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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Nooks and Corners of Old England, by Allan Fea
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Nooks and Corners of Old England
+
+Author: Allan Fea
+
+Release Date: September 11, 2012 [EBook #39685]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD ENGLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Annie McGuire. This book was produced from
+scanned images of public domain material from the Google
+Print archive.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Book Cover]
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS AND CORNERS
+OF OLD ENGLAND
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Queen Eleanor's Cross
+at Geddington]
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS AND CORNERS
+OF OLD ENGLAND
+
+
+BY
+
+ALLAN FEA
+
+AUTHOR OF
+"SECRET CHAMBERS AND HIDING PLACES" "PICTURESQUE OLD HOUSES"
+"FLIGHT OF THE KING" ETC.
+
+
+WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
+BY THE AUTHOR
+
+
+NEW YORK
+CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
+1908
+
+
+
+
+TO
+MY OLD FRIEND
+SEYMOUR LUCAS, R.A., F.S.A.
+THIS BOOK
+IS AFFECTIONATELY
+INSCRIBED
+
+
+
+
+A recent glance over some old Ordnance Maps, the companions of many a
+ramble in the corners of Old England, has suggested the idea of jotting
+down a few fragmentary notes, which we trust may be of interest.
+
+Upon a former occasion we wandered with pencil and camera haphazard off
+the beaten track mainly in the counties surrounding the great
+Metropolis; and though there are several tempting "Nooks" still near at
+hand, we have now extended our range of exploration.
+
+We only trust the reader will derive a little of the pleasure we have
+found in compiling this little volume.
+
+  A. F.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+  NOOKS IN HUNTINGDONSHIRE AND NORTH NORTHANTS                         1
+  SOME SUFFOLK NOOKS                                                  22
+  NOOKS IN NORFOLK                                                    40
+  NOOKS IN WARWICKSHIRE AND BORDERLAND                                59
+  SOME NOOKS IN WORCESTERSHIRE AND GLOUCESTERSHIRE                    78
+  NOOKS IN NORTHERN WILTSHIRE                                        102
+  EASTERN AND SOUTHERN SOMERSET                                      123
+  IN WESTERN SOMERSET                                                147
+  IN DEVON AND DORSET                                                162
+  HERE AND THERE IN SALOP AND STAFFORDSHIRE                          181
+  IN NORTHERN DERBYSHIRE                                             200
+  NOOKS IN YORKSHIRE                                                 225
+  INDEX                                                              269
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+  QUEEN ELEANOR'S CROSS AT GEDDINGTON                     _Frontispiece_
+  THE BELL, STILTON                                      _Facing page_ 8
+  KIRBY HALL                                                          18
+  WOTHORPE MANOR-HOUSE                                                18
+  DOORWAY, KIRBY HALL                                                 20
+  GATEWAY, KIRBY HALL                                                 20
+  ERWARTON HALL                                                       36
+  WALSINGHAM                                                          42
+  WALSINGHAM                                                          42
+  EAST BARSHAM MANOR                                                  44
+  FONT CANOPY, TRUNCH                                                 44
+  WYMONDHAM                                                           52
+  HAUTBOYS HALL                                                       52
+  CHASTLETON                                                          64
+  PIRTON COURT                                                        80
+  THE WHITE HOUSE, PIXHAM                                             80
+  SEVERN END                                                          82
+  SEVERN END                                                          82
+  RIPPLE                                                              86
+  STANTON                                                             86
+  STANWAY HOUSE                                                       90
+  STANWAY HOUSE                                                       90
+  POSTLIP HALL                                                        98
+  STOCKS, PAINSWICK                                                   98
+  NAILSWORTH                                                         100
+  BEVERSTONE CASTLE                                                  100
+  GATE-HOUSE, SPYE PARK                                              104
+  LACOCK                                                             104
+  LACOCK                                                             106
+  BEWLEY COURT                                                       106
+  LACOCK                                                             108
+  LACOCK ABBY                                                        108
+  CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE                                                  112
+  CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE                                                  112
+  CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE                                                  114
+  CASTLE COMBE                                                       114
+  YATTON KEYNELL MANOR                                               116
+  BULLICH MANOR-HOUSE                                                116
+  SHELDON MANOR                                                      118
+  SHELDON MANOR                                                      118
+  SOUTH WRAXALL MANOR-HOUSE                                          120
+  SOUTH WRAXALL MANOR-HOUSE                                          120
+  THE GEORGE, NORTON ST. PHILIP                                      124
+  THE GEORGE, NORTON ST. PHILIP                                      124
+  CHARTERHOUSE HINTON                                                128
+  WELLOW MANOR-HOUSE                                                 128
+  OLD HOUSE NEAR CROSCOMBE                                           130
+  BECKINGTON CASTLE                                                  130
+  CROSCOMBE CHURCH                                                   132
+  CROSCOMBE                                                          132
+  LYTES CARY MANOR-HOUSE                                             134
+  LYTES CARY MANOR-HOUSE                                             134
+  ANCIENT SCREEN, CURRY RIVEL CHURCH                                 136
+  FIREPLACE, LYTES CARY                                              136
+  BARRINGTON COURT                                                   138
+  HINTON ST. GEORGE                                                  140
+  SANDFORD ORCAS MANOR-HOUSE                                         140
+  MONTACUTE HOUSE                                                    144
+  MONTACUTE PRIORY                                                   144
+  CROWCOMBE                                                          148
+  OLD HOUSE, CROWCOMBE                                               148
+  COMBE SYDENHAM                                                     152
+  COMBE SYDENHAM                                                     152
+  CROWCOMBE CHURCH                                                   156
+  DUNSTER                                                            156
+  BINDON                                                             168
+  BINDON                                                             168
+  WYLDE COURT                                                        170
+  THE GOLDEN LION, BARNSTAPLE                                        170
+  MAPPERTON MANOR-HOUSE                                              172
+  MELPLASH COURT                                                     172
+  WATERSTONE                                                         174
+  ATHELHAMPTON                                                       174
+  ATHELHAMPTON                                                       176
+  ATHELHAMPTON                                                       176
+  MONMOUTH'S TREE                                                    178
+  SERVANTS' HALL, CHIRK CASTLE                                       182
+  SERVANTS' HALL, CHIRK CASTLE                                       184
+  MARKET DRAYTON                                                     190
+  MARKET DRAYTON                                                     190
+  BLACKLADIES                                                        198
+  GREAT HALL, HADDON                                                 202
+  GREAT HALL, HADDON                                                 202
+  COURTYARD, HADDON                                                  204
+  DRAWING-ROOM, HADDON                                               204
+  WITHDRAWING-ROOM, HADDON                                           206
+  WITHDRAWING-ROOM, HADDON                                           206
+  DOORWAY, HADDON                                                    208
+  INTERIOR COURTYARD, HADDON                                         208
+  GREAT HALL, HADDON                                                 212
+  HARDWICK HALL                                                      212
+  GARLANDS, ASHFORD CHURCH                                           220
+  GATEWAY, KNOWSTHORPE HALL                                          240
+  TOMB, DARFIELD CHURCH                                              240
+  LEATHLEY STOCKS                                                    244
+  STOCKS AT WESTON                                                   244
+  MIDDLEHAM CASTLE                                                   252
+  SWINSTY HALL                                                       252
+  QUEEN'S GAP, LEYBURN "SHAWL"                                       254
+  BELLERBY OLD HALL                                                  256
+  BOLTON CASTLE                                                      256
+  ASKRIGG                                                            260
+  NAPPA HALL                                                         260
+  RICHMOND                                                           266
+  EASBY ABBEY                                                        266
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS IN HUNTINGDONSHIRE
+AND NORTH NORTHANTS
+
+
+At Huntingdon we are on familiar ground with Samuel Pepys. When he
+journeyed northwards to visit his parental house or to pay his respects
+to Lord Sandwich's family at Hinchinbrooke, he usually found suitable
+accommodation at "Goody Gorums" and "Mother" somebody else who lived
+over against the "Crown." Neither the famous posting-house the "George"
+nor the "Falcon" are mentioned in the _Diary_, but he speaks of the
+"Chequers"; however, the change of names of ancient hostelries is
+common, so in picturing the susceptible Clerk of the Admiralty chucking
+a pretty chambermaid under the chin in the old galleried yard of the
+"George," we may not be far out of our reckoning.
+
+But altogether the old George Inn is somewhat disappointing. Its
+balustraded galleries are there sure enough, with the queer old
+staircase leading up to them in one of the corners; but it has the same
+burnished-up appearance of the courtyard of the Leicester Hospital at
+Warwick. How much more pleasing both would strike the eye were there
+less paint and varnish. The Inn has been refronted, and from the street
+has quite a modern appearance.
+
+Huntingdon recalls the sterner name of Cromwell. Strange that this
+county, so proud of the Lord Protector (for has it not recently set up a
+gorgeous statue at St. Ives to his memory?), should still harbour
+red-hot Jacobites! According to _The Legitimist Calendar_, mysterious
+but harmless meetings are still held hereabouts on Oak Apple Day: a day
+elsewhere all but forgotten. Huntingdon was the headquarters of the
+Royalist army certainly upon many occasions, and when evil days fell
+upon the "Martyr King," some of his staunchest friends were here
+secretly working for his welfare.[1] When Charles passed through the
+town in 1644, the mayor, loyal to the back-bone, had prepared a speech
+to outrival the flowery welcome of his fellow-magistrates: "Although
+Rome's Hens," he said, "should daily hatch of its preposterous eggs,
+chrocodilicall chickens, yet under the Shield of Faith, by you our most
+Royal Sovereigne defended and by the King of Heavens as I stand and your
+most medicable councell, would we not be fearful to withstand them."[2]
+Though the sentence is somewhat involved, the worthy magnate doubtless
+meant well.
+
+It was the custom, by the way, so Evelyn tells us, when a monarch passed
+through Huntingdon, to meet him with a hundred ploughs as a symbol of
+the fruitful soil: the county indeed at one time was rich in vines and
+hops, and has been described by old writers as the garden of England.
+Still here as elsewhere the farmers' outlook is a poor one to-day,
+although there are, of course, exceptions.
+
+At historic Hinchinbrooke (on June 4, 1647), King Charles slept the
+first night after he was removed from Holdenby House by Cornet Joyce:
+the first stage of his _progress_ to the scaffold. In the grounds of the
+old mansion, the monarch, when Prince of Wales, and little Oliver played
+together, for the owner in those days of the ancient seat of the
+Montagues and Cromwells was the future Protector's uncle and godfather.
+Upon one occasion the boys had a stand-up fight, and the commoner, the
+senior by only one year, made his royal adversary's nose bleed,--an
+augury for fatal events to follow. The story is told how little Oliver
+fell into the Ouse and was fished out by a Royalist piscatorial parson.
+Years afterwards, when the Protector revisited the scenes of his youth
+in the midst of his triumphant army, he encountered his rescuer, and
+asked him whether he remembered the occurrence.
+
+"Truly do I," was the prompt reply; "and the Lord forgive me, but I wish
+I'd let thee drown."
+
+The Montagues became possessed of the estate in 1627. Pepys speaks of
+"the brave rooms and good pictures," which pleased him better than those
+at Audley End. The Diarist's parental house remains at Brampton, a
+little to the west of Huntingdon. In characteristic style he records a
+visit there in October 1667: "So away for Huntingdon mightily pleased
+all along the road to remember old stories, and come to Brampton at
+about noon, and there found my father and sister and brother all well:
+and here laid up our things, and up and down to see the gardens with my
+father, and the house; and do altogether find it very pretty, especially
+the little parlour and the summer-houses in the garden, only the wall do
+want greens up it, and the house is too low roofed; but that is only
+because of my coming from a house with higher ceilings."
+
+Before turning our steps northwards, let us glance at the mediæval
+bridge that spans the river Ouse, to Godmanchester, which is referred to
+by the thirteenth-century historian _Henry of Huntingdon_ as "a noble
+city." But its nobility has long since departed, and some modern
+monstrosities in architecture make the old Tudor buildings which
+remain, blush for such brazen-faced obtrusion. Its ancient water-mill
+externally looks so dilapidated, that one would think the next
+"well-formed depression" from America would blow it to atoms. Not a bit
+of it. Its huge timber beams within, smile at such fears. It is a
+veritable fortress of timber. But although this solid wooden structure
+defies the worst of gales, there are rumours of coming electric
+tramways, and then, alas! the old mill will bow a dignified departure,
+and the curfew, which yet survives, will then also perhaps think it is
+time to be gone.
+
+At Little Stukeley, on the Great North Road some three miles above
+Huntingdon, is a queer old inn, the "Swan and Salmon," bearing upon its
+sign the date 1676. It is a good example of the brickwork of the latter
+half of the seventeenth century. Like many another ancient hostelry on
+the road to York, it is associated with Dick Turpin's exploits; and to
+give colour to the tradition, mine host can point at a little masked
+hiding-place situated somewhere at the back of the sign up in its gable
+end. It certainly looks the sort of place that could relate stories of
+highwaymen; a roomy old building, which no doubt in its day had
+trap-doors and exits innumerable for the convenience of the gentlemen of
+the road.
+
+A little off the ancient "Ermine Street," to the north-west of Stukeley,
+is the insignificant village of Coppingford, historically interesting
+from the fact that when Charles I. fled from Oxford in disguise in 1646,
+he stopped the night there at a little obscure cottage or alehouse, on
+his way to seek protection of the Scots at Southwell. "This day one
+hundred years ago," writes Dr. Stukeley in his _Memoirs_ on May 3, 1746,
+"King Charles, Mr. John Ashburnham, and Dr. Hudson came from Coppingford
+in Huntingdonshire and lay at Mr. Alderman Wolph's house, now mine, on
+Barn Hill; all the day obscure." Hudson, from whom Sir Walter drew his
+character of Dr. Rochecliffe in _Woodstock_, records the fact in the
+following words: "We lay at Copingforde in Huntingdonshire one Sunday, 3
+May; wente not to church, but I read prayers to the King; and at six at
+night he went to Stamforde. I writte from Copingforde to Mr. Skipwith
+for a horse, and he sente me one, which was brought to me at Stamforde.
+---- at Copingforde the King and me, with my hoste and hostis and two
+children, were by the fire in the hall. There was noe other chimney in
+the house."[3] The village of Little Gidding, still farther to the
+north-west, had often before been visited by Charles in connection with
+a religious establishment that had been founded there by the Ferrar
+family. A curious old silk coffer, which was given by Charles to the
+nieces of the founder, Nicholas Ferrar, upon one of these occasions,
+some years ago came into the possession of our late queen, and is still
+preserved at Windsor.
+
+A few miles to the north-east is Glatton, another remote village where
+old May-day customs yet linger. There are some quaint superstitions in
+the rural districts hereabouts. A favourite remedy for infectious
+disease is to open the window of the sickroom not so much to let in the
+fresh air as to admit the gnats, which are believed to fly away with the
+malady and die. The beneficial result is never attributed to oxygen!
+
+The Roman road (if, indeed, it is the same, for some authorities incline
+to the opinion that it ran parallel at some little distance away) is
+unpicturesque and dreary. Towering double telegraph poles recur at set
+intervals with mathematical regularity, and the breeze playing upon the
+wires aloft brings forth that long-drawn melancholy wail only to make
+the monotony more depressing. Half a mile from the main road, almost due
+east of Glatton, stands Connington Hall, where linger sad memories of
+the fate of Mary Queen of Scots. When the castle of Fotheringay was
+demolished in 1625, Sir Robert Cotton had the great Hall in which she
+was beheaded removed here. The curious carved oak chair which was used
+by the poor Queen at Fotheringay until the day of her death may now be
+seen in Connington Church, where also is the Tomb of Sir Robert, the
+founder of the famous Cottonian Library.
+
+[Illustration: THE BELL, STILTON]
+
+A couple of miles or so to the north is Stilton, which bears an air of
+decayed importance. A time-mellowed red-brick Queen Anne house, whose
+huge wooden supports, like cripples' crutches, keep it from toppling
+over, comes first in sight. In striking contrast, with its formal style
+of architecture, is the picturesque outline of the ancient inn beyond. A
+complicated flourish of ornamental ironwork, that would exasperate the
+most expert freehand draughtsman, supports the weather-beaten sign of
+solid copper. Upon the right-hand gable stands the date 1642, bringing
+with it visions of the coming struggle between King and Parliament. But
+the date is misleading, as may be seen from the stone groining upon the
+adjoining masonry. The main building was certainly erected quite a
+century earlier. Here and there modern windows have been inserted in
+place of the Tudor mullioned ones, as also have later doorways, for part
+of the building is now occupied as tenements. The archway leading into
+the courtyard has also been somewhat modernised, as may be judged from
+the corresponding internal arch, with its original curved dripstone
+above.
+
+We came upon this inn, tramping northwards in a bitter day in March.
+It looked homely and inviting, the waning sunlight tinting the stonework
+and lighting up the window casements. Enthusiastic with pleasing
+imaginings of panelled chambers and ghostly echoing corridors, we
+entered only to have our dreams speedily dispersed. In vain we sought
+for such a "best room" as greeted Mr. Chester at the "Maypole." There
+were no rich rustling hangings here, nor oaken screens enriched with
+grotesque carvings. Alas! not even a cheery fire of fagots. Nor, indeed,
+was there a bed to rest our weary bones upon. Spring cleaning was
+rampant, and the merciless east wind sweeping along the bare passages
+made one shudder more than usual at the thought of that terrible annual
+necessity (but the glory of energetic house-wives). But surely mine
+hostess of the good old days would have scrupled to thrust the traveller
+from her door: moreover to a house of refreshment, or rather
+eating-house, a stone's-throw off, uncomfortably near that rickety
+propped-up red-brick residence.
+
+With visions of the smoking bowl and lavender-scented sheets dashed to
+the ground, we turned away. But, lo! and behold a good _angel_ had come
+to the rescue. So absorbed had we been with the possibilities of the
+"Bell" that the "Angel" opposite had quite been overlooked. This rival
+inn of Georgian date furnished us with cosy quarters. From our
+flower-bedecked window the whole front of the old "Bell" could be
+leisurely studied in all its varying stages of light and shade--an inn
+with a past; an object-lesson for the philosopher to ruminate upon. Yes,
+in its day one can picture scenes of lavish, shall we say Ainsworthian
+hospitality. There is a smack of huge venison pasties, fatted capons,
+and of roasted peacocks about this hoary hostel. And its stables; one
+has but to stroll up an adjacent lane to get some idea of the once vast
+extent of its outbuildings. The ground they covered must have occupied
+nearly half the village. Here was stabling for over eighty horses, and
+before the birth of trains, thirty-six coaches pulled up daily at the
+portal for hungry passengers to refresh or rest.
+
+The famous cheese, by the way, was first sold at this inn; but why it
+was dubbed Stilton instead of Dalby in Leicestershire, where it was
+first manufactured, is a mystery. Like its _vis-à-vis_, the "Angel" is
+far different from what it was in its flourishing days. The main
+building is now occupied for other purposes, and its dignity has long
+since departed. To-day Stilton looks on its last legs. The goggled
+motor-fiend sweeps by to Huntingdon or Peterborough while Stilton rubs
+its sleepy eyes. But who can tell but that its fortunes may yet revive.
+Was not Broadway dying a natural death when Jonathan, who invariably
+tells us what treasures we possess, stepped in and made it popular? Some
+enterprising landlord might do worse than take the old "Bell" in hand
+and ring it to a profitable tune. But judging by appearances, visitors
+to-day, at least in March, are few and far between.
+
+Half the charm of Stilton lies in the fact that there is no hurry. It is
+quite refreshing in these days of rush. For instance, you want to catch
+a train at Peterborough,--at least we did, for that was the handiest way
+of reaching Oundle, some seven miles to the west of Stilton as the crow
+flies. Sitting on thorns, we awaited the convenience of the horse as to
+whether his accustomed jog-trot would enable us to catch our train. We
+_did_ catch it truly, but the anxiety was a terrible experience.
+
+Oundle is full of old inns. The "Turk's Head," facing the church, is a
+fine and compact specimen of Jacobean architecture. It was a brilliant
+morning when we stood in the churchyard looking up at the
+ball-surmounted gables standing out in bold relief against the clear
+blue sky, while the caw of a colony of rooks sailing overhead seemed
+quite in harmony with the old-world surroundings.
+
+More important and flourishing is the "Talbot," which looks
+self-conscious of the fact that in its walls are incorporated some of
+the remains of no less historic a building than Fotheringay Castle,
+whose moat and fragmentary walls are to be seen some three and a half
+miles to the north of the town. The fortress, with its sad and tragic
+memories of Mary Queen of Scots, was demolished after James came to the
+throne, and its fine oak staircase, by repute the same by which she
+descended to the scaffold, was re-erected in the "Talbot." The courtyard
+is picturesque. The old windows which light the staircase, which also
+are said to have come from Fotheringay, are angular at the base, and
+have an odd and pleasing appearance.
+
+Two ancient almshouses, with imposing entrance gates, are well worth
+inspection. There is a graceful little pinnacle surmounting one of the
+gable ends, at which we were curiously gazing when one of the aged
+inmates came out in alarm to see if the chimney was on fire.
+
+Fotheringay church, with its lantern tower and flying buttresses, is
+picturesquely situated close to the river Nene, and with the bridge
+makes a charming picture. The older bridge of Queen Mary's time was
+angular, with square arches, as may be seen from a print of the early
+part of the eighteenth century. In this is shown the same scanty remains
+of the historic Castle: a wall with a couple of Gothic doorways, all
+that survived of the formidable fortress that was the unfortunate
+queen's last prison-house. As at Cumnor, where poor Amy Robsart was
+done to death in a manner which certainly Elizabeth hinted at regarding
+her troublesome cousin, there is little beyond the foundations from
+which to form an idea of the building. It was divided by a double moat,
+which is still to be seen, as well as the natural earthwork upon which
+the keep stood. The queen's apartments, that towards the end were
+stripped of all emblems of royalty, were situated above and to the south
+of the great hall, into which she had to descend by a staircase to the
+scaffold. Some ancient thorn trees now flourish upon the spot. The
+historian Fuller, who visited the castle prior to its demolition, found
+the following lines from an old ballad scratched with a diamond upon a
+window-pane of Mary's prison-chamber:
+
+  "From the top of all my trust
+  Mishap hath laid me in the dust."
+
+Though Mary's mock trial took place at Fotheringay in the "Presence
+Chamber," she was actually condemned in the Star Chamber at Westminster;
+and it may here be stated that that fine old room may yet be seen not
+very many miles away, at Wormleighton, near the Northamptonshire border
+of south-east Warwickshire. A farmhouse near Fotheringay is still
+pointed out where the executioner lodged the night before the deed; and
+some claim this distinction for the ancient inn in which are
+incorporated some remains of the castle.
+
+As is known, the Queen of Scots' body was buried first in Peterborough
+Cathedral, whence it was removed to Westminster Abbey. There is a
+superstition in Northamptonshire that if a body after interment be
+removed, it bodes misfortune to the surviving members of the family.
+This was pointed out at the time to James I.; but superstitious as he
+was, he did not alter his plans, and the death of Prince Henry shortly
+afterwards seemed to confirm this belief.[4]
+
+But there are other memories of famous names in history, for the head of
+the White Rose family, Richard of York, was buried in the church, and
+his duchess, Cecilia Neville, as well as Edward of York, whose death at
+Agincourt is immortalised by Shakespeare. When the older church was
+dismantled and the bodies removed to their present destination, a silver
+ribbon was discovered round the Duchess Cecilia's neck upon which a
+pardon from Rome was clearly written. The windows of the church once
+were rich in painted glass; and at the fine fifteenth-century font it is
+conjectured Richard III. was baptized, for he was born at the Castle.
+Crookback's badge, the boar, may still be seen in the church, and the
+Yorkist falcon and fetterlock are displayed on the summit of the vane
+upon the tower. Also some carved stalls, which came from here, in the
+churches of Tansor and Hemington to the south of Fotheringay, bear the
+regal badges and crest. The falcon and the fetterlock also occur in the
+monuments to the Dukes of York, which were rebuilt by Queen Elizabeth
+when the older tombs had fallen to decay. The allegiance to the
+fascinating Queen of Scots is far from dead, for in February 1902, and
+doubtless more recently, a gentleman journeyed specially from Edinburgh
+to Fotheringay to place a tribute to her martyrdom in the form of a
+large cross of immortelles bearing the Scots crown and Mary's monogram,
+and a black bordered white silk sash attached.
+
+A few miles to the west of this historic spot are the fine Tudor houses
+Deene and Kirby: the former still a palatial residence; the latter,
+alas! a ruin fast falling to decay. Deene, with its battlemented towers
+and turrets and buttressed walls, is a noble-looking structure, with
+numerous shields of arms and heraldic devices carved upon the masonry.
+These are of the great families, Brudenel, Montagu, Bruce, Bulstrode,
+etc., whose intermarriages are emblazoned in painted glass in the top of
+the mullioned windows of the hall. Sir Thomas Brudenel, the first Earl
+of Cardigan, who died three years after the Restoration, was a typical
+old cavalier after the style of Sir Henry Lee in _Woodstock_; and in
+the manor are preserved many of his manuscripts written during his
+twenty years' confinement in the Tower. In the great hall there is a
+blocked-up entrance to a subterranean passage running towards Kirby, and
+through this secret despatches are said to have been carried in the time
+of the Civil War; and at the back of a fireplace in the same apartment
+is a hiding-place sufficiently large to contain a score of people
+standing up. One of the rooms is called Henry VII.'s room, as that
+monarch when Earl of Richmond is said to have ridden from Bosworth Field
+to seek refuge at Deene, then a monastery.
+
+[Illustration: WOTHORPE MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+Among the numerous portraits are the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was slain
+by the second Duke of Buckingham in the notorious duel, and his wife
+Lady Anne Brudenel, who was daughter of the second Earl of Cardigan.
+Some time before the poor plain little duchess suspected that she had a
+formidable rival in the beautiful countess, she was returning from a
+visit to Deene to her house near Stamford, where her reckless husband
+just then found it convenient to hide himself, as a warrant for high
+treason was out against him, when she noticed a suspicious little
+cavalcade travelling in the same direction. Ordering the horses to be
+whipped up, she arrived in time to give the alarm. The duke had just set
+out for Burleigh House with some ladies in his company, and, says
+Clarendon, the sergeant "made so good haste that he was in view of the
+coach, and saw the duke alight out of the coach and lead a lady into the
+house, upon which the door of the court was shut before he could get to
+it. He knocked loudly at that and other doors that were all shut, so
+that he could not get into the house though it were some hours before
+sunset in the month of May."[5] Pepys was strolling in the park and met
+Sergeant Bearcroft "who was sent for the Duke of Buckingham, to have
+brought his prisoner to the Tower. He come to towne this day and brings
+word that being overtaken and outrid by the Duchesse of Buckingham
+within a few miles of the duke's house of Westhorp, he believes she got
+thither about a quarter of an hour before him, and so had time to
+consider; so that when he came, the doors were kept shut against him.
+The next day, coming with officers of the neighbour market-town
+[Stamford] to force open the doors, they were open for him, but the duke
+gone, so he took horse presently and heard upon the road that the Duke
+of Buckingham was gone before him for London. So that he believes he is
+this day also come to towne before him; but no newes is yet heard of
+him."[6] Many blunders have been made in reference to the duke's house
+of "Westhorp." Some have called it "Owthorp" and others "Westhorpe" in
+Suffolk, the demolished mansion of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. The
+place referred to is really Wothorpe manor-house, the remains of which
+stand some two miles to the south of Stamford and ten to the north of
+Deene. The existing portion consists of four towers, the lower part of
+which is square and the upper octagonal, presumably having been at one
+time surmounted by cupolas. The windows are long and narrow, having only
+one mullion running parallel across. Beneath the moulding of the summit
+of each tower are circular loopholes. It is evidently of Elizabethan
+date, but much of the ornamental detail is lost in the heavy mantle of
+ivy and the trees which encircle it.
+
+[Illustration: KIRBY HALL.]
+
+That that stately Elizabethan mansion, Kirby Hall (which is close to
+Deene), should ever have been allowed to fall to ruin is most
+regrettable and deplorable. It was one of John Thorpe's masterpieces,
+the architect of palatial Burleigh, of Holland House and Audley End, and
+other famous historic houses. He laid the foundation-stone in 1570, and
+that other great master Inigo Jones made additions in the reign of
+Charles I. The founder of Kirby was Sir Christopher Hatton, who is said
+to have first danced into the virgin queen's favour at a masque at
+Court. The Earl of Leicester probably first was famous in this way, if
+we may judge from the quaint painting at Penshurst, where he is bounding
+her several feet into the air; but was not so accomplished as Sir
+Christopher, who in his official robes of Lord Chancellor danced in the
+Hall of the Inner Temple with the seals and mace of his office before
+him, an undignified proceeding, reminding one of the scene in one of the
+Gilbert and Sullivan operas.
+
+[Illustration: DOORWAY, KIRBY HALL.]
+
+[Illustration: GATEWAY, KIRBY HALL.]
+
+Kirby must have been magnificent in its day; and when we consider that
+it was in occupation by the Chancellor's descendant, the Earl of
+Winchelsea, in 1830 or even later, one may judge by seeing it how
+rapidly a neglected building can fall into decay. Even in our own memory
+a matter of twenty years has played considerable havoc, and cleared off
+half the roof. Standing in the deserted weed-grown courtyard, one cannot
+but grieve to see the widespread destruction of such beautiful
+workmanship. The graceful fluted Ionic pilasters that intersect the
+lofty mullioned windows are falling to pieces bit by bit, and the
+fantastic stone pinnacles above and on the carved gable ends are
+disappearing one by one. But much of the glass is still in the windows,
+and some of the rooms are not all yet open to the weather, and the great
+hall and music gallery and the "Library" with fine bay window are both
+in a fair state of preservation. Is it yet too much to hope that pity
+may be taken upon what is undoubtedly one of the finest Elizabethan
+houses in England? The north part of the Inner Court is represented in
+S. E. Waller's pathetic picture "The Day of Reckoning," which has been
+engraved.
+
+Some three miles to the south of Kirby is the village of Corby, famous
+for its surrounding woods, and a curious custom called the "Poll Fair,"
+which takes place every twenty years. Should a stranger happen to be
+passing through the village when the date falls due, he is liable to be
+captured and carried on a pole to the stocks, which ancient instrument
+of punishment is there, and put to use on these occasions. He may
+purchase his liberty by handing over any coin he happens to have. It
+certainly is a rather eccentric way of commemorating the charter granted
+by Elizabeth and confirmed by Charles II. by which the residents (all of
+whom are subjected to similar treatment) are exempt from market tolls
+and jury service.
+
+A pair of stocks stood formerly at the foot of the steps of the graceful
+Eleanor Cross at Geddington to the south of Corby. Of the three
+remaining memorials said to have been erected by Edward I. at every
+place where the coffin of his queen rested on its way from Hardeby in
+Lincolnshire to Westminster Abbey, Geddington Cross is by far the most
+graceful and in the best condition. The other two are at Waltham and
+Northampton. Originally there were fifteen Eleanor crosses, including
+Hardeby, Lincoln, Stony Stratford, Woburn, Dunstable, St. Albans,
+Cheapside, and Charing Cross. The last two, the most elaborate of all,
+as is known, were destroyed by order of Lord Mayor Pennington in 1643
+and 1647, accompanied by the blast of trumpets.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] _See Memoirs of the Martyr King._
+
+[2] _Evelyn's Diary_, vol. iv. p. 134, 1870 ed.
+
+[3] See _Memoirs of the Martyr King_, p. 73.
+
+[4] See _Turner's History of Remarkable Providences_, 1677.
+
+[5] _Continuation of the Life of Lord Clarendon._
+
+[6] _Diary_, 3 March 1666-67.
+
+
+
+
+SOME SUFFOLK NOOKS
+
+
+The idea of calling pretty little Mildenhall in north-west Suffolk a
+town, seems out of place. It is snug and sleepy and prosperous-looking,
+an inviting nook to forget the noise and bustle of a town in the
+ordinary sense of the word. May it long continue so, and may the day be
+long distant when that terrible invention, the electric tram, is
+introduced to spoil the peace and harmony. Mildenhall is one of those
+old-world places where one may be pretty sure in entering the snug old
+courtyard of its ancient inn, that one will be treated rather as a
+friend than a traveller. Facing the "Bell" is the church, remarkable for
+the unique tracery of its early-English eastern window, and for its
+exceptionally fine open hammer-beam carved oak roof, with bold carved
+spandrels and large figures of angels with extended wings, and the
+badges of Henry V., the swan and antelope, displayed in the south aisle.
+
+In a corner of the little market-square is a curious hexagonal timber
+market-cross of this monarch's time, roofed with slabs of lead set
+diagonally, and adding to the picturesque effect. The centre part runs
+through the roof to a considerable height, and is surmounted by a
+weather-cock. Standing beneath the low-pitched roof, one may get a good
+idea of the massiveness of construction of these old Gothic structures;
+an object-lesson to the jerry builder of to-day. The oaken supports are
+relieved with graceful mouldings.
+
+Within bow-shot of the market-cross is the gabled Jacobean manor-house
+of the Bunburys, a weather-worn wing of which abuts upon the street. The
+family name recalls associations with the beautiful sisters whom
+Goldsmith dubbed "Little Comedy" and the "Jessamy Bride." The original
+"Sir Joshua" of these ladies may be seen at Barton Hall, another seat of
+the Bunburys a few miles away, where they played good-natured practical
+jokes upon their friend the poet. In a room of the Mildenhall mansion
+hangs a portrait of a less beautiful woman, but sufficiently attractive
+to meet with the approval of a critical connoisseur. When the Merry
+Monarch took unto himself a wife, this portrait of the little Portuguese
+woman was sent for him to see; and presumably it was flattering, for
+when Catherine arrived in person, his Majesty was uncivil enough to
+inquire whether they had sent him a bat instead of a woman.
+
+A delightful walk by shady lanes and cornfields, and along the banks of
+the river Lark, leads to another fine old house, Wamil Hall, a portion
+only of the original structure; but it would be difficult to find a more
+pleasing picture than is formed by the remaining wing. It is a typical
+manor-house, with ball-surmounted gables, massive mullioned windows, and
+a fine Elizabethan gateway in the lofty garden wall, partly ivy-grown,
+and with the delicate greys and greens of lichens upon the old stone
+masonry.
+
+In a south-easterly direction from Mildenhall there is charming open
+heathy country nearly all the way to West Stow Hall, some seven or eight
+miles away. The remains of this curious old structure consist
+principally of the gatehouse, octagonal red-brick towers surmounted by
+ornamental cupolas with a pinnacled step-gable in the centre and the
+arms of Mary of France beneath it, and ornamental Tudor brickwork above
+the entrance. The passage leading from this entrance to the main
+structure consists of an open arcade, and the upper portion and
+adjoining wing are of half-timber construction. This until recently has
+been cased over in plaster; but the towers having become unsafe, some
+restorations have been absolutely necessary, the result of which is that
+the plaster is being stripped off, revealing the worn red-brick and
+carved oak beams beneath. Moreover, the moat, long since filled up, is
+to be reinstated, and, thanks to the noble owner, Lord Cadogan, all its
+original features will be most carefully brought to light. In a room
+above are some black outline fresco paintings of figures in Elizabethan
+costume, suggestive of four of the seven ages of man. Most conspicuous
+is the lover paying very marked attentions to a damsel who may or may
+not represent Henry VIII.'s sister at the time of her courtship by the
+valiant Brandon, Duke of Suffolk; anyway the house was built by Sir John
+Crofts, who belonged to the queen-dowager's household, and he may have
+wished to immortalise that romantic attachment. A gentleman with a
+parrot-like hawk upon his wrist says by an inscription, "Thus do I all
+the day"; while the lover observes, "Thus do I while I may." A third
+person, presumably getting on in years, says with a sigh, "Thus did I
+while I might"; and he of the "slippered pantaloon" age groans, "Good
+Lord, will this world last for ever!" In a room adjoining, we were told,
+Queen Elizabeth slept during one of her progresses through the country,
+or maybe it was Mary Tudor who came to see Sir John; but the "White
+Lady" who issues from one of the rooms in the main building at 12
+o'clock p.m. so far has not been identified.
+
+In his lordship's stables close by we had the privilege of seeing "a
+racer" who had won sixteen or more "seconds," as well as a budding Derby
+winner of the future. Culford is a stately house in a very trim and
+well-cared-for park. It looks quite modern, but the older mansion has
+been incorporated with it. In Charles II.'s day his Majesty paid
+occasional visits to Culford _en route_ from Euston Hall to Newmarket,
+and Pepys records an incident there which was little to his host's
+(Lord Cornwallis') credit. The rector's daughter, a pretty girl, was
+introduced to the king, whose unwelcome attentions caused her to make a
+precipitate escape, and, leaping from some height, she killed herself,
+"which, if true," says Pepys, "is very sad." Certainly Charles does not
+show to advantage in Suffolk. The Diarist himself saw him at Little
+Saxham Hall[7] (to the south-west of Culford), the seat of Lord Crofts,
+going to bed, after a heavy drinking bout with his boon companions
+Sedley, Buckhurst, and Bab May.
+
+The church is in the main modern, but there is a fine tomb of Lady
+Bacon, who is represented life-size nursing her youngest child, while on
+either side in formal array stand her other five children. Her husband
+is reclining full length at her feet.
+
+Hengrave Hall, one of the finest Tudor mansions in England, is close to
+Culford. Shorn of its ancient furniture and pictures (for, alas! a few
+years ago there was a great sale here), the house is still of
+considerable interest; but the absence of colour--its staring whiteness
+and bare appearance--on the whole is disappointing, and compared with
+less architecturally fine houses, such as Kentwell or Rushbrooke, it is
+inferior from a picturesque point of view. Still the outline of gables
+and turreted chimneys is exceptionally fine and stately. It was built
+between the years 1525 and 1538. The gatehouse has remarkable
+mitre-headed turrets, and a triple bay-window bearing the royal arms of
+France and England quarterly, supported by a lion and a dragon. The
+entrance is flanked on either side by an ornamental pillar similar in
+character to the turrets. The house was formerly moated and had a
+drawbridge, as at Helmingham in this county. These were done away with
+towards the end of the eighteenth century, when a great part of the
+original building was demolished and the interior entirely
+reconstructed. The rooms included the "Queen's Chamber," where Elizabeth
+slept when she was entertained here after the lavish style at Kenilworth
+in 1578, by Sir Thomas Kytson. From the Kitsons, Hengrave came to the
+Darcys and Gages.
+
+In the vicinity of Bury there are many fine old houses, but for
+historical interest none so interesting as Rushbrooke Hall, which stands
+about the same distance from the town as Hengrave in the opposite
+direction, namely, to the south-west. It is an Elizabethan house, with
+corner octagonal turrets to which many alterations were made in the next
+century: the windows, porch, etc., being of Jacobean architecture. It is
+moated, with an array of old stone piers in front, upon which the
+silvery green lichen stands out in harmonious contrast with the rich
+purple red of the Tudor brickwork. The old mansion is full of Stuart
+memories. Here lived the old cavalier Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans,
+who owed his advancement to Queen Henrietta Maria, to whom he acted as
+secretary during the Civil War, and to whom he was privately married
+when she became a widow and lived in Paris. He was a handsome man, as
+may be judged from his full-length portrait here by Vandyck, though he
+is said to have been somewhat ungainly. In the "State drawing-room,"
+where the maiden queen held Court when she visited the earl's ancestor
+Sir Robert Jermyn in 1578, may be seen two fine inlaid cabinets of wood
+set with silver, bearing the monogram of Henrietta Maria. Jermyn
+survived his royal wife the dowager-queen over fourteen years. Evelyn
+saw him a few months before he died. "Met My Lord St. Albans," he says,
+"now grown so blind that he could not see to take his meat. He has lived
+a most easy life, in plenty even abroad, whilst His Majesty was a
+sufferer; he has lost immense sums at play, which yet, at about eighty
+years old, he continues, having one that sits by him to name the spots
+on the cards. He eat and drank with extraordinary appetite. He is a
+prudent old courtier, and much enriched since His Majesty's return."[8]
+
+Charles I.'s leather-covered travelling trunk is also preserved at
+Rushbrooke as well as his night-cap and night-shirt, and the silk
+brocade costume of his great-grandson, Prince Charles Edward. An emblem
+of loyalty to the Stuarts also may be seen in the great hall, a
+bas-relief in plaster representing Charles II. concealed in the Boscobel
+oak. Many of the bedrooms remain such as they were two hundred years
+ago, with their fine old tapestries, faded window curtains, and tall
+canopied beds. One is known as "Heaven" and another as "Hell," from the
+rich paintings upon the walls and ceilings. The royal bedchamber,
+Elizabeth's room, contains the old bed in which she slept, with its
+velvet curtains and elaborately worked counter-pane. The house is rich
+in portraits, and the walls of the staircase are lined from floor to
+ceiling with well-known characters of the seventeenth century, from
+James I. to Charles II.'s confidant, Edward Progers, who died in 1714,
+at the age of ninety-six, of the anguish of cutting four new teeth.[9]
+Here also is Agnes de Rushbrooke, who haunts the Hall. There is a grim
+story told of her body being cast into the moat; moreover, there is a
+certain bloodstain pointed out to verify the tale.
+
+Then there is the old ballroom, and the Roman Catholic chapel, now a
+billiard-room, and the library, rich in ancient manuscripts and
+elaborate carvings by Grinling Gibbons. The old gardens also are quite
+in character with the house, with its avenues of hornbeams known as
+Lovers' Walk, and the site of the old labyrinth or maze.
+
+Leaving Rushbrooke with its Stuart memories, our way lies to the
+south-east; but to the south-west there are also many places of
+interest, such as Hardwick, Hawstead, Plumpton, etc. At the last-named
+place, in an old house with high Mansard roofs resembling a French
+chateau, lived an eccentric character of whom many anecdotes are told,
+old Alderman Harmer, one of which is that in damp weather he used to sit
+in a kind of pulpit in one of the topmost rooms, with wooden boots on!
+
+For the remains of Hawstead Place, once visited in State by Queen
+Elizabeth, who dropped her fan in the moat to test the gallantry of her
+host, we searched in vain. A very old woman in mob-cap in pointing out
+the farm so named observed, "T'were nowt of much account nowadays, tho'
+wonderful things went on there years gone by." This was somewhat vague.
+We went up to the house and asked if an old gateway of which we had
+heard still existed. The servant girl looked aghast. Had we asked the
+road to Birmingham she could scarcely have been more dumbfounded. "No,
+there was no old gateway there," she said. We asked another villager,
+but he shook his head. "There was a lady in the church who died from a
+box on the ear!" This was scarcely to the point, and since we have
+discovered that the ancient Jacobean gateway is at Hawstead Place after
+all, we cannot place the Suffolk rustic intelligence above the average.
+It is in the kitchen garden, and in the alcoves of the pillars are
+moulded bricks with initials and hearts commemorating the union of Sir
+Thomas Cullum with the daughter of Sir Henry North. The moat is still to
+be seen, but the bridge spanning it has given way. The principal ruins
+of the old mansion were removed about a century ago.
+
+Gedding Hall, midway between Bury and Needham Market, is moated and
+picturesque, and before it was restored must have been a perfect
+picture, for as it is now it just misses being what it might have been
+under very careful treatment. A glaring red-brick tower has been added,
+which looks painfully new and out of keeping; and beneath two quaint old
+gables, a front door has been placed which would look very well in
+Fitz-John's Avenue or Bedford Park, but certainly not here. When old
+houses are nowadays so carefully restored so that occasionally it is
+really difficult to see where the old work ends and the new begins, one
+regrets that the care that is being bestowed upon West Stow could not
+have been lavished here.
+
+We come across another instance of bad restoration at Bildeston. There
+is a good old timber house at the top of the village street which,
+carefully treated, would have been a delight to the eye; but the carved
+oak corner-post has been enveloped in hideous yellow brickwork in such a
+fashion that one would rather have wished the place had been pulled
+down. But at the farther end of the village there is another old timber
+house, Newbury Farm, with carved beams and very lofty porch, which
+affords a fine specimen of village architecture of the fifteenth
+century. Within, there is a fine black oak ceiling of massive moulded
+beams, a good example of the lavish way in which oak was used in these
+old buildings.
+
+Hadleigh is rich in seventeenth-century houses with ornamental plaster
+fronts and carved oak beams and corbels. One with wide projecting eaves
+and many windows bears the date 1676, formed out of the lead setting of
+the little panes of glass. Some bear fantastical designs upon the
+pargeting, half obliterated by continual coats of white or yellow wash,
+with varying dates from James I. to Dutch William.
+
+A lofty battlemented tower in the churchyard, belonging to the rectory,
+was built towards the end of the fifteenth century by Archdeacon
+Pykenham. Some mural paintings in one of its rooms depict the adjacent
+hills and river and the interior of the church, and a turret-chamber has
+a kind of hiding-place or strong-room, with a stout door for defence.
+Not far from this rectory gatehouse is a half-timber building almost
+contemporary, with narrow Gothic doors, made up-to-date with an artistic
+shade of green. The exterior of the church is fine, but the interior is
+disappointing in many ways. It was restored at that period of the
+Victorian era when art in the way of church improvement had reached its
+lowest ebb. But the church had suffered previously, for a puritanical
+person named Dowsing smashed the majority of the painted windows as
+"superstitious pictures." Fortunately some fine linen panelling in the
+vestry has been preserved. The old Court Farm, about half a mile to the
+north of the town, has also suffered considerably; for but little
+remains beyond the entrance gate of Tudor date. By local report,
+Cromwell is here responsible; but the place was a monastery once, and
+Thomas Cromwell dismantled it. It would be interesting to know if the
+Lord Protector ever wrote to the editor of the _Weekly Post_, to refute
+any connection with his namesake of the previous century. Though the
+"White Lion" Inn has nothing architecturally attractive, there is an
+old-fashioned comfort about it. The courtyard is festooned round with
+clematis of over a century's growth, and in the summer you step out of
+your sleeping quarters into a delightful green arcade. The ostler, too,
+is a typical one of the good old coaching days, and doubtless has a
+healthy distaste for locomotion by the means of petrol.
+
+The corner of the county to the south-east of Hadleigh, and bounded by
+the rivers Stour and Orwell, could have no better recommendation for
+picturesqueness than the works of the famous painter Constable. He was
+never happier than at work near his native village, Flatford, where
+to-day the old mill affords a delightful rural studio to some painters
+of repute. The old timber bridge and the willow-bordered Stour, winding
+in and out the valley, afford charming subjects for the brush; and
+Dedham on the Essex border is delightful. Gainsborough also was very
+partial to the scenery on the banks of the Orwell.
+
+In the churchyard of East Bergholt, near Flatford, is a curious,
+deep-roofed wooden structure, a cage containing the bells, which are
+hung upside down. Local report says that his Satanic Majesty had the
+same objection to the completion of the sacred edifices that he had for
+Cologne Cathedral, consequently the tower still remains conspicuous by
+its absence. The "Hare and Hounds" Inn has a finely moulded plaster
+ceiling. It is worthy of note that the Folkards, an old Suffolk family,
+have owned the inn for upwards of six generations.
+
+Little and Great Wenham both possess interesting manor-houses: the
+former particularly so, as it is one of the earliest specimens of
+domestic architecture in the kingdom, or at least the first house where
+Flemish bricks were used in construction. For this reason, no doubt,
+trippers from Ipswich are desirous of leaving the measurements of their
+boots deep-cut into the leads of the roof with their initials duly
+recorded. Naturally the owner desires that some discrimination be now
+shown as to whom may be admitted. The building is compact, with but few
+rooms; but the hall on the first floor and the chapel are in a
+wonderfully good state of repair,--indeed the house would make a much
+more desirable residence than many twentieth-century dwellings of equal
+dimensions. Great Wenham manor-house is of Tudor date, with pretty
+little pinnacles at the corners of gable ends which peep over a high
+red-brick wall skirting the highroad.
+
+From here to Erwarton, which is miles from anywhere near the tongue of
+land dividing the two rivers, some charming pastoral scenery recalls
+peeps we have of it from the brush of Constable. At one particularly
+pretty spot near Harkstead some holiday folks had assembled to enjoy
+themselves, and looked sadly bored at a company of Salvationists who had
+come to destroy the peace of the scene.
+
+[Illustration: ERWARTON HALL.]
+
+Erwarton Hall is a ghostly looking old place, with an odd-shaped
+early-Jacobean gateway, with nine great pinnacles rising above its roof.
+It faces a wide and desolate stretch of road, with ancient trees and
+curious twisted roots, in front, and a pond: picturesque but melancholy
+looking. The house is Elizabethan, of dark red-brick, and the old
+mullioned windows peer over the boundary-wall as if they would like to
+see something of the world, even in this remote spot. In the mansion,
+which this succeeded, lived Anne Boleyn's aunt, Amata, Lady Calthorpe,
+and here the unfortunate queen is said to have spent some of the
+happiest days of girlhood,--a peaceful spot, indeed, compared with her
+subsequent surroundings. Local tradition long back has handed down the
+story that it was the queen's wish her heart should be buried at
+Erwarton; and it had well-nigh been forgotten, when some sixty-five
+years ago a little casket was discovered during some alterations to one
+of the walls of the church. It was heart-shaped, and contained but dust,
+and was eventually placed in a vault of the Cornwallis family. Sir W.
+Hastings D'Oyly, Bart., in writing an interesting article upon this
+subject a few years back,[10] pointed out that it has never been
+decided where Anne Boleyn's remains actually are interred, though they
+were buried, of course, in the first instance by her brother, Viscount
+Rochford, in the Tower. There are erroneous traditions, both at Salle in
+Norfolk and Horndon-on-the-Hill in Essex, that Anne Boleyn was buried
+there. There are some fine old monuments in the Erwarton church, a
+cross-legged crusader, and a noseless knight and lady, with elaborate
+canopy, members of the Davilliers family. During the Civil War five of
+the bells were removed from the tower and broken up for shot for the
+defence of the old Hall against the Parliamentarians. At least so goes
+the story. An octagonal Tudor font is in a good state of preservation,
+and a few old rusty helmets would look better hung up on the walls than
+placed upon the capital of a column.
+
+The story of Anne Boleyn's heart recalls that of Sir Nicholas Crispe,
+whose remains were recently reinterred when the old London church of St.
+Mildred's in Bread Street was pulled down. The heart of the cavalier,
+who gave large sums of money to Charles I. in his difficulties, is
+buried in Hammersmith Old Church, and by the instructions of his will
+the vessel which held it was to be opened every year and a glass of wine
+poured upon it.
+
+Some curious vicissitudes are said to have happened to the heart of the
+great Montrose. It came into the possession of Lady Napier, his nephew's
+wife, who had it embalmed and enclosed in a steel case of the size of an
+egg, which opened with a spring, made from the blade of his sword, and
+the relic was given by her to the then Marchioness of Montrose. Soon
+afterwards it was lost, but eventually traced to a collection of curios
+in Holland, and returned into the possession of the fifth Lord Napier,
+who gave it to his daughter. When she married she went to reside in
+Madeira, where the little casket was stolen by a native, under the
+belief that it was a magic charm, and sold to an Indian chief, from whom
+it was at length recovered; but the possessor in returning to Europe in
+1792, having to spend some time in France during that revolutionary
+period, thought it advisable to leave the little treasure in possession
+of a lady friend at Boulogne; but as luck would have it, this lady died
+unexpectedly, and no clue was forthcoming as to where she had hidden the
+relic.
+
+But a still more curious story is told of the heart of Louis XIV. An
+ancestor of Sir William Harcourt, at the time of the French Revolution
+had given to him by a canon of St. Denis the great monarch's heart,
+which he had annexed from a casket at the time the royal tombs were
+demolished by the mob. It resembled a small piece of shrivelled leather,
+an inch or so long. Many years afterwards the late Dr. Buckland, Dean of
+Westminster, during a visit to the Harcourts was shown the curiosity. We
+will quote the rest in Mr Labouchere's words, for he it was who related
+the story in _Truth_. "He (Dr. Buckland) was then very old. He had some
+reputation as a man of science, and the scientific spirit moved him to
+wet his finger, rub it on the heart, and put the finger to his mouth.
+After that, before he could be stopped, he put the heart in his mouth
+and swallowed it, whether by accident or design will never be known.
+Very shortly afterwards he died and was buried in Westminster Abbey. It
+is impossible that he could ever have digested the thing. It must have
+been a pretty tough organ to start with, and age had almost petrified
+it. Consequently the heart of Louis XIV. must now be reposing in
+Westminster Abbey enclosed in the body of an English dean."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[7] The old Hall was pulled down in 1771.
+
+[8] _Evelyn's Diary_, Sept. 18, 1683.
+
+[9] Descendants of Proger, or Progers, are still living in Bury St.
+Edmunds.
+
+[10] _The Antiquary_, vol. xxxviii.
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS IN NORFOLK
+
+
+Wells-next-the-Sea, on the north coast of Norfolk, sounds attractive,
+and looks attractive on the map; but that is about all that can be said
+in its favour, for a more depressing place would be difficult to find.
+Even Holkham, with all its art treasures, leaves a pervading impression
+of chill and gloom. The architects of the middle of the eighteenth
+century had no partiality for nooks and corners in the mansions they
+designed. Vastness and discomfort seems to have been their principal
+aim. Well might the noble earl for whom it was built have observed, "It
+is a melancholy thing to stand alone in one's own country." The advent
+of the motor car must indeed be welcome, to bring the place in touch
+with life.
+
+We were attracted to the village of Stiffkey, to the east of Wells,
+mainly by a magazine article fresh in our memory, of some of its
+peculiarities, conspicuous among which was its weird red-headed
+inhabitants. The race of people, however, must have died out, for what
+few villagers we encountered were very ordinary ones: far from
+ill-favoured. Possibly they still invoke the aid of the local "wise
+woman," as they do in many other parts of Norfolk, so therein they are
+no further behind the times than their neighbours.
+
+We heard of an instance farther south, for example, where the head of an
+establishment, as was his wont, having disposed of his crop of potatoes,
+disappeared for a week with the proceeds; and returning at length in a
+very merry condition, his good wife, in the hopes of frightening him,
+unknown to him removed his watch from his pocket. Next morning in sober
+earnest he went with his sole remaining sixpence to consult the wise
+woman of the village, who promptly told him the thief was in his own
+house. Consequently the watch was produced, and the lady who had
+purloined it, instead of teaching a lesson, was soundly belaboured with
+a broom-handle!
+
+[Illustration: EAST BARSHAM MANOR.]
+
+Stiffkey Hall is a curious Elizabethan gabled building with a massive
+flint tower, built, it is said, by Sir Nathaniel Bacon, the brother of
+the philosopher, but it never was completed. Far more picturesque and
+interesting are the remains of East Barsham manor-house, some seven
+miles to the south of Wells. Although it contained some of the finest
+ornamental Tudor brickwork in England when we were there, and possibly
+still, the old place could have been had for a song. It had the
+reputation of being haunted, and was held in awe. The gatehouse, bearing
+the arms and ensigns of Henry VIII., reminds one of a bit of Hampton
+Court, and the chimneys upon the buildings on the northern side of the
+Court are as fine as those at Compton Wyniates. The wonder is that in
+these days of appreciation of beautiful architecture nobody has restored
+it back into a habitable mansion. That such ruins as this or Kirby Hall
+or Burford Priory should remain to drop to pieces, seems a positive sin.
+A couple of miles to the west of Barsham is Great Snoring, whose
+turreted parsonage is also rich in early-Tudor moulded brickwork, as is
+also the case at Thorpland Hall to the south.
+
+One grieves to think that the old Hall of the Townshends on the other
+side of Fakenham has been shorn of its ancestral portraits. What a
+splendid collection, indeed, was this, and how far more dignified did
+the full-length Elizabethan warriors by Janssen look here than upon the
+walls at Christie's a year or so ago. The famous haunted chambers have a
+far less awe-inspiring appearance than some other of the bedrooms with
+their hearse-like beds and nodding plumes. We do not know when the
+"Brown Lady" last made her appearance, but there are rumours that she
+was visible before the decease of the late Marquis Townshend. Until then
+the stately lady in her rich brown brocade had absented herself for half
+a century. She had last introduced herself unbecoming a modest ghost, to
+two gentlemen visitors of a house party who were sitting up late at
+night. One of these gentlemen, a Colonel Loftus, afterwards made a
+sketch of her from memory which possibly is still in existence.
+
+[Illustration: WALSINGHAM.]
+
+[Illustration: WALSINGHAM.]
+
+Walsingham, midway between Fakenham and Wells, is a quaint old town; its
+timber houses and its combined Gothic well, lock-up, and cross in the
+market-place giving it quite a mediæval aspect. Before the image of Our
+Lady of Walsingham was consigned to the flames by Wolsey's confidential
+servant Cromwell, the pilgrimages to the Priory were in every respect as
+great as those to Canterbury, and the "way" through Brandon and
+Newmarket may be traced like that in Kent. Notwithstanding the fact that
+Henry VIII. himself had been a barefoot pilgrim, and had bestowed a
+costly necklace on the image, his gift as well as a host of other riches
+from the shrine came in very handy at the Dissolution. A relic of Our
+Lady's milk enclosed in crystal, says Erasmus, was occasionally like
+chalk mixed with the white of eggs. It had been brought from
+Constantinople in the tenth century; but this and a huge bone of St
+Peter's finger, of course, did not survive. The site of the chapel,
+containing the altar where the pilgrims knelt, stood somewhere to the
+north-west of the ruins of the Priory. These are approached from the
+street through a fine old early fifteenth-century gateway. The
+picturesque remains of the refectory date from the previous century, the
+western window being a good example of the purest Gothic. The old
+pilgrims' entrance was in "Knight Street," which derives its name from
+the miracle of a horseman who had sought sanctuary passing through the
+extraordinarily narrow limits of the wicket. Henry III. is said to have
+set the fashion for walking to Walsingham, and we strongly recommend
+the tourists of to-day, who may find themselves stranded at
+Wells-next-the-Sea, to do likewise.
+
+[Illustration: FONT CANOPY, TRUNCH.]
+
+The little seaside resort Mundesley is an improvement on Wells; but dull
+as it is now, what must it have been in Cowper's time: surely a place
+ill-calculated to improve the poor poet's melancholia! There is little
+of interest beyond the ruined church on the cliffs and the Rookery Farm
+incorporated in the remains of the old monastery. A priest's hole is, or
+was not long since, to be seen in one of the gabled roofs. The churches
+of Trunch and Knapton to the south-west both are worth a visit for their
+fine timber roofs. The font at Trunch is enclosed by a remarkable canopy
+of oak supported by graceful wooden pillars from the floor. It is
+probably of early-Elizabethan date, and is certainly one of the most
+remarkable baptistries in the country. Here and in other parts of
+Norfolk when there are several babies to be christened the ceremony is
+usually performed on the girls last, as otherwise when they grew up they
+would develop beards!
+
+Ten miles to the south-west as the crow flies is historic Blickling, one
+of the reputed birthplaces of the ill-fated Anne Boleyn. By some
+accounts Luton Hoo in Bedfordshire claims her nativity as well as
+Rochford Hall in Essex and Hever Castle in Kent; but, though Hever is
+the only building that will go back to that date, she probably was born
+in the older Hall of Blickling, the present mansion dating only from the
+reign of James I.
+
+Upon the occasion of our visit the house was closed, so we can only
+speak of the exterior, and of the very extensive gardens, where in vain
+we sought the steward, who was said to be somewhere on the premises.
+
+The rampant bulls, bearing shields, perched on the solid piers that
+guard the drawbridge across the moat, duly impress one with the
+ancestral importance of the Hobarts, whose arms and quarterings,
+surmounted by the helmet and ancient crest, adorn the principal
+entrance. Like Hatfield and Bramshill, the mellowed red-brick gives it a
+charm of colour which only the lapse of centuries will give; and though
+not so old as Knole or Hatfield, the main entrance is quite as
+picturesque. The gardens, however, immediately surrounding the Hall look
+somewhat flat in comparison.
+
+Although Henry VIII. did the principal part of his courting at Hever, it
+was at Blickling that he claimed his bride, and by some accounts was
+married to her there and not at Calais. The old earl, the unfortunate
+queen's father, survived her only two years; and after his death the
+estate was purchased by Sir Henry Hobart,[11] who built the present
+noble house. Among the relics preserved at Blickling of the unhappy
+queen are her morning-gown and a set of night-caps, and her toilet case
+containing mirrors, combs, etc. Sir John the third baronet entertained
+Charles II. and his queen here in 1671, upon which occasion the host's
+son and heir, then aged thirteen, was knighted. The royal visit is duly
+recorded in the parish register as follows: "King Charles the Second,
+with Queene Katherine, and James, Duke of Yorke, accompanied with the
+Dukes of Monmouth, Richmond, and Buckingham, and with divers Lords,
+arrived and dined at Sir John Hubart's, at Blicklinge Hall, the King,
+Queene, Duke of Yorke, and Duchesse of Richmond, of Buckingham etc., in
+the great dining-roomes, the others in the great parloure beneath it,
+upon Michmasday 1671. From whence they went, the Queene to Norwich, the
+King to Oxneads and lodged there, and came through Blicklinge the next
+day about one of the clock, going to Rainham to the Lord Townsends."[12]
+
+Queen Catherine slept that night and the following in the Duke's Palace
+at Norwich, but joined her royal spouse at lunch at Oxnead, which fine
+Elizabethan house has, alas! been pulled down, and the statues and
+fountain from there are now at Blickling. "Next morne (being Saterday),"
+writes a local scribe in 1671, "her Maty parted so early from Norwich
+as to meet ye King againe at Oxnead ere noone; Sr Robt Paston haveing
+got a vast dinner so early ready, in regard that his Maty was to goe
+that same afternoone (as he did) twenty myles to supper to the Ld
+Townshend's, wher he stayd all yesterday, and as I suppose, is this
+evening already return'd to Newmarket, extremely well satisfied with our
+Lord Lieuts reception.... Her Maty haveinge but seven myles back to
+Norwich that night from Sr Robt Pastons was pleased for about two
+houres after dinner to divert herselfe at cards with the Court ladies
+and my Lady Paston, who had treated her so well and yet returned early
+to Norwich that eveninge to the same quarters as formerly; and on Sunday
+morne (after her devotions perform'd and a plentifull breakfast) shee
+tooke coach, extreamely satisfied with the dutifull observances of all
+this countie and city, and was conducted by the Ld Howard and his
+sonnes as far as Attleburough where fresh coaches atended to carry her
+back to the Rt Hoble the Ld Arlington's at Euston."[13]
+
+Sidelights of this royal progress are obtained from the diarist Evelyn
+and Lord Dartmouth. Among the attractions provided for the king's
+amusement at Euston was the future Duchess of Portsmouth. The Duchess of
+Richmond (La belle Stuart), in the queen's train, must have been
+reminded how difficult had been her position before she eloped with her
+husband four years previously. For the duke's sake let us hope he was as
+overcome as his Majesty when the latter let his tongue wag with more
+than usual freedom during the feast at Raynham. "After her marriage,"
+says Dartmouth, speaking of the duchess, "she had more complaisance than
+before, as King Charles could not forbear telling the Duke of Richmond,
+when he was drunk at Lord Townshend's in Norfolk." Evelyn did not think
+much of the queen's lodgings at Norwich, which he describes as "an old
+wretched building," partly rebuilt in brick, standing in the
+market-place, which in his opinion would have been better had it been
+demolished and erected somewhere else.
+
+Not far from Blickling to the north-east is Mannington Hall, a mansion
+built in the reign of Henry VI., which possesses one of the best
+authenticated ghost stories of modern times. The story is the more
+interesting as it is recorded by that learned and delightful chronicler
+Dr. Jessop, chaplain to His Majesty the King. The strange experiences of
+his visit in October 1879 are duly recorded in the _Athenæeum_ of the
+following January. The rest of the household had retired to rest, and
+Dr. Jessop was sitting up making extracts from some rare books in an
+apartment adjoining the library. Absorbed in his study, time had slipped
+away and it was after one o'clock. "I was just beginning to think that
+my work was drawing to a close," says the doctor, "when, as I was
+actually writing, I saw a large white hand within a foot of my elbow.
+Turning my head, there sat a figure of a somewhat large man, with his
+back to the fire, bending slightly over the table, and apparently
+examining the pile of books that I had been at work upon. The man's face
+was turned away from me, but I saw his closely-cut, reddish brown hair,
+his ear and shaved cheek, the eyebrow, the corner of his right eye, the
+side of the forehead, and the large high cheekbone. He was dressed in
+what I can only describe as a kind of ecclesiastical habit of thick
+corded silk, or some such material, close up to the throat, and a narrow
+rim or edging of about an inch broad of satin or velvet serving as a
+stand-up collar and fitting close to the chin. The right hand, which had
+first attracted my attention, was clasping, without any great pressure,
+the left hand; both hands were in perfect repose, and the large blue
+veins of the right hand were conspicuous. I remember thinking that the
+hand was like the hand of Velasquez's magnificent 'Dead Knight' in the
+National Gallery. I looked at my visitor for some seconds, and was
+perfectly sure that he was a reality. A thousand thoughts came crowding
+upon me, but not the least feeling of alarm or even of uneasiness.
+Curiosity and a strong interest were uppermost. For an instant I felt
+eager to make a sketch of my friend, and I looked at a tray on my right
+for a pencil: then thought, 'Upstairs I have a sketch-book; shall I
+fetch it?' There he sat and I was fascinated, afraid not of his staying,
+but lest he should go. Stopping in my writing, I lifted my left hand
+from the paper, stretched it out to a pile of books and moved the top
+one. I cannot explain why I did this. My arm passed in front of the
+figure, and it vanished. Much astonished, I went on with my writing
+perhaps for another five minutes, and had actually got to the last few
+words of the extract when the figure appeared again, exactly in the same
+place and attitude as before. I saw the hand close to my own; I turned
+my head again to examine him more closely, and I was framing a sentence
+to address to him when I discovered that I did not dare to speak. I was
+afraid of the sound of my own voice! There he sat, and there sat I. I
+turned my head again to my work, and finished the two or three words
+still remaining to be written. The paper and my notes are at this moment
+before me, and exhibit not the slightest tremor or nervousness. I could
+point out the words I was writing when the phantom came, and when he
+disappeared. Having finished my task I shut the book and threw it on the
+table: it made a slight noise as it fell--the figure vanished." Not
+until now did the doctor feel nervous, but it was only for a second. He
+replaced the books in the adjoining room, blew out the candles on the
+table, and retired to his rooms marvelling at his calmness under such
+strange circumstances.
+
+[Illustration: WYMONDHAM.]
+
+The old-fashioned town Wymondham, to the south-west of Norwich, contains
+an interesting church and market-cross, and one or two fine Gothic
+houses, all in good preservation. But stay, the quaint octagonal
+Jacobean timber structure in the market-place was holding forth a
+petition for contributions, as it was feeling somewhat decrepit. This
+was six or seven years ago, so probably by now it has entered upon a new
+lease of life. How much more picturesque are these old timbered
+structures than the jubilee clock-towers which have sprung up in many
+old-fashioned towns, putting everything out of harmony. But few towns
+are proud of their old buildings. They must be up to date with flaring
+red-brick, and electric tramways, and down comes everything with any
+claim to antiquity, without a thought of its past associations or
+picturesque value. But let us hope that Wymondham may be exempt from
+these terrible tramways for many years to come, as its population is, or
+was, decreasing.
+
+The abbey and the church appear to have got rather mixed up; but having
+come to a satisfactory arrangement, present a most pleasing group, and,
+in the twilight, with two lofty towers and a ruined archway, it looks
+far more like a castle on the Rhine than a church in Norfolk. The effect
+doubtless would be heightened if we could see the rebel Kett dangling in
+chains from the tower as he did in the reign of Bloody Mary. The timber
+roof is exceptionally fine, with its long array of carved oak bosses and
+projecting angels.
+
+Near Wymondham is the moated Hall of Stanfield, picturesque with its
+numerous pinnacles. Here the heroine of the delightful romance
+_Kenilworth_ was born in 1532; but poor Amy's marriage, far from being
+secret, was celebrated with great pomp at Sheen in Surrey in 1550, and
+is recorded in the _Diary of Edward VI._ now in the British Museum.
+"Lydcote," the old house in North Devon where she lived for some
+years, was pulled down not many years ago. Her bedstead from there we
+believe is still preserved at Great Torrington Rectory.
+
+[Illustration: HAUTBOYS HALL.
+(_Photo by W. B. Redfern, Esq._)]
+
+Somewhat similar to Stanfield, though now only a farmhouse, is the very
+pretty old Tudor house Hautboys Hall. It stands a few miles to the
+south-east of Oxnead.
+
+Of all the moated mansions in Norfolk, Oxburgh Hall, near Stoke Ferry,
+is the most interesting, and is a splendid example of the fortified
+manor-house of the end of the fifteenth century, and it is one of the
+few houses in England that have always been occupied by one family. Sir
+Edmund Bedingfield built it in the reign of Richard III., and Sir
+Richard Bedingfield resides there at the present time. The octagonal
+towers which flank the entrance gate rise from the broad moat to a
+considerable height. There is a quaint projecting turret on the eastern
+side which adds considerably to the picturesque outline of stepped
+gables and quaint battlements. High above the ponderous oak gates the
+machicolation behind the arch that joins the towers shows ample
+provision for a liberal supply of molten lead, and in an old guard-room
+may be seen the ancient armour and weapons to which the retainers of the
+Hall were wont to have recourse in case of siege. The room recalls
+somehow the defence of the tower of Tillietudlem in _Old Mortality_, and
+one can picture the little household guard running the old culverins
+and sakers into position on the battlements.
+
+The great mullioned window beneath the Tudor arch and over the entrance
+gate belongs to the "King's room," a fine old tapestried chamber
+containing the bed, with green and gold hangings, where Henry VII.
+slept; and it is no difficult matter to repeople it in the imagination
+with the inhabitants of that time in their picturesque costumes. There
+is a richness in the colouring of the faded tapestry and hangings in
+contrast with the red-brick Tudor fireplace far more striking than if
+the restorer had been allowed a liberal hand. It is like a bit of
+Haddon, and such rooms are as rarely met with nowadays as unrestored
+churches. The remarkable hiding-place at Oxburgh we have described in
+detail elsewhere.[14] It is situated in the little projecting turret of
+the eastern tower, and is so cleverly constructed beneath the solid
+brick floor, that no one would believe until they saw the solid masonry
+move upwards that there was sufficient space beneath to conceal a man.
+The Bedingfields are an old Roman Catholic family, and it is usually in
+the mansions of those of that faith that these ingenious contrivances
+are to be seen.
+
+A priest's hole was discovered quite recently in Snowre Hall, a curious
+Tudor house some ten miles to the west of Oxburgh. It is entered through
+a shaft from the roof, and measures five feet by six feet and four feet
+high, and beneath it is an inner and smaller hiding-place. Mr. Pratt (in
+whose family the house has been for two centuries) when he made the
+discovery had to remove four barrow-loads of jackdaws' nests. The
+discovery of this secret room is an interesting sequel to the fact that
+on April 29, 1646, Charles I. slept at Snowre Hall. It will be
+remembered that before he delivered himself up to the Scots army, he
+spent some days wandering about the eastern counties in disguise, like
+his son did in the western counties five years later. The owner of the
+house in those days was a Mr. Ralph Skipwith, who, to put the spies that
+were lurking about the vicinity off the track, provided the king with
+his own grey riding-jacket in place of the clergyman's black coat he was
+wearing, for that disguise had been widely advertised by his enemies.
+Dr. Hudson, who was acting as scout, joined Charles and his companion,
+Mr. Ashburnham, at Downham Market, where the "King's Walk" by the town
+side, where they met, may still be seen. It is recorded by Dr. Stukeley
+that Charles scratched some motto or secret instructions to his friends
+on a pane of glass in the Swan Inn, where he put up awaiting Hudson's
+return from Southwell. The fugitives proceeded thence to the Cherry Inn
+at Mundford, some fourteen miles from Downham, and back to Crimplesham,
+where they halted at an inn to effect the disguise above referred to.
+The regicide Miles Corbet, who was on the track with Valentine Walton,
+gave information as follows:
+
+"Since our coming to Lyn we have done what service we were able. We have
+taken some examinations, and it doth appeare to us that Mr. Hudson, the
+parson that came from Oxford with the king, was at Downham in Norfolk
+with two other gentlemen upon Thursday the last of April. We cannot yet
+learn where they were Friday night; but Saturday morning, the 2 of May
+they came to a blind alehouse at Crimplesham, about 8 miles from Lyn.
+From thence Mr. Hudson did ride on Saturday to Downham again, and there
+two soldiers met with him, and had private speech with him. Hudson was
+then in a scarlet coat. Ther he met with Mr. Ralf Skipwith of his former
+acquaintance, and with him he did exchange his horse; and Skipwith and
+the said Hudson did ride to Southrie ferrie a privat way to go towards
+Ely; and went by the way to Crimplesham, and ther were the other
+two--one in a parsons habit, which by all description was the king.
+Hudson procured the said Skipwith to get a gray coat for the Dr. (as he
+called the king), which he did. And ther the king put off his black coat
+and long cassock, and put on Mr. Skipwith his gray coat. The king bought
+a new hat at Downham, and on Saturday went into the Isle of Ely.
+Wherever they came they were very private and always writing. Hudson
+tore some papers when they came out of the house. Hudson did enquire for
+a ship to go to the north or Newcastel, but could get none. We hear at
+the same time there were 6 soldiers and officers as is thought at
+Oxborough at another blind alehouse."[15]
+
+It is worthy of remark that Miles Corbet, whom Pepys saw on the morning
+of April 19, 1662, looking "very cheerful" upon his way to Tyburn, was a
+native of Norfolk, and his monument may be seen in Sprowston Church near
+Norwich.
+
+The "Swan" at Downham still exists, but it was modernised some fifteen
+years ago. It would be interesting to know what became of the historical
+pane of glass.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[11] The Miss Hobart who figures in de Gramont's _Memoirs_ was Sir
+John's sister, one of the first baronet's sixteen children.
+
+[12] There is an illustration of the room that Monmouth slept in at
+Raynham upon this occasion in _King Monmouth_.
+
+[13] _A Narrative of the Visit of His Majesty King Charles the Second to
+Norwich, 1671_ (1846).
+
+[14] See _Secret Chambers and Hiding-Places_.
+
+[15] See _Memoirs of the Martyr King_.
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS IN WARWICKSHIRE AND
+BORDERLAND
+
+
+The outline of Warwickshire is something in the form of a turnip, and
+the stem of it, which, like an isthmus, projects into Gloucestershire
+and Oxfordshire, contains many old-world places.
+
+Long Compton, the most southern village of all, is grey and straggling
+and picturesque, with orchards on all sides, and a fine old church, amid
+a group of thatched cottages, whose interior was restored or mangled at
+a period when these things were not done with much antiquarian taste. We
+have pleasant recollections of a sojourn at the "Old Red Lion," where
+mine host in 1880, a typical Warwickshire farmer, was the most
+hospitable and cheery to be found in this or any other county: an
+innkeeper of the old school that it did one's heart good to see.
+
+But this welcome house of call is by no means the only Lion of the
+neighbourhood, for on the ridge of the high land which forms the
+boundary of Oxfordshire are the "Whispering Knights," the "King's
+Stone," and a weird Druidical circle. These are the famous Rollright
+Stones, about which there is a story that a Danish prince came over to
+invade England, and when at Dover he consulted the oracle as to the
+chances of success. He was told that
+
+  "When Long Compton you shall see,
+  You shall King of England be."
+
+Naturally he and his soldiers made a bee-line for Long Compton, and,
+arriving at the spot where the circle is now marked by huge boulders, he
+was so elated that he stepped in advance of his followers, who stood
+round him, saying, "It is not meet that I should remain among my
+subjects, I will go before." But for his conceit some unkind spirit
+turned the whole party into stone, which doesn't seem quite fair.
+"King's Stone" stands conspicuous from the rest on the other side of the
+road, and, being very erect, looks as if the prince still prided himself
+upon his folly. The diameter of the circle is over a hundred feet. In an
+adjoining field is a cluster of five great stones. These are the
+"Whispering Knights"; and the secret among themselves is that they will
+not consent to budge an inch, and woe to the farmer who attempts to
+remove them. The story goes that one of the five was once carted off to
+make a bridge; but the offender had such a warm time of it that he
+speedily repented his folly and reinstated it.
+
+There is a delightful walk across the fields from Long Compton to Little
+Compton, with a glorious prospect of the Gloucestershire and
+Warwickshire hills. This village used to be in the former county, but
+now belongs to Warwickshire. Close to the quaint saddle-back towered
+church stands the gabled Elizabethan manor-house, with the Juxon arms
+carved over the entrance. Its exterior has been but little altered since
+the prelate lived here in retirement after the execution of Charles I. A
+gruesome relic was kept in one of the rooms, the block upon which the
+poor monarch's head was severed. This and King Charles' chair and some
+of the archbishop's treasured books disappeared from the manor-house
+after the death of his descendant Lady Fane. Internally the house has
+been much altered, but there are many nooks and corners to carry the
+memory back to the hunting bishop, for his pack of hounds was one of the
+best managed in the country. Upon one occasion a complaint was made to
+the Lord Protector that Juxon's hounds had followed the scent through
+Chipping Norton churchyard at the time of a puritanical assembly there.
+But Oliver would hear none of it, and only replied, "Let the bishop
+enjoy his hunting unmolested."
+
+[Illustration: CHASTLETON.]
+
+When Little Compton church had an Independent minister to hold forth to
+the congregation, the prelate held divine service every Sunday at
+Chastleton, the grand old home of the loyalist family of Jones. This
+stately Jacobean mansion is close to Little Compton, but is really in
+Oxfordshire. It has an old-world charm about it entirely its own; and
+few ancestral homes can take us back to the days of Cavalier and
+Roundhead with such realism, for the old furniture and pictures and
+relics have never been disturbed since the house was built by Walter
+Jones between the years 1603 and 1630. He purchased the estate from
+Robert Catesby, the projector of the Gunpowder Plot, who sold the manor
+to provide funds for carrying on that notorious conspiracy.
+
+The great hall is a noble apartment, with raised dais and carved screen;
+and the Royalist Joneses looking down upon you on all sides, conspicuous
+among whom is Thomas Jones and valiant Captain Arthur Jones, whose sword
+beside him shows the good service he did at Worcester fight. When the
+day was lost, and Charles was journeying towards Boscobel, the captain
+managed to ride his tired horse back to Chastleton. But a party of
+Cromwellian soldiers were at his heels, and his wife had only just time
+to hurry him into an ingeniously contrived hiding-place when the enemy
+confronted her, and refused to budge from the very bedroom behind whose
+panelled walls the fugitive was secreted. But Mrs. Arthur Jones had her
+share of tact, and in preparing her unwelcome guests some refreshment,
+she added a narcotic to the wine, which in time had effect. Her husband
+was then released, and with a fresh horse he was soon beyond danger. The
+little oak wainscoted chamber and the adjoining bedroom may still be
+seen where this exciting episode took place. The drawing-room is very
+rich in oak carvings, and the lofty marble chimney-piece bears in the
+centre the Jones' arms. The ceiling with its massive pendants is a fine
+example of the period.[16] The bedrooms are all hung with the original
+tapestry and arras that was made for them. One of them contains the
+State bed from old Woodstock Palace; and there are everywhere antique
+dressing-tables, mirrors, and quaint embroidered coverlets, and old
+chests and cabinets innumerable containing queer old dresses and coats
+of the Georgian period, and, what is more remarkable, the identical
+Jacobean ruffs and frills which are depicted in the old portraits in the
+hall. Then there are cupboards full of delightful old china, and
+decanters and wine glasses which were often produced to drink a health
+to the "King over the water." But of more direct historic interest is
+Charles I.'s Bible, which was given by the widow of the last baronet of
+the Juxon family--a grand-nephew of the archbishop--to the then
+proprietor of Chastleton, John Jones. It is bound in gold stamped
+leather, and bears the Royal arms with the initials C. R. It is dated
+1629, and is full of queer old maps and illustrations, and upon the
+fly-leaf is written--"Juxon, Compton, Gloucestershire."
+
+Some of the ancient cabinets at Chastleton are full of secret drawers,
+and in one of them some years ago a very curious miniature of the martyr
+king was discovered. It is painted on copper, and represents Charles I.
+with the Order of St. George, and a set of designs drawn on talc,
+illustrating the life of the ill-fated monarch from his coronation to
+his execution. They are thus described by one of the past owners of
+Chastleton: "They consist of a face and bust in one miniature, in a case
+accompanied with a set of eight or nine pictures drawn on talc, being
+different scenes or dresses, which are to be laid on the miniature so
+that the face of the miniature appears through a hole left for that
+purpose: and thus the one miniature does duty in every one of the talc
+pictures. These were accidentally discovered some twenty years ago.[17]
+The miniature was well known, and was supposed to be complete in itself;
+but one day whilst being handled by one of the family, then quite a
+child, it fell to the ground, and being in that way forced open at the
+back, those talc pictures were brought to light. The careful manner in
+which they had been concealed, and the miniature thereby made to appear
+no more than an ordinary portrait, seems to warrant the suggestion that
+they were in the first instance the property of some affectionate
+adherent of Charles, whose prudence persuaded him to conceal what his
+loyalty no doubt taught him to value very highly. There is no direct
+evidence to show that they belonged to Bishop Juxon; nor is there any
+tradition that I ever heard connected with them. The two concluding
+pictures of the series represent the decapitated head in the hand of the
+executioner, and a hand placing the martyr's crown upon the brows."
+
+There are two huge oak staircases running up to the top of the house,
+where is the old gallery or ballroom, with a coved ceiling of ornamented
+plaster-work, and above the mullioned windows grotesque monster heads
+devised in the pargeting.
+
+The grounds and gardens are quite in character: not made to harmonise,
+as are so many gardens nowadays, but the original quaint cut box hedges
+and trim walks. The grand old house in the centre with its rusty roof of
+lichen, and hard by the little church nestling by its side with the
+picturesque entrance gateway and dovecot, form together a delightful
+group. Chastleton church contains some good brasses. The tower is oddly
+placed over the south porch.
+
+A couple of miles to the north, and the same distance beyond, are two
+other interesting manor-houses, Barton-on-the-Heath and Little Woolford.
+The former, a gabled Jacobean house, was once the seat of the
+unfortunate Sir Thomas Overbury, who was done to death in the Tower by
+the machinations of that evil couple, Carr, Earl of Somerset, and his
+countess. Overbury, it will be remembered, had written the Court
+favourite's love letters and poems, and knew too much of that guilty
+courtship.
+
+There are some good monuments to the Overburys in the church: a Norman
+one with saddle-back tower. Near here is the Four-Shire Stone, described
+by Leland as "a large bigge stone; a Three-Mile-Stone from Rollerich
+Stones, which is a very mark or line of Gloucestershire, Whichester
+(Worcestershire), Warwickshire, and Oxfordshire."
+
+Little Woolford manor-house, the old seat of the Ingrams, is now, or was
+some years ago, used as a school. It is very picturesque, and its gables
+of half-timber, facing the little courtyard, remind one of the
+quadrangle of Ightham Mote. Opposite the Tudor entrance-gate is the
+hall, with its open timber roof, minstrels' gallery, panelled walls, and
+tall windows, still containing their ancient painted glass. Barton,
+which properly should have its ghost, presumably is not so favoured; but
+here there are two at least,--a certain "White Lady," who, fortunately
+for the juvenile scholars, does not appear until midnight; and the last
+of the Ingrams, who has a restless way of tearing about on horseback in
+the adjacent fields. This gentleman could not die decently in his bed,
+but must needs, upon the point of dying, rush into the stable, mount his
+favourite steed, and plunge into the raging tempest to meet his
+adversary Death. What a pity there are not more educational
+establishments like this. They might possibly make the pupils less
+matter-of-fact and more imaginative. But we had almost forgotten a
+moral lesson that is to be learned from a rude projection in the masonry
+on the left-hand side of the entrance gateway. This is the oven, which
+opens at the back of a wide hearth; and here some seventeenth-century
+I O U's are said to have been found for money lost at play; while some
+Cavaliers were concealed there in the time of the Civil Wars. But the
+punishment for gambling was providentially arranged. Some Cromwellian
+soldiers dropping in at the manor-house, lighted a tremendous fire, and
+gave the unfortunate fugitives a roasting which they did not readily
+forget. This is roughly as the story goes; indeed it goes further, for
+by local report King Charles himself was one of the victims.
+
+Brailes, a few miles to the north-east, is famous for its church, the
+cathedral of southern Warwickshire; but it is principally interesting
+exteriorly, the old benches having been long since cleared away and many
+nineteenth-century "improvements" made. Still there are parts of the
+fourteenth-century roof and a fine font, some ancient monuments,
+particularly melodious old bells; and the lofty embattled
+fifteenth-century tower is exceptionally graceful.
+
+Buried in a hollow, and hidden from view by encircling trees and hills,
+is that wonderful old mansion Compton Wyniates. The name (derived from
+the ancient family of Compton and Wyniates, a corruption of vineyard,
+for at an early period the vine was here cultivated) is suggestive of
+something quaint, and indeed a more curious old house could not be
+found. Its innumerable gables and twisted chimneys seem to be heaped up
+in the most delightful confusion, in abandoned opposition to any
+architectural regularity. The eye wanders from tower and turret until it
+becomes bewildered by so many twists and angles. Look at the square box
+of a house like Moor Park, for example, and wonder how it is that having
+arrived at such picturesque perfection, taste should so degenerate. But
+half the fascination of Compton Wyniates is its colour; its time-worn
+dark-red brick and the grey-green lichens of ancient roofs. Upon one
+side the curious gables and countless chimney clusters are reflected in
+the moat, part of which now does service as a sunken garden.
+
+Passing through the bullet-battered door of the main entrance, over
+which are the Royal arms of England supported by a griffin and a dog, we
+enter a quadrangular court and thence pass into the great hall, with its
+open timber roof black with the smoke of centuries. The screen beneath
+the music gallery is elaborately carved with leaf tracery, grotesque
+figures of mounted knights, and the escutcheon of the Compton arms.
+Above the gallery we notice the huge oak beams which form the
+half-timber portion of one of the principal gables, and cannot help
+comparing these tremendous oak trunks with the modern laths plastered in
+front of houses: a futile attempt to imitate this popular style, without
+aiming at its _object_--strength.
+
+The screen of the chapel, like that of the hall, is ornamented with
+grotesque carvings, including a battle royal between some monks and his
+Satanic Majesty, who by the way has one of the ninety rooms all to
+himself, and reached by a special spiral staircase. Near the "Devil's
+chamber" is another small room whose ghostly occupant is evidently a
+member of the fresh-air league, for he will persist in having the window
+open, and no matter how often it is closed it is always found to be
+open. What a pity this sanitary ghost does not take up his abode where
+oxygen is scarcer. But these are by no means the only mysterious rooms
+at Compton Wyniates, for not a few have secret entrances and exits, and
+one dark corridor is provided with a movable floor, which when removed,
+drawbridge fashion, makes an excellent provision for safety so long as
+you are on the right side of the chasm. Such ingenious arrangements were
+as necessary in a private residence, miles from anywhere, as the
+bathroom is in a suburban villa. There are secret "barracks" in the
+roof, with storage for a regiment of soldiers, if necessary. The popish
+chapel, too, has ample provision for the security of its priest. There
+are four staircases leading up to it, and a regular rabbit-warren
+between the beams of the roof and the wainscoting, where if needs be he
+could run in case of danger.
+
+"Henry VIII.'s room," and "Charles I.'s room," are both pointed out.
+The latter slept a night here prior to the battle of Edgehill, and the
+bluff king honoured the builder of the mansion, Sir William Compton,
+with a visit in memory of old days, when his host as a boy had been his
+page. Dugdale tells us that Sir William got his building material from
+the ruinous castle of Fulbrooke, so his bricks were mellowed with time
+when the house was first erected. The knight's grandson became Baron
+Compton in Elizabeth's reign, and his son William, Earl of Northampton
+in 1618. A romantic episode in the life of this nobleman was his
+elopement with Elizabeth Spencer of Canonbury Tower, Islington. The lady
+was a very desirable match, being the only daughter of Sir John Spencer,
+the richest heiress of her time. Notwithstanding her strict seclusion at
+Canonbury, Lord William Compton, of whom she was enamoured, succeeded in
+the absence of her father in gaining admission to the house in the
+disguise of a baker, and carried her off in his basket. To perform so
+muscular a feat was proof enough of his devotion, so at the end of a
+year all was forgotten and forgiven. Their son, the valiant second earl,
+Spencer Compton, won his spurs and lost his life fighting for the king
+at Hopton Heath. His portrait by Janssen may be seen at Castle Ashby.
+
+His son James, the third earl, also fought for Charles, and attended his
+son at the Restoration; but his younger brother Henry, Bishop of London,
+aided the Revolution, and crowned Dutch William and his queen.
+
+Only within the last half-century has the mansion been occupied as a
+residence. For nearly a century before it was neglected and deserted.
+The rooms were bare of furniture, for, alas! its contents, including
+Henry VIII.'s State bed, had been removed or sold. That delightful
+writer William Howitt in 1840 said the house had not been inhabited for
+ninety years, with the exception of a portion of the east front, which
+was used by the bailiff. The rooms were empty and the walls were naked.
+His concluding wish fortunately long since has been realised--namely,
+that its noble owner would yet cause the restoration and refitting of
+Compton Wyniates to all its ancient state.
+
+Warwickshire is rich in ancestral houses and mediæval castles. Take, for
+example, the fortresses of Kenilworth, Warwick, Maxstoke, and Tamworth,
+or the fine old houses Coombe Abbey, Charlecote, and Baddesley Clinton.
+The last named perhaps is least known of these, but by no means the
+least interesting. This old moated Hall of the Ferrers family is buried
+in the thickly wooded country on the high tableland which occupies the
+very heart of England. As to the actual centre, there are two places
+which claim this distinction; but oddly enough they are quite twelve
+miles apart. The one between Leamington and Warwick, the other to the
+west of Coventry. The latter spot is marked by the village cross of
+Meriden, and the former by an old oak tree by the main road. Baddesley
+Clinton is nearly equidistant from both, south of Meriden and north-west
+of Leamington and Warwick.
+
+Few houses so thoroughly retain their ancient appearance as Baddesley.
+It dates from the latter part of the fifteenth century, and is a
+singularly well-preserved specimen of a moated and fortified manor-house
+of that period. Like Compton Wyniates, its situation is very secluded in
+its densely wooded park, and formerly there was a double moat for extra
+defence; but for all its retiredness and security, the old house has a
+kindly greeting for those who are interested in such monuments of the
+past. A stone bridge across the moat leads to a projecting embattled
+tower with a wide depressed archway, showing provision for a portcullis
+with a large mullioned window over it. In general appearance the front
+resembles the moated house of Ightham, with which it is coeval, and the
+half-timbered gables of the courtyard are somewhat similar. Unlike
+Charlecote, the interior is as untouched as the exterior. Everywhere
+there are quaint old "linen" panelled rooms and richly carved
+chimney-pieces--windows of ancient heraldic glass, and old furniture,
+tapestry, and paintings. The hall is not like some, that never look cosy
+unless there is a blazing log fire in the hearth. There is something
+particularly inviting in this old room, with its deep-recessed mullioned
+window by the great freestone Jacobean fireplace. What pictures could
+not the imagination conjure up in this cosy corner in the twilight of an
+autumn day! On the first floor over the entrance archway is the
+"banqueting-room," with high coved ceiling and tapestry-lined walls.
+Beyond this is "Lord Charles' room," haunted, it is said, by a handsome
+youth with raven hair. Many years ago this spectre was seen by two of
+the late Mr. Marmion Ferrers' aunts when they were children, and they
+long remembered his face and steadfast gaze. A mysterious lady dressed
+in rich black brocade is occasionally encountered in the corridors in
+broad daylight, like the famous "Brown Lady" of Raynham Hall.
+
+The ancient chapel was set up by Sir Edward Ferrers when the little
+parish church was taken from the family at the Reformation. In the
+thickness of the wall close at hand there is a secret passage which
+leads down to a little water-gate by the moat beneath which a narrow
+passage runs, so that there were two ready means of escape in troublous
+times; and in the roof on the east side of the house there is a priest's
+hole provided with a fixed bench. Marmion Ferrers above alluded to, who
+died in 1884, was the eighth in descent from father to son from Henry
+Ferrers of Elizabeth's time. Both were learned antiquarians. Marmion
+Ferrers was a typical squire of the old school, and we well remember
+with what pride he showed us round his ancestral home. But his pride
+ended there, as is shown by the following anecdote. One day he
+encountered an old woman in the park who had been gathering sticks
+without permission. She dropped her heavy bundle and was about to offer
+apologies for trespassing, when the good old squire, seeing that her
+load was too much for her strength, without a word slung the burden on
+his shoulder and carried it to the woman's humble dwelling.
+
+This calls to mind a story of a contemporary squire who lived some fifty
+miles away in the adjoining county, an antiquary who was also known for
+his acts of kindness and hospitality. In the vicinity of his ancient
+Hall a tramp had found a job, and the baronet was anxious to test his
+butler's honesty. He therefore offered to lend the man a hand and help
+him carry some bundles of faggots into an adjacent yard, if he would
+share profits. This was agreed upon, and when the work was done the
+tramp went off to the Hall to ask for his money, promising to join his
+assistant in a lane at the back of the house. Meanwhile the squire
+hurried to his study, and when the butler made his appearance handed him
+five shillings. Then donning his shabby coat and hat he hastened back.
+Presently the tramp came up with beaming countenance and held out half a
+crown, saying they were both well rewarded with one and threepence each.
+But the assistant grumbled, and said it was miserable pay, and at length
+persuaded the man to return and ask to see the squire and explain the
+amount of work that had been done. Again he returned to his sanctum, and
+hearing the bell ring told the butler to admit the man, and he would
+hear what he had to say. Having enjoyed the fun--the tramp's surprise
+and the butler's discomfort, he dismissed them both--one with half a
+guinea, the other from his service.
+
+Baddesley Clinton church, shut in by tall trees a bow-shot from the
+Hall, is famous for its eastern window of heraldic glass, which shows
+the various noble families with whom the Ferrers intermarried. By the
+union of Marmion Ferrers' father with the Lady Harriet Anne, daughter of
+the second Marquis Townshend, the Chartley and Tamworth lines of the
+family were united with that of Baddesley. The altar tomb of Sir Edward
+Ferrers, Knight, the founder of the family at Baddesley, his wife Dame
+Constance, and son who predeceased him, has above shields of the
+alliances with the Bromes, Hampdens, etc. He was the son of Sir Henry
+Ferrers, Knight, of Tamworth Castle, and grandson of William, Lord
+Ferrers of Groby. Marmion was the thirteenth in descent from this Sir
+Edward, not many links between the fifteenth and end of the nineteenth
+century. The day of the good old squire's burial on August 25, 1884,
+fell upon the three hundred and forty-ninth anniversary of the death of
+the first Ferrers of Baddesley.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[16] There is an engraving of this room in Nash's _Mansions_.
+
+[17] The description was written more than twenty years ago.
+
+
+
+
+SOME NOOKS IN WORCESTERSHIRE
+AND GLOUCESTERSHIRE
+
+
+[Illustration: THE WHITE HOUSE, PIXHAM.]
+
+Not far from Powick Bridge, where after two hours' hard fighting the
+Royalists were defeated by General Fleetwood, stands a quaint old house
+of timber and plaster, with nine gables facing three sides of the
+compass, and a high three-gabled oaken porch in front. It is called
+Priors Court, or the White House of Pixham, and since "the battle of
+Powick Bridge" it has been occupied by the same family, though the name
+by inter-marriage has changed from time to time. A branch of the Lanes
+of Bentley were the representatives in the seventeenth century, and
+according to tradition the famous Jane Lane lived here for a time.
+Though the house belongs to the Tudor period, many alterations were made
+early in the eighteenth century, but the little interior quadrangle
+remains much in its original condition. One expects to find within, the
+usual comfortable chimney corners and cosy panelled rooms, and perhaps
+some ancient furniture; but it comes as a surprise to find a museum of
+relics and heirlooms taking us back to the days of the Tudors and
+Stuarts.
+
+From the hall, we pass up the great oak staircase to bedrooms and
+corridors containing chests and cabinets full of ancient deeds and
+manuscripts, not the least remarkable of which is a parchment roll upon
+which is painted a series of mysterious astrological and other pictures,
+supposed once upon a time to have been the property of the necromancer
+Dr. John Dee, who lived for some time in the neighbouring town of
+Upton-on-Severn. If this is really a document of Dr. Dee's, one would
+like to see it preserved with the famous crystal in the British Museum.
+The old presses and cupboards are full of the richly embroidered
+bed-hangings and homespun sheets wrought by the ladies of the house in
+the days when their energies were devoted to domestic purposes, and the
+idea of hockey or ladies' clubs would have made their hair to stand
+erect. There are piles of arras carefully packed away when wall-paper
+came in fashion. There are chairs and tables dating back three centuries
+or more, and mirrors which have reflected fair faces patched, with
+head-gear piled up mountain high.
+
+In a corner stands a spinning-wheel, distaff, and reel complete, as if
+some dainty damsel at work had fled at the approach of footsteps; and
+there beyond is a dusty pillion which conjures up a picture of Mistress
+Lane seated behind "Will Jackson" upon their way to Bristol. The ancient
+glass and china, too, would whet the appetite of the most exacting
+connoisseur. But we must not linger longer, or we shall envy these
+choice possessions.
+
+[Illustration: PIRTON COURT.]
+
+[Illustration: SEVERN END.]
+
+[Illustration: SEVERN END.]
+
+Pirton Court, not far away, has not been plastered over like many houses
+with elaborate wooden "magpie" work beneath, and the ornamental timber
+in circular design is unimpaired. But the quaintest timber gables were
+those at Severn End, the ancient seat of the Lechmeres, some five miles
+to the south-west. Alas! that this ancient mansion should have been
+destroyed by fire,--a loss as great as that of Clevedon or Ingestre,
+greater, perhaps, as its architecture was so quaint: a delightful
+mixture of the Tudor and Stuart periods to which it was no easy matter
+to fix a date, for the timber portions looked much older than the
+seventeenth century, when they were built by Sir Nicholas Lechmere, a
+nephew of Sir Thomas Overbury, a worthy and learned judge whose
+manuscripts give a very realistic peep into the domestic life of the
+times and the orderly way in which his establishment was conducted. Both
+front and back of the house were strikingly picturesque, but the front
+was the most curious, half black and white angular gables and half
+curved and rounded red-brick Jacobean gables. On either side of the
+entrance porch were two great chimney-stacks, and in the corners where
+the wings abutted, small square towers, one of which was sharpened to a
+point like a lead pencil. At the back, facing smooth lawns (where the
+judge used to sit and study), attached to the main building was what
+looked like a distinct structure, the sort of overhanging half-timbered
+house with carved barge-boards, pendants, and hip-knobs that are
+familiar objects at Shrewsbury or Tewkesbury. The lower part of this was
+of red-brick, and beside it on the right was a smaller abutting
+half-timber gable. The great oak staircases had fantastic newels and
+balusters, and around the panelled hall was a fixed oak settle, and
+armour on the walls: carved oak cabinets and chairs, and tables. The
+room in which Charles I. slept was pointed out, and that of
+Major-General Massey, for Severn End was that great soldier's
+headquarters before the battle of Worcester.
+
+A few miles to the south-west, within the boundary of the once wild
+district, Malvern Chase, is another remarkable old house, Birtsmorton
+Court, a moated and fortified manor-house in a singularly good state of
+preservation. Though quiet and peaceful enough, its embattled gateway
+has a formidable look, showing the teeth of its portcullis, like a
+bull-dog on the alert for intruders. The drawbridge is also there, and
+walls of immense thickness, both speaking of the insecurity of the days
+when it was built. The "parlour," with windows looking out upon the
+moat, is richly panelled with the various quarterings of the ancient
+lords, the Nanfans, executed in colours around the cornice. The arms and
+crest also occur upon the elaborately carved oak fireplace. On the
+left-hand side of this fireplace there was formerly the entrance to a
+hiding-place concealed in the wainscoting, but there is nothing now but
+a very visible cupboard which leads nowhere. Tradition asserts that
+Henry V.'s old associate, Sir John Oldcastle, sought refuge here before
+he was captured and burned as a Lollard. But as that happened in 1417,
+the date does not tally with the period to which the room belongs,
+namely, a century later. But the original apartments have been divided
+(some are dilapidated chambers, now used as a storeroom for Gloucester
+cheeses), so that it is difficult to trace how they were placed. There
+is also a story of a passage running beneath the moat into the adjacent
+woods; but whether Sir John got so far, or whether after his escape from
+the Tower he even got farther than his own castle of Cowling in Kent,
+when he was hunted down by orders of his former boon companions, we
+cannot say. By local report Edward IV. and Margaret of Anjou as well as
+the little Lancastrian Prince of Wales sought shelter at Birtsmorton.
+But for Margaret another house nearer Tewkesbury claims the honour of
+offering a refuge from the battlefield. This is an old timber-framed
+building with carved barge-boards, near the village of Bushley, called
+Payne's Place, or Yew Tree Farm, which once belonged to Thomas Payne and
+Ursula his wife, whose brasses may be seen in the church. In the eastern
+wing of this old house Queen Margaret's bedroom is pointed out. The hall
+with open timber roof is still intact but divided, and upon the oak
+beams a century after the battle of Tewkesbury the following lines were
+painted on a frieze:
+
+  "To lyve as wee shoulde alwayes dye it were a goodly trade,
+  To change lowe Death for Lyfe so hye, no better change is made;
+  For all our worldly thynges are vayne, in them is there no truste,
+  Wee see all states awhyle remayne, and then they turn to duste."
+
+Had the lines existed then, would the poor queen have derived comfort
+when the news reached her of her son's death on the battlefield?
+
+Birtsmorton is associated with the early career of Cardinal Wolsey, for
+here he acted as chaplain during the retirement of Sir Richard Nanfan
+from service to the State. Through Sir Richard's Court influence Wolsey
+was promoted to the service of Henry VIII.
+
+The "Bloody Meadow" near Birtsmorton must not be confused with that near
+Tewkesbury, the scene of the last battle between the Houses of York and
+Lancaster. This one was the scene of a single combat between a Nanfan
+and his sister's lover, in which the latter was slain. The heart-broken
+lady left a sum of money that a sermon should be annually preached at
+Berrow church (the burial-place of the Nanfans) against duelling; and
+this we believe is done to this day. The cruciform church has been
+painfully restored, but contains a fine altar-tomb to Sir John, Sir
+Richard Nanfan's grandfather, Squire of the Body to King Henry VI.; but
+beyond a leper's window and a queer old alms-box there is nothing else
+remarkable.
+
+[Illustration: RIPPLE.]
+
+Two of the prettiest villages hereabouts are Ripple and Strensham, the
+former on the Severn, the latter on the Avon. At Ripple, in a cosy
+corner backed by creeper-grown timber cottages, is the lofty stone shaft
+of the cross, and by the steps at the base the stocks and whipping-post.
+Strensham is famous as the birthplace of the witty author of _Hudibras_.
+It is a peaceful little place, with a few thatched cottages, a fine old
+church near the winding river, embosomed in trees. The church is
+remarkable for its fine rood-loft with painted panels of saints, which
+at some time has been made into a gallery at the west end, and we hope
+may be replaced one of these days.
+
+Following the river Avon to Evesham and Stratford-on-Avon, there are
+many charming old-world villages rich in timber and thatched cottages.
+Such a village is Offenham above Evesham. The village street leads
+nowhere, and at the end of it stands a tapering Maypole, as much as to
+say, "Go on with your modern improvement elsewhere if you like, but here
+I intend to stay"; and we believe it is duly decorated and danced around
+in the proper fashion, though the inhabitants by the "new style" of the
+calendar can scarcely dispense with overcoats. We will not follow the
+course of the river so far as "drunken Bidford" (where the immortal bard
+and some convivial friends are said to have been overcome by the effects
+of the strong ale at the "Falcon"), but turn our steps southwards to
+Broadway, which of recent years has had an invasion from America. But
+the great broad street of substantial Tudor and Jacobean houses deserves
+all the praise that has been lavished upon it. We were there before it
+had particularly attracted Jonathan's eye, and after a fortnight's fare
+of bread and cheese and eggs and bacon (the usual fare of a walking
+tour), we alighted upon a princely pigeon pie at the "Lygon Arms." Under
+such circumstances one naturally grows enthusiastic; but even if the
+fine old hostelry had offered as cold a reception as that at Stilton, we
+could not but help feeling kindly disposed towards so stately a roadside
+inn. Like the "Bell" at Stilton, it is stone-built, with mullioned
+windows and pointed gables; but here there is a fine carved doorway,
+which gives it an air of grandeur. There are roomy corridors within,
+leading by stout oak doors to roomier apartments, some oak panelled, and
+others with moulded ceilings and carved stone fireplaces. One of these
+is known as "Cromwell's room," and one ought to be called "Charles'
+room" also, for during the Civil Wars the martyr king slept there on
+more than one occasion. The wide oak staircase with its deep set window
+on the first landing, reminds one of the staircase leading out of the
+great hall of Haddon. There is a little wicket gate to keep the dogs
+below. Farther up the village street stands Tudor House, which with its
+ball-surmounted gable ends and bay-window with heraldic shields above,
+bears a cloak-and-rapier look about it; but it was built, according to
+the date upon it, when the old Cavalier was poor and soured, and had
+sheathed his sword, but nevertheless was counting the months when the
+king should come to his own again. The house was empty, and presumably
+had been shut up for years. Referring to some notes, we find the
+following memoranda by the friend who was with us upon the occasion of
+our visit. "We could obtain no information as to the ownership, or still
+more important, the holder of the keys. One old man, who might have
+remembered it being built but was slightly hazy on the subject, said no
+one ever went inside. Other inquiries in the village led only to intense
+astonishment at our desire. And the whole concluded in a large
+contingent of the inhabitants standing speechless, marvelling before the
+house itself; in which position we left them and it."
+
+The old church of Edward IV.'s time is now, or was, deserted in favour
+of an early-Victorian one much out of keeping with the village, or
+rather town that it once was.
+
+Another decayed town, once of more importance still, is Chipping
+Campden, four miles to the north-east of Broadway, in a corner of
+Gloucestershire. Here again we have the great wide street with a
+profusion of grey stone gables on either side, and projecting inn signs,
+and sundials in profusion. At one extremity a noble elm tree and at the
+other a huge chestnut, stand like sentinels over the ancient buildings
+that they may not share the fate of the neighbouring manor-house, which
+was burned down by its loyal owner, the third Viscount Campden, during
+the Civil War, to save it from the ignoble fate of being seized and
+garrisoned for the Parliamentarians. From the imposing entrance gate and
+two remaining curious pavilions at either end of a long terrace, one may
+judge it must have been a fine early-Jacobean mansion. Strange that
+Campden House, their ancient town residence, should have perished in the
+flames also, but over two centuries afterwards. Near the entrance gate
+are the almshouses, a very picturesque line of pointed gables and lofty
+chimneys. Above them rises the graceful early-Perpendicular church
+tower, which in design and proportions is worthy of a cathedral. But the
+quaint Jacobean pillared market-house, the Court-house with its handsome
+panelled buttresses, and a house of the time of Richard III. with
+two-storied bay-window, and an ancient hall, are among the most
+interesting buildings in the town. One of the many sign-boards displays
+a poetic effusion by a Campden chimney-sweep, a modernised version of
+the original which ran as follows:
+
+  "John Hunter Campden doe live here,
+  Sweeps chimbleys clean and not too deare.
+  And if your chimbley be a-fire,
+  He'll put it out if you desire."
+
+The "Red Lion" is a typical hostelry of the Stuart days, and a
+contemporary house opposite, bearing the date 1656, is well worth
+notice: the "Green Dragon" also, dated 1690.
+
+The interior of the church is disappointing; its new benches, windows,
+roof, and chancel giving it a modern look; but there are some fine old
+monuments to the ancient lords of the manor, especially that of the
+first Viscount Campden and his countess, and there are some fine
+fifteenth-century brasses in the chancel.
+
+[Illustration: STANTON.]
+
+Norton House, to the north of the town, near Dover Hill (famous for the
+Cotswold games in "the good old days"), is a picturesque, many-gabled
+house; and at Mickleton, to the north-east, there are some curious old
+buildings. Farther north are the remains of Long Marston manor-house,
+still containing the roasting-jack which Charles II. as pseudo
+scullery-man omitted to wind up, and brought the wrath of the cook upon
+his head, much as King Arthur did when he burnt the cakes. But our way
+lies southwards through Broadway to Buckland, Stanton, and a place that
+should be sylvan according to its name--Stanway-in-the-Woods. Buckland
+church and rectory are both of interest. The former has a fine
+Perpendicular tower with some grotesque gargoyle demons at the corners.
+The benches are good, and a window dated 1585 retains some ancient
+painted glass, as the roof does its old colouring, in which the Yorkist
+rose is conspicuous. The hall of the rectory has a fine open-timber roof
+with central arch richly carved, and upon a window is depicted a rebus
+representing one William Grafton, rector of Buckland from 1450 to 1506.
+The manor-house also once possessed a hall with lofty timber-framed roof
+and huge fireplace of the fourteenth century; but, sad to relate, it was
+destroyed when the house was modernised some years ago, but there still
+remains a pretty old staircase of a later date.
+
+Farther south the country becomes more wooded and hilly. The high ground
+rises on the left above Stanton, and at the foot of the hill near the
+village nestle the pretty old church and gabled manor-house, with its
+complement of old farm buildings adjacent. The village street, like
+Broadway, consists of rows of grey stone gables, at the end of which
+stands the sundial-surmounted cross. The interior of the church has not
+been spoiled; the carved oak canopied pulpit towering above the ancient
+pews is quite in keeping with the old-world village. The Stanways are
+about two miles to the south, but there are so few houses that one
+wonders where the children come from to attend the village school. Wood
+Stanway is not disappointing like many places possessing picturesque
+names that we could quote, for it is enveloped in trees, and so is
+Church Stanway for that matter.
+
+[Illustration: STANWAY HOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: STANWAY HOUSE.]
+
+Turning a corner of the road one comes suddenly upon a wonderful old
+gateway with fantastic gables and a noble Jacobean doorway. On one side
+of it is a high garden wall with great circular holes in it, and over
+the wall peep the gables and ornamental perforated parapet of a fine
+mansion of Charles I.'s time. This is always a most fascinating picture;
+but to see it at its best is when the roses are in bloom, for above the
+old wall and through the rounded apertures, the queen of flowers
+flourishes in gay festoons as if rejoicing at its surroundings. But if
+one is so fortunate as to obtain admission to the gardens then may he or
+she rejoice also, for upon the other side of that grey old wall are the
+prettiest of gardens and the grandest trees, one of which, an ancient
+yew, is no less than twenty-two feet in girth. There are terraces, stone
+summer-houses, and nooks and corners such as one only sees in the
+grounds of our ancestral homes. Within, the mansion has been much
+restored and somewhat modernised, but the great hall and other rooms
+take one back to the time of Inigo Jones, who designed the entrance
+gateway. In the churchyard close by is buried the most popular local man
+of his time, Robert Dover. If he lived in our day he surely would be the
+president of the "Anti-Puritanical League," for he it was who made a
+successful crusade against the spirit of religious austerity, the
+tendency of which was to put down holidays of sport and merry-making. As
+a result of his efforts, the hills above Chipping Camden were annually
+at Whitsuntide the scene of a revival of the mediæval days of festivity
+and manly exercise. Upon these occasions the originator acted as master
+of the ceremonies, and was duly respected, for he always wore a suit of
+King James' own clothes. Dover died at the beginning of the Civil War,
+so, fortunately for him, he did not live through the rigid rule of
+Cromwell. The Cotswold games, however, were revived at the Restoration.
+To this public benefactor (the shadow of whose cloak has surely fallen
+on the shoulders of Lord Avebury) Drayton wrote in eulogy:
+
+  "We'll have thy statue in some rock cut out
+  With brave inscriptions garnished about,
+  And under written, 'Lo! this is the man
+  Dover, that first these noble sports began.'
+  Lads of the hills and lasses of the vale
+  In many a song and many a merry tale
+  Shall mention thee; and having leave to play,
+  Unto thy name shall make a holiday."
+
+Yet nobody did set up his statue, as should have been done on "Dover
+Hill" by Chipping Camden.
+
+Some odd cures for certain ailments are prescribed in remote parts of
+the Cotswolds. Garden snails, for instance, which in Wiltshire are sold
+for ordinary consumption, namely, food, as "wall fruit," are used here
+externally as a remedy for ague: and roasted mouse is a specific for the
+whooping-cough. But for the latter complaint as efficacious a result may
+be obtained by the pleasanter mode of riding on a donkey's back nine
+times round a finger-post. This remedy, however, properly belongs to
+Worcestershire.
+
+If we continue in a south-westerly direction we shall pass historic
+Sudeley, near Winchcombe, Postlip Hall, and Southam House. Sudeley
+Castle must have been magnificent before it was dismantled in the Civil
+War. Bravely it stood two sieges, but at length capitulated; and being
+left a ruin by Cromwell's soldiers, the magnificent fifteenth-century
+mansion was left for close upon two centuries to act as a quarry for the
+neighbourhood. Under such disadvantages was its restoration commenced,
+and it is wonderful what has been done; yet there has been a certain
+admixture of Edwardian and Elizabethan portions which is somewhat
+confusing. The banqueting room, with its noble oriel windows (originally
+glazed with beryl), the keep with its dungeons, and the kitchen with its
+huge fireplace four yards across, speak of days of lordly greatness, and
+the names of many weighty nobles as well as kings and queens are closely
+associated with the castle. Richard, Duke of Gloucester, was once
+possessed of it; the youngest son of Owen Tudor and Henry V.'s widow
+lived there; so did Sir Thomas Seymour, Edward VI.'s uncle, who married
+and buried there Henry VIII.'s last queen, at which ceremony Lady Jane
+Grey was chief mourner. Elizabeth was here upon one of her progresses,
+and Charles I. was the last sovereign who slept there. The restored
+rooms are full of historical furniture, pictures, and relics. Here may
+be seen Amy Robsart's bed, or one of them, from Cumnor Hall: and the bed
+upon which the martyr king slept, not here but at Kineton, before
+Edgehill. There are numerous relics of the queen, who had the tact to
+outlive her august spouse, and the foolishness to marry a fourth
+husband. Catherine Parr's various books and literary compositions may
+here be studied, including the letter in which she accepted Seymour's
+offer of marriage. He was by no means the best of husbands, but a vast
+improvement on the royal tyrant who had coldly planned the queen's
+destruction; but owing to her ready wit his wrath was turned upon
+Wriothesley, who was to have arrested her; for when he came to perform
+that office, Henry called him an "an errant knave and a beast." There
+are lockets containing locks of her auburn hair, and portions of the
+dress she wore. But the main interest is centred in the chapel where the
+queen was buried. This building was dismantled with the rest in 1649,
+and the fine Chandos monuments destroyed. Catherine's tomb, which was
+within the altar rails, probably shared the fate of the rest, and its
+position was soon forgotten. However, after the lapse of nearly a
+century and a half, a plain slab of alabaster in the north wall,
+doubtless part of the original monument, led to the discovery of a
+leaden case in the shape of a human form lying immediately below, only a
+foot or so beneath the surface of the ground. Upon the breast was the
+following inscription:
+
+  K. P.
+  Here lyethe QUENE
+  KATERYN wife to KYNG
+  HENRY THE VIII., and
+  Last the wife of Thomas
+  Lord of Sudeley, highe
+  Admiyrall of England
+  And vncle to Kyng
+  Edward the VI.
+  dyed
+  5 September
+  MCCCCC
+  XLVIII.
+
+The cerecloth, hard with wax and gums, was removed from a portion of the
+arm, which was discovered after close upon three centuries to be still
+white and soft. According to another account, when the covering of the
+face was removed, not only the features, but the eyes were in perfect
+preservation. The body was reinterred, but treated with no decent
+respect, for the spot was occupied as an enclosure for rabbits; and upon
+one occasion it was dug up by some drunken men, who by local tradition,
+as a reward for their desecration, all came to an untimely end. The
+alabaster block may still be seen in the north wall of the chapel, but
+the body now lies beneath a recumbent figure in white marble which has
+been placed to the queen's memory.
+
+[Illustration: POSTLIP HALL.]
+
+Postlip Hall stands high in a picturesque spot not far from the main
+road to Cheltenham. It is a many-gabled Elizabethan house, preserving
+its original character, but spoiled by the insertion of plate-glass
+windows. Within there is one particularly fine room of elaborate oak
+carvings (and the arms of the Broadways who built the house) of
+sufficient importance to form the subject of one of the plates in Nash's
+_Mansions_. The house has or had the reputation of being haunted; but
+that was long ago in the days when it stood neglected and uninhabited.
+
+Southam House, or Southam-de-la-Bere, to the south-west (also depicted
+in Nash), is a curious early-Tudor building of timber and stone, and has
+the advantage over Sudeley, as it was not of sufficient military
+importance to be roughly handled by the Parliamentarian soldiers. The
+ancient painted glass in the windows and an elaborate chimney-piece
+bearing shields of arms came from Hayles Abbey. The ceilings are oak
+panelled, and the arms of Henry VII. occur in numerous places. The
+situation of the house is fine, and the view over the vast stretch of
+country towards Worcestershire and Herefordshire magnificent. The
+builder of the mansion was Sir John Huddleston, whose wife was the queen
+Jane Seymour's aunt. The de-la-Beres, to whom the estate passed by
+marriage, were closely allied with the Plantagenet kings, two sisters
+marrying Thomas Plantagenet, Edward III.'s son, and Henry Plantagenet,
+Duke of Lancaster.
+
+Avoiding Cheltenham, we will pick up the road to Stroud at Birdlip, a
+favourite meeting-place of the hounds on account of the surrounding
+woods. Coming from the south there is a gradual climb through those
+delightful woods until you burst upon a gorgeous view, with the ancient
+"Ermine Street" running, like a white wand lying upon the level pattern
+work of meadowland, to Gloucester, and the hills of Malvern away in the
+distance. Whether it was the great dark mass of hill in the foreground
+contrasted against the level stretch of country, or whether it was the
+stormy sky when we visited Birdlip on a late autumnal day, that gave the
+scene such a wild, romantic look, it would be difficult to say, but we
+remember no view with such breadth of contrast of light and shade, or
+one so fitted to lead the imagination into the mystic realms of
+fairyland.
+
+Up in these heights, and in so secluded a spot, it came as a surprise to
+find a museum. This we believe long since has been dispersed by the
+hammer, but we remember some really interesting things. The lady
+curator, the proprietress of the "Black Horse," had been given many of
+the exhibits by the neighbouring gentry, and was not a little proud of
+her collection. Valuable coins, flint weapons, fossils, pictures, and
+the usual medley. There was one little oil painting on a panel, the head
+of a beautiful girl with high powdered hair of the Georgian period,
+which had all the vigour of a Romney, and undoubtedly was by a master
+craftsman. Two curiosities we remember in particular: a pair of leggings
+said to have been worn by the great Duke of Marlborough, and the wooden
+finger-stocks from a village dame-school. It would be interesting to
+know where these curiosities are now. The only other finger-stocks we
+know of are in Ashby-de-la-Zouch church, Leicestershire.
+
+[Illustration: STOCKS, PAINSWICK.]
+
+Painswick, to the south-west, is a sleepy old town with a fine
+Perpendicular church much restored internally, but containing some
+handsome monuments. The churchyard is noted for its formal array of
+clipped yew trees, probably unique. They have the same peculiarity as
+Stonehenge, for it is said nobody can count them twice the same. As,
+however, we did not visit the adjacent inn, we managed to accomplish the
+task. Close to the church wall are the stocks--iron ones.
+
+[Illustration: NAILSWORTH.]
+
+Upon the way to Stroud many weird old buildings are passed which once
+were, and some are still, cloth mills; but some are deserted and
+dilapidated, and have a sad look, as if remembering more prosperous
+days; and when the leaves are fast falling in the famous golden valley
+they look indeed forlorn. One would think there can be little poetry
+about an old cloth mill, but ere one gives an opinion one must visit the
+golden valley in the autumn. Around Nailsworth, Rodborough, and
+Woodchester there are many ancient houses which have degenerated into
+poor tenements. Such a one at Nailsworth has the brief address "No. 5
+Egypt," which by all appearance was an important house in its day. A
+gentleman who resided in a more squalid part related how he had
+discovered a cavalier's rapier up in the roof of a mansion, but in a
+weak moment had parted with it for half a crown. "Southfield" at
+Woodchester is perhaps the most picturesque of these stately houses, a
+house which near London would fetch a formidable rent, but here a
+ridiculously low one. Some six miles out of Stroud a really decent
+house, garden, and orchard may be had for next to a song. A light
+railway may have now sent prices up, by striking northwards, but not
+many years back we saw one very excellent little place "to let," the
+rent of which was only sixpence a week, and the tenant had given notice
+because the landlord had been so grasping as to raise it to sixpence
+halfpenny!
+
+[Illustration: BEVERSTONE CASTLE.]
+
+Between Nailsworth and Tetbury are Beverstone Castle and the secluded
+manor-house Chavenage within a mile of it. The castle stands near the
+road, an ivy-covered ruin of the time of Edward III., but with portions
+dating from the Conquest. Incorporated are some Tudor remains and some
+old farm buildings, forming together a pleasing picture.
+
+To Major-General Massey, Beverstone, like Sudeley, is indebted for its
+battered appearance. It held out for the king, but Massey with three
+hundred and eighty men came and took it by storm. The general having
+done as much damage as possible in Gloucestershire during the Civil War,
+at length made some repairs by fighting on the other side at Worcester;
+and perhaps it was as well, for had he been on the victorious side he
+might have treated "the faithful city" with as little respect as
+Beverstone. In the peaceful days of the Restoration, which Massey
+lived to see, as there were no more castles to blow up he dabbled
+in the pyrotechnic art, suggestive of the pathetic passage in
+_Patience_--Yearning for whirlwinds, and having to do the best you can
+with the bellows.
+
+The regicide squire of Chavenage must also have been skilled in the
+noble art, for by common report at his death a few months after that of
+the martyr king, he vanished in flames of fire! But there was a
+ceremonious preliminary before this simple and effective mode of
+cremation. A sable coach driven by a headless coachman with a star upon
+his breast arrived at the dead man's door, and the shrouded form of the
+regicide was seen to glide into it. But bad as Nathaniel Stephens may
+have been, it is scarcely just that all future lords of Chavenage must
+make their exit in this manner.
+
+The old house is unpretentious in appearance. Built in the form of the
+letter E, it has tall latticed windows lighting a great hall (famous
+once for its collection of armour), and a plain wing on either side,
+with narrow Elizabethan Gothic-headed windows. There is a ghostly look
+about it. It stands back from the road, but sufficiently near that one
+may see the entrance porch (bearing the date 1579) and the ruts of the
+carriage wheels upon the trim carriage drive. Arguments as strong as any
+in _Ingoldsby_ to prove the mystic story must be true.
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS IN NORTHERN
+WILTSHIRE
+
+
+After a sojourn in north-west Wilts it is refreshing to dip into the
+wooded lanes of the Home Counties and see again the red-brick cottages
+and homesteads which have such a snug and homely look after the cold
+grey stone and glaring chalk roads. For old-world villages and
+manor-houses, however, one could not choose a better exploring ground,
+but not, please note, for the craze of picking up bits of old oak,
+judging by what we overheard the very first day we stopped in one of the
+most out-of-the-way places of all.
+
+"Anything old inside?" asked somebody at the doorway, having led gently
+and gracefully up to it so as not to arouse suspicion. "Nothing," was
+the reply. "May I look round inside?" was asked. "No." Then after a
+pause. "Any other of the cottagers got any old chairs, or china?" "One
+or two of them _had_ some, but they sold what they had to Mrs. ---- of
+----." "_Of_ course," was the disgusted reply; "she's _always_ first, and
+gets everything!"
+
+The conversation gives but an idea of the systematic way that a crusade
+for the antique is carried on. If the hunter makes a "find," and the
+owner will not part, that unfortunate cottager is persecuted until he or
+she does part, sooner or later to regret the folly. And, alas! churches
+are not even sacred from these sharks. How often have we not seen some
+curious piece of furniture mentioned as being in the church, and, lo! it
+has vanished--where? And do not the empty brackets over many an ancient
+tomb tell a tale? What have become of the helmets of the ancient lords
+of the manors? We can quote an instance offhand. In the fine old church
+of Bromham, three of the helmets of the manorial lords, the Bayntons,
+are still there, two of them perhaps only funereal helmets, and not the
+actual casques of warfare; but there are three if not four vacant
+brackets which perchance once supported the envied headpieces with
+pointed visor of the fifteenth century. Aloft also are some rusty
+gauntlets, and one of the helmets still bears the crest of the eagle's
+head. The manor descended from the Beauchamps to the Bayntons, the last
+of whom was the nineteenth in descent from Sir Henry Baynton, Knight
+Marshal of the household to Henry the Second. His mother was the eldest
+daughter and co-heiress of John Wilmot, Earl of Rochester, and Miss
+Malet the runaway heiress. A recumbent effigy of Sir Roger Touchet in
+alabaster (resembling in a remarkable degree the late Sir Henry Irving
+as Richard III.) is covered with the carved initials of vandal visitors,
+not, we may add, only of our own and fathers' and grandfathers' time,
+but dating back from the reign of Elizabeth; so it is comforting to see
+that our ancestors were as prone to disfigure monuments in this way as
+is the modern 'Arry. One of the initials, I. W., perhaps may be that of
+the witty and wicked Earl of Rochester, who by repute made Spye an
+occasional residence, although the Bayntons certainly held the estate
+some years after the Lady Anne, his daughter's death in 1703. The
+ceiling of the Baynton chapel is richly carved, and the bosses and
+brackets show their original faded colouring of blue and gold. There are
+also coloured niches for saints; and on a canopied tomb of Elizabeth
+Touchet, a brass of a kneeling figure, and a tablet of the coat of arms
+is enamelled in colours. There also is a fine brass of John Baynton in
+Gothic armour.
+
+[Illustration: GATE-HOUSE, SPYE PARK.]
+
+All that remains of the old Jacobean house of Spye is a subterranean
+passage beneath the terrace; but the Tudor entrance gate to the
+picturesque park stands on the left-hand side of the road to Lacock just
+before the road begins its winding precipitous descent. Evelyn saw the
+house soon after it was built, and likened it to a long barn. The view
+is superb, but, strangely enough, not a single window looked out upon
+the prospect! After dining and a game of bowls with Sir Edward Baynton,
+the Diarist took coach; but, says Evelyn, "in the meantime our coachmen
+were made so exceeding drunk, that in returning home we escaped great
+dangers. This, it seems, was by order of the knight, that all
+gentlemen's servants be so treated; but the custom is barbarous and much
+unbecoming a knight, still less a Christian."
+
+A mile or so to the east of the entrance gate of Spye is Sandy Lane, a
+tiny hamlet with trim thatched cottages and a sturdy seventeenth-century
+hostelry, the "George," looking down the street; and farther along in
+the direction of Devizes stands the "Bell," another ancient roadside
+inn, which, judging from its mullioned windows, knobbed gables, and
+rustic porch, must date back to the days of the first Charles.
+
+In Bromham village also there are some pretty half-timber buildings, not
+forgetting the "lock-up" by the churchyard. The exterior of the church
+is richly sculptured; a fine example of the purest Gothic.
+
+[Illustration: LACOCK.]
+
+[Illustration: LACOCK.]
+
+Sleepy old Lacock, with its numerous overhanging gables, is a typical
+unspoiled village. It was once upon a time a town, but by all
+appearances it never can have been a flourishing one; and let us hope it
+will remain in its dormant state now that there is nothing out of
+harmony, for the Lacock of to-day must look very much as it did two
+hundred years or more ago. It consists mainly of two wide streets, with
+a fine old church at the end of one and a lofty seventeenth-century inn
+at the other. Opposite the latter is a monastic barn with blocked-up
+arched doorway, and facing it a fine row of timbered houses. Wherever
+you go the pervading tone is grey, and one misses the little front
+gardens with bright flowers and creepers. By the school stands the
+village cross. Farther along a great wide porch projects into the
+street, and over it a charming traceried wooden window. Nearer the
+church the road narrows, and a group of timber cottages make a pleasing
+picture, one of them with a wide entrance of carved oak spandrels above
+an earlier stone doorway. The church, a noble edifice, has a very
+graceful spire and some good tombs, including two wooden mural monuments
+to Edward Baynard who lived in Elizabeth's reign, and to Lady Ursula
+Baynard in the reign of Charles I.
+
+The monument of Sir John Talbot of Lacock describes him as born of the
+most noble family of the Duke of Shrewsbury, which is somewhat
+confusing. Sir John was descended from John, second Earl of Shrewsbury,
+who died in 1460, and his monument was erected when the twelfth earl and
+first duke was living. Sir John died in 1713, and his son and heir
+predeceased him, as mentioned on the monument.
+
+[Illustration: LACOCK.]
+
+[Illustration: LACOCK ABBEY.]
+
+But the principal object of interest at Lacock, of course, is its famous
+abbey, the early fifteenth-century cloisters being, it is said, the most
+perfect example in England. It has been a residence since the
+Dissolution, when the estate was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir William
+Sherrington, the daughter of whose brother Sir Henry married a Talbot of
+Salwarpe, the ancestor of the present owner, C. H. Talbot, Esq., a
+learned antiquary, by whose care and skill so many points of interest
+have been brought to light. The cloisters, refectory, chapter-house,
+sacristy, etc., are in an excellent state of preservation, and there
+are some fine hooded fireplaces, and among the curiosities, a great
+stone tank in which fish were kept; and the nuns' cauldron, something
+after the style of Guy of Warwick's porridge-pot. The groined roof of
+the cloister is remarkable, the bosses showing their original colouring,
+nearly two hundred or more all being of different design. The sides
+facing the road are flanked by an octagonal tower of singular beauty,
+ornamented with balustrades, and a staircase turret crowned with a
+cupola. This contains the muniment-room, in which is preserved Henry
+III.'s Magna Charta, which belonged to the foundress, Ela, Countess of
+Shrewsbury, the widow of William Longespee, the son of Henry II. and
+Fair Rosamond. Dugdale tells us that the site "Snaile's Mede" was
+pointed out to this good lady in a vision. An epitaph to the abbess Ela
+may still be seen within the cloisters.
+
+Sir John Talbot of Lacock was a staunch Royalist, and the first person
+who received the Merry Monarch in his arms at Dover upon his landing in
+1660. Both Sir John and his son Sharington Talbot figure as duellists in
+the diaries of Pepys and Evelyn. The former was one of the six
+combatants in that famous encounter at Barn Elms, where Buckingham
+mortally wounded Francis Talbot, the eleventh Earl of Shrewsbury. Sir
+John proved a better swordsman than his antagonist Captain William
+Jenkins, for the latter was left dead upon the field. The Royal pardon
+from Charles II. is still preserved in Lacock Abbey. The duel between
+the younger Talbot and Captain Love at Glastonbury, in July 1685, is
+mentioned by Evelyn. Both commanded a company of militia against
+Monmouth at Sedgemoor, and after the battle an argument arose as to
+which fought the best. The discussion grew heated, swords were drawn,
+and Talbot was killed. He was the eldest and only surviving son of the
+knight, and had he left issue, upon the death of the eleventh Earl of
+Shrewsbury's son, the first and only duke, the Lacock Talbots would by
+priority have become Earls of Shrewsbury.
+
+[Illustration: BEWLEY COURT.]
+
+Beyond the village, just before the road winds upwards towards Spye
+Park, is Bewley Court, an interesting old farm, with trefoil windows and
+Gothic entrance door of fine proportions. Its hall is intact, having its
+wide open fireplace and open timber roof with carved beams. A reed-grown
+canal, with one of those queer hand drawbridges, serves as the moat of
+yore. Bewley by some is corrupted into "Brewery," for close by there is
+such an establishment, and the ancient name has become submerged. There
+are said to have been four Courts originally belonging to Lacock Abbey,
+but this is the only remaining one.
+
+Each approach to Lacock is picturesque, but the most pleasing is from
+the lane which runs up to Gastard and Corsham. This joins the Melksham
+road by a charming old gabled and timbered cottage, not architecturally
+remarkable, but pleasing in outline and colour. From the lane above,
+this roadside cottage stands out against a background of wooded hill,
+and when the sun is low it presents a picture which must have tempted
+many an artist. On the way to Gastard and thence to Neston there are
+many tumble-down old places which seem to be entirely out of touch with
+the twentieth century. But at the highest point there is a startling
+notice which might alarm a motorist should he lose his way up in these
+narrow lanes. "Beware of the trams" is posted up in big letters! You
+look around in astonishment, for silence reigns supreme; but by and bye
+you come upon a stone quarry near the dilapidated entrance to what was
+once probably a manor house, and a light falls upon the meaning of the
+"trams." An artistic projecting signboard not far off bears the
+inscription:
+
+  "Arise, get up the Season now
+  Drive up Brave Boys
+  God speed the Plough."
+
+Up a narrow lane is a tiny chapel with a stone mullioned window cut down
+into a semicircle at the top. A little stone sundial over the entrance
+door, and the smallest burial-ground we have ever seen, are worth
+notice for their quaintness. Farther to the west is Wormwood Farm, whose
+ivy-clad gables give the house a more homely look than most hereabouts.
+Higher up in a very bleak position is Chapel Plaster Hermitage, an older
+building, whose little belfry surely cannot summon many worshippers. It
+was a halting-place of pilgrims to Glastonbury, and in Georgian days of
+lonely travellers, who were eased of their purses by a gentleman of the
+road named Baxter, who afterwards was hung up as a warning on Claverton
+Down. Near the wood, the resort of this highwayman, is Hazelbury House,
+a sixteenth-century mansion, much reduced in size, whose formidable
+battlemented garden walls are worthy of a fortress. It was once a seat
+of the Strodes, whose arms are displayed on the lofty piers of the
+entrance gate. On the other side of the Great Bath road is Cheney Court,
+another gabled mansion which has been of importance in its day, and
+within half a mile, Coles Farm, a smaller building, alas! fast falling
+to decay. Its windows are broken and its panelled rooms are open to the
+weather. We ploughed our way through garden, or what was once a garden,
+waist-high with weeds, to a Tudor doorway whose door presumably was more
+accustomed to be opened than closed. At the foot of the staircase was a
+little wicket gate leading to the capacious cellars. Somebody had
+scrawled above an ancient fireplace close by, a plea against wanton
+mischief; but that was the only sign that anybody was interested in the
+place. But we learned something from an intelligent farmer who was
+picking apples in one of the surrounding orchards. It was very sad, he
+said, but so it had remained for years. The owner was abroad, and though
+various people had tried to buy it, there were legal difficulties which
+prevented it. "But why not find a tenant?" we asked. "That would surely
+be better than allowing it to fall to pieces!" He shook his head. "'Tis
+too far gone," he said, "and there's no money to put it in repair." So
+Coles Farm, situated in the midst of lovely hills and orchards, gives
+the cold shoulder to many a willing tenant.
+
+It is a precipitous climb from here to Colerne, which across the valley
+looks old and inviting from the Bath road. But the place is sadly
+disappointing, and Hunters' Hall, which once upon a time was used as an
+inn and possessed some remarkably fine oak carvings, is now a shell, and
+scarcely worth notice.
+
+[Illustration: CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE.]
+
+The village of Corsham, approached either from the north or south, is
+equally picturesque. By the former there is a long row of sturdy Tudor
+cottages with mullioned windows and deep-set doorways; by the latter,
+the grey gables of the ancient Hungerford Hospital, and beyond the huge
+piers of the entrance to Corsham Court. An inscription over the
+almshouse porch and beneath the elaborate sculptured arms of the
+Hungerfords, says that it was founded by Lady Margaret Hungerford,
+daughter of William Halliday, alderman of London, and Susan, daughter of
+Sir Henry Row, Knight, Lord Mayor of London. The chapel is on the
+right-hand side, and contains the original Jacobean pulpit, seats, and
+gallery. The pulpit is a two-decker, and the seat beneath a comfortable
+armchair of large proportions with an ingenious folding footstool. The
+screen is a fine piece of Jacobean carving, with pilasters and
+semicircular arches of graceful design, with the Hungerford arms upon
+two shields. There is a good oak staircase and a quaint exterior
+corridor leading to the several dwellings, with trim little square
+gardens allotted to each. Corsham Court has a stately and dignified
+appearance. The second entrance gate has colossal piers, which quite
+dwarf the others previously mentioned. Beyond are the stables, a
+picturesque row of Elizabethan gables and pinnacles. The south front of
+the house preserves its original character in the form of the letter E
+with the arms and the crest of the builder, William Halliday, on
+pinnacles over the gables, and seven bay-windows. The interior of the
+mansion has been much modernised, but the picture collection contains
+some of the choicest old masters. Some of Lord Methuen's ancestors by
+Reynolds and Gainsborough are wonderfully vigorous. Here is Vandyck's
+Charles I. on horseback, with which one is so familiar. How many
+replicas must there be of this famous picture! Charles II. hangs
+opposite his favourite son in one of the corridors--a fine portrait of
+the handsome Monmouth. One of the most curious pictures is a group by
+Sir Peter Lely, representing himself in mediæval costume playing the
+violoncello to his own family in light and airy dress. One would have
+thought that he would have clad his wife and daughters more fully than
+some of his famous beauties: on the contrary. The church, whose tower is
+detached, has been restored from time to time, and looks by no means
+lacking in funds. The carved parclose of stone and two altar-tombs to
+the Hanhams are the chief points of interest. There is a simple
+recumbent effigy of one of the Methuens, a little girl, which in its
+natural sleeping pose is strangely pathetic, even to those who know
+nothing of the story of her early death.
+
+[Illustration: CASTLE COMBE.]
+
+Biddestone, above Corsham, has many good old houses round its village
+green. The little bell turret to the church is singular, but the eye is
+detracted by an ugly stove-pipe which sticks out of the roof close by.
+There is some Roman work within, but the high box pews look out of
+keeping. About three miles to the north-west is Castle Combe, one of
+the sweetest villages in Wiltshire or in any other county. It is
+surrounded by hills and hanging woods, and lies deep down and hidden
+from view. As you descend, the banks on either side show glimpses, here
+and there; a grey gable peeping out of the dense foliage or grey
+cottages perched up high. Still downward, the road winds in the shade of
+lofty trees, then suddenly you find yourself looking down upon the
+quaint old market-cross, with the grey church tower peering over some
+ancient roofs. This presumably is the market-place,--not a busy one by
+any means, for beyond an aged inhabitant resting on the solid stone
+base, or perhaps a child or two climbing up and down the steps (for it
+is a splendid playground)--all is still. The village pump alongside the
+cross, truly, supplies occasional buckets of water for the various
+gabled stone cottages around, indeed (as is invariably the case when
+one's camera is in position) people seemed to spring up from nowhere,
+and the pump handle was exceptionally busy. The cross is richly
+sculptured with shields and roses at the base, and the shaft rises high
+above the picturesque old roof, which is supported by four moulded stone
+supports. Undoubtedly it is one of the most perfect fifteenth-century
+crosses in England. The road still winds downwards to a rushing stream
+crossed by a little bridge, and here there is a group of pretty cottages
+with prettier gardens abutting on the road. We have seen these under
+very different aspects, in March with snow upon the creepers, and in
+October when the creepers were brilliant scarlet, and scarcely know
+which made the prettier picture. The sound of rushing water adds romance
+to this sweet village.
+
+The ancient family of Scrope has been seated here for over five
+centuries and a half. The "Castle Inn" by the market-cross remains
+primitive in its arrangements, although the "tripping" season makes
+great demands upon its supplies. Though ordinarily quiet enough,
+occasionally there is a swarm, and a sudden demand of a hundred or so
+"teas" is enough to try the resources of any hostess. But it was too
+much for the poor lady here; her health was bad, and she would have to
+flee before another season came round. Strange to say, it is the
+slackness of business that usually sends folks away. The graceful
+fifteenth-century pinnacled and embattled tower of the church gives the
+ancient building a grand appearance. The church is rich in stained
+glass, containing the arms of the various lords of the manor.
+
+[Illustration: YATTON KEYNELL MANOR.]
+
+Yatton Keynell, a couple of miles eastwards, possesses a fine Jacobean
+manor-house, with a curious porch and very uncommon mullioned window.
+The wing to the right was demolished not many years ago, so that now a
+front of three gables is all that remains; and though it looks fairly
+capacious, there are but few rooms, the space being taken up with
+staircase (a fine one) and attics. The exterior of the church is good,
+but the interior is "as new as ninepence," saving a fine
+fifteenth-century stone rood-screen. The spiral staircase up to the
+summit has been cut through, which is a pity, as otherwise the organ
+would have been less conspicuous. The steps of the village cross now
+serve as a basement for the village inn.
+
+[Illustration: BULLICH MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+The churches of Stanton St. Quinton and Kingston St. Michael have
+suffered internally as much as that of Yatton Keynell, and, alas! the
+fourteenth-century manor-house of the St. Quintons is now no more. An
+aged person working in the churchyard, though very proud that he had
+helped to pull it down, insisted on pointing out the "ould dov-cart"
+This may be pure "Wilshire," but until we saw the dovecot we did not
+grasp the meaning. Nearer Chippenham is Bullich House, which fortunately
+has been left in peace. Beside the entrance gate two queer little
+"gazebos" were covered with Virginia creeper in its bright autumn tints.
+The remains of the clear moat washed the garden wall, over which peeped
+the gables of the house with the waning red sunlight reflected in the
+casements--this was a picture to linger in one's memory; and there is
+no telling how far one's fancy might not have been led by speculating
+upon the meaning of two grim heads which form pinnacles above the porch,
+had the stillness not been broken by the harsh sounds of the gramophone
+issuing from a neighbouring cottage! If Bullich possesses a ghost, as it
+ought to, judging by appearances, surely an up-to-date music-hall ditty
+should "lay" him in the moat in desperation.
+
+[Illustration: SHELDON MANOR.]
+
+[Illustration: SHELDON MANOR.]
+
+About a mile away on the western side of the main road from Chippenham
+to Yatton Keynell is Sheldon Manor, a charming old residence with a
+great Gothic porch like a church, and a Gothic window over it belonging
+to what is called the "Priest's chamber." Upon the gable end, over it,
+is one of those queer little box sundials one occasionally sees in
+Wiltshire. As you enter the porch the massive staircase faces you, with
+its picturesque newels and pendants, and the little carved oak gate,
+which was there to keep the dogs downstairs. In the wall to the right,
+just beyond the entrance door, is a curious stone trough of fair
+capacity. It is screened by a door, and exteriorly looks like a
+cupboard; but what was the use of this trough we are at a loss to
+conjecture, unless in old days the horses were admitted.
+
+[Illustration: SOUTH WRAXALL MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: SOUTH WRAXALL.]
+
+But two of the finest old houses in the county are certainly South
+Wraxall and Great Chaldfield, situated within a couple of miles from one
+another to the west of Melksham. The former has recently been converted
+from a farmhouse again into a mansion, and the latter is now undergoing
+careful restoration. Though the exterior of Great Chaldfield is
+unimpaired, and as perfect a specimen of an early fifteenth-century
+house as one could wish to see, sad havoc has been played inside. The
+great hall many years ago was so divided up that it was difficult to
+guess at its original proportions. The finest Gothic windows with
+groined roofs, ornamental bosses, and fireplaces, and carved oak beams,
+have long since been blocked up and their places filled with mean ones
+of the Georgian period or later. To fully comprehend the wholesale
+obliteration of the original work, one has only to see the thousand bits
+of sculptured masonry laid out upon the lawn of the back garden. To
+place the pieces of the puzzle correctly together must be a task to try
+the knowledge and patience of the most expert in such matters, but piece
+by piece each is going into its proper place. The huge stone heads with
+scooped-out eyes, through which the ancient lord of the manor could
+watch what was going on below in the hall without being observed, once
+again will be reinstated. There are three of them, and the hollowed eyes
+have sharp edges, as if they were cut out only yesterday. Then there is
+an ungainly grinning figure of the fifteenth century, locally known as
+"Blue Beard," who within living memory has sat on the lawn in front of
+the mansion; but his proper place is up aloft on top of one of the gable
+ends, and there, of course, he will go, and, like Sister Ann, be able to
+survey the road to Broughton Gifford to see whether anybody is coming.
+Among the rooms now under course of repair is "Blue Beard's chamber,"
+and naturally enough the neighbouring children of the past generation
+(we do not speak of the present, for doubtless up-to-date education has
+made them far too knowing to treat such things seriously--the more's the
+pity) used to hold the house in holy dread. But there certainly is a
+creepy look about it, especially towards dusk, when the light of the
+western sky shines through the shell of a beautiful oriel window, and
+makes the monsters on the gable ends stand out while the front courtyard
+is wrapt in shade. The reed-grown moat gives the house a neglected and
+sombre look. The group of buildings, with curious little church with its
+crocketed bell turret on one side and a great barn on the other, is
+altogether remarkable. How it got the name of "Blue Beard's Castle" we
+could not learn. Recently a "priest's hole" has been discovered up
+against the ceiling in a corner of his chamber; but whether he concealed
+himself here or some of his wives we cannot say.
+
+At the back of the manor there used to be a tumble-down old mill, which
+unfortunately is now no more. The little church contains a good stone
+screen (which has been removed from its original position), and some
+stained glass in the windows. The pulpit, a canopied two-decker, and the
+capacious high-backed pews (half a dozen at the most) have the
+appearance of a pocket place of worship. But Great Chaldfield is a
+parish by itself without a village; the congregation also is a pocket
+one.
+
+As before stated, South Wraxall manor-house is restored to all its
+ancient dignity; but somehow or other, though much care and money have
+been bestowed upon it, it seems to have lost half of its poetry, for the
+walls and gardens are now so trim and orderly, that it is almost
+difficult to recognise it as the same when the gardens were weed-grown
+and the walls toned with lichen and moss. Moreover, the road has been
+diverted, so that now the fine old gatehouse stands not against the
+highway, but well within the boundary walls. Inside are some remarkably
+fine old rooms with linen panelling. The drawing-room has a superb stone
+sculptured mantelpiece, upon which are represented Prudentia,
+Arithmetica, Geometrica, and Justicia, and Pan occupies the middle
+pedestal supporting the frieze, while four larger figures support the
+mantel. The ceiling is coved, and ornamented with enormous pendants, and
+the cornice above the great bay mullioned-window is enriched with a
+curious design. A remarkable feature of the room is a three-sided
+projection of the wall, the upper part of which is panelled, having
+scooped-out niches for five seats, one in the middle and two on either
+side. The banqueting-room also is a typical room of Queen Elizabeth's
+time, and the "Guest chamber" is one of the many rooms in England which
+claim the honour of inhaling the first fumes from a tobacco-pipe in
+England. But Raleigh's pipe here is said to have been of solid silver;
+moreover, tradition does not state that it was so rudely extinguished as
+elsewhere, with a bucket of water: so, at any rate, here the story is
+more dignified. To settle definitely where Sir Walter smoked his first
+pipe would be as difficult a problem as to decide which was the mansion
+where the bride hid herself in the oak chest, or which was King John's
+favourite hunting lodge.
+
+
+
+
+EASTERN AND SOUTHERN
+SOMERSET
+
+
+[Illustration: THE GEORGE, NORTON ST. PHILIP.]
+
+[Illustration: THE GEORGE, NORTON ST. PHILIP.]
+
+Somersetshire abounds in old-world villages, more particularly the
+eastern division, or rather the eastern side--to the east, say, of a
+line drawn from Bristol to Crewkerne. This line would intersect such
+famous historic places as Wells and Glastonbury, but in our limited
+space we must confine our attention more particularly to more remote
+spots. One of these, for example, is the village of Norton St. Philip,
+midway between Bath and Frome, which possesses one of the oldest and
+most picturesque inns in England. This wonderful timber building of
+projecting storeys dates mainly from the fifteenth century, although it
+has been a licensed house since 1397, and upon its solid basement of
+stone the "George" looks good for many centuries to come. It was
+formerly known as the "Old House," not that the other buildings at
+Norton St. Philip are by any means new. It is merely, comparatively
+speaking, a matter of a couple of hundred years or so.
+
+Many are the local stories and traditions of "Philips Norton Fight," for
+here it was that the Duke of Monmouth's followers had the first real
+experience of warfare; and the encounter with the Royalist soldiers was
+a sharp one while it lasted. Monmouth's intention of attacking Bristol
+had been abandoned, and during a halt at Norton on June 27, 1685, his
+little army was overtaken by the king's forces under the young Duke of
+Grafton, Monmouth's half-brother. The lane where fighting was briskest
+used to be remembered as "Monmouth Street," possibly the same steep and
+narrow lane now called Bloody Lane, which winds round to the back of the
+Manor Farm (some remains of which go back quite a century before
+Monmouth's time), through the courtyard of which the duke marched his
+regiment to attack the enemy in flank. The other end of the lane was
+barricaded, so Grafton was caught in a trap, and had difficulty in
+fighting his way through.
+
+Both armies sought protection of the high hedges, which, take it all
+round, got the worst of it; but Grafton lost considerably more men than
+Monmouth, although a cannonade of six hours on both sides only had one
+victim. An old resident living fifty years ago, whose great-grandfather
+fought for "King Monmouth," used to relate how the duke's field pieces
+were planted by the "Old House," his grace's headquarters; and the
+tradition yet lingers in the inn that Colonel Holmes, on Monmouth's
+side, finished the amputation of his own arm, which was shattered with a
+shot, with a carving knife. Some of the ancient farmhouses between Bath
+and Frome preserve some story or another in connection with "Norton
+Fight," and George Roberts relates in his excellent Life of Monmouth
+that early in the nineteenth century the song was still sung:
+
+  "The Duke of Monmouth is at Norton Town
+  All a fighting for the Crown
+              Ho-boys-ho."
+
+There are some curious old rooms in the "George"; and it is astonishing
+the amount of space that is occupied by the attics, the timbers of which
+are enormous. Up in these dimly lighted wastes, report says that a cloth
+fair was held three times a year; and one may see the shaft or well up
+which the cloth was hauled from a side entrance in the street. The fair
+survives in a very modified form on one of the dates, May 1st. Upon
+the first floor, approached by a spiral stone staircase, is "Monmouth's
+room," the windows of which look up the road to Trowbridge. The open
+Tudor fireplace, the oaken beams and uneven floor, carries the mind back
+to the illustrious visitor who already was well aware that he was
+playing a losing game, and knew what he might expect from the
+unforgiving James. At the back of the old inn is the galleried yard, a
+very primitive one, now almost ruinous, with rooms, leading from the
+open corridors, tumbling to pieces, and floors unsafe to walk upon.
+Through the gaps may be seen the cellars below, containing three huge
+beer barrels, each of a thousand gallons' capacity. A fine stone
+fireplace in one will make a plunge below ere very long.
+
+But Somersetshire owns another remarkable fifteenth-century hostelry,
+the "George" at Glastonbury, in character entirely different from that
+at Norton St. Philip. The panelled and traceried Gothic stonework of the
+front, with its graceful bay-window rising to the roof, is perhaps more
+beautiful but not so quaint, nor has it that rugged vastness of the
+other which somehow impresses us with the rough-and-tumble hospitality
+of the Middle Ages. "Ye old Pilgrimme Inn," as the "George" at
+Glastonbury once was called, was built in Edward IV.'s reign, whose arms
+are displayed over the entrance gateway. Here is, or was, preserved the
+bedstead said to have been used by Henry VIII. when he paid a visit to
+the famous abbey.
+
+A mile or so before one gets to Norton, travelling up the main road from
+Frome, there is one of those exasperating signposts which are
+occasionally planted about the country. The road divides, and the sign
+points directly in the middle at a house between. It says "To Bath," and
+that is all; and people have to ask the way to that fashionable place at
+the aforesaid house. The inmate wearily came to the door. How many times
+had he been asked the same question! He was driven to desperation, and
+was going to invest in some black paint and a brush for his own as well
+as travellers' comfort. But how much worse when there is no habitation
+where to make inquiries! You are often led carefully up to a desolate
+spot, and then abandoned in the most heartless fashion. The road forks,
+and either there is no signpost, or the place you are nearing is not
+mentioned at all. Unless your intuitive perception is beyond the
+ordinary, you must either toss up for it, or sit down and wait
+peacefully until some one may chance to pass by.
+
+[Illustration: CHARTERHOUSE HINTON.]
+
+[Illustration: WELLOW MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+The church and manor-house of the pretty village of Wellow, above Norton
+to the north-west, are rich in oak carvings. The latter was one of the
+seats of the Hungerfords, and was built in the reign of Charles I. In
+the rubbish of the stable-yard, for it is now a farm, a friend of ours
+picked up a spur of seventeenth-century date, which probably had lain
+there since the Royalist soldiers were quartered upon their way to meet
+the Monmouth rebels. Another seat of the Hungerfords was Charterhouse
+Hinton Manor, to the east of Wellow, a delightful old ivy-clad dwelling,
+incorporated with the remains of a thirteenth-century priory. Corsham
+and Heytesbury also belonged to this important family; but their
+residence for over three centuries was the now ruinous castle of
+Farleigh, midway between Hinton and Norton to the east. These formidable
+walls and round towers, embowered in trees and surrounded by orchards,
+are romantically placed above a ravine whose beauty is somewhat marred
+by a factory down by the river. The entrance gatehouse is fairly
+perfect, but the clinging ivy obliterates its architectural details and
+the carved escutcheon over the doorway. But were it not for this natural
+protection the gatehouse would probably share the fate of one of the
+round towers of the northern court, whose ivy being removed some sixty
+years ago brought it down with a run. The castle chapel is full of
+interest, with frescoed walls and flooring of black and white marble.
+The magnificent monuments of the Hungerfords duly impress one with their
+importance. The recumbent effigies of the knights and dames, with the
+numerous shields of arms and their various quarterings, are quite
+suggestive of a corner in Westminster Abbey, though not so dark and
+dismal. Here lie the bodies of Sir Thomas, Sir Walter, and Sir Edward
+Hungerford, the first of whom fought at Crecy and the last on the
+Parliamentary side, when his fortress was held for the king, and
+surrendered in September 1645. His successor and namesake did his best
+to squander away his fortune of thirty thousand pounds a year. His
+numerous mansions were sold, including the castle, and his town house
+pulled down and converted into the market at Charing Cross, where his
+bewigged bust was set up in 1682. His son Edward, who predeceased him
+before he came to man's estate (or what was left of his father's),
+married the Lady Althea Compton, who was well endowed. In the letters
+preserved at Belvoir we learn that the union was without her sire's
+consent. "She went out with Mis Grey," writes Lady Chaworth in one of
+her letters to Lord Roos, "as to a play, but went to Sir Edward
+Hungerford's, where a minister, a ring, and the confidents were wayting
+for them, and so young Hungerford maried her; after she writ to the
+Bishop of London to acquaint and excuse her to her father, upon which he
+sent a thundering command for her to come home that night which she did
+obey." A week later she made her escape. But the runaway couple were
+soon to be parted. Eight months passed, and she was dead; and the
+youthful widower survived only three years. Old Sir Edward lived
+sufficiently long to repent his extravagant habits, for he is said to
+have died in poverty at five score and fifteen!
+
+[Illustration: OLD HOUSE NEAR CROSCOMBE.]
+
+[Illustration: BECKINGTON CASTLE.]
+
+Beckington, about four miles to the south of Farleigh, has another
+castle, but more a castle in name than anything else. It is a fine
+many-gabled house, by all appearances not older than the reign of James
+I. or perhaps Elizabeth. It is close against the road, and practically
+in the village, where are other lofty houses similar in character. There
+is an erroneous tradition that James II. slept here the night before the
+battle of Sedgemoor, regardless of the fact that his sacred Majesty was
+snug in London. The house was long neglected and deserted, and owing to
+stories of ghostly visitors and subterranean passages could not find a
+purchaser at £100! But this was many years ago, as will be seen from an
+advertisement quoted in an old number of _Notes and Queries_. Things are
+different now, for ghosts and subterranean passages have a marketable
+value.
+
+Somersetshire abounds in superstitions as well as in old-world villages.
+From the southern part of the county come tales of people being
+bewitched, and it is a good thing for many an aged crone that their
+supposed offences are thought lightly of nowadays.
+
+Some five years ago a notorious "wise man" of Somerset, known as Dr.
+Stacey, fell down stairs and broke his neck. The doctor's clients
+doubtless had expected a more dignified ending to his career, for,
+judging from his powers of keeping evil or misfortune at arm's-length,
+it was a regular thing for people who had been "overlooked" to seek a
+consultation so as to get the upper hand of the evil influence. His
+patients were usually received at midnight, when incantations were held
+and mysterious powders burned. In most instances this was done where
+there had been continual losses in stock, or on farms where the cattle
+had fallen sick.
+
+A remarkable instance of credulity only the other day came from the East
+End of London, which, happening in the twentieth century, is too
+astonishing not to be recorded here. A young Jewess sought the aid of a
+Russian "wise woman" to bring the husband back who had deserted her. The
+process was a little complicated. Eighteen pennyworth of candles stuck
+all round with pins were burned. Pins also had to be sewn into the
+lady's garments, and some "clippings" from a black cat had to be burned
+in the fire. The cost of these mysterious charms altogether amounted to
+nearly six pounds, which was expensive considering the truant husband
+did not return. During some recent alterations to an old house near
+Kilrush, Ireland, beneath the flooring was discovered a doll dressed
+to personify a woman against whom a former occupant owed a deadly
+grudge. It was stabbed through the breast with a dagger-shaped hairpin,
+which presumably it was hoped would bring about a more speedy death than
+the slower process of melting a diminutive waxen effigy.
+
+Cases of ague in Somerset are said to succumb if a spider is captured
+and starved to death! Consumptives also are said to be cured by carrying
+them through a flock of sheep in the morning when the animals are first
+let out of the fold. It is said to bode good luck if, when drinking, a
+fly should drop into one's cup or glass. When this happens, we have
+somewhere heard, that a person's nationality may be discovered; but beer
+must be the liquid. A Spaniard leaves his drink and is mute. A Frenchman
+leaves it also untouched, but uses strong language. An Englishman pours
+the beer away and orders another glass. A German extracts the fly with
+his finger and finishes his beer. A Russian drinks the beer, fly and
+all. And a Chinaman fishes out the fly, swallows it, and throws away the
+beer.
+
+But enough of these peculiarities.
+
+[Illustration: CROSCOMBE CHURCH.]
+
+[Illustration: CROSCOMBE.]
+
+In the wooded vale between Shepton Mallet and Wells is a pretty
+straggling village of whitewashed houses with Tudor mullioned windows
+and, some of them, Tudor fireplaces within. This is Croscombe, which,
+like Crowcombe in western Somerset, has its village cross, but a
+mutilated one, and a church rich in Jacobean woodwork. The canopied
+pulpit, dated 1616, and the chancel screen, reaching almost to the roof,
+bearing the Royal arms, are perhaps the finest examples of the period to
+be found anywhere. An inn, once a priory, near the cross has panelled
+ceilings and other features of the fifteenth century. Some old cloth
+mills, with their emerald green mill-ponds, are one of the peculiarities
+of Croscombe. Shepton Mallet is depressing, perhaps because crape is
+manufactured there. A lonely old hostelry to the south of the town known
+as "Cannard's Grave," not a cheery sign under the most favourable
+circumstances, but with padlocked doors and windows boarded up as we saw
+it, had a forbidding look, and seemed to warrant the mysterious stories
+that are told about it. The cross in the market-place was erected in
+1500, but it has been too scraped and restored to classify it with those
+at Cheddar or Malmesbury. The church contains a fine oak roof and some
+ancient tombs, mainly to the Strodes, an important Somersetshire family
+with Republican tendencies, one of whom harboured the Duke of Monmouth
+in his house the night after his defeat at Sedgemoor. The remains of
+this house, "Downside," stand about a mile from Shepton Mallet, but it
+has been altered and restored from time to time, so that now it has
+lost much of its ancient appearance. The pistols which the duke left
+here remained in the possession of descendants until about eight years
+ago, when they were lost. Monmouth's host, Edward Strode, also owned
+what is now called "Monmouth House," from the fact that the duke slept
+there on June 23rd and 30th, 1685, upon his march from Bridgwater
+towards Bristol and back again. Monmouth's room may yet be seen, and not
+many years ago possessed its original furniture.[18]
+
+[Illustration: LYTES CARY MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: LYTES CARY MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: FIREPLACE, LYTES CARY.]
+
+At Cannard's Grave we strike into the old Foss way, and if we follow it
+through West Lydford towards Ilchester we shall find on the left-hand
+side, a quarter of a mile or so from the road, Lytes Cary, one of the
+most compact little manor-houses in western England. But the fine old
+rooms are bare and almost ruinous. The arms of the Lytes occur in some
+shields of arms in the "decorated" chapel (which is now a cider cellar),
+and upon a projecting bay-window near a fine embattled and pierced
+parapet. The hall is entered from the entrance porch (over which is a
+graceful oriel), and has its timber roof and rich cornice intact. On the
+first floor is a spacious panelled room with Tudor bay-window (dated
+1533) and open fireplace, which if carefully restored would make a
+delightful dwelling room; and it seems a thousand pities that this and
+other apartments dating from the fourteenth century should be in their
+present neglected state. The front of the manor-house reminds one of
+Great Chaldfield in Wiltshire, but on a smaller scale and exteriorly
+less elaborate in architectural detail.
+
+The eastern corner of the western division of Somerset is especially
+rich in picturesque old villages and mansions--that is to say, the
+country enclosed within or just beyond the four towns Langport,
+Somerton, Chard, and Yeovil. Within this area, or a mile or so beyond,
+we have the grand seats of Montacute, Brympton D'Eversy, Hinton St
+George, and Barrington Court; the smaller but equally interesting
+manor-houses of Sandford Orcas, South Petherton, and Tintinhull, and the
+quaint old villages and churches of Trent, Martock, Curry Rivel, etc.
+
+[Illustration: ANCIENT SCREEN. CURRY RIVEL CHURCH.]
+
+The ancient county town of Somerton having been left severely alone by
+the railway, remains in a very dormant state, and, of course, is
+picturesque in proportion, as will be seen by its octagonal canopied
+market-cross and the group of buildings adjacent Langport lies low, and
+is uninviting, with marshy pools around, with to the north-west
+Bridgwater way the villages of Chedzoy, Middlezoy, and Weston Zoyland,
+full of memories of the fight at Sedgemoor. The church of Curry Rivel,
+to the west of Langport, has many ancient carvings, and retains its
+beautiful oak screen and bench-ends of the fifteenth century. Within its
+ancient ornamented ironwork railing is a curious Jacobean tomb,
+representing the recumbent effigies of two troopers, Marmaduke and
+Robert Jennings. It seems selfish that they should thus lie in state
+while their wives are kneeling below by two little cribs containing
+their children tucked up in orderly rows like mummified bambinoes. On
+the summit of a circular arch above, five painted cherubs are reclining
+at their ease, and chained to one of the iron railings is a little
+coffer which gives a touch of mystery to the whole. What does this
+little sealed coffer contain?--for it must have been in its present
+position since the monument was erected. Are the warriors' hearts
+therein, or the bones of the five bambinoes? There is another Jacobean
+tomb, just like a cumbrous cabinet of the period. It is hideous enough
+for anything, and obscures one of three interesting fourteenth-century
+mural monuments.
+
+In the old farmhouse of Burrow, near Curry Rivel, some swords and
+jack-boots of the time of Charles II. were preserved. They are now in
+the museum at Taunton, where we regret to say the buckle worn by the
+Duke of Monmouth, and Lord Feversham's dish are now no longer[19] with
+the other interesting relics of the fight at Sedgemoor.
+
+[Illustration: BARRINGTON COURT.]
+
+At Barrington Court and White Lackington manor-house, both near
+Ilminster, Monmouth was entertained in princely state during his
+progress through the western counties to win popularity. The latter is a
+plain gabled house (a portion only of the original) which has suffered
+by the insertion of sash windows. It seems to bear out its name, for it
+is very white and staring. But Barrington is one of the most perfect
+Elizabethan houses in Somersetshire, that is to say exteriorly, for the
+inside has long since been stripped and modernised. The myriad of
+pinnacles upon its gable ends, and its general appearance, recall the
+stately Sussex mansion Wakehurst: the situation, however, is vastly
+different, for it stands bare of trees on a wide extensive flat. The
+Spekes of White Lackington and the Strodes of Barrington, it goes
+without saying, were notorious Whigs; and though the duke's hosts
+favoured his cause, they both managed to save their necks when the
+terrible Jeffreys came down upon his memorable Progress. But the name of
+Speke was enough for the judge, and the youngest son of White
+Lackington, whose sins did not extend beyond shaking hands with his
+father's illustrious guest, was swung up on a tree at Ilminster. In
+the lovely fields around the manor-house it is difficult to imagine a
+throng of twenty thousand who accompanied the popular duke. The giant
+Spanish chestnut tree beneath which Monmouth dined in public, and which
+had braved the tempests of many centuries, fell, alas! a victim to the
+storm of March, 2, 1897, and with the destruction of "Monmouth's tree" a
+link with 1680 has departed never to return. Barrington, we understand,
+has recently been taken under the protecting wing of the Society for the
+Preservation of Ancient Buildings, for which all those interested in
+domestic architecture as well as buildings of historic association must
+feel grateful.
+
+[Illustration: HINTON ST. GEORGE.]
+
+The little town of South Petherton, midway between Ilminster and
+Ilchester, is full of old nooks and corners, from its ancient cruciform
+church to the old hostelry in the High Street. From a very early date it
+was a place of great importance; but since the days of the Saxon monarch
+who resided there, the Daubeneys have stamped their identity upon King
+Ina's palace, of which there are picturesque Tudor remains incorporated
+in a modern dwelling, which to our mind has robbed it of the poetry it
+possessed when in a ruinous condition. The villages of Martock above and
+Hinton St George below are also full of interest; and both possess
+their ancient market-crosses, but now curtailed and converted into
+sundials with stone-step massive bases. But the glory of Martock is its
+grand old church (where Fairfax and Cromwell offered up a prayer for the
+capture of Bridgwater in 1645), whose carved black oak roof is one of
+the finest in the west of England.[20] The ancient seat of the Pouletts
+is an extensive but by no means beautiful house. It has a squat
+appearance, being only two storeys high, with battlemented towers at the
+angles and Georgian and Victorian Gothic sash-windows; but on the
+southern side, a pierced parapet and classic windows give it a less
+barrack-like appearance. Sir Amias Poulett (or Paulet, as it was
+formerly spelled), the grandson of the builder of the house, who won his
+spurs at the battle of Newark-on-Trent, is principally famous from the
+fact that he put Wolsey in the stocks when that great person held the
+living of Lymington, and upon one occasion took more than was good for
+him. But the cardinal afterwards had his revenge, and put fine upon Sir
+Amias to build the gate of the Middle Temple, which formerly bore the
+prelate's arms elaborately carved, as a peace-offering from Sir Amias.
+Lymington in Hampshire is often associated with the stocks' episode, but
+Lymington near Ilchester, and some ten miles from Hinton, was the place.
+Sir Amias had the custody of Mary Queen of Scots during the latter part
+of her long imprisonment, and to him the "Good Queen" (?) more than
+hinted that it would be a kindness to hasten her victim's end by private
+assassination. Paulet, however, had a conscience, so Elizabeth had to
+take upon herself the responsibility of Mary's execution.
+
+The historic stocks of Lymington are now no more, but beneath a big elm
+tree on the village green at Tintinhull, close by, they still are
+flourishing. Tintinhull, like Trent and other neighbouring villages, is
+full of picturesque old houses, sturdy stone Jacobean and Tudor
+cottages, with garden borderings of slabs of stone set up edgeways, and
+slabs of stone running along the footway in a delightfully primitive
+fashion. Tintinhull Court is a stately old pile dating from the reign of
+Henry VIII. Its oldest side faces the garden, but the main front is a
+good type of the seventeenth century. We will not repeat here the
+particulars of Charles II.'s concealment at the old seat of the Wyndhams
+after the battle of Worcester;[21] but on the spot, and though the
+greater part of the house has been rebuilt, one may realise the
+incidents in that romantic episode, for the village of Trent to-day is
+much the same as the village of 1651.
+
+[Illustration: SANDFORD ORCAS MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+The manor-house of Sandford Orcas, to the north-east of Trent (which by
+the way now belongs to Dorset), is quite a gem of early-Elizabethan
+architecture, with crests upon the gable ends, and the Tudor and Knoyle
+arms and graceful panels upon the warm-coloured walls of Ham Hill stone.
+Though a small house, it has its great hall with carved oak screen; and
+most of the rooms are panelled, and have their original fireplaces. The
+wide arched Tudor gateway spanning the road bears the arms of the
+Knoyles, a monument to whom may be seen in the south aisle of the church
+close by, the tower of which rises picturesquely above the gabled roof
+of the manor-house. The village, the little there is of it, is buried in
+orchards, between which the mill-stream winds, the haunt of a colony of
+quacking ducks whose noisy gossip makes up for the paucity of
+inhabitants.
+
+Some eight miles away, on the other side of Yeovil, there is a
+manor-house, which for picturesqueness must take the palm of even
+Sandford Orcas. This is Brympton D'Eversy, a remarkable mixture of the
+domestic architecture of the fifteenth, sixteenth, and seventeenth
+centuries. One would think that the various styles would not harmonise,
+but they do in a remarkable degree. Add to these the styles of the
+thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, which are conspicuous in portions
+of the adjacent church, and there is indeed a field from which to study.
+The northern front of the mansion, with its embattled Gothic bays and
+rows of latticed windows, is flanked by the quaint little turreted
+church, and together they form a most striking group not only in
+outline, but attractive in colour, for grey-green lichens and the
+peculiar rusty tint of stone blend in perfect sympathy. Picture this
+house and church in crude white stone, unmellowed and toned by time, and
+half its charm would be gone. Does not this open up a question worth
+consideration? A modern house is built with conscientious exactitude in
+imitation of some beautiful existing example of Gothic or Renaissance
+architecture. Every detail is perfect, but the result is harsh and new.
+One must wait almost a lifetime before it makes a picture really
+pleasing to the eye. Therefore why not take some measures to tone down
+the staring stone or obtrusive red-brick before the masonry is
+constructed? True, there are a few exceptions where additions have been
+made to ancient houses, which cannot be detected; but in the case of an
+entirely new house, does it often occur to the builder how much more
+pleasing would be the result if the exterior of his house were more in
+harmony with the old oak fittings and ancient furniture with which it is
+his ambition to fill it? Would that all such houses were built of Ham
+Hill stone, for it has the peculiarity of imparting age much more
+rapidly than any other.
+
+[Illustration: MONTACUTE HOUSE.]
+
+It is this that gives so venerable an appearance to Montacute House;
+for, compared with many mansions coeval with it, the ancestral seat of
+the Phelips family looks quite double the age. The imposing height of
+Montacute as compared, for instance, with Hinton St. George, gives it
+stateliness and grandeur, while the other has none. Like Hardwick, the
+front of the house is one mass of windows; but it has not that formal
+spare appearance, for here there are rounded gables to break the
+outline. In niches between the windows and over the central gable stand
+the stone representations of such varied celebrities as Charlemagne,
+King Arthur, Pompey, Cæsar, Alexander the Great, Moses, Joshua, Godfrey
+de Bouillon, and Judas Maccabeus. They look down upon a trim old garden
+walled in by a balustraded and pinnacled enclosure, with Moorish-like
+pavilions or music-rooms at the corners. As a specimen of elaborate
+Elizabethan architecture within and without, Montacute is unique. In
+Nash's _Mansions_ there is a drawing of the western front, which is
+still more elaborate in detail, and is earlier in date than the rest of
+the house; and this may be accounted for as it was added when Clifton
+Maybank (another house of the Phelips') was dismantled many years ago.
+But of this old house there are yet some interesting remains.[22] Inside
+there is a similarity also to Hardwick with its wide stone staircase and
+its ornamental Elizabethan doorways and fireplaces. The hospitality in
+the good old days was in keeping with the lordly appearance of the
+mansion. Over the entrance may still be read the cheery greeting:
+
+  "Through this wide opening gate,
+  None come too early, none return too late."
+
+But in these degenerate days the odds are that advantage would be taken
+of such hospitality; and one marvels at the open-handed generosity such
+as existed at old Bramall Hall in Cheshire, where the common road led
+right through the squire's great hall,[23] where there was always kept a
+plentiful supply of strong ale to cheer the traveller on his way. There
+can have been but few tramps in those days, or they must have been far
+more modest than they are to-day.
+
+[Illustration: MONTACUTE PRIORY.]
+
+Montacute Priory, near the village, has a fine Perpendicular tower and
+other picturesque remains. To see it at its best, one should visit the
+village late in autumn, when the Virginia creeper, which covers the
+ancient walls, has turned to brilliant red. Other buildings under
+similar conditions may look as lovely, but we can recollect nothing to
+equal this old farmstead in its clinging robes of gold and scarlet.
+
+There are many interesting old inns in this part of Somersetshire,
+notably in the town of Yeovil, where the "George" and "Angel" are
+_vis-à-vis_, and can compare notes as to whose recollections go back the
+farthest. The wide open fireplaces and mullioned windows of the former
+are of the time of Elizabeth or earlier, but the stone Gothic arched
+doorway and traceried windows of the latter can go a century better. But
+important as they both have been in their day, neither has had the luck
+or energy to keep pace with the times sufficiently to hold younger
+generations of inns subservient. The old "Green Dragon" at Combe St.
+Nicholas, near Ilminster, possessed a remarkable carved oak settle in
+its bar-parlour. It was elaborately carved, the back being lined with
+the graceful linen-fold panels. At the arm or corner were two figures,
+one suspended over the other, the upper one representing a bishop in the
+act of preaching. They were known as "the parson and clerk"; but when we
+saw the settle the "parson" was missing, having mysteriously disappeared
+some time before. The "clerk" was so worn out, having occupied his post
+so for centuries, that his features were scarcely recognisable; but who
+can wonder when he had been preached to for close upon four hundred
+years! To be "overlooked" in remote parts of Somersetshire means certain
+misfortune. Many a poor unoffending old woman, suspected of
+"overlooking" people, has been knocked on the head that her blood might
+be "drawn" to counteract the spell. Probably the parson's attitude
+aroused suspicion, and he was quietly put away; but as his head had not
+been broken neither had the spell, and the last we heard of the "Green
+Dragon" was that it had been burnt down.
+
+The old landlady we remember had a firm belief that the death of one of
+her sons was foretold by a death's-head moth flying in at the window and
+settling on his forehead when he was asleep in his cradle. The child, a
+beautiful boy, then in perfect health, was doomed, and her eldest son
+immediately set forth with his gun to shoot the first bird he chanced to
+see, to break the spell. However, that night the child died; and upon
+the wall in a glass case was the stuffed bird as well as the moth, a
+melancholy memento of the tragedy of thirty years ago.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[18] See _King Monmouth_.
+
+[19] Illustrations of these relics are in _King Monmouth_.
+
+[20] The open roof of the manor-house, now a cooper's shop, is also
+worth inspection.
+
+[21] See _The Flight of the King_ and _After Worcester Fight_.
+
+[22] See illustration in _King Monmouth_.
+
+[23] This was formerly the case at "Payne's Place," Worcestershire, a
+house mentioned in another chapter.
+
+
+
+
+IN WESTERN SOMERSET
+
+
+Some of the prettiest nooks of old-world "Zoomerzet" are to be found
+under the lovely heather-clad Quantock Hills. The beauty of the scenery
+has inspired Coleridge, Wordsworth, and many famous men, not the least
+of whom was poor Richard Jeffreys, who has written sympathetically of
+the delightful vale to the west of the range.
+
+To the north and north-west of Taunton the churches of Kingston and
+Bishop's Lydeard are both remarkable for their graceful early-Tudor
+towers. Of the two, the former is the finer specimen of Perpendicular
+work, the soft salmon-yellow colour of the Ham stone being particularly
+pleasing to the eye. The situation of the church is fine, commanding
+grand views; and at the intersection of the roads to Asholt and
+Bridgwater one gets a glorious prospect of Taunton and the blue
+Blackdown Hills beyond on one side, and on the other the sea and the
+distant Welsh mountains.
+
+Both churches have good bench-ends full four hundred years old, the
+designs upon them being as clearly cut as if they had been executed only
+a few years ago. One of them at Bishop's Lydeard represents a windmill,
+from which we gather that those useful structures were much the same as
+those with which we are familiar to-day.
+
+At Cothelstone to the north, approached by a romantic winding road
+embosomed in lofty beech trees which dip suddenly down into a
+picturesque dell, the church and manor-house nestle cosily together,
+surrounded by hills and hanging woods. It is a typical Jacobean
+manor-house of stone, with ball-surmounted gables and heavy mullioned
+windows, approached from the road through an imposing archway, with a
+gatehouse beyond containing curious little niches and windows. In the
+gardens an old banqueting-room and ruined summer-house complete the
+picturesque group of buildings. The church has some fine tombs. One of
+the lords of the earlier manor-house reclines full length in Edwardian
+armour, his gauntleted hands bearing a remarkable resemblance to a pair
+of boxing-gloves. A descendant, Sir John Stawel, who fought valiantly
+for Charles in the Civil War, lies also in the church. For his loyalty
+his house was ruined and his estate sold by the Parliament, but his son
+was made a peer by the Merry Monarch in acknowledgment of his father's
+services. "The Lodge," an old landmark at Cothelstone, can boast a view
+of no less than fourteen counties, and from a gap in the Blackdown
+Hills, Halsdown by Exeter may be seen, while close at hand Will's Neck
+looms dark against the sky.
+
+[Illustration: CROWCOMBE.]
+
+[Illustration: OLD HOUSE, CROWCOMBE.]
+
+Beneath the rolling Quantocks the road runs seawards, and at Crowcombe,
+embowered in woods, brings us to another picturesque group: the church
+on one side and a dilapidated Tudor building on the other. It is called
+the "Church House," and, alas! by its ruinous condition one may judge
+its days are numbered, although its solid timber Gothic roof, now open
+to the sky, looks still good for a couple of centuries more. A crazy
+flight of stone steps leads to the upper storey, or rather what remains
+of it, the floor boards having long since disappeared. In the basement,
+nature has asserted itself, and weeds and brambles are growing in
+profusion. This lower part of the building was once used as almshouses,
+the Tudor-headed doors leading into the several apartments. The upper
+storey was the schoolroom, and had a distinct landlord from the
+basement. Difficulties consequently arose; for when the owner of the
+schoolroom suggested restorations to the roof, the proprietor of the
+almshouses declined to participate in the expense, declaring that it was
+his intention to pull his portion of the building down! A more
+striking example of a house divided against itself could not be found,
+hence the forlorn condition of the joint establishment of youth and age.
+
+[Illustration: CROWCOMBE CHURCH.]
+
+There are fine carved bench-ends in the church, one bearing the date
+1534 in Roman figures. Upon another is represented two men in desperate
+combat with a double-headed dragon. In the churchyard there is a cross,
+and facing the village street another, the cross complete, which is
+exceptional.
+
+Crowcombe Court, a stately red-brick house of the latter part of the
+seventeenth century, has replaced the older seat of the Carews. Among
+the fine collection of Vandycks is a full-length of Charles I. and his
+queen, given by the second Charles to the family in acknowledgment of
+their loyalty. Queen Henrietta looks prettier here than in many of her
+portraits. There is also a fine Vandyck of James Stuart, Duke of
+Richmond, and of Lady Herbert, and some of Lely's beauties, including
+Nell Gwynn and the Countess of Falmouth, whose buxom face recalls some
+of de Gramont's liveliest pages.
+
+A few miles to the east of Crowcombe, on the other side of the range of
+hills, is the moated castle of Enmore, whose ponderous drawbridge can
+still be raised and lowered like that at Helmingham. It is a formidable
+barrack-like building of red stone, not of any great antiquity. In the
+earlier structure lived Elizabeth Malet, the handsome young heiress with
+whom the madcap Earl of Rochester ran away. Pepys on May 28, 1665,
+relates "a story of my Lord Rochester's running away on Friday night
+last with Mrs. Mallett, the great beauty of fortune and the north, who
+had supped at Whitehall with Mrs. Stewart, and was going home to her
+lodgings with her grandfather my Lord Haly [Hawley] by coach; and was at
+Charing Cross seized on by both horse and foot men, and forcibly taken
+from him and put into a coach with six horses, and two women provided to
+receive her, and carried away. Upon immediate pursuit, my Lord of
+Rochester (for whom the king had spoken to the lady often, but with no
+success) was taken at Uxbridge; but the lady is not yet heard of, and
+the king mighty angry, and the lord sent to the Tower." As may be
+supposed, with so flighty a husband the pair did not live happily ever
+after.[24]
+
+The Enmore estate passed to Anne, the eldest of their three daughters,
+who married a Baynton of Spye Park near Melksham, where memories of the
+profligate earl linger, as they do at Adderbury.
+
+The famous "Abode" at Spaxton, as impenetrable as Enmore although it has
+no drawbridge, is close at hand. An adjacent hill, locally said to be a
+short cut to heaven, commands a superb view of the surrounding country.
+The original founder of the sect could scarcely have found a prettier
+nook in England.
+
+A few miles to the north-west of Crowcombe is the picturesque village of
+Monksilver, the church of which is rich in oak carvings of the fifteenth
+century. The pulpit and bench-ends are particularly fine, but the screen
+has been much mutilated. There are some grotesque gargoyles, one
+representing a large-mouthed gentleman having his teeth extracted.
+
+[Illustration: COMBE SYDENHAM.]
+
+[Illustration: COMBE SYDENHAM.]
+
+Near Monksilver is the old seat of the Sydenhams, Combe Sydenham, a fine
+old mansion, whose lofty square tower is un-English in appearance. The
+house was built by Sir George Sydenham in 1580, who is locally said
+still to have an unpleasant way of galloping down the glen at midnight.
+Perhaps he is uneasy in his mind about the huge cannon-ball in the hall,
+which he is said to have fired as a sign to his lady-love that he was
+going to follow after and claim her as his bride. There are portraits of
+some bewigged Sydenhams of the following century, the famous doctor,
+perchance, and his soldier brother, Colonel William the Parliamentarian.
+Some rusty old swords hang on the walls, and there is a curious painted
+screen of Charles II.'s time which is sadly in need of repairs. The
+servants' hall, with its open fireplace and tall-backed settle, remains
+much as it has been for two hundred years or more. All these things
+point to the fact that the same family has been in possession for
+generations: at least it was owned by a Sydenham not so many years ago.
+An effigy of Sir George with his two wives (perhaps this is the cause of
+his uneasiness) may be seen in Stogumber church, about a mile away.
+
+At the back of Combe Sydenham are the remains of an old mill. The wheel
+has disappeared, and the waterfall splashing in the streamlet below,
+together with an ancient barn adjacent, form a delightful picture.
+
+To the west is Nettlecombe, a fine old gabled house, dating from the
+latter part of Elizabeth's reign, containing ancestral portraits of the
+Trevelyans and some curious relics, among which is a miniature of
+Charles the martyr worked in his own hair. The estate belonged
+originally to the Raleighs, whose name is retained in Raleigh Down and
+Raleigh's Cross by Brendon Hill.
+
+Elworthy church, to the south-east, commands a fine position, and boasts
+a painted screen bearing the date 1632 and some carved bench-ends. But
+the churchyard looked sadly neglected and weed-grown. The great limb of
+a huge yew tree overhangs the stocks, which we are grateful to observe
+have been restored, and not allowed to decay as those at Crowcombe.
+
+From here we went farther to the south-east in search of a place locally
+called "Golden Farm," or properly Gaulden, where, depicted on a plaster
+ceiling of ancient date, are various scenes from biblical history, from
+the temptation of Adam downwards. Now, whether the good gentleman who
+rents the farm has been besieged by classes for the young anxious to
+learn on the Kindergarten system, or whether the arms of the Turberville
+family that figure upon a mantelpiece has connected the house with a
+certain well-known novel and brought about an American invasion, the
+fact remains that his equanimity has evidently become disturbed. His
+door was closed, and he was proud that he could boast that he had turned
+people away who had come expressly across the Atlantic! Sadly we turned
+away, but with inward congratulations that we had not come quite so far,
+when, lo! the worthy farmer showed signs of relenting. We might come in
+for half a guinea, he said condescendingly. We thanked him kindly and
+declined, observing that the fee at Windsor Castle was more than ten
+times less. 'Tis little wonder that they call it "Golden Farm."
+
+Equidistant from Monksilver to the north-west is Old Cleeve, a pretty
+little village near the coast, whose ruined Cistercian abbey has nooks
+and corners to delight the artist or antiquarian. The grey old
+gatehouse, with a little stream close by, make a delightful picture,
+indeed from every point of view the ancient walls and arches, with their
+farmyard surroundings, form picturesque groups. In one of the walls is a
+huge circular window: the rose window of the sacristy that has lost its
+tracery. Viewed from the interior, the round picture of blue sky and
+meadows gay with buttercups makes a striking contrast with the deep
+shadow within the cold grey walls. A flight of stone steps leads to the
+refectory, whose rounded carved oak roof and projecting figure ornaments
+and bosses are in excellent preservation. There is a great open
+fireplace and the tracery in the windows is intact. A painting in
+distemper on the farther wall represents the Crucifixion, and as far as
+artistic merit is concerned better by far than the colossal figure
+conspicuous in the Roman Catholic cathedral at Westminster.
+
+[Illustration: DUNSTER.]
+
+The road from here to Dunster is delightful, and as you approach the
+quaint old town--for it is a town, difficult as it is to believe it--the
+castle stands high up on the left embosomed in trees, a real fairy-tale
+sort of fortress it appears, with a watch-tower perched up on another
+wooded hill to balance it. The Luttrells have lived here for centuries,
+and during the Civil War it was for long a Royalist stronghold, held by
+Colonel Wyndham, the governor. The gallant colonel's spirited answer to
+the threat of the Parliamentarians to place his aged mother in their
+front ranks to receive the fury of his cannon should he refuse to
+deliver up the castle, is a fine example of loyalty. "If ye doe what you
+threaten," he said, "you doe the most barbarous and villanous act was
+ever done. My mother I honour, but the cause I fight for and the masters
+I serve, are God and the King. Mother, doe you forgive me and give me
+your blessing, and tell the rebells answer for spilling that blood of
+yours which I would save with the loss of mine own, if I had enough for
+both my master and your selfe." But fortunately matters did not come to
+a climax, for Lord Wentworth appeared upon the scene with a strong force
+and relieved the beleaguered garrison. The loyalty of old Lady Wyndham
+and her son was further put to the test a few years afterwards when
+young King Charles lay concealed in their house at Trent near
+Sherborne.[25]
+
+Within the castle there is a curious hiding-place which carries us back
+to those troublous times. Local tradition has connected it in error with
+the visit of the second Charles, whose room is still pointed out; but
+the king was then not a fugitive, otherwise doubtless this secret
+chamber would have proved as useful to him as that at Trent House in
+1651.
+
+The main street of Dunster, with its irregular outline of houses
+climbing up a hill, and the quaintest old market-house at the top backed
+by a dense maze of foliage beyond, is exceedingly picturesque. Judging
+from the hole made by a cannon-ball from the castle in one of the oaken
+beams of this remarkable "yarn market," poor Lady Wyndham had a lucky
+escape. The marvel is the old structure has remained until now in so
+delightful an unrestored condition. It has the colour which age alone
+can impart, a red purple-grey which, contrasted with the background as
+we saw it of laburnum and may, formed a picture long to be remembered.
+The old inn, the "Luttrell Arms," has many points of interest--some fine
+fifteenth-century woodwork, in the courtyard, a carved ceiling, and a
+rich Elizabethan fireplace; but doubtless from the fact that the
+landlord gets too many inquiries about these things, he is tardy in
+showing them. The church has one of the finest carved oak screens of
+Henry VI.'s reign in England, which to our mind looks much better in its
+unpainted state. One has but to go to Carhampton, close by, to make a
+comparison. The paint may be in excellent taste, and like it was
+originally; but when the original paint has gone, is it not best to
+leave the woodwork plain? Under these conditions the screen at least
+looks old, but the fine screen at Carhampton does not. A smaller
+screen in the transept of Dunster church presents yet more bold and
+beautiful design in the carving; and about this and the ancient tombs
+and altar, the bright and intelligent old lady who shows one round has a
+fund of information to impart. She is very proud, and naturally so, of
+the interesting building under her charge. Up a side street is the
+nunnery with its slate-hung front: a lofty, curious building some three
+centuries old or more.
+
+Minehead Church is equally interesting. It stands high up overlooking
+the sea, and commands a magnificent prospect of the hanging-woods of
+Dunster and the heights of Dunkery. The rood-screen is good, but has
+been mutilated in parts. The ancient oak coffer is remarkable for the
+bold relief of its carving, representing the arms of Fitz-James
+quartered with Turberville as it occurs in Bere Regis church.
+
+There is a fine recumbent effigy of a man in robes, said to be a famous
+lawyer named Bracton, although he has much the appearance of a cleric.
+Whether it was considered conclusive proof that the person interred was
+a lawyer from the fact that on being opened the skull revealed a double
+row of upper teeth, we do not know, but there are other evidences. A
+victim of insomnia is said to resemble a lawyer, because he lies on one
+side then turns round and lies on the other; and this is precisely what
+this effigy did. We had the good fortune to fall in with the organist of
+St. Michael, and he declared that he had taken a photograph of the
+worthy in which the figure had _changed its position_, the head being
+where the feet should be--everything else in the picture being precisely
+in its right position!
+
+In the church is one of those quaint little figures which in former
+years was worked by the clock "Jack-smite-the-clock," of which there are
+examples at Southwold, Blythborough, etc. The former rector held the
+living for seventy years, and some trouble was caused because he had
+willed that some of the ancient parish documents were to be interred
+with him robed in his Geneva gown. It is said his wish was duly carried
+out, but the papers were afterwards rescued.
+
+Bossington, on the coast to the north-west of Porlock, is a delightful
+little village, lying at the foot of the great heather-clad hills. The
+rushing stream and the moss and lichen everywhere add much to its
+picturesqueness, but we should imagine there is too much shade and damp
+to be enjoyable in the winter. In the middle of the narrow road stands a
+very ancient walnut tree with twisted limbs and roots, one of many
+walnut trees in the village. There are cosy ancient thatched cottages
+in Porlock, and the "Ship Inn," with its panelled walls, is the most
+inviting of hostelries, but the popular novel _Lorna Doone_ has rather
+spoiled the primitive aspect of the place by introducing some buildings
+out of keeping with the rest.
+
+The weary traveller has a great treat in store, for the view from the
+top of Porlock Hill is remarkable. But it is well worth the climb, and
+by the old road it is indeed a climb! When we were there it was a misty
+day in June, and we never remember so remarkable a prospect as from the
+summit. The brilliant gorse stood out against the varying shades of
+green and purple of the moorland, and below all that could be seen was
+one solid mass of snow-white cloud, the outline of which was sharply
+defined against a distant glimpse of the soft blue sea and the deep blue
+Glamorganshire hills, looking wonderfully like a glacier-field. Next
+morning came the news that in the mist the warship _Montagu_ had run on
+the rocks by Lundy.
+
+The romantic scenery of Lynmouth and Lynton is too well known to call
+for any particular description here. Little wonder that one sees so many
+honeymoon couples wandering everywhere about the lovely lanes. Lovers of
+old oak, too, will find all that they desire at Lynmouth, for here is
+the most tempting antique repository, calculated to make tourist
+collectors of Chippendale and oak wish they had economised more in their
+hotel bills. Motor cars sail easily down into the valley from Porlock,
+but a sudden twist in the steep ascent to Lynton causes many a snort and
+groan accompanied by an extra scent of petrol.
+
+But we have overstepped the county line and are in Devon.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[24] See _Some Beauties of the Seventeenth Century_.
+
+[25] See _Flight of the King_ and _After Worcester Fight_.
+
+
+
+
+IN DEVON AND DORSET
+
+
+Those who have never been to Clovelly can have no idea of its
+quaintness, no matter what descriptions they have read or pictures they
+may have seen. One goes there expecting to find the little place exactly
+as he imagines it to be, and is agreeably surprised to find it is quite
+different. It is so unlike any other place, that one looks back at it
+more as a dream than a real recollection. We do not hint that the
+everlasting climb up and down may be likened to a nightmare. Not a bit
+of it. Though we gasp and sink with fatigue, we have still breath enough
+left in our body to sing in praise. Were the steps more steep and less
+rambling, perhaps we should not be so satisfied. What excellent exercise
+for muscular-leg development. But how about the older part of the
+inhabitants?
+
+We had the honour to converse with the oldest Clovellian, a hale and
+hearty fisherman, who, by no means tardy in introducing himself,
+promptly proceeded to business. For twopence we might take his
+photograph. We thanked him kindly, and having disbursed that sum
+reserved our plates for inanimate curiosities.
+
+It is gratifying to learn that there is no room for "improvement" at
+Clovelly, and there are fewer houses than there used to be.
+Consequently there is nothing new and out of harmony. The cottages are
+really old and quaint, not as we expected to find them, imitations, like
+half the houses in Chester.
+
+Even the "New Inn" is delightfully old, with queer little rooms and
+corners, and little weather-cock figures above the sign, of the time of
+Nelson. It is a novel experience to arrive there in the dusk and
+walk (?) down the High Street to the sea. The most temperate will
+stumble and roll about as if he had sampled the cellar through, and ten
+to one but he doesn't finally take an unexpected header into the sea.
+
+But granted he reaches the end of the little pier (which projects after
+the fashion of the "Cobb" at Lyme Regis), he will find a hundred lights
+from the cottages as if lanterns were hung on the hillside, their long
+reflections rippling in the water.
+
+The place is as much a surprise as ever in broad daylight. One might be
+in Spain or Italy. Donkeys travel up and down the weed-grown cobble
+steps carrying projecting loads balanced on their backs. Indeed, one is
+quite surprised to hear the people speaking English, or rather
+Devonshire, the prettiest dialect. In the daylight the little
+balconied-houses overhanging the sea look more like pigeon-cots nailed
+to the steep rock, and one almost wonders how the inhabitants can get
+in. Long may Clovelly remain as it is now, the quaintest little place in
+England!
+
+[Illustration: CEILING IN THE GOLDEN LION, BARNSTAPLE.]
+
+The town of Barnstaple is an excellent centre for exploration, and the
+antiquity of the "Golden Lion" is a guarantee of comfort. It was a
+mansion of the Earls of Bath, and upon a richly moulded ceiling, with
+enormous pendants of the date of James the First, are depicted biblical
+subjects, including the whole contents of the Ark, or a good proportion
+of it. The spire of the church of SS. Peter and Paul looks quite as out
+of the perpendicular as the spire at Chesterfield. There are some good
+Jacobean tombs, but nothing else in particular.
+
+The aged inmates of the almshouses point out the bullet-marks in their
+oaken door, made when the Royalists fortified the town in 1645. Lord
+Clarendon, who was governor of the town, tells us that here it was
+Prince Charles first received the fatal news of the battle of Naseby.
+The prince had been sent to Barnstaple for security. The house he lodged
+at in the High Street was formerly pointed out, but has disappeared.
+
+The poet Gay was a native of the town, and early in the nineteenth
+century some of his manuscripts were discovered in the secret drawer of
+an old oak chair that had passed from a kinsman on to a dealer in
+antiques who lived in the High Street.
+
+Close to the town is Pilton, whose church is full of interest. The
+carved oak hood of the prior's chair, which dates from Henry VII.'s
+reign, serves the purpose now to support the cover of the font. At the
+side may be seen an iron staple to which in former years the Bible was
+chained. From the fine Gothic stone pulpit projects a painted metal arm
+and hand which holds a Jacobean hour-glass. The screen and parclose
+screen are also good, and the communion rails and table in the vestry
+are of Elizabethan date. The church pewter is also worth notice, as well
+as an old pitch pipe for starting the choir. The porch bears evidence
+that the tower was roughly handled when Fairfax captured Barnstaple in
+1646. The existing tower was built fifty years later.
+
+Nowhere have we seen so fine and perfect a collection of carved oak
+benches as at Braunton, a few miles to the north-west of Pilton. They
+are as firm and solid as when first set up in Henry VII.'s reign, and
+are rich in carvings, as is the graceful wide-spanned roof. One of the
+bosses represents a sow and her litter, who by tradition suggested the
+idea of the holy edifice being erected by Saint Branock. A window
+showing some of this good person's belongings, spoken of in the tenth
+commandment, is mentioned by Leland, but since then possibly some local
+antiquary may have disregarded what is forbidden in that ancient law.
+Presumably there have been attempts also to annex the ruins of the
+patron-saint's chapel, for the villagers pride themselves that all
+attempts to remove them have failed. What an object-lesson to the jerry
+builders of to-day!
+
+Farther to the north-west and we get to Croyde Bay, which perhaps one
+day may have a future on account of its open sea and sands. At present
+it looks in the early transition state.
+
+Tawstock, to the south of Barnstaple, is said to possess the best manor,
+the noblest mansion, the finest church, and the richest rectory in the
+county. Certainly the church could not easily be rivalled (the
+"Westminster of the West," as it is called) in its picturesque position,
+surrounded by hills and woods, with the old gateway of the manor-house,
+the sole remains of the original "Court," flanking the winding road
+which leads down to it: we almost feel justified in adding to these
+superlatives the "handsomest Jacobean tomb, and the most elaborate
+Elizabethan pew," but will not commit ourselves so far. The former, on
+the left-hand side of the altar, is that of the first Earl of Bath
+(Bourchier) and his wife. Above their recumbent effigies is a great
+display of armorial bearings, with sixty-four quarterings hung upon a
+vine, showing the intermarriages of the principal families of England.
+There are many other fine monuments, that of Rachael, the last Countess
+of Bath, who died in Charles II.'s reign, representing a lifelike and
+exceedingly graceful figure in white marble. She was the daughter of
+Francis, Earl of Westmoreland, and married secondly, Lionel, third Earl
+of Middlesex, who predeceased her. The Elizabethan pew of the
+Bourchier-Wrays, lords of the manor, has a canopy, and is richly carved;
+but it was originally of larger dimensions. Close by are some fine
+bench-ends, one of which displays the arms of Henry VII. High aloft is a
+curious Elizabethan oak gallery by which the ringers reach the tower,
+upon which are carvings of the vine pattern, a favourite design in
+Devon. An early effigy in wood must not be forgotten, the recumbent
+figure of a female, supposed to be a Hankford, who brought the Tawstock
+estates into the Bourchiers' possession.
+
+From northern Devonshire let us turn our attention to some nooks in the
+easternmost corner and in the adjoining part of Dorset.
+
+Of all the villages along the coast-line here, Branscombe is the most
+beautiful and old-fashioned. Many of the ancient thatched and
+whitewashed cottages have Tudor doors and windows. Some of the best,
+alas! were condemned as being unsafe some fifteen years ago, among them
+one which in the old smuggling days had many convenient hiding-places
+for that industry, for Branscombe was every bit as notorious as the
+little bay of Beer. The church is, or was not long since, delightfully
+unrestored, for fortunately the good rector is one who does not believe
+in up-to-date things, and the sweeping changes which are rampant in
+places more accessible. It is the sort of comfortable old country church
+that we associate with the early days of David Copperfield or with
+Little Nell. Truly the high box-pews are not loved by antiquarians, but
+is it not better to leave them than replace them with something modern
+and uncomfortable? If the original oak benches of the fifteenth or
+sixteenth centuries could be replaced, that is entirely another matter.
+But they cannot, therefore let those who love old associations not
+banish the Georgian pews without a thought that they also form a link
+with the past. The church is cruciform, and principally of the Early
+English and Early Decorated periods, the old grey tower in the centre
+standing picturesquely out in the beautifully wooded valley. The village
+of Beer is also very charming, and the fisher folk fine types of men. It
+is delightful to watch the little fleet set sail; but in the summer the
+air in the tiny bay is oppressive, and the effluvia of fish somewhat
+overpowering. The extensive caves here have done good service in the
+smuggling days.
+
+[Illustration: BINDON.]
+
+[Illustration: BINDON.]
+
+Another charming village is Axmouth, situated on the river which gives
+its name. Old-fashioned cottages with gay little gardens straggle up the
+hill, down which the clearest of streams runs merrily, affording delight
+to a myriad of ducks who dip and paddle to their hearts' content. The
+church has Norman features, and the tower some quaint projecting
+gargoyles. From the other side of the river at high tide the old church
+and cluster of cottages around it, backed by the graceful slope of
+Hawksdown Hill behind, make a charming picture. High up in the hills,
+through typical Devonshire fern-clad lanes, is Bindon, an interesting
+Tudor house containing a chapel of the fifteenth century. The entrance
+from the road, with its circular stone gateway and gables with latticed
+mullioned-windows peeping over the moss-grown wall, is charming, as are
+also the old farm-buildings at the back, in which an enormous canopied
+well is conspicuous. But more gigantic still is the well at Bovey,
+another Tudor house, near Beer, which bears the reputation of being
+haunted. But with the exception of some gables at the back, Bovey is
+less picturesque than Bindon, owing, perhaps, to the fact that the roof
+has been re-slated.
+
+More interesting are the remains of old Shute House, which lies inland
+some six or seven miles. This was a far more extensive mansion, as will
+be seen by the imposing embattled gateway and a remaining wing, which
+rather remind one of a bit of Haddon. Here during the Monmouth Rebellion
+the Royalist commander Christopher, second Duke of Albemarle, encamped
+on June 18, 1685, the same day that the other duke, the boon companion
+of his wilder days, entered Taunton. The house belonged then, as it does
+still, to the De la Poles.
+
+Most of the old houses hereabouts are associated in some sort of way
+with the rebellion. Close upon the county border to the north-east
+stands Coaxden, a much modernised old farm, where stories are told of
+fugitives from Sedgemoor. How its occupant, Richard Cogan, being
+suspected as a Monmouth adherent, fled from his house to Axminster,
+where in the "Old Green Dragon Inn" the landlord's daughter secreted him
+between a feather-bed and the sacking of a bedstead. Kirke's "lambs"
+traced him to the house, but failed to hit upon his hiding-place. The
+story ends as all such stories should, the girl who preserved his life
+became his wife. The house is further interesting as the birthplace in
+1602 of Sir Symonds D'Ewes the historian.
+
+[Illustration: WYLDE COURT.]
+
+A couple of miles or so to the west is Wylde Court, another interesting
+old farmhouse, much less restored, dating from Elizabeth's reign, with
+numerous pinnacled gable ends and characteristic entrance porch and oak
+panelled rooms. This and Pilsdon, another Tudor house a few miles to the
+west, at the foot of Pilsdon Pen, belonged to the Royalist Wyndhams, and
+in the troublous times they were looked upon with suspicion, and
+searched on one or two occasions by the Parliamentary soldiers.
+"Hellyer's Close," near Wylde Court, is so named because a Royalist
+commander, Colonel Hellyer, was taken prisoner and executed here by
+Cromwell's soldiers. At the time that Charles II., in 1651, attempted to
+get away to France from the coast of Dorset, Pilsdon was visited by a
+party of Cromwellian soldiers, and Sir Hugh Wyndham and his family
+secured in the hall while the house was thoroughly searched, suspicion
+even falling upon one of the ladies that she was the king in
+disguise.[26] Sir Hugh's monument may be seen at Silton in the extreme
+north corner of the county.
+
+Chideock is a charming old-world village in the valley between Charmouth
+and Bridport, snugly perched between the cone-shaped eminence Colmer's
+Hill and Golden Cap, the gorse-covered headland, said to be the highest
+point between Dover and the Land's End. The castle of the De Chideocks
+and Arundells, a famous stronghold built in Richard II.'s reign, long
+since has disappeared, but its moat can be traced. The fine old church
+exteriorly is one of the most picturesque in Dorsetshire, but the inside
+has been much restored and modernised. A handsome tomb of Sir John
+Arundell in armour is in the south aisle.
+
+Longevity seems to be the order of the day round "Golden Cap." At Cold
+Harbour we chatted with a hearty old man enjoying his pipe by his
+cottage door. He was close on eighty; but there was still a generation
+over his head, for his father, evidently to show his son a good example,
+was hard at work digging potatoes in the back garden. We solicited the
+honour to photograph the pair, and asked the elder of the two if he
+would have a pipe. No, he didn't smoke, but he could drink, he said; and
+so, of course, we took the hint, and he with equal promptitude toddled
+up the lane, as digging potatoes at the age of ninety-nine is thirsty
+work.
+
+There is a deep picturesque lane near Chideock called "Skenkzies" which
+at night-time is particularly dark, and held in awe, for there are
+stories of evil spirits lurking about; and little wonder, for close at
+hand is a farmhouse called "Hell!" Old customs and superstitions die
+hard in western Dorset. Forlorn and love-sick maidens as a special
+inducement for their lovers to appear, place their boots at right angles
+to one another in the form of a T upon retiring to roost. The charm is
+said to be irresistible; but there have been cases where it has failed,
+when the size has exceeded "men's eights."
+
+[Illustration: MAPPERTON MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: MELPLASH COURT.]
+
+To the north-west of Bridport and the south-west of Beaminster are two
+old houses within a couple of miles of one another, the manor-houses of
+Melplash and Mapperton. The former, a plain Elizabethan gabled house, is
+said to have been one of the many residences of Nell Gwyn. Whether the
+old Hall of Parnham, the seat of the Strodes, was honoured by a visit of
+the Merry Monarch we do not know. If so, it is possible Nell may have
+been housed at Melplash. Mapperton is a remarkably picturesque house,
+with projecting bays and a balustraded roof, above which are little
+dormer windows. Part of the house is evidently Jacobean and part dates
+from the reigns of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth, and the combination of
+styles, the niched entrance gates surmounted by eagles, the ornamental
+pinnacles, and the "upping-stock" beside the wall, make a most fantastic
+whole. It was once the seat of the Coker family.
+
+[Illustration: WATERSTONE.]
+
+There are some interesting old mansions within a few miles of
+Dorchester. Wolverton or Wolfeton manor-house, for example, and
+Waterstone and Athelhampton, the last two of which appear in Nash's
+_Mansions_. Each one is entirely different from the other. Waterstone is
+a small late-Elizabethan or early-Jacobean house, with a quaint
+balustraded bay over the entrance porch, and some elaborate and graceful
+stonework upon a projecting gable that stands at right angles to it.
+This presumably was once the principal entrance. It is certainly quite
+unique and somewhat perplexing. At Wiston House in Sussex we remember
+having seen some very elaborate Elizabethan ornamentation upon a gable
+which really had no business there, although the effect was very
+pleasing: and here, perhaps, we have the same sort of thing. Wolverton
+is a fine early-Tudor building with battlemented tower and a stately
+array of lofty mullioned windows, and careful restoration has added to
+its picturesque appearance.
+
+[Illustration: ATHELHAMPTON.]
+
+[Illustration: ATHELHAMPTON.]
+
+[Illustration: ATHELHAMPTON.]
+
+But sympathetic restoration may be seen at its best at Athelhampton. We
+took some photographs many years ago, when it was occupied as a
+farmhouse, and upon a recent visit could scarcely recognise it as the
+same. Not that the house has been much altered exteriorly, but the
+quaint old-fashioned gardens, with pinnacled Elizabethan walls, ancient
+fish-ponds and fountains, have sprung up and matured in a manner that
+had one not seen the gardens as they were, one would scarcely credit it.
+Wonders have been done within as well, and the great hall is very
+different from what it was before the present owner came into
+possession. There are suits of armour and Gothic cabinets to carry us
+back to the days of doublet and trunk-hose and square-toed shoes. Where
+formerly were pigsties is now a terrace walk, and the quaint old
+circular dovecot has been carried off bodily and planted where it
+balances to best advantage. But one thing we should like to see, and
+that is the ancient gatehouse that was standing in Nash's time. There is
+his drawing to go by, and where everything has been done in such
+excellent taste one need have little fear that in a few years a new
+building would settle down harmoniously with the rest.
+
+Close by is Puddletown, a pretty old village with a remarkable church,
+where, as at Athelhampton, everything is in harmony. It is the sort of
+church one reads about in novels, yet so seldom meets; and now we come
+to think of it, this village does figure in a popular Wessex novel.
+Doubtless there are some lovers of ecclesiastical architecture who would
+like to see the Jacobean woodwork cleared out and _modern_ Henry VII.
+benches introduced to make the whole coeval. The towering three-decker
+pulpit is delightful, and so are the ancient pews, and the old gallery
+and staircase leading up to it. Within the Athelhampton chapel are
+mailed effigies, and several ancient brasses to the Martin family who
+originally owned the mansion.
+
+Bere Regis church, some six miles to the east of Puddletown, is also
+remarkable, particularly for its open hammer-beam roof from which
+project huge life-size figures of pilgrims, cardinals, bishops, etc.,
+and monster heads suggestive of the pantomime. The whole is coloured,
+and the effect very rich and strikingly original. One can imagine how
+the younger school-children must be impressed with these awe-inspiring
+figures looking down upon them with steady gaze. There are two fine
+canopied tombs (one containing brasses dated 1596) to the Turburvilles,
+who possessed a moiety of the lordship since the Conquest. Their old
+manor-house, a few miles south at Wool, a red-brick Jacobean gabled
+house with roomy porch in which a great pendant is conspicuous,
+picturesquely situated by an old bridge and the winding reed-grown
+river, has of recent years obtained notoriety by Mr. Thomas Hardy's pen.
+We photographed the old house some years ago before it had been thus
+immortalised. Upon a recent visit we found the house desolate and empty.
+Had the good farmer flown in consequence, and sought an abode that had
+not become a literary landmark?
+
+But the vicinity of Bere Regis had obtained notoriety of a tragic kind
+many centuries before the birth of _Tess of the d'Urbervilles_, for that
+very undesirable lady, Queen Elfrida, retired there for peace and
+quietness after various deeds of darkness, one of which, according to
+the _Annals_ of Ely, is said to have been inserting red-hot nails into
+Abbot Brithnoth's armpits; and from Lytchet Maltravers to the east of
+Bere came Sir John Maltravers to whose tender mercies the unfortunate
+Edward II. was delivered before he was done to death at Berkeley Castle.
+Sir John's monument is in the church; but as it was not the fashion in
+those days to enumerate the various virtues of the departed in laudatory
+verse, this particular act of charity is not recorded in suitable
+effusion.
+
+[Illustration: MONMOUTH'S TREE.]
+
+Wimborne Minster to the north-east is too world-famed to call for any
+particular description here, but a word may be said about the first Free
+Library in the country. In past days, when there was no good Mr.
+Carnegie to cater for the welfare of millions, nor the finest classics
+to be purchased for sixpence, it was only natural, books being rare,
+that the local authorities should not have placed the same implicit
+trust in would-be readers as is shown by the British Museum Library
+authorities. The rusty iron chains securing the aged tomes to an iron
+rod above the queer old desks even after the lapse of centuries would
+hold their own. The literature cannot be said to be of a much lighter
+nature than the bulky volumes in weight. The rarest specimens are placed
+in glass cases, and are calculated to make the mildest bibliomaniac
+full of envy. Before the Reformation the Minster was rich in holy
+relics, conspicuous among which was a part of St Agatha's thigh. One of
+the most curious things still to be seen is a coffin brilliantly painted
+with armorial devices, placed in the niche of a wall, which according to
+the will of the occupant has to be touched up from year to year; and
+thus the memory of the worthy magistrate, Anthony Ettrick, is kept more
+actively alive than good King Ethelred who rests beneath the pavement by
+the altar. Ettrick lived at Holt Lodge near Woodlands, a few miles away
+in the direction of Cranborne; and when the Duke of Monmouth was
+captured in rustic garb in the vicinity, he was brought before the
+magistrate and removed from Holt to Ringwood, where at the "Angel Inn"
+the room in which he was kept prisoner is still pointed out. We have
+elsewhere described the old ash tree near Crowther's Farm beneath which
+the unfortunate fugitive from Sedgemoor was found. It is propped up, and
+has lost a limb, but is alive to-day, and surely should be protected by
+a railing and an inscription like other historic trees. To the north is
+St. Giles, the ancestral home of the Earls of Shaftesbury, the first
+representative of which title, Anthony Ashley Cooper, worked so
+skilfully on Monmouth's ambition. When the Merry Monarch visited the
+noble politician at St. Giles, he little thought that his favourite son
+would be taken a prisoner as a traitor within only a mile or so of the
+mansion. A memento of the royal visit is still preserved in the form of
+a medicine chest that the king left behind, which in those days
+doubtless contained some of his favourite specific "Jesuit drops."
+
+Another historic mansion is Kingston Lacy, to the west of Wimborne,
+the old seat of the Bankes family, which is rich in Stuart portraits
+as well as other valuable works of art. It is a typical square
+comfortable-looking Charles II. house, with dormer-windowed roof and
+wide projecting eaves. The staunch Royalist, James Buder, the great Duke
+of Ormonde, lived here in his latter years, and died here in 1688. The
+duke's intimate friend, Sir Robert Southwell, has left a graphic account
+of the last hours of the good old nobleman, which he concludes with the
+following:--"His Grace could remember some things that passed when he
+was but three years old. He was only four years old when his
+great-great-uncle Earl Thomas died in 1614, but he retained a perfect
+remembrance of him. That Earl lived in the reigns of King Henry the
+Eighth, King Edward the Sixth, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, and King
+James; and His Grace had seen King James the First, King Charles the
+First, King Charles the Second, and King James the Second; so that
+between them both they were contemporary with nine princes who ruled
+this land!"[27]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[26] See _Flight of the King_.
+
+[27] _Hist., MSS. Com. Rep._ 7 App. p. 758.
+
+
+
+
+HERE AND THERE IN SALOP
+AND STAFFORDSHIRE
+
+
+The important and ancient capital of Salop would indeed be insulted were
+it called a "nook" or "corner." Could it so be named, we might be
+allowed to let our enthusiasm run wild in this most delightful old town.
+Shrewsbury and Tewkesbury are to our mind far more interesting than
+Chester, which has so many imitation old houses to spoil the general
+harmony. At Shrewsbury or Tewkesbury there are very few mock antiques,
+and at every turn and corner there are ancient buildings to carry our
+fancy back to the important historical events that have happened in
+these places. One cannot but be thankful to the local authorities for
+preserving the mediæval aspect, and let us offer up a solemn prayer that
+the electric tramway fiend may never be permitted to enter.
+
+Chirk Castle is so close upon the boundaries of Salop that we may
+include this corner of Denbighshire. It is the only border fortress of
+Wales still inhabited, and is remarkably situated on an eminence high
+above the grand old trees of the park, or rather forest, surrounding it.
+It has stood many a siege, but its massive external walls look little
+the worse for it. They are of immense thickness, and so wide that two
+people abreast can walk upon the battlements. The huge round towers,
+with deep-set windows and loopholes, have a very formidable appearance
+as you climb the steep ascent from the picturesque vale beneath. It was
+built by the powerful family of Mortimer early in the fourteenth
+century. From the Mortimers and Beauchamps it came into the possession
+of Henry VIII.'s natural son, the Duke of Richmond and Somerset, and to
+Lord Seymour, brother of the Protector Somerset. Then the Earl of
+Leicester owned it in Elizabeth's time, and eventually Sir Thomas
+Myddelton, Lord Mayor in James I.'s reign. His son, Sir Thomas, fought
+valiantly for the Parliamentary side, and in 1644 had to besiege his own
+fortress. A letter from the governor, Sir John Watts, to Prince Rupert,
+which still hangs in the great hall, describes how the owner "attempted
+to worke into the castle with iron crowes and pickers under great
+plancks and tables, which they had erected against the castle side for
+their shelter: but my stones beate them off." In the following year
+Charles I. slept there on two occasions; and it was here that he learned
+the defeat of the great Montrose. After the king's execution, Sir
+Thomas, like many others, began to show favour to the other side; and
+the year before the Restoration he was mixed up in Sir George Booth's
+Cheshire rising, and had to fortify his castle against General Lambert,
+to whom he eventually surrendered. But the general did not depart until
+he had disabled the fortress, and the damage done after the Restoration
+took £30,000 to repair. It was Sir Hugh, the younger brother of the
+first Sir Thomas Myddelton, who made the New River, which was opened on
+Michaelmas Day, 1613. A share in 1633 was valued at £3, 4s. 2d., and in
+1899 one was sold for £125,000!
+
+[Illustration: SERVANT'S HALL, CHIRK CASTLE.]
+
+The various apartments are ranged round a large quadrangle, parts of
+which remind one somewhat of Haddon. On one side is the great hall, and
+opposite the servants' hall. The former, with its minstrels' gallery,
+heraldic glass, and ancient furniture, is full of interest. The walls
+are hung with various pieces of armour, and weapons, and a Cavalier
+drum, saddle, and hat, the latter with its leather travelling case,
+which is probably unique. There is a gorgeous coloured pedigree to the
+first Sir Thomas Myddelton, recording ancestors centuries before, though
+perhaps not quite so far back as the pedigree in the long gallery at
+Hatfield, which is said to go back to Adam.
+
+[Illustration: SERVANTS' HALL, CHIRK CASTLE.]
+
+The servants' hall is a delightful old room, with long black oak tables
+and settles, those against the wall being fixtures to the panelling.
+There is a raised dais, and a seat of state to make distinction at the
+board. There are queer old portraits of ancient retainers, one the
+bellman who used to ring the great bell in the corner turret of the
+quadrangle, and another very jolly looking porter, who has his eye on an
+antique beer barrel perched on wheels in a corner of the room. This
+apparatus has done good service in its day, as have the great pewter
+dishes and copper jugs. Above the wide open fireplace are the Myddelton
+arms. The servants' hall was an orderly apartment:
+
+  "No noise nor strife nor swear at all,
+  But all be decent in the Hall,"
+
+is written up for everybody to see, with the following rules:--That
+every servant must take off his hat at entering; and sit in his proper
+place, and drink in his turn, and refrain from telling tales or speaking
+disrespectfully, and various other things, which misdeeds were to be
+punished in the first instance by the offender being deprived of his
+allowance of beer; for the second offence, three days' beer; and the
+third, a week.
+
+The castle is rich in portraits, especially by Lely and Kneller, many of
+which hang in the oak gallery, which extends the whole length of the
+eastern wing; and there are several fine oak cabinets, one of which, of
+ebony and tortoise-shell with silver chasings, was given to the third
+Sir Thomas Myddelton by the Merry Monarch.
+
+The wrought-iron entrance gates of very elaborate workmanship were made
+in 1719 by the local blacksmith.
+
+At the ancient seat of the Trevors, Brynkinalt, nearer to Chirk village,
+are some interesting portraits of the Stuart period, notably of Charles
+II.; James, Duke of York; Nell Gwyn, the Duchess of Portsmouth, and
+Barbara Villiers.
+
+Chirk village is insignificant, but has a fine church in which are some
+interesting monuments, notably that of the gallant knight who besieged
+his own castle as before described. He and his second wife are
+represented in marble busts. It was their son Charles who married the
+famous beauty of Charles II.'s reign; she was the daughter of Sir Robert
+Needham, and her younger sister, Eleanor, became the Duke of Monmouth's
+mistress. There is an old brick mansion called Plâs Baddy, near Ruabon,
+where "La Belle Myddelton" and her husband lived when the diversions of
+the Court proved tedious; but buried in these wilds, she must have felt
+sadly out of her element without the large following of admirers at her
+feet. She had more brains, though, than most Court beauties, and being a
+talented artist, was not entirely dependent upon flattery.
+
+Near the entrance of the Ceiriog valley, to the west of Chirk, is a farm
+called Pontfaen, and beyond, across some meadows, there is a remarkable
+Druidical circle. Gigantic stones are riveted to the crosspieces of
+archways, having the appearance of balancing themselves in a most
+remarkable manner. The entrance to the circle has two pillars in which
+are holes through which was passed a pole to act as wicket; and in front
+of the altar is a rock in which may be seen cavities for the feet, where
+the officiating priest is supposed to have stood. It is secluded,
+solemn, and ghostly, especially by moonlight when we saw it for the
+first time. The villages hereabouts, though picturesquely situated, are
+far from interesting: whitewashed and red-brick cottages of a very plain
+and ordinary type, and very few ancient buildings.
+
+Some of the most picturesque old houses in England are to be found in
+the southern and central part of Salop. Take, for example, Stokesay
+Castle, which is quite unique. A battlemented Early English tower with
+lancet windows and the great hall are the principal remains. The latter,
+entered from above by a primitive wooden staircase, is a noble apartment
+with a fine open timber roof. The exterior has been altered and added to
+at a later period, making a very quaint group of gables, with a
+projecting storey of half-timber of the sixteenth century. This is
+lighted by lattice windows, and the bay or projection is held by timber
+supports from the earlier masonry. It has a deep roof, and the whole
+effect is odd and un-English. Not the least interesting feature is an
+Elizabethan timber gatehouse with carved barge-boards, entrance gate,
+and corner brackets, and the timbers shaped in diamonds and other
+devices. Then there is picturesque Pitchford Hall and Condover close by:
+the former a fine half-timber mansion, the latter a stately Elizabethan
+pile of stone. Pitchford we believe has been very much burnished up and
+considerably enlarged since we were there, but we should not like to see
+it with its new embellishments, for from our recollection of the old
+house, half its charm was owing to the fact that there was nothing
+modern-antique about it: a dear old black-and-white homestead, which
+looked too perfect a picture for the restorer to set to work upon it and
+spoil its poetry; but for all that it may be improved. The courtyard
+presents quite a dazzling arrangement of geometric patterns in the
+timber work, and over the central porch there is a quaint Elizabethan
+gable of wood quite unlike anything we have seen before. The side facing
+the north is, or was, quite a picture for the artist's brush. The
+stately lofty gables of Condover are in striking contrast with the more
+homely looking ones of Pitchford; and the builder was an important
+person in his day, as may be judged from his elaborate effigy in
+Westminster Abbey, namely, Judge Owen, who claimed descent from one of
+the ancient Welsh kings. Like most Elizabethan houses, Condover Hall is
+built in the form of a letter E, but the central compartment was
+probably added to later on by Inigo Jones. The doorway and bay-windows
+above are of fine proportions, and full of dignity.
+
+At Eaton Constantine, to the east, is the quaint old timber house where
+Richard Baxter lived; and at Langley, to the south-east, a fine old
+timber gatehouse; as well as Plash Hall, famous for its elaborate
+twisted chimneys. Then there is Ludlow with its ruined castle, where
+poor young Edward V. was proclaimed king before he set out for London:
+and its famous "Feathers" hostelry with black-oak panelled rooms, its
+old town-gate, and the ancient bridge of Ludford to the south. The
+country between Ludlow and Shrewsbury is remarkably beautiful,
+especially in the vicinity of Church Stretton, which of recent years has
+grown rabidly as a health resort, meaning, of course, the springing up
+of modern dwellings to mar its old-world snugness.
+
+There is, or was some twenty years ago, a narrow street of old houses,
+behind which, backed by beautiful woods, stood the manor-house, long
+since converted into an inn, and the church. Beyond the woods rise a
+range of lofty hills; and if we take the trouble to clamber up to the
+highest peak (which rises to upwards of 1600 feet), we are well rewarded
+for our pains. Two of the highest points are Caradoc and Lawley, famous
+landmarks for miles around. The "Raven," when we visited it, was a
+quaint old hostelry, and an ideal place to make headquarters for
+exploring the romantic scenery all around.
+
+At the pretty little village of Winnington, close upon the county
+border, and fourteen miles as the crow flies to the north-west of Church
+Stretton, stands a tiny little cottage at the foot of the Briedden
+Hills. Here lived the famous old Parr, who was born there in the reign
+of Edward IV. and died in that of Charles I., having lived in the reigns
+of no less than ten monarchs. In his hundred and fifty-second year he
+went to London for change of air, which unfortunately proved fatal. His
+gravestone in Westminster Abbey will be remembered near Saint-Evremond's
+and Chiffinch's, near the Poets' Corner.
+
+[Illustration: MARKET DRAYTON.]
+
+[Illustration: MARKET DRAYTON.]
+
+The quiet little town of Market Drayton, some eighteen miles to the
+north-east of Shrewsbury, contains many interesting timber houses. There
+is still an old-fashioned air about the place of which the footsore
+pedestrian stumbling over the cobble stones soon becomes conscious. The
+quaint overhanging gables in the narrow streets are rich with ornamental
+carvings. One long range of buildings at the corner of Shropshire and
+Cheshire Streets is a fine specimen of "magpie" architecture. Let us
+hope the row of antiquated shops on the basement will remain content
+with their limited space; for so far those imposing modern structures,
+which have a way of throwing everything out of harmony, are conspicuous
+by their absence. Nor has the demon electric tram come to destroy this
+quiet peaceful corner of Salop, as, alas! it has to so many of our old
+towns. One dreads to think what England will be like in another fifty
+years. Farther along Shropshire Street we find a little antiquated inn,
+the "Dun Cow," with great timber beams and thick thatch roof, and the
+"King's Arms" opposite bearing the date 1674 upon the gable abutting
+upon the roof, which does not say much for the sobriety of the person
+who set it up. Hard by is a good Queen Anne house standing a little
+back, as if it didn't like to associate with such neighbours. It looked
+deserted, and was "To Let"; and we couldn't help thinking how this
+compact little house would be picked up were it only situated in
+Kensington or Hampstead.
+
+The church, an imposing building finely situated, is disappointing,
+though there is some good Norman work about it. It has been reseated,
+and the only thing worth noting is an old tomb showing the quaint female
+costume of Elizabeth's day, and a tall-backed oak settle facing the
+communion table. The latter looks as if it ought to be facing an open
+fireplace in some manorial farm.
+
+Many superstitions linger hereabouts. The old people can recollect the
+dread in which a certain road was held at night for fear of a ghostly
+lady, who had an unpleasant way of jumping upon the backs of the farmers
+as they returned from market. Tradition does not record whether those
+who were thus favoured were total abstainers; possibly not, for the lady
+by all accounts had a grudge against those who occasionally took a
+glass; and in a certain inn cellar, when jugs had to be replenished, it
+was discomforting to find her seated on the particular barrel required,
+like the goblin seen by Gabriel Grub upon the tombstone.
+
+There was a custom among the old Draytonites for some reason, not to
+permit their aged to die on a feather-bed. It was believed to make them
+die hard, and so _in extremis_ it was dragged from beneath the
+unfortunate person. The sovereign remedy they had for whooping-cough is
+worth remembering, as it is so simple. All you have to do is to cut some
+hair from the nape of the invalid child's neck, place it between a piece
+of bread and butter, and hand the sandwich to a dog. If he devours it
+the malady is cured; if he doesn't, well, the life of the dog at least
+is spared.
+
+A few miles to the east of the town, in the adjoining county, is the
+famous battlefield of Bloreheath, where the Houses of Lancaster and
+York fought desperately in 1459. The latter under the Earl of
+Salisbury came off victorious, while the commander of Henry's forces was
+slain. A stone pedestal marks the spot, originally distinguished by a
+wooden cross, where Lord Audley fell.
+
+Of less historical moment but more romantic interest, is the fact that
+here close upon a couple of centuries later the diamond George of
+Charles II. was concealed, while its royal wearer by right was lurking
+fifteen miles away at Boscobel. The gallant Colonel Blague, who had had
+the charge of this tell-tale treasure, was captured and thrown into the
+Tower, where no less a celebrity than peaceful Isaak Walton managed to
+smuggle it. Blague eventually escaped, and so the George found its way
+to the king in France. At Blore also Buckingham remained concealed,
+disguised as a labourer, before he got away into Leicestershire and
+thence to London and the coast. "Buckingham's hole," the cave where his
+grace was hidden, is still pointed out; and a very aged man who lived in
+the neighbourhood a few years ago prided himself that he could show the
+exact place where the duke fell and broke his arm; and he ought to have
+known, as his great-grandfather was personally acquainted with "old
+Elias Bradshaw," who was present when the accident happened.
+
+Broughton Hall, a fine old Jacobean mansion, stands to the east of
+Blore. It is a gloomy house, and has some ghostly traditions. We are
+reminded of the rather startling fact that upon developing a negative of
+the fine oak staircase there, the transparent figure of an old woman in
+a mob-cap stood in the foreground! Here was proof positive for the
+Psychological Society. But, alas! careful investigation upset the
+mystery. The shadowy outline proved to be painfully like the ancient
+housekeeper. The subject had required a long exposure, and the lady must
+have wished to be immortalised, for she certainly must have stood in
+front of the lens for at least a minute or so. It is strange this desire
+to be pictured. Any amateur photographer must have experienced the
+difficulties to be encountered in a village street. The hours of twelve
+and four are fatal. School children in thousands will crop up to fill up
+the foreground. In such a predicament a friend of ours was inspired with
+an ingenious remedy. Having covered his head with the black cloth, he
+was horrified to see a myriad of faces instead of the subject he wished
+to take. However, he got his focus adjusted somehow, and having placed
+his dark slide in position ready for exposure, he placed the cloth over
+the lens-end of the camera as if focussing in the opposite direction.
+Immediately there was a stampede for the other side, with considerable
+struggling as to who should be foremost. The cherished little bit of
+village architecture was now free, the cloth whipped away, and the
+exposure given. "Are we all taken in, mister?" asked one of the boys a
+little suspiciously. "Yes, my lads," was the response given, "you've all
+been taken in." And so they had, but went home rejoicing.
+
+Beside the staircase, there is little of interest inside Broughton.
+There was a hiding-place once in one of the rooms which was screened by
+an old oil painting, but it is now merged into tradition. The road from
+Newport passes through wild and romantic scenery. At Croxton, farther to
+the east, there is, or was, a Maypole, one of those old-world villages
+where ancient customs die hard. Swinnerton Hall, a fine Queen Anne house
+to the north-east, and nearer to Stone, is the seat of the ancient
+family of Fitzherbert, the beautiful widow of one of whose members was
+in 1785 married to the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV.
+
+The palatial Hall of Trentham, farther to the north, is rather beyond
+our province, being in the main modern. One grieves that the fine old
+house represented in Dr. Plot's quaint history of the county has passed
+away; one grieves, indeed, that so many of these fine Staffordshire
+houses are no more. The irreparable loss of Ingestre Hall, Wrothesley
+Hall, Enville Hall, and of Severn End in the adjoining county, makes one
+shudder at the dangers of fire in these ancestral mansions. Coombe
+Abbey in Warwickshire was only quite recently saved from a like fate by
+Lord Craven's activity and presence of mind.
+
+But the old gatehouse of Tixall to the east of Stafford, and Wootton
+Lodge to the north of Uttoxeter, fortunately still remain intact. The
+former presents much the same appearance as in Plot's drawing of 1686,
+but the curious gabled timber mansion beyond has long since disappeared,
+and the classic building that occupies its site looks hardly in keeping
+with so perfect an example of Elizabethan architecture. The romantic
+situation of Wootton Lodge is well described by Howitt. The majestic
+early-Jacobean mansion (the work of Inigo Jones) has a compactness and
+dignity quite its own, and there is nothing like it anywhere in England,
+though more classic, perhaps, than the majority of houses of its period.
+It has a battlemented roof surmounted by an array of massive chimneys,
+mullioned windows innumerable, and a graceful flight of steps leading to
+the ornamental porch. It was not at this stately house that the
+eccentric Jean Jacques came to bury himself for over a year, but at the
+Hall, a far less picturesque building. The philosopher and his companion
+Thérèsa le Vasseur were looked at askance by the country folk; and "old
+Ross Hall," as they called him, botanising in the secluded lanes in his
+strange striped robe and grotesque velvet cap with gold tassels and
+pendant, was a holy terror to the children. It was supposed he was in
+search of "lost spirits," as indeed was the case, for his melancholia at
+length led to his departure under the suspicion that there was a plot to
+poison him.
+
+A bee-line drawn across Staffordshire, say from Bridgnorth in Salop to
+Haddon in Derbyshire, would intersect some of the most interesting
+spots. In addition to Wootton and Ingestre, we have Throwley Hall,
+Croxden and Calwich Abbeys, and Tissington (in Derbyshire) to the
+north-east (not to mention Alton and Ham), and Boscobel, Whiteladies,
+Tong, etc., to the south-east.
+
+Of Boscobel and Whiteladies we have dealt with elsewhere too
+particularly to call for any fresh description here; but not so with the
+picturesque village of Tong, whose church is certainly the most
+interesting example of early-Perpendicular architecture in the county.
+Would that the interiors of our old churches were as carefully preserved
+as is the case here. There is nothing modern and out of harmony. The
+rich oak carvings of the screens and choir stalls; the monumental
+effigies of the Pembrugges, Pierrepoints, Vernons, and Stanleys; the
+Golden Chapel, or Vernon chantry--all recall nooks and corners in
+Westminster Abbey. It was Sir Edward Stanley, whose recumbent effigy in
+plate armour is conspicuous, who married Margaret Vernon, the sister of
+the runaway heiress of Haddon, and thus inherited Tong Castle, as his
+brother-in-law did the famous Derbyshire estate.
+
+The early-Tudor castle was demolished in the eighteenth century, when
+the present Strawberry-Hill Gothic fortress of reddish-coloured stone
+was erected by a descendant of the Richard Durant whose initials may
+still be seen on the old house in the Corn Market at Worcester, where
+Charles II. lodged before the disastrous battle.[28] Unromantic as were
+Georgian squires, as a rule, the Eastern Gothic architecture of their
+houses and the fantastic and unnatural grottoes in their grounds show
+signs of sentimental hankering. At Tong they went one better, for there
+are traditions of Æolian harps set in the masonry of the farmyard of the
+castle. The mystic music must indeed have been thrown unto the winds!
+
+But the Moorish-looking mansion, if architecturally somewhat a
+monstrosity, is nevertheless picturesque, with its domed roofs and
+pinnacles. A fine collection of pictures was dispersed in 1870,
+including an interesting portrait of Nell Gwyn, and of Charles I., which
+has been engraved.
+
+In the older building (which somewhat resembled old Hendlip Hall) was
+born the famous seventeenth-century beauty, Lady Venetia Digby, _née_
+Stanley, of whom Vandyck has left us many portraits, notably the one at
+Windsor Castle,--an allegorical picture representing the triumph of
+innocence over calumny, for she certainly was a lady with "a past." The
+learned and eccentric Sir Kenelm Digby, her husband, endeavoured to
+preserve her charms by administering curious mixtures, such as viper
+wine; and this, though it was very well meant, probably ended her career
+before she was thirty-three. One can scarcely be surprised that at the
+post-mortem examination they discovered but very little brains; but this
+her husband attributed to his viper wine getting into her head!
+
+Not far from Tong, in a secluded lane, is a tiny cottage called Hobbal
+Grange, which is associated with the wanderings of Charles II. when a
+fugitive from Worcester. Here lived the mother of the loyal Penderel
+brothers, who risked their lives in harbouring their illustrious guest.
+We mention Hobbal more particularly as since the _Flight of the King_
+was written we have had it pointed out pretty conclusively that "the
+Grange" of to-day is only a small portion of the original "Grange Farm"
+converted into a labourer's dwelling. The greater part of the original
+house was pulled down in the eighteenth century. In an old plan, dated
+1739, of which we have a tracing before us, there are no less than seven
+buildings comprising the farm, which was the largest on the Tong estate.
+In 1855 it was reduced to eighty-six acres. In 1716, Richard Penderel's
+grandson, John Rogers, was still in residence at Hobbal.
+
+[Illustration: BLACKLADIES.]
+
+Near Whiteladies is the rival establishment Blackladies, a picturesque
+red-brick house with step-gables and mullioned bays. As the name
+implies, this also was a nunnery, but there are but scanty remains of
+the original building. There is a stone cross, and some other fragments
+are built into the masonry; and in the stables may be seen the chapel,
+where services were held until sixty years ago. Part of the moat also
+remains. A lane near at hand is still known as "Spirit Lane," because
+the Black Nuns of centuries ago have been seen to walk there.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[28] See _Flight of the King_.
+
+
+
+
+IN NORTHERN DERBYSHIRE
+
+
+Our first impression of romantic Derbyshire vividly recalled one of the
+opening chapters of _Adam Bede_. Having secured lodgings at a pretty
+village not many miles from Haddon, we were somewhat disturbed with
+nocturnal hammerings issuing from an adjacent wheelwright's. Somebody
+had had the misfortune to fall into the river and was drowned, so we
+learned in the morning, and the rest we could guess. Somewhat depressed,
+we were on the point of sallying forth when the local policeman arrived
+and demanded our presence at the inquest, as one of the jurymen had
+failed to put in an appearance. A cheerful beginning to a holiday!
+
+[Illustration: GREAT HALL, HADDON.]
+
+[Illustration: GREAT HALL, HADDON.]
+
+There is something about dear old Haddon Hall that makes it quite
+unique, and few ancient baronial dwellings are so rich in the poetry of
+association. In the first place, though a show house, one is not
+admitted by one door and ejected from another with a jumbled idea of
+what we have seen and an undigested store of historical information. One
+forgets it is a show place at all. It is more like the enchanted castle
+of the fairy story, where the occupants have been asleep for centuries;
+and in passing through the grand old rooms one would scarcely be
+surprised to encounter people in mediæval costume, or knights in
+clanking armour. The lovers of historical romance for once will find
+pictures of their imagination realised. They can fit in favourite scenes
+and characters with no fear of stumbling across modern "improvements"
+to destroy the illusion and bring them back to the twentieth century.
+Compare the time-worn grey old walls of this baronial house with those
+of Windsor Castle, and one will see the havoc that has been done to the
+latter by centuries of restoration. Events that have happened at Haddon
+appear to us real; but at Windsor, so full of historic memories, there
+is but little to assist the imagination.
+
+[Illustration: COURTYARD, HADDON.]
+
+The picturesqueness of Haddon is enhanced by its lack of uniformity. The
+rooms and courtyards and gardens are all on different levels, and we are
+continually climbing up or down stairs. The first ascent to the great
+entrance gate is precipitous, and some of the stone steps are almost
+worn away with use. Entering the first courtyard (there are two, with
+buildings around each) there is another ascent, with a quaint external
+staircase beyond, leading to the State apartments, and to the left again
+there are steps by which the entrance of the banqueting-hall is reached.
+
+Opposite is the chapel, with its panelled, balustraded pews and
+two-decker Jacobean pulpit, which is very picturesque; and the second
+courtyard beyond, to the south of which is the Long Gallery or ballroom,
+with bay-windows looking upon the upper garden, from which ascend those
+well-known and much photographed balustraded stone steps to the shaded
+terrace-walk and winter garden, above which, and approached by another
+flight of steps, is Dorothy Vernon's Walk, a romantic avenue of lime and
+sycamore. Facing the steps and screened by a great yew tree is yet
+another flight, with ball-surmounted pillars, leading to the "Lord's
+Parlour," or Orange Parlour as it was formerly called; and from this
+picturesque exit the Haddon heiress eloped with the gallant John
+Manners, and by so doing brought the noble estate into the possession of
+the Dukes of Rutland.
+
+An elaborately carved Elizabethan doorway leads here from the ballroom,
+which is rich in carved oak panelling and has a coved ceiling bearing
+the arms and crest of the Manners and Vernons. By repute, all the
+woodwork, including the circular oak steps leading to the apartment, was
+cut from a single tree in the park. The ash-grey colour of the wood is
+caused by a light coat of distemper, which it has been surmised was
+added at some time to give it the appearance of cedar. Not many years
+ago there was a controversy upon this subject, which resulted in some
+ill-advised person obtaining leave to anoint a portion of the panelling
+with boiled oil. The result was disastrous, and led to an indignant
+outcry from artists and architects; but fortunately the act of vandalism
+was stopped in time, and the muddy substance removed. The wainscoting
+consists of a series of semicircular arches divided by fluted and
+ornamental pillars of different heights and sizes, the smaller panels
+being surmounted by the shields of arms and crests of the ancient owners
+of the Hall, above which is a bold turreted and battlemented cornice.
+
+[Illustration: DRAWING-ROOM, HADDON.]
+
+[Illustration: WITHDRAWING ROOM, HADDON.]
+
+[Illustration: WITHDRAWING ROOM, HADDON.]
+
+The old banqueting-hall is rather cosier looking than the famous hall of
+Penshurst. The narrow, long oak table with its rustic settle is somewhat
+similar, but later in character than those at Penshurst, and has a
+grotesque arrangement of projecting feet. The hall is all nooks and
+corners. Below a projecting gallery is a recess for the wide
+well-staircase, with its little gates to keep the dogs downstairs, and a
+lattice-paned window lighting up the uneven lines of the floor. The
+walls are panelled, and there is a wide open fireplace, and the screen
+has Gothic carvings. Attached to the framework is an iron bracelet, to
+enforce the duty of a man drinking his due portion in the good old days.
+The penalty was before him, so should he fail, he knew his lot, namely,
+to have the contents of the capacious black jack emptied down his
+sleeve. The withdrawing-room to the south of the hall is richly
+wainscoted in carved oak, with a recessed window containing a fixed
+settle and a step leading down to a genuine cosy-corner. There are some
+who believe our ancestors had no idea of comfort; but picture this fine
+old room in the winter, with blazing logs upon the fantastic fire-dogs,
+the warm red light playing upon the various armorial carvings of the
+frieze, and the quaint little oriel window half-cast in shadow. The
+apartment immediately above has a still more elaborate frieze of
+ornamental plaster above the rich tapestry hangings, and the bay-window
+in the wainscoted recess, like that beneath, looks upon the gardens,
+with the graceful terrace on the left and the winding Wye and venerable
+bridge below. The circular brass fire-dogs are remarkable.[29] The
+"Earl's Bedchamber" and "Dressing-Room" and the "Lady's Dressing-Room"
+have tapestried walls and snug recessed windows. The "State Bedroom" was
+formerly the "Blue Drawing-room." This also is hung with tapestry, and
+the recessed window has a heavy ornamental frieze above. Near the lofty
+plumed bedstead, with green silk-velvet hangings, is a queer old cradle,
+which formerly was in the chaplain's room on the right-hand side of the
+entrance gate. But to describe the numerous rooms in detail would be
+tedious. Everything is on a huge and ponderous scale in the kitchens and
+offices; one is almost reminded of the giant's kitchen in the pantomime.
+Among the curious and obsolete instruments one encounters here and
+there, there is a wooden instrument like a colossal boot-jack for
+stringing bows. It stands against the wall as if it were in daily use.
+Though there is some good old furniture, one would wish to see the rooms
+less bare. But let us turn to the famous Belvoir manuscripts, which not
+so very long ago were discovered much rat-eaten in a loft of that
+historic seat of the Earls of Rutland. It is interesting after a visit
+to Haddon to dip into these papers and get some idea of what the old
+Hall was like in its most flourishing days. The great bare ballroom must
+have looked very grand in the days of Charles I., with the coved ceiling
+brilliant with paint and gilt. In addition to a "gilded organ," were two
+"harpsicalls" and a "viall chest with a bandora and vialls; a
+shovel-board table on tressels; a large looking-glass of seventy-two
+glasses, and four pictures of shepherds and shepherdesses." Sixteen
+suits of armour adorned the screen of the great hall. The massive oaken
+tables and cabinets displayed a wealth of silver and gilt plate,
+including a "greate quilte doble sault with a peacock" (the crest of the
+Manners) "on the top"; silver basins, ewers, and drinking bowls; a
+warming-pan, two little boats; four porringers with spoons for the
+children, a "maudlin" cup and cover, etc.
+
+[Illustration: DOORWAY, HADDON.]
+
+[Illustration: INTERIOR COURTYARD, HADDON.]
+
+Among the rooms were the "Green Chamber," the "Rose Chamber," the "Great
+Chamber," the "Best Lodging," the "Hunters' Chamber," the "School-house
+Chamber," the "Nursery," the "Smoothing Chamber," the "Partridge
+Chamber," "Windsor," the "Little Gallery," etc. "The uppermost chamber
+in the nether tower" is almost suggestive of something gruesome, while
+"my mistress's sweetmeat closet" sounds tempting; and a list of contents
+included things to make the juvenile palate water--"Glasses of apricots,
+marmalett, and currants, cherry marmalett, dried pears and plums and
+apricots, preserved and grated oranges, raspberry and currant cakes,
+conserved roses, syrup of violets," etc. These things perhaps are
+trivial, but there is a domesticity about them by which we may think of
+Haddon as a country home as well as a historic building.
+
+[Illustration: GREAT HALL, HADDON.]
+
+Haddon ceased to be a residence of the Dukes of Rutland more than a
+century ago. In the days of the Merry Monarch the ninth earl kept open
+house in a very lavish style. It is said the servants alone amounted to
+one hundred and forty; and capacious as are the ancient walls, it is a
+marvel how they all were housed. The romantic Dorothy, who a century
+before ran away upon the evening of a great ball, was the daughter of
+the "King of the Peak," Sir George Vernon, thus nicknamed for his lordly
+and open-handed way of living. She died in 1584, and Sir George Manners,
+the eldest of her four children, sided with the Parliament during the
+Civil Wars. But his mode of living was by no means puritanical, and
+Haddon was kept up in its traditional lavish style. In Bakewell church
+there is a fine marble tomb representing him and his wife and children,
+as well as the tomb of the famous Dorothy and her husband, Sir John
+Manners. The family crest, a Peacock in his pride, that is, with his
+tail displayed, so conspicuous with the Vernon boar's head in the
+panelling and parqueting of Haddon, gives its name to the most
+delightful of ancient hostelries at Rowsley. The proximity of the
+mansion must have made its fortune over and over again, apart from its
+piscatorial attractions. The gable ends and latticed windows, and the
+ivy-grown battlemented porch and trim gardens, are irresistible, and no
+one could wish for quarters more in harmony with the old baronial Hall.
+
+In striking contrast to the sturdy ruggedness of hoary Haddon is
+princely Chatsworth. The comparison may be likened to that between a
+mediæval knight and a gorgeous cavalier. The art treasures and sumptuous
+magnificence of Chatsworth, the elaborate and graceful carvings (which
+by the way are not nearly all by the hand of Gibbons, but by a local man
+named Samuel Watson), and the beauty of the gardens, make it rightly
+named the "Palace of the Peak." But it is its association with the
+luckless Mary Queen of Scots which adds romantic interest to the
+mansion,--not that the existing classical structure can claim that
+honour, for nothing now remains of the older building, a battlemented
+Tudor structure with an entrance like the gatehouse of Kenilworth
+Castle, and a "gazebo" on either side of the western front. It is odd,
+however, that Lord Burleigh should have selected it as "a mete house for
+good preservation" of a prisoner "having no toure of resort wher any
+ambushes might lye," for there were no less than eight towers, but
+presumably not the kind the Lord High Treasurer meant. During her twelve
+years' captivity in Sheffield (where, by the way, "Queen Mary's
+Chamber," with its curious heraldic ceiling, may still be seen in the
+manor-house), she was frequently at Chatsworth and Wingfield Manor under
+the guardianship of George Talbot, sixth Earl of Shrewsbury, the fourth
+husband of that remarkable woman, Bess of Hardwick, who was not a little
+jealous of her husband's fascinating captive, and circulated various
+scandalous stories, about which the Earl thought fit to justify himself
+in his own epitaph in St Peter's church, Sheffield. When the important
+prisoner was under his custody in that town, she was not permitted to go
+beyond the courtyard, and usually took her exercise upon the leads. But
+at Chatsworth her surveillance was less strict, although truly John
+Beaton, the master of her household (who predeceased his mistress, and
+was buried at Edensor close by, where a brass to his memory remains),
+had strict instructions regarding her. Her attendants, thirty-nine in
+all, were none of them allowed to go beyond the precincts of the grounds
+without special permission, nor was anybody allowed to wait upon the
+queen between nine o'clock at night and six in the morning. None were
+sanctioned to carry arms; and when the fair prisoner wished to take the
+air, Lord Shrewsbury had to be informed an hour beforehand, that he and
+his staff might be upon the alert. One can picture Mary and her maids of
+honour engaged in needlework upon the picturesque moated and balustraded
+stone "Bower" near the river, with guards around ever on the watch. This
+and the old Hunting-tower high up among the trees, a massive structure
+with round Elizabethan towers, are the only remains to take us back to
+the days of the Scots queen's captivity.
+
+To see Chatsworth to perfection it should be visited when the wooded
+heights in the background are rich in their autumnal colouring. The
+approach from Beeley village through the park and along the bank of the
+Derwent at this season of the year, and the view from the house and
+avenues of the river and park, are particularly beautiful. The elaborate
+waterworks recall the days of the grand monarque, and an _al fresco_
+shower-bath may be enjoyed beneath a copper willow tree, the kind of
+practical joke that was popular in the old Spring Gardens in London in
+Charles II.'s time. In addition to the splendid paintings, are numerous
+sketches by Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, etc., which came from the
+famous forty days' sale of 1682, when the works collected by Sir Peter
+Lely were dispersed.
+
+Of the stately mansions erected by Bess of Hardwick, the building
+Countess of Shrewsbury,--Chatsworth, Oldcotes, Hardwick, Bolsover, and
+Worksop,--Hardwick is the most untouched and perfect. The last remaining
+bit of the older Chatsworth House was removed just a century after
+Bess's death, so the present building must not be associated with her
+name, nor indeed can any rooms at Hardwick have been occupied by Mary
+Queen of Scots, as is sometimes stated, for the house was not begun
+until after her death. If the queen was ever at Hardwick, it was in the
+older mansion, of which very considerable ruins remain. The error, of
+course, arises from one of the rooms at Hardwick being named "Mary Queen
+of Scots' room," which contains the bed and furniture from the room she
+occupied at Chatsworth; and the velvet hangings of the bed bearing her
+monogram, and the rich coverlet, are indeed in her own needlework.
+
+Bess of Hardwick in many respects was like her namesake the
+strong-minded queen; and when her fourth better-half had gained his
+experience and sought sympathy from the Bishop of Lichfield, he received
+the following consoling reply: "Some will say in yor L. behalfe tho'
+the Countesse is a sharpe and bitter shrewe, and, therefore, licke
+enough to shorten yr life, if shee shulde kepe you company. Indede, my
+good Lo. I have heard some say so; but if shrewdnesse or sharpnesse may
+be a just cause of sep[ar]acon betweene a man and wiefe, I thinke fewe
+men in Englande woulde keepe their wiefes longe; for it is a common
+jeste, yet treue in some sense, that there is but one shrewe in all the
+worlde, and evy man bathe her; and so evy man might be rydd of his wife,
+that wolde be rydd of a shrewe." But with all her faults the existence
+of Hardwick and Bolsover alone will cover a multitude of sins. A
+fortune-teller predicted that so long as she kept building she would
+never die; and had not the severity of the winter of 1607 thrown her
+masons out of employment, her ladyship might have survived to show us
+what she could do with the vacant space at Aldwych.
+
+[Illustration: HARDWICK HALL.]
+
+There is something peculiarly majestic and stately about Hardwick Hall.
+It is one mass of lofty windows. It is rarely occupied as a dwelling,
+and one would like to see it lighted up like Chatsworth at Christmas
+time. But with the setting sun shining on the windows it looks a blaze
+of light--a huge beacon in the distance. With the exception of the
+ornamental stone parapet of the roofs, in which Bess' initials "E.S."
+stand out conspicuously, the mansion is all horizontal and perpendicular
+lines; but the regularity is relieved by the broken outline of the
+garden walls, with their picturesque array of tall halberd-like
+pinnacles.
+
+Like Knole and Ham House, the interior is untouched, and every room is
+in the same condition since the time of its erection. Some of the
+wonderful old furniture came from the older Chatsworth House, including,
+as before stated, the bedroom furniture of Mary Queen of Scots. Nowhere
+in England may be seen finer tapestries than at Hardwick; they give a
+wealth of colour to the interior, and in the Presence-chamber the
+parget-work in high relief is also richly coloured. Here is Queen
+Elizabeth's State chair overhung by a canopy, and the Royal arms and
+supporters are depicted on the pargeting. The tapestries lining the
+walls of the grand stone staircase are superb, and the silk needlework
+tapestry in some of the smaller rooms a feast of colour. Everywhere are
+the grandest old cushioned chairs and settees, and inlaid cabinets and
+tables. The picture-gallery extends the entire length of the house, and
+abounds in historical portraits, including Bess of Hardwick dressed in
+black, perhaps for one of her many husbands, with a black head-dress,
+large ruff, and chain of pearls. Here also is a full-length portrait of
+her rival, the luckless queen, very sad and very pale, painted, during
+her nineteen years of captivity, at Sheffield in 1678, and a portrait of
+her little son James at the age of eight,--a picture sent to comfort the
+poor mother in her seclusion. The future king's cold indifference to his
+mother's fate was not the least unpleasant trait of his selfish
+character. In a discourse between Sir John Harrington and the monarch,
+the latter did his best to avoid any reference to the poor queen's fate;
+but he might have saved himself the trouble, for he was more affected by
+the superstitious omens preceding her execution. His Highness, he says,
+"told me her death was visible in Scotland before it did really happen,
+being, as he said, spoken of in secret by those whose power of sight
+presented to them a bloody head dancing in the air." From James we may
+turn to little Lady Arabella Stuart in a white gown, nursing a doll in
+still more antiquated costume, in blissful ignorance of her unhappy
+future. She was the granddaughter of Bess of Hardwick, and was born at
+Chatsworth close upon the time when the Queen of Scots was there.
+Looking at these two portraits of this baby and the boy, it is difficult
+to imagine that the latter should have sent his younger cousin to linger
+away her life and lose her reason in the Tower from the fact that she
+had the misfortune to be born a Stuart.
+
+Horace Walpole in speaking of this room says: "Here and in all the great
+mansions of that age is a gallery remarkable only for its extent." But
+it is remarkable for its two huge fireplaces of black marble and
+alabaster, for its fine moulded plaster ceiling, for its
+fifteenth-century tapestry, and quaint Elizabethan easy-chairs. The
+great hall is a typical one of the period, with open screen and
+balustraded gallery, a flat ceiling, big open fireplace, and walls
+embellished with antlers and ancient pieces of armour. When the mansion
+was completed in 1597 the older one was discarded and the furniture
+removed, and the walls were gradually allowed to fall into ruin. It is
+now but a shell; but one may get a good idea of the style of building
+and extent, as well as of the internal decorations. It appears to be of
+Tudor date, almost Elizabethan in character, and over the wide
+fireplaces are colossal figures in bold relief, emblematic, perhaps, of
+the giant energy of Bess of Hardwick, who spent the greater part of her
+lifetime in those old rooms. Tradition says she died immensely rich, but
+without a friend. She survived her fourth husband seventeen years and
+was interred in the church of All-Saints', Derby, where the mural
+monument of her recumbent effigy had been erected under her own
+superintendence.
+
+To the south-west of Hardwick, and midway between Derby and Sheffield,
+are the ruinous remains of another old residence of Lord Shrewsbury's,
+associated with the captivity of Mary Queen of Scots. This is South
+Wingfield manor-house, whither she was removed from Tutbury Castle prior
+to her first sojourn at Chatsworth, and whence she was removed back to
+Tutbury in 1585. By this time Shrewsbury had freed himself of the
+responsible custodianship: a thankless and trying office, for Elizabeth
+was ever suspicious that he erred on the side of leniency. A letter
+addressed from Wingfield Manor, from Sir Ralph Sadleir to John Manners,
+among the Belvoir manuscripts, and dated January 6, 1584-85, runs as
+follows: "The queenes majestie hath given me in chardge to remove the
+Queene of Scots from hence to Tutbury, and to the end she should be the
+better accompanyed and attended from thither, her highness hath
+commanded me to gyve warning to some of the gentlemen of best reputation
+in this contry to prepare themselfs to attend upon her at the time of
+her removing. I have thought good to signify the same unto you emonge
+others, and to require you on her Majesties behalf to take so much paine
+as to be heere at Wingfield upon wednesday the xiiith of this moneth at
+a convenient tyme before noone to attend upon the said queene the same
+day to Derby and the next day after to Tutbury." Of the State apartments
+occupied by her there are no remains beyond an external wall, but the
+battlemented tower with which they communicated, and from which the
+royal prisoner is said to have been in secret touch with her friends, is
+still tolerably perfect.
+
+In the Civil War the brave old manor-house stood out stoutly for the
+Royalists, but at length was taken by Lord Grey. The governor, Colonel
+Dalby, was on the point of making his escape from the stables in
+disguise when he was recognised and shot. The stronghold shortly
+afterwards was dismantled, but in Charles II.'s reign was patched up
+again and made a residence, and so it continued until little more than a
+century ago. The village of Ashover, midway between Wingfield and
+Chesterfield, is charmingly situated on the river Amber amidst most
+picturesque scenery. Here in 1660, says the parish register, a certain
+Dorothy Mady "forswore herself, whereupon the ground opened and she sank
+overhead!" There are some old tombs to the Babingtons, of which family
+was Anthony of Dethick-cum-Lea, nearer Matlock, where are slight remains
+of the old family seat incorporated in a farmhouse. As is well known, it
+was the seizure of the Queen of Scots' correspondence with this young
+desperado, who with Tichborne, Salisbury, and other associates was
+plotting Elizabeth's assassination, that hastened her tragic end at
+Fotheringay.
+
+Bolsover Castle, which lies directly north of Hardwick, has a style of
+architecture peculiar to itself. It is massive, and grim, and
+prison-like, with a strange array of battlements and pinnacles; and Bess
+of Hardwick showed her genius in making it as different as possible from
+her other residences. And the interior is as fantastic and original as
+the exterior. Altogether there is something suggestive of the fairy-tale
+castle; and the main entrance, guarded by a giant overhead and bears on
+either side, has something ogre-like about it. The rooms are vaulted and
+supported by pillars, some of them in imitation of the earlier castle of
+the eleventh and twelfth centuries. They are a peculiar mixture of
+early-English and Renaissance, but the effect is very pleasing and
+picturesque. The main arches of the ceiling of the "Pillar parlour" are
+panelled and rest on Elizabethan vaulting-shafts, and the ribs are
+centred in heavy bosses. The semicircular intersections of the walls are
+wainscoted walnut wood, richly gilt and elaborately carved, and there
+are early-Jacobean hooded fireplaces and queer old painted and inlaid
+doors and window-shutters. The largest of these rooms is the "Star
+chamber," so called from the golden stars on the ceiling depicted on
+blue ground, representing the firmament. In these gorgeous rooms Charles
+I. was sumptuously entertained by the first Duke of Newcastle. In what
+is called the "Riding house," a roofless Jacobean ruin of fine
+proportions, Ben Jonson's masque, _Love's Welcome_, was performed before
+the king and queen. Clarendon speaks of the stupendous entertainment
+(that cost some fifteen thousand pounds) and excess of feasting, which,
+he says, "God be thanked!--no man ever after imitated." The duke (then
+marquis), who had been the king's tutor, was a playwriter of some
+repute, though Pepys does not speak highly of his ability, saying his
+works were silly and tedious.[30] His eccentric wife had also literary
+inclinations, and wrote, among other things, a high-flown biography of
+her spouse, which the Diarist said showed her to be "a mad, conceited,
+ridiculous woman, and he an asse to suffer her to write what she writes
+to him and of him." This romantic and theatrical lady was one of the
+sights of London when she came to town in her extravagant and antiquated
+dress, and always had a large crowd around her. The practical joke
+played upon her at the ball at Whitehall, mentioned in de Gramont's
+_Memoirs_, is amusing, but commands our sympathy, and is a specimen of
+the bad taste of Society at the time.
+
+The romantic situation of the castle, perched upon a steep promontory
+overlooking a dense mass of trees, must have been quite to the old
+duchess's taste; and one can picture her walking in state in the curious
+old gardens as she appears in her theatrical-looking portrait at
+Welbeck. According to local tradition there is a subterranean passage
+leading from the castle to the church, which was formerly entered by a
+secret staircase running from the servants' hall; and there are stories
+of a hidden chapel beneath the crypt, and ghosts in Elizabethan ruffles.
+The Cavendish Chapel in the church was erected by Bess of Hardwick's
+younger son, Sir Charles Cavendish, father of the first Duke of
+Newcastle, and contains his tomb, a gorgeous Jacobean monument.
+
+[Illustration: GARLANDS, ASHFORD CHURCH.
+(_Photo by Rev. J. R. Luxmoore._)]
+
+Some of the remote villages in the wild and beautiful Peak district have
+strong faith in their traditional superstitions and customs. An
+excellent way for a young damsel to discover who her future husband is
+to be is to go to the churchyard on St. Valentine's Eve, and when the
+clock strikes the hour of midnight, if she runs round the church she
+will see the happy man running after her. It has never been known to
+fail, perhaps from the fact that it has never been tried, for it is very
+doubtful if a girl could be found in Derbyshire or any other county with
+sufficient pluck to test it. An old remedy for the toothache was to
+attract the "worm" into a glass of water by first inhaling the smoke of
+some dried herbs. Those who had plenty of faith, and some imagination,
+have actually seen the tiny offender. Maypoles and the parish stocks are
+still to be found in nooks and corners of the Peak and farther south,
+and that pretty custom once prevailed of hanging garlands in memory of
+the village maidens who died young. From a little crown made of
+cardboard, with paper rosettes and ornaments, pairs of gloves cut out of
+paper were suspended fingers downwards, with the name of the young
+deceased and her age duly recorded upon them. And so they hang from the
+oak beams of the roof. In Ashford church, near Haddon, there is quite a
+collection of them suspended from a pole in the north aisle. The oldest
+dates from 1747, but the custom was discontinued about ninety years ago.
+In Hampshire, however, these "virgins' crowns" are still made. At the
+ancient village church of Abbotts Ann, near Andover, there are about
+forty of them, and only the other day one was added with due ceremony.
+The garland was made of thin wood covered with paper, and decorated with
+black and white rosettes, with fine paper gloves suspended in the
+middle. It was carried before the coffin by two young girls dressed in
+white, with white shawls and hoods, who each held one end of a white
+wand from which the crown depended. During the service it was placed
+upon the coffin by one of the bearers, and at the close was again
+suspended from the wand and borne to the grave. It was afterwards laid
+on a thin iron rod branching from a small shield placed high up on the
+wall of the nave of the church. One of these garlands may still be seen
+in St. Albans Abbey.
+
+Another pretty custom is that of "well-dressing," which yet survives at
+the village of Tissington above Ashbourne, and of recent years has been
+revived in other Derbyshire villages, like the modern modified May-day
+festivities. It dates from the time of the Emperor Nero, when the
+philosopher Lucius Seneca told the people that they should show their
+gratitude to the natural springs by erecting altars and offering
+sacrifices. The floral tributes of to-day, which are placed around the
+wells and springs on Holy Thursday, are of various devices, made mostly
+of wild flowers bearing biblical texts; and the village maidens take
+these in formal procession and present them after a little consecration
+service in the church. One would like to see this pretty custom revived
+in other counties.
+
+At Hathersage, beautifully situated among the hills some eight miles
+above Bakewell, Oak Apple Day is kept in memory by suspending a wreath
+of flowers on one of the pinnacles of the church tower. The interior,
+with its faded green baize-lined box-pews duly labelled with brass
+plates bearing the owners' names, has a charming old-world appearance.
+In the church is a fine altar-tomb and brasses to the Eyres of North
+Lees, an ancient house among the hills of the Hoodbrook valley.
+
+The ancient ceremony of rush-bearing at Glossop, formerly connected with
+the church, has, we understand, degenerated into a "public-house show";
+which is a pity. In Huntingdonshire, however, there was until some years
+back a somewhat similar custom of strewing green rushes, from the banks
+of the river Ouse, on the floor of the old church of Fenstanton, near
+St. Ives; but in Old Weston, in the same county, newly mown grass is
+still strewn upon the floor of the parish church upon the village feast
+Sunday: the festival of St. Swithin. The original ceremony of
+"rush-bearing," a survival of the ancient custom of strewing the floors
+of dwellings with marsh rushes, was a pretty sight. A procession of
+village maidens, dressed in white, carried the bundles of rushes into
+the church (accompanied, of course, by the inevitable band), and hung
+garlands of flowers upon the chancel rails. The festival at Glossop, and
+in places in the adjoining county of Cheshire, however, was more like
+the last survival of May-day: the monopoly of sweeps,--a cart-load of
+rushes was drawn round the village by gaily bedecked horses with a
+motley band of morris-dancers accompanying it, who, having made a
+collection, resorted to the public-house before taking their bundles to
+the church. Had they reversed the order of things it is possible the
+custom in some places would have been suffered to continue. Until a
+comparatively recent date the floor of Norwich Cathedral was strewn with
+rushes on Mayor's day; and there is still preserved among the civic
+treasures a wonderful green wickerwork dragon hobby-horse, or rather
+hobby-dragon, with wings, and movable jaws studded with nails for teeth,
+which always made its appearance in the streets on these days of public
+festival.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[29] They have been reproduced most carefully for the drawing-room of
+the Cedar House at Hillingdon.
+
+[30] _Pepys' Diary_, March 18, 1667-68.
+
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS IN YORKSHIRE
+
+
+In a journey across our largest county, so famous for its grand
+cathedrals and ruined castles and abbeys, one could not wish for greater
+variety either in scenery or association. Between the Queen of Scots'
+prison in Sheffield Manor and the reputed Dotheboys Hall a few miles
+below the mediæval-looking town of Barnard Castle, there is vast
+difference of romance; and yet what more unromantic places than Bowes or
+Sheffield! Indeed, take them all round, the towns and villages of
+Yorkshire have a grey and dreary look about them; and the houses partake
+of the pervading character, or want of character, of the busy
+manufacturing centres. But the natural scenery is quite another matter,
+and with such lovely surroundings one often sighs that the picturesque
+and the utilitarian are so opposed to one another. We do not, however,
+merely allude to the buildings in the southern part of the county, for
+many villages in the prettiest parts have nothing architecturally
+attractive about their houses. The snug creeper-clad cottage, so
+familiar in the south of England, is, comparatively speaking, a rarity,
+and one misses the warmth of colour amid the everlasting grey.
+
+The express having dropped us in nearly the southernmost corner, our
+object is to get out of the busy town of Sheffield as quickly as
+possible; but, as before stated, romance lingers around the remains of
+the ancient seat of the sixth Earl of Shrewsbury, who lies buried in the
+parish church, for under his charge the Scots' queen remained here a
+prisoner for many years; and Wolsey, too, was brought here on his way
+to Leicester.
+
+Upon the road to Barnsley there is little to delay us until we come to a
+turning to the right a couple of miles or so to the south of the town.
+After the continual chimney-shafts the little village of Worsborough is
+refreshing. The church has many points of interest. The entrance porch
+has a fine oak ceiling with carved bosses, and the original oak door is
+decorated with carved oak tracery. The most interesting thing within is
+the monument to Sir Roger Rockley, a sixteenth-century knight whose
+effigy in armour lies beneath a canopy supported by columns very much
+resembling a four-poster of the time of Henry VII. The similarity is
+heightened by the fact that the tomb is entirely of carved oak, painted
+and gilded. The bed, however, has two divisions, and beneath the
+recumbent wooden effigy of Sir Roger with staring white eyes, is the
+gruesome figure of a skeleton in a shroud, also made more startling by
+its colouring. How the juvenile Worsboroughites must dread this spectre,
+for its position in the church is conspicuous! There is a brass to
+Thomas Edmunds, secretary to William, Earl of Strafford, who lived in
+the manor-house close by, a plain stone gabled house with two wings and
+a small central projection. It is a gloomy looking place, and once
+possessed some gloomy relics of the martyr king, including the stool
+upon which he knelt on Whitehall scaffold. These relics belonged to Sir
+Thomas Herbert, the close attendant upon Charles during the later days
+of his imprisonment, and descended to the Edmunds family by the marriage
+of his widow with Henry Edmunds of Worsborough.[31] The park presumably
+has become public property, and the road running through it is much
+patronised by the black-faced gentlemen of the neighbouring collieries.
+Nor are the ladies of the mining districts picturesque, although they
+seem to affect the costume of the dames of old Peru by showing scarcely
+more than an eye beneath their shawls.
+
+Some three miles to the west of Worsborough is Wentworth Castle (a
+successor to the older castle, the remains of which stood on the high
+ground above), called by some Stainborough Hall to distinguish it from
+Wentworth Woodhouse. The historic house stands high, commanding fine
+views, but marred by mining chimney-shafts on the adjacent hills. The
+exterior of the mansion is classic and formal, and exteriorly there is
+little older than the time of George I.; the interior, however, takes us
+back another century or more, and the panelled porters' hall and carved
+black oak staircase were old when powdered wigs were introduced. In
+Queen Anne's State rooms and in the cosy ante-chambers there are rich
+tapestries, wonderful old cabinets, and costly china, reminding one of
+the treasures of Holland House. But the finest room is the picture
+gallery, one hundred and eighty feet in length and twenty-four feet in
+breadth, and very lofty. The ceiling represents the sky with large gold
+stars, and has a curious effect of making it appear much higher than it
+really is. It belongs to the time of the second Earl of Strafford, who
+built all this part of the house. The unfortunate first earl looks down
+from the wall with dark melancholy eyes: a face full of character and
+determination, and different vastly from the dreamy weakness revealed in
+the profile of the sovereign who cut his head off. The despotic ruler of
+Ireland is said to walk the chambers of the castle with his head under
+his arm, which, strangely enough, seems to be the fashion with
+decapitated ghosts; and Strafford is a busy ghost, for he has to divide
+his haunting among two other mansions, Wentworth Woodhouse and Temple
+Newsam. Here is Oliver, too, who made as great a mistake as Charles did
+by resorting to the axe. The young Earl of Pembroke looks handsome in
+his long fair ringlets; and so does the youthful Henrietta, Baroness
+Wentworth (a pretty childish figure fondling a dog), whose end was every
+way as tragic as her kinsman's.
+
+Many of the bedrooms are named after birds and flowers, a pretty idea
+that we have not met elsewhere. The colour blue predominates in those we
+call to mind, namely, the "Blue-tit room," the "Kingfisher room," the
+"Peacock room," the "Cornflower room," and the "Forget-me-not room."
+Just outside the park, near a house that was formerly kept as a
+menagerie, is a comfortable old-fashioned inn, the "Strafford Arms,"
+the landlord of which was butler to two generations of the
+Vernon-Wentworths, and in consequence he is quite an authority on
+genealogical matters; and where his memory does not serve, has Debrett
+handy at his elbow. Being a Somersetshire man he has brought the
+hospitality of the western counties with him to the northern heights. He
+points with pride to the cricket-ground behind the inn, the finest
+"pitch" in Yorkshire.
+
+[Illustration: TOMB, DARFIELD CHURCH.]
+
+Let us avoid the town of Barnsley and turn eastwards towards Darfield,
+whose interest is centred in its church. The ceilings of the aisles,
+presumably like the picture gallery at Wentworth Castle, are supposed to
+represent the heavens, but the colour is inclined to be sea-green, and
+the clouds and stars are feathery. A fine Perpendicular font is
+surmounted by an elaborate Jacobean cover; opposite, at the east
+end of the church, is a fine but rather dilapidated tomb of a
+fourteenth-century knight and his dame, and the effigy of the latter
+gives a good idea of the costume of Richard II.'s time. Upon a wooden
+stand close by there is a chained Bible, and the support looks so light
+that one would think the whole could be carried off bodily, until one
+tries its prodigious weight.
+
+Another tomb, of the Willoughbys of Parham, bears upon it some strange
+devices, including an owl with a crown upon its head. The
+seventeenth-century oak pews and some earlier ones with carved
+bench-ends, add considerably to the interest of the interior. The
+ancient coffer in the vestry, as well as a carved oak chest and chairs,
+must not pass unnoticed.
+
+Barnborough to the east, and Great Houghton to the north-east, are both
+famous in their way; the former for a traditional fight between a man
+and a wild cat, which for ferocity knocked points off the Kilkenny
+record. The Hall was once the property of Sir Thomas More (another of
+those beheaded martyrs who are doomed to walk the earth with their heads
+under their arms), and contains a "priest's hole," which, had it existed
+in the Chancellor's day, might have tempted him to try and save his
+life. Great Houghton Hall, the ancient seat of the Roders (a brass to
+whom may be seen in Darfield church), is now an inn, indeed has been an
+inn for over half a century. Once having been a stately mansion, it has
+an air of mystery and romance; and there are rumours that before it
+lost caste, in the transition stage between private and public life, one
+of its chambers remained draped in black, in mourning for the Earl of
+Strafford's beheading on Tower Hill in 1641. It is a huge building of
+many mullioned windows and pinnacled gables; but within the last two
+years the upper part of the big bays of the front have been destroyed,
+and a verandah introduced which spoils this side, and whoever planned
+this alteration can have had but little reverence for ancient buildings.
+The rooms on the ground floor are mostly bare; but ascending a wide
+circular stone staircase, with carved oak arches overhead, there are
+pleasant surprises in store. You step into the spacious "Picture
+gallery," devoid of ancestral portraits truly, but with panelled walls
+and Tudor doorways. The mansion was stripped of its furniture over a
+century and a half ago, but there are chairs of the Chippendale period
+to compensate, and a great wardrobe of the Stuart period too big
+presumably to get outside. Two bedrooms are panelled from floor to
+ceiling and have fine overmantels, one of which has painted panels
+depicting "Life" and "Death." But a great portion of the house is
+dilapidated, and to see its ornamental plaster ceilings one would have
+to risk disappearing through the floors below, like the demon in the
+pantomime. Mine host of the "Old Hall Inn" is genuinely sympathetic, and
+is quite of the opinion that the oak fittings that have been removed
+would look best in their original position; and this is only natural,
+for he has lived there all his life, and his mother was born in the
+house; and he proudly points at the Jacobean pew in the adjacent church
+where as a child he sat awestruck, holding his grandfather's hand while
+the good old gentleman took his forty winks. The little church in its
+cabbage-grown enclosure is quite an untouched gem, with formal array of
+seventeenth-century pews with knobby ends, a fine carved oak pulpit and
+sounding-board. Its exterior is non-ecclesiastical in appearance, with
+rounded stone balustrade ornamentation. While photographing the building
+an interested party observed that he had lived at Houghton all his life,
+but had never observed there was a door on that side,--a proof that
+residents in a place rarely see the most familiar objects. Nevertheless,
+he discovered the door of the "Old Hall," and entered.
+
+Pontefract Castle, so rich in historical associations, is disappointing,
+because there is so little of it left. It is difficult in these
+fragmentary but ponderous walls to imagine the fortress as it appeared
+in the days of Elizabeth. From an ancient print of that time it looks
+like a fortified city, with curious pinnacles and turrets upon its many
+towers. The great round towers of the keep had upon the summit quite a
+collection, like intermediate pawns and castles from a chessboard. The
+curtain walls connected seven round towers, and there were a multitude
+of square towers within. There is something very suggestive of the
+Duncan-Macbeth stronghold in the narrow stairway between those giant
+rounded towers. It is like a tomb, and one shudders at the thought of
+the "narrow damp chambers" in the thickness of the wall of the Red
+Tower, where tradition says King Richard II. was done to death. By the
+irony of fate it was the lot of many proud barons during some part of
+their career to occupy the least desirable apartment of their castles;
+and thus it was with Edward II.'s cousin, Thomas Plantagenet, Earl of
+Lancaster, who from his own dungeon was brought forth to be beheaded. In
+a garden near the highwayman's resort, Ferrybridge, above Pontefract,
+may be seen a stone coffin which was dug up in a field on the outskirts
+of the castle, and supposed to be that of the unfortunate earl. At
+Pontefract, too, Lord Rivers, Sir Thomas Vaughan, Sir Richard Grey, and
+others were hurried into another world by the Protector Richard; so
+altogether the castle holds a good record for deeds of darkness, and the
+creepy feeling one has in that narrow stairway between those massive
+walls is fully justified by past events. The old castle held out stoutly
+for the king in the Civil Wars. For many months, in 1645, it stood a
+desperate siege by Fairfax and General Poyntz before the garrison
+capitulated. Three years later it was captured again for the Royalists
+by Colonel Morrice, and held with great gallantry against General
+Lambert even after the execution of Charles I. In the March following,
+the stronghold surrendered, saving Morrice and five others who had not
+shown mercy to Colonel Rainsborough when he fell into their hands. These
+six had the option of escaping if they could within a week. "The
+garrison," says Lord Clarendon, "made several sallies to effect the
+desired escape, in one of which Morrice and another escaped; in another,
+two more got away; and when the six days were expired and the other two
+remained in the castle, their friends concealed them so effectually,
+with a stock of provisions for a month, that rendering the castle and
+assuring Lambert that the six were all gone, and he was unable to find
+them after the most diligent search, and had dismantled the castle, they
+at length got off also." There are still some small chambers hewn out of
+the solid rock on which the castle is built, reached by a subterranean
+passage on the north side; and perhaps here was the successful
+lurking-place. Colonel Morrice and his companion, Cornet Blackburn, were
+afterwards captured in disguise at Lancaster.
+
+In the pleasure gardens of to-day, with various inscription boards
+specifying the position of the Clifford Tower, Gascoyne's Tower, the
+King's Tower, and so forth, we get but a hazy idea of this once
+practically impregnable fortress, covering an area of seven acres.
+Concerning Richard II.'s death, it is doubtful whether the truth will
+ever be arrived at. The story that he escaped, and died nineteen years
+afterwards in Scotland, is less likely than the supposition that he died
+from the horrors of starvation; on the other hand, the story of the
+attack by Sir Piers Exton's assassins is almost strengthened by the
+evidence of a seventeenth-century tourist, who, prior to its destruction
+in the Civil War, records: "The highest of the seven towers is the Round
+Tower, in which that unfortunate prince was enforced to flee round a
+poste till his barbarous butchers inhumanly deprived him of life. _Upon
+that poste the cruell hackings and fierce blowes doe still remaine._"
+Mr. Andrew Lang perhaps can solve this historic mystery; or perhaps he
+has already done so? New Hall, close at hand, must have been a grand old
+house; but it is now roofless, and crumbling to decay. It is a
+picturesque late-Tudor mansion, with a profusion of mullioned windows
+and a central bay. The little glass that remains only adds to its
+forlorn appearance.
+
+Ferrybridge and Brotherton both have an old-world look. The latter
+place is famous for the battle fought there between Yorkists and
+Lancastrians; and as the birthplace of Thomas de Brotherton, the fifth
+son of King Edward I. The old inns of Ferrybridge recall the prosperous
+coaching days; but the revival of business on the road which has been
+brought about by cycle and motor, will have but little effect on this
+village with a past. The hostelry by the fine stone bridge that gives
+the place its name, has a past connected with notorious gentlemen of the
+road, and an entry in an old account-book runs as follows: "A traveller
+in a gold-laced coat ordered and drank two bottles of wine--doubtless
+mischief to-night, for the traveller, methinks, is that villain Dick
+Turpyn." How vividly this recalls that excellent picture by Seymour
+Lucas, R.A., where a landlord of the Joe Willet type is eyeing, between
+the whiffs from his long churchwarden, a suspicious guest, who having
+tasted mine host's vintage has dropped asleep, regardless of the fact
+that his brace of flintlocks are conspicuously visible.
+
+Between here and Leeds are two fine mansions, Ledston Hall and Kippax
+Park. The former is a very uncommon type of Elizabethan architecture,
+almost un-English in character. It is a stone-built house of the time of
+James I., with Dutch-like gables and narrow square towers. In the reign
+of Charles I. it belonged to Thomas, Earl of Strafford; but his son, the
+second earl, sold the estate. Kippax in its way is original in
+construction, but savours somewhat of Strawberry Hill Gothic. The
+ancient family of Bland have been seated here since the time of
+Elizabeth, the direct male line, however, dying out in the middle of the
+eighteenth century. Sir Thomas Bland was one of the gallant Royalists
+who defended Pontefract Castle during the Civil War.
+
+A few miles to the north-west is the grand old mansion, Temple Newsam.
+Like Hatfield House, which in many respects it resembles, it is built of
+red-brick with stone coigns, and the time-toned warm colour is
+acceptable in this county of grey stone. It was built like many
+so-called Elizabethan houses in the reign of James I., and, like Castle
+Ashby, has around the three sides of the quadrangle a parapet of letters
+in open stone work which runs as follows: "All glory and praise be given
+to God the Father, the Son, and Holy Ghost on high, peace on earth,
+goodwill towards men, honour and true allegiance to our gracious king,
+loving affections amongst his subjects, health and plenty within this
+house." The loyal sentiments are not those of Mary Queen of Scots'
+husband, Lord Darnley, who was born in the earlier house, but of the
+builder, Sir Anthony Ingram, who bought the estate from the Duke of
+Lennox. Of all the spacious rooms, the picture gallery is the finest.
+It is over a hundred feet in length and contains a fine collection of
+old masters and some remarkable china. Albert Durer's hard and
+microscopic art is well represented, as well as the opposite extreme in
+Rembrandt's breadth of style. But the gem of all is a head by Reynolds
+(of, we think, a Lady Gordon), a picture that connoisseurs would rave
+about. A small picture of Thomas Ingram is almost identical with that of
+the Earl of Pembroke we have mentioned at Wentworth Castle. In one of
+the bedrooms (famous for their tapestry hangings and ancient beds) are
+full-length portraits of Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth, and James
+I., the first like the well-known portraits at Hardwick and Welbeck. On
+one of the staircases is an interesting picture of Henrietta, Duchess of
+Orleans, in a turban, with the favourite spaniel who appears in many of
+her portraits. She holds in her hand the picture of her lord and master,
+the duke who was so jealous of her. A new grand staircase with
+elaborately carved newels, after the style of that at Hatfield, has been
+added to the mansion recently, and harmonises admirably with its more
+ancient surroundings.
+
+The park is fine and extensive, but beyond, the signs of the proximity
+of busy Leeds obtrude and spoil the scenery. We went from here to the
+undesirable locality of Hunslet in search of a place called Knowsthorpe
+Hall, but had some considerable difficulty in finding it, for nobody
+seemed to know it by that name. "You warnts the Island," observed a
+mining gentleman, a light dawning upon him. So we got nearer by
+inquiring for "the Island," but then the clue was lost. Thousands of
+factory hands were pouring out of a very unlikely looking locality, but
+nobody knew such a place. In desperation we plunged into a primitive
+coffee-stall, around which black bogies were sitting at their mid-day
+meal. One of them with more intelligence than the rest knew the place,
+but couldn't describe how to get to it. "Go up yon road," he said, "and
+ask for 'Whitakers.'" We followed the advice, and at the turning asked
+for 'Whitakers.' "Is it the dressmakers ye mean?" was the reply of a
+small boy to whom we put the question. "Yes," we said, in entire
+ignorance whether it was the dressmakers or the almanac people. But
+having got so far there were landmarks that did the rest, and presently
+a big entrance gate was seen with painted on its side-pillars,
+"Knowsthorpe Olde Hall."
+
+[Illustration: GATEWAY, KNOWSTHORPE HALL.]
+
+But there was no Island, not even a moat. The smoke of Leeds has given
+the stone walls a coat of black, but otherwise it is not unpicturesque,
+and would be more so if this original gateway remained. Within the last
+two years this has been removed as well as the steps leading down from
+the terrace. The gateway was called the "Stone Chairs," because of the
+niches or seats on either side of it. It is now, we understand, at Hoare
+Cross, near Burton-on-Trent. There is much oak within the house, and one
+panelled room has a very fine carved mantelpiece. The oak staircase,
+too, is graceful as well as uncommon in design. Close against one side
+of the house is a stone archway with sculptured figures of the time of
+James I. on either side of it, and the old lady in charge related the
+history of this happy pair, how the gentleman had wooed the damsel (a
+Maynard), but as he had not been to the wars she would have nothing to
+say to him. Consequently he buckled on his sword and engaged in the
+nearest battle; and to prove his valour, brought back with him as a
+love-token the arm which he had lost,--a statement sounding somewhat
+contradictory. Naturally after that she fell into his--other arm, and
+accepted him on the spot. This daughter of Mars, of course, now
+"revisits the glimpses of the moon" with her lover's arm, not around her
+waist in the ordinary fashion, but in her hand; and those who doubt the
+story may see her effigy thus represented. But the dignity of this happy
+pair is somewhat marred, for the only use to which they are now put is
+to form a stately entrance to--a hen-coop!
+
+There are some interesting old houses between Leeds and Otley, the "Low"
+Halls of Rawdon and Yeadon, for instance. The former is a good
+Elizabethan house, and contains some interesting rooms. Low Hall,
+Yeadon, dates farther back, though its chief characteristics are of the
+same period. The interior is rich in ancient furniture, and there are
+some Knellers, which the artist is said to have painted on the spot. The
+saturnine features of the Merry Monarch are to be seen on one side of
+the huge Tudor fireplace, and near at hand Nell Gwyn, probably a more
+correct likeness than a flattering one. There are ancient cabinets,
+chests, and tables contemporary with the house; and what is more
+interesting still, the cabinets and chests contain relics of Mary Queen
+of Scots, and the ruffs and collars that were fashionable three
+centuries ago. A gallery, wainscoted with large panels of a later
+period, extends the length of the house; and at the western extremity of
+it a bedroom, also panelled, possesses a hiding-place or secret cupboard
+which it would baffle the most persevering to discover, but when the
+panel is pushed aside, the trick of it looks so very simple. Of the
+Stuart relics we shall speak presently in referring to Mary Queen of
+Scots' imprisonment at Bolton Castle.
+
+Passing through Guiseley, which is situated in the midst of worsted
+mills, with the stocks by a lamp-post in the middle of the street as if
+they were a present-day necessity, you climb a hill and then come
+suddenly upon a lovely view, with Otley, "the Switzerland of Yorkshire,"
+lying in the Wharfe valley below. The Chevin Hill is over nine hundred
+feet in height, and from it you are supposed to see York Cathedral on
+one side and the mountains of Westmoreland on the other. As the Chevin
+is the lion of the place, it is the duty of visitors to go to the top.
+Alpine climbers may enjoy this sort of task, but there are some people
+who do not even wish to say that they have seen a city some
+six-and-twenty miles away; but such as these who go to Otley and do not
+inconvenience themselves would be looked upon by the Otleyites with
+pity. But there is another thing which the town is proud of too, and
+that is its lofty Maypole, which, standing in a firm socket of stone, is
+guarded round by iron rails. There are far more Maypoles in Yorkshire
+than in any other county, and it is pleasing to find the people are thus
+conservative; though truly when they get blown down, they don't often
+trouble themselves enough to put them up again. There are some
+interesting monuments in the church, one on the right of the chancel to
+General Fairfax's grandparents, two stately recumbent effigies of James
+I.'s time. There are mural monuments to the Fawkeses of Farnley Hall (a
+much altered Elizabethan mansion, containing Cromwellian relics: the
+Lord Protector's hat, sword, and watch, and Fairfax's drum) and a
+Vavasour of Weston Hall, who was a philanthropist in his way, for he was
+buried in wool to promote the local trade. He is represented on his
+monument neatly packed, and looks so cosy that the bas-relief is
+suggestive of the undertaker's advertisement, "Why live and be wretched
+when you can be buried comfortably for five pound ten?" In the vestry
+there is a splendid set of old oak chairs of which the verger is not a
+little proud.
+
+[Illustration: LEATHLEY STOCKS.]
+
+[Illustration: STOCKS AT WESTON.]
+
+A pleasant meadow walk by the riverside leads to Leathley, which has a
+Norman church, but can scarcely be called a village, for there is no
+inn. A formidable pair of stocks stand ready by the churchyard; but as
+nothing stronger than milk can be procured, they have not been worn out
+with too much work. Again, at Weston on the other side of the Wharfe
+river we come across the roadside stocks (like the usual Yorkshire type,
+with two uprights of stone) by the spreading roots of an ancient tree.
+Weston Hall is a long low Tudor building, with at one end a broad bay of
+three storeys. An old banqueting-house in the grounds is ornamented
+with shields of arms; and formerly the windows of it were full of
+heraldic stained glass, some of which is now in the windows of the Hall.
+From here we went northwards in search of Swinsty Hall, over a lonely
+moorland district. The road goes up and up until you are not surprised
+when you come to a signpost pointing to "To Snowdon." To the left, you
+are told, leads to "Blubberhouses," wherever that may be. For preference
+we chose the latter road, and soon got completely lost in the wilds. The
+only sign of civilisation was a barn, where we had the fortune to find
+an old man who presumably spoke the pure dialect, for we couldn't make
+head or tail of it. "Swinsty--ai, you go on ter road until it is," was
+the direction he gave, and we went on and until it _wasn't_. At length,
+however, after plodding knee deep in marshy land and saturated heather,
+we found the object of our search perched in a lonely meadow above a
+wide stretch of water. It looked as if it had a gloomy history; and no
+wonder that some of the upper rooms are held in awe, for there the ghost
+of a person with the unromantic name of Robinson is said to count over
+his ill-gotten gains, which he brought down from London in waggons when
+the Plague of 1666 was raging. He had the good fortune to escape
+contamination, and once back with his plundered wealth he meant to have
+what nowadays we call "a good time"; but the story has a moral, for it
+got winded abroad how he got his gold, and nobody would have anything to
+do with him or his money, and by the irony of fate he had to spend the
+rest of his days in trying to wash away the germs of infection.
+
+[Illustration: SWINSTY HALL.]
+
+The hall is entered through a spacious porch in the roof of which is
+hung an enormous bell. The room you enter is by no means gloomy. A
+carved oak staircase with balustrade of peculiar form leads to other
+rooms panelled to the ceiling, with fine overmantels. The leads of the
+small window-panes are of fanciful design; one bears the date 1627 and
+the initials I. W. H., and these occur again with the date 1639 in some
+oak carving in one of the bedrooms. A "well" stone staircase between
+rough-hewn stone walls leads up to the attics, which have open timber
+roofs with semicircular span to the main beams. They look as if they
+were but recently put up, so fresh does the wood look, and the pegs that
+join the timbers still protrude as if they had just been hammered in,
+and awaited the workman's axe to cut them level. A word upon the subject
+of these old roofs may not be out of place. When old houses are
+restored, of course it is the proper thing to open out an original
+timber roof where the original hall or chamber has been divided and
+partitioned, but in so many instances nowadays flat ceilings are
+removed to show the open timbers which were _never intended to be
+seen_. Bedrooms are thus made cold and bare, with not nearly enough
+protection from the draughts from the tiles. The attics at Swinsty are a
+proof of this, there being no great distance between the floor and the
+roof. Another thing, if the floors were done away with here, Mr.
+Robinson would have to come down a storey, and that is not desirable.
+
+On the way to Swinsty, by the bye, a ruinous house is passed on the
+right about midway between there and Otley. It is of no great
+architectural interest, but is singular in construction, having a
+projecting turret containing a spiral staircase at the back, which
+presumably was the only entrance. It is lofty, and has square windows
+with a bay in the centre, but it is now only a shell. Mr. Ingram in his
+_Haunted Homes_ relates that Dob Park Lodge, as the place is called, is
+reputed to be haunted by a huge black dog who has the power of speech,
+and is said to watch over a hidden treasure in the vaults, like the dog
+with saucer eyes in Hans Andersen. The entrance to these is locally
+supposed to be somewhere at the foot of the winding stair, and so far
+only one person has ventured to explore the depths; but when he did, he
+actually saw a great chest of gold!--but then we must take into account
+that he was very drunk. Fewston village, not far from Swinsty, is
+picturesquely situated on a knoll above the lake or reservoir; but the
+church, mostly of William III.'s time, has nothing of interest save a
+few stalls and a pretty little font cover. The wooden spiked altar
+rails might almost be the palings of a suburban garden, whilst the crude
+square panes of red and blue of the chancel windows should be anywhere
+but in a church.
+
+To the north-east is "Catch'em Corner"; but it is uncertain what is to
+be caught except a chill, for the position is very bleak. Striking
+northwards we get into the delightful Nidd valley. To the right lies
+Ripley, famous for the rood screen, the ancient glass, and Edwardian
+tomb of the Ingilbys of the castle, which Tudor structure surrendered to
+the Parliament a day or so before Marston Moor was fought. Here Cromwell
+is said to have sat up all night before the battle, hob-a-nob with his
+unwilling hostess.
+
+Going northwards from Fewston, the prettiest part of the road to Pateley
+is struck near the village of Dacre. The romantic rocks and glens
+hereabouts are famous, and much frequented by tourists, consequently
+sixpences and threepences have to be frequently disbursed. The price is
+cheap enough, but the romance is spoiled. Hack Fall, near Masham, to the
+north-east, is as lovely a spot as one could wish to see, but there are
+too many signs of civilisation about. It is like taming a lion. The
+guide-book tells you to go along until you get to a "refreshment
+house," which almost reads like an advertisement in disguise.
+
+There is a sculptured Saxon cross in Masham churchyard, and the church
+contains a fine monument to the Wyvells of Burton Constable manor, an
+old house near Finghall, to the north-west, where members of the family
+are also buried. The famous Jervaulx Abbey ruins nestle in a hollow on
+the right of the road to Middleham. When close upon it we asked the way
+of a yokel, but he shook his head; and then it dawned upon him what we
+meant: "It's Jarvey ye warnt," he said, and pointed straight ahead.
+Scott's worthy, Prior Aylmer, would surely beam with joy at the tender
+care bestowed upon the remains of the establishment over which he once
+presided; and the park might grace the finest modern dwelling, judging
+by the well-kept lawns and walks; but all this trimness looks less
+natural to a ruin than the more rustic surroundings of Easby, for
+example. The remains of the Cistercian monastery are rather fragmentary,
+consisting mainly of some graceful octagonal pillars and a row of lofty
+lancet windows in the wall of the refectory, and some round-headed
+arches of the chapter-house. It was destroyed in 1539, and the beautiful
+screen of the church carried off to Aysgarth, where it may now be seen.
+
+Continuing along the road to Middleham, Danby Hall, the ancient seat of
+the Scropes, is seen in the distance on the right; but the river
+intervenes, and one has to go beyond East Witton before a crossing can
+be obtained. This village, built on either side of a wide green, has
+nothing out of the common except its Maypole and its very conspicuous
+Blue Lion rampant. A blue lion is a little change after the hackneyed
+red, and the beast looks proud of his originality. Witton probably was
+much prettier before the jubilee celebration of George III.'s reign,
+when the old church and most of the old houses were pulled down.
+
+By the old grey bridge (with the pillar of a sundial in the centre,
+dated 1674) the Cover and Yore Rivers join hands with not a little fuss,
+like the enthusiasm of a new-made friendship. The road to Danby Hall
+runs level with the river then branches to the left. The mansion is
+Elizabethan; but the stone balustrade was added in the middle of the
+seventeenth century, and the small cupola-crowned towers were added
+subsequently. The oldest part is a square tower to the north-east,
+where, in the time of religious persecution, there was a small oratory
+or chapel for secret services. In the heraldic glass of the windows the
+ancient family of Scrope may be traced from Lord Scrope who fought at
+Flodden up to the present day, and their history may be followed by the
+portraits of the various generations on the walls. A curious discovery
+was made here in the early part of the last century. One of the chimneys
+in a stack of four could not be accounted for, and a plummet of lead was
+dropped down each of them, three of which found an outlet but the fourth
+could not be found. To get at the bottom of the mystery, a not too bulky
+party was lowered down, and he found himself in a small chamber full of
+long cut-and-thrust swords, flintlock pistols, and the ancient saddlery
+of untanned leather for a troop of fifty horse. Not much value was set
+upon such things in those days, so the harness was put to good account
+and utilised for cart-horse gear upon the farm. But the dispersal of the
+ancient weapons has a history too, for at the time that England was
+trembling with the fear of an invasion from the dreaded "Boney," a
+cottage caught light one night on one of the surrounding hills; and this
+being taken as a signal of alarm, the beacon on top of Penhill was
+fired. The terror-stricken villagers rushed everywhere for weapons, but
+none could be provided, and the good squire of Danby speedily
+distributed the secret store which had been hidden in the house for the
+Jacobite insurrection of 1715. In time the yokels returned, and there
+was a week's rejoicing and merry-making that the blazing beacon after
+all had only proved a flash in the pan. The pistols and swords, however,
+were not returned save one, which may still be seen with the armourer's
+marks on the blade, "Shotley" on one side and "Bridge" on the
+other.[32] Another has found its way into the little museum at Bolton
+Castle. In demolishing a cottage at Middleham it was discovered up in
+the thatch roof, where it was put, perhaps, pending another alarm. The
+hiding-place was converted into a butler's room by Major Scrope's
+grandfather.
+
+Among the portraits are some good Lelys, including two of Sir Carr
+Scrope who was so enamoured of the Court physician's daughter.[33]
+Another Lely of a handsome girl is said to represent one of the Royalist
+Stricklands of Sizergh. Above the black oak staircase of James I.'s time
+hangs a rare portrait of Mary of Modena; for one seldom sees her when
+the beauty of youth had departed, for naturally she did not like to be
+handed thus down to posterity. The queen looks sour here, which tallies
+with the accounts we have of her in later life; but truly she had cause
+enough to make her sour.
+
+[Illustration: MIDDLEHAM CASTLE.]
+
+From the Yore River the ground ascends to Middleham, now only a sleepy
+looking village but called a "town." Above the roof-tops at the summit
+of the hill stands the mediæval castle where resided in great pomp that
+turbulent noble, Warwick the "kingmaker." Here it was that he
+imprisoned Edward IV., the monarch he had helped to put upon the throne,
+for daring to marry the widowed daughter of Sir Richard Woodville in
+preference to a Nevill. When, the year after reinstating Henry VI. for a
+brief space, the great feudal baron ended his career on Barnet
+battlefield, his castle at Middleham was handed over by Edward to his
+brother Richard, who had also a claim upon it by his marriage with the
+"kingmaker's" daughter. Here "Crookback," or rather "Crouchback," was
+living before he usurped the Crown in 1483; and here his son the young
+Prince Edward died upon the first anniversary, as a providential
+punishment for the death of his little cousins in the Tower. Richard, by
+the way, is said to have had another natural son who lived into the
+reign of Edward VI. and died in a small house on the Eastwell estate
+near Wye in Kent. Richard Plantagenet's death is duly recorded in the
+parish register, distinguished by the mark of a V, which distinguishes
+other entries of those of noble birth, and a plain tomb in the chancel
+is supposed to be his place of interment. Until an old man he preserved
+his incognito, when Sir Thomas Moyle discovered that a mason at work
+upon his house was none other than a king's son. His youth had been
+spent under charge of a schoolmaster, who had taken him to Bosworth
+field and introduced him into Richard's tent. The king received him in
+his arms and told him he was his father, and if he survived the battle
+he would acknowledge him to be his son; but if fortune should go against
+him, he should on no account reveal who he was. On the following day in
+entering Leicester a naked figure lying across a horse's back was
+pointed out to him as the same great person whose star and gaiter had
+inspired him with awe.
+
+The walls of the Norman castle keep are of immense thickness, and
+protected without by others almost as formidable of a later date. The
+great hall was on the first floor, and the tower where little Edward
+Plantagenet was born (the Red Tower) at the south-west corner; but
+tradition hasn't kept alive much to carry the imagination back to the
+time when the powerful Nevill reigned here in his glory. The escape of
+Edward IV. has been made realistic in the immortal bard's _King Henry
+VI._, and Scene v. Part iii. might be read in less romantic spots than
+in Wensleydale, with this grand old ruin standing out in the distance
+like one of Doré's castles. In this case, distance "lends enchantment,"
+as Middleham itself is by no means lovely. The ancient market-cross
+would look far less commonplace and tomb-like were the top of it again
+knocked off. The site of the swine market bears the cognosance of
+"Crouchback," which is scarcely a compliment to his memory; but this
+antique monument is put vastly in the shade by a jubilee fountain, the
+only up-to-date thing in the place, and quite out of harmony with the
+ring where bulls were baited within living memory.
+
+In Spennithorne church, near Middleham, there is an ancient altar-tomb
+of John Fitz-Randolph, of the family of the early lords of the castle
+before the Nevills became possessed of it. Along the font are several
+coloured shields of arms of the various families with whom they
+intermarried. The nave of the church has an odd appearance, as the north
+and south aisles are separated by a series of distinct arches, the
+latter Early English, the former pure Norman. A very interesting
+thirteenth-century screen was originally at Jervaulx Abbey. On the west
+wall there is a large fresco of Father Time, dating perhaps two hundred
+years later. The rector must be commended for hanging in his church a
+brief summary of the points of interest, and many might follow this
+laudable example.
+
+[Illustration: QUEEN'S GAP, LEYBURN "SHAWL."]
+
+[Illustration: BOLTON CASTLE.]
+
+[Illustration: BELLERBY OLD HALL.]
+
+Leyburn stands high among the hills, and must have been a picturesque
+old market-place before the ancient town-hall, market-cross, and two
+stately elms were removed. The great wide street has now a bare and by
+no means attractive appearance, and were it not for the lovely
+surroundings it would not form so popular a centre for exploring. The
+"Shawl," the huge natural terrace, on a rocky base high up above the
+tree-tops of the woods below, is, of course, its great feature, and a
+more delightful walk could not be found in England, with the softest
+turf to walk upon and the glorious panorama in front. Conspicuous among
+the heights is flat-topped Penhill, standing boldly out against the wide
+expanse of dale, upon whose crest are the ruins of a chapel of the old
+Knights Templars. A gap in the rock, with a path running westwards
+through the woods, is known as "Queen's Gap," for Mary Queen of Scots
+when she fled from Bolton Castle got thus far when she was overtaken in
+attempting to urge her horse through the narrow ravine. In consequence
+of this, the "Shawl" locally is said to derive its name from the shawl
+the prisoner dropped upon the way, giving her pursuers a clue; which on
+the face of it is ridiculous, as the name is derived either from the
+Saxon _Sholl_ or Scandinavian _Schall_. Bolton is some five miles away
+to the west, and the poor captive was to have gone northwards to
+Richmond and thence to her native land; and at Bellerby, between
+Richmond and Leyburn, a halt was to have been made at the Hall, the seat
+of the Royalist family of Scott, where a company of Scots guards was
+stationed ready to receive her. The old Hall still stands on the
+left-hand side of the village green as you enter, and looks as if it had
+a history.
+
+At Bolton the window may be seen from which she was lowered to the
+ground, and one can trace the way she took in a north-easterly direction
+across the rocky bed of the rushing stream into the woods below the
+"Shawl." The window from which she escaped is the upper one of the three
+running horizontally with the south-western tower. There is another
+window to the prison-room which looks into the inner courtyard. The
+apartment is grim and bare, with a small fireplace, and steps leading
+down into a larger bare apartment, once the "drawing-room." Though
+externally the castle is not so picturesque as Middleham, it is much
+more perfect and interesting. The hooded stone fireplaces remain in the
+walls, and various rooms can be located, from the hall and chapel to the
+vault-like stables in the basement. The well, too, is perfect, with
+scooped-out wall to the upper chambers, not forgetting the awful dungeon
+in the solid rock. A large apartment with wide Tudor fireplace has been
+converted into a museum, and the curiosities are of a varied nature,
+from cocking spurs and boxing-gloves from the sporting centres of
+Leyburn and Middleham to the bull-fight banderillos of Spain. There is
+quite an assortment of weird-looking instruments of torture, which,
+after all, are only toasting-dogs, huge cumbrous things like
+antediluvian insects or much magnified microbes. How is it these
+appurtenances of domestic comfort have entirely died out like the now
+extinct warming-pan? But this museum can no way be compared with Mr.
+Home's wonderful collections at Leyburn. Here you can learn something
+about everything, for the kindly proprietor of the museum takes a pride
+in describing his curios. Those who have been to Middleham and seen the
+castle immortalised by Shakespere, may here study Edward IV.'s fair
+hair. As rare a curiosity is a valentine of the time of William III.
+From the treasures of Egyptian tombs you skip to the first invented
+matches; from Babylonian inscriptions to early-Victorian samplers. And
+the learned antiquarian relates how he was educated in the old Yore mill
+at Aysgarth by old John Drummond, the grandson of the Jacobite Earl of
+Perth, who had to hide himself in a farm in Bishopdale (How Rig) for his
+hand in the '45, when the Scotch estates were confiscated for aiding the
+cause of the Bonnie Prince. Were it not for Mr. Home's interest in
+old-time customs, the bull-ring in the market-place would have
+disappeared, for the socket was nearly worn through when he had it
+repaired. He relates how at the last bull-baiting the infuriated beast
+got away and sent the whole sportsmen flying, and at length was shot in
+Wensley village.
+
+Wensley nestles in the valley, surrounded by hills. The interior of the
+church is rich in carvings from the ruinous abbey of Easby, near
+Richmond. The stalls from Easby have at the ends exceptionally bold and
+elaborate carvings with heraldic shields and arms, dating from the days
+of Edward IV. A nearly life-size brass, of the third Edward's time, is
+of its kind one of the finest in England,--an ecclesiastic in robes,
+with crossed hands pointing downwards. By the entrance door is a quaint
+old poor-box; but what first strikes the eye as you enter, is the
+parclose screen from Easby Abbey, which, ill fitting its confined space,
+partially blocks the windows; but the effect of the elaborate carving
+against the tracery is very striking. It is early-Tudor in date, and
+belonged to the Scrope chantry, whose arms appear upon it, with those of
+Fitz-Hugh, Marmion, and other noble families. Within this screen,
+evidently a good many years later, a manorial pew was made, the side of
+which is within the parclose. To amalgamate the two, the latter has been
+somewhat mangled, doors having been added, with a pendant aloft to
+balance other large hollow pendants in the various arches. Unfortunately
+the whole has been painted with a dull grey and grained, a feeble
+attempt to represent marble, and parts of it are also gilt. A fixed
+settle has been added to the interior, so unless carefully examined it
+is difficult to detect how the parclose and pew were made into one. The
+two-decker pulpit and the wide old-fashioned pews lined with faded green
+baize and pink rep, bring us back to more modern times; but one would be
+loath to see them removed if restoration funds were lavish. Beneath the
+great manorial pew lie at rest the remains of the daughter of the
+thirteenth Lord Scrope, who by marriage with the first Duke of Bolton
+brought the castle into the Poulett family: until then the Scropes had
+held possession through marriage with an heiress of the Nevills. The
+third wife of Charles Poulett, second Duke of Bolton, was Henrietta
+Crofts, the daughter of the Duke of Monmouth and Eleanor Needham.[34]
+
+The Scrope who had charge of the Scots queen at Bolton Castle was Henry,
+the eleventh lord, whose wife was sister to the captive's plotting
+lover, the Duke of Norfolk, who also lost his head through these
+ambitious schemes; and doubtless it was the duke who contrived the
+queen's escape. She had been brought from the castle of Carlisle in July
+1568, but after her attempt to escape was promptly removed (on January
+26) to Tutbury Castle under charge of the Earl of Shrewsbury. The
+furniture of her private altar at Bolton, the altar-cloth, part of a
+rosary, a small bronze crucifix, and an alms-bag, are now preserved at
+Low Hall, Yeadon, mentioned earlier in this chapter. Her hawking gloves
+also: these are said to have been given to Lord Scrope upon her leaving.
+
+Some miles to the west of Bolton is Nappa Hall (where the ancient family
+of Metcalfe lived since the reign of Henry VI., and where Metcalfes live
+to-day), a fortified manor-house with square towers (suggestive of
+Haddon), which also claims association with the unfortunate queen. By
+some accounts she slept here one night, by others two or more; and the
+tradition in the Metcalfe family says nine, in the highest chamber of
+the tallest tower. The date is not known, but probably she was brought
+here on her way from Carlisle Castle. The bed on which she slept, the
+top of which was very low, is now at Newby Hall, near Ripon. Our
+sanitary views being very distinct from those enlightened times, the
+pillars of these sixteenth-century beds are frequently raised (in some
+cases unnecessarily high), and unless one wished to be half-smothered,
+this is a natural thing to do if the bed is to be put to practical use;
+but nowadays the collectors of ancient furniture are again reducing the
+height, and bringing them down to their original proportions.
+
+[Illustration: ASKRIGG.]
+
+[Illustration: NAPPA HALL.]
+
+In asking the way to Nappa from the village of Askrigg, we were told to
+follow a "gentleman with a flock of sheep who was going up that way";
+but as the distance was the matter of a couple of miles--and Yorkshire
+miles too, we preferred to follow the telegraph poles, which, after all,
+was more expeditious and quite as reliable. We give this as an instance
+of the ordinary pace at which things move in these parts; and perhaps it
+is as well, otherwise the old Hall built by William Taunton in 1678 (so
+it says on the door), with its upper balcony of wood looking upon the
+quaint old market-cross where the bull-ring used to be, might have given
+way to co-operative stores or some new hideous building.
+
+The village-green of Bainbridge to the west is quite shut in with hills,
+and in the centre are the stocks, or rather the stone supports minus the
+most important part, with a rough rock seat which must have added
+considerably to the victim's discomfort. The principal curiosity,
+however, is the ancient custom prevailing here of blowing a horn at 10
+p.m. during the summer months, to guide belated travellers on the moors.
+This was an excellent provision for safety hundreds of years ago, when
+Bainbridge was practically in the midst of a forest, and even in the
+twentieth century may have its uses. The older horn, that was used
+half a century ago, is now in Bolton Castle Museum. It is very large,
+and curiously twisted. The houses at Bainbridge are of the ordinary ugly
+Yorkshire type; but on high ground overlooking a ravine stands a nice
+old gabled grange, which must have tempted many an artist and
+photographer to pause upon their way to the famous Falls. These, of
+course, are very fine, but to our mind far less beautiful than the
+single plunge of water just below the grange, from a wide and
+scooped-out bed of precipitous rock. Nor are the high, low, and middle
+Falls of Aysgarth half so picturesque, though in a sense they are more
+boisterous, like coppery boiling water.
+
+Aysgarth church is perched up high, and you have to climb up many steps
+to reach it from the moss-grown bridge. The doors of most of the
+Yorkshire churches we found were kept unlocked; but this was an
+exception, so down those steps we had to come, to go in search of a key;
+but reaching the bottom of the flight, up we had to go again to try and
+find the rectory. Oh! the time that may be lost in hunting for a church
+key, and what a blessing it would be if notices were stuck up in the
+porches to say where they were kept. The interior of Aysgarth has a new
+appearance, but the splendid painted screen from Jervaulx (placed east
+and west instead of across the chancel) is worth a hunt for the key.
+Another screen, dated 1536, has upon it the grotesque carving of a
+fool's head with long-eared cap. Here again in the village are the
+stocks; but the Maypole, which once was its pride, long since has made
+its exit.
+
+[Illustration: RICHMOND.]
+
+By far the nearest way to Richmond from Leyburn is across the moor, a
+rough and desolate road, but preferable to the terrible long way by
+Catterick, more than double the distance (by rail it is four times the
+distance!). This is the prettiest village of any on the way (which is
+not saying much, be it said). The early fifteenth-century church has
+some good monuments and brasses, one of the latter to a lady who for
+many years before she died carried her winding-sheet about with her; and
+one would naturally suppose one with such gruesome ideas would still
+walk the earth for the edification of the timid, but she doesn't.
+
+The entrance to Richmond by the nearest way is very charming. You come
+suddenly upon the castle perched up over the river, and as you wind down
+the hill the grouping of its towers is thrown into perspective, forming
+a delightful picture with the river and the bridge for a foreground.
+Three kings have been prisoners within these formidable Norman walls:
+two kings of Scotland, William and David Bruce, and after the lapse of
+three centuries, Charles I., who passed here on his way to Holdenby. The
+stalls and misericordes in the fine old church came from Easby Abbey.
+They are boldly carved, and one of them represents a sow playing a
+fiddle for the edification of her little pigs. There is a curious
+coloured mural monument, on the east side of the chancel, of Sir Timothy
+Hutton and his wife and children--twelve of them, including four babes,
+beneath two of which are these verses:
+
+  "As carefull mothers do to sleeping say,
+  Their babes that would too long the wanton play;
+  So to prevent my youths approaching crimes,
+  Nature my nurse had me to bed betimes."
+
+The next is less involved:
+
+  "Into this world as strangers to an inn
+  This infant came, guest wise;
+  Where when 't had been and found no entertainment worth her stay,
+  She only broke her fast and went away."
+
+Altogether it is a cheery tomb. Faith, Hope and Charity are there, one
+of whom acts as nurse to one of the babes. Her ladyship's expression is
+somewhat of the Aunt Sally type, but that was the sculptor's fault. The
+ancient church plate includes a chalice dated 1640. The registers are
+beautifully neat and clean, and full of curious matter, such as the
+banns being read by the market-cross.
+
+Apropos of Yorkshire marriages, the odd custom prevails in some parts of
+emptying a kettle of boiling water, down--not the backs of the happy
+pair, but down the steps of the front door as they drive away, that the
+threshold may be "kept warm for another bride," we presume for _another_
+swain. The way also of ascertaining whether the future career of those
+united will be attended with happiness is simple and effective. All you
+have to do is, as the bride steps out of the carriage, to fling a plate
+containing small pieces of the wedding-cake out of a window upon the
+heads of the onlookers. If the crowd is a small one, and the plate
+arrives on the pavement and is smashed to pieces, all will go well; but
+if somebody's head intervenes, the augury is ominous; which, after all,
+is only natural, for is it not likely that one thus greeted would call
+at the house to bestow his blessing upon somebody? What a pity this
+pretty custom is not introduced into the fashionable marriages of St
+George's, Hanover Square. It would at least create a sensation.
+
+For the rest of Richmond church, well--it was restored by Sir Gilbert
+Scott. It is regrettable to find the piscina on a level with the floor,
+beneath a pew seat!
+
+The curfew still rings at Richmond, telling the good people when to go
+to bed; but whether they go or not is another matter. We are told it is,
+or was, also rung for them to get up again at six o'clock; and the aged
+official whose duty it was to ring the morning bell, like a wise man,
+did so at his leisure, lying in bed with the rope hanging from the
+ceiling.[35]
+
+[Illustration: EASBY ABBEY.]
+
+From the churchyard, Easby Abbey is seen in the distance in a romantic
+spot by the river: and the walk there is delightful, along the terrace
+above the Swale. Like the rest of these fine structures, it was
+destroyed by the vindictive Henry in 1535. The water close at hand, the
+old abbot's elm, and the little church and gatehouse beyond, altogether
+make this a spot in which to linger and ruminate. The church walls are
+covered with curious and very well preserved paintings of the twelfth
+century, giving a good idea of the costume of the period. The tempting
+serpent, too, is shown twisted in artistic coils around a very
+pre-Raphael looking tree; and in another scene the partakers of the
+fruit are doubled up with remorse, or dyspepsia.
+
+So close at hand as is Bolton on Swale, to the east, it would be a pity
+not to mention Henry Jenkins, who died there in 1670, aged one hundred
+and sixty-nine!--a man in Charles II.'s reign who remembered the
+dissolution of the monasteries, and who recollected as a boy assisting
+in carrying arrows in a cart to the battle of Flodden field (where
+veteran soldiers remembered the accession of King Edward IV.), was a
+wonder compared with the feeble memory of our present-day centenarians,
+who rarely recollect anything worth recording. When we think how nearly
+we are linked with 1670 by the life of Mrs. William Stuart, who died in
+the late queen's reign, and who heard from the lips of her grandmother
+how she had been taken to Court in a black-draped Sedan when Whitehall
+was in mourning for the death of the king's sister, Henrietta, Duchess
+of Orleans,--it would have been possible for the little girl to have
+spoken with old Jenkins, and thus with only three lives to have linked
+the early part of the reign of Henry VIII. with that of Victoria.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[31] We have described these relics (now in the possession of Mrs.
+Martin-Edmunds) in detail in the _Memoirs of the Martyr King_.
+
+[32] In the account in _Secret Chambers_ of the inscription on the
+swords, it is given in error as "Shortly."
+
+[33] See _Some Beauties of the Seventeenth Century_.
+
+[34] See _King Monmouth_.
+
+[35] This and other information we have derived from Mr. Harry Speight's
+interesting work, _Romantic Richmond_.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+
+  Abbotts Ann, 221.
+  Amber, river, 217.
+  "Angel," Ringwood, 178.
+  "Angel," Stilton, 10.
+  "Angel," Yeovil, 145.
+  Ashford, 221.
+  Ashover, 217.
+  Askrigg, 261.
+  Athelhampton, 173, 174, 175.
+  Avon, river, 84, 85.
+  Axmouth, 169.
+  Aysgarth, 249, 262, 263.
+
+  Baddesley Clinton, 72, 73, 76.
+  Bainbridge, 262.
+  Barnard Castle, 225.
+  Barnborough, 230.
+  Barnstaple, 164, 165, 166.
+  Barrington Court, 135, 137, 138.
+  Barton Hall, 23.
+  Barton-on-the-Heath, 66, 67.
+  Beckington Castle, 130.
+  Beeley, 210.
+  Beer, 168, 169.
+  Bellerby, 256.
+  "Bell," Mildenhall, 22.
+  "Bell," Sandy Lane, 105.
+  "Bell," Stilton, 10, 86.
+  Bere Regis, 158, 176, 177.
+  Beverstone Castle, 100.
+  Bewley Court, 109.
+  Biddestone, 114.
+  Bildeston, 32.
+  Bindon, 169.
+  Birdlip, 97.
+  Birtsmorton Court, 81, 83, 84.
+  Bishop's Lydeard, 147, 148.
+  "Black Horse," Birdlip, 98.
+  Blackladies, 199.
+  Blickling Hall, 45, 46, 47, 49.
+  Blore Heath, 192, 193.
+  "Blue Lion," East Witton, 249.
+  Bolsover Castle, 210, 217.
+  Bolton Castle, 251, 256, 260, 262.
+  Bolton-on-Swale, 267.
+  Bossington, 159.
+  Bovey, 169.
+  Bowes, 225.
+  Brailes, 68.
+  Brampton, 4.
+  Branscombe, 167, 168.
+  Braunton, 165.
+  Broadway, 85, 87, 89, 90.
+  Bromham, 103, 105.
+  Brotherton, 236.
+  Broughton Hall, 193, 194.
+  Brympton D'Eversy, 135, 141.
+  Brynkinalt, 185.
+  Buckingham's hole, Blore, 192.
+  Buckland, 89, 90.
+  Bullich House, Allington, 117.
+  Burrow Farm, 136.
+  Burton Constable, 248.
+  Bury St. Edmund's, 27, 31.
+  Bushley, 83.
+
+  "Cannard's Grave," Shepton Mallet, 133, 134.
+  Carhampton, 157, 158.
+  Castle Combe, 114.
+  "Castle Inn," Castle Combe, 116.
+  Catterick, 263.
+  Chapel Plaster Hermitage, 110.
+  Charlcote, 72, 73.
+  Charterhouse Hinton, 128.
+  Chastleton, 62, 64, 66.
+  Chatsworth, 208, 210.
+  Chavenage Manor House, 100, 101.
+  Chedzoy, 135.
+  Cheney Court, 111.
+  Chevin Hill, 242.
+  Chideock, 171, 172.
+  Chipping Campden, 87, 92.
+  Chipping Norton, 61.
+  Chirk Castle, 181.
+  Church House, Crowcombe, 149.
+  Church Stanway, 90.
+  Church Stretton, 188, 189.
+  Claverton Down, 111.
+  Clifton Maybank, 143.
+  Clovelly, 162, 163.
+  Coaxden, 170.
+  Colerne, 112.
+  Coles Farm, Box, 111, 112.
+  Combe St. Nicholas, 145.
+  Combe Sydenham 152, 153.
+  Compton Wyniates, 42, 68, 69, 70, 72, 73.
+  Condover Hall, 187, 188.
+  Connington Hall, 7.
+  Coombe Abbey, 72, 195.
+  Coppingford, 6.
+  Corby, 20, 21.
+  Corsham Court, 109, 112, 113, 114, 128.
+  Cothelstone, 148.
+  Court Farm, Hadleigh, 33.
+  Cover, river, 250.
+  Crimplesham, 56.
+  Croscombe, 132, 133.
+  Crowcombe, 132, 149, 150, 152, 153.
+  Crowther's Farm, 178.
+  Croxton, 194.
+  Croyde Bay, 166.
+  Culford, 26.
+  Curry Rivel, 135, 136.
+
+  Dacre, 248.
+  Dalby, 10.
+  Danby Hall, 249, 250.
+  Darfield, 230.
+  Dedham, 34.
+  Deene, 15, 16, 18.
+  Derwent, river, 210.
+  Dethick-cum-Lea, 217.
+  Dob Park Lodge, 247.
+  Dover Hill, 89, 92.
+  Downham Market, 56.
+  Downside, Shepton Mallet, 133.
+  "Dun Cow," Market Drayton, 190.
+  Dunster Castle, 155, 157, 158.
+
+  Easby, 249, 258, 259, 264, 266.
+  East Barsham Manor House, 41, 42.
+  East Bergholt, 34.
+  East Witton, 249.
+  Eaton Constantine, 188.
+  Edensor, 209.
+  Eleanor Crosses, 21.
+  Elworthy, 153.
+  Enmore Castle, 150, 151.
+  Ermine Street. 6, 97.
+  Erwarton Hall, 36.
+
+  Fakenham, 42, 43.
+  Farleigh Castle, 128, 136.
+  Farnley Hall, 243.
+  "Feathers," Ludlow, 188.
+  Fenstanton, 223.
+  Ferrybridge, 236.
+  Fewstone, 247, 248.
+  Finghall, 248.
+  Flatford, 34, 35.
+  Foss way, 134.
+  Fotheringay Castle, 7, 12, 13, 14, 15.
+  Four-Shire Stone, 66.
+
+  Gastard, 109, 110.
+  Gaulden, 154.
+  Gedding Hall, 31.
+  Geddington, 21.
+  "George," Glastonbury, 126.
+  "George," Huntingdon, 2.
+  "George," Norton St. Philip, 125.
+  "George," Sandy Lane, 105.
+  "George," Yeovil, 145.
+  Glatton, 7.
+  Glossop, 222, 223.
+  Godmanchester, 4.
+  "Golden Lion," Barnstaple, 164.
+  Great Chaldfield, 118, 121, 135.
+  Great Houghton, 230.
+  Great Snoring, 42.
+  Great Torrington, 53.
+  Great Wenham, 35.
+  "Green Dragon," Chipping Campden, 88.
+  "Green Dragon," Combe St. Nicholas, 145.
+  Guiseley, 242.
+
+  Hack Fall, 248.
+  Haddon Hall, 54, 86, 170, 183, 196, 200.
+  Hadleigh, 32, 34.
+  Hardeby, 21.
+  Hardwick, Derby, 143, 210, 212, 239.
+  Hardwick, Suffolk, 30.
+  "Hare and Hounds," East Bergholt, 35.
+  Harkstead, 36.
+  Hathersage, 222.
+  Hautboys Hall, 53.
+  Hawstead Place, 30, 31.
+  Hazelbury House, Box, 111.
+  Helmingham, 27, 150.
+  Hemington, 15.
+  Hengrave Hall, 26, 27, 28.
+  Heytesbury, 128.
+  Hinchinbrooke, 1, 3.
+  Hinton St George, 135, 138, 139, 143.
+  Hoare Cross, 240.
+  Hobbal Grange, 198, 199.
+  Holkham Hall, 40.
+  Holt Lodge, 178.
+  Hungerford Hospital, Corsham, 112.
+  Hunslet, 239.
+  Hunters' Hall, Colerne, 112.
+  Huntingdon, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 11.
+
+  Jervaulx Abbey, 248, 255, 263.
+
+  Kenilworth, 27, 72.
+  Kineton, 94.
+  "King's Arms," Market Drayton, 190.
+  Kingston, 147.
+  Kingston Lacy, 179.
+  Kingston St Michael, 117.
+  Kippax Park, 237.
+  Kirby Hall, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 42.
+  Knapton, 44.
+  Knowsthorpe Hall, 239.
+
+  Lacock Abbey, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109.
+  Langley, 188.
+  Langport, 135.
+  Lark, river, 24.
+  Leathley, 244.
+  Ledston Hall, 237.
+  Leyburn, 255, 256, 257, 263.
+  Little Compton, 61, 62.
+  Little Gidding, 7.
+  Little Saxham Hall, 26.
+  Little Stukeley, 5,6.
+  Little Wenham, 35.
+  Little Woolford, 66.
+  Long Compton, 59, 60, 61.
+  Long Marston, 89.
+  Low Hall, Rawdon, 241.
+  Low Hall, Yeadon, 241, 260.
+  Ludford, 188.
+  Ludlow Castle, 188.
+  "Luttrell Arms," Dunster, 157.
+  Lydcote, 53.
+  "Lygon Arms," Broadway, 85.
+  Lymington, 139, 140.
+  Lynmouth, 160.
+  Lynton, 160, 161.
+  Lytes Cary, 134.
+
+  Malvern Chase, 81.
+  Mannington Hall, 49.
+  Manor Farm, Norton St Philip, 124.
+  Mapperton Manor House, 173.
+  Market Drayton, 189.
+  Martock, 135, 138.
+  Masham, 248.
+  Maxstoke Castle, 72.
+  Melksham, 109, 118, 151.
+  Melplash Court, 173.
+  Menden, 72, 73.
+  Mickleton, 89.
+  Middleham, 248, 249, 251, 252, 254, 257.
+  Middlesoy, 135.
+  Mildenhall, 22, 23, 24.
+  Minehead, 158.
+  Monksilver, 152, 154.
+  Monmouth House, Shepton Mallet, 134.
+  Montacute House, 135, 142, 143.
+  Montacute Priory, 144.
+  Mundesley, Rookery Farm, 44.
+  Mundford, 56.
+
+  Nailsworth, 99, 100.
+  Nappa Hall, 260, 261.
+  Needham Market, 31.
+  Nene, river, 12.
+  Neston, 110.
+  Nettlecombe, 153.
+  Newbury Farm, Bildeston, 32.
+  Newby Hall, 261.
+  "New Inn," Clovelly, 163.
+  North Lees, Hathersage, 222.
+  Norton House, Chipping Campden, 89.
+  Norton St Philip, 123, 126, 127, 128.
+
+  Offenham, 85.
+  Old Cleeve, 154.
+  "Old Hall Inn," Great Houghton, 231.
+  "Old Red Lion," Long Compton, 59.
+  Old Weston, 223.
+  Orwell, river, 34.
+  Otley, 242, 243, 246.
+  Oundle, 11.
+  Ouse, river, 4, 223.
+  Oxburgh Hall, 53, 54, 55.
+  Oxnead Hall, 47, 53.
+
+  Painswick, 98.
+  Parnham Hall, 173.
+  Payne's Place, Bushley, 83, 144.
+  "Peacock," Rowsley, 207.
+  Penhill, 251, 255.
+  Pilsdon, 171.
+  Pilton, 165.
+  Pirton Court, 80.
+  Pitchford Hall, 187, 188.
+  Pixham, 78.
+  Plâs Baddy, 185.
+  Plash Hall, 188.
+  Plumpton Hall, 30.
+  Pontefract Castle, 283.
+  Pontfaen, 186.
+  Porlock, 159, 160, 161.
+  Postlip Hall, 93, 96.
+  Powick Bridge, 78.
+  Priors Court, 78.
+  Puddletown, 175, 176.
+
+  Raynham Hall, 42, 47, 48, 74.
+  "Raven," Church Stretton, 189.
+  Rawdon, 241.
+  "Red Lion," Chipping Camden, 88.
+  Richmond, Yorkshire, 256, 258, 263, 264, 266.
+  Ripley, 247.
+  Ripple, 84.
+  Rodborough, 99.
+  Rollright Stones, 60.
+  Rushbrooke Hall, 27, 28, 29, 30.
+
+  St. Giles Park, 178, 179.
+  Sandford Orcas, 135, 140, 141.
+  Severn End, 80, 81, 195.
+  Severn, river, 84.
+  Sheffield Manor House, 208, 213, 225.
+  Sheldon Manor, 118.
+  Shepton Mallet, 132, 133.
+  "Ship Inn," Porlock, 160.
+  Shrewsbury, 81, 181, 188, 189.
+  Shute House, 170.
+  Silton, 171.
+  Snowre Hall, 55.
+  Somerton, 135.
+  Southam House, 93, 96.
+  Southfield, Woodchester, 99.
+  South Petherton, 135, 138.
+  South Wraxall, 118, 121.
+  Spaxton, 151.
+  Spennithorne, 254.
+  Sprowston, 58.
+  Spye Park, 104, 105, 109, 151.
+  Stainborough Hall, 228.
+  Stamford, 16, 18.
+  Stanfield Hall, 53.
+  Stanton, 89, 90.
+  Stanton St. Quinton, 117.
+  Stanway-in-the-Woods, 89.
+  Stiffkey Hall, 41.
+  Stilton, 8, 10, 11, 86.
+  Stogumber, 153.
+  Stoke Ferry, 53.
+  Stokesay Castle, 186.
+  Stour, river, 34.
+  "Strafford Arms," Stainborough, 229.
+  Strensham, 84.
+  Sudeley Castle, 93, 96, 100.
+  Swale, river, 266.
+  "Swan and Salmon," Little Stukeley, 5.
+  "Swan Inn," Downham Market, 56, 58.
+  Swinnerton Hall, 194.
+  Swinsty Hall, 244.
+
+  "Talbot," Oundle, 12.
+  Tamworth Castle, 72.
+  Tansor, 15.
+  Taunton, 136, 147.
+  Tawstock, 166, 167.
+  Temple Newsam, 229, 237.
+  Tetbury, 100.
+  Tewkesbury, 81, 83, 84, 181.
+  Thorpland Hall, 42.
+  Tintinhull Court, 135, 140.
+  Tissington, 221.
+  Tixall, 195.
+  Tong, 196, 197, 199.
+  Trent House, 135, 140, 156.
+  Trentham, 195.
+  Trunch, 44.
+  Tudor House, Broadway, 86.
+  "Turk's Head," Oundle, 11.
+  Tutbury Castle, 260.
+
+  Walsingham, 43, 44.
+  Wamil Hall, 24.
+  Warwick Castle, 72.
+  Waterstone, 173, 174.
+  Wellow, 127, 128.
+  Wells-next-the-Sea, 40, 43, 44.
+  Wensley, 258.
+  Wentworth Castle, 227, 230, 237.
+  Wentworth Woodhouse, 228, 229.
+  West Lydford, 134.
+  Weston Hall, 244.
+  Weston Zoyland, 135.
+  West Stow Hall, 24, 32.
+  Wharfe, river, 242, 244.
+  White House of Pixham, 78.
+  White Lackington, 137.
+  "White Lion," Hadleigh, 34.
+  Wimborne Minster, 177, 179.
+  Winchcombe, 93.
+  Wingfield Manor, 209, 215.
+  Winnington, 189.
+  Wolverton, 173, 174.
+  Woodchester, 99.
+  Woodlands, 178.
+  Wood Stanway, 90.
+  Wool, 176.
+  Wootton Lodge, 195, 196.
+  Wormleighton, 13.
+  Wormwood Farm, Neston, 110.
+  Worsborough, 226, 227.
+  Wothorpe Hall, 18.
+  Wye, river, 204.
+  Wylde Court, 171.
+  Wymondham, 51, 52, 53.
+
+  Yatton Keynell, 116, 117, 118.
+  Yeadon, 241.
+  Yew Tree Farm, Bushley, 83.
+  Yore, river, 250, 252.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Nooks and Corners of Old England, by Allan Fea
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Nooks and Corners of Old England, by Allan Fea.
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+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Nooks and Corners of Old England, by Allan Fea
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Nooks and Corners of Old England
+
+Author: Allan Fea
+
+Release Date: September 11, 2012 [EBook #39685]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD ENGLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Annie McGuire. This book was produced from
+scanned images of public domain material from the Google
+Print archive.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 381px;">
+<img src="images/ill_001.jpg" width="381" height="600" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2>NOOKS AND CORNERS</h2>
+
+<h2>OF OLD ENGLAND</h2>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 274px;"><a name="ILL_002" id="ILL_002"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_002.jpg" width="274" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">Queen Eleanor&#39;s<br />Cross at Geddington</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2>NOOKS AND CORNERS</h2>
+
+<h2>OF OLD ENGLAND</h2>
+
+<h3>BY</h3>
+
+<h2>ALLAN FEA</h2>
+
+<p class="center">AUTHOR OF</p>
+
+<p class="center">"SECRET CHAMBERS AND HIDING PLACES" "PICTURESQUE OLD HOUSES"</p>
+
+<p class="center">"FLIGHT OF THE KING" ETC.</p>
+
+<h3>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS</h3>
+
+<h3>BY THE AUTHOR</h3>
+
+<h4>NEW YORK</h4>
+
+<h4>CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS</h4>
+
+<h4>1908</h4>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h4>TO</h4>
+
+<h4>MY OLD FRIEND</h4>
+
+<h4>SEYMOUR LUCAS, R.A., F.S.A.</h4>
+
+<h4>THIS BOOK</h4>
+
+<h4>IS AFFECTIONATELY</h4>
+
+<h4>INSCRIBED</h4>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<p>A recent glance over some old Ordnance Maps, the companions of many a
+ramble in the corners of Old England, has suggested the idea of jotting
+down a few fragmentary notes, which we trust may be of interest.</p>
+
+<p>Upon a former occasion we wandered with pencil and camera haphazard off
+the beaten track mainly in the counties surrounding the great
+Metropolis; and though there are several tempting "Nooks" still near at
+hand, we have now extended our range of exploration.</p>
+
+<p>We only trust the reader will derive a little of the pleasure we have
+found in compiling this little volume.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 34em;">A. F.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#NOOKS_IN_HUNTINGDONSHIRE"><span class="smcap">Nooks in Huntingdonshire and North Northants</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#SOME_SUFFOLK_NOOKS"><span class="smcap">Some Suffolk Nooks</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#NOOKS_IN_NORFOLK"><span class="smcap">Nooks in Norfolk</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#NOOKS_IN_WARWICKSHIRE"><span class="smcap">Nooks in Warwickshire and Borderland</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#SOME_NOOKS_IN_WORCESTERSHIRE"><span class="smcap">Some Nooks in Worcestershire and Gloucestershire</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#NOOKS_IN_NORTHERN_WILTSHIRE"><span class="smcap">Nooks in Northern Wiltshire</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#EASTERN_AND_SOUTHERN_SOMERSET"><span class="smcap">Eastern and Southern Somerset</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#IN_WESTERN_SOMERSET"><span class="smcap">In Western Somerset</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#IN_DEVON_AND_DORSET"><span class="smcap">In Devon and Dorset</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#HERE_AND_THERE_IN_SALOP"><span class="smcap">Here and There in Salop and Staffordshire</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#IN_NORTHERN_DERBYSHIRE"><span class="smcap">In Northern Derbyshire</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#NOOKS_IN_YORKSHIRE"><span class="smcap">Nooks in Yorkshire</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#INDEX"><span class="smcap">Index</span></a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_002"><span class="smcap">Queen Eleanor's Cross at Geddington</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_003"><span class="smcap">The Bell, Stilton</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_005"><span class="smcap">Kirby Hall</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_004"><span class="smcap">Wothorpe Manor-House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_006"><span class="smcap">Doorway, Kirby Hall</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_007"><span class="smcap">Gateway, Kirby Hall</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_008"><span class="smcap">Erwarton Hall</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_010"><span class="smcap">Walsingham</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_011"><span class="smcap">Walsingham</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_009"><span class="smcap">East Barsham Manor</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_012"><span class="smcap">Font Canopy, Trunch</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_013"><span class="smcap">Wymondham</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_014"><span class="smcap">Hautboys Hall</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_015"><span class="smcap">Chastleton</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_017"><span class="smcap">Pirton Court</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_016"><span class="smcap">The White House, Pixham</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_018"><span class="smcap">Severn End</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_019"><span class="smcap">Severn End</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_020"><span class="smcap">Ripple</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_021"><span class="smcap">Stanton</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_022"><span class="smcap">Stanway House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_023"><span class="smcap">Stanway House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_024"><span class="smcap">Postlip Hall</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_025"><span class="smcap">Stocks, Painswick</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_026"><span class="smcap">Nailsworth</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_027"><span class="smcap">Beverstone Castle</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_028"><span class="smcap">Gate-house, Spye Park</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_029"><span class="smcap">Lacock</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_030"><span class="smcap">Lacock</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_033"><span class="smcap">Bewley Court</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_031"><span class="smcap">Lacock</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_032"><span class="smcap">Lacock Abby</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_034"><span class="smcap">Corsham Almshouse</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_035"><span class="smcap">Corsham Almshouse</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_036"><span class="smcap">Corsham Almshouse</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_037"><span class="smcap">Castle Combe</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_038"><span class="smcap">Yatton Keynell Manor</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_039"><span class="smcap">Bullich Manor-House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_040"><span class="smcap">Sheldon Manor</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_041"><span class="smcap">Sheldon Manor</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_042"><span class="smcap">South Wraxall Manor-House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_043"><span class="smcap">South Wraxall Manor-House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_044"><span class="smcap">The George, Norton St. Philip</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_045"><span class="smcap">The George, Norton St. Philip</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_046"><span class="smcap">Charterhouse Hinton</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_047"><span class="smcap">Wellow Manor-House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_048"><span class="smcap">Old House near Croscombe</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_049"><span class="smcap">Beckington Castle</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_050"><span class="smcap">Croscombe Church</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_051"><span class="smcap">Croscombe</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_052"><span class="smcap">Lytes Cary Manor-House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_053"><span class="smcap">Lytes Cary Manor-House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_055"><span class="smcap">Ancient Screen, Curry Rivel Church</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_054"><span class="smcap">Fireplace, Lytes Cary</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_056"><span class="smcap">Barrington Court</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_057"><span class="smcap">Hinton St. George</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_058"><span class="smcap">Sandford Orcas Manor-House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_059"><span class="smcap">Montacute House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_060"><span class="smcap">Montacute Priory</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_061"><span class="smcap">Crowcombe</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_062"><span class="smcap">Old House, Crowcombe</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_064"><span class="smcap">Combe Sydenham</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_065"><span class="smcap">Combe Sydenham</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_063"><span class="smcap">Crowcombe Church</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_066"><span class="smcap">Dunster</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_068"><span class="smcap">Bindon</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_069"><span class="smcap">Bindon</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_070"><span class="smcap">Wylde Court</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_067"><span class="smcap">The Golden Lion, Barnstaple</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_071"><span class="smcap">Mapperton Manor-House</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_072"><span class="smcap">Melplash Court</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_073"><span class="smcap">Waterstone</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_074"><span class="smcap">Athelhampton</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_075"><span class="smcap">Athelhampton</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_076"><span class="smcap">Athelhampton</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_077"><span class="smcap">Monmouth's Tree</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_078"><span class="smcap">Servants' Hall, Chirk Castle</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_079"><span class="smcap">Servants' Hall, Chirk Castle</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_080"><span class="smcap">Market Drayton</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_081"><span class="smcap">Market Drayton</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_082"><span class="smcap">Blackladies</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_083"><span class="smcap">Great Hall, Haddon</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_084"><span class="smcap">Great Hall, Haddon</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_085"><span class="smcap">Courtyard, Haddon</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_086"><span class="smcap">Drawing-Room, Haddon</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_087"><span class="smcap">Withdrawing-Room, Haddon</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_088"><span class="smcap">Withdrawing-Room, Haddon</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_089"><span class="smcap">Doorway, Haddon</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_090"><span class="smcap">Interior Courtyard, Haddon</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_091"><span class="smcap">Great Hall, Haddon</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_092"><span class="smcap">Hardwick Hall</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_093"><span class="smcap">Garlands, Ashford Church</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_095"><span class="smcap">Gateway, Knowsthorpe Hall</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_094"><span class="smcap">Tomb, Darfield Church</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_096"><span class="smcap">Leathley Stocks</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_097"><span class="smcap">Stocks at Weston</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_099"><span class="smcap">Middleham Castle</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_098"><span class="smcap">Swinsty Hall</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_100"><span class="smcap">Queen's Gap, Leyburn "Shawl</span>"</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_102"><span class="smcap">Bellerby Old Hall</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_101"><span class="smcap">Bolton Castle</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_103"><span class="smcap">Askrigg</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_104"><span class="smcap">Nappa Hall</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_105"><span class="smcap">Richmond</span></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ILL_106"><span class="smcap">Easby Abbey</span></a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="NOOKS_IN_HUNTINGDONSHIRE" id="NOOKS_IN_HUNTINGDONSHIRE">NOOKS IN HUNTINGDONSHIRE</a></h2>
+
+<h2>AND NORTH NORTHANTS</h2>
+
+<p>At Huntingdon we are on familiar ground with Samuel Pepys. When he
+journeyed northwards to visit his parental house or to pay his respects
+to Lord Sandwich's family at Hinchinbrooke, he usually found suitable
+accommodation at "Goody Gorums" and "Mother" somebody else who lived
+over against the "Crown." Neither the famous posting-house the "George"
+nor the "Falcon" are mentioned in the <i>Diary</i>, but he speaks of the
+"Chequers"; however, the change of names of ancient hostelries is
+common, so in picturing the susceptible Clerk of the Admiralty chucking
+a pretty chambermaid under the chin in the old galleried yard of the
+"George," we may not be far out of our reckoning.</p>
+
+<p>But altogether the old George Inn is somewhat disappointing. Its
+balustraded galleries are there sure enough, with t<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span>he queer old
+staircase leading up to them in one of the corners; but it has the same
+burnished-up appearance of the courtyard of the Leicester Hospital at
+Warwick. How much more pleasing both would strike the eye were there
+less paint and varnish. The Inn has been refronted, and from the street
+has quite a modern appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Huntingdon recalls the sterner name of Cromwell. Strange that this
+county, so proud of the Lord Protector (for has it not recently set up a
+gorgeous statue at St. Ives to his memory?), should still harbour
+red-hot Jacobites! According to <i>The Legitimist Calendar</i>, mysterious
+but harmless meetings are still held hereabouts on Oak Apple Day: a day
+elsewhere all but forgotten. Huntingdon was the headquarters of the
+Royalist army certainly upon many occasions, and when evil days fell
+upon the "Martyr King," some of his staunchest friends were here
+secretly working for his welfare.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> When Charles passed through the
+town in 1644, the mayor, loyal to the back-bone, had prepared a speech
+to outrival the flowery welcome of his fellow-magistrates: "Although
+Rome's Hens," he said, "should daily hatch of its preposterous eggs,
+chrocodilicall chickens, yet under the Shield of Faith, by you our most
+Royal Sovereigne defended and by the King of Heavens as I stand and your
+most medicable councell, would we not be fearful t<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>o withstand them."<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>
+Though the sentence is somewhat involved, the worthy magnate doubtless
+meant well.</p>
+
+<p>It was the custom, by the way, so Evelyn tells us, when a monarch passed
+through Huntingdon, to meet him with a hundred ploughs as a symbol of
+the fruitful soil: the county indeed at one time was rich in vines and
+hops, and has been described by old writers as the garden of England.
+Still here as elsewhere the farmers' outlook is a poor one to-day,
+although there are, of course, exceptions.</p>
+
+<p>At historic Hinchinbrooke (on June 4, 1647), King Charles slept the
+first night after he was removed from Holdenby House by Cornet Joyce:
+the first stage of his <i>progress</i> to the scaffold. In the grounds of the
+old mansion, the monarch, when Prince of Wales, and little Oliver played
+together, for the owner in those days of the ancient seat of the
+Montagues and Cromwells was the future Protector's uncle and godfather.
+Upon one occasion the boys had a stand-up fight, and the commoner, the
+senior by only one year, made his royal adversary's nose bleed,&mdash;an
+augury for fatal events to follow. The story is told how little Oliver
+fell into the Ouse and was fished out by a Royalist piscatorial parson.
+Years afterwards, when the Protector revisited the scenes of his youth
+in the midst of his triumphant army, he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> encountered his rescuer, and
+asked him whether he remembered the occurrence.</p>
+
+<p>"Truly do I," was the prompt reply; "and the Lord forgive me, but I wish
+I'd let thee drown."</p>
+
+<p>The Montagues became possessed of the estate in 1627. Pepys speaks of
+"the brave rooms and good pictures," which pleased him better than those
+at Audley End. The Diarist's parental house remains at Brampton, a
+little to the west of Huntingdon. In characteristic style he records a
+visit there in October 1667: "So away for Huntingdon mightily pleased
+all along the road to remember old stories, and come to Brampton at
+about noon, and there found my father and sister and brother all well:
+and here laid up our things, and up and down to see the gardens with my
+father, and the house; and do altogether find it very pretty, especially
+the little parlour and the summer-houses in the garden, only the wall do
+want greens up it, and the house is too low roofed; but that is only
+because of my coming from a house with higher ceilings."</p>
+
+<p>Before turning our steps northwards, let us glance at the mediæval
+bridge that spans the river Ouse, to Godmanchester, which is referred to
+by the thirteenth-century historian <i>Henry of Huntingdon</i> as "a noble
+city." But its nobility has long since departed, and some modern
+monstrosities in architecture make the old Tudo<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>r buildings which
+remain, blush for such brazen-faced obtrusion. Its ancient water-mill
+externally looks so dilapidated, that one would think the next
+"well-formed depression" from America would blow it to atoms. Not a bit
+of it. Its huge timber beams within, smile at such fears. It is a
+veritable fortress of timber. But although this solid wooden structure
+defies the worst of gales, there are rumours of coming electric
+tramways, and then, alas! the old mill will bow a dignified departure,
+and the curfew, which yet survives, will then also perhaps think it is
+time to be gone.</p>
+
+<p>At Little Stukeley, on the Great North Road some three miles above
+Huntingdon, is a queer old inn, the "Swan and Salmon," bearing upon its
+sign the date 1676. It is a good example of the brickwork of the latter
+half of the seventeenth century. Like many another ancient hostelry on
+the road to York, it is associated with Dick Turpin's exploits; and to
+give colour to the tradition, mine host can point at a little masked
+hiding-place situated somewhere at the back of the sign up in its gable
+end. It certainly looks the sort of place that could relate stories of
+highwaymen; a roomy old building, which no doubt in its day had
+trap-doors and exits innumerable for the convenience of the gentlemen of
+the road.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A little off the ancient "Ermine Street," to the north-west of Stukeley,
+is the insignificant village of Coppingford, historically interesting
+from the fact that when Charles I. fled from Oxford in disguise in 1646,
+he stopped the night there at a little obscure cottage or alehouse, on
+his way to seek protection of the Scots at Southwell. "This day one
+hundred years ago," writes Dr. Stukeley in his <i>Memoirs</i> on May 3, 1746,
+"King Charles, Mr. John Ashburnham, and Dr. Hudson came from Coppingford
+in Huntingdonshire and lay at Mr. Alderman Wolph's house, now mine, on
+Barn Hill; all the day obscure." Hudson, from whom Sir Walter drew his
+character of Dr. Rochecliffe in <i>Woodstock</i>, records the fact in the
+following words: "We lay at Copingforde in Huntingdonshire one Sunday, 3
+May; wente not to church, but I read prayers to the King; and at six at
+night he went to Stamforde. I writte from Copingforde to Mr. Skipwith
+for a horse, and he sente me one, which was brought to me at Stamforde.
+&mdash;&mdash;at Copingforde the King and me, with my hoste and hostis and two
+children, were by the fire in the hall. There was noe other chimney in
+the house."<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> The village of Little Gidding, still farther to the
+north-west, had often before been visited by Charles in connection with
+a religious establishment that had been founded there by the Ferrar
+family. A curious old silk<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> coffer, which was given by Charles to the
+nieces of the founder, Nicholas Ferrar, upon one of these occasions,
+some years ago came into the possession of our late queen, and is still
+preserved at Windsor.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles to the north-east is Glatton, another remote village where
+old May-day customs yet linger. There are some quaint superstitions in
+the rural districts hereabouts. A favourite remedy for infectious
+disease is to open the window of the sickroom not so much to let in the
+fresh air as to admit the gnats, which are believed to fly away with the
+malady and die. The beneficial result is never attributed to oxygen!</p>
+
+<p>The Roman road (if, indeed, it is the same, for some authorities incline
+to the opinion that it ran parallel at some little distance away) is
+unpicturesque and dreary. Towering double telegraph poles recur at set
+intervals with mathematical regularity, and the breeze playing upon the
+wires aloft brings forth that long-drawn melancholy wail only to make
+the monotony more depressing. Half a mile from the main road, almost due
+east of Glatton, stands Connington Hall, where linger sad memories of
+the fate of Mary Queen of Scots. When the castle of Fotheringay was
+demolished in 1625, Sir Robert Cotton had the great Hall in which she
+was beheaded removed here. The curious carved oak chair which was used
+by the poor Queen at Fotheringay until the day <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>of her death may now be
+seen in Connington Church, where also is the Tomb of Sir Robert, the
+founder of the famous Cottonian Library.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILL_003" id="ILL_003"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_003.jpg" width="500" height="308" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">THE BELL, STILTON</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A couple of miles or so to the north is Stilton, which bears an air of
+decayed importance. A time-mellowed red-brick Queen Anne house, whose
+huge wooden supports, like cripples' crutches, keep it from toppling
+over, comes first in sight. In striking contrast, with its formal style
+of architecture, is the picturesque outline of the ancient inn beyond. A
+complicated flourish of ornamental ironwork, that would exasperate the
+most expert freehand draughtsman, supports the weather-beaten sign of
+solid copper. Upon the right-hand gable stands the date 1642, bringing
+with it visions of the coming struggle between King and Parliament. But
+the date is misleading, as may be seen from the stone groining upon the
+adjoining masonry. The main building was certainly erected quite a
+century earlier. Here and there modern windows have been inserted in
+place of the Tudor mullioned ones, as also have later doorways, for part
+of the building is now occupied as tenements. The archway leading into
+the courtyard has also been somewhat modernised, as may be judged from
+the corresponding internal arch, with its original curved dripstone<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>
+above.</p>
+
+<p>We came upon this inn, tramping northwards in a bitter day in March.
+It looked homely and inviting, the waning sunlight tinting the stonework
+and lighting up the window casements. Enthusiastic with pleasing
+imaginings of panelled chambers and ghostly echoing corridors, we
+entered only to have our dreams speedily dispersed. In vain we sought
+for such a "best room" as greeted Mr. Chester at the "Maypole." There
+were no rich rustling hangings here, nor oaken screens enriched with
+grotesque carvings. Alas! not even a cheery fire of fagots. Nor, indeed,
+was there a bed to rest our weary bones upon. Spring cleaning was
+rampant, and the merciless east wind sweeping along the bare passages
+made one shudder more than usual at the thought of that terrible annual
+necessity (but the glory of energetic house-wives). But surely mine
+hostess of the good old days would have scrupled to thrust the traveller
+from her door: moreover to a house of refreshment, or rather
+eating-house, a stone's-throw off, uncomfortably near that rickety
+propped-up red-brick residence.</p>
+
+<p>With visions of the smoking bowl and lavender-scented sheets dashed to
+the ground, we turned away. But, lo! and behold a good <i>angel</i> had come
+to the rescue. So absorbed had we been with the possibilities of the
+"Bell" that the "Angel" opposite had quite been overlooked. This rival
+inn of Georgian date furnished us with cosy quarters. From our
+flower-bedecked win<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>dow the whole front of the old "Bell" could be
+leisurely studied in all its varying stages of light and shade&mdash;an inn
+with a past; an object-lesson for the philosopher to ruminate upon. Yes,
+in its day one can picture scenes of lavish, shall we say Ainsworthian
+hospitality. There is a smack of huge venison pasties, fatted capons,
+and of roasted peacocks about this hoary hostel. And its stables; one
+has but to stroll up an adjacent lane to get some idea of the once vast
+extent of its outbuildings. The ground they covered must have occupied
+nearly half the village. Here was stabling for over eighty horses, and
+before the birth of trains, thirty-six coaches pulled up daily at the
+portal for hungry passengers to refresh or rest.</p>
+
+<p>The famous cheese, by the way, was first sold at this inn; but why it
+was dubbed Stilton instead of Dalby in Leicestershire, where it was
+first manufactured, is a mystery. Like its <i>vis-à-vis</i>, the "Angel" is
+far different from what it was in its flourishing days. The main
+building is now occupied for other purposes, and its dignity has long
+since departed. To-day Stilton looks on its last legs. The goggled
+motor-fiend sweeps by to Huntingdon or Peterborough while Stilton rubs
+its sleepy eyes. But who can tell but that its fortunes may yet revive.
+Was not Broadway dying a natural death when Jonathan, who invar<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>iably
+tells us what treasures we possess, stepped in and made it popular? Some
+enterprising landlord might do worse than take the old "Bell" in hand
+and ring it to a profitable tune. But judging by appearances, visitors
+to-day, at least in March, are few and far between.</p>
+
+<p>Half the charm of Stilton lies in the fact that there is no hurry. It is
+quite refreshing in these days of rush. For instance, you want to catch
+a train at Peterborough,&mdash;at least we did, for that was the handiest way
+of reaching Oundle, some seven miles to the west of Stilton as the crow
+flies. Sitting on thorns, we awaited the convenience of the horse as to
+whether his accustomed jog-trot would enable us to catch our train. We
+<i>did</i> catch it truly, but the anxiety was a terrible experience.</p>
+
+<p>Oundle is full of old inns. The "Turk's Head," facing the church, is a
+fine and compact specimen of Jacobean architecture. It was a brilliant
+morning when we stood in the churchyard looking up at the
+ball-surmounted gables standing out in bold relief against the clear
+blue sky, while the caw of a colony of rooks sailing overhead seemed
+quite in harmony with the old-world surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>More important and flourishing is the "Talbot," which looks
+self-conscious of the fact that in its walls are inc<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>orporated some of
+the remains of no less historic a building than Fotheringay Castle,
+whose moat and fragmentary walls are to be seen some three and a half
+miles to the north of the town. The fortress, with its sad and tragic
+memories of Mary Queen of Scots, was demolished after James came to the
+throne, and its fine oak staircase, by repute the same by which she
+descended to the scaffold, was re-erected in the "Talbot." The courtyard
+is picturesque. The old windows which light the staircase, which also
+are said to have come from Fotheringay, are angular at the base, and
+have an odd and pleasing appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Two ancient almshouses, with imposing entrance gates, are well worth
+inspection. There is a graceful little pinnacle surmounting one of the
+gable ends, at which we were curiously gazing when one of the aged
+inmates came out in alarm to see if the chimney was on fire.</p>
+
+<p>Fotheringay church, with its lantern tower and flying buttresses, is
+picturesquely situated close to the river Nene, and with the bridge
+makes a charming picture. The older bridge of Queen Mary's time was
+angular, with square arches, as may be seen from a print of the early
+part of the eighteenth century. In this is shown the same scanty remains
+of the historic Castle: a wall with a couple of Gothic doorways, all
+that survived of the formidable fortress that was the unfortunate
+queen's last prison-house. As at Cumnor, wher<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>e poor Amy Robsart was
+done to death in a manner which certainly Elizabeth hinted at regarding
+her troublesome cousin, there is little beyond the foundations from
+which to form an idea of the building. It was divided by a double moat,
+which is still to be seen, as well as the natural earthwork upon which
+the keep stood. The queen's apartments, that towards the end were
+stripped of all emblems of royalty, were situated above and to the south
+of the great hall, into which she had to descend by a staircase to the
+scaffold. Some ancient thorn trees now flourish upon the spot. The
+historian Fuller, who visited the castle prior to its demolition, found
+the following lines from an old ballad scratched with a diamond upon a
+window-pane of Mary's prison-chamber:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">"From the top of all my trust</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">Mishap hath laid me in the dust."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Though Mary's mock trial took place at Fotheringay in the "Presence
+Chamber," she was actually condemned in the Star Chamber at Westminster;
+and it may here be stated that that fine old room may yet be seen not
+very many miles away, at Wormleighton, near the Northamptonshire border
+of south-east Warwickshire. A farmhouse near Fotheringay is still
+pointed out where the executioner lodged the night before the deed; and
+some claim<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> this distinction for the ancient inn in which are
+incorporated some remains of the castle.</p>
+
+<p>As is known, the Queen of Scots' body was buried first in Peterborough
+Cathedral, whence it was removed to Westminster Abbey. There is a
+superstition in Northamptonshire that if a body after interment be
+removed, it bodes misfortune to the surviving members of the family.
+This was pointed out at the time to James I.; but superstitious as he
+was, he did not alter his plans, and the death of Prince Henry shortly
+afterwards seemed to confirm this belief.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p>
+
+<p>But there are other memories of famous names in history, for the head of
+the White Rose family, Richard of York, was buried in the church, and
+his duchess, Cecilia Neville, as well as Edward of York, whose death at
+Agincourt is immortalised by Shakespeare. When the older church was
+dismantled and the bodies removed to their present destination, a silver
+ribbon was discovered round the Duchess Cecilia's neck upon which a
+pardon from Rome was clearly written. The windows of the church once
+were rich in painted glass; and at the fine fifteenth-century font it is
+conjectured Richard III. was baptized, for he was born at the Castle.
+Crookback's badge, the boar, may still be seen in the church, and the
+Yorkist falcon and fetterlock are displayed on the summit o<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>f the vane
+upon the tower. Also some carved stalls, which came from here, in the
+churches of Tansor and Hemington to the south of Fotheringay, bear the
+regal badges and crest. The falcon and the fetterlock also occur in the
+monuments to the Dukes of York, which were rebuilt by Queen Elizabeth
+when the older tombs had fallen to decay. The allegiance to the
+fascinating Queen of Scots is far from dead, for in February 1902, and
+doubtless more recently, a gentleman journeyed specially from Edinburgh
+to Fotheringay to place a tribute to her martyrdom in the form of a
+large cross of immortelles bearing the Scots crown and Mary's monogram,
+and a black bordered white silk sash attached.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_004" id="ILL_004"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_004.jpg" width="400" height="293" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">WOTHORPE MANOR-HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A few miles to the west of this historic spot are the fine Tudor houses
+Deene and Kirby: the former still a palatial residence; the latter,
+alas! a ruin fast falling to decay. Deene, with its battlemented towers
+and turrets and buttressed walls, is a noble-looking structure, with
+numerous shields of arms and heraldic devices carved upon the masonry.
+These are of the great families, Brudenel, Montagu, Bruce, Bulstrode,
+etc., whose intermarriages are emblazoned in painted glass in the top of
+the mullioned windows of the hall. Sir Thomas Brudenel, the first Earl
+of Cardigan, who died three years after the Restoration, was a typical
+old cavalier afte<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>r the style of Sir Henry Lee in <i>Woodstock</i>; and in
+the manor are preserved many of his manuscripts written during his
+twenty years' confinement in the Tower. In the great hall there is a
+blocked-up entrance to a subterranean passage running towards Kirby, and
+through this secret despatches are said to have been carried in the time
+of the Civil War; and at the back of a fireplace in the same apartment
+is a hiding-place sufficiently large to contain a score of people
+standing up. One of the rooms is called Henry VII.'s room, as that
+monarch when Earl of Richmond is said to have ridden from Bosworth Field
+to seek refuge at Deene, then a monastery.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_005" id="ILL_005"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_005.jpg" width="400" height="294" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">KIRBY HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Among the numerous portraits are the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was slain
+by the second Duke of Buckingham in the notorious duel, and his wife
+Lady Anne Brudenel, who was daughter of the second Earl of Cardigan.
+Some time before the poor plain little duchess suspected that she had a
+formidable rival in the beautiful countess, she was returning from a
+visit to Deene to her house near Stamford, where her reckless husband
+just then found it convenient to hide himself, as a warrant for high
+treason was out against him, when she noticed a suspicious little
+cavalcade travelling in the same direction. Ordering the horses to be
+whipped up, she arrived in time to give the alarm. The duke had just set
+out for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> Burleigh House with some ladies in his company, and, says
+Clarendon, the sergeant "made so good haste that he was in view of the
+coach, and saw the duke alight out of the coach and lead a lady into the
+house, upon which the door of the court was shut before he could get to
+it. He knocked loudly at that and other doors that were all shut, so
+that he could not get into the house though it were some hours before
+sunset in the month of May."<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> Pepys was strolling in the park and met
+Sergeant Bearcroft "who was sent for the Duke of Buckingham, to have
+brought his prisoner to the Tower. He come to towne this day and brings
+word that being overtaken and outrid by the Duchesse of Buckingham
+within a few miles of the duke's house of Westhorp, he believes she got
+thither about a quarter of an hour before him, and so had time to
+consider; so that when he came, the doors were kept shut against him.
+The next day, coming with officers of the neighbour market-town
+[Stamford] to force open the doors, they were open for him, but the duke
+gone, so he took horse presently and heard upon the road that the Duke
+of Buckingham was gone before him for London. So that he believes he is
+this day also come to towne before him; but no newes is yet heard of
+him."<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> Many blunders have been made in reference to the duke's hou<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>se
+of "Westhorp." Some have called it "Owthorp" and others "Westhorpe" in
+Suffolk, the demolished mansion of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. The
+place referred to is really Wothorpe manor-house, the remains of which
+stand some two miles to the south of Stamford and ten to the north of
+Deene. The existing portion consists of four towers, the lower part of
+which is square and the upper octagonal, presumably having been at one
+time surmounted by cupolas. The windows are long and narrow, having only
+one mullion running parallel across. Beneath the moulding of the summit
+of each tower are circular loopholes. It is evidently of Elizabethan
+date, but much of the ornamental detail is lost in the heavy mantle of
+ivy and the trees which encircle it.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 297px;"><a name="ILL_006" id="ILL_006"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_006.jpg" width="297" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">DOORWAY, KIRBY HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>That that stately Elizabethan mansion, Kirby Hall (which is close to
+Deene), should ever have been allowed to fall to ruin is most
+regrettable and deplorable. It was one of John Thorpe's masterpieces,
+the architect of palatial Burleigh, of Holland House and Audley End, and
+other famous historic houses. He laid the foundation-stone in 1570, and
+that other great master Inigo Jones made additions in the reign of
+Charles I. The founder of Kirby was Sir Christopher Hatton, who is said
+to have first danced into the virgin queen's favour at a masque at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>
+Court. The Earl of Leicester probably first was famous in this way, if
+we may judge from the quaint painting at Penshurst, where he is bounding
+her several feet into the air; but was not so accomplished as Sir
+Christopher, who in his official robes of Lord Chancellor danced in the
+Hall of the Inner Temple with the seals and mace of his office before
+him, an undignified proceeding, reminding one of the scene in one of the
+Gilbert and Sullivan operas.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_007" id="ILL_007"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_007.jpg" width="400" height="281" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY, KIRBY HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Kirby must have been magnificent in its day; and when we consider that
+it was in occupation by the Chancellor's descendant, the Earl of
+Winchelsea, in 1830 or even later, one may judge by seeing it how
+rapidly a neglected building can fall into decay. Even in our own memory
+a matter of twenty years has played considerable havoc, and cleared off
+half the roof. Standing in the deserted weed-grown courtyard, one cannot
+but grieve to see the widespread destruction of such beautiful
+workmanship. The graceful fluted Ionic pilasters that intersect the
+lofty mullioned windows are falling to pieces bit by bit, and the
+fantastic stone pinnacles above and on the carved gable ends are
+disappearing one by one. But much of the glass is still in the windows,
+and some of the rooms are not all yet open to the weather, and the great
+hall and music gallery and the "Library" with fine bay window are both
+in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>a fair state of preservation. Is it yet too much to hope that pity
+may be taken upon what is undoubtedly one of the finest Elizabethan
+houses in England? The north part of the Inner Court is represented in
+S. E. Waller's pathetic picture "The Day of Reckoning," which has been
+engraved.</p>
+
+<p>Some three miles to the south of Kirby is the village of Corby, famous
+for its surrounding woods, and a curious custom called the "Poll Fair,"
+which takes place every twenty years. Should a stranger happen to be
+passing through the village when the date falls due, he is liable to be
+captured and carried on a pole to the stocks, which ancient instrument
+of punishment is there, and put to use on these occasions. He may
+purchase his liberty by handing over any coin he happens to have. It
+certainly is a rather eccentric way of commemorating the charter granted
+by Elizabeth and confirmed by Charles II. by which the residents (all of
+whom are subjected to similar treatment) are exempt from market tolls
+and jury service.</p>
+
+<p>A pair of stocks stood formerly at the foot of the steps of the graceful
+Eleanor Cross at Geddington to the south of Corby. Of the three
+remaining memorials said to have been erected by Edward I. at every
+place where the coffin of his queen rested on its way from Hardeby in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>
+Lincolnshire to Westminster Abbey, Geddington Cross is by far the most
+graceful and in the best condition. The other two are at Waltham and
+Northampton. Originally there were fifteen Eleanor crosses, including
+Hardeby, Lincoln, Stony Stratford, Woburn, Dunstable, St. Albans,
+Cheapside, and Charing Cross. The last two, the most elaborate of all,
+as is known, were destroyed by order of Lord Mayor Pennington in 1643
+and 1647, accompanied by the blast of trumpets.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="SOME_SUFFOLK_NOOKS" id="SOME_SUFFOLK_NOOKS">SOME SUFFOLK NOOKS</a></h2>
+
+<p>The idea of calling pretty little Mildenhall in north-west Suffolk a
+town, seems out of place. It is snug and sleepy and prosperous-looking,
+an inviting nook to forget the noise and bustle of a town in the
+ordinary sense of the word. May it long continue so, and may the day be
+long distant when that terrible invention, the electric tram, is
+introduced to spoil the peace and harmony. Mildenhall is one of those
+old-world places where one may be pretty sure in entering the snug old
+courtyard of its ancient inn, tha<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>t one will be treated rather as a
+friend than a traveller. Facing the "Bell" is the church, remarkable for
+the unique tracery of its early-English eastern window, and for its
+exceptionally fine open hammer-beam carved oak roof, with bold carved
+spandrels and large figures of angels with extended wings, and the
+badges of Henry V., the swan and antelope, displayed in the south aisle.</p>
+
+<p>In a corner of the little market-square is a curious hexagonal timber
+market-cross of this monarch's time, roofed with slabs of lead set
+diagonally, and adding to the picturesque effect. The centre part runs
+through the roof to a considerable height, and is surmounted by a
+weather-cock. Standing beneath the low-pitched roof, one may get a good
+idea of the massiveness of construction of these old Gothic structures;
+an object-lesson to the jerry builder of to-day. The oaken supports are
+relieved with graceful mouldings.</p>
+
+<p>Within bow-shot of the market-cross is the gabled Jacobean manor-house
+of the Bunburys, a weather-worn wing of which abuts upon the street. The
+family name recalls associations with the beautiful sisters whom
+Goldsmith dubbed "Little Comedy" and the "Jessamy Bride." The original
+"Sir Joshua" of these ladies may be seen at Barton Hall, another seat of
+the Bunburys a few miles away, where they played good-natured pract<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>ical
+jokes upon their friend the poet. In a room of the Mildenhall mansion
+hangs a portrait of a less beautiful woman, but sufficiently attractive
+to meet with the approval of a critical connoisseur. When the Merry
+Monarch took unto himself a wife, this portrait of the little Portuguese
+woman was sent for him to see; and presumably it was flattering, for
+when Catherine arrived in person, his Majesty was uncivil enough to
+inquire whether they had sent him a bat instead of a woman.</p>
+
+<p>A delightful walk by shady lanes and cornfields, and along the banks of
+the river Lark, leads to another fine old house, Wamil Hall, a portion
+only of the original structure; but it would be difficult to find a more
+pleasing picture than is formed by the remaining wing. It is a typical
+manor-house, with ball-surmounted gables, massive mullioned windows, and
+a fine Elizabethan gateway in the lofty garden wall, partly ivy-grown,
+and with the delicate greys and greens of lichens upon the old stone
+masonry.</p>
+
+<p>In a south-easterly direction from Mildenhall there is charming open
+heathy country nearly all the way to West Stow Hall, some seven or eight
+miles away. The remains of this curious old structure consist
+principally of the gatehouse, octagonal red-brick towers surmounted by
+ornamen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>tal cupolas with a pinnacled step-gable in the centre and the
+arms of Mary of France beneath it, and ornamental Tudor brickwork above
+the entrance. The passage leading from this entrance to the main
+structure consists of an open arcade, and the upper portion and
+adjoining wing are of half-timber construction. This until recently has
+been cased over in plaster; but the towers having become unsafe, some
+restorations have been absolutely necessary, the result of which is that
+the plaster is being stripped off, revealing the worn red-brick and
+carved oak beams beneath. Moreover, the moat, long since filled up, is
+to be reinstated, and, thanks to the noble owner, Lord Cadogan, all its
+original features will be most carefully brought to light. In a room
+above are some black outline fresco paintings of figures in Elizabethan
+costume, suggestive of four of the seven ages of man. Most conspicuous
+is the lover paying very marked attentions to a damsel who may or may
+not represent Henry VIII.'s sister at the time of her courtship by the
+valiant Brandon, Duke of Suffolk; anyway the house was built by Sir John
+Crofts, who belonged to the queen-dowager's household, and he may have
+wished to immortalise that romantic attachment. A gentleman with a
+parrot-like hawk upon his wrist says by an inscription, "Thus do I all
+the day"; while the lover observes, "Thus do I while I may." A third
+person, presumably getting on in years, says with a si<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>gh, "Thus did I
+while I might"; and he of the "slippered pantaloon" age groans, "Good
+Lord, will this world last for ever!" In a room adjoining, we were told,
+Queen Elizabeth slept during one of her progresses through the country,
+or maybe it was Mary Tudor who came to see Sir John; but the "White
+Lady" who issues from one of the rooms in the main building at 12
+o'clock p.m. so far has not been identified.</p>
+
+<p>In his lordship's stables close by we had the privilege of seeing "a
+racer" who had won sixteen or more "seconds," as well as a budding Derby
+winner of the future. Culford is a stately house in a very trim and
+well-cared-for park. It looks quite modern, but the older mansion has
+been incorporated with it. In Charles II.'s day his Majesty paid
+occasional visits to Culford <i>en route</i> from Euston Hall to Newmarket,
+and Pepys records an incident there which was little to his host's
+(Lord Cornwallis') credit. The rector's daughter, a pretty girl, was
+introduced to the king, whose unwelcome attentions caused her to make a
+precipitate escape, and, leaping from some height, she killed herself,
+"which, if true," says Pepys, "is very sad." Certainly Charles does not
+show to advantage in Suffolk. The Diarist himself saw him at Little
+Saxham Hall<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> (to the south-west of Culford), the seat of Lord Crofts,
+going to bed, after a heavy drinking bout with his boon companions<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>
+Sedley, Buckhurst, and Bab May.</p>
+
+<p>The church is in the main modern, but there is a fine tomb of Lady
+Bacon, who is represented life-size nursing her youngest child, while on
+either side in formal array stand her other five children. Her husband
+is reclining full length at her feet.</p>
+
+<p>Hengrave Hall, one of the finest Tudor mansions in England, is close to
+Culford. Shorn of its ancient furniture and pictures (for, alas! a few
+years ago there was a great sale here), the house is still of
+considerable interest; but the absence of colour&mdash;its staring whiteness
+and bare appearance&mdash;on the whole is disappointing, and compared with
+less architecturally fine houses, such as Kentwell or Rushbrooke, it is
+inferior from a picturesque point of view. Still the outline of gables
+and turreted chimneys is exceptionally fine and stately. It was built
+between the years 1525 and 1538. The gatehouse has remarkable
+mitre-headed turrets, and a triple bay-window bearing the royal arms of
+France and England quarterly, supported by a lion and a dragon. The
+entrance is flanked on either side by an ornamental pillar similar in
+character to the turrets. The house was formerly moated and had a
+drawbridge, as at Helmingham in this county. These were done a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>way with
+towards the end of the eighteenth century, when a great part of the
+original building was demolished and the interior entirely
+reconstructed. The rooms included the "Queen's Chamber," where Elizabeth
+slept when she was entertained here after the lavish style at Kenilworth
+in 1578, by Sir Thomas Kytson. From the Kitsons, Hengrave came to the
+Darcys and Gages.</p>
+
+<p>In the vicinity of Bury there are many fine old houses, but for
+historical interest none so interesting as Rushbrooke Hall, which stands
+about the same distance from the town as Hengrave in the opposite
+direction, namely, to the south-west. It is an Elizabethan house, with
+corner octagonal turrets to which many alterations were made in the next
+century: the windows, porch, etc., being of Jacobean architecture. It is
+moated, with an array of old stone piers in front, upon which the
+silvery green lichen stands out in harmonious contrast with the rich
+purple red of the Tudor brickwork. The old mansion is full of Stuart
+memories. Here lived the old cavalier Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans,
+who owed his advancement to Queen Henrietta Maria, to whom he acted as
+secretary during the Civil War, and to whom he was privately married<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>
+when she became a widow and lived in Paris. He was a handsome man, as
+may be judged from his full-length portrait here by Vandyck, though he
+is said to have been somewhat ungainly. In the "State drawing-room,"
+where the maiden queen held Court when she visited the earl's ancestor
+Sir Robert Jermyn in 1578, may be seen two fine inlaid cabinets of wood
+set with silver, bearing the monogram of Henrietta Maria. Jermyn
+survived his royal wife the dowager-queen over fourteen years. Evelyn
+saw him a few months before he died. "Met My Lord St. Albans," he says,
+"now grown so blind that he could not see to take his meat. He has lived
+a most easy life, in plenty even abroad, whilst His Majesty was a
+sufferer; he has lost immense sums at play, which yet, at about eighty
+years old, he continues, having one that sits by him to name the spots
+on the cards. He eat and drank with extraordinary appetite. He is a
+prudent old courtier, and much enriched since His Majesty's return."<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p>
+
+<p>Charles I.'s leather-covered travelling trunk is also preserved at
+Rushbrooke as well as his night-cap and night-shirt, and the silk
+brocade costume of his great-grandson, Prince Charles Edward. An emblem
+of loyalty to the Stuarts also may be seen in the great hall, a
+bas-relief in plaster representing Charles II. concealed in the Boscobel
+oak. Many of the bedrooms remain such as they were two hundred years
+ago, with thei<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>r fine old tapestries, faded window curtains, and tall
+canopied beds. One is known as "Heaven" and another as "Hell," from the
+rich paintings upon the walls and ceilings. The royal bedchamber,
+Elizabeth's room, contains the old bed in which she slept, with its
+velvet curtains and elaborately worked counter-pane. The house is rich
+in portraits, and the walls of the staircase are lined from floor to
+ceiling with well-known characters of the seventeenth century, from
+James I. to Charles II.'s confidant, Edward Progers, who died in 1714,
+at the age of ninety-six, of the anguish of cutting four new teeth.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>
+Here also is Agnes de Rushbrooke, who haunts the Hall. There is a grim
+story told of her body being cast into the moat; moreover, there is a
+certain bloodstain pointed out to verify the tale.</p>
+
+<p>Then there is the old ballroom, and the Roman Catholic chapel, now a
+billiard-room, and the library, rich in ancient manuscripts and
+elaborate carvings by Grinling Gibbons. The old gardens also are quite
+in character with the house, with its avenues of hornbeams known as
+Lovers' Walk, and the site of the old labyrinth or maze.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Rushbrooke with its Stuart memories, our way lies to the
+south-east; but to the south-west there are also many places <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>of
+interest, such as Hardwick, Hawstead, Plumpton, etc. At the last-named
+place, in an old house with high Mansard roofs resembling a French
+chateau, lived an eccentric character of whom many anecdotes are told,
+old Alderman Harmer, one of which is that in damp weather he used to sit
+in a kind of pulpit in one of the topmost rooms, with wooden boots on!</p>
+
+<p>For the remains of Hawstead Place, once visited in State by Queen
+Elizabeth, who dropped her fan in the moat to test the gallantry of her
+host, we searched in vain. A very old woman in mob-cap in pointing out
+the farm so named observed, "T'were nowt of much account nowadays, tho'
+wonderful things went on there years gone by." This was somewhat vague.
+We went up to the house and asked if an old gateway of which we had
+heard still existed. The servant girl looked aghast. Had we asked the
+road to Birmingham she could scarcely have been more dumbfounded. "No,
+there was no old gateway there," she said. We asked another villager,
+but he shook his head. "There was a lady in the church who died from a
+box on the ear!" This was scarcely to the point, and since we have
+discovered that the ancient Jacobean gateway is at Hawstead Place after
+all, we cannot place the Suffolk rustic intelligence above the average.
+It is in the kitchen garden, and in the alcoves of the pillars are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>
+moulded bricks with initials and hearts commemorating the union of Sir
+Thomas Cullum with the daughter of Sir Henry North. The moat is still to
+be seen, but the bridge spanning it has given way. The principal ruins
+of the old mansion were removed about a century ago.</p>
+
+<p>Gedding Hall, midway between Bury and Needham Market, is moated and
+picturesque, and before it was restored must have been a perfect
+picture, for as it is now it just misses being what it might have been
+under very careful treatment. A glaring red-brick tower has been added,
+which looks painfully new and out of keeping; and beneath two quaint old
+gables, a front door has been placed which would look very well in
+Fitz-John's Avenue or Bedford Park, but certainly not here. When old
+houses are nowadays so carefully restored so that occasionally it is
+really difficult to see where the old work ends and the new begins, one
+regrets that the care that is being bestowed upon West Stow could not
+have been lavished here.</p>
+
+<p>We come across another instance of bad restoration at Bildeston. There
+is a good old timber house at the top of the village street which,
+carefully treated, would have been a delight to the eye; but the carved
+oak corner-post has been enveloped in hideous yellow brickwork in such a
+fashion that one would rather have wished the place had been pulled
+down. But at the farther end of the village<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> there is another old timber
+house, Newbury Farm, with carved beams and very lofty porch, which
+affords a fine specimen of village architecture of the fifteenth
+century. Within, there is a fine black oak ceiling of massive moulded
+beams, a good example of the lavish way in which oak was used in these
+old buildings.</p>
+
+<p>Hadleigh is rich in seventeenth-century houses with ornamental plaster
+fronts and carved oak beams and corbels. One with wide projecting eaves
+and many windows bears the date 1676, formed out of the lead setting of
+the little panes of glass. Some bear fantastical designs upon the
+pargeting, half obliterated by continual coats of white or yellow wash,
+with varying dates from James I. to Dutch William.</p>
+
+<p>A lofty battlemented tower in the churchyard, belonging to the rectory,
+was built towards the end of the fifteenth century by Archdeacon
+Pykenham. Some mural paintings in one of its rooms depict the adjacent
+hills and river and the interior of the church, and a turret-chamber has
+a kind of hiding-place or strong-room, with a stout door for defence.
+Not far from this rectory gatehouse is a half-timber building almost
+contemporary, with narrow Gothic doors, made up-to-date with an art<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>istic
+shade of green. The exterior of the church is fine, but the interior is
+disappointing in many ways. It was restored at that period of the
+Victorian era when art in the way of church improvement had reached its
+lowest ebb. But the church had suffered previously, for a puritanical
+person named Dowsing smashed the majority of the painted windows as
+"superstitious pictures." Fortunately some fine linen panelling in the
+vestry has been preserved. The old Court Farm, about half a mile to the
+north of the town, has also suffered considerably; for but little
+remains beyond the entrance gate of Tudor date. By local report,
+Cromwell is here responsible; but the place was a monastery once, and
+Thomas Cromwell dismantled it. It would be interesting to know if the
+Lord Protector ever wrote to the editor of the <i>Weekly Post</i>, to refute
+any connection with his namesake of the previous century. Though the
+"White Lion" Inn has nothing architecturally attractive, there is an
+old-fashioned comfort about it. The courtyard is festooned round with
+clematis of over a century's growth, and in the summer you step out of
+your sleeping quarters into a delightful green arcade. The ostler, too,
+is a typical one of the good old coaching days, and doubtless has a
+healthy distaste for locomotion by the means of petrol.</p>
+
+<p>The corner of the county to the south-east of Hadleigh, and bounded by
+the rivers Stour and Orwell, could have no better r<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>ecommendation for
+picturesqueness than the works of the famous painter Constable. He was
+never happier than at work near his native village, Flatford, where
+to-day the old mill affords a delightful rural studio to some painters
+of repute. The old timber bridge and the willow-bordered Stour, winding
+in and out the valley, afford charming subjects for the brush; and
+Dedham on the Essex border is delightful. Gainsborough also was very
+partial to the scenery on the banks of the Orwell.</p>
+
+<p>In the churchyard of East Bergholt, near Flatford, is a curious,
+deep-roofed wooden structure, a cage containing the bells, which are
+hung upside down. Local report says that his Satanic Majesty had the
+same objection to the completion of the sacred edifices that he had for
+Cologne Cathedral, consequently the tower still remains conspicuous by
+its absence. The "Hare and Hounds" Inn has a finely moulded plaster
+ceiling. It is worthy of note that the Folkards, an old Suffolk family,
+have owned the inn for upwards of six generations.</p>
+
+<p>Little and Great Wenham both possess interesting manor-houses: the
+former particularly so, as it is one of the earliest specimens of
+domestic architecture in the kingdom, or at least the first house where
+Flemish bricks were used in construction. For this reason, no doubt,
+trippers from Ipswich <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>are desirous of leaving the measurements of their
+boots deep-cut into the leads of the roof with their initials duly
+recorded. Naturally the owner desires that some discrimination be now
+shown as to whom may be admitted. The building is compact, with but few
+rooms; but the hall on the first floor and the chapel are in a
+wonderfully good state of repair,&mdash;indeed the house would make a much
+more desirable residence than many twentieth-century dwellings of equal
+dimensions. Great Wenham manor-house is of Tudor date, with pretty
+little pinnacles at the corners of gable ends which peep over a high
+red-brick wall skirting the highroad.</p>
+
+<p>From here to Erwarton, which is miles from anywhere near the tongue of
+land dividing the two rivers, some charming pastoral scenery recalls
+peeps we have of it from the brush of Constable. At one particularly
+pretty spot near Harkstead some holiday folks had assembled to enjoy
+themselves, and looked sadly bored at a company of Salvationists who had
+come to destroy the peace of the scene.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_008" id="ILL_008"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_008.jpg" width="400" height="330" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">ERWARTON HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Erwarton Hall is a ghostly looking old place, with an odd-shaped<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>
+early-Jacobean gateway, with nine great pinnacles rising above its roof.
+It faces a wide and desolate stretch of road, with ancient trees and
+curious twisted roots, in front, and a pond: picturesque but melancholy
+looking. The house is Elizabethan, of dark red-brick, and the old
+mullioned windows peer over the boundary-wall as if they would like to
+see something of the world, even in this remote spot. In the mansion,
+which this succeeded, lived Anne Boleyn's aunt, Amata, Lady Calthorpe,
+and here the unfortunate queen is said to have spent some of the
+happiest days of girlhood,&mdash;a peaceful spot, indeed, compared with her
+subsequent surroundings. Local tradition long back has handed down the
+story that it was the queen's wish her heart should be buried at
+Erwarton; and it had well-nigh been forgotten, when some sixty-five
+years ago a little casket was discovered during some alterations to one
+of the walls of the church. It was heart-shaped, and contained but dust,
+and was eventually placed in a vault of the Cornwallis family. Sir W.
+Hastings D'Oyly, Bart., in writing an interesting article upon this
+subject a few years back,<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> pointed out that it has never been
+decided where Anne Boleyn's remains actually are interred, though they
+were buried, of course, in the first instance by her brother, Viscount
+Rochford, in the Tower. There are erroneous traditions, both at Salle in
+Norfolk and Horndon-on-the-Hill in Essex, that Anne Boleyn was buried
+there. There are some fine old monuments in the Erwarton church, a
+cross-legged cr<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>usader, and a noseless knight and lady, with elaborate
+canopy, members of the Davilliers family. During the Civil War five of
+the bells were removed from the tower and broken up for shot for the
+defence of the old Hall against the Parliamentarians. At least so goes
+the story. An octagonal Tudor font is in a good state of preservation,
+and a few old rusty helmets would look better hung up on the walls than
+placed upon the capital of a column.</p>
+
+<p>The story of Anne Boleyn's heart recalls that of Sir Nicholas Crispe,
+whose remains were recently reinterred when the old London church of St.
+Mildred's in Bread Street was pulled down. The heart of the cavalier,
+who gave large sums of money to Charles I. in his difficulties, is
+buried in Hammersmith Old Church, and by the instructions of his will
+the vessel which held it was to be opened every year and a glass of wine
+poured upon it.</p>
+
+<p>Some curious vicissitudes are said to have happened to the heart of the
+great Montrose. It came into the possession of Lady Napier, his nephew's
+wife, who had it embalmed and enclosed in a steel case of the size of an
+egg, which opened with a spring, made from the blade of his sword, and
+the relic was given by her to the then Marchioness of Montrose. Soon
+afterwards it was lost, but eventually traced to a collection of curios
+in Holland, and retu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>rned into the possession of the fifth Lord Napier,
+who gave it to his daughter. When she married she went to reside in
+Madeira, where the little casket was stolen by a native, under the
+belief that it was a magic charm, and sold to an Indian chief, from whom
+it was at length recovered; but the possessor in returning to Europe in
+1792, having to spend some time in France during that revolutionary
+period, thought it advisable to leave the little treasure in possession
+of a lady friend at Boulogne; but as luck would have it, this lady died
+unexpectedly, and no clue was forthcoming as to where she had hidden the
+relic.</p>
+
+<p>But a still more curious story is told of the heart of Louis XIV. An
+ancestor of Sir William Harcourt, at the time of the French Revolution
+had given to him by a canon of St. Denis the great monarch's heart,
+which he had annexed from a casket at the time the royal tombs were
+demolished by the mob. It resembled a small piece of shrivelled leather,
+an inch or so long. Many years afterwards the late Dr. Buckland, Dean of
+Westminster, during a visit to the Harcourts was shown the curiosity. We
+will quote the rest in Mr Labouchere's words, for he it was who related
+the story in <i>Truth</i>. "He (Dr. Buckland) was then very old. He had some
+reputation as a man of science, and the scientific spirit moved him to
+wet his finger, rub it on the heart, and put the finger to his mouth.
+After that, before he could be stopped, he put the heart in his mouth
+and swallowed it, whether by accident or design will never be known.
+Very shortly afterwards he died and was buried in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> Westminster Abbey. It
+is impossible that he could ever have digested the thing. It must have
+been a pretty tough organ to start with, and age had almost petrified
+it. Consequently the heart of Louis XIV. must now be reposing in
+Westminster Abbey enclosed in the body of an English dean."</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="NOOKS_IN_NORFOLK" id="NOOKS_IN_NORFOLK">NOOKS IN NORFOLK</a></h2>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p>
+<p>Wells-next-the-Sea, on the north coast of Norfolk, sounds attractive,
+and looks attractive on the map; but that is about all that can be said
+in its favour, for a more depressing place would be difficult to find.
+Even Holkham, with all its art treasures, leaves a pervading impression
+of chill and gloom. The architects of the middle of the eighteenth
+century had no partiality for nooks and corners in the mansions they
+designed. Vastness and discomfort seems to have been their principal
+aim. Well might the noble earl for whom it was built have observed, "It
+is a melancholy thing to stand alone in one's own country." The advent
+of the motor car must indeed be welcome, to bring the place in touch
+with life.</p>
+
+<p>We were attracted to the village of Stiffkey, to the east of Wells,
+mainly by a magazine article fresh in our memory, of some of its
+peculiarities, conspicuous among which was its weird red-headed
+inhabitants. The race of people, however, must have died out, for what
+few villagers we encountered were very ordinary ones: far from
+ill-favoured. Possibly they still invoke the aid of the local "wise
+woman," as they do in many other parts of Norfolk, so therein they are
+no further behind the times than their neighbours.</p>
+
+<p>We heard of an instance farther south, for example, where the head of an
+establishment, as was his wont, having disposed of his crop of potatoes,
+disappeared for a week with the proceeds; and return<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>ing at length in a
+very merry condition, his good wife, in the hopes of frightening him,
+unknown to him removed his watch from his pocket. Next morning in sober
+earnest he went with his sole remaining sixpence to consult the wise
+woman of the village, who promptly told him the thief was in his own
+house. Consequently the watch was produced, and the lady who had
+purloined it, instead of teaching a lesson, was soundly belaboured with
+a broom-handle!</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_009" id="ILL_009"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_009.jpg" width="400" height="297" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">EAST BARSHAM MANOR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Stiffkey Hall is a curious Elizabethan gabled building with a massive
+flint tower, built, it is said, by Sir Nathaniel Bacon, the brother of
+the philosopher, but it never was completed. Far more picturesque and
+interesting are the remains of East Barsham manor-house, some seven
+miles to the south of Wells. Although it contained some of the finest
+ornamental Tudor brickwork in England when we were there, and possibly
+still, the old place could have been had for a song. It had the
+reputation of being haunted, and was held in awe. The gatehouse, bearing
+the arms and ensigns of Henry VIII., reminds one of a bit of Hampton
+Court, and the chimneys upon the buildings on the northern side of the
+Court are as fine as those <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>at Compton Wyniates. The wonder is that in
+these days of appreciation of beautiful architecture nobody has restored
+it back into a habitable mansion. That such ruins as this or Kirby Hall
+or Burford Priory should remain to drop to pieces, seems a positive sin.
+A couple of miles to the west of Barsham is Great Snoring, whose
+turreted parsonage is also rich in early-Tudor moulded brickwork, as is
+also the case at Thorpland Hall to the south.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_010" id="ILL_010"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_010.jpg" width="400" height="398" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">WALSINGHAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One grieves to think that the old Hall of the Townshends on the other
+side of Fakenham has been shorn of its ancestral portraits. What a
+splendid collection, indeed, was this, and how far more dignified did
+the full-length Elizabethan warriors by Janssen look here than upon the
+walls at Christie's a year or so ago. The famous haunted chambers have a
+far less awe-inspiring appearance than some other of the bedrooms with
+their hearse-like beds and nodding plumes. We do not know when the
+"Brown Lady" last made her appearance, but there are rumours that she
+was visible before the decease of the late Marquis Townshend. Until then
+the stately lady in her rich brown brocade had absented herself for half
+a century. She had last introduced herself unbecoming a modest ghost, to
+two gentlemen visitors of a house party who were sitting up late at
+night. One of these gentlemen, a Colonel Loftus, afterwards made a
+sketch of her from memory which possibly is still in existence.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_011" id="ILL_011"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_011.jpg" width="400" height="296" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">WALSINGHAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Walsingham, midway between Fakenham and Wells, is a quaint old town; its
+timber houses and its combined Gothic well, lock-up, and cross in the
+market-place giving it quite a mediæval aspect. Before the image of Our
+Lady of Walsingham was consigned to the flames by Wolsey's confidential
+servant Cromwell, the pilgrimages to the Priory were in every respect as
+great as those to Canterbury, and the "way" through Brandon and
+Newmarket may be traced like that in Kent. Notwithstanding the fact that
+Henry VIII. himself had been a barefoot pilgrim, and had bestowed a
+costly necklace on the image, his gift as well as a host of other riches
+from the shrine came in very handy at the Dissolution. A relic of Our
+Lady's milk enclosed in crystal, says Erasmus, was occasionally like
+chalk mixed with the white of eggs. It had been brought from
+Constantinople in the tenth century; but this and a huge bone of St
+Peter's finger, of course, did not survive. The site of the chapel,
+containing the altar where the pilgrims knelt, stood somewhere to the
+north-west of the ruins of the Priory. These are approached from the
+street through a fine old early fifteenth-century gateway. The
+picturesque remains of the refectory date from the previous century, the
+western window being a good example of the purest Gothic. The old
+pilgrims' entrance was in "Knight Street," which derives its name from
+the miracle of a horseman who had sought sanctuary passing through the
+extraordinarily narrow limits of the wicket. Henry III. is said to have
+set the fashion for walking to Walsingham, and we strongly recommend<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>
+the tourists of to-day, who may find themselves stranded at
+Wells-next-the-Sea, to do likewise.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_012" id="ILL_012"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_012.jpg" width="400" height="383" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">FONT CANOPY, TRUNCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The little seaside resort Mundesley is an improvement on Wells; but dull
+as it is now, what must it have been in Cowper's time: surely a place
+ill-calculated to improve the poor poet's melancholia! There is little
+of interest beyond the ruined church on the cliffs and the Rookery Farm
+incorporated in the remains of the old monastery. A priest's hole is, or
+was not long since, to be seen in one of the gabled roofs. The churches
+of Trunch and Knapton to the south-west both are worth a visit for their
+fine timber roofs. The font at Trunch is enclosed by a remarkable canopy
+of oak supported by graceful wooden pillars from the floor. It is
+probably of early-Elizabethan date, and is certainly one of the most
+remarkable baptistries in the country. Here and in other parts of
+Norfolk when there are several babies to be christened the ceremony is
+usually performed on the girls last, as otherwise when they grew up they
+would develop beards!</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p>
+<p>Ten miles to the south-west as the crow flies is historic Blickling, one
+of the reputed birthplaces of the ill-fated Anne Boleyn. By some
+accounts Luton Hoo in Bedfordshire claims her nativity as well as
+Rochford Hall in Essex and Hever Castle in Kent; but, though Hever is
+the only building that will go back to that date, she probably was born
+in the older Hall of Blickling, the present mansion dating only from the
+reign of James I.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the occasion of our visit the house was closed, so we can only
+speak of the exterior, and of the very extensive gardens, where in vain
+we sought the steward, who was said to be somewhere on the premises.</p>
+
+<p>The rampant bulls, bearing shields, perched on the solid piers that
+guard the drawbridge across the moat, duly impress one with the
+ancestral importance of the Hobarts, whose arms and quarterings,
+surmounted by the helmet and ancient crest, adorn the principal
+entrance. Like Hatfield and Bramshill, the mellowed red-brick gives it a
+charm of colour which only the lapse of centuries will give; and though
+not so old as Knole or Hatfield, the main entrance is quite as
+picturesque. The gardens, however, immediatel<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>y surrounding the Hall look
+somewhat flat in comparison.</p>
+
+<p>Although Henry VIII. did the principal part of his courting at Hever, it
+was at Blickling that he claimed his bride, and by some accounts was
+married to her there and not at Calais. The old earl, the unfortunate
+queen's father, survived her only two years; and after his death the
+estate was purchased by Sir Henry Hobart,<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> who built the present
+noble house. Among the relics preserved at Blickling of the unhappy
+queen are her morning-gown and a set of night-caps, and her toilet case
+containing mirrors, combs, etc. Sir John the third baronet entertained
+Charles II. and his queen here in 1671, upon which occasion the host's
+son and heir, then aged thirteen, was knighted. The royal visit is duly
+recorded in the parish register as follows: "King Charles the Second,
+with Queene Katherine, and James, Duke of Yorke, accompanied with the
+Dukes of Monmouth, Richmond, and Buckingham, and with divers Lords,
+arrived and dined at Sir John Hubart's, at Blicklinge Hall, the King,
+Queene, Duke of Yorke, and Duchesse of Richmond, of Buckingham etc., in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>
+the great dining-roomes, the others in the great parloure beneath it,
+upon Michmasday 1671. From whence they went, the Queene to Norwich, the
+King to Oxneads and lodged there, and came through Blicklinge the next
+day about one of the clock, going to Rainham to the Lord Townsends."<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p>
+
+<p>Queen Catherine slept that night and the following in the Duke's Palace
+at Norwich, but joined her royal spouse at lunch at Oxnead, which fine
+Elizabethan house has, alas! been pulled down, and the statues and
+fountain from there are now at Blickling. "Next morne (being Saterday),"
+writes a local scribe in 1671, "her Ma<sup>ty</sup> parted so early from Norwich
+as to meet y<sup>e</sup> King againe at Oxnead ere noone; S<sup>r</sup> Rob<sup>t</sup> Paston haveing
+got a vast dinner so early ready, in regard that his Ma<sup>ty</sup> was to goe
+that same afternoone (as he did) twenty myles to supper to the L<sup>d</sup>
+Townshend's, wher he stayd all yesterday, and as I suppose, is this
+evening already return'd to Newmarket, extremely well satisfied with our
+Lord Lieut<sup>s</sup> reception.... Her Ma<sup>ty</sup> haveinge but seven myles back to
+Norwich that night from S<sup>r</sup> Rob<sup>t</sup> Pastons was pleased for about two
+houres after dinner to divert herselfe at cards with the Court ladies
+and my Lady Paston, who had treated her so well and yet returned early
+to Norwich that eveninge to the same qu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>arters as formerly; and on Sunday
+morne (after her devotions perform'd and a plentifull breakfast) shee
+tooke coach, extreamely satisfied with the dutifull observances of all
+this countie and city, and was conducted by the L<sup>d</sup> Howard and his
+sonnes as far as Attleburough where fresh coaches atended to carry her
+back to the R<sup>t</sup> Ho<sup>ble</sup> the L<sup>d</sup> Arlington's at Euston."<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p>
+
+<p>Sidelights of this royal progress are obtained from the diarist Evelyn
+and Lord Dartmouth. Among the attractions provided for the king's
+amusement at Euston was the future Duchess of Portsmouth. The Duchess of
+Richmond (La belle Stuart), in the queen's train, must have been
+reminded how difficult had been her position before she eloped with her
+husband four years previously. For the duke's sake let us hope he was as
+overcome as his Majesty when the latter let his tongue wag with more
+than usual freedom during the feast at Raynham. "After her marriage,"
+says Dartmouth, speaking of the duchess, "she had more complaisance than
+before, as King Charles could not forbear telling the Duke of Richmond,
+when he was drunk at Lord Townshend's in Norfolk." Evelyn did not think
+much of the queen's lodgings at Norwich, which he describes as "an old
+wretched building," partly rebuilt in brick, standing in the
+market-place, which in his opinion would have been better had it been
+demolished and erected s<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>omewhere else.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from Blickling to the north-east is Mannington Hall, a mansion
+built in the reign of Henry VI., which possesses one of the best
+authenticated ghost stories of modern times. The story is the more
+interesting as it is recorded by that learned and delightful chronicler
+Dr. Jessop, chaplain to His Majesty the King. The strange experiences of
+his visit in October 1879 are duly recorded in the <i>Athenæeum</i> of the
+following January. The rest of the household had retired to rest, and
+Dr. Jessop was sitting up making extracts from some rare books in an
+apartment adjoining the library. Absorbed in his study, time had slipped
+away and it was after one o'clock. "I was just beginning to think that
+my work was drawing to a close," says the doctor, "when, as I was
+actually writing, I saw a large white hand within a foot of my elbow.
+Turning my head, there sat a figure of a somewhat large man, with his
+back to the fire, bending slightly over the table, and apparently
+examining the pile of books that I had been at work upon. The man's face
+was turned away from me, but I saw his closely-cut, reddish brown hair,
+his ear and shaved cheek, the eyebrow, the corner of his right eye, the
+side of the forehead, and the large high chee<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>kbone. He was dressed in
+what I can only describe as a kind of ecclesiastical habit of thick
+corded silk, or some such material, close up to the throat, and a narrow
+rim or edging of about an inch broad of satin or velvet serving as a
+stand-up collar and fitting close to the chin. The right hand, which had
+first attracted my attention, was clasping, without any great pressure,
+the left hand; both hands were in perfect repose, and the large blue
+veins of the right hand were conspicuous. I remember thinking that the
+hand was like the hand of Velasquez's magnificent 'Dead Knight' in the
+National Gallery. I looked at my visitor for some seconds, and was
+perfectly sure that he was a reality. A thousand thoughts came crowding
+upon me, but not the least feeling of alarm or even of uneasiness.
+Curiosity and a strong interest were uppermost. For an instant I felt
+eager to make a sketch of my friend, and I looked at a tray on my right
+for a pencil: then thought, 'Upstairs I have a sketch-book; shall I
+fetch it?' There he sat and I was fascinated, afraid not of his staying,
+but lest he should go. Stopping in my writing, I lifted my left hand
+from the paper, stretched it out to a pile of books and moved the top
+one. I cannot explain why I did this. My arm passed in front of the
+figure, and it vanished. Much astonished, I went on with my writing
+perhaps for another five minutes, and had actually got to the last few
+words of the extract when the figure appeared again, exactly in the same
+place and attitude as before. I saw the hand close to my own; I turned
+my head again to e<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>xamine him more closely, and I was framing a sentence
+to address to him when I discovered that I did not dare to speak. I was
+afraid of the sound of my own voice! There he sat, and there sat I. I
+turned my head again to my work, and finished the two or three words
+still remaining to be written. The paper and my notes are at this moment
+before me, and exhibit not the slightest tremor or nervousness. I could
+point out the words I was writing when the phantom came, and when he
+disappeared. Having finished my task I shut the book and threw it on the
+table: it made a slight noise as it fell&mdash;the figure vanished." Not
+until now did the doctor feel nervous, but it was only for a second. He
+replaced the books in the adjoining room, blew out the candles on the
+table, and retired to his rooms marvelling at his calmness under such
+strange circumstances.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_013" id="ILL_013"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_013.jpg" width="400" height="341" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">WYMONDHAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The old-fashioned town Wymondham, to the south-west of Norwich, contains
+an interesting church and market-cross, and one or two fine Gothic
+houses, all in good preservation. But stay, the quaint octagonal
+Jacobean timber structure in the market-place was holding forth a
+petition for contributions, as it was feeling somewhat decrepit. This
+was six or seven years ago, so probably by now it has entered upon a new
+lease of life. How much more picturesque are these old timbered
+structures than the jubilee clock-towers which have sprung up in many
+old-fashioned towns, putting everything out of harmony. But few towns
+are proud of their old buildings. They must be up to date with flaring
+red-brick, and electric tramways, and down comes everything with any
+claim to antiquity, without a thought of its past associations or
+picturesque value. But let us hope that Wymondham may be exempt from
+these terrible tramways for many years to come, as its population is, or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>
+was, decreasing.</p>
+
+<p>The abbey and the church appear to have got rather mixed up; but having
+come to a satisfactory arrangement, present a most pleasing group, and,
+in the twilight, with two lofty towers and a ruined archway, it looks
+far more like a castle on the Rhine than a church in Norfolk. The effect
+doubtless would be heightened if we could see the rebel Kett dangling in
+chains from the tower as he did in the reign of Bloody Mary. The timber
+roof is exceptionally fine, with its long array of carved oak bosses and
+projecting angels.</p>
+
+<p>Near Wymondham is the moated Hall of Stanfield, picturesque with its
+numerous pinnacles. Here the heroine of the delightful romance
+<i>Kenilworth</i> was born in 1532; but poor Amy's marriage, far from being
+secret, was celebrated with great pomp at Sheen in Surrey in 1550, and
+is recorded in the <i>Diary of Edward VI.</i> now in the British Museum.
+"Lydcote," the old house in North Devon where she lived for some
+years, was pulled down not many years ago. Her bedstead from there we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>
+believe is still preserved at Great Torrington Rectory.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_014" id="ILL_014"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_014.jpg" width="400" height="295" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">HAUTBOYS HALL.<br />(<i>Photo by W. B. Redfern, Esq.</i>)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Somewhat similar to Stanfield, though now only a farmhouse, is the very
+pretty old Tudor house Hautboys Hall. It stands a few miles to the
+south-east of Oxnead.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the moated mansions in Norfolk, Oxburgh Hall, near Stoke Ferry,
+is the most interesting, and is a splendid example of the fortified
+manor-house of the end of the fifteenth century, and it is one of the
+few houses in England that have always been occupied by one family. Sir
+Edmund Bedingfield built it in the reign of Richard III., and Sir
+Richard Bedingfield resides there at the present time. The octagonal
+towers which flank the entrance gate rise from the broad moat to a
+considerable height. There is a quaint projecting turret on the eastern
+side which adds considerably to the picturesque outline of stepped
+gables and quai<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>nt battlements. High above the ponderous oak gates the
+machicolation behind the arch that joins the towers shows ample
+provision for a liberal supply of molten lead, and in an old guard-room
+may be seen the ancient armour and weapons to which the retainers of the
+Hall were wont to have recourse in case of siege. The room recalls
+somehow the defence of the tower of Tillietudlem in <i>Old Mortality</i>, and
+one can picture the little household guard running the old culverins
+and sakers into position on the battlements.</p>
+
+<p>The great mullioned window beneath the Tudor arch and over the entrance
+gate belongs to the "King's room," a fine old tapestried chamber
+containing the bed, with green and gold hangings, where Henry VII.
+slept; and it is no difficult matter to repeople it in the imagination
+with the inhabitants of that time in their picturesque costumes. There
+is a richness in the colouring of the faded tapestry and hangings in
+contrast with the red-brick Tudor fireplace far more striking than if
+the restorer had been allowed a liberal hand. It is like a bit of
+Haddon, and such rooms are as rarely met with nowadays as unrestored
+churches. The remarkable hiding-place at Oxburgh we have described in
+detail elsewhere.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> It is situated in the little projecting turret of
+the eastern tower, and is so cleverly constr<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>ucted beneath the solid
+brick floor, that no one would believe until they saw the solid masonry
+move upwards that there was sufficient space beneath to conceal a man.
+The Bedingfields are an old Roman Catholic family, and it is usually in
+the mansions of those of that faith that these ingenious contrivances
+are to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>A priest's hole was discovered quite recently in Snowre Hall, a curious
+Tudor house some ten miles to the west of Oxburgh. It is entered through
+a shaft from the roof, and measures five feet by six feet and four feet
+high, and beneath it is an inner and smaller hiding-place. Mr. Pratt (in
+whose family the house has been for two centuries) when he made the
+discovery had to remove four barrow-loads of jackdaws' nests. The
+discovery of this secret room is an interesting sequel to the fact that
+on April 29, 1646, Charles I. slept at Snowre Hall. It will be
+remembered that before he delivered himself up to the Scots army, he
+spent some days wandering about the eastern counties in disguise, like
+his son did in the western counties five years later. The owner of the
+house in those days was a Mr. Ralph Skipwith, who, to put the spies that
+were lurking about the vicinity off the track, provided th<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>e king with
+his own grey riding-jacket in place of the clergyman's black coat he was
+wearing, for that disguise had been widely advertised by his enemies.
+Dr. Hudson, who was acting as scout, joined Charles and his companion,
+Mr. Ashburnham, at Downham Market, where the "King's Walk" by the town
+side, where they met, may still be seen. It is recorded by Dr. Stukeley
+that Charles scratched some motto or secret instructions to his friends
+on a pane of glass in the Swan Inn, where he put up awaiting Hudson's
+return from Southwell. The fugitives proceeded thence to the Cherry Inn
+at Mundford, some fourteen miles from Downham, and back to Crimplesham,
+where they halted at an inn to effect the disguise above referred to.
+The regicide Miles Corbet, who was on the track with Valentine Walton,
+gave information as follows:</p>
+
+<p>"Since our coming to Lyn we have done what service we were able. We have
+taken some examinations, and it doth appeare to us that Mr. Hudson, the
+parson that came from Oxford with the king, was at Downham in Norfolk
+with two other gentlemen upon Thursday the last of April. We cannot yet
+learn where they were Friday night; but Saturday morning, the 2 of May
+they came to a blind alehouse at Crimplesham, about 8 miles from Lyn.
+From thence Mr. Hudson did ride on Saturday to Downham again, and there
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>two soldiers met with him, and had private speech with him. Hudson was
+then in a scarlet coat. Ther he met with Mr. Ralf Skipwith of his former
+acquaintance, and with him he did exchange his horse; and Skipwith and
+the said Hudson did ride to Southrie ferrie a privat way to go towards
+Ely; and went by the way to Crimplesham, and ther were the other
+two&mdash;one in a parsons habit, which by all description was the king.
+Hudson procured the said Skipwith to get a gray coat for the Dr. (as he
+called the king), which he did. And ther the king put off his black coat
+and long cassock, and put on Mr. Skipwith his gray coat. The king bought
+a new hat at Downham, and on Saturday went into the Isle of Ely.
+Wherever they came they were very private and always writing. Hudson
+tore some papers when they came out of the house. Hudson did enquire for
+a ship to go to the north or Newcastel, but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> could get none. We hear at
+the same time there were 6 soldiers and officers as is thought at
+Oxborough at another blind alehouse."<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p>
+
+<p>It is worthy of remark that Miles Corbet, whom Pepys saw on the morning
+of April 19, 1662, looking "very cheerful" upon his way to Tyburn, was a
+native of Norfolk, and his monument may be seen in Sprowston Church near
+Norwich.</p>
+
+<p>The "Swan" at Downham still exists, but it was modernised some fifteen
+years ago. It would be interesting to know what became of the historical
+pane of glass.</p>
+<hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="NOOKS_IN_WARWICKSHIRE" id="NOOKS_IN_WARWICKSHIRE">NOOKS IN WARWICKSHIRE AND</a></h2>
+
+<h2>BORDERLAND</h2>
+
+<p>The outline of Warwickshire is something in the form of a turnip, and
+the stem of it, which, like an isthmus, projects into Gloucestershire
+and Oxfordshire, contains many old-world places.</p>
+
+<p>Long Compton, the most southern village of all, is grey and straggling
+and picturesque, with orchards on all sides, and a fine old church, amid
+a group of thatched cottages, whose interior was restored or mangled at
+a period when these things were not done with much antiquarian taste. We
+have pleasant recollections of a sojourn at the "Old Red Lion," where
+mine host in 1880, a typical Warwickshire farmer, was the most
+hospitable and cheery to <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>be found in this or any other county: an
+innkeeper of the old school that it did one's heart good to see.</p>
+
+<p>But this welcome house of call is by no means the only Lion of the
+neighbourhood, for on the ridge of the high land which forms the
+boundary of Oxfordshire are the "Whispering Knights," the "King's
+Stone," and a weird Druidical circle. These are the famous Rollright
+Stones, about which there is a story that a Danish prince came over to
+invade England, and when at Dover he consulted the oracle as to the
+chances of success. He was told that</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">"When Long Compton you shall see,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">You shall King of England be."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Naturally he and his soldiers made a bee-line for Long Compton, and,
+arriving at the spot where the circle is now marked by huge boulders, he
+was so elated that he stepped in advance of his followers, who stood
+round him, saying, "It is not meet that I should remain among my
+subjects, I will go before." But for his conceit some unkind spirit
+turned the whole party into stone, which doesn't seem <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>quite fair.
+"King's Stone" stands conspicuous from the rest on the other side of the
+road, and, being very erect, looks as if the prince still prided himself
+upon his folly. The diameter of the circle is over a hundred feet. In an
+adjoining field is a cluster of five great stones. These are the
+"Whispering Knights"; and the secret among themselves is that they will
+not consent to budge an inch, and woe to the farmer who attempts to
+remove them. The story goes that one of the five was once carted off to
+make a bridge; but the offender had such a warm time of it that he
+speedily repented his folly and reinstated it.</p>
+
+<p>There is a delightful walk across the fields from Long Compton to Little
+Compton, with a glorious prospect of the Gloucestershire and
+Warwickshire hills. This village used to be in the former county, but
+now belongs to Warwickshire. Close to the quaint saddle-back towered
+church stands the gabled Elizabethan manor-house, with the Juxon arms
+carved over the entrance. Its exterior has been but little altered since
+the prelate lived here in retirement after the execution of Charles I. A
+gruesome relic was kept in one of the rooms, the block upon which the
+poor monarch's head was severed. This and King Charles' chair and some
+of the archbishop's treasured books disappeared from the manor-house
+after the death of his descendant Lady Fane. Internally the house has
+been much altered, but there are many nooks and corners to ca<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>rry the
+memory back to the hunting bishop, for his pack of hounds was one of the
+best managed in the country. Upon one occasion a complaint was made to
+the Lord Protector that Juxon's hounds had followed the scent through
+Chipping Norton churchyard at the time of a puritanical assembly there.
+But Oliver would hear none of it, and only replied, "Let the bishop
+enjoy his hunting unmolested."</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_015" id="ILL_015"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_015.jpg" width="400" height="286" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">CHASTLETON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When Little Compton church had an Independent minister to hold forth to
+the congregation, the prelate held divine service every Sunday at
+Chastleton, the grand old home of the loyalist family of Jones. This
+stately Jacobean mansion is close to Little Compton, but is really in
+Oxfordshire. It has an old-world charm about it entirely its own; and
+few ancestral homes can take us back to the days of Cavalier and
+Roundhead with such realism, for the old furniture and pictures and
+relics have never been disturbed since the house was built by Walter
+Jones between the years 1603 and 1630. He purchased the estate from
+Robert Catesby, the projector of the Gunpowder Plot, who sold the manor
+to provide funds for carry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>ing on that notorious conspiracy.</p>
+
+<p>The great hall is a noble apartment, with raised dais and carved screen;
+and the Royalist Joneses looking down upon you on all sides, conspicuous
+among whom is Thomas Jones and valiant Captain Arthur Jones, whose sword
+beside him shows the good service he did at Worcester fight. When the
+day was lost, and Charles was journeying towards Boscobel, the captain
+managed to ride his tired horse back to Chastleton. But a party of
+Cromwellian soldiers were at his heels, and his wife had only just time
+to hurry him into an ingeniously contrived hiding-place when the enemy
+confronted her, and refused to budge from the very bedroom behind whose
+panelled walls the fugitive was secreted. But Mrs. Arthur Jones had her
+share of tact, and in preparing her unwelcome guests some refreshment,
+she added a narcotic to the wine, which in time had effect. Her husband
+was then released, and with a fresh horse he was soon beyond danger. The
+little oak wainscoted chamber and the adjoining bedroom may still be
+seen where this exciting episode took place. The drawing-room is very
+rich in oak carvings, and the lofty marble chimney-piece bears in the
+centre the Jones' arms. The ceiling with its massive pendants is a fine
+example of the period.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> The bedrooms are all hung with the original
+tapestry and arras that was made for them. One of them contains the
+State bed from old Woodstock Palace; and there are everywhere antique
+dressing-tables, mirrors, and quaint embroidered coverlets, and old
+chests and cabinets innumerable containing queer old dresses and coats
+of the Georgian period, and, what is more remarkable, the identical
+Jacobean ruffs and frills which are depicted in the old portraits in the
+hall. Then there are cupboards full of delightful old china, and
+decanters and wine glasses which were often produced to drink a health
+to the "King over the water." But of more direct historic interest is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>
+Charles I.'s Bible, which was given by the widow of the last baronet of
+the Juxon family&mdash;a grand-nephew of the archbishop&mdash;to the then
+proprietor of Chastleton, John Jones. It is bound in gold stamped
+leather, and bears the Royal arms with the initials C. R. It is dated
+1629, and is full of queer old maps and illustrations, and upon the
+fly-leaf is written&mdash;"Juxon, Compton, Gloucestershire."</p>
+
+<p>Some of the ancient cabinets at Chastleton are full of secret drawers,
+and in one of them some years ago a very curious miniature of the martyr
+king was discovered. It is painted on copper, and represents Charles I.
+with the Order of St. George, and a set of designs drawn on talc,
+illustrating the life of the ill-fated monarch from his coronation to
+his execution. They are thus described by one of the past owners of
+Chastleton<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>: "They consist of a face and bust in one miniature, in a case
+accompanied with a set of eight or nine pictures drawn on talc, being
+different scenes or dresses, which are to be laid on the miniature so
+that the face of the miniature appears through a hole left for that
+purpose: and thus the one miniature does duty in every one of the talc
+pictures. These were accidentally discovered some twenty years ago.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a>
+The miniature was well known, and was supposed to be complete in itself;
+but one day whilst being handled by one of the family, then quite a
+child, it fell to the ground, and being in that way forced open at the
+back, those talc pictures were brought to light. The careful manner in
+which they had been concealed, and the miniature thereby made to appear
+no more than an ordinary portrait, seems to warrant the suggestion that
+they were in the first instance the property of some affectionate
+adherent of Charles, whose prudence persuaded him to conceal what his
+loyalty no doubt taught him to value very highly. There is no direct
+evidence to show that they belonged to Bishop Juxon; nor is there any
+tradition that I ever heard connected with them. The two concluding
+pictures of the series represent the decapitated head in the hand of the
+executioner, and a hand placing the martyr's crown upon the brows."</p>
+
+<p>There are two huge oak staircases running up to the top of the house,
+where is the old gallery or ballroom, with a coved ceiling of ornamented
+plaster-work, and above the mullioned windows grotesque monster heads
+devised in the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>pargeting.</p>
+
+<p>The grounds and gardens are quite in character: not made to harmonise,
+as are so many gardens nowadays, but the original quaint cut box hedges
+and trim walks. The grand old house in the centre with its rusty roof of
+lichen, and hard by the little church nestling by its side with the
+picturesque entrance gateway and dovecot, form together a delightful
+group. Chastleton church contains some good brasses. The tower is oddly
+placed over the south porch.</p>
+
+<p>A couple of miles to the north, and the same distance beyond, are two
+other interesting manor-houses, Barton-on-the-Heath and Little Woolford.
+The former, a gabled Jacobean house, was once the seat of the
+unfortunate Sir Thomas Overbury, who was done to death in the Tower by
+the machinations of that evil couple, Carr, Earl of Somerset, and his
+countess. Overbury, it will be remembered, had written the Court
+favourite's love letters and poems, and knew too much of that guilty
+courtship.</p>
+
+<p>There are some good monuments to the Overburys in the church: a Norman
+one with saddle-back tower. Near here is the Four-Shire Stone, described
+by Leland as "a large bigge stone; a Three-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>Mile-Stone from Rollerich
+Stones, which is a very mark or line of Gloucestershire, Whichester
+(Worcestershire), Warwickshire, and Oxfordshire."</p>
+
+<p>Little Woolford manor-house, the old seat of the Ingrams, is now, or was
+some years ago, used as a school. It is very picturesque, and its gables
+of half-timber, facing the little courtyard, remind one of the
+quadrangle of Ightham Mote. Opposite the Tudor entrance-gate is the
+hall, with its open timber roof, minstrels' gallery, panelled walls, and
+tall windows, still containing their ancient painted glass. Barton,
+which properly should have its ghost, presumably is not so favoured; but
+here there are two at least,&mdash;a certain "White Lady," who, fortunately
+for the juvenile scholars, does not appear until midnight; and the last
+of the Ingrams, who has a restless way of tearing about on horseback in
+the adjacent fields. This gentleman could not die decently in his bed,
+but must needs, upon the point of dying, rush into the stable, mount his
+favourite steed, and plunge into the raging tempest to meet his
+adversary Death. What a pity there are not more educational
+establishments like this. They might possibly make the pupils less
+matter-of-fact and more imaginative. But we had almost forgotten a
+moral lesson that is to be learned from a rude projection in the masonry
+on the left-hand side of the entrance gateway. This is the oven, wh<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>ich
+opens at the back of a wide hearth; and here some seventeenth-century I&nbsp;O&nbsp;U's
+are said to have been found for money lost at play;
+while some Cavaliers were concealed there in the time of the Civil Wars.
+But the punishment for gambling was providentially arranged. Some
+Cromwellian soldiers dropping in at the manor-house, lighted a
+tremendous fire, and gave the unfortunate fugitives a roasting which
+they did not readily forget. This is roughly as the story goes; indeed
+it goes further, for by local report King Charles himself was one of the
+victims.</p>
+
+<p>Brailes, a few miles to the north-east, is famous for its church, the
+cathedral of southern Warwickshire; but it is principally interesting
+exteriorly, the old benches having been long since cleared away and many
+nineteenth-century "improvements" made. Still there are parts of the
+fourteenth-century roof and a fine font, some ancient monuments,
+particularly melodious old bells; and the lofty embattled
+fifteenth-century tower is exceptionally graceful.</p>
+
+<p>Buried in a hollow, and hidden from view by encircling trees and hills,
+is that wonderful old mansion Compton Wyniates. The name (derived from
+the ancient family of Compton and Wyniates, a corruption of vineyard,
+for at an early per<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>iod the vine was here cultivated) is suggestive of
+something quaint, and indeed a more curious old house could not be
+found. Its innumerable gables and twisted chimneys seem to be heaped up
+in the most delightful confusion, in abandoned opposition to any
+architectural regularity. The eye wanders from tower and turret until it
+becomes bewildered by so many twists and angles. Look at the square box
+of a house like Moor Park, for example, and wonder how it is that having
+arrived at such picturesque perfection, taste should so degenerate. But
+half the fascination of Compton Wyniates is its colour; its time-worn
+dark-red brick and the grey-green lichens of ancient roofs. Upon one
+side the curious gables and countless chimney clusters are reflected in
+the moat, part of which now does service as a sunken garden.</p>
+
+<p>Passing through the bullet-battered door of the main entrance, over
+which are the Royal arms of England supported by a griffin and a dog, we
+enter a quadrangular court and thence pass into the great hall, with its
+open timber roof black with the smoke of centuries. The screen beneath
+the music gallery is elaborately carved with leaf tracery, grotesque
+figures of mounted knights, and the escutcheon of the Compton arms.
+Above the gallery we notice the huge oak beams which form the
+half-timber portion of one of the principal gables, and cannot help
+comparing these trem<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>endous oak trunks with the modern laths plastered in
+front of houses: a futile attempt to imitate this popular style, without
+aiming at its <i>object</i>&mdash;strength.</p>
+
+<p>The screen of the chapel, like that of the hall, is ornamented with
+grotesque carvings, including a battle royal between some monks and his
+Satanic Majesty, who by the way has one of the ninety rooms all to
+himself, and reached by a special spiral staircase. Near the "Devil's
+chamber" is another small room whose ghostly occupant is evidently a
+member of the fresh-air league, for he will persist in having the window
+open, and no matter how often it is closed it is always found to be
+open. What a pity this sanitary ghost does not take up his abode where
+oxygen is scarcer. But these are by no means the only mysterious rooms
+at Compton Wyniates, for not a few have secret entrances and exits, and
+one dark corridor is provided with a movable floor, which when removed,
+drawbridge fashion, makes an excellent provision for safety so long as
+you are on the right side of the chasm. Such ingenious arrangements were
+as necessary in a private residence, miles from anywhere, as the
+bathroom is in a suburban villa. There are secret "barracks" in the
+roof, with storage for a regiment of soldiers, if necessary. The popish
+chapel, too, has ample provision for the security of its priest. There
+are four stair<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>cases leading up to it, and a regular rabbit-warren
+between the beams of the roof and the wainscoting, where if needs be he
+could run in case of danger.</p>
+
+<p>"Henry VIII.'s room," and "Charles I.'s room," are both pointed out.
+The latter slept a night here prior to the battle of Edgehill, and the
+bluff king honoured the builder of the mansion, Sir William Compton,
+with a visit in memory of old days, when his host as a boy had been his
+page. Dugdale tells us that Sir William got his building material from
+the ruinous castle of Fulbrooke, so his bricks were mellowed with time
+when the house was first erected. The knight's grandson became Baron
+Compton in Elizabeth's reign, and his son William, Earl of Northampton
+in 1618. A romantic episode in the life of this nobleman was his
+elopement with Elizabeth Spencer of Canonbury Tower, Islington. The lady
+was a very desirable match, being the only daughter of Sir John Spencer,
+the richest heiress of her time. Notwithstanding her strict seclusion at
+Canonbury, Lord William Compton, of whom she was enamoured, succeeded in
+the absence of her father in gaining admission to the house in the
+disguise of a baker, and carried her off in his basket. To perform so
+muscular a feat was proof enough of his devotion, so at the end of a
+year all was forgotten and forgiven. Their son, the valiant second earl,
+Spenc<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>er Compton, won his spurs and lost his life fighting for the king
+at Hopton Heath. His portrait by Janssen may be seen at Castle Ashby.</p>
+
+<p>His son James, the third earl, also fought for Charles, and attended his
+son at the Restoration; but his younger brother Henry, Bishop of London,
+aided the Revolution, and crowned Dutch William and his queen.</p>
+
+<p>Only within the last half-century has the mansion been occupied as a
+residence. For nearly a century before it was neglected and deserted.
+The rooms were bare of furniture, for, alas! its contents, including
+Henry VIII.'s State bed, had been removed or sold. That delightful
+writer William Howitt in 1840 said the house had not been inhabited for
+ninety years, with the exception of a portion of the east front, which
+was used by the bailiff. The rooms were empty and the walls were naked.
+His concluding wish fortunately long since has been realised&mdash;namely,
+that its noble owner would yet cause the restoration and refitting of
+Compton Wyniates to all its ancient state.</p>
+
+<p>Warwickshire is rich in ancestral houses and mediæval castles. Take, for
+example, the fortresses of Kenilworth, Warwick, Maxstoke, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> Tamworth,
+or the fine old houses Coombe Abbey, Charlecote, and Baddesley Clinton.
+The last named perhaps is least known of these, but by no means the
+least interesting. This old moated Hall of the Ferrers family is buried
+in the thickly wooded country on the high tableland which occupies the
+very heart of England. As to the actual centre, there are two places
+which claim this distinction; but oddly enough they are quite twelve
+miles apart. The one between Leamington and Warwick, the other to the
+west of Coventry. The latter spot is marked by the village cross of
+Meriden, and the former by an old oak tree by the main road. Baddesley
+Clinton is nearly equidistant from both, south of Meriden and north-west
+of Leamington and Warwick.</p>
+
+<p>Few houses so thoroughly retain their ancient appearance as Baddesley.
+It dates from the latter part of the fifteenth century, and is a
+singularly well-preserved specimen of a moated and fortified manor-house
+of that period. Like Compton Wyniates, its situation is very secluded in
+its densely wooded park, and formerly there was a double moat for extra
+defence; but for all its retiredness and security, the old house has a
+kindly greeting for those who are interested in such monuments of the
+past. A stone bridge across the moat leads to a projecting embattled
+tower with a wide depressed archway, showing provision for a portcullis
+with a large mullioned window over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> it. In general appearance the front
+resembles the moated house of Ightham, with which it is coeval, and the
+half-timbered gables of the courtyard are somewhat similar. Unlike
+Charlecote, the interior is as untouched as the exterior. Everywhere
+there are quaint old "linen" panelled rooms and richly carved
+chimney-pieces&mdash;windows of ancient heraldic glass, and old furniture,
+tapestry, and paintings. The hall is not like some, that never look cosy
+unless there is a blazing log fire in the hearth. There is something
+particularly inviting in this old room, with its deep-recessed mullioned
+window by the great freestone Jacobean fireplace. What pictures could
+not the imagination conjure up in this cosy corner in the twilight of an
+autumn day! On the first floor over the entrance archway is the
+"banqueting-room," with high coved ceiling and tapestry-lined walls.
+Beyond this is "Lord Charles' room," haunted, it is said, by a handsome
+youth with raven hair. Many years ago this spectre was seen by two of
+the late Mr. Marmion Ferrers' aunts when they were children, and they
+long remembered his face and steadfast gaze. A mysterious lady dressed
+in rich black brocade is occasionally encountered in the corridors in
+broad daylight, like the famous "Brown Lady" of Raynham Hall.</p>
+
+<p>The ancient chapel was set up by Sir Edward Ferrers when the litt<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>le
+parish church was taken from the family at the Reformation. In the
+thickness of the wall close at hand there is a secret passage which
+leads down to a little water-gate by the moat beneath which a narrow
+passage runs, so that there were two ready means of escape in troublous
+times; and in the roof on the east side of the house there is a priest's
+hole provided with a fixed bench. Marmion Ferrers above alluded to, who
+died in 1884, was the eighth in descent from father to son from Henry
+Ferrers of Elizabeth's time. Both were learned antiquarians. Marmion
+Ferrers was a typical squire of the old school, and we well remember
+with what pride he showed us round his ancestral home. But his pride
+ended there, as is shown by the following anecdote. One day he
+encountered an old woman in the park who had been gathering sticks
+without permission. She dropped her heavy bundle and was about to offer
+apologies for trespassing, when the good old squire, seeing that her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>
+load was too much for her strength, without a word slung the burden on
+his shoulder and carried it to the woman's humble dwelling.</p>
+
+<p>This calls to mind a story of a contemporary squire who lived some fifty
+miles away in the adjoining county, an antiquary who was also known for
+his acts of kindness and hospitality. In the vicinity of his ancient
+Hall a tramp had found a job, and the baronet was anxious to test his
+butler's honesty. He therefore offered to lend the man a hand and help
+him carry some bundles of faggots into an adjacent yard, if he would
+share profits. This was agreed upon, and when the work was done the
+tramp went off to the Hall to ask for his money, promising to join his
+assistant in a lane at the back of the house. Meanwhile the squire
+hurried to his study, and when the butler made his appearance handed him
+five shillings. Then donning his shabby coat and hat he hastened back.
+Presently the tramp came up with beaming countenance and held out half a
+crown, saying they were both well rewarded with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> one and threepence each.
+But the assistant grumbled, and said it was miserable pay, and at length
+persuaded the man to return and ask to see the squire and explain the
+amount of work that had been done. Again he returned to his sanctum, and
+hearing the bell ring told the butler to admit the man, and he would
+hear what he had to say. Having enjoyed the fun&mdash;the tramp's surprise
+and the butler's discomfort, he dismissed them both&mdash;one with half a
+guinea, the other from his service.</p>
+
+<p>Baddesley Clinton church, shut in by tall trees a bow-shot from the
+Hall, is famous for its eastern window of heraldic glass, which shows
+the various noble families with whom the Ferrers intermarried. By the
+union of Marmion Ferrers' father with the Lady Harriet Anne, daughter of
+the second Marquis Townshend, the Chartley and Tamworth lines of the
+family were united with that of Baddesley. The altar tomb of Sir Edward
+Ferrers, Knight, the founder of the family at Baddesley, his wife Dame
+Constance, and son who predeceased him, has above shields of the
+alliances with the Bromes, Hampdens, etc. He was the son of Sir Henry
+Ferrers, Knight, of Tamworth Castle, and grandson of William, Lord
+Ferrers of Groby. Marmion was the thirteenth in descent from this Sir
+Edward, not many links between the fifteenth and end of the nineteenth
+century. The day of the good old squire's burial on August 25, 1884,
+fell upon the three hundred and forty-ninth anniversary of the dea<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>th of
+the first Ferrers of Baddesley.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="SOME_NOOKS_IN_WORCESTERSHIRE" id="SOME_NOOKS_IN_WORCESTERSHIRE">SOME NOOKS IN WORCESTERSHIRE</a></h2>
+
+<h2>AND GLOUCESTERSHIRE</h2>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_016" id="ILL_016"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_016.jpg" width="400" height="296" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">THE WHITE HOUSE, PIXHAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Not far from Powick Bridge, where after two hours' hard fighting the
+Royalists were defeated by General Fleetwood, stands a quaint old house
+of timber and plaster, with nine gables facing three sides of the
+compass, and a high three-gabled oaken porch in front. It is called
+Priors Court, or the White House of Pixham, and since "the battle of
+Powick Br<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>idge" it has been occupied by the same family, though the name
+by inter-marriage has changed from time to time. A branch of the Lanes
+of Bentley were the representatives in the seventeenth century, and
+according to tradition the famous Jane Lane lived here for a time.
+Though the house belongs to the Tudor period, many alterations were made
+early in the eighteenth century, but the little interior quadrangle
+remains much in its original condition. One expects to find within, the
+usual comfortable chimney corners and cosy panelled rooms, and perhaps
+some ancient furniture; but it comes as a surprise to find a museum of
+relics and heirlooms taking us back to the days of the Tudors and
+Stuarts.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 386px;"><a name="ILL_017" id="ILL_017"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_017.jpg" width="386" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">PIRTON COURT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the hall, we pass up the great oak staircase to bedrooms and
+corridors containing chests and cabinets full of ancient deeds and
+manuscripts, not the least remarkable of which is a parchment roll upon
+which is painted a series of mysterious astrological and other pictures,
+supposed once upon a time to have been the property of the necromancer
+Dr. John Dee, who lived for some time in the neighbouring town of
+Upton-on-Severn. If this is really a document of Dr. Dee's, one would
+like to see it preserved with the famous crystal in the British Museum.
+The old presses and cupboards are full of the richly embroidered
+bed-hangings and homespun sheets wrought by the ladies of the house in
+the days when their energies were devoted to domestic purposes, and the
+idea of hockey or ladies' clubs would have made their hair to stand
+erect. There are piles of arras carefully packed away when wall-paper
+came in fashion. There are chairs and tables dating back three centuries
+or more, and mirrors which have reflected fair faces patched, with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>
+head-gear piled up mountain high.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 293px;"><a name="ILL_018" id="ILL_018"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_018.jpg" width="293" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SEVERN END.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In a corner stands a spinning-wheel, distaff, and reel complete, as if
+some dainty damsel at work had fled at the approach of footsteps; and
+there beyond is a dusty pillion which conjures up a picture of Mistress
+Lane seated behind "Will Jackson" upon their way to Bristol. The ancient
+glass and china, too, would whet the appetite of the most exacting
+connoisseur. But we must not linger longer, or we shall envy these
+choice possessions.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_019" id="ILL_019"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_019.jpg" width="400" height="290" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SEVERN END.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Pirton Court, not far away, has not been plastered over like many houses
+with elaborate wooden "magpie" work beneath, and the ornamental timber
+in circular design is unimpaired. But the quaintest timber gables were
+those at Severn End<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>, the ancient seat of the Lechmeres, some five miles
+to the south-west. Alas! that this ancient mansion should have been
+destroyed by fire,&mdash;a loss as great as that of Clevedon or Ingestre,
+greater, perhaps, as its architecture was so quaint: a delightful
+mixture of the Tudor and Stuart periods to which it was no easy matter
+to fix a date, for the timber portions looked much older than the
+seventeenth century, when they were built by Sir Nicholas Lechmere, a
+nephew of Sir Thomas Overbury, a worthy and learned judge whose
+manuscripts give a very realistic peep into the domestic life of the
+times and the orderly way in which his establishment was conducted. Both
+front and back of the house were strikingly picturesque, but the front
+was the most curious, half black and white angular gables and half
+curved and rounded red-brick Jacobean gables. On either side of the
+entrance porch were two great chimney-stacks, and in the corners where
+the wings abutted, small square towers, one of which was sharpened to a
+point like a lead pencil. At the back, facing smooth lawns (where the
+judge used to sit and study), attached to the main building was what
+looked like a distinct structure, the sort of overhanging half-timbered
+house with carved barge-boards, pendants, and hip-knobs that are
+familiar objects at Shrewsbury or Tewkesbury. The lower part of this was
+of red-brick, and beside it on the right was a smaller abutting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>
+half-timber gable. The great oak staircases had fantastic newels and
+balusters, and around the panelled hall was a fixed oak settle, and
+armour on the walls: carved oak cabinets and chairs, and tables. The
+room in which Charles I. slept was pointed out, and that of
+Major-General Massey, for Severn End was that great soldier's
+headquarters before the battle of Worcester.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles to the south-west, within the boundary of the once wild
+district, Malvern Chase, is another remarkable old house, Birtsmorton
+Court, a moated and fortified manor-house in a singularly good state of
+preservation. Though quiet and peaceful enough, its embattled gateway
+has a formidable look, showing the teeth of its portcullis, like a
+bull-dog on the alert for intruders. The drawbridge is also there, and
+walls of immense thickness, both speaking of the insecurity of the days
+when it was built. The "parlour," with windows looking out upon the
+moat, is richly panelled with the various quarterings of the ancient
+lords, the Nanfans, executed in colours around the cornice. The arms and
+crest also occur upon the elaborately carved oak fireplace. On the
+left-hand side of this fireplace there was formerly the entrance to a
+hiding-place concealed in the wainscoting, but there is nothing now but
+a very visible cupboard which leads nowhere. Tradition asserts that
+Henry V.'s old associate, Sir John Oldcastle, sought refuge here before
+he was capt<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>ured and burned as a Lollard. But as that happened in 1417,
+the date does not tally with the period to which the room belongs,
+namely, a century later. But the original apartments have been divided
+(some are dilapidated chambers, now used as a storeroom for Gloucester
+cheeses), so that it is difficult to trace how they were placed. There
+is also a story of a passage running beneath the moat into the adjacent
+woods; but whether Sir John got so far, or whether after his escape from
+the Tower he even got farther than his own castle of Cowling in Kent,
+when he was hunted down by orders of his former boon companions, we
+cannot say. By local report Edward IV. and Margaret of Anjou as well as
+the little Lancastrian Prince of Wales sought shelter at Birtsmorton.
+But for Margaret another house nearer Tewkesbury claims the honour of
+offering a refuge from the battlefield. This is an old timber-framed
+building with carved barge-boards, near the village of Bushley, called
+Payne's Place, or Yew Tree Farm, which once belonged to Thomas Payne and
+Ursula his wife, whose brasses may be seen in the church. In the eastern
+wing of this old house Queen Margaret's bedroom is pointed out. The hall
+with open timber roof is still intact but divided, and upon the oak
+beams a century after the battle of Tewkesbury the following lines were
+painted on a frieze:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">"To lyve as wee shoulde alwayes dye it were a goodly trade,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">To change lowe Death for Lyfe so hye, no better change is made;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">For all our worldly thynges are vayne, in them is there no truste,</span><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 21em;">Wee see all states awhyle remayne, and then they turn to duste."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Had the lines existed then, would the poor queen have derived comfort
+when the news reached her of her son's death on the battlefield?</p>
+
+<p>Birtsmorton is associated with the early career of Cardinal Wolsey, for
+here he acted as chaplain during the retirement of Sir Richard Nanfan
+from service to the State. Through Sir Richard's Court influence Wolsey
+was promoted to the service of Henry VIII.</p>
+
+<p>The "Bloody Meadow" near Birtsmorton must not be confused with that near
+Tewkesbury, the scene of the last battle between the Houses of York and
+Lancaster. This one was the scene of a single combat between a Nanfan
+and his sister's lover, in which the latter was slain. The heart-broken
+lady left a sum of money that a sermon should be annually preached at
+Berrow church (the burial-place of the Nanfans) against duelling; and
+this we believe is done to this day. The cruciform church has been
+painfully restored, but contains a fine altar-tomb to Sir John, Sir
+Richard Nanfan's grandfather, Squire of the Body to King Henry VI.; but
+beyond a leper's window and a queer old alms-box ther<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>e is nothing else
+remarkable.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 295px;"><a name="ILL_020" id="ILL_020"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_020.jpg" width="295" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">RIPPLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Two of the prettiest villages hereabouts are Ripple and Strensham, the
+former on the Severn, the latter on the Avon. At Ripple, in a cosy
+corner backed by creeper-grown timber cottages, is the lofty stone shaft
+of the cross, and by the steps at the base the stocks and whipping-post.
+Strensham is famous as the birthplace of the witty author of <i>Hudibras</i>.
+It is a peaceful little place, with a few thatched cottages, a fine old
+church near the winding river, embosomed in trees. The church is
+remarkable for its fine rood-loft with painted panels of saints, which
+at some time has been made into a gallery at the west end, and we hope
+may be replaced one of these days.</p>
+
+<p>Following the river Avon to Evesham and Stratford-on-Avon, there are
+many charming old-world villages rich in timber and thatched cottages.
+Such a village is Offenham above Evesham. The village street leads
+nowhere, and at the end of it stands a tapering Maypole, as much as to
+say, "Go on with your modern improvement elsewhere if you like, but here
+I intend to stay"; and w<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>e believe it is duly decorated and danced around
+in the proper fashion, though the inhabitants by the "new style" of the
+calendar can scarcely dispense with overcoats. We will not follow the
+course of the river so far as "drunken Bidford" (where the immortal bard
+and some convivial friends are said to have been overcome by the effects
+of the strong ale at the "Falcon"), but turn our steps southwards to
+Broadway, which of recent years has had an invasion from America. But
+the great broad street of substantial Tudor and Jacobean houses deserves
+all the praise that has been lavished upon it. We were there before it
+had particularly attracted Jonathan's eye, and after a fortnight's fare
+of bread and cheese and eggs and bacon (the usual fare of a walking
+tour), we alighted upon a princely pigeon pie at the "Lygon Arms." Under
+such circumstances one naturally grows enthusiastic; but even if the
+fine old hostelry had offered as cold a reception as that at Stilton, we
+could not but help feeling kindly disposed towards so stately a roadside
+inn. Like the "Bell" at Stilton, it is stone-built, with mullioned
+windows and pointed gables; but here there is a fine carved doorway,
+which gives it an air of grandeur. There are roomy corridors within,
+leading by stout oak doors to roomier apartments, some oak panelled, and
+others with moulded ceilings and carved stone fireplaces. One of these
+is known as "Cromwell's room," and one ought to be called "Charles'
+room" also, for during the Civil W<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>ars the martyr king slept there on
+more than one occasion. The wide oak staircase with its deep set window
+on the first landing, reminds one of the staircase leading out of the
+great hall of Haddon. There is a little wicket gate to keep the dogs
+below. Farther up the village street stands Tudor House, which with its
+ball-surmounted gable ends and bay-window with heraldic shields above,
+bears a cloak-and-rapier look about it; but it was built, according to
+the date upon it, when the old Cavalier was poor and soured, and had
+sheathed his sword, but nevertheless was counting the months when the
+king should come to his own again. The house was empty, and presumably
+had been shut up for years. Referring to some notes, we find the
+following memoranda by the friend who was with us upon the occasion of
+our visit. "We could obtain no information as to the ownership, or still
+more important, the holder of the keys. One old man, who might have
+remembered it being built but was slightly hazy on the subject, said no
+one ever went inside. Other inquiries in the village led only to intense
+astonishment at our desire. And the whole concluded in a large
+contingent of the inhabitants standing speechless, marvelling before the
+house itself; in which position we left them and it."</p>
+
+<p>The old church of Edward IV.'s time is now, or was, deserted in favour
+of an early-Victorian one much out of keeping with the village, or
+rather town that it once was.</p>
+
+<p>Another decayed town, once of more importance still, is Chipping
+Campden, four miles to the north-east of Broadway, in a corner of
+Gloucestershire. Here again we have the great wide street wit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>h a
+profusion of grey stone gables on either side, and projecting inn signs,
+and sundials in profusion. At one extremity a noble elm tree and at the
+other a huge chestnut, stand like sentinels over the ancient buildings
+that they may not share the fate of the neighbouring manor-house, which
+was burned down by its loyal owner, the third Viscount Campden, during
+the Civil War, to save it from the ignoble fate of being seized and
+garrisoned for the Parliamentarians. From the imposing entrance gate and
+two remaining curious pavilions at either end of a long terrace, one may
+judge it must have been a fine early-Jacobean mansion. Strange that
+Campden House, their ancient town residence, should have perished in the
+flames also, but over two centuries afterwards. Near the entrance gate
+are the almshouses, a very picturesque line of pointed gables and lofty
+chimneys. Above them rises the graceful early-Perpendicular church
+tower, which in design and proportions is worthy of a cathedral. But the
+quaint Jacobean pillared market-house, the Court-house with its handsome
+panelled buttresses, and a house of the time of Richard III. with
+two-storied bay-window, and an ancient hall, are among the most
+interesting buildings in the town. One of the many sign-boards displays
+a poetic effusion by a Campden chimney-sweep, a modernised version of
+the original which ran as follows:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 21em;">"John Hunter Campden doe live here,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">Sweeps chimbleys clean and not too deare.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">And if your chimbley be a-fire,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">He'll put it out if you desire."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The "Red Lion" is a typical hostelry of the Stuart days, and a
+contemporary house opposite, bearing the date 1656, is well worth
+notice: the "Green Dragon" also, dated 1690.</p>
+
+<p>The interior of the church is disappointing; its new benches, windows,
+roof, and chancel giving it a modern look; but there are some fine old
+monuments to the ancient lords of the manor, especially that of the
+first Viscount Campden and his countess, and there are some fine
+fifteenth-century brasses in the chancel.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_021" id="ILL_021"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_021.jpg" width="400" height="302" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">STANTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Norton House, to the north of the town, near Dover Hill (famous for the
+Cotswold games in "the good old days"), is a picturesque, many-gabled
+house; and at Mickleton, to the north-east, there are some curious old
+buildings. Farther north are the remains of Long Marston manor-house,
+still containing the roasting-jack which Charles II. as pseudo<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>
+scullery-man omitted to wind up, and brought the wrath of the cook upon
+his head, much as King Arthur did when he burnt the cakes. But our way
+lies southwards through Broadway to Buckland, Stanton, and a place that
+should be sylvan according to its name&mdash;Stanway-in-the-Woods. Buckland
+church and rectory are both of interest. The former has a fine
+Perpendicular tower with some grotesque gargoyle demons at the corners.
+The benches are good, and a window dated 1585 retains some ancient
+painted glass, as the roof does its old colouring, in which the Yorkist
+rose is conspicuous. The hall of the rectory has a fine open-timber roof
+with central arch richly carved, and upon a window is depicted a rebus
+representing one William Grafton, rector of Buckland from 1450 to 1506.
+The manor-house also once possessed a hall with lofty timber-framed roof
+and huge fireplace of the fourteenth century; but, sad to relate, it was
+destroyed when the house was modernised some years ago, but there still
+remains a pretty old staircase of a later date.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_022" id="ILL_022"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_022.jpg" width="400" height="288" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">STANWAY HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Farther south the country becomes more wooded and hilly. The high ground
+rises on the left above Stanton, and at the foot of the hill near the
+village nestle the pretty old church and gabled manor-house, with its
+complement of old farm buildings adjacent. The village street, like
+Broadway, consists of rows of grey stone gables, at the end of which
+stands the sundial-surmounted cross. The interior of the church has not
+been spoiled; the carved oak canopied pulpit towering above the ancient
+pews is quite in keeping with the old-world v<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>illage. The Stanways are
+about two miles to the south, but there are so few houses that one
+wonders where the children come from to attend the village school. Wood
+Stanway is not disappointing like many places possessing picturesque
+names that we could quote, for it is enveloped in trees, and so is
+Church Stanway for that matter.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_023" id="ILL_023"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_023.jpg" width="400" height="294" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">STANWAY HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Turning a corner of the road one comes suddenly upon a wonderful old
+gateway with fantastic gables and a noble Jacobean doorway. On one side
+of it is a high garden wall with great circular holes in it, and over
+the wall peep the gables and ornamental perforated parapet of a fine
+mansion of Charles I.'s time. This is always a most fascinating picture;
+but to see it at its best is when the roses are in bloom, for above the
+old wall and through the rounded apertures, the queen of flowers
+flourishes in gay festoons as if rejoicing at its surroundings. But if
+one is so fortunate as to obtain admission to the gardens then may he or
+she rejoice also, for upon the other side of that grey old wall are the
+prettiest of gardens and the grandest trees, one of which, an ancient
+yew, is no less than twenty-two feet in girth. There are terraces, stone
+summer-houses, and nooks and corners such as one only sees in the
+grounds of our ancestral homes. Within, the mansion has been much
+restored and somewhat modernised, but the great hall and other rooms
+take one back to the time of Inigo Jones, who designed the entrance
+gatew<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>ay. In the churchyard close by is buried the most popular local man
+of his time, Robert Dover. If he lived in our day he surely would be the
+president of the "Anti-Puritanical League," for he it was who made a
+successful crusade against the spirit of religious austerity, the
+tendency of which was to put down holidays of sport and merry-making. As
+a result of his efforts, the hills above Chipping Camden were annually
+at Whitsuntide the scene of a revival of the mediæval days of festivity
+and manly exercise. Upon these occasions the originator acted as master
+of the ceremonies, and was duly respected, for he always wore a suit of
+King James' own clothes. Dover died at the beginning of the Civil War,
+so, fortunately for him, he did not live through the rigid rule of
+Cromwell. The Cotswold games, however, were revived at the Restoration.
+To this public benefactor (the shadow of whose cloak has surely fallen
+on the shoulders of Lord Avebury) Drayton wrote in eulogy:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">"We'll have thy statue in some rock cut out</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">With brave inscriptions garnished about,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">And under written, 'Lo! this is the man</span><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 21em;">Dover, that first these noble sports began.'</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">Lads of the hills and lasses of the vale</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">In many a song and many a merry tale</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">Shall mention thee; and having leave to play,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">Unto thy name shall make a holiday."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Yet nobody did set up his statue, as should have been done on "Dover
+Hill" by Chipping Camden.</p>
+
+<p>Some odd cures for certain ailments are prescribed in remote parts of
+the Cotswolds. Garden snails, for instance, which in Wiltshire are sold
+for ordinary consumption, namely, food, as "wall fruit," are used here
+externally as a remedy for ague: and roasted mouse is a specific for the
+whooping-cough. But for the latter complaint as efficacious a result may
+be obtained by the pleasanter mode of riding on a donkey's back nine
+times round a finger-post. This remedy, however, properly belongs to
+Worcestershire.</p>
+
+<p>If we continue in a south-westerly direction we shall pass historic
+Sudeley, near Winchcombe, Postlip Hall, and Southam House. Sudeley
+Castle must have been magnificent before it was dismantled in the Civil
+War. Bravely it stood two sie<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>ges, but at length capitulated; and being
+left a ruin by Cromwell's soldiers, the magnificent fifteenth-century
+mansion was left for close upon two centuries to act as a quarry for the
+neighbourhood. Under such disadvantages was its restoration commenced,
+and it is wonderful what has been done; yet there has been a certain
+admixture of Edwardian and Elizabethan portions which is somewhat
+confusing. The banqueting room, with its noble oriel windows (originally
+glazed with beryl), the keep with its dungeons, and the kitchen with its
+huge fireplace four yards across, speak of days of lordly greatness, and
+the names of many weighty nobles as well as kings and queens are closely
+associated with the castle. Richard, Duke of Gloucester, was once
+possessed of it; the youngest son of Owen Tudor and Henry V.'s widow
+lived there; so did Sir Thomas Seymour, Edward VI.'s uncle, who married
+and buried there Henry VIII.'s last queen, at which ceremony Lady Jane
+Grey was chief mourner. Elizabeth was here upon one of her progresses,
+and Charles I. was the last sovereign who slept there. The restored
+rooms are full of historical furniture, pictures, and relics. Here may
+be seen Amy Robsart's bed, or one of them, from Cumnor Hall: and the bed
+upon which the martyr king slept, not here but at Kineton, before
+Edgehill. There are numerous relics of the queen, who had the tact to
+outlive her august spouse, and the foolishness to marry a fourth
+husband. Catherine Parr's various books and literary compositions may
+here be studied, including the letter in which she accepted Seymour's
+offer of marriage. He was by no means the best of husbands, but a vast
+improvement on the royal tyrant who had coldly planned the queen's
+destruction; but owing to her ready wit his wrath was turned upon
+Wriothesley, who was to have arrested her; for when he came to perform
+that office, Henry called him an "an errant knave and a beast." There
+are lockets containing locks of her auburn hair, and portions of the
+dress she wore. But the main interest is centred in the chapel where the
+queen was buried. This building was dismantled with the rest in 1649,
+and the fine Chandos monuments destroyed. Catherine's tomb, which was
+within the altar rails, probably shared the fate of the rest, and its
+position was soon forgotten. However, after the lapse of nearly a
+century and a half, a plain slab of alabaster in the north wall,
+doubtless part of the original monument, led to the discovery of a
+leaden case in the shape of a human form lying immediately below, only a
+foot or so beneath the surface of the ground. Upon the breast was the
+following inscription:</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center">K. P.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Here lyethe <span class="smcap">Quene</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Kateryn</span> wife to <span class="smcap">Kyng</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Henry the VIII</span>., and</p>
+
+<p class="center">Last the wife of Thomas</p>
+
+<p class="center">Lord of Sudeley, highe</p>
+
+<p class="center">Admiyrall of England</p>
+
+<p class="center">And vncle to Kyng</p>
+
+<p class="center">Edward the VI.</p>
+
+<p class="center">dyed</p>
+
+<p class="center">5 September</p>
+
+<p class="center">MCC<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>CCC</p>
+
+<p class="center">XLVIII.</p>
+
+<p>The cerecloth, hard with wax and gums, was removed from a portion of the
+arm, which was discovered after close upon three centuries to be still
+white and soft. According to another account, when the covering of the
+face was removed, not only the features, but the eyes were in perfect
+preservation. The body was reinterred, but treated with no decent
+respect, for the spot was occupied as an enclosure for rabbits; and upon
+one occasion it was dug up by some drunken men, who by local tradition,
+as a reward for their desecration, all came to an untimely end. The
+alabaster block may still be seen in the north wall of the chapel, but
+the body now lies beneath a recumbent figure in white marble which has
+been placed to the queen's memory.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_024" id="ILL_024"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_024.jpg" width="400" height="299" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">POSTLIP HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Postlip Hall stands high in a picturesque spot not far from the main
+road to Cheltenham. It is a many-gabled Elizabethan house, preserving
+its original character, but spoiled by the insertion of plate-glass
+windows. Within there is one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> particularly fine room of elaborate oak
+carvings (and the arms of the Broadways who built the house) of
+sufficient importance to form the subject of one of the plates in Nash's
+<i>Mansions</i>. The house has or had the reputation of being haunted; but
+that was long ago in the days when it stood neglected and uninhabited.</p>
+
+<p>Southam House, or Southam-de-la-Bere, to the south-west (also depicted
+in Nash), is a curious early-Tudor building of timber and stone, and has
+the advantage over Sudeley, as it was not of sufficient military
+importance to be roughly handled by the Parliamentarian soldiers. The
+ancient painted glass in the windows and an elaborate chimney-piece
+bearing shields of arms came from Hayles Abbey. The ceilings are oak
+panelled, and the arms of Henry VII. occur in numerous places. The
+situation of the house is fine, and the view over the vast stretch of
+country towards Worcestershire and Herefordshire magnificent. The
+builder of the mansion was Sir John Huddleston, whose wife was the queen
+Jane Seymour's aunt. The de-la-Beres, to whom the estate passed by
+marriage, were closely allied with the Plantagenet kings, two sisters
+marrying Thomas Plantagenet, Edward III.'s son, and Henry Plantagenet,
+Duke of Lancaster.</p>
+
+<p>Avoiding Cheltenham, we will pick up the road to Stroud at Birdlip, a
+favourite meeting-place of the hounds on account of the surrounding
+woods. Coming from the south there is a gradual climb through those
+delightful woods until you burst upon a gorgeous view, with the ancient
+"Ermine Street" running, like a white wand lying upon the level pattern<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>
+work of meadowland, to Gloucester, and the hills of Malvern away in the
+distance. Whether it was the great dark mass of hill in the foreground
+contrasted against the level stretch of country, or whether it was the
+stormy sky when we visited Birdlip on a late autumnal day, that gave the
+scene such a wild, romantic look, it would be difficult to say, but we
+remember no view with such breadth of contrast of light and shade, or
+one so fitted to lead the imagination into the mystic realms of
+fairyland.</p>
+
+<p>Up in these heights, and in so secluded a spot, it came as a surprise to
+find a museum. This we believe long since has been dispersed by the
+hammer, but we remember some really interesting things. The lady
+curator, the proprietress of the "Black Horse," had been given many of
+the exhibits by the neighbouring gentry, and was not a little proud of
+her collection. Valuable coins, flint weapons, fossils, pictures, and
+the usual medley. There was one little oil painting on a panel, the head
+of a beautiful girl with high powdered hair of the Georgian period,
+which had all the vigour of a Romney, and undoubtedly was by a master
+craftsman. Two curiosities we remember in particular: a pair of leggings
+said to have been worn by the great Duke of Marlborough, and the wooden
+finger-stocks from a village dame-school. It would be interesting to
+know where these curiosities are now. The only other finger-stocks we
+know of are in A<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>shby-de-la-Zouch church, Leicestershire.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_025" id="ILL_025"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_025.jpg" width="400" height="295" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">STOCKS, PAINSWICK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Painswick, to the south-west, is a sleepy old town with a fine
+Perpendicular church much restored internally, but containing some
+handsome monuments. The churchyard is noted for its formal array of
+clipped yew trees, probably unique. They have the same peculiarity as
+Stonehenge, for it is said nobody can count them twice the same. As,
+however, we did not visit the adjacent inn, we managed to accomplish the
+task. Close to the church wall are the stocks&mdash;iron ones.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_026" id="ILL_026"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_026.jpg" width="400" height="379" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">NAILSWORTH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Upon the way to Stroud many weird old buildings are passed which once
+were, and some are still, cloth mills; but some are deserted and
+dilapidated, and have a sad look, as if remembering more prosperous
+days; and when the leaves are fast falling in the famous golden valley
+they look indeed forlorn. One would think there can be little poetry
+about an old cloth mill, but ere one gives an opinion one must visit the
+golden valley in the autumn. Around Nailsworth, Rodborough, and
+Woodchester there are many ancient houses which have degenerated into
+poor tenements. Such a one at Nailsworth has the brief address "No. 5
+Egypt," which by all appearance was an important house in its day. A
+gentleman who resided in a more squalid part related how he had
+discovered a cavalier's rapier up in the roof of a mansion, but in a
+weak moment had parted with it for half a crown. "Southfield" at
+Woodchester is perhaps the most picturesque of these stately houses, a
+house which near London would fetch a formidable rent, but here a
+ridiculously low one. Some six miles out of Stroud a really decent
+house, garden, and orchard may be had for next to a song. A light<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>
+railway may have now sent prices up, by striking northwards, but not
+many years back we saw one very excellent little place "to let," the
+rent of which was only sixpence a week, and the tenant had given notice
+because the landlord had been so grasping as to raise it to sixpence
+halfpenny!</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_027" id="ILL_027"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_027.jpg" width="400" height="300" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">BEVERSTONE CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Between Nailsworth and Tetbury are Beverstone Castle and the secluded
+manor-house Chavenage within a mile of it. The castle stands near the
+road, an ivy-covered ruin of the time of Edward III., but with portions
+dating from the Conquest. Incorporated are some Tudor remains and some
+old farm buildings, forming together a pleasing picture.</p>
+
+<p>To Major-General Massey, Beverstone, like Sudeley, is indebted for its
+battered appearance. It held out for the king, but Massey with three
+hundred and eighty men came and took it by storm. The general having
+done as much damage as possible in Gloucestershire d<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>uring the Civil War,
+at length made some repairs by fighting on the other side at Worcester;
+and perhaps it was as well, for had he been on the victorious side he
+might have treated "the faithful city" with as little respect as
+Beverstone. In the peaceful days of the Restoration, which Massey
+lived to see, as there were no more castles to blow up he dabbled
+in the pyrotechnic art, suggestive of the pathetic passage in
+<i>Patience</i>&mdash;Yearning for whirlwinds, and having to do the best you can
+with the bellows.</p>
+
+<p>The regicide squire of Chavenage must also have been skilled in the
+noble art, for by common report at his death a few months after that of
+the martyr king, he vanished in flames of fire! But there was a
+ceremonious preliminary before this simple and effective mode of
+cremation. A sable coach driven by a headless coachman with a star upon
+his breast arrived at the dead man's door, and the shrouded form of the
+regicide was seen to glide into it. But bad as Nathaniel Stephens may
+have been, it is scarcely just that all future lords of Chavenage must
+make their exit in this manner.</p>
+
+<p>The old house is unpretentious in appearance. Built in the form of the
+letter E, it has tall latticed windows lighting a gre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>at hall (famous
+once for its collection of armour), and a plain wing on either side,
+with narrow Elizabethan Gothic-headed windows. There is a ghostly look
+about it. It stands back from the road, but sufficiently near that one
+may see the entrance porch (bearing the date 1579) and the ruts of the
+carriage wheels upon the trim carriage drive. Arguments as strong as any
+in <i>Ingoldsby</i> to prove the mystic story must be true.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="NOOKS_IN_NORTHERN_WILTSHIRE" id="NOOKS_IN_NORTHERN_WILTSHIRE">NOOKS IN NORTHERN</a></h2>
+
+<h2>WILTSHIRE</h2>
+
+<p>After a sojourn in north-west Wilts it is refreshing to dip into the
+wooded lanes of the Home Counties and see again the red-brick cottages
+and homesteads which have such a snug and homely look after the cold
+grey stone and glaring chalk roads. For old-world villages and
+manor-houses, however, one could not choose a better exploring g<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>round,
+but not, please note, for the craze of picking up bits of old oak,
+judging by what we overheard the very first day we stopped in one of the
+most out-of-the-way places of all.</p>
+
+<p>"Anything old inside?" asked somebody at the doorway, having led gently
+and gracefully up to it so as not to arouse suspicion. "Nothing," was
+the reply. "May I look round inside?" was asked. "No." Then after a
+pause. "Any other of the cottagers got any old chairs, or china?" "One
+or two of them <i>had</i> some, but they sold what they had to Mrs. &mdash;&mdash; of
+&mdash;&mdash;." "<i>Of</i> course," was the disgusted reply; "she's <i>always</i> first, and
+gets everything!"</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 313px;"><a name="ILL_028" id="ILL_028"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_028.jpg" width="313" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">GATE-HOUSE, SPYE PARK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The conversation gives but an idea of the systematic way that a crusade
+for the antique is carried on. If the hunter makes a "find," and the
+owner will not part, that unfortunate cottager is persecuted until he or
+she does part, sooner or later to regret the folly. And, alas! churches
+are not even sacred from these sharks. How often have we not seen some
+curious piece of furniture mentioned as being in the church, and, lo! it
+has vanished&mdash;where? And do not the empty brackets over many an ancient
+tomb tell a tale? What have become of the helmets of the ancient lords
+of the manors? We can quote an instance offhand. In the fine old church
+of Bromham, three of the helmets of the manorial lords, the Bayntons,
+are still there, two of them perhaps only funereal helmets, and not the
+actual casques of warfare; but there are three if not four vacant
+brackets which perchance once supported the envied headpieces with
+pointed visor of the fifteenth century. Aloft also are some rusty<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>
+gauntlets, and one of the helmets still bears the crest of the eagle's
+head. The manor descended from the Beauchamps to the Bayntons, the last
+of whom was the nineteenth in descent from Sir Henry Baynton, Knight
+Marshal of the household to Henry the Second. His mother was the eldest
+daughter and co-heiress of John Wilmot, Earl of Rochester, and Miss
+Malet the runaway heiress. A recumbent effigy of Sir Roger Touchet in
+alabaster (resembling in a remarkable degree the late Sir Henry Irving
+as Richard III.) is covered with the carved initials of vandal visitors,
+not, we may add, only of our own and fathers' and grandfathers' time,
+but dating back from the reign of Elizabeth; so it is comforting to see
+that our ancestors were as prone to disfigure monuments in this way as
+is the modern 'Arry. One of the initials, I. W., perhaps may be that of
+the witty and wicked Earl of Rochester, who by repute made Spye an
+occasional residence, although the Bayntons certainly held the estate
+some years after the Lady Anne, his daughter's death in 1703. The
+ceiling of the Baynton chapel is richly carved, and the bosses and
+brackets show their original faded colouring of blue and gold. There are
+also coloured niches for saints; and on a canopied tomb of Elizabeth
+Touchet, a brass of a kneeling figure, and a tablet of the coat of arms
+is enamelled in colours. There also is a fine brass of John Baynton in
+Gothic armour.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_029" id="ILL_029"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_029.jpg" width="400" height="260" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">LACOCK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>All that remains of the old Jacobean house of Spye is a subterranean
+passage beneath the terrace; but the Tudor entrance gate to the
+picturesque park stands on the left-hand side of the road to Lacock just
+before the road begins its winding precipitous descent. Evelyn saw the
+house soon after it was built, and likened it to a long barn. The view
+is superb, but, strangely enough, not a single window looked out upon
+the prospect! After dining and a game of bowls with Sir Edward Baynton,
+the Diarist took coach; but, says Evelyn, "in the meantime our coachmen
+were made so exceeding drunk, that in returning home we escaped great
+dangers. This, it seems, was by order of the knight, that all
+gentlemen's servants be so treated; but the custom is barbarous and much
+unbecoming a knight, still less a Christian."</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 273px;"><a name="ILL_030" id="ILL_030"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_030.jpg" width="273" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">LACOCK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A mile or so to the east of the entrance gate of Spye is Sandy Lane, a
+tiny hamlet with trim thatched cottages and a sturdy seventeenth-century
+hostelry, the "George," looking down the street; and farther along in
+the direction of Devizes stands the "Bell," another ancient roadside
+inn, which, judging from its mullioned windows, knobbed gables, and
+rustic porch, must date back to the days of the first Charles.</p>
+
+<p>In Bromham village also there are some pretty half-timber buildings, not
+forgetting the "lock-up" by the churchyard. The exterior of the church
+i<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>s richly sculptured; a fine example of the purest Gothic.</p>
+
+<p>Sleepy old Lacock, with its numerous overhanging gables, is a typical
+unspoiled village. It was once upon a time a town, but by all
+appearances it never can have been a flourishing one; and let us hope it
+will remain in its dormant state now that there is nothing out of
+harmony, for the Lacock of to-day must look very much as it did two
+hundred years or more ago. It consists mainly of two wide streets, with
+a fine old church at the end of one and a lofty seventeenth-century inn
+at the other. Opposite the latter is a monastic barn with blocked-up
+arched doorway, and facing it a fine row of timbered houses. Wherever
+you go the pervading tone is grey, and one misses the little front
+gardens with bright flowers and creepers. By the school stands the
+village cross. Farther along a great wide porch projects into the
+street, and over it a charming traceried wooden window. Nearer the
+church the road narrows, and a group of timber cottages make a pleasing
+picture, one of them with a wide entrance of carved oak spandrels above
+an earlier stone doorway. The church, a noble edifice, has a very
+graceful spire and some good tombs, including two wooden mural monume<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>nts
+to Edward Baynard who lived in Elizabeth's reign, and to Lady Ursula
+Baynard in the reign of Charles I.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 378px;"><a name="ILL_031" id="ILL_031"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_031.jpg" width="378" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">LACOCK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The monument of Sir John Talbot of Lacock describes him as born of the
+most noble family of the Duke of Shrewsbury, which is somewhat
+confusing. Sir John was descended from John, second Earl of Shrewsbury,
+who died in 1460, and his monument was erected when the twelfth earl and
+first duke was living. Sir John died in 1713, and his son and heir
+predeceased him, as mentioned on the monument.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_032" id="ILL_032"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_032.jpg" width="400" height="382" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">LACOCK ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But the principal object of interest at Lacock, of course, is its famous
+abbey, the early fifteenth-century cloisters being, it is said, the most
+perfect example in England. It has been a residence since the
+Dissolution, when the estate was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir William
+Sherrington, the daughter of whose brother Sir Henry married a Talbot of
+Salwarpe, the ancestor of the present owner, C. H. Talbot, Esq., a
+learned antiquary, by whose care and skill so many points of interest
+have been brought to light. The cloisters, refectory, chapter-house,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>
+sacristy, etc., are in an excellent state of preservation, and there
+are some fine hooded fireplaces, and among the curiosities, a great
+stone tank in which fish were kept; and the nuns' cauldron, something
+after the style of Guy of Warwick's porridge-pot. The groined roof of
+the cloister is remarkable, the bosses showing their original colouring,
+nearly two hundred or more all being of different design. The sides
+facing the road are flanked by an octagonal tower of singular beauty,
+ornamented with balustrades, and a staircase turret crowned with a
+cupola. This contains the muniment-room, in which is preserved Henry
+III.'s Magna Charta, which belonged to the foundress, Ela, Countess of
+Shrewsbury, the widow of William Longespee, the son of Henry II. and
+Fair Rosamond. Dugdale tells us that the site "Snaile's Mede" was
+pointed out to this good lady in a vision. An epitaph to the abbess Ela
+may still be seen within the cloisters.</p>
+
+<p>Sir John Talbot of Lacock was a staunch Royalist, and the first person
+who received the Merry Monarch in his arms at Dover upon his landing in
+1660. Both Sir John and his son Sharington Talbot figure as duellists in
+the diaries of Pepys and Evelyn. The former was one of the six
+combatants in that famous encounter at Barn Elms, where Buckingham
+mortally wounded Francis Talbot, the eleventh Earl of Shrewsbury. Sir
+John proved a better swordsman than his antagonist Captain William
+Jenkins, for the latter was left dead upon the field. The Royal pardon
+from Charles II. is still preserved in Lacock Abbey. The duel between
+the younger Talbot and Captain Love at Glast<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>onbury, in July 1685, is
+mentioned by Evelyn. Both commanded a company of militia against
+Monmouth at Sedgemoor, and after the battle an argument arose as to
+which fought the best. The discussion grew heated, swords were drawn,
+and Talbot was killed. He was the eldest and only surviving son of the
+knight, and had he left issue, upon the death of the eleventh Earl of
+Shrewsbury's son, the first and only duke, the Lacock Talbots would by
+priority have become Earls of Shrewsbury.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_033" id="ILL_033"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_033.jpg" width="400" height="303" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">BEWLEY COURT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Beyond the village, just before the road winds upwards towards Spye
+Park, is Bewley Court, an interesting old farm, with trefoil windows and
+Gothic entrance door of fine proportions. Its hall is intact, having its
+wide open fireplace and open timber roof with carved beams. A reed-grown
+canal, with one of those queer hand drawbridges, serves as the moat of
+yore. Bewley by some is corrupted into "Brewery," for close by there is
+such an establishment, and the ancient name has become submerged. There
+are said to have been four Courts originally belonging to Lacock Abbey,
+but this is the only remaining one.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 304px;"><a name="ILL_034" id="ILL_034"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_034.jpg" width="304" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Each approach to Lacock is picturesque, but the most pleasing is from
+the lane which runs up to <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>Gastard and Corsham. This joins the Melksham
+road by a charming old gabled and timbered cottage, not architecturally
+remarkable, but pleasing in outline and colour. From the lane above,
+this roadside cottage stands out against a background of wooded hill,
+and when the sun is low it presents a picture which must have tempted
+many an artist. On the way to Gastard and thence to Neston there are
+many tumble-down old places which seem to be entirely out of touch with
+the twentieth century. But at the highest point there is a startling
+notice which might alarm a motorist should he lose his way up in these
+narrow lanes. "Beware of the trams" is posted up in big letters! You
+look around in astonishment, for silence reigns supreme; but by and bye
+you come upon a stone quarry near the dilapidated entrance to what was
+once probably a manor house, and a light falls upon the meaning of the
+"trams." An artistic projecting signboard not far off bears the
+inscription:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">"Arise, get up the Season now</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">Drive up Brave Boys</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">God speed the Plough."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 378px;"><a name="ILL_035" id="ILL_035"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_035.jpg" width="378" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Up a narrow lane is a tiny chapel with a stone<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> mullioned window cut down
+into a semicircle at the top. A little stone sundial over the entrance
+door, and the smallest burial-ground we have ever seen, are worth
+notice for their quaintness. Farther to the west is Wormwood Farm, whose
+ivy-clad gables give the house a more homely look than most hereabouts.
+Higher up in a very bleak position is Chapel Plaster Hermitage, an older
+building, whose little belfry surely cannot summon many worshippers. It
+was a halting-place of pilgrims to Glastonbury, and in Georgian days of
+lonely travellers, who were eased of their purses by a gentleman of the
+road named Baxter, who afterwards was hung up as a warning on Claverton
+Down. Near the wood, the resort of this highwayman, is Hazelbury House,
+a sixteenth-century mansion, much reduced in size, whose formidable
+battlemented garden walls are worthy of a fortress. It was once a seat
+of the Strodes, whose arms are displayed on the lofty piers of the
+entrance gate. On the other side of the Great Bath road is Cheney Court,
+another gabled mansion which has been of importance in its day, and
+within half a mile, Coles Farm, a smaller building, alas! fast falling
+to decay. Its windows are broken and its panelled rooms are open to the
+weather. We ploughed our way through garden, or what was once a garden,
+waist-high with weeds, to a Tudor doorway whose door presumably was more
+accustomed to be opened than closed. At the foot of the staircase was a
+little wicket gate leading to the capacious cellars. Somebody had
+scrawled above an ancient fireplace close by, a plea against wanton
+mischief; but that was the only sign that anybody was interested in the
+place. But we learned something from an intelligent farmer who was
+picking apples in one of the surrounding orchards. It was very sad, he
+said, but so it had remained <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>for years. The owner was abroad, and though
+various people had tried to buy it, there were legal difficulties which
+prevented it. "But why not find a tenant?" we asked. "That would surely
+be better than allowing it to fall to pieces!" He shook his head. "'Tis
+too far gone," he said, "and there's no money to put it in repair." So
+Coles Farm, situated in the midst of lovely hills and orchards, gives
+the cold shoulder to many a willing tenant.</p>
+
+<p>It is a precipitous climb from here to Colerne, which across the valley
+looks old and inviting from the Bath road. But the place is sadly
+disappointing, and Hunters' Hall, which once upon a time was used as an
+inn and possessed some remarkably fine oak carvings, is now a shell, and
+scarcely worth notice.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_036" id="ILL_036"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_036.jpg" width="400" height="279" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The village of Corsham, approached either from the north or south, is
+equally picturesque. By the former there is a long row<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> of sturdy Tudor
+cottages with mullioned windows and deep-set doorways; by the latter,
+the grey gables of the ancient Hungerford Hospital, and beyond the huge
+piers of the entrance to Corsham Court. An inscription over the
+almshouse porch and beneath the elaborate sculptured arms of the
+Hungerfords, says that it was founded by Lady Margaret Hungerford,
+daughter of William Halliday, alderman of London, and Susan, daughter of
+Sir Henry Row, Knight, Lord Mayor of London. The chapel is on the
+right-hand side, and contains the original Jacobean pulpit, seats, and
+gallery. The pulpit is a two-decker, and the seat beneath a comfortable
+armchair of large proportions with an ingenious folding footstool. The
+screen is a fine piece of Jacobean carving, with pilasters and
+semicircular arches of graceful design, with the Hungerford arms upon
+two shields. There is a good oak staircase and a quaint exterior
+corridor leading to the several dwellings, with trim little square
+gardens allotted to each. Corsham Court has a stately and dignified
+appearance. The second entrance gate has colossal piers, which quite
+dwarf the others previously mentioned. Beyond are the stables, a
+picturesque row of Elizabethan gables and pinnacles. The south front of
+the house preserves its original character in the form of the letter E
+with the arms and the crest of the builder, William Halliday, on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>
+pinnacles over the gables, and seven bay-windows. The interior of the
+mansion has been much modernised, but the picture collection contains
+some of the choicest old masters. Some of Lord Methuen's ancestors by
+Reynolds and Gainsborough are wonderfully vigorous. Here is Vandyck's
+Charles I. on horseback, with which one is so familiar. How many
+replicas must there be of this famous picture! Charles II. hangs
+opposite his favourite son in one of the corridors&mdash;a fine portrait of
+the handsome Monmouth. One of the most curious pictures is a group by
+Sir Peter Lely, representing himself in mediæval costume playing the
+violoncello to his own family in light and airy dress. One would have
+thought that he would have clad his wife and daughters more fully than
+some of his famous beauties: on the contrary. The church, whose tower is
+detached, has been restored from time to time, and looks by no means
+lacking in funds. The carved parclose of stone and two altar-tombs to
+the Hanhams are the chief points of interest. There is a simple
+recumbent effigy of one of the Methuens, a little girl, which in its
+natural sleeping pose is strangely pathetic, even to those who know
+nothing of the story of her early death.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_037" id="ILL_037"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_037.jpg" width="400" height="303" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">CASTLE COMBE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Biddestone, above Corsham, has many good old houses round its village
+green. The little bell turret to the church is singular, but the eye is
+detracted by an ugly stove-pipe which sticks out of the roof close by.
+There is s<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>ome Roman work within, but the high box pews look out of
+keeping. About three miles to the north-west is Castle Combe, one of
+the sweetest villages in Wiltshire or in any other county. It is
+surrounded by hills and hanging woods, and lies deep down and hidden
+from view. As you descend, the banks on either side show glimpses, here
+and there; a grey gable peeping out of the dense foliage or grey
+cottages perched up high. Still downward, the road winds in the shade of
+lofty trees, then suddenly you find yourself looking down upon the
+quaint old market-cross, with the grey church tower peering over some
+ancient roofs. This presumably is the market-place,&mdash;not a busy one by
+any means, for beyond an aged inhabitant resting on the solid stone
+base, or perhaps a child or two climbing up and down the steps (for it
+is a splendid playground)&mdash;all is still. The village pump alongside the
+cross, truly, supplies occasional buckets of water for the various
+gabled stone cottages around, indeed (as is invariably the case when
+one's camera is in position) people seemed to spring up from nowhere,
+and the pump handle was exceptionally busy. The cross is richly
+sculptured with shields and roses at the base, and the shaft rises high
+above the picturesque old roof, which is supported by four moulded stone
+supports. Undoubtedly it is one of the most perfect fifteenth-century
+crosses in England. The road still winds downwards to a rushing stream
+crossed by a little bridge, and here there is a group of pretty cottages
+with prettier gardens abutt<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>ing on the road. We have seen these under
+very different aspects, in March with snow upon the creepers, and in
+October when the creepers were brilliant scarlet, and scarcely know
+which made the prettier picture. The sound of rushing water adds romance
+to this sweet village.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 304px;"><a name="ILL_038" id="ILL_038"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_038.jpg" width="304" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">YATTON KEYNELL MANOR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The ancient family of Scrope has been seated here for over five
+centuries and a half. The "Castle Inn" by the market-cross remains
+primitive in its arrangements, although the "tripping" season makes
+great demands upon its supplies. Though ordinarily quiet enough,
+occasionally there is a swarm, and a sudden demand of a hundred or so
+"teas" is enough to try the resources of any hostess. But it was too
+much for the poor lady here; her health was bad, and she would have to
+flee before another season came round. Strange to say, it is the
+slackness of business that usually sends folks away. The graceful
+fifteenth-century pinnacled and embattled tower of the church gives the
+ancient building a grand appearance. The church is rich in stained
+glass, containing the arms of the various lords of the manor.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 297px;"><a name="ILL_039" id="ILL_039"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_039.jpg" width="297" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">BULLICH MANOR-HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Yatton Keynell, a couple of miles eastwards, possesses a fine Jacobean
+manor-house, with a curious porch and very uncommon mullioned window.
+The wing to the right was demolished not many years ago,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> so that now a
+front of three gables is all that remains; and though it looks fairly
+capacious, there are but few rooms, the space being taken up with
+staircase (a fine one) and attics. The exterior of the church is good,
+but the interior is "as new as ninepence," saving a fine
+fifteenth-century stone rood-screen. The spiral staircase up to the
+summit has been cut through, which is a pity, as otherwise the organ
+would have been less conspicuous. The steps of the village cross now
+serve as a basement for the village inn.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_040" id="ILL_040"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_040.jpg" width="400" height="375" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SHELDON MANOR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The churches of Stanton St. Quinton and Kingston St. Michael have
+suffered internally as much as that of Yatton Keynell, and, alas! the
+fourteenth-century manor-house of the St. Quintons is now no more. An
+aged person working in the churchyard, though very proud that he had
+helped to pull it down, insisted on pointing out the "ould dov-cart"
+This may be pure "Wilshire," but until we saw the dovecot we did not
+grasp the meaning. Nearer Chippenham is Bullich House, which fortunately
+has been left in peace. Beside the entrance gate two queer little
+"gazebos" were covered with Virginia creeper in its bright autumn tints.
+The remains of the clear moat washed the garden wall, over which peeped
+the gables of the house with the waning red sunlight reflected in the
+casements&mdash;this was a picture to linger in one's memory; and there is
+no telling how far one's fancy might not have been led by speculating<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>
+upon the meaning of two grim heads which form pinnacles above the porch,
+had the stillness not been broken by the harsh sounds of the gramophone
+issuing from a neighbouring cottage! If Bullich possesses a ghost, as it
+ought to, judging by appearances, surely an up-to-date music-hall ditty
+should "lay" him in the moat in desperation.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_041" id="ILL_041"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_041.jpg" width="400" height="311" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SHELDON MANOR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>About a mile away on the western side of the main road from Chippenham
+to Yatton Keynell is Sheldon Manor, a charming old residence with a
+great Gothic porch like a church, and a Gothic window over it belonging
+to what is called the "Priest's chamber." Upon the gable end, over it,
+is one of those queer little box sundials one occasionally sees in
+Wiltshire. As you enter the porch the massive staircase faces you, with
+its picturesque newels and pendants, and the little carved oak gate,
+which was there to keep the dogs downstairs. In the wall to the right,
+just beyond the entrance door, is a curious stone trough of fair
+capacity. It is screened by a door, and exteriorly looks like a
+cupboard; but what was the use of this trough we are at a loss to
+conjecture, unless in old days the horses were a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>dmitted.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 373px;"><a name="ILL_042" id="ILL_042"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_042.jpg" width="373" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SOUTH WRAXALL MANOR-HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But two of the finest old houses in the county are certainly South
+Wraxall and Great Chaldfield, situated within a couple of miles from one
+another to the west of Melksham. The former has recently been converted
+from a farmhouse again into a mansion, and the latter is now undergoing
+careful restoration. Though the exterior of Great Chaldfield is
+unimpaired, and as perfect a specimen of an early fifteenth-century
+house as one could wish to see, sad havoc has been played inside. The
+great hall many years ago was so divided up that it was difficult to
+guess at its original proportions. The finest Gothic windows with
+groined roofs, ornamental bosses, and fireplaces, and carved oak beams,
+have long since been blocked up and their places filled with mean ones
+of the Georgian period or later. To fully comprehend the wholesale<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>
+obliteration of the original work, one has only to see the thousand bits
+of sculptured masonry laid out upon the lawn of the back garden. To
+place the pieces of the puzzle correctly together must be a task to try
+the knowledge and patience of the most expert in such matters, but piece
+by piece each is going into its proper place. The huge stone heads with
+scooped-out eyes, through which the ancient lord of the manor could
+watch what was going on below in the hall without being observed, once
+again will be reinstated. There are three of them, and the hollowed eyes
+have sharp edges, as if they were cut out only yesterday. Then there is
+an ungainly grinning figure of the fifteenth century, locally known as
+"Blue Beard," who within living memory has sat on the lawn in front of
+the mansion; but his proper place is up aloft on top of one of the gable
+ends, and there, of course, he will go, and, like Sister Ann, be able to
+survey the road to Broughton Gifford to see whether anybody is coming.
+Among the rooms now under course of repair is "Blue Beard's chamber,"
+and naturally enough the neighbouring children of the past generation
+(we do not speak of the present, for doubtless up-to-date education has
+made them far too knowing to treat such things seriously&mdash;the more's the
+pity) used to hold the house in holy dread. But there certainly is a
+creepy look about it, especially towards dusk, when the light of the
+western sky shines through the shell of a beautiful oriel window, and
+makes the monsters on the gable ends stand out while the front courtyard
+is wrapt in shade. The reed-grown moat gives the house a neglected and
+sombre look. The group of buildings, with curious little church with its
+crocketed bell turret on one side and a great barn on the other, is
+altogether remarkable. How it got the name of "Blue Beard's Castle" we
+could not learn. Recently a "priest's hole" has been discovered up
+against the ceiling in a corner of his chamber; but whether he concealed
+himself here or some of his wives we cannot say.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At the back of the manor there used to be a tumble-down old mill, which
+unfortunately is now no more. The little church contains a good stone
+screen (which has been removed from its original position), and some
+stained glass in the windows. The pulpit, a canopied two-decker, and the
+capacious high-backed pews (half a dozen at the most) have the
+appearance of a pocket place of worship. But Great Chaldfield is a
+parish by itself without a village; the congregation also is a pocket
+one.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_043" id="ILL_043"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_043.jpg" width="400" height="289" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SOUTH WRAXALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As before stated, South Wraxall manor-house is restored to all its
+ancient dignity; but somehow or other, though much care and money have
+been bestowed upon it, it seems to have lost half of its poetry, for the
+walls and gardens are now so trim and order<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>ly, that it is almost
+difficult to recognise it as the same when the gardens were weed-grown
+and the walls toned with lichen and moss. Moreover, the road has been
+diverted, so that now the fine old gatehouse stands not against the
+highway, but well within the boundary walls. Inside are some remarkably
+fine old rooms with linen panelling. The drawing-room has a superb stone
+sculptured mantelpiece, upon which are represented Prudentia,
+Arithmetica, Geometrica, and Justicia, and Pan occupies the middle
+pedestal supporting the frieze, while four larger figures support the
+mantel. The ceiling is coved, and ornamented with enormous pendants, and
+the cornice above the great bay mullioned-window is enriched with a
+curious design. A remarkable feature of the room is a three-sided
+projection of the wall, the upper part of which is panelled, having
+scooped-out niches for five seats, one in the middle and two on either
+side. The banqueting-room also is a typical room of Queen Elizabeth's
+time, and the "Guest chamber" is one of the many rooms in England which
+claim the honour of inhaling the first fumes from a tobacco-pipe in
+England. But Raleigh's pipe here is said to have been of solid silver;
+moreover, tradition does not state that it was so rudely extinguished as
+elsewhere, with a bucket of water: so, at any rate, here the story is
+more dignified. To settle definitely where Sir Walter smoked his first
+pipe would be as difficult a problem as to decide which was the mansion
+where the bride hid herself in the oak chest, or which was Ki<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>ng John's
+favourite hunting lodge.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="EASTERN_AND_SOUTHERN_SOMERSET" id="EASTERN_AND_SOUTHERN_SOMERSET">EASTERN AND SOUTHERN</a></h2>
+
+<h2>SOMERSET</h2>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 310px;"><a name="ILL_044" id="ILL_044"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_044.jpg" width="310" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">THE GEORGE, NORTON ST. PHILIP.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Somersetshire abounds in old-world villages, more particularly the
+eastern division, or rather the eastern side&mdash;to the east, say, of a
+line drawn from Bristol to Crewkerne. This line would intersect such
+famous historic places as Wells and Glastonbury, but in our limited
+space we must confine our attention more particularly to more remote
+spots. One of these, for example, is the village of Norton St. Philip,
+midway between Bath and Frome, which possesses one of the oldest and
+most picturesque inns in England. This wonderful timber building of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>
+projecting storeys dates mainly from the fifteenth century, although it
+has been a licensed house since 1397, and upon its solid basement of
+stone the "George" looks good for many centuries to come. It was
+formerly known as the "Old House," not that the other buildings at
+Norton St. Philip are by any means new. It is merely, comparatively
+speaking, a matter of a couple of hundred years or so.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_045" id="ILL_045"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_045.jpg" width="400" height="295" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">THE GEORGE, NORTON ST. PHILIP.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Many are the local stories and traditions of "Philips Norton Fight," for
+here it was that the Duke of Monmouth's followers had the first real
+experience of warfare; and the encounter with the Royalist soldiers was
+a sharp one while it lasted. Monmouth's intention of attacking Bristol
+had been abandoned, and during a halt at Norton on June 27, 1685, his
+little army was overtaken by the king's forces under the young Duke of
+Grafton, Monmouth's half-brother. The lane where fighting was briskest
+used to be remembered as "Monmouth Street," possibly the same steep and
+narrow lane now called Bloody Lane, which winds round to the back of the
+Manor Farm (some remains of which go back quite a century before
+Monmouth's time), through the courtyard of which the duke marched his
+regiment to attack the enemy in flank. The other end of the lane was
+barricaded, so Grafton was caught in a trap, and had difficulty in
+fighting his way through.</p>
+
+<p>Both armies sought protection of the high hedges, which, take it all
+round, got the wo<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>rst of it; but Grafton lost considerably more men than
+Monmouth, although a cannonade of six hours on both sides only had one
+victim. An old resident living fifty years ago, whose great-grandfather
+fought for "King Monmouth," used to relate how the duke's field pieces
+were planted by the "Old House," his grace's headquarters; and the
+tradition yet lingers in the inn that Colonel Holmes, on Monmouth's
+side, finished the amputation of his own arm, which was shattered with a
+shot, with a carving knife. Some of the ancient farmhouses between Bath
+and Frome preserve some story or another in connection with "Norton
+Fight," and George Roberts relates in his excellent Life of Monmouth
+that early in the nineteenth century the song was still sung:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">"The Duke of Monmouth is at Norton Town</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">All a fighting for the Crown</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 27em;">Ho-boys-ho."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>There are some curious old rooms in the "George"; and it is astonishing
+the amount of space that is occupied by the attics, the timbers of which
+are enormous. Up in these dimly lighted wastes, report says that a cloth
+fair was held three times a year; and one may see the shaft or well up
+which the cloth was hauled from a side entrance in the street. The fair
+survives in a very modified form on one of the dates, May 1<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>st. Upon
+the first floor, approached by a spiral stone staircase, is "Monmouth's
+room," the windows of which look up the road to Trowbridge. The open
+Tudor fireplace, the oaken beams and uneven floor, carries the mind back
+to the illustrious visitor who already was well aware that he was
+playing a losing game, and knew what he might expect from the
+unforgiving James. At the back of the old inn is the galleried yard, a
+very primitive one, now almost ruinous, with rooms, leading from the
+open corridors, tumbling to pieces, and floors unsafe to walk upon.
+Through the gaps may be seen the cellars below, containing three huge
+beer barrels, each of a thousand gallons' capacity. A fine stone
+fireplace in one will make a plunge below ere very long.</p>
+
+<p>But Somersetshire owns another remarkable fifteenth-century hostelry,
+the "George" at Glastonbury, in character entirely different from that
+at Norton St. Philip. The panelled and traceried Gothic stonework of the
+front, with its graceful bay-window rising to the roof, is perhaps more
+beautiful but not so quaint, nor has it that rugged vastness of the
+other which somehow impresses us with the rough-and-tumble hospitality
+of the Middle Ages. "Ye old Pilgrimme Inn," as the "George" at
+Glastonbury once was called, was built in Edward IV.'s reign, whose arms
+are displayed over the entrance gateway. Here is, or was, preserved the
+bedstead said to have been used by Henry VIII. when he paid a visit to
+the famous abbey.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_046" id="ILL_046"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_046.jpg" width="400" height="251" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">CHARTERHOUSE HINTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A mile or so before one gets to Norton, travelling up the main road from
+Frome, there is one of those exasperating signposts which are
+occasionally planted about the country. The road divides, and the sign
+points directly in the middle at a house between. It says "To Bath," and
+that is all; and people have to ask the way to that fashionable place at
+the aforesaid house. The inmate wearily came to the door. How many times
+had he been asked the same question! He was driven to desperation, and
+was going to invest in some black paint and a brush for his own as well
+as travellers' comfort. But how much worse when there is no habitation
+where to make inquiries! You are often led carefully up to a desolate
+spot, and then abandoned in the most heartless fashion. The road forks,
+and either there is no signpost, or the place you are nearing is not
+mentioned at all. Unless your intuitive perception is beyond the
+ordinary, you must either toss up for it, or sit down and wait
+peacefully until some one may chance to pass by.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_047" id="ILL_047"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_047.jpg" width="400" height="286" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">WELLOW MANOR-HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The church and manor-house of the pretty village of Wellow, above Norton
+to the north-west, are rich in oak carvings. The latter was one of the
+seats of the Hungerfords, and was built in the reign of Charles I. In
+the rubbish of the stable-yard, for it is now a farm, a friend of ours
+picked up a spur of seventeenth-century date, which probably had lain
+there since the Royalist soldiers were quartered upon their way to meet
+the Monmouth rebels. Another seat of the Hungerfords was Charterhouse
+Hinton Manor, to the east of Wellow, a delightful old ivy-clad dwelling,
+incorporated with the remains of a thirteenth-century priory. Corsham
+and Heytesbury also belonged to this important family; but their
+residence for over three centuries was the now ruinous castle of
+Farleigh, midway between Hinton and Norton to the east. These formidable
+walls and round towers, embowered in trees and surrounded by orchards,
+are romantically placed above a ravine whose beauty is somewhat marred
+by a factory down by the river. The entrance gatehouse is fairly
+perfect, but the clinging ivy obliterates its architectural details and
+the carved escutcheon over the doorway. But were it not for this natural
+protection the gatehouse would probably share the fate of one of the
+round towers of the northern court, whose ivy being removed some sixty
+years ago brought it down with a run. The castle chapel is full of
+interest, with frescoed walls and flooring of black and white marble.
+The magnificent m<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>onuments of the Hungerfords duly impress one with their
+importance. The recumbent effigies of the knights and dames, with the
+numerous shields of arms and their various quarterings, are quite
+suggestive of a corner in Westminster Abbey, though not so dark and
+dismal. Here lie the bodies of Sir Thomas, Sir Walter, and Sir Edward
+Hungerford, the first of whom fought at Crecy and the last on the
+Parliamentary side, when his fortress was held for the king, and
+surrendered in September 1645. His successor and namesake did his best
+to squander away his fortune of thirty thousand pounds a year. His
+numerous mansions were sold, including the castle, and his town house
+pulled down and converted into the market at Charing Cross, where his
+bewigged bust was set up in 1682. His son Edward, who predeceased him
+before he came to man's estate (or what was left of his father's),
+married the Lady Althea Compton, who was well endowed. In the letters
+preserved at Belvoir we learn that the union was without her sire's
+consent. "She went out with M<sup>is</sup> Grey," writes Lady Chaworth in one of
+her letters to Lord Roos, "as to a play, but went to Sir Edward
+Hungerford's, where a minister, a ring, and the confidents were wayting
+for them, and so young Hungerford maried her; after she writ to the
+Bishop of London to acquaint and excuse her to her father, upon which he
+sent a thundering command for her to come home that night which she did
+obey." A week later she made her escape. But the runaway couple were
+soon to be parted. Eight months passed, and she was dead; and the
+youthful widower survived only three years. Old Sir Edward lived
+sufficiently long to repent his extravagant habits, for he is said to
+have died in poverty at five score and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> fifteen!</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_048" id="ILL_048"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_048.jpg" width="400" height="262" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD HOUSE NEAR CROSCOMBE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Beckington, about four miles to the south of Farleigh, has another
+castle, but more a castle in name than anything else. It is a fine
+many-gabled house, by all appearances not older than the reign of James
+I. or perhaps Elizabeth. It is close against the road, and practically
+in the village, where are other lofty houses similar in character. There
+is an erroneous tradition that James II. slept here the night before the
+battle of Sedgemoor, regardless of the fact that his sacred Majesty was
+snug in London. The house was long neglected and deserted, and owing to
+stories of ghostly visitors and subterranean passages could not find a
+purchaser at £100! But this was many years ago, as will be seen from an
+advertisement quoted in an old number of <i>Notes and Queries</i>. Things are
+different now, for ghosts and subterranean passages have a marketable
+value.</p>
+
+<p>Somersetshire abounds in superstitions as well as in old-world villages.
+From the southern part of the cou<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span>nty come tales of people being
+bewitched, and it is a good thing for many an aged crone that their
+supposed offences are thought lightly of nowadays.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_049" id="ILL_049"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_049.jpg" width="400" height="297" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">BECKINGTON CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some five years ago a notorious "wise man" of Somerset, known as Dr.
+Stacey, fell down stairs and broke his neck. The doctor's clients
+doubtless had expected a more dignified ending to his career, for,
+judging from his powers of keeping evil or misfortune at arm's-length,
+it was a regular thing for people who had been "overlooked" to seek a
+consultation so as to get the upper hand of the evil influence. His
+patients were usually received at midnight, when incantations were held
+and mysterious powders burned. In most instances this was done where
+there had been continual losses in stock, or on farms where the cattle
+had fallen sick.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 323px;"><a name="ILL_050" id="ILL_050"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_050.jpg" width="323" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">CROSCOMBE CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A remarkable instance of credulity only the other day came from the East
+End of London, which, happening in the twentieth century, is too
+astonishing not to be recorded here. A young Jewess sought the aid of a
+Russian "wise woman" to bring the husband back who had deserted her. The
+process was a little complicated. Eighteen pennyworth of candles stuck
+all round with pins were burned. Pins also had to be sewn into the
+lady's garments, and some "clippings" from a black cat had to be burned
+in the fire. The cost of these mysterious charms altogether amounted to
+nearly six pounds, which was expensive considering the truant husband
+did not return. During some recent alterations to an old house near<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>
+Kilrush, Ireland, beneath the flooring was discovered a doll dressed
+to personify a woman against whom a former occupant owed a deadly
+grudge. It was stabbed through the breast with a dagger-shaped hairpin,
+which presumably it was hoped would bring about a more speedy death than
+the slower process of melting a diminutive waxen effigy.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_051" id="ILL_051"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_051.jpg" width="400" height="336" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">CROSCOMBE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Cases of ague in Somerset are said to succumb if a spider is captured
+and starved to death! Consumptives also are said to be cured by carrying
+them through a flock of sheep in the morning when the animals are first
+let out of the fold. It is said to bode good luck if, when drinking, a
+fly should drop into one's cup or glass. When this happens, we have
+somewhere heard, that a person's nationality may be discovered; but beer
+must be the liquid. A Spaniard leaves his drink and is mute. A Frenchman
+leaves it also untouched, but uses strong language. An Englishman pours
+the beer away and orders another glass. A German extracts the fly with
+his finger and finishes his beer. A Russian drinks the beer, fly and
+all. And a Chinaman fishes out the fly, swallows it, and throws away the
+beer.</p>
+
+<p>But enough of these peculiarities.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_052" id="ILL_052"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_052.jpg" width="400" height="317" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">LYTES CARY MANOR-HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the wooded vale between Shepton Mallet and Wells is a pretty
+straggling village of whitewashed houses with Tudor mullioned windows
+and, some of them, Tudor fireplaces within. This is Croscombe, which,
+like Crowcombe in western Somerset, has its village cross, but a
+mutilated one, and a church rich in Jacobean woodwork. The canopied
+pulpit, dated 1616, and the chancel screen, reaching almost to the roof,
+bearing the Royal arms, are perhaps the finest examples of the period to
+be found anywhere. An inn, once a priory, near the cross has panelled
+ceilings and other features of the fifteenth century. Some old cloth
+mills, with their emerald green mill-ponds, are one of the peculiarities
+of Croscombe. Shepton Mallet is depressing, perhaps because crape is
+manufactured there. A lonely old hostelry to the south of the town known
+as "Cannard's Grave," not a cheery sign under the most favourable
+circumstances, but with padlocked doors and windows boarded up as we saw
+it, had a forbidding look, and seemed to warrant the mysterious stories
+that are told about it. The cross in the market-place was erected in
+1500, but it has been too scraped and restored to classify it with those
+at Cheddar or Malmesbury. The church contains a fine oak roof and some
+ancient tombs, mainly to the Strodes, an important Somersetshire family
+with Republican tendencies, one of whom harboured the Duke of Monmouth
+in his house the night after his defeat at Sedgemoor. The remains of
+this house, "Downside," stand about a mile from Shepton Mallet, but it
+has been altered and restored from time to time, so that now it has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>
+lost much of its ancient appearance. The pistols which the duke left
+here remained in the possession of descendants until about eight years
+ago, when they were lost. Monmouth's host, Edward Strode, also owned
+what is now called "Monmouth House," from the fact that the duke slept
+there on June 23rd and 30th, 1685, upon his march from Bridgwater
+towards Bristol and back again. Monmouth's room may yet be seen, and not
+many years ago possessed its original furniture.<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_053" id="ILL_053"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_053.jpg" width="400" height="338" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">LYTES CARY MANOR-HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At Cannard's Grave we strike into the old Foss way, and if we follow it
+through West Lydford towards Ilchester we shall find on the left-hand
+side, a quarter of a mile or so from the road, Lytes Cary, one of the
+most compact little manor-houses in western England. But the fine old
+rooms are bare and almost ruinous. The arms of the Lytes occur in some
+shields of arms in the "decorated" chapel (which is now a cider cellar),
+and upon a projecting bay-window near a fine embattled and pierced
+parapet. The hall is entered from the entrance porch (over which is a
+graceful oriel), and has its timber roof and rich cornice intact. On the
+first floor is a spacious panelled room with Tudor bay-window (dated
+153<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>3) and open fireplace, which if carefully restored would make a
+delightful dwelling room; and it seems a thousand pities that this and
+other apartments dating from the fourteenth century should be in their
+present neglected state. The front of the manor-house reminds one of
+Great Chaldfield in Wiltshire, but on a smaller scale and exteriorly
+less elaborate in architectural detail.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_054" id="ILL_054"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_054.jpg" width="400" height="310" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">FIREPLACE, LYTES CARY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The eastern corner of the western division of Somerset is especially
+rich in picturesque old villages and mansions&mdash;that is to say, the
+country enclosed within or just beyond the four towns Langport,
+Somerton, Chard, and Yeovil. Within this area, or a mile or so beyond,
+we have the grand seats of Montacute, Brympton D'Eversy, Hinton St
+George, and Barrington Court; the smaller but equally interesting
+manor-houses of Sandford Orcas, South Petherton, and Tintinhull, and the
+quaint old villages and churches of Trent, Martock, Curry Rivel, etc.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 391px;"><a name="ILL_055" id="ILL_055"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_055.jpg" width="391" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">ANCIENT SCREEN. CURRY RIVEL CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The ancient county town of Somerton having been left severely alone by
+the railway, remains in a very dormant state, and, of course, is
+picturesque in proportion, as will be seen by its octagonal canopied
+market-c<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>ross and the group of buildings adjacent Langport lies low, and
+is uninviting, with marshy pools around, with to the north-west
+Bridgwater way the villages of Chedzoy, Middlezoy, and Weston Zoyland,
+full of memories of the fight at Sedgemoor. The church of Curry Rivel,
+to the west of Langport, has many ancient carvings, and retains its
+beautiful oak screen and bench-ends of the fifteenth century. Within its
+ancient ornamented ironwork railing is a curious Jacobean tomb,
+representing the recumbent effigies of two troopers, Marmaduke and
+Robert Jennings. It seems selfish that they should thus lie in state
+while their wives are kneeling below by two little cribs containing
+their children tucked up in orderly rows like mummified bambinoes. On
+the summit of a circular arch above, five painted cherubs are reclining
+at their ease, and chained to one of the iron railings is a little
+coffer which gives a touch of mystery to the whole. What does this
+little sealed coffer contain?&mdash;for it must have been in its present
+position since the monument was erected. Are the warriors' hearts
+therein, or the bones of the five bambinoes? There is another Jacobean
+tomb, just like a cumbrous cabinet of the period. It is hideous enough
+for anything, and obscures one of three interesting fourteenth-century
+mural monuments.</p>
+
+<p>In the old farmhouse of Burrow, near Curry Rivel, some swords and
+jack-boots of the time of Charles II.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> were preserved. They are now in
+the museum at Taunton, where we regret to say the buckle worn by the
+Duke of Monmouth, and Lord Feversham's dish are now no longer<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> with
+the other interesting relics of the fight at Sedgemoor.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_056" id="ILL_056"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_056.jpg" width="400" height="207" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">BARRINGTON COURT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At Barrington Court and White Lackington manor-house, both near
+Ilminster, Monmouth was entertained in princely state during his
+progress through the western counties to win popularity. The latter is a
+plain gabled house (a portion only of the original) which has suffered
+by the insertion of sash windows. It seems to bear out its name, for it
+is very white and staring. But Barrington is one of the most perfect
+Elizabethan houses in Somersetshire, that is to say exteriorly, for the
+inside has long since been stripped and modernised. The myriad of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>
+pinnacles upon its gable ends, and its general appearance, recall the
+stately Sussex mansion Wakehurst: the situation, however, is vastly
+different, for it stands bare of trees on a wide extensive flat. The
+Spekes of White Lackington and the Strodes of Barrington, it goes
+without saying, were notorious Whigs; and though the duke's hosts
+favoured his cause, they both managed to save their necks when the
+terrible Jeffreys came down upon his memorable Progress. But the name of
+Speke was enough for the judge, and the youngest son of White
+Lackington, whose sins did not extend beyond shaking hands with his
+father's illustrious guest, was swung up on a tree at Ilminster. In
+the lovely fields around the manor-house it is difficult to imagine a
+throng of twenty thousand who accompanied the popular duke. The giant
+Spanish chestnut tree beneath which Monmouth dined in public, and which
+had braved the tempests of many centuries, fell, alas! a victim to the
+storm of March, 2, 1897, and with the destruction of "Monmouth's tree" a
+link with 1680 has departed never to return. Barrington, we understand,
+has recently been taken under the protecting wing of the Society for the
+Preservation of Ancient Buildings, for which all those interested in
+domestic architecture as well as buildings of historic association must
+feel grateful.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_057" id="ILL_057"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_057.jpg" width="400" height="301" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">HINTON ST. GEORGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The little town of South Petherton, midway between Ilminster and
+Ilchester, is full of old nooks and c<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>orners, from its ancient cruciform
+church to the old hostelry in the High Street. From a very early date it
+was a place of great importance; but since the days of the Saxon monarch
+who resided there, the Daubeneys have stamped their identity upon King
+Ina's palace, of which there are picturesque Tudor remains incorporated
+in a modern dwelling, which to our mind has robbed it of the poetry it
+possessed when in a ruinous condition. The villages of Martock above and
+Hinton St George below are also full of interest; and both possess
+their ancient market-crosses, but now curtailed and converted into
+sundials with stone-step massive bases. But the glory of Martock is its
+grand old church (where Fairfax and Cromwell offered up a prayer for the
+capture of Bridgwater in 1645), whose carved black oak roof is one of
+the finest in the west of England.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> The ancient seat of the Pouletts
+is an extensive but by no means beautiful house. It has a squat
+appearance, being only two storeys high, with battlemented towers at the
+angles and Georgian and Victorian Gothic sash-windows; but on the
+southern side, a pierced parapet and classic windows give it a less
+barrack-like appearance. Sir Amias Poulett (or Paulet, as it was
+formerly spelled), the grandson of the builder of the house, who won his
+spurs at the battle of Newark-on-Trent, is principally famous from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>
+fact that he put Wolsey in the stocks when that great person held the
+living of Lymington, and upon one occasion took more than was good for
+him. But the cardinal afterwards had his revenge, and put fine upon Sir
+Amias to build the gate of the Middle Temple, which formerly bore the
+prelate's arms elaborately carved, as a peace-offering from Sir Amias.
+Lymington in Hampshire is often associated with the stocks' episode, but
+Lymington near Ilchester, and some ten miles from Hinton, was the place.
+Sir Amias had the custody of Mary Queen of Scots during the latter part
+of her long imprisonment, and to him the "Good Queen"&nbsp;(?) more
+than hinted that it would be a kindness to hasten her victim's end by
+private assassination. Paulet, however, had a conscience, so Elizabeth
+had to take upon herself the responsibility of Mary's execution.</p>
+
+<p>The historic stocks of Lymington are now no more, but beneath a big elm
+tree on the village green at Tintinhull, close by, they still are
+flourishing. Tintinhull, like Trent and other neighbouring villages, is
+full of picturesque old houses, sturdy stone Jacobean and Tudor
+cottages, with garden borderings of slabs of stone set up edgeways, and
+slabs of stone running along the footway in a delightfully primitive
+fashion. Tintinhull Court is a stately old pile dating from the reign of
+Henry VIII. Its oldest side faces the garden, but the main front is a
+good type of the seventeenth century. We will not repeat here the
+particulars of Charles II.'s concealment at the old seat of the Wyndhams
+after the battle of Worcester;<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> but on the spot, and though the
+greater part of the house has been rebuilt, one may realise the
+incidents in that romantic episode, for the village of Trent to-day is
+much the same as the village of 1651.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_058" id="ILL_058"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_058.jpg" width="400" height="298" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SANDFORD ORCAS MANOR-HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The manor-house of Sandford Orcas, to the north-east of Trent (which by
+the way now belongs to Dorset), is quite a gem of early-Elizabethan
+architecture, with crests upon the gable ends, and the Tudor and Knoyle
+arms and graceful panels upon the warm-coloured walls of Ham Hill stone.
+Though a small house, it has its great hall with carved oak screen; and
+most of the rooms are panelled, and have their original fireplaces. The
+wide arched Tudor gateway spanning the road bears the arms of the
+Knoyles, a monument to whom may be seen in the south aisle of the church
+close by, the tower of which rises picturesquely above the gabled roof
+of the manor-house. The village, the little there is of it, is buried in
+orchards, between which the mill-stream winds, the haunt of a colony of
+quacking ducks whose noisy gossip makes up for the paucity of
+inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>Some eight miles away, on the other side of Yeovil, there is a
+manor-house, which for picturesqueness must take the palm of even
+Sandford Orcas. This is Brympton D'Eversy, a remarkable mixture of the
+domestic architecture of the fifteenth, sixteenth, and seventeenth
+centuries. One would think that the various styles would not harmonise,
+but they do in a remarkable degree. Add to these the styles of the
+thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, which are conspicuous in portions
+of the adjacent church, and there is <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>indeed a field from which to study.
+The northern front of the mansion, with its embattled Gothic bays and
+rows of latticed windows, is flanked by the quaint little turreted
+church, and together they form a most striking group not only in
+outline, but attractive in colour, for grey-green lichens and the
+peculiar rusty tint of stone blend in perfect sympathy. Picture this
+house and church in crude white stone, unmellowed and toned by time, and
+half its charm would be gone. Does not this open up a question worth
+consideration? A modern house is built with conscientious exactitude in
+imitation of some beautiful existing example of Gothic or Renaissance
+architecture. Every detail is perfect, but the result is harsh and new.
+One must wait almost a lifetime before it makes a picture really
+pleasing to the eye. Therefore why not take some measures to tone down
+the staring stone or obtrusive red-brick before the masonry is
+constructed? True, there are a few exceptions where additions have been
+made to ancient houses, which cannot be detected; but in the case of an
+entirely new house, does it often occur to the builder how much more
+pleasing would be the result if the exterior of his house were more in
+harmony with the old oak fittings and ancient furniture with which it is
+his ambition to fill it? Would that all such houses were built of Ham
+Hill stone, for it has the peculiarity of imparting a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>ge much more
+rapidly than any other.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_059" id="ILL_059"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_059.jpg" width="400" height="293" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">MONTACUTE HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is this that gives so venerable an appearance to Montacute House;
+for, compared with many mansions coeval with it, the ancestral seat of
+the Phelips family looks quite double the age. The imposing height of
+Montacute as compared, for instance, with Hinton St. George, gives it
+stateliness and grandeur, while the other has none. Like Hardwick, the
+front of the house is one mass of windows; but it has not that formal
+spare appearance, for here there are rounded gables to break the
+outline. In niches between the windows and over the central gable stand
+the stone representations of such varied celebrities as Charlemagne,
+King Arthur, Pompey, Cæsar, Alexander the Great, Moses, Joshua, Godfrey
+de Bouillon, and Judas Maccabeus. They look down upon a trim old garden
+walled in by a balustraded and pinnacled enclosure, with Moorish-like
+pavilions or music-rooms at the corners. As a specimen of elaborate
+Elizabethan architecture within and without, Montacute is unique. In
+Nash's <i>Mansions</i> there is a drawing of the western front, which is
+still more elaborate in detail, and is earlier in date than the rest of
+the house; and this may be accounted for as it was added when Clifton
+Maybank (another house of the Phelips') was dismantled many years ago.
+But of this old house there are yet some interesting remains.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> Inside
+there is a similarity also to Hardwick with its wide stone <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>staircase and
+its ornamental Elizabethan doorways and fireplaces. The hospitality in
+the good old days was in keeping with the lordly appearance of the
+mansion. Over the entrance may still be read the cheery greeting:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">"Through this wide opening gate,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">None come too early, none return too late."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>But in these degenerate days the odds are that advantage would be taken
+of such hospitality; and one marvels at the open-handed generosity such
+as existed at old Bramall Hall in Cheshire, where the common road led
+right through the squire's great hall,<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> where there was always kept a
+plentiful supply of strong ale to cheer the traveller on his way. There
+can have been but few tramps in those days, or they must have been far
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>more modest than they are to-day.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_060" id="ILL_060"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_061.jpg" width="400" height="393" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">MONTACUTE PRIORY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Montacute Priory, near the village, has a fine Perpendicular tower and
+other picturesque remains. To see it at its best, one should visit the
+village late in autumn, when the Virginia creeper, which covers the
+ancient walls, has turned to brilliant red. Other buildings under
+similar conditions may look as lovely, but we can recollect nothing to
+equal this old farmstead in its clinging robes of gold and scarlet.</p>
+
+<p>There are many interesting old inns in this part of Somersetshire,
+notably in the town of Yeovil, where the "George" and "Angel" are
+<i>vis-à-vis</i>, and can compare notes as to whose recollections go back the
+farthest. The wide open fireplaces and mullioned windows of the former
+are of the time of Elizabeth or earlier, but the stone Gothic arched
+doorway and traceried windows of the latter can go a century better. But
+important as they both have been in their day, neither has had the luck
+or energy to keep pace with the times sufficiently to hold younger
+generations of inns subservient. The old "Green Dragon" at Combe St.
+Nicholas, near Ilminster, possessed a remarkable carved oak settle in
+its bar-parlour. It was elaborately carved, the back being lined with
+the graceful linen-fold panels. At the arm or corner were two figures,
+one suspended over the other, the upper one representing a bishop in the
+act of prea<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>ching. They were known as "the parson and clerk"; but when we
+saw the settle the "parson" was missing, having mysteriously disappeared
+some time before. The "clerk" was so worn out, having occupied his post
+so for centuries, that his features were scarcely recognisable; but who
+can wonder when he had been preached to for close upon four hundred
+years! To be "overlooked" in remote parts of Somersetshire means certain
+misfortune. Many a poor unoffending old woman, suspected of
+"overlooking" people, has been knocked on the head that her blood might
+be "drawn" to counteract the spell. Probably the parson's attitude
+aroused suspicion, and he was quietly put away; but as his head had not
+been broken neither had the spell, and the last we heard of the "Green
+Dragon" was that it had been burnt down.</p>
+
+<p>The old landlady we remember had a firm belief that the death of one of
+her sons was foretold by a death's-head moth flying in at the window and
+settling on his forehead when he was asleep in his cradle. The child, a
+beautiful boy, then in perfect health, was doomed, and her eldest son
+immediately set forth with his gun to shoot the first bird he chanced to
+see, to break the spell. However, that night the child died; and upon
+the wall in a glass case was the stuffed bird as well as the moth, a
+melancholy memento of the tragedy of thirty years ago.</p>
+<hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="IN_WESTERN_SOMERSET" id="IN_WESTERN_SOMERSET">IN WESTERN SOMERSET</a></h2>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p>
+<p>Some of the prettiest nooks of old-world "Zoomerzet" are to be found
+under the lovely heather-clad Quantock Hills. The beauty of the scenery
+has inspired Coleridge, Wordsworth, and many famous men, not the least
+of whom was poor Richard Jeffreys, who has written sympathetically of
+the delightful vale to the west of the range.</p>
+
+<p>To the north and north-west of Taunton the churches of Kingston and
+Bishop's Lydeard are both remarkable for their graceful early-Tudor
+towers. Of the two, the former is the finer specimen of Perpendicular
+work, the soft salmon-yellow colour of the Ham stone being particularly
+pleasing to the eye. The situation of the church is fine, commanding
+grand views; and at the intersection of the roads to Asholt and
+Bridgwater one gets a glorious prospect of Taunton and the blue
+Blackdown Hills beyond on one side, and on the other the sea and the
+distant Welsh mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Both churches have good bench-ends full four hundred years old, the
+designs upon them being as clearly cut as if they had been executed only
+a few years ago. One of them at Bishop's Lydeard represents a windmill,
+from which we gather that those useful structures were much the same as
+those with which we are familiar to-day.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_061" id="ILL_061"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_061.jpg" width="400" height="393" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">CROWCOMBE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At Cothelstone to the north, approached by a romantic winding road
+embosomed in lofty beech trees which dip suddenly down into a
+picturesque dell, the church and manor-house nestle cosily together,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>
+surrounded by hills and hanging woods. It is a typical Jacobean
+manor-house of stone, with ball-surmounted gables and heavy mullioned
+windows, approached from the road through an imposing archway, with a
+gatehouse beyond containing curious little niches and windows. In the
+gardens an old banqueting-room and ruined summer-house complete the
+picturesque group of buildings. The church has some fine tombs. One of
+the lords of the earlier manor-house reclines full length in Edwardian
+armour, his gauntleted hands bearing a remarkable resemblance to a pair
+of boxing-gloves. A descendant, Sir John Stawel, who fought valiantly
+for Charles in the Civil War, lies also in the church. For his loyalty
+his house was ruined and his estate sold by the Parliament, but his son
+was made a peer by the Merry Monarch in acknowledgment of his father's
+services. "The Lodge," an old landmark at Cothelstone, can boast a view
+of no less than fourteen counties, and from a gap in the Blackdown
+Hills, Halsdown by Exeter may be seen, while close at hand Will's Neck
+looms dark against the sky.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 389px;"><a name="ILL_062" id="ILL_062"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_062.jpg" width="389" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">OLD HOUSE, CROWCOMBE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Beneath the rolling Quantocks the road runs seawards, and at Crowcombe,
+embowered in woods, brings us to another picturesque group: the church
+on one side and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>a dilapidated Tudor building on the other. It is called
+the "Church House," and, alas! by its ruinous condition one may judge
+its days are numbered, although its solid timber Gothic roof, now open
+to the sky, looks still good for a couple of centuries more. A crazy
+flight of stone steps leads to the upper storey, or rather what remains
+of it, the floor boards having long since disappeared. In the basement,
+nature has asserted itself, and weeds and brambles are growing in
+profusion. This lower part of the building was once used as almshouses,
+the Tudor-headed doors leading into the several apartments. The upper
+storey was the schoolroom, and had a distinct landlord from the
+basement. Difficulties consequently arose; for when the owner of the
+schoolroom suggested restorations to the roof, the proprietor of the
+almshouses declined to participate in the expense, declaring that it was
+his intention to pull his portion of the building down! A more
+striking example of a house divided against itself could not be found,
+hence the forlorn condition of the joint establishment of youth and age.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_063" id="ILL_063"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_063.jpg" width="400" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">CROWCOMBE CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There are fine carved bench-ends in the church, one bearing the date
+1534 in Roman figures. Upon another is represented two men in desperate
+combat with a double-headed dr<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>agon. In the churchyard there is a cross,
+and facing the village street another, the cross complete, which is
+exceptional.</p>
+
+<p>Crowcombe Court, a stately red-brick house of the latter part of the
+seventeenth century, has replaced the older seat of the Carews. Among
+the fine collection of Vandycks is a full-length of Charles I. and his
+queen, given by the second Charles to the family in acknowledgment of
+their loyalty. Queen Henrietta looks prettier here than in many of her
+portraits. There is also a fine Vandyck of James Stuart, Duke of
+Richmond, and of Lady Herbert, and some of Lely's beauties, including
+Nell Gwynn and the Countess of Falmouth, whose buxom face recalls some
+of de Gramont's liveliest pages.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles to the east of Crowcombe, on the other side of the range of
+hills, is the moated castle of Enmore, whose ponderous drawbridge can
+still be raised and lowered like that at Helmingham. It is a formidable
+barrack-like building of red stone, not of any great antiquity. In the
+earlier structure lived Elizabeth Malet, the handsome young heiress with
+whom the madcap Earl of Rochester ran away. Pepys on May 28, 1665,
+relates "a story of my Lord Rochester's running away on Friday night
+last with Mrs. Mallett, the great beauty of fortune and the north, who
+had supped at Whitehall with Mrs. Stewart, and was going home to her
+lodgings with her grandfather my Lord Haly [Hawley] by coach; and was at
+Charing Cross seized on by both horse and foot men, and forcibly ta<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>ken
+from him and put into a coach with six horses, and two women provided to
+receive her, and carried away. Upon immediate pursuit, my Lord of
+Rochester (for whom the king had spoken to the lady often, but with no
+success) was taken at Uxbridge; but the lady is not yet heard of, and
+the king mighty angry, and the lord sent to the Tower." As may be
+supposed, with so flighty a husband the pair did not live happily ever
+after.<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Enmore estate passed to Anne, the eldest of their three daughters,
+who married a Baynton of Spye Park near Melksham, where memories of the
+profligate earl linger, as they do at Adderbury.</p>
+
+<p>The famous "Abode" at Spaxton, as impenetrable as Enmore although it has
+no drawbridge, is close at hand. An adjacent hill, locally said to be a
+short cut to heaven, commands a superb view of the surrounding country.
+The original founder of the sect could scarcely have found a prettier
+nook in England.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles to the north-west of Crowcombe is the picturesque village of
+Monksilver, the church of which is rich in oak carvings of the fifteenth
+century. The pulpit and bench-ends are particularly fine, but the screen
+has been much m<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>utilated. There are some grotesque gargoyles, one
+representing a large-mouthed gentleman having his teeth extracted.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_064" id="ILL_064"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_064.jpg" width="400" height="324" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">COMBE SYDENHAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Near Monksilver is the old seat of the Sydenhams, Combe Sydenham, a fine
+old mansion, whose lofty square tower is un-English in appearance. The
+house was built by Sir George Sydenham in 1580, who is locally said
+still to have an unpleasant way of galloping down the glen at midnight.
+Perhaps he is uneasy in his mind about the huge cannon-ball in the hall,
+which he is said to have fired as a sign to his lady-love that he was
+going to follow after and claim her as his bride. There are portraits of
+some bewigged Sydenhams of the following century, the famous doctor,
+perchance, and his soldier brother, Colonel William the Parliamentarian.
+Some rusty old swords hang on the walls, and there is a curious painted
+screen of Charles II.'s time which is sadly in need of repairs. The
+servants' hall, with its open fireplace and tall-backed settle, remains
+much as it has been for two hundred years or more. All these things
+point to the fact that the same family has been in possession for
+generations: at least it was owned by a Sydenham not so many ye<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span>ars ago.
+An effigy of Sir George with his two wives (perhaps this is the cause of
+his uneasiness) may be seen in Stogumber church, about a mile away.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_065" id="ILL_065"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_065.jpg" width="400" height="314" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">COMBE SYDENHAM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At the back of Combe Sydenham are the remains of an old mill. The wheel
+has disappeared, and the waterfall splashing in the streamlet below,
+together with an ancient barn adjacent, form a delightful picture.</p>
+
+<p>To the west is Nettlecombe, a fine old gabled house, dating from the
+latter part of Elizabeth's reign, containing ancestral portraits of the
+Trevelyans and some curious relics, among which is a miniature of
+Charles the martyr worked in his own hair. The estate belonged
+originally to the Raleighs, whose name is retained in Raleigh Down and
+Raleigh's Cross by Brendon Hill.</p>
+
+<p>Elworthy church, to the south-east, commands a fine position, and boasts
+a painted screen bearing the date 1632 and some carved bench-ends. But
+the churchyard looked sadly neglected and weed-grown. The great limb of
+a huge yew tree overhangs the stocks, which we are grateful to observe
+have been restored, and not allowed to decay as those at Crowcombe.</p>
+
+<p>From here we went farther to the south-east in sea<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>rch of a place locally
+called "Golden Farm," or properly Gaulden, where, depicted on a plaster
+ceiling of ancient date, are various scenes from biblical history, from
+the temptation of Adam downwards. Now, whether the good gentleman who
+rents the farm has been besieged by classes for the young anxious to
+learn on the Kindergarten system, or whether the arms of the Turberville
+family that figure upon a mantelpiece has connected the house with a
+certain well-known novel and brought about an American invasion, the
+fact remains that his equanimity has evidently become disturbed. His
+door was closed, and he was proud that he could boast that he had turned
+people away who had come expressly across the Atlantic! Sadly we turned
+away, but with inward congratulations that we had not come quite so far,
+when, lo! the worthy farmer showed signs of relenting. We might come in
+for half a guinea, he said condescendingly. We thanked him kindly and
+declined, observing that the fee at Windsor Castle was more than ten
+times less. 'Tis little wonder that they call it "Golden Farm."</p>
+
+<p>Equidistant from Monksilver to the north-west is Old Cleeve, a pretty
+little village near the coast, whose ruined Cistercian abbey has nooks
+and corners to delight the artist or antiquarian. The grey old<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>
+gatehouse, with a little stream close by, make a delightful picture,
+indeed from every point of view the ancient walls and arches, with their
+farmyard surroundings, form picturesque groups. In one of the walls is a
+huge circular window: the rose window of the sacristy that has lost its
+tracery. Viewed from the interior, the round picture of blue sky and
+meadows gay with buttercups makes a striking contrast with the deep
+shadow within the cold grey walls. A flight of stone steps leads to the
+refectory, whose rounded carved oak roof and projecting figure ornaments
+and bosses are in excellent preservation. There is a great open
+fireplace and the tracery in the windows is intact. A painting in
+distemper on the farther wall represents the Crucifixion, and as far as
+artistic merit is concerned better by far than the colossal figure
+conspicuous in the Roman Catholic cathedral at Westminster.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_066" id="ILL_066"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_066.jpg" width="400" height="302" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">DUNSTER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The road from here to Dunster is delightful, and as you approach the
+quaint old town&mdash;for it is a town, difficult as it is to believe it&mdash;the
+castle stands high up on the left embosomed in trees, a real fairy-tale
+sort of fortress it appears, with a watch-tower perched up on another
+wooded hill to balance it. The Luttrells have lived here for centuries,
+and during the Civil War it was for long a Royalist stronghold, held by
+Colonel Wyndham, the governor. The gallant colonel's spirited answer to
+the threat of the Parliam<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>entarians to place his aged mother in their
+front ranks to receive the fury of his cannon should he refuse to
+deliver up the castle, is a fine example of loyalty. "If ye doe what you
+threaten," he said, "you doe the most barbarous and villanous act was
+ever done. My mother I honour, but the cause I fight for and the masters
+I serve, are God and the King. Mother, doe you forgive me and give me
+your blessing, and tell the rebells answer for spilling that blood of
+yours which I would save with the loss of mine own, if I had enough for
+both my master and your selfe." But fortunately matters did not come to
+a climax, for Lord Wentworth appeared upon the scene with a strong force
+and relieved the beleaguered garrison. The loyalty of old Lady Wyndham
+and her son was further put to the test a few years afterwards when
+young King Charles lay concealed in their house at Trent near
+Sherborne.<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a></p>
+
+<p>Within the castle there is a curious hiding-place which carries us back
+to those troublous times. Local tradition has connected it in error with
+the visit of the second Charles, whose room is still pointed out; but
+the king was then not a fugitive, otherwise doubtless this secret
+chamber would have proved as useful to him as that at Trent House in
+1651.</p>
+
+<p>The main street of Dunster, with its irregular outline of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span>houses
+climbing up a hill, and the quaintest old market-house at the top backed
+by a dense maze of foliage beyond, is exceedingly picturesque. Judging
+from the hole made by a cannon-ball from the castle in one of the oaken
+beams of this remarkable "yarn market," poor Lady Wyndham had a lucky
+escape. The marvel is the old structure has remained until now in so
+delightful an unrestored condition. It has the colour which age alone
+can impart, a red purple-grey which, contrasted with the background as
+we saw it of laburnum and may, formed a picture long to be remembered.
+The old inn, the "Luttrell Arms," has many points of interest&mdash;some fine
+fifteenth-century woodwork, in the courtyard, a carved ceiling, and a
+rich Elizabethan fireplace; but doubtless from the fact that the
+landlord gets too many inquiries about these things, he is tardy in
+showing them. The church has one of the finest carved oak screens of
+Henry VI.'s reign in England, which to our mind looks much better in its
+unpainted state. One has but to go to Carhampton, close by, to make a
+comparison. The paint may be in excellent taste, and like it was
+originally; but when the original paint has gone, is it not best to
+leave the woodwork plain? Under these conditions the screen at least
+looks old, but the fine screen at Carhampton does not. A smaller
+screen in the transept of Dunster church presents yet more bold and
+beautiful design in the carving; and about this and the ancient tombs
+and altar, the bright and intelligent old lady who <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>shows one round has a
+fund of information to impart. She is very proud, and naturally so, of
+the interesting building under her charge. Up a side street is the
+nunnery with its slate-hung front: a lofty, curious building some three
+centuries old or more.</p>
+
+<p>Minehead Church is equally interesting. It stands high up overlooking
+the sea, and commands a magnificent prospect of the hanging-woods of
+Dunster and the heights of Dunkery. The rood-screen is good, but has
+been mutilated in parts. The ancient oak coffer is remarkable for the
+bold relief of its carving, representing the arms of Fitz-James
+quartered with Turberville as it occurs in Bere Regis church.</p>
+
+<p>There is a fine recumbent effigy of a man in robes, said to be a famous
+lawyer named Bracton, although he has much the appearance of a cleric.
+Whether it was considered conclusive proof that the person interred was
+a lawyer from the fact that on being opened the skull revealed a double
+row of upper teeth, we do not know, but there are other evidences. A
+victim of insomnia is said to resemble a lawyer, because he lies on one
+side then turns round and lies on the other; and this is precisely what
+this effigy did. We had the good fortune to fall in with the organist of
+St. Michael, and he declared that he had taken a photograph of the
+worthy in which the figure had <i>changed its position</i>, the head being
+where the feet should be&mdash;everything else in the picture being precisely
+in its right position!</p>
+
+<p>In the church is one of those quaint little figures which in former
+years was worked by the clock "Jack-smite-the-clock," of which there are
+examples at Southwold, Blythborough, etc. The former rector held the
+living for seventy years, and some trouble was caused because he had
+willed that some of the ancient parish documents were to be interred
+with him robed in his Geneva gown. It is said his wish was duly carried
+out, but the papers were afterwards rescued.</p>
+
+<p>Bossington, on the coast to the north-west of Porlock, is a delightful
+little village, lying at the foot of the great heather-clad hills. The
+rushing stream and the moss and lichen everywhere add much to its
+picturesqueness, but we should imagine there is too much shade and damp
+to be enjoyable in the winter. In the middle of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span>the narrow road stands a
+very ancient walnut tree with twisted limbs and roots, one of many
+walnut trees in the village. There are cosy ancient thatched cottages
+in Porlock, and the "Ship Inn," with its panelled walls, is the most
+inviting of hostelries, but the popular novel <i>Lorna Doone</i> has rather
+spoiled the primitive aspect of the place by introducing some buildings
+out of keeping with the rest.</p>
+
+<p>The weary traveller has a great treat in store, for the view from the
+top of Porlock Hill is remarkable. But it is well worth the climb, and
+by the old road it is indeed a clim<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>b! When we were there it was a misty
+day in June, and we never remember so remarkable a prospect as from the
+summit. The brilliant gorse stood out against the varying shades of
+green and purple of the moorland, and below all that could be seen was
+one solid mass of snow-white cloud, the outline of which was sharply
+defined against a distant glimpse of the soft blue sea and the deep blue
+Glamorganshire hills, looking wonderfully like a glacier-field. Next
+morning came the news that in the mist the warship <i>Montagu</i> had run on
+the rocks by Lundy.</p>
+
+<p>The romantic scenery of Lynmouth and Lynton is too well known to call
+for any particular description here. Little wonder that one sees so many
+honeymoon couples wandering everywhere about the lovely lanes. Lovers of
+old oak, too, will find all that they desire at Lynmouth, for here is
+the most tempting antique repository, calculated to make tourist
+collectors of Chippendale and oak wish they had economised more in their
+hotel bills. Motor cars sail easily down into the valley from Porlock,
+but a sudden twist in the steep ascent to Lynton causes many a snort and
+groan accompanied by an extra scent of petrol.</p>
+
+<p>But we have overstepped the county line and are in Devon.</p>
+<hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="IN_DEVON_AND_DORSET" id="IN_DEVON_AND_DORSET">IN DEVON AND DORSET</a></h2>
+
+<p>Those who have never been to Clovelly can have no idea of its
+quaintness, no matter what descriptions they have read or pictures they
+may have seen. One goes there expecting to find the little place exactly
+as he imagines it to be, and is agreeably surprised to find it is quite
+different. It is so unlike any other place, that one looks back at it
+more as a dream than a real recollection. We do not hint that the
+everlasting climb up and down may be likened to a nightmare. Not a bit
+of it. Though we gasp and sink with fatigue, we have still breath enough
+left in our body to sing in praise. Were the steps more steep and less
+rambling, perhaps we should not be so satisfied. What excellent exercise
+for muscular-leg development. But how about the older part of the
+inhabitants?</p>
+
+<p>We had the honour to converse with the olde<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>st Clovellian, a hale and
+hearty fisherman, who, by no means tardy in introducing himself,
+promptly proceeded to business. For twopence we might take his
+photograph. We thanked him kindly, and having disbursed that sum
+reserved our plates for inanimate curiosities.</p>
+
+<p>It is gratifying to learn that there is no room for "improvement" at
+Clovelly, and there are fewer houses than there used to be.
+Consequently there is nothing new and out of harmony. The cottages are
+really old and quaint, not as we expected to find them, imitations, like
+half the houses in Chester.</p>
+
+<p>Even the "New Inn" is delightfully old, with queer little rooms and
+corners, and little weather-cock figures above the sign, of the time of
+Nelson. It is a novel experience to arrive there in the dusk and walk&nbsp;(?)
+down the High Street to the sea. The most temperate will
+stumble and roll about as if he had sampled the cellar through, and ten
+to one but he doesn't finally take an unexpected header into the sea.</p>
+
+<p>But granted he reaches the end of the little pier (which projects after
+the fashion of the "Cobb" at Lyme Regis), he will find a hundred lights
+from the cottages as if lanterns were hung on the hillside, their long
+reflections rippling in the water.</p>
+
+<p>The place is as much a surprise as ever in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>broad daylight. One might be
+in Spain or Italy. Donkeys travel up and down the weed-grown cobble
+steps carrying projecting loads balanced on their backs. Indeed, one is
+quite surprised to hear the people speaking English, or rather
+Devonshire, the prettiest dialect. In the daylight the little
+balconied-houses overhanging the sea look more like pigeon-cots nailed
+to the steep rock, and one almost wonders how the inhabitants can get
+in. Long may Clovelly remain as it is now, the quaintest little place in
+England!</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_067" id="ILL_067"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_067.jpg" width="400" height="385" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">CEILING IN THE GOLDEN LION, BARNSTAPLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The town of Barnstaple is an excellent centre for exploration, and the
+antiquity of the "Golden Lion" is a guarantee of comfort. It was a
+mansion of the Earls of Bath, and upon a richly moulded ceiling, with
+enormous pendants of the date of James the First, are depicted biblical
+subjects, including the whole contents of the Ark, or a good proportion
+of it. The spire of the church of SS. Peter and Paul looks quite as out
+of the perpendicular as the spire at Chesterfield. There are some good
+Jacobean tombs, but nothing else in particular.</p>
+
+<p>The aged inmates of the almshouses point out the bullet-marks in their
+oaken door, made when the Royalists fortified the town in 1645. Lord
+Clarendon, who was governor of the town, tell<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>s us that here it was
+Prince Charles first received the fatal news of the battle of Naseby.
+The prince had been sent to Barnstaple for security. The house he lodged
+at in the High Street was formerly pointed out, but has disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>The poet Gay was a native of the town, and early in the nineteenth
+century some of his manuscripts were discovered in the secret drawer of
+an old oak chair that had passed from a kinsman on to a dealer in
+antiques who lived in the High Street.</p>
+
+<p>Close to the town is Pilton, whose church is full of interest. The
+carved oak hood of the prior's chair, which dates from Henry VII.'s
+reign, serves the purpose now to support the cover of the font. At the
+side may be seen an iron staple to which in former years the Bible was
+chained. From the fine Gothic stone pulpit projects a painted metal arm
+and hand which holds a Jacobean hour-glass. The screen and parclose
+screen are also good, and the communion rails and table in the vestry
+are of Elizabethan date. The church pewter is also worth notice, as well
+as an old pitch pipe for starting the choir. The porch bears evidence
+that the tower was roughly handled when Fairfax captured Barnstaple in
+1646. The existing tower was built fifty years later.</p>
+
+<p>Nowhere have we seen so<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> fine and perfect a collection of carved oak
+benches as at Braunton, a few miles to the north-west of Pilton. They
+are as firm and solid as when first set up in Henry VII.'s reign, and
+are rich in carvings, as is the graceful wide-spanned roof. One of the
+bosses represents a sow and her litter, who by tradition suggested the
+idea of the holy edifice being erected by Saint Branock. A window
+showing some of this good person's belongings, spoken of in the tenth
+commandment, is mentioned by Leland, but since then possibly some local
+antiquary may have disregarded what is forbidden in that ancient law.
+Presumably there have been attempts also to annex the ruins of the
+patron-saint's chapel, for the villagers pride themselves that all
+attempts to remove them have failed. What an object-lesson to the jerry
+builders of to-day!</p>
+
+<p>Farther to the north-west and we get to Croyde Bay, which perhaps one
+day may have a future on account of its open sea and sands. At present
+it looks in the early transition state.</p>
+
+<p>Tawstock, to the south of Barnstaple, is said to possess the best manor,
+the noblest mansion, the finest church, and the richest rectory in the
+county. Certainly the church could not easily be rivalled (the
+"Westminster of the West," as it is called) in its picturesque position,
+surrounded by hills and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> woods, with the old gateway of the manor-house,
+the sole remains of the original "Court," flanking the winding road
+which leads down to it: we almost feel justified in adding to these
+superlatives the "handsomest Jacobean tomb, and the most elaborate
+Elizabethan pew," but will not commit ourselves so far. The former, on
+the left-hand side of the altar, is that of the first Earl of Bath
+(Bourchier) and his wife. Above their recumbent effigies is a great
+display of armorial bearings, with sixty-four quarterings hung upon a
+vine, showing the intermarriages of the principal families of England.
+There are many other fine monuments, that of Rachael, the last Countess
+of Bath, who died in Charles II.'s reign, representing a lifelike and
+exceedingly graceful figure in white marble. She was the daughter of
+Francis, Earl of Westmoreland, and married secondly, Lionel, third Earl
+of Middlesex, who predeceased her. The Elizabethan pew of the
+Bourchier-Wrays, lords of the manor, has a canopy, and is richly carved;
+but it was originally of larger dimensions. Close by are some fine
+bench-ends, one of which displays the arms of Henry VII. High aloft is a
+curious Elizabethan oak gallery by which the ringers reach the tower,
+upon which are carvings of the vine pattern, a favourite design in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>
+Devon. An early effigy in wood must not be forgotten, the recumbent
+figure of a female, supposed to be a Hankford, who brought the Tawstock
+estates into the Bourchiers' possession.</p>
+
+<p>From northern Devonshire let us turn our attention to some nooks in the
+easternmost corner and in the adjoining part of Dorset.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the villages along the coast-line here, Branscombe is the most
+beautiful and old-fashioned. Many of the ancient thatched and
+whitewashed cottages have Tudor doors and windows. Some of the best,
+alas! were condemned as being unsafe some fifteen years ago, among them
+one which in the old smuggling days had many convenient hiding-places
+for that industry, for Branscombe was every bit as notorious as the
+little bay of Beer. The church is, or was not long since, delightfully
+unrestored, for fortunately the good rector is one who does not believe
+in up-to-date things, and the sweeping changes which are rampant in
+places more accessible. It is the sort of comfortable old country church
+that we associate with the early days of David Copperfield or with
+Little Nell. Truly the high box-pews are not loved by antiquarians, but
+is it not better to leave them than replace them with something modern
+and uncomfortable? If the original oak benches of the fifteenth or
+sixteenth centuries could be replaced, that is entirely another matter.
+But they cannot, therefore let those who love old associations not
+banish the Georgian pews without a thought that they also form a link
+with the past. The church is cruciform, and principally of the Early
+English and Early Decorated periods, the old grey tower in the centre
+standing picturesquely out in the beaut<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span>ifully wooded valley. The village
+of Beer is also very charming, and the fisher folk fine types of men. It
+is delightful to watch the little fleet set sail; but in the summer the
+air in the tiny bay is oppressive, and the effluvia of fish somewhat
+overpowering. The extensive caves here have done good service in the
+smuggling days.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_068" id="ILL_068"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_068.jpg" width="400" height="294" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">BINDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Another charming village is Axmouth, situated on the river which gives
+its name. Old-fashioned cottages with gay little gardens straggle up the
+hill, down which the clearest of streams runs merrily, affording delight
+to a myriad of ducks who dip and paddle to their hearts' content. The
+church has Norman features, and the tower some quaint projecting
+gargoyles. From the other side of the river at high tide the old church
+and cluster of cottages around it, backed by the graceful slope of
+Hawksdown Hill behind, make a charming picture. High up in the hills,
+through typical Devonshire fern-clad lanes, is Bindon, an interesting
+Tudor house containing a chapel of the fifteenth century. The entrance
+from the road, with its circular stone gateway and gables with latticed
+mullioned-windows peeping over the moss-grown wall, is charming, as are
+also the old farm-buildings at the back, in which an enormous canopied
+well is conspicuous. But more gigan<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span>tic still is the well at Bovey,
+another Tudor house, near Beer, which bears the reputation of being
+haunted. But with the exception of some gables at the back, Bovey is
+less picturesque than Bindon, owing, perhaps, to the fact that the roof
+has been re-slated.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_069" id="ILL_069"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_069.jpg" width="400" height="294" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">BINDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>More interesting are the remains of old Shute House, which lies inland
+some six or seven miles. This was a far more extensive mansion, as will
+be seen by the imposing embattled gateway and a remaining wing, which
+rather remind one of a bit of Haddon. Here during the Monmouth Rebellion
+the Royalist commander Christopher, second Duke of Albemarle, encamped
+on June 18, 1685, the same day that the other duke, the boon companion
+of his wilder days, entered Taunton. The house belonged then, as it does
+still, to the De la Poles.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the old houses hereabouts are associated in some sort of way
+with the rebellion. Close upon the county border to the north-east
+stands Coaxden, a much modernised old farm, where stories are told of
+fugitives from Sedgemoor. How its occupant, Richard Cogan, being
+suspected as a Monmouth adherent, fled from his house to Axminster,
+where in the "Old Green Dragon Inn" the landlord's daughter secreted him
+between a feather-bed and the sacking of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> bedstead. Kirke's "lambs"
+traced him to the house, but failed to hit upon his hiding-place. The
+story ends as all such stories should, the girl who preserved his life
+became his wife. The house is further interesting as the birthplace in
+1602 of Sir Symonds D'Ewes the historian.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_070" id="ILL_070"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_070.jpg" width="400" height="380" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">WYLDE COURT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A couple of miles or so to the west is Wylde Court, another interesting
+old farmhouse, much less restored, dating from Elizabeth's reign, with
+numerous pinnacled gable ends and characteristic entrance porch and oak
+panelled rooms. This and Pilsdon, another Tudor house a few miles to the
+west, at the foot of Pilsdon Pen, belonged to the Royalist Wyndhams, and
+in the troublous times they were looked upon with suspicion, and
+searched on one or two occasions by the Parliamentary soldiers.
+"Hellyer's Close," near Wylde Court, is so named because a Royalist
+commander, Colonel Hellyer, was taken prisoner and executed here by
+Cromwell's soldiers. At the time that Charles II., in 1651, attempted to
+get away to France from the coast of Dorset, Pilsdon was visited by a
+party of Cromwellian soldiers, and Sir Hugh Wyndham and his family
+secured in the hall while the house was thoroughly searched, suspicion
+even falling upon one of the ladies that she was the king in
+disguise.<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> Sir Hugh's monument may be seen at Silton in the extreme
+north corner of the county.</p>
+
+<p>Chideock is a charming old-world village in the valley between Charmouth
+and Bridport, snugly perched between the cone-shaped eminence Colmer's
+Hill and Golden Cap, the gorse-covered headland, said to be the highest
+point between Dover and the Land's End. The castle of the De Chideocks
+and Arundells, a famous stronghold built in Richard II.'s reign, long
+since has disappeared, but its moat can be traced. The fine old church
+exteriorly is one of the most picturesque in Dorsetshire, but the inside
+has been much restored and modernised. A handsome tomb of Sir John<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>
+Arundell in armour is in the south aisle.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_071" id="ILL_071"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_071.jpg" width="400" height="301" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">MAPPERTON MANOR-HOUSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Longevity seems to be the order of the day round "Golden Cap." At Cold
+Harbour we chatted with a hearty old man enjoying his pipe by his
+cottage door. He was close on eighty; but there was still a generation
+over his head, for his father, evidently to show his son a good example,
+was hard at work digging potatoes in the back garden. We solicited the
+honour to photograph the pair, and asked the elder of the two if he
+would have a pipe. No, he didn't smoke, but he could drink, he said; and
+so, of course, we took the hint, and he with equal promptitude toddled
+up the lane, as digging potatoes at the age of ninety-nine is thirsty
+work.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_072" id="ILL_072"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_072.jpg" width="400" height="276" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">MELPLASH COURT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is a deep picturesque lane near Chideock called "Skenkzies" which
+at night-time is particularly dark, and held in awe, for there are
+stories of evil spirits lurking about; and little wonder, for close at
+hand is a farmhouse called "Hell!" Old customs and superstitions die
+hard in western Dorset. Forlorn and love-sick maidens as a special
+inducement for their lo<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span>vers to appear, place their boots at right angles
+to one another in the form of a T upon retiring to roost. The charm is
+said to be irresistible; but there have been cases where it has failed,
+when the size has exceeded "men's eights."</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_073" id="ILL_073"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_073.jpg" width="400" height="349" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">WATERSTONE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To the north-west of Bridport and the south-west of Beaminster are two
+old houses within a couple of miles of one another, the manor-houses of
+Melplash and Mapperton. The former, a plain Elizabethan gabled house, is
+said to have been one of the many residences of Nell Gwyn. Whether the
+old Hall of Parnham, the seat of the Strodes, was honoured by a visit of
+the Merry Monarch we do not know. If so, it is possible Nell may have
+been housed at Melplash. Mapperton is a remarkably picturesque house,
+with projecting bays and a balustraded roof, above which are little
+dormer windows. Part of the house is evidently Jacobean and part dates
+from the reigns of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth, and the combination of
+styles, the niched entrance gates surmounted by eagles, the ornamental
+pinnacles, and the "upping-stock" beside the wall, make a most fantastic
+whole. It was once the seat of the Coker family.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_074" id="ILL_074"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_074.jpg" width="400" height="298" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">ATHELHAMPTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There are some interesting old mansions within a few miles of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span>
+Dorchester. Wolverton or Wolfeton manor-house, for example, and
+Waterstone and Athelhampton, the last two of which appear in Nash's
+<i>Mansions</i>. Each one is entirely different from the other. Waterstone is
+a small late-Elizabethan or early-Jacobean house, with a quaint
+balustraded bay over the entrance porch, and some elaborate and graceful
+stonework upon a projecting gable that stands at right angles to it.
+This presumably was once the principal entrance. It is certainly quite
+unique and somewhat perplexing. At Wiston House in Sussex we remember
+having seen some very elaborate Elizabethan ornamentation upon a gable
+which really had no business there, although the effect was very
+pleasing: and here, perhaps, we have the same sort of thing. Wolverton
+is a fine early-Tudor building with battlemented tower and a stately
+array of lofty mullioned windows, and careful restoration has added to
+its picturesque appearance.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_075" id="ILL_075"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_075.jpg" width="400" height="300" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">ATHELHAMPTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>But sympathetic restoration may be seen at its best at Athelhampton. We
+took some photographs many years ago, when it was occupied as a
+farmhouse, and upon a recent visit could scarcely recognise it as the
+same. Not that the house has been much altered exteriorly, but the
+quaint old-fashioned gardens, with pinnacled Elizabethan walls, ancient
+fish-ponds and fountains, have sprung up and matured in a manner that
+had one not seen the gardens as they were, one would scarcely credit it.
+Wonders have been done within as well, and the great hall is very
+different from what it was before the present owner came into
+possession. There are suits of armour and Gothic cabinets to carry us
+back to the days of doublet and trunk-hose and square-toed shoes. Where
+formerly were pigsties is now a terrace walk, and the quaint old
+circular dovecot has been carried off bodily and planted where it
+balances to best advantage. But one thing we should like to see, and
+that is the ancient gatehouse that was standing in Nash's time. There is
+his drawing to go by, and where everything has been done in such
+excellent taste one need have little fear that in a few years a new
+building would settle down harmoniously with the rest.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_076" id="ILL_076"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_076.jpg" width="400" height="302" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">ATHELHAMPTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Close by is Puddletown, a pretty old village with a remarkable church,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>
+where, as at Athelhampton, everything is in harmony. It is the sort of
+church one reads about in novels, yet so seldom meets; and now we come
+to think of it, this village does figure in a popular Wessex novel.
+Doubtless there are some lovers of ecclesiastical architecture who would
+like to see the Jacobean woodwork cleared out and <i>modern</i> Henry VII.
+benches introduced to make the whole coeval. The towering three-decker
+pulpit is delightful, and so are the ancient pews, and the old gallery
+and staircase leading up to it. Within the Athelhampton chapel are
+mailed effigies, and several ancient brasses to the Martin family who
+originally owned the mansion.</p>
+
+<p>Bere Regis church, some six miles to the east of Puddletown, is also
+remarkable, particularly for its open hammer-beam roof from which
+project huge life-size figures of pilgrims, cardinals, bishops, etc.,
+and monster heads suggestive of the pantomime. The whole is coloured,
+and the effect very rich and strikingly original. One can imagine how
+the younger school-children must be impressed with these awe-inspiring
+figures looking down upon them with steady gaze. There are two fine
+canopied tombs (one containing brasses dated 1596) to the Turburvilles,
+who possessed a moiety of the lordship since the Conquest. Their old
+manor-house, a few miles south at Wool, a red-brick Jacobean gabled
+house with roomy porch in which a great pendant is conspicuous,
+picturesquely situated by an old bridge and the winding ree<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>d-grown
+river, has of recent years obtained notoriety by Mr. Thomas Hardy's pen.
+We photographed the old house some years ago before it had been thus
+immortalised. Upon a recent visit we found the house desolate and empty.
+Had the good farmer flown in consequence, and sought an abode that had
+not become a literary landmark?</p>
+
+<p>But the vicinity of Bere Regis had obtained notoriety of a tragic kind
+many centuries before the birth of <i>Tess of the d'Urbervilles</i>, for that
+very undesirable lady, Queen Elfrida, retired there for peace and
+quietness after various deeds of darkness, one of which, according to
+the <i>Annals</i> of Ely, is said to have been inserting red-hot nails into
+Abbot Brithnoth's armpits; and from Lytchet Maltravers to the east of
+Bere came Sir John Maltravers to whose tender mercies the unfortunate
+Edward II. was delivered before he was done to death at Berkeley Castle.
+Sir John's monument is in the church; but as it was not the fashion in
+those days to enumerate the various virtues of the departed in laudatory
+verse, this particular act of charity is not recorded in suitable
+effusion.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 313px;"><a name="ILL_077" id="ILL_077"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_077.jpg" width="313" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">MONMOUTH&#39;S TREE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Wimborne Minster to the north-east is too world-famed to call for any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span>
+particular description here, but a word may be said about the first Free
+Library in the country. In past days, when there was no good Mr.
+Carnegie to cater for the welfare of millions, nor the finest classics
+to be purchased for sixpence, it was only natural, books being rare,
+that the local authorities should not have placed the same implicit
+trust in would-be readers as is shown by the British Museum Library
+authorities. The rusty iron chains securing the aged tomes to an iron
+rod above the queer old desks even after the lapse of centuries would
+hold their own. The literature cannot be said to be of a much lighter
+nature than the bulky volumes in weight. The rarest specimens are placed
+in glass cases, and are calculated to make the mildest bibliomaniac
+full of envy. Before the Reformation the Minster was rich in holy
+relics, conspicuous among which was a part of St Agatha's thigh. One of
+the most curious things still to be seen is a coffin brilliantly painted
+with armorial devices, placed in the niche of a wall, which according to
+the will of the occupant has to be touched up from year to year; and
+thus the memory of the worthy magistrate, Anthony Ettrick, is kept more
+actively alive than good King Ethelred who rests beneath the pavement by
+the altar. Ettrick lived at Holt Lodge near Woodlands, a few miles away
+in the direction of Cranborne; and when the Duke of Monmouth was
+captured in rustic garb in the vicinity, he was brought before the
+magistrate and removed from Holt to Ringwood, where at the "Angel Inn"
+the room in which he was kept prisoner is still pointed out. We have
+elsewhere described the old ash tree near Crowther's Farm beneath which
+the unfortunate fugitive from Sedgemoor was found. It is propped up, and
+has lost a limb, but is alive to-day, and surely should be protected by
+a railing and an inscription like other historic trees. To the north is
+St. Giles, the ancestral home of the Earls of Shaftesbury, the first
+representative of which title, Anthony Ashley Cooper, worked so
+skilfully on Monmouth's ambition. When the Merry Monarch visited the
+noble politician at St. Giles, he little thought that his favourite son
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>would be taken a prisoner as a traitor within only a mile or so of the
+mansion. A memento of the royal visit is still preserved in the form of
+a medicine chest that the king left behind, which in those days
+doubtless contained some of his favourite specific "Jesuit drops."</p>
+
+<p>Another historic mansion is Kingston Lacy, to the west of Wimborne,
+the old seat of the Bankes family, which is rich in Stuart portraits
+as well as other valuable works of art. It is a typical square
+comfortable-looking Charles <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span>II. house, with dormer-windowed roof and
+wide projecting eaves. The staunch Royalist, James Buder, the great Duke
+of Ormonde, lived here in his latter years, and died here in 1688. The
+duke's intimate friend, Sir Robert Southwell, has left a graphic account
+of the last hours of the good old nobleman, which he concludes with the
+following:&mdash;"His Grace could remember some things that passed when he
+was but three years old. He was only four years old when his
+great-great-uncle Earl Thomas died in 1614, but he retained a perfect
+remembrance of him. That Earl lived in the reigns of King Henry the
+Eighth, King Edward the Sixth, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, and King
+James; and His Grace had seen King James the First, King Charles the
+First, King Charles the Second, and King James the Second; so that
+between them both they were contemporary with nine princes who ruled
+this land!"<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a></p>
+
+<hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="HERE_AND_THERE_IN_SALOP" id="HERE_AND_THERE_IN_SALOP">HERE AND THERE IN SALOP</a></h2>
+
+<h2>AND STAFFORDSHIRE</h2>
+
+<p>The important and ancient capital of Salop would indeed be insulted were
+it called a "nook" or "corner." Could it so be named, we might be
+allowed to let our enthusiasm run wild in this most delightful old town.
+Shrewsbury and Tewkesbury are to our mind far more interesting than
+Chester, which has so many imitation old houses to spoil the general
+harmony. At Shrewsbury or Tewkesbury there are very few mock antiques,
+and at every turn and corner there are ancient buildings to carry our
+fancy back to the important historical events that have happened in
+these places. One cannot but be thankful to the local authorities for
+preserving the mediæval aspect, and let us offer up a solemn prayer that
+the electric tramway fiend may never be permitted to enter.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_078" id="ILL_078"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_078.jpg" width="400" height="253" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SERVANT&#39;S HALL, CHIRK CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Chirk Castle is so close upon the boundaries of Salop that we may
+include this corner of Denbighshire. It is the only border fortress of
+Wales still inhabited, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>nd is remarkably situated on an eminence high
+above the grand old trees of the park, or rather forest, surrounding it.
+It has stood many a siege, but its massive external walls look little
+the worse for it. They are of immense thickness, and so wide that two
+people abreast can walk upon the battlements. The huge round towers,
+with deep-set windows and loopholes, have a very formidable appearance
+as you climb the steep ascent from the picturesque vale beneath. It was
+built by the powerful family of Mortimer early in the fourteenth
+century. From the Mortimers and Beauchamps it came into the possession
+of Henry VIII.'s natural son, the Duke of Richmond and Somerset, and to
+Lord Seymour, brother of the Protector Somerset. Then the Earl of
+Leicester owned it in Elizabeth's time, and eventually Sir Thomas
+Myddelton, Lord Mayor in James I.'s reign. His son, Sir Thomas, fought
+valiantly for the Parliamentary side, and in 1644 had to besiege his own
+fortress. A letter from the governor, Sir John Watts, to Prince Rupert,
+which still hangs in the great hall, describes how the owner "attempted
+to worke into the castle with iron crowes and pickers under great
+plancks and tables, which they had erected against the castle side for
+their shelter: but my stones beate them off." In the following year
+Charles I. slept there on two occasions; and it was here that he learned
+the defeat of the great Montrose. After the king's execution, Sir
+Thomas, like many others, began to show favour to the other side; and
+the year before the Restoration he was mixed up in Sir George Booth's
+Cheshire rising, and had to fortify his castle against General Lambert,
+to whom he eventually surre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>ndered. But the general did not depart until
+he had disabled the fortress, and the damage done after the Restoration
+took £30,000 to repair. It was Sir Hugh, the younger brother of the
+first Sir Thomas Myddelton, who made the New River, which was opened on
+Michaelmas Day, 1613. A share in 1633 was valued at £3, 4s. 2d., and in
+1899 one was sold for £125,000!</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_079" id="ILL_079"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_079.jpg" width="400" height="253" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SERVANTS&#39; HALL, CHIRK CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The various apartments are ranged round a large quadrangle, parts of
+which remind one somewhat of Haddon. On one side is the great hall, and
+opposite the servants' hall. The former, with its minstrels' gallery,
+heraldic glass, and ancient furniture, is full of interest. The walls
+are hung with various pieces of armour, and weapons, and a Cavalier
+drum, saddle, and hat, the latter with its leather travelling case,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>
+which is probably unique. There is a gorgeous coloured pedigree to the
+first Sir Thomas Myddelton, recording ancestors centuries before, though
+perhaps not quite so far back as the pedigree in the long gallery at
+Hatfield, which is said to go back to Adam.</p>
+
+<p>The servants' hall is a delightful old room, with long black oak tables
+and settles, those against the wall being fixtures to the panelling.
+There is a raised dais, and a seat of state to make distinction at the
+board. There are queer old portraits of ancient retainers, one the
+bellman who used to ring the great bell in the corner turret of the
+quadrangle, and another very jolly looking porter, who has his eye on an
+antique beer barrel perched on wheels in a corner of the room. This
+apparatus has done good service in its day, as have the great pewter
+dishes and copper jugs. Above the wide open fireplace are the Myddelton
+arms. The servants' hall was an orderly apartment:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">"No noise nor strife nor swear at all,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">But all be decent in the Hall,"</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>is written up for everybody to see, with the following rules:&mdash;That
+every servant must take off his hat at entering; and sit in his proper
+place, and drink in his turn, and refrain from telling tales or speaking
+disrespectfully, and various other things, which misdeeds were to be
+punished in the first instance by the offender being deprived of his
+allowance of beer; for the second offence, three days' beer; and the
+third, a week.</p>
+
+<p>The castle is rich in portraits, especially by Lely and Kneller, many of
+which hang in the oak gallery, which extends the whole length of the
+eastern wing; and there are several fine oak cabinets, one of which, of
+ebony and tortoise-shell with silver<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> chasings, was given to the third
+Sir Thomas Myddelton by the Merry Monarch.</p>
+
+<p>The wrought-iron entrance gates of very elaborate workmanship were made
+in 1719 by the local blacksmith.</p>
+
+<p>At the ancient seat of the Trevors, Brynkinalt, nearer to Chirk village,
+are some interesting portraits of the Stuart period, notably of Charles
+II.; James, Duke of York; Nell Gwyn, the Duchess of Portsmouth, and
+Barbara Villiers.</p>
+
+<p>Chirk village is insignificant, but has a fine church in which are some
+interesting monuments, notably that of the gallant knight who besieged
+his own castle as before described. He and his second wife are
+represented in marble busts. It was their son Charles who married the
+famous beauty of Charles II.'s reign; she was the daughter of Sir Robert
+Needham, and her younger sister, Eleanor, became the Duke of Monmouth's
+mistress. There is an old brick mansion called Plâs Baddy, near Ruabon,
+where "La Belle Myddelton" and her husband lived when the diversions of
+the Court proved tedious; but buried in these wilds, she must have felt
+sadly out of her element without the large following of admirers at her
+feet. She had more brains, though, than most Court <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>beauties, and being a
+talented artist, was not entirely dependent upon flattery.</p>
+
+<p>Near the entrance of the Ceiriog valley, to the west of Chirk, is a farm
+called Pontfaen, and beyond, across some meadows, there is a remarkable
+Druidical circle. Gigantic stones are riveted to the crosspieces of
+archways, having the appearance of balancing themselves in a most
+remarkable manner. The entrance to the circle has two pillars in which
+are holes through which was passed a pole to act as wicket; and in front
+of the altar is a rock in which may be seen cavities for the feet, where
+the officiating priest is supposed to have stood. It is secluded,
+solemn, and ghostly, especially by moonlight when we saw it for the
+first time. The villages hereabouts, though picturesquely situated, are
+far from interesting: whitewashed and red-brick cottages of a very plain
+and ordinary type, and very few ancient buildings.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the most picturesque old houses in England are to be found in
+the southern and central part of Salop. Take, for example, Stokesay
+Castle, which is quite unique. A battlemented Early English tower with
+lancet windows and the great hall are the principal remains. The latter,
+entered from above by a primitive wooden staircase, is a noble apartment
+with a fine open timber ro<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>of. The exterior has been altered and added to
+at a later period, making a very quaint group of gables, with a
+projecting storey of half-timber of the sixteenth century. This is
+lighted by lattice windows, and the bay or projection is held by timber
+supports from the earlier masonry. It has a deep roof, and the whole
+effect is odd and un-English. Not the least interesting feature is an
+Elizabethan timber gatehouse with carved barge-boards, entrance gate,
+and corner brackets, and the timbers shaped in diamonds and other
+devices. Then there is picturesque Pitchford Hall and Condover close by:
+the former a fine half-timber mansion, the latter a stately Elizabethan
+pile of stone. Pitchford we believe has been very much burnished up and
+considerably enlarged since we were there, but we should not like to see
+it with its new embellishments, for from our recollection of the old
+house, half its charm was owing to the fact that there was nothing
+modern-antique about it: a dear old black-and-white homestead, which
+looked too perfect a picture for the restorer to set to work upon it and
+spoil its poetry; but for all that it may be improved. The courtyard
+presents quite a dazzling arrangement of geometric patterns in the
+timber work, and over the central porch there is a quaint Elizabethan
+gable of wood quite unlike anything we have seen before. The side facing
+the north is, or was, quite a picture for the artist's brush. The
+stately lofty gables of Condover are in striking contrast with the more
+homely looking ones of Pitchford; and the builder was an important
+person in his day, as may be judged from his el<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span>aborate effigy in
+Westminster Abbey, namely, Judge Owen, who claimed descent from one of
+the ancient Welsh kings. Like most Elizabethan houses, Condover Hall is
+built in the form of a letter E, but the central compartment was
+probably added to later on by Inigo Jones. The doorway and bay-windows
+above are of fine proportions, and full of dignity.</p>
+
+<p>At Eaton Constantine, to the east, is the quaint old timber house where
+Richard Baxter lived; and at Langley, to the south-east, a fine old
+timber gatehouse; as well as Plash Hall, famous for its elaborate
+twisted chimneys. Then there is Ludlow with its ruined castle, where
+poor young Edward V. was proclaimed king before he set out for London:
+and its famous "Feathers" hostelry with black-oak panelled rooms, its
+old town-gate, and the ancient bridge of Ludford to the south. The
+country between Ludlow and Shrewsbury is remarkably beautiful,
+especially in the vicinity of Church Stretton, which of recent years has
+grown rabidly as a health resort, meaning, of course, the springing up
+of modern dwellings to mar its old-world snugness.</p>
+
+<p>There is, or was some twenty years ago, a narrow street of old houses,
+behind which, backed by beautiful woods, stood the manor-house, long
+since converted into an inn, and the church. Beyond the woods rise a
+range of lofty hills; and if we take the trouble to clamber up to the
+highest peak (which rises to upwards of 1600 feet), we are well rewarded
+for our pains. Two of the highest points are Caradoc and Lawley, famous
+landmarks for mi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>les around. The "Raven," when we visited it, was a
+quaint old hostelry, and an ideal place to make headquarters for
+exploring the romantic scenery all around.</p>
+
+<p>At the pretty little village of Winnington, close upon the county
+border, and fourteen miles as the crow flies to the north-west of Church
+Stretton, stands a tiny little cottage at the foot of the Briedden
+Hills. Here lived the famous old Parr, who was born there in the reign
+of Edward IV. and died in that of Charles I., having lived in the reigns
+of no less than ten monarchs. In his hundred and fifty-second year he
+went to London for change of air, which unfortunately proved fatal. His
+gravestone in Westminster Abbey will be remembered near Saint-Evremond's
+and Chiffinch's, near the Poets' Corner.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 311px;"><a name="ILL_080" id="ILL_080"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_080.jpg" width="311" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">MARKET DRAYTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The quiet little town of Market Drayton, some eighteen miles to the
+north-east of Shrewsbury, contains many interesting timber houses. There
+is still an old-fashioned air about the place of which the footsore
+pe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>destrian stumbling over the cobble stones soon becomes conscious. The
+quaint overhanging gables in the narrow streets are rich with ornamental
+carvings. One long range of buildings at the corner of Shropshire and
+Cheshire Streets is a fine specimen of "magpie" architecture. Let us
+hope the row of antiquated shops on the basement will remain content
+with their limited space; for so far those imposing modern structures,
+which have a way of throwing everything out of harmony, are conspicuous
+by their absence. Nor has the demon electric tram come to destroy this
+quiet peaceful corner of Salop, as, alas! it has to so many of our old
+towns. One dreads to think what England will be like in another fifty
+years. Farther along Shropshire Street we find a little antiquated inn,
+the "Dun Cow," with great timber beams and thick thatch roof, and the
+"King's Arms" opposite bearing the date 1674 upon the gable abutting
+upon the roof, which does not say much for the sobriety of the person
+who set it up. Hard by is a good Queen Anne house standing a little
+back, as if it didn't like to associate with such neighbours. It looked
+deserted, and was "To Let"; and we couldn't help thinking how this
+compact little house would be picked up were it only situated in
+Kensington or Hampstead.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 311px;"><a name="ILL_081" id="ILL_081"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_081.jpg" width="311" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">MARKET DRAYTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The church, an imposing building finely situated, is disappointing,
+though there is some good Norman work about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> it. It has been reseated,
+and the only thing worth noting is an old tomb showing the quaint female
+costume of Elizabeth's day, and a tall-backed oak settle facing the
+communion table. The latter looks as if it ought to be facing an open
+fireplace in some manorial farm.</p>
+
+<p>Many superstitions linger hereabouts. The old people can recollect the
+dread in which a certain road was held at night for fear of a ghostly
+lady, who had an unpleasant way of jumping upon the backs of the farmers
+as they returned from market. Tradition does not record whether those
+who were thus favoured were total abstainers; possibly not, for the lady
+by all accounts had a grudge against those who occasionally took a
+glass; and in a certain inn cellar, when jugs had to be replenished, it
+was discomforting to find her seated on the particular barrel required,
+like the goblin seen by Gabriel Grub upon the tombstone.</p>
+
+<p>There was a custom among the old Draytonites for some reason, not to
+permit their aged to die on a feather-bed. It was believed to make them
+die hard, and so <i>in extremis</i> it was dragged from beneath the
+unfortunate person. The sovereign remedy they had for whooping-cough is
+worth remembering, as it is so simple. All you have to do is to cut some
+hair from the n<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span>ape of the invalid child's neck, place it between a piece
+of bread and butter, and hand the sandwich to a dog. If he devours it
+the malady is cured; if he doesn't, well, the life of the dog at least
+is spared.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles to the east of the town, in the adjoining county, is the
+famous battlefield of Bloreheath, where the Houses of Lancaster and
+York fought desperately in 1459. The latter under the Earl of
+Salisbury came off victorious, while the commander of Henry's forces was
+slain. A stone pedestal marks the spot, originally distinguished by a
+wooden cross, where Lord Audley fell.</p>
+
+<p>Of less historical moment but more romantic interest, is the fact that
+here close upon a couple of centuries later the diamond George of
+Charles II. was concealed, while its royal wearer by right was lurking
+fifteen miles away at Boscobel. The gallant Colonel Blague, who had had
+the charge of this tell-tale treasure, was captured and thrown into the
+Tower, where no less a celebrity than peaceful Isaak Walton managed to
+smuggle it. Blague eventually escaped, and so the George found its way
+to the king in France. At Blore also Buckingham remained concealed,
+disguised as a labourer, before he got away into Leicestershire and
+thenc<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span>e to London and the coast. "Buckingham's hole," the cave where his
+grace was hidden, is still pointed out; and a very aged man who lived in
+the neighbourhood a few years ago prided himself that he could show the
+exact place where the duke fell and broke his arm; and he ought to have
+known, as his great-grandfather was personally acquainted with "old
+Elias Bradshaw," who was present when the accident happened.</p>
+
+<p>Broughton Hall, a fine old Jacobean mansion, stands to the east of
+Blore. It is a gloomy house, and has some ghostly traditions. We are
+reminded of the rather startling fact that upon developing a negative of
+the fine oak staircase there, the transparent figure of an old woman in
+a mob-cap stood in the foreground! Here was proof positive for the
+Psychological Society. But, alas! careful investigation upset the
+mystery. The shadowy outline proved to be painfully like the ancient
+housekeeper. The subject had required a long exposure, and the lady must
+have wished to be immortalised, for she certainly must have stood in
+front of the lens for at least a minute or so. It is strange this desire
+to be pictured. Any amateur photographer must have experienced the
+difficulties to be encountered in a village street. The hours of twelve
+and four are fatal. School children in thousands will crop up to fill up
+the foreground. In such a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> predicament a friend of ours was inspired with
+an ingenious remedy. Having covered his head with the black cloth, he
+was horrified to see a myriad of faces instead of the subject he wished
+to take. However, he got his focus adjusted somehow, and having placed
+his dark slide in position ready for exposure, he placed the cloth over
+the lens-end of the camera as if focussing in the opposite direction.
+Immediately there was a stampede for the other side, with considerable
+struggling as to who should be foremost. The cherished little bit of
+village architecture was now free, the cloth whipped away, and the
+exposure given. "Are we all taken in, mister?" asked one of the boys a
+little suspiciously. "Yes, my lads," was the response given, "you've all
+been taken in." And so they had, but went home rejoicing.</p>
+
+<p>Beside the staircase, there is little of interest inside Broughton.
+There was a hiding-place once in one of the rooms which was screened by
+an old oil painting, but it is now merged into tradition. The road from
+Newport passes through wild and romantic scenery. At Croxton, farther to
+the east, there is, or was, a Maypole, one of those old-world villages
+where ancient customs die hard. Swinnerton Hall, a fine Queen Anne house
+to the north-east, and nearer to Stone, is the seat of the ancient
+family of Fitzherbert, the beautiful widow of one of whose members was
+in 1785 married to the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV.</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span></p>
+<p>The palatial Hall of Trentham, farther to the north, is rather beyond
+our province, being in the main modern. One grieves that the fine old
+house represented in Dr. Plot's quaint history of the county has passed
+away; one grieves, indeed, that so many of these fine Staffordshire
+houses are no more. The irreparable loss of Ingestre Hall, Wrothesley
+Hall, Enville Hall, and of Severn End in the adjoining county, makes one
+shudder at the dangers of fire in these ancestral mansions. Coombe
+Abbey in Warwickshire was only quite recently saved from a like fate by
+Lord Craven's activity and presence of mind.</p>
+
+<p>But the old gatehouse of Tixall to the east of Stafford, and Wootton
+Lodge to the north of Uttoxeter, fortunately still remain intact. The
+former presents much the same appearance as in Plot's drawing of 1686,
+but the curious gabled timber mansion beyond has long since disappeared,
+and the classic building that occupies its site looks hardly in keeping
+with so perfect an example of Elizabethan architecture. The romantic
+situation of Wootton Lodge is well described by Howitt. The majestic
+early-Jacobean mansion (the work of Inigo Jones) has a compactness and
+dignity quite its own, and there is nothing like it anywhere in England,
+though more classic, perhaps, than the majority of houses of its period.
+It has a battlemen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span>ted roof surmounted by an array of massive chimneys,
+mullioned windows innumerable, and a graceful flight of steps leading to
+the ornamental porch. It was not at this stately house that the
+eccentric Jean Jacques came to bury himself for over a year, but at the
+Hall, a far less picturesque building. The philosopher and his companion
+Thérèsa le Vasseur were looked at askance by the country folk; and "old
+Ross Hall," as they called him, botanising in the secluded lanes in his
+strange striped robe and grotesque velvet cap with gold tassels and
+pendant, was a holy terror to the children. It was supposed he was in
+search of "lost spirits," as indeed was the case, for his melancholia at
+length led to his departure under the suspicion that there was a plot to
+poison him.</p>
+
+<p>A bee-line drawn across Staffordshire, say from Bridgnorth in Salop to
+Haddon in Derbyshire, would intersect some of the most interesting
+spots. In addition to Wootton and Ingestre, we have Throwley Hall,
+Croxden and Calwich Abbeys, and Tissington (in Derbyshire) to the
+north-east (not to mention Alton and Ham), and Boscobel, Whiteladies,
+Tong, etc., to the south-east.</p>
+
+<p>Of Boscobe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span>l and Whiteladies we have dealt with elsewhere too
+particularly to call for any fresh description here; but not so with the
+picturesque village of Tong, whose church is certainly the most
+interesting example of early-Perpendicular architecture in the county.
+Would that the interiors of our old churches were as carefully preserved
+as is the case here. There is nothing modern and out of harmony. The
+rich oak carvings of the screens and choir stalls; the monumental
+effigies of the Pembrugges, Pierrepoints, Vernons, and Stanleys; the
+Golden Chapel, or Vernon chantry&mdash;all recall nooks and corners in
+Westminster Abbey. It was Sir Edward Stanley, whose recumbent effigy in
+plate armour is conspicuous, who married Margaret Vernon, the sister of
+the runaway heiress of Haddon, and thus inherited Tong Castle, as his
+brother-in-law did the famous Derbyshire estate.</p>
+
+<p>The early-Tudor castle was demolished in the eighteenth century, when
+the present Strawberry-Hill Gothic fortress of reddish-coloured stone
+was erected by a descendant of the Richard Durant whose initials may
+still be seen on the old house in the Corn Market at Worcester, where
+Charles II. lodged before the disastrous battle.<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> Unromantic as were
+Georgian squires, as a rule, the Eastern Gothic architecture of their
+houses and the fantastic and unnatural grottoes in their grounds show
+signs of sentimental hankering. At Tong they went one better, for there
+are traditions of Æolian harps set in the masonry of the farmyard of the
+castle. The mystic music must indeed have been thrown unto the winds!</p>
+
+<p>But the Moorish-looking mansion, if architecturally somewhat a
+monstrosity, is nevertheless picturesque, with its domed roofs and
+pinnacles. A fine collection of pictures was dispersed in 1870,
+including an interesting portrait of Nell Gwyn, and of Charles I., which
+has been engraved.</p>
+
+<p>In the older building (which somewhat resembled old Hendlip Hall) was
+born the famous seventeenth-century beauty, Lady Venetia Digby, <i>née</i>
+Stanley, of whom Vandyck has left us many portraits, notably the one at
+Windsor Castle,&mdash;an allegorical picture representing the triumph of
+innocence over calumny, for she certainly was a lady with "a past." The
+learned and eccentric Sir Kenelm Digby, her husband, endeavoured to
+preserve her charms by administering curious mixtures, such as viper
+wine; and this, though it was very well meant, probably ended her career
+before she was thirty-three. One can scarcely be surprised that at the
+post-mortem examination they discovered but very little brains; but this<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span>
+her husband attributed to his viper wine getting into her head!</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_082" id="ILL_082"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_082.jpg" width="400" height="267" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">BLACKLADIES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Not far from Tong, in a secluded lane, is a tiny cottage called Hobbal
+Grange, which is associated with the wanderings of Charles II. when a
+fugitive from Worcester. Here lived the mother of the loyal Penderel
+brothers, who risked their lives in harbouring their illustrious guest.
+We mention Hobbal more particularly as since the <i>Flight of the King</i>
+was written we have had it pointed out pretty conclusively that "the
+Grange" of to-day is only a small portion of the original "Grange Farm"
+converted into a labourer's dwelling. The greater part of the original
+house was pulled down in the eighteenth century. In an old plan, dated
+1739, of which we have a tracing before us, there are no less than seven
+buildings comprising the farm, which was the largest on the Tong estate.
+In 1855 it was reduced to eighty-six acres. In 1716, Richard Penderel's
+grandson, John Rogers, was still in residence at Hobbal.</p>
+
+<p>Near Whiteladies is the rival establishment Blackladies, a picturesque
+red-brick house with step-gables and mullioned bays. As the name
+implies, this also was a nunnery, but there are but scanty remains of
+the original building. There is a stone cross, and some other fragments
+are built into the masonry; and in the stables may be seen the chapel,
+where services were held until sixty years ago. Part of the moat also
+remains. A lane near at hand<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> is still known as "Spirit Lane," because
+the Black Nuns of centuries ago have been seen to walk there.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="IN_NORTHERN_DERBYSHIRE" id="IN_NORTHERN_DERBYSHIRE">IN NORTHERN DERBYSHIRE</a></h2>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 382px;"><a name="ILL_083" id="ILL_083"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_083.jpg" width="382" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">GREAT HALL, HADDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our first impression of romantic Derbyshire vividly recalled one of the
+opening chapters of <i>Adam Bede</i>. Having secured lodgings at a pretty
+village not many miles from Haddon, we were somewhat disturbed with
+nocturnal hammerings issuing from an adjacent wheelwright's. Somebody
+had had the misfortune to fall into the river and was drowned, so we
+learned in the morning, and the rest we could guess. Somewhat depressed,
+we were on the point of sallying forth when the local policeman arrived
+and demanded our presence at the inquest, as one of the jurymen had
+failed to put in an appearance. A cheerful beginning to a holiday!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_084" id="ILL_084"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_084.jpg" width="400" height="371" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">GREAT HALL, HADDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is something about dear old Haddon Hall that makes it quite
+unique, and few ancient baronial dwellings are so rich in the poetry of
+association. In the first place, though a show house, one is not
+admitted by one door and ejected from another with a jumbled idea of
+what we have seen and an undigested store of historical information. One
+forgets it is a show place at all. It is more like the enchanted castle
+of the fairy story, where the occupants have been asleep for centuries;
+and in passing through the grand old rooms one would scarcely be
+surprised to encounter people in mediæval costume, or knights in
+clanking armour. The lovers of historical romance for once will find
+pictures of their imagination realised. They can fit in favourite scenes
+and characters with no fear of stumbling across modern "improvements"
+to destroy the illusion and bring them back to the twentieth century.
+Compare the time-worn grey old walls of this baronial house with those
+of Windsor Castle, and one will see the havoc that has been done to the
+latter by centuries of restoration. Events that have happened at Haddon
+appear to us real; but at Windsor, so full of historic memories, there
+is but little to assist the imagination.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_085" id="ILL_085"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_085.jpg" width="400" height="339" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">COURTYARD, HADDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The picturesqueness of Haddon is enhanced by its lack of uniformity. The
+rooms and courtyards and gardens are all on different levels, and we are
+continually climbing up or down stairs. The first ascent to the great
+entrance gate is precipitous, and some of the stone steps are almost
+worn away with use. Entering the first courtyard (there are two, with
+buildings around each) there is another ascent, with a quaint external
+staircase beyond, leading to the State apartments, and to the left again
+there are steps by which the entrance of the banqueting-hall is reached.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite is the chapel, with its panelled, balustraded pews and
+two-decker Jacobean pulpit, which is very picturesque; and the second
+courtyard beyond, to the south of which is the Long Gallery or ballroom,
+with bay-windows looking upon the upper garden, from which ascend those
+well-known and much photographed balustraded stone steps to the shaded
+terrace-walk and winter garden, above which, and approached by another
+flight of steps, is Dorothy Vernon's Walk, a romantic avenue of lime and
+sycamore. Facing the steps and screened by a great yew tree is yet
+another flight, with ball-surmounted pillars, leading to the "Lord's
+Parlour," or Orange Parlour as it was formerly called; and from this
+picturesque exit the Haddon heiress eloped with the gallant John
+Manners, and by so doing brought the noble estate into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> the possession of
+the Dukes of Rutland.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_086" id="ILL_086"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_086.jpg" width="400" height="306" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">DRAWING-ROOM, HADDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>An elaborately carved Elizabethan doorway leads here from the ballroom,
+which is rich in carved oak panelling and has a coved ceiling bearing
+the arms and crest of the Manners and Vernons. By repute, all the
+woodwork, including the circular oak steps leading to the apartment, was
+cut from a single tree in the park. The ash-grey colour of the wood is
+caused by a light coat of distemper, which it has been surmised was
+added at some time to give it the appearance of cedar. Not many years
+ago there was a controversy upon this subject, which resulted in some
+ill-advised person obtaining leave to anoint a portion of the panelling
+with boiled oil. The result was disastrous, and led to an indignant
+outcry from artists and architects; but fortunately the act of vandalism
+was stopped in time, and the muddy substance removed. The wainscoting
+consists of a series of semicircular arches divided by fluted and
+ornamental pillars of different heights and sizes, the smaller panels
+being surmounted by the shields of arms and crests of the ancient owners
+of the Hall, above which is a bold turreted and battlemented cornice.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 393px;"><a name="ILL_087" id="ILL_087"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_087.jpg" width="393" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">WITHDRAWING ROOM, HADDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The old banqueting-hall is rather cosier looking than the famous hall of
+Penshurst. The narrow, long oak table with its rustic settle is somewhat
+similar, but later in character than those at Penshurst, and has a
+grotesque arrangement of projecting feet. The hall is all nooks and
+corners. Below a projecting gallery is a recess for the wide
+well-staircase, with its little gates to keep the dogs downstairs, and a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>
+lattice-paned window lighting up the uneven lines of the floor. The
+walls are panelled, and there is a wide open fireplace, and the screen
+has Gothic carvings. Attached to the framework is an iron bracelet, to
+enforce the duty of a man drinking his due portion in the good old days.
+The penalty was before him, so should he fail, he knew his lot, namely,
+to have the contents of the capacious black jack emptied down his
+sleeve. The withdrawing-room to the south of the hall is richly
+wainscoted in carved oak, with a recessed window containing a fixed
+settle and a step leading down to a genuine cosy-corner. There are some
+who believe our ancestors had no idea of comfort; but picture this fine
+old room in the winter, with blazing logs upon the fantastic fire-dogs,
+the warm red light playing upon the various armorial carvings of the
+frieze, and the quaint little oriel window half-cast in shadow. The
+apartment immediately above has a still more elaborate frieze of
+ornamental plaster above the rich tapestry hangings, and the bay-window
+in the wainscoted recess, like that beneath, looks upon the gardens,
+with the graceful terrace on the left and the winding Wye and venerable
+bridge below. The circular brass fire-dogs are remarkable.<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> The
+"Earl's Bedchamber" and "Dressing-Room" and the "Lady's Dressing-Room"
+have tapestried walls and snug recessed windows. The "State Bedroom" was
+formerly the "Blue Drawing-room." This also is hung with tapestry, and
+the recessed window has a heavy ornamental frieze above. Near the lofty
+plumed bedstead, with green silk-velvet hangings, is a queer old cradle,
+which formerly was in the chaplain's room on the right-hand side of the
+entrance gate. But to describe the numerous rooms in detail would be
+tedious. Everything is on a huge and ponderous scale in the kitchens and
+offices; one is almost reminded of the giant's kitchen in the pantomime.
+Among the curious and obsolete instruments one encounters here and
+there, there is a wooden instrument like a colossal boot-jack for
+stringing bows. It stands against the wall as if it were in daily use.
+Though there is some good old furniture, one would wish to see the rooms
+less bare. But let us turn to the famous Belvoir manuscripts, which not
+so very long <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>ago were discovered much rat-eaten in a loft of that
+historic seat of the Earls of Rutland. It is interesting after a visit
+to Haddon to dip into these papers and get some idea of what the old
+Hall was like in its most flourishing days. The great bare ballroom must
+have looked very grand in the days of Charles I., with the coved ceiling
+brilliant with paint and gilt. In addition to a "gilded organ," were two
+"harpsicalls" and a "viall chest with a bandora and vialls; a
+shovel-board table on tressels; a large looking-glass of seventy-two
+glasses, and four pictures of shepherds and shepherdesses." Sixteen
+suits of armour adorned the screen of the great hall. The massive oaken
+tables and cabinets displayed a wealth of silver and gilt plate,
+including a "greate quilte doble sault with a peacock" (the crest of the
+Manners) "on the top"; silver basins, ewers, and drinking bowls; a
+warming-pan, two little boats; four porringers with spoons for the
+children, a "maudlin" cup and cover, etc.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_088" id="ILL_088"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_088.jpg" width="400" height="379" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">WITHDRAWING ROOM, HADDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Among the rooms were the "Green Chamber," the "Rose Chamber," the "Great
+Chamber," the "Best Lodging," the "Hunters' Chamber," the "School-house
+Chamber," the "Nursery," the "Smoothing Chamber," the "Partridge
+Chamber," "Windsor," the "Little Gallery," etc. "The uppermost chamber
+in the nether tower" is almost suggestive of something gruesome, while
+"my mistress's sweetmeat closet" sounds tempting; and a list of contents
+included things to make the juvenile palate water&mdash;"Glasses of apricots,
+ma<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span>rmalett, and currants, cherry marmalett, dried pears and plums and
+apricots, preserved and grated oranges, raspberry and currant cakes,
+conserved roses, syrup of violets," etc. These things perhaps are
+trivial, but there is a domesticity about them by which we may think of
+Haddon as a country home as well as a historic building.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 294px;"><a name="ILL_089" id="ILL_089"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_089.jpg" width="294" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">DOORWAY, HADDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Haddon ceased to be a residence of the Dukes of Rutland more than a
+century ago. In the days of the Merry Monarch the ninth earl kept open
+house in a very lavish style. It is said the servants alone amounted to
+one hundred and forty; and capacious as are the ancient walls, it is a
+marvel how they all were housed. The romantic Dorothy, who a century
+before ran away upon the evening of a great ball, was the daughter of
+the "King of the Peak," Sir George Vernon, thus nicknamed for his lordly
+and open-handed way of living. She died in 1584, and Sir George Manners,
+the eldest of her four children, sided with the Parliament during the
+Civil Wars. But his mode of living was by no means puritanical, and
+Haddon was kept up in its traditional lavish style. In Bakewell church
+there is a fine marble tomb representing him and his wife and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>children,
+as well as the tomb of the famous Dorothy and her husband, Sir John
+Manners. The family crest, a Peacock in his pride, that is, with his
+tail displayed, so conspicuous with the Vernon boar's head in the
+panelling and parqueting of Haddon, gives its name to the most
+delightful of ancient hostelries at Rowsley. The proximity of the
+mansion must have made its fortune over and over again, apart from its
+piscatorial attractions. The gable ends and latticed windows, and the
+ivy-grown battlemented porch and trim gardens, are irresistible, and no
+one could wish for quarters more in harmony with the old baronial Hall.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_090" id="ILL_090"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_090.jpg" width="400" height="297" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">INTERIOR COURTYARD, HADDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In striking contrast to the sturdy ruggedness of hoary Haddon is
+princely Chatsworth. The comparison may be likened to that between a
+mediæval knight and a gorgeous cavalier. The art treasures and sumptuous
+magnificence of Chatsworth, the elaborate and graceful carvings (which
+by the way are not nearly all by the hand of Gibbons, but by a local man
+named Samuel Watson), and the beauty of the gardens, make it rightly
+named the "Palace of the Peak." But it is its association with the
+luckless Mary Queen of Scots which adds romantic interest to the
+mansion,&mdash;not that the existing classical structure can claim that
+honour, for nothing now remains of the older building, a battlemen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span>ted
+Tudor structure with an entrance like the gatehouse of Kenilworth
+Castle, and a "gazebo" on either side of the western front. It is odd,
+however, that Lord Burleigh should have selected it as "a mete house for
+good preservation" of a prisoner "having no toure of resort wher any
+ambushes might lye," for there were no less than eight towers, but
+presumably not the kind the Lord High Treasurer meant. During her twelve
+years' captivity in Sheffield (where, by the way, "Queen Mary's
+Chamber," with its curious heraldic ceiling, may still be seen in the
+manor-house), she was frequently at Chatsworth and Wingfield Manor under
+the guardianship of George Talbot, sixth Earl of Shrewsbury, the fourth
+husband of that remarkable woman, Bess of Hardwick, who was not a little
+jealous of her husband's fascinating captive, and circulated various
+scandalous stories, about which the Earl thought fit to justify himself
+in his own epitaph in St Peter's church, Sheffield. When the important
+prisoner was under his custody in that town, she was not permitted to go
+beyond the courtyard, and usually took her exercise upon the leads. But
+at Chatsworth her surveillance was less strict, although truly John
+Beaton, the master of her household (who predeceased his mistress, and
+was buried at Edensor close by, where a brass to his memory remains),
+had strict instructions regarding her. Her attendants, thirty-n<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>ine in
+all, were none of them allowed to go beyond the precincts of the grounds
+without special permission, nor was anybody allowed to wait upon the
+queen between nine o'clock at night and six in the morning. None were
+sanctioned to carry arms; and when the fair prisoner wished to take the
+air, Lord Shrewsbury had to be informed an hour beforehand, that he and
+his staff might be upon the alert. One can picture Mary and her maids of
+honour engaged in needlework upon the picturesque moated and balustraded
+stone "Bower" near the river, with guards around ever on the watch. This
+and the old Hunting-tower high up among the trees, a massive structure
+with round Elizabethan towers, are the only remains to take us back to
+the days of the Scots queen's captivity.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_091" id="ILL_091"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_091.jpg" width="400" height="316" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">GREAT HALL, HADDON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>To see Chatsworth to perfection it should be visited when the wooded
+heights in the background are rich in their autumnal colouring. The
+approach from Beeley village through the park and along the bank of the
+Derwent at this season of the year, and the view from the house and
+avenues of the river and park, are particularly beautiful. The elaborate
+waterworks recall the days of the grand monarque, and an <i>al fresco</i>
+shower-bath may be enjoyed beneath a copper willow tree, the kind of
+practical joke that was popular in the old Spring Gardens in London in
+Charles II.'s time. In addition to the splendid paintings, are numerous
+sketches by Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, etc., which came from the
+famous forty d<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span>ays' sale of 1682, when the works collected by Sir Peter
+Lely were dispersed.</p>
+
+<p>Of the stately mansions erected by Bess of Hardwick, the building
+Countess of Shrewsbury,&mdash;Chatsworth, Oldcotes, Hardwick, Bolsover, and
+Worksop,&mdash;Hardwick is the most untouched and perfect. The last remaining
+bit of the older Chatsworth House was removed just a century after
+Bess's death, so the present building must not be associated with her
+name, nor indeed can any rooms at Hardwick have been occupied by Mary
+Queen of Scots, as is sometimes stated, for the house was not begun
+until after her death. If the queen was ever at Hardwick, it was in the
+older mansion, of which very considerable ruins remain. The error, of
+course, arises from one of the rooms at Hardwick being named "Mary Queen
+of Scots' room," which contains the bed and furniture from the room she
+occupied at Chatsworth; and the velvet hangings of the bed bearing her
+monogram, and the rich coverlet, are indeed in her own needlework.</p>
+
+<p>Bess of Hardwick in many respects was like her namesake the
+strong-minded queen; and when her fourth better-half had gained his
+experience and sought sympathy from the Bishop of Lichfield, he received
+the following consoling reply: "Some will say in yo<sup>r</sup> L. behalfe tho'
+the Countesse is a sharpe and bitter <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span>shrewe, and, therefore, licke
+enough to shorten y<sup>r</sup> life, if shee shulde kepe you company. Indede, my
+good Lo. I have heard some say so; but if shrewdnesse or sharpnesse may
+be a just cause of sep[ar]acon betweene a man and wiefe, I thinke fewe
+men in Englande woulde keepe their wiefes longe; for it is a common
+jeste, yet treue in some sense, that there is but one shrewe in all the
+worlde, and evy man bathe her; and so evy man might be rydd of his wife,
+that wolde be rydd of a shrewe." But with all her faults the existence
+of Hardwick and Bolsover alone will cover a multitude of sins. A
+fortune-teller predicted that so long as she kept building she would
+never die; and had not the severity of the winter of 1607 thrown her
+masons out of employment, her ladyship might have survived to show us
+what she could do with the vacant space at Aldwych.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_092" id="ILL_092"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_092.jpg" width="400" height="290" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">HARDWICK HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is something peculiarly majestic and stately about Hardwick Hall.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span>
+It is one mass of lofty windows. It is rarely occupied as a dwelling,
+and one would like to see it lighted up like Chatsworth at Christmas
+time. But with the setting sun shining on the windows it looks a blaze
+of light&mdash;a huge beacon in the distance. With the exception of the
+ornamental stone parapet of the roofs, in which Bess' initials "E.S."
+stand out conspicuously, the mansion is all horizontal and perpendicular
+lines; but the regularity is relieved by the broken outline of the
+garden walls, with their picturesque array of tall halberd-like
+pinnacles.</p>
+
+<p>Like Knole and Ham House, the interior is untouched, and every room is
+in the same condition since the time of its erection. Some of the
+wonderful old furniture came from the older Chatsworth House, including,
+as before stated, the bedroom furniture of Mary Queen of Scots. Nowhere
+in England may be seen finer tapestries than at Hardwick; they give a
+wealth of colour to the interior, and in the Presence-chamber the
+parget-work in high relief is also richly coloured. Here is Queen
+Elizabeth's State chair overhung by a canopy, and the Royal arms and
+supporters are depicted on the pargeting. The tapestries lining the
+walls of the grand stone staircase are superb, and the silk needlework
+tapestry in some of the smaller rooms a feast of colour. Everywhere are
+the grandest old cushioned chairs and settees, and inlaid cabinets and
+tables. The picture-gallery extends the entire length of the house, and
+abounds in historical portraits, including Bess of Hardwick dressed in
+black, perhaps for one of her many husbands, with a black head-dress,
+large ruff, and chain of pearls. Here also is a full-length portrait of
+her rival, the luckless queen, very sad and very pale, painted, during
+her nineteen years of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span>captivity, at Sheffield in 1678, and a portrait of
+her little son James at the age of eight,&mdash;a picture sent to comfort the
+poor mother in her seclusion. The future king's cold indifference to his
+mother's fate was not the least unpleasant trait of his selfish
+character. In a discourse between Sir John Harrington and the monarch,
+the latter did his best to avoid any reference to the poor queen's fate;
+but he might have saved himself the trouble, for he was more affected by
+the superstitious omens preceding her execution. His Highness, he says,
+"told me her death was visible in Scotland before it did really happen,
+being, as he said, spoken of in secret by those whose power of sight
+presented to them a bloody head dancing in the air." From James we may
+turn to little Lady Arabella Stuart in a white gown, nursing a doll in
+still more antiquated costume, in blissful ignorance of her unhappy
+future. She was the granddaughter of Bess of Hardwick, and was born at
+Chatsworth close upon the time when the Queen of Scots was there.
+Looking at these two portraits of this baby and the boy, it is difficult
+to imagine that the latter should have sent his younger cousin to linger
+away her life and lose her reason in the Tower from the fact that she
+had the misfortune to be born a Stuart.</p>
+
+<p>Horace Walpole in speaking of this room says: "Here and in all the great
+mansions of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>that age is a gallery remarkable only for its extent." But
+it is remarkable for its two huge fireplaces of black marble and
+alabaster, for its fine moulded plaster ceiling, for its
+fifteenth-century tapestry, and quaint Elizabethan easy-chairs. The
+great hall is a typical one of the period, with open screen and
+balustraded gallery, a flat ceiling, big open fireplace, and walls
+embellished with antlers and ancient pieces of armour. When the mansion
+was completed in 1597 the older one was discarded and the furniture
+removed, and the walls were gradually allowed to fall into ruin. It is
+now but a shell; but one may get a good idea of the style of building
+and extent, as well as of the internal decorations. It appears to be of
+Tudor date, almost Elizabethan in character, and over the wide
+fireplaces are colossal figures in bold relief, emblematic, perhaps, of
+the giant energy of Bess of Hardwick, who spent the greater part of her
+lifetime in those old rooms. Tradition says she died immensely rich, but
+without a friend. She survived her fourth husband seventeen years and
+was interred in the church of All-Saints', Derby, where the mural
+monument of her recumbent effigy had been erected under her own
+superintendence.</p>
+
+<p>To the south-west of Hardwick, and midway between Derby and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> Sheffield,
+are the ruinous remains of another old residence of Lord Shrewsbury's,
+associated with the captivity of Mary Queen of Scots. This is South
+Wingfield manor-house, whither she was removed from Tutbury Castle prior
+to her first sojourn at Chatsworth, and whence she was removed back to
+Tutbury in 1585. By this time Shrewsbury had freed himself of the
+responsible custodianship: a thankless and trying office, for Elizabeth
+was ever suspicious that he erred on the side of leniency. A letter
+addressed from Wingfield Manor, from Sir Ralph Sadleir to John Manners,
+among the Belvoir manuscripts, and dated January 6, 1584-85, runs as
+follows: "The queenes majestie hath given me in chardge to remove the
+Queene of Scots from hence to Tutbury, and to the end she should be the
+better accompanyed and attended from thither, her highness hath
+commanded me to gyve warning to some of the gentlemen of best reputation
+in this contry to prepare themselfs to attend upon her at the time of
+her removing. I have thought good to signify the same unto you emonge
+others, and to require you on her Majesties behalf to take so much paine
+as to be heere at Wingfield upon wednesday the xiiith of this moneth at
+a convenient tyme before noone to attend upon the said queene the same
+day to Derby and the next day after to Tutbury." Of the State apartments
+occupied by her there are no remains beyond an external wall, but the
+battlemented tower with which they communicated, and from which th<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span>e
+royal prisoner is said to have been in secret touch with her friends, is
+still tolerably perfect.</p>
+
+<p>In the Civil War the brave old manor-house stood out stoutly for the
+Royalists, but at length was taken by Lord Grey. The governor, Colonel
+Dalby, was on the point of making his escape from the stables in
+disguise when he was recognised and shot. The stronghold shortly
+afterwards was dismantled, but in Charles II.'s reign was patched up
+again and made a residence, and so it continued until little more than a
+century ago. The village of Ashover, midway between Wingfield and
+Chesterfield, is charmingly situated on the river Amber amidst most
+picturesque scenery. Here in 1660, says the parish register, a certain
+Dorothy Mady "forswore herself, whereupon the ground opened and she sank
+overhead!" There are some old tombs to the Babingtons, of which family
+was Anthony of Dethick-cum-Lea, nearer Matlock, where are slight remains
+of the old family seat incorporated in a farmhouse. As is well known, it
+was the seizure of the Queen of Scots' correspondence with this young
+desperado, who with Tichborne, Salisbury, and other associates was
+plotting Elizabeth's assassination, that hastened her tragic end at
+Fotheringay.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Bolsover Castle, which lies directly north of Hardwick, has a style of
+architecture peculiar to itself. It is massive, and grim, and
+prison-like, with a strange array of battlements and pinnacles; and Bess
+of Hardwick showed her genius in making it as different as possible from
+her other residences. And the interior is as fantastic and original as
+the exterior. Altogether there is something suggestive of the fairy-tale
+castle; and the main entrance, guarded by a giant overhead and bears on
+either side, has something ogre-like about it. The rooms are vaulted and
+supported by pillars, some of them in imitation of the earlier castle of
+the eleventh and twelfth centuries. They are a peculiar mixture of
+early-English and Renaissance, but the effect is very pleasing and
+picturesque. The main arches of the ceiling of the "Pillar parlour" are
+panelled and rest on Elizabethan vaulting-shafts, and the ribs are
+centred in heavy bosses. The semicircular intersections of the walls are
+wainscoted walnut wood, richly gilt and elaborately carved, and there
+are early-Jacobean hooded fireplaces and queer old painted and inlaid
+doors and window-shutters. The largest of these rooms is the "Star
+chamber," so called from the golden stars on the ceiling depicted on
+blue ground, representing the firmament. In <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>these gorgeous rooms Charles
+I. was sumptuously entertained by the first Duke of Newcastle. In what
+is called the "Riding house," a roofless Jacobean ruin of fine
+proportions, Ben Jonson's masque, <i>Love's Welcome</i>, was performed before
+the king and queen. Clarendon speaks of the stupendous entertainment
+(that cost some fifteen thousand pounds) and excess of feasting, which,
+he says, "God be thanked!&mdash;no man ever after imitated." The duke (then
+marquis), who had been the king's tutor, was a playwriter of some
+repute, though Pepys does not speak highly of his ability, saying his
+works were silly and tedious.<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> His eccentric wife had also literary
+inclinations, and wrote, among other things, a high-flown biography of
+her spouse, which the Diarist said showed her to be "a mad, conceited,
+ridiculous woman, and he an asse to suffer her to write what she writes
+to him and of him." This romantic and theatrical lady was one of the
+sights of London when she came to town in her extravagant and antiquated
+dress, and always had a large crowd around her. The practical joke
+played upon her at the ball at Whitehall, mentioned in de Gramont's
+<i>Memoirs</i>, is amusing, but commands our sympathy, and is a specimen of
+the bad taste of Society at the time.</p>
+
+<p>The romantic situation of the castle, perched upon a steep pro<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span>montory
+overlooking a dense mass of trees, must have been quite to the old
+duchess's taste; and one can picture her walking in state in the curious
+old gardens as she appears in her theatrical-looking portrait at
+Welbeck. According to local tradition there is a subterranean passage
+leading from the castle to the church, which was formerly entered by a
+secret staircase running from the servants' hall; and there are stories
+of a hidden chapel beneath the crypt, and ghosts in Elizabethan ruffles.
+The Cavendish Chapel in the church was erected by Bess of Hardwick's
+younger son, Sir Charles Cavendish, father of the first Duke of
+Newcastle, and contains his tomb, a gorgeous Jacobean monument.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="ILL_093" id="ILL_093"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_093.jpg" width="500" height="207" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">GARLANDS, ASHFORD CHURCH.<br />(<i>Photo by Rev. J. R. Luxmoore.</i>)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some of the remote villages in the wild and beautiful Peak district have
+strong faith in their traditional superstitions and customs. An<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span>
+excellent way for a young damsel to discover who her future husband is
+to be is to go to the churchyard on St. Valentine's Eve, and when the
+clock strikes the hour of midnight, if she runs round the church she
+will see the happy man running after her. It has never been known to
+fail, perhaps from the fact that it has never been tried, for it is very
+doubtful if a girl could be found in Derbyshire or any other county with
+sufficient pluck to test it. An old remedy for the toothache was to
+attract the "worm" into a glass of water by first inhaling the smoke of
+some dried herbs. Those who had plenty of faith, and some imagination,
+have actually seen the tiny offender. Maypoles and the parish stocks are
+still to be found in nooks and corners of the Peak and farther south,
+and that pretty custom once prevailed of hanging garlands in memory of
+the village maidens who died young. From a little crown made of
+cardboard, with paper rosettes and ornaments, pairs of gloves cut out of
+paper were suspended fingers downwards, with the name of the young
+deceased and her age duly recorded upon them. And so they hang from the
+oak beams of the roof. In Ashford church, near Haddon, there is quite a
+collection of them suspended from a pole in the north aisle. The oldest
+dates from 1747, but the custom was discontinued about ninety years ago.
+In Hampshire, however, these "virgins' crowns" are still made. At the
+ancient village church of Abbotts Ann, near Andover, there are about
+forty of them, and only the other day one was added with due ceremony.
+The garland was made of thin wood covered with paper, and decorated with
+black and white rosettes, with fine paper gloves suspended in the
+middle. It was carried before the coffin by two young girls dressed in
+white, with white shawls and hoods, who each held one end of a white
+wand from which the crown depended. During the service it was placed
+upon the coffin by one of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> bearers, and at the close was again
+suspended from the wand and borne to the grave. It was afterwards laid
+on a thin iron rod branching from a small shield placed high up on the
+wall of the nave of the church. One of these garlands may still be seen
+in St. Albans Abbey.</p>
+
+<p>Another pretty custom is that of "well-dressing," which yet survives at
+the village of Tissington above Ashbourne, and of recent years has been
+revived in other Derbyshire villages, like the modern modified May-day
+festivities. It dates from the time of the Emperor Nero, when the
+philosopher Lucius Seneca told the people that they should show their
+gratitude to the natural springs by erecting altars and offering
+sacrifices. The floral tributes of to-day, which are placed around the
+wells and springs on Holy Thursday, are of various devices, made mostly
+of wild flowers bearing biblical texts; and the village maidens take
+these in formal procession and present them after a little consecration
+service in the church. One would like to see this pretty custom revived
+in other counties.</p>
+
+<p>At Hathersage, beautifully situated among the hills some eight miles
+above Bakewell, Oak Apple Day is kept in memory by suspending a wreath
+of flowers on one of the pinnacles of the church tower. The interior,
+with its faded green baize-lined box-pews duly labelled with brass
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span>plates bearing the owners' names, has a charming old-world appearance.
+In the church is a fine altar-tomb and brasses to the Eyres of North
+Lees, an ancient house among the hills of the Hoodbrook valley.</p>
+
+<p>The ancient ceremony of rush-bearing at Glossop, formerly connected with
+the church, has, we understand, degenerated into a "public-house show";
+which is a pity. In Huntingdonshire, however, there was until some years
+back a somewhat similar custom of strewing green rushes, from the banks
+of the river Ouse, on the floor of the old church of Fenstanton, near
+St. Ives; but in Old Weston, in the same county, newly mown grass is
+still strewn upon the floor of the parish church upon the village feast
+Sunday: the festival of St. Swithin. The original ceremony of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span>
+"rush-bearing," a survival of the ancient custom of strewing the floors
+of dwellings with marsh rushes, was a pretty sight. A procession of
+village maidens, dressed in white, carried the bundles of rushes into
+the church (accompanied, of course, by the inevitable band), and hung
+garlands of flowers upon the chancel rails. The festival at Glossop, and
+in places in the adjoining county of Cheshire, however, was more like
+the last survival of May-day: the monopoly of sweeps,&mdash;a cart-load of
+rushes was drawn round the village by gaily bedecked horses with a
+motley band of morris-dancers accompanying it, who, having made a
+collection, resorted to the public-house before taking their bundles to
+the church. Had they reversed the order of things it is possible the
+custom in some places would have been suffered to continue. Until a
+comparatively recent date the floor of Norwich Cathedral was strewn with
+rushes on Mayor's day; and there is still preserved among the civic
+treasures a wonderful green wickerwork dragon hobby-horse, or rather
+hobby-dragon, with wings, and movable jaws studded with nails for teeth,
+which always made its appearance in the streets on these days of public
+festival.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="NOOKS_IN_YORKSHIRE" id="NOOKS_IN_YORKSHIRE">NOOKS IN YORKSHIRE</a></h2>
+
+<p>In a journey across our largest county, so famous for its grand
+cathedrals and ruined castles and abbeys, one could not wish for greater
+variety either in scenery or association. Between the Queen of Scots'
+prison in Sheffield Manor and the reputed Dotheboys Hall a few miles
+below the mediæval-looking town of Barnard Castle, there is vast
+difference of romance; and yet what more unromantic places than Bowes or
+Sheffield! Indeed, take them all round, the towns and villages of
+Yorkshire have a grey and dreary look about them; and the houses partake
+of the pervading character, or want of character, of the busy
+manufacturing centres. But the natural scenery is quite<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> another matter,
+and with such lovely surroundings one often sighs that the picturesque
+and the utilitarian are so opposed to one another. We do not, however,
+merely allude to the buildings in the southern part of the county, for
+many villages in the prettiest parts have nothing architecturally
+attractive about their houses. The snug creeper-clad cottage, so
+familiar in the south of England, is, comparatively speaking, a rarity,
+and one misses the warmth of colour amid the everlasting grey.</p>
+
+<p>The express having dropped us in nearly the southernmost corner, our
+object is to get out of the busy town of Sheffield as quickly as
+possible; but, as before stated, romance lingers around the remains of
+the ancient seat of the sixth Earl of Shrewsbury, who lies buried in the
+parish church, for under his charge the Scots' queen remained here a
+prisoner for many years; and Wolsey, too, was brought here on his way
+to Leicester.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the road to Barnsley there is little to delay us until we come to a
+turning to the right a couple of miles or so to the south of the town.
+After the continual chimney-shafts the little village of Worsborough is
+refreshing. The church has many points of interest. The entrance porch
+has a fine oak ceiling with carved bosses, and the original oak door i<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>s
+decorated with carved oak tracery. The most interesting thing within is
+the monument to Sir Roger Rockley, a sixteenth-century knight whose
+effigy in armour lies beneath a canopy supported by columns very much
+resembling a four-poster of the time of Henry VII. The similarity is
+heightened by the fact that the tomb is entirely of carved oak, painted
+and gilded. The bed, however, has two divisions, and beneath the
+recumbent wooden effigy of Sir Roger with staring white eyes, is the
+gruesome figure of a skeleton in a shroud, also made more startling by
+its colouring. How the juvenile Worsboroughites must dread this spectre,
+for its position in the church is conspicuous! There is a brass to
+Thomas Edmunds, secretary to William, Earl of Strafford, who lived in
+the manor-house close by, a plain stone gabled house with two wings and
+a small central projection. It is a gloomy looking place, and once
+possessed some gloomy relics of the martyr king, including the stool
+upon which he knelt on Whitehall scaffold. These relics belonged to Sir
+Thomas Herbert, the close attendant upon Charles during the later days
+of his imprisonment, and descended to the Edmunds family by the marriage
+of his widow with Henry Edmunds of Worsborough.<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> The park presumably
+has become public property, and the road running th<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span>rough it is much
+patronised by the black-faced gentlemen of the neighbouring collieries.
+Nor are the ladies of the mining districts picturesque, although they
+seem to affect the costume of the dames of old Peru by showing scarcely
+more than an eye beneath their shawls.</p>
+
+<p>Some three miles to the west of Worsborough is Wentworth Castle (a
+successor to the older castle, the remains of which stood on the high
+ground above), called by some Stainborough Hall to distinguish it from
+Wentworth Woodhouse. The historic house stands high, commanding fine
+views, but marred by mining chimney-shafts on the adjacent hills. The
+exterior of the mansion is classic and formal, and exteriorly there is
+little older than the time of George I.; the interior, however, takes us
+back another century or more, and the panelled porters' hall and carved
+black oak staircase were old when powdered wigs were introduced. In
+Queen Anne's State rooms and in the cosy ante-chambers there are rich
+tapestries, wonderful old cabinets, and costly china, reminding one of
+the treasures of Holland House. But the finest room is the picture
+gallery, one hundred and eighty feet in length and twenty-four feet in
+breadth, and very lofty. The ceiling represents the sky with large gold
+stars, and has a curious effect of making it appear much higher than it
+really is. It belongs to the time of the second Earl of Strafford, who
+built all <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span>this part of the house. The unfortunate first earl looks down
+from the wall with dark melancholy eyes: a face full of character and
+determination, and different vastly from the dreamy weakness revealed in
+the profile of the sovereign who cut his head off. The despotic ruler of
+Ireland is said to walk the chambers of the castle with his head under
+his arm, which, strangely enough, seems to be the fashion with
+decapitated ghosts; and Strafford is a busy ghost, for he has to divide
+his haunting among two other mansions, Wentworth Woodhouse and Temple
+Newsam. Here is Oliver, too, who made as great a mistake as Charles did
+by resorting to the axe. The young Earl of Pembroke looks handsome in
+his long fair ringlets; and so does the youthful Henrietta, Baroness
+Wentworth (a pretty childish figure fondling a dog), whose end was every
+way as tragic as her kinsman's.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the bedrooms are named after birds and flowers, a pretty idea
+that we have not met elsewhere. The colour blue predominates in those we
+call to mind, namely, the "Blue-tit room," the "Kingfisher room," the
+"Peacock room," the "Cornflower room," and the "Forget-me-not room."
+Just outside the park, near a house that was formerly kept as a
+menagerie, is a comfortable old-fashioned inn, the "Strafford Arms,"
+the landlord of which was butler to two generations of the
+Vernon-Wentworths, and in c<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span>onsequence he is quite an authority on
+genealogical matters; and where his memory does not serve, has Debrett
+handy at his elbow. Being a Somersetshire man he has brought the
+hospitality of the western counties with him to the northern heights. He
+points with pride to the cricket-ground behind the inn, the finest
+"pitch" in Yorkshire.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_094" id="ILL_094"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_094.jpg" width="400" height="303" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">TOMB, DARFIELD CHURCH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Let us avoid the town of Barnsley and turn eastwards towards Darfield,
+whose interest is centred in its church. The ceilings of the aisles,
+presumably like the picture gallery at Wentworth Castle, are supposed to
+represent the heavens, but the colour is inclined to be sea-green, and
+the clouds and stars are feathery. A fine Perpendicular font is
+surmounted by an elaborate Jacobean cover; opposite, at the east
+end of the church, is a fine but rather dilapidated tomb of a
+fourteenth-century knight and his dame, and the effigy of the latter
+gives a good idea of the costume of Richard II.'s time. Upon a wooden
+stand close by there is a chained Bible, and the support looks so light
+that one would think the whole could be carried off bodily, until one
+tries its prodigious weight.</p>
+
+<p>Another tomb, of the Willoughbys of Parham, bears upon it some strange
+devices, including an owl with a crown <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>upon its head. The
+seventeenth-century oak pews and some earlier ones with carved
+bench-ends, add considerably to the interest of the interior. The
+ancient coffer in the vestry, as well as a carved oak chest and chairs,
+must not pass unnoticed.</p>
+
+<p>Barnborough to the east, and Great Houghton to the north-east, are both
+famous in their way; the former for a traditional fight between a man
+and a wild cat, which for ferocity knocked points off the Kilkenny
+record. The Hall was once the property of Sir Thomas More (another of
+those beheaded martyrs who are doomed to walk the earth with their heads
+under their arms), and contains a "priest's hole," which, had it existed
+in the Chancellor's day, might have tempted him to try and save his
+life. Great Houghton Hall, the ancient seat of the Roders (a brass to
+whom may be seen in Darfield church), is now an inn, indeed has been an
+inn for over half a century. Once having been a stately mansion, it has
+an air of mystery and romance; and there are rumours that before it
+lost caste, in the transition stage between private and public life, one
+of its chambers remained draped in black, in mourning for the Earl of
+Strafford's beheading on Tower Hill in 1641. It is a huge b<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>uilding of
+many mullioned windows and pinnacled gables; but within the last two
+years the upper part of the big bays of the front have been destroyed,
+and a verandah introduced which spoils this side, and whoever planned
+this alteration can have had but little reverence for ancient buildings.
+The rooms on the ground floor are mostly bare; but ascending a wide
+circular stone staircase, with carved oak arches overhead, there are
+pleasant surprises in store. You step into the spacious "Picture
+gallery," devoid of ancestral portraits truly, but with panelled walls
+and Tudor doorways. The mansion was stripped of its furniture over a
+century and a half ago, but there are chairs of the Chippendale period
+to compensate, and a great wardrobe of the Stuart period too big
+presumably to get outside. Two bedrooms are panelled from floor to
+ceiling and have fine overmantels, one of which has painted panels
+depicting "Life" and "Death." But a great portion of the house is
+dilapidated, and to see its ornamental plaster ceilings one would have
+to risk disappearing through the floors below, like the demon in the
+pantomime. Mine host of the "Old Hall Inn" is genuinely sympathetic, and
+is quite of the opinion that the oak fittings that have been removed
+would look best in their original position; and this is only natural,
+for he has lived there all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> his life, and his mother was born in the
+house; and he proudly points at the Jacobean pew in the adjacent church
+where as a child he sat awestruck, holding his grandfather's hand while
+the good old gentleman took his forty winks. The little church in its
+cabbage-grown enclosure is quite an untouched gem, with formal array of
+seventeenth-century pews with knobby ends, a fine carved oak pulpit and
+sounding-board. Its exterior is non-ecclesiastical in appearance, with
+rounded stone balustrade ornamentation. While photographing the building
+an interested party observed that he had lived at Houghton all his life,
+but had never observed there was a door on that side,&mdash;a proof that
+residents in a place rarely see the most familiar objects. Nevertheless,
+he discovered the door of the "Old Hall," and entered.</p>
+
+<p>Pontefract Castle, so rich in historical associations, is disappointing,
+because there is so little of it left. It is difficult in these
+fragmentary but ponderous walls to imagine the fortress as it appeared
+in the days of Elizabeth. From an ancient print of that time it looks
+like a fortified city, with curious pinnacles and turrets upon its many
+towers. The great round towers of the keep had upon the summit quite a
+collection, like intermediate pawns and castles from a chessboard. The
+curtain walls connected seven round towers, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>and there were a multitude
+of square towers within. There is something very suggestive of the
+Duncan-Macbeth stronghold in the narrow stairway between those giant
+rounded towers. It is like a tomb, and one shudders at the thought of
+the "narrow damp chambers" in the thickness of the wall of the Red
+Tower, where tradition says King Richard II. was done to death. By the
+irony of fate it was the lot of many proud barons during some part of
+their career to occupy the least desirable apartment of their castles;
+and thus it was with Edward II.'s cousin, Thomas Plantagenet, Earl of
+Lancaster, who from his own dungeon was brought forth to be beheaded. In
+a garden near the highwayman's resort, Ferrybridge, above Pontefract,
+may be seen a stone coffin which was dug up in a field on the outskirts
+of the castle, and supposed to be that of the unfortunate earl. At
+Pontefract, too, Lord Rivers, Sir Thomas Vaughan, Sir Richard Grey, and
+others were hurried into another world by the Protector Richard; so
+altogether the castle holds a good record for deeds of darkness, and the
+creepy feeling one has in that narrow stairway between those massive
+walls is fully justified by past events. The old castle held out stoutly
+for the king in the Civil Wars. For many months, in 1645, it stood a
+desperate siege by Fairfax and General Poyntz before the garrison
+capitulated. Three years later it was captured again for the Royalists
+by Colonel Morrice, and held with great ga<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span>llantry against General
+Lambert even after the execution of Charles I. In the March following,
+the stronghold surrendered, saving Morrice and five others who had not
+shown mercy to Colonel Rainsborough when he fell into their hands. These
+six had the option of escaping if they could within a week. "The
+garrison," says Lord Clarendon, "made several sallies to effect the
+desired escape, in one of which Morrice and another escaped; in another,
+two more got away; and when the six days were expired and the other two
+remained in the castle, their friends concealed them so effectually,
+with a stock of provisions for a month, that rendering the castle and
+assuring Lambert that the six were all gone, and he was unable to find
+them after the most diligent search, and had dismantled the castle, they
+at length got off also." There are still some small chambers hewn out of
+the solid rock on which the castle is built, reached by a subterranean
+passage on the north side; and perhaps here was the successful
+lurking-place. Colonel Morrice and his companion, Cornet Blackburn, were
+afterwards captured in disguise at Lancaster.</p>
+
+<p>In the pleasure gardens of to-day, with various inscription boards
+specifying the position of the Clifford Tower, Gascoyne's Tower, the
+King's Tower, and so forth, we get but a hazy idea of this once<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span>
+practically impregnable fortress, covering an area of seven acres.
+Concerning Richard II.'s death, it is doubtful whether the truth will
+ever be arrived at. The story that he escaped, and died nineteen years
+afterwards in Scotland, is less likely than the supposition that he died
+from the horrors of starvation; on the other hand, the story of the
+attack by Sir Piers Exton's assassins is almost strengthened by the
+evidence of a seventeenth-century tourist, who, prior to its destruction
+in the Civil War, records: "The highest of the seven towers is the Round
+Tower, in which that unfortunate prince was enforced to flee round a
+poste till his barbarous butchers inhumanly deprived him of life. <i>Upon
+that poste the cruell hackings and fierce blowes doe still remaine.</i>"
+Mr. Andrew Lang perhaps can solve this historic mystery; or perhaps he
+has already done so? New Hall, close at hand, must have been a grand old
+house; but it is now roofless, and crumbling to decay. It is a
+picturesque late-Tudor mansion, with a profusion of mullioned windows
+and a central bay. The little glass that remains only adds to its
+forlorn appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Ferrybridge and Brotherton both have an old-world look. The latter
+place is famous for the battle fought there between Yorkists and
+Lancastrians; and as the birthplace of Thomas de Brotherton, the fifth
+son of King Edward<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> I. The old inns of Ferrybridge recall the prosperous
+coaching days; but the revival of business on the road which has been
+brought about by cycle and motor, will have but little effect on this
+village with a past. The hostelry by the fine stone bridge that gives
+the place its name, has a past connected with notorious gentlemen of the
+road, and an entry in an old account-book runs as follows: "A traveller
+in a gold-laced coat ordered and drank two bottles of wine&mdash;doubtless
+mischief to-night, for the traveller, methinks, is that villain Dick
+Turpyn." How vividly this recalls that excellent picture by Seymour
+Lucas, R.A., where a landlord of the Joe Willet type is eyeing, between
+the whiffs from his long churchwarden, a suspicious guest, who having
+tasted mine host's vintage has dropped asleep, regardless of the fact
+that his brace of flintlocks are conspicuously visible.</p>
+
+<p>Between here and Leeds are two fine mansions, Ledston Hall and Kippax
+Park. The former is a very uncommon type of Elizabethan architecture,
+almost un-English in character. It is a stone-built house of the time of
+James I., with Dutch-like gables and narrow square towers. In the reign
+of Charles I. it belonged to Thomas, Earl of Strafford; but his son, the
+second earl, sold the estate. Kippax in its way is original in
+construction, but savours somewhat of Strawberry Hill Gothic. The
+ancient family of Bland have been seated her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span>e since the time of
+Elizabeth, the direct male line, however, dying out in the middle of the
+eighteenth century. Sir Thomas Bland was one of the gallant Royalists
+who defended Pontefract Castle during the Civil War.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles to the north-west is the grand old mansion, Temple Newsam.
+Like Hatfield House, which in many respects it resembles, it is built of
+red-brick with stone coigns, and the time-toned warm colour is
+acceptable in this county of grey stone. It was built like many
+so-called Elizabethan houses in the reign of James I., and, like Castle
+Ashby, has around the three sides of the quadrangle a parapet of letters
+in open stone work which runs as follows: "All glory and praise be given
+to God the Father, the Son, and Holy Ghost on high, peace on earth,
+goodwill towards men, honour and true allegiance to our gracious king,
+loving affections amongst his subjects, health and plenty within this
+house." The loyal sentiments are not those of Mary Queen of Scots'
+husband, Lord Darnley, who was born in the earlier house, but of the
+builder, Sir Anthony Ingram, who bought the estate from the Duke of
+Lennox. Of all the spacious rooms, the picture gallery is the finest.
+It is over a hundred feet in length and contains a fine collection of
+old masters and some remarkable china. Albert Durer's hard and
+microsco<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span>pic art is well represented, as well as the opposite extreme in
+Rembrandt's breadth of style. But the gem of all is a head by Reynolds
+(of, we think, a Lady Gordon), a picture that connoisseurs would rave
+about. A small picture of Thomas Ingram is almost identical with that of
+the Earl of Pembroke we have mentioned at Wentworth Castle. In one of
+the bedrooms (famous for their tapestry hangings and ancient beds) are
+full-length portraits of Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth, and James
+I., the first like the well-known portraits at Hardwick and Welbeck. On
+one of the staircases is an interesting picture of Henrietta, Duchess of
+Orleans, in a turban, with the favourite spaniel who appears in many of
+her portraits. She holds in her hand the picture of her lord and master,
+the duke who was so jealous of her. A new grand staircase with
+elaborately carved newels, after the style of that at Hatfield, has been
+added to the mansion recently, and harmonises admirably with its more
+ancient surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>The park is fine and extensive, but beyond, the signs of the proximity
+of busy Leeds obtrude and spoil the scenery. We went from here to the
+undesirable locality of Hunslet in search of a place called Knowsthorpe
+Hall, but had some considerable difficulty in finding it, for nobody
+seemed to know i<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>t by that name. "You warnts the Island," observed a
+mining gentleman, a light dawning upon him. So we got nearer by
+inquiring for "the Island," but then the clue was lost. Thousands of
+factory hands were pouring out of a very unlikely looking locality, but
+nobody knew such a place. In desperation we plunged into a primitive
+coffee-stall, around which black bogies were sitting at their mid-day
+meal. One of them with more intelligence than the rest knew the place,
+but couldn't describe how to get to it. "Go up yon road," he said, "and
+ask for 'Whitakers.'" We followed the advice, and at the turning asked
+for 'Whitakers.' "Is it the dressmakers ye mean?" was the reply of a
+small boy to whom we put the question. "Yes," we said, in entire
+ignorance whether it was the dressmakers or the almanac people. But
+having got so far there were landmarks that did the rest, and presently
+a big entrance gate was seen with painted on its side-pillars,
+"Knowsthorpe Olde Hall."</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 345px;"><a name="ILL_095" id="ILL_095"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_095.jpg" width="345" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">GATEWAY, KNOWSTHORPE HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But there was no Island, not even a moat. The smoke of Leeds has given
+the stone walls a coat of black, but otherwise it is not unpicturesque,
+and would be more so if this original gateway remained. Within the last
+two years this has been removed as well as the steps leading down from
+the terrace. The gateway was called the "Stone Chairs," because of the
+niches or seats on either side of it. It is <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span>now, we understand, at Hoare
+Cross, near Burton-on-Trent. There is much oak within the house, and one
+panelled room has a very fine carved mantelpiece. The oak staircase,
+too, is graceful as well as uncommon in design. Close against one side
+of the house is a stone archway with sculptured figures of the time of
+James I. on either side of it, and the old lady in charge related the
+history of this happy pair, how the gentleman had wooed the damsel (a
+Maynard), but as he had not been to the wars she would have nothing to
+say to him. Consequently he buckled on his sword and engaged in the
+nearest battle; and to prove his valour, brought back with him as a
+love-token the arm which he had lost,&mdash;a statement sounding somewhat
+contradictory. Naturally after that she fell into his&mdash;other arm, and
+accepted him on the spot. This daughter of Mars, of course, now
+"revisits the glimpses of the moon" with her lover's arm, not around her
+waist in the ordinary fashion, but in her hand; and those who doubt the
+story may see her effigy thus represented. But the dignity of this happy
+pair is somewhat marred, for the only use to which they are now put is
+to form a stately entrance to&mdash;a hen-coop!</p>
+
+<p>There are some interesting old houses between Leeds and Otley, the "Low"
+Halls of Rawdon and Yeadon, for instance. The former<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> is a good
+Elizabethan house, and contains some interesting rooms. Low Hall,
+Yeadon, dates farther back, though its chief characteristics are of the
+same period. The interior is rich in ancient furniture, and there are
+some Knellers, which the artist is said to have painted on the spot. The
+saturnine features of the Merry Monarch are to be seen on one side of
+the huge Tudor fireplace, and near at hand Nell Gwyn, probably a more
+correct likeness than a flattering one. There are ancient cabinets,
+chests, and tables contemporary with the house; and what is more
+interesting still, the cabinets and chests contain relics of Mary Queen
+of Scots, and the ruffs and collars that were fashionable three
+centuries ago. A gallery, wainscoted with large panels of a later
+period, extends the length of the house; and at the western extremity of
+it a bedroom, also panelled, possesses a hiding-place or secret cupboard
+which it would baffle the most persevering to discover, but when the
+panel is pushed aside, the trick of it looks so very simple. Of the
+Stuart relics we shall speak presently in referring to Mary Queen of
+Scots' imprisonment at Bolton Castle.</p>
+
+<p>Passing through Guiseley, which is situated in the midst of worsted
+mills, with the stocks by a lamp-post in the middle of the street as if
+they were a present-day necessity, you climb a hill and then come
+suddenly upon a lovely view, with Otley, "the Switzerland of Yorkshire,"
+lying<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span> in the Wharfe valley below. The Chevin Hill is over nine hundred
+feet in height, and from it you are supposed to see York Cathedral on
+one side and the mountains of Westmoreland on the other. As the Chevin
+is the lion of the place, it is the duty of visitors to go to the top.
+Alpine climbers may enjoy this sort of task, but there are some people
+who do not even wish to say that they have seen a city some
+six-and-twenty miles away; but such as these who go to Otley and do not
+inconvenience themselves would be looked upon by the Otleyites with
+pity. But there is another thing which the town is proud of too, and
+that is its lofty Maypole, which, standing in a firm socket of stone, is
+guarded round by iron rails. There are far more Maypoles in Yorkshire
+than in any other county, and it is pleasing to find the people are thus
+conservative; though truly when they get blown down, they don't often
+trouble themselves enough to put them up again. There are some
+interesting monuments in the church, one on the right of the chancel to
+General Fairfax's grandparents, two stately recumbent effigies of James
+I.'s time. There are mural monuments to the Fawkeses of Farnley Hall (a
+much altered Elizabethan mansion, containing Cromwellian relics: the
+Lord Protector's hat, sword, and watch, and Fairfax's drum) and a
+Vavasour of Weston Hall, who was a philanthropist in his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> way, for he was
+buried in wool to promote the local trade. He is represented on his
+monument neatly packed, and looks so cosy that the bas-relief is
+suggestive of the undertaker's advertisement, "Why live and be wretched
+when you can be buried comfortably for five pound ten?" In the vestry
+there is a splendid set of old oak chairs of which the verger is not a
+little proud.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_096" id="ILL_096"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_096.jpg" width="400" height="338" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">LEATHLEY STOCKS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A pleasant meadow walk by the riverside leads to Leathley, which has a
+Norman church, but can scarcely be called a village, for there is no
+inn. A formidable pair of stocks stand ready by the churchyard; but as
+nothing stronger than milk can be procured, they have not been worn out
+with too much work. Again, at Weston on the other side of the Wharfe
+river we come across the roadside stocks (like the usual Yorkshire type,
+with two uprights of stone) by the spreading roots of an ancient tree.
+Weston Hall is a long low Tudor building, with at one end a broad bay of
+three storeys. An old banqueting-house in the grounds is ornamented
+with shields of arms; and formerly the windows of it were full of
+heraldic stained glass, some of which is now in the windows of the Hall.
+From here we went northwards in search of Swinsty Hall, over a lonely
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span>moorland district. The road goes up and up until you are not surprised
+when you come to a signpost pointing to "To Snowdon." To the left, you
+are told, leads to "Blubberhouses," wherever that may be. For preference
+we chose the latter road, and soon got completely lost in the wilds. The
+only sign of civilisation was a barn, where we had the fortune to find
+an old man who presumably spoke the pure dialect, for we couldn't make
+head or tail of it. "Swinsty&mdash;ai, you go on ter road until it is," was
+the direction he gave, and we went on and until it <i>wasn't</i>. At length,
+however, after plodding knee deep in marshy land and saturated heather,
+we found the object of our search perched in a lonely meadow above a
+wide stretch of water. It looked as if it had a gloomy history; and no
+wonder that some of the upper rooms are held in awe, for there the ghost
+of a person with the unromantic name of Robinson is said to count over
+his ill-gotten gains, which he brought down from London in waggons when
+the Plague of 1666 was raging. He had the good fortune to escape
+contamination, and once back with his plundered wealth he meant to have
+what nowadays we call "a good time"; but the story has a moral, for it
+got winded abroad how he got his gold, and nobody would have anything to
+do with him or his money, and by the irony of fate he had to spend the
+rest of his days in trying to wash away the germs of infection.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_097" id="ILL_097"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_097.jpg" width="400" height="292" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">STOCKS AT WESTON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>hall is entered through a spacious porch in the roof of which is
+hung an enormous bell. The room you enter is by no means gloomy. A
+carved oak staircase with balustrade of peculiar form leads to other
+rooms panelled to the ceiling, with fine overmantels. The leads of the
+small window-panes are of fanciful design; one bears the date 1627 and
+the initials I. W. H., and these occur again with the date 1639 in some
+oak carving in one of the bedrooms. A "well" stone staircase between
+rough-hewn stone walls leads up to the attics, which have open timber
+roofs with semicircular span to the main beams. They look as if they
+were but recently put up, so fresh does the wood look, and the pegs that
+join the timbers still protrude as if they had just been hammered in,
+and awaited the workman's axe to cut them level. A word upon the subject
+of these old roofs may not be out of place. When old houses are
+restored, of course it is the proper thing to open out an original
+timber roof where the original hall or chamber has been divided and
+partitioned, but in so many instances nowadays flat ceilings are
+removed to show the open timbers which were <i>never intended to be
+seen</i>. Bedrooms are thus made cold and bare, with not nearly enough
+protection from the draughts from the tiles. The attics at Swinsty are a
+proof of this, there being no great distance between the floor and the
+roof. Another thing, if the floors were done away with here, Mr.
+Robinson would have to come<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> down a storey, and that is not desirable.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_098" id="ILL_098"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_098.jpg" width="400" height="260" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">SWINSTY HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the way to Swinsty, by the bye, a ruinous house is passed on the
+right about midway between there and Otley. It is of no great
+architectural interest, but is singular in construction, having a
+projecting turret containing a spiral staircase at the back, which
+presumably was the only entrance. It is lofty, and has square windows
+with a bay in the centre, but it is now only a shell. Mr. Ingram in his
+<i>Haunted Homes</i> relates that Dob Park Lodge, as the place is called, is
+reputed to be haunted by a huge black dog who has the power of speech,
+and is said to watch over a hidden treasure in the vaults, like the dog
+with saucer eyes in Hans Andersen. The entrance to these is locally
+supposed to be somewhere at the foot of the winding stair, and so far
+only one person has ventured to explore the depths; but when he did, he
+actually saw a great chest of gold!&mdash;but then we must take into account
+that he was very drunk. Fewston village, not far from Swinsty, is
+picturesquely situated on a knoll above the lake or reservoir; but the
+church, mostly of William III.'s time, has nothing of interest save a
+few stalls and a pretty little font cover. The wooden spiked altar
+rails might almost be the palings of a suburban garden, whilst the crude
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span>square panes of red and blue of the chancel windows should be anywhere
+but in a church.</p>
+
+<p>To the north-east is "Catch'em Corner"; but it is uncertain what is to
+be caught except a chill, for the position is very bleak. Striking
+northwards we get into the delightful Nidd valley. To the right lies
+Ripley, famous for the rood screen, the ancient glass, and Edwardian
+tomb of the Ingilbys of the castle, which Tudor structure surrendered to
+the Parliament a day or so before Marston Moor was fought. Here Cromwell
+is said to have sat up all night before the battle, hob-a-nob with his
+unwilling hostess.</p>
+
+<p>Going northwards from Fewston, the prettiest part of the road to Pateley
+is struck near the village of Dacre. The romantic rocks and glens
+hereabouts are famous, and much frequented by tourists, consequently
+sixpences and threepences have to be frequently disbursed. The price is
+cheap enough, but the romance is spoiled. Hack Fall, near Masham, to the
+north-east, is as lovely a spot as one could wish to see, but there are
+too many signs of civilisation about. It is like taming a lion. The
+guide-book tells you to go along until you get to a "refreshment
+house," which almost reads like an advertisement in disguise.</p>
+
+<p>There is a sculptured Saxon cross in Masham churchyard, and the church
+contains a fine monument to the Wyvells of Burton Constab<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>le manor, an
+old house near Finghall, to the north-west, where members of the family
+are also buried. The famous Jervaulx Abbey ruins nestle in a hollow on
+the right of the road to Middleham. When close upon it we asked the way
+of a yokel, but he shook his head; and then it dawned upon him what we
+meant: "It's Jarvey ye warnt," he said, and pointed straight ahead.
+Scott's worthy, Prior Aylmer, would surely beam with joy at the tender
+care bestowed upon the remains of the establishment over which he once
+presided; and the park might grace the finest modern dwelling, judging
+by the well-kept lawns and walks; but all this trimness looks less
+natural to a ruin than the more rustic surroundings of Easby, for
+example. The remains of the Cistercian monastery are rather fragmentary,
+consisting mainly of some graceful octagonal pillars and a row of lofty
+lancet windows in the wall of the refectory, and some round-headed
+arches of the chapter-house. It was destroyed in 1539, and the beautiful
+screen of the church carried off to Aysgarth, where it may now be seen.</p>
+
+<p>Continuing along the road to Middleham, Danby Hall, the ancient seat of
+the Scropes, is seen in the distance on the right; but the river
+intervenes, and one has to go beyond East Witton before a crossing can
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>be obtained. This village, built on either side of a wide green, has
+nothing out of the common except its Maypole and its very conspicuous
+Blue Lion rampant. A blue lion is a little change after the hackneyed
+red, and the beast looks proud of his originality. Witton probably was
+much prettier before the jubilee celebration of George III.'s reign,
+when the old church and most of the old houses were pulled down.</p>
+
+<p>By the old grey bridge (with the pillar of a sundial in the centre,
+dated 1674) the Cover and Yore Rivers join hands with not a little fuss,
+like the enthusiasm of a new-made friendship. The road to Danby Hall
+runs level with the river then branches to the left. The mansion is
+Elizabethan; but the stone balustrade was added in the middle of the
+seventeenth century, and the small cupola-crowned towers were added
+subsequently. The oldest part is a square tower to the north-east,
+where, in the time of religious persecution, there was a small oratory
+or chapel for secret services. In the heraldic glass of the windows the
+ancient family of Scrope may be traced from Lord Scrope who fought at
+Flodden up to the present day, and their history may be followed by the
+portraits of the various generations on the walls. A curious discovery
+was made here in the early part of the last century. One of the chimneys
+in a stack of four could not be accounted for, and a plummet of lead was
+dropped down each of them, three of which found an outlet but the fourth
+cou<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span>ld not be found. To get at the bottom of the mystery, a not too bulky
+party was lowered down, and he found himself in a small chamber full of
+long cut-and-thrust swords, flintlock pistols, and the ancient saddlery
+of untanned leather for a troop of fifty horse. Not much value was set
+upon such things in those days, so the harness was put to good account
+and utilised for cart-horse gear upon the farm. But the dispersal of the
+ancient weapons has a history too, for at the time that England was
+trembling with the fear of an invasion from the dreaded "Boney," a
+cottage caught light one night on one of the surrounding hills; and this
+being taken as a signal of alarm, the beacon on top of Penhill was
+fired. The terror-stricken villagers rushed everywhere for weapons, but
+none could be provided, and the good squire of Danby speedily
+distributed the secret store which had been hidden in the house for the
+Jacobite insurrection of 1715. In time the yokels returned, and there
+was a week's rejoicing and merry-making that the blazing beacon after
+all had only proved a flash in the pan. The pistols and swords, however,
+were not returned save one, which may still be seen with the armourer's
+marks on the blade, "Shotley" on one side and "Bridge" <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span>on the
+other.<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> Another has found its way into the little museum at Bolton
+Castle. In demolishing a cottage at Middleham it was discovered up in
+the thatch roof, where it was put, perhaps, pending another alarm. The
+hiding-place was converted into a butler's room by Major Scrope's
+grandfather.</p>
+
+<p>Among the portraits are some good Lelys, including two of Sir Carr
+Scrope who was so enamoured of the Court physician's daughter.<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a>
+Another Lely of a handsome girl is said to represent one of the Royalist
+Stricklands of Sizergh. Above the black oak staircase of James I.'s time
+hangs a rare portrait of Mary of Modena; for one seldom sees her when
+the beauty of youth had departed, for naturally she did not like to be
+handed thus down to posterity. The queen looks sour here, which tallies
+with the accounts we have of her in later life; but truly she had cause
+enough to make her sour.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_099" id="ILL_099"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_099.jpg" width="400" height="194" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">MIDDLEHAM CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the Yore River the ground ascends to Middleham, now only a sleepy
+looking village but called a "town." Above the roof-tops at the summit
+of the hill stands the mediæval castle where resided in great pomp that
+turbulent noble, Warwick the "kingmaker." Here it was that he
+imprisoned Edward IV., the monarch he had helped to put upon the throne,
+for daring to marry the widowed daughter of Sir Richard Woodville in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span>
+preference to a Nevill. When, the year after reinstating Henry VI. for a
+brief space, the great feudal baron ended his career on Barnet
+battlefield, his castle at Middleham was handed over by Edward to his
+brother Richard, who had also a claim upon it by his marriage with the
+"kingmaker's" daughter. Here "Crookback," or rather "Crouchback," was
+living before he usurped the Crown in 1483; and here his son the young
+Prince Edward died upon the first anniversary, as a providential
+punishment for the death of his little cousins in the Tower. Richard, by
+the way, is said to have had another natural son who lived into the
+reign of Edward VI. and died in a small house on the Eastwell estate
+near Wye in Kent. Richard Plantagenet's death is duly recorded in the
+parish register, distinguished by the mark of a V, which distinguishes
+other entries of those of noble birth, and a plain tomb in the chancel
+is supposed to be his place of interment. Until an old man he preserved
+his incognito, when Sir Thomas Moyle discovered that a mason at work
+upon his house was none other than a king's son. His youth had been
+spent under charge of a schoolmaster, who had taken him to Bosworth
+field and introduced him into Richard's tent. The king received him in
+his arms and told him he was his father, and if he survived the battle
+he would acknowledge him to be his son; but if fortune should go against
+him, he should on no account reveal who he was. On the following day in
+entering Leice<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span>ster a naked figure lying across a horse's back was
+pointed out to him as the same great person whose star and gaiter had
+inspired him with awe.</p>
+
+<p>The walls of the Norman castle keep are of immense thickness, and
+protected without by others almost as formidable of a later date. The
+great hall was on the first floor, and the tower where little Edward
+Plantagenet was born (the Red Tower) at the south-west corner; but
+tradition hasn't kept alive much to carry the imagination back to the
+time when the powerful Nevill reigned here in his glory. The escape of
+Edward IV. has been made realistic in the immortal bard's <i>King Henry
+VI.</i>, and Scene v. Part iii. might be read in less romantic spots than
+in Wensleydale, with this grand old ruin standing out in the distance
+like one of Doré's castles. In this case, distance "lends enchantment,"
+as Middleham itself is by no means lovely. The ancient market-cross
+would look far less commonplace and tomb-like were the top of it again
+knocked off. The site of the swine market bears the cognosance of
+"Crouchback," which is scarcely a compliment to his memory; but this
+antique monument is put vastly in the shade by a jubilee fountain, the
+only up-to-date thing in the place, and quite out of harmony with the
+ring where bulls were baited within living memory.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 301px;"><a name="ILL_100" id="ILL_100"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_100.jpg" width="301" height="400" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">QUEEN&#39;S GAP, LEYBURN &quot;SHAWL.&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In Spennithorne church, near Middleham, there is an ancient altar-tomb
+of John Fitz-Randolph, of the family of the early lords of the castle
+before the Nevills became possessed of it. Along the font are several
+coloured shields of arms of the various families with whom they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span>
+intermarried. The nave of the church has an odd appearance, as the north
+and south aisles are separated by a series of distinct arches, the
+latter Early English, the former pure Norman. A very interesting
+thirteenth-century screen was originally at Jervaulx Abbey. On the west
+wall there is a large fresco of Father Time, dating perhaps two hundred
+years later. The rector must be commended for hanging in his church a
+brief summary of the points of interest, and many might follow this
+laudable example.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_101" id="ILL_101"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_101.jpg" width="400" height="250" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">BOLTON CASTLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Leyburn stands high among the hills, and must have been a picturesque
+old market-place before the ancient town-hall, market-cross, and two
+stately elms were removed. The great wide street has now a bare and by
+no means attractive appearance, and were it not for the lovely
+surroundings it would not form so popular a centre for exploring. The
+"Shawl," the huge natural terrace, on a rocky base high up above the
+tree-tops of the woods below, is, of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span>course, its great feature, and a
+more delightful walk could not be found in England, with the softest
+turf to walk upon and the glorious panorama in front. Conspicuous among
+the heights is flat-topped Penhill, standing boldly out against the wide
+expanse of dale, upon whose crest are the ruins of a chapel of the old
+Knights Templars. A gap in the rock, with a path running westwards
+through the woods, is known as "Queen's Gap," for Mary Queen of Scots
+when she fled from Bolton Castle got thus far when she was overtaken in
+attempting to urge her horse through the narrow ravine. In consequence
+of this, the "Shawl" locally is said to derive its name from the shawl
+the prisoner dropped upon the way, giving her pursuers a clue; which on
+the face of it is ridiculous, as the name is derived either from the
+Saxon <i>Sholl</i> or Scandinavian <i>Schall</i>. Bolton is some five miles away
+to the west, and the poor captive was to have gone northwards to
+Richmond and thence to her native land; and at Bellerby, between
+Richmond and Leyburn, a halt was to have been made at the Hall, the seat
+of the Royalist family of Scott, where a company of Scots guards was
+stationed ready to receive her. The old Hall still stands on the
+left-hand side of the village green as you enter, and looks as if it had
+a history.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_102" id="ILL_102"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_102.jpg" width="400" height="254" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">BELLERBY OLD HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At Bolton the window may be seen from which she was lowered to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span>
+ground, and one can trace the way she took in a north-easterly direction
+across the rocky bed of the rushing stream into the woods below the
+"Shawl." The window from which she escaped is the upper one of the three
+running horizontally with the south-western tower. There is another
+window to the prison-room which looks into the inner courtyard. The
+apartment is grim and bare, with a small fireplace, and steps leading
+down into a larger bare apartment, once the "drawing-room." Though
+externally the castle is not so picturesque as Middleham, it is much
+more perfect and interesting. The hooded stone fireplaces remain in the
+walls, and various rooms can be located, from the hall and chapel to the
+vault-like stables in the basement. The well, too, is perfect, with
+scooped-out wall to the upper chambers, not forgetting the awful dungeon
+in the solid rock. A large apartment with wide Tudor fireplace has been
+converted into a museum, and the curiosities are of a varied nature,
+from cocking spurs and boxing-gloves from the sporting centres of
+Leyburn and Middleham to the bull-fight banderillos of Spain. There is
+quite an assortment of weird-looking instruments of torture, which,
+after all, are only toasting-dogs, huge cumbrous things like
+antediluvian insects or much magnified microbes. How is it these
+appurtenances of domestic comfort have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> entirely died out like the now
+extinct warming-pan? But this museum can no way be compared with Mr.
+Home's wonderful collections at Leyburn. Here you can learn something
+about everything, for the kindly proprietor of the museum takes a pride
+in describing his curios. Those who have been to Middleham and seen the
+castle immortalised by Shakespere, may here study Edward IV.'s fair
+hair. As rare a curiosity is a valentine of the time of William III.
+From the treasures of Egyptian tombs you skip to the first invented
+matches; from Babylonian inscriptions to early-Victorian samplers. And
+the learned antiquarian relates how he was educated in the old Yore mill
+at Aysgarth by old John Drummond, the grandson of the Jacobite Earl of
+Perth, who had to hide himself in a farm in Bishopdale (How Rig) for his
+hand in the '45, when the Scotch estates were confiscated for aiding the
+cause of the Bonnie Prince. Were it not for Mr. Home's interest in
+old-time customs, the bull-ring in the market-place would have
+disappeared, for the socket was nearly worn through when he had it
+repaired. He relates how at the last bull-baiting the infuriated beast
+got away and sent the whole sportsmen flying, and at length was shot in
+Wensley village.</p>
+
+<p>Wensley nestles in the valley, surrounded by hills. The interior of the
+chu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span>rch is rich in carvings from the ruinous abbey of Easby, near
+Richmond. The stalls from Easby have at the ends exceptionally bold and
+elaborate carvings with heraldic shields and arms, dating from the days
+of Edward IV. A nearly life-size brass, of the third Edward's time, is
+of its kind one of the finest in England,&mdash;an ecclesiastic in robes,
+with crossed hands pointing downwards. By the entrance door is a quaint
+old poor-box; but what first strikes the eye as you enter, is the
+parclose screen from Easby Abbey, which, ill fitting its confined space,
+partially blocks the windows; but the effect of the elaborate carving
+against the tracery is very striking. It is early-Tudor in date, and
+belonged to the Scrope chantry, whose arms appear upon it, with those of
+Fitz-Hugh, Marmion, and other noble families. Within this screen,
+evidently a good many years later, a manorial pew was made, the side of
+which is within the parclose. To amalgamate the two, the latter has been
+somewhat mangled, doors having been added, with a pendant aloft to
+balance other large hollow pendants in the various arches. Unfortunately
+the whole has been painted with a dull grey and grained, a feeble
+attempt to represent marble, and parts of it are also gilt. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> fixed
+settle has been added to the interior, so unless carefully examined it
+is difficult to detect how the parclose and pew were made into one. The
+two-decker pulpit and the wide old-fashioned pews lined with faded green
+baize and pink rep, bring us back to more modern times; but one would be
+loath to see them removed if restoration funds were lavish. Beneath the
+great manorial pew lie at rest the remains of the daughter of the
+thirteenth Lord Scrope, who by marriage with the first Duke of Bolton
+brought the castle into the Poulett family: until then the Scropes had
+held possession through marriage with an heiress of the Nevills. The
+third wife of Charles Poulett, second Duke of Bolton, was Henrietta
+Crofts, the daughter of the Duke of Monmouth and Eleanor Needham.<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Scrope who had charge of the Scots queen at Bolton Castle was Henry,
+the eleventh lord, whose wife was sister to the captive's plotting
+lover, the Duke of Norfolk, who also lost his head through these
+ambitious schemes; and doubtless it was the duke who contrived the
+queen's escape. She had been brought from the castle of Carlisle in July
+1568, but after her attempt to escape was promptly removed (on January
+26) to Tutbury Castle under charge of the Earl of Shrewsbury. The
+furniture of her private altar at Bolton, the altar-cloth, part of a
+rosary, a small bronze crucifix, and an alms-bag, are now preserved at
+Low Hall, Yeadon, mentioned earlier in this chapter. Her hawking gloves
+also: these are said to have been given to Lord Scrope upon her leaving.</p>
+
+<p>Some miles to the west of Bolton is Nappa Hall (where the anc<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span>ient family
+of Metcalfe lived since the reign of Henry VI., and where Metcalfes live
+to-day), a fortified manor-house with square towers (suggestive of
+Haddon), which also claims association with the unfortunate queen. By
+some accounts she slept here one night, by others two or more; and the
+tradition in the Metcalfe family says nine, in the highest chamber of
+the tallest tower. The date is not known, but probably she was brought
+here on her way from Carlisle Castle. The bed on which she slept, the
+top of which was very low, is now at Newby Hall, near Ripon. Our
+sanitary views being very distinct from those enlightened times, the
+pillars of these sixteenth-century beds are frequently raised (in some
+cases unnecessarily high), and unless one wished to be half-smothered,
+this is a natural thing to do if the bed is to be put to practical use;
+but nowadays the collectors of ancient furniture are again reducing the
+height, and bringing them down to their original proportions.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_103" id="ILL_103"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_103.jpg" width="400" height="385" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">ASKRIGG.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In asking the way to Nappa from the village of Askrigg, we were told to
+follow a "gentleman with a flock of sheep who was going up that way";
+but as the distance was the matter of a couple of miles&mdash;and Yorkshire
+miles too, we preferred to follow the telegraph poles, which, after all,
+was more expeditious and quite as reliable. W<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span>e give this as an instance
+of the ordinary pace at which things move in these parts; and perhaps it
+is as well, otherwise the old Hall built by William Taunton in 1678 (so
+it says on the door), with its upper balcony of wood looking upon the
+quaint old market-cross where the bull-ring used to be, might have given
+way to co-operative stores or some new hideous building.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_104" id="ILL_104"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_104.jpg" width="400" height="280" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">NAPPA HALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The village-green of Bainbridge to the west is quite shut in with hills,
+and in the centre are the stocks, or rather the stone supports minus the
+most important part, with a rough rock seat which must have added
+considerably to the victim's discomfort. The principal curiosity,
+however, is the ancient custom prevailing here of blowing a horn at 10
+p.m. during the summer months, to guide belated travellers on the moors.
+This was an excellent provision for safety hundreds of years ago, when
+Bainbridge was practically in the midst of a forest, and even in the
+twentieth century may have its uses. The older horn, that was used
+half a century ago, is now in Bolton Castle Museum. It is very large,
+and curiously twisted. The houses at Bainbridge are of the ordinary ugly
+Yorkshire type; but on high ground overlooking a ravine stands a nice
+old gabled grange, which must have tempted many an artist and
+photographer to pause upon their way to the famous Falls. These, of
+course, are very fine, but to our mind far less beautiful than the
+single plunge of water just below the grange, from a wide and
+scooped-out bed of precipitous rock. Nor are the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> high, low, and middle
+Falls of Aysgarth half so picturesque, though in a sense they are more
+boisterous, like coppery boiling water.</p>
+
+<p>Aysgarth church is perched up high, and you have to climb up many steps
+to reach it from the moss-grown bridge. The doors of most of the
+Yorkshire churches we found were kept unlocked; but this was an
+exception, so down those steps we had to come, to go in search of a key;
+but reaching the bottom of the flight, up we had to go again to try and
+find the rectory. Oh! the time that may be lost in hunting for a church
+key, and what a blessing it would be if notices were stuck up in the
+porches to say where they were kept. The interior of Aysgarth has a new
+appearance, but the splendid painted screen from Jervaulx (placed east
+and west instead of across the chancel) is worth a hunt for the key.
+Another screen, dated 1536, has upon it the grotesque carving of a
+fool's head with long-eared cap. Here again in the village are the
+stocks; but the Maypole, which once was its pride, long since has made
+its exit.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_105" id="ILL_105"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_105.jpg" width="400" height="258" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">RICHMOND.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>By far the nearest way to Richmond from Leyburn is across the moor, a
+rough and desolate road, but preferable to the terrible long way by
+Catterick, more than double the distance (by rail it is four times the
+distance!). This is the prettiest village of any on the way (which is
+not saying much, be it said). The early fifteenth-century church has
+some good monuments and brasses, one of the latter to a lady who for
+many years before she died<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> carried her winding-sheet about with her; and
+one would naturally suppose one with such gruesome ideas would still
+walk the earth for the edification of the timid, but she doesn't.</p>
+
+<p>The entrance to Richmond by the nearest way is very charming. You come
+suddenly upon the castle perched up over the river, and as you wind down
+the hill the grouping of its towers is thrown into perspective, forming
+a delightful picture with the river and the bridge for a foreground.
+Three kings have been prisoners within these formidable Norman walls:
+two kings of Scotland, William and David Bruce, and after the lapse of
+three centuries, Charles I., who passed here on his way to Holdenby. The
+stalls and misericordes in the fine old church came from Easby Abbey.
+They are boldly carved, and one of them represents a sow playing a
+fiddle for the edification of her little pigs. There is a curious
+coloured mural monument, on the east side of the chancel, of Sir Timothy
+Hutton and his wife and children&mdash;twelve of them, including four babes,
+beneath two of which are these verses:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">"As carefull mothers do to sleeping say,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">Their babes that would too long the wanton play;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">So to prevent my youths approaching crimes,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">Nature my nurse had me to bed betimes."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The next is less involved:</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span></p><p>
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">"Into this world as strangers to an inn</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">This infant came, guest wise;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">Where when 't had been and found no entertainment worth her stay,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 21em;">She only broke her fast and went away."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Altogether it is a cheery tomb. Faith, Hope and Charity are there, one
+of whom acts as nurse to one of the babes. Her ladyship's expression is
+somewhat of the Aunt Sally type, but that was the sculptor's fault. The
+ancient church plate includes a chalice dated 1640. The registers are
+beautifully neat and clean, and full of curious matter, such as the
+banns being read by the market-cross.</p>
+
+<p>Apropos of Yorkshire marriages, the odd custom prevails in some parts of
+emptying a kettle of boiling water, down&mdash;not the backs of the happy
+pair, but down the steps of the front door as they drive away, that the
+threshold may be "kept warm for another bride," we presume for <i>another</i>
+swain. The way also of ascertaining whether the future career of those
+united will be attended with happiness is simple and effective. All you
+have to do is, as the bride steps out of the carriage, to fling a plate
+containing small pieces of the wedding-cake out of a window upon the
+heads of the onloo<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span>kers. If the crowd is a small one, and the plate
+arrives on the pavement and is smashed to pieces, all will go well; but
+if somebody's head intervenes, the augury is ominous; which, after all,
+is only natural, for is it not likely that one thus greeted would call
+at the house to bestow his blessing upon somebody? What a pity this
+pretty custom is not introduced into the fashionable marriages of St
+George's, Hanover Square. It would at least create a sensation.</p>
+
+<p>For the rest of Richmond church, well&mdash;it was restored by Sir Gilbert
+Scott. It is regrettable to find the piscina on a level with the floor,
+beneath a pew seat!</p>
+
+<p>The curfew still rings at Richmond, telling the good people when to go
+to bed; but whether they go or not is another matter. We are told it is,
+or was, also rung for them to get up again at six o'clock; and the aged
+official whose duty it was to ring the morning bell, like a wise man,
+did so at his leisure, lying in bed with the rope hanging from the
+ceiling.<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 400px;"><a name="ILL_106" id="ILL_106"></a>
+<img src="images/ill_106.jpg" width="400" height="298" alt="" />
+<span class="caption">EASBY ABBEY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the churchyard, Easby Abbey is seen in the distance in a romantic
+spot by the river: and the walk there is delightful, along the terrace
+above the Swale. Like the rest of these fine structures, it was
+destroyed by the vindictive Henry in 1535. The water close at hand, the
+old abbot's elm, and the little church and gatehouse beyond, altogether
+make this a spot in which to linger and ruminate. The church walls are
+covered with curious and very well preserved paintings of the twelfth
+century, giving a good idea of the costume of the period. The tempting
+serpent, too, is shown twisted in artistic coils around a very
+pre-Raphael looking tree; and in another scene the partakers of the
+fruit are doubled up with remorse, or dyspepsia.</p>
+
+<p>So close at hand as is Bolton on Swale, to the east, it would be a pity
+not to mention Henry Jenkins, who died there in 1670, aged one hundred
+and sixty-nine!&mdash;a man in Charles II.'s reign who remembered the
+dissolution of the monasteries, and who recollected as a boy assisting
+in carrying arrows in a cart to the battle of Flodden field (where
+veteran soldiers remembered the accession of King Edward IV.), was a
+wonder compared with the feeble memory of our present-day centenarians,
+who rarely recollect anything worth recording. When we think how nearly
+we are linked with 1670 by the life of Mrs. William Stuart, who died in
+the late queen's reign, and who heard from the lips of her grandmother
+how she had been taken to Court in a black-draped Sedan when Whitehall
+was in mourning for the death of the king's sister, Henrietta, Duchess
+of Orleans,&mdash;it would have been possible for the little girl to have
+spoken with old Jenkins, and thus with only three lives to have linked
+the early part of the reign of Henry VIII. with that of Victoria.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX">INDEX</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Abbotts Ann, <a href='#Page_221'><b>221</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Amber, river, <a href='#Page_217'><b>217</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Angel," Ringwood, <a href='#Page_178'><b>178</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Angel," Stilton, <a href='#Page_10'><b>10</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Angel," Yeovil, <a href='#Page_145'><b>145</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ashford, <a href='#Page_221'><b>221</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ashover, <a href='#Page_217'><b>217</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Askrigg, <a href='#Page_261'><b>261</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Athelhampton, <a href='#Page_173'><b>173</b></a>, <a href='#Page_174'><b>174</b></a>, <a href='#Page_175'><b>175</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Avon, river, <a href='#Page_84'><b>84</b></a>, <a href='#Page_85'><b>85</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Axmouth, <a href='#Page_169'><b>169</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Aysgarth, <a href='#Page_249'><b>249</b></a>, <a href='#Page_262'><b>262</b></a>, <a href='#Page_263'><b>263</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Baddesley Clinton, <a href='#Page_72'><b>72</b></a>, <a href='#Page_73'><b>73</b></a>, <a href='#Page_76'><b>76</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bainbridge, <a href='#Page_262'><b>262</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barnard Castle, <a href='#Page_225'><b>225</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barnborough, <a href='#Page_230'><b>230</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barnstaple, <a href='#Page_164'><b>164</b></a>, <a href='#Page_165'><b>165</b></a>, <a href='#Page_166'><b>166</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barrington Court, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>, <a href='#Page_137'><b>137</b></a>, <a href='#Page_138'><b>138</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barton Hall, <a href='#Page_23'><b>23</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barton-on-the-Heath, <a href='#Page_66'><b>66</b></a>, <a href='#Page_67'><b>67</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Beckington Castle, <a href='#Page_130'><b>130</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Beeley, <a href='#Page_210'><b>210</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Beer, <a href='#Page_168'><b>168</b></a>, <a href='#Page_169'><b>169</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bellerby, <a href='#Page_256'><b>256</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Bell," Mildenhall, <a href='#Page_22'><b>22</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Bell," Sandy Lane, <a href='#Page_105'><b>105</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Bell," Stilton, <a href='#Page_10'><b>10</b></a>, <a href='#Page_86'><b>86</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bere Regis, <a href='#Page_158'><b>158</b></a>, <a href='#Page_176'><b>176</b></a>, <a href='#Page_177'><b>177</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Beverstone Castle, <a href='#Page_100'><b>100</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bewley Court, <a href='#Page_109'><b>109</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Biddestone, <a href='#Page_114'><b>114</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bildeston, <a href='#Page_32'><b>32</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bindon, <a href='#Page_169'><b>169</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Birdlip, <a href='#Page_97'><b>97</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Birtsmorton Court, <a href='#Page_81'><b>81</b></a>, <a href='#Page_83'><b>83</b></a>, <a href='#Page_84'><b>84</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bishop's Lydeard, <a href='#Page_147'><b>147</b></a>, <a href='#Page_148'><b>148</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Black Horse," Birdlip, <a href='#Page_98'><b>98</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Blackladies, <a href='#Page_199'><b>199</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Blickling Hall, <a href='#Page_45'><b>45</b></a>, <a href='#Page_46'><b>46</b></a>, <a href='#Page_47'><b>47</b></a>, <a href='#Page_49'><b>49</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Blore Heath, <a href='#Page_192'><b>192</b></a>, <a href='#Page_193'><b>193</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Blue Lion," East Witton, <a href='#Page_249'><b>249</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bolsover Castle, <a href='#Page_210'><b>210</b></a>, <a href='#Page_217'><b>217</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bolton Castle, <a href='#Page_251'><b>251</b></a>, <a href='#Page_256'><b>256</b></a>, <a href='#Page_260'><b>260</b></a>, <a href='#Page_262'><b>262</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bolton-on-Swale, <a href='#Page_266'><b>266</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bossington, <a href='#Page_159'><b>159</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bovey, <a href='#Page_169'><b>169</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bowes, <a href='#Page_225'><b>225</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brailes, <a href='#Page_68'><b>68</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brampton, <a href='#Page_4'><b>4</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Branscombe, <a href='#Page_167'><b>167</b></a>, <a href='#Page_168'><b>168</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Braunton, <a href='#Page_165'><b>165</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Broadway, <a href='#Page_85'><b>85</b></a>, <a href='#Page_87'><b>87</b></a>, <a href='#Page_89'><b>89</b></a>, <a href='#Page_90'><b>90</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bromham, <a href='#Page_103'><b>103</b></a>, <a href='#Page_105'><b>105</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brotherton, <a href='#Page_236'><b>236</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Broughton Hall, <a href='#Page_193'><b>193</b></a>, <a href='#Page_194'><b>194</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brympton D'Eversy, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>, <a href='#Page_141'><b>141</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brynkinalt, <a href='#Page_185'><b>185</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Buckingham's hole, Blore, <a href='#Page_192'><b>192</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Buckland, <a href='#Page_89'><b>89</b></a>, <a href='#Page_90'><b>90</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bullich House, Allington, <a href='#Page_117'><b>117</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Burrow Farm, <a href='#Page_136'><b>136</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Burton Constable, <a href='#Page_248'><b>248</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bury St. Edmund's, <a href='#Page_27'><b>27</b></a>, <a href='#Page_31'><b>31</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bushley, <a href='#Page_83'><b>83</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Cannard's Grave," Shepton Mallet, <a href='#Page_133'><b>133</b></a>, <a href='#Page_134'><b>134</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Carhampton, <a href='#Page_157'><b>157</b></a>, <a href='#Page_158'><b>158</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Castle Combe, <a href='#Page_114'><b>114</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Castle Inn," Castle Combe, <a href='#Page_116'><b>116</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Catterick, <a href='#Page_263'><b>263</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chapel Plaster Hermitage, <a href='#Page_110'><b>110</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Charlcote, <a href='#Page_72'><b>72</b></a>, <a href='#Page_73'><b>73</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Charterhouse Hinton, <a href='#Page_128'><b>128</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chastleton, <a href='#Page_62'><b>62</b></a>, <a href='#Page_64'><b>64</b></a>, <a href='#Page_66'><b>66</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chatsworth, <a href='#Page_208'><b>208</b></a>, <a href='#Page_210'><b>210</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chavenage Manor House, <a href='#Page_100'><b>100</b></a>, <a href='#Page_101'><b>101</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chedzoy, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheney Court, <a href='#Page_111'><b>111</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chevin Hill, <a href='#Page_242'><b>242</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chideock, <a href='#Page_171'><b>171</b></a>, <a href='#Page_172'><b>172</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chipping Campden, <a href='#Page_87'><b>87</b></a>, <a href='#Page_92'><b>92</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chipping Norton, <a href='#Page_61'><b>61</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chirk Castle, <a href='#Page_181'><b>181</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church House, Crowcombe, <a href='#Page_149'><b>149</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church Stanway, <a href='#Page_90'><b>90</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Church Stretton, <a href='#Page_188'><b>188</b></a>, <a href='#Page_189'><b>189</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Claverton Down, <a href='#Page_111'><b>111</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Clifton Maybank, <a href='#Page_143'><b>143</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Clovelly, <a href='#Page_162'><b>162</b></a>, <a href='#Page_163'><b>163</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Coaxden, <a href='#Page_170'><b>170</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Colerne, <a href='#Page_112'><b>112</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Coles Farm, Box, <a href='#Page_111'><b>111</b></a>, <a href='#Page_112'><b>112</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Combe St. Nicholas, <a href='#Page_145'><b>145</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Combe Sydenham <a href='#Page_152'><b>152</b></a>, <a href='#Page_153'><b>153</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Compton Wyniates, <a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a>, <a href='#Page_68'><b>68</b></a>, <a href='#Page_69'><b>69</b></a>, <a href='#Page_70'><b>70</b></a>, <a href='#Page_72'><b>72</b></a>, <a href='#Page_73'><b>73</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Condover Hall, <a href='#Page_187'><b>187</b></a>, <a href='#Page_188'><b>188</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Connington Hall, <a href='#Page_7'><b>7</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Coombe Abbey, <a href='#Page_72'><b>72</b></a>, <a href='#Page_195'><b>195</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Coppingford, <a href='#Page_6'><b>6</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Corby, <a href='#Page_20'><b>20</b></a>, <a href='#Page_21'><b>21</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Corsham Court, <a href='#Page_109'><b>109</b></a>, <a href='#Page_112'><b>112</b></a>, <a href='#Page_113'><b>113</b></a>, <a href='#Page_114'><b>114</b></a>, <a href='#Page_128'><b>128</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cothelstone, <a href='#Page_148'><b>148</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Court Farm, Hadleigh, <a href='#Page_33'><b>33</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cover, river, <a href='#Page_250'><b>250</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crimplesham, <a href='#Page_56'><b>56</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Croscombe, <a href='#Page_132'><b>132</b></a>, <a href='#Page_133'><b>133</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crowcombe, <a href='#Page_132'><b>132</b></a>, <a href='#Page_149'><b>149</b></a>, <a href='#Page_150'><b>150</b></a>, <a href='#Page_152'><b>152</b></a>, <a href='#Page_153'><b>153</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crowther's Farm, <a href='#Page_178'><b>178</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Croxton, <a href='#Page_194'><b>194</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Croyde Bay, <a href='#Page_166'><b>166</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Culford, <a href='#Page_26'><b>26</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Curry Rivel, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>, <a href='#Page_136'><b>136</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dacre, <a href='#Page_248'><b>248</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dalby, <a href='#Page_10'><b>10</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Danby Hall, <a href='#Page_249'><b>249</b></a>, <a href='#Page_250'><b>250</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Darfield, <a href='#Page_230'><b>230</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dedham, <a href='#Page_34'><b>34</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Deene, <a href='#Page_15'><b>15</b></a>, <a href='#Page_16'><b>16</b></a>, <a href='#Page_18'><b>18</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Derwent, river, <a href='#Page_210'><b>210</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dethick-cum-Lea, <a href='#Page_217'><b>217</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dob Park Lodge, <a href='#Page_247'><b>247</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dover Hill, <a href='#Page_89'><b>89</b></a>, <a href='#Page_92'><b>92</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Downham Market, <a href='#Page_56'><b>56</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Downside, Shepton Mallet, <a href='#Page_133'><b>133</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Dun Cow," Market Drayton, <a href='#Page_190'><b>190</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dunster Castle, <a href='#Page_155'><b>155</b></a>, <a href='#Page_157'><b>157</b></a>, <a href='#Page_158'><b>158</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Easby, <a href='#Page_249'><b>249</b></a>, <a href='#Page_258'><b>258</b></a>, <a href='#Page_259'><b>259</b></a>, <a href='#Page_264'><b>264</b></a>, <a href='#Page_266'><b>266</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">East Barsham Manor House, <a href='#Page_41'><b>41</b></a>, <a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">East Bergholt, <a href='#Page_34'><b>34</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">East Witton, <a href='#Page_249'><b>249</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eaton Constantine, <a href='#Page_188'><b>188</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Edensor, <a href='#Page_209'><b>209</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eleanor Crosses, <a href='#Page_21'><b>21</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Elworthy, <a href='#Page_153'><b>153</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Enmore Castle, <a href='#Page_150'><b>150</b></a>, <a href='#Page_151'><b>151</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ermine Street. <a href='#Page_6'><b>6</b></a>, <a href='#Page_97'><b>97</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Erwarton Hall, <a href='#Page_36'><b>36</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fakenham, <a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a>, <a href='#Page_43'><b>43</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Farleigh Castle, <a href='#Page_128'><b>128</b></a>, <a href='#Page_136'><b>136</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Farnley Hall, <a href='#Page_243'><b>243</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Feathers," Ludlow, <a href='#Page_188'><b>188</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fenstanton, <a href='#Page_223'><b>223</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ferrybridge, <a href='#Page_236'><b>236</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fewstone, <a href='#Page_247'><b>247</b></a>, <a href='#Page_248'><b>248</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Finghall, <a href='#Page_248'><b>248</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Flatford, <a href='#Page_34'><b>34</b></a>, <a href='#Page_35'><b>35</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Foss way, <a href='#Page_134'><b>134</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fotheringay Castle, <a href='#Page_7'><b>7</b></a>, <a href='#Page_12'><b>12</b></a>, <a href='#Page_13'><b>13</b></a>, <a href='#Page_14'><b>14</b></a>, <a href='#Page_15'><b>15</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Four-Shire Stone, <a href='#Page_66'><b>66</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gastard, <a href='#Page_109'><b>109</b></a>, <a href='#Page_110'><b>110</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gaulden, <a href='#Page_154'><b>154</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gedding Hall, <a href='#Page_31'><b>31</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Geddington, <a href='#Page_21'><b>21</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"George," Glastonbury, <a href='#Page_126'><b>126</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"George," Huntingdon, <a href='#Page_2'><b>2</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"George," Norton St. Philip, <a href='#Page_125'><b>125</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"George," Sandy Lane, <a href='#Page_105'><b>105</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"George," Yeovil, <a href='#Page_145'><b>145</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Glatton, <a href='#Page_7'><b>7</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Glossop, <a href='#Page_222'><b>222</b></a>, <a href='#Page_223'><b>223</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Godmanchester, <a href='#Page_4'><b>4</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Golden Lion," Barnstaple, <a href='#Page_164'><b>164</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Great Chaldfield, <a href='#Page_118'><b>118</b></a>, <a href='#Page_121'><b>121</b></a>, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Great Houghton, <a href='#Page_230'><b>230</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Great Snoring, <a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Great Torrington, <a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Great Wenham, <a href='#Page_35'><b>35</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Green Dragon," Chipping Campden, <a href='#Page_88'><b>88</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Green Dragon," Combe St. Nicholas, <a href='#Page_145'><b>145</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Guiseley, <a href='#Page_242'><b>242</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hack Fall, <a href='#Page_248'><b>248</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Haddon Hall, <a href='#Page_54'><b>54</b></a>, <a href='#Page_86'><b>86</b></a>, <a href='#Page_170'><b>170</b></a>, <a href='#Page_183'><b>183</b></a>, <a href='#Page_196'><b>196</b></a>, <a href='#Page_200'><b>200</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hadleigh, <a href='#Page_32'><b>32</b></a>, <a href='#Page_34'><b>34</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hardeby, <a href='#Page_21'><b>21</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hardwick, Derby, <a href='#Page_143'><b>143</b></a>, <a href='#Page_210'><b>210</b></a>, <a href='#Page_212'><b>212</b></a>, <a href='#Page_239'><b>239</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hardwick, Suffolk, <a href='#Page_30'><b>30</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Hare and Hounds," East Bergholt, <a href='#Page_35'><b>35</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Harkstead, <a href='#Page_36'><b>36</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hathersage, <a href='#Page_222'><b>222</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hautboys Hall, <a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hawstead Place, <a href='#Page_30'><b>30</b></a>, <a href='#Page_31'><b>31</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hazelbury House, Box, <a href='#Page_111'><b>111</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Helmingham, <a href='#Page_27'><b>27</b></a>, <a href='#Page_150'><b>150</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hemington, <a href='#Page_15'><b>15</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hengrave Hall, <a href='#Page_26'><b>26</b></a>, <a href='#Page_27'><b>27</b></a>, <a href='#Page_28'><b>28</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Heytesbury, <a href='#Page_128'><b>128</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hinchinbrooke, <a href='#Page_1'><b>1</b></a>, <a href='#Page_3'><b>3</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hinton St George, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>, <a href='#Page_138'><b>138</b></a>, <a href='#Page_139'><b>139</b></a>, <a href='#Page_143'><b>143</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hoare Cross, <a href='#Page_240'><b>240</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hobbal Grange, <a href='#Page_198'><b>198</b></a>, <a href='#Page_199'><b>199</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Holkham Hall, <a href='#Page_40'><b>40</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Holt Lodge, <a href='#Page_178'><b>178</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hungerford Hospital, Corsham, <a href='#Page_112'><b>112</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hunslet, <a href='#Page_239'><b>239</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hunters' Hall, Colerne, <a href='#Page_112'><b>112</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Huntingdon, <a href='#Page_1'><b>1</b></a>, <a href='#Page_2'><b>2</b></a>, <a href='#Page_3'><b>3</b></a>, <a href='#Page_4'><b>4</b></a>, <a href='#Page_5'><b>5</b></a>, <a href='#Page_11'><b>11</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jervaulx Abbey, <a href='#Page_248'><b>248</b></a>, <a href='#Page_255'><b>255</b></a>, <a href='#Page_263'><b>263</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kenilworth, <a href='#Page_27'><b>27</b></a>, <a href='#Page_72'><b>72</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kineton, <a href='#Page_94'><b>94</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"King's Arms," Market Drayton, <a href='#Page_190'><b>190</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kingston, <a href='#Page_147'><b>147</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kingston Lacy, <a href='#Page_179'><b>179</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kingston St Michael, <a href='#Page_117'><b>117</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kippax Park, <a href='#Page_237'><b>237</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kirby Hall, <a href='#Page_15'><b>15</b></a>, <a href='#Page_16'><b>16</b></a>, <a href='#Page_18'><b>18</b></a>, <a href='#Page_19'><b>19</b></a>, <a href='#Page_20'><b>20</b></a>, <a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Knapton, <a href='#Page_44'><b>44</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Knowsthorpe Hall, <a href='#Page_239'><b>239</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lacock Abbey, <a href='#Page_105'><b>105</b></a>, <a href='#Page_106'><b>106</b></a>, <a href='#Page_107'><b>107</b></a>, <a href='#Page_108'><b>108</b></a>, <a href='#Page_109'><b>109</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Langley, <a href='#Page_188'><b>188</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Langport, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lark, river, <a href='#Page_24'><b>24</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Leathley, <a href='#Page_244'><b>244</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ledston Hall, <a href='#Page_237'><b>237</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Leyburn, <a href='#Page_255'><b>255</b></a>, <a href='#Page_256'><b>256</b></a>, <a href='#Page_257'><b>257</b></a>, <a href='#Page_263'><b>263</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Little Compton, <a href='#Page_61'><b>61</b></a>, <a href='#Page_62'><b>62</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Little Gidding, <a href='#Page_7'><b>7</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Little Saxham Hall, <a href='#Page_26'><b>26</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Little Stukeley, <a href='#Page_5'><b>5</b></a>,<a href='#Page_6'><b>6</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Little Wenham, <a href='#Page_35'><b>35</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Little Woolford, <a href='#Page_66'><b>66</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Long Compton, <a href='#Page_59'><b>59</b></a>, <a href='#Page_60'><b>60</b></a>, <a href='#Page_61'><b>61</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Long Marston, <a href='#Page_89'><b>89</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Low Hall, Rawdon, <a href='#Page_241'><b>241</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Low Hall, Yeadon, <a href='#Page_241'><b>241</b></a>, <a href='#Page_260'><b>260</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ludford, <a href='#Page_188'><b>188</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ludlow Castle, <a href='#Page_188'><b>188</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Luttrell Arms," Dunster, <a href='#Page_157'><b>157</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lydcote, <a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Lygon Arms," Broadway, <a href='#Page_85'><b>85</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lymington, <a href='#Page_139'><b>139</b></a>, <a href='#Page_140'><b>140</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lynmouth, <a href='#Page_160'><b>160</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lynton, <a href='#Page_160'><b>160</b></a>, <a href='#Page_161'><b>161</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lytes Cary, <a href='#Page_134'><b>134</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Malvern Chase, <a href='#Page_81'><b>81</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mannington Hall, <a href='#Page_49'><b>49</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Manor Farm, Norton St Philip, <a href='#Page_124'><b>124</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mapperton Manor House, <a href='#Page_173'><b>173</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Market Drayton, <a href='#Page_189'><b>189</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Martock, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>, <a href='#Page_138'><b>138</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Masham, <a href='#Page_248'><b>248</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Maxstoke Castle, <a href='#Page_72'><b>72</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Melksham, <a href='#Page_109'><b>109</b></a>, <a href='#Page_118'><b>118</b></a>, <a href='#Page_151'><b>151</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Melplash Court, <a href='#Page_173'><b>173</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Menden, <a href='#Page_72'><b>72</b></a>, <a href='#Page_73'><b>73</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mickleton, <a href='#Page_89'><b>89</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Middleham, <a href='#Page_248'><b>248</b></a>, <a href='#Page_249'><b>249</b></a>, <a href='#Page_251'><b>251</b></a>, <a href='#Page_252'><b>252</b></a>, <a href='#Page_254'><b>254</b></a>, <a href='#Page_257'><b>257</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Middlesoy, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mildenhall, <a href='#Page_22'><b>22</b></a>, <a href='#Page_23'><b>23</b></a>, <a href='#Page_24'><b>24</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Minehead, <a href='#Page_158'><b>158</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Monksilver, <a href='#Page_152'><b>152</b></a>, <a href='#Page_154'><b>154</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Monmouth House, Shepton Mallet, <a href='#Page_134'><b>134</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Montacute House, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>, <a href='#Page_142'><b>142</b></a>, <a href='#Page_143'><b>143</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Montacute Priory, <a href='#Page_144'><b>144</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mundesley, Rookery Farm, <a href='#Page_44'><b>44</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mundford, <a href='#Page_56'><b>56</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nailsworth, <a href='#Page_99'><b>99</b></a>, <a href='#Page_100'><b>100</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nappa Hall, <a href='#Page_260'><b>260</b></a>, <a href='#Page_261'><b>261</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Needham Market, <a href='#Page_31'><b>31</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nene, river, <a href='#Page_12'><b>12</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neston, <a href='#Page_110'><b>110</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nettlecombe, <a href='#Page_153'><b>153</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Newbury Farm, Bildeston, <a href='#Page_32'><b>32</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Newby Hall, <a href='#Page_261'><b>261</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"New Inn," Clovelly, <a href='#Page_163'><b>163</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">North Lees, Hathersage, <a href='#Page_222'><b>222</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Norton House, Chipping Campden, <a href='#Page_89'><b>89</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Norton St Philip, <a href='#Page_123'><b>123</b></a>, <a href='#Page_126'><b>126</b></a>, <a href='#Page_127'><b>127</b></a>, <a href='#Page_128'><b>128</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Offenham, <a href='#Page_85'><b>85</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Old Cleeve, <a href='#Page_154'><b>154</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Old Hall Inn," Great Houghton, <a href='#Page_231'><b>231</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Old Red Lion," Long Compton, <a href='#Page_59'><b>59</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Old Weston, <a href='#Page_223'><b>223</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Orwell, river, <a href='#Page_34'><b>34</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Otley, <a href='#Page_242'><b>242</b></a>, <a href='#Page_243'><b>243</b></a>, <a href='#Page_246'><b>246</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oundle, <a href='#Page_11'><b>11</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ouse, river, <a href='#Page_4'><b>4</b></a>, <a href='#Page_223'><b>223</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oxburgh Hall, <a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a>, <a href='#Page_54'><b>54</b></a>, <a href='#Page_55'><b>55</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oxnead Hall, <a href='#Page_47'><b>47</b></a>, <a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Painswick, <a href='#Page_98'><b>98</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parnham Hall, <a href='#Page_173'><b>173</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Payne's Place, Bushley, <a href='#Page_83'><b>83</b></a>, <a href='#Page_144'><b>144</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Peacock," Rowsley, <a href='#Page_207'><b>207</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Penhill, <a href='#Page_251'><b>251</b></a>, <a href='#Page_255'><b>255</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pilsdon, <a href='#Page_171'><b>171</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pilton, <a href='#Page_165'><b>165</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pirton Court, <a href='#Page_80'><b>80</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pitchford Hall, <a href='#Page_187'><b>187</b></a>, <a href='#Page_188'><b>188</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pixham, <a href='#Page_78'><b>78</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Plâs Baddy, <a href='#Page_185'><b>185</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Plash Hall, <a href='#Page_188'><b>188</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Plumpton Hall, <a href='#Page_30'><b>30</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pontefract Castle, <a href='#Page_232'><b>232</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pontfaen, <a href='#Page_186'><b>186</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Porlock, <a href='#Page_159'><b>159</b></a>, <a href='#Page_160'><b>160</b></a>, <a href='#Page_161'><b>161</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Postlip Hall, <a href='#Page_93'><b>93</b></a>, <a href='#Page_96'><b>96</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Powick Bridge, <a href='#Page_78'><b>78</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Priors Court, <a href='#Page_78'><b>78</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Puddletown, <a href='#Page_175'><b>175</b></a>, <a href='#Page_176'><b>176</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Raynham Hall, <a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a>, <a href='#Page_47'><b>47</b></a>, <a href='#Page_48'><b>48</b></a>, <a href='#Page_74'><b>74</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Raven," Church Stretton, <a href='#Page_189'><b>189</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rawdon, <a href='#Page_241'><b>241</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Red Lion," Chipping Camden, <a href='#Page_88'><b>88</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Richmond, Yorkshire, <a href='#Page_256'><b>256</b></a>, <a href='#Page_258'><b>258</b></a>, <a href='#Page_263'><b>263</b></a>, <a href='#Page_264'><b>264</b></a>, <a href='#Page_266'><b>266</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ripley, <a href='#Page_247'><b>247</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ripple, <a href='#Page_84'><b>84</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rodborough, <a href='#Page_99'><b>99</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rollright Stones, <a href='#Page_60'><b>60</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rushbrooke Hall, <a href='#Page_27'><b>27</b></a>, <a href='#Page_28'><b>28</b></a>, <a href='#Page_29'><b>29</b></a>, <a href='#Page_30'><b>30</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">St. Giles Park, <a href='#Page_178'><b>178</b></a>, <a href='#Page_179'><b>179</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sandford Orcas, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>, <a href='#Page_140'><b>140</b></a>, <a href='#Page_141'><b>141</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Severn End, <a href='#Page_80'><b>80</b></a>, <a href='#Page_81'><b>81</b></a>, <a href='#Page_195'><b>195</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Severn, river, <a href='#Page_84'><b>84</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sheffield Manor House, <a href='#Page_208'><b>208</b></a>, <a href='#Page_213'><b>213</b></a>, <a href='#Page_225'><b>225</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sheldon Manor, <a href='#Page_118'><b>118</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shepton Mallet, <a href='#Page_132'><b>132</b></a>, <a href='#Page_133'><b>133</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Ship Inn," Porlock, <a href='#Page_160'><b>160</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shrewsbury, <a href='#Page_81'><b>81</b></a>, <a href='#Page_181'><b>181</b></a>, <a href='#Page_188'><b>188</b></a>, <a href='#Page_189'><b>189</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shute House, <a href='#Page_170'><b>170</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Silton, <a href='#Page_171'><b>171</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Snowre Hall, <a href='#Page_55'><b>55</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Somerton, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Southam House, <a href='#Page_93'><b>93</b></a>, <a href='#Page_96'><b>96</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Southfield, Woodchester, <a href='#Page_99'><b>99</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">South Petherton, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>, <a href='#Page_138'><b>138</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">South Wraxall, <a href='#Page_118'><b>118</b></a>, <a href='#Page_121'><b>121</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spaxton, <a href='#Page_151'><b>151</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spennithorne, <a href='#Page_254'><b>254</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sprowston, <a href='#Page_58'><b>58</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spye Park, <a href='#Page_104'><b>104</b></a>, <a href='#Page_105'><b>105</b></a>, <a href='#Page_109'><b>109</b></a>, <a href='#Page_151'><b>151</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stainborough Hall, <a href='#Page_228'><b>228</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stamford, <a href='#Page_16'><b>16</b></a>, <a href='#Page_18'><b>18</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stanfield Hall, <a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stanton, <a href='#Page_89'><b>89</b></a>, <a href='#Page_90'><b>90</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stanton St. Quinton, <a href='#Page_117'><b>117</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stanway-in-the-Woods, <a href='#Page_89'><b>89</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stiffkey Hall, <a href='#Page_41'><b>41</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stilton, <a href='#Page_8'><b>8</b></a>, <a href='#Page_10'><b>10</b></a>, <a href='#Page_11'><b>11</b></a>, <a href='#Page_86'><b>86</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stogumber, <a href='#Page_153'><b>153</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stoke Ferry, <a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stokesay Castle, <a href='#Page_186'><b>186</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stour, river, <a href='#Page_34'><b>34</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Strafford Arms," Stainborough, <a href='#Page_229'><b>229</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Strensham, <a href='#Page_84'><b>84</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sudeley Castle, <a href='#Page_93'><b>93</b></a>, <a href='#Page_96'><b>96</b></a>, <a href='#Page_100'><b>100</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swale, river, <a href='#Page_266'><b>266</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Swan and Salmon," Little Stukeley, <a href='#Page_5'><b>5</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Swan Inn," Downham Market, <a href='#Page_56'><b>56</b></a>, <a href='#Page_58'><b>58</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swinnerton Hall, <a href='#Page_194'><b>194</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swinsty Hall, <a href='#Page_244'><b>244</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Talbot," Oundle, <a href='#Page_12'><b>12</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tamworth Castle, <a href='#Page_72'><b>72</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tansor, <a href='#Page_15'><b>15</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Taunton, <a href='#Page_136'><b>136</b></a>, <a href='#Page_147'><b>147</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tawstock, <a href='#Page_166'><b>166</b></a>, <a href='#Page_167'><b>167</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Temple Newsam, <a href='#Page_229'><b>229</b></a>, <a href='#Page_237'><b>237</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tetbury, <a href='#Page_100'><b>100</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tewkesbury, <a href='#Page_81'><b>81</b></a>, <a href='#Page_83'><b>83</b></a>, <a href='#Page_84'><b>84</b></a>, <a href='#Page_181'><b>181</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Thorpland Hall, <a href='#Page_42'><b>42</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tintinhull Court, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>, <a href='#Page_140'><b>140</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tissington, <a href='#Page_221'><b>221</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tixall, <a href='#Page_195'><b>195</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tong, <a href='#Page_196'><b>196</b></a>, <a href='#Page_197'><b>197</b></a>, <a href='#Page_199'><b>199</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Trent House, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>, <a href='#Page_140'><b>140</b></a>, <a href='#Page_156'><b>156</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Trentham, <a href='#Page_195'><b>195</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Trunch, <a href='#Page_44'><b>44</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tudor House, Broadway, <a href='#Page_86'><b>86</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Turk's Head," Oundle, <a href='#Page_11'><b>11</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tutbury Castle, <a href='#Page_260'><b>260</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Walsingham, <a href='#Page_43'><b>43</b></a>, <a href='#Page_44'><b>44</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wamil Hall, <a href='#Page_24'><b>24</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Warwick Castle, <a href='#Page_72'><b>72</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Waterstone, <a href='#Page_173'><b>173</b></a>, <a href='#Page_174'><b>174</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wellow, <a href='#Page_127'><b>127</b></a>, <a href='#Page_128'><b>128</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wells-next-the-Sea, <a href='#Page_40'><b>40</b></a>, <a href='#Page_43'><b>43</b></a>, <a href='#Page_44'><b>44</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wensley, <a href='#Page_258'><b>258</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wentworth Castle, <a href='#Page_227'><b>227</b></a>, <a href='#Page_230'><b>230</b></a>, <a href='#Page_237'><b>237</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wentworth Woodhouse, <a href='#Page_228'><b>228</b></a>, <a href='#Page_229'><b>229</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">West Lydford, <a href='#Page_134'><b>134</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Weston Hall, <a href='#Page_244'><b>244</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Weston Zoyland, <a href='#Page_135'><b>135</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">West Stow Hall, <a href='#Page_24'><b>24</b></a>, <a href='#Page_32'><b>32</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wharfe, river, <a href='#Page_242'><b>242</b></a>, <a href='#Page_244'><b>244</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">White House of Pixham, <a href='#Page_78'><b>78</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">White Lackington, <a href='#Page_137'><b>137</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"White Lion," Hadleigh, <a href='#Page_34'><b>34</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wimborne Minster, <a href='#Page_177'><b>177</b></a>, <a href='#Page_179'><b>179</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Winchcombe, <a href='#Page_93'><b>93</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wingfield Manor, <a href='#Page_209'><b>209</b></a>, <a href='#Page_215'><b>215</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Winnington, <a href='#Page_189'><b>189</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wolverton, <a href='#Page_173'><b>173</b></a>, <a href='#Page_174'><b>174</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Woodchester, <a href='#Page_99'><b>99</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Woodlands, <a href='#Page_178'><b>178</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wood Stanway, <a href='#Page_90'><b>90</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wool, <a href='#Page_176'><b>176</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wootton Lodge, <a href='#Page_195'><b>195</b></a>, <a href='#Page_196'><b>196</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wormleighton, <a href='#Page_13'><b>13</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wormwood Farm, Neston, <a href='#Page_110'><b>110</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Worsborough, <a href='#Page_226'><b>226</b></a>, <a href='#Page_227'><b>227</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wothorpe Hall, <a href='#Page_18'><b>18</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wye, river, <a href='#Page_204'><b>204</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wylde Court, <a href='#Page_171'><b>171</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wymondham, <a href='#Page_51'><b>51</b></a>, <a href='#Page_52'><b>52</b></a>, <a href='#Page_53'><b>53</b></a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yatton Keynell, <a href='#Page_116'><b>116</b></a>, <a href='#Page_117'><b>117</b></a>, <a href='#Page_118'><b>118</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yeadon, <a href='#Page_241'><b>241</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yew Tree Farm, Bushley, <a href='#Page_83'><b>83</b></a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yore, river, <a href='#Page_250'><b>250</b></a>, <a href='#Page_252'><b>252</b></a>.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> <i>See Memoirs of the Martyr King.</i></p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> <i>Evelyn's Diary</i>, vol. iv. p. 134, 1870 ed.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> See <i>Memoirs of the Martyr King</i>, p. 73.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> See <i>Turner's History of Remarkable Providences</i>, 1677.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> <i>Continuation of the Life of Lord Clarendon.</i></p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> <i>Diary</i>, 3 March 1666-67.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> The old Hall was pulled down in 1771.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> <i>Evelyn's Diary</i>, Sept. 18, 1683.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Descendants of Proger, or Progers, are still living in Bury
+St. Edmunds.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> <i>The Antiquary</i>, vol. xxxviii.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> The Miss Hobart who figures in de Gramont's <i>Memoirs</i> was
+Sir John's sister, one of the first baronet's sixteen children.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> There is an illustration of the room that Monmouth slept
+in at Raynham upon this occasion in <i>King Monmouth</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> <i>A Narrative of the Visit of His Majesty King Charles the
+Second to Norwich, 1671</i> (1846).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> See <i>Secret Chambers and Hiding-Places</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> See <i>Memoirs of the Martyr King</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> There is an engraving of this room in Nash's <i>Mansions</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> The description was written more than twenty years ago.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> See <i>King Monmouth</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Illustrations of these relics are in <i>King Monmouth</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> The open roof of the manor-house, now a cooper's shop, is
+also worth inspection.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> See <i>The Flight of the King</i> and <i>After Worcester Fight</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> See illustration in <i>King Monmouth</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> This was formerly the case at "Payne's Place,"
+Worcestershire, a house mentioned in another chapter.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> See <i>Some Beauties of the Seventeenth Century</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> See <i>Flight of the King</i> and <i>After Worcester Fight</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> See <i>Flight of the King</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> <i>Hist., MSS. Com. Rep.</i> 7 App. p. 758.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> See <i>Flight of the King</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> They have been reproduced most carefully for the
+drawing-room of the Cedar House at Hillingdon.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> <i>Pepys' Diary</i>, March 18, 1667-68.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> We have described these relics (now in the possession of
+Mrs. Martin-Edmunds) in detail in the <i>Memoirs of the Martyr King</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> In the account in <i>Secret Chambers</i> of the inscription on
+the swords, it is given in error as "Shortly."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> See <i>Some Beauties of the Seventeenth Century</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> See <i>King Monmouth</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> This and other information we have derived from Mr. Harry
+Speight's interesting work, <i>Romantic Richmond</i>.</p></div></div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
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@@ -0,0 +1,6862 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Nooks and Corners of Old England, by Allan Fea
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Nooks and Corners of Old England
+
+Author: Allan Fea
+
+Release Date: September 11, 2012 [EBook #39685]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOOKS AND CORNERS OF OLD ENGLAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Annie McGuire. This book was produced from
+scanned images of public domain material from the Google
+Print archive.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Book Cover]
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS AND CORNERS
+OF OLD ENGLAND
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Queen Eleanor's Cross
+at Geddington]
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS AND CORNERS
+OF OLD ENGLAND
+
+
+BY
+
+ALLAN FEA
+
+AUTHOR OF
+"SECRET CHAMBERS AND HIDING PLACES" "PICTURESQUE OLD HOUSES"
+"FLIGHT OF THE KING" ETC.
+
+
+WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
+BY THE AUTHOR
+
+
+NEW YORK
+CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
+1908
+
+
+
+
+TO
+MY OLD FRIEND
+SEYMOUR LUCAS, R.A., F.S.A.
+THIS BOOK
+IS AFFECTIONATELY
+INSCRIBED
+
+
+
+
+A recent glance over some old Ordnance Maps, the companions of many a
+ramble in the corners of Old England, has suggested the idea of jotting
+down a few fragmentary notes, which we trust may be of interest.
+
+Upon a former occasion we wandered with pencil and camera haphazard off
+the beaten track mainly in the counties surrounding the great
+Metropolis; and though there are several tempting "Nooks" still near at
+hand, we have now extended our range of exploration.
+
+We only trust the reader will derive a little of the pleasure we have
+found in compiling this little volume.
+
+  A. F.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+  NOOKS IN HUNTINGDONSHIRE AND NORTH NORTHANTS                         1
+  SOME SUFFOLK NOOKS                                                  22
+  NOOKS IN NORFOLK                                                    40
+  NOOKS IN WARWICKSHIRE AND BORDERLAND                                59
+  SOME NOOKS IN WORCESTERSHIRE AND GLOUCESTERSHIRE                    78
+  NOOKS IN NORTHERN WILTSHIRE                                        102
+  EASTERN AND SOUTHERN SOMERSET                                      123
+  IN WESTERN SOMERSET                                                147
+  IN DEVON AND DORSET                                                162
+  HERE AND THERE IN SALOP AND STAFFORDSHIRE                          181
+  IN NORTHERN DERBYSHIRE                                             200
+  NOOKS IN YORKSHIRE                                                 225
+  INDEX                                                              269
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+  QUEEN ELEANOR'S CROSS AT GEDDINGTON                     _Frontispiece_
+  THE BELL, STILTON                                      _Facing page_ 8
+  KIRBY HALL                                                          18
+  WOTHORPE MANOR-HOUSE                                                18
+  DOORWAY, KIRBY HALL                                                 20
+  GATEWAY, KIRBY HALL                                                 20
+  ERWARTON HALL                                                       36
+  WALSINGHAM                                                          42
+  WALSINGHAM                                                          42
+  EAST BARSHAM MANOR                                                  44
+  FONT CANOPY, TRUNCH                                                 44
+  WYMONDHAM                                                           52
+  HAUTBOYS HALL                                                       52
+  CHASTLETON                                                          64
+  PIRTON COURT                                                        80
+  THE WHITE HOUSE, PIXHAM                                             80
+  SEVERN END                                                          82
+  SEVERN END                                                          82
+  RIPPLE                                                              86
+  STANTON                                                             86
+  STANWAY HOUSE                                                       90
+  STANWAY HOUSE                                                       90
+  POSTLIP HALL                                                        98
+  STOCKS, PAINSWICK                                                   98
+  NAILSWORTH                                                         100
+  BEVERSTONE CASTLE                                                  100
+  GATE-HOUSE, SPYE PARK                                              104
+  LACOCK                                                             104
+  LACOCK                                                             106
+  BEWLEY COURT                                                       106
+  LACOCK                                                             108
+  LACOCK ABBY                                                        108
+  CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE                                                  112
+  CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE                                                  112
+  CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE                                                  114
+  CASTLE COMBE                                                       114
+  YATTON KEYNELL MANOR                                               116
+  BULLICH MANOR-HOUSE                                                116
+  SHELDON MANOR                                                      118
+  SHELDON MANOR                                                      118
+  SOUTH WRAXALL MANOR-HOUSE                                          120
+  SOUTH WRAXALL MANOR-HOUSE                                          120
+  THE GEORGE, NORTON ST. PHILIP                                      124
+  THE GEORGE, NORTON ST. PHILIP                                      124
+  CHARTERHOUSE HINTON                                                128
+  WELLOW MANOR-HOUSE                                                 128
+  OLD HOUSE NEAR CROSCOMBE                                           130
+  BECKINGTON CASTLE                                                  130
+  CROSCOMBE CHURCH                                                   132
+  CROSCOMBE                                                          132
+  LYTES CARY MANOR-HOUSE                                             134
+  LYTES CARY MANOR-HOUSE                                             134
+  ANCIENT SCREEN, CURRY RIVEL CHURCH                                 136
+  FIREPLACE, LYTES CARY                                              136
+  BARRINGTON COURT                                                   138
+  HINTON ST. GEORGE                                                  140
+  SANDFORD ORCAS MANOR-HOUSE                                         140
+  MONTACUTE HOUSE                                                    144
+  MONTACUTE PRIORY                                                   144
+  CROWCOMBE                                                          148
+  OLD HOUSE, CROWCOMBE                                               148
+  COMBE SYDENHAM                                                     152
+  COMBE SYDENHAM                                                     152
+  CROWCOMBE CHURCH                                                   156
+  DUNSTER                                                            156
+  BINDON                                                             168
+  BINDON                                                             168
+  WYLDE COURT                                                        170
+  THE GOLDEN LION, BARNSTAPLE                                        170
+  MAPPERTON MANOR-HOUSE                                              172
+  MELPLASH COURT                                                     172
+  WATERSTONE                                                         174
+  ATHELHAMPTON                                                       174
+  ATHELHAMPTON                                                       176
+  ATHELHAMPTON                                                       176
+  MONMOUTH'S TREE                                                    178
+  SERVANTS' HALL, CHIRK CASTLE                                       182
+  SERVANTS' HALL, CHIRK CASTLE                                       184
+  MARKET DRAYTON                                                     190
+  MARKET DRAYTON                                                     190
+  BLACKLADIES                                                        198
+  GREAT HALL, HADDON                                                 202
+  GREAT HALL, HADDON                                                 202
+  COURTYARD, HADDON                                                  204
+  DRAWING-ROOM, HADDON                                               204
+  WITHDRAWING-ROOM, HADDON                                           206
+  WITHDRAWING-ROOM, HADDON                                           206
+  DOORWAY, HADDON                                                    208
+  INTERIOR COURTYARD, HADDON                                         208
+  GREAT HALL, HADDON                                                 212
+  HARDWICK HALL                                                      212
+  GARLANDS, ASHFORD CHURCH                                           220
+  GATEWAY, KNOWSTHORPE HALL                                          240
+  TOMB, DARFIELD CHURCH                                              240
+  LEATHLEY STOCKS                                                    244
+  STOCKS AT WESTON                                                   244
+  MIDDLEHAM CASTLE                                                   252
+  SWINSTY HALL                                                       252
+  QUEEN'S GAP, LEYBURN "SHAWL"                                       254
+  BELLERBY OLD HALL                                                  256
+  BOLTON CASTLE                                                      256
+  ASKRIGG                                                            260
+  NAPPA HALL                                                         260
+  RICHMOND                                                           266
+  EASBY ABBEY                                                        266
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS IN HUNTINGDONSHIRE
+AND NORTH NORTHANTS
+
+
+At Huntingdon we are on familiar ground with Samuel Pepys. When he
+journeyed northwards to visit his parental house or to pay his respects
+to Lord Sandwich's family at Hinchinbrooke, he usually found suitable
+accommodation at "Goody Gorums" and "Mother" somebody else who lived
+over against the "Crown." Neither the famous posting-house the "George"
+nor the "Falcon" are mentioned in the _Diary_, but he speaks of the
+"Chequers"; however, the change of names of ancient hostelries is
+common, so in picturing the susceptible Clerk of the Admiralty chucking
+a pretty chambermaid under the chin in the old galleried yard of the
+"George," we may not be far out of our reckoning.
+
+But altogether the old George Inn is somewhat disappointing. Its
+balustraded galleries are there sure enough, with the queer old
+staircase leading up to them in one of the corners; but it has the same
+burnished-up appearance of the courtyard of the Leicester Hospital at
+Warwick. How much more pleasing both would strike the eye were there
+less paint and varnish. The Inn has been refronted, and from the street
+has quite a modern appearance.
+
+Huntingdon recalls the sterner name of Cromwell. Strange that this
+county, so proud of the Lord Protector (for has it not recently set up a
+gorgeous statue at St. Ives to his memory?), should still harbour
+red-hot Jacobites! According to _The Legitimist Calendar_, mysterious
+but harmless meetings are still held hereabouts on Oak Apple Day: a day
+elsewhere all but forgotten. Huntingdon was the headquarters of the
+Royalist army certainly upon many occasions, and when evil days fell
+upon the "Martyr King," some of his staunchest friends were here
+secretly working for his welfare.[1] When Charles passed through the
+town in 1644, the mayor, loyal to the back-bone, had prepared a speech
+to outrival the flowery welcome of his fellow-magistrates: "Although
+Rome's Hens," he said, "should daily hatch of its preposterous eggs,
+chrocodilicall chickens, yet under the Shield of Faith, by you our most
+Royal Sovereigne defended and by the King of Heavens as I stand and your
+most medicable councell, would we not be fearful to withstand them."[2]
+Though the sentence is somewhat involved, the worthy magnate doubtless
+meant well.
+
+It was the custom, by the way, so Evelyn tells us, when a monarch passed
+through Huntingdon, to meet him with a hundred ploughs as a symbol of
+the fruitful soil: the county indeed at one time was rich in vines and
+hops, and has been described by old writers as the garden of England.
+Still here as elsewhere the farmers' outlook is a poor one to-day,
+although there are, of course, exceptions.
+
+At historic Hinchinbrooke (on June 4, 1647), King Charles slept the
+first night after he was removed from Holdenby House by Cornet Joyce:
+the first stage of his _progress_ to the scaffold. In the grounds of the
+old mansion, the monarch, when Prince of Wales, and little Oliver played
+together, for the owner in those days of the ancient seat of the
+Montagues and Cromwells was the future Protector's uncle and godfather.
+Upon one occasion the boys had a stand-up fight, and the commoner, the
+senior by only one year, made his royal adversary's nose bleed,--an
+augury for fatal events to follow. The story is told how little Oliver
+fell into the Ouse and was fished out by a Royalist piscatorial parson.
+Years afterwards, when the Protector revisited the scenes of his youth
+in the midst of his triumphant army, he encountered his rescuer, and
+asked him whether he remembered the occurrence.
+
+"Truly do I," was the prompt reply; "and the Lord forgive me, but I wish
+I'd let thee drown."
+
+The Montagues became possessed of the estate in 1627. Pepys speaks of
+"the brave rooms and good pictures," which pleased him better than those
+at Audley End. The Diarist's parental house remains at Brampton, a
+little to the west of Huntingdon. In characteristic style he records a
+visit there in October 1667: "So away for Huntingdon mightily pleased
+all along the road to remember old stories, and come to Brampton at
+about noon, and there found my father and sister and brother all well:
+and here laid up our things, and up and down to see the gardens with my
+father, and the house; and do altogether find it very pretty, especially
+the little parlour and the summer-houses in the garden, only the wall do
+want greens up it, and the house is too low roofed; but that is only
+because of my coming from a house with higher ceilings."
+
+Before turning our steps northwards, let us glance at the mediaeval
+bridge that spans the river Ouse, to Godmanchester, which is referred to
+by the thirteenth-century historian _Henry of Huntingdon_ as "a noble
+city." But its nobility has long since departed, and some modern
+monstrosities in architecture make the old Tudor buildings which
+remain, blush for such brazen-faced obtrusion. Its ancient water-mill
+externally looks so dilapidated, that one would think the next
+"well-formed depression" from America would blow it to atoms. Not a bit
+of it. Its huge timber beams within, smile at such fears. It is a
+veritable fortress of timber. But although this solid wooden structure
+defies the worst of gales, there are rumours of coming electric
+tramways, and then, alas! the old mill will bow a dignified departure,
+and the curfew, which yet survives, will then also perhaps think it is
+time to be gone.
+
+At Little Stukeley, on the Great North Road some three miles above
+Huntingdon, is a queer old inn, the "Swan and Salmon," bearing upon its
+sign the date 1676. It is a good example of the brickwork of the latter
+half of the seventeenth century. Like many another ancient hostelry on
+the road to York, it is associated with Dick Turpin's exploits; and to
+give colour to the tradition, mine host can point at a little masked
+hiding-place situated somewhere at the back of the sign up in its gable
+end. It certainly looks the sort of place that could relate stories of
+highwaymen; a roomy old building, which no doubt in its day had
+trap-doors and exits innumerable for the convenience of the gentlemen of
+the road.
+
+A little off the ancient "Ermine Street," to the north-west of Stukeley,
+is the insignificant village of Coppingford, historically interesting
+from the fact that when Charles I. fled from Oxford in disguise in 1646,
+he stopped the night there at a little obscure cottage or alehouse, on
+his way to seek protection of the Scots at Southwell. "This day one
+hundred years ago," writes Dr. Stukeley in his _Memoirs_ on May 3, 1746,
+"King Charles, Mr. John Ashburnham, and Dr. Hudson came from Coppingford
+in Huntingdonshire and lay at Mr. Alderman Wolph's house, now mine, on
+Barn Hill; all the day obscure." Hudson, from whom Sir Walter drew his
+character of Dr. Rochecliffe in _Woodstock_, records the fact in the
+following words: "We lay at Copingforde in Huntingdonshire one Sunday, 3
+May; wente not to church, but I read prayers to the King; and at six at
+night he went to Stamforde. I writte from Copingforde to Mr. Skipwith
+for a horse, and he sente me one, which was brought to me at Stamforde.
+---- at Copingforde the King and me, with my hoste and hostis and two
+children, were by the fire in the hall. There was noe other chimney in
+the house."[3] The village of Little Gidding, still farther to the
+north-west, had often before been visited by Charles in connection with
+a religious establishment that had been founded there by the Ferrar
+family. A curious old silk coffer, which was given by Charles to the
+nieces of the founder, Nicholas Ferrar, upon one of these occasions,
+some years ago came into the possession of our late queen, and is still
+preserved at Windsor.
+
+A few miles to the north-east is Glatton, another remote village where
+old May-day customs yet linger. There are some quaint superstitions in
+the rural districts hereabouts. A favourite remedy for infectious
+disease is to open the window of the sickroom not so much to let in the
+fresh air as to admit the gnats, which are believed to fly away with the
+malady and die. The beneficial result is never attributed to oxygen!
+
+The Roman road (if, indeed, it is the same, for some authorities incline
+to the opinion that it ran parallel at some little distance away) is
+unpicturesque and dreary. Towering double telegraph poles recur at set
+intervals with mathematical regularity, and the breeze playing upon the
+wires aloft brings forth that long-drawn melancholy wail only to make
+the monotony more depressing. Half a mile from the main road, almost due
+east of Glatton, stands Connington Hall, where linger sad memories of
+the fate of Mary Queen of Scots. When the castle of Fotheringay was
+demolished in 1625, Sir Robert Cotton had the great Hall in which she
+was beheaded removed here. The curious carved oak chair which was used
+by the poor Queen at Fotheringay until the day of her death may now be
+seen in Connington Church, where also is the Tomb of Sir Robert, the
+founder of the famous Cottonian Library.
+
+[Illustration: THE BELL, STILTON]
+
+A couple of miles or so to the north is Stilton, which bears an air of
+decayed importance. A time-mellowed red-brick Queen Anne house, whose
+huge wooden supports, like cripples' crutches, keep it from toppling
+over, comes first in sight. In striking contrast, with its formal style
+of architecture, is the picturesque outline of the ancient inn beyond. A
+complicated flourish of ornamental ironwork, that would exasperate the
+most expert freehand draughtsman, supports the weather-beaten sign of
+solid copper. Upon the right-hand gable stands the date 1642, bringing
+with it visions of the coming struggle between King and Parliament. But
+the date is misleading, as may be seen from the stone groining upon the
+adjoining masonry. The main building was certainly erected quite a
+century earlier. Here and there modern windows have been inserted in
+place of the Tudor mullioned ones, as also have later doorways, for part
+of the building is now occupied as tenements. The archway leading into
+the courtyard has also been somewhat modernised, as may be judged from
+the corresponding internal arch, with its original curved dripstone
+above.
+
+We came upon this inn, tramping northwards in a bitter day in March.
+It looked homely and inviting, the waning sunlight tinting the stonework
+and lighting up the window casements. Enthusiastic with pleasing
+imaginings of panelled chambers and ghostly echoing corridors, we
+entered only to have our dreams speedily dispersed. In vain we sought
+for such a "best room" as greeted Mr. Chester at the "Maypole." There
+were no rich rustling hangings here, nor oaken screens enriched with
+grotesque carvings. Alas! not even a cheery fire of fagots. Nor, indeed,
+was there a bed to rest our weary bones upon. Spring cleaning was
+rampant, and the merciless east wind sweeping along the bare passages
+made one shudder more than usual at the thought of that terrible annual
+necessity (but the glory of energetic house-wives). But surely mine
+hostess of the good old days would have scrupled to thrust the traveller
+from her door: moreover to a house of refreshment, or rather
+eating-house, a stone's-throw off, uncomfortably near that rickety
+propped-up red-brick residence.
+
+With visions of the smoking bowl and lavender-scented sheets dashed to
+the ground, we turned away. But, lo! and behold a good _angel_ had come
+to the rescue. So absorbed had we been with the possibilities of the
+"Bell" that the "Angel" opposite had quite been overlooked. This rival
+inn of Georgian date furnished us with cosy quarters. From our
+flower-bedecked window the whole front of the old "Bell" could be
+leisurely studied in all its varying stages of light and shade--an inn
+with a past; an object-lesson for the philosopher to ruminate upon. Yes,
+in its day one can picture scenes of lavish, shall we say Ainsworthian
+hospitality. There is a smack of huge venison pasties, fatted capons,
+and of roasted peacocks about this hoary hostel. And its stables; one
+has but to stroll up an adjacent lane to get some idea of the once vast
+extent of its outbuildings. The ground they covered must have occupied
+nearly half the village. Here was stabling for over eighty horses, and
+before the birth of trains, thirty-six coaches pulled up daily at the
+portal for hungry passengers to refresh or rest.
+
+The famous cheese, by the way, was first sold at this inn; but why it
+was dubbed Stilton instead of Dalby in Leicestershire, where it was
+first manufactured, is a mystery. Like its _vis-a-vis_, the "Angel" is
+far different from what it was in its flourishing days. The main
+building is now occupied for other purposes, and its dignity has long
+since departed. To-day Stilton looks on its last legs. The goggled
+motor-fiend sweeps by to Huntingdon or Peterborough while Stilton rubs
+its sleepy eyes. But who can tell but that its fortunes may yet revive.
+Was not Broadway dying a natural death when Jonathan, who invariably
+tells us what treasures we possess, stepped in and made it popular? Some
+enterprising landlord might do worse than take the old "Bell" in hand
+and ring it to a profitable tune. But judging by appearances, visitors
+to-day, at least in March, are few and far between.
+
+Half the charm of Stilton lies in the fact that there is no hurry. It is
+quite refreshing in these days of rush. For instance, you want to catch
+a train at Peterborough,--at least we did, for that was the handiest way
+of reaching Oundle, some seven miles to the west of Stilton as the crow
+flies. Sitting on thorns, we awaited the convenience of the horse as to
+whether his accustomed jog-trot would enable us to catch our train. We
+_did_ catch it truly, but the anxiety was a terrible experience.
+
+Oundle is full of old inns. The "Turk's Head," facing the church, is a
+fine and compact specimen of Jacobean architecture. It was a brilliant
+morning when we stood in the churchyard looking up at the
+ball-surmounted gables standing out in bold relief against the clear
+blue sky, while the caw of a colony of rooks sailing overhead seemed
+quite in harmony with the old-world surroundings.
+
+More important and flourishing is the "Talbot," which looks
+self-conscious of the fact that in its walls are incorporated some of
+the remains of no less historic a building than Fotheringay Castle,
+whose moat and fragmentary walls are to be seen some three and a half
+miles to the north of the town. The fortress, with its sad and tragic
+memories of Mary Queen of Scots, was demolished after James came to the
+throne, and its fine oak staircase, by repute the same by which she
+descended to the scaffold, was re-erected in the "Talbot." The courtyard
+is picturesque. The old windows which light the staircase, which also
+are said to have come from Fotheringay, are angular at the base, and
+have an odd and pleasing appearance.
+
+Two ancient almshouses, with imposing entrance gates, are well worth
+inspection. There is a graceful little pinnacle surmounting one of the
+gable ends, at which we were curiously gazing when one of the aged
+inmates came out in alarm to see if the chimney was on fire.
+
+Fotheringay church, with its lantern tower and flying buttresses, is
+picturesquely situated close to the river Nene, and with the bridge
+makes a charming picture. The older bridge of Queen Mary's time was
+angular, with square arches, as may be seen from a print of the early
+part of the eighteenth century. In this is shown the same scanty remains
+of the historic Castle: a wall with a couple of Gothic doorways, all
+that survived of the formidable fortress that was the unfortunate
+queen's last prison-house. As at Cumnor, where poor Amy Robsart was
+done to death in a manner which certainly Elizabeth hinted at regarding
+her troublesome cousin, there is little beyond the foundations from
+which to form an idea of the building. It was divided by a double moat,
+which is still to be seen, as well as the natural earthwork upon which
+the keep stood. The queen's apartments, that towards the end were
+stripped of all emblems of royalty, were situated above and to the south
+of the great hall, into which she had to descend by a staircase to the
+scaffold. Some ancient thorn trees now flourish upon the spot. The
+historian Fuller, who visited the castle prior to its demolition, found
+the following lines from an old ballad scratched with a diamond upon a
+window-pane of Mary's prison-chamber:
+
+  "From the top of all my trust
+  Mishap hath laid me in the dust."
+
+Though Mary's mock trial took place at Fotheringay in the "Presence
+Chamber," she was actually condemned in the Star Chamber at Westminster;
+and it may here be stated that that fine old room may yet be seen not
+very many miles away, at Wormleighton, near the Northamptonshire border
+of south-east Warwickshire. A farmhouse near Fotheringay is still
+pointed out where the executioner lodged the night before the deed; and
+some claim this distinction for the ancient inn in which are
+incorporated some remains of the castle.
+
+As is known, the Queen of Scots' body was buried first in Peterborough
+Cathedral, whence it was removed to Westminster Abbey. There is a
+superstition in Northamptonshire that if a body after interment be
+removed, it bodes misfortune to the surviving members of the family.
+This was pointed out at the time to James I.; but superstitious as he
+was, he did not alter his plans, and the death of Prince Henry shortly
+afterwards seemed to confirm this belief.[4]
+
+But there are other memories of famous names in history, for the head of
+the White Rose family, Richard of York, was buried in the church, and
+his duchess, Cecilia Neville, as well as Edward of York, whose death at
+Agincourt is immortalised by Shakespeare. When the older church was
+dismantled and the bodies removed to their present destination, a silver
+ribbon was discovered round the Duchess Cecilia's neck upon which a
+pardon from Rome was clearly written. The windows of the church once
+were rich in painted glass; and at the fine fifteenth-century font it is
+conjectured Richard III. was baptized, for he was born at the Castle.
+Crookback's badge, the boar, may still be seen in the church, and the
+Yorkist falcon and fetterlock are displayed on the summit of the vane
+upon the tower. Also some carved stalls, which came from here, in the
+churches of Tansor and Hemington to the south of Fotheringay, bear the
+regal badges and crest. The falcon and the fetterlock also occur in the
+monuments to the Dukes of York, which were rebuilt by Queen Elizabeth
+when the older tombs had fallen to decay. The allegiance to the
+fascinating Queen of Scots is far from dead, for in February 1902, and
+doubtless more recently, a gentleman journeyed specially from Edinburgh
+to Fotheringay to place a tribute to her martyrdom in the form of a
+large cross of immortelles bearing the Scots crown and Mary's monogram,
+and a black bordered white silk sash attached.
+
+A few miles to the west of this historic spot are the fine Tudor houses
+Deene and Kirby: the former still a palatial residence; the latter,
+alas! a ruin fast falling to decay. Deene, with its battlemented towers
+and turrets and buttressed walls, is a noble-looking structure, with
+numerous shields of arms and heraldic devices carved upon the masonry.
+These are of the great families, Brudenel, Montagu, Bruce, Bulstrode,
+etc., whose intermarriages are emblazoned in painted glass in the top of
+the mullioned windows of the hall. Sir Thomas Brudenel, the first Earl
+of Cardigan, who died three years after the Restoration, was a typical
+old cavalier after the style of Sir Henry Lee in _Woodstock_; and in
+the manor are preserved many of his manuscripts written during his
+twenty years' confinement in the Tower. In the great hall there is a
+blocked-up entrance to a subterranean passage running towards Kirby, and
+through this secret despatches are said to have been carried in the time
+of the Civil War; and at the back of a fireplace in the same apartment
+is a hiding-place sufficiently large to contain a score of people
+standing up. One of the rooms is called Henry VII.'s room, as that
+monarch when Earl of Richmond is said to have ridden from Bosworth Field
+to seek refuge at Deene, then a monastery.
+
+[Illustration: WOTHORPE MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+Among the numerous portraits are the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was slain
+by the second Duke of Buckingham in the notorious duel, and his wife
+Lady Anne Brudenel, who was daughter of the second Earl of Cardigan.
+Some time before the poor plain little duchess suspected that she had a
+formidable rival in the beautiful countess, she was returning from a
+visit to Deene to her house near Stamford, where her reckless husband
+just then found it convenient to hide himself, as a warrant for high
+treason was out against him, when she noticed a suspicious little
+cavalcade travelling in the same direction. Ordering the horses to be
+whipped up, she arrived in time to give the alarm. The duke had just set
+out for Burleigh House with some ladies in his company, and, says
+Clarendon, the sergeant "made so good haste that he was in view of the
+coach, and saw the duke alight out of the coach and lead a lady into the
+house, upon which the door of the court was shut before he could get to
+it. He knocked loudly at that and other doors that were all shut, so
+that he could not get into the house though it were some hours before
+sunset in the month of May."[5] Pepys was strolling in the park and met
+Sergeant Bearcroft "who was sent for the Duke of Buckingham, to have
+brought his prisoner to the Tower. He come to towne this day and brings
+word that being overtaken and outrid by the Duchesse of Buckingham
+within a few miles of the duke's house of Westhorp, he believes she got
+thither about a quarter of an hour before him, and so had time to
+consider; so that when he came, the doors were kept shut against him.
+The next day, coming with officers of the neighbour market-town
+[Stamford] to force open the doors, they were open for him, but the duke
+gone, so he took horse presently and heard upon the road that the Duke
+of Buckingham was gone before him for London. So that he believes he is
+this day also come to towne before him; but no newes is yet heard of
+him."[6] Many blunders have been made in reference to the duke's house
+of "Westhorp." Some have called it "Owthorp" and others "Westhorpe" in
+Suffolk, the demolished mansion of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. The
+place referred to is really Wothorpe manor-house, the remains of which
+stand some two miles to the south of Stamford and ten to the north of
+Deene. The existing portion consists of four towers, the lower part of
+which is square and the upper octagonal, presumably having been at one
+time surmounted by cupolas. The windows are long and narrow, having only
+one mullion running parallel across. Beneath the moulding of the summit
+of each tower are circular loopholes. It is evidently of Elizabethan
+date, but much of the ornamental detail is lost in the heavy mantle of
+ivy and the trees which encircle it.
+
+[Illustration: KIRBY HALL.]
+
+That that stately Elizabethan mansion, Kirby Hall (which is close to
+Deene), should ever have been allowed to fall to ruin is most
+regrettable and deplorable. It was one of John Thorpe's masterpieces,
+the architect of palatial Burleigh, of Holland House and Audley End, and
+other famous historic houses. He laid the foundation-stone in 1570, and
+that other great master Inigo Jones made additions in the reign of
+Charles I. The founder of Kirby was Sir Christopher Hatton, who is said
+to have first danced into the virgin queen's favour at a masque at
+Court. The Earl of Leicester probably first was famous in this way, if
+we may judge from the quaint painting at Penshurst, where he is bounding
+her several feet into the air; but was not so accomplished as Sir
+Christopher, who in his official robes of Lord Chancellor danced in the
+Hall of the Inner Temple with the seals and mace of his office before
+him, an undignified proceeding, reminding one of the scene in one of the
+Gilbert and Sullivan operas.
+
+[Illustration: DOORWAY, KIRBY HALL.]
+
+[Illustration: GATEWAY, KIRBY HALL.]
+
+Kirby must have been magnificent in its day; and when we consider that
+it was in occupation by the Chancellor's descendant, the Earl of
+Winchelsea, in 1830 or even later, one may judge by seeing it how
+rapidly a neglected building can fall into decay. Even in our own memory
+a matter of twenty years has played considerable havoc, and cleared off
+half the roof. Standing in the deserted weed-grown courtyard, one cannot
+but grieve to see the widespread destruction of such beautiful
+workmanship. The graceful fluted Ionic pilasters that intersect the
+lofty mullioned windows are falling to pieces bit by bit, and the
+fantastic stone pinnacles above and on the carved gable ends are
+disappearing one by one. But much of the glass is still in the windows,
+and some of the rooms are not all yet open to the weather, and the great
+hall and music gallery and the "Library" with fine bay window are both
+in a fair state of preservation. Is it yet too much to hope that pity
+may be taken upon what is undoubtedly one of the finest Elizabethan
+houses in England? The north part of the Inner Court is represented in
+S. E. Waller's pathetic picture "The Day of Reckoning," which has been
+engraved.
+
+Some three miles to the south of Kirby is the village of Corby, famous
+for its surrounding woods, and a curious custom called the "Poll Fair,"
+which takes place every twenty years. Should a stranger happen to be
+passing through the village when the date falls due, he is liable to be
+captured and carried on a pole to the stocks, which ancient instrument
+of punishment is there, and put to use on these occasions. He may
+purchase his liberty by handing over any coin he happens to have. It
+certainly is a rather eccentric way of commemorating the charter granted
+by Elizabeth and confirmed by Charles II. by which the residents (all of
+whom are subjected to similar treatment) are exempt from market tolls
+and jury service.
+
+A pair of stocks stood formerly at the foot of the steps of the graceful
+Eleanor Cross at Geddington to the south of Corby. Of the three
+remaining memorials said to have been erected by Edward I. at every
+place where the coffin of his queen rested on its way from Hardeby in
+Lincolnshire to Westminster Abbey, Geddington Cross is by far the most
+graceful and in the best condition. The other two are at Waltham and
+Northampton. Originally there were fifteen Eleanor crosses, including
+Hardeby, Lincoln, Stony Stratford, Woburn, Dunstable, St. Albans,
+Cheapside, and Charing Cross. The last two, the most elaborate of all,
+as is known, were destroyed by order of Lord Mayor Pennington in 1643
+and 1647, accompanied by the blast of trumpets.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] _See Memoirs of the Martyr King._
+
+[2] _Evelyn's Diary_, vol. iv. p. 134, 1870 ed.
+
+[3] See _Memoirs of the Martyr King_, p. 73.
+
+[4] See _Turner's History of Remarkable Providences_, 1677.
+
+[5] _Continuation of the Life of Lord Clarendon._
+
+[6] _Diary_, 3 March 1666-67.
+
+
+
+
+SOME SUFFOLK NOOKS
+
+
+The idea of calling pretty little Mildenhall in north-west Suffolk a
+town, seems out of place. It is snug and sleepy and prosperous-looking,
+an inviting nook to forget the noise and bustle of a town in the
+ordinary sense of the word. May it long continue so, and may the day be
+long distant when that terrible invention, the electric tram, is
+introduced to spoil the peace and harmony. Mildenhall is one of those
+old-world places where one may be pretty sure in entering the snug old
+courtyard of its ancient inn, that one will be treated rather as a
+friend than a traveller. Facing the "Bell" is the church, remarkable for
+the unique tracery of its early-English eastern window, and for its
+exceptionally fine open hammer-beam carved oak roof, with bold carved
+spandrels and large figures of angels with extended wings, and the
+badges of Henry V., the swan and antelope, displayed in the south aisle.
+
+In a corner of the little market-square is a curious hexagonal timber
+market-cross of this monarch's time, roofed with slabs of lead set
+diagonally, and adding to the picturesque effect. The centre part runs
+through the roof to a considerable height, and is surmounted by a
+weather-cock. Standing beneath the low-pitched roof, one may get a good
+idea of the massiveness of construction of these old Gothic structures;
+an object-lesson to the jerry builder of to-day. The oaken supports are
+relieved with graceful mouldings.
+
+Within bow-shot of the market-cross is the gabled Jacobean manor-house
+of the Bunburys, a weather-worn wing of which abuts upon the street. The
+family name recalls associations with the beautiful sisters whom
+Goldsmith dubbed "Little Comedy" and the "Jessamy Bride." The original
+"Sir Joshua" of these ladies may be seen at Barton Hall, another seat of
+the Bunburys a few miles away, where they played good-natured practical
+jokes upon their friend the poet. In a room of the Mildenhall mansion
+hangs a portrait of a less beautiful woman, but sufficiently attractive
+to meet with the approval of a critical connoisseur. When the Merry
+Monarch took unto himself a wife, this portrait of the little Portuguese
+woman was sent for him to see; and presumably it was flattering, for
+when Catherine arrived in person, his Majesty was uncivil enough to
+inquire whether they had sent him a bat instead of a woman.
+
+A delightful walk by shady lanes and cornfields, and along the banks of
+the river Lark, leads to another fine old house, Wamil Hall, a portion
+only of the original structure; but it would be difficult to find a more
+pleasing picture than is formed by the remaining wing. It is a typical
+manor-house, with ball-surmounted gables, massive mullioned windows, and
+a fine Elizabethan gateway in the lofty garden wall, partly ivy-grown,
+and with the delicate greys and greens of lichens upon the old stone
+masonry.
+
+In a south-easterly direction from Mildenhall there is charming open
+heathy country nearly all the way to West Stow Hall, some seven or eight
+miles away. The remains of this curious old structure consist
+principally of the gatehouse, octagonal red-brick towers surmounted by
+ornamental cupolas with a pinnacled step-gable in the centre and the
+arms of Mary of France beneath it, and ornamental Tudor brickwork above
+the entrance. The passage leading from this entrance to the main
+structure consists of an open arcade, and the upper portion and
+adjoining wing are of half-timber construction. This until recently has
+been cased over in plaster; but the towers having become unsafe, some
+restorations have been absolutely necessary, the result of which is that
+the plaster is being stripped off, revealing the worn red-brick and
+carved oak beams beneath. Moreover, the moat, long since filled up, is
+to be reinstated, and, thanks to the noble owner, Lord Cadogan, all its
+original features will be most carefully brought to light. In a room
+above are some black outline fresco paintings of figures in Elizabethan
+costume, suggestive of four of the seven ages of man. Most conspicuous
+is the lover paying very marked attentions to a damsel who may or may
+not represent Henry VIII.'s sister at the time of her courtship by the
+valiant Brandon, Duke of Suffolk; anyway the house was built by Sir John
+Crofts, who belonged to the queen-dowager's household, and he may have
+wished to immortalise that romantic attachment. A gentleman with a
+parrot-like hawk upon his wrist says by an inscription, "Thus do I all
+the day"; while the lover observes, "Thus do I while I may." A third
+person, presumably getting on in years, says with a sigh, "Thus did I
+while I might"; and he of the "slippered pantaloon" age groans, "Good
+Lord, will this world last for ever!" In a room adjoining, we were told,
+Queen Elizabeth slept during one of her progresses through the country,
+or maybe it was Mary Tudor who came to see Sir John; but the "White
+Lady" who issues from one of the rooms in the main building at 12
+o'clock p.m. so far has not been identified.
+
+In his lordship's stables close by we had the privilege of seeing "a
+racer" who had won sixteen or more "seconds," as well as a budding Derby
+winner of the future. Culford is a stately house in a very trim and
+well-cared-for park. It looks quite modern, but the older mansion has
+been incorporated with it. In Charles II.'s day his Majesty paid
+occasional visits to Culford _en route_ from Euston Hall to Newmarket,
+and Pepys records an incident there which was little to his host's
+(Lord Cornwallis') credit. The rector's daughter, a pretty girl, was
+introduced to the king, whose unwelcome attentions caused her to make a
+precipitate escape, and, leaping from some height, she killed herself,
+"which, if true," says Pepys, "is very sad." Certainly Charles does not
+show to advantage in Suffolk. The Diarist himself saw him at Little
+Saxham Hall[7] (to the south-west of Culford), the seat of Lord Crofts,
+going to bed, after a heavy drinking bout with his boon companions
+Sedley, Buckhurst, and Bab May.
+
+The church is in the main modern, but there is a fine tomb of Lady
+Bacon, who is represented life-size nursing her youngest child, while on
+either side in formal array stand her other five children. Her husband
+is reclining full length at her feet.
+
+Hengrave Hall, one of the finest Tudor mansions in England, is close to
+Culford. Shorn of its ancient furniture and pictures (for, alas! a few
+years ago there was a great sale here), the house is still of
+considerable interest; but the absence of colour--its staring whiteness
+and bare appearance--on the whole is disappointing, and compared with
+less architecturally fine houses, such as Kentwell or Rushbrooke, it is
+inferior from a picturesque point of view. Still the outline of gables
+and turreted chimneys is exceptionally fine and stately. It was built
+between the years 1525 and 1538. The gatehouse has remarkable
+mitre-headed turrets, and a triple bay-window bearing the royal arms of
+France and England quarterly, supported by a lion and a dragon. The
+entrance is flanked on either side by an ornamental pillar similar in
+character to the turrets. The house was formerly moated and had a
+drawbridge, as at Helmingham in this county. These were done away with
+towards the end of the eighteenth century, when a great part of the
+original building was demolished and the interior entirely
+reconstructed. The rooms included the "Queen's Chamber," where Elizabeth
+slept when she was entertained here after the lavish style at Kenilworth
+in 1578, by Sir Thomas Kytson. From the Kitsons, Hengrave came to the
+Darcys and Gages.
+
+In the vicinity of Bury there are many fine old houses, but for
+historical interest none so interesting as Rushbrooke Hall, which stands
+about the same distance from the town as Hengrave in the opposite
+direction, namely, to the south-west. It is an Elizabethan house, with
+corner octagonal turrets to which many alterations were made in the next
+century: the windows, porch, etc., being of Jacobean architecture. It is
+moated, with an array of old stone piers in front, upon which the
+silvery green lichen stands out in harmonious contrast with the rich
+purple red of the Tudor brickwork. The old mansion is full of Stuart
+memories. Here lived the old cavalier Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans,
+who owed his advancement to Queen Henrietta Maria, to whom he acted as
+secretary during the Civil War, and to whom he was privately married
+when she became a widow and lived in Paris. He was a handsome man, as
+may be judged from his full-length portrait here by Vandyck, though he
+is said to have been somewhat ungainly. In the "State drawing-room,"
+where the maiden queen held Court when she visited the earl's ancestor
+Sir Robert Jermyn in 1578, may be seen two fine inlaid cabinets of wood
+set with silver, bearing the monogram of Henrietta Maria. Jermyn
+survived his royal wife the dowager-queen over fourteen years. Evelyn
+saw him a few months before he died. "Met My Lord St. Albans," he says,
+"now grown so blind that he could not see to take his meat. He has lived
+a most easy life, in plenty even abroad, whilst His Majesty was a
+sufferer; he has lost immense sums at play, which yet, at about eighty
+years old, he continues, having one that sits by him to name the spots
+on the cards. He eat and drank with extraordinary appetite. He is a
+prudent old courtier, and much enriched since His Majesty's return."[8]
+
+Charles I.'s leather-covered travelling trunk is also preserved at
+Rushbrooke as well as his night-cap and night-shirt, and the silk
+brocade costume of his great-grandson, Prince Charles Edward. An emblem
+of loyalty to the Stuarts also may be seen in the great hall, a
+bas-relief in plaster representing Charles II. concealed in the Boscobel
+oak. Many of the bedrooms remain such as they were two hundred years
+ago, with their fine old tapestries, faded window curtains, and tall
+canopied beds. One is known as "Heaven" and another as "Hell," from the
+rich paintings upon the walls and ceilings. The royal bedchamber,
+Elizabeth's room, contains the old bed in which she slept, with its
+velvet curtains and elaborately worked counter-pane. The house is rich
+in portraits, and the walls of the staircase are lined from floor to
+ceiling with well-known characters of the seventeenth century, from
+James I. to Charles II.'s confidant, Edward Progers, who died in 1714,
+at the age of ninety-six, of the anguish of cutting four new teeth.[9]
+Here also is Agnes de Rushbrooke, who haunts the Hall. There is a grim
+story told of her body being cast into the moat; moreover, there is a
+certain bloodstain pointed out to verify the tale.
+
+Then there is the old ballroom, and the Roman Catholic chapel, now a
+billiard-room, and the library, rich in ancient manuscripts and
+elaborate carvings by Grinling Gibbons. The old gardens also are quite
+in character with the house, with its avenues of hornbeams known as
+Lovers' Walk, and the site of the old labyrinth or maze.
+
+Leaving Rushbrooke with its Stuart memories, our way lies to the
+south-east; but to the south-west there are also many places of
+interest, such as Hardwick, Hawstead, Plumpton, etc. At the last-named
+place, in an old house with high Mansard roofs resembling a French
+chateau, lived an eccentric character of whom many anecdotes are told,
+old Alderman Harmer, one of which is that in damp weather he used to sit
+in a kind of pulpit in one of the topmost rooms, with wooden boots on!
+
+For the remains of Hawstead Place, once visited in State by Queen
+Elizabeth, who dropped her fan in the moat to test the gallantry of her
+host, we searched in vain. A very old woman in mob-cap in pointing out
+the farm so named observed, "T'were nowt of much account nowadays, tho'
+wonderful things went on there years gone by." This was somewhat vague.
+We went up to the house and asked if an old gateway of which we had
+heard still existed. The servant girl looked aghast. Had we asked the
+road to Birmingham she could scarcely have been more dumbfounded. "No,
+there was no old gateway there," she said. We asked another villager,
+but he shook his head. "There was a lady in the church who died from a
+box on the ear!" This was scarcely to the point, and since we have
+discovered that the ancient Jacobean gateway is at Hawstead Place after
+all, we cannot place the Suffolk rustic intelligence above the average.
+It is in the kitchen garden, and in the alcoves of the pillars are
+moulded bricks with initials and hearts commemorating the union of Sir
+Thomas Cullum with the daughter of Sir Henry North. The moat is still to
+be seen, but the bridge spanning it has given way. The principal ruins
+of the old mansion were removed about a century ago.
+
+Gedding Hall, midway between Bury and Needham Market, is moated and
+picturesque, and before it was restored must have been a perfect
+picture, for as it is now it just misses being what it might have been
+under very careful treatment. A glaring red-brick tower has been added,
+which looks painfully new and out of keeping; and beneath two quaint old
+gables, a front door has been placed which would look very well in
+Fitz-John's Avenue or Bedford Park, but certainly not here. When old
+houses are nowadays so carefully restored so that occasionally it is
+really difficult to see where the old work ends and the new begins, one
+regrets that the care that is being bestowed upon West Stow could not
+have been lavished here.
+
+We come across another instance of bad restoration at Bildeston. There
+is a good old timber house at the top of the village street which,
+carefully treated, would have been a delight to the eye; but the carved
+oak corner-post has been enveloped in hideous yellow brickwork in such a
+fashion that one would rather have wished the place had been pulled
+down. But at the farther end of the village there is another old timber
+house, Newbury Farm, with carved beams and very lofty porch, which
+affords a fine specimen of village architecture of the fifteenth
+century. Within, there is a fine black oak ceiling of massive moulded
+beams, a good example of the lavish way in which oak was used in these
+old buildings.
+
+Hadleigh is rich in seventeenth-century houses with ornamental plaster
+fronts and carved oak beams and corbels. One with wide projecting eaves
+and many windows bears the date 1676, formed out of the lead setting of
+the little panes of glass. Some bear fantastical designs upon the
+pargeting, half obliterated by continual coats of white or yellow wash,
+with varying dates from James I. to Dutch William.
+
+A lofty battlemented tower in the churchyard, belonging to the rectory,
+was built towards the end of the fifteenth century by Archdeacon
+Pykenham. Some mural paintings in one of its rooms depict the adjacent
+hills and river and the interior of the church, and a turret-chamber has
+a kind of hiding-place or strong-room, with a stout door for defence.
+Not far from this rectory gatehouse is a half-timber building almost
+contemporary, with narrow Gothic doors, made up-to-date with an artistic
+shade of green. The exterior of the church is fine, but the interior is
+disappointing in many ways. It was restored at that period of the
+Victorian era when art in the way of church improvement had reached its
+lowest ebb. But the church had suffered previously, for a puritanical
+person named Dowsing smashed the majority of the painted windows as
+"superstitious pictures." Fortunately some fine linen panelling in the
+vestry has been preserved. The old Court Farm, about half a mile to the
+north of the town, has also suffered considerably; for but little
+remains beyond the entrance gate of Tudor date. By local report,
+Cromwell is here responsible; but the place was a monastery once, and
+Thomas Cromwell dismantled it. It would be interesting to know if the
+Lord Protector ever wrote to the editor of the _Weekly Post_, to refute
+any connection with his namesake of the previous century. Though the
+"White Lion" Inn has nothing architecturally attractive, there is an
+old-fashioned comfort about it. The courtyard is festooned round with
+clematis of over a century's growth, and in the summer you step out of
+your sleeping quarters into a delightful green arcade. The ostler, too,
+is a typical one of the good old coaching days, and doubtless has a
+healthy distaste for locomotion by the means of petrol.
+
+The corner of the county to the south-east of Hadleigh, and bounded by
+the rivers Stour and Orwell, could have no better recommendation for
+picturesqueness than the works of the famous painter Constable. He was
+never happier than at work near his native village, Flatford, where
+to-day the old mill affords a delightful rural studio to some painters
+of repute. The old timber bridge and the willow-bordered Stour, winding
+in and out the valley, afford charming subjects for the brush; and
+Dedham on the Essex border is delightful. Gainsborough also was very
+partial to the scenery on the banks of the Orwell.
+
+In the churchyard of East Bergholt, near Flatford, is a curious,
+deep-roofed wooden structure, a cage containing the bells, which are
+hung upside down. Local report says that his Satanic Majesty had the
+same objection to the completion of the sacred edifices that he had for
+Cologne Cathedral, consequently the tower still remains conspicuous by
+its absence. The "Hare and Hounds" Inn has a finely moulded plaster
+ceiling. It is worthy of note that the Folkards, an old Suffolk family,
+have owned the inn for upwards of six generations.
+
+Little and Great Wenham both possess interesting manor-houses: the
+former particularly so, as it is one of the earliest specimens of
+domestic architecture in the kingdom, or at least the first house where
+Flemish bricks were used in construction. For this reason, no doubt,
+trippers from Ipswich are desirous of leaving the measurements of their
+boots deep-cut into the leads of the roof with their initials duly
+recorded. Naturally the owner desires that some discrimination be now
+shown as to whom may be admitted. The building is compact, with but few
+rooms; but the hall on the first floor and the chapel are in a
+wonderfully good state of repair,--indeed the house would make a much
+more desirable residence than many twentieth-century dwellings of equal
+dimensions. Great Wenham manor-house is of Tudor date, with pretty
+little pinnacles at the corners of gable ends which peep over a high
+red-brick wall skirting the highroad.
+
+From here to Erwarton, which is miles from anywhere near the tongue of
+land dividing the two rivers, some charming pastoral scenery recalls
+peeps we have of it from the brush of Constable. At one particularly
+pretty spot near Harkstead some holiday folks had assembled to enjoy
+themselves, and looked sadly bored at a company of Salvationists who had
+come to destroy the peace of the scene.
+
+[Illustration: ERWARTON HALL.]
+
+Erwarton Hall is a ghostly looking old place, with an odd-shaped
+early-Jacobean gateway, with nine great pinnacles rising above its roof.
+It faces a wide and desolate stretch of road, with ancient trees and
+curious twisted roots, in front, and a pond: picturesque but melancholy
+looking. The house is Elizabethan, of dark red-brick, and the old
+mullioned windows peer over the boundary-wall as if they would like to
+see something of the world, even in this remote spot. In the mansion,
+which this succeeded, lived Anne Boleyn's aunt, Amata, Lady Calthorpe,
+and here the unfortunate queen is said to have spent some of the
+happiest days of girlhood,--a peaceful spot, indeed, compared with her
+subsequent surroundings. Local tradition long back has handed down the
+story that it was the queen's wish her heart should be buried at
+Erwarton; and it had well-nigh been forgotten, when some sixty-five
+years ago a little casket was discovered during some alterations to one
+of the walls of the church. It was heart-shaped, and contained but dust,
+and was eventually placed in a vault of the Cornwallis family. Sir W.
+Hastings D'Oyly, Bart., in writing an interesting article upon this
+subject a few years back,[10] pointed out that it has never been
+decided where Anne Boleyn's remains actually are interred, though they
+were buried, of course, in the first instance by her brother, Viscount
+Rochford, in the Tower. There are erroneous traditions, both at Salle in
+Norfolk and Horndon-on-the-Hill in Essex, that Anne Boleyn was buried
+there. There are some fine old monuments in the Erwarton church, a
+cross-legged crusader, and a noseless knight and lady, with elaborate
+canopy, members of the Davilliers family. During the Civil War five of
+the bells were removed from the tower and broken up for shot for the
+defence of the old Hall against the Parliamentarians. At least so goes
+the story. An octagonal Tudor font is in a good state of preservation,
+and a few old rusty helmets would look better hung up on the walls than
+placed upon the capital of a column.
+
+The story of Anne Boleyn's heart recalls that of Sir Nicholas Crispe,
+whose remains were recently reinterred when the old London church of St.
+Mildred's in Bread Street was pulled down. The heart of the cavalier,
+who gave large sums of money to Charles I. in his difficulties, is
+buried in Hammersmith Old Church, and by the instructions of his will
+the vessel which held it was to be opened every year and a glass of wine
+poured upon it.
+
+Some curious vicissitudes are said to have happened to the heart of the
+great Montrose. It came into the possession of Lady Napier, his nephew's
+wife, who had it embalmed and enclosed in a steel case of the size of an
+egg, which opened with a spring, made from the blade of his sword, and
+the relic was given by her to the then Marchioness of Montrose. Soon
+afterwards it was lost, but eventually traced to a collection of curios
+in Holland, and returned into the possession of the fifth Lord Napier,
+who gave it to his daughter. When she married she went to reside in
+Madeira, where the little casket was stolen by a native, under the
+belief that it was a magic charm, and sold to an Indian chief, from whom
+it was at length recovered; but the possessor in returning to Europe in
+1792, having to spend some time in France during that revolutionary
+period, thought it advisable to leave the little treasure in possession
+of a lady friend at Boulogne; but as luck would have it, this lady died
+unexpectedly, and no clue was forthcoming as to where she had hidden the
+relic.
+
+But a still more curious story is told of the heart of Louis XIV. An
+ancestor of Sir William Harcourt, at the time of the French Revolution
+had given to him by a canon of St. Denis the great monarch's heart,
+which he had annexed from a casket at the time the royal tombs were
+demolished by the mob. It resembled a small piece of shrivelled leather,
+an inch or so long. Many years afterwards the late Dr. Buckland, Dean of
+Westminster, during a visit to the Harcourts was shown the curiosity. We
+will quote the rest in Mr Labouchere's words, for he it was who related
+the story in _Truth_. "He (Dr. Buckland) was then very old. He had some
+reputation as a man of science, and the scientific spirit moved him to
+wet his finger, rub it on the heart, and put the finger to his mouth.
+After that, before he could be stopped, he put the heart in his mouth
+and swallowed it, whether by accident or design will never be known.
+Very shortly afterwards he died and was buried in Westminster Abbey. It
+is impossible that he could ever have digested the thing. It must have
+been a pretty tough organ to start with, and age had almost petrified
+it. Consequently the heart of Louis XIV. must now be reposing in
+Westminster Abbey enclosed in the body of an English dean."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[7] The old Hall was pulled down in 1771.
+
+[8] _Evelyn's Diary_, Sept. 18, 1683.
+
+[9] Descendants of Proger, or Progers, are still living in Bury St.
+Edmunds.
+
+[10] _The Antiquary_, vol. xxxviii.
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS IN NORFOLK
+
+
+Wells-next-the-Sea, on the north coast of Norfolk, sounds attractive,
+and looks attractive on the map; but that is about all that can be said
+in its favour, for a more depressing place would be difficult to find.
+Even Holkham, with all its art treasures, leaves a pervading impression
+of chill and gloom. The architects of the middle of the eighteenth
+century had no partiality for nooks and corners in the mansions they
+designed. Vastness and discomfort seems to have been their principal
+aim. Well might the noble earl for whom it was built have observed, "It
+is a melancholy thing to stand alone in one's own country." The advent
+of the motor car must indeed be welcome, to bring the place in touch
+with life.
+
+We were attracted to the village of Stiffkey, to the east of Wells,
+mainly by a magazine article fresh in our memory, of some of its
+peculiarities, conspicuous among which was its weird red-headed
+inhabitants. The race of people, however, must have died out, for what
+few villagers we encountered were very ordinary ones: far from
+ill-favoured. Possibly they still invoke the aid of the local "wise
+woman," as they do in many other parts of Norfolk, so therein they are
+no further behind the times than their neighbours.
+
+We heard of an instance farther south, for example, where the head of an
+establishment, as was his wont, having disposed of his crop of potatoes,
+disappeared for a week with the proceeds; and returning at length in a
+very merry condition, his good wife, in the hopes of frightening him,
+unknown to him removed his watch from his pocket. Next morning in sober
+earnest he went with his sole remaining sixpence to consult the wise
+woman of the village, who promptly told him the thief was in his own
+house. Consequently the watch was produced, and the lady who had
+purloined it, instead of teaching a lesson, was soundly belaboured with
+a broom-handle!
+
+[Illustration: EAST BARSHAM MANOR.]
+
+Stiffkey Hall is a curious Elizabethan gabled building with a massive
+flint tower, built, it is said, by Sir Nathaniel Bacon, the brother of
+the philosopher, but it never was completed. Far more picturesque and
+interesting are the remains of East Barsham manor-house, some seven
+miles to the south of Wells. Although it contained some of the finest
+ornamental Tudor brickwork in England when we were there, and possibly
+still, the old place could have been had for a song. It had the
+reputation of being haunted, and was held in awe. The gatehouse, bearing
+the arms and ensigns of Henry VIII., reminds one of a bit of Hampton
+Court, and the chimneys upon the buildings on the northern side of the
+Court are as fine as those at Compton Wyniates. The wonder is that in
+these days of appreciation of beautiful architecture nobody has restored
+it back into a habitable mansion. That such ruins as this or Kirby Hall
+or Burford Priory should remain to drop to pieces, seems a positive sin.
+A couple of miles to the west of Barsham is Great Snoring, whose
+turreted parsonage is also rich in early-Tudor moulded brickwork, as is
+also the case at Thorpland Hall to the south.
+
+One grieves to think that the old Hall of the Townshends on the other
+side of Fakenham has been shorn of its ancestral portraits. What a
+splendid collection, indeed, was this, and how far more dignified did
+the full-length Elizabethan warriors by Janssen look here than upon the
+walls at Christie's a year or so ago. The famous haunted chambers have a
+far less awe-inspiring appearance than some other of the bedrooms with
+their hearse-like beds and nodding plumes. We do not know when the
+"Brown Lady" last made her appearance, but there are rumours that she
+was visible before the decease of the late Marquis Townshend. Until then
+the stately lady in her rich brown brocade had absented herself for half
+a century. She had last introduced herself unbecoming a modest ghost, to
+two gentlemen visitors of a house party who were sitting up late at
+night. One of these gentlemen, a Colonel Loftus, afterwards made a
+sketch of her from memory which possibly is still in existence.
+
+[Illustration: WALSINGHAM.]
+
+[Illustration: WALSINGHAM.]
+
+Walsingham, midway between Fakenham and Wells, is a quaint old town; its
+timber houses and its combined Gothic well, lock-up, and cross in the
+market-place giving it quite a mediaeval aspect. Before the image of Our
+Lady of Walsingham was consigned to the flames by Wolsey's confidential
+servant Cromwell, the pilgrimages to the Priory were in every respect as
+great as those to Canterbury, and the "way" through Brandon and
+Newmarket may be traced like that in Kent. Notwithstanding the fact that
+Henry VIII. himself had been a barefoot pilgrim, and had bestowed a
+costly necklace on the image, his gift as well as a host of other riches
+from the shrine came in very handy at the Dissolution. A relic of Our
+Lady's milk enclosed in crystal, says Erasmus, was occasionally like
+chalk mixed with the white of eggs. It had been brought from
+Constantinople in the tenth century; but this and a huge bone of St
+Peter's finger, of course, did not survive. The site of the chapel,
+containing the altar where the pilgrims knelt, stood somewhere to the
+north-west of the ruins of the Priory. These are approached from the
+street through a fine old early fifteenth-century gateway. The
+picturesque remains of the refectory date from the previous century, the
+western window being a good example of the purest Gothic. The old
+pilgrims' entrance was in "Knight Street," which derives its name from
+the miracle of a horseman who had sought sanctuary passing through the
+extraordinarily narrow limits of the wicket. Henry III. is said to have
+set the fashion for walking to Walsingham, and we strongly recommend
+the tourists of to-day, who may find themselves stranded at
+Wells-next-the-Sea, to do likewise.
+
+[Illustration: FONT CANOPY, TRUNCH.]
+
+The little seaside resort Mundesley is an improvement on Wells; but dull
+as it is now, what must it have been in Cowper's time: surely a place
+ill-calculated to improve the poor poet's melancholia! There is little
+of interest beyond the ruined church on the cliffs and the Rookery Farm
+incorporated in the remains of the old monastery. A priest's hole is, or
+was not long since, to be seen in one of the gabled roofs. The churches
+of Trunch and Knapton to the south-west both are worth a visit for their
+fine timber roofs. The font at Trunch is enclosed by a remarkable canopy
+of oak supported by graceful wooden pillars from the floor. It is
+probably of early-Elizabethan date, and is certainly one of the most
+remarkable baptistries in the country. Here and in other parts of
+Norfolk when there are several babies to be christened the ceremony is
+usually performed on the girls last, as otherwise when they grew up they
+would develop beards!
+
+Ten miles to the south-west as the crow flies is historic Blickling, one
+of the reputed birthplaces of the ill-fated Anne Boleyn. By some
+accounts Luton Hoo in Bedfordshire claims her nativity as well as
+Rochford Hall in Essex and Hever Castle in Kent; but, though Hever is
+the only building that will go back to that date, she probably was born
+in the older Hall of Blickling, the present mansion dating only from the
+reign of James I.
+
+Upon the occasion of our visit the house was closed, so we can only
+speak of the exterior, and of the very extensive gardens, where in vain
+we sought the steward, who was said to be somewhere on the premises.
+
+The rampant bulls, bearing shields, perched on the solid piers that
+guard the drawbridge across the moat, duly impress one with the
+ancestral importance of the Hobarts, whose arms and quarterings,
+surmounted by the helmet and ancient crest, adorn the principal
+entrance. Like Hatfield and Bramshill, the mellowed red-brick gives it a
+charm of colour which only the lapse of centuries will give; and though
+not so old as Knole or Hatfield, the main entrance is quite as
+picturesque. The gardens, however, immediately surrounding the Hall look
+somewhat flat in comparison.
+
+Although Henry VIII. did the principal part of his courting at Hever, it
+was at Blickling that he claimed his bride, and by some accounts was
+married to her there and not at Calais. The old earl, the unfortunate
+queen's father, survived her only two years; and after his death the
+estate was purchased by Sir Henry Hobart,[11] who built the present
+noble house. Among the relics preserved at Blickling of the unhappy
+queen are her morning-gown and a set of night-caps, and her toilet case
+containing mirrors, combs, etc. Sir John the third baronet entertained
+Charles II. and his queen here in 1671, upon which occasion the host's
+son and heir, then aged thirteen, was knighted. The royal visit is duly
+recorded in the parish register as follows: "King Charles the Second,
+with Queene Katherine, and James, Duke of Yorke, accompanied with the
+Dukes of Monmouth, Richmond, and Buckingham, and with divers Lords,
+arrived and dined at Sir John Hubart's, at Blicklinge Hall, the King,
+Queene, Duke of Yorke, and Duchesse of Richmond, of Buckingham etc., in
+the great dining-roomes, the others in the great parloure beneath it,
+upon Michmasday 1671. From whence they went, the Queene to Norwich, the
+King to Oxneads and lodged there, and came through Blicklinge the next
+day about one of the clock, going to Rainham to the Lord Townsends."[12]
+
+Queen Catherine slept that night and the following in the Duke's Palace
+at Norwich, but joined her royal spouse at lunch at Oxnead, which fine
+Elizabethan house has, alas! been pulled down, and the statues and
+fountain from there are now at Blickling. "Next morne (being Saterday),"
+writes a local scribe in 1671, "her Maty parted so early from Norwich
+as to meet ye King againe at Oxnead ere noone; Sr Robt Paston haveing
+got a vast dinner so early ready, in regard that his Maty was to goe
+that same afternoone (as he did) twenty myles to supper to the Ld
+Townshend's, wher he stayd all yesterday, and as I suppose, is this
+evening already return'd to Newmarket, extremely well satisfied with our
+Lord Lieuts reception.... Her Maty haveinge but seven myles back to
+Norwich that night from Sr Robt Pastons was pleased for about two
+houres after dinner to divert herselfe at cards with the Court ladies
+and my Lady Paston, who had treated her so well and yet returned early
+to Norwich that eveninge to the same quarters as formerly; and on Sunday
+morne (after her devotions perform'd and a plentifull breakfast) shee
+tooke coach, extreamely satisfied with the dutifull observances of all
+this countie and city, and was conducted by the Ld Howard and his
+sonnes as far as Attleburough where fresh coaches atended to carry her
+back to the Rt Hoble the Ld Arlington's at Euston."[13]
+
+Sidelights of this royal progress are obtained from the diarist Evelyn
+and Lord Dartmouth. Among the attractions provided for the king's
+amusement at Euston was the future Duchess of Portsmouth. The Duchess of
+Richmond (La belle Stuart), in the queen's train, must have been
+reminded how difficult had been her position before she eloped with her
+husband four years previously. For the duke's sake let us hope he was as
+overcome as his Majesty when the latter let his tongue wag with more
+than usual freedom during the feast at Raynham. "After her marriage,"
+says Dartmouth, speaking of the duchess, "she had more complaisance than
+before, as King Charles could not forbear telling the Duke of Richmond,
+when he was drunk at Lord Townshend's in Norfolk." Evelyn did not think
+much of the queen's lodgings at Norwich, which he describes as "an old
+wretched building," partly rebuilt in brick, standing in the
+market-place, which in his opinion would have been better had it been
+demolished and erected somewhere else.
+
+Not far from Blickling to the north-east is Mannington Hall, a mansion
+built in the reign of Henry VI., which possesses one of the best
+authenticated ghost stories of modern times. The story is the more
+interesting as it is recorded by that learned and delightful chronicler
+Dr. Jessop, chaplain to His Majesty the King. The strange experiences of
+his visit in October 1879 are duly recorded in the _Athenaeeum_ of the
+following January. The rest of the household had retired to rest, and
+Dr. Jessop was sitting up making extracts from some rare books in an
+apartment adjoining the library. Absorbed in his study, time had slipped
+away and it was after one o'clock. "I was just beginning to think that
+my work was drawing to a close," says the doctor, "when, as I was
+actually writing, I saw a large white hand within a foot of my elbow.
+Turning my head, there sat a figure of a somewhat large man, with his
+back to the fire, bending slightly over the table, and apparently
+examining the pile of books that I had been at work upon. The man's face
+was turned away from me, but I saw his closely-cut, reddish brown hair,
+his ear and shaved cheek, the eyebrow, the corner of his right eye, the
+side of the forehead, and the large high cheekbone. He was dressed in
+what I can only describe as a kind of ecclesiastical habit of thick
+corded silk, or some such material, close up to the throat, and a narrow
+rim or edging of about an inch broad of satin or velvet serving as a
+stand-up collar and fitting close to the chin. The right hand, which had
+first attracted my attention, was clasping, without any great pressure,
+the left hand; both hands were in perfect repose, and the large blue
+veins of the right hand were conspicuous. I remember thinking that the
+hand was like the hand of Velasquez's magnificent 'Dead Knight' in the
+National Gallery. I looked at my visitor for some seconds, and was
+perfectly sure that he was a reality. A thousand thoughts came crowding
+upon me, but not the least feeling of alarm or even of uneasiness.
+Curiosity and a strong interest were uppermost. For an instant I felt
+eager to make a sketch of my friend, and I looked at a tray on my right
+for a pencil: then thought, 'Upstairs I have a sketch-book; shall I
+fetch it?' There he sat and I was fascinated, afraid not of his staying,
+but lest he should go. Stopping in my writing, I lifted my left hand
+from the paper, stretched it out to a pile of books and moved the top
+one. I cannot explain why I did this. My arm passed in front of the
+figure, and it vanished. Much astonished, I went on with my writing
+perhaps for another five minutes, and had actually got to the last few
+words of the extract when the figure appeared again, exactly in the same
+place and attitude as before. I saw the hand close to my own; I turned
+my head again to examine him more closely, and I was framing a sentence
+to address to him when I discovered that I did not dare to speak. I was
+afraid of the sound of my own voice! There he sat, and there sat I. I
+turned my head again to my work, and finished the two or three words
+still remaining to be written. The paper and my notes are at this moment
+before me, and exhibit not the slightest tremor or nervousness. I could
+point out the words I was writing when the phantom came, and when he
+disappeared. Having finished my task I shut the book and threw it on the
+table: it made a slight noise as it fell--the figure vanished." Not
+until now did the doctor feel nervous, but it was only for a second. He
+replaced the books in the adjoining room, blew out the candles on the
+table, and retired to his rooms marvelling at his calmness under such
+strange circumstances.
+
+[Illustration: WYMONDHAM.]
+
+The old-fashioned town Wymondham, to the south-west of Norwich, contains
+an interesting church and market-cross, and one or two fine Gothic
+houses, all in good preservation. But stay, the quaint octagonal
+Jacobean timber structure in the market-place was holding forth a
+petition for contributions, as it was feeling somewhat decrepit. This
+was six or seven years ago, so probably by now it has entered upon a new
+lease of life. How much more picturesque are these old timbered
+structures than the jubilee clock-towers which have sprung up in many
+old-fashioned towns, putting everything out of harmony. But few towns
+are proud of their old buildings. They must be up to date with flaring
+red-brick, and electric tramways, and down comes everything with any
+claim to antiquity, without a thought of its past associations or
+picturesque value. But let us hope that Wymondham may be exempt from
+these terrible tramways for many years to come, as its population is, or
+was, decreasing.
+
+The abbey and the church appear to have got rather mixed up; but having
+come to a satisfactory arrangement, present a most pleasing group, and,
+in the twilight, with two lofty towers and a ruined archway, it looks
+far more like a castle on the Rhine than a church in Norfolk. The effect
+doubtless would be heightened if we could see the rebel Kett dangling in
+chains from the tower as he did in the reign of Bloody Mary. The timber
+roof is exceptionally fine, with its long array of carved oak bosses and
+projecting angels.
+
+Near Wymondham is the moated Hall of Stanfield, picturesque with its
+numerous pinnacles. Here the heroine of the delightful romance
+_Kenilworth_ was born in 1532; but poor Amy's marriage, far from being
+secret, was celebrated with great pomp at Sheen in Surrey in 1550, and
+is recorded in the _Diary of Edward VI._ now in the British Museum.
+"Lydcote," the old house in North Devon where she lived for some
+years, was pulled down not many years ago. Her bedstead from there we
+believe is still preserved at Great Torrington Rectory.
+
+[Illustration: HAUTBOYS HALL.
+(_Photo by W. B. Redfern, Esq._)]
+
+Somewhat similar to Stanfield, though now only a farmhouse, is the very
+pretty old Tudor house Hautboys Hall. It stands a few miles to the
+south-east of Oxnead.
+
+Of all the moated mansions in Norfolk, Oxburgh Hall, near Stoke Ferry,
+is the most interesting, and is a splendid example of the fortified
+manor-house of the end of the fifteenth century, and it is one of the
+few houses in England that have always been occupied by one family. Sir
+Edmund Bedingfield built it in the reign of Richard III., and Sir
+Richard Bedingfield resides there at the present time. The octagonal
+towers which flank the entrance gate rise from the broad moat to a
+considerable height. There is a quaint projecting turret on the eastern
+side which adds considerably to the picturesque outline of stepped
+gables and quaint battlements. High above the ponderous oak gates the
+machicolation behind the arch that joins the towers shows ample
+provision for a liberal supply of molten lead, and in an old guard-room
+may be seen the ancient armour and weapons to which the retainers of the
+Hall were wont to have recourse in case of siege. The room recalls
+somehow the defence of the tower of Tillietudlem in _Old Mortality_, and
+one can picture the little household guard running the old culverins
+and sakers into position on the battlements.
+
+The great mullioned window beneath the Tudor arch and over the entrance
+gate belongs to the "King's room," a fine old tapestried chamber
+containing the bed, with green and gold hangings, where Henry VII.
+slept; and it is no difficult matter to repeople it in the imagination
+with the inhabitants of that time in their picturesque costumes. There
+is a richness in the colouring of the faded tapestry and hangings in
+contrast with the red-brick Tudor fireplace far more striking than if
+the restorer had been allowed a liberal hand. It is like a bit of
+Haddon, and such rooms are as rarely met with nowadays as unrestored
+churches. The remarkable hiding-place at Oxburgh we have described in
+detail elsewhere.[14] It is situated in the little projecting turret of
+the eastern tower, and is so cleverly constructed beneath the solid
+brick floor, that no one would believe until they saw the solid masonry
+move upwards that there was sufficient space beneath to conceal a man.
+The Bedingfields are an old Roman Catholic family, and it is usually in
+the mansions of those of that faith that these ingenious contrivances
+are to be seen.
+
+A priest's hole was discovered quite recently in Snowre Hall, a curious
+Tudor house some ten miles to the west of Oxburgh. It is entered through
+a shaft from the roof, and measures five feet by six feet and four feet
+high, and beneath it is an inner and smaller hiding-place. Mr. Pratt (in
+whose family the house has been for two centuries) when he made the
+discovery had to remove four barrow-loads of jackdaws' nests. The
+discovery of this secret room is an interesting sequel to the fact that
+on April 29, 1646, Charles I. slept at Snowre Hall. It will be
+remembered that before he delivered himself up to the Scots army, he
+spent some days wandering about the eastern counties in disguise, like
+his son did in the western counties five years later. The owner of the
+house in those days was a Mr. Ralph Skipwith, who, to put the spies that
+were lurking about the vicinity off the track, provided the king with
+his own grey riding-jacket in place of the clergyman's black coat he was
+wearing, for that disguise had been widely advertised by his enemies.
+Dr. Hudson, who was acting as scout, joined Charles and his companion,
+Mr. Ashburnham, at Downham Market, where the "King's Walk" by the town
+side, where they met, may still be seen. It is recorded by Dr. Stukeley
+that Charles scratched some motto or secret instructions to his friends
+on a pane of glass in the Swan Inn, where he put up awaiting Hudson's
+return from Southwell. The fugitives proceeded thence to the Cherry Inn
+at Mundford, some fourteen miles from Downham, and back to Crimplesham,
+where they halted at an inn to effect the disguise above referred to.
+The regicide Miles Corbet, who was on the track with Valentine Walton,
+gave information as follows:
+
+"Since our coming to Lyn we have done what service we were able. We have
+taken some examinations, and it doth appeare to us that Mr. Hudson, the
+parson that came from Oxford with the king, was at Downham in Norfolk
+with two other gentlemen upon Thursday the last of April. We cannot yet
+learn where they were Friday night; but Saturday morning, the 2 of May
+they came to a blind alehouse at Crimplesham, about 8 miles from Lyn.
+From thence Mr. Hudson did ride on Saturday to Downham again, and there
+two soldiers met with him, and had private speech with him. Hudson was
+then in a scarlet coat. Ther he met with Mr. Ralf Skipwith of his former
+acquaintance, and with him he did exchange his horse; and Skipwith and
+the said Hudson did ride to Southrie ferrie a privat way to go towards
+Ely; and went by the way to Crimplesham, and ther were the other
+two--one in a parsons habit, which by all description was the king.
+Hudson procured the said Skipwith to get a gray coat for the Dr. (as he
+called the king), which he did. And ther the king put off his black coat
+and long cassock, and put on Mr. Skipwith his gray coat. The king bought
+a new hat at Downham, and on Saturday went into the Isle of Ely.
+Wherever they came they were very private and always writing. Hudson
+tore some papers when they came out of the house. Hudson did enquire for
+a ship to go to the north or Newcastel, but could get none. We hear at
+the same time there were 6 soldiers and officers as is thought at
+Oxborough at another blind alehouse."[15]
+
+It is worthy of remark that Miles Corbet, whom Pepys saw on the morning
+of April 19, 1662, looking "very cheerful" upon his way to Tyburn, was a
+native of Norfolk, and his monument may be seen in Sprowston Church near
+Norwich.
+
+The "Swan" at Downham still exists, but it was modernised some fifteen
+years ago. It would be interesting to know what became of the historical
+pane of glass.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[11] The Miss Hobart who figures in de Gramont's _Memoirs_ was Sir
+John's sister, one of the first baronet's sixteen children.
+
+[12] There is an illustration of the room that Monmouth slept in at
+Raynham upon this occasion in _King Monmouth_.
+
+[13] _A Narrative of the Visit of His Majesty King Charles the Second to
+Norwich, 1671_ (1846).
+
+[14] See _Secret Chambers and Hiding-Places_.
+
+[15] See _Memoirs of the Martyr King_.
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS IN WARWICKSHIRE AND
+BORDERLAND
+
+
+The outline of Warwickshire is something in the form of a turnip, and
+the stem of it, which, like an isthmus, projects into Gloucestershire
+and Oxfordshire, contains many old-world places.
+
+Long Compton, the most southern village of all, is grey and straggling
+and picturesque, with orchards on all sides, and a fine old church, amid
+a group of thatched cottages, whose interior was restored or mangled at
+a period when these things were not done with much antiquarian taste. We
+have pleasant recollections of a sojourn at the "Old Red Lion," where
+mine host in 1880, a typical Warwickshire farmer, was the most
+hospitable and cheery to be found in this or any other county: an
+innkeeper of the old school that it did one's heart good to see.
+
+But this welcome house of call is by no means the only Lion of the
+neighbourhood, for on the ridge of the high land which forms the
+boundary of Oxfordshire are the "Whispering Knights," the "King's
+Stone," and a weird Druidical circle. These are the famous Rollright
+Stones, about which there is a story that a Danish prince came over to
+invade England, and when at Dover he consulted the oracle as to the
+chances of success. He was told that
+
+  "When Long Compton you shall see,
+  You shall King of England be."
+
+Naturally he and his soldiers made a bee-line for Long Compton, and,
+arriving at the spot where the circle is now marked by huge boulders, he
+was so elated that he stepped in advance of his followers, who stood
+round him, saying, "It is not meet that I should remain among my
+subjects, I will go before." But for his conceit some unkind spirit
+turned the whole party into stone, which doesn't seem quite fair.
+"King's Stone" stands conspicuous from the rest on the other side of the
+road, and, being very erect, looks as if the prince still prided himself
+upon his folly. The diameter of the circle is over a hundred feet. In an
+adjoining field is a cluster of five great stones. These are the
+"Whispering Knights"; and the secret among themselves is that they will
+not consent to budge an inch, and woe to the farmer who attempts to
+remove them. The story goes that one of the five was once carted off to
+make a bridge; but the offender had such a warm time of it that he
+speedily repented his folly and reinstated it.
+
+There is a delightful walk across the fields from Long Compton to Little
+Compton, with a glorious prospect of the Gloucestershire and
+Warwickshire hills. This village used to be in the former county, but
+now belongs to Warwickshire. Close to the quaint saddle-back towered
+church stands the gabled Elizabethan manor-house, with the Juxon arms
+carved over the entrance. Its exterior has been but little altered since
+the prelate lived here in retirement after the execution of Charles I. A
+gruesome relic was kept in one of the rooms, the block upon which the
+poor monarch's head was severed. This and King Charles' chair and some
+of the archbishop's treasured books disappeared from the manor-house
+after the death of his descendant Lady Fane. Internally the house has
+been much altered, but there are many nooks and corners to carry the
+memory back to the hunting bishop, for his pack of hounds was one of the
+best managed in the country. Upon one occasion a complaint was made to
+the Lord Protector that Juxon's hounds had followed the scent through
+Chipping Norton churchyard at the time of a puritanical assembly there.
+But Oliver would hear none of it, and only replied, "Let the bishop
+enjoy his hunting unmolested."
+
+[Illustration: CHASTLETON.]
+
+When Little Compton church had an Independent minister to hold forth to
+the congregation, the prelate held divine service every Sunday at
+Chastleton, the grand old home of the loyalist family of Jones. This
+stately Jacobean mansion is close to Little Compton, but is really in
+Oxfordshire. It has an old-world charm about it entirely its own; and
+few ancestral homes can take us back to the days of Cavalier and
+Roundhead with such realism, for the old furniture and pictures and
+relics have never been disturbed since the house was built by Walter
+Jones between the years 1603 and 1630. He purchased the estate from
+Robert Catesby, the projector of the Gunpowder Plot, who sold the manor
+to provide funds for carrying on that notorious conspiracy.
+
+The great hall is a noble apartment, with raised dais and carved screen;
+and the Royalist Joneses looking down upon you on all sides, conspicuous
+among whom is Thomas Jones and valiant Captain Arthur Jones, whose sword
+beside him shows the good service he did at Worcester fight. When the
+day was lost, and Charles was journeying towards Boscobel, the captain
+managed to ride his tired horse back to Chastleton. But a party of
+Cromwellian soldiers were at his heels, and his wife had only just time
+to hurry him into an ingeniously contrived hiding-place when the enemy
+confronted her, and refused to budge from the very bedroom behind whose
+panelled walls the fugitive was secreted. But Mrs. Arthur Jones had her
+share of tact, and in preparing her unwelcome guests some refreshment,
+she added a narcotic to the wine, which in time had effect. Her husband
+was then released, and with a fresh horse he was soon beyond danger. The
+little oak wainscoted chamber and the adjoining bedroom may still be
+seen where this exciting episode took place. The drawing-room is very
+rich in oak carvings, and the lofty marble chimney-piece bears in the
+centre the Jones' arms. The ceiling with its massive pendants is a fine
+example of the period.[16] The bedrooms are all hung with the original
+tapestry and arras that was made for them. One of them contains the
+State bed from old Woodstock Palace; and there are everywhere antique
+dressing-tables, mirrors, and quaint embroidered coverlets, and old
+chests and cabinets innumerable containing queer old dresses and coats
+of the Georgian period, and, what is more remarkable, the identical
+Jacobean ruffs and frills which are depicted in the old portraits in the
+hall. Then there are cupboards full of delightful old china, and
+decanters and wine glasses which were often produced to drink a health
+to the "King over the water." But of more direct historic interest is
+Charles I.'s Bible, which was given by the widow of the last baronet of
+the Juxon family--a grand-nephew of the archbishop--to the then
+proprietor of Chastleton, John Jones. It is bound in gold stamped
+leather, and bears the Royal arms with the initials C. R. It is dated
+1629, and is full of queer old maps and illustrations, and upon the
+fly-leaf is written--"Juxon, Compton, Gloucestershire."
+
+Some of the ancient cabinets at Chastleton are full of secret drawers,
+and in one of them some years ago a very curious miniature of the martyr
+king was discovered. It is painted on copper, and represents Charles I.
+with the Order of St. George, and a set of designs drawn on talc,
+illustrating the life of the ill-fated monarch from his coronation to
+his execution. They are thus described by one of the past owners of
+Chastleton: "They consist of a face and bust in one miniature, in a case
+accompanied with a set of eight or nine pictures drawn on talc, being
+different scenes or dresses, which are to be laid on the miniature so
+that the face of the miniature appears through a hole left for that
+purpose: and thus the one miniature does duty in every one of the talc
+pictures. These were accidentally discovered some twenty years ago.[17]
+The miniature was well known, and was supposed to be complete in itself;
+but one day whilst being handled by one of the family, then quite a
+child, it fell to the ground, and being in that way forced open at the
+back, those talc pictures were brought to light. The careful manner in
+which they had been concealed, and the miniature thereby made to appear
+no more than an ordinary portrait, seems to warrant the suggestion that
+they were in the first instance the property of some affectionate
+adherent of Charles, whose prudence persuaded him to conceal what his
+loyalty no doubt taught him to value very highly. There is no direct
+evidence to show that they belonged to Bishop Juxon; nor is there any
+tradition that I ever heard connected with them. The two concluding
+pictures of the series represent the decapitated head in the hand of the
+executioner, and a hand placing the martyr's crown upon the brows."
+
+There are two huge oak staircases running up to the top of the house,
+where is the old gallery or ballroom, with a coved ceiling of ornamented
+plaster-work, and above the mullioned windows grotesque monster heads
+devised in the pargeting.
+
+The grounds and gardens are quite in character: not made to harmonise,
+as are so many gardens nowadays, but the original quaint cut box hedges
+and trim walks. The grand old house in the centre with its rusty roof of
+lichen, and hard by the little church nestling by its side with the
+picturesque entrance gateway and dovecot, form together a delightful
+group. Chastleton church contains some good brasses. The tower is oddly
+placed over the south porch.
+
+A couple of miles to the north, and the same distance beyond, are two
+other interesting manor-houses, Barton-on-the-Heath and Little Woolford.
+The former, a gabled Jacobean house, was once the seat of the
+unfortunate Sir Thomas Overbury, who was done to death in the Tower by
+the machinations of that evil couple, Carr, Earl of Somerset, and his
+countess. Overbury, it will be remembered, had written the Court
+favourite's love letters and poems, and knew too much of that guilty
+courtship.
+
+There are some good monuments to the Overburys in the church: a Norman
+one with saddle-back tower. Near here is the Four-Shire Stone, described
+by Leland as "a large bigge stone; a Three-Mile-Stone from Rollerich
+Stones, which is a very mark or line of Gloucestershire, Whichester
+(Worcestershire), Warwickshire, and Oxfordshire."
+
+Little Woolford manor-house, the old seat of the Ingrams, is now, or was
+some years ago, used as a school. It is very picturesque, and its gables
+of half-timber, facing the little courtyard, remind one of the
+quadrangle of Ightham Mote. Opposite the Tudor entrance-gate is the
+hall, with its open timber roof, minstrels' gallery, panelled walls, and
+tall windows, still containing their ancient painted glass. Barton,
+which properly should have its ghost, presumably is not so favoured; but
+here there are two at least,--a certain "White Lady," who, fortunately
+for the juvenile scholars, does not appear until midnight; and the last
+of the Ingrams, who has a restless way of tearing about on horseback in
+the adjacent fields. This gentleman could not die decently in his bed,
+but must needs, upon the point of dying, rush into the stable, mount his
+favourite steed, and plunge into the raging tempest to meet his
+adversary Death. What a pity there are not more educational
+establishments like this. They might possibly make the pupils less
+matter-of-fact and more imaginative. But we had almost forgotten a
+moral lesson that is to be learned from a rude projection in the masonry
+on the left-hand side of the entrance gateway. This is the oven, which
+opens at the back of a wide hearth; and here some seventeenth-century
+I O U's are said to have been found for money lost at play; while some
+Cavaliers were concealed there in the time of the Civil Wars. But the
+punishment for gambling was providentially arranged. Some Cromwellian
+soldiers dropping in at the manor-house, lighted a tremendous fire, and
+gave the unfortunate fugitives a roasting which they did not readily
+forget. This is roughly as the story goes; indeed it goes further, for
+by local report King Charles himself was one of the victims.
+
+Brailes, a few miles to the north-east, is famous for its church, the
+cathedral of southern Warwickshire; but it is principally interesting
+exteriorly, the old benches having been long since cleared away and many
+nineteenth-century "improvements" made. Still there are parts of the
+fourteenth-century roof and a fine font, some ancient monuments,
+particularly melodious old bells; and the lofty embattled
+fifteenth-century tower is exceptionally graceful.
+
+Buried in a hollow, and hidden from view by encircling trees and hills,
+is that wonderful old mansion Compton Wyniates. The name (derived from
+the ancient family of Compton and Wyniates, a corruption of vineyard,
+for at an early period the vine was here cultivated) is suggestive of
+something quaint, and indeed a more curious old house could not be
+found. Its innumerable gables and twisted chimneys seem to be heaped up
+in the most delightful confusion, in abandoned opposition to any
+architectural regularity. The eye wanders from tower and turret until it
+becomes bewildered by so many twists and angles. Look at the square box
+of a house like Moor Park, for example, and wonder how it is that having
+arrived at such picturesque perfection, taste should so degenerate. But
+half the fascination of Compton Wyniates is its colour; its time-worn
+dark-red brick and the grey-green lichens of ancient roofs. Upon one
+side the curious gables and countless chimney clusters are reflected in
+the moat, part of which now does service as a sunken garden.
+
+Passing through the bullet-battered door of the main entrance, over
+which are the Royal arms of England supported by a griffin and a dog, we
+enter a quadrangular court and thence pass into the great hall, with its
+open timber roof black with the smoke of centuries. The screen beneath
+the music gallery is elaborately carved with leaf tracery, grotesque
+figures of mounted knights, and the escutcheon of the Compton arms.
+Above the gallery we notice the huge oak beams which form the
+half-timber portion of one of the principal gables, and cannot help
+comparing these tremendous oak trunks with the modern laths plastered in
+front of houses: a futile attempt to imitate this popular style, without
+aiming at its _object_--strength.
+
+The screen of the chapel, like that of the hall, is ornamented with
+grotesque carvings, including a battle royal between some monks and his
+Satanic Majesty, who by the way has one of the ninety rooms all to
+himself, and reached by a special spiral staircase. Near the "Devil's
+chamber" is another small room whose ghostly occupant is evidently a
+member of the fresh-air league, for he will persist in having the window
+open, and no matter how often it is closed it is always found to be
+open. What a pity this sanitary ghost does not take up his abode where
+oxygen is scarcer. But these are by no means the only mysterious rooms
+at Compton Wyniates, for not a few have secret entrances and exits, and
+one dark corridor is provided with a movable floor, which when removed,
+drawbridge fashion, makes an excellent provision for safety so long as
+you are on the right side of the chasm. Such ingenious arrangements were
+as necessary in a private residence, miles from anywhere, as the
+bathroom is in a suburban villa. There are secret "barracks" in the
+roof, with storage for a regiment of soldiers, if necessary. The popish
+chapel, too, has ample provision for the security of its priest. There
+are four staircases leading up to it, and a regular rabbit-warren
+between the beams of the roof and the wainscoting, where if needs be he
+could run in case of danger.
+
+"Henry VIII.'s room," and "Charles I.'s room," are both pointed out.
+The latter slept a night here prior to the battle of Edgehill, and the
+bluff king honoured the builder of the mansion, Sir William Compton,
+with a visit in memory of old days, when his host as a boy had been his
+page. Dugdale tells us that Sir William got his building material from
+the ruinous castle of Fulbrooke, so his bricks were mellowed with time
+when the house was first erected. The knight's grandson became Baron
+Compton in Elizabeth's reign, and his son William, Earl of Northampton
+in 1618. A romantic episode in the life of this nobleman was his
+elopement with Elizabeth Spencer of Canonbury Tower, Islington. The lady
+was a very desirable match, being the only daughter of Sir John Spencer,
+the richest heiress of her time. Notwithstanding her strict seclusion at
+Canonbury, Lord William Compton, of whom she was enamoured, succeeded in
+the absence of her father in gaining admission to the house in the
+disguise of a baker, and carried her off in his basket. To perform so
+muscular a feat was proof enough of his devotion, so at the end of a
+year all was forgotten and forgiven. Their son, the valiant second earl,
+Spencer Compton, won his spurs and lost his life fighting for the king
+at Hopton Heath. His portrait by Janssen may be seen at Castle Ashby.
+
+His son James, the third earl, also fought for Charles, and attended his
+son at the Restoration; but his younger brother Henry, Bishop of London,
+aided the Revolution, and crowned Dutch William and his queen.
+
+Only within the last half-century has the mansion been occupied as a
+residence. For nearly a century before it was neglected and deserted.
+The rooms were bare of furniture, for, alas! its contents, including
+Henry VIII.'s State bed, had been removed or sold. That delightful
+writer William Howitt in 1840 said the house had not been inhabited for
+ninety years, with the exception of a portion of the east front, which
+was used by the bailiff. The rooms were empty and the walls were naked.
+His concluding wish fortunately long since has been realised--namely,
+that its noble owner would yet cause the restoration and refitting of
+Compton Wyniates to all its ancient state.
+
+Warwickshire is rich in ancestral houses and mediaeval castles. Take, for
+example, the fortresses of Kenilworth, Warwick, Maxstoke, and Tamworth,
+or the fine old houses Coombe Abbey, Charlecote, and Baddesley Clinton.
+The last named perhaps is least known of these, but by no means the
+least interesting. This old moated Hall of the Ferrers family is buried
+in the thickly wooded country on the high tableland which occupies the
+very heart of England. As to the actual centre, there are two places
+which claim this distinction; but oddly enough they are quite twelve
+miles apart. The one between Leamington and Warwick, the other to the
+west of Coventry. The latter spot is marked by the village cross of
+Meriden, and the former by an old oak tree by the main road. Baddesley
+Clinton is nearly equidistant from both, south of Meriden and north-west
+of Leamington and Warwick.
+
+Few houses so thoroughly retain their ancient appearance as Baddesley.
+It dates from the latter part of the fifteenth century, and is a
+singularly well-preserved specimen of a moated and fortified manor-house
+of that period. Like Compton Wyniates, its situation is very secluded in
+its densely wooded park, and formerly there was a double moat for extra
+defence; but for all its retiredness and security, the old house has a
+kindly greeting for those who are interested in such monuments of the
+past. A stone bridge across the moat leads to a projecting embattled
+tower with a wide depressed archway, showing provision for a portcullis
+with a large mullioned window over it. In general appearance the front
+resembles the moated house of Ightham, with which it is coeval, and the
+half-timbered gables of the courtyard are somewhat similar. Unlike
+Charlecote, the interior is as untouched as the exterior. Everywhere
+there are quaint old "linen" panelled rooms and richly carved
+chimney-pieces--windows of ancient heraldic glass, and old furniture,
+tapestry, and paintings. The hall is not like some, that never look cosy
+unless there is a blazing log fire in the hearth. There is something
+particularly inviting in this old room, with its deep-recessed mullioned
+window by the great freestone Jacobean fireplace. What pictures could
+not the imagination conjure up in this cosy corner in the twilight of an
+autumn day! On the first floor over the entrance archway is the
+"banqueting-room," with high coved ceiling and tapestry-lined walls.
+Beyond this is "Lord Charles' room," haunted, it is said, by a handsome
+youth with raven hair. Many years ago this spectre was seen by two of
+the late Mr. Marmion Ferrers' aunts when they were children, and they
+long remembered his face and steadfast gaze. A mysterious lady dressed
+in rich black brocade is occasionally encountered in the corridors in
+broad daylight, like the famous "Brown Lady" of Raynham Hall.
+
+The ancient chapel was set up by Sir Edward Ferrers when the little
+parish church was taken from the family at the Reformation. In the
+thickness of the wall close at hand there is a secret passage which
+leads down to a little water-gate by the moat beneath which a narrow
+passage runs, so that there were two ready means of escape in troublous
+times; and in the roof on the east side of the house there is a priest's
+hole provided with a fixed bench. Marmion Ferrers above alluded to, who
+died in 1884, was the eighth in descent from father to son from Henry
+Ferrers of Elizabeth's time. Both were learned antiquarians. Marmion
+Ferrers was a typical squire of the old school, and we well remember
+with what pride he showed us round his ancestral home. But his pride
+ended there, as is shown by the following anecdote. One day he
+encountered an old woman in the park who had been gathering sticks
+without permission. She dropped her heavy bundle and was about to offer
+apologies for trespassing, when the good old squire, seeing that her
+load was too much for her strength, without a word slung the burden on
+his shoulder and carried it to the woman's humble dwelling.
+
+This calls to mind a story of a contemporary squire who lived some fifty
+miles away in the adjoining county, an antiquary who was also known for
+his acts of kindness and hospitality. In the vicinity of his ancient
+Hall a tramp had found a job, and the baronet was anxious to test his
+butler's honesty. He therefore offered to lend the man a hand and help
+him carry some bundles of faggots into an adjacent yard, if he would
+share profits. This was agreed upon, and when the work was done the
+tramp went off to the Hall to ask for his money, promising to join his
+assistant in a lane at the back of the house. Meanwhile the squire
+hurried to his study, and when the butler made his appearance handed him
+five shillings. Then donning his shabby coat and hat he hastened back.
+Presently the tramp came up with beaming countenance and held out half a
+crown, saying they were both well rewarded with one and threepence each.
+But the assistant grumbled, and said it was miserable pay, and at length
+persuaded the man to return and ask to see the squire and explain the
+amount of work that had been done. Again he returned to his sanctum, and
+hearing the bell ring told the butler to admit the man, and he would
+hear what he had to say. Having enjoyed the fun--the tramp's surprise
+and the butler's discomfort, he dismissed them both--one with half a
+guinea, the other from his service.
+
+Baddesley Clinton church, shut in by tall trees a bow-shot from the
+Hall, is famous for its eastern window of heraldic glass, which shows
+the various noble families with whom the Ferrers intermarried. By the
+union of Marmion Ferrers' father with the Lady Harriet Anne, daughter of
+the second Marquis Townshend, the Chartley and Tamworth lines of the
+family were united with that of Baddesley. The altar tomb of Sir Edward
+Ferrers, Knight, the founder of the family at Baddesley, his wife Dame
+Constance, and son who predeceased him, has above shields of the
+alliances with the Bromes, Hampdens, etc. He was the son of Sir Henry
+Ferrers, Knight, of Tamworth Castle, and grandson of William, Lord
+Ferrers of Groby. Marmion was the thirteenth in descent from this Sir
+Edward, not many links between the fifteenth and end of the nineteenth
+century. The day of the good old squire's burial on August 25, 1884,
+fell upon the three hundred and forty-ninth anniversary of the death of
+the first Ferrers of Baddesley.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[16] There is an engraving of this room in Nash's _Mansions_.
+
+[17] The description was written more than twenty years ago.
+
+
+
+
+SOME NOOKS IN WORCESTERSHIRE
+AND GLOUCESTERSHIRE
+
+
+[Illustration: THE WHITE HOUSE, PIXHAM.]
+
+Not far from Powick Bridge, where after two hours' hard fighting the
+Royalists were defeated by General Fleetwood, stands a quaint old house
+of timber and plaster, with nine gables facing three sides of the
+compass, and a high three-gabled oaken porch in front. It is called
+Priors Court, or the White House of Pixham, and since "the battle of
+Powick Bridge" it has been occupied by the same family, though the name
+by inter-marriage has changed from time to time. A branch of the Lanes
+of Bentley were the representatives in the seventeenth century, and
+according to tradition the famous Jane Lane lived here for a time.
+Though the house belongs to the Tudor period, many alterations were made
+early in the eighteenth century, but the little interior quadrangle
+remains much in its original condition. One expects to find within, the
+usual comfortable chimney corners and cosy panelled rooms, and perhaps
+some ancient furniture; but it comes as a surprise to find a museum of
+relics and heirlooms taking us back to the days of the Tudors and
+Stuarts.
+
+From the hall, we pass up the great oak staircase to bedrooms and
+corridors containing chests and cabinets full of ancient deeds and
+manuscripts, not the least remarkable of which is a parchment roll upon
+which is painted a series of mysterious astrological and other pictures,
+supposed once upon a time to have been the property of the necromancer
+Dr. John Dee, who lived for some time in the neighbouring town of
+Upton-on-Severn. If this is really a document of Dr. Dee's, one would
+like to see it preserved with the famous crystal in the British Museum.
+The old presses and cupboards are full of the richly embroidered
+bed-hangings and homespun sheets wrought by the ladies of the house in
+the days when their energies were devoted to domestic purposes, and the
+idea of hockey or ladies' clubs would have made their hair to stand
+erect. There are piles of arras carefully packed away when wall-paper
+came in fashion. There are chairs and tables dating back three centuries
+or more, and mirrors which have reflected fair faces patched, with
+head-gear piled up mountain high.
+
+In a corner stands a spinning-wheel, distaff, and reel complete, as if
+some dainty damsel at work had fled at the approach of footsteps; and
+there beyond is a dusty pillion which conjures up a picture of Mistress
+Lane seated behind "Will Jackson" upon their way to Bristol. The ancient
+glass and china, too, would whet the appetite of the most exacting
+connoisseur. But we must not linger longer, or we shall envy these
+choice possessions.
+
+[Illustration: PIRTON COURT.]
+
+[Illustration: SEVERN END.]
+
+[Illustration: SEVERN END.]
+
+Pirton Court, not far away, has not been plastered over like many houses
+with elaborate wooden "magpie" work beneath, and the ornamental timber
+in circular design is unimpaired. But the quaintest timber gables were
+those at Severn End, the ancient seat of the Lechmeres, some five miles
+to the south-west. Alas! that this ancient mansion should have been
+destroyed by fire,--a loss as great as that of Clevedon or Ingestre,
+greater, perhaps, as its architecture was so quaint: a delightful
+mixture of the Tudor and Stuart periods to which it was no easy matter
+to fix a date, for the timber portions looked much older than the
+seventeenth century, when they were built by Sir Nicholas Lechmere, a
+nephew of Sir Thomas Overbury, a worthy and learned judge whose
+manuscripts give a very realistic peep into the domestic life of the
+times and the orderly way in which his establishment was conducted. Both
+front and back of the house were strikingly picturesque, but the front
+was the most curious, half black and white angular gables and half
+curved and rounded red-brick Jacobean gables. On either side of the
+entrance porch were two great chimney-stacks, and in the corners where
+the wings abutted, small square towers, one of which was sharpened to a
+point like a lead pencil. At the back, facing smooth lawns (where the
+judge used to sit and study), attached to the main building was what
+looked like a distinct structure, the sort of overhanging half-timbered
+house with carved barge-boards, pendants, and hip-knobs that are
+familiar objects at Shrewsbury or Tewkesbury. The lower part of this was
+of red-brick, and beside it on the right was a smaller abutting
+half-timber gable. The great oak staircases had fantastic newels and
+balusters, and around the panelled hall was a fixed oak settle, and
+armour on the walls: carved oak cabinets and chairs, and tables. The
+room in which Charles I. slept was pointed out, and that of
+Major-General Massey, for Severn End was that great soldier's
+headquarters before the battle of Worcester.
+
+A few miles to the south-west, within the boundary of the once wild
+district, Malvern Chase, is another remarkable old house, Birtsmorton
+Court, a moated and fortified manor-house in a singularly good state of
+preservation. Though quiet and peaceful enough, its embattled gateway
+has a formidable look, showing the teeth of its portcullis, like a
+bull-dog on the alert for intruders. The drawbridge is also there, and
+walls of immense thickness, both speaking of the insecurity of the days
+when it was built. The "parlour," with windows looking out upon the
+moat, is richly panelled with the various quarterings of the ancient
+lords, the Nanfans, executed in colours around the cornice. The arms and
+crest also occur upon the elaborately carved oak fireplace. On the
+left-hand side of this fireplace there was formerly the entrance to a
+hiding-place concealed in the wainscoting, but there is nothing now but
+a very visible cupboard which leads nowhere. Tradition asserts that
+Henry V.'s old associate, Sir John Oldcastle, sought refuge here before
+he was captured and burned as a Lollard. But as that happened in 1417,
+the date does not tally with the period to which the room belongs,
+namely, a century later. But the original apartments have been divided
+(some are dilapidated chambers, now used as a storeroom for Gloucester
+cheeses), so that it is difficult to trace how they were placed. There
+is also a story of a passage running beneath the moat into the adjacent
+woods; but whether Sir John got so far, or whether after his escape from
+the Tower he even got farther than his own castle of Cowling in Kent,
+when he was hunted down by orders of his former boon companions, we
+cannot say. By local report Edward IV. and Margaret of Anjou as well as
+the little Lancastrian Prince of Wales sought shelter at Birtsmorton.
+But for Margaret another house nearer Tewkesbury claims the honour of
+offering a refuge from the battlefield. This is an old timber-framed
+building with carved barge-boards, near the village of Bushley, called
+Payne's Place, or Yew Tree Farm, which once belonged to Thomas Payne and
+Ursula his wife, whose brasses may be seen in the church. In the eastern
+wing of this old house Queen Margaret's bedroom is pointed out. The hall
+with open timber roof is still intact but divided, and upon the oak
+beams a century after the battle of Tewkesbury the following lines were
+painted on a frieze:
+
+  "To lyve as wee shoulde alwayes dye it were a goodly trade,
+  To change lowe Death for Lyfe so hye, no better change is made;
+  For all our worldly thynges are vayne, in them is there no truste,
+  Wee see all states awhyle remayne, and then they turn to duste."
+
+Had the lines existed then, would the poor queen have derived comfort
+when the news reached her of her son's death on the battlefield?
+
+Birtsmorton is associated with the early career of Cardinal Wolsey, for
+here he acted as chaplain during the retirement of Sir Richard Nanfan
+from service to the State. Through Sir Richard's Court influence Wolsey
+was promoted to the service of Henry VIII.
+
+The "Bloody Meadow" near Birtsmorton must not be confused with that near
+Tewkesbury, the scene of the last battle between the Houses of York and
+Lancaster. This one was the scene of a single combat between a Nanfan
+and his sister's lover, in which the latter was slain. The heart-broken
+lady left a sum of money that a sermon should be annually preached at
+Berrow church (the burial-place of the Nanfans) against duelling; and
+this we believe is done to this day. The cruciform church has been
+painfully restored, but contains a fine altar-tomb to Sir John, Sir
+Richard Nanfan's grandfather, Squire of the Body to King Henry VI.; but
+beyond a leper's window and a queer old alms-box there is nothing else
+remarkable.
+
+[Illustration: RIPPLE.]
+
+Two of the prettiest villages hereabouts are Ripple and Strensham, the
+former on the Severn, the latter on the Avon. At Ripple, in a cosy
+corner backed by creeper-grown timber cottages, is the lofty stone shaft
+of the cross, and by the steps at the base the stocks and whipping-post.
+Strensham is famous as the birthplace of the witty author of _Hudibras_.
+It is a peaceful little place, with a few thatched cottages, a fine old
+church near the winding river, embosomed in trees. The church is
+remarkable for its fine rood-loft with painted panels of saints, which
+at some time has been made into a gallery at the west end, and we hope
+may be replaced one of these days.
+
+Following the river Avon to Evesham and Stratford-on-Avon, there are
+many charming old-world villages rich in timber and thatched cottages.
+Such a village is Offenham above Evesham. The village street leads
+nowhere, and at the end of it stands a tapering Maypole, as much as to
+say, "Go on with your modern improvement elsewhere if you like, but here
+I intend to stay"; and we believe it is duly decorated and danced around
+in the proper fashion, though the inhabitants by the "new style" of the
+calendar can scarcely dispense with overcoats. We will not follow the
+course of the river so far as "drunken Bidford" (where the immortal bard
+and some convivial friends are said to have been overcome by the effects
+of the strong ale at the "Falcon"), but turn our steps southwards to
+Broadway, which of recent years has had an invasion from America. But
+the great broad street of substantial Tudor and Jacobean houses deserves
+all the praise that has been lavished upon it. We were there before it
+had particularly attracted Jonathan's eye, and after a fortnight's fare
+of bread and cheese and eggs and bacon (the usual fare of a walking
+tour), we alighted upon a princely pigeon pie at the "Lygon Arms." Under
+such circumstances one naturally grows enthusiastic; but even if the
+fine old hostelry had offered as cold a reception as that at Stilton, we
+could not but help feeling kindly disposed towards so stately a roadside
+inn. Like the "Bell" at Stilton, it is stone-built, with mullioned
+windows and pointed gables; but here there is a fine carved doorway,
+which gives it an air of grandeur. There are roomy corridors within,
+leading by stout oak doors to roomier apartments, some oak panelled, and
+others with moulded ceilings and carved stone fireplaces. One of these
+is known as "Cromwell's room," and one ought to be called "Charles'
+room" also, for during the Civil Wars the martyr king slept there on
+more than one occasion. The wide oak staircase with its deep set window
+on the first landing, reminds one of the staircase leading out of the
+great hall of Haddon. There is a little wicket gate to keep the dogs
+below. Farther up the village street stands Tudor House, which with its
+ball-surmounted gable ends and bay-window with heraldic shields above,
+bears a cloak-and-rapier look about it; but it was built, according to
+the date upon it, when the old Cavalier was poor and soured, and had
+sheathed his sword, but nevertheless was counting the months when the
+king should come to his own again. The house was empty, and presumably
+had been shut up for years. Referring to some notes, we find the
+following memoranda by the friend who was with us upon the occasion of
+our visit. "We could obtain no information as to the ownership, or still
+more important, the holder of the keys. One old man, who might have
+remembered it being built but was slightly hazy on the subject, said no
+one ever went inside. Other inquiries in the village led only to intense
+astonishment at our desire. And the whole concluded in a large
+contingent of the inhabitants standing speechless, marvelling before the
+house itself; in which position we left them and it."
+
+The old church of Edward IV.'s time is now, or was, deserted in favour
+of an early-Victorian one much out of keeping with the village, or
+rather town that it once was.
+
+Another decayed town, once of more importance still, is Chipping
+Campden, four miles to the north-east of Broadway, in a corner of
+Gloucestershire. Here again we have the great wide street with a
+profusion of grey stone gables on either side, and projecting inn signs,
+and sundials in profusion. At one extremity a noble elm tree and at the
+other a huge chestnut, stand like sentinels over the ancient buildings
+that they may not share the fate of the neighbouring manor-house, which
+was burned down by its loyal owner, the third Viscount Campden, during
+the Civil War, to save it from the ignoble fate of being seized and
+garrisoned for the Parliamentarians. From the imposing entrance gate and
+two remaining curious pavilions at either end of a long terrace, one may
+judge it must have been a fine early-Jacobean mansion. Strange that
+Campden House, their ancient town residence, should have perished in the
+flames also, but over two centuries afterwards. Near the entrance gate
+are the almshouses, a very picturesque line of pointed gables and lofty
+chimneys. Above them rises the graceful early-Perpendicular church
+tower, which in design and proportions is worthy of a cathedral. But the
+quaint Jacobean pillared market-house, the Court-house with its handsome
+panelled buttresses, and a house of the time of Richard III. with
+two-storied bay-window, and an ancient hall, are among the most
+interesting buildings in the town. One of the many sign-boards displays
+a poetic effusion by a Campden chimney-sweep, a modernised version of
+the original which ran as follows:
+
+  "John Hunter Campden doe live here,
+  Sweeps chimbleys clean and not too deare.
+  And if your chimbley be a-fire,
+  He'll put it out if you desire."
+
+The "Red Lion" is a typical hostelry of the Stuart days, and a
+contemporary house opposite, bearing the date 1656, is well worth
+notice: the "Green Dragon" also, dated 1690.
+
+The interior of the church is disappointing; its new benches, windows,
+roof, and chancel giving it a modern look; but there are some fine old
+monuments to the ancient lords of the manor, especially that of the
+first Viscount Campden and his countess, and there are some fine
+fifteenth-century brasses in the chancel.
+
+[Illustration: STANTON.]
+
+Norton House, to the north of the town, near Dover Hill (famous for the
+Cotswold games in "the good old days"), is a picturesque, many-gabled
+house; and at Mickleton, to the north-east, there are some curious old
+buildings. Farther north are the remains of Long Marston manor-house,
+still containing the roasting-jack which Charles II. as pseudo
+scullery-man omitted to wind up, and brought the wrath of the cook upon
+his head, much as King Arthur did when he burnt the cakes. But our way
+lies southwards through Broadway to Buckland, Stanton, and a place that
+should be sylvan according to its name--Stanway-in-the-Woods. Buckland
+church and rectory are both of interest. The former has a fine
+Perpendicular tower with some grotesque gargoyle demons at the corners.
+The benches are good, and a window dated 1585 retains some ancient
+painted glass, as the roof does its old colouring, in which the Yorkist
+rose is conspicuous. The hall of the rectory has a fine open-timber roof
+with central arch richly carved, and upon a window is depicted a rebus
+representing one William Grafton, rector of Buckland from 1450 to 1506.
+The manor-house also once possessed a hall with lofty timber-framed roof
+and huge fireplace of the fourteenth century; but, sad to relate, it was
+destroyed when the house was modernised some years ago, but there still
+remains a pretty old staircase of a later date.
+
+Farther south the country becomes more wooded and hilly. The high ground
+rises on the left above Stanton, and at the foot of the hill near the
+village nestle the pretty old church and gabled manor-house, with its
+complement of old farm buildings adjacent. The village street, like
+Broadway, consists of rows of grey stone gables, at the end of which
+stands the sundial-surmounted cross. The interior of the church has not
+been spoiled; the carved oak canopied pulpit towering above the ancient
+pews is quite in keeping with the old-world village. The Stanways are
+about two miles to the south, but there are so few houses that one
+wonders where the children come from to attend the village school. Wood
+Stanway is not disappointing like many places possessing picturesque
+names that we could quote, for it is enveloped in trees, and so is
+Church Stanway for that matter.
+
+[Illustration: STANWAY HOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: STANWAY HOUSE.]
+
+Turning a corner of the road one comes suddenly upon a wonderful old
+gateway with fantastic gables and a noble Jacobean doorway. On one side
+of it is a high garden wall with great circular holes in it, and over
+the wall peep the gables and ornamental perforated parapet of a fine
+mansion of Charles I.'s time. This is always a most fascinating picture;
+but to see it at its best is when the roses are in bloom, for above the
+old wall and through the rounded apertures, the queen of flowers
+flourishes in gay festoons as if rejoicing at its surroundings. But if
+one is so fortunate as to obtain admission to the gardens then may he or
+she rejoice also, for upon the other side of that grey old wall are the
+prettiest of gardens and the grandest trees, one of which, an ancient
+yew, is no less than twenty-two feet in girth. There are terraces, stone
+summer-houses, and nooks and corners such as one only sees in the
+grounds of our ancestral homes. Within, the mansion has been much
+restored and somewhat modernised, but the great hall and other rooms
+take one back to the time of Inigo Jones, who designed the entrance
+gateway. In the churchyard close by is buried the most popular local man
+of his time, Robert Dover. If he lived in our day he surely would be the
+president of the "Anti-Puritanical League," for he it was who made a
+successful crusade against the spirit of religious austerity, the
+tendency of which was to put down holidays of sport and merry-making. As
+a result of his efforts, the hills above Chipping Camden were annually
+at Whitsuntide the scene of a revival of the mediaeval days of festivity
+and manly exercise. Upon these occasions the originator acted as master
+of the ceremonies, and was duly respected, for he always wore a suit of
+King James' own clothes. Dover died at the beginning of the Civil War,
+so, fortunately for him, he did not live through the rigid rule of
+Cromwell. The Cotswold games, however, were revived at the Restoration.
+To this public benefactor (the shadow of whose cloak has surely fallen
+on the shoulders of Lord Avebury) Drayton wrote in eulogy:
+
+  "We'll have thy statue in some rock cut out
+  With brave inscriptions garnished about,
+  And under written, 'Lo! this is the man
+  Dover, that first these noble sports began.'
+  Lads of the hills and lasses of the vale
+  In many a song and many a merry tale
+  Shall mention thee; and having leave to play,
+  Unto thy name shall make a holiday."
+
+Yet nobody did set up his statue, as should have been done on "Dover
+Hill" by Chipping Camden.
+
+Some odd cures for certain ailments are prescribed in remote parts of
+the Cotswolds. Garden snails, for instance, which in Wiltshire are sold
+for ordinary consumption, namely, food, as "wall fruit," are used here
+externally as a remedy for ague: and roasted mouse is a specific for the
+whooping-cough. But for the latter complaint as efficacious a result may
+be obtained by the pleasanter mode of riding on a donkey's back nine
+times round a finger-post. This remedy, however, properly belongs to
+Worcestershire.
+
+If we continue in a south-westerly direction we shall pass historic
+Sudeley, near Winchcombe, Postlip Hall, and Southam House. Sudeley
+Castle must have been magnificent before it was dismantled in the Civil
+War. Bravely it stood two sieges, but at length capitulated; and being
+left a ruin by Cromwell's soldiers, the magnificent fifteenth-century
+mansion was left for close upon two centuries to act as a quarry for the
+neighbourhood. Under such disadvantages was its restoration commenced,
+and it is wonderful what has been done; yet there has been a certain
+admixture of Edwardian and Elizabethan portions which is somewhat
+confusing. The banqueting room, with its noble oriel windows (originally
+glazed with beryl), the keep with its dungeons, and the kitchen with its
+huge fireplace four yards across, speak of days of lordly greatness, and
+the names of many weighty nobles as well as kings and queens are closely
+associated with the castle. Richard, Duke of Gloucester, was once
+possessed of it; the youngest son of Owen Tudor and Henry V.'s widow
+lived there; so did Sir Thomas Seymour, Edward VI.'s uncle, who married
+and buried there Henry VIII.'s last queen, at which ceremony Lady Jane
+Grey was chief mourner. Elizabeth was here upon one of her progresses,
+and Charles I. was the last sovereign who slept there. The restored
+rooms are full of historical furniture, pictures, and relics. Here may
+be seen Amy Robsart's bed, or one of them, from Cumnor Hall: and the bed
+upon which the martyr king slept, not here but at Kineton, before
+Edgehill. There are numerous relics of the queen, who had the tact to
+outlive her august spouse, and the foolishness to marry a fourth
+husband. Catherine Parr's various books and literary compositions may
+here be studied, including the letter in which she accepted Seymour's
+offer of marriage. He was by no means the best of husbands, but a vast
+improvement on the royal tyrant who had coldly planned the queen's
+destruction; but owing to her ready wit his wrath was turned upon
+Wriothesley, who was to have arrested her; for when he came to perform
+that office, Henry called him an "an errant knave and a beast." There
+are lockets containing locks of her auburn hair, and portions of the
+dress she wore. But the main interest is centred in the chapel where the
+queen was buried. This building was dismantled with the rest in 1649,
+and the fine Chandos monuments destroyed. Catherine's tomb, which was
+within the altar rails, probably shared the fate of the rest, and its
+position was soon forgotten. However, after the lapse of nearly a
+century and a half, a plain slab of alabaster in the north wall,
+doubtless part of the original monument, led to the discovery of a
+leaden case in the shape of a human form lying immediately below, only a
+foot or so beneath the surface of the ground. Upon the breast was the
+following inscription:
+
+  K. P.
+  Here lyethe QUENE
+  KATERYN wife to KYNG
+  HENRY THE VIII., and
+  Last the wife of Thomas
+  Lord of Sudeley, highe
+  Admiyrall of England
+  And vncle to Kyng
+  Edward the VI.
+  dyed
+  5 September
+  MCCCCC
+  XLVIII.
+
+The cerecloth, hard with wax and gums, was removed from a portion of the
+arm, which was discovered after close upon three centuries to be still
+white and soft. According to another account, when the covering of the
+face was removed, not only the features, but the eyes were in perfect
+preservation. The body was reinterred, but treated with no decent
+respect, for the spot was occupied as an enclosure for rabbits; and upon
+one occasion it was dug up by some drunken men, who by local tradition,
+as a reward for their desecration, all came to an untimely end. The
+alabaster block may still be seen in the north wall of the chapel, but
+the body now lies beneath a recumbent figure in white marble which has
+been placed to the queen's memory.
+
+[Illustration: POSTLIP HALL.]
+
+Postlip Hall stands high in a picturesque spot not far from the main
+road to Cheltenham. It is a many-gabled Elizabethan house, preserving
+its original character, but spoiled by the insertion of plate-glass
+windows. Within there is one particularly fine room of elaborate oak
+carvings (and the arms of the Broadways who built the house) of
+sufficient importance to form the subject of one of the plates in Nash's
+_Mansions_. The house has or had the reputation of being haunted; but
+that was long ago in the days when it stood neglected and uninhabited.
+
+Southam House, or Southam-de-la-Bere, to the south-west (also depicted
+in Nash), is a curious early-Tudor building of timber and stone, and has
+the advantage over Sudeley, as it was not of sufficient military
+importance to be roughly handled by the Parliamentarian soldiers. The
+ancient painted glass in the windows and an elaborate chimney-piece
+bearing shields of arms came from Hayles Abbey. The ceilings are oak
+panelled, and the arms of Henry VII. occur in numerous places. The
+situation of the house is fine, and the view over the vast stretch of
+country towards Worcestershire and Herefordshire magnificent. The
+builder of the mansion was Sir John Huddleston, whose wife was the queen
+Jane Seymour's aunt. The de-la-Beres, to whom the estate passed by
+marriage, were closely allied with the Plantagenet kings, two sisters
+marrying Thomas Plantagenet, Edward III.'s son, and Henry Plantagenet,
+Duke of Lancaster.
+
+Avoiding Cheltenham, we will pick up the road to Stroud at Birdlip, a
+favourite meeting-place of the hounds on account of the surrounding
+woods. Coming from the south there is a gradual climb through those
+delightful woods until you burst upon a gorgeous view, with the ancient
+"Ermine Street" running, like a white wand lying upon the level pattern
+work of meadowland, to Gloucester, and the hills of Malvern away in the
+distance. Whether it was the great dark mass of hill in the foreground
+contrasted against the level stretch of country, or whether it was the
+stormy sky when we visited Birdlip on a late autumnal day, that gave the
+scene such a wild, romantic look, it would be difficult to say, but we
+remember no view with such breadth of contrast of light and shade, or
+one so fitted to lead the imagination into the mystic realms of
+fairyland.
+
+Up in these heights, and in so secluded a spot, it came as a surprise to
+find a museum. This we believe long since has been dispersed by the
+hammer, but we remember some really interesting things. The lady
+curator, the proprietress of the "Black Horse," had been given many of
+the exhibits by the neighbouring gentry, and was not a little proud of
+her collection. Valuable coins, flint weapons, fossils, pictures, and
+the usual medley. There was one little oil painting on a panel, the head
+of a beautiful girl with high powdered hair of the Georgian period,
+which had all the vigour of a Romney, and undoubtedly was by a master
+craftsman. Two curiosities we remember in particular: a pair of leggings
+said to have been worn by the great Duke of Marlborough, and the wooden
+finger-stocks from a village dame-school. It would be interesting to
+know where these curiosities are now. The only other finger-stocks we
+know of are in Ashby-de-la-Zouch church, Leicestershire.
+
+[Illustration: STOCKS, PAINSWICK.]
+
+Painswick, to the south-west, is a sleepy old town with a fine
+Perpendicular church much restored internally, but containing some
+handsome monuments. The churchyard is noted for its formal array of
+clipped yew trees, probably unique. They have the same peculiarity as
+Stonehenge, for it is said nobody can count them twice the same. As,
+however, we did not visit the adjacent inn, we managed to accomplish the
+task. Close to the church wall are the stocks--iron ones.
+
+[Illustration: NAILSWORTH.]
+
+Upon the way to Stroud many weird old buildings are passed which once
+were, and some are still, cloth mills; but some are deserted and
+dilapidated, and have a sad look, as if remembering more prosperous
+days; and when the leaves are fast falling in the famous golden valley
+they look indeed forlorn. One would think there can be little poetry
+about an old cloth mill, but ere one gives an opinion one must visit the
+golden valley in the autumn. Around Nailsworth, Rodborough, and
+Woodchester there are many ancient houses which have degenerated into
+poor tenements. Such a one at Nailsworth has the brief address "No. 5
+Egypt," which by all appearance was an important house in its day. A
+gentleman who resided in a more squalid part related how he had
+discovered a cavalier's rapier up in the roof of a mansion, but in a
+weak moment had parted with it for half a crown. "Southfield" at
+Woodchester is perhaps the most picturesque of these stately houses, a
+house which near London would fetch a formidable rent, but here a
+ridiculously low one. Some six miles out of Stroud a really decent
+house, garden, and orchard may be had for next to a song. A light
+railway may have now sent prices up, by striking northwards, but not
+many years back we saw one very excellent little place "to let," the
+rent of which was only sixpence a week, and the tenant had given notice
+because the landlord had been so grasping as to raise it to sixpence
+halfpenny!
+
+[Illustration: BEVERSTONE CASTLE.]
+
+Between Nailsworth and Tetbury are Beverstone Castle and the secluded
+manor-house Chavenage within a mile of it. The castle stands near the
+road, an ivy-covered ruin of the time of Edward III., but with portions
+dating from the Conquest. Incorporated are some Tudor remains and some
+old farm buildings, forming together a pleasing picture.
+
+To Major-General Massey, Beverstone, like Sudeley, is indebted for its
+battered appearance. It held out for the king, but Massey with three
+hundred and eighty men came and took it by storm. The general having
+done as much damage as possible in Gloucestershire during the Civil War,
+at length made some repairs by fighting on the other side at Worcester;
+and perhaps it was as well, for had he been on the victorious side he
+might have treated "the faithful city" with as little respect as
+Beverstone. In the peaceful days of the Restoration, which Massey
+lived to see, as there were no more castles to blow up he dabbled
+in the pyrotechnic art, suggestive of the pathetic passage in
+_Patience_--Yearning for whirlwinds, and having to do the best you can
+with the bellows.
+
+The regicide squire of Chavenage must also have been skilled in the
+noble art, for by common report at his death a few months after that of
+the martyr king, he vanished in flames of fire! But there was a
+ceremonious preliminary before this simple and effective mode of
+cremation. A sable coach driven by a headless coachman with a star upon
+his breast arrived at the dead man's door, and the shrouded form of the
+regicide was seen to glide into it. But bad as Nathaniel Stephens may
+have been, it is scarcely just that all future lords of Chavenage must
+make their exit in this manner.
+
+The old house is unpretentious in appearance. Built in the form of the
+letter E, it has tall latticed windows lighting a great hall (famous
+once for its collection of armour), and a plain wing on either side,
+with narrow Elizabethan Gothic-headed windows. There is a ghostly look
+about it. It stands back from the road, but sufficiently near that one
+may see the entrance porch (bearing the date 1579) and the ruts of the
+carriage wheels upon the trim carriage drive. Arguments as strong as any
+in _Ingoldsby_ to prove the mystic story must be true.
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS IN NORTHERN
+WILTSHIRE
+
+
+After a sojourn in north-west Wilts it is refreshing to dip into the
+wooded lanes of the Home Counties and see again the red-brick cottages
+and homesteads which have such a snug and homely look after the cold
+grey stone and glaring chalk roads. For old-world villages and
+manor-houses, however, one could not choose a better exploring ground,
+but not, please note, for the craze of picking up bits of old oak,
+judging by what we overheard the very first day we stopped in one of the
+most out-of-the-way places of all.
+
+"Anything old inside?" asked somebody at the doorway, having led gently
+and gracefully up to it so as not to arouse suspicion. "Nothing," was
+the reply. "May I look round inside?" was asked. "No." Then after a
+pause. "Any other of the cottagers got any old chairs, or china?" "One
+or two of them _had_ some, but they sold what they had to Mrs. ---- of
+----." "_Of_ course," was the disgusted reply; "she's _always_ first, and
+gets everything!"
+
+The conversation gives but an idea of the systematic way that a crusade
+for the antique is carried on. If the hunter makes a "find," and the
+owner will not part, that unfortunate cottager is persecuted until he or
+she does part, sooner or later to regret the folly. And, alas! churches
+are not even sacred from these sharks. How often have we not seen some
+curious piece of furniture mentioned as being in the church, and, lo! it
+has vanished--where? And do not the empty brackets over many an ancient
+tomb tell a tale? What have become of the helmets of the ancient lords
+of the manors? We can quote an instance offhand. In the fine old church
+of Bromham, three of the helmets of the manorial lords, the Bayntons,
+are still there, two of them perhaps only funereal helmets, and not the
+actual casques of warfare; but there are three if not four vacant
+brackets which perchance once supported the envied headpieces with
+pointed visor of the fifteenth century. Aloft also are some rusty
+gauntlets, and one of the helmets still bears the crest of the eagle's
+head. The manor descended from the Beauchamps to the Bayntons, the last
+of whom was the nineteenth in descent from Sir Henry Baynton, Knight
+Marshal of the household to Henry the Second. His mother was the eldest
+daughter and co-heiress of John Wilmot, Earl of Rochester, and Miss
+Malet the runaway heiress. A recumbent effigy of Sir Roger Touchet in
+alabaster (resembling in a remarkable degree the late Sir Henry Irving
+as Richard III.) is covered with the carved initials of vandal visitors,
+not, we may add, only of our own and fathers' and grandfathers' time,
+but dating back from the reign of Elizabeth; so it is comforting to see
+that our ancestors were as prone to disfigure monuments in this way as
+is the modern 'Arry. One of the initials, I. W., perhaps may be that of
+the witty and wicked Earl of Rochester, who by repute made Spye an
+occasional residence, although the Bayntons certainly held the estate
+some years after the Lady Anne, his daughter's death in 1703. The
+ceiling of the Baynton chapel is richly carved, and the bosses and
+brackets show their original faded colouring of blue and gold. There are
+also coloured niches for saints; and on a canopied tomb of Elizabeth
+Touchet, a brass of a kneeling figure, and a tablet of the coat of arms
+is enamelled in colours. There also is a fine brass of John Baynton in
+Gothic armour.
+
+[Illustration: GATE-HOUSE, SPYE PARK.]
+
+All that remains of the old Jacobean house of Spye is a subterranean
+passage beneath the terrace; but the Tudor entrance gate to the
+picturesque park stands on the left-hand side of the road to Lacock just
+before the road begins its winding precipitous descent. Evelyn saw the
+house soon after it was built, and likened it to a long barn. The view
+is superb, but, strangely enough, not a single window looked out upon
+the prospect! After dining and a game of bowls with Sir Edward Baynton,
+the Diarist took coach; but, says Evelyn, "in the meantime our coachmen
+were made so exceeding drunk, that in returning home we escaped great
+dangers. This, it seems, was by order of the knight, that all
+gentlemen's servants be so treated; but the custom is barbarous and much
+unbecoming a knight, still less a Christian."
+
+A mile or so to the east of the entrance gate of Spye is Sandy Lane, a
+tiny hamlet with trim thatched cottages and a sturdy seventeenth-century
+hostelry, the "George," looking down the street; and farther along in
+the direction of Devizes stands the "Bell," another ancient roadside
+inn, which, judging from its mullioned windows, knobbed gables, and
+rustic porch, must date back to the days of the first Charles.
+
+In Bromham village also there are some pretty half-timber buildings, not
+forgetting the "lock-up" by the churchyard. The exterior of the church
+is richly sculptured; a fine example of the purest Gothic.
+
+[Illustration: LACOCK.]
+
+[Illustration: LACOCK.]
+
+Sleepy old Lacock, with its numerous overhanging gables, is a typical
+unspoiled village. It was once upon a time a town, but by all
+appearances it never can have been a flourishing one; and let us hope it
+will remain in its dormant state now that there is nothing out of
+harmony, for the Lacock of to-day must look very much as it did two
+hundred years or more ago. It consists mainly of two wide streets, with
+a fine old church at the end of one and a lofty seventeenth-century inn
+at the other. Opposite the latter is a monastic barn with blocked-up
+arched doorway, and facing it a fine row of timbered houses. Wherever
+you go the pervading tone is grey, and one misses the little front
+gardens with bright flowers and creepers. By the school stands the
+village cross. Farther along a great wide porch projects into the
+street, and over it a charming traceried wooden window. Nearer the
+church the road narrows, and a group of timber cottages make a pleasing
+picture, one of them with a wide entrance of carved oak spandrels above
+an earlier stone doorway. The church, a noble edifice, has a very
+graceful spire and some good tombs, including two wooden mural monuments
+to Edward Baynard who lived in Elizabeth's reign, and to Lady Ursula
+Baynard in the reign of Charles I.
+
+The monument of Sir John Talbot of Lacock describes him as born of the
+most noble family of the Duke of Shrewsbury, which is somewhat
+confusing. Sir John was descended from John, second Earl of Shrewsbury,
+who died in 1460, and his monument was erected when the twelfth earl and
+first duke was living. Sir John died in 1713, and his son and heir
+predeceased him, as mentioned on the monument.
+
+[Illustration: LACOCK.]
+
+[Illustration: LACOCK ABBEY.]
+
+But the principal object of interest at Lacock, of course, is its famous
+abbey, the early fifteenth-century cloisters being, it is said, the most
+perfect example in England. It has been a residence since the
+Dissolution, when the estate was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir William
+Sherrington, the daughter of whose brother Sir Henry married a Talbot of
+Salwarpe, the ancestor of the present owner, C. H. Talbot, Esq., a
+learned antiquary, by whose care and skill so many points of interest
+have been brought to light. The cloisters, refectory, chapter-house,
+sacristy, etc., are in an excellent state of preservation, and there
+are some fine hooded fireplaces, and among the curiosities, a great
+stone tank in which fish were kept; and the nuns' cauldron, something
+after the style of Guy of Warwick's porridge-pot. The groined roof of
+the cloister is remarkable, the bosses showing their original colouring,
+nearly two hundred or more all being of different design. The sides
+facing the road are flanked by an octagonal tower of singular beauty,
+ornamented with balustrades, and a staircase turret crowned with a
+cupola. This contains the muniment-room, in which is preserved Henry
+III.'s Magna Charta, which belonged to the foundress, Ela, Countess of
+Shrewsbury, the widow of William Longespee, the son of Henry II. and
+Fair Rosamond. Dugdale tells us that the site "Snaile's Mede" was
+pointed out to this good lady in a vision. An epitaph to the abbess Ela
+may still be seen within the cloisters.
+
+Sir John Talbot of Lacock was a staunch Royalist, and the first person
+who received the Merry Monarch in his arms at Dover upon his landing in
+1660. Both Sir John and his son Sharington Talbot figure as duellists in
+the diaries of Pepys and Evelyn. The former was one of the six
+combatants in that famous encounter at Barn Elms, where Buckingham
+mortally wounded Francis Talbot, the eleventh Earl of Shrewsbury. Sir
+John proved a better swordsman than his antagonist Captain William
+Jenkins, for the latter was left dead upon the field. The Royal pardon
+from Charles II. is still preserved in Lacock Abbey. The duel between
+the younger Talbot and Captain Love at Glastonbury, in July 1685, is
+mentioned by Evelyn. Both commanded a company of militia against
+Monmouth at Sedgemoor, and after the battle an argument arose as to
+which fought the best. The discussion grew heated, swords were drawn,
+and Talbot was killed. He was the eldest and only surviving son of the
+knight, and had he left issue, upon the death of the eleventh Earl of
+Shrewsbury's son, the first and only duke, the Lacock Talbots would by
+priority have become Earls of Shrewsbury.
+
+[Illustration: BEWLEY COURT.]
+
+Beyond the village, just before the road winds upwards towards Spye
+Park, is Bewley Court, an interesting old farm, with trefoil windows and
+Gothic entrance door of fine proportions. Its hall is intact, having its
+wide open fireplace and open timber roof with carved beams. A reed-grown
+canal, with one of those queer hand drawbridges, serves as the moat of
+yore. Bewley by some is corrupted into "Brewery," for close by there is
+such an establishment, and the ancient name has become submerged. There
+are said to have been four Courts originally belonging to Lacock Abbey,
+but this is the only remaining one.
+
+Each approach to Lacock is picturesque, but the most pleasing is from
+the lane which runs up to Gastard and Corsham. This joins the Melksham
+road by a charming old gabled and timbered cottage, not architecturally
+remarkable, but pleasing in outline and colour. From the lane above,
+this roadside cottage stands out against a background of wooded hill,
+and when the sun is low it presents a picture which must have tempted
+many an artist. On the way to Gastard and thence to Neston there are
+many tumble-down old places which seem to be entirely out of touch with
+the twentieth century. But at the highest point there is a startling
+notice which might alarm a motorist should he lose his way up in these
+narrow lanes. "Beware of the trams" is posted up in big letters! You
+look around in astonishment, for silence reigns supreme; but by and bye
+you come upon a stone quarry near the dilapidated entrance to what was
+once probably a manor house, and a light falls upon the meaning of the
+"trams." An artistic projecting signboard not far off bears the
+inscription:
+
+  "Arise, get up the Season now
+  Drive up Brave Boys
+  God speed the Plough."
+
+Up a narrow lane is a tiny chapel with a stone mullioned window cut down
+into a semicircle at the top. A little stone sundial over the entrance
+door, and the smallest burial-ground we have ever seen, are worth
+notice for their quaintness. Farther to the west is Wormwood Farm, whose
+ivy-clad gables give the house a more homely look than most hereabouts.
+Higher up in a very bleak position is Chapel Plaster Hermitage, an older
+building, whose little belfry surely cannot summon many worshippers. It
+was a halting-place of pilgrims to Glastonbury, and in Georgian days of
+lonely travellers, who were eased of their purses by a gentleman of the
+road named Baxter, who afterwards was hung up as a warning on Claverton
+Down. Near the wood, the resort of this highwayman, is Hazelbury House,
+a sixteenth-century mansion, much reduced in size, whose formidable
+battlemented garden walls are worthy of a fortress. It was once a seat
+of the Strodes, whose arms are displayed on the lofty piers of the
+entrance gate. On the other side of the Great Bath road is Cheney Court,
+another gabled mansion which has been of importance in its day, and
+within half a mile, Coles Farm, a smaller building, alas! fast falling
+to decay. Its windows are broken and its panelled rooms are open to the
+weather. We ploughed our way through garden, or what was once a garden,
+waist-high with weeds, to a Tudor doorway whose door presumably was more
+accustomed to be opened than closed. At the foot of the staircase was a
+little wicket gate leading to the capacious cellars. Somebody had
+scrawled above an ancient fireplace close by, a plea against wanton
+mischief; but that was the only sign that anybody was interested in the
+place. But we learned something from an intelligent farmer who was
+picking apples in one of the surrounding orchards. It was very sad, he
+said, but so it had remained for years. The owner was abroad, and though
+various people had tried to buy it, there were legal difficulties which
+prevented it. "But why not find a tenant?" we asked. "That would surely
+be better than allowing it to fall to pieces!" He shook his head. "'Tis
+too far gone," he said, "and there's no money to put it in repair." So
+Coles Farm, situated in the midst of lovely hills and orchards, gives
+the cold shoulder to many a willing tenant.
+
+It is a precipitous climb from here to Colerne, which across the valley
+looks old and inviting from the Bath road. But the place is sadly
+disappointing, and Hunters' Hall, which once upon a time was used as an
+inn and possessed some remarkably fine oak carvings, is now a shell, and
+scarcely worth notice.
+
+[Illustration: CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: CORSHAM ALMSHOUSE.]
+
+The village of Corsham, approached either from the north or south, is
+equally picturesque. By the former there is a long row of sturdy Tudor
+cottages with mullioned windows and deep-set doorways; by the latter,
+the grey gables of the ancient Hungerford Hospital, and beyond the huge
+piers of the entrance to Corsham Court. An inscription over the
+almshouse porch and beneath the elaborate sculptured arms of the
+Hungerfords, says that it was founded by Lady Margaret Hungerford,
+daughter of William Halliday, alderman of London, and Susan, daughter of
+Sir Henry Row, Knight, Lord Mayor of London. The chapel is on the
+right-hand side, and contains the original Jacobean pulpit, seats, and
+gallery. The pulpit is a two-decker, and the seat beneath a comfortable
+armchair of large proportions with an ingenious folding footstool. The
+screen is a fine piece of Jacobean carving, with pilasters and
+semicircular arches of graceful design, with the Hungerford arms upon
+two shields. There is a good oak staircase and a quaint exterior
+corridor leading to the several dwellings, with trim little square
+gardens allotted to each. Corsham Court has a stately and dignified
+appearance. The second entrance gate has colossal piers, which quite
+dwarf the others previously mentioned. Beyond are the stables, a
+picturesque row of Elizabethan gables and pinnacles. The south front of
+the house preserves its original character in the form of the letter E
+with the arms and the crest of the builder, William Halliday, on
+pinnacles over the gables, and seven bay-windows. The interior of the
+mansion has been much modernised, but the picture collection contains
+some of the choicest old masters. Some of Lord Methuen's ancestors by
+Reynolds and Gainsborough are wonderfully vigorous. Here is Vandyck's
+Charles I. on horseback, with which one is so familiar. How many
+replicas must there be of this famous picture! Charles II. hangs
+opposite his favourite son in one of the corridors--a fine portrait of
+the handsome Monmouth. One of the most curious pictures is a group by
+Sir Peter Lely, representing himself in mediaeval costume playing the
+violoncello to his own family in light and airy dress. One would have
+thought that he would have clad his wife and daughters more fully than
+some of his famous beauties: on the contrary. The church, whose tower is
+detached, has been restored from time to time, and looks by no means
+lacking in funds. The carved parclose of stone and two altar-tombs to
+the Hanhams are the chief points of interest. There is a simple
+recumbent effigy of one of the Methuens, a little girl, which in its
+natural sleeping pose is strangely pathetic, even to those who know
+nothing of the story of her early death.
+
+[Illustration: CASTLE COMBE.]
+
+Biddestone, above Corsham, has many good old houses round its village
+green. The little bell turret to the church is singular, but the eye is
+detracted by an ugly stove-pipe which sticks out of the roof close by.
+There is some Roman work within, but the high box pews look out of
+keeping. About three miles to the north-west is Castle Combe, one of
+the sweetest villages in Wiltshire or in any other county. It is
+surrounded by hills and hanging woods, and lies deep down and hidden
+from view. As you descend, the banks on either side show glimpses, here
+and there; a grey gable peeping out of the dense foliage or grey
+cottages perched up high. Still downward, the road winds in the shade of
+lofty trees, then suddenly you find yourself looking down upon the
+quaint old market-cross, with the grey church tower peering over some
+ancient roofs. This presumably is the market-place,--not a busy one by
+any means, for beyond an aged inhabitant resting on the solid stone
+base, or perhaps a child or two climbing up and down the steps (for it
+is a splendid playground)--all is still. The village pump alongside the
+cross, truly, supplies occasional buckets of water for the various
+gabled stone cottages around, indeed (as is invariably the case when
+one's camera is in position) people seemed to spring up from nowhere,
+and the pump handle was exceptionally busy. The cross is richly
+sculptured with shields and roses at the base, and the shaft rises high
+above the picturesque old roof, which is supported by four moulded stone
+supports. Undoubtedly it is one of the most perfect fifteenth-century
+crosses in England. The road still winds downwards to a rushing stream
+crossed by a little bridge, and here there is a group of pretty cottages
+with prettier gardens abutting on the road. We have seen these under
+very different aspects, in March with snow upon the creepers, and in
+October when the creepers were brilliant scarlet, and scarcely know
+which made the prettier picture. The sound of rushing water adds romance
+to this sweet village.
+
+The ancient family of Scrope has been seated here for over five
+centuries and a half. The "Castle Inn" by the market-cross remains
+primitive in its arrangements, although the "tripping" season makes
+great demands upon its supplies. Though ordinarily quiet enough,
+occasionally there is a swarm, and a sudden demand of a hundred or so
+"teas" is enough to try the resources of any hostess. But it was too
+much for the poor lady here; her health was bad, and she would have to
+flee before another season came round. Strange to say, it is the
+slackness of business that usually sends folks away. The graceful
+fifteenth-century pinnacled and embattled tower of the church gives the
+ancient building a grand appearance. The church is rich in stained
+glass, containing the arms of the various lords of the manor.
+
+[Illustration: YATTON KEYNELL MANOR.]
+
+Yatton Keynell, a couple of miles eastwards, possesses a fine Jacobean
+manor-house, with a curious porch and very uncommon mullioned window.
+The wing to the right was demolished not many years ago, so that now a
+front of three gables is all that remains; and though it looks fairly
+capacious, there are but few rooms, the space being taken up with
+staircase (a fine one) and attics. The exterior of the church is good,
+but the interior is "as new as ninepence," saving a fine
+fifteenth-century stone rood-screen. The spiral staircase up to the
+summit has been cut through, which is a pity, as otherwise the organ
+would have been less conspicuous. The steps of the village cross now
+serve as a basement for the village inn.
+
+[Illustration: BULLICH MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+The churches of Stanton St. Quinton and Kingston St. Michael have
+suffered internally as much as that of Yatton Keynell, and, alas! the
+fourteenth-century manor-house of the St. Quintons is now no more. An
+aged person working in the churchyard, though very proud that he had
+helped to pull it down, insisted on pointing out the "ould dov-cart"
+This may be pure "Wilshire," but until we saw the dovecot we did not
+grasp the meaning. Nearer Chippenham is Bullich House, which fortunately
+has been left in peace. Beside the entrance gate two queer little
+"gazebos" were covered with Virginia creeper in its bright autumn tints.
+The remains of the clear moat washed the garden wall, over which peeped
+the gables of the house with the waning red sunlight reflected in the
+casements--this was a picture to linger in one's memory; and there is
+no telling how far one's fancy might not have been led by speculating
+upon the meaning of two grim heads which form pinnacles above the porch,
+had the stillness not been broken by the harsh sounds of the gramophone
+issuing from a neighbouring cottage! If Bullich possesses a ghost, as it
+ought to, judging by appearances, surely an up-to-date music-hall ditty
+should "lay" him in the moat in desperation.
+
+[Illustration: SHELDON MANOR.]
+
+[Illustration: SHELDON MANOR.]
+
+About a mile away on the western side of the main road from Chippenham
+to Yatton Keynell is Sheldon Manor, a charming old residence with a
+great Gothic porch like a church, and a Gothic window over it belonging
+to what is called the "Priest's chamber." Upon the gable end, over it,
+is one of those queer little box sundials one occasionally sees in
+Wiltshire. As you enter the porch the massive staircase faces you, with
+its picturesque newels and pendants, and the little carved oak gate,
+which was there to keep the dogs downstairs. In the wall to the right,
+just beyond the entrance door, is a curious stone trough of fair
+capacity. It is screened by a door, and exteriorly looks like a
+cupboard; but what was the use of this trough we are at a loss to
+conjecture, unless in old days the horses were admitted.
+
+[Illustration: SOUTH WRAXALL MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: SOUTH WRAXALL.]
+
+But two of the finest old houses in the county are certainly South
+Wraxall and Great Chaldfield, situated within a couple of miles from one
+another to the west of Melksham. The former has recently been converted
+from a farmhouse again into a mansion, and the latter is now undergoing
+careful restoration. Though the exterior of Great Chaldfield is
+unimpaired, and as perfect a specimen of an early fifteenth-century
+house as one could wish to see, sad havoc has been played inside. The
+great hall many years ago was so divided up that it was difficult to
+guess at its original proportions. The finest Gothic windows with
+groined roofs, ornamental bosses, and fireplaces, and carved oak beams,
+have long since been blocked up and their places filled with mean ones
+of the Georgian period or later. To fully comprehend the wholesale
+obliteration of the original work, one has only to see the thousand bits
+of sculptured masonry laid out upon the lawn of the back garden. To
+place the pieces of the puzzle correctly together must be a task to try
+the knowledge and patience of the most expert in such matters, but piece
+by piece each is going into its proper place. The huge stone heads with
+scooped-out eyes, through which the ancient lord of the manor could
+watch what was going on below in the hall without being observed, once
+again will be reinstated. There are three of them, and the hollowed eyes
+have sharp edges, as if they were cut out only yesterday. Then there is
+an ungainly grinning figure of the fifteenth century, locally known as
+"Blue Beard," who within living memory has sat on the lawn in front of
+the mansion; but his proper place is up aloft on top of one of the gable
+ends, and there, of course, he will go, and, like Sister Ann, be able to
+survey the road to Broughton Gifford to see whether anybody is coming.
+Among the rooms now under course of repair is "Blue Beard's chamber,"
+and naturally enough the neighbouring children of the past generation
+(we do not speak of the present, for doubtless up-to-date education has
+made them far too knowing to treat such things seriously--the more's the
+pity) used to hold the house in holy dread. But there certainly is a
+creepy look about it, especially towards dusk, when the light of the
+western sky shines through the shell of a beautiful oriel window, and
+makes the monsters on the gable ends stand out while the front courtyard
+is wrapt in shade. The reed-grown moat gives the house a neglected and
+sombre look. The group of buildings, with curious little church with its
+crocketed bell turret on one side and a great barn on the other, is
+altogether remarkable. How it got the name of "Blue Beard's Castle" we
+could not learn. Recently a "priest's hole" has been discovered up
+against the ceiling in a corner of his chamber; but whether he concealed
+himself here or some of his wives we cannot say.
+
+At the back of the manor there used to be a tumble-down old mill, which
+unfortunately is now no more. The little church contains a good stone
+screen (which has been removed from its original position), and some
+stained glass in the windows. The pulpit, a canopied two-decker, and the
+capacious high-backed pews (half a dozen at the most) have the
+appearance of a pocket place of worship. But Great Chaldfield is a
+parish by itself without a village; the congregation also is a pocket
+one.
+
+As before stated, South Wraxall manor-house is restored to all its
+ancient dignity; but somehow or other, though much care and money have
+been bestowed upon it, it seems to have lost half of its poetry, for the
+walls and gardens are now so trim and orderly, that it is almost
+difficult to recognise it as the same when the gardens were weed-grown
+and the walls toned with lichen and moss. Moreover, the road has been
+diverted, so that now the fine old gatehouse stands not against the
+highway, but well within the boundary walls. Inside are some remarkably
+fine old rooms with linen panelling. The drawing-room has a superb stone
+sculptured mantelpiece, upon which are represented Prudentia,
+Arithmetica, Geometrica, and Justicia, and Pan occupies the middle
+pedestal supporting the frieze, while four larger figures support the
+mantel. The ceiling is coved, and ornamented with enormous pendants, and
+the cornice above the great bay mullioned-window is enriched with a
+curious design. A remarkable feature of the room is a three-sided
+projection of the wall, the upper part of which is panelled, having
+scooped-out niches for five seats, one in the middle and two on either
+side. The banqueting-room also is a typical room of Queen Elizabeth's
+time, and the "Guest chamber" is one of the many rooms in England which
+claim the honour of inhaling the first fumes from a tobacco-pipe in
+England. But Raleigh's pipe here is said to have been of solid silver;
+moreover, tradition does not state that it was so rudely extinguished as
+elsewhere, with a bucket of water: so, at any rate, here the story is
+more dignified. To settle definitely where Sir Walter smoked his first
+pipe would be as difficult a problem as to decide which was the mansion
+where the bride hid herself in the oak chest, or which was King John's
+favourite hunting lodge.
+
+
+
+
+EASTERN AND SOUTHERN
+SOMERSET
+
+
+[Illustration: THE GEORGE, NORTON ST. PHILIP.]
+
+[Illustration: THE GEORGE, NORTON ST. PHILIP.]
+
+Somersetshire abounds in old-world villages, more particularly the
+eastern division, or rather the eastern side--to the east, say, of a
+line drawn from Bristol to Crewkerne. This line would intersect such
+famous historic places as Wells and Glastonbury, but in our limited
+space we must confine our attention more particularly to more remote
+spots. One of these, for example, is the village of Norton St. Philip,
+midway between Bath and Frome, which possesses one of the oldest and
+most picturesque inns in England. This wonderful timber building of
+projecting storeys dates mainly from the fifteenth century, although it
+has been a licensed house since 1397, and upon its solid basement of
+stone the "George" looks good for many centuries to come. It was
+formerly known as the "Old House," not that the other buildings at
+Norton St. Philip are by any means new. It is merely, comparatively
+speaking, a matter of a couple of hundred years or so.
+
+Many are the local stories and traditions of "Philips Norton Fight," for
+here it was that the Duke of Monmouth's followers had the first real
+experience of warfare; and the encounter with the Royalist soldiers was
+a sharp one while it lasted. Monmouth's intention of attacking Bristol
+had been abandoned, and during a halt at Norton on June 27, 1685, his
+little army was overtaken by the king's forces under the young Duke of
+Grafton, Monmouth's half-brother. The lane where fighting was briskest
+used to be remembered as "Monmouth Street," possibly the same steep and
+narrow lane now called Bloody Lane, which winds round to the back of the
+Manor Farm (some remains of which go back quite a century before
+Monmouth's time), through the courtyard of which the duke marched his
+regiment to attack the enemy in flank. The other end of the lane was
+barricaded, so Grafton was caught in a trap, and had difficulty in
+fighting his way through.
+
+Both armies sought protection of the high hedges, which, take it all
+round, got the worst of it; but Grafton lost considerably more men than
+Monmouth, although a cannonade of six hours on both sides only had one
+victim. An old resident living fifty years ago, whose great-grandfather
+fought for "King Monmouth," used to relate how the duke's field pieces
+were planted by the "Old House," his grace's headquarters; and the
+tradition yet lingers in the inn that Colonel Holmes, on Monmouth's
+side, finished the amputation of his own arm, which was shattered with a
+shot, with a carving knife. Some of the ancient farmhouses between Bath
+and Frome preserve some story or another in connection with "Norton
+Fight," and George Roberts relates in his excellent Life of Monmouth
+that early in the nineteenth century the song was still sung:
+
+  "The Duke of Monmouth is at Norton Town
+  All a fighting for the Crown
+              Ho-boys-ho."
+
+There are some curious old rooms in the "George"; and it is astonishing
+the amount of space that is occupied by the attics, the timbers of which
+are enormous. Up in these dimly lighted wastes, report says that a cloth
+fair was held three times a year; and one may see the shaft or well up
+which the cloth was hauled from a side entrance in the street. The fair
+survives in a very modified form on one of the dates, May 1st. Upon
+the first floor, approached by a spiral stone staircase, is "Monmouth's
+room," the windows of which look up the road to Trowbridge. The open
+Tudor fireplace, the oaken beams and uneven floor, carries the mind back
+to the illustrious visitor who already was well aware that he was
+playing a losing game, and knew what he might expect from the
+unforgiving James. At the back of the old inn is the galleried yard, a
+very primitive one, now almost ruinous, with rooms, leading from the
+open corridors, tumbling to pieces, and floors unsafe to walk upon.
+Through the gaps may be seen the cellars below, containing three huge
+beer barrels, each of a thousand gallons' capacity. A fine stone
+fireplace in one will make a plunge below ere very long.
+
+But Somersetshire owns another remarkable fifteenth-century hostelry,
+the "George" at Glastonbury, in character entirely different from that
+at Norton St. Philip. The panelled and traceried Gothic stonework of the
+front, with its graceful bay-window rising to the roof, is perhaps more
+beautiful but not so quaint, nor has it that rugged vastness of the
+other which somehow impresses us with the rough-and-tumble hospitality
+of the Middle Ages. "Ye old Pilgrimme Inn," as the "George" at
+Glastonbury once was called, was built in Edward IV.'s reign, whose arms
+are displayed over the entrance gateway. Here is, or was, preserved the
+bedstead said to have been used by Henry VIII. when he paid a visit to
+the famous abbey.
+
+A mile or so before one gets to Norton, travelling up the main road from
+Frome, there is one of those exasperating signposts which are
+occasionally planted about the country. The road divides, and the sign
+points directly in the middle at a house between. It says "To Bath," and
+that is all; and people have to ask the way to that fashionable place at
+the aforesaid house. The inmate wearily came to the door. How many times
+had he been asked the same question! He was driven to desperation, and
+was going to invest in some black paint and a brush for his own as well
+as travellers' comfort. But how much worse when there is no habitation
+where to make inquiries! You are often led carefully up to a desolate
+spot, and then abandoned in the most heartless fashion. The road forks,
+and either there is no signpost, or the place you are nearing is not
+mentioned at all. Unless your intuitive perception is beyond the
+ordinary, you must either toss up for it, or sit down and wait
+peacefully until some one may chance to pass by.
+
+[Illustration: CHARTERHOUSE HINTON.]
+
+[Illustration: WELLOW MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+The church and manor-house of the pretty village of Wellow, above Norton
+to the north-west, are rich in oak carvings. The latter was one of the
+seats of the Hungerfords, and was built in the reign of Charles I. In
+the rubbish of the stable-yard, for it is now a farm, a friend of ours
+picked up a spur of seventeenth-century date, which probably had lain
+there since the Royalist soldiers were quartered upon their way to meet
+the Monmouth rebels. Another seat of the Hungerfords was Charterhouse
+Hinton Manor, to the east of Wellow, a delightful old ivy-clad dwelling,
+incorporated with the remains of a thirteenth-century priory. Corsham
+and Heytesbury also belonged to this important family; but their
+residence for over three centuries was the now ruinous castle of
+Farleigh, midway between Hinton and Norton to the east. These formidable
+walls and round towers, embowered in trees and surrounded by orchards,
+are romantically placed above a ravine whose beauty is somewhat marred
+by a factory down by the river. The entrance gatehouse is fairly
+perfect, but the clinging ivy obliterates its architectural details and
+the carved escutcheon over the doorway. But were it not for this natural
+protection the gatehouse would probably share the fate of one of the
+round towers of the northern court, whose ivy being removed some sixty
+years ago brought it down with a run. The castle chapel is full of
+interest, with frescoed walls and flooring of black and white marble.
+The magnificent monuments of the Hungerfords duly impress one with their
+importance. The recumbent effigies of the knights and dames, with the
+numerous shields of arms and their various quarterings, are quite
+suggestive of a corner in Westminster Abbey, though not so dark and
+dismal. Here lie the bodies of Sir Thomas, Sir Walter, and Sir Edward
+Hungerford, the first of whom fought at Crecy and the last on the
+Parliamentary side, when his fortress was held for the king, and
+surrendered in September 1645. His successor and namesake did his best
+to squander away his fortune of thirty thousand pounds a year. His
+numerous mansions were sold, including the castle, and his town house
+pulled down and converted into the market at Charing Cross, where his
+bewigged bust was set up in 1682. His son Edward, who predeceased him
+before he came to man's estate (or what was left of his father's),
+married the Lady Althea Compton, who was well endowed. In the letters
+preserved at Belvoir we learn that the union was without her sire's
+consent. "She went out with Mis Grey," writes Lady Chaworth in one of
+her letters to Lord Roos, "as to a play, but went to Sir Edward
+Hungerford's, where a minister, a ring, and the confidents were wayting
+for them, and so young Hungerford maried her; after she writ to the
+Bishop of London to acquaint and excuse her to her father, upon which he
+sent a thundering command for her to come home that night which she did
+obey." A week later she made her escape. But the runaway couple were
+soon to be parted. Eight months passed, and she was dead; and the
+youthful widower survived only three years. Old Sir Edward lived
+sufficiently long to repent his extravagant habits, for he is said to
+have died in poverty at five score and fifteen!
+
+[Illustration: OLD HOUSE NEAR CROSCOMBE.]
+
+[Illustration: BECKINGTON CASTLE.]
+
+Beckington, about four miles to the south of Farleigh, has another
+castle, but more a castle in name than anything else. It is a fine
+many-gabled house, by all appearances not older than the reign of James
+I. or perhaps Elizabeth. It is close against the road, and practically
+in the village, where are other lofty houses similar in character. There
+is an erroneous tradition that James II. slept here the night before the
+battle of Sedgemoor, regardless of the fact that his sacred Majesty was
+snug in London. The house was long neglected and deserted, and owing to
+stories of ghostly visitors and subterranean passages could not find a
+purchaser at L100! But this was many years ago, as will be seen from an
+advertisement quoted in an old number of _Notes and Queries_. Things are
+different now, for ghosts and subterranean passages have a marketable
+value.
+
+Somersetshire abounds in superstitions as well as in old-world villages.
+From the southern part of the county come tales of people being
+bewitched, and it is a good thing for many an aged crone that their
+supposed offences are thought lightly of nowadays.
+
+Some five years ago a notorious "wise man" of Somerset, known as Dr.
+Stacey, fell down stairs and broke his neck. The doctor's clients
+doubtless had expected a more dignified ending to his career, for,
+judging from his powers of keeping evil or misfortune at arm's-length,
+it was a regular thing for people who had been "overlooked" to seek a
+consultation so as to get the upper hand of the evil influence. His
+patients were usually received at midnight, when incantations were held
+and mysterious powders burned. In most instances this was done where
+there had been continual losses in stock, or on farms where the cattle
+had fallen sick.
+
+A remarkable instance of credulity only the other day came from the East
+End of London, which, happening in the twentieth century, is too
+astonishing not to be recorded here. A young Jewess sought the aid of a
+Russian "wise woman" to bring the husband back who had deserted her. The
+process was a little complicated. Eighteen pennyworth of candles stuck
+all round with pins were burned. Pins also had to be sewn into the
+lady's garments, and some "clippings" from a black cat had to be burned
+in the fire. The cost of these mysterious charms altogether amounted to
+nearly six pounds, which was expensive considering the truant husband
+did not return. During some recent alterations to an old house near
+Kilrush, Ireland, beneath the flooring was discovered a doll dressed
+to personify a woman against whom a former occupant owed a deadly
+grudge. It was stabbed through the breast with a dagger-shaped hairpin,
+which presumably it was hoped would bring about a more speedy death than
+the slower process of melting a diminutive waxen effigy.
+
+Cases of ague in Somerset are said to succumb if a spider is captured
+and starved to death! Consumptives also are said to be cured by carrying
+them through a flock of sheep in the morning when the animals are first
+let out of the fold. It is said to bode good luck if, when drinking, a
+fly should drop into one's cup or glass. When this happens, we have
+somewhere heard, that a person's nationality may be discovered; but beer
+must be the liquid. A Spaniard leaves his drink and is mute. A Frenchman
+leaves it also untouched, but uses strong language. An Englishman pours
+the beer away and orders another glass. A German extracts the fly with
+his finger and finishes his beer. A Russian drinks the beer, fly and
+all. And a Chinaman fishes out the fly, swallows it, and throws away the
+beer.
+
+But enough of these peculiarities.
+
+[Illustration: CROSCOMBE CHURCH.]
+
+[Illustration: CROSCOMBE.]
+
+In the wooded vale between Shepton Mallet and Wells is a pretty
+straggling village of whitewashed houses with Tudor mullioned windows
+and, some of them, Tudor fireplaces within. This is Croscombe, which,
+like Crowcombe in western Somerset, has its village cross, but a
+mutilated one, and a church rich in Jacobean woodwork. The canopied
+pulpit, dated 1616, and the chancel screen, reaching almost to the roof,
+bearing the Royal arms, are perhaps the finest examples of the period to
+be found anywhere. An inn, once a priory, near the cross has panelled
+ceilings and other features of the fifteenth century. Some old cloth
+mills, with their emerald green mill-ponds, are one of the peculiarities
+of Croscombe. Shepton Mallet is depressing, perhaps because crape is
+manufactured there. A lonely old hostelry to the south of the town known
+as "Cannard's Grave," not a cheery sign under the most favourable
+circumstances, but with padlocked doors and windows boarded up as we saw
+it, had a forbidding look, and seemed to warrant the mysterious stories
+that are told about it. The cross in the market-place was erected in
+1500, but it has been too scraped and restored to classify it with those
+at Cheddar or Malmesbury. The church contains a fine oak roof and some
+ancient tombs, mainly to the Strodes, an important Somersetshire family
+with Republican tendencies, one of whom harboured the Duke of Monmouth
+in his house the night after his defeat at Sedgemoor. The remains of
+this house, "Downside," stand about a mile from Shepton Mallet, but it
+has been altered and restored from time to time, so that now it has
+lost much of its ancient appearance. The pistols which the duke left
+here remained in the possession of descendants until about eight years
+ago, when they were lost. Monmouth's host, Edward Strode, also owned
+what is now called "Monmouth House," from the fact that the duke slept
+there on June 23rd and 30th, 1685, upon his march from Bridgwater
+towards Bristol and back again. Monmouth's room may yet be seen, and not
+many years ago possessed its original furniture.[18]
+
+[Illustration: LYTES CARY MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: LYTES CARY MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: FIREPLACE, LYTES CARY.]
+
+At Cannard's Grave we strike into the old Foss way, and if we follow it
+through West Lydford towards Ilchester we shall find on the left-hand
+side, a quarter of a mile or so from the road, Lytes Cary, one of the
+most compact little manor-houses in western England. But the fine old
+rooms are bare and almost ruinous. The arms of the Lytes occur in some
+shields of arms in the "decorated" chapel (which is now a cider cellar),
+and upon a projecting bay-window near a fine embattled and pierced
+parapet. The hall is entered from the entrance porch (over which is a
+graceful oriel), and has its timber roof and rich cornice intact. On the
+first floor is a spacious panelled room with Tudor bay-window (dated
+1533) and open fireplace, which if carefully restored would make a
+delightful dwelling room; and it seems a thousand pities that this and
+other apartments dating from the fourteenth century should be in their
+present neglected state. The front of the manor-house reminds one of
+Great Chaldfield in Wiltshire, but on a smaller scale and exteriorly
+less elaborate in architectural detail.
+
+The eastern corner of the western division of Somerset is especially
+rich in picturesque old villages and mansions--that is to say, the
+country enclosed within or just beyond the four towns Langport,
+Somerton, Chard, and Yeovil. Within this area, or a mile or so beyond,
+we have the grand seats of Montacute, Brympton D'Eversy, Hinton St
+George, and Barrington Court; the smaller but equally interesting
+manor-houses of Sandford Orcas, South Petherton, and Tintinhull, and the
+quaint old villages and churches of Trent, Martock, Curry Rivel, etc.
+
+[Illustration: ANCIENT SCREEN. CURRY RIVEL CHURCH.]
+
+The ancient county town of Somerton having been left severely alone by
+the railway, remains in a very dormant state, and, of course, is
+picturesque in proportion, as will be seen by its octagonal canopied
+market-cross and the group of buildings adjacent Langport lies low, and
+is uninviting, with marshy pools around, with to the north-west
+Bridgwater way the villages of Chedzoy, Middlezoy, and Weston Zoyland,
+full of memories of the fight at Sedgemoor. The church of Curry Rivel,
+to the west of Langport, has many ancient carvings, and retains its
+beautiful oak screen and bench-ends of the fifteenth century. Within its
+ancient ornamented ironwork railing is a curious Jacobean tomb,
+representing the recumbent effigies of two troopers, Marmaduke and
+Robert Jennings. It seems selfish that they should thus lie in state
+while their wives are kneeling below by two little cribs containing
+their children tucked up in orderly rows like mummified bambinoes. On
+the summit of a circular arch above, five painted cherubs are reclining
+at their ease, and chained to one of the iron railings is a little
+coffer which gives a touch of mystery to the whole. What does this
+little sealed coffer contain?--for it must have been in its present
+position since the monument was erected. Are the warriors' hearts
+therein, or the bones of the five bambinoes? There is another Jacobean
+tomb, just like a cumbrous cabinet of the period. It is hideous enough
+for anything, and obscures one of three interesting fourteenth-century
+mural monuments.
+
+In the old farmhouse of Burrow, near Curry Rivel, some swords and
+jack-boots of the time of Charles II. were preserved. They are now in
+the museum at Taunton, where we regret to say the buckle worn by the
+Duke of Monmouth, and Lord Feversham's dish are now no longer[19] with
+the other interesting relics of the fight at Sedgemoor.
+
+[Illustration: BARRINGTON COURT.]
+
+At Barrington Court and White Lackington manor-house, both near
+Ilminster, Monmouth was entertained in princely state during his
+progress through the western counties to win popularity. The latter is a
+plain gabled house (a portion only of the original) which has suffered
+by the insertion of sash windows. It seems to bear out its name, for it
+is very white and staring. But Barrington is one of the most perfect
+Elizabethan houses in Somersetshire, that is to say exteriorly, for the
+inside has long since been stripped and modernised. The myriad of
+pinnacles upon its gable ends, and its general appearance, recall the
+stately Sussex mansion Wakehurst: the situation, however, is vastly
+different, for it stands bare of trees on a wide extensive flat. The
+Spekes of White Lackington and the Strodes of Barrington, it goes
+without saying, were notorious Whigs; and though the duke's hosts
+favoured his cause, they both managed to save their necks when the
+terrible Jeffreys came down upon his memorable Progress. But the name of
+Speke was enough for the judge, and the youngest son of White
+Lackington, whose sins did not extend beyond shaking hands with his
+father's illustrious guest, was swung up on a tree at Ilminster. In
+the lovely fields around the manor-house it is difficult to imagine a
+throng of twenty thousand who accompanied the popular duke. The giant
+Spanish chestnut tree beneath which Monmouth dined in public, and which
+had braved the tempests of many centuries, fell, alas! a victim to the
+storm of March, 2, 1897, and with the destruction of "Monmouth's tree" a
+link with 1680 has departed never to return. Barrington, we understand,
+has recently been taken under the protecting wing of the Society for the
+Preservation of Ancient Buildings, for which all those interested in
+domestic architecture as well as buildings of historic association must
+feel grateful.
+
+[Illustration: HINTON ST. GEORGE.]
+
+The little town of South Petherton, midway between Ilminster and
+Ilchester, is full of old nooks and corners, from its ancient cruciform
+church to the old hostelry in the High Street. From a very early date it
+was a place of great importance; but since the days of the Saxon monarch
+who resided there, the Daubeneys have stamped their identity upon King
+Ina's palace, of which there are picturesque Tudor remains incorporated
+in a modern dwelling, which to our mind has robbed it of the poetry it
+possessed when in a ruinous condition. The villages of Martock above and
+Hinton St George below are also full of interest; and both possess
+their ancient market-crosses, but now curtailed and converted into
+sundials with stone-step massive bases. But the glory of Martock is its
+grand old church (where Fairfax and Cromwell offered up a prayer for the
+capture of Bridgwater in 1645), whose carved black oak roof is one of
+the finest in the west of England.[20] The ancient seat of the Pouletts
+is an extensive but by no means beautiful house. It has a squat
+appearance, being only two storeys high, with battlemented towers at the
+angles and Georgian and Victorian Gothic sash-windows; but on the
+southern side, a pierced parapet and classic windows give it a less
+barrack-like appearance. Sir Amias Poulett (or Paulet, as it was
+formerly spelled), the grandson of the builder of the house, who won his
+spurs at the battle of Newark-on-Trent, is principally famous from the
+fact that he put Wolsey in the stocks when that great person held the
+living of Lymington, and upon one occasion took more than was good for
+him. But the cardinal afterwards had his revenge, and put fine upon Sir
+Amias to build the gate of the Middle Temple, which formerly bore the
+prelate's arms elaborately carved, as a peace-offering from Sir Amias.
+Lymington in Hampshire is often associated with the stocks' episode, but
+Lymington near Ilchester, and some ten miles from Hinton, was the place.
+Sir Amias had the custody of Mary Queen of Scots during the latter part
+of her long imprisonment, and to him the "Good Queen" (?) more than
+hinted that it would be a kindness to hasten her victim's end by private
+assassination. Paulet, however, had a conscience, so Elizabeth had to
+take upon herself the responsibility of Mary's execution.
+
+The historic stocks of Lymington are now no more, but beneath a big elm
+tree on the village green at Tintinhull, close by, they still are
+flourishing. Tintinhull, like Trent and other neighbouring villages, is
+full of picturesque old houses, sturdy stone Jacobean and Tudor
+cottages, with garden borderings of slabs of stone set up edgeways, and
+slabs of stone running along the footway in a delightfully primitive
+fashion. Tintinhull Court is a stately old pile dating from the reign of
+Henry VIII. Its oldest side faces the garden, but the main front is a
+good type of the seventeenth century. We will not repeat here the
+particulars of Charles II.'s concealment at the old seat of the Wyndhams
+after the battle of Worcester;[21] but on the spot, and though the
+greater part of the house has been rebuilt, one may realise the
+incidents in that romantic episode, for the village of Trent to-day is
+much the same as the village of 1651.
+
+[Illustration: SANDFORD ORCAS MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+The manor-house of Sandford Orcas, to the north-east of Trent (which by
+the way now belongs to Dorset), is quite a gem of early-Elizabethan
+architecture, with crests upon the gable ends, and the Tudor and Knoyle
+arms and graceful panels upon the warm-coloured walls of Ham Hill stone.
+Though a small house, it has its great hall with carved oak screen; and
+most of the rooms are panelled, and have their original fireplaces. The
+wide arched Tudor gateway spanning the road bears the arms of the
+Knoyles, a monument to whom may be seen in the south aisle of the church
+close by, the tower of which rises picturesquely above the gabled roof
+of the manor-house. The village, the little there is of it, is buried in
+orchards, between which the mill-stream winds, the haunt of a colony of
+quacking ducks whose noisy gossip makes up for the paucity of
+inhabitants.
+
+Some eight miles away, on the other side of Yeovil, there is a
+manor-house, which for picturesqueness must take the palm of even
+Sandford Orcas. This is Brympton D'Eversy, a remarkable mixture of the
+domestic architecture of the fifteenth, sixteenth, and seventeenth
+centuries. One would think that the various styles would not harmonise,
+but they do in a remarkable degree. Add to these the styles of the
+thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, which are conspicuous in portions
+of the adjacent church, and there is indeed a field from which to study.
+The northern front of the mansion, with its embattled Gothic bays and
+rows of latticed windows, is flanked by the quaint little turreted
+church, and together they form a most striking group not only in
+outline, but attractive in colour, for grey-green lichens and the
+peculiar rusty tint of stone blend in perfect sympathy. Picture this
+house and church in crude white stone, unmellowed and toned by time, and
+half its charm would be gone. Does not this open up a question worth
+consideration? A modern house is built with conscientious exactitude in
+imitation of some beautiful existing example of Gothic or Renaissance
+architecture. Every detail is perfect, but the result is harsh and new.
+One must wait almost a lifetime before it makes a picture really
+pleasing to the eye. Therefore why not take some measures to tone down
+the staring stone or obtrusive red-brick before the masonry is
+constructed? True, there are a few exceptions where additions have been
+made to ancient houses, which cannot be detected; but in the case of an
+entirely new house, does it often occur to the builder how much more
+pleasing would be the result if the exterior of his house were more in
+harmony with the old oak fittings and ancient furniture with which it is
+his ambition to fill it? Would that all such houses were built of Ham
+Hill stone, for it has the peculiarity of imparting age much more
+rapidly than any other.
+
+[Illustration: MONTACUTE HOUSE.]
+
+It is this that gives so venerable an appearance to Montacute House;
+for, compared with many mansions coeval with it, the ancestral seat of
+the Phelips family looks quite double the age. The imposing height of
+Montacute as compared, for instance, with Hinton St. George, gives it
+stateliness and grandeur, while the other has none. Like Hardwick, the
+front of the house is one mass of windows; but it has not that formal
+spare appearance, for here there are rounded gables to break the
+outline. In niches between the windows and over the central gable stand
+the stone representations of such varied celebrities as Charlemagne,
+King Arthur, Pompey, Caesar, Alexander the Great, Moses, Joshua, Godfrey
+de Bouillon, and Judas Maccabeus. They look down upon a trim old garden
+walled in by a balustraded and pinnacled enclosure, with Moorish-like
+pavilions or music-rooms at the corners. As a specimen of elaborate
+Elizabethan architecture within and without, Montacute is unique. In
+Nash's _Mansions_ there is a drawing of the western front, which is
+still more elaborate in detail, and is earlier in date than the rest of
+the house; and this may be accounted for as it was added when Clifton
+Maybank (another house of the Phelips') was dismantled many years ago.
+But of this old house there are yet some interesting remains.[22] Inside
+there is a similarity also to Hardwick with its wide stone staircase and
+its ornamental Elizabethan doorways and fireplaces. The hospitality in
+the good old days was in keeping with the lordly appearance of the
+mansion. Over the entrance may still be read the cheery greeting:
+
+  "Through this wide opening gate,
+  None come too early, none return too late."
+
+But in these degenerate days the odds are that advantage would be taken
+of such hospitality; and one marvels at the open-handed generosity such
+as existed at old Bramall Hall in Cheshire, where the common road led
+right through the squire's great hall,[23] where there was always kept a
+plentiful supply of strong ale to cheer the traveller on his way. There
+can have been but few tramps in those days, or they must have been far
+more modest than they are to-day.
+
+[Illustration: MONTACUTE PRIORY.]
+
+Montacute Priory, near the village, has a fine Perpendicular tower and
+other picturesque remains. To see it at its best, one should visit the
+village late in autumn, when the Virginia creeper, which covers the
+ancient walls, has turned to brilliant red. Other buildings under
+similar conditions may look as lovely, but we can recollect nothing to
+equal this old farmstead in its clinging robes of gold and scarlet.
+
+There are many interesting old inns in this part of Somersetshire,
+notably in the town of Yeovil, where the "George" and "Angel" are
+_vis-a-vis_, and can compare notes as to whose recollections go back the
+farthest. The wide open fireplaces and mullioned windows of the former
+are of the time of Elizabeth or earlier, but the stone Gothic arched
+doorway and traceried windows of the latter can go a century better. But
+important as they both have been in their day, neither has had the luck
+or energy to keep pace with the times sufficiently to hold younger
+generations of inns subservient. The old "Green Dragon" at Combe St.
+Nicholas, near Ilminster, possessed a remarkable carved oak settle in
+its bar-parlour. It was elaborately carved, the back being lined with
+the graceful linen-fold panels. At the arm or corner were two figures,
+one suspended over the other, the upper one representing a bishop in the
+act of preaching. They were known as "the parson and clerk"; but when we
+saw the settle the "parson" was missing, having mysteriously disappeared
+some time before. The "clerk" was so worn out, having occupied his post
+so for centuries, that his features were scarcely recognisable; but who
+can wonder when he had been preached to for close upon four hundred
+years! To be "overlooked" in remote parts of Somersetshire means certain
+misfortune. Many a poor unoffending old woman, suspected of
+"overlooking" people, has been knocked on the head that her blood might
+be "drawn" to counteract the spell. Probably the parson's attitude
+aroused suspicion, and he was quietly put away; but as his head had not
+been broken neither had the spell, and the last we heard of the "Green
+Dragon" was that it had been burnt down.
+
+The old landlady we remember had a firm belief that the death of one of
+her sons was foretold by a death's-head moth flying in at the window and
+settling on his forehead when he was asleep in his cradle. The child, a
+beautiful boy, then in perfect health, was doomed, and her eldest son
+immediately set forth with his gun to shoot the first bird he chanced to
+see, to break the spell. However, that night the child died; and upon
+the wall in a glass case was the stuffed bird as well as the moth, a
+melancholy memento of the tragedy of thirty years ago.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[18] See _King Monmouth_.
+
+[19] Illustrations of these relics are in _King Monmouth_.
+
+[20] The open roof of the manor-house, now a cooper's shop, is also
+worth inspection.
+
+[21] See _The Flight of the King_ and _After Worcester Fight_.
+
+[22] See illustration in _King Monmouth_.
+
+[23] This was formerly the case at "Payne's Place," Worcestershire, a
+house mentioned in another chapter.
+
+
+
+
+IN WESTERN SOMERSET
+
+
+Some of the prettiest nooks of old-world "Zoomerzet" are to be found
+under the lovely heather-clad Quantock Hills. The beauty of the scenery
+has inspired Coleridge, Wordsworth, and many famous men, not the least
+of whom was poor Richard Jeffreys, who has written sympathetically of
+the delightful vale to the west of the range.
+
+To the north and north-west of Taunton the churches of Kingston and
+Bishop's Lydeard are both remarkable for their graceful early-Tudor
+towers. Of the two, the former is the finer specimen of Perpendicular
+work, the soft salmon-yellow colour of the Ham stone being particularly
+pleasing to the eye. The situation of the church is fine, commanding
+grand views; and at the intersection of the roads to Asholt and
+Bridgwater one gets a glorious prospect of Taunton and the blue
+Blackdown Hills beyond on one side, and on the other the sea and the
+distant Welsh mountains.
+
+Both churches have good bench-ends full four hundred years old, the
+designs upon them being as clearly cut as if they had been executed only
+a few years ago. One of them at Bishop's Lydeard represents a windmill,
+from which we gather that those useful structures were much the same as
+those with which we are familiar to-day.
+
+At Cothelstone to the north, approached by a romantic winding road
+embosomed in lofty beech trees which dip suddenly down into a
+picturesque dell, the church and manor-house nestle cosily together,
+surrounded by hills and hanging woods. It is a typical Jacobean
+manor-house of stone, with ball-surmounted gables and heavy mullioned
+windows, approached from the road through an imposing archway, with a
+gatehouse beyond containing curious little niches and windows. In the
+gardens an old banqueting-room and ruined summer-house complete the
+picturesque group of buildings. The church has some fine tombs. One of
+the lords of the earlier manor-house reclines full length in Edwardian
+armour, his gauntleted hands bearing a remarkable resemblance to a pair
+of boxing-gloves. A descendant, Sir John Stawel, who fought valiantly
+for Charles in the Civil War, lies also in the church. For his loyalty
+his house was ruined and his estate sold by the Parliament, but his son
+was made a peer by the Merry Monarch in acknowledgment of his father's
+services. "The Lodge," an old landmark at Cothelstone, can boast a view
+of no less than fourteen counties, and from a gap in the Blackdown
+Hills, Halsdown by Exeter may be seen, while close at hand Will's Neck
+looms dark against the sky.
+
+[Illustration: CROWCOMBE.]
+
+[Illustration: OLD HOUSE, CROWCOMBE.]
+
+Beneath the rolling Quantocks the road runs seawards, and at Crowcombe,
+embowered in woods, brings us to another picturesque group: the church
+on one side and a dilapidated Tudor building on the other. It is called
+the "Church House," and, alas! by its ruinous condition one may judge
+its days are numbered, although its solid timber Gothic roof, now open
+to the sky, looks still good for a couple of centuries more. A crazy
+flight of stone steps leads to the upper storey, or rather what remains
+of it, the floor boards having long since disappeared. In the basement,
+nature has asserted itself, and weeds and brambles are growing in
+profusion. This lower part of the building was once used as almshouses,
+the Tudor-headed doors leading into the several apartments. The upper
+storey was the schoolroom, and had a distinct landlord from the
+basement. Difficulties consequently arose; for when the owner of the
+schoolroom suggested restorations to the roof, the proprietor of the
+almshouses declined to participate in the expense, declaring that it was
+his intention to pull his portion of the building down! A more
+striking example of a house divided against itself could not be found,
+hence the forlorn condition of the joint establishment of youth and age.
+
+[Illustration: CROWCOMBE CHURCH.]
+
+There are fine carved bench-ends in the church, one bearing the date
+1534 in Roman figures. Upon another is represented two men in desperate
+combat with a double-headed dragon. In the churchyard there is a cross,
+and facing the village street another, the cross complete, which is
+exceptional.
+
+Crowcombe Court, a stately red-brick house of the latter part of the
+seventeenth century, has replaced the older seat of the Carews. Among
+the fine collection of Vandycks is a full-length of Charles I. and his
+queen, given by the second Charles to the family in acknowledgment of
+their loyalty. Queen Henrietta looks prettier here than in many of her
+portraits. There is also a fine Vandyck of James Stuart, Duke of
+Richmond, and of Lady Herbert, and some of Lely's beauties, including
+Nell Gwynn and the Countess of Falmouth, whose buxom face recalls some
+of de Gramont's liveliest pages.
+
+A few miles to the east of Crowcombe, on the other side of the range of
+hills, is the moated castle of Enmore, whose ponderous drawbridge can
+still be raised and lowered like that at Helmingham. It is a formidable
+barrack-like building of red stone, not of any great antiquity. In the
+earlier structure lived Elizabeth Malet, the handsome young heiress with
+whom the madcap Earl of Rochester ran away. Pepys on May 28, 1665,
+relates "a story of my Lord Rochester's running away on Friday night
+last with Mrs. Mallett, the great beauty of fortune and the north, who
+had supped at Whitehall with Mrs. Stewart, and was going home to her
+lodgings with her grandfather my Lord Haly [Hawley] by coach; and was at
+Charing Cross seized on by both horse and foot men, and forcibly taken
+from him and put into a coach with six horses, and two women provided to
+receive her, and carried away. Upon immediate pursuit, my Lord of
+Rochester (for whom the king had spoken to the lady often, but with no
+success) was taken at Uxbridge; but the lady is not yet heard of, and
+the king mighty angry, and the lord sent to the Tower." As may be
+supposed, with so flighty a husband the pair did not live happily ever
+after.[24]
+
+The Enmore estate passed to Anne, the eldest of their three daughters,
+who married a Baynton of Spye Park near Melksham, where memories of the
+profligate earl linger, as they do at Adderbury.
+
+The famous "Abode" at Spaxton, as impenetrable as Enmore although it has
+no drawbridge, is close at hand. An adjacent hill, locally said to be a
+short cut to heaven, commands a superb view of the surrounding country.
+The original founder of the sect could scarcely have found a prettier
+nook in England.
+
+A few miles to the north-west of Crowcombe is the picturesque village of
+Monksilver, the church of which is rich in oak carvings of the fifteenth
+century. The pulpit and bench-ends are particularly fine, but the screen
+has been much mutilated. There are some grotesque gargoyles, one
+representing a large-mouthed gentleman having his teeth extracted.
+
+[Illustration: COMBE SYDENHAM.]
+
+[Illustration: COMBE SYDENHAM.]
+
+Near Monksilver is the old seat of the Sydenhams, Combe Sydenham, a fine
+old mansion, whose lofty square tower is un-English in appearance. The
+house was built by Sir George Sydenham in 1580, who is locally said
+still to have an unpleasant way of galloping down the glen at midnight.
+Perhaps he is uneasy in his mind about the huge cannon-ball in the hall,
+which he is said to have fired as a sign to his lady-love that he was
+going to follow after and claim her as his bride. There are portraits of
+some bewigged Sydenhams of the following century, the famous doctor,
+perchance, and his soldier brother, Colonel William the Parliamentarian.
+Some rusty old swords hang on the walls, and there is a curious painted
+screen of Charles II.'s time which is sadly in need of repairs. The
+servants' hall, with its open fireplace and tall-backed settle, remains
+much as it has been for two hundred years or more. All these things
+point to the fact that the same family has been in possession for
+generations: at least it was owned by a Sydenham not so many years ago.
+An effigy of Sir George with his two wives (perhaps this is the cause of
+his uneasiness) may be seen in Stogumber church, about a mile away.
+
+At the back of Combe Sydenham are the remains of an old mill. The wheel
+has disappeared, and the waterfall splashing in the streamlet below,
+together with an ancient barn adjacent, form a delightful picture.
+
+To the west is Nettlecombe, a fine old gabled house, dating from the
+latter part of Elizabeth's reign, containing ancestral portraits of the
+Trevelyans and some curious relics, among which is a miniature of
+Charles the martyr worked in his own hair. The estate belonged
+originally to the Raleighs, whose name is retained in Raleigh Down and
+Raleigh's Cross by Brendon Hill.
+
+Elworthy church, to the south-east, commands a fine position, and boasts
+a painted screen bearing the date 1632 and some carved bench-ends. But
+the churchyard looked sadly neglected and weed-grown. The great limb of
+a huge yew tree overhangs the stocks, which we are grateful to observe
+have been restored, and not allowed to decay as those at Crowcombe.
+
+From here we went farther to the south-east in search of a place locally
+called "Golden Farm," or properly Gaulden, where, depicted on a plaster
+ceiling of ancient date, are various scenes from biblical history, from
+the temptation of Adam downwards. Now, whether the good gentleman who
+rents the farm has been besieged by classes for the young anxious to
+learn on the Kindergarten system, or whether the arms of the Turberville
+family that figure upon a mantelpiece has connected the house with a
+certain well-known novel and brought about an American invasion, the
+fact remains that his equanimity has evidently become disturbed. His
+door was closed, and he was proud that he could boast that he had turned
+people away who had come expressly across the Atlantic! Sadly we turned
+away, but with inward congratulations that we had not come quite so far,
+when, lo! the worthy farmer showed signs of relenting. We might come in
+for half a guinea, he said condescendingly. We thanked him kindly and
+declined, observing that the fee at Windsor Castle was more than ten
+times less. 'Tis little wonder that they call it "Golden Farm."
+
+Equidistant from Monksilver to the north-west is Old Cleeve, a pretty
+little village near the coast, whose ruined Cistercian abbey has nooks
+and corners to delight the artist or antiquarian. The grey old
+gatehouse, with a little stream close by, make a delightful picture,
+indeed from every point of view the ancient walls and arches, with their
+farmyard surroundings, form picturesque groups. In one of the walls is a
+huge circular window: the rose window of the sacristy that has lost its
+tracery. Viewed from the interior, the round picture of blue sky and
+meadows gay with buttercups makes a striking contrast with the deep
+shadow within the cold grey walls. A flight of stone steps leads to the
+refectory, whose rounded carved oak roof and projecting figure ornaments
+and bosses are in excellent preservation. There is a great open
+fireplace and the tracery in the windows is intact. A painting in
+distemper on the farther wall represents the Crucifixion, and as far as
+artistic merit is concerned better by far than the colossal figure
+conspicuous in the Roman Catholic cathedral at Westminster.
+
+[Illustration: DUNSTER.]
+
+The road from here to Dunster is delightful, and as you approach the
+quaint old town--for it is a town, difficult as it is to believe it--the
+castle stands high up on the left embosomed in trees, a real fairy-tale
+sort of fortress it appears, with a watch-tower perched up on another
+wooded hill to balance it. The Luttrells have lived here for centuries,
+and during the Civil War it was for long a Royalist stronghold, held by
+Colonel Wyndham, the governor. The gallant colonel's spirited answer to
+the threat of the Parliamentarians to place his aged mother in their
+front ranks to receive the fury of his cannon should he refuse to
+deliver up the castle, is a fine example of loyalty. "If ye doe what you
+threaten," he said, "you doe the most barbarous and villanous act was
+ever done. My mother I honour, but the cause I fight for and the masters
+I serve, are God and the King. Mother, doe you forgive me and give me
+your blessing, and tell the rebells answer for spilling that blood of
+yours which I would save with the loss of mine own, if I had enough for
+both my master and your selfe." But fortunately matters did not come to
+a climax, for Lord Wentworth appeared upon the scene with a strong force
+and relieved the beleaguered garrison. The loyalty of old Lady Wyndham
+and her son was further put to the test a few years afterwards when
+young King Charles lay concealed in their house at Trent near
+Sherborne.[25]
+
+Within the castle there is a curious hiding-place which carries us back
+to those troublous times. Local tradition has connected it in error with
+the visit of the second Charles, whose room is still pointed out; but
+the king was then not a fugitive, otherwise doubtless this secret
+chamber would have proved as useful to him as that at Trent House in
+1651.
+
+The main street of Dunster, with its irregular outline of houses
+climbing up a hill, and the quaintest old market-house at the top backed
+by a dense maze of foliage beyond, is exceedingly picturesque. Judging
+from the hole made by a cannon-ball from the castle in one of the oaken
+beams of this remarkable "yarn market," poor Lady Wyndham had a lucky
+escape. The marvel is the old structure has remained until now in so
+delightful an unrestored condition. It has the colour which age alone
+can impart, a red purple-grey which, contrasted with the background as
+we saw it of laburnum and may, formed a picture long to be remembered.
+The old inn, the "Luttrell Arms," has many points of interest--some fine
+fifteenth-century woodwork, in the courtyard, a carved ceiling, and a
+rich Elizabethan fireplace; but doubtless from the fact that the
+landlord gets too many inquiries about these things, he is tardy in
+showing them. The church has one of the finest carved oak screens of
+Henry VI.'s reign in England, which to our mind looks much better in its
+unpainted state. One has but to go to Carhampton, close by, to make a
+comparison. The paint may be in excellent taste, and like it was
+originally; but when the original paint has gone, is it not best to
+leave the woodwork plain? Under these conditions the screen at least
+looks old, but the fine screen at Carhampton does not. A smaller
+screen in the transept of Dunster church presents yet more bold and
+beautiful design in the carving; and about this and the ancient tombs
+and altar, the bright and intelligent old lady who shows one round has a
+fund of information to impart. She is very proud, and naturally so, of
+the interesting building under her charge. Up a side street is the
+nunnery with its slate-hung front: a lofty, curious building some three
+centuries old or more.
+
+Minehead Church is equally interesting. It stands high up overlooking
+the sea, and commands a magnificent prospect of the hanging-woods of
+Dunster and the heights of Dunkery. The rood-screen is good, but has
+been mutilated in parts. The ancient oak coffer is remarkable for the
+bold relief of its carving, representing the arms of Fitz-James
+quartered with Turberville as it occurs in Bere Regis church.
+
+There is a fine recumbent effigy of a man in robes, said to be a famous
+lawyer named Bracton, although he has much the appearance of a cleric.
+Whether it was considered conclusive proof that the person interred was
+a lawyer from the fact that on being opened the skull revealed a double
+row of upper teeth, we do not know, but there are other evidences. A
+victim of insomnia is said to resemble a lawyer, because he lies on one
+side then turns round and lies on the other; and this is precisely what
+this effigy did. We had the good fortune to fall in with the organist of
+St. Michael, and he declared that he had taken a photograph of the
+worthy in which the figure had _changed its position_, the head being
+where the feet should be--everything else in the picture being precisely
+in its right position!
+
+In the church is one of those quaint little figures which in former
+years was worked by the clock "Jack-smite-the-clock," of which there are
+examples at Southwold, Blythborough, etc. The former rector held the
+living for seventy years, and some trouble was caused because he had
+willed that some of the ancient parish documents were to be interred
+with him robed in his Geneva gown. It is said his wish was duly carried
+out, but the papers were afterwards rescued.
+
+Bossington, on the coast to the north-west of Porlock, is a delightful
+little village, lying at the foot of the great heather-clad hills. The
+rushing stream and the moss and lichen everywhere add much to its
+picturesqueness, but we should imagine there is too much shade and damp
+to be enjoyable in the winter. In the middle of the narrow road stands a
+very ancient walnut tree with twisted limbs and roots, one of many
+walnut trees in the village. There are cosy ancient thatched cottages
+in Porlock, and the "Ship Inn," with its panelled walls, is the most
+inviting of hostelries, but the popular novel _Lorna Doone_ has rather
+spoiled the primitive aspect of the place by introducing some buildings
+out of keeping with the rest.
+
+The weary traveller has a great treat in store, for the view from the
+top of Porlock Hill is remarkable. But it is well worth the climb, and
+by the old road it is indeed a climb! When we were there it was a misty
+day in June, and we never remember so remarkable a prospect as from the
+summit. The brilliant gorse stood out against the varying shades of
+green and purple of the moorland, and below all that could be seen was
+one solid mass of snow-white cloud, the outline of which was sharply
+defined against a distant glimpse of the soft blue sea and the deep blue
+Glamorganshire hills, looking wonderfully like a glacier-field. Next
+morning came the news that in the mist the warship _Montagu_ had run on
+the rocks by Lundy.
+
+The romantic scenery of Lynmouth and Lynton is too well known to call
+for any particular description here. Little wonder that one sees so many
+honeymoon couples wandering everywhere about the lovely lanes. Lovers of
+old oak, too, will find all that they desire at Lynmouth, for here is
+the most tempting antique repository, calculated to make tourist
+collectors of Chippendale and oak wish they had economised more in their
+hotel bills. Motor cars sail easily down into the valley from Porlock,
+but a sudden twist in the steep ascent to Lynton causes many a snort and
+groan accompanied by an extra scent of petrol.
+
+But we have overstepped the county line and are in Devon.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[24] See _Some Beauties of the Seventeenth Century_.
+
+[25] See _Flight of the King_ and _After Worcester Fight_.
+
+
+
+
+IN DEVON AND DORSET
+
+
+Those who have never been to Clovelly can have no idea of its
+quaintness, no matter what descriptions they have read or pictures they
+may have seen. One goes there expecting to find the little place exactly
+as he imagines it to be, and is agreeably surprised to find it is quite
+different. It is so unlike any other place, that one looks back at it
+more as a dream than a real recollection. We do not hint that the
+everlasting climb up and down may be likened to a nightmare. Not a bit
+of it. Though we gasp and sink with fatigue, we have still breath enough
+left in our body to sing in praise. Were the steps more steep and less
+rambling, perhaps we should not be so satisfied. What excellent exercise
+for muscular-leg development. But how about the older part of the
+inhabitants?
+
+We had the honour to converse with the oldest Clovellian, a hale and
+hearty fisherman, who, by no means tardy in introducing himself,
+promptly proceeded to business. For twopence we might take his
+photograph. We thanked him kindly, and having disbursed that sum
+reserved our plates for inanimate curiosities.
+
+It is gratifying to learn that there is no room for "improvement" at
+Clovelly, and there are fewer houses than there used to be.
+Consequently there is nothing new and out of harmony. The cottages are
+really old and quaint, not as we expected to find them, imitations, like
+half the houses in Chester.
+
+Even the "New Inn" is delightfully old, with queer little rooms and
+corners, and little weather-cock figures above the sign, of the time of
+Nelson. It is a novel experience to arrive there in the dusk and
+walk (?) down the High Street to the sea. The most temperate will
+stumble and roll about as if he had sampled the cellar through, and ten
+to one but he doesn't finally take an unexpected header into the sea.
+
+But granted he reaches the end of the little pier (which projects after
+the fashion of the "Cobb" at Lyme Regis), he will find a hundred lights
+from the cottages as if lanterns were hung on the hillside, their long
+reflections rippling in the water.
+
+The place is as much a surprise as ever in broad daylight. One might be
+in Spain or Italy. Donkeys travel up and down the weed-grown cobble
+steps carrying projecting loads balanced on their backs. Indeed, one is
+quite surprised to hear the people speaking English, or rather
+Devonshire, the prettiest dialect. In the daylight the little
+balconied-houses overhanging the sea look more like pigeon-cots nailed
+to the steep rock, and one almost wonders how the inhabitants can get
+in. Long may Clovelly remain as it is now, the quaintest little place in
+England!
+
+[Illustration: CEILING IN THE GOLDEN LION, BARNSTAPLE.]
+
+The town of Barnstaple is an excellent centre for exploration, and the
+antiquity of the "Golden Lion" is a guarantee of comfort. It was a
+mansion of the Earls of Bath, and upon a richly moulded ceiling, with
+enormous pendants of the date of James the First, are depicted biblical
+subjects, including the whole contents of the Ark, or a good proportion
+of it. The spire of the church of SS. Peter and Paul looks quite as out
+of the perpendicular as the spire at Chesterfield. There are some good
+Jacobean tombs, but nothing else in particular.
+
+The aged inmates of the almshouses point out the bullet-marks in their
+oaken door, made when the Royalists fortified the town in 1645. Lord
+Clarendon, who was governor of the town, tells us that here it was
+Prince Charles first received the fatal news of the battle of Naseby.
+The prince had been sent to Barnstaple for security. The house he lodged
+at in the High Street was formerly pointed out, but has disappeared.
+
+The poet Gay was a native of the town, and early in the nineteenth
+century some of his manuscripts were discovered in the secret drawer of
+an old oak chair that had passed from a kinsman on to a dealer in
+antiques who lived in the High Street.
+
+Close to the town is Pilton, whose church is full of interest. The
+carved oak hood of the prior's chair, which dates from Henry VII.'s
+reign, serves the purpose now to support the cover of the font. At the
+side may be seen an iron staple to which in former years the Bible was
+chained. From the fine Gothic stone pulpit projects a painted metal arm
+and hand which holds a Jacobean hour-glass. The screen and parclose
+screen are also good, and the communion rails and table in the vestry
+are of Elizabethan date. The church pewter is also worth notice, as well
+as an old pitch pipe for starting the choir. The porch bears evidence
+that the tower was roughly handled when Fairfax captured Barnstaple in
+1646. The existing tower was built fifty years later.
+
+Nowhere have we seen so fine and perfect a collection of carved oak
+benches as at Braunton, a few miles to the north-west of Pilton. They
+are as firm and solid as when first set up in Henry VII.'s reign, and
+are rich in carvings, as is the graceful wide-spanned roof. One of the
+bosses represents a sow and her litter, who by tradition suggested the
+idea of the holy edifice being erected by Saint Branock. A window
+showing some of this good person's belongings, spoken of in the tenth
+commandment, is mentioned by Leland, but since then possibly some local
+antiquary may have disregarded what is forbidden in that ancient law.
+Presumably there have been attempts also to annex the ruins of the
+patron-saint's chapel, for the villagers pride themselves that all
+attempts to remove them have failed. What an object-lesson to the jerry
+builders of to-day!
+
+Farther to the north-west and we get to Croyde Bay, which perhaps one
+day may have a future on account of its open sea and sands. At present
+it looks in the early transition state.
+
+Tawstock, to the south of Barnstaple, is said to possess the best manor,
+the noblest mansion, the finest church, and the richest rectory in the
+county. Certainly the church could not easily be rivalled (the
+"Westminster of the West," as it is called) in its picturesque position,
+surrounded by hills and woods, with the old gateway of the manor-house,
+the sole remains of the original "Court," flanking the winding road
+which leads down to it: we almost feel justified in adding to these
+superlatives the "handsomest Jacobean tomb, and the most elaborate
+Elizabethan pew," but will not commit ourselves so far. The former, on
+the left-hand side of the altar, is that of the first Earl of Bath
+(Bourchier) and his wife. Above their recumbent effigies is a great
+display of armorial bearings, with sixty-four quarterings hung upon a
+vine, showing the intermarriages of the principal families of England.
+There are many other fine monuments, that of Rachael, the last Countess
+of Bath, who died in Charles II.'s reign, representing a lifelike and
+exceedingly graceful figure in white marble. She was the daughter of
+Francis, Earl of Westmoreland, and married secondly, Lionel, third Earl
+of Middlesex, who predeceased her. The Elizabethan pew of the
+Bourchier-Wrays, lords of the manor, has a canopy, and is richly carved;
+but it was originally of larger dimensions. Close by are some fine
+bench-ends, one of which displays the arms of Henry VII. High aloft is a
+curious Elizabethan oak gallery by which the ringers reach the tower,
+upon which are carvings of the vine pattern, a favourite design in
+Devon. An early effigy in wood must not be forgotten, the recumbent
+figure of a female, supposed to be a Hankford, who brought the Tawstock
+estates into the Bourchiers' possession.
+
+From northern Devonshire let us turn our attention to some nooks in the
+easternmost corner and in the adjoining part of Dorset.
+
+Of all the villages along the coast-line here, Branscombe is the most
+beautiful and old-fashioned. Many of the ancient thatched and
+whitewashed cottages have Tudor doors and windows. Some of the best,
+alas! were condemned as being unsafe some fifteen years ago, among them
+one which in the old smuggling days had many convenient hiding-places
+for that industry, for Branscombe was every bit as notorious as the
+little bay of Beer. The church is, or was not long since, delightfully
+unrestored, for fortunately the good rector is one who does not believe
+in up-to-date things, and the sweeping changes which are rampant in
+places more accessible. It is the sort of comfortable old country church
+that we associate with the early days of David Copperfield or with
+Little Nell. Truly the high box-pews are not loved by antiquarians, but
+is it not better to leave them than replace them with something modern
+and uncomfortable? If the original oak benches of the fifteenth or
+sixteenth centuries could be replaced, that is entirely another matter.
+But they cannot, therefore let those who love old associations not
+banish the Georgian pews without a thought that they also form a link
+with the past. The church is cruciform, and principally of the Early
+English and Early Decorated periods, the old grey tower in the centre
+standing picturesquely out in the beautifully wooded valley. The village
+of Beer is also very charming, and the fisher folk fine types of men. It
+is delightful to watch the little fleet set sail; but in the summer the
+air in the tiny bay is oppressive, and the effluvia of fish somewhat
+overpowering. The extensive caves here have done good service in the
+smuggling days.
+
+[Illustration: BINDON.]
+
+[Illustration: BINDON.]
+
+Another charming village is Axmouth, situated on the river which gives
+its name. Old-fashioned cottages with gay little gardens straggle up the
+hill, down which the clearest of streams runs merrily, affording delight
+to a myriad of ducks who dip and paddle to their hearts' content. The
+church has Norman features, and the tower some quaint projecting
+gargoyles. From the other side of the river at high tide the old church
+and cluster of cottages around it, backed by the graceful slope of
+Hawksdown Hill behind, make a charming picture. High up in the hills,
+through typical Devonshire fern-clad lanes, is Bindon, an interesting
+Tudor house containing a chapel of the fifteenth century. The entrance
+from the road, with its circular stone gateway and gables with latticed
+mullioned-windows peeping over the moss-grown wall, is charming, as are
+also the old farm-buildings at the back, in which an enormous canopied
+well is conspicuous. But more gigantic still is the well at Bovey,
+another Tudor house, near Beer, which bears the reputation of being
+haunted. But with the exception of some gables at the back, Bovey is
+less picturesque than Bindon, owing, perhaps, to the fact that the roof
+has been re-slated.
+
+More interesting are the remains of old Shute House, which lies inland
+some six or seven miles. This was a far more extensive mansion, as will
+be seen by the imposing embattled gateway and a remaining wing, which
+rather remind one of a bit of Haddon. Here during the Monmouth Rebellion
+the Royalist commander Christopher, second Duke of Albemarle, encamped
+on June 18, 1685, the same day that the other duke, the boon companion
+of his wilder days, entered Taunton. The house belonged then, as it does
+still, to the De la Poles.
+
+Most of the old houses hereabouts are associated in some sort of way
+with the rebellion. Close upon the county border to the north-east
+stands Coaxden, a much modernised old farm, where stories are told of
+fugitives from Sedgemoor. How its occupant, Richard Cogan, being
+suspected as a Monmouth adherent, fled from his house to Axminster,
+where in the "Old Green Dragon Inn" the landlord's daughter secreted him
+between a feather-bed and the sacking of a bedstead. Kirke's "lambs"
+traced him to the house, but failed to hit upon his hiding-place. The
+story ends as all such stories should, the girl who preserved his life
+became his wife. The house is further interesting as the birthplace in
+1602 of Sir Symonds D'Ewes the historian.
+
+[Illustration: WYLDE COURT.]
+
+A couple of miles or so to the west is Wylde Court, another interesting
+old farmhouse, much less restored, dating from Elizabeth's reign, with
+numerous pinnacled gable ends and characteristic entrance porch and oak
+panelled rooms. This and Pilsdon, another Tudor house a few miles to the
+west, at the foot of Pilsdon Pen, belonged to the Royalist Wyndhams, and
+in the troublous times they were looked upon with suspicion, and
+searched on one or two occasions by the Parliamentary soldiers.
+"Hellyer's Close," near Wylde Court, is so named because a Royalist
+commander, Colonel Hellyer, was taken prisoner and executed here by
+Cromwell's soldiers. At the time that Charles II., in 1651, attempted to
+get away to France from the coast of Dorset, Pilsdon was visited by a
+party of Cromwellian soldiers, and Sir Hugh Wyndham and his family
+secured in the hall while the house was thoroughly searched, suspicion
+even falling upon one of the ladies that she was the king in
+disguise.[26] Sir Hugh's monument may be seen at Silton in the extreme
+north corner of the county.
+
+Chideock is a charming old-world village in the valley between Charmouth
+and Bridport, snugly perched between the cone-shaped eminence Colmer's
+Hill and Golden Cap, the gorse-covered headland, said to be the highest
+point between Dover and the Land's End. The castle of the De Chideocks
+and Arundells, a famous stronghold built in Richard II.'s reign, long
+since has disappeared, but its moat can be traced. The fine old church
+exteriorly is one of the most picturesque in Dorsetshire, but the inside
+has been much restored and modernised. A handsome tomb of Sir John
+Arundell in armour is in the south aisle.
+
+Longevity seems to be the order of the day round "Golden Cap." At Cold
+Harbour we chatted with a hearty old man enjoying his pipe by his
+cottage door. He was close on eighty; but there was still a generation
+over his head, for his father, evidently to show his son a good example,
+was hard at work digging potatoes in the back garden. We solicited the
+honour to photograph the pair, and asked the elder of the two if he
+would have a pipe. No, he didn't smoke, but he could drink, he said; and
+so, of course, we took the hint, and he with equal promptitude toddled
+up the lane, as digging potatoes at the age of ninety-nine is thirsty
+work.
+
+There is a deep picturesque lane near Chideock called "Skenkzies" which
+at night-time is particularly dark, and held in awe, for there are
+stories of evil spirits lurking about; and little wonder, for close at
+hand is a farmhouse called "Hell!" Old customs and superstitions die
+hard in western Dorset. Forlorn and love-sick maidens as a special
+inducement for their lovers to appear, place their boots at right angles
+to one another in the form of a T upon retiring to roost. The charm is
+said to be irresistible; but there have been cases where it has failed,
+when the size has exceeded "men's eights."
+
+[Illustration: MAPPERTON MANOR-HOUSE.]
+
+[Illustration: MELPLASH COURT.]
+
+To the north-west of Bridport and the south-west of Beaminster are two
+old houses within a couple of miles of one another, the manor-houses of
+Melplash and Mapperton. The former, a plain Elizabethan gabled house, is
+said to have been one of the many residences of Nell Gwyn. Whether the
+old Hall of Parnham, the seat of the Strodes, was honoured by a visit of
+the Merry Monarch we do not know. If so, it is possible Nell may have
+been housed at Melplash. Mapperton is a remarkably picturesque house,
+with projecting bays and a balustraded roof, above which are little
+dormer windows. Part of the house is evidently Jacobean and part dates
+from the reigns of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth, and the combination of
+styles, the niched entrance gates surmounted by eagles, the ornamental
+pinnacles, and the "upping-stock" beside the wall, make a most fantastic
+whole. It was once the seat of the Coker family.
+
+[Illustration: WATERSTONE.]
+
+There are some interesting old mansions within a few miles of
+Dorchester. Wolverton or Wolfeton manor-house, for example, and
+Waterstone and Athelhampton, the last two of which appear in Nash's
+_Mansions_. Each one is entirely different from the other. Waterstone is
+a small late-Elizabethan or early-Jacobean house, with a quaint
+balustraded bay over the entrance porch, and some elaborate and graceful
+stonework upon a projecting gable that stands at right angles to it.
+This presumably was once the principal entrance. It is certainly quite
+unique and somewhat perplexing. At Wiston House in Sussex we remember
+having seen some very elaborate Elizabethan ornamentation upon a gable
+which really had no business there, although the effect was very
+pleasing: and here, perhaps, we have the same sort of thing. Wolverton
+is a fine early-Tudor building with battlemented tower and a stately
+array of lofty mullioned windows, and careful restoration has added to
+its picturesque appearance.
+
+[Illustration: ATHELHAMPTON.]
+
+[Illustration: ATHELHAMPTON.]
+
+[Illustration: ATHELHAMPTON.]
+
+But sympathetic restoration may be seen at its best at Athelhampton. We
+took some photographs many years ago, when it was occupied as a
+farmhouse, and upon a recent visit could scarcely recognise it as the
+same. Not that the house has been much altered exteriorly, but the
+quaint old-fashioned gardens, with pinnacled Elizabethan walls, ancient
+fish-ponds and fountains, have sprung up and matured in a manner that
+had one not seen the gardens as they were, one would scarcely credit it.
+Wonders have been done within as well, and the great hall is very
+different from what it was before the present owner came into
+possession. There are suits of armour and Gothic cabinets to carry us
+back to the days of doublet and trunk-hose and square-toed shoes. Where
+formerly were pigsties is now a terrace walk, and the quaint old
+circular dovecot has been carried off bodily and planted where it
+balances to best advantage. But one thing we should like to see, and
+that is the ancient gatehouse that was standing in Nash's time. There is
+his drawing to go by, and where everything has been done in such
+excellent taste one need have little fear that in a few years a new
+building would settle down harmoniously with the rest.
+
+Close by is Puddletown, a pretty old village with a remarkable church,
+where, as at Athelhampton, everything is in harmony. It is the sort of
+church one reads about in novels, yet so seldom meets; and now we come
+to think of it, this village does figure in a popular Wessex novel.
+Doubtless there are some lovers of ecclesiastical architecture who would
+like to see the Jacobean woodwork cleared out and _modern_ Henry VII.
+benches introduced to make the whole coeval. The towering three-decker
+pulpit is delightful, and so are the ancient pews, and the old gallery
+and staircase leading up to it. Within the Athelhampton chapel are
+mailed effigies, and several ancient brasses to the Martin family who
+originally owned the mansion.
+
+Bere Regis church, some six miles to the east of Puddletown, is also
+remarkable, particularly for its open hammer-beam roof from which
+project huge life-size figures of pilgrims, cardinals, bishops, etc.,
+and monster heads suggestive of the pantomime. The whole is coloured,
+and the effect very rich and strikingly original. One can imagine how
+the younger school-children must be impressed with these awe-inspiring
+figures looking down upon them with steady gaze. There are two fine
+canopied tombs (one containing brasses dated 1596) to the Turburvilles,
+who possessed a moiety of the lordship since the Conquest. Their old
+manor-house, a few miles south at Wool, a red-brick Jacobean gabled
+house with roomy porch in which a great pendant is conspicuous,
+picturesquely situated by an old bridge and the winding reed-grown
+river, has of recent years obtained notoriety by Mr. Thomas Hardy's pen.
+We photographed the old house some years ago before it had been thus
+immortalised. Upon a recent visit we found the house desolate and empty.
+Had the good farmer flown in consequence, and sought an abode that had
+not become a literary landmark?
+
+But the vicinity of Bere Regis had obtained notoriety of a tragic kind
+many centuries before the birth of _Tess of the d'Urbervilles_, for that
+very undesirable lady, Queen Elfrida, retired there for peace and
+quietness after various deeds of darkness, one of which, according to
+the _Annals_ of Ely, is said to have been inserting red-hot nails into
+Abbot Brithnoth's armpits; and from Lytchet Maltravers to the east of
+Bere came Sir John Maltravers to whose tender mercies the unfortunate
+Edward II. was delivered before he was done to death at Berkeley Castle.
+Sir John's monument is in the church; but as it was not the fashion in
+those days to enumerate the various virtues of the departed in laudatory
+verse, this particular act of charity is not recorded in suitable
+effusion.
+
+[Illustration: MONMOUTH'S TREE.]
+
+Wimborne Minster to the north-east is too world-famed to call for any
+particular description here, but a word may be said about the first Free
+Library in the country. In past days, when there was no good Mr.
+Carnegie to cater for the welfare of millions, nor the finest classics
+to be purchased for sixpence, it was only natural, books being rare,
+that the local authorities should not have placed the same implicit
+trust in would-be readers as is shown by the British Museum Library
+authorities. The rusty iron chains securing the aged tomes to an iron
+rod above the queer old desks even after the lapse of centuries would
+hold their own. The literature cannot be said to be of a much lighter
+nature than the bulky volumes in weight. The rarest specimens are placed
+in glass cases, and are calculated to make the mildest bibliomaniac
+full of envy. Before the Reformation the Minster was rich in holy
+relics, conspicuous among which was a part of St Agatha's thigh. One of
+the most curious things still to be seen is a coffin brilliantly painted
+with armorial devices, placed in the niche of a wall, which according to
+the will of the occupant has to be touched up from year to year; and
+thus the memory of the worthy magistrate, Anthony Ettrick, is kept more
+actively alive than good King Ethelred who rests beneath the pavement by
+the altar. Ettrick lived at Holt Lodge near Woodlands, a few miles away
+in the direction of Cranborne; and when the Duke of Monmouth was
+captured in rustic garb in the vicinity, he was brought before the
+magistrate and removed from Holt to Ringwood, where at the "Angel Inn"
+the room in which he was kept prisoner is still pointed out. We have
+elsewhere described the old ash tree near Crowther's Farm beneath which
+the unfortunate fugitive from Sedgemoor was found. It is propped up, and
+has lost a limb, but is alive to-day, and surely should be protected by
+a railing and an inscription like other historic trees. To the north is
+St. Giles, the ancestral home of the Earls of Shaftesbury, the first
+representative of which title, Anthony Ashley Cooper, worked so
+skilfully on Monmouth's ambition. When the Merry Monarch visited the
+noble politician at St. Giles, he little thought that his favourite son
+would be taken a prisoner as a traitor within only a mile or so of the
+mansion. A memento of the royal visit is still preserved in the form of
+a medicine chest that the king left behind, which in those days
+doubtless contained some of his favourite specific "Jesuit drops."
+
+Another historic mansion is Kingston Lacy, to the west of Wimborne,
+the old seat of the Bankes family, which is rich in Stuart portraits
+as well as other valuable works of art. It is a typical square
+comfortable-looking Charles II. house, with dormer-windowed roof and
+wide projecting eaves. The staunch Royalist, James Buder, the great Duke
+of Ormonde, lived here in his latter years, and died here in 1688. The
+duke's intimate friend, Sir Robert Southwell, has left a graphic account
+of the last hours of the good old nobleman, which he concludes with the
+following:--"His Grace could remember some things that passed when he
+was but three years old. He was only four years old when his
+great-great-uncle Earl Thomas died in 1614, but he retained a perfect
+remembrance of him. That Earl lived in the reigns of King Henry the
+Eighth, King Edward the Sixth, Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, and King
+James; and His Grace had seen King James the First, King Charles the
+First, King Charles the Second, and King James the Second; so that
+between them both they were contemporary with nine princes who ruled
+this land!"[27]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[26] See _Flight of the King_.
+
+[27] _Hist., MSS. Com. Rep._ 7 App. p. 758.
+
+
+
+
+HERE AND THERE IN SALOP
+AND STAFFORDSHIRE
+
+
+The important and ancient capital of Salop would indeed be insulted were
+it called a "nook" or "corner." Could it so be named, we might be
+allowed to let our enthusiasm run wild in this most delightful old town.
+Shrewsbury and Tewkesbury are to our mind far more interesting than
+Chester, which has so many imitation old houses to spoil the general
+harmony. At Shrewsbury or Tewkesbury there are very few mock antiques,
+and at every turn and corner there are ancient buildings to carry our
+fancy back to the important historical events that have happened in
+these places. One cannot but be thankful to the local authorities for
+preserving the mediaeval aspect, and let us offer up a solemn prayer that
+the electric tramway fiend may never be permitted to enter.
+
+Chirk Castle is so close upon the boundaries of Salop that we may
+include this corner of Denbighshire. It is the only border fortress of
+Wales still inhabited, and is remarkably situated on an eminence high
+above the grand old trees of the park, or rather forest, surrounding it.
+It has stood many a siege, but its massive external walls look little
+the worse for it. They are of immense thickness, and so wide that two
+people abreast can walk upon the battlements. The huge round towers,
+with deep-set windows and loopholes, have a very formidable appearance
+as you climb the steep ascent from the picturesque vale beneath. It was
+built by the powerful family of Mortimer early in the fourteenth
+century. From the Mortimers and Beauchamps it came into the possession
+of Henry VIII.'s natural son, the Duke of Richmond and Somerset, and to
+Lord Seymour, brother of the Protector Somerset. Then the Earl of
+Leicester owned it in Elizabeth's time, and eventually Sir Thomas
+Myddelton, Lord Mayor in James I.'s reign. His son, Sir Thomas, fought
+valiantly for the Parliamentary side, and in 1644 had to besiege his own
+fortress. A letter from the governor, Sir John Watts, to Prince Rupert,
+which still hangs in the great hall, describes how the owner "attempted
+to worke into the castle with iron crowes and pickers under great
+plancks and tables, which they had erected against the castle side for
+their shelter: but my stones beate them off." In the following year
+Charles I. slept there on two occasions; and it was here that he learned
+the defeat of the great Montrose. After the king's execution, Sir
+Thomas, like many others, began to show favour to the other side; and
+the year before the Restoration he was mixed up in Sir George Booth's
+Cheshire rising, and had to fortify his castle against General Lambert,
+to whom he eventually surrendered. But the general did not depart until
+he had disabled the fortress, and the damage done after the Restoration
+took L30,000 to repair. It was Sir Hugh, the younger brother of the
+first Sir Thomas Myddelton, who made the New River, which was opened on
+Michaelmas Day, 1613. A share in 1633 was valued at L3, 4s. 2d., and in
+1899 one was sold for L125,000!
+
+[Illustration: SERVANT'S HALL, CHIRK CASTLE.]
+
+The various apartments are ranged round a large quadrangle, parts of
+which remind one somewhat of Haddon. On one side is the great hall, and
+opposite the servants' hall. The former, with its minstrels' gallery,
+heraldic glass, and ancient furniture, is full of interest. The walls
+are hung with various pieces of armour, and weapons, and a Cavalier
+drum, saddle, and hat, the latter with its leather travelling case,
+which is probably unique. There is a gorgeous coloured pedigree to the
+first Sir Thomas Myddelton, recording ancestors centuries before, though
+perhaps not quite so far back as the pedigree in the long gallery at
+Hatfield, which is said to go back to Adam.
+
+[Illustration: SERVANTS' HALL, CHIRK CASTLE.]
+
+The servants' hall is a delightful old room, with long black oak tables
+and settles, those against the wall being fixtures to the panelling.
+There is a raised dais, and a seat of state to make distinction at the
+board. There are queer old portraits of ancient retainers, one the
+bellman who used to ring the great bell in the corner turret of the
+quadrangle, and another very jolly looking porter, who has his eye on an
+antique beer barrel perched on wheels in a corner of the room. This
+apparatus has done good service in its day, as have the great pewter
+dishes and copper jugs. Above the wide open fireplace are the Myddelton
+arms. The servants' hall was an orderly apartment:
+
+  "No noise nor strife nor swear at all,
+  But all be decent in the Hall,"
+
+is written up for everybody to see, with the following rules:--That
+every servant must take off his hat at entering; and sit in his proper
+place, and drink in his turn, and refrain from telling tales or speaking
+disrespectfully, and various other things, which misdeeds were to be
+punished in the first instance by the offender being deprived of his
+allowance of beer; for the second offence, three days' beer; and the
+third, a week.
+
+The castle is rich in portraits, especially by Lely and Kneller, many of
+which hang in the oak gallery, which extends the whole length of the
+eastern wing; and there are several fine oak cabinets, one of which, of
+ebony and tortoise-shell with silver chasings, was given to the third
+Sir Thomas Myddelton by the Merry Monarch.
+
+The wrought-iron entrance gates of very elaborate workmanship were made
+in 1719 by the local blacksmith.
+
+At the ancient seat of the Trevors, Brynkinalt, nearer to Chirk village,
+are some interesting portraits of the Stuart period, notably of Charles
+II.; James, Duke of York; Nell Gwyn, the Duchess of Portsmouth, and
+Barbara Villiers.
+
+Chirk village is insignificant, but has a fine church in which are some
+interesting monuments, notably that of the gallant knight who besieged
+his own castle as before described. He and his second wife are
+represented in marble busts. It was their son Charles who married the
+famous beauty of Charles II.'s reign; she was the daughter of Sir Robert
+Needham, and her younger sister, Eleanor, became the Duke of Monmouth's
+mistress. There is an old brick mansion called Plas Baddy, near Ruabon,
+where "La Belle Myddelton" and her husband lived when the diversions of
+the Court proved tedious; but buried in these wilds, she must have felt
+sadly out of her element without the large following of admirers at her
+feet. She had more brains, though, than most Court beauties, and being a
+talented artist, was not entirely dependent upon flattery.
+
+Near the entrance of the Ceiriog valley, to the west of Chirk, is a farm
+called Pontfaen, and beyond, across some meadows, there is a remarkable
+Druidical circle. Gigantic stones are riveted to the crosspieces of
+archways, having the appearance of balancing themselves in a most
+remarkable manner. The entrance to the circle has two pillars in which
+are holes through which was passed a pole to act as wicket; and in front
+of the altar is a rock in which may be seen cavities for the feet, where
+the officiating priest is supposed to have stood. It is secluded,
+solemn, and ghostly, especially by moonlight when we saw it for the
+first time. The villages hereabouts, though picturesquely situated, are
+far from interesting: whitewashed and red-brick cottages of a very plain
+and ordinary type, and very few ancient buildings.
+
+Some of the most picturesque old houses in England are to be found in
+the southern and central part of Salop. Take, for example, Stokesay
+Castle, which is quite unique. A battlemented Early English tower with
+lancet windows and the great hall are the principal remains. The latter,
+entered from above by a primitive wooden staircase, is a noble apartment
+with a fine open timber roof. The exterior has been altered and added to
+at a later period, making a very quaint group of gables, with a
+projecting storey of half-timber of the sixteenth century. This is
+lighted by lattice windows, and the bay or projection is held by timber
+supports from the earlier masonry. It has a deep roof, and the whole
+effect is odd and un-English. Not the least interesting feature is an
+Elizabethan timber gatehouse with carved barge-boards, entrance gate,
+and corner brackets, and the timbers shaped in diamonds and other
+devices. Then there is picturesque Pitchford Hall and Condover close by:
+the former a fine half-timber mansion, the latter a stately Elizabethan
+pile of stone. Pitchford we believe has been very much burnished up and
+considerably enlarged since we were there, but we should not like to see
+it with its new embellishments, for from our recollection of the old
+house, half its charm was owing to the fact that there was nothing
+modern-antique about it: a dear old black-and-white homestead, which
+looked too perfect a picture for the restorer to set to work upon it and
+spoil its poetry; but for all that it may be improved. The courtyard
+presents quite a dazzling arrangement of geometric patterns in the
+timber work, and over the central porch there is a quaint Elizabethan
+gable of wood quite unlike anything we have seen before. The side facing
+the north is, or was, quite a picture for the artist's brush. The
+stately lofty gables of Condover are in striking contrast with the more
+homely looking ones of Pitchford; and the builder was an important
+person in his day, as may be judged from his elaborate effigy in
+Westminster Abbey, namely, Judge Owen, who claimed descent from one of
+the ancient Welsh kings. Like most Elizabethan houses, Condover Hall is
+built in the form of a letter E, but the central compartment was
+probably added to later on by Inigo Jones. The doorway and bay-windows
+above are of fine proportions, and full of dignity.
+
+At Eaton Constantine, to the east, is the quaint old timber house where
+Richard Baxter lived; and at Langley, to the south-east, a fine old
+timber gatehouse; as well as Plash Hall, famous for its elaborate
+twisted chimneys. Then there is Ludlow with its ruined castle, where
+poor young Edward V. was proclaimed king before he set out for London:
+and its famous "Feathers" hostelry with black-oak panelled rooms, its
+old town-gate, and the ancient bridge of Ludford to the south. The
+country between Ludlow and Shrewsbury is remarkably beautiful,
+especially in the vicinity of Church Stretton, which of recent years has
+grown rabidly as a health resort, meaning, of course, the springing up
+of modern dwellings to mar its old-world snugness.
+
+There is, or was some twenty years ago, a narrow street of old houses,
+behind which, backed by beautiful woods, stood the manor-house, long
+since converted into an inn, and the church. Beyond the woods rise a
+range of lofty hills; and if we take the trouble to clamber up to the
+highest peak (which rises to upwards of 1600 feet), we are well rewarded
+for our pains. Two of the highest points are Caradoc and Lawley, famous
+landmarks for miles around. The "Raven," when we visited it, was a
+quaint old hostelry, and an ideal place to make headquarters for
+exploring the romantic scenery all around.
+
+At the pretty little village of Winnington, close upon the county
+border, and fourteen miles as the crow flies to the north-west of Church
+Stretton, stands a tiny little cottage at the foot of the Briedden
+Hills. Here lived the famous old Parr, who was born there in the reign
+of Edward IV. and died in that of Charles I., having lived in the reigns
+of no less than ten monarchs. In his hundred and fifty-second year he
+went to London for change of air, which unfortunately proved fatal. His
+gravestone in Westminster Abbey will be remembered near Saint-Evremond's
+and Chiffinch's, near the Poets' Corner.
+
+[Illustration: MARKET DRAYTON.]
+
+[Illustration: MARKET DRAYTON.]
+
+The quiet little town of Market Drayton, some eighteen miles to the
+north-east of Shrewsbury, contains many interesting timber houses. There
+is still an old-fashioned air about the place of which the footsore
+pedestrian stumbling over the cobble stones soon becomes conscious. The
+quaint overhanging gables in the narrow streets are rich with ornamental
+carvings. One long range of buildings at the corner of Shropshire and
+Cheshire Streets is a fine specimen of "magpie" architecture. Let us
+hope the row of antiquated shops on the basement will remain content
+with their limited space; for so far those imposing modern structures,
+which have a way of throwing everything out of harmony, are conspicuous
+by their absence. Nor has the demon electric tram come to destroy this
+quiet peaceful corner of Salop, as, alas! it has to so many of our old
+towns. One dreads to think what England will be like in another fifty
+years. Farther along Shropshire Street we find a little antiquated inn,
+the "Dun Cow," with great timber beams and thick thatch roof, and the
+"King's Arms" opposite bearing the date 1674 upon the gable abutting
+upon the roof, which does not say much for the sobriety of the person
+who set it up. Hard by is a good Queen Anne house standing a little
+back, as if it didn't like to associate with such neighbours. It looked
+deserted, and was "To Let"; and we couldn't help thinking how this
+compact little house would be picked up were it only situated in
+Kensington or Hampstead.
+
+The church, an imposing building finely situated, is disappointing,
+though there is some good Norman work about it. It has been reseated,
+and the only thing worth noting is an old tomb showing the quaint female
+costume of Elizabeth's day, and a tall-backed oak settle facing the
+communion table. The latter looks as if it ought to be facing an open
+fireplace in some manorial farm.
+
+Many superstitions linger hereabouts. The old people can recollect the
+dread in which a certain road was held at night for fear of a ghostly
+lady, who had an unpleasant way of jumping upon the backs of the farmers
+as they returned from market. Tradition does not record whether those
+who were thus favoured were total abstainers; possibly not, for the lady
+by all accounts had a grudge against those who occasionally took a
+glass; and in a certain inn cellar, when jugs had to be replenished, it
+was discomforting to find her seated on the particular barrel required,
+like the goblin seen by Gabriel Grub upon the tombstone.
+
+There was a custom among the old Draytonites for some reason, not to
+permit their aged to die on a feather-bed. It was believed to make them
+die hard, and so _in extremis_ it was dragged from beneath the
+unfortunate person. The sovereign remedy they had for whooping-cough is
+worth remembering, as it is so simple. All you have to do is to cut some
+hair from the nape of the invalid child's neck, place it between a piece
+of bread and butter, and hand the sandwich to a dog. If he devours it
+the malady is cured; if he doesn't, well, the life of the dog at least
+is spared.
+
+A few miles to the east of the town, in the adjoining county, is the
+famous battlefield of Bloreheath, where the Houses of Lancaster and
+York fought desperately in 1459. The latter under the Earl of
+Salisbury came off victorious, while the commander of Henry's forces was
+slain. A stone pedestal marks the spot, originally distinguished by a
+wooden cross, where Lord Audley fell.
+
+Of less historical moment but more romantic interest, is the fact that
+here close upon a couple of centuries later the diamond George of
+Charles II. was concealed, while its royal wearer by right was lurking
+fifteen miles away at Boscobel. The gallant Colonel Blague, who had had
+the charge of this tell-tale treasure, was captured and thrown into the
+Tower, where no less a celebrity than peaceful Isaak Walton managed to
+smuggle it. Blague eventually escaped, and so the George found its way
+to the king in France. At Blore also Buckingham remained concealed,
+disguised as a labourer, before he got away into Leicestershire and
+thence to London and the coast. "Buckingham's hole," the cave where his
+grace was hidden, is still pointed out; and a very aged man who lived in
+the neighbourhood a few years ago prided himself that he could show the
+exact place where the duke fell and broke his arm; and he ought to have
+known, as his great-grandfather was personally acquainted with "old
+Elias Bradshaw," who was present when the accident happened.
+
+Broughton Hall, a fine old Jacobean mansion, stands to the east of
+Blore. It is a gloomy house, and has some ghostly traditions. We are
+reminded of the rather startling fact that upon developing a negative of
+the fine oak staircase there, the transparent figure of an old woman in
+a mob-cap stood in the foreground! Here was proof positive for the
+Psychological Society. But, alas! careful investigation upset the
+mystery. The shadowy outline proved to be painfully like the ancient
+housekeeper. The subject had required a long exposure, and the lady must
+have wished to be immortalised, for she certainly must have stood in
+front of the lens for at least a minute or so. It is strange this desire
+to be pictured. Any amateur photographer must have experienced the
+difficulties to be encountered in a village street. The hours of twelve
+and four are fatal. School children in thousands will crop up to fill up
+the foreground. In such a predicament a friend of ours was inspired with
+an ingenious remedy. Having covered his head with the black cloth, he
+was horrified to see a myriad of faces instead of the subject he wished
+to take. However, he got his focus adjusted somehow, and having placed
+his dark slide in position ready for exposure, he placed the cloth over
+the lens-end of the camera as if focussing in the opposite direction.
+Immediately there was a stampede for the other side, with considerable
+struggling as to who should be foremost. The cherished little bit of
+village architecture was now free, the cloth whipped away, and the
+exposure given. "Are we all taken in, mister?" asked one of the boys a
+little suspiciously. "Yes, my lads," was the response given, "you've all
+been taken in." And so they had, but went home rejoicing.
+
+Beside the staircase, there is little of interest inside Broughton.
+There was a hiding-place once in one of the rooms which was screened by
+an old oil painting, but it is now merged into tradition. The road from
+Newport passes through wild and romantic scenery. At Croxton, farther to
+the east, there is, or was, a Maypole, one of those old-world villages
+where ancient customs die hard. Swinnerton Hall, a fine Queen Anne house
+to the north-east, and nearer to Stone, is the seat of the ancient
+family of Fitzherbert, the beautiful widow of one of whose members was
+in 1785 married to the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV.
+
+The palatial Hall of Trentham, farther to the north, is rather beyond
+our province, being in the main modern. One grieves that the fine old
+house represented in Dr. Plot's quaint history of the county has passed
+away; one grieves, indeed, that so many of these fine Staffordshire
+houses are no more. The irreparable loss of Ingestre Hall, Wrothesley
+Hall, Enville Hall, and of Severn End in the adjoining county, makes one
+shudder at the dangers of fire in these ancestral mansions. Coombe
+Abbey in Warwickshire was only quite recently saved from a like fate by
+Lord Craven's activity and presence of mind.
+
+But the old gatehouse of Tixall to the east of Stafford, and Wootton
+Lodge to the north of Uttoxeter, fortunately still remain intact. The
+former presents much the same appearance as in Plot's drawing of 1686,
+but the curious gabled timber mansion beyond has long since disappeared,
+and the classic building that occupies its site looks hardly in keeping
+with so perfect an example of Elizabethan architecture. The romantic
+situation of Wootton Lodge is well described by Howitt. The majestic
+early-Jacobean mansion (the work of Inigo Jones) has a compactness and
+dignity quite its own, and there is nothing like it anywhere in England,
+though more classic, perhaps, than the majority of houses of its period.
+It has a battlemented roof surmounted by an array of massive chimneys,
+mullioned windows innumerable, and a graceful flight of steps leading to
+the ornamental porch. It was not at this stately house that the
+eccentric Jean Jacques came to bury himself for over a year, but at the
+Hall, a far less picturesque building. The philosopher and his companion
+Theresa le Vasseur were looked at askance by the country folk; and "old
+Ross Hall," as they called him, botanising in the secluded lanes in his
+strange striped robe and grotesque velvet cap with gold tassels and
+pendant, was a holy terror to the children. It was supposed he was in
+search of "lost spirits," as indeed was the case, for his melancholia at
+length led to his departure under the suspicion that there was a plot to
+poison him.
+
+A bee-line drawn across Staffordshire, say from Bridgnorth in Salop to
+Haddon in Derbyshire, would intersect some of the most interesting
+spots. In addition to Wootton and Ingestre, we have Throwley Hall,
+Croxden and Calwich Abbeys, and Tissington (in Derbyshire) to the
+north-east (not to mention Alton and Ham), and Boscobel, Whiteladies,
+Tong, etc., to the south-east.
+
+Of Boscobel and Whiteladies we have dealt with elsewhere too
+particularly to call for any fresh description here; but not so with the
+picturesque village of Tong, whose church is certainly the most
+interesting example of early-Perpendicular architecture in the county.
+Would that the interiors of our old churches were as carefully preserved
+as is the case here. There is nothing modern and out of harmony. The
+rich oak carvings of the screens and choir stalls; the monumental
+effigies of the Pembrugges, Pierrepoints, Vernons, and Stanleys; the
+Golden Chapel, or Vernon chantry--all recall nooks and corners in
+Westminster Abbey. It was Sir Edward Stanley, whose recumbent effigy in
+plate armour is conspicuous, who married Margaret Vernon, the sister of
+the runaway heiress of Haddon, and thus inherited Tong Castle, as his
+brother-in-law did the famous Derbyshire estate.
+
+The early-Tudor castle was demolished in the eighteenth century, when
+the present Strawberry-Hill Gothic fortress of reddish-coloured stone
+was erected by a descendant of the Richard Durant whose initials may
+still be seen on the old house in the Corn Market at Worcester, where
+Charles II. lodged before the disastrous battle.[28] Unromantic as were
+Georgian squires, as a rule, the Eastern Gothic architecture of their
+houses and the fantastic and unnatural grottoes in their grounds show
+signs of sentimental hankering. At Tong they went one better, for there
+are traditions of AEolian harps set in the masonry of the farmyard of the
+castle. The mystic music must indeed have been thrown unto the winds!
+
+But the Moorish-looking mansion, if architecturally somewhat a
+monstrosity, is nevertheless picturesque, with its domed roofs and
+pinnacles. A fine collection of pictures was dispersed in 1870,
+including an interesting portrait of Nell Gwyn, and of Charles I., which
+has been engraved.
+
+In the older building (which somewhat resembled old Hendlip Hall) was
+born the famous seventeenth-century beauty, Lady Venetia Digby, _nee_
+Stanley, of whom Vandyck has left us many portraits, notably the one at
+Windsor Castle,--an allegorical picture representing the triumph of
+innocence over calumny, for she certainly was a lady with "a past." The
+learned and eccentric Sir Kenelm Digby, her husband, endeavoured to
+preserve her charms by administering curious mixtures, such as viper
+wine; and this, though it was very well meant, probably ended her career
+before she was thirty-three. One can scarcely be surprised that at the
+post-mortem examination they discovered but very little brains; but this
+her husband attributed to his viper wine getting into her head!
+
+Not far from Tong, in a secluded lane, is a tiny cottage called Hobbal
+Grange, which is associated with the wanderings of Charles II. when a
+fugitive from Worcester. Here lived the mother of the loyal Penderel
+brothers, who risked their lives in harbouring their illustrious guest.
+We mention Hobbal more particularly as since the _Flight of the King_
+was written we have had it pointed out pretty conclusively that "the
+Grange" of to-day is only a small portion of the original "Grange Farm"
+converted into a labourer's dwelling. The greater part of the original
+house was pulled down in the eighteenth century. In an old plan, dated
+1739, of which we have a tracing before us, there are no less than seven
+buildings comprising the farm, which was the largest on the Tong estate.
+In 1855 it was reduced to eighty-six acres. In 1716, Richard Penderel's
+grandson, John Rogers, was still in residence at Hobbal.
+
+[Illustration: BLACKLADIES.]
+
+Near Whiteladies is the rival establishment Blackladies, a picturesque
+red-brick house with step-gables and mullioned bays. As the name
+implies, this also was a nunnery, but there are but scanty remains of
+the original building. There is a stone cross, and some other fragments
+are built into the masonry; and in the stables may be seen the chapel,
+where services were held until sixty years ago. Part of the moat also
+remains. A lane near at hand is still known as "Spirit Lane," because
+the Black Nuns of centuries ago have been seen to walk there.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[28] See _Flight of the King_.
+
+
+
+
+IN NORTHERN DERBYSHIRE
+
+
+Our first impression of romantic Derbyshire vividly recalled one of the
+opening chapters of _Adam Bede_. Having secured lodgings at a pretty
+village not many miles from Haddon, we were somewhat disturbed with
+nocturnal hammerings issuing from an adjacent wheelwright's. Somebody
+had had the misfortune to fall into the river and was drowned, so we
+learned in the morning, and the rest we could guess. Somewhat depressed,
+we were on the point of sallying forth when the local policeman arrived
+and demanded our presence at the inquest, as one of the jurymen had
+failed to put in an appearance. A cheerful beginning to a holiday!
+
+[Illustration: GREAT HALL, HADDON.]
+
+[Illustration: GREAT HALL, HADDON.]
+
+There is something about dear old Haddon Hall that makes it quite
+unique, and few ancient baronial dwellings are so rich in the poetry of
+association. In the first place, though a show house, one is not
+admitted by one door and ejected from another with a jumbled idea of
+what we have seen and an undigested store of historical information. One
+forgets it is a show place at all. It is more like the enchanted castle
+of the fairy story, where the occupants have been asleep for centuries;
+and in passing through the grand old rooms one would scarcely be
+surprised to encounter people in mediaeval costume, or knights in
+clanking armour. The lovers of historical romance for once will find
+pictures of their imagination realised. They can fit in favourite scenes
+and characters with no fear of stumbling across modern "improvements"
+to destroy the illusion and bring them back to the twentieth century.
+Compare the time-worn grey old walls of this baronial house with those
+of Windsor Castle, and one will see the havoc that has been done to the
+latter by centuries of restoration. Events that have happened at Haddon
+appear to us real; but at Windsor, so full of historic memories, there
+is but little to assist the imagination.
+
+[Illustration: COURTYARD, HADDON.]
+
+The picturesqueness of Haddon is enhanced by its lack of uniformity. The
+rooms and courtyards and gardens are all on different levels, and we are
+continually climbing up or down stairs. The first ascent to the great
+entrance gate is precipitous, and some of the stone steps are almost
+worn away with use. Entering the first courtyard (there are two, with
+buildings around each) there is another ascent, with a quaint external
+staircase beyond, leading to the State apartments, and to the left again
+there are steps by which the entrance of the banqueting-hall is reached.
+
+Opposite is the chapel, with its panelled, balustraded pews and
+two-decker Jacobean pulpit, which is very picturesque; and the second
+courtyard beyond, to the south of which is the Long Gallery or ballroom,
+with bay-windows looking upon the upper garden, from which ascend those
+well-known and much photographed balustraded stone steps to the shaded
+terrace-walk and winter garden, above which, and approached by another
+flight of steps, is Dorothy Vernon's Walk, a romantic avenue of lime and
+sycamore. Facing the steps and screened by a great yew tree is yet
+another flight, with ball-surmounted pillars, leading to the "Lord's
+Parlour," or Orange Parlour as it was formerly called; and from this
+picturesque exit the Haddon heiress eloped with the gallant John
+Manners, and by so doing brought the noble estate into the possession of
+the Dukes of Rutland.
+
+An elaborately carved Elizabethan doorway leads here from the ballroom,
+which is rich in carved oak panelling and has a coved ceiling bearing
+the arms and crest of the Manners and Vernons. By repute, all the
+woodwork, including the circular oak steps leading to the apartment, was
+cut from a single tree in the park. The ash-grey colour of the wood is
+caused by a light coat of distemper, which it has been surmised was
+added at some time to give it the appearance of cedar. Not many years
+ago there was a controversy upon this subject, which resulted in some
+ill-advised person obtaining leave to anoint a portion of the panelling
+with boiled oil. The result was disastrous, and led to an indignant
+outcry from artists and architects; but fortunately the act of vandalism
+was stopped in time, and the muddy substance removed. The wainscoting
+consists of a series of semicircular arches divided by fluted and
+ornamental pillars of different heights and sizes, the smaller panels
+being surmounted by the shields of arms and crests of the ancient owners
+of the Hall, above which is a bold turreted and battlemented cornice.
+
+[Illustration: DRAWING-ROOM, HADDON.]
+
+[Illustration: WITHDRAWING ROOM, HADDON.]
+
+[Illustration: WITHDRAWING ROOM, HADDON.]
+
+The old banqueting-hall is rather cosier looking than the famous hall of
+Penshurst. The narrow, long oak table with its rustic settle is somewhat
+similar, but later in character than those at Penshurst, and has a
+grotesque arrangement of projecting feet. The hall is all nooks and
+corners. Below a projecting gallery is a recess for the wide
+well-staircase, with its little gates to keep the dogs downstairs, and a
+lattice-paned window lighting up the uneven lines of the floor. The
+walls are panelled, and there is a wide open fireplace, and the screen
+has Gothic carvings. Attached to the framework is an iron bracelet, to
+enforce the duty of a man drinking his due portion in the good old days.
+The penalty was before him, so should he fail, he knew his lot, namely,
+to have the contents of the capacious black jack emptied down his
+sleeve. The withdrawing-room to the south of the hall is richly
+wainscoted in carved oak, with a recessed window containing a fixed
+settle and a step leading down to a genuine cosy-corner. There are some
+who believe our ancestors had no idea of comfort; but picture this fine
+old room in the winter, with blazing logs upon the fantastic fire-dogs,
+the warm red light playing upon the various armorial carvings of the
+frieze, and the quaint little oriel window half-cast in shadow. The
+apartment immediately above has a still more elaborate frieze of
+ornamental plaster above the rich tapestry hangings, and the bay-window
+in the wainscoted recess, like that beneath, looks upon the gardens,
+with the graceful terrace on the left and the winding Wye and venerable
+bridge below. The circular brass fire-dogs are remarkable.[29] The
+"Earl's Bedchamber" and "Dressing-Room" and the "Lady's Dressing-Room"
+have tapestried walls and snug recessed windows. The "State Bedroom" was
+formerly the "Blue Drawing-room." This also is hung with tapestry, and
+the recessed window has a heavy ornamental frieze above. Near the lofty
+plumed bedstead, with green silk-velvet hangings, is a queer old cradle,
+which formerly was in the chaplain's room on the right-hand side of the
+entrance gate. But to describe the numerous rooms in detail would be
+tedious. Everything is on a huge and ponderous scale in the kitchens and
+offices; one is almost reminded of the giant's kitchen in the pantomime.
+Among the curious and obsolete instruments one encounters here and
+there, there is a wooden instrument like a colossal boot-jack for
+stringing bows. It stands against the wall as if it were in daily use.
+Though there is some good old furniture, one would wish to see the rooms
+less bare. But let us turn to the famous Belvoir manuscripts, which not
+so very long ago were discovered much rat-eaten in a loft of that
+historic seat of the Earls of Rutland. It is interesting after a visit
+to Haddon to dip into these papers and get some idea of what the old
+Hall was like in its most flourishing days. The great bare ballroom must
+have looked very grand in the days of Charles I., with the coved ceiling
+brilliant with paint and gilt. In addition to a "gilded organ," were two
+"harpsicalls" and a "viall chest with a bandora and vialls; a
+shovel-board table on tressels; a large looking-glass of seventy-two
+glasses, and four pictures of shepherds and shepherdesses." Sixteen
+suits of armour adorned the screen of the great hall. The massive oaken
+tables and cabinets displayed a wealth of silver and gilt plate,
+including a "greate quilte doble sault with a peacock" (the crest of the
+Manners) "on the top"; silver basins, ewers, and drinking bowls; a
+warming-pan, two little boats; four porringers with spoons for the
+children, a "maudlin" cup and cover, etc.
+
+[Illustration: DOORWAY, HADDON.]
+
+[Illustration: INTERIOR COURTYARD, HADDON.]
+
+Among the rooms were the "Green Chamber," the "Rose Chamber," the "Great
+Chamber," the "Best Lodging," the "Hunters' Chamber," the "School-house
+Chamber," the "Nursery," the "Smoothing Chamber," the "Partridge
+Chamber," "Windsor," the "Little Gallery," etc. "The uppermost chamber
+in the nether tower" is almost suggestive of something gruesome, while
+"my mistress's sweetmeat closet" sounds tempting; and a list of contents
+included things to make the juvenile palate water--"Glasses of apricots,
+marmalett, and currants, cherry marmalett, dried pears and plums and
+apricots, preserved and grated oranges, raspberry and currant cakes,
+conserved roses, syrup of violets," etc. These things perhaps are
+trivial, but there is a domesticity about them by which we may think of
+Haddon as a country home as well as a historic building.
+
+[Illustration: GREAT HALL, HADDON.]
+
+Haddon ceased to be a residence of the Dukes of Rutland more than a
+century ago. In the days of the Merry Monarch the ninth earl kept open
+house in a very lavish style. It is said the servants alone amounted to
+one hundred and forty; and capacious as are the ancient walls, it is a
+marvel how they all were housed. The romantic Dorothy, who a century
+before ran away upon the evening of a great ball, was the daughter of
+the "King of the Peak," Sir George Vernon, thus nicknamed for his lordly
+and open-handed way of living. She died in 1584, and Sir George Manners,
+the eldest of her four children, sided with the Parliament during the
+Civil Wars. But his mode of living was by no means puritanical, and
+Haddon was kept up in its traditional lavish style. In Bakewell church
+there is a fine marble tomb representing him and his wife and children,
+as well as the tomb of the famous Dorothy and her husband, Sir John
+Manners. The family crest, a Peacock in his pride, that is, with his
+tail displayed, so conspicuous with the Vernon boar's head in the
+panelling and parqueting of Haddon, gives its name to the most
+delightful of ancient hostelries at Rowsley. The proximity of the
+mansion must have made its fortune over and over again, apart from its
+piscatorial attractions. The gable ends and latticed windows, and the
+ivy-grown battlemented porch and trim gardens, are irresistible, and no
+one could wish for quarters more in harmony with the old baronial Hall.
+
+In striking contrast to the sturdy ruggedness of hoary Haddon is
+princely Chatsworth. The comparison may be likened to that between a
+mediaeval knight and a gorgeous cavalier. The art treasures and sumptuous
+magnificence of Chatsworth, the elaborate and graceful carvings (which
+by the way are not nearly all by the hand of Gibbons, but by a local man
+named Samuel Watson), and the beauty of the gardens, make it rightly
+named the "Palace of the Peak." But it is its association with the
+luckless Mary Queen of Scots which adds romantic interest to the
+mansion,--not that the existing classical structure can claim that
+honour, for nothing now remains of the older building, a battlemented
+Tudor structure with an entrance like the gatehouse of Kenilworth
+Castle, and a "gazebo" on either side of the western front. It is odd,
+however, that Lord Burleigh should have selected it as "a mete house for
+good preservation" of a prisoner "having no toure of resort wher any
+ambushes might lye," for there were no less than eight towers, but
+presumably not the kind the Lord High Treasurer meant. During her twelve
+years' captivity in Sheffield (where, by the way, "Queen Mary's
+Chamber," with its curious heraldic ceiling, may still be seen in the
+manor-house), she was frequently at Chatsworth and Wingfield Manor under
+the guardianship of George Talbot, sixth Earl of Shrewsbury, the fourth
+husband of that remarkable woman, Bess of Hardwick, who was not a little
+jealous of her husband's fascinating captive, and circulated various
+scandalous stories, about which the Earl thought fit to justify himself
+in his own epitaph in St Peter's church, Sheffield. When the important
+prisoner was under his custody in that town, she was not permitted to go
+beyond the courtyard, and usually took her exercise upon the leads. But
+at Chatsworth her surveillance was less strict, although truly John
+Beaton, the master of her household (who predeceased his mistress, and
+was buried at Edensor close by, where a brass to his memory remains),
+had strict instructions regarding her. Her attendants, thirty-nine in
+all, were none of them allowed to go beyond the precincts of the grounds
+without special permission, nor was anybody allowed to wait upon the
+queen between nine o'clock at night and six in the morning. None were
+sanctioned to carry arms; and when the fair prisoner wished to take the
+air, Lord Shrewsbury had to be informed an hour beforehand, that he and
+his staff might be upon the alert. One can picture Mary and her maids of
+honour engaged in needlework upon the picturesque moated and balustraded
+stone "Bower" near the river, with guards around ever on the watch. This
+and the old Hunting-tower high up among the trees, a massive structure
+with round Elizabethan towers, are the only remains to take us back to
+the days of the Scots queen's captivity.
+
+To see Chatsworth to perfection it should be visited when the wooded
+heights in the background are rich in their autumnal colouring. The
+approach from Beeley village through the park and along the bank of the
+Derwent at this season of the year, and the view from the house and
+avenues of the river and park, are particularly beautiful. The elaborate
+waterworks recall the days of the grand monarque, and an _al fresco_
+shower-bath may be enjoyed beneath a copper willow tree, the kind of
+practical joke that was popular in the old Spring Gardens in London in
+Charles II.'s time. In addition to the splendid paintings, are numerous
+sketches by Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, etc., which came from the
+famous forty days' sale of 1682, when the works collected by Sir Peter
+Lely were dispersed.
+
+Of the stately mansions erected by Bess of Hardwick, the building
+Countess of Shrewsbury,--Chatsworth, Oldcotes, Hardwick, Bolsover, and
+Worksop,--Hardwick is the most untouched and perfect. The last remaining
+bit of the older Chatsworth House was removed just a century after
+Bess's death, so the present building must not be associated with her
+name, nor indeed can any rooms at Hardwick have been occupied by Mary
+Queen of Scots, as is sometimes stated, for the house was not begun
+until after her death. If the queen was ever at Hardwick, it was in the
+older mansion, of which very considerable ruins remain. The error, of
+course, arises from one of the rooms at Hardwick being named "Mary Queen
+of Scots' room," which contains the bed and furniture from the room she
+occupied at Chatsworth; and the velvet hangings of the bed bearing her
+monogram, and the rich coverlet, are indeed in her own needlework.
+
+Bess of Hardwick in many respects was like her namesake the
+strong-minded queen; and when her fourth better-half had gained his
+experience and sought sympathy from the Bishop of Lichfield, he received
+the following consoling reply: "Some will say in yor L. behalfe tho'
+the Countesse is a sharpe and bitter shrewe, and, therefore, licke
+enough to shorten yr life, if shee shulde kepe you company. Indede, my
+good Lo. I have heard some say so; but if shrewdnesse or sharpnesse may
+be a just cause of sep[ar]acon betweene a man and wiefe, I thinke fewe
+men in Englande woulde keepe their wiefes longe; for it is a common
+jeste, yet treue in some sense, that there is but one shrewe in all the
+worlde, and evy man bathe her; and so evy man might be rydd of his wife,
+that wolde be rydd of a shrewe." But with all her faults the existence
+of Hardwick and Bolsover alone will cover a multitude of sins. A
+fortune-teller predicted that so long as she kept building she would
+never die; and had not the severity of the winter of 1607 thrown her
+masons out of employment, her ladyship might have survived to show us
+what she could do with the vacant space at Aldwych.
+
+[Illustration: HARDWICK HALL.]
+
+There is something peculiarly majestic and stately about Hardwick Hall.
+It is one mass of lofty windows. It is rarely occupied as a dwelling,
+and one would like to see it lighted up like Chatsworth at Christmas
+time. But with the setting sun shining on the windows it looks a blaze
+of light--a huge beacon in the distance. With the exception of the
+ornamental stone parapet of the roofs, in which Bess' initials "E.S."
+stand out conspicuously, the mansion is all horizontal and perpendicular
+lines; but the regularity is relieved by the broken outline of the
+garden walls, with their picturesque array of tall halberd-like
+pinnacles.
+
+Like Knole and Ham House, the interior is untouched, and every room is
+in the same condition since the time of its erection. Some of the
+wonderful old furniture came from the older Chatsworth House, including,
+as before stated, the bedroom furniture of Mary Queen of Scots. Nowhere
+in England may be seen finer tapestries than at Hardwick; they give a
+wealth of colour to the interior, and in the Presence-chamber the
+parget-work in high relief is also richly coloured. Here is Queen
+Elizabeth's State chair overhung by a canopy, and the Royal arms and
+supporters are depicted on the pargeting. The tapestries lining the
+walls of the grand stone staircase are superb, and the silk needlework
+tapestry in some of the smaller rooms a feast of colour. Everywhere are
+the grandest old cushioned chairs and settees, and inlaid cabinets and
+tables. The picture-gallery extends the entire length of the house, and
+abounds in historical portraits, including Bess of Hardwick dressed in
+black, perhaps for one of her many husbands, with a black head-dress,
+large ruff, and chain of pearls. Here also is a full-length portrait of
+her rival, the luckless queen, very sad and very pale, painted, during
+her nineteen years of captivity, at Sheffield in 1678, and a portrait of
+her little son James at the age of eight,--a picture sent to comfort the
+poor mother in her seclusion. The future king's cold indifference to his
+mother's fate was not the least unpleasant trait of his selfish
+character. In a discourse between Sir John Harrington and the monarch,
+the latter did his best to avoid any reference to the poor queen's fate;
+but he might have saved himself the trouble, for he was more affected by
+the superstitious omens preceding her execution. His Highness, he says,
+"told me her death was visible in Scotland before it did really happen,
+being, as he said, spoken of in secret by those whose power of sight
+presented to them a bloody head dancing in the air." From James we may
+turn to little Lady Arabella Stuart in a white gown, nursing a doll in
+still more antiquated costume, in blissful ignorance of her unhappy
+future. She was the granddaughter of Bess of Hardwick, and was born at
+Chatsworth close upon the time when the Queen of Scots was there.
+Looking at these two portraits of this baby and the boy, it is difficult
+to imagine that the latter should have sent his younger cousin to linger
+away her life and lose her reason in the Tower from the fact that she
+had the misfortune to be born a Stuart.
+
+Horace Walpole in speaking of this room says: "Here and in all the great
+mansions of that age is a gallery remarkable only for its extent." But
+it is remarkable for its two huge fireplaces of black marble and
+alabaster, for its fine moulded plaster ceiling, for its
+fifteenth-century tapestry, and quaint Elizabethan easy-chairs. The
+great hall is a typical one of the period, with open screen and
+balustraded gallery, a flat ceiling, big open fireplace, and walls
+embellished with antlers and ancient pieces of armour. When the mansion
+was completed in 1597 the older one was discarded and the furniture
+removed, and the walls were gradually allowed to fall into ruin. It is
+now but a shell; but one may get a good idea of the style of building
+and extent, as well as of the internal decorations. It appears to be of
+Tudor date, almost Elizabethan in character, and over the wide
+fireplaces are colossal figures in bold relief, emblematic, perhaps, of
+the giant energy of Bess of Hardwick, who spent the greater part of her
+lifetime in those old rooms. Tradition says she died immensely rich, but
+without a friend. She survived her fourth husband seventeen years and
+was interred in the church of All-Saints', Derby, where the mural
+monument of her recumbent effigy had been erected under her own
+superintendence.
+
+To the south-west of Hardwick, and midway between Derby and Sheffield,
+are the ruinous remains of another old residence of Lord Shrewsbury's,
+associated with the captivity of Mary Queen of Scots. This is South
+Wingfield manor-house, whither she was removed from Tutbury Castle prior
+to her first sojourn at Chatsworth, and whence she was removed back to
+Tutbury in 1585. By this time Shrewsbury had freed himself of the
+responsible custodianship: a thankless and trying office, for Elizabeth
+was ever suspicious that he erred on the side of leniency. A letter
+addressed from Wingfield Manor, from Sir Ralph Sadleir to John Manners,
+among the Belvoir manuscripts, and dated January 6, 1584-85, runs as
+follows: "The queenes majestie hath given me in chardge to remove the
+Queene of Scots from hence to Tutbury, and to the end she should be the
+better accompanyed and attended from thither, her highness hath
+commanded me to gyve warning to some of the gentlemen of best reputation
+in this contry to prepare themselfs to attend upon her at the time of
+her removing. I have thought good to signify the same unto you emonge
+others, and to require you on her Majesties behalf to take so much paine
+as to be heere at Wingfield upon wednesday the xiiith of this moneth at
+a convenient tyme before noone to attend upon the said queene the same
+day to Derby and the next day after to Tutbury." Of the State apartments
+occupied by her there are no remains beyond an external wall, but the
+battlemented tower with which they communicated, and from which the
+royal prisoner is said to have been in secret touch with her friends, is
+still tolerably perfect.
+
+In the Civil War the brave old manor-house stood out stoutly for the
+Royalists, but at length was taken by Lord Grey. The governor, Colonel
+Dalby, was on the point of making his escape from the stables in
+disguise when he was recognised and shot. The stronghold shortly
+afterwards was dismantled, but in Charles II.'s reign was patched up
+again and made a residence, and so it continued until little more than a
+century ago. The village of Ashover, midway between Wingfield and
+Chesterfield, is charmingly situated on the river Amber amidst most
+picturesque scenery. Here in 1660, says the parish register, a certain
+Dorothy Mady "forswore herself, whereupon the ground opened and she sank
+overhead!" There are some old tombs to the Babingtons, of which family
+was Anthony of Dethick-cum-Lea, nearer Matlock, where are slight remains
+of the old family seat incorporated in a farmhouse. As is well known, it
+was the seizure of the Queen of Scots' correspondence with this young
+desperado, who with Tichborne, Salisbury, and other associates was
+plotting Elizabeth's assassination, that hastened her tragic end at
+Fotheringay.
+
+Bolsover Castle, which lies directly north of Hardwick, has a style of
+architecture peculiar to itself. It is massive, and grim, and
+prison-like, with a strange array of battlements and pinnacles; and Bess
+of Hardwick showed her genius in making it as different as possible from
+her other residences. And the interior is as fantastic and original as
+the exterior. Altogether there is something suggestive of the fairy-tale
+castle; and the main entrance, guarded by a giant overhead and bears on
+either side, has something ogre-like about it. The rooms are vaulted and
+supported by pillars, some of them in imitation of the earlier castle of
+the eleventh and twelfth centuries. They are a peculiar mixture of
+early-English and Renaissance, but the effect is very pleasing and
+picturesque. The main arches of the ceiling of the "Pillar parlour" are
+panelled and rest on Elizabethan vaulting-shafts, and the ribs are
+centred in heavy bosses. The semicircular intersections of the walls are
+wainscoted walnut wood, richly gilt and elaborately carved, and there
+are early-Jacobean hooded fireplaces and queer old painted and inlaid
+doors and window-shutters. The largest of these rooms is the "Star
+chamber," so called from the golden stars on the ceiling depicted on
+blue ground, representing the firmament. In these gorgeous rooms Charles
+I. was sumptuously entertained by the first Duke of Newcastle. In what
+is called the "Riding house," a roofless Jacobean ruin of fine
+proportions, Ben Jonson's masque, _Love's Welcome_, was performed before
+the king and queen. Clarendon speaks of the stupendous entertainment
+(that cost some fifteen thousand pounds) and excess of feasting, which,
+he says, "God be thanked!--no man ever after imitated." The duke (then
+marquis), who had been the king's tutor, was a playwriter of some
+repute, though Pepys does not speak highly of his ability, saying his
+works were silly and tedious.[30] His eccentric wife had also literary
+inclinations, and wrote, among other things, a high-flown biography of
+her spouse, which the Diarist said showed her to be "a mad, conceited,
+ridiculous woman, and he an asse to suffer her to write what she writes
+to him and of him." This romantic and theatrical lady was one of the
+sights of London when she came to town in her extravagant and antiquated
+dress, and always had a large crowd around her. The practical joke
+played upon her at the ball at Whitehall, mentioned in de Gramont's
+_Memoirs_, is amusing, but commands our sympathy, and is a specimen of
+the bad taste of Society at the time.
+
+The romantic situation of the castle, perched upon a steep promontory
+overlooking a dense mass of trees, must have been quite to the old
+duchess's taste; and one can picture her walking in state in the curious
+old gardens as she appears in her theatrical-looking portrait at
+Welbeck. According to local tradition there is a subterranean passage
+leading from the castle to the church, which was formerly entered by a
+secret staircase running from the servants' hall; and there are stories
+of a hidden chapel beneath the crypt, and ghosts in Elizabethan ruffles.
+The Cavendish Chapel in the church was erected by Bess of Hardwick's
+younger son, Sir Charles Cavendish, father of the first Duke of
+Newcastle, and contains his tomb, a gorgeous Jacobean monument.
+
+[Illustration: GARLANDS, ASHFORD CHURCH.
+(_Photo by Rev. J. R. Luxmoore._)]
+
+Some of the remote villages in the wild and beautiful Peak district have
+strong faith in their traditional superstitions and customs. An
+excellent way for a young damsel to discover who her future husband is
+to be is to go to the churchyard on St. Valentine's Eve, and when the
+clock strikes the hour of midnight, if she runs round the church she
+will see the happy man running after her. It has never been known to
+fail, perhaps from the fact that it has never been tried, for it is very
+doubtful if a girl could be found in Derbyshire or any other county with
+sufficient pluck to test it. An old remedy for the toothache was to
+attract the "worm" into a glass of water by first inhaling the smoke of
+some dried herbs. Those who had plenty of faith, and some imagination,
+have actually seen the tiny offender. Maypoles and the parish stocks are
+still to be found in nooks and corners of the Peak and farther south,
+and that pretty custom once prevailed of hanging garlands in memory of
+the village maidens who died young. From a little crown made of
+cardboard, with paper rosettes and ornaments, pairs of gloves cut out of
+paper were suspended fingers downwards, with the name of the young
+deceased and her age duly recorded upon them. And so they hang from the
+oak beams of the roof. In Ashford church, near Haddon, there is quite a
+collection of them suspended from a pole in the north aisle. The oldest
+dates from 1747, but the custom was discontinued about ninety years ago.
+In Hampshire, however, these "virgins' crowns" are still made. At the
+ancient village church of Abbotts Ann, near Andover, there are about
+forty of them, and only the other day one was added with due ceremony.
+The garland was made of thin wood covered with paper, and decorated with
+black and white rosettes, with fine paper gloves suspended in the
+middle. It was carried before the coffin by two young girls dressed in
+white, with white shawls and hoods, who each held one end of a white
+wand from which the crown depended. During the service it was placed
+upon the coffin by one of the bearers, and at the close was again
+suspended from the wand and borne to the grave. It was afterwards laid
+on a thin iron rod branching from a small shield placed high up on the
+wall of the nave of the church. One of these garlands may still be seen
+in St. Albans Abbey.
+
+Another pretty custom is that of "well-dressing," which yet survives at
+the village of Tissington above Ashbourne, and of recent years has been
+revived in other Derbyshire villages, like the modern modified May-day
+festivities. It dates from the time of the Emperor Nero, when the
+philosopher Lucius Seneca told the people that they should show their
+gratitude to the natural springs by erecting altars and offering
+sacrifices. The floral tributes of to-day, which are placed around the
+wells and springs on Holy Thursday, are of various devices, made mostly
+of wild flowers bearing biblical texts; and the village maidens take
+these in formal procession and present them after a little consecration
+service in the church. One would like to see this pretty custom revived
+in other counties.
+
+At Hathersage, beautifully situated among the hills some eight miles
+above Bakewell, Oak Apple Day is kept in memory by suspending a wreath
+of flowers on one of the pinnacles of the church tower. The interior,
+with its faded green baize-lined box-pews duly labelled with brass
+plates bearing the owners' names, has a charming old-world appearance.
+In the church is a fine altar-tomb and brasses to the Eyres of North
+Lees, an ancient house among the hills of the Hoodbrook valley.
+
+The ancient ceremony of rush-bearing at Glossop, formerly connected with
+the church, has, we understand, degenerated into a "public-house show";
+which is a pity. In Huntingdonshire, however, there was until some years
+back a somewhat similar custom of strewing green rushes, from the banks
+of the river Ouse, on the floor of the old church of Fenstanton, near
+St. Ives; but in Old Weston, in the same county, newly mown grass is
+still strewn upon the floor of the parish church upon the village feast
+Sunday: the festival of St. Swithin. The original ceremony of
+"rush-bearing," a survival of the ancient custom of strewing the floors
+of dwellings with marsh rushes, was a pretty sight. A procession of
+village maidens, dressed in white, carried the bundles of rushes into
+the church (accompanied, of course, by the inevitable band), and hung
+garlands of flowers upon the chancel rails. The festival at Glossop, and
+in places in the adjoining county of Cheshire, however, was more like
+the last survival of May-day: the monopoly of sweeps,--a cart-load of
+rushes was drawn round the village by gaily bedecked horses with a
+motley band of morris-dancers accompanying it, who, having made a
+collection, resorted to the public-house before taking their bundles to
+the church. Had they reversed the order of things it is possible the
+custom in some places would have been suffered to continue. Until a
+comparatively recent date the floor of Norwich Cathedral was strewn with
+rushes on Mayor's day; and there is still preserved among the civic
+treasures a wonderful green wickerwork dragon hobby-horse, or rather
+hobby-dragon, with wings, and movable jaws studded with nails for teeth,
+which always made its appearance in the streets on these days of public
+festival.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[29] They have been reproduced most carefully for the drawing-room of
+the Cedar House at Hillingdon.
+
+[30] _Pepys' Diary_, March 18, 1667-68.
+
+
+
+
+
+NOOKS IN YORKSHIRE
+
+
+In a journey across our largest county, so famous for its grand
+cathedrals and ruined castles and abbeys, one could not wish for greater
+variety either in scenery or association. Between the Queen of Scots'
+prison in Sheffield Manor and the reputed Dotheboys Hall a few miles
+below the mediaeval-looking town of Barnard Castle, there is vast
+difference of romance; and yet what more unromantic places than Bowes or
+Sheffield! Indeed, take them all round, the towns and villages of
+Yorkshire have a grey and dreary look about them; and the houses partake
+of the pervading character, or want of character, of the busy
+manufacturing centres. But the natural scenery is quite another matter,
+and with such lovely surroundings one often sighs that the picturesque
+and the utilitarian are so opposed to one another. We do not, however,
+merely allude to the buildings in the southern part of the county, for
+many villages in the prettiest parts have nothing architecturally
+attractive about their houses. The snug creeper-clad cottage, so
+familiar in the south of England, is, comparatively speaking, a rarity,
+and one misses the warmth of colour amid the everlasting grey.
+
+The express having dropped us in nearly the southernmost corner, our
+object is to get out of the busy town of Sheffield as quickly as
+possible; but, as before stated, romance lingers around the remains of
+the ancient seat of the sixth Earl of Shrewsbury, who lies buried in the
+parish church, for under his charge the Scots' queen remained here a
+prisoner for many years; and Wolsey, too, was brought here on his way
+to Leicester.
+
+Upon the road to Barnsley there is little to delay us until we come to a
+turning to the right a couple of miles or so to the south of the town.
+After the continual chimney-shafts the little village of Worsborough is
+refreshing. The church has many points of interest. The entrance porch
+has a fine oak ceiling with carved bosses, and the original oak door is
+decorated with carved oak tracery. The most interesting thing within is
+the monument to Sir Roger Rockley, a sixteenth-century knight whose
+effigy in armour lies beneath a canopy supported by columns very much
+resembling a four-poster of the time of Henry VII. The similarity is
+heightened by the fact that the tomb is entirely of carved oak, painted
+and gilded. The bed, however, has two divisions, and beneath the
+recumbent wooden effigy of Sir Roger with staring white eyes, is the
+gruesome figure of a skeleton in a shroud, also made more startling by
+its colouring. How the juvenile Worsboroughites must dread this spectre,
+for its position in the church is conspicuous! There is a brass to
+Thomas Edmunds, secretary to William, Earl of Strafford, who lived in
+the manor-house close by, a plain stone gabled house with two wings and
+a small central projection. It is a gloomy looking place, and once
+possessed some gloomy relics of the martyr king, including the stool
+upon which he knelt on Whitehall scaffold. These relics belonged to Sir
+Thomas Herbert, the close attendant upon Charles during the later days
+of his imprisonment, and descended to the Edmunds family by the marriage
+of his widow with Henry Edmunds of Worsborough.[31] The park presumably
+has become public property, and the road running through it is much
+patronised by the black-faced gentlemen of the neighbouring collieries.
+Nor are the ladies of the mining districts picturesque, although they
+seem to affect the costume of the dames of old Peru by showing scarcely
+more than an eye beneath their shawls.
+
+Some three miles to the west of Worsborough is Wentworth Castle (a
+successor to the older castle, the remains of which stood on the high
+ground above), called by some Stainborough Hall to distinguish it from
+Wentworth Woodhouse. The historic house stands high, commanding fine
+views, but marred by mining chimney-shafts on the adjacent hills. The
+exterior of the mansion is classic and formal, and exteriorly there is
+little older than the time of George I.; the interior, however, takes us
+back another century or more, and the panelled porters' hall and carved
+black oak staircase were old when powdered wigs were introduced. In
+Queen Anne's State rooms and in the cosy ante-chambers there are rich
+tapestries, wonderful old cabinets, and costly china, reminding one of
+the treasures of Holland House. But the finest room is the picture
+gallery, one hundred and eighty feet in length and twenty-four feet in
+breadth, and very lofty. The ceiling represents the sky with large gold
+stars, and has a curious effect of making it appear much higher than it
+really is. It belongs to the time of the second Earl of Strafford, who
+built all this part of the house. The unfortunate first earl looks down
+from the wall with dark melancholy eyes: a face full of character and
+determination, and different vastly from the dreamy weakness revealed in
+the profile of the sovereign who cut his head off. The despotic ruler of
+Ireland is said to walk the chambers of the castle with his head under
+his arm, which, strangely enough, seems to be the fashion with
+decapitated ghosts; and Strafford is a busy ghost, for he has to divide
+his haunting among two other mansions, Wentworth Woodhouse and Temple
+Newsam. Here is Oliver, too, who made as great a mistake as Charles did
+by resorting to the axe. The young Earl of Pembroke looks handsome in
+his long fair ringlets; and so does the youthful Henrietta, Baroness
+Wentworth (a pretty childish figure fondling a dog), whose end was every
+way as tragic as her kinsman's.
+
+Many of the bedrooms are named after birds and flowers, a pretty idea
+that we have not met elsewhere. The colour blue predominates in those we
+call to mind, namely, the "Blue-tit room," the "Kingfisher room," the
+"Peacock room," the "Cornflower room," and the "Forget-me-not room."
+Just outside the park, near a house that was formerly kept as a
+menagerie, is a comfortable old-fashioned inn, the "Strafford Arms,"
+the landlord of which was butler to two generations of the
+Vernon-Wentworths, and in consequence he is quite an authority on
+genealogical matters; and where his memory does not serve, has Debrett
+handy at his elbow. Being a Somersetshire man he has brought the
+hospitality of the western counties with him to the northern heights. He
+points with pride to the cricket-ground behind the inn, the finest
+"pitch" in Yorkshire.
+
+[Illustration: TOMB, DARFIELD CHURCH.]
+
+Let us avoid the town of Barnsley and turn eastwards towards Darfield,
+whose interest is centred in its church. The ceilings of the aisles,
+presumably like the picture gallery at Wentworth Castle, are supposed to
+represent the heavens, but the colour is inclined to be sea-green, and
+the clouds and stars are feathery. A fine Perpendicular font is
+surmounted by an elaborate Jacobean cover; opposite, at the east
+end of the church, is a fine but rather dilapidated tomb of a
+fourteenth-century knight and his dame, and the effigy of the latter
+gives a good idea of the costume of Richard II.'s time. Upon a wooden
+stand close by there is a chained Bible, and the support looks so light
+that one would think the whole could be carried off bodily, until one
+tries its prodigious weight.
+
+Another tomb, of the Willoughbys of Parham, bears upon it some strange
+devices, including an owl with a crown upon its head. The
+seventeenth-century oak pews and some earlier ones with carved
+bench-ends, add considerably to the interest of the interior. The
+ancient coffer in the vestry, as well as a carved oak chest and chairs,
+must not pass unnoticed.
+
+Barnborough to the east, and Great Houghton to the north-east, are both
+famous in their way; the former for a traditional fight between a man
+and a wild cat, which for ferocity knocked points off the Kilkenny
+record. The Hall was once the property of Sir Thomas More (another of
+those beheaded martyrs who are doomed to walk the earth with their heads
+under their arms), and contains a "priest's hole," which, had it existed
+in the Chancellor's day, might have tempted him to try and save his
+life. Great Houghton Hall, the ancient seat of the Roders (a brass to
+whom may be seen in Darfield church), is now an inn, indeed has been an
+inn for over half a century. Once having been a stately mansion, it has
+an air of mystery and romance; and there are rumours that before it
+lost caste, in the transition stage between private and public life, one
+of its chambers remained draped in black, in mourning for the Earl of
+Strafford's beheading on Tower Hill in 1641. It is a huge building of
+many mullioned windows and pinnacled gables; but within the last two
+years the upper part of the big bays of the front have been destroyed,
+and a verandah introduced which spoils this side, and whoever planned
+this alteration can have had but little reverence for ancient buildings.
+The rooms on the ground floor are mostly bare; but ascending a wide
+circular stone staircase, with carved oak arches overhead, there are
+pleasant surprises in store. You step into the spacious "Picture
+gallery," devoid of ancestral portraits truly, but with panelled walls
+and Tudor doorways. The mansion was stripped of its furniture over a
+century and a half ago, but there are chairs of the Chippendale period
+to compensate, and a great wardrobe of the Stuart period too big
+presumably to get outside. Two bedrooms are panelled from floor to
+ceiling and have fine overmantels, one of which has painted panels
+depicting "Life" and "Death." But a great portion of the house is
+dilapidated, and to see its ornamental plaster ceilings one would have
+to risk disappearing through the floors below, like the demon in the
+pantomime. Mine host of the "Old Hall Inn" is genuinely sympathetic, and
+is quite of the opinion that the oak fittings that have been removed
+would look best in their original position; and this is only natural,
+for he has lived there all his life, and his mother was born in the
+house; and he proudly points at the Jacobean pew in the adjacent church
+where as a child he sat awestruck, holding his grandfather's hand while
+the good old gentleman took his forty winks. The little church in its
+cabbage-grown enclosure is quite an untouched gem, with formal array of
+seventeenth-century pews with knobby ends, a fine carved oak pulpit and
+sounding-board. Its exterior is non-ecclesiastical in appearance, with
+rounded stone balustrade ornamentation. While photographing the building
+an interested party observed that he had lived at Houghton all his life,
+but had never observed there was a door on that side,--a proof that
+residents in a place rarely see the most familiar objects. Nevertheless,
+he discovered the door of the "Old Hall," and entered.
+
+Pontefract Castle, so rich in historical associations, is disappointing,
+because there is so little of it left. It is difficult in these
+fragmentary but ponderous walls to imagine the fortress as it appeared
+in the days of Elizabeth. From an ancient print of that time it looks
+like a fortified city, with curious pinnacles and turrets upon its many
+towers. The great round towers of the keep had upon the summit quite a
+collection, like intermediate pawns and castles from a chessboard. The
+curtain walls connected seven round towers, and there were a multitude
+of square towers within. There is something very suggestive of the
+Duncan-Macbeth stronghold in the narrow stairway between those giant
+rounded towers. It is like a tomb, and one shudders at the thought of
+the "narrow damp chambers" in the thickness of the wall of the Red
+Tower, where tradition says King Richard II. was done to death. By the
+irony of fate it was the lot of many proud barons during some part of
+their career to occupy the least desirable apartment of their castles;
+and thus it was with Edward II.'s cousin, Thomas Plantagenet, Earl of
+Lancaster, who from his own dungeon was brought forth to be beheaded. In
+a garden near the highwayman's resort, Ferrybridge, above Pontefract,
+may be seen a stone coffin which was dug up in a field on the outskirts
+of the castle, and supposed to be that of the unfortunate earl. At
+Pontefract, too, Lord Rivers, Sir Thomas Vaughan, Sir Richard Grey, and
+others were hurried into another world by the Protector Richard; so
+altogether the castle holds a good record for deeds of darkness, and the
+creepy feeling one has in that narrow stairway between those massive
+walls is fully justified by past events. The old castle held out stoutly
+for the king in the Civil Wars. For many months, in 1645, it stood a
+desperate siege by Fairfax and General Poyntz before the garrison
+capitulated. Three years later it was captured again for the Royalists
+by Colonel Morrice, and held with great gallantry against General
+Lambert even after the execution of Charles I. In the March following,
+the stronghold surrendered, saving Morrice and five others who had not
+shown mercy to Colonel Rainsborough when he fell into their hands. These
+six had the option of escaping if they could within a week. "The
+garrison," says Lord Clarendon, "made several sallies to effect the
+desired escape, in one of which Morrice and another escaped; in another,
+two more got away; and when the six days were expired and the other two
+remained in the castle, their friends concealed them so effectually,
+with a stock of provisions for a month, that rendering the castle and
+assuring Lambert that the six were all gone, and he was unable to find
+them after the most diligent search, and had dismantled the castle, they
+at length got off also." There are still some small chambers hewn out of
+the solid rock on which the castle is built, reached by a subterranean
+passage on the north side; and perhaps here was the successful
+lurking-place. Colonel Morrice and his companion, Cornet Blackburn, were
+afterwards captured in disguise at Lancaster.
+
+In the pleasure gardens of to-day, with various inscription boards
+specifying the position of the Clifford Tower, Gascoyne's Tower, the
+King's Tower, and so forth, we get but a hazy idea of this once
+practically impregnable fortress, covering an area of seven acres.
+Concerning Richard II.'s death, it is doubtful whether the truth will
+ever be arrived at. The story that he escaped, and died nineteen years
+afterwards in Scotland, is less likely than the supposition that he died
+from the horrors of starvation; on the other hand, the story of the
+attack by Sir Piers Exton's assassins is almost strengthened by the
+evidence of a seventeenth-century tourist, who, prior to its destruction
+in the Civil War, records: "The highest of the seven towers is the Round
+Tower, in which that unfortunate prince was enforced to flee round a
+poste till his barbarous butchers inhumanly deprived him of life. _Upon
+that poste the cruell hackings and fierce blowes doe still remaine._"
+Mr. Andrew Lang perhaps can solve this historic mystery; or perhaps he
+has already done so? New Hall, close at hand, must have been a grand old
+house; but it is now roofless, and crumbling to decay. It is a
+picturesque late-Tudor mansion, with a profusion of mullioned windows
+and a central bay. The little glass that remains only adds to its
+forlorn appearance.
+
+Ferrybridge and Brotherton both have an old-world look. The latter
+place is famous for the battle fought there between Yorkists and
+Lancastrians; and as the birthplace of Thomas de Brotherton, the fifth
+son of King Edward I. The old inns of Ferrybridge recall the prosperous
+coaching days; but the revival of business on the road which has been
+brought about by cycle and motor, will have but little effect on this
+village with a past. The hostelry by the fine stone bridge that gives
+the place its name, has a past connected with notorious gentlemen of the
+road, and an entry in an old account-book runs as follows: "A traveller
+in a gold-laced coat ordered and drank two bottles of wine--doubtless
+mischief to-night, for the traveller, methinks, is that villain Dick
+Turpyn." How vividly this recalls that excellent picture by Seymour
+Lucas, R.A., where a landlord of the Joe Willet type is eyeing, between
+the whiffs from his long churchwarden, a suspicious guest, who having
+tasted mine host's vintage has dropped asleep, regardless of the fact
+that his brace of flintlocks are conspicuously visible.
+
+Between here and Leeds are two fine mansions, Ledston Hall and Kippax
+Park. The former is a very uncommon type of Elizabethan architecture,
+almost un-English in character. It is a stone-built house of the time of
+James I., with Dutch-like gables and narrow square towers. In the reign
+of Charles I. it belonged to Thomas, Earl of Strafford; but his son, the
+second earl, sold the estate. Kippax in its way is original in
+construction, but savours somewhat of Strawberry Hill Gothic. The
+ancient family of Bland have been seated here since the time of
+Elizabeth, the direct male line, however, dying out in the middle of the
+eighteenth century. Sir Thomas Bland was one of the gallant Royalists
+who defended Pontefract Castle during the Civil War.
+
+A few miles to the north-west is the grand old mansion, Temple Newsam.
+Like Hatfield House, which in many respects it resembles, it is built of
+red-brick with stone coigns, and the time-toned warm colour is
+acceptable in this county of grey stone. It was built like many
+so-called Elizabethan houses in the reign of James I., and, like Castle
+Ashby, has around the three sides of the quadrangle a parapet of letters
+in open stone work which runs as follows: "All glory and praise be given
+to God the Father, the Son, and Holy Ghost on high, peace on earth,
+goodwill towards men, honour and true allegiance to our gracious king,
+loving affections amongst his subjects, health and plenty within this
+house." The loyal sentiments are not those of Mary Queen of Scots'
+husband, Lord Darnley, who was born in the earlier house, but of the
+builder, Sir Anthony Ingram, who bought the estate from the Duke of
+Lennox. Of all the spacious rooms, the picture gallery is the finest.
+It is over a hundred feet in length and contains a fine collection of
+old masters and some remarkable china. Albert Durer's hard and
+microscopic art is well represented, as well as the opposite extreme in
+Rembrandt's breadth of style. But the gem of all is a head by Reynolds
+(of, we think, a Lady Gordon), a picture that connoisseurs would rave
+about. A small picture of Thomas Ingram is almost identical with that of
+the Earl of Pembroke we have mentioned at Wentworth Castle. In one of
+the bedrooms (famous for their tapestry hangings and ancient beds) are
+full-length portraits of Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth, and James
+I., the first like the well-known portraits at Hardwick and Welbeck. On
+one of the staircases is an interesting picture of Henrietta, Duchess of
+Orleans, in a turban, with the favourite spaniel who appears in many of
+her portraits. She holds in her hand the picture of her lord and master,
+the duke who was so jealous of her. A new grand staircase with
+elaborately carved newels, after the style of that at Hatfield, has been
+added to the mansion recently, and harmonises admirably with its more
+ancient surroundings.
+
+The park is fine and extensive, but beyond, the signs of the proximity
+of busy Leeds obtrude and spoil the scenery. We went from here to the
+undesirable locality of Hunslet in search of a place called Knowsthorpe
+Hall, but had some considerable difficulty in finding it, for nobody
+seemed to know it by that name. "You warnts the Island," observed a
+mining gentleman, a light dawning upon him. So we got nearer by
+inquiring for "the Island," but then the clue was lost. Thousands of
+factory hands were pouring out of a very unlikely looking locality, but
+nobody knew such a place. In desperation we plunged into a primitive
+coffee-stall, around which black bogies were sitting at their mid-day
+meal. One of them with more intelligence than the rest knew the place,
+but couldn't describe how to get to it. "Go up yon road," he said, "and
+ask for 'Whitakers.'" We followed the advice, and at the turning asked
+for 'Whitakers.' "Is it the dressmakers ye mean?" was the reply of a
+small boy to whom we put the question. "Yes," we said, in entire
+ignorance whether it was the dressmakers or the almanac people. But
+having got so far there were landmarks that did the rest, and presently
+a big entrance gate was seen with painted on its side-pillars,
+"Knowsthorpe Olde Hall."
+
+[Illustration: GATEWAY, KNOWSTHORPE HALL.]
+
+But there was no Island, not even a moat. The smoke of Leeds has given
+the stone walls a coat of black, but otherwise it is not unpicturesque,
+and would be more so if this original gateway remained. Within the last
+two years this has been removed as well as the steps leading down from
+the terrace. The gateway was called the "Stone Chairs," because of the
+niches or seats on either side of it. It is now, we understand, at Hoare
+Cross, near Burton-on-Trent. There is much oak within the house, and one
+panelled room has a very fine carved mantelpiece. The oak staircase,
+too, is graceful as well as uncommon in design. Close against one side
+of the house is a stone archway with sculptured figures of the time of
+James I. on either side of it, and the old lady in charge related the
+history of this happy pair, how the gentleman had wooed the damsel (a
+Maynard), but as he had not been to the wars she would have nothing to
+say to him. Consequently he buckled on his sword and engaged in the
+nearest battle; and to prove his valour, brought back with him as a
+love-token the arm which he had lost,--a statement sounding somewhat
+contradictory. Naturally after that she fell into his--other arm, and
+accepted him on the spot. This daughter of Mars, of course, now
+"revisits the glimpses of the moon" with her lover's arm, not around her
+waist in the ordinary fashion, but in her hand; and those who doubt the
+story may see her effigy thus represented. But the dignity of this happy
+pair is somewhat marred, for the only use to which they are now put is
+to form a stately entrance to--a hen-coop!
+
+There are some interesting old houses between Leeds and Otley, the "Low"
+Halls of Rawdon and Yeadon, for instance. The former is a good
+Elizabethan house, and contains some interesting rooms. Low Hall,
+Yeadon, dates farther back, though its chief characteristics are of the
+same period. The interior is rich in ancient furniture, and there are
+some Knellers, which the artist is said to have painted on the spot. The
+saturnine features of the Merry Monarch are to be seen on one side of
+the huge Tudor fireplace, and near at hand Nell Gwyn, probably a more
+correct likeness than a flattering one. There are ancient cabinets,
+chests, and tables contemporary with the house; and what is more
+interesting still, the cabinets and chests contain relics of Mary Queen
+of Scots, and the ruffs and collars that were fashionable three
+centuries ago. A gallery, wainscoted with large panels of a later
+period, extends the length of the house; and at the western extremity of
+it a bedroom, also panelled, possesses a hiding-place or secret cupboard
+which it would baffle the most persevering to discover, but when the
+panel is pushed aside, the trick of it looks so very simple. Of the
+Stuart relics we shall speak presently in referring to Mary Queen of
+Scots' imprisonment at Bolton Castle.
+
+Passing through Guiseley, which is situated in the midst of worsted
+mills, with the stocks by a lamp-post in the middle of the street as if
+they were a present-day necessity, you climb a hill and then come
+suddenly upon a lovely view, with Otley, "the Switzerland of Yorkshire,"
+lying in the Wharfe valley below. The Chevin Hill is over nine hundred
+feet in height, and from it you are supposed to see York Cathedral on
+one side and the mountains of Westmoreland on the other. As the Chevin
+is the lion of the place, it is the duty of visitors to go to the top.
+Alpine climbers may enjoy this sort of task, but there are some people
+who do not even wish to say that they have seen a city some
+six-and-twenty miles away; but such as these who go to Otley and do not
+inconvenience themselves would be looked upon by the Otleyites with
+pity. But there is another thing which the town is proud of too, and
+that is its lofty Maypole, which, standing in a firm socket of stone, is
+guarded round by iron rails. There are far more Maypoles in Yorkshire
+than in any other county, and it is pleasing to find the people are thus
+conservative; though truly when they get blown down, they don't often
+trouble themselves enough to put them up again. There are some
+interesting monuments in the church, one on the right of the chancel to
+General Fairfax's grandparents, two stately recumbent effigies of James
+I.'s time. There are mural monuments to the Fawkeses of Farnley Hall (a
+much altered Elizabethan mansion, containing Cromwellian relics: the
+Lord Protector's hat, sword, and watch, and Fairfax's drum) and a
+Vavasour of Weston Hall, who was a philanthropist in his way, for he was
+buried in wool to promote the local trade. He is represented on his
+monument neatly packed, and looks so cosy that the bas-relief is
+suggestive of the undertaker's advertisement, "Why live and be wretched
+when you can be buried comfortably for five pound ten?" In the vestry
+there is a splendid set of old oak chairs of which the verger is not a
+little proud.
+
+[Illustration: LEATHLEY STOCKS.]
+
+[Illustration: STOCKS AT WESTON.]
+
+A pleasant meadow walk by the riverside leads to Leathley, which has a
+Norman church, but can scarcely be called a village, for there is no
+inn. A formidable pair of stocks stand ready by the churchyard; but as
+nothing stronger than milk can be procured, they have not been worn out
+with too much work. Again, at Weston on the other side of the Wharfe
+river we come across the roadside stocks (like the usual Yorkshire type,
+with two uprights of stone) by the spreading roots of an ancient tree.
+Weston Hall is a long low Tudor building, with at one end a broad bay of
+three storeys. An old banqueting-house in the grounds is ornamented
+with shields of arms; and formerly the windows of it were full of
+heraldic stained glass, some of which is now in the windows of the Hall.
+From here we went northwards in search of Swinsty Hall, over a lonely
+moorland district. The road goes up and up until you are not surprised
+when you come to a signpost pointing to "To Snowdon." To the left, you
+are told, leads to "Blubberhouses," wherever that may be. For preference
+we chose the latter road, and soon got completely lost in the wilds. The
+only sign of civilisation was a barn, where we had the fortune to find
+an old man who presumably spoke the pure dialect, for we couldn't make
+head or tail of it. "Swinsty--ai, you go on ter road until it is," was
+the direction he gave, and we went on and until it _wasn't_. At length,
+however, after plodding knee deep in marshy land and saturated heather,
+we found the object of our search perched in a lonely meadow above a
+wide stretch of water. It looked as if it had a gloomy history; and no
+wonder that some of the upper rooms are held in awe, for there the ghost
+of a person with the unromantic name of Robinson is said to count over
+his ill-gotten gains, which he brought down from London in waggons when
+the Plague of 1666 was raging. He had the good fortune to escape
+contamination, and once back with his plundered wealth he meant to have
+what nowadays we call "a good time"; but the story has a moral, for it
+got winded abroad how he got his gold, and nobody would have anything to
+do with him or his money, and by the irony of fate he had to spend the
+rest of his days in trying to wash away the germs of infection.
+
+[Illustration: SWINSTY HALL.]
+
+The hall is entered through a spacious porch in the roof of which is
+hung an enormous bell. The room you enter is by no means gloomy. A
+carved oak staircase with balustrade of peculiar form leads to other
+rooms panelled to the ceiling, with fine overmantels. The leads of the
+small window-panes are of fanciful design; one bears the date 1627 and
+the initials I. W. H., and these occur again with the date 1639 in some
+oak carving in one of the bedrooms. A "well" stone staircase between
+rough-hewn stone walls leads up to the attics, which have open timber
+roofs with semicircular span to the main beams. They look as if they
+were but recently put up, so fresh does the wood look, and the pegs that
+join the timbers still protrude as if they had just been hammered in,
+and awaited the workman's axe to cut them level. A word upon the subject
+of these old roofs may not be out of place. When old houses are
+restored, of course it is the proper thing to open out an original
+timber roof where the original hall or chamber has been divided and
+partitioned, but in so many instances nowadays flat ceilings are
+removed to show the open timbers which were _never intended to be
+seen_. Bedrooms are thus made cold and bare, with not nearly enough
+protection from the draughts from the tiles. The attics at Swinsty are a
+proof of this, there being no great distance between the floor and the
+roof. Another thing, if the floors were done away with here, Mr.
+Robinson would have to come down a storey, and that is not desirable.
+
+On the way to Swinsty, by the bye, a ruinous house is passed on the
+right about midway between there and Otley. It is of no great
+architectural interest, but is singular in construction, having a
+projecting turret containing a spiral staircase at the back, which
+presumably was the only entrance. It is lofty, and has square windows
+with a bay in the centre, but it is now only a shell. Mr. Ingram in his
+_Haunted Homes_ relates that Dob Park Lodge, as the place is called, is
+reputed to be haunted by a huge black dog who has the power of speech,
+and is said to watch over a hidden treasure in the vaults, like the dog
+with saucer eyes in Hans Andersen. The entrance to these is locally
+supposed to be somewhere at the foot of the winding stair, and so far
+only one person has ventured to explore the depths; but when he did, he
+actually saw a great chest of gold!--but then we must take into account
+that he was very drunk. Fewston village, not far from Swinsty, is
+picturesquely situated on a knoll above the lake or reservoir; but the
+church, mostly of William III.'s time, has nothing of interest save a
+few stalls and a pretty little font cover. The wooden spiked altar
+rails might almost be the palings of a suburban garden, whilst the crude
+square panes of red and blue of the chancel windows should be anywhere
+but in a church.
+
+To the north-east is "Catch'em Corner"; but it is uncertain what is to
+be caught except a chill, for the position is very bleak. Striking
+northwards we get into the delightful Nidd valley. To the right lies
+Ripley, famous for the rood screen, the ancient glass, and Edwardian
+tomb of the Ingilbys of the castle, which Tudor structure surrendered to
+the Parliament a day or so before Marston Moor was fought. Here Cromwell
+is said to have sat up all night before the battle, hob-a-nob with his
+unwilling hostess.
+
+Going northwards from Fewston, the prettiest part of the road to Pateley
+is struck near the village of Dacre. The romantic rocks and glens
+hereabouts are famous, and much frequented by tourists, consequently
+sixpences and threepences have to be frequently disbursed. The price is
+cheap enough, but the romance is spoiled. Hack Fall, near Masham, to the
+north-east, is as lovely a spot as one could wish to see, but there are
+too many signs of civilisation about. It is like taming a lion. The
+guide-book tells you to go along until you get to a "refreshment
+house," which almost reads like an advertisement in disguise.
+
+There is a sculptured Saxon cross in Masham churchyard, and the church
+contains a fine monument to the Wyvells of Burton Constable manor, an
+old house near Finghall, to the north-west, where members of the family
+are also buried. The famous Jervaulx Abbey ruins nestle in a hollow on
+the right of the road to Middleham. When close upon it we asked the way
+of a yokel, but he shook his head; and then it dawned upon him what we
+meant: "It's Jarvey ye warnt," he said, and pointed straight ahead.
+Scott's worthy, Prior Aylmer, would surely beam with joy at the tender
+care bestowed upon the remains of the establishment over which he once
+presided; and the park might grace the finest modern dwelling, judging
+by the well-kept lawns and walks; but all this trimness looks less
+natural to a ruin than the more rustic surroundings of Easby, for
+example. The remains of the Cistercian monastery are rather fragmentary,
+consisting mainly of some graceful octagonal pillars and a row of lofty
+lancet windows in the wall of the refectory, and some round-headed
+arches of the chapter-house. It was destroyed in 1539, and the beautiful
+screen of the church carried off to Aysgarth, where it may now be seen.
+
+Continuing along the road to Middleham, Danby Hall, the ancient seat of
+the Scropes, is seen in the distance on the right; but the river
+intervenes, and one has to go beyond East Witton before a crossing can
+be obtained. This village, built on either side of a wide green, has
+nothing out of the common except its Maypole and its very conspicuous
+Blue Lion rampant. A blue lion is a little change after the hackneyed
+red, and the beast looks proud of his originality. Witton probably was
+much prettier before the jubilee celebration of George III.'s reign,
+when the old church and most of the old houses were pulled down.
+
+By the old grey bridge (with the pillar of a sundial in the centre,
+dated 1674) the Cover and Yore Rivers join hands with not a little fuss,
+like the enthusiasm of a new-made friendship. The road to Danby Hall
+runs level with the river then branches to the left. The mansion is
+Elizabethan; but the stone balustrade was added in the middle of the
+seventeenth century, and the small cupola-crowned towers were added
+subsequently. The oldest part is a square tower to the north-east,
+where, in the time of religious persecution, there was a small oratory
+or chapel for secret services. In the heraldic glass of the windows the
+ancient family of Scrope may be traced from Lord Scrope who fought at
+Flodden up to the present day, and their history may be followed by the
+portraits of the various generations on the walls. A curious discovery
+was made here in the early part of the last century. One of the chimneys
+in a stack of four could not be accounted for, and a plummet of lead was
+dropped down each of them, three of which found an outlet but the fourth
+could not be found. To get at the bottom of the mystery, a not too bulky
+party was lowered down, and he found himself in a small chamber full of
+long cut-and-thrust swords, flintlock pistols, and the ancient saddlery
+of untanned leather for a troop of fifty horse. Not much value was set
+upon such things in those days, so the harness was put to good account
+and utilised for cart-horse gear upon the farm. But the dispersal of the
+ancient weapons has a history too, for at the time that England was
+trembling with the fear of an invasion from the dreaded "Boney," a
+cottage caught light one night on one of the surrounding hills; and this
+being taken as a signal of alarm, the beacon on top of Penhill was
+fired. The terror-stricken villagers rushed everywhere for weapons, but
+none could be provided, and the good squire of Danby speedily
+distributed the secret store which had been hidden in the house for the
+Jacobite insurrection of 1715. In time the yokels returned, and there
+was a week's rejoicing and merry-making that the blazing beacon after
+all had only proved a flash in the pan. The pistols and swords, however,
+were not returned save one, which may still be seen with the armourer's
+marks on the blade, "Shotley" on one side and "Bridge" on the
+other.[32] Another has found its way into the little museum at Bolton
+Castle. In demolishing a cottage at Middleham it was discovered up in
+the thatch roof, where it was put, perhaps, pending another alarm. The
+hiding-place was converted into a butler's room by Major Scrope's
+grandfather.
+
+Among the portraits are some good Lelys, including two of Sir Carr
+Scrope who was so enamoured of the Court physician's daughter.[33]
+Another Lely of a handsome girl is said to represent one of the Royalist
+Stricklands of Sizergh. Above the black oak staircase of James I.'s time
+hangs a rare portrait of Mary of Modena; for one seldom sees her when
+the beauty of youth had departed, for naturally she did not like to be
+handed thus down to posterity. The queen looks sour here, which tallies
+with the accounts we have of her in later life; but truly she had cause
+enough to make her sour.
+
+[Illustration: MIDDLEHAM CASTLE.]
+
+From the Yore River the ground ascends to Middleham, now only a sleepy
+looking village but called a "town." Above the roof-tops at the summit
+of the hill stands the mediaeval castle where resided in great pomp that
+turbulent noble, Warwick the "kingmaker." Here it was that he
+imprisoned Edward IV., the monarch he had helped to put upon the throne,
+for daring to marry the widowed daughter of Sir Richard Woodville in
+preference to a Nevill. When, the year after reinstating Henry VI. for a
+brief space, the great feudal baron ended his career on Barnet
+battlefield, his castle at Middleham was handed over by Edward to his
+brother Richard, who had also a claim upon it by his marriage with the
+"kingmaker's" daughter. Here "Crookback," or rather "Crouchback," was
+living before he usurped the Crown in 1483; and here his son the young
+Prince Edward died upon the first anniversary, as a providential
+punishment for the death of his little cousins in the Tower. Richard, by
+the way, is said to have had another natural son who lived into the
+reign of Edward VI. and died in a small house on the Eastwell estate
+near Wye in Kent. Richard Plantagenet's death is duly recorded in the
+parish register, distinguished by the mark of a V, which distinguishes
+other entries of those of noble birth, and a plain tomb in the chancel
+is supposed to be his place of interment. Until an old man he preserved
+his incognito, when Sir Thomas Moyle discovered that a mason at work
+upon his house was none other than a king's son. His youth had been
+spent under charge of a schoolmaster, who had taken him to Bosworth
+field and introduced him into Richard's tent. The king received him in
+his arms and told him he was his father, and if he survived the battle
+he would acknowledge him to be his son; but if fortune should go against
+him, he should on no account reveal who he was. On the following day in
+entering Leicester a naked figure lying across a horse's back was
+pointed out to him as the same great person whose star and gaiter had
+inspired him with awe.
+
+The walls of the Norman castle keep are of immense thickness, and
+protected without by others almost as formidable of a later date. The
+great hall was on the first floor, and the tower where little Edward
+Plantagenet was born (the Red Tower) at the south-west corner; but
+tradition hasn't kept alive much to carry the imagination back to the
+time when the powerful Nevill reigned here in his glory. The escape of
+Edward IV. has been made realistic in the immortal bard's _King Henry
+VI._, and Scene v. Part iii. might be read in less romantic spots than
+in Wensleydale, with this grand old ruin standing out in the distance
+like one of Dore's castles. In this case, distance "lends enchantment,"
+as Middleham itself is by no means lovely. The ancient market-cross
+would look far less commonplace and tomb-like were the top of it again
+knocked off. The site of the swine market bears the cognosance of
+"Crouchback," which is scarcely a compliment to his memory; but this
+antique monument is put vastly in the shade by a jubilee fountain, the
+only up-to-date thing in the place, and quite out of harmony with the
+ring where bulls were baited within living memory.
+
+In Spennithorne church, near Middleham, there is an ancient altar-tomb
+of John Fitz-Randolph, of the family of the early lords of the castle
+before the Nevills became possessed of it. Along the font are several
+coloured shields of arms of the various families with whom they
+intermarried. The nave of the church has an odd appearance, as the north
+and south aisles are separated by a series of distinct arches, the
+latter Early English, the former pure Norman. A very interesting
+thirteenth-century screen was originally at Jervaulx Abbey. On the west
+wall there is a large fresco of Father Time, dating perhaps two hundred
+years later. The rector must be commended for hanging in his church a
+brief summary of the points of interest, and many might follow this
+laudable example.
+
+[Illustration: QUEEN'S GAP, LEYBURN "SHAWL."]
+
+[Illustration: BOLTON CASTLE.]
+
+[Illustration: BELLERBY OLD HALL.]
+
+Leyburn stands high among the hills, and must have been a picturesque
+old market-place before the ancient town-hall, market-cross, and two
+stately elms were removed. The great wide street has now a bare and by
+no means attractive appearance, and were it not for the lovely
+surroundings it would not form so popular a centre for exploring. The
+"Shawl," the huge natural terrace, on a rocky base high up above the
+tree-tops of the woods below, is, of course, its great feature, and a
+more delightful walk could not be found in England, with the softest
+turf to walk upon and the glorious panorama in front. Conspicuous among
+the heights is flat-topped Penhill, standing boldly out against the wide
+expanse of dale, upon whose crest are the ruins of a chapel of the old
+Knights Templars. A gap in the rock, with a path running westwards
+through the woods, is known as "Queen's Gap," for Mary Queen of Scots
+when she fled from Bolton Castle got thus far when she was overtaken in
+attempting to urge her horse through the narrow ravine. In consequence
+of this, the "Shawl" locally is said to derive its name from the shawl
+the prisoner dropped upon the way, giving her pursuers a clue; which on
+the face of it is ridiculous, as the name is derived either from the
+Saxon _Sholl_ or Scandinavian _Schall_. Bolton is some five miles away
+to the west, and the poor captive was to have gone northwards to
+Richmond and thence to her native land; and at Bellerby, between
+Richmond and Leyburn, a halt was to have been made at the Hall, the seat
+of the Royalist family of Scott, where a company of Scots guards was
+stationed ready to receive her. The old Hall still stands on the
+left-hand side of the village green as you enter, and looks as if it had
+a history.
+
+At Bolton the window may be seen from which she was lowered to the
+ground, and one can trace the way she took in a north-easterly direction
+across the rocky bed of the rushing stream into the woods below the
+"Shawl." The window from which she escaped is the upper one of the three
+running horizontally with the south-western tower. There is another
+window to the prison-room which looks into the inner courtyard. The
+apartment is grim and bare, with a small fireplace, and steps leading
+down into a larger bare apartment, once the "drawing-room." Though
+externally the castle is not so picturesque as Middleham, it is much
+more perfect and interesting. The hooded stone fireplaces remain in the
+walls, and various rooms can be located, from the hall and chapel to the
+vault-like stables in the basement. The well, too, is perfect, with
+scooped-out wall to the upper chambers, not forgetting the awful dungeon
+in the solid rock. A large apartment with wide Tudor fireplace has been
+converted into a museum, and the curiosities are of a varied nature,
+from cocking spurs and boxing-gloves from the sporting centres of
+Leyburn and Middleham to the bull-fight banderillos of Spain. There is
+quite an assortment of weird-looking instruments of torture, which,
+after all, are only toasting-dogs, huge cumbrous things like
+antediluvian insects or much magnified microbes. How is it these
+appurtenances of domestic comfort have entirely died out like the now
+extinct warming-pan? But this museum can no way be compared with Mr.
+Home's wonderful collections at Leyburn. Here you can learn something
+about everything, for the kindly proprietor of the museum takes a pride
+in describing his curios. Those who have been to Middleham and seen the
+castle immortalised by Shakespere, may here study Edward IV.'s fair
+hair. As rare a curiosity is a valentine of the time of William III.
+From the treasures of Egyptian tombs you skip to the first invented
+matches; from Babylonian inscriptions to early-Victorian samplers. And
+the learned antiquarian relates how he was educated in the old Yore mill
+at Aysgarth by old John Drummond, the grandson of the Jacobite Earl of
+Perth, who had to hide himself in a farm in Bishopdale (How Rig) for his
+hand in the '45, when the Scotch estates were confiscated for aiding the
+cause of the Bonnie Prince. Were it not for Mr. Home's interest in
+old-time customs, the bull-ring in the market-place would have
+disappeared, for the socket was nearly worn through when he had it
+repaired. He relates how at the last bull-baiting the infuriated beast
+got away and sent the whole sportsmen flying, and at length was shot in
+Wensley village.
+
+Wensley nestles in the valley, surrounded by hills. The interior of the
+church is rich in carvings from the ruinous abbey of Easby, near
+Richmond. The stalls from Easby have at the ends exceptionally bold and
+elaborate carvings with heraldic shields and arms, dating from the days
+of Edward IV. A nearly life-size brass, of the third Edward's time, is
+of its kind one of the finest in England,--an ecclesiastic in robes,
+with crossed hands pointing downwards. By the entrance door is a quaint
+old poor-box; but what first strikes the eye as you enter, is the
+parclose screen from Easby Abbey, which, ill fitting its confined space,
+partially blocks the windows; but the effect of the elaborate carving
+against the tracery is very striking. It is early-Tudor in date, and
+belonged to the Scrope chantry, whose arms appear upon it, with those of
+Fitz-Hugh, Marmion, and other noble families. Within this screen,
+evidently a good many years later, a manorial pew was made, the side of
+which is within the parclose. To amalgamate the two, the latter has been
+somewhat mangled, doors having been added, with a pendant aloft to
+balance other large hollow pendants in the various arches. Unfortunately
+the whole has been painted with a dull grey and grained, a feeble
+attempt to represent marble, and parts of it are also gilt. A fixed
+settle has been added to the interior, so unless carefully examined it
+is difficult to detect how the parclose and pew were made into one. The
+two-decker pulpit and the wide old-fashioned pews lined with faded green
+baize and pink rep, bring us back to more modern times; but one would be
+loath to see them removed if restoration funds were lavish. Beneath the
+great manorial pew lie at rest the remains of the daughter of the
+thirteenth Lord Scrope, who by marriage with the first Duke of Bolton
+brought the castle into the Poulett family: until then the Scropes had
+held possession through marriage with an heiress of the Nevills. The
+third wife of Charles Poulett, second Duke of Bolton, was Henrietta
+Crofts, the daughter of the Duke of Monmouth and Eleanor Needham.[34]
+
+The Scrope who had charge of the Scots queen at Bolton Castle was Henry,
+the eleventh lord, whose wife was sister to the captive's plotting
+lover, the Duke of Norfolk, who also lost his head through these
+ambitious schemes; and doubtless it was the duke who contrived the
+queen's escape. She had been brought from the castle of Carlisle in July
+1568, but after her attempt to escape was promptly removed (on January
+26) to Tutbury Castle under charge of the Earl of Shrewsbury. The
+furniture of her private altar at Bolton, the altar-cloth, part of a
+rosary, a small bronze crucifix, and an alms-bag, are now preserved at
+Low Hall, Yeadon, mentioned earlier in this chapter. Her hawking gloves
+also: these are said to have been given to Lord Scrope upon her leaving.
+
+Some miles to the west of Bolton is Nappa Hall (where the ancient family
+of Metcalfe lived since the reign of Henry VI., and where Metcalfes live
+to-day), a fortified manor-house with square towers (suggestive of
+Haddon), which also claims association with the unfortunate queen. By
+some accounts she slept here one night, by others two or more; and the
+tradition in the Metcalfe family says nine, in the highest chamber of
+the tallest tower. The date is not known, but probably she was brought
+here on her way from Carlisle Castle. The bed on which she slept, the
+top of which was very low, is now at Newby Hall, near Ripon. Our
+sanitary views being very distinct from those enlightened times, the
+pillars of these sixteenth-century beds are frequently raised (in some
+cases unnecessarily high), and unless one wished to be half-smothered,
+this is a natural thing to do if the bed is to be put to practical use;
+but nowadays the collectors of ancient furniture are again reducing the
+height, and bringing them down to their original proportions.
+
+[Illustration: ASKRIGG.]
+
+[Illustration: NAPPA HALL.]
+
+In asking the way to Nappa from the village of Askrigg, we were told to
+follow a "gentleman with a flock of sheep who was going up that way";
+but as the distance was the matter of a couple of miles--and Yorkshire
+miles too, we preferred to follow the telegraph poles, which, after all,
+was more expeditious and quite as reliable. We give this as an instance
+of the ordinary pace at which things move in these parts; and perhaps it
+is as well, otherwise the old Hall built by William Taunton in 1678 (so
+it says on the door), with its upper balcony of wood looking upon the
+quaint old market-cross where the bull-ring used to be, might have given
+way to co-operative stores or some new hideous building.
+
+The village-green of Bainbridge to the west is quite shut in with hills,
+and in the centre are the stocks, or rather the stone supports minus the
+most important part, with a rough rock seat which must have added
+considerably to the victim's discomfort. The principal curiosity,
+however, is the ancient custom prevailing here of blowing a horn at 10
+p.m. during the summer months, to guide belated travellers on the moors.
+This was an excellent provision for safety hundreds of years ago, when
+Bainbridge was practically in the midst of a forest, and even in the
+twentieth century may have its uses. The older horn, that was used
+half a century ago, is now in Bolton Castle Museum. It is very large,
+and curiously twisted. The houses at Bainbridge are of the ordinary ugly
+Yorkshire type; but on high ground overlooking a ravine stands a nice
+old gabled grange, which must have tempted many an artist and
+photographer to pause upon their way to the famous Falls. These, of
+course, are very fine, but to our mind far less beautiful than the
+single plunge of water just below the grange, from a wide and
+scooped-out bed of precipitous rock. Nor are the high, low, and middle
+Falls of Aysgarth half so picturesque, though in a sense they are more
+boisterous, like coppery boiling water.
+
+Aysgarth church is perched up high, and you have to climb up many steps
+to reach it from the moss-grown bridge. The doors of most of the
+Yorkshire churches we found were kept unlocked; but this was an
+exception, so down those steps we had to come, to go in search of a key;
+but reaching the bottom of the flight, up we had to go again to try and
+find the rectory. Oh! the time that may be lost in hunting for a church
+key, and what a blessing it would be if notices were stuck up in the
+porches to say where they were kept. The interior of Aysgarth has a new
+appearance, but the splendid painted screen from Jervaulx (placed east
+and west instead of across the chancel) is worth a hunt for the key.
+Another screen, dated 1536, has upon it the grotesque carving of a
+fool's head with long-eared cap. Here again in the village are the
+stocks; but the Maypole, which once was its pride, long since has made
+its exit.
+
+[Illustration: RICHMOND.]
+
+By far the nearest way to Richmond from Leyburn is across the moor, a
+rough and desolate road, but preferable to the terrible long way by
+Catterick, more than double the distance (by rail it is four times the
+distance!). This is the prettiest village of any on the way (which is
+not saying much, be it said). The early fifteenth-century church has
+some good monuments and brasses, one of the latter to a lady who for
+many years before she died carried her winding-sheet about with her; and
+one would naturally suppose one with such gruesome ideas would still
+walk the earth for the edification of the timid, but she doesn't.
+
+The entrance to Richmond by the nearest way is very charming. You come
+suddenly upon the castle perched up over the river, and as you wind down
+the hill the grouping of its towers is thrown into perspective, forming
+a delightful picture with the river and the bridge for a foreground.
+Three kings have been prisoners within these formidable Norman walls:
+two kings of Scotland, William and David Bruce, and after the lapse of
+three centuries, Charles I., who passed here on his way to Holdenby. The
+stalls and misericordes in the fine old church came from Easby Abbey.
+They are boldly carved, and one of them represents a sow playing a
+fiddle for the edification of her little pigs. There is a curious
+coloured mural monument, on the east side of the chancel, of Sir Timothy
+Hutton and his wife and children--twelve of them, including four babes,
+beneath two of which are these verses:
+
+  "As carefull mothers do to sleeping say,
+  Their babes that would too long the wanton play;
+  So to prevent my youths approaching crimes,
+  Nature my nurse had me to bed betimes."
+
+The next is less involved:
+
+  "Into this world as strangers to an inn
+  This infant came, guest wise;
+  Where when 't had been and found no entertainment worth her stay,
+  She only broke her fast and went away."
+
+Altogether it is a cheery tomb. Faith, Hope and Charity are there, one
+of whom acts as nurse to one of the babes. Her ladyship's expression is
+somewhat of the Aunt Sally type, but that was the sculptor's fault. The
+ancient church plate includes a chalice dated 1640. The registers are
+beautifully neat and clean, and full of curious matter, such as the
+banns being read by the market-cross.
+
+Apropos of Yorkshire marriages, the odd custom prevails in some parts of
+emptying a kettle of boiling water, down--not the backs of the happy
+pair, but down the steps of the front door as they drive away, that the
+threshold may be "kept warm for another bride," we presume for _another_
+swain. The way also of ascertaining whether the future career of those
+united will be attended with happiness is simple and effective. All you
+have to do is, as the bride steps out of the carriage, to fling a plate
+containing small pieces of the wedding-cake out of a window upon the
+heads of the onlookers. If the crowd is a small one, and the plate
+arrives on the pavement and is smashed to pieces, all will go well; but
+if somebody's head intervenes, the augury is ominous; which, after all,
+is only natural, for is it not likely that one thus greeted would call
+at the house to bestow his blessing upon somebody? What a pity this
+pretty custom is not introduced into the fashionable marriages of St
+George's, Hanover Square. It would at least create a sensation.
+
+For the rest of Richmond church, well--it was restored by Sir Gilbert
+Scott. It is regrettable to find the piscina on a level with the floor,
+beneath a pew seat!
+
+The curfew still rings at Richmond, telling the good people when to go
+to bed; but whether they go or not is another matter. We are told it is,
+or was, also rung for them to get up again at six o'clock; and the aged
+official whose duty it was to ring the morning bell, like a wise man,
+did so at his leisure, lying in bed with the rope hanging from the
+ceiling.[35]
+
+[Illustration: EASBY ABBEY.]
+
+From the churchyard, Easby Abbey is seen in the distance in a romantic
+spot by the river: and the walk there is delightful, along the terrace
+above the Swale. Like the rest of these fine structures, it was
+destroyed by the vindictive Henry in 1535. The water close at hand, the
+old abbot's elm, and the little church and gatehouse beyond, altogether
+make this a spot in which to linger and ruminate. The church walls are
+covered with curious and very well preserved paintings of the twelfth
+century, giving a good idea of the costume of the period. The tempting
+serpent, too, is shown twisted in artistic coils around a very
+pre-Raphael looking tree; and in another scene the partakers of the
+fruit are doubled up with remorse, or dyspepsia.
+
+So close at hand as is Bolton on Swale, to the east, it would be a pity
+not to mention Henry Jenkins, who died there in 1670, aged one hundred
+and sixty-nine!--a man in Charles II.'s reign who remembered the
+dissolution of the monasteries, and who recollected as a boy assisting
+in carrying arrows in a cart to the battle of Flodden field (where
+veteran soldiers remembered the accession of King Edward IV.), was a
+wonder compared with the feeble memory of our present-day centenarians,
+who rarely recollect anything worth recording. When we think how nearly
+we are linked with 1670 by the life of Mrs. William Stuart, who died in
+the late queen's reign, and who heard from the lips of her grandmother
+how she had been taken to Court in a black-draped Sedan when Whitehall
+was in mourning for the death of the king's sister, Henrietta, Duchess
+of Orleans,--it would have been possible for the little girl to have
+spoken with old Jenkins, and thus with only three lives to have linked
+the early part of the reign of Henry VIII. with that of Victoria.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[31] We have described these relics (now in the possession of Mrs.
+Martin-Edmunds) in detail in the _Memoirs of the Martyr King_.
+
+[32] In the account in _Secret Chambers_ of the inscription on the
+swords, it is given in error as "Shortly."
+
+[33] See _Some Beauties of the Seventeenth Century_.
+
+[34] See _King Monmouth_.
+
+[35] This and other information we have derived from Mr. Harry Speight's
+interesting work, _Romantic Richmond_.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+
+  Abbotts Ann, 221.
+  Amber, river, 217.
+  "Angel," Ringwood, 178.
+  "Angel," Stilton, 10.
+  "Angel," Yeovil, 145.
+  Ashford, 221.
+  Ashover, 217.
+  Askrigg, 261.
+  Athelhampton, 173, 174, 175.
+  Avon, river, 84, 85.
+  Axmouth, 169.
+  Aysgarth, 249, 262, 263.
+
+  Baddesley Clinton, 72, 73, 76.
+  Bainbridge, 262.
+  Barnard Castle, 225.
+  Barnborough, 230.
+  Barnstaple, 164, 165, 166.
+  Barrington Court, 135, 137, 138.
+  Barton Hall, 23.
+  Barton-on-the-Heath, 66, 67.
+  Beckington Castle, 130.
+  Beeley, 210.
+  Beer, 168, 169.
+  Bellerby, 256.
+  "Bell," Mildenhall, 22.
+  "Bell," Sandy Lane, 105.
+  "Bell," Stilton, 10, 86.
+  Bere Regis, 158, 176, 177.
+  Beverstone Castle, 100.
+  Bewley Court, 109.
+  Biddestone, 114.
+  Bildeston, 32.
+  Bindon, 169.
+  Birdlip, 97.
+  Birtsmorton Court, 81, 83, 84.
+  Bishop's Lydeard, 147, 148.
+  "Black Horse," Birdlip, 98.
+  Blackladies, 199.
+  Blickling Hall, 45, 46, 47, 49.
+  Blore Heath, 192, 193.
+  "Blue Lion," East Witton, 249.
+  Bolsover Castle, 210, 217.
+  Bolton Castle, 251, 256, 260, 262.
+  Bolton-on-Swale, 267.
+  Bossington, 159.
+  Bovey, 169.
+  Bowes, 225.
+  Brailes, 68.
+  Brampton, 4.
+  Branscombe, 167, 168.
+  Braunton, 165.
+  Broadway, 85, 87, 89, 90.
+  Bromham, 103, 105.
+  Brotherton, 236.
+  Broughton Hall, 193, 194.
+  Brympton D'Eversy, 135, 141.
+  Brynkinalt, 185.
+  Buckingham's hole, Blore, 192.
+  Buckland, 89, 90.
+  Bullich House, Allington, 117.
+  Burrow Farm, 136.
+  Burton Constable, 248.
+  Bury St. Edmund's, 27, 31.
+  Bushley, 83.
+
+  "Cannard's Grave," Shepton Mallet, 133, 134.
+  Carhampton, 157, 158.
+  Castle Combe, 114.
+  "Castle Inn," Castle Combe, 116.
+  Catterick, 263.
+  Chapel Plaster Hermitage, 110.
+  Charlcote, 72, 73.
+  Charterhouse Hinton, 128.
+  Chastleton, 62, 64, 66.
+  Chatsworth, 208, 210.
+  Chavenage Manor House, 100, 101.
+  Chedzoy, 135.
+  Cheney Court, 111.
+  Chevin Hill, 242.
+  Chideock, 171, 172.
+  Chipping Campden, 87, 92.
+  Chipping Norton, 61.
+  Chirk Castle, 181.
+  Church House, Crowcombe, 149.
+  Church Stanway, 90.
+  Church Stretton, 188, 189.
+  Claverton Down, 111.
+  Clifton Maybank, 143.
+  Clovelly, 162, 163.
+  Coaxden, 170.
+  Colerne, 112.
+  Coles Farm, Box, 111, 112.
+  Combe St. Nicholas, 145.
+  Combe Sydenham 152, 153.
+  Compton Wyniates, 42, 68, 69, 70, 72, 73.
+  Condover Hall, 187, 188.
+  Connington Hall, 7.
+  Coombe Abbey, 72, 195.
+  Coppingford, 6.
+  Corby, 20, 21.
+  Corsham Court, 109, 112, 113, 114, 128.
+  Cothelstone, 148.
+  Court Farm, Hadleigh, 33.
+  Cover, river, 250.
+  Crimplesham, 56.
+  Croscombe, 132, 133.
+  Crowcombe, 132, 149, 150, 152, 153.
+  Crowther's Farm, 178.
+  Croxton, 194.
+  Croyde Bay, 166.
+  Culford, 26.
+  Curry Rivel, 135, 136.
+
+  Dacre, 248.
+  Dalby, 10.
+  Danby Hall, 249, 250.
+  Darfield, 230.
+  Dedham, 34.
+  Deene, 15, 16, 18.
+  Derwent, river, 210.
+  Dethick-cum-Lea, 217.
+  Dob Park Lodge, 247.
+  Dover Hill, 89, 92.
+  Downham Market, 56.
+  Downside, Shepton Mallet, 133.
+  "Dun Cow," Market Drayton, 190.
+  Dunster Castle, 155, 157, 158.
+
+  Easby, 249, 258, 259, 264, 266.
+  East Barsham Manor House, 41, 42.
+  East Bergholt, 34.
+  East Witton, 249.
+  Eaton Constantine, 188.
+  Edensor, 209.
+  Eleanor Crosses, 21.
+  Elworthy, 153.
+  Enmore Castle, 150, 151.
+  Ermine Street. 6, 97.
+  Erwarton Hall, 36.
+
+  Fakenham, 42, 43.
+  Farleigh Castle, 128, 136.
+  Farnley Hall, 243.
+  "Feathers," Ludlow, 188.
+  Fenstanton, 223.
+  Ferrybridge, 236.
+  Fewstone, 247, 248.
+  Finghall, 248.
+  Flatford, 34, 35.
+  Foss way, 134.
+  Fotheringay Castle, 7, 12, 13, 14, 15.
+  Four-Shire Stone, 66.
+
+  Gastard, 109, 110.
+  Gaulden, 154.
+  Gedding Hall, 31.
+  Geddington, 21.
+  "George," Glastonbury, 126.
+  "George," Huntingdon, 2.
+  "George," Norton St. Philip, 125.
+  "George," Sandy Lane, 105.
+  "George," Yeovil, 145.
+  Glatton, 7.
+  Glossop, 222, 223.
+  Godmanchester, 4.
+  "Golden Lion," Barnstaple, 164.
+  Great Chaldfield, 118, 121, 135.
+  Great Houghton, 230.
+  Great Snoring, 42.
+  Great Torrington, 53.
+  Great Wenham, 35.
+  "Green Dragon," Chipping Campden, 88.
+  "Green Dragon," Combe St. Nicholas, 145.
+  Guiseley, 242.
+
+  Hack Fall, 248.
+  Haddon Hall, 54, 86, 170, 183, 196, 200.
+  Hadleigh, 32, 34.
+  Hardeby, 21.
+  Hardwick, Derby, 143, 210, 212, 239.
+  Hardwick, Suffolk, 30.
+  "Hare and Hounds," East Bergholt, 35.
+  Harkstead, 36.
+  Hathersage, 222.
+  Hautboys Hall, 53.
+  Hawstead Place, 30, 31.
+  Hazelbury House, Box, 111.
+  Helmingham, 27, 150.
+  Hemington, 15.
+  Hengrave Hall, 26, 27, 28.
+  Heytesbury, 128.
+  Hinchinbrooke, 1, 3.
+  Hinton St George, 135, 138, 139, 143.
+  Hoare Cross, 240.
+  Hobbal Grange, 198, 199.
+  Holkham Hall, 40.
+  Holt Lodge, 178.
+  Hungerford Hospital, Corsham, 112.
+  Hunslet, 239.
+  Hunters' Hall, Colerne, 112.
+  Huntingdon, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 11.
+
+  Jervaulx Abbey, 248, 255, 263.
+
+  Kenilworth, 27, 72.
+  Kineton, 94.
+  "King's Arms," Market Drayton, 190.
+  Kingston, 147.
+  Kingston Lacy, 179.
+  Kingston St Michael, 117.
+  Kippax Park, 237.
+  Kirby Hall, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 42.
+  Knapton, 44.
+  Knowsthorpe Hall, 239.
+
+  Lacock Abbey, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109.
+  Langley, 188.
+  Langport, 135.
+  Lark, river, 24.
+  Leathley, 244.
+  Ledston Hall, 237.
+  Leyburn, 255, 256, 257, 263.
+  Little Compton, 61, 62.
+  Little Gidding, 7.
+  Little Saxham Hall, 26.
+  Little Stukeley, 5,6.
+  Little Wenham, 35.
+  Little Woolford, 66.
+  Long Compton, 59, 60, 61.
+  Long Marston, 89.
+  Low Hall, Rawdon, 241.
+  Low Hall, Yeadon, 241, 260.
+  Ludford, 188.
+  Ludlow Castle, 188.
+  "Luttrell Arms," Dunster, 157.
+  Lydcote, 53.
+  "Lygon Arms," Broadway, 85.
+  Lymington, 139, 140.
+  Lynmouth, 160.
+  Lynton, 160, 161.
+  Lytes Cary, 134.
+
+  Malvern Chase, 81.
+  Mannington Hall, 49.
+  Manor Farm, Norton St Philip, 124.
+  Mapperton Manor House, 173.
+  Market Drayton, 189.
+  Martock, 135, 138.
+  Masham, 248.
+  Maxstoke Castle, 72.
+  Melksham, 109, 118, 151.
+  Melplash Court, 173.
+  Menden, 72, 73.
+  Mickleton, 89.
+  Middleham, 248, 249, 251, 252, 254, 257.
+  Middlesoy, 135.
+  Mildenhall, 22, 23, 24.
+  Minehead, 158.
+  Monksilver, 152, 154.
+  Monmouth House, Shepton Mallet, 134.
+  Montacute House, 135, 142, 143.
+  Montacute Priory, 144.
+  Mundesley, Rookery Farm, 44.
+  Mundford, 56.
+
+  Nailsworth, 99, 100.
+  Nappa Hall, 260, 261.
+  Needham Market, 31.
+  Nene, river, 12.
+  Neston, 110.
+  Nettlecombe, 153.
+  Newbury Farm, Bildeston, 32.
+  Newby Hall, 261.
+  "New Inn," Clovelly, 163.
+  North Lees, Hathersage, 222.
+  Norton House, Chipping Campden, 89.
+  Norton St Philip, 123, 126, 127, 128.
+
+  Offenham, 85.
+  Old Cleeve, 154.
+  "Old Hall Inn," Great Houghton, 231.
+  "Old Red Lion," Long Compton, 59.
+  Old Weston, 223.
+  Orwell, river, 34.
+  Otley, 242, 243, 246.
+  Oundle, 11.
+  Ouse, river, 4, 223.
+  Oxburgh Hall, 53, 54, 55.
+  Oxnead Hall, 47, 53.
+
+  Painswick, 98.
+  Parnham Hall, 173.
+  Payne's Place, Bushley, 83, 144.
+  "Peacock," Rowsley, 207.
+  Penhill, 251, 255.
+  Pilsdon, 171.
+  Pilton, 165.
+  Pirton Court, 80.
+  Pitchford Hall, 187, 188.
+  Pixham, 78.
+  Plas Baddy, 185.
+  Plash Hall, 188.
+  Plumpton Hall, 30.
+  Pontefract Castle, 283.
+  Pontfaen, 186.
+  Porlock, 159, 160, 161.
+  Postlip Hall, 93, 96.
+  Powick Bridge, 78.
+  Priors Court, 78.
+  Puddletown, 175, 176.
+
+  Raynham Hall, 42, 47, 48, 74.
+  "Raven," Church Stretton, 189.
+  Rawdon, 241.
+  "Red Lion," Chipping Camden, 88.
+  Richmond, Yorkshire, 256, 258, 263, 264, 266.
+  Ripley, 247.
+  Ripple, 84.
+  Rodborough, 99.
+  Rollright Stones, 60.
+  Rushbrooke Hall, 27, 28, 29, 30.
+
+  St. Giles Park, 178, 179.
+  Sandford Orcas, 135, 140, 141.
+  Severn End, 80, 81, 195.
+  Severn, river, 84.
+  Sheffield Manor House, 208, 213, 225.
+  Sheldon Manor, 118.
+  Shepton Mallet, 132, 133.
+  "Ship Inn," Porlock, 160.
+  Shrewsbury, 81, 181, 188, 189.
+  Shute House, 170.
+  Silton, 171.
+  Snowre Hall, 55.
+  Somerton, 135.
+  Southam House, 93, 96.
+  Southfield, Woodchester, 99.
+  South Petherton, 135, 138.
+  South Wraxall, 118, 121.
+  Spaxton, 151.
+  Spennithorne, 254.
+  Sprowston, 58.
+  Spye Park, 104, 105, 109, 151.
+  Stainborough Hall, 228.
+  Stamford, 16, 18.
+  Stanfield Hall, 53.
+  Stanton, 89, 90.
+  Stanton St. Quinton, 117.
+  Stanway-in-the-Woods, 89.
+  Stiffkey Hall, 41.
+  Stilton, 8, 10, 11, 86.
+  Stogumber, 153.
+  Stoke Ferry, 53.
+  Stokesay Castle, 186.
+  Stour, river, 34.
+  "Strafford Arms," Stainborough, 229.
+  Strensham, 84.
+  Sudeley Castle, 93, 96, 100.
+  Swale, river, 266.
+  "Swan and Salmon," Little Stukeley, 5.
+  "Swan Inn," Downham Market, 56, 58.
+  Swinnerton Hall, 194.
+  Swinsty Hall, 244.
+
+  "Talbot," Oundle, 12.
+  Tamworth Castle, 72.
+  Tansor, 15.
+  Taunton, 136, 147.
+  Tawstock, 166, 167.
+  Temple Newsam, 229, 237.
+  Tetbury, 100.
+  Tewkesbury, 81, 83, 84, 181.
+  Thorpland Hall, 42.
+  Tintinhull Court, 135, 140.
+  Tissington, 221.
+  Tixall, 195.
+  Tong, 196, 197, 199.
+  Trent House, 135, 140, 156.
+  Trentham, 195.
+  Trunch, 44.
+  Tudor House, Broadway, 86.
+  "Turk's Head," Oundle, 11.
+  Tutbury Castle, 260.
+
+  Walsingham, 43, 44.
+  Wamil Hall, 24.
+  Warwick Castle, 72.
+  Waterstone, 173, 174.
+  Wellow, 127, 128.
+  Wells-next-the-Sea, 40, 43, 44.
+  Wensley, 258.
+  Wentworth Castle, 227, 230, 237.
+  Wentworth Woodhouse, 228, 229.
+  West Lydford, 134.
+  Weston Hall, 244.
+  Weston Zoyland, 135.
+  West Stow Hall, 24, 32.
+  Wharfe, river, 242, 244.
+  White House of Pixham, 78.
+  White Lackington, 137.
+  "White Lion," Hadleigh, 34.
+  Wimborne Minster, 177, 179.
+  Winchcombe, 93.
+  Wingfield Manor, 209, 215.
+  Winnington, 189.
+  Wolverton, 173, 174.
+  Woodchester, 99.
+  Woodlands, 178.
+  Wood Stanway, 90.
+  Wool, 176.
+  Wootton Lodge, 195, 196.
+  Wormleighton, 13.
+  Wormwood Farm, Neston, 110.
+  Worsborough, 226, 227.
+  Wothorpe Hall, 18.
+  Wye, river, 204.
+  Wylde Court, 171.
+  Wymondham, 51, 52, 53.
+
+  Yatton Keynell, 116, 117, 118.
+  Yeadon, 241.
+  Yew Tree Farm, Bushley, 83.
+  Yore, river, 250, 252.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Nooks and Corners of Old England, by Allan Fea
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