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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia, by 
+M. E. Hume-Griffith and A. Hume-Griffith
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia
+       An account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence
+       amongst the Women of the East
+
+Author: M. E. Hume-Griffith
+        A. Hume-Griffith
+
+Release Date: April 16, 2012 [EBook #39463]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEHIND THE VEIL IN PERSIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project
+Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously
+made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+              BEHIND THE VEIL IN PERSIA AND TURKISH ARABIA
+
+   An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the
+                           Women of the East
+
+                                   By
+                          M. E. HUME-GRIFFITH
+
+            With Narratives of Experiences in Both Countries
+                                   By
+                     A. Hume-Griffith, M.D., D.P.H.
+
+                    With 37 Illustrations and a Map
+
+
+                              Philadelphia
+                        J. B. Lippincott Company
+                       London: Seeley & Co. Ltd.
+
+                                  1909
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                               I DEDICATE
+                               THIS BOOK
+                                   TO
+                               MY HUSBAND
+                        IN LOVING REMEMBRANCE OF
+                           EIGHT HAPPY YEARS
+                               1900-1908
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+I have endeavoured in this book to give some account of that inner life
+of the East of which a traveller, however keen-sighted and intelligent,
+seldom gains more than a passing glimpse. In a residence of eight years
+in Persia and Turkish Arabia I have become intimate with a large circle
+of friends whose life is passed behind the veil, and as the wife of
+a medical missionary I have had unusual opportunities of winning
+their confidence and becoming acquainted with their thoughts. Of
+direct missionary effort I have said very little, but I hope that
+the picture I have given may arouse interest in lives spent amongst
+surroundings so different from our own.
+
+It is impossible for any one, however unversed in politics, who has
+lived so long in Mesopotamia, not to be deeply interested in the future
+of the country. While all Europe has been filled with astonishment at
+the bloodless revolution in Turkey, we who have become familiar with
+its inner life are touched with a feeling of admiration and something
+akin to awe. Whatever misgivings there may be as to the permanence
+of this reformation we hope and trust that it will endure.
+
+Of one imminent change the effect is likely to be far-reaching. The
+new government has secured the services of Sir William Wilcox as
+their adviser in great irrigation schemes. Irrigation in Mesopotamia
+will change the whole face of the country; vast stretches of desert
+will be transformed into a garden, ruined villages will be restored,
+a new kingdom may be born, and Babylon possibly rebuilt. Mosul,
+practically on the site of ancient Nineveh, will become easy of
+access from Europe by means of the Baghdad railway and the restored
+navigation of the Tigris. Its waste places may be filled with corn,
+and the city be crowned once more with some of its ancient glory.
+
+I should like to take this opportunity of thanking all those who
+have kindly allowed me to use their photographs, amongst them the
+Rev. C. H. Stileman, Dr. Saati of Mosul, and the Publishing Department
+of the Church Missionary Society.
+
+I am indebted to Professor Brown's valuable book entitled "A Year
+amongst the Persians" for information on the Babi religion, and to
+Sir A. H. Layard's classical work on the excavations of Nineveh,
+which I have frequently had occasion to consult.
+
+
+M. E. H.-G.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+
+Part I
+
+
+Chapter I
+
+Early Impressions
+                                                                   Page
+
+    Start for Persia--Arrival at Isphahan--Departure for
+    Kerman--The Land of the Lion and the Sun--A rainy day and its
+    effects--Eclipse--Locusts--Sand-storms--Land of cats--Modes of
+    conveyance--Inhabitants                                          17
+
+
+Chapter II
+
+Kerman
+
+    Short history of Kerman--Its overthrow--City of beggars--Story
+    of the fort--The jackal's "tale of woe"                          30
+
+
+Chapter III
+
+Persian Industries
+
+    Carpet-making--How to tell a good carpet--How
+    to make a carpet--The cry of the children--Shawl
+    manufactures--Calico-printing--Brass-work--Agricultural
+    industries--Water disputes--Kanāts--Poppy crops--Wheat and
+    corn--Tobacco-growing                                            40
+
+
+Chapter IV
+
+The Climate of Persia
+
+    Resht, Teheran, Isphahan--Dryness of atmosphere--Cellars--Roof
+    life--Children attacked by jackals--Chequered history of work in
+    Kerman                                                           50
+
+
+Chapter V
+
+Holidays in Persia
+
+    How to ensure a prosperous journey--Natanz--Astonishment of natives
+    at sight of hairpins--Pulivagoon--Mahoon--Aliabād--Prince under
+    canvas--Visit from a Persian princess--A Persian deer hunt       59
+
+
+Chapter VI
+
+Social Life in Persia
+
+    Kerman--House-hunting and building--White ants--Housekeeping
+    in Kerman--Servant question--Truth v. falsehood--Abdul
+    Fateh--Bagi--Recreations--Some exciting rides--Persian
+    etiquette--Dinner at the governor's                              71
+
+
+Chapter VII
+
+The Women of Persia
+
+    Home Life--Anderoon, women's quarters--Jealousy in
+    the anderoon--Anderoon of Khan Baba Khan--Two days in an
+    anderoon--H.R.H. Princess Hamadané Sultané--Visit to the anderoon
+    of H.R.H. the Zil-es-Sultan                                      84
+
+
+Chapter VIII
+
+More About Persian Women
+
+    Costumes--Wedding festivities--Wedding dinner--Kindness of Persian
+    husbands--Story of brutality--Divorce--Aids to beauty--Degradation
+    and cruelty of women                                             95
+
+
+Chapter IX
+
+Some Points in the Moslem Faith
+
+    Fasts and feasts--Seyyids, Dervishes, Mullahs--Legends of the
+    drowning mullah, and the yard-square hole                       106
+
+
+Chapter X
+
+Other Religious Sects
+
+    The Bįb and Babism--Short sketch of life of the Bįb--His
+    imprisonment and execution--Parsees, or Zoroastrians--Persecutions
+    of Parsees in seventh century--Sacred writings of Parsees,
+    Zendavesta--Fire-worshipping--Fire temples--Holy fire--Parsee
+    wedding--Costume of women--Death customs--Burial customs        116
+
+
+Chapter XI
+
+Desert Delights
+
+    Songs of the desert--Sunsets, sunrises, mirages--Illness in the
+    desert--Mehman khanehs, caravanserais--Chappa khanehs--Lost in
+    the desert--Its cruelties and sadness                           130
+
+
+Chapter XII
+
+Persian Medical Missions
+
+    The need of them--Work in Isphahan--The "little devil" transformed
+    into a boy--Amputation--Brothers in adversity--H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan
+    as a patient--Fanaticism overcome                               140
+
+
+Chapter XIII
+
+Pioneer Medical Mission Work in Kerman
+
+    Waiting for drugs and instruments--Native assistant proves
+    a broken reed--First operation in Kerman--An anxious
+    moment--Success--Doctrine of "savab" convenient to the
+    Moslem--Fanaticism tempered with prudence--Opium slaves--Persian
+    therapeutics--Persian quacks and their methods--Sure way of curing
+    cancer--Hysteria                                                151
+
+
+Chapter XIV
+
+Medical Mission Work in Yezd
+
+    A hospital--A friendly governor--A suspicious
+    case--Superstition--The opium habit--A case of cataract--We return
+    to England                                                      164
+
+
+
+
+Part II
+
+
+Chapter I
+
+The City of Nineveh
+
+    The fast of Jonah--The bridge of boats--Traditions as
+    to ancient history of Mosul--Elkos, birthplace of Nahum
+    the prophet--Shurgāt--Climate of Mosul--Cultivation and
+    industries--Importance of Mosul                                 173
+
+
+Chapter II
+
+The People of Mosul
+
+    Population--Moslems--Christians--Chaldeans--Nestorians--Jacobites
+    --Arabs--Kurds--Jews--Yezidees--Recreations--Warfare
+    of the slingers--Hammam Ali--The recreation ground of Mosul men
+    and women                                                       186
+
+
+Chapter III
+
+The River Tigris
+
+    Ancient historical interest--Garden of Eden--Origin of name
+    unknown--Swiftness--Sources--Navigation--Keleqs--Bathing, fishing,
+    washing--Crossing rivers                                        198
+
+
+Chapter IV
+
+The Children of Mosul
+
+    Spoiling process--Despair of the parents--The "god" of the
+    hareem--Death by burning--Festivities at birth of boy--Cradles
+    and cradle songs--School life--Feast in honour of a boy having
+    read the Koran through--"Only a girl"--Girl life--Girl victims
+    of Naseeb--Marriage                                             208
+
+
+Chapter V
+
+The Moslem Women of Mosul
+
+    Beauty behind the veil--Types of beauty--My dear old friend of 110
+    years of age--Aids to beauty described--Pretty children--Beauty
+    tainted with sin--Imprisonment of women--Peeps into some
+    hareems--Warm receptions--A visit from the ladies of a select
+    hareem--Love the magic key to open hearts                       219
+
+
+Chapter VI
+
+Moslem Family Life
+
+    No home life--Women equal with the beasts--Evils
+    of divorce--Naseeb--The will of God--Truth and
+    falsehood--Honesty prevalent--A thief caught--Swearing and
+    anti-swearing--Fighting--Hair-tearing and biting--Hammam, the
+    ladies' club                                                    231
+
+
+Chapter VII
+
+Customs of Mosul
+
+    Wedding ceremonies--Great expense to parents--Method of
+    procedure--Funeral customs--Customs at birth--Some other customs
+                                                                    244
+
+
+Chapter VIII
+
+Dreams and Visions
+
+    Ezekiel's vision by the river Chebar--Our vision by the river
+    Khabour--Rivers identical--"A wheel within a wheel"--Babylonish
+    emblem of divinity--Origin of the cherubim--Dream of a woman
+    suffering from cataract--Effect of dream on her character--Watch
+    and chain recovered by means of a "faked" dream--Illustration
+    of the doctrine of Kismet or Naseeb--"Ghosts" in our
+    compound--Atmosphere of ghosts bad for fowls                    257
+
+
+Chapter IX
+
+Manners and Superstitions in Mosul
+
+    Characteristics of inhabitants of Mosul--Social habits--Love of
+    drink--An effectual cure--Gambling--Tel Kaif: a story of Uncle
+    Goro--The Angel of Death, and other titles--Difficulties over
+    name and age--Some superstitions--Effect of scent on women--Birds
+    of good omen--Thieves--Sheep-killing--Sheikh Matti--An angel's
+    visit--Medical superstitions--Cure for hydrophobia              269
+
+
+Chapter X
+
+The Yezidees
+
+    Gratitude to the English--Persecutions--"Devil-worshippers"--Sun
+    and fire worship--Priesthood--A visit to Sheikh Ādi--Peacock
+    wands--A sacred shrine                                          284
+
+
+Chapter XI
+
+Travelling in the Desert
+
+    Monotony of desert travelling--A puppy and a kitten
+    tragedy--Accident by the river Euphrates--Riots in Mosul--Robberies
+    and murder excited by love of gold                              294
+
+
+Chapter XII
+
+The Pleasures of Desert Travelling
+
+    Desert blossoms as a rose--Flowers of the desert--Arabs, their
+    occupation and women--Arab dancing--Robbers of the desert--An
+    army of 10,000--Five hundred armed men--False alarms--Lost in
+    the desert--Delights and disturbances of travelling             307
+
+
+Chapter XIII
+
+Pioneer Medical Mission Work in Mosul (Nineveh)
+
+    Winning the confidence of the people--Native surgery--Difficulties
+    to be overcome--Backward patients--Encouraging work--Prevalent
+    diseases--Lunatics--Possible future of Mesopotamia              317
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                                   Page
+    The Author and her Husband in Bakhtian Costume         Frontispiece
+    Persian Conveyances                                              26
+    A Halt for Lunch                                                 26
+    A Novel Drying Ground                                            46
+    Persian Mode of Irrigation                                       46
+    A "Chimney" of Yezd                                              54
+    A Korsi Or Heating Contrivance                                   54
+    House-building in Persia                                         72
+    Persian Shops                                                    72
+    Scene from the Roof of our House at Kerman                       76
+    A Street in Kerman                                               76
+    The Mosque Gate, City of Kerman                                  86
+    A Mountain Pass                                                 132
+    A Caravanserai                                                  132
+    A Very Ancient Bridge                                           142
+    A Typical Street in Baghdad                                     142
+    Using the X Rays in Julfa Hospital                              148
+    A Ward in the Julfa Hospital                                    148
+    Opium Making                                                    158
+    The Rich Beggar                                                 158
+    Types of Persian Jews                                           166
+    The Water Square                                                166
+    Our Home in Nineveh                                             174
+    A Bridge of Boats                                               176
+    The Bridge of Boats Over the Frozen Tigris                      180
+    A Picnic Party                                                  188
+    Mutrar Paulus, Syrian Roman Catholic Bishop                     192
+    Dr. Hume-Griffith's Study in Mosul                              210
+    Our Drawing-room in Julfa                                       210
+    A Group of Persian Girls                                        216
+    The Camera in Mosul                                             222
+    Tired of Play at a Picnic                                       222
+    An Itinerant Cook preparing Kabobs                              224
+    Bread-making                                                    240
+    A Mosul Bride                                                   246
+    A Wonderful Vision                                              259
+    Travelling in Winter                                            296
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+PART I
+
+
+                   "So, after the sore torments of the route,
+                    Toothache and headache, and the ache of mind,
+                    And huddled sleep and smarting wakefulness,
+                    And night and day, and hunger sick at food,
+                    And twenty-fold relays, and packages
+                    To be unlocked, and passports to be found,
+                    And heavy well-kept landscape--we are glad
+                    Because we entered (Persia) in the Sun."
+
+                                                         D. G. Rossetti.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BEHIND THE VEIL IN PERSIA AND TURKISH ARABIA
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+EARLY IMPRESSIONS
+
+    Start for Persia--Arrival at Isphahan--Departure for
+    Kerman--The Land of the Lion and the Sun--A rainy day and its
+    effects--Eclipse--Locusts--Sand-storms--Land of cats--Modes of
+    conveyance--Inhabitants.
+
+
+                   "'Tis the sight of a lifetime to behold
+                    The great shorn sun as you see it now
+                    Across eight miles of undulant gold
+                    That widens landward, weltered and rolled
+                    With patches of shadow and crimson stains."
+
+                                                                 Lowell.
+
+
+    "Shadow maker, shadow slayer, arrowing light from clime to clime."
+
+                                                          Lord Tennyson.
+
+
+Our life in Persia extended over a period of three years, dating from
+the spring of 1900 to that of 1903.
+
+It was with great joy I heard the news, early in February of 1900,
+that my husband had been appointed by the Church Missionary Society
+to open medical work in Kerman, and that we were to start almost at
+once. Within a month we were married, had bought our outfit, bid
+sorrowful farewells to our relations and friends, and started for
+the romantic land of Persia. From London to Isphahan took us just
+nine weeks, as we were delayed by illness for some weeks both in
+Russia and in the Persian Desert. However, on 9th May we entered the
+beautiful city of Isphahan, to find a warm welcome awaiting us from
+friends there. This place will always have a very warm corner in my
+heart, for it was there we made our first home. The doctor in charge
+of the work at Julfa (the Christian quarter of Isphahan) having left
+on furlough, my husband was asked to remain there till his return,
+which he accordingly did. It was not till the following spring that
+we left for Kerman. Thus our first impressions of this land of light
+and darkness were gathered from Isphahan and its neighbourhood. There
+is no after time so full of interest to those who live abroad as the
+first year spent in a new life and country, gleaning fresh ideas,
+seeing new sights, gaining experiences often dearly bought, but which
+must be purchased ere the newcomer can settle down to life in the
+East with any comfort or peace of mind.
+
+The native servants love to obtain posts with fresh comers, knowing
+that for the first few months, at any rate, they will have an
+exceedingly good time, being able to make a huge medāqal (profit)
+from the unsuspecting Feringhi. I sigh to think of the many ways in
+which we were cheated those first few months of our life in Persia,
+but no one breathed a word to us, realising that our eyes would be
+opened only too soon, and that experience was the most effectual
+teacher. It is a strange fact that all housekeepers new to the land
+think their servants are perfect till they find out, perhaps when
+too late, their foolish delusion.
+
+From the very first my heart went out in affection to the dear Moslem
+women, and now, after eight years spent amongst them, I can truly
+say that my love has deepened, and my sympathies become enlarged,
+for these charming but, alas, too often unhappy followers of Mohammed.
+
+Our knowledge of Persia extends especially to three cities, in each of
+which we spent a year. Isphahan, as we have seen, was our first home,
+then came a year at Kerman, a distance of some 500 miles separating
+the two cities. Finally we spent a very happy year at Yezd, that
+City of Sand, situated midway between Isphahan and Kerman. Of each
+of these cities we shall hear more in other chapters.
+
+Persia has well been called the Land of the Lion and the Sun. Certainly
+the latter name is well deserved, for the sun is almost always shining,
+and without the brilliant sunshine we should hardly recognise it as
+the land of Persia.
+
+The symbol of the Lion and the Sun originated in the days when the
+Zoroastrians were the inhabitants of the land. The Sun, being the
+emblem of the Fire Worshippers, was taken as their national badge. The
+Lion was added later because Ali, the grandson of Mohammed, was called
+"The Lion of God." The woman's face in the Sun was inserted some years
+later by one of the Persian kings as a tribute to his favourite wife.
+
+The sunshine of Persia forms one of its greatest attractions. Even in
+winter the dull, cloudy days are few and far between. When by chance
+a rainy day does come, the people are so surprised and taken aback
+that they seem paralysed for the time being, and are unable to go
+about their usual business.
+
+The remembrance of our first experience of a rainy day still lingers
+in my memory. We had awakened one morning much later than usual to
+find the sky clouded over and the rain coming down in torrents. I was
+surprised to find that we had not been called as usual, but imagined
+the servants had forgotten to do so. Upon entering the dining-room,
+what was my surprise to find no preparations for a meal. Calling the
+servant, I asked him why breakfast was not ready. At this he seemed
+quite hurt, as he answered, "But, Khanum (lady), it is raining!" This
+fact was to his mind quite sufficient reason for everything. As long
+as the rain lasted the servants could be prevailed upon to do nothing
+except crouch over the fire and shiver! The moment the rain ceased
+and the sun once more shone out they resumed their normal state.
+
+This constant sunshine is a great boon to the beggars and poor, helping
+to make life endurable for them; they need very little clothing,
+as a rule, to enable them to keep warm. So long as they can lie and
+bask in the sunshine, picking up bread enough to sustain life, they
+trouble very little about working or earning money.
+
+There is only one place where there is very little sunshine, and that
+is in the hearts and lives of the people. Especially, perhaps, is this
+true in the case of the women of the land, as we shall see presently.
+
+A Persian gentleman once visited England, and on his return to his
+native country was questioned by his friends as to which was the
+better land to live in. His reply was to the effect that in England
+the houses were grander, the scenery more beautiful, but that there
+was no sunshine! This lack, to his mind, far outweighed all the other
+advantages which might belong to England, and his friends decided that,
+after all, Persia was the better country to live in.
+
+When there happens to be a cloudy day or night in summer, the result
+is anything but cooling, for the air becomes terribly oppressive,
+it is almost impossible to breathe, and during the night it is quite
+useless to think of or hope for sleep till the clouds have rolled away.
+
+The natives are very much alarmed when an eclipse of the sun
+takes place, as they are afraid they are going to lose their
+benefactor. Once, while we were in Yezd, the sun was eclipsed. Suddenly
+hundreds of guns and cannons were fired off from all parts of
+the town. We ran out to see what had happened, and were met by our
+frightened servants carrying their guns, who told us that an enormous
+fish was trying to swallow the sun, and that they hoped, by making a
+terrific noise, to frighten it away! Great was their joy and relief
+when the shadow began to pass from the sun.
+
+Sand-storms are terrible trials in Persia. Quite suddenly, without
+any warning, the light disappears, clouds upon clouds of dust come
+rushing in. Before you have time to shut all the doors and windows,
+everything in the house is covered with a fine white dust. Sand-storms
+are disagreeable and trying to the patience when they find you in
+the house, but when you are caught in a heavy sand-storm out in the
+desert, it is often a source of great danger. If riding, the only
+possible thing to do is to dismount, cover your head and face as well
+as possible, turn your back to the storm, and hope for the best.
+
+At other times the light is obliterated in the daytime by a swarm of
+locusts passing overhead. Till I saw this myself I could hardly believe
+it was possible for these little insects to obscure the light of the
+sun as they did. One day in Kerman we were just ready to set off for
+a ride, when suddenly the light vanished, and I thought a fearful
+thunderstorm was about to burst upon us. On looking up we saw what
+appeared to be a huge black cloud hovering overhead: presently this
+descended and resolved itself into myriads of flying insects. As some
+fell to the earth we found them to be locusts from two to three inches
+long. The natives were dreadfully alarmed lest they should settle on
+their fields, as it was springtime, and the ground was already green
+with promise of harvest. Had the locusts settled, it would have meant
+ruin and starvation to many. Fortunately, they passed over that time.
+
+We have seen that Persia is a land of sunshine, we must not forget
+that it is also a land of cats.
+
+I was amused the other day to see how differently two people can see
+the same thing. In the course of a conversation with a friend who was
+for some years in Persia, I asked him if he did not admire the Persian
+cats very much. "Never saw one," was his answer, and he maintained
+that the whole time he was in Persia he never saw a long-haired
+cat. My experience was quite the reverse, for I hardly remember ever
+seeing an ordinary short-haired one during the three years we were in
+Persia. We had some beautiful white ones, but they were very delicate,
+and generally came to an untimely end. We tried to take one to Kerman,
+but it met with a sad death when only half way there.
+
+Cats are exported on quite a large scale to India and other
+places. They are taken to the coast by horse-dealers, who tether them
+in much the same way as they do their horses.
+
+One of the late Shahs is said to have been very devoted to cats,
+and always took one with him when he travelled, a special baggage
+animal being reserved for the cage of this favourite pet.
+
+There are many ways of journeying in Persia, and the would-be
+traveller can take his choice according to his own ideas of comfort
+and convenience. To my mind the most pleasant way of all is to have
+your own horses for riding, and thus be able to set your own pace and
+not have to be bound down to the slow, wearying, never-changing rate
+of the caravan.
+
+For those who do not care for, or are not strong enough for riding,
+there are many conveyances. Here, again, the traveller has quite a
+large choice of good things. First of all there is the "kajāvah." This
+consists of two cage-like boxes, suspended one on each side of the
+animal: the interior of these boxes sometimes boasts of a little
+low seat, but as a rule is innocent of any such luxury. Two people
+of about the same weight must sit on each side, or the result is
+disastrous. I remember once being with a large caravan. In one of
+these kajāvahs was travelling a Government official and his wife. He
+was very tiny, she was quite the reverse, the result being that the
+little man was generally up in the air while the opposite side of the
+kajāvah was weighed down nearly to the ground. They tried all manner
+of experiments in their endeavour to strike the balance, gathering
+stones and depositing them in the lighter side, tying bags of fuel,
+&c., to the outside of the kajāvah, but all of no avail. At last,
+in disgust and anger, the woman jumped out without giving her husband
+any warning: the result to onlookers was ludicrous! The wife refused
+all that day again to enter the kajāvah, preferring to walk, till
+one of the muleteers offered her a seat on the top of one of the
+baggage mules. The little man was soon balanced with stones picked
+up by the wayside, and travelled for the rest of that day in peace
+and comfort. At the end of the stage, however, his wife would not
+speak to him or cook his dinner for him! and the man (who was quite
+the reverse of an ordinary Moslem man) came to one of my husband's
+assistants, begging him to act as mediator. In this case the man and
+woman seem to have exchanged places as regards character, the wife
+being decidedly the master, and he, poor man, looked as if he hardly
+dared call his soul his own. Even amongst Moslems there doubtless
+are some strong-minded women.
+
+I have travelled many miles in one of these kajāvahs, finding them
+very comfortable and restful, after riding for hours. My husband had a
+pair specially made for me, with seats inside, and nicely cushioned:
+these always went with us on our journeys in Persia, so that, when
+I tired of riding, I could rest awhile. While I was not using them
+our servants had to take my place, a favour they did not always
+appreciate. When travelling by night, I have slept for hours at a
+stretch in one of these kajāvahs, the steady measured walk of the
+mule favouring slumber. Sometimes, however, the monotony is broken
+by the mule suddenly dropping on to its front knees, and you find
+yourself deposited on the ground, shot out like an arrow from its bow.
+
+If this form of conveyance does not appeal to the traveller then there
+is the "takhtiravan." This is a most luxurious mode of conveyance, and
+is, as a rule, only used by invalids or high-class Moslem ladies. It
+consists of a box, with doors and windows, measuring about six or seven
+feet by four in length and five in height. The top is covered with
+heavy felt or some material which will keep out the sun or the rain,
+according to which season of the year you are travelling in. Inside
+is placed a mattress with plenty of cushions: the whole is built
+on shafts which are slung between two mules, one in front and one
+behind. The motion is rather like that of a rolling ship, and, unless
+the occupant is a good sailor, the experience is not always a pleasant
+one. I once travelled for a week in one of these conveyances, and on
+arriving at our destination found my back was a mass of bruises. The
+takhtiravan is very good for night travelling, as you can lie flat
+down and sleep, provided the animals keep in step and the road is
+good. On an uneven road the sensation is not too comfortable.
+
+We once had a never-to-be-forgotten week of torture in a springless
+wagon; it really was too terrible. Oh, the jolting, the jarring,
+and the bone shaking! Each day the misery increased, till every bone
+in our bodies was bruised and aching, and every nerve racked to its
+utmost. I should not recommend this mode of conveyance to any one
+contemplating a journey in Persia. When we first went to the Land of
+the Lion and the Sun, carriages were very scarce and very expensive
+south of Teheran. Now they are becoming much more generally used,
+at any rate as far as Isphahan. When we left Kerman in 1902 we drove
+to Yezd in a carriage kindly lent to us by one of the Kerman native
+gentlemen. Albeit the wheels came off occasionally and various other
+accidents took place, still it was a very luxurious way of travelling,
+comparatively speaking. Then, when we finally left Persia in 1903,
+we drove from Isphahan to Teheran in a private carriage belonging to
+a friend who lent it to us for the journey; so that I fully expect
+by now that travelling by carriage has become quite the ordinary mode
+of journeying in Persia.
+
+The last part of that drive into Teheran has left a vivid remembrance
+on my mind. It was a Saturday, and we were very desirous of reaching
+Teheran that night, otherwise it meant spending Sunday at a village
+near the city, as we did not like travelling on that day. So we
+determined to push on at all costs. To add to our difficulties it began
+to pour with rain soon after starting in the morning, and continued
+a steady drench the whole day. Long before we reached the end of our
+stage we were both wet through to the skin. Sunset found us still some
+twenty miles out of Teheran, and, the horses beginning to show signs of
+fatigue, we perforce had to rest them for a while. When we were within
+five miles or so of the city, we found the road all flooded, and it
+was difficult to know where the road ended and the ditch began which
+ran parallel to the road on both sides. It was by then pitch dark, so
+there was nothing to be done but let the horses take their own way,
+hoping their instincts would lead them and us safely. All went well
+till we were within sight of the lights of Teheran, when suddenly smash
+went the carriage, and down fell the horses into a deep ditch. One poor
+horse (our own, which we were taking to Teheran to sell) never moved,
+and we thought he was dead. I jumped down from the dogcart and landed
+in the ditch nearly up to my waist in water! The lamps had gone out,
+and we were in total darkness. We called and called for help but no
+one came, so my husband and I walked on a little to see if we could
+find any one to help, leaving the horses and carriage in charge of
+the driver, who was half beside himself with fear.
+
+Presently we came across a little wayside coffee-house, and found
+some men who were willing to go and help extricate the poor horses
+from their dangerous position, while we walked on to the gate of
+the city and waited in the porter's lodge. After about an hour the
+carriage came along, the horses looking none the worse for their
+escapade. Our kind friends of the American Mission were waiting up,
+and had prepared hot baths and hot drinks for us, knowing that if we
+did arrive that night at all we should be in a terrible plight. Thanks
+to their kindness and thoughtfulness, we suffered no harm from our
+damp and adventurous drive.
+
+The inhabitants of Persia are: Moslems, the Persians of to-day;
+Zoroastrians (Parsees), the Persians of yesterday; Armenians, and
+Jews. Of the two former I will not speak now, as we shall make their
+acquaintance a little later. A few words will suffice for Armenians
+and Jews. The former were brought from Julfa in Armenia many years ago
+by some former Shah on account of their industry and workmanship. He
+gave them a suburb of Isphahan to live in, and very soon a large
+Armenian settlement sprang up. Julfa of Persia is about three miles
+from Isphahan. Here all the Armenians live, and until quite lately
+the Europeans also, as it was not considered safe for them to reside
+in Isphahan. However, of late years this is all changed, most of the
+Europeans now having houses in Isphahan.
+
+The Armenians are very clever workmen in all crafts and trades. Also to
+their shame be it said that they are the wine and spirit makers for the
+Isphahanis. A true Moslem is not allowed to make or drink wine. Thanks
+to the Armenians, however, the temptation is ever at hand ready for
+him, with plenty of opportunities afforded him of indulging in secret.
+
+The Armenians make very good assistants for hospital work, some
+of them turning out quite good doctors. One young fellow was with
+my husband for two years. After we left he went to India, where he
+took a medical course, and is now a fully qualified doctor practising
+in India.  They have plenty of "push" in them, and once they make up
+their minds to get on, no obstacle is too great for them to overcome.
+
+The Jews of Persia are a miserably poor, degraded class of
+people. Their lot is a very hard one; despised and oppressed by the
+Moslems, hated and cursed by all, their life is not enviable. They
+are to be found everywhere, in Isphahan, Yezd, Kerman, and many other
+cities. My heart often ached for these poor, wretched people as they
+flocked to the dispensaries. Fortunately for them, there is a Mission
+amongst the Jews in Persia which helps in no small way to brighten
+the lives of the poor, downtrodden people.
+
+We have taken a fleeting glance at the Land of the Lion and the Sun;
+we must now try and become more intimately acquainted with some of
+its towns and their inhabitants.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+KERMAN
+
+    Short history of Kerman--Its overthrow--City of beggars--Story
+    of the fort--The jackal's "tale of woe."
+
+
+                "A little red worm--the gard'ner's special dread."
+
+                                                                V. Fane.
+
+
+The first view we had of Kerman was a very picturesque one. We had
+been travelling for about twenty days, and on Easter Eve reached a
+lovely garden some four or five hours' ride from Kerman, and here we
+decided to stay for Easter Day. Early on Monday morning we started
+for the last stage of our journey. Just as the sun was rising we
+came to the top of a hill, and there away in the distance lay the
+city of Kerman, the city towards which our hopes and thoughts had
+been tending for so long, as it was the goal to which we had been
+pressing for the past twelve months, and which we fondly hoped was
+to have been our home for many years; but God ordered otherwise.
+
+Kerman is a very interesting old city, having passed through many
+vicissitudes and seen many changes during its varied and chequered
+history. It is also a very pretty place, especially as seen from a
+short distance, surrounded on three sides by the eternal mountains,
+with their ever-changing shades and shadows, and forming a magnificent
+background to the city nestling at their feet. On the fourth side
+the desert stretches away to Yezd and Isphahan.
+
+Kerman is said to have derived its name from a Persian word Kerm,
+meaning a worm, and the legend connected with it is as follows. The
+princess who founded the city was one day walking with her followers
+over the site of the future town, and plucked an apple from a tree:
+upon eating it she found to her disgust and annoyance a worm at
+its core. As she threw it away in anger, she declared that the new
+city should be called Kerm-an, a worm. Kerman is certainly a very
+ancient city: the inhabitants claim that it was a large town in the
+time of Solomon. Whether this is so I do not know. The first time it
+is mentioned in history is by Herodotus. Alexander is said to have
+marched his army through Kerman on his way to India, and Cyrus passed
+that way on his return from India. Perhaps few places have suffered
+more at the hands of invaders than Kerman. It has been sacked at least
+six times, and in 1794 the city was almost entirely destroyed by Agha
+Mohammed Khan. The city was bravely defended by the prince-governor,
+who was one of the last of the Zend dynasty; he sustained a long
+and severe siege, till two-thirds of his troops had perished from
+starvation, and then the city was betrayed treacherously into the
+hands of the enemy and its brave defenders obliged to flee, only to
+meet with a cruel death some two years later from the hands of the
+same oppressor. This incarnation of cruelty, Agha Mohammed Khan, gave
+the city over to the will of his soldiers, who resembled their leader
+in cruelty and barbarity. There was no compassion in his heart, and he
+would listen to none of the entreaties of the unfortunate inhabitants
+for mercy, nor would he withdraw his troops from the city till he had
+received a gift of twenty thousand pairs of human eyes. When these
+were brought to him, he insisted on counting them over himself to
+see if the number was correct, and is reported to have said to the
+trembling man who carried the baskets piled high with these awful
+trophies: "It is a good thing the number is correct; if it had not
+been, your eyes would have gone to make up the exact number." The
+city never recovered from this terrible blow, and to-day Kerman is
+a byword among Persians for its poverty and extraordinary number of
+beggars. If you were to ride through the bazaars you would be struck
+by the tremendous number of beggars, all holding out their hands,
+beseeching you for the love of God to give them a copper.
+
+There is a quaint saying among the beggars which one hears very often;
+it is as follows:--
+
+
+            "Khuda guft, 'Beddeh,'
+            Shaitan guft, 'Neddeh'"
+
+
+(God says, "Give"; Satan says, "Don't give").
+
+
+
+Just outside Kerman are the remains of two old fortresses, the larger
+of which is called the Galah i Doukhta, or the Fort of the Maiden,
+doubtless on account of the story connected with it.
+
+These fortresses were built on small hills, and so alike are they in
+formation and colour to the soil that it is difficult to see where
+the castle begins and the hill ends. Between these two old fortresses
+lie the ruins of ancient Kerman. This city was the last to fall under
+the Moslem sway in its invasion of Persia, and the legend connected
+with it is interesting.
+
+The city was surrounded on all hands by the Moslem invaders, and it
+seemed as if the enemy would be obliged to retreat, as its defenders
+had withdrawn themselves into the castles or fortresses already
+mentioned. These had been well provisioned for a long siege in
+case of need, and also were connected with the outer world by means
+of underground passages, known only to those in the castles. All,
+perhaps, might have gone well but for the fact that there lived in
+the fortress a beautiful woman--alas! as treacherous as beautiful. She
+was the idolised daughter of the king of the castle; nothing was too
+good for this loved and spoilt beauty. Her father showered gifts upon
+her--gold, jewellery, silks, all were hers; and it is said that just
+before the siege began her father had planned and designed a beautiful
+garden for her, such as never had been seen before.
+
+Being so loved and such a favourite of all, she was allowed to roam at
+will within the castle walls, and often beguiled the time by watching
+the besiegers who lay far below in the plain. One day her attention
+was attracted by a handsome Arab general, who always seemed to be
+foremost in all that was going on, leading his men into the most
+dangerous and exposed parts. Where the arrows fell fastest and most
+often, there this Arab prince was sure to be seen, always brave and
+courageous. His bravery, added to his good looks, so appealed to this
+spoilt and petted woman that she immediately fell in love with him. Day
+by day this love increased, till her whole soul was afire with all the
+abandon of an Eastern love, and she felt that nothing could or should
+keep her from her hero. "Love" soon found means of communicating
+with the object of its affection, for love is stronger than barred
+or barricaded fortresses. By some means, known only to herself and
+one other, she gave this Arab to understand that if only he would
+promise to marry her, she would deliver the castle into his hands.
+
+The Eastern as well as the Western agree that "All is fair in love
+and war," so this general of the East consented to this plan, and
+agreed to accept victory at the hands of treachery.
+
+Accordingly, all was arranged satisfactorily to both parties,
+and one dark, moonless night the deed was done. The lady of the
+castle, the idolised and beloved of all, became the betrayer of her
+people. After all had retired to rest that night, and the sentinels
+were lost in the dense darkness, she stealthily crept out of the
+castle, safely passed the sleeping men supposed to be on guard, and
+opened the secret gate to her lover and his soldiers--the enemies
+of her father and her country. A terrible massacre ensued, in which
+the father was slain, fortunately dying without the knowledge of his
+daughter's base action. The prince-general had given strict orders
+to his men that on no account was the girl to be touched during the
+attack on the castle, but that she was to be conducted to a place of
+safety till all was over. At last, in the early hours of the morning,
+the general had time to think of his ward.
+
+Tired out with his work of bloodshed and slaughter, but rejoicing in
+his unexpected victory, he sent for the girl to find out the reason
+of her willingness to thus betray her own people and land into the
+hands of the enemy. When brought into his presence he was amazed at the
+beauty and loveliness of the girl before him, and his heart went out in
+great love and admiration towards her. She, still thinking only of her
+own wicked infatuation, was congratulating herself that now her heart's
+desire was to be granted her, and she would soon become the wife of
+the man so long idealised and idolised. But alas! for her fair hopes.
+
+The general, notwithstanding her beauty, desired to find out what
+her motive was for doing as she had done, and so he plied her with
+questions. "Was she very unhappy?" "Was her father very cruel to
+her?" or "Had she done this to avenge herself for some wrong?" To all
+these she replied in the negative. "Then, in the name of wonder, what
+was your reason for sacrificing father, home, country and all?" cried
+the general. "For love of you," answered the now frightened girl,
+and she then told him how kind her father had been to her, how he
+had done all in his power to make her happy, and how nothing was ever
+denied her that he could possibly procure, but assured him that all
+this was as nothing to her compared to the great love which she felt
+towards him, her lover, and ended by beseeching him, now that she
+had sacrificed all for him, not to cast her away.
+
+At this the general was so disgusted and enraged with her, that he
+determined that she must die, and cast about in his mind for some means
+of death worthy of her selfishness and wickedness, "for," said he,
+"you are not a woman, you are a fiend, and therefore must die."
+
+He therefore ordered his men to bind her with cords, face downwards,
+on to the back of a wild horse, and to turn horse and its rider into
+the desert. This order was carried out amidst heartrending cries
+and entreaties for mercy from the girl, but to all the general paid
+no heed, declaring that she was only suffering a just death for the
+abominable behaviour to her own people. The soldiers followed the
+horse for some distance into the desert to prevent its returning,
+and thus perished the beautiful traitress of Kerman.
+
+I may say here that this form of death is not unknown even now in
+Persia, and I heard a story of a man who treated his wife in much
+the same way, only the idea was perhaps a little more diabolical. He
+was angry with her for some reason, and desired to rid himself of
+her, so he caught a cow, and kept it shut up without water for some
+days. Then he bound his wife under the body of the animal and sent
+it off. Of course the cow made for the nearest stream, and we can
+imagine better than describe the fate of the poor woman.
+
+The Kerman of to-day is a large walled-in city of about forty thousand
+souls. This wall is pierced by some dozen gates, some of which are
+in good repair, but others are fast falling into ruin. In fact,
+most of the buildings in Kerman, as well as other parts of Persia,
+are "kharab shodeh"--that is, either in ruins, or fast falling into
+that state. The "kharab" buildings outside the town are the abode of
+jackals, hyęnas, owls, and other creatures of the desert.
+
+The story of how the jackals came to be inhabiters of the desert is
+told by the Kermanis with great gusto, and they quite sympathise with
+them in their banishment from the civilisation of town life. When
+in Kerman our house was outside the city, so we had the full benefit
+of the cries and wailings of these jackals, and at first it used to
+make me feel quite creepy, but after a time we became more accustomed
+to the weird music of the night, and missed the evening concerts when
+absent from Kerman. Sometimes the jackals would come right up into our
+garden, at other times their howling would come from the desert, like
+the far-away cry of a soul in torment, or the wailing of the banshee;
+but all night and every night the wailing, wailing went on, always
+crying for what they had not and never could have--never satisfied,
+and always letting people know the fact!
+
+The story of the dispute between the jackals and the dogs of Kerman was
+told me soon after our arrival there. It is said that, in olden days,
+the jackals were the domesticated pets of the inhabitants of the town,
+and lived quite happily and contentedly in their respective homes,
+always enjoying security and peace within the closed gates, while
+the dogs had to be content to be dwellers of the desert and ruins,
+outside the walls of the city. One day the dogs awoke to the fact
+that the jackals had much the better time of it, and they did not
+see why this unequal state of things should remain. They were tired
+of being always outsiders, always short of food, and exposed to all
+the chances of wind and weather--so they resolved to make a great
+effort to obtain a position inside the gates, where there was plenty
+of everything. Being Socialists, they believed in the maxim of "share
+and share alike," so they called a committee to consider by what means
+they could oust the jackals from their comfortable quarters and install
+themselves in their places. After due thought and much discussion,
+they determined to send some leading representatives to the city to
+interview the jackals. This they accordingly did, telling them that
+many of the dogs had been ill, and the doctor had ordered change of
+air for three days. Would not the noble jackals allow their humble
+neighbours the dogs to exchange places with them just for three days,
+in order that the invalids might have a chance of recovering their
+strength and health. At the same time they enlarged upon the beauties
+of the desert air, which they said would be so good for those who
+had been cooped up in the stifling city for so long. The jackals,
+after long and careful consideration, agreed to this proposition,
+arranging to leave their comfortable homes for three days only, at the
+expiration of which time all were to return to their original places.
+
+The next night the change was accomplished, and in the morning the
+people were all surprised to see dogs where the night before there
+had been jackals. However, they did not object very much. At the end
+of the three nights, the jackals came to the gates of the city and
+demanded admission, longing to return to their own haunts and homes,
+having found three days in the desert quite enough, there being no
+comparison between the comforts of the town and the dreariness and
+cold of the outside life. The dogs appreciated the change so much
+that they answered, "No, thank you, we prefer to stay where we are,
+and do not wish ever to return to the desert." So the poor jackals
+saw that they had been fooled, and went away sad and sorrowful, and
+every night since then have come howling for admission to the gates,
+and on the dogs answering "No," they go away wailing. And that is
+the reason why every night we can hear the howling and wailing of
+these disappointed creatures. And they will probably go on howling
+and wailing till the end of time, for the dogs are never likely to
+wish to return to the desert life.
+
+Such is the legend of the jackals and the dogs of Kerman.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+PERSIAN INDUSTRIES
+
+    Carpet-making--How to tell a good carpet--How
+    to make a carpet--The cry of the children--Shawl
+    manufactures--Calico-printing--Brass-work--Agricultural
+    industries--Water disputes--Kanāts--Poppy crops--Wheat and
+    corn--Tobacco-growing.
+
+
+         Saying in Persia--"One plum gets colour by looking at another."
+
+
+           "Do ye hear the children weeping, O my brothers,
+                Ere the sorrow comes with years;
+            They are leaning their young heads against their mothers,
+                And that cannot stop their tears;
+                    ... the child's sob in the silence curses deeper
+                Than the strong man in his wrath."
+
+                                                         E. B. Browning.
+
+
+The subject of the industries of Persia is such an extensive one that
+I cannot even attempt to discuss it here at any great length. I only
+wish to describe a few of the manufactures and industries which came
+under our notice while in Persia.
+
+By far the most interesting of them all, to my mind, are the carpet
+manufactories to be found in many parts. Very few Europeans live for
+any length of time in Persia or other carpet-manufacturing countries
+without being affected by the carpet craze. They may try to fight
+against it, but they are almost sure to succumb, sooner or later!
+
+When choosing a carpet the first thing to do is to make sure that
+the colours are fast. This is done by moistening a handkerchief or
+small piece of white cloth and rubbing the carpet. If the slightest
+tinge of colour comes off, the carpet is not a good one. So much
+depends upon the nature and durability of dyes used. In olden days,
+the only dyes used were indigo, madder, and vine leaves. From these
+three ingredients they were able to mix and make most delicate and
+artistic shades, all of which were "fast" colours. Now, however, the
+aniline dyes are so commonly used that it is difficult to find a carpet
+in which all the colours are permanent. Europeans are often deceived
+when buying carpets, but natives seldom! When the latter invests in
+a carpet he expects it to last the whole of his lifetime, and not
+only of his life, but also of that of his children, grandchildren,
+and great-grandchildren, and perchance be more valuable at the end
+of that period than the day he purchased it. As a rule he realises
+his expectations. When a native buys a new carpet the first thing he
+does with it is to put it down in the bazaars for all the traffic to
+pass over it. The more muddy and filthy the shoes of the passers-by,
+the greater will be the beauty of the carpet afterwards, provided the
+colours are fast. This statement may perhaps refer more especially to
+Syria and Turkish Arabia, but I believe it is also true of Persia. I
+have, myself, often seen carpets laid down in this way in the bazaars
+of Damascus, Beyrout, Baghdad, and Mosul. I could never quite make
+up my mind to allow our carpets to be subjected to this treatment,
+though my husband always assured me it was the only way for the
+carpets to acquire that beautiful silky gloss, so dear to the heart
+of the carpet-lover.  As a matter of fact that gloss is maintained
+by the native custom of leaving the shoes at the door. The constant
+walking upon the carpet with bare or stockinged feet tends to bring
+about this desirable finish: whilst, on the other hand, our barbarous
+custom of wearing dirty shoes in a room is not so good for the carpet,
+nor are tables and chairs great carpet-improvers. Before the time of
+exporting carpets from Persia in any great number only good carpets
+were made, but now the demand is so great that to keep up the supply
+a good deal of shoddy work is manufactured and sent out of the country.
+
+To be a good judge of a carpet you need to be quite an expert. Many
+things have to be taken into consideration. First the dyes, as we
+have already seen; then the number of stitches to the inch must be
+counted, and it is said that a good carpet contains about 10,000
+stitches to the square foot, while some of the better ones have
+as many as 40,000. Another point to notice is to see whether both
+ends are the same width. This is done by doubling the carpet: if
+the ends do not coincide it is not a well-made carpet. Then, again,
+it should lie perfectly flat on the floor, otherwise it will crease
+in a very short time, and be worthless. My husband had a beautiful
+Kerman carpet given to him once: it was valued at £20, and, but for
+the fact that it does not lie flat on the floor, would be worth a
+good deal more. As it is, we have to keep it hanging on the wall,
+where it cannot get "rucked" or creased.
+
+Prices vary, of course, according to the size and make of the
+carpets. Very fair ones, the size of an ordinary hearthrug, can be
+had from £2, 10s. to £8 or £10. Silk ones cost a great deal more,
+but are worth the money. A small silk rug can be bought for £50,
+but they can be obtained any price up to £500 or £1000. A mixture
+of wool and silk is now made to suit the European market, but is not
+so durable as the pure silk ones. It is generally acknowledged that
+the Kurdistan carpets are the best: they are the most expensive,
+being about £3 the square yard. The chief attraction of these lies
+in the fact that they are alike on both sides, and are very smooth
+and fine. Next to these come those made at Kerman, the design being
+quite different to those of Kurdistan. In the Kerman carpets it is
+not at all uncommon to find figures of men and animals, sometimes
+almost life size. Whilst in Kerman we visited one or two of the carpet
+manufactories, and were very much interested in watching the process.
+
+All carpets are, of course, made without machinery of any kind. The
+warp is stretched on a loom, which is merely a frame. The woof
+consists of short threads woven and knotted by hand without the
+aid of a shuttle. When a row is finished it is pressed tightly to
+the rest of the web by means of a comb inserted into the warp. The
+"pile" is regulated by the amount clipped off. For a velvet pile the
+woof is clipped very close, till a perfectly smooth, even surface is
+obtained. The weaver does not see the pattern as he works, as he sits
+with the reverse side of the web towards him. The looms are generally
+kept in an underground vaulted room, often with water running through
+the centre. At each loom three or four workers sit, according to the
+size of the carpet. Sometimes the workers consist of one man and two
+children, and occasionally the owner uses boys and girls only for
+the weaving, one man acting as overseer to the children.
+
+I sat on the high stool by the side of a tiny girl whose fingers
+were working away so fast I could hardly follow her movements. The
+overseer was walking up and down the room, calling out instructions
+to the workers. To me it sounded a horrible, incoherent jumble,
+but the children seemed to understand it perfectly. The overseer
+held in his hand a paper, from which he was apparently reading out
+instructions. Not having a very thorough knowledge of the Persian
+language, it was impossible to follow, but as far as I could make
+out it was something as follows: To No. 1. Three blue threads, one
+white, two green; No. 2. Four yellow, one white; and so on, each child
+repeating after the "master" the instructions given. As it was all said
+in a high-pitched monotone, the result was confusing and deafening,
+but there the little weavers sit, day in, day out, week after week, in
+this damp, gloomy cellar, kept hard at it by the unrelenting overseer.
+
+The children are taken on as "weavers" when very young, some even
+starting when five or six years old. Their hours of work are from
+sunrise to sunset in the summer, and until two or three hours after
+sunset in the winter, and they are paid at the enormous rate of about
+2d. a day, sometimes starting with even less, whilst learning the work.
+
+The consequence of this abominable sweating system is that to-day there
+are hundreds of little children in Kerman, from eight to nine years
+of age, confirmed cripples from rheumatism and other diseases. From
+sitting so long in one position, while still of tender years, amid
+such damp surroundings, their little feet and hands become knotted and
+deformed. They can no longer earn their daily bread, so perforce must
+help to swell the great multitude of beggars who throng the streets
+and bazaars of Kerman.
+
+I once saw a little girl about seven years old sitting by the roadside
+just outside our house. On asking her why she was sitting there all
+alone, her reply was, "Mother sent me to my work (carpet-weaving),
+but my feet hurt me so, I can't walk." She was waiting there whilst
+a companion in work and sorrow ran to try and find some one who would
+carry her friend to the workroom.
+
+When we think of the sufferings of these hundreds of poor innocent
+children, do not our hearts ache with sadness for them? Surely the "Cry
+of the Children" of Kerman will go up to God, and He will have mercy.
+
+In the meantime, because people want cheap Persian carpets, these
+little martyrs must be willing to sacrifice childhood's happy days,
+health, aye, and often life itself, on the altar of cheapness.
+
+Major (now Colonel) Phillott, then acting British Consul in Kerman,
+was so horrified at what he saw of the state of these little sufferers,
+that he determined to start a loom of his own, employing men only to
+do the weaving. This he accordingly did, finding, of course, that
+the expense was enormous, as men's wages were so much higher than
+the children's, and also that they would not consent to such long
+hours. So long as children are to be had for a mere nominal wage,
+so long will the weavers use them, caring nothing for their sorrows,
+only bent on making money--the god of the Persian.
+
+A soft kind of felt carpet is also made in Persia, specially in
+Isphahan and Yezd. These are called Namads. The materials used are
+wools of all kinds, chiefly camel's hair. The colour is a light ochre
+shade of brown, and there is generally a pattern woven in the centre of
+different colours, red predominating. Some of these Namads are an inch
+or more in thickness, and are delightfully soft for walking on. They
+make a splendid foundation in a room for laying carpets on. There
+is yet another kind of rug much used, called the Galeem. These are
+much cheaper than carpets, and are suitable for rough use, such as
+travelling. They wash well, but do not improve with use as carpets do,
+having no pile.
+
+There are still shawl-manufactories to be seen in Kerman, though
+they are rapidly on the decrease. The best kind of shawl sells for
+fifty tumans (about £10) each, but there are others less expensive,
+which resemble the famous Cashmere shawls of India. These "shawls"
+are given as coats of honour by the governor or other high official,
+and are sought after and valued by all. They are woven in much the
+same manner as the carpets, and are made from the under hair of a
+special kind of white goat called "koork," which is only found in
+the neighbourhood of Kerman.
+
+The silks of Persia are very pretty and durable. They are woven
+principally at Yezd, Kashan, and Resht. The latter place is noted, too,
+for its patchwork and embroidery. This work consists of tiny pieces
+of cloth pieced together into some floral or other design. I had two
+or three pieces of this work given me by a Persian gentleman of high
+rank. One is a study in red, and the other consists chiefly of black
+and green, enlivened here and there by bright patches of other colours.
+
+Another rather interesting industry to be seen in Isphahan is the
+calico-printing; this is done by means of blocks, and, as a rule,
+one design covers the whole piece. These prints are used very much
+as curtains, table-cloths, &c., and have the advantage of being
+inexpensive. The natives often use them as shrouds for the dead,
+for which purpose special ones are manufactured, bearing suitable
+quotations from the Koran.
+
+During the summer in Isphahan the bed of the river may be seen
+covered with these prints, laid out to dry in the sun after having
+gone through the process of dyeing and "blocking."
+
+Space forbids my mentioning all the many other articles manufactured
+in Persia--the brass-work of Isphahan, copper-work of Kashan, silver
+of both Isphahan and Shiraz, mosaic also from Shiraz. But enough has
+been said to show that the Persians are a very clever and artistic
+race of people, and considering the primitiveness of their methods and
+implements, the results are astonishingly beautiful and charming. The
+agricultural industries of Persia, too, are considerable--the water
+supply necessary for these being a fruitful source of quarrelling and
+fighting, which sometimes leads even to murder. The labourers whose
+duty it is to look after the watering of the crops are armed with long
+spades, for the purpose of digging trenches and clearing a way for the
+water, &c. In a dispute these spades become very formidable weapons,
+and many a broken head have they caused.
+
+Often when riding in the desert we have met a company of these men
+returning from their labours, each carrying his murderous-looking
+implement on his shoulder, and in the gloaming they resembled an army
+of soldiers marching. The water supply is very often conducted into
+a town or village from the mountains by means of kanāts, or long
+underground passages. Pits are dug at a distance of about 25 feet
+apart, each one being connected with the other by a subterranean
+passage, and so on till the place is reached where the water is
+needed. Sometimes these tunnels extend for many miles, and as the
+mouth of each pit is surrounded by mounds of earth thrown up, it gives
+the appearance of a succession of huge mole-hills running across the
+country. Great loss of life is associated with the sinking of these
+shafts from the constant falling in of the sides; on this account
+very high wages are given to compensate for probable loss of life.
+
+One of the principal crops around Isphahan is that of the poppy. It
+is a beautiful sight to see field after field of these lovely white
+flowers, stretching away for miles, maybe. How sad to think that such
+beauty should lead to misery, wretchedness, and degradation! When the
+poppy is ripe, the "head" is scratched at sunset with a kind of comb
+in three places; from these gashes the opium oozes out. It is then
+collected in the morning before sunrise, dried, and rolled into cakes
+ready either for use in the country or for export. It is calculated
+that about 8000 cases of opium, each case containing some 200 cakes,
+are exported from Persia every year.
+
+Although the growth of opium enriches those directly concerned,
+yet it tends to impoverish the country; for the ground which before
+was cultivated with wheat and corn is now required for the poppy,
+thus making grain much dearer.
+
+There is also a large quantity of tobacco grown in Persia, which is
+used for the "kalian" (or water-pipe) and cigarette smoking. The best
+kind is grown in the neighbourhood of Shiraz.
+
+Wheat and barley are largely grown, and are always reaped with the
+sickle. The land is very fertile, and with very little trouble a good
+crop is obtained, provided the water supply is good.
+
+It has been said of Persia that "it is only necessary to tickle the
+land and it will laugh into blossom."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE CLIMATE OF PERSIA
+
+    Resht, Teheran, Isphahan--Dryness of atmosphere--Cellars--Roof
+    life--Children attacked by jackals--Chequered history of work
+    in Kerman.
+
+
+                "The climate's delicate, the air most sweet."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+When speaking of the climate of Persia, Cyrus is supposed to have said,
+"People perish with cold at one point, while they are suffocated
+with heat at another," and this may be applied equally well to the
+climate of Persia to-day, for every town has a different climate
+according to its height above sea-level. When we land on Persian
+soil from the Caspian we find ourselves some feet below sea-level,
+consequently the climate is very damp, and vegetation is profuse. The
+rainfall in Resht is so great that the wells are often overflowing,
+rain falling during quite two-thirds of the year. Always having
+thought of Persia as a very dry, parched land, our surprise was
+very great on reaching Resht, the port on the Caspian, to see such
+lovely forests of trees, and flowers in abundance, both wild and
+cultivated. Primroses, anemones, periwinkles, cyclamen, and many
+other kinds of flowers, all were in bloom as we drove through Resht
+on our way to Isphahan. The ferns, too, were splendid, maiden-hair and
+ox-tongue being especially beautiful. With all these homelike flowers
+and ferns around us, we could hardly realise that we were not driving
+through some dear Devonshire lane in Old England. But as we mounted,
+higher and ever higher over the Elburz Mountains, we soon lost this
+English type of scenery. The climate became dry and warm, till by the
+time we reached Teheran we were thankful indeed for the shelter of the
+comfortable quarters of our American friends, who extended to us the
+most hospitable kindness during our stay in that city. The climate of
+Teheran is very good; its winters are pleasantly cold, and the summer
+heat is not so overpoweringly great as in other places. Then, too,
+there are lovely summer gardens near at hand, whither the residents can
+retire during the warm months of the year. And for those who love the
+mountain heights there is the beautiful and picturesque Mount Demavend,
+rising some 19,400 feet above sea-level. This mountain adds greatly
+to the beauty of Teheran, both as regards its scenery and climate. It
+stands as a sentinel guarding the valley in which Teheran lies, and
+has an ever-changing beauty of its own, with its eternal snows catching
+and reflecting all the radiant hues of the rising and setting sun. It
+also forms a most valuable health resort and summer retreat for all the
+heat-wearied ones of the neighbourhood. This is the highest mountain
+in Persia, but there are many others from 10,000 to 13,000 feet high,
+so, if necessary, a cool climate is to be found at all times of the
+year. Once over the Elburz, the whole of Persia is a high plateau land,
+till we descend once more to the shores of the Persian Gulf.
+
+Isphahan has a very pleasant climate; the winters are cold and bright,
+and it is possible to enjoy sitting out in the sunshine most of the
+winter months. The mornings and evenings are cold, but the days are
+delightful during the sunshine. The atmosphere here, as elsewhere in
+Persia, is very dry, and one's skin gets very cracked and "chapped,"
+not from the cold, but from the dryness of the air. This is the
+cause, too, of much "nerve" trouble amongst the Europeans, especially,
+perhaps, with the ladies. In the winter the natives warm themselves and
+their rooms by means of a "korsi" (literally, a chair). This "korsi"
+is a contrivance for giving warmth at a minimum cost. A hole is dug in
+the floor of the room in which the whole family live. Into this hole
+is put a clay or iron firepan full of lighted charcoal: above this,
+the "korsi," a wooden frame varying in size according to the number
+of the family, is placed, and over all is spread a large "lahaf" or
+padded quilt. All round the "korsi" are placed soft mattresses and
+cushions, and here the family pass the time eating, sleeping, talking;
+the "korsi" acting as a dining-table and the "lahaf" as a covering
+by day and night. This arrangement is very unhealthy, but the natives
+love it, and the more friends and relations they can gather round the
+"korsi" the happier they are.
+
+The summers at Isphahan are rather warm, but there are many places near
+by, which are cool, pleasant, and within easy distance for those whose
+business keeps them in the vicinity of the town during the hot season.
+
+There is always plenty of ice to be had during the summer here--perhaps
+not always of the cleanest, but still good enough for the purpose
+of cooling fruits and drinks. The native method of making ice is
+rather clever. A "yakh khaneh" or ice-house is generally situated
+outside the town or near some running water: a trench is dug some two
+or three feet deep, and a wall from twenty to forty feet is built
+facing north and south, thus shielding the trench from all rays of
+the sun. As soon as frost sets in, an inch or two of water is let
+into the trench: this freezes during the night, and the next day
+more water is diverted into the hole, on top of the ice. This is
+repeated several days in succession, till about a foot or more of
+ice is formed. This is then broken up and stored in deep caverns or
+wells for use during the summer. The process is continued as long
+as the frost lasts, and thus there is generally enough to keep the
+town supplied with ice during the great heat. Well-to-do Persians
+have their own "yakh khanehs," and others use them for a means of
+livelihood. If the supply runs short before the hot season is over,
+frozen snow is brought from the mountains; but this is very expensive,
+as it has to be brought such a long distance.
+
+Yezd has a much warmer "hot season" than Isphahan, and the heat is
+much more trying and of longer duration. The houses are essentially
+summer houses. The winters being shorter and much less severe, little
+attention is paid to the comforts necessary for cold weather, but
+everything is considered which will add to the coolness and airiness
+of the houses.
+
+As a traveller approaches Yezd he cannot fail to be struck by the
+number of tall "chimneys" rising from the city, and he almost fancies
+he is approaching some large manufacturing town, and speculates perhaps
+as to the nature of the manufactures possible in such a sandy city of
+the desert. But as he draws nearer he sees there is no smoke rising
+from these "chimneys," and so concludes that, after all, they are
+not for manufacturing purposes. What, then, is the purpose of all
+those tall, square, chimney-like buildings, appearing from the roofs
+of nearly all the dwelling-places of Yezd? They are air shafts, built
+with the hope of bringing a little cool air into the houses during the
+hot season, when the atmosphere below is so stifling that it seems
+impossible to breathe. These structures are called "bād geers," or
+"wind-catchers." There was a very large one connected with the house
+in which we lived in Yezd, and even on the hottest days, some air
+was always to be felt coming from the "bād geer." It was so arranged
+in our house that after the air had been caught and brought down by
+means of the chimney, it passed over a "hoze" (tank of water), and
+in this way was cooled before circulating through the house. Another
+aid to bearing the heat in Yezd is the custom of spending the middle
+part of the day underground in cellars.
+
+Some of these cellars are quite palatial, the walls and floors
+being made from the famous Yezd marble, which closely resembles
+alabaster. One such I remember very well: it was a room about 40 feet
+by 30 feet, very lofty, and lit from the top by windows on a level with
+the ground above. In the centre of this room was a "hoze" (water tank),
+of which the Persians are so fond, and rising from the water was a
+fountain capable of playing to the height of 30 feet; a large bowl
+turned upside down had been fixed on the ceiling to catch the spray
+and prevent it from becoming damp. Here the inmates of the house took
+their mid-day siesta, and very charmingly cool it was compared to the
+upstairs world. Some cellars are not at all healthy, and, if slept in
+during the day, the sleepers are very liable to contract malaria or
+some other fever. When dry and well ventilated no harm seems to come
+from this custom of retiring underground during the great heat of
+the day, and certainly a good cellar is a great boon to a European,
+and a great blessing when the thermometer registers 110 in the shade
+upstairs, while in the cellar it rarely goes above 86 or 90 degrees.
+
+Scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas, and suchlike creatures have a good
+time in Yezd. The climate agrees with them, and they thrive and enjoy
+life to an alarming extent. One day my husband killed three scorpions
+within the hour, two of which were the poisonous black kind. Tarantulas
+abounded inside the house and out. They always seemed to make a point
+of running across my path during prayer times; to say the least it is
+very disconcerting to see one of these creatures glide softly past you
+with the evident intention of seeking shelter under your skirt! Our
+cat always used to make a dart directly he saw any of these tarantulas,
+just to draw our attention to them, but he would never kill one.
+
+From life in the cellar we pass to life on the roof. This was often
+the most enjoyable part of the day. It is lovely, when the heat of
+the day is over, to lie and watch the stars, knowing that the same
+stars were watching over our loved ones in the Homeland.
+
+Sleeping on the roof had its disadvantages as well as its attractions
+and advantages. One great disadvantage is the fact that the sun
+wakes you up so early; another, the talking and singing which goes on
+all round you from the adjoining roofs, often make it difficult to
+sleep. In addition there is this very serious drawback, that often
+the jackals visit the roofs of the houses at night, seeking for
+something wherewith to appease their hunger, and if they cannot find
+anything else to satisfy them will attack sleeping children. On several
+occasions poor little mites have been brought to the hospital terribly
+mutilated and torn by the jackals, some just slightly bitten on the
+face, others so mauled and eaten as to be quite unrecognisable. One
+especially sad case I remember; the poor mother was wild with grief,
+for her child, a baby of only a few weeks old, had been almost eaten
+up by these abominable creatures.
+
+Life on the roof begins soon after sunset. It is very interesting to
+watch, from a height, roof-life springing into existence. First one
+and then another will bring out the family bedding, spread it on the
+floor of the roof or on low wooden benches, and then sit and chat
+till dinner-time. Very often the evening meal is eaten on the roof,
+and shortly after the family retires to rest. A Moslem takes great
+pains to have his roof well shielded from the gaze of onlookers, and
+if he is at all suspicious that he is overlooked he will immediately
+raise his wall. This being the case, the roofs in a Moslem quarter
+are generally very much shut in by high walls, which keep out the
+air and make the nights much less bearable.
+
+The climate of Kerman is almost perfect for those who can stand
+it. Situated about 6500 feet above the sea, surrounded on all sides
+by mountains and deserts, the result is a delightful bracing air
+and invigorating climate. In Kerman there is no need of resting in
+cellars by day or sleeping on roofs by night. Indeed the climate would
+be hard to beat anywhere. The winters are charming, bright and cold,
+with snow-covered mountains always in view. For a month or two in the
+summer it becomes fairly hot, when flies and mosquitoes nearly drive
+one wild, but it is generally possible to get away for a little time,
+and during the remainder of the year the climate is all that could be
+desired. And yet it seems strange that in spite of all this Europeans
+have found it difficult to live there.
+
+Our mission in its infancy had a very chequered career, owing to the
+breaking down in health of its missionaries. The first to open the
+work there was a Mr. Carless, a clergyman of the Church of England. He
+went there a young man in the vigour of youth, and at the end of three
+years, having gained the love and admiration of Moslem and Parsee
+alike, he was laid in a solitary grave away in the desert, in a valley
+surrounded by hills. After a short time his work was taken up by a
+Mr. and Mrs. Blackett, but the latter was able to remain only a few
+short months, at the end of which time she returned to England, broken
+down and shattered in health. Then my husband was appointed to open
+Medical Mission work there. Unfortunately, before the year was out,
+we too had to leave, this time on account of my health. During our
+stay there an English engineer came to seek for artesian wells. After
+two or three months he contracted fever and died at our house, and he
+too is resting in that quiet spot amongst the mountains by the side of
+Mr. Carless. On our leaving, another doctor was appointed to take my
+husband's post, but his stay in Kerman was not even as long as ours had
+been. And so it seemed as if the work there could not be carried on,
+but fortunately this chapter of accidents has now come to an end,
+for our missionaries have been living and working there for some
+three or four years. All agree, too, in saying that the climate is
+a very healthy one, provided the people living there have sound hearts!
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+HOLIDAYS IN PERSIA
+
+    How to ensure a prosperous journey--Natanz--Astonishment of natives
+    at sight of hairpins--Pulivagoon--Mahoon--Aliabād--Prince under
+    canvas--Visit from a Persian princess--A Persian deer-hunt.
+
+
+                       "If all the year were playing holidays,
+                        To sport would be as tedious as to work."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+In a climate such as has been described in the foregoing chapter,
+it is necessary for the sake of health to get away during a part of
+the hot season. Fortunately there are suitable places near at hand to
+each of the large cities, so it is no very difficult matter to get
+away for a few weeks. The difficulties lie rather in reaching these
+places, and in transporting all one's belongings--at least all those
+that are absolutely necessary--to the place chosen.
+
+After having decided upon the desirability of having a holiday, the
+next thing is to fix a day of departure. This sounds easy to say. Yes,
+it is quite a simple matter for you to say, "We will start on such
+and such a day," but you are perhaps reckoning without considering
+your muleteer. On the morning appointed you rise early, see that
+everything is in readiness, and then sit down to wait for the baggage
+animals to arrive. Time goes on, the sun begins to get hot, and no
+sign of the muleteer or mules, so by-and-by you send your servant to
+investigate matters, and he brings back with him the muleteer, who
+smiles sweetly and says, "Ensha'allah farda (to-morrow, God willing)
+we will start on our journey." His mules have gone to a village, and
+will be back "ensha'allah farda." We can console ourselves that very
+likely the same thing will occur again on the next day. It is always
+"farda" with these people, so we must try to possess our souls in
+patience, and hope for the best. Persians are never in a hurry, and
+cannot understand why it should make any difference whether we start
+"to-day" or "to-morrow." Oh, those endless "fardas"! how tired we got
+of them before we had been very long in the land. But it is good to
+learn patience, and the sooner you have mastered this lesson well,
+the happier will you be living in the East.
+
+Preparing for a holiday in Persia is rather a different matter to
+starting off at home for the seaside or elsewhere. Everything has to
+be taken--pots and pans, tables, chairs, beds and bedding--in fact,
+everything that is necessary for four or five weeks' stay in a house
+where nothing is provided but the bare walls. It is wonderful what a
+number of things are necessary even for a short stay, in the so-called
+simple life.
+
+The natives are very superstitious about many things when starting on
+a journey. For instance, it is very unlucky, in their eyes, to proceed
+if any of the party happens to sneeze on the point of starting. They
+would much rather postpone the start for a more propitious occasion,
+than disregard this bad omen. I heard of one man who insisted on
+continuing his journey in spite of the warning given in the form of
+a sneeze, and the consequence was he fell off his mule and broke his
+leg! The natives also are careful to have a good supply of copper coins
+ready when starting on a journey, to give to the beggars. Whenever
+we left home our servants always distributed freely to the poor who
+were living around, to ensure a blessing on our journey, but they
+never forgot to put the amount down in the daily account!
+
+While in Persia we had some very enjoyable holidays, but as I could
+not endure the altitude we were never able to go to the mountains,
+which of course make the ideal summer resorts. However, we managed
+to find some very pretty and fairly cool places in the plains or on
+slightly elevated ground. Our first holiday in Persia was spent in a
+very pretty little village called Natanz. I had been taken ill on our
+way to Isphahan, and the lady doctor who came out to meet us suggested
+our going for a week or so to this little village before entering
+Isphahan. Spring was already well advanced, and it is difficult to
+recruit in the hot season.
+
+Natanz is a picturesque little village, slightly off the general route,
+so that the natives had not then become very much used to Feringhis
+staying with them, and our coming caused no little excitement. We
+arrived there about twelve o'clock one night, and were conducted to
+our room by an admiring throng, and this throng continued to "admire"
+for the whole time we were there. The windows of our room were
+composed of lattice work only, so all interested could always have a
+good view of our movements. On waking in the morning there were our
+faithful followers to be seen with their faces flattened against the
+trellis work, waiting for us to wake, and see what we were going to
+do next! At times this interest shown on the part of the inhabitants
+was a trifle embarrassing, but as often as they were driven away by
+our servant just as often did they return again whenever his back
+was turned. For the first day or two I did not leave the room, but
+when I felt stronger I used to sit in a chair outside the window
+reading or writing. The moment my husband left me the women all
+swarmed round like bees, full of curious questions. Unfortunately at
+that time I was not able to talk to them, not knowing the language,
+but I could make out what they were saying to a great extent from
+their gestures. My fountain pen was a cause of great amusement and
+astonishment, as were also my hairpins. The delight of some of the
+women on being presented with a hairpin was very funny. They seemed to
+think I stuck them into my head, as into a pincushion. At first the
+women were rather shy, as they could not be quite sure whether I was
+a man or a woman, but one of them came and peeped under my hat and
+seeing I had long hair concluded I was a woman. My husband received
+a visit from the governor of the village, who was very delighted to
+see an English hakeem. We were quite sorry when our little holiday
+in Natanz was over, but being anxious to push on to Isphahan, did
+not care to prolong our stay longer than was necessary.
+
+Our next holiday was in the summer of the same year 1900. This time
+we went only a few hours' drive out of Isphahan to a place called
+Pulivagoon. It was a very pretty little village, and a nice house,
+belonging to the Zil es Sultan, had been lent to us for a month. The
+house was built practically on the river, as our windows hung right
+over the water, and the sound of its rushing torrent reminded us of the
+lapping of the waves on the seashore in dear Old England. There were
+some lovely woods near by, to which we often used to take our tea,
+and pass the time pleasantly paddling, bathing, and fishing in the
+river. The following year we were at Kerman, and went for our holidays
+to a lovely garden about nine hours' ride from the city. Mahoon lies
+very high; it must be at least 6700 feet above sea-level. The climate
+is beautiful, but the altitude proved too high for me to enjoy it
+much. We had a very tiring ride from Kerman; starting one day soon
+after noon we rode for three or four hours, then had a refreshing cup
+of tea under the shadow of a large spreading tree. But we could not
+afford to linger, for we still had a good half of our journey before
+us, so once more we mounted our respective steeds, hoping to reach
+our destination about nine o'clock, but alas for our hopes! Nine
+o'clock came and went, and still we seemed no nearer; ten o'clock,
+and still no sign of our village. It was now pitch dark, and we
+were all very tired and hungry, and I was so dead beat that I could
+hardly sit upright on my animal. My husband rode close by my side,
+to be in readiness in case I should fall off in my sleep. To the
+oft-repeated question, "How much farther?" the answer always came,
+"Ensha'allah--only half-an-hour." Oh, those half-hours, how wearisome
+they became! I did so wish that they would say two hours or three hours
+for a change, for the everlasting half-hour was so tantalising. Our
+servants told me afterwards that they said this to keep up my spirits,
+as they thought, if they told the truth about the distance, "the
+Khanum's heart would melt within her." At last, just after midnight,
+we heard a very energetic coo-ing ahead of us, and knew that at
+last we were within sound of rest and food. It was so dark that we
+could not find the path leading to the garden, and our animals went
+floundering about over great boulders of stones or stumbling into
+ditches, and of course all in the wrong direction, till some one met
+us and conducted our tired party into the house. Here we found that
+our baggage animals, with Bagi and the other servants, had not yet
+turned up, though they had started an hour or two before us. They did
+not arrive till morning, so there was nothing for it but to lie down
+on bare boards and go to sleep supperless. The only drinking vessel
+to be found was a saucepan, from which we had a most refreshing drink
+of water and retired to our luxurious couch, sleeping as well and as
+soundly as if we were lying on beds of softest down. We were awakened
+about eight o'clock next morning by the sound of bells, and knew that
+our belated caravan had come in. While they were settling disputes
+and unpacking we strolled off into the garden to dip our faces into
+the cool water that was flowing through the grounds. It was, or rather
+had been, a magnificent garden, but, like everything else in Persia,
+was even then fast falling into decay. There was water in abundance,
+flowing on both sides, and fountains playing on the top terrace and
+also at the foot of the garden. The whole garden was built in a series
+of terraces, and steps led from one level to the next. The houses and
+gardens had been built by H.H. Farman Farma, at one time governor of
+Kerman, and must have cost a great deal of money.
+
+We took up our quarters in the house at the top of the garden, and
+after a few days our consul came out from Kerman and occupied the
+lower one. We spent a very enjoyable month here, riding, shooting,
+bathing, &c. My husband opened a dispensary for the villagers,
+to which he went two mornings each week, and the people appreciated
+this very much, as I do not think they had ever had an English doctor
+amongst them before. We much enjoyed the use of the Persian "hammam"
+(bath) while there. It comprised a series of rooms built a little way
+off from the house; each room was built of marble and blue tiles. The
+first or outer room was simply for resting in, having a fountain in
+the centre; passing through this, you entered a large vaulted room,
+which was used for a dressing-room and "cooling-down" place; from this
+you passed to the actual hammam, which was a large tank of water about
+15 feet by 10 feet, and from 1 to 6 feet deep, shelving gradually in
+depth from the edge. This had not been used for some years apparently,
+but my husband had it cleaned out and filled with fresh water, and
+we were very thankful for it during the hot weather. At first we
+tried taking our afternoon siesta in the outer or resting-room, but
+found it too feverish; however, we were able to sit in it during the
+early part of the day, and generally had our Persian lesson there,
+as it was easier to work in the cool. We always made our holidays
+a time for language study, as my husband rarely could find time for
+it while at work in the city, and we both longed to be able to speak
+Persian properly. I must say the natives were always wonderfully good
+and patient over our mistakes, and never laughed, however terrible
+and feeble our attempts at conversation might be. Unfortunately,
+just as we were beginning to feel our way in Persian a little, we
+had to start learning a new language, so to a great extent we have
+forgotten our Persian.
+
+Our last holiday in Persia was spent in Aliabād, a dear little village
+about ten hours' drive from Yezd. H.R.H. the Jalal el Dowleh (nephew
+of the late Shah) kindly lent us a house there, and as it was rather
+a small one, he erected a large tent in the garden for us, which did
+duty as dining and sitting-room combined. The Jalal also kindly lent
+us one of his carriages to drive from Yezd to Aliabād. The first part
+of the way the road was very good. We left Yezd just before sunset,
+reaching our half-way place shortly before midnight. Here we had to
+rest the horses till morning, so we spent the night in a garden by
+permission of the owner. Spreading a rug on the ground, and using
+two of the carriage cushions as pillows, we spent a very comfortable
+night, and awoke in the early morning fresh and ready for the second
+part of our journey. We were off before sunrise, as we wished to reach
+our destination before the great heat of the day began. I shall never
+forget that drive. For the greater part of the way there was not even a
+semblance of a road, and the whole path was strewn with huge stones and
+boulders; it was a marvel to me how the carriage ever got safely over
+them. But oh, the jolting and the shaking! Driving up the Pyramids
+would be smooth and easy compared to the horrors of that road! We
+repented often of having accepted the kind offer of the carriage, as
+the saddle is much more preferable on such roads. However, all things
+come to an end to those who have patience; so at last this memorable
+drive ended, and we were very thankful, about ten o'clock, to see the
+trees of our village rising on the horizon. We found the little house
+very comfortably arranged and breakfast waiting for us in the tent,
+as our servants had pushed on instead of resting during the night.
+
+Aliabād contained, I suppose, some fifty houses, all of which were
+occupied by Moslems of rather a fanatical type. It was surrounded on
+all sides by mountains and hills, and this gave it a rather shut-in
+feeling at times. After sunset, too, it was very chilly and damp, as
+there were so many gardens lying under water at that time, this being
+the usual method of irrigation. I wanted to make the acquaintance of
+the village women, so I let it be known that I should generally be
+in the garden during the morning, and should welcome all who came
+to see me. In this way I saw most of the women, but they were not
+very responsive on the whole. It was here, sitting in the garden one
+morning, that I tried to learn from them how to "tell the beads"
+according to the Moslem method, but I found it too intricate and
+difficult. I managed, however, to master one very simple method of
+trying the beads for good or ill fortune. This was as follows: holding
+the rosary before you in both hands, you separate a certain number of
+the beads; then, closing your eyes, you "tell" them, repeating the
+mystic words "Adam, Eve, Satan," until the last bead is reached. If
+this happens to be "Adam," the luck is sure to be of the best; if
+"Eve," the result is neutral, and the beads must be counted again;
+while "Satan" indicates the worst of fortune, and would absolutely
+prevent any one from undertaking any contemplated action.
+
+It was no uncommon sight to see the women counting their beads and
+mumbling to themselves, "Adam, Hava, Shaitan (Adam, Eve, Satan), Adam,
+Hava, Shaitan," before making up their minds as to whether they should
+drink their medicine or not. Or perhaps some patient has been advised
+an operation, and he is trying his beads to see whether the doctor's
+advice is to be taken or not. It is a strange thing that, when they
+very badly want to do a thing, they can generally make it come to
+"Adam," or else they keep on repeating the words till it does come
+to the lucky name, and then they are happy.
+
+When we had been in Aliabād some days the prince-governor of Yezd
+brought his "anderoon" to the same village. Of course there was no
+accommodation for them in the village, so they erected a town for
+themselves. It sprang up in one night, and looked in the morning as
+if a large company of soldiers had suddenly come along and fixed their
+camp. The ladies' quarters consisted of about twenty large tents, and
+were enclosed by a huge canvas wall, quite shutting them off from the
+outside world. The prince had his reception tents and others outside
+the wall, but quite near to it.
+
+A day or two after their arrival the princess sent down her carriage
+for me, with a request that I would go and see her, which I gladly did,
+and found her surrounded by all her home comforts, and dressed, as
+usual, in some lovely silk costume. After this she always sent for me
+about three times a week, and we had walks and talks together. Whenever
+we came to a garden, she and her ladies always gathered the cucumbers
+and onions and ate them, thoroughly enjoying the impromptu picnic,
+and never giving a thought to the poor unfortunate owner, who dared
+not voice a remonstrance, however much his garden was stripped of
+its produce.
+
+A eunuch or two always went before when the princess walked out, to
+warn off any of the dreaded menkind who happened to be about. One
+day the prince gave permission for his wife to come and call upon
+me. This was the first time she had ever been allowed to pay a
+visit. I was sorry we were not in our own house, as I should have
+liked to show her an English home. However, we made the place as
+tidy and home-like as possible for her reception. My husband had to
+be banished, and also all the men-servants. Bagi (our woman servant)
+prepared all the refreshments, but the princess's own servants handed
+them to her, as Bagi was a Parsee, and it would have meant defilement
+for a Moslem to take food from a despised follower of Zoroaster.
+
+The prince spent most of his time hunting, and my husband went with
+him on several occasions. The sport did not seem to be very exciting,
+from all accounts. The Jalal would take with him about thirty to forty
+of his followers, and form a kind of cordon round the spot where the
+gazelles were known to be; they then gradually closed in, each rider
+knowing and keeping his own position. At last the gazelles would be
+sighted, and all would gallop madly towards the spot, and shoot as
+they got within range.
+
+We were kept so well supplied with venison during those holidays that
+I felt I never wanted to taste it again!
+
+Quite near to Aliabād there were some large caves in which the natives
+had stored frozen snow, so that even in the height of summer we were
+able to have a large block of ice every day.
+
+Altogether our time at this little village was very enjoyable, and
+we were quite sorry when our holiday was over and we had to return
+to the broiling heat of Yezd.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+SOCIAL LIFE IN PERSIA
+
+    Kerman--House-hunting and building--White ants--Housekeeping
+    in Kerman--Servant question--Truth v. falsehood--Abdul
+    Fateh--Bagi--Recreations--Some exciting rides--Persian
+    etiquette--Dinner at the governor's.
+
+
+                    "Society is no comfort to one not sociable."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+The social life of Europeans in Persia differs very much according to
+the town lived in. In some parts much life and gaiety are to be found,
+and in others this element is conspicuous by its absence. In Teheran,
+where we have our Legation, of course social life is at its height. At
+Isphahan, too, there is quite a large European community. When we were
+there in 1900 and 1903 there must have been at least fifty Europeans,
+and very happily and sociably all lived together. From Isphahan we
+went to Kerman, where for some five or six months we were the only
+foreigners, but in spite of having none of our own countrymen to call
+upon or visit, we were very happy. After a time a British consul was
+appointed, and we felt quite gay, and I at once started a European
+"at home" day, and every Wednesday our consul was a most regular
+visitor. He was always very homesick, and liked anything that helped
+to remind him of dear Old England.
+
+On one occasion we actually mustered four Englishmen to dinner,
+as two travellers happened to be passing through at the same time,
+one of whom was Mr. Savage Landor, who entertained us with most
+harrowing accounts of his time amongst the Thibetans. Just before
+we left two English ladies arrived, so the social life at Kerman
+began to grow, and to-day it boasts of quite a number of Europeans,
+consisting of consuls of various nations, as well as missionaries,
+bank and telegraph employees.
+
+When we arrived at Kerman we found great difficulty in choosing and
+leasing a house. Many were only too anxious to show us their houses,
+and to assure us that all their property belonged to us, to do what we
+liked with; but when it came to making definite arrangements it was
+quite a different matter. So long as it was only "talk" the various
+would-be landlords were willing to promise everything and anything,
+but it was quite another question when suggestions were made as to
+the desirability of committing those promises to paper. At last we
+settled on a house outside the town, which possessed a nice large
+garden, but the house itself only consisted of about two rooms,
+and these were in a very tumble-down and filthy condition.
+
+The landlord (a Parsee) promised to build according to our plans,
+and to spend the whole of the first three years' rent in making
+improvements and additions to the house. The consequence of this
+delightful arrangement was that during the greater part of our time
+in Kerman building operations were going on, and only just as we were
+leaving was the work completed and the house made inhabitable. But
+in the end a very fairly comfortable house was built, and has been
+occupied ever since, I believe, by our C.M.S. missionaries.
+
+Our garden was very large, but only half of it had been cultivated;
+the further end we had hoped to have made into a tennis court,
+but unfortunately we had to leave before it was possible to do
+so. All the bricks used for building were made from the earth of
+the garden. The process is simplicity itself. Water is mixed with
+the earth till it becomes a thick mud, then it is stamped into the
+required shape by means of a wooden block, and then left in the sun
+to dry. Sometimes straw is mixed with the mud, when it is necessary
+to have very strong bricks.
+
+Directly we moved into our house I found to my horror that it was
+infested with white ants. This was my first experience of these
+wretched little creatures, and I hope it may be my last. They are
+disturbers of one's peace of mind, for once they are settled in a
+house it is impossible to get rid of them, and the only thing to
+hope for is that by continually waging war against them you may keep
+them slightly in subjection. I remember so well the day I first made
+the acquaintance of these noxious things. I had with much difficulty
+succeeded in finishing our drawing-room, and considering all things
+I may be forgiven if I confess to having felt a certain amount of
+pride as I looked at the result of my labours. Certainly it was
+not too luxurious; but it was comfortable and "homey." Alas! my
+pride soon had a fall. After a day or two my husband had need of
+some book, and upon taking it from the shelf found it eaten half
+through! I then began to hunt about, and found the room was swarming
+with these abominations, under the carpets, behind the pictures,
+cosily ensconced in books--everywhere they were having a right royal
+time. From that moment almost to the day we left, I never ceased to
+hunt and destroy these ubiquitous ants. We were having two new rooms
+built, and I said to my husband, "One comfort is that the ants cannot
+be in the new rooms;" but, alas, my hopes were vain! The builders had
+used an old piece of wood for a beam on which the ceiling rested,
+and this was infested with white ants, and so in a very short time
+they had that room, too, to revel in. I tried all manner of things
+to get rid of them, but found the most successful remedy was pouring
+petroleum down the holes from which they came. This drove them away
+from that hole, but they only burrowed a little further, seeking
+for a new outlet. Nothing could or can destroy them. As long as the
+queen ant remains they can never be exterminated. An English engineer
+who came to Kerman told me that, when he was living in India, he was
+building a house, and before he laid the foundations he offered large
+rewards for all queen ants found in the grounds near, for, said he,
+"This is the only way to ensure freedom from these pests." He also told
+me that one night he left his evening shoes out in his room, and in
+the morning the leather was eaten half away. I can quite believe this
+now, after having seen for myself their tremendous digestive powers.
+
+One of our missionaries had to leave Kerman quite suddenly while we
+were there. Before leaving he packed all his most valued books into
+tin-lined cases and had them soldered down, thinking they would be safe
+against the intrusions of white ants. Shortly after his departure we
+suspected these wretches of being at work amongst the books, and so
+came to the conclusion we had better open and see. There, sure enough,
+they were, and busily they had been engaged too, for like "Mother
+Hubbard who went to the cupboard," when we went to the box we found
+it bare! if not quite, almost so; for, with the exception of a few
+stout leather covers, all trace of Mr. Blackett's valuable library
+was gone! Such are the literary instincts of white ants. But indeed
+nothing comes amiss to their tastes--books, boots, pictures, carpets,
+clothes, papers--all vanish under the business-like efforts of these
+horrible creatures. What with white ants and bad servants to contend
+and combat with, housekeeping in Kerman was enough to turn one's hair
+grey! The struggle was unequal, and I generally got the worst of it.
+
+To begin with, the servants we had brought with us from Isphahan
+refused to stay in such an out-of-the-world spot as Kerman, so
+no sooner had we begun to unpack than first one and then another
+declared his intention of going, until we were left stranded. Then
+began the joys of servant-hunting. In some parts of Persia this is
+not a difficult task, but in Kerman it was practically impossible to
+find a decent servant, or one that knew anything about his work.
+
+The chief drawback to Kerman domestics is the fact that they are all
+opium-smokers. The native saying in Kerman is, "That every fourth
+man out of three" is an opium-smoker. Although this may be a slight
+exaggeration, yet it was decidedly hard to find any one who was not
+addicted to this terrible habit. Awful specimens presented themselves
+as "cooks," but one look at them was enough! At last a veritable
+"Uriah Heep" offered his valuable services to us; he came armed with
+wonderful credentials and menu cards. These latter he claimed to
+have successfully negotiated when in the employ of some Frenchman,
+but I have grave doubts as to the veracity of this statement. On the
+strength of these menus we thought we could not do better than engage
+him; so he came, and proved himself to be a most aggravating specimen
+of humanity, specially formed, I believe, to try the patience and
+tempers of poor unsuspecting foreigners. Nothing ever put him out
+or ruffled his sweet amiability. How I wished it would, and that he
+would depart in wrath and anger at my repeated complaints against
+him! But no, nothing of the kind; he came to stay, and stay he did,
+till he bade us an affectionate and touching farewell on our departure
+from Kerman. His money accounts were always atrociously high, but so
+cleverly did he manage them that I could rarely detect him cheating,
+and at last I gave it up as a hopeless task, concluding the game was
+not worth the candle.
+
+When we were alone his cooking was passable--at least it was generally
+eatable; but if ever we had friends to dinner he always managed to
+surpass himself with some act of stupidity or wickedness, I never
+could make out which it was.
+
+On one occasion the English consul and one or two others were dining
+with us. We had safely reached the "sweet" stage, and I was just
+beginning to congratulate myself that this time, at any rate, our
+lovely cook was not going to disgrace himself or play any trick. Just
+then a "chocolate cream" was handed round. It looked all right. The
+consul took some, tasted it, and promptly laid down his fork; his
+example was followed by others. I hastily called the "boy" to bring
+me some, and on tasting it found to my horror that the chocolate
+cream was highly flavoured with naphthalene! We had lately received
+a box from home; in it was some of this useful stuff for destroying
+moths; doubtless the cook thought it was a nice and specially delicate
+flavouring for puddings! On another occasion I had been experimenting
+on some dessert dish, which necessitated part of the ingredients
+soaking for an hour or two over a slow fire. I put everything ready,
+and left strict injunctions with "Uriah" that he was to touch nothing,
+and so I left. Shortly after, feeling rather uneasy as to the welfare
+of my concoction, I returned to the kitchen, just in time to see the
+wretched man pouring my "Dream of Delight" down the sink! I confess
+to having been guilty then for the first and last time of boxing a
+servant's ears; but really was the provocation not great?
+
+Another of our "treasures" was a man called Neamat 'allah. He was
+a splendid "show man," but no good for work of any kind. He shone
+when visitors came, as he felt the dignity of his Sahib depended in
+a great measure on him.
+
+Then there was an awful boy, Rustem. I did my best to make him into a
+decent parlour-maid, but utterly failed. Although only about eighteen
+years of age, he was a confirmed slave to the opium habit. His chief
+forte was smashing crockery and telling lies. Of course we never
+expected our servants to speak the truth, but this boy seemed the most
+incorrigible of all. One day he said to me, after I had been trying to
+instil into his mind some idea as to why we should speak the truth,
+"Well, Khanum, what is the use of my speaking the truth, for if I
+did you would not believe me, and would only say it was a lie?" This
+is true, I am afraid, to a great extent, for after being deceived so
+often one gets sceptical about the possibility of a native speaking the
+truth, especially if he is an opium-smoker too. And yet sometimes they
+look at you so innocently, with such an air of injured righteousness,
+that you begin to wonder if after all they are not for once speaking
+the truth; but, alas, the wonder soon passes!
+
+Shortly before leaving Kerman we were fortunate enough to secure
+the services of a real treasure in the person of an Indian. He came
+to Kerman with his master, Mr. Patrick Duncan, whose object was to
+sink artesian wells, but unfortunately he died before his work was
+completed. His man, Abdul Fateh, was heartbroken at the death of his
+master, as he had been with him for many years. He begged my husband
+to engage him, and very gladly we did so, and he proved a great comfort
+to us all our time in Persia, acting as "pishkhedmat" (chief servant),
+not only being good and honest himself, but keeping the others up to
+their work, and not allowing them to cheat us too much. Before leaving
+the subject of servants I must say just a word about our woman servant;
+she was such a dear little body--a Parsee. We called her Bagi, which
+means a female servant. She had been with Miss Sykes for a time,
+so knew a little about Feringhi ways. She was a picturesque figure,
+waddling about the house in her big baggy trousers and her gaily
+coloured overall reaching to her knees, while on her head she wore
+the usual number of coverings, in compliance with the Zoroastrian
+idea that a woman's head must be well covered! It is a great "shame"
+for a Parsee woman to be seen with her head uncovered. One day Bagi
+had been washing her hair, and the doctor happened to see her in
+passing before she had replaced her many coverings. She came to me
+in great distress to know what was she to do. The Sahib had seen her
+with her head uncovered!
+
+The recreations of Kerman are confined almost entirely to horse
+riding. There are many very good picnic places near by, and an
+excellent stretch of desert for a canter or gallop, but not so good
+as the desert outside Yezd. When we first went to Kerman I was told
+that I must on no account ride through the bazaars, as no Englishwoman
+had ever been seen in them. I might ride outside the town and view the
+bazaars from a safe distance, but this did not fall in with my ideas at
+all, and as soon as we were fairly settled down in our house I asked
+my husband to take me to see the bazaars. So one afternoon we started
+off to try the experiment, taking with us two servants, one to walk
+in front and one behind, my husband and I riding our horses. I will
+not say that as we entered the dark, dreary-looking archways leading
+to the bazaars my heart did not beat a little faster than usual,
+as I thought of all the horrible things which had been told me as
+to what might happen when first an Englishwoman was seen in the open
+bazaar. After a few minutes, however, I saw there was nothing to fear,
+for beyond a good stare and a few curses from some of the people,
+nothing happened. I had, of course, taken the precaution of wearing
+a thick veil. My second ride through these same bazaars was much more
+exciting. It was during the time of the Passion Play in the month of
+Mohurram, referred to in another chapter. As we were riding quietly
+along we suddenly came across the whole company of excited, maddened
+creatures returning to their homes after the play was over. The crowd
+was headed by about a hundred men, whose garments were streaming with
+blood, their heads and faces covered with gashes of all sorts and
+sizes. In their hands they held and waved frantically their swords
+or daggers.
+
+Our servants were fearfully alarmed, and hurriedly turned our
+horses' heads into a narrow passage, and hoped the crowd would
+not notice us. But unfortunately they did, and with a wild cry of
+"Feringhi! Feringhi!" they immediately formed up just in front of the
+opening to our passage and began their wild dance for our benefit. It
+was rather a gruesome sight in the dimly-lighted bazaars to see
+a hundred or more naked swords flashing, blood on everything and
+everybody, men yelling, shouting, cursing, and dancing. We were not
+sorry when in a few minutes they took it into their heads to move on,
+thinking, no doubt, that they had paid great honour to the Feringhis
+by this exhibition for their special benefit. After this experience
+I felt there certainly was no longer any need for fear, and since
+then we have all ridden and walked quite freely in and through the
+bazaars. Only once was I spat upon in Persia, and that was in Yezd.
+
+Persians have often been called the Frenchmen of the East.
+They certainly are a most courteous and polite people, outwardly at
+all events, and are masters in the art of paying compliments to one
+another. But to a novice it is no light matter to know just the right
+amount of flattery to deal out, as it is almost as bad a mistake
+to give any one a great deal too much flattery as not to give him
+enough. The art lies in knowing just what is due to each person,
+according to the rank of life he occupies. When you wish to visit
+any one it is not polite to send word to say, "I am coming." You must
+couch your message in much more flowery language, such as, "I want to
+honour myself by coming to see your nobleness." The answer will be
+"Bis'millah--Please bring your tashrif (dignity)." There is great
+etiquette, too, over the kalian-smoking and tea-drinking, each one
+deprecatingly suggesting that his neighbour should partake first and
+the other declining the honour with a sweeping bow; but every one knows
+who is entitled to the first whiff of the kalian or the first cup of
+tea, and no one would dare to think of defrauding him of his right.
+
+It seems such a pity that Persians of high class are gradually falling
+into European ways, for they do not suit these Frenchmen of the East
+half so well as their own manners and customs.
+
+While we were in Kerman the governor was one who had lived in Europe
+a good deal, and liked everything done ą la Feringhi; he much enjoyed
+English afternoon teas, home-made cakes, &c. Soon after our arrival
+there an invitation came from the governor for dinner the following
+week. On the evening appointed a carriage came for us and drove us
+to the "Arg," as the house of the governor is called. We found a
+splendid dinner waiting for us, served in French style, about twenty
+courses of excellently cooked dishes. After dinner we were amused
+by Persian musicians and singers. We were entertained by the nephew
+of the governor, who apologised for the absence of his uncle, who,
+he said, was suffering from a bad attack of fever which prevented his
+presiding at the table. We heard afterwards that the real reason of
+his non-appearance was not fever, but a fear of being laughed at. He
+knew how things ought to be done according to European fashion, and
+was afraid that he had not all the necessaries to carry out a dinner
+successfully, and so preferred not to show himself. However, when he
+saw how splendidly the first dinner-party went off he decided to give
+another, so in about a week's time we received a second invitation to
+dinner. This time the governor himself took the head of the table,
+and did the honours of it well, too. He certainly had nothing to be
+ashamed of, for everything was served in perfect French style. From
+the soup to the dessert, with all the intermediary courses, everything
+was dished up in perfect taste and on good china. The glass and table
+decorations would not have disgraced a European table.
+
+The Governor of Yezd, on the other hand, preferred to hold more to his
+own traditions, and I have much enjoyed a meal there with his family,
+served and eaten in true Persian style.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE WOMEN OF PERSIA
+
+    Home life--Anderoon, women's quarters--Jealousy in
+    the anderoon--Anderoon of Khan Baba Khan--Two days in an
+    anderoon--H.R.H. Princess Hamadané Sultané--Visit to the anderoon
+    of H.R.H. the Zil-es-Sultan.
+
+
+ "The more your prayers to me, the more will your wives be in Paradise."
+
+                                                 From Life of Al-Jazuli.
+
+
+  "Women are weak, as you say, and love of all things to be passive,
+  Passive, patient, receptive, yea, even of wrong and misdoing,
+  Even to force and misdoing, with joy and victorious feeling,
+  Patient, passive, receptive; for that is the strength of their being,
+  Like to the earth taking all things and all to good converting."
+
+                                                           A. H. Clough.
+
+
+Whilst in Persia I had a good many opportunities of becoming well
+acquainted with some of the Moslem women, especially in Kerman,
+as there I was for some time the only Englishwoman, and naturally
+the women liked to see as much of me as possible, in order to see
+and hear about life amongst the Feringhis. The Persian women are
+much more volatile and genial than their Arab sisters, but on the
+whole I prefer the latter, perhaps because I have had so much more
+to do with them. The Persian lady is ready, the moment she sees you,
+to shower compliments upon you and to tell you how much she loves you,
+while her more austere sister of Arabia takes time to consider whether
+you are a person to be trusted or not; and if after a time she does
+give you her love, it is something worth the having.
+
+When I first went to Persia I found the questions of the women most
+disconcerting, but after a time, if their conversation became too
+objectionable, I always told them it was not our custom to talk on
+such subjects, and they generally took the hint, at any rate for the
+time being. When in Kerman I started an "At Home" for Moslem ladies,
+and in this way I got to know some of them very well, and also by
+visiting them in their homes. They quite liked the idea of an "At Home"
+day, and I well remember our first one. About twenty ladies came, each
+one attended by a slave or two and a small boy to guard their shoes,
+which of course they left at the door. It was quite a business unrobing
+all these ladies from their black silk "chuddars," and arranging each
+lady in her respective place, according to the honour due to her. We
+had in our drawing-room a long divan, about 12 feet by 6, occupying
+the whole of one end of the room, and cushioned according to Eastern
+ideas. On this about twelve of the ladies seated themselves and looked
+very comfortable and at ease, while the rest sat on chairs arranged
+round the room, and looked most uncomfortable and uneasy. By-and-by
+I noticed first one foot being tucked up and then another, till most
+of the ladies were sitting native fashion on their chairs, and it
+looked so curious I could hardly keep from smiling. After all were
+settled, and their chuddars and veils carefully folded up and put
+aside by the slaves, then the kalian or water-pipe was brought in,
+each slave preparing the pipe for her own mistress.
+
+I had arranged that my woman-servant, Bagi, should hand round tea,
+but the ladies were horrified at the idea of taking tea which had been
+poured out by a Parsee, as they believed it would make them unclean
+for I don't know how long; so my poor Bagi had to take a back seat
+and see others take her place. My next "At Home" day I was wiser, and
+secured the services of the mother of our syce, who was a Moslem, as I
+did not like to see a strange woman doing the honours of the tea-table.
+
+Amongst the ladies that day was the wife of one of the ex-governors of
+Kerman, and the good lady did not let any one forget that fact! They
+were always most interested in seeing and hearing all about Feringhi
+life, and were specially interested in photographs and pictures. One
+lady said to me directly she was seated, "I want to see a picture of
+Jesus Christ;" and on my showing her one, she most reverently kissed
+it and put it to her forehead. They much enjoyed listening to our
+little organ, and one lady was so delighted that she gave her husband
+no peace till he bought her one, and then nothing would satisfy her
+but I must go and teach her how to play. As her instrument arrived
+from Teheran with half its notes missing, it is easy to imagine
+that her musical talent (?) was somewhat put to the test. However,
+she was very proud of her instrument, and quite happy playing with
+one finger an accompaniment to some weird Persian song.
+
+Of "home life" in Persia there is none; there is no word in their
+language for "home," and so it plays no part in their lives. Life in
+the home varies very much according to the rank of the husband. The
+poorer wives and village women are blessed by being obliged to work,
+but the better class have absolutely nothing to do, from morning
+till night, but smoke, drink tea, and talk scandal. The poorer wife
+is certainly the better off of the two, for she has to rise early in
+the morning to get her husband his early cup of tea before he goes
+off to work; then she has the house to look after and the children
+to think of and sew for; and last, but not least, the evening meal
+of pillau or kabob to cook ere her lord and master returns from his
+labours; while her less fortunate neighbour has nothing to do but to
+talk of the latest scandal of the anderoon, and then to pay a visit
+to another anderoon to tell and receive the latest news there.
+
+The anderoon is that part of the house which is given up to the women,
+and is as a rule the best part of the house, for there the men of the
+house retire when their work is done, to be waited on and fussed over
+by the womenfolk.
+
+When a man is well off and has more than one wife, he generally keeps
+them in separate compounds; but often two will be living together in
+the same anderoon, and as a rule they do not love each other very much.
+
+The great and chief causes of jealousy in the anderoon are the
+children, or rather lack of children. For instance, a young bride is
+brought to her husband's house, and for a time she is the pet and
+favourite of her husband, and all is well; but if as time passes
+no child comes to cheer her heart, then the husband soon tires of
+his new plaything and looks about for a new and prettier one, till
+one sad day the poor young wife hears that her husband is about to
+bring home another to share her life and home. We can imagine what
+rage and jealousy will burn in her heart, and how she will hate the
+new inmate of the anderoon, and especially if after a time her enemy
+becomes the mother of a boy. Then her hatred reaches a climax, and
+it is by no means uncommon for her to have recourse to the "cup of
+coffee" either for herself or her enemy. That "cup of coffee" is a
+most useful (?) institution in Persia, as it is often very difficult
+to detect the poison hidden therein.
+
+It is impossible for us even to think of the miseries through which
+some of these poor women pass; and if we see how unhappiness and
+wretchedness is fostered in an anderoon containing two wives, how
+much more miserable and awful must be the life when the number of
+wives is multiplied by two or even more.
+
+But while there are many unhappy anderoons, yet as "the exception
+proves the rule" in most cases so it does here. For I remember one
+home in which two wives were living in apparent peace and happiness;
+but here, again, there was reason for their unity, as neither of
+them had any children, and so there was no cause for jealousy. Their
+husband was an aristocratic old man of about seventy years of age,
+and he had taken these two young wives to cheer his old age. He had a
+little son by one of his many former wives, of whom he was passionately
+fond, and this boy was very ill for some months, suffering from heart
+disease. His two young wives nursed this boy day and night in a most
+devoted manner, and apparently really loved the boy, and were very
+sorry when he died. It was owing to this boy's illness that we had the
+opportunity of spending two days in the anderoon of Khan Baba Khan,
+and very pleasant and interesting days they were too. It was the
+year that we were in Kerman, and we had just gone away for our summer
+holiday to that lovely garden of Mahoon, when one day a very urgent
+messenger came to my husband from Khan Baba Khan begging him to go
+and see his boy, who was very ill. The old man had sent his carriage
+for us, with instructions to his man to drive the doctor straight to
+his garden, situated some sixteen miles on the other side of Kerman,
+where the boy had been taken ill. As soon as we were ready we started
+off, but could only reach Kerman that night, where we rested, and
+the next day arrived at the garden of the Khan.
+
+It was a very pretty garden, with plenty of trees and running water. On
+our arrival we were ushered into the room prepared for us, and in
+a few minutes the poor little invalid was brought in, and even then
+he seemed to have the mark of death on his face; but he was a very
+self-willed boy, and every one had to humour him in everything, as the
+fits of temper which he indulged in were very dangerous for him in his
+weak state of health. While the doctor was examining and prescribing
+for the invalid in another room the two ladies came to see me, and
+brought a very appetising dinner; chickens cooked to perfection and
+pillaus formed the staple part of the meal. The ladies then retired,
+and my husband and I thoroughly enjoyed our first meal taken together
+in a Persian anderoon.
+
+After dinner my husband again visited the patient, and the ladies
+came to prepare our room for the night. This was quite an elaborate
+undertaking. First of all, a huge mosquito net was fixed up by
+attaching the four corners to tapes and nailing them to the wall. The
+underneath part of the net rested on the floor; on this the mattresses
+were placed, so that once you were inside the net you were in what
+seemed like a good-sized room. In fact, during the next two days we
+used to sit inside the net reading or writing, as outside there was
+no respite from the plague of mosquitoes and sandflies. Sleeping on
+the floor is very comfortable; in fact, I don't quite see the need of
+bedsteads, unless the room is infested with rats or other creeping
+creatures! The next two days passed very pleasantly; whenever my
+husband went out of the room, almost simultaneously I would hear a
+voice at the window asking permission to enter, and the ladies would
+come in for a chat. We became great friends, and this friendship lasted
+till we left Kerman some months later, and then the Khan lent us his
+carriage to drive to Yezd, as he wished to express his gratitude for
+all my husband had done for his boy. Unfortunately the boy even then
+was past human aid, and after two or three months of suffering he died.
+
+I have always been glad of these two days actually spent in a Persian
+home, as it enabled me to see what their everyday life really was;
+but as I have said, this was quite an exceptionally happy anderoon,
+with none of the wrangling and quarrelling generally connected with
+the homes of Persian women.
+
+While in Yezd I met and soon became very friendly with a most charming
+Persian lady. She was a daughter of one of the late Shahs, and thus
+was a princess in her own right; her husband was a nephew of the late
+Shah, so she was doubly connected with Persian royalty.
+
+H.R.H. Princess Hamadané Sultané was in many ways quite unlike the
+majority of Persian ladies. She was a strong-minded, clever woman, and
+was very anxious that her children should be brought up in European
+fashion. These children certainly had a very good time compared
+with other Persian children, as their mother refused to let them
+become little women before they had passed out of childhood's days,
+and although they were then nine and ten years old were generally
+playing with their dolls or other toys brought from Paris for their
+amusement. The princess very much wished her children to learn English,
+but I suggested that she should learn it herself first and then teach
+it to her children. To this she gladly consented, and so twice a
+week I used to go up and give her lessons. She quickly got over the
+A B C stage, as she had some slight knowledge of French, and took
+a great delight in picking out the words of an easy English reader,
+and in a very short time she greeted me in very quaint broken English:
+"Good morning; I hope you are well." Unfortunately, I had to leave my
+interesting pupil at this stage, as we were leaving Persia for England,
+and I never saw her again; but I have heard that she continued her
+English lessons for some time. I do not think I ever knew any one
+with so many dresses as this princess had; every time I saw her she
+appeared in a different costume, and always in rich silks, satins, or
+brocades. I asked her once if she knew how many gowns she possessed,
+and she confessed that she had no idea, and added that it would not be
+at all right for me to see her more than once in the same dress! And
+I certainly never did, although I was visiting her twice weekly for
+some months.
+
+This good lady exercised a very great influence over her husband
+(a most unusual thing in Persia), partly, perhaps, on account of
+her social position and also because she possessed a large amount of
+property in her own right. Before she came to live with her husband in
+Yezd she said she would only come with the understanding that she was
+to be the only wife, and I believe the prince kept to the agreement as
+long as she was with him. But he must have found it very hard, for I
+have heard that before his wife came no girl dared be out after dusk,
+so afraid were they of the prince and his courtiers.
+
+One day I was visiting in the anderoon in company with the lady doctor
+who was attending one of the children, and lunch was announced; so
+the prince made us sit down with them and partake of the mid-day
+meal. After lunch the prince amused himself by vaccinating all
+the children he could lay hands on (not his own, but those of the
+servants). The children did not seem to see the joke quite so much
+as the prince did! They were much too frightened to run away, and
+stood trembling in their shoes waiting for their turn to come. At
+that time, too, no one in the anderoon dared say they had toothache,
+for if they did immediately the prince would call for his forceps, and
+out would come a tooth. Perhaps it might happen to be the offender,
+but just as likely it would be an innocent tooth which had never
+given its owner a moment's pain!
+
+I shall never forget the delicious coffee which was always served
+when visiting at this house. It was a mixture, I believe, of coffee
+and chocolate; and I have never tasted anywhere such coffee. I asked
+the princess to give me the recipe, but my make never came up to the
+original, and I think perhaps they did not mean it to!
+
+The princess was very fond of sending to Paris for boxes of goods
+on approval, and it was rather amusing to be there when the things
+arrived. Sometimes most beautiful Parisian blouses would come, quite
+unsuitable for her; but she loved to try them on and then put them
+away, never, perhaps, to be looked at again. I have very pleasant
+memories of my friendship with Princess Hamadané, and have as a yād
+gari (remembrance) a lovely silver tray of Persian work, which she
+presented to me on our leaving Yezd; also the photographs of her
+three children--two girls and a boy.
+
+It is quite impossible to tell of all the interesting visits paid to
+different anderoons; but I should like to mention some visits paid
+to the anderoon of the Zil-es-Sultan, a brother of the late Shah. He
+was then Governor of Isphahan, and my husband at that time was taking
+charge of the medical work there for a year.
+
+The governor one day sent his carriage, with the request that the
+English doctor would go to see one of his wives, and also bring
+his wife with him; so we went, and had a very pleasant three-mile
+drive from Julfa to Isphahan. Arriving at the palace, we were met by
+the chief eunuch and conducted to the anderoon, into a large room
+surrounded by glass mirrors. Here in a far corner, seated on the
+ground, was "something" covered with what looked like a large white
+sheet. This "something" turned out to be one of the ladies of the
+anderoon, who was suffering from dimness of sight. She was one of the
+prince's favourite wives, and so he had taken the trouble to allow
+her to see the doctor. After a great deal of palaver she consented
+to lift a corner of her chuddar, and, while shielding the other part
+of her face, to uncover her eyes. Her husband was very anxious for
+her eyes to be thoroughly examined, and he ordered a dark room to be
+speedily prepared, so that the examination should be as complete as
+possible. While we were waiting for the room and lamp to be ready
+the prince took out a little pocket-mirror from his waistcoat and
+carefully looked to see if his hair was in perfect order, and then,
+having satisfied himself that all was as it should be, he entered
+into conversation with my husband over the state of his wife's eyes.
+
+Another day I paid quite an informal friendly visit to two or three
+of his wives. Each wife had a separate compound to herself, and her
+own set of servants and slaves, and no wife was allowed to visit
+another without special permission from the chief eunuch or from the
+prince himself.
+
+That afternoon two or three had asked for and received permission
+to drink tea in the house to which we had been invited, so we had
+quite a nice little tea-party, and a very gay one too so far as the
+costumes were concerned; but the subject of dress being so stupendous,
+we will leave it for another chapter.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+MORE ABOUT PERSIAN WOMEN
+
+    Costumes--Wedding festivities--Wedding dinner--Kindness of Persian
+    husbands--Story of brutality--Divorce--Aids to beauty--Degradation
+    and cruelty of women.
+
+
+                   "Women are made by men:
+                    The nations fade that hold their women slaves:
+                    The souls of men that pave their hell-ward path
+                    With women's souls lose immortality."
+
+                                                          John Davidson.
+
+
+The indoor costume of the Persian women is not at all pretty or
+graceful. It consists of a short, loose jacket, generally made of
+some gaily coloured material, and in the case of rich women of bright
+brocaded silk or velvet, and a very short skirt, just the length of a
+ballet dancer's. In fact their dress is an exact copy of the Parisian
+ballet dancer. Many years ago all the women wore those picturesque
+baggy trousers, with long flowing garments over them, but while one
+of the late Shahs was visiting Europe he saw the ballet dancer,
+and his fancy was so taken by the costume, that on his return he
+ordered all the inmates of the royal harem to adopt the same dress;
+and as royalty always sets the fashion for the country, in a short
+time all the Moslem women of Persia had adopted this hideous fashion.
+
+I remember so well the first time I saw this costume; it was the
+evening of the day on which we first arrived in Isphahan. After dinner
+Miss Stuart (the bishop's daughter) and I were walking on the roof
+of their house, when suddenly a woman appeared on the other side
+of a wall and began chattering with Miss Stuart. I felt inclined to
+look the other way, thinking the good lady had forgotten to complete
+her toilet, but seeing that Miss Stuart did not seem surprised,
+I supposed it was all right, and so began to feel more at ease;
+but certainly the first sight of these costumes is rather alarming,
+especially if the woman is not wearing the long stockings, as they
+generally do, but often leave off in very hot weather. On their heads
+they wear a square of white muslin, and flowing down their backs,
+and attached by a pin to their hair, is a long, graceful chuddar,
+generally made of a pretty muslin or silk; and as the women walk
+about the house, these chuddars flow behind, and look very graceful
+indeed. The ladies do not like the fashion of the short skirts,
+and many were the requests made to me to cut out dresses such as I
+was wearing, and if I had wished, I could have had my time in Kerman
+fully occupied in cutting out dresses according to European fashion;
+but with the exception of pleasing two or three of my special friends,
+I always told them I had no time for dressmaking, but would always be
+pleased to lend them patterns. So ashamed were some of the women of
+their short skirts, that they would often take their long, flowing
+chuddars from their heads and wrap them round their waists, giving
+the appearance of a draped skirt.
+
+The outdoor costume of the Persian women is much more becoming than
+the indoor, though it is decidedly hot in the warm weather. It is made
+up of three pieces; the big voluminous trousers which slip over the
+feet and cling closely to the shape of the foot, but above the ankle
+fall full and baggy; over these are worn the large black chuddar,
+the poor wearing black calico and the rich silk; and then, covering
+the face, is the veil. This veil is a long strip of white calico with
+open work for the part covering the eyes, and fastened together at
+the back of the head by brass, silver, or gold and jewelled clasps,
+according to the rank of the wearer. Through the open work part of
+the veil the woman is able to find her way about, and see all that
+there is to be seen, while no one can see the face behind the veil.
+
+To see a group of Persian ladies decked out in their silks and satins
+is a sight not easily forgotten. There is nothing these women love
+more than some festivity at their own or a friend's house, which
+gives them an opportunity of showing off their finery, and also
+of meeting all their acquaintances, and having a good "gufti goo"
+(chat). I was often invited when in Kerman upon these occasions,
+but found, if I accepted all invitations, my time would be taken up
+with going to betrothal feasts, weddings, &c., and so I used to look
+in for a few minutes and then excuse myself. On one occasion I went
+to a wedding at the house of one of the chief mullahs of the town. I
+was asked to go at sunrise, but did not put in an appearance till
+about nine o'clock. When I arrived, all the guests had been there
+already some hours; it was certainly a very pretty sight. Two large
+compounds were given up to the entertainment of the bride's party,
+while the bridegroom was holding his reception in another house.
+
+As I entered the door leading into the anderoon, I could but stand and
+admire the scene before me. Quite two hundred ladies were present, each
+one dressed in gorgeous silks and satins, and all wearing the graceful
+chuddar falling from the head. The majority of these chuddars were of
+silk--Indian, Japanese, or Persian silks, all vying with each other
+in their brilliancy and beauty. Some were rainbow silks, all colours
+merging into each other; then again, others were gaily flowered,
+and others "shot" or lustre silks--the whole forming a wonderfully
+harmonious and striking picture, and I longed for a camera that might
+give a true representation, both in colour and vivacity, of this
+butterfly scene before me. To add to the gayness of their attire,
+each married lady was wearing a spray or wreath of flowers in her
+hair, and many carried or wore bouquets of roses. The whole effect
+was charming, and formed a marvellous study of colour, gracefulness,
+and Eastern beauty.
+
+We have kept our hostess waiting quite a long time while we have been
+admiring her guests, but now we must hasten to pay our respects to her,
+and take our seat amongst this gay throng. I was alone that day, being
+the only European woman in the town; but it will be much more pleasant
+if my readers will come with me in imagination to that wedding feast.
+
+We are ushered into a large room full of gay ladies, who immediately
+all rise from the ground as we enter, and salaam us. It is rather
+difficult to know which is our hostess amongst so many, so we must be
+impartial in our salutations, and pray God that "their kindnesses may
+never grow less," or "their hands never pain them," &c. Then we all
+take our seats, and conversation is resumed. The ladies will begin
+with a series of questions, such as--
+
+"How old are you?" "Have you a mother?" "Why do you not black your
+eyebrows?" "Are you happy?" "Is your husband kind to you?" "Do
+you like him?" "How much did your dress cost?" and so on, like a
+group of children--and when you think they have finished, they will
+begin again. After a short interval tea is handed round. Tea, did I
+say? well, it is dignified by that name, but in reality Persian tea
+is not much more than sweetened water coloured with a drop of tea. To
+begin with, the cups are very tiny, generally made of glass. They are
+first filled up with three or four lumps of sugar, then a teaspoonful
+of tea is poured over these, and water added until the cup is full,
+and the result is--Persian tea! However, it is rather pleasant to
+drink, and helps to pass the time. After a short interval more tea
+is handed round, and then glasses of sherbet, made from juices of
+different fruits, and then, for a change, coffee is served.
+
+About noon, just as I am afraid we are all feeling very tired and
+sleepy, a welcome change comes; a stirring and commotion begins in
+the courtyard, women rush about with enormous trays on their heads
+and carrying all kinds of dishes: this is but a prelude to dinner
+being announced. Two large rooms are laid out for dinner; in each room
+about one hundred guests sit down. I was taken in by the mother of the
+bridegroom, so we will all pass in under her protection. (The mother
+of the bride is not in evidence on these occasions, being supposed to
+be overwhelmed with grief at losing her daughter.) The "table" is the
+ground, so we must gracefully (?) sit on our heels. On the "table" are
+over two hundred different dishes--pillaus, chillaus, chicken, kabobs,
+vegetables, fruits--all laid out in tempting array. The hostess having
+pronounced the Moslem benediction, "Bismi'llah" (In the name of God),
+all the guests fall to work in real earnest: very little talking is
+done, eating being the business of the moment. Spoons and forks were
+provided for me, but I preferred to do as they did, and so ate with
+my fingers, though it requires a good deal of practice to do it neatly
+and gracefully. As a mark of respect and honour, the hostess from time
+to time breaks off pieces of meat from her portion and places them
+on my plate, and once as a special mark of favour placed a dainty
+morsel of chicken in my mouth. I hope my readers have enjoyed their
+dinner as much as I have, for to my mind a Persian feast is a most
+delectable entertainment.
+
+After dinner we all washed our hands in a basin brought round for
+the purpose, the water being poured from an ewer on to our hands by a
+servant. Then we all retired to our reception-room of the morning, and
+again tea and sherbet were handed round, and the kalian or water-pipe
+was much in request, each lady taking a whiff and passing the long
+tube to her neighbour.
+
+But where is the poor little bride all this time? We have neither
+seen nor heard her all day long, and yet the feast is supposed to
+be in her honour. All through the long, hot June day she has been
+cooped up in a tiny room, and as sunset approaches her friends and
+relations go to dress her and to decorate her from head to foot with
+jewellery and finery. Into her hair is woven a quantity of golden
+thread, so that in the distance it looks like a mass of gold, and
+must be very heavy on the poor tired little head. She is brought
+out into a large room, and seated on a chair in the middle of it;
+then every one goes up to her, and after kissing her, says, "May
+you be blessed." The poor little mite (she might be thirteen years
+old, but hardly looks it) seems absolutely wretched and miserable,
+and when food is brought to her refuses to eat. Just at sunset she
+is taken to her husband's house in a closed carriage, and our hearts
+must ache as we think of what is in store for her. Even if her husband
+is kind to her at first, yet she has nothing much to look forward to
+but misery and degradation, and if by chance she goes to an anderoon
+already containing two or three wives, then may God take pity on her,
+for her fate will be a sad one. As soon as a man marries a girl she
+is absolutely his property, and he may do exactly as he pleases with
+her; there is no redress for the poor unfortunate girl. If the man
+is a brute and half kills his wife no one dare say a word to him,
+or if perchance there is one brave enough, he will only be told that
+"the girl is his wife, and he can do as he likes with his own," and
+so it is no wonder if the shadow of the future lies darkly on the
+faces of those poor little children, as they leave their mother's
+home as brides to go out into the unknown which lies before them.
+
+I remember a poor little girl who was brought to the hospital in Julfa,
+while we were there. She had been married to a brutal man, when about
+eleven years old. Being very unhappy with him, she often used to run
+away and take refuge with her mother, who lived in a village a mile
+or two away from her husband's house. On many occasions he had beaten
+her severely for some childish fault, and each time she had fled to
+her mother, and stayed with her till her husband came and carried
+her off again by force. This went on for some time, till the poor
+child's life was nothing but wretchedness and misery.
+
+One day she displeased her husband by not cooking the dinner to
+his liking, and he was so enraged with her that he behaved in the
+following abominable manner.
+
+First of all he saw that the windows of his house were barricaded and
+the door locked: then he stripped the trembling, frightened child,
+and deliberately poured paraffin oil all over her body, and finally set
+a light to her and left her to her fate, taking care to lock the door
+after him, as he went out. The neighbours, hearing the girl's screams,
+rushed to the house, but the doors being locked and the windows
+fastened much precious time was wasted. When they finally smashed
+open the window it was only to find the child a mass of flames. They
+picked her up and rushed wildly with her into the street, and dropped
+her into the nearest stream to quench the flames! It was a marvellous
+thing to think that after all this there was any life left in the
+poor child. The neighbours took her to her mother, who plastered all
+her wounds with red earth and left her lying in the corner of the
+room for some ten days. Then, taking the advice of some friends,
+they procured a cradle and lifted the poor wee child into it, and
+hoisted the cradle and its occupant on the back of a donkey, and took
+her some five days' journey to Julfa. They had heard of the Mission
+Hospital through some of their villagers, who had been treated there,
+and so they brought this little victim of Persian cruelty to the lady
+doctor, who took her in, dressed her wounds, and laid her in a clean,
+comfortable bed. All that human love and kindness could do was done to
+alleviate her sufferings, but nothing could save her life, and after
+three days she passed away--a martyr indeed to the creed of Islam,
+which enables and allows men to treat their women as something lower
+than the beasts of the field.
+
+Ought not the cries of distress and agony from the poor women of Persia
+so to rouse us, their sisters in England, that we shall determine to
+do all that lies in our power to lighten their burdens and to bring
+some rays of light into the dark lives of our Eastern sisters?
+
+One thing which adds greatly to the misery of these women is the
+ease with which their husbands can divorce them. A wife never knows
+from day to day whether or no her lord may not divorce her. Often
+for most trivial matters a man will cast away his wife. This being
+the case, the woman will lie and deceive her husband in order to
+escape divorcement. If the wives of Persia could only be raised to
+the level of true womanhood I believe they would become good wives
+and mothers, but while they are what they are, how can there be any
+hope for them? There is nothing but utter darkness till the true
+Light shines into their lives, and then and then only will the day
+break for these downtrodden, degraded beings.
+
+The Persian ladies are great beauty specialists, and bestow a good
+deal of attention upon their complexion and general make-up. They do
+not believe in beauty unadorned, for even when quite young they use the
+rouge-pot very freely, and often use it to great advantage too! I have
+often known a girl who was quite ordinary-looking, sallow and dark in
+complexion, but when dressed for her wedding I hardly recognised her,
+so changed was she by all the numerous "aids" to beauty. Her cheeks
+were now a lovely rose tint, and her eyebrows darkened and lengthened
+till they almost met in the middle, and the edges of her eyelids were
+also blackened with "kola," and really the effect was very good.
+
+They also spend much time and trouble in dyeing their hair with henna,
+not only from a fear of grey hair, but also because the dull red tint
+produced by henna is the fashionable colour.
+
+The Persian lady has very little in her life to elevate or refine
+her mind, and so we cannot wonder if at times we see in her many
+revolting characteristics. When we think of all she has to endure,
+and how little happiness comes to her lot, our wonder is that she
+retains even a semblance of womanhood. Should we be any better under
+like circumstances?
+
+If a woman is treated continually as if she was nothing but a beast
+of burden, is it to be wondered at that in some cases her nature
+becomes almost as the beasts of the field? Weird stories are told of
+the extremities to which women have been driven, and the cruelties
+which they have perpetrated.
+
+The following is one which I heard when in Persia. It was in the days
+when famine was rampant throughout the land. There was a certain man of
+high position who collected and stored all the corn he could gather,
+and then refused to sell at anything but famine prices; finally he
+was arrested and sent to Teheran, where he was tried and condemned
+to death. The Shah could not determine on the manner of death to be
+ordered for this rascal, but at last decided to hand the unfortunate
+man over to the mercies of the royal anderoon to be put to death by
+them. The ladies and women servants consulted together, and decided
+to keep the wretch in their quarters and kill him by inches, day by
+day. The method they chose was to cut him to pieces with scissors
+till he died!
+
+I cannot vouch for the truth of this story, and I trust it is not
+true, but I give it to you as I heard it. But one thing I know to
+be true, and that is, when a Persian woman is once roused to anger,
+jealousy, and passion, there is hardly anything too dreadful for her
+to contemplate doing, in her longing for revenge.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+SOME POINTS IN THE MOSLEM FAITH
+
+    Fasts and Feasts--Seyyids, dervishes, mullahs--Legends of the
+    drowning mullah, and the yard square hole.
+
+
+                                        "Religion's all or nothing."
+
+                                                            R. Browning.
+
+
+There are five things which every true Mohammedan must either
+believe or do. The first is the declaration of their faith or
+"Kalimat." "I declare that there is no God but God, and Mohammed is
+His Apostle;" "La Allaha il Allah wa Mohammed rasool Allah," this is
+the all-important witness, and must be continually recited by all true
+believers. Secondly, Moslems are bound to repeat prayers five times
+a day--at daybreak, noon, shortly before sunset, during twilight,
+and an hour after dark. I do not say all Moslems do repeat prayers at
+each of these times, but that is their rule, and those who consider
+themselves good Moslems adhere most righteously to these set times
+for prayers. Needless to say, it is but a form of words and position,
+any slight error in posture taking away all the benefit to be derived
+from the prayer. Often in Persia women have said their prayers in
+our drawing-room, if the call to prayer sounded while they were
+visiting me.
+
+Living in the East, one gets very fond of the call to prayer, heard
+from some neighbouring minaret. The first sound that catches the ear
+at daybreak is "Allah, Allaho Akhbar" (God is most great), repeated
+four times. "La Allaha il Allah wa Mohammed rasool Allah"--this is
+said twice, and then other calls and invocations, always finishing
+up with the final declaration of "Allah, Allaho Akhbar."
+
+There is a great difference in the way this call to prayer is chanted,
+some men having most melodious voices, others harsh and grating; but
+wherever a true Moslem may be when he hears this call, he lays aside
+his work at once and begins to repeat his prayers, bowing, prostrating,
+touching the ground with his forehead, &c., till the duty is finished,
+when he returns to his work, perhaps to his cheating and his lying,
+for this repetition of prayers has no effect on his life or manner
+of living.
+
+Thirdly, all good Moslems are supposed to give voluntarily to the
+mullahs a tithe of all they possess, also alms to the poor. In the
+Koran we read, "Prayer carries us half way to God, fasting brings us
+to the door of His palace, but giving of alms procures admission." In
+many cases the mullahs are provided for entirely by the freewill
+offerings of the people, all gifts being sent anonymously.
+
+Fourthly, every true believer is expected to undertake, if at all
+possible, a pilgrimage, preferably to Mecca, but if that is out
+of the question then to Kerbela or Meshed.  The former, of course,
+brings the greatest merit, and men and women will do all they can
+to perform this pilgrimage. On their return they are treated with
+great respect, and looked up to as little gods. They generally think
+so much of themselves after having performed this wonderful act of
+self-denial that they become quite unbearable to their friends. There
+is an Arabic proverb which shows the effect this pilgrimage to Mecca
+is supposed to have on the pilgrim. It is as follows: "If your friend
+has been to Mecca, trust him not. If he has been there twice, avoid
+him. But if he has made the pilgrimage three times, then flee from
+him as you would from Satan himself."
+
+Women often undertake these pilgrimages, spending weeks or months
+it may be over the journey, but resting for ever afterwards in the
+great glory and honour resulting from it.
+
+The fifth point to be observed by Moslems is that of fasting during
+the month of Ramadan. This lasts for thirty days, and is a real
+hardship for the poorer people when the fast falls during the summer,
+as from sunrise to sunset not a morsel of food or drop of water may
+pass their lips--or, as the Koran expresses it, from "the time you
+can distinguish between a white thread and a black, then keep the
+fast until night." For the rich and idle it is no great effort,
+for they simply feast and revel all night and sleep by day, but
+for the servants and labouring class it comes harder, as they must
+work by day and cannot sleep properly at night. Children are always
+very anxious to begin fasting, and often little mites of five or six
+will tell you with great pride that they are keeping the fast. They
+generally start by fasting for half days, and how proud they are,
+and how they gloat over other children who have not yet begun this
+work of devotion! Perhaps what the people who fast miss more than
+anything else during Ramadan is their smoking: they are such slaves
+to this habit, both men and women, that it is almost life to some
+of them, and they find it very hard to go without. When the cannon
+booms forth the hour of sunset, giving the Prophet's permission to
+his faithful ones to break their fast, generally the first thought,
+after moistening their lips with water, is that now they may enjoy
+their smoke, either of a cigarette or kalian.
+
+Mohurram is the month of mourning, when all the country mourns for
+Hassain and Hussein, the martyred sons of Ali, who are looked upon
+by the Shiahs as the rightful successors of the Prophet. During this
+season the majority of the people go into deep mourning, and the
+bazaars are sometimes draped in black. It is in this month that the
+great Passion Play of Persia is enacted, and while in Kerman we were
+fortunate enough to have an opportunity of witnessing this "tazieh,"
+as the Passion Play is called. It certainly was a sight worth seeing
+at least once in a lifetime.
+
+The tenth day of this month of Mohurram is the one set aside for this
+festival, and is kept as a general holiday, so that all might go to
+see the great spectacle enacted on that day in memory of the death
+of Hassain and Hussein, the two grandsons of Mohammed.
+
+The Governor of Kerman had kindly invited us to view the performance
+from his house, and accordingly that morning at about eight o'clock he
+sent his carriage for us, and we were driven through the packed bazaars
+till we arrived at his house, or "Arg," as the governor's residence
+is called in Kerman. We were at once admitted by a private entrance,
+and ushered into a large verandah, which had been set apart for the use
+of Feringhis. As my husband and I were the only Europeans in the city
+at that time, we had it to ourselves. Here, before the commencement
+of the Play, we were regaled with tea, coffee, jam, bread, cheese, and
+cakes. Looking out, the sight was a wonderful one. In front of us was
+a large garden in which I suppose some 10,000 people were gathered. At
+one end of the garden was a large "hoze" or tank of water, over which
+was spread a huge awning, and near by a large pulpit from which the
+mullahs preached to the people, and tried to rouse their feelings
+to a high pitch of excitement. One man was specially successful in
+doing this, causing the women to wail wildly and beat their breasts
+frantically, and the men to smite their heads. After a delay of about
+an hour, the performance began with a long procession, which entered
+the garden at the far end and wound in and out till it had traversed
+the whole garden. This procession represented the family travelling
+as captives after the death of Hassain and his brother.
+
+First of all came six gaily decorated camels, with men riding
+upon them, beating drums and making a tremendous noise. Then
+came more camels carrying the tent furniture and other goods,
+followed by horses and mules laden with heavy loads. After these
+came four stretchers borne by men, on which lay four dead bodies
+(figures stuffed) representing Hassain and his three brothers, who
+perished from want of water, which had been cut off from them by their
+enemies. On each dead body sat a dove, supposed to be mourning. Then
+came a horrible sight, one which I never wish to see again. About a
+hundred madly excited men dressed in long white robes, armed with
+swords, were slashing their heads until the blood was streaming
+down their faces on to the robes, white, alas, no longer! As they
+reached the tank of water they formed into a line all round it, and
+kept up for some length of time a horrible kind of war dance. It was
+a ghastly sight. The dancers looked more like demons than men. One
+poor man fainted from loss of blood, and had to be carried away,
+and a little boy of about eight years of age also collapsed. It was
+bad enough to see grown men cutting themselves, but to see the little
+children being wounded in this way was terrible. This is, of course,
+looked upon as a work of great merit. The more numerous and deeper
+the gashes, the greater the merit they accrue to themselves. The
+wild dance was continued till a sign was given to the dancers by
+the governor, that he had seen enough to satisfy him. Then they all
+lined up in front of the verandah where the governor was sitting, and
+demanded that five notorious prisoners should be released from the
+prison close by. He at once acceded to their request, as it was the
+custom at this festival for the governor to release from the prison
+any prisoners who are interceded for by these wild, fanatical dancers.
+
+After this ghastly sight came a motley crowd of men and children on
+horses, all beating their breasts or heads. Some of the riders were
+so tiny that they had to be held on to their steeds by men-servants.
+
+Then came another body on a bier, with a man dressed in a lion's skin,
+embracing and fondling the dead body. It looked so weird to see the
+pseudo-lion kissing and hugging the remains of its late friend and
+master, and expressing in various ways great sorrow and anguish over
+its loss.
+
+After this came several batches of boys stripped to the waist, all
+beating their breasts. It was really a very pretty sight, for the
+boys kept such perfect time, one boy acting as leader, like a group of
+children performing gymnastic exercises. As their hands simultaneously
+clapped their breasts, there was a sharp report, at which they all
+shouted "Hassain! Hussein! Hassain! Hussein!" The whole proceeding
+was an interesting but sad spectacle, which I shall never forget. The
+clash of swords, the beating of drums, the weird wailing of the women,
+accompanied by their spasmodic shrieks, the shouting and yelling of
+the fanatical mob, all contributed to the making up of one of the
+most notable scenes of Eastern life. And yet it made one's heart
+ache to watch this crowd of human beings for whom Christ died, and
+who as yet know nothing of Him, but are only anxious to obtain merit
+for themselves by taking part in these gruesome religious performances.
+
+All over Persia "religious men" are much looked up to and
+respected. Of these the dervish is one very much to the fore. He is
+a religious mendicant, having taken a vow either for a certain time
+or permanently. The vow is not a very strict one, only consisting
+of poverty and obedience to a chief, to whom a portion of the alms
+received must be paid.
+
+These dervishes wander from place to place, chanting, singing, and
+begging. The natives do not like to refuse them anything, from fear
+more than love, perhaps, as it is considered meritorious to give alms
+to these religious people.
+
+They generally dress in dirty white, wear their hair long, and carry
+an axe or club, more often than not beautifully chased and inlaid, also
+the well-known dervish bowl, which is made from a huge nut, carved and
+decorated. Often these dervishes will come and seat themselves in the
+courtyard and begin their monotonous chant, and it is very difficult
+to get them to move, as the servants will never use force, and their
+reiterated requests to "move on" meet with no success whatever till
+the dervish is satisfied that he has extracted all the "backsheesh"
+likely to be forthcoming.
+
+The Seyyids are another class of people much respected in the
+country. They claim to be the direct descendants of the prophet
+Mohammed, and are allowed many privileges on account of this. They
+wear a green turban or waistband, to be known of all men. Looked upon
+as a religious body, the natives are afraid to offend them in any way.
+
+Then there are the "mullahs," or priests of the Islamic faith. They
+exercise a great deal of power over the people, but are not, as a rule,
+loved by them over much.
+
+The Persians are Shiah Mohammedans, whilst the Arabs and Turks are
+Sunnis. As the former know very little Arabic, the reading of the
+Koran is to them an unknown tongue, and they regard their "mullahs" as
+"sacred men," able to interpret the "Holy Book." Thus the Shiah priest
+gains great influence, not to say considerable wealth, in Persia, and
+the Shah himself fears the influence of the priesthood. The Sunnis, on
+the other hand, know Arabic, as a general rule, and many of them are
+able to consult the Koran for themselves, the result being that the
+"mullah" gains but little influence compared to the "Shiah" priest,
+and is often quite poor. Briefly, the Shiah priesthood is comparable
+with that of the Roman Catholic Church of Christendom, while "Sunni"
+mullahs do not claim, or would claim in vain, any such authority, thus
+more nearly resembling the "status" of Church of England clergy. The
+result is obvious: Persia is a priest-ridden country; in "Sunni"
+lands the people are freer, and dare think for themselves. It is
+a well-known fact that a Persian mullah will exact the uttermost
+farthing from his followers, but will never lend a helping hand to
+them in their need. For instance, if a man dies without an heir, his
+property according to law goes to the poor, but unfortunately it has to
+be done through a medium, and that medium is the mullah. He promptly
+pockets the property and gives its supposed value (valued, mark you,
+by himself) to the poor. We can imagine what a large percentage the
+poor receive of that property.
+
+Here is a story which was told us in Kerman, illustrating how loath
+the mullahs are to give anything away. The scene is a large pool of
+water, in it a mullah struggling to reach the bank, and in danger
+of drowning. A passer-by, seeing his distress, runs to his aid and
+cries, "Give me your hand, oh my lord, and I will pull you out." "No,
+indeed," answers the mullah, "I have never yet given anything to
+any one, and I certainly will not begin now." The kindly passer-by,
+not liking to leave the mullah in his sad condition, tries to think
+of another way out of the difficulty. Suddenly a bright idea strikes
+him, and running to the priest, he calls out, "Will you take my hand,
+then, oh my lord?" "Gladly," says the mullah, and allows himself to
+be drawn out of his perilous position.
+
+Another rather good story is told, showing the meanness of the
+priests. A man had agreed to pay a workman eight krans (2s. 8d.) for
+digging a hole one yard square. At the end of the day the workman had
+only dug a hole half a yard square, so the master went to a mullah to
+ask him how much he ought to pay the workman. "Why, of course," says
+the mullah, "half the sum agreed upon, that is, four krans." After
+deliberating awhile he said, "No, two krans is enough," and this
+decision he gave as final, although he impressed upon the man that
+one kran was all he could legally claim, as he had scientifically
+only done one-eighth of his work!
+
+In the next chapter we shall see a little of another religious sect,
+which is fast becoming a power in Persia.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+OTHER RELIGIOUS SECTS
+
+    Other religious sects--The Bįb and Babism--Short sketch of
+    life of the Bįb--His imprisonment and execution--Parsees, or
+    Zoroastrians--Persecutions of Parsees in seventh century--Sacred
+    writings of Parsees, Zendavesta--Fire-worshipping--Fire
+    temples--Holy fire--Parsee wedding--Costume of women--Death
+    customs--Burial customs.
+
+
+            "How many crimes have in religion's name been wrought."
+
+                                                              Lucretius.
+
+
+                               "Too oft religion has the mother been
+                                Of impious act and criminal."
+
+                                                              Lucretius.
+
+
+The founder of Babism was a native of Shiraz, by name Mirza Ali
+Muhammed, born in 1820; it was not till 1844 that he publicly
+proclaimed himself to be The Bįb or Gate, through which all who wished
+for peace and happiness might pass into the inner chambers of mysticism
+and sacred mysteries. He soon gathered a large following around him,
+and in an astonishingly short time the fame of the Bįb was noised
+abroad throughout the length and breadth of Persia. At first the
+Government and mullahs paid little attention to this new religion,
+thinking and believing it to be only a passing fancy of the people,
+but in its second year it took such rapid strides that they began to
+be alarmed, and to look about for means of checking its progress. The
+Bįb was placed in prison, and his followers were forbidden, on pain
+of death, to teach or discuss their new religion. Soon afterwards,
+however, the Bįb escaped, and fled to Isphahan, where the governor
+of that city protected him for some months, but on the death of the
+governor the Bįb was again cast into prison. During his imprisonment
+he was not idle, for he wrote many books, setting forth his doctrines,
+and exhorting his followers to remain firm to their new faith in the
+face of all opposition and persecution.
+
+While the Bįb was busy in prison, his followers were also busy,
+preaching and teaching, and by all means trying to extend the doctrines
+of their leader, and so great was the opposition and strife raised
+that the Government decided that the Bįb must forfeit his life as a
+means of putting a stop once and for all to this new and dangerous
+sect. Accordingly the Bįb was brought from Tabriz, where he had been
+imprisoned, and after a mock trial was sentenced to death. On the day
+appointed for his execution an enormous crowd gathered to witness his
+end--many from curiosity, and also many from love and pity for the
+youthful martyr, who to the last maintained the calmness and courage
+which had characterised his whole term of imprisonment.
+
+To make the lesson more emphatic, it was decided that two of the
+Bįb's chief disciples were to be executed with him. One of these
+at the last moment recanted, and so was allowed to go free. It was
+said that his recantation arose not from cowardice or fear of death,
+but from a special revelation given to him, whereby he was commanded
+to recant in order to be able to carry away all books and papers
+belonging to the Bįb, and deposit them in a safe place: however that
+may be, it is known that after an interval of two years he too became a
+martyr. Efforts were made to entice the other disciple to recant, but
+all proved unavailing, and he and his master the Bįb were suspended,
+by ropes placed under their arms, to a beam placed a few feet from
+the ground. As they hung thus the disciple was heard to say, "Master,
+art thou satisfied with me?" and then the order was given to fire. When
+the smoke cleared away the body of the disciple was found to be riddled
+with bullets, but no Bįb was visible. What had happened? Had a miracle
+been performed, and an angel been sent to rescue him from the hand of
+his persecutors? This was the thought of some, and, indeed, a miracle
+had been performed, for in spite of the many bullets which had been
+aimed at him not one had touched the Bįb, but had only brought him
+deliverance by severing the ropes which bound him, so that he fell
+to the ground unhurt. At first it seemed as if the multitude would
+have pity on the unfortunate man, and spare him a second attempt,
+but these feelings were only of short duration, and the Bįb was again
+dragged forth from his hiding-place, where he had taken refuge, and
+was a second time suspended. A fresh batch of soldiers had to be told
+off for the execution, as the first company absolutely refused to fire
+again. This time there was no intervention, and in a second or two
+the body of the young martyr of Shiraz was pierced with bullets. The
+bodies were cast out to the jackals, but were afterwards recovered
+and buried in Teheran by the order of the new Bįb, Mirza Yahya.
+
+This event took place in 1850, and in spite of persecutions,
+oppositions, and cruelties, the Babis continued to grow in number and
+strength, and to-day they form a very large and important community
+throughout Persia. In fact, by the very barbarity of the persecutors
+their own end was defeated, for all the people were astonished at the
+heroism and fortitude displayed by the martyrs. Professor Brown [1]
+says, "Often have I heard Persians who did not themselves belong to
+the proscribed sect tell with admiration how Suleymįn Khan, his body
+pierced with well-nigh a score of wounds, in each of which was inserted
+a lighted candle, went to his execution singing with exultation." The
+effect of such courage and heroism was only to stir up more people
+to be disciples of the Bįb, as the following story shows.
+
+During the persecutions in Yezd, a young man went to scoff and jeer,
+but when he saw with what courage the martyrs endured torture,
+and met death, he called out, "I am a Babi, kill me too." While we
+were in Yezd the Babis were keeping very quiet, but, nevertheless,
+a great work was going on amongst them, but none dared say, "I am
+a Babi." A year or two after our departure from Persia we heard of
+terrible cruelties and persecutions enacted against these suffering
+people, but in spite of all, their number continues to grow and
+increase throughout the whole land of Persia, and to-day the Babis
+are stronger and more numerous than ever before.
+
+The Parsees of Persia are another most interesting and important
+sect: they live chiefly in Yezd and Kerman. They are a people within
+a people, living in Persia, and with the Persians, yet keeping quite
+distinct from the present inhabitants of the land. Only a few thousand
+of this large and influential body of people, who up till the seventh
+century were the inhabitants of the land, now remain in Persia. When
+the armies of Mohammed conquered Persia, most of these people fled to
+India; others preferred to adhere to the new religion, while a few
+remained faithful to their old belief, and refused either to flee
+to a new and strange country, or to change their creed, and so they
+remain till this day a distinct people, following their own customs,
+and holding to their own religion amidst a new and domineering nation.
+
+The founder of the Parsee religion was one called Zoroaster. Very
+little is known of his life; his birthplace is uncertain, though it
+is known he lived for many years in Bactria of Eastern Persia, and it
+is probable that it was in this place that he thought out the idea,
+from which in later years he constructed his religious system. The
+priests of this religion were the "magi" of the Old and New Testament,
+and it is very likely that at least one of the "wise men of the East"
+who went to offer their adoration to the new-born King was from these
+Parsees of Persia.
+
+The date of Zoroaster is very uncertain too. It is known, however,
+that in the sixth century B.C., when Cyrus was king, the Zoroastrian
+religion was firmly established in Western Persia. Some historians
+give him a date between 1000 and 1400 B.C.
+
+The sacred writings of the Parsees are called the Zendavesta, and are
+said to be inspired by God through one of their priests. This priest,
+having cleansed and bathed himself in the most careful manner, lay
+down to sleep clothed in pure white linen. He is said to have fallen
+into a deep sleep, from which he did not awake for seven days; at the
+end of which time he awoke and recited the faith of the Zoroastrians,
+while priests in waiting committed the whole to writing. In this way
+was the Zendavesta reduced to the form of a book.
+
+While fire-worshipping forms a large part of their religion, it is
+quite a mistake to suppose it comprises the whole, for Zoroaster laid
+down many laws concerning morality and the duties and destiny of man.
+
+The Parsees of to-day, as seen in Kerman and Yezd, are a fine race;
+their commercial ability is very much above that of the ordinary
+Persian, and they are a much cleaner and more moral set of people
+than their conquerors. They regard fire as something sacred, as being
+the symbol of their god, and nothing will induce them to treat fire
+lightly. For instance, we could never persuade our Parsee servants
+to blow out a candle; and smoking is prohibited on account of their
+religious principles, though nowadays many do smoke in secret. Their
+habits of cleanliness and continual personal ablutions have perhaps
+contributed to make them the healthy race they are to-day. A good
+Parsee will wash many times a day, always before and after praying,
+as well as on many other occasions.
+
+All Parsees wear a girdle round their waists, twisted into three
+knots in a most complicated and intricate way. Whenever they wash
+they must take this off, and after their ablutions are over they
+replace the girdle, repeating certain prayers for each knot. These
+three knots represent the threefold cord, which is not easily broken,
+of good thoughts, good words, good deeds.
+
+There are said to be some thirty or forty fire temples still existing
+in Yezd, and in these the holy fire is always burning; the light is
+never allowed to go out, it being the work of the priests to keep it
+continually bright and trimmed.
+
+The office of priesthood descends from father to son, and besides
+attending to the religious needs of the people, the priest is also
+supposed to look after their temporal necessities, especially in the
+case of poverty-stricken families.
+
+Parsee women have a much freer life than their Persian sisters;
+they go about the streets quite openly, never veiling their faces,
+and altogether enjoy a much better position than the Mohammedan
+women. In some cases the women are even allowed to eat with the men
+of the house--a great concession indeed! The children are bright, and
+in many cases clever. When seven days old an astrologer is consulted
+as to the future of the infant; and when seven years old a boy is
+blessed by the priest, who invests him with the sacred girdle, at the
+same time throwing upon the child's head portions of fruit, spices,
+and drops of perfume.
+
+Girls are married when quite young, and the astrologer is again
+consulted on this important matter. When in Yezd we were invited
+to a Parsee wedding, and a very interesting sight it was. The
+invitation--which was written in letters of gold, and arrived some days
+before the date fixed for the ceremony--was acknowledged and accepted
+by us with much pleasure, as we were anxious to see something of the
+customs of these interesting people.
+
+When the day arrived we arrayed ourselves in gala attire, and set
+out to the house of the bride. It was just midnight when we arrived,
+and already the guests, some hundreds of them, had been feasting
+for hours--in fact, I might say "days," for this was the seventh
+and last day of the wedding festivities, and many of the guests
+had been present each day. They all looked thoroughly worn-out and
+tired. A room had been set apart for the Europeans to dine in, and
+just after midnight a most sumptuous dinner was served, consisting
+of about a dozen courses. When this had been satisfactorily disposed
+of we dispersed to visit the different rooms occupied by the guests,
+my husband remaining with the men, while I and another English lady
+sought out the bride to give her our salaams and good wishes. The
+confusion was terrible--drums beating, cymbals clashing, women dancing
+and singing, children yelling and crying, and amid it all, seated
+upon the ground, sat the poor little bride-elect. No one seemed to
+be taking much notice of her, every one apparently aiming to amuse
+herself in the most noisy way possible.
+
+By-and-by a large, silk-covered cushion was brought out from a
+back room, and on this the bride was placed, and covered entirely
+with a large silk shawl. I wondered what was going to happen next,
+when suddenly a group of men appeared at the door. These were the
+representatives of the bridegroom, who came to ask formally for the
+hand of the bride. They came and stood in front of the covered-up
+bride, and called in a loud voice, "Oh, my daughter, will you
+consent to be the bride of this man?" (naming the bridegroom). This
+was repeated six times amidst a silence which could be felt, all
+listening for the answer of the bride. On their repeating the question
+the seventh time, a very timid "Balli" (Yes) was heard coming from
+the region of the shawl, upon which the commotion started again with
+redoubled vigour, in the excitement caused by the acceptance on the
+part of the bride of her bridegroom. Of course this was a mere form,
+as everything had been arranged long beforehand. I shocked one good
+old lady by asking what would happen if the bride had said "No"
+instead of "Yes" to the oft-repeated question!
+
+After receiving this very satisfactory answer to their inquiries the
+men went off, and the women began to prepare the bride for the last and
+most important part of the programme--viz. that of taking her to the
+home of the bridegroom. They covered her with a large silk chuddar,
+and over her head threw a thick shawl, so that the poor girl could
+see nothing, and had to be led and supported on each side by her
+proud relatives. The distance between the two houses might perhaps
+have taken five minutes to walk in an ordinary way, but that night
+we took quite an hour. The procession was headed by two "vakeels"
+(agents), who were bargaining the whole way as to the dowry of the
+bride. Every now and then they would come to a standstill, and the
+bride's vakeel would refuse to go a step further till more money had
+been paid, and after a great deal of shouting, gesticulating, and
+wrangling, the bridegroom's vakeel would end by throwing some coins
+into the other's hand, and then the procession would proceed for a few
+steps till blocked once more, while the whole process of bargaining
+was gone through again. Fireworks were going off the whole time,
+and were apparently laid along the route, for every now and then we
+were startled by having a rocket fly up from beneath our feet. About
+every twenty yards or so we came across huge bonfires of dried faggots
+right in our path, and the whole procession had to wait till these
+had died down before they could pass on. Arriving at the door of the
+bridegroom's house, a final and most exciting scene took place between
+the two vakeels, the one threatening even then to take the bride away,
+and the other, getting more wildly angry every minute, declaring he did
+not want the bride, and would not pay a "para" (1/2d.) more for her,
+and ending up by giving the sum bargained for. If we had not known
+it was all part of the ceremony, we might have expected the two men
+to come to blows; but it all ended happily, and we trooped into the
+new home of the bride. Then came a long time of weary waiting, during
+which my sympathies went out to the tired, frightened bride; but just
+as we thought there was nothing more to wait for, three interesting
+scenes took place. The first was the actual marriage ceremony, in
+which a priest read many long prayers from a book, and then tied the
+couple together with a silk thread and pronounced a blessing upon them.
+
+The second scene took place in the open courtyard, in the centre of
+which was burning the sacred fire placed on a pedestal. The priest
+and parents of the bride and bridegroom now joined hands with the
+happy couple and walked in solemn single file round and round the
+fire, the priest chanting the whole time; this was done seven times,
+and then all retired quietly, leaving the fire burning in the court.
+
+To the third and final scene only a favoured few were admitted;
+fortunately I was amongst that number. Into the room prepared for the
+newly-married couple the little wife was now led, and for the first
+time the coverings were taken from her head and face. She was placed
+on a huge silk-covered mattress, then the husband came and took his
+seat by her side: both of them were looking thoroughly miserable! One
+of the women then brought a copper basin and ewer filled with milk,
+and the bridegroom proceeded to wash his wife's feet in milk, and she
+in her turn washed his hands. This done, we all bade farewell to the
+newly-married couple and the wedding ceremony was at an end. Hastily
+saying good-bye to our host and hostess, and expressing our good
+wishes for the welfare and happiness of the young people, we made
+our way homewards, to find it was not very far off dawn, but having
+thoroughly enjoyed our first experience of a Parsee wedding ceremony.
+
+The costume of the Parsee women is rather quaint and pretty; it
+consists of very baggy trousers gathered in at the ankle. These
+trousers are often made of very pretty pieces of embroidery joined
+together. As soon almost as a girl can sew she begins to embroider
+strips of brightly-coloured materials in order to have them ready
+for her wedding trousseau. Over these garments they wear a loose
+shirt reaching to just below the knees; this is also made of strips
+of different coloured materials, or in the case of a bride is also
+embroidered. Then comes the head-dress: it is far beyond my powers
+to say of how many pieces this is composed, or as to how they are
+arranged. The number of coverings on their heads is legion! First comes
+a little tight cap fitting closely over the head and ears. Over this is
+arranged in a most marvellous way some six or seven different pieces
+of calico or linen, the top one of all generally being a very bright
+calico, a mixture of red and yellow being the favourite pattern. The
+men are obliged to wear dowdy colours as a mark of submission to the
+powers that be. For the same reason also they are not allowed to ride
+through the bazaars, and if a Parsee is riding outside the city and
+meets a Moslem he promptly has to dismount and walk till he has passed
+his more fortunate neighbour; then he may resume his riding. This is,
+I believe, the case even if the Moslem be a poor man and the Parsee
+a flourishing merchant.
+
+To pass from life to death. A Parsee when he is dying sends for
+the priest, who anoints him with sacred juice, repeats some verses
+from the "Avesta," and prays for a safe crossing of the "bridge" and
+admission into Paradise. As soon as the breath has left the body,
+a dog is brought in from the street to ascertain if life is really
+extinct. This idea originated evidently from the old Zoroastrian
+idea that the evil spirit is expelled from a dead body by means of
+a "four-eyed dog" being brought in and made to look at the dead,
+the extra "two" eyes being represented by two black spots over the
+brow of the dog. The body is then placed on a bier and carried to the
+Towers of Silence, or "dakhmehs," by men specially set apart for that
+purpose. These men are looked upon as unclean from their contact with
+the dead, therefore only those whose work it is to do so will touch
+the body, the cleansing necessary after defilement from contact with
+the dead being so exacting and laborious.
+
+On arriving at the dakhmeh, prayers are recited by the priests and
+the body laid on an iron grating, so that when the vultures and other
+birds of prey have done their horrible work, the bones fall down and
+are safe from molestation by dogs and jackals.
+
+The dakhmehs, always some distance from the town, are built in
+a circular shape, some of the largest being 200 or so feet in
+diameter. They are generally built on rising ground, and form a
+landmark for many miles around.
+
+Prayers for the dead are said for three or four days after the death,
+and holy fire is kept burning in the house of the deceased during
+the whole of that time, as the soul is not supposed to leave the body
+till the fourth day after death.
+
+The better-class Parsees "mourn" for a year after the death of a near
+relative; that is, they keep up certain ceremonials for that length
+of time, and offer flowers and fruits on behalf of their dead.
+
+The Parsees have a governing body called the Anjiman. This consists of
+a number of leading men, representatives of each class of society. The
+Persian Government acknowledges the Anjiman, and accepts one of its
+number to act as its representative.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+DESERT DELIGHTS
+
+    Songs of the desert--Sunsets, sunrises, mirages--Illness in the
+    desert--Mehman khanehs, caravanserais--Chappa khanehs--Lost in
+    the desert--Its cruelties, and sadness.
+
+
+                                                 "The desert wide
+                            Lies round thee like a trackless tide
+                            In waves of sand forlornly multiplied."
+
+                                                            F. W. Faber.
+
+
+To a lover of the desert a journey across its boundless tracts is
+always full of interest and delight. It is strange what an attraction
+the desert has for some people, and stranger still is the fact that
+this magnetic power increases as time passes, and instead of wearying
+of the wilderness, they love it more and more. And any one who has once
+heard the call of the desert is always longing to answer that call, and
+to fly once more, as a needle to its magnet, to that great, wondrous
+world. For it is a world of its own, this great, boundless ocean of
+sand--a world altogether different from any other part of God's earth.
+
+I once heard an address on "The Desert," and the speaker said that
+he did not think it possible for any one with an uneasy conscience
+to bear the solitariness of the desert. Be this as it may, one thing
+is sure: no one can live and travel in the desert without feeling
+the majestic Presence of God. Everything speaks of Him, the great
+sea of sand, the flowers springing into blossom at His word, the
+tiny lizard darting across your path, and other countless creatures,
+all finding life and sustenance in the desert, each telling of the
+wonderful Creator who watches over and cares for all.
+
+The songs of the desert, too, are fascinating; songs which, heard
+elsewhere, would seem incongruous and lacking in harmony. The camel
+or mule bells, booming out in the silence of the night, remind one
+of home and loved ones. Often have I been awakened in the night
+by the sound of the caravan bells, and for a moment thought they
+were the bells of the dear old church in Devonshire. Then, again,
+the crooning songs of the muleteer, as he trudges along hour after
+hour, have a peculiar charm, which grows on one wondrously after a
+while. And what can be said of the marvellous mirages--visions which
+come as messengers of hope and leave us victims of despair? For who
+has not experienced relief and joy at the sight of some beautiful
+mirage, resembling the welcome sight of a village with trees and
+water, all apparently within easy reach of the weary traveller,
+but which in a moment of time vanish, leaving blank disappointment
+behind. And where can be seen such glorious sunset effects as in
+the desert? especially when, as is so often the case in Persia, the
+desert is surrounded by mountains and hills, which catch the after
+glow, and reflect all those indescribable shades of crimson, gold,
+and blue, all merging into a beatific and not easily forgotten vision.
+
+But to come to the more practical side of desert life. Travelling in
+the desert is not all a path of roses, but, given good health, fine
+weather, and pleasant company, it is a very enjoyable way of passing
+two or three weeks. On the other hand, I know of nothing more wretched
+than being overtaken by illness when far away in the desert. Then you
+feel how utterly alone and helpless you are, for it is impossible to
+travel on, and at the same time well-nigh impossible to stay where
+you are! We have had this experience more than once during our many
+travels, and found it not at all pleasant. Once I was taken ill in this
+way, and the only place to be found as shelter was a filthy stable,
+full of rats, cockroaches, and other horrible creatures.
+
+If you wish thoroughly to enjoy a journey across the desert, you must
+choose your time well and wisely. The best time is the early spring,
+before the great heat begins. If it is essential to travel during
+the summer, all the stages have to be done by night, and this is much
+more tiring, as it is seldom possible to sleep during the day owing
+to the pest of flies, mosquitoes, and other lively companions.
+
+The rest-houses of Persia are of three grades or kinds, viz. "mehman
+khanehs," "chappa khanehs," and caravanserais. The first of these
+three are found between Resht and Teheran. They are supposed to
+be run after the plan of a European hotel! Beds are supplied, and
+sometimes a tooth-brush and comb! The traveller is shown into a room
+in which the beds are kept ready for all passers-by: it is not thought
+necessary to change the bedding too often! The furniture consists of a
+washstand, table, and couple of chairs, and everything is as dirty as
+can be. I much prefer the ordinary caravanserai, which is found all
+over Persia. These are generally built by a wealthy man who wishes
+to do some "good deed," to make a name for himself, and gain merit
+in Paradise. A caravanserai is not the cleanest spot on earth! But
+after travelling a little you get used to a certain amount of dirt,
+and are very much surprised if by chance you come across a fairly
+clean rest-house. These caravanserais are built, as a rule, in the
+form of a square, the sides of which are occupied by rooms leading off
+the courtyard, the centre being the resting-place of mules, donkeys,
+horses, and all other kinds of animals. At the end of the stage you
+fix on the cleanest of these rooms, and your servant sweeps all the
+accumulated dirt and dust of ages into one corner, thus raising a
+cloud of dust and disturbing the peace of myriads of "pilgrims of the
+desert." After waiting a few minutes to allow the dust to settle a
+little, you then furnish your room for the night by spreading a rug on
+the filthy floor, and setting up your travelling beds, chair, tables,
+&c. As likely as not, there will be no door to the room, so you knock
+in a couple of nails and fasten a curtain over the doorway to keep
+out the prying eyes of your too near and inquisitive neighbours. Then
+you begin to think about your evening meal, and your servant goes off
+to bargain and wrangle over some unfortunate fowl, the result being
+that in about an hour's time your dinner is ready, and shortly after
+you very thankfully retire to rest, hoping for the best.
+
+The chappa khanehs, or post-houses, are often a trifle cleaner than
+the caravanserai. Here the animals are kept for the post, and any
+one travelling "chappa" is supposed to find fresh relays of horses
+at each of these places, but very often the number is short, and the
+poor, wretched, underfed animal has to do duty for a second stage: a
+"stage" is anything from fifteen to thirty miles. My husband once rode
+"chappa" from Yezd to Kerman, a distance of 250 miles, in 2 1/2 days,
+to attend an English doctor who was very ill with typhoid fever. It
+was very hard and rough riding; the roads were bad, the horses worse,
+some of the animals being blind, others lame, while the majority of
+them were so over-worked and badly fed that it seemed impossible
+that they could ever do the stage. A doctor once riding in this
+way to visit a European, is said to have arrived at one of these
+post-houses, and finding no horse, demanded a mule. On this beast
+he made the next stage, to be told on arrival that there was only
+a donkey available. Nothing better presenting itself, he accepted
+this mount, and in time reached the next stage, where he was met
+with the comforting announcement that the only animal at liberty was
+a cow! History seems uncertain after this point, so we will draw a
+veil over it!
+
+Sometimes these caravanserais and chappa khanehs are the only signs
+of life to be seen at the end of a stage. There they stand, alone,
+surrounded on all hands by vast stretches of desert, and form a
+landmark for miles around. One such I remember very well, as each
+time we passed that way it seemed to have become more lonely and
+desolate. Visible from a distance of 5 farsakhs (18 miles), it made
+the stage seem very long! The atmosphere is so rarefied that distant
+objects appear near, and the buildings, which were in reality 15 miles
+away, looked quite close at hand. In this chappa khaneh we were once
+guilty of inscribing our names on its already well-filled walls. Some
+years after a lady was visiting us in Mosul, and told us she had read
+our names in that far-distant chappa khaneh.
+
+It is not a very pleasant sensation to be lost in a desert. Only once
+did this experience befall us, and then we were glad when it was over.
+
+We were on our way from Yezd to Kerman, and had reached the second
+stage out. We had arranged with our muleteer to start at a certain
+hour that morning, but when we came down from the "bala khaneh"
+(upstairs room) where we had been sleeping, we found no signs of our
+caravan being ready to start. After loitering about for some time, we
+decided not to wait any longer, but to ride on ahead. This was quite
+contrary to our usual custom, as we always found it wiser to see the
+caravan off first, otherwise the muleteers dawdled half the morning
+away. However, we thought this once we would alter our plans, as the
+dawn was even then breaking, and we knew that in a very short time
+the sun would be scorchingly hot. So off we went, telling our servant
+to follow as soon as possible. We received minute instructions as to
+which direction we were to take, and thought we could not possibly
+mistake our road.
+
+Outside the town, on the edge of the desert, we came to two roads, one
+leading straight ahead, the other branching to the left. We decided
+to take the former, thinking it looked more trodden, thereby showing
+more signs of traffic. So we went gaily on. My husband occasionally
+remarked, "I hope we are on the right road," and I always lightly
+answered, "Oh yes, I am sure we are," as I pointed out to him the
+fact that we were following the same path along which another caravan
+had evidently passed a few hours before. Howbeit we were not on the
+right road, as we very soon found to our cost. By this time the sun
+was blazing down upon us, and we began to wonder why our servants and
+caravan had not caught us up. Time went on, and not a sign of life
+was to be seen. Standing in our stirrups, we scanned the horizon, but
+nothing could we see but the scorching sand. We then began seriously to
+think that we had taken the wrong turning and were lost. Lost in the
+desert, without a drop of water or a scrap of food! Pleasant thoughts
+these were as companions! We could not go back: to go forward was
+worse than useless. After considering a little as to the best thing
+to be done, we decided to gallop on till we came to a small hill to
+be seen in the distance. This we accordingly did, and as we neared
+the summit saw to our great thankfulness a tiny speck on the horizon
+in the direction from which we had come. This "speck" soon developed
+into a moving object, and by-and-by we could see the figure of a
+man and horse galloping hard. As the horse and rider came nearer,
+our thankfulness was indeed great to see that the rider was our own
+servant, George. If ever we had cause for thankfulness it was then,
+and we certainly said, and felt from our very hearts, "Alhamd' llillah"
+(Praise be to God!), and vowed we would never stray away again from
+our caravan unless we were quite sure of our road.
+
+Our man was so delighted to see us safe and sound that he wept for
+joy. After a long delay the caravan had at last started from the chappa
+khaneh just as the sun was rising, and set out upon its way. They were
+all surprised to think we had gone so far, but concluded at first
+that we had galloped on in order to reach the lunching-place before
+the great heat. On arriving at the spot, however, great was their
+dismay to find we had not yet arrived. Our servant immediately rode
+back to the village to make inquiries. On his way he met a man who
+told him he had seen us riding off in the opposite direction. George
+immediately took the path indicated, with the result already told. By
+the time we regained our caravan we were well-nigh worn out with heat
+and thirst, having been under the blazing sun without food or water
+for most of the hottest hours of the day, but very thankful to be on
+the right track once more.
+
+One thing that saddens a European traveller during a journey in
+Persia is to see the cruel way in which the muleteer often treats
+his animals. The sufferings of these poor beasts are terrible. I
+often longed to be able to thrash the muleteer for his cruelty to
+a poor, long-suffering little donkey. Bowed down, maybe, under a
+load twice his own size, the poor ass does his best to keep up with
+the other animals, but only receives kicks and hard knocks for his
+pains. The wretched creature is urged on and on by having a steel
+or iron instrument run into some horribly sore place by his kind
+and compassionate owner. Often have I seen a mule or donkey stumble
+and fall beneath its enormous load, unable to raise itself, till its
+master with blows and curses comes to lend a hand. Again and again
+will this happen, till at last the poor beast can go no further,
+and is left to its fate. Death is the kindest master some of these
+suffering creatures possess.
+
+I remember once seeing a mule unloaded, and the sight under the
+pack-saddle was enough to make one's heart ache. A deep wound about
+twelve inches long was exposed to view, just under the arch of the
+saddle, where all the heaviest pressure and friction came. The owner
+then heated till red hot a long wire rod, passing it through and
+through this wound till the poor creature was nearly mad with pain and
+agony. The next day a boy was ordered to ride this wretched beast,
+but the stench from the wound was so great, and the flies attracted
+by it so numerous, that he could not endure it, and asked to be
+given another animal. This request was granted, but the poor brute
+of a mule had to pay the penalty by receiving an extra load upon his
+poor wounded back. At the first town we came to, the muleteer sold
+this mule, doubtless to some one who would work the last particle of
+strength out of him. Poor burdened beasts of the desert! one can only
+hope for them a speedy end to their troubles, and rest hereafter.
+
+Another sad sight to be seen in the desert sometimes, are brick pillars
+in which some unfortunate victim has been walled up alive. This is a
+horrible method of inflicting capital punishment. The victim is put
+into the pillar, which is half built up in readiness; then if the
+executioner is merciful he will cement quickly up to the face, and
+death comes speedily. But sometimes a small amount of air is allowed
+to permeate through the bricks, and in this case the torture is cruel
+and the agony prolonged. Men bricked up in this way have been heard
+groaning and calling for water at the end of three days. At other
+times the victim is placed in the pillar head first, and in this way
+he is walled up.
+
+The first time I saw these pillars was in the desert outside Yezd,
+and I could hardly believe the awful tales which were told me of the
+cruelties perpetrated; but alas, they were all too true! It is sad
+that the beauty of the desert should be desecrated by such things.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+PERSIAN MEDICAL MISSIONS [2]
+
+    The need of them--Work in Isphahan--The "little devil" transformed
+    into a boy--Amputation--Brothers in adversity--H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan
+    as a patient--Fanaticism overcome.
+
+
+                   "What restless forms to-day are lying, bound
+                    On sick beds, waiting till the hour come round
+                    That brings thy foot upon the chamber stair,
+                    Impatient, fevered, faint, till thou art there,
+                    The one short smile of sunshine to make light
+                    The long remembrance of another night."
+
+                                                    H. E. Hamilton King.
+
+
+"Medical Missions" need no apology or excuse. Even in the comparatively
+few years that have elapsed since their commencement, they have
+abundantly justified their existence, both from the missionary
+standpoint, and also as philanthropic agencies. If this be true
+for purely pagan lands, it applies even more accurately to work in
+Mohammedan countries. Medical missionary work is, without doubt, the
+golden key that unlocks the door of the heart of the most fanatical
+Moslem, be he Persian, Arab, Kurd, or Yezidee (devil worshipper). I
+write this deliberately, after eight years' experience in Persia,
+Palestine, and Mesopotamia. But in this book it is not meant specially
+to emphasise the missionary aspect of our life in these distant lands,
+but more to give a slight glimpse of native life as we found it, and
+the following, therefore, must be taken as notes from a doctor's diary,
+covering a period of eight years' work in Persia and Mesopotamia.
+
+The year 1900 found us at Isphahan. We were living in Julfa, the
+Armenian suburb of that great city, and I had temporary charge
+of the C.M.S. Medical Mission. The hospital at that period was
+simply a native house that had been adapted, more or less, for the
+requirements of a dispensary and hospital. There was no lack of work,
+patients coming from Isphahan itself, and from all the country round
+about. Soon after settling down to the routine work, a little Persian
+boy was brought to me from an outlying village by his father. He was
+about twelve years of age, and his face was badly disfigured from a
+"hare-lip." The Persians believe that this congenital malformation is
+the mark left by the foot of the Evil One, so this poor boy was known
+in his village by the unenviable title "little devil," and had been a
+good deal tormented by his playfellows. He was admitted to hospital,
+operated upon successfully, and after some ten days' careful treatment
+the dressing was finally removed, and I handed the boy a mirror that
+he might look for the first time upon his "new" face. As I watched
+his countenance while he regarded himself steadfastly in the glass,
+I was amply repaid for the time and trouble spent, by his look of joy,
+incredulity, and amazement. Tears of joy rolled down his face as he
+kissed my hand, and murmured brokenly, "I am no longer a little devil,
+I am no longer a little devil!" He could go back to his village now
+gladly, no longer fearing to join in the games of his comrades, and I
+feel sure he afterwards often posed as a hero in his little village,
+as, the centre of an admiring throng, he recounted the details of
+his visit, treatment, and cure at the Mission Hospital.
+
+In all Mohammedan lands, doctors always find it extremely difficult
+to persuade their patients to submit to amputation. However hopeless
+a condition the injured limb may be in, many would rather die than
+enter Paradise maimed. Some perhaps fancy that after death, when the
+prophet Mohammed comes to conduct them over that fragile bridge that
+leads to the "realm of the blest," he would indignantly repudiate
+the claims of an armless or legless disciple! However that may be,
+the fact remains that many a poor patient dies who might, by timely
+amputation, have recovered and lived for many years. But curiously
+enough, soon after our arrival in Julfa, I admitted, within a few
+days of each other, two Persians suffering from diseases of the legs
+necessitating amputation, and both, after much persuasion, agreed to
+the operation being performed. Both were men, and had been admitted
+to different wards, but as after-events proved, neither knew of the
+other's presence in the hospital: both thus believed that he was
+the only Mohammedan doomed to pass the rest of his life bereft of
+one leg, with the possible risk of non-admittance hereafter to the
+Moslem Paradise.
+
+The two amputations were duly performed, on different days; the
+amputated limbs being at once handed to the relatives for decent
+interment. Both patients made good recoveries, their progress being
+somewhat retarded by their continual lamentation over their irreparable
+loss. In due course of time, crutches were provided, and the two men
+were encouraged to practise walking with their aid. A day or two later
+I was standing at the door of the operation theatre, which opened into
+a corridor, with which both the men's wards communicated. Suddenly the
+doors of each ward opened simultaneously, and on the threshold stood
+these two men, leaning on their crutches, their faces a perfect picture
+as they beheld each other. Remember that, in some curious manner,
+neither had heard of the presence of the other in the hospital, and
+both firmly believed that he was the only Mohammedan that had ever
+submitted to the indignity of losing a limb, and lo and behold, here
+was a brother in affliction! Crutches were hurled on one side, and
+the two men, hopping across the corridor, excitement lending them the
+needed strength, fell into each other's arms, rolling over and over
+on the floor, weeping, condoling, exclaiming, while we watched the
+scene, highly amused, but also feeling inclined to weep in sympathy.
+
+The Governor of Isphahan was H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan (Shadow of the King),
+elder brother of the late Shah. In former years he had been much
+more powerful, and practically ruled over Southern Persia, but his
+enemies in Teheran roused the suspicions of the Shah against him. He
+was summoned to the capital, and there kept a prisoner in his house,
+but ultimately allowed to return to Isphahan shorn of his former power.
+
+The Zil-es-Sultan had his own private physician, but would often call
+in the English doctor either for himself or his household; in this
+way I made his acquaintance, and, like most Europeans who have come in
+contact with him, admired both his shrewdness and ability. He always
+proved himself a good friend to the English mission, and later I got
+to know much more intimately his eldest son, H.H. Jalal-el-Dowleh,
+who was the able governor of Yezd, a city some three hundred miles
+eastward of Isphahan.
+
+Soon after reaching Julfa, I was sent for by the governor to
+examine his eyes. I found him in a garden outside the city, which
+he had just had constructed for a summer residence. He received me
+cordially, and, after the business part of the interview was over,
+chatted freely, telling me of all he had undergone at the hands of
+other physicians. A few years before, he had become alarmed about
+the state of his eyesight, and became possessed with the idea that
+he was gradually going blind. He believed himself to be suffering
+from a very hopeless eye disease, very prevalent in Persia, known as
+"black cataract" (glaucoma), and despite the assurance to the contrary
+given by Dr. Carr (the English doctor) and others, he persisted
+in sending for two eye specialists, one from Paris, the other from
+London. Both had thoroughly examined his sight, and had confirmed
+Dr. Carr's assurances that there was no disease, but his fears had
+put him to considerable expense, as both the specialists were treated
+right royally. Laughingly he told me how much he had dreaded the
+interview with the London specialist, and how the fateful day had
+at last come. The doctor had merely lightly placed his fingers on
+the eye, felt the tension, and then had smilingly assured His Royal
+Highness that there was no fear of glaucoma, a subsequent careful
+examination confirming this verdict. "And to think," pathetically
+added the governor, "that I had spent all those thousands of pounds
+for nothing!" Of course I at once suggested that to have had all his
+fears of blindness so happily set at rest more than compensated for
+any expense that he might have incurred, but he remained unconvinced.
+
+During the year we remained in Isphahan I had many opportunities of
+being received by the governor. He always treated me with the same
+kindness, and upon our departure for Kerman, presented me with a
+large signed photograph of himself.
+
+Isphahan is a great city that has passed through many vicissitudes:
+at one time it was the capital of Persia. Its population to-day is
+probably about 150,000. As in all Shiah (Mohammedan) lands, the priests
+(mullahs) possess great power. The Moslem archbishops are termed
+"mujtiheds." In each Persian city there are generally two mujtiheds,
+one official (Sheikh-es-Islam), the other elected by the people,
+and the latter, as a rule, possessed the greater influence.
+
+In 1900 the popular mujtihed was the eldest of three brothers, all
+mullahs. His power was very great--too great for the taste of the
+Shah, if one may credit rumour. Only a few days after our arrival,
+a carriage was sent for me, from the second brother of this mujtihed,
+who for many weeks had been anxiously looking forward to the arrival
+of an English "hakim," as he was suffering from a troublesome disease
+which might at any time develop serious symptoms. All these Isphahan
+mullahs had proved themselves hostile to the presence of foreigners,
+and on more than one occasion they had endeavoured, by preaching
+against them in the mosques, to inflame the populace and cause a riot.
+
+At the patient's house I was joined by another doctor (Dr. Aganoor),
+who was also the English Vice-Consul, and to whom we were indebted
+for many acts of kindness during our stay in Isphahan. The mullah was
+really his patient, and I was called in for consultation as to the
+advisability of operating. We were ushered into a large room with
+a fountain playing in the centre, and there we found the patient,
+supported by both his brothers, besides innumerable friends.
+
+We sat in solemn conclave for over an hour, discussing the pros
+and cons of the case, and then, having decided upon the course of
+treatment, we took our departure. Some days later we were again sent
+for, and found our patient in great pain, and the whole house crowded
+with his innumerable friends, who had hurriedly come together at the
+rumour of his approaching death.
+
+Our patient was in a very excited state, angrily refusing the
+consolation offered by his disciples and friends, and violently
+shouting, "A thousand tomans (£200) to any one who can take away this
+pain." Then, as he felt an extra bad twinge, "Ten thousand tomans to
+any one who will cure this pain" (about £2000).
+
+However, we soothed him, injected a little morphia, assured him
+there was no immediate danger, and as the sedative commenced to work,
+and the pain disappeared, with it went all thought of rewarding his
+benefactors: on the contrary, he took extra trouble to explain how poor
+a man he really was, and that it was due to the malice of his enemies
+that rumour reputed him wealthy. However, to cut a long story short,
+by means of a simple operation, and much patient care and attention
+on the part of Dr. Aganoor, he ultimately made a good recovery,
+and was really grateful, using his influence afterwards rather to
+restrain than augment the anti-European fanaticism of his other two
+brethren. Later a nephew of the chief mujtihed, himself a mullah,
+actually consented to come into hospital to undergo an urgently needed
+operation, and this proving successful, gained for us another staunch
+friend from priestly quarters, whose friendship stood us in good
+stead on another occasion which might have ended rather differently,
+but for his intervention. A few months had elapsed: rumours still
+reached us from the city of occasional attempts made to stir up the
+fanaticism of the people against us, the chief offender being the
+third and youngest brother of the mujtihed before mentioned.
+
+One day Dr. Aganoor and I were both sent for in a great hurry. We
+heard that the whole city was in an uproar, that this fanatical mullah
+had been poisoned, some said "by order of the Shah," others that the
+governor had asked him to a feast, and as he returned, ere reaching
+home, the symptoms had started; others that the women of his "anderoon"
+(quarter of the house in which no man but the husband may enter)
+had given him "oil of bitter almonds" by mistake. On approaching the
+house we found a crowd round the door, and the house itself packed
+with disciples and friends of the great man. We were hurriedly shown
+into a large hall, with marble pillars and floor, densely crowded
+with a mass of human beings, all engaged in watching the last gasps of
+the poor mullah, who was lying on a pile of carpets stretched on the
+marble floor. We learnt to our dismay that he had been unconscious
+for four hours, and apparently precautions had been taken that the
+English doctors should not be called in until that amount of time
+had elapsed. Before that intent, silent, fanatical crowd, we did
+all that could be done to save the life of the man who had been our
+bitter enemy, taking turns to perform artificial respiration, &c.,
+but all in vain, for, as in my turn I worked the dying man's arms,
+he took his last breath, and I whispered Dr. Aganoor that all was
+over. It was getting towards midnight. Julfa was three miles distant,
+and we were alone in the midst of that fanatical crowd. Well did my
+colleague know that once the intimation was given that the end had
+come, the scene would baffle description; the whole city would be
+roused, and our lives might even be in danger; knowing these things,
+he whispered me to go on performing artificial respiration while he
+got ready to go. So I went on with my task, working the dead man's
+arms until all was ready for our instant departure. Then reverently
+folding his hands on his breast, I drew over his face the coverlet,
+as an intimation that all was over. I never again wish to hear such
+a yell as then arose from the throats of that great throng. Doors
+were flung open, the mob from without rushed into the room,
+women poured in belonging to the dead man's household, shrieking,
+wailing, tearing their clothes and hair. Some of them made a wild
+rush at us as they passed, and it really looked a bit serious,
+for already amidst the uproar we could detect occasional cries of
+"The Feringhis have poisoned him." To my relief, amidst the excited
+throng I noticed the face of my old friend the mujtihed's nephew,
+who had been an in-patient in the hospital, and when he noticed that
+I had observed him, he beckoned us to follow him. We obeyed gladly,
+and he led us away by a private passage, which finally emerged into
+a public square a long distance from the dead man's house. There our
+good Samaritan left us, promising to send us our horses and servants,
+whom we had left waiting outside the patient's house. As we waited
+for them to come, we could hear the sound of cries from all parts
+of the city, followed by wailing of women, and the scurrying of many
+feet, as all flocked to the quarter where the holy man's body lay. At
+last our servants and animals arrived, and we made haste to escape,
+reaching home after midnight, thankful to God for preserving us from
+what might have proved a very dangerous position. Next day we heard
+that the whole city had gone into mourning; all the bazaars were shut,
+and the shops draped with black, and this mourning was kept up five
+whole days. Rumours were persistently circulated that the English
+doctors had poisoned the mullah, but no one really believed it, and
+I was able to attend the city dispensary as usual, even during the
+funeral ceremonies, and patients rather increased than diminished,
+some of the dead man's relatives even coming for treatment.
+
+So ended priestly opposition; the chief mujtihed himself was frightened
+at the mode of his brother's death, and kept very quiet, for fear,
+perhaps, that a similar accident might happen to him. His surviving
+brother and relatives were now quite friendly, and a few years later
+Dr. Carr was able to obtain ground and build an excellent hospital
+in Isphahan itself, welcomed alike by officials and priests. There is
+also an excellent Women's Hospital (C.M.S.), in charge of Dr. Emmeline
+Stuart, who has for many years given her life to work amongst Moslem
+women, and whose name is held dear by many a poor Persian village
+woman, who has found relief and loving care at her hands, and those
+of her staff.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+PIONEER MEDICAL MISSION WORK IN KERMAN [3]
+
+    Pioneer Medical Mission work in Kerman--Waiting for drugs
+    and instruments--Native assistant proves a broken reed--First
+    operation in Kerman--An anxious moment--Success--Doctrine of
+    "savab" convenient to the Moslem--Fanaticism tempered with
+    prudence--Opium slaves--Persian therapeutics--Persian quacks and
+    their methods--Sure way of curing cancer--Hysteria.
+
+
+                           "Charms for lovers, charms to break,
+                              Charms to bind them to you wholly,
+                            Medicines fit for every ache,
+                              Fever and fanciful melancholy."
+
+                                                             R. Bridges.
+
+
+We had been appointed to open a Medical Mission in this city, and as
+soon as our temporary residence in Isphahan was finished, proceeded
+to our original destination. We arrived at Kerman early in 1901, and
+received a hearty welcome from the only other European there--the
+Rev. A. R. Blackett, also of the Church Missionary Society. Two
+houses were secured, both outside the city wall; in one we took up
+our residence, while the other was made into a dispensary, and small
+temporary hospital. Unfortunately we arrived before our supply of
+drugs and surgical instruments, so we had to do our best with the
+very small stock of medicines borrowed from our stations in Isphahan
+and Yezd. However, patients began to come in large numbers, and the
+out-patient department was soon in full swing. We had brought with us
+from Isphahan two Armenians to act as assistants, one for dispensing,
+the other (a man who had been employed in the Mission for many years)
+to interpret and help generally in the work. I had hoped much from
+this last-named assistant, and had relied upon him greatly for advice
+and help, as he had been in Kerman before, and knew the people; but I
+soon found him a "broken reed." He was married and had a large family,
+which he had been obliged to leave behind in Isphahan, and very soon
+he began to show signs of home-sickness. Then he commenced to imagine
+himself ill, and developed symptoms of different ailments. In the
+first place he one day came to me with a woeful face, and besought me
+to carefully examine his chest, for he was convinced he was developing
+phthisis. After being reassured on this point, he became absolutely
+sure that he had heart disease; next his kidneys troubled him, and
+so on, until he became a confirmed hypochondriac, and completely
+useless for work. One day I remember his coming to me imploring
+that I would inject morphia to relieve him of the intense pain from
+which he was suffering. I gravely took the hypodermic syringe, and
+carefully injected distilled water, and the pain disappeared with
+lightning rapidity!
+
+However, I had to send him home, and I believe that, once safely
+reunited to his family, he at once lost all his symptoms, and was
+able to resume his old work at the hospital.
+
+In the meanwhile my surgical patients were clamouring for operations,
+more especially those afflicted with cataract. I had opened another
+dispensary in the city itself, and many poor blind people had come
+for treatment. It went to one's heart to have to send them away day
+after day with the same disheartening story. "The instruments have not
+yet come; until they arrive, nothing can be done." I fear that many
+commenced to think that the English doctor was a fraud, and that his
+excuses concerning the instruments resembled those framed by their
+own "hakims" to hide their own ignorance. At last the boxes actually
+arrived. They had to be brought by caravan from Bushire (the port in
+the Persian Gulf) to Kerman, viā Shiraz and Yezd, a distance of some
+eight hundred miles, taking a couple of months.
+
+We admitted our first in-patient, a well-known merchant in the city,
+who had been blind for three years with cataract. The Persian surgeons
+also operate for this disease, using the old Eastern operation known as
+"couching." An incision is made into the white of the eyeball (without
+any anęsthetic), then a thick, blunt probe is worked into the interior
+of the eye, directed so as to dislocate the lens. If successful, the
+lens drops back into the posterior chamber of the eye, and the patient
+"sees," but alas, the vision obtained is, in ninety-eight cases out
+of a hundred, only temporary! Twenty-four hours later, inflammation of
+the eye supervenes, and the sight is gone, and the eye lost. Needless
+to say, the operator obtains his fee either before the operation is
+done, or during the few hours that his patient is rejoicing in his
+newly found vision; then if he is wise he disappears from the town,
+and resumes his practice elsewhere. However, during eight years'
+practice in the East, and having had the opportunity of examining
+thousands of eyes, I can remember two cases only where this operation
+had been done and there had been no subsequent inflammation, but the
+great majority of eyes are lost.
+
+Well, we had our first Kerman cataract patient, and it seemed to
+us as though the whole future of the little pioneer Medical Mission
+depended upon the success or failure of that operation.
+
+The day fixed for the operation arrived: a Persian doctor practising
+in the city had requested leave to be present, no doubt on behalf of
+the many friends of the patient, to report particulars and see fair
+play. The patient was brought in, looking exceedingly nervous. After
+a short prayer (a practice almost invariably adopted in medical
+missionary hospitals, and much appreciated by the patient, even though
+he be a fanatical Moslem), the operation was started. I am afraid we
+were all unduly nervous, the possible consequences for good or ill to
+the Mission assuming undue proportions. At any rate everything went
+wrong; the cocaine (used as the anęsthetic) would not work, the old
+man could not keep his eye still, and would look up when he was told
+to look down. I was only able to complete the incision, and that with
+the greatest difficulty; and fearing to proceed further, the patient
+getting more and more excited, I had reluctantly to postpone the
+operation for a couple of days. We all felt very depressed, except,
+perhaps, the Persian "hakim," who doubtless greatly relished the
+failure of the English doctor. However, two days later we tried again,
+the Persian hakim once more being amongst the spectators. Much prayer
+had been offered up that this time there might be no hitch. Everything
+at first went well; the patient lay quite quietly, moved his eye
+exactly as he was told, the cocaine proved satisfactory, the incision
+was remade, and other preliminary steps in the operation disposed of:
+then came the hitch. In the European method of operating for cataract,
+the opaque lens is extruded from the eye by gentle pressure, through
+the incision first made. Well, when the time came for the lens to be
+extruded, it would not budge! I tried all possible means of extraction
+without success (afterwards I discovered that adhesions had formed
+between the lens and the curtain of the eye, as a result of the first
+operation). The perspiration ran down my face, as I realised what
+this second failure meant, not so much for my own reputation, but
+the hindrance it would prove to the success of the work I loved. I
+glanced at my wife: she was looking very anxious. I looked at my
+assistants: their faces were pictures of dismay. They had seen me
+before in Isphahan do many a cataract, and could not imagine what
+had gone wrong. The Persian doctor looked particularly happy: he
+smiled as he politely expressed his sorrow that I was experiencing
+any difficulty in bringing the operation to a successful issue. It
+certainly was an awkward fix--perhaps the most awkward that I have
+ever been in; but as I lifted up my heart in silent prayer to God,
+asking for guidance, the thought flashed into my mind, "The man has
+both eyes blind: you have failed with the one; do the other at once,
+and it will prove successful."
+
+Gently covering the eye that had proved a failure, I explained matters
+to the patient, obtained his permission, thoroughly cleansed his other
+eye, and proceeded to operate, meeting with no difficulty and easily
+extracting the lens, to the palpable disappointment of my Persian
+medical friend, and was overjoyed to find that the patient old man
+had obtained exceedingly good vision. After a week the patient went
+back to his friends, seeing well, and full of gratitude for all the
+kindness and care he had received. I saw him some months later, and
+inquired whether he cared to let me have another try at the eye that
+had proved unsuccessful; but he refused, saying he was an old man,
+and had obtained good sight with the one, and did not need to see
+with the other. Of course the result of this first operation had been
+anxiously awaited by many, and since it proved successful, we soon
+had our little temporary hospital full, and had no further trouble
+in getting in-patients. I have described this case rather fully,
+avoiding technical terms as far as possible, as it illustrates fairly
+well the difficulties and responsibilities met with and tackled by
+pioneer workers, be they missionary or official.
+
+The Persians (especially the Kermanis) have a great idea of doing
+"savabs" (good works), hoping to reap their reward hereafter. This is
+common to the West as well as the East; but the Kermanis in addition
+hold a convenient doctrine, namely, the appropriation of the savabs
+of infidels for themselves! At least one of the chief mullahs in
+Kerman surprised me somewhat by the cordial reception he accorded me;
+but later said, "How glad he was that I had come to Kerman and was
+doing such 'good works' amongst the sick and poor, as hereafter God
+would credit the true Moslems with all the savabs done by infidels,
+who of course could derive no benefit at all from their performance."
+
+As Kerman is a city proverbial amongst the Persians for its great
+wickedness, I could understand the old mullah's satisfaction, as
+doubtless he felt that many of their savab accounts were rather
+low and needed a trifle of "credit," which might with advantage be
+obtained from the savabs of an infidel doctor!
+
+Once yearly the Persians celebrate the death of the martyrs Hassain
+and Hussein, as has already been described in a previous chapter. We
+had a good opportunity of witnessing this Persian Passion Play
+while in Kerman. The sword-dancers, clad in white garments, work
+themselves up into a frenzy, gashing their heads with the swords
+and sometimes inflicting severe wounds. A true believer is supposed
+to have his self-inflicted wounds healed spontaneously through the
+agency of Hazrati Ali (grandson of the prophet Mohammed); but I was
+a little amused by the appearance of several of these devotees at
+my out-patient clinique some days previous to the "celebration,"
+all of them begging for a little English ointment to keep by them
+for use in case miraculous healing should be delayed.
+
+As has been already mentioned, the curse of Kerman is opium; everybody
+smokes or eats it--generally the former. The native doctors are partly
+responsible, as they recommend the drug as a "cure-all"; but even the
+cultured Kermani smokes opium, possibly to relieve the monotony of his
+life! Cases of poisoning repeatedly occur, and some of these we were
+called upon to treat. Our dispensary had a small garden attached to it,
+and when the Mission had gained the confidence of the people it was
+no uncommon sight to see several opium patients being treated at the
+same time in this garden. The treatment used, though somewhat vigorous,
+proved very effective. A man would arrive at the dispensary, escorted
+by an excited throng of relatives. On inquiry we would find that he
+had taken a big dose of opium to end his life: afterwards repenting,
+he had confessed to his relatives, and they had at once brought him
+to the English doctor. The treatment began with the administration of
+a strong emetic followed by repeated doses of strong coffee; then he
+would be handed over to the care of an attendant, with instructions to
+walk him round and round the garden and prevent his going to sleep. The
+native assistants and the patient's friends, armed with sticks, carried
+out these instructions, and at the first signs of languor exhibited
+by the unfortunate man he would be beaten and kept effectually awake!
+
+One day I was summoned in haste to the house of an influential Kermani;
+his only son, a child of two years, had been poisoned with opium. It
+is a common practice in Kerman for mothers to keep their babies from
+crying by giving them a little opium to suck. This boy's mother had
+given him a big lump by mistake, and grew alarmed when she found
+that all her attempts to wake him were ineffectual! On arriving
+at the house with my assistant, we had considerable difficulty in
+making our way into the courtyard, as it was thronged with all the
+relatives and friends; the neighbouring houses were crowded, a great
+multitude thronging the flat roofs, which commanded a good view of
+the courtyard belonging to the patient's father. On examining my
+little patient I found him nearly dead, exhibiting all the symptoms
+of an overdose of opium. However, for over an hour we worked away,
+washing out the child's stomach, injecting strong coffee, &c., all in
+the open air before the excited multitude, and gradually the little
+patient showed signs of recovery. When he had come completely round
+and was crying vigorously, there was great rejoicing. Thinking the
+opportunity too good a one to be lost, I asked my assistant to tell
+the father that God had heard prayer and restored him his child,
+and that we would now like him to join with us and thank God for
+answering our prayers, if he would tell the crowd what we intended
+doing. Although the father was a mullah, and had the reputation of
+being very fanatical in his hatred of Christians, he at once consented
+to our proposition, announcing to the crowd our intention. During
+the short thanksgiving prayer every head was bowed and not a sound
+of protest heard, while Christian and Moslem alike returned thanks
+to the great God who had heard and answered prayer. Medical Missions
+had once again won a triumph over Moslem fanaticism, and the scowls
+and threatening looks which had greeted our arrival were replaced by
+cordial thanks and vehement expressions of gratitude!
+
+Persian therapeutics are very simple, dating back to the time of
+Hippocrates. All diseases are divided into two classes--hot and
+cold--to be treated accordingly with hot or cold remedies. All foods
+are similarly classified. With this knowledge, plus a few Persian
+medical books and an appropriate turban, the native quack sets
+up as a doctor. His impudence and native wit are inexhaustible;
+he will cheer his patients with extracts from Hafiz or Ferdosi
+(the great Persian poets), talk learnedly of vapours, and have a
+specific for every mortal ailment. The quack physician is amusing,
+and probably confines himself to fairly harmless compounds; but the
+Persian surgeon is a man to be avoided at all costs. Of course, I
+am only here speaking of quacks; in Teheran there is a good medical
+school, and many of the graduates from that school proceed to Paris
+or Berlin, and return fully qualified to exercise their profession;
+but they also have to compete with these native quacks.
+
+I remember one case of a poor man brought to the dispensary with
+a big swelling on the left knee, which prevented his straightening
+the leg. Careful examination convinced me that the case was one of
+malignant cancer of the thigh bone, and that nothing could be done
+but amputation. This was explained to the patient and his father, who
+indignantly rejected the proposed operation. I lost sight of the man,
+but some weeks later one of my assistants asked me if I remembered
+the case; on my replying in the affirmative, he informed me that the
+patient had since died. It seems after leaving the dispensary the
+father had taken his son (a young man twenty years old) to a native
+surgeon (who combined the exercise of his profession most appropriately
+with the trade of a butcher) and asked his advice, saying the English
+doctor had advised amputation of the leg; but he had refused, as
+the swelling caused little pain, and all his son wanted was to be
+able to straighten his leg so that he might once again walk. "Oh,"
+replied the butcher, "that's easily done; that English doctor knows
+nothing; I will cure him." So he got the father and other men to hold
+the unfortunate youth firmly and some other helper to seize the leg;
+then seizing a huge slab of stone in both his hands, he brought it
+down with all his force on the bent knee. The leg was straightened
+... and needless to add, the poor patient only survived a few days.
+
+My wife has written quite sufficient about the Persian women to
+enable her readers to appreciate the monotony of their lives behind
+the veil. This is more especially true of the upper classes, who
+have no need to work for their living. In Kerman the usual result
+is that many of these poor women suffer from hysteria. I have often
+been called in to treat some of these patients, and have found them
+develop almost all the varying types of that curious disease; but
+one of the most interesting cases I ever remember occurred in Kerman.
+
+I had been treating the unmarried daughter of one of the wealthiest men
+in the city, and had prescribed for her some simple bismuth mixture,
+as she had complained of indigestion. Two days later her brother
+came galloping his horse to the dispensary, and demanded to see me
+immediately. He was greatly excited, and said that his sister had
+been taking the medicine I had prescribed for her and had suddenly
+gone blind. This was in the early days of the Medical Mission, and
+I was especially anxious to win the confidence of the people, so did
+not at all appreciate this complication. I assured the brother that
+I would return with him at once, and informed him that the medicine
+could not possibly have caused the blindness; but he was not at all
+appeased. Upon reaching the house I found all the family distracted
+with grief, and not at all inclined to be cordial. Moreover, they
+had called in a native eye-doctor, who had gravely announced that
+the blindness was most certainly due to the patient having taken
+the infidel's medicine! In order to reassure the parents I bade them
+bring the bottle of medicine, and, finding there were still two or
+three doses left, called for a glass, poured out the remainder, and
+drank it. This seemed to reassure them partially, so they allowed me
+to examine the girl. She was a nervous, highly-strung patient, and I
+had expected to find that she had been malingering; but to my surprise,
+upon thorough examination I convinced myself that she had really gone
+blind. Examination of the interior of the eyes showed no disease,
+and upon inquiry, finding that she was the subject of periodical
+hysterical attacks, I ventured to predict to the parents that with
+suitable care and supervision the girl would regain her sight. They
+were still inclined to be sceptical, but ten days later I heard that
+my prediction had come true and that she was quite cured. Similar cases
+of hysterical loss of vision are on record, but are exceedingly rare.
+
+Barely had we managed to get the little Medical Mission well started
+when circumstances connected with my wife's health arose that
+forced us to leave at a moment's notice the people we had learnt to
+love. Fortunately the work was not given up; another doctor succeeded
+me, and now there is a flourishing Medical Mission with two hospitals,
+one for men and the other for women patients, with a lady doctor and
+nurse; while the influence exerted by that Mission is felt throughout
+the whole of the great Kerman province, which stretches eastwards
+to the border of Beloochistan, and is bounded on the south by the
+Persian Gulf.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+MEDICAL MISSION WORK IN YEZD [4]
+
+    A hospital--A friendly governor--A suspicious
+    case--Superstition--The opium habit--A case of cataract--We return
+    to England.
+
+
+                   "By medicine life may be prolonged....
+                    With the help of a surgeon he may yet recover."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+The last of our three years' sojourn in Persia was spent in Yezd. Here
+there was already a small Mission Hospital, all the pioneer work having
+been done by Dr. White of the C.M.S. A wealthy Parsee merchant had
+presented the site for a hospital in the form of an old caravanserai
+(an Eastern inn). This had been gutted and made into a nice little
+hospital, with an out-patient department. Dr. White being on furlough,
+the doctor taking his place in Yezd exchanged with me, as it was
+hoped that my wife would be able better to stand the lower altitude
+of Yezd than the heights of Kerman. Yezd is an island city in a sea
+of sand. The waves, driven by the winds, surge against the city walls
+and threaten to engulf the whole place. At some parts of the wall,
+the drifted sand reaches almost to the level of the wall itself.
+
+The Governor of Yezd during the time we lived there was
+H.R.H. Jalal-el-Dowleh, the eldest son of the Prince-Governor of
+Isphahan (the Zil-es-Sultan). The Jalal-el-Dowleh had the reputation,
+like his father, of being a strong man, and ruled with a firm hand. He
+had already proved a good friend to the Mission, and was accustomed
+to pay a state visit once yearly to the hospital, where, after being
+entertained at the doctor's house, he would proceed to make a very
+thorough tour of inspection, and before leaving would hand the English
+doctor a sealed envelope containing the munificent sum of £40 as a
+donation. During our stay in Yezd we saw a good deal of the governor,
+and I had to add to my duties those of court physician.
+
+In Yezd, as in other Persian cities, there are many quacks, who not
+unnaturally resent the presence of a European doctor. I had not been
+long in the city before I made the acquaintance of some of these
+gentry, in a somewhat dramatic manner.
+
+Early one morning I was hurriedly called to the house of the chief
+native doctor, as his brother had been taken seriously ill.
+
+On entering the patient's room, I found it crowded with his friends,
+the patient himself lying upon a mattress placed on the ground. One
+glance at the patient sufficed: he was dead, and had apparently been
+so for some hours. When I announced the fact to the brother, he became
+very angry, and assured me that I was mistaken. He begged me to pour
+some medicine down the man's throat, or to do something to rouse him,
+as he had only fainted!
+
+Upon further inquiry, I found that he had been poorly for some days,
+and his brother had been treating him. My suspicions were aroused, as
+the brother and his friends crowded round me, imploring that English
+medicines should be tried, and after further careful examination only
+served to confirm my first opinion, I refused absolutely to comply with
+their entreaties, and left the house with my assistant. The brother and
+some of his friends pursued us, offering large fees if only we would
+give some medicine, absolutely refusing to accept my verdict. It is a
+necessary custom in Persia and the East generally, to bury a dead body
+within a few hours of death, but we heard that the brother refused to
+allow this corpse to be buried for three whole days, alleging that the
+English doctor was mistaken: however, in the end they were obliged to
+bury him. The native doctor was strongly suspected of having poisoned
+his brother, and this doubtless accounted for the urgent manner in
+which he begged me to pour something down the dead man's throat,
+so that he could accuse me of being responsible for his death.
+
+All Persians are superstitious, and are great believers in goblins
+and 'jinns.' One day a young man was brought to me suffering from
+an acute attack of chorea (St. Vitus' dance). He was well educated,
+and had been employed as a clerk in a merchant's office: now he was
+unable to hold a pen in his hand, and exhibited all the symptoms
+of the disease in a very marked degree. He was promptly admitted to
+hospital, and discharged cured in a few weeks. According to his own
+statement the cause of the attack was as follows. He had gone for a
+walk in the desert outside the city after his day's work was over,
+and had wandered on further than usual. Suddenly he came across an old
+well, and round the well were numbers of hideous dwarf-like goblins
+pelting each other with stones. When they saw him they crowded round
+laughing, jeering, pulling his clothes, and then began to pelt him
+with stones. He turned and fled, running the whole way back to the
+city, and to this shock he attributed the commencement of his symptoms.
+
+In my last chapter I referred to the prevalence of the opium habit in
+Kerman, but we found many addicted to it also in Yezd. So much was
+this the case, that I started admitting some of those who expressed
+a desire to give up the habit into the hospital, submitting them to
+a special treatment, with very good results. It was a curious sight
+to see these patients grouped together in the ward, smoking their
+carefully weighed out amount of opium, which was gradually reduced
+day by day, until they could go without altogether.
+
+The opium habit is in truth a curse, but upon one occasion I really
+believe it greatly helped to save a man's life. It happened in this
+way. A well-known merchant in Yezd was found in his house apparently
+sleeping. His women-folk, unable to rouse him, became alarmed, and sent
+for me. I found the patient unconscious, exhibiting every symptom
+of belladonna poisoning. An excited crowd, as usual, collected,
+watching us as we tried every possible means of saving the poor
+fellow's life. Strychnine and morphia had been injected, cold water
+poured on his face, all without avail: there was no sign of returning
+consciousness. A happy thought struck me. Turning to some of the men
+in the crowd, I asked whether they were opium-smokers. Three or four
+somewhat shamefacedly acknowledged that they did a little, so I ordered
+them to bring a pipe and a little of the drug. Then I made them sit
+round the patient's body, take the pipe in turn, and as they smoked,
+puff out the smoke into the patient's face, occasionally blowing
+it into his nostrils, and down his throat. I confess that I had but
+little hope of any good result, but what was my delight and surprise,
+after about a quarter of an hour's perseverance in the treatment, to
+see unmistakable signs of recovery in the patient's face. His widely
+dilated pupils began to contract, and soon he returned to consciousness
+and was able to sit up. On the following day I found him quite well,
+and thoroughly enjoying the sensation that his marvellous recovery
+had made in the city. Hundreds of people had been to see him, and
+I am a little afraid that the value of the opium as a "cure-all"
+was not diminished by the incident!
+
+We had quite a number of cataract patients in the hospital, many
+coming several days' journey for operation. A small hospital for women
+had been started, and a lady doctor had been sent to take charge. The
+first case admitted was an old lady with cataract. When the day arrived
+for the operation, everything went well at first, but in the middle
+of the operation the patient started up screaming. She said she had
+seen a snake, and she thought it was going to bite her. Her vision
+cost her dearly, the operation necessarily being spoilt, and the eye
+lost, but unfortunately it also kept away other patients suffering
+from the same disease, but only for a short time, the lady doctor
+soon winning their confidence, and finding more work on her hands
+than she could comfortably get through.
+
+After a very happy year in Yezd, my wife's health still remaining
+unsatisfactory, we were obliged to leave Persia, and return to England
+for a short rest. Both of us were grieved at having to leave a country
+and people that we had learnt to love, and amongst whom we had hoped
+to spend our lives.
+
+Medical Missions in Persia have already worked wonders, breaking down
+opposition, winning friends even amongst the most fanatical. Here is
+not the place to speak of results, neither would it be wise to do so,
+but I would like once for all definitely and decisively to repudiate
+the oft-quoted statement, often made, unfortunately, by Christians
+who should be better informed, "that it is impossible for a Mohammedan
+to become a Christian." With God all things are possible!
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+PART II
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE CITY OF NINEVEH
+
+    The city of Nineveh--The fast of Jonah--The bridge of
+    boats--Traditions as to ancient history of Mosul--Alkosh,
+    birthplace of Nahum the prophet--Shurgāt--Climate of
+    Mosul--Cultivation and industries--Importance of Mosul.
+
+
+           "A ruin, yet what ruin! from its mass
+            Walls, palaces, half cities have been reared.
+            Heroes have trod this spot--'tis on their dust ye tread."
+
+                                                                  Byron.
+
+              "Nineveh, an exceeding great city of three days' journey."
+
+
+The ancient city of Nineveh, the former capital of the Assyrian Empire,
+is situated on the eastern bank of the river Tigris. Little is to be
+seen to-day of the once famous city but huge mounds of earth which
+cover the site of this historical and interesting place. There are two
+principal mounds, separated from each other by a small rivulet. The
+larger of these is called Kouyunjik, the smaller Nabbi Eunice. The
+former contains the ruins of the palace of Sennacherib, before whom
+Jonah stood and delivered his message; but nothing now remains to
+tell of its former glory and wealth. When we first visited the spot
+over three years ago, there was one huge man-headed lion remaining,
+and a few pieces of sculpture representing fish swimming in water,
+&c. But now even these have disappeared, for about eighteen months ago
+the Turkish Government sold all the visible remains of Nineveh for the
+enormous sum of two Turkish liras (36s.)! the buyer grinding everything
+to powder, including the huge statue, for purposes of building!
+
+Nineveh is best seen to-day at the British Museum or the Louvre, Paris,
+as both of these places contain many interesting and valuable remains
+of that city. Nineveh was closed to excavators about four years ago,
+but it is hoped that investigations will be renewed again in the
+near future, as there still remain thirteen rooms of the palace to
+be examined.
+
+The other and smaller mound, known as Nabbi Eunice (Prophet Jonah),
+was once the site of a church named after the prophet, on account of
+the tradition that he preached upon that spot. The church stands to
+this day, but is used as a mosque, as it now belongs to the Moslems,
+who venerate the place as being the tomb of the prophet.
+
+They accept the whole story of Jonah's mission to Nineveh and
+the adventures he encountered en route, as we have it recorded in
+Holy Scripture. It is an interesting fact, too, that year by year
+the inhabitants of Mosul, Christians and Moslems alike, keep in
+remembrance the three days of fasting and repentance mentioned in
+the Book of Jonah. The fast is still kept for three days, by some
+very strictly, while others keep it from sunset to sunset, only
+eating once a day. Every one may please herself as to the severity
+of her fasting, but almost all join in the remembrance of those three
+memorable days in the history of Nineveh. "Herself" is used advisedly,
+as it is especially kept by women who are seeking some particular gift
+from God, and they will often fast absolutely for the three days,
+not even allowing a drop of water to touch their lips. They hope by
+so doing that God will hear their prayers, even as He answered the
+petitions of the Ninevites of old. The memory of Jonah is perpetuated,
+too, in Mosul by parents naming their boys after the prophet, Eunice
+being quite a favourite name amongst Christians, Moslems, and Jews.
+
+The tomb of Jonah is guarded very zealously by the Mohammedans
+against the Christians, and it is very difficult for the latter to
+gain admission to the interior of the building. A friend staying
+with us in Mosul was very anxious to see the tomb, so we rode over
+to Nabbi Eunice one day, but the mullah in charge politely but firmly
+refused us permission to enter beyond the portal!
+
+Kouyunjik is now a favourite place for picnics from Mosul, and in
+the early spring a day spent amongst the old ruins of Nineveh is
+very delightful. It is too hot in summer, as there is no shade. From
+the top of the mounds we have a beautiful view of Mosul, with the
+Tigris in the foreground and the mountains stretching away on either
+side. It is not considered safe for any one to wander about alone on
+the mounds; the natives will never go there alone after dusk. Some
+years ago two Europeans who were passing through Mosul visited Nineveh
+by themselves. As they were rambling over the old remains, one said
+to his companion, "I am going round there," indicating a projecting
+piece of marble. His companion waited and waited, and as his friend
+did not return went in search of him, but not a sign of him could
+be seen. After seeking in every possible place without success, he
+returned to Mosul to institute a search party, but all efforts proved
+fruitless, and to this day nothing has been discovered as to the fate
+of this man. Whether he fell down some disused shaft or was carried
+off by Arabs is not known, and probably will always remain a mystery.
+
+Mosul is connected with Nineveh by an old bridge of boats, which
+probably existed in the days of Jonah. There are twenty-one or
+twenty-two of these old-fashioned flat-bottomed boats, fastened
+together by heavy chains, a platform of wood being laid from boat
+to boat and the whole covered with earth. This part of the bridge is
+movable, and is connected at one end with the mainland by a permanent
+stone bridge consisting of thirty-three arches. In the spring, when
+the rush of water is very strong consequent upon the snow melting in
+the mountains, it is loosened at one end and allowed to swing with
+the current. Sometimes, however, the river rises suddenly, carrying
+the bridge away and playing havoc with the banks. When this takes
+place it is very difficult to replace the bridge. Often for weeks
+together the bridge is not open, and all traffic across the river has
+to be conveyed by boats, the owner of the ferries reaping a golden
+harvest. The toll of the bridge is taken by a man who rents it from
+the Government. He is said to be one of the richest men in Mosul. Foot
+passengers are allowed to pass freely, but all four-footed beasts have
+a small charge levied on them ranging from a halfpenny to twopence,
+and carriages are charged half a mejideh (1s. 8d.). As some thousands
+of camels, mules, and donkeys are continually passing to and fro,
+it is no wonder that the toll-collector is a rich man.
+
+I am not at all fond of riding across this bridge; it is not very
+wide, and camels jostle you on one side with their huge burdens,
+donkeys and mules vie with each other in trying to pass on the other,
+quite oblivious of the fact that there is no room; while underneath
+the river rushes madly on. Altogether, I always heave a sigh of relief
+when the opposite bank is safely reached.
+
+There are many traditions as to the probable origin of Mosul, but
+its true early history is involved in obscurity. The following has
+been gleaned from some of the many traditions circulated amongst
+its inhabitants.
+
+Mosul is said to have been built some four thousand years ago,
+and was then a small village consisting of a few houses built of
+mud. This village was believed to be the fourth village built after the
+Flood. About four days' journey from Mosul there is a mountain called
+Judy, on which the ark is supposed to have rested after the Flood. The
+natives living near this mountain say it must be Mount Ararat, because
+close by grows the only olive tree for miles around! and also they have
+in their possession enormous wooden nails said to have been used in the
+construction of the ark! These nails were found on the mountain many
+years ago. At the foot of this mountain lies a village which claims to
+have the honour of being the first built after the Flood. Quite near
+by is another small town called Jezirah, which is said to have been
+the second village to spring into existence, while some village in
+Egypt takes the third place, and Mosul the fourth! If these traditions
+are to be trusted, then Mosul has indeed a right to be termed ancient.
+
+Some 1260 years ago Omar el Khattab the Calipha conquered Jerusalem
+and Damascus, and then turned his attention to Mosul. He sent down
+one of his chiefs named Eyath, son of Ghoonum, to besiege Mosul,
+with orders to convert the city to Mohammedanism at all costs, if
+necessary at the point of the sword. Many of the inhabitants at that
+time were Parsees, belonging to the old fire-worshipping religion;
+others were called "Charamika," but no trace of their belief has been
+found. These and many others were converted to Mohammedanism by the
+strong argument of the sword.
+
+In the twelfth century Mosul had a sovereignty of its own, a brother
+of the Sultan of Damascus then reigning over this province. In 1180
+it withstood the armies of the famous Saladin, who was a native
+of a town some five days' ride from Mosul. In the thirteenth and
+fourteenth centuries it suffered defeat from the hands of its
+enemies, and in 1743 Nadir Shah of Persia bombarded the town for
+forty days. Since then Mosul has suffered much from time to time
+through various causes--from the cruelties of some of its governors,
+from a famine caused by the crops being utterly destroyed by locusts,
+and also from the plague which visited it in 1831 and left the town
+almost a desert. It is stated that 100,000 people perished at that
+time from this terrible scourge.
+
+The walls surrounding Mosul are very old. They were built, in the
+first instance, about 2000 years ago by a man named Marvan, one of
+the kings of a tribe called "Umayya." They were repaired 170 years
+ago by Hadji Hussein Pasha, one of the Abdul Jaleel family. They are
+now in many places fast falling into ruin, and are in great need of
+restoration. These walls are pierced by about twelve gates, which
+are shut at sunset or soon after.
+
+About five hours' journey from Mosul is the little village of Elkosh,
+believed by many to have been the birthplace of the prophet Nahum,
+and also the scene of his life-work and burial. This village, now
+inhabited by Chaldeans, is reverenced by Moslems and Christians
+alike, but more especially is it looked upon as a holy place by
+the Jews. There is a synagogue in which is supposed to lie the tomb
+of the prophet; to this the Jews flock for the yearly pilgrimage,
+having done so from time immemorial.
+
+Kalah Shurgāt is another interesting place, situated two days' journey
+from Mosul. It consists of an old Assyrian ruin, said to be the remains
+of the ancient city of Asshur. The Germans have been excavating there
+for some years, and are doing it very thoroughly. The whole ground
+floor of the palace and temple are laid bare, and are in a wonderful
+state of preservation. One of the excavators pointed out to us the
+"bathroom" of the palace, running through which was a mono-rail,
+evidently having been constructed for the purpose of conveying water
+from the reservoir to the bath. This tram-line must have been one
+of the first ever invented! It was simply a groove cut in the marble
+floor, on which probably a one-wheeled trolley ran.
+
+The climate of Mosul is a very variable one, the summers being
+excessively hot and the winters cold.
+
+During the hot months all the inhabitants sleep at night on their
+roofs, starting about the 1st of June, and continuing to do so for
+five months, or till the first rains come. Many of the houses are
+provided with "sirdābs" or underground rooms, for use during the
+middle part of the day. The marble from which most of the houses
+are built retains the heat of the sun so long that they do not cool
+down in the evenings; on account of this, as the summer wears on,
+the houses become almost unbearable with accumulated heat. For this
+reason we generally try to go away somewhere for a month's holiday in
+August or September. There are no cool places near Mosul, and to find
+a suitable summer retreat it is necessary to go three or four days'
+journey. For two years we only went to a large house about three miles
+from Mosul, kindly lent us by a patient of my husband's. Here the
+heat was intense during the day, but the evenings were delightfully
+cool as a rule, for the river ran at the foot of the garden.
+
+The winters in Mosul are often very cold. Two years ago the Tigris was
+nearly frozen over, and for three days the only water we could obtain
+was from melted snow. The cold was so severe that men died as they
+sat at their work. While such cold weather lasted it was impossible to
+keep the patients in the hospital, as having no stoves in the wards we
+were not able to warm them sufficiently. But this was a record winter,
+there having been no such frost for one hundred and fifty years.
+
+Spring and autumn are beautiful seasons in Mosul, especially,
+perhaps, the former. During March, April, and part of May the land
+for many miles around Mosul is green with waving corn--a refreshing
+sight for weary eyes. When the grass is about a foot in height, all
+the inhabitants pitch tents outside the town and spend their days
+there. Those who have horses tether them in front of their tents, and
+allow them to eat grass to their hearts' content. A friend lent us a
+tent last year, and for a month or six weeks we enjoyed the luxury of
+green scenery! Every day some of our congregation were able to get out,
+each of us taking our turn at providing afternoon tea. It was such
+a relief to get away from the heat of the city walls, and to enjoy,
+if only for a short time, the lovely fresh air of the corn-fields!
+
+The autumn days are very pleasant too, but as a rule this season is
+only too short. The summers last till the rains begin, and then almost
+at once cold weather sets in. The most trying part of the whole year
+comes towards the end of summer, when the clouds "come up." It is
+very marvellous the way the natives can tell, almost to a day, when to
+expect the first clouds. They generally last from ten to twelve days,
+and the relief is great when they depart. On the whole the climate
+of Mosul seems to be a healthy one. At certain times of the year
+malarial fever is very prevalent, but, "alhamd'llillah!" neither of
+us have ever contracted it.
+
+The highest degree of heat registered in the coolest part of our house
+is 110°, but the average heat of the three hottest months is about 98°
+to 105°.
+
+Three to four months of this kind of heat is generally quite enough!
+
+The land round Mosul is cultivated to a great extent, corn being
+the chief product. The success of the crops, however, is entirely
+dependent upon the winter and spring rains. Should the rainfall
+be great, the harvest is abundant; but if the season is a dry one,
+then the result is disastrous. Mr. Layard speaks of one such occasion
+when, during the whole of the winter and spring, no rain fell. As a
+consequence of this, the crop failed and famine ravaged the land. This
+famine is still spoken of in Mosul as something never to be forgotten,
+and many events are marked as dating from "the famine." Some are not
+ashamed to own that they made their fortunes during that awful time,
+by storing corn and then selling it at famine prices; while others,
+who had been prosperous merchants till that year, were then rendered
+penniless, and have never been able to retrieve their fortunes. There
+are a few rude wheels constructed along the banks of the Tigris for
+the purpose of irrigation; but as these are highly taxed by the local
+government, they are by no means general. This mode of raising water
+is very simple but expensive, as it requires the labour of several
+men and at least two animals, either oxen or mules.
+
+Gardens near the town are irrigated in this way, either by drawing
+water from the river or from deep wells, but the great stretch of
+land sown with corn is dependent for its nourishment on the rainfall.
+
+Cotton is also grown and exported. Melons, cucumbers, and tomatoes
+are cultivated very largely, and as the river recedes in the summer,
+the moist bed is sown with water-melon seeds, which flourish splendidly
+in the damp soil.
+
+Fruit is largely grown in the mountains, and brought down on
+donkeys. Apricots are very abundant; cherries, plums, peaches are
+less plentiful. The best apples are brought from Damascus; they look
+good, but are flavourless. Grapes are very largely cultivated, and are
+brought to great perfection. The large black kind are very delicious;
+there is also a white grape which has a very sweet flavour. Vegetables
+of all kinds are grown in the gardens near Mosul: beans, peas, spinach,
+carrots (red), beetroot, onions, artichokes, as well as many other
+varieties. Potatoes are brought from Persia, and sometimes suffer
+so much from the long journey that they are only fit to be thrown
+away when they reach Mosul. Last winter several hundreds of sacks
+of potatoes were thrown into the river at Mosul, as they had been
+frostbitten on the journey from Persia, and so were useless.
+
+"Manna" is found in the mountains, and is collected and sent to Mosul,
+where it is made into a sweetmeat called "halawwi."
+
+The industries of Mosul are chiefly spinning and weaving. A very strong
+kind of cotton cloth is woven, also calico and woollen goods. Many
+years ago this industry was much larger than it is at present, and
+in those days Mosul gave its name to muslin, a fabric exported by
+the French from that town in the last century. Weaving is done by
+men, while the women do the spinning and dyeing of the cotton or
+wool. Weaving is a very favourite occupation, as the weaver can do
+just as much or as little as he likes, being paid accordingly. For
+this reason a man who is inclined to be lazy would much rather be a
+weaver than a servant.
+
+Furs are largely exported from Mosul. The skin of the fox is most
+common, but there is another fur much resembling the sable which
+is highly prized amongst the natives, a coat lined with this fur
+costing something like £50. Some years ago furs could be bought
+quite cheaply in Mosul, but the merchants finding a good market for
+their goods in Europe, the prices soon went up, and now even fox is
+becoming expensive.
+
+The industries of Mosul are not what they were, but we trust better
+days are coming, when the old prosperity of the town will be renewed
+and increased.
+
+The three great questions now under consideration with regard to
+the land of Mesopotamia will have great influence on the future
+of Mosul. The first is the navigation of the Tigris from Baghdad to
+Mosul. This, when an accomplished fact, will make a great difference in
+the export and import trade of the city. The Baghdad railway will also
+greatly increase the importance of Mosul, for the line running through
+it will bring the East in close touch with the near West. Perhaps the
+most important subject of all in connection with the future of Mosul
+is that of the irrigation of Mesopotamia, which, once accomplished,
+will turn the whole of that vast desert into a garden. The means to
+be employed for this end are simply the reviving of the old Assyrian
+method of irrigation. This method consisted in the digging of canals
+to intersect the land between the rivers Tigris and Euphrates. Maps
+of these same canals are still to be seen in the British Museum
+and other places, and are of great interest. These great canals,
+made in the prosperous days of the Assyrian Empire, are now choked
+up, after having been in use for many centuries by the inhabitants
+of the country. Layard, in his "Discoveries at Nineveh," says,
+"Herodotus describes the extreme fertility of Assyria and its abundant
+harvests of corn, the seed producing two and three hundred-fold";
+and adds later, "But in his day the Assyrians depended as much upon
+artificial irrigation as upon the winter rains. They were skilful
+in constructing machines for raising water, and their system of
+canals was as remarkable for its ingenuity as for the knowledge of
+hydraulics it displayed." Since the result of irrigation in those
+ancient days was two to three hundred-fold, surely if carried out
+to-day with the additional knowledge of modern science and experience
+the ground would yield an even larger return. It has been estimated
+that £8,000,000 would be sufficient to reopen all the old canals of
+Mesopotamia, with the certainty that the land thus irrigated would
+yield an abundant profit.
+
+"Ensha'allah," this much-talked-of scheme will soon be carried out,
+and Mesopotamia become once more "a land of corn and wine, a land of
+bread and vineyards, a land of olive oil and of honey."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE PEOPLE OF MOSUL
+
+    Population--Moslems--Christians--Chaldeans--Nestorians--Jacobites
+    --Arabs--Kurds--Jews--Yezidees--Recreations--Warfare of the
+    slingers--Hammam Ali--The recreation ground of Mosul men and women.
+
+
+                                    "... The world is great,
+                    But each has but his own land in the world."
+
+                                                        A. C. Swinburne.
+
+
+The population of Mosul has been estimated to be anything between
+sixty and eighty thousand people. If the whole "vilayet" is included
+the number will be something like a million and a half. These people
+are made up of many different nationalities and tribes, each retaining
+its own leading characteristics, whilst many have a language peculiar
+to themselves.
+
+The inhabitants of Mosul are chiefly Arabs, of whom by far the larger
+part are Mohammedans. These of course form the strong religious element
+in the city, as they are the conquerors of the land. This is a fact,
+too, which they take care never to lose sight of. In the market, the
+mosque, and the street, the Mohammedan is always proclaiming by look,
+word, and deed that he is the master. A Christian finds himself at
+a great disadvantage in the market, for when buying from a Moslem he
+is not allowed to handle the food, and must purchase his goods to a
+great extent on trust.
+
+In all mosques, which once were Christian churches, it is customary
+for the mullah to preach with a naked sword in his hand. This is
+done in order to remind the people that the Mohammedan religion was
+propagated by the sword, and must, if necessary, be retained by the
+same means. In the streets the difference is very marked between the
+two, the Mohammedan behaving as if the whole place belonged to him,
+while the Christians, and more especially the Jews, always appear as
+if they were apologising for their very existence.
+
+The Moslems are the rulers, and they make their power felt. An amusing
+instance illustrating this feeling occurred a short time ago. A little
+Moslem boy was walking through the street on his way to our house when,
+apparently without any provocation, a Christian girl began to revile
+him as he passed. The boy instantly turned on the girl and gave her a
+thrashing. I did not hear anything of this for some days, and then only
+in an indirect way. Some one told me that the boy had received a severe
+beating from the master of the school which he was attending, and on
+asking the reason of the punishment was told the foregoing story. I
+am very fond of the boy, he is such a dear, bright little chap, with
+great wondering eyes. Upon hearing the history of his encounter with
+the girl, I sent for the boy, and tried to tell him how wrong it was
+for a man to strike a woman. "But," said the boy, quite innocently,
+"she was a Christian!" Thus early in life is instilled into the young
+mind of the Moslem his inherent right to act the tyrant.
+
+On the other hand, it is a strange truth that Moslems very often prefer
+to have Christian servants in their houses, as they find they are more
+faithful. In many hareems the "slaves," or girls who have been bought
+for life, are very often children of Christian parents, who have been
+willing for a few pounds to sell their girls. The reverse of this is
+also true, that Christian families often find that a Moslem servant
+is more trustworthy than one of their own religion. A few months
+ago I heard of a little black boy in Mosul, whose mother, a Moslem
+negress, was anxious to find him a home. We offered to take the boy and
+bring him up, but the mother absolutely refused our offer, as we were
+Christians, and she was afraid her boy might become the same, as he was
+then only one year old, and had not yet learnt to hate the Christians!
+
+There are some 15,000 to 20,000 Christians in Mosul, who are said
+to date their conversion back to the time of St. Adday, who was a
+disciple of St. Thomas; others migrated from Baghdad to Mosul at
+the time of the Caliphas. These Christians have remained firm to the
+religion of their forefathers in spite of much persecution and many
+trials. To-day in Mosul there are many different sects of Christians
+to be found, viz. the Chaldean, Syrian, Nestorian, Jacobite, Armenian,
+and Greek. The Chaldeans in Mosul now entirely belong to the Romish
+Church, having been admitted to that body about a hundred years ago by
+means of the Dominican Mission who started work amongst these ancient
+Christians. They have their own bishop and archbishop, the Patriarch
+making Mosul his headquarters since 1256.
+
+The Nestorians are the true Chaldeans, and repudiate the name
+Nestorian. They live amongst the mountains, have resisted all
+efforts of the Romish Church, and remain true to the faith of
+their fathers. They, in common with the other Christians, date
+their Christianity from the time of the Apostles as the converts
+of St. Thomas. They refuse to accept Nestorius, the Patriarch
+of Constantinople, as their founder, saying that he was a Greek,
+while they were Syrians. They assert that "he did not even know our
+language, and so how could he have propagated his doctrines among
+us?" and they also declare that their religion was an established
+fact long before Nestorius was born. They have their own Patriarch,
+who resides near Van, a distance of ten days from Mosul. They regard
+the Pope and his followers with feelings of great hatred, and are said
+to curse him and his forefathers regularly every day. In answer to a
+message from the Pope urging reconciliation with Rome, the Patriarch
+sent the following answer: "I shall never become a Roman Catholic,
+and should you ever induce my people to do so, I would sooner become a
+dervish or a mullah than degrade myself by an alliance with the Pope."
+
+The Patriarch of the Nestorians is not allowed to marry; he is also
+compelled to be a strict vegetarian. When it is thought advisable
+to nominate a successor to the archbishopric, the wife of a near
+relative (if possible, a brother) of the then Patriarch is chosen
+as the possible mother of the future dignitary. She is set apart as
+holy till the birth of her child, her diet meanwhile being strictly
+vegetarian. If the child proves to be a boy, he is solemnly dedicated
+to God from his birth, and is never allowed to touch meat or flesh
+of any kind. Should the child unfortunately be a girl, the choice
+has to be made again, and great is the disappointment of the mother,
+the honour of being the mother of a Patriarch being much coveted
+and prized.
+
+In 1843 these people suffered a terrible massacre at the hands of
+the Kurds; 10,000 of them are said to have perished, and after being
+hunted from place to place the Patriarch finally fled for refuge to
+the English Consulate at Mosul.
+
+The Jacobite section of the Christian Church in Mosul is a small one,
+and so far remains firm to its old faith, resisting all attempts by the
+Church of Rome to effect a union. It, too, has its own bishop in Mosul,
+but the Patriarch resides in Mardin, where he has many thousands of
+adherents. He pays periodical visits to his scattered flock in Mosul
+and the surrounding country. They trace the origin of their name to one
+Jacob Baradęus, a Reformer who arose in the sixth century, and refusing
+to follow the lead of the other Syrians in joining the Romish Church,
+continued in the old faith, which has since been called by his name
+(an alternative name being the Old Syrian Church).
+
+The population of Mosul also consists of Arabs, Kurds, Yezidees,
+and Jews.
+
+The Arabs are the original inhabitants of the desert, who date their
+descent back to the time of Shem, the son of Noah. They are divided
+into many tribes, of which the most important in Mesopotamia is that
+of the great Shammar clan, who are to be found in all parts. There
+are three classes of Arabs, namely, those who have settled down in
+one place and become town Arabs, such as the inhabitants of Mosul:
+the wandering tribes of the desert or Bedouins, who live in tents
+and whose occupation is sheep farming: a third class of Arabs are
+the robbers of the desert, who subsist solely by plunder, and roam
+the desert seeking for a livelihood by any means that may come to
+their hand. The wandering tribes find it very hard to settle down
+to a fixed abode after the free life of the desert, and they prefer
+often to suffer pain and inconvenience rather than spend a few days
+or weeks beneath a roof and within the walls of a hospital.
+
+A story is told of a Bedouin lady of the seventh century, whose husband
+rose afterwards to be one of the Caliphs. When taken to Damascus to
+live in luxury and state, she pined for the freedom of the desert,
+and gave utterance to her loneliness in the following verses:--
+
+
+           "A tent with rustling breezes cool
+              Delights me more than palace high,
+            And more the cloak of simple wool
+              Than robes in which I learned to sigh.
+
+            The crust I ate beside my tent
+              Was more than this fine bread to me;
+            The wind's voice where the hill-path went
+              Was more than tambourine can be." [5]
+
+
+Arab women have come to the hospital from time to time, but they
+always long to return to their desert life, and are impatient at the
+restraints of town life.
+
+The Kurds are a warlike people inhabiting the mountains round
+Mosul. They are the descendants of the wild people of the mountains
+mentioned by Xenophon as the Karduchi, who so severely harassed the
+Greeks during their retreat. In later years they were known as the
+Parthians, who opposed the Romans. From this people came the celebrated
+Saladin, the opponent of Richard Coeur de Lion in the crusading
+days. The Kurds have been compared to the old Scottish Highlanders, who
+were noted for their devotion to their chiefs. A well-known writer,
+in speaking of this trait in the character of these people, says
+that once he heard the following story: "A chieftain having died,
+one of his followers, who was standing on the roof of his house
+when the news of his master's death was brought to him, exclaimed,
+'What! is the Beg dead? Then I will not live another moment,' and
+immediately threw himself from the roof and was dashed to pieces."
+
+A few of these Kurds are Nestorians, but the majority of them are
+Moslems, and are a very fierce-looking set of people. They carry
+as a rule large daggers in the waistband, and are quite capable of
+using them when necessary. We once had a servant who was a Kurd,
+and although as a rule a peaceable man, he often longed to be off
+when he heard of any fighting going on in his country. He used to
+boast to the other servants of the many people he had robbed and
+murdered! but said of course he would never harm us, as we were in
+the place of father and mother to him. We are quite hoping to secure
+his services again on our return to Mosul.
+
+There are about two thousand Jews in Mosul, who date their descent
+from the time of the Captivity. When Cyrus issued his decree allowing
+all Jews to return to their native land, about fifty thousand of
+those living in Mesopotamia joyfully availed themselves of this
+permission, but a few preferred to remain in their adopted land, and
+their descendants are there to this day. In spite of much persecution,
+they have remained firm in their belief. Mohammed quite hoped at first
+that the Jews would easily be converted to Mohammedanism. He therefore
+instructed all his followers to turn their faces towards the temple
+at Jerusalem when praying, but before many months he saw that his
+hopes in this direction were doomed to disappointment. He therefore
+withdrew his former instructions, and ordained that in future all
+Mohammedans should turn to the Ka'aba at Mecca when engaged in prayer.
+
+The Jews in Mosul are looked down upon and despised by Christian and
+Moslem alike. In the dispensary it is sad to see with what loathing
+the Jews are treated. The scornful way in which the word "Yahudi"
+(Jew) is hurled at these people is enough to make one's heart ache for
+them. If there is anything degrading to be done, a Jew is the only
+one to be found willing to do it. The Jews are the shoe-blacks of
+Mosul. It being considered very degrading to clean boots and shoes,
+the Jew undertakes this task, receiving payment at the rate of about
+1/4d. a pair.
+
+It is a wonderful sight to see all these different
+nationalities--Moslems, Christians, Jews, Kurds, Arabs, Devil
+Worshippers--all sitting down together in the waiting-room of the
+dispensary while waiting their turn to see the doctor.
+
+It reminds one of the picture of Peace, in which the artist depicts
+the lion, the leopard, and the wolf living in harmony with the lamb. I
+am afraid the resemblance is only superficial, for in the hearts of
+that rude miscellaneous throng there is little of peace, and much of
+anger, wrath, jealousy, hatred, and murder.
+
+The dwellers in the desert and mountain would scorn the idea of
+passing the time in recreations of any kind, but the town gentlemen
+much enjoy a little relaxation from their arduous (?) labours. Riding
+and racing are much in vogue in Mosul. Just outside one of the gates
+is a long, level stretch of land, uncultivated, which is used by the
+sporting part of the population for racing. Betting is not a part of
+the programme. Any one who possesses a horse is at liberty to enter
+it for the races; and every Thursday afternoon a large conclave of
+people may be seen watching the performance with great interest. Horse
+dealers who have horses for sale race their animals with the hope
+that they will carry off the palm, in which case the value of the
+horse is considerably raised.
+
+A few of the Mosul men go in for hunting, but it is not a favourite
+pastime. My husband sometimes goes with some of the Begs, who are fond
+of hawking.  The boys much enjoy slinging, and some of them are quite
+experts at it, at times their aim being rather too accurate. The
+spring is the season for slinging, and hundreds of boys may be
+seen outside the town on a fine day armed with these instruments of
+torture. They line up along the walls of the city, and take aim at
+every passer-by. This is somewhat disconcerting, especially when some
+little boy takes a shot at your horse's head or tail, a game of which
+the animal does not at all approve. Or sometimes the boys form armies,
+each opposing side being composed of an equal number of slingers. They
+stand at a distance of about fifty yards apart and commence warfare
+in real earnest. It is rather a terrible ordeal to have to run the
+gauntlet of these two opposing armies. The stones seem to whizz round
+one's head in a most alarming manner; but although my mare has received
+a few stray shots of which she much disapproved, yet I have fortunately
+never actually been hit. Occasionally boys become so vicious in their
+excitement that the Government here has to put a stop to their "wars"
+for a time, as they do so much injury to one another.
+
+A form of recreation which is indulged in by all the Mosul people is
+that of paying a yearly visit to a hot sulphur spring. This spring
+is situated about twelve miles from Mosul on the Baghdad road, and
+is called Hammam Ali.
+
+A small village has grown up around the spring, but cannot furnish
+anything like the accommodation needed for the thousands of visitors
+who flock there in the early summer. To meet this need, small booths
+are built of dried grass, each family renting one for the time of their
+visit. Two years ago it was estimated that ten thousand people from
+Mosul were there at one time, all congregated together without any
+proper accommodation, or any sanitary arrangements; the consequence
+was that disease and sickness were very prevalent amongst them,
+and many went seeking health, and found death.
+
+Last year a similar number were as usual gathered at Hammam Ali,
+when one evening a lighted match was carelessly thrown down, with
+the result that in a few minutes many of these booths were a mass of
+flames. Several children were burnt to death and two women.
+
+The next day the exodus from the place was universal. We were staying
+then at a house midway between Mosul and Hammam Ali, and watched the
+procession of people returning, a steady stream from morning till
+night. After a day or two, however, the sad episode was forgotten,
+and visitors began to flock back again.
+
+We once saw this celebrated place. It was on our way to Mosul, and we
+arrived late one night at Hammam Ali, minus our tent. The villagers
+kindly offered us the use of the Hammam (bath) for the night, so
+we made a tour of inspection, but decided to decline their offer
+with thanks.
+
+The place was damp, dirty, and malodorous. We preferred to pass the
+night in a stable, which looked a trifle more inviting, although
+full of rat-holes. In the morning I paid a visit to the Hammam, as
+it was a ladies' bathing day, and found the bath crowded with women
+and children, packed in like sardines in a box! The water was very
+hot, and I wondered the women could stand so long in it. Some of them
+looked rather as if they had been boiled. Here were women and children,
+apparently healthy, bathing in the same water as others suffering
+from all manner of skin diseases and other horrible things. However,
+they all looked perfectly happy and contented; and I would not grudge
+these poor creatures any little pleasure which might help to brighten
+their lives.
+
+We shall see in the following chapters how little brightness they
+possess, and, on the other hand, how much of sadness and sorrow.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE RIVER TIGRIS
+
+    The river Tigris--Ancient historical interest--Garden of Eden--
+    Origin of name unknown--Swiftness--Sources--Navigation--Keleqs
+    --Bathing, fishing, washing--Crossing rivers.
+
+
+                                    "The softly lapsing river,
+                                    It whispers in its flow,
+                                    Of dear days gone for ever,
+                                    Those days of long ago."
+
+                                                          P. B. Marston.
+
+
+The river Tigris, on the banks of which Mosul is situated, is a
+noble stream. Though inferior in length to its sister the Euphrates,
+yet it is no mean rival, either in antiquity or historical fame. They
+share together the distinction of having on their banks the romantic
+spot reputed to be the Paradise of Adam and Eve. The Garden of Eden is
+situated, according to the tradition of the country, near the junction
+of the Euphrates and Tigris. When we passed that way on our journey
+from Busrah to Baghdad, the land was flooded by the spring rains,
+so we saw nothing of the beauties of Paradise.
+
+The Tigris can also claim, in common with the Euphrates, an interesting
+connection with some of the ancient kingdoms of the world, extending
+back to early post-diluvian times. Near by, the Assyrian Empire
+built its towns of splendour and strength. Daniel records visions
+seen upon its banks, Cyrus is said to have marched his troops
+along its shores, Alexander overthrew the armies of the Medes and
+Persians near its basin, while in the plain of Nineveh the dynasty
+of the Ommiade caliphs was destroyed and supplanted by that of the
+Abassides. The origin of its name is unknown, but it is thought that
+the swiftly-flowing character of the river gave rise to its name. Hence
+the old Scriptural name Hiddekel, signifying "swift or quick." Owing
+to its wealth of fertilising power, it is sometimes called by the
+Arabs "Nahar-as-Salam," the River of Peace. At all times the Tigris
+is a swift river, but the velocity with which it travels differs
+according to the season of the year, the swiftest time of all being
+in the spring, when the snows from all the surrounding mountains melt
+and rush down to the river, causing it often to overflow its banks,
+and increasing its impetuosity to a great extent. At this time it is
+possible to travel on the river from Mosul to Baghdad in forty-eight
+hours, while in the late summer or autumn it takes at least ten or
+twelve days. When flowing at its fastest rate, the Tigris is said to
+be swifter than the Danube. The course of the river is a very winding
+one, extending for about 1040 miles. Its breadth varies very much. At
+Mosul it is a little less than 400 feet, at Baghdad about 600, while
+in one place where another river flows into it, the width amounts to
+over 1000 feet.
+
+The sources of the Tigris are at an altitude about 5000 feet above
+sea-level, but the greater part of its fall is accomplished at
+its commencement, by the time it reaches Mosul the elevation above
+sea-level is only 353 feet, the remainder of its course, a distance
+of about 650 miles, being made by easy descent.
+
+With a very little trouble the river could easily be made navigable
+as far up as Mosul, the chief hindrance to this being obstructions in
+the river which could be removed by dynamite or other explosives. A
+day's journey from Mosul by water there is a large dam stretching
+right across the river, believed to have been built by Darius with the
+intent to prevent Alexander from penetrating his dominions by means
+of the river. When the Tigris is full this is not an insurmountable
+barrier even as it exists now. During the summer and autumn the water
+is very shallow, and steamers would find it difficult to reach Mosul,
+but a little engineering could render the river navigable at all
+seasons. Once or twice steamers have reached Mosul, thereby causing
+great excitement amongst the natives. For the last thirty years it has
+been the talk of Mosul that "steamers are coming," but they have not
+yet started. We heard a year ago that two steamers had been chartered
+for plying between Mosul and Baghdad, and were only awaiting a firman
+from the Sultan, but so far nothing has been seen of them.
+
+Pending the inauguration of steamers, the natives still continue
+to use the same method of river transport as existed in the days of
+Abraham and Jonah. This consists of a raft-like construction, and is
+employed for both passenger and goods traffic. It is composed of a
+number of sheep or goat skins inflated and fastened close together,
+upon which cross-bars of wood are laid and bound firmly in place. The
+skins are examined daily and when necessary reinflated; great care
+must be taken to keep them moist, for if they become dry they are
+liable to burst. The raft is manned by one or two natives, whose
+only work is to guide the "keleq," as the raft is called, to keep
+it in the middle of the stream, away from all dangerous rocks and
+shoals. For this purpose a rough kind of oar is used, made from the
+branch of a tree, with palm branches at the end forming the blade. The
+keleq floats down the river with the current, the passengers amusing
+themselves with singing and reciting stories.
+
+When a European travels, a little hut is built for his convenience. A
+light framework of lath is run up, just large enough to hold a
+travelling bedstead and chair; this is covered with felt or water-proof
+sheeting and placed upon the raft. On arrival at Baghdad the whole is
+sold for about half its original price. The owner of the keleq sells
+the planks of wood forming the floor of the raft, packs up carefully
+his skins, and returns by land to Mosul, as the current is too strong
+to allow of his return the same way as he came. He is then ready to
+be hired for another journey. In good weather a journey on a raft
+is a very pleasant mode of travelling. It has many advantages over
+caravaning by land. There is no need of the early morning or midnight
+scramble preparatory to the start. The owner simply ties up after
+sunset, and as soon as dawn appears he quietly slips the rope, and
+off the raft glides, while the passenger is still sweetly slumbering,
+unconscious of any movement.
+
+In summer, however, the river is the happy hunting-ground of flies
+and mosquitoes, the result being that rest and sleep are impossible
+either by day or night. In a storm, too, the keleq is not a very secure
+place of refuge. An English lady travelling from Mosul to Baghdad
+was once caught in a hurricane and her keleq blown about in such a
+way that she expected every minute to find herself precipitated into
+the river, while her little hut and all its contents were saturated
+through and through with water.
+
+A raft is a good target for the Arabs whose villages lie along the
+banks of the river. An Englishman once placed his bicycle, which he
+was taking home, on the top of his hut, thinking to keep it out of
+harm's way. The Arabs, seeing this extraordinary-looking machine,
+at once came to the conclusion that it was a Maxim gun or some such
+deadly weapon. They immediately opened fire, and continued shooting
+till the raft was out of sight--fortunately with no serious result.
+
+The French Consul at Mosul was also attacked by Arabs when travelling
+on a keleq. For seven hours they kept up an active fusilade, both
+parties making good use of their guns.
+
+The merchants of Mosul use these rafts for exporting their goods to
+Baghdad and other places. After the harvest enormous keleqs may daily
+be seen leaving Mosul, loaded heavily with wheat and corn. All goods
+for the south are exported in this way. For these large commercial
+rafts, about three to four hundred skins are used, while others contain
+from fifty to two hundred, according to the size of raft and number of
+passengers. A European travelling alone would need about one hundred
+and fifty to two hundred skins to make a fairly comfortable raft.
+
+Natives often use a single inflated skin for travelling down the
+river, sometimes even going as far as Baghdad on one. This latter
+feat a man has been known to accomplish in twenty-four hours. It is
+by no means as easy as it looks, to balance yourself on a skin; when
+bathing we have often tried, but found it very difficult. The Arabs
+use these skins as ferry-boats when the river is unfordable. They
+take off their garments and tie them round their head as a turban,
+so that when they reach the opposite side their clothes are quite dry.
+
+In a village near Mosul I have seen women crossing the river in this
+way, many of them carrying a child on her back in addition to a large
+bundle of clothes which she has been washing in the river. The Arabs,
+both men, women, and children, are quite at home in the river--swimming
+as easily as ducks, and playing all manner of games in the water; it is
+quite interesting to watch them from a distance. The women do not take
+off their long loose garment, but just hold the skirt of it in their
+teeth if it impedes their swimming. Last summer we were staying for a
+time at a castle quite near the river, about an hour's ride from Mosul;
+while there we bathed almost every day, a small wood running to the
+edge of the water acting as a convenient dressing-place. The owner of
+the castle gave notice to all the villagers that the wood was "hareem"
+each afternoon, so we were always quite private. I engaged the services
+of an Arab woman to teach me to swim whenever my husband could not be
+there. She could swim like a fish herself, but had no idea of teaching
+any one else; however, before our holidays were over I had mastered
+the art. She would make me put one hand on her shoulder and then
+call out: "Now, kick"--that was the sum total of her instructions,
+"kick"! The river is considered very dangerous for bathing unless
+you know it well. Shortly before we were there last year, an Arab
+woman had been drowned. She was a good swimmer, and was swimming
+in deep water, when suddenly she called out that she was drowning,
+and before any one could go to her rescue she sank, and was quickly
+carried down the stream by the current; when the body was recovered
+life was quite extinct. For a few days the women were too frightened
+to bathe in that place, thinking that death was due to something in
+the water; but when we arrived a fortnight later they had apparently
+quite recovered from their fright, and were bathing as usual.
+
+Another day we were watching the men playing in the water, when
+suddenly a black object appeared in the distance floating down the
+stream; it looked like the head of a baby. As it approached the place
+where the men were bathing, one of our servants swam out to see what
+it was, and found to his horror it was the body of a man. He brought
+it to the bank, and every one rushed to view the corpse. Then came
+the question as to who would bury it; no one was willing to do this,
+although the body was that of an Arab, and all the onlookers were
+also Arab villagers. We offered backsheesh to any one who would dig
+the grave, but no one volunteered, and suggested pushing the body out
+into the current again to be carried to Baghdad, as the easiest way
+of settling the matter. Finally a mullah passed by, and seeing the
+body, ordered some men to bury it at once. We were very thankful, as
+we could not bear to think of the poor body floating down the stream,
+or being left exposed on the banks of the river.
+
+We watched some men dig a very shallow grave, and the body was laid
+to rest, the mullah reciting some Moslem prayers ere it was covered
+with earth and stones.
+
+As one sees such scenes as this taking place, it is not pleasant to
+think that this same river forms our sole water supply for drinking and
+all domestic purposes! If we take a walk down the river to the place
+where the water-carriers fetch the water, we shall have all the more
+reason thoroughly to enjoy our water! There hundreds of women are to
+be seen washing their clothes, men and boys enjoying a swim, horses,
+mules, and donkeys revelling in the mud; while not at all unlikely a
+few dead dogs or cats may be seen floating around! All congregate in
+this favourite spot. This being the case, it is not surprising that
+often our water resembles mud much more than water when brought to the
+house. Needless to say, all our drinking-water is filtered and boiled
+before using. The water is brought from the river in skins on the back
+of donkeys or mules, at the rate of 3s. 4d. a hundred skins. It seems
+so absurd to be paying in this way for water when, with a comparatively
+speaking small outlay, it could easily be conveyed to each house by
+means of pipes from the river running close by. This has been done
+by an energetic Vali in Damascus, and the result is enviable.
+
+The Tigris cannot be said to contain a great or varied supply of fish,
+but there are two or three kinds to be found, which help to vary the
+housekeeping monotony of everlasting mutton and chicken. A very large
+fish called "bis" is the best kind, as the meat is tender and mild,
+while the bones are few; the others seem to be all bones, and are
+hardly worth eating, besides being absolutely flavourless.
+
+Fishing is carried on from the bridge by the fish-sellers. A line is
+generally used, baited with melon or pieces of flesh. Sometimes poison
+is thrown into the river in order to kill the fish, which then float on
+the top of the water and are easily caught. In the summer it is very
+risky buying fish in the bazaar, as it so soon becomes stale; so if I
+want to be quite sure of having fresh fish, I send a servant down to
+the bridge to see a fish caught and then bring it home. As a matter of
+fact, I fancy he does not at all like sitting in the sun waiting, so
+often beguiles the time by sitting in the coffee-house situated on the
+banks of the river; and then, having allowed an hour or two to elapse,
+returns empty-handed, saying: "There are no fish in the river to-day."
+
+Rivers without bridges are a great trial of patience when journeying;
+it takes such a long time to transport everything, and the crossing
+generally takes place at the end of a stage when every one is tired,
+and--shall I confess it?--often cross too. The waiting in the
+burning sun while the boats are fetched, the weary bargaining, and
+all the usual trials of patience become exaggerated out of their
+due proportions when you know that just across the water is the
+resting-place for the night--so near and yet so far! And as you sit on
+the wrong side of the river waiting, waiting, it is difficult to feel
+restful and at peace with all men. I long often to be able to do as the
+animals do, i.e. swim over. A small charge is made for the transport
+of each animal, so the muleteer often prefers to swim over himself,
+taking his animals with him. There is as a rule only one ferry-boat,
+so that you have to take your turn; and as each passage takes about
+an hour, a great deal of patience is often needed.
+
+The ferry-boat is a large flat-bottomed, antediluvian-looking
+construction, and you wonder how ever it can bear the weight of
+all that is put upon it. When a carriage is to be transported the
+horses are first unharnessed, then the vehicle is lifted bodily on
+to the boat, with all its contents, the passengers and horses finding
+standing-room as best they can.
+
+When you get to the other side your troubles are not over, for on
+starting to put up the tent you find one of the poles has been left
+behind on the other side; so there is nothing to do but to sit still
+and continue the waiting process. Or perhaps you think a cup of tea
+would help while away the time, only to find that the charcoal has
+not yet arrived! So there is only one thing to do, and that is to
+wait till everything is safely landed; then you can begin to prepare
+for the long-delayed rest.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE CHILDREN OF MOSUL
+
+    Spoiling process--Despair of the parents--The "god" of the
+    hareem--Death by burning--Festivities at birth of boy--Cradles
+    and cradle songs--School life--Feast in honour of a boy having
+    read the Koran through--"Only a girl"--Girl life--Girl victims
+    of Naseeb--Marriage.
+
+
+    "The household must weep for forty days on the birth of a girl."
+
+                                                         Arabic Proverb.
+
+
+                   "Is it all forgot? All schooldays' friendship,
+                    Childhood's innocence?"
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+                         "Where children are not, heaven is not."
+
+                                                           A. Swinburne.
+
+
+The children of Mosul have on the whole a very good time. From their
+earliest days they are allowed to do pretty much as they like, and
+only when the process of spoiling is completed, and the child has
+become a terror to all, do the parents realise that it is far easier
+to spoil a child than to "unspoil" him, once the deed is done. This
+method, or rather lack of method, of bringing up the children, is a
+great cause of trouble and sorrow in after years both to the parents
+and to the children themselves, but yet they never seem to profit by
+their experiences, for they still continue to say that it is a great
+"aib" or shame to deny a child anything he may want. Although this
+spoiling process is carried on with both boys and girls in the earlier
+years of their lives, it is brought to perfection in their treatment
+of the boys.
+
+I remember a pretty little child called Jamila (beautiful); she
+was so fair and pretty that she was known by many as "the English
+child." When she was about three years old she became very ill, and
+the mother brought her to my husband, who prescribed for her, but said
+that the chief part of the treatment lay in the diet. On no account
+was solid food to be given for at least three or four days. The mother
+looked in despair when she heard this, as she said, "Jamila will cry
+if she cannot have her meat and bread and pillau!" A day or two later
+I was calling at the house, and saw that Jamila was looking very ill,
+and asked the mother what the child had been eating. "Oh," she said,
+"poor little child, I had to give her meat and bread, for she tore her
+hair and clothes in her anger, on my refusing to give them to her,
+and so, how could I deny them to her?" And sure enough, while I was
+there, Jamila began to cry for bread, and on her mother refusing, threw
+herself on the ground in a paroxysm of anger, beating her head and
+face with her clenched fist, till she was quite blue and black in the
+face. The mother ran at once and brought bread and meat, and gave to
+the child, who immediately recovered her equanimity of mind and temper.
+
+Then again, I have seen a room full of people all in despair over
+a child of perhaps two or three years old, who refuses to drink his
+medicine ordered by the doctor. The father begins the performance by
+solemnly taking the glass containing the medicine up to the child, and
+saying to him, "Oh, my beloved, will you take this medicine?" "No,"
+says the child, and pushes it away. The father looks round on the
+audience for signs of wonder and astonishment at the marvellous
+doings of the child. Then perhaps the uncle has a try, and meets
+with like success; then the mother, the aunts, and a few friends
+all beseech the child to take the medicine, saying, "For my sake,
+for the sake of your father, your mother, &c., take this," but,
+of course, all are unsuccessful, and they all shake their heads and
+say, "I told you so, he will not take it," and it being a "khatiya"
+(sin) to force a child to do anything against his will, the child,
+of course, gains the victory in this as in everything else. If you
+suggest pouring the medicine down the child's throat by force, the
+parents and friends will put you down as being a monster of cruelty.
+
+If there happens to be only one boy in the hareem, he becomes
+almost like a little god to all the women folk. A small friend of
+mine was in this position, and although a very jolly little boy,
+was fast becoming unbearable in his actions towards his grandmother,
+mother, and aunts. He was only about eight years old, but one day
+he was calling on me with his aunt, whom I loved very much, when,
+without the smallest provocation, he suddenly took up a stick and
+gave his aunt two or three hard cuts across her shoulders with it,
+and then ran laughing out of the room. I did not say anything to the
+boy, but presently my husband came in to lunch, and I asked him to
+give the boy a beating, and told him what he had done. So we went to
+hunt for the boy, and found him hiding behind his grandmother, who
+besought us not to touch the darling boy. My husband gave the boy a
+very slight whipping, and told him if ever he did such a thing again,
+he would give him something to remember! The boy was so astonished
+at being chastised, that to this day he has been a changed boy,
+and much more bearable in his home life.
+
+Another instance of the way the boys are spoilt. A woman and her
+daughter, a little girl of about eight years, were sitting in their
+verandah one day behind a pile of cotton which had just been "fluffed"
+by the man whose work it is to fluff cotton. The son of the woman,
+a boy of seven, thought it would be great fun to set a light to this
+cotton, which he promptly did by throwing a lighted match into the
+midst of it, with the result that his mother and sister were burnt
+to death. I called at the house some days after, and found the boy
+who had done this deed quite a hero in the eyes of the women folk,
+and far from being blamed and punished, on the contrary they were
+fondling and caressing him more than ever. I told them I thought the
+boy was so pleased with all the attention he was receiving, that very
+likely he would do the same thing again if he had the opportunity.
+
+Let me give you a short sketch of a child's life, in order that you
+may see for yourself something of their everyday life.
+
+As we are talking of Eastern children, we must begin with the boy,
+as he is so much more important a personage than a mere girl.
+
+A boy's birth is celebrated by great rejoicings and feastings, and if
+the family is a well-to-do one, at least two sheep will be slain and
+cooked and given to the poor. Our next-door neighbours were rejoicing
+over the birth of a boy a short time ago, and they thought it necessary
+to sacrifice three sheep, and for two days the poor were coming with
+their little dishes and pots to carry away portions of the meat. I
+went to see this ceremony, and it was very interesting. Apparently
+no questions were asked, the only recommendations necessary being
+poverty and need. Also hundreds of loaves of bread were given away at
+this time. If we go to the hareem to admire and pay our homage to the
+little king, we must be careful not to praise him too much, or, if
+we do, we must qualify our praise by saying "Mash'allah," which will
+counteract any evil influence. We shall find the baby boy swathed up
+tightly in his swaddling clothes, his eyebrows and eyelids pencilled
+with native cosmetics, and very likely a beauty spot on his forehead;
+his little head will be covered with a little silk cap, over which a
+handkerchief will be wrapped, and on the cap will be seen some coins
+and blue beads, to avert the dreaded evil eye. We shall find him very
+probably strapped tightly into a cradle made of brightly-painted wood;
+the baby is laid on the top of the little mattress, which is level with
+the sides of the cradle, and then strapped down. As he grows out of his
+first cradle he will be given another and larger one, and much more
+comfortable, in which he need not be strapped, as the sides are high
+enough to prevent his falling out; a cord is attached to the cradle,
+so that his mother can swing him gently while she sits and spins or
+does anything she has to do. It is very quaint to listen to their
+monotonous chant as they rock the cradle, and very often they sing
+to the swing of the cradle, "Allah ho, Allah hi, Allah ho, Allah hi,"
+"He is God, He is living, He is God, He is living."
+
+The first time of shaving a boy's head is looked upon as a very
+important day, and the barber must be careful to leave a little tuft
+of hair on the top of the head, by which he can be pulled up into
+heaven, otherwise he might get left behind.
+
+When the boy is about five, he will probably be sent to school. He
+is then dressed as a miniature man, in white knickerbockers, shirt,
+coloured vest, and silk or cloth "zeboon," a loose garment reaching
+to the ankles; on his head, of course, will be the inevitable red fez,
+adorned with charms to bring him good luck and keep off evil. Arrived
+at the school, our little friend will seat himself on the ground, and
+his education will begin by learning the A b t (alef, bey, tey), the
+A, B, C, of the Arabic language. After he has mastered the alphabet,
+and can write a few words, then the Koran will be started, and the boy
+will be kept hard at this, each day learning a short portion till a
+chapter is known perfectly by heart. All the boys in the school may
+be reciting different portions of the Koran at the same time, and
+in a sing-song tone, so that, as you pass up and down the streets,
+it is easy to recognise these seats of learning for the young. I
+have often peeped into some of these schools, and watched the boys,
+all seated on the ground, swaying themselves backwards and forwards,
+repeating the Koran in a loud, monotonous voice. When a boy has been
+through the Koran once, a great feast is made in his honour. He is
+decked out in grand new garments, generally of silk and embroidery,
+and men dancers are engaged for a day or more, according to the means
+of the parents.
+
+The son of a friend of mine in Mosul had just completed this part
+of his education, and his mother sent word to know if the dancers
+might come and dance before us in our compound. We thought this
+might be rather trying, as they would probably have stayed all day,
+so I sent a message thanking her for the honour, but saying I would
+prefer to come to her house to see the "tamash" (sight), as I only
+had a limited time to give to it. So at the time appointed I went,
+accompanied by a woman servant and a man, as I thought there would
+probably be a great commotion. On arriving at the door of the house,
+it seemed hopeless even to think of getting in, as the courtyard
+was full of men, dancing, shouting, yelling, whirling and slashing
+naked swords and daggers. The court was a very small one, and my first
+thought was to turn and fly, but the hostess was a very dear friend of
+mine, and I did not like to disappoint her, so I sent the man-servant
+in front to open a passage in the crowd and followed hard after him,
+and felt very thankful when we reached a room safely. The women were
+gathered there looking out of the windows at the fun. But this did
+not seem to please the dancers, for they called repeatedly for the
+"khatoun" (lady) to come and watch them, and some even followed me
+into the room, thereby throwing the women into a state of panic and
+fright. The men were so wildly excited that they hardly knew what they
+were doing. Stripped to the waist, they flourished their swords and
+yelled, then jumped high into the air, then crouched on the ground
+and again leapt into the air, all the time pointing the daggers or
+swords either at their own hearts or some one else's. To add to the
+general excitement, other men were beating drums and playing on a
+weird kind of stringed instrument. After receiving their "backsheesh"
+they departed, for which I was not sorry. The boy in whose honour
+all this is taking place is very happy and delighted, and thinks
+now he is a man, and so, as he is leaving his childhood behind him,
+we too will leave him and pass on to the much less important subject
+(from an Eastern standpoint) of the childhood of a girl.
+
+"Only a girl"--"Only a girl." These are the words which generally
+follow the announcement of the birth of a girl. Poor little mite,
+her entrance into the world is not a cause of great joy or rejoicing,
+and from her earliest days, I think, this lies as a shadow upon her;
+for to my mind there is a sadness and pathos about the little girls
+quite different to the masterful looks and ways of the boys, the
+lords of creation. As it is a part of the Moslem's creed to bow in
+submission to the will of God, so the parents now, as always, say,
+"It is God's will" ("Al Allah"), and bow their heads in submission
+to this new yoke put upon them. Of course there are exceptions,
+and some love their little daughters very much, but taken as a rule,
+girls are not welcome--certainly not more than one. If the parents of
+the girl baby are well-to-do, perhaps they may sacrifice one sheep,
+but the feastings and almsgiving are done in a much quieter way and
+with as little ostentation as possible; and if you visit the mother
+it is not necessary to say very much about the new arrival as it is
+"only a girl," and it is not well to make the poor mother feel too sad.
+
+So the little girl starts her life, with not too much love and
+attention. If she happens to be well and strong she will thrive apace
+in spite of all, but if she is at all inclined to be weak or delicate,
+the chances are that she will be neglected until it is too late for
+human aid, and then perhaps, as a conscience salve, she will be taken
+to the doctor by the mother or some other relative. How many of these
+little victims have been brought when too late to my husband I should
+not like to say. Directly the doctor sees a child suffering from some
+terribly neglected disease he at once says, "A girl, of course! If
+the child had been a boy you would have brought him long ago." And so,
+alas, it is true of many cases. It is a convenient way of getting rid
+of some of a too numerous family of girls, and then the mothers and
+relations will piously clasp their hands and say, "It is the will of
+God." The will of God, indeed! This so-called submission to the will of
+God, or "kismet" or "naseeb," as the Turk and Arab call it, is often
+responsible for a great deal of neglect by mothers of their little
+girls. For instance, there was such a nice-looking young widow who
+used to come and see me. She had two children, both girls, the elder
+about five years of age, and the younger nearly three. This younger
+child was a perfectly beautiful child--just like a lovely wax doll;
+indeed, so much did she resemble a doll that she was often called
+"l'abbi," which means a doll. Her sweet little face had a complexion
+which any English mother might have been proud of, and her large
+brown eyes were full of life and fun, while her dear little golden
+curls falling over her forehead and forming a halo round her head
+gave her an appearance of a little cherub. I found out very soon
+that this child had the beginnings of a terrible disease in her,
+which, if attended to at once, might be cured, but which neglected
+would mean certain and sure death. I spoke to the mother about it,
+and implored her to bring the child to the hospital for treatment;
+but no, she would not listen; she simply shrugged her shoulders and
+said, "Naseeb, al Allah. If the child is to die, she will die; if it
+is written she is to live, she will live," and nothing I could say
+would induce her either to bring the child or to let us have her to
+take care of; and I heard afterwards from a neighbour that the mother
+wanted the little girlie to die, so that she might be free to marry
+again, as no man would take a wife who already was burdened with two
+girls. Instances of this kind might be multiplied by the hundred,
+showing how girl life is neglected, under the blasphemous idea that
+it is "naseeb."
+
+As a rule it is not considered at all necessary to send a Moslem
+girl to school, but quite lately the Turkish authorities have opened
+some schools for girls in Mosul, and have sent women teachers from
+Constantinople, so this is a step in the right direction. I visited
+one of these schools, and was very much struck by the happier looks
+of the girls compared with the faces of the same girls in their own
+homes. They are taught to read and write and, of course, to recite
+the Koran. Also, we were shown some very pretty pieces of silk
+embroidery which the girls had just finished, and really some were
+quite artistic and pretty. These schools are free, the teachers being
+paid by Government, and, therefore, girls of all classes sit side by
+side. The pasha's daughter and the daughter of the pasha's slave may
+both attend the same school and mix quite freely and happily together.
+
+For the first seven or eight years of a girl's life she may go
+unveiled and run about pretty freely with only a silk scarf on her
+head, but when she reaches the age of nine or thereabout a great
+change takes place in her life. She is prohibited from going out,
+except occasionally with the mother or other relations, and then she
+must be closely veiled. Poor children, I do so often pity them--they
+so soon leave their childhood behind them and become women before they
+come to girlhood. Of course the great aim and object of parents is
+to marry the girls as soon as possible to the man who can offer the
+highest price for her; but the subject of weddings is so extensive
+that we must leave it for another chapter. Only I will say here that I
+think the reason girls are looked upon more or less as a nuisance is
+because they cost so much to get married; for if a father has three
+or four girls to marry, he needs to be a rich man. From the time the
+girl is four or five years old he begins loading her with gold and
+jewellery, so that by the day she comes to be of a marriageable age
+she shall have a good supply to offer to her would-be husband.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE MOSLEM WOMEN OF MOSUL
+
+    Beauty behind the veil--Types of beauty--My dear old friend of 110
+    years of age--Aids to beauty described--Pretty children--Beauty
+    tainted with sin--Imprisonment of women--Peeps into some
+    hareems--Warm receptions--A visit from the ladies of a select
+    hareem--Love the magic key to open hearts.
+
+
+    "Women are worthless creatures, and soil men's reputations."
+
+                                                         Arabic Proverb.
+
+
+    "As I told you always, her beauty and her brain go not together."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+It has often been said that there is very little beauty to be seen
+behind the veil in Turkish Arabia. I certainly do not agree with
+this statement, for I have seen some very beautiful faces amongst the
+Mohammedan women of Mosul. There is beauty, too, to suit all tastes:
+the winsome blonde, with her pale blue eyes and fair hair; the striking
+brunette, peeping from behind her veil with laughing brown eyes,
+which at times are as full of pathos as those of a faithful collie
+which has lost its master.
+
+I think the chief attraction of Eastern women lies in their eyes. One
+face comes to my mind as I write. It is not a pretty face in the
+ordinary sense of the word, but the eyes are wonderful, revealing
+a soul full of sadness, a longing for something not attainable: eyes
+that might make you weep as you feel them fixed upon you in unspeakable
+yearning for love. Another type of face is the bright, vivacious one,
+seen chiefly amongst young unmarried women--marriage in the East
+generally having the effect of taking all brightness out of a face or
+a life. There is also many a sweet face to be seen in Mosul. Perhaps
+these could not be called beautiful except for the sweetness. One
+such I can see now as my memory takes me back a few months. A dear
+face is pressed close to mine, and with pleading blue eyes and such
+a sweet, expressive mouth which utters words such as these: "Khatoun,
+I cannot go--I cannot leave you. Will you let me live always with you?"
+
+If only you knew the history of this woman, you would wonder that
+her face could bear such a sweet look, or, indeed, how she managed
+to endure life at all.
+
+Beauty of the East is all too fleeting as a rule, a woman of thirty
+years of age being quite passée. Nevertheless, there are some very
+fine-looking old ladies in Mosul. One dear friend of mine is proud of
+the fact that she has reached the grand age of 110! Her face still
+retains some of its former beauty. Her daughter is a young woman of
+nearly ninety, her grand-daughter can boast of seventy years, while
+as to her great-grandchildren, they are countless!
+
+This old lady came one day to the dispensary for medicine, as she
+wished to be "made strong" enough to take a journey consisting of six
+hours' riding to a hot-water spring outside Mosul, a place to which
+she had been in the habit of going regularly for the last 100 years
+or so! She was also quite distressed because her skin was rough,
+and asked the doctor to give her some medicine to make it smooth
+again. Even at 110 she was capable of thinking of and longing for
+a renewal of her lost beauty. Aids to beauty are much sought after
+by the ladies of Mosul, as they do not at all approve of becoming
+"old." It is quite a rare sight to see a white-haired woman. The
+moment grey hairs commence to appear they have recourse to henna, a
+dye much in request by Easterns of both sexes. Freckles are a cause
+of much sorrow of heart to Mosul ladies. One girl, who was really
+very pretty, was brought constantly to the dispensary by her mother,
+who implored my husband to eradicate the freckles with which her
+daughter's face was covered, as, if they were not removed, she might
+never get a proposal of marriage. However, a man was forthcoming who
+apparently did not object to freckles, for shortly before leaving
+Mosul I received an invitation to this girl's wedding-feast.
+
+There are some very pretty children in Mosul, some dark, others
+fair, with blue eyes and curly hair. However, this latter style of
+beauty is not as a rule admired. Mothers have a great horror lest
+their children should have curly hair. If a child possesses it, the
+women try by all means in their power to straighten out the curls,
+sometimes even coming to ask for medicine for this purpose.
+
+Very often, however, the children lose a great deal of their
+beauty when five or six years old. Perhaps it is because their
+souls at that age become tainted with knowledge of evil, and this
+knowledge is reflected on their faces. It is heartrending to see
+pretty little children listening open-mouthed to some horrible tale
+of sin and wickedness told by a member of the hareem. It is true
+there is beauty behind the veil, but, alas! it is beauty tainted
+with the blackness of sin. How can lives be beautiful when the souls
+within are dead?--as dead as sin and sorrow can make them. Boys and
+girls grow up amidst surroundings which soon soil their souls; the
+"innocency of childhood," so dear to the hearts of English parents,
+is unknown in a Moslem hareem.
+
+Many and many a time have I interrupted a conversation consisting
+of things which should not be spoken of, by pointing out to the
+women some boys or girls sitting near by, listening with evident
+delight to their unclean talk. Sometimes they would desist, but as a
+rule would only laugh, saying: "What does it matter? They know all
+about it!" Oh! the pity and horror of it--young lives spoilt and
+contaminated almost before their feet have started on the difficult
+and perilous walk through life. Is it any wonder that these children
+grow up with diseased minds and deadened souls? Then they in their
+turn become the parents of another generation, to whom they teach
+the same soul-destroying creeds.
+
+There is no hope for the children of Mohammedan lands until the
+mothers have learnt a little of the meaning of pure life and
+conversation. There is no hope for the women while the men are
+what they are. The whole system is one of degradation and vice. When
+Mohammed, acting under what he declared to be a revelation from Allah,
+introduced the use of the veil, he swept away for ever all hope of
+happiness for Moslem women. By means of the veil he immured them for
+ever in a living grave. "Imprisoned for life" is the verdict written
+against each Moslem woman as she leaves childhood behind her. Before
+the days of Mohammed the Arabs were in the habit of burying alive
+yearly a certain number of new-born girls; surely the fate of these
+innocents was better than that of the millions of women to-day who
+are buried alive behind the veil. "Ensha' Allah" (God willing), in
+the near future the same Power which raised British women to hold
+the position they now do will also penetrate through the prison bars
+of the hareems of Mohammedan lands and set free the prisoners. An
+enlightened Mohammedan gentleman once said: "The only hope for our
+women is Christianity." God grant that their "only hope" may not be
+denied them.
+
+How often I have said to these women, "Alhamd-'llillah (thank God),
+I am not a Moslem woman!" and the heartfelt answer has always been,
+"Yes, indeed, you may thank God; but it is naseeb" (fate). The longer
+I live amongst Moslem women the more my heart yearns with love and
+pity for them, and the more thankful I am that their lot is not mine.
+
+Let us now peep into some of the many hareems of Mosul. There are some
+into which I should blush with shame to take my readers, on account
+of the conversations we might hear; but we will choose some where,
+in all probability, we shall see and hear nothing objectionable.
+
+Our first visit shall be to a near neighbour of ours. The house
+is a large one, the owner holding a high social position in the
+town. As we enter the outside gates we see a large reception-room,
+in which the master of the house is sitting holding court. We must
+not look that way, as we are in native costume; so, pulling our
+veils a little closer, we hurry on till we reach the door of the
+hareem. This is always kept locked; upon knocking, it is opened by
+a native girl or woman, who immediately kisses our hands or dress,
+then ushers us into the presence of the khatoun. In this case the
+head lady of the hareem has been a widow for some years, and is still
+wearing her black mourning dress. She rises from her place amongst the
+cushions on the floor as we enter and salaams low, bidding us welcome
+to her house, at the same time indicating our seats by her side. We
+arrange ourselves as comfortably as possible, sitting cross-legged in
+true Arab fashion. By-and-by the daughter-in-law comes in--a frail,
+delicate-looking woman, and with her a little girl, her only child. She
+is sad because she has no boy, and is afraid her husband will divorce
+her on this account.
+
+Since leaving Mosul I have heard that her fears on this point were
+not groundless, for her husband has since divorced her and taken
+another wife in her place. The usual coffee is handed round by one
+of the many women servants, and our hostess is very much surprised
+that we will not join her in smoking a cigarette. Sometimes there
+are a dozen or so women living in the same hareem, wives of brothers,
+and it is often difficult to know who is who. The relationships are
+sometimes most perplexing. Even to this day there are houses which I
+visit frequently, but have not yet mastered the intricate "connections"
+of the various members of the hareem.
+
+Here is another hareem, quite different from the last one we
+visited. My special friends in this house are two young girls who
+are not yet married. They are such dear, bright girls, and as I
+enter throw their arms round my neck and bid me welcome in a most
+demonstrative way. If I am expected I always find a meal ready,
+and if my visit is unannounced, a woman is always despatched to
+the nearest "sook" (market) to buy an impromptu meal. They are
+poor people, and I always beg them not to do this, but they never
+listen to my entreaties. The meal consists sometimes of "kabobs,"
+i.e. meat minced and pressed round iron skewers and grilled over
+a charcoal fire; this is placed on a plate and garnished with
+sliced raw onions and bitter herbs. Another time a sheep had been
+killed, and our meal consisted of the "interiors," dished in a
+most tempting manner. Sometimes salads form the principal dish;
+but whatever the meal consists of, it is always served with love,
+and is consequently thoroughly appreciated. This house seems always
+to be full of women, all more or less related. If I get mixed up,
+as I sometimes do, in the relationship of those present, and show my
+ignorance of their names, they are quite hurt, and exclaim: "What,
+you have forgotten me?" "Was I not in the hospital for a week?" or,
+"Did I not bring So-and-so to see you?" If they have seen me once,
+they are quite surprised if I cannot remember all about them, and
+often I have to resort to stratagem to find out their names without
+exposing my forgetfulness. While we sit and talk the girls are all
+busily engaged in crotcheting caps. These are sold in the sook at
+about six-pence a dozen, cotton included. In certain "mahullahs"
+(quarters) of the town you will see all the women doing this work;
+in another part of the town they are all occupied with knitting socks,
+in another cigarette-making is the fashion. Each mahullah seems to have
+its own style of work for the women, to which it adheres more or less.
+
+In one house where I visit, a basin of delicious "lebban" is always
+set before me. We all sit on the floor round a diminutive table about
+five inches high, and each one being provided with a wooden spoon dips
+out the lebban from the central dish. This lebban makes a delicious
+food in the hot weather. It is made something after the same manner
+as "junket," only lebban is more tart and acid. Eaten with grated
+cucumbers, it makes a very refreshing salad. Fortunately for me,
+I can eat and, as a rule, thoroughly enjoy native food. In fact,
+I often prefer it to our own, for almost all attempts at European
+cookery by native cooks are decided failures. My husband, on the
+other hand, cannot indulge in this respect, the excessive fat used
+being too much for his digestive powers.
+
+But to return to our ladies. Not only do I visit in the hareems of the
+towns, but the hareems very often pay me a visit at our house. The
+poorer class of women come very freely, and they know that they are
+always welcome. We have a room specially set apart for women visitors,
+so that they may feel quite safe from any men servants who might
+happen to be about. The higher-class ladies do not come so frequently,
+the idea being that the more strictly they keep to their own hareem,
+the more select and important will they become in the eyes of the
+people. There is one family in Mosul who boast that their hareem have
+never visited any other house. So strictly have the ladies been kept
+in seclusion, that they were not even allowed to go to the "hammam"
+(bath) till quite lately. Now, however, they are allowed the luxury of
+once a month walking a hundred yards or so to the nearest bath. After
+becoming acquainted with the ladies of this hareem I was very anxious
+to obtain permission for them to come and visit me. They did not at
+all hold out any hope that their lords and masters would allow such
+an unheard-of proceeding. One day, however, my husband told the head
+of the house that I was very anxious for the ladies of his hareem
+to come and see me. To the great surprise of all he acquiesced, only
+stipulating that the visit should be kept as secret as possible. The
+ladies were very excited, and for days beforehand were talking about
+the proposed visit and making preparations for it. On the day fixed
+the way had to be cleared of all menkind. The doctor was banished
+from the house for the whole afternoon, the men servants were given
+a holiday, and all doors through which a stray man might happen to
+wander were carefully bolted and barred.
+
+At the hour appointed a woman servant arrived to know if all was
+ready. When she had satisfied herself that no men were visible, nor
+could become so unexpectedly, she returned to fetch the ladies. They
+arrived in all the glory of black silk chuddars, which Judy (our
+woman servant) carefully removed and folded up. The two older ladies
+were quite simply dressed in print or muslin, but the young wife
+was decked out in one of her many bridal costumes, and looked very
+charming. She was then only about sixteen years of age, but was the
+mother of two pretty children, a girl and a boy. They were all so
+delighted to be allowed out for the first time in their lives. We
+began by eating cucumbers and water-melons, followed by tea, coffee,
+and English biscuits and cakes. These latter they much appreciated,
+asking permission to carry away some for other members of the hareem to
+taste. After refreshments had been partaken of they were very anxious
+to see all over the house. As we went from room to room it was so
+funny to hear their remarks. The bedroom seemed to take their fancy
+most of all, as they could not see why we needed a room specially
+for sleeping in.
+
+They were very charmed with our little harmonium, and listened with
+great delight while I played and sang to them some of our old English
+hymns translated into Arabic. One of the ladies trying to play could
+not understand why it would not "speak" for her, and upon my moving
+the pedals was overjoyed to find that she could "make music." Their
+delight at everything was just like that of little children on finding
+a new toy. Their visit lasted about three hours, and they went away
+promising to come again soon. This hareem is a most exceptionally
+happy one. There is only one wife in it, the two elder ladies being
+sisters-in-law to the bride, and unmarried. They all seem to live
+together in peace and happiness. Unfortunately, this is only the
+exception, which always goes to prove the rule, that hareems are not
+the abode of peace. How can there be peace when the heart is full
+of jealousy and hatred? One such case comes to my mind. There are
+two brothers living in one house, one of them being married. After
+some years of married life had passed and they remained childless,
+he took another wife, and the first one was thrown into misery and
+despair. Shortly after this we were awakened one night by hearing
+most fearful shrieks and yells coming from this house. The following
+day we heard that the two wives had been quarrelling and fighting,
+as usual, till at last the husband took the first wife and turned her
+forcibly out of doors. Fortunately, her mother's house was near by,
+to which she went, and where she remains to this day.
+
+It has been said, and unfortunately too often truly said, that love
+has no part in the life of a Moslem woman; and yet it is also true
+that they are, as a rule, a most loving and lovable set of people. It
+is because they have so little love and kindness in their own lives
+that, when it does come to them, their hearts are ready to overflow
+in response.
+
+Perhaps the Arab women are slow to give their love and trust, but when
+once given it is sure and lasting. Often these women have said to me,
+"Why do you love us, Khatoun?" They cannot understand that any one
+should care for them. Such an idea is outside the range of their
+experience altogether. One of the first sentences I learnt in the
+Arabic language was, "Ana ahubkum" (I love you all), and this is
+one of the most useful and necessary phrases to be learnt. Love is
+the magic key which opens a way to the hearts of the Moslem women,
+and which brings forth much fruit in return. It is sad to think that
+these women, who are endowed with such great possibilities of loving,
+should be condemned to live their lives, aye, and die too, without one
+spark of love to brighten and cheer them through the weary years of
+their lives. Sad, too, that their favoured sisters of England should
+be content that these things should remain so. Who is to tell them of
+love if we do not? They know nothing of the God of Love, who looks
+in pity and compassion on their stricken lives. They only know of a
+God who is inexorably hard and unfeeling, who holds the destiny of
+each life in His hand, and against whom it is no use repining, for
+"What is written is written."
+
+Mohammed says in the Koran, "The noblest of you in the sight of God
+is he who most doth fear Him."
+
+Truly has it been said that the God of the Mohammedans is an Oriental
+despot.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+MOSLEM FAMILY LIFE
+
+    No home life--Women down-trodden--Evils of divorce--Naseeb--The
+    will of God--Truth and falsehood--Honesty prevalent--A thief
+    caught--Swearing and anti-swearing--Fighting, hair-tearing,
+    and biting--Hammams, the Ladies' Club.
+
+
+                        "The heart of a woman is given to folly."
+
+                                                         Arabic Proverb.
+
+
+                        "May Allah never bless womankind."
+
+                                           Quotation from Moslem Author.
+
+
+                    "The Very God! think, Abib, dost thou think?
+                    So, the All-Great, were the All-Loving too--
+                    So, through the Thunder comes a human voice
+                    Saying, 'Oh, heart I made, a heart beats here!
+                    Face, my hands fashioned, see it in myself!
+                    Thou hast no power nor mayst conceive of mine,
+                    But love I gave Thee, with Myself to love,
+                    And Thou must love me, who have died for thee.'"
+
+                                                            R. Browning.
+
+
+There is no "home life," such as we understand the term, in Mosul. The
+word "beit" (house) is the only one in the Arabic language used for
+describing a home. It would indeed be mockery to call such by the
+sacred name so dear to the hearts of English people.
+
+In a book lately published in Cairo the author, a well-known and
+clever Moslem writer, says: "Man is the absolute master and woman
+the slave. She is the object of his sensual pleasures, a toy as it
+were with which he plays whenever and however he pleases. Knowledge
+is his, ignorance is hers. The firmament and the light are his,
+darkness and the dungeon are hers. His is to command, hers is blindly
+to obey. His is everything that is, and she is an insignificant part of
+that everything." This being the sentiment of every Moslem man, is it
+any wonder that there is no happiness or mutual regard in the family
+life? The men look upon the women, and treat them, as little better
+than brutes; then when they become so, turn and revile them. They
+keep their heels firmly planted on women's necks and then dare them
+to rise. A man may be as vile as he likes himself, but the moment he
+suspects one of his hareem of misconduct there is nothing but death,
+or mutilation which is worse than death, for the offender.
+
+A woman once came to the hospital who always insisted on keeping
+her face entirely covered with the exception of the eyes; I soon
+found that the reason of this was because her nose and lips were
+missing. These members had been cut off in a rage by an infuriated
+son-in-law, who declared that this woman had intrigued with his wife
+in allowing another man to enter the hareem in his absence. This is
+a husband's ordinary method of wreaking revenge on any of his women
+folk whom he suspects of being false to him. This, or death.
+
+The facility with which a man is able to divorce his wife is a great
+source of trouble to the women. They never feel secure in the hearts
+of their husbands, knowing that at any moment he may tire of them
+and send them adrift.
+
+When a woman is divorced she returns as a rule to her mother's house;
+but should she have no relation at hand to whom she can appeal for
+protection, her condition is deplorably sad.
+
+A man may divorce his wife in a fit of anger and receive her back the
+next day if he so desire; this may occur twice, but if he pronounces
+the fatal words "I divorce thee" three times the divorced wife may
+not be taken back till she has been married to another man for a time
+and he also has divorced her; then her former husband may marry her
+again if he wishes. This is one of the good (?) laws of Mohammed the
+Prophet, and needs no comment.
+
+When a woman is divorced the husband can claim the children if he
+desires; if not, the wife is allowed to retain them. Should she marry
+again the poor children are often left to look after themselves as best
+they can. As a rule the new husband does not wish to bear the expense
+of the children belonging to his wife's former husband. If, however,
+he should consent, and the two families are brought up together, the
+result is generally not conducive to peace of mind. One of our servants
+in Mosul had a little boy five years of age; having divorced the boy's
+mother, he looked about for another wife, and finally selected one
+who had already been divorced and was the mother of a boy four years
+old. The two boys now live together, and are a fruitful source of
+friction between husband and wife. A short time ago the mother came
+to our compound early in the morning looking dishevelled and angry,
+saying that her husband had turned her out of the house at midnight,
+refusing to admit her again. On inquiring into the matter we found
+that the root of the quarrel lay in the fact that the man was jealous
+of his wife's treatment of her own boy, declaring that he had only
+married her to look after his boy. He divorced her; but acting on
+our suggestion forgave, and reinstated her in his hareem.
+
+A short time ago a woman came to me in great distress with her tale of
+sorrow. I had known her for some months, and loved her very much. She
+was the mother of two fine boys and a girl. When the girl was about
+eighteen months old the mother became very ill. The doctor attended
+her for some days, but finally gave up all hope of her recovery. As
+a last resource, however, some stringent means were used which,
+with God's blessing, proved successful, and the woman began to
+recover. So near death had she been, that the neighbours came to the
+house inquiring what time the funeral would take place! The husband, a
+"mullah" (priest), never came near her the whole time of her illness,
+and the first news the poor woman heard on her recovery was that he
+intended taking another wife, doubtless thinking that, after such a
+severe illness, she would not be of much use to him for some long time.
+
+As soon as she could walk she came to tell me her trouble, and to ask
+me what I should advise her to do. I told her that, if I were in her
+place, I should leave the man altogether. This, she said, she could
+not do, as it would mean separation from her children. Finally, she
+concluded that there was nothing else to do but to go back to her
+husband and submit to his will. This she did, and I saw her there
+before we left; but such a different face greeted me to the sweet
+one of old. Misery, discontent, and anger were depicted there instead
+of content and happiness. Up to the time of her illness she had been
+in the habit of frequently coming to see me: now her husband forbade
+her to do so any more. The week before we left, however, she turned
+up again with a bad abscess on her leg, for which she gave continual
+praise to God, saying repeatedly, "Alhamd'llillah. God sent me this
+bad leg in order that I may come to you"--her husband not objecting
+to her coming to the hospital to be treated, but only when she came
+to the house without any apparent reason.
+
+A Moslem woman has very little hope of gaining Paradise. Old
+pictures by Mohammedan artists always represent hell as being full
+of women. Their hope of gaining Paradise rests a great deal on the
+will of their husbands. Some holy men say, "I don't want my wives
+in heaven. I prefer those provided by God for all good Moslems from
+amongst the angels." Yet, if you question the women about their hope
+for the future life, they all fervently express the belief that,
+eventually, they will have a place in Paradise afforded them.
+
+Poor, blind, misguided Moslem women of Mosul and other Mohammedan
+lands! How my heart aches for them! Will no one heed the cry of anguish
+and despair which goes up from their midst? As we think of their lives
+our cry can only be, "How long, O Lord, how long will these things be?"
+
+Women are great believers in the doctrine of Naseeb or fatalism. To
+everything that comes to them they bow their heads in submission and
+say, "Naseeb" (fate).
+
+This doctrine often leads to great neglect of children and invalids,
+the women excusing themselves by saying, "Maktoob" (It is written). It
+often rouses our indignation to hear this oft-quoted word misapplied
+as an excuse for wrongdoing or selfish desires.
+
+For instance, parents will enter into negotiations for the marriage
+of their daughter with a man known to be an evil liver; then,
+when the girl is suffering, maybe, for their sins, say piously,
+"Naseeb--Min Allah" (from God). "Min Allah" indeed! "Min Shaitan"
+(from Satan) would be more correct!
+
+Then, again, it is somewhat annoying to be told it is "the will of God"
+that your horse should develop a cough, because the groom neglected
+to cover him when standing in the rain; or, when your best china
+tea-set is smashed, you would rather not be told it is "Naseeb"!
+
+Albeit this is an annoying doctrine to the European at times, yet it
+certainly helps the Eastern woman to bear her troubles and trials,
+and it is good for her to have this at command, for she has nothing
+else to aid her. To sorrow, loss, bereavement, and all the ills that
+human nature is subject to, the Moslem answers always "Naseeb," or,
+"It is the will of God." Should their children die, or the locusts
+destroy the crop, it is "Naseeb." Is the weather hot or cold, dry or
+moist, the remark is always the same, "Naseeb." If the river water
+is filthy and they choose to drink it, thus contracting typhoid or
+one of the hundred other ills consequent on drinking such water,
+they have only to assure themselves that it is "Naseeb," and there
+remains nothing more to be said or done. It is easier to say "Naseeb"
+than to take the trouble to filter or boil the water for drinking.
+
+In a thousand ways this belief in fatalism is convenient to the lazy
+or careless ones, a help to the over-burdened and weary, who know
+no other succour or helper in time of need or sorrow, while it is,
+in some cases, a blasphemous libel on God, blaming Him for what is
+really a sin wilfully indulged in.
+
+As in Persia, so in Mosul, truth plays little part in the characters
+of some of the people. They have not yet learnt to value God's gift
+as expressed by the poet Browning--
+
+
+        "God's gift was that man should conceive of Truth
+                          And yearn to gain it."
+
+
+It is strange how even the most enlightened find it difficult to speak
+the truth always, and correspondingly easy to tell an untruth. A
+boy was once found out in a fault (quite a trivial one), but, when
+questioned, he absolutely denied all knowledge of it, until he was
+confronted by one who had been an eye-witness of the whole scene. Then
+only did he confess, adding, "I said with my lips I did not do it,
+but in my heart I confessed." What can be said to people whose mind is
+capable of evolving such ideas? We often had to complain of dishonesty
+amongst the hospital women servants, especially of the cook for petty
+thefts, such as eating the patients' food, thus causing them to go
+on short commons, unless I was there to see that each one had his
+or her proper quantity. One day I was crossing the compound before
+superintending the distribution of the evening meal to the in-patients,
+when, as I approached the kitchen, I distinctly saw the cook helping
+herself most liberally to the food out of the pot. On remonstrating
+with her, she indignantly denied that she had ever tasted a morsel,
+until I made her open her mouth and reveal to the amused onlookers
+proof positive of her lies. Even then she was not ashamed, but only
+laughed at the idea of the "khatoun" finding her out.
+
+A woman will bring a child to the dispensary and swear that it is her
+child, all the time knowing that the real mother is waiting outside,
+too ashamed to be seen coming to the poor people's dispensary,
+but not wishing to pay the usual doctor's fee. Or some lady from a
+high-class hareem will dress in her servant's clothes and come to
+the dispensary, posing as a poor woman who cannot afford a piastre
+(2d.) for her medicine!
+
+You get so tired of always hearing lies that you begin to feel it is
+no use to question people at all. I do not wish to imply that there is
+no truth to be found in Mosul; but it certainly is a rare and, when
+found, precious virtue. It is a sad fact, too, that the natives do
+not trust or believe each other, knowing that, given the opportunity,
+a brother will cheat a brother or a son his father. Every one is
+suspicious of his neighbour. On the whole the people are honest,
+at least with the exception of the many trifling pilferings always
+to be expected amongst the servants.
+
+Some of them are rather fond of "eating money" entrusted to their
+care. We had two or three servants who were good at this. They would
+come to me every day with their accounts, receive payment for same,
+but instead of handing over the money to the shopkeeper would calmly
+appropriate it for themselves, till one day the baker or butcher leaves
+a message at the door politely asking to be paid for past favours. Then
+the culprit is sent for, and acknowledges having "eaten the money."
+
+Another servant once tried to steal some dolls from a box lately
+received from England for distribution amongst the in-patients of
+the hospital. He had helped me unpack the box and carry the contents
+to the storeroom, pending the arrival of Christmas Day. A few days
+after I was passing this room, and hearing a rustling inside looked
+to see what it was, but seeing the door still locked thought I must
+have imagined the noise. But just as I was passing on the rustling
+became more distinct, and I went nearer to examine more closely the
+door, and found that, while the lock was still intact, the door had
+been lifted bodily off its hinges and then carefully replaced!
+
+Calling my husband, we entered the room and found a poor frightened
+man trying to hide himself under the pile of paper and sacking which
+had been removed from the box. He was absolutely shaking with fear,
+thinking that he would be bastinadoed (beaten on the feet with sticks)
+or imprisoned. He declared at first that he had come for some string,
+which he had noticed on a shelf, to mend my saddle; but finally
+confessed that the dolls had been the object of his visit. About
+six small ones were found in his pockets; he had wanted them for his
+children. We told him that if he had only asked he should have had
+one given him. I shall never forget his astonishment when my husband
+told him to choose the one he liked best and take it to his little
+girl. He wept for joy and gratitude.
+
+Swearing is very largely indulged in by men and women alike; it seems
+to come as naturally to them as swimming to a duck. Originally the
+words "wallah," "yallah," "billah," were used as swear expressions;
+but are now looked upon more as ejaculations equivalent to our "good
+gracious!" "goodness!" &c.; the real swear words being "wallahi,"
+"billahi," &c. Some of the women cannot keep the expression wallah
+out of their conversation, though I try hard to persuade them to do
+so. For instance, a visitor comes; you remark to her on the extreme
+heat. "Wallah," comes the answer, "it is hot!" Or you inquire after
+some member of her family. "Wallah, she is very ill," is the reply.
+
+I was visiting one day in a Moslem house, and the old mother-in-law
+said to me, "What has happened to X.?" mentioning her daughter-in-law;
+"she never swears now!" I was indeed thankful for this unexpected
+tribute to that woman's efforts. We started an anti-swearing society
+amongst a few of the women; it was quite funny to see how they
+endeavoured to keep back the old familiar words which had been on
+their lips since childhood.
+
+One little boy joined with the women, and he found it hardest of
+all; but when we left he was still persevering. He learnt the Ten
+Commandments by heart, so whenever I heard him use a swear word I
+made him repeat the third commandment.
+
+The women are terribly fond of couching their denials in the form
+of oaths, as "May my hand be broken," "May I become blind," "May my
+interior become dried up if I did such and such a thing!" It makes
+me shiver sometimes to hear them swearing to a lie in this way;
+and I often tell them that if God only took them at their word,
+they would be stricken blind many times over.
+
+It is not an unknown thing for women to resort occasionally to fighting
+as a pastime, but I am thankful to say I have not seen much of it. A
+woman came to the Dispensary once with a fearful-looking hand: the
+thumb was about six times its normal size and had become gangrenous. My
+husband said the only possible cure was amputation; to this the woman
+would not consent. She said that a short time before she had been
+fighting with another woman, who had bitten her thumb in her fury. I
+asked this woman what she had done to her opponent. "Oh," she said,
+"I only pulled out her hair!"
+
+Another woman once brought me quite a handful of hair to show,
+which she declared her husband had just pulled out of her head in his
+anger; while he at the same time exhibited several ugly wounds on his
+hand caused by his wife's teeth! The man vowed he would divorce her,
+refusing to listen to any suggestions as to forgiveness, saying, "What
+would my neighbours say of me if I kept for my wife a woman who would
+do that?" pointing to the bites on his hand. However, in the end he
+did consent to take her back, being on the whole an amicably disposed
+man. Can we wonder that these things should happen when neither the
+men nor the women have ever learnt to control their passions? We
+have glanced at the lives of the Moslem women of Mosul. Can we say
+that they lead an ennobling, beautiful life? Are the home influences
+such as to foster a happy, peaceful spirit? On the contrary, we have
+seen that a woman deserves our pity and sympathy for all the sorrow
+she has to endure.
+
+Have we not seen that at birth she is unwelcome, as a child uncared-for
+and untaught, as a young woman imprisoned behind the veil, as a wife
+unloved, as a mother unhonoured; and when her weary life draws to
+a close she knows that she will go to her grave unmourned. Such in
+brief outline is the life of a Moslem woman.
+
+A woman's one place of recreation is the hammam. It is indeed a
+kind of ladies' club; here she throws away for the time being all
+her home worries and troubles, enjoying thoroughly her few hours of
+liberty. As a rule the bath takes at least two hours, and often half
+a day, if the woman has no special demands on her time. She generally
+goes in the morning, taking with her a complete change of raiment,
+a mat to sit upon in the cooling chamber, and plenty of towels,
+also some food to be partaken of after the exertions of the bath are
+over. I once went to one of these hammams, but the heat was so intense
+that I could only stand it for a few minutes. I often wonder how ever
+the women can exist in such great heat for so long; I suppose it is
+because they are used to it. Many illnesses date from a visit to the
+hammam; but still they would not give it up for any consideration,
+thinking it quite impossible to take a bath in the house. Certainly
+the Turkish bath is much cleaner than the Persian one. In the latter
+a large tank is used, and as it costs a good deal to warm up, the
+water is not changed very often. In the Turkish hammam each person
+has a tap for herself, from which flows presumably clean water. As
+a matter of fact sometimes this water has already been used, but
+only in the cheaper hammams. The most expensive baths have river
+water brought up for the purpose; in the others well water is used,
+and as this is brackish and very hard it is impossible to use soap,
+for it will not lather; therefore a special kind of earth is used,
+which is said to be very good for washing the hair with.
+
+When Judy, our woman servant, returns from the bath, she always comes
+and gives me a kiss, this being their custom, and we exchange the
+salutations usual upon any one returning from the hammam.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+CUSTOMS OF MOSUL
+
+    Wedding ceremonies--Great expense to parents--Method of
+    procedure--Funeral customs--Customs at birth--Some other customs.
+
+
+                           "The bridegroom's doors are open wide,
+                            And I am next of kin;
+                            The guests are met, the feast is set;
+                            May'st hear the merry din."
+
+                                                        S. T. Coleridge.
+
+
+We have seen that a wedding is a very expensive matter in Mosul,
+especially to parents who possess three or four daughters; for
+unless the necessary gold, jewellery, and clothing are forthcoming
+as a dowry, the marriage will never take place. For this reason a
+man with a number of daughters will begin saving for their marriage
+portion and expenses while the girl is yet a baby, and the mothers
+will often commence gathering together clothing even before the child
+is betrothed, so that they may be better prepared for the expensive
+event when it does take place.
+
+Then, too, not only is there the outlay for the dowry and clothing,
+but also for the feasting of some hundreds, it maybe, of guests during
+the seven days following the marriage. A man of very fair means in
+Mosul once told me that the marriage of his daughters cost him at
+least £200 each, and as he had seven daughters the sum total required
+was not small. If this man with a good income found it hard work to
+produce the necessary cash, how much harder is it for those who have
+no settled income, or whose earnings are small. For instance, a native
+Christian whom we respected and liked very much had two daughters;
+both were betrothed and ready to be married. He was earning about
+£3 a month, and had a wife and six children to support--how could he
+provide all the necessary gold and other ornaments for his girls? And
+yet, if he did not, in all probability his daughters would never be
+married. There was only one way out of the difficulty, and that was
+to borrow at high interest, crippling himself for many years to come,
+perhaps for the rest of his life. Instances might be multiplied, but I
+think enough has been said to show that girls are expensive luxuries
+in Mosul as regards their weddings! Now as to the "preparations"
+for the great and eventful day.
+
+When a man makes up his mind to be married, or his parents decide in
+their minds that it is high time their son should take to himself a
+wife, many are the consultations which take place, and great is the
+importance of the women folk concerned. They are never so happy as
+when arranging for a marriage, loving the mystery and secrecy of it;
+for it would never do for a fond mother to offer the hand of her dear
+son in marriage to the mother of a possible bride and be refused. The
+shame and ignominy would be too great; so the mother and other female
+relations of the would-be bridegroom have to go very carefully to work
+in selecting the girl and in making any proposal for marriage. Before
+the actual "asking" is done, the way has to be prepared by very careful
+hints and indirect inquiries as to the girl's health, accomplishments,
+and dowry.  If all proves satisfactory, then a formal proposal is
+made. The matter having gone so far, a refusal is very unusual, and,
+if given, is considered a great insult. I heard of one young man who
+threatened to murder all the relations of a girl for whom he had made
+proposals of marriage upon her parents refusing to accept his offer.
+
+I have often been asked by Moslem women to suggest some girl as
+a suitable bride either for their brother or son. On mentioning
+some girls whom I knew, their answers were something as follows:
+"Oh, but she has a white patch on her eye," or "She is too poor," or
+"She has a bad temper," or "She is not pretty." Their idea of beauty
+is that of a white, pasty, fat face, without a vestige of colour,
+except that which art applies! Of course, the man never sees the girl
+till the day of betrothal, and in the case of Moslems not till the
+actual marriage takes place. The old custom amongst the Christians of
+marrying a girl against her will is still extant in some villages.
+Sometimes it happens that a girl persists in her dislike to marry,
+even till the priest has arrived to tie the knot: in this case the
+father would bind the girl's arms and legs till the marriage ceremony
+was completed, when she was released, it being useless then for further
+resistance on her part. This is done even now in some villages near
+Mosul when the girl proves obstinate. As a rule, though, they accept
+their fate as "Naseeb," knowing it is little or no use to struggle
+against custom. How often my heart aches for some poor child who is
+bound to a man old enough to be her grandfather or great-grandfather
+sometimes. Alas, too often old in sin as well as years!
+
+When the day of the marriage approaches, invitations are sent out to
+all friends and relations for the specified days of feasting. First
+comes the day for taking the bride to the bath--this is considered a
+great function; then follows a week of excitement, dancing, singing,
+feasting, all forming part of the great event. All thoroughly enjoy
+themselves, even those who have to work the hardest in preparing the
+food. The guests are expected to remain from morning till sunset. Three
+meals are provided each day, the morning one consisting of bread,
+cream, butter, fruit, &c.; the midday meal is a substantial one of
+meat, cooked in various ways, rice, chicken, and vegetables according
+to the season. The evening meal is also a very heavy one, causing
+the guests to depart perfectly satisfied both with their dinner
+and themselves.
+
+During the whole of the week the poor bride has to sit in the reception
+room on a cushion specially prepared for brides, and takes no part in
+the surrounding gaieties. Each day she appears in a fresh silk dress,
+and is often covered with golden jewellery. She is not supposed
+to speak till spoken to, and the guests do not take much notice of
+her beyond the usual kiss of salutation. At meal times she is "fed"
+by her relations, a bride being supposed to be too overcome to help
+herself or eat without assistance.
+
+After the days of feasting are over, the bride takes her place in
+the house as "servant" to her mother-in-law. In a Moslem house the
+youngest and latest bride always becomes the servant of all for the
+first year of married life, or till another and younger one is brought
+to the home. Much depends on the mother-in-law's character as to the
+happiness or otherwise of the inmates of the hareem. If they wish,
+they can make the lives of the young wives perfectly miserable,
+or the reverse.
+
+The same custom of feasting for a certain number of days takes
+place too in connection with funerals. The guests who come to mourn
+sit in solemn silence all day long; their mourning does not lessen
+their appetite, however, for they thoroughly enjoy their "feast"
+of sorrow. After a death, the "wailers" are brought in. I went once
+to a Christian house of mourning to see these wailing women. It
+was a ghastly sight. The professional wailers sat on the ground in
+the centre of the relations and guests, and worked themselves and
+others into such a frenzy that I thought some would have fainted from
+exhaustion; slapping their knees, tearing their hair and clothes,
+till they resembled maniacs more than women.
+
+A short time ago a very sad and sudden death took place in Mosul in
+a house very close to us. We were awakened one night, while sleeping
+on the roof, by hearing the terrible wailing sounds coming from our
+neighbour's house. At the same time a messenger arrived in great haste,
+asking my husband to go at once to see the patient, as his relatives
+were not sure if he was dead or only in a fit. He had been out during
+the night to some Moslem religious function, and died quite suddenly
+on his return.
+
+The wailing went on in the hareem for seven days, and was terrible
+to hear. The sound of the weird wailing of some hundred women is
+perfectly indescribable, always ending up with a piercing shriek
+which seems to rend the air and freeze one's blood.
+
+Being friends and neighbours, I paid daily visits to the mourners
+during that week, but did not sit amongst the guests, preferring to
+spend the time with the sisters of the deceased in a quiet room above
+the din and uproar of the courtyard. The wailing has such a hopeless
+sound, as of a lost soul in anguish. One longed for them to know of
+Jesus the Living One, and of the time when partings shall be no more.
+
+After death has visited a family, the whole house in which the departed
+one lived is not swept for three days: this is because they believe
+that the angel of death is still hovering near, and they fear lest,
+while they are sweeping, others of the household may be swept from
+the house by the angel. So the house becomes very dirty, the carpets
+covered with cigarette ash and ends, but nothing can be touched till
+the third day is safely passed.
+
+Amongst the Christians it is also the custom after the death of a
+relative, not to go to the hammam (bath) for six months, and for
+the men to go unshaven for at least six weeks. The women are very
+particular about not going to the hammam while mourning, as I found
+to my sorrow. Our woman servant Judy lost her father just before she
+entered our service, and she allowed a whole year to elapse before she
+could be prevailed upon to go to the bath. They are very particular,
+too, about wearing "deep" clothing--that is, dresses of some dark
+colour, not necessarily black.
+
+I am sure that the custom of burying a few hours after death is often
+the cause of many people being buried alive. I have often been regaled
+by an old woman with horrible stories of how some friends of hers
+have just escaped being buried alive. For those who providentially
+escape being entombed alive one is thankful; but what of the many who
+most certainly are condemned to this awful fate. It is too terrible
+to contemplate. In a land where no medical certificates are required,
+and where the body is carried to the cemetery almost before it is cold,
+how can it be otherwise?
+
+But to proceed to other and more pleasing customs--let us pass
+from death to life. When a child is born in Mosul, whether Moslem
+or Christian, the first idea of the parents is to protect the child
+from the baneful influence of the Evil Eye. The usual custom is to
+thread a gall, and suspend it round the neck of the infant. Moslems
+enclose a portion of the Koran in a little bag, and fasten that round
+the arm of the child or sew it on to the cap. The custom of wearing
+charms to avert the Evil Eye is very prevalent, and deeply rooted in
+the minds of the Mosul people.
+
+The kissing of hands is a very pretty custom. Children are all taught
+to do this even before they can speak or walk. Servants are always very
+anxious to kiss your hands after they have done something especially
+annoying or irritating. They make a grab for your hand, and kiss it
+before you realise what they are doing. In this way they secure your
+forgiveness before the fault is confessed. I am getting more wary now,
+and prefer to hear first what they have done before letting them kiss
+my hand. It is also a sign of gratitude. Upon receiving any backsheesh
+or present, the recipient is always ready to kiss your hand. Sometimes,
+when riding through the city, I have had my hand grasped and kissed
+by some passer-by who has been an in-patient in the hospital, and
+wished to show his gratitude in this way. It requires a great deal
+of gratitude or love for a man to kiss a woman's hand, so, when by
+chance it does occur, I feel very much honoured indeed.
+
+There is one custom which is often the cause of a great deal of
+heartburning, even as it was in the days of Haman and Mordecai. It is
+usual for a host or hostess to rise from their seat upon the arrival
+of each guest--that is, if they desire to do honour to that person. As
+a rule this custom is most carefully adhered to, but it lends itself
+admirably to any one wishing to be rude to his guest or to shame him
+before his friends. Fortunately, this is not often the case, but when
+it does happen one feels very uncomfortable. There is one dear old lady
+in Mosul, who thinks it beneath her dignity to rise to a Feringhi. But,
+perhaps, it is excusable for her as she is a Hadji--that is, one who
+has made the pilgrimage to Mecca, and, consequently, is treated as
+an exalted being by all her friends and relations.
+
+A rather quaint and pleasing custom in Mosul is that of sending trays
+containing a dinner all ready cooked and dished to new-comers, or to
+those returning after a long period of absence. We did not know of
+this custom when first we went to Mosul, so were very surprised at
+sunset on our second day after arrival to see two or three men coming
+into the compound carrying huge trays on their heads. They explained
+that their master, a Moslem merchant, had sent this meal, with many
+salaams and good wishes. It was a dinner large enough for twenty
+people, so we gathered together all we could find on the premises,
+assistants, catechist, and others, who had been kindly helping us
+to settle down. Spreading some Persian carpets in the courtyard,
+we sat down and thoroughly enjoyed our first Arab meal in Mosul.
+
+When any one is leaving the place or starting on a journey,
+it is customary for the people to send in large trays containing
+sweetmeats, cakes, and other eatables suitable for taking with you on
+the road. When we were leaving Mosul, we received quite a large number
+of these trays--so many, indeed, that at the end of our fourteen days
+of desert we still had a good many of their contents remaining. Some
+of these were made of almonds pounded and mixed with sugar; others
+were made from puff pastry sandwiched with honey: these latter were
+especially nice.
+
+Distributing food to the poor as a mark of gratitude and thankfulness
+is another of Mosul's good customs. After recovering from a dangerous
+illness, it is usual to make and distribute a large quantity of bread,
+baked in a special way, and flavoured with caraway seeds.
+
+The birth of a son and heir is also celebrated by a generous and
+lavish distribution of meat and bread. When starting on a journey,
+too, it is usual to give away to the poor either money or food. On
+every occasion of life which calls for gratitude to God, this custom
+of presenting offerings to the poor is carried out. One dear woman,
+a friend of mine, went even further than this. It was thought at
+one time that we should be leaving Mosul for good, the Mission
+being withdrawn. Providentially, this was over-ruled, and when the
+news arrived from England that the Mission was to be kept on, great
+were the rejoicings amongst the people. The woman mentioned above
+immediately desired to show her thankfulness to God in a very special
+way, so spent one whole day in making a large supply of small loaves
+of bread, not to distribute to the poor, but to feed the hungry,
+starving dogs of the streets. This by a Moslem woman was, indeed,
+a work of love, dogs being looked upon as unclean beasts. Surely she
+"that loveth much shall be forgiven much."
+
+Coffee-making and drinking is associated very much with life in
+Mosul. It is the custom there to give every one who comes to the house
+a cup of Arab coffee. This meant sometimes for us giving at least
+200 cups in a day. Not only those who come as social visitors receive
+the coffee, but also all who come to the house on whatever pretext,
+whether for meetings, classes, or what not. At feast times one servant
+is always told off to do nothing else but prepare the coffee for the
+guests. On each of the great feasts, such as Christmas and Easter, it
+is the custom for every one to call, Moslems and Christians alike. At
+Christmas the feast lasts for three days, and at Easter a week,
+the whole of which time coffee must be ready to be handed at once to
+every caller; also a tray of sweets, consisting of Turkish delight,
+almond sugar, and other Mosul-made confections.
+
+When a house is "mourning," bitter coffee is given to all callers
+for six months, and on the first day of each feast for a whole year.
+
+I do not think I have ever visited a Moslem house, however poor,
+without receiving either a cup of coffee or some sweets. I often
+beg them not to make preparations for me, but they always insist,
+as their hospitable instincts are very strong. Indeed, more often
+than not, they set before me not only coffee or sweets, but meat,
+fruit, and lebban (sour milk).
+
+A true Arab of the desert takes about an hour to make a cup of
+coffee. First of all the coffee has to be roasted, then ground to
+powder, and, lastly, boiled. The Arabs never sweeten their coffee,
+sugar not being a commodity of the desert.
+
+I once heard the recipe for making Arab or Turkish coffee. Perhaps
+some readers may like to try their hand at making it.
+
+First roast the coffee to a rich brown, neither too light nor too
+dark, then grind it to a soft powder. Now comes the art of making
+good coffee. Half-fill the pot with cold water; bring it to boiling
+point. Throw in a handful of powdered coffee; allow it to boil; shake
+down and bring it to the boil again. Repeat this process three times,
+and the coffee is ready. Specially note: Never wash the pot! Needless
+to say, this last injunction I do not carry out, but the servants quite
+believe in that part of the recipe. It is only with great difficulty
+I can persuade them to wash out the coffee-pot occasionally.
+
+In summer, this reluctance on their part often leads to serious
+complications. The kitchen, as may be supposed, is not a very cool
+place during the hot season, consequently it suffers continually
+from a plague of flies. Dead flies are often served up in puddings
+and other dishes, to act presumably as an appetiser! Then eating
+requires a great effort. The coffee-pot seems to serve as a trap for
+many of these flies, attracted no doubt by the sugar, and there they
+find a coffee grave. Suddenly a visitor is announced, and the message
+is conveyed to the kitchen to "Send coffee at once." The cook seizes
+the pot, never looking to see how many victims are struggling in the
+dregs at the bottom, adds a little freshly-ground coffee, boils it
+up, and sends it in to the visitor served in dainty little cups. The
+visitor takes one sip, and...! I will draw a veil over the sequel. A
+mouthful of dead flies is not a very palatable drink. My feelings
+may be better imagined than described.
+
+Sometimes a guest does not approve of the way the coffee is made
+(even when minus flies); if so, she is not shy, and does not hesitate
+to hand it back with a grimace, saying to your servant: "What horrid
+coffee! why do you not make better?" and often demands another cup
+properly made.
+
+A visit to the bread-makers may not be out of place here. It is
+the custom amongst some of the people to bake bread once a month,
+sufficient to last that length of time. Baking-day is a day to
+be dreaded. The process begins soon after midnight, when the woman
+arrives to prepare the flour and "set" the dough for rising. The whole
+of that day every woman on the premises is pressed into service--one
+to make the dough into little cakes, another gives it a preliminary
+roll, then hands it to her neighbour, who uses a smaller roller, and
+finally hands it on to some one else to finish it off. When completed,
+the bread is about as thin as note-paper and as large round as a
+child's wooden hoop. The bread is now ready to be baked. The fuel
+used for heating the oven is chopped straw and goats' dung, which
+is burnt till the required heat is obtained; then these large thin
+pieces of bread are plastered to the sides of the oven, and removed
+as they are browned to an exact nicety. This bread is very nice when
+fresh and crisp; when stale, it is generally soaked in water before
+being brought to the table.
+
+We do not make our bread in this way. I tried it once for the hospital
+in-patients, but found it took far too much time. The daily baking
+is much more suitable when from thirty to forty people have to be
+fed daily.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+DREAMS AND VISIONS
+
+    Ezekiel's vision by the river Chebar--Our vision by the river
+    Khabour--Rivers identical--"A wheel within a wheel"--Babylonish
+    emblem of divinity--Origin of the cherubim--Dream of a woman
+    suffering from cataract--Effect of dream on her character--Watch
+    and chain recovered by means of a "faked" dream--Illustration
+    of the doctrine of Kismet or Naseeb--"Ghosts" in our
+    compound--Atmosphere of ghosts bad for fowls.
+
+
+                    "O dreamer, dream thy dream, and dream it true.
+
+                                                       Sir Lewis Morris.
+
+
+                    "Did not Heaven speak to men in dreams of old?"
+
+                                                          Lord Tennyson.
+
+
+                                    "... The vision of my soul
+                    Has looked upon its Sun and turns no more
+                          To any lower light."
+
+                                                       Sir Lewis Morris.
+
+
+Dreams and visions have a great influence on the Eastern mind. They
+believe most firmly that God often speaks by means of these agencies,
+using them as a warning of impending danger, or as a voice of
+instruction.
+
+Ezekiel was no exception to this rule, for we read in the words of
+his prophecy, "That the heavens were opened, and I saw visions of
+God." This vision was given to him as he stood by the river Chebar
+in the land of the Chaldeans. The river Chebar is none other than the
+Khabour, over which we have passed more than once in our "journeyings
+oft." When on our way back to England we crossed this river, and
+as we sat near its banks, even as Ezekiel did of old, we too were
+vouchsafed a "vision of God."
+
+We had travelled through a weary stretch of waterless desert that
+day, and were rejoicing in the fact that our camping-ground for the
+night was by the banks of a river--the Chebar. Only those who have
+journeyed for days through a parched-up desert land can tell the joy
+with which a river is sighted. We experienced something of that joy
+on the evening when we saw water for the first time for two or three
+days. We pitched our camp as close to the river as possible, and,
+sitting at our tent door, prepared to enjoy to the full the beauties
+before us. Looking up I saw in front of me a glorious sight. I quickly
+called my husband, and together we stood and watched this wonderful
+vision. The sun was sinking as a ball of fire behind the river, when
+suddenly from its centre there arose beautiful prismatic lights. These
+gradually resolved themselves into the form of a huge wheel, each
+spoke of the wheel being of a different colour, merging gradually
+and almost imperceptibly into the next, as in the rainbow. Within
+this "wheel" was another and smaller one, also composed of the same
+prismatic hues. The outer circle of each wheel was formed by a band of
+bright opaque light. On the top of these wheels was a visionary form
+resembling the beginning of another wheel, but it was too indistinct
+for me to say what definite shape it possessed. At either side of
+these wheels was a large wing, as it were overshadowing the wheels;
+these were also of a bright white. The whole formed a most wonderful
+and never to be forgotten sight, and we felt indeed that this was a
+vision of God.
+
+While in Mosul my husband had received a letter from a gentleman in
+England, asking him to keep a look-out for any such phenomenon as
+this. On reaching home it was interesting to find on good authority
+that the sight we had seen on the banks of the Khabour was one of
+historical interest. The form of the wheels is almost identical with
+the emblem which the Babylonians adopted to represent Divinity. On
+the same authority I learnt, too, that in all probability a vision
+similar to this was the origin of the cherubims. It is believed by
+an expert on the subject that the whole of the "vision" is caused by
+atmospheric influences, the sun acting on the particles of frost in
+the air, thus forming the prismatic colours. Be this as it may, the
+result was truly marvellous, and we were thankful that we had been
+privileged to see "the heavens open," revealing this vision of God.
+
+The whole spectacle could not have lasted more than five minutes,
+but the sky retained its blaze of colour for about a quarter of an
+hour after; then darkness covered the heavens.
+
+The natives of Mosul are great believers in dreams, and accept
+them as good or bad omens. A short time ago a Moslem woman came
+to the Dispensary suffering from double cataract. She had been
+quite blind for many years, and was very anxious for an operation,
+saying if only she could have enough sight to sweep the compound
+she would be satisfied, as then she could earn her livelihood. The
+doctor, after examining her eyes, told the woman that he could not
+promise her a good result from the operation, as her eyes were not
+healthy. However, as she was absolutely blind, it was worth while
+to try, and perhaps she might see sufficiently afterwards to find
+her way about. Accordingly she was admitted to the Hospital to
+await her time for operation. She was a very affectionate woman,
+and seemed to be gifted with great powers of intuition. When I went
+to the door of the ward, even before I spoke, she always called out,
+"There's my khatoun!" Sometimes I crept in quietly just to see if she
+would know I was present; she almost invariably did, and sitting up in
+bed would listen intently, and then say to one of the other patients,
+"Is not the khatoun here?" Then when she felt my hand, she would grasp
+it and say, "I knew it, I knew it; I felt here" (pointing to her heart)
+"that my khatoun was in the room!" She was such an excitable woman
+that my husband feared that she would do something foolish either at
+the time of the operation or after. He warned her that if she did not
+keep quiet she might lose her eye altogether; but as the fateful day
+approached she became more and more nervous. One morning, however,
+she appeared quite calm, and hastened to tell us the reason of her
+peace of mind. During the night she had seen a vision which had
+quieted all her fears and made her trustful and believing.
+
+In her dream she seemed to be walking in the desert, where she met
+a mullah, who immediately began to revile and curse her. While he
+was thus engaged the woman saw a form coming towards her which she
+knew to be that of our Lord (Jesus the Living One, as He is called
+in Arabic). He began to speak gently to the woman, asking her why
+she was weeping; she replied by telling our Lord that the mullah
+had been cursing her. In her dream she then saw (although blind)
+that our Lord turned to the mullah and rebuked him for cursing the
+woman. Then turning to the wondering woman, He said, "Do not weep,
+my daughter, for the English doctor is going to give you sight in
+a few days," and then He left her. She awoke firmly convinced that
+this was a special revelation from God through Jesus our Lord to
+assure her that her eyesight was to be restored. From that time she
+was perfectly calm and quiet, and remained so the whole time she was
+in the hospital. The day before the operation she was again warned
+that she might not see any better after; but she smiled and said,
+"To-morrow I shall see!" Her faith was rewarded, as the operation
+was successful, and after two or three weeks she went out with very
+good vision in one eye, and she is waiting for our return to have
+the other operated upon.
+
+My husband was once travelling "chappa" (post) in Persia from Yezd to
+Kerman, when one evening he found to his great sorrow that he had lost
+his gold watch and chain. Both were very valuable to him on account
+of their associations, so he was very sad at the thought of losing
+them. The same night he met another Englishman who was returning to
+Yezd. He told him of his loss, and asked him to make inquiries along
+the road, offering a reward to any one who would bring back his watch
+and chain. His friend promised to do all he could, and, calling his
+servant, explained to him about the loss, and told him to keep a sharp
+look-out for any news of the lost goods. This servant was a very smart
+man. The next morning they met a camel caravan on the road to Kerman,
+and the servant went up to the driver and said to him--
+
+"Oh, my noble brother, may your kindness never grow less; my sleep
+has been troubled last night by dreams of you."
+
+"Estakfarullah!" (God forbid), says the camel-driver. "Why was my
+lord's sleep disturbed by dreams of me, who am not worthy?"
+
+"Yes; I saw in my dream that you stooped and picked up something."
+
+"Then your dream was wrong," hastily interposed the camel-driver,
+"for I have picked up nothing."
+
+"And lo! in my dream," continued the wily servant, "I saw that the
+thing which you picked up was worthless, only a cheap thing which will
+bring you no gain." The camel-driver here looking sad, the servant
+continued: "But the owner of that worthless thing is very anxious to
+find it, as although of no value in money, yet he cherishes it as a
+thing he loves."
+
+"But I told you," repeats the camel-driver, "that I never picked
+up anything."
+
+"Then in my dream," continues the servant, carefully ignoring the
+reiterated denial of the camel-driver, "I saw you glance at this
+useless object in your hand and then place it inside your aba" (cloak).
+
+"No, no," cries the driver, "I never picked it up."
+
+"So if you will let me show you where it is, I can relieve you of
+this worthless object."
+
+After a little more parleying of this sort, the camel-driver
+produces my husband's watch and chain, and receives in return a
+small backsheesh. The servant, highly delighted with himself and his
+sagacity, smiled as he pockets in imagination the promised reward of
+five tomans (£1). The camel-driver confessed afterwards that he was
+so taken aback at the idea of his deeds being revealed in a dream to
+this man that he would not have kept the watch at any cost.
+
+Needless to say the "dream" was only a faked one, manufactured to
+work on the superstitious mind of the simple camel-driver.
+
+In Mosul the chief of the Seyyids once told the doctor a story relating
+to a remarkable dream. It was as follows. Two men once called on a
+mullah to question him regarding a matter which had been troubling
+them. The cause of their dispute was this. On going to their work
+each day these men passed a ladder leaning against a wall. One of
+the two always avoided going under lest it should fall and kill him;
+while the other said, "No, I will not run from danger, for whatever
+Allah has decreed must be. If it is written that I am to be killed
+by the ladder, I shall be." So the two friends, after having spent
+much time in arguing this knotty question, decided to lay the matter
+before a mullah and leave the decision to him. The mullah listened
+to them both, but told them that such a serious question needed
+much thought. He appointed a day for them to return and hear his
+verdict. After their departure the mullah fell into a sleep, and in
+his sleep he dreamed. In the dream he beheld a beautiful boy, the
+son of a king whom his soul loved exceedingly; then later he met a
+stranger, who told him that he (the mullah) was to cause the death
+of the boy he loved so much. The mullah, filled with indignation,
+repudiated the idea, saying that he loved the boy too much to do
+him any harm. "Nevertheless," said the stranger, "it must be, for
+Allah has decreed that the boy is to meet his death through you, and
+what is written is written." The old mullah returned to his house
+troubled and sad at heart, but determined that he would do nothing
+that could in any way bring disaster to the boy. Still dreaming,
+the mullah received a summons to visit the young prince. Remembering
+the words of the stranger, he took with him nothing that could in any
+way injure the boy, contenting himself by taking with him one gift
+only--an apple. The boy received the mullah in his beautiful island
+home, and the two enjoyed some blissful hours of converse together.
+
+Finally, ere saying farewell, the old man with extended hands presented
+the apple to the boy, who gladly accepted it, and proposed eating it at
+once. The mullah, taking a penknife from his inner pocket, peeled the
+apple, and returned it on the point of the knife to the young prince,
+who, boylike, grasped it eagerly. In taking the apple the point of
+the knife pricked the finger of the lad, with the result that blood
+poisoning set in, and in a short time the beautiful boy lay dead. The
+mullah in his sorrow wept aloud, and as he wept he awoke. With humble
+heart and head bowed in submission, he gave glory to Allah.
+
+On the day appointed the two men returned to hear the verdict of the
+wise mullah. He received them kindly, but sorrowfully, assuring them
+that it made not the slightest difference whether they walked under
+the ladder or not.
+
+"For," said the old man, "if it is written that you are to be killed
+by a ladder falling upon you, it must be so, you cannot escape. What
+Allah has written must be fulfilled. His designs cannot be frustrated."
+
+This doctrine, taught to the old mullah by means of his dream, is
+very prominent in the minds of all Moslems to-day.
+
+When in Persia we had an Indian servant who was a Mohammedan. He told
+us that three times on successive nights our Lord had appeared to
+him in a dream, in the form of an old man with a long white beard. So
+struck was he with the persistency of the dream, that he went to an
+English clergyman, asking to be taught the Christian religion.
+
+The women in Mosul have often told me of wonderful things which they
+declared were going to happen to me, as had been revealed to them in
+dreams. Even now I receive letters from some of these women in which
+they say, "We see you every night in our dreams."
+
+The first women in-patients in our so-called hospital in Mosul had to
+be content with a kind of outhouse for their ward. The only place we
+could find for them which would be hareem was a large room which we
+used as a wood-house. This my husband had whitewashed and thoroughly
+cleansed and disinfected. The first unfortunate woman to be put in
+this ward (?) was a very quiet, gentle Moslem woman, who came for an
+operation. Her mother came with her to look after her, and these two
+were alone in their none too comfortable quarters.
+
+Two or three days after the operation, these women declared that in
+the night a huge form of dragon-like appearance rose from the ground
+at their side!
+
+Some weeks later this ward was occupied by a little Jewish girl who
+had been terribly burnt, her mother and grandmother looking after
+her. There were also two or three other women in the ward. One morning
+very early, word was brought to us that all the inmates of that room
+had been terribly frightened in the night. On going out to see what
+had happened, we found them all lying in the passage, having carried
+their bedding out of the room. They were looking very unhappy and
+frightened, and requested to be allowed to leave the hospital at once,
+saying they would not pass another night in that awful place. Then
+they all began to recount their experiences of the night at the same
+time, so it was with great difficulty we could find out what really
+had happened. It seems that soon after midnight they were talking
+to one another, when suddenly they saw two soldiers sitting on the
+edge of their bedsteads. Terribly alarmed, they asked the men however
+they came to be there--did they not know it was "hareem"? At first the
+soldiers remained silent, but afterwards told the women that they had
+come from a village about twelve miles off. That they had been told
+in a dream to come to the beit hakeem Engelisi (house of the English
+doctor). In obedience to this command they had come. Then, as suddenly
+as they had arrived, they disappeared. The women, of course, were all
+fearfully alarmed, some believing that they were real soldiers, others
+that they were genii in the form of soldiers. They immediately left
+the room, carrying their bedding with them, and spent the rest of the
+night in fear and trembling. The next morning we made a very careful
+examination of the roof, to see if by any possible means soldiers could
+have entered our compound. We found that next door was the house of
+the head of the soldiers, and it was possible that some of his guard
+might have found their way over the walls and down to our house.
+
+Nothing, however, was ever proved; but no one could ever be induced
+to use that room again, the women declaring that it was haunted by
+evil spirits. Finally, we made it into a hen-house; but the fowls
+and turkeys all sickened and died, so there evidently was something
+very wrong with the atmosphere of that room! Our first attempt at a
+women's ward was certainly a failure, but "it is an ill wind that
+blows nobody any good," and so good came out of this evil. As the
+women would not use the haunted (?) room, other accommodation had to
+be found, so we gave up our house for them, while we moved into the
+one next door--the room which was neither good for human beings nor
+for feathered fowls being now used as a wood-house.
+
+Once when travelling in the desert, a spot was pointed out to us as
+being the abode of Jinns and Genii. This spot is much abhorred by
+the muleteers, as they believe that any one camping on that ground
+is liable to be overtaken by a terrible death. The enchanted ground
+is encircled by some landmarks, and it is said that any one going to
+sleep within that magic circle will at once be visited by the Jinns
+inhabiting the spot, who will immediately come and suck his blood
+till he is dead.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+MANNERS AND SUPERSTITIONS IN MOSUL
+
+    Characteristics of inhabitants of Mosul--Social habits--Love of
+    drink--An effectual cure--Gambling--Tel Kaif: a story of Uncle
+    Goro--The Angel of Death and other titles--Difficulties over name
+    and age--Some superstitions--Effect of scent on women--Birds
+    of good omen--Thieves--Sheep-killing--Sheikh Matti--An angel's
+    visit--Medical superstitions--Cure for hydrophobia.
+
+
+            "Nothing has more effect upon the mob than superstition."
+
+                                                        Quintus Curtius.
+
+
+                                    "To be superstitious is a crime."
+
+                                                                   Anon.
+
+
+    "Sickness and sorrow come and go, but a superstitious soul hath
+    no rest."
+
+                                                              R. Burton.
+
+
+The natives of Mosul are, as a rule, a very simple-hearted
+folk. They are easily amused, easily taken in, and as easily roused
+to passion. They are, on the whole, good-tempered and patient, and,
+considering the absolute lack of self-control in their method of
+bringing up, they give way far less to their passions than might
+be expected.
+
+They dearly love social habits, and spend much time in company, telling
+and listening to stories, smoking, and drinking coffee. Unfortunately,
+they do not confine their drink to coffee, and these social habits
+often lead to a great deal of drinking. Arak is the favourite
+refreshment at these times, and is indulged in by both Christian and
+Moslem alike. It is a pure spirit, and is made by the Christians
+and Jews of Mosul, and sold by them to the Moslems. No ceremony
+is complete without the arak bottle. At weddings, funerals, dinner
+parties, at each and every season of life, it is thought necessary to
+provide this fire-water. I am sorry to say that the women also drink,
+but not to such an extent as the men.
+
+It is, of course, considered a great sin for a Moslem to drink either
+wine or spirit, as both have been forbidden in the Koran: but their
+love for the arak is stronger in many cases than their love of the
+Koran. A Mosul Moslem woman told me a short time ago that she did
+not think there was one Moslem man in Mosul who did not drink either
+wine or arak. I hope this is an exaggeration, but the tendency to be
+less ashamed of the drinking habit and to indulge in it more freely
+is growing more and more. It is sad to think that the Christians
+of the city are the manufacturers and vendors of spirit and wines,
+and that they are responsible for introducing them into Mosul.
+
+A story is told of a Sultan of Turkey who, desirous of putting a
+stop to the ever-increasing drink traffic, made a law by which every
+Moslem found the worse for drink should be cast into prison. The first
+morning after the new law had come into action, a Moslem was found
+drunk lying in the street, incapable of walking to his home. He was
+immediately taken to prison, and allowed to sleep off the effects of
+the drink. When he awoke, great was his surprise to find himself in
+the interior of a prison. On being taken before the judge, he pleaded
+"Not guilty," and said that he had been suffering for some days from
+a terrible pain in his tooth, and yesterday had gone to the hakeem
+(doctor) to obtain medicine to relieve the pain. The doctor had told
+him that the best cure for his pain was to drink a little brandy, so
+he had followed his advice, with the result that he fell asleep and
+only awoke to find himself in prison. The judge then commiserated
+the man on having such bad pain, but assured him it was easily
+remedied. Calling to one of his servants, he ordered him to go at once
+and fetch the barber, who acted as dentist to all such sufferers. The
+prisoner assured his excellency the judge that it really did not
+matter, the pain was better. "But," said the judge sympathetically,
+"it may come back." The barber was brought and told to examine the
+man's mouth. Finding no sign of decay, he assured the judge that the
+teeth were sound. The judge began to revile the dentist, saying,
+"You call yourself a dentist and do not know which is the tooth
+causing this man pain. Find it, and pull it out at once." Trembling,
+the dentist took his forceps and extracted a back tooth. "Let me see,"
+cried the judge. "Why, that is not rotten; what do you mean by pulling
+out a good tooth? Pull the rotten one out at once." Then the dentist
+again operated on his unwilling victim, and a second time the judge
+upbraided him for not drawing the right tooth, and ordered him to go
+on till he had found the one that was decayed. The wretched prisoner,
+feeling he could not bear to lose any more teeth, called out that it
+was all a lie: he never had had any toothache, and only drank brandy
+because he loved it, and promised never to touch it again. The judge
+smilingly bade his prisoner begone, warning him, however, that next
+time he offended all his teeth might have to come out.
+
+Closely associated with drinking is the gambling habit. This too,
+alas! is very prevalent in Mosul. In almost every house card-playing
+forms the chief pastime both in the hareem and amongst the men, and,
+as a rule, they play for money. Enormous sums of money are lost and
+won in this way, and, unfortunately, those in good positions are
+the ones who profit most by this gambling habit. One lady was the
+possessor of many beautiful jewels, diamonds, pearls, &c., and I was
+told that she had won them all by gambling.
+
+We are always very glad to take part in the social customs of the
+people when neither drinking nor gambling is part of the programme,
+and I, at least, certainly very much enjoy a dinner served ą l'Arabe,
+with its attendant native entertainment. The after-dinner story-telling
+is very amusing when you have mastered the language sufficiently
+to be able to follow the drift of the tale. Shortly before leaving,
+we gave a farewell dinner to some of our friends, and, after dinner,
+entertained them with fireworks, while one of the guests amused us
+all by recounting stories, some of which were very interesting. One
+was as follows:--
+
+"There is a village near Mosul called Tel Kaif, in which all the
+inhabitants are Christians. They are a very original set of people,
+differing altogether from the Christians of Mosul in language,
+dress, and customs. They consider they are quite the most clever and
+important people under the sun, and this idea is apparent in all their
+actions. Many years ago there lived in Tel Kaif a very clever and
+wise man called Uncle Goro. If any one was in trouble he immediately
+went to this man for advice; if any were sorrowful, it was to Uncle
+Goro they looked for consolation; were any sick, again it was Uncle
+Goro alone who could heal them. In fact, Uncle Goro was looked upon
+by the admiring villagers as their one hope and stay in times of
+need. One day a cow belonging to the village felt very thirsty. Now,
+the water supply of Tel Kaif is not very good, the villagers being
+dependent upon a large pool of rain-water, which sometimes dries
+up during the long-continued season of drought. Doubtless this cow
+did not approve of drinking dirty rain-water, so, while seeking for
+other means of slaking her thirst, she espied near the doorway of a
+house a large earthen water-pot. Into this she looked longingly, but
+her horns at first prevented her from reaching the water. However,
+after a little careful manipulation and perseverance, she managed
+to insert her head into the jar. When she had satisfied her thirst,
+she tried to withdraw her head, but found she could not, so there it
+had to remain, while the bewildered villagers looked on in helpless
+astonishment. At last they decided to appeal to their wise man, so
+one went off in search of him. When he arrived on the spot and beheld
+the cow with her head in the water-jar, he considered thoughtfully
+for a while, and then gave his advice in the following learned manner.
+
+"Oh, my children," he cried, "here is such a simple matter, and yet
+you could not find a way out of the difficulty. I am surprised that
+my fellow-men should be so ignorant."
+
+Then they all crowded round Uncle Goro, beseeching him out of his
+great wisdom to tell them what to do.
+
+"First," said Uncle Goro, "you must cut off the cow's head, then
+break the water-pot and take out the head!"
+
+This brilliant suggestion was at once put into practice, the owner of
+the cow being the only one who was not quite so sure of the exceeding
+greatness of the wisdom of Uncle Goro. When the deed was accomplished
+and the head extricated from its awkward position, the old man stood
+and proudly addressed the assembled crowd who had flocked to hear
+his words of wisdom. "My beloved children," said he, "a day will come
+when your old Uncle Goro will die, and then what will you do when you
+have no one to settle such difficult matters as these for you? Pray to
+God that your Uncle Goro may long be spared to advise and counsel you."
+
+A rather pretty custom exists in Mosul which gives people titles
+according to their work, or any special characteristics belonging
+to them. For example, the butcher is called "the father of meat";
+the baker, "the father of bread." In the hospital, when I am giving
+orders for the diet list, we hardly ever speak of the patients by name,
+but according to their disease, as "Aboo" (father) liver abscess,
+"Aboo-mai-abiyud" (father of cataract). One of the assistants in
+the hospital was named "The Angel of Death" by a poor little girl
+who was brought to the doctor a mass of burns. It was the duty of
+this assistant to dress the terrible wounds of the child every day,
+and though as gentle as a woman, he necessarily pained her a great
+deal--hence the term "Angel of Death." The women are designated in
+the same way as the men, only substituting "mother" for "father," as
+"Em haleeb," milk-woman; "Em saba' saba'een," mother of seventy-seven
+(or centipede), this last simply referring to a girl suffering from
+hysteria.
+
+This was an interesting case which was in the women's hospital for some
+weeks. The patient was a young woman about sixteen years of age. She
+was under the delusion that she had swallowed a "saba' saba'een"
+(a horny centipede, measuring some seven or eight inches, common
+in Mosul). She declared she could not eat anything, for every time
+she swallowed, the saba' saba'een opened its mouth and ate the food
+just partaken of! She absolutely refused to touch anything of her own
+accord, so we had to force food down her throat. Two or three women
+would hold her hands and feet while I fed her with a spoon. As time
+went on she became worse instead of better, and was always beseeching
+my husband to operate on her and take out the saba' saba'een. After
+a time he consented to give her an anęsthetic and operate. On the day
+appointed she was taken to the theatre and given a whiff of chloroform,
+while the doctor made a slight incision in her skin. This was stitched
+up, and she was shown her wound and assured that the doctor had cut
+her and found nothing. After this she was much happier, and was soon
+well enough to leave the hospital.
+
+Women never know their age in Mosul. On dispensary days each woman is
+required to give her name and age. The first difficulty is over the
+name. Many do not know their surnames at all. When asked, "What is your
+father's name?" they say, "How do I know?" and then add with a laugh,
+"Say Bint Abdulla" (daughter of a servant of God). Abdulla is often
+a very convenient name when the parentage is uncertain.
+
+With regard to their age, women are quite hopeless. I have often
+seen an old lady, bent double with the weight of many years, come
+into the dispensary.
+
+"Well, mother, how old are you?" I ask her.
+
+"How old am I? How do I know, my daughter?"
+
+"Do you think you are fifteen?"
+
+"Well, I may be."
+
+"Are you twenty yet?"
+
+"Perhaps I am," replies the fair damsel of eighty. "I know I was born
+two years before the year that the locusts ate all the corn."
+
+As to how many years ago the locusts destroyed the crop she has not
+the remotest idea.
+
+Or another woman will come, certainly not more than twenty or
+twenty-five, the mother of a baby in arms. On being asked her age
+she replies, "About sixty"! The natives never have any idea when
+their birthdays are, but keep their name-days instead. Thus amongst
+the Christians all Johns will keep the feast of St. John as their
+feast-day, and so on.
+
+Parents have a convenient way of forgetting the date of the birth
+of their daughters. A girl who is not betrothed will remain twelve
+or thirteen for much more than one year; for when she has passed
+fourteen or fifteen years she is no longer considered young, and not
+very likely to be betrothed at all if her real age is known.
+
+The natives of Mosul are very superstitious; more especially, perhaps,
+is this true of the women. One curious superstition they have with
+regard to scent. Now an odour which is filthy and dangerous, such
+as may be felt in most of the houses, is not at all injurious from
+their standpoint, but a sweet-smelling scent is an abomination to
+the women. If by any chance I have been using anything in the way of
+scent (though as a rule I am very careful not to), the first thing
+I see on entering a room is that the women all immediately apply
+their handkerchiefs to their olfactory organs. At first this custom
+appears, to say the least, not too polite; but when you realise   \
+what it means to them, you understand and excuse them. They firmly
+believe that a sweet smell brings sickness and sorrow--that it is
+equally fatal to mothers and young children--hence the great fear of
+anything in the way of scent. One day our reception-room was full of
+women who had come to visit me. Suddenly a visitor was announced (a
+native of the country, but not of Mosul); immediately all the women
+crowded into one corner, burying their heads in their chuddars. I
+could not make out what had disturbed them till I discovered that
+the new-comer was strongly scented. She was left severely alone by
+all the others, who kept as far away as possible from her, some even
+leaving the room, fearing lest evil should overtake them.
+
+Another day I went to visit a little patient of my husband's in whom
+he took a great interest. This little boy was the spoilt darling of
+his parents, the father especially idolising him, watching over him
+carefully lest any harm should befall him. Great was his consternation
+and distress when it was found that an operation was necessary to save
+the life of the boy. When the little chap was convalescent I went
+to see him. After talking to the mother some time in another room,
+she suggested our going to see the boy. No sooner had I appeared at
+the threshold of the door, when the boy buried his face in his hands,
+calling out, "Oh, you smell, you smell!" I assured both the mother
+and the boy that I had no scent of any kind on me, but the boy would
+not be pacified, and continued crying out, "Go away--you smell!" As
+he was still weak, I thought I had better depart, as excitement was
+bad for him. When visiting amongst the women it is better not to use
+scented soap, as they detect even that sometimes!
+
+Birds have a good many superstitions connected with them. Last year,
+while we were waiting for the decision of our committee regarding
+the future of the mission in Mosul, some women informed me that "good
+news was coming." Good news meant to them that the Mission was to be
+kept on. On asking how they knew, they told me they had just heard
+a bird singing which is supposed never to raise his voice except as
+the harbinger of good tidings. Storks are looked upon as omens of good
+luck. These birds return every spring to Mosul, hatch their eggs, and
+migrate in early autumn. The natives of Mosul always hail their return
+with great joy, especially if they nest on their roofs. Some will even
+go so far as to put baskets on the roofs, hoping that the storks will
+be attracted by them and make them their home for the summer. They
+agree with Longfellow in his love of storks, as expressed in his poem--
+
+
+              "By God in heaven
+        As a blessing, the dear white stork was given."
+
+
+If there had been any truth in this superstition, we ought to have been
+very prosperous; for at one time we had no less than three families
+of storks on our roof. Personally I think they are not altogether
+too desirable, for when sleeping on the roof they are apt to become
+very noisy companions. I do not think I like to be laughed at by
+these birds. In the early morning they stand close by one's bed,
+throw back their heads till they rest on their backs, and then laugh
+aloud at the idea of any one sleeping when once dawn has appeared.
+
+The common name for storks in Mosul is "the thieves," as they
+sometimes steal small articles of clothing hanging out to dry, such as
+handkerchiefs; and no one would ever dare to go to the nest to hunt,
+lest they should disturb the birds and cause them to fly away. These
+birds are rather a convenience sometimes for the washerwoman: when
+blouses disappear it is easy to lay the blame on the "thieves." They
+are almost as useful as the proverbial "cat."
+
+Our servant Judy is a little woman full of queer superstitious
+ideas. While in Mosul I received the sad news of the death of my
+father: poor Judy was so distressed lest by over-much mourning I
+should tempt God to take my husband too. As dressmaking is rather
+primitive in Mosul I decided to have some things dyed black. Judy
+would not hear of such a thing, saying that only widows must wear
+dyed clothes, and that if I wore dyed dresses for my father, she was
+sure something would happen to my husband.
+
+Another thing she never would do, and that is to step over our feet! In
+the summer evenings we used to sit in our verandah, which was rather
+narrow, and if by chance we should place our feet on a hassock in
+front of us there remained no room for any one to pass. I could not
+make out why Judy would never pass that way when it was necessary to
+enter the room at our back. At last she told me that if she stepped
+over our feet, she would be in danger of "cutting our life," and that
+if we died it would be her fault. After this I often tried to make
+her step over my feet, by blocking her pathway, but she never would,
+so strong was her belief that by so doing she would cut short my life!
+
+It is surprising how ignorantly superstitious some of the better-class
+people are. A wife of a very wealthy Christian merchant in Mosul had
+a child who suffered terribly from sore eyes. She brought him to the
+dispensary for some time, but finding that the treatment pained the
+child and made him cry, ceased to bring him. We heard afterwards that
+she had resorted to the following superstitious method of healing.
+
+A sheep was bought, killed, and opened: while the blood was still hot
+the head of the child was inserted into the middle of the sheep's body
+and allowed to remain there about fifteen minutes. Could any treatment
+be more revolting and disgusting than this? and yet these people,
+rich and influential members of Mosul society, really believed that by
+doing this their child's eyes would be cured. Needless to say it had
+not the desired effect, and months afterwards they again brought the
+child to the dispensary, and having learnt their lesson by experience,
+were content to leave the child in the English hakim's hands, with
+the result that after a couple of months' daily treatment the eyes
+were quite healed.
+
+I do not know what virtue is supposed to exist in the killing of the
+sheep or goat, but it is a custom very much in vogue in Mosul. On
+our return from Beyrout, after having been absent three months, a
+live goat was brought out into the desert to meet us, and the moment
+we alighted from our carriage this poor creature was slaughtered
+right under our eyes. In Persia the custom amongst the Armenians at
+a wedding feast was for a sheep to be killed just as the bride and
+bridegroom were stepping over the threshold of their new home. It
+was not considered lucky if the bride did not put her foot into the
+blood as she passed. In Mosul, too, I believe a sheep is sometimes
+slaughtered at weddings in this way, but I have never seen it done.
+
+When a wife is desirous of becoming a mother, there are various
+superstitious methods to which she may resort, but perhaps the
+favourite one of all is that connected with Sheikh Matti. This is a
+monastery situated some twelve hours' ride from Mosul, on the side
+of a lonely mountain. The woman makes a pilgrimage to this place,
+and is then told that she must spend a night in the solitary chapel
+there. While she sleeps an angel will visit the building, and if her
+request is to be vouchsafed her, will place an apple by her head. If
+the angel desires to be especially kind to the woman, he will place
+two, or even three apples near her, the number of apples indicating
+how many children God is going to honour her with. Strange to say,
+these angel visits do not take place unless provoked by a fair amount
+of backsheesh!
+
+There are a good many superstitions regarding medical treatment of
+diseases and accidents, but these, I believe, are fast dying out in
+the face of European learning and skill. The people are learning by
+experience how much better are the English methods than their own. For
+instance, it used to be the common custom for those suffering from
+fever to go to the mullah, who would lay his hands on the patient's
+head while reading a few verses from the Koran. If the fever did not
+go at once, well, it was the fault of the fever, not of the mullah. I
+fancy fever patients are beginning to prefer English medicines rather
+than to trust to the laying on of hands by the mullah. When any one has
+been bitten by a mad dog, which, considering the number of street dogs,
+is of very rare occurrence, he goes at once to a sheikh, who will give
+him an antidote. This consists of a date from which the stone has been
+taken, and into which the sheikh has spat two or three times to fill up
+the gap caused by the removal of the stone. Upon eating this, the man
+is supposed to be free from all fear of the development of hydrophobia.
+
+These are merely a few of the superstitious customs found in Mosul
+to-day. Had we time or space they might be multiplied many times over,
+but enough, I trust, has been said to awaken love and sympathy in our
+hearts for these simple folk, whose minds are so easily influenced
+and guided by these useless and often degrading
+
+
+                    "Heart-chilling superstitions, which can glaze
+                    Even Pity's eye with her own frozen tears."
+
+                                                              Coleridge.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+THE YEZIDEES
+
+    Gratitude to the English--Persecutions--"Devil-worshippers"--Sun
+    and fire worship--Priesthood--A visit to Sheikh Ādi--Peacock
+    wands--A sacred shrine.
+
+
+                           "Whoever thou art, if thy need be great,
+                            In the Name of God, the Compassionate
+                            And All-Merciful One--
+                                For Thee I wait."
+
+                                                               Whittier.
+
+
+The Yezidees, or, as they are commonly called, "devil-worshippers,"
+are a very remarkable tribe living in the near vicinity of Mosul. Very
+little is really known as to their religious beliefs, and whether
+they worship the devil or only fear him, has never yet been discovered
+by Europeans.
+
+These curious people are very favourably disposed towards the English,
+as many years ago the British representative in Mosul was able
+to assist them very materially. The Mohammedans have always been
+very bitter against this people, and have done all in their power
+to exterminate them. A former Pasha at one time captured the high
+priest of the Yezidees, whose name was Sheikh Naser; he somehow
+managed to escape, substituting in his place a priest under him
+in authority. The priest never revealed this fact, and bore with
+resignation the tortures and imprisonment inflicted upon him. The
+Yezidees applied to Mr. Rassam, who was the British Vice-Consul at
+Mosul, and he obtained the release of the priest by paying a large
+sum as ransom money. This debt was faithfully repaid, and since that
+time the Yezidees have cherished very grateful memories of the English.
+
+Many years ago these Yezidees were a very powerful tribe. They had
+two principal strongholds, one in the mountains lying to the west of
+Mosul, and the other only twenty-four hours' journey to the north. By
+means of continual attacks and massacres at the hands of the Kurds,
+their population has been reduced considerably, only about one-third
+remaining of their original number.
+
+Mohammedans are always very bitter against any sect which is supposed
+to have no "Book." The Yezidees, coming under this category, receive
+little mercy from them, and for centuries have been exposed to
+persecutions from these their oppressors. Of late years the Yezidees
+have seen the uselessness of rebelling against their fate, and,
+acknowledging their defeat, are patiently bearing their misfortunes.
+
+These so-called devil-worshippers recognise one Supreme Being, but
+apparently do not offer any prayers directly to Him. The name of God
+is often on their lips in the form of oaths, but that of the evil
+spirit is never to be heard. So far do they carry this superstition,
+that not only will they not use the word Shaitan (Satan), but any
+word beginning with "sh" is also shunned by them. Then, again, such
+a veneration have they for Satan, that it is prohibited amongst the
+Yezidees to utter any word containing the letter sh (shin), being
+the first letter of the Arabic word for Satan. Thus they have to
+find other words to express such commonly spoken of objects as the
+sun, river, water-melon, &c., as they each begin with the prohibited
+letter. Layard, in his Travels amongst them, tells of one instance
+illustrating this superstition. He was standing in the midst of a
+large crowd of Yezidees gathered to take part in their yearly feast,
+when he espied a boy climbing a tree at the apparent risk of his
+neck. He says, "As I looked up I saw the impending danger, and made an
+effort by an appeal to the chief to avert it. 'If that young Sheit--'
+I exclaimed, about to use an epithet generally applied in the East
+to such adventurous youths. I checked myself immediately, but it
+was too late; half the dreaded word had escaped." He goes on to say
+that the effect was instantaneous, a look of horror spreading over
+the faces of all present. Fortunately for him, he was a favourite
+amongst the Yezidees, and so they allowed it to pass. So great is
+the horror of this letter, that they have often killed those who
+use it wilfully. When speaking of the devil they do so reverently,
+calling him the "mighty angel."
+
+The symbol of their religion is the "Malek el Taous," a peacock, and is
+held in great reverence by them. Satan is said to be the head of the
+angelic host, and he is supplied with seven archangels, who minister
+to him and exercise great influence over the world; they are Gabriel,
+Michael, Raphael, Azrail, Dedrail, Azrapheel, and Shemkeel. Our Lord
+is also counted amongst the angels, though not one of these seven,
+and is acknowledged to have taken upon Himself the form of man. They,
+in common with the Mohammedans, do not believe in His crucifixion; but
+declare that He ascended to heaven just before that event took place,
+some saying that the angel Gabriel took our Lord's place on the Cross,
+while others say Judas was the real victim. They are looking forward
+to the second coming of Christ and also to the reappearance of the
+Imam; this latter being also the Mohammedan's hope. Their patron
+saint is one called Sheikh Ādi, who is supposed to have lived many
+years before Mohammed; but very little is known of his history.
+
+They reverence the sun, and are in the habit of kissing the object on
+which its first rays fall. Fire as a symbol is also connected with
+their worship, the disciples frequently passing their hands through
+the flame, kissing them, and then rubbing them over their faces. They
+have four orders of priesthood, which is hereditary, and consists of
+the Pirs, Sheikhs, Cawals, and the Fakirs.
+
+The Pirs (from a Persian word meaning old man) are the most reverenced
+next to their great sheikh or head of the sect. These are believed to
+possess the power not only of interceding for their adherents, but also
+of curing disease and insanity. They are supposed to lead a life of
+great sanctity, and are in consequence much looked up to by the people.
+
+The Sheikhs come next in order of rank. These are supposed to know a
+little Arabic, as their work is to write the hymns which are chanted
+at their religious services. They guard the tomb of Sheikh Ādi,
+bring fuel to keep up the holy fire, and provisions to those who
+dwell within the shrine.
+
+The third rank of priesthood is perhaps the most active of all. These
+are called Cawals or preachers, and it is their duty to go from
+village to village teaching the doctrines of the Yezidees. They are all
+musicians, being taught to sing when very young; they also perform on
+the flute and tambourine, both of these instruments being looked upon
+as holy. Before and after playing they often kiss their instruments,
+and pass them to the audience for them to do likewise. They dress as
+a rule in white and wear black turbans, while the sheikhs always wear
+nothing but white. They are generally venerable-looking men with long
+beards. They act as emissaries for the sheikh, and yearly go forth
+and collect the revenues. Their emblem of office is a wand, on the top
+of which is perched a brazen peacock, and they boast with pride that
+never have their enemies been able to capture one of these staves. They
+relate how on one memorable occasion a priest, being chased through
+the desert by Arabs, in the heat of the pursuit stopped his mare,
+descended, and buried the precious badge of office; then, marking the
+exact site for future reference, resumed his flight. Having escaped
+with his life, six months later he managed to recover the buried staff,
+creeping down by night into the desert from his mountain shelter. Now
+why should they place such a high value on these emblems? A possible
+solution was given me by the Rev. Dr. St. Clair Tisdall, who recalled
+to my mind an old Mohammedan tradition that it was the peacock who
+admitted Satan into the garden of Eden. This would strengthen the
+suspicion that the Yezidees really do worship the evil one.
+
+The lowest order in the priesthood are called Fakirs. These wear coarse
+dresses of black or dark-brown canvas, which reach only as far as the
+knees. Their office is to perform all the menial work connected with
+the tomb of Sheikh Ādi, sweeping and cleaning the sacred buildings,
+trimming and lighting the holy lamps. These lamps are offerings made
+by pilgrims who have visited the tomb in times of danger or sickness.
+
+A yearly sum is subscribed for the oil necessary for the lamps and
+for the support of the priests. At sunset each evening these lamps
+are lit, and give the appearance of a multitude of stars glittering
+on the side of the mountain; for not only are the lamps placed in the
+shrine and walls of the courtyard, but they are also scattered about on
+rocks and ledges and in the dark corners of the woods. As the priest
+goes from lamp to lamp lighting each one, men and women pass their
+hands through the flame and smear their foreheads, and those who have
+children do the same to them. This reverence for fire reminds one of
+the Parsees of Persia, whom these people in many ways resemble.
+
+Unfortunately I was unable to visit these interesting villages,
+but I hope to do so on a future occasion. We had intended to spend
+a month amongst them during the summer of 1906, the sheikh having
+extended a cordial invitation to us. My husband accordingly went up to
+reconnoitre, and see if there was any place possible either to stay in
+or to pitch our tent. He found, however, that it was hardly a suitable
+place for a summer holiday, as the climate was not very satisfactory,
+besides which it was difficult to find a place for the tents; so we
+decided we would not go that year at any rate. Both my husband and the
+men with him were quite ill for a few hours after visiting Sheikh Ādi,
+so they were not anxious to return. The natives say that this illness
+is caused by drinking the water, but that the effect passes off after
+a few days, when one has become accustomed to the water.
+
+My husband, however, much enjoyed his visit amongst these strange
+people, and in writing of that time he says:--
+
+"These interesting people dwell in the mountains round about Mosul,
+the ancient Nineveh. They are ruled over by a sheikh, who claims
+to be able to put some ten thousand armed horsemen in the field. On
+account of their suspected devil-worship they are detested by Moslems
+and Christians alike. The Turks have more than once endeavoured
+to exterminate them; but, entrenched in their mountain fastnesses,
+they are very hard to overcome.
+
+"When in Mosul their sheikh called on me and asked me to pay him a
+visit up in his mountain home. Thus I was able to see their homes
+for myself, also the sacred shrine, hidden away in the mountains,
+where their reputed founder (Sheikh Ādi) lies buried, from whom it
+derives its name.
+
+"The Yezidees, like the Druses of Mount Lebanon, are very reluctant to
+discuss their religion, and it is said that death is the penalty for
+any one among them who reveals the truth concerning what they worship.
+
+"On paying a visit to their sacred shrine (Sheikh Ādi), I found it
+hidden in the hollow of thickly-wooded mountains, and composed of
+two large compounds, the inner compound containing the shrine in
+a church-like building with a newly-built steeple. On the right
+side of the entrance porch is the figure of a huge serpent graven
+in the stone of the building, with its head uppermost. This serpent
+is kept blackened daily with charcoal by the two or three old monks
+who live in the shrine. Upon inquiring the meaning of this symbol,
+the monk told me it was graven there to remind the worshippers to
+remove their sandals from off their feet, as the ground around the
+shrine is holy. If any should be careless or wicked enough to disobey,
+it was said that they would be bitten on the heels by some of the
+snakes that were said to infest the place.
+
+"The steeple rises immediately from the room in the church that once
+contained the body of their founder, Sheikh Ādi. This sheikh was a
+great Mohammedan teacher who many centuries ago used to preach and
+teach in Damascus. He gathered around him many disciples, and it
+is said he was accustomed to vary the monotony of his teaching by
+drawing a circle on the ground, and, placing therein himself and some
+favourite disciple, would enable the latter to hear and understand
+the teaching of another famous mullah speaking in far-away Baghdad.
+
+"This Sheikh Ādi some years before his death retired to this place
+in the mountains, two days' journey from Mosul, and there he was
+visited by many, as his fame spread abroad, and in this place he died
+and was buried. The Yezidees claim that, ere he died, he forsook
+Mohammedanism and instituted a new religion. The Moslems, however,
+reverence his memory, and say that the Yezidees, after his death,
+started a new religion of their own.
+
+"In the church there was to be seen a pool of water, said by them to be
+used as a baptistery, and little else but bare walls. My guide assured
+me it used to look very different, but fifteen years previously the
+Turks had captured the place and destroyed all they could lay hands
+on. On the roof near the steeple are two stones, facing east and west,
+said to be used as prayer-stones, the Yezidees praying as the first
+ray of the rising sun appears, and as the last ray of the setting
+sun departs, and use these stones as indicators. This, again, is
+interesting, as (according to Dr. Tisdall) it is a curious fact that
+Mohammedan tradition avers that it is alone at these two times daily
+that the devil has power to intercept the prayers of the faithful, and
+they are, therefore, to be scrupulously avoided by all true Moslems.
+
+"The Yezidees are loath to venture into the city, but a few have
+already commenced to attend the Mission Dispensary. They are easily
+recognised by their costume, and by the fact that no Yezidee is allowed
+to wear any garment exposing the breast. One of these patients informed
+me that when he wanted to worship he went to the priest (cawal),
+paid him a small fee, and was placed in a small room, the filthier
+the better, and made to sit on the floor. The priest would then sit
+in front of him and make him imagine himself to be in Paradise (the
+Eastern idea of Paradise--lovely garden, flowing stream, trees laden
+with fruit, houris, &c.). If (and it is a big 'if') his statement
+was true, it would point to their priests having some knowledge of
+hypnotism, but the Yezidees will say anything to mislead an inquirer.
+
+"We had a little Yezidee boy in hospital with his mother. He had
+been successfully operated upon for stone, but developed jaundice
+and gradually sank. One evening, ere his mother took him back to
+her village, a message was brought to us imploring my wife and me to
+wash our hands in the water our servant brought us; the same water
+was then to be given by the Yezidee mother to her dying boy that he
+might drink and live!
+
+"One longs to be able to tell them of Him who is the Water of Life: but
+they have a language of their own, and understand but little Arabic.
+
+"Will not my readers pray that the Mosul Mission may be strengthened
+and properly equipped; that the Gospel may be preached to these poor
+Yezidees, as well as to their Mohammedan neighbours; and that they
+may learn to love Him who alone has power to cast out devils?"
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+TRAVELLING IN THE DESERT
+
+    Monotony of desert travelling--A puppy and a
+    kitten--Tragedy--Accident by the river Euphrates--Riots in
+    Mosul--Robberies and murder excited by love of gold.
+
+
+                       "Of moving accidents by flood and field,
+                        Of hairbreadth 'scapes....
+                        The shot of accident, nor dart of chance
+                        Could neither graze nor pierce...."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+Travelling in the desert is apt to become rather monotonous when
+each day goes by with nothing to mark it from the preceding one,
+so that when some event out of the common does take place it is
+quite exhilarating. For instance, once during our mid-day halt,
+which happened to be on the site of a newly-deserted Arab encampment,
+we heard a cry, and looking about found a wee puppy about two days
+old. This puppy afforded us amusement for at least two days, much
+to the amazement of our muleteers. We wrapped it in flannel, placed
+it in the sunshine to try and instil some warmth into its chilly
+body, and presently we had the satisfaction of hearing its wailing
+gradually cease as the sunshine penetrated the flannel. We managed
+to keep life in the poor little beast for two or three days, but,
+as milk is scarce in the desert, it was impossible to feed it properly.
+
+One evening we arrived at an Arab encampment, and thought it would
+be kinder to leave the poor puppy with one of the Arabs, who are
+supposed to be fond of dogs. So we persuaded our servant to take the
+puppy and deposit it in one of the tents. He did so very reluctantly,
+thinking he might be shot at for venturing near after dusk. However,
+he crept up quietly and placed the puppy just inside one of the
+tents. Immediately the owner demanded who was there, but Aboo (our
+servant) fled without waiting to answer. We heard the Arab using
+some strong language, and then, catching sight of the poor puppy,
+he took it up and threw it out into the desert. We could hear the
+little thing squealing and crying, so my husband went to rescue it
+once more from an untimely end. He found it on top of a rubbish heap,
+brought it back to our tent, and we tried again to warm and soothe
+it. The next day, however, the little spark of remaining life was
+quenched. So the short story of this little forsaken waif ended in a
+sad tragedy, and my husband undertook the dismal duty of committing
+its body to the deep waters of the river.
+
+Another day one of our escort galloped up with great excitement to
+show us a kitten he had just found in the desert--the poor little
+mite was so thankful to see a human being again, and had evidently
+been left behind in much the same manner as the puppy when the Arab
+tribe was migrating.
+
+These are small episodes of the desert which help to break the
+monotony. I may perhaps be allowed to misquote the well-known lines
+of S. Gregory:--
+
+
+            "A little thing is a little thing,
+            But 'excitement' in little things
+            Is a great thing"--in the desert.
+
+
+On one occasion we passed an Arab lying on his back and covered with
+his aba, the native cloak worn by all classes. We heard afterwards that
+it was a case of murder; that the man had been dead three days, and
+only then had been found by his sons, who were out searching for their
+father. Hastily covering him with one of their cloaks, they had rushed
+off to try and find the murderer and avenge their father's blood. We
+met them soon afterwards, and they told the whole story to our escort.
+
+In the preceding chapters we have seen how often the cry of "Wolf,
+wolf!" was raised when there was no wolf, till we began to think that
+the much-talked-of robbers of the desert did not exist at all, or, if
+they did exist, would not dare to touch a European caravan. However,
+we soon learnt to our cost that this was not the case.
+
+Two years ago we were travelling from Mosul to Aleppo, and had almost
+reached our destination when we met with the following adventure.
+
+Having reached the end of our stage one day, we had encamped within
+a stone's throw of the river Euphrates, just outside the town of
+Beridjik. Our tent was pitched beneath a lovely spreading tree,
+under which ran a sparkling stream on its way from the mountains
+to the river. We thought what an ideal camping-ground it made, and
+apparently the same thought entered the minds of some others, only from
+a different standpoint. All round us were signs of the industry of
+the villagers in the form of huge stacks of corn freshly reaped, now
+waiting for the threshing time to begin. Ere we retired for the night
+we were strolling by the stream and amongst the corn, where we noticed
+two men sitting in the field, who gave us the evening salutations as
+we passed by. We did not attribute any importance to this fact, as it
+is not unusual for the villagers to set watchmen to guard their corn
+during harvest time and afterwards, till the grain is safely housed.
+
+So, committing ourselves to the care of Him who never slumbers or
+sleeps, we retired to our tent, hoping for a good night's rest to
+prepare us for the journey of the morrow. Our "ideal camping-ground"
+I found to have at least one great disadvantage--a disadvantage
+common to all grounds which are used by flocks of goats and sheep for
+their resting-places. That night these "pilgrims of the desert" were
+particularly active, and gave me no peace or chance of sleep till the
+early hours of the morning; then at last, worn-out with the unequal
+warfare, I fell asleep. I could not have been sleeping long when I
+was awakened by a movement on the part of my camp bedstead. Sleepily
+I decided in my mind that our donkey had loosened his tether and was
+trying to pay us a friendly visit. Often in the night some animal would
+get loose, and rub himself against our tent ropes till he had succeeded
+in rooting up one peg, when he would go and practise on another.
+Thinking this was the case now I promptly fell asleep again, only
+to be reawakened in a short time by the same sensation. This time I
+was quite awake, and in an instant flashed my electric torch round
+the tent, just in time to see a man decamping by the door. I roused
+my husband (whose sleep is never disturbed by pilgrims of the night),
+and told him what had happened. He immediately rushed out and gave the
+alarm to the camp. Unfortunately it was a very dark night, and nothing
+could be seen a yard ahead, so the robbers had ample opportunity for
+beating a retreat. Our tent was some little way from the village, so
+my husband returned to the tent to put on some more garments before
+going to interview the head-man of the village, who is always supposed
+to be responsible for the safety of caravans. When he came to look
+for his clothes, the only article he could find was one shoe, the
+thieves having cleared the tent of everything available, even to our
+tooth-brushes! Not only did they clear off everything from the tent,
+but also emptied a large box which was standing outside the tent,
+and also took a large valise containing my husband's portmanteau
+and my "hold-all." Had they been content with these, we should never
+have known of their nocturnal visit till the morning; but in their
+desire to secure the small carpet which lay in the middle of the tent,
+they awoke me, hence the movement of my bed which twice disturbed my
+sleep. We felt there was nothing to be done till daybreak, so retired
+once more to rest.
+
+As soon as dawn appeared some of the caravan party rode off in
+different directions to see if they could find any trace of the
+thieves, but of course they had disappeared long ago under cover of the
+darkness. The search party, however, brought back a few garments picked
+up along the road, which the thieves had evidently dropped in their
+hurry when the alarm was given. Our escort, a soldier from Beridjik,
+was sent back to the town to notify the Government officials of the
+robbery. In a short time the governor of the place rode out with six
+or seven other officials, all evidently much disturbed in their minds
+lest they should get into disgrace for allowing any harm to come to
+a European caravan. The first thing the governor did was to send for
+the head-man of the village and have him bound and beaten. I was so
+sorry for the poor man, who had a flowing white beard. I could not
+bear to witness his beating, so retired to the tent, and tried to shut
+out the sound as well as the sight of the old man's sufferings. As
+a matter of fact I do not think the beating was a very severe one,
+but the victim made the most of it.
+
+This proving of no avail, they all set out for the neighbouring
+villages, and spent the whole of that day and the next scouring the
+country for the thieves, returning each day at sunset and renewing
+the search early next morning. My husband accompanied them the
+first day, and was very much amused by the behaviour of some of the
+villagers at sight of the officials. At some villages they would find
+nothing but women, the men all having fled at the news that soldiers
+were coming. They found plenty of other stolen goods buried in the
+ground of the huts, but none of our belongings. In one village a man
+confidentially whispered to one of the soldiers that he knew where
+the stolen goods were. On being told to lead the way to the place,
+he led them all to a large field in which were some hundred or more
+large corn-stacks, and said that the goods were in one of those. I
+expect he much enjoyed his little joke, for after turning over a dozen
+or so of these ricks under the scorching sun, the soldiers gave up
+the task as hopeless. All efforts proving unavailing, we had perforce
+to proceed on our journey, managing as best we could till we reached
+Aleppo, where we were able to replenish that which was most lacking
+in our wardrobe. The fame of our adventure preceded us to Jerusalem,
+where a month or two later we heard a most exaggerated account of
+our state when we entered Aleppo.
+
+My husband went at once to our consul on reaching Aleppo, laying
+before him the whole story. Fortunately for us, Mr. Longworth was
+a most energetic and painstaking man, having great influence with
+the Government officials. He asked us to write out an estimate of
+our losses, which he presented to the Vali, assuring us he would
+either make the Government pay full compensation or produce the lost
+goods. After six months of endless work and worry, Mr. Longworth sent
+my husband a telegram saying that compensation to the full amount had
+been given. We were very thankful to our consul for his unceasing
+energy in the matter, and sent him our very grateful thanks. Thus
+happily ended No. 1 of our chapter of accidents. When we think of what
+"might have been" that night with those wild men of the desert in our
+tent while we were sleeping, our hearts go up with great thankfulness
+to God, who ever watches over His children, and who can keep them as
+safely in the deserts of Mesopotamia as in the homeland.
+
+The two men we had noticed sitting amongst the corn had probably been
+hired for the purpose of robbing us, but the real culprit was suspected
+afterwards to have been one of the leading men of Beridjik--in fact
+we were told that he was a member of the "town council." Doubtless he
+wished to procure for himself and his hareem some European clothing,
+without the expense of buying it.
+
+Another peril from which in God's mercy we were delivered had its
+origin in Mosul.
+
+The Vali, in obedience to orders from Constantinople, endeavoured to
+register every woman in Mosul. To accomplish this it was necessary
+to find out the number and "write" a list of every woman in each
+house. Moslems and Christians alike rose in revolt at the idea of
+their women being "written," as it appeared to them contrary to
+all the laws of God and Mohammed that such a thing should be. The
+whole town was in an uproar, the shops were shut, no business was
+done in the sook (bazaar), and men congregated everywhere, talking
+angrily and making ugly threats. This went on for five days; such a
+thing had never been known before. Sometimes, in times of trouble,
+work has been suspended for three days, but no one could remember
+the sook being shut for such a length of time as five days.
+
+The Christians began to be very much alarmed for their safety, as it
+was rumoured that, unless the Vali gave way, at the expiration of the
+fifth day a general massacre of Christians would take place. The French
+convent was guarded by soldiers; our agent wired to the Consul-General
+at Baghdad for a like guard for the English, which happily, however,
+was not needed. When my husband was in the house I did not feel at
+all nervous, but if he was called out to see a patient after dark I
+certainly felt very anxious till he returned; for all around us was
+heard the continual firing of guns and pistols, and I pictured to
+myself the possibilities and probabilities of some of those stray
+bullets. "Alhamd'llillah!" nothing happened, and we realised again
+once more that the traveller's God is able to keep, as expressed in
+those incomparable words commonly known as the Traveller's Psalm.
+
+On the evening of the fifth day the governor recalled his order for
+the names of the women to be written, and all was quiet once more,
+at least outwardly. For some time, however, a feeling of unrest was
+abroad, several murders taking place that week, one of which still
+remains wrapt in mystery. A Moslem enticed a Jew into the country on
+the pretext of having some work for him to do; he then made the man dig
+a grave; after which he stabbed him, and threw the body into the grave
+made by the victim's own hands. The reason of the murder is unknown.
+
+One evening we were having dinner, when in rushed my husband's
+chief assistant, in a great state of excitement, to say that his
+brother had been stabbed in the sook, and they had brought him to
+our outer compound. My husband immediately went out and found the
+young man with a wound in his thigh.  Had it been a little higher
+up the result would probably have been fatal, but happily it was
+a comparatively trivial wound, and a few stitches and a week's rest
+soon put him right again; but naturally Daoud (the name of the victim)
+was very much alarmed, and it was some time before he quite recovered
+his nerve and could walk through that sook again. It seemed such an
+absolutely meaningless assault, that we could only hope it was a case
+of mistaken identity. Daoud had been an assistant for over a year,
+and as far as he knew had not a single enemy in the town.
+
+Matters of private dispute and jealousy are often settled by means
+of the revolver. An Armenian doctor, a short time ago, was shot when
+riding home from visiting a case. He was passing under a dark archway,
+when suddenly he heard bullets whizzing and became aware that he was
+the target. His horse was so badly hit that he was afraid it could
+not recover, but fortunately he himself escaped with only a slight
+graze or two. He attributed the motive of this attack to private
+grudges borne against him by some of his professional brethren.
+
+There is in Mosul an Armenian woman, whose husband was a doctor who
+had been celebrated for one special kind of operation. On his death
+his widow thought she might as well continue her husband's practice,
+as she had often assisted him with the operations. Accordingly she
+set herself up amongst the many quack doctors of Mosul. Many of her
+operations were successful, while the results of a still greater
+number remain in obscurity. Her charges were tremendous; no matter
+how poor her patient, she would do nothing till a very large fee
+had been paid. In this way she made a rich harvest while no European
+doctor was in the city, but after our arrival I am afraid her income
+was considerably lessened. Upon our departure from Mosul I imagine
+she again started her lucrative profession of grinding money out of
+the poor, for we heard not long ago that she had been stabbed five
+times while walking in the streets one evening.
+
+Robberies are very common in Mosul. Almost every evening may be heard
+on all hands sounds of shooting, telling of houses being visited by
+robbers. Fortunately, so far, they have not favoured us with a visit,
+and I sincerely hope they never will. One evening we were sitting
+quietly in the verandah when a woman came rushing in from the women's
+hospital compound, saying that there were three men on the roof. We
+all rushed out, armed with anything we could lay hands on, and made
+a dash for the roof on which the men had been seen, but no sign of
+them could be found. One of our servants climbed on to the top of
+the wall connecting our house with our neighbour's, flashing his
+lantern all round in his endeavours to see any trace of the supposed
+thieves. Excited voices were at once heard asking "Who is there?" "Why
+do you throw a light here?" &c.; and the lantern-bearer found to his
+horror that he was illuminating with his lamp the whole of the hareem
+of our next-door neighbour, who were all sleeping on the roof, the
+time being summer. His descent was much quicker than his ascent, as
+he was in deadly fear of being shot by the irate owner of the hareem.
+
+As a rule thieves only think it worth while to go after gold. Silver is
+not accounted of any value in Mosul. The natives, especially perhaps
+the Christians and Jews, always have a great deal of gold in their
+houses, and in consequence live in terror of the robbers coming to
+relieve them of it.
+
+Shortly before we left I heard of a very sad case of robbery and
+murder. A young Christian girl, who had just been married, was awakened
+one night by a man roughly forcing the gold bracelets from her wrist,
+holding at the same time a revolver at her head, and telling her if
+she made a sound he would shoot her dead. For a time she suffered
+in silence, but an extra sharp wrench from the rough hands of her
+tormentor made her cry out in pain. Her cry roused her husband,
+and he immediately made a dash for the robber, who calmly turned the
+revolver at the man's head and shot him dead. Thus the bride of only
+a few days' duration was left a widow. Another day two women belonging
+to one of the leading Christian families were returning from an early
+service at their church, when they were attacked by a Moslem man,
+who tore the gold coins from their heads and necks. The terrified
+women could hardly reach their own homes, so stunned were they by the
+harsh treatment of the robbers. The strange sequel to this story is,
+that after a few days a parcel arrived at the house to which the women
+belonged, which on being opened was found to contain all the gold which
+had been wrested from them a few days before. Another lady in Mosul,
+also a Christian, was the proud possessor of a most valuable set of
+jewels. One day everything disappeared. She neither saw nor heard a
+robber, but evidently one must have gained admission to the house,
+for all her jewels were taken; and to this day she has never had a
+clue as to their fate.
+
+I often say to the women in Mosul who sometimes commiserate me on
+having no gold: "Which is better--to have gold for the robbers to
+get, or to have none and be able to go to rest with a quiet mind?" I
+think most of them would prefer to have the gold and risk the rest,
+so devoted are they to it and all jewellery. Every woman, except the
+very poor, has on her marriage, gold coins for her head, gold chains
+for her neck, a golden band for her waist, gold bracelets for the
+arms, and the same for her ankles. Is it any wonder that these form
+attractions which prove too strong for the average robber to resist? I
+was once visiting at the house of a poor Jewess. She was telling me
+how poor she was, as her "man" was ill and could not work; but I said,
+"I expect you have gold?" "Oh yes, of course," was the answer; and
+going to a cupboard she pulled out a secret drawer and showed me her
+store of gold coins and bangles, valued at about £200. Before putting
+away her "gods," she asked me if I thought her hiding-place was secure
+enough against the invasion of robbers. These people certainly lay
+up for themselves treasures where thieves break through and steal,
+the result being that when their "treasures" are taken they are left
+disconsolate. Having nothing better to live for, are they not worthy
+of our love and pity?
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+THE PLEASURES OF DESERT TRAVELLING
+
+    Desert blossoms as a rose--Flowers of the desert--Arabs, their
+    occupation and women--Arab dancing--Robbers of the desert--An
+    army of ten thousand--Five hundred armed men--False alarms--Lost
+    in the desert--Delights and disturbances of travelling.
+
+
+                           "Truth is truth: too true it was,
+                            Gold! She hoarded and hugged it first,
+                            Longed for it, leaned o'er it, loved it--
+                                  Alas!
+                            Till the humour grew to a head and burst,
+                            And she cried at the final pass.
+
+                            Talk not of God, my heart is stone!
+                            Nor lover nor friend--be gold for both!
+                            Gold I lack, and, my all, my own...."
+
+                                                            R. Browning.
+
+
+                        "O that the desert were my dwelling-place."
+
+                                                                  Byron.
+
+
+
+It can with all truth be said that in springtime the Desert of
+Mesopotamia blossoms as a rose. Two years ago we travelled from Mosul
+to Aleppo by the northern route viā Mardin, Diabekir, and Orfa. We left
+Mosul about the 20th June, just as the harvest had all been gathered
+in and the earth had once more resumed its parched-up appearance for
+another summer. No sooner had we left the neighbourhood of Mosul behind
+us than we were surrounded again on all sides by fields of waving
+corn, in many instances still green, and this continued the whole way
+to Aleppo; the harvest becoming later as we travelled north. Where
+the land was not cultivated the wild flowers were a perfect delight,
+and the desert air was filled with their sweetness. In one place the
+effect of these flowers was peculiarly enchanting. As far as the eye
+could see, the fields were covered with hollyhocks of all hues, the
+different shades being grouped together; thus a vast expanse of red
+hollyhocks would be succeeded by a field of white ones, these again
+changing to a delightful mauve. I have never anywhere seen such a
+wealth of wild flowers as we saw in that so-called desert journey from
+Mosul to Mardin. To try to enumerate the countless tiny flowers of the
+desert would be futile; they go very near to rival in number and beauty
+the wild flowers of Palestine. Once we were sitting in a field waiting
+for our caravan, and my husband said he would see how many different
+kinds of flowers he could pick without moving. In a minute or two
+he had gathered over a dozen, all within arm's reach. In that field
+alone there must have been at least a hundred varieties of flowers.
+
+As we approached Aleppo the flowers became scarcer, and fruit-trees
+took their place. One day I was riding on the top of the pack mule,
+when suddenly the animal (who had only one eye) stumbled, and I was
+deposited on the ground before I realised what had happened. Feeling
+rather hot and bruised, I looked about for a place to rest
+in. Fortunately we were near an orchard, so finding a delightfully
+shady tree, we decided to make this our lunching-ground. As we sat
+and rested ripe apricots fell from the tree into our laps. The owner
+of the orchard informed us we could eat as many as we liked--for
+a consideration!
+
+But desert travelling is not all as pleasant as this. Were we to
+retrace our steps a month or two later we should see no beautiful
+flowers or waving corn-fields, nothing but burnt-up desert land.
+
+The direct route from Mosul to Aleppo lies through land almost entirely
+desert. For two whole days nothing is to be seen save an occasional
+Arab encampment, and sometimes not even that.
+
+The Arabs of Mesopotamia belong as a rule to the great Shammar
+tribe. They wander up and down the country living in black tents made
+from camel or goats' hair. When wishing to seek pastures new they
+migrate from one place to another with all their flocks and herds,
+the tending of which forms one of their chief occupations. The Arab
+women are most industrious: in addition to the ordinary cares of
+the family, they fetch the water, carrying it home from the well or
+river in large jars balanced on their heads; they drive the flocks
+to pasture, milking them night and morning; they spin the wool of
+the sheep and goat, and weave it into cloth for the men's garments or
+for the tent canvas. In fact, there is hardly anything the Arab woman
+does not do, while her lord and master passes the time in scouring the
+country on horseback, or settling quarrels with his neighbours. Arabs
+of different tribes are very quick to go to war against each other,
+and will fight for the merest trifle, though blood is rarely shed,
+the consequences of a blood feud being so dreaded. With the Arab it
+must be blood for blood, and once blood has been shed, there can be
+no rest till vengeance has been satisfied.
+
+The Arabs are very proud of their horses, as they have every reason
+to be, a true Arab horse being a lovely creature. As a rule they do
+not shoe their horses at all.
+
+One day two men from an encampment near Mosul were walking along when
+they saw something on the road which attracted their attention. Picking
+it up, they examined it very carefully, turned it over and over, but
+could not come to any satisfactory conclusion regarding it. The object
+under discussion was a horseshoe, but as neither of them had ever seen
+such a thing before they could not guess its use. After discussing it
+gravely for some time one Arab said to the other, "Of course I know
+what it is. This is an old moon which has fallen down from heaven!"
+
+The Arabs are very hospitable people, and were often profuse in their
+invitations for us to eat with them. I have once or twice joined the
+women in sitting round a big cauldron full of "borghol" (crushed corn
+boiled with plenty of fat) and dipping with them into the one dish, and
+thoroughly enjoyed it. When you have a desert appetite it is possible
+to enjoy anything. Once my husband and I accepted an invitation to a
+meal with an Arab, and were regaled with chicken boiled with a green
+vegetable called "barmiya," and pillau. Our host would not eat with us,
+but employed himself brushing the flies away from the food as we ate.
+
+The Arab dance is a very weird performance to watch. The men and women
+all join hands, and shuffle with their feet, at the same time working
+every muscle of the body in a most grotesque fashion. As they warm
+to the dance they get very much excited, yelling and shouting in a
+frantic manner.
+
+These Arabs are the dreaded robbers of the desert, and our guard always
+impressed upon us, when travelling, what a dangerous set of people they
+were. Every speck on the horizon is magnified into a probable Arab;
+and if by chance one is met in the desert, the excitement is great. On
+one occasion we were riding in a very lonely spot when suddenly an Arab
+horseman rode into view. Immediately our gallant guard swooped down
+upon the unfortunate man, asking him what he meant by spying upon our
+movements, for they did not think it possible that he would be there
+alone if it were not for that object. The Arab assured us he had no
+such intentions, but had only come to meet a friend whom he believed
+to be in our caravan. However, our escort would not credit his story,
+so took him prisoner till we had safely passed the dangerous part,
+and then allowed him to return. We could not help wondering whether,
+if there had been twenty Arabs instead of one, our guard would have
+been so brave.
+
+Another time we were crossing a huge track of waterless desert,
+said to be infested with marauding Arab tribes, when suddenly we
+saw the escort becoming highly excited, waving their guns about,
+preparatory to galloping off. Before we had time to ask what it
+was all about they were off. We were then driving in a carriage,
+so making inquiries from our driver were assured it was nothing,
+only he pointed ominously to a long black line seen far away in the
+distance. Our servant assured us this was the shadow of the mountain,
+but this was only said to reassure us in case we felt alarmed.
+
+The "black line" appeared to be steadily advancing, every moment
+becoming more and more like a huge army of mounted men marching
+straight for us. Our driver, thinking, no doubt, of the probable
+capture of his horses by the robbers, lashed up the poor beasts into
+a gallop, urging them on ever faster and faster till they could go no
+quicker. Our servant, who was sitting on the box-seat, made valiant
+attempts to draw off our thoughts from the impending danger, as he
+thought the "khatoun" would be much frightened. But the "khatoun" was
+not to be blindfolded, and much preferred to see and know what was
+going on. By this time the "army" had assumed enormous proportions,
+for as each section appeared in sight, another one loomed behind,
+away in the distance. Already in my mind I resignedly (?) bade
+farewell to all the contents of our boxes, as I pictured the Arabs
+ruthlessly breaking them open and spreading the contents on the
+ground for inspection and division. We soon saw that we must give
+up the race, for every moment brought us nearer our dreaded enemies;
+till just as we reached the top of a small rise in the ground we came
+face to face with our "army of soldiers." "Alhamd'llillah!" they were
+nothing more alarming than a huge cavalcade of about 10,000 camels
+being taken to water in companies of 500, each company being in charge
+of a drover, the order and regularity with which they walked giving
+the impression that they were regiments of mounted soldiers. I fancy
+the alarm of the guards and driver was only assumed for our benefit,
+for on our return journey they began the same story at the identical
+spot, and there again, sure enough, was the steady advancing line;
+but this time we were wiser, and could laugh at our would-be alarmists.
+
+Another time we had just crossed a river at the end of a long day's
+march, and were enjoying a well-earned rest and cup of tea, when our
+escort came up in great distress of mind to say that he had just heard
+that a band of 500 armed men had that morning crossed the river with
+the avowed intention of lying in wait for the Feringhi caravan and
+attacking it. We were getting used to alarms of this kind, and at first
+only laughed at their anxious faces; but they were so persistent in
+their entreaties that we should not remain on that side of the river,
+that we began to think that perhaps, after all, this time they might
+have foundation for their fears. So we made a compromise to the effect
+that, if they wished, we would pack up and move on to some village,
+although we were very tired. So with this they had to be content, and
+it was arranged that at midnight we were to start. However, just before
+turning in for a short rest, the guard again made their appearance,
+this time to say they had considered that it would not be at all
+safe to travel by night, and that we had better wait till daylight,
+adding in the usual way: "But do not be afraid; we will watch all
+night long." So we all retired very thankfully to rest. It was a very
+hot night, and being unable to sleep I went outside the tent door
+for a little air, and found our gallant guard all fast asleep and
+snoring. In the morning they assured us that they had never closed
+their eyes all night, but had sat up watching for robbers!!
+
+We had experienced once in Persia the pleasant sensation of being
+lost when alone in the desert. In the Turkish-Arabian desert we,
+in company with the whole caravan, were once lost, and spent many
+weary hours wandering about seeking for our right road in vain. It
+was a day or two after leaving Diabekir; our escort, reduced to one
+soldier as the road was considered fairly safe, was quite sure he
+knew the way. Our muleteer and servants had never travelled that
+road before, so we were completely in the hands of one man; but as
+he seemed quite sure, we did not trouble about it, knowing that these
+men are always on the road acting as escort. But we soon found that we
+were trusting to a broken reed, so far as his knowledge as a guide was
+concerned. We started one day on what we supposed to be a short stage,
+but to our surprise it seemed to lengthen out into a longer one than
+usual, till we began to despair of ever reaching the end. At last,
+when sunset was a thing of the past, we began to suspect that our
+guide was not too sure of his where-abouts; and this suspicion soon
+changed to certainty when we suddenly found ourselves on the top of a
+steep bank, down which it was impossible for the animals to climb. Our
+clever guide then confessed that he did not know where we were.
+
+It was now quite dark, and we had been riding since early morning,
+so felt pretty tired; but our muleteer said it was quite out of the
+question to stay where we were, as there was no water for the animals,
+and the hills with which we were surrounded were known to be full of
+robbers. So we wandered on and on and on, listening in vain for some
+sound of habitation and hearing none, longing even to hear the joyful
+sound of the barking of dogs or croaking of frogs, telling of life and
+water; but our longings were not to be realised that night. At last,
+about ten o'clock, we said we could not possibly go any further; so,
+amidst much discontent and fear on the part of the men, we dismounted
+and declared our intention of staying where we were till dawn. The
+animals were all tethered, and we all sat round in a circle, so that
+if the robbers came we should be able to show a good front. The men
+appeared to be quite frightened, and declared they would not sleep,
+but each would take his turn at watching. We were too sleepy to
+care much whether the robbers came or not, so wrapping ourselves in
+blankets we were soon fast asleep. Awaking about half-an-hour later,
+I looked out to see how the "watchers" were getting on, and saw that
+they were all fast asleep, covered up in their abas or long cloaks. I
+soon followed their example and slept till morning, no robbers having
+come in the night to disturb our slumbers. We discovered that we had
+wandered a good distance out of our way, but found the right path soon
+after nine o'clock, and very thankful we all were to obtain water to
+drink--the animals more so than any of us, perhaps.
+
+Travelling in the desert is very pleasant if the stage is not a very
+long one. To start about sunrise or a little after, ride three or
+four hours, then have a lunch of bread and melons, and finish up
+with another three hours' ride, makes a very pleasant picnic; but
+when the stage takes twelve or thirteen hours to do, the pleasure
+becomes a burden. At the end of a short stage it is delightful to
+sit outside our tent and enjoy the cool breeze of the desert, and
+watch the stars peeping out one after the other. Sometimes, however,
+the weather is not such as to allow of this form of enjoyment. When we
+were coming home in 1907, in crossing the desert we came in for some
+tremendously heavy thunderstorms. One night we were simultaneously
+awakened by a tremendous gust of wind which threatened to bring
+down the tent. We sprang up and clung to the poles; but thinking the
+whole structure was bound to fall, and preferring to be outside, I
+forsook my pole to which I had been clinging, and rushed out into the
+pouring rain. My husband went to call some of the men, and found them
+all happily asleep in the carriage: with great difficulty he awoke
+them, and together they made secure all the tent-pegs. By this time
+the great fury of the storm was over, and we crept inside the tent,
+wet, cold, and miserable. Wonderful to say, neither of us caught cold
+after our adventure. The next morning we spread all our wet bedding,
+&c., in the sun to dry; and just as it was nearly ready, down came
+another storm and soaked everything again. Such are some of the joys
+of travelling in the desert.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+PIONEER MEDICAL MISSION WORK IN MOSUL (NINEVEH) [6]
+
+    Winning the confidence of the people--Native surgery--Difficulties
+    to be overcome--Backward patients--Encouraging work--Prevalent
+    diseases--Lunatics--Possible future of Mesopotamia.
+
+
+                                "... My soul is full
+                    Of pity for the sickness of this world;
+                    Which I will heal, if healing may be found!"
+
+                                                          Sir E. Arnold.
+
+
+It is often thought that in the East, whenever an English doctor
+arrives at a city, patients throng to him from all quarters. This
+is only partially true, at least in the near East. If medicine and
+attendance are granted free indiscriminately, doubtless at first
+crowds will attend the out-patient department, many coming merely out
+of curiosity. If good work is to be done, it is better to make some
+charge, however small, exempting only the very poor. This principle
+has, I believe, been adopted by all our medical missionaries, and
+fees thus earned go to help in making the work self-supporting.
+
+The European doctor in Persia or Turkey has first to win the confidence
+of the people, and this is sometimes no easy matter. On our arrival
+in Mosul we rented a house in the centre of the city, which had two
+compounds. We lived in the inner compound, and made the outer into
+a dispensary and small hospital.  At first everything looked rather
+hopeless, the house being an old one and nearly in ruins. However, we
+made a big stable into a waiting-room for the patients; other rooms
+were patched up and transformed into consulting-room, dispensary,
+operating theatre, and wards, all of a most primitive kind. In this
+great city of 60,000 to 80,000 people our staff consisted of my wife
+and me and two native assistants, who had been trained in our Baghdad
+Medical Mission.
+
+There was no lack of physicians in the city, but excluding two or
+three Turkish army doctors, and one or two others with Constantinople
+diplomas, the rest were quacks of the most pronounced type. Nearly
+every old lady in the city thinks herself competent to treat
+diseases of the eye, the barbers are the surgeons, bone-setters
+abound, hereditary physicians are by no means scarce. These latter
+inherit "herbal prescriptions" from their forefathers, and though
+now forbidden to practise by the Turkish Government, yet contrive
+to visit many houses as a "friend" after dark, and earn enough for
+a livelihood. The Dominicans (who have a large Mission in Mosul)
+also give away many medicines, and have now a qualified native
+doctor. But though there is much "physicking" in Mosul, but little
+surgery is done, and that gives the opportunity for the European
+doctor to step in. Arab surgery is of the crudest description. Let
+one sample suffice. A poor Arab woman was brought to the dispensary,
+soon after we started work, by her father. She complained of not being
+able to breathe through her nose. On examining her throat I found that
+the upper air passage had become shut off from the back of the throat
+as a result of old inflammation. Upon further inquiry I elicited the
+following history. Two years before, the patient had developed a bad
+sore throat. Her father took her to the native surgeon, who had the
+poor woman's mouth held forcibly open, while he proceeded to cure
+the sore throat by rubbing it with a red-hot flattened piece of iron!
+
+Gradually we commenced to win the confidence of the people: they
+came in ever-increasing numbers to the dispensary. Gathered together
+in the waiting-room would be a crowd composed of many different
+nationalities--Christians, Moslems, Jews, Kurds from the mountains,
+Bedouins from the desert, Yezidees (the so-called devil-worshippers),
+a motley throng, listening quietly and without interruption to the
+reading and exposition of the Gospel, ere passing one by one through
+the doctor's consulting-room, for the treatment of their multitudinous
+diseases. The medical missionary is called upon to do his best to cure
+every ailment; he must be ready to accept heavy responsibilities,
+there are no "specialists" to consult, often he is without the
+help of any trained nurse, and in pioneer work, at least, he has no
+properly equipped hospital, and must perforce perform most serious
+operations under the worst possible conditions. In addition to all
+this, in lands under Mohammedan rule there is always the risk of a
+riot if a patient should die in a Christian hospital, especially on
+the operating table. Yet despite all these drawbacks, it is a grand
+life, revealing to a man his own utter weakness, and making him rely
+more and more upon his God.
+
+Soon we were able to commence admitting in-patients, being forced to
+limit admission to surgical cases. At first there was considerable
+difficulty in getting the patients to come on the actual day fixed
+for the operation; each one was anxious for his neighbour to be the
+first. Finally I was compelled to threaten to put a black mark against
+the name of any patient who had agreed to come in for operation and
+then failed to put in an appearance, adding that that patient would
+have to wait a long time before having a chance offered a second
+time. This had the desired effect, a woman needing a small eyelid
+operation being the first to brave the terrors of the Feringhi
+hospital.
+
+In due course, instruments and dressings all having been prepared,
+the patient, in a condition of mortal terror, was led into the
+operating room, and induced to lie on the table. But alas, her fears
+gained the mastery, and she instantly jumped up, ran out of the room,
+and disappeared from the dispensary. This was not encouraging, but a
+few days later a little Jew boy suffering from vesical stone (a very
+common disease in Mosul, especially amongst children) was brought to
+the hospital by his father. We persuaded him to enter the hospital
+with his boy, and thus finally gained our first in-patient. The stone
+having been removed, and the boy making a good recovery, we had no
+further difficulty in getting in-patients. Our six wooden beds soon
+all had occupants, then we added six more beds; finally, obtaining
+a neighbouring house for our own residence, we made our old house
+(the inner compound) into a small hospital for women and children.
+Thus we were able to accommodate twenty-four patients, and as each
+had at least one friend, we often had over fifty people resident
+on the premises. It is this in-patient work that gives the most
+encouraging opportunities to the medical missionary. There in his
+little hospital he has patients of all creeds, lying side by side;
+many have been relieved or cured by operation, and will listen
+gratefully to all the teaching they can get. Each patient before
+the operation hears the doctor pray a short prayer, asking God to
+bless the operation and cause it to be successful. Day after day,
+week after week, he receives instruction, and gains an entirely new
+idea of what Christianity really is, and when he leaves the mission
+hospital and returns to his home, whether in the city or in a distant
+mountain village, all his old bitter opposition to Christianity has
+disappeared, and often he will send other patients for treatment to
+the English mission. The following statistics, for two years only,
+may prove interesting, as showing the far-reaching influence of even
+a badly equipped, undermanned medical mission:--
+
+
+      Total attendance of out-patients                 24,519
+      Operations performed  {197 Major}                   569
+                            {372 Minor}
+      Total number of in-patients                         288
+      Number of villages and towns, excluding Mosul,
+      from which patients have come to the dispensary     348
+
+
+This last item is especially interesting; excluding Mosul (from which
+naturally most of our patients are drawn), 348 different towns and
+villages (some as many as ten days' journey) have sent us patients,
+and yet the work is barely started!
+
+To illustrate the effect of a medical mission in disarming opposition,
+I may add that, in 1907, when it was feared that, owing to the need
+for retrenchment, the Society would have to close the work in Mosul,
+a petition, signed by most of the prominent Mohammedan residents,
+including the chief mullahs, was brought to me, asking that I would
+remit it at once to the Society. It was a request that the Medical
+Mission should not be withdrawn, as it had been such a boon to the
+inhabitants of the city. In a very wonderful manner God heard and
+answered our prayers, and the Mission is not to be closed, but rather
+it is hoped to equip it more thoroughly.
+
+The operations most frequently called for in Mosul are those for
+"cataract" and vesical stone, but patients come with many other
+diseases, both surgical and medical. The city is full of phthisis; the
+insanitary conditions under which the vast majority of the inhabitants
+live favour its rapid dissemination. Smallpox and typhoid fever are
+very common, and once these diseases have been definitely diagnosed,
+neither the patient nor his friends will permit any further medical
+treatment. For the latter disease the patient is kept on fairly strict
+diet until he "perspires." This to the native mind denotes the end
+of all possible danger, so he is then pressed to eat anything and
+everything, with disastrous results. Malaria, dysentery, hepatic
+abscesses are also rife; there have also been epidemics of cholera
+and plague, but not of late years. Once the projected Baghdad Railway
+(which will pass through Mosul) is an accomplished fact, we may expect
+the importation of plague from the south, unless the most stringent
+precautions are taken.
+
+The Bedouin Arab can rarely be persuaded to stop in the city; after
+the freedom of life in the desert, he feels stifled within the four
+walls of a house. Ere leaving Mosul I had a curious demonstration of
+this fact. An old blind Arab was brought to me by his son, suffering
+from double cataract. I told him that by means of a simple operation
+he might once again be able to see, but that he would have to stay
+in the hospital for a few days. He indignantly refused, saying he
+would rather remain blind the rest of his life than sleep beneath a
+roof. In vain did his son plead with him, and finding that I would
+not operate at once and allow him to be treated as an out-patient,
+the old man went sorrowfully away.
+
+Every in-patient admitted had to bring a friend to help to nurse him,
+as we had no proper hospital equipment and no trained nurse. Only twice
+in the three years did I break this rule, both times with disastrous
+results. The first was a poor old man from a village some days' journey
+from Mosul. He was poor and friendless, also blind with "cataract";
+reluctantly I allowed myself to be influenced by his pathetic
+pleadings, and admitted him without any one to look after him. Prior
+to his admission he had been bitten on the calf of one leg by a dog,
+and complaining of pain from this wound, we dressed it with a simple
+boracic fomentation. Unfortunately this dressing was forgotten and
+left on the leg. The eye was in due course operated upon successfully,
+and the patient received the usual strict injunction to lie still for
+twenty-four hours. At the first dressing everything seemed all right;
+two days later I found to my sorrow that the eye had suppurated, and
+that there was no hope of saving the vision. The strictest inquiry was
+at once instituted, but for some time we could discover no clue as to
+how the eye had become infected; then the truth came out. It appeared
+that the second night after the operation the old man commenced to
+feel a slight pricking pain in the eye that had been operated upon
+(not an uncommon symptom after "cataract" extraction, with no bad
+significance as a rule). The pain seemed similar to that which he
+had felt in his leg, which had been relieved by the application of
+the boracic fomentation. The patient reasoned thus with himself:
+"It is night time, I had better not call for the doctor; but the
+medicine on my eye is evidently doing no good, while that put on my
+leg cured a similar pain to this at once, so I had better take off
+this bandage from my eye and replace it with the one on my leg"! This
+he had proceeded to do, and consequently lost his newly acquired sight.
+
+The other case was somewhat similar, but the patient was a fanatical
+Moslem priest, whom I afterwards found out was a well-known "majnoon"
+(madman). He also had been admitted alone, and we had but little
+trouble with him until after the operation (also for "cataract") had
+been performed. A few hours later my assistant came running to me,
+and said: "Doctor, that old cataract patient declares that he must
+and he will say his prayers. We have done our best to prevent him,
+but in vain." Now a Mohammedan, before he prays, performs certain
+ablutions, which include washing his hands and face; so I at once ran
+up to the ward, but, alas! we arrived too late. The old priest had
+taken off his bandage, washed his face and hands, said his prayers,
+and was quite unable to understand why the Hakim Sahib should be
+angry! We gave the poor old man some lotion and a shade for his eye,
+and sent him back to his home (as he lived in Mosul), refusing to
+accept any further responsibility. Some weeks later my assistant met
+the old priest in the bazaar, quite pleased with himself, for he had
+actually obtained sufficient sight to find his way about alone.
+
+Fortunately the majority of the patients are more reasonable,
+and quickly learn to submit more or less to "hospital
+regulations." Children sometimes proved troublesome, especially boys,
+when accompanied by a crowd of relations. I remember one morning, when
+making my daily round, coming across a group of people surrounding a
+little boy six years of age. He had been ordered a dose of castor oil,
+and had made up his obstinate little mind that he would not take the
+nasty stuff. Being a boy, and only son and heir, he had been spoilt
+most royally. Father, mother, aunt, grandmother, and friends each
+in turn tried persuasion, varied by gentle threats, all in vain. He
+beat and (I am sorry to say) cursed the women, his mother included,
+and sullenly refused to accept the medicine from his father, despite
+sundry promises of sweets, money, &c.
+
+After watching the scene with some amusement I stepped forward, took
+the cup containing the obnoxious castor oil, and forcibly administered
+the dose without regarding the boy's shrieks and tears. Then I read
+the parents a little lecture upon the evil result of spoiling their
+children, which I fear had but scant result.
+
+Often do I feel ashamed as I note how patiently pain and diseases
+are borne by these poor people. It is always "the will of God," and
+therefore there is no use complaining, and little use rebelling. Time
+after time have I had to gently break the news to some poor patient,
+who may have come long distances to see the English doctor, that his
+blindness could not be cured by operation, being caused by what is
+popularly known as black cataract (glaucoma). A few (usually women)
+would go away weeping, but the vast majority both of men and women
+would quietly respond, "Alhamd'llillah" (Praise be to God), with but
+little sign of emotion.
+
+So far as I know there is but one asylum for cases of mental diseases
+in the whole of the Turkish Empire, and that one is at Asfariyeh,
+near Beyrout, and belongs to an English society. The usual method of
+dealing with lunatics in Mosul is, if they are apparently harmless,
+that they are allowed to wander about freely and treated kindly;
+but once they develop symptoms of mania they are treated as wild
+beasts, put into a dark room, and chained to a wall. But we possess
+a specialist in "mental diseases" in Mosul, belonging to an old
+Mohammedan family, who has a great reputation for the treatment of
+"lunatics." In the courtyard of his house he has had dug several
+deep wells, and beside each well is placed a large tub, having a hole
+in the bottom which communicates with the well.  The poor madman is
+made to work from sunrise to sunset, drawing water from the well and
+pouring it into the perforated tub, being told that he may leave off
+when he has filled the tub. If he refuses to work, he is unmercifully
+beaten. Several cures are said to have resulted from this treatment.
+
+There is nothing so potent as the in-patient work of a hospital in
+overcoming opposition. Amongst our numerous "cataract" patients was
+an Arab from Singar (a mountainous district near Mosul). He came
+armed with a perfectly unnecessary introduction, in the shape of a
+letter from one of the chief Mohammedans in the city. After he had
+regained his sight and had left the hospital, ere returning to his
+mountain home he went to this "big" Moslem to thank him. He found
+himself the centre of a large and curious throng, who questioned him
+severely upon his experiences in the "Christian" hospital. Some of
+the more fanatical (it was in the early days of the Mission) did
+not scruple to speak against the hospital and the English hakim;
+but, like the man in St. John's Gospel, this Arab was not afraid to
+testify of what had been done for him, "for," said he, "you can say
+what you like--one thing I know, before I was blind, now I can see."
+
+But enough--I fear to tire my readers; but ere closing I would like
+just to refer to the possible future of Mesopotamia. One thing is
+certain, a few years more will exhibit great changes. I have already
+referred to the Baghdad Railway. As I write it is rumoured that the
+German Government have at last obtained a further concession from
+the Sultan of Turkey, which will allow them to continue the line
+another five hundred miles, piercing Mount Taurus and reaching near
+to the city of Mardin (some ten days' journey north of Mosul). When
+this is accomplished the rest of the work is quite simple. The line
+from Mardin to Baghdad (passing through Mosul) should present no
+difficulties, and Mosul (with the ruins of Nineveh) will become easy
+of access from Europe.
+
+In the next place there is the question of the navigation of the
+Tigris. Ere long there is no doubt that boats will be allowed to come
+up the river from Baghdad to Mosul, and possibly on up to Diabekir
+(300-400 miles north of Mosul). This will mean an enormous increase
+in trade, both in imports and exports.
+
+Finally, there is that fascinating problem of the irrigation of the
+Mesopotamian desert. The remains of old canals are still visible,
+and it needs nothing but an energetic government willing to spend
+a comparatively small sum, plus the services of a capable engineer,
+to transform the whole of that desert between the two great rivers
+Euphrates and Tigris into a veritable Garden of Eden, even as it
+must have been in the days of old, when huge armies were able to
+find sufficient provender for man and beast throughout the whole of
+that vast region. The "finale" of that great province, containing the
+ruins of so many ancient cities, has not yet been written; and there
+are many signs which tend to suggest to the thoughtful observer that,
+ere another century has passed, Mesopotamia may once again take its
+place, and that no mean position, amongst the kingdoms of the earth!
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NOTES
+
+
+[1] "A Year amongst the Persians."
+
+[2] By Dr. A. Hume-Griffith.
+
+[3] By Dr. A. Hume-Griffith.
+
+[4] By Dr. A. Hume-Griffith.
+
+[5] Extract from "The Literary History of the Arabs," by
+R. A. Nicholson, M.A.
+
+[6] By Dr. A. Hume-Griffith.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish
+Arabia, by M. E. Hume-Griffith and A. Hume-Griffith
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia, by 
+M. E. Hume-Griffith and A. Hume-Griffith
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia
+       An account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence
+              amongst the Women of the East
+
+Author: M. E. Hume-Griffith
+        A. Hume-Griffith
+
+Release Date: April 16, 2012 [EBook #39463]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEHIND THE VEIL IN PERSIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project
+Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously
+made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<div class="front">
+<div class="div1 cover"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first"></p>
+<div class="figure xd20e113width"><img src="images/frontcover.jpg" alt=
+"Original Front Cover." width="439" height="720"></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1 frenchtitle"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first xd20e119">Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish
+Arabia</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1 frontispiece"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first"></p>
+<div class="figure xd20e124width" id="p000"><img src="images/p000.jpg"
+alt="The Author and her Husband in Bakhtian Costume" width="481"
+height="720">
+<p class="figureHead">The Author and her Husband in Bakhtian
+Costume</p>
+<p class="first">Dr. Hume-Griffith&rsquo;s dress is that of a chief,
+and is of blue cloth lined with red flannel: and the lady&rsquo;s is of
+richly-brocaded velvet, and her head-coverings are of very pretty
+muslin, embroidered with silk.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1 titlepage"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first"></p>
+<div class="figure xd20e133width"><img src="images/titlepage.gif" alt=
+"Original Title Page." width="428" height="720"></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="titlePage">
+<div class="docTitle">
+<div class="mainTitle">Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish
+Arabia</div>
+<div class="subTitle">An Account of an Englishwoman&rsquo;s Eight
+Years&rsquo; Residence Amongst the Women of the East</div>
+</div>
+<div class="byline">By<br>
+<span class="docAuthor">M. E. Hume-Griffith</span><br>
+<i>With Narratives of Experiences in Both Countries</i><br>
+By<br>
+<span class="docAuthor">A. Hume-Griffith</span>, M.D., D.P.H.<br>
+With 37 Illustrations and a Map</div>
+<div class="docImprint">Philadelphia<br>
+J. B. Lippincott Company<br>
+London: Seeley &amp; Co. Ltd.<br>
+<span class="docDate">1909</span></div>
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e175" href="#xd20e175" name=
+"xd20e175">vi</a>]</span></p>
+<div class="div1 imprint"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first xd20e119">Printed by <span class="sc">Ballantyne,
+Hanson &amp; Co.</span></p>
+<p class="xd20e119">At the Ballantyne Press, Edinburgh <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="xd20e184" href="#xd20e184" name=
+"xd20e184">v</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1 dedication"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first xd20e119">I DEDICATE<br>
+THIS BOOK<br>
+TO<br>
+<i>MY HUSBAND</i><br>
+IN LOVING REMEMBRANCE OF<br>
+EIGHT HAPPY YEARS<br>
+1900&ndash;1908 <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e203" href=
+"#xd20e203" name="xd20e203">vii</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1 preface"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Preface</h2>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">I have endeavoured in this book to give some account
+of that inner life of the East of which a traveller, however
+keen-sighted and intelligent, seldom gains more than a passing glimpse.
+In a residence of eight years in Persia and Turkish Arabia I have
+become intimate with a large circle of friends whose life is passed
+behind the veil, and as the wife of a medical missionary I have had
+unusual opportunities of winning their confidence and becoming
+acquainted with their thoughts. Of direct missionary effort I have said
+very little, but I hope that the picture I have given may arouse
+interest in lives spent amongst surroundings so different from our
+own.</p>
+<p>It is impossible for any one, however unversed in politics, who has
+lived so long in Mesopotamia, not to be deeply interested in the future
+of the country. While all Europe has been filled with astonishment at
+the bloodless revolution in Turkey, we who have become familiar with
+its inner life are touched with a feeling of admiration and something
+akin to awe. Whatever misgivings there may be as to the permanence of
+this reformation we hope and trust that it will endure.</p>
+<p>Of one imminent change the effect is likely to be far-reaching. The
+new government has secured the services of Sir William Wilcox as their
+adviser <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e213" href="#xd20e213" name=
+"xd20e213">viii</a>]</span>in great irrigation schemes. Irrigation in
+Mesopotamia will change the whole face of the country; vast stretches
+of desert will be transformed into a garden, ruined villages will be
+restored, a new kingdom may be born, and Babylon possibly rebuilt.
+Mosul, practically on the site of ancient Nineveh, will become easy of
+access from Europe by means of the Baghdad railway and the restored
+navigation of the Tigris. Its waste places may be filled with corn, and
+the city be crowned once more with some of its ancient glory.</p>
+<p>I should like to take this opportunity of thanking all those who
+have kindly allowed me to use their photographs, amongst them the Rev.
+C. H. Stileman, Dr. Saati of Mosul, and the Publishing Department of
+the Church Missionary Society.</p>
+<p>I am indebted to Professor Brown&rsquo;s valuable book entitled
+&ldquo;A Year amongst the Persians&rdquo; for information on the Babi
+religion, and to Sir A. H. Layard&rsquo;s classical work on the
+excavations of Nineveh, which I have frequently had occasion to
+consult.</p>
+<p class="signed">M. E. H.-G. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e221"
+href="#xd20e221" name="xd20e221">ix</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="toc" class="div1 contents"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Contents</h2>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first tocChapter">Part I</p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter I</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch1">Early Impressions</a>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">Page</span></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Start for Persia&mdash;Arrival at
+Isphahan&mdash;Departure for Kerman&mdash;The Land of the Lion and the
+Sun&mdash;A rainy day and its
+effects&mdash;Eclipse&mdash;Locusts&mdash;Sand-storms&mdash;Land of
+cats&mdash;Modes of conveyance&mdash;Inhabitants
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">17</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter II</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2">Kerman</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Short history of Kerman&mdash;Its
+overthrow&mdash;City of beggars&mdash;Story of the fort&mdash;The
+jackal&rsquo;s &ldquo;tale of woe&rdquo; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">30</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter III</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch3">Persian Industries</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Carpet-making&mdash;How to tell a good
+carpet&mdash;How to make a carpet&mdash;The cry of the
+children&mdash;Shawl
+manufactures&mdash;Calico-printing&mdash;Brass-work&mdash;Agricultural
+industries&mdash;Water disputes&mdash;Kan&acirc;ts&mdash;Poppy
+crops&mdash;Wheat and corn&mdash;Tobacco-growing
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">40</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter IV</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch4">The Climate of Persia</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Resht, Teheran, Isphahan&mdash;Dryness of
+atmosphere&mdash;Cellars&mdash;Roof life&mdash;Children attacked by
+jackals&mdash;Chequered history of work in Kerman
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">50</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter V</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch5">Holidays in Persia</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">How to ensure a prosperous
+journey&mdash;Natanz&mdash;Astonishment of natives at sight of
+hairpins&mdash;Pulivagoon&mdash;Mahoon&mdash;Aliab&acirc;d&mdash;Prince
+under canvas&mdash;Visit from a Persian princess&mdash;A Persian deer
+hunt &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">59</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VI</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch6">Social Life in Persia</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Kerman&mdash;House-hunting and
+building&mdash;White ants&mdash;Housekeeping in Kerman&mdash;Servant
+question&mdash;Truth <i>v.</i> falsehood&mdash;Abdul
+Fateh&mdash;Bagi&mdash;Recreations&mdash;Some exciting
+rides&mdash;Persian etiquette&mdash;Dinner at the governor&rsquo;s
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">71</span>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e300" href="#xd20e300" name=
+"xd20e300">x</a>]</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VII</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch7">The Women of Persia</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Home Life&mdash;Anderoon, women&rsquo;s
+quarters&mdash;Jealousy in the anderoon&mdash;Anderoon of Khan Baba
+Khan&mdash;Two days in an anderoon&mdash;H.R.H. Princess
+Hamadan&eacute; Sultan&eacute;&mdash;Visit to the anderoon of H.R.H.
+the Zil-es-Sultan &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">84</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VIII</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch8">More About Persian Women</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Costumes&mdash;Wedding festivities&mdash;Wedding
+dinner&mdash;Kindness of Persian husbands&mdash;Story of
+brutality&mdash;Divorce&mdash;Aids to beauty&mdash;Degradation and
+cruelty of women &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">95</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter IX</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch9">Some Points in the Moslem
+Faith</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Fasts and feasts&mdash;Seyyids, Dervishes,
+Mullahs&mdash;Legends of the drowning mullah, and the yard-square hole
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">106</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter X</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch10">Other Religious Sects</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">The B&aacute;b and Babism&mdash;Short sketch of
+life of the B&aacute;b&mdash;His imprisonment and
+execution&mdash;<i>Parsees</i>, or Zoroastrians&mdash;Persecutions of
+Parsees in seventh century&mdash;Sacred writings of Parsees,
+Zendavesta&mdash;Fire-worshipping&mdash;Fire temples&mdash;Holy
+fire&mdash;Parsee wedding&mdash;Costume of women&mdash;Death
+customs&mdash;Burial customs &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">116</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XI</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch11">Desert Delights</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Songs of the desert&mdash;Sunsets, sunrises,
+mirages&mdash;Illness in the desert&mdash;Mehman khanehs,
+caravanserais&mdash;Chappa khanehs&mdash;Lost in the desert&mdash;Its
+cruelties and sadness &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">130</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XII</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch12">Persian Medical Missions</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">The need of them&mdash;Work in
+Isphahan&mdash;The &ldquo;little devil&rdquo; transformed into a
+boy&mdash;Amputation&mdash;Brothers in adversity&mdash;H.R.H.
+Zil-es-Sultan as a patient&mdash;Fanaticism overcome
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">140</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XIII</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch13">Pioneer Medical Mission Work in
+Kerman</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Waiting for drugs and instruments&mdash;Native
+assistant proves a broken reed&mdash;First operation in Kerman&mdash;An
+anxious moment&mdash;Success&mdash;Doctrine of &ldquo;savab&rdquo;
+convenient to the Moslem&mdash;Fanaticism tempered with
+prudence&mdash;Opium slaves&mdash;Persian therapeutics&mdash;Persian
+quacks and their methods&mdash;Sure way of curing cancer&mdash;Hysteria
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">151</span>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e383" href="#xd20e383" name=
+"xd20e383">xi</a>]</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XIV</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch14">Medical Mission Work in
+Yezd</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">A hospital&mdash;A friendly governor&mdash;A
+suspicious case&mdash;Superstition&mdash;The opium habit&mdash;A case
+of cataract&mdash;We return to England &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">164</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Part II</p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter I</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.1">The City of Nineveh</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">The fast of Jonah&mdash;The bridge of
+boats&mdash;Traditions as to ancient history of Mosul&mdash;Elkos,
+birthplace of Nahum the prophet&mdash;Shurg&acirc;t&mdash;Climate of
+Mosul&mdash;Cultivation and industries&mdash;Importance of Mosul
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">173</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter II</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.2">The People of Mosul</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">
+Population&mdash;Moslems&mdash;Christians&mdash;Chaldeans&mdash;Nestorians&mdash;Jacobites&mdash;Arabs&mdash;Kurds&mdash;Jews&mdash;Yezidees&mdash;Recreations&mdash;Warfare
+of the slingers&mdash;Hammam Ali&mdash;The recreation ground of Mosul
+men and women &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">186</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter III</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.3">The River Tigris</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Ancient historical interest&mdash;Garden of
+Eden&mdash;Origin of name
+unknown&mdash;Swiftness&mdash;Sources&mdash;Navigation&mdash;Keleqs&mdash;Bathing,
+fishing, washing&mdash;Crossing rivers &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">198</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter IV</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.4">The Children of Mosul</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Spoiling process&mdash;Despair of the
+parents&mdash;The &ldquo;god&rdquo; of the hareem&mdash;Death by
+burning&mdash;Festivities at birth of boy&mdash;Cradles and cradle
+songs&mdash;School life&mdash;Feast in honour of a boy having read the
+Koran through&mdash;&ldquo;Only a girl&rdquo;&mdash;Girl
+life&mdash;Girl victims of Naseeb&mdash;Marriage
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">208</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter V</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.5">The Moslem Women of
+Mosul</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Beauty behind the veil&mdash;Types of
+beauty&mdash;My dear old friend of 110 years of age&mdash;Aids to
+beauty described&mdash;Pretty children&mdash;Beauty tainted with
+sin&mdash;Imprisonment of women&mdash;Peeps into some
+hareems&mdash;Warm receptions&mdash;A visit from the ladies of a select
+hareem&mdash;Love the magic key to open hearts &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">219</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VI</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.4">Moslem Family Life</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">No home life&mdash;Women equal with the
+beasts&mdash;Evils of divorce&mdash;Naseeb&mdash;The will of
+God&mdash;Truth and falsehood&mdash;Honesty prevalent&mdash;A thief
+caught&mdash;Swearing and
+anti-swearing&mdash;Fighting&mdash;Hair-tearing and
+biting&mdash;Hammam, the ladies&rsquo; club &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">231</span> <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"xd20e465" href="#xd20e465" name="xd20e465">xii</a>]</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VII</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.6">Customs of Mosul</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Wedding ceremonies&mdash;Great expense to
+parents&mdash;Method of procedure&mdash;Funeral customs&mdash;Customs
+at birth&mdash;Some other customs &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">244</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter VIII</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.7">Dreams and Visions</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Ezekiel&rsquo;s vision by the river
+Chebar&mdash;Our vision by the river Khabour&mdash;Rivers
+identical&mdash;&ldquo;A wheel within a wheel&rdquo;&mdash;Babylonish
+emblem of divinity&mdash;Origin of the cherubim&mdash;Dream of a woman
+suffering from cataract&mdash;Effect of dream on her
+character&mdash;Watch and chain recovered by means of a
+&ldquo;faked&rdquo; dream&mdash;Illustration of the doctrine of Kismet
+or Naseeb&mdash;&ldquo;Ghosts&rdquo; in our compound&mdash;Atmosphere
+of ghosts bad for fowls &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">257</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter IX</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.9">Manners and Superstitions in
+Mosul</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Characteristics of inhabitants of
+Mosul&mdash;Social habits&mdash;Love of drink&mdash;An effectual
+cure&mdash;Gambling&mdash;Tel Kaif: a story of Uncle Goro&mdash;The
+Angel of Death, and other titles&mdash;Difficulties over name and
+age&mdash;Some superstitions&mdash;Effect of scent on women&mdash;Birds
+of good omen&mdash;Thieves&mdash;Sheep-killing&mdash;Sheikh
+Matti&mdash;An angel&rsquo;s visit&mdash;Medical
+superstitions&mdash;Cure for hydrophobia &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+<span class="tocPagenum">269</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter X</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.10">The Yezidees</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Gratitude to the
+English&mdash;Persecutions&mdash;&ldquo;Devil-worshippers&rdquo;&mdash;Sun
+and fire worship&mdash;Priesthood&mdash;A visit to Sheikh
+&Acirc;di&mdash;Peacock wands&mdash;A sacred shrine
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">284</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XI</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.11">Travelling in the
+Desert</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Monotony of desert travelling&mdash;A puppy and
+a kitten tragedy&mdash;Accident by the river Euphrates&mdash;Riots in
+Mosul&mdash;Robberies and murder excited by love of gold
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">294</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XII</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.12">The Pleasures of Desert
+Travelling</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Desert blossoms as a rose&mdash;Flowers of the
+desert&mdash;Arabs, their occupation and women&mdash;Arab
+dancing&mdash;Robbers of the desert&mdash;An army of 10,000&mdash;Five
+hundred armed men&mdash;False alarms&mdash;Lost in the
+desert&mdash;Delights and disturbances of travelling
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">307</span></p>
+<p class="tocChapter">Chapter XIII</p>
+<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#ch2.13">Pioneer Medical Mission Work in
+Mosul (Nineveh)</a></p>
+<p class="tocArgument">Winning the confidence of the
+people&mdash;Native surgery&mdash;Difficulties to be
+overcome&mdash;Backward patients&mdash;Encouraging work&mdash;Prevalent
+diseases&mdash;Lunatics&mdash;Possible future of Mesopotamia
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">317</span>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e545" href="#xd20e545" name=
+"xd20e545">xiii</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1 contents"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">List of Illustrations</h2>
+<ul>
+<li>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">Page</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p000">The Author and her Husband in
+Bakhtian Costume</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum"><i>Frontispiece</i></span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p026-1">Persian Conveyances</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">26</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p026-2">A Halt for Lunch</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">26</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p046-1">A Novel Drying Ground</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">46</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p046-2">Persian Mode of
+Irrigation</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">46</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p054-1">A &ldquo;Chimney&rdquo; of
+Yezd</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">54</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p054-2">A Korsi Or Heating
+Contrivance</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">54</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p072-1">House-building in
+Persia</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">72</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p072-2">Persian Shops</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">72</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p076-1">Scene from the Roof of our House
+at Kerman</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">76</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p076-2">A Street in Kerman</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">76</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p086">The Mosque Gate, City of
+Kerman</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">86</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p132-1">A Mountain Pass</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">132</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p132-2">A Caravanserai</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">132</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p142-1">A Very Ancient Bridge</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">142</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p142-2">A Typical Street in
+Baghdad</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">142</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p148-1">Using the X Rays in Julfa
+Hospital</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">148</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p148-2">A Ward in the Julfa
+Hospital</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">148</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p158-1">Opium Making</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">158</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p158-2">The Rich Beggar</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">158</span></li>
+<li><span class="pagenum">[<a id="xd20e697" href="#xd20e697" name=
+"xd20e697">xiv</a>]</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p166-1">Types of Persian Jews</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">166</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p166-2">The Water Square</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">166</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p174">Our Home in Nineveh</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">174</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p176">A Bridge of Boats</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">176</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p180">The Bridge of Boats Over the
+Frozen Tigris</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">180</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p188">A Picnic Party</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">188</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p192">Mutrar Paulus, Syrian Roman
+Catholic Bishop</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">192</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p210-1">Dr. Hume-Griffith&rsquo;s Study
+in Mosul</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">210</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p210-2">Our Drawing-room in
+Julfa</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">210</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p216">A Group of Persian
+Girls</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">216</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p222-1">The Camera in Mosul</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">222</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p222-2">Tired of Play at a
+Picnic</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">222</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p224">An Itinerant Cook preparing
+Kabobs</a></span> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class=
+"tocPagenum">224</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p240">Bread-making</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">240</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p246">A Mosul Bride</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">246</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p259">A Wonderful Vision</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">259</span></li>
+<li><span class="sc"><a href="#p296">Travelling in Winter</a></span>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">296</span></li>
+</ul>
+<p><span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb15" href="#pb15" name=
+"pb15">15</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="body">
+<div class="div0 part">
+<h2 class="main">Part I</h2>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter xd20e825">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;So, after the sore torments of the route,</p>
+<p class="line">Toothache and headache, and the ache of mind,</p>
+<p class="line">And huddled sleep and smarting wakefulness,</p>
+<p class="line">And night and day, and hunger sick at food,</p>
+<p class="line">And twenty-fold relays, and packages</p>
+<p class="line">To be unlocked, and passports to be found,</p>
+<p class="line">And heavy well-kept landscape&mdash;we are glad</p>
+<p class="line">Because we entered (Persia) in the Sun.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">D. G. Rossetti.</span></p>
+</div>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb17" href="#pb17" name=
+"pb17">17</a>]</span>
+<div id="ch1" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="super">Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter I</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Early Impressions</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Start for Persia&mdash;Arrival at
+Isphahan&mdash;Departure for Kerman&mdash;The Land of the Lion and the
+Sun&mdash;A rainy day and its
+effects&mdash;Eclipse&mdash;Locusts&mdash;Sand-storms&mdash;Land of
+cats&mdash;Modes of conveyance&mdash;Inhabitants.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;&rsquo;Tis the sight of a lifetime to behold</p>
+<p class="line">The great shorn sun as you see it now</p>
+<p class="line">Across eight miles of undulant gold</p>
+<p class="line">That widens landward, weltered and rolled</p>
+<p class="line">With patches of shadow and crimson stains.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Lowell.</span></p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Shadow maker, shadow slayer, arrowing light from
+clime to clime.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Lord Tennyson.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Our life in Persia extended over a period of three
+years, dating from the spring of 1900 to that of 1903.</p>
+<p>It was with great joy I heard the news, early in February of 1900,
+that my husband had been appointed by the Church Missionary Society to
+open medical work in Kerman, and that we were to start almost at once.
+Within a month we were married, had bought our outfit, bid sorrowful
+farewells to our relations and friends, and started for the romantic
+land of Persia. From London to Isphahan took us just nine weeks, as we
+were delayed by illness for some weeks both in Russia and in the
+Persian Desert. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb18" href="#pb18" name=
+"pb18">18</a>]</span>However, on 9th May we entered the beautiful city
+of Isphahan, to find a warm welcome awaiting us from friends there.
+This place will always have a very warm corner in my heart, for it was
+there we made our first home. The doctor in charge of the work at Julfa
+(the Christian quarter of Isphahan) having left on furlough, my husband
+was asked to remain there till his return, which he accordingly did. It
+was not till the following spring that we left for Kerman. Thus our
+first impressions of this land of light and darkness were gathered from
+Isphahan and its neighbourhood. There is no after time so full of
+interest to those who live abroad as the first year spent in a new life
+and country, gleaning fresh ideas, seeing new sights, gaining
+experiences often dearly bought, but which must be purchased ere the
+newcomer can settle down to life in the East with any comfort or peace
+of mind.</p>
+<p>The native servants love to obtain posts with fresh comers, knowing
+that for the first few months, at any rate, they will have an
+exceedingly good time, being able to make a huge <i>med&acirc;qal</i>
+(profit) from the unsuspecting Feringhi. I sigh to think of the many
+ways in which we were cheated those first few months of our life in
+Persia, but no one breathed a word to us, realising that our eyes would
+be opened only too soon, and that experience was the most effectual
+teacher. It is a strange fact that all housekeepers new to the land
+think their servants are perfect till they find out, perhaps when too
+late, their foolish delusion.</p>
+<p>From the very first my heart went out in affection to the dear
+Moslem women, and now, after <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb19" href=
+"#pb19" name="pb19">19</a>]</span>eight years spent amongst them, I can
+truly say that my love has deepened, and my sympathies become enlarged,
+for these charming but, alas, too often unhappy followers of
+Mohammed.</p>
+<p>Our knowledge of Persia extends especially to three cities, in each
+of which we spent a year. Isphahan, as we have seen, was our first
+home, then came a year at Kerman, a distance of some 500 miles
+separating the two cities. Finally we spent a very happy year at Yezd,
+that City of Sand, situated midway between Isphahan and Kerman. Of each
+of these cities we shall hear more in other chapters.</p>
+<p>Persia has well been called the Land of the Lion and the Sun.
+Certainly the latter name is well deserved, for the sun is almost
+always shining, and without the brilliant sunshine we should hardly
+recognise it as the land of Persia.</p>
+<p>The symbol of the Lion and the Sun originated in the days when the
+Zoroastrians were the inhabitants of the land. The Sun, being the
+emblem of the Fire Worshippers, was taken as their national badge. The
+Lion was added later because Ali, the grandson of Mohammed, was called
+&ldquo;The Lion of God.&rdquo; The woman&rsquo;s face in the Sun was
+inserted some years later by one of the Persian kings as a tribute to
+his favourite wife.</p>
+<p>The sunshine of Persia forms one of its greatest attractions. Even
+in winter the dull, cloudy days are few and far between. When by chance
+a rainy day does come, the people are so surprised and taken aback that
+they seem paralysed for the time being, and are unable to go about
+their usual business. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb20" href="#pb20"
+name="pb20">20</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The remembrance of our first experience of a rainy day still lingers
+in my memory. We had awakened one morning much later than usual to find
+the sky clouded over and the rain coming down in torrents. I was
+surprised to find that we had not been called as usual, but imagined
+the servants had forgotten to do so. Upon entering the dining-room,
+what was my surprise to find no preparations for a meal. Calling the
+servant, I asked him why breakfast was not ready. At this he seemed
+quite hurt, as he answered, &ldquo;But, Khanum (lady), it is
+raining!&rdquo; This fact was to his mind quite sufficient reason for
+everything. As long as the rain lasted the servants could be prevailed
+upon to do nothing except crouch over the fire and shiver! The moment
+the rain ceased and the sun once more shone out they resumed their
+normal state.</p>
+<p>This constant sunshine is a great boon to the beggars and poor,
+helping to make life endurable for them; they need very little
+clothing, as a rule, to enable them to keep warm. So long as they can
+lie and bask in the sunshine, picking up bread enough to sustain life,
+they trouble very little about working or earning money.</p>
+<p>There is only one place where there is very little sunshine, and
+that is in the hearts and lives of the people. Especially, perhaps, is
+this true in the case of the women of the land, as we shall see
+presently.</p>
+<p>A Persian gentleman once visited England, and on his return to his
+native country was questioned by his friends as to which was the better
+land to live in. His reply was to the effect that in England the houses
+were grander, the scenery more beautiful, <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb21" href="#pb21" name="pb21">21</a>]</span>but that there was no
+sunshine! This lack, to his mind, far outweighed all the other
+advantages which might<a id="xd20e913" name="xd20e913"></a> belong to
+England, and his friends decided that, after all, Persia was the better
+country to live in.</p>
+<p>When there happens to be a cloudy day or night in summer, the result
+is anything but cooling, for the air becomes terribly oppressive, it is
+almost impossible to breathe, and during the night it is quite useless
+to think of or hope for sleep till the clouds have rolled away.</p>
+<p>The natives are very much alarmed when an eclipse of the sun takes
+place, as they are afraid they are going to lose their benefactor.
+Once, while we were in Yezd, the sun was eclipsed. Suddenly hundreds of
+guns and cannons were fired off from all parts of the town. We ran out
+to see what had happened, and were met by our frightened servants
+carrying their guns, who told us that an enormous fish was trying to
+swallow the sun, and that they hoped, by making a terrific noise, to
+frighten it away! Great was their joy and relief when the shadow began
+to pass from the sun.</p>
+<p>Sand-storms are terrible trials in Persia. Quite suddenly, without
+any warning, the light disappears, clouds upon clouds of dust come
+rushing in. Before you have time to shut all the doors and windows,
+everything in the house is covered with a fine white dust. Sand-storms
+are disagreeable and trying to the patience when they find you in the
+house, but when you are caught in a heavy sand-storm out in the desert,
+it is often a source of great danger. If riding, the only possible
+thing to do is to dismount, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb22" href=
+"#pb22" name="pb22">22</a>]</span>cover your head and face as well as
+possible, turn your back to the storm, and hope for the best.</p>
+<p>At other times the light is obliterated in the daytime by a swarm of
+locusts passing overhead. Till I saw this myself I could hardly believe
+it was possible for these little insects to obscure the light of the
+sun as they did. One day in Kerman we were just ready to set off for a
+ride, when suddenly the light vanished, and I thought a fearful
+thunderstorm was about to burst upon us. On looking up we saw what
+appeared to be a huge black cloud hovering overhead: presently this
+descended and resolved itself into myriads of flying insects. As some
+fell to the earth we found them to be locusts from two to three inches
+long. The natives were dreadfully alarmed lest they should settle on
+their fields, as it was springtime, and the ground was already green
+with promise of harvest. Had the locusts settled, it would have meant
+ruin and starvation to many. Fortunately, they passed over that
+time.</p>
+<p>We have seen that Persia is a land of sunshine, we must not forget
+that it is also a land of cats.</p>
+<p>I was amused the other day to see how differently two people can see
+the same thing. In the course of a conversation with a friend who was
+for some years in Persia, I asked him if he did not admire the Persian
+cats very much. &ldquo;Never saw one,&rdquo; was his answer, and he
+maintained that the whole time he was in Persia he never saw a
+long-haired cat. My experience was quite the reverse, for I hardly
+remember ever seeing an ordinary short-haired one during the three
+years we were in Persia. We had <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb23"
+href="#pb23" name="pb23">23</a>]</span>some beautiful white ones, but
+they were very delicate, and generally came to an untimely end. We
+tried to take one to Kerman, but it met with a sad death when only half
+way there.</p>
+<p>Cats are exported on quite a large scale to India and other places.
+They are taken to the coast by horse-dealers, who tether them in much
+the same way as they do their horses.</p>
+<p>One of the late Shahs is said to have been very devoted to cats, and
+always took one with him when he travelled, a special baggage animal
+being reserved for the cage of this favourite pet.</p>
+<p>There are many ways of journeying in Persia, and the would-be
+traveller can take his choice according to his own ideas of comfort and
+convenience. To my mind the most pleasant way of all is to have your
+own horses for riding, and thus be able to set your own pace and not
+have to be bound down to the slow, wearying, never-changing rate of the
+caravan.</p>
+<p>For those who do not care for, or are not strong enough for riding,
+there are many conveyances. Here, again, the traveller has quite a
+large choice of good things. First of all there is the
+&ldquo;kaj&acirc;vah.&rdquo; This consists of two cage-like boxes,
+suspended one on each side of the animal: the interior of these boxes
+sometimes boasts of a little low seat, but as a rule is innocent of any
+such luxury. Two people of about the same weight must sit on each side,
+or the result is disastrous. I remember once being with a large
+caravan. In one of these kaj&acirc;vahs was travelling a Government
+official and his wife. He was very tiny, she was quite the reverse, the
+result being <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb24" href="#pb24" name=
+"pb24">24</a>]</span>that the little man was generally up in the air
+while the opposite side of the kaj&acirc;vah was weighed down nearly to
+the ground. They tried all manner of experiments in their endeavour to
+strike the balance, gathering stones and depositing them in the lighter
+side, tying bags of fuel, &amp;c., to the outside of the kaj&acirc;vah,
+but all of no avail. At last, in disgust and anger, the woman jumped
+out without giving her husband any warning: the result to onlookers was
+ludicrous! The wife refused all that day again to enter the
+kaj&acirc;vah, preferring to walk, till one of the muleteers offered
+her a seat on the top of one of the baggage mules. The little man was
+soon balanced with stones picked up by the wayside, and travelled for
+the rest of that day in peace and comfort. At the end of the stage,
+however, his wife would not speak to him or cook his dinner for him!
+and the man (who was quite the reverse of an ordinary Moslem man) came
+to one of my husband&rsquo;s assistants, begging him to act as
+mediator. In this case the man and woman seem to have exchanged places
+as regards character, the wife being decidedly the master, and he, poor
+man, looked as if he hardly dared call his soul his own. Even amongst
+Moslems there doubtless are some strong-minded women.</p>
+<p>I have travelled many miles in one of these kaj&acirc;vahs, finding
+them very comfortable and restful, after riding for hours. My husband
+had a pair specially made for me, with seats inside, and nicely
+cushioned: these always went with us on our journeys in Persia, so
+that, when I tired of riding, I could rest awhile. While I was not
+using them <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb25" href="#pb25" name=
+"pb25">25</a>]</span>our servants had to take my place, a favour they
+did not always appreciate. When travelling by night, I have slept for
+hours at a stretch in one of these kaj&acirc;vahs, the steady measured
+walk of the mule favouring slumber. Sometimes, however, the monotony is
+broken by the mule suddenly dropping on to its front knees, and you
+find yourself deposited on the ground, shot out like an arrow from its
+bow.</p>
+<p>If this form of conveyance does not appeal to the traveller then
+there is the &ldquo;takhtiravan.&rdquo; This is a most luxurious mode
+of conveyance, and is, as a rule, only used by invalids or high-class
+Moslem ladies. It consists of a box, with doors and windows, measuring
+about six or seven feet by four in length and five in height. The top
+is covered with heavy felt or some material which will keep out the sun
+or the rain, according to which season of the year you are travelling
+in. Inside is placed a mattress with plenty of cushions: the whole is
+built on shafts which are slung between two mules, one in front and one
+behind. The motion is rather like that of a rolling ship, and, unless
+the occupant is a good sailor, the experience is not always a pleasant
+one. I once travelled for a week in one of these conveyances, and on
+arriving at our destination found my back was a mass of bruises. The
+takhtiravan is very good for night travelling, as you can lie flat down
+and sleep, provided the animals keep in step and the road is good. On
+an uneven road the sensation is not too comfortable.</p>
+<p>We once had a never-to-be-forgotten week of torture in a springless
+wagon; it really was too <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb26" href=
+"#pb26" name="pb26">26</a>]</span>terrible. Oh, the jolting, the
+jarring, and the bone shaking! Each day the misery increased, till
+every bone in our bodies was bruised and aching, and every nerve racked
+to its utmost. I should not recommend this mode of conveyance to any
+one contemplating a journey in Persia. When we first went to the Land
+of the Lion and the Sun, carriages were very scarce and very expensive
+south of Teheran. Now they are becoming much more generally used, at
+any rate as far as Isphahan. When we left Kerman in 1902 we drove to
+Yezd in a carriage kindly lent to us by one of the Kerman native
+gentlemen. Albeit the wheels came off occasionally and various other
+accidents took place, still it was a very luxurious way of travelling,
+comparatively speaking. Then, when we finally left Persia in 1903, we
+drove from Isphahan to Teheran in a private carriage belonging to a
+friend who lent it to us for the journey; so that I fully expect by now
+that travelling by carriage has become quite the ordinary mode of
+journeying in Persia.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e952width" id="p026-1"><img src=
+"images/p026-1.jpg" alt="Persian Conveyances" width="585" height="380">
+<p class="figureHead">Persian Conveyances</p>
+<p class="first">The takhtiravan is a slow but comfortable conveyance
+for travelling in. It is a species of sedan-chair, slung on two long
+poles; to these shafts mules are harnessed, one in front and the other
+behind. The Kaj&acirc;vahs are a much less luxurious mode of
+travelling. They consist of two cage-like boxes slung one on each side
+of the mule. If the animal is sure-footed and the balance of the boxes
+maintained, the sensation of riding in them is not unpleasant.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e958width" id="p026-2"><img src=
+"images/p026-2.jpg" alt="A Halt for Lunch" width="582" height="402">
+<p class="figureHead">A Halt for Lunch</p>
+<p class="first">The midday break in the day&rsquo;s march is always
+welcome and refreshing, especially when it is possible to rest in the
+luxury of shade.</p>
+</div>
+<p>The last part of that drive into Teheran has left a vivid
+remembrance on my mind. It was a Saturday, and we were very desirous of
+reaching Teheran that night, otherwise it meant spending Sunday at a
+village near the city, as we did not like travelling on that day. So we
+determined to push on at all costs. To add to our difficulties it began
+to pour with rain soon after starting in the morning, and continued a
+steady drench the whole day. Long before we reached the end of our
+stage we were both wet through to the skin. Sunset found us still some
+twenty miles out of Teheran, and, the horses beginning <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb27" href="#pb27" name="pb27">27</a>]</span>to show
+signs of fatigue, we perforce had to rest them for a while. When we
+were within five miles or so of the city, we found the road all
+flooded, and it was difficult to know where the road ended and the
+ditch began which ran parallel to the road on both sides. It was by
+then pitch dark, so there was nothing to be done but let the horses
+take their own way, hoping their instincts would lead them and us
+safely. All went well till we were within sight of the lights of
+Teheran, when suddenly smash went the carriage, and down fell the
+horses into a deep ditch. One poor horse (our own, which we were taking
+to Teheran to sell) never moved, and we thought he was dead. I jumped
+down from the dogcart and landed in the ditch nearly up to my waist in
+water! The lamps had gone out, and we were in total darkness. We called
+and called for help but no one came, so my husband and I walked on a
+little to see if we could find any one to help, leaving the horses and
+carriage in charge of the driver, who was half beside himself with
+fear.</p>
+<p>Presently we came across a little wayside coffee-house, and found
+some men who were willing to go and help extricate the poor horses from
+their dangerous position, while we walked on to the gate of the city
+and waited in the porter&rsquo;s lodge. After about an hour the
+carriage came along, the horses looking none the worse for their
+escapade. Our kind friends of the American Mission were waiting up, and
+had prepared hot baths and hot drinks for us, knowing that if we did
+arrive that night at all we should be in a terrible plight. Thanks to
+their <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb28" href="#pb28" name=
+"pb28">28</a>]</span>kindness and thoughtfulness, we suffered no harm
+from our damp and adventurous drive.</p>
+<p>The inhabitants of Persia are: Moslems, the Persians of to-day;
+Zoroastrians (Parsees), the Persians of yesterday; Armenians, and Jews.
+Of the two former I will not speak now, as we shall make their
+acquaintance a little later. A few words will suffice for Armenians and
+Jews. The former were brought from Julfa in Armenia many years ago by
+some former Shah on account of their industry and workmanship. He gave
+them a suburb of Isphahan to live in, and very soon a large Armenian
+settlement sprang up. Julfa of Persia is about three miles from
+Isphahan. Here all the Armenians live, and until quite lately the
+Europeans also, as it was not considered safe for them to reside in
+Isphahan. However, of late years this is all changed, most of the
+Europeans now having houses in Isphahan.</p>
+<p>The Armenians are very clever workmen in all crafts and trades. Also
+to their shame be it said that they are the wine and spirit makers for
+the Isphahanis. A true Moslem is not allowed to make or drink wine.
+Thanks to the Armenians, however, the temptation is ever at hand ready
+for him, with plenty of opportunities afforded him of indulging in
+secret.</p>
+<p>The Armenians make very good assistants for hospital work, some of
+them turning out quite good doctors. One young fellow was with my
+husband for two years. After we left he went to India, where he took a
+medical course, and is now a fully qualified doctor practising in
+India. They have plenty of &ldquo;push&rdquo; in them, and once they
+make <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb29" href="#pb29" name=
+"pb29">29</a>]</span>up their minds to get on, no obstacle is too great
+for them to overcome.</p>
+<p>The Jews of Persia are a miserably poor, degraded class of people.
+Their lot is a very hard one; despised and oppressed by the Moslems,
+hated and cursed by all, their life is not enviable. They are to be
+found everywhere, in Isphahan, Yezd, Kerman, and many other cities. My
+heart often ached for these poor, wretched people as they flocked to
+the dispensaries. Fortunately for them, there is a Mission amongst the
+Jews in Persia which helps in no small way to brighten the lives of the
+poor, downtrodden people.</p>
+<p>We have taken a fleeting glance at the Land of the Lion and the Sun;
+we must now try and become more intimately acquainted with some of its
+towns and their inhabitants. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb30" href=
+"#pb30" name="pb30">30</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter II</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Kerman</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Short history of Kerman&mdash;Its overthrow&mdash;City
+of beggars&mdash;Story of the fort&mdash;The jackal&rsquo;s &ldquo;tale
+of woe.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;A little red worm&mdash;the
+gard&rsquo;ner&rsquo;s special dread.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">V. Fane.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The first view we had of Kerman was a very picturesque
+one. We had been travelling for about twenty days, and on Easter Eve
+reached a lovely garden some four or five hours&rsquo; ride from
+Kerman, and here we decided to stay for Easter Day. Early on Monday
+morning we started for the last stage of our journey. Just as the sun
+was rising we came to the top of a hill, and there away in the distance
+lay the city of Kerman, the city towards which our hopes and thoughts
+had been tending for so long, as it was the goal to which we had been
+pressing for the past twelve months, and which we fondly hoped was to
+have been our home for many years; but God ordered otherwise.</p>
+<p>Kerman is a very interesting old city, having passed through many
+vicissitudes and seen many changes during its varied and chequered
+history. It is also a very pretty place, especially as seen from a
+short distance, surrounded on three sides by the eternal mountains,
+with their ever-changing shades and shadows, and forming a magnificent
+background <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb31" href="#pb31" name=
+"pb31">31</a>]</span>to the city nestling at their feet. On the fourth
+side the desert stretches away to Yezd and Isphahan.</p>
+<p>Kerman is said to have derived its name from a Persian word Kerm,
+meaning a worm, and the legend connected with it is as follows. The
+princess who founded the city was one day walking with her followers
+over the site of the future town, and plucked an apple from a tree:
+upon eating it she found to her disgust and annoyance a worm at its
+core. As she threw it away in anger, she declared that the new city
+should be called Kerm-an, a worm. Kerman is certainly a very ancient
+city: the inhabitants claim that it was a large town in the time of
+Solomon. Whether this is so I do not know. The first time it is
+mentioned in history is by Herodotus. Alexander is said to have marched
+his army through Kerman on his way to India, and Cyrus passed that way
+on his return from India. Perhaps few places have suffered more at the
+hands of invaders than Kerman. It has been sacked at least six times,
+and in 1794 the city was almost entirely destroyed by Agha Mohammed
+Khan. The city was bravely defended by the prince-governor, who was one
+of the last of the Zend dynasty; he sustained a long and severe siege,
+till two-thirds of his troops had perished from starvation, and then
+the city was betrayed treacherously into the hands of the enemy and its
+brave defenders obliged to flee, only to meet with a cruel death some
+two years later from the hands of the same oppressor. This incarnation
+of cruelty, Agha Mohammed Khan, gave the city over to the will of his
+soldiers, who resembled their leader in cruelty and barbarity. There
+was no compassion in his heart, and he would <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb32" href="#pb32" name="pb32">32</a>]</span>listen
+to none of the entreaties of the unfortunate inhabitants for mercy, nor
+would he withdraw his troops from the city till he had received a gift
+of twenty thousand pairs of human eyes. When these were brought to him,
+he insisted on counting them over himself to see if the number was
+correct, and is reported to have said to the trembling man who carried
+the baskets piled high with these awful trophies: &ldquo;It is a good
+thing the number is correct; if it had not been, <i>your</i> eyes would
+have gone to make up the exact number.&rdquo; The city never recovered
+from this terrible blow, and to-day Kerman is a byword among Persians
+for its poverty and extraordinary number of beggars. If you were to
+ride through the bazaars you would be struck by the tremendous number
+of beggars, all holding out their hands, beseeching you for the love of
+God to give them a copper.</p>
+<p>There is a quaint saying among the beggars which one hears very
+often; it is as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<div lang="fa-latn" class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Khuda guft, &lsquo;Beddeh,&rsquo;</p>
+<p class="line">Shaitan guft, &lsquo;Neddeh&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first">(God says, &ldquo;Give&rdquo;; Satan says,
+&ldquo;Don&rsquo;t give&rdquo;).</p>
+<p>Just outside Kerman are the remains of two old fortresses, the
+larger of which is called the <i>Galah i Doukhta</i>, or the Fort of
+the Maiden, doubtless on account of the story connected with it.</p>
+<p>These fortresses were built on small hills, and so alike are they in
+formation and colour to the soil that it is difficult to see where the
+castle begins and the hill ends. Between these two old fortresses lie
+the ruins of ancient Kerman. This city was the last <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb33" href="#pb33" name="pb33">33</a>]</span>to fall
+under the Moslem sway in its invasion of Persia, and the legend
+connected with it is interesting.</p>
+<p>The city was surrounded on all hands by the Moslem invaders, and it
+seemed as if the enemy would be obliged to retreat, as its defenders
+had withdrawn themselves into the castles or fortresses already
+mentioned. These had been well provisioned for a long siege in case of
+need, and also were connected with the outer world by means of
+underground passages, known only to those in the castles. All, perhaps,
+might have gone well but for the fact that there lived in the fortress
+a beautiful woman&mdash;alas! as treacherous as beautiful. She was the
+idolised daughter of the king of the castle; nothing was too good for
+this loved and spoilt beauty. Her father showered gifts upon
+her&mdash;gold, jewellery, silks, all were hers; and it is said that
+just before the siege began her father had planned and designed a
+beautiful garden for her, such as never had been seen before.</p>
+<p>Being so loved and such a favourite of all, she was allowed to roam
+at will within the castle walls, and often beguiled the time by
+watching the besiegers who lay far below in the plain. One day her
+attention was attracted by a handsome Arab general, who always seemed
+to be foremost in all that was going on, leading his men into the most
+dangerous and exposed parts. Where the arrows fell fastest and most
+often, there this Arab prince was sure to be seen, always brave and
+courageous. His bravery, added to his good looks, so appealed to this
+spoilt and petted woman that she immediately fell in love <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb34" href="#pb34" name="pb34">34</a>]</span>with
+him. Day by day this love increased, till her whole soul was afire with
+all the abandon of an Eastern love, and she felt that nothing could or
+should keep her from her hero. &ldquo;Love&rdquo; soon found means of
+communicating with the object of its affection, for love is stronger
+than barred or barricaded fortresses. By some means, known only to
+herself and one other, she gave this Arab to understand that if only he
+would promise to marry her, she would deliver the castle into his
+hands.</p>
+<p>The Eastern as well as the Western agree that &ldquo;All is fair in
+love and war,&rdquo; so this general of the East consented to this
+plan, and agreed to accept victory at the hands of treachery.</p>
+<p>Accordingly, all was arranged satisfactorily to both parties, and
+one dark, moonless night the deed was done. The lady of the castle, the
+idolised and beloved of all, became the betrayer of her people. After
+all had retired to rest that night, and the sentinels were lost in the
+dense darkness, she stealthily crept out of the castle, safely passed
+the sleeping men supposed to be on guard, and opened the secret gate to
+her lover and his soldiers&mdash;the enemies of her father and her
+country. A terrible massacre ensued, in which the father was slain,
+fortunately dying without the knowledge of his daughter&rsquo;s base
+action. The prince-general had given strict orders to his men that on
+no account was the girl to be touched during the attack on the castle,
+but that she was to be conducted to a place of safety till all was
+over. At last, in the early hours of the morning, the general had time
+to think of his ward.</p>
+<p>Tired out with his work of bloodshed and <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb35" href="#pb35" name=
+"pb35">35</a>]</span>slaughter, but rejoicing in his unexpected
+victory, he sent for the girl to find out the reason of her willingness
+to thus betray her own people and land into the hands of the enemy.
+When brought into his presence he was amazed at the beauty and
+loveliness of the girl before him, and his heart went out in great love
+and admiration towards her. She, still thinking only of her own wicked
+infatuation, was congratulating herself that <i>now</i> her
+heart&rsquo;s desire was to be granted her, and she would soon become
+the wife of the man so long idealised and idolised. But alas! for her
+fair hopes.</p>
+<p>The general, notwithstanding her beauty, desired to find out what
+her motive was for doing as she had done, and so he plied her with
+questions. &ldquo;Was she very unhappy?&rdquo; &ldquo;Was her father
+very cruel to her?&rdquo; or &ldquo;Had she done this to avenge herself
+for some wrong?&rdquo; To all these she replied in the negative.
+&ldquo;Then, in the name of wonder, <i>what</i> was your reason for
+sacrificing father, home, country and all?&rdquo; cried the general.
+&ldquo;For love of you,&rdquo; answered the now frightened girl, and
+she then told him how kind her father had been to her, how he had done
+all in his power to make her happy, and how nothing was ever denied her
+that he could possibly procure, but assured him that all this was as
+nothing to her compared to the great love which she felt towards him,
+her lover, and ended by beseeching him, now that she had sacrificed all
+for him, not to cast her away.</p>
+<p>At this the general was so disgusted and enraged with her, that he
+determined that she must die, and cast about in his mind for some means
+of death worthy of her selfishness and wickedness, &ldquo;for,&rdquo;
+said <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb36" href="#pb36" name=
+"pb36">36</a>]</span>he, &ldquo;you are not a woman, you are a fiend,
+and therefore must die.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>He therefore ordered his men to bind her with cords, face downwards,
+on to the back of a wild horse, and to turn horse and its rider into
+the desert. This order was carried out amidst heartrending cries and
+entreaties for mercy from the girl, but to all the general paid no
+heed, declaring that she was only suffering a just death for the
+abominable behaviour to her own people. The soldiers followed the horse
+for some distance into the desert to prevent its returning, and thus
+perished the beautiful traitress of Kerman.</p>
+<p>I may say here that this form of death is not unknown even now in
+Persia, and I heard a story of a man who treated his wife in much the
+same way, only the idea was perhaps a little more diabolical. He was
+angry with her for some reason, and desired to rid himself of her, so
+he caught a cow, and kept it shut up without water for some days. Then
+he bound his wife under the body of the animal and sent it off. Of
+course the cow made for the nearest stream, and we can imagine better
+than describe the fate of the poor woman.</p>
+<p>The Kerman of to-day is a large walled-in city of about forty
+thousand souls. This wall is pierced by some dozen gates, some of which
+are in good repair, but others are fast falling into ruin. In fact,
+most of the buildings in Kerman, as well as other parts of Persia, are
+&ldquo;kharab shodeh&rdquo;&mdash;that is, either in ruins, or fast
+falling into that state. The &ldquo;kharab&rdquo; buildings outside the
+town are the abode of jackals, hy&aelig;nas, owls, and other creatures
+of the desert. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb37" href="#pb37" name=
+"pb37">37</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The story of how the jackals came to be inhabiters of the desert is
+told by the Kermanis with great gusto, and they quite sympathise with
+them in their banishment from the civilisation of town life. When in
+Kerman our house was outside the city, so we had the full benefit of
+the cries and wailings of these jackals, and at first it used to make
+me feel quite creepy, but after a time we became more accustomed to the
+weird music of the night, and missed the evening concerts when absent
+from Kerman. Sometimes the jackals would come right up into our garden,
+at other times their howling would come from the desert, like the
+far-away cry of a soul in torment, or the wailing of the banshee; but
+all night and every night the wailing, wailing went on, always crying
+for what they had not and never could have&mdash;never satisfied, and
+always letting people know the fact!</p>
+<p>The story of the dispute between the jackals and the dogs of Kerman
+was told me soon after our arrival there. It is said that, in olden
+days, the jackals were the domesticated pets of the inhabitants of the
+town, and lived quite happily and contentedly in their respective
+homes, always enjoying security and peace within the closed gates,
+while the dogs had to be content to be dwellers of the desert and
+ruins, outside the walls of the city. One day the dogs awoke to the
+fact that the jackals had much the better time of it, and they did not
+see why this unequal state of things should remain. They were tired of
+being always outsiders, always short of food, and exposed to all the
+chances of wind and weather&mdash;so they resolved to make a great
+effort to obtain a position <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb38" href=
+"#pb38" name="pb38">38</a>]</span><i>inside</i> the gates, where there
+was plenty of everything. Being Socialists, they believed in the maxim
+of &ldquo;share and share alike,&rdquo; so they called a committee to
+consider by what means they could oust the jackals from their
+comfortable quarters and <span class="corr" id="xd20e1075" title=
+"Source: instal">install</span> themselves in their places. After due
+thought and much discussion, they determined to send some leading
+representatives to the city to interview the jackals. This they
+accordingly did, telling them that many of the dogs had been ill, and
+the doctor had ordered change of air for three days. Would not the
+noble jackals allow their humble neighbours the dogs to exchange places
+with them just for three days, in order that the invalids might have a
+chance of recovering their strength and health. At the same time they
+enlarged upon the beauties of the desert air, which they said would be
+so good for those who had been cooped up in the stifling city for so
+long. The jackals, after long and careful consideration, agreed to this
+proposition, arranging to leave their comfortable homes for three days
+only, at the expiration of which time all were to return to their
+original places.</p>
+<p>The next night the change was accomplished, and in the morning the
+people were all surprised to see dogs where the night before there had
+been jackals. However, they did not object very much. At the end of the
+three nights, the jackals came to the gates of the city and demanded
+admission, longing to return to their own haunts and homes, having
+found three days in the desert quite enough, there being no comparison
+between the comforts of the town and the dreariness and cold of the
+outside life. The dogs appreciated the change so much that they
+answered, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb39" href="#pb39" name=
+"pb39">39</a>]</span>&ldquo;No, thank you, we prefer to stay where we
+are, and do not wish ever to return to the desert.&rdquo; So the poor
+jackals saw that they had been fooled, and went away sad and sorrowful,
+and every night since then have come howling for admission to the
+gates, and on the dogs answering &ldquo;No,&rdquo; they go away
+wailing. And that is the reason why every night we can hear the howling
+and wailing of these disappointed creatures. And they will probably go
+on howling and wailing till the end of time, for the dogs are never
+likely to wish to return to the desert life.</p>
+<p>Such is the legend of the jackals and the dogs of Kerman.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb40" href="#pb40" name=
+"pb40">40</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch3" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter III</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Persian Industries</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Carpet-making&mdash;How to tell a good
+carpet&mdash;How to make a carpet&mdash;The cry of the
+children&mdash;Shawl
+manufactures&mdash;Calico-printing&mdash;Brass-work&mdash;Agricultural
+industries&mdash;Water disputes&mdash;Kan&acirc;ts&mdash;Poppy
+crops&mdash;Wheat and corn&mdash;Tobacco-growing.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<p class="first">Saying in Persia&mdash;&ldquo;One plum gets colour by
+looking at another.&rdquo;</p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Do ye hear the children weeping, O my
+brothers,</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1099">Ere the sorrow comes with years;</p>
+<p class="line">They are leaning their young heads against their
+mothers,</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1099">And <i>that</i> cannot stop their tears;</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1108">... the child&rsquo;s sob in the silence
+curses deeper</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1099">Than the strong man in his wrath.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">E. B. Browning.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The subject of the industries of Persia is such an
+extensive one that I cannot even attempt to discuss it here at any
+great length. I only wish to describe a few of the manufactures and
+industries which came under our notice while in Persia.</p>
+<p>By far the most interesting of them all, to my mind, are the carpet
+manufactories to be found in many parts. Very few Europeans live for
+any length of time in Persia or other carpet-manufacturing countries
+without being affected by the carpet craze. They may try to fight
+against it, but they are almost sure to succumb, sooner or later!</p>
+<p>When choosing a carpet the first thing to do is to make sure that
+the colours are fast. This is done by moistening a handkerchief or
+small piece of white <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb41" href="#pb41"
+name="pb41">41</a>]</span>cloth and rubbing the carpet. If the
+slightest tinge of colour comes off, the carpet is not a good one. So
+much depends upon the nature and durability of dyes used. In olden
+days, the only dyes used were indigo, madder, and vine leaves. From
+these three ingredients they were able to mix and make most delicate
+and artistic shades, all of which were &ldquo;fast&rdquo; colours. Now,
+however, the aniline dyes are so commonly used that it is difficult to
+find a carpet in which all the colours are permanent. Europeans are
+often deceived when buying carpets, but natives seldom! When the latter
+invests in a carpet he expects it to last the whole of his lifetime,
+and not only of his life, but also of that of his children,
+grandchildren, and great-grandchildren, and perchance be more valuable
+at the end of that period than the day he purchased it. As a rule he
+realises his expectations. When a native buys a new carpet the first
+thing he does with it is to put it down in the bazaars for all the
+traffic to pass over it. The more muddy and filthy the shoes of the
+passers-by, the greater will be the beauty of the carpet afterwards,
+provided the colours are fast. This statement may perhaps refer more
+especially to Syria and Turkish Arabia, but I believe it is also true
+of Persia. I have, myself, often seen carpets laid down in this way in
+the bazaars of Damascus, Beyrout, Baghdad, and Mosul. I could never
+quite make up my mind to allow our carpets to be subjected to this
+treatment, though my husband always assured me it was the only way for
+the carpets to acquire that beautiful silky gloss, so dear to the heart
+of the carpet-lover. As a matter of fact that gloss is <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb42" href="#pb42" name=
+"pb42">42</a>]</span>maintained by the native custom of leaving the
+shoes at the door. The constant walking upon the carpet with bare or
+stockinged feet tends to bring about this desirable finish: whilst, on
+the other hand, our barbarous custom of wearing dirty shoes in a room
+is not so good for the carpet, nor are tables and chairs great
+carpet-improvers. Before the time of exporting carpets from Persia in
+any great number only good carpets were made, but now the demand is so
+great that to keep up the supply a good deal of shoddy work is
+manufactured and sent out of the country.</p>
+<p>To be a good judge of a carpet you need to be quite an expert. Many
+things have to be taken into consideration. First the dyes, as we have
+already seen; then the number of stitches to the inch must be counted,
+and it is said that a good carpet contains about 10,000 stitches to the
+square foot, while some of the better ones have as many as 40,000.
+Another point to notice is to see whether both ends are the same width.
+This is done by doubling the carpet: if the ends do not coincide it is
+not a well-made carpet. Then, again, it should lie perfectly flat on
+the floor, otherwise it will crease in a very short time, and be
+worthless. My husband had a beautiful Kerman carpet given to him once:
+it was valued at &pound;20, and, but for the fact that it does not lie
+flat on the floor, would be worth a good deal more. As it is, we have
+to keep it hanging on the wall, where it cannot get
+&ldquo;rucked&rdquo; or creased.</p>
+<p>Prices vary, of course, according to the size and make of the
+carpets. Very fair ones, the size of an ordinary hearthrug, can be had
+from &pound;2, 10s. to &pound;8 <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb43"
+href="#pb43" name="pb43">43</a>]</span>or &pound;10. Silk ones cost a
+great deal more, but are worth the money. A small silk rug can be
+bought for &pound;50, but they can be obtained any price up to
+&pound;500 or &pound;1000. A mixture of wool and silk is now made to
+suit the European market, but is not so durable as the pure silk ones.
+It is generally acknowledged that the Kurdistan carpets are the best:
+they are the most expensive, being about &pound;3 the square yard. The
+chief attraction of these lies in the fact that they are alike on both
+sides, and are very smooth and fine. Next to these come those made at
+Kerman, the design being quite different to those of Kurdistan. In the
+Kerman carpets it is not at all uncommon to find figures of men and
+animals, sometimes almost life size. Whilst in Kerman we visited one or
+two of the carpet manufactories, and were very much interested in
+watching the process.</p>
+<p>All carpets are, of course, made without machinery of any kind. The
+warp is stretched on a loom, which is merely a frame. The woof consists
+of short threads woven and knotted by hand without the aid of a
+shuttle. When a row is finished it is pressed tightly to the rest of
+the web by means of a comb inserted into the warp. The
+&ldquo;pile&rdquo; is regulated by the amount clipped off. For a velvet
+pile the woof is clipped very close, till a perfectly smooth, even
+surface is obtained. The weaver does not see the pattern as he works,
+as he sits with the reverse side of the web towards him. The looms are
+generally kept in an underground vaulted room, often with water running
+through the centre. At each loom three or four workers sit, according
+to the size of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb44" href="#pb44" name=
+"pb44">44</a>]</span>the carpet. Sometimes the workers consist of one
+man and two children, and occasionally the owner uses boys and girls
+only for the weaving, one man acting as overseer to the children.</p>
+<p>I sat on the high stool by the side of a tiny girl whose fingers
+were working away so fast I could hardly follow her movements. The
+overseer was walking up and down the room, calling out instructions to
+the workers. To me it sounded a horrible, incoherent jumble, but the
+children seemed to understand it perfectly. The overseer held in his
+hand a paper, from which he was apparently reading out instructions.
+Not having a very thorough knowledge of the Persian language, it was
+impossible to follow, but as far as I could make out it was something
+as follows: To No. 1. Three blue threads, one white, two green; No. 2.
+Four yellow, one white; and so on, each child repeating after the
+&ldquo;master&rdquo; the instructions given. As it was all said in a
+high-pitched monotone, the result was confusing and deafening, but
+there the little weavers sit, day in, day out, week after week, in this
+damp, gloomy cellar, kept hard at it by the unrelenting overseer.</p>
+<p>The children are taken on as &ldquo;weavers&rdquo; when very young,
+some even starting when five or six years old. Their hours of work are
+from sunrise to sunset in the summer, and until two or three hours
+after sunset in the winter, and they are paid at the enormous rate of
+about 2d. a day, sometimes starting with even less, whilst learning the
+work.</p>
+<p>The consequence of this abominable sweating system is that to-day
+there are hundreds of little children in Kerman, from eight to nine
+years of age, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb45" href="#pb45" name=
+"pb45">45</a>]</span>confirmed cripples from rheumatism and other
+diseases. From sitting so long in one position, while still of tender
+years, amid such damp surroundings, their little feet and hands become
+knotted and deformed. They can no longer earn their daily bread, so
+perforce must help to swell the great multitude of beggars who throng
+the streets and bazaars of Kerman.</p>
+<p>I once saw a little girl about seven years old sitting by the
+roadside just outside our house. On asking her why she was sitting
+there all alone, her reply was, &ldquo;Mother sent me to my work
+(carpet-weaving), but my feet hurt me so, I can&rsquo;t walk.&rdquo;
+She was waiting there whilst a companion in work and sorrow ran to try
+and find some one who would carry her friend to the workroom.</p>
+<p>When we think of the sufferings of these hundreds of poor innocent
+children, do not our hearts ache with sadness for them? Surely the
+&ldquo;Cry of the Children&rdquo; of Kerman will go up to God, and He
+will have mercy.</p>
+<p>In the meantime, because people want cheap Persian carpets, these
+little martyrs must be willing to sacrifice childhood&rsquo;s happy
+days, health, aye, and often life itself, on the altar of
+cheapness.</p>
+<p>Major (now Colonel) Phillott, then acting British Consul in Kerman,
+was so horrified at what he saw of the state of these little sufferers,
+that he determined to start a loom of his own, employing men only to do
+the weaving. This he accordingly did, finding, of course, that the
+expense was enormous, as men&rsquo;s wages were so much higher than the
+children&rsquo;s, and also that they would not consent to such long
+hours. So long as children are to be had for a mere nominal
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb46" href="#pb46" name=
+"pb46">46</a>]</span>wage, so long will the weavers use them, caring
+nothing for their sorrows, only bent on making money&mdash;the god of
+the Persian.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e1154width" id="p046-1"><img src=
+"images/p046-1.jpg" alt="A Novel Drying-Ground" width="590" height=
+"404">
+<p class="figureHead">A Novel Drying-Ground</p>
+<p class="first">The dry bed of the river at Isphahan is used in
+summer-time as a drying-ground for curtains and printed cloths, which
+are manufactured in the city.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e1160width" id="p046-2"><img src=
+"images/p046-2.jpg" alt="Persian Mode of Irrigation" width="586"
+height="406">
+<p class="figureHead">Persian Mode of Irrigation</p>
+<p class="first">The ox, who patiently walks up and down the inclined
+passage, draws up from the well a large skin of water, or sometimes an
+iron bucket, which empties itself into trenches prepared
+beforehand.</p>
+</div>
+<p>A soft kind of felt carpet is also made in Persia, specially in
+Isphahan and Yezd. These are called Namads. The materials used are
+wools of all kinds, chiefly camel&rsquo;s hair. The colour is a light
+ochre shade of brown, and there is generally a pattern woven in the
+centre of different colours, red predominating. Some of these Namads
+are an inch or more in thickness, and are delightfully soft for walking
+on. They make a splendid foundation in a room for laying carpets on.
+There is yet another kind of rug much used, called the Galeem. These
+are much cheaper than carpets, and are suitable for rough use, such as
+travelling. They wash well, but do not improve with use as carpets do,
+having no pile.</p>
+<p>There are still shawl-manufactories to be seen in Kerman, though
+they are rapidly on the decrease. The best kind of shawl sells for
+fifty tumans (about &pound;10) each, but there are others less
+expensive, which resemble the famous Cashmere shawls of India. These
+&ldquo;shawls&rdquo; are given as coats of honour by the governor or
+other high official, and are sought after and valued by all. They are
+woven in much the same manner as the carpets, and are made from the
+under hair of a special kind of white goat called &ldquo;koork,&rdquo;
+which is only found in the neighbourhood of Kerman.</p>
+<p>The silks of Persia are very pretty and durable. They are woven
+principally at Yezd, Kashan, and Resht. The latter place is noted, too,
+for its patchwork <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb47" href="#pb47"
+name="pb47">47</a>]</span>and embroidery. This work consists of tiny
+pieces of cloth pieced together into some floral or other design. I had
+two or three pieces of this work given me by a Persian gentleman of
+high rank. One is a study in red, and the other consists chiefly of
+black and green, enlivened here and there by bright patches of other
+colours.</p>
+<p>Another rather interesting industry to be seen in Isphahan is the
+calico-printing; this is done by means of blocks, and, as a rule, one
+design covers the whole piece. These prints are used very much as
+curtains, table-cloths, &amp;c., and have the advantage of being
+inexpensive. The natives often use them as shrouds for the dead, for
+which purpose special ones are manufactured, bearing suitable
+quotations from the Koran.</p>
+<p>During the summer in Isphahan the bed of the river may be seen
+covered with these prints, laid out to dry in the sun after having gone
+through the process of dyeing and &ldquo;blocking.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Space forbids my mentioning all the many other articles manufactured
+in Persia&mdash;the brass-work of Isphahan, copper-work of Kashan,
+silver of both Isphahan and Shiraz, mosaic also from Shiraz. But enough
+has been said to show that the Persians are a very clever and artistic
+race of people, and considering the primitiveness of their methods and
+implements, the results are astonishingly beautiful and charming. The
+agricultural industries of Persia, too, are considerable&mdash;the
+water supply necessary for these being a fruitful source of quarrelling
+and fighting, which sometimes leads even to murder. The labourers whose
+duty it is to look after the watering of the <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb48" href="#pb48" name="pb48">48</a>]</span>crops
+are armed with long spades, for the purpose of digging trenches and
+clearing a way for the water, &amp;c. In a dispute these spades become
+very formidable weapons, and many a broken head have they caused.</p>
+<p>Often when riding in the desert we have met a company of these men
+returning from their labours, each carrying his murderous-looking
+implement on his shoulder, and in the gloaming they resembled an army
+of soldiers marching. The water supply is very often conducted into a
+town or village from the mountains by means of kan&acirc;ts, or long
+underground passages. Pits are dug at a distance of about 25 feet
+apart, each one being connected with the other by a subterranean
+passage, and so on till the place is reached where the water is needed.
+Sometimes these tunnels extend for many miles, and as the mouth of each
+pit is surrounded by mounds of earth thrown up, it gives the appearance
+of a succession of huge mole-hills running across the country. Great
+loss of life is associated with the sinking of these shafts from the
+constant falling in of the sides; on this account very high wages are
+given to compensate for probable loss of life.</p>
+<p>One of the principal crops around Isphahan is that of the poppy. It
+is a beautiful sight to see field after field of these lovely white
+flowers, stretching away for miles, maybe. How sad to think that such
+beauty should lead to misery, wretchedness, and degradation! When the
+poppy is ripe, the &ldquo;head&rdquo; is scratched at sunset with a
+kind of comb in three places; from these gashes the opium oozes out. It
+is then collected in the morning before sunrise, dried, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb49" href="#pb49" name="pb49">49</a>]</span>and
+rolled into cakes ready either for use in the country or for export. It
+is calculated that about 8000 cases of opium, each case containing some
+200 cakes, are exported from Persia every year.</p>
+<p>Although the growth of opium enriches those directly concerned, yet
+it tends to impoverish the country; for the ground which before was
+cultivated with wheat and corn is now required for the poppy, thus
+making grain much dearer.</p>
+<p>There is also a large quantity of tobacco grown in Persia, which is
+used for the &ldquo;kalian&rdquo; (or water-pipe) and cigarette
+smoking. The best kind is grown in the neighbourhood of Shiraz.</p>
+<p>Wheat and barley are largely grown, and are always reaped with the
+sickle. The land is very fertile, and with very little trouble a good
+crop is obtained, provided the water supply is good.</p>
+<p>It has been said of Persia that &ldquo;it is only necessary to
+tickle the land and it will laugh into blossom.&rdquo; <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb50" href="#pb50" name="pb50">50</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch4" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter IV</h2>
+<h2 class="main">The Climate of Persia</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Resht, Teheran, Isphahan&mdash;Dryness of
+atmosphere&mdash;Cellars&mdash;Roof life&mdash;Children attacked by
+jackals&mdash;Chequered history of work in Kerman.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;The climate&rsquo;s delicate, the air most
+sweet.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">When speaking of the climate of Persia, Cyrus is
+supposed to have said, &ldquo;People perish with cold at one point,
+while they are suffocated with heat at another,&rdquo; and this may be
+applied equally well to the climate of Persia to-day, for every town
+has a different climate according to its height above sea-level. When
+we land on Persian soil from the Caspian we find ourselves some feet
+below sea-level, consequently the climate is very damp, and vegetation
+is profuse. The rainfall in Resht is so great that the wells are often
+overflowing, rain falling during quite two-thirds of the year. Always
+having thought of Persia as a very dry, parched land, our surprise was
+very great on reaching Resht, the port on the Caspian, to see such
+lovely forests of trees, and flowers in abundance, both wild and
+cultivated. Primroses, anemones, periwinkles, cyclamen, and many other
+kinds of flowers, all were in bloom as we drove through Resht on our
+way to Isphahan. The ferns, too, were splendid, maiden-hair and
+ox-tongue being especially beautiful. With all these <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb51" href="#pb51" name="pb51">51</a>]</span>homelike
+flowers and ferns around us, we could hardly realise that we were not
+driving through some dear Devonshire lane in Old England. But as we
+mounted, higher and ever higher over the Elburz Mountains, we soon lost
+this English type of scenery. The climate became dry and warm, till by
+the time we reached Teheran we were thankful indeed for the shelter of
+the comfortable quarters of our American friends, who extended to us
+the most hospitable kindness during our stay in that city. The climate
+of Teheran is very good; its winters are pleasantly cold, and the
+summer heat is not so overpoweringly great as in other places. Then,
+too, there are lovely summer gardens near at hand, whither the
+residents can retire during the warm months of the year. And for those
+who love the mountain heights there is the beautiful and picturesque
+Mount Demavend, rising some 19,400 feet above sea-level. This mountain
+adds greatly to the beauty of Teheran, both as regards its scenery and
+climate. It stands as a sentinel guarding the valley in which Teheran
+lies, and has an ever-changing beauty of its own, with its eternal
+snows catching and reflecting all the radiant hues of the rising and
+setting sun. It also forms a most valuable health resort and summer
+retreat for all the heat-wearied ones of the neighbourhood. This is the
+highest mountain in Persia, but there are many others from 10,000 to
+13,000 feet high, so, if necessary, a cool climate is to be found at
+all times of the year. Once over the Elburz, the whole of Persia is a
+high plateau land, till we descend once more to the shores of the
+Persian Gulf. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb52" href="#pb52" name=
+"pb52">52</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Isphahan has a very pleasant climate; the winters are cold and
+bright, and it is possible to enjoy sitting out in the sunshine most of
+the winter months. The mornings and evenings are cold, but the days are
+delightful during the sunshine. The atmosphere here, as elsewhere in
+Persia, is very dry, and one&rsquo;s skin gets very cracked and
+&ldquo;chapped,&rdquo; not from the cold, but from the dryness of the
+air. This is the cause, too, of much &ldquo;nerve&rdquo; trouble
+amongst the Europeans, especially, perhaps, with the ladies. In the
+winter the natives warm themselves and their rooms by means of a
+&ldquo;korsi&rdquo; (literally, a chair). This &ldquo;korsi&rdquo; is a
+contrivance for giving warmth at a minimum cost. A hole is dug in the
+floor of the room in which the whole family live. Into this hole is put
+a clay or iron firepan full of lighted charcoal: above this, the
+&ldquo;korsi,&rdquo; a wooden frame varying in size according to the
+number of the family, is placed, and over all is spread a large
+&ldquo;lahaf&rdquo; or padded quilt. All round the &ldquo;korsi&rdquo;
+are placed soft mattresses and cushions, and here the family pass the
+time eating, sleeping, talking; the &ldquo;korsi&rdquo; acting as a
+dining-table and the &ldquo;lahaf&rdquo; as a covering by day and
+night. This arrangement is very unhealthy, but the natives love it, and
+the more friends and relations they can gather round the
+&ldquo;korsi&rdquo; the happier they are.</p>
+<p>The summers at Isphahan are rather warm, but there are many places
+near by, which are cool, pleasant, and within easy distance for those
+whose business keeps them in the vicinity of the town during the hot
+season.</p>
+<p>There is always plenty of ice to be had during <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb53" href="#pb53" name="pb53">53</a>]</span>the
+summer here&mdash;perhaps not always of the cleanest, but still good
+enough for the purpose of cooling fruits and drinks. The native method
+of making ice is rather clever. A &ldquo;yakh khaneh&rdquo; or
+ice-house is generally situated outside the town or near some running
+water: a trench is dug some two or three feet deep, and a wall from
+twenty to forty feet is built facing north and south, thus shielding
+the trench from all rays of the sun. As soon as frost sets in, an inch
+or two of water is let into the trench: this freezes during the night,
+and the next day more water is diverted into the hole, on top of the
+ice. This is repeated several days in succession, till about a foot or
+more of ice is formed. This is then broken up and stored in deep
+caverns or wells for use during the summer. The process is continued as
+long as the frost lasts, and thus there is generally enough to keep the
+town supplied with ice during the great heat. Well-to-do Persians have
+their own &ldquo;yakh khanehs,&rdquo; and others use them for a means
+of livelihood. If the supply runs short before the hot season is over,
+frozen snow is brought from the mountains; but this is very expensive,
+as it has to be brought such a long distance.</p>
+<p>Yezd has a much warmer &ldquo;hot season&rdquo; than Isphahan, and
+the heat is much more trying and of longer duration. The houses are
+essentially summer houses. The winters being shorter and much less
+severe, little attention is paid to the comforts necessary for cold
+weather, but everything is considered which will add to the coolness
+and airiness of the houses.</p>
+<p>As a traveller approaches Yezd he cannot fail to <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb54" href="#pb54" name="pb54">54</a>]</span>be
+struck by the number of tall &ldquo;chimneys&rdquo; rising from the
+city, and he almost fancies he is approaching some large manufacturing
+town, and speculates perhaps as to the nature of the manufactures
+possible in such a sandy city of the desert. But as he draws nearer he
+sees there is no smoke rising from these &ldquo;chimneys,&rdquo; and so
+concludes that, after all, they are not for manufacturing purposes.
+What, then, is the purpose of all those tall, square, chimney-like
+buildings, appearing from the roofs of nearly all the dwelling-places
+of Yezd? They are air shafts, built with the hope of bringing a little
+cool air into the houses during the hot season, when the atmosphere
+below is so stifling that it seems impossible to breathe. These
+structures are called &ldquo;<span lang="fa-latn">b&acirc;d
+geers</span>,&rdquo; or &ldquo;wind-catchers.&rdquo; There was a very
+large one connected with the house in which we lived in Yezd, and even
+on the hottest days, some air was always to be felt coming from the
+&ldquo;<span lang="fa-latn">b&acirc;d geer</span>.&rdquo; It was so
+arranged in our house that after the air had been caught and brought
+down by means of the chimney, it passed over a &ldquo;hoze&rdquo; (tank
+of water), and in this way was cooled before circulating through the
+house. Another aid to bearing the heat in Yezd is the custom of
+spending the middle part of the day underground in cellars.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e1238width" id="p054-1"><img src=
+"images/p054-1.jpg" alt="A Chimney of Yezd" width="430" height="443">
+<p class="figureHead">A Chimney of Yezd</p>
+<p class="first">These tall chimney-like buildings are air-shafts,
+constructed with the hope of bringing any cool air which may be
+circulating above the houses into the rooms below. The above is a photo
+of the house in which we lived in Yezd.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e1244width" id="p054-2"><img src=
+"images/p054-2.jpg" alt="A Korsi or Heating Contrivance" width="582"
+height="418">
+<p class="figureHead">A Korsi or Heating Contrivance</p>
+<p class="first">In a hole made in the floor a pan of lighted charcoal
+is placed. This is covered by the Korsi, a wooden frame varying in size
+according to the family; and over this again is spread the lahaf or
+padded quilt. This arrangement serves as a table, and is an effectual
+but unhealthy heating device.</p>
+</div>
+<p>Some of these cellars are quite palatial, the walls and floors being
+made from the famous Yezd marble, which closely resembles alabaster.
+One such I remember very well: it was a room about 40 feet by 30 feet,
+very lofty, and lit from the top by windows on a level with the ground
+above. In the centre of this room was a &ldquo;hoze&rdquo; (water
+tank), of which the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb55" href="#pb55"
+name="pb55">55</a>]</span>Persians are so fond, and rising from the
+water was a fountain capable of playing to the height of 30 feet; a
+large bowl turned upside down had been fixed on the ceiling to catch
+the spray and prevent it from becoming damp. Here the inmates of the
+house took their mid-day siesta, and very charmingly cool it was
+compared to the upstairs world. Some cellars are not at all healthy,
+and, if slept in during the day, the sleepers are very liable to
+contract malaria or some other fever. When dry and well ventilated no
+harm seems to come from this custom of retiring underground during the
+great heat of the day, and certainly a good cellar is a great boon to a
+European, and a great blessing when the thermometer registers 110 in
+the shade upstairs, while in the cellar it rarely goes above 86 or 90
+degrees.</p>
+<p>Scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas, and suchlike creatures have a
+good time in Yezd. The climate agrees with them, and they thrive and
+enjoy life to an alarming extent. One day my husband killed three
+scorpions within the hour, two of which were the poisonous black kind.
+Tarantulas abounded inside the house and out. They always seemed to
+make a point of running across my path during prayer times; to say the
+least it is very disconcerting to see one of these creatures glide
+softly past you with the evident intention of seeking shelter under
+your skirt! Our cat always used to make a dart directly he saw any of
+these tarantulas, just to draw our attention to them, but he would
+never kill one.</p>
+<p>From life in the cellar we pass to life on the roof. This was often
+the most enjoyable part of the day. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb56"
+href="#pb56" name="pb56">56</a>]</span>It is lovely, when the heat of
+the day is over, to lie and watch the stars, knowing that the same
+stars were watching over our loved ones in the Homeland.</p>
+<p>Sleeping on the roof had its disadvantages as well as its
+attractions and advantages. One great disadvantage is the fact that the
+sun wakes you up so early; another, the talking and singing which goes
+on all round you from the adjoining roofs, often make it difficult to
+sleep. In addition there is this very serious drawback, that often the
+jackals visit the roofs of the houses at night, seeking for something
+wherewith to appease their hunger, and if they cannot find anything
+else to satisfy them will attack sleeping children. On several
+occasions poor little mites have been brought to the hospital terribly
+mutilated and torn by the jackals, some just slightly bitten on the
+face, others so mauled and eaten as to be quite unrecognisable. One
+especially sad case I remember; the poor mother was wild with grief,
+for her child, a baby of only a few weeks old, had been almost eaten up
+by these abominable creatures.</p>
+<p>Life on the roof begins soon after sunset. It is very interesting to
+watch, from a height, roof-life springing into existence. First one and
+then another will bring out the family bedding, spread it on the floor
+of the roof or on low wooden benches, and then sit and chat till
+dinner-time. Very often the evening meal is eaten on the roof, and
+shortly after the family retires to rest. A Moslem takes great pains to
+have his roof well shielded from the gaze of onlookers, and if he is at
+all suspicious that he is overlooked he will immediately raise his
+wall. This being the case, the roofs in a Moslem quarter are generally
+very much <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb57" href="#pb57" name=
+"pb57">57</a>]</span>shut in by high walls, which keep out the air and
+make the nights much less bearable.</p>
+<p>The climate of Kerman is almost perfect for those who can stand it.
+Situated about 6500 feet above the sea, surrounded on all sides by
+mountains and deserts, the result is a delightful bracing air and
+invigorating climate. In Kerman there is no need of resting in cellars
+by day or sleeping on roofs by night. Indeed the climate would be hard
+to beat anywhere. The winters are charming, bright and cold, with
+snow-covered mountains always in view. For a month or two in the summer
+it becomes fairly hot, when flies and mosquitoes nearly drive one wild,
+but it is generally possible to get away for a little time, and during
+the remainder of the year the climate is all that could be desired. And
+yet it seems strange that in spite of all this Europeans have found it
+difficult to live there.</p>
+<p>Our mission in its infancy had a very chequered career, owing to the
+breaking down in health of its missionaries. The first to open the work
+there was a Mr. Carless, a clergyman of the Church of England. He went
+there a young man in the vigour of youth, and at the end of three
+years, having gained the love and admiration of Moslem and Parsee
+alike, he was laid in a solitary grave away in the desert, in a valley
+surrounded by hills. After a short time his work was taken up by a Mr.
+and Mrs. Blackett, but the latter was able to remain only a few short
+months, at the end of which time she returned to England, broken down
+and shattered in health. Then my husband was appointed to open Medical
+Mission work there. Unfortunately, before the year was out,
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb58" href="#pb58" name=
+"pb58">58</a>]</span>we too had to leave, this time on account of my
+health. During our stay there an English engineer came to seek for
+artesian wells. After two or three months he contracted fever and died
+at our house, and he too is resting in that quiet spot amongst the
+mountains by the side of Mr. Carless. On our leaving, another doctor
+was appointed to take my husband&rsquo;s post, but his stay in Kerman
+was not even as long as ours had been. And so it seemed as if the work
+there could not be carried on, but fortunately this chapter of
+accidents has now come to an end, for our missionaries have been living
+and working there for some three or four years. All agree, too, in
+saying that the climate is a very healthy one, provided the people
+living there have sound hearts! <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb59"
+href="#pb59" name="pb59">59</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch5" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter V</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Holidays in Persia</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">How to ensure a prosperous
+journey&mdash;Natanz&mdash;Astonishment of natives at sight of
+hairpins&mdash;Pulivagoon&mdash;Mahoon&mdash;Aliab&acirc;d&mdash;Prince
+under canvas&mdash;Visit from a Persian princess&mdash;A Persian
+deer-hunt.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;If all the year were playing holidays,</p>
+<p class="line">To sport would be as tedious as to work.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">In a climate such as has been described in the
+foregoing chapter, it is necessary for the sake of health to get away
+during a part of the hot season. Fortunately there are suitable places
+near at hand to each of the large cities, so it is no very difficult
+matter to get away for a few weeks. The difficulties lie rather in
+reaching these places, and in transporting all one&rsquo;s
+belongings&mdash;at least all those that are absolutely
+necessary&mdash;to the place chosen.</p>
+<p>After having decided upon the desirability of having a holiday, the
+next thing is to fix a day of departure. This sounds easy to say. Yes,
+it is quite a simple matter for you to say, &ldquo;We will start on
+such and such a day,&rdquo; but you are perhaps reckoning without
+considering your muleteer. On the morning appointed you rise early, see
+that everything is in readiness, and then sit down to wait for the
+baggage animals to arrive. Time goes on, the sun begins to get hot, and
+no sign of the muleteer or mules, so by-and-by you send your servant to
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb60" href="#pb60" name=
+"pb60">60</a>]</span>investigate matters, and he brings back with him
+the muleteer, who smiles sweetly and says, &ldquo;Ensha&rsquo;allah
+farda (to-morrow, God willing) we will start on our journey.&rdquo; His
+mules have gone to a village, and will be back &ldquo;ensha&rsquo;allah
+farda.&rdquo; We can console ourselves that very likely the same thing
+will occur again on the next day. It is always &ldquo;farda&rdquo; with
+these people, so we must try to possess our souls in patience, and hope
+for the best. Persians are never in a hurry, and cannot understand why
+it should make any difference whether we start &ldquo;to-day&rdquo; or
+&ldquo;to-morrow.&rdquo; Oh, those endless &ldquo;fardas&rdquo;! how
+tired we got of them before we had been very long in the land. But it
+is good to learn patience, and the sooner you have mastered this lesson
+well, the happier will you be living in the East.</p>
+<p>Preparing for a holiday in Persia is rather a different matter to
+starting off at home for the seaside or elsewhere. Everything has to be
+taken&mdash;pots and pans, tables, chairs, beds and bedding&mdash;in
+fact, everything that is necessary for four or five weeks&rsquo; stay
+in a house where nothing is provided but the bare walls. It is
+wonderful what a number of things are necessary even for a short stay,
+in the so-called simple life.</p>
+<p>The natives are very superstitious about many things when starting
+on a journey. For instance, it is very unlucky, in their eyes, to
+proceed if any of the party happens to sneeze on the point of starting.
+They would much rather postpone the start for a more propitious
+occasion, than disregard this bad omen. I heard of one man who insisted
+on continuing his journey in spite of the warning given in <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb61" href="#pb61" name="pb61">61</a>]</span>the form
+of a sneeze, and the consequence was he fell off his mule and broke his
+leg! The natives also are careful to have a good supply of copper coins
+ready when starting on a journey, to give to the beggars. Whenever we
+left home our servants always distributed freely to the poor who were
+living around, to ensure a blessing on our journey, but they never
+forgot to put the amount down in the daily account!</p>
+<p>While in Persia we had some very enjoyable holidays, but as I could
+not endure the altitude we were never able to go to the mountains,
+which of course make the ideal summer resorts. However, we managed to
+find some very pretty and fairly cool places in the plains or on
+slightly elevated ground. Our first holiday in Persia was spent in a
+very pretty little village called Natanz. I had been taken ill on our
+way to Isphahan, and the lady doctor who came out to meet us suggested
+our going for a week or so to this little village before entering
+Isphahan. Spring was already well advanced, and it is difficult to
+recruit in the hot season.</p>
+<p>Natanz is a picturesque little village, slightly off the general
+route, so that the natives had not then become very much used to
+Feringhis staying with them, and our coming caused no little
+excitement. We arrived there about twelve o&rsquo;clock one night, and
+were conducted to our room by an admiring throng, and this throng
+continued to &ldquo;admire&rdquo; for the whole time we were there. The
+windows of our room were composed of lattice work only, so all
+interested could always have a good view of our movements. On waking in
+the morning there were our faithful followers to be seen with their
+faces flattened against <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb62" href=
+"#pb62" name="pb62">62</a>]</span>the trellis work, waiting for us to
+wake, and see what we were going to do next! At times this interest
+shown on the part of the inhabitants was a trifle embarrassing, but as
+often as they were driven away by our servant just as often did they
+return again whenever his back was turned. For the first day or two I
+did not leave the room, but when I felt stronger I used to sit in a
+chair outside the window reading or writing. The moment my husband left
+me the women all swarmed round like bees, full of curious questions.
+Unfortunately at that time I was not able to talk to them, not knowing
+the language, but I could make out what they were saying to a great
+extent from their gestures. My fountain pen was a cause of great
+amusement and astonishment, as were also my hairpins. The delight of
+some of the women on being presented with a hairpin was very funny.
+They seemed to think I stuck them into my head, as into a pincushion.
+At first the women were rather shy, as they could not be quite sure
+whether I was a man or a woman, but one of them came and peeped under
+my hat and seeing I had long hair concluded I was a woman. My husband
+received a visit from the governor of the village, who was very
+delighted to see an English hakeem. We were quite sorry when our little
+holiday in Natanz was over, but being anxious to push on to Isphahan,
+did not care to prolong our stay longer than was necessary.</p>
+<p>Our next holiday was in the summer of the same year 1900. This time
+we went only a few hours&rsquo; drive out of Isphahan to a place called
+Pulivagoon. It was a very pretty little village, and a nice house,
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb63" href="#pb63" name=
+"pb63">63</a>]</span>belonging to the Zil es Sultan, had been lent to
+us for a month. The house was built practically on the river, as our
+windows hung right over the water, and the sound of its rushing torrent
+reminded us of the lapping of the waves on the seashore in dear Old
+England. There were some lovely woods near by, to which we often used
+to take our tea, and pass the time pleasantly paddling, bathing, and
+fishing in the river. The following year we were at Kerman, and went
+for our holidays to a lovely garden about nine hours&rsquo; ride from
+the city. Mahoon lies very high; it must be at least 6700 feet above
+sea-level. The climate is beautiful, but the altitude proved too high
+for me to enjoy it much. We had a very tiring ride from Kerman;
+starting one day soon after noon we rode for three or four hours, then
+had a refreshing cup of tea under the shadow of a large spreading tree.
+But we could not afford to linger, for we still had a good half of our
+journey before us, so once more we mounted our respective steeds,
+hoping to reach our destination about nine o&rsquo;clock, but alas for
+our hopes! Nine o&rsquo;clock came and went, and still we seemed no
+nearer; ten o&rsquo;clock, and still no sign of our village. It was now
+pitch dark, and we were all very tired and hungry, and I was so dead
+beat that I could hardly sit upright on my animal. My husband rode
+close by my side, to be in readiness in case I should fall off in my
+sleep. To the oft-repeated question, &ldquo;How much farther?&rdquo;
+the answer always came, &ldquo;Ensha&rsquo;allah&mdash;only
+half-an-hour.&rdquo; Oh, those half-hours, how wearisome they became! I
+did so wish that they would say two hours or three hours for a change,
+for the everlasting half-hour was <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb64"
+href="#pb64" name="pb64">64</a>]</span>so tantalising. Our servants
+told me afterwards that they said this to keep up my spirits, as they
+thought, if they told the truth about the distance, &ldquo;the
+Khanum&rsquo;s heart would melt within her.&rdquo; At last, just after
+midnight, we heard a very energetic coo-ing ahead of us, and knew that
+at last we were within sound of rest and food. It was so dark that we
+could not find the path leading to the garden, and our animals went
+floundering about over great boulders of stones or stumbling into
+ditches, and of course all in the wrong direction, till some one met us
+and conducted our tired party into the house. Here we found that our
+baggage animals, with Bagi and the other servants, had not yet turned
+up, though they had started an hour or two before us. They did not
+arrive till morning, so there was nothing for it but to lie down on
+bare boards and go to sleep supperless. The only drinking vessel to be
+found was a saucepan, from which we had a most refreshing drink of
+water and retired to our luxurious couch, sleeping as well and as
+soundly as if we were lying on beds of softest down. We were awakened
+about eight o&rsquo;clock next morning by the sound of bells, and knew
+that our belated caravan had come in. While they were settling disputes
+and unpacking we strolled off into the garden to dip our faces into the
+cool water that was flowing through the grounds. It was, or rather had
+been, a magnificent garden, but, like everything else in Persia, was
+even then fast falling into decay. There was water in abundance,
+flowing on both sides, and fountains playing on the top terrace and
+also at the foot of the garden. The whole garden was built in a series
+of terraces, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb65" href="#pb65" name=
+"pb65">65</a>]</span>steps led from one level to the next. The houses
+and gardens had been built by H.H. Farman Farma, at one time governor
+of Kerman, and must have cost a great deal of money.</p>
+<p>We took up our quarters in the house at the top of the garden, and
+after a few days our consul came out from Kerman and occupied the lower
+one. We spent a very enjoyable month here, riding, shooting, bathing,
+&amp;c. My husband opened a dispensary for the villagers, to which he
+went two mornings each week, and the people appreciated this very much,
+as I do not think they had ever had an English doctor amongst them
+before. We much enjoyed the use of the Persian &ldquo;hammam&rdquo;
+(bath) while there. It comprised a series of rooms built a little way
+off from the house; each room was built of marble and blue tiles. The
+first or outer room was simply for resting in, having a fountain in the
+centre; passing through this, you entered a large vaulted room, which
+was used for a dressing-room and &ldquo;cooling-down&rdquo; place; from
+this you passed to the actual hammam, which was a large tank of water
+about 15 feet by 10 feet, and from 1 to 6 feet deep, shelving gradually
+in depth from the edge. This had not been used for some years
+apparently, but my husband had it cleaned out and filled with fresh
+water, and we were very thankful for it during the hot weather. At
+first we tried taking our afternoon siesta in the outer or
+resting-room, but found it too feverish; however, we were able to sit
+in it during the early part of the day, and generally had our Persian
+lesson there, as it was easier to work in the cool. We always made our
+holidays a time for language study, as my <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb66" href="#pb66" name="pb66">66</a>]</span>husband rarely could find
+time for it while at work in the city, and we both longed to be able to
+speak Persian properly. I must say the natives were always wonderfully
+good and patient over our mistakes, and never laughed, however terrible
+and feeble our attempts at conversation might be. Unfortunately, just
+as we were beginning to feel our way in Persian a little, we had to
+start learning a new language, so to a great extent we have forgotten
+our Persian.</p>
+<p>Our last holiday in Persia was spent in Aliab&acirc;d, a dear little
+village about ten hours&rsquo; drive from Yezd. H.R.H. the Jalal el
+Dowleh (nephew of the late Shah) kindly lent us a house there, and as
+it was rather a small one, he erected a large tent in the garden for
+us, which did duty as dining and sitting-room combined. The Jalal also
+kindly lent us one of his carriages to drive from Yezd to
+Aliab&acirc;d. The first part of the way the road was very good. We
+left Yezd just before sunset, reaching our half-way place shortly
+before midnight. Here we had to rest the horses till morning, so we
+spent the night in a garden by permission of the owner. Spreading a rug
+on the ground, and using two of the carriage cushions as pillows, we
+spent a very comfortable night, and awoke in the early morning fresh
+and ready for the second part of our journey. We were off before
+sunrise, as we wished to reach our destination before the great heat of
+the day began. I shall never forget that drive. For the greater part of
+the way there was not even a semblance of a road, and the whole path
+was strewn with huge stones and boulders; it was a marvel to me how the
+carriage ever got safely over them. But oh, the jolting and
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb67" href="#pb67" name=
+"pb67">67</a>]</span>the shaking! Driving up the Pyramids would be
+smooth and easy compared to the horrors of that road! We repented often
+of having accepted the kind offer of the carriage, as the saddle is
+much more preferable on such roads. However, all things come to an end
+to those who have patience; so at last this memorable drive ended, and
+we were very thankful, about ten o&rsquo;clock, to see the trees of our
+village rising on the horizon. We found the little house very
+comfortably arranged and breakfast waiting for us in the tent, as our
+servants had pushed on instead of resting during the night.</p>
+<p>Aliab&acirc;d contained, I suppose, some fifty houses, all of which
+were occupied by Moslems of rather a fanatical type. It was surrounded
+on all sides by mountains and hills, and this gave it a rather shut-in
+feeling at times. After sunset, too, it was very chilly and damp, as
+there were so many gardens lying under water at that time, this being
+the usual method of irrigation. I wanted to make the acquaintance of
+the village women, so I let it be known that I should generally be in
+the garden during the morning, and should welcome all who came to see
+me. In this way I saw most of the women, but they were not very
+responsive on the whole. It was here, sitting in the garden one
+morning, that I tried to learn from them how to &ldquo;tell the
+beads&rdquo; according to the Moslem method, but I found it too
+intricate and difficult. I managed, however, to master one very simple
+method of trying the beads for good or ill fortune. This was as
+follows: holding the rosary before you in both hands, you separate a
+certain number of the beads; then, closing your eyes, you <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb68" href="#pb68" name=
+"pb68">68</a>]</span>&ldquo;tell&rdquo; them, repeating the mystic
+words &ldquo;Adam, Eve, Satan,&rdquo; until the last bead is reached.
+If this happens to be &ldquo;Adam,&rdquo; the luck is sure to be of the
+best; if &ldquo;Eve,&rdquo; the result is neutral, and the beads must
+be counted again; while &ldquo;Satan&rdquo; indicates the worst of
+fortune, and would absolutely prevent any one from undertaking any
+contemplated action.</p>
+<p>It was no uncommon sight to see the women counting their beads and
+mumbling to themselves, &ldquo;Adam, Hava, Shaitan (Adam, Eve, Satan),
+Adam, Hava, Shaitan,&rdquo; before making up their minds as to whether
+they should drink their medicine or not. Or perhaps some patient has
+been advised an operation, and he is trying his beads to see whether
+the doctor&rsquo;s advice is to be taken or not. It is a strange thing
+that, when they <i>very</i> badly want to do a thing, they can
+generally make it come to &ldquo;Adam,&rdquo; or else they keep on
+repeating the words till it does come to the lucky name, and then they
+are happy.</p>
+<p>When we had been in Aliab&acirc;d some days the prince-governor of
+Yezd brought his &ldquo;anderoon&rdquo; to the same village. Of course
+there was no accommodation for them in the village, so they erected a
+town for themselves. It sprang up in one night, and looked in the
+morning as if a large company of soldiers had suddenly come along and
+fixed their camp. The ladies&rsquo; quarters consisted of about twenty
+large tents, and were enclosed by a huge canvas wall, quite shutting
+them off from the outside world. The prince had his reception tents and
+others outside the wall, but quite near to it. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb69" href="#pb69" name="pb69">69</a>]</span></p>
+<p>A day or two after their arrival the princess sent down her carriage
+for me, with a request that I would go and see her, which I gladly did,
+and found her surrounded by all her home comforts, and dressed, as
+usual, in some lovely silk costume. After this she always sent for me
+about three times a week, and we had walks and talks together. Whenever
+we came to a garden, she and her ladies always gathered the cucumbers
+and onions and ate them, thoroughly enjoying the impromptu picnic, and
+never giving a thought to the poor unfortunate owner, who dared not
+voice a remonstrance, however much his garden was stripped of its
+produce.</p>
+<p>A eunuch or two always went before when the princess walked out, to
+warn off any of the dreaded menkind who happened to be about. One day
+the prince gave permission for his wife to come and call upon me. This
+was the first time she had ever been allowed to pay a visit. I was
+sorry we were not in our own house, as I should have liked to show her
+an English home. However, we made the place as tidy and home-like as
+possible for her reception. My husband had to be banished, and also all
+the men-servants. Bagi (our woman servant) prepared all the
+refreshments, but the princess&rsquo;s own servants handed them to her,
+as Bagi was a Parsee, and it would have meant defilement for a Moslem
+to take food from a despised follower of Zoroaster.</p>
+<p>The prince spent most of his time hunting, and my husband went with
+him on several occasions. The sport did not seem to be very exciting,
+from all accounts. The Jalal would take with him about thirty to forty
+of his followers, and form a kind of <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb70" href="#pb70" name="pb70">70</a>]</span>cordon round the spot
+where the gazelles were known to be; they then gradually closed in,
+each rider knowing and keeping his own position. At last the gazelles
+would be sighted, and all would gallop madly towards the spot, and
+shoot as they got within range.</p>
+<p>We were kept so well supplied with venison during those holidays
+that I felt I never wanted to taste it again!</p>
+<p>Quite near to Aliab&acirc;d there were some large caves in which the
+natives had stored frozen snow, so that even in the height of summer we
+were able to have a large block of ice every day.</p>
+<p>Altogether our time at this little village was very enjoyable, and
+we were quite sorry when our holiday was over and we had to return to
+the broiling heat of Yezd. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb71" href=
+"#pb71" name="pb71">71</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch6" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter VI</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Social Life in Persia</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Kerman&mdash;House-hunting and building&mdash;White
+ants&mdash;Housekeeping in Kerman&mdash;Servant question&mdash;Truth v.
+falsehood&mdash;Abdul Fateh&mdash;Bagi&mdash;Recreations&mdash;Some
+exciting rides&mdash;Persian etiquette&mdash;Dinner at the
+governor&rsquo;s.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Society is no comfort to one not
+sociable.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The social life of Europeans in Persia differs very
+much according to the town lived in. In some parts much life and gaiety
+are to be found, and in others this element is conspicuous by its
+absence. In Teheran, where we have our Legation, of course social life
+is at its height. At Isphahan, too, there is quite a large European
+community. When we were there in 1900 and 1903 there must have been at
+least fifty Europeans, and very happily and sociably all lived
+together. From Isphahan we went to Kerman, where for some five or six
+months we were the only foreigners, but in spite of having none of our
+own countrymen to call upon or visit, we were very happy. After a time
+a British consul was appointed, and we felt quite gay, and I at once
+started a European &ldquo;at home&rdquo; day, and every Wednesday our
+consul was a most regular visitor. He was always very homesick, and
+liked anything that helped to remind him of dear Old England.</p>
+<p>On one occasion we actually mustered four <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb72" href="#pb72" name=
+"pb72">72</a>]</span>Englishmen to dinner, as two travellers happened
+to be passing through at the same time, one of whom was Mr. Savage
+Landor, who entertained us with most harrowing accounts of his time
+amongst the Thibetans. Just before we left two English ladies arrived,
+so the social life at Kerman began to grow, and to-day it boasts of
+quite a number of Europeans, consisting of consuls of various nations,
+as well as missionaries, bank and telegraph employees.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e1374width" id="p072-1"><img src=
+"images/p072-1.jpg" alt="House-Building in Persia " width="586" height=
+"405">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">House-Building in
+Persia</span></p>
+<p class="first">The houses are built chiefly of sun-dried bricks of
+earth and chopped straw, and then plastered on the outside. The bricks
+are generally made on the premises.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e1382width" id="p072-2"><img src=
+"images/p072-2.jpg" alt="Persian Shops" width="589" height="438">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Persian Shops</span></p>
+<p class="first">A peep into the bazaars of Isphahan. In these open
+shops all goods are exposed to view, and the passer-by is invited to
+take a seat and inspect<span class="corr" id="xd20e1388" title=
+"Not in source">.</span></p>
+</div>
+<p>When we arrived at Kerman we found great difficulty in choosing and
+leasing a house. Many were only too anxious to show us their houses,
+and to assure us that all their property belonged to us, to do what we
+liked with; but when it came to making definite arrangements it was
+quite a different matter. So long as it was only &ldquo;talk&rdquo; the
+various would-be landlords were willing to promise everything and
+anything, but it was quite another question when suggestions were made
+as to the desirability of committing those promises to paper. At last
+we settled on a house outside the town, which possessed a nice large
+garden, but the house itself only consisted of about two rooms, and
+these were in a very tumble-down and filthy condition.</p>
+<p>The landlord (a Parsee) promised to build according to our plans,
+and to spend the whole of the first three years&rsquo; rent in making
+improvements and additions to the house. The consequence of this
+delightful arrangement was that during the greater part of our time in
+Kerman building operations were going on, and only just as we were
+leaving was the work completed and the house made inhabitable. But in
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb73" href="#pb73" name=
+"pb73">73</a>]</span>the end a very fairly comfortable house was built,
+and has been occupied ever since, I believe, by our C.M.S.
+missionaries.</p>
+<p>Our garden was very large, but only half of it had been cultivated;
+the further end we had hoped to have made into a tennis court, but
+unfortunately we had to leave before it was possible to do so. All the
+bricks used for building were made from the earth of the garden. The
+process is simplicity itself. Water is mixed with the earth till it
+becomes a thick mud, then it is stamped into the required shape by
+means of a wooden block, and then left in the sun to dry. Sometimes
+straw is mixed with the mud, when it is necessary to have very strong
+bricks.</p>
+<p>Directly we moved into our house I found to my horror that it was
+infested with white ants. This was my first experience of these
+wretched little creatures, and I hope it may be my last. They are
+disturbers of one&rsquo;s peace of mind, for once they are settled in a
+house it is impossible to get rid of them, and the only thing to hope
+for is that by continually waging war against them you may keep them
+slightly in subjection. I remember so well the day I first made the
+acquaintance of these noxious things. I had with much difficulty
+succeeded in finishing our drawing-room, and considering all things I
+may be forgiven if I confess to having felt a certain amount of pride
+as I looked at the result of my labours. Certainly it was not too
+luxurious; but it was comfortable and &ldquo;homey.&rdquo; Alas! my
+pride soon had a fall. After a day or two my husband had need of some
+book, and upon taking it from the shelf found it eaten half through! I
+then <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb74" href="#pb74" name=
+"pb74">74</a>]</span>began to hunt about, and found the room was
+swarming with these abominations, under the carpets, behind the
+pictures, cosily ensconced in books&mdash;everywhere they were having a
+right royal time. From that moment almost to the day we left, I never
+ceased to hunt and destroy these ubiquitous ants. We were having two
+new rooms built, and I said to my husband, &ldquo;One comfort is that
+the ants cannot be in the new rooms;&rdquo; but, alas, my hopes were
+vain! The builders had used an old piece of wood for a beam on which
+the ceiling rested, and this was infested with white ants, and so in a
+very short time they had <i>that</i> room, too, to revel in. I tried
+all manner of things to get rid of them, but found the most successful
+remedy was pouring petroleum down the holes from which they came. This
+drove them away from <i>that</i> hole, but they only burrowed a little
+further, seeking for a new outlet. Nothing could or can destroy them.
+As long as the queen ant remains they can never be exterminated. An
+English engineer who came to Kerman told me that, when he was living in
+India, he was building a house, and before he laid the foundations he
+offered large rewards for all queen ants found in the grounds near,
+for, said he, &ldquo;This is the only way to ensure freedom from these
+pests.&rdquo; He also told me that one night he left his evening shoes
+out in his room, and in the morning the leather was eaten half away. I
+can quite believe this now, after having seen for myself their
+tremendous digestive powers.</p>
+<p>One of our missionaries had to leave Kerman quite suddenly while we
+were there. Before leaving he packed all his most valued books into
+tin-lined <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb75" href="#pb75" name=
+"pb75">75</a>]</span>cases and had them soldered down, thinking they
+would be safe against the intrusions of white ants. Shortly after his
+departure we suspected these wretches of being at work amongst the
+books, and so came to the conclusion we had better open and see. There,
+sure enough, they were, and busily they had been engaged too, for like
+&ldquo;Mother Hubbard who went to the cupboard,&rdquo; when we went to
+the box we found it bare! if not quite, almost so; for, with the
+exception of a few stout leather covers, all trace of Mr.
+Blackett&rsquo;s valuable library was gone! Such are the literary
+instincts of white ants. But indeed nothing comes amiss to their
+tastes&mdash;books, boots, pictures, carpets, clothes, papers&mdash;all
+vanish under the business-like efforts of these horrible creatures.
+What with white ants and bad servants to contend and combat with,
+housekeeping in Kerman was enough to turn one&rsquo;s hair grey! The
+struggle was unequal, and I generally got the worst of it.</p>
+<p>To begin with, the servants we had brought with us from Isphahan
+refused to stay in such an out-of-the-world spot as Kerman, so no
+sooner had we begun to unpack than first one and then another declared
+his intention of going, until we were left stranded. Then began the
+joys of servant-hunting. In some parts of Persia this is not a
+difficult task, but in Kerman it was practically impossible to find a
+decent servant, or one that knew anything about his work.</p>
+<p>The chief drawback to Kerman domestics is the fact that they are all
+opium-smokers. The native saying in Kerman is, &ldquo;That every fourth
+man out of three&rdquo; is an opium-smoker. Although this may
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb76" href="#pb76" name=
+"pb76">76</a>]</span>be a slight exaggeration, yet it was decidedly
+hard to find any one who was not addicted to this terrible habit. Awful
+specimens presented themselves as &ldquo;cooks,&rdquo; but one look at
+them was enough! At last a veritable &ldquo;Uriah Heep&rdquo; offered
+his valuable services to us; he came armed with wonderful credentials
+and menu cards. These latter he claimed to have successfully negotiated
+when in the employ of some Frenchman, but I have grave doubts as to the
+veracity of this statement. On the strength of these menus we thought
+we could not do better than engage him; so he came, and proved himself
+to be a most aggravating specimen of humanity, specially formed, I
+believe, to try the patience and tempers of poor unsuspecting
+foreigners. Nothing ever put him out or ruffled his sweet amiability.
+How I wished it would, and that he would depart in wrath and anger at
+my repeated complaints against him! But no, nothing of the kind; he
+came to stay, and stay he did, till he bade us an affectionate and
+touching farewell on our departure from Kerman. His money accounts were
+always atrociously high, but so cleverly did he manage them that I
+could rarely detect him cheating, and at last I gave it up as a
+hopeless task, concluding the game was not worth the candle.</p>
+<p>When we were alone his cooking was passable&mdash;at least it was
+generally eatable; but if ever we had friends to dinner he always
+managed to surpass himself with some act of stupidity or wickedness, I
+never could make out which it was.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e1422width" id="p076-1"><img src=
+"images/p076-1.jpg" alt="Kerman" width="598" height="449">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Kerman</span></p>
+<p class="first">A photo taken from the top of our house in Kerman,
+showing the mountains in the distance and our garden in the foreground.
+The circular roofs are those belonging to our kitchens, the round hole
+at the top being the only means of ventilation.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e1429width" id="p076-2"><img src=
+"images/p076-2.jpg" alt="A Street in Kerman" width="585" height="405">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Street in Kerman</span></p>
+<p class="first">A corner of a street in Kerman, leading into the long,
+covered bazaar.</p>
+</div>
+<p>On one occasion the English consul and one or two others were dining
+with us. We had safely <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb77" href="#pb77"
+name="pb77">77</a>]</span>reached the &ldquo;sweet&rdquo; stage, and I
+was just beginning to congratulate myself that this time, at any rate,
+our lovely cook was not going to disgrace himself or play any trick.
+Just then a &ldquo;chocolate cream&rdquo; was handed round. It looked
+all right. The consul took some, tasted it, and promptly laid down his
+fork; his example was followed by others. I hastily called the
+&ldquo;boy&rdquo; to bring me some, and on tasting it found to my
+horror that the chocolate cream was highly flavoured with naphthalene!
+We had lately received a box from home; in it was some of this useful
+stuff for destroying moths; doubtless the cook thought it was a nice
+and specially delicate flavouring for puddings! On another occasion I
+had been experimenting on some dessert dish, which necessitated part of
+the ingredients soaking for an hour or two over a slow fire. I put
+everything ready, and left strict injunctions with &ldquo;Uriah&rdquo;
+that he was to touch <i>nothing</i>, and so I left. Shortly after,
+feeling rather uneasy as to the welfare of my concoction, I returned to
+the kitchen, just in time to see the wretched man pouring my
+&ldquo;Dream of Delight&rdquo; down the sink! I confess to having been
+guilty then for the first and last time of boxing a servant&rsquo;s
+ears; but really was the provocation not great?</p>
+<p>Another of our &ldquo;treasures&rdquo; was a man called Neamat
+&rsquo;allah. He was a splendid &ldquo;show man,&rdquo; but no good for
+work of any kind. He shone when visitors came, as he felt the dignity
+of his Sahib depended in a great measure on him.</p>
+<p>Then there was an awful boy, Rustem. I did my best to make him into
+a decent parlour-maid, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb78" href="#pb78"
+name="pb78">78</a>]</span>but utterly failed. Although only about
+eighteen years of age, he was a confirmed slave to the opium habit. His
+chief <i>forte</i> was smashing crockery and telling lies. Of course we
+never expected our servants to speak the truth, but this boy seemed the
+most incorrigible of all. One day he said to me, after I had been
+trying to instil into his mind some idea as to why we should speak the
+truth, &ldquo;Well, Khanum, what is the use of my speaking the truth,
+for if I did you would not believe me, and would only say it was a
+lie?&rdquo; This is true, I am afraid, to a great extent, for after
+being deceived so often one gets sceptical about the possibility of a
+native speaking the truth, especially if he is an opium-smoker too. And
+yet sometimes they look at you so innocently, with such an air of
+injured righteousness, that you begin to wonder if after all they are
+not for once speaking the truth; but, alas, the wonder soon passes!</p>
+<p>Shortly before leaving Kerman we were fortunate enough to secure the
+services of a real treasure in the person of an Indian. He came to
+Kerman with his master, Mr. Patrick Duncan, whose object was to sink
+artesian wells, but unfortunately he died before his work was
+completed. His man, Abdul Fateh, was heartbroken at the death of his
+master, as he had been with him for many years. He begged my husband to
+engage him, and very gladly we did so, and he proved a great comfort to
+us all our time in Persia, acting as &ldquo;<span lang=
+"fa-latn">pishkhedmat</span>&rdquo; (chief servant), not only being
+good and honest himself, but keeping the others up to their work, and
+not allowing them to cheat us too much. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb79" href="#pb79" name="pb79">79</a>]</span>Before leaving the
+subject of servants I must say just a word about our woman servant; she
+was such a dear little body&mdash;a Parsee. We called her Bagi, which
+means a female servant. She had been with Miss Sykes for a time, so
+knew a little about Feringhi ways. She was a picturesque figure,
+waddling about the house in her big baggy trousers and her gaily
+coloured overall reaching to her knees, while on her head she wore the
+usual number of coverings, in compliance with the Zoroastrian idea that
+a woman&rsquo;s head must be well covered! It is a great
+&ldquo;shame&rdquo; for a Parsee woman to be seen with her head
+uncovered. One day Bagi had been washing her hair, and the doctor
+happened to see her in passing before she had replaced her many
+coverings. She came to me in great distress to know what was she to do.
+The Sahib had seen her with her head uncovered!</p>
+<p>The recreations of Kerman are confined almost entirely to horse
+riding. There are many very good picnic places near by, and an
+excellent stretch of desert for a canter or gallop, but not so good as
+the desert outside Yezd. When we first went to Kerman I was told that I
+must on no account ride through the bazaars, as no Englishwoman had
+ever been seen in them. I might ride outside the town and view the
+bazaars from a safe distance, but this did not fall in with my ideas at
+all, and as soon as we were fairly settled down in our house I asked my
+husband to take me to see the bazaars. So one afternoon we started off
+to try the experiment, taking with us two servants, one to walk in
+front and one behind, my husband and I riding our horses. I will
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb80" href="#pb80" name=
+"pb80">80</a>]</span>not say that as we entered the dark,
+dreary-looking archways leading to the bazaars my heart did not beat a
+little faster than usual, as I thought of all the horrible things which
+had been told me as to what <i>might</i> happen when first an
+Englishwoman was seen in the open bazaar. After a few minutes, however,
+I saw there was nothing to fear, for beyond a good stare and a few
+curses from some of the people, nothing happened. I had, of course,
+taken the precaution of wearing a thick veil. My second ride through
+these same bazaars was much more exciting. It was during the time of
+the Passion Play in the month of Mohurram, referred to in another
+chapter. As we were riding quietly along we suddenly came across the
+whole company of excited, maddened creatures returning to their homes
+after the play was over. The crowd was headed by about a hundred men,
+whose garments were streaming with blood, their heads and faces covered
+with gashes of all sorts and sizes. In their hands they held and waved
+frantically their swords or daggers.</p>
+<p>Our servants were fearfully alarmed, and hurriedly turned our
+horses&rsquo; heads into a narrow passage, and hoped the crowd would
+not notice us. But unfortunately they did, and with a wild cry of
+&ldquo;Feringhi! Feringhi!&rdquo; they immediately formed up just in
+front of the opening to our passage and began their wild dance for our
+benefit. It was rather a gruesome sight in the dimly-lighted bazaars to
+see a hundred or more naked swords flashing, blood on everything and
+everybody, men yelling, shouting, cursing, and dancing. We were not
+sorry <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb81" href="#pb81" name=
+"pb81">81</a>]</span>when in a few minutes they took it into their
+heads to move on, thinking, no doubt, that they had paid great honour
+to the Feringhis by this exhibition for their special benefit. After
+this experience I felt there certainly was no longer any need for fear,
+and since then we have all ridden and walked quite freely in and
+through the bazaars. Only once was I spat upon in Persia, and that was
+in Yezd.</p>
+<p>Persians have often been called the Frenchmen of the East. They
+certainly are a most courteous and polite people, outwardly at all
+events, and are masters in the art of paying compliments to one
+another. But to a novice it is no light matter to know just the right
+amount of flattery to deal out, as it is almost as bad a mistake to
+give any one a great deal too much flattery as not to give him enough.
+The art lies in knowing just what is due to each person, according to
+the rank of life he occupies. When you wish to visit any one it is not
+polite to send word to say, &ldquo;I am coming.&rdquo; You must couch
+your message in much more flowery language, such as, &ldquo;I want to
+honour myself by coming to see your nobleness.&rdquo; The answer will
+be &ldquo;Bis&rsquo;millah&mdash;Please bring your tashrif
+(dignity).&rdquo; There is great etiquette, too, over the
+kalian-smoking and tea-drinking, each one deprecatingly suggesting that
+his neighbour should partake first and the other declining the honour
+with a sweeping bow; but every one knows who is entitled to the first
+whiff of the kalian or the first cup of tea, and no one would dare to
+think of defrauding him of his right.</p>
+<p>It seems such a pity that Persians of high class <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb82" href="#pb82" name="pb82">82</a>]</span>are
+gradually falling into European ways, for they do not suit these
+Frenchmen of the East half so well as their own manners and
+customs.</p>
+<p>While we were in Kerman the governor was one who had lived in Europe
+a good deal, and liked everything done <i>&agrave; la</i> Feringhi; he
+much enjoyed English afternoon teas, home-made cakes, &amp;c. Soon
+after our arrival there an invitation came from the governor for dinner
+the following week. On the evening appointed a carriage came for us and
+drove us to the &ldquo;Arg,&rdquo; as the house of the governor is
+called. We found a splendid dinner waiting for us, served in French
+style, about twenty courses of excellently cooked dishes. After dinner
+we were amused by Persian musicians and singers. We were entertained by
+the nephew of the governor, who apologised for the absence of his
+uncle, who, he said, was suffering from a bad attack of fever which
+prevented his presiding at the table. We heard afterwards that the real
+reason of his non-appearance was not fever, but a fear of being laughed
+at. He knew how things ought to be done according to European fashion,
+and was afraid that he had not all the necessaries to carry out a
+dinner successfully, and so preferred not to show himself. However,
+when he saw how splendidly the first dinner-party went off he decided
+to give another, so in about a week&rsquo;s time we received a second
+invitation to dinner. This time the governor himself took the head of
+the table, and did the honours of it well, too. He certainly had
+nothing to be ashamed of, for everything was served in perfect French
+style. From the soup to the dessert, with all the intermediary
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb83" href="#pb83" name=
+"pb83">83</a>]</span>courses, everything was dished up in perfect taste
+and on good china. The glass and table decorations would not have
+disgraced a European table.</p>
+<p>The Governor of Yezd, on the other hand, preferred to hold more to
+his own traditions, and I have much enjoyed a meal there with his
+family, served and eaten in true Persian style. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb84" href="#pb84" name="pb84">84</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch7" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter VII</h2>
+<h2 class="main">The Women of Persia</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Home life&mdash;Anderoon, women&rsquo;s
+quarters&mdash;Jealousy in the anderoon&mdash;Anderoon of Khan Baba
+Khan&mdash;Two days in an anderoon&mdash;H.R.H. Princess
+Hamadan&eacute; Sultan&eacute;&mdash;Visit to the anderoon of H.R.H.
+the Zil-es-Sultan.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<p class="first">&ldquo;The more your prayers to me, the more will your
+wives be in Paradise.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><i>From</i> <span class="sc">Life of
+Al-Jazuli</span>.</p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Women are weak, as you say, and love of all
+things to be passive,</p>
+<p class="line">Passive, patient, receptive, yea, even of wrong and
+misdoing,</p>
+<p class="line">Even to force and misdoing, with joy and victorious
+feeling,</p>
+<p class="line">Patient, passive, receptive; for that is the strength
+of their being,</p>
+<p class="line">Like to the earth taking all things and all to good
+converting.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">A. H. Clough.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Whilst in Persia I had a good many opportunities of
+becoming well acquainted with some of the Moslem women, especially in
+Kerman, as there I was for some time the only Englishwoman, and
+naturally the women liked to see as much of me as possible, in order to
+see and hear about life amongst the Feringhis. The Persian women are
+much more volatile and genial than their Arab sisters, but on the whole
+I prefer the latter, perhaps because I have had so much more to do with
+them. The Persian lady is ready, the moment she sees you, to shower
+compliments upon you and to tell you how much she loves you, while her
+more austere sister of Arabia takes time to consider whether you are a
+person to be trusted or not; and if after a time she does give you her
+love, it is something worth the having. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb85" href="#pb85" name="pb85">85</a>]</span></p>
+<p>When I first went to Persia I found the questions of the women most
+disconcerting, but after a time, if their conversation became too
+objectionable, I always told them it was not our custom to talk on such
+subjects, and they generally took the hint, at any rate for the time
+being. When in Kerman I started an &ldquo;At Home&rdquo; for Moslem
+ladies, and in this way I got to know some of them very well, and also
+by visiting them in their homes. They quite liked the idea of an
+&ldquo;At Home&rdquo; day, and I well remember our first one. About
+twenty ladies came, each one attended by a slave or two and a small boy
+to guard their shoes, which of course they left at the door. It was
+quite a business unrobing all these ladies from their black silk
+&ldquo;chuddars,&rdquo; and arranging each lady in her respective
+place, according to the honour due to her. We had in our drawing-room a
+long divan, about 12 feet by 6, occupying the whole of one end of the
+room, and cushioned according to Eastern ideas. On this about twelve of
+the ladies seated themselves and looked very comfortable and at ease,
+while the rest sat on chairs arranged round the room, and looked most
+uncomfortable and uneasy. By-and-by I noticed first one foot being
+tucked up and then another, till most of the ladies were sitting native
+fashion on their chairs, and it looked so curious I could hardly keep
+from smiling. After all were settled, and their chuddars and veils
+carefully folded up and put aside by the slaves, then the kalian or
+water-pipe was brought in, each slave preparing the pipe for her own
+mistress.</p>
+<p>I had arranged that my woman-servant, Bagi, should hand round tea,
+but the ladies were horrified <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb86" href=
+"#pb86" name="pb86">86</a>]</span>at the idea of taking tea which had
+been poured out by a Parsee, as they believed it would make them
+unclean for I don&rsquo;t know how long; so my poor Bagi had to take a
+back seat and see others take her place. My next &ldquo;At Home&rdquo;
+day I was wiser, and secured the services of the mother of our syce,
+who was a Moslem, as I did not like to see a strange woman doing the
+honours of the tea-table.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e1528width" id="p086"><img src="images/p086.jpg"
+alt="The Mosque Gate, City of Kerman" width="720" height="494">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">The Mosque Gate, City of
+Kerman</span></p>
+</div>
+<p>Amongst the ladies that day was the wife of one of the ex-governors
+of Kerman, and the good lady did not let any one forget that fact! They
+were always most interested in seeing and hearing all about Feringhi
+life, and were specially interested in photographs and pictures. One
+lady said to me directly she was seated, &ldquo;I want to see a picture
+of Jesus Christ;&rdquo; and on my showing her one, she most reverently
+kissed it and put it to her forehead. They much enjoyed listening to
+our little organ, and one lady was so delighted that she gave her
+husband no peace till he bought her one, and then nothing would satisfy
+her but I must go and teach her how to play. As her instrument arrived
+from Teheran with half its notes missing, it is easy to imagine that
+her musical talent (?) was somewhat put to the test. However, she was
+very proud of her instrument, and quite happy playing with one finger
+an accompaniment to some weird Persian song.</p>
+<p>Of &ldquo;home life&rdquo; in Persia there is none; there is no word
+in their language for &ldquo;home,&rdquo; and so it plays no part in
+their lives. Life in the home varies very much according to the rank of
+the husband. The poorer wives and village women are blessed by being
+obliged to work, but the better class have absolutely <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb87" href="#pb87" name="pb87">87</a>]</span>nothing
+to do, from morning till night, but smoke, drink tea, and talk scandal.
+The poorer wife is certainly the better off of the two, for she has to
+rise early in the morning to get her husband his early cup of tea
+before he goes off to work; then she has the house to look after and
+the children to think of and sew for; and last, but not least, the
+evening meal of pillau or kabob to cook ere her lord and master returns
+from his labours; while her less fortunate neighbour has nothing to do
+but to talk of the latest scandal of the anderoon, and then to pay a
+visit to another anderoon to tell and receive the latest news
+there.</p>
+<p>The anderoon is that part of the house which is given up to the
+women, and is as a rule the best part of the house, for there the men
+of the house retire when their work is done, to be waited on and fussed
+over by the womenfolk.</p>
+<p>When a man is well off and has more than one wife, he generally
+keeps them in separate compounds; but often two will be living together
+in the same anderoon, and as a rule they do not love each other very
+much.</p>
+<p>The great and chief causes of jealousy in the anderoon are the
+children, or rather lack of children. For instance, a young bride is
+brought to her husband&rsquo;s house, and for a time she is the pet and
+favourite of her husband, and all is well; but if as time passes no
+child comes to cheer her heart, then the husband soon tires of his new
+plaything and looks about for a new and prettier one, till one sad day
+the poor young wife hears that her husband is about to bring home
+another to share her life and home. We <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb88" href="#pb88" name="pb88">88</a>]</span>can imagine what rage and
+jealousy will burn in her heart, and how she will hate the new inmate
+of the anderoon, and especially if after a time her enemy becomes the
+mother of a boy. Then her hatred reaches a climax, and it is by no
+means uncommon for her to have recourse to the &ldquo;cup of
+coffee&rdquo; either for herself or her enemy. That &ldquo;cup of
+coffee&rdquo; is a most useful (?) institution in Persia, as it is
+often very difficult to detect the poison hidden therein.</p>
+<p>It is impossible for us even to think of the miseries through which
+some of these poor women pass; and if we see how unhappiness and
+wretchedness is fostered in an anderoon containing two wives, how much
+more miserable and awful must be the life when the number of wives is
+multiplied by two or even more.</p>
+<p>But while there are many unhappy anderoons, yet as &ldquo;the
+exception proves the rule&rdquo; in most cases so it does here. For I
+remember one home in which two wives were living in apparent peace and
+happiness; but here, again, there was reason for their unity, as
+neither of them had any children, and so there was no cause for
+jealousy. Their husband was an aristocratic old man of about seventy
+years of age, and he had taken these two young wives to cheer his old
+age. He had a little son by one of his many former wives, of whom he
+was passionately fond, and this boy was very ill for some months,
+suffering from heart disease. His two young wives nursed this boy day
+and night in a most devoted manner, and apparently really loved the
+boy, and were very sorry when he died. It was owing to this boy&rsquo;s
+illness that we had the opportunity of spending two days in the
+anderoon of Khan Baba Khan, and very pleasant and interesting
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb89" href="#pb89" name=
+"pb89">89</a>]</span>days they were too. It was the year that we were
+in Kerman, and we had just gone away for our summer holiday to that
+lovely garden of Mahoon, when one day a very urgent messenger came to
+my husband from Khan Baba Khan begging him to go and see his boy, who
+was very ill. The old man had sent his carriage for us, with
+instructions to his man to drive the doctor straight to his garden,
+situated some sixteen miles on the other side of Kerman, where the boy
+had been taken ill. As soon as we were ready we started off, but could
+only reach Kerman that night, where we rested, and the next day arrived
+at the garden of the Khan.</p>
+<p>It was a very pretty garden, with plenty of trees and running water.
+On our arrival we were ushered into the room prepared for us, and in a
+few minutes the poor little invalid was brought in, and even then he
+seemed to have the mark of death on his face; but he was a very
+self-willed boy, and every one had to humour him in everything, as the
+fits of temper which he indulged in were very dangerous for him in his
+weak state of health. While the doctor was examining and prescribing
+for the invalid in another room the two ladies came to see me, and
+brought a very appetising dinner; chickens cooked to perfection and
+pillaus formed the staple part of the meal. The ladies then retired,
+and my husband and I thoroughly enjoyed our first meal taken together
+in a Persian anderoon.</p>
+<p>After dinner my husband again visited the patient, and the ladies
+came to prepare our room for the night. This was quite an elaborate
+undertaking. First of all, a huge mosquito net was fixed up by
+attaching <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb90" href="#pb90" name=
+"pb90">90</a>]</span>the four corners to tapes and nailing them to the
+wall. The underneath part of the net rested on the floor; on this the
+mattresses were placed, so that once you were inside the net you were
+in what seemed like a good-sized room. In fact, during the next two
+days we used to sit inside the net reading or writing, as outside there
+was no respite from the plague of mosquitoes and sandflies. Sleeping on
+the floor is very comfortable; in fact, I don&rsquo;t quite see the
+need of bedsteads, unless the room is infested with rats or other
+creeping creatures! The next two days passed very pleasantly; whenever
+my husband went out of the room, almost simultaneously I would hear a
+voice at the window asking permission to enter, and the ladies would
+come in for a chat. We became great friends, and this friendship lasted
+till we left Kerman some months later, and then the Khan lent us his
+carriage to drive to Yezd, as he wished to express his gratitude for
+all my husband had done for his boy. Unfortunately the boy even then
+was past human aid, and after two or three months of suffering he
+died.</p>
+<p>I have always been glad of these two days actually spent in a
+Persian home, as it enabled me to see what their everyday life really
+was; but as I have said, this was quite an exceptionally happy
+anderoon, with none of the wrangling and quarrelling generally
+connected with the homes of Persian women.</p>
+<p>While in Yezd I met and soon became very friendly with a most
+charming Persian lady. She was a daughter of one of the late Shahs, and
+thus was a princess in her own right; her husband was a <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb91" href="#pb91" name="pb91">91</a>]</span>nephew
+of the late Shah, so she was doubly connected with Persian royalty.</p>
+<p>H.R.H. Princess Hamadan&eacute; <span class="corr" id="xd20e1568"
+title="Source: Sultan&ecirc;">Sultan&eacute;</span> was in many ways
+quite unlike the majority of Persian ladies. She was a strong-minded,
+clever woman, and was very anxious that her children should be brought
+up in European fashion. These children certainly had a very good time
+compared with other Persian children, as their mother refused to let
+them become little women before they had passed out of
+childhood&rsquo;s days, and although they were then nine and ten years
+old were generally playing with their dolls or other toys brought from
+Paris for their amusement. The princess very much wished her children
+to learn English, but I suggested that she should learn it herself
+first and then teach it to her children. To this she gladly consented,
+and so twice a week I used to go up and give her lessons. She quickly
+got over the A B C stage, as she had some slight knowledge of French,
+and took a great delight in picking out the words of an easy English
+reader, and in a very short time she greeted me in very quaint broken
+English: &ldquo;Good morning; I hope you are well.&rdquo;
+Unfortunately, I had to leave my interesting pupil at this stage, as we
+were leaving Persia for England, and I never saw her again; but I have
+heard that she continued her English lessons for some time. I do not
+think I ever knew any one with so many dresses as this princess had;
+every time I saw her she appeared in a different costume, and always in
+rich silks, satins, or brocades. I asked her once if she knew how many
+gowns she possessed, and she confessed that she had no idea, and added
+that it <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb92" href="#pb92" name=
+"pb92">92</a>]</span>would not be at all right for me to see her more
+than once in the same dress! And I certainly never did, although I was
+visiting her twice weekly for some months.</p>
+<p>This good lady exercised a very great influence over her husband (a
+most unusual thing in Persia), partly, perhaps, on account of her
+social position and also because she possessed a large amount of
+property in her own right. Before she came to live with her husband in
+Yezd she said she would only come with the understanding that she was
+to be the only wife, and I believe the prince kept to the agreement as
+long as she was with him. But he must have found it very hard, for I
+have heard that before his wife came no girl dared be out after dusk,
+so afraid were they of the prince and his courtiers.</p>
+<p>One day I was visiting in the anderoon in company with the lady
+doctor who was attending one of the children, and lunch was announced;
+so the prince made us sit down with them and partake of the mid-day
+meal. After lunch the prince amused himself by vaccinating all the
+children he could lay hands on (not his own, but those of the
+servants). The children did not seem to see the joke quite so much as
+the prince did! They were much too frightened to run away, and stood
+trembling in their shoes waiting for their turn to come. At that time,
+too, no one in the anderoon dared say they had toothache, for if they
+did immediately the prince would call for his forceps, and out would
+come a tooth. Perhaps it might happen to be the offender, but just as
+likely it would be an innocent tooth which had never given its owner a
+moment&rsquo;s pain! <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb93" href="#pb93"
+name="pb93">93</a>]</span></p>
+<p>I shall never forget the delicious coffee which was always served
+when visiting at this house. It was a mixture, I believe, of coffee and
+chocolate; and I have never tasted anywhere such coffee. I asked the
+princess to give me the recipe, but my make never came up to the
+original, and I think perhaps they did not mean it to!</p>
+<p>The princess was very fond of sending to Paris for boxes of goods on
+approval, and it was rather amusing to be there when the things
+arrived. Sometimes most beautiful Parisian blouses would come, quite
+unsuitable for her; but she loved to try them on and then put them
+away, never, perhaps, to be looked at again. I have very pleasant
+memories of my friendship with Princess Hamadan&eacute;, and have as a
+<i>y&acirc;d gari</i> (remembrance) a lovely silver tray of Persian
+work, which she presented to me on our leaving Yezd; also the
+photographs of her three children&mdash;two girls and a boy.</p>
+<p>It is quite impossible to tell of all the interesting visits paid to
+different anderoons; but I should like to mention some visits paid to
+the anderoon of the Zil-es-Sultan, a brother of the late Shah. He was
+then Governor of Isphahan, and my husband at that time was taking
+charge of the medical work there for a year.</p>
+<p>The governor one day sent his carriage, with the request that the
+English doctor would go to see one of his wives, and also bring his
+wife with him; so we went, and had a very pleasant three-mile drive
+from Julfa to Isphahan. Arriving at the palace, we were met by the
+chief eunuch and conducted to the anderoon, into a large room
+surrounded by glass mirrors. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb94" href=
+"#pb94" name="pb94">94</a>]</span>Here in a far corner, seated on the
+ground, was &ldquo;something&rdquo; covered with what looked like a
+large white sheet. This &ldquo;something&rdquo; turned out to be one of
+the ladies of the anderoon, who was suffering from dimness of sight.
+She was one of the prince&rsquo;s favourite wives, and so he had taken
+the trouble to allow her to see the doctor. After a great deal of
+palaver she consented to lift a corner of her chuddar, and, while
+shielding the other part of her face, to uncover her eyes. Her husband
+was very anxious for her eyes to be thoroughly examined, and he ordered
+a dark room to be speedily prepared, so that the examination should be
+as complete as possible. While we were waiting for the room and lamp to
+be ready the prince took out a little pocket-mirror from his waistcoat
+and carefully looked to see if his hair was in perfect order, and then,
+having satisfied himself that all was as it should be, he entered into
+conversation with my husband over the state of his wife&rsquo;s
+eyes.</p>
+<p>Another day I paid quite an informal friendly visit to two or three
+of his wives. Each wife had a separate compound to herself, and her own
+set of servants and slaves, and no wife was allowed to visit another
+without special permission from the chief eunuch or from the prince
+himself.</p>
+<p>That afternoon two or three had asked for and received permission to
+drink tea in the house to which we had been invited, so we had quite a
+nice little tea-party, and a very gay one too so far as the costumes
+were concerned; but the subject of dress being so stupendous, we will
+leave it for another chapter. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb95" href=
+"#pb95" name="pb95">95</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch8" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter VIII</h2>
+<h2 class="main">More About Persian Women</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Costumes&mdash;Wedding festivities&mdash;Wedding
+dinner&mdash;Kindness of Persian husbands&mdash;Story of
+brutality&mdash;Divorce&mdash;Aids to beauty&mdash;Degradation and
+cruelty of women.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Women are made by men:</p>
+<p class="line">The nations fade that hold their women slaves:</p>
+<p class="line">The souls of men that pave their hell-ward path</p>
+<p class="line">With women&rsquo;s souls lose immortality.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">John Davidson.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The indoor costume of the Persian women is not at all
+pretty or graceful. It consists of a short, loose jacket, generally
+made of some gaily coloured material, and in the case of rich women of
+bright brocaded silk or velvet, and a very short skirt, just the length
+of a ballet dancer&rsquo;s. In fact their dress is an exact copy of the
+Parisian ballet dancer. Many years ago all the women wore those
+picturesque baggy trousers, with long flowing garments over them, but
+while one of the late Shahs was visiting Europe he saw the ballet
+dancer, and his fancy was so taken by the costume, that on his return
+he ordered all the inmates of the royal harem to adopt the same dress;
+and as royalty always sets the fashion for the country, in a short time
+all the Moslem women of Persia had adopted this hideous fashion.</p>
+<p>I remember so well the first time I saw this costume; it was the
+evening of the day on which we <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb96"
+href="#pb96" name="pb96">96</a>]</span>first arrived in Isphahan. After
+dinner Miss Stuart (the bishop&rsquo;s daughter) and I were walking on
+the roof of their house, when suddenly a woman appeared on the other
+side of a wall and began chattering with Miss Stuart. I felt inclined
+to look the other way, thinking the good lady had forgotten to complete
+her toilet, but seeing that Miss Stuart did not seem surprised, I
+supposed it was all right, and so began to feel more at ease; but
+certainly the first sight of these costumes is rather alarming,
+especially if the woman is not wearing the long stockings, as they
+generally do, but often leave off in very hot weather. On their heads
+they wear a square of white muslin, and flowing down their backs, and
+attached by a pin to their hair, is a long, graceful chuddar, generally
+made of a pretty muslin or silk; and as the women walk about the house,
+these chuddars flow behind, and look very graceful indeed. The ladies
+do not like the fashion of the short skirts, and many were the requests
+made to me to cut out dresses such as I was wearing, and if I had
+wished, I could have had my time in Kerman fully occupied in cutting
+out dresses according to European fashion; but with the exception of
+pleasing two or three of my special friends, I always told them I had
+no time for dressmaking, but would always be pleased to lend them
+patterns. So ashamed were some of the women of their short skirts, that
+they would often take their long, flowing chuddars from their heads and
+wrap them round their waists, giving the appearance of a draped
+skirt.</p>
+<p>The outdoor costume of the Persian women is much more becoming than
+the indoor, though it is decidedly hot in the warm weather. It is made
+up <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb97" href="#pb97" name=
+"pb97">97</a>]</span>of three pieces; the big voluminous trousers which
+slip over the feet and cling closely to the shape of the foot, but
+above the ankle fall full and baggy; over these are worn the large
+black chuddar, the poor wearing black calico and the rich silk; and
+then, covering the face, is the veil. This veil is a long strip of
+white calico with open work for the part covering the eyes, and
+fastened together at the back of the head by brass, silver, or gold and
+jewelled clasps, according to the rank of the wearer. Through the open
+work part of the veil the woman is able to find her way about, and see
+all that there is to be seen, while no one can see the face behind the
+veil.</p>
+<p>To see a group of Persian ladies decked out in their silks and
+satins is a sight not easily forgotten. There is nothing these women
+love more than some festivity at their own or a friend&rsquo;s house,
+which gives them an opportunity of showing off their finery, and also
+of meeting all their acquaintances, and having a good &ldquo;gufti
+goo&rdquo; (chat). I was often invited when in Kerman upon these
+occasions, but found, if I accepted all invitations, my time would be
+taken up with going to betrothal feasts, weddings, &amp;c., and so I
+used to look in for a few minutes and then excuse myself. On one
+occasion I went to a wedding at the house of one of the chief mullahs
+of the town. I was asked to go at sunrise, but did not put in an
+appearance till about nine o&rsquo;clock. When I arrived, all the
+guests had been there already some hours; it was certainly a very
+pretty sight. Two large compounds were given up to the entertainment of
+the bride&rsquo;s party, while the bridegroom was holding his reception
+in another house. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb98" href="#pb98"
+name="pb98">98</a>]</span></p>
+<p>As I entered the door leading into the anderoon, I could but stand
+and admire the scene before me. Quite two hundred ladies were present,
+each one dressed in gorgeous silks and satins, and all wearing the
+graceful chuddar falling from the head. The majority of these chuddars
+were of silk&mdash;Indian, Japanese, or Persian silks, all vying with
+each other in their brilliancy and beauty. Some were rainbow silks, all
+colours merging into each other; then again, others were gaily
+flowered, and others &ldquo;shot&rdquo; or lustre silks&mdash;the whole
+forming a wonderfully harmonious and striking picture, and I longed for
+a camera that might give a true representation, both in colour and
+vivacity, of this butterfly scene before me. To add to the gayness of
+their attire, each married lady was wearing a spray or wreath of
+flowers in her hair, and many carried or wore bouquets of roses. The
+whole effect was charming, and formed a marvellous study of colour,
+gracefulness, and Eastern beauty.</p>
+<p>We have kept our hostess waiting quite a long time while we have
+been admiring her guests, but now we must hasten to pay our respects to
+her, and take our seat amongst this gay throng. I was alone that day,
+being the only European woman in the town; but it will be much more
+pleasant if my readers will come with me in imagination to that wedding
+feast.</p>
+<p>We are ushered into a large room full of gay ladies, who immediately
+all rise from the ground as we enter, and salaam us. It is rather
+difficult to know which is our hostess amongst so many, so we must be
+impartial in our salutations, and pray God that <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb99" href="#pb99" name=
+"pb99">99</a>]</span>&ldquo;their kindnesses may never grow
+less,&rdquo; or &ldquo;their hands never pain them,&rdquo; &amp;c. Then
+we all take our seats, and conversation is resumed. The ladies will
+begin with a series of questions, such as&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;How old are you?&rdquo; &ldquo;Have you a mother?&rdquo;
+&ldquo;Why do you not black your eyebrows?&rdquo; &ldquo;Are you
+happy?&rdquo; &ldquo;Is your husband kind to you?&rdquo; &ldquo;Do you
+like him?&rdquo; &ldquo;How much did your dress cost?&rdquo; and so on,
+like a group of children&mdash;and when you think they have finished,
+they will begin again. After a short interval tea is handed round. Tea,
+did I say? well, it is dignified by that name, but in reality Persian
+tea is not much more than sweetened water coloured with a drop of tea.
+To begin with, the cups are very tiny, generally made of glass. They
+are first filled up with three or four lumps of sugar, then a
+teaspoonful of tea is poured over these, and water added until the cup
+is full, and the result is&mdash;Persian tea! However, it is rather
+pleasant to drink, and helps to pass the time. After a short interval
+more tea is handed round, and then glasses of sherbet, made from juices
+of different fruits, and then, for a change, coffee is served.</p>
+<p>About noon, just as I am afraid we are all feeling very tired and
+sleepy, a welcome change comes; a stirring and commotion begins in the
+courtyard, women rush about with enormous trays on their heads and
+carrying all kinds of dishes: this is but a prelude to dinner being
+announced. Two large rooms are laid out for dinner; in each room about
+one hundred guests sit down. I was taken in by the mother of the
+bridegroom, so we will all pass in under her protection. (The mother of
+the bride <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb100" href="#pb100" name=
+"pb100">100</a>]</span>is not in evidence on these occasions, being
+supposed to be overwhelmed with grief at losing her daughter.) The
+&ldquo;table&rdquo; is the ground, so we must gracefully (?) sit on our
+heels. On the &ldquo;table&rdquo; are over two hundred different
+dishes&mdash;pillaus, chillaus, chicken, kabobs, vegetables,
+fruits&mdash;all laid out in tempting array. The hostess having
+pronounced the Moslem benediction, &ldquo;Bismi&rsquo;llah&rdquo; (In
+the name of God), all the guests fall to work in real earnest: very
+little talking is done, eating being the business of the moment. Spoons
+and forks were provided for me, but I preferred to do as they did, and
+so ate with my fingers, though it requires a good deal of practice to
+do it neatly and gracefully. As a mark of respect and honour, the
+hostess from time to time breaks off pieces of meat from her portion
+and places them on my plate, and once as a special mark of favour
+placed a dainty morsel of chicken in my mouth. I hope my readers have
+enjoyed their dinner as much as I have, for to my mind a Persian feast
+is a most delectable entertainment.</p>
+<p>After dinner we all washed our hands in a basin brought round for
+the purpose, the water being poured from an ewer on to our hands by a
+servant. Then we all retired to our reception-room of the morning, and
+again tea and sherbet were handed round, and the kalian or water-pipe
+was much in request, each lady taking a whiff and passing the long tube
+to her neighbour.</p>
+<p>But where is the poor little bride all this time? We have neither
+seen nor heard her all day long, and yet the feast is supposed to be in
+her honour. All through the long, hot June day she has been cooped
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb101" href="#pb101" name=
+"pb101">101</a>]</span>up in a tiny room, and as sunset approaches her
+friends and relations go to dress her and to decorate her from head to
+foot with jewellery and finery. Into her hair is woven a quantity of
+golden thread, so that in the distance it looks like a mass of gold,
+and must be very heavy on the poor tired little head. She is brought
+out into a large room, and seated on a chair in the middle of it; then
+every one goes up to her, and after kissing her, says, &ldquo;May you
+be blessed.&rdquo; The poor little mite (she might be thirteen years
+old, but hardly looks it) seems absolutely wretched and miserable, and
+when food is brought to her refuses to eat. Just at sunset she is taken
+to her husband&rsquo;s house in a closed carriage, and our hearts must
+ache as we think of what is in store for her. Even if her husband is
+kind to her at first, yet she has nothing much to look forward to but
+misery and degradation, and if by chance she goes to an anderoon
+already containing two or three wives, then may God take pity on her,
+for her fate will be a sad one. As soon as a man marries a girl she is
+absolutely his property, and he may do exactly as he pleases with her;
+there is no redress for the poor unfortunate girl. If the man is a
+brute and half kills his wife no one dare say a word to him, or if
+perchance there is one brave enough, he will only be told that
+&ldquo;the girl is his wife, and he can do as he likes with his
+own,&rdquo; and so it is no wonder if the shadow of the future lies
+darkly on the faces of those poor little children, as they leave their
+mother&rsquo;s home as brides to go out into the unknown which lies
+before them.</p>
+<p>I remember a poor little girl who was brought to the hospital in
+Julfa, while we were there. She had <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb102" href="#pb102" name="pb102">102</a>]</span>been married to a
+brutal man, when about eleven years old. Being very unhappy with him,
+she often used to run away and take refuge with her mother, who lived
+in a village a mile or two away from her husband&rsquo;s house. On many
+occasions he had beaten her severely for some childish fault, and each
+time she had fled to her mother, and stayed with her till her husband
+came and carried her off again by force. This went on for some time,
+till the poor child&rsquo;s life was nothing but wretchedness and
+misery.</p>
+<p>One day she displeased her husband by not cooking the dinner to his
+liking, and he was so enraged with her that he behaved in the following
+abominable manner.</p>
+<p>First of all he saw that the windows of his house were barricaded
+and the door locked: then he stripped the trembling, frightened child,
+and deliberately poured paraffin oil all over her body, and finally set
+a light to her and left her to her fate, taking care to lock the door
+after him, as he went out. The neighbours, hearing the girl&rsquo;s
+screams, rushed to the house, but the doors being locked and the
+windows fastened much precious time was wasted. When they finally
+smashed open the window it was only to find the child a mass of flames.
+They picked her up and rushed wildly with her into the street, and
+dropped her into the nearest stream to quench the flames! It was a
+marvellous thing to think that after all this there was any life left
+in the poor child. The neighbours took her to her mother, who plastered
+all her wounds with red earth and left her lying in the corner of the
+room for some ten days. Then, taking the advice of some friends, they
+procured a cradle and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb103" href=
+"#pb103" name="pb103">103</a>]</span>lifted the poor wee child into it,
+and hoisted the cradle and its occupant on the back of a donkey, and
+took her some five days&rsquo; journey to Julfa. They had heard of the
+Mission Hospital through some of their villagers, who had been treated
+there, and so they brought this little victim of Persian cruelty to the
+lady doctor, who took her in, dressed her wounds, and laid her in a
+clean, comfortable bed. All that human love and kindness could do was
+done to alleviate her sufferings, but nothing could save her life, and
+after three days she passed away&mdash;a martyr indeed to the creed of
+Islam, which enables and allows men to treat their women as something
+lower than the beasts of the field.</p>
+<p>Ought not the cries of distress and agony from the poor women of
+Persia so to rouse us, their sisters in England, that we shall
+determine to do all that lies in our power to lighten their burdens and
+to bring some rays of light into the dark lives of our Eastern
+sisters?</p>
+<p>One thing which adds greatly to the misery of these women is the
+ease with which their husbands can divorce them. A wife never knows
+from day to day whether or no her lord may not divorce her. Often for
+most trivial matters a man will cast away his wife. This being the
+case, the woman will lie and deceive her husband in order to escape
+divorcement. If the wives of Persia could only be raised to the level
+of true womanhood I believe they would become good wives and mothers,
+but while they are what they are, how can there be any hope for them?
+There is nothing but utter darkness till the true Light shines into
+their lives, and then and then only <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb104" href="#pb104" name="pb104">104</a>]</span>will the day break
+for these downtrodden, degraded beings.</p>
+<p>The Persian ladies are great beauty specialists, and bestow a good
+deal of attention upon their complexion and general make-up. They do
+not believe in beauty unadorned, for even when quite young they use the
+rouge-pot very freely, and often use it to great advantage too! I have
+often known a girl who was quite ordinary-looking, sallow and dark in
+complexion, but when dressed for her wedding I hardly recognised her,
+so changed was she by all the numerous &ldquo;aids&rdquo; to beauty.
+Her cheeks were now a lovely rose tint, and her eyebrows darkened and
+lengthened till they almost met in the middle, and the edges of her
+eyelids were also blackened with &ldquo;kola,&rdquo; and really the
+effect was very good.</p>
+<p>They also spend much time and trouble in dyeing their hair with
+henna, not only from a fear of grey hair, but also because the dull red
+tint produced by henna is the fashionable colour.</p>
+<p>The Persian lady has very little in her life to elevate or refine
+her mind, and so we cannot wonder if at times we see in her many
+revolting characteristics. When we think of all she has to endure, and
+how little happiness comes to her lot, our wonder is that she retains
+even a semblance of womanhood. Should we be any better under like
+circumstances?</p>
+<p>If a woman is treated continually as if she was nothing but a beast
+of burden, is it to be wondered at that in some cases her nature
+becomes almost as the beasts of the field? Weird stories are told of
+the extremities to which women have been driven, and the cruelties
+which they have perpetrated. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb105" href=
+"#pb105" name="pb105">105</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The following is one which I heard when in Persia. It was in the
+days when famine was rampant throughout the land. There was a certain
+man of high position who collected and stored all the corn he could
+gather, and then refused to sell at anything but famine prices; finally
+he was arrested and sent to Teheran, where he was tried and condemned
+to death. The Shah could not determine on the manner of death to be
+ordered for this rascal, but at last decided to hand the unfortunate
+man over to the mercies of the royal anderoon to be put to death by
+them. The ladies and women servants consulted together, and decided to
+keep the wretch in their quarters and kill him by inches, day by day.
+The method they chose was to cut him to pieces with scissors till he
+died!</p>
+<p>I cannot vouch for the truth of this story, and I trust it is not
+true, but I give it to you as I heard it. But one thing I know to be
+true, and that is, when a Persian woman is once roused to anger,
+jealousy, and passion, there is hardly anything too dreadful for her to
+contemplate doing, in her longing for revenge. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb106" href="#pb106" name="pb106">106</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch9" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter IX</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Some Points in the Moslem Faith</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Fasts and Feasts&mdash;Seyyids, dervishes,
+mullahs&mdash;Legends of the drowning mullah, and the yard square
+hole.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<p class="first">&ldquo;Religion&rsquo;s all or nothing.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">R. Browning.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">There are five things which every true Mohammedan must
+either believe or do. The first is the declaration of their faith or
+&ldquo;Kalimat.&rdquo; &ldquo;I declare that there is no God but God,
+and Mohammed is His Apostle;&rdquo; &ldquo;La Allaha il Allah wa
+Mohammed rasool Allah,&rdquo; this is the all-important witness, and
+must be continually recited by all true believers. Secondly, Moslems
+are bound to repeat prayers five times a day&mdash;at daybreak, noon,
+shortly before sunset, during twilight, and an hour after dark. I do
+not say all Moslems do repeat prayers at each of these times, but that
+is their rule, and those who consider themselves <i>good</i> Moslems
+adhere most righteously to these set times for prayers. Needless to
+say, it is but a form of words and position, any slight error in
+posture taking away all the benefit to be derived from the prayer.
+Often in Persia women have said their prayers in our drawing-room, if
+the call to prayer sounded while they were visiting me.</p>
+<p>Living in the East, one gets very fond of the <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb107" href="#pb107" name="pb107">107</a>]</span>call
+to prayer, heard from some neighbouring minaret. The first sound that
+catches the ear at daybreak is &ldquo;Allah, Allaho Akhbar&rdquo; (God
+is most great), repeated four times. &ldquo;La Allaha il Allah wa
+Mohammed rasool Allah&rdquo;&mdash;this is said twice, and then other
+calls and invocations, always finishing up with the final declaration
+of &ldquo;Allah, Allaho Akhbar.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>There is a great difference in the way this call to prayer is
+chanted, some men having most melodious voices, others harsh and
+grating; but wherever a true Moslem may be when he hears this call, he
+lays aside his work at once and begins to repeat his prayers, bowing,
+prostrating, touching the ground with his forehead, &amp;c., till the
+duty is finished, when he returns to his work, perhaps to his cheating
+and his lying, for this repetition of prayers has no effect on his life
+or manner of living.</p>
+<p>Thirdly, all good Moslems are supposed to give voluntarily to the
+mullahs a tithe of all they possess, also alms to the poor. In the
+Koran we read, &ldquo;Prayer carries us half way to God, fasting brings
+us to the door of His palace, but giving of alms procures
+admission.&rdquo; In many cases the mullahs are provided for entirely
+by the freewill offerings of the people, all gifts being sent
+anonymously.</p>
+<p>Fourthly, every true believer is expected to undertake, if at all
+possible, a pilgrimage, preferably to Mecca, but if that is out of the
+question then to Kerbela or Meshed. The former, of course, brings the
+greatest merit, and men and women <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb108"
+href="#pb108" name="pb108">108</a>]</span>will do all they can to
+perform this pilgrimage. On their return they are treated with great
+respect, and looked up to as little gods. They generally think so much
+of themselves after having performed this wonderful act of self-denial
+that they become quite unbearable to their friends. There is an Arabic
+proverb which shows the effect this pilgrimage to Mecca is supposed to
+have on the pilgrim. It is as follows: &ldquo;If your friend has been
+to Mecca, trust him not. If he has been there twice, avoid him. But if
+he has made the pilgrimage three times, then flee from him as you would
+from Satan himself.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Women often undertake these pilgrimages, spending weeks or months it
+may be over the journey, but resting for ever afterwards in the great
+glory and honour resulting from it.</p>
+<p>The fifth point to be observed by Moslems is that of fasting during
+the month of Ramadan. This lasts for thirty days, and is a real
+hardship for the poorer people when the fast falls during the summer,
+as from sunrise to sunset not a morsel of food or drop of water may
+pass their lips&mdash;or, as the Koran expresses it, from &ldquo;the
+time you can distinguish between a white thread and a black, then keep
+the fast until night.&rdquo; For the rich and idle it is no great
+effort, for they simply feast and revel all night and sleep by day, but
+for the servants and labouring class it comes harder, as they must work
+by day and cannot sleep properly at night. Children are always very
+anxious to begin fasting, and often little mites of five or six will
+tell you with great pride that they are keeping <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb109" href="#pb109" name="pb109">109</a>]</span>the
+fast. They generally start by fasting for half days, and how proud they
+are, and how they gloat over other children who have not yet begun this
+work of devotion! Perhaps what the people who fast miss more than
+anything else during Ramadan is their smoking: they are such slaves to
+this habit, both men and women, that it is almost life to some of them,
+and they find it very hard to go without. When the cannon booms forth
+the hour of sunset, giving the Prophet&rsquo;s permission to his
+faithful ones to break their fast, generally the first thought, after
+moistening their lips with water, is that now they may enjoy their
+smoke, either of a cigarette or kalian.</p>
+<p>Mohurram is the month of mourning, when all the country mourns for
+Hassain and Hussein, the martyred sons of Ali, who are looked upon by
+the Shiahs as the rightful successors of the Prophet. During this
+season the majority of the people go into deep mourning, and the
+bazaars are sometimes draped in black. It is in this month that the
+great Passion Play of Persia is enacted, and while in Kerman we were
+fortunate enough to have an opportunity of witnessing this
+&ldquo;tazieh,&rdquo; as the Passion Play is called. It certainly was a
+sight worth seeing at least once in a lifetime.</p>
+<p>The tenth day of this month of Mohurram is the one set aside for
+this festival, and is kept as a general holiday, so that all might go
+to see the great spectacle enacted on that day in memory of the death
+of Hassain and Hussein, the two grandsons of Mohammed.</p>
+<p>The Governor of Kerman had kindly invited us to view the performance
+from his house, and accordingly <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb110"
+href="#pb110" name="pb110">110</a>]</span>that morning at about eight
+o&rsquo;clock he sent his carriage for us, and we were driven through
+the packed bazaars till we arrived at his house, or &ldquo;Arg,&rdquo;
+as the governor&rsquo;s residence is called in Kerman. We were at once
+admitted by a private entrance, and ushered into a large verandah,
+which had been set apart for the use of Feringhis. As my husband and I
+were the only Europeans in the city at that time, we had it to
+ourselves. Here, before the commencement of the Play, we were regaled
+with tea, coffee, jam, bread, cheese, and cakes. Looking out, the sight
+was a wonderful one. In front of us was a large garden in which I
+suppose some 10,000 people were gathered. At one end of the garden was
+a large &ldquo;hoze&rdquo; or tank of water, over which was spread a
+huge awning, and near by a large pulpit from which the mullahs preached
+to the people, and tried to rouse their feelings to a high pitch of
+excitement. One man was specially successful in doing this, causing the
+women to wail wildly and beat their breasts frantically, and the men to
+smite their heads. After a delay of about an hour, the performance
+began with a long procession, which entered the garden at the far end
+and wound in and out till it had traversed the whole garden. This
+procession represented the family travelling as captives after the
+death of Hassain and his brother.</p>
+<p>First of all came six gaily decorated camels, with men riding upon
+them, beating drums and making a tremendous noise. Then came more
+camels carrying the tent furniture and other goods, followed by horses
+and mules laden with heavy loads. After these came four stretchers
+borne by men, on which lay four dead <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb111" href="#pb111" name="pb111">111</a>]</span>bodies (figures
+stuffed) representing Hassain and his three brothers, who perished from
+want of water, which had been cut off from them by their enemies. On
+each dead body sat a dove, supposed to be mourning. Then came a
+horrible sight, one which I never wish to see again. About a hundred
+madly excited men dressed in long white robes, armed with swords, were
+slashing their heads until the blood was streaming down their faces on
+to the robes, white, alas, no longer! As they reached the tank of water
+they formed into a line all round it, and kept up for some length of
+time a horrible kind of war dance. It was a ghastly sight. The dancers
+looked more like demons than men. One poor man fainted from loss of
+blood, and had to be carried away, and a little boy of about eight
+years of age also collapsed. It was bad enough to see grown men cutting
+themselves, but to see the little children being wounded in this way
+was terrible. This is, of course, looked upon as a work of great merit.
+The more numerous and deeper the gashes, the greater the merit they
+accrue to themselves. The wild dance was continued till a sign was
+given to the dancers by the governor, that he had seen enough to
+satisfy him. Then they all lined up in front of the verandah where the
+governor was sitting, and demanded that five notorious prisoners should
+be released from the prison close by. He at once acceded to their
+request, as it was the custom at this festival for the governor to
+release from the prison any prisoners who are interceded for by these
+wild, fanatical dancers.</p>
+<p>After this ghastly sight came a motley crowd of men and children on
+horses, all beating their breasts or heads. Some of the riders were so
+tiny that <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb112" href="#pb112" name=
+"pb112">112</a>]</span>they had to be held on to their steeds by
+men-servants.</p>
+<p>Then came another body on a bier, with a man dressed in a
+lion&rsquo;s skin, embracing and fondling the dead body. It looked so
+weird to see the pseudo-lion kissing and hugging the remains of its
+late friend and master, and expressing in various ways great sorrow and
+anguish over its loss.</p>
+<p>After this came several batches of boys stripped to the waist, all
+beating their breasts. It was really a very pretty sight, for the boys
+kept such perfect time, one boy acting as leader, like a group of
+children performing gymnastic exercises. As their hands simultaneously
+clapped their breasts, there was a sharp report, at which they all
+shouted &ldquo;Hassain! Hussein! Hassain! Hussein!&rdquo; The whole
+proceeding was an interesting but sad spectacle, which I shall never
+forget. The clash of swords, the beating of drums, the weird wailing of
+the women, accompanied by their spasmodic shrieks, the shouting and
+yelling of the fanatical mob, all contributed to the making up of one
+of the most notable scenes of Eastern life. And yet it made one&rsquo;s
+heart ache to watch this crowd of human beings for whom Christ died,
+and who as yet know nothing of Him, but are only anxious to obtain
+merit for themselves by taking part in these gruesome religious
+performances.</p>
+<p>All over Persia &ldquo;religious men&rdquo; are much looked up to
+and respected. Of these the dervish is one very much to the fore. He is
+a religious mendicant, having taken a vow either for a certain time or
+permanently. The vow is not a very strict one, only consisting of
+poverty and obedience to a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb113" href=
+"#pb113" name="pb113">113</a>]</span>chief, to whom a portion of the
+alms received must be paid.</p>
+<p>These dervishes wander from place to place, chanting, singing, and
+begging. The natives do not like to refuse them anything, from fear
+more than love, perhaps, as it is considered meritorious to give alms
+to these religious people.</p>
+<p>They generally dress in dirty white, wear their hair long, and carry
+an axe or club, more often than not beautifully chased and inlaid, also
+the well-known dervish bowl, which is made from a huge nut, carved and
+decorated. Often these dervishes will come and seat themselves in the
+courtyard and begin their monotonous chant, and it is very difficult to
+get them to move, as the servants will never use force, and their
+reiterated requests to &ldquo;move on&rdquo; meet with no success
+whatever till the dervish is satisfied that he has extracted all the
+&ldquo;backsheesh&rdquo; likely to be forthcoming.</p>
+<p>The Seyyids are another class of people much respected in the
+country. They claim to be the direct descendants of the prophet
+Mohammed, and are allowed many privileges on account of this. They wear
+a green turban or waistband, to be known of all men. Looked upon as a
+religious body, the natives are afraid to offend them in any way.</p>
+<p>Then there are the &ldquo;mullahs,&rdquo; or priests of the Islamic
+faith. They exercise a great deal of power over the people, but are
+not, as a rule, loved by them over much.</p>
+<p>The Persians are Shiah Mohammedans, whilst the Arabs and Turks are
+Sunnis. As the former <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb114" href=
+"#pb114" name="pb114">114</a>]</span>know very little Arabic, the
+reading of the Koran is to them an unknown tongue, and they regard
+their &ldquo;mullahs&rdquo; as &ldquo;sacred men,&rdquo; able to
+interpret the &ldquo;Holy Book.&rdquo; Thus the Shiah priest gains
+great influence, not to say considerable wealth, in Persia, and the
+Shah himself fears the influence of the priesthood. The Sunnis, on the
+other hand, know Arabic, as a general rule, and many of them are able
+to consult the Koran for themselves, the result being that the
+&ldquo;mullah&rdquo; gains but little influence compared to the
+&ldquo;Shiah&rdquo; priest, and is often quite poor. Briefly, the Shiah
+priesthood is comparable with that of the Roman Catholic Church of
+Christendom, while &ldquo;Sunni&rdquo; mullahs do not claim, or would
+claim in vain, any such authority, thus more nearly resembling the
+&ldquo;status&rdquo; of Church of England clergy. The result is
+obvious: Persia is a priest-ridden country; in &ldquo;Sunni&rdquo;
+lands the people are freer, and dare think for themselves. It is a
+well-known fact that a Persian mullah will exact the uttermost farthing
+from his followers, but will never lend a helping hand to them in their
+need. For instance, if a man dies without an heir, his property
+according to law goes to the poor, but unfortunately it has to be done
+through a medium, and that medium is the mullah. He promptly pockets
+the property and gives its <i>supposed</i> value (valued, mark you, by
+himself) to the poor. We can imagine what a large percentage the poor
+receive of that property.</p>
+<p>Here is a story which was told us in Kerman, illustrating how loath
+the mullahs are to give anything away. The scene is a large pool of
+water, in it a mullah struggling to reach the bank, and in <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb115" href="#pb115" name=
+"pb115">115</a>]</span>danger of drowning. A passer-by, seeing his
+distress, runs to his aid and cries, &ldquo;Give me your hand, oh my
+lord, and I will pull you out.&rdquo; &ldquo;No, indeed,&rdquo; answers
+the mullah, &ldquo;I have never yet given anything to any one, and I
+certainly will not begin now.&rdquo; The kindly passer-by, not liking
+to leave the mullah in his sad condition, tries to think of another way
+out of the difficulty. Suddenly a bright idea strikes him, and running
+to the priest, he calls out, &ldquo;Will you <i>take</i> my hand, then,
+oh my lord?&rdquo; &ldquo;Gladly,&rdquo; says the mullah, and allows
+himself to be drawn out of his perilous position.</p>
+<p>Another rather good story is told, showing the meanness of the
+priests. A man had agreed to pay a workman eight krans (2s. 8d.) for
+digging a hole one yard square. At the end of the day the workman had
+only dug a hole half a yard square, so the master went to a mullah to
+ask him how much he ought to pay the workman. &ldquo;Why, of
+course,&rdquo; says the mullah, &ldquo;half the sum agreed upon, that
+is, four krans.&rdquo; After deliberating awhile he said, &ldquo;No,
+two krans is enough,&rdquo; and this decision he gave as final,
+although he impressed upon the man that one kran was all he could
+legally claim, as he had scientifically only done one-eighth of his
+work!</p>
+<p>In the next chapter we shall see a little of another religious sect,
+which is fast becoming a power in Persia. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb116" href="#pb116" name="pb116">116</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch10" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter X</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Other Religious Sects</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Other religious sects&mdash;The B&aacute;b and
+Babism&mdash;Short sketch of life of the B&aacute;b&mdash;His
+imprisonment and execution&mdash;<i>Parsees</i>, or
+Zoroastrians&mdash;Persecutions of Parsees in seventh
+century&mdash;Sacred writings of Parsees,
+Zendavesta&mdash;Fire-worshipping&mdash;Fire temples&mdash;Holy
+fire&mdash;Parsee wedding&mdash;Costume of women&mdash;Death
+customs&mdash;Burial customs.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<p class="first">&ldquo;How many crimes have in religion&rsquo;s name
+been wrought.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Lucretius.</span></p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Too oft religion has the mother been</p>
+<p class="line">Of impious act and criminal.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Lucretius.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The founder of Babism was a native of Shiraz, by name
+Mirza Ali Muhammed, born in 1820; it was not till 1844 that he publicly
+proclaimed himself to be The B&aacute;b or Gate, through which all who
+wished for peace and happiness might pass into the inner chambers of
+mysticism and sacred mysteries. He soon gathered a large following
+around him, and in an astonishingly short time the fame of the
+B&aacute;b was noised abroad throughout the length and breadth of
+Persia. At first the Government and mullahs paid little attention to
+this new religion, thinking and believing it to be only a passing fancy
+of the people, but in its second year it took such rapid strides that
+they began to be alarmed, and to look about for means of checking its
+progress. The B&aacute;b was placed in prison, and his followers were
+forbidden, on pain <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb117" href="#pb117"
+name="pb117">117</a>]</span>of death, to teach or discuss their new
+religion. Soon afterwards, however, the B&aacute;b escaped, and fled to
+Isphahan, where the governor of that city protected him for some
+months, but on the death of the governor the B&aacute;b was again cast
+into prison. During his imprisonment he was not idle, for he wrote many
+books, setting forth his doctrines, and exhorting his followers to
+remain firm to their new faith in the face of all opposition and
+persecution.</p>
+<p>While the B&aacute;b was busy in prison, his followers were also
+busy, preaching and teaching, and by all means trying to extend the
+doctrines of their leader, and so great was the opposition and strife
+raised that the Government decided that the B&aacute;b must forfeit his
+life as a means of putting a stop once and for all to this new and
+dangerous sect. Accordingly the B&aacute;b was brought from Tabriz,
+where he had been imprisoned, and after a mock trial was sentenced to
+death. On the day appointed for his execution an enormous crowd
+gathered to witness his end&mdash;many from curiosity, and also many
+from love and pity for the youthful martyr, who to the last maintained
+the calmness and courage which had characterised his whole term of
+imprisonment.</p>
+<p>To make the lesson more emphatic, it was decided that two of the
+B&aacute;b&rsquo;s chief disciples were to be executed with him. One of
+these at the last moment recanted, and so was allowed to go free. It
+was said that his recantation arose not from cowardice or fear of
+death, but from a special revelation given to him, whereby he was
+commanded to recant in order to be able to carry <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb118" href="#pb118" name="pb118">118</a>]</span>away
+all books and papers belonging to the B&aacute;b, and deposit them in a
+safe place: however that may be, it is known that after an interval of
+two years he too became a martyr. Efforts were made to entice the other
+disciple to recant, but all proved unavailing, and he and his master
+the B&aacute;b were suspended, by ropes placed under their arms, to a
+beam placed a few feet from the ground. As they hung thus the disciple
+was heard to say, &ldquo;Master, art thou satisfied with me?&rdquo; and
+then the order was given to fire. When the smoke cleared away the body
+of the disciple was found to be riddled with bullets, but no B&aacute;b
+was visible. What had happened? Had a miracle been performed, and an
+angel been sent to rescue him from the hand of his persecutors? This
+was the thought of some, and, indeed, a miracle had been performed, for
+in spite of the many bullets which had been aimed at him not one had
+touched the B&aacute;b, but had only brought him deliverance by
+severing the ropes which bound him, so that he fell to the ground
+unhurt. At first it seemed as if the multitude would have pity on the
+unfortunate man, and spare him a second attempt, but these feelings
+were only of short duration, and the B&aacute;b was again dragged forth
+from his hiding-place, where he had taken refuge, and was a second time
+suspended. A fresh batch of soldiers had to be told off for the
+execution, as the first company absolutely refused to fire again. This
+time there was no intervention, and in a second or two the body of the
+young martyr of Shiraz was pierced with bullets. The bodies were cast
+out to the jackals, but were afterwards recovered and buried
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb119" href="#pb119" name=
+"pb119">119</a>]</span>in Teheran by the order of the new B&aacute;b,
+Mirza Yahya.</p>
+<p>This event took place in 1850, and in spite of persecutions,
+oppositions, and cruelties, the Babis continued to grow in number and
+strength, and to-day they form a very large and important community
+throughout Persia. In fact, by the very barbarity of the persecutors
+their own end was defeated, for all the people were astonished at the
+heroism and fortitude displayed by the martyrs. Professor
+Brown<a class="noteref" id="xd20e1814src" href="#xd20e1814" name=
+"xd20e1814src">1</a> says, &ldquo;Often have I heard Persians who did
+not themselves belong to the proscribed sect tell with admiration how
+Suleym&aacute;n Khan, his body pierced with well-nigh a score of
+wounds, in each of which was inserted a lighted candle, went to his
+execution singing with exultation.&rdquo; The effect of such courage
+and heroism was only to stir up more people to be disciples of the
+B&aacute;b, as the following story shows.</p>
+<p>During the persecutions in Yezd, a young man went to scoff and jeer,
+but when he saw with what courage the martyrs endured torture, and met
+death, he called out, &ldquo;I am a Babi, kill me too.&rdquo; While we
+were in Yezd the Babis were keeping very quiet, but, nevertheless, a
+great work was going on amongst them, but none dared say, &ldquo;I am a
+Babi.&rdquo; A year or two after our departure from Persia we heard of
+terrible cruelties and persecutions enacted against these suffering
+people, but in spite of all, their number continues to grow and
+increase throughout the whole land of Persia, and to-day the Babis are
+stronger and more numerous than ever before. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb120" href="#pb120" name="pb120">120</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The Parsees of Persia are another most interesting and important
+sect: they live chiefly in Yezd and Kerman. They are a people within a
+people, living in Persia, and with the Persians, yet keeping quite
+distinct from the present inhabitants of the land. Only a few thousand
+of this large and influential body of people, who up till the seventh
+century were the inhabitants of the land, now remain in Persia. When
+the armies of Mohammed conquered Persia, most of these people fled to
+India; others preferred to adhere to the new religion, while a few
+remained faithful to their old belief, and refused either to flee to a
+new and strange country, or to change their creed, and so they remain
+till this day a distinct people, following their own customs, and
+holding to their own religion amidst a new and domineering nation.</p>
+<p>The founder of the Parsee religion was one called Zoroaster. Very
+little is known of his life; his birthplace is uncertain, though it is
+known he lived for many years in Bactria of Eastern Persia, and it is
+probable that it was in this place that he thought out the idea, from
+which in later years he constructed his religious system. The priests
+of this religion were the &ldquo;magi&rdquo; of the Old and New
+Testament, and it is very likely that at least one of the &ldquo;wise
+men of the East&rdquo; who went to offer their adoration to the
+new-born King was from these Parsees of Persia.</p>
+<p>The date of Zoroaster is very uncertain too. It is known, however,
+that in the sixth century B.C., when Cyrus was king, the Zoroastrian
+religion was firmly established in Western Persia. Some <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb121" href="#pb121" name=
+"pb121">121</a>]</span>historians give him a date between 1000 and 1400
+<span class="sc">B.C.</span></p>
+<p>The sacred writings of the Parsees are called the Zendavesta, and
+are said to be inspired by God through one of their priests. This
+priest, having cleansed and bathed himself in the most careful manner,
+lay down to sleep clothed in pure white linen. He is said to have
+fallen into a deep sleep, from which he did not awake for seven days;
+at the end of which time he awoke and recited the faith of the
+Zoroastrians, while priests in waiting committed the whole to writing.
+In this way was the Zendavesta reduced to the form of a book.</p>
+<p>While fire-worshipping forms a large part of their religion, it is
+quite a mistake to suppose it comprises the whole, for Zoroaster laid
+down many laws concerning morality and the duties and destiny of
+man.</p>
+<p>The Parsees of to-day, as seen in Kerman and Yezd, are a fine race;
+their commercial ability is very much above that of the ordinary
+Persian, and they are a much cleaner and more moral set of people than
+their conquerors. They regard fire as something sacred, as being the
+symbol of their god, and nothing will induce them to treat fire
+lightly. For instance, we could never persuade our Parsee servants to
+blow out a candle; and smoking is prohibited on account of their
+religious principles, though nowadays many do smoke in secret. Their
+habits of cleanliness and continual personal ablutions have perhaps
+contributed to make them the healthy race they are to-day. A good
+Parsee will wash <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb122" href="#pb122"
+name="pb122">122</a>]</span>many times a day, always before and after
+praying, as well as on many other occasions.</p>
+<p>All Parsees wear a girdle round their waists, twisted into three
+knots in a most complicated and intricate way. Whenever they wash they
+must take this off, and after their ablutions are over they replace the
+girdle, repeating certain prayers for each knot. These three knots
+represent the threefold cord, which is not easily broken, of good
+thoughts, good words, good deeds.</p>
+<p>There are said to be some thirty or forty fire temples still
+existing in Yezd, and in these the holy fire is always burning; the
+light is never allowed to go out, it being the work of the priests to
+keep it continually bright and trimmed.</p>
+<p>The office of priesthood descends from father to son, and besides
+attending to the religious needs of the people, the priest is also
+supposed to look after their temporal necessities, especially in the
+case of poverty-stricken families.</p>
+<p>Parsee women have a much freer life than their Persian sisters; they
+go about the streets quite openly, never veiling their faces, and
+altogether enjoy a much better position than the Mohammedan women. In
+some cases the women are even allowed to eat with the men of the
+house&mdash;a great concession indeed! The children are bright, and in
+many cases clever. When seven days old an astrologer is consulted as to
+the future of the infant; and when seven years old a boy is blessed by
+the priest, who invests him with the sacred girdle, at the same time
+throwing upon the child&rsquo;s head portions of fruit, spices, and
+drops of perfume. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb123" href="#pb123"
+name="pb123">123</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Girls are married when quite young, and the astrologer is again
+consulted on this important matter. When in Yezd we were invited to a
+Parsee wedding, and a very interesting sight it was. The
+invitation&mdash;which was written in letters of gold, and arrived some
+days before the date fixed for the ceremony&mdash;was acknowledged and
+accepted by us with much pleasure, as we were anxious to see something
+of the customs of these interesting people.</p>
+<p>When the day arrived we arrayed ourselves in gala attire, and set
+out to the house of the bride. It was just midnight when we arrived,
+and already the guests, some hundreds of them, had been feasting for
+hours&mdash;in fact, I might say &ldquo;days,&rdquo; for this was the
+seventh and last day of the wedding festivities, and many of the guests
+had been present each day. They all looked thoroughly worn-out and
+tired. A room had been set apart for the Europeans to dine in, and just
+after midnight a most sumptuous dinner was served, consisting of about
+a dozen courses. When this had been satisfactorily disposed of we
+dispersed to visit the different rooms occupied by the guests, my
+husband remaining with the men, while I and another English lady sought
+out the bride to give her our salaams and good wishes. The confusion
+was terrible&mdash;drums beating, cymbals clashing, women dancing and
+singing, children yelling and crying, and amid it all, seated upon the
+ground, sat the poor little bride-elect. No one seemed to be taking
+much notice of her, every one apparently aiming to amuse herself in the
+most noisy way possible.</p>
+<p>By-and-by a large, silk-covered cushion was brought out from a back
+room, and on this the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb124" href=
+"#pb124" name="pb124">124</a>]</span>bride was placed, and covered
+entirely with a large silk shawl. I wondered what was going to happen
+next, when suddenly a group of men appeared at the door. These were the
+representatives of the bridegroom, who came to ask formally for the
+hand of the bride. They came and stood in front of the covered-up
+bride, and called in a loud voice, &ldquo;Oh, my daughter, will you
+consent to be the bride of this man?&rdquo; (naming the bridegroom).
+This was repeated six times amidst a silence which could be felt, all
+listening for the answer of the bride. On their repeating the question
+the seventh time, a very timid &ldquo;Balli&rdquo; (Yes) was heard
+coming from the region of the shawl, upon which the commotion started
+again with redoubled vigour, in the excitement caused by the acceptance
+on the part of the bride of her bridegroom. Of course this was a mere
+form, as everything had been arranged long beforehand. I shocked one
+good old lady by asking what would happen if the bride had said
+&ldquo;No&rdquo; instead of &ldquo;Yes&rdquo; to the oft-repeated
+question!</p>
+<p>After receiving this very satisfactory answer to their inquiries the
+men went off, and the women began to prepare the bride for the last and
+most important part of the programme&mdash;viz. that of taking her to
+the home of the bridegroom. They covered her with a large silk chuddar,
+and over her head threw a thick shawl, so that the poor girl could see
+nothing, and had to be led and supported on each side by her proud
+relatives. The distance between the two houses might perhaps have taken
+five minutes to walk in an ordinary way, but that night we took quite
+an hour. The procession was headed by two <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb125" href="#pb125" name="pb125">125</a>]</span>&ldquo;vakeels&rdquo;
+(agents), who were bargaining the whole way as to the dowry of the
+bride. Every now and then they would come to a standstill, and the
+bride&rsquo;s vakeel would refuse to go a step further till more money
+had been paid, and after a great deal of shouting, gesticulating, and
+wrangling, the bridegroom&rsquo;s vakeel would end by throwing some
+coins into the other&rsquo;s hand, and then the procession would
+proceed for a few steps till blocked once more, while the whole process
+of bargaining was gone through again. Fireworks were going off the
+whole time, and were apparently laid along the route, for every now and
+then we were startled by having a rocket fly up from beneath our feet.
+About every twenty yards or so we came across huge bonfires of dried
+faggots right in our path, and the whole procession had to wait till
+these had died down before they could pass on. Arriving at the door of
+the bridegroom&rsquo;s house, a final and most exciting scene took
+place between the two vakeels, the one threatening even then to take
+the bride away, and the other, getting more wildly angry every minute,
+declaring he did not want the bride, and would not pay a
+&ldquo;para&rdquo; (&frac12;d.) more for her, and ending up by giving
+the sum bargained for. If we had not known it was all part of the
+ceremony, we might have expected the two men to come to blows; but it
+all ended happily, and we trooped into the new home of the bride. Then
+came a long time of weary waiting, during which my sympathies went out
+to the tired, frightened bride; but just as we thought there was
+nothing more to wait for, three interesting scenes took place. The
+first was the actual marriage <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb126"
+href="#pb126" name="pb126">126</a>]</span>ceremony, in which a priest
+read many long prayers from a book, and then tied the couple together
+with a silk thread and pronounced a blessing upon them.</p>
+<p>The second scene took place in the open courtyard, in the centre of
+which was burning the sacred fire placed on a pedestal. The priest and
+parents of the bride and bridegroom now joined hands with the happy
+couple and walked in solemn single file round and round the fire, the
+priest chanting the whole time; this was done seven times, and then all
+retired quietly, leaving the fire burning in the court.</p>
+<p>To the third and final scene only a favoured few were admitted;
+fortunately I was amongst that number. Into the room prepared for the
+newly-married couple the little wife was now led, and for the first
+time the coverings were taken from her head and face. She was placed on
+a huge silk-covered mattress, then the husband came and took his seat
+by her side: both of them were looking thoroughly miserable! One of the
+women then brought a copper basin and ewer filled with milk, and the
+bridegroom proceeded to wash his wife&rsquo;s feet in milk, and she in
+her turn washed his hands. This done, we all bade farewell to the
+newly-married couple and the wedding ceremony was at an end. Hastily
+saying good-bye to our host and hostess, and expressing our good wishes
+for the welfare and happiness of the young people, we made our way
+homewards, to find it was not very far off dawn, but having thoroughly
+enjoyed our first experience of a Parsee wedding ceremony.</p>
+<p>The costume of the Parsee women is rather <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb127" href="#pb127" name=
+"pb127">127</a>]</span>quaint and pretty; it consists of very baggy
+trousers gathered in at the ankle. These trousers are often made of
+very pretty pieces of embroidery joined together. As soon almost as a
+girl can sew she begins to embroider strips of brightly-coloured
+materials in order to have them ready for her wedding trousseau. Over
+these garments they wear a loose shirt reaching to just below the
+knees; this is also made of strips of different coloured materials, or
+in the case of a bride is also embroidered. Then comes the head-dress:
+it is far beyond my powers to say of how many pieces this is composed,
+or as to how they are arranged. The number of coverings on their heads
+is legion! First comes a little tight cap fitting closely over the head
+and ears. Over this is arranged in a most marvellous way some six or
+seven different pieces of calico or linen, the top one of all generally
+being a very bright calico, a mixture of red and yellow being the
+favourite pattern. The men are obliged to wear dowdy colours as a mark
+of submission to the powers that be. For the same reason also they are
+not allowed to ride through the bazaars, and if a Parsee is riding
+outside the city and meets a Moslem he promptly has to dismount and
+walk till he has passed his more fortunate neighbour; <i>then</i> he
+may resume his riding. This is, I believe, the case even if the Moslem
+be a poor man and the Parsee a flourishing merchant.</p>
+<p>To pass from life to death. A Parsee when he is dying sends for the
+priest, who anoints him with sacred juice, repeats some verses from the
+&ldquo;Avesta,&rdquo; and prays for a safe crossing of the
+&ldquo;bridge&rdquo; and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb128" href=
+"#pb128" name="pb128">128</a>]</span>admission into Paradise. As soon
+as the breath has left the body, a dog is brought in from the street to
+ascertain if life is really extinct. This idea originated evidently
+from the old Zoroastrian idea that the evil spirit is expelled from a
+dead body by means of a &ldquo;four-eyed dog&rdquo; being brought in
+and made to look at the dead, the extra &ldquo;two&rdquo; eyes being
+represented by two black spots over the brow of the dog. The body is
+then placed on a bier and carried to the Towers of Silence, or
+&ldquo;dakhmehs,&rdquo; by men specially set apart for that purpose.
+These men are looked upon as unclean from their contact with the dead,
+therefore only those whose work it is to do so will touch the body, the
+cleansing necessary after defilement from contact with the dead being
+so exacting and laborious.</p>
+<p>On arriving at the dakhmeh, prayers are recited by the priests and
+the body laid on an iron grating, so that when the vultures and other
+birds of prey have done their horrible work, the bones fall down and
+are safe from molestation by dogs and jackals.</p>
+<p>The dakhmehs, always some distance from the town, are built in a
+circular shape, some of the largest being 200 or so feet in diameter.
+They are generally built on rising ground, and form a landmark for many
+miles around.</p>
+<p>Prayers for the dead are said for three or four days after the
+death, and holy fire is kept burning in the house of the deceased
+during the whole of that time, as the soul is not supposed to leave the
+body till the fourth day after death.</p>
+<p>The better-class Parsees &ldquo;mourn&rdquo; for a year after the
+death of a near relative; that is, they keep up <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb129" href="#pb129" name=
+"pb129">129</a>]</span>certain ceremonials for that length of time, and
+offer flowers and fruits on behalf of their dead.</p>
+<p>The Parsees have a governing body called the Anjiman. This consists
+of a number of leading men, representatives of each class of society.
+The Persian Government acknowledges the Anjiman, and accepts one of its
+number to act as its representative. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb130" href="#pb130" name="pb130">130</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1814" href="#xd20e1814src" name="xd20e1814">1</a></span> &ldquo;A
+Year amongst the Persians.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch11" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter XI</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Desert Delights</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Songs of the desert&mdash;Sunsets, sunrises,
+mirages&mdash;Illness in the desert&mdash;Mehman khanehs,
+caravanserais&mdash;Chappa khanehs&mdash;Lost in the desert&mdash;Its
+cruelties, and sadness.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;The desert wide</p>
+<p class="line">Lies round thee like a trackless tide</p>
+<p class="line">In waves of sand forlornly multiplied.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">F. W. Faber.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">To a lover of the desert a journey across its
+boundless tracts is always full of interest and delight. It is strange
+what an attraction the desert has for some people, and stranger still
+is the fact that this magnetic power increases as time passes, and
+instead of wearying of the wilderness, they love it more and more. And
+any one who has once heard the call of the desert is always longing to
+answer that call, and to fly once more, as a needle to its magnet, to
+that great, wondrous world. For it <i>is</i> a world of its own, this
+great, boundless ocean of sand&mdash;a world altogether different from
+any other part of God&rsquo;s earth.</p>
+<p>I once heard an address on &ldquo;The Desert,&rdquo; and the speaker
+said that he did not think it possible for any one with an uneasy
+conscience to bear the solitariness of the desert. Be this as it may,
+one thing is sure: no one can live and travel in the desert without
+feeling the majestic Presence of God. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb131" href="#pb131" name="pb131">131</a>]</span>Everything speaks of
+Him, the great sea of sand, the flowers springing into blossom at His
+word, the tiny lizard darting across your path, and other countless
+creatures, all finding life and sustenance in the desert, each telling
+of the wonderful Creator who watches over and cares for all.</p>
+<p>The songs of the desert, too, are fascinating; songs which, heard
+elsewhere, would seem incongruous and lacking in harmony. The camel or
+mule bells, booming out in the silence of the night, remind one of home
+and loved ones. Often have I been awakened in the night by the sound of
+the caravan bells, and for a moment thought they were the bells of the
+dear old church in Devonshire. Then, again, the crooning songs of the
+muleteer, as he trudges along hour after hour, have a peculiar charm,
+which grows on one wondrously after a while. And what can be said of
+the marvellous mirages&mdash;visions which come as messengers of hope
+and leave us victims of despair? For who has not experienced relief and
+joy at the sight of some beautiful mirage, resembling the welcome sight
+of a village with trees and water, all apparently within easy reach of
+the weary traveller, but which in a moment of time vanish, leaving
+blank disappointment behind. And where can be seen such glorious sunset
+effects as in the desert? especially when, as is so often the case in
+Persia, the desert is surrounded by mountains and hills, which catch
+the after glow, and reflect all those indescribable shades of crimson,
+gold, and blue, all merging into a beatific and not easily forgotten
+vision.</p>
+<p>But to come to the more practical side of desert life. Travelling in
+the desert is not all a path of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb132"
+href="#pb132" name="pb132">132</a>]</span>roses, but, given good
+health, fine weather, and pleasant company, it is a very enjoyable way
+of passing two or three weeks. On the other hand, I know of nothing
+more wretched than being overtaken by illness when far away in the
+desert. <i>Then</i> you feel how utterly alone and helpless you are,
+for it is impossible to travel on, and at the same time well-nigh
+impossible to stay where you are! We have had this experience more than
+once during our many travels, and found it not at all pleasant. Once I
+was taken ill in this way, and the only place to be found as shelter
+was a filthy stable, full of rats, cockroaches, and other horrible
+creatures.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e1929width" id="p132-1"><img src=
+"images/p132-1.jpg" alt="A Mountain Pass" width="587" height="407">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Mountain Pass</span></p>
+<p class="first">The traveller from Resht to Teheran passes through
+very varied scenery. Beginning with beautiful forests of walnuts,
+planes, willow, and olives, he soon loses this wealth of vegetation as
+he ascends the Elburz, and once these mountains are crossed, the track
+lies chiefly through the desert, with its ranges of mountains away in
+the distance.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e1936width" id="p132-2"><img src=
+"images/p132-2.jpg" alt="A Caravanserai" width="586" height="408">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Caravanserai</span></p>
+<p class="first">A specimen of one of the &ldquo;hotels&rdquo; of
+Persia. These caravanserais are built in the form of an open square.
+The rooms are situated round the quadrangle, while the courtyard is the
+resting-place of camels, mules, horses, and donkeys.</p>
+</div>
+<p>If you wish thoroughly to enjoy a journey across the desert, you
+must choose your time well and wisely. The best time is the early
+spring, before the great heat begins. If it is essential to travel
+during the summer, all the stages have to be done by night, and this is
+much more tiring, as it is seldom possible to sleep during the day
+owing to the pest of flies, mosquitoes, and other lively
+companions.</p>
+<p>The rest-houses of Persia are of three grades or kinds, viz.
+&ldquo;mehman khanehs,&rdquo; &ldquo;chappa khanehs,&rdquo; and
+caravanserais. The first of these three are found between Resht and
+Teheran. They are supposed to be run after the plan of a European
+hotel! Beds are supplied, and sometimes a tooth-brush and comb! The
+traveller is shown into a room in which the beds are kept ready for all
+passers-by: it is not thought necessary to change the bedding too
+often! The furniture consists of a washstand, table, and couple
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb133" href="#pb133" name=
+"pb133">133</a>]</span>of chairs, and everything is as dirty as can be.
+I much prefer the ordinary caravanserai, which is found all over
+Persia. These are generally built by a wealthy man who wishes to do
+some &ldquo;good deed,&rdquo; to make a name for himself, and gain
+merit in Paradise. A caravanserai is not the cleanest spot on earth!
+But after travelling a little you get used to a certain amount of dirt,
+and are very much surprised if by chance you come across a fairly clean
+rest-house. These caravanserais are built, as a rule, in the form of a
+square, the sides of which are occupied by rooms leading off the
+courtyard, the centre being the resting-place of mules, donkeys,
+horses, and all other kinds of animals. At the end of the stage you fix
+on the cleanest of these rooms, and your servant sweeps all the
+accumulated dirt and dust of ages into one corner, thus raising a cloud
+of dust and disturbing the peace of myriads of &ldquo;pilgrims of the
+desert.&rdquo; After waiting a few minutes to allow the dust to settle
+a little, you then furnish your room for the night by spreading a rug
+on the filthy floor, and setting up your travelling beds, chair,
+tables, &amp;c. As likely as not, there will be no door to the room, so
+you knock in a couple of nails and fasten a curtain over the doorway to
+keep out the prying eyes of your too near and inquisitive neighbours.
+Then you begin to think about your evening meal, and your servant goes
+off to bargain and wrangle over some unfortunate fowl, the result being
+that in about an hour&rsquo;s time your dinner is ready, and shortly
+after you very thankfully retire to rest, hoping for the best.</p>
+<p>The chappa khanehs, or post-houses, are often <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb134" href="#pb134" name="pb134">134</a>]</span>a
+trifle cleaner than the caravanserai. Here the animals are kept for the
+post, and any one travelling &ldquo;chappa&rdquo; is supposed to find
+fresh relays of horses at each of these places, but very often the
+number is short, and the poor, wretched, underfed animal has to do duty
+for a second stage: a &ldquo;stage&rdquo; is anything from fifteen to
+thirty miles. My husband once rode &ldquo;chappa&rdquo; from Yezd to
+Kerman, a distance of 250 miles, in 2&frac12; days, to attend an
+English doctor who was very ill with typhoid fever. It was very hard
+and rough riding; the roads were bad, the horses worse, some of the
+animals being blind, others lame, while the majority of them were so
+over-worked and badly fed that it seemed impossible that they could
+ever do the stage. A doctor once riding in this way to visit a
+European, is said to have arrived at one of these post-houses, and
+finding no horse, demanded a mule. On this beast he made the next
+stage, to be told on arrival that there was only a donkey available.
+Nothing better presenting itself, he accepted this mount, and in time
+reached the next stage, where he was met with the comforting
+announcement that the only animal at liberty was a cow! History seems
+uncertain after this point, so we will draw a veil over it!</p>
+<p>Sometimes these caravanserais and chappa khanehs are the only signs
+of life to be seen at the end of a stage. There they stand, alone,
+surrounded on all hands by vast stretches of desert, and form a
+landmark for miles around. One such I remember very well, as each time
+we passed that way it seemed to have become more lonely and desolate.
+Visible from a distance of 5 farsakhs (18 miles), it made <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb135" href="#pb135" name="pb135">135</a>]</span>the
+stage seem very long! The atmosphere is so rarefied that distant
+objects appear near, and the buildings, which were in reality 15 miles
+away, looked quite close at hand. In this chappa khaneh we were once
+guilty of inscribing our names on its already well-filled walls. Some
+years after a lady was visiting us in Mosul, and told us she had read
+our names in that far-distant chappa khaneh.</p>
+<p>It is not a very pleasant sensation to be lost in a desert. Only
+once did this experience befall us, and then we were glad when it was
+over.</p>
+<p>We were on our way from Yezd to Kerman, and had reached the second
+stage out. We had arranged with our muleteer to start at a certain hour
+that morning, but when we came down from the &ldquo;<span lang=
+"fa-latn">bala khaneh</span>&rdquo; (upstairs room) where we had been
+sleeping, we found no signs of our caravan being ready to start. After
+loitering about for some time, we decided not to wait any longer, but
+to ride on ahead. This was quite contrary to our usual custom, as we
+always found it wiser to see the caravan off first, otherwise the
+muleteers dawdled half the morning away. However, we thought this once
+we would alter our plans, as the dawn was even then breaking, and we
+knew that in a very short time the sun would be scorchingly hot. So off
+we went, telling our servant to follow as soon as possible. We received
+minute instructions as to which direction we were to take, and thought
+we could not possibly mistake our road.</p>
+<p>Outside the town, on the edge of the desert, we came to two roads,
+one leading straight ahead, the other branching to the left. We decided
+to take the former, thinking it looked more trodden, thereby
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb136" href="#pb136" name=
+"pb136">136</a>]</span>showing more signs of traffic. So we went gaily
+on. My husband occasionally remarked, &ldquo;I hope we are on the right
+road,&rdquo; and I always lightly answered, &ldquo;Oh yes, I am sure we
+are,&rdquo; as I pointed out to him the fact that we were following the
+same path along which another caravan had evidently passed a few hours
+before. Howbeit we were <i>not</i> on the right road, as we very soon
+found to our cost. By this time the sun was blazing down upon us, and
+we began to wonder why our servants and caravan had not caught us up.
+Time went on, and not a sign of life was to be seen. Standing in our
+stirrups, we scanned the horizon, but nothing could we see but the
+scorching sand. We then began seriously to think that we had taken the
+wrong turning and were lost. Lost in the desert, without a drop of
+water or a scrap of food! Pleasant thoughts these were as companions!
+We could not go back: to go forward was worse than useless. After
+considering a little as to the best thing to be done, we decided to
+gallop on till we came to a small hill to be seen in the distance. This
+we accordingly did, and as we neared the summit saw to our great
+thankfulness a tiny speck on the horizon in the direction from which we
+had come. This &ldquo;speck&rdquo; soon developed into a moving object,
+and by-and-by we could see the figure of a man and horse galloping
+hard. As the horse and rider came nearer, our thankfulness was indeed
+great to see that the rider was our own servant, George. If ever we had
+cause for thankfulness it was then, and we certainly said, and felt
+from our very hearts, &ldquo;Alhamd&rsquo; llillah&rdquo; (Praise be to
+God!), and vowed we would never stray <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb137" href="#pb137" name="pb137">137</a>]</span>away again from our
+caravan unless we were quite sure of our road.</p>
+<p>Our man was so delighted to see us safe and sound that he wept for
+joy. After a long delay the caravan had at last started from the chappa
+khaneh just as the sun was rising, and set out upon its way. They were
+all surprised to think we had gone so far, but concluded at first that
+we had galloped on in order to reach the lunching-place before the
+great heat. On arriving at the spot, however, great was their dismay to
+find we had not yet arrived. Our servant immediately rode back to the
+village to make inquiries. On his way he met a man who told him he had
+seen us riding off in the opposite direction. George immediately took
+the path indicated, with the result already told. By the time we
+regained our caravan we were well-nigh worn out with heat and thirst,
+having been under the blazing sun without food or water for most of the
+hottest hours of the day, but very thankful to be on the right track
+once more.</p>
+<p>One thing that saddens a European traveller during a journey in
+Persia is to see the cruel way in which the muleteer often treats his
+animals. The sufferings of these poor beasts are terrible. I often
+longed to be able to thrash the muleteer for his cruelty to a poor,
+long-suffering little donkey. Bowed down, maybe, under a load twice his
+own size, the poor ass does his best to keep up with the other animals,
+but only receives kicks and hard knocks for his pains. The wretched
+creature is urged on and on by having a steel or iron instrument run
+into some horribly sore place by his kind <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb138" href="#pb138" name="pb138">138</a>]</span>and compassionate
+owner. Often have I seen a mule or donkey stumble and fall beneath its
+enormous load, unable to raise itself, till its master with blows and
+curses comes to lend a hand. Again and again will this happen, till at
+last the poor beast can go no further, and is left to its fate. Death
+is the kindest master some of these suffering creatures possess.</p>
+<p>I remember once seeing a mule unloaded, and the sight under the
+pack-saddle was enough to make one&rsquo;s heart ache. A deep wound
+about twelve inches long was exposed to view, just under the arch of
+the saddle, where all the heaviest pressure and friction came. The
+owner then heated till red hot a long wire rod, passing it through and
+through this wound till the poor creature was nearly mad with pain and
+agony. The next day a boy was ordered to ride this wretched beast, but
+the stench from the wound was so great, and the flies attracted by it
+so numerous, that he could not endure it, and asked to be given another
+animal. This request was granted, but the poor brute of a mule had to
+pay the penalty by receiving an extra load upon his poor wounded back.
+At the first town we came to, the muleteer sold this mule, doubtless to
+some one who would work the last particle of strength out of him. Poor
+burdened beasts of the desert! one can only hope for them a speedy end
+to their troubles, and rest hereafter.</p>
+<p>Another sad sight to be seen in the desert sometimes, are brick
+pillars in which some unfortunate victim has been walled up alive. This
+is a horrible method of inflicting capital punishment. The victim is
+put into the pillar, which is half built up in readiness; <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb139" href="#pb139" name="pb139">139</a>]</span>then
+if the executioner is merciful he will cement quickly up to the face,
+and death comes speedily. But sometimes a small amount of air is
+allowed to permeate through the bricks, and in this case the torture is
+cruel and the agony prolonged. Men bricked up in this way have been
+heard groaning and calling for water at the end of three days. At other
+times the victim is placed in the pillar head first, and in this way he
+is walled up.</p>
+<p>The first time I saw these pillars was in the desert outside Yezd,
+and I could hardly believe the awful tales which were told me of the
+cruelties perpetrated; but alas, they were all too true! It is sad that
+the beauty of the desert should be desecrated by such things.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb140" href="#pb140" name=
+"pb140">140</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch12" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter XII</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Persian Medical Missions<a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1994src" href="#xd20e1994" name="xd20e1994src">1</a></h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">The need of them&mdash;Work in Isphahan&mdash;The
+&ldquo;little devil&rdquo; transformed into a
+boy&mdash;Amputation&mdash;Brothers in adversity&mdash;H.R.H.
+Zil-es-Sultan as a patient&mdash;Fanaticism overcome.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;What restless forms to-day are lying, bound</p>
+<p class="line">On sick beds, waiting till the hour come round</p>
+<p class="line">That brings thy foot upon the chamber stair,</p>
+<p class="line">Impatient, fevered, faint, till thou art there,</p>
+<p class="line">The one short smile of sunshine to make light</p>
+<p class="line">The long remembrance of another night.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">H. E. Hamilton
+King</span>.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">&ldquo;Medical Missions&rdquo; need no apology or
+excuse. Even in the comparatively few years that have elapsed since
+their commencement, they have abundantly justified their existence,
+both from the missionary standpoint, and also as philanthropic
+agencies. If this be true for purely pagan lands, it applies even more
+accurately to work in Mohammedan countries. Medical missionary work is,
+without doubt, the golden key that unlocks the door of the heart of the
+most fanatical Moslem, be he Persian, Arab, Kurd, or <span class="corr"
+id="xd20e2019" title="Source: Yezedee">Yezidee</span> (devil
+worshipper). I write this deliberately, after eight years&rsquo;
+experience in Persia, Palestine, and Mesopotamia. But in this book it
+is not meant specially to emphasise the missionary aspect of our life
+in these distant lands, but more to give a slight glimpse of
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb141" href="#pb141" name=
+"pb141">141</a>]</span>native life as we found it, and the following,
+therefore, must be taken as notes from a doctor&rsquo;s diary, covering
+a period of eight years&rsquo; work in Persia and Mesopotamia.</p>
+<p>The year 1900 found us at Isphahan. We were living in Julfa, the
+Armenian suburb of that great city, and I had temporary charge of the
+C.M.S. Medical Mission. The hospital at that period was simply a native
+house that had been adapted, more or less, for the requirements of a
+dispensary and hospital. There was no lack of work, patients coming
+from Isphahan itself, and from all the country round about. Soon after
+settling down to the routine work, a little Persian boy was brought to
+me from an outlying village by his father. He was about twelve years of
+age, and his face was badly disfigured from a &ldquo;hare-lip.&rdquo;
+The Persians believe that this congenital malformation is the mark left
+by the foot of the Evil One, so this poor boy was known in his village
+by the unenviable title &ldquo;little devil,&rdquo; and had been a good
+deal tormented by his playfellows. He was admitted to hospital,
+operated upon successfully, and after some ten days&rsquo; careful
+treatment the dressing was finally removed, and I handed the boy a
+mirror that he might look for the first time upon his &ldquo;new&rdquo;
+face. As I watched his countenance while he regarded himself
+steadfastly in the glass, I was amply repaid for the time and trouble
+spent, by his look of joy, incredulity, and amazement. Tears of joy
+rolled down his face as he kissed my hand, and murmured brokenly,
+&ldquo;I am no longer a little devil, I am no longer a little
+devil!&rdquo; He could go back to his village now gladly, no longer
+fearing <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb142" href="#pb142" name=
+"pb142">142</a>]</span>to join in the games of his comrades, and I feel
+sure he afterwards often posed as a hero in his little village, as, the
+centre of an admiring throng, he recounted the details of his visit,
+treatment, and cure at the Mission Hospital.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2028width" id="p142-1"><img src=
+"images/p142-1.jpg" alt="A Very Ancient Bridge" width="584" height=
+"401">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Very Ancient Bridge</span></p>
+<p class="first">Built over the river which divides the city of
+Isphahan from its Christian suburb of Julfa.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e2035width" id="p142-2"><img src=
+"images/p142-2.jpg" alt="A Typical Street in Baghdad" width="513"
+height="419">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Typical Street in
+Baghdad</span></p>
+</div>
+<p>In all Mohammedan lands, doctors always find it extremely difficult
+to persuade their patients to submit to amputation. However hopeless a
+condition the injured limb may be in, many would rather die than enter
+Paradise maimed. Some perhaps fancy that after death, when the prophet
+Mohammed comes to conduct them over that fragile bridge that leads to
+the &ldquo;realm of the blest,&rdquo; he would indignantly repudiate
+the claims of an armless or legless disciple! However that may be, the
+fact remains that many a poor patient dies who might, by timely
+amputation, have recovered and lived for many years. But curiously
+enough, soon after our arrival in Julfa, I admitted, within a few days
+of each other, two Persians suffering from diseases of the legs
+necessitating amputation, and both, after much persuasion, agreed to
+the operation being performed. Both were men, and had been admitted to
+different wards, but as after-events proved, neither knew of the
+other&rsquo;s presence in the hospital: both thus believed that
+<i>he</i> was the only Mohammedan doomed to pass the rest of his life
+bereft of one leg, with the possible risk of non-admittance hereafter
+to the Moslem Paradise.</p>
+<p>The two amputations were duly performed, on different days; the
+amputated limbs being at once handed to the relatives for decent
+interment. Both patients made good recoveries, their progress being
+somewhat retarded by their continual lamentation <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb143" href="#pb143" name="pb143">143</a>]</span>over
+their irreparable loss. In due course of time, crutches were provided,
+and the two men were encouraged to practise walking with their aid. A
+day or two later I was standing at the door of the operation theatre,
+which opened into a corridor, with which both the men&rsquo;s wards
+communicated. Suddenly the doors of each ward opened simultaneously,
+and on the threshold stood these two men, leaning on their crutches,
+their faces a perfect picture as they beheld each other. Remember that,
+in some curious manner, neither had heard of the presence of the other
+in the hospital, and both firmly believed that <i>he</i> was the only
+Mohammedan that had ever submitted to the indignity of losing a limb,
+and lo and behold, here was a brother in affliction! Crutches were
+hurled on one side, and the two men, hopping across the corridor,
+excitement lending them the needed strength, fell into each
+other&rsquo;s arms, rolling over and over on the floor, weeping,
+condoling, exclaiming, while we watched the scene, highly amused, but
+also feeling inclined to weep in sympathy.</p>
+<p>The Governor of Isphahan was H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan (Shadow of the
+King), elder brother of the late Shah. In former years he had been much
+more powerful, and practically ruled over Southern Persia, but his
+enemies in Teheran roused the suspicions of the Shah against him. He
+was summoned to the capital, and there kept a prisoner in his house,
+but ultimately allowed to return to Isphahan shorn of his former
+power.</p>
+<p>The Zil-es-Sultan had his own private physician, but would often
+call in the English doctor either for himself or his household; in this
+way I made his <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb144" href="#pb144" name=
+"pb144">144</a>]</span>acquaintance, and, like most Europeans who have
+come in contact with him, admired both his shrewdness and ability. He
+always proved himself a good friend to the English mission, and later I
+got to know much more intimately his eldest son, H.H. Jalal-el-Dowleh,
+who was the able governor of Yezd, a city some three hundred miles
+eastward of Isphahan.</p>
+<p>Soon after reaching Julfa, I was sent for by the governor to examine
+his eyes. I found him in a garden outside the city, which he had just
+had constructed for a summer residence. He received me cordially, and,
+after the business part of the interview was over, chatted freely,
+telling me of all he had undergone at the hands of other physicians. A
+few years before, he had become alarmed about the state of his
+eyesight, and became possessed with the idea that he was gradually
+going blind. He believed himself to be suffering from a very hopeless
+eye disease, very prevalent in Persia, known as &ldquo;black
+cataract&rdquo; (glaucoma), and despite the assurance to the contrary
+given by Dr. Carr (the English doctor) and others, he persisted in
+sending for two eye specialists, one from Paris, the other from London.
+Both had thoroughly examined his sight, and had confirmed Dr.
+Carr&rsquo;s assurances that there was no disease, but his fears had
+put him to considerable expense, as both the specialists were treated
+right royally. Laughingly he told me how much he had dreaded the
+interview with the London specialist, and how the fateful day had at
+last come. The doctor had merely lightly placed his fingers on the eye,
+felt the tension, and then had smilingly assured His Royal Highness
+that there was no fear of glaucoma, <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb145" href="#pb145" name="pb145">145</a>]</span>a subsequent careful
+examination confirming this verdict. &ldquo;And to think,&rdquo;
+pathetically added the governor, &ldquo;that I had spent all those
+thousands of pounds for nothing!&rdquo; Of course I at once suggested
+that to have had all his fears of blindness so happily set at rest more
+than compensated for any expense that he might have incurred, but he
+remained unconvinced.</p>
+<p>During the year we remained in Isphahan I had many opportunities of
+being received by the governor. He always treated me with the same
+kindness, and upon our departure for Kerman, presented me with a large
+signed photograph of himself.</p>
+<p>Isphahan is a great city that has passed through many vicissitudes:
+at one time it was the capital of Persia. Its population to-day is
+probably about 150,000. As in all Shiah (Mohammedan) lands, the priests
+(mullahs) possess great power. The Moslem archbishops are termed
+&ldquo;mujtiheds.&rdquo; In each Persian city there are generally two
+mujtiheds, one official (Sheikh-es-Islam), the other elected by the
+people, and the latter, as a rule, possessed the greater influence.</p>
+<p>In 1900 the popular mujtihed was the eldest of three brothers, all
+mullahs. His power was very great&mdash;too great for the taste of the
+Shah, if one may credit rumour. Only a few days after our arrival, a
+carriage was sent for me, from the second brother of this mujtihed, who
+for many weeks had been anxiously looking forward to the arrival of an
+English &ldquo;hakim,&rdquo; as he was suffering from a troublesome
+disease which might at any time develop serious symptoms. All these
+Isphahan mullahs had proved themselves hostile <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb146" href="#pb146" name="pb146">146</a>]</span>to
+the presence of foreigners, and on more than one occasion they had
+endeavoured, by preaching against them in the mosques, to inflame the
+populace and cause a riot.</p>
+<p>At the patient&rsquo;s house I was joined by another doctor (Dr.
+Aganoor), who was also the English Vice-Consul, and to whom we were
+indebted for many acts of kindness during our stay in Isphahan. The
+mullah was really his patient, and I was called in for consultation as
+to the advisability of operating. We were ushered into a large room
+with a fountain playing in the centre, and there we found the patient,
+supported by both his brothers, besides innumerable friends.</p>
+<p>We sat in solemn conclave for over an hour, discussing the pros and
+cons of the case, and then, having decided upon the course of
+treatment, we took our departure. Some days later we were again sent
+for, and found our patient in great pain, and the whole house crowded
+with his innumerable friends, who had hurriedly come together at the
+rumour of his approaching death.</p>
+<p>Our patient was in a very excited state, angrily refusing the
+consolation offered by his disciples and friends, and violently
+shouting, &ldquo;A thousand tomans (&pound;200) to any one who can take
+away this pain.&rdquo; Then, as he felt an extra bad twinge, &ldquo;Ten
+thousand tomans to any one who will cure this pain&rdquo; (about
+&pound;2000).</p>
+<p>However, we soothed him, injected a little morphia, assured him
+there was no immediate danger, and as the sedative commenced to work,
+and the pain disappeared, with it went all thought of rewarding
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb147" href="#pb147" name=
+"pb147">147</a>]</span>his benefactors: on the contrary, he took extra
+trouble to explain how poor a man he really was, and that it was due to
+the malice of his enemies that rumour reputed him wealthy. However, to
+cut a long story short, by means of a simple operation, and much
+patient care and attention on the part of Dr. Aganoor, he ultimately
+made a good recovery, and was really grateful, using his influence
+afterwards rather to restrain than augment the anti-European fanaticism
+of his other two brethren. Later a nephew of the chief mujtihed,
+himself a mullah, actually consented to come into hospital to undergo
+an urgently needed operation, and this proving successful, gained for
+us another staunch friend from priestly quarters, whose friendship
+stood us in good stead on another occasion which might have ended
+rather differently, but for his intervention. A few months had elapsed:
+rumours still reached us from the city of occasional attempts made to
+stir up the fanaticism of the people against us, the chief offender
+being the third and youngest brother of the mujtihed before
+mentioned.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2081width" id="p148-1"><img src=
+"images/p148-1.jpg" alt="Using the X-rays in Julfa Hospital" width=
+"583" height="405">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Using the X-rays in Julfa
+Hospital</span></p>
+<p class="first">The two assistants are both Armenians. The girls make
+very good nurses, and the boys as a rule quickly become very efficient
+helpers in the mission hospitals.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e2088width" id="p148-2"><img src=
+"images/p148-2.jpg" alt="A Ward in the Julfa Hospital" width="585"
+height="403">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Ward in the Julfa
+Hospital</span></p>
+<p class="first">This was a corner of the men&rsquo;s ward in the old
+hospital at Julfa. Now a large new hospital has been built in Isphahan
+with accommodation for one hundred patients.</p>
+</div>
+<p>One day Dr. Aganoor and I were both sent for in a great hurry. We
+heard that the whole city was in an uproar, that this fanatical mullah
+had been poisoned, some said &ldquo;by order of the Shah,&rdquo; others
+that the governor had asked him to a feast, and as he returned, ere
+reaching home, the symptoms had started; others that the women of his
+&ldquo;anderoon&rdquo; (quarter of the house in which no man but the
+husband may enter) had given him &ldquo;oil of bitter almonds&rdquo; by
+mistake. On approaching the house we found a crowd round the door, and
+the house itself packed with disciples and friends of the great
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb148" href="#pb148" name=
+"pb148">148</a>]</span>man. We were hurriedly shown into a large hall,
+with marble pillars and floor, densely crowded with a mass of human
+beings, all engaged in watching the last gasps of the poor mullah, who
+was lying on a pile of carpets stretched on the marble floor. We learnt
+to our dismay that he had been unconscious for four hours, and
+apparently precautions had been taken that the English doctors should
+not be called in until that amount of time had elapsed. Before that
+intent, silent, fanatical crowd, we did all that could be done to save
+the life of the man who had been our bitter enemy, taking turns to
+perform artificial respiration, &amp;c., but all in vain, for, as in my
+turn I worked the dying man&rsquo;s arms, he took his last breath, and
+I whispered Dr. Aganoor that all was over. It was getting towards
+midnight. Julfa was three miles distant, and we were alone in the midst
+of that fanatical crowd. Well did my colleague know that once the
+intimation was given that the end had come, the scene would baffle
+description; the whole city would be roused, and our lives might even
+be in danger; knowing these things, he whispered me to go on performing
+artificial respiration while he got ready to go. So I went on with my
+task, working the dead man&rsquo;s arms until all was ready for our
+instant departure. Then reverently folding his hands on his breast, I
+drew over his face the coverlet, as an intimation that all was over. I
+never again wish to hear such a yell as then arose from the throats of
+that great throng. Doors were flung open, the mob from without rushed
+into the room, women poured in belonging to the dead man&rsquo;s
+household, shrieking, wailing, tearing their clothes and hair.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb149" href="#pb149" name=
+"pb149">149</a>]</span>Some of them made a wild rush at us as they
+passed, and it really looked a bit serious, for already amidst the
+uproar we could detect occasional cries of &ldquo;The Feringhis have
+poisoned him.&rdquo; To my relief, amidst the excited throng I noticed
+the face of my old friend the mujtihed&rsquo;s nephew, who had been an
+in-patient in the hospital, and when he noticed that I had observed
+him, he beckoned us to follow him. We obeyed gladly, and he led us away
+by a private passage, which finally emerged into a public square a long
+distance from the dead man&rsquo;s house. There our good Samaritan left
+us, promising to send us our horses and servants, whom we had left
+waiting outside the patient&rsquo;s house. As we waited for them to
+come, we could hear the sound of cries from all parts of the city,
+followed by wailing of women, and the scurrying of many feet, as all
+flocked to the quarter where the holy man&rsquo;s body lay. At last our
+servants and animals arrived, and we made haste to escape, reaching
+home after midnight, thankful to God for preserving us from what might
+have proved a very dangerous position. Next day we heard that the whole
+city had gone into mourning; all the bazaars were shut, and the shops
+draped with black, and this mourning was kept up five whole days.
+Rumours were persistently circulated that the English doctors had
+poisoned the mullah, but no one really believed it, and I was able to
+attend the city dispensary as usual, even during the funeral
+ceremonies, and patients rather increased than diminished, some of the
+dead man&rsquo;s relatives even coming for treatment.</p>
+<p>So ended priestly opposition; the chief mujtihed himself was
+frightened at the mode of his brother&rsquo;s <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb150" href="#pb150" name=
+"pb150">150</a>]</span>death, and kept very quiet, for fear, perhaps,
+that a similar accident might happen to him. His surviving brother and
+relatives were now quite friendly, and a few years later Dr. Carr was
+able to obtain ground and build an excellent hospital in Isphahan
+itself, welcomed alike by officials and priests. There is also an
+excellent Women&rsquo;s Hospital (C.M.S.), in charge of Dr. Emmeline
+Stuart, who has for many years given her life to work amongst Moslem
+women, and whose name is held dear by many a poor Persian village
+woman, who has found relief and loving care at her hands, and those of
+her staff. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb151" href="#pb151" name=
+"pb151">151</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e1994" href="#xd20e1994src" name="xd20e1994">1</a></span> By Dr.
+A. Hume-Griffith.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch13" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter XIII</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Pioneer Medical Mission Work in Kerman<a class=
+"noteref" id="xd20e2111src" href="#xd20e2111" name=
+"xd20e2111src">1</a></h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Pioneer Medical Mission work in Kerman&mdash;Waiting
+for drugs and instruments&mdash;Native assistant proves a broken
+reed&mdash;First operation in Kerman&mdash;An anxious
+moment&mdash;Success&mdash;Doctrine of &ldquo;savab&rdquo; convenient
+to the Moslem&mdash;Fanaticism tempered with prudence&mdash;Opium
+slaves&mdash;Persian therapeutics&mdash;Persian quacks and their
+methods&mdash;Sure way of curing cancer&mdash;Hysteria.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Charms for lovers, charms to break,</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1099">Charms to bind them to you wholly,</p>
+<p class="line">Medicines fit for every ache,</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1099">Fever and fanciful melancholy.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">R. Bridges.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">We had been appointed to open a Medical Mission in
+this city, and as soon as our temporary residence in Isphahan was
+finished, proceeded to our original destination. We arrived at Kerman
+early in 1901, and received a hearty welcome from the only other
+European there&mdash;the Rev. A. R. Blackett, also of the Church
+Missionary Society. Two houses were secured, both outside the city
+wall; in one we took up our residence, while the other was made into a
+dispensary, and small temporary hospital. Unfortunately we arrived
+before our supply of drugs and surgical instruments, so we had to do
+our best with the very small stock of medicines borrowed from our
+stations in Isphahan and Yezd. However, patients began to come in large
+numbers, and the out-patient department was soon in full swing.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb152" href="#pb152" name=
+"pb152">152</a>]</span>We had brought with us from Isphahan two
+Armenians to act as assistants, one for dispensing, the other (a man
+who had been employed in the Mission for many years) to interpret and
+help generally in the work. I had hoped much from this last-named
+assistant, and had relied upon him greatly for advice and help, as he
+had been in Kerman before, and knew the people; but I soon found him a
+&ldquo;broken reed.&rdquo; He was married and had a large family, which
+he had been obliged to leave behind in Isphahan, and very soon he began
+to show signs of home-sickness. Then he commenced to imagine himself
+ill, and developed symptoms of different ailments. In the first place
+he one day came to me with a woeful face, and besought me to carefully
+examine his chest, for he was convinced he was developing phthisis.
+After being reassured on this point, he became absolutely sure that he
+had heart disease; next his kidneys troubled him, and so on, until he
+became a confirmed hypochondriac, and completely useless for work. One
+day I remember his coming to me imploring that I would inject morphia
+to relieve him of the intense pain from which he was suffering. I
+gravely took the hypodermic syringe, and carefully injected distilled
+water, and the pain disappeared with lightning rapidity!</p>
+<p>However, I had to send him home, and I believe that, once safely
+reunited to his family, he at once lost all his symptoms, and was able
+to resume his old work at the hospital.</p>
+<p>In the meanwhile my surgical patients were clamouring for
+operations, more especially those <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb153"
+href="#pb153" name="pb153">153</a>]</span>afflicted with cataract. I
+had opened another dispensary in the city itself, and many poor blind
+people had come for treatment. It went to one&rsquo;s heart to have to
+send them away day after day with the same disheartening story.
+&ldquo;The instruments have not yet come; until they arrive, nothing
+can be done.&rdquo; I fear that many commenced to think that the
+English doctor was a fraud, and that his excuses concerning the
+instruments resembled those framed by their own &ldquo;hakims&rdquo; to
+hide their own ignorance. At last the boxes actually arrived. They had
+to be brought by caravan from Bushire (the port in the Persian Gulf) to
+Kerman, <i>vi&acirc;</i> Shiraz and Yezd, a distance of some eight
+hundred miles, taking a couple of months.</p>
+<p>We admitted our first in-patient, a well-known merchant in the city,
+who had been blind for three years with cataract. The Persian surgeons
+also operate for this disease, using the old Eastern operation known as
+&ldquo;couching.&rdquo; An incision is made into the white of the
+eyeball (without any an&aelig;sthetic), then a thick, blunt probe is
+worked into the interior of the eye, directed so as to dislocate the
+lens. If successful, the lens drops back into the posterior chamber of
+the eye, and the patient &ldquo;sees,&rdquo; but alas, the vision
+obtained is, in ninety-eight cases out of a hundred, only temporary!
+Twenty-four hours later, inflammation of the eye supervenes, and the
+sight is gone, and the eye lost. Needless to say, the operator obtains
+his fee either before the operation is done, or during the few hours
+that his patient is rejoicing in his newly found vision; then if he is
+wise he disappears from the town, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb154" href="#pb154" name="pb154">154</a>]</span>resumes his practice
+elsewhere. However, during eight years&rsquo; practice in the East, and
+having had the opportunity of examining thousands of eyes, I can
+remember <i>two</i> cases only where this operation had been done and
+there had been no subsequent inflammation, but the great majority of
+eyes are lost.</p>
+<p>Well, we had our first Kerman cataract patient, and it seemed to us
+as though the whole future of the little pioneer Medical Mission
+depended upon the success or failure of that operation.</p>
+<p>The day fixed for the operation arrived: a Persian doctor practising
+in the city had requested leave to be present, no doubt on behalf of
+the many friends of the patient, to report particulars and see fair
+play. The patient was brought in, looking exceedingly nervous. After a
+short prayer (a practice almost invariably adopted in medical
+missionary hospitals, and much appreciated by the patient, even though
+he be a fanatical Moslem), the operation was started. I am afraid we
+were all unduly nervous, the possible consequences for good or ill to
+the Mission assuming undue proportions. At any rate everything went
+wrong; the cocaine (used as the an&aelig;sthetic) would not work, the
+old man <i>could</i> not keep his eye still, and <i>would</i> look up
+when he was told to look down. I was only able to complete the
+incision, and that with the greatest difficulty; and fearing to proceed
+further, the patient getting more and more excited, I had reluctantly
+to postpone the operation for a couple of days. We all felt very
+depressed, except, perhaps, the Persian &ldquo;hakim,&rdquo; who
+doubtless greatly relished the failure of the English doctor. However,
+two days later we tried again, the Persian hakim <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb155" href="#pb155" name="pb155">155</a>]</span>once
+more being amongst the spectators. Much prayer had been offered up that
+<i>this</i> time there might be no hitch. Everything at first went
+well; the patient lay quite quietly, moved his eye exactly as he was
+told, the cocaine proved satisfactory, the incision was remade, and
+other preliminary steps in the operation disposed of: then came the
+hitch. In the European method of operating for cataract, the opaque
+lens is extruded from the eye by gentle pressure, through the incision
+first made. Well, when the time came for the lens to be extruded, it
+would not budge! I tried all possible means of extraction without
+success (afterwards I discovered that adhesions had formed between the
+lens and the curtain of the eye, as a result of the first operation).
+The perspiration ran down my face, as I realised what this second
+failure meant, not so much for my own reputation, but the hindrance it
+would prove to the success of the work I loved. I glanced at my wife:
+she was looking very anxious. I looked at my assistants: their faces
+were pictures of dismay. They had seen me before in Isphahan do many a
+cataract, and could not imagine what had gone wrong. The Persian doctor
+looked particularly happy: he smiled as he politely expressed his
+sorrow that I was experiencing any difficulty in bringing the operation
+to a successful issue. It certainly was an awkward fix&mdash;perhaps
+the most awkward that I have ever been in; but as I lifted up my heart
+in silent prayer to God, asking for guidance, the thought flashed into
+my mind, &ldquo;The man has both eyes blind: you have failed with the
+one; do the other at once, and it <i>will</i> prove successful.&rdquo;
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb156" href="#pb156" name=
+"pb156">156</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Gently covering the eye that had proved a failure, I explained
+matters to the patient, obtained his permission, thoroughly cleansed
+his other eye, and proceeded to operate, meeting with no difficulty and
+easily extracting the lens, to the palpable disappointment of my
+Persian medical friend, and was overjoyed to find that the patient old
+man had obtained exceedingly good vision. After a week the patient went
+back to his friends, seeing well, and full of gratitude for all the
+kindness and care he had received. I saw him some months later, and
+inquired whether he cared to let me have another try at the eye that
+had proved unsuccessful; but he refused, saying he was an old man, and
+had obtained good sight with the one, and did not need to see with the
+other. Of course the result of this first operation had been anxiously
+awaited by many, and since it proved successful, we soon had our little
+temporary hospital full, and had no further trouble in getting
+in-patients. I have described this case rather fully, avoiding
+technical terms as far as possible, as it illustrates fairly well the
+difficulties and responsibilities met with and tackled by pioneer
+workers, be they missionary or official.</p>
+<p>The Persians (especially the Kermanis) have a great idea of doing
+&ldquo;savabs&rdquo; (good works), hoping to reap their reward
+hereafter. This is common to the West as well as the East; but the
+Kermanis in addition hold a convenient doctrine, namely, the
+appropriation of the savabs of infidels for themselves! At least one of
+the chief mullahs in Kerman surprised me somewhat by the cordial
+reception he accorded me; but later said, &ldquo;How glad he was that I
+had <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb157" href="#pb157" name=
+"pb157">157</a>]</span>come to Kerman and was doing such &lsquo;good
+works&rsquo; amongst the sick and poor, as hereafter God would credit
+the true Moslems with all the savabs done by infidels, who of course
+could derive no benefit at all from their performance.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>As Kerman is a city proverbial amongst the Persians for its great
+wickedness, I could understand the old mullah&rsquo;s satisfaction, as
+doubtless he felt that many of their savab accounts were rather low and
+needed a trifle of &ldquo;credit,&rdquo; which might with advantage be
+obtained from the savabs of an infidel doctor!</p>
+<p>Once yearly the Persians celebrate the death of the martyrs Hassain
+and Hussein, as has already been described in a previous chapter. We
+had a good opportunity of witnessing this Persian Passion Play while in
+Kerman. The sword-dancers, clad in white garments, work themselves up
+into a frenzy, gashing their heads with the swords and sometimes
+inflicting severe wounds. A true believer is supposed to have his
+self-inflicted wounds healed spontaneously through the agency of
+Hazrati Ali (grandson of the prophet Mohammed); but I was a little
+amused by the appearance of several of these devotees at my out-patient
+clinique some days previous to the &ldquo;celebration,&rdquo; all of
+them begging for a little English ointment to keep by them for use in
+case miraculous healing should be delayed.</p>
+<p>As has been already mentioned, the curse of Kerman is opium;
+everybody smokes or eats it&mdash;generally the former. The native
+doctors are partly responsible, as they recommend the drug as a
+&ldquo;cure-all&rdquo;; but even the cultured Kermani smokes opium,
+possibly to relieve the monotony of his life! <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb158" href="#pb158" name=
+"pb158">158</a>]</span>Cases of poisoning repeatedly occur, and some of
+these we were called upon to treat. Our dispensary had a small garden
+attached to it, and when the Mission had gained the confidence of the
+people it was no uncommon sight to see several opium patients being
+treated at the same time in this garden. The treatment used, though
+somewhat vigorous, proved very effective. A man would arrive at the
+dispensary, escorted by an excited throng of relatives. On inquiry we
+would find that he had taken a big dose of opium to end his life:
+afterwards repenting, he had confessed to his relatives, and they had
+at once brought him to the English doctor. The treatment began with the
+administration of a strong emetic followed by repeated doses of strong
+coffee; then he would be handed over to the care of an attendant, with
+instructions to walk him round and round the garden and prevent his
+going to sleep. The native assistants and the patient&rsquo;s friends,
+armed with sticks, carried out these instructions, and at the first
+signs of languor exhibited by the unfortunate man he would be beaten
+and kept effectually awake!</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2184width" id="p158-1"><img src=
+"images/p158-1.jpg" alt="Opium-Making" width="404" height="584">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Opium-Making</span></p>
+<p class="first">An enormous quantity of opium is grown and exported
+from Persia every year. The juice is extracted from the poppy head by
+scratching it with a small iron instrument, and as it oozes out it is
+gathered, and when dry rolled into cakes ready either for use in the
+country or for export.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e2191width" id="p158-2"><img src=
+"images/p158-2.jpg" alt="The Rich Beggar" width="403" height="585">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">The Rich Beggar</span></p>
+<p class="first">This old man is said to be very rich. By day be dons
+his rags and goes forth on his lucrative profession of begging; at
+sunset he returns to his home and, exchanging his rags for more
+respectable garments, spends his earnings in luxury and feasting.</p>
+</div>
+<p>One day I was summoned in haste to the house of an influential
+Kermani; his only son, a child of two years, had been poisoned with
+opium. It is a common practice in Kerman for mothers to keep their
+babies from crying by giving them a little opium to suck. This
+boy&rsquo;s mother had given him a big lump by mistake, and grew
+alarmed when she found that all her attempts to wake him were
+ineffectual! On arriving at the house with my assistant, we had
+considerable difficulty in making our way into the courtyard, as it was
+thronged with all the relatives <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb159"
+href="#pb159" name="pb159">159</a>]</span>and friends; the neighbouring
+houses were crowded, a great multitude thronging the flat roofs, which
+commanded a good view of the courtyard belonging to the patient&rsquo;s
+father. On examining my little patient I found him nearly dead,
+exhibiting all the symptoms of an overdose of opium. However, for over
+an hour we worked away, washing out the child&rsquo;s stomach,
+injecting strong coffee, &amp;c., all in the open air before the
+excited multitude, and gradually the little patient showed signs of
+recovery. When he had come completely round and was crying vigorously,
+there was great rejoicing. Thinking the opportunity too good a one to
+be lost, I asked my assistant to tell the father that God had heard
+prayer and restored him his child, and that we would now like him to
+join with us and thank God for answering our prayers, if he would tell
+the crowd what we intended doing. Although the father was a mullah, and
+had the reputation of being very fanatical in his hatred of Christians,
+he at once consented to our proposition, announcing to the crowd our
+intention. During the short thanksgiving prayer every head was bowed
+and not a sound of protest heard, while Christian and Moslem alike
+returned thanks to the great God who had heard and answered prayer.
+Medical Missions had once again won a triumph over Moslem fanaticism,
+and the scowls and threatening looks which had greeted our arrival were
+replaced by cordial thanks and vehement expressions of gratitude!</p>
+<p>Persian therapeutics are very simple, dating back to the time of
+Hippocrates. All diseases are divided into two classes&mdash;hot and
+cold&mdash;to be treated <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb160" href=
+"#pb160" name="pb160">160</a>]</span>accordingly with hot or cold
+remedies. All foods are similarly classified. With this knowledge, plus
+a few Persian medical books and an appropriate turban, the native quack
+sets up as a doctor. His impudence and native wit are inexhaustible; he
+will cheer his patients with extracts from Hafiz or Ferdosi (the great
+Persian poets), talk learnedly of vapours, and have a specific for
+every mortal ailment. The quack physician is amusing, and probably
+confines himself to fairly harmless compounds; but the Persian surgeon
+is a man to be avoided at all costs. Of course, I am only here speaking
+of quacks; in Teheran there is a good medical school, and many of the
+graduates from that school proceed to Paris or Berlin, and return fully
+qualified to exercise their profession; but they also have to compete
+with these native quacks.</p>
+<p>I remember one case of a poor man brought to the dispensary with a
+big swelling on the left knee, which prevented his straightening the
+leg. Careful examination convinced me that the case was one of
+malignant cancer of the thigh bone, and that nothing could be done but
+amputation. This was explained to the patient and his father, who
+indignantly rejected the proposed operation. I lost sight of the man,
+but some weeks later one of my assistants asked me if I remembered the
+case; on my replying in the affirmative, he informed me that the
+patient had since died. It seems after leaving the dispensary the
+father had taken his son (a young man twenty years old) to a native
+surgeon (who combined the exercise of his profession most appropriately
+with the trade of a butcher) and asked his advice, saying the English
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb161" href="#pb161" name=
+"pb161">161</a>]</span>doctor had advised amputation of the leg; but he
+had refused, as the swelling caused little pain, and all his son wanted
+was to be able to straighten his leg so that he might once again walk.
+&ldquo;Oh,&rdquo; replied the butcher, &ldquo;that&rsquo;s easily done;
+that English doctor knows nothing; I will cure him.&rdquo; So he got
+the father and other men to hold the unfortunate youth firmly and some
+other helper to seize the leg; then seizing a huge slab of stone in
+both his hands, he brought it down with all his force on the bent knee.
+The leg was straightened ... and needless to add, the poor patient only
+survived a few days.</p>
+<p>My wife has written quite sufficient about the Persian women to
+enable her readers to appreciate the monotony of their lives behind the
+veil. This is more especially true of the upper classes, who have no
+need to work for their living. In Kerman the usual result is that many
+of these poor women suffer from hysteria. I have often been called in
+to treat some of these patients, and have found them develop almost all
+the varying types of that curious disease; but one of the most
+interesting cases I ever remember occurred in Kerman.</p>
+<p>I had been treating the unmarried daughter of one of the wealthiest
+men in the city, and had prescribed for her some simple bismuth
+mixture, as she had complained of indigestion. Two days later her
+brother came galloping his horse to the dispensary, and demanded to see
+me immediately. He was greatly excited, and said that his sister had
+been taking the medicine I had prescribed for her and had suddenly gone
+blind. This was in the early days of the Medical Mission, and I was
+especially anxious to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb162" href=
+"#pb162" name="pb162">162</a>]</span>win the confidence of the people,
+so did not at all appreciate this complication. I assured the brother
+that I would return with him at once, and informed him that the
+medicine could not possibly have caused the blindness; but he was not
+at all appeased. Upon reaching the house I found all the family
+distracted with grief, and not at all inclined to be cordial. Moreover,
+they had called in a native eye-doctor, who had gravely announced that
+the blindness was most certainly due to the patient having taken the
+infidel&rsquo;s medicine! In order to reassure the parents I bade them
+bring the bottle of medicine, and, finding there were still two or
+three doses left, called for a glass, poured out the remainder, and
+drank it. This seemed to reassure them partially, so they allowed me to
+examine the girl. She was a nervous, highly-strung patient, and I had
+expected to find that she had been malingering; but to my surprise,
+upon thorough examination I convinced myself that she had really gone
+blind. Examination of the interior of the eyes showed no disease, and
+upon inquiry, finding that she was the subject of periodical hysterical
+attacks, I ventured to predict to the parents that with suitable care
+and supervision the girl would regain her sight. They were still
+inclined to be sceptical, but ten days later I heard that my prediction
+had come true and that she was quite cured. Similar cases of hysterical
+loss of vision are on record, but are exceedingly rare.</p>
+<p>Barely had we managed to get the little Medical Mission well started
+when circumstances connected with my wife&rsquo;s health arose that
+forced us to leave at a moment&rsquo;s notice the people we had learnt
+to love. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb163" href="#pb163" name=
+"pb163">163</a>]</span>Fortunately the work was not given up; another
+doctor succeeded me, and now there is a flourishing Medical Mission
+with two hospitals, one for men and the other for women patients, with
+a lady doctor and nurse; while the influence exerted by that Mission is
+felt throughout the whole of the great Kerman province, which stretches
+eastwards to the border of Beloochistan, and is bounded on the south by
+the Persian Gulf. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb164" href="#pb164"
+name="pb164">164</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2111" href="#xd20e2111src" name="xd20e2111">1</a></span> By Dr.
+A. Hume-Griffith.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch14" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter XIV</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Medical Mission Work in Yezd<a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2226src" href="#xd20e2226" name="xd20e2226src">1</a></h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">A hospital&mdash;A friendly governor&mdash;A
+suspicious case&mdash;Superstition&mdash;The opium habit&mdash;A case
+of cataract&mdash;We return to England.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;By medicine life may be prolonged....</p>
+<p class="line">With the help of a surgeon he may yet
+recover.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The last of our three years&rsquo; sojourn in Persia
+was spent in Yezd. Here there was already a small Mission Hospital, all
+the pioneer work having been done by Dr. White of the C.M.S. A wealthy
+Parsee merchant had presented the site for a hospital in the form of an
+old caravanserai (an Eastern inn). This had been gutted and made into a
+nice little hospital, with an out-patient department. Dr. White being
+on furlough, the doctor taking his place in Yezd exchanged with me, as
+it was hoped that my wife would be able better to stand the lower
+altitude of Yezd than the heights of Kerman. Yezd is an island city in
+a sea of sand. The waves, driven by the winds, surge against the city
+walls and threaten to engulf the whole place. At some parts of the
+wall, the drifted sand reaches almost to the level of the wall
+itself.</p>
+<p>The Governor of Yezd during the time we lived there was H.R.H.
+Jalal-el-Dowleh, the eldest son of the Prince-Governor of <span class=
+"corr" id="xd20e2244" title="Source: Ispahan">Isphahan</span> (the
+Zil-es-Sultan). <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb165" href="#pb165"
+name="pb165">165</a>]</span>The Jalal-el-Dowleh had the reputation,
+like his father, of being a strong man, and ruled with a firm hand. He
+had already proved a good friend to the Mission, and was accustomed to
+pay a state visit once yearly to the hospital, where, after being
+entertained at the doctor&rsquo;s house, he would proceed to make a
+very thorough tour of inspection, and before leaving would hand the
+English doctor a sealed envelope containing the munificent sum of
+&pound;40 as a donation. During our stay in Yezd we saw a good deal of
+the governor, and I had to add to my duties those of court
+physician.</p>
+<p>In Yezd, as in other Persian cities, there are many quacks, who not
+unnaturally resent the presence of a European doctor. I had not been
+long in the city before I made the acquaintance of some of these
+gentry, in a somewhat dramatic manner.</p>
+<p>Early one morning I was hurriedly called to the house of the chief
+native doctor, as his brother had been taken seriously ill.</p>
+<p>On entering the patient&rsquo;s room, I found it crowded with his
+friends, the patient himself lying upon a mattress placed on the
+ground. One glance at the patient sufficed: he was dead, and had
+apparently been so for some hours. When I announced the fact to the
+brother, he became very angry, and assured me that I was mistaken. He
+begged me to pour some medicine down the man&rsquo;s throat, or to do
+something to rouse him, as he had only fainted!</p>
+<p>Upon further inquiry, I found that he had been poorly for some days,
+and his brother had been treating him. My suspicions were aroused, as
+the brother and his friends crowded round me, imploring that
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb166" href="#pb166" name=
+"pb166">166</a>]</span>English medicines should be tried, and after
+further careful examination only served to confirm my first opinion, I
+refused absolutely to comply with their entreaties, and left the house
+with my assistant. The brother and some of his friends pursued us,
+offering large fees if only we would give some medicine, absolutely
+refusing to accept my verdict. It is a necessary custom in Persia and
+the East generally, to bury a dead body within a few hours of death,
+but we heard that the brother refused to allow this corpse to be buried
+for three whole days, alleging that the English doctor was mistaken:
+however, in the end they were obliged to bury him. The native doctor
+was strongly suspected of having poisoned his brother, and this
+doubtless accounted for the urgent manner in which he begged me to pour
+something down the dead man&rsquo;s throat, so that he could accuse me
+of being responsible for his death.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2259width" id="p166-1"><img src=
+"images/p166-1.jpg" alt="Types of Persian Jews" width="586" height=
+"402">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Types of Persian Jews</span></p>
+<p class="first">The Chief Rabbi at Yezd (sitting in the centre). This
+photo was taken in the author&rsquo;s garden at Yezd.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e2266width" id="p166-2"><img src=
+"images/p166-2.jpg" alt="The Water Square" width="587" height="404">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">The Water Square</span></p>
+<p class="first">The &ldquo;Maidawi ob,&rdquo; or water square, is a
+favourite gathering-place of the inhabitants. They love to linger round
+the edges of the water, drinking their coffee, striking bargains, and
+exchanging news. The water is none too clean, nor the odour too sweet
+which greets the senses as we ride by.</p>
+</div>
+<p>All Persians are superstitious, and are great believers in goblins
+and &lsquo;jinns.&rsquo; One day a young man was brought to me
+suffering from an acute attack of chorea (St. Vitus&rsquo; dance). He
+was well educated, and had been employed as a clerk in a
+merchant&rsquo;s office: now he was unable to hold a pen in his hand,
+and exhibited all the symptoms of the disease in a very marked degree.
+He was promptly admitted to hospital, and discharged cured in a few
+weeks. According to his own statement the cause of the attack was as
+follows. He had gone for a walk in the desert outside the city after
+his day&rsquo;s work was over, and had wandered on further than usual.
+Suddenly he came across an old well, and round the well were numbers of
+hideous dwarf-like goblins pelting <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb167"
+href="#pb167" name="pb167">167</a>]</span>each other with stones. When
+they saw him they crowded round laughing, jeering, pulling his clothes,
+and then began to pelt him with stones. He turned and fled, running the
+whole way back to the city, and to this shock he attributed the
+commencement of his symptoms.</p>
+<p>In my last chapter I referred to the prevalence of the opium habit
+in Kerman, but we found many addicted to it also in Yezd. So much was
+this the case, that I started admitting some of those who expressed a
+desire to give up the habit into the hospital, submitting them to a
+special treatment, with very good results. It was a curious sight to
+see these patients grouped together in the ward, smoking their
+carefully weighed out amount of opium, which was gradually reduced day
+by day, until they could go without altogether.</p>
+<p>The opium habit is in truth a curse, but upon one occasion I really
+believe it greatly helped to save a man&rsquo;s life. It happened in
+this way. A well-known merchant in Yezd was found in his house
+apparently sleeping. His women-folk, unable to rouse him, became
+alarmed, and sent for me. I found the patient unconscious, exhibiting
+every symptom of belladonna poisoning. An excited crowd, as usual,
+collected, watching us as we tried every possible means of saving the
+poor fellow&rsquo;s life. Strychnine and morphia had been injected,
+cold water poured on his face, all without avail: there was no sign of
+returning consciousness. A happy thought struck me. Turning to some of
+the men in the crowd, I asked whether they were opium-smokers. Three or
+four somewhat shamefacedly acknowledged that they did a little, so I
+ordered them to bring a pipe and a little of the <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb168" href="#pb168" name=
+"pb168">168</a>]</span>drug. Then I made them sit round the
+patient&rsquo;s body, take the pipe in turn, and as they smoked, puff
+out the smoke into the patient&rsquo;s face, occasionally blowing it
+into his nostrils, and down his throat. I confess that I had but little
+hope of any good result, but what was my delight and surprise, after
+about a quarter of an hour&rsquo;s perseverance in the treatment, to
+see unmistakable signs of recovery in the patient&rsquo;s face. His
+widely dilated pupils began to contract, and soon he returned to
+consciousness and was able to sit up. On the following day I found him
+quite well, and thoroughly enjoying the sensation that his marvellous
+recovery had made in the city. Hundreds of people had been to see him,
+and I am a little afraid that the value of the opium as a
+&ldquo;cure-all&rdquo; was not diminished by the incident!</p>
+<p>We had quite a number of cataract patients in the hospital, many
+coming several days&rsquo; journey for operation. A small hospital for
+women had been started, and a lady doctor had been sent to take charge.
+The first case admitted was an old lady with cataract. When the day
+arrived for the operation, everything went well at first, but in the
+middle of the operation the patient started up screaming. She said she
+had seen a snake, and she thought it was going to bite her. Her vision
+cost her dearly, the operation necessarily being spoilt, and the eye
+lost, but unfortunately it also kept away other patients suffering from
+the same disease, but only for a short time, the lady doctor soon
+winning their confidence, and finding more work on her hands than she
+could comfortably get through.</p>
+<p>After a very happy year in Yezd, my wife&rsquo;s health <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb169" href="#pb169" name=
+"pb169">169</a>]</span>still remaining unsatisfactory, we were obliged
+to leave Persia, and return to England for a short rest. Both of us
+were grieved at having to leave a country and people that we had learnt
+to love, and amongst whom we had hoped to spend our lives.</p>
+<p>Medical Missions in Persia have already worked wonders, breaking
+down opposition, winning friends even amongst the most fanatical. Here
+is not the place to speak of results, neither would it be wise to do
+so, but I would like once for all definitely and decisively to
+repudiate the oft-quoted statement, often made, unfortunately, by
+Christians who should be better informed, &ldquo;that it is impossible
+for a Mohammedan to become a Christian.&rdquo; With God <i>all</i>
+things are possible! <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb171" href="#pb171"
+name="pb171">171</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2226" href="#xd20e2226src" name="xd20e2226">1</a></span> By Dr.
+A. Hume-Griffith.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div0 part">
+<h2 class="main">Part II</h2>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb173" href="#pb173" name=
+"pb173">173</a>]</span>
+<div id="ch2.1" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter I</h2>
+<h2 class="main">The City of Nineveh</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">The city of Nineveh&mdash;The fast of Jonah&mdash;The
+bridge of boats&mdash;Traditions as to ancient history of
+Mosul&mdash;Alkosh, birthplace of Nahum the
+prophet&mdash;Shurg&acirc;t&mdash;Climate of Mosul&mdash;Cultivation
+and industries&mdash;Importance of Mosul.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;A ruin, yet what ruin! from its mass</p>
+<p class="line">Walls, palaces, half cities have been reared.</p>
+<p class="line">Heroes have trod this spot&mdash;&rsquo;tis on their
+dust ye tread.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Byron.</span></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Nineveh, an exceeding great city of three days&rsquo;
+journey.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The ancient city of Nineveh, the former capital of the
+Assyrian Empire, is situated on the eastern bank of the river Tigris.
+Little is to be seen to-day of the once famous city but huge mounds of
+earth which cover the site of this historical and interesting place.
+There are two principal mounds, separated from each other by a small
+rivulet. The larger of these is called Kouyunjik, the smaller Nabbi
+Eunice. The former contains the ruins of the palace of Sennacherib,
+before whom Jonah stood and delivered his message; but nothing now
+remains to tell of its former glory and wealth. When we first visited
+the spot over three years ago, there was one huge man-headed lion
+remaining, and a few pieces of sculpture representing fish swimming in
+water, &amp;c. But now even these have disappeared, for about eighteen
+months ago the Turkish Government <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb174"
+href="#pb174" name="pb174">174</a>]</span>sold <i>all</i> the visible
+remains of Nineveh for the enormous sum of two Turkish liras (36s.)!
+the buyer grinding everything to powder, including the huge statue, for
+purposes of building!</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2329width" id="p174"><img src="images/p174.jpg"
+alt="Our Home in Nineveh" width="720" height="483">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Our Home in Nineveh</span></p>
+<p class="first">The houses of Mosul generally consist of two
+compounds. The inner one is used as the &ldquo;hareem&rdquo; or
+women&rsquo;s quarters, while the outer one is the men&rsquo;s
+reception rooms, stables, etc. The above picture shows the
+&ldquo;hareem.&rdquo; The pillars are made of marble, which abounds in
+the neighbourhood of Mosul.</p>
+</div>
+<p>Nineveh is best seen to-day at the British Museum or the Louvre,
+Paris, as both of these places contain many interesting and valuable
+remains of that city. Nineveh was closed to excavators about four years
+ago, but it is hoped that investigations will be renewed again in the
+near future, as there still remain thirteen rooms of the palace to be
+examined.</p>
+<p>The other and smaller mound, known as Nabbi Eunice (Prophet Jonah),
+was once the site of a church named after the prophet, on account of
+the tradition that he preached upon that spot. The church stands to
+this day, but is used as a mosque, as it now belongs to the Moslems,
+who venerate the place as being the tomb of the prophet.</p>
+<p>They accept the whole story of Jonah&rsquo;s mission to Nineveh and
+the adventures he encountered <i>en route</i>, as we have it recorded
+in Holy Scripture. It is an interesting fact, too, that year by year
+the inhabitants of Mosul, Christians and Moslems alike, keep in
+remembrance the three days of fasting and repentance mentioned in the
+Book of Jonah. The fast is still kept for three days, by some very
+strictly, while others keep it from sunset to sunset, only eating once
+a day. Every one may please herself as to the severity of her fasting,
+but almost all join in the remembrance of those three memorable days in
+the history of Nineveh. &ldquo;Herself&rdquo; is used advisedly, as it
+is especially kept by women who are seeking some particular gift from
+God, and they will often fast <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb175"
+href="#pb175" name="pb175">175</a>]</span>absolutely for the three
+days, not even allowing a drop of water to touch their lips. They hope
+by so doing that God will hear their prayers, even as He answered the
+petitions of the Ninevites of old. The memory of Jonah is perpetuated,
+too, in Mosul by parents naming their boys after the prophet, Eunice
+being quite a favourite name amongst Christians, Moslems, and Jews.</p>
+<p>The tomb of Jonah is guarded very zealously by the Mohammedans
+against the Christians, and it is very difficult for the latter to gain
+admission to the interior of the building. A friend staying with us in
+Mosul was very anxious to see the tomb, so we rode over to Nabbi Eunice
+one day, but the mullah in charge politely but firmly refused us
+permission to enter beyond the portal!</p>
+<p>Kouyunjik is now a favourite place for picnics from Mosul, and in
+the early spring a day spent amongst the old ruins of Nineveh is very
+delightful. It is too hot in summer, as there is no shade. From the top
+of the mounds we have a beautiful view of Mosul, with the Tigris in the
+foreground and the mountains stretching away on either side. It is not
+considered safe for any one to wander about alone on the mounds; the
+natives will never go there alone after dusk. Some years ago two
+Europeans who were passing through Mosul visited Nineveh by themselves.
+As they were rambling over the old remains, one said to his companion,
+&ldquo;I am going round there,&rdquo; indicating a projecting piece of
+marble. His companion waited and waited, and as his friend did not
+return went in search of him, but not a sign of him could be seen.
+After <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb176" href="#pb176" name=
+"pb176">176</a>]</span>seeking in every possible place without success,
+he returned to Mosul to institute a search party, but all efforts
+proved fruitless, and to this day nothing has been discovered as to the
+fate of this man. Whether he fell down some disused shaft or was
+carried off by Arabs is not known, and probably will always remain a
+mystery.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2353width" id="p176"><img src="images/p176.jpg"
+alt="A Bridge of Boats" width="720" height="483">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Bridge of Boats</span></p>
+<p class="first">This bridge over the Tigris connects Nineveh with
+Mosul. When the rush of water is very great the bridge swings open, and
+is sometimes only closed with great difficulty. In the right-hand
+corner of the background may be seen the village of &ldquo;Nabbi
+Eunice,&rdquo; where the prophet Jonah is said to be buried.</p>
+</div>
+<p>Mosul is connected with Nineveh by an old bridge of boats, which
+probably existed in the days of Jonah. There are twenty-one or
+twenty-two of these old-fashioned flat-bottomed boats, fastened
+together by heavy chains, a platform of wood being laid from boat to
+boat and the whole covered with earth. This part of the bridge is
+movable, and is connected at one end with the mainland by a permanent
+stone bridge consisting of thirty-three arches. In the spring, when the
+rush of water is very strong consequent upon the snow melting in the
+mountains, it is loosened at one end and allowed to swing with the
+current. Sometimes, however, the river rises suddenly, carrying the
+bridge away and playing havoc with the banks. When this takes place it
+is very difficult to replace the bridge. Often for weeks together the
+bridge is not open, and all traffic across the river has to be conveyed
+by boats, the owner of the ferries reaping a golden harvest. The toll
+of the bridge is taken by a man who rents it from the Government. He is
+said to be one of the richest men in Mosul. Foot passengers are allowed
+to pass freely, but all four-footed beasts have a small charge levied
+on them ranging from a halfpenny to twopence, and carriages are charged
+half a mejideh (1s. 8d.). As some thousands of camels, mules,
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb177" href="#pb177" name=
+"pb177">177</a>]</span>and donkeys are continually passing to and fro,
+it is no wonder that the toll-collector is a rich man.</p>
+<p>I am not at all fond of riding across this bridge; it is not very
+wide, and camels jostle you on one side with their huge burdens,
+donkeys and mules vie with each other in trying to pass on the other,
+quite oblivious of the fact that there is no room; while underneath the
+river rushes madly on. Altogether, I always heave a sigh of relief when
+the opposite bank is safely reached.</p>
+<p>There are many traditions as to the probable origin of Mosul, but
+its true early history is involved in obscurity. The following has been
+gleaned from some of the many traditions circulated amongst its
+inhabitants.</p>
+<p>Mosul is said to have been built some four thousand years ago, and
+was then a small village consisting of a few houses built of mud. This
+village was believed to be the fourth village built after the Flood.
+About four days&rsquo; journey from Mosul there is a mountain called
+Judy, on which the ark is supposed to have rested after the Flood. The
+natives living near this mountain say it <i>must</i> be Mount Ararat,
+because close by grows the only olive tree for miles around! and also
+they have in their possession enormous wooden nails <i>said</i> to have
+been used in the construction of the ark! These nails were found on the
+mountain many years ago. At the foot of this mountain lies a village
+which claims to have the honour of being the <i>first</i> built after
+the Flood. Quite near by is another small town called Jezirah, which is
+said to have been the second village to spring into existence, while
+some village in Egypt takes the third place, and Mosul the <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb178" href="#pb178" name=
+"pb178">178</a>]</span>fourth! If these traditions are to be trusted,
+then Mosul has indeed a right to be termed ancient.</p>
+<p>Some 1260 years ago Omar el Khattab the Calipha conquered Jerusalem
+and Damascus, and then turned his attention to Mosul. He sent down one
+of his chiefs named Eyath, son of Ghoonum, to besiege Mosul, with
+orders to convert the city to Mohammedanism at all costs, if necessary
+at the point of the sword. Many of the inhabitants at that time were
+Parsees, belonging to the old fire-worshipping religion; others were
+called &ldquo;Charamika,&rdquo; but no trace of their belief has been
+found. These and many others were converted to Mohammedanism by the
+strong argument of the sword.</p>
+<p>In the twelfth century Mosul had a sovereignty of its own, a brother
+of the Sultan of Damascus then reigning over this province. In 1180 it
+withstood the armies of the famous Saladin, who was a native of a town
+some five days&rsquo; ride from Mosul. In the thirteenth and fourteenth
+centuries it suffered defeat from the hands of its enemies, and in 1743
+Nadir Shah of Persia bombarded the town for forty days. Since then
+Mosul has suffered much from time to time through various
+causes&mdash;from the cruelties of some of its governors, from a famine
+caused by the crops being utterly destroyed by locusts, and also from
+the plague which visited it in 1831 and left the town almost a desert.
+It is stated that 100,000 people perished at that time from this
+terrible scourge.</p>
+<p>The walls surrounding Mosul are very old. They were built, in the
+first instance, about 2000 years ago by a man named Marvan, one of the
+kings of a tribe called &ldquo;Umayya.&rdquo; They were repaired 170
+years ago <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb179" href="#pb179" name=
+"pb179">179</a>]</span>by Hadji Hussein Pasha, one of the Abdul Jaleel
+family. They are now in many places fast falling into ruin, and are in
+great need of restoration. These walls are pierced by about twelve
+gates, which are shut at sunset or soon after.</p>
+<p>About five hours&rsquo; journey from Mosul is the little village of
+Elkosh, believed by many to have been the birthplace of the prophet
+Nahum, and also the scene of his life-work and burial. This village,
+now inhabited by Chaldeans, is reverenced by Moslems and Christians
+alike, but more especially is it looked upon as a holy place by the
+Jews. There is a synagogue in which is supposed to lie the tomb of the
+prophet; to this the Jews flock for the yearly pilgrimage, having done
+so from time immemorial.</p>
+<p>Kalah Shurg&acirc;t is another interesting place, situated two
+days&rsquo; journey from Mosul. It consists of an old Assyrian ruin,
+said to be the remains of the ancient city of Asshur. The Germans have
+been excavating there for some years, and are doing it very thoroughly.
+The whole ground floor of the palace and temple are laid bare, and are
+in a wonderful state of preservation. One of the excavators pointed out
+to us the &ldquo;bathroom&rdquo; of the palace, running through which
+was a mono-rail, evidently having been constructed for the purpose of
+conveying water from the reservoir to the bath. This tram-line must
+have been one of the first ever invented! It was simply a groove cut in
+the marble floor, on which probably a one-wheeled trolley ran.</p>
+<p>The climate of Mosul is a very variable one, the summers being
+excessively hot and the winters cold.</p>
+<p>During the hot months all the inhabitants sleep at <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb180" href="#pb180" name=
+"pb180">180</a>]</span>night on their roofs, starting about the 1st of
+June, and continuing to do so for five months, or till the first rains
+come. Many of the houses are provided with &ldquo;sird&acirc;bs&rdquo;
+or underground rooms, for use during the middle part of the day. The
+marble from which most of the houses are built retains the heat of the
+sun so long that they do not cool down in the evenings; on account of
+this, as the summer wears on, the houses become almost unbearable with
+accumulated heat. For this reason we generally try to go away somewhere
+for a month&rsquo;s holiday in August or September. There are no cool
+places near Mosul, and to find a suitable summer retreat it is
+necessary to go three or four days&rsquo; journey. For two years we
+only went to a large house about three miles from Mosul, kindly lent us
+by a patient of my husband&rsquo;s. Here the heat was intense during
+the day, but the evenings were delightfully cool as a rule, for the
+river ran at the foot of the garden.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2400width" id="p180"><img src="images/p180.jpg"
+alt="The Bridge of Boats over the frozen Tigris" width="720" height=
+"484">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">The Bridge of Boats over the
+frozen Tigris</span></p>
+<p class="first">Such an occurrence is very unusual. It is 150 years
+since the river was frozen over before.</p>
+</div>
+<p>The winters in Mosul are often very cold. Two years ago the Tigris
+was nearly frozen over, and for three days the only water we could
+obtain was from melted snow. The cold was so severe that men died as
+they sat at their work. While such cold weather lasted it was
+impossible to keep the patients in the hospital, as having no stoves in
+the wards we were not able to warm them sufficiently. But this was a
+record winter, there having been no such frost for one hundred and
+fifty years.</p>
+<p>Spring and autumn are beautiful seasons in Mosul, especially,
+perhaps, the former. During March, April, and part of May the land for
+many miles around Mosul is green with waving corn&mdash;a refreshing
+sight <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb181" href="#pb181" name=
+"pb181">181</a>]</span>for weary eyes. When the grass is about a foot
+in height, all the inhabitants pitch tents outside the town and spend
+their days there. Those who have horses tether them in front of their
+tents, and allow them to eat grass to their hearts&rsquo; content. A
+friend lent us a tent last year, and for a month or six weeks we
+enjoyed the luxury of green scenery! Every day some of our congregation
+were able to get out, each of us taking our turn at providing afternoon
+tea. It was such a relief to get away from the heat of the city walls,
+and to enjoy, if only for a short time, the lovely fresh air of the
+corn-fields!</p>
+<p>The autumn days are very pleasant too, but as a rule this season is
+only too short. The summers last till the rains begin, and then almost
+at once cold weather sets in. The most trying part of the whole year
+comes towards the end of summer, when the clouds &ldquo;come up.&rdquo;
+It is very marvellous the way the natives can tell, almost to a day,
+when to expect the first clouds. They generally last from ten to twelve
+days, and the relief is great when they depart. On the whole the
+climate of Mosul seems to be a healthy one. At certain times of the
+year malarial fever is very prevalent, but,
+&ldquo;alhamd&rsquo;llillah!&rdquo; neither of us have ever contracted
+it.</p>
+<p>The highest degree of heat registered in the coolest part of our
+house is 110&deg;, but the average heat of the three hottest months is
+about 98&deg; to 105&deg;.</p>
+<p>Three to four months of this kind of heat is generally quite
+enough!</p>
+<p>The land round Mosul is cultivated to a great extent, corn being the
+chief product. The success of the crops, however, is entirely dependent
+upon the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb182" href="#pb182" name=
+"pb182">182</a>]</span>winter and spring rains. Should the rainfall be
+great, the harvest is abundant; but if the season is a dry one, then
+the result is disastrous. Mr. Layard speaks of one such occasion when,
+during the whole of the winter and spring, no rain fell. As a
+consequence of this, the crop failed and famine ravaged the land. This
+famine is still spoken of in Mosul as something never to be forgotten,
+and many events are marked as dating from &ldquo;the famine.&rdquo;
+Some are not ashamed to own that they made their fortunes during that
+awful time, by storing corn and then selling it at famine prices; while
+others, who had been prosperous merchants till that year, were then
+rendered penniless, and have never been able to retrieve their
+fortunes. There are a few rude wheels constructed along the banks of
+the Tigris for the purpose of irrigation; but as these are highly taxed
+by the local government, they are by no means general. This mode of
+raising water is very simple but expensive, as it requires the labour
+of several men and at least two animals, either oxen or mules.</p>
+<p>Gardens near the town are irrigated in this way, either by drawing
+water from the river or from deep wells, but the great stretch of land
+sown with corn is dependent for its nourishment on the rainfall.</p>
+<p>Cotton is also grown and exported. Melons, cucumbers, and tomatoes
+are cultivated very largely, and as the river recedes in the summer,
+the moist bed is sown with water-melon seeds, which flourish splendidly
+in the damp soil.</p>
+<p>Fruit is largely grown in the mountains, and brought down on
+donkeys. Apricots are very abundant; cherries, plums, peaches are less
+plentiful. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb183" href="#pb183" name=
+"pb183">183</a>]</span>The best apples are brought from Damascus; they
+<i>look</i> good, but are flavourless. Grapes are very largely
+cultivated, and are brought to great perfection. The large black kind
+are very delicious; there is also a white grape which has a very sweet
+flavour. Vegetables of all kinds are grown in the gardens near Mosul:
+beans, peas, spinach, carrots (red), beetroot, onions, artichokes, as
+well as many other varieties. Potatoes are brought from Persia, and
+sometimes suffer so much from the long journey that they are only fit
+to be thrown away when they reach Mosul. Last winter several hundreds
+of sacks of potatoes were thrown into the river at Mosul, as they had
+been frostbitten on the journey from Persia, and so were useless.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Manna&rdquo; is found in the mountains, and is collected and
+sent to Mosul, where it is made into a sweetmeat called
+&ldquo;halawwi.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The industries of Mosul are chiefly spinning and weaving. A very
+strong kind of cotton cloth is woven, also calico and woollen goods.
+Many years ago this industry was much larger than it is at present, and
+in those days Mosul gave its name to muslin, a fabric exported by the
+French from that town in the last century. Weaving is done by men,
+while the women do the spinning and dyeing of the cotton or wool.
+Weaving is a very favourite occupation, as the weaver can do just as
+much or as little as he likes, being paid accordingly. For this reason
+a man who is inclined to be lazy would much rather be a weaver than a
+servant.</p>
+<p>Furs are largely exported from Mosul. The skin of the fox is most
+common, but there is another fur <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb184"
+href="#pb184" name="pb184">184</a>]</span>much resembling the sable
+which is highly prized amongst the natives, a coat lined with this fur
+costing something like &pound;50. Some years ago furs could be bought
+quite cheaply in Mosul, but the merchants finding a good market for
+their goods in Europe, the prices soon went up, and now even fox is
+becoming expensive.</p>
+<p>The industries of Mosul are not what they were, but we trust better
+days are coming, when the old prosperity of the town will be renewed
+and increased.</p>
+<p>The three great questions now under consideration with regard to the
+land of Mesopotamia will have great influence on the future of Mosul.
+The first is the navigation of the Tigris from Baghdad to Mosul. This,
+when an accomplished fact, will make a great difference in the export
+and import trade of the city. The Baghdad railway will also greatly
+increase the importance of Mosul, for the line running through it will
+bring the East in close touch with the near West. Perhaps the most
+important subject of all in connection with the future of Mosul is that
+of the irrigation of Mesopotamia, which, once accomplished, will turn
+the whole of that vast desert into a garden. The means to be employed
+for this end are simply the reviving of the old Assyrian method of
+irrigation. This method consisted in the digging of canals to intersect
+the land between the rivers Tigris and Euphrates. Maps of these same
+canals are still to be seen in the British Museum and other places, and
+are of great interest. These great canals, made in the prosperous days
+of the Assyrian Empire, are now <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb185"
+href="#pb185" name="pb185">185</a>]</span>choked up, after having been
+in use for many centuries by the inhabitants of the country. Layard, in
+his &ldquo;Discoveries at Nineveh,&rdquo; says, &ldquo;Herodotus
+describes the extreme fertility of Assyria and its abundant harvests of
+corn, the seed producing two and three hundred-fold&rdquo;; and adds
+later, &ldquo;But in his day the Assyrians depended as much upon
+artificial irrigation as upon the winter rains. They were skilful in
+constructing machines for raising water, and their system of canals was
+as remarkable for its ingenuity as for the knowledge of hydraulics it
+displayed.&rdquo; Since the result of irrigation in those ancient days
+was two to three hundred-fold, surely if carried out to-day with the
+additional knowledge of modern science and experience the ground would
+yield an even larger return. It has been estimated that
+&pound;8,000,000 would be sufficient to reopen all the old canals of
+Mesopotamia, with the certainty that the land thus irrigated would
+yield an abundant profit.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Ensha&rsquo;allah,&rdquo; this much-talked-of scheme will
+soon be carried out, and Mesopotamia become once more &ldquo;a land of
+corn and wine, a land of bread and vineyards, a land of olive oil and
+of honey.&rdquo; <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb186" href="#pb186"
+name="pb186">186</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2.2" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter II</h2>
+<h2 class="main">The People of Mosul</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">
+Population&mdash;Moslems&mdash;Christians&mdash;Chaldeans&mdash;Nestorians&mdash;Jacobites&mdash;Arabs&mdash;Kurds&mdash;Jews&mdash;Yezidees&mdash;
+Recreations&mdash;Warfare of the slingers&mdash;Hammam Ali&mdash;The
+recreation ground of Mosul men and women.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line xd20e2463">&rdquo;... The world is great,</p>
+<p class="line">But each has but his own land in the world.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">A. C. Swinburne.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The population of Mosul has been estimated to be
+anything between sixty and eighty thousand people. If the whole
+&ldquo;vilayet&rdquo; is included the number will be something like a
+million and a half. These people are made up of many different
+nationalities and tribes, each retaining its own leading
+characteristics, whilst many have a language peculiar to
+themselves.</p>
+<p>The inhabitants of Mosul are chiefly Arabs, of whom by far the
+larger part are Mohammedans. These of course form the strong religious
+element in the city, as they are the conquerors of the land. This is a
+fact, too, which they take care never to lose sight of. In the market,
+the mosque, and the street, the Mohammedan is always proclaiming by
+look, word, and deed that <i>he</i> is the master. A Christian finds
+himself at a great disadvantage in the market, for when buying from a
+Moslem he is not allowed to handle the food, and must purchase his
+goods to a great extent on trust. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb187"
+href="#pb187" name="pb187">187</a>]</span></p>
+<p>In all mosques, which once were Christian churches, it is customary
+for the mullah to preach with a naked sword in his hand. This is done
+in order to remind the people that the Mohammedan religion was
+propagated by the sword, and must, if necessary, be retained by the
+same means. In the streets the difference is very marked between the
+two, the Mohammedan behaving as if the whole place belonged to him,
+while the Christians, and more especially the Jews, always appear as if
+they were apologising for their very existence.</p>
+<p>The Moslems are the rulers, and they make their power felt. An
+amusing instance illustrating this feeling occurred a short time ago. A
+little Moslem boy was walking through the street on his way to our
+house when, apparently without any provocation, a Christian girl began
+to revile him as he passed. The boy instantly turned on the girl and
+gave her a thrashing. I did not hear anything of this for some days,
+and then only in an indirect way. Some one told me that the boy had
+received a severe beating from the master of the school which he was
+attending, and on asking the reason of the punishment was told the
+foregoing story. I am very fond of the boy, he is such a dear, bright
+little chap, with great wondering eyes. Upon hearing the history of his
+encounter with the girl, I sent for the boy, and tried to tell him how
+wrong it was for a man to strike a woman. &ldquo;But,&rdquo; said the
+boy, quite innocently, &ldquo;she was a Christian!&rdquo; Thus early in
+life is instilled into the young mind of the Moslem his inherent right
+to act the tyrant.</p>
+<p>On the other hand, it is a strange truth that <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb188" href="#pb188" name=
+"pb188">188</a>]</span>Moslems very often prefer to have Christian
+servants in their houses, as they find they are more faithful. In many
+hareems the &ldquo;slaves,&rdquo; or girls who have been bought for
+life, are very often children of Christian parents, who have been
+willing for a few pounds to sell their girls. The reverse of this is
+also true, that Christian families often find that a Moslem servant is
+more trustworthy than one of their own religion. A few months ago I
+heard of a little black boy in Mosul, whose mother, a Moslem negress,
+was anxious to find him a home. We offered to take the boy and bring
+him up, but the mother absolutely refused our offer, as we were
+Christians, and she was afraid her boy might become the same, as he was
+then only one year old, and had not yet learnt to hate the
+Christians!</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2486width" id="p188"><img src="images/p188.jpg"
+alt="A Picnic Party" width="720" height="478">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A <span class="corr" id=
+"xd20e2490" title="Source: Pic-nic">Picnic</span> Party</span></p>
+<p class="first">The women of Mosul thoroughly enjoy a day spent in the
+country. On the day on which this photo was taken about forty Christian
+women had come to spend the day with us in a lovely garden, kindly lent
+to us for the occasion. Lunch was served in the verandah of the house,
+and afterwards games were played till tea-time.</p>
+</div>
+<p>There are some 15,000 to 20,000 Christians in Mosul, who are said to
+date their conversion back to the time of St. Adday, who was a disciple
+of St. Thomas; others migrated from Baghdad to Mosul at the time of the
+Caliphas. These Christians have remained firm to the religion of their
+forefathers in spite of much persecution and many trials. To-day in
+Mosul there are many different sects of Christians to be found, viz.
+the Chaldean, Syrian, Nestorian, Jacobite, Armenian, and Greek. The
+Chaldeans in Mosul now entirely belong to the Romish Church, having
+been admitted to that body about a hundred years ago by means of the
+Dominican Mission who started work amongst these ancient Christians.
+They have their own bishop and archbishop, the Patriarch making Mosul
+his headquarters since 1256. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb189" href=
+"#pb189" name="pb189">189</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The Nestorians are the true Chaldeans, and repudiate the name
+Nestorian. They live amongst the mountains, have resisted all efforts
+of the Romish Church, and remain true to the faith of their fathers.
+They, in common with the other Christians, date their Christianity from
+the time of the Apostles as the converts of St. Thomas. They refuse to
+accept Nestorius, the Patriarch of Constantinople, as their founder,
+saying that he was a Greek, while they were Syrians. They assert that
+&ldquo;he did not even know our language, and so how could he have
+propagated his doctrines among us?&rdquo; and they also declare that
+their religion was an established fact long before Nestorius was born.
+They have their own Patriarch, who resides near Van, a distance of ten
+days from Mosul. They regard the Pope and his followers with feelings
+of great hatred, and are said to curse him and his forefathers
+regularly every day. In answer to a message from the Pope urging
+reconciliation with Rome, the Patriarch sent the following answer:
+&ldquo;I shall never become a Roman Catholic, and should you ever
+induce my people to do so, I would sooner become a dervish or a mullah
+than degrade myself by an alliance with the Pope.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The Patriarch of the Nestorians is not allowed to marry; he is also
+compelled to be a strict vegetarian. When it is thought advisable to
+nominate a successor to the archbishopric, the wife of a near relative
+(if possible, a brother) of the then Patriarch is chosen as the
+possible mother of the future dignitary. She is set apart as holy till
+the birth of her child, her diet meanwhile being strictly <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb190" href="#pb190" name=
+"pb190">190</a>]</span>vegetarian. If the child proves to be a boy, he
+is solemnly dedicated to God from his birth, and is never allowed to
+touch meat or flesh of any kind. Should the child unfortunately be a
+girl, the choice has to be made again, and great is the disappointment
+of the mother, the honour of being the mother of a Patriarch being much
+coveted and prized.</p>
+<p>In 1843 these people suffered a terrible massacre at the hands of
+the Kurds; 10,000 of them are said to have perished, and after being
+hunted from place to place the Patriarch finally fled for refuge to the
+English Consulate at Mosul.</p>
+<p>The Jacobite section of the Christian Church in Mosul is a small
+one, and so far remains firm to its old faith, resisting all attempts
+by the Church of Rome to effect a union. It, too, has its own bishop in
+Mosul, but the Patriarch resides in Mardin, where he has many thousands
+of adherents. He pays periodical visits to his scattered flock in Mosul
+and the surrounding country. They trace the origin of their name to one
+Jacob Barad&aelig;us, a Reformer who arose in the sixth century, and
+refusing to follow the lead of the other Syrians in joining the Romish
+Church, continued in the old faith, which has since been called by his
+name (an alternative name being the Old Syrian Church).</p>
+<p>The population of Mosul also consists of Arabs, Kurds, Yezidees, and
+Jews.</p>
+<p>The Arabs are the original inhabitants of the desert, who date their
+descent back to the time of Shem, the son of Noah. They are divided
+into many tribes, of which the most important in Mesopotamia
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb191" href="#pb191" name=
+"pb191">191</a>]</span>is that of the great Shammar clan, who are to be
+found in all parts. There are three classes of Arabs, namely, those who
+have settled down in one place and become town Arabs, such as the
+inhabitants of Mosul: the wandering tribes of the desert or Bedouins,
+who live in tents and whose occupation is sheep farming: a third class
+of Arabs are the robbers of the desert, who subsist solely by plunder,
+and roam the desert seeking for a livelihood by any means that may come
+to their hand. The wandering tribes find it very hard to settle down to
+a fixed abode after the free life of the desert, and they prefer often
+to suffer pain and inconvenience rather than spend a few days or weeks
+beneath a roof and within the walls of a hospital.</p>
+<p>A story is told of a Bedouin lady of the seventh century, whose
+husband rose afterwards to be one of the Caliphs. When taken to
+Damascus to live in luxury and state, she pined for the freedom of the
+desert, and gave utterance to her loneliness in the following
+verses:&mdash;</p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<div class="lg">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;A tent with rustling breezes cool</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1099">Delights me more than palace high,</p>
+<p class="line">And more the cloak of simple wool</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1099">Than robes in which I learned to sigh.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="lg">
+<p class="line">The crust I ate beside my tent</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1099">Was more than this fine bread to me;</p>
+<p class="line">The wind&rsquo;s voice where the hill-path went</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1099">Was more than tambourine can
+be.&rdquo;<a class="noteref" id="xd20e2537src" href="#xd20e2537" name=
+"xd20e2537src">1</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<p class="first">Arab women have come to the hospital from time to
+time, but they always long to return to their <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb192" href="#pb192" name=
+"pb192">192</a>]</span>desert life, and are impatient at the restraints
+of town life.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2543width" id="p192"><img src="images/p192.jpg"
+alt="Mutr&acirc;v Paulus" width="483" height="720">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Mutr&acirc;v Paulus</span></p>
+<p class="first">Bishop of the Syrian Roman Catholic Church in
+Mosul.</p>
+</div>
+<p>The Kurds are a warlike people inhabiting the mountains round Mosul.
+They are the descendants of the wild people of the mountains mentioned
+by Xenophon as the Karduchi, who so severely harassed the Greeks during
+their retreat. In later years they were known as the Parthians, who
+opposed the Romans. From this people came the celebrated Saladin, the
+opponent of Richard C&oelig;ur de Lion in the crusading days. The Kurds
+have been compared to the old Scottish Highlanders, who were noted for
+their devotion to their chiefs. A well-known writer, in speaking of
+this trait in the character of these people, says that once he heard
+the following story: &ldquo;A chieftain having died, one of his
+followers, who was standing on the roof of his house when the news of
+his master&rsquo;s death was brought to him, exclaimed, &lsquo;What! is
+the Beg dead? Then I will not live another moment,&rsquo; and
+immediately threw himself from the roof and was dashed to
+pieces.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>A few of these Kurds are Nestorians, but the majority of them are
+Moslems, and are a very fierce-looking set of people. They carry as a
+rule large daggers in the waistband, and are quite capable of using
+them when necessary. We once had a servant who was a Kurd, and although
+as a rule a peaceable man, he often longed to be off when he heard of
+any fighting going on in his country. He used to boast to the other
+servants of the many people he had robbed and murdered! but said of
+course he would never harm us, as we <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb193" href="#pb193" name="pb193">193</a>]</span>were in the place of
+father and mother to him. We are quite hoping to secure his services
+again on our return to Mosul.</p>
+<p>There are about two thousand Jews in Mosul, who date their descent
+from the time of the Captivity. When Cyrus issued his decree allowing
+all Jews to return to their native land, about fifty thousand of those
+living in Mesopotamia joyfully availed themselves of this permission,
+but a few preferred to remain in their adopted land, and their
+descendants are there to this day. In spite of much persecution, they
+have remained firm in their belief. Mohammed quite hoped at first that
+the Jews would easily be converted to Mohammedanism. He therefore
+instructed all his followers to turn their faces towards the temple at
+Jerusalem when praying, but before many months he saw that his hopes in
+this direction were doomed to disappointment. He therefore withdrew his
+former instructions, and ordained that in future all Mohammedans should
+turn to the Ka&rsquo;aba at Mecca when engaged in prayer.</p>
+<p>The Jews in Mosul are looked down upon and despised by Christian and
+Moslem alike. In the dispensary it is sad to see with what loathing the
+Jews are treated. The scornful way in which the word
+&ldquo;Yahudi&rdquo; (Jew) is hurled at these people is enough to make
+one&rsquo;s heart ache for them. If there is anything degrading to be
+done, a Jew is the only one to be found willing to do it. The Jews are
+the shoe-blacks of Mosul. It being considered very degrading to clean
+boots and shoes, the Jew undertakes this task, receiving payment at the
+rate of about &frac14;d. a pair. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb194"
+href="#pb194" name="pb194">194</a>]</span></p>
+<p>It is a wonderful sight to see all these different
+nationalities&mdash;Moslems, Christians, Jews, Kurds, Arabs, Devil
+Worshippers&mdash;all sitting down together in the waiting-room of the
+dispensary while waiting their turn to see the doctor.</p>
+<p>It reminds one of the picture of Peace, in which the artist depicts
+the lion, the leopard, and the wolf living in harmony with the lamb. I
+am afraid the resemblance is only superficial, for in the hearts of
+that rude miscellaneous throng there is little of peace, and much of
+anger, wrath, jealousy, hatred, and murder.</p>
+<p>The dwellers in the desert and mountain would scorn the idea of
+passing the time in recreations of any kind, but the town gentlemen
+much enjoy a little relaxation from their arduous (?) labours. Riding
+and racing are much in vogue in Mosul. Just outside one of the gates is
+a long, level stretch of land, uncultivated, which is used by the
+sporting part of the population for racing. Betting is not a part of
+the programme. Any one who possesses a horse is at liberty to enter it
+for the races; and every Thursday afternoon a large conclave of people
+may be seen watching the performance with great interest. Horse dealers
+who have horses for sale race their animals with the hope that they
+will carry off the palm, in which case the value of the horse is
+considerably raised.</p>
+<p>A few of the Mosul men go in for hunting, but it is not a favourite
+pastime. My husband sometimes goes with some of the Begs, who are fond
+of hawking. The boys much enjoy slinging, and some of them are quite
+experts at it, at times their <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb195"
+href="#pb195" name="pb195">195</a>]</span>aim being rather too
+accurate. The spring is the season for slinging, and hundreds of boys
+may be seen outside the town on a fine day armed with these instruments
+of torture. They line up along the walls of the city, and take aim at
+every passer-by. This is somewhat disconcerting, especially when some
+little boy takes a shot at your horse&rsquo;s head or tail, a game of
+which the animal does not at all approve. Or sometimes the boys form
+armies, each opposing side being composed of an equal number of
+slingers. They stand at a distance of about fifty yards apart and
+commence warfare in real earnest. It is rather a terrible ordeal to
+have to run the gauntlet of these two opposing armies. The stones seem
+to whizz round one&rsquo;s head in a most alarming manner; but although
+my mare has received a few stray shots of which she much disapproved,
+yet I have fortunately never actually been hit. Occasionally boys
+become so vicious in their excitement that the Government here has to
+put a stop to their &ldquo;wars&rdquo; for a time, as they do so much
+injury to one another.</p>
+<p>A form of recreation which is indulged in by all the Mosul people is
+that of paying a yearly visit to a hot sulphur spring. This spring is
+situated about twelve miles from Mosul on the Baghdad road, and is
+called Hammam Ali.</p>
+<p>A small village has grown up around the spring, but cannot furnish
+anything like the accommodation needed for the thousands of visitors
+who flock there in the early summer. To meet this need, small booths
+are built of dried grass, each family renting one for the time of their
+visit. Two years ago it <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb196" href=
+"#pb196" name="pb196">196</a>]</span>was estimated that ten thousand
+people from Mosul were there at one time, all congregated together
+without any proper accommodation, or any sanitary arrangements; the
+consequence was that disease and sickness were very prevalent amongst
+them, and many went seeking health, and found death.</p>
+<p>Last year a similar number were as usual gathered at Hammam Ali,
+when one evening a lighted match was carelessly thrown down, with the
+result that in a few minutes many of these booths were a mass of
+flames. Several children were burnt to death and two women.</p>
+<p>The next day the exodus from the place was universal. We were
+staying then at a house midway between Mosul and Hammam Ali, and
+watched the procession of people returning, a steady stream from
+morning till night. After a day or two, however, the sad episode was
+forgotten, and visitors began to flock back again.</p>
+<p>We once saw this celebrated place. It was on our way to Mosul, and
+we arrived late one night at Hammam Ali, minus our tent. The villagers
+kindly offered us the use of the Hammam (bath) for the night, so we
+made a tour of inspection, but decided to decline their offer with
+thanks.</p>
+<p>The place was damp, dirty, and malodorous. We preferred to pass the
+night in a stable, which looked a trifle more inviting, although full
+of rat-holes. In the morning I paid a visit to the Hammam, as it was a
+ladies&rsquo; bathing day, and found the bath crowded with women and
+children, packed in like sardines in a box! The water was very hot, and
+I wondered the women could stand <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb197"
+href="#pb197" name="pb197">197</a>]</span>so long in it. Some of them
+looked rather as if they had been boiled. Here were women and children,
+apparently healthy, bathing in the same water as others suffering from
+all manner of skin diseases and other horrible things. However, they
+all looked perfectly happy and contented; and I would not grudge these
+poor creatures any little pleasure which might help to brighten their
+lives.</p>
+<p>We shall see in the following chapters how little brightness they
+possess, and, on the other hand, how much of sadness and sorrow.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb198" href="#pb198" name=
+"pb198">198</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e2537" href="#xd20e2537src" name="xd20e2537">1</a></span> Extract
+from &ldquo;The Literary History of the Arabs,&rdquo; by R. A.
+Nicholson, M.A.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2.3" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter III</h2>
+<h2 class="main">The River Tigris</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">The river Tigris&mdash;Ancient historical
+interest&mdash;Garden of Eden&mdash;Origin of name
+unknown&mdash;Swiftness&mdash;Sources&mdash;Navigation&mdash;Keleqs&mdash;Bathing,
+fishing, washing&mdash;Crossing rivers.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;The softly lapsing river,</p>
+<p class="line">It whispers in its flow,</p>
+<p class="line">Of dear days gone for ever,</p>
+<p class="line">Those days of long ago.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">P. B. Marston.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The river Tigris, on the banks of which Mosul is
+situated, is a noble stream. Though inferior in length to its sister
+the Euphrates, yet it is no mean rival, either in antiquity or
+historical fame. They share together the distinction of having on their
+banks the romantic spot reputed to be the Paradise of Adam and Eve. The
+Garden of Eden is situated, according to the tradition of the country,
+near the junction of the Euphrates and Tigris. When we passed that way
+on our journey from Busrah to Baghdad, the land was flooded by the
+spring rains, so we saw nothing of the beauties of Paradise.</p>
+<p>The Tigris can also claim, in common with the Euphrates, an
+interesting connection with some of the ancient kingdoms of the world,
+extending back to early post-diluvian times. Near by, the Assyrian
+Empire built its towns of splendour and strength. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb199" href="#pb199" name=
+"pb199">199</a>]</span>Daniel records visions seen upon its banks,
+Cyrus is said to have marched his troops along its shores, Alexander
+overthrew the armies of the Medes and Persians near its basin, while in
+the plain of Nineveh the dynasty of the Ommiade caliphs was destroyed
+and supplanted by that of the Abassides. The origin of its name is
+unknown, but it is thought that the swiftly-flowing character of the
+river gave rise to its name. Hence the old Scriptural name Hiddekel,
+signifying &ldquo;swift or quick.&rdquo; Owing to its wealth of
+fertilising power, it is sometimes called by the Arabs
+&ldquo;Nahar-as-Salam,&rdquo; the River of Peace. At all times the
+Tigris is a swift river, but the velocity with which it travels differs
+according to the season of the year, the swiftest time of all being in
+the spring, when the snows from all the surrounding mountains melt and
+rush down to the river, causing it often to overflow its banks, and
+increasing its impetuosity to a great extent. At this time it is
+possible to travel on the river from Mosul to Baghdad in forty-eight
+hours, while in the late summer or autumn it takes at least ten or
+twelve days. When flowing at its fastest rate, the Tigris is said to be
+swifter than the Danube. The course of the river is a very winding one,
+extending for about 1040 miles. Its breadth varies very much. At Mosul
+it is a little less than 400 feet, at Baghdad about 600, while in one
+place where another river flows into it, the width amounts to over 1000
+feet.</p>
+<p>The sources of the Tigris are at an altitude about 5000 feet above
+sea-level, but the greater part of its fall is accomplished at its
+commencement, by the time it reaches Mosul the elevation above
+sea-level <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb200" href="#pb200" name=
+"pb200">200</a>]</span>is only 353 feet, the remainder of its course, a
+distance of about 650 miles, being made by easy descent.</p>
+<p>With a very little trouble the river could easily be made navigable
+as far up as Mosul, the chief hindrance to this being obstructions in
+the river which could be removed by dynamite or other explosives. A
+day&rsquo;s journey from Mosul by water there is a large dam stretching
+right across the river, believed to have been built by Darius with the
+intent to prevent Alexander from penetrating his dominions by means of
+the river. When the Tigris is full this is not an insurmountable
+barrier even as it exists now. During the summer and autumn the water
+is very shallow, and steamers would find it difficult to reach Mosul,
+but a little engineering could render the river navigable at all
+seasons. Once or twice steamers have reached Mosul, thereby causing
+great excitement amongst the natives. For the last thirty years it has
+been the talk of Mosul that &ldquo;steamers are coming,&rdquo; but they
+have not yet started. We heard a year ago that two steamers had been
+chartered for plying between Mosul and Baghdad, and were only awaiting
+a firman from the Sultan, but so far nothing has been seen of them.</p>
+<p>Pending the inauguration of steamers, the natives still continue to
+use the same method of river transport as existed in the days of
+Abraham and Jonah. This consists of a raft-like construction, and is
+employed for both passenger and goods traffic. It is composed of a
+number of sheep or goat skins inflated and fastened close together,
+upon which <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb201" href="#pb201" name=
+"pb201">201</a>]</span>cross-bars of wood are laid and bound firmly in
+place. The skins are examined daily and when necessary reinflated;
+great care must be taken to keep them moist, for if they become dry
+they are liable to burst. The raft is manned by one or two natives,
+whose only work is to guide the &ldquo;keleq,&rdquo; as the raft is
+called, to keep it in the middle of the stream, away from all dangerous
+rocks and shoals. For this purpose a rough kind of oar is used, made
+from the branch of a tree, with palm branches at the end forming the
+blade. The keleq floats down the river with the current, the passengers
+amusing themselves with singing and reciting stories.</p>
+<p>When a European travels, a little hut is built for his convenience.
+A light framework of lath is run up, just large enough to hold a
+travelling bedstead and chair; this is covered with felt or water-proof
+sheeting and placed upon the raft. On arrival at Baghdad the whole is
+sold for about half its original price. The owner of the keleq sells
+the planks of wood forming the floor of the raft, packs up carefully
+his skins, and returns by land to Mosul, as the current is too strong
+to allow of his return the same way as he came. He is then ready to be
+hired for another journey. In good weather a journey on a raft is a
+very pleasant mode of travelling. It has many advantages over
+caravaning by land. There is no need of the early morning or midnight
+scramble preparatory to the start. The owner simply ties up after
+sunset, and as soon as dawn appears he quietly slips the rope, and off
+the raft glides, while the passenger is still sweetly slumbering,
+unconscious of any movement. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb202" href=
+"#pb202" name="pb202">202</a>]</span></p>
+<p>In summer, however, the river is the happy hunting-ground of flies
+and mosquitoes, the result being that rest and sleep are impossible
+either by day or night. In a storm, too, the keleq is not a very secure
+place of refuge. An English lady travelling from Mosul to Baghdad was
+once caught in a hurricane and her keleq blown about in such a way that
+she expected every minute to find herself precipitated into the river,
+while her little hut and all its contents were saturated through and
+through with water.</p>
+<p>A raft is a good target for the Arabs whose villages lie along the
+banks of the river. An Englishman once placed his bicycle, which he was
+taking home, on the top of his hut, thinking to keep it out of
+harm&rsquo;s way. The Arabs, seeing this extraordinary-looking machine,
+at once came to the conclusion that it was a Maxim gun or some such
+deadly weapon. They immediately opened fire, and continued shooting
+till the raft was out of sight&mdash;fortunately with no serious
+result.</p>
+<p>The French Consul at Mosul was also attacked by Arabs when
+travelling on a keleq. For seven hours they kept up an active fusilade,
+both parties making good use of their guns.</p>
+<p>The merchants of Mosul use these rafts for exporting their goods to
+Baghdad and other places. After the harvest enormous keleqs may daily
+be seen leaving Mosul, loaded heavily with wheat and corn. All goods
+for the south are exported in this way. For these large commercial
+rafts, about three to four hundred skins are used, while others contain
+from fifty to two hundred, according to the size of <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb203" href="#pb203" name="pb203">203</a>]</span>raft
+and number of passengers. A European travelling alone would need about
+one hundred and fifty to two hundred skins to make a fairly comfortable
+raft.</p>
+<p>Natives often use a single inflated skin for travelling down the
+river, sometimes even going as far as Baghdad on one. This latter feat
+a man has been known to accomplish in twenty-four hours. It is by no
+means as easy as it looks, to balance yourself on a skin; when bathing
+we have often tried, but found it very difficult. The Arabs use these
+skins as ferry-boats when the river is unfordable. They take off their
+garments and tie them round their head as a turban, so that when they
+reach the opposite side their clothes are quite dry.</p>
+<p>In a village near Mosul I have seen women crossing the river in this
+way, many of them carrying a child on her back in addition to a large
+bundle of clothes which she has been washing in the river. The Arabs,
+both men, women, and children, are quite at home in the
+river&mdash;swimming as easily as ducks, and playing all manner of
+games in the water; it is quite interesting to watch them from a
+distance. The women do not take off their long loose garment, but just
+hold the skirt of it in their teeth if it impedes their swimming. Last
+summer we were staying for a time at a castle quite near the river,
+about an hour&rsquo;s ride from Mosul; while there we bathed almost
+every day, a small wood running to the edge of the water acting as a
+convenient dressing-place. The owner of the castle gave notice to all
+the villagers that the wood was &ldquo;hareem&rdquo; each afternoon, so
+we were always quite private. I engaged the services of an <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb204" href="#pb204" name="pb204">204</a>]</span>Arab
+woman to teach me to swim whenever my husband could not be there. She
+could swim like a fish herself, but had no idea of teaching any one
+else; however, before our holidays were over I had mastered the art.
+She would make me put one hand on her shoulder and then call out:
+&ldquo;Now, kick&rdquo;&mdash;that was the sum total of her
+instructions, &ldquo;kick&rdquo;! The river is considered very
+dangerous for bathing unless you know it well. Shortly before we were
+there last year, an Arab woman had been drowned. She was a good
+swimmer, and was swimming in deep water, when suddenly she called out
+that she was drowning, and before any one could go to her rescue she
+sank, and was quickly carried down the stream by the current; when the
+body was recovered life was quite extinct. For a few days the women
+were too frightened to bathe in that place, thinking that death was due
+to something in the water; but when we arrived a fortnight later they
+had apparently quite recovered from their fright, and were bathing as
+usual.</p>
+<p>Another day we were watching the men playing in the water, when
+suddenly a black object appeared in the distance floating down the
+stream; it looked like the head of a baby. As it approached the place
+where the men were bathing, one of our servants swam out to see what it
+was, and found to his horror it was the body of a man. He brought it to
+the bank, and every one rushed to view the corpse. Then came the
+question as to who would bury it; no one was willing to do this,
+although the body was that of an Arab, and all the onlookers were also
+Arab villagers. We offered backsheesh to any one who <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb205" href="#pb205" name=
+"pb205">205</a>]</span>would dig the grave, but no one volunteered, and
+suggested pushing the body out into the current again to be carried to
+Baghdad, as the easiest way of settling the matter. Finally a mullah
+passed by, and seeing the body, ordered some men to bury it at once. We
+were very thankful, as we could not bear to think of the poor body
+floating down the stream, or being left exposed on the banks of the
+river.</p>
+<p>We watched some men dig a very shallow grave, and the body was laid
+to rest, the mullah reciting some Moslem prayers ere it was covered
+with earth and stones.</p>
+<p>As one sees such scenes as this taking place, it is not pleasant to
+think that this same river forms our sole water supply for drinking and
+all domestic purposes! If we take a walk down the river to the place
+where the water-carriers fetch the water, we shall have all the more
+reason thoroughly to enjoy our water! There hundreds of women are to be
+seen washing their clothes, men and boys enjoying a swim, horses,
+mules, and donkeys revelling in the mud; while not at all unlikely a
+few dead dogs or cats may be seen floating around! All congregate in
+this favourite spot. This being the case, it is not surprising that
+often our water resembles <i>mud</i> much more than water when brought
+to the house. Needless to say, all our drinking-water is filtered and
+boiled before using. The water is brought from the river in skins on
+the back of donkeys or mules, at the rate of 3s. 4d. a hundred skins.
+It seems so absurd to be paying in this way for water when, with a
+comparatively speaking small outlay, it could easily be conveyed to
+each house by means of pipes from the river running close <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb206" href="#pb206" name="pb206">206</a>]</span>by.
+This has been done by an energetic Vali in Damascus, and the result is
+enviable.</p>
+<p>The Tigris cannot be said to contain a great or varied supply of
+fish, but there are two or three kinds to be found, which help to vary
+the housekeeping monotony of everlasting mutton and chicken. A very
+large fish called &ldquo;bis&rdquo; is the best kind, as the meat is
+tender and mild, while the bones are few; the others seem to be all
+bones, and are hardly worth eating, besides being absolutely
+flavourless.</p>
+<p>Fishing is carried on from the bridge by the fish-sellers. A line is
+generally used, baited with melon or pieces of flesh. Sometimes poison
+is thrown into the river in order to kill the fish, which then float on
+the top of the water and are easily caught. In the summer it is very
+risky buying fish in the bazaar, as it so soon becomes stale; so if I
+want to be quite sure of having fresh fish, I send a servant down to
+the bridge to <i>see</i> a fish caught and then bring it home. As a
+matter of fact, I fancy he does not at all like sitting in the sun
+waiting, so often beguiles the time by sitting in the coffee-house
+situated on the banks of the river; and then, having allowed an hour or
+two to elapse, returns empty-handed, saying: &ldquo;There are no fish
+in the river to-day.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Rivers without bridges are a great trial of patience when
+journeying; it takes such a long time to transport everything, and the
+crossing generally takes place at the end of a stage when every one is
+tired, and&mdash;shall I confess it?&mdash;often cross too. The waiting
+in the burning sun while the boats are fetched, the weary bargaining,
+and all the usual trials of patience become exaggerated out of their
+due proportions <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb207" href="#pb207"
+name="pb207">207</a>]</span>when you know that just across the water is
+the resting-place for the night&mdash;so near and yet so far! And as
+you sit on the <i>wrong</i> side of the river waiting, waiting, it is
+difficult to feel restful and at peace with all men. I long often to be
+able to do as the animals do, <i>i.e.</i> swim over. A small charge is
+made for the transport of each animal, so the muleteer often prefers to
+swim over himself, taking his animals with him. There is as a rule only
+one ferry-boat, so that you have to take your turn; and as each passage
+takes about an hour, a great deal of patience is often needed.</p>
+<p>The ferry-boat is a large flat-bottomed, antediluvian-looking
+construction, and you wonder how ever it can bear the weight of all
+that is put upon it. When a carriage is to be transported the horses
+are first unharnessed, then the vehicle is lifted bodily on to the
+boat, with all its contents, the passengers and horses finding
+standing-room as best they can.</p>
+<p>When you get to the other side your troubles are not over, for on
+starting to put up the tent you find one of the poles has been left
+behind on the other side; so there is nothing to do but to sit still
+and continue the waiting process. Or perhaps you think a cup of tea
+would help while away the time, only to find that the charcoal has not
+yet arrived! So there is only one thing to do, and that is to wait till
+everything is safely landed; then you can begin to prepare for the
+long-delayed rest. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb208" href="#pb208"
+name="pb208">208</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2.4" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter IV</h2>
+<h2 class="main">The Children of Mosul</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Spoiling process&mdash;Despair of the
+parents&mdash;The &ldquo;god&rdquo; of the hareem&mdash;Death by
+burning&mdash;Festivities at birth of boy&mdash;Cradles and cradle
+songs&mdash;School life&mdash;Feast in honour of a boy having read the
+Koran through&mdash;&ldquo;Only a girl&rdquo;&mdash;Girl
+life&mdash;Girl victims of Naseeb&mdash;Marriage.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<p class="first">&ldquo;The household must weep for forty days on the
+birth of a girl.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Arabic Proverb.</span></p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Is it all forgot? All schooldays&rsquo;
+friendship,</p>
+<p class="line">Childhood&rsquo;s innocence?&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Where children are not, heaven is
+not.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">A. Swinburne.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The children of Mosul have on the whole a very good
+time. From their earliest days they are allowed to do pretty much as
+they like, and only when the process of spoiling is completed, and the
+child has become a terror to all, do the parents realise that it is far
+easier to spoil a child than to &ldquo;unspoil&rdquo; him, once the
+deed is done. This method, or rather lack of method, of bringing up the
+children, is a great cause of trouble and sorrow in after years both to
+the parents and to the children themselves, but yet they never seem to
+profit by their experiences, for they still continue to say that it is
+a great &ldquo;aib&rdquo; or shame to deny a child anything he may
+want. Although this spoiling process is carried on with both boys and
+girls in the earlier years of their lives, it is brought to perfection
+in their treatment of the boys.</p>
+<p>I remember a pretty little child called Jamila <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb209" href="#pb209" name=
+"pb209">209</a>]</span>(beautiful); she was so fair and pretty that she
+was known by many as &ldquo;the English child.&rdquo; When she was
+about three years old she became very ill, and the mother brought her
+to my husband, who prescribed for her, but said that the chief part of
+the treatment lay in the diet. On no account was solid food to be given
+for at least three or four days. The mother looked in despair when she
+heard this, as she said, &ldquo;Jamila will cry if she cannot have her
+meat and bread and pillau!&rdquo; A day or two later I was calling at
+the house, and saw that Jamila was looking very ill, and asked the
+mother what the child had been eating. &ldquo;Oh,&rdquo; she said,
+&ldquo;poor little child, I had to give her meat and bread, for she
+tore her hair and clothes in her anger, on my refusing to give them to
+her, and so, how could I deny them to her?&rdquo; And sure enough,
+while I was there, Jamila began to cry for bread, and on her mother
+refusing, threw herself on the ground in a paroxysm of anger, beating
+her head and face with her clenched fist, till she was quite blue and
+black in the face. The mother ran at once and brought bread and meat,
+and gave to the child, who immediately recovered her equanimity of mind
+and temper.</p>
+<p>Then again, I have seen a room full of people all in despair over a
+child of perhaps two or three years old, who refuses to drink his
+medicine ordered by the doctor. The father begins the performance by
+solemnly taking the glass containing the medicine up to the child, and
+saying to him, &ldquo;Oh, my beloved, <i>will</i> you take this
+medicine?&rdquo; &ldquo;No,&rdquo; says the child, and pushes it away.
+The father looks round on the audience for signs of wonder and
+astonishment at the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb210" href="#pb210"
+name="pb210">210</a>]</span>marvellous doings of the child. Then
+perhaps the uncle has a try, and meets with like success; then the
+mother, the aunts, and a few friends all beseech the child to take the
+medicine, saying, &ldquo;For my sake, for the sake of your father, your
+mother, &amp;c., take this,&rdquo; but, of course, all are
+unsuccessful, and they all shake their heads and say, &ldquo;I told you
+so, he will <i>not</i> take it,&rdquo; and it being a
+&ldquo;khatiya&rdquo; (sin) to force a child to do anything against his
+will, the child, of course, gains the victory in this as in everything
+else. If you suggest pouring the medicine down the child&rsquo;s throat
+by force, the parents and friends will put you down as being a monster
+of cruelty.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2731width" id="p210-1"><img src=
+"images/p210-1.jpg" alt="Dr. Hume-Griffith&rsquo;s Study in Mosul"
+width="588" height="431">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Dr. Hume-Griffith&rsquo;s Study
+in Mosul</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e2736width" id="p210-2"><img src=
+"images/p210-2.jpg" alt="Our Drawing-Room in Julfa" width="586" height=
+"441">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Our Drawing-Room in
+Julfa</span></p>
+</div>
+<p>If there happens to be only one boy in the hareem, he becomes almost
+like a little god to all the women folk. A small friend of mine was in
+this position, and although a very jolly little boy, was fast becoming
+unbearable in his actions towards his grandmother, mother, and aunts.
+He was only about eight years old, but one day he was calling on me
+with his aunt, whom I loved very much, when, without the smallest
+provocation, he suddenly took up a stick and gave his aunt two or three
+hard cuts across her shoulders with it, and then ran laughing out of
+the room. I did not say anything to the boy, but presently my husband
+came in to lunch, and I asked him to give the boy a beating, and told
+him what he had done. So we went to hunt for the boy, and found him
+hiding behind his grandmother, who besought us not to touch the darling
+boy. My husband gave the boy a very slight whipping, and told him if
+ever he did such a thing again, he would give him something to
+remember! The boy was so <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb211" href=
+"#pb211" name="pb211">211</a>]</span>astonished at being chastised,
+that to this day he has been a changed boy, and much more bearable in
+his home life.</p>
+<p>Another instance of the way the boys are spoilt. A woman and her
+daughter, a little girl of about eight years, were sitting in their
+verandah one day behind a pile of cotton which had just been
+&ldquo;fluffed&rdquo; by the man whose work it is to fluff cotton. The
+son of the woman, a boy of seven, thought it would be great fun to set
+a light to this cotton, which he promptly did by throwing a lighted
+match into the midst of it, with the result that his mother and sister
+were burnt to death. I called at the house some days after, and found
+the boy who had done this deed quite a hero in the eyes of the women
+folk, and far from being blamed and punished, on the contrary they were
+fondling and caressing him more than ever. I told them I thought the
+boy was so pleased with all the attention he was receiving, that very
+likely he would do the same thing again if he had the opportunity.</p>
+<p>Let me give you a short sketch of a child&rsquo;s life, in order
+that you may see for yourself something of their everyday life.</p>
+<p>As we are talking of Eastern children, we must begin with the boy,
+as he is so much more important a personage than a mere girl.</p>
+<p>A boy&rsquo;s birth is celebrated by great rejoicings and feastings,
+and if the family is a well-to-do one, at least two sheep will be slain
+and cooked and given to the poor. Our next-door neighbours were
+rejoicing over the birth of a boy a short time ago, and they thought it
+necessary to sacrifice three sheep, and for <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb212" href="#pb212" name="pb212">212</a>]</span>two
+days the poor were coming with their little dishes and pots to carry
+away portions of the meat. I went to see this ceremony, and it was very
+interesting. Apparently no questions were asked, the only
+recommendations necessary being poverty and need. Also hundreds of
+loaves of bread were given away at this time. If we go to the hareem to
+admire and pay our homage to the little king, we must be careful not to
+praise him too much, or, if we do, we must qualify our praise by saying
+&ldquo;Mash&rsquo;allah,&rdquo; which will counteract any evil
+influence. We shall find the baby boy swathed up tightly in his
+swaddling clothes, his eyebrows and eyelids pencilled with native
+cosmetics, and very likely a beauty spot on his forehead; his little
+head will be covered with a little silk cap, over which a handkerchief
+will be wrapped, and on the cap will be seen some coins and blue beads,
+to avert the dreaded evil eye. We shall find him very probably strapped
+tightly into a cradle made of brightly-painted wood; the baby is laid
+on the top of the little mattress, which is level with the sides of the
+cradle, and then strapped down. As he grows out of his first cradle he
+will be given another and larger one, and much more comfortable, in
+which he need not be strapped, as the sides are high enough to prevent
+his falling out; a cord is attached to the cradle, so that his mother
+can swing him gently while she sits and spins or does anything she has
+to do. It is very quaint to listen to their monotonous chant as they
+rock the cradle, and very often they sing to the swing of the cradle,
+&ldquo;Allah ho, Allah hi, Allah ho, Allah hi,&rdquo; &ldquo;He is God,
+He is living, He is God, He is living.&rdquo; <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb213" href="#pb213" name="pb213">213</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The first time of shaving a boy&rsquo;s head is looked upon as a
+very important day, and the barber must be careful to leave a little
+tuft of hair on the top of the head, by which he can be pulled up into
+heaven, otherwise he might get left behind.</p>
+<p>When the boy is about five, he will probably be sent to school. He
+is then dressed as a miniature man, in white knickerbockers, shirt,
+coloured vest, and silk or cloth &ldquo;zeboon,&rdquo; a loose garment
+reaching to the ankles; on his head, of course, will be the inevitable
+red fez, adorned with charms to bring him good luck and keep off evil.
+Arrived at the school, our little friend will seat himself on the
+ground, and his education will begin by learning the <span class=
+"Arabic" lang="ar">&#1575; &#1576; &#1578;</span> (<i>alef</i>,
+<i>bey</i>, <i>tey</i>), the A, B, C, of the Arabic language. After he
+has mastered the alphabet, and can write a few words, then the Koran
+will be started, and the boy will be kept hard at this, each day
+learning a short portion till a chapter is known perfectly by heart.
+All the boys in the school may be reciting different portions of the
+Koran at the same time, and in a sing-song tone, so that, as you pass
+up and down the streets, it is easy to recognise these seats of
+learning for the young. I have often peeped into some of these schools,
+and watched the boys, all seated on the ground, swaying themselves
+backwards and forwards, repeating the Koran in a loud, monotonous
+voice. When a boy has been through the Koran once, a great feast is
+made in his honour. He is decked out in grand new garments, generally
+of silk and embroidery, and men dancers are engaged for a day or more,
+according to the means of the parents.</p>
+<p>The son of a friend of mine in Mosul had just <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb214" href="#pb214" name=
+"pb214">214</a>]</span>completed this part of his education, and his
+mother sent word to know if the dancers might come and dance before us
+in our compound. We thought this might be rather trying, as they would
+probably have stayed all day, so I sent a message thanking her for the
+honour, but saying I would prefer to come to her house to see the
+&ldquo;tamash&rdquo; (sight), as I only had a limited time to give to
+it. So at the time appointed I went, accompanied by a woman servant and
+a man, as I thought there would probably be a great commotion. On
+arriving at the door of the house, it seemed hopeless even to think of
+getting in, as the courtyard was full of men, dancing, shouting,
+yelling, whirling and slashing naked swords and daggers. The court was
+a very small one, and my first thought was to turn and fly, but the
+hostess was a very dear friend of mine, and I did not like to
+disappoint her, so I sent the man-servant in front to open a passage in
+the crowd and followed hard after him, and felt very thankful when we
+reached a room safely. The women were gathered there looking out of the
+windows at the fun. But this did not seem to please the dancers, for
+they called repeatedly for the &ldquo;khatoun&rdquo; (lady) to come and
+watch them, and some even followed me into the room, thereby throwing
+the women into a state of panic and fright. The men were so wildly
+excited that they hardly knew what they were doing. Stripped to the
+waist, they flourished their swords and yelled, then jumped high into
+the air, then crouched on the ground and again leapt into the air, all
+the time pointing the daggers or swords either at their own hearts or
+some one else&rsquo;s. To <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb215" href=
+"#pb215" name="pb215">215</a>]</span>add to the general excitement,
+other men were beating drums and playing on a weird kind of stringed
+instrument. After receiving their &ldquo;backsheesh&rdquo; they
+departed, for which I was not sorry. The boy in whose honour all this
+is taking place is very happy and delighted, and thinks <i>now</i> he
+is a man, and so, as he is leaving his childhood behind him, we too
+will leave him and pass on to the much less important subject (from an
+Eastern standpoint) of the childhood of a girl.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Only a girl&rdquo;&mdash;&ldquo;Only a girl.&rdquo; These are
+the words which generally follow the announcement of the birth of a
+girl. Poor little mite, her entrance into the world is not a cause of
+great joy or rejoicing, and from her earliest days, I think, this lies
+as a shadow upon her; for to my mind there is a sadness and pathos
+about the little girls quite different to the masterful looks and ways
+of the boys, the lords of creation. As it is a part of the
+Moslem&rsquo;s creed to bow in submission to the will of God, so the
+parents now, as always, say, &ldquo;It is God&rsquo;s will&rdquo;
+(&ldquo;Al Allah&rdquo;), and bow their heads in submission to this new
+yoke put upon them. Of course there are exceptions, and some love their
+little daughters very much, but taken as a rule, girls are not
+welcome&mdash;certainly not more than one. If the parents of the girl
+baby are well-to-do, perhaps they may sacrifice one sheep, but the
+feastings and almsgiving are done in a much quieter way and with as
+little ostentation as possible; and if you visit the mother it is not
+necessary to say <i>very</i> much about the new arrival as it is
+&ldquo;only a girl,&rdquo; and it is not well to make the poor mother
+feel too sad.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2787width" id="p216"><img src="images/p216.jpg"
+alt="A Group of Persian Girls" width="720" height="483">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Group of Persian
+Girls</span></p>
+<p class="first">Many of these little girls are very pretty and
+winsome. The one sitting at the extreme left of the front row is a very
+attractive child, and a great favourite of mine. Her name is
+&ldquo;Beloved.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb216" href="#pb216" name=
+"pb216">216</a>]</span></p>
+<p>So the little girl starts her life, with not too much love and
+attention. If she happens to be well and strong she will thrive apace
+in spite of all, but if she is at all inclined to be weak or delicate,
+the chances are that she will be neglected until it is too late for
+human aid, and then perhaps, as a conscience salve, she will be taken
+to the doctor by the mother or some other relative. How many of these
+little victims have been brought when too late to my husband I should
+not like to say. Directly the doctor sees a child suffering from some
+terribly neglected disease he at once says, &ldquo;A girl, of course!
+If the child had been a boy you would have brought him long ago.&rdquo;
+And so, alas, it is true of many cases. It is a convenient way of
+getting rid of some of a too numerous family of girls, and then the
+mothers and relations will piously clasp their hands and say, &ldquo;It
+is the will of God.&rdquo; The will of God, indeed! This so-called
+submission to the will of God, or &ldquo;kismet&rdquo; or
+&ldquo;naseeb,&rdquo; as the Turk and Arab call it, is often
+responsible for a great deal of neglect by mothers of their little
+girls. For instance, there was such a nice-looking young widow who used
+to come and see me. She had two children, both girls, the elder about
+five years of age, and the younger nearly three. This younger child was
+a perfectly beautiful child&mdash;just like a lovely wax doll; indeed,
+so much did she resemble a doll that she was often called
+&ldquo;l&rsquo;abbi,&rdquo; which means a doll. Her sweet little face
+had a complexion which any English mother might have been proud of, and
+her large brown eyes were full of life and fun, while her dear little
+golden curls falling over her forehead and <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb217" href="#pb217" name=
+"pb217">217</a>]</span>forming a halo round her head gave her an
+appearance of a little cherub. I found out very soon that this child
+had the beginnings of a terrible disease in her, which, if attended to
+at once, might be cured, but which neglected would mean certain and
+sure death. I spoke to the mother about it, and implored her to bring
+the child to the hospital for treatment; but no, she would not listen;
+she simply shrugged her shoulders and said, &ldquo;Naseeb, al Allah. If
+the child is to die, she will die; if it is written she is to live, she
+will live,&rdquo; and nothing I could say would induce her either to
+bring the child or to let us have her to take care of; and I heard
+afterwards from a neighbour that the mother wanted the little girlie to
+die, so that she might be free to marry again, as no man would take a
+wife who already was burdened with two girls. Instances of this kind
+might be multiplied by the hundred, showing how girl life is neglected,
+under the blasphemous idea that it is &ldquo;naseeb.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>As a rule it is not considered at all necessary to send a Moslem
+girl to school, but quite lately the Turkish authorities have opened
+some schools for girls in Mosul, and have sent women teachers from
+Constantinople, so this is a step in the right direction. I visited one
+of these schools, and was very much struck by the happier looks of the
+girls compared with the faces of the same girls in their own homes.
+They are taught to read and write and, of course, to recite the Koran.
+Also, we were shown some very pretty pieces of silk embroidery which
+the girls had just finished, and really some were quite artistic and
+pretty. These schools are free, the <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb218" href="#pb218" name="pb218">218</a>]</span>teachers being paid
+by Government, and, therefore, girls of all classes sit side by side.
+The pasha&rsquo;s daughter and the daughter of the pasha&rsquo;s slave
+may both attend the same school and mix quite freely and happily
+together.</p>
+<p>For the first seven or eight years of a girl&rsquo;s life she may go
+unveiled and run about pretty freely with only a silk scarf on her
+head, but when she reaches the age of nine or thereabout a great change
+takes place in her life. She is prohibited from going out, except
+occasionally with the mother or other relations, and then she must be
+closely veiled. Poor children, I do so often pity them&mdash;they so
+soon leave their childhood behind them and become women before they
+come to girlhood. Of course the great aim and object of parents is to
+marry the girls as soon as possible to the man who can offer the
+highest price for her; but the subject of weddings is so extensive that
+we must leave it for another chapter. Only I will say here that I think
+the reason girls are looked upon more or less as a nuisance is because
+they cost so much to get married; for if a father has three or four
+girls to marry, he needs to be a rich man. From the time the girl is
+four or five years old he begins loading her with gold and jewellery,
+so that by the day she comes to be of a marriageable age she shall have
+a good supply to offer to her would-be husband. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb219" href="#pb219" name="pb219">219</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2.5" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter V</h2>
+<h2 class="main">The Moslem Women of Mosul</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Beauty behind the veil&mdash;Types of beauty&mdash;My
+dear old friend of 110 years of age&mdash;Aids to beauty
+described&mdash;Pretty children&mdash;Beauty tainted with
+sin&mdash;Imprisonment of women&mdash;Peeps into some
+hareems&mdash;Warm receptions&mdash;A visit from the ladies of a select
+hareem&mdash;Love the magic key to open hearts.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<p class="first">&ldquo;Women are worthless creatures, and soil
+men&rsquo;s reputations.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Arabic Proverb.</span></p>
+<p>&ldquo;As I told you always, her beauty and her brain go not
+together.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">It has often been said that there is very little
+beauty to be seen behind the veil in Turkish Arabia. I certainly do not
+agree with this statement, for I have seen some very beautiful faces
+amongst the Mohammedan women of Mosul. There is beauty, too, to suit
+all tastes: the winsome blonde, with her pale blue eyes and fair hair;
+the striking brunette, peeping from behind her veil with laughing brown
+eyes, which at times are as full of pathos as those of a faithful
+collie which has lost its master.</p>
+<p>I think the chief attraction of Eastern women lies in their eyes.
+One face comes to my mind as I write. It is not a pretty face in the
+ordinary sense of the word, but the eyes are wonderful, revealing a
+soul full of sadness, a longing for something not attainable: eyes that
+might make you <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb220" href="#pb220" name=
+"pb220">220</a>]</span>weep as you feel them fixed upon you in
+unspeakable yearning for love. Another type of face is the bright,
+vivacious one, seen chiefly amongst young unmarried
+women&mdash;marriage in the East generally having the effect of taking
+all brightness out of a face or a life. There is also many a sweet face
+to be seen in Mosul. Perhaps these could not be called beautiful except
+for the sweetness. One such I can see now as my memory takes me back a
+few months. A dear face is pressed close to mine, and with pleading
+blue eyes and such a sweet, expressive mouth which utters words such as
+these: &ldquo;Khatoun, I cannot go&mdash;I cannot leave you. Will you
+let me live always with you?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>If only you knew the history of this woman, you would wonder that
+her face could bear such a sweet look, or, indeed, how she managed to
+endure life at all.</p>
+<p>Beauty of the East is all too fleeting as a rule, a woman of thirty
+years of age being quite <i>pass&eacute;e</i>. Nevertheless, there are
+some very fine-looking old ladies in Mosul. One dear friend of mine is
+proud of the fact that she has reached the grand age of 110! Her face
+still retains some of its former beauty. Her daughter is a young woman
+of nearly ninety, her grand-daughter can boast of seventy years, while
+as to her great-grandchildren, they are countless!</p>
+<p>This old lady came one day to the dispensary for medicine, as she
+wished to be &ldquo;made strong&rdquo; enough to take a journey
+consisting of six hours&rsquo; riding to a hot-water spring outside
+Mosul, a place to which she had been in the habit of going regularly
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb221" href="#pb221" name=
+"pb221">221</a>]</span>for the last 100 years or so! She was also quite
+distressed because her skin was rough, and asked the doctor to give her
+some medicine to make it smooth again. Even at 110 she was capable of
+thinking of and longing for a renewal of her lost beauty. Aids to
+beauty are much sought after by the ladies of Mosul, as they do not at
+all approve of becoming &ldquo;old.&rdquo; It is quite a rare sight to
+see a white-haired woman. The moment grey hairs commence to appear they
+have recourse to henna, a dye much in request by Easterns of both
+sexes. Freckles are a cause of much sorrow of heart to Mosul ladies.
+One girl, who was really very pretty, was brought constantly to the
+dispensary by her mother, who implored my husband to eradicate the
+freckles with which her daughter&rsquo;s face was covered, as, if they
+were not removed, she might never get a proposal of marriage. However,
+a man was forthcoming who apparently did not object to freckles, for
+shortly before leaving Mosul I received an invitation to this
+girl&rsquo;s wedding-feast.</p>
+<p>There are some very pretty children in Mosul, some dark, others
+fair, with blue eyes and curly hair. However, this latter style of
+beauty is not as a rule admired. Mothers have a great horror lest their
+children should have curly hair. If a child possesses it, the women try
+by all means in their power to straighten out the curls, sometimes even
+coming to ask for medicine for this purpose.</p>
+<p>Very often, however, the children lose a great deal of their beauty
+when five or six years old. Perhaps it is because their souls at that
+age become tainted with knowledge of evil, and this knowledge is
+reflected <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb222" href="#pb222" name=
+"pb222">222</a>]</span>on their faces. It is heartrending to see pretty
+little children listening open-mouthed to some horrible tale of sin and
+wickedness told by a member of the hareem. It is true there is beauty
+behind the veil, but, alas! it is beauty tainted with the blackness of
+sin. How can lives be beautiful when the souls within are
+dead?&mdash;as dead as sin and sorrow can make them. Boys and girls
+grow up amidst surroundings which soon soil their souls; the
+&ldquo;innocency of childhood,&rdquo; so dear to the hearts of English
+parents, is unknown in a Moslem hareem.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2849width" id="p222-1"><img src=
+"images/p222-1.jpg" alt="The Camera in Mosul" width="587" height="403">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">The Camera in Mosul</span></p>
+<p class="first">The women love to be photographed, and often ask me to
+&ldquo;make pictures of them.&rdquo; These are Christian women, for no
+Moslem woman is allowed to have her photo taken.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="figure xd20e2856width" id="p222-2"><img src=
+"images/p222-2.jpg" alt="Tired of Play at a Picnic" width="586" height=
+"403">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Tired of Play at a
+Picnic</span></p>
+<p class="first">When all were tired out with playing games and
+swinging, tea was handed round.</p>
+</div>
+<p>Many and many a time have I interrupted a conversation consisting of
+things which should not be spoken of, by pointing out to the women some
+boys or girls sitting near by, listening with evident delight to their
+unclean talk. Sometimes they would desist, but as a rule would only
+laugh, saying: &ldquo;What does it matter? They know all about
+it!&rdquo; Oh! the pity and horror of it&mdash;young lives spoilt and
+contaminated almost before their feet have started on the difficult and
+perilous walk through life. Is it any wonder that these children grow
+up with diseased minds and deadened souls? Then they in their turn
+become the parents of another generation, to whom they teach the same
+soul-destroying creeds.</p>
+<p>There is no hope for the children of Mohammedan lands until the
+mothers have learnt a little of the meaning of pure life and
+conversation. There is no hope for the women while the men are what
+they are. The whole system is one of degradation and vice. When
+Mohammed, acting under what he declared to be a revelation from Allah,
+introduced the use of the veil, he swept away for ever all hope
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb223" href="#pb223" name=
+"pb223">223</a>]</span>of happiness for Moslem women. By means of the
+veil he immured them for ever in a living grave. &ldquo;Imprisoned for
+life&rdquo; is the verdict written against each Moslem woman as she
+leaves childhood behind her. Before the days of Mohammed the Arabs were
+in the habit of burying alive yearly a certain number of new-born
+girls; surely the fate of these innocents was better than that of the
+millions of women to-day who are buried alive behind the veil.
+&ldquo;Ensha&rsquo; Allah&rdquo; (God willing), in the near future the
+same Power which raised British women to hold the position they now do
+will also penetrate through the prison bars of the hareems of
+Mohammedan lands and set free the prisoners. An enlightened Mohammedan
+gentleman once said: &ldquo;The only hope for our women is
+Christianity.&rdquo; God grant that their &ldquo;only hope&rdquo; may
+not be denied them.</p>
+<p>How often I have said to these women, &ldquo;Alhamd-&rsquo;llillah
+(thank God), I am not a Moslem woman!&rdquo; and the heartfelt answer
+has always been, &ldquo;Yes, indeed, you may thank God; but it is
+naseeb&rdquo; (fate). The longer I live amongst Moslem women the more
+my heart yearns with love and pity for them, and the more thankful I am
+that their lot is not mine.</p>
+<p>Let us now peep into some of the many hareems of Mosul. There are
+some into which I should blush with shame to take my readers, on
+account of the conversations we might hear; but we will choose some
+where, in all probability, we shall see and hear nothing
+objectionable.</p>
+<p>Our first visit shall be to a near neighbour of ours. The house is a
+large one, the owner holding a high social position in the town. As we
+enter the outside <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb224" href="#pb224"
+name="pb224">224</a>]</span>gates we see a large reception-room, in
+which the master of the house is sitting holding court. We must not
+look that way, as we are in native costume; so, pulling our veils a
+little closer, we hurry on till we reach the door of the hareem. This
+is always kept locked; upon knocking, it is opened by a native girl or
+woman, who immediately kisses our hands or dress, then ushers us into
+the presence of the khatoun. In this case the head lady of the hareem
+has been a widow for some years, and is still wearing her black
+mourning dress. She rises from her place amongst the cushions on the
+floor as we enter and salaams low, bidding us welcome to her house, at
+the same time indicating our seats by her side. We arrange ourselves as
+comfortably as possible, sitting cross-legged in true Arab fashion.
+By-and-by the daughter-in-law comes in&mdash;a frail, delicate-looking
+woman, and with her a little girl, her only child. She is sad because
+she has no boy, and is afraid her husband will divorce her on this
+account.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e2878width" id="p224"><img src="images/p224.jpg"
+alt="An Itinerant Cook preparing Kabobs" width="720" height="560">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">An Itinerant Cook preparing
+Kabobs</span></p>
+<p class="first">Kabobs are a favourite dish amongst the Arabs. The
+meat is chopped very finely, wrapped round iron skewers, and roasted
+over a red-hot charcoal fire.</p>
+</div>
+<p>Since leaving Mosul I have heard that her fears on this point were
+not groundless, for her husband has since divorced her and taken
+another wife in her place. The usual coffee is handed round by one of
+the many women servants, and our hostess is very much surprised that we
+will not join her in smoking a cigarette. Sometimes there are a dozen
+or so women living in the same hareem, wives of brothers, and it is
+often difficult to know who is who. The relationships are sometimes
+most perplexing. Even to this day there are houses which I visit
+frequently, but have not yet mastered the intricate
+&ldquo;connections&rdquo; of the various members of the hareem.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb225" href="#pb225" name=
+"pb225">225</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Here is another hareem, quite different from the last one we
+visited. My special friends in this house are two young girls who are
+not yet married. They are such dear, bright girls, and as I enter throw
+their arms round my neck and bid me welcome in a most demonstrative
+way. If I am expected I always find a meal ready, and if my visit is
+unannounced, a woman is always despatched to the nearest
+&ldquo;sook&rdquo; (market) to buy an impromptu meal. They are poor
+people, and I always beg them not to do this, but they never listen to
+my entreaties. The meal consists sometimes of &ldquo;kabobs,&rdquo;
+<i>i.e.</i> meat minced and pressed round iron skewers and grilled over
+a charcoal fire; this is placed on a plate and garnished with sliced
+raw onions and bitter herbs. Another time a sheep had been killed, and
+our meal consisted of the &ldquo;interiors,&rdquo; dished in a most
+tempting manner. Sometimes salads form the principal dish; but whatever
+the meal consists of, it is always served with love, and is
+consequently thoroughly appreciated. This house seems always to be full
+of women, all more or less related. If I get mixed up, as I sometimes
+do, in the relationship of those present, and show my ignorance of
+their names, they are quite hurt, and exclaim: &ldquo;What, you have
+forgotten me?&rdquo; &ldquo;Was I not in the hospital for a
+week?&rdquo; or, &ldquo;Did I not bring So-and-so to see you?&rdquo; If
+they have seen me once, they are quite surprised if I cannot remember
+all about them, and often I have to resort to stratagem to find out
+their names without exposing my forgetfulness. While we sit and talk
+the girls are all busily engaged in crotcheting caps. These are sold in
+the sook at about six-pence <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb226" href=
+"#pb226" name="pb226">226</a>]</span>a dozen, cotton included. In
+certain &ldquo;mahullahs&rdquo; (quarters) of the town you will see all
+the women doing this work; in another part of the town they are all
+occupied with knitting socks, in another cigarette-making is the
+fashion. Each mahullah seems to have its own style of work for the
+women, to which it adheres more or less.</p>
+<p>In one house where I visit, a basin of delicious
+&ldquo;lebban&rdquo; is always set before me. We all sit on the floor
+round a diminutive table about five inches high, and each one being
+provided with a wooden spoon dips out the lebban from the central dish.
+This lebban makes a delicious food in the hot weather. It is made
+something after the same manner as &ldquo;junket,&rdquo; only lebban is
+more tart and acid. Eaten with grated cucumbers, it makes a very
+refreshing salad. Fortunately for me, I can eat and, as a rule,
+thoroughly enjoy native food. In fact, I often prefer it to our own,
+for almost all attempts at European cookery by native cooks are decided
+failures. My husband, on the other hand, cannot indulge in this
+respect, the excessive fat used being too much for his digestive
+powers.</p>
+<p>But to return to our ladies. Not only do I visit in the hareems of
+the towns, but the hareems very often pay me a visit at our house. The
+poorer class of women come very freely, and they know that they are
+always welcome. We have a room specially set apart for women visitors,
+so that they may feel quite safe from any men servants who might happen
+to be about. The higher-class ladies do not come so frequently, the
+idea being that the more strictly they keep to their own hareem, the
+more select and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb227" href="#pb227"
+name="pb227">227</a>]</span>important will they become in the eyes of
+the people. There is one family in Mosul who boast that their hareem
+have never visited any other house. So strictly have the ladies been
+kept in seclusion, that they were not even allowed to go to the
+&ldquo;hammam&rdquo; (bath) till quite lately. Now, however, they are
+allowed the luxury of once a month walking a hundred yards or so to the
+nearest bath. After becoming acquainted with the ladies of this hareem
+I was very anxious to obtain permission for them to come and visit me.
+They did not at all hold out any hope that their lords and masters
+would allow such an unheard-of proceeding. One day, however, my husband
+told the head of the house that I was very anxious for the ladies of
+his hareem to come and see me. To the great surprise of all he
+acquiesced, only stipulating that the visit should be kept as secret as
+possible. The ladies were very excited, and for days beforehand were
+talking about the proposed visit and making preparations for it. On the
+day fixed the way had to be cleared of all menkind. The doctor was
+banished from the house for the whole afternoon, the men servants were
+given a holiday, and all doors through which a stray man might happen
+to wander were carefully bolted and barred.</p>
+<p>At the hour appointed a woman servant arrived to know if all was
+ready. When she had satisfied herself that no men were visible, nor
+could become so unexpectedly, she returned to fetch the ladies. They
+arrived in all the glory of black silk chuddars, which Judy (our woman
+servant) carefully removed and folded up. The two older ladies were
+quite <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb228" href="#pb228" name=
+"pb228">228</a>]</span>simply dressed in print or muslin, but the young
+wife was decked out in one of her many bridal costumes, and looked very
+charming. She was then only about sixteen years of age, but was the
+mother of two pretty children, a girl and a boy. They were all so
+delighted to be allowed out for the first time in their lives. We began
+by eating cucumbers and water-melons, followed by tea, coffee, and
+English biscuits and cakes. These latter they much appreciated, asking
+permission to carry away some for other members of the hareem to taste.
+After refreshments had been partaken of they were very anxious to see
+all over the house. As we went from room to room it was so funny to
+hear their remarks. The bedroom seemed to take their fancy most of all,
+as they could not see why we needed a room specially for sleeping
+in.</p>
+<p>They were very charmed with our little harmonium, and listened with
+great delight while I played and sang to them some of our old English
+hymns translated into Arabic. One of the ladies trying to play could
+not understand why it would not &ldquo;speak&rdquo; for her, and upon
+my moving the pedals was overjoyed to find that she could &ldquo;make
+music.&rdquo; Their delight at everything was just like that of little
+children on finding a new toy. Their visit lasted about three hours,
+and they went away promising to come again soon. This hareem is a most
+exceptionally happy one. There is only one wife in it, the two elder
+ladies being sisters-in-law to the bride, and unmarried. They all seem
+to live together in peace and happiness. Unfortunately, this is only
+the exception, which always goes to prove the rule, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb229" href="#pb229" name="pb229">229</a>]</span>that
+hareems are not the abode of peace. How can there be peace when the
+heart is full of jealousy and hatred? One such case comes to my mind.
+There are two brothers living in one house, one of them being married.
+After some years of married life had passed and they remained
+childless, he took another wife, and the first one was thrown into
+misery and despair. Shortly after this we were awakened one night by
+hearing most fearful shrieks and yells coming from this house. The
+following day we heard that the two wives had been quarrelling and
+fighting, as usual, till at last the husband took the first wife and
+turned her forcibly out of doors. Fortunately, her mother&rsquo;s house
+was near by, to which she went, and where she remains to this day.</p>
+<p>It has been said, and unfortunately too often truly said, that love
+has no part in the life of a Moslem woman; and yet it is also true that
+they are, as a rule, a most loving and lovable set of people. It is
+because they have so little love and kindness in their own lives that,
+when it does come to them, their hearts are ready to overflow in
+response.</p>
+<p>Perhaps the Arab women are slow to give their love and trust, but
+when once given it is sure and lasting. Often these women have said to
+me, &ldquo;Why do you love us, Khatoun?&rdquo; They cannot understand
+that any one should care for them. Such an idea is outside the range of
+their experience altogether. One of the first sentences I learnt in the
+Arabic language was, &ldquo;Ana ahubkum&rdquo; (I love you all), and
+this is one of the most useful and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb230"
+href="#pb230" name="pb230">230</a>]</span>necessary phrases to be
+learnt. Love is the magic key which opens a way to the hearts of the
+Moslem women, and which brings forth much fruit in return. It is sad to
+think that these women, who are endowed with such great possibilities
+of loving, should be condemned to live their lives, aye, and die too,
+without one spark of love to brighten and cheer them through the weary
+years of their lives. Sad, too, that their favoured sisters of England
+should be content that these things should remain so. Who is to tell
+them of love if we do not? They know nothing of the God of Love, who
+looks in pity and compassion on their stricken lives. They only know of
+a God who is inexorably hard and unfeeling, who holds the destiny of
+each life in His hand, and against whom it is no use repining, for
+&ldquo;What is written is written.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Mohammed says in the Koran, &ldquo;The noblest of you in the sight
+of God is he who most doth fear Him.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Truly has it been said that the God of the Mohammedans is an
+Oriental despot. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb231" href="#pb231"
+name="pb231">231</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2.6" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter VI</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Moslem Family Life</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">No home life&mdash;Women down-trodden&mdash;Evils of
+divorce&mdash;Naseeb&mdash;The will of God&mdash;Truth and
+falsehood&mdash;Honesty prevalent&mdash;A thief caught&mdash;Swearing
+and anti-swearing&mdash;Fighting, hair-tearing, and
+biting&mdash;Hammams, the Ladies&rsquo; Club.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<p class="first">&ldquo;The heart of a woman is given to
+folly.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Arabic Proverb.</span></p>
+<p>&ldquo;May Allah never bless womankind.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Quotation from Moslem
+Author.</span></p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;The Very God! think, Abib, dost thou think?</p>
+<p class="line">So, the All-Great, were the All-Loving too&mdash;</p>
+<p class="line">So, through the Thunder comes a human voice</p>
+<p class="line">Saying, &lsquo;Oh, heart I made, a heart beats
+here!</p>
+<p class="line">Face, my hands fashioned, see it in myself!</p>
+<p class="line">Thou hast no power nor mayst conceive of mine,</p>
+<p class="line">But love I gave Thee, with Myself to love,</p>
+<p class="line">And Thou must love me, who have died for
+thee.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">R. Browning.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">There is no &ldquo;home life,&rdquo; such as we
+understand the term, in Mosul. The word &ldquo;beit&rdquo; (house) is
+the only one in the Arabic language used for describing a home. It
+would indeed be mockery to call such by the sacred name so dear to the
+hearts of English people.</p>
+<p>In a book lately published in Cairo the author, a well-known and
+clever Moslem writer, says: &ldquo;Man is the absolute master and woman
+the slave. She is the object of his sensual pleasures, a toy as it were
+with which he plays whenever and however he pleases. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb232" href="#pb232" name=
+"pb232">232</a>]</span>Knowledge is his, ignorance is hers. The
+firmament and the light are his, darkness and the dungeon are hers. His
+is to command, hers is blindly to obey. His is everything that is, and
+she is an insignificant part of that everything.&rdquo; This being the
+sentiment of every Moslem man, is it any wonder that there is no
+happiness or mutual regard in the family life? The men look upon the
+women, and treat them, as little better than brutes; then when they
+become so, turn and revile them. They keep their heels firmly planted
+on women&rsquo;s necks and then dare them to rise. A man may be as vile
+as he likes himself, but the moment he suspects one of his hareem of
+misconduct there is nothing but death, or mutilation which is worse
+than death, for the offender.</p>
+<p>A woman once came to the hospital who always insisted on keeping her
+face entirely covered with the exception of the eyes; I soon found that
+the reason of this was because her nose and lips were missing. These
+members had been cut off in a rage by an infuriated son-in-law, who
+declared that this woman had intrigued with his wife in allowing
+another man to enter the hareem in his absence. This is a
+husband&rsquo;s ordinary method of wreaking revenge on any of his women
+folk whom he suspects of being false to him. This, or death.</p>
+<p>The facility with which a man is able to divorce his wife is a great
+source of trouble to the women. They never feel secure in the hearts of
+their husbands, knowing that at any moment he may tire of them and send
+them adrift.</p>
+<p>When a woman is divorced she returns as a rule to her mother&rsquo;s
+house; but should she have no relation <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb233" href="#pb233" name="pb233">233</a>]</span>at hand to whom she
+can appeal for protection, her condition is deplorably sad.</p>
+<p>A man may divorce his wife in a fit of anger and receive her back
+the next day if he so desire; this may occur twice, but if he
+pronounces the fatal words &ldquo;I divorce thee&rdquo; three times the
+divorced wife may not be taken back till she has been married to
+another man for a time and <i>he</i> also has divorced her; <i>then</i>
+her former husband may marry her again if he wishes. This is one of the
+good (?) laws of Mohammed the Prophet, and needs no comment.</p>
+<p>When a woman is divorced the husband can claim the children if he
+desires; if not, the wife is allowed to retain them. Should she marry
+again the poor children are often left to look after themselves as best
+they can. As a rule the new husband does not wish to bear the expense
+of the children belonging to his wife&rsquo;s former husband. If,
+however, he should consent, and the two families are brought up
+together, the result is generally not conducive to peace of mind. One
+of our servants in Mosul had a little boy five years of age; having
+divorced the boy&rsquo;s mother, he looked about for another wife, and
+finally selected one who had already been divorced and was the mother
+of a boy four years old. The two boys now live together, and are a
+fruitful source of friction between husband and wife. A short time ago
+the mother came to our compound early in the morning looking
+dishevelled and angry, saying that her husband had turned her out of
+the house at midnight, refusing to admit her again. On inquiring into
+the matter we found that the root of the quarrel lay in the fact that
+the man was jealous of his wife&rsquo;s <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb234" href="#pb234" name="pb234">234</a>]</span>treatment of her own
+boy, declaring that he had only married her to look after <i>his</i>
+boy. He divorced her; but acting on our suggestion forgave, and
+reinstated her in his hareem.</p>
+<p>A short time ago a woman came to me in great distress with her tale
+of sorrow. I had known her for some months, and loved her very much.
+She was the mother of two fine boys and a girl. When the girl was about
+eighteen months old the mother became very ill. The doctor attended her
+for some days, but finally gave up all hope of her recovery. As a last
+resource, however, some stringent means were used which, with
+God&rsquo;s blessing, proved successful, and the woman began to
+recover. So near death had she been, that the neighbours came to the
+house inquiring what time the funeral would take place! The husband, a
+&ldquo;mullah&rdquo; (priest), never came near her the whole time of
+her illness, and the first news the poor woman heard on her recovery
+was that he intended taking another wife, doubtless thinking that,
+after such a severe illness, she would not be of much use to him for
+some long time.</p>
+<p>As soon as she could walk she came to tell me her trouble, and to
+ask me what I should advise her to do. I told her that, if I were in
+her place, I should leave the man altogether. This, she said, she could
+not do, as it would mean separation from her children. Finally, she
+concluded that there was nothing else to do but to go back to her
+husband and submit to his will. This she did, and I saw her there
+before we left; but such a different face greeted me to the sweet one
+of old. Misery, discontent, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb235" href=
+"#pb235" name="pb235">235</a>]</span>and anger were depicted there
+instead of content and happiness. Up to the time of her illness she had
+been in the habit of frequently coming to see me: now her husband
+forbade her to do so any more. The week before we left, however, she
+turned up again with a bad abscess on her leg, for which she gave
+continual praise to God, saying repeatedly,
+&ldquo;Alhamd&rsquo;llillah. God sent me this bad leg in order that I
+may come to you&rdquo;&mdash;her husband not objecting to her coming to
+the hospital to be treated, but only when she came to the house without
+any apparent reason.</p>
+<p>A Moslem woman has very little hope of gaining Paradise. Old
+pictures by Mohammedan artists always represent hell as being full of
+women. Their hope of gaining Paradise rests a great deal on the will of
+their husbands. Some holy men say, &ldquo;I don&rsquo;t want my wives
+in heaven. I prefer those provided by God for all good Moslems from
+amongst the angels.&rdquo; Yet, if you question the women about their
+hope for the future life, they all fervently express the belief that,
+eventually, they will have a place in Paradise afforded them.</p>
+<p>Poor, blind, misguided Moslem women of Mosul and other Mohammedan
+lands! How my heart aches for them! Will no one heed the cry of anguish
+and despair which goes up from their midst? As we think of their lives
+our cry can only be, &ldquo;How long, O Lord, how long will these
+things be?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Women are great believers in the doctrine of Naseeb or fatalism. To
+everything that comes to them they bow their heads in submission and
+say, &ldquo;Naseeb&rdquo; (fate). <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb236"
+href="#pb236" name="pb236">236</a>]</span></p>
+<p>This doctrine often leads to great neglect of children and invalids,
+the women excusing themselves by saying, &ldquo;Maktoob&rdquo; (It is
+written). It often rouses our indignation to hear this oft-quoted word
+misapplied as an excuse for wrongdoing or selfish desires.</p>
+<p>For instance, parents will enter into negotiations for the marriage
+of their daughter with a man known to be an evil liver; then, when the
+girl is suffering, maybe, for their sins, say piously,
+&ldquo;Naseeb&mdash;Min Allah&rdquo; (from God). &ldquo;Min
+Allah&rdquo; indeed! &ldquo;Min Shaitan&rdquo; (from Satan) would be
+more correct!</p>
+<p>Then, again, it is somewhat annoying to be told it is &ldquo;the
+will of God&rdquo; that your horse should develop a cough, because the
+groom neglected to cover him when standing in the rain; or, when your
+best china tea-set is smashed, you would rather not be told it is
+&ldquo;Naseeb&rdquo;!</p>
+<p>Albeit this is an annoying doctrine to the European at times, yet it
+certainly helps the Eastern woman to bear her troubles and trials, and
+it is good for her to have this at command, for she has nothing else to
+aid her. To sorrow, loss, bereavement, and all the ills that human
+nature is subject to, the Moslem answers always &ldquo;Naseeb,&rdquo;
+or, &ldquo;It is the will of God.&rdquo; Should their children die, or
+the locusts destroy the crop, it is &ldquo;Naseeb.&rdquo; Is the
+weather hot or cold, dry or moist, the remark is always the same,
+&ldquo;Naseeb.&rdquo; If the river water is filthy and they choose to
+drink it, thus contracting typhoid or one of the hundred other ills
+consequent on drinking such water, they have only to assure themselves
+that it is &ldquo;Naseeb,&rdquo; and there remains nothing more to be
+said or done. It is easier to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb237"
+href="#pb237" name="pb237">237</a>]</span>say &ldquo;Naseeb&rdquo; than
+to take the trouble to filter or boil the water for drinking.</p>
+<p>In a thousand ways this belief in fatalism is convenient to the lazy
+or careless ones, a help to the over-burdened and weary, who know no
+other succour or helper in time of need or sorrow, while it is, in some
+cases, a blasphemous libel on God, blaming Him for what is really a sin
+wilfully indulged in.</p>
+<p>As in Persia, so in Mosul, truth plays little part in the characters
+of some of the people. They have not yet learnt to value God&rsquo;s
+gift as expressed by the poet Browning&mdash;</p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;God&rsquo;s gift was that man should conceive of
+Truth</p>
+<p class="line xd20e2463">And yearn to gain it.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first">It is strange how even the most enlightened find it
+difficult to speak the truth always, and correspondingly easy to tell
+an untruth. A boy was once found out in a fault (quite a trivial one),
+but, when questioned, he absolutely denied all knowledge of it, until
+he was confronted by one who had been an eye-witness of the whole
+scene. Then only did he confess, adding, &ldquo;I said with <i>my
+lips</i> I did not do it, but in <i>my heart</i> I confessed.&rdquo;
+What can be said to people whose mind is capable of evolving such
+ideas? We often had to complain of dishonesty amongst the hospital
+women servants, especially of the cook for petty thefts, such as eating
+the patients&rsquo; food, thus causing them to go on short commons,
+unless I was there to see that each one had his or her proper quantity.
+One day I was crossing the compound before superintending the
+distribution of the evening meal to the in-patients, when, as I
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb238" href="#pb238" name=
+"pb238">238</a>]</span>approached the kitchen, I distinctly saw the
+cook helping herself most liberally to the food out of the pot. On
+remonstrating with her, she indignantly denied that she had ever tasted
+a morsel, until I made her open her mouth and reveal to the amused
+onlookers proof positive of her lies. Even then she was not ashamed,
+but only laughed at the idea of the &ldquo;khatoun&rdquo; finding her
+out.</p>
+<p>A woman will bring a child to the dispensary and swear that it is
+her child, all the time knowing that the real mother is waiting
+outside, too ashamed to be seen coming to the poor people&rsquo;s
+dispensary, but not wishing to pay the usual doctor&rsquo;s fee. Or
+some lady from a high-class hareem will dress in her servant&rsquo;s
+clothes and come to the dispensary, posing as a poor woman who cannot
+afford a piastre (2d.) for her medicine!</p>
+<p>You get so tired of always hearing lies that you begin to feel it is
+no use to question people at all. I do not wish to imply that there is
+no truth to be found in Mosul; but it certainly is a rare and, when
+found, precious virtue. It is a sad fact, too, that the natives do not
+trust or believe each other, knowing that, given the opportunity, a
+brother will cheat a brother or a son his father. Every one is
+suspicious of his neighbour. On the whole the people are honest, at
+least with the exception of the many trifling pilferings always to be
+expected amongst the servants.</p>
+<p>Some of them are rather fond of &ldquo;eating money&rdquo; entrusted
+to their care. We had two or three servants who were good at this. They
+would come to me every day with their accounts, receive payment for
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb239" href="#pb239" name=
+"pb239">239</a>]</span>same, but instead of handing over the money to
+the shopkeeper would calmly appropriate it for themselves, till one day
+the baker or butcher leaves a message at the door politely asking to be
+paid for past favours. Then the culprit is sent for, and acknowledges
+having &ldquo;eaten the money.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Another servant once tried to steal some dolls from a box lately
+received from England for distribution amongst the in-patients of the
+hospital. He had helped me unpack the box and carry the contents to the
+storeroom, pending the arrival of Christmas Day. A few days after I was
+passing this room, and hearing a rustling inside looked to see what it
+was, but seeing the door still locked thought I must have imagined the
+noise. But just as I was passing on the rustling became more distinct,
+and I went nearer to examine more closely the door, and found that,
+while the lock was still intact, the door had been lifted bodily off
+its hinges and then carefully replaced!</p>
+<p>Calling my husband, we entered the room and found a poor frightened
+man trying to hide himself under the pile of paper and sacking which
+had been removed from the box. He was absolutely shaking with fear,
+thinking that he would be bastinadoed (beaten on the feet with sticks)
+or imprisoned. He declared at first that he had come for some string,
+which he had noticed on a shelf, to mend my saddle; but finally
+confessed that the dolls had been the object of his visit. About six
+small ones were found in his pockets; he had wanted them for his
+children. We told him that if he had only asked he should have had one
+given him. I shall never forget his <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb240" href="#pb240" name="pb240">240</a>]</span>astonishment when my
+husband told him to choose the one he liked best and take it to his
+little girl. He wept for joy and gratitude.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e3049width" id="p240"><img src="images/p240.jpg"
+alt="Bread-Making" width="720" height="478">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Bread-Making</span></p>
+<p class="first">Baking-day is one to be dreaded. The process begins
+soon after midnight, when the woman arrives to prepare the flour and
+set the dough. Every woman is pressed into service: one to make the
+dough into little cakes, another to give it a preliminary roll. She
+then passes it on to her neighbour to be rolled still thinner, until
+finally the loaf is as thin as a wafer. It is then placed in the oven
+on a cushion such as is seen in the woman&rsquo;s hand.</p>
+</div>
+<p>Swearing is very largely indulged in by men and women alike; it
+seems to come as naturally to them as swimming to a duck. Originally
+the words &ldquo;wallah,&rdquo; &ldquo;yallah,&rdquo;
+&ldquo;billah,&rdquo; were used as swear expressions; but are now
+looked upon more as ejaculations equivalent to our &ldquo;good
+gracious!&rdquo; &ldquo;goodness!&rdquo; &amp;c.; the real swear words
+being &ldquo;wallahi,&rdquo; &ldquo;billahi,&rdquo; &amp;c. Some of the
+women cannot keep the expression <i>wallah</i> out of their
+conversation, though I try hard to persuade them to do so. For
+instance, a visitor comes; you remark to her on the extreme heat.
+&ldquo;Wallah,&rdquo; comes the answer, &ldquo;it is hot!&rdquo; Or you
+inquire after some member of her family. &ldquo;Wallah, she is very
+ill,&rdquo; is the reply.</p>
+<p>I was visiting one day in a Moslem house, and the old mother-in-law
+said to me, &ldquo;What has happened to X.?&rdquo; mentioning her
+daughter-in-law; &ldquo;she never swears now!&rdquo; I was indeed
+thankful for this unexpected tribute to that woman&rsquo;s efforts. We
+started an anti-swearing society amongst a few of the women; it was
+quite funny to see how they endeavoured to keep back the old familiar
+words which had been on their lips since childhood.</p>
+<p>One little boy joined with the women, and he found it hardest of
+all; but when we left he was still persevering. He learnt the Ten
+Commandments by heart, so whenever I heard him use a swear word I made
+him repeat the third commandment.</p>
+<p>The women are terribly fond of couching their denials in the form of
+oaths, as &ldquo;May my hand be <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb241"
+href="#pb241" name="pb241">241</a>]</span>broken,&rdquo; &ldquo;May I
+become blind,&rdquo; &ldquo;May my interior become dried up if I did
+such and such a thing!&rdquo; It makes me shiver sometimes to hear them
+swearing to a lie in this way; and I often tell them that if God only
+took them at their word, they would be stricken blind many times
+over.</p>
+<p>It is not an unknown thing for women to resort occasionally to
+fighting as a pastime, but I am thankful to say I have not seen much of
+it. A woman came to the Dispensary once with a fearful-looking hand:
+the thumb was about six times its normal size and had become
+gangrenous. My husband said the only possible cure was amputation; to
+this the woman would not consent. She said that a short time before she
+had been fighting with another woman, who had bitten her thumb in her
+fury. I asked this woman what she had done to her opponent.
+&ldquo;Oh,&rdquo; she said, &ldquo;I only pulled out her
+hair!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Another woman once brought me quite a handful of hair to show, which
+she declared her husband had just pulled out of her head in his anger;
+while he at the same time exhibited several ugly wounds on his hand
+caused by his wife&rsquo;s teeth! The man vowed he would divorce her,
+refusing to listen to any suggestions as to forgiveness, saying,
+&ldquo;What would my neighbours say of me if I kept for my wife a woman
+who would do that?&rdquo; pointing to the bites on his hand. However,
+in the end he did consent to take her back, being on the whole an
+amicably disposed man. Can we wonder that these things should happen
+when neither the men nor the women have ever learnt to control their
+passions? We have glanced at the lives of the Moslem women of Mosul.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb242" href="#pb242" name=
+"pb242">242</a>]</span>Can we say that they lead an ennobling,
+beautiful life? Are the home influences such as to foster a happy,
+peaceful spirit? On the contrary, we have seen that a woman deserves
+our pity and sympathy for all the sorrow she has to endure.</p>
+<p>Have we not seen that at birth she is unwelcome, as a child
+uncared-for and untaught, as a young woman imprisoned behind the veil,
+as a wife unloved, as a mother unhonoured; and when her weary life
+draws to a close she knows that she will go to her grave unmourned.
+Such in brief outline is the life of a Moslem woman.</p>
+<p>A woman&rsquo;s one place of recreation is the hammam. It is indeed
+a kind of ladies&rsquo; club; here she throws away for the time being
+all her home worries and troubles, enjoying thoroughly her few hours of
+liberty. As a rule the bath takes at least two hours, and often half a
+day, if the woman has no special demands on her time. She generally
+goes in the morning, taking with her a complete change of raiment, a
+mat to sit upon in the cooling chamber, and plenty of towels, also some
+food to be partaken of after the exertions of the bath are over. I once
+went to one of these hammams, but the heat was so intense that I could
+only stand it for a few minutes. I often wonder how ever the women can
+exist in such great heat for so long; I suppose it is because they are
+used to it. Many illnesses date from a visit to the hammam; but still
+they would not give it up for any consideration, thinking it quite
+impossible to take a bath in the house. Certainly the Turkish bath is
+much cleaner than the Persian one. In the latter a large tank is used,
+and as it costs a good deal to warm up, the <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb243" href="#pb243" name=
+"pb243">243</a>]</span>water is not changed very often. In the Turkish
+hammam each person has a tap for herself, from which flows presumably
+clean water. As a matter of fact sometimes this water has already been
+used, but only in the cheaper hammams. The most expensive baths have
+river water brought up for the purpose; in the others well water is
+used, and as this is brackish and very hard it is impossible to use
+soap, for it will not lather; therefore a special kind of earth is
+used, which is said to be very good for washing the hair with.</p>
+<p>When Judy, our woman servant, returns from the bath, she always
+comes and gives me a kiss, this being their custom, and we exchange the
+salutations usual upon any one returning from the hammam. <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb244" href="#pb244" name="pb244">244</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2.7" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter VII</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Customs of Mosul</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Wedding ceremonies&mdash;Great expense to
+parents&mdash;Method of procedure&mdash;Funeral customs&mdash;Customs
+at birth&mdash;Some other customs.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;The bridegroom&rsquo;s doors are open wide,</p>
+<p class="line">And I am next of kin;</p>
+<p class="line">The guests are met, the feast is set;</p>
+<p class="line">May&rsquo;st hear the merry din.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">S. T. Coleridge.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">We have seen that a wedding is a very expensive matter
+in Mosul, especially to parents who possess three or four daughters;
+for unless the necessary gold, jewellery, and clothing are forthcoming
+as a dowry, the marriage will never take place. For this reason a man
+with a number of daughters will begin saving for their marriage portion
+and expenses while the girl is yet a baby, and the mothers will often
+commence gathering together clothing even before the child is
+betrothed, so that they may be better prepared for the expensive event
+when it does take place.</p>
+<p>Then, too, not only is there the outlay for the dowry and clothing,
+but also for the feasting of some hundreds, it maybe, of guests during
+the seven days following the marriage. A man of very fair means in
+Mosul once told me that the marriage of his daughters cost him at least
+&pound;200 each, and as he had seven daughters the sum total required
+was not small. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb245" href="#pb245" name=
+"pb245">245</a>]</span>If this man with a good income found it hard
+work to produce the necessary cash, how much harder is it for those who
+have no settled income, or whose earnings are small. For instance, a
+native Christian whom we respected and liked very much had two
+daughters; both were betrothed and ready to be married. He was earning
+about &pound;3 a month, and had a wife and six children to
+support&mdash;how could he provide all the necessary gold and other
+ornaments for his girls? And yet, if he did not, in all probability his
+daughters would never be married. There was only one way out of the
+difficulty, and that was to borrow at high interest, crippling himself
+for many years to come, perhaps for the rest of his life. Instances
+might be multiplied, but I think enough has been said to show that
+girls are expensive luxuries in Mosul as regards their weddings! Now as
+to the &ldquo;preparations&rdquo; for the great and eventful day.</p>
+<p>When a man makes up his mind to be married, or his parents decide in
+<i>their</i> minds that it is high time their son should take to
+himself a wife, many are the consultations which take place, and great
+is the importance of the women folk concerned. They are never so happy
+as when arranging for a marriage, loving the mystery and secrecy of it;
+for it would never do for a fond mother to offer the hand of her dear
+son in marriage to the mother of a possible bride and be refused. The
+shame and ignominy would be too great; so the mother and other female
+relations of the would-be bridegroom have to go very carefully to work
+in selecting the girl and in making any proposal for marriage. Before
+the actual &ldquo;asking&rdquo; is done, the way has to be prepared by
+very careful <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb246" href="#pb246" name=
+"pb246">246</a>]</span>hints and indirect inquiries as to the
+girl&rsquo;s health, accomplishments, and dowry. If all proves
+satisfactory, then a formal proposal is made. The matter having gone so
+far, a refusal is very unusual, and, if given, is considered a great
+insult. I heard of one young man who threatened to murder all the
+relations of a girl for whom he had made proposals of marriage upon her
+parents refusing to accept his offer.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e3119width" id="p246"><img src="images/p246.jpg"
+alt="A Mosul Bride" width="476" height="720">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">A Mosul Bride</span></p>
+<p class="first">The girl in the centre of the picture is a Christian
+bride decked out in her wedding costume. The gold coins, necklaces, and
+girdle are her dowry.</p>
+</div>
+<p>I have often been asked by Moslem women to suggest some girl as a
+suitable bride either for their brother or son. On mentioning some
+girls whom I knew, their answers were something as follows: &ldquo;Oh,
+but she has a white patch on her eye,&rdquo; or &ldquo;She is too
+poor,&rdquo; or &ldquo;She has a bad temper,&rdquo; or &ldquo;She is
+not pretty.&rdquo; Their idea of beauty is that of a white, pasty, fat
+face, without a vestige of colour, except that which art applies! Of
+course, the man never sees the girl till the day of betrothal, and in
+the case of Moslems not till the actual marriage takes place. The old
+custom amongst the Christians of marrying a girl against her will is
+still extant in some villages. Sometimes it happens that a girl
+persists in her dislike to marry, even till the priest has arrived to
+tie the knot: in this case the father would bind the girl&rsquo;s arms
+and legs till the marriage ceremony was completed, when she was
+released, it being useless then for further resistance on her part.
+This is done even now in some villages near Mosul when the girl proves
+obstinate. As a rule, though, they accept their fate as
+&ldquo;Naseeb,&rdquo; knowing it is little or no use to struggle
+against custom. How often my heart aches for some poor child who is
+bound to a man old enough to be her grandfather <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb247" href="#pb247" name="pb247">247</a>]</span>or
+great-grandfather sometimes. Alas, too often old in sin as well as
+years!</p>
+<p>When the day of the marriage approaches, invitations are sent out to
+all friends and relations for the specified days of feasting. First
+comes the day for taking the bride to the bath&mdash;this is considered
+a great function; then follows a week of excitement, dancing, singing,
+feasting, all forming part of the great event. All thoroughly enjoy
+themselves, even those who have to work the hardest in preparing the
+food. The guests are expected to remain from morning till sunset. Three
+meals are provided each day, the morning one consisting of bread,
+cream, butter, fruit, &amp;c.; the midday meal is a substantial one of
+meat, cooked in various ways, rice, chicken, and vegetables according
+to the season. The evening meal is also a very heavy one, causing the
+guests to depart perfectly satisfied both with their dinner and
+themselves.</p>
+<p>During the whole of the week the poor bride has to sit in the
+reception room on a cushion specially prepared for brides, and takes no
+part in the surrounding gaieties. Each day she appears in a fresh silk
+dress, and is often covered with golden jewellery. She is not supposed
+to speak till spoken to, and the guests do not take much notice of her
+beyond the usual kiss of salutation. At meal times she is
+&ldquo;fed&rdquo; by her relations, a bride being supposed to be too
+overcome to help herself or eat without assistance.</p>
+<p>After the days of feasting are over, the bride takes her place in
+the house as &ldquo;servant&rdquo; to her mother-in-law. In a Moslem
+house the youngest <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb248" href="#pb248"
+name="pb248">248</a>]</span>and latest bride always becomes the servant
+of all for the first year of married life, or till another and younger
+one is brought to the home. Much depends on the mother-in-law&rsquo;s
+character as to the happiness or otherwise of the inmates of the
+hareem. If they wish, they can make the lives of the young wives
+perfectly miserable, or the reverse.</p>
+<p>The same custom of feasting for a certain number of days takes place
+too in connection with funerals. The guests who come to mourn sit in
+solemn silence all day long; their mourning does not lessen their
+appetite, however, for they thoroughly enjoy their &ldquo;feast&rdquo;
+of sorrow. After a death, the &ldquo;wailers&rdquo; are brought in. I
+went once to a Christian house of mourning to see these wailing women.
+It was a ghastly sight. The professional wailers sat on the ground in
+the centre of the relations and guests, and worked themselves and
+others into such a frenzy that I thought some would have fainted from
+exhaustion; slapping their knees, tearing their hair and clothes, till
+they resembled maniacs more than women.</p>
+<p>A short time ago a very sad and sudden death took place in Mosul in
+a house very close to us. We were awakened one night, while sleeping on
+the roof, by hearing the terrible wailing sounds coming from our
+neighbour&rsquo;s house. At the same time a messenger arrived in great
+haste, asking my husband to go at once to see the patient, as his
+relatives were not sure if he was dead or only in a fit. He had been
+out during the night to some Moslem religious function, and died quite
+suddenly on his return.</p>
+<p>The wailing went on in the hareem for seven days, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb249" href="#pb249" name="pb249">249</a>]</span>and
+was terrible to hear. The sound of the weird wailing of some hundred
+women is perfectly indescribable, always ending up with a piercing
+shriek which seems to rend the air and freeze one&rsquo;s blood.</p>
+<p>Being friends and neighbours, I paid daily visits to the mourners
+during that week, but did not sit amongst the guests, preferring to
+spend the time with the sisters of the deceased in a quiet room above
+the din and uproar of the courtyard. The wailing has such a hopeless
+sound, as of a lost soul in anguish. One longed for them to know of
+Jesus the Living One, and of the time when partings shall be no
+more.</p>
+<p>After death has visited a family, the whole house in which the
+departed one lived is not swept for three days: this is because they
+believe that the angel of death is still hovering near, and they fear
+lest, while they are sweeping, others of the household may be swept
+from the house by the angel. So the house becomes very dirty, the
+carpets covered with cigarette ash and ends, but nothing can be touched
+till the third day is safely passed.</p>
+<p>Amongst the Christians it is also the custom after the death of a
+relative, not to go to the hammam (bath) for six months, and for the
+men to go unshaven for at least six weeks. The women are very
+particular about not going to the hammam while mourning, as I found to
+my sorrow. Our woman servant Judy lost her father just before she
+entered our service, and she allowed a whole year to elapse before she
+could be prevailed upon to go to the bath. They are very particular,
+too, about wearing &ldquo;deep&rdquo; <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb250" href="#pb250" name="pb250">250</a>]</span>clothing&mdash;that
+is, dresses of some dark colour, not necessarily black.</p>
+<p>I am sure that the custom of burying a few hours after death is
+often the cause of many people being buried alive. I have often been
+regaled by an old woman with horrible stories of how some friends of
+hers have just escaped being buried alive. For those who providentially
+escape being entombed alive one is thankful; but what of the many who
+most certainly are condemned to this awful fate. It is too terrible to
+contemplate. In a land where no medical certificates are required, and
+where the body is carried to the cemetery almost before it is cold, how
+can it be otherwise?</p>
+<p>But to proceed to other and more pleasing customs&mdash;let us pass
+from death to life. When a child is born in Mosul, whether Moslem or
+Christian, the first idea of the parents is to protect the child from
+the baneful influence of the Evil Eye. The usual custom is to thread a
+gall, and suspend it round the neck of the infant. Moslems enclose a
+portion of the Koran in a little bag, and fasten that round the arm of
+the child or sew it on to the cap. The custom of wearing charms to
+avert the Evil Eye is very prevalent, and deeply rooted in the minds of
+the Mosul people.</p>
+<p>The kissing of hands is a very pretty custom. Children are all
+taught to do this even before they can speak or walk. Servants are
+always very anxious to kiss your hands after they have done something
+especially annoying or irritating. They make a grab for your hand, and
+kiss it before you realise what they are doing. In this way they
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb251" href="#pb251" name=
+"pb251">251</a>]</span>secure your forgiveness before the fault is
+confessed. I am getting more wary now, and prefer to hear first what
+they have done before letting them kiss my hand. It is also a sign of
+gratitude. Upon receiving any backsheesh or present, the recipient is
+always ready to kiss your hand. Sometimes, when riding through the
+city, I have had my hand grasped and kissed by some passer-by who has
+been an in-patient in the hospital, and wished to show his gratitude in
+this way. It requires a great deal of gratitude or love for a man to
+kiss a <i>woman&rsquo;s</i> hand, so, when by chance it does occur, I
+feel very much honoured indeed.</p>
+<p>There is one custom which is often the cause of a great deal of
+heartburning, even as it was in the days of Haman and Mordecai. It is
+usual for a host or hostess to rise from their seat upon the arrival of
+each guest&mdash;that is, if they desire to do honour to that person.
+As a rule this custom is most carefully adhered to, but it lends itself
+admirably to any one wishing to be rude to his guest or to shame him
+before his friends. Fortunately, this is not often the case, but when
+it does happen one feels very uncomfortable. There is one dear old lady
+in Mosul, who thinks it beneath her dignity to rise to a Feringhi. But,
+perhaps, it is excusable for her as she is a Hadji&mdash;that is, one
+who has made the pilgrimage to Mecca, and, consequently, is treated as
+an exalted being by all her friends and relations.</p>
+<p>A rather quaint and pleasing custom in Mosul is that of sending
+trays containing a dinner all ready cooked and dished to new-comers, or
+to those <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb252" href="#pb252" name=
+"pb252">252</a>]</span>returning after a long period of absence. We did
+not know of this custom when first we went to Mosul, so were very
+surprised at sunset on our second day after arrival to see two or three
+men coming into the compound carrying huge trays on their heads. They
+explained that their master, a Moslem merchant, had sent this meal,
+with many salaams and good wishes. It was a dinner large enough for
+twenty people, so we gathered together all we could find on the
+premises, assistants, catechist, and others, who had been kindly
+helping us to settle down. Spreading some Persian carpets in the
+courtyard, we sat down and thoroughly enjoyed our first Arab meal in
+Mosul.</p>
+<p>When any one is leaving the place or starting on a journey, it is
+customary for the people to send in large trays containing sweetmeats,
+cakes, and other eatables suitable for taking with you on the road.
+When we were leaving Mosul, we received quite a large number of these
+trays&mdash;so many, indeed, that at the end of our fourteen days of
+desert we still had a good many of their contents remaining. Some of
+these were made of almonds pounded and mixed with sugar; others were
+made from puff pastry sandwiched with honey: these latter were
+especially nice.</p>
+<p>Distributing food to the poor as a mark of gratitude and
+thankfulness is another of Mosul&rsquo;s good customs. After recovering
+from a dangerous illness, it is usual to make and distribute a large
+quantity of bread, baked in a special way, and flavoured with caraway
+seeds.</p>
+<p>The birth of a son and heir is also celebrated <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb253" href="#pb253" name="pb253">253</a>]</span>by a
+generous and lavish distribution of meat and bread. When starting on a
+journey, too, it is usual to give away to the poor either money or
+food. On every occasion of life which calls for gratitude to God, this
+custom of presenting offerings to the poor is carried out. One dear
+woman, a friend of mine, went even further than this. It was thought at
+one time that we should be leaving Mosul for good, the Mission being
+withdrawn. Providentially, this was over-ruled, and when the news
+arrived from England that the Mission was to be kept on, great were the
+rejoicings amongst the people. The woman mentioned above immediately
+desired to show her thankfulness to God in a very special way, so spent
+one whole day in making a large supply of small loaves of bread, not to
+distribute to the poor, but to feed the hungry, starving <i>dogs</i> of
+the streets. This by a Moslem woman was, indeed, a work of love, dogs
+being looked upon as unclean beasts. Surely she &ldquo;that loveth much
+shall be forgiven much.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Coffee-making and drinking is associated very much with life in
+Mosul. It is the custom there to give every one who comes to the house
+a cup of Arab coffee. This meant sometimes for us giving at least 200
+cups in a day. Not only those who come as social visitors receive the
+coffee, but also all who come to the house on whatever pretext, whether
+for meetings, classes, or what not. At feast times one servant is
+always told off to do nothing else but prepare the coffee for the
+guests. On each of the great feasts, such as Christmas and Easter, it
+is the custom for every one to call, Moslems <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb254" href="#pb254" name="pb254">254</a>]</span>and
+Christians alike. At Christmas the feast lasts for three days, and at
+Easter a week, the whole of which time coffee must be ready to be
+handed at once to every caller; also a tray of sweets, consisting of
+Turkish delight, almond sugar, and other Mosul-made confections.</p>
+<p>When a house is &ldquo;mourning,&rdquo; bitter coffee is given to
+all callers for six months, and on the first day of each feast for a
+whole year.</p>
+<p>I do not think I have ever visited a Moslem house, however poor,
+without receiving either a cup of coffee or some sweets. I often beg
+them not to make preparations for me, but they always insist, as their
+hospitable instincts are very strong. Indeed, more often than not, they
+set before me not only coffee or sweets, but meat, fruit, and lebban
+(sour milk).</p>
+<p>A true Arab of the desert takes about an hour to make a cup of
+coffee. First of all the coffee has to be roasted, then ground to
+powder, and, lastly, boiled. The Arabs never sweeten their coffee,
+sugar not being a commodity of the desert.</p>
+<p>I once heard the recipe for making Arab or Turkish coffee. Perhaps
+some readers may like to try their hand at making it.</p>
+<p>First roast the coffee to a rich brown, neither too light nor too
+dark, then grind it to a soft powder. Now comes the art of making good
+coffee. Half-fill the pot with cold water; bring it to boiling point.
+Throw in a handful of powdered coffee; allow it to boil; shake down and
+bring it to the boil again. Repeat this process three times, and the
+coffee is ready. Specially note: Never wash the <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb255" href="#pb255" name="pb255">255</a>]</span>pot!
+Needless to say, this last injunction I do not carry out, but the
+servants quite believe in that part of the recipe. It is only with
+great difficulty I can persuade them to wash out the coffee-pot
+occasionally.</p>
+<p>In summer, this reluctance on their part often leads to serious
+complications. The kitchen, as may be supposed, is not a very cool
+place during the hot season, consequently it suffers continually from a
+plague of flies. Dead flies are often served up in puddings and other
+dishes, to act presumably as an appetiser! Then eating requires a great
+effort. The coffee-pot seems to serve as a trap for many of these
+flies, attracted no doubt by the sugar, and there they find a coffee
+grave. Suddenly a visitor is announced, and the message is conveyed to
+the kitchen to &ldquo;Send coffee at once.&rdquo; The cook seizes the
+pot, never looking to see how many victims are struggling in the dregs
+at the bottom, adds a little freshly-ground coffee, boils it up, and
+sends it in to the visitor served in dainty little cups. The visitor
+takes one sip, and...! I will draw a veil over the sequel. A mouthful
+of dead flies is not a very palatable drink. My feelings may be better
+imagined than described.</p>
+<p>Sometimes a guest does not approve of the way the coffee is made
+(even when minus flies); if so, she is not shy, and does not hesitate
+to hand it back with a grimace, saying to your servant: &ldquo;What
+horrid coffee! why do you not make better?&rdquo; and often demands
+another cup properly made.</p>
+<p>A visit to the bread-makers may not be out of place here. It is the
+custom amongst some of the people to bake bread once a month,
+sufficient to last <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb256" href="#pb256"
+name="pb256">256</a>]</span>that length of time. Baking-day is a day to
+be dreaded. The process begins soon after midnight, when the woman
+arrives to prepare the flour and &ldquo;set&rdquo; the dough for
+rising. The whole of that day every woman on the premises is pressed
+into service&mdash;one to make the dough into little cakes, another
+gives it a preliminary roll, then hands it to her neighbour, who uses a
+smaller roller, and finally hands it on to some one else to finish it
+off. When completed, the bread is about as thin as note-paper and as
+large round as a child&rsquo;s wooden hoop. The bread is now ready to
+be baked. The fuel used for heating the oven is chopped straw and
+goats&rsquo; dung, which is burnt till the required heat is obtained;
+then these large thin pieces of bread are plastered to the sides of the
+oven, and removed as they are browned to an exact nicety. This bread is
+very nice when fresh and crisp; when stale, it is generally soaked in
+water before being brought to the table.</p>
+<p>We do not make our bread in this way. I tried it once for the
+hospital in-patients, but found it took far too much time. The daily
+baking is much more suitable when from thirty to forty people have to
+be fed daily. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb257" href="#pb257" name=
+"pb257">257</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter VIII</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Dreams and Visions</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Ezekiel&rsquo;s vision by the river Chebar&mdash;Our
+vision by the river Khabour&mdash;Rivers identical&mdash;&ldquo;A wheel
+within a wheel&rdquo;&mdash;Babylonish emblem of divinity&mdash;Origin
+of the cherubim&mdash;Dream of a woman suffering from
+cataract&mdash;Effect of dream on her character&mdash;Watch and chain
+recovered by means of a &ldquo;faked&rdquo; dream&mdash;Illustration of
+the doctrine of Kismet or Naseeb&mdash;&ldquo;Ghosts&rdquo; in our
+compound&mdash;Atmosphere of ghosts bad for fowls.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<p class="first">&ldquo;O dreamer, dream thy dream, and dream it
+true.</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Sir Lewis Morris.</span></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Did not Heaven speak to men in dreams of old?&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Lord Tennyson.</span></p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line xd20e2463">&rdquo;... The vision of my soul</p>
+<p class="line">Has looked upon its Sun and turns no more</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1108">To any lower light.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Sir Lewis Morris.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Dreams and visions have a great influence on the
+Eastern mind. They believe most firmly that God often speaks by means
+of these agencies, using them as a warning of impending danger, or as a
+voice of instruction.</p>
+<p>Ezekiel was no exception to this rule, for we read in the words of
+his prophecy, &ldquo;That the heavens were opened, and I saw visions of
+God.&rdquo; This vision was given to him as he stood by the river
+Chebar in the land of the Chaldeans. The river Chebar is none other
+than the Khabour, over which we have passed more than once in our
+&ldquo;journeyings oft.&rdquo; When <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb258" href="#pb258" name="pb258">258</a>]</span>on our way back to
+England we crossed this river, and as we sat near its banks, even as
+Ezekiel did of old, we too were vouchsafed a &ldquo;vision of
+God.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>We had travelled through a weary stretch of waterless desert that
+day, and were rejoicing in the fact that our camping-ground for the
+night was by the banks of a river&mdash;the Chebar. Only those who have
+journeyed for days through a parched-up desert land can tell the joy
+with which a river is sighted. We experienced something of that joy on
+the evening when we saw water for the first time for two or three days.
+We pitched our camp as close to the river as possible, and, sitting at
+our tent door, prepared to enjoy to the full the beauties before us.
+Looking up I saw in front of me a glorious sight. I quickly called my
+husband, and together we stood and watched this wonderful vision. The
+sun was sinking as a ball of fire behind the river, when suddenly from
+its centre there arose beautiful prismatic lights. These gradually
+resolved themselves into the form of a huge wheel, each spoke of the
+wheel being of a different colour, merging gradually and almost
+imperceptibly into the next, as in the rainbow. Within this
+&ldquo;wheel&rdquo; was another and smaller one, also composed of the
+same prismatic hues. The outer circle of each wheel was formed by a
+band of bright opaque light. On the top of these wheels was a visionary
+form resembling the beginning of another wheel, but it was too
+indistinct for me to say what definite shape it possessed. At either
+side of these wheels was a large wing, as it were overshadowing the
+wheels; these were also of a bright white. The whole formed a most
+wonderful and never to be <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb259" href=
+"#pb259" name="pb259">259</a>]</span>forgotten sight, and we felt
+indeed that this was a vision of God.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e3253width" id="p259"><img src="images/p259.gif"
+alt="A Wonderful Vision." width="394" height="321"></div>
+<p>While in Mosul my husband had received a letter from a gentleman in
+England, asking him to keep a look-out for any such phenomenon as this.
+On reaching home it was interesting to find on good authority that the
+sight we had seen on the banks of the Khabour was one of historical
+interest. The form of the wheels is almost identical with the emblem
+which the Babylonians adopted to represent Divinity. On the same
+authority I learnt, too, that in all probability a vision similar to
+this was the origin of the cherubims. It is believed by an expert on
+the subject that the whole of the &ldquo;vision&rdquo; is caused by
+atmospheric influences, the sun acting on the particles of frost in the
+air, thus forming the prismatic colours. Be this as it may, the result
+was truly marvellous, and we were thankful that we had been privileged
+to see &ldquo;the heavens open,&rdquo; revealing this vision of God.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb260" href="#pb260" name=
+"pb260">260</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The whole spectacle could not have lasted more than five minutes,
+but the sky retained its blaze of colour for about a quarter of an hour
+after; then darkness covered the heavens.</p>
+<p>The natives of Mosul are great believers in dreams, and accept them
+as good or bad omens. A short time ago a Moslem woman came to the
+Dispensary suffering from double cataract. She had been quite blind for
+many years, and was very anxious for an operation, saying if only she
+could have enough sight to sweep the compound she would be satisfied,
+as then she could earn her livelihood. The doctor, after examining her
+eyes, told the woman that he could not promise her a good result from
+the operation, as her eyes were not healthy. However, as she was
+absolutely blind, it was worth while to try, and perhaps she might see
+sufficiently afterwards to find her way about. Accordingly she was
+admitted to the Hospital to await her time for operation. She was a
+very affectionate woman, and seemed to be gifted with great powers of
+intuition. When I went to the door of the ward, even before I spoke,
+she always called out, &ldquo;There&rsquo;s my khatoun!&rdquo;
+Sometimes I crept in quietly just to see if she would know I was
+present; she almost invariably did, and sitting up in bed would listen
+intently, and then say to one of the other patients, &ldquo;Is not the
+khatoun here?&rdquo; Then when she felt my hand, she would grasp it and
+say, &ldquo;I knew it, I knew it; I <i>felt</i> here&rdquo; (pointing
+to her heart) &ldquo;that my khatoun was in the room!&rdquo; She was
+such an excitable woman that my husband feared that she would do
+something foolish either at the time of the operation or after. He
+warned her that <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb261" href="#pb261"
+name="pb261">261</a>]</span>if she did not keep quiet she might lose
+her eye altogether; but as the fateful day approached she became more
+and more nervous. One morning, however, she appeared quite calm, and
+hastened to tell us the reason of her peace of mind. During the night
+she had seen a vision which had quieted all her fears and made her
+trustful and believing.</p>
+<p>In her dream she seemed to be walking in the desert, where she met a
+mullah, who immediately began to revile and curse her. While he was
+thus engaged the woman saw a form coming towards her which she knew to
+be that of our Lord (Jesus the Living One, as He is called in Arabic).
+He began to speak gently to the woman, asking her why she was weeping;
+she replied by telling our Lord that the mullah had been cursing her.
+In her dream she then <i>saw</i> (although blind) that our Lord turned
+to the mullah and rebuked him for cursing the woman. Then turning to
+the wondering woman, He said, &ldquo;Do not weep, my daughter, for the
+English doctor is going to give you sight in a few days,&rdquo; and
+then He left her. She awoke firmly convinced that this was a special
+revelation from God through Jesus our Lord to assure her that her
+eyesight was to be restored. From that time she was perfectly calm and
+quiet, and remained so the whole time she was in the hospital. The day
+before the operation she was again warned that she might not see any
+better after; but she smiled and said, &ldquo;To-morrow I shall
+see!&rdquo; Her faith was rewarded, as the operation was successful,
+and after two or three weeks she went out with very good vision in one
+eye, and she is waiting for our return to have the other operated upon.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb262" href="#pb262" name=
+"pb262">262</a>]</span></p>
+<p>My husband was once travelling &ldquo;chappa&rdquo; (post) in Persia
+from Yezd to Kerman, when one evening he found to his great sorrow that
+he had lost his gold watch and chain. Both were very valuable to him on
+account of their associations, so he was very sad at the thought of
+losing them. The same night he met another Englishman who was returning
+to Yezd. He told him of his loss, and asked him to make inquiries along
+the road, offering a reward to any one who would bring back his watch
+and chain. His friend promised to do all he could, and, calling his
+servant, explained to him about the loss, and told him to keep a sharp
+look-out for any news of the lost goods. This servant was a very smart
+man. The next morning they met a camel caravan on the road to Kerman,
+and the servant went up to the driver and said to him&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Oh, my noble brother, may your kindness never grow less; my
+sleep has been troubled last night by dreams of you.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;<i lang="fa-latn">Estakfarullah!</i>&rdquo; (God forbid),
+says the camel-driver. &ldquo;Why was my lord&rsquo;s sleep disturbed
+by dreams of me, who am not worthy?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes; I saw in my dream that you stooped and picked up
+something.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Then your dream was wrong,&rdquo; hastily interposed the
+camel-driver, &ldquo;for I have picked up nothing.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;And lo! in my dream,&rdquo; continued the wily servant,
+&ldquo;I saw that the thing which you picked up was worthless, only a
+cheap thing which will bring you no gain.&rdquo; The camel-driver here
+looking sad, the servant continued: &ldquo;But the owner of that
+worthless thing is very anxious to find it, as although of <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb263" href="#pb263" name="pb263">263</a>]</span>no
+value in money, yet he cherishes it as a thing he loves.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;But I told you,&rdquo; repeats the camel-driver, &ldquo;that
+I never picked up anything.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Then in my dream,&rdquo; continues the servant, carefully
+ignoring the reiterated denial of the camel-driver, &ldquo;I saw you
+glance at this useless object in your hand and then place it inside
+your <i>aba</i>&rdquo; (cloak).</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No, no,&rdquo; cries the driver, &ldquo;I never picked it
+up.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;So if you will let me show you where it is, I can relieve you
+of this worthless object.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>After a little more parleying of this sort, the camel-driver
+produces my husband&rsquo;s watch and chain, and receives in return a
+small backsheesh. The servant, highly delighted with himself and his
+sagacity, smiled as he pockets in imagination the promised reward of
+five <i>tomans</i> (&pound;1). The camel-driver confessed afterwards
+that he was so taken aback at the idea of his deeds being revealed in a
+dream to this man that he would not have kept the watch at any
+cost.</p>
+<p>Needless to say the &ldquo;dream&rdquo; was only a faked one,
+manufactured to work on the superstitious mind of the simple
+camel-driver.</p>
+<p>In Mosul the chief of the Seyyids once told the doctor a story
+relating to a remarkable dream. It was as follows. Two men once called
+on a mullah to question him regarding a matter which had been troubling
+them. The cause of their dispute was this. On going to their work each
+day these men passed a ladder leaning against a wall. One of the two
+always avoided going under lest it should fall and kill him; while the
+other said, &ldquo;No, I will not run from danger, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb264" href="#pb264" name="pb264">264</a>]</span>for
+whatever Allah has decreed must be. If it is written that I am to be
+killed by the ladder, I shall be.&rdquo; So the two friends, after
+having spent much time in arguing this knotty question, decided to lay
+the matter before a mullah and leave the decision to him. The mullah
+listened to them both, but told them that such a serious question
+needed much thought. He appointed a day for them to return and hear his
+verdict. After their departure the mullah fell into a sleep, and in his
+sleep he dreamed. In the dream he beheld a beautiful boy, the son of a
+king whom his soul loved exceedingly; then later he met a stranger, who
+told him that he (the mullah) was to cause the death of the boy he
+loved so much. The mullah, filled with indignation, repudiated the
+idea, saying that he loved the boy too much to do him any harm.
+&ldquo;Nevertheless,&rdquo; said the stranger, &ldquo;it must be, for
+Allah has decreed that the boy is to meet his death through you, and
+what is written is written.&rdquo; The old mullah returned to his house
+troubled and sad at heart, but determined that he would do nothing that
+could in any way bring disaster to the boy. Still dreaming, the mullah
+received a summons to visit the young prince. Remembering the words of
+the stranger, he took with him nothing that could in any way injure the
+boy, contenting himself by taking with him one gift only&mdash;an
+apple. The boy received the mullah in his beautiful island home, and
+the two enjoyed some blissful hours of converse together.</p>
+<p>Finally, ere saying farewell, the old man with extended hands
+presented the apple to the boy, who gladly accepted it, and proposed
+eating it at once. The mullah, taking a penknife from his inner pocket,
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb265" href="#pb265" name=
+"pb265">265</a>]</span>peeled the apple, and returned it on the point
+of the knife to the young prince, who, boylike, grasped it eagerly. In
+taking the apple the point of the knife pricked the finger of the lad,
+with the result that blood poisoning set in, and in a short time the
+beautiful boy lay dead. The mullah in his sorrow wept aloud, and as he
+wept he awoke. With humble heart and head bowed in submission, he gave
+glory to Allah.</p>
+<p>On the day appointed the two men returned to hear the verdict of the
+wise mullah. He received them kindly, but sorrowfully, assuring them
+that it made not the slightest difference whether they walked under the
+ladder or not.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;For,&rdquo; said the old man, &ldquo;if it is written that
+you are to be killed by a ladder falling upon you, it must be so, you
+cannot escape. What Allah has written must be fulfilled. His designs
+cannot be frustrated.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>This doctrine, taught to the old mullah by means of his dream, is
+very prominent in the minds of all Moslems to-day.</p>
+<p>When in Persia we had an Indian servant who was a Mohammedan. He
+told us that three times on successive nights our Lord had appeared to
+him in a dream, in the form of an old man with a long white beard. So
+struck was he with the persistency of the dream, that he went to an
+English clergyman, asking to be taught the Christian religion.</p>
+<p>The women in Mosul have often told me of wonderful things which they
+declared were going to happen to me, as had been revealed to them in
+dreams. Even now I receive letters from some of <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb266" href="#pb266" name=
+"pb266">266</a>]</span>these women in which they say, &ldquo;We see you
+every night in our dreams.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The first women in-patients in our so-called hospital in Mosul had
+to be content with a kind of outhouse for their ward. The only place we
+could find for them which would be hareem was a large room which we
+used as a wood-house. This my husband had whitewashed and thoroughly
+cleansed and disinfected. The first unfortunate woman to be put in this
+ward (?) was a very quiet, gentle Moslem woman, who came for an
+operation. Her mother came with her to look after her, and these two
+were alone in their none too comfortable quarters.</p>
+<p>Two or three days after the operation, these women declared that in
+the night a huge form of dragon-like appearance rose from the ground at
+their side!</p>
+<p>Some weeks later this ward was occupied by a little Jewish girl who
+had been terribly burnt, her mother and grandmother looking after her.
+There were also two or three other women in the ward. One morning very
+early, word was brought to us that all the inmates of that room had
+been terribly frightened in the night. On going out to see what had
+happened, we found them all lying in the passage, having carried their
+bedding out of the room. They were looking very unhappy and frightened,
+and requested to be allowed to leave the hospital at once, saying they
+would not pass another night in that awful place. Then they all began
+to recount their experiences of the night at the same time, so it was
+with great difficulty we could find out what really had happened. It
+seems that soon after midnight <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb267"
+href="#pb267" name="pb267">267</a>]</span>they were talking to one
+another, when suddenly they saw two soldiers sitting on the edge of
+their bedsteads. Terribly alarmed, they asked the men however they came
+to be there&mdash;did they not know it was &ldquo;hareem&rdquo;? At
+first the soldiers remained silent, but afterwards told the women that
+they had come from a village about twelve miles off. That they had been
+told in a dream to come to the <i lang="fa-latn">beit hakeem
+Engelisi</i> (house of the English doctor). In obedience to this
+command they had come. Then, as suddenly as they had arrived, they
+disappeared. The women, of course, were all fearfully alarmed, some
+believing that they were real soldiers, others that they were genii in
+the form of soldiers. They immediately left the room, carrying their
+bedding with them, and spent the rest of the night in fear and
+trembling. The next morning we made a very careful examination of the
+roof, to see if by any possible means soldiers could have entered our
+compound. We found that next door was the house of the head of the
+soldiers, and it was possible that some of his guard might have found
+their way over the walls and down to our house.</p>
+<p>Nothing, however, was ever proved; but no one could ever be induced
+to use that room again, the women declaring that it was haunted by evil
+spirits. Finally, we made it into a hen-house; but the fowls and
+turkeys all sickened and died, so there evidently was something very
+wrong with the atmosphere of that room! Our first attempt at a
+women&rsquo;s ward was certainly a failure, but &ldquo;it is an ill
+wind that blows nobody any good,&rdquo; and so good came out of this
+evil. As the women would not use the haunted (?) <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb268" href="#pb268" name=
+"pb268">268</a>]</span>room, other accommodation had to be found, so we
+gave up our house for them, while we moved into the one next
+door&mdash;the room which was neither good for human beings nor for
+feathered fowls being now used as a wood-house.</p>
+<p>Once when travelling in the desert, a spot was pointed out to us as
+being the abode of Jinns and Genii. This spot is much abhorred by the
+muleteers, as they believe that any one camping on that ground is
+liable to be overtaken by a terrible death. The enchanted ground is
+encircled by some landmarks, and it is said that any one going to sleep
+within that magic circle will at once be visited by the Jinns
+inhabiting the spot, who will immediately come and suck his blood till
+he is dead. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb269" href="#pb269" name=
+"pb269">269</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2.9" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter IX</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Manners and Superstitions in Mosul</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Characteristics of inhabitants of Mosul&mdash;Social
+habits&mdash;Love of drink&mdash;An effectual
+cure&mdash;Gambling&mdash;Tel Kaif: a story of Uncle Goro&mdash;The
+Angel of Death and other titles&mdash;Difficulties over name and
+age&mdash;Some superstitions&mdash;Effect of scent on women&mdash;Birds
+of good omen&mdash;Thieves&mdash;Sheep-killing&mdash;Sheikh
+Matti&mdash;An angel&rsquo;s visit&mdash;Medical
+superstitions&mdash;Cure for hydrophobia.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<p class="first">&ldquo;Nothing has more effect upon the mob than
+superstition.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Quintus Curtius.</span></p>
+<p>&ldquo;To be superstitious is a crime.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">Anon.</span></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Sickness and sorrow come and go, but a superstitious soul
+hath no rest.&rdquo;</p>
+<p class="signed"><span class="sc">R. Burton.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The natives of Mosul are, as a rule, a very
+simple-hearted folk. They are easily amused, easily taken in, and as
+easily roused to passion. They are, on the whole, good-tempered and
+patient, and, considering the absolute lack of self-control in their
+method of bringing up, they give way far less to their passions than
+might be expected.</p>
+<p>They dearly love social habits, and spend much time in company,
+telling and listening to stories, smoking, and drinking coffee.
+Unfortunately, they do not confine their drink to coffee, and these
+social habits often lead to a great deal of drinking. Arak is the
+favourite refreshment at these times, and is <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb270" href="#pb270" name=
+"pb270">270</a>]</span>indulged in by both Christian and Moslem alike.
+It is a pure spirit, and is made by the Christians and Jews of Mosul,
+and sold by them to the Moslems. No ceremony is complete without the
+arak bottle. At weddings, funerals, dinner parties, at each and every
+season of life, it is thought necessary to provide this fire-water. I
+am sorry to say that the women also drink, but not to such an extent as
+the men.</p>
+<p>It is, of course, considered a great sin for a Moslem to drink
+either wine or spirit, as both have been forbidden in the Koran: but
+their love for the arak is stronger in many cases than their love of
+the Koran. A Mosul Moslem woman told me a short time ago that she did
+not think there was one Moslem man in Mosul who did not drink either
+wine or arak. I hope this is an exaggeration, but the tendency to be
+less ashamed of the drinking habit and to indulge in it more freely is
+growing more and more. It is sad to think that the Christians of the
+city are the manufacturers and vendors of spirit and wines, and that
+they are responsible for introducing them into Mosul.</p>
+<p>A story is told of a Sultan of Turkey who, desirous of putting a
+stop to the ever-increasing drink traffic, made a law by which every
+Moslem found the worse for drink should be cast into prison. The first
+morning after the new law had come into action, a Moslem was found
+drunk lying in the street, incapable of walking to his home. He was
+immediately taken to prison, and allowed to sleep off the effects of
+the drink. When he awoke, great was his surprise to find himself in the
+interior of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb271" href="#pb271" name=
+"pb271">271</a>]</span>a prison. On being taken before the judge, he
+pleaded &ldquo;Not guilty,&rdquo; and said that he had been suffering
+for some days from a terrible pain in his tooth, and yesterday had gone
+to the hakeem (doctor) to obtain medicine to relieve the pain. The
+doctor had told him that the best cure for his pain was to drink a
+little brandy, so he had followed his advice, with the result that he
+fell asleep and only awoke to find himself in prison. The judge then
+commiserated the man on having such bad pain, but assured him it was
+easily remedied. Calling to one of his servants, he ordered him to go
+at once and fetch the barber, who acted as dentist to all such
+sufferers. The prisoner assured his excellency the judge that it really
+did not matter, the pain was better. &ldquo;But,&rdquo; said the judge
+sympathetically, &ldquo;it may come back.&rdquo; The barber was brought
+and told to examine the man&rsquo;s mouth. Finding no sign of decay, he
+assured the judge that the teeth were sound. The judge began to revile
+the dentist, saying, &ldquo;You call yourself a dentist and do not know
+which is the tooth causing this man pain. Find it, and pull it out at
+once.&rdquo; Trembling, the dentist took his forceps and extracted a
+back tooth. &ldquo;Let me see,&rdquo; cried the judge. &ldquo;Why, that
+is not rotten; what do you mean by pulling out a good tooth? Pull
+<i>the</i> rotten one out at once.&rdquo; Then the dentist again
+operated on his unwilling victim, and a second time the judge upbraided
+him for not drawing the right tooth, and ordered him to go on till he
+had found the one that was decayed. The wretched prisoner, feeling he
+could not bear to lose any more teeth, <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb272" href="#pb272" name="pb272">272</a>]</span>called out that it
+was all a lie: he never had had any toothache, and only drank brandy
+because he loved it, and promised never to touch it again. The judge
+smilingly bade his prisoner begone, warning him, however, that next
+time he offended all his teeth might have to come out.</p>
+<p>Closely associated with drinking is the gambling habit. This too,
+alas! is very prevalent in Mosul. In almost every house card-playing
+forms the chief pastime both in the hareem and amongst the men, and, as
+a rule, they play for money. Enormous sums of money are lost and won in
+this way, and, unfortunately, those in good positions are the ones who
+profit most by this gambling habit. One lady was the possessor of many
+beautiful jewels, diamonds, pearls, &amp;c., and I was told that she
+had won them all by gambling.</p>
+<p>We are always very glad to take part in the social customs of the
+people when neither drinking nor gambling is part of the programme, and
+I, at least, certainly very much enjoy a dinner served <i lang=
+"fr">&agrave; l&rsquo;Arabe</i>, with its attendant native
+entertainment. The after-dinner story-telling is very amusing when you
+have mastered the language sufficiently to be able to follow the drift
+of the tale. Shortly before leaving, we gave a farewell dinner to some
+of our friends, and, after dinner, entertained them with fireworks,
+while one of the guests amused us all by recounting stories, some of
+which were very interesting. One was as follows:&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;There is a village near Mosul called Tel Kaif, in which all
+the inhabitants are Christians. They are a very original set of people,
+differing altogether <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb273" href="#pb273"
+name="pb273">273</a>]</span>from the Christians of Mosul in language,
+dress, and customs. They consider they are quite the most clever and
+important people under the sun, and this idea is apparent in all their
+actions. Many years ago there lived in Tel Kaif a very clever and wise
+man called Uncle Goro. If any one was in trouble he immediately went to
+this man for advice; if any were sorrowful, it was to Uncle Goro they
+looked for consolation; were any sick, again it was Uncle Goro alone
+who could heal them. In fact, Uncle Goro was looked upon by the
+admiring villagers as their one hope and stay in times of need. One day
+a cow belonging to the village felt very thirsty. Now, the water supply
+of Tel Kaif is not very good, the villagers being dependent upon a
+large pool of rain-water, which sometimes dries up during the
+long-continued season of drought. Doubtless this cow did not approve of
+drinking dirty rain-water, so, while seeking for other means of slaking
+her thirst, she espied near the doorway of a house a large earthen
+water-pot. Into this she looked longingly, but her horns at first
+prevented her from reaching the water. However, after a little careful
+manipulation and perseverance, she managed to insert her head into the
+jar. When she had satisfied her thirst, she tried to withdraw her head,
+but found she could not, so there it had to remain, while the
+bewildered villagers looked on in helpless astonishment. At last they
+decided to appeal to their wise man, so one went off in search of him.
+When he arrived on the spot and beheld the cow with her head in the
+water-jar, he considered thoughtfully for <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb274" href="#pb274" name="pb274">274</a>]</span>a while, and then
+gave his advice in the following learned manner.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Oh, my children,&rdquo; he cried, &ldquo;here is such a
+simple matter, and yet you could not find a way out of the difficulty.
+I am surprised that my fellow-men should be so ignorant.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Then they all crowded round Uncle Goro, beseeching him out of his
+great wisdom to tell them what to do.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;First,&rdquo; said Uncle Goro, &ldquo;you must cut off the
+cow&rsquo;s head, then break the water-pot and take out the
+head!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>This brilliant suggestion was at once put into practice, the owner
+of the cow being the only one who was not quite so sure of the
+exceeding greatness of the wisdom of Uncle Goro. When the deed was
+accomplished and the head extricated from its awkward position, the old
+man stood and proudly addressed the assembled crowd who had flocked to
+hear his words of wisdom. &ldquo;My beloved children,&rdquo; said he,
+&ldquo;a day will come when your old Uncle Goro will die, and then what
+will you do when you have no one to settle such difficult matters as
+these for you? Pray to God that your Uncle Goro may long be spared to
+advise and counsel you.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>A rather pretty custom exists in Mosul which gives people titles
+according to their work, or any special characteristics belonging to
+them. For example, the butcher is called &ldquo;the father of
+meat&rdquo;; the baker, &ldquo;the father of bread.&rdquo; In the
+hospital, when I am giving orders for the diet list, we hardly ever
+speak of the patients by name, but according to their disease, as
+&ldquo;Aboo&rdquo; (father) liver abscess,
+&ldquo;Aboo-mai-abiyud&rdquo; <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb275"
+href="#pb275" name="pb275">275</a>]</span>(father of cataract). One of
+the assistants in the hospital was named &ldquo;The Angel of
+Death&rdquo; by a poor little girl who was brought to the doctor a mass
+of burns. It was the duty of this assistant to dress the terrible
+wounds of the child every day, and though as gentle as a woman, he
+necessarily pained her a great deal&mdash;hence the term &ldquo;Angel
+of Death.&rdquo; The women are designated in the same way as the men,
+only substituting &ldquo;mother&rdquo; for &ldquo;father,&rdquo; as
+&ldquo;Em haleeb,&rdquo; milk-woman; &ldquo;Em saba&rsquo;
+saba&rsquo;een,&rdquo; mother of seventy-seven (or centipede), this
+last simply referring to a girl suffering from hysteria.</p>
+<p>This was an interesting case which was in the women&rsquo;s hospital
+for some weeks. The patient was a young woman about sixteen years of
+age. She was under the delusion that she had swallowed a
+&ldquo;saba&rsquo; saba&rsquo;een&rdquo; (a horny centipede, measuring
+some seven or eight inches, common in Mosul). She declared she could
+not eat anything, for every time she swallowed, the saba&rsquo;
+saba&rsquo;een opened its mouth and ate the food just partaken of! She
+absolutely refused to touch anything of her own accord, so we had to
+force food down her throat. Two or three women would hold her hands and
+feet while I fed her with a spoon. As time went on she became worse
+instead of better, and was always beseeching my husband to operate on
+her and take out the saba&rsquo; saba&rsquo;een. After a time he
+consented to give her an an&aelig;sthetic and operate. On the day
+appointed she was taken to the theatre and given a whiff of chloroform,
+while the doctor made a slight incision in her skin. This was stitched
+up, and she was shown her wound and assured that the doctor had cut her
+and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb276" href="#pb276" name=
+"pb276">276</a>]</span>found nothing. After this she was much happier,
+and was soon well enough to leave the hospital.</p>
+<p>Women never know their age in Mosul. On dispensary days each woman
+is required to give her name and age. The first difficulty is over the
+name. Many do not know their surnames at all. When asked, &ldquo;What
+is your father&rsquo;s name?&rdquo; they say, &ldquo;How do I
+know?&rdquo; and then add with a laugh, &ldquo;Say Bint Abdulla&rdquo;
+(daughter of a servant of God). Abdulla is often a very convenient name
+when the parentage is uncertain.</p>
+<p>With regard to their age, women are quite hopeless. I have often
+seen an old lady, bent double with the weight of many years, come into
+the dispensary.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, mother, how old are you?&rdquo; I ask her.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;How old am I? How do I know, my daughter?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Do you think you are fifteen?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, I may be.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Are you twenty yet?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Perhaps I am,&rdquo; replies the fair damsel of eighty.
+&ldquo;I know I was born two years before the year that the locusts ate
+all the corn.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>As to how many years ago the locusts destroyed the crop she has not
+the remotest idea.</p>
+<p>Or another woman will come, certainly not more than twenty or
+twenty-five, the mother of a baby in arms. On being asked her age she
+replies, &ldquo;About sixty&rdquo;! The natives never have any idea
+when their birthdays are, but keep their name-days instead. Thus
+amongst the Christians all Johns will keep the feast of St. John as
+their feast-day, and so on.</p>
+<p>Parents have a convenient way of forgetting the date of the birth of
+their daughters. A girl who is <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb277"
+href="#pb277" name="pb277">277</a>]</span>not betrothed will remain
+twelve or thirteen for much more than one year; for when she has passed
+fourteen or fifteen years she is no longer considered young, and not
+very likely to be betrothed at all if her real age is known.</p>
+<p>The natives of Mosul are very superstitious; more especially,
+perhaps, is this true of the women. One curious superstition they have
+with regard to scent. Now an odour which is filthy and dangerous, such
+as may be <i>felt</i> in most of the houses, is not at all injurious
+from their standpoint, but a sweet-smelling scent is an abomination to
+the women. If by any chance I have been using anything in the way of
+scent (though as a rule I am very careful not to), the first thing I
+see on entering a room is that the women all immediately apply their
+handkerchiefs to their olfactory organs. At first this custom appears,
+to say the least, not too polite; but when you realise \ what it means
+to them, you understand and excuse them. They firmly believe that a
+sweet smell brings sickness and sorrow&mdash;that it is equally fatal
+to mothers and young children&mdash;hence the great fear of anything in
+the way of scent. One day our reception-room was full of women who had
+come to visit me. Suddenly a visitor was announced (a native of the
+country, but not of Mosul); immediately all the women crowded into one
+corner, burying their heads in their chuddars. I could not make out
+what had disturbed them till I discovered that the new-comer was
+strongly scented. She was left severely alone by all the others, who
+kept as far away as possible from her, some even leaving the room,
+fearing lest evil should overtake them. <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb278" href="#pb278" name="pb278">278</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Another day I went to visit a little patient of my husband&rsquo;s
+in whom he took a great interest. This little boy was the spoilt
+darling of his parents, the father especially idolising him, watching
+over him carefully lest any harm should befall him. Great was his
+consternation and distress when it was found that an operation was
+necessary to save the life of the boy. When the little chap was
+convalescent I went to see him. After talking to the mother some time
+in another room, she suggested our going to see the boy. No sooner had
+I appeared at the threshold of the door, when the boy buried his face
+in his hands, calling out, &ldquo;Oh, you smell, you smell!&rdquo; I
+assured both the mother and the boy that I had no scent of any kind on
+me, but the boy would not be pacified, and continued crying out,
+&ldquo;Go away&mdash;you smell!&rdquo; As he was still weak, I thought
+I had better depart, as excitement was bad for him. When visiting
+amongst the women it is better not to use scented soap, as they detect
+even that sometimes!</p>
+<p>Birds have a good many superstitions connected with them. Last year,
+while we were waiting for the decision of our committee regarding the
+future of the mission in Mosul, some women informed me that &ldquo;good
+news was coming.&rdquo; Good news meant to them that the Mission was to
+be kept on. On asking how they knew, they told me they had just heard a
+bird singing which is supposed never to raise his voice except as the
+harbinger of good tidings. Storks are looked upon as omens of good
+luck. These birds return every spring to Mosul, hatch their eggs, and
+migrate in early autumn. The natives of Mosul always hail their return
+with great joy, especially if they nest <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb279" href="#pb279" name="pb279">279</a>]</span>on their roofs. Some
+will even go so far as to put baskets on the roofs, hoping that the
+storks will be attracted by them and make them their home for the
+summer. They agree with Longfellow in his love of storks, as expressed
+in his poem&mdash;</p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line xd20e3462">&ldquo;By God in heaven</p>
+<p class="line">As a blessing, the dear white stork was
+given.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first">If there had been any truth in this superstition, we
+ought to have been very prosperous; for at one time we had no less than
+three families of storks on our roof. Personally I think they are not
+altogether too desirable, for when sleeping on the roof they are apt to
+become very noisy companions. I do not think I like to be laughed at by
+these birds. In the early morning they stand close by one&rsquo;s bed,
+throw back their heads till they rest on their backs, and then laugh
+aloud at the idea of any one sleeping when once dawn has appeared.</p>
+<p>The common name for storks in Mosul is &ldquo;the thieves,&rdquo; as
+they sometimes steal small articles of clothing hanging out to dry,
+such as handkerchiefs; and no one would ever dare to go to the nest to
+hunt, lest they should disturb the birds and cause them to fly away.
+These birds are rather a convenience sometimes for the washerwoman:
+when blouses disappear it is easy to lay the blame on the
+&ldquo;thieves.&rdquo; They are almost as useful as the proverbial
+&ldquo;cat.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Our servant Judy is a little woman full of queer superstitious
+ideas. While in Mosul I received the sad news of the death of my
+father: poor Judy was so distressed lest by over-much mourning I should
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb280" href="#pb280" name=
+"pb280">280</a>]</span>tempt God to take my husband too. As dressmaking
+is rather primitive in Mosul I decided to have some things dyed black.
+Judy would not hear of such a thing, saying that only widows must wear
+dyed clothes, and that if I wore dyed dresses for my father, she was
+sure something would happen to my husband.</p>
+<p>Another thing she never would do, and that is to step over our feet!
+In the summer evenings we used to sit in our verandah, which was rather
+narrow, and if by chance we should place our feet on a hassock in front
+of us there remained no room for any one to pass. I could not make out
+why Judy would never pass that way when it was necessary to enter the
+room at our back. At last she told me that if she stepped over our
+feet, she would be in danger of &ldquo;cutting our life,&rdquo; and
+that if we died it would be her fault. After this I often tried to make
+her step over my feet, by blocking her pathway, but she never would, so
+strong was her belief that by so doing she would cut short my life!</p>
+<p>It is surprising how ignorantly superstitious some of the
+better-class people are. A wife of a very wealthy Christian merchant in
+Mosul had a child who suffered terribly from sore eyes. She brought him
+to the dispensary for some time, but finding that the treatment pained
+the child and made him cry, ceased to bring him. We heard afterwards
+that she had resorted to the following superstitious method of
+healing.</p>
+<p>A sheep was bought, killed, and opened: while the blood was still
+hot the head of the child was inserted into the middle of the
+sheep&rsquo;s body and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb281" href=
+"#pb281" name="pb281">281</a>]</span>allowed to remain there about
+fifteen minutes. Could any treatment be more revolting and disgusting
+than this? and yet these people, rich and influential members of Mosul
+society, really believed that by doing this their child&rsquo;s eyes
+would be cured. Needless to say it had not the desired effect, and
+months afterwards they again brought the child to the dispensary, and
+having learnt their lesson by experience, were content to leave the
+child in the English hakim&rsquo;s hands, with the result that after a
+couple of months&rsquo; daily treatment the eyes were quite healed.</p>
+<p>I do not know what virtue is supposed to exist in the killing of the
+sheep or goat, but it is a custom very much in vogue in Mosul. On our
+return from Beyrout, after having been absent three months, a live goat
+was brought out into the desert to meet us, and the moment we alighted
+from our carriage this poor creature was slaughtered right under our
+eyes. In Persia the custom amongst the Armenians at a wedding feast was
+for a sheep to be killed just as the bride and bridegroom were stepping
+over the threshold of their new home. It was not considered lucky if
+the bride did not put her foot into the blood as she passed. In Mosul,
+too, I believe a sheep is sometimes slaughtered at weddings in this
+way, but I have never seen it done.</p>
+<p>When a wife is desirous of becoming a mother, there are various
+superstitious methods to which she may resort, but perhaps the
+favourite one of all is that connected with Sheikh Matti. This is a
+monastery situated some twelve hours&rsquo; ride from Mosul,
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb282" href="#pb282" name=
+"pb282">282</a>]</span>on the side of a lonely mountain. The woman
+makes a pilgrimage to this place, and is then told that she must spend
+a night in the solitary chapel there. While she sleeps an angel will
+visit the building, and if her request is to be vouchsafed her, will
+place an apple by her head. If the angel desires to be especially kind
+to the woman, he will place two, or even three apples near her, the
+number of apples indicating how many children God is going to honour
+her with. Strange to say, these angel visits do not take place unless
+provoked by a fair amount of backsheesh!</p>
+<p>There are a good many superstitions regarding medical treatment of
+diseases and accidents, but these, I believe, are fast dying out in the
+face of European learning and skill. The people are learning by
+experience how much better are the English methods than their own. For
+instance, it used to be the common custom for those suffering from
+fever to go to the mullah, who would lay his hands on the
+patient&rsquo;s head while reading a few verses from the Koran. If the
+fever did not go at once, well, it was the fault of the fever, not of
+the mullah. I fancy fever patients are beginning to prefer English
+medicines rather than to trust to the laying on of hands by the mullah.
+When any one has been bitten by a mad dog, which, considering the
+number of street dogs, is of very rare occurrence, he goes at once to a
+sheikh, who will give him an antidote. This consists of a date from
+which the stone has been taken, and into which the sheikh has spat two
+or three times to fill up the gap caused by the removal of the stone.
+Upon eating this, the man <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb283" href=
+"#pb283" name="pb283">283</a>]</span>is supposed to be free from all
+fear of the development of hydrophobia.</p>
+<p>These are merely a few of the superstitious customs found in Mosul
+to-day. Had we time or space they might be multiplied many times over,
+but enough, I trust, has been said to awaken love and sympathy in our
+hearts for these simple folk, whose minds are so easily influenced and
+guided by these useless and often degrading</p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Heart-chilling superstitions, which can
+glaze</p>
+<p class="line">Even Pity&rsquo;s eye with her own frozen
+tears.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Coleridge.</span> <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb284" href="#pb284" name="pb284">284</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2.10" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter X</h2>
+<h2 class="main">The Yezidees</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Gratitude to the
+English&mdash;Persecutions&mdash;&ldquo;Devil-worshippers&rdquo;&mdash;Sun
+and fire worship&mdash;Priesthood&mdash;A visit to Sheikh
+&Acirc;di&mdash;Peacock wands&mdash;A sacred shrine.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Whoever thou art, if thy need be great,</p>
+<p class="line">In the Name of God, the Compassionate</p>
+<p class="line">And All-Merciful One&mdash;</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1108">For Thee I wait.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Whittier.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">The Yezidees, or, as they are commonly called,
+&ldquo;devil-worshippers,&rdquo; are a very remarkable tribe living in
+the near vicinity of Mosul. Very little is really known as to their
+religious beliefs, and whether they worship the devil or only fear him,
+has never yet been discovered by Europeans.</p>
+<p>These curious people are very favourably disposed towards the
+English, as many years ago the British representative in Mosul was able
+to assist them very materially. The Mohammedans have always been very
+bitter against this people, and have done all in their power to
+exterminate them. A former Pasha at one time captured the high priest
+of the Yezidees, whose name was Sheikh Naser; he somehow managed to
+escape, substituting in his place a priest under him in authority. The
+priest never revealed this fact, and bore with resignation the tortures
+and imprisonment inflicted upon him. The Yezidees applied to
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb285" href="#pb285" name=
+"pb285">285</a>]</span>Mr. Rassam, who was the British Vice-Consul at
+Mosul, and he obtained the release of the priest by paying a large sum
+as ransom money. This debt was faithfully repaid, and since that time
+the Yezidees have cherished very grateful memories of the English.</p>
+<p>Many years ago these Yezidees were a very powerful tribe. They had
+two principal strongholds, one in the mountains lying to the west of
+Mosul, and the other only twenty-four hours&rsquo; journey to the
+north. By means of continual attacks and massacres at the hands of the
+Kurds, their population has been reduced considerably, only about
+one-third remaining of their original number.</p>
+<p>Mohammedans are always very bitter against any sect which is
+supposed to have no &ldquo;Book.&rdquo; The Yezidees, coming under this
+category, receive little mercy from them, and for centuries have been
+exposed to persecutions from these their oppressors. Of late years the
+Yezidees have seen the uselessness of rebelling against their fate,
+and, acknowledging their defeat, are patiently bearing their
+misfortunes.</p>
+<p>These so-called devil-worshippers recognise one Supreme Being, but
+apparently do not offer any prayers directly to Him. The name of God is
+often on their lips in the form of oaths, but that of the evil spirit
+is never to be heard. So far do they carry this superstition, that not
+only will they not use the word Shaitan (Satan), but any word beginning
+with &ldquo;sh&rdquo; is also shunned by them. Then, again, such a
+veneration have they for Satan, that it is prohibited amongst the
+Yezidees to utter any word containing the letter <span class="Arabic"
+lang="ar">&#1588;</span> (shin), being the first letter of the
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb286" href="#pb286" name=
+"pb286">286</a>]</span>Arabic word for Satan. Thus they have to find
+other words to express such commonly spoken of objects as the sun,
+river, water-melon, &amp;c., as they each begin with the prohibited
+letter. Layard, in his Travels amongst them, tells of one instance
+illustrating this superstition. He was standing in the midst of a large
+crowd of Yezidees gathered to take part in their yearly feast, when he
+espied a boy climbing a tree at the apparent risk of his neck. He says,
+&ldquo;As I looked up I saw the impending danger, and made an effort by
+an appeal to the chief to avert it. &lsquo;If that young
+Sheit&mdash;&rsquo; I exclaimed, about to use an epithet generally
+applied in the East to such adventurous youths. I checked myself
+immediately, but it was too late; half the dreaded word had
+escaped.&rdquo; He goes on to say that the effect was instantaneous, a
+look of horror spreading over the faces of all present. Fortunately for
+him, he was a favourite amongst the Yezidees, and so they allowed it to
+pass. So great is the horror of this letter, that they have often
+killed those who use it wilfully. When speaking of the devil they do so
+reverently, calling him the &ldquo;mighty angel.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The symbol of their religion is the &ldquo;Malek el Taous,&rdquo; a
+peacock, and is held in great reverence by them. Satan is said to be
+the head of the angelic host, and he is supplied with seven archangels,
+who minister to him and exercise great influence over the world; they
+are Gabriel, Michael, Raphael, Azrail, Dedrail, Azrapheel, and
+Shemkeel. Our Lord is also counted amongst the angels, though not one
+of these seven, and is acknowledged to have taken upon Himself the form
+of man. They, in common with <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb287" href=
+"#pb287" name="pb287">287</a>]</span>the Mohammedans, do not believe in
+His crucifixion; but declare that He ascended to heaven just before
+that event took place, some saying that the angel Gabriel took our
+Lord&rsquo;s place on the Cross, while others say Judas was the real
+victim. They are looking forward to the second coming of Christ and
+also to the reappearance of the Imam; this latter being also the
+Mohammedan&rsquo;s hope. Their patron saint is one called Sheikh
+&Acirc;di, who is supposed to have lived many years before Mohammed;
+but very little is known of his history.</p>
+<p>They reverence the sun, and are in the habit of kissing the object
+on which its first rays fall. Fire as a symbol is also connected with
+their worship, the disciples frequently passing their hands through the
+flame, kissing them, and then rubbing them over their faces. They have
+four orders of priesthood, which is hereditary, and consists of the
+Pirs, Sheikhs, Cawals, and the Fakirs.</p>
+<p>The Pirs (from a Persian word meaning old man) are the most
+reverenced next to their great sheikh or head of the sect. These are
+believed to possess the power not only of interceding for their
+adherents, but also of curing disease and insanity. They are
+<i>supposed</i> to lead a life of great sanctity, and are in
+consequence much looked up to by the people.</p>
+<p>The Sheikhs come next in order of rank. These are supposed to know a
+little Arabic, as their work is to write the hymns which are chanted at
+their religious services. They guard the tomb of Sheikh &Acirc;di,
+bring fuel to keep up the holy fire, and provisions to those who dwell
+within the shrine.</p>
+<p>The third rank of priesthood is perhaps the most <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb288" href="#pb288" name=
+"pb288">288</a>]</span>active of all. These are called Cawals or
+preachers, and it is their duty to go from village to village teaching
+the doctrines of the Yezidees. They are all musicians, being taught to
+sing when very young; they also perform on the flute and tambourine,
+both of these instruments being looked upon as holy. Before and after
+playing they often kiss their instruments, and pass them to the
+audience for them to do likewise. They dress as a rule in white and
+wear black turbans, while the sheikhs always wear nothing but white.
+They are generally venerable-looking men with long beards. They act as
+emissaries for the sheikh, and yearly go forth and collect the
+revenues. Their emblem of office is a wand, on the top of which is
+perched a brazen peacock, and they boast with pride that never have
+their enemies been able to capture one of these staves. They relate how
+on one memorable occasion a priest, being chased through the desert by
+Arabs, in the heat of the pursuit stopped his mare, descended, and
+buried the precious badge of office; then, marking the exact site for
+future reference, resumed his flight. Having escaped with his life, six
+months later he managed to recover the buried staff, creeping down by
+night into the desert from his mountain shelter. Now why should they
+place such a high value on these emblems? A possible solution was given
+me by the Rev. Dr. St. Clair Tisdall, who recalled to my mind an old
+Mohammedan tradition that it was the peacock who admitted Satan into
+the garden of Eden. This would strengthen the suspicion that the
+Yezidees really do worship the evil one.</p>
+<p>The lowest order in the priesthood are called <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb289" href="#pb289" name=
+"pb289">289</a>]</span>Fakirs. These wear coarse dresses of black or
+dark-brown canvas, which reach only as far as the knees. Their office
+is to perform all the menial work connected with the tomb of Sheikh
+&Acirc;di, sweeping and cleaning the sacred buildings, trimming and
+lighting the holy lamps. These lamps are offerings made by pilgrims who
+have visited the tomb in times of danger or sickness.</p>
+<p>A yearly sum is subscribed for the oil necessary for the lamps and
+for the support of the priests. At sunset each evening these lamps are
+lit, and give the appearance of a multitude of stars glittering on the
+side of the mountain; for not only are the lamps placed in the shrine
+and walls of the courtyard, but they are also scattered about on rocks
+and ledges and in the dark corners of the woods. As the priest goes
+from lamp to lamp lighting each one, men and women pass their hands
+through the flame and smear their foreheads, and those who have
+children do the same to them. This reverence for fire reminds one of
+the Parsees of Persia, whom these people in many ways resemble.</p>
+<p>Unfortunately I was unable to visit these interesting villages, but
+I hope to do so on a future occasion. We had intended to spend a month
+amongst them during the summer of 1906, the sheikh having extended a
+cordial invitation to us. My husband accordingly went up to
+reconnoitre, and see if there was any place possible either to stay in
+or to pitch our tent. He found, however, that it was hardly a suitable
+place for a summer holiday, as the climate was not very satisfactory,
+besides which it was difficult to find a place for the tents; so we
+decided we would not go that <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb290" href=
+"#pb290" name="pb290">290</a>]</span>year at any rate. Both my husband
+and the men with him were quite ill for a few hours after visiting
+Sheikh &Acirc;di, so they were not anxious to return. The natives say
+that this illness is caused by drinking the water, but that the effect
+passes off after a few days, when one has become accustomed to the
+water.</p>
+<p>My husband, however, much enjoyed his visit amongst these strange
+people, and in writing of that time he says:&mdash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;These interesting people dwell in the mountains round about
+Mosul, the ancient Nineveh. They are ruled over by a sheikh, who claims
+to be able to put some ten thousand armed horsemen in the field. On
+account of their suspected devil-worship they are detested by Moslems
+and Christians alike. The Turks have more than once endeavoured to
+exterminate them; but, entrenched in their mountain fastnesses, they
+are very hard to overcome.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;When in Mosul their sheikh called on me and asked me to pay
+him a visit up in his mountain home. Thus I was able to see their homes
+for myself, also the sacred shrine, hidden away in the mountains, where
+their reputed founder (Sheikh &Acirc;di) lies buried, from whom it
+derives its name.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The Yezidees, like the Druses of Mount Lebanon, are very
+reluctant to discuss their religion, and it is said that death is the
+penalty for any one among them who reveals the truth concerning what
+they worship.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;On paying a visit to their sacred shrine (Sheikh &Acirc;di),
+I found it hidden in the hollow of thickly-wooded mountains, and
+composed of two large compounds, the inner compound containing the
+shrine <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb291" href="#pb291" name=
+"pb291">291</a>]</span>in a church-like building with a newly-built
+steeple. On the right side of the entrance porch is the figure of a
+huge serpent graven in the stone of the building, with its head
+uppermost. This serpent is kept blackened daily with charcoal by the
+two or three old monks who live in the shrine. Upon inquiring the
+meaning of this symbol, the monk told me it was graven there to remind
+the worshippers to remove their sandals from off their feet, as the
+ground around the shrine is holy. If any should be careless or wicked
+enough to disobey, it was said that they would be bitten on the heels
+by some of the snakes that were said to infest the place.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The steeple rises immediately from the room in the church
+that once contained the body of their founder, Sheikh &Acirc;di. This
+sheikh was a great Mohammedan teacher who many centuries ago used to
+preach and teach in Damascus. He gathered around him many disciples,
+and it is said he was accustomed to vary the monotony of his teaching
+by drawing a circle on the ground, and, placing therein himself and
+some favourite disciple, would enable the latter to hear and understand
+the teaching of another famous mullah speaking in far-away Baghdad.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;This Sheikh &Acirc;di some years before his death retired to
+this place in the mountains, two days&rsquo; journey from Mosul, and
+there he was visited by many, as his fame spread abroad, and in this
+place he died and was buried. The Yezidees claim that, ere he died, he
+forsook Mohammedanism and instituted a new religion. The Moslems,
+however, reverence his memory, and say that the Yezidees, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb292" href="#pb292" name=
+"pb292">292</a>]</span><i>after</i> his death, started a new religion
+of their own.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;In the church there was to be seen a pool of water, said by
+them to be used as a baptistery, and little else but bare walls. My
+guide assured me it used to look very different, but fifteen years
+previously the Turks had captured the place and destroyed all they
+could lay hands on. On the roof near the steeple are two stones, facing
+east and west, said to be used as prayer-stones, the Yezidees praying
+as the <i>first ray</i> of the rising sun appears, and as the <i>last
+ray</i> of the setting sun departs, and use these stones as indicators.
+This, again, is interesting, as (according to Dr. Tisdall) it is a
+curious fact that Mohammedan tradition avers that it is alone at these
+two times daily that the devil has power to intercept the prayers of
+the faithful, and they are, therefore, to be scrupulously avoided by
+all true Moslems.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;The Yezidees are loath to venture into the city, but a few
+have already commenced to attend the Mission Dispensary. They are
+easily recognised by their costume, and by the fact that no Yezidee is
+allowed to wear any garment exposing the breast. One of these patients
+informed me that when he wanted to worship he went to the priest
+(cawal), paid him a small fee, and was placed in a small room, the
+filthier the better, and made to sit on the floor. The priest would
+then sit in front of him and make him imagine himself to be in Paradise
+(the Eastern idea of Paradise&mdash;lovely garden, flowing stream,
+trees laden with fruit, houris, &amp;c.). If (and it is a big
+&lsquo;if&rsquo;) his statement was true, it <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb293" href="#pb293" name=
+"pb293">293</a>]</span>would point to their priests having some
+knowledge of hypnotism, but the Yezidees will say anything to mislead
+an inquirer.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;We had a little Yezidee boy in hospital with his mother. He
+had been successfully operated upon for stone, but developed jaundice
+and gradually sank. One evening, ere his mother took him back to her
+village, a message was brought to us imploring my wife and me to wash
+our hands in the water our servant brought us; the same water was then
+to be given by the Yezidee mother to her dying boy that he might drink
+and live!</p>
+<p>&ldquo;One longs to be able to tell them of Him who is the Water of
+Life: but they have a language of their own, and understand but little
+Arabic.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Will not my readers pray that the Mosul Mission may be
+strengthened and properly equipped; that the Gospel may be preached to
+these poor Yezidees, as well as to their Mohammedan neighbours; and
+that they may learn to love Him who alone has power to cast out
+devils?&rdquo; <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb294" href="#pb294" name=
+"pb294">294</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2.11" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter XI</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Travelling in the Desert</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Monotony of desert travelling&mdash;A puppy and a
+kitten&mdash;Tragedy&mdash;Accident by the river Euphrates&mdash;Riots
+in Mosul&mdash;Robberies and murder excited by love of gold.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Of moving accidents by flood and field,</p>
+<p class="line">Of hairbreadth &rsquo;scapes....</p>
+<p class="line">The shot of accident, nor dart of chance</p>
+<p class="line">Could neither graze nor pierce....&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Shakespeare.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Travelling in the desert is apt to become rather
+monotonous when each day goes by with nothing to mark it from the
+preceding one, so that when some event out of the common does take
+place it is quite exhilarating. For instance, once during our mid-day
+halt, which happened to be on the site of a newly-deserted Arab
+encampment, we heard a cry, and looking about found a wee puppy about
+two days old. This puppy afforded us amusement for at least two days,
+much to the amazement of our muleteers. We wrapped it in flannel,
+placed it in the sunshine to try and instil some warmth into its chilly
+body, and presently we had the satisfaction of hearing its wailing
+gradually cease as the sunshine penetrated the flannel. We managed to
+keep life in the poor little beast for two or three days, but, as milk
+is <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb295" href="#pb295" name=
+"pb295">295</a>]</span>scarce in the desert, it was impossible to feed
+it properly.</p>
+<p>One evening we arrived at an Arab encampment, and thought it would
+be kinder to leave the poor puppy with one of the Arabs, who are
+supposed to be fond of dogs. So we persuaded our servant to take the
+puppy and deposit it in one of the tents. He did so very reluctantly,
+thinking he might be shot at for venturing near after dusk. However, he
+crept up quietly and placed the puppy just inside one of the tents.
+Immediately the owner demanded who was there, but Aboo (our servant)
+fled without waiting to answer. We heard the Arab using some strong
+language, and then, catching sight of the poor puppy, he took it up and
+threw it out into the desert. We could hear the little thing squealing
+and crying, so my husband went to rescue it once more from an untimely
+end. He found it on top of a rubbish heap, brought it back to our tent,
+and we tried again to warm and soothe it. The next day, however, the
+little spark of remaining life was quenched. So the short story of this
+little forsaken waif ended in a sad tragedy, and my husband undertook
+the dismal duty of committing its body to the deep waters of the
+river.</p>
+<p>Another day one of our escort galloped up with great excitement to
+show us a kitten he had just found in the desert&mdash;the poor little
+mite was so thankful to see a human being again, and had evidently been
+left behind in much the same manner as the puppy when the Arab tribe
+was migrating.</p>
+<p>These are small episodes of the desert which help <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb296" href="#pb296" name="pb296">296</a>]</span>to
+break the monotony. I may perhaps be allowed to misquote the well-known
+lines of S. Gregory:&mdash;</p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;A little thing is a little thing,</p>
+<p class="line">But &lsquo;excitement&rsquo; in little things</p>
+<p class="line">Is a great thing&rdquo;&mdash;in the desert.</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first">On one occasion we passed an Arab lying on his back
+and covered with his <i>aba</i>, the native cloak worn by all classes.
+We heard afterwards that it was a case of murder; that the man had been
+dead three days, and only then had been found by his sons, who were out
+searching for their father. Hastily covering him with one of their
+cloaks, they had rushed off to try and find the murderer and avenge
+their father&rsquo;s blood. We met them soon afterwards, and they told
+the whole story to our escort.</p>
+<div class="figure xd20e3657width" id="p296"><img src="images/p296.jpg"
+alt="Travelling in Winter" width="720" height="338">
+<p class="figureHead"><span class="sc">Travelling in Winter</span></p>
+<p class="first">A large caravan leaving Isphahan for Yezd while snow
+is lying on the ground. The man who is holding the horse&rsquo;s head
+was our servant for a year. He is an Armenian, and is now working as an
+assistant in the Isphahan Hospital.</p>
+</div>
+<p>In the preceding chapters we have seen how often the cry of
+&ldquo;Wolf, wolf!&rdquo; was raised when there was no wolf, till we
+began to think that the much-talked-of robbers of the desert did not
+exist at all, or, if they did exist, would not dare to touch a European
+caravan. However, we soon learnt to our cost that this was not the
+case.</p>
+<p>Two years ago we were travelling from Mosul to Aleppo, and had
+almost reached our destination when we met with the following
+adventure.</p>
+<p>Having reached the end of our stage one day, we had encamped within
+a stone&rsquo;s throw of the river Euphrates, just outside the town of
+Beridjik. Our tent was pitched beneath a lovely spreading tree, under
+which ran a sparkling stream on its way from the mountains to the
+river. We thought what an ideal camping-ground it made, and apparently
+the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb297" href="#pb297" name=
+"pb297">297</a>]</span>same thought entered the minds of some others,
+only from a different standpoint. All round us were signs of the
+industry of the villagers in the form of huge stacks of corn freshly
+reaped, now waiting for the threshing time to begin. Ere we retired for
+the night we were strolling by the stream and amongst the corn, where
+we noticed two men sitting in the field, who gave us the evening
+salutations as we passed by. We did not attribute any importance to
+this fact, as it is not unusual for the villagers to set watchmen to
+guard their corn during harvest time and afterwards, till the grain is
+safely housed.</p>
+<p>So, committing ourselves to the care of Him who never slumbers or
+sleeps, we retired to our tent, hoping for a good night&rsquo;s rest to
+prepare us for the journey of the morrow. Our &ldquo;ideal
+camping-ground&rdquo; I found to have at least one great
+disadvantage&mdash;a disadvantage common to all grounds which are used
+by flocks of goats and sheep for their resting-places. That night these
+&ldquo;pilgrims of the desert&rdquo; were particularly active, and gave
+me no peace or chance of sleep till the early hours of the morning;
+then at last, worn-out with the unequal warfare, I fell asleep. I could
+not have been sleeping long when I was awakened by a movement on the
+part of my camp bedstead. Sleepily I decided in my mind that our donkey
+had loosened his tether and was trying to pay us a friendly visit.
+Often in the night some animal would get loose, and rub himself against
+our tent ropes till he had succeeded in rooting up one peg, when he
+would go and practise on another. Thinking this was the case now I
+promptly fell asleep again, only to be <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb298" href="#pb298" name="pb298">298</a>]</span>reawakened in a short
+time by the same sensation. This time I was quite awake, and in an
+instant flashed my electric torch round the tent, just in time to see a
+man decamping by the door. I roused my husband (whose sleep is never
+disturbed by pilgrims of the night), and told him what had happened. He
+immediately rushed out and gave the alarm to the camp. Unfortunately it
+was a very dark night, and nothing could be seen a yard ahead, so the
+robbers had ample opportunity for beating a retreat. Our tent was some
+little way from the village, so my husband returned to the tent to put
+on some more garments before going to interview the head-man of the
+village, who is always supposed to be responsible for the safety of
+caravans. When he came to look for his clothes, the only article he
+could find was one shoe, the thieves having cleared the tent of
+everything available, even to our tooth-brushes! Not only did they
+clear off everything from the tent, but also emptied a large box which
+was standing outside the tent, and also took a large valise containing
+my husband&rsquo;s portmanteau and my &ldquo;hold-all.&rdquo; Had they
+been content with these, we should never have known of their nocturnal
+visit till the morning; but in their desire to secure the small carpet
+which lay in the middle of the tent, they awoke me, hence the movement
+of my bed which twice disturbed my sleep. We felt there was nothing to
+be done till daybreak, so retired once more to rest.</p>
+<p>As soon as dawn appeared some of the caravan party rode off in
+different directions to see if they could find any trace of the
+thieves, but of course they had disappeared long ago under cover of the
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb299" href="#pb299" name=
+"pb299">299</a>]</span>darkness. The search party, however, brought
+back a few garments picked up along the road, which the thieves had
+evidently dropped in their hurry when the alarm was given. Our escort,
+a soldier from Beridjik, was sent back to the town to notify the
+Government officials of the robbery. In a short time the governor of
+the place rode out with six or seven other officials, all evidently
+much disturbed in their minds lest they should get into disgrace for
+allowing any harm to come to a European caravan. The first thing the
+governor did was to send for the head-man of the village and have him
+bound and beaten. I was so sorry for the poor man, who had a flowing
+white beard. I could not bear to witness his beating, so retired to the
+tent, and tried to shut out the sound as well as the sight of the old
+man&rsquo;s sufferings. As a matter of fact I do not think the beating
+was a very severe one, but the victim made the most of it.</p>
+<p>This proving of no avail, they all set out for the neighbouring
+villages, and spent the whole of that day and the next scouring the
+country for the thieves, returning each day at sunset and renewing the
+search early next morning. My husband accompanied them the first day,
+and was very much amused by the behaviour of some of the villagers at
+sight of the officials. At some villages they would find nothing but
+women, the men all having fled at the news that soldiers were coming.
+They found plenty of other stolen goods buried in the ground of the
+huts, but none of our belongings. In one village a man confidentially
+whispered to one of the soldiers that <i>he</i> knew where the stolen
+goods were. On being told to lead the <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb300" href="#pb300" name="pb300">300</a>]</span>way to the place, he
+led them all to a large field in which were some hundred or more large
+corn-stacks, and said that the goods were in one of those. I expect he
+much enjoyed his little joke, for after turning over a dozen or so of
+these ricks under the scorching sun, the soldiers gave up the task as
+hopeless. All efforts proving unavailing, we had perforce to proceed on
+our journey, managing as best we could till we reached Aleppo, where we
+were able to replenish that which was most lacking in our wardrobe. The
+fame of our adventure preceded us to Jerusalem, where a month or two
+later we heard a most exaggerated account of our state when we entered
+Aleppo.</p>
+<p>My husband went at once to our consul on reaching Aleppo, laying
+before him the whole story. Fortunately for us, Mr. Longworth was a
+most energetic and painstaking man, having great influence with the
+Government officials. He asked us to write out an estimate of our
+losses, which he presented to the Vali, assuring us he would either
+make the Government pay full compensation or produce the lost goods.
+After six months of endless work and worry, Mr. Longworth sent my
+husband a telegram saying that compensation to the full amount had been
+given. We were very thankful to our consul for his unceasing energy in
+the matter, and sent him our very grateful thanks. Thus happily ended
+No. 1 of our chapter of accidents. When we think of what &ldquo;might
+have been&rdquo; that night with those wild men of the desert in our
+tent while we were sleeping, our hearts go up with great thankfulness
+to God, who ever watches over His children, <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb301" href="#pb301" name="pb301">301</a>]</span>and
+who can keep them as safely in the deserts of Mesopotamia as in the
+homeland.</p>
+<p>The two men we had noticed sitting amongst the corn had probably
+been hired for the purpose of robbing us, but the real culprit was
+suspected afterwards to have been one of the leading men of
+Beridjik&mdash;in fact we were told that he was a member of the
+&ldquo;town council.&rdquo; Doubtless he wished to procure for himself
+and his hareem some European clothing, without the expense of buying
+it.</p>
+<p>Another peril from which in God&rsquo;s mercy we were delivered had
+its origin in Mosul.</p>
+<p>The Vali, in obedience to orders from Constantinople, endeavoured to
+register every woman in Mosul. To accomplish this it was necessary to
+find out the number and &ldquo;write&rdquo; a list of every woman in
+each house. Moslems and Christians alike rose in revolt at the idea of
+their women being &ldquo;written,&rdquo; as it appeared to them
+contrary to all the laws of God and Mohammed that such a thing should
+be. The whole town was in an uproar, the shops were shut, no business
+was done in the sook (bazaar), and men congregated everywhere, talking
+angrily and making ugly threats. This went on for five days; such a
+thing had never been known before. Sometimes, in times of trouble, work
+has been suspended for three days, but no one could remember the sook
+being shut for such a length of time as five days.</p>
+<p>The Christians began to be very much alarmed for their safety, as it
+was rumoured that, unless the Vali gave way, at the expiration of the
+fifth day a general massacre of Christians would take place. The French
+convent was guarded by soldiers; our <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb302" href="#pb302" name="pb302">302</a>]</span>agent wired to the
+Consul-General at Baghdad for a like guard for the English, which
+happily, however, was not needed. When my husband was in the house I
+did not feel at all nervous, but if he was called out to see a patient
+after dark I certainly felt very anxious till he returned; for all
+around us was heard the continual firing of guns and pistols, and I
+pictured to myself the possibilities and probabilities of some of those
+stray bullets. &ldquo;Alhamd&rsquo;llillah!&rdquo; nothing happened,
+and we realised again once more that the traveller&rsquo;s God
+<i>is</i> able to keep, as expressed in those incomparable words
+commonly known as the Traveller&rsquo;s Psalm.</p>
+<p>On the evening of the fifth day the governor recalled his order for
+the names of the women to be written, and all was quiet once more, at
+least outwardly. For some time, however, a feeling of unrest was
+abroad, several murders taking place that week, one of which still
+remains wrapt in mystery. A Moslem enticed a Jew into the country on
+the pretext of having some work for him to do; he then made the man dig
+a grave; after which he stabbed him, and threw the body into the grave
+made by the victim&rsquo;s own hands. The reason of the murder is
+unknown.</p>
+<p>One evening we were having dinner, when in rushed my husband&rsquo;s
+chief assistant, in a great state of excitement, to say that his
+brother had been stabbed in the sook, and they had brought him to our
+outer compound. My husband immediately went out and found the young man
+with a wound in his thigh. Had it been a little higher up the result
+would probably have been fatal, but <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb303" href="#pb303" name="pb303">303</a>]</span>happily it was a
+comparatively trivial wound, and a few stitches and a week&rsquo;s rest
+soon put him right again; but naturally Daoud (the name of the victim)
+was very much alarmed, and it was some time before he quite recovered
+his nerve and could walk through that sook again. It seemed such an
+absolutely meaningless assault, that we could only hope it was a case
+of mistaken identity. Daoud had been an assistant for over a year, and
+as far as he knew had not a single enemy in the town.</p>
+<p>Matters of private dispute and jealousy are often settled by means
+of the revolver. An Armenian doctor, a short time ago, was shot when
+riding home from visiting a case. He was passing under a dark archway,
+when suddenly he heard bullets whizzing and became aware that he was
+the target. His horse was so badly hit that he was afraid it could not
+recover, but fortunately he himself escaped with only a slight graze or
+two. He attributed the motive of this attack to private grudges borne
+against him by some of his professional brethren.</p>
+<p>There is in Mosul an Armenian woman, whose husband was a doctor who
+had been celebrated for one special kind of operation. On his death his
+widow thought she might as well continue her husband&rsquo;s practice,
+as she had often assisted him with the operations. Accordingly she set
+herself up amongst the many quack doctors of Mosul. Many of her
+operations were successful, while the results of a still greater number
+remain in obscurity. Her charges were tremendous; no matter how poor
+her patient, she would do nothing till a very large fee had been paid.
+In this way she made a rich harvest <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb304" href="#pb304" name="pb304">304</a>]</span>while no European
+doctor was in the city, but after our arrival I am afraid her income
+was considerably lessened. Upon our departure from Mosul I imagine she
+again started her lucrative profession of grinding money out of the
+poor, for we heard not long ago that she had been stabbed five times
+while walking in the streets one evening.</p>
+<p>Robberies are very common in Mosul. Almost every evening may be
+heard on all hands sounds of shooting, telling of houses being visited
+by robbers. Fortunately, so far, they have not favoured us with a
+visit, and I sincerely hope they never will. One evening we were
+sitting quietly in the verandah when a woman came rushing in from the
+women&rsquo;s hospital compound, saying that there were three men on
+the roof. We all rushed out, armed with anything we could lay hands on,
+and made a dash for the roof on which the men had been seen, but no
+sign of them could be found. One of our servants climbed on to the top
+of the wall connecting our house with our neighbour&rsquo;s, flashing
+his lantern all round in his endeavours to see any trace of the
+supposed thieves. Excited voices were at once heard asking &ldquo;Who
+is there?&rdquo; &ldquo;Why do you throw a light here?&rdquo; &amp;c.;
+and the lantern-bearer found to his horror that he was illuminating
+with his lamp the whole of the hareem of our next-door neighbour, who
+were all sleeping on the roof, the time being summer. His descent was
+much quicker than his ascent, as he was in deadly fear of being shot by
+the irate owner of the hareem.</p>
+<p>As a rule thieves only think it worth while to go after gold. Silver
+is not accounted of any value in <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb305"
+href="#pb305" name="pb305">305</a>]</span>Mosul. The natives,
+especially perhaps the Christians and Jews, always have a great deal of
+gold in their houses, and in consequence live in terror of the robbers
+coming to relieve them of it.</p>
+<p>Shortly before we left I heard of a very sad case of robbery and
+murder. A young Christian girl, who had just been married, was awakened
+one night by a man roughly forcing the gold bracelets from her wrist,
+holding at the same time a revolver at her head, and telling her if she
+made a sound he would shoot her dead. For a time she suffered in
+silence, but an extra sharp wrench from the rough hands of her
+tormentor made her cry out in pain. Her cry roused her husband, and he
+immediately made a dash for the robber, who calmly turned the revolver
+at the man&rsquo;s head and shot him dead. Thus the bride of only a few
+days&rsquo; duration was left a widow. Another day two women belonging
+to one of the leading Christian families were returning from an early
+service at their church, when they were attacked by a Moslem man, who
+tore the gold coins from their heads and necks. The terrified women
+could hardly reach their own homes, so stunned were they by the harsh
+treatment of the robbers. The strange sequel to this story is, that
+after a few days a parcel arrived at the house to which the women
+belonged, which on being opened was found to contain all the gold which
+had been wrested from them a few days before. Another lady in Mosul,
+also a Christian, was the proud possessor of a most valuable set of
+jewels. One day everything disappeared. She neither saw nor heard a
+robber, but evidently one must have gained admission to the house, for
+all her <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb306" href="#pb306" name=
+"pb306">306</a>]</span>jewels were taken; and to this day she has never
+had a clue as to their fate.</p>
+<p>I often say to the women in Mosul who sometimes commiserate me on
+having no gold: &ldquo;Which is better&mdash;to have gold for the
+robbers to get, or to have none and be able to go to rest with a quiet
+mind?&rdquo; I think most of them would prefer to have the gold and
+risk the rest, so devoted are they to it and all jewellery. Every
+woman, except the very poor, has on her marriage, gold coins for her
+head, gold chains for her neck, a golden band for her waist, gold
+bracelets for the arms, and the same for her ankles. Is it any wonder
+that these form attractions which prove too strong for the average
+robber to resist? I was once visiting at the house of a poor Jewess.
+She was telling me how poor she was, as her &ldquo;man&rdquo; was ill
+and could not work; but I said, &ldquo;I expect you have gold?&rdquo;
+&ldquo;Oh yes, of course,&rdquo; was the answer; and going to a
+cupboard she pulled out a secret drawer and showed me her store of gold
+coins and bangles, valued at about &pound;200. Before putting away her
+&ldquo;gods,&rdquo; she asked me if I thought her hiding-place was
+secure enough against the invasion of robbers. These people certainly
+lay up for themselves treasures where thieves break through and steal,
+the result being that when their &ldquo;treasures&rdquo; are taken they
+are left disconsolate. Having nothing better to live for, are they not
+worthy of our love and pity? <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb307" href=
+"#pb307" name="pb307">307</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2.12" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter XII</h2>
+<h2 class="main">The Pleasures of Desert Travelling</h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Desert blossoms as a rose&mdash;Flowers of the
+desert&mdash;Arabs, their occupation and women&mdash;Arab
+dancing&mdash;Robbers of the desert&mdash;An army of ten
+thousand&mdash;Five hundred armed men&mdash;False alarms&mdash;Lost in
+the desert&mdash;Delights and disturbances of travelling.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<div class="lg">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;Truth is truth: too true it was,</p>
+<p class="line">Gold! She hoarded and hugged it first,</p>
+<p class="line">Longed for it, leaned o&rsquo;er it, loved
+it&mdash;</p>
+<p class="line xd20e1108">Alas!</p>
+<p class="line">Till the humour grew to a head and burst,</p>
+<p class="line">And she cried at the final pass.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="lg">
+<p class="line">Talk not of God, my heart is stone!</p>
+<p class="line">Nor lover nor friend&mdash;be gold for both!</p>
+<p class="line">Gold I lack, and, my all, my own....&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">R. Browning.</span></p>
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line">&ldquo;O that the desert were my
+dwelling-place.&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Byron.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">It can with all truth be said that in springtime the
+Desert of Mesopotamia blossoms as a rose. Two years ago we travelled
+from Mosul to Aleppo by the northern route <i>vi&acirc;</i> Mardin,
+Diabekir, and Orfa. We left Mosul about the 20th June, just as the
+harvest had all been gathered in and the earth had once more resumed
+its parched-up appearance for another summer. No sooner had we left the
+neighbourhood of Mosul behind us than we were surrounded again on all
+sides by fields of waving corn, in many instances still green, and this
+continued <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb308" href="#pb308" name=
+"pb308">308</a>]</span>the whole way to Aleppo; the harvest becoming
+later as we travelled north. Where the land was not cultivated the wild
+flowers were a perfect delight, and the desert air was filled with
+their sweetness. In one place the effect of these flowers was
+peculiarly enchanting. As far as the eye could see, the fields were
+covered with hollyhocks of all hues, the different shades being grouped
+together; thus a vast expanse of red hollyhocks would be succeeded by a
+field of white ones, these again changing to a delightful mauve. I have
+never anywhere seen such a wealth of wild flowers as we saw in that
+so-called desert journey from Mosul to Mardin. To try to enumerate the
+countless tiny flowers of the desert would be futile; they go very near
+to rival in number and beauty the wild flowers of Palestine. Once we
+were sitting in a field waiting for our caravan, and my husband said he
+would see how many different kinds of flowers he could pick without
+moving. In a minute or two he had gathered over a dozen, all within
+arm&rsquo;s reach. In that field alone there must have been at least a
+hundred varieties of flowers.</p>
+<p>As we approached Aleppo the flowers became scarcer, and fruit-trees
+took their place. One day I was riding on the top of the pack mule,
+when suddenly the animal (who had only one eye) stumbled, and I was
+deposited on the ground before I realised what had happened. Feeling
+rather hot and bruised, I looked about for a place to rest in.
+Fortunately we were near an orchard, so finding a delightfully shady
+tree, we decided to make this our lunching-ground. As we sat and rested
+ripe apricots fell from the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb309" href=
+"#pb309" name="pb309">309</a>]</span>tree into our laps. The owner of
+the orchard informed us we could eat as many as we liked&mdash;for a
+consideration!</p>
+<p>But desert travelling is not all as pleasant as this. Were we to
+retrace our steps a month or two later we should see no beautiful
+flowers or waving corn-fields, nothing but burnt-up desert land.</p>
+<p>The direct route from Mosul to Aleppo lies through land almost
+entirely desert. For two whole days nothing is to be seen save an
+occasional Arab encampment, and sometimes not even that.</p>
+<p>The Arabs of Mesopotamia belong as a rule to the great Shammar
+tribe. They wander up and down the country living in black tents made
+from camel or goats&rsquo; hair. When wishing to seek pastures new they
+migrate from one place to another with all their flocks and herds, the
+tending of which forms one of their chief occupations. The Arab women
+are most industrious: in addition to the ordinary cares of the family,
+they fetch the water, carrying it home from the well or river in large
+jars balanced on their heads; they drive the flocks to pasture, milking
+them night and morning; they spin the wool of the sheep and goat, and
+weave it into cloth for the men&rsquo;s garments or for the tent
+canvas. In fact, there is hardly anything the Arab woman does not do,
+while her lord and master passes the time in scouring the country on
+horseback, or settling quarrels with his neighbours. Arabs of different
+tribes are very quick to go to war against each other, and will fight
+for the merest trifle, though blood is rarely shed, the consequences of
+a blood feud being so dreaded. With the Arab it must be blood for
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb310" href="#pb310" name=
+"pb310">310</a>]</span>blood, and once blood has been shed, there can
+be no rest till vengeance has been satisfied.</p>
+<p>The Arabs are very proud of their horses, as they have every reason
+to be, a true Arab horse being a lovely creature. As a rule they do not
+shoe their horses at all.</p>
+<p>One day two men from an encampment near Mosul were walking along
+when they saw something on the road which attracted their attention.
+Picking it up, they examined it very carefully, turned it over and
+over, but could not come to any satisfactory conclusion regarding it.
+The object under discussion was a horseshoe, but as neither of them had
+ever seen such a thing before they could not guess its use. After
+discussing it gravely for some time one Arab said to the other,
+&ldquo;Of course I know what it is. This is an old moon which has
+fallen down from heaven!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The Arabs are very hospitable people, and were often profuse in
+their invitations for us to eat with them. I have once or twice joined
+the women in sitting round a big cauldron full of &ldquo;borghol&rdquo;
+(crushed corn boiled with plenty of fat) and dipping with them into the
+one dish, and thoroughly enjoyed it. When you have a desert appetite it
+is possible to enjoy anything. Once my husband and I accepted an
+invitation to a meal with an Arab, and were regaled with chicken boiled
+with a green vegetable called &ldquo;<span lang=
+"fa-latn">barmiya</span>,&rdquo; and pillau. Our host would not eat
+with us, but employed himself brushing the flies away from the food as
+we ate.</p>
+<p>The Arab dance is a very weird performance to watch. The men and
+women all join hands, and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb311" href=
+"#pb311" name="pb311">311</a>]</span>shuffle with their feet, at the
+same time working every muscle of the body in a most grotesque fashion.
+As they warm to the dance they get very much excited, yelling and
+shouting in a frantic manner.</p>
+<p>These Arabs are the dreaded robbers of the desert, and our guard
+always impressed upon us, when travelling, what a dangerous set of
+people they were. Every speck on the horizon is magnified into a
+probable Arab; and if by chance one is met in the desert, the
+excitement is great. On one occasion we were riding in a very lonely
+spot when suddenly an Arab horseman rode into view. Immediately our
+gallant guard swooped down upon the unfortunate man, asking him what he
+meant by spying upon our movements, for they did not think it possible
+that he would be there alone if it were not for that object. The Arab
+assured us he had no such intentions, but had only come to meet a
+friend whom he believed to be in our caravan. However, our escort would
+not credit his story, so took him prisoner till we had safely passed
+the dangerous part, and then allowed him to return. We could not help
+wondering whether, if there had been twenty Arabs instead of one, our
+guard would have been so brave.</p>
+<p>Another time we were crossing a huge track of waterless desert, said
+to be infested with marauding Arab tribes, when suddenly we saw the
+escort becoming highly excited, waving their guns about, preparatory to
+galloping off. Before we had time to ask what it was all about they
+were off. We were then driving in a carriage, so making inquiries
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb312" href="#pb312" name=
+"pb312">312</a>]</span>from our driver were assured it was nothing,
+only he pointed ominously to a long black line seen far away in the
+distance. Our servant assured us this was the shadow of the mountain,
+but this was only said to reassure us in case we felt alarmed.</p>
+<p>The &ldquo;black line&rdquo; appeared to be steadily advancing,
+every moment becoming more and more like a huge army of mounted men
+marching straight for us. Our driver, thinking, no doubt, of the
+probable capture of his horses by the robbers, lashed up the poor
+beasts into a gallop, urging them on ever faster and faster till they
+could go no quicker. Our servant, who was sitting on the box-seat, made
+valiant attempts to draw off our thoughts from the impending danger, as
+he thought the &ldquo;khatoun&rdquo; would be much frightened. But the
+&ldquo;khatoun&rdquo; was not to be blindfolded, and much preferred to
+see and know what was going on. By this time the &ldquo;army&rdquo; had
+assumed enormous proportions, for as each section appeared in sight,
+another one loomed behind, away in the distance. Already in my mind I
+resignedly (?) bade farewell to all the contents of our boxes, as I
+pictured the Arabs ruthlessly breaking them open and spreading the
+contents on the ground for inspection and division. We soon saw that we
+must give up the race, for every moment brought us nearer our dreaded
+enemies; till just as we reached the top of a small rise in the ground
+we came face to face with our &ldquo;army of soldiers.&rdquo;
+&ldquo;Alhamd&rsquo;llillah!&rdquo; they were nothing more alarming
+than a huge cavalcade of about 10,000 camels being taken to water in
+companies of 500, each company being in charge of a drover, the order
+and regularity with which they <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb313"
+href="#pb313" name="pb313">313</a>]</span>walked giving the impression
+that they were regiments of mounted soldiers. I fancy the alarm of the
+guards and driver was only assumed for our benefit, for on our return
+journey they began the same story at the identical spot, and there
+again, sure enough, was the steady advancing line; but this time we
+were wiser, and could laugh at our would-be alarmists.</p>
+<p>Another time we had just crossed a river at the end of a long
+day&rsquo;s march, and were enjoying a well-earned rest and cup of tea,
+when our escort came up in great distress of mind to say that he had
+just heard that a band of 500 armed men had that morning crossed the
+river with the avowed intention of lying in wait for the Feringhi
+caravan and attacking it. We were getting used to alarms of this kind,
+and at first only laughed at their anxious faces; but they were so
+persistent in their entreaties that we should not remain on that side
+of the river, that we began to think that perhaps, after all,
+<i>this</i> time they might have foundation for their fears. So we made
+a compromise to the effect that, if they wished, we would pack up and
+move on to some village, although we were very tired. So with this they
+had to be content, and it was arranged that at midnight we were to
+start. However, just before turning in for a short rest, the guard
+again made their appearance, this time to say they had considered that
+it would not be at all safe to travel by night, and that we had better
+wait till daylight, adding in the usual way: &ldquo;But do not be
+afraid; we will watch all night long.&rdquo; So we all retired very
+thankfully to rest. It was a very hot night, and being unable to sleep
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb314" href="#pb314" name=
+"pb314">314</a>]</span>I went outside the tent door for a little air,
+and found our gallant guard all fast asleep and snoring. In the morning
+they assured us that they had never closed their eyes all night, but
+had sat up watching for robbers!!</p>
+<p>We had experienced once in Persia the pleasant sensation of being
+lost when alone in the desert. In the Turkish-Arabian desert we, in
+company with the whole caravan, were once lost, and spent many weary
+hours wandering about seeking for our right road in vain. It was a day
+or two after leaving Diabekir; our escort, reduced to one soldier as
+the road was considered fairly safe, was quite sure he knew the way.
+Our muleteer and servants had never travelled that road before, so we
+were completely in the hands of one man; but as he seemed quite sure,
+we did not trouble about it, knowing that these men are always on the
+road acting as escort. But we soon found that we were trusting to a
+broken reed, so far as his knowledge as a guide was concerned. We
+started one day on what we supposed to be a short stage, but to our
+surprise it seemed to lengthen out into a longer one than usual, till
+we began to despair of ever reaching the end. At last, when sunset was
+a thing of the past, we began to suspect that our guide was not too
+sure of his where-abouts; and this suspicion soon changed to certainty
+when we suddenly found ourselves on the top of a steep bank, down which
+it was impossible for the animals to climb. Our clever guide then
+confessed that he did not know where we were.</p>
+<p>It was now quite dark, and we had been riding since early morning,
+so felt pretty tired; but our <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb315"
+href="#pb315" name="pb315">315</a>]</span>muleteer said it was quite
+out of the question to stay where we were, as there was no water for
+the animals, and the hills with which we were surrounded were known to
+be full of robbers. So we wandered on and on and <i>on</i>, listening
+in vain for some sound of habitation and hearing none, longing even to
+hear the joyful sound of the barking of dogs or croaking of frogs,
+telling of life and water; but our longings were not to be realised
+that night. At last, about ten o&rsquo;clock, we said we could not
+possibly go any further; so, amidst much discontent and fear on the
+part of the men, we dismounted and declared our intention of staying
+where we were till dawn. The animals were all tethered, and we all sat
+round in a circle, so that if the robbers came we should be able to
+show a good front. The men appeared to be quite frightened, and
+declared they would not sleep, but each would take his turn at
+watching. We were too sleepy to care much whether the robbers came or
+not, so wrapping ourselves in blankets we were soon fast asleep.
+Awaking about half-an-hour later, I looked out to see how the
+&ldquo;watchers&rdquo; were getting on, and saw that they were all fast
+asleep, covered up in their <i>abas</i> or long cloaks. I soon followed
+their example and slept till morning, no robbers having come in the
+night to disturb our slumbers. We discovered that we had wandered a
+good distance out of our way, but found the right path soon after nine
+o&rsquo;clock, and very thankful we all were to obtain water to
+drink&mdash;the animals more so than any of us, perhaps.</p>
+<p>Travelling in the desert is very pleasant if the stage is not a very
+long one. To start about sunrise <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb316"
+href="#pb316" name="pb316">316</a>]</span>or a little after, ride three
+or four hours, then have a lunch of bread and melons, and finish up
+with another three hours&rsquo; ride, makes a very pleasant picnic; but
+when the stage takes twelve or thirteen hours to do, the pleasure
+becomes a burden. At the end of a short stage it is delightful to sit
+outside our tent and enjoy the cool breeze of the desert, and watch the
+stars peeping out one after the other. Sometimes, however, the weather
+is not such as to allow of this form of enjoyment. When we were coming
+home in 1907, in crossing the desert we came in for some tremendously
+heavy thunderstorms. One night we were simultaneously awakened by a
+tremendous gust of wind which threatened to bring down the tent. We
+sprang up and clung to the poles; but thinking the whole structure was
+bound to fall, and preferring to be outside, I forsook my pole to which
+I had been clinging, and rushed out into the pouring rain. My husband
+went to call some of the men, and found them all happily asleep in the
+carriage: with great difficulty he awoke them, and together they made
+secure all the tent-pegs. By this time the great fury of the storm was
+over, and we crept inside the tent, wet, cold, and miserable. Wonderful
+to say, neither of us caught cold after our adventure. The next morning
+we spread all our wet bedding, &amp;c., in the sun to dry; and just as
+it was nearly ready, down came another storm and soaked everything
+again. Such are some of the joys of travelling in the desert.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb317" href="#pb317" name=
+"pb317">317</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2.13" class="div1 chapter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="label">Chapter XIII</h2>
+<h2 class="main">Pioneer Medical Mission Work in Mosul
+(Nineveh)<a class="noteref" id="xd20e3843src" href="#xd20e3843" name=
+"xd20e3843src">1</a></h2>
+<div class="argument">
+<p class="first">Winning the confidence of the people&mdash;Native
+surgery&mdash;Difficulties to be overcome&mdash;Backward
+patients&mdash;Encouraging work&mdash;Prevalent
+diseases&mdash;Lunatics&mdash;Possible future of Mesopotamia.</p>
+</div>
+<div class="epigraph">
+<div class="lgouter">
+<p class="line xd20e2463">&rdquo;... My soul is full</p>
+<p class="line">Of pity for the sickness of this world;</p>
+<p class="line">Which I will heal, if healing may be found!&rdquo;</p>
+</div>
+<p class="first signed"><span class="sc">Sir E. Arnold.</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">It is often thought that in the East, whenever an
+English doctor arrives at a city, patients throng to him from all
+quarters. This is only partially true, at least in the near East. If
+medicine and attendance are granted free indiscriminately, doubtless at
+first crowds will attend the out-patient department, many coming merely
+out of curiosity. If good work is to be done, it is better to make some
+charge, however small, exempting only the very poor. This principle
+has, I believe, been adopted by all our medical missionaries, and fees
+thus earned go to help in making the work self-supporting.</p>
+<p>The European doctor in Persia or Turkey has first to win the
+confidence of the people, and this is sometimes no easy matter. On our
+arrival in Mosul we rented a house in the centre of the city, which had
+two compounds. We lived in the inner compound, and made the outer into
+a dispensary and small hospital. At first everything looked rather
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb318" href="#pb318" name=
+"pb318">318</a>]</span>hopeless, the house being an old one and nearly
+in ruins. However, we made a big stable into a waiting-room for the
+patients; other rooms were patched up and transformed into
+consulting-room, dispensary, operating theatre, and wards, all of a
+most primitive kind. In this great city of 60,000 to 80,000 people our
+staff consisted of my wife and me and two native assistants, who had
+been trained in our Baghdad Medical Mission.</p>
+<p>There was no lack of physicians in the city, but excluding two or
+three Turkish army doctors, and one or two others with Constantinople
+diplomas, the rest were quacks of the most pronounced type. Nearly
+every old lady in the city thinks herself competent to treat diseases
+of the eye, the barbers are the surgeons, bone-setters abound,
+hereditary physicians are by no means scarce. These latter inherit
+&ldquo;herbal prescriptions&rdquo; from their forefathers, and though
+now forbidden to practise by the Turkish Government, yet contrive to
+visit many houses as a &ldquo;friend&rdquo; after dark, and earn enough
+for a livelihood. The Dominicans (who have a large Mission in Mosul)
+also give away many medicines, and have now a qualified native doctor.
+But though there is much &ldquo;physicking&rdquo; in Mosul, but little
+surgery is done, and that gives the opportunity for the European doctor
+to step in. Arab surgery is of the crudest description. Let one sample
+suffice. A poor Arab woman was brought to the dispensary, soon after we
+started work, by her father. She complained of not being able to
+breathe through her nose. On examining her throat I found that the
+upper air passage had become shut off from the <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb319" href="#pb319" name="pb319">319</a>]</span>back
+of the throat as a result of old inflammation. Upon further inquiry I
+elicited the following history. Two years before, the patient had
+developed a bad sore throat. Her father took her to the native surgeon,
+who had the poor woman&rsquo;s mouth held forcibly open, while he
+proceeded to cure the sore throat by rubbing it with a red-hot
+flattened piece of iron!</p>
+<p>Gradually we commenced to win the confidence of the people: they
+came in ever-increasing numbers to the dispensary. Gathered together in
+the waiting-room would be a crowd composed of many different
+nationalities&mdash;Christians, Moslems, Jews, Kurds from the
+mountains, Bedouins from the desert, Yezidees (the so-called
+devil-worshippers), a motley throng, listening quietly and without
+interruption to the reading and exposition of the Gospel, ere passing
+one by one through the doctor&rsquo;s consulting-room, for the
+treatment of their multitudinous diseases. The medical missionary is
+called upon to do his best to cure every ailment; he must be ready to
+accept heavy responsibilities, there are no &ldquo;specialists&rdquo;
+to consult, often he is without the help of any trained nurse, and in
+pioneer work, at least, he has no properly equipped hospital, and must
+perforce perform most serious operations under the worst possible
+conditions. In addition to all this, in lands under Mohammedan rule
+there is always the risk of a riot if a patient should die in a
+Christian hospital, especially on the operating table. Yet despite all
+these drawbacks, it is a grand life, revealing to a man his own utter
+weakness, and making him rely more and more upon his God.</p>
+<p>Soon we were able to commence admitting in-patients, being forced to
+limit admission to surgical <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb320" href=
+"#pb320" name="pb320">320</a>]</span>cases. At first there was
+considerable difficulty in getting the patients to come on the actual
+day fixed for the operation; each one was anxious for his neighbour to
+be the first. Finally I was compelled to threaten to put a black mark
+against the name of any patient who had agreed to come in for operation
+and then failed to put in an appearance, adding that <i>that</i>
+patient would have to wait a long time before having a chance offered a
+second time. This had the desired effect, a woman needing a small
+eyelid operation being the first to brave the terrors of the Feringhi
+hospital.</p>
+<p>In due course, instruments and dressings all having been prepared,
+the patient, in a condition of mortal terror, was led into the
+operating room, and induced to lie on the table. But alas, her fears
+gained the mastery, and she instantly jumped up, ran out of the room,
+and disappeared from the dispensary. This was not encouraging, but a
+few days later a little Jew boy suffering from vesical stone (a very
+common disease in Mosul, especially amongst children) was brought to
+the hospital by his father. We persuaded him to enter the hospital with
+his boy, and thus finally gained our first in-patient. The stone having
+been removed, and the boy making a good recovery, we had no further
+difficulty in getting in-patients. Our six wooden beds soon all had
+occupants, then we added six more beds; finally, obtaining a
+neighbouring house for our own residence, we made our old house (the
+inner compound) into a small hospital for women and children. Thus we
+were able to accommodate twenty-four patients, and as each had at least
+one <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb321" href="#pb321" name=
+"pb321">321</a>]</span>friend, we often had over fifty people resident
+on the premises. It is this in-patient work that gives the most
+encouraging opportunities to the medical missionary. There in his
+little hospital he has patients of all creeds, lying side by side; many
+have been relieved or cured by operation, and will listen gratefully to
+all the teaching they can get. Each patient before the operation hears
+the doctor pray a short prayer, asking God to bless the operation and
+cause it to be successful. Day after day, week after week, he receives
+instruction, and gains an entirely new idea of what Christianity really
+is, and when he leaves the mission hospital and returns to his home,
+whether in the city or in a distant mountain village, all his old
+bitter opposition to Christianity has disappeared, and often he will
+send other patients for treatment to the English mission. The following
+statistics, for two years only, may prove interesting, as showing the
+far-reaching influence of even a badly equipped, undermanned medical
+mission:&mdash;</p>
+<div class="table">
+<table class="xd20e3882" width="100%">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3">Total attendance of out-patients</td>
+<td class="xd20e3886">24,519</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2" class="xd20e3889">Operations performed</td>
+<td rowspan="2" class="xd20e3891"><img src="images/bracket-left.gif"
+alt="" width="6" height="33"></td>
+<td>197 Major</td>
+<td class="xd20e3886">569</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>372 Minor</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3">Total number of in-patients</td>
+<td class="xd20e3886">288</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3">Number of villages and towns, <i>excluding</i> Mosul,
+from which patients have come to the dispensary</td>
+<td class="xd20e3886">348</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+<p>This last item is especially interesting; excluding Mosul (from
+which naturally most of our patients are drawn), 348 <i>different</i>
+towns and villages (some as many as ten days&rsquo; journey) have sent
+us patients, and yet the work is barely started! <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb322" href="#pb322" name="pb322">322</a>]</span></p>
+<p>To illustrate the effect of a medical mission in disarming
+opposition, I may add that, in 1907, when it was feared that, owing to
+the need for retrenchment, the Society would have to close the work in
+Mosul, a petition, signed by most of the prominent Mohammedan
+residents, including the chief mullahs, was brought to me, asking that
+I would remit it at once to the Society. It was a request that the
+Medical Mission should not be withdrawn, as it had been such a boon to
+the inhabitants of the city. In a very wonderful manner God heard and
+answered our prayers, and the Mission is not to be closed, but rather
+it is hoped to equip it more thoroughly.</p>
+<p>The operations most frequently called for in Mosul are those for
+&ldquo;cataract&rdquo; and vesical stone, but patients come with many
+other diseases, both surgical and medical. The city is full of
+phthisis; the insanitary conditions under which the vast majority of
+the inhabitants live favour its rapid dissemination. Smallpox and
+typhoid fever are very common, and once these diseases have been
+definitely diagnosed, neither the patient nor his friends will permit
+any further medical treatment. For the latter disease the patient is
+kept on fairly strict diet until he &ldquo;perspires.&rdquo; This to
+the native mind denotes the end of all possible danger, so he is then
+pressed to eat anything and everything, with disastrous results.
+Malaria, dysentery, hepatic abscesses are also rife; there have also
+been epidemics of cholera and plague, but not of late years. Once the
+projected Baghdad Railway (which will pass through Mosul) is an
+accomplished fact, we may expect the <span class="pagenum">[<a id=
+"pb323" href="#pb323" name="pb323">323</a>]</span>importation of plague
+from the south, unless the most stringent precautions are taken.</p>
+<p>The Bedouin Arab can rarely be persuaded to stop in the city; after
+the freedom of life in the desert, he feels stifled within the four
+walls of a house. Ere leaving Mosul I had a curious demonstration of
+this fact. An old blind Arab was brought to me by his son, suffering
+from double cataract. I told him that by means of a simple operation he
+might once again be able to see, but that he would have to stay in the
+hospital for a few days. He indignantly refused, saying he would rather
+remain blind the rest of his life than sleep beneath a roof. In vain
+did his son plead with him, and finding that I would not operate at
+once and allow him to be treated as an out-patient, the old man went
+sorrowfully away.</p>
+<p>Every in-patient admitted had to bring a friend to help to nurse
+him, as we had no proper hospital equipment and no trained nurse. Only
+twice in the three years did I break this rule, both times with
+disastrous results. The first was a poor old man from a village some
+days&rsquo; journey from Mosul. He was poor and friendless, also blind
+with &ldquo;cataract&rdquo;; reluctantly I allowed myself to be
+influenced by his pathetic pleadings, and admitted him without any one
+to look after him. Prior to his admission he had been bitten on the
+calf of one leg by a dog, and complaining of pain from this wound, we
+dressed it with a simple boracic fomentation. Unfortunately this
+dressing was forgotten and left on the leg. The eye was in due course
+operated upon successfully, and the patient received the usual strict
+injunction <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb324" href="#pb324" name=
+"pb324">324</a>]</span>to lie still for twenty-four hours. At the first
+dressing everything seemed all right; two days later I found to my
+sorrow that the eye had suppurated, and that there was no hope of
+saving the vision. The strictest inquiry was at once instituted, but
+for some time we could discover no clue as to how the eye had become
+infected; then the truth came out. It appeared that the second night
+after the operation the old man commenced to feel a slight pricking
+pain in the eye that had been operated upon (not an uncommon symptom
+after &ldquo;cataract&rdquo; extraction, with no bad significance as a
+rule). The pain seemed similar to that which he had felt in his leg,
+which had been relieved by the application of the boracic fomentation.
+The patient reasoned thus with himself: &ldquo;It is night time, I had
+better not call for the doctor; but the medicine on my eye is evidently
+doing no good, while that put on my leg cured a similar pain to this at
+once, so I had better take off this bandage from my eye and replace it
+with the one on my leg&rdquo;! This he had proceeded to do, and
+consequently lost his newly acquired sight.</p>
+<p>The other case was somewhat similar, but the patient was a fanatical
+Moslem priest, whom I afterwards found out was a well-known
+&ldquo;majnoon&rdquo; (madman). He also had been admitted alone, and we
+had but little trouble with him until after the operation (also for
+&ldquo;cataract&rdquo;) had been performed. A few hours later my
+assistant came running to me, and said: &ldquo;Doctor, that old
+cataract patient declares that he must and <i>he will</i> say his
+prayers. We have done our best to prevent him, but in vain.&rdquo; Now
+a Mohammedan, before he prays, performs certain <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb325" href="#pb325" name=
+"pb325">325</a>]</span>ablutions, which include washing his hands and
+face; so I at once ran up to the ward, but, alas! we arrived too late.
+The old priest had taken off his bandage, washed his face and hands,
+said his prayers, and was quite unable to understand why the Hakim
+Sahib should be angry! We gave the poor old man some lotion and a shade
+for his eye, and sent him back to his home (as he lived in Mosul),
+refusing to accept any further responsibility. Some weeks later my
+assistant met the old priest in the bazaar, quite pleased with himself,
+for he had actually obtained sufficient sight to find his way about
+alone.</p>
+<p>Fortunately the majority of the patients are more reasonable, and
+quickly learn to submit more or less to &ldquo;hospital
+regulations.&rdquo; Children sometimes proved troublesome, especially
+boys, when accompanied by a crowd of relations. I remember one morning,
+when making my daily round, coming across a group of people surrounding
+a little boy six years of age. He had been ordered a dose of castor
+oil, and had made up his obstinate little mind that he would <i>not</i>
+take the nasty stuff. Being a boy, and only son and heir, he had been
+spoilt most royally. Father, mother, aunt, grandmother, and friends
+each in turn tried persuasion, varied by gentle threats, all in vain.
+He beat and (I am sorry to say) cursed the women, his mother included,
+and sullenly refused to accept the medicine from his father, despite
+sundry promises of sweets, money, &amp;c.</p>
+<p>After watching the scene with some amusement I stepped forward, took
+the cup containing the obnoxious castor oil, and forcibly administered
+the dose without regarding the boy&rsquo;s shrieks and tears.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb326" href="#pb326" name=
+"pb326">326</a>]</span>Then I read the parents a little lecture upon
+the evil result of spoiling their children, which I fear had but scant
+result.</p>
+<p>Often do I feel ashamed as I note how patiently pain and diseases
+are borne by these poor people. It is always &ldquo;the will of
+God,&rdquo; and therefore there is no use complaining, and little use
+rebelling. Time after time have I had to gently break the news to some
+poor patient, who may have come long distances to see the English
+doctor, that his blindness could not be cured by operation, being
+caused by what is popularly known as black cataract (glaucoma). A few
+(usually women) would go away weeping, but the vast majority both of
+men and women would quietly respond, &ldquo;Alhamd&rsquo;llillah&rdquo;
+(Praise be to God), with but little sign of emotion.</p>
+<p>So far as I know there is but one asylum for cases of mental
+diseases in the whole of the Turkish Empire, and that one is at
+Asfariyeh, near Beyrout, and belongs to an English society. The usual
+method of dealing with lunatics in Mosul is, if they are apparently
+harmless, that they are allowed to wander about freely and treated
+kindly; but once they develop symptoms of mania they are treated as
+wild beasts, put into a dark room, and chained to a wall. But we
+possess a specialist in &ldquo;mental diseases&rdquo; in Mosul,
+belonging to an old Mohammedan family, who has a great reputation for
+the treatment of &ldquo;lunatics.&rdquo; In the courtyard of his house
+he has had dug several deep wells, and beside each well is placed a
+large tub, having a hole in the bottom which communicates with the
+well. The poor madman is made to work from sunrise to sunset,
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb327" href="#pb327" name=
+"pb327">327</a>]</span>drawing water from the well and pouring it into
+the perforated tub, being told that he may leave off <i>when</i> he has
+filled the tub. If he refuses to work, he is unmercifully beaten.
+Several cures are said to have resulted from this treatment.</p>
+<p>There is nothing so potent as the in-patient work of a hospital in
+overcoming opposition. Amongst our numerous &ldquo;cataract&rdquo;
+patients was an Arab from Singar (a mountainous district near Mosul).
+He came armed with a perfectly unnecessary introduction, in the shape
+of a letter from one of the chief Mohammedans in the city. After he had
+regained his sight and had left the hospital, ere returning to his
+mountain home he went to this &ldquo;big&rdquo; Moslem to thank him. He
+found himself the centre of a large and curious throng, who questioned
+him severely upon his experiences in the &ldquo;Christian&rdquo;
+hospital. Some of the more fanatical (it was in the early days of the
+Mission) did not scruple to speak against the hospital and the English
+hakim; but, like the man in St. John&rsquo;s Gospel, this Arab was not
+afraid to testify of what had been done for him, &ldquo;for,&rdquo;
+said he, &ldquo;you can say what you like&mdash;one thing I know,
+before I was blind, now I can see.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>But enough&mdash;I fear to tire my readers; but ere closing I would
+like just to refer to the possible future of Mesopotamia. One thing is
+certain, a few years more will exhibit great changes. I have already
+referred to the Baghdad Railway. As I write it is rumoured that the
+German Government have at last obtained a further concession from the
+Sultan of Turkey, which will allow them to continue the line another
+five hundred miles, piercing Mount <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb328"
+href="#pb328" name="pb328">328</a>]</span>Taurus and reaching near to
+the city of Mardin (some ten days&rsquo; journey north of Mosul). When
+this is accomplished the rest of the work is quite simple. The line
+from Mardin to Baghdad (passing through Mosul) should present no
+difficulties, and Mosul (with the ruins of Nineveh) will become easy of
+access from Europe.</p>
+<p>In the next place there is the question of the navigation of the
+Tigris. Ere long there is no doubt that boats will be allowed to come
+up the river from Baghdad to Mosul, and possibly on up to Diabekir
+(300&ndash;400 miles north of Mosul). This will mean an enormous
+increase in trade, both in imports and exports.</p>
+<p>Finally, there is that fascinating problem of the irrigation of the
+Mesopotamian desert. The remains of old canals are still visible, and
+it needs nothing but an energetic government willing to spend a
+comparatively small sum, plus the services of a capable engineer, to
+transform the whole of that desert between the two great rivers
+Euphrates and Tigris into a veritable Garden of Eden, even as it must
+have been in the days of old, when huge armies were able to find
+sufficient provender for man and beast throughout the whole of that
+vast region. The &ldquo;finale&rdquo; of that great province,
+containing the ruins of so many ancient cities, has not yet been
+written; and there are many signs which tend to suggest to the
+thoughtful observer that, ere another century has passed, Mesopotamia
+may once again take its place, and that no mean position, amongst the
+kingdoms of the earth! <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb329" href=
+"#pb329" name="pb329">329</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<hr class="fnsep">
+<p class="footnote"><span class="label"><a class="noteref" id=
+"xd20e3843" href="#xd20e3843src" name="xd20e3843">1</a></span> By Dr.
+A. Hume-Griffith.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="back">
+<div class="div1 index"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h2 class="main">Index</h2>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">A</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Abdul Fateh, our <i lang="fa-latn">pishkhedmat</i>,
+<a href="#pb78" class="pageref">78</a></p>
+<p>Aganoor, Dr., <a href="#pb146" class="pageref">146</a></p>
+<p>Agha Mohammed Khan, Kerman sacked by, <a href="#pb31" class=
+"pageref">31</a></p>
+<p>Alexander marched through Kerman, <a href="#pb31" class=
+"pageref">31</a></p>
+<p>Ali, &ldquo;The Lion of God,&rdquo; <a href="#pb19" class=
+"pageref">19</a></p>
+<p>Aliab&acirc;d, the village of, <a href="#pb66" class=
+"pageref">66</a></p>
+<p>American mission, the, <a href="#pb27" class="pageref">27</a></p>
+<p>Amputation, how regarded, <a href="#pb142" class=
+"pageref">142</a></p>
+<p>Anderoon, the, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a>, <a href=
+"#pb87" class="pageref">87</a>;<br>
+of the Zil-es-Sultan, <a href="#pb93" class="pageref">93</a></p>
+<p>Animals, cruelty to, <a href="#pb137" class="pageref">137</a></p>
+<p>Anjiman, the, a Parsee governing body, <a href="#pb129" class=
+"pageref">129</a></p>
+<p>Ants, a pest of white, <a href="#pb73" class="pageref">73</a>;<br>
+their ravages, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a></p>
+<p>Arab dancing, a weird performance, <a href="#pb310" class=
+"pageref">310</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; women, their love of freedom, <a href="#pb191" class=
+"pageref">191</a>;<br>
+industry of, <a href="#pb309" class="pageref">309</a></p>
+<p>Arabs of Mesopotamia, the, <a href="#pb309" class=
+"pageref">309</a>;<br>
+hospitality of, <a href="#pb310" class="pageref">310</a>;<br>
+dancing, <a href="#pb311" class="pageref">311</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; of Mosul, the, <a href="#pb190" class=
+"pageref">190</a></p>
+<p>Arak, a favourite drink, <a href="#pb269" class=
+"pageref">269</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Arg,&rdquo; the Governor&rsquo;s residence, <a href="#pb110"
+class="pageref">110</a></p>
+<p>Ark, remains of the, <a href="#pb177" class="pageref">177</a></p>
+<p>Armenians, their virtues and vices, <a href="#pb28" class=
+"pageref">28</a></p>
+<p>Asshur, remains of, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;At Home,&rdquo; our, <a href="#pb85" class=
+"pageref">85</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">B</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">B&aacute;b, the, founder of Babism, <a href="#pb116"
+class="pageref">116</a>;<br>
+imprisonment, <a href="#pb117" class="pageref">117</a>;<br>
+execution, <a href="#pb118" class="pageref">118</a></p>
+<p>Babism, its origin and founder, <a href="#pb116" class=
+"pageref">116</a></p>
+<p><i lang="fa-latn">B&acirc;d geers</i>, or
+&ldquo;wind-catchers,&rdquo; in Yezd, <a href="#pb54" class=
+"pageref">54</a></p>
+<p>Baghdad railway, the, <a href="#pb184" class="pageref">184</a>;<br>
+its importance to Mosul, <a href="#pb328" class="pageref">328</a></p>
+<p>Bagi, our servant, <a href="#pb69" class="pageref">69</a>, <a href=
+"#pb79" class="pageref">79</a>, <a href="#pb85" class=
+"pageref">85</a></p>
+<p>Barad&aelig;us, Jacob, a Syrian reformer, <a href="#pb190" class=
+"pageref">190</a></p>
+<p>Bathing in the Tigris, <a href="#pb203" class="pageref">203</a></p>
+<p>Bazaar, an exciting experience in the Kerman, <a href="#pb80" class=
+"pageref">80</a></p>
+<p>Beauty specialists, Persian women as, <a href="#pb104" class=
+"pageref">104</a></p>
+<p>Bedouin, the, as an in-patient, <a href="#pb323" class=
+"pageref">323</a></p>
+<p>Bedouins, the, <a href="#pb191" class="pageref">191</a></p>
+<p>Beggars, a saying among, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a></p>
+<p>Blackett, Mr. and Mrs., <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a></p>
+<p>Blackett&rsquo;s, Mr., valuable library and the white ants, <a href=
+"#pb75" class="pageref">75</a></p>
+<p>Boy&rsquo;s birth, celebrations at a, <a href="#pb211" class=
+"pageref">211</a>;<br>
+education, <a href="#pb213" class="pageref">213</a></p>
+<p>Brass-work of Isphahan, the, <a href="#pb47" class=
+"pageref">47</a></p>
+<p>Bread-making, <a href="#pb255" class="pageref">255</a></p>
+<p>Brick-making, <a href="#pb73" class="pageref">73</a></p>
+<p>Brick pillars for capital punishment, <a href="#pb138" class=
+"pageref">138</a></p>
+<p>Bride, a Persian, <a href="#pb101" class="pageref">101</a>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb330" href="#pb330" name=
+"pb330">330</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Bridge of boats at Mosul, <a href="#pb176" class=
+"pageref">176</a></p>
+<p>Burials, danger of hasty, <a href="#pb250" class=
+"pageref">250</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">C</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Calico printing at Isphahan, <a href="#pb47" class=
+"pageref">47</a></p>
+<p>Caravanserais, <a href="#pb132" class="pageref">132</a></p>
+<p>Carless, Mr., death of, <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a></p>
+<p>Carpet, how to improve, <a href="#pb41" class="pageref">41</a>;<br>
+how to tell a good one, <a href="#pb42" class="pageref">42</a>;<br>
+prices, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a>;<br>
+Kurdistan, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a></p>
+<p>Carpet manufactories, <a href="#pb40" class="pageref">40</a></p>
+<p>Carr, Dr., <a href="#pb150" class="pageref">150</a></p>
+<p>Carriages, scarcity of, <a href="#pb26" class="pageref">26</a></p>
+<p>Cataract among the Persians, <a href="#pb154" class=
+"pageref">154</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; operations for, <a href="#pb322" class=
+"pageref">322</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; patients, <a href="#pb168" class=
+"pageref">168</a></p>
+<p>Cats, Persia a land of, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a>;<br>
+exportation of, <a href="#pb23" class="pageref">23</a></p>
+<p>Cawals, or preachers of the Yezidees, <a href="#pb288" class=
+"pageref">288</a></p>
+<p>Cellars as dwelling-rooms in hot weather, <a href="#pb54" class=
+"pageref">54</a></p>
+<p>Census, taking a, at Mosul, <a href="#pb301" class=
+"pageref">301</a></p>
+<p>Centipede, the girl and the imaginary, <a href="#pb275" class=
+"pageref">275</a></p>
+<p>Chaldeans in Mosul, the, <a href="#pb188" class=
+"pageref">188</a></p>
+<p><i lang="fa-latn">Chappa khanehs</i>, or post-houses, <a href=
+"#pb133" class="pageref">133</a></p>
+<p>Character of the Persian women, <a href="#pb84" class=
+"pageref">84</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; of the Persians, <a href="#pb60" class=
+"pageref">60</a>;<br>
+their politeness, <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a></p>
+<p>Charamika, an ancient belief, <a href="#pb178" class=
+"pageref">178</a></p>
+<p>Chebar, or Khabour, River, <a href="#pb257" class=
+"pageref">257</a></p>
+<p>Children employed in carpet-weaving, <a href="#pb44" class=
+"pageref">44</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; Persian, <a href="#pb91" class="pageref">91</a>;<br>
+Parsee, <a href="#pb122" class="pageref">122</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; spoilt, <a href="#pb208" class="pageref">208</a>;<br>
+of Mosul, <a href="#pb221" class="pageref">221</a>;<br>
+early contamination, <a href="#pb222" class="pageref">222</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Chimneys&rdquo; of Yezd, the, <a href="#pb54" class=
+"pageref">54</a></p>
+<p>Christians in Mosul, <a href="#pb188" class="pageref">188</a></p>
+<p><i>Chuddar</i>, the, <a href="#pb98" class="pageref">98</a></p>
+<p>Climate of Persia, the, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a>;<br>
+of Teheran, <a href="#pb51" class="pageref">51</a>;<br>
+of Isphahan, <a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a>;<br>
+of Kerman, <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a></p>
+<p>Coffee making and drinking, <a href="#pb254" class=
+"pageref">254</a></p>
+<p>Cook, our, <a href="#pb76" class="pageref">76</a></p>
+<p>Cookery, Persian, <a href="#pb226" class=
+"pageref">226</a>&ndash;7</p>
+<p>Copper-work of Kashan, the, <a href="#pb47" class=
+"pageref">47</a></p>
+<p>Costume of Persian women, <a href="#pb95" class=
+"pageref">95</a>;<br>
+of Parsee women, <a href="#pb126" class="pageref">126</a></p>
+<p>Cotton grown about Mosul, <a href="#pb182" class=
+"pageref">182</a></p>
+<p>Cultivation about Mosul, <a href="#pb182" class=
+"pageref">182</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Cup of coffee,&rdquo; the danger in a, <a href="#pb88" class=
+"pageref">88</a></p>
+<p>Cyrus returned from India by way of Kerman, <a href="#pb31" class=
+"pageref">31</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">D</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first"><i><span class="corr" id="xd20e4526" title=
+"Source: Dakhnehs">Dakhmehs</span></i>, or Towers of Silence, <a href=
+"#pb128" class="pageref">128</a></p>
+<p>Demavend, Mount, <a href="#pb51" class="pageref">51</a></p>
+<p>Dervish, the, <a href="#pb112" class="pageref">112</a></p>
+<p>Desert, magnetic attractions of the, <a href="#pb130" class=
+"pageref">130</a>;<br>
+songs of, <a href="#pb131" class="pageref">131</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; travelling in the, its monotony, <a href="#pb294"
+class="pageref">294</a>;<br>
+a puppy, <a href="#pb294" class="pageref">294</a>;<br>
+a kitten, <a href="#pb295" class="pageref">295</a>;<br>
+a murder, <a href="#pb296" class="pageref">296</a>;<br>
+thieves in the tent, <a href="#pb298" class="pageref">298</a>;<br>
+compensation, <a href="#pb300" class="pageref">300</a>;<br>
+its pleasures, <a href="#pb307" class="pageref">307</a>;<br>
+flowers and fruit, <a href="#pb308" class="pageref">308</a>;<br>
+Arabs of Mesopotamia, <a href="#pb309" class="pageref">309</a>;<br>
+robbers of the desert, <a href="#pb311" class="pageref">311</a>;<br>
+a false alarm, <a href="#pb312" class="pageref">312</a>;<br>
+lost, <a href="#pb314" class="pageref">314</a>;<br>
+thunderstorms, <a href="#pb316" class="pageref">316</a></p>
+<p>Devil-worshippers, Yezidees or, <a href="#pb284" class=
+"pageref">284</a></p>
+<p>Difficult patients, <a href="#pb323" class=
+"pageref">323</a>&ndash;5</p>
+<p>Dinner, a Persian, <a href="#pb100" class="pageref">100</a></p>
+<p>Dinner-party, the Governor&rsquo;s, <a href="#pb82" class=
+"pageref">82</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Discoveries at Nineveh,&rdquo; Layard&rsquo;s, <a href=
+"#pb185" class="pageref">185</a></p>
+<p>Diseases in Mosul, the most frequent, <a href="#pb322" class=
+"pageref">322</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; native treatment of, <a href="#pb160" class=
+"pageref">160</a></p>
+<p>Divorce, easiness of, <a href="#pb103" class="pageref">103</a>,
+<a href="#pb232" class="pageref">232</a></p>
+<p>Dogs and the jackals, legend of the, <a href="#pb37" class=
+"pageref">37</a> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb331" href="#pb331"
+name="pb331">331</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Dream, a &ldquo;faked,&rdquo; how a gold watch was recovered,
+<a href="#pb262" class="pageref">262</a>;<br>
+the mullah&rsquo;s, <a href="#pb264" class="pageref">264</a>;<br>
+Indian servant&rsquo;s, <a href="#pb265" class="pageref">265</a></p>
+<p>Dreams and visions, the belief in, <a href="#pb260" class=
+"pageref">260</a>;<br>
+the soldiers in the ward, <a href="#pb267" class="pageref">267</a></p>
+<p>Drunken Moslem, the judge and the, <a href="#pb270" class=
+"pageref">270</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">E</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Eclipse at Yezd, effect of an, <a href="#pb21" class=
+"pageref">21</a></p>
+<p>Elburz Mountains, the, <a href="#pb51" class="pageref">51</a></p>
+<p>Elkosh, village of, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a></p>
+<p>Evil Eye, the, <a href="#pb250" class="pageref">250</a></p>
+<p>Eye diseases, prevalence of, <a href="#pb153" class=
+"pageref">153</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">F</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Fakirs, an order of priesthood amongst the Yezidees,
+<a href="#pb289" class="pageref">289</a></p>
+<p>Fasts, <a href="#pb108" class="pageref">108</a></p>
+<p>Fatalism, <a href="#pb217" class="pageref">217</a>;<br>
+of the women, <a href="#pb235" class="pageref">235</a></p>
+<p>Feasting at a birth, <a href="#pb211" class="pageref">211</a>;<br>
+weddings, <a href="#pb247" class="pageref">247</a>;<br>
+at funerals, <a href="#pb248" class="pageref">248</a>;<br>
+at Christmas and Easter, <a href="#pb254" class="pageref">254</a></p>
+<p>Ferry-boat on the Tigris, a, <a href="#pb207" class=
+"pageref">207</a></p>
+<p>Fever, native method of curing, <a href="#pb282" class=
+"pageref">282</a></p>
+<p>Fighting amongst women, <a href="#pb241" class="pageref">241</a></p>
+<p>Fire-worship among the Parsees, <a href="#pb121" class=
+"pageref">121</a></p>
+<p>Fruit and vegetables at Mosul, <a href="#pb183" class=
+"pageref">183</a></p>
+<p>Funerals, feasting at, <a href="#pb248" class="pageref">248</a>;<br>
+wailers, <a href="#pb248" class="pageref">248</a>;<br>
+custom after a death, <a href="#pb249" class="pageref">249</a>;<br>
+bitter coffee, <a href="#pb254" class="pageref">254</a></p>
+<p>Furs exported from Mosul, <a href="#pb184" class=
+"pageref">184</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">G</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first"><i>Galah i Doukhta</i>, or Fort of the Maiden,
+<a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a></p>
+<p>Galeem, a kind of rug, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a></p>
+<p>Gambling habit, the, <a href="#pb272" class="pageref">272</a></p>
+<p>Garden of Eden, the, <a href="#pb198" class="pageref">198</a></p>
+<p>Girl&rsquo;s birth, no celebrations at a, <a href="#pb215" class=
+"pageref">215</a>;<br>
+neglect of girls, <a href="#pb216" class="pageref">216</a>;<br>
+education, <a href="#pb217" class="pageref">217</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">H</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Hadji Hussein Pasha, repairs the walls of Mosul,
+<a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a></p>
+<p><i>Halawwi</i>, a sweetmeat, <a href="#pb183" class=
+"pageref">183</a></p>
+<p>Hamadan&eacute; Sultan&eacute;, Princess, <a href="#pb90" class=
+"pageref">90</a></p>
+<p><i>Hammam</i>, or bath, the, <a href="#pb65" class=
+"pageref">65</a>;<br>
+women&rsquo;s one place of recreation, <a href="#pb242" class=
+"pageref">242</a></p>
+<p>Hammam Ali, sulphur bath near Mosul, <a href="#pb195" class=
+"pageref">195</a></p>
+<p>Hareems of Mosul, the, <a href="#pb224" class="pageref">224</a>;<br>
+jealousy in, <a href="#pb229" class="pageref">229</a></p>
+<p>Hassain and Hussein, the mourning for, <a href="#pb109" class=
+"pageref">109</a>, <a href="#pb157" class="pageref">157</a></p>
+<p>Health of Europeans at Kerman, <a href="#pb58" class=
+"pageref">58</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Hereditary physicians,&rdquo; <a href="#pb318" class=
+"pageref">318</a></p>
+<p>Herodotus, mention of Kerman by, <a href="#pb31" class=
+"pageref">31</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Home life,&rdquo; lack of, <a href="#pb86" class=
+"pageref">86</a>, <a href="#pb231" class="pageref">231</a></p>
+<p>Horses, Arab, <a href="#pb310" class="pageref">310</a></p>
+<p><i>Hoze</i>, or water-tank, the, <a href="#pb54" class=
+"pageref">54</a></p>
+<p>Hunting, <a href="#pb69" class="pageref">69</a></p>
+<p>Husband, a brutal, <a href="#pb102" class="pageref">102</a></p>
+<p>Hydrophobia, how a sheikh averts, <a href="#pb282" class=
+"pageref">282</a></p>
+<p>Hysteria amongst Persian women, <a href="#pb161" class=
+"pageref">161</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">I</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Ice, how it is made at Isphahan, <a href="#pb53"
+class="pageref">53</a></p>
+<p>Industries of Persia, <a href="#pb40" class="pageref">40</a>,
+<a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>;<br>
+of Mosul, <a href="#pb183" class="pageref">183</a></p>
+<p>Irrigation about Mosul, <a href="#pb182" class=
+"pageref">182</a>;<br>
+Assyrian method, <a href="#pb184" class="pageref">184</a> <span class=
+"pagenum">[<a id="pb332" href="#pb332" name="pb332">332</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Irrigation of the Mesopotamian desert, the, <a href="#pb328" class=
+"pageref">328</a></p>
+<p>Isphahan, journey to, <a href="#pb17" class="pageref">17</a>;<br>
+arrival at, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; settlement of Armenians at, <a href="#pb28" class=
+"pageref">28</a>;<br>
+Europeans at, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>;<br>
+Jews at, <a href="#pb29" class="pageref">29</a>;<br>
+calico printing, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>;<br>
+brass-work of, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>;<br>
+poppy growing, <a href="#pb48" class="pageref">48</a>;<br>
+climate of, <a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a>;<br>
+ice-house, <a href="#pb53" class="pageref">53</a>;<br>
+social life, <a href="#pb71" class="pageref">71</a>;<br>
+Medical Mission, <a href="#pb141" class="pageref">141</a>;<br>
+population, <a href="#pb145" class="pageref">145</a>;<br>
+archbishops, <a href="#pb145" class="pageref">145</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">J</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Jackals of the desert, legend of the, <a href="#pb37"
+class="pageref">37</a></p>
+<p>Jacobite section of the Christian Church at Mosul, <a href="#pb190"
+class="pageref">190</a></p>
+<p>Jalal el Dowleh, H.R.H. the, <a href="#pb66" class="pageref">66</a>,
+<a href="#pb144" class="pageref">144</a>, <a href="#pb165" class=
+"pageref">165</a></p>
+<p>Jews, the, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>;<br>
+a degraded class, <a href="#pb29" class="pageref">29</a>;<br>
+of Mosul, <a href="#pb193" class="pageref">193</a></p>
+<p>Jezirah, village of, <a href="#pb177" class="pageref">177</a></p>
+<p>Jinns and goblins, belief in, <a href="#pb166" class=
+"pageref">166</a></p>
+<p>Jonah, the tomb of, <a href="#pb175" class="pageref">175</a></p>
+<p>Judy, mountain, <a href="#pb177" class="pageref">177</a></p>
+<p>Judy, our servant, superstitions of, <a href="#pb280" class=
+"pageref">280</a></p>
+<p>Julfa, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a>;<br>
+Armenians at, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>;<br>
+medical mission at, <a href="#pb141" class="pageref">141</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">K</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Ka&rsquo;aba at Mecca, the, <a href="#pb193" class=
+"pageref">193</a></p>
+<p>Kabobs, <a href="#pb225" class="pageref">225</a></p>
+<p><i>Kaj&acirc;vah</i>, the, as a means of travelling, <a href="#pb23"
+class="pageref">23</a>;<br>
+the government official and his wife, <a href="#pb24" class=
+"pageref">24</a></p>
+<p>Kalah Shurg&acirc;t, an Assyrian ruin, <a href="#pb179" class=
+"pageref">179</a></p>
+<p><i>Kalian</i>, the, or water-pipe, <a href="#pb49" class=
+"pageref">49</a></p>
+<p><i>Kalimat</i>, the, or declaration of faith, <a href="#pb106"
+class="pageref">106</a></p>
+<p><i>Kan&acirc;ts</i>, or tunnels for supplying water, <a href="#pb48"
+class="pageref">48</a></p>
+<p>Karduchi, the, or Parthians, <a href="#pb192" class=
+"pageref">192</a></p>
+<p>Kashan, silk-weaving at, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; the copper-work of, <a href="#pb47" class=
+"pageref">47</a></p>
+<p><i>Keleg</i>, or raft of the Tigris, <a href="#pb201" class=
+"pageref">201</a></p>
+<p>Kerman, medical work opened at, <a href="#pb17" class=
+"pageref">17</a>;<br>
+arrival at, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a>;<br>
+a cloud of locusts, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a>;<br>
+Jews at, <a href="#pb29" class="pageref">29</a>;<br>
+first view of, <a href="#pb30" class="pageref">30</a>;<br>
+derivation of the name, <a href="#pb31" class="pageref">31</a>;<br>
+antiquity of, <a href="#pb31" class="pageref">31</a>;<br>
+vicissitudes, <a href="#pb31" class="pageref">31</a>;<br>
+poverty of, <a href="#pb32" class="pageref">32</a>;<br>
+ancient Kerman, <a href="#pb33" class="pageref">33</a>;<br>
+legend of the jackals, <a href="#pb37" class="pageref">37</a>;<br>
+carpet-making, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a>;<br>
+children employed in carpet-weaving, <a href="#pb44" class=
+"pageref">44</a>;<br>
+shawl manufactories, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a>;<br>
+climate, <a href="#pb57" class="pageref">57</a>;<br>
+social life, <a href="#pb71" class="pageref">71</a>;<br>
+recreations, <a href="#pb79" class="pageref">79</a>;<br>
+Parsees, <a href="#pb120" class="pageref">120</a>;<br>
+establishment of Medical Mission, <a href="#pb151" class=
+"pageref">151</a>;<br>
+native surgery, <a href="#pb153" class="pageref">153</a>;<br>
+a trying operation, <a href="#pb155" class="pageref">155</a>;<br>
+an opium patient, <a href="#pb158" class="pageref">158</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; the beautiful traitress of, <a href="#pb36" class=
+"pageref">36</a></p>
+<p>Khan Baba Khan, the anderoon of, <a href="#pb88" class=
+"pageref">88</a></p>
+<p>Kissing the hand, <a href="#pb250" class="pageref">250</a></p>
+<p>Koork, a species of goat, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a></p>
+<p><i>Korsi</i>, the, or stove, <a href="#pb52" class=
+"pageref">52</a></p>
+<p>Kouyunjik, one of the mounds of Nineveh, <a href="#pb173" class=
+"pageref">173</a>, <a href="#pb175" class="pageref">175</a></p>
+<p>Kurdistan carpets, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a></p>
+<p>Kurds, the, <a href="#pb192" class="pageref">192</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">L</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first"><i>Lahaf</i>, the, or padded quilt, <a href="#pb52"
+class="pageref">52</a></p>
+<p>Landor, Mr. Savage, <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a></p>
+<p>Layard and the Yezidees, <a href="#pb286" class=
+"pageref">286</a></p>
+<p>Layard&rsquo;s &ldquo;Discoveries at Nineveh,&rdquo; <a href=
+"#pb185" class="pageref">185</a></p>
+<p>Leasing our house at Kerman, <a href="#pb72" class="pageref">72</a>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb333" href="#pb333" name=
+"pb333">333</a>]</span></p>
+<p><i>Lebban</i>, a species of junket, <a href="#pb226" class=
+"pageref">226</a></p>
+<p>Life on the roof, <a href="#pb56" class="pageref">56</a></p>
+<p>Lion and the Sun, origin of the symbol, <a href="#pb19" class=
+"pageref">19</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Little devil,&rdquo; the, <a href="#pb141" class=
+"pageref">141</a></p>
+<p>Locusts, <a href="#pb22" class="pageref">22</a></p>
+<p>Looms for carpet-weaving, <a href="#pb43" class="pageref">43</a></p>
+<p>Lost in the desert, <a href="#pb314" class="pageref">314</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">M</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">&ldquo;Magi,&rdquo; the, <a href="#pb120" class=
+"pageref">120</a></p>
+<p>Mahoon, our holiday at, <a href="#pb63" class="pageref">63</a></p>
+<p><i>Mahullah</i>, or quarter of the town, <a href="#pb226" class=
+"pageref">226</a></p>
+<p><i>Malek el Taous</i>, or peacock of the Yezidees, <a href="#pb286"
+class="pageref">286</a></p>
+<p>Marvan, the walls of Mosul built by, <a href="#pb178" class=
+"pageref">178</a></p>
+<p><i>Med&acirc;qal</i> of native servants, <a href="#pb18" class=
+"pageref">18</a></p>
+<p>Medical Missions, <a href="#pb140" class="pageref">140</a>;<br>
+at Kerman, <a href="#pb151" class="pageref">151</a>;<br>
+at Yezd, <a href="#pb164" class="pageref">164</a></p>
+<p>Mental diseases, an asylum for, <a href="#pb326" class=
+"pageref">326</a></p>
+<p>Mirages, <a href="#pb131" class="pageref">131</a></p>
+<p>Mirza Ali Muhammed, the founder of Babism, <a href="#pb116" class=
+"pageref">116</a></p>
+<p>Mirza Yahya, the second B&aacute;b, <a href="#pb119" class=
+"pageref">119</a></p>
+<p>Mohammed and the Jews, <a href="#pb193" class="pageref">193</a></p>
+<p>Mohurram, the month of, <a href="#pb109" class="pageref">109</a></p>
+<p>Mono-rail, an ancient, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a></p>
+<p>Mosaics of Shiraz, the, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a></p>
+<p>Moslems, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a></p>
+<p>Moslem women, <a href="#pb18" class="pageref">18</a></p>
+<p>Mosquitoes and sandflies, <a href="#pb90" class="pageref">90</a></p>
+<p>Mosul, fasting by the women of, <a href="#pb174" class=
+"pageref">174</a>;<br>
+bridge of boats, <a href="#pb176" class="pageref">176</a>;<br>
+conquered, <a href="#pb178" class="pageref">178</a>;<br>
+besieged by Saladin, <a href="#pb178" class="pageref">178</a>;<br>
+vicissitudes of, <a href="#pb178" class="pageref">178</a>;<br>
+climate, <a href="#pb179" class="pageref">179</a>;<br>
+spring, <a href="#pb181" class="pageref">181</a>;<br>
+rain, <a href="#pb181" class="pageref">181</a>;<br>
+cultivation, <a href="#pb182" class="pageref">182</a>;<br>
+industries, <a href="#pb183" class="pageref">183</a>;<br>
+population, <a href="#pb186" class="pageref">186</a>, <a href="#pb190"
+class="pageref">190</a>;<br>
+Mohammedans and Christians, <a href="#pb187" class=
+"pageref">187</a>;<br>
+Arabs, <a href="#pb190" class="pageref">190</a>;<br>
+Kurds, <a href="#pb192" class="pageref">192</a>;<br>
+Jews, <a href="#pb193" class="pageref">193</a>;<br>
+racing, <a href="#pb194" class="pageref">194</a>;<br>
+Hammam Ali, <a href="#pb195" class="pageref">195</a>;<br>
+children, <a href="#pb208" class="pageref">208</a>;<br>
+women, <a href="#pb219" class="pageref">219</a>;<br>
+hareems, <a href="#pb223" class="pageref">223</a>;<br>
+a census at, <a href="#pb301" class="pageref">301</a>;<br>
+disorders, <a href="#pb303" class="pageref">303</a>;<br>
+a woman doctor, <a href="#pb303" class="pageref">303</a>;<br>
+frequent robberies, <a href="#pb304" class="pageref">304</a>;<br>
+violence and murder, <a href="#pb305" class="pageref">305</a>;<br>
+surgery not much practised, <a href="#pb318" class=
+"pageref">318</a>;<br>
+interesting statistics, <a href="#pb321" class="pageref">321</a>;<br>
+a petition, <a href="#pb322" class="pageref">322</a>;<br>
+a cataract patient, <a href="#pb323" class="pageref">323</a>;<br>
+the Moslem priest, <a href="#pb324" class="pageref">324</a></p>
+<p><i>Mujtiheds</i>, or Moslem archbishops, <a href="#pb145" class=
+"pageref">145</a></p>
+<p>Mullah, the dead, <a href="#pb147" class="pageref">147</a></p>
+<p>Mullahs or priests, <a href="#pb107" class="pageref">107</a>,
+<a href="#pb113" class="pageref">113</a>;<br>
+their great influence, <a href="#pb114" class="pageref">114</a>,
+<a href="#pb145" class="pageref">145</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">N</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Nabbi Eunice, one of the mounds of Nineveh, <a href=
+"#pb173" class="pageref">173</a></p>
+<p>Nahar-as-Salam, or Tigris, <a href="#pb199" class=
+"pageref">199</a></p>
+<p>Nahum, the prophet, supposed burial-place of, <a href="#pb179"
+class="pageref">179</a></p>
+<p>Namads, species of carpet, <a href="#pb46" class=
+"pageref">46</a></p>
+<p>Names given according to a person&rsquo;s characteristic, <a href=
+"#pb274" class="pageref">274</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Naseeb,&rdquo; or &ldquo;Kismet,&rdquo; <a href="#pb217"
+class="pageref">217</a>, <a href="#pb235" class="pageref">235</a></p>
+<p>Natanz, the village of, <a href="#pb61" class="pageref">61</a></p>
+<p>Neamat &rsquo;Allah, our &ldquo;showman,&rdquo; <a href="#pb77"
+class="pageref">77</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Nerve&rdquo; trouble amongst Europeans, the cause of,
+<a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a></p>
+<p>Nestorians in Mosul, <a href="#pb189" class="pageref">189</a>;<br>
+massacre by Kurds, <a href="#pb190" class="pageref">190</a></p>
+<p>Nineveh, Kouyunjik, and Nabbi Eunice, <a href="#pb173" class=
+"pageref">173</a>;<br>
+remains of, <a href="#pb174" class="pageref">174</a>;<br>
+bridge of boats, <a href="#pb176" class="pageref">176</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">O</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Omar el Khattab, conqueror of Mosul, <a href="#pb178"
+class="pageref">178</a></p>
+<p>Operations, most frequent, <a href="#pb322" class=
+"pageref">322</a></p>
+<p>Opium cultivation, <a href="#pb49" class="pageref">49</a>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb334" href="#pb334" name=
+"pb334">334</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Opium habit, the, <a href="#pb75" class="pageref">75</a>;<br>
+in Yezd, <a href="#pb167" class="pageref">167</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; patient, an, <a href="#pb158" class=
+"pageref">158</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">P</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Parsee wedding, a, <a href="#pb123" class=
+"pageref">123</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; women and children, <a href="#pb122" class=
+"pageref">122</a></p>
+<p>Parsees or Zoroastrians, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>,
+<a href="#pb120" class="pageref">120</a>;<br>
+ceremony at death, <a href="#pb127" class="pageref">127</a></p>
+<p>Patchwork and embroidery of Resht, <a href="#pb46" class=
+"pageref">46</a></p>
+<p>Patriarch of the Nestorians, the, how he is chosen, <a href="#pb189"
+class="pageref">189</a></p>
+<p>Peacock, the, the symbol of the Yezidee religion, <a href="#pb286"
+class="pageref">286</a></p>
+<p>Persia, the Land of the Lion and the Sun, <a href="#pb19" class=
+"pageref">19</a>;<br>
+inhabitants of, <a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a>;<br>
+industries of, <a href="#pb40" class="pageref">40</a>;<br>
+agricultural industries of, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>;<br>
+climate of, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a></p>
+<p>Persian desert, illness in the, <a href="#pb17" class=
+"pageref">17</a></p>
+<p>Persians, procrastinating character of the, <a href="#pb60" class=
+"pageref">60</a>;<br>
+their politeness, <a href="#pb81" class="pageref">81</a>;<br>
+superstitions of the, <a href="#pb166" class="pageref">166</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; of to-day, the, <a href="#pb28" class=
+"pageref">28</a></p>
+<p>Phillott, Major, his fight against the sweating of children,
+<a href="#pb45" class="pageref">45</a></p>
+<p>Pilgrimages, <a href="#pb107" class="pageref">107</a></p>
+<p>Pirs, the, an order of priesthood amongst the Yezidees, <a href=
+"#pb287" class="pageref">287</a></p>
+<p>Poppy, the cultivation of the, <a href="#pb48" class=
+"pageref">48</a></p>
+<p>Prayer, the call to, <a href="#pb107" class="pageref">107</a></p>
+<p>Prayer stones in Sheikh &Acirc;di&rsquo;s shrine, <a href="#pb292"
+class="pageref">292</a></p>
+<p>Prince&rsquo;s vagaries, a, <a href="#pb92" class=
+"pageref">92</a></p>
+<p>Pulivagoon, the village of, <a href="#pb62" class=
+"pageref">62</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">Q</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Quacks, native, <a href="#pb160" class=
+"pageref">160</a>, <a href="#pb165" class="pageref">165</a>;<br>
+in Mosul, <a href="#pb318" class="pageref">318</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">R</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Rafts on the Tigris, <a href="#pb200" class=
+"pageref">200</a></p>
+<p>Rain at Mosul, <a href="#pb181" class="pageref">181</a></p>
+<p>Rain in Persia, <a href="#pb20" class="pageref">20</a></p>
+<p>Rainfall in Resht, the, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a></p>
+<p>Ramadan, the month of, <a href="#pb108" class="pageref">108</a></p>
+<p>Rassam, Mr., and the Yezidees, <a href="#pb285" class=
+"pageref">285</a></p>
+<p>Recreations of Kerman, <a href="#pb79" class="pageref">79</a></p>
+<p>Religious bodies, <a href="#pb112" class="pageref">112</a></p>
+<p>Resht, silk-weaving, patchwork, and embroidery of, <a href="#pb46"
+class="pageref">46</a>;<br>
+rainfall, <a href="#pb50" class="pageref">50</a></p>
+<p>Rest-houses of Persia, the, <a href="#pb132" class=
+"pageref">132</a></p>
+<p>Riding, a way of travelling in Persia, <a href="#pb23" class=
+"pageref">23</a></p>
+<p>Robbers of the desert, the, <a href="#pb311" class=
+"pageref">311</a></p>
+<p>Roof, life on the, <a href="#pb56" class="pageref">56</a></p>
+<p>Rustem, our parlour-maid, <a href="#pb77" class="pageref">77</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">S</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Saladin, siege of Mosul by, <a href="#pb178" class=
+"pageref">178</a>, <a href="#pb192" class="pageref">192</a></p>
+<p>Sand-storms, <a href="#pb21" class="pageref">21</a></p>
+<p>Satan, the Yezidees&rsquo; idea of, <a href="#pb286" class=
+"pageref">286</a></p>
+<p><i>Savabs</i>, or good works, the doctrine of, <a href="#pb156"
+class="pageref">156</a></p>
+<p>Scent, superstition about, <a href="#pb277" class=
+"pageref">277</a></p>
+<p>Scorpions at Yezd, <a href="#pb55" class="pageref">55</a></p>
+<p>Servant problem at Kerman, the, <a href="#pb75" class=
+"pageref">75</a></p>
+<p>Servants, cheating by native, <a href="#pb18" class=
+"pageref">18</a></p>
+<p>Seyyids, the, a religious body, <a href="#pb113" class=
+"pageref">113</a></p>
+<p>Shammar clan of Arabs, the, <a href="#pb191" class=
+"pageref">191</a></p>
+<p>Shawl manufactories in Kerman, <a href="#pb46" class=
+"pageref">46</a></p>
+<p>Sheikh &Acirc;di, the patron saint of the Yezidees, <a href="#pb287"
+class="pageref">287</a>;<br>
+shrine of the serpent on the porch, <a href="#pb291" class=
+"pageref">291</a>;<br>
+a great teacher, <a href="#pb291" class="pageref">291</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; Matti, superstition about, <a href="#pb281" class=
+"pageref">281</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; Naser, high-priest of the Yezidees, <a href="#pb284"
+class="pageref">284</a></p>
+<p>Sheikhs, an order of priesthood amongst the Yezidees, <a href=
+"#pb287" class="pageref">287</a> <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb335"
+href="#pb335" name="pb335">335</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Shiah Mohammedans, <a href="#pb113" class="pageref">113</a></p>
+<p>Shiraz, the silver-work of, <a href="#pb47" class=
+"pageref">47</a>;<br>
+mosaics of, <a href="#pb47" class="pageref">47</a>;<br>
+the birthplace of the B&aacute;b, <a href="#pb116" class=
+"pageref">116</a></p>
+<p>Silk-weaving in Persia, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a></p>
+<p>Silver-work of Shiraz, the, <a href="#pb47" class=
+"pageref">47</a></p>
+<p><i>Sird&acirc;bs</i>, or underground rooms, <a href="#pb180" class=
+"pageref">180</a></p>
+<p>Social customs:<br>
+kissing the hand, <a href="#pb250" class="pageref">250</a>;<br>
+rising, <a href="#pb251" class="pageref">251</a>;<br>
+sending trays of cooked meats, <a href="#pb252" class=
+"pageref">252</a>;<br>
+distributing food, <a href="#pb252" class="pageref">252</a>;<br>
+giving coffee, <a href="#pb253" class="pageref">253</a>;<br>
+bread-making, <a href="#pb255" class="pageref">255</a></p>
+<p>Specialist in mental diseases, a, <a href="#pb326" class=
+"pageref">326</a></p>
+<p>Statistics of the Mosul Medical Mission, <a href="#pb321" class=
+"pageref">321</a></p>
+<p>Storks, superstition about, <a href="#pb279" class=
+"pageref">279</a></p>
+<p>Stuart, Dr. Emmeline, <a href="#pb150" class="pageref">150</a></p>
+<p>Suleyman Khan, execution of, <a href="#pb119" class=
+"pageref">119</a></p>
+<p>Summer at Isphahan, <a href="#pb52" class="pageref">52</a>;<br>
+at Yezd, <a href="#pb53" class="pageref">53</a></p>
+<p>Sun, the, the emblem of the Fire Worshippers, <a href="#pb19" class=
+"pageref">19</a></p>
+<p>Sunnis, <a href="#pb113" class="pageref">113</a></p>
+<p>Sunset effects in the desert, <a href="#pb131" class=
+"pageref">131</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; a wonderful, <a href="#pb258" class=
+"pageref">258</a></p>
+<p>Sunshine, Persia a land of, <a href="#pb19" class=
+"pageref">19</a></p>
+<p>Superstitions of the Persians, <a href="#pb60" class=
+"pageref">60</a>, <a href="#pb166" class="pageref">166</a>;<br>
+about scent, <a href="#pb277" class="pageref">277</a>;<br>
+storks, <a href="#pb277" class="pageref">277</a>;<br>
+how to cure sore eyes, <a href="#pb280" class="pageref">280</a>;<br>
+killing goats and sheep, <a href="#pb281" class="pageref">281</a>;<br>
+Sheikh matti, <a href="#pb281" class="pageref">281</a>;<br>
+to cure fever and avert hydrophobia, <a href="#pb282" class=
+"pageref">282</a></p>
+<p>Surgery, native, <a href="#pb153" class="pageref">153</a>;<br>
+not much practised in Mosul, <a href="#pb318" class=
+"pageref">318</a></p>
+<p>Swearing, prevalence of, <a href="#pb240" class=
+"pageref">240</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">T</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Tabriz, <a href="#pb117" class="pageref">117</a></p>
+<p><i>Takhtiravan</i>, the, as a means of travelling, <a href="#pb25"
+class="pageref">25</a></p>
+<p>Tea, Persian, <a href="#pb99" class="pageref">99</a></p>
+<p>Teheran, arrival in, <a href="#pb26" class="pageref">26</a>;<br>
+the climate of, <a href="#pb51" class="pageref">51</a>;<br>
+social life, <a href="#pb71" class="pageref">71</a>;<br>
+execution of the B&aacute;b, <a href="#pb118" class=
+"pageref">118</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Telling the Beads,&rdquo; <a href="#pb67" class=
+"pageref">67</a></p>
+<p>Theft, prevalence of petty, <a href="#pb238" class=
+"pageref">238</a></p>
+<p>Tigris, the, frozen, <a href="#pb180" class="pageref">180</a>;<br>
+navigation of the, <a href="#pb184" class="pageref">184</a>, <a href=
+"#pb198" class="pageref">198</a>;<br>
+Hiddekel, <a href="#pb199" class="pageref">199</a>;<br>
+steamers on, <a href="#pb200" class="pageref">200</a>;<br>
+bathing, <a href="#pb203" class="pageref">203</a>;<br>
+fishing, <a href="#pb206" class="pageref">206</a>;<br>
+the ferry-boat, <a href="#pb207" class="pageref">207</a>;<br>
+importance of the navigation of, <a href="#pb328" class=
+"pageref">328</a></p>
+<p>Tobacco growing, <a href="#pb49" class="pageref">49</a></p>
+<p>Towers of Silence, the, <a href="#pb128" class="pageref">128</a></p>
+<p>Travelling in Persia, different ways of, <a href="#pb23" class=
+"pageref">23</a>, <a href="#pb63" class="pageref">63</a>, <a href=
+"#pb66" class="pageref">66</a>;<br>
+in the desert, <a href="#pb131" class="pageref">131</a>, <a href=
+"#pb294" class="pageref">294</a></p>
+<p>Truth lightly regarded, <a href="#pb237" class="pageref">237</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">U</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Umayya, an ancient tribe, <a href="#pb178" class=
+"pageref">178</a></p>
+<p>Uncle Goro of Tel Kaif, the story of, <a href="#pb273" class=
+"pageref">273</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">V</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Visiting in Mosul, <a href="#pb226" class=
+"pageref">226</a>&ndash;8</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">W</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Wagons as a means of travelling, <a href="#pb25"
+class="pageref">25</a></p>
+<p>Wailers, professional, at funerals, <a href="#pb248" class=
+"pageref">248</a></p>
+<p>Walling-up as a capital punishment, <a href="#pb138" class=
+"pageref">138</a></p>
+<p>Water-supply, the, <a href="#pb48" class="pageref">48</a></p>
+<p>Weaving at Mosul, <a href="#pb183" class="pageref">183</a></p>
+<p>&ldquo;Weavers,&rdquo; children employed as, <a href="#pb44" class=
+"pageref">44</a></p>
+<p>Wedding, a, <a href="#pb97" class="pageref">97</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; among the Parsees, a, <a href="#pb123" class=
+"pageref">123</a></p>
+<p>Weddings, marriage portions, <a href="#pb244" class=
+"pageref">244</a>;<br>
+negotiations, <a href="#pb245" class="pageref">245</a>;<br>
+preliminary feasting, <a href="#pb247" class="pageref">247</a>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb336" href="#pb336" name=
+"pb336">336</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Wheat and barley, the cultivation of, <a href="#pb49" class=
+"pageref">49</a></p>
+<p>Women, curiosity of the, <a href="#pb62" class="pageref">62</a>;<br>
+characters, <a href="#pb84" class="pageref">84</a>;<br>
+anderoons, <a href="#pb68" class="pageref">68</a>, <a href="#pb87"
+class="pageref">87</a>;<br>
+costume, <a href="#pb95" class="pageref">95</a>;<br>
+as beauty specialists, <a href="#pb104" class="pageref">104</a>;<br>
+cruel and revengeful nature of, <a href="#pb105" class=
+"pageref">105</a>;<br>
+Parsee, <a href="#pb122" class="pageref">122</a>;<br>
+hysteria amongst, <a href="#pb161" class="pageref">161</a>;<br>
+Arab, <a href="#pb191" class="pageref">191</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; of Mosul, the, <a href="#pb219" class=
+"pageref">219</a>;<br>
+types, <a href="#pb219" class="pageref">219</a>, <a href="#pb220"
+class="pageref">220</a>;<br>
+aids to beauty, <a href="#pb221" class="pageref">221</a>;<br>
+hopeless condition of, <a href="#pb223" class="pageref">223</a>;<br>
+want of love in the life of, <a href="#pb230" class=
+"pageref">230</a>;<br>
+facility of divorce, <a href="#pb232" class="pageref">232</a>;<br>
+and Paradise, <a href="#pb235" class="pageref">235</a>;<br>
+<i>Naseeb</i>, <a href="#pb235" class="pageref">235</a>;<br>
+fighting amongst, <a href="#pb241" class="pageref">241</a>;<br>
+the <i>hammam</i>, <a href="#pb242" class="pageref">242</a>;<br>
+never know their age, <a href="#pb276" class="pageref">276</a>;<br>
+superstitious, <a href="#pb277" class="pageref">277</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">Y</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first"><i>Yakh khaneh</i>, the, or ice-house, <a href="#pb53"
+class="pageref">53</a></p>
+<p>Yezd, a City of Sand, <a href="#pb19" class="pageref">19</a>;<br>
+the effect of an eclipse at, <a href="#pb21" class=
+"pageref">21</a>;<br>
+Jews at, <a href="#pb29" class="pageref">29</a>;<br>
+silk-weaving, <a href="#pb46" class="pageref">46</a>;<br>
+the hot season, <a href="#pb53" class="pageref">53</a>;<br>
+the &ldquo;chimneys&rdquo; of, <a href="#pb54" class=
+"pageref">54</a>;<br>
+cellars as dwelling-rooms, <a href="#pb54" class="pageref">54</a>;<br>
+scorpions, <a href="#pb55" class="pageref">55</a>;<br>
+Prince and Princess, <a href="#pb92" class="pageref">92</a>;<br>
+persecution of Babis, <a href="#pb119" class="pageref">119</a>;<br>
+Parsees, <a href="#pb120" class="pageref">120</a>;<br>
+fire temples, <a href="#pb122" class="pageref">122</a>;<br>
+brick pillars, <a href="#pb139" class="pageref">139</a>;<br>
+Medical Mission, <a href="#pb164" class="pageref">164</a>;<br>
+opium habit, <a href="#pb167" class="pageref">167</a></p>
+<p>Yezidees, or devil-worshippers, <a href="#pb284" class=
+"pageref">284</a>;<br>
+Mohammedan bitterness against them, <a href="#pb284" class=
+"pageref">284</a>;<br>
+tenets of, <a href="#pb285" class="pageref">285</a>;<br>
+Layard and the, <a href="#pb286" class="pageref">286</a>;<br>
+the peacock, <a href="#pb286" class="pageref">286</a>;<br>
+fire-worship, <a href="#pb287" class="pageref">287</a>;<br>
+orders of priesthood, <a href="#pb287" class="pageref">287</a>;<br>
+prayer stones, <a href="#pb292" class="pageref">292</a>;<br>
+costume, <a href="#pb292" class="pageref">292</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div2 letter"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divHead">
+<h3 class="main">Z</h3>
+</div>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first">Zendavesta, or sacred book of the Parsees, <a href=
+"#pb121" class="pageref">121</a></p>
+<p>Zil-es-Sultan, anderoon of the, <a href="#pb93" class=
+"pageref">93</a></p>
+<p>&mdash;&mdash; Governor of Isphahan, <a href="#pb143" class=
+"pageref">143</a>, <a href="#pb165" class="pageref">165</a></p>
+<p>Zoroaster, <a href="#pb120" class="pageref">120</a></p>
+<p>Zoroastrians, or Parsees, <a href="#pb19" class="pageref">19</a>,
+<a href="#pb28" class="pageref">28</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="div1 imprint"><span class="pagenum">[<a href=
+"#toc">Contents</a>]</span>
+<div class="divBody">
+<p class="first xd20e119">Printed by <span class="sc">Ballantyne,
+Hanson &amp; Co.</span></p>
+<p class="xd20e119">Edinburgh &amp; London</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="transcribernote">
+<h2 class="main">Colophon</h2>
+<h3 class="main">Availability</h3>
+<p class="first">This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no
+cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give
+it away or re-use it under the terms of the <a class="exlink xd20e41"
+title="External link" href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license" rel=
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+at <a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href=
+"http://www.pgdp.net/">www.pgdp.net</a>.</p>
+<p>Scans of this work are available from the Internet Archive
+(<a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href=
+"http://archive.org/details/behindveilinpers00humeiala">1</a>,
+<a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href=
+"http://archive.org/details/behindveilinpers00humeuoft">2</a>,
+<a class="exlink xd20e41" title="External link" href=
+"http://archive.org/details/BehindTheVeilInPersiaAndTurkishArabia">3</a>).</p>
+<p>Related Library of Congress catalog page: <a class="catlink" href=
+"http://lccn.loc.gov/49043449">49043449</a>.</p>
+<p>Related Open Library catalog page (for source): <a class="catlink"
+href="http://openlibrary.org/books/OL7087788M">OL7087788M</a>.</p>
+<p>Related Open Library catalog page (for work): <a class="catlink"
+href="http://openlibrary.org/works/OL7433576W">OL7433576W</a>.</p>
+<p>Related WorldCat catalog page: <a class="catlink" href=
+"http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/697896646">697896646</a>.</p>
+<h3 class="main">Encoding</h3>
+<p class="first"></p>
+<h3 class="main">Revision History</h3>
+<ul>
+<li>2012-04-10 Started.</li>
+</ul>
+<h3 class="main">External References</h3>
+<p>This Project Gutenberg eBook contains external references. These
+links may not work for you.</p>
+<h3 class="main">Corrections</h3>
+<p>The following corrections have been applied to the text:</p>
+<table class="correctiontable" summary=
+"Overview of corrections applied to the text.">
+<tr>
+<th>Page</th>
+<th>Source</th>
+<th>Correction</th>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e913">21</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">,</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">[<i>Deleted</i>]</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1075">38</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">instal</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">install</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1388">72</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">[<i>Not in source</i>]</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e1568">91</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Sultan&ecirc;</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Sultan&eacute;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2019">140</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Yezedee</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Yezidee</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2244">164</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Ispahan</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Isphahan</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e2490">188</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Pic-nic</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Picnic</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd20e4526">330</a></td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Dakhnehs</td>
+<td class="width40 bottom">Dakhmehs</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia, by
+M. E. Hume-Griffith and A. Hume-Griffith
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia
+       An account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence
+       amongst the Women of the East
+
+Author: M. E. Hume-Griffith
+        A. Hume-Griffith
+
+Release Date: April 16, 2012 [EBook #39463]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEHIND THE VEIL IN PERSIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project
+Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously
+made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+              BEHIND THE VEIL IN PERSIA AND TURKISH ARABIA
+
+   An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the
+                           Women of the East
+
+                                   By
+                          M. E. HUME-GRIFFITH
+
+            With Narratives of Experiences in Both Countries
+                                   By
+                     A. Hume-Griffith, M.D., D.P.H.
+
+                    With 37 Illustrations and a Map
+
+
+                              Philadelphia
+                        J. B. Lippincott Company
+                       London: Seeley & Co. Ltd.
+
+                                  1909
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                               I DEDICATE
+                               THIS BOOK
+                                   TO
+                               MY HUSBAND
+                        IN LOVING REMEMBRANCE OF
+                           EIGHT HAPPY YEARS
+                               1900-1908
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+I have endeavoured in this book to give some account of that inner life
+of the East of which a traveller, however keen-sighted and intelligent,
+seldom gains more than a passing glimpse. In a residence of eight years
+in Persia and Turkish Arabia I have become intimate with a large circle
+of friends whose life is passed behind the veil, and as the wife of
+a medical missionary I have had unusual opportunities of winning
+their confidence and becoming acquainted with their thoughts. Of
+direct missionary effort I have said very little, but I hope that
+the picture I have given may arouse interest in lives spent amongst
+surroundings so different from our own.
+
+It is impossible for any one, however unversed in politics, who has
+lived so long in Mesopotamia, not to be deeply interested in the future
+of the country. While all Europe has been filled with astonishment at
+the bloodless revolution in Turkey, we who have become familiar with
+its inner life are touched with a feeling of admiration and something
+akin to awe. Whatever misgivings there may be as to the permanence
+of this reformation we hope and trust that it will endure.
+
+Of one imminent change the effect is likely to be far-reaching. The
+new government has secured the services of Sir William Wilcox as
+their adviser in great irrigation schemes. Irrigation in Mesopotamia
+will change the whole face of the country; vast stretches of desert
+will be transformed into a garden, ruined villages will be restored,
+a new kingdom may be born, and Babylon possibly rebuilt. Mosul,
+practically on the site of ancient Nineveh, will become easy of
+access from Europe by means of the Baghdad railway and the restored
+navigation of the Tigris. Its waste places may be filled with corn,
+and the city be crowned once more with some of its ancient glory.
+
+I should like to take this opportunity of thanking all those who
+have kindly allowed me to use their photographs, amongst them the
+Rev. C. H. Stileman, Dr. Saati of Mosul, and the Publishing Department
+of the Church Missionary Society.
+
+I am indebted to Professor Brown's valuable book entitled "A Year
+amongst the Persians" for information on the Babi religion, and to
+Sir A. H. Layard's classical work on the excavations of Nineveh,
+which I have frequently had occasion to consult.
+
+
+M. E. H.-G.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+
+Part I
+
+
+Chapter I
+
+Early Impressions
+                                                                   Page
+
+    Start for Persia--Arrival at Isphahan--Departure for
+    Kerman--The Land of the Lion and the Sun--A rainy day and its
+    effects--Eclipse--Locusts--Sand-storms--Land of cats--Modes of
+    conveyance--Inhabitants                                          17
+
+
+Chapter II
+
+Kerman
+
+    Short history of Kerman--Its overthrow--City of beggars--Story
+    of the fort--The jackal's "tale of woe"                          30
+
+
+Chapter III
+
+Persian Industries
+
+    Carpet-making--How to tell a good carpet--How
+    to make a carpet--The cry of the children--Shawl
+    manufactures--Calico-printing--Brass-work--Agricultural
+    industries--Water disputes--Kanats--Poppy crops--Wheat and
+    corn--Tobacco-growing                                            40
+
+
+Chapter IV
+
+The Climate of Persia
+
+    Resht, Teheran, Isphahan--Dryness of atmosphere--Cellars--Roof
+    life--Children attacked by jackals--Chequered history of work in
+    Kerman                                                           50
+
+
+Chapter V
+
+Holidays in Persia
+
+    How to ensure a prosperous journey--Natanz--Astonishment of natives
+    at sight of hairpins--Pulivagoon--Mahoon--Aliabad--Prince under
+    canvas--Visit from a Persian princess--A Persian deer hunt       59
+
+
+Chapter VI
+
+Social Life in Persia
+
+    Kerman--House-hunting and building--White ants--Housekeeping
+    in Kerman--Servant question--Truth v. falsehood--Abdul
+    Fateh--Bagi--Recreations--Some exciting rides--Persian
+    etiquette--Dinner at the governor's                              71
+
+
+Chapter VII
+
+The Women of Persia
+
+    Home Life--Anderoon, women's quarters--Jealousy in
+    the anderoon--Anderoon of Khan Baba Khan--Two days in an
+    anderoon--H.R.H. Princess Hamadane Sultane--Visit to the anderoon
+    of H.R.H. the Zil-es-Sultan                                      84
+
+
+Chapter VIII
+
+More About Persian Women
+
+    Costumes--Wedding festivities--Wedding dinner--Kindness of Persian
+    husbands--Story of brutality--Divorce--Aids to beauty--Degradation
+    and cruelty of women                                             95
+
+
+Chapter IX
+
+Some Points in the Moslem Faith
+
+    Fasts and feasts--Seyyids, Dervishes, Mullahs--Legends of the
+    drowning mullah, and the yard-square hole                       106
+
+
+Chapter X
+
+Other Religious Sects
+
+    The Bab and Babism--Short sketch of life of the Bab--His
+    imprisonment and execution--Parsees, or Zoroastrians--Persecutions
+    of Parsees in seventh century--Sacred writings of Parsees,
+    Zendavesta--Fire-worshipping--Fire temples--Holy fire--Parsee
+    wedding--Costume of women--Death customs--Burial customs        116
+
+
+Chapter XI
+
+Desert Delights
+
+    Songs of the desert--Sunsets, sunrises, mirages--Illness in the
+    desert--Mehman khanehs, caravanserais--Chappa khanehs--Lost in
+    the desert--Its cruelties and sadness                           130
+
+
+Chapter XII
+
+Persian Medical Missions
+
+    The need of them--Work in Isphahan--The "little devil" transformed
+    into a boy--Amputation--Brothers in adversity--H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan
+    as a patient--Fanaticism overcome                               140
+
+
+Chapter XIII
+
+Pioneer Medical Mission Work in Kerman
+
+    Waiting for drugs and instruments--Native assistant proves
+    a broken reed--First operation in Kerman--An anxious
+    moment--Success--Doctrine of "savab" convenient to the
+    Moslem--Fanaticism tempered with prudence--Opium slaves--Persian
+    therapeutics--Persian quacks and their methods--Sure way of curing
+    cancer--Hysteria                                                151
+
+
+Chapter XIV
+
+Medical Mission Work in Yezd
+
+    A hospital--A friendly governor--A suspicious
+    case--Superstition--The opium habit--A case of cataract--We return
+    to England                                                      164
+
+
+
+
+Part II
+
+
+Chapter I
+
+The City of Nineveh
+
+    The fast of Jonah--The bridge of boats--Traditions as
+    to ancient history of Mosul--Elkos, birthplace of Nahum
+    the prophet--Shurgat--Climate of Mosul--Cultivation and
+    industries--Importance of Mosul                                 173
+
+
+Chapter II
+
+The People of Mosul
+
+    Population--Moslems--Christians--Chaldeans--Nestorians--Jacobites
+    --Arabs--Kurds--Jews--Yezidees--Recreations--Warfare
+    of the slingers--Hammam Ali--The recreation ground of Mosul men
+    and women                                                       186
+
+
+Chapter III
+
+The River Tigris
+
+    Ancient historical interest--Garden of Eden--Origin of name
+    unknown--Swiftness--Sources--Navigation--Keleqs--Bathing, fishing,
+    washing--Crossing rivers                                        198
+
+
+Chapter IV
+
+The Children of Mosul
+
+    Spoiling process--Despair of the parents--The "god" of the
+    hareem--Death by burning--Festivities at birth of boy--Cradles
+    and cradle songs--School life--Feast in honour of a boy having
+    read the Koran through--"Only a girl"--Girl life--Girl victims
+    of Naseeb--Marriage                                             208
+
+
+Chapter V
+
+The Moslem Women of Mosul
+
+    Beauty behind the veil--Types of beauty--My dear old friend of 110
+    years of age--Aids to beauty described--Pretty children--Beauty
+    tainted with sin--Imprisonment of women--Peeps into some
+    hareems--Warm receptions--A visit from the ladies of a select
+    hareem--Love the magic key to open hearts                       219
+
+
+Chapter VI
+
+Moslem Family Life
+
+    No home life--Women equal with the beasts--Evils
+    of divorce--Naseeb--The will of God--Truth and
+    falsehood--Honesty prevalent--A thief caught--Swearing and
+    anti-swearing--Fighting--Hair-tearing and biting--Hammam, the
+    ladies' club                                                    231
+
+
+Chapter VII
+
+Customs of Mosul
+
+    Wedding ceremonies--Great expense to parents--Method of
+    procedure--Funeral customs--Customs at birth--Some other customs
+                                                                    244
+
+
+Chapter VIII
+
+Dreams and Visions
+
+    Ezekiel's vision by the river Chebar--Our vision by the river
+    Khabour--Rivers identical--"A wheel within a wheel"--Babylonish
+    emblem of divinity--Origin of the cherubim--Dream of a woman
+    suffering from cataract--Effect of dream on her character--Watch
+    and chain recovered by means of a "faked" dream--Illustration
+    of the doctrine of Kismet or Naseeb--"Ghosts" in our
+    compound--Atmosphere of ghosts bad for fowls                    257
+
+
+Chapter IX
+
+Manners and Superstitions in Mosul
+
+    Characteristics of inhabitants of Mosul--Social habits--Love of
+    drink--An effectual cure--Gambling--Tel Kaif: a story of Uncle
+    Goro--The Angel of Death, and other titles--Difficulties over
+    name and age--Some superstitions--Effect of scent on women--Birds
+    of good omen--Thieves--Sheep-killing--Sheikh Matti--An angel's
+    visit--Medical superstitions--Cure for hydrophobia              269
+
+
+Chapter X
+
+The Yezidees
+
+    Gratitude to the English--Persecutions--"Devil-worshippers"--Sun
+    and fire worship--Priesthood--A visit to Sheikh Adi--Peacock
+    wands--A sacred shrine                                          284
+
+
+Chapter XI
+
+Travelling in the Desert
+
+    Monotony of desert travelling--A puppy and a kitten
+    tragedy--Accident by the river Euphrates--Riots in Mosul--Robberies
+    and murder excited by love of gold                              294
+
+
+Chapter XII
+
+The Pleasures of Desert Travelling
+
+    Desert blossoms as a rose--Flowers of the desert--Arabs, their
+    occupation and women--Arab dancing--Robbers of the desert--An
+    army of 10,000--Five hundred armed men--False alarms--Lost in
+    the desert--Delights and disturbances of travelling             307
+
+
+Chapter XIII
+
+Pioneer Medical Mission Work in Mosul (Nineveh)
+
+    Winning the confidence of the people--Native surgery--Difficulties
+    to be overcome--Backward patients--Encouraging work--Prevalent
+    diseases--Lunatics--Possible future of Mesopotamia              317
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                                   Page
+    The Author and her Husband in Bakhtian Costume         Frontispiece
+    Persian Conveyances                                              26
+    A Halt for Lunch                                                 26
+    A Novel Drying Ground                                            46
+    Persian Mode of Irrigation                                       46
+    A "Chimney" of Yezd                                              54
+    A Korsi Or Heating Contrivance                                   54
+    House-building in Persia                                         72
+    Persian Shops                                                    72
+    Scene from the Roof of our House at Kerman                       76
+    A Street in Kerman                                               76
+    The Mosque Gate, City of Kerman                                  86
+    A Mountain Pass                                                 132
+    A Caravanserai                                                  132
+    A Very Ancient Bridge                                           142
+    A Typical Street in Baghdad                                     142
+    Using the X Rays in Julfa Hospital                              148
+    A Ward in the Julfa Hospital                                    148
+    Opium Making                                                    158
+    The Rich Beggar                                                 158
+    Types of Persian Jews                                           166
+    The Water Square                                                166
+    Our Home in Nineveh                                             174
+    A Bridge of Boats                                               176
+    The Bridge of Boats Over the Frozen Tigris                      180
+    A Picnic Party                                                  188
+    Mutrar Paulus, Syrian Roman Catholic Bishop                     192
+    Dr. Hume-Griffith's Study in Mosul                              210
+    Our Drawing-room in Julfa                                       210
+    A Group of Persian Girls                                        216
+    The Camera in Mosul                                             222
+    Tired of Play at a Picnic                                       222
+    An Itinerant Cook preparing Kabobs                              224
+    Bread-making                                                    240
+    A Mosul Bride                                                   246
+    A Wonderful Vision                                              259
+    Travelling in Winter                                            296
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+PART I
+
+
+                   "So, after the sore torments of the route,
+                    Toothache and headache, and the ache of mind,
+                    And huddled sleep and smarting wakefulness,
+                    And night and day, and hunger sick at food,
+                    And twenty-fold relays, and packages
+                    To be unlocked, and passports to be found,
+                    And heavy well-kept landscape--we are glad
+                    Because we entered (Persia) in the Sun."
+
+                                                         D. G. Rossetti.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+BEHIND THE VEIL IN PERSIA AND TURKISH ARABIA
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+EARLY IMPRESSIONS
+
+    Start for Persia--Arrival at Isphahan--Departure for
+    Kerman--The Land of the Lion and the Sun--A rainy day and its
+    effects--Eclipse--Locusts--Sand-storms--Land of cats--Modes of
+    conveyance--Inhabitants.
+
+
+                   "'Tis the sight of a lifetime to behold
+                    The great shorn sun as you see it now
+                    Across eight miles of undulant gold
+                    That widens landward, weltered and rolled
+                    With patches of shadow and crimson stains."
+
+                                                                 Lowell.
+
+
+    "Shadow maker, shadow slayer, arrowing light from clime to clime."
+
+                                                          Lord Tennyson.
+
+
+Our life in Persia extended over a period of three years, dating from
+the spring of 1900 to that of 1903.
+
+It was with great joy I heard the news, early in February of 1900,
+that my husband had been appointed by the Church Missionary Society
+to open medical work in Kerman, and that we were to start almost at
+once. Within a month we were married, had bought our outfit, bid
+sorrowful farewells to our relations and friends, and started for
+the romantic land of Persia. From London to Isphahan took us just
+nine weeks, as we were delayed by illness for some weeks both in
+Russia and in the Persian Desert. However, on 9th May we entered the
+beautiful city of Isphahan, to find a warm welcome awaiting us from
+friends there. This place will always have a very warm corner in my
+heart, for it was there we made our first home. The doctor in charge
+of the work at Julfa (the Christian quarter of Isphahan) having left
+on furlough, my husband was asked to remain there till his return,
+which he accordingly did. It was not till the following spring that
+we left for Kerman. Thus our first impressions of this land of light
+and darkness were gathered from Isphahan and its neighbourhood. There
+is no after time so full of interest to those who live abroad as the
+first year spent in a new life and country, gleaning fresh ideas,
+seeing new sights, gaining experiences often dearly bought, but which
+must be purchased ere the newcomer can settle down to life in the
+East with any comfort or peace of mind.
+
+The native servants love to obtain posts with fresh comers, knowing
+that for the first few months, at any rate, they will have an
+exceedingly good time, being able to make a huge medaqal (profit)
+from the unsuspecting Feringhi. I sigh to think of the many ways in
+which we were cheated those first few months of our life in Persia,
+but no one breathed a word to us, realising that our eyes would be
+opened only too soon, and that experience was the most effectual
+teacher. It is a strange fact that all housekeepers new to the land
+think their servants are perfect till they find out, perhaps when
+too late, their foolish delusion.
+
+From the very first my heart went out in affection to the dear Moslem
+women, and now, after eight years spent amongst them, I can truly
+say that my love has deepened, and my sympathies become enlarged,
+for these charming but, alas, too often unhappy followers of Mohammed.
+
+Our knowledge of Persia extends especially to three cities, in each of
+which we spent a year. Isphahan, as we have seen, was our first home,
+then came a year at Kerman, a distance of some 500 miles separating
+the two cities. Finally we spent a very happy year at Yezd, that
+City of Sand, situated midway between Isphahan and Kerman. Of each
+of these cities we shall hear more in other chapters.
+
+Persia has well been called the Land of the Lion and the Sun. Certainly
+the latter name is well deserved, for the sun is almost always shining,
+and without the brilliant sunshine we should hardly recognise it as
+the land of Persia.
+
+The symbol of the Lion and the Sun originated in the days when the
+Zoroastrians were the inhabitants of the land. The Sun, being the
+emblem of the Fire Worshippers, was taken as their national badge. The
+Lion was added later because Ali, the grandson of Mohammed, was called
+"The Lion of God." The woman's face in the Sun was inserted some years
+later by one of the Persian kings as a tribute to his favourite wife.
+
+The sunshine of Persia forms one of its greatest attractions. Even in
+winter the dull, cloudy days are few and far between. When by chance
+a rainy day does come, the people are so surprised and taken aback
+that they seem paralysed for the time being, and are unable to go
+about their usual business.
+
+The remembrance of our first experience of a rainy day still lingers
+in my memory. We had awakened one morning much later than usual to
+find the sky clouded over and the rain coming down in torrents. I was
+surprised to find that we had not been called as usual, but imagined
+the servants had forgotten to do so. Upon entering the dining-room,
+what was my surprise to find no preparations for a meal. Calling the
+servant, I asked him why breakfast was not ready. At this he seemed
+quite hurt, as he answered, "But, Khanum (lady), it is raining!" This
+fact was to his mind quite sufficient reason for everything. As long
+as the rain lasted the servants could be prevailed upon to do nothing
+except crouch over the fire and shiver! The moment the rain ceased
+and the sun once more shone out they resumed their normal state.
+
+This constant sunshine is a great boon to the beggars and poor, helping
+to make life endurable for them; they need very little clothing,
+as a rule, to enable them to keep warm. So long as they can lie and
+bask in the sunshine, picking up bread enough to sustain life, they
+trouble very little about working or earning money.
+
+There is only one place where there is very little sunshine, and that
+is in the hearts and lives of the people. Especially, perhaps, is this
+true in the case of the women of the land, as we shall see presently.
+
+A Persian gentleman once visited England, and on his return to his
+native country was questioned by his friends as to which was the
+better land to live in. His reply was to the effect that in England
+the houses were grander, the scenery more beautiful, but that there
+was no sunshine! This lack, to his mind, far outweighed all the other
+advantages which might belong to England, and his friends decided that,
+after all, Persia was the better country to live in.
+
+When there happens to be a cloudy day or night in summer, the result
+is anything but cooling, for the air becomes terribly oppressive,
+it is almost impossible to breathe, and during the night it is quite
+useless to think of or hope for sleep till the clouds have rolled away.
+
+The natives are very much alarmed when an eclipse of the sun
+takes place, as they are afraid they are going to lose their
+benefactor. Once, while we were in Yezd, the sun was eclipsed. Suddenly
+hundreds of guns and cannons were fired off from all parts of
+the town. We ran out to see what had happened, and were met by our
+frightened servants carrying their guns, who told us that an enormous
+fish was trying to swallow the sun, and that they hoped, by making a
+terrific noise, to frighten it away! Great was their joy and relief
+when the shadow began to pass from the sun.
+
+Sand-storms are terrible trials in Persia. Quite suddenly, without
+any warning, the light disappears, clouds upon clouds of dust come
+rushing in. Before you have time to shut all the doors and windows,
+everything in the house is covered with a fine white dust. Sand-storms
+are disagreeable and trying to the patience when they find you in
+the house, but when you are caught in a heavy sand-storm out in the
+desert, it is often a source of great danger. If riding, the only
+possible thing to do is to dismount, cover your head and face as well
+as possible, turn your back to the storm, and hope for the best.
+
+At other times the light is obliterated in the daytime by a swarm of
+locusts passing overhead. Till I saw this myself I could hardly believe
+it was possible for these little insects to obscure the light of the
+sun as they did. One day in Kerman we were just ready to set off for
+a ride, when suddenly the light vanished, and I thought a fearful
+thunderstorm was about to burst upon us. On looking up we saw what
+appeared to be a huge black cloud hovering overhead: presently this
+descended and resolved itself into myriads of flying insects. As some
+fell to the earth we found them to be locusts from two to three inches
+long. The natives were dreadfully alarmed lest they should settle on
+their fields, as it was springtime, and the ground was already green
+with promise of harvest. Had the locusts settled, it would have meant
+ruin and starvation to many. Fortunately, they passed over that time.
+
+We have seen that Persia is a land of sunshine, we must not forget
+that it is also a land of cats.
+
+I was amused the other day to see how differently two people can see
+the same thing. In the course of a conversation with a friend who was
+for some years in Persia, I asked him if he did not admire the Persian
+cats very much. "Never saw one," was his answer, and he maintained
+that the whole time he was in Persia he never saw a long-haired
+cat. My experience was quite the reverse, for I hardly remember ever
+seeing an ordinary short-haired one during the three years we were in
+Persia. We had some beautiful white ones, but they were very delicate,
+and generally came to an untimely end. We tried to take one to Kerman,
+but it met with a sad death when only half way there.
+
+Cats are exported on quite a large scale to India and other
+places. They are taken to the coast by horse-dealers, who tether them
+in much the same way as they do their horses.
+
+One of the late Shahs is said to have been very devoted to cats,
+and always took one with him when he travelled, a special baggage
+animal being reserved for the cage of this favourite pet.
+
+There are many ways of journeying in Persia, and the would-be
+traveller can take his choice according to his own ideas of comfort
+and convenience. To my mind the most pleasant way of all is to have
+your own horses for riding, and thus be able to set your own pace and
+not have to be bound down to the slow, wearying, never-changing rate
+of the caravan.
+
+For those who do not care for, or are not strong enough for riding,
+there are many conveyances. Here, again, the traveller has quite a
+large choice of good things. First of all there is the "kajavah." This
+consists of two cage-like boxes, suspended one on each side of the
+animal: the interior of these boxes sometimes boasts of a little
+low seat, but as a rule is innocent of any such luxury. Two people
+of about the same weight must sit on each side, or the result is
+disastrous. I remember once being with a large caravan. In one of
+these kajavahs was travelling a Government official and his wife. He
+was very tiny, she was quite the reverse, the result being that the
+little man was generally up in the air while the opposite side of the
+kajavah was weighed down nearly to the ground. They tried all manner
+of experiments in their endeavour to strike the balance, gathering
+stones and depositing them in the lighter side, tying bags of fuel,
+&c., to the outside of the kajavah, but all of no avail. At last,
+in disgust and anger, the woman jumped out without giving her husband
+any warning: the result to onlookers was ludicrous! The wife refused
+all that day again to enter the kajavah, preferring to walk, till
+one of the muleteers offered her a seat on the top of one of the
+baggage mules. The little man was soon balanced with stones picked
+up by the wayside, and travelled for the rest of that day in peace
+and comfort. At the end of the stage, however, his wife would not
+speak to him or cook his dinner for him! and the man (who was quite
+the reverse of an ordinary Moslem man) came to one of my husband's
+assistants, begging him to act as mediator. In this case the man and
+woman seem to have exchanged places as regards character, the wife
+being decidedly the master, and he, poor man, looked as if he hardly
+dared call his soul his own. Even amongst Moslems there doubtless
+are some strong-minded women.
+
+I have travelled many miles in one of these kajavahs, finding them
+very comfortable and restful, after riding for hours. My husband had a
+pair specially made for me, with seats inside, and nicely cushioned:
+these always went with us on our journeys in Persia, so that, when
+I tired of riding, I could rest awhile. While I was not using them
+our servants had to take my place, a favour they did not always
+appreciate. When travelling by night, I have slept for hours at a
+stretch in one of these kajavahs, the steady measured walk of the
+mule favouring slumber. Sometimes, however, the monotony is broken
+by the mule suddenly dropping on to its front knees, and you find
+yourself deposited on the ground, shot out like an arrow from its bow.
+
+If this form of conveyance does not appeal to the traveller then there
+is the "takhtiravan." This is a most luxurious mode of conveyance, and
+is, as a rule, only used by invalids or high-class Moslem ladies. It
+consists of a box, with doors and windows, measuring about six or seven
+feet by four in length and five in height. The top is covered with
+heavy felt or some material which will keep out the sun or the rain,
+according to which season of the year you are travelling in. Inside
+is placed a mattress with plenty of cushions: the whole is built
+on shafts which are slung between two mules, one in front and one
+behind. The motion is rather like that of a rolling ship, and, unless
+the occupant is a good sailor, the experience is not always a pleasant
+one. I once travelled for a week in one of these conveyances, and on
+arriving at our destination found my back was a mass of bruises. The
+takhtiravan is very good for night travelling, as you can lie flat
+down and sleep, provided the animals keep in step and the road is
+good. On an uneven road the sensation is not too comfortable.
+
+We once had a never-to-be-forgotten week of torture in a springless
+wagon; it really was too terrible. Oh, the jolting, the jarring,
+and the bone shaking! Each day the misery increased, till every bone
+in our bodies was bruised and aching, and every nerve racked to its
+utmost. I should not recommend this mode of conveyance to any one
+contemplating a journey in Persia. When we first went to the Land of
+the Lion and the Sun, carriages were very scarce and very expensive
+south of Teheran. Now they are becoming much more generally used,
+at any rate as far as Isphahan. When we left Kerman in 1902 we drove
+to Yezd in a carriage kindly lent to us by one of the Kerman native
+gentlemen. Albeit the wheels came off occasionally and various other
+accidents took place, still it was a very luxurious way of travelling,
+comparatively speaking. Then, when we finally left Persia in 1903,
+we drove from Isphahan to Teheran in a private carriage belonging to
+a friend who lent it to us for the journey; so that I fully expect
+by now that travelling by carriage has become quite the ordinary mode
+of journeying in Persia.
+
+The last part of that drive into Teheran has left a vivid remembrance
+on my mind. It was a Saturday, and we were very desirous of reaching
+Teheran that night, otherwise it meant spending Sunday at a village
+near the city, as we did not like travelling on that day. So we
+determined to push on at all costs. To add to our difficulties it began
+to pour with rain soon after starting in the morning, and continued
+a steady drench the whole day. Long before we reached the end of our
+stage we were both wet through to the skin. Sunset found us still some
+twenty miles out of Teheran, and, the horses beginning to show signs of
+fatigue, we perforce had to rest them for a while. When we were within
+five miles or so of the city, we found the road all flooded, and it
+was difficult to know where the road ended and the ditch began which
+ran parallel to the road on both sides. It was by then pitch dark, so
+there was nothing to be done but let the horses take their own way,
+hoping their instincts would lead them and us safely. All went well
+till we were within sight of the lights of Teheran, when suddenly smash
+went the carriage, and down fell the horses into a deep ditch. One poor
+horse (our own, which we were taking to Teheran to sell) never moved,
+and we thought he was dead. I jumped down from the dogcart and landed
+in the ditch nearly up to my waist in water! The lamps had gone out,
+and we were in total darkness. We called and called for help but no
+one came, so my husband and I walked on a little to see if we could
+find any one to help, leaving the horses and carriage in charge of
+the driver, who was half beside himself with fear.
+
+Presently we came across a little wayside coffee-house, and found
+some men who were willing to go and help extricate the poor horses
+from their dangerous position, while we walked on to the gate of
+the city and waited in the porter's lodge. After about an hour the
+carriage came along, the horses looking none the worse for their
+escapade. Our kind friends of the American Mission were waiting up,
+and had prepared hot baths and hot drinks for us, knowing that if we
+did arrive that night at all we should be in a terrible plight. Thanks
+to their kindness and thoughtfulness, we suffered no harm from our
+damp and adventurous drive.
+
+The inhabitants of Persia are: Moslems, the Persians of to-day;
+Zoroastrians (Parsees), the Persians of yesterday; Armenians, and
+Jews. Of the two former I will not speak now, as we shall make their
+acquaintance a little later. A few words will suffice for Armenians
+and Jews. The former were brought from Julfa in Armenia many years ago
+by some former Shah on account of their industry and workmanship. He
+gave them a suburb of Isphahan to live in, and very soon a large
+Armenian settlement sprang up. Julfa of Persia is about three miles
+from Isphahan. Here all the Armenians live, and until quite lately
+the Europeans also, as it was not considered safe for them to reside
+in Isphahan. However, of late years this is all changed, most of the
+Europeans now having houses in Isphahan.
+
+The Armenians are very clever workmen in all crafts and trades. Also to
+their shame be it said that they are the wine and spirit makers for the
+Isphahanis. A true Moslem is not allowed to make or drink wine. Thanks
+to the Armenians, however, the temptation is ever at hand ready for
+him, with plenty of opportunities afforded him of indulging in secret.
+
+The Armenians make very good assistants for hospital work, some
+of them turning out quite good doctors. One young fellow was with
+my husband for two years. After we left he went to India, where he
+took a medical course, and is now a fully qualified doctor practising
+in India.  They have plenty of "push" in them, and once they make up
+their minds to get on, no obstacle is too great for them to overcome.
+
+The Jews of Persia are a miserably poor, degraded class of
+people. Their lot is a very hard one; despised and oppressed by the
+Moslems, hated and cursed by all, their life is not enviable. They
+are to be found everywhere, in Isphahan, Yezd, Kerman, and many other
+cities. My heart often ached for these poor, wretched people as they
+flocked to the dispensaries. Fortunately for them, there is a Mission
+amongst the Jews in Persia which helps in no small way to brighten
+the lives of the poor, downtrodden people.
+
+We have taken a fleeting glance at the Land of the Lion and the Sun;
+we must now try and become more intimately acquainted with some of
+its towns and their inhabitants.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+KERMAN
+
+    Short history of Kerman--Its overthrow--City of beggars--Story
+    of the fort--The jackal's "tale of woe."
+
+
+                "A little red worm--the gard'ner's special dread."
+
+                                                                V. Fane.
+
+
+The first view we had of Kerman was a very picturesque one. We had
+been travelling for about twenty days, and on Easter Eve reached a
+lovely garden some four or five hours' ride from Kerman, and here we
+decided to stay for Easter Day. Early on Monday morning we started
+for the last stage of our journey. Just as the sun was rising we
+came to the top of a hill, and there away in the distance lay the
+city of Kerman, the city towards which our hopes and thoughts had
+been tending for so long, as it was the goal to which we had been
+pressing for the past twelve months, and which we fondly hoped was
+to have been our home for many years; but God ordered otherwise.
+
+Kerman is a very interesting old city, having passed through many
+vicissitudes and seen many changes during its varied and chequered
+history. It is also a very pretty place, especially as seen from a
+short distance, surrounded on three sides by the eternal mountains,
+with their ever-changing shades and shadows, and forming a magnificent
+background to the city nestling at their feet. On the fourth side
+the desert stretches away to Yezd and Isphahan.
+
+Kerman is said to have derived its name from a Persian word Kerm,
+meaning a worm, and the legend connected with it is as follows. The
+princess who founded the city was one day walking with her followers
+over the site of the future town, and plucked an apple from a tree:
+upon eating it she found to her disgust and annoyance a worm at
+its core. As she threw it away in anger, she declared that the new
+city should be called Kerm-an, a worm. Kerman is certainly a very
+ancient city: the inhabitants claim that it was a large town in the
+time of Solomon. Whether this is so I do not know. The first time it
+is mentioned in history is by Herodotus. Alexander is said to have
+marched his army through Kerman on his way to India, and Cyrus passed
+that way on his return from India. Perhaps few places have suffered
+more at the hands of invaders than Kerman. It has been sacked at least
+six times, and in 1794 the city was almost entirely destroyed by Agha
+Mohammed Khan. The city was bravely defended by the prince-governor,
+who was one of the last of the Zend dynasty; he sustained a long
+and severe siege, till two-thirds of his troops had perished from
+starvation, and then the city was betrayed treacherously into the
+hands of the enemy and its brave defenders obliged to flee, only to
+meet with a cruel death some two years later from the hands of the
+same oppressor. This incarnation of cruelty, Agha Mohammed Khan, gave
+the city over to the will of his soldiers, who resembled their leader
+in cruelty and barbarity. There was no compassion in his heart, and he
+would listen to none of the entreaties of the unfortunate inhabitants
+for mercy, nor would he withdraw his troops from the city till he had
+received a gift of twenty thousand pairs of human eyes. When these
+were brought to him, he insisted on counting them over himself to
+see if the number was correct, and is reported to have said to the
+trembling man who carried the baskets piled high with these awful
+trophies: "It is a good thing the number is correct; if it had not
+been, your eyes would have gone to make up the exact number." The
+city never recovered from this terrible blow, and to-day Kerman is
+a byword among Persians for its poverty and extraordinary number of
+beggars. If you were to ride through the bazaars you would be struck
+by the tremendous number of beggars, all holding out their hands,
+beseeching you for the love of God to give them a copper.
+
+There is a quaint saying among the beggars which one hears very often;
+it is as follows:--
+
+
+            "Khuda guft, 'Beddeh,'
+            Shaitan guft, 'Neddeh'"
+
+
+(God says, "Give"; Satan says, "Don't give").
+
+
+
+Just outside Kerman are the remains of two old fortresses, the larger
+of which is called the Galah i Doukhta, or the Fort of the Maiden,
+doubtless on account of the story connected with it.
+
+These fortresses were built on small hills, and so alike are they in
+formation and colour to the soil that it is difficult to see where
+the castle begins and the hill ends. Between these two old fortresses
+lie the ruins of ancient Kerman. This city was the last to fall under
+the Moslem sway in its invasion of Persia, and the legend connected
+with it is interesting.
+
+The city was surrounded on all hands by the Moslem invaders, and it
+seemed as if the enemy would be obliged to retreat, as its defenders
+had withdrawn themselves into the castles or fortresses already
+mentioned. These had been well provisioned for a long siege in
+case of need, and also were connected with the outer world by means
+of underground passages, known only to those in the castles. All,
+perhaps, might have gone well but for the fact that there lived in
+the fortress a beautiful woman--alas! as treacherous as beautiful. She
+was the idolised daughter of the king of the castle; nothing was too
+good for this loved and spoilt beauty. Her father showered gifts upon
+her--gold, jewellery, silks, all were hers; and it is said that just
+before the siege began her father had planned and designed a beautiful
+garden for her, such as never had been seen before.
+
+Being so loved and such a favourite of all, she was allowed to roam at
+will within the castle walls, and often beguiled the time by watching
+the besiegers who lay far below in the plain. One day her attention
+was attracted by a handsome Arab general, who always seemed to be
+foremost in all that was going on, leading his men into the most
+dangerous and exposed parts. Where the arrows fell fastest and most
+often, there this Arab prince was sure to be seen, always brave and
+courageous. His bravery, added to his good looks, so appealed to this
+spoilt and petted woman that she immediately fell in love with him. Day
+by day this love increased, till her whole soul was afire with all the
+abandon of an Eastern love, and she felt that nothing could or should
+keep her from her hero. "Love" soon found means of communicating
+with the object of its affection, for love is stronger than barred
+or barricaded fortresses. By some means, known only to herself and
+one other, she gave this Arab to understand that if only he would
+promise to marry her, she would deliver the castle into his hands.
+
+The Eastern as well as the Western agree that "All is fair in love
+and war," so this general of the East consented to this plan, and
+agreed to accept victory at the hands of treachery.
+
+Accordingly, all was arranged satisfactorily to both parties,
+and one dark, moonless night the deed was done. The lady of the
+castle, the idolised and beloved of all, became the betrayer of her
+people. After all had retired to rest that night, and the sentinels
+were lost in the dense darkness, she stealthily crept out of the
+castle, safely passed the sleeping men supposed to be on guard, and
+opened the secret gate to her lover and his soldiers--the enemies
+of her father and her country. A terrible massacre ensued, in which
+the father was slain, fortunately dying without the knowledge of his
+daughter's base action. The prince-general had given strict orders
+to his men that on no account was the girl to be touched during the
+attack on the castle, but that she was to be conducted to a place of
+safety till all was over. At last, in the early hours of the morning,
+the general had time to think of his ward.
+
+Tired out with his work of bloodshed and slaughter, but rejoicing in
+his unexpected victory, he sent for the girl to find out the reason
+of her willingness to thus betray her own people and land into the
+hands of the enemy. When brought into his presence he was amazed at the
+beauty and loveliness of the girl before him, and his heart went out in
+great love and admiration towards her. She, still thinking only of her
+own wicked infatuation, was congratulating herself that now her heart's
+desire was to be granted her, and she would soon become the wife of
+the man so long idealised and idolised. But alas! for her fair hopes.
+
+The general, notwithstanding her beauty, desired to find out what
+her motive was for doing as she had done, and so he plied her with
+questions. "Was she very unhappy?" "Was her father very cruel to
+her?" or "Had she done this to avenge herself for some wrong?" To all
+these she replied in the negative. "Then, in the name of wonder, what
+was your reason for sacrificing father, home, country and all?" cried
+the general. "For love of you," answered the now frightened girl,
+and she then told him how kind her father had been to her, how he
+had done all in his power to make her happy, and how nothing was ever
+denied her that he could possibly procure, but assured him that all
+this was as nothing to her compared to the great love which she felt
+towards him, her lover, and ended by beseeching him, now that she
+had sacrificed all for him, not to cast her away.
+
+At this the general was so disgusted and enraged with her, that he
+determined that she must die, and cast about in his mind for some means
+of death worthy of her selfishness and wickedness, "for," said he,
+"you are not a woman, you are a fiend, and therefore must die."
+
+He therefore ordered his men to bind her with cords, face downwards,
+on to the back of a wild horse, and to turn horse and its rider into
+the desert. This order was carried out amidst heartrending cries
+and entreaties for mercy from the girl, but to all the general paid
+no heed, declaring that she was only suffering a just death for the
+abominable behaviour to her own people. The soldiers followed the
+horse for some distance into the desert to prevent its returning,
+and thus perished the beautiful traitress of Kerman.
+
+I may say here that this form of death is not unknown even now in
+Persia, and I heard a story of a man who treated his wife in much
+the same way, only the idea was perhaps a little more diabolical. He
+was angry with her for some reason, and desired to rid himself of
+her, so he caught a cow, and kept it shut up without water for some
+days. Then he bound his wife under the body of the animal and sent
+it off. Of course the cow made for the nearest stream, and we can
+imagine better than describe the fate of the poor woman.
+
+The Kerman of to-day is a large walled-in city of about forty thousand
+souls. This wall is pierced by some dozen gates, some of which are
+in good repair, but others are fast falling into ruin. In fact,
+most of the buildings in Kerman, as well as other parts of Persia,
+are "kharab shodeh"--that is, either in ruins, or fast falling into
+that state. The "kharab" buildings outside the town are the abode of
+jackals, hyaenas, owls, and other creatures of the desert.
+
+The story of how the jackals came to be inhabiters of the desert is
+told by the Kermanis with great gusto, and they quite sympathise with
+them in their banishment from the civilisation of town life. When
+in Kerman our house was outside the city, so we had the full benefit
+of the cries and wailings of these jackals, and at first it used to
+make me feel quite creepy, but after a time we became more accustomed
+to the weird music of the night, and missed the evening concerts when
+absent from Kerman. Sometimes the jackals would come right up into our
+garden, at other times their howling would come from the desert, like
+the far-away cry of a soul in torment, or the wailing of the banshee;
+but all night and every night the wailing, wailing went on, always
+crying for what they had not and never could have--never satisfied,
+and always letting people know the fact!
+
+The story of the dispute between the jackals and the dogs of Kerman was
+told me soon after our arrival there. It is said that, in olden days,
+the jackals were the domesticated pets of the inhabitants of the town,
+and lived quite happily and contentedly in their respective homes,
+always enjoying security and peace within the closed gates, while
+the dogs had to be content to be dwellers of the desert and ruins,
+outside the walls of the city. One day the dogs awoke to the fact
+that the jackals had much the better time of it, and they did not
+see why this unequal state of things should remain. They were tired
+of being always outsiders, always short of food, and exposed to all
+the chances of wind and weather--so they resolved to make a great
+effort to obtain a position inside the gates, where there was plenty
+of everything. Being Socialists, they believed in the maxim of "share
+and share alike," so they called a committee to consider by what means
+they could oust the jackals from their comfortable quarters and install
+themselves in their places. After due thought and much discussion,
+they determined to send some leading representatives to the city to
+interview the jackals. This they accordingly did, telling them that
+many of the dogs had been ill, and the doctor had ordered change of
+air for three days. Would not the noble jackals allow their humble
+neighbours the dogs to exchange places with them just for three days,
+in order that the invalids might have a chance of recovering their
+strength and health. At the same time they enlarged upon the beauties
+of the desert air, which they said would be so good for those who
+had been cooped up in the stifling city for so long. The jackals,
+after long and careful consideration, agreed to this proposition,
+arranging to leave their comfortable homes for three days only, at the
+expiration of which time all were to return to their original places.
+
+The next night the change was accomplished, and in the morning the
+people were all surprised to see dogs where the night before there
+had been jackals. However, they did not object very much. At the end
+of the three nights, the jackals came to the gates of the city and
+demanded admission, longing to return to their own haunts and homes,
+having found three days in the desert quite enough, there being no
+comparison between the comforts of the town and the dreariness and
+cold of the outside life. The dogs appreciated the change so much
+that they answered, "No, thank you, we prefer to stay where we are,
+and do not wish ever to return to the desert." So the poor jackals
+saw that they had been fooled, and went away sad and sorrowful, and
+every night since then have come howling for admission to the gates,
+and on the dogs answering "No," they go away wailing. And that is
+the reason why every night we can hear the howling and wailing of
+these disappointed creatures. And they will probably go on howling
+and wailing till the end of time, for the dogs are never likely to
+wish to return to the desert life.
+
+Such is the legend of the jackals and the dogs of Kerman.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+PERSIAN INDUSTRIES
+
+    Carpet-making--How to tell a good carpet--How
+    to make a carpet--The cry of the children--Shawl
+    manufactures--Calico-printing--Brass-work--Agricultural
+    industries--Water disputes--Kanats--Poppy crops--Wheat and
+    corn--Tobacco-growing.
+
+
+         Saying in Persia--"One plum gets colour by looking at another."
+
+
+           "Do ye hear the children weeping, O my brothers,
+                Ere the sorrow comes with years;
+            They are leaning their young heads against their mothers,
+                And that cannot stop their tears;
+                    ... the child's sob in the silence curses deeper
+                Than the strong man in his wrath."
+
+                                                         E. B. Browning.
+
+
+The subject of the industries of Persia is such an extensive one that
+I cannot even attempt to discuss it here at any great length. I only
+wish to describe a few of the manufactures and industries which came
+under our notice while in Persia.
+
+By far the most interesting of them all, to my mind, are the carpet
+manufactories to be found in many parts. Very few Europeans live for
+any length of time in Persia or other carpet-manufacturing countries
+without being affected by the carpet craze. They may try to fight
+against it, but they are almost sure to succumb, sooner or later!
+
+When choosing a carpet the first thing to do is to make sure that
+the colours are fast. This is done by moistening a handkerchief or
+small piece of white cloth and rubbing the carpet. If the slightest
+tinge of colour comes off, the carpet is not a good one. So much
+depends upon the nature and durability of dyes used. In olden days,
+the only dyes used were indigo, madder, and vine leaves. From these
+three ingredients they were able to mix and make most delicate and
+artistic shades, all of which were "fast" colours. Now, however, the
+aniline dyes are so commonly used that it is difficult to find a carpet
+in which all the colours are permanent. Europeans are often deceived
+when buying carpets, but natives seldom! When the latter invests in
+a carpet he expects it to last the whole of his lifetime, and not
+only of his life, but also of that of his children, grandchildren,
+and great-grandchildren, and perchance be more valuable at the end
+of that period than the day he purchased it. As a rule he realises
+his expectations. When a native buys a new carpet the first thing he
+does with it is to put it down in the bazaars for all the traffic to
+pass over it. The more muddy and filthy the shoes of the passers-by,
+the greater will be the beauty of the carpet afterwards, provided the
+colours are fast. This statement may perhaps refer more especially to
+Syria and Turkish Arabia, but I believe it is also true of Persia. I
+have, myself, often seen carpets laid down in this way in the bazaars
+of Damascus, Beyrout, Baghdad, and Mosul. I could never quite make
+up my mind to allow our carpets to be subjected to this treatment,
+though my husband always assured me it was the only way for the
+carpets to acquire that beautiful silky gloss, so dear to the heart
+of the carpet-lover.  As a matter of fact that gloss is maintained
+by the native custom of leaving the shoes at the door. The constant
+walking upon the carpet with bare or stockinged feet tends to bring
+about this desirable finish: whilst, on the other hand, our barbarous
+custom of wearing dirty shoes in a room is not so good for the carpet,
+nor are tables and chairs great carpet-improvers. Before the time of
+exporting carpets from Persia in any great number only good carpets
+were made, but now the demand is so great that to keep up the supply
+a good deal of shoddy work is manufactured and sent out of the country.
+
+To be a good judge of a carpet you need to be quite an expert. Many
+things have to be taken into consideration. First the dyes, as we
+have already seen; then the number of stitches to the inch must be
+counted, and it is said that a good carpet contains about 10,000
+stitches to the square foot, while some of the better ones have
+as many as 40,000. Another point to notice is to see whether both
+ends are the same width. This is done by doubling the carpet: if
+the ends do not coincide it is not a well-made carpet. Then, again,
+it should lie perfectly flat on the floor, otherwise it will crease
+in a very short time, and be worthless. My husband had a beautiful
+Kerman carpet given to him once: it was valued at L20, and, but for
+the fact that it does not lie flat on the floor, would be worth a
+good deal more. As it is, we have to keep it hanging on the wall,
+where it cannot get "rucked" or creased.
+
+Prices vary, of course, according to the size and make of the
+carpets. Very fair ones, the size of an ordinary hearthrug, can be
+had from L2, 10s. to L8 or L10. Silk ones cost a great deal more,
+but are worth the money. A small silk rug can be bought for L50,
+but they can be obtained any price up to L500 or L1000. A mixture
+of wool and silk is now made to suit the European market, but is not
+so durable as the pure silk ones. It is generally acknowledged that
+the Kurdistan carpets are the best: they are the most expensive,
+being about L3 the square yard. The chief attraction of these lies
+in the fact that they are alike on both sides, and are very smooth
+and fine. Next to these come those made at Kerman, the design being
+quite different to those of Kurdistan. In the Kerman carpets it is
+not at all uncommon to find figures of men and animals, sometimes
+almost life size. Whilst in Kerman we visited one or two of the carpet
+manufactories, and were very much interested in watching the process.
+
+All carpets are, of course, made without machinery of any kind. The
+warp is stretched on a loom, which is merely a frame. The woof
+consists of short threads woven and knotted by hand without the
+aid of a shuttle. When a row is finished it is pressed tightly to
+the rest of the web by means of a comb inserted into the warp. The
+"pile" is regulated by the amount clipped off. For a velvet pile the
+woof is clipped very close, till a perfectly smooth, even surface is
+obtained. The weaver does not see the pattern as he works, as he sits
+with the reverse side of the web towards him. The looms are generally
+kept in an underground vaulted room, often with water running through
+the centre. At each loom three or four workers sit, according to the
+size of the carpet. Sometimes the workers consist of one man and two
+children, and occasionally the owner uses boys and girls only for
+the weaving, one man acting as overseer to the children.
+
+I sat on the high stool by the side of a tiny girl whose fingers
+were working away so fast I could hardly follow her movements. The
+overseer was walking up and down the room, calling out instructions
+to the workers. To me it sounded a horrible, incoherent jumble,
+but the children seemed to understand it perfectly. The overseer
+held in his hand a paper, from which he was apparently reading out
+instructions. Not having a very thorough knowledge of the Persian
+language, it was impossible to follow, but as far as I could make
+out it was something as follows: To No. 1. Three blue threads, one
+white, two green; No. 2. Four yellow, one white; and so on, each child
+repeating after the "master" the instructions given. As it was all said
+in a high-pitched monotone, the result was confusing and deafening,
+but there the little weavers sit, day in, day out, week after week, in
+this damp, gloomy cellar, kept hard at it by the unrelenting overseer.
+
+The children are taken on as "weavers" when very young, some even
+starting when five or six years old. Their hours of work are from
+sunrise to sunset in the summer, and until two or three hours after
+sunset in the winter, and they are paid at the enormous rate of about
+2d. a day, sometimes starting with even less, whilst learning the work.
+
+The consequence of this abominable sweating system is that to-day there
+are hundreds of little children in Kerman, from eight to nine years
+of age, confirmed cripples from rheumatism and other diseases. From
+sitting so long in one position, while still of tender years, amid
+such damp surroundings, their little feet and hands become knotted and
+deformed. They can no longer earn their daily bread, so perforce must
+help to swell the great multitude of beggars who throng the streets
+and bazaars of Kerman.
+
+I once saw a little girl about seven years old sitting by the roadside
+just outside our house. On asking her why she was sitting there all
+alone, her reply was, "Mother sent me to my work (carpet-weaving),
+but my feet hurt me so, I can't walk." She was waiting there whilst
+a companion in work and sorrow ran to try and find some one who would
+carry her friend to the workroom.
+
+When we think of the sufferings of these hundreds of poor innocent
+children, do not our hearts ache with sadness for them? Surely the "Cry
+of the Children" of Kerman will go up to God, and He will have mercy.
+
+In the meantime, because people want cheap Persian carpets, these
+little martyrs must be willing to sacrifice childhood's happy days,
+health, aye, and often life itself, on the altar of cheapness.
+
+Major (now Colonel) Phillott, then acting British Consul in Kerman,
+was so horrified at what he saw of the state of these little sufferers,
+that he determined to start a loom of his own, employing men only to
+do the weaving. This he accordingly did, finding, of course, that
+the expense was enormous, as men's wages were so much higher than
+the children's, and also that they would not consent to such long
+hours. So long as children are to be had for a mere nominal wage,
+so long will the weavers use them, caring nothing for their sorrows,
+only bent on making money--the god of the Persian.
+
+A soft kind of felt carpet is also made in Persia, specially in
+Isphahan and Yezd. These are called Namads. The materials used are
+wools of all kinds, chiefly camel's hair. The colour is a light ochre
+shade of brown, and there is generally a pattern woven in the centre of
+different colours, red predominating. Some of these Namads are an inch
+or more in thickness, and are delightfully soft for walking on. They
+make a splendid foundation in a room for laying carpets on. There
+is yet another kind of rug much used, called the Galeem. These are
+much cheaper than carpets, and are suitable for rough use, such as
+travelling. They wash well, but do not improve with use as carpets do,
+having no pile.
+
+There are still shawl-manufactories to be seen in Kerman, though
+they are rapidly on the decrease. The best kind of shawl sells for
+fifty tumans (about L10) each, but there are others less expensive,
+which resemble the famous Cashmere shawls of India. These "shawls"
+are given as coats of honour by the governor or other high official,
+and are sought after and valued by all. They are woven in much the
+same manner as the carpets, and are made from the under hair of a
+special kind of white goat called "koork," which is only found in
+the neighbourhood of Kerman.
+
+The silks of Persia are very pretty and durable. They are woven
+principally at Yezd, Kashan, and Resht. The latter place is noted, too,
+for its patchwork and embroidery. This work consists of tiny pieces
+of cloth pieced together into some floral or other design. I had two
+or three pieces of this work given me by a Persian gentleman of high
+rank. One is a study in red, and the other consists chiefly of black
+and green, enlivened here and there by bright patches of other colours.
+
+Another rather interesting industry to be seen in Isphahan is the
+calico-printing; this is done by means of blocks, and, as a rule,
+one design covers the whole piece. These prints are used very much
+as curtains, table-cloths, &c., and have the advantage of being
+inexpensive. The natives often use them as shrouds for the dead,
+for which purpose special ones are manufactured, bearing suitable
+quotations from the Koran.
+
+During the summer in Isphahan the bed of the river may be seen
+covered with these prints, laid out to dry in the sun after having
+gone through the process of dyeing and "blocking."
+
+Space forbids my mentioning all the many other articles manufactured
+in Persia--the brass-work of Isphahan, copper-work of Kashan, silver
+of both Isphahan and Shiraz, mosaic also from Shiraz. But enough has
+been said to show that the Persians are a very clever and artistic
+race of people, and considering the primitiveness of their methods and
+implements, the results are astonishingly beautiful and charming. The
+agricultural industries of Persia, too, are considerable--the water
+supply necessary for these being a fruitful source of quarrelling and
+fighting, which sometimes leads even to murder. The labourers whose
+duty it is to look after the watering of the crops are armed with long
+spades, for the purpose of digging trenches and clearing a way for the
+water, &c. In a dispute these spades become very formidable weapons,
+and many a broken head have they caused.
+
+Often when riding in the desert we have met a company of these men
+returning from their labours, each carrying his murderous-looking
+implement on his shoulder, and in the gloaming they resembled an army
+of soldiers marching. The water supply is very often conducted into
+a town or village from the mountains by means of kanats, or long
+underground passages. Pits are dug at a distance of about 25 feet
+apart, each one being connected with the other by a subterranean
+passage, and so on till the place is reached where the water is
+needed. Sometimes these tunnels extend for many miles, and as the
+mouth of each pit is surrounded by mounds of earth thrown up, it gives
+the appearance of a succession of huge mole-hills running across the
+country. Great loss of life is associated with the sinking of these
+shafts from the constant falling in of the sides; on this account
+very high wages are given to compensate for probable loss of life.
+
+One of the principal crops around Isphahan is that of the poppy. It
+is a beautiful sight to see field after field of these lovely white
+flowers, stretching away for miles, maybe. How sad to think that such
+beauty should lead to misery, wretchedness, and degradation! When the
+poppy is ripe, the "head" is scratched at sunset with a kind of comb
+in three places; from these gashes the opium oozes out. It is then
+collected in the morning before sunrise, dried, and rolled into cakes
+ready either for use in the country or for export. It is calculated
+that about 8000 cases of opium, each case containing some 200 cakes,
+are exported from Persia every year.
+
+Although the growth of opium enriches those directly concerned,
+yet it tends to impoverish the country; for the ground which before
+was cultivated with wheat and corn is now required for the poppy,
+thus making grain much dearer.
+
+There is also a large quantity of tobacco grown in Persia, which is
+used for the "kalian" (or water-pipe) and cigarette smoking. The best
+kind is grown in the neighbourhood of Shiraz.
+
+Wheat and barley are largely grown, and are always reaped with the
+sickle. The land is very fertile, and with very little trouble a good
+crop is obtained, provided the water supply is good.
+
+It has been said of Persia that "it is only necessary to tickle the
+land and it will laugh into blossom."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE CLIMATE OF PERSIA
+
+    Resht, Teheran, Isphahan--Dryness of atmosphere--Cellars--Roof
+    life--Children attacked by jackals--Chequered history of work
+    in Kerman.
+
+
+                "The climate's delicate, the air most sweet."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+When speaking of the climate of Persia, Cyrus is supposed to have said,
+"People perish with cold at one point, while they are suffocated
+with heat at another," and this may be applied equally well to the
+climate of Persia to-day, for every town has a different climate
+according to its height above sea-level. When we land on Persian
+soil from the Caspian we find ourselves some feet below sea-level,
+consequently the climate is very damp, and vegetation is profuse. The
+rainfall in Resht is so great that the wells are often overflowing,
+rain falling during quite two-thirds of the year. Always having
+thought of Persia as a very dry, parched land, our surprise was
+very great on reaching Resht, the port on the Caspian, to see such
+lovely forests of trees, and flowers in abundance, both wild and
+cultivated. Primroses, anemones, periwinkles, cyclamen, and many
+other kinds of flowers, all were in bloom as we drove through Resht
+on our way to Isphahan. The ferns, too, were splendid, maiden-hair and
+ox-tongue being especially beautiful. With all these homelike flowers
+and ferns around us, we could hardly realise that we were not driving
+through some dear Devonshire lane in Old England. But as we mounted,
+higher and ever higher over the Elburz Mountains, we soon lost this
+English type of scenery. The climate became dry and warm, till by the
+time we reached Teheran we were thankful indeed for the shelter of the
+comfortable quarters of our American friends, who extended to us the
+most hospitable kindness during our stay in that city. The climate of
+Teheran is very good; its winters are pleasantly cold, and the summer
+heat is not so overpoweringly great as in other places. Then, too,
+there are lovely summer gardens near at hand, whither the residents can
+retire during the warm months of the year. And for those who love the
+mountain heights there is the beautiful and picturesque Mount Demavend,
+rising some 19,400 feet above sea-level. This mountain adds greatly
+to the beauty of Teheran, both as regards its scenery and climate. It
+stands as a sentinel guarding the valley in which Teheran lies, and
+has an ever-changing beauty of its own, with its eternal snows catching
+and reflecting all the radiant hues of the rising and setting sun. It
+also forms a most valuable health resort and summer retreat for all the
+heat-wearied ones of the neighbourhood. This is the highest mountain
+in Persia, but there are many others from 10,000 to 13,000 feet high,
+so, if necessary, a cool climate is to be found at all times of the
+year. Once over the Elburz, the whole of Persia is a high plateau land,
+till we descend once more to the shores of the Persian Gulf.
+
+Isphahan has a very pleasant climate; the winters are cold and bright,
+and it is possible to enjoy sitting out in the sunshine most of the
+winter months. The mornings and evenings are cold, but the days are
+delightful during the sunshine. The atmosphere here, as elsewhere in
+Persia, is very dry, and one's skin gets very cracked and "chapped,"
+not from the cold, but from the dryness of the air. This is the
+cause, too, of much "nerve" trouble amongst the Europeans, especially,
+perhaps, with the ladies. In the winter the natives warm themselves and
+their rooms by means of a "korsi" (literally, a chair). This "korsi"
+is a contrivance for giving warmth at a minimum cost. A hole is dug in
+the floor of the room in which the whole family live. Into this hole
+is put a clay or iron firepan full of lighted charcoal: above this,
+the "korsi," a wooden frame varying in size according to the number
+of the family, is placed, and over all is spread a large "lahaf" or
+padded quilt. All round the "korsi" are placed soft mattresses and
+cushions, and here the family pass the time eating, sleeping, talking;
+the "korsi" acting as a dining-table and the "lahaf" as a covering
+by day and night. This arrangement is very unhealthy, but the natives
+love it, and the more friends and relations they can gather round the
+"korsi" the happier they are.
+
+The summers at Isphahan are rather warm, but there are many places near
+by, which are cool, pleasant, and within easy distance for those whose
+business keeps them in the vicinity of the town during the hot season.
+
+There is always plenty of ice to be had during the summer here--perhaps
+not always of the cleanest, but still good enough for the purpose
+of cooling fruits and drinks. The native method of making ice is
+rather clever. A "yakh khaneh" or ice-house is generally situated
+outside the town or near some running water: a trench is dug some two
+or three feet deep, and a wall from twenty to forty feet is built
+facing north and south, thus shielding the trench from all rays of
+the sun. As soon as frost sets in, an inch or two of water is let
+into the trench: this freezes during the night, and the next day
+more water is diverted into the hole, on top of the ice. This is
+repeated several days in succession, till about a foot or more of
+ice is formed. This is then broken up and stored in deep caverns or
+wells for use during the summer. The process is continued as long
+as the frost lasts, and thus there is generally enough to keep the
+town supplied with ice during the great heat. Well-to-do Persians
+have their own "yakh khanehs," and others use them for a means of
+livelihood. If the supply runs short before the hot season is over,
+frozen snow is brought from the mountains; but this is very expensive,
+as it has to be brought such a long distance.
+
+Yezd has a much warmer "hot season" than Isphahan, and the heat is
+much more trying and of longer duration. The houses are essentially
+summer houses. The winters being shorter and much less severe, little
+attention is paid to the comforts necessary for cold weather, but
+everything is considered which will add to the coolness and airiness
+of the houses.
+
+As a traveller approaches Yezd he cannot fail to be struck by the
+number of tall "chimneys" rising from the city, and he almost fancies
+he is approaching some large manufacturing town, and speculates perhaps
+as to the nature of the manufactures possible in such a sandy city of
+the desert. But as he draws nearer he sees there is no smoke rising
+from these "chimneys," and so concludes that, after all, they are
+not for manufacturing purposes. What, then, is the purpose of all
+those tall, square, chimney-like buildings, appearing from the roofs
+of nearly all the dwelling-places of Yezd? They are air shafts, built
+with the hope of bringing a little cool air into the houses during the
+hot season, when the atmosphere below is so stifling that it seems
+impossible to breathe. These structures are called "bad geers," or
+"wind-catchers." There was a very large one connected with the house
+in which we lived in Yezd, and even on the hottest days, some air
+was always to be felt coming from the "bad geer." It was so arranged
+in our house that after the air had been caught and brought down by
+means of the chimney, it passed over a "hoze" (tank of water), and
+in this way was cooled before circulating through the house. Another
+aid to bearing the heat in Yezd is the custom of spending the middle
+part of the day underground in cellars.
+
+Some of these cellars are quite palatial, the walls and floors
+being made from the famous Yezd marble, which closely resembles
+alabaster. One such I remember very well: it was a room about 40 feet
+by 30 feet, very lofty, and lit from the top by windows on a level with
+the ground above. In the centre of this room was a "hoze" (water tank),
+of which the Persians are so fond, and rising from the water was a
+fountain capable of playing to the height of 30 feet; a large bowl
+turned upside down had been fixed on the ceiling to catch the spray
+and prevent it from becoming damp. Here the inmates of the house took
+their mid-day siesta, and very charmingly cool it was compared to the
+upstairs world. Some cellars are not at all healthy, and, if slept in
+during the day, the sleepers are very liable to contract malaria or
+some other fever. When dry and well ventilated no harm seems to come
+from this custom of retiring underground during the great heat of
+the day, and certainly a good cellar is a great boon to a European,
+and a great blessing when the thermometer registers 110 in the shade
+upstairs, while in the cellar it rarely goes above 86 or 90 degrees.
+
+Scorpions, centipedes, tarantulas, and suchlike creatures have a good
+time in Yezd. The climate agrees with them, and they thrive and enjoy
+life to an alarming extent. One day my husband killed three scorpions
+within the hour, two of which were the poisonous black kind. Tarantulas
+abounded inside the house and out. They always seemed to make a point
+of running across my path during prayer times; to say the least it is
+very disconcerting to see one of these creatures glide softly past you
+with the evident intention of seeking shelter under your skirt! Our
+cat always used to make a dart directly he saw any of these tarantulas,
+just to draw our attention to them, but he would never kill one.
+
+From life in the cellar we pass to life on the roof. This was often
+the most enjoyable part of the day. It is lovely, when the heat of
+the day is over, to lie and watch the stars, knowing that the same
+stars were watching over our loved ones in the Homeland.
+
+Sleeping on the roof had its disadvantages as well as its attractions
+and advantages. One great disadvantage is the fact that the sun
+wakes you up so early; another, the talking and singing which goes on
+all round you from the adjoining roofs, often make it difficult to
+sleep. In addition there is this very serious drawback, that often
+the jackals visit the roofs of the houses at night, seeking for
+something wherewith to appease their hunger, and if they cannot find
+anything else to satisfy them will attack sleeping children. On several
+occasions poor little mites have been brought to the hospital terribly
+mutilated and torn by the jackals, some just slightly bitten on the
+face, others so mauled and eaten as to be quite unrecognisable. One
+especially sad case I remember; the poor mother was wild with grief,
+for her child, a baby of only a few weeks old, had been almost eaten
+up by these abominable creatures.
+
+Life on the roof begins soon after sunset. It is very interesting to
+watch, from a height, roof-life springing into existence. First one
+and then another will bring out the family bedding, spread it on the
+floor of the roof or on low wooden benches, and then sit and chat
+till dinner-time. Very often the evening meal is eaten on the roof,
+and shortly after the family retires to rest. A Moslem takes great
+pains to have his roof well shielded from the gaze of onlookers, and
+if he is at all suspicious that he is overlooked he will immediately
+raise his wall. This being the case, the roofs in a Moslem quarter
+are generally very much shut in by high walls, which keep out the
+air and make the nights much less bearable.
+
+The climate of Kerman is almost perfect for those who can stand
+it. Situated about 6500 feet above the sea, surrounded on all sides
+by mountains and deserts, the result is a delightful bracing air
+and invigorating climate. In Kerman there is no need of resting in
+cellars by day or sleeping on roofs by night. Indeed the climate would
+be hard to beat anywhere. The winters are charming, bright and cold,
+with snow-covered mountains always in view. For a month or two in the
+summer it becomes fairly hot, when flies and mosquitoes nearly drive
+one wild, but it is generally possible to get away for a little time,
+and during the remainder of the year the climate is all that could be
+desired. And yet it seems strange that in spite of all this Europeans
+have found it difficult to live there.
+
+Our mission in its infancy had a very chequered career, owing to the
+breaking down in health of its missionaries. The first to open the
+work there was a Mr. Carless, a clergyman of the Church of England. He
+went there a young man in the vigour of youth, and at the end of three
+years, having gained the love and admiration of Moslem and Parsee
+alike, he was laid in a solitary grave away in the desert, in a valley
+surrounded by hills. After a short time his work was taken up by a
+Mr. and Mrs. Blackett, but the latter was able to remain only a few
+short months, at the end of which time she returned to England, broken
+down and shattered in health. Then my husband was appointed to open
+Medical Mission work there. Unfortunately, before the year was out,
+we too had to leave, this time on account of my health. During our
+stay there an English engineer came to seek for artesian wells. After
+two or three months he contracted fever and died at our house, and he
+too is resting in that quiet spot amongst the mountains by the side of
+Mr. Carless. On our leaving, another doctor was appointed to take my
+husband's post, but his stay in Kerman was not even as long as ours had
+been. And so it seemed as if the work there could not be carried on,
+but fortunately this chapter of accidents has now come to an end,
+for our missionaries have been living and working there for some
+three or four years. All agree, too, in saying that the climate is
+a very healthy one, provided the people living there have sound hearts!
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+HOLIDAYS IN PERSIA
+
+    How to ensure a prosperous journey--Natanz--Astonishment of natives
+    at sight of hairpins--Pulivagoon--Mahoon--Aliabad--Prince under
+    canvas--Visit from a Persian princess--A Persian deer-hunt.
+
+
+                       "If all the year were playing holidays,
+                        To sport would be as tedious as to work."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+In a climate such as has been described in the foregoing chapter,
+it is necessary for the sake of health to get away during a part of
+the hot season. Fortunately there are suitable places near at hand to
+each of the large cities, so it is no very difficult matter to get
+away for a few weeks. The difficulties lie rather in reaching these
+places, and in transporting all one's belongings--at least all those
+that are absolutely necessary--to the place chosen.
+
+After having decided upon the desirability of having a holiday, the
+next thing is to fix a day of departure. This sounds easy to say. Yes,
+it is quite a simple matter for you to say, "We will start on such
+and such a day," but you are perhaps reckoning without considering
+your muleteer. On the morning appointed you rise early, see that
+everything is in readiness, and then sit down to wait for the baggage
+animals to arrive. Time goes on, the sun begins to get hot, and no
+sign of the muleteer or mules, so by-and-by you send your servant to
+investigate matters, and he brings back with him the muleteer, who
+smiles sweetly and says, "Ensha'allah farda (to-morrow, God willing)
+we will start on our journey." His mules have gone to a village, and
+will be back "ensha'allah farda." We can console ourselves that very
+likely the same thing will occur again on the next day. It is always
+"farda" with these people, so we must try to possess our souls in
+patience, and hope for the best. Persians are never in a hurry, and
+cannot understand why it should make any difference whether we start
+"to-day" or "to-morrow." Oh, those endless "fardas"! how tired we got
+of them before we had been very long in the land. But it is good to
+learn patience, and the sooner you have mastered this lesson well,
+the happier will you be living in the East.
+
+Preparing for a holiday in Persia is rather a different matter to
+starting off at home for the seaside or elsewhere. Everything has to
+be taken--pots and pans, tables, chairs, beds and bedding--in fact,
+everything that is necessary for four or five weeks' stay in a house
+where nothing is provided but the bare walls. It is wonderful what a
+number of things are necessary even for a short stay, in the so-called
+simple life.
+
+The natives are very superstitious about many things when starting on
+a journey. For instance, it is very unlucky, in their eyes, to proceed
+if any of the party happens to sneeze on the point of starting. They
+would much rather postpone the start for a more propitious occasion,
+than disregard this bad omen. I heard of one man who insisted on
+continuing his journey in spite of the warning given in the form of
+a sneeze, and the consequence was he fell off his mule and broke his
+leg! The natives also are careful to have a good supply of copper coins
+ready when starting on a journey, to give to the beggars. Whenever
+we left home our servants always distributed freely to the poor who
+were living around, to ensure a blessing on our journey, but they
+never forgot to put the amount down in the daily account!
+
+While in Persia we had some very enjoyable holidays, but as I could
+not endure the altitude we were never able to go to the mountains,
+which of course make the ideal summer resorts. However, we managed
+to find some very pretty and fairly cool places in the plains or on
+slightly elevated ground. Our first holiday in Persia was spent in a
+very pretty little village called Natanz. I had been taken ill on our
+way to Isphahan, and the lady doctor who came out to meet us suggested
+our going for a week or so to this little village before entering
+Isphahan. Spring was already well advanced, and it is difficult to
+recruit in the hot season.
+
+Natanz is a picturesque little village, slightly off the general route,
+so that the natives had not then become very much used to Feringhis
+staying with them, and our coming caused no little excitement. We
+arrived there about twelve o'clock one night, and were conducted to
+our room by an admiring throng, and this throng continued to "admire"
+for the whole time we were there. The windows of our room were
+composed of lattice work only, so all interested could always have a
+good view of our movements. On waking in the morning there were our
+faithful followers to be seen with their faces flattened against the
+trellis work, waiting for us to wake, and see what we were going to
+do next! At times this interest shown on the part of the inhabitants
+was a trifle embarrassing, but as often as they were driven away by
+our servant just as often did they return again whenever his back
+was turned. For the first day or two I did not leave the room, but
+when I felt stronger I used to sit in a chair outside the window
+reading or writing. The moment my husband left me the women all
+swarmed round like bees, full of curious questions. Unfortunately at
+that time I was not able to talk to them, not knowing the language,
+but I could make out what they were saying to a great extent from
+their gestures. My fountain pen was a cause of great amusement and
+astonishment, as were also my hairpins. The delight of some of the
+women on being presented with a hairpin was very funny. They seemed to
+think I stuck them into my head, as into a pincushion. At first the
+women were rather shy, as they could not be quite sure whether I was
+a man or a woman, but one of them came and peeped under my hat and
+seeing I had long hair concluded I was a woman. My husband received
+a visit from the governor of the village, who was very delighted to
+see an English hakeem. We were quite sorry when our little holiday
+in Natanz was over, but being anxious to push on to Isphahan, did
+not care to prolong our stay longer than was necessary.
+
+Our next holiday was in the summer of the same year 1900. This time
+we went only a few hours' drive out of Isphahan to a place called
+Pulivagoon. It was a very pretty little village, and a nice house,
+belonging to the Zil es Sultan, had been lent to us for a month. The
+house was built practically on the river, as our windows hung right
+over the water, and the sound of its rushing torrent reminded us of the
+lapping of the waves on the seashore in dear Old England. There were
+some lovely woods near by, to which we often used to take our tea,
+and pass the time pleasantly paddling, bathing, and fishing in the
+river. The following year we were at Kerman, and went for our holidays
+to a lovely garden about nine hours' ride from the city. Mahoon lies
+very high; it must be at least 6700 feet above sea-level. The climate
+is beautiful, but the altitude proved too high for me to enjoy it
+much. We had a very tiring ride from Kerman; starting one day soon
+after noon we rode for three or four hours, then had a refreshing cup
+of tea under the shadow of a large spreading tree. But we could not
+afford to linger, for we still had a good half of our journey before
+us, so once more we mounted our respective steeds, hoping to reach
+our destination about nine o'clock, but alas for our hopes! Nine
+o'clock came and went, and still we seemed no nearer; ten o'clock,
+and still no sign of our village. It was now pitch dark, and we
+were all very tired and hungry, and I was so dead beat that I could
+hardly sit upright on my animal. My husband rode close by my side,
+to be in readiness in case I should fall off in my sleep. To the
+oft-repeated question, "How much farther?" the answer always came,
+"Ensha'allah--only half-an-hour." Oh, those half-hours, how wearisome
+they became! I did so wish that they would say two hours or three hours
+for a change, for the everlasting half-hour was so tantalising. Our
+servants told me afterwards that they said this to keep up my spirits,
+as they thought, if they told the truth about the distance, "the
+Khanum's heart would melt within her." At last, just after midnight,
+we heard a very energetic coo-ing ahead of us, and knew that at
+last we were within sound of rest and food. It was so dark that we
+could not find the path leading to the garden, and our animals went
+floundering about over great boulders of stones or stumbling into
+ditches, and of course all in the wrong direction, till some one met
+us and conducted our tired party into the house. Here we found that
+our baggage animals, with Bagi and the other servants, had not yet
+turned up, though they had started an hour or two before us. They did
+not arrive till morning, so there was nothing for it but to lie down
+on bare boards and go to sleep supperless. The only drinking vessel
+to be found was a saucepan, from which we had a most refreshing drink
+of water and retired to our luxurious couch, sleeping as well and as
+soundly as if we were lying on beds of softest down. We were awakened
+about eight o'clock next morning by the sound of bells, and knew that
+our belated caravan had come in. While they were settling disputes
+and unpacking we strolled off into the garden to dip our faces into
+the cool water that was flowing through the grounds. It was, or rather
+had been, a magnificent garden, but, like everything else in Persia,
+was even then fast falling into decay. There was water in abundance,
+flowing on both sides, and fountains playing on the top terrace and
+also at the foot of the garden. The whole garden was built in a series
+of terraces, and steps led from one level to the next. The houses and
+gardens had been built by H.H. Farman Farma, at one time governor of
+Kerman, and must have cost a great deal of money.
+
+We took up our quarters in the house at the top of the garden, and
+after a few days our consul came out from Kerman and occupied the
+lower one. We spent a very enjoyable month here, riding, shooting,
+bathing, &c. My husband opened a dispensary for the villagers,
+to which he went two mornings each week, and the people appreciated
+this very much, as I do not think they had ever had an English doctor
+amongst them before. We much enjoyed the use of the Persian "hammam"
+(bath) while there. It comprised a series of rooms built a little way
+off from the house; each room was built of marble and blue tiles. The
+first or outer room was simply for resting in, having a fountain in
+the centre; passing through this, you entered a large vaulted room,
+which was used for a dressing-room and "cooling-down" place; from this
+you passed to the actual hammam, which was a large tank of water about
+15 feet by 10 feet, and from 1 to 6 feet deep, shelving gradually in
+depth from the edge. This had not been used for some years apparently,
+but my husband had it cleaned out and filled with fresh water, and
+we were very thankful for it during the hot weather. At first we
+tried taking our afternoon siesta in the outer or resting-room, but
+found it too feverish; however, we were able to sit in it during the
+early part of the day, and generally had our Persian lesson there,
+as it was easier to work in the cool. We always made our holidays
+a time for language study, as my husband rarely could find time for
+it while at work in the city, and we both longed to be able to speak
+Persian properly. I must say the natives were always wonderfully good
+and patient over our mistakes, and never laughed, however terrible
+and feeble our attempts at conversation might be. Unfortunately,
+just as we were beginning to feel our way in Persian a little, we
+had to start learning a new language, so to a great extent we have
+forgotten our Persian.
+
+Our last holiday in Persia was spent in Aliabad, a dear little village
+about ten hours' drive from Yezd. H.R.H. the Jalal el Dowleh (nephew
+of the late Shah) kindly lent us a house there, and as it was rather
+a small one, he erected a large tent in the garden for us, which did
+duty as dining and sitting-room combined. The Jalal also kindly lent
+us one of his carriages to drive from Yezd to Aliabad. The first part
+of the way the road was very good. We left Yezd just before sunset,
+reaching our half-way place shortly before midnight. Here we had to
+rest the horses till morning, so we spent the night in a garden by
+permission of the owner. Spreading a rug on the ground, and using
+two of the carriage cushions as pillows, we spent a very comfortable
+night, and awoke in the early morning fresh and ready for the second
+part of our journey. We were off before sunrise, as we wished to reach
+our destination before the great heat of the day began. I shall never
+forget that drive. For the greater part of the way there was not even a
+semblance of a road, and the whole path was strewn with huge stones and
+boulders; it was a marvel to me how the carriage ever got safely over
+them. But oh, the jolting and the shaking! Driving up the Pyramids
+would be smooth and easy compared to the horrors of that road! We
+repented often of having accepted the kind offer of the carriage, as
+the saddle is much more preferable on such roads. However, all things
+come to an end to those who have patience; so at last this memorable
+drive ended, and we were very thankful, about ten o'clock, to see the
+trees of our village rising on the horizon. We found the little house
+very comfortably arranged and breakfast waiting for us in the tent,
+as our servants had pushed on instead of resting during the night.
+
+Aliabad contained, I suppose, some fifty houses, all of which were
+occupied by Moslems of rather a fanatical type. It was surrounded on
+all sides by mountains and hills, and this gave it a rather shut-in
+feeling at times. After sunset, too, it was very chilly and damp, as
+there were so many gardens lying under water at that time, this being
+the usual method of irrigation. I wanted to make the acquaintance of
+the village women, so I let it be known that I should generally be
+in the garden during the morning, and should welcome all who came
+to see me. In this way I saw most of the women, but they were not
+very responsive on the whole. It was here, sitting in the garden one
+morning, that I tried to learn from them how to "tell the beads"
+according to the Moslem method, but I found it too intricate and
+difficult. I managed, however, to master one very simple method of
+trying the beads for good or ill fortune. This was as follows: holding
+the rosary before you in both hands, you separate a certain number of
+the beads; then, closing your eyes, you "tell" them, repeating the
+mystic words "Adam, Eve, Satan," until the last bead is reached. If
+this happens to be "Adam," the luck is sure to be of the best; if
+"Eve," the result is neutral, and the beads must be counted again;
+while "Satan" indicates the worst of fortune, and would absolutely
+prevent any one from undertaking any contemplated action.
+
+It was no uncommon sight to see the women counting their beads and
+mumbling to themselves, "Adam, Hava, Shaitan (Adam, Eve, Satan), Adam,
+Hava, Shaitan," before making up their minds as to whether they should
+drink their medicine or not. Or perhaps some patient has been advised
+an operation, and he is trying his beads to see whether the doctor's
+advice is to be taken or not. It is a strange thing that, when they
+very badly want to do a thing, they can generally make it come to
+"Adam," or else they keep on repeating the words till it does come
+to the lucky name, and then they are happy.
+
+When we had been in Aliabad some days the prince-governor of Yezd
+brought his "anderoon" to the same village. Of course there was no
+accommodation for them in the village, so they erected a town for
+themselves. It sprang up in one night, and looked in the morning as
+if a large company of soldiers had suddenly come along and fixed their
+camp. The ladies' quarters consisted of about twenty large tents, and
+were enclosed by a huge canvas wall, quite shutting them off from the
+outside world. The prince had his reception tents and others outside
+the wall, but quite near to it.
+
+A day or two after their arrival the princess sent down her carriage
+for me, with a request that I would go and see her, which I gladly did,
+and found her surrounded by all her home comforts, and dressed, as
+usual, in some lovely silk costume. After this she always sent for me
+about three times a week, and we had walks and talks together. Whenever
+we came to a garden, she and her ladies always gathered the cucumbers
+and onions and ate them, thoroughly enjoying the impromptu picnic,
+and never giving a thought to the poor unfortunate owner, who dared
+not voice a remonstrance, however much his garden was stripped of
+its produce.
+
+A eunuch or two always went before when the princess walked out, to
+warn off any of the dreaded menkind who happened to be about. One
+day the prince gave permission for his wife to come and call upon
+me. This was the first time she had ever been allowed to pay a
+visit. I was sorry we were not in our own house, as I should have
+liked to show her an English home. However, we made the place as
+tidy and home-like as possible for her reception. My husband had to
+be banished, and also all the men-servants. Bagi (our woman servant)
+prepared all the refreshments, but the princess's own servants handed
+them to her, as Bagi was a Parsee, and it would have meant defilement
+for a Moslem to take food from a despised follower of Zoroaster.
+
+The prince spent most of his time hunting, and my husband went with
+him on several occasions. The sport did not seem to be very exciting,
+from all accounts. The Jalal would take with him about thirty to forty
+of his followers, and form a kind of cordon round the spot where the
+gazelles were known to be; they then gradually closed in, each rider
+knowing and keeping his own position. At last the gazelles would be
+sighted, and all would gallop madly towards the spot, and shoot as
+they got within range.
+
+We were kept so well supplied with venison during those holidays that
+I felt I never wanted to taste it again!
+
+Quite near to Aliabad there were some large caves in which the natives
+had stored frozen snow, so that even in the height of summer we were
+able to have a large block of ice every day.
+
+Altogether our time at this little village was very enjoyable, and
+we were quite sorry when our holiday was over and we had to return
+to the broiling heat of Yezd.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+SOCIAL LIFE IN PERSIA
+
+    Kerman--House-hunting and building--White ants--Housekeeping
+    in Kerman--Servant question--Truth v. falsehood--Abdul
+    Fateh--Bagi--Recreations--Some exciting rides--Persian
+    etiquette--Dinner at the governor's.
+
+
+                    "Society is no comfort to one not sociable."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+The social life of Europeans in Persia differs very much according to
+the town lived in. In some parts much life and gaiety are to be found,
+and in others this element is conspicuous by its absence. In Teheran,
+where we have our Legation, of course social life is at its height. At
+Isphahan, too, there is quite a large European community. When we were
+there in 1900 and 1903 there must have been at least fifty Europeans,
+and very happily and sociably all lived together. From Isphahan we
+went to Kerman, where for some five or six months we were the only
+foreigners, but in spite of having none of our own countrymen to call
+upon or visit, we were very happy. After a time a British consul was
+appointed, and we felt quite gay, and I at once started a European
+"at home" day, and every Wednesday our consul was a most regular
+visitor. He was always very homesick, and liked anything that helped
+to remind him of dear Old England.
+
+On one occasion we actually mustered four Englishmen to dinner,
+as two travellers happened to be passing through at the same time,
+one of whom was Mr. Savage Landor, who entertained us with most
+harrowing accounts of his time amongst the Thibetans. Just before
+we left two English ladies arrived, so the social life at Kerman
+began to grow, and to-day it boasts of quite a number of Europeans,
+consisting of consuls of various nations, as well as missionaries,
+bank and telegraph employees.
+
+When we arrived at Kerman we found great difficulty in choosing and
+leasing a house. Many were only too anxious to show us their houses,
+and to assure us that all their property belonged to us, to do what we
+liked with; but when it came to making definite arrangements it was
+quite a different matter. So long as it was only "talk" the various
+would-be landlords were willing to promise everything and anything,
+but it was quite another question when suggestions were made as to
+the desirability of committing those promises to paper. At last we
+settled on a house outside the town, which possessed a nice large
+garden, but the house itself only consisted of about two rooms,
+and these were in a very tumble-down and filthy condition.
+
+The landlord (a Parsee) promised to build according to our plans,
+and to spend the whole of the first three years' rent in making
+improvements and additions to the house. The consequence of this
+delightful arrangement was that during the greater part of our time
+in Kerman building operations were going on, and only just as we were
+leaving was the work completed and the house made inhabitable. But
+in the end a very fairly comfortable house was built, and has been
+occupied ever since, I believe, by our C.M.S. missionaries.
+
+Our garden was very large, but only half of it had been cultivated;
+the further end we had hoped to have made into a tennis court,
+but unfortunately we had to leave before it was possible to do
+so. All the bricks used for building were made from the earth of
+the garden. The process is simplicity itself. Water is mixed with
+the earth till it becomes a thick mud, then it is stamped into the
+required shape by means of a wooden block, and then left in the sun
+to dry. Sometimes straw is mixed with the mud, when it is necessary
+to have very strong bricks.
+
+Directly we moved into our house I found to my horror that it was
+infested with white ants. This was my first experience of these
+wretched little creatures, and I hope it may be my last. They are
+disturbers of one's peace of mind, for once they are settled in a
+house it is impossible to get rid of them, and the only thing to
+hope for is that by continually waging war against them you may keep
+them slightly in subjection. I remember so well the day I first made
+the acquaintance of these noxious things. I had with much difficulty
+succeeded in finishing our drawing-room, and considering all things
+I may be forgiven if I confess to having felt a certain amount of
+pride as I looked at the result of my labours. Certainly it was
+not too luxurious; but it was comfortable and "homey." Alas! my
+pride soon had a fall. After a day or two my husband had need of
+some book, and upon taking it from the shelf found it eaten half
+through! I then began to hunt about, and found the room was swarming
+with these abominations, under the carpets, behind the pictures,
+cosily ensconced in books--everywhere they were having a right royal
+time. From that moment almost to the day we left, I never ceased to
+hunt and destroy these ubiquitous ants. We were having two new rooms
+built, and I said to my husband, "One comfort is that the ants cannot
+be in the new rooms;" but, alas, my hopes were vain! The builders had
+used an old piece of wood for a beam on which the ceiling rested,
+and this was infested with white ants, and so in a very short time
+they had that room, too, to revel in. I tried all manner of things
+to get rid of them, but found the most successful remedy was pouring
+petroleum down the holes from which they came. This drove them away
+from that hole, but they only burrowed a little further, seeking
+for a new outlet. Nothing could or can destroy them. As long as the
+queen ant remains they can never be exterminated. An English engineer
+who came to Kerman told me that, when he was living in India, he was
+building a house, and before he laid the foundations he offered large
+rewards for all queen ants found in the grounds near, for, said he,
+"This is the only way to ensure freedom from these pests." He also told
+me that one night he left his evening shoes out in his room, and in
+the morning the leather was eaten half away. I can quite believe this
+now, after having seen for myself their tremendous digestive powers.
+
+One of our missionaries had to leave Kerman quite suddenly while we
+were there. Before leaving he packed all his most valued books into
+tin-lined cases and had them soldered down, thinking they would be safe
+against the intrusions of white ants. Shortly after his departure we
+suspected these wretches of being at work amongst the books, and so
+came to the conclusion we had better open and see. There, sure enough,
+they were, and busily they had been engaged too, for like "Mother
+Hubbard who went to the cupboard," when we went to the box we found
+it bare! if not quite, almost so; for, with the exception of a few
+stout leather covers, all trace of Mr. Blackett's valuable library
+was gone! Such are the literary instincts of white ants. But indeed
+nothing comes amiss to their tastes--books, boots, pictures, carpets,
+clothes, papers--all vanish under the business-like efforts of these
+horrible creatures. What with white ants and bad servants to contend
+and combat with, housekeeping in Kerman was enough to turn one's hair
+grey! The struggle was unequal, and I generally got the worst of it.
+
+To begin with, the servants we had brought with us from Isphahan
+refused to stay in such an out-of-the-world spot as Kerman, so
+no sooner had we begun to unpack than first one and then another
+declared his intention of going, until we were left stranded. Then
+began the joys of servant-hunting. In some parts of Persia this is
+not a difficult task, but in Kerman it was practically impossible to
+find a decent servant, or one that knew anything about his work.
+
+The chief drawback to Kerman domestics is the fact that they are all
+opium-smokers. The native saying in Kerman is, "That every fourth
+man out of three" is an opium-smoker. Although this may be a slight
+exaggeration, yet it was decidedly hard to find any one who was not
+addicted to this terrible habit. Awful specimens presented themselves
+as "cooks," but one look at them was enough! At last a veritable
+"Uriah Heep" offered his valuable services to us; he came armed with
+wonderful credentials and menu cards. These latter he claimed to
+have successfully negotiated when in the employ of some Frenchman,
+but I have grave doubts as to the veracity of this statement. On the
+strength of these menus we thought we could not do better than engage
+him; so he came, and proved himself to be a most aggravating specimen
+of humanity, specially formed, I believe, to try the patience and
+tempers of poor unsuspecting foreigners. Nothing ever put him out
+or ruffled his sweet amiability. How I wished it would, and that he
+would depart in wrath and anger at my repeated complaints against
+him! But no, nothing of the kind; he came to stay, and stay he did,
+till he bade us an affectionate and touching farewell on our departure
+from Kerman. His money accounts were always atrociously high, but so
+cleverly did he manage them that I could rarely detect him cheating,
+and at last I gave it up as a hopeless task, concluding the game was
+not worth the candle.
+
+When we were alone his cooking was passable--at least it was generally
+eatable; but if ever we had friends to dinner he always managed to
+surpass himself with some act of stupidity or wickedness, I never
+could make out which it was.
+
+On one occasion the English consul and one or two others were dining
+with us. We had safely reached the "sweet" stage, and I was just
+beginning to congratulate myself that this time, at any rate, our
+lovely cook was not going to disgrace himself or play any trick. Just
+then a "chocolate cream" was handed round. It looked all right. The
+consul took some, tasted it, and promptly laid down his fork; his
+example was followed by others. I hastily called the "boy" to bring
+me some, and on tasting it found to my horror that the chocolate
+cream was highly flavoured with naphthalene! We had lately received
+a box from home; in it was some of this useful stuff for destroying
+moths; doubtless the cook thought it was a nice and specially delicate
+flavouring for puddings! On another occasion I had been experimenting
+on some dessert dish, which necessitated part of the ingredients
+soaking for an hour or two over a slow fire. I put everything ready,
+and left strict injunctions with "Uriah" that he was to touch nothing,
+and so I left. Shortly after, feeling rather uneasy as to the welfare
+of my concoction, I returned to the kitchen, just in time to see the
+wretched man pouring my "Dream of Delight" down the sink! I confess
+to having been guilty then for the first and last time of boxing a
+servant's ears; but really was the provocation not great?
+
+Another of our "treasures" was a man called Neamat 'allah. He was
+a splendid "show man," but no good for work of any kind. He shone
+when visitors came, as he felt the dignity of his Sahib depended in
+a great measure on him.
+
+Then there was an awful boy, Rustem. I did my best to make him into a
+decent parlour-maid, but utterly failed. Although only about eighteen
+years of age, he was a confirmed slave to the opium habit. His chief
+forte was smashing crockery and telling lies. Of course we never
+expected our servants to speak the truth, but this boy seemed the most
+incorrigible of all. One day he said to me, after I had been trying to
+instil into his mind some idea as to why we should speak the truth,
+"Well, Khanum, what is the use of my speaking the truth, for if I
+did you would not believe me, and would only say it was a lie?" This
+is true, I am afraid, to a great extent, for after being deceived so
+often one gets sceptical about the possibility of a native speaking the
+truth, especially if he is an opium-smoker too. And yet sometimes they
+look at you so innocently, with such an air of injured righteousness,
+that you begin to wonder if after all they are not for once speaking
+the truth; but, alas, the wonder soon passes!
+
+Shortly before leaving Kerman we were fortunate enough to secure
+the services of a real treasure in the person of an Indian. He came
+to Kerman with his master, Mr. Patrick Duncan, whose object was to
+sink artesian wells, but unfortunately he died before his work was
+completed. His man, Abdul Fateh, was heartbroken at the death of his
+master, as he had been with him for many years. He begged my husband
+to engage him, and very gladly we did so, and he proved a great comfort
+to us all our time in Persia, acting as "pishkhedmat" (chief servant),
+not only being good and honest himself, but keeping the others up to
+their work, and not allowing them to cheat us too much. Before leaving
+the subject of servants I must say just a word about our woman servant;
+she was such a dear little body--a Parsee. We called her Bagi, which
+means a female servant. She had been with Miss Sykes for a time,
+so knew a little about Feringhi ways. She was a picturesque figure,
+waddling about the house in her big baggy trousers and her gaily
+coloured overall reaching to her knees, while on her head she wore
+the usual number of coverings, in compliance with the Zoroastrian
+idea that a woman's head must be well covered! It is a great "shame"
+for a Parsee woman to be seen with her head uncovered. One day Bagi
+had been washing her hair, and the doctor happened to see her in
+passing before she had replaced her many coverings. She came to me
+in great distress to know what was she to do. The Sahib had seen her
+with her head uncovered!
+
+The recreations of Kerman are confined almost entirely to horse
+riding. There are many very good picnic places near by, and an
+excellent stretch of desert for a canter or gallop, but not so good
+as the desert outside Yezd. When we first went to Kerman I was told
+that I must on no account ride through the bazaars, as no Englishwoman
+had ever been seen in them. I might ride outside the town and view the
+bazaars from a safe distance, but this did not fall in with my ideas at
+all, and as soon as we were fairly settled down in our house I asked
+my husband to take me to see the bazaars. So one afternoon we started
+off to try the experiment, taking with us two servants, one to walk
+in front and one behind, my husband and I riding our horses. I will
+not say that as we entered the dark, dreary-looking archways leading
+to the bazaars my heart did not beat a little faster than usual,
+as I thought of all the horrible things which had been told me as
+to what might happen when first an Englishwoman was seen in the open
+bazaar. After a few minutes, however, I saw there was nothing to fear,
+for beyond a good stare and a few curses from some of the people,
+nothing happened. I had, of course, taken the precaution of wearing
+a thick veil. My second ride through these same bazaars was much more
+exciting. It was during the time of the Passion Play in the month of
+Mohurram, referred to in another chapter. As we were riding quietly
+along we suddenly came across the whole company of excited, maddened
+creatures returning to their homes after the play was over. The crowd
+was headed by about a hundred men, whose garments were streaming with
+blood, their heads and faces covered with gashes of all sorts and
+sizes. In their hands they held and waved frantically their swords
+or daggers.
+
+Our servants were fearfully alarmed, and hurriedly turned our
+horses' heads into a narrow passage, and hoped the crowd would
+not notice us. But unfortunately they did, and with a wild cry of
+"Feringhi! Feringhi!" they immediately formed up just in front of the
+opening to our passage and began their wild dance for our benefit. It
+was rather a gruesome sight in the dimly-lighted bazaars to see
+a hundred or more naked swords flashing, blood on everything and
+everybody, men yelling, shouting, cursing, and dancing. We were not
+sorry when in a few minutes they took it into their heads to move on,
+thinking, no doubt, that they had paid great honour to the Feringhis
+by this exhibition for their special benefit. After this experience
+I felt there certainly was no longer any need for fear, and since
+then we have all ridden and walked quite freely in and through the
+bazaars. Only once was I spat upon in Persia, and that was in Yezd.
+
+Persians have often been called the Frenchmen of the East.
+They certainly are a most courteous and polite people, outwardly at
+all events, and are masters in the art of paying compliments to one
+another. But to a novice it is no light matter to know just the right
+amount of flattery to deal out, as it is almost as bad a mistake
+to give any one a great deal too much flattery as not to give him
+enough. The art lies in knowing just what is due to each person,
+according to the rank of life he occupies. When you wish to visit
+any one it is not polite to send word to say, "I am coming." You must
+couch your message in much more flowery language, such as, "I want to
+honour myself by coming to see your nobleness." The answer will be
+"Bis'millah--Please bring your tashrif (dignity)." There is great
+etiquette, too, over the kalian-smoking and tea-drinking, each one
+deprecatingly suggesting that his neighbour should partake first and
+the other declining the honour with a sweeping bow; but every one knows
+who is entitled to the first whiff of the kalian or the first cup of
+tea, and no one would dare to think of defrauding him of his right.
+
+It seems such a pity that Persians of high class are gradually falling
+into European ways, for they do not suit these Frenchmen of the East
+half so well as their own manners and customs.
+
+While we were in Kerman the governor was one who had lived in Europe
+a good deal, and liked everything done a la Feringhi; he much enjoyed
+English afternoon teas, home-made cakes, &c. Soon after our arrival
+there an invitation came from the governor for dinner the following
+week. On the evening appointed a carriage came for us and drove us
+to the "Arg," as the house of the governor is called. We found a
+splendid dinner waiting for us, served in French style, about twenty
+courses of excellently cooked dishes. After dinner we were amused
+by Persian musicians and singers. We were entertained by the nephew
+of the governor, who apologised for the absence of his uncle, who,
+he said, was suffering from a bad attack of fever which prevented his
+presiding at the table. We heard afterwards that the real reason of
+his non-appearance was not fever, but a fear of being laughed at. He
+knew how things ought to be done according to European fashion, and
+was afraid that he had not all the necessaries to carry out a dinner
+successfully, and so preferred not to show himself. However, when he
+saw how splendidly the first dinner-party went off he decided to give
+another, so in about a week's time we received a second invitation to
+dinner. This time the governor himself took the head of the table,
+and did the honours of it well, too. He certainly had nothing to be
+ashamed of, for everything was served in perfect French style. From
+the soup to the dessert, with all the intermediary courses, everything
+was dished up in perfect taste and on good china. The glass and table
+decorations would not have disgraced a European table.
+
+The Governor of Yezd, on the other hand, preferred to hold more to his
+own traditions, and I have much enjoyed a meal there with his family,
+served and eaten in true Persian style.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE WOMEN OF PERSIA
+
+    Home life--Anderoon, women's quarters--Jealousy in
+    the anderoon--Anderoon of Khan Baba Khan--Two days in an
+    anderoon--H.R.H. Princess Hamadane Sultane--Visit to the anderoon
+    of H.R.H. the Zil-es-Sultan.
+
+
+ "The more your prayers to me, the more will your wives be in Paradise."
+
+                                                 From Life of Al-Jazuli.
+
+
+  "Women are weak, as you say, and love of all things to be passive,
+  Passive, patient, receptive, yea, even of wrong and misdoing,
+  Even to force and misdoing, with joy and victorious feeling,
+  Patient, passive, receptive; for that is the strength of their being,
+  Like to the earth taking all things and all to good converting."
+
+                                                           A. H. Clough.
+
+
+Whilst in Persia I had a good many opportunities of becoming well
+acquainted with some of the Moslem women, especially in Kerman,
+as there I was for some time the only Englishwoman, and naturally
+the women liked to see as much of me as possible, in order to see
+and hear about life amongst the Feringhis. The Persian women are
+much more volatile and genial than their Arab sisters, but on the
+whole I prefer the latter, perhaps because I have had so much more
+to do with them. The Persian lady is ready, the moment she sees you,
+to shower compliments upon you and to tell you how much she loves you,
+while her more austere sister of Arabia takes time to consider whether
+you are a person to be trusted or not; and if after a time she does
+give you her love, it is something worth the having.
+
+When I first went to Persia I found the questions of the women most
+disconcerting, but after a time, if their conversation became too
+objectionable, I always told them it was not our custom to talk on
+such subjects, and they generally took the hint, at any rate for the
+time being. When in Kerman I started an "At Home" for Moslem ladies,
+and in this way I got to know some of them very well, and also by
+visiting them in their homes. They quite liked the idea of an "At Home"
+day, and I well remember our first one. About twenty ladies came, each
+one attended by a slave or two and a small boy to guard their shoes,
+which of course they left at the door. It was quite a business unrobing
+all these ladies from their black silk "chuddars," and arranging each
+lady in her respective place, according to the honour due to her. We
+had in our drawing-room a long divan, about 12 feet by 6, occupying
+the whole of one end of the room, and cushioned according to Eastern
+ideas. On this about twelve of the ladies seated themselves and looked
+very comfortable and at ease, while the rest sat on chairs arranged
+round the room, and looked most uncomfortable and uneasy. By-and-by
+I noticed first one foot being tucked up and then another, till most
+of the ladies were sitting native fashion on their chairs, and it
+looked so curious I could hardly keep from smiling. After all were
+settled, and their chuddars and veils carefully folded up and put
+aside by the slaves, then the kalian or water-pipe was brought in,
+each slave preparing the pipe for her own mistress.
+
+I had arranged that my woman-servant, Bagi, should hand round tea,
+but the ladies were horrified at the idea of taking tea which had been
+poured out by a Parsee, as they believed it would make them unclean
+for I don't know how long; so my poor Bagi had to take a back seat
+and see others take her place. My next "At Home" day I was wiser, and
+secured the services of the mother of our syce, who was a Moslem, as I
+did not like to see a strange woman doing the honours of the tea-table.
+
+Amongst the ladies that day was the wife of one of the ex-governors of
+Kerman, and the good lady did not let any one forget that fact! They
+were always most interested in seeing and hearing all about Feringhi
+life, and were specially interested in photographs and pictures. One
+lady said to me directly she was seated, "I want to see a picture of
+Jesus Christ;" and on my showing her one, she most reverently kissed
+it and put it to her forehead. They much enjoyed listening to our
+little organ, and one lady was so delighted that she gave her husband
+no peace till he bought her one, and then nothing would satisfy her
+but I must go and teach her how to play. As her instrument arrived
+from Teheran with half its notes missing, it is easy to imagine
+that her musical talent (?) was somewhat put to the test. However,
+she was very proud of her instrument, and quite happy playing with
+one finger an accompaniment to some weird Persian song.
+
+Of "home life" in Persia there is none; there is no word in their
+language for "home," and so it plays no part in their lives. Life in
+the home varies very much according to the rank of the husband. The
+poorer wives and village women are blessed by being obliged to work,
+but the better class have absolutely nothing to do, from morning
+till night, but smoke, drink tea, and talk scandal. The poorer wife
+is certainly the better off of the two, for she has to rise early in
+the morning to get her husband his early cup of tea before he goes
+off to work; then she has the house to look after and the children
+to think of and sew for; and last, but not least, the evening meal
+of pillau or kabob to cook ere her lord and master returns from his
+labours; while her less fortunate neighbour has nothing to do but to
+talk of the latest scandal of the anderoon, and then to pay a visit
+to another anderoon to tell and receive the latest news there.
+
+The anderoon is that part of the house which is given up to the women,
+and is as a rule the best part of the house, for there the men of the
+house retire when their work is done, to be waited on and fussed over
+by the womenfolk.
+
+When a man is well off and has more than one wife, he generally keeps
+them in separate compounds; but often two will be living together in
+the same anderoon, and as a rule they do not love each other very much.
+
+The great and chief causes of jealousy in the anderoon are the
+children, or rather lack of children. For instance, a young bride is
+brought to her husband's house, and for a time she is the pet and
+favourite of her husband, and all is well; but if as time passes
+no child comes to cheer her heart, then the husband soon tires of
+his new plaything and looks about for a new and prettier one, till
+one sad day the poor young wife hears that her husband is about to
+bring home another to share her life and home. We can imagine what
+rage and jealousy will burn in her heart, and how she will hate the
+new inmate of the anderoon, and especially if after a time her enemy
+becomes the mother of a boy. Then her hatred reaches a climax, and
+it is by no means uncommon for her to have recourse to the "cup of
+coffee" either for herself or her enemy. That "cup of coffee" is a
+most useful (?) institution in Persia, as it is often very difficult
+to detect the poison hidden therein.
+
+It is impossible for us even to think of the miseries through which
+some of these poor women pass; and if we see how unhappiness and
+wretchedness is fostered in an anderoon containing two wives, how
+much more miserable and awful must be the life when the number of
+wives is multiplied by two or even more.
+
+But while there are many unhappy anderoons, yet as "the exception
+proves the rule" in most cases so it does here. For I remember one
+home in which two wives were living in apparent peace and happiness;
+but here, again, there was reason for their unity, as neither of
+them had any children, and so there was no cause for jealousy. Their
+husband was an aristocratic old man of about seventy years of age,
+and he had taken these two young wives to cheer his old age. He had a
+little son by one of his many former wives, of whom he was passionately
+fond, and this boy was very ill for some months, suffering from heart
+disease. His two young wives nursed this boy day and night in a most
+devoted manner, and apparently really loved the boy, and were very
+sorry when he died. It was owing to this boy's illness that we had the
+opportunity of spending two days in the anderoon of Khan Baba Khan,
+and very pleasant and interesting days they were too. It was the
+year that we were in Kerman, and we had just gone away for our summer
+holiday to that lovely garden of Mahoon, when one day a very urgent
+messenger came to my husband from Khan Baba Khan begging him to go
+and see his boy, who was very ill. The old man had sent his carriage
+for us, with instructions to his man to drive the doctor straight to
+his garden, situated some sixteen miles on the other side of Kerman,
+where the boy had been taken ill. As soon as we were ready we started
+off, but could only reach Kerman that night, where we rested, and
+the next day arrived at the garden of the Khan.
+
+It was a very pretty garden, with plenty of trees and running water. On
+our arrival we were ushered into the room prepared for us, and in
+a few minutes the poor little invalid was brought in, and even then
+he seemed to have the mark of death on his face; but he was a very
+self-willed boy, and every one had to humour him in everything, as the
+fits of temper which he indulged in were very dangerous for him in his
+weak state of health. While the doctor was examining and prescribing
+for the invalid in another room the two ladies came to see me, and
+brought a very appetising dinner; chickens cooked to perfection and
+pillaus formed the staple part of the meal. The ladies then retired,
+and my husband and I thoroughly enjoyed our first meal taken together
+in a Persian anderoon.
+
+After dinner my husband again visited the patient, and the ladies
+came to prepare our room for the night. This was quite an elaborate
+undertaking. First of all, a huge mosquito net was fixed up by
+attaching the four corners to tapes and nailing them to the wall. The
+underneath part of the net rested on the floor; on this the mattresses
+were placed, so that once you were inside the net you were in what
+seemed like a good-sized room. In fact, during the next two days we
+used to sit inside the net reading or writing, as outside there was
+no respite from the plague of mosquitoes and sandflies. Sleeping on
+the floor is very comfortable; in fact, I don't quite see the need of
+bedsteads, unless the room is infested with rats or other creeping
+creatures! The next two days passed very pleasantly; whenever my
+husband went out of the room, almost simultaneously I would hear a
+voice at the window asking permission to enter, and the ladies would
+come in for a chat. We became great friends, and this friendship lasted
+till we left Kerman some months later, and then the Khan lent us his
+carriage to drive to Yezd, as he wished to express his gratitude for
+all my husband had done for his boy. Unfortunately the boy even then
+was past human aid, and after two or three months of suffering he died.
+
+I have always been glad of these two days actually spent in a Persian
+home, as it enabled me to see what their everyday life really was;
+but as I have said, this was quite an exceptionally happy anderoon,
+with none of the wrangling and quarrelling generally connected with
+the homes of Persian women.
+
+While in Yezd I met and soon became very friendly with a most charming
+Persian lady. She was a daughter of one of the late Shahs, and thus
+was a princess in her own right; her husband was a nephew of the late
+Shah, so she was doubly connected with Persian royalty.
+
+H.R.H. Princess Hamadane Sultane was in many ways quite unlike the
+majority of Persian ladies. She was a strong-minded, clever woman, and
+was very anxious that her children should be brought up in European
+fashion. These children certainly had a very good time compared
+with other Persian children, as their mother refused to let them
+become little women before they had passed out of childhood's days,
+and although they were then nine and ten years old were generally
+playing with their dolls or other toys brought from Paris for their
+amusement. The princess very much wished her children to learn English,
+but I suggested that she should learn it herself first and then teach
+it to her children. To this she gladly consented, and so twice a
+week I used to go up and give her lessons. She quickly got over the
+A B C stage, as she had some slight knowledge of French, and took
+a great delight in picking out the words of an easy English reader,
+and in a very short time she greeted me in very quaint broken English:
+"Good morning; I hope you are well." Unfortunately, I had to leave my
+interesting pupil at this stage, as we were leaving Persia for England,
+and I never saw her again; but I have heard that she continued her
+English lessons for some time. I do not think I ever knew any one
+with so many dresses as this princess had; every time I saw her she
+appeared in a different costume, and always in rich silks, satins, or
+brocades. I asked her once if she knew how many gowns she possessed,
+and she confessed that she had no idea, and added that it would not be
+at all right for me to see her more than once in the same dress! And
+I certainly never did, although I was visiting her twice weekly for
+some months.
+
+This good lady exercised a very great influence over her husband
+(a most unusual thing in Persia), partly, perhaps, on account of
+her social position and also because she possessed a large amount of
+property in her own right. Before she came to live with her husband in
+Yezd she said she would only come with the understanding that she was
+to be the only wife, and I believe the prince kept to the agreement as
+long as she was with him. But he must have found it very hard, for I
+have heard that before his wife came no girl dared be out after dusk,
+so afraid were they of the prince and his courtiers.
+
+One day I was visiting in the anderoon in company with the lady doctor
+who was attending one of the children, and lunch was announced; so
+the prince made us sit down with them and partake of the mid-day
+meal. After lunch the prince amused himself by vaccinating all
+the children he could lay hands on (not his own, but those of the
+servants). The children did not seem to see the joke quite so much
+as the prince did! They were much too frightened to run away, and
+stood trembling in their shoes waiting for their turn to come. At
+that time, too, no one in the anderoon dared say they had toothache,
+for if they did immediately the prince would call for his forceps, and
+out would come a tooth. Perhaps it might happen to be the offender,
+but just as likely it would be an innocent tooth which had never
+given its owner a moment's pain!
+
+I shall never forget the delicious coffee which was always served
+when visiting at this house. It was a mixture, I believe, of coffee
+and chocolate; and I have never tasted anywhere such coffee. I asked
+the princess to give me the recipe, but my make never came up to the
+original, and I think perhaps they did not mean it to!
+
+The princess was very fond of sending to Paris for boxes of goods
+on approval, and it was rather amusing to be there when the things
+arrived. Sometimes most beautiful Parisian blouses would come, quite
+unsuitable for her; but she loved to try them on and then put them
+away, never, perhaps, to be looked at again. I have very pleasant
+memories of my friendship with Princess Hamadane, and have as a yad
+gari (remembrance) a lovely silver tray of Persian work, which she
+presented to me on our leaving Yezd; also the photographs of her
+three children--two girls and a boy.
+
+It is quite impossible to tell of all the interesting visits paid to
+different anderoons; but I should like to mention some visits paid
+to the anderoon of the Zil-es-Sultan, a brother of the late Shah. He
+was then Governor of Isphahan, and my husband at that time was taking
+charge of the medical work there for a year.
+
+The governor one day sent his carriage, with the request that the
+English doctor would go to see one of his wives, and also bring
+his wife with him; so we went, and had a very pleasant three-mile
+drive from Julfa to Isphahan. Arriving at the palace, we were met by
+the chief eunuch and conducted to the anderoon, into a large room
+surrounded by glass mirrors. Here in a far corner, seated on the
+ground, was "something" covered with what looked like a large white
+sheet. This "something" turned out to be one of the ladies of the
+anderoon, who was suffering from dimness of sight. She was one of the
+prince's favourite wives, and so he had taken the trouble to allow
+her to see the doctor. After a great deal of palaver she consented
+to lift a corner of her chuddar, and, while shielding the other part
+of her face, to uncover her eyes. Her husband was very anxious for
+her eyes to be thoroughly examined, and he ordered a dark room to be
+speedily prepared, so that the examination should be as complete as
+possible. While we were waiting for the room and lamp to be ready
+the prince took out a little pocket-mirror from his waistcoat and
+carefully looked to see if his hair was in perfect order, and then,
+having satisfied himself that all was as it should be, he entered
+into conversation with my husband over the state of his wife's eyes.
+
+Another day I paid quite an informal friendly visit to two or three
+of his wives. Each wife had a separate compound to herself, and her
+own set of servants and slaves, and no wife was allowed to visit
+another without special permission from the chief eunuch or from the
+prince himself.
+
+That afternoon two or three had asked for and received permission
+to drink tea in the house to which we had been invited, so we had
+quite a nice little tea-party, and a very gay one too so far as the
+costumes were concerned; but the subject of dress being so stupendous,
+we will leave it for another chapter.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+MORE ABOUT PERSIAN WOMEN
+
+    Costumes--Wedding festivities--Wedding dinner--Kindness of Persian
+    husbands--Story of brutality--Divorce--Aids to beauty--Degradation
+    and cruelty of women.
+
+
+                   "Women are made by men:
+                    The nations fade that hold their women slaves:
+                    The souls of men that pave their hell-ward path
+                    With women's souls lose immortality."
+
+                                                          John Davidson.
+
+
+The indoor costume of the Persian women is not at all pretty or
+graceful. It consists of a short, loose jacket, generally made of
+some gaily coloured material, and in the case of rich women of bright
+brocaded silk or velvet, and a very short skirt, just the length of a
+ballet dancer's. In fact their dress is an exact copy of the Parisian
+ballet dancer. Many years ago all the women wore those picturesque
+baggy trousers, with long flowing garments over them, but while one
+of the late Shahs was visiting Europe he saw the ballet dancer,
+and his fancy was so taken by the costume, that on his return he
+ordered all the inmates of the royal harem to adopt the same dress;
+and as royalty always sets the fashion for the country, in a short
+time all the Moslem women of Persia had adopted this hideous fashion.
+
+I remember so well the first time I saw this costume; it was the
+evening of the day on which we first arrived in Isphahan. After dinner
+Miss Stuart (the bishop's daughter) and I were walking on the roof
+of their house, when suddenly a woman appeared on the other side
+of a wall and began chattering with Miss Stuart. I felt inclined to
+look the other way, thinking the good lady had forgotten to complete
+her toilet, but seeing that Miss Stuart did not seem surprised,
+I supposed it was all right, and so began to feel more at ease;
+but certainly the first sight of these costumes is rather alarming,
+especially if the woman is not wearing the long stockings, as they
+generally do, but often leave off in very hot weather. On their heads
+they wear a square of white muslin, and flowing down their backs,
+and attached by a pin to their hair, is a long, graceful chuddar,
+generally made of a pretty muslin or silk; and as the women walk
+about the house, these chuddars flow behind, and look very graceful
+indeed. The ladies do not like the fashion of the short skirts,
+and many were the requests made to me to cut out dresses such as I
+was wearing, and if I had wished, I could have had my time in Kerman
+fully occupied in cutting out dresses according to European fashion;
+but with the exception of pleasing two or three of my special friends,
+I always told them I had no time for dressmaking, but would always be
+pleased to lend them patterns. So ashamed were some of the women of
+their short skirts, that they would often take their long, flowing
+chuddars from their heads and wrap them round their waists, giving
+the appearance of a draped skirt.
+
+The outdoor costume of the Persian women is much more becoming than
+the indoor, though it is decidedly hot in the warm weather. It is made
+up of three pieces; the big voluminous trousers which slip over the
+feet and cling closely to the shape of the foot, but above the ankle
+fall full and baggy; over these are worn the large black chuddar,
+the poor wearing black calico and the rich silk; and then, covering
+the face, is the veil. This veil is a long strip of white calico with
+open work for the part covering the eyes, and fastened together at
+the back of the head by brass, silver, or gold and jewelled clasps,
+according to the rank of the wearer. Through the open work part of
+the veil the woman is able to find her way about, and see all that
+there is to be seen, while no one can see the face behind the veil.
+
+To see a group of Persian ladies decked out in their silks and satins
+is a sight not easily forgotten. There is nothing these women love
+more than some festivity at their own or a friend's house, which
+gives them an opportunity of showing off their finery, and also
+of meeting all their acquaintances, and having a good "gufti goo"
+(chat). I was often invited when in Kerman upon these occasions,
+but found, if I accepted all invitations, my time would be taken up
+with going to betrothal feasts, weddings, &c., and so I used to look
+in for a few minutes and then excuse myself. On one occasion I went
+to a wedding at the house of one of the chief mullahs of the town. I
+was asked to go at sunrise, but did not put in an appearance till
+about nine o'clock. When I arrived, all the guests had been there
+already some hours; it was certainly a very pretty sight. Two large
+compounds were given up to the entertainment of the bride's party,
+while the bridegroom was holding his reception in another house.
+
+As I entered the door leading into the anderoon, I could but stand and
+admire the scene before me. Quite two hundred ladies were present, each
+one dressed in gorgeous silks and satins, and all wearing the graceful
+chuddar falling from the head. The majority of these chuddars were of
+silk--Indian, Japanese, or Persian silks, all vying with each other
+in their brilliancy and beauty. Some were rainbow silks, all colours
+merging into each other; then again, others were gaily flowered,
+and others "shot" or lustre silks--the whole forming a wonderfully
+harmonious and striking picture, and I longed for a camera that might
+give a true representation, both in colour and vivacity, of this
+butterfly scene before me. To add to the gayness of their attire,
+each married lady was wearing a spray or wreath of flowers in her
+hair, and many carried or wore bouquets of roses. The whole effect
+was charming, and formed a marvellous study of colour, gracefulness,
+and Eastern beauty.
+
+We have kept our hostess waiting quite a long time while we have been
+admiring her guests, but now we must hasten to pay our respects to her,
+and take our seat amongst this gay throng. I was alone that day, being
+the only European woman in the town; but it will be much more pleasant
+if my readers will come with me in imagination to that wedding feast.
+
+We are ushered into a large room full of gay ladies, who immediately
+all rise from the ground as we enter, and salaam us. It is rather
+difficult to know which is our hostess amongst so many, so we must be
+impartial in our salutations, and pray God that "their kindnesses may
+never grow less," or "their hands never pain them," &c. Then we all
+take our seats, and conversation is resumed. The ladies will begin
+with a series of questions, such as--
+
+"How old are you?" "Have you a mother?" "Why do you not black your
+eyebrows?" "Are you happy?" "Is your husband kind to you?" "Do
+you like him?" "How much did your dress cost?" and so on, like a
+group of children--and when you think they have finished, they will
+begin again. After a short interval tea is handed round. Tea, did I
+say? well, it is dignified by that name, but in reality Persian tea
+is not much more than sweetened water coloured with a drop of tea. To
+begin with, the cups are very tiny, generally made of glass. They are
+first filled up with three or four lumps of sugar, then a teaspoonful
+of tea is poured over these, and water added until the cup is full,
+and the result is--Persian tea! However, it is rather pleasant to
+drink, and helps to pass the time. After a short interval more tea
+is handed round, and then glasses of sherbet, made from juices of
+different fruits, and then, for a change, coffee is served.
+
+About noon, just as I am afraid we are all feeling very tired and
+sleepy, a welcome change comes; a stirring and commotion begins in
+the courtyard, women rush about with enormous trays on their heads
+and carrying all kinds of dishes: this is but a prelude to dinner
+being announced. Two large rooms are laid out for dinner; in each room
+about one hundred guests sit down. I was taken in by the mother of the
+bridegroom, so we will all pass in under her protection. (The mother
+of the bride is not in evidence on these occasions, being supposed to
+be overwhelmed with grief at losing her daughter.) The "table" is the
+ground, so we must gracefully (?) sit on our heels. On the "table" are
+over two hundred different dishes--pillaus, chillaus, chicken, kabobs,
+vegetables, fruits--all laid out in tempting array. The hostess having
+pronounced the Moslem benediction, "Bismi'llah" (In the name of God),
+all the guests fall to work in real earnest: very little talking is
+done, eating being the business of the moment. Spoons and forks were
+provided for me, but I preferred to do as they did, and so ate with
+my fingers, though it requires a good deal of practice to do it neatly
+and gracefully. As a mark of respect and honour, the hostess from time
+to time breaks off pieces of meat from her portion and places them
+on my plate, and once as a special mark of favour placed a dainty
+morsel of chicken in my mouth. I hope my readers have enjoyed their
+dinner as much as I have, for to my mind a Persian feast is a most
+delectable entertainment.
+
+After dinner we all washed our hands in a basin brought round for
+the purpose, the water being poured from an ewer on to our hands by a
+servant. Then we all retired to our reception-room of the morning, and
+again tea and sherbet were handed round, and the kalian or water-pipe
+was much in request, each lady taking a whiff and passing the long
+tube to her neighbour.
+
+But where is the poor little bride all this time? We have neither
+seen nor heard her all day long, and yet the feast is supposed to
+be in her honour. All through the long, hot June day she has been
+cooped up in a tiny room, and as sunset approaches her friends and
+relations go to dress her and to decorate her from head to foot with
+jewellery and finery. Into her hair is woven a quantity of golden
+thread, so that in the distance it looks like a mass of gold, and
+must be very heavy on the poor tired little head. She is brought
+out into a large room, and seated on a chair in the middle of it;
+then every one goes up to her, and after kissing her, says, "May
+you be blessed." The poor little mite (she might be thirteen years
+old, but hardly looks it) seems absolutely wretched and miserable,
+and when food is brought to her refuses to eat. Just at sunset she
+is taken to her husband's house in a closed carriage, and our hearts
+must ache as we think of what is in store for her. Even if her husband
+is kind to her at first, yet she has nothing much to look forward to
+but misery and degradation, and if by chance she goes to an anderoon
+already containing two or three wives, then may God take pity on her,
+for her fate will be a sad one. As soon as a man marries a girl she
+is absolutely his property, and he may do exactly as he pleases with
+her; there is no redress for the poor unfortunate girl. If the man
+is a brute and half kills his wife no one dare say a word to him,
+or if perchance there is one brave enough, he will only be told that
+"the girl is his wife, and he can do as he likes with his own," and
+so it is no wonder if the shadow of the future lies darkly on the
+faces of those poor little children, as they leave their mother's
+home as brides to go out into the unknown which lies before them.
+
+I remember a poor little girl who was brought to the hospital in Julfa,
+while we were there. She had been married to a brutal man, when about
+eleven years old. Being very unhappy with him, she often used to run
+away and take refuge with her mother, who lived in a village a mile
+or two away from her husband's house. On many occasions he had beaten
+her severely for some childish fault, and each time she had fled to
+her mother, and stayed with her till her husband came and carried
+her off again by force. This went on for some time, till the poor
+child's life was nothing but wretchedness and misery.
+
+One day she displeased her husband by not cooking the dinner to
+his liking, and he was so enraged with her that he behaved in the
+following abominable manner.
+
+First of all he saw that the windows of his house were barricaded and
+the door locked: then he stripped the trembling, frightened child,
+and deliberately poured paraffin oil all over her body, and finally set
+a light to her and left her to her fate, taking care to lock the door
+after him, as he went out. The neighbours, hearing the girl's screams,
+rushed to the house, but the doors being locked and the windows
+fastened much precious time was wasted. When they finally smashed
+open the window it was only to find the child a mass of flames. They
+picked her up and rushed wildly with her into the street, and dropped
+her into the nearest stream to quench the flames! It was a marvellous
+thing to think that after all this there was any life left in the
+poor child. The neighbours took her to her mother, who plastered all
+her wounds with red earth and left her lying in the corner of the
+room for some ten days. Then, taking the advice of some friends,
+they procured a cradle and lifted the poor wee child into it, and
+hoisted the cradle and its occupant on the back of a donkey, and took
+her some five days' journey to Julfa. They had heard of the Mission
+Hospital through some of their villagers, who had been treated there,
+and so they brought this little victim of Persian cruelty to the lady
+doctor, who took her in, dressed her wounds, and laid her in a clean,
+comfortable bed. All that human love and kindness could do was done to
+alleviate her sufferings, but nothing could save her life, and after
+three days she passed away--a martyr indeed to the creed of Islam,
+which enables and allows men to treat their women as something lower
+than the beasts of the field.
+
+Ought not the cries of distress and agony from the poor women of Persia
+so to rouse us, their sisters in England, that we shall determine to
+do all that lies in our power to lighten their burdens and to bring
+some rays of light into the dark lives of our Eastern sisters?
+
+One thing which adds greatly to the misery of these women is the
+ease with which their husbands can divorce them. A wife never knows
+from day to day whether or no her lord may not divorce her. Often
+for most trivial matters a man will cast away his wife. This being
+the case, the woman will lie and deceive her husband in order to
+escape divorcement. If the wives of Persia could only be raised to
+the level of true womanhood I believe they would become good wives
+and mothers, but while they are what they are, how can there be any
+hope for them? There is nothing but utter darkness till the true
+Light shines into their lives, and then and then only will the day
+break for these downtrodden, degraded beings.
+
+The Persian ladies are great beauty specialists, and bestow a good
+deal of attention upon their complexion and general make-up. They do
+not believe in beauty unadorned, for even when quite young they use the
+rouge-pot very freely, and often use it to great advantage too! I have
+often known a girl who was quite ordinary-looking, sallow and dark in
+complexion, but when dressed for her wedding I hardly recognised her,
+so changed was she by all the numerous "aids" to beauty. Her cheeks
+were now a lovely rose tint, and her eyebrows darkened and lengthened
+till they almost met in the middle, and the edges of her eyelids were
+also blackened with "kola," and really the effect was very good.
+
+They also spend much time and trouble in dyeing their hair with henna,
+not only from a fear of grey hair, but also because the dull red tint
+produced by henna is the fashionable colour.
+
+The Persian lady has very little in her life to elevate or refine
+her mind, and so we cannot wonder if at times we see in her many
+revolting characteristics. When we think of all she has to endure,
+and how little happiness comes to her lot, our wonder is that she
+retains even a semblance of womanhood. Should we be any better under
+like circumstances?
+
+If a woman is treated continually as if she was nothing but a beast
+of burden, is it to be wondered at that in some cases her nature
+becomes almost as the beasts of the field? Weird stories are told of
+the extremities to which women have been driven, and the cruelties
+which they have perpetrated.
+
+The following is one which I heard when in Persia. It was in the days
+when famine was rampant throughout the land. There was a certain man of
+high position who collected and stored all the corn he could gather,
+and then refused to sell at anything but famine prices; finally he
+was arrested and sent to Teheran, where he was tried and condemned
+to death. The Shah could not determine on the manner of death to be
+ordered for this rascal, but at last decided to hand the unfortunate
+man over to the mercies of the royal anderoon to be put to death by
+them. The ladies and women servants consulted together, and decided
+to keep the wretch in their quarters and kill him by inches, day by
+day. The method they chose was to cut him to pieces with scissors
+till he died!
+
+I cannot vouch for the truth of this story, and I trust it is not
+true, but I give it to you as I heard it. But one thing I know to
+be true, and that is, when a Persian woman is once roused to anger,
+jealousy, and passion, there is hardly anything too dreadful for her
+to contemplate doing, in her longing for revenge.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+SOME POINTS IN THE MOSLEM FAITH
+
+    Fasts and Feasts--Seyyids, dervishes, mullahs--Legends of the
+    drowning mullah, and the yard square hole.
+
+
+                                        "Religion's all or nothing."
+
+                                                            R. Browning.
+
+
+There are five things which every true Mohammedan must either
+believe or do. The first is the declaration of their faith or
+"Kalimat." "I declare that there is no God but God, and Mohammed is
+His Apostle;" "La Allaha il Allah wa Mohammed rasool Allah," this is
+the all-important witness, and must be continually recited by all true
+believers. Secondly, Moslems are bound to repeat prayers five times
+a day--at daybreak, noon, shortly before sunset, during twilight,
+and an hour after dark. I do not say all Moslems do repeat prayers at
+each of these times, but that is their rule, and those who consider
+themselves good Moslems adhere most righteously to these set times
+for prayers. Needless to say, it is but a form of words and position,
+any slight error in posture taking away all the benefit to be derived
+from the prayer. Often in Persia women have said their prayers in
+our drawing-room, if the call to prayer sounded while they were
+visiting me.
+
+Living in the East, one gets very fond of the call to prayer, heard
+from some neighbouring minaret. The first sound that catches the ear
+at daybreak is "Allah, Allaho Akhbar" (God is most great), repeated
+four times. "La Allaha il Allah wa Mohammed rasool Allah"--this is
+said twice, and then other calls and invocations, always finishing
+up with the final declaration of "Allah, Allaho Akhbar."
+
+There is a great difference in the way this call to prayer is chanted,
+some men having most melodious voices, others harsh and grating; but
+wherever a true Moslem may be when he hears this call, he lays aside
+his work at once and begins to repeat his prayers, bowing, prostrating,
+touching the ground with his forehead, &c., till the duty is finished,
+when he returns to his work, perhaps to his cheating and his lying,
+for this repetition of prayers has no effect on his life or manner
+of living.
+
+Thirdly, all good Moslems are supposed to give voluntarily to the
+mullahs a tithe of all they possess, also alms to the poor. In the
+Koran we read, "Prayer carries us half way to God, fasting brings us
+to the door of His palace, but giving of alms procures admission." In
+many cases the mullahs are provided for entirely by the freewill
+offerings of the people, all gifts being sent anonymously.
+
+Fourthly, every true believer is expected to undertake, if at all
+possible, a pilgrimage, preferably to Mecca, but if that is out
+of the question then to Kerbela or Meshed.  The former, of course,
+brings the greatest merit, and men and women will do all they can
+to perform this pilgrimage. On their return they are treated with
+great respect, and looked up to as little gods. They generally think
+so much of themselves after having performed this wonderful act of
+self-denial that they become quite unbearable to their friends. There
+is an Arabic proverb which shows the effect this pilgrimage to Mecca
+is supposed to have on the pilgrim. It is as follows: "If your friend
+has been to Mecca, trust him not. If he has been there twice, avoid
+him. But if he has made the pilgrimage three times, then flee from
+him as you would from Satan himself."
+
+Women often undertake these pilgrimages, spending weeks or months
+it may be over the journey, but resting for ever afterwards in the
+great glory and honour resulting from it.
+
+The fifth point to be observed by Moslems is that of fasting during
+the month of Ramadan. This lasts for thirty days, and is a real
+hardship for the poorer people when the fast falls during the summer,
+as from sunrise to sunset not a morsel of food or drop of water may
+pass their lips--or, as the Koran expresses it, from "the time you
+can distinguish between a white thread and a black, then keep the
+fast until night." For the rich and idle it is no great effort,
+for they simply feast and revel all night and sleep by day, but
+for the servants and labouring class it comes harder, as they must
+work by day and cannot sleep properly at night. Children are always
+very anxious to begin fasting, and often little mites of five or six
+will tell you with great pride that they are keeping the fast. They
+generally start by fasting for half days, and how proud they are,
+and how they gloat over other children who have not yet begun this
+work of devotion! Perhaps what the people who fast miss more than
+anything else during Ramadan is their smoking: they are such slaves
+to this habit, both men and women, that it is almost life to some
+of them, and they find it very hard to go without. When the cannon
+booms forth the hour of sunset, giving the Prophet's permission to
+his faithful ones to break their fast, generally the first thought,
+after moistening their lips with water, is that now they may enjoy
+their smoke, either of a cigarette or kalian.
+
+Mohurram is the month of mourning, when all the country mourns for
+Hassain and Hussein, the martyred sons of Ali, who are looked upon
+by the Shiahs as the rightful successors of the Prophet. During this
+season the majority of the people go into deep mourning, and the
+bazaars are sometimes draped in black. It is in this month that the
+great Passion Play of Persia is enacted, and while in Kerman we were
+fortunate enough to have an opportunity of witnessing this "tazieh,"
+as the Passion Play is called. It certainly was a sight worth seeing
+at least once in a lifetime.
+
+The tenth day of this month of Mohurram is the one set aside for this
+festival, and is kept as a general holiday, so that all might go to
+see the great spectacle enacted on that day in memory of the death
+of Hassain and Hussein, the two grandsons of Mohammed.
+
+The Governor of Kerman had kindly invited us to view the performance
+from his house, and accordingly that morning at about eight o'clock he
+sent his carriage for us, and we were driven through the packed bazaars
+till we arrived at his house, or "Arg," as the governor's residence
+is called in Kerman. We were at once admitted by a private entrance,
+and ushered into a large verandah, which had been set apart for the use
+of Feringhis. As my husband and I were the only Europeans in the city
+at that time, we had it to ourselves. Here, before the commencement
+of the Play, we were regaled with tea, coffee, jam, bread, cheese, and
+cakes. Looking out, the sight was a wonderful one. In front of us was
+a large garden in which I suppose some 10,000 people were gathered. At
+one end of the garden was a large "hoze" or tank of water, over which
+was spread a huge awning, and near by a large pulpit from which the
+mullahs preached to the people, and tried to rouse their feelings
+to a high pitch of excitement. One man was specially successful in
+doing this, causing the women to wail wildly and beat their breasts
+frantically, and the men to smite their heads. After a delay of about
+an hour, the performance began with a long procession, which entered
+the garden at the far end and wound in and out till it had traversed
+the whole garden. This procession represented the family travelling
+as captives after the death of Hassain and his brother.
+
+First of all came six gaily decorated camels, with men riding
+upon them, beating drums and making a tremendous noise. Then
+came more camels carrying the tent furniture and other goods,
+followed by horses and mules laden with heavy loads. After these
+came four stretchers borne by men, on which lay four dead bodies
+(figures stuffed) representing Hassain and his three brothers, who
+perished from want of water, which had been cut off from them by their
+enemies. On each dead body sat a dove, supposed to be mourning. Then
+came a horrible sight, one which I never wish to see again. About a
+hundred madly excited men dressed in long white robes, armed with
+swords, were slashing their heads until the blood was streaming
+down their faces on to the robes, white, alas, no longer! As they
+reached the tank of water they formed into a line all round it, and
+kept up for some length of time a horrible kind of war dance. It was
+a ghastly sight. The dancers looked more like demons than men. One
+poor man fainted from loss of blood, and had to be carried away,
+and a little boy of about eight years of age also collapsed. It was
+bad enough to see grown men cutting themselves, but to see the little
+children being wounded in this way was terrible. This is, of course,
+looked upon as a work of great merit. The more numerous and deeper
+the gashes, the greater the merit they accrue to themselves. The
+wild dance was continued till a sign was given to the dancers by
+the governor, that he had seen enough to satisfy him. Then they all
+lined up in front of the verandah where the governor was sitting, and
+demanded that five notorious prisoners should be released from the
+prison close by. He at once acceded to their request, as it was the
+custom at this festival for the governor to release from the prison
+any prisoners who are interceded for by these wild, fanatical dancers.
+
+After this ghastly sight came a motley crowd of men and children on
+horses, all beating their breasts or heads. Some of the riders were
+so tiny that they had to be held on to their steeds by men-servants.
+
+Then came another body on a bier, with a man dressed in a lion's skin,
+embracing and fondling the dead body. It looked so weird to see the
+pseudo-lion kissing and hugging the remains of its late friend and
+master, and expressing in various ways great sorrow and anguish over
+its loss.
+
+After this came several batches of boys stripped to the waist, all
+beating their breasts. It was really a very pretty sight, for the
+boys kept such perfect time, one boy acting as leader, like a group of
+children performing gymnastic exercises. As their hands simultaneously
+clapped their breasts, there was a sharp report, at which they all
+shouted "Hassain! Hussein! Hassain! Hussein!" The whole proceeding
+was an interesting but sad spectacle, which I shall never forget. The
+clash of swords, the beating of drums, the weird wailing of the women,
+accompanied by their spasmodic shrieks, the shouting and yelling of
+the fanatical mob, all contributed to the making up of one of the
+most notable scenes of Eastern life. And yet it made one's heart
+ache to watch this crowd of human beings for whom Christ died, and
+who as yet know nothing of Him, but are only anxious to obtain merit
+for themselves by taking part in these gruesome religious performances.
+
+All over Persia "religious men" are much looked up to and
+respected. Of these the dervish is one very much to the fore. He is
+a religious mendicant, having taken a vow either for a certain time
+or permanently. The vow is not a very strict one, only consisting
+of poverty and obedience to a chief, to whom a portion of the alms
+received must be paid.
+
+These dervishes wander from place to place, chanting, singing, and
+begging. The natives do not like to refuse them anything, from fear
+more than love, perhaps, as it is considered meritorious to give alms
+to these religious people.
+
+They generally dress in dirty white, wear their hair long, and carry
+an axe or club, more often than not beautifully chased and inlaid, also
+the well-known dervish bowl, which is made from a huge nut, carved and
+decorated. Often these dervishes will come and seat themselves in the
+courtyard and begin their monotonous chant, and it is very difficult
+to get them to move, as the servants will never use force, and their
+reiterated requests to "move on" meet with no success whatever till
+the dervish is satisfied that he has extracted all the "backsheesh"
+likely to be forthcoming.
+
+The Seyyids are another class of people much respected in the
+country. They claim to be the direct descendants of the prophet
+Mohammed, and are allowed many privileges on account of this. They
+wear a green turban or waistband, to be known of all men. Looked upon
+as a religious body, the natives are afraid to offend them in any way.
+
+Then there are the "mullahs," or priests of the Islamic faith. They
+exercise a great deal of power over the people, but are not, as a rule,
+loved by them over much.
+
+The Persians are Shiah Mohammedans, whilst the Arabs and Turks are
+Sunnis. As the former know very little Arabic, the reading of the
+Koran is to them an unknown tongue, and they regard their "mullahs" as
+"sacred men," able to interpret the "Holy Book." Thus the Shiah priest
+gains great influence, not to say considerable wealth, in Persia, and
+the Shah himself fears the influence of the priesthood. The Sunnis, on
+the other hand, know Arabic, as a general rule, and many of them are
+able to consult the Koran for themselves, the result being that the
+"mullah" gains but little influence compared to the "Shiah" priest,
+and is often quite poor. Briefly, the Shiah priesthood is comparable
+with that of the Roman Catholic Church of Christendom, while "Sunni"
+mullahs do not claim, or would claim in vain, any such authority, thus
+more nearly resembling the "status" of Church of England clergy. The
+result is obvious: Persia is a priest-ridden country; in "Sunni"
+lands the people are freer, and dare think for themselves. It is
+a well-known fact that a Persian mullah will exact the uttermost
+farthing from his followers, but will never lend a helping hand to
+them in their need. For instance, if a man dies without an heir, his
+property according to law goes to the poor, but unfortunately it has to
+be done through a medium, and that medium is the mullah. He promptly
+pockets the property and gives its supposed value (valued, mark you,
+by himself) to the poor. We can imagine what a large percentage the
+poor receive of that property.
+
+Here is a story which was told us in Kerman, illustrating how loath
+the mullahs are to give anything away. The scene is a large pool of
+water, in it a mullah struggling to reach the bank, and in danger
+of drowning. A passer-by, seeing his distress, runs to his aid and
+cries, "Give me your hand, oh my lord, and I will pull you out." "No,
+indeed," answers the mullah, "I have never yet given anything to
+any one, and I certainly will not begin now." The kindly passer-by,
+not liking to leave the mullah in his sad condition, tries to think
+of another way out of the difficulty. Suddenly a bright idea strikes
+him, and running to the priest, he calls out, "Will you take my hand,
+then, oh my lord?" "Gladly," says the mullah, and allows himself to
+be drawn out of his perilous position.
+
+Another rather good story is told, showing the meanness of the
+priests. A man had agreed to pay a workman eight krans (2s. 8d.) for
+digging a hole one yard square. At the end of the day the workman had
+only dug a hole half a yard square, so the master went to a mullah to
+ask him how much he ought to pay the workman. "Why, of course," says
+the mullah, "half the sum agreed upon, that is, four krans." After
+deliberating awhile he said, "No, two krans is enough," and this
+decision he gave as final, although he impressed upon the man that
+one kran was all he could legally claim, as he had scientifically
+only done one-eighth of his work!
+
+In the next chapter we shall see a little of another religious sect,
+which is fast becoming a power in Persia.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+OTHER RELIGIOUS SECTS
+
+    Other religious sects--The Bab and Babism--Short sketch of
+    life of the Bab--His imprisonment and execution--Parsees, or
+    Zoroastrians--Persecutions of Parsees in seventh century--Sacred
+    writings of Parsees, Zendavesta--Fire-worshipping--Fire
+    temples--Holy fire--Parsee wedding--Costume of women--Death
+    customs--Burial customs.
+
+
+            "How many crimes have in religion's name been wrought."
+
+                                                              Lucretius.
+
+
+                               "Too oft religion has the mother been
+                                Of impious act and criminal."
+
+                                                              Lucretius.
+
+
+The founder of Babism was a native of Shiraz, by name Mirza Ali
+Muhammed, born in 1820; it was not till 1844 that he publicly
+proclaimed himself to be The Bab or Gate, through which all who wished
+for peace and happiness might pass into the inner chambers of mysticism
+and sacred mysteries. He soon gathered a large following around him,
+and in an astonishingly short time the fame of the Bab was noised
+abroad throughout the length and breadth of Persia. At first the
+Government and mullahs paid little attention to this new religion,
+thinking and believing it to be only a passing fancy of the people,
+but in its second year it took such rapid strides that they began to
+be alarmed, and to look about for means of checking its progress. The
+Bab was placed in prison, and his followers were forbidden, on pain
+of death, to teach or discuss their new religion. Soon afterwards,
+however, the Bab escaped, and fled to Isphahan, where the governor
+of that city protected him for some months, but on the death of the
+governor the Bab was again cast into prison. During his imprisonment
+he was not idle, for he wrote many books, setting forth his doctrines,
+and exhorting his followers to remain firm to their new faith in the
+face of all opposition and persecution.
+
+While the Bab was busy in prison, his followers were also busy,
+preaching and teaching, and by all means trying to extend the doctrines
+of their leader, and so great was the opposition and strife raised
+that the Government decided that the Bab must forfeit his life as a
+means of putting a stop once and for all to this new and dangerous
+sect. Accordingly the Bab was brought from Tabriz, where he had been
+imprisoned, and after a mock trial was sentenced to death. On the day
+appointed for his execution an enormous crowd gathered to witness his
+end--many from curiosity, and also many from love and pity for the
+youthful martyr, who to the last maintained the calmness and courage
+which had characterised his whole term of imprisonment.
+
+To make the lesson more emphatic, it was decided that two of the
+Bab's chief disciples were to be executed with him. One of these
+at the last moment recanted, and so was allowed to go free. It was
+said that his recantation arose not from cowardice or fear of death,
+but from a special revelation given to him, whereby he was commanded
+to recant in order to be able to carry away all books and papers
+belonging to the Bab, and deposit them in a safe place: however that
+may be, it is known that after an interval of two years he too became a
+martyr. Efforts were made to entice the other disciple to recant, but
+all proved unavailing, and he and his master the Bab were suspended,
+by ropes placed under their arms, to a beam placed a few feet from
+the ground. As they hung thus the disciple was heard to say, "Master,
+art thou satisfied with me?" and then the order was given to fire. When
+the smoke cleared away the body of the disciple was found to be riddled
+with bullets, but no Bab was visible. What had happened? Had a miracle
+been performed, and an angel been sent to rescue him from the hand of
+his persecutors? This was the thought of some, and, indeed, a miracle
+had been performed, for in spite of the many bullets which had been
+aimed at him not one had touched the Bab, but had only brought him
+deliverance by severing the ropes which bound him, so that he fell
+to the ground unhurt. At first it seemed as if the multitude would
+have pity on the unfortunate man, and spare him a second attempt,
+but these feelings were only of short duration, and the Bab was again
+dragged forth from his hiding-place, where he had taken refuge, and
+was a second time suspended. A fresh batch of soldiers had to be told
+off for the execution, as the first company absolutely refused to fire
+again. This time there was no intervention, and in a second or two
+the body of the young martyr of Shiraz was pierced with bullets. The
+bodies were cast out to the jackals, but were afterwards recovered
+and buried in Teheran by the order of the new Bab, Mirza Yahya.
+
+This event took place in 1850, and in spite of persecutions,
+oppositions, and cruelties, the Babis continued to grow in number and
+strength, and to-day they form a very large and important community
+throughout Persia. In fact, by the very barbarity of the persecutors
+their own end was defeated, for all the people were astonished at the
+heroism and fortitude displayed by the martyrs. Professor Brown [1]
+says, "Often have I heard Persians who did not themselves belong to
+the proscribed sect tell with admiration how Suleyman Khan, his body
+pierced with well-nigh a score of wounds, in each of which was inserted
+a lighted candle, went to his execution singing with exultation." The
+effect of such courage and heroism was only to stir up more people
+to be disciples of the Bab, as the following story shows.
+
+During the persecutions in Yezd, a young man went to scoff and jeer,
+but when he saw with what courage the martyrs endured torture,
+and met death, he called out, "I am a Babi, kill me too." While we
+were in Yezd the Babis were keeping very quiet, but, nevertheless,
+a great work was going on amongst them, but none dared say, "I am
+a Babi." A year or two after our departure from Persia we heard of
+terrible cruelties and persecutions enacted against these suffering
+people, but in spite of all, their number continues to grow and
+increase throughout the whole land of Persia, and to-day the Babis
+are stronger and more numerous than ever before.
+
+The Parsees of Persia are another most interesting and important
+sect: they live chiefly in Yezd and Kerman. They are a people within
+a people, living in Persia, and with the Persians, yet keeping quite
+distinct from the present inhabitants of the land. Only a few thousand
+of this large and influential body of people, who up till the seventh
+century were the inhabitants of the land, now remain in Persia. When
+the armies of Mohammed conquered Persia, most of these people fled to
+India; others preferred to adhere to the new religion, while a few
+remained faithful to their old belief, and refused either to flee
+to a new and strange country, or to change their creed, and so they
+remain till this day a distinct people, following their own customs,
+and holding to their own religion amidst a new and domineering nation.
+
+The founder of the Parsee religion was one called Zoroaster. Very
+little is known of his life; his birthplace is uncertain, though it
+is known he lived for many years in Bactria of Eastern Persia, and it
+is probable that it was in this place that he thought out the idea,
+from which in later years he constructed his religious system. The
+priests of this religion were the "magi" of the Old and New Testament,
+and it is very likely that at least one of the "wise men of the East"
+who went to offer their adoration to the new-born King was from these
+Parsees of Persia.
+
+The date of Zoroaster is very uncertain too. It is known, however,
+that in the sixth century B.C., when Cyrus was king, the Zoroastrian
+religion was firmly established in Western Persia. Some historians
+give him a date between 1000 and 1400 B.C.
+
+The sacred writings of the Parsees are called the Zendavesta, and are
+said to be inspired by God through one of their priests. This priest,
+having cleansed and bathed himself in the most careful manner, lay
+down to sleep clothed in pure white linen. He is said to have fallen
+into a deep sleep, from which he did not awake for seven days; at the
+end of which time he awoke and recited the faith of the Zoroastrians,
+while priests in waiting committed the whole to writing. In this way
+was the Zendavesta reduced to the form of a book.
+
+While fire-worshipping forms a large part of their religion, it is
+quite a mistake to suppose it comprises the whole, for Zoroaster laid
+down many laws concerning morality and the duties and destiny of man.
+
+The Parsees of to-day, as seen in Kerman and Yezd, are a fine race;
+their commercial ability is very much above that of the ordinary
+Persian, and they are a much cleaner and more moral set of people
+than their conquerors. They regard fire as something sacred, as being
+the symbol of their god, and nothing will induce them to treat fire
+lightly. For instance, we could never persuade our Parsee servants
+to blow out a candle; and smoking is prohibited on account of their
+religious principles, though nowadays many do smoke in secret. Their
+habits of cleanliness and continual personal ablutions have perhaps
+contributed to make them the healthy race they are to-day. A good
+Parsee will wash many times a day, always before and after praying,
+as well as on many other occasions.
+
+All Parsees wear a girdle round their waists, twisted into three
+knots in a most complicated and intricate way. Whenever they wash
+they must take this off, and after their ablutions are over they
+replace the girdle, repeating certain prayers for each knot. These
+three knots represent the threefold cord, which is not easily broken,
+of good thoughts, good words, good deeds.
+
+There are said to be some thirty or forty fire temples still existing
+in Yezd, and in these the holy fire is always burning; the light is
+never allowed to go out, it being the work of the priests to keep it
+continually bright and trimmed.
+
+The office of priesthood descends from father to son, and besides
+attending to the religious needs of the people, the priest is also
+supposed to look after their temporal necessities, especially in the
+case of poverty-stricken families.
+
+Parsee women have a much freer life than their Persian sisters;
+they go about the streets quite openly, never veiling their faces,
+and altogether enjoy a much better position than the Mohammedan
+women. In some cases the women are even allowed to eat with the men
+of the house--a great concession indeed! The children are bright, and
+in many cases clever. When seven days old an astrologer is consulted
+as to the future of the infant; and when seven years old a boy is
+blessed by the priest, who invests him with the sacred girdle, at the
+same time throwing upon the child's head portions of fruit, spices,
+and drops of perfume.
+
+Girls are married when quite young, and the astrologer is again
+consulted on this important matter. When in Yezd we were invited
+to a Parsee wedding, and a very interesting sight it was. The
+invitation--which was written in letters of gold, and arrived some days
+before the date fixed for the ceremony--was acknowledged and accepted
+by us with much pleasure, as we were anxious to see something of the
+customs of these interesting people.
+
+When the day arrived we arrayed ourselves in gala attire, and set
+out to the house of the bride. It was just midnight when we arrived,
+and already the guests, some hundreds of them, had been feasting
+for hours--in fact, I might say "days," for this was the seventh
+and last day of the wedding festivities, and many of the guests
+had been present each day. They all looked thoroughly worn-out and
+tired. A room had been set apart for the Europeans to dine in, and
+just after midnight a most sumptuous dinner was served, consisting
+of about a dozen courses. When this had been satisfactorily disposed
+of we dispersed to visit the different rooms occupied by the guests,
+my husband remaining with the men, while I and another English lady
+sought out the bride to give her our salaams and good wishes. The
+confusion was terrible--drums beating, cymbals clashing, women dancing
+and singing, children yelling and crying, and amid it all, seated
+upon the ground, sat the poor little bride-elect. No one seemed to
+be taking much notice of her, every one apparently aiming to amuse
+herself in the most noisy way possible.
+
+By-and-by a large, silk-covered cushion was brought out from a
+back room, and on this the bride was placed, and covered entirely
+with a large silk shawl. I wondered what was going to happen next,
+when suddenly a group of men appeared at the door. These were the
+representatives of the bridegroom, who came to ask formally for the
+hand of the bride. They came and stood in front of the covered-up
+bride, and called in a loud voice, "Oh, my daughter, will you
+consent to be the bride of this man?" (naming the bridegroom). This
+was repeated six times amidst a silence which could be felt, all
+listening for the answer of the bride. On their repeating the question
+the seventh time, a very timid "Balli" (Yes) was heard coming from
+the region of the shawl, upon which the commotion started again with
+redoubled vigour, in the excitement caused by the acceptance on the
+part of the bride of her bridegroom. Of course this was a mere form,
+as everything had been arranged long beforehand. I shocked one good
+old lady by asking what would happen if the bride had said "No"
+instead of "Yes" to the oft-repeated question!
+
+After receiving this very satisfactory answer to their inquiries the
+men went off, and the women began to prepare the bride for the last and
+most important part of the programme--viz. that of taking her to the
+home of the bridegroom. They covered her with a large silk chuddar,
+and over her head threw a thick shawl, so that the poor girl could
+see nothing, and had to be led and supported on each side by her
+proud relatives. The distance between the two houses might perhaps
+have taken five minutes to walk in an ordinary way, but that night
+we took quite an hour. The procession was headed by two "vakeels"
+(agents), who were bargaining the whole way as to the dowry of the
+bride. Every now and then they would come to a standstill, and the
+bride's vakeel would refuse to go a step further till more money had
+been paid, and after a great deal of shouting, gesticulating, and
+wrangling, the bridegroom's vakeel would end by throwing some coins
+into the other's hand, and then the procession would proceed for a few
+steps till blocked once more, while the whole process of bargaining
+was gone through again. Fireworks were going off the whole time,
+and were apparently laid along the route, for every now and then we
+were startled by having a rocket fly up from beneath our feet. About
+every twenty yards or so we came across huge bonfires of dried faggots
+right in our path, and the whole procession had to wait till these
+had died down before they could pass on. Arriving at the door of the
+bridegroom's house, a final and most exciting scene took place between
+the two vakeels, the one threatening even then to take the bride away,
+and the other, getting more wildly angry every minute, declaring he did
+not want the bride, and would not pay a "para" (1/2d.) more for her,
+and ending up by giving the sum bargained for. If we had not known
+it was all part of the ceremony, we might have expected the two men
+to come to blows; but it all ended happily, and we trooped into the
+new home of the bride. Then came a long time of weary waiting, during
+which my sympathies went out to the tired, frightened bride; but just
+as we thought there was nothing more to wait for, three interesting
+scenes took place. The first was the actual marriage ceremony, in
+which a priest read many long prayers from a book, and then tied the
+couple together with a silk thread and pronounced a blessing upon them.
+
+The second scene took place in the open courtyard, in the centre of
+which was burning the sacred fire placed on a pedestal. The priest
+and parents of the bride and bridegroom now joined hands with the
+happy couple and walked in solemn single file round and round the
+fire, the priest chanting the whole time; this was done seven times,
+and then all retired quietly, leaving the fire burning in the court.
+
+To the third and final scene only a favoured few were admitted;
+fortunately I was amongst that number. Into the room prepared for the
+newly-married couple the little wife was now led, and for the first
+time the coverings were taken from her head and face. She was placed
+on a huge silk-covered mattress, then the husband came and took his
+seat by her side: both of them were looking thoroughly miserable! One
+of the women then brought a copper basin and ewer filled with milk,
+and the bridegroom proceeded to wash his wife's feet in milk, and she
+in her turn washed his hands. This done, we all bade farewell to the
+newly-married couple and the wedding ceremony was at an end. Hastily
+saying good-bye to our host and hostess, and expressing our good
+wishes for the welfare and happiness of the young people, we made
+our way homewards, to find it was not very far off dawn, but having
+thoroughly enjoyed our first experience of a Parsee wedding ceremony.
+
+The costume of the Parsee women is rather quaint and pretty; it
+consists of very baggy trousers gathered in at the ankle. These
+trousers are often made of very pretty pieces of embroidery joined
+together. As soon almost as a girl can sew she begins to embroider
+strips of brightly-coloured materials in order to have them ready
+for her wedding trousseau. Over these garments they wear a loose
+shirt reaching to just below the knees; this is also made of strips
+of different coloured materials, or in the case of a bride is also
+embroidered. Then comes the head-dress: it is far beyond my powers
+to say of how many pieces this is composed, or as to how they are
+arranged. The number of coverings on their heads is legion! First comes
+a little tight cap fitting closely over the head and ears. Over this is
+arranged in a most marvellous way some six or seven different pieces
+of calico or linen, the top one of all generally being a very bright
+calico, a mixture of red and yellow being the favourite pattern. The
+men are obliged to wear dowdy colours as a mark of submission to the
+powers that be. For the same reason also they are not allowed to ride
+through the bazaars, and if a Parsee is riding outside the city and
+meets a Moslem he promptly has to dismount and walk till he has passed
+his more fortunate neighbour; then he may resume his riding. This is,
+I believe, the case even if the Moslem be a poor man and the Parsee
+a flourishing merchant.
+
+To pass from life to death. A Parsee when he is dying sends for
+the priest, who anoints him with sacred juice, repeats some verses
+from the "Avesta," and prays for a safe crossing of the "bridge" and
+admission into Paradise. As soon as the breath has left the body,
+a dog is brought in from the street to ascertain if life is really
+extinct. This idea originated evidently from the old Zoroastrian
+idea that the evil spirit is expelled from a dead body by means of
+a "four-eyed dog" being brought in and made to look at the dead,
+the extra "two" eyes being represented by two black spots over the
+brow of the dog. The body is then placed on a bier and carried to the
+Towers of Silence, or "dakhmehs," by men specially set apart for that
+purpose. These men are looked upon as unclean from their contact with
+the dead, therefore only those whose work it is to do so will touch
+the body, the cleansing necessary after defilement from contact with
+the dead being so exacting and laborious.
+
+On arriving at the dakhmeh, prayers are recited by the priests and
+the body laid on an iron grating, so that when the vultures and other
+birds of prey have done their horrible work, the bones fall down and
+are safe from molestation by dogs and jackals.
+
+The dakhmehs, always some distance from the town, are built in
+a circular shape, some of the largest being 200 or so feet in
+diameter. They are generally built on rising ground, and form a
+landmark for many miles around.
+
+Prayers for the dead are said for three or four days after the death,
+and holy fire is kept burning in the house of the deceased during
+the whole of that time, as the soul is not supposed to leave the body
+till the fourth day after death.
+
+The better-class Parsees "mourn" for a year after the death of a near
+relative; that is, they keep up certain ceremonials for that length
+of time, and offer flowers and fruits on behalf of their dead.
+
+The Parsees have a governing body called the Anjiman. This consists of
+a number of leading men, representatives of each class of society. The
+Persian Government acknowledges the Anjiman, and accepts one of its
+number to act as its representative.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+DESERT DELIGHTS
+
+    Songs of the desert--Sunsets, sunrises, mirages--Illness in the
+    desert--Mehman khanehs, caravanserais--Chappa khanehs--Lost in
+    the desert--Its cruelties, and sadness.
+
+
+                                                 "The desert wide
+                            Lies round thee like a trackless tide
+                            In waves of sand forlornly multiplied."
+
+                                                            F. W. Faber.
+
+
+To a lover of the desert a journey across its boundless tracts is
+always full of interest and delight. It is strange what an attraction
+the desert has for some people, and stranger still is the fact that
+this magnetic power increases as time passes, and instead of wearying
+of the wilderness, they love it more and more. And any one who has once
+heard the call of the desert is always longing to answer that call, and
+to fly once more, as a needle to its magnet, to that great, wondrous
+world. For it is a world of its own, this great, boundless ocean of
+sand--a world altogether different from any other part of God's earth.
+
+I once heard an address on "The Desert," and the speaker said that
+he did not think it possible for any one with an uneasy conscience
+to bear the solitariness of the desert. Be this as it may, one thing
+is sure: no one can live and travel in the desert without feeling
+the majestic Presence of God. Everything speaks of Him, the great
+sea of sand, the flowers springing into blossom at His word, the
+tiny lizard darting across your path, and other countless creatures,
+all finding life and sustenance in the desert, each telling of the
+wonderful Creator who watches over and cares for all.
+
+The songs of the desert, too, are fascinating; songs which, heard
+elsewhere, would seem incongruous and lacking in harmony. The camel
+or mule bells, booming out in the silence of the night, remind one
+of home and loved ones. Often have I been awakened in the night
+by the sound of the caravan bells, and for a moment thought they
+were the bells of the dear old church in Devonshire. Then, again,
+the crooning songs of the muleteer, as he trudges along hour after
+hour, have a peculiar charm, which grows on one wondrously after a
+while. And what can be said of the marvellous mirages--visions which
+come as messengers of hope and leave us victims of despair? For who
+has not experienced relief and joy at the sight of some beautiful
+mirage, resembling the welcome sight of a village with trees and
+water, all apparently within easy reach of the weary traveller,
+but which in a moment of time vanish, leaving blank disappointment
+behind. And where can be seen such glorious sunset effects as in
+the desert? especially when, as is so often the case in Persia, the
+desert is surrounded by mountains and hills, which catch the after
+glow, and reflect all those indescribable shades of crimson, gold,
+and blue, all merging into a beatific and not easily forgotten vision.
+
+But to come to the more practical side of desert life. Travelling in
+the desert is not all a path of roses, but, given good health, fine
+weather, and pleasant company, it is a very enjoyable way of passing
+two or three weeks. On the other hand, I know of nothing more wretched
+than being overtaken by illness when far away in the desert. Then you
+feel how utterly alone and helpless you are, for it is impossible to
+travel on, and at the same time well-nigh impossible to stay where
+you are! We have had this experience more than once during our many
+travels, and found it not at all pleasant. Once I was taken ill in this
+way, and the only place to be found as shelter was a filthy stable,
+full of rats, cockroaches, and other horrible creatures.
+
+If you wish thoroughly to enjoy a journey across the desert, you must
+choose your time well and wisely. The best time is the early spring,
+before the great heat begins. If it is essential to travel during
+the summer, all the stages have to be done by night, and this is much
+more tiring, as it is seldom possible to sleep during the day owing
+to the pest of flies, mosquitoes, and other lively companions.
+
+The rest-houses of Persia are of three grades or kinds, viz. "mehman
+khanehs," "chappa khanehs," and caravanserais. The first of these
+three are found between Resht and Teheran. They are supposed to
+be run after the plan of a European hotel! Beds are supplied, and
+sometimes a tooth-brush and comb! The traveller is shown into a room
+in which the beds are kept ready for all passers-by: it is not thought
+necessary to change the bedding too often! The furniture consists of a
+washstand, table, and couple of chairs, and everything is as dirty as
+can be. I much prefer the ordinary caravanserai, which is found all
+over Persia. These are generally built by a wealthy man who wishes
+to do some "good deed," to make a name for himself, and gain merit
+in Paradise. A caravanserai is not the cleanest spot on earth! But
+after travelling a little you get used to a certain amount of dirt,
+and are very much surprised if by chance you come across a fairly
+clean rest-house. These caravanserais are built, as a rule, in the
+form of a square, the sides of which are occupied by rooms leading off
+the courtyard, the centre being the resting-place of mules, donkeys,
+horses, and all other kinds of animals. At the end of the stage you
+fix on the cleanest of these rooms, and your servant sweeps all the
+accumulated dirt and dust of ages into one corner, thus raising a
+cloud of dust and disturbing the peace of myriads of "pilgrims of the
+desert." After waiting a few minutes to allow the dust to settle a
+little, you then furnish your room for the night by spreading a rug on
+the filthy floor, and setting up your travelling beds, chair, tables,
+&c. As likely as not, there will be no door to the room, so you knock
+in a couple of nails and fasten a curtain over the doorway to keep
+out the prying eyes of your too near and inquisitive neighbours. Then
+you begin to think about your evening meal, and your servant goes off
+to bargain and wrangle over some unfortunate fowl, the result being
+that in about an hour's time your dinner is ready, and shortly after
+you very thankfully retire to rest, hoping for the best.
+
+The chappa khanehs, or post-houses, are often a trifle cleaner than
+the caravanserai. Here the animals are kept for the post, and any
+one travelling "chappa" is supposed to find fresh relays of horses
+at each of these places, but very often the number is short, and the
+poor, wretched, underfed animal has to do duty for a second stage: a
+"stage" is anything from fifteen to thirty miles. My husband once rode
+"chappa" from Yezd to Kerman, a distance of 250 miles, in 2 1/2 days,
+to attend an English doctor who was very ill with typhoid fever. It
+was very hard and rough riding; the roads were bad, the horses worse,
+some of the animals being blind, others lame, while the majority of
+them were so over-worked and badly fed that it seemed impossible
+that they could ever do the stage. A doctor once riding in this
+way to visit a European, is said to have arrived at one of these
+post-houses, and finding no horse, demanded a mule. On this beast
+he made the next stage, to be told on arrival that there was only
+a donkey available. Nothing better presenting itself, he accepted
+this mount, and in time reached the next stage, where he was met
+with the comforting announcement that the only animal at liberty was
+a cow! History seems uncertain after this point, so we will draw a
+veil over it!
+
+Sometimes these caravanserais and chappa khanehs are the only signs
+of life to be seen at the end of a stage. There they stand, alone,
+surrounded on all hands by vast stretches of desert, and form a
+landmark for miles around. One such I remember very well, as each
+time we passed that way it seemed to have become more lonely and
+desolate. Visible from a distance of 5 farsakhs (18 miles), it made
+the stage seem very long! The atmosphere is so rarefied that distant
+objects appear near, and the buildings, which were in reality 15 miles
+away, looked quite close at hand. In this chappa khaneh we were once
+guilty of inscribing our names on its already well-filled walls. Some
+years after a lady was visiting us in Mosul, and told us she had read
+our names in that far-distant chappa khaneh.
+
+It is not a very pleasant sensation to be lost in a desert. Only once
+did this experience befall us, and then we were glad when it was over.
+
+We were on our way from Yezd to Kerman, and had reached the second
+stage out. We had arranged with our muleteer to start at a certain
+hour that morning, but when we came down from the "bala khaneh"
+(upstairs room) where we had been sleeping, we found no signs of our
+caravan being ready to start. After loitering about for some time, we
+decided not to wait any longer, but to ride on ahead. This was quite
+contrary to our usual custom, as we always found it wiser to see the
+caravan off first, otherwise the muleteers dawdled half the morning
+away. However, we thought this once we would alter our plans, as the
+dawn was even then breaking, and we knew that in a very short time
+the sun would be scorchingly hot. So off we went, telling our servant
+to follow as soon as possible. We received minute instructions as to
+which direction we were to take, and thought we could not possibly
+mistake our road.
+
+Outside the town, on the edge of the desert, we came to two roads, one
+leading straight ahead, the other branching to the left. We decided
+to take the former, thinking it looked more trodden, thereby showing
+more signs of traffic. So we went gaily on. My husband occasionally
+remarked, "I hope we are on the right road," and I always lightly
+answered, "Oh yes, I am sure we are," as I pointed out to him the
+fact that we were following the same path along which another caravan
+had evidently passed a few hours before. Howbeit we were not on the
+right road, as we very soon found to our cost. By this time the sun
+was blazing down upon us, and we began to wonder why our servants and
+caravan had not caught us up. Time went on, and not a sign of life
+was to be seen. Standing in our stirrups, we scanned the horizon, but
+nothing could we see but the scorching sand. We then began seriously to
+think that we had taken the wrong turning and were lost. Lost in the
+desert, without a drop of water or a scrap of food! Pleasant thoughts
+these were as companions! We could not go back: to go forward was
+worse than useless. After considering a little as to the best thing
+to be done, we decided to gallop on till we came to a small hill to
+be seen in the distance. This we accordingly did, and as we neared
+the summit saw to our great thankfulness a tiny speck on the horizon
+in the direction from which we had come. This "speck" soon developed
+into a moving object, and by-and-by we could see the figure of a
+man and horse galloping hard. As the horse and rider came nearer,
+our thankfulness was indeed great to see that the rider was our own
+servant, George. If ever we had cause for thankfulness it was then,
+and we certainly said, and felt from our very hearts, "Alhamd' llillah"
+(Praise be to God!), and vowed we would never stray away again from
+our caravan unless we were quite sure of our road.
+
+Our man was so delighted to see us safe and sound that he wept for
+joy. After a long delay the caravan had at last started from the chappa
+khaneh just as the sun was rising, and set out upon its way. They were
+all surprised to think we had gone so far, but concluded at first
+that we had galloped on in order to reach the lunching-place before
+the great heat. On arriving at the spot, however, great was their
+dismay to find we had not yet arrived. Our servant immediately rode
+back to the village to make inquiries. On his way he met a man who
+told him he had seen us riding off in the opposite direction. George
+immediately took the path indicated, with the result already told. By
+the time we regained our caravan we were well-nigh worn out with heat
+and thirst, having been under the blazing sun without food or water
+for most of the hottest hours of the day, but very thankful to be on
+the right track once more.
+
+One thing that saddens a European traveller during a journey in
+Persia is to see the cruel way in which the muleteer often treats
+his animals. The sufferings of these poor beasts are terrible. I
+often longed to be able to thrash the muleteer for his cruelty to
+a poor, long-suffering little donkey. Bowed down, maybe, under a
+load twice his own size, the poor ass does his best to keep up with
+the other animals, but only receives kicks and hard knocks for his
+pains. The wretched creature is urged on and on by having a steel
+or iron instrument run into some horribly sore place by his kind
+and compassionate owner. Often have I seen a mule or donkey stumble
+and fall beneath its enormous load, unable to raise itself, till its
+master with blows and curses comes to lend a hand. Again and again
+will this happen, till at last the poor beast can go no further,
+and is left to its fate. Death is the kindest master some of these
+suffering creatures possess.
+
+I remember once seeing a mule unloaded, and the sight under the
+pack-saddle was enough to make one's heart ache. A deep wound about
+twelve inches long was exposed to view, just under the arch of the
+saddle, where all the heaviest pressure and friction came. The owner
+then heated till red hot a long wire rod, passing it through and
+through this wound till the poor creature was nearly mad with pain and
+agony. The next day a boy was ordered to ride this wretched beast,
+but the stench from the wound was so great, and the flies attracted
+by it so numerous, that he could not endure it, and asked to be
+given another animal. This request was granted, but the poor brute
+of a mule had to pay the penalty by receiving an extra load upon his
+poor wounded back. At the first town we came to, the muleteer sold
+this mule, doubtless to some one who would work the last particle of
+strength out of him. Poor burdened beasts of the desert! one can only
+hope for them a speedy end to their troubles, and rest hereafter.
+
+Another sad sight to be seen in the desert sometimes, are brick pillars
+in which some unfortunate victim has been walled up alive. This is a
+horrible method of inflicting capital punishment. The victim is put
+into the pillar, which is half built up in readiness; then if the
+executioner is merciful he will cement quickly up to the face, and
+death comes speedily. But sometimes a small amount of air is allowed
+to permeate through the bricks, and in this case the torture is cruel
+and the agony prolonged. Men bricked up in this way have been heard
+groaning and calling for water at the end of three days. At other
+times the victim is placed in the pillar head first, and in this way
+he is walled up.
+
+The first time I saw these pillars was in the desert outside Yezd,
+and I could hardly believe the awful tales which were told me of the
+cruelties perpetrated; but alas, they were all too true! It is sad
+that the beauty of the desert should be desecrated by such things.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+PERSIAN MEDICAL MISSIONS [2]
+
+    The need of them--Work in Isphahan--The "little devil" transformed
+    into a boy--Amputation--Brothers in adversity--H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan
+    as a patient--Fanaticism overcome.
+
+
+                   "What restless forms to-day are lying, bound
+                    On sick beds, waiting till the hour come round
+                    That brings thy foot upon the chamber stair,
+                    Impatient, fevered, faint, till thou art there,
+                    The one short smile of sunshine to make light
+                    The long remembrance of another night."
+
+                                                    H. E. Hamilton King.
+
+
+"Medical Missions" need no apology or excuse. Even in the comparatively
+few years that have elapsed since their commencement, they have
+abundantly justified their existence, both from the missionary
+standpoint, and also as philanthropic agencies. If this be true
+for purely pagan lands, it applies even more accurately to work in
+Mohammedan countries. Medical missionary work is, without doubt, the
+golden key that unlocks the door of the heart of the most fanatical
+Moslem, be he Persian, Arab, Kurd, or Yezidee (devil worshipper). I
+write this deliberately, after eight years' experience in Persia,
+Palestine, and Mesopotamia. But in this book it is not meant specially
+to emphasise the missionary aspect of our life in these distant lands,
+but more to give a slight glimpse of native life as we found it, and
+the following, therefore, must be taken as notes from a doctor's diary,
+covering a period of eight years' work in Persia and Mesopotamia.
+
+The year 1900 found us at Isphahan. We were living in Julfa, the
+Armenian suburb of that great city, and I had temporary charge
+of the C.M.S. Medical Mission. The hospital at that period was
+simply a native house that had been adapted, more or less, for the
+requirements of a dispensary and hospital. There was no lack of work,
+patients coming from Isphahan itself, and from all the country round
+about. Soon after settling down to the routine work, a little Persian
+boy was brought to me from an outlying village by his father. He was
+about twelve years of age, and his face was badly disfigured from a
+"hare-lip." The Persians believe that this congenital malformation is
+the mark left by the foot of the Evil One, so this poor boy was known
+in his village by the unenviable title "little devil," and had been a
+good deal tormented by his playfellows. He was admitted to hospital,
+operated upon successfully, and after some ten days' careful treatment
+the dressing was finally removed, and I handed the boy a mirror that
+he might look for the first time upon his "new" face. As I watched
+his countenance while he regarded himself steadfastly in the glass,
+I was amply repaid for the time and trouble spent, by his look of joy,
+incredulity, and amazement. Tears of joy rolled down his face as he
+kissed my hand, and murmured brokenly, "I am no longer a little devil,
+I am no longer a little devil!" He could go back to his village now
+gladly, no longer fearing to join in the games of his comrades, and I
+feel sure he afterwards often posed as a hero in his little village,
+as, the centre of an admiring throng, he recounted the details of
+his visit, treatment, and cure at the Mission Hospital.
+
+In all Mohammedan lands, doctors always find it extremely difficult
+to persuade their patients to submit to amputation. However hopeless
+a condition the injured limb may be in, many would rather die than
+enter Paradise maimed. Some perhaps fancy that after death, when the
+prophet Mohammed comes to conduct them over that fragile bridge that
+leads to the "realm of the blest," he would indignantly repudiate
+the claims of an armless or legless disciple! However that may be,
+the fact remains that many a poor patient dies who might, by timely
+amputation, have recovered and lived for many years. But curiously
+enough, soon after our arrival in Julfa, I admitted, within a few
+days of each other, two Persians suffering from diseases of the legs
+necessitating amputation, and both, after much persuasion, agreed to
+the operation being performed. Both were men, and had been admitted
+to different wards, but as after-events proved, neither knew of the
+other's presence in the hospital: both thus believed that he was
+the only Mohammedan doomed to pass the rest of his life bereft of
+one leg, with the possible risk of non-admittance hereafter to the
+Moslem Paradise.
+
+The two amputations were duly performed, on different days; the
+amputated limbs being at once handed to the relatives for decent
+interment. Both patients made good recoveries, their progress being
+somewhat retarded by their continual lamentation over their irreparable
+loss. In due course of time, crutches were provided, and the two men
+were encouraged to practise walking with their aid. A day or two later
+I was standing at the door of the operation theatre, which opened into
+a corridor, with which both the men's wards communicated. Suddenly the
+doors of each ward opened simultaneously, and on the threshold stood
+these two men, leaning on their crutches, their faces a perfect picture
+as they beheld each other. Remember that, in some curious manner,
+neither had heard of the presence of the other in the hospital, and
+both firmly believed that he was the only Mohammedan that had ever
+submitted to the indignity of losing a limb, and lo and behold, here
+was a brother in affliction! Crutches were hurled on one side, and
+the two men, hopping across the corridor, excitement lending them the
+needed strength, fell into each other's arms, rolling over and over
+on the floor, weeping, condoling, exclaiming, while we watched the
+scene, highly amused, but also feeling inclined to weep in sympathy.
+
+The Governor of Isphahan was H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan (Shadow of the King),
+elder brother of the late Shah. In former years he had been much
+more powerful, and practically ruled over Southern Persia, but his
+enemies in Teheran roused the suspicions of the Shah against him. He
+was summoned to the capital, and there kept a prisoner in his house,
+but ultimately allowed to return to Isphahan shorn of his former power.
+
+The Zil-es-Sultan had his own private physician, but would often call
+in the English doctor either for himself or his household; in this
+way I made his acquaintance, and, like most Europeans who have come in
+contact with him, admired both his shrewdness and ability. He always
+proved himself a good friend to the English mission, and later I got
+to know much more intimately his eldest son, H.H. Jalal-el-Dowleh,
+who was the able governor of Yezd, a city some three hundred miles
+eastward of Isphahan.
+
+Soon after reaching Julfa, I was sent for by the governor to
+examine his eyes. I found him in a garden outside the city, which
+he had just had constructed for a summer residence. He received me
+cordially, and, after the business part of the interview was over,
+chatted freely, telling me of all he had undergone at the hands of
+other physicians. A few years before, he had become alarmed about
+the state of his eyesight, and became possessed with the idea that
+he was gradually going blind. He believed himself to be suffering
+from a very hopeless eye disease, very prevalent in Persia, known as
+"black cataract" (glaucoma), and despite the assurance to the contrary
+given by Dr. Carr (the English doctor) and others, he persisted
+in sending for two eye specialists, one from Paris, the other from
+London. Both had thoroughly examined his sight, and had confirmed
+Dr. Carr's assurances that there was no disease, but his fears had
+put him to considerable expense, as both the specialists were treated
+right royally. Laughingly he told me how much he had dreaded the
+interview with the London specialist, and how the fateful day had
+at last come. The doctor had merely lightly placed his fingers on
+the eye, felt the tension, and then had smilingly assured His Royal
+Highness that there was no fear of glaucoma, a subsequent careful
+examination confirming this verdict. "And to think," pathetically
+added the governor, "that I had spent all those thousands of pounds
+for nothing!" Of course I at once suggested that to have had all his
+fears of blindness so happily set at rest more than compensated for
+any expense that he might have incurred, but he remained unconvinced.
+
+During the year we remained in Isphahan I had many opportunities of
+being received by the governor. He always treated me with the same
+kindness, and upon our departure for Kerman, presented me with a
+large signed photograph of himself.
+
+Isphahan is a great city that has passed through many vicissitudes:
+at one time it was the capital of Persia. Its population to-day is
+probably about 150,000. As in all Shiah (Mohammedan) lands, the priests
+(mullahs) possess great power. The Moslem archbishops are termed
+"mujtiheds." In each Persian city there are generally two mujtiheds,
+one official (Sheikh-es-Islam), the other elected by the people,
+and the latter, as a rule, possessed the greater influence.
+
+In 1900 the popular mujtihed was the eldest of three brothers, all
+mullahs. His power was very great--too great for the taste of the
+Shah, if one may credit rumour. Only a few days after our arrival,
+a carriage was sent for me, from the second brother of this mujtihed,
+who for many weeks had been anxiously looking forward to the arrival
+of an English "hakim," as he was suffering from a troublesome disease
+which might at any time develop serious symptoms. All these Isphahan
+mullahs had proved themselves hostile to the presence of foreigners,
+and on more than one occasion they had endeavoured, by preaching
+against them in the mosques, to inflame the populace and cause a riot.
+
+At the patient's house I was joined by another doctor (Dr. Aganoor),
+who was also the English Vice-Consul, and to whom we were indebted
+for many acts of kindness during our stay in Isphahan. The mullah was
+really his patient, and I was called in for consultation as to the
+advisability of operating. We were ushered into a large room with
+a fountain playing in the centre, and there we found the patient,
+supported by both his brothers, besides innumerable friends.
+
+We sat in solemn conclave for over an hour, discussing the pros
+and cons of the case, and then, having decided upon the course of
+treatment, we took our departure. Some days later we were again sent
+for, and found our patient in great pain, and the whole house crowded
+with his innumerable friends, who had hurriedly come together at the
+rumour of his approaching death.
+
+Our patient was in a very excited state, angrily refusing the
+consolation offered by his disciples and friends, and violently
+shouting, "A thousand tomans (L200) to any one who can take away this
+pain." Then, as he felt an extra bad twinge, "Ten thousand tomans to
+any one who will cure this pain" (about L2000).
+
+However, we soothed him, injected a little morphia, assured him
+there was no immediate danger, and as the sedative commenced to work,
+and the pain disappeared, with it went all thought of rewarding his
+benefactors: on the contrary, he took extra trouble to explain how poor
+a man he really was, and that it was due to the malice of his enemies
+that rumour reputed him wealthy. However, to cut a long story short,
+by means of a simple operation, and much patient care and attention
+on the part of Dr. Aganoor, he ultimately made a good recovery,
+and was really grateful, using his influence afterwards rather to
+restrain than augment the anti-European fanaticism of his other two
+brethren. Later a nephew of the chief mujtihed, himself a mullah,
+actually consented to come into hospital to undergo an urgently needed
+operation, and this proving successful, gained for us another staunch
+friend from priestly quarters, whose friendship stood us in good
+stead on another occasion which might have ended rather differently,
+but for his intervention. A few months had elapsed: rumours still
+reached us from the city of occasional attempts made to stir up the
+fanaticism of the people against us, the chief offender being the
+third and youngest brother of the mujtihed before mentioned.
+
+One day Dr. Aganoor and I were both sent for in a great hurry. We
+heard that the whole city was in an uproar, that this fanatical mullah
+had been poisoned, some said "by order of the Shah," others that the
+governor had asked him to a feast, and as he returned, ere reaching
+home, the symptoms had started; others that the women of his "anderoon"
+(quarter of the house in which no man but the husband may enter)
+had given him "oil of bitter almonds" by mistake. On approaching the
+house we found a crowd round the door, and the house itself packed
+with disciples and friends of the great man. We were hurriedly shown
+into a large hall, with marble pillars and floor, densely crowded
+with a mass of human beings, all engaged in watching the last gasps of
+the poor mullah, who was lying on a pile of carpets stretched on the
+marble floor. We learnt to our dismay that he had been unconscious
+for four hours, and apparently precautions had been taken that the
+English doctors should not be called in until that amount of time
+had elapsed. Before that intent, silent, fanatical crowd, we did
+all that could be done to save the life of the man who had been our
+bitter enemy, taking turns to perform artificial respiration, &c.,
+but all in vain, for, as in my turn I worked the dying man's arms,
+he took his last breath, and I whispered Dr. Aganoor that all was
+over. It was getting towards midnight. Julfa was three miles distant,
+and we were alone in the midst of that fanatical crowd. Well did my
+colleague know that once the intimation was given that the end had
+come, the scene would baffle description; the whole city would be
+roused, and our lives might even be in danger; knowing these things,
+he whispered me to go on performing artificial respiration while he
+got ready to go. So I went on with my task, working the dead man's
+arms until all was ready for our instant departure. Then reverently
+folding his hands on his breast, I drew over his face the coverlet,
+as an intimation that all was over. I never again wish to hear such
+a yell as then arose from the throats of that great throng. Doors
+were flung open, the mob from without rushed into the room,
+women poured in belonging to the dead man's household, shrieking,
+wailing, tearing their clothes and hair. Some of them made a wild
+rush at us as they passed, and it really looked a bit serious,
+for already amidst the uproar we could detect occasional cries of
+"The Feringhis have poisoned him." To my relief, amidst the excited
+throng I noticed the face of my old friend the mujtihed's nephew,
+who had been an in-patient in the hospital, and when he noticed that
+I had observed him, he beckoned us to follow him. We obeyed gladly,
+and he led us away by a private passage, which finally emerged into
+a public square a long distance from the dead man's house. There our
+good Samaritan left us, promising to send us our horses and servants,
+whom we had left waiting outside the patient's house. As we waited
+for them to come, we could hear the sound of cries from all parts
+of the city, followed by wailing of women, and the scurrying of many
+feet, as all flocked to the quarter where the holy man's body lay. At
+last our servants and animals arrived, and we made haste to escape,
+reaching home after midnight, thankful to God for preserving us from
+what might have proved a very dangerous position. Next day we heard
+that the whole city had gone into mourning; all the bazaars were shut,
+and the shops draped with black, and this mourning was kept up five
+whole days. Rumours were persistently circulated that the English
+doctors had poisoned the mullah, but no one really believed it, and
+I was able to attend the city dispensary as usual, even during the
+funeral ceremonies, and patients rather increased than diminished,
+some of the dead man's relatives even coming for treatment.
+
+So ended priestly opposition; the chief mujtihed himself was frightened
+at the mode of his brother's death, and kept very quiet, for fear,
+perhaps, that a similar accident might happen to him. His surviving
+brother and relatives were now quite friendly, and a few years later
+Dr. Carr was able to obtain ground and build an excellent hospital
+in Isphahan itself, welcomed alike by officials and priests. There is
+also an excellent Women's Hospital (C.M.S.), in charge of Dr. Emmeline
+Stuart, who has for many years given her life to work amongst Moslem
+women, and whose name is held dear by many a poor Persian village
+woman, who has found relief and loving care at her hands, and those
+of her staff.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+PIONEER MEDICAL MISSION WORK IN KERMAN [3]
+
+    Pioneer Medical Mission work in Kerman--Waiting for drugs
+    and instruments--Native assistant proves a broken reed--First
+    operation in Kerman--An anxious moment--Success--Doctrine of
+    "savab" convenient to the Moslem--Fanaticism tempered with
+    prudence--Opium slaves--Persian therapeutics--Persian quacks and
+    their methods--Sure way of curing cancer--Hysteria.
+
+
+                           "Charms for lovers, charms to break,
+                              Charms to bind them to you wholly,
+                            Medicines fit for every ache,
+                              Fever and fanciful melancholy."
+
+                                                             R. Bridges.
+
+
+We had been appointed to open a Medical Mission in this city, and as
+soon as our temporary residence in Isphahan was finished, proceeded
+to our original destination. We arrived at Kerman early in 1901, and
+received a hearty welcome from the only other European there--the
+Rev. A. R. Blackett, also of the Church Missionary Society. Two
+houses were secured, both outside the city wall; in one we took up
+our residence, while the other was made into a dispensary, and small
+temporary hospital. Unfortunately we arrived before our supply of
+drugs and surgical instruments, so we had to do our best with the
+very small stock of medicines borrowed from our stations in Isphahan
+and Yezd. However, patients began to come in large numbers, and the
+out-patient department was soon in full swing. We had brought with us
+from Isphahan two Armenians to act as assistants, one for dispensing,
+the other (a man who had been employed in the Mission for many years)
+to interpret and help generally in the work. I had hoped much from
+this last-named assistant, and had relied upon him greatly for advice
+and help, as he had been in Kerman before, and knew the people; but I
+soon found him a "broken reed." He was married and had a large family,
+which he had been obliged to leave behind in Isphahan, and very soon
+he began to show signs of home-sickness. Then he commenced to imagine
+himself ill, and developed symptoms of different ailments. In the
+first place he one day came to me with a woeful face, and besought me
+to carefully examine his chest, for he was convinced he was developing
+phthisis. After being reassured on this point, he became absolutely
+sure that he had heart disease; next his kidneys troubled him, and
+so on, until he became a confirmed hypochondriac, and completely
+useless for work. One day I remember his coming to me imploring
+that I would inject morphia to relieve him of the intense pain from
+which he was suffering. I gravely took the hypodermic syringe, and
+carefully injected distilled water, and the pain disappeared with
+lightning rapidity!
+
+However, I had to send him home, and I believe that, once safely
+reunited to his family, he at once lost all his symptoms, and was
+able to resume his old work at the hospital.
+
+In the meanwhile my surgical patients were clamouring for operations,
+more especially those afflicted with cataract. I had opened another
+dispensary in the city itself, and many poor blind people had come
+for treatment. It went to one's heart to have to send them away day
+after day with the same disheartening story. "The instruments have not
+yet come; until they arrive, nothing can be done." I fear that many
+commenced to think that the English doctor was a fraud, and that his
+excuses concerning the instruments resembled those framed by their
+own "hakims" to hide their own ignorance. At last the boxes actually
+arrived. They had to be brought by caravan from Bushire (the port in
+the Persian Gulf) to Kerman, via Shiraz and Yezd, a distance of some
+eight hundred miles, taking a couple of months.
+
+We admitted our first in-patient, a well-known merchant in the city,
+who had been blind for three years with cataract. The Persian surgeons
+also operate for this disease, using the old Eastern operation known as
+"couching." An incision is made into the white of the eyeball (without
+any anaesthetic), then a thick, blunt probe is worked into the interior
+of the eye, directed so as to dislocate the lens. If successful, the
+lens drops back into the posterior chamber of the eye, and the patient
+"sees," but alas, the vision obtained is, in ninety-eight cases out
+of a hundred, only temporary! Twenty-four hours later, inflammation of
+the eye supervenes, and the sight is gone, and the eye lost. Needless
+to say, the operator obtains his fee either before the operation is
+done, or during the few hours that his patient is rejoicing in his
+newly found vision; then if he is wise he disappears from the town,
+and resumes his practice elsewhere. However, during eight years'
+practice in the East, and having had the opportunity of examining
+thousands of eyes, I can remember two cases only where this operation
+had been done and there had been no subsequent inflammation, but the
+great majority of eyes are lost.
+
+Well, we had our first Kerman cataract patient, and it seemed to
+us as though the whole future of the little pioneer Medical Mission
+depended upon the success or failure of that operation.
+
+The day fixed for the operation arrived: a Persian doctor practising
+in the city had requested leave to be present, no doubt on behalf of
+the many friends of the patient, to report particulars and see fair
+play. The patient was brought in, looking exceedingly nervous. After
+a short prayer (a practice almost invariably adopted in medical
+missionary hospitals, and much appreciated by the patient, even though
+he be a fanatical Moslem), the operation was started. I am afraid we
+were all unduly nervous, the possible consequences for good or ill to
+the Mission assuming undue proportions. At any rate everything went
+wrong; the cocaine (used as the anaesthetic) would not work, the old
+man could not keep his eye still, and would look up when he was told
+to look down. I was only able to complete the incision, and that with
+the greatest difficulty; and fearing to proceed further, the patient
+getting more and more excited, I had reluctantly to postpone the
+operation for a couple of days. We all felt very depressed, except,
+perhaps, the Persian "hakim," who doubtless greatly relished the
+failure of the English doctor. However, two days later we tried again,
+the Persian hakim once more being amongst the spectators. Much prayer
+had been offered up that this time there might be no hitch. Everything
+at first went well; the patient lay quite quietly, moved his eye
+exactly as he was told, the cocaine proved satisfactory, the incision
+was remade, and other preliminary steps in the operation disposed of:
+then came the hitch. In the European method of operating for cataract,
+the opaque lens is extruded from the eye by gentle pressure, through
+the incision first made. Well, when the time came for the lens to be
+extruded, it would not budge! I tried all possible means of extraction
+without success (afterwards I discovered that adhesions had formed
+between the lens and the curtain of the eye, as a result of the first
+operation). The perspiration ran down my face, as I realised what
+this second failure meant, not so much for my own reputation, but
+the hindrance it would prove to the success of the work I loved. I
+glanced at my wife: she was looking very anxious. I looked at my
+assistants: their faces were pictures of dismay. They had seen me
+before in Isphahan do many a cataract, and could not imagine what
+had gone wrong. The Persian doctor looked particularly happy: he
+smiled as he politely expressed his sorrow that I was experiencing
+any difficulty in bringing the operation to a successful issue. It
+certainly was an awkward fix--perhaps the most awkward that I have
+ever been in; but as I lifted up my heart in silent prayer to God,
+asking for guidance, the thought flashed into my mind, "The man has
+both eyes blind: you have failed with the one; do the other at once,
+and it will prove successful."
+
+Gently covering the eye that had proved a failure, I explained matters
+to the patient, obtained his permission, thoroughly cleansed his other
+eye, and proceeded to operate, meeting with no difficulty and easily
+extracting the lens, to the palpable disappointment of my Persian
+medical friend, and was overjoyed to find that the patient old man
+had obtained exceedingly good vision. After a week the patient went
+back to his friends, seeing well, and full of gratitude for all the
+kindness and care he had received. I saw him some months later, and
+inquired whether he cared to let me have another try at the eye that
+had proved unsuccessful; but he refused, saying he was an old man,
+and had obtained good sight with the one, and did not need to see
+with the other. Of course the result of this first operation had been
+anxiously awaited by many, and since it proved successful, we soon
+had our little temporary hospital full, and had no further trouble
+in getting in-patients. I have described this case rather fully,
+avoiding technical terms as far as possible, as it illustrates fairly
+well the difficulties and responsibilities met with and tackled by
+pioneer workers, be they missionary or official.
+
+The Persians (especially the Kermanis) have a great idea of doing
+"savabs" (good works), hoping to reap their reward hereafter. This is
+common to the West as well as the East; but the Kermanis in addition
+hold a convenient doctrine, namely, the appropriation of the savabs
+of infidels for themselves! At least one of the chief mullahs in
+Kerman surprised me somewhat by the cordial reception he accorded me;
+but later said, "How glad he was that I had come to Kerman and was
+doing such 'good works' amongst the sick and poor, as hereafter God
+would credit the true Moslems with all the savabs done by infidels,
+who of course could derive no benefit at all from their performance."
+
+As Kerman is a city proverbial amongst the Persians for its great
+wickedness, I could understand the old mullah's satisfaction, as
+doubtless he felt that many of their savab accounts were rather
+low and needed a trifle of "credit," which might with advantage be
+obtained from the savabs of an infidel doctor!
+
+Once yearly the Persians celebrate the death of the martyrs Hassain
+and Hussein, as has already been described in a previous chapter. We
+had a good opportunity of witnessing this Persian Passion Play
+while in Kerman. The sword-dancers, clad in white garments, work
+themselves up into a frenzy, gashing their heads with the swords
+and sometimes inflicting severe wounds. A true believer is supposed
+to have his self-inflicted wounds healed spontaneously through the
+agency of Hazrati Ali (grandson of the prophet Mohammed); but I was
+a little amused by the appearance of several of these devotees at
+my out-patient clinique some days previous to the "celebration,"
+all of them begging for a little English ointment to keep by them
+for use in case miraculous healing should be delayed.
+
+As has been already mentioned, the curse of Kerman is opium; everybody
+smokes or eats it--generally the former. The native doctors are partly
+responsible, as they recommend the drug as a "cure-all"; but even the
+cultured Kermani smokes opium, possibly to relieve the monotony of his
+life! Cases of poisoning repeatedly occur, and some of these we were
+called upon to treat. Our dispensary had a small garden attached to it,
+and when the Mission had gained the confidence of the people it was
+no uncommon sight to see several opium patients being treated at the
+same time in this garden. The treatment used, though somewhat vigorous,
+proved very effective. A man would arrive at the dispensary, escorted
+by an excited throng of relatives. On inquiry we would find that he
+had taken a big dose of opium to end his life: afterwards repenting,
+he had confessed to his relatives, and they had at once brought him
+to the English doctor. The treatment began with the administration of
+a strong emetic followed by repeated doses of strong coffee; then he
+would be handed over to the care of an attendant, with instructions to
+walk him round and round the garden and prevent his going to sleep. The
+native assistants and the patient's friends, armed with sticks, carried
+out these instructions, and at the first signs of languor exhibited
+by the unfortunate man he would be beaten and kept effectually awake!
+
+One day I was summoned in haste to the house of an influential Kermani;
+his only son, a child of two years, had been poisoned with opium. It
+is a common practice in Kerman for mothers to keep their babies from
+crying by giving them a little opium to suck. This boy's mother had
+given him a big lump by mistake, and grew alarmed when she found
+that all her attempts to wake him were ineffectual! On arriving
+at the house with my assistant, we had considerable difficulty in
+making our way into the courtyard, as it was thronged with all the
+relatives and friends; the neighbouring houses were crowded, a great
+multitude thronging the flat roofs, which commanded a good view of
+the courtyard belonging to the patient's father. On examining my
+little patient I found him nearly dead, exhibiting all the symptoms
+of an overdose of opium. However, for over an hour we worked away,
+washing out the child's stomach, injecting strong coffee, &c., all in
+the open air before the excited multitude, and gradually the little
+patient showed signs of recovery. When he had come completely round
+and was crying vigorously, there was great rejoicing. Thinking the
+opportunity too good a one to be lost, I asked my assistant to tell
+the father that God had heard prayer and restored him his child,
+and that we would now like him to join with us and thank God for
+answering our prayers, if he would tell the crowd what we intended
+doing. Although the father was a mullah, and had the reputation of
+being very fanatical in his hatred of Christians, he at once consented
+to our proposition, announcing to the crowd our intention. During
+the short thanksgiving prayer every head was bowed and not a sound
+of protest heard, while Christian and Moslem alike returned thanks
+to the great God who had heard and answered prayer. Medical Missions
+had once again won a triumph over Moslem fanaticism, and the scowls
+and threatening looks which had greeted our arrival were replaced by
+cordial thanks and vehement expressions of gratitude!
+
+Persian therapeutics are very simple, dating back to the time of
+Hippocrates. All diseases are divided into two classes--hot and
+cold--to be treated accordingly with hot or cold remedies. All foods
+are similarly classified. With this knowledge, plus a few Persian
+medical books and an appropriate turban, the native quack sets
+up as a doctor. His impudence and native wit are inexhaustible;
+he will cheer his patients with extracts from Hafiz or Ferdosi
+(the great Persian poets), talk learnedly of vapours, and have a
+specific for every mortal ailment. The quack physician is amusing,
+and probably confines himself to fairly harmless compounds; but the
+Persian surgeon is a man to be avoided at all costs. Of course, I
+am only here speaking of quacks; in Teheran there is a good medical
+school, and many of the graduates from that school proceed to Paris
+or Berlin, and return fully qualified to exercise their profession;
+but they also have to compete with these native quacks.
+
+I remember one case of a poor man brought to the dispensary with
+a big swelling on the left knee, which prevented his straightening
+the leg. Careful examination convinced me that the case was one of
+malignant cancer of the thigh bone, and that nothing could be done
+but amputation. This was explained to the patient and his father, who
+indignantly rejected the proposed operation. I lost sight of the man,
+but some weeks later one of my assistants asked me if I remembered
+the case; on my replying in the affirmative, he informed me that the
+patient had since died. It seems after leaving the dispensary the
+father had taken his son (a young man twenty years old) to a native
+surgeon (who combined the exercise of his profession most appropriately
+with the trade of a butcher) and asked his advice, saying the English
+doctor had advised amputation of the leg; but he had refused, as
+the swelling caused little pain, and all his son wanted was to be
+able to straighten his leg so that he might once again walk. "Oh,"
+replied the butcher, "that's easily done; that English doctor knows
+nothing; I will cure him." So he got the father and other men to hold
+the unfortunate youth firmly and some other helper to seize the leg;
+then seizing a huge slab of stone in both his hands, he brought it
+down with all his force on the bent knee. The leg was straightened
+... and needless to add, the poor patient only survived a few days.
+
+My wife has written quite sufficient about the Persian women to
+enable her readers to appreciate the monotony of their lives behind
+the veil. This is more especially true of the upper classes, who
+have no need to work for their living. In Kerman the usual result
+is that many of these poor women suffer from hysteria. I have often
+been called in to treat some of these patients, and have found them
+develop almost all the varying types of that curious disease; but
+one of the most interesting cases I ever remember occurred in Kerman.
+
+I had been treating the unmarried daughter of one of the wealthiest men
+in the city, and had prescribed for her some simple bismuth mixture,
+as she had complained of indigestion. Two days later her brother
+came galloping his horse to the dispensary, and demanded to see me
+immediately. He was greatly excited, and said that his sister had
+been taking the medicine I had prescribed for her and had suddenly
+gone blind. This was in the early days of the Medical Mission, and
+I was especially anxious to win the confidence of the people, so did
+not at all appreciate this complication. I assured the brother that
+I would return with him at once, and informed him that the medicine
+could not possibly have caused the blindness; but he was not at all
+appeased. Upon reaching the house I found all the family distracted
+with grief, and not at all inclined to be cordial. Moreover, they
+had called in a native eye-doctor, who had gravely announced that
+the blindness was most certainly due to the patient having taken
+the infidel's medicine! In order to reassure the parents I bade them
+bring the bottle of medicine, and, finding there were still two or
+three doses left, called for a glass, poured out the remainder, and
+drank it. This seemed to reassure them partially, so they allowed me
+to examine the girl. She was a nervous, highly-strung patient, and I
+had expected to find that she had been malingering; but to my surprise,
+upon thorough examination I convinced myself that she had really gone
+blind. Examination of the interior of the eyes showed no disease,
+and upon inquiry, finding that she was the subject of periodical
+hysterical attacks, I ventured to predict to the parents that with
+suitable care and supervision the girl would regain her sight. They
+were still inclined to be sceptical, but ten days later I heard that
+my prediction had come true and that she was quite cured. Similar cases
+of hysterical loss of vision are on record, but are exceedingly rare.
+
+Barely had we managed to get the little Medical Mission well started
+when circumstances connected with my wife's health arose that
+forced us to leave at a moment's notice the people we had learnt to
+love. Fortunately the work was not given up; another doctor succeeded
+me, and now there is a flourishing Medical Mission with two hospitals,
+one for men and the other for women patients, with a lady doctor and
+nurse; while the influence exerted by that Mission is felt throughout
+the whole of the great Kerman province, which stretches eastwards
+to the border of Beloochistan, and is bounded on the south by the
+Persian Gulf.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+MEDICAL MISSION WORK IN YEZD [4]
+
+    A hospital--A friendly governor--A suspicious
+    case--Superstition--The opium habit--A case of cataract--We return
+    to England.
+
+
+                   "By medicine life may be prolonged....
+                    With the help of a surgeon he may yet recover."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+The last of our three years' sojourn in Persia was spent in Yezd. Here
+there was already a small Mission Hospital, all the pioneer work having
+been done by Dr. White of the C.M.S. A wealthy Parsee merchant had
+presented the site for a hospital in the form of an old caravanserai
+(an Eastern inn). This had been gutted and made into a nice little
+hospital, with an out-patient department. Dr. White being on furlough,
+the doctor taking his place in Yezd exchanged with me, as it was
+hoped that my wife would be able better to stand the lower altitude
+of Yezd than the heights of Kerman. Yezd is an island city in a sea
+of sand. The waves, driven by the winds, surge against the city walls
+and threaten to engulf the whole place. At some parts of the wall,
+the drifted sand reaches almost to the level of the wall itself.
+
+The Governor of Yezd during the time we lived there was
+H.R.H. Jalal-el-Dowleh, the eldest son of the Prince-Governor of
+Isphahan (the Zil-es-Sultan). The Jalal-el-Dowleh had the reputation,
+like his father, of being a strong man, and ruled with a firm hand. He
+had already proved a good friend to the Mission, and was accustomed
+to pay a state visit once yearly to the hospital, where, after being
+entertained at the doctor's house, he would proceed to make a very
+thorough tour of inspection, and before leaving would hand the English
+doctor a sealed envelope containing the munificent sum of L40 as a
+donation. During our stay in Yezd we saw a good deal of the governor,
+and I had to add to my duties those of court physician.
+
+In Yezd, as in other Persian cities, there are many quacks, who not
+unnaturally resent the presence of a European doctor. I had not been
+long in the city before I made the acquaintance of some of these
+gentry, in a somewhat dramatic manner.
+
+Early one morning I was hurriedly called to the house of the chief
+native doctor, as his brother had been taken seriously ill.
+
+On entering the patient's room, I found it crowded with his friends,
+the patient himself lying upon a mattress placed on the ground. One
+glance at the patient sufficed: he was dead, and had apparently been
+so for some hours. When I announced the fact to the brother, he became
+very angry, and assured me that I was mistaken. He begged me to pour
+some medicine down the man's throat, or to do something to rouse him,
+as he had only fainted!
+
+Upon further inquiry, I found that he had been poorly for some days,
+and his brother had been treating him. My suspicions were aroused, as
+the brother and his friends crowded round me, imploring that English
+medicines should be tried, and after further careful examination only
+served to confirm my first opinion, I refused absolutely to comply with
+their entreaties, and left the house with my assistant. The brother and
+some of his friends pursued us, offering large fees if only we would
+give some medicine, absolutely refusing to accept my verdict. It is a
+necessary custom in Persia and the East generally, to bury a dead body
+within a few hours of death, but we heard that the brother refused to
+allow this corpse to be buried for three whole days, alleging that the
+English doctor was mistaken: however, in the end they were obliged to
+bury him. The native doctor was strongly suspected of having poisoned
+his brother, and this doubtless accounted for the urgent manner in
+which he begged me to pour something down the dead man's throat,
+so that he could accuse me of being responsible for his death.
+
+All Persians are superstitious, and are great believers in goblins
+and 'jinns.' One day a young man was brought to me suffering from
+an acute attack of chorea (St. Vitus' dance). He was well educated,
+and had been employed as a clerk in a merchant's office: now he was
+unable to hold a pen in his hand, and exhibited all the symptoms
+of the disease in a very marked degree. He was promptly admitted to
+hospital, and discharged cured in a few weeks. According to his own
+statement the cause of the attack was as follows. He had gone for a
+walk in the desert outside the city after his day's work was over,
+and had wandered on further than usual. Suddenly he came across an old
+well, and round the well were numbers of hideous dwarf-like goblins
+pelting each other with stones. When they saw him they crowded round
+laughing, jeering, pulling his clothes, and then began to pelt him
+with stones. He turned and fled, running the whole way back to the
+city, and to this shock he attributed the commencement of his symptoms.
+
+In my last chapter I referred to the prevalence of the opium habit in
+Kerman, but we found many addicted to it also in Yezd. So much was
+this the case, that I started admitting some of those who expressed
+a desire to give up the habit into the hospital, submitting them to
+a special treatment, with very good results. It was a curious sight
+to see these patients grouped together in the ward, smoking their
+carefully weighed out amount of opium, which was gradually reduced
+day by day, until they could go without altogether.
+
+The opium habit is in truth a curse, but upon one occasion I really
+believe it greatly helped to save a man's life. It happened in this
+way. A well-known merchant in Yezd was found in his house apparently
+sleeping. His women-folk, unable to rouse him, became alarmed, and sent
+for me. I found the patient unconscious, exhibiting every symptom
+of belladonna poisoning. An excited crowd, as usual, collected,
+watching us as we tried every possible means of saving the poor
+fellow's life. Strychnine and morphia had been injected, cold water
+poured on his face, all without avail: there was no sign of returning
+consciousness. A happy thought struck me. Turning to some of the men
+in the crowd, I asked whether they were opium-smokers. Three or four
+somewhat shamefacedly acknowledged that they did a little, so I ordered
+them to bring a pipe and a little of the drug. Then I made them sit
+round the patient's body, take the pipe in turn, and as they smoked,
+puff out the smoke into the patient's face, occasionally blowing
+it into his nostrils, and down his throat. I confess that I had but
+little hope of any good result, but what was my delight and surprise,
+after about a quarter of an hour's perseverance in the treatment, to
+see unmistakable signs of recovery in the patient's face. His widely
+dilated pupils began to contract, and soon he returned to consciousness
+and was able to sit up. On the following day I found him quite well,
+and thoroughly enjoying the sensation that his marvellous recovery
+had made in the city. Hundreds of people had been to see him, and
+I am a little afraid that the value of the opium as a "cure-all"
+was not diminished by the incident!
+
+We had quite a number of cataract patients in the hospital, many
+coming several days' journey for operation. A small hospital for women
+had been started, and a lady doctor had been sent to take charge. The
+first case admitted was an old lady with cataract. When the day arrived
+for the operation, everything went well at first, but in the middle
+of the operation the patient started up screaming. She said she had
+seen a snake, and she thought it was going to bite her. Her vision
+cost her dearly, the operation necessarily being spoilt, and the eye
+lost, but unfortunately it also kept away other patients suffering
+from the same disease, but only for a short time, the lady doctor
+soon winning their confidence, and finding more work on her hands
+than she could comfortably get through.
+
+After a very happy year in Yezd, my wife's health still remaining
+unsatisfactory, we were obliged to leave Persia, and return to England
+for a short rest. Both of us were grieved at having to leave a country
+and people that we had learnt to love, and amongst whom we had hoped
+to spend our lives.
+
+Medical Missions in Persia have already worked wonders, breaking down
+opposition, winning friends even amongst the most fanatical. Here is
+not the place to speak of results, neither would it be wise to do so,
+but I would like once for all definitely and decisively to repudiate
+the oft-quoted statement, often made, unfortunately, by Christians
+who should be better informed, "that it is impossible for a Mohammedan
+to become a Christian." With God all things are possible!
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+PART II
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE CITY OF NINEVEH
+
+    The city of Nineveh--The fast of Jonah--The bridge of
+    boats--Traditions as to ancient history of Mosul--Alkosh,
+    birthplace of Nahum the prophet--Shurgat--Climate of
+    Mosul--Cultivation and industries--Importance of Mosul.
+
+
+           "A ruin, yet what ruin! from its mass
+            Walls, palaces, half cities have been reared.
+            Heroes have trod this spot--'tis on their dust ye tread."
+
+                                                                  Byron.
+
+              "Nineveh, an exceeding great city of three days' journey."
+
+
+The ancient city of Nineveh, the former capital of the Assyrian Empire,
+is situated on the eastern bank of the river Tigris. Little is to be
+seen to-day of the once famous city but huge mounds of earth which
+cover the site of this historical and interesting place. There are two
+principal mounds, separated from each other by a small rivulet. The
+larger of these is called Kouyunjik, the smaller Nabbi Eunice. The
+former contains the ruins of the palace of Sennacherib, before whom
+Jonah stood and delivered his message; but nothing now remains to
+tell of its former glory and wealth. When we first visited the spot
+over three years ago, there was one huge man-headed lion remaining,
+and a few pieces of sculpture representing fish swimming in water,
+&c. But now even these have disappeared, for about eighteen months ago
+the Turkish Government sold all the visible remains of Nineveh for the
+enormous sum of two Turkish liras (36s.)! the buyer grinding everything
+to powder, including the huge statue, for purposes of building!
+
+Nineveh is best seen to-day at the British Museum or the Louvre, Paris,
+as both of these places contain many interesting and valuable remains
+of that city. Nineveh was closed to excavators about four years ago,
+but it is hoped that investigations will be renewed again in the
+near future, as there still remain thirteen rooms of the palace to
+be examined.
+
+The other and smaller mound, known as Nabbi Eunice (Prophet Jonah),
+was once the site of a church named after the prophet, on account of
+the tradition that he preached upon that spot. The church stands to
+this day, but is used as a mosque, as it now belongs to the Moslems,
+who venerate the place as being the tomb of the prophet.
+
+They accept the whole story of Jonah's mission to Nineveh and
+the adventures he encountered en route, as we have it recorded in
+Holy Scripture. It is an interesting fact, too, that year by year
+the inhabitants of Mosul, Christians and Moslems alike, keep in
+remembrance the three days of fasting and repentance mentioned in
+the Book of Jonah. The fast is still kept for three days, by some
+very strictly, while others keep it from sunset to sunset, only
+eating once a day. Every one may please herself as to the severity
+of her fasting, but almost all join in the remembrance of those three
+memorable days in the history of Nineveh. "Herself" is used advisedly,
+as it is especially kept by women who are seeking some particular gift
+from God, and they will often fast absolutely for the three days,
+not even allowing a drop of water to touch their lips. They hope by
+so doing that God will hear their prayers, even as He answered the
+petitions of the Ninevites of old. The memory of Jonah is perpetuated,
+too, in Mosul by parents naming their boys after the prophet, Eunice
+being quite a favourite name amongst Christians, Moslems, and Jews.
+
+The tomb of Jonah is guarded very zealously by the Mohammedans
+against the Christians, and it is very difficult for the latter to
+gain admission to the interior of the building. A friend staying
+with us in Mosul was very anxious to see the tomb, so we rode over
+to Nabbi Eunice one day, but the mullah in charge politely but firmly
+refused us permission to enter beyond the portal!
+
+Kouyunjik is now a favourite place for picnics from Mosul, and in
+the early spring a day spent amongst the old ruins of Nineveh is
+very delightful. It is too hot in summer, as there is no shade. From
+the top of the mounds we have a beautiful view of Mosul, with the
+Tigris in the foreground and the mountains stretching away on either
+side. It is not considered safe for any one to wander about alone on
+the mounds; the natives will never go there alone after dusk. Some
+years ago two Europeans who were passing through Mosul visited Nineveh
+by themselves. As they were rambling over the old remains, one said
+to his companion, "I am going round there," indicating a projecting
+piece of marble. His companion waited and waited, and as his friend
+did not return went in search of him, but not a sign of him could
+be seen. After seeking in every possible place without success, he
+returned to Mosul to institute a search party, but all efforts proved
+fruitless, and to this day nothing has been discovered as to the fate
+of this man. Whether he fell down some disused shaft or was carried
+off by Arabs is not known, and probably will always remain a mystery.
+
+Mosul is connected with Nineveh by an old bridge of boats, which
+probably existed in the days of Jonah. There are twenty-one or
+twenty-two of these old-fashioned flat-bottomed boats, fastened
+together by heavy chains, a platform of wood being laid from boat
+to boat and the whole covered with earth. This part of the bridge is
+movable, and is connected at one end with the mainland by a permanent
+stone bridge consisting of thirty-three arches. In the spring, when
+the rush of water is very strong consequent upon the snow melting in
+the mountains, it is loosened at one end and allowed to swing with
+the current. Sometimes, however, the river rises suddenly, carrying
+the bridge away and playing havoc with the banks. When this takes
+place it is very difficult to replace the bridge. Often for weeks
+together the bridge is not open, and all traffic across the river has
+to be conveyed by boats, the owner of the ferries reaping a golden
+harvest. The toll of the bridge is taken by a man who rents it from
+the Government. He is said to be one of the richest men in Mosul. Foot
+passengers are allowed to pass freely, but all four-footed beasts have
+a small charge levied on them ranging from a halfpenny to twopence,
+and carriages are charged half a mejideh (1s. 8d.). As some thousands
+of camels, mules, and donkeys are continually passing to and fro,
+it is no wonder that the toll-collector is a rich man.
+
+I am not at all fond of riding across this bridge; it is not very
+wide, and camels jostle you on one side with their huge burdens,
+donkeys and mules vie with each other in trying to pass on the other,
+quite oblivious of the fact that there is no room; while underneath
+the river rushes madly on. Altogether, I always heave a sigh of relief
+when the opposite bank is safely reached.
+
+There are many traditions as to the probable origin of Mosul, but
+its true early history is involved in obscurity. The following has
+been gleaned from some of the many traditions circulated amongst
+its inhabitants.
+
+Mosul is said to have been built some four thousand years ago,
+and was then a small village consisting of a few houses built of
+mud. This village was believed to be the fourth village built after the
+Flood. About four days' journey from Mosul there is a mountain called
+Judy, on which the ark is supposed to have rested after the Flood. The
+natives living near this mountain say it must be Mount Ararat, because
+close by grows the only olive tree for miles around! and also they have
+in their possession enormous wooden nails said to have been used in the
+construction of the ark! These nails were found on the mountain many
+years ago. At the foot of this mountain lies a village which claims to
+have the honour of being the first built after the Flood. Quite near
+by is another small town called Jezirah, which is said to have been
+the second village to spring into existence, while some village in
+Egypt takes the third place, and Mosul the fourth! If these traditions
+are to be trusted, then Mosul has indeed a right to be termed ancient.
+
+Some 1260 years ago Omar el Khattab the Calipha conquered Jerusalem
+and Damascus, and then turned his attention to Mosul. He sent down
+one of his chiefs named Eyath, son of Ghoonum, to besiege Mosul,
+with orders to convert the city to Mohammedanism at all costs, if
+necessary at the point of the sword. Many of the inhabitants at that
+time were Parsees, belonging to the old fire-worshipping religion;
+others were called "Charamika," but no trace of their belief has been
+found. These and many others were converted to Mohammedanism by the
+strong argument of the sword.
+
+In the twelfth century Mosul had a sovereignty of its own, a brother
+of the Sultan of Damascus then reigning over this province. In 1180
+it withstood the armies of the famous Saladin, who was a native
+of a town some five days' ride from Mosul. In the thirteenth and
+fourteenth centuries it suffered defeat from the hands of its
+enemies, and in 1743 Nadir Shah of Persia bombarded the town for
+forty days. Since then Mosul has suffered much from time to time
+through various causes--from the cruelties of some of its governors,
+from a famine caused by the crops being utterly destroyed by locusts,
+and also from the plague which visited it in 1831 and left the town
+almost a desert. It is stated that 100,000 people perished at that
+time from this terrible scourge.
+
+The walls surrounding Mosul are very old. They were built, in the
+first instance, about 2000 years ago by a man named Marvan, one of
+the kings of a tribe called "Umayya." They were repaired 170 years
+ago by Hadji Hussein Pasha, one of the Abdul Jaleel family. They are
+now in many places fast falling into ruin, and are in great need of
+restoration. These walls are pierced by about twelve gates, which
+are shut at sunset or soon after.
+
+About five hours' journey from Mosul is the little village of Elkosh,
+believed by many to have been the birthplace of the prophet Nahum,
+and also the scene of his life-work and burial. This village, now
+inhabited by Chaldeans, is reverenced by Moslems and Christians
+alike, but more especially is it looked upon as a holy place by
+the Jews. There is a synagogue in which is supposed to lie the tomb
+of the prophet; to this the Jews flock for the yearly pilgrimage,
+having done so from time immemorial.
+
+Kalah Shurgat is another interesting place, situated two days' journey
+from Mosul. It consists of an old Assyrian ruin, said to be the remains
+of the ancient city of Asshur. The Germans have been excavating there
+for some years, and are doing it very thoroughly. The whole ground
+floor of the palace and temple are laid bare, and are in a wonderful
+state of preservation. One of the excavators pointed out to us the
+"bathroom" of the palace, running through which was a mono-rail,
+evidently having been constructed for the purpose of conveying water
+from the reservoir to the bath. This tram-line must have been one
+of the first ever invented! It was simply a groove cut in the marble
+floor, on which probably a one-wheeled trolley ran.
+
+The climate of Mosul is a very variable one, the summers being
+excessively hot and the winters cold.
+
+During the hot months all the inhabitants sleep at night on their
+roofs, starting about the 1st of June, and continuing to do so for
+five months, or till the first rains come. Many of the houses are
+provided with "sirdabs" or underground rooms, for use during the
+middle part of the day. The marble from which most of the houses
+are built retains the heat of the sun so long that they do not cool
+down in the evenings; on account of this, as the summer wears on,
+the houses become almost unbearable with accumulated heat. For this
+reason we generally try to go away somewhere for a month's holiday in
+August or September. There are no cool places near Mosul, and to find
+a suitable summer retreat it is necessary to go three or four days'
+journey. For two years we only went to a large house about three miles
+from Mosul, kindly lent us by a patient of my husband's. Here the
+heat was intense during the day, but the evenings were delightfully
+cool as a rule, for the river ran at the foot of the garden.
+
+The winters in Mosul are often very cold. Two years ago the Tigris was
+nearly frozen over, and for three days the only water we could obtain
+was from melted snow. The cold was so severe that men died as they
+sat at their work. While such cold weather lasted it was impossible to
+keep the patients in the hospital, as having no stoves in the wards we
+were not able to warm them sufficiently. But this was a record winter,
+there having been no such frost for one hundred and fifty years.
+
+Spring and autumn are beautiful seasons in Mosul, especially,
+perhaps, the former. During March, April, and part of May the land
+for many miles around Mosul is green with waving corn--a refreshing
+sight for weary eyes. When the grass is about a foot in height, all
+the inhabitants pitch tents outside the town and spend their days
+there. Those who have horses tether them in front of their tents, and
+allow them to eat grass to their hearts' content. A friend lent us a
+tent last year, and for a month or six weeks we enjoyed the luxury of
+green scenery! Every day some of our congregation were able to get out,
+each of us taking our turn at providing afternoon tea. It was such
+a relief to get away from the heat of the city walls, and to enjoy,
+if only for a short time, the lovely fresh air of the corn-fields!
+
+The autumn days are very pleasant too, but as a rule this season is
+only too short. The summers last till the rains begin, and then almost
+at once cold weather sets in. The most trying part of the whole year
+comes towards the end of summer, when the clouds "come up." It is
+very marvellous the way the natives can tell, almost to a day, when to
+expect the first clouds. They generally last from ten to twelve days,
+and the relief is great when they depart. On the whole the climate
+of Mosul seems to be a healthy one. At certain times of the year
+malarial fever is very prevalent, but, "alhamd'llillah!" neither of
+us have ever contracted it.
+
+The highest degree of heat registered in the coolest part of our house
+is 110 deg, but the average heat of the three hottest months is about 98 deg.
+to 105 deg.
+
+Three to four months of this kind of heat is generally quite enough!
+
+The land round Mosul is cultivated to a great extent, corn being
+the chief product. The success of the crops, however, is entirely
+dependent upon the winter and spring rains. Should the rainfall
+be great, the harvest is abundant; but if the season is a dry one,
+then the result is disastrous. Mr. Layard speaks of one such occasion
+when, during the whole of the winter and spring, no rain fell. As a
+consequence of this, the crop failed and famine ravaged the land. This
+famine is still spoken of in Mosul as something never to be forgotten,
+and many events are marked as dating from "the famine." Some are not
+ashamed to own that they made their fortunes during that awful time,
+by storing corn and then selling it at famine prices; while others,
+who had been prosperous merchants till that year, were then rendered
+penniless, and have never been able to retrieve their fortunes. There
+are a few rude wheels constructed along the banks of the Tigris for
+the purpose of irrigation; but as these are highly taxed by the local
+government, they are by no means general. This mode of raising water
+is very simple but expensive, as it requires the labour of several
+men and at least two animals, either oxen or mules.
+
+Gardens near the town are irrigated in this way, either by drawing
+water from the river or from deep wells, but the great stretch of
+land sown with corn is dependent for its nourishment on the rainfall.
+
+Cotton is also grown and exported. Melons, cucumbers, and tomatoes
+are cultivated very largely, and as the river recedes in the summer,
+the moist bed is sown with water-melon seeds, which flourish splendidly
+in the damp soil.
+
+Fruit is largely grown in the mountains, and brought down on
+donkeys. Apricots are very abundant; cherries, plums, peaches are
+less plentiful. The best apples are brought from Damascus; they look
+good, but are flavourless. Grapes are very largely cultivated, and are
+brought to great perfection. The large black kind are very delicious;
+there is also a white grape which has a very sweet flavour. Vegetables
+of all kinds are grown in the gardens near Mosul: beans, peas, spinach,
+carrots (red), beetroot, onions, artichokes, as well as many other
+varieties. Potatoes are brought from Persia, and sometimes suffer
+so much from the long journey that they are only fit to be thrown
+away when they reach Mosul. Last winter several hundreds of sacks
+of potatoes were thrown into the river at Mosul, as they had been
+frostbitten on the journey from Persia, and so were useless.
+
+"Manna" is found in the mountains, and is collected and sent to Mosul,
+where it is made into a sweetmeat called "halawwi."
+
+The industries of Mosul are chiefly spinning and weaving. A very strong
+kind of cotton cloth is woven, also calico and woollen goods. Many
+years ago this industry was much larger than it is at present, and
+in those days Mosul gave its name to muslin, a fabric exported by
+the French from that town in the last century. Weaving is done by
+men, while the women do the spinning and dyeing of the cotton or
+wool. Weaving is a very favourite occupation, as the weaver can do
+just as much or as little as he likes, being paid accordingly. For
+this reason a man who is inclined to be lazy would much rather be a
+weaver than a servant.
+
+Furs are largely exported from Mosul. The skin of the fox is most
+common, but there is another fur much resembling the sable which
+is highly prized amongst the natives, a coat lined with this fur
+costing something like L50. Some years ago furs could be bought
+quite cheaply in Mosul, but the merchants finding a good market for
+their goods in Europe, the prices soon went up, and now even fox is
+becoming expensive.
+
+The industries of Mosul are not what they were, but we trust better
+days are coming, when the old prosperity of the town will be renewed
+and increased.
+
+The three great questions now under consideration with regard to
+the land of Mesopotamia will have great influence on the future
+of Mosul. The first is the navigation of the Tigris from Baghdad to
+Mosul. This, when an accomplished fact, will make a great difference in
+the export and import trade of the city. The Baghdad railway will also
+greatly increase the importance of Mosul, for the line running through
+it will bring the East in close touch with the near West. Perhaps the
+most important subject of all in connection with the future of Mosul
+is that of the irrigation of Mesopotamia, which, once accomplished,
+will turn the whole of that vast desert into a garden. The means to
+be employed for this end are simply the reviving of the old Assyrian
+method of irrigation. This method consisted in the digging of canals
+to intersect the land between the rivers Tigris and Euphrates. Maps
+of these same canals are still to be seen in the British Museum
+and other places, and are of great interest. These great canals,
+made in the prosperous days of the Assyrian Empire, are now choked
+up, after having been in use for many centuries by the inhabitants
+of the country. Layard, in his "Discoveries at Nineveh," says,
+"Herodotus describes the extreme fertility of Assyria and its abundant
+harvests of corn, the seed producing two and three hundred-fold";
+and adds later, "But in his day the Assyrians depended as much upon
+artificial irrigation as upon the winter rains. They were skilful
+in constructing machines for raising water, and their system of
+canals was as remarkable for its ingenuity as for the knowledge of
+hydraulics it displayed." Since the result of irrigation in those
+ancient days was two to three hundred-fold, surely if carried out
+to-day with the additional knowledge of modern science and experience
+the ground would yield an even larger return. It has been estimated
+that L8,000,000 would be sufficient to reopen all the old canals of
+Mesopotamia, with the certainty that the land thus irrigated would
+yield an abundant profit.
+
+"Ensha'allah," this much-talked-of scheme will soon be carried out,
+and Mesopotamia become once more "a land of corn and wine, a land of
+bread and vineyards, a land of olive oil and of honey."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE PEOPLE OF MOSUL
+
+    Population--Moslems--Christians--Chaldeans--Nestorians--Jacobites
+    --Arabs--Kurds--Jews--Yezidees--Recreations--Warfare of the
+    slingers--Hammam Ali--The recreation ground of Mosul men and women.
+
+
+                                    "... The world is great,
+                    But each has but his own land in the world."
+
+                                                        A. C. Swinburne.
+
+
+The population of Mosul has been estimated to be anything between
+sixty and eighty thousand people. If the whole "vilayet" is included
+the number will be something like a million and a half. These people
+are made up of many different nationalities and tribes, each retaining
+its own leading characteristics, whilst many have a language peculiar
+to themselves.
+
+The inhabitants of Mosul are chiefly Arabs, of whom by far the larger
+part are Mohammedans. These of course form the strong religious element
+in the city, as they are the conquerors of the land. This is a fact,
+too, which they take care never to lose sight of. In the market, the
+mosque, and the street, the Mohammedan is always proclaiming by look,
+word, and deed that he is the master. A Christian finds himself at
+a great disadvantage in the market, for when buying from a Moslem he
+is not allowed to handle the food, and must purchase his goods to a
+great extent on trust.
+
+In all mosques, which once were Christian churches, it is customary
+for the mullah to preach with a naked sword in his hand. This is
+done in order to remind the people that the Mohammedan religion was
+propagated by the sword, and must, if necessary, be retained by the
+same means. In the streets the difference is very marked between the
+two, the Mohammedan behaving as if the whole place belonged to him,
+while the Christians, and more especially the Jews, always appear as
+if they were apologising for their very existence.
+
+The Moslems are the rulers, and they make their power felt. An amusing
+instance illustrating this feeling occurred a short time ago. A little
+Moslem boy was walking through the street on his way to our house when,
+apparently without any provocation, a Christian girl began to revile
+him as he passed. The boy instantly turned on the girl and gave her a
+thrashing. I did not hear anything of this for some days, and then only
+in an indirect way. Some one told me that the boy had received a severe
+beating from the master of the school which he was attending, and on
+asking the reason of the punishment was told the foregoing story. I
+am very fond of the boy, he is such a dear, bright little chap, with
+great wondering eyes. Upon hearing the history of his encounter with
+the girl, I sent for the boy, and tried to tell him how wrong it was
+for a man to strike a woman. "But," said the boy, quite innocently,
+"she was a Christian!" Thus early in life is instilled into the young
+mind of the Moslem his inherent right to act the tyrant.
+
+On the other hand, it is a strange truth that Moslems very often prefer
+to have Christian servants in their houses, as they find they are more
+faithful. In many hareems the "slaves," or girls who have been bought
+for life, are very often children of Christian parents, who have been
+willing for a few pounds to sell their girls. The reverse of this is
+also true, that Christian families often find that a Moslem servant
+is more trustworthy than one of their own religion. A few months
+ago I heard of a little black boy in Mosul, whose mother, a Moslem
+negress, was anxious to find him a home. We offered to take the boy and
+bring him up, but the mother absolutely refused our offer, as we were
+Christians, and she was afraid her boy might become the same, as he was
+then only one year old, and had not yet learnt to hate the Christians!
+
+There are some 15,000 to 20,000 Christians in Mosul, who are said
+to date their conversion back to the time of St. Adday, who was a
+disciple of St. Thomas; others migrated from Baghdad to Mosul at
+the time of the Caliphas. These Christians have remained firm to the
+religion of their forefathers in spite of much persecution and many
+trials. To-day in Mosul there are many different sects of Christians
+to be found, viz. the Chaldean, Syrian, Nestorian, Jacobite, Armenian,
+and Greek. The Chaldeans in Mosul now entirely belong to the Romish
+Church, having been admitted to that body about a hundred years ago by
+means of the Dominican Mission who started work amongst these ancient
+Christians. They have their own bishop and archbishop, the Patriarch
+making Mosul his headquarters since 1256.
+
+The Nestorians are the true Chaldeans, and repudiate the name
+Nestorian. They live amongst the mountains, have resisted all
+efforts of the Romish Church, and remain true to the faith of
+their fathers. They, in common with the other Christians, date
+their Christianity from the time of the Apostles as the converts
+of St. Thomas. They refuse to accept Nestorius, the Patriarch
+of Constantinople, as their founder, saying that he was a Greek,
+while they were Syrians. They assert that "he did not even know our
+language, and so how could he have propagated his doctrines among
+us?" and they also declare that their religion was an established
+fact long before Nestorius was born. They have their own Patriarch,
+who resides near Van, a distance of ten days from Mosul. They regard
+the Pope and his followers with feelings of great hatred, and are said
+to curse him and his forefathers regularly every day. In answer to a
+message from the Pope urging reconciliation with Rome, the Patriarch
+sent the following answer: "I shall never become a Roman Catholic,
+and should you ever induce my people to do so, I would sooner become a
+dervish or a mullah than degrade myself by an alliance with the Pope."
+
+The Patriarch of the Nestorians is not allowed to marry; he is also
+compelled to be a strict vegetarian. When it is thought advisable
+to nominate a successor to the archbishopric, the wife of a near
+relative (if possible, a brother) of the then Patriarch is chosen
+as the possible mother of the future dignitary. She is set apart as
+holy till the birth of her child, her diet meanwhile being strictly
+vegetarian. If the child proves to be a boy, he is solemnly dedicated
+to God from his birth, and is never allowed to touch meat or flesh
+of any kind. Should the child unfortunately be a girl, the choice
+has to be made again, and great is the disappointment of the mother,
+the honour of being the mother of a Patriarch being much coveted
+and prized.
+
+In 1843 these people suffered a terrible massacre at the hands of
+the Kurds; 10,000 of them are said to have perished, and after being
+hunted from place to place the Patriarch finally fled for refuge to
+the English Consulate at Mosul.
+
+The Jacobite section of the Christian Church in Mosul is a small one,
+and so far remains firm to its old faith, resisting all attempts by the
+Church of Rome to effect a union. It, too, has its own bishop in Mosul,
+but the Patriarch resides in Mardin, where he has many thousands of
+adherents. He pays periodical visits to his scattered flock in Mosul
+and the surrounding country. They trace the origin of their name to one
+Jacob Baradaeus, a Reformer who arose in the sixth century, and refusing
+to follow the lead of the other Syrians in joining the Romish Church,
+continued in the old faith, which has since been called by his name
+(an alternative name being the Old Syrian Church).
+
+The population of Mosul also consists of Arabs, Kurds, Yezidees,
+and Jews.
+
+The Arabs are the original inhabitants of the desert, who date their
+descent back to the time of Shem, the son of Noah. They are divided
+into many tribes, of which the most important in Mesopotamia is that
+of the great Shammar clan, who are to be found in all parts. There
+are three classes of Arabs, namely, those who have settled down in
+one place and become town Arabs, such as the inhabitants of Mosul:
+the wandering tribes of the desert or Bedouins, who live in tents
+and whose occupation is sheep farming: a third class of Arabs are
+the robbers of the desert, who subsist solely by plunder, and roam
+the desert seeking for a livelihood by any means that may come to
+their hand. The wandering tribes find it very hard to settle down
+to a fixed abode after the free life of the desert, and they prefer
+often to suffer pain and inconvenience rather than spend a few days
+or weeks beneath a roof and within the walls of a hospital.
+
+A story is told of a Bedouin lady of the seventh century, whose husband
+rose afterwards to be one of the Caliphs. When taken to Damascus to
+live in luxury and state, she pined for the freedom of the desert,
+and gave utterance to her loneliness in the following verses:--
+
+
+           "A tent with rustling breezes cool
+              Delights me more than palace high,
+            And more the cloak of simple wool
+              Than robes in which I learned to sigh.
+
+            The crust I ate beside my tent
+              Was more than this fine bread to me;
+            The wind's voice where the hill-path went
+              Was more than tambourine can be." [5]
+
+
+Arab women have come to the hospital from time to time, but they
+always long to return to their desert life, and are impatient at the
+restraints of town life.
+
+The Kurds are a warlike people inhabiting the mountains round
+Mosul. They are the descendants of the wild people of the mountains
+mentioned by Xenophon as the Karduchi, who so severely harassed the
+Greeks during their retreat. In later years they were known as the
+Parthians, who opposed the Romans. From this people came the celebrated
+Saladin, the opponent of Richard Coeur de Lion in the crusading
+days. The Kurds have been compared to the old Scottish Highlanders, who
+were noted for their devotion to their chiefs. A well-known writer,
+in speaking of this trait in the character of these people, says
+that once he heard the following story: "A chieftain having died,
+one of his followers, who was standing on the roof of his house
+when the news of his master's death was brought to him, exclaimed,
+'What! is the Beg dead? Then I will not live another moment,' and
+immediately threw himself from the roof and was dashed to pieces."
+
+A few of these Kurds are Nestorians, but the majority of them are
+Moslems, and are a very fierce-looking set of people. They carry
+as a rule large daggers in the waistband, and are quite capable of
+using them when necessary. We once had a servant who was a Kurd,
+and although as a rule a peaceable man, he often longed to be off
+when he heard of any fighting going on in his country. He used to
+boast to the other servants of the many people he had robbed and
+murdered! but said of course he would never harm us, as we were in
+the place of father and mother to him. We are quite hoping to secure
+his services again on our return to Mosul.
+
+There are about two thousand Jews in Mosul, who date their descent
+from the time of the Captivity. When Cyrus issued his decree allowing
+all Jews to return to their native land, about fifty thousand of
+those living in Mesopotamia joyfully availed themselves of this
+permission, but a few preferred to remain in their adopted land, and
+their descendants are there to this day. In spite of much persecution,
+they have remained firm in their belief. Mohammed quite hoped at first
+that the Jews would easily be converted to Mohammedanism. He therefore
+instructed all his followers to turn their faces towards the temple
+at Jerusalem when praying, but before many months he saw that his
+hopes in this direction were doomed to disappointment. He therefore
+withdrew his former instructions, and ordained that in future all
+Mohammedans should turn to the Ka'aba at Mecca when engaged in prayer.
+
+The Jews in Mosul are looked down upon and despised by Christian and
+Moslem alike. In the dispensary it is sad to see with what loathing
+the Jews are treated. The scornful way in which the word "Yahudi"
+(Jew) is hurled at these people is enough to make one's heart ache for
+them. If there is anything degrading to be done, a Jew is the only
+one to be found willing to do it. The Jews are the shoe-blacks of
+Mosul. It being considered very degrading to clean boots and shoes,
+the Jew undertakes this task, receiving payment at the rate of about
+1/4d. a pair.
+
+It is a wonderful sight to see all these different
+nationalities--Moslems, Christians, Jews, Kurds, Arabs, Devil
+Worshippers--all sitting down together in the waiting-room of the
+dispensary while waiting their turn to see the doctor.
+
+It reminds one of the picture of Peace, in which the artist depicts
+the lion, the leopard, and the wolf living in harmony with the lamb. I
+am afraid the resemblance is only superficial, for in the hearts of
+that rude miscellaneous throng there is little of peace, and much of
+anger, wrath, jealousy, hatred, and murder.
+
+The dwellers in the desert and mountain would scorn the idea of
+passing the time in recreations of any kind, but the town gentlemen
+much enjoy a little relaxation from their arduous (?) labours. Riding
+and racing are much in vogue in Mosul. Just outside one of the gates
+is a long, level stretch of land, uncultivated, which is used by the
+sporting part of the population for racing. Betting is not a part of
+the programme. Any one who possesses a horse is at liberty to enter
+it for the races; and every Thursday afternoon a large conclave of
+people may be seen watching the performance with great interest. Horse
+dealers who have horses for sale race their animals with the hope
+that they will carry off the palm, in which case the value of the
+horse is considerably raised.
+
+A few of the Mosul men go in for hunting, but it is not a favourite
+pastime. My husband sometimes goes with some of the Begs, who are fond
+of hawking.  The boys much enjoy slinging, and some of them are quite
+experts at it, at times their aim being rather too accurate. The
+spring is the season for slinging, and hundreds of boys may be
+seen outside the town on a fine day armed with these instruments of
+torture. They line up along the walls of the city, and take aim at
+every passer-by. This is somewhat disconcerting, especially when some
+little boy takes a shot at your horse's head or tail, a game of which
+the animal does not at all approve. Or sometimes the boys form armies,
+each opposing side being composed of an equal number of slingers. They
+stand at a distance of about fifty yards apart and commence warfare
+in real earnest. It is rather a terrible ordeal to have to run the
+gauntlet of these two opposing armies. The stones seem to whizz round
+one's head in a most alarming manner; but although my mare has received
+a few stray shots of which she much disapproved, yet I have fortunately
+never actually been hit. Occasionally boys become so vicious in their
+excitement that the Government here has to put a stop to their "wars"
+for a time, as they do so much injury to one another.
+
+A form of recreation which is indulged in by all the Mosul people is
+that of paying a yearly visit to a hot sulphur spring. This spring
+is situated about twelve miles from Mosul on the Baghdad road, and
+is called Hammam Ali.
+
+A small village has grown up around the spring, but cannot furnish
+anything like the accommodation needed for the thousands of visitors
+who flock there in the early summer. To meet this need, small booths
+are built of dried grass, each family renting one for the time of their
+visit. Two years ago it was estimated that ten thousand people from
+Mosul were there at one time, all congregated together without any
+proper accommodation, or any sanitary arrangements; the consequence
+was that disease and sickness were very prevalent amongst them,
+and many went seeking health, and found death.
+
+Last year a similar number were as usual gathered at Hammam Ali,
+when one evening a lighted match was carelessly thrown down, with
+the result that in a few minutes many of these booths were a mass of
+flames. Several children were burnt to death and two women.
+
+The next day the exodus from the place was universal. We were staying
+then at a house midway between Mosul and Hammam Ali, and watched the
+procession of people returning, a steady stream from morning till
+night. After a day or two, however, the sad episode was forgotten,
+and visitors began to flock back again.
+
+We once saw this celebrated place. It was on our way to Mosul, and we
+arrived late one night at Hammam Ali, minus our tent. The villagers
+kindly offered us the use of the Hammam (bath) for the night, so
+we made a tour of inspection, but decided to decline their offer
+with thanks.
+
+The place was damp, dirty, and malodorous. We preferred to pass the
+night in a stable, which looked a trifle more inviting, although
+full of rat-holes. In the morning I paid a visit to the Hammam, as
+it was a ladies' bathing day, and found the bath crowded with women
+and children, packed in like sardines in a box! The water was very
+hot, and I wondered the women could stand so long in it. Some of them
+looked rather as if they had been boiled. Here were women and children,
+apparently healthy, bathing in the same water as others suffering
+from all manner of skin diseases and other horrible things. However,
+they all looked perfectly happy and contented; and I would not grudge
+these poor creatures any little pleasure which might help to brighten
+their lives.
+
+We shall see in the following chapters how little brightness they
+possess, and, on the other hand, how much of sadness and sorrow.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE RIVER TIGRIS
+
+    The river Tigris--Ancient historical interest--Garden of Eden--
+    Origin of name unknown--Swiftness--Sources--Navigation--Keleqs
+    --Bathing, fishing, washing--Crossing rivers.
+
+
+                                    "The softly lapsing river,
+                                    It whispers in its flow,
+                                    Of dear days gone for ever,
+                                    Those days of long ago."
+
+                                                          P. B. Marston.
+
+
+The river Tigris, on the banks of which Mosul is situated, is a
+noble stream. Though inferior in length to its sister the Euphrates,
+yet it is no mean rival, either in antiquity or historical fame. They
+share together the distinction of having on their banks the romantic
+spot reputed to be the Paradise of Adam and Eve. The Garden of Eden is
+situated, according to the tradition of the country, near the junction
+of the Euphrates and Tigris. When we passed that way on our journey
+from Busrah to Baghdad, the land was flooded by the spring rains,
+so we saw nothing of the beauties of Paradise.
+
+The Tigris can also claim, in common with the Euphrates, an interesting
+connection with some of the ancient kingdoms of the world, extending
+back to early post-diluvian times. Near by, the Assyrian Empire
+built its towns of splendour and strength. Daniel records visions
+seen upon its banks, Cyrus is said to have marched his troops
+along its shores, Alexander overthrew the armies of the Medes and
+Persians near its basin, while in the plain of Nineveh the dynasty
+of the Ommiade caliphs was destroyed and supplanted by that of the
+Abassides. The origin of its name is unknown, but it is thought that
+the swiftly-flowing character of the river gave rise to its name. Hence
+the old Scriptural name Hiddekel, signifying "swift or quick." Owing
+to its wealth of fertilising power, it is sometimes called by the
+Arabs "Nahar-as-Salam," the River of Peace. At all times the Tigris
+is a swift river, but the velocity with which it travels differs
+according to the season of the year, the swiftest time of all being
+in the spring, when the snows from all the surrounding mountains melt
+and rush down to the river, causing it often to overflow its banks,
+and increasing its impetuosity to a great extent. At this time it is
+possible to travel on the river from Mosul to Baghdad in forty-eight
+hours, while in the late summer or autumn it takes at least ten or
+twelve days. When flowing at its fastest rate, the Tigris is said to
+be swifter than the Danube. The course of the river is a very winding
+one, extending for about 1040 miles. Its breadth varies very much. At
+Mosul it is a little less than 400 feet, at Baghdad about 600, while
+in one place where another river flows into it, the width amounts to
+over 1000 feet.
+
+The sources of the Tigris are at an altitude about 5000 feet above
+sea-level, but the greater part of its fall is accomplished at
+its commencement, by the time it reaches Mosul the elevation above
+sea-level is only 353 feet, the remainder of its course, a distance
+of about 650 miles, being made by easy descent.
+
+With a very little trouble the river could easily be made navigable
+as far up as Mosul, the chief hindrance to this being obstructions in
+the river which could be removed by dynamite or other explosives. A
+day's journey from Mosul by water there is a large dam stretching
+right across the river, believed to have been built by Darius with the
+intent to prevent Alexander from penetrating his dominions by means
+of the river. When the Tigris is full this is not an insurmountable
+barrier even as it exists now. During the summer and autumn the water
+is very shallow, and steamers would find it difficult to reach Mosul,
+but a little engineering could render the river navigable at all
+seasons. Once or twice steamers have reached Mosul, thereby causing
+great excitement amongst the natives. For the last thirty years it has
+been the talk of Mosul that "steamers are coming," but they have not
+yet started. We heard a year ago that two steamers had been chartered
+for plying between Mosul and Baghdad, and were only awaiting a firman
+from the Sultan, but so far nothing has been seen of them.
+
+Pending the inauguration of steamers, the natives still continue
+to use the same method of river transport as existed in the days of
+Abraham and Jonah. This consists of a raft-like construction, and is
+employed for both passenger and goods traffic. It is composed of a
+number of sheep or goat skins inflated and fastened close together,
+upon which cross-bars of wood are laid and bound firmly in place. The
+skins are examined daily and when necessary reinflated; great care
+must be taken to keep them moist, for if they become dry they are
+liable to burst. The raft is manned by one or two natives, whose
+only work is to guide the "keleq," as the raft is called, to keep
+it in the middle of the stream, away from all dangerous rocks and
+shoals. For this purpose a rough kind of oar is used, made from the
+branch of a tree, with palm branches at the end forming the blade. The
+keleq floats down the river with the current, the passengers amusing
+themselves with singing and reciting stories.
+
+When a European travels, a little hut is built for his convenience. A
+light framework of lath is run up, just large enough to hold a
+travelling bedstead and chair; this is covered with felt or water-proof
+sheeting and placed upon the raft. On arrival at Baghdad the whole is
+sold for about half its original price. The owner of the keleq sells
+the planks of wood forming the floor of the raft, packs up carefully
+his skins, and returns by land to Mosul, as the current is too strong
+to allow of his return the same way as he came. He is then ready to
+be hired for another journey. In good weather a journey on a raft
+is a very pleasant mode of travelling. It has many advantages over
+caravaning by land. There is no need of the early morning or midnight
+scramble preparatory to the start. The owner simply ties up after
+sunset, and as soon as dawn appears he quietly slips the rope, and
+off the raft glides, while the passenger is still sweetly slumbering,
+unconscious of any movement.
+
+In summer, however, the river is the happy hunting-ground of flies
+and mosquitoes, the result being that rest and sleep are impossible
+either by day or night. In a storm, too, the keleq is not a very secure
+place of refuge. An English lady travelling from Mosul to Baghdad
+was once caught in a hurricane and her keleq blown about in such a
+way that she expected every minute to find herself precipitated into
+the river, while her little hut and all its contents were saturated
+through and through with water.
+
+A raft is a good target for the Arabs whose villages lie along the
+banks of the river. An Englishman once placed his bicycle, which he
+was taking home, on the top of his hut, thinking to keep it out of
+harm's way. The Arabs, seeing this extraordinary-looking machine,
+at once came to the conclusion that it was a Maxim gun or some such
+deadly weapon. They immediately opened fire, and continued shooting
+till the raft was out of sight--fortunately with no serious result.
+
+The French Consul at Mosul was also attacked by Arabs when travelling
+on a keleq. For seven hours they kept up an active fusilade, both
+parties making good use of their guns.
+
+The merchants of Mosul use these rafts for exporting their goods to
+Baghdad and other places. After the harvest enormous keleqs may daily
+be seen leaving Mosul, loaded heavily with wheat and corn. All goods
+for the south are exported in this way. For these large commercial
+rafts, about three to four hundred skins are used, while others contain
+from fifty to two hundred, according to the size of raft and number of
+passengers. A European travelling alone would need about one hundred
+and fifty to two hundred skins to make a fairly comfortable raft.
+
+Natives often use a single inflated skin for travelling down the
+river, sometimes even going as far as Baghdad on one. This latter
+feat a man has been known to accomplish in twenty-four hours. It is
+by no means as easy as it looks, to balance yourself on a skin; when
+bathing we have often tried, but found it very difficult. The Arabs
+use these skins as ferry-boats when the river is unfordable. They
+take off their garments and tie them round their head as a turban,
+so that when they reach the opposite side their clothes are quite dry.
+
+In a village near Mosul I have seen women crossing the river in this
+way, many of them carrying a child on her back in addition to a large
+bundle of clothes which she has been washing in the river. The Arabs,
+both men, women, and children, are quite at home in the river--swimming
+as easily as ducks, and playing all manner of games in the water; it is
+quite interesting to watch them from a distance. The women do not take
+off their long loose garment, but just hold the skirt of it in their
+teeth if it impedes their swimming. Last summer we were staying for a
+time at a castle quite near the river, about an hour's ride from Mosul;
+while there we bathed almost every day, a small wood running to the
+edge of the water acting as a convenient dressing-place. The owner of
+the castle gave notice to all the villagers that the wood was "hareem"
+each afternoon, so we were always quite private. I engaged the services
+of an Arab woman to teach me to swim whenever my husband could not be
+there. She could swim like a fish herself, but had no idea of teaching
+any one else; however, before our holidays were over I had mastered
+the art. She would make me put one hand on her shoulder and then
+call out: "Now, kick"--that was the sum total of her instructions,
+"kick"! The river is considered very dangerous for bathing unless
+you know it well. Shortly before we were there last year, an Arab
+woman had been drowned. She was a good swimmer, and was swimming
+in deep water, when suddenly she called out that she was drowning,
+and before any one could go to her rescue she sank, and was quickly
+carried down the stream by the current; when the body was recovered
+life was quite extinct. For a few days the women were too frightened
+to bathe in that place, thinking that death was due to something in
+the water; but when we arrived a fortnight later they had apparently
+quite recovered from their fright, and were bathing as usual.
+
+Another day we were watching the men playing in the water, when
+suddenly a black object appeared in the distance floating down the
+stream; it looked like the head of a baby. As it approached the place
+where the men were bathing, one of our servants swam out to see what
+it was, and found to his horror it was the body of a man. He brought
+it to the bank, and every one rushed to view the corpse. Then came
+the question as to who would bury it; no one was willing to do this,
+although the body was that of an Arab, and all the onlookers were
+also Arab villagers. We offered backsheesh to any one who would dig
+the grave, but no one volunteered, and suggested pushing the body out
+into the current again to be carried to Baghdad, as the easiest way
+of settling the matter. Finally a mullah passed by, and seeing the
+body, ordered some men to bury it at once. We were very thankful, as
+we could not bear to think of the poor body floating down the stream,
+or being left exposed on the banks of the river.
+
+We watched some men dig a very shallow grave, and the body was laid
+to rest, the mullah reciting some Moslem prayers ere it was covered
+with earth and stones.
+
+As one sees such scenes as this taking place, it is not pleasant to
+think that this same river forms our sole water supply for drinking and
+all domestic purposes! If we take a walk down the river to the place
+where the water-carriers fetch the water, we shall have all the more
+reason thoroughly to enjoy our water! There hundreds of women are to
+be seen washing their clothes, men and boys enjoying a swim, horses,
+mules, and donkeys revelling in the mud; while not at all unlikely a
+few dead dogs or cats may be seen floating around! All congregate in
+this favourite spot. This being the case, it is not surprising that
+often our water resembles mud much more than water when brought to the
+house. Needless to say, all our drinking-water is filtered and boiled
+before using. The water is brought from the river in skins on the back
+of donkeys or mules, at the rate of 3s. 4d. a hundred skins. It seems
+so absurd to be paying in this way for water when, with a comparatively
+speaking small outlay, it could easily be conveyed to each house by
+means of pipes from the river running close by. This has been done
+by an energetic Vali in Damascus, and the result is enviable.
+
+The Tigris cannot be said to contain a great or varied supply of fish,
+but there are two or three kinds to be found, which help to vary the
+housekeeping monotony of everlasting mutton and chicken. A very large
+fish called "bis" is the best kind, as the meat is tender and mild,
+while the bones are few; the others seem to be all bones, and are
+hardly worth eating, besides being absolutely flavourless.
+
+Fishing is carried on from the bridge by the fish-sellers. A line is
+generally used, baited with melon or pieces of flesh. Sometimes poison
+is thrown into the river in order to kill the fish, which then float on
+the top of the water and are easily caught. In the summer it is very
+risky buying fish in the bazaar, as it so soon becomes stale; so if I
+want to be quite sure of having fresh fish, I send a servant down to
+the bridge to see a fish caught and then bring it home. As a matter of
+fact, I fancy he does not at all like sitting in the sun waiting, so
+often beguiles the time by sitting in the coffee-house situated on the
+banks of the river; and then, having allowed an hour or two to elapse,
+returns empty-handed, saying: "There are no fish in the river to-day."
+
+Rivers without bridges are a great trial of patience when journeying;
+it takes such a long time to transport everything, and the crossing
+generally takes place at the end of a stage when every one is tired,
+and--shall I confess it?--often cross too. The waiting in the
+burning sun while the boats are fetched, the weary bargaining, and
+all the usual trials of patience become exaggerated out of their
+due proportions when you know that just across the water is the
+resting-place for the night--so near and yet so far! And as you sit on
+the wrong side of the river waiting, waiting, it is difficult to feel
+restful and at peace with all men. I long often to be able to do as the
+animals do, i.e. swim over. A small charge is made for the transport
+of each animal, so the muleteer often prefers to swim over himself,
+taking his animals with him. There is as a rule only one ferry-boat,
+so that you have to take your turn; and as each passage takes about
+an hour, a great deal of patience is often needed.
+
+The ferry-boat is a large flat-bottomed, antediluvian-looking
+construction, and you wonder how ever it can bear the weight of
+all that is put upon it. When a carriage is to be transported the
+horses are first unharnessed, then the vehicle is lifted bodily on
+to the boat, with all its contents, the passengers and horses finding
+standing-room as best they can.
+
+When you get to the other side your troubles are not over, for on
+starting to put up the tent you find one of the poles has been left
+behind on the other side; so there is nothing to do but to sit still
+and continue the waiting process. Or perhaps you think a cup of tea
+would help while away the time, only to find that the charcoal has
+not yet arrived! So there is only one thing to do, and that is to
+wait till everything is safely landed; then you can begin to prepare
+for the long-delayed rest.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE CHILDREN OF MOSUL
+
+    Spoiling process--Despair of the parents--The "god" of the
+    hareem--Death by burning--Festivities at birth of boy--Cradles
+    and cradle songs--School life--Feast in honour of a boy having
+    read the Koran through--"Only a girl"--Girl life--Girl victims
+    of Naseeb--Marriage.
+
+
+    "The household must weep for forty days on the birth of a girl."
+
+                                                         Arabic Proverb.
+
+
+                   "Is it all forgot? All schooldays' friendship,
+                    Childhood's innocence?"
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+                         "Where children are not, heaven is not."
+
+                                                           A. Swinburne.
+
+
+The children of Mosul have on the whole a very good time. From their
+earliest days they are allowed to do pretty much as they like, and
+only when the process of spoiling is completed, and the child has
+become a terror to all, do the parents realise that it is far easier
+to spoil a child than to "unspoil" him, once the deed is done. This
+method, or rather lack of method, of bringing up the children, is a
+great cause of trouble and sorrow in after years both to the parents
+and to the children themselves, but yet they never seem to profit by
+their experiences, for they still continue to say that it is a great
+"aib" or shame to deny a child anything he may want. Although this
+spoiling process is carried on with both boys and girls in the earlier
+years of their lives, it is brought to perfection in their treatment
+of the boys.
+
+I remember a pretty little child called Jamila (beautiful); she
+was so fair and pretty that she was known by many as "the English
+child." When she was about three years old she became very ill, and
+the mother brought her to my husband, who prescribed for her, but said
+that the chief part of the treatment lay in the diet. On no account
+was solid food to be given for at least three or four days. The mother
+looked in despair when she heard this, as she said, "Jamila will cry
+if she cannot have her meat and bread and pillau!" A day or two later
+I was calling at the house, and saw that Jamila was looking very ill,
+and asked the mother what the child had been eating. "Oh," she said,
+"poor little child, I had to give her meat and bread, for she tore her
+hair and clothes in her anger, on my refusing to give them to her,
+and so, how could I deny them to her?" And sure enough, while I was
+there, Jamila began to cry for bread, and on her mother refusing, threw
+herself on the ground in a paroxysm of anger, beating her head and
+face with her clenched fist, till she was quite blue and black in the
+face. The mother ran at once and brought bread and meat, and gave to
+the child, who immediately recovered her equanimity of mind and temper.
+
+Then again, I have seen a room full of people all in despair over
+a child of perhaps two or three years old, who refuses to drink his
+medicine ordered by the doctor. The father begins the performance by
+solemnly taking the glass containing the medicine up to the child, and
+saying to him, "Oh, my beloved, will you take this medicine?" "No,"
+says the child, and pushes it away. The father looks round on the
+audience for signs of wonder and astonishment at the marvellous
+doings of the child. Then perhaps the uncle has a try, and meets
+with like success; then the mother, the aunts, and a few friends
+all beseech the child to take the medicine, saying, "For my sake,
+for the sake of your father, your mother, &c., take this," but,
+of course, all are unsuccessful, and they all shake their heads and
+say, "I told you so, he will not take it," and it being a "khatiya"
+(sin) to force a child to do anything against his will, the child,
+of course, gains the victory in this as in everything else. If you
+suggest pouring the medicine down the child's throat by force, the
+parents and friends will put you down as being a monster of cruelty.
+
+If there happens to be only one boy in the hareem, he becomes
+almost like a little god to all the women folk. A small friend of
+mine was in this position, and although a very jolly little boy,
+was fast becoming unbearable in his actions towards his grandmother,
+mother, and aunts. He was only about eight years old, but one day
+he was calling on me with his aunt, whom I loved very much, when,
+without the smallest provocation, he suddenly took up a stick and
+gave his aunt two or three hard cuts across her shoulders with it,
+and then ran laughing out of the room. I did not say anything to the
+boy, but presently my husband came in to lunch, and I asked him to
+give the boy a beating, and told him what he had done. So we went to
+hunt for the boy, and found him hiding behind his grandmother, who
+besought us not to touch the darling boy. My husband gave the boy a
+very slight whipping, and told him if ever he did such a thing again,
+he would give him something to remember! The boy was so astonished
+at being chastised, that to this day he has been a changed boy,
+and much more bearable in his home life.
+
+Another instance of the way the boys are spoilt. A woman and her
+daughter, a little girl of about eight years, were sitting in their
+verandah one day behind a pile of cotton which had just been "fluffed"
+by the man whose work it is to fluff cotton. The son of the woman,
+a boy of seven, thought it would be great fun to set a light to this
+cotton, which he promptly did by throwing a lighted match into the
+midst of it, with the result that his mother and sister were burnt
+to death. I called at the house some days after, and found the boy
+who had done this deed quite a hero in the eyes of the women folk,
+and far from being blamed and punished, on the contrary they were
+fondling and caressing him more than ever. I told them I thought the
+boy was so pleased with all the attention he was receiving, that very
+likely he would do the same thing again if he had the opportunity.
+
+Let me give you a short sketch of a child's life, in order that you
+may see for yourself something of their everyday life.
+
+As we are talking of Eastern children, we must begin with the boy,
+as he is so much more important a personage than a mere girl.
+
+A boy's birth is celebrated by great rejoicings and feastings, and if
+the family is a well-to-do one, at least two sheep will be slain and
+cooked and given to the poor. Our next-door neighbours were rejoicing
+over the birth of a boy a short time ago, and they thought it necessary
+to sacrifice three sheep, and for two days the poor were coming with
+their little dishes and pots to carry away portions of the meat. I
+went to see this ceremony, and it was very interesting. Apparently
+no questions were asked, the only recommendations necessary being
+poverty and need. Also hundreds of loaves of bread were given away at
+this time. If we go to the hareem to admire and pay our homage to the
+little king, we must be careful not to praise him too much, or, if
+we do, we must qualify our praise by saying "Mash'allah," which will
+counteract any evil influence. We shall find the baby boy swathed up
+tightly in his swaddling clothes, his eyebrows and eyelids pencilled
+with native cosmetics, and very likely a beauty spot on his forehead;
+his little head will be covered with a little silk cap, over which a
+handkerchief will be wrapped, and on the cap will be seen some coins
+and blue beads, to avert the dreaded evil eye. We shall find him very
+probably strapped tightly into a cradle made of brightly-painted wood;
+the baby is laid on the top of the little mattress, which is level with
+the sides of the cradle, and then strapped down. As he grows out of his
+first cradle he will be given another and larger one, and much more
+comfortable, in which he need not be strapped, as the sides are high
+enough to prevent his falling out; a cord is attached to the cradle,
+so that his mother can swing him gently while she sits and spins or
+does anything she has to do. It is very quaint to listen to their
+monotonous chant as they rock the cradle, and very often they sing
+to the swing of the cradle, "Allah ho, Allah hi, Allah ho, Allah hi,"
+"He is God, He is living, He is God, He is living."
+
+The first time of shaving a boy's head is looked upon as a very
+important day, and the barber must be careful to leave a little tuft
+of hair on the top of the head, by which he can be pulled up into
+heaven, otherwise he might get left behind.
+
+When the boy is about five, he will probably be sent to school. He
+is then dressed as a miniature man, in white knickerbockers, shirt,
+coloured vest, and silk or cloth "zeboon," a loose garment reaching
+to the ankles; on his head, of course, will be the inevitable red fez,
+adorned with charms to bring him good luck and keep off evil. Arrived
+at the school, our little friend will seat himself on the ground, and
+his education will begin by learning the A b t (alef, bey, tey), the
+A, B, C, of the Arabic language. After he has mastered the alphabet,
+and can write a few words, then the Koran will be started, and the boy
+will be kept hard at this, each day learning a short portion till a
+chapter is known perfectly by heart. All the boys in the school may
+be reciting different portions of the Koran at the same time, and
+in a sing-song tone, so that, as you pass up and down the streets,
+it is easy to recognise these seats of learning for the young. I
+have often peeped into some of these schools, and watched the boys,
+all seated on the ground, swaying themselves backwards and forwards,
+repeating the Koran in a loud, monotonous voice. When a boy has been
+through the Koran once, a great feast is made in his honour. He is
+decked out in grand new garments, generally of silk and embroidery,
+and men dancers are engaged for a day or more, according to the means
+of the parents.
+
+The son of a friend of mine in Mosul had just completed this part
+of his education, and his mother sent word to know if the dancers
+might come and dance before us in our compound. We thought this
+might be rather trying, as they would probably have stayed all day,
+so I sent a message thanking her for the honour, but saying I would
+prefer to come to her house to see the "tamash" (sight), as I only
+had a limited time to give to it. So at the time appointed I went,
+accompanied by a woman servant and a man, as I thought there would
+probably be a great commotion. On arriving at the door of the house,
+it seemed hopeless even to think of getting in, as the courtyard
+was full of men, dancing, shouting, yelling, whirling and slashing
+naked swords and daggers. The court was a very small one, and my first
+thought was to turn and fly, but the hostess was a very dear friend of
+mine, and I did not like to disappoint her, so I sent the man-servant
+in front to open a passage in the crowd and followed hard after him,
+and felt very thankful when we reached a room safely. The women were
+gathered there looking out of the windows at the fun. But this did
+not seem to please the dancers, for they called repeatedly for the
+"khatoun" (lady) to come and watch them, and some even followed me
+into the room, thereby throwing the women into a state of panic and
+fright. The men were so wildly excited that they hardly knew what they
+were doing. Stripped to the waist, they flourished their swords and
+yelled, then jumped high into the air, then crouched on the ground
+and again leapt into the air, all the time pointing the daggers or
+swords either at their own hearts or some one else's. To add to the
+general excitement, other men were beating drums and playing on a
+weird kind of stringed instrument. After receiving their "backsheesh"
+they departed, for which I was not sorry. The boy in whose honour
+all this is taking place is very happy and delighted, and thinks
+now he is a man, and so, as he is leaving his childhood behind him,
+we too will leave him and pass on to the much less important subject
+(from an Eastern standpoint) of the childhood of a girl.
+
+"Only a girl"--"Only a girl." These are the words which generally
+follow the announcement of the birth of a girl. Poor little mite,
+her entrance into the world is not a cause of great joy or rejoicing,
+and from her earliest days, I think, this lies as a shadow upon her;
+for to my mind there is a sadness and pathos about the little girls
+quite different to the masterful looks and ways of the boys, the
+lords of creation. As it is a part of the Moslem's creed to bow in
+submission to the will of God, so the parents now, as always, say,
+"It is God's will" ("Al Allah"), and bow their heads in submission
+to this new yoke put upon them. Of course there are exceptions,
+and some love their little daughters very much, but taken as a rule,
+girls are not welcome--certainly not more than one. If the parents of
+the girl baby are well-to-do, perhaps they may sacrifice one sheep,
+but the feastings and almsgiving are done in a much quieter way and
+with as little ostentation as possible; and if you visit the mother
+it is not necessary to say very much about the new arrival as it is
+"only a girl," and it is not well to make the poor mother feel too sad.
+
+So the little girl starts her life, with not too much love and
+attention. If she happens to be well and strong she will thrive apace
+in spite of all, but if she is at all inclined to be weak or delicate,
+the chances are that she will be neglected until it is too late for
+human aid, and then perhaps, as a conscience salve, she will be taken
+to the doctor by the mother or some other relative. How many of these
+little victims have been brought when too late to my husband I should
+not like to say. Directly the doctor sees a child suffering from some
+terribly neglected disease he at once says, "A girl, of course! If
+the child had been a boy you would have brought him long ago." And so,
+alas, it is true of many cases. It is a convenient way of getting rid
+of some of a too numerous family of girls, and then the mothers and
+relations will piously clasp their hands and say, "It is the will of
+God." The will of God, indeed! This so-called submission to the will of
+God, or "kismet" or "naseeb," as the Turk and Arab call it, is often
+responsible for a great deal of neglect by mothers of their little
+girls. For instance, there was such a nice-looking young widow who
+used to come and see me. She had two children, both girls, the elder
+about five years of age, and the younger nearly three. This younger
+child was a perfectly beautiful child--just like a lovely wax doll;
+indeed, so much did she resemble a doll that she was often called
+"l'abbi," which means a doll. Her sweet little face had a complexion
+which any English mother might have been proud of, and her large
+brown eyes were full of life and fun, while her dear little golden
+curls falling over her forehead and forming a halo round her head
+gave her an appearance of a little cherub. I found out very soon
+that this child had the beginnings of a terrible disease in her,
+which, if attended to at once, might be cured, but which neglected
+would mean certain and sure death. I spoke to the mother about it,
+and implored her to bring the child to the hospital for treatment;
+but no, she would not listen; she simply shrugged her shoulders and
+said, "Naseeb, al Allah. If the child is to die, she will die; if it
+is written she is to live, she will live," and nothing I could say
+would induce her either to bring the child or to let us have her to
+take care of; and I heard afterwards from a neighbour that the mother
+wanted the little girlie to die, so that she might be free to marry
+again, as no man would take a wife who already was burdened with two
+girls. Instances of this kind might be multiplied by the hundred,
+showing how girl life is neglected, under the blasphemous idea that
+it is "naseeb."
+
+As a rule it is not considered at all necessary to send a Moslem
+girl to school, but quite lately the Turkish authorities have opened
+some schools for girls in Mosul, and have sent women teachers from
+Constantinople, so this is a step in the right direction. I visited
+one of these schools, and was very much struck by the happier looks
+of the girls compared with the faces of the same girls in their own
+homes. They are taught to read and write and, of course, to recite
+the Koran. Also, we were shown some very pretty pieces of silk
+embroidery which the girls had just finished, and really some were
+quite artistic and pretty. These schools are free, the teachers being
+paid by Government, and, therefore, girls of all classes sit side by
+side. The pasha's daughter and the daughter of the pasha's slave may
+both attend the same school and mix quite freely and happily together.
+
+For the first seven or eight years of a girl's life she may go
+unveiled and run about pretty freely with only a silk scarf on her
+head, but when she reaches the age of nine or thereabout a great
+change takes place in her life. She is prohibited from going out,
+except occasionally with the mother or other relations, and then she
+must be closely veiled. Poor children, I do so often pity them--they
+so soon leave their childhood behind them and become women before they
+come to girlhood. Of course the great aim and object of parents is
+to marry the girls as soon as possible to the man who can offer the
+highest price for her; but the subject of weddings is so extensive
+that we must leave it for another chapter. Only I will say here that I
+think the reason girls are looked upon more or less as a nuisance is
+because they cost so much to get married; for if a father has three
+or four girls to marry, he needs to be a rich man. From the time the
+girl is four or five years old he begins loading her with gold and
+jewellery, so that by the day she comes to be of a marriageable age
+she shall have a good supply to offer to her would-be husband.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE MOSLEM WOMEN OF MOSUL
+
+    Beauty behind the veil--Types of beauty--My dear old friend of 110
+    years of age--Aids to beauty described--Pretty children--Beauty
+    tainted with sin--Imprisonment of women--Peeps into some
+    hareems--Warm receptions--A visit from the ladies of a select
+    hareem--Love the magic key to open hearts.
+
+
+    "Women are worthless creatures, and soil men's reputations."
+
+                                                         Arabic Proverb.
+
+
+    "As I told you always, her beauty and her brain go not together."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+It has often been said that there is very little beauty to be seen
+behind the veil in Turkish Arabia. I certainly do not agree with
+this statement, for I have seen some very beautiful faces amongst the
+Mohammedan women of Mosul. There is beauty, too, to suit all tastes:
+the winsome blonde, with her pale blue eyes and fair hair; the striking
+brunette, peeping from behind her veil with laughing brown eyes,
+which at times are as full of pathos as those of a faithful collie
+which has lost its master.
+
+I think the chief attraction of Eastern women lies in their eyes. One
+face comes to my mind as I write. It is not a pretty face in the
+ordinary sense of the word, but the eyes are wonderful, revealing
+a soul full of sadness, a longing for something not attainable: eyes
+that might make you weep as you feel them fixed upon you in unspeakable
+yearning for love. Another type of face is the bright, vivacious one,
+seen chiefly amongst young unmarried women--marriage in the East
+generally having the effect of taking all brightness out of a face or
+a life. There is also many a sweet face to be seen in Mosul. Perhaps
+these could not be called beautiful except for the sweetness. One
+such I can see now as my memory takes me back a few months. A dear
+face is pressed close to mine, and with pleading blue eyes and such
+a sweet, expressive mouth which utters words such as these: "Khatoun,
+I cannot go--I cannot leave you. Will you let me live always with you?"
+
+If only you knew the history of this woman, you would wonder that
+her face could bear such a sweet look, or, indeed, how she managed
+to endure life at all.
+
+Beauty of the East is all too fleeting as a rule, a woman of thirty
+years of age being quite passee. Nevertheless, there are some very
+fine-looking old ladies in Mosul. One dear friend of mine is proud of
+the fact that she has reached the grand age of 110! Her face still
+retains some of its former beauty. Her daughter is a young woman of
+nearly ninety, her grand-daughter can boast of seventy years, while
+as to her great-grandchildren, they are countless!
+
+This old lady came one day to the dispensary for medicine, as she
+wished to be "made strong" enough to take a journey consisting of six
+hours' riding to a hot-water spring outside Mosul, a place to which
+she had been in the habit of going regularly for the last 100 years
+or so! She was also quite distressed because her skin was rough,
+and asked the doctor to give her some medicine to make it smooth
+again. Even at 110 she was capable of thinking of and longing for
+a renewal of her lost beauty. Aids to beauty are much sought after
+by the ladies of Mosul, as they do not at all approve of becoming
+"old." It is quite a rare sight to see a white-haired woman. The
+moment grey hairs commence to appear they have recourse to henna, a
+dye much in request by Easterns of both sexes. Freckles are a cause
+of much sorrow of heart to Mosul ladies. One girl, who was really
+very pretty, was brought constantly to the dispensary by her mother,
+who implored my husband to eradicate the freckles with which her
+daughter's face was covered, as, if they were not removed, she might
+never get a proposal of marriage. However, a man was forthcoming who
+apparently did not object to freckles, for shortly before leaving
+Mosul I received an invitation to this girl's wedding-feast.
+
+There are some very pretty children in Mosul, some dark, others
+fair, with blue eyes and curly hair. However, this latter style of
+beauty is not as a rule admired. Mothers have a great horror lest
+their children should have curly hair. If a child possesses it, the
+women try by all means in their power to straighten out the curls,
+sometimes even coming to ask for medicine for this purpose.
+
+Very often, however, the children lose a great deal of their
+beauty when five or six years old. Perhaps it is because their
+souls at that age become tainted with knowledge of evil, and this
+knowledge is reflected on their faces. It is heartrending to see
+pretty little children listening open-mouthed to some horrible tale
+of sin and wickedness told by a member of the hareem. It is true
+there is beauty behind the veil, but, alas! it is beauty tainted
+with the blackness of sin. How can lives be beautiful when the souls
+within are dead?--as dead as sin and sorrow can make them. Boys and
+girls grow up amidst surroundings which soon soil their souls; the
+"innocency of childhood," so dear to the hearts of English parents,
+is unknown in a Moslem hareem.
+
+Many and many a time have I interrupted a conversation consisting
+of things which should not be spoken of, by pointing out to the
+women some boys or girls sitting near by, listening with evident
+delight to their unclean talk. Sometimes they would desist, but as a
+rule would only laugh, saying: "What does it matter? They know all
+about it!" Oh! the pity and horror of it--young lives spoilt and
+contaminated almost before their feet have started on the difficult
+and perilous walk through life. Is it any wonder that these children
+grow up with diseased minds and deadened souls? Then they in their
+turn become the parents of another generation, to whom they teach
+the same soul-destroying creeds.
+
+There is no hope for the children of Mohammedan lands until the
+mothers have learnt a little of the meaning of pure life and
+conversation. There is no hope for the women while the men are
+what they are. The whole system is one of degradation and vice. When
+Mohammed, acting under what he declared to be a revelation from Allah,
+introduced the use of the veil, he swept away for ever all hope of
+happiness for Moslem women. By means of the veil he immured them for
+ever in a living grave. "Imprisoned for life" is the verdict written
+against each Moslem woman as she leaves childhood behind her. Before
+the days of Mohammed the Arabs were in the habit of burying alive
+yearly a certain number of new-born girls; surely the fate of these
+innocents was better than that of the millions of women to-day who
+are buried alive behind the veil. "Ensha' Allah" (God willing), in
+the near future the same Power which raised British women to hold
+the position they now do will also penetrate through the prison bars
+of the hareems of Mohammedan lands and set free the prisoners. An
+enlightened Mohammedan gentleman once said: "The only hope for our
+women is Christianity." God grant that their "only hope" may not be
+denied them.
+
+How often I have said to these women, "Alhamd-'llillah (thank God),
+I am not a Moslem woman!" and the heartfelt answer has always been,
+"Yes, indeed, you may thank God; but it is naseeb" (fate). The longer
+I live amongst Moslem women the more my heart yearns with love and
+pity for them, and the more thankful I am that their lot is not mine.
+
+Let us now peep into some of the many hareems of Mosul. There are some
+into which I should blush with shame to take my readers, on account
+of the conversations we might hear; but we will choose some where,
+in all probability, we shall see and hear nothing objectionable.
+
+Our first visit shall be to a near neighbour of ours. The house
+is a large one, the owner holding a high social position in the
+town. As we enter the outside gates we see a large reception-room,
+in which the master of the house is sitting holding court. We must
+not look that way, as we are in native costume; so, pulling our
+veils a little closer, we hurry on till we reach the door of the
+hareem. This is always kept locked; upon knocking, it is opened by
+a native girl or woman, who immediately kisses our hands or dress,
+then ushers us into the presence of the khatoun. In this case the
+head lady of the hareem has been a widow for some years, and is still
+wearing her black mourning dress. She rises from her place amongst the
+cushions on the floor as we enter and salaams low, bidding us welcome
+to her house, at the same time indicating our seats by her side. We
+arrange ourselves as comfortably as possible, sitting cross-legged in
+true Arab fashion. By-and-by the daughter-in-law comes in--a frail,
+delicate-looking woman, and with her a little girl, her only child. She
+is sad because she has no boy, and is afraid her husband will divorce
+her on this account.
+
+Since leaving Mosul I have heard that her fears on this point were
+not groundless, for her husband has since divorced her and taken
+another wife in her place. The usual coffee is handed round by one
+of the many women servants, and our hostess is very much surprised
+that we will not join her in smoking a cigarette. Sometimes there
+are a dozen or so women living in the same hareem, wives of brothers,
+and it is often difficult to know who is who. The relationships are
+sometimes most perplexing. Even to this day there are houses which I
+visit frequently, but have not yet mastered the intricate "connections"
+of the various members of the hareem.
+
+Here is another hareem, quite different from the last one we
+visited. My special friends in this house are two young girls who
+are not yet married. They are such dear, bright girls, and as I
+enter throw their arms round my neck and bid me welcome in a most
+demonstrative way. If I am expected I always find a meal ready,
+and if my visit is unannounced, a woman is always despatched to
+the nearest "sook" (market) to buy an impromptu meal. They are
+poor people, and I always beg them not to do this, but they never
+listen to my entreaties. The meal consists sometimes of "kabobs,"
+i.e. meat minced and pressed round iron skewers and grilled over
+a charcoal fire; this is placed on a plate and garnished with
+sliced raw onions and bitter herbs. Another time a sheep had been
+killed, and our meal consisted of the "interiors," dished in a
+most tempting manner. Sometimes salads form the principal dish;
+but whatever the meal consists of, it is always served with love,
+and is consequently thoroughly appreciated. This house seems always
+to be full of women, all more or less related. If I get mixed up,
+as I sometimes do, in the relationship of those present, and show my
+ignorance of their names, they are quite hurt, and exclaim: "What,
+you have forgotten me?" "Was I not in the hospital for a week?" or,
+"Did I not bring So-and-so to see you?" If they have seen me once,
+they are quite surprised if I cannot remember all about them, and
+often I have to resort to stratagem to find out their names without
+exposing my forgetfulness. While we sit and talk the girls are all
+busily engaged in crotcheting caps. These are sold in the sook at
+about six-pence a dozen, cotton included. In certain "mahullahs"
+(quarters) of the town you will see all the women doing this work;
+in another part of the town they are all occupied with knitting socks,
+in another cigarette-making is the fashion. Each mahullah seems to have
+its own style of work for the women, to which it adheres more or less.
+
+In one house where I visit, a basin of delicious "lebban" is always
+set before me. We all sit on the floor round a diminutive table about
+five inches high, and each one being provided with a wooden spoon dips
+out the lebban from the central dish. This lebban makes a delicious
+food in the hot weather. It is made something after the same manner
+as "junket," only lebban is more tart and acid. Eaten with grated
+cucumbers, it makes a very refreshing salad. Fortunately for me,
+I can eat and, as a rule, thoroughly enjoy native food. In fact,
+I often prefer it to our own, for almost all attempts at European
+cookery by native cooks are decided failures. My husband, on the
+other hand, cannot indulge in this respect, the excessive fat used
+being too much for his digestive powers.
+
+But to return to our ladies. Not only do I visit in the hareems of the
+towns, but the hareems very often pay me a visit at our house. The
+poorer class of women come very freely, and they know that they are
+always welcome. We have a room specially set apart for women visitors,
+so that they may feel quite safe from any men servants who might
+happen to be about. The higher-class ladies do not come so frequently,
+the idea being that the more strictly they keep to their own hareem,
+the more select and important will they become in the eyes of the
+people. There is one family in Mosul who boast that their hareem have
+never visited any other house. So strictly have the ladies been kept
+in seclusion, that they were not even allowed to go to the "hammam"
+(bath) till quite lately. Now, however, they are allowed the luxury of
+once a month walking a hundred yards or so to the nearest bath. After
+becoming acquainted with the ladies of this hareem I was very anxious
+to obtain permission for them to come and visit me. They did not at
+all hold out any hope that their lords and masters would allow such
+an unheard-of proceeding. One day, however, my husband told the head
+of the house that I was very anxious for the ladies of his hareem
+to come and see me. To the great surprise of all he acquiesced, only
+stipulating that the visit should be kept as secret as possible. The
+ladies were very excited, and for days beforehand were talking about
+the proposed visit and making preparations for it. On the day fixed
+the way had to be cleared of all menkind. The doctor was banished
+from the house for the whole afternoon, the men servants were given
+a holiday, and all doors through which a stray man might happen to
+wander were carefully bolted and barred.
+
+At the hour appointed a woman servant arrived to know if all was
+ready. When she had satisfied herself that no men were visible, nor
+could become so unexpectedly, she returned to fetch the ladies. They
+arrived in all the glory of black silk chuddars, which Judy (our
+woman servant) carefully removed and folded up. The two older ladies
+were quite simply dressed in print or muslin, but the young wife
+was decked out in one of her many bridal costumes, and looked very
+charming. She was then only about sixteen years of age, but was the
+mother of two pretty children, a girl and a boy. They were all so
+delighted to be allowed out for the first time in their lives. We
+began by eating cucumbers and water-melons, followed by tea, coffee,
+and English biscuits and cakes. These latter they much appreciated,
+asking permission to carry away some for other members of the hareem to
+taste. After refreshments had been partaken of they were very anxious
+to see all over the house. As we went from room to room it was so
+funny to hear their remarks. The bedroom seemed to take their fancy
+most of all, as they could not see why we needed a room specially
+for sleeping in.
+
+They were very charmed with our little harmonium, and listened with
+great delight while I played and sang to them some of our old English
+hymns translated into Arabic. One of the ladies trying to play could
+not understand why it would not "speak" for her, and upon my moving
+the pedals was overjoyed to find that she could "make music." Their
+delight at everything was just like that of little children on finding
+a new toy. Their visit lasted about three hours, and they went away
+promising to come again soon. This hareem is a most exceptionally
+happy one. There is only one wife in it, the two elder ladies being
+sisters-in-law to the bride, and unmarried. They all seem to live
+together in peace and happiness. Unfortunately, this is only the
+exception, which always goes to prove the rule, that hareems are not
+the abode of peace. How can there be peace when the heart is full
+of jealousy and hatred? One such case comes to my mind. There are
+two brothers living in one house, one of them being married. After
+some years of married life had passed and they remained childless,
+he took another wife, and the first one was thrown into misery and
+despair. Shortly after this we were awakened one night by hearing
+most fearful shrieks and yells coming from this house. The following
+day we heard that the two wives had been quarrelling and fighting,
+as usual, till at last the husband took the first wife and turned her
+forcibly out of doors. Fortunately, her mother's house was near by,
+to which she went, and where she remains to this day.
+
+It has been said, and unfortunately too often truly said, that love
+has no part in the life of a Moslem woman; and yet it is also true
+that they are, as a rule, a most loving and lovable set of people. It
+is because they have so little love and kindness in their own lives
+that, when it does come to them, their hearts are ready to overflow
+in response.
+
+Perhaps the Arab women are slow to give their love and trust, but when
+once given it is sure and lasting. Often these women have said to me,
+"Why do you love us, Khatoun?" They cannot understand that any one
+should care for them. Such an idea is outside the range of their
+experience altogether. One of the first sentences I learnt in the
+Arabic language was, "Ana ahubkum" (I love you all), and this is
+one of the most useful and necessary phrases to be learnt. Love is
+the magic key which opens a way to the hearts of the Moslem women,
+and which brings forth much fruit in return. It is sad to think that
+these women, who are endowed with such great possibilities of loving,
+should be condemned to live their lives, aye, and die too, without one
+spark of love to brighten and cheer them through the weary years of
+their lives. Sad, too, that their favoured sisters of England should
+be content that these things should remain so. Who is to tell them of
+love if we do not? They know nothing of the God of Love, who looks
+in pity and compassion on their stricken lives. They only know of a
+God who is inexorably hard and unfeeling, who holds the destiny of
+each life in His hand, and against whom it is no use repining, for
+"What is written is written."
+
+Mohammed says in the Koran, "The noblest of you in the sight of God
+is he who most doth fear Him."
+
+Truly has it been said that the God of the Mohammedans is an Oriental
+despot.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+MOSLEM FAMILY LIFE
+
+    No home life--Women down-trodden--Evils of divorce--Naseeb--The
+    will of God--Truth and falsehood--Honesty prevalent--A thief
+    caught--Swearing and anti-swearing--Fighting, hair-tearing,
+    and biting--Hammams, the Ladies' Club.
+
+
+                        "The heart of a woman is given to folly."
+
+                                                         Arabic Proverb.
+
+
+                        "May Allah never bless womankind."
+
+                                           Quotation from Moslem Author.
+
+
+                    "The Very God! think, Abib, dost thou think?
+                    So, the All-Great, were the All-Loving too--
+                    So, through the Thunder comes a human voice
+                    Saying, 'Oh, heart I made, a heart beats here!
+                    Face, my hands fashioned, see it in myself!
+                    Thou hast no power nor mayst conceive of mine,
+                    But love I gave Thee, with Myself to love,
+                    And Thou must love me, who have died for thee.'"
+
+                                                            R. Browning.
+
+
+There is no "home life," such as we understand the term, in Mosul. The
+word "beit" (house) is the only one in the Arabic language used for
+describing a home. It would indeed be mockery to call such by the
+sacred name so dear to the hearts of English people.
+
+In a book lately published in Cairo the author, a well-known and
+clever Moslem writer, says: "Man is the absolute master and woman
+the slave. She is the object of his sensual pleasures, a toy as it
+were with which he plays whenever and however he pleases. Knowledge
+is his, ignorance is hers. The firmament and the light are his,
+darkness and the dungeon are hers. His is to command, hers is blindly
+to obey. His is everything that is, and she is an insignificant part of
+that everything." This being the sentiment of every Moslem man, is it
+any wonder that there is no happiness or mutual regard in the family
+life? The men look upon the women, and treat them, as little better
+than brutes; then when they become so, turn and revile them. They
+keep their heels firmly planted on women's necks and then dare them
+to rise. A man may be as vile as he likes himself, but the moment he
+suspects one of his hareem of misconduct there is nothing but death,
+or mutilation which is worse than death, for the offender.
+
+A woman once came to the hospital who always insisted on keeping
+her face entirely covered with the exception of the eyes; I soon
+found that the reason of this was because her nose and lips were
+missing. These members had been cut off in a rage by an infuriated
+son-in-law, who declared that this woman had intrigued with his wife
+in allowing another man to enter the hareem in his absence. This is
+a husband's ordinary method of wreaking revenge on any of his women
+folk whom he suspects of being false to him. This, or death.
+
+The facility with which a man is able to divorce his wife is a great
+source of trouble to the women. They never feel secure in the hearts
+of their husbands, knowing that at any moment he may tire of them
+and send them adrift.
+
+When a woman is divorced she returns as a rule to her mother's house;
+but should she have no relation at hand to whom she can appeal for
+protection, her condition is deplorably sad.
+
+A man may divorce his wife in a fit of anger and receive her back the
+next day if he so desire; this may occur twice, but if he pronounces
+the fatal words "I divorce thee" three times the divorced wife may
+not be taken back till she has been married to another man for a time
+and he also has divorced her; then her former husband may marry her
+again if he wishes. This is one of the good (?) laws of Mohammed the
+Prophet, and needs no comment.
+
+When a woman is divorced the husband can claim the children if he
+desires; if not, the wife is allowed to retain them. Should she marry
+again the poor children are often left to look after themselves as best
+they can. As a rule the new husband does not wish to bear the expense
+of the children belonging to his wife's former husband. If, however,
+he should consent, and the two families are brought up together, the
+result is generally not conducive to peace of mind. One of our servants
+in Mosul had a little boy five years of age; having divorced the boy's
+mother, he looked about for another wife, and finally selected one
+who had already been divorced and was the mother of a boy four years
+old. The two boys now live together, and are a fruitful source of
+friction between husband and wife. A short time ago the mother came
+to our compound early in the morning looking dishevelled and angry,
+saying that her husband had turned her out of the house at midnight,
+refusing to admit her again. On inquiring into the matter we found
+that the root of the quarrel lay in the fact that the man was jealous
+of his wife's treatment of her own boy, declaring that he had only
+married her to look after his boy. He divorced her; but acting on
+our suggestion forgave, and reinstated her in his hareem.
+
+A short time ago a woman came to me in great distress with her tale of
+sorrow. I had known her for some months, and loved her very much. She
+was the mother of two fine boys and a girl. When the girl was about
+eighteen months old the mother became very ill. The doctor attended
+her for some days, but finally gave up all hope of her recovery. As
+a last resource, however, some stringent means were used which,
+with God's blessing, proved successful, and the woman began to
+recover. So near death had she been, that the neighbours came to the
+house inquiring what time the funeral would take place! The husband, a
+"mullah" (priest), never came near her the whole time of her illness,
+and the first news the poor woman heard on her recovery was that he
+intended taking another wife, doubtless thinking that, after such a
+severe illness, she would not be of much use to him for some long time.
+
+As soon as she could walk she came to tell me her trouble, and to ask
+me what I should advise her to do. I told her that, if I were in her
+place, I should leave the man altogether. This, she said, she could
+not do, as it would mean separation from her children. Finally, she
+concluded that there was nothing else to do but to go back to her
+husband and submit to his will. This she did, and I saw her there
+before we left; but such a different face greeted me to the sweet
+one of old. Misery, discontent, and anger were depicted there instead
+of content and happiness. Up to the time of her illness she had been
+in the habit of frequently coming to see me: now her husband forbade
+her to do so any more. The week before we left, however, she turned
+up again with a bad abscess on her leg, for which she gave continual
+praise to God, saying repeatedly, "Alhamd'llillah. God sent me this
+bad leg in order that I may come to you"--her husband not objecting
+to her coming to the hospital to be treated, but only when she came
+to the house without any apparent reason.
+
+A Moslem woman has very little hope of gaining Paradise. Old
+pictures by Mohammedan artists always represent hell as being full
+of women. Their hope of gaining Paradise rests a great deal on the
+will of their husbands. Some holy men say, "I don't want my wives
+in heaven. I prefer those provided by God for all good Moslems from
+amongst the angels." Yet, if you question the women about their hope
+for the future life, they all fervently express the belief that,
+eventually, they will have a place in Paradise afforded them.
+
+Poor, blind, misguided Moslem women of Mosul and other Mohammedan
+lands! How my heart aches for them! Will no one heed the cry of anguish
+and despair which goes up from their midst? As we think of their lives
+our cry can only be, "How long, O Lord, how long will these things be?"
+
+Women are great believers in the doctrine of Naseeb or fatalism. To
+everything that comes to them they bow their heads in submission and
+say, "Naseeb" (fate).
+
+This doctrine often leads to great neglect of children and invalids,
+the women excusing themselves by saying, "Maktoob" (It is written). It
+often rouses our indignation to hear this oft-quoted word misapplied
+as an excuse for wrongdoing or selfish desires.
+
+For instance, parents will enter into negotiations for the marriage
+of their daughter with a man known to be an evil liver; then,
+when the girl is suffering, maybe, for their sins, say piously,
+"Naseeb--Min Allah" (from God). "Min Allah" indeed! "Min Shaitan"
+(from Satan) would be more correct!
+
+Then, again, it is somewhat annoying to be told it is "the will of God"
+that your horse should develop a cough, because the groom neglected
+to cover him when standing in the rain; or, when your best china
+tea-set is smashed, you would rather not be told it is "Naseeb"!
+
+Albeit this is an annoying doctrine to the European at times, yet it
+certainly helps the Eastern woman to bear her troubles and trials,
+and it is good for her to have this at command, for she has nothing
+else to aid her. To sorrow, loss, bereavement, and all the ills that
+human nature is subject to, the Moslem answers always "Naseeb," or,
+"It is the will of God." Should their children die, or the locusts
+destroy the crop, it is "Naseeb." Is the weather hot or cold, dry or
+moist, the remark is always the same, "Naseeb." If the river water
+is filthy and they choose to drink it, thus contracting typhoid or
+one of the hundred other ills consequent on drinking such water,
+they have only to assure themselves that it is "Naseeb," and there
+remains nothing more to be said or done. It is easier to say "Naseeb"
+than to take the trouble to filter or boil the water for drinking.
+
+In a thousand ways this belief in fatalism is convenient to the lazy
+or careless ones, a help to the over-burdened and weary, who know
+no other succour or helper in time of need or sorrow, while it is,
+in some cases, a blasphemous libel on God, blaming Him for what is
+really a sin wilfully indulged in.
+
+As in Persia, so in Mosul, truth plays little part in the characters
+of some of the people. They have not yet learnt to value God's gift
+as expressed by the poet Browning--
+
+
+        "God's gift was that man should conceive of Truth
+                          And yearn to gain it."
+
+
+It is strange how even the most enlightened find it difficult to speak
+the truth always, and correspondingly easy to tell an untruth. A
+boy was once found out in a fault (quite a trivial one), but, when
+questioned, he absolutely denied all knowledge of it, until he was
+confronted by one who had been an eye-witness of the whole scene. Then
+only did he confess, adding, "I said with my lips I did not do it,
+but in my heart I confessed." What can be said to people whose mind is
+capable of evolving such ideas? We often had to complain of dishonesty
+amongst the hospital women servants, especially of the cook for petty
+thefts, such as eating the patients' food, thus causing them to go
+on short commons, unless I was there to see that each one had his
+or her proper quantity. One day I was crossing the compound before
+superintending the distribution of the evening meal to the in-patients,
+when, as I approached the kitchen, I distinctly saw the cook helping
+herself most liberally to the food out of the pot. On remonstrating
+with her, she indignantly denied that she had ever tasted a morsel,
+until I made her open her mouth and reveal to the amused onlookers
+proof positive of her lies. Even then she was not ashamed, but only
+laughed at the idea of the "khatoun" finding her out.
+
+A woman will bring a child to the dispensary and swear that it is her
+child, all the time knowing that the real mother is waiting outside,
+too ashamed to be seen coming to the poor people's dispensary,
+but not wishing to pay the usual doctor's fee. Or some lady from a
+high-class hareem will dress in her servant's clothes and come to
+the dispensary, posing as a poor woman who cannot afford a piastre
+(2d.) for her medicine!
+
+You get so tired of always hearing lies that you begin to feel it is
+no use to question people at all. I do not wish to imply that there is
+no truth to be found in Mosul; but it certainly is a rare and, when
+found, precious virtue. It is a sad fact, too, that the natives do
+not trust or believe each other, knowing that, given the opportunity,
+a brother will cheat a brother or a son his father. Every one is
+suspicious of his neighbour. On the whole the people are honest,
+at least with the exception of the many trifling pilferings always
+to be expected amongst the servants.
+
+Some of them are rather fond of "eating money" entrusted to their
+care. We had two or three servants who were good at this. They would
+come to me every day with their accounts, receive payment for same,
+but instead of handing over the money to the shopkeeper would calmly
+appropriate it for themselves, till one day the baker or butcher leaves
+a message at the door politely asking to be paid for past favours. Then
+the culprit is sent for, and acknowledges having "eaten the money."
+
+Another servant once tried to steal some dolls from a box lately
+received from England for distribution amongst the in-patients of
+the hospital. He had helped me unpack the box and carry the contents
+to the storeroom, pending the arrival of Christmas Day. A few days
+after I was passing this room, and hearing a rustling inside looked
+to see what it was, but seeing the door still locked thought I must
+have imagined the noise. But just as I was passing on the rustling
+became more distinct, and I went nearer to examine more closely the
+door, and found that, while the lock was still intact, the door had
+been lifted bodily off its hinges and then carefully replaced!
+
+Calling my husband, we entered the room and found a poor frightened
+man trying to hide himself under the pile of paper and sacking which
+had been removed from the box. He was absolutely shaking with fear,
+thinking that he would be bastinadoed (beaten on the feet with sticks)
+or imprisoned. He declared at first that he had come for some string,
+which he had noticed on a shelf, to mend my saddle; but finally
+confessed that the dolls had been the object of his visit. About
+six small ones were found in his pockets; he had wanted them for his
+children. We told him that if he had only asked he should have had
+one given him. I shall never forget his astonishment when my husband
+told him to choose the one he liked best and take it to his little
+girl. He wept for joy and gratitude.
+
+Swearing is very largely indulged in by men and women alike; it seems
+to come as naturally to them as swimming to a duck. Originally the
+words "wallah," "yallah," "billah," were used as swear expressions;
+but are now looked upon more as ejaculations equivalent to our "good
+gracious!" "goodness!" &c.; the real swear words being "wallahi,"
+"billahi," &c. Some of the women cannot keep the expression wallah
+out of their conversation, though I try hard to persuade them to do
+so. For instance, a visitor comes; you remark to her on the extreme
+heat. "Wallah," comes the answer, "it is hot!" Or you inquire after
+some member of her family. "Wallah, she is very ill," is the reply.
+
+I was visiting one day in a Moslem house, and the old mother-in-law
+said to me, "What has happened to X.?" mentioning her daughter-in-law;
+"she never swears now!" I was indeed thankful for this unexpected
+tribute to that woman's efforts. We started an anti-swearing society
+amongst a few of the women; it was quite funny to see how they
+endeavoured to keep back the old familiar words which had been on
+their lips since childhood.
+
+One little boy joined with the women, and he found it hardest of
+all; but when we left he was still persevering. He learnt the Ten
+Commandments by heart, so whenever I heard him use a swear word I
+made him repeat the third commandment.
+
+The women are terribly fond of couching their denials in the form
+of oaths, as "May my hand be broken," "May I become blind," "May my
+interior become dried up if I did such and such a thing!" It makes
+me shiver sometimes to hear them swearing to a lie in this way;
+and I often tell them that if God only took them at their word,
+they would be stricken blind many times over.
+
+It is not an unknown thing for women to resort occasionally to fighting
+as a pastime, but I am thankful to say I have not seen much of it. A
+woman came to the Dispensary once with a fearful-looking hand: the
+thumb was about six times its normal size and had become gangrenous. My
+husband said the only possible cure was amputation; to this the woman
+would not consent. She said that a short time before she had been
+fighting with another woman, who had bitten her thumb in her fury. I
+asked this woman what she had done to her opponent. "Oh," she said,
+"I only pulled out her hair!"
+
+Another woman once brought me quite a handful of hair to show,
+which she declared her husband had just pulled out of her head in his
+anger; while he at the same time exhibited several ugly wounds on his
+hand caused by his wife's teeth! The man vowed he would divorce her,
+refusing to listen to any suggestions as to forgiveness, saying, "What
+would my neighbours say of me if I kept for my wife a woman who would
+do that?" pointing to the bites on his hand. However, in the end he
+did consent to take her back, being on the whole an amicably disposed
+man. Can we wonder that these things should happen when neither the
+men nor the women have ever learnt to control their passions? We
+have glanced at the lives of the Moslem women of Mosul. Can we say
+that they lead an ennobling, beautiful life? Are the home influences
+such as to foster a happy, peaceful spirit? On the contrary, we have
+seen that a woman deserves our pity and sympathy for all the sorrow
+she has to endure.
+
+Have we not seen that at birth she is unwelcome, as a child uncared-for
+and untaught, as a young woman imprisoned behind the veil, as a wife
+unloved, as a mother unhonoured; and when her weary life draws to
+a close she knows that she will go to her grave unmourned. Such in
+brief outline is the life of a Moslem woman.
+
+A woman's one place of recreation is the hammam. It is indeed a
+kind of ladies' club; here she throws away for the time being all
+her home worries and troubles, enjoying thoroughly her few hours of
+liberty. As a rule the bath takes at least two hours, and often half
+a day, if the woman has no special demands on her time. She generally
+goes in the morning, taking with her a complete change of raiment,
+a mat to sit upon in the cooling chamber, and plenty of towels,
+also some food to be partaken of after the exertions of the bath are
+over. I once went to one of these hammams, but the heat was so intense
+that I could only stand it for a few minutes. I often wonder how ever
+the women can exist in such great heat for so long; I suppose it is
+because they are used to it. Many illnesses date from a visit to the
+hammam; but still they would not give it up for any consideration,
+thinking it quite impossible to take a bath in the house. Certainly
+the Turkish bath is much cleaner than the Persian one. In the latter
+a large tank is used, and as it costs a good deal to warm up, the
+water is not changed very often. In the Turkish hammam each person
+has a tap for herself, from which flows presumably clean water. As
+a matter of fact sometimes this water has already been used, but
+only in the cheaper hammams. The most expensive baths have river
+water brought up for the purpose; in the others well water is used,
+and as this is brackish and very hard it is impossible to use soap,
+for it will not lather; therefore a special kind of earth is used,
+which is said to be very good for washing the hair with.
+
+When Judy, our woman servant, returns from the bath, she always comes
+and gives me a kiss, this being their custom, and we exchange the
+salutations usual upon any one returning from the hammam.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+CUSTOMS OF MOSUL
+
+    Wedding ceremonies--Great expense to parents--Method of
+    procedure--Funeral customs--Customs at birth--Some other customs.
+
+
+                           "The bridegroom's doors are open wide,
+                            And I am next of kin;
+                            The guests are met, the feast is set;
+                            May'st hear the merry din."
+
+                                                        S. T. Coleridge.
+
+
+We have seen that a wedding is a very expensive matter in Mosul,
+especially to parents who possess three or four daughters; for
+unless the necessary gold, jewellery, and clothing are forthcoming
+as a dowry, the marriage will never take place. For this reason a
+man with a number of daughters will begin saving for their marriage
+portion and expenses while the girl is yet a baby, and the mothers
+will often commence gathering together clothing even before the child
+is betrothed, so that they may be better prepared for the expensive
+event when it does take place.
+
+Then, too, not only is there the outlay for the dowry and clothing,
+but also for the feasting of some hundreds, it maybe, of guests during
+the seven days following the marriage. A man of very fair means in
+Mosul once told me that the marriage of his daughters cost him at
+least L200 each, and as he had seven daughters the sum total required
+was not small. If this man with a good income found it hard work to
+produce the necessary cash, how much harder is it for those who have
+no settled income, or whose earnings are small. For instance, a native
+Christian whom we respected and liked very much had two daughters;
+both were betrothed and ready to be married. He was earning about
+L3 a month, and had a wife and six children to support--how could he
+provide all the necessary gold and other ornaments for his girls? And
+yet, if he did not, in all probability his daughters would never be
+married. There was only one way out of the difficulty, and that was
+to borrow at high interest, crippling himself for many years to come,
+perhaps for the rest of his life. Instances might be multiplied, but I
+think enough has been said to show that girls are expensive luxuries
+in Mosul as regards their weddings! Now as to the "preparations"
+for the great and eventful day.
+
+When a man makes up his mind to be married, or his parents decide in
+their minds that it is high time their son should take to himself a
+wife, many are the consultations which take place, and great is the
+importance of the women folk concerned. They are never so happy as
+when arranging for a marriage, loving the mystery and secrecy of it;
+for it would never do for a fond mother to offer the hand of her dear
+son in marriage to the mother of a possible bride and be refused. The
+shame and ignominy would be too great; so the mother and other female
+relations of the would-be bridegroom have to go very carefully to work
+in selecting the girl and in making any proposal for marriage. Before
+the actual "asking" is done, the way has to be prepared by very careful
+hints and indirect inquiries as to the girl's health, accomplishments,
+and dowry.  If all proves satisfactory, then a formal proposal is
+made. The matter having gone so far, a refusal is very unusual, and,
+if given, is considered a great insult. I heard of one young man who
+threatened to murder all the relations of a girl for whom he had made
+proposals of marriage upon her parents refusing to accept his offer.
+
+I have often been asked by Moslem women to suggest some girl as
+a suitable bride either for their brother or son. On mentioning
+some girls whom I knew, their answers were something as follows:
+"Oh, but she has a white patch on her eye," or "She is too poor," or
+"She has a bad temper," or "She is not pretty." Their idea of beauty
+is that of a white, pasty, fat face, without a vestige of colour,
+except that which art applies! Of course, the man never sees the girl
+till the day of betrothal, and in the case of Moslems not till the
+actual marriage takes place. The old custom amongst the Christians of
+marrying a girl against her will is still extant in some villages.
+Sometimes it happens that a girl persists in her dislike to marry,
+even till the priest has arrived to tie the knot: in this case the
+father would bind the girl's arms and legs till the marriage ceremony
+was completed, when she was released, it being useless then for further
+resistance on her part. This is done even now in some villages near
+Mosul when the girl proves obstinate. As a rule, though, they accept
+their fate as "Naseeb," knowing it is little or no use to struggle
+against custom. How often my heart aches for some poor child who is
+bound to a man old enough to be her grandfather or great-grandfather
+sometimes. Alas, too often old in sin as well as years!
+
+When the day of the marriage approaches, invitations are sent out to
+all friends and relations for the specified days of feasting. First
+comes the day for taking the bride to the bath--this is considered a
+great function; then follows a week of excitement, dancing, singing,
+feasting, all forming part of the great event. All thoroughly enjoy
+themselves, even those who have to work the hardest in preparing the
+food. The guests are expected to remain from morning till sunset. Three
+meals are provided each day, the morning one consisting of bread,
+cream, butter, fruit, &c.; the midday meal is a substantial one of
+meat, cooked in various ways, rice, chicken, and vegetables according
+to the season. The evening meal is also a very heavy one, causing
+the guests to depart perfectly satisfied both with their dinner
+and themselves.
+
+During the whole of the week the poor bride has to sit in the reception
+room on a cushion specially prepared for brides, and takes no part in
+the surrounding gaieties. Each day she appears in a fresh silk dress,
+and is often covered with golden jewellery. She is not supposed
+to speak till spoken to, and the guests do not take much notice of
+her beyond the usual kiss of salutation. At meal times she is "fed"
+by her relations, a bride being supposed to be too overcome to help
+herself or eat without assistance.
+
+After the days of feasting are over, the bride takes her place in
+the house as "servant" to her mother-in-law. In a Moslem house the
+youngest and latest bride always becomes the servant of all for the
+first year of married life, or till another and younger one is brought
+to the home. Much depends on the mother-in-law's character as to the
+happiness or otherwise of the inmates of the hareem. If they wish,
+they can make the lives of the young wives perfectly miserable,
+or the reverse.
+
+The same custom of feasting for a certain number of days takes
+place too in connection with funerals. The guests who come to mourn
+sit in solemn silence all day long; their mourning does not lessen
+their appetite, however, for they thoroughly enjoy their "feast"
+of sorrow. After a death, the "wailers" are brought in. I went once
+to a Christian house of mourning to see these wailing women. It
+was a ghastly sight. The professional wailers sat on the ground in
+the centre of the relations and guests, and worked themselves and
+others into such a frenzy that I thought some would have fainted from
+exhaustion; slapping their knees, tearing their hair and clothes,
+till they resembled maniacs more than women.
+
+A short time ago a very sad and sudden death took place in Mosul in
+a house very close to us. We were awakened one night, while sleeping
+on the roof, by hearing the terrible wailing sounds coming from our
+neighbour's house. At the same time a messenger arrived in great haste,
+asking my husband to go at once to see the patient, as his relatives
+were not sure if he was dead or only in a fit. He had been out during
+the night to some Moslem religious function, and died quite suddenly
+on his return.
+
+The wailing went on in the hareem for seven days, and was terrible
+to hear. The sound of the weird wailing of some hundred women is
+perfectly indescribable, always ending up with a piercing shriek
+which seems to rend the air and freeze one's blood.
+
+Being friends and neighbours, I paid daily visits to the mourners
+during that week, but did not sit amongst the guests, preferring to
+spend the time with the sisters of the deceased in a quiet room above
+the din and uproar of the courtyard. The wailing has such a hopeless
+sound, as of a lost soul in anguish. One longed for them to know of
+Jesus the Living One, and of the time when partings shall be no more.
+
+After death has visited a family, the whole house in which the departed
+one lived is not swept for three days: this is because they believe
+that the angel of death is still hovering near, and they fear lest,
+while they are sweeping, others of the household may be swept from
+the house by the angel. So the house becomes very dirty, the carpets
+covered with cigarette ash and ends, but nothing can be touched till
+the third day is safely passed.
+
+Amongst the Christians it is also the custom after the death of a
+relative, not to go to the hammam (bath) for six months, and for
+the men to go unshaven for at least six weeks. The women are very
+particular about not going to the hammam while mourning, as I found
+to my sorrow. Our woman servant Judy lost her father just before she
+entered our service, and she allowed a whole year to elapse before she
+could be prevailed upon to go to the bath. They are very particular,
+too, about wearing "deep" clothing--that is, dresses of some dark
+colour, not necessarily black.
+
+I am sure that the custom of burying a few hours after death is often
+the cause of many people being buried alive. I have often been regaled
+by an old woman with horrible stories of how some friends of hers
+have just escaped being buried alive. For those who providentially
+escape being entombed alive one is thankful; but what of the many who
+most certainly are condemned to this awful fate. It is too terrible
+to contemplate. In a land where no medical certificates are required,
+and where the body is carried to the cemetery almost before it is cold,
+how can it be otherwise?
+
+But to proceed to other and more pleasing customs--let us pass
+from death to life. When a child is born in Mosul, whether Moslem
+or Christian, the first idea of the parents is to protect the child
+from the baneful influence of the Evil Eye. The usual custom is to
+thread a gall, and suspend it round the neck of the infant. Moslems
+enclose a portion of the Koran in a little bag, and fasten that round
+the arm of the child or sew it on to the cap. The custom of wearing
+charms to avert the Evil Eye is very prevalent, and deeply rooted in
+the minds of the Mosul people.
+
+The kissing of hands is a very pretty custom. Children are all taught
+to do this even before they can speak or walk. Servants are always very
+anxious to kiss your hands after they have done something especially
+annoying or irritating. They make a grab for your hand, and kiss it
+before you realise what they are doing. In this way they secure your
+forgiveness before the fault is confessed. I am getting more wary now,
+and prefer to hear first what they have done before letting them kiss
+my hand. It is also a sign of gratitude. Upon receiving any backsheesh
+or present, the recipient is always ready to kiss your hand. Sometimes,
+when riding through the city, I have had my hand grasped and kissed
+by some passer-by who has been an in-patient in the hospital, and
+wished to show his gratitude in this way. It requires a great deal
+of gratitude or love for a man to kiss a woman's hand, so, when by
+chance it does occur, I feel very much honoured indeed.
+
+There is one custom which is often the cause of a great deal of
+heartburning, even as it was in the days of Haman and Mordecai. It is
+usual for a host or hostess to rise from their seat upon the arrival
+of each guest--that is, if they desire to do honour to that person. As
+a rule this custom is most carefully adhered to, but it lends itself
+admirably to any one wishing to be rude to his guest or to shame him
+before his friends. Fortunately, this is not often the case, but when
+it does happen one feels very uncomfortable. There is one dear old lady
+in Mosul, who thinks it beneath her dignity to rise to a Feringhi. But,
+perhaps, it is excusable for her as she is a Hadji--that is, one who
+has made the pilgrimage to Mecca, and, consequently, is treated as
+an exalted being by all her friends and relations.
+
+A rather quaint and pleasing custom in Mosul is that of sending trays
+containing a dinner all ready cooked and dished to new-comers, or to
+those returning after a long period of absence. We did not know of
+this custom when first we went to Mosul, so were very surprised at
+sunset on our second day after arrival to see two or three men coming
+into the compound carrying huge trays on their heads. They explained
+that their master, a Moslem merchant, had sent this meal, with many
+salaams and good wishes. It was a dinner large enough for twenty
+people, so we gathered together all we could find on the premises,
+assistants, catechist, and others, who had been kindly helping us
+to settle down. Spreading some Persian carpets in the courtyard,
+we sat down and thoroughly enjoyed our first Arab meal in Mosul.
+
+When any one is leaving the place or starting on a journey,
+it is customary for the people to send in large trays containing
+sweetmeats, cakes, and other eatables suitable for taking with you on
+the road. When we were leaving Mosul, we received quite a large number
+of these trays--so many, indeed, that at the end of our fourteen days
+of desert we still had a good many of their contents remaining. Some
+of these were made of almonds pounded and mixed with sugar; others
+were made from puff pastry sandwiched with honey: these latter were
+especially nice.
+
+Distributing food to the poor as a mark of gratitude and thankfulness
+is another of Mosul's good customs. After recovering from a dangerous
+illness, it is usual to make and distribute a large quantity of bread,
+baked in a special way, and flavoured with caraway seeds.
+
+The birth of a son and heir is also celebrated by a generous and
+lavish distribution of meat and bread. When starting on a journey,
+too, it is usual to give away to the poor either money or food. On
+every occasion of life which calls for gratitude to God, this custom
+of presenting offerings to the poor is carried out. One dear woman,
+a friend of mine, went even further than this. It was thought at
+one time that we should be leaving Mosul for good, the Mission
+being withdrawn. Providentially, this was over-ruled, and when the
+news arrived from England that the Mission was to be kept on, great
+were the rejoicings amongst the people. The woman mentioned above
+immediately desired to show her thankfulness to God in a very special
+way, so spent one whole day in making a large supply of small loaves
+of bread, not to distribute to the poor, but to feed the hungry,
+starving dogs of the streets. This by a Moslem woman was, indeed,
+a work of love, dogs being looked upon as unclean beasts. Surely she
+"that loveth much shall be forgiven much."
+
+Coffee-making and drinking is associated very much with life in
+Mosul. It is the custom there to give every one who comes to the house
+a cup of Arab coffee. This meant sometimes for us giving at least
+200 cups in a day. Not only those who come as social visitors receive
+the coffee, but also all who come to the house on whatever pretext,
+whether for meetings, classes, or what not. At feast times one servant
+is always told off to do nothing else but prepare the coffee for the
+guests. On each of the great feasts, such as Christmas and Easter, it
+is the custom for every one to call, Moslems and Christians alike. At
+Christmas the feast lasts for three days, and at Easter a week,
+the whole of which time coffee must be ready to be handed at once to
+every caller; also a tray of sweets, consisting of Turkish delight,
+almond sugar, and other Mosul-made confections.
+
+When a house is "mourning," bitter coffee is given to all callers
+for six months, and on the first day of each feast for a whole year.
+
+I do not think I have ever visited a Moslem house, however poor,
+without receiving either a cup of coffee or some sweets. I often
+beg them not to make preparations for me, but they always insist,
+as their hospitable instincts are very strong. Indeed, more often
+than not, they set before me not only coffee or sweets, but meat,
+fruit, and lebban (sour milk).
+
+A true Arab of the desert takes about an hour to make a cup of
+coffee. First of all the coffee has to be roasted, then ground to
+powder, and, lastly, boiled. The Arabs never sweeten their coffee,
+sugar not being a commodity of the desert.
+
+I once heard the recipe for making Arab or Turkish coffee. Perhaps
+some readers may like to try their hand at making it.
+
+First roast the coffee to a rich brown, neither too light nor too
+dark, then grind it to a soft powder. Now comes the art of making
+good coffee. Half-fill the pot with cold water; bring it to boiling
+point. Throw in a handful of powdered coffee; allow it to boil; shake
+down and bring it to the boil again. Repeat this process three times,
+and the coffee is ready. Specially note: Never wash the pot! Needless
+to say, this last injunction I do not carry out, but the servants quite
+believe in that part of the recipe. It is only with great difficulty
+I can persuade them to wash out the coffee-pot occasionally.
+
+In summer, this reluctance on their part often leads to serious
+complications. The kitchen, as may be supposed, is not a very cool
+place during the hot season, consequently it suffers continually
+from a plague of flies. Dead flies are often served up in puddings
+and other dishes, to act presumably as an appetiser! Then eating
+requires a great effort. The coffee-pot seems to serve as a trap for
+many of these flies, attracted no doubt by the sugar, and there they
+find a coffee grave. Suddenly a visitor is announced, and the message
+is conveyed to the kitchen to "Send coffee at once." The cook seizes
+the pot, never looking to see how many victims are struggling in the
+dregs at the bottom, adds a little freshly-ground coffee, boils it
+up, and sends it in to the visitor served in dainty little cups. The
+visitor takes one sip, and...! I will draw a veil over the sequel. A
+mouthful of dead flies is not a very palatable drink. My feelings
+may be better imagined than described.
+
+Sometimes a guest does not approve of the way the coffee is made
+(even when minus flies); if so, she is not shy, and does not hesitate
+to hand it back with a grimace, saying to your servant: "What horrid
+coffee! why do you not make better?" and often demands another cup
+properly made.
+
+A visit to the bread-makers may not be out of place here. It is
+the custom amongst some of the people to bake bread once a month,
+sufficient to last that length of time. Baking-day is a day to
+be dreaded. The process begins soon after midnight, when the woman
+arrives to prepare the flour and "set" the dough for rising. The whole
+of that day every woman on the premises is pressed into service--one
+to make the dough into little cakes, another gives it a preliminary
+roll, then hands it to her neighbour, who uses a smaller roller, and
+finally hands it on to some one else to finish it off. When completed,
+the bread is about as thin as note-paper and as large round as a
+child's wooden hoop. The bread is now ready to be baked. The fuel
+used for heating the oven is chopped straw and goats' dung, which
+is burnt till the required heat is obtained; then these large thin
+pieces of bread are plastered to the sides of the oven, and removed
+as they are browned to an exact nicety. This bread is very nice when
+fresh and crisp; when stale, it is generally soaked in water before
+being brought to the table.
+
+We do not make our bread in this way. I tried it once for the hospital
+in-patients, but found it took far too much time. The daily baking
+is much more suitable when from thirty to forty people have to be
+fed daily.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+DREAMS AND VISIONS
+
+    Ezekiel's vision by the river Chebar--Our vision by the river
+    Khabour--Rivers identical--"A wheel within a wheel"--Babylonish
+    emblem of divinity--Origin of the cherubim--Dream of a woman
+    suffering from cataract--Effect of dream on her character--Watch
+    and chain recovered by means of a "faked" dream--Illustration
+    of the doctrine of Kismet or Naseeb--"Ghosts" in our
+    compound--Atmosphere of ghosts bad for fowls.
+
+
+                    "O dreamer, dream thy dream, and dream it true.
+
+                                                       Sir Lewis Morris.
+
+
+                    "Did not Heaven speak to men in dreams of old?"
+
+                                                          Lord Tennyson.
+
+
+                                    "... The vision of my soul
+                    Has looked upon its Sun and turns no more
+                          To any lower light."
+
+                                                       Sir Lewis Morris.
+
+
+Dreams and visions have a great influence on the Eastern mind. They
+believe most firmly that God often speaks by means of these agencies,
+using them as a warning of impending danger, or as a voice of
+instruction.
+
+Ezekiel was no exception to this rule, for we read in the words of
+his prophecy, "That the heavens were opened, and I saw visions of
+God." This vision was given to him as he stood by the river Chebar
+in the land of the Chaldeans. The river Chebar is none other than the
+Khabour, over which we have passed more than once in our "journeyings
+oft." When on our way back to England we crossed this river, and
+as we sat near its banks, even as Ezekiel did of old, we too were
+vouchsafed a "vision of God."
+
+We had travelled through a weary stretch of waterless desert that
+day, and were rejoicing in the fact that our camping-ground for the
+night was by the banks of a river--the Chebar. Only those who have
+journeyed for days through a parched-up desert land can tell the joy
+with which a river is sighted. We experienced something of that joy
+on the evening when we saw water for the first time for two or three
+days. We pitched our camp as close to the river as possible, and,
+sitting at our tent door, prepared to enjoy to the full the beauties
+before us. Looking up I saw in front of me a glorious sight. I quickly
+called my husband, and together we stood and watched this wonderful
+vision. The sun was sinking as a ball of fire behind the river, when
+suddenly from its centre there arose beautiful prismatic lights. These
+gradually resolved themselves into the form of a huge wheel, each
+spoke of the wheel being of a different colour, merging gradually
+and almost imperceptibly into the next, as in the rainbow. Within
+this "wheel" was another and smaller one, also composed of the same
+prismatic hues. The outer circle of each wheel was formed by a band of
+bright opaque light. On the top of these wheels was a visionary form
+resembling the beginning of another wheel, but it was too indistinct
+for me to say what definite shape it possessed. At either side of
+these wheels was a large wing, as it were overshadowing the wheels;
+these were also of a bright white. The whole formed a most wonderful
+and never to be forgotten sight, and we felt indeed that this was a
+vision of God.
+
+While in Mosul my husband had received a letter from a gentleman in
+England, asking him to keep a look-out for any such phenomenon as
+this. On reaching home it was interesting to find on good authority
+that the sight we had seen on the banks of the Khabour was one of
+historical interest. The form of the wheels is almost identical with
+the emblem which the Babylonians adopted to represent Divinity. On
+the same authority I learnt, too, that in all probability a vision
+similar to this was the origin of the cherubims. It is believed by
+an expert on the subject that the whole of the "vision" is caused by
+atmospheric influences, the sun acting on the particles of frost in
+the air, thus forming the prismatic colours. Be this as it may, the
+result was truly marvellous, and we were thankful that we had been
+privileged to see "the heavens open," revealing this vision of God.
+
+The whole spectacle could not have lasted more than five minutes,
+but the sky retained its blaze of colour for about a quarter of an
+hour after; then darkness covered the heavens.
+
+The natives of Mosul are great believers in dreams, and accept
+them as good or bad omens. A short time ago a Moslem woman came
+to the Dispensary suffering from double cataract. She had been
+quite blind for many years, and was very anxious for an operation,
+saying if only she could have enough sight to sweep the compound
+she would be satisfied, as then she could earn her livelihood. The
+doctor, after examining her eyes, told the woman that he could not
+promise her a good result from the operation, as her eyes were not
+healthy. However, as she was absolutely blind, it was worth while
+to try, and perhaps she might see sufficiently afterwards to find
+her way about. Accordingly she was admitted to the Hospital to
+await her time for operation. She was a very affectionate woman,
+and seemed to be gifted with great powers of intuition. When I went
+to the door of the ward, even before I spoke, she always called out,
+"There's my khatoun!" Sometimes I crept in quietly just to see if she
+would know I was present; she almost invariably did, and sitting up in
+bed would listen intently, and then say to one of the other patients,
+"Is not the khatoun here?" Then when she felt my hand, she would grasp
+it and say, "I knew it, I knew it; I felt here" (pointing to her heart)
+"that my khatoun was in the room!" She was such an excitable woman
+that my husband feared that she would do something foolish either at
+the time of the operation or after. He warned her that if she did not
+keep quiet she might lose her eye altogether; but as the fateful day
+approached she became more and more nervous. One morning, however,
+she appeared quite calm, and hastened to tell us the reason of her
+peace of mind. During the night she had seen a vision which had
+quieted all her fears and made her trustful and believing.
+
+In her dream she seemed to be walking in the desert, where she met
+a mullah, who immediately began to revile and curse her. While he
+was thus engaged the woman saw a form coming towards her which she
+knew to be that of our Lord (Jesus the Living One, as He is called
+in Arabic). He began to speak gently to the woman, asking her why
+she was weeping; she replied by telling our Lord that the mullah
+had been cursing her. In her dream she then saw (although blind)
+that our Lord turned to the mullah and rebuked him for cursing the
+woman. Then turning to the wondering woman, He said, "Do not weep,
+my daughter, for the English doctor is going to give you sight in
+a few days," and then He left her. She awoke firmly convinced that
+this was a special revelation from God through Jesus our Lord to
+assure her that her eyesight was to be restored. From that time she
+was perfectly calm and quiet, and remained so the whole time she was
+in the hospital. The day before the operation she was again warned
+that she might not see any better after; but she smiled and said,
+"To-morrow I shall see!" Her faith was rewarded, as the operation
+was successful, and after two or three weeks she went out with very
+good vision in one eye, and she is waiting for our return to have
+the other operated upon.
+
+My husband was once travelling "chappa" (post) in Persia from Yezd to
+Kerman, when one evening he found to his great sorrow that he had lost
+his gold watch and chain. Both were very valuable to him on account
+of their associations, so he was very sad at the thought of losing
+them. The same night he met another Englishman who was returning to
+Yezd. He told him of his loss, and asked him to make inquiries along
+the road, offering a reward to any one who would bring back his watch
+and chain. His friend promised to do all he could, and, calling his
+servant, explained to him about the loss, and told him to keep a sharp
+look-out for any news of the lost goods. This servant was a very smart
+man. The next morning they met a camel caravan on the road to Kerman,
+and the servant went up to the driver and said to him--
+
+"Oh, my noble brother, may your kindness never grow less; my sleep
+has been troubled last night by dreams of you."
+
+"Estakfarullah!" (God forbid), says the camel-driver. "Why was my
+lord's sleep disturbed by dreams of me, who am not worthy?"
+
+"Yes; I saw in my dream that you stooped and picked up something."
+
+"Then your dream was wrong," hastily interposed the camel-driver,
+"for I have picked up nothing."
+
+"And lo! in my dream," continued the wily servant, "I saw that the
+thing which you picked up was worthless, only a cheap thing which will
+bring you no gain." The camel-driver here looking sad, the servant
+continued: "But the owner of that worthless thing is very anxious to
+find it, as although of no value in money, yet he cherishes it as a
+thing he loves."
+
+"But I told you," repeats the camel-driver, "that I never picked
+up anything."
+
+"Then in my dream," continues the servant, carefully ignoring the
+reiterated denial of the camel-driver, "I saw you glance at this
+useless object in your hand and then place it inside your aba" (cloak).
+
+"No, no," cries the driver, "I never picked it up."
+
+"So if you will let me show you where it is, I can relieve you of
+this worthless object."
+
+After a little more parleying of this sort, the camel-driver
+produces my husband's watch and chain, and receives in return a
+small backsheesh. The servant, highly delighted with himself and his
+sagacity, smiled as he pockets in imagination the promised reward of
+five tomans (L1). The camel-driver confessed afterwards that he was
+so taken aback at the idea of his deeds being revealed in a dream to
+this man that he would not have kept the watch at any cost.
+
+Needless to say the "dream" was only a faked one, manufactured to
+work on the superstitious mind of the simple camel-driver.
+
+In Mosul the chief of the Seyyids once told the doctor a story relating
+to a remarkable dream. It was as follows. Two men once called on a
+mullah to question him regarding a matter which had been troubling
+them. The cause of their dispute was this. On going to their work
+each day these men passed a ladder leaning against a wall. One of
+the two always avoided going under lest it should fall and kill him;
+while the other said, "No, I will not run from danger, for whatever
+Allah has decreed must be. If it is written that I am to be killed
+by the ladder, I shall be." So the two friends, after having spent
+much time in arguing this knotty question, decided to lay the matter
+before a mullah and leave the decision to him. The mullah listened
+to them both, but told them that such a serious question needed
+much thought. He appointed a day for them to return and hear his
+verdict. After their departure the mullah fell into a sleep, and in
+his sleep he dreamed. In the dream he beheld a beautiful boy, the
+son of a king whom his soul loved exceedingly; then later he met a
+stranger, who told him that he (the mullah) was to cause the death
+of the boy he loved so much. The mullah, filled with indignation,
+repudiated the idea, saying that he loved the boy too much to do
+him any harm. "Nevertheless," said the stranger, "it must be, for
+Allah has decreed that the boy is to meet his death through you, and
+what is written is written." The old mullah returned to his house
+troubled and sad at heart, but determined that he would do nothing
+that could in any way bring disaster to the boy. Still dreaming,
+the mullah received a summons to visit the young prince. Remembering
+the words of the stranger, he took with him nothing that could in any
+way injure the boy, contenting himself by taking with him one gift
+only--an apple. The boy received the mullah in his beautiful island
+home, and the two enjoyed some blissful hours of converse together.
+
+Finally, ere saying farewell, the old man with extended hands presented
+the apple to the boy, who gladly accepted it, and proposed eating it at
+once. The mullah, taking a penknife from his inner pocket, peeled the
+apple, and returned it on the point of the knife to the young prince,
+who, boylike, grasped it eagerly. In taking the apple the point of
+the knife pricked the finger of the lad, with the result that blood
+poisoning set in, and in a short time the beautiful boy lay dead. The
+mullah in his sorrow wept aloud, and as he wept he awoke. With humble
+heart and head bowed in submission, he gave glory to Allah.
+
+On the day appointed the two men returned to hear the verdict of the
+wise mullah. He received them kindly, but sorrowfully, assuring them
+that it made not the slightest difference whether they walked under
+the ladder or not.
+
+"For," said the old man, "if it is written that you are to be killed
+by a ladder falling upon you, it must be so, you cannot escape. What
+Allah has written must be fulfilled. His designs cannot be frustrated."
+
+This doctrine, taught to the old mullah by means of his dream, is
+very prominent in the minds of all Moslems to-day.
+
+When in Persia we had an Indian servant who was a Mohammedan. He told
+us that three times on successive nights our Lord had appeared to
+him in a dream, in the form of an old man with a long white beard. So
+struck was he with the persistency of the dream, that he went to an
+English clergyman, asking to be taught the Christian religion.
+
+The women in Mosul have often told me of wonderful things which they
+declared were going to happen to me, as had been revealed to them in
+dreams. Even now I receive letters from some of these women in which
+they say, "We see you every night in our dreams."
+
+The first women in-patients in our so-called hospital in Mosul had to
+be content with a kind of outhouse for their ward. The only place we
+could find for them which would be hareem was a large room which we
+used as a wood-house. This my husband had whitewashed and thoroughly
+cleansed and disinfected. The first unfortunate woman to be put in
+this ward (?) was a very quiet, gentle Moslem woman, who came for an
+operation. Her mother came with her to look after her, and these two
+were alone in their none too comfortable quarters.
+
+Two or three days after the operation, these women declared that in
+the night a huge form of dragon-like appearance rose from the ground
+at their side!
+
+Some weeks later this ward was occupied by a little Jewish girl who
+had been terribly burnt, her mother and grandmother looking after
+her. There were also two or three other women in the ward. One morning
+very early, word was brought to us that all the inmates of that room
+had been terribly frightened in the night. On going out to see what
+had happened, we found them all lying in the passage, having carried
+their bedding out of the room. They were looking very unhappy and
+frightened, and requested to be allowed to leave the hospital at once,
+saying they would not pass another night in that awful place. Then
+they all began to recount their experiences of the night at the same
+time, so it was with great difficulty we could find out what really
+had happened. It seems that soon after midnight they were talking
+to one another, when suddenly they saw two soldiers sitting on the
+edge of their bedsteads. Terribly alarmed, they asked the men however
+they came to be there--did they not know it was "hareem"? At first the
+soldiers remained silent, but afterwards told the women that they had
+come from a village about twelve miles off. That they had been told
+in a dream to come to the beit hakeem Engelisi (house of the English
+doctor). In obedience to this command they had come. Then, as suddenly
+as they had arrived, they disappeared. The women, of course, were all
+fearfully alarmed, some believing that they were real soldiers, others
+that they were genii in the form of soldiers. They immediately left
+the room, carrying their bedding with them, and spent the rest of the
+night in fear and trembling. The next morning we made a very careful
+examination of the roof, to see if by any possible means soldiers could
+have entered our compound. We found that next door was the house of
+the head of the soldiers, and it was possible that some of his guard
+might have found their way over the walls and down to our house.
+
+Nothing, however, was ever proved; but no one could ever be induced
+to use that room again, the women declaring that it was haunted by
+evil spirits. Finally, we made it into a hen-house; but the fowls
+and turkeys all sickened and died, so there evidently was something
+very wrong with the atmosphere of that room! Our first attempt at a
+women's ward was certainly a failure, but "it is an ill wind that
+blows nobody any good," and so good came out of this evil. As the
+women would not use the haunted (?) room, other accommodation had to
+be found, so we gave up our house for them, while we moved into the
+one next door--the room which was neither good for human beings nor
+for feathered fowls being now used as a wood-house.
+
+Once when travelling in the desert, a spot was pointed out to us as
+being the abode of Jinns and Genii. This spot is much abhorred by
+the muleteers, as they believe that any one camping on that ground
+is liable to be overtaken by a terrible death. The enchanted ground
+is encircled by some landmarks, and it is said that any one going to
+sleep within that magic circle will at once be visited by the Jinns
+inhabiting the spot, who will immediately come and suck his blood
+till he is dead.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+MANNERS AND SUPERSTITIONS IN MOSUL
+
+    Characteristics of inhabitants of Mosul--Social habits--Love of
+    drink--An effectual cure--Gambling--Tel Kaif: a story of Uncle
+    Goro--The Angel of Death and other titles--Difficulties over name
+    and age--Some superstitions--Effect of scent on women--Birds
+    of good omen--Thieves--Sheep-killing--Sheikh Matti--An angel's
+    visit--Medical superstitions--Cure for hydrophobia.
+
+
+            "Nothing has more effect upon the mob than superstition."
+
+                                                        Quintus Curtius.
+
+
+                                    "To be superstitious is a crime."
+
+                                                                   Anon.
+
+
+    "Sickness and sorrow come and go, but a superstitious soul hath
+    no rest."
+
+                                                              R. Burton.
+
+
+The natives of Mosul are, as a rule, a very simple-hearted
+folk. They are easily amused, easily taken in, and as easily roused
+to passion. They are, on the whole, good-tempered and patient, and,
+considering the absolute lack of self-control in their method of
+bringing up, they give way far less to their passions than might
+be expected.
+
+They dearly love social habits, and spend much time in company, telling
+and listening to stories, smoking, and drinking coffee. Unfortunately,
+they do not confine their drink to coffee, and these social habits
+often lead to a great deal of drinking. Arak is the favourite
+refreshment at these times, and is indulged in by both Christian and
+Moslem alike. It is a pure spirit, and is made by the Christians
+and Jews of Mosul, and sold by them to the Moslems. No ceremony
+is complete without the arak bottle. At weddings, funerals, dinner
+parties, at each and every season of life, it is thought necessary to
+provide this fire-water. I am sorry to say that the women also drink,
+but not to such an extent as the men.
+
+It is, of course, considered a great sin for a Moslem to drink either
+wine or spirit, as both have been forbidden in the Koran: but their
+love for the arak is stronger in many cases than their love of the
+Koran. A Mosul Moslem woman told me a short time ago that she did
+not think there was one Moslem man in Mosul who did not drink either
+wine or arak. I hope this is an exaggeration, but the tendency to be
+less ashamed of the drinking habit and to indulge in it more freely
+is growing more and more. It is sad to think that the Christians
+of the city are the manufacturers and vendors of spirit and wines,
+and that they are responsible for introducing them into Mosul.
+
+A story is told of a Sultan of Turkey who, desirous of putting a
+stop to the ever-increasing drink traffic, made a law by which every
+Moslem found the worse for drink should be cast into prison. The first
+morning after the new law had come into action, a Moslem was found
+drunk lying in the street, incapable of walking to his home. He was
+immediately taken to prison, and allowed to sleep off the effects of
+the drink. When he awoke, great was his surprise to find himself in
+the interior of a prison. On being taken before the judge, he pleaded
+"Not guilty," and said that he had been suffering for some days from
+a terrible pain in his tooth, and yesterday had gone to the hakeem
+(doctor) to obtain medicine to relieve the pain. The doctor had told
+him that the best cure for his pain was to drink a little brandy, so
+he had followed his advice, with the result that he fell asleep and
+only awoke to find himself in prison. The judge then commiserated
+the man on having such bad pain, but assured him it was easily
+remedied. Calling to one of his servants, he ordered him to go at once
+and fetch the barber, who acted as dentist to all such sufferers. The
+prisoner assured his excellency the judge that it really did not
+matter, the pain was better. "But," said the judge sympathetically,
+"it may come back." The barber was brought and told to examine the
+man's mouth. Finding no sign of decay, he assured the judge that the
+teeth were sound. The judge began to revile the dentist, saying,
+"You call yourself a dentist and do not know which is the tooth
+causing this man pain. Find it, and pull it out at once." Trembling,
+the dentist took his forceps and extracted a back tooth. "Let me see,"
+cried the judge. "Why, that is not rotten; what do you mean by pulling
+out a good tooth? Pull the rotten one out at once." Then the dentist
+again operated on his unwilling victim, and a second time the judge
+upbraided him for not drawing the right tooth, and ordered him to go
+on till he had found the one that was decayed. The wretched prisoner,
+feeling he could not bear to lose any more teeth, called out that it
+was all a lie: he never had had any toothache, and only drank brandy
+because he loved it, and promised never to touch it again. The judge
+smilingly bade his prisoner begone, warning him, however, that next
+time he offended all his teeth might have to come out.
+
+Closely associated with drinking is the gambling habit. This too,
+alas! is very prevalent in Mosul. In almost every house card-playing
+forms the chief pastime both in the hareem and amongst the men, and,
+as a rule, they play for money. Enormous sums of money are lost and
+won in this way, and, unfortunately, those in good positions are
+the ones who profit most by this gambling habit. One lady was the
+possessor of many beautiful jewels, diamonds, pearls, &c., and I was
+told that she had won them all by gambling.
+
+We are always very glad to take part in the social customs of the
+people when neither drinking nor gambling is part of the programme,
+and I, at least, certainly very much enjoy a dinner served a l'Arabe,
+with its attendant native entertainment. The after-dinner story-telling
+is very amusing when you have mastered the language sufficiently
+to be able to follow the drift of the tale. Shortly before leaving,
+we gave a farewell dinner to some of our friends, and, after dinner,
+entertained them with fireworks, while one of the guests amused us
+all by recounting stories, some of which were very interesting. One
+was as follows:--
+
+"There is a village near Mosul called Tel Kaif, in which all the
+inhabitants are Christians. They are a very original set of people,
+differing altogether from the Christians of Mosul in language,
+dress, and customs. They consider they are quite the most clever and
+important people under the sun, and this idea is apparent in all their
+actions. Many years ago there lived in Tel Kaif a very clever and
+wise man called Uncle Goro. If any one was in trouble he immediately
+went to this man for advice; if any were sorrowful, it was to Uncle
+Goro they looked for consolation; were any sick, again it was Uncle
+Goro alone who could heal them. In fact, Uncle Goro was looked upon
+by the admiring villagers as their one hope and stay in times of
+need. One day a cow belonging to the village felt very thirsty. Now,
+the water supply of Tel Kaif is not very good, the villagers being
+dependent upon a large pool of rain-water, which sometimes dries
+up during the long-continued season of drought. Doubtless this cow
+did not approve of drinking dirty rain-water, so, while seeking for
+other means of slaking her thirst, she espied near the doorway of a
+house a large earthen water-pot. Into this she looked longingly, but
+her horns at first prevented her from reaching the water. However,
+after a little careful manipulation and perseverance, she managed
+to insert her head into the jar. When she had satisfied her thirst,
+she tried to withdraw her head, but found she could not, so there it
+had to remain, while the bewildered villagers looked on in helpless
+astonishment. At last they decided to appeal to their wise man, so
+one went off in search of him. When he arrived on the spot and beheld
+the cow with her head in the water-jar, he considered thoughtfully
+for a while, and then gave his advice in the following learned manner.
+
+"Oh, my children," he cried, "here is such a simple matter, and yet
+you could not find a way out of the difficulty. I am surprised that
+my fellow-men should be so ignorant."
+
+Then they all crowded round Uncle Goro, beseeching him out of his
+great wisdom to tell them what to do.
+
+"First," said Uncle Goro, "you must cut off the cow's head, then
+break the water-pot and take out the head!"
+
+This brilliant suggestion was at once put into practice, the owner of
+the cow being the only one who was not quite so sure of the exceeding
+greatness of the wisdom of Uncle Goro. When the deed was accomplished
+and the head extricated from its awkward position, the old man stood
+and proudly addressed the assembled crowd who had flocked to hear
+his words of wisdom. "My beloved children," said he, "a day will come
+when your old Uncle Goro will die, and then what will you do when you
+have no one to settle such difficult matters as these for you? Pray to
+God that your Uncle Goro may long be spared to advise and counsel you."
+
+A rather pretty custom exists in Mosul which gives people titles
+according to their work, or any special characteristics belonging
+to them. For example, the butcher is called "the father of meat";
+the baker, "the father of bread." In the hospital, when I am giving
+orders for the diet list, we hardly ever speak of the patients by name,
+but according to their disease, as "Aboo" (father) liver abscess,
+"Aboo-mai-abiyud" (father of cataract). One of the assistants in
+the hospital was named "The Angel of Death" by a poor little girl
+who was brought to the doctor a mass of burns. It was the duty of
+this assistant to dress the terrible wounds of the child every day,
+and though as gentle as a woman, he necessarily pained her a great
+deal--hence the term "Angel of Death." The women are designated in
+the same way as the men, only substituting "mother" for "father," as
+"Em haleeb," milk-woman; "Em saba' saba'een," mother of seventy-seven
+(or centipede), this last simply referring to a girl suffering from
+hysteria.
+
+This was an interesting case which was in the women's hospital for some
+weeks. The patient was a young woman about sixteen years of age. She
+was under the delusion that she had swallowed a "saba' saba'een"
+(a horny centipede, measuring some seven or eight inches, common
+in Mosul). She declared she could not eat anything, for every time
+she swallowed, the saba' saba'een opened its mouth and ate the food
+just partaken of! She absolutely refused to touch anything of her own
+accord, so we had to force food down her throat. Two or three women
+would hold her hands and feet while I fed her with a spoon. As time
+went on she became worse instead of better, and was always beseeching
+my husband to operate on her and take out the saba' saba'een. After
+a time he consented to give her an anaesthetic and operate. On the day
+appointed she was taken to the theatre and given a whiff of chloroform,
+while the doctor made a slight incision in her skin. This was stitched
+up, and she was shown her wound and assured that the doctor had cut
+her and found nothing. After this she was much happier, and was soon
+well enough to leave the hospital.
+
+Women never know their age in Mosul. On dispensary days each woman is
+required to give her name and age. The first difficulty is over the
+name. Many do not know their surnames at all. When asked, "What is your
+father's name?" they say, "How do I know?" and then add with a laugh,
+"Say Bint Abdulla" (daughter of a servant of God). Abdulla is often
+a very convenient name when the parentage is uncertain.
+
+With regard to their age, women are quite hopeless. I have often
+seen an old lady, bent double with the weight of many years, come
+into the dispensary.
+
+"Well, mother, how old are you?" I ask her.
+
+"How old am I? How do I know, my daughter?"
+
+"Do you think you are fifteen?"
+
+"Well, I may be."
+
+"Are you twenty yet?"
+
+"Perhaps I am," replies the fair damsel of eighty. "I know I was born
+two years before the year that the locusts ate all the corn."
+
+As to how many years ago the locusts destroyed the crop she has not
+the remotest idea.
+
+Or another woman will come, certainly not more than twenty or
+twenty-five, the mother of a baby in arms. On being asked her age
+she replies, "About sixty"! The natives never have any idea when
+their birthdays are, but keep their name-days instead. Thus amongst
+the Christians all Johns will keep the feast of St. John as their
+feast-day, and so on.
+
+Parents have a convenient way of forgetting the date of the birth
+of their daughters. A girl who is not betrothed will remain twelve
+or thirteen for much more than one year; for when she has passed
+fourteen or fifteen years she is no longer considered young, and not
+very likely to be betrothed at all if her real age is known.
+
+The natives of Mosul are very superstitious; more especially, perhaps,
+is this true of the women. One curious superstition they have with
+regard to scent. Now an odour which is filthy and dangerous, such
+as may be felt in most of the houses, is not at all injurious from
+their standpoint, but a sweet-smelling scent is an abomination to
+the women. If by any chance I have been using anything in the way of
+scent (though as a rule I am very careful not to), the first thing
+I see on entering a room is that the women all immediately apply
+their handkerchiefs to their olfactory organs. At first this custom
+appears, to say the least, not too polite; but when you realise   \
+what it means to them, you understand and excuse them. They firmly
+believe that a sweet smell brings sickness and sorrow--that it is
+equally fatal to mothers and young children--hence the great fear of
+anything in the way of scent. One day our reception-room was full of
+women who had come to visit me. Suddenly a visitor was announced (a
+native of the country, but not of Mosul); immediately all the women
+crowded into one corner, burying their heads in their chuddars. I
+could not make out what had disturbed them till I discovered that
+the new-comer was strongly scented. She was left severely alone by
+all the others, who kept as far away as possible from her, some even
+leaving the room, fearing lest evil should overtake them.
+
+Another day I went to visit a little patient of my husband's in whom
+he took a great interest. This little boy was the spoilt darling of
+his parents, the father especially idolising him, watching over him
+carefully lest any harm should befall him. Great was his consternation
+and distress when it was found that an operation was necessary to save
+the life of the boy. When the little chap was convalescent I went
+to see him. After talking to the mother some time in another room,
+she suggested our going to see the boy. No sooner had I appeared at
+the threshold of the door, when the boy buried his face in his hands,
+calling out, "Oh, you smell, you smell!" I assured both the mother
+and the boy that I had no scent of any kind on me, but the boy would
+not be pacified, and continued crying out, "Go away--you smell!" As
+he was still weak, I thought I had better depart, as excitement was
+bad for him. When visiting amongst the women it is better not to use
+scented soap, as they detect even that sometimes!
+
+Birds have a good many superstitions connected with them. Last year,
+while we were waiting for the decision of our committee regarding
+the future of the mission in Mosul, some women informed me that "good
+news was coming." Good news meant to them that the Mission was to be
+kept on. On asking how they knew, they told me they had just heard
+a bird singing which is supposed never to raise his voice except as
+the harbinger of good tidings. Storks are looked upon as omens of good
+luck. These birds return every spring to Mosul, hatch their eggs, and
+migrate in early autumn. The natives of Mosul always hail their return
+with great joy, especially if they nest on their roofs. Some will even
+go so far as to put baskets on the roofs, hoping that the storks will
+be attracted by them and make them their home for the summer. They
+agree with Longfellow in his love of storks, as expressed in his poem--
+
+
+              "By God in heaven
+        As a blessing, the dear white stork was given."
+
+
+If there had been any truth in this superstition, we ought to have been
+very prosperous; for at one time we had no less than three families
+of storks on our roof. Personally I think they are not altogether
+too desirable, for when sleeping on the roof they are apt to become
+very noisy companions. I do not think I like to be laughed at by
+these birds. In the early morning they stand close by one's bed,
+throw back their heads till they rest on their backs, and then laugh
+aloud at the idea of any one sleeping when once dawn has appeared.
+
+The common name for storks in Mosul is "the thieves," as they
+sometimes steal small articles of clothing hanging out to dry, such as
+handkerchiefs; and no one would ever dare to go to the nest to hunt,
+lest they should disturb the birds and cause them to fly away. These
+birds are rather a convenience sometimes for the washerwoman: when
+blouses disappear it is easy to lay the blame on the "thieves." They
+are almost as useful as the proverbial "cat."
+
+Our servant Judy is a little woman full of queer superstitious
+ideas. While in Mosul I received the sad news of the death of my
+father: poor Judy was so distressed lest by over-much mourning I
+should tempt God to take my husband too. As dressmaking is rather
+primitive in Mosul I decided to have some things dyed black. Judy
+would not hear of such a thing, saying that only widows must wear
+dyed clothes, and that if I wore dyed dresses for my father, she was
+sure something would happen to my husband.
+
+Another thing she never would do, and that is to step over our feet! In
+the summer evenings we used to sit in our verandah, which was rather
+narrow, and if by chance we should place our feet on a hassock in
+front of us there remained no room for any one to pass. I could not
+make out why Judy would never pass that way when it was necessary to
+enter the room at our back. At last she told me that if she stepped
+over our feet, she would be in danger of "cutting our life," and that
+if we died it would be her fault. After this I often tried to make
+her step over my feet, by blocking her pathway, but she never would,
+so strong was her belief that by so doing she would cut short my life!
+
+It is surprising how ignorantly superstitious some of the better-class
+people are. A wife of a very wealthy Christian merchant in Mosul had
+a child who suffered terribly from sore eyes. She brought him to the
+dispensary for some time, but finding that the treatment pained the
+child and made him cry, ceased to bring him. We heard afterwards that
+she had resorted to the following superstitious method of healing.
+
+A sheep was bought, killed, and opened: while the blood was still hot
+the head of the child was inserted into the middle of the sheep's body
+and allowed to remain there about fifteen minutes. Could any treatment
+be more revolting and disgusting than this? and yet these people,
+rich and influential members of Mosul society, really believed that by
+doing this their child's eyes would be cured. Needless to say it had
+not the desired effect, and months afterwards they again brought the
+child to the dispensary, and having learnt their lesson by experience,
+were content to leave the child in the English hakim's hands, with
+the result that after a couple of months' daily treatment the eyes
+were quite healed.
+
+I do not know what virtue is supposed to exist in the killing of the
+sheep or goat, but it is a custom very much in vogue in Mosul. On
+our return from Beyrout, after having been absent three months, a
+live goat was brought out into the desert to meet us, and the moment
+we alighted from our carriage this poor creature was slaughtered
+right under our eyes. In Persia the custom amongst the Armenians at
+a wedding feast was for a sheep to be killed just as the bride and
+bridegroom were stepping over the threshold of their new home. It
+was not considered lucky if the bride did not put her foot into the
+blood as she passed. In Mosul, too, I believe a sheep is sometimes
+slaughtered at weddings in this way, but I have never seen it done.
+
+When a wife is desirous of becoming a mother, there are various
+superstitious methods to which she may resort, but perhaps the
+favourite one of all is that connected with Sheikh Matti. This is a
+monastery situated some twelve hours' ride from Mosul, on the side
+of a lonely mountain. The woman makes a pilgrimage to this place,
+and is then told that she must spend a night in the solitary chapel
+there. While she sleeps an angel will visit the building, and if her
+request is to be vouchsafed her, will place an apple by her head. If
+the angel desires to be especially kind to the woman, he will place
+two, or even three apples near her, the number of apples indicating
+how many children God is going to honour her with. Strange to say,
+these angel visits do not take place unless provoked by a fair amount
+of backsheesh!
+
+There are a good many superstitions regarding medical treatment of
+diseases and accidents, but these, I believe, are fast dying out in
+the face of European learning and skill. The people are learning by
+experience how much better are the English methods than their own. For
+instance, it used to be the common custom for those suffering from
+fever to go to the mullah, who would lay his hands on the patient's
+head while reading a few verses from the Koran. If the fever did not
+go at once, well, it was the fault of the fever, not of the mullah. I
+fancy fever patients are beginning to prefer English medicines rather
+than to trust to the laying on of hands by the mullah. When any one has
+been bitten by a mad dog, which, considering the number of street dogs,
+is of very rare occurrence, he goes at once to a sheikh, who will give
+him an antidote. This consists of a date from which the stone has been
+taken, and into which the sheikh has spat two or three times to fill up
+the gap caused by the removal of the stone. Upon eating this, the man
+is supposed to be free from all fear of the development of hydrophobia.
+
+These are merely a few of the superstitious customs found in Mosul
+to-day. Had we time or space they might be multiplied many times over,
+but enough, I trust, has been said to awaken love and sympathy in our
+hearts for these simple folk, whose minds are so easily influenced
+and guided by these useless and often degrading
+
+
+                    "Heart-chilling superstitions, which can glaze
+                    Even Pity's eye with her own frozen tears."
+
+                                                              Coleridge.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+THE YEZIDEES
+
+    Gratitude to the English--Persecutions--"Devil-worshippers"--Sun
+    and fire worship--Priesthood--A visit to Sheikh Adi--Peacock
+    wands--A sacred shrine.
+
+
+                           "Whoever thou art, if thy need be great,
+                            In the Name of God, the Compassionate
+                            And All-Merciful One--
+                                For Thee I wait."
+
+                                                               Whittier.
+
+
+The Yezidees, or, as they are commonly called, "devil-worshippers,"
+are a very remarkable tribe living in the near vicinity of Mosul. Very
+little is really known as to their religious beliefs, and whether
+they worship the devil or only fear him, has never yet been discovered
+by Europeans.
+
+These curious people are very favourably disposed towards the English,
+as many years ago the British representative in Mosul was able
+to assist them very materially. The Mohammedans have always been
+very bitter against this people, and have done all in their power
+to exterminate them. A former Pasha at one time captured the high
+priest of the Yezidees, whose name was Sheikh Naser; he somehow
+managed to escape, substituting in his place a priest under him
+in authority. The priest never revealed this fact, and bore with
+resignation the tortures and imprisonment inflicted upon him. The
+Yezidees applied to Mr. Rassam, who was the British Vice-Consul at
+Mosul, and he obtained the release of the priest by paying a large
+sum as ransom money. This debt was faithfully repaid, and since that
+time the Yezidees have cherished very grateful memories of the English.
+
+Many years ago these Yezidees were a very powerful tribe. They had
+two principal strongholds, one in the mountains lying to the west of
+Mosul, and the other only twenty-four hours' journey to the north. By
+means of continual attacks and massacres at the hands of the Kurds,
+their population has been reduced considerably, only about one-third
+remaining of their original number.
+
+Mohammedans are always very bitter against any sect which is supposed
+to have no "Book." The Yezidees, coming under this category, receive
+little mercy from them, and for centuries have been exposed to
+persecutions from these their oppressors. Of late years the Yezidees
+have seen the uselessness of rebelling against their fate, and,
+acknowledging their defeat, are patiently bearing their misfortunes.
+
+These so-called devil-worshippers recognise one Supreme Being, but
+apparently do not offer any prayers directly to Him. The name of God
+is often on their lips in the form of oaths, but that of the evil
+spirit is never to be heard. So far do they carry this superstition,
+that not only will they not use the word Shaitan (Satan), but any
+word beginning with "sh" is also shunned by them. Then, again, such
+a veneration have they for Satan, that it is prohibited amongst the
+Yezidees to utter any word containing the letter sh (shin), being
+the first letter of the Arabic word for Satan. Thus they have to
+find other words to express such commonly spoken of objects as the
+sun, river, water-melon, &c., as they each begin with the prohibited
+letter. Layard, in his Travels amongst them, tells of one instance
+illustrating this superstition. He was standing in the midst of a
+large crowd of Yezidees gathered to take part in their yearly feast,
+when he espied a boy climbing a tree at the apparent risk of his
+neck. He says, "As I looked up I saw the impending danger, and made an
+effort by an appeal to the chief to avert it. 'If that young Sheit--'
+I exclaimed, about to use an epithet generally applied in the East
+to such adventurous youths. I checked myself immediately, but it
+was too late; half the dreaded word had escaped." He goes on to say
+that the effect was instantaneous, a look of horror spreading over
+the faces of all present. Fortunately for him, he was a favourite
+amongst the Yezidees, and so they allowed it to pass. So great is
+the horror of this letter, that they have often killed those who
+use it wilfully. When speaking of the devil they do so reverently,
+calling him the "mighty angel."
+
+The symbol of their religion is the "Malek el Taous," a peacock, and is
+held in great reverence by them. Satan is said to be the head of the
+angelic host, and he is supplied with seven archangels, who minister
+to him and exercise great influence over the world; they are Gabriel,
+Michael, Raphael, Azrail, Dedrail, Azrapheel, and Shemkeel. Our Lord
+is also counted amongst the angels, though not one of these seven,
+and is acknowledged to have taken upon Himself the form of man. They,
+in common with the Mohammedans, do not believe in His crucifixion; but
+declare that He ascended to heaven just before that event took place,
+some saying that the angel Gabriel took our Lord's place on the Cross,
+while others say Judas was the real victim. They are looking forward
+to the second coming of Christ and also to the reappearance of the
+Imam; this latter being also the Mohammedan's hope. Their patron
+saint is one called Sheikh Adi, who is supposed to have lived many
+years before Mohammed; but very little is known of his history.
+
+They reverence the sun, and are in the habit of kissing the object on
+which its first rays fall. Fire as a symbol is also connected with
+their worship, the disciples frequently passing their hands through
+the flame, kissing them, and then rubbing them over their faces. They
+have four orders of priesthood, which is hereditary, and consists of
+the Pirs, Sheikhs, Cawals, and the Fakirs.
+
+The Pirs (from a Persian word meaning old man) are the most reverenced
+next to their great sheikh or head of the sect. These are believed to
+possess the power not only of interceding for their adherents, but also
+of curing disease and insanity. They are supposed to lead a life of
+great sanctity, and are in consequence much looked up to by the people.
+
+The Sheikhs come next in order of rank. These are supposed to know a
+little Arabic, as their work is to write the hymns which are chanted
+at their religious services. They guard the tomb of Sheikh Adi,
+bring fuel to keep up the holy fire, and provisions to those who
+dwell within the shrine.
+
+The third rank of priesthood is perhaps the most active of all. These
+are called Cawals or preachers, and it is their duty to go from
+village to village teaching the doctrines of the Yezidees. They are all
+musicians, being taught to sing when very young; they also perform on
+the flute and tambourine, both of these instruments being looked upon
+as holy. Before and after playing they often kiss their instruments,
+and pass them to the audience for them to do likewise. They dress as
+a rule in white and wear black turbans, while the sheikhs always wear
+nothing but white. They are generally venerable-looking men with long
+beards. They act as emissaries for the sheikh, and yearly go forth
+and collect the revenues. Their emblem of office is a wand, on the top
+of which is perched a brazen peacock, and they boast with pride that
+never have their enemies been able to capture one of these staves. They
+relate how on one memorable occasion a priest, being chased through
+the desert by Arabs, in the heat of the pursuit stopped his mare,
+descended, and buried the precious badge of office; then, marking the
+exact site for future reference, resumed his flight. Having escaped
+with his life, six months later he managed to recover the buried staff,
+creeping down by night into the desert from his mountain shelter. Now
+why should they place such a high value on these emblems? A possible
+solution was given me by the Rev. Dr. St. Clair Tisdall, who recalled
+to my mind an old Mohammedan tradition that it was the peacock who
+admitted Satan into the garden of Eden. This would strengthen the
+suspicion that the Yezidees really do worship the evil one.
+
+The lowest order in the priesthood are called Fakirs. These wear coarse
+dresses of black or dark-brown canvas, which reach only as far as the
+knees. Their office is to perform all the menial work connected with
+the tomb of Sheikh Adi, sweeping and cleaning the sacred buildings,
+trimming and lighting the holy lamps. These lamps are offerings made
+by pilgrims who have visited the tomb in times of danger or sickness.
+
+A yearly sum is subscribed for the oil necessary for the lamps and
+for the support of the priests. At sunset each evening these lamps
+are lit, and give the appearance of a multitude of stars glittering
+on the side of the mountain; for not only are the lamps placed in the
+shrine and walls of the courtyard, but they are also scattered about on
+rocks and ledges and in the dark corners of the woods. As the priest
+goes from lamp to lamp lighting each one, men and women pass their
+hands through the flame and smear their foreheads, and those who have
+children do the same to them. This reverence for fire reminds one of
+the Parsees of Persia, whom these people in many ways resemble.
+
+Unfortunately I was unable to visit these interesting villages,
+but I hope to do so on a future occasion. We had intended to spend
+a month amongst them during the summer of 1906, the sheikh having
+extended a cordial invitation to us. My husband accordingly went up to
+reconnoitre, and see if there was any place possible either to stay in
+or to pitch our tent. He found, however, that it was hardly a suitable
+place for a summer holiday, as the climate was not very satisfactory,
+besides which it was difficult to find a place for the tents; so we
+decided we would not go that year at any rate. Both my husband and the
+men with him were quite ill for a few hours after visiting Sheikh Adi,
+so they were not anxious to return. The natives say that this illness
+is caused by drinking the water, but that the effect passes off after
+a few days, when one has become accustomed to the water.
+
+My husband, however, much enjoyed his visit amongst these strange
+people, and in writing of that time he says:--
+
+"These interesting people dwell in the mountains round about Mosul,
+the ancient Nineveh. They are ruled over by a sheikh, who claims
+to be able to put some ten thousand armed horsemen in the field. On
+account of their suspected devil-worship they are detested by Moslems
+and Christians alike. The Turks have more than once endeavoured
+to exterminate them; but, entrenched in their mountain fastnesses,
+they are very hard to overcome.
+
+"When in Mosul their sheikh called on me and asked me to pay him a
+visit up in his mountain home. Thus I was able to see their homes
+for myself, also the sacred shrine, hidden away in the mountains,
+where their reputed founder (Sheikh Adi) lies buried, from whom it
+derives its name.
+
+"The Yezidees, like the Druses of Mount Lebanon, are very reluctant to
+discuss their religion, and it is said that death is the penalty for
+any one among them who reveals the truth concerning what they worship.
+
+"On paying a visit to their sacred shrine (Sheikh Adi), I found it
+hidden in the hollow of thickly-wooded mountains, and composed of
+two large compounds, the inner compound containing the shrine in
+a church-like building with a newly-built steeple. On the right
+side of the entrance porch is the figure of a huge serpent graven
+in the stone of the building, with its head uppermost. This serpent
+is kept blackened daily with charcoal by the two or three old monks
+who live in the shrine. Upon inquiring the meaning of this symbol,
+the monk told me it was graven there to remind the worshippers to
+remove their sandals from off their feet, as the ground around the
+shrine is holy. If any should be careless or wicked enough to disobey,
+it was said that they would be bitten on the heels by some of the
+snakes that were said to infest the place.
+
+"The steeple rises immediately from the room in the church that once
+contained the body of their founder, Sheikh Adi. This sheikh was a
+great Mohammedan teacher who many centuries ago used to preach and
+teach in Damascus. He gathered around him many disciples, and it
+is said he was accustomed to vary the monotony of his teaching by
+drawing a circle on the ground, and, placing therein himself and some
+favourite disciple, would enable the latter to hear and understand
+the teaching of another famous mullah speaking in far-away Baghdad.
+
+"This Sheikh Adi some years before his death retired to this place
+in the mountains, two days' journey from Mosul, and there he was
+visited by many, as his fame spread abroad, and in this place he died
+and was buried. The Yezidees claim that, ere he died, he forsook
+Mohammedanism and instituted a new religion. The Moslems, however,
+reverence his memory, and say that the Yezidees, after his death,
+started a new religion of their own.
+
+"In the church there was to be seen a pool of water, said by them to be
+used as a baptistery, and little else but bare walls. My guide assured
+me it used to look very different, but fifteen years previously the
+Turks had captured the place and destroyed all they could lay hands
+on. On the roof near the steeple are two stones, facing east and west,
+said to be used as prayer-stones, the Yezidees praying as the first
+ray of the rising sun appears, and as the last ray of the setting
+sun departs, and use these stones as indicators. This, again, is
+interesting, as (according to Dr. Tisdall) it is a curious fact that
+Mohammedan tradition avers that it is alone at these two times daily
+that the devil has power to intercept the prayers of the faithful, and
+they are, therefore, to be scrupulously avoided by all true Moslems.
+
+"The Yezidees are loath to venture into the city, but a few have
+already commenced to attend the Mission Dispensary. They are easily
+recognised by their costume, and by the fact that no Yezidee is allowed
+to wear any garment exposing the breast. One of these patients informed
+me that when he wanted to worship he went to the priest (cawal),
+paid him a small fee, and was placed in a small room, the filthier
+the better, and made to sit on the floor. The priest would then sit
+in front of him and make him imagine himself to be in Paradise (the
+Eastern idea of Paradise--lovely garden, flowing stream, trees laden
+with fruit, houris, &c.). If (and it is a big 'if') his statement
+was true, it would point to their priests having some knowledge of
+hypnotism, but the Yezidees will say anything to mislead an inquirer.
+
+"We had a little Yezidee boy in hospital with his mother. He had
+been successfully operated upon for stone, but developed jaundice
+and gradually sank. One evening, ere his mother took him back to
+her village, a message was brought to us imploring my wife and me to
+wash our hands in the water our servant brought us; the same water
+was then to be given by the Yezidee mother to her dying boy that he
+might drink and live!
+
+"One longs to be able to tell them of Him who is the Water of Life: but
+they have a language of their own, and understand but little Arabic.
+
+"Will not my readers pray that the Mosul Mission may be strengthened
+and properly equipped; that the Gospel may be preached to these poor
+Yezidees, as well as to their Mohammedan neighbours; and that they
+may learn to love Him who alone has power to cast out devils?"
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+TRAVELLING IN THE DESERT
+
+    Monotony of desert travelling--A puppy and a
+    kitten--Tragedy--Accident by the river Euphrates--Riots in
+    Mosul--Robberies and murder excited by love of gold.
+
+
+                       "Of moving accidents by flood and field,
+                        Of hairbreadth 'scapes....
+                        The shot of accident, nor dart of chance
+                        Could neither graze nor pierce...."
+
+                                                            Shakespeare.
+
+
+Travelling in the desert is apt to become rather monotonous when
+each day goes by with nothing to mark it from the preceding one,
+so that when some event out of the common does take place it is
+quite exhilarating. For instance, once during our mid-day halt,
+which happened to be on the site of a newly-deserted Arab encampment,
+we heard a cry, and looking about found a wee puppy about two days
+old. This puppy afforded us amusement for at least two days, much
+to the amazement of our muleteers. We wrapped it in flannel, placed
+it in the sunshine to try and instil some warmth into its chilly
+body, and presently we had the satisfaction of hearing its wailing
+gradually cease as the sunshine penetrated the flannel. We managed
+to keep life in the poor little beast for two or three days, but,
+as milk is scarce in the desert, it was impossible to feed it properly.
+
+One evening we arrived at an Arab encampment, and thought it would
+be kinder to leave the poor puppy with one of the Arabs, who are
+supposed to be fond of dogs. So we persuaded our servant to take the
+puppy and deposit it in one of the tents. He did so very reluctantly,
+thinking he might be shot at for venturing near after dusk. However,
+he crept up quietly and placed the puppy just inside one of the
+tents. Immediately the owner demanded who was there, but Aboo (our
+servant) fled without waiting to answer. We heard the Arab using
+some strong language, and then, catching sight of the poor puppy,
+he took it up and threw it out into the desert. We could hear the
+little thing squealing and crying, so my husband went to rescue it
+once more from an untimely end. He found it on top of a rubbish heap,
+brought it back to our tent, and we tried again to warm and soothe
+it. The next day, however, the little spark of remaining life was
+quenched. So the short story of this little forsaken waif ended in a
+sad tragedy, and my husband undertook the dismal duty of committing
+its body to the deep waters of the river.
+
+Another day one of our escort galloped up with great excitement to
+show us a kitten he had just found in the desert--the poor little
+mite was so thankful to see a human being again, and had evidently
+been left behind in much the same manner as the puppy when the Arab
+tribe was migrating.
+
+These are small episodes of the desert which help to break the
+monotony. I may perhaps be allowed to misquote the well-known lines
+of S. Gregory:--
+
+
+            "A little thing is a little thing,
+            But 'excitement' in little things
+            Is a great thing"--in the desert.
+
+
+On one occasion we passed an Arab lying on his back and covered with
+his aba, the native cloak worn by all classes. We heard afterwards that
+it was a case of murder; that the man had been dead three days, and
+only then had been found by his sons, who were out searching for their
+father. Hastily covering him with one of their cloaks, they had rushed
+off to try and find the murderer and avenge their father's blood. We
+met them soon afterwards, and they told the whole story to our escort.
+
+In the preceding chapters we have seen how often the cry of "Wolf,
+wolf!" was raised when there was no wolf, till we began to think that
+the much-talked-of robbers of the desert did not exist at all, or, if
+they did exist, would not dare to touch a European caravan. However,
+we soon learnt to our cost that this was not the case.
+
+Two years ago we were travelling from Mosul to Aleppo, and had almost
+reached our destination when we met with the following adventure.
+
+Having reached the end of our stage one day, we had encamped within
+a stone's throw of the river Euphrates, just outside the town of
+Beridjik. Our tent was pitched beneath a lovely spreading tree,
+under which ran a sparkling stream on its way from the mountains
+to the river. We thought what an ideal camping-ground it made, and
+apparently the same thought entered the minds of some others, only from
+a different standpoint. All round us were signs of the industry of
+the villagers in the form of huge stacks of corn freshly reaped, now
+waiting for the threshing time to begin. Ere we retired for the night
+we were strolling by the stream and amongst the corn, where we noticed
+two men sitting in the field, who gave us the evening salutations as
+we passed by. We did not attribute any importance to this fact, as it
+is not unusual for the villagers to set watchmen to guard their corn
+during harvest time and afterwards, till the grain is safely housed.
+
+So, committing ourselves to the care of Him who never slumbers or
+sleeps, we retired to our tent, hoping for a good night's rest to
+prepare us for the journey of the morrow. Our "ideal camping-ground"
+I found to have at least one great disadvantage--a disadvantage
+common to all grounds which are used by flocks of goats and sheep for
+their resting-places. That night these "pilgrims of the desert" were
+particularly active, and gave me no peace or chance of sleep till the
+early hours of the morning; then at last, worn-out with the unequal
+warfare, I fell asleep. I could not have been sleeping long when I
+was awakened by a movement on the part of my camp bedstead. Sleepily
+I decided in my mind that our donkey had loosened his tether and was
+trying to pay us a friendly visit. Often in the night some animal would
+get loose, and rub himself against our tent ropes till he had succeeded
+in rooting up one peg, when he would go and practise on another.
+Thinking this was the case now I promptly fell asleep again, only
+to be reawakened in a short time by the same sensation. This time I
+was quite awake, and in an instant flashed my electric torch round
+the tent, just in time to see a man decamping by the door. I roused
+my husband (whose sleep is never disturbed by pilgrims of the night),
+and told him what had happened. He immediately rushed out and gave the
+alarm to the camp. Unfortunately it was a very dark night, and nothing
+could be seen a yard ahead, so the robbers had ample opportunity for
+beating a retreat. Our tent was some little way from the village, so
+my husband returned to the tent to put on some more garments before
+going to interview the head-man of the village, who is always supposed
+to be responsible for the safety of caravans. When he came to look
+for his clothes, the only article he could find was one shoe, the
+thieves having cleared the tent of everything available, even to our
+tooth-brushes! Not only did they clear off everything from the tent,
+but also emptied a large box which was standing outside the tent,
+and also took a large valise containing my husband's portmanteau
+and my "hold-all." Had they been content with these, we should never
+have known of their nocturnal visit till the morning; but in their
+desire to secure the small carpet which lay in the middle of the tent,
+they awoke me, hence the movement of my bed which twice disturbed my
+sleep. We felt there was nothing to be done till daybreak, so retired
+once more to rest.
+
+As soon as dawn appeared some of the caravan party rode off in
+different directions to see if they could find any trace of the
+thieves, but of course they had disappeared long ago under cover of the
+darkness. The search party, however, brought back a few garments picked
+up along the road, which the thieves had evidently dropped in their
+hurry when the alarm was given. Our escort, a soldier from Beridjik,
+was sent back to the town to notify the Government officials of the
+robbery. In a short time the governor of the place rode out with six
+or seven other officials, all evidently much disturbed in their minds
+lest they should get into disgrace for allowing any harm to come to
+a European caravan. The first thing the governor did was to send for
+the head-man of the village and have him bound and beaten. I was so
+sorry for the poor man, who had a flowing white beard. I could not
+bear to witness his beating, so retired to the tent, and tried to shut
+out the sound as well as the sight of the old man's sufferings. As
+a matter of fact I do not think the beating was a very severe one,
+but the victim made the most of it.
+
+This proving of no avail, they all set out for the neighbouring
+villages, and spent the whole of that day and the next scouring the
+country for the thieves, returning each day at sunset and renewing
+the search early next morning. My husband accompanied them the
+first day, and was very much amused by the behaviour of some of the
+villagers at sight of the officials. At some villages they would find
+nothing but women, the men all having fled at the news that soldiers
+were coming. They found plenty of other stolen goods buried in the
+ground of the huts, but none of our belongings. In one village a man
+confidentially whispered to one of the soldiers that he knew where
+the stolen goods were. On being told to lead the way to the place,
+he led them all to a large field in which were some hundred or more
+large corn-stacks, and said that the goods were in one of those. I
+expect he much enjoyed his little joke, for after turning over a dozen
+or so of these ricks under the scorching sun, the soldiers gave up
+the task as hopeless. All efforts proving unavailing, we had perforce
+to proceed on our journey, managing as best we could till we reached
+Aleppo, where we were able to replenish that which was most lacking
+in our wardrobe. The fame of our adventure preceded us to Jerusalem,
+where a month or two later we heard a most exaggerated account of
+our state when we entered Aleppo.
+
+My husband went at once to our consul on reaching Aleppo, laying
+before him the whole story. Fortunately for us, Mr. Longworth was
+a most energetic and painstaking man, having great influence with
+the Government officials. He asked us to write out an estimate of
+our losses, which he presented to the Vali, assuring us he would
+either make the Government pay full compensation or produce the lost
+goods. After six months of endless work and worry, Mr. Longworth sent
+my husband a telegram saying that compensation to the full amount had
+been given. We were very thankful to our consul for his unceasing
+energy in the matter, and sent him our very grateful thanks. Thus
+happily ended No. 1 of our chapter of accidents. When we think of what
+"might have been" that night with those wild men of the desert in our
+tent while we were sleeping, our hearts go up with great thankfulness
+to God, who ever watches over His children, and who can keep them as
+safely in the deserts of Mesopotamia as in the homeland.
+
+The two men we had noticed sitting amongst the corn had probably been
+hired for the purpose of robbing us, but the real culprit was suspected
+afterwards to have been one of the leading men of Beridjik--in fact
+we were told that he was a member of the "town council." Doubtless he
+wished to procure for himself and his hareem some European clothing,
+without the expense of buying it.
+
+Another peril from which in God's mercy we were delivered had its
+origin in Mosul.
+
+The Vali, in obedience to orders from Constantinople, endeavoured to
+register every woman in Mosul. To accomplish this it was necessary
+to find out the number and "write" a list of every woman in each
+house. Moslems and Christians alike rose in revolt at the idea of
+their women being "written," as it appeared to them contrary to
+all the laws of God and Mohammed that such a thing should be. The
+whole town was in an uproar, the shops were shut, no business was
+done in the sook (bazaar), and men congregated everywhere, talking
+angrily and making ugly threats. This went on for five days; such a
+thing had never been known before. Sometimes, in times of trouble,
+work has been suspended for three days, but no one could remember
+the sook being shut for such a length of time as five days.
+
+The Christians began to be very much alarmed for their safety, as it
+was rumoured that, unless the Vali gave way, at the expiration of the
+fifth day a general massacre of Christians would take place. The French
+convent was guarded by soldiers; our agent wired to the Consul-General
+at Baghdad for a like guard for the English, which happily, however,
+was not needed. When my husband was in the house I did not feel at
+all nervous, but if he was called out to see a patient after dark I
+certainly felt very anxious till he returned; for all around us was
+heard the continual firing of guns and pistols, and I pictured to
+myself the possibilities and probabilities of some of those stray
+bullets. "Alhamd'llillah!" nothing happened, and we realised again
+once more that the traveller's God is able to keep, as expressed in
+those incomparable words commonly known as the Traveller's Psalm.
+
+On the evening of the fifth day the governor recalled his order for
+the names of the women to be written, and all was quiet once more,
+at least outwardly. For some time, however, a feeling of unrest was
+abroad, several murders taking place that week, one of which still
+remains wrapt in mystery. A Moslem enticed a Jew into the country on
+the pretext of having some work for him to do; he then made the man dig
+a grave; after which he stabbed him, and threw the body into the grave
+made by the victim's own hands. The reason of the murder is unknown.
+
+One evening we were having dinner, when in rushed my husband's
+chief assistant, in a great state of excitement, to say that his
+brother had been stabbed in the sook, and they had brought him to
+our outer compound. My husband immediately went out and found the
+young man with a wound in his thigh.  Had it been a little higher
+up the result would probably have been fatal, but happily it was
+a comparatively trivial wound, and a few stitches and a week's rest
+soon put him right again; but naturally Daoud (the name of the victim)
+was very much alarmed, and it was some time before he quite recovered
+his nerve and could walk through that sook again. It seemed such an
+absolutely meaningless assault, that we could only hope it was a case
+of mistaken identity. Daoud had been an assistant for over a year,
+and as far as he knew had not a single enemy in the town.
+
+Matters of private dispute and jealousy are often settled by means
+of the revolver. An Armenian doctor, a short time ago, was shot when
+riding home from visiting a case. He was passing under a dark archway,
+when suddenly he heard bullets whizzing and became aware that he was
+the target. His horse was so badly hit that he was afraid it could
+not recover, but fortunately he himself escaped with only a slight
+graze or two. He attributed the motive of this attack to private
+grudges borne against him by some of his professional brethren.
+
+There is in Mosul an Armenian woman, whose husband was a doctor who
+had been celebrated for one special kind of operation. On his death
+his widow thought she might as well continue her husband's practice,
+as she had often assisted him with the operations. Accordingly she
+set herself up amongst the many quack doctors of Mosul. Many of her
+operations were successful, while the results of a still greater
+number remain in obscurity. Her charges were tremendous; no matter
+how poor her patient, she would do nothing till a very large fee
+had been paid. In this way she made a rich harvest while no European
+doctor was in the city, but after our arrival I am afraid her income
+was considerably lessened. Upon our departure from Mosul I imagine
+she again started her lucrative profession of grinding money out of
+the poor, for we heard not long ago that she had been stabbed five
+times while walking in the streets one evening.
+
+Robberies are very common in Mosul. Almost every evening may be heard
+on all hands sounds of shooting, telling of houses being visited by
+robbers. Fortunately, so far, they have not favoured us with a visit,
+and I sincerely hope they never will. One evening we were sitting
+quietly in the verandah when a woman came rushing in from the women's
+hospital compound, saying that there were three men on the roof. We
+all rushed out, armed with anything we could lay hands on, and made
+a dash for the roof on which the men had been seen, but no sign of
+them could be found. One of our servants climbed on to the top of
+the wall connecting our house with our neighbour's, flashing his
+lantern all round in his endeavours to see any trace of the supposed
+thieves. Excited voices were at once heard asking "Who is there?" "Why
+do you throw a light here?" &c.; and the lantern-bearer found to his
+horror that he was illuminating with his lamp the whole of the hareem
+of our next-door neighbour, who were all sleeping on the roof, the
+time being summer. His descent was much quicker than his ascent, as
+he was in deadly fear of being shot by the irate owner of the hareem.
+
+As a rule thieves only think it worth while to go after gold. Silver is
+not accounted of any value in Mosul. The natives, especially perhaps
+the Christians and Jews, always have a great deal of gold in their
+houses, and in consequence live in terror of the robbers coming to
+relieve them of it.
+
+Shortly before we left I heard of a very sad case of robbery and
+murder. A young Christian girl, who had just been married, was awakened
+one night by a man roughly forcing the gold bracelets from her wrist,
+holding at the same time a revolver at her head, and telling her if
+she made a sound he would shoot her dead. For a time she suffered
+in silence, but an extra sharp wrench from the rough hands of her
+tormentor made her cry out in pain. Her cry roused her husband,
+and he immediately made a dash for the robber, who calmly turned the
+revolver at the man's head and shot him dead. Thus the bride of only
+a few days' duration was left a widow. Another day two women belonging
+to one of the leading Christian families were returning from an early
+service at their church, when they were attacked by a Moslem man,
+who tore the gold coins from their heads and necks. The terrified
+women could hardly reach their own homes, so stunned were they by the
+harsh treatment of the robbers. The strange sequel to this story is,
+that after a few days a parcel arrived at the house to which the women
+belonged, which on being opened was found to contain all the gold which
+had been wrested from them a few days before. Another lady in Mosul,
+also a Christian, was the proud possessor of a most valuable set of
+jewels. One day everything disappeared. She neither saw nor heard a
+robber, but evidently one must have gained admission to the house,
+for all her jewels were taken; and to this day she has never had a
+clue as to their fate.
+
+I often say to the women in Mosul who sometimes commiserate me on
+having no gold: "Which is better--to have gold for the robbers to
+get, or to have none and be able to go to rest with a quiet mind?" I
+think most of them would prefer to have the gold and risk the rest,
+so devoted are they to it and all jewellery. Every woman, except the
+very poor, has on her marriage, gold coins for her head, gold chains
+for her neck, a golden band for her waist, gold bracelets for the
+arms, and the same for her ankles. Is it any wonder that these form
+attractions which prove too strong for the average robber to resist? I
+was once visiting at the house of a poor Jewess. She was telling me
+how poor she was, as her "man" was ill and could not work; but I said,
+"I expect you have gold?" "Oh yes, of course," was the answer; and
+going to a cupboard she pulled out a secret drawer and showed me her
+store of gold coins and bangles, valued at about L200. Before putting
+away her "gods," she asked me if I thought her hiding-place was secure
+enough against the invasion of robbers. These people certainly lay
+up for themselves treasures where thieves break through and steal,
+the result being that when their "treasures" are taken they are left
+disconsolate. Having nothing better to live for, are they not worthy
+of our love and pity?
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+THE PLEASURES OF DESERT TRAVELLING
+
+    Desert blossoms as a rose--Flowers of the desert--Arabs, their
+    occupation and women--Arab dancing--Robbers of the desert--An
+    army of ten thousand--Five hundred armed men--False alarms--Lost
+    in the desert--Delights and disturbances of travelling.
+
+
+                           "Truth is truth: too true it was,
+                            Gold! She hoarded and hugged it first,
+                            Longed for it, leaned o'er it, loved it--
+                                  Alas!
+                            Till the humour grew to a head and burst,
+                            And she cried at the final pass.
+
+                            Talk not of God, my heart is stone!
+                            Nor lover nor friend--be gold for both!
+                            Gold I lack, and, my all, my own...."
+
+                                                            R. Browning.
+
+
+                        "O that the desert were my dwelling-place."
+
+                                                                  Byron.
+
+
+
+It can with all truth be said that in springtime the Desert of
+Mesopotamia blossoms as a rose. Two years ago we travelled from Mosul
+to Aleppo by the northern route via Mardin, Diabekir, and Orfa. We left
+Mosul about the 20th June, just as the harvest had all been gathered
+in and the earth had once more resumed its parched-up appearance for
+another summer. No sooner had we left the neighbourhood of Mosul behind
+us than we were surrounded again on all sides by fields of waving
+corn, in many instances still green, and this continued the whole way
+to Aleppo; the harvest becoming later as we travelled north. Where
+the land was not cultivated the wild flowers were a perfect delight,
+and the desert air was filled with their sweetness. In one place the
+effect of these flowers was peculiarly enchanting. As far as the eye
+could see, the fields were covered with hollyhocks of all hues, the
+different shades being grouped together; thus a vast expanse of red
+hollyhocks would be succeeded by a field of white ones, these again
+changing to a delightful mauve. I have never anywhere seen such a
+wealth of wild flowers as we saw in that so-called desert journey from
+Mosul to Mardin. To try to enumerate the countless tiny flowers of the
+desert would be futile; they go very near to rival in number and beauty
+the wild flowers of Palestine. Once we were sitting in a field waiting
+for our caravan, and my husband said he would see how many different
+kinds of flowers he could pick without moving. In a minute or two
+he had gathered over a dozen, all within arm's reach. In that field
+alone there must have been at least a hundred varieties of flowers.
+
+As we approached Aleppo the flowers became scarcer, and fruit-trees
+took their place. One day I was riding on the top of the pack mule,
+when suddenly the animal (who had only one eye) stumbled, and I was
+deposited on the ground before I realised what had happened. Feeling
+rather hot and bruised, I looked about for a place to rest
+in. Fortunately we were near an orchard, so finding a delightfully
+shady tree, we decided to make this our lunching-ground. As we sat
+and rested ripe apricots fell from the tree into our laps. The owner
+of the orchard informed us we could eat as many as we liked--for
+a consideration!
+
+But desert travelling is not all as pleasant as this. Were we to
+retrace our steps a month or two later we should see no beautiful
+flowers or waving corn-fields, nothing but burnt-up desert land.
+
+The direct route from Mosul to Aleppo lies through land almost entirely
+desert. For two whole days nothing is to be seen save an occasional
+Arab encampment, and sometimes not even that.
+
+The Arabs of Mesopotamia belong as a rule to the great Shammar
+tribe. They wander up and down the country living in black tents made
+from camel or goats' hair. When wishing to seek pastures new they
+migrate from one place to another with all their flocks and herds,
+the tending of which forms one of their chief occupations. The Arab
+women are most industrious: in addition to the ordinary cares of
+the family, they fetch the water, carrying it home from the well or
+river in large jars balanced on their heads; they drive the flocks
+to pasture, milking them night and morning; they spin the wool of
+the sheep and goat, and weave it into cloth for the men's garments or
+for the tent canvas. In fact, there is hardly anything the Arab woman
+does not do, while her lord and master passes the time in scouring the
+country on horseback, or settling quarrels with his neighbours. Arabs
+of different tribes are very quick to go to war against each other,
+and will fight for the merest trifle, though blood is rarely shed,
+the consequences of a blood feud being so dreaded. With the Arab it
+must be blood for blood, and once blood has been shed, there can be
+no rest till vengeance has been satisfied.
+
+The Arabs are very proud of their horses, as they have every reason
+to be, a true Arab horse being a lovely creature. As a rule they do
+not shoe their horses at all.
+
+One day two men from an encampment near Mosul were walking along when
+they saw something on the road which attracted their attention. Picking
+it up, they examined it very carefully, turned it over and over, but
+could not come to any satisfactory conclusion regarding it. The object
+under discussion was a horseshoe, but as neither of them had ever seen
+such a thing before they could not guess its use. After discussing it
+gravely for some time one Arab said to the other, "Of course I know
+what it is. This is an old moon which has fallen down from heaven!"
+
+The Arabs are very hospitable people, and were often profuse in their
+invitations for us to eat with them. I have once or twice joined the
+women in sitting round a big cauldron full of "borghol" (crushed corn
+boiled with plenty of fat) and dipping with them into the one dish, and
+thoroughly enjoyed it. When you have a desert appetite it is possible
+to enjoy anything. Once my husband and I accepted an invitation to a
+meal with an Arab, and were regaled with chicken boiled with a green
+vegetable called "barmiya," and pillau. Our host would not eat with us,
+but employed himself brushing the flies away from the food as we ate.
+
+The Arab dance is a very weird performance to watch. The men and women
+all join hands, and shuffle with their feet, at the same time working
+every muscle of the body in a most grotesque fashion. As they warm
+to the dance they get very much excited, yelling and shouting in a
+frantic manner.
+
+These Arabs are the dreaded robbers of the desert, and our guard always
+impressed upon us, when travelling, what a dangerous set of people they
+were. Every speck on the horizon is magnified into a probable Arab;
+and if by chance one is met in the desert, the excitement is great. On
+one occasion we were riding in a very lonely spot when suddenly an Arab
+horseman rode into view. Immediately our gallant guard swooped down
+upon the unfortunate man, asking him what he meant by spying upon our
+movements, for they did not think it possible that he would be there
+alone if it were not for that object. The Arab assured us he had no
+such intentions, but had only come to meet a friend whom he believed
+to be in our caravan. However, our escort would not credit his story,
+so took him prisoner till we had safely passed the dangerous part,
+and then allowed him to return. We could not help wondering whether,
+if there had been twenty Arabs instead of one, our guard would have
+been so brave.
+
+Another time we were crossing a huge track of waterless desert,
+said to be infested with marauding Arab tribes, when suddenly we
+saw the escort becoming highly excited, waving their guns about,
+preparatory to galloping off. Before we had time to ask what it
+was all about they were off. We were then driving in a carriage,
+so making inquiries from our driver were assured it was nothing,
+only he pointed ominously to a long black line seen far away in the
+distance. Our servant assured us this was the shadow of the mountain,
+but this was only said to reassure us in case we felt alarmed.
+
+The "black line" appeared to be steadily advancing, every moment
+becoming more and more like a huge army of mounted men marching
+straight for us. Our driver, thinking, no doubt, of the probable
+capture of his horses by the robbers, lashed up the poor beasts into
+a gallop, urging them on ever faster and faster till they could go no
+quicker. Our servant, who was sitting on the box-seat, made valiant
+attempts to draw off our thoughts from the impending danger, as he
+thought the "khatoun" would be much frightened. But the "khatoun" was
+not to be blindfolded, and much preferred to see and know what was
+going on. By this time the "army" had assumed enormous proportions,
+for as each section appeared in sight, another one loomed behind,
+away in the distance. Already in my mind I resignedly (?) bade
+farewell to all the contents of our boxes, as I pictured the Arabs
+ruthlessly breaking them open and spreading the contents on the
+ground for inspection and division. We soon saw that we must give
+up the race, for every moment brought us nearer our dreaded enemies;
+till just as we reached the top of a small rise in the ground we came
+face to face with our "army of soldiers." "Alhamd'llillah!" they were
+nothing more alarming than a huge cavalcade of about 10,000 camels
+being taken to water in companies of 500, each company being in charge
+of a drover, the order and regularity with which they walked giving
+the impression that they were regiments of mounted soldiers. I fancy
+the alarm of the guards and driver was only assumed for our benefit,
+for on our return journey they began the same story at the identical
+spot, and there again, sure enough, was the steady advancing line;
+but this time we were wiser, and could laugh at our would-be alarmists.
+
+Another time we had just crossed a river at the end of a long day's
+march, and were enjoying a well-earned rest and cup of tea, when our
+escort came up in great distress of mind to say that he had just heard
+that a band of 500 armed men had that morning crossed the river with
+the avowed intention of lying in wait for the Feringhi caravan and
+attacking it. We were getting used to alarms of this kind, and at first
+only laughed at their anxious faces; but they were so persistent in
+their entreaties that we should not remain on that side of the river,
+that we began to think that perhaps, after all, this time they might
+have foundation for their fears. So we made a compromise to the effect
+that, if they wished, we would pack up and move on to some village,
+although we were very tired. So with this they had to be content, and
+it was arranged that at midnight we were to start. However, just before
+turning in for a short rest, the guard again made their appearance,
+this time to say they had considered that it would not be at all
+safe to travel by night, and that we had better wait till daylight,
+adding in the usual way: "But do not be afraid; we will watch all
+night long." So we all retired very thankfully to rest. It was a very
+hot night, and being unable to sleep I went outside the tent door
+for a little air, and found our gallant guard all fast asleep and
+snoring. In the morning they assured us that they had never closed
+their eyes all night, but had sat up watching for robbers!!
+
+We had experienced once in Persia the pleasant sensation of being
+lost when alone in the desert. In the Turkish-Arabian desert we,
+in company with the whole caravan, were once lost, and spent many
+weary hours wandering about seeking for our right road in vain. It
+was a day or two after leaving Diabekir; our escort, reduced to one
+soldier as the road was considered fairly safe, was quite sure he
+knew the way. Our muleteer and servants had never travelled that
+road before, so we were completely in the hands of one man; but as
+he seemed quite sure, we did not trouble about it, knowing that these
+men are always on the road acting as escort. But we soon found that we
+were trusting to a broken reed, so far as his knowledge as a guide was
+concerned. We started one day on what we supposed to be a short stage,
+but to our surprise it seemed to lengthen out into a longer one than
+usual, till we began to despair of ever reaching the end. At last,
+when sunset was a thing of the past, we began to suspect that our
+guide was not too sure of his where-abouts; and this suspicion soon
+changed to certainty when we suddenly found ourselves on the top of a
+steep bank, down which it was impossible for the animals to climb. Our
+clever guide then confessed that he did not know where we were.
+
+It was now quite dark, and we had been riding since early morning,
+so felt pretty tired; but our muleteer said it was quite out of the
+question to stay where we were, as there was no water for the animals,
+and the hills with which we were surrounded were known to be full of
+robbers. So we wandered on and on and on, listening in vain for some
+sound of habitation and hearing none, longing even to hear the joyful
+sound of the barking of dogs or croaking of frogs, telling of life and
+water; but our longings were not to be realised that night. At last,
+about ten o'clock, we said we could not possibly go any further; so,
+amidst much discontent and fear on the part of the men, we dismounted
+and declared our intention of staying where we were till dawn. The
+animals were all tethered, and we all sat round in a circle, so that
+if the robbers came we should be able to show a good front. The men
+appeared to be quite frightened, and declared they would not sleep,
+but each would take his turn at watching. We were too sleepy to
+care much whether the robbers came or not, so wrapping ourselves in
+blankets we were soon fast asleep. Awaking about half-an-hour later,
+I looked out to see how the "watchers" were getting on, and saw that
+they were all fast asleep, covered up in their abas or long cloaks. I
+soon followed their example and slept till morning, no robbers having
+come in the night to disturb our slumbers. We discovered that we had
+wandered a good distance out of our way, but found the right path soon
+after nine o'clock, and very thankful we all were to obtain water to
+drink--the animals more so than any of us, perhaps.
+
+Travelling in the desert is very pleasant if the stage is not a very
+long one. To start about sunrise or a little after, ride three or
+four hours, then have a lunch of bread and melons, and finish up
+with another three hours' ride, makes a very pleasant picnic; but
+when the stage takes twelve or thirteen hours to do, the pleasure
+becomes a burden. At the end of a short stage it is delightful to
+sit outside our tent and enjoy the cool breeze of the desert, and
+watch the stars peeping out one after the other. Sometimes, however,
+the weather is not such as to allow of this form of enjoyment. When we
+were coming home in 1907, in crossing the desert we came in for some
+tremendously heavy thunderstorms. One night we were simultaneously
+awakened by a tremendous gust of wind which threatened to bring
+down the tent. We sprang up and clung to the poles; but thinking the
+whole structure was bound to fall, and preferring to be outside, I
+forsook my pole to which I had been clinging, and rushed out into the
+pouring rain. My husband went to call some of the men, and found them
+all happily asleep in the carriage: with great difficulty he awoke
+them, and together they made secure all the tent-pegs. By this time
+the great fury of the storm was over, and we crept inside the tent,
+wet, cold, and miserable. Wonderful to say, neither of us caught cold
+after our adventure. The next morning we spread all our wet bedding,
+&c., in the sun to dry; and just as it was nearly ready, down came
+another storm and soaked everything again. Such are some of the joys
+of travelling in the desert.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+PIONEER MEDICAL MISSION WORK IN MOSUL (NINEVEH) [6]
+
+    Winning the confidence of the people--Native surgery--Difficulties
+    to be overcome--Backward patients--Encouraging work--Prevalent
+    diseases--Lunatics--Possible future of Mesopotamia.
+
+
+                                "... My soul is full
+                    Of pity for the sickness of this world;
+                    Which I will heal, if healing may be found!"
+
+                                                          Sir E. Arnold.
+
+
+It is often thought that in the East, whenever an English doctor
+arrives at a city, patients throng to him from all quarters. This
+is only partially true, at least in the near East. If medicine and
+attendance are granted free indiscriminately, doubtless at first
+crowds will attend the out-patient department, many coming merely out
+of curiosity. If good work is to be done, it is better to make some
+charge, however small, exempting only the very poor. This principle
+has, I believe, been adopted by all our medical missionaries, and
+fees thus earned go to help in making the work self-supporting.
+
+The European doctor in Persia or Turkey has first to win the confidence
+of the people, and this is sometimes no easy matter. On our arrival
+in Mosul we rented a house in the centre of the city, which had two
+compounds. We lived in the inner compound, and made the outer into
+a dispensary and small hospital.  At first everything looked rather
+hopeless, the house being an old one and nearly in ruins. However, we
+made a big stable into a waiting-room for the patients; other rooms
+were patched up and transformed into consulting-room, dispensary,
+operating theatre, and wards, all of a most primitive kind. In this
+great city of 60,000 to 80,000 people our staff consisted of my wife
+and me and two native assistants, who had been trained in our Baghdad
+Medical Mission.
+
+There was no lack of physicians in the city, but excluding two or
+three Turkish army doctors, and one or two others with Constantinople
+diplomas, the rest were quacks of the most pronounced type. Nearly
+every old lady in the city thinks herself competent to treat
+diseases of the eye, the barbers are the surgeons, bone-setters
+abound, hereditary physicians are by no means scarce. These latter
+inherit "herbal prescriptions" from their forefathers, and though
+now forbidden to practise by the Turkish Government, yet contrive
+to visit many houses as a "friend" after dark, and earn enough for
+a livelihood. The Dominicans (who have a large Mission in Mosul)
+also give away many medicines, and have now a qualified native
+doctor. But though there is much "physicking" in Mosul, but little
+surgery is done, and that gives the opportunity for the European
+doctor to step in. Arab surgery is of the crudest description. Let
+one sample suffice. A poor Arab woman was brought to the dispensary,
+soon after we started work, by her father. She complained of not being
+able to breathe through her nose. On examining her throat I found that
+the upper air passage had become shut off from the back of the throat
+as a result of old inflammation. Upon further inquiry I elicited the
+following history. Two years before, the patient had developed a bad
+sore throat. Her father took her to the native surgeon, who had the
+poor woman's mouth held forcibly open, while he proceeded to cure
+the sore throat by rubbing it with a red-hot flattened piece of iron!
+
+Gradually we commenced to win the confidence of the people: they
+came in ever-increasing numbers to the dispensary. Gathered together
+in the waiting-room would be a crowd composed of many different
+nationalities--Christians, Moslems, Jews, Kurds from the mountains,
+Bedouins from the desert, Yezidees (the so-called devil-worshippers),
+a motley throng, listening quietly and without interruption to the
+reading and exposition of the Gospel, ere passing one by one through
+the doctor's consulting-room, for the treatment of their multitudinous
+diseases. The medical missionary is called upon to do his best to cure
+every ailment; he must be ready to accept heavy responsibilities,
+there are no "specialists" to consult, often he is without the
+help of any trained nurse, and in pioneer work, at least, he has no
+properly equipped hospital, and must perforce perform most serious
+operations under the worst possible conditions. In addition to all
+this, in lands under Mohammedan rule there is always the risk of a
+riot if a patient should die in a Christian hospital, especially on
+the operating table. Yet despite all these drawbacks, it is a grand
+life, revealing to a man his own utter weakness, and making him rely
+more and more upon his God.
+
+Soon we were able to commence admitting in-patients, being forced to
+limit admission to surgical cases. At first there was considerable
+difficulty in getting the patients to come on the actual day fixed
+for the operation; each one was anxious for his neighbour to be the
+first. Finally I was compelled to threaten to put a black mark against
+the name of any patient who had agreed to come in for operation and
+then failed to put in an appearance, adding that that patient would
+have to wait a long time before having a chance offered a second
+time. This had the desired effect, a woman needing a small eyelid
+operation being the first to brave the terrors of the Feringhi
+hospital.
+
+In due course, instruments and dressings all having been prepared,
+the patient, in a condition of mortal terror, was led into the
+operating room, and induced to lie on the table. But alas, her fears
+gained the mastery, and she instantly jumped up, ran out of the room,
+and disappeared from the dispensary. This was not encouraging, but a
+few days later a little Jew boy suffering from vesical stone (a very
+common disease in Mosul, especially amongst children) was brought to
+the hospital by his father. We persuaded him to enter the hospital
+with his boy, and thus finally gained our first in-patient. The stone
+having been removed, and the boy making a good recovery, we had no
+further difficulty in getting in-patients. Our six wooden beds soon
+all had occupants, then we added six more beds; finally, obtaining
+a neighbouring house for our own residence, we made our old house
+(the inner compound) into a small hospital for women and children.
+Thus we were able to accommodate twenty-four patients, and as each
+had at least one friend, we often had over fifty people resident
+on the premises. It is this in-patient work that gives the most
+encouraging opportunities to the medical missionary. There in his
+little hospital he has patients of all creeds, lying side by side;
+many have been relieved or cured by operation, and will listen
+gratefully to all the teaching they can get. Each patient before
+the operation hears the doctor pray a short prayer, asking God to
+bless the operation and cause it to be successful. Day after day,
+week after week, he receives instruction, and gains an entirely new
+idea of what Christianity really is, and when he leaves the mission
+hospital and returns to his home, whether in the city or in a distant
+mountain village, all his old bitter opposition to Christianity has
+disappeared, and often he will send other patients for treatment to
+the English mission. The following statistics, for two years only,
+may prove interesting, as showing the far-reaching influence of even
+a badly equipped, undermanned medical mission:--
+
+
+      Total attendance of out-patients                 24,519
+      Operations performed  {197 Major}                   569
+                            {372 Minor}
+      Total number of in-patients                         288
+      Number of villages and towns, excluding Mosul,
+      from which patients have come to the dispensary     348
+
+
+This last item is especially interesting; excluding Mosul (from which
+naturally most of our patients are drawn), 348 different towns and
+villages (some as many as ten days' journey) have sent us patients,
+and yet the work is barely started!
+
+To illustrate the effect of a medical mission in disarming opposition,
+I may add that, in 1907, when it was feared that, owing to the need
+for retrenchment, the Society would have to close the work in Mosul,
+a petition, signed by most of the prominent Mohammedan residents,
+including the chief mullahs, was brought to me, asking that I would
+remit it at once to the Society. It was a request that the Medical
+Mission should not be withdrawn, as it had been such a boon to the
+inhabitants of the city. In a very wonderful manner God heard and
+answered our prayers, and the Mission is not to be closed, but rather
+it is hoped to equip it more thoroughly.
+
+The operations most frequently called for in Mosul are those for
+"cataract" and vesical stone, but patients come with many other
+diseases, both surgical and medical. The city is full of phthisis; the
+insanitary conditions under which the vast majority of the inhabitants
+live favour its rapid dissemination. Smallpox and typhoid fever are
+very common, and once these diseases have been definitely diagnosed,
+neither the patient nor his friends will permit any further medical
+treatment. For the latter disease the patient is kept on fairly strict
+diet until he "perspires." This to the native mind denotes the end
+of all possible danger, so he is then pressed to eat anything and
+everything, with disastrous results. Malaria, dysentery, hepatic
+abscesses are also rife; there have also been epidemics of cholera
+and plague, but not of late years. Once the projected Baghdad Railway
+(which will pass through Mosul) is an accomplished fact, we may expect
+the importation of plague from the south, unless the most stringent
+precautions are taken.
+
+The Bedouin Arab can rarely be persuaded to stop in the city; after
+the freedom of life in the desert, he feels stifled within the four
+walls of a house. Ere leaving Mosul I had a curious demonstration of
+this fact. An old blind Arab was brought to me by his son, suffering
+from double cataract. I told him that by means of a simple operation
+he might once again be able to see, but that he would have to stay
+in the hospital for a few days. He indignantly refused, saying he
+would rather remain blind the rest of his life than sleep beneath a
+roof. In vain did his son plead with him, and finding that I would
+not operate at once and allow him to be treated as an out-patient,
+the old man went sorrowfully away.
+
+Every in-patient admitted had to bring a friend to help to nurse him,
+as we had no proper hospital equipment and no trained nurse. Only twice
+in the three years did I break this rule, both times with disastrous
+results. The first was a poor old man from a village some days' journey
+from Mosul. He was poor and friendless, also blind with "cataract";
+reluctantly I allowed myself to be influenced by his pathetic
+pleadings, and admitted him without any one to look after him. Prior
+to his admission he had been bitten on the calf of one leg by a dog,
+and complaining of pain from this wound, we dressed it with a simple
+boracic fomentation. Unfortunately this dressing was forgotten and
+left on the leg. The eye was in due course operated upon successfully,
+and the patient received the usual strict injunction to lie still for
+twenty-four hours. At the first dressing everything seemed all right;
+two days later I found to my sorrow that the eye had suppurated, and
+that there was no hope of saving the vision. The strictest inquiry was
+at once instituted, but for some time we could discover no clue as to
+how the eye had become infected; then the truth came out. It appeared
+that the second night after the operation the old man commenced to
+feel a slight pricking pain in the eye that had been operated upon
+(not an uncommon symptom after "cataract" extraction, with no bad
+significance as a rule). The pain seemed similar to that which he
+had felt in his leg, which had been relieved by the application of
+the boracic fomentation. The patient reasoned thus with himself:
+"It is night time, I had better not call for the doctor; but the
+medicine on my eye is evidently doing no good, while that put on my
+leg cured a similar pain to this at once, so I had better take off
+this bandage from my eye and replace it with the one on my leg"! This
+he had proceeded to do, and consequently lost his newly acquired sight.
+
+The other case was somewhat similar, but the patient was a fanatical
+Moslem priest, whom I afterwards found out was a well-known "majnoon"
+(madman). He also had been admitted alone, and we had but little
+trouble with him until after the operation (also for "cataract") had
+been performed. A few hours later my assistant came running to me,
+and said: "Doctor, that old cataract patient declares that he must
+and he will say his prayers. We have done our best to prevent him,
+but in vain." Now a Mohammedan, before he prays, performs certain
+ablutions, which include washing his hands and face; so I at once ran
+up to the ward, but, alas! we arrived too late. The old priest had
+taken off his bandage, washed his face and hands, said his prayers,
+and was quite unable to understand why the Hakim Sahib should be
+angry! We gave the poor old man some lotion and a shade for his eye,
+and sent him back to his home (as he lived in Mosul), refusing to
+accept any further responsibility. Some weeks later my assistant met
+the old priest in the bazaar, quite pleased with himself, for he had
+actually obtained sufficient sight to find his way about alone.
+
+Fortunately the majority of the patients are more reasonable,
+and quickly learn to submit more or less to "hospital
+regulations." Children sometimes proved troublesome, especially boys,
+when accompanied by a crowd of relations. I remember one morning, when
+making my daily round, coming across a group of people surrounding a
+little boy six years of age. He had been ordered a dose of castor oil,
+and had made up his obstinate little mind that he would not take the
+nasty stuff. Being a boy, and only son and heir, he had been spoilt
+most royally. Father, mother, aunt, grandmother, and friends each
+in turn tried persuasion, varied by gentle threats, all in vain. He
+beat and (I am sorry to say) cursed the women, his mother included,
+and sullenly refused to accept the medicine from his father, despite
+sundry promises of sweets, money, &c.
+
+After watching the scene with some amusement I stepped forward, took
+the cup containing the obnoxious castor oil, and forcibly administered
+the dose without regarding the boy's shrieks and tears. Then I read
+the parents a little lecture upon the evil result of spoiling their
+children, which I fear had but scant result.
+
+Often do I feel ashamed as I note how patiently pain and diseases
+are borne by these poor people. It is always "the will of God," and
+therefore there is no use complaining, and little use rebelling. Time
+after time have I had to gently break the news to some poor patient,
+who may have come long distances to see the English doctor, that his
+blindness could not be cured by operation, being caused by what is
+popularly known as black cataract (glaucoma). A few (usually women)
+would go away weeping, but the vast majority both of men and women
+would quietly respond, "Alhamd'llillah" (Praise be to God), with but
+little sign of emotion.
+
+So far as I know there is but one asylum for cases of mental diseases
+in the whole of the Turkish Empire, and that one is at Asfariyeh,
+near Beyrout, and belongs to an English society. The usual method of
+dealing with lunatics in Mosul is, if they are apparently harmless,
+that they are allowed to wander about freely and treated kindly;
+but once they develop symptoms of mania they are treated as wild
+beasts, put into a dark room, and chained to a wall. But we possess
+a specialist in "mental diseases" in Mosul, belonging to an old
+Mohammedan family, who has a great reputation for the treatment of
+"lunatics." In the courtyard of his house he has had dug several
+deep wells, and beside each well is placed a large tub, having a hole
+in the bottom which communicates with the well.  The poor madman is
+made to work from sunrise to sunset, drawing water from the well and
+pouring it into the perforated tub, being told that he may leave off
+when he has filled the tub. If he refuses to work, he is unmercifully
+beaten. Several cures are said to have resulted from this treatment.
+
+There is nothing so potent as the in-patient work of a hospital in
+overcoming opposition. Amongst our numerous "cataract" patients was
+an Arab from Singar (a mountainous district near Mosul). He came
+armed with a perfectly unnecessary introduction, in the shape of a
+letter from one of the chief Mohammedans in the city. After he had
+regained his sight and had left the hospital, ere returning to his
+mountain home he went to this "big" Moslem to thank him. He found
+himself the centre of a large and curious throng, who questioned him
+severely upon his experiences in the "Christian" hospital. Some of
+the more fanatical (it was in the early days of the Mission) did
+not scruple to speak against the hospital and the English hakim;
+but, like the man in St. John's Gospel, this Arab was not afraid to
+testify of what had been done for him, "for," said he, "you can say
+what you like--one thing I know, before I was blind, now I can see."
+
+But enough--I fear to tire my readers; but ere closing I would like
+just to refer to the possible future of Mesopotamia. One thing is
+certain, a few years more will exhibit great changes. I have already
+referred to the Baghdad Railway. As I write it is rumoured that the
+German Government have at last obtained a further concession from
+the Sultan of Turkey, which will allow them to continue the line
+another five hundred miles, piercing Mount Taurus and reaching near
+to the city of Mardin (some ten days' journey north of Mosul). When
+this is accomplished the rest of the work is quite simple. The line
+from Mardin to Baghdad (passing through Mosul) should present no
+difficulties, and Mosul (with the ruins of Nineveh) will become easy
+of access from Europe.
+
+In the next place there is the question of the navigation of the
+Tigris. Ere long there is no doubt that boats will be allowed to come
+up the river from Baghdad to Mosul, and possibly on up to Diabekir
+(300-400 miles north of Mosul). This will mean an enormous increase
+in trade, both in imports and exports.
+
+Finally, there is that fascinating problem of the irrigation of the
+Mesopotamian desert. The remains of old canals are still visible,
+and it needs nothing but an energetic government willing to spend
+a comparatively small sum, plus the services of a capable engineer,
+to transform the whole of that desert between the two great rivers
+Euphrates and Tigris into a veritable Garden of Eden, even as it
+must have been in the days of old, when huge armies were able to
+find sufficient provender for man and beast throughout the whole of
+that vast region. The "finale" of that great province, containing the
+ruins of so many ancient cities, has not yet been written; and there
+are many signs which tend to suggest to the thoughtful observer that,
+ere another century has passed, Mesopotamia may once again take its
+place, and that no mean position, amongst the kingdoms of the earth!
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+NOTES
+
+
+[1] "A Year amongst the Persians."
+
+[2] By Dr. A. Hume-Griffith.
+
+[3] By Dr. A. Hume-Griffith.
+
+[4] By Dr. A. Hume-Griffith.
+
+[5] Extract from "The Literary History of the Arabs," by
+R. A. Nicholson, M.A.
+
+[6] By Dr. A. Hume-Griffith.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish
+Arabia, by M. E. Hume-Griffith and A. Hume-Griffith
+
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