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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Heroic Spain, by Elizabeth Boyle O'Reilly
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
+
+
+Title: Heroic Spain
+
+Author: Elizabeth Boyle O'Reilly
+
+Release Date: March 24, 2012 [EBook #39246]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HEROIC SPAIN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images available at The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+HEROIC SPAIN
+
+[Illustration: A SPANISH HIDALGO, BY EL GRECO]
+
+
+
+
+HEROIC SPAIN
+
+BY
+E. BOYLE O'REILLY
+
+[Illustration]
+
+NEW YORK
+DUFFIELD AND COMPANY
+1910
+
+COPYRIGHT, 1910
+BY DUFFIELD AND COMPANY
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+INTRODUCTION: PRACTICAL HINTS                                          1
+
+ESPAÑA LA HEROICA: VERSES                                             12
+
+IN THE BASQUE COUNTRY: LOYOLA                                         13
+
+BURGOS AND THE CID                                                    33
+
+VALLADOLID                                                            55
+
+OVIEDO IN THE ASTURIAS                                                79
+
+THE SLEEPING CITIES OF LEON                                          104
+
+GALICIA                                                              121
+
+SALAMANCA                                                            142
+
+SEGOVIA                                                              159
+
+SAINT TERESA AND AVILA                                               183
+
+EVENING IN AVILA: VERSES                                             212
+
+MADRID AND THE ESCORIAL                                              213
+
+TOLEDO                                                               229
+
+CORDOVA AND GRANADA                                                  258
+
+VIGNETTES OF SEVILLE                                                 274
+
+A CHURCH FEAST IN SEVILLE                                            293
+
+HOLY WEEK IN SEVILLE                                                 302
+
+CADIZ                                                                316
+
+A FEW MODERN NOVELS                                                  326
+
+ESTREMADURA                                                          351
+
+ARAGON                                                               369
+
+MINOR CITIES OF CATALONIA                                            385
+
+BARCELONA                                                            395
+
+GERONA AND FAREWELL TO SPAIN                                         420
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                                    Page
+
+A Spanish Hidalgo, by El Greco                              Frontispiece
+
+Burgos Cathedral from the Castle Hill                                 36
+
+The Façade of San Gregorio, Valladolid                                58
+
+The Cathedral of León                                                108
+
+View of Salamanca from the Roman Bridge                              142
+
+Façade of the University Library, Salamanca                          154
+
+The Alcázar of Segovia                                               182
+
+House of the Duque de la Roca, Avila                                 196
+
+Isabella of Portugal, by Titian                                      223
+    Prado Gallery, Madrid
+
+Tomb of Bishop San Segundo, by Berruguete, Avila                     256
+
+Los Seises, Cathedral of Seville                                     299
+
+St. Francis of Assisi                                                327
+    A wood-carving by Carmona, Museum of León
+
+A Roadside Scene in Spain                                            354
+
+The Cathedral of Sigüenza                                            374
+
+Cloisters of San Pablo del Campo, Barcelona                          403
+
+A Street Stairway, Gerona                                            420
+
+
+
+
+_HEROIC SPAIN_
+
+
+    "_Let nothing disturb thee,_
+    _Nothing affright thee,_
+    _All things are passing,_
+    _God never changeth._
+    _Patient endurance_
+    _Attaineth to all things,_
+    _Who God possesseth_
+    _In nothing is wanting,_
+    _Alone God sufficeth._"
+
+    MAXIMS OF SAINT TERESA
+
+"All national criticism in bulk is misleading and foolish, and I look on
+the belief of Spaniards that Spain ought to be great and strong as the
+most promising agency of her future regeneration."
+
+JAMES RUSSELL LOWELL
+
+_As Minister to Spain, in a letter Oct. 20, 1877_
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+PRACTICAL HINTS
+
+
+Travel in Spain to-day is attended with little hardship and no danger
+whatever. Even if one barely knows a word of the language, it is not
+foolhardy to explore the distant provinces. Commit a few simple
+sentences to the memory and have courage in using them, for Spanish is
+pronounced just as it is spelled, with a few exceptions soon observed.
+The merest beginner is understood.
+
+When a trip into Spain is planned it would be well to send for
+information about the kilometric ticket to the _Chemins de Fer
+Espagnols_, 20 Rue Chauchat, Paris. They will mail you, gratis, a
+pamphlet with a map of the country, where is marked the number of
+kilometers between the cities; from this it is easy to calculate how
+large a ticket to buy. The more kilometers taken at one time, the
+cheaper it is. Thus a ticket of 2,000 k. costs 165 pesetas; one of 5,000
+k. costs 385 p., and so on. We got a 10,000 kilometric ticket for two
+people, first class, good for ten months, paying for it 682 pesetas. If
+the ticket is bought outside of Spain you pay for it in francs, whereas
+if bought in Spain, you pay in pesetas, which are about fifteen per cent
+less than francs. Provide yourself with your photograph, and at the
+first Spanish town--Irún, if you come from Paris, and Port-Bou if from
+Marseilles--as there is always a pause of some hours on the frontier for
+the customs, it is a simple matter to buy your _carnet kilométrique_ in
+the station. It is only on one or two short local lines that these
+tickets are not accepted. Unfortunately the new rail from Gibraltar up
+to Bobadilla, by way of which many tourists enter Spain, is one of these
+disobliging minor lines. In fact many who start their trip from the
+south have found difficulty in procuring a kilometric ticket till they
+reached Seville or Granada; this confuses the traveler, and makes him
+decide the ticket is too complicated for practical use. If he comes to
+visit merely the southern province of Andalusia, which is what most
+people see of Spain, with a run up to Madrid for the pictures, then,
+unless several are traveling as one family, there is little gained by
+the _carnet_, since a few hundred unused miles are sometimes wasted. But
+for the complete tour of Spain the kilometric ticket is the most
+satisfactory arrangement. Besides the reduction it makes in the fare, it
+saves the confusion of changing money in the stations. You go to the
+ticket office before boarding a train, have the coupons to be used torn
+off, and are given a complementary ticket to hand to the conductor on
+the train. It is well to buy the official railway guide as it saves
+asking questions, for Spanish trains, though they crawl at a snail's
+pace, start at the hour announced, and arrive on the minute set down in
+the time-table.
+
+Thirty kilos, about sixty-six pounds, are allowed free in the luggage
+van, but for an extensive tour it is better to send trunks ahead by some
+agency, and travel with only the valises taken with you in the carriage.
+These the _mozo_, or porter, carries directly from the train to the
+hotel omnibus, which--another good custom of the country--is always in
+waiting, no matter at what hour the arrival. First class travel in Spain
+is about the same as second class elsewhere; second class is like third
+class in France, except on the express route from Paris to Madrid, and
+in Catalonia, where second class is comfortable.
+
+A hasty sketch of our tour may help later travelers. We entered from the
+north, by Biarritz, a far better way of seeing the country in its
+natural sequence than the usual landing at Gibraltar. One feels that the
+north of Spain, in the truest degree national, untouched by the Moor,
+has never had justice done it. If a transatlantic liner touched at one
+of the northern ports, such as Vigo, Santander, Bilbao, it would open
+up an untrodden Switzerland with fertile valleys and noble hills. No
+pleasanter summer tour, on bicycle or afoot, could be made than through
+the Basque provinces, Asturias, the national cradle of Spain, or in
+beautiful Galicia with its trout rivers. In summer the climate is cool
+and pleasant, and the most isolated valleys are so safe that any two
+women could travel alone with security.
+
+Our first stop was at Loyola in the Basque country; then a week in
+Burgos; a short stay at Valladolid and Palencia; over the Asturian
+Mountains to Oviedo; back to León City, and from there across other
+hills to Galicia, seeing Lugo, Coruña, and Santiago in that province;
+from Coruña to Santiago by diligence, as no rail yet connects the two
+cities. We returned to León province from Galicia, skirting the Miño
+River which divides Spain and Portugal; stopped a night at Astorga, some
+days in Salamanca, and made a short pause in Zamora.
+
+Time must not be a consideration in touring these unfrequented cities of
+middle Spain, for their local trains are few and far between. Only twice
+a week is there direct communication between Salamanca and Medina del
+Campo, the junction station on the express route. But if you accept once
+for all the slowness of the trains, the occasional odd hour of arrival
+or starting, the inconvenience of a distantly-set station, you cease to
+fret and scold as do most hurried travelers. We ended by finding the
+long railway journeys rather restful than otherwise. Usually we had the
+_Reservado para Señoras_ carriage to ourselves, except on the express
+line from Paris to Madrid, and we soon learned how to make ourselves
+comfortable for a whole day's journey, seizing the chance of taking
+exercise during the long pauses in the stations, and enjoying the
+human-hearted scenes there witnessed; for a Spaniard greets and bids
+farewell with the same unconsciousness, the same absence of mauvaise
+honte as when he prays or makes love.
+
+Also I found the topography of the country of endless interest during
+the long train trips; to climb up to the great truncated mountain which
+is central Spain, to see how the still higher ranges of mountains
+crossed it, how the famous rivers flowed, the setting of the historic
+cities,--I never tired of looking out on it all. Somehow I have got
+tucked away a distinct picture of Spain's physical geography, no doubt
+due to the leisurely railway journeys, which are not so slow that the
+proportion of the whole is lost, as foot or horse travel would be, nor
+yet so fast as to jumble the picture, as with the express trips in some
+countries.
+
+Spain is not beautiful like Italy, nor of the orderly finished type of
+England or France; she has few of Germany's grand forests. There is no
+denying she is a gaunt, denuded, tragic land; the desolation of the vast
+high steppes of Castile is terrible. Only the fringing coasts along the
+Atlantic and the Mediterranean are fertile. Nevertheless, unbeautiful as
+is the landscape, it possesses an unaccountable magnificence that grips
+the mind; we never took a night trip unless forced to it, so strangely
+interesting were the hours spent in looking from the car window.
+
+After Salamanca we went to Segovia, then across the Guadarramas to the
+Escorial, and slightly back north by the same mountains to Avila.
+Segovia and Avila are true old mediæval cities of the inmost heart of
+the race, _España la heróica_ incarnate. Again passing through the
+hills, whose cold blue atmosphere Velasquez has made immortally real, we
+went to Madrid. From there, south, we struck the beaten tourist track
+with pestering guides and higher prices in the hotels. Up to this we had
+driven, on arrival in a town, to the first or second hotel mentioned in
+Baedeker, and the average charge had been seven pesetas a day, all
+included. The provincial hotels gave a surprisingly good table;
+excellent soups, fresh fish, the meats fair, and all presented in a
+savory way; the fact that many men of the town use the hotel as a
+restaurant has much to do with the generous menu. The rooms were cold
+and bare, but clean, for not one night of distress did we spend during
+the eight months' tour. Of course certain modern comforts were
+completely lacking, but we were grateful enough for clean beds and
+wholesome food. The taking of money for hospitality is thought degrading
+by this chivalrous people, so the traveler should not judge them by the
+innkeeper class with whom he comes in contact. I found courtesy as a
+rule and honesty even in the inns; having valises that could not lock, I
+yet lost nothing. From Toledo on, we began to go, not to the best hotel
+mentioned in the guide book, for that now had an average charge of
+twenty-five francs a day, but we chose some minor inn, such as the Fonda
+da Lino, in Toledo, once the first hostelry in the city before the
+"Palace" variety was started for the American tourist.
+
+We had spent October and November in seeing the northern provinces whose
+piercing cold made us only too glad to settle for the four winter months
+in Andalusia; a day at Cordova, a fortnight in Granada, a trip to Cadiz,
+and the bulk of the time in Seville, the best city in Spain for a
+prolonged stay, though Barcelona also can offer good winter quarters. In
+April we went north into Estremadura to see the Roman remains, then
+returned to Madrid for another sight of its unrivaled gallery, and also
+because all routes focus from the capital like the spokes of a wheel. We
+continued east to Guadalajara and Sigüenza, stopped some days at
+Saragossa, then descended by Poblet to the warm fertile coast again, to
+tropical Tarragona and that industrial anomaly in an hidalgo land,
+Barcelona. After spending some weeks there, in the beginning of June we
+left Spain by the Port-Bou frontier, stopping at Gerona on the way out.
+
+Thus we had seen some twenty-five Spanish cities--some twenty-five
+glorious cathedrals!--in a leisurely journey of eight months. Any spot
+along the southern fringe is suitable for the winter, any spot along the
+northern coast for the summer, but in high cold middle-Spain travel for
+pleasure must be limited to early autumn or late spring: we froze to
+death in Burgos and Salamanca during October, and again shivered and
+chattered with the April cold of Guadalajara and Sigüenza.
+
+As to guide books, Baedeker is as good as any, though the Baedeker for
+Spain is not equal to that firm's guides for the rest of Europe.
+Murray's "Hand-book" is more entertaining, but is rather to be kept as
+amusing literature than used as a guide book, much of it being the
+personal opinions and prejudices of Richard Ford, and bristling all over
+with slurs at Spain's religion. It does not seem reasonable for
+English-speaking travelers to see this original country through the eyes
+of a clever but crochety Englishman who wandered over it on horseback
+eighty years ago: we should not like a European to judge America by
+Dickens' notebook dating back to the forties.
+
+There are two bits of advice I would give to those who would thoroughly
+enjoy traveling in the Peninsula. Pick up as soon as possible something
+of the tongue or you miss shadings that give depth and strength to the
+impression. If one knows Latin or French or Italian, it is easy to read
+Spanish. And I would beg every unhurried traveler to carry in his pocket
+the "Romancero del Cid," Spain's epic, and "Don Quixote," her great
+novel, the truest-hearted book ever written. I defy a man to while away
+a winter in Spain with _el ingenioso hidalgo_ his daily companion, or
+sit reading the "Cid" above the Tajus gorge at Toledo, and not learn to
+love this virile, ascetic, realistic, exalted, and passionate land,
+where a peasant is instinctively a gentleman, where a grandee is in
+practice a democrat, where certain small meanesses, such as
+snobbishness, close-fisted love of money, are unknown.
+
+The second advice is to bring to Spain some smattering of architectural
+knowledge, or half the charm of lingering in her old cities is
+lost,--also is lessened one's chance to catch unaware the soul of this
+mystic, profoundly religious race. Here I should end, as I head these
+lines of introduction with the words: _Practical hints_. And yet, just
+as it is well nigh impossible in Spain to dissociate the churches
+themselves from the religious scenes daily witnessed under their
+Romanesque or Gothic arches, so I cannot help begging the traveler,
+along with his smattering of architecture to bring a little liberality
+toward a faith different perhaps from his own, a little openness of
+mind. To one who goes to Spain in the holier-than-thou attitude, she is
+dumb and repellent,--she who can be so eloquent!
+
+In each of her cities is a cathedral built when faith was gloriously
+generous and untamable, and in them one feels, unless blinded by
+prejudices of early environment or birth, that here indeed man is bowed
+in the humble self-abasement of worship, here is not only æsthetic
+beauty but a burning soul; the incense, the lights, the inherited lavish
+wealth speak with the spirituality of symbols, of ritual, that utterance
+of the soul older than hymns or voiced prayer.
+
+This record of the journey through Spain will be called too partial, and
+yet I started without the slightest intention of liking or praising her.
+A month before going to Spain, on reading in the Bodleian Library
+certain accounts of St. Teresa, about whom I had but vague ideas, I
+exclaimed in distress, "What a morbid mind!" I went far from
+sympathetic, but bit by bit my prejudices dropped away. With the cant
+and smug self-conceit of northern superiority, I expected among other
+jars a shock to my religious belief. And after eight months I left Spain
+with the conviction that magnificently faulty though she is with her
+bull-fights, a venal government, and city loafers, she can give us
+lessons in mystic spirituality, in an unpretentious charity, in heroic
+endurance, in a very practical not theoretic democracy.
+
+
+
+
+ESPAÑA LA HEROICA
+
+
+    Deep learned are the poor in many ways,
+    Their hearts are mellowed by sweet human pain,
+    And she has learned the lesson of the waifs,
+    This sadly-ravaged, stern, soul-moving Spain!
+
+    Rugged and wild, wind-swept, and bleak, and drear,
+    She has a ruined splendor all her own,
+    It seizes even while you ask in fear
+    The reason man should choose this waste for home.
+
+    Her cities rise, ascetic, lofty, proud,
+    Forever haunted by high souls that dare,
+    And from her wondrous churches rings aloud
+    A heaven-storming radiance of prayer;
+
+    With psalm, with dance, with ecstasy's white thrill,
+    Her mystics dared to lose themselves in God,
+    Theirs was unflinching faith, fierce, _varonil_,
+    A force as true to nature as the sod.
+
+    Reward must come: perhaps from her to-day
+    May spring the needed saint, to think, to feel,
+    To grope triumphantly, to point the way
+    To altars where both Faith and Science kneel.
+
+    Upon her ashy mountain height she stands,
+    Eager to step into the forward strife,
+    Her eyes are wide with hope, outstretched her hands
+    To meet the promise of new coursing life:
+
+    Steadfast her cities to the desert face,
+    Snow mountains loom across the silent plain:
+    Take courage, O exalted tragic race!
+    Courage! Christ's always faithful grand old Spain!
+
+    Castile, 1908.
+
+
+
+
+IN THE BASQUE COUNTRY: LOYOLA
+
+     "The only happy people in the world are the good man, the sage, and
+     the saint; but the saint is happier than either of the others, so
+     much is man by his nature formed for sanctity."--JOUBERT.
+
+     "Whoever has been in the land of the Basques wishes to return to
+     it; it is a blessed land."--VICTOR HUGO.
+
+
+The Basque is still one of the sturdy untouched peoples of the earth;
+they make still the unmixed aborigines of Spain. Their difficult dialect
+remains a perplexity to the etymologist, some believe it to be of Tartar
+origin. They themselves claim to be the oldest race in Europe and that
+their language came to Spain before the confusion of tongues at Babel.
+They derive their name from a Basque phrase meaning "We are enough,"
+that fittingly describes their character of self-sufficiency; the mere
+fact of being born in the province confers nobility. Life for centuries
+in the isolated valleys that never were conquered by Moor or foreign
+invader has bred in the Basque a passionate independence. He would never
+join with the neighboring kingdoms of Navarre and León until his
+special privileges were ratified; and though these privileges were the
+important ones of exemption from taxes and military service, he
+succeeded in keeping them intact until his sympathies with the
+Pretenders in the Carlist wars lost him his ancient rights. To-day the
+Basques must pay taxes and serve in the army like the rest of Spain, but
+their soldiers are usually employed in the customs, or as aids to the
+local police. Their red cap, like the French béret, and brilliant red
+trousers are a familiar sight among the valleys.
+
+Of the three Basque provinces with their 600,000 people, the smallest,
+Guipúzcoa, is a good epitome of national characteristics. The sinuous
+valleys now serve as the passageway for the rushing mountain river, now
+spread out into a plain where the villages are set. Each town has its
+shady _alameda_, its plaza, and a court for playing _pelota_, a kind of
+tennis, the game of the province. There are frequent _casas solares_,[1]
+or family manor houses; one of these I remember wedged in with its
+neighbors, in Azcoitia, unnoticed by the guide book, only by chance we
+looked up and found it looming above the narrow pavement; blackened with
+age and scarred as if crashed with blows of warring times, it was a
+speaking record of old Basque life. In any other country but Spain, the
+carelessly rich and unrecorded, such a fortress-house would be a lion in
+the district,--from this very unexpectedness Spanish travel is of
+unflagging charm. The strong primitive Guipúzcoans cling to their
+patriarchal customs. The men and boys sit before their doors making the
+cord soles used in peasants' shoes; the women in groups of twenty or
+more, wash clothes in the public trough or down by the river. The
+industry of all is unflagging. The roads are among the best built in
+Spain, along them go creaking carts, each wheel made of a solid block of
+wood bound in iron and emitting a prolonged agonizing squeak. The
+cream-colored oxen that drag them have their yokes covered with
+sheepskin, another century-old custom. The carts sometimes carry
+pigskins filled with wine, three legs in the air, and the unique casks
+are mended with a kind of pitch that lends a disagreeable flavor to the
+wine, but these highlanders will not yield an old usage.
+
+No sooner did we cross the _Puente Internacional_ that connects France
+with its neighbors over the Bidassoa River--scene of historic
+meetings--than we found ourselves in the wooded Basque provinces of the
+northern Pyrenees. The country was fertile, the small farms cultivated
+with activity; on the hills were heavily-laden chestnut trees, in the
+valleys, orchards: we often passed trainloads of red apples carried
+unpacked in the open cars like coal. Not far from the frontier the train
+skirted what appeared to be an inland lake surrounded by hills, when
+suddenly I noticed an ocean steamer and some fishing smacks lying at
+anchor, and looking closer I saw that a narrow passage led through the
+hills to the ocean breaking outside,--another of Spain's unheralded
+effects. This was the beautiful inland Bay of Pasajes, the port from
+which young Lafayette sailed for America.
+
+At San Sebastián, the most fashionable summer resort in Spain, and still
+gay with Madrid people, for the season holds till October, we saw the
+first bull-ring, a circular building of red and yellow brick in the
+Moorish style. To find a _plaza de toros_ here in the north was
+disconcerting. Spain's national game has withstood the will of kings,
+Papal bulls, the dislike of a large proportion of the Spanish people who
+petitioned the Cortes in 1878 for its abolishment, and the odium of
+foreign races. Until this debased _cosa de España_ is done away with it
+will remain a stumbling block to even the most sympathetic of travelers.
+
+At Irún, the frontier town behind us, we had taken our tickets for
+Zumárraga, two hours away. There we were to leave the railway and drive
+into the valleys to Loyola, where in an old castle the hidalgo
+vizcaíno, Don Iñigo de Loyola, was born. Our guide book gave but the
+slightest information. It was raining drearily. With trepidation and
+sinking hearts we looked out at Zumárraga as the train drew near. Would
+this, the first night in Spain, cold and wet, be spent in some miserable
+tavern in a town of a thousand inhabitants, and perhaps the next morning
+would a rickety diligence take us up the valley? We stepped from the
+train reluctantly; at the last minute we were tempted to turn back. But
+a porter had seized our valises, and muttering something
+incomprehensible about Loyola and an automobile hurried us through the
+station. And there, beyond, stood the wonderful thing, sign manual of
+modern comfort--a great red automobile with a gallant chauffeur! We sat
+down on our luggage and burst into a hearty laugh. It began to dawn on
+us that perhaps the tour of Spain was not going to be the series of
+hardships and privations we anticipated.
+
+For the sum of three pesetas each (fifty-four cents) we were whirled up
+the winding valley. The mountains rose precipitously from the road and
+its accompanying river, reminding me of the valley in the Pistoiese
+Apennines that leads down to the Bagni di Lucca. In the motor diligence
+with us were a few courteous Basques; an elderly architect, with the
+finely-chiseled features of the country, pointed out a sight here and
+there, among others the birthplace and statue of Legazpi, conqueror of
+the Philippines. I think he took us for countrywomen of his young queen,
+and, trying to emulate his politeness, we were silent as to our
+nationality; later we discovered that this was quite unnecessary, for
+there is not the slightest prejudice in Spain against the United States.
+We passed a building by the river and were told it was an electric
+power-house; almost every part of the country is now lighted by
+electricity. "You are very up-to-date!" we exclaimed. He replied by a
+shrug of delighted self-depreciation, a proud smile of conscious
+superiority aping the humble, not out of place in a Basque whose
+mysterious language Adam spoke, so ancient and difficult a tongue that
+the devil who once tried to learn it, they say, had to give up in
+despair. Our opposite neighbors in the diligence, countrymen whose loss
+of teeth made them appear aged, sought also to show some courtesy. Each
+wayside shrine was named with glistening eyes,--St. Anthony; the
+hermitage on the hill above, St. Augustine; here, St. John. One began to
+understand religion was no mere Sunday morning service with this people.
+
+After six miles the valley opened out and we came to Azcoitia, a town of
+some five thousand inhabitants where is manufactured the _bóina_, the
+typical cap of the province. The automobile went slowly through the
+narrow cobbled streets, under the high houses and the cliff-like church,
+then sped over two miles of a beautiful valley, with mountain rising
+behind mountain in the evening light, and at length we reached Loyola.
+
+Here one of the great discoverers of new strength, of untried powers in
+the human soul, one of the holiest men of Christendom, saw the light in
+1491, the year before the discovery of America: in the life of St.
+Ignatius are several coincidental dates to give us pause. Surely it was
+to these peaceful Basque hills that his thoughts turned when, a knight
+in the worldly court that surrounded Ferdinand and his second wife
+Germaine de Foix, Ignatius in gazing at the stars would feel with sudden
+potency the pettiness of man's grandeur, and during his religious life,
+when he craved at the sunset hour to be alone to meditate, he must have
+recalled this lovely valley of his birth. With emotion I saw in the
+distance the huge quadrangle of the convent that now surrounds the
+_Santa Casa_: the thought of what this spot has given to the world, of
+the thousands of chosen souls linked to-day by one will to work for good
+in every land, can well make Loyola a place to stir the heart.
+
+At a little past six we left the automobile which was to run farther up
+the valley, and a porter from the inn led us through the park the
+Jesuits have planted for the people. The _Hospedería de Loyola_ was a
+large building with a porticoed entrance at right angles to the convent,
+more like a monastery than a hotel, with polished staircase and
+corridors, neat bare rooms, and a long white refectory. The table was
+excellent, one course followed another at the one o'clock luncheon and
+the eight o'clock dinner. There was fresh fish from San Sebastián (to
+which daily another motor diligence ran), there were home-made
+preserves, and we had our first taste of the universal _garbanzos_[2] of
+Spain, a chickpea shaped like a ram's head. The waitress, the first of
+many Carmens and Dolores, was a wonderful old woman who grew so intent
+on teaching us her language that she would insistently repeat the name
+of each dish she passed. She managed to convey to us by pantomime, for
+our Spanish as yet was of the meagerest, that there were eight ladies
+from Madrid in the hotel, living upstairs in retirement as they were
+making a Retreat. They had come last Saturday;--talk, talk, talk,--and
+the animated little woman gesticulated to show. Then the Retreat
+began,--did we know what "the Exercises" were? Off she walked with bowed
+head and downcast eyes. So it would be all week. The next Monday we
+should see them, they would come to table with us, and it would be talk,
+talk, talk again. During the week we occasionally saw a lady in black,
+her head covered with a veil, cross from the hotel to the _Santa Casa_
+where the meditations were held. In the convent the Jesuits were
+conducting another Retreat attended by fifty men from different Spanish
+cities: these lived in the seminary with the priests.
+
+At table with us were some Spanish people of a kind the tourist does not
+usually meet. One of them, a deeply religious man from Barcelona, on his
+first visit to the _Santa Casa_, following the example of St. Francis
+Borgia, knelt to kiss the floor of the room in which the patron of the
+Basques was born. Another, an elderly woman fond of lace and jewels, and
+probably longing for the gayeties of San Sebastián, was waiting in this
+quiet spot while her daughter made the Retreat. When the eight days were
+ended we met this daughter, a beautiful girl with the charm of manner
+and quickness of intelligence that we found as a rule among Spanish
+women. The afternoon the two Retreats closed was a pleasant sight. The
+valley was fragrant from the rain, on the mountains the chalets stood
+out strangely near in the clear air. Carriages and touring-cars rolled
+up, pretty wives to fetch their husbands to claim their wives. All were
+happy and natural, but one felt around one the atmosphere of the higher
+things of life, an exaltation that only religion can give. Religion is
+ineradicably woven into the every-day life of this race: a Spaniard is
+half mystic by inheritance. The power to understand the spiritual is not
+the gift of a few but of all. It gives to the peasant woman, to the
+uncouth lad serving Mass, an intelligence above themselves.[3] Before
+the late dinner that last evening in Loyola, a tall Spanish woman with
+her four daughters automobiled over from San Sebastián; she came to join
+her husband who had been following the "Exercises." He now sat with us
+at table, a man of the grave dignity and fine presence we were later to
+meet frequently. That night when passing through the corridors we heard
+the sounds of prayer in their rooms, the wife and children making the
+responses to the man's deeper voice.
+
+The convent of Loyola is the center of civilization for the countryside.
+All day there is a ceaseless come and go to the church, or to the
+_Santa Casa_ for silent prayer. At one each day troops of children go to
+the door of the convent with baskets and tins, and food is given them to
+carry to the aged and decrepit of the town. An hour later some dozens of
+lads in blue smock and _bóina_, playing their ceaseless _pelota_, flock
+into the building for a half hour of _doctrina_. Then at three the young
+novices come out gayly for their ramble over the mountains and as they
+pass before the church each instantly removes his hat as walking they
+repeat together a prayer. Happy those whose formative years are passed
+in hardy discipline among these uncontaminated Basque hills! The
+peasants of the valley, when the bell sounds the hours, pause to remove
+their caps in salutation. Every morning they cross the fields from
+Azpeitia on the raised path beside the river, or they come from
+Azcoitia, two miles down the valley, to attend the morning services. No
+one who has not seen a Spanish priest's attitude of devotion can
+understand its appealing beauty. These Jesuits and their attendant young
+novices (there are about two hundred students in the seminary) approach
+the altar with solemn reverence, without a trace of self-consciousness,
+and slowly and beautifully say the Mass. "The Jesuit seems to love God
+from pure inclination, out of admiration, gratitude, tenderness, for the
+pleasure of loving Him," wrote that subtle critic, Joubert: "In their
+books of devotion you find joy because with them nature and religion go
+hand in hand." A Basque congregation is worthy of such ministers. All
+kneel without bench or chair, the men on folded handkerchiefs, the women
+on the circular straw mats scattered over the pavement. We were
+fortunate enough to attend a late Benediction, not a customary service
+in Spain as we found later. The thrilled exaltation of the singing in
+which all joined, the aged as well as children, is impossible to
+describe. It was a triumphant full-hearted adoration trying to voice the
+inexpressible; the organ ran riot, strained to its utmost, to accompany
+the ecstatic singing.
+
+Every Sunday the peasants drive in from the mountains to attend the
+afternoon service, and after it they stand to chat for a placid hour on
+the wide steps of the church. Arm in arm the young girls stroll up and
+down in the park before the convent. I looked on at this scene of
+contentment that told of frugal, upright living, with the sad thought of
+France deprived of such wholesome beauty, of the peasants round the
+Grande-Chartreuse, poverty-stricken and desolate since the industrial
+monastery was closed. Happily for the future of Spain, she has at hand a
+neighbor to give her the lesson in time.
+
+The convent of Loyola was built by the Austrian wife of Philip IV to
+enclose and preserve the _Santa Casa_, and it was by her presented to
+the Jesuits. The church whose dome overtops the convent is in imitation
+of the Pantheon. Unfortunately, as are most Jesuit churches in Europe,
+it was erected in a bad period, and overloaded with ornament. The
+Company of Jesus was not founded until the golden age of architecture
+was well past; Churriguera, archmaster of bad taste, was in vogue when
+they built. But at Loyola if the twisted pillars of decorated marble are
+hideous, the ample flowing staircase that leads to the church is a
+beautiful feature, reminiscent of Italian villas.
+
+The soul of the valley is naturally the _Santa Casa_ itself, the _casa
+solar_ of the saint's fore-fathers. The lower story is of rough-hewn
+stone, and once the whole building was the same, but a jealous king
+leveled the fortress-houses of the Basque nobles and the upper stories
+were rebuilt in ancient brick. Above the entrance door the arms of the
+family are carved, two wolves and a pot. The tradition is that the
+knights of Loyola were so generous to their retainers that even the
+wolves came to share their hospitality. In many of the rooms daily
+Masses are said; the four stories have been inlaid with mosaic, carved
+wood, and gold leaf, the gifts of devotees of the Basque patron. One
+room is pointed out as the saint's before his conversion, another as
+the one in which St. Francis Borgia said his first Mass, giving up a
+brilliant career, as viceroy, admiral, Duke of Gandía by inheritance,
+favorite of Charles V, to consecrate himself to the service of the
+altar. At this memorable Mass he gave communion to one of his sons,
+married to an inheritor of the _Santa Casa_, a niece of St. Ignatius. So
+many were the communicants another day that the Mass lasted from nine to
+three. Such rare instances of Christian perfection make the ancient
+house a chosen spot.
+
+The story of St. Ignatius' life is told throughout his _casa solar_. On
+the staircase is a window showing him as a courtier. He was skilled in
+knightly exercises, fond of the saddle and equally fond of rich attire:
+good-looking, high-spirited, truthful, and brave, he was a favorite with
+his soldiers. The scene of his wounding at the siege of Pamplona is
+given; he lies on the ground with his leg shattered. A long year of
+convalescence followed, and we see him reading the books that wrought
+his marvelous change of heart. He sought the monastery of Montserrat,
+above Barcelona, to beg counsel of a learned man concerning the vocation
+he felt within him. His military training made him dream of forming a
+spiritual knighthood to battle for the salvation of souls: "Company of
+Jesus" is a military term. At Montserrat he performed the vigil of the
+armor, like a true knight watching till dawn before the altar; then
+exchanging his fine robes with a beggar he went forth, "_el pobre ignoto
+peregrin_." In a cave of Manresa he lived in seclusion and prayer,
+verifying on himself in agony of spirit the knowledge which was later to
+guide the troubled souls of others who sought light. "His experience in
+this solitude was an epitome of the psychology of the saints; and it
+smote him all the more intimately because he was utterly without
+foreknowledge of the spiritual life, and fought out his fight alone,
+like the first Fathers of the Desert." In the cave of Manresa was forged
+his Excalibur (to use again the vivid phrase of Francis Thompson, own
+brother to Crashaw in his flashes of celestial intuition), there
+originated the "Spiritual Exercises," the work used to-day in the
+Retreats. "It has converted more souls to God," wrote St. Francis de
+Sales, "than it contains letters."
+
+Eighteen years were to pass before St. Ignatius founded his Order. They
+were years filled with wanderings in Spain and Europe, a student at
+universities, a humble but joyous pilgrim to Jerusalem. One day while he
+was reading the eighteenth chapter of St. Luke the words, "And they
+understood none of these things" brought before him with sudden force
+the realization of his own untrained mind, the fact that he must be
+educated himself before he could help others. So at thirty this
+remarkable man began his scholastic studies in Barcelona, in Cardinal
+Ximenez's famous university of Alcalá, in Salamanca. One day, in the
+streets of Alcalá, as he was led to prison on a false accusation, the
+proud young grandee of Gandía passed him. This was the first sight
+Francis Borgia had of the man who later was to lead his life. Then
+followed some years of study in Paris. 1530 found him in London at the
+time of the agitation of Henry VIII's divorce from Catherine of Aragon,
+again a coincidence in Ignatius' life that he should visit at this
+critical moment the land soon to desert a church for which he was
+destined to raise so powerful a defense. There was another notable
+Spaniard in England then, not a humble summer student begging his way
+like the Basque hidalgo, but a scholar of Corpus Christi College,
+distinguished and lauded, to attend whose lectures the King and Queen
+used sometimes to spend a few days in Oxford. This was Juan Luis de
+Vives, born in the great year 1492, the precursor of Bacon and
+Descartes, a man of such vast erudition and impartial judgment that he
+has been called with Erasmus and the French prodigy, Budé, the intellect
+of his century. Vives stood forth courageously as defender of his
+country-woman when the divorce question arose; he was imprisoned for a
+short time, forfeited his position and pension, and finally left England
+altogether.
+
+Loyola now took his degree as Master of Arts in Paris, and gathering
+round him some young men of earnest life--among them the future apostle
+and martyr in the East, St. Francis Xavier from Navarre--the memorable
+band of seven students made the vows of poverty and chastity in the
+crypt of a church on Montmartre on the Feast of the Assumption, 1534.
+Thirty years later the remembrance of that hour made one of the seven,
+Rodríguez, feel his heart swell with ineffable consolation. Literally
+these ardent souls fulfilled the letter of the Gospel for the way of
+perfection: "If thou wilt be perfect go sell what thou hast, and give to
+the poor." "If any man will come after me let him deny himself, and take
+up his cross and follow me." "Ye shall be hated of all men for my name's
+sake." Their founder with superhuman perspicacity prayed it might be so.
+The world's hate is their alembic of purification.
+
+Ignatius returned to Spain to arrange with Xavier's family--he also was
+of the northern mountain race of Spain--and with the kindred of three
+others of his followers. He crossed the Pyrenees by footpaths, and
+descending to his own valley of Loyola preached down by the river in
+Azpeitia. Later in Italy the band of Montmartre met again, working in
+hospitals, preaching, and converting souls to God. It was in Venice,
+many years after his wounding at Pamplona, that Ignatius Loyola was at
+length ordained priest, and in Rome, in the church of Santa Maria
+Maggiore said his first Mass. When the projects of the small band were
+submitted to the Pope, he had the inspired wisdom to discern in humble
+beginnings a future great movement and exclaimed: "_Digitus Dei est
+hic!_"--truly the finger of God. The new Order approved, Loyola was
+elected its general; like a military company, the first law was the
+unhesitating obedience of the soldier to his leader, the unbreakable
+power that lies in many working as one. The _Compañía_ spread over the
+world, reforming monasteries, giving help to the poor, persuading the
+rich to purer lives, reconciling husbands and wives. Within a few years
+Francis Borgia gave up his dukedom to join them, and his accession
+brought to the Order many Spaniards of high rank. The founder continued
+to live in Italy between Rome at the Gesù and Tivoli: he died in Rome in
+1556.
+
+In the _Santa Casa_ we followed this remarkable life in scene after
+scene. There is a touching picture of the grown man at school among
+lads half his age, of the crypt of Montmartre, and of the final scene
+in Rome. His face was said by St. Philip Neri to have shone with
+compelling personality. In speech he was grave and admirable, a
+never-tiring student of the Bible; that, and the "Imitation of Christ"
+were the only books he much valued. "To see Father Ignatius was like
+reading a chapter of the 'Imitation,'" they used to say of him.
+
+We lingered for some days in the beautiful Basque valley, following the
+winding paths among the mountains, loitering in the two little towns
+near by in the pleasant discovery of rare old windows and portals. Most
+of the houses had a picture of the Saviour on the entrance door. Each
+new-born child is brought to the parish church of Azpeitia where St.
+Ignatius was baptized, and each boy is called by his name, though only
+the eldest in a family has the privilege of using it. The saint's hymn
+is the national hymn of the Basques.
+
+It was a raw autumn morning when we left Loyola. The light was just
+filling the valleys as we passed the sweeping steps of the church up
+which the peasants were mounting to beg a blessing on their working
+hours. The influence of their loved patron is as vivid as if he had
+lived but yesterday, so truly can one human mind, touched by divine
+grace, with no thought of self, in sublime earnestness, rouse mankind
+to shake off its apathy, to aspire to the highest. If only another such
+knight might arise to-day to fight the modern battle of Christianity!
+
+
+
+
+BURGOS AND THE CID
+
+     "The epochs in which faith prevails are the marked epochs of human
+     history, full of heart-stirring memories and of substantial gains
+     for all after times. The epochs in which unbelief prevails, even
+     when for the moment they put on the semblance of glory and success,
+     inevitably sink into insignificance in the eyes of posterity which
+     will not waste its thoughts on things barren and
+     unfruitful."--GOETHE.
+
+
+Passing through the fertile Basque valleys, the train mounts the
+Pyrenees by a series of skillfully-engineered tunnels. This natural
+barrier between France and Spain, is far from being the straight rampart
+of school geographies. It is a wide expanse of ramifying hills and
+intricate valleys, a jumble of mountains that explains why Spain
+remained isolated from northern Europe until the days of the railway.
+
+When we reached the crest of this watershed between the Bay of Biscay
+and the Mediterranean, we had a noble view of the villages far beneath.
+Around us was a strange outcrop of white rock, and the descent to
+Vitoria was barren too: with every mile the scene grew bleaker till the
+rustling woods of the Basque valleys behind seemed a dream.
+
+Beyond Miranda, the first town of old Castile, the desolate scene
+appeared in its full awfulness. The plain lay like brown dunes of sand,
+"as for the grass, it grew as scant as hair in leprosy." It was indeed
+the haunting landscape of "Childe Roland." Passing over this wide
+stretch, the train again mounted, this time not to cross another range
+of hills, but to climb to the great truncated mountain which forms the
+center of Spain. Three-fourths of the area of this imagined orange-laden
+land is this tragic central plateau, comprising Old and New Castile,
+León, and Estremadura. Most of the historic cities are on this bleak
+upland, almost 3,000 feet above the sea, wind-swept, wintry, and made
+still colder by the snow mountains that cross it from east to west.
+Riding for days through the monotonous scene you begin to wonder not
+that Spain should be poor, but rather that she, an agricultural land,
+should have made so good a fight against such heavy odds. The guide
+books that so harshly criticise, saying hers is a land where Nature has
+lavished her prodigalities of soil and climate yet shiftless man has
+refused her bounty, seem to forget that only one-fourth of the country
+is the traditional rich south. The fruitful provinces form but the
+fringe of the Peninsula.
+
+It was early October when we mounted the Pass of Pancorbo. A fierce wind
+was blowing. It suddenly blew open the door of our compartment, and
+flung it back, smashing the glass. It was impossible to draw it to in
+the fierce gale, and this little incident added to the desolation round
+us. We looked down through the open door on the white road of the Pass,
+over which Napoleon's armies poured a hundred years before to plunder
+Spain with ruthless cruelty, and yet, so hidden is the guidance of
+things, that seeming disaster waked the country from its long abasement.
+
+Having reached the great central steppes, the same melancholy scene
+continued. The land was scorched and calcined. Everything was a dull
+brown. Villages were undistinguishable from the plain, and the churches
+from the villages; man, his ass, and his dog, were all the same dull
+tone. Even the brown deserts of Egypt failed to give me as powerful a
+sensation of the forsaken. The plateau was treeless, except for an
+occasional wind-threshed poplar, and an isolated moth-eaten poplar can
+be the final touch of desolation. At times, miles from any village, a
+solitary figure guided his oxen and plow in a stony field, or
+silhouetted against the sky a tandem of five or six mules slowly crawled
+along. Since the villages are far apart, each worker must leave his home
+long before dawn to reach his distant field, and after sunset plod back
+patiently to the _aldea_.
+
+Forlorn as it all appeared one saw that every inch of the soil was
+under cultivation. The peasants are as attached to their cheerless
+tract, which has its one hour of green bloom in the spring, as are the
+Basques to their beautiful valleys. The fields are passed from father to
+son, and are acquired with the same zest as are teeming English farms; a
+stern soil and still sterner climate has made a peasantry full of grit
+and courage. Hardy and undepressed they gathered round the train with
+pleasant greetings, for the long pauses in the stations are moments of
+sociability from one end of Spain to another. The sad landscape
+continued up to Burgos, one might say to its very gates if it were not
+that the townspeople have planted avenues of trees near the city.
+
+As we approached we had a splendid view of the Cathedral towers
+dominating the town. There was something magnificent in the souls of the
+old builders who made a temple such as this in the midst of a desert, as
+if they defied the arid desolation to conquer their soaring faith. The
+great structure rose doubly impressive from the juxtaposition of
+richness and sterility, of the spirit's triumph over the material that
+makes Burgos as impressive in its way as Toledo with its more imposing
+setting.
+
+[Illustration: _Copyright, 1910 by Underwood & Underwood_
+
+BURGOS CATHEDRAL FROM THE CASTLE HILL]
+
+"_Nuestro país es el país de las anomalías_" says the critic De Larra,
+and the first step in Spain strikes this note. She is a land of
+violent contrasts; level plain and broken sierra, elysian garden of
+Andalusia and tractless wastes of Castile, frosty Burgos and sunny
+Seville. She is the home of the hidalgo and home of the strongest
+existing democracy between man and man, only equaled by early Rome. It
+was in Burgos we first noticed what we later saw frequently, the
+_labrador_ who drove his master's carriage, enter the inn with him and
+sit at the same table to eat, master and man alike in their dignity. She
+has a peasantry beyond praise for its virile industry, and she has a
+class of city loafers the idlest that ever encumbered a plaza. Cradle of
+exalted mystics and mother of realistic painters, this land of racy
+personalities never allows one's interest to flag.
+
+We spent a week in Burgos, and not once did the sun shine. The cold was
+piercing. At the corner of every street a biting wind seized and
+buffeted one about; besides being on a mountain, there are still higher
+mountains near, and snow has been known to fall in June. Wind and cold,
+however, were soon forgotten once inside the Cathedral. Our first visit
+was within the hour of arrival, at dusk when details were hidden. The
+great temple rose around us mysterious and awe inspiring. Though almost
+with the first breath of wonder came a sense of bewilderment,--what was
+this heavy wall rising some thirty feet in the center of the church,
+that hid the altar and blocked up the nave so that only an encircling
+aisle was left free? So confusing was it I could not at first tell by
+what door we had entered, where was the east, where was the west end?
+
+Books of travel all tell of this placing of the choir, or _coro_, in the
+nave of Spanish cathedrals, but one can read them and imagine nothing
+like the reality. I had pictured an open platform running down the
+center of the church, whereas high walls are built round the _coro_ as
+well as round the _capilla mayor_, thus making a smaller church within a
+larger one. Wherever the inner church opens on the other, they have
+placed a towering metal screen called a _reja_. A narrow passageway,
+fenced by an open rail, usually runs from the altar enclosure to the
+_coro_, and the people gather close to this, under the transept-crossing
+tower; thus, practically, the priest at the altar and the canons
+chanting in the choir are separated by the congregation. It is hard to
+make the picture clear. I feel that no explanation can prevent this
+arrangement of Spanish cathedrals coming as a surprise to the traveler.
+
+The evening of our first visit, we wandered round in the dusk bewildered
+by the blocking _coro_, and at length entered the chapel of St. Anne,
+where a service was going on. The side chapels of Burgos are churches in
+themselves, they often belong to private individuals, this of St. Anne
+being, for instance, the property of the Duke of Abrantes. It was now
+crowded with people of all kinds,--officers in uniform, a few ladies in
+hats but the bulk of the women in black veils. From a small balcony on
+one side the litany was sung.
+
+Before the altar was what appeared to be a black covered bier, so I
+thought we must have stumbled on some special service for the dead. This
+would account for so large a gathering on a weekday, for at first one
+fails to grasp the every-day religious attitude of the Spaniard. Looking
+closer at the bier before the lighted altar a human figure was outlined
+under the dark pall. How displeasing, I thought, not to use a coffin!
+
+Suddenly the head of this recumbent figure unmistakably moved. With a
+shiver I looked round me. No one appeared to notice what was to me so
+terrifying, yet they were gazing over the bier at the altar. Strange
+visions floated through my imagination, made up of memories of Charles
+V's funeral before his death, and of contorted accounts of Spain and her
+ways. Perhaps it was not an unusual custom here, thus morbidly to sample
+beforehand one's own funeral service. Then, as the litanies continued,
+now the solo from the choir, now the full-voiced responses of the
+people, I realized these sweet evening melodies could hardly be the
+dirges of a burial. The supposition of a living corpse was too bizarre
+in the midst of this composed crowd.
+
+I fastened my eyes on the round head of the bier, and again it moved,
+but this time so thoroughly moved that the mystery was solved. With a
+breath of relief I knew this was indeed a quiet evening service and what
+had seemed a bier was merely one of the many marble tombs before the
+altars of old churches, covered over with a dark mantle as they
+sometimes are. What I had imagined the round head of a corpse, or future
+corpse, was the veil-draped head of a living woman, seated on a higher
+chair than usual between the tomb and the lighted altar. So ended my
+first and only romantic episode in Spain.
+
+I mention it as showing with what vague notions of terror the average
+English-speaking tourist enters this harmless land. He comes full of the
+prejudices inherited from the days of the Invincible Armada, when a
+Spaniard was to an Englishman his satanic majesty incarnate, and this in
+an age of which Froude himself, the enthusiastic chronicler of Drake,
+says: "Perhaps nowhere on earth was there a finer average of
+distinguished and cultivated society than in the provincial Castilian
+cities."
+
+Strange how tenaciously we cling to disproved ideas, I thought, as the
+next day we examined the beautiful tomb of Bishop Acuña which had
+caused my fright. Spain is as safe to-day as any civilized country. Yet
+we met two Californian ladies traveling with pistols, about as needed
+here as firearms in the lanes of Surrey or the brigand-infested hills of
+Massachusetts. Little by little the traveler who keeps an open mind
+learns that the cruel and morbid Spaniard of the popular fancy has no
+existence except in his imagination. Unfortunately there will always be
+some travelers here who see the heads on death biers move and carry away
+the gruesome tale to swell the old prejudices, who will not wait long
+enough nor look deep enough to find their living corpse a noble old
+bishop in alabaster who has lain in peace some hundred years.
+
+Every day of our week in Burgos found us several times in the Cathedral.
+I used to arrive for the High Mass at nine, though before daybreak until
+nine there had been many services in the side chapels; it is still the
+custom with most Spaniards to kneel in recollection every morning.
+Strangely enough, I soon grew reconciled to the clumsy _coro_. It
+enabled the people to approach close to the altar in a peaceful secluded
+spot. Here at Burgos one can kneel on the altar's very steps, beside the
+big sanctuary lamp and the silver candlesticks that rise higher than a
+man. The onlooking tourist, who often spoils Italian churches for those
+who go to pray not to sightsee, in Spain is not permitted his ill-timed
+liberty. He can wander freely through the outer cathedral, but during
+the Mass, he cannot enter this inner temple unless he conforms to the
+accustomed usages. All must kneel at the moment of the Elevation or else
+leave. The lesson was taught us soon, for when the first morning in
+Burgos a lady near by in the chancel inadvertently began to read in her
+guide book, a verger in red plush cloak, bearing an authoritative silver
+staff, approached, and kindly but firmly showed her out.
+
+The richness of Spanish cathedrals at first is overpowering, that they
+are too rich and overloaded is a criticism which is quite justified, but
+it is the profusion of strength, not the cluttering of details to hide a
+weak understructure; it is a profusion that speaks the nation's
+character, her burning faith, her oriental generosity. In antique
+silver, jewels, vestments, wood carvings, tombs, they are veritable
+museums of art. A Spaniard has given generously to the church in all
+ages. Though even when prosperous he is content to live with a frugal
+simplicity hardly understood by our luxury-loving time, it is a law of
+his nature that his ideas of grandeur and of beauty should find their
+free expression in the House of God. I often had the sensation that the
+beggar kneeling in these truly royal churches felt himself a part of
+them; his own poor home was but one side of the picture, he could claim
+this other home as well.
+
+It was at Burgos we first met in the churches minor features that are
+essentially Spanish. The organ pipes flare out like trumpets; the
+reredos, or _retablo_, made up of carved wood panels, rises sometimes to
+a hundred feet behind the altar; and there is the metal-work of the
+great screens or _rejas_. This last was an art _de propia España_, and
+her churches would lack half their sublimity without the massive
+fretwork of iron or brass that shuts in the richly-decked altars. At
+Burgos we especially noticed the _reja_ of the Condestable chapel, with
+graceful wind-blown figures at the top. In the choir, round the lectern
+were piled ancient psalm books, some of them three feet high, their
+calfskin covers strengthened with metal claspings. The naturalness with
+which these priceless books are treated shows how happily bound to
+preceding generations, with no break of revolution and destruction, is
+this old land. This thought of the antiquity of her usages is a very
+potent one to every Spaniard, and the stranger too finds the purple
+robed canons chanting in their choir-stalls more impressive because for
+six hundred years in this same Cathedral they have intoned daily these
+same psalms.
+
+Another national talent is her carving in wood. The choir-stalls here
+were a revelation. The masters of this art, Berruguete, Vigarni,
+Montañés, may not be known to the rest of Europe, but they are locally
+very famous. Their intense realism appeals to the popular mind, and
+though in later centuries this realism degenerated into the bad taste of
+hanging the statues with robes, enough of earlier art remains to make
+one overlook these lapses. Should not a poet be judged by his best
+lines? Why must an image in wig and jewels blind one to the remarkable
+carved statues found side by side with it?
+
+The wood carvers of Spain speak the same language of sincerity as the
+mystic writers, and a knowledge of Luis de León, St. John of the Cross
+and St. Teresa, makes one better appreciate the sculptors. Not that they
+too are mystical. They do not soar so high. It is only a few chosen
+souls here and there through the centuries who can walk that perilous
+path, and probably they can express themselves only through the more
+intangible medium of speech. But these wood carvings are the fruit of
+men who understood the mystics and who worked in a like spirit of
+intense faith. I should say it was not in her paintings that the
+religious essence of this race was to be found, not in the somewhat
+posing monks of Zurbaran, nor in the gentle religiosity of Murillo's
+madonnas. Though a master of color, Murillo is too often akin in spirit
+to Carlo Dolce and Sassoferrato. It is the fashion to call these
+typically religious painters. But in the carved biblical scenes of
+_retablo_ and _sillería_ is shown more truly the inner spiritual
+intelligence of the serious Spaniard. Velasquez spoke for the reality of
+his time, its chivalry, its material force; and these masters of wood
+carving in more halting speech expressed the religious aspirations of
+the people. They worked with a realism that is often painful, yet the
+intensity with which they felt the scenes they depicted links them with
+the mystics. The wood carvings have not had justice done them, perhaps
+because they are for the most part painted, which certainly detracts
+from them. Fortunately choir-stalls were left in the natural wood, those
+at Burgos being a rich dark walnut with the polish that time only can
+give. We spent many happy hours studying this twelve years' work of the
+sculptor Vigarni. The seats are carved with grotesque, fantastic
+creatures, half man, half beast, the arm of the chair now made by an
+acrobat bent double backward, now by a monster with a tail in his mouth,
+or some bat-like demon. There is a frieze of Old Testament scenes too
+high to be well seen, but below them the New Testament story is told
+from the Annunciation to the Doubting Thomas after the Resurrection.
+Though the simpleness of earlier times is shown in the miniature devil
+that passes from the possessed man's lips, and in Mary Magdalene's
+dropped jaw of surprise when she meets her risen Lord, these carvings
+are not merely curious, they are soul-touching and beautiful. The type
+of face is the high-boned one the Spaniard prefers, with well-cut brows
+and aquiline nose. Notice the solemn beauty of Christ's face in the _qui
+ci ne pecato_. In the panel, the blind cured, seldom has the expression
+of absolute faith been better rendered than in the raised face of the
+old blind man. Do not pass by the Garden of Gethsemane with the three
+Apostles lying heavily asleep, the human shrug of the shoulder and
+outstretched hand of the Master: "Could ye not watch with me one hour?"
+
+While the Cathedral of Burgos shows much florid later work, especially
+the central tower and that of the Condestable chapel, under the too
+ornate additions the ancient purer church is plainly perceptible. It
+belonged to the Gothic of the Northern-France type, for pilgrims to her
+shrines and to fight in her crusades, brought foreign ideas to Spain at
+so early a date that it is useless to speculate about what a native
+architecture might have been.
+
+Some of the smaller churches of the town are worth visiting, such as San
+Nicolás, with a stone _retablo_ which is a tour de force of handicraft;
+San Lermes, and facing it the hospital of San Juan, where we first met
+the escutcheoned doorways of Spain, which, if kept within bounds, are
+arrogantly effective and national. Throughout the city are good examples
+of domestic architecture, such as the Casa del Cordón, built by the
+Constable of Castile, Don Pedro Fernández de Velasco, whose sumptuous
+tomb lies in the center of the Condestable Chapel, and whose pride as a
+Castilian speaks in the family proverb:
+
+    "_Antes que Dios fuese Dios,_
+     _O que el sol iluminaba los peñascos,_
+     _Ya era noble la casa de los Vélascos._"
+
+"Before God was God, or the sun shone upon the rocks, already was the
+house of Velasco noble."[4] Above the entrance to his house the girdle
+of St. Francis connects his arms with those of his wife, as proud as he,
+for she was a Mendoza. One rainy afternoon we spent in the _Museo_ over
+the Gateway of Santa María, and there, step by step, traced Spain's art
+history,--statues from the former Roman city of Clunia in this
+province, a remarkable enameled altar-front of the Byzantine period,
+Romanesque and Gothic relics from the monasteries out on the plains, a
+Moorish arch found _in situ_, and tombs of that transition time from
+Gothic to Renaissance which in Spain was so flourishing a phase of art.
+
+Much as there is to hold one in the town, the bleak uplands outside have
+a desolate fascination that calls one out to them. There is an excursion
+to be made not far away to the Monastery of Miraflores, where Isabella
+built for her parents "the most perfectly glorious tomb in the world."
+Personally I prefer the quieter art of a Mino da Fiesole to this work of
+Gil de Siloe, rich though it is. The tomb is white marble, octagonal in
+shape, with sixteen lions supporting it. The weak Juan II lies by the
+side of his queen, who is turned slightly from him to read in her Book
+of Hours, in a natural attitude, as if she said pleasantly, "Now do be
+silent, I must read in peace for a few minutes." At Miraflores is a
+wooden statue of St. Bruno, with a keen and subtle face of the same
+ascetic type as that of the young monk we watched praying quite
+oblivious of the gaping tourists. It is of this statue that Philip IV
+remarked: "It does not speak, but only because he is a Carthusian monk."
+The indifference to strangers in the mystic young penitent before the
+altar was our second meeting with a trait found in the average
+Spaniard. He does not care an iota what the stranger thinks of him. He
+is not like the Italian, inclined to put his best foot forward. He will
+not change his ways because they are criticised; you can admire or you
+can dislike, it makes little difference to him; and this quiet poise, in
+peasant as well as grandee, is not fatuous, for its root lies in an
+innate self-respect. He feels he is loyal to his God, to his King, and
+to himself,--what better standards can you have?
+
+Avenues of trees lead out to another house of the Benedictine rule, a
+convent for nuns founded by the sister of Richard C[oe]ur de Lion. Many
+ladies of the royal line have retired to Las Huelgas, the nuns brought
+their dowries, and the mitered abbess held the rank of Princess-Palatine,
+with the power of capital punishment. The church has outside cloisters
+for the laity; the cloisters within the convent are never seen except on
+the rare occasions of a king's visit, when all who are able crowd in at
+the moment he enters. We were standing before the chancel where so many
+knights had performed the vigil of the armor--among others Edward I of
+England was knighted here--when a nun entered the _coro_, and in her
+trailing white robes bowed toward the altar--rather it was the slow
+courtesy of a court lady. We shrank away with the feeling that we had
+intruded uninvited on a ceremony, that the days of the abbess,
+Princess-Palatine, were the reality and we, inquisitive guide-book
+tourists, the anacronism, a sensation not uncommon in Spain.
+
+Burgos is the birthplace of the national hero, the Cid Campeador, "God's
+scourge upon the Moor." This contemporary of William the Conqueror, whom
+the erudites of the eighteenth century tried in vain to prove a mythical
+character,[5] may be said to dominate Spanish literature. Spain's epic,
+the "Romancero del Cid," has made its hero the historic Cid for all
+time, just as Shakespeare's genius vitalized a Henry V. Don Roderick
+Díaz de Bivar was born under the castle hill of Burgos in 1026, some
+small monuments standing on the site of his _casa solar_. He was a
+champion of popular rights, generous, chivalrous, faithful ever to his
+wife Jimena, a true guerrilla warrior, like the men of his age,
+sometimes crafty and cruel. The Cid was every inch a man, as his fellow
+countrymen are eminently _varonil_, his hold on the heart of the people
+is secure. There are no poems in the world whose lines ring and clang
+more valiantly than the "Romancero." Here is untamed red blood and
+courage:
+
+    "With bucklers braced before their breasts, with lances pointing low,
+     With stooping crests and heads bent down above the saddle-bow,
+     All firm of hand and high of heart, they roll upon the foe.
+     And he that in a good hour was born, his clarion voice rings out,
+     And clear above the clang of arms is heard his battle-shout,
+     'Among them, gentlemen! Strike home for love of charity!
+     The Champion of Bivar is here--Ruy Díaz--I am he!'
+     Then bearing where Bermúez still maintains unequal fight
+     Three hundred lances down they come, their pennons flickering white;
+     Down go three hundred Moors to earth, a man to every blow;
+     And when they wheel, three hundred more, as charging back they go.
+     It was a sight to see the lances rise and fall that day;
+     The shivered shields and riven mail, to see how thick they lay;
+     The pennons that went in snow-white came out a gory red;
+     The horses running riderless, the riders lying dead;
+     While Moors called on Mohammed, and 'St. James' the Christians cry."[6]
+
+Wandering minstrels sang these _chansons de gestes_ for centuries, till
+they were a very part of the nation. The wooing of Jimena is strong with
+the unconscious vigor of those times. The Cid had slain her father in
+combat:
+
+    "But when the fair Jimena came forth to plight her hand,
+     Rodrigo gazing on her, his face could not command;
+     He stood and blushed before her; then at the last said he,
+     'I slew thy sire, Jimena, but not in villany:
+     In no disguise I slew him, man against man I stood,
+     There was some wrong between us, and I did shed his blood.
+     I slew a man, I owe a man; fair lady, by God's grace,
+     An honored husband thou shalt have in thy dead father's place.'"
+
+And to the end the free-lance warrior proved a gallant husband. The
+ballad of their wedding feast was often in my mind in the silent streets
+of Burgos.
+
+    "Within his hall of Burgos the king prepares the feast,
+     He makes his preparation for many a noble guest,
+     It is a joyful city, it is a gallant day,
+     'Tis the Campeador's wedding, and who will bide away?
+
+     They have scattered olive branches and rushes on the street,
+     And the ladies flung down garlands at the Campeador's feet,
+     With tapestry and broidery their balconies between,
+     To do his bridal honor, their walls the burghers screen.
+
+     They lead the bulls before them all covered o'er with trappings,
+     The little boys pursue them with hootings and with clappings,
+     The fool with cap and bladder upon his ass goes prancing
+     Amid troops of captive maidens with bells and cymbals dancing."[7]
+
+The old poet must have written with his eye straight on his subject;
+those eleventh century urchins baiting the bulls are startlingly
+realistic. When the Cid died, at Valencia, in 1099, still called on the
+maps Valencia del Cid, he was placed in full armor on his battle horse,
+Bavieca, and brought to San Pedro de Cardeña, eight miles from Burgos.
+Thither Jimena retired, and on her death was laid with her husband. The
+faithful horse, famous in the "Romancero" as Jimena herself, was buried
+under a tree of the convent near his master. For the Cid had left word,
+"When you bury Bavieca, dig deep. For shameful thing were it that he
+should be eaten by curs who hath trod down so much currish flesh of
+Moors." To-day Bavieca's master does not lie in the quiet dignity of San
+Pedro. After various vicissitudes his remains are kept in a chest in
+the city hall of Burgos, not the most appropriate of sepulchers for a
+national hero.
+
+On the last day of our stay in the old Gothic city, we climbed the hill
+from which it doubtless got its name, Burg, a fortified eminence. The
+castle where the Cid was married is a complete ruin, for when the French
+evacuated the fort in 1813 they blew it up. On every side stretched the
+level melancholy plain, and silhouetted against it was the elaborate
+stone lace-work of the Cathedral. For long I looked out on the
+remarkable landscape, so far from beautiful yet so thought arousing.
+Little by little I was learning how a race can be ascetic to its inmost
+core yet express itself in grandiose architecture; exalted in soul yet
+the most realistic people in Europe; serious and dignified, yet
+childlike in their zest of life. Here was man in his unsubtle vigor, not
+so liberal that he had no creed left, not so polished that he had lost
+the power of first wonder and emotion. Life was lived here, not analyzed
+and missed.
+
+
+
+
+VALLADOLID
+
+    "They have no song the sedges dry
+                     And still they sing,
+     It is within my heart they sing as I pass by,
+     Within my heart they touch a spring,
+                     They wake a sigh,
+     There is but sound of sedges dry
+                     In me they sing."
+
+    GEORGE MEREDITH.
+
+
+From Burgos to Valladolid the monotonous Castile plain continued,
+unbroken by any hill and hardly a tree. Yet evening on the level steppes
+has a charm of its own. Like sunset at sea, nature has a free sweep of
+canvas on which to paint her pageant; details eliminated, the essential
+remains. One carries away many such memories from the silent plateau,
+till little by little the affection of the grave Castilian for his home
+is understood.
+
+On leaving Burgos there had occurred an amusing station scene. The man
+at the ticket office told us we could not start till the following day,
+as the train, on the point of arriving, was already full. So in
+discouragement we turned back to the distant hotel. Half way there a
+messenger from the station overtook us to say they had telegraphed
+ahead that there would be a few seats in the second class. We returned
+in time to board the packed train, and since it was the express to
+Madrid the second class carriages were excellent. As was the custom all
+over Spain, the hotel bus at Valladolid was waiting, and drove us
+immediately to the inn, where we had the usual bare but clean rooms, and
+the usual well-cooked generous dinner: if the trains were to pick us up
+as they chose, at any rate we were not going to starve or be eaten
+alive.
+
+It is well to have the first view of Valladolid by night as we did,
+under an early moon, for in the daytime it is modern, flat, and
+unpicturesque, a sharp contrast to Burgos. The moonlight soon tempted us
+out to explore the town. In the Plaza Mayor all was animation, an
+unbroken promenade of people under the arcades before the gay shops,
+officers in bright uniforms, and ladies in Parisian hats; it might have
+been any provincial city in Europe. Apart from this active lung of the
+town, the quiet streets were so deserted that our footsteps roused a
+startling echo. We passed under the huge fragment of the Cathedral, a
+nave only; the transepts stand roofless, and a new ruin is as depressing
+a thing as there is in life. The architect of the Escorial who designed
+this, Herrera, gave his name to the pseudo-classic style, "art made
+tongue-tied by authority," that followed the Plateresque abuse of
+ornament, just as his in turn was succeeded by the fantastic prancing
+art of Churriguera, again a reaction. An example of this last, the
+University, stood in the square near the Cathedral, and even the kindly
+moonlight could not soften the overladen meaningless mass; the cold
+severe lines of Herrera were dignified and regrettable in comparison.
+For me a Churrigueresque building is the ne plus ultra of bad taste in
+architecture, and Spain has a wealth of them. That man can raise a
+Santiago and a León, and some four hundred years later a San Isidro of
+Madrid, that the same race can carve a Pórtico de la Gloria and the
+Transparente of Toledo, show interesting possibilities of retrogression!
+Alas! we thought, after the strong old Gothic of Burgos, is Valladolid
+going to be just barren like its Cathedral and chaotic like its
+University? We went on in the moonlight and came to a white gleaming
+plaza where a church of the thirteenth century stood isolated, Santa
+María la Antigua, with a beautiful Lombard tower, and also that feature
+peculiar to Romanesque art in Spain, an outside cloister for the laity.
+This was decidedly better.
+
+The next morning when we came to explore the town, though we found no
+Gothic, we had our first introduction to a phase of architecture which
+is confined to the Peninsula. It coincided with Isabella's reign, and
+was a characteristic outburst of its new wealth and conquests,
+appropriately efflorescent and grandiose, though if carried one step
+beyond it would be decadent. This short period is called Plateresque,
+from _platero_, silversmith, for its elaborate surface decoration of
+scrolls, medallions, and heraldic ornament is sublimated smith's work.
+It occurred during the transition from Gothic to Renaissance, so it
+combined itself with either one or the other of these styles. It may be
+dull to give these pedagogical details and yet, as I hinted, if one is
+to understand Spain, one must have some smattering of architecture.
+Valladolid is worth stopping to see on one's entrance to Spain, if it
+were only for the clear-cut summary it gives of the different schools,
+always excepting Gothic. As it and Salamanca were the two places where
+the silversmith's art flourished, so they are the two centers for the
+best Plateresque buildings. They happen to be, unfortunately, the two
+cities that suffered most from the French invasion. Their churches and
+colleges were pillaged and battered, and though in modern times they
+have been restored, the first touch of perfection, "the first fine
+careless rapture" can never be recaught.
+
+[Illustration: THE FAÇADE OF SAN GREGORIO, VALLADOLID]
+
+Valladolid has three notable examples of Plateresque, San Pablo, San
+Gregorio, and the Colegio de Santa Cruz. If you have a weakness for
+the art of the builder this introduction to the rich and admirable
+expression of Spain at the zenith of her material power is an occasion.
+There is an excitement in coming on something original which has not
+been hackneyed by photograph. Thus, when I first entered the square
+where San Pablo's façade rises, I stood still in astonishment; I had
+never seen anything like this, and at first I could not tell if I liked
+it or not. Tier on tier soared the carved shields and crests, bizarre
+but nevertheless stately. Close by was the even stranger façade of San
+Gregorio, one vast crest with elaborate arabesques and statues. Being
+founded by the great primate of Toledo, Cardinal Ximenez, it was
+appropriate to meet here in the courtyard with some Mudéjar work,
+Christian and Moorish elements combined. It was in this convent that the
+Dominican, Bartolomé Las Casas, "Apostle of the Indians," spent the last
+twenty years of his energetic, troubled life, writing his history of the
+Colonies. He died at the advanced age of ninety-two, "A man who would
+have been remarkable in any age of the world," says Ticknor, "and who
+does not seem yet to have gathered in the full harvest of his honours."
+The third of the Plateresque buildings, well within Renaissance lines
+this last, the College of the Holy Cross founded by Cardinal Mendoza,
+now contains a grammar school, a library of some thousand volumes open
+to the public, and the Museum of the city.
+
+On no account should the _Museo_ be missed, for it holds a wonderful
+collection of wood carvings, an art which is to Spain what Italy's
+frescoes are to her: these statues were gathered chiefly from convents
+sacked by the French. Valladolid was personally associated with this
+national development, for most of the master-carvers lived at one time
+or another in the city. Spain's best sculptor, Berruguete, worked for
+years for the monks of San Benito, the _retablo_ of whose church is now
+in detached statues in the museum. He had studied under Michael Angelo,
+and though he had a distinct personality of his own, he plainly showed
+Italian influence. His pupil, Esteban Jordán, lived here, also the
+exaggerated Juan de Juní, and a more famous master, Alonzo Cano, painter
+and architect too. Cano, who died a canon in Granada Cathedral, is said
+to have fled the town--his house is still pointed out--when accused of
+the murder of his wife, though later investigations have thrown doubt on
+the whole story. This irascible master, one of the warmest hearted of
+men underneath, taught drawing to the Don Baltasar Carlos whom Velasquez
+painted, and I fear the infante found him very cross at times. Velasquez
+and Cano were friends and must have talked over that charming little
+prince. Cano was indeed a character. When a corporation demurred at the
+price of a statue he had made for them he shattered the image with a
+blow; and on his death bed he could not bring himself to kiss an
+inartistic crucifix, saying, "Give me a plain cross that I may venerate
+_Jesucristo_ as he is pictured in my own mind."
+
+The room of coarsely-carved statues, formerly used in the Holy Week
+processions, should be passed with a glance, but the collection of
+smaller works deserves long study. The most beautiful group I thought
+was the Baptism in the Jordan by a later carver, Gregorio Hernández, of
+Galicia, who died in Valladolid in 1636. His art is not classic, indeed
+most Spanish sculptors cared little for the ideal perfection of the
+human body, their strength lay in the individual portrait, not in
+rendering a type. Hernández softened the crudity or the realist school
+to which he belonged by depicting nobility of face and bearing. The
+scene of the Jordan is a panel with the two chief figures life-sized in
+full relief. The Baptist, his well-modeled limbs strong from life in the
+desert, leans forward to pour the river water on the head of his Lord,
+with an expression of such vivid rapture and awe that it holds you
+spellbound. There is little in art that can surpass this in emotional
+sincerity. The story of the Gospel is told to its fullest possibility.
+What the sculptor felt in every fiber he has succeeded in making others
+feel, and though an expression so poignant may not be highest art, it
+justifies itself by its direct appeal to the human heart. It is told of
+Hernández that he never undertook a work till he had first prayed. He
+has here also a statue of St. Teresa, spoiled by the heavy paint, and a
+bust of St. Anne, successfully colored. Even if you are prepared to find
+the wood carvings painted it frets you; it almost spoils the statues,
+but it was the custom and must be accepted. "_Es la costumbre_" is a
+closing argument in a country whose link with the past has never been
+rudely broken.
+
+If her remarkable wood carvings come as a surprise, so will some of the
+practical developments of this small progressive city. The hospital that
+looks out on the leafy park of the Magdalena is run in approved modern
+fashion. A brisk young doctor who spoke English, having learned from a
+friend in the English College here, showed us over the wards with
+legitimate pride. They radiated from a big central rotunda; on both
+sides of each ward were large windows and at the end of each a pretty
+altar. There were five hundred public beds, and private rooms were to be
+had for the sum of two dollars a week! The greeting between doctor and
+patients was a pleasant thing to see,--he chatted and joked with the
+children, and, as we left, stopped at the door to lift with real
+kindness an ill man who had just arrived in a gayly-painted country
+cart. The newcomer was a gentle-faced Castilian, whose sons had brought
+him in from the plains; as the stalwart boys carried the trembling old
+man I thought of another touching hospital scene. Perhaps Rab and his
+friends came to my mind because bounding round us on our visit to the
+hospital was a beautiful Scotch collie. "Laddie" was an unfamiliar sight
+on a Spanish street; he belonged to the English College and is a great
+pet of the seminarians.
+
+In Valladolid are two foreign institutions: the Scotch college, founded
+by a Colonel Semple in 1627; and the English, which continues the
+foundation of St. Albans, and has relics of its name-saint of the third
+century. It was endowed in Spain by Sir Francis Englefield, who retired
+here after the execution of Mary Queen of Scots. Some forty English
+students are educated for the priesthood and return on their ordination
+for work in their native land. Naturally the great hour of this college
+was during the religious persecutions under Elizabeth, when it was death
+to be a priest in England. Twenty-seven from this one small group were
+executed. Their portraits hang along the cloisters: Cadwallader, Stark,
+Bell, Walpole, Weston, Sutheron,--each of the heroic band started from
+these quiet halls to meet a martyr's death.
+
+Controversy is out of date, I hope, to-day. But there is such a thing as
+fair-mindedness, and a visit to Spain at every step shows she has not
+had her share of it from English-speaking peoples. With every chapter of
+our guide book railing at the Inquisition, I could not help feeling that
+these martyred Englishmen should not be so completely forgotten. Not
+that the _tu quoque_ argument excuses persecution on either side. But an
+age should be judged by its own ethics or true views of history are
+impossible. The New Englanders who, two hundred years later than
+Isabella's institution, hanged a few Quakers on Boston Common were none
+the less moral men; and General Robert E. Lee fighting for slavery in
+the nineteenth century is a man we have a right to admire. The mere fact
+of the Inquisition being founded by that magnanimous woman called by
+Bacon "an honor to her sex and the cornerstone of the greatness of
+Spain" should tell us its motives were sincere. Her age had not yet
+learned the lesson, which we have acquired slowly, bit by bit through
+experience, that political or religious existence is possible with
+divided factions, not only possible but that a nation is more vigorous
+because of them. As Bishop Creighton wisely says: "The modern conception
+of free discussion and free thought is not so much the result of a
+firmer gasp of moral principles as it is the result of the discovery
+that uniformity is not necessary for the maintenance of political
+unity." Isabella's age agreed that persecution was necessary to preserve
+Christianity. And since only Spain was in immediate contact with Islam,
+and centuries of crusade against the invading infidel had the natural
+result of making the Spaniard sternly orthodox, it was there that the
+Inquisition flourished.
+
+It dragged on for over three centuries, and from 1481 to 1812, 35,000
+people were burned,[8] these numbers being Richard Ford's, to whom the
+Inquisition was as a red rag to a bull. The German scholar Schack
+acknowledges that all the Moors and heretics burned in Spain by the
+Holy Office do not equal the women witches burned alive in Germany
+during the seventeenth century alone. In France, in the one night of St.
+Bartholomew, almost as many victims fell as during the whole three
+hundred years of the Inquisition. Of England the publishing of recent
+investigations makes it needless to speak; blood flowed in torrents
+there. Besides those well known ones who met death under Mary Tudor, the
+Catholic martyrdoms give such details as the "Scavenger's Daughter,"
+that cramping circle of iron; "Little Ease," where a prisoner, could not
+sit or stand or lie down; needles thrust under the nails; the
+rack-master of the Tower boasting he had made Alexander Briant longer by
+a foot than God had made him; the general custom of cutting down the
+victim from the gallows while still alive to tear out his heart and
+quarter him,--accounts that put the _Autos da Fé_ in the shade. In the
+annals of Spain is not a scene that equals the blood curdling horror of
+the martyrdom in Dorchester, England, of Hugh Green in the year 1642.[9]
+Yet an Englishman, a Frenchman, a German, if fanaticism or cruelty are
+mentioned, makes his inevitable trite reference to the Spanish
+Inquisition. It has been made the scape-goat of all religious
+persecution. Abuse has so fixed the idea that it was a barbarous machine
+controlled by contorted natures to whom bloodshed was a revelry that any
+effort to place it in a truer light is sure to be called retrogression.
+I am far from attempting a defense of this painful aberration of the
+Christian mind, but what I hold is, if a student went to the records of
+Alcalá and Simancas, open free to all, not to search out the hundred
+mistaken cases from the ten thousand proven ones, the method up to this,
+but, following the first law of intellectual work, investigation without
+preconceived bias, if he tried to understand this phase of man's slow
+development _per errorem ad veritatem_, then the thin-lipped,
+gleaming-eyed, bloodthirsty Inquisitor of the popular fancy would be
+taken from the pillory where he has been pelted these centuries past,
+and his mistaken sincerity stand justified by the conditions of his
+time.
+
+The records prove that the Holy Office was used seldom against scholars
+but against relapsed Mohammedans and Jews, false _beati_, sorcerers, and
+witches. "_Ningún hombre de mérito científico fué quemado por la
+Inquisición_," is the clear statement of one of the greatest of living
+scholars, Menéndez y Pelayo, and he who would cross swords with that
+erudite champion must be sure indeed of his assertions. Not one Spanish
+thinker or statesman, such as Bishop Fisher, Sir Thomas More, the
+Carthusian priors, Houghton, Webster, and Laurence, the poet Robert
+Southwell, the scholarly Edmund Campion, and a host of others,[10]
+graduates of Oxford and Cambridge, executed for their faith during the
+hundred and fifty years of religious persecution in England, not one man
+of like standing was put to death in Spain. Had he been, some righteous
+hater of the "ferocious Inquisitors," would ere this have produced his
+name and works. Archbishop Talavera was accused but was finally
+justified; if the poet Luis de León was imprisoned, he was set free on
+examination. It was not his own countrymen but Calvin in Geneva, who had
+the Spanish scholar, the Unitarian, Miguel Servet burned alive, and it
+was the mild Melanchthon who wrote to the reformer saying: "The Church
+owes thee gratitude. I maintain that the tribunal has acted in
+accordance with justice in having put to death a blasphemer." In Germany
+at that period the civil courts inflicted capital punishment on sorcery,
+blasphemy, and church robbery; had the same law held in Spain the
+number of the Inquisition executions would be appreciably lowered. Lord
+Bacon, who was a just and humane man, mentions as a matter of course
+that in his time the English civil courts used torture: the Peninsula
+was not ahead of its time in this respect.
+
+As for that debated subject the effect on the Spanish character of the
+_Santo Oficio_, prejudices have built up so twisted a labyrinth that the
+best way out for one who would keep his level-headed balance is to hold
+fast to the thread of internal evidence. Unconscious of writing history
+for the future, hence his unassailable veracity, Cervantes tells in
+detail of the life in court and tavern, in the town and on the desolate
+highways after the Inquisition had flourished for more than a century.
+Does he portray a degraded race, finger on lips whispering, "Hush, or
+you will be overheard"? If the Spaniard was ground down in fear and
+deceit why is it that to-day, of all the peoples of the continent, he is
+the most independent in character? It has been said that a burgher of
+Amsterdam does not differ more from a Neapolitan, than a Basque from an
+Andalusian, yet in this trait of sturdy independence all Spaniards are
+alike; the historian Ticknor wrote during his stay in Spain, "The lower
+class is, I think, the finest _material_ I have met in Europe to make a
+great and generous people." If under the Inquisition "every
+intellectual impulse was repressed,"[11] how dared theologians and
+philosophers, such as Vives, Isla, and Feijóo boldly attack with their
+pens superstitions and degenerated religious customs? Is the poetry of
+Juan de la Cruz, Luis de León and the prose of Teresa, the work of souls
+who feared to adore their God freely? And is it not undeniable that the
+two golden centuries of Spanish art and literature flourished under this
+bugbear horror, this "_coco de niños y espantajo de bobos_," as Menéndez
+y Pelayo calls it?
+
+Used chiefly against Judaism and Islamism, occasionally the Inquisition
+became the tool of a tyrannic king for private vengeance. Indeed, there
+are some historians such as von Ranke, Lenormant, de Maistre, who hold
+it to have been more a royal than an ecclesiastic instrument, fostered
+by the Hapsburgs to augment their autocratic rule.[12] Certainly all
+confiscated property went to the Crown.
+
+Man's slow development _per errorem ad veritatem_, slow indeed one may
+say, in the face of certain realities of our own time. Happily the
+generations of cant and holier-than-thou are passing, and we are looking
+history more honestly in the face. It is dawning on us that religious
+persecution in 1492 is no more frightful than slavery in 1860 or an
+Opium War in 1843.
+
+Modern Spain realizes the wrong of persecution, the farce of a religion
+of love using the sword, as thoroughly as does every other civilized
+country. Outside the church of St. Philip Neri in Cadiz is a tablet
+proudly commemorating the abolition of the Inquisition within its walls
+in 1812.
+
+To return to less nettlesome themes. The little English College, so
+interesting a memorial of past history, a forgotten haven of refuge in
+Old Spain, must be a peaceful memory to look back on by priests whose
+later lives are spent in Birmingham or London slums. The pleasant
+sitting-room of each inmate, the recreation hall with its theater, the
+library, with the latest English books jostling old Spanish tomes,--all
+spoke of contented full days. We turned the parchment leaves where the
+college records for its three hundred years in Spain have been kept,
+where each student is mentioned, from the troubled first days down to
+the group of ten who had arrived from England a week before our visit,
+among them a young Reginald Vaughan, nephew of the Cardinal.
+
+With up-to-date hospital and busy manufactures, Valladolid does not seem
+like an ancient capital of the Spanish court. We would read in our guide
+book that the miserable Juan II had his favorite of a lifetime, Álvaro
+de Luna, beheaded in the big square; that here Juan's noble daughter
+married Ferdinand of Aragon; and that, seated on a throne in the Plaza
+Mayor, Charles V pardoned the remaining Comuneros, the rebels who had
+dared assert the federal principle against his centralization of
+government, Spain's last outcry before she sank under the blighting
+tyranny of her Hapsburg and Bourbon rulers. Such past happenings were
+interesting, but they would have the same meaning if read of in London
+or Boston. However, there were two memories of Valladolid that were
+vivid enough to haunt one as one walked about its hum-drum streets: they
+are associated with the saddest hours of two supreme men.
+
+No. 7 Calle de Cristóbal Colón is the insignificant house where
+Isabella's High Admiral died in 1506, in obscurity and neglect, his
+patroness dead, and Ferdinand ungrateful. A hundred years later, in
+another small house, now owned by the government, Cervantes lived in
+poverty. Unknown and undivined he walked these streets, looking at the
+passers-by with his wise, tolerant eyes. Fresh, perhaps, from writing
+the monologue on the Golden Age, delivered by the Don over a few brown
+acorns of inspiration, Cervantes in threadbare cape went to his humble
+scrivener's work, the golden time of justice and kindness existing only
+in his own gallant heart. It was in Valladolid that the ladies of his
+household, widowed sisters, niece, his daughter and wife, sewed to gain
+their daily bread, and as if penury were not enough, here they were
+thrown into prison because a young noble, wounded in a street brawl, was
+carried into their house to die.
+
+Cervantes' life reads like one of the romantic tales he loves to digress
+with in his great novel, when grandee, barber and priest, court lady,
+Eastern damsel, and _labrador's_ daughter, gather round the inn
+table--the servants a natural part of the group--in the easy meeting of
+the classes which is still a reality in Spain. Born at Alcalá,
+Cervantes' first bent was toward literature, but having gone to Rome in
+the suite of a cardinal, in Italy he joined the army against the
+infidel. He fought at Lepanto, where his bravery drew on him the notice
+of Don John of Austria, that alluring young leader of whom one of his
+state council wrote, "Nature had endowed him with a cast of countenance
+so gay and pleasing that there was hardly anyone whose good-will and
+love he did not immediately win." It makes a pleasant picture, the visit
+of this high-spirited young hero to his wounded soldier in the hospital
+of Messina. Later, Cervantes fought at Naples, at Tunis, in Lombardy,
+making part of his century's stirring history, and all the while storing
+his mind with the culture of Italy. It was when returning to Spain that
+some Algerian pirates took him prisoner. His five years' captivity in
+Africa stand an unsurpassed exhibition of grandeur of character, proving
+that the highest gifts of mind and heart go together in perfect accord.
+Loaded with chains, twice brought to be hanged with a rope around his
+neck, his knightly spirit rose above all misery. There were twenty-five
+thousand wretched Christians then in bondage in Algiers. Cervantes
+waited on the sick, shared his food with the more destitute, encouraged
+the despairing,--a Christian in the fullest sense of the word is the
+testimony of a Fray Juan Gil, who, belonging to a brotherhood for the
+redemption of prisoners, worked for his release. In this harsh school
+"_donde aprendió a tener paciencia en las adversidades_"--the
+adversities that were to follow him all his life--was chastened to
+self-effacement and a sublime patience an ardent spirit that by nature
+chafed against wrong.
+
+What wonder that the late flowering of this man's soul, the book written
+when past middle age, should be of chivalry all compact, a nobility of
+sentiment exposed half seriously, half in jest! What wonder that in the
+midst of laughter the voice breaks with tenderness for the lovable
+_caballero andante_! His Quixote is Cervantes' own unquenchable spirit.
+A bitter experience of life never deadened his faith in man nor dulled
+his heroic gayety. With exquisite humor he realized the alien aspect of
+such trust and love and faith in the disillusioning realities of life,
+so he veiled it all under the kindly cloak of a cracked-brained knight.
+The wandering adventures of a fool make the wisest, most human-hearted
+book ever written.
+
+Toward the end of his slavery, when Cervantes passed into the hands of
+the viceroy of Algiers, Hassan Pasha, his force of character gained
+influence over the tyrant. But he asked too high a ransom for the
+captive's family to pay. The priest who had watched the young soldier on
+his deeds of mercy, worked indefatigably for his release. A letter was
+sent to Philip II to beg aid for a soldier of Lepanto. At length three
+hundred ducats were raised. Hassan Pasha asked a thousand. Already was
+Cervantes chained to the oar of a galley, bound for Constantinople, when
+at the last hour Father Gil, helped by some Christian merchants,
+succeeded in raising five hundred ducats, which ransom the Viceroy
+accepted.
+
+At thirty-four years of age, Cervantes again stepped on Spanish soil.
+But the world was then much as it is now; years had passed since
+Lepanto,--he was forgotten. His patron Don John of Austria had died in
+Flanders two years before his release. He joined the army once more and
+fought in the expedition against the Azores; then seeing there was no
+chance of advancement, he returned to his first career, that of letters.
+His plays and poems had small success: a pathetic phrase in the scene
+where the _cura_ burns Quixote's books and comes on an epic by one,
+Cervantes, "better versed in poverty and misfortunes than in verses,"
+has deeper meaning when his checkered career is known.
+
+Twenty-five years of obscurity and abject poverty succeeded each other,
+his lot so lowly it is hard to trace his steps. Whole years remain a
+blank. The brave heart never flagged, no bitterness tinged his kindly
+tolerance. This Castilian hidalgo of ripe culture earned his bread in
+the humblest ways. 1588 found him in Seville as commissary victualer for
+the Great Armada. Tradition says he visited La Mancha, the desert he was
+to immortalize, to collect tithes for a priory of St. John, and that the
+villagers in anger cast him into prison, where he conceived the idea of
+his novel. This child of his wit he hints to us was born in a jail. The
+sad years in Valladolid followed, and there in 1605, at fifty-eight
+years of age, he published the first part of "Don Quixote."
+
+Its success was immediate. The grace of the style, the inimitable humor,
+and the underflowing current of mellow wisdom, made it from the start,
+what Sainte-Beuve called it, "the book of humanity." However, its
+publication did not much better Cervantes' fortunes. He retired to
+Madrid, where he lived on a small pension from the Archbishop of Toledo.
+A French noble visiting Spain asked for the famous author, and was told,
+"He who had made all the world rich was poor and infirm though a soldier
+and a gentleman."
+
+In 1613 appeared his "Novelas Exemplares," a remarkable collection of
+tales which gave Scott the idea of the Waverley novels. The second part
+of "Don Quixote," equal to the first in vigor and charm, appeared when
+Cervantes was sixty; "his foot already in the stirrup," he gives us in a
+preface, the moving description of himself. In the latter part of his
+life, according to a custom of the time, he became a tertiary of the
+Franciscan Order, and on his death in 1616 they buried him humbly in the
+convent of nuns in Madrid, where his daughter was a religious. Ill
+fortune still pursued him, for to-day there is no trace of his last
+resting-place.
+
+It is with thoughts of this heroic life--this man lovable as his own
+Don, with a gentle stammer in his speech, and the kindly wise look in
+his eyes, his left hand maimed from Lepanto, his shoulders bowed and his
+chestnut hair turned to silver by the ceaseless calamities of life--it
+is with such memories one looks down from the high-road on the small
+house where he wrote his masterpiece. Columbus on his deathbed, and
+Cervantes in poverty writing "Quixote"--two such associations make a
+visit to Valladolid memorable.
+
+
+
+
+OVIEDO IN THE ASTURIAS
+
+     "It is perfectly ridiculous to pretend that, because they dress the
+     Madonna and saints in rich robes, the Spaniards are ignorant that a
+     statue is but a symbol. They sing their faith, we whisper ours, but
+     the words have the same meaning, and the same thought is in the
+     mind ... Draw a bias line enclosing the Basque provinces,--Navarre,
+     Castile, Aragon, Catalonia, and you have there old religious Spain
+     as she appears in history, with a vivid and practical faith, an
+     irreproachable clergy, a piety of the heart reflected in the
+     manners."--RENÉ BAZIN.
+
+
+We left Valladolid toward evening, in order to stop over a night in
+Palencia, before going north to Asturias. The cathedral of Palencia is
+well worth the pause, even though the visit may be limited to a night in
+the Continental Inn and a hasty daybreak visit to the church; the small
+cities of central Spain are of so individual a character that each
+stamps itself separately and indelibly on the memory.
+
+The dawn was just breaking on a raw, rainy morning when we walked
+through the silent streets of the town. In spite of the early hour, near
+each of the water fountains stood a long row of antique-shaped jars,
+some of red clay, some like old silver. For each housewife places her
+jar in line, and when the drinking water is turned on, each fills her
+crock in turn, according as it was put in the row. At the biblical wells
+of Palestine the Syrian women to-day use ugly, square Rockefeller oil
+cans, but happily conservative Spain is not partial to innovations. It
+was on this early morning walk that I first noticed the white palm
+leaves, some six feet in length, fastened to the balconies or above a
+window. One finds them all over the country. They are from the palm
+forests of Elche in the south, and each Easter new ones are blessed and
+hung out on the houses, some say to guard against lightning. Later, in
+Madrid, we saw one decorating the King's palace.
+
+The Cathedral of Palencia is of the same tawny yellow as the plains
+about it. The east end is early Gothic, the western part of a later,
+weaker period. Like Salisbury it has the uncommon feature of two sets of
+transepts; the clearstory is carried round the church, unbroken by rose
+windows at the west or transept ends. The interior in the dim light of a
+rainy October morning was picturesque past description. There are times
+when the chances of travel bring one to a spot at just its perfect hour.
+Thus we saw this church in a moment of such exquisite half light and
+quietude that its memory is a possession for life. Behind the High Altar
+rose an isolated chapel, set detached in the midst of the ambulatory,
+and through its iron _rejas_ were seen the blurred glimmer of candles,
+the veiled kneeling figures of the people, an aged white-haired priest
+at the Altar; high upon the wall the coffin of the ancient Queen Urraca.
+The effect was indescribable,--austere, ascetic, yet with a passionate
+glamour essentially Spanish. A masterpiece could an artist make of this
+detached chapel, lighted for divine service each day at dawn with such
+unconscious naturalness.
+
+Architects may say that Spanish cathedrals are exaggerated and
+overloaded, that they lack the restraint and purity of line of Chartres,
+Amiens, and the Isle de France churches which are the world's best
+Gothic. All this may well be true, yet Spain can smile securely at
+criticism. She has a soul in her places of worship, a soaring exaltation
+of the imagination that imparts the assurance of a living faith. Firmly
+and ardently she believes in Jesus Christ, her Redeemer, and with all
+her lofty intensity she prostrates herself in worship.
+
+We wandered round the dusky aisles, deciphering tombs, some of whose
+effigies held their arms raised in prayer,--only a Spaniard could endure
+to look even at such a tiring attitude! But the time for loitering was
+limited. The transept clock, a knight, a Moor, and a lion, sounded the
+warning we must heed if we were to catch the early train for the North.
+The thoughtful innkeeper had saved us some precious minutes by sending
+the hotel omnibus to wait outside the Cathedral, and we rattled--in its
+literal sense--to the distant station. The city was at last fully awake,
+and each water jar had now an owner; one by one they followed each other
+at the pump, with pleasant greetings and chatter.
+
+Then again stretched the tawny plains. The fields of León were tractless
+wastes of mud from the rain of the past weeks. Seen from the car window,
+each village on the truncated mountain was the exact copy of its
+neighbor, the same monotonous note of color in adobe wall and denuded
+steppe. It was in vain to look for some distinction to mark one group of
+mud houses, called Paredes de Nava, birthplace of Spain's best sculptor
+Berruguete, from a similar mud-emblocked place called Cisneros, feudal
+home of Cardinal Ximenez's family; the imagination had to supply the
+difference.
+
+Every one must come prepared for Spanish trains to go at a leisurely
+pace--about fifteen miles an hour is the average of the express route.
+From Palencia to Oviedo was a twelve-hour trip, and the distance covered
+was a hundred and sixty miles. Of course one crossed the Cantabrian
+mountains, the continuation of the Pyrenees along the northern coast,
+and they are no slight barrier since they sometimes rise to a height of
+8,000 feet.
+
+We passed the city of León toward noon, when there came a respite from
+the dull treeless plain, for, beyond the town stretched a thinly-wooded
+district which gave the first reminder since leaving the Basque valleys
+that the season still was autumn. After central Spain, the bleak hills
+that now began seemed positively beautiful,--so many pleasures are
+relative.
+
+Slowly the train climbed the mountain wall that from earliest times has
+protected the Asturian principality from the invader. Near the summit,
+emerging from a tunnel several miles long, we looked out over a glorious
+panorama, the beauty not being relative this time, but as truly
+magnificent as some of Switzerland's show views. The storm had covered
+the peaks with freshest snow, the sky was a frosty dark blue, mountain
+rose behind mountain for miles, the white road was flung a sinuous
+ribbon round the folds of the hills; below lay fertile valleys of
+greenest grass with greenest trees and happy nestling farms. The secure
+mountain wall gave the Asturian courage to build a home wherever his
+whim chose. He was not forced like the Castilian by centuries of Moorish
+inroads to herd in a compact town.
+
+As the puffing train waited for breathing space on the crest of the
+pass, a group of peasants boarded it. They wore the white wooden clogs
+of the province that differ from ordinary clogs by having stilts, a
+couple of inches high, to lift them above the mud; and they brought with
+them, on a sledge, as wheels are of no use up these steep hills, an
+antique curiosity of a trunk. We began to hope that old costumes and
+customs still held in this isolated corner of the world, though the
+engineering of the road in the descent was disturbingly up-to-date,--a
+series of loops, cuts, and sharp turns; sometimes three parallel lines
+of rail over which we were to pass lay one below the other, sometimes
+directly across the valley we saw our trail; a distance of twenty-six
+miles is covered where a crow would fly seven.
+
+The principality of Asturias has given its name to the heir apparent of
+the Spanish crown since the 14th century, when a daughter of the Duke of
+Lancaster married the Spanish king's eldest son, and her father claimed
+for her a title equal to that of Prince of Wales to the English throne.
+The connection by marriage between Spain and England has been a frequent
+one. It began in the 12th century, when Henry II's daughter married
+Alfonso VIII of Castile; later the Plantagenet Edward I had for wife a
+Spanish infanta. From the two daughters of Pedro the Cruel, who married
+into the English royal family, on one side descended Henry VIII, from
+the other, by a marriage back again in Spain, sprang Isabella the
+Catholic. After the ill-fated union of Isabella's daughter with Henry
+VIII and that of Mary Tudor and Philip II, connection by marriage
+between Spain and England ceased for centuries. To-day, as all the world
+knows, the young queen of Spain, Doña Victoria, with the same blonde
+hair as Isabella, is an Englishwoman, and a rosy little prince bears the
+title of these distant mountains.
+
+It is a fitting title for the heir to the throne, since this province is
+the cradle of Spanish nationality, and never was vassal to Roman or
+Moor. The people are a mixture of the aboriginal Iberians and the
+Visigoths who were here finally merged in one people and here
+reconstructed the Spanish monarchy. So proud is an Asturian of his
+origin that he thinks, like the Basques, that his mere birth confers
+nobility; every native of the province is an hidalgo. Did not the
+Asturian lady, the duenna of the Duchess, remark to Don Quixote that her
+husband was _hidalgo como el Rey porque era montañés_?
+
+When in 711 the last of the Gothic kings, Roderick, was defeated by the
+Moors who had lately crossed from Africa, a remnant of the Christian
+army took refuge in these northern mountains. At Cavadonga, an historic
+defeat was inflicted on the Moslem army in 718, by Pelayo, Spain's
+first king, chosen leader because he was the bravest of the people. The
+Moorish chronicle, too close to the struggle to see its vital issues,
+speaks of "one Belay, a contemptible barbarian who roused the people of
+Asturish."
+
+Without Cavadonga the face of Europe had been changed. Had not the
+Mussulmans from Africa met this repulse, they had pushed on beyond the
+Pyrenees before the Franks were strong enough to withstand them. Often
+rose this thought when reading the sentimental regrets for the Moors in
+Spain found in guide books and histories. Had Spain not warred for eight
+hundred years against the invader, had she not endured with such Spartan
+courage the insecurity of life and property caused by ceaseless forays
+from the south, European civilization had been put back for centuries.
+Like most virile nations, she has the defect of her qualities, and when
+the final victory was hers she went too far. But this should not blind
+us to the nobility of the _Reconquista_.
+
+Within reach of Cavadonga, sacred to every Spaniard as the cradle of his
+race and religion, I could not help asking the cause of the ceaseless
+regret for the Moor. A lover of the picturesque, like Washington Irving,
+has a right to gloss over the days of the Alhambra, but it seems strange
+for serious history to hold up the Mohammedan in Spain as a model of
+cleanliness, industry, and tolerance in contrast to the Christian, in
+face of the centuries of piracy by sea, the barbarity of African prisons
+where thousands of Spaniards languished in chains, and also--a thought
+that often came to me when walking through the filthy, narrow streets in
+Moslem countries--if the Moor in Spain is to be so regretted, why are
+not the northern cities of Africa models for modern Christians to
+emulate? The Moor came from them, and many of his race left Spain to
+return to them. I would not belittle the Arab civilization in the
+Peninsula, for under the Ommiade dynasty, Cordova reached a
+distinguished height of culture, but what I object to is the partisan
+spirit that places Moors on one side to be praised and extenuated, and
+Spanish Christians on the other to be condemned. Facts are so distorted
+that many think the re-conquest of Andalusia meant the substitution of
+backward ignorance for an enlightened rule, whereas the Moors
+themselves, long before the coming of their northern conquerors, had
+destroyed their own higher civilization. The flower of their culture
+(always an exotic, for Islamism as hitherto interpreted is incapable of
+strengthening it) was withered before Alfonzo VI and the Cid had set
+foot further south than Toledo.
+
+Under the Ommiade caliphs, for about five generations, life probably
+resembled the golden picture drawn for us as typical of Moorish sway. A
+few able rulers disguised the fact that the government was never
+anything else but a despotism. This _siglo de oro_ was well over by
+1030. Some barbarous warrior tribes, from Africa, the Almoravides, swept
+away the feeble remains of Ommiade rule, to be in their turn routed by
+other African invaders, the fanatic Almohades. These last persecuted
+Averroës as holding views too liberal for a true Mohammedan, and the
+scholar died in misery and exile, just as in the same century the
+remarkable Spanish-Jew, Maimonides, was accused of teaching atheism by
+his fellow Israelites. Rejected by his own people, the fame of Averroës
+came later through his study by European Schoolmen. His teachings, like
+most of what is of value in Arab learning, was of Greek origin, and had
+reached him by way of Persia, which never wholly conformed to the set
+tenets of Islam. Why do the anti-Spanish historians never mention that
+in the same era in which Averroës, the philosopher, was persecuted by
+his fellow-believers, a college of translators under the patronage of
+the Archbishop Raimundo of Toledo, from 1130 to 1150, put into Latin the
+most scientific works of the Moors?
+
+Mohammedan civilization in Spain, from decay within, was completely
+disintegrated by 1275. The caliphs of Granada led the lives of weak
+voluptuaries, artistic but decadent; no rose-colored romancing can veil
+their essential decline. Isabella's court, traveling with its
+university, with the learned Peter Martyr instructing the young nobles
+in Renaissance lore, so that a son of the Duke of Alva, and a cousin of
+the King are to be found among the lecturers of Salamanca, presents a
+noble contrast. When the _Reconquista_ was achieved, and after three
+thousand seven hundred battles, the Spaniard was again master in his own
+land, grievous mistakes were made, until finally, in 1609, in a panic of
+fear that the corsairs of Africa were uniting with their co-religionists
+along the Spanish coasts, the Moriscos were expelled. Spain inflicted
+this blow on herself at an ill moment, since already from the enormous
+emigration to the New World, her crying need was population. But this
+act of bad government whereby she threw away over half a million of her
+inhabitants (always remember, however, far more Moorish blood remained
+than was lost, for nine centuries of occupation had well infiltered it
+through the southern provinces) did not drive out the intellectual and
+moral backbone of the land as we are given to understand. The Moors of
+Isabella's day were not the liberal-minded, cultivated people they had
+been under the Ommiade caliphs four centuries earlier, and the
+persecuted Moriscos of Philip III's time were far lower in standing.
+Also it cannot be questioned that Valencia, the province that expelled
+them, whose rich soil to-day supports a crowded population, quickly
+filled up, and soon showed with its irrigation the same industry that
+seemed peculiar to the Moors. It was central Spain, eminently "old
+Christian," that when its people flocked as adventurers to America,
+could offer neither fertile soil nor inviting climate to lure new
+settlers. The quotations usually cited to prove that Valencia was
+irremediably devastated by the Expulsion are taken from men who wrote
+within a few years of the disaster; it would be an easy matter,
+following the same sophistry to quote aspects of our South a generation
+ago that could make the Civil War appear an irremediable blight.
+
+Seeking for the cause of the tendency to overrate the Moor at the
+expense of his hereditary enemy, it seems to me it is to be traced to
+that period of rancor, the Invincible Armada, when religious and
+political passions ran so high that it was forgotten that the hated
+Spaniard was before all else a Christian, and on his heroic struggle for
+the Cross had hung the civilization of Europe.
+
+The capital of the Asturian province is Oviedo. Alfonso II, the eighth
+king that followed Pelayo, made it his chief city, but in spite of its
+antiquity it is a disappointing town. I had pictured an unspoiled bit
+of the past, locked in as it is by mountains whose valleys reach to the
+city gates, with curiously-named saints still serving as titulars, with
+the oldest remains of Christian architecture in the Peninsula. But the
+reality is a smug, commonplace, successful little city of slight local
+color. The mansions are Renaissance, not mediæval; if you stumble on an
+ancient street it soon brings you to a straight new boulevard. Children
+in English clothes and ladies dressed like Parisians walk in the park
+facing a line of pretentious apartment houses. I asked in the shops for
+pictures of the _Cámera Santa_. They could only give me postcards of the
+model prison and the model insane asylum. Sleepy little Palencia, with
+its rows of classic water jars waiting--time no consideration--till the
+water was turned on in the fountains, it seemed hardly possible we had
+left it only that morning. The remote old world may be found in central
+Spain, but as this is the land of anomalies, the mountain provinces of
+the north are busy to-day with mines and commerce. It remains but a
+question of time for Bilbao, Santander, Gijón, Coruña, and Vigo, the
+northern harbors, to become commercial centers. They are awake at last
+and keen to enter the struggle.
+
+This industrial tendency is what we agree in calling progress, and Spain
+has been censured for her backwardness in entering the world's
+competition, so it is not justifiable to regret the unambitious past.
+But who can be consistent in the home of _el ingenioso hidalgo_! From
+the moment of entering Spain till we left I leaned now to one side, now
+to the other, glad and proud one day to see her new industries, a model
+hospital or asylum, and scoffing the next, at a hideous new boulevard
+that had relieved a congested district. This land of racy types and
+vigorous humanity may be doomed to have factory chimneys belching smoke,
+to have lawless mobs of socialists and pitiful slums in cities where now
+is frugal poverty, where a beggar lives contentedly next door to a
+prince, because he feels the prince recognizes him as his fellow
+countryman and fellow Christian: progress and wealth are bought with a
+price. Oviedo, just entering the competition, and fast sweeping away its
+picturesque past, made me glad to be in time to see something of the old
+ways of Spain.
+
+The lion of the city, the Cathedral, adds to this inconsistent feeling
+of disappointment. It is the only cathedral of the twenty and more we
+were to see that has removed the choir from the nave and placed pews
+down the center of the church. At Burgos the heavy blocking mass of the
+_coro_ in the nave had startled and bewildered me, but soon I grew so
+accustomed to this Spanish usage that a church without it seemed
+incomplete. Oviedo has modernized its side chapels, recklessly sweeping
+away carvings and sarcophagi. It thought the tombs of Pelayo's
+successors, the early kings, were cluttering rubbish, so a good plain
+stone, easy to decipher, has been put up in place of the ancient
+memorials!
+
+The Cathedral is perpendicular Gothic of the 14th century. The west
+façade has a spacious portico, whose effect, however, is lessened by the
+church being set so that you descend to it from the street. On one side
+of the portico rises the tower, bold and graceful, showing from its base
+to its open-lace stone turret an easy gradation of styles. This is the
+tower that runs like an echo through a powerful modern novel set in
+Oviedo, "La Regenta," by Leopoldo Alas. "_Poema romántica de piedra_,"
+he calls it, "_delicado himno de dulces líneas de belleza muda_." Out of
+the south transept open cloisters that made, the first day of our visit,
+a charming picture in the sunshine after the weeks of cold rain; the red
+pendants of the fuschia bushes caught the long-absent warmth with
+palpable enjoyment. The shafts of the pillars here were oval shaped, not
+a wholly successful change, as in profile view they appeared
+unsymmetrical. Out of this south transept also opens the gem of the
+church, the _Cámera Santa_, which has escaped the general renovation as
+being too closely bound to the historical and religious past of Spain to
+be tampered with. Alfonso _el Casto_ in 802 built this shrine, raised
+twenty feet from the church pavement to preserve it from damp. A small
+room with apostle-figures serving as caryatids leads to the sanctum
+sanctorum where the famous relics are kept. They were brought here in a
+Byzantine chest from Toledo when the Moors conquered that city, and
+probably there are few collections of old jewelers' work equal to them.
+Here is kept the cross Pelayo carried as a standard at the battle of
+Cavadonga more than eleven hundred years before. Few can help feeling in
+Spain the charm of continuous tradition. Never were her treasures
+scattered by revolution; that this was Pelayo's very cross is not
+problematic but a fact assured by unbroken record.
+
+A printed sheet describing the sacred objects in the _Cámera Santa_ is
+given to each visitor. It would be easy to turn many of these relics of
+a more naïve, less logical age, into ridicule. To one, however, who
+tries to see a new land with comprehending sympathy, to which alone it
+will reveal itself, these relics, brought back from the Holy Land by
+crusading knight or warrior bishop, are tender memorials of a great hour
+of Christian enthusiasm. One of the strongest traits of Spanish
+character is reverence for all links that bind it to its past,
+especially its religious past, and happy it is for such old treasures
+that they find shelter in a land where a _Cámera Santa_ is still a
+shrine, not a museum. "_¡Triste de la nación que deja caer en el olvido
+las ideas y concepciones de sus majores!_"
+
+If Oviedo itself is disappointing to those who seek the antiquely
+picturesque, the countryside that encircles it is doubly lovely. On a
+bright Sunday morning we walked out a few miles to see the church of
+Santa María de Naranco, built by Ramiro I back in 850. It was a steep
+scramble up the mountain side, for the road was like a torrent bed.
+Peasants on donkeys passed, on their way into the town for their day of
+rest, some with brightly decorated bagpipes groaning out their
+merriment. To avoid the sea of mud in the high road, we took short-cuts
+up the hills, following a peasant who, seated sideways on her donkey,
+balanced on her head a huge loaf of bread. And her bread, round and
+flattened in the center, was the exact shape of the loaves chiseled,
+centuries before, in the Bible scenes of Burgos choir-stalls. The old
+woman smiled and nodded as she smoked her cigarettes, watching us pick
+our way with difficulty where the tiny hoofs of her ass trod lightly.
+What cares a Spanish peasant whether the road is good or bad when he has
+a sure-footed donkey to carry him!
+
+At length we reached the small church built by the third king after
+Pelayo. It is a room thirty-six by fifteen feet, with a chamber at the
+east and another at the west end. Along the north and south walls are
+pillars from which spring the arcades, and these pillars and arches make
+the support of the building; the walls merely fill in. This is the
+earliest example in Spain of the separation into active and passive
+members; whether the idea came from Lombardy or was of native birth is
+not known.
+
+We climbed still higher up the red sandstone hill, among gnarled old
+chestnut trees, to where the ancient church of San Miguel de Lino
+stands. The oriental windows, being in Spain, would naturally be thought
+of Moorish origin, but their Eastern source antedates the Moor. They
+came from the Byzantine East, by way of the Bosphorus, not the Straits
+of Gibraltar. They are reminiscent of the time when the Goths, before
+their invasion of Spain, lived around the Danube.
+
+On July 25th the scene near these two churches is a striking one. The
+village of Naranco is emptied of its folk that pious morn, as the
+peasants, in the same tranquil beauty as in old Greece, lead their
+garlanded oxen and heifers up to San Miguel. So unchanging are Spain's
+customs that the festival is paid for out of the spoils taken at the
+battle of Clavigo (in 846), where tradition says the loved patron of the
+Peninsula, the Apostle St. James, "_él de España_," came to fight in
+person. We were not so fortunate as to see this feast of Sant Jago, but
+we stumbled on a beautiful minor scene. As we returned by Santa María de
+Naranco, a group of peasants stood round the priest on the raised porch
+of the church, the center of interest being a baby three days old. Few
+women can resist a baptism, that solemn first step in a Christian life,
+so we drew near. The father was a superb-looking youth of about twenty,
+in a black velvet jacket; his crisp curly hair, his glow of color, and
+the proud outline of his features made him fit subject for the artist.
+The godmother, his sister it seemed from the resemblance, was a buxom
+girl in Sunday finery; the godfather was a younger brother of fourteen,
+who awkwardly held the precious burden. The old priest wore the wooden
+clogs of the people and made a terrible racket with every step. From the
+porch he led the way into the church, and after pausing half way to read
+prayers,--a scuffling old sexton held aslant a dripping candle,--they
+came to the baptismal font in the raised chamber at the west end. The
+young father went forward to the altar steps to kneel alone, and the
+godfather, with great earnestness, gave the responses. Then the _cura_
+poured the blessed water on the tiny head, and to prevent cold wiped it
+gently. The ceremony over, his wooden shoes clattered into the
+sacristy, the sexton blew out the candle, and the agile godmother
+claimed her woman's prerogative and tossed and crooned to the young
+Christian as she tied ribbons and cap-strings. The two strangers who had
+witnessed this moving little scene under the primitive carving of the
+Visigothic church wished to leave a good-luck piece for the small
+Manuela. But when they put the coin into the hand of the young parent
+who still knelt before the altar, he returned it with a beautiful,
+flashing smile. In halting Spanish they explained their good-luck
+wishes, and in that spirit the gift was accepted.
+
+Seen from Naranco, the red-tiled roofs of Oviedo encircled by
+far-stretching mountains made a romantic enough scene. Seated on the
+trunk of a chestnut tree we watched the sun set over the exquisite
+valley. Immediately round us on the hillside had once stood the city of
+King Ramiro, obliterated as completely as the earlier Ph[oe]nician and
+Roman settlements in Spain. The dead city where we sat, the town below,
+distant from the bustle of the world yet fast approaching it, the glow
+and sweep of the sunset,--it is at moments such as these that the mind
+enlarges to a swift comprehension, untranslatable in speech, of the
+passing breath the ages are. The mountains change, the rivers
+capriciously leave their beds,--especially in Spain, where bridges
+stand lost in green meadows and are left undisturbed, for does not a
+proverb say, "Rivers return to forsaken beds after a thousand years?"
+And Spain has patience to wait! Whether it was the new-born child, the
+forgotten city, the up-to-date town below, or just the sun setting over
+that illimitable expanse of mountains, Santa María Naranco gave one an
+hour of the higher philosophy.
+
+In the after-glow we walked back to Oviedo. Along the way the returning
+country people greeted us with ease and dignity: "_Vaya Usted con
+Dios_," the beautiful salutation, "Go thou with God," heard from one end
+of the land to the other. The beggar gives you thanks with it, the shop
+man dismisses you, the friend takes farewell, but its pleasantest sound
+is in the country, heard from the lips of clear-eyed peasants passing in
+the evening light.
+
+This peasantry is by instinct well-bred, proud of a pure descent, by
+nature a gentleman, a _caballero_. A traveler's life and pocket are
+absolutely secure in these unfrequented northern provinces of "dark and
+scowling Spain." For a century those who have turned aside from the
+beaten track have brought back the same tale of courtesy and
+hospitality. There is much of Arcadian gentleness among these unlettered
+people. The Spanish _labrador_ may not read or write, but he cannot be
+called ignorant; statistics here do not guide one to a true knowledge.
+The country people hand down in the primitive way, from one generation
+to the other, a ripe store of human wisdom, that often gives them a
+wider outlook on life and a deeper strength of character than that of
+the educated man who shallowly criticises them. They are unspoiled and
+very human, the women essentially feminine, the men essentially manly;
+daily this note of virility strikes one,--one grows to love their
+expressive, beautiful word, _varonil_. "The man in the saloon steamer
+has seen all the races of men, and he is thinking of the things that
+divide men,--diet, dress, decorum, rings in the nose as in Africa, or in
+the ears as in Europe. The man in the cabbage field has seen nothing at
+all; but he is thinking of the things that unite men,--hunger, and
+babies, and the beauty of women, and the promise or menace of the sky."
+When one can say a thing like that, one is born to appreciate Spain.
+Will not Mr. Gilbert Chesterton go there and study some day her
+untamable grand old qualities and describe her as she should be
+described? If such a country population had had good government during
+the past three hundred years instead of the worst of tyrannies, where
+would it stand to-day? Though such a surmise is foolish, for perhaps it
+is because of its isolation that the Spanish peasantry is racy and
+vigorous. Knowing the hopelessness of battling against corruption in
+high places in Madrid, it lived out of touch with modern life, elevated
+by its intense faith, the hard-won inheritance from the
+_Reconquista_,--and a peasant's faith is his form of poetry and
+ideality, which when taken from him makes him lose in refinement and
+charm.
+
+Back in the Basque provinces the new idea had dawned on us that this was
+not a spent, degenerate race, but a young unspoiled one, and every
+excursion in the country parts of Spain made deeper the assurance of red
+blood coursing in her veins. Corrupt government has deeply tainted the
+city classes, has made loafers, and men who open their trusts to the
+silver key, but the heart of the people is sound. It has been tragically
+wounded by rulers to whom, an heroic trait, it has ever been loyal. If a
+country after centuries of misrule had the same power to govern herself
+as a nation that had had enlightened government for the same length of
+time, would not one of the best arguments for good government be lost?
+It may be a long time before Spain learns the restraint of self-rule.
+But go among the vigorous mountaineers of the north, talk with the
+patient, sober Castilian _labrador_, watch the Catalan men of industry
+and you will see the possibility of her future. A noble esprit de corps
+controls the Guardia Civil who are the keepers of law and security in
+Spain, to whom a bribe is an insult. Let the same spirit extend to the
+other departments,--to the post, to the railway, the civil government;
+let the judge sit on an impregnable height; let the priest of Andalusia
+have as solemn a realization of his office as the priest of Navarre, of
+Aragon, of old Castile; let the women be given a wider education (though
+may nothing ever change their present qualities as wives and mothers),
+and Spain is on the right road.
+
+Cavadonga was merely a two days' trip from Oviedo, yet we had to forego
+it. The weather was too abominable; while Málaga on the southern coast
+of Spain has an average of but fifty-two rainy days in the year, this
+city on the northern coast has only fifty-two cloudless days. The
+thought of a rickety diligence over miles of muddy roads kept enthusiasm
+within bounds. After a short pause in the Asturian capital we took the
+train back to León. The valleys were a veritable paradise; now we
+skirted a wide river flowing under heavily-wooded hills, now we crossed
+fields covered with the autumn crocus, and saw from the balconies of the
+farmhouses yellow tapestries of corn cobs hung out to dry.
+
+Some day, not so far distant as an ideal government in Spain, the lover
+of independence and untouched nature will come to these northern
+provinces instead of going to hotel-infested Switzerland. The temperate
+climate, the trout and salmon rivers, the courtesy of the people, make
+these valleys between the mountains and the sea an ideal tramping and
+camping ground for the summer.
+
+
+
+
+THE SLEEPING CITIES OF LEÓN
+
+    "I stood before the triple northern porch
+     Where dedicated shapes of saints and kings,
+     Stern faces bleared with immemorial watch,
+     Looked down benignly grave and seemed to say:
+     'Ye come and go incessant; we remain
+     Safe in the hallowed quiets of the past;
+     Be reverent, ye who flit and are forgot
+     Of faith so nobly realized as this.'"
+
+    JAMES RUSSELL LOWELL.
+
+
+There have been many efforts to divide Spain into right-angled
+departments similar to those of her neighbor France. The individual land
+throws off such efforts to bring her into geometric proportion: never
+can her thirteen immemorial divisions, her thirteen historic provinces
+be wiped out. Each is an entity with ineradicable characteristics and
+customs. Their boundaries may seem confused on a paper map, but they are
+reasonable in the flesh and blood geography of mountains and river
+valleys, or the psychological geography of early affiliation and
+conquest.
+
+No Alfonso or Ferdinand will ever be King of Spain, but King of the
+Spains, _Rey de las Españas_. _Mi paisano_, the term which stands for
+the closest bond of fellowship, is used by an Aragonese of an Aragonese,
+by a Catalan of a Catalan, never by an Aragonese of an Andalusian, or a
+Catalan of a Castilian. The independent Basque provinces, (where the
+monarch is merely a lord) the free mountain towns of Navarre,
+stiff-necked Aragon, these never will merge themselves in Old Castile.
+Nor can Catalonia, self-centered, humming with manufactures and seething
+with anarchy, understand pleasure-loving Andalusia, that basks under
+fragrant orange trees as it smiles its ceaseless _mañana_. Valencia and
+Murcia, where crop follows crop in prodigal fruitfulness are the
+antithesis of desolate Estremadura, and of that immortal desert of Don
+Quixote the denuded steppes of New Castile, to their north. And the
+mountain provinces of Galicia and the Asturias, of idyllic hill and
+dale, yet with seaports fast awakening to commercial life, look with
+little sympathy on the sluggish province of León that borders them.
+
+Industrial advancement is on its gradual way in Spain, but there is not
+a hint of its movement in this oldest of the separate kingdoms. Zamora,
+Astorga, León, Salamanca, the romantic cities of the earlier days of
+chivalry, lie asleep; the whistle of the railways has failed to rouse
+them. You must lay aside all theories of modern comfort here, and make
+the tour in the spirit of a pilgrim lover of the antique and
+picturesque. What else could be expected in a province where the
+peasantry still embroider their coarse linen sheets with castles and
+heraldic lions, in a land where even the blazonry of a city rings with a
+psalm, _Ego autem ad Deum clamavi_. The centuries of forays have
+bequeathed a hardy endurance to the people, but they are the cause at
+the same time of the scanty population of the plains, the tragic evil of
+central Spain.
+
+We got to the city of León the day of a horse fair. Fresh from
+wide-awake Oviedo, it was like stepping back into an older world; here
+was old Spain much as it was in the time of Guzmán[13] the Good, the
+defender of Tarifa in 1294, whose _casa solar_ faced the plaza where the
+fair was held. The peasants who bargained in groups, wore toga-draped
+capes and wide-brimmed felt hats edged with an inch of velvet; every
+horse in Spain must have been gathered there, and an equal number of
+kind-eyed woolly little donkeys, essential factors of a Spanish scene.
+"The Castilian donkey has a philosophic, deliberate air," wrote
+Théophile Gautier on his sympathetic tour in the Peninsula seventy years
+ago, "he understands very well they can't do without him; he is one of
+the family, he has read 'Don Quixote,' and he flatters himself he
+descends in direct line from the famous ass of Sancho Panza."
+
+A step beyond the horse fair brought us to massive Roman walls with
+frequent semi-circular towers; León's name comes from Augustus' 7th
+Legion who fortified it against the highlanders of the north. Built into
+the walls is the remarkable church of San Isidoro encrusted with later
+work, but with the strong Romanesque lines still prominent. The pilgrims
+who flocked from Europe to Santiago Compostella in the Middle Ages were
+partly the means of bringing this style into Spain; thus San Isidoro is
+of Burgundian origin, just as Santiago Cathedral resembles Saint-Sernin
+in Toulouse, and the Catalan churches show Lombard features. Though the
+Spaniard adapted the style to his own character, adding the original
+feature of outside cloisters for the laity, its importation nipped in
+the bud a just beginning national architecture, whose loss cannot but be
+regretted. San Isidoro has a privilege seldom given, the Blessed
+Sacrament being exposed every day of the year, and always before its
+lighted altar one sees veiled figures kneeling. It served as the
+pantheon for the kings who followed Ordoño II--twelfth in descent from
+Pelayo--who removed his capital from Oviedo here, and the ancient burial
+chamber still has ceilings painted in the stiff Byzantine manner with
+obscure color, hard lines, and lack of perspective, probably the oldest
+paintings in Spain. The "Romancero" tells how Jimena, the gallant,
+golden-haired wife of the Cid, came here after the birth of her child to
+attend Mass. She wore the velvet robes given her by the king on the day
+of her marriage, a richly jeweled hair-net, gift of the Infanta Urraca,
+her rival; around her neck painted medals of San Lázaro and San Pedro,
+_santos de su devoción_, and so beautiful was she that the sun stood
+still in his course to see her better. At the church door the king met
+her and escorted her in honor, for was not her husband away fighting the
+infidel for his monarch? There is so true a ring to the old ballads that
+Jimena lives a real personage.
+
+"_Oviedo la sacra, Toledo la rica, Sevilla la grande, Salamanca la
+fuerte, León la bella_" runs an old verse on Spanish Cathedrals. And the
+Cathedral of León merits its name. It is harmoniously beautiful, pure
+French-Gothic, graceful and elegant, classic if the word is permissible
+for the unrestrained individualism of Gothic art. Built in one age
+without intermission, in 1303 the Bishop announced that no further
+contributions were needed, and the centuries since have left the church
+untouched. Here no cold Herrera portal usurps some lovely pointed work
+and Churrigueresque extravagancies are not prominent: the late
+restorations have followed the first plans.
+
+[Illustration: _Copyright, 1910, by Underwood & Underwood_
+
+THE CATHEDRAL OF LEÓN]
+
+Always excepting the _Pórtico de la Gloria_ in Santiago, the west
+doorways of León Cathedrals stand for the best in Spanish sculpture. The
+statue of the _Virgen Blanca_ in the center is famous. Around her the
+saints and apostles are grouped in appealing attitudes;--out of
+proportion though they may be as to hands and feet, their sincerity
+covers all flaws: here, a homely face with care-worn wrinkles of
+goodness; there, one beaming in satisfaction to be standing in such a
+chosen band. The lunette over the central door is delightful. On one
+side, in Heaven, a clerk plays the organ, while a boy blows the bellows,
+and groups stand chatting near, for a Spaniard's idea of bliss, in those
+days also, took the form of ease and desultory talk. Hell, on the
+opposite side, not to be outdone, has two urchins blowing bellows as
+well, not to make music but to quicken a fiery caldron into which devils
+are thrusting the sinners. The enjoyment of the old sculptor in his
+Heaven and Hell was too keen to be confined in the lunette and he has
+spread himself over the curving of the arches; in spite of time and
+retouching these three doorways show exquisite detail chiseling.
+
+    "About their shoulders sparrows had built nests
+     And fluttered, chirping, from gray perch to perch,
+     Now on a miter poising, now a crown,
+     Irreverently happy."
+
+Within León Cathedral all is quiet and solemn, a true beauty of
+holiness. There is no clutter of side chapels in the nave but a sheer
+sweep of windows filled with the jeweled glass of Flemish masters.[14]
+These windows come as a surprise in a land where churches are guarded
+from the sun, and often the open triforium and clearstory, as at Avila,
+are walled up later to darken the interior. The chancel and choir are
+worth detail study. The _coro_ seats have panels carved with single
+figures,--saints with their emblems, warriors with raised visors,
+placid-faced nuns, thoughtful bishops, gallant pages with their crossed
+feet gracefully poised,--all of a noble type, with high brow and
+aquiline nose. Spain has comparatively nothing to show in the way of
+frescoes, she had no early Masaccio, no Giotto, no Filippo Lippi, to
+paint the costumes and features of his generation, but wood carvings are
+her substitute; in them, and in her unrivaled tombs can be read the
+contemporary history of warrior, bishop, and page. The _retablo_ of the
+High Altar is of the same simple elegance as the rest of the church. The
+usual towering one of carved scenes would have been singularly out of
+place, it is appropriate for the big dark interior of Seville Cathedral,
+but here are grace and restraint instead of grandeur and mystery, and
+most suitable are the ancient paintings of varying sizes, gathered from
+scattered churches and framed together. Radiating round the chancel are
+chapels that give to the exterior view of the apse a truly French-Gothic
+air, flying buttresses supporting the cap of the _capilla mayor_.
+
+Romanesque, Gothic, and Plateresque are each well represented in León
+City. In the last style is the noticeable convent of San Marcos that
+stands isolated outside the town beside the swift blue-green river. The
+Knights of Santiago built a resting-place on their pilgrimage route back
+in the 12th century, but the present building is of Isabella's day, and
+the architect has given free rein to his silversmith's arabesques and
+medallions, and scattered pilgrim shells all over the façade of the
+church. We tried to get into the Museum, now in the convent, as it
+contains some good wood carvings, but an aged beggar at the door
+explained "_Mañana_," the easy "to-morrow," as prevalent in León as in
+Andalusia,--then rising to the occasion as only an Italian or Spanish
+beggar can, he swept open his toga-draped cape, smiling as he pointed to
+the entrance door: "To-morrow, after your morning chocolate, it will be
+open for you."
+
+It was sunset as we turned away. The long mass of San Marcos stood
+boldly against the red glow of the sky. The horizon was outlined by the
+blue mountains of Asturias. With our imagination filled with the old
+days when pilgrims flocked here from England, from the forests of
+Germany, from the Po and the Danube, suddenly over the ancient bridge
+rode a troop of cavaliers on prancing steeds, in cloaks and plumed hats.
+The kindly blessed illusion hid the fact that our pilgrim-knights were
+sturdy peasants in the national _capa_, riding their long-haired horses
+back from the city fair.
+
+    "Sin el vivo calor, sin el fecundo
+     Rayo de la ilusión consoladora
+     ¿Que fuera de la vida y del mundo?"
+
+asks one of Spain's poets of the 19th century, Núñez de Arce, and in his
+native country it takes but little effort of the imagination to repeople
+the solemn churches, the narrow city streets, or the treeless plain
+with the romantic figures of the past.
+
+The following day at dawn, after a miserable night in rooms like icy
+death, a true pilgrim night of endurance, we took the train for the
+west. As we entered the railway carriage _Reservado para Señoras_ a
+sleepy railway-guard stumbled out of the further door; all through the
+journey in the north, we roused these cozily-ensconced railway-officials,
+for so rare are ladies alone on this route, that the conductors have
+fallen into the habit of sleeping in the carriage reserved for them.
+When our tickets were collected we were given many a severe look for
+daring to upset a _cosa de España_.
+
+On the way from León to Astorga, little over thirty miles, the
+realization of the old pilgrim route is vivid. Before reaching Astorga
+comes the paladin's bridge,[15] of Órbigo, where in the reign of
+Isabella's father ten _caballeros andantes_ challenged every passing
+pilgrim to a bout of arms; if a lady came without a cavalier to fight
+for her, she forfeited her glove, if any knight declined to fight he
+lost his sword and spur. The age of knight errantry which Cervantes has
+haloed with a deathless charm, breathes in this historic Pass of Honour.
+The leader, Suero de Quiñones, came of the great Guzmán family, to which
+St. Dominic belonged, and of which the Empress Eugénie was a scion. To
+show his captivity to his lady, every Thursday he wore an iron chain
+round his neck, but when victor in this tourney, it was removed with
+solemnity by the heralds. Suero's sword is to be seen to-day in the
+Madrid Armory where in an hour more of Spain's real history is learned
+than in years of reading.
+
+The Roman walls of Astorga, seen from the railway present an imposing
+appearance: here, as at León and Lugo, the frequent half-circular towers
+do not rise above the crest of the walls. Astorga must have looked just
+like this when the pilgrims rode by to the shrine of St. James. A closer
+inspection spoils the illusion however, for the proud city that once
+ranked as a grandee of Spain is to-day a very tattered and worn hidalgo,
+and there is a sad air of desolation about its plaza and crumbling
+walls. Whether or not it was because our ramble was by early morning
+before the inhabitants were astir, at any rate I brought away a picture
+of a depopulated town. There were but a few silent worshipers under the
+clustered piers of the late-Gothic Cathedral, whose reddish tower is
+the important feature of the distant view. What had tempted us to pause
+a night in Astorga was the wood-carved _retablo_ by Becerra in the
+Cathedral, but we found it by no means equal to the work of the carvers
+in Valladolid. Becerra had studied under Vasari in Rome, and the
+influence is shown too plainly. There is a curious weather cock on the
+church, a wooden statue called Pedro Mata, dressed in the costume of a
+singular tribe that lives in some thirty villages near by. The origin of
+the Maragatos is involved in mystery; some say they are the descendants
+of Moors taken in battle, some of Goths who sided with the Moors. During
+all these centuries they have kept separate from the people about them,
+like gypsies they marry only with themselves. They should not be
+confounded with _gitanos_, however, for the Maragatos are honest and
+industrious; they are the carriers of the countryside, with the
+privilege of taking precedence on the road. Here and there in Spain one
+stumbles on a strange, isolated relic of the past such as this. Astorga
+was still sleeping, in the literal as well as figurative sense, when we
+left; a walk on top of the walls looking out over the León plain, a
+regret that we could not sketch the artistic church of San Julián, with
+its faded green door and crumbling portal, and we turned south. On the
+train I discovered that a five franc piece given me in change by the
+innkeeper, was nothing but a bit of silver-washed brass advertising the
+cakes of one Casimiro in Salamanca, and I, seeing the king's effigy, had
+thought it a genuine Spanish dollar,--it is easy to be caught napping in
+León.
+
+Zamora is not many miles from Astorga and like the other sleepy towns of
+the province, it too seems to feel it has a right to a long pause in
+obscurity after its heroic centuries of Moorish warfare. The great hour
+of the city was the time of the Cid; the "Romancero" should be in one's
+pocket here. One of its stirring incidents is the death of King
+Ferdinand I, in 1065, and its sequel of battles and sieges. The king
+lies on his deathbed, holding a candle, great prelates at his head and
+his four sons on his right hand. With the fatal propensity of Spanish
+rulers to bequeath discord, he divides his kingdom among his sons; to
+Don Sancho, Castile; León to Alfonso; the Basque provinces to García;
+the fourth son already was of enough importance, "_Arzobispo de Toledo,
+Maestre de Santiago, Abad en Zaragoza, de las Españas, Primado_." The
+king's daughter Urraca, she who had given the Cid's wife, Jimena, her
+jeweled hair-net, now complains bitterly that she is left out of the
+inheritance, so her dying father gives her the fortress-city of Zamora,
+"_muy preciada, fuerte es á maravilla_," and "who takes it from you let
+my curse fall on him." In spite of which threat her wicked brother
+Sancho, besieges the city,--a Spanish proverb for patience runs: "_No se
+ganó Zamora en una hora._" With Sancho comes his chief warrior Roderick
+Díaz de Bivar, given the title of Cid Campeador, Lord Champion, by the
+Moorish envoys who here met him. The Cid had wellnigh fought an entrance
+into the city when the intrepid Urraca ascends a tower--to-day called
+the Afuera Tower--and delivers her famous scolding.
+
+    "¡Afuera! Afuera! Rodrigo,
+     El sóberbio Castellano!"
+
+"Out! Out! Rodrigo, proud Castilian! Remember the past! When you were
+knighted before the altar of Santiago, and my father, your sponsor, gave
+you your armor, my mother gave you your steed, and I laced on your
+spurs! For I thought to be your bride, but you, proud Castilian, set
+aside a king's daughter to wed that of a mere Count!" And the ballad
+tells how the Cid, hearing her upbraiding with emotion, retired with his
+men.
+
+The only present attraction of the decayed town is its Cathedral, set
+high above the Duero on the edge of the bluff along which Zamora
+stretches. It was built by the Cid's confessor, Bishop Gerónimo, the
+dome above the transept crossing being an original feature which the
+bishop was to elaborate later in the old Cathedral of Salamanca; as
+Trinity Church, Boston, is copied from this last, Zamora has a special
+interest for the visitor from New England. We had a four hours' pause
+there, ample time to see the city. It was raining so dismally that my
+fellow traveler decided not to face a certain drenching, as the
+long-drawn-out town had to be traversed before reaching the Cathedral.
+In an unfortunate moment I started out alone for what I supposed would
+be a leisurely exploring of a venerable city. Fleeing in distress would
+better describe the reality, for every hooting boy and girl in Zamora
+followed at my heels. Whether it was a white ulster or an automobile
+veil tied over my hat as the wind was high, or just the unaccustomed
+figure of a stranger in those narrow streets, an excited crowd pursued
+me the whole length of the town. In front, walking backward,
+open-mouthed, went a dozen urchins, and behind came a long brigade I
+hardly dared look back on, it so increased with every step. Men hastened
+to their shop doors to wonder at the crowd, and the passers-by stood
+still in astonishment; a feeling of horror came over me at such
+publicity. In vain I fled into churches in the hope of escaping the
+relentless little pests; when I emerged they greeted me with howls of
+pleasure. I angrily shook my umbrella at them, but that only added to
+the glorious excitement. Here and there a kind woman came to the
+bothered stranger's help, and scattered the crowd. The children merely
+scampered down side streets to meet me again in still greater numbers at
+the next corner. It is easy to laugh now that it is over, but at the
+time there is small amusement in fleeing through a foreign city pursued
+by forty hooting youngsters, to have them press round you in a stifling
+circle when you pause to look in your book, to have them gaze long and
+seriously at you, then burst into uncontrollable laughter so that in
+desperation you begin to feel if you have two noses or six eyes. We had
+decided that in most of the unfrequented towns of Spain, the children
+were a nuisance; in Zamora they were positive vampires. A visitor in the
+future had best wear black, a black veil on the head, a black
+prayer-book in the hand, as if on the way to church, then resembling
+other people, the children may let her pass. But a white ulster and a
+red guide book are magic pipes of Hamelin to lure every idle child in
+Zamora. In spite of wind and rain, and a lengthy disappearance within
+the Cathedral, it was only on reëntering the station, several hours
+after they had first seized on their prey, that the unsolicited escort
+left me, and even then they hung round the door till the shriek of the
+engine told them the escaped lunatic who had given them so splendid an
+afternoon's entertainment was out of reach.
+
+
+
+
+GALICIA
+
+    "Blessed the natures shored on every side
+     With landmarks of hereditary thought!
+     Thrice happy they that wander not lifelong
+     Beyond near succour of the household faith,
+     The guarded fold that shelters, not confines!
+     Their steps find patience in familiar paths
+     Printed with hope by loved feet gone before
+     Of parent, child or lover, glorified
+     By simple magic of dividing Time."
+
+    JAMES RUSSELL LOWELL.
+
+
+Jerusalem, Rome, Santiago,--perhaps this claims too much for the Spanish
+pilgrimage shrine? It would not in the Middle Ages, when the Christians
+of all Europe flocked there to pray beside the tomb of St. James the
+Elder, the patron of Spain invoked in the battle cry of her chivalry for
+a thousand years, "_¡Santiago y cierra España!_"--"St. James and close
+Spain!" A Latin certificate used to be given to every pilgrim, and it
+was kept among family records, for there were properties that could only
+be inherited if one had gone to Santiago Compostella. To-day Spaniards
+are the only devotees, though as I write I see that a band of English
+pilgrims with the Archbishop of Westminster at its head is visiting the
+far-off corner of Galicia. Though few travelers turn out of their way
+there, it is one of the most characteristic spots to be seen in Spain, a
+solemn old granite city, with arcaded streets and vast half-empty
+caravansaries darkened with humidity and age.
+
+It takes over fifteen hours to go from León to Santiago, but the journey
+is a beautiful one, with mountains and fertile valleys, and rivers such
+as the Sill and that gem of the province, the Miño. At Monforte the
+railway branches, one line goes to Túy and Santiago, and the other turns
+up to Lugo and Coruña. We took this last, tempted by accounts of Lugo.
+
+It is indeed a unique little city, walled around without a break by
+Roman battlements forty feet high, on the top of which is the
+fashionable promenade of the town. With its walls and the view from
+them, it closely resembles Lucca. Lugo was a surprise in various ways.
+It had a hotel, the "Fernán Núñez," so up-to-date that it boasted a
+tiled bathroom with hot water and a shower bath. Not only the
+comfortable inn but the streets of the town were a model of propriety.
+As always, our steps turned first to the Cathedral, spoiled outside, as
+is unfortunately the way in Spain, by those two disastrous centuries,
+the seventeenth and eighteenth, but within being of the lovely
+transition period, Romanesque as it merged into Gothic, with the arches
+just slightly pointed. The irrepressible Churriguera has worked himself
+into the inside of the church too; his canopy over the High Altar is
+abominable, though it would take more than that to detract from the
+simple solemnity of such a church. Lugo is one of the holiest spots in
+the Peninsula, like San Isidoro in León, it claims the privilege of
+perpetual exposition of the Blessed Sacrament, only more privileged than
+León, exposed night as well as day. So proud is the province of this
+ancient custom that the Host is represented on the shield of Galicia.
+
+No matter at what hour you enter the Cathedral, there are worshipers;
+two priests always kneel before the tabernacle, and they never kneel
+alone. The scenes of humble piety drew me back to the church again and
+again with compelling attraction. To me a Spaniard praying unconsciously
+before the altar is unequaled by any act of worship I have witnessed;
+not even the touching Russian pilgrims in Jerusalem kissing the pavement
+in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, nor the Arab at sunset kneeling
+alone in the desert, can impress more powerfully. It seemed as if this
+tranquil shrine of Lugo spread an influence of uplifting thought through
+the whole contented little town; in the quiet afternoon a withered
+grandmother knelt with her hands on the head of a little tot of six who
+repeated the prayers that fell from the old lips, or three young women
+of the upper class sought a retired corner of the church to repeat
+together their daily chaplet; now in a side chapel, a peasant thinking
+herself unobserved, in a glow of devotion, encircled the altar on her
+knees.
+
+On leaving the west door of the Cathedral, we ascended the inclined path
+that leads to the promenade on top of the walls. It was sunset, an
+exquisite hour to look out on the well-wooded countryside, through which
+meandered the trout-filled Miño. In the distance were mountains. No
+wonder the Romans, who ferreted out most of the choice spots of Europe,
+used to come to this city for the thermal baths. The handsome modern
+Lugonians strolled around the ramparts, pausing to chat here and there
+in the semicircles made by the numerous towers of the wall. Now a
+white-haired matron draped in the national mantilla, loitered leisurely
+by, with some of the higher ecclesiastics of the Cathedral; now a mother
+and two grave, pretty daughters passed, watched discreetly by the young
+beaux. Evidently far-off little Lugo, tucked away in the unknown
+northwestern corner of Spain, had a social life that sufficed for
+itself, with no envy of Madrid and San Sebastián. The local contentment
+found everywhere in the country struck me as admirable. Will "progress"
+unsettle it? We could have stayed a month in Lugo. To fish in the Miño,
+to ramble over the fertile country, to feel about one peaceful,
+contented human beings, would make a summer there a happy experience.
+
+When we went on to Coruña, a commercial town that, like seaports the
+world over, has a rough populace, we were glad to have first seen Doña
+Emilia Pardo Bazán's loved province at pretty Lugo. In travel there must
+always be, I suppose, some places that one slights; one knows if one
+stayed long enough they might show a pleasanter side. We treated Coruña
+in this way. Sir John Moore, buried at midnight during the Peninsula
+War, was our association with the town before going there, and for all
+we saw of it Sir John will remain the chief association of the future.
+We only saw the flat, commercial district that skirts the bay, not the
+headland where the old town lies. Slatternly beggars pestered us, bold,
+bare-legged girls stood mocking at the unaccustomed sight of foreign
+women traveling; it was with relief we took the diligence that started
+at noon for Santiago.
+
+I shall never cease regretting that we did not wait till the following
+day, when an electric diligence makes the journey, for that eight hours'
+trip over the hills to the capital was for us the only horrible
+experience of our tour in Spain. I wish I might blot out its memory, but
+as I am setting down frankly everything that occurred, this scene of
+cruelty must be told of, too. In the omnibus with us were but two other
+people, and there were five horses; there seemed no reason to foresee
+trouble. For the first relay of twelve miles all went well, and we
+enjoyed looking back from the hills on the blue Atlantic where the
+headland of Coruña jutted boldly out. Our drivers treated the horses
+with consideration and dismounted at every ascent. But, alas, for the
+second relay, we changed men and changed animals. Two young vagabonds
+were now on the box, driving four such miserable, bony nags that it tore
+the heart to see the sores the rope harness had made. We protested at
+the use of such horses, but in vain. Twelve miles lay behind,
+twenty-four were ahead, there were no inns, so we hesitated to desert
+the diligence, but had we realized the two hours of purgatory we were to
+face, we had dismounted and walked back to Coruña.
+
+One young wretch drove with loud cries and slashing blows; the other
+alighted to beat the quivering animals up the hills. They guided so
+recklessly that we were once dashed down the bank into the gutter, and
+soon after run into a hay-cart and the wheels unlocked with difficulty.
+When at length they began to strike the spent beasts over the eyes our
+anger burst all bounds. In a heat of fury never before experienced, and
+I hope never again, we attacked those two brutal boys. I do not think
+they will soon forget that scene. At first they replied with impudence
+and went on lashing the horses. But impudence soon ceased. When two
+women are in earnest and are fearless of consequences, and have stout
+umbrellas, they win the day. The twelve miles of their escort over, and
+new horses harnessed to the diligence--those four pitiful, bleeding
+victims led away!--the two scoundrels slunk off, sore on arms and
+shoulders as well as shamed in spirit, for the country people who
+gathered round supported our protest. The remaining miles to Santiago
+finished well, with good drivers and stout horses. But never will the
+horror of those two hours leave me. In fairness I must add that this was
+the only scene of cruelty I saw during the eight months in Spain, and
+again and again I noticed plump happy donkeys who were treated as
+members of the family. It is far-fetched to account for this unfortunate
+instance by the bull-fight, since in countries that have no such
+spectacles, veritable skeletons are made to haul cabs, and poor jades
+are used for drag horses. But I cannot help seizing on this opening for
+a little tirade against the national game of Spain, which Fernán
+Caballero, who loved her home with passionate affection called,
+"inhuman, immoral, an anachronism in this century." The sports of other
+lands are open to harsh criticism. I do not think a Spaniard is more
+cruel by nature than an Englishman; in both nations is a certain
+proportion of coarsened characters,--the northern country may keep them
+better out of sight in the slums.
+
+Northern Europe is to-day more humane to animals than southern Europe,
+because the women of the north have had greater freedom and have entered
+into philanthropic interests such as this. Kindness to animals is a
+modern movement everywhere (may the shade of St. Francis of Assisi
+forgive this half statement!) Spain need not be too discouraged by being
+behindhand. The bony exhausted horses used within my own remembrance on
+our American street-car lines, to drag cars laden each evening to twice
+the beasts' strength, would not be tolerated to-day, and this change has
+been wrought by societies for the prevention of cruelty to animals, the
+membership made up chiefly of women and children. Would that Spanish
+ladies could be pricked to action by the statement of a living French
+novelist, made in ignorance of late conditions in America and England,
+that kindness to animals is a Protestant virtue. It is neither
+Protestant nor Catholic, but common to all human societies where women
+are allowed to aid with their gentler instincts in the public welfare of
+their country. The bull and the man are sport and skill, that part I
+can understand. It is the agony of the horses that is a disgrace to
+these shows, worn-out nags who can make no resistance are used, and when
+the bull gores them, their entrails are thrust back and the dying beasts
+pricked on to the fray. Herein lies the great difference between
+bull-fights to-day, which are debased money-making spectacles only taken
+part in by professionals, and the more chivalrous sport of earlier times
+when the hidalgo was _toreador_, and proper steeds that could defend
+themselves were used.
+
+The bull-fight is found in Spain so early that its origin from the Roman
+period in the Peninsula, or from the first Mohammedan conquerors, is
+disputed. The Cid took part in a game, and games celebrated the marriage
+of Alfonso VII's daughter Urraca to the king of Navarre. During the
+reign of Isabella's father, Juan II, the _corrida de toros_ was much in
+vogue. Queen Isabella herself disliked the sport, and in one of her
+letters she vows never to witness it. On the birth of Philip II in
+Valladolid, Charles V killed a bull in the arena. The _fiestas_
+continued under the Hapsburg Philips, until the advent of the French
+Philip V, in 1700. He so slighted this national sport that gentlemen
+ceased to take part in it, and it sank to its present level. It is now
+so well paying an affair that the only way to reform it would be
+through concerted action on the part of Spanish women. It is a crusade
+worthy of them.
+
+A night of rest in the hotel at Santiago and the painful scene of the
+day before was somewhat dimmed. Early in the morning I started out to
+explore the old pilgrim city. It has a distinct character of its own,
+seldom have I felt so decided a place-influence. It is very solemn, very
+gray, very stately and aloof. On many of the houses the pilgrim shell is
+carved; the streets are paved with granite and the vast hospices are of
+the same severe stone, moss-grown and damp; grass also grows between the
+big granite slabs of the silent, imposing squares. Santiago does not
+belong to our age. Modern towns do not name their streets after
+twelfth-century prelates, "Street of Gelmúrez, 1st Archbishop of
+Compostella," makes a novel sign.
+
+Here, as all over the land, the Cathedral was the magnet. I walked along
+the dark, arcaded streets in a Scotch drizzle, passed under Cardinal
+Fonseca's college and came out in the plaza before the west entrance.
+The west front is a baroque mass which those who can endure that style
+say is most successful. I cannot endure that style. It seemed to me
+doubly a pity that this late front should mask the chief treasure of
+Galicia, the _Pórtico de la Gloria_, which stands as an open portico to
+the church, fifteen feet within this west door.
+
+Enthusiastic description had led us to expect much of what may be called
+the supreme work of Romanesque sculpture, in fact, it was this portico
+that had decided us for the long trip to Galicia. We were not
+disappointed. "_Es la oración más sublime que ha elevado al cielo el
+arte español._" Neither photograph nor words can describe it; it is one
+of those matchless works that body forth the best of an age. The model
+of South Kensington does not give its nobility, for it is the setting
+before the lofty dim Romanesque nave that makes it a unique thing. When
+later, in Constantinople, I saw Alexander's sarcophagus, the thought of
+Santiago sprang instantly to my mind. Both bring a feeling of
+sadness;--one, simple flowing Greek of the best period, the other,
+crabbed, original, mediæval,--they are alike in the absolute sincerity
+with which each embodied the highest then attainable. Over the carvings
+of both are faded traces of color that give the finishing touch of the
+exquisite.
+
+The Archbishop, Don Pedro Suárez, in 1180 gave the commission for this
+portico to a sculptor named Mateo, whether Spanish or foreign is not
+known; he lived in Santiago till 1217. He must have been a close student
+of the Bible, for his symbolism is profound and harmonious. Above the
+central arch is a solemn Christ, of heroic size, at his side the four
+Evangelists, figures of youthful beauty: the lion and the bull have
+settled themselves cozily in their patron's lap. Large angels on either
+side carry the instruments of the Passion. Very fine statues of the
+Apostles stand against the pillars of the central doorway. In the
+tympanum are small figures typifying the Holy City of Isaiah, and on its
+arch are seated, on a rounding bench, the twenty-four ancients of the
+Apocalypse, with musical instruments and vases of perfume. This is
+perhaps the most beautiful part of the portico. For hours one can study
+it. Some of the heads are thrown back in revery, some turned together in
+conversation. "The four and twenty ancients fell down before the Lamb
+having everyone of them harps and golden vials full of odours, which are
+the prayers of the saints" (St. John, Rev. V, 8). The carvings of that
+age were somewhat grotesque, but here the types are ideal, as beautiful
+in their way as Mino da Fiesole or Rossellino. When Master Mateo had
+finished his work, he made a statue of himself below the central column
+of the portico, kneeling toward the altar and humbly beating his breast;
+on this figure was written "architectus." Humility and a consummate
+profession of faith such as this went hand in hand.
+
+It is anticlimax, after the _Pórtico de la Gloria_, to speak of the
+other sights of Santiago. On the plaza before the west end of the
+Cathedral stands the dignified Hospital Real, founded by Isabella and
+Ferdinand as a pilgrim inn. Two of the four patios are quaintly carved,
+and probably amuse the convalescents of the modern hospital lodged now
+in the building. It was a joy to find so many of Isabella's good deeds
+still bearing fruit. The nuns took us down to the big kitchen,
+white-tiled and spotless, where we saw the four hundred fresh eggs that
+arrive daily from the country; the tidy patients on the verandas showed
+clearly that no one suffered privations here. As we were leaving, the
+old chaplain of the institution ran after us to beg us to return to see
+something of which he was evidently vastly proud. When he ushered us
+into a tiled bathing room and turned on the water that dashed up and
+down and round about from every kind of new contrivance, he looked at us
+with a self-complacency that was adorable, as if he said: "There, you
+water-loving English, we're just as fond of it as you!" The excellently
+managed institution reminds one that this province produced Doña
+Concepción Arenal, sociologist and political economist, and withal a
+most tender-hearted Christian, whose books on prison organization and
+reform have been widely translated, and are quoted as authorities by the
+leading criminologists of Europe. For thirty years this admirable woman
+was inspector of prisons. She died at Vigo in 1893, and Spain has since
+erected statues in her honor.
+
+In Galicia, as in Catalonia, there has been a revival of dialect
+literature. The Gallego tongue was the first in the Peninsula to reach
+literary culture, and in the Middle Ages two ideal troubadours wrote in
+it. Had not Alfonso _el Sabio_ written chiefly in Castilian, thereby
+fixing that as the leading tongue, as Dante did the Tuscan in Italy, it
+is probable that the dialect of Galicia had prevailed. Portuguese and
+Gallego were the same language up to the fifteenth century, hence it is
+that the great critic Menéndez y Pelayo always includes Portuguese
+writers in his studies of Spanish literature.
+
+Galicia is fortunate in having an able living exponent, the Señora
+Emilia Pardo Bazán, whose novels are full of the charmed melancholy of
+the province. The Gallego is derided in other parts of Spain, his name
+is synonymous with boor, for he is judged by the clumsy _mozo_ who seeks
+work in the south. "The more unfortunate a country the greater is the
+love of its sons for it. Greece, Poland, Hungary, Ireland, prove this,
+and the nostalgia is strongest in those of Celtic origin. Ask the rude
+Gallegos of South America what is their ambition--'To return to the
+_terriña_ and there die' is the answer."
+
+In a collection of essays "De mi Tierra," Madam Pardo Bazán has told of
+the learned Benedictine, Padre Feijóo, the Bacon of Spain, whose caustic
+pen did away with so many of the superstitions of his age. It may be a
+bit pedantic for me to give biographies in these slight sketches, but it
+seems as if a truer idea of the race is conveyed in such lives than
+could be given in any other way. This native of Galicia, Padre Feijóo,
+had few equals in the Europe of his time in liberality of view. He was
+born of hidalgo parents near Orense, where his _casa solar_ stands,
+still lived in by a Feijóo of to-day. He entered the Benedictine Order
+and in their cloisters passed most of his long life of eighty years, for
+half a century living in their Oviedo house. His unflagging industry,
+his clear intellect, and simple uprightness, won the admiration of all
+who knew him. "After fifteen years' intimate acquaintance with Feijóo,"
+wrote a scientist of the day, "never have I met, inside religion or out,
+a man more sincere, more candid, more declared enemy of fraud and
+deceit." Not till he was fifty did Feijóo commence to write. In 1731
+appeared the beginning of his "Teatro Crítico," essays that have been
+called the first step of Spanish journalism, written as they eminently
+were to communicate ideas to others. He had the passion to know why, a
+never-tiring love of investigation. Adopting the Baconian experimental
+method, he attacked the superstitions and pseudo-miracles around him.
+_¡Ay! de mí Inquisición_! Were you asleep that you did not clap this
+independent thinker into your capacious dungeons? So strong was Feijóo's
+influence that Benedict XIV curtailed the number of feast days on his
+mere suggestion.
+
+This learned Benedictine monk was ahead of his age in many ideas. Are
+the stars not inhabited? he asked. Before Washington, he maintained that
+the Machiavellian theory of government, intrigue and diplomacy, which
+was then universally accepted in Europe, was inferior to friendly
+loyalty and honor. He preached compassion to animals generations before
+the age of our modern, humanitarian theories. With the painful
+remembrance of the diligence ride in Galicia, I was glad to find one of
+her sons advocating this. Feijóo stands out more prominently because of
+the intellectual desert around him. "The eighteenth century was an
+erudite, negative, fatigued." The Bourbons brought formality and
+sterility to spontaneous Spain. A dry soulless learning killed the
+creative power, and in every branch, art, music, and literature, the
+artificial rococo flourished. The two exceptions of vitality were Feijóo
+and the painter Goya. Had Padre Feijóo lived in our age, he might have
+been that great man hailed by De Maistre: "Attendez que l'affinité
+naturelle de la science et de la religion les ait réunies l'une et
+l'autre dans la tête d'un homme de génie! Celui-là sera fameux et mettra
+fin au dix-huitième siècle qui dure encore." How much longer are we to
+wait for him,--this great man!
+
+If the only harrowing scene of the tour in Spain is to be associated
+with Galicia, so is one of the happiest, a day of such kindly chivalry
+that we felt the spirit of Isabella's time still endured. It was the
+chance of railway travel that introduced a modern knight to us. The
+journey back to Castile from Galicia is a most trying one. Some day
+perhaps an enterprising ocean line will put in at Vigo and run an
+express directly across country to Madrid; we were too early for such
+ease. From Santiago we had to take an afternoon train to Pontevedra, and
+there spend the night. At 5 A.M. (oh, those unforgettable, dark, cold
+railway stations of Spain!) we again took the train. It was dawn before
+Redondela was reached, and exquisite as a dream seemed the _rías_, the
+fiords of Galicia, with wooded mountains sloping to their shores. It is
+not hard to prophesy that this will be a great summer resort of the
+future.
+
+At Redondela we changed trains, getting into the express for Monforte,
+the only other occupant of the carriage being an elderly man, blue-eyed,
+very tall and erect, with the air of distinction so frequently found
+among Don Quixote's countrymen. We had noticed him the night before in
+the Pontevedra hotel, and had thought him an Englishman, till in
+offering some service about our luggage he spoke in Spanish. As we were
+to spend fifteen hours in the same railway carriage, we soon entered
+into conversation. He came from Madrid each summer with a family of sons
+and daughters to spend some months in a castle among the mountains of
+Galicia. Evidently he was a lover of sport and of country life, for as
+we ran alongside the Miño River, with Portugal just across on the
+opposite bank, for hours he sat gazing out in enjoyment, and drew each
+beautiful thing to our notice. At noon we reached Monforte, where we had
+dinner in the station buffet. When we called for our account, to our
+astonishment the waiter told us it was settled already. We could not
+understand what had been done, till the proprietor himself came to
+explain. It seems it is a custom all over this generous land, for a man
+when he is with a lady or has spoken to her, to pay for everything she
+orders; tea, luncheon, even her shopping purchases. He does this with no
+offensive ostentation, but so quietly that he often slips away unnoticed
+and unthanked. Several travelers have since told me that they too met
+this hospitality; it had at first embarrassed them, but as there was
+not the slightest impertinence nor even the personal about it, as it was
+merely an act of chivalrous respect, done with superb detachment, when
+the confusion of being paid for by a stranger was over, they remembered
+only the charming courtesy.
+
+The attentions of our kind host, for he seemed to look on two strangers
+in his land as his guests, did not stop at noontime, at tea he brought
+us platefuls of hot chestnuts. He tried to while away the hours
+pleasantly, playing games on paper in French and English; with all his
+dignified gravity the Spaniard is not blasé. Our struggles to learn his
+tongue rousing sympathy, it was from him we first heard of the pretty
+high-flown phrases still in daily use, how you bid farewell with, _Beso
+à V. la mano_ (I kiss your hand), or _A los pies de V._ (I am at your
+feet); that the _Usted_, shortened to _V._, with which you address high
+or low, is a corruption of "Your Majesty." Somehow there seems nothing
+absurd in addressing a Spanish peasant as "Your Majesty." The love of
+abbreviations is a curious trait in a people with such leisurely ways;
+thus, a row of cabalistic letters ends a letter: _S. S. S. Q. B. S. M._,
+which means that your correspondent kisses your hand--_su seguro
+servidor que besa su mano_.
+
+Then the interest which we evinced in the institutions and progress of
+Spain made him put his cultivated intelligence at our service, and we
+learned more in a day than in all the previous weeks. When I inquired
+into the vexed religious question he was able to explain much. As a
+rule, republicanism in Spain means avowed atheism and socialism; it has
+been well said that the republicanism of all Latin countries turns to
+social revolution. The socialists are a small, but well-organized band,
+international in character since their movements are directed from
+centers like Paris. They are chiefly in industrial cities such as
+Barcelona, Valencia, and Bilbao, where secret societies of anarchists
+abound, disguised as clubs for scientific study. The majority being of
+the rabble, repudiating all authority, ("civilization, that is the
+enemy!") their disorders would be called mob uprisings did they occur in
+Chicago, but deceived by the term "republicanism," the journals of
+England and America gave them too lenient a consideration. By no means
+devout himself, he assured us that what we saw on every side was for the
+most part very genuine religion, not sentiment with no result; for in
+those places where observance had slackened there was a marked
+difference in moral restraint, so potent a factor for morality was
+religion still in Spain. That there were faults none denied, but he had
+traveled enough to know the flaws of other countries too well to be
+despairing of his own.
+
+He wrote for us a card of introduction to the big hospital of Madrid; he
+sought out a friend in another carriage, the son of the Admiral in
+Ferrol, who was rather up in statistics. Had we seen the asylum near
+Santiago where the insane are treated with such success that noted cures
+had been obtained? Had we met the archæologist of the province, a canon
+in the Cathedral? In short, from the questions and suggestions we
+realized that the average tourist goes through this reserved country
+half blind. Glad were we for this chance of insight. When in the dusk of
+evening it came time to descend at Astorga, our stopping-place for the
+night, and our fellow-traveler stood there shaking hands, with warm
+friendliness in his blue eyes, we felt there was no more thoroughbred
+specimen of manhood than a Spanish hidalgo.
+
+
+
+
+SALAMANCA
+
+    "L'homme n'est produit que pour l'infini."
+    "Il y a des raisons qui passent notre raison."
+    "Se moquer de la philosophie c'est vraiment philosopher."
+
+    PASCAL.
+
+
+Salamanca is in León province, and in comparison with the hour of its
+prime, as it is to-day it too is very like a sleeping city. It is hard
+to realize that this dull, small town was a _grandeza de España_,
+ranking with Oxford, Paris, and Bologna, that once 10,000 students
+flocked here from all over Europe, and every young Spaniard turned here
+as naturally as a modern Englishman to Oxford or Cambridge; Cervantes'
+"Novelas Exemplares" give the picture. To-day there are barely a
+thousand students, chiefly from its own province; among the ten
+universities of Spain the former leader takes a very lowly place.
+Madrid, the continuation of Cardinal Ximenez' University of Alcalá, may
+be called the modern Salamanca in intellectual leadership.
+
+[Illustration: _Copyright, 1910, by Underwood & Underwood_
+
+VIEW OF SALAMANCA FROM THE ROMAN BRIDGE]
+
+In the Spanish Oxford one looks in vain for the numerous colleges of the
+city on the Isis. Alas! Salamanca is half a ruin. The French, in the
+Napoleonic invasion, destroyed the whole northwest quarter of the
+town to make fortifications, undoing in a few brutal hours the work of
+centuries of culture and piety. In his despatches of 1812 the Duke of
+Wellington wrote: "The French among other acts of violence have
+destroyed thirteen out of twenty convents and twenty out of the
+twenty-five colleges which existed in this seat of learning." Twenty out
+of twenty-five colleges! The thought of Oxford's tranquil, age-crowned
+buildings makes one grasp the tragic wreck of the Spanish university;
+never while in Salamanca could I forget the desolate tract to the west,
+lying still a heap of ruins, untenanted save by wandering goats, those
+nomad creatures that give the culminating note of squalor to deserted
+districts.
+
+Our train approached the city across the plains from Zamora, through
+plantations of isolated trees and past droves of black sheep whose
+guardian stood patiently under the rain. For some time in the distance
+we saw the prominent church towers. Salamanca lay on the old Roman road,
+the Via Lata, that connected Cadiz with the north, but the Roman
+associations here are slight. As in Zamora, the Cid and his feats dwarf
+other interests, so here it is the picturesque days of the fifteenth and
+sixteenth centuries that fill the mind.
+
+Go down to the Roman bridge over the Tormes and while away an hour
+watching the passers-by, and the old times seem to live again. Below in
+the river bed women wash and chatter from morning till night, spreading
+the gayly-colored clothes, red, yellow, and purple, over the stones to
+dry. If it is Sunday, into the city pour the hardy peasants for their
+one day of rest from the ungrateful work of the fields: girls in pale
+blue woolen stockings and smart, black pumps sit sideways behind their
+cavaliers on the long-haired nags whose backs are often shaved into a
+pattern; now out of the city jogs a brisk old woman on her donkey, laden
+with a month's purchases, an unpainted rush-bottom chair topping the
+pile; she nods to the strangers, _franceses_, she thinks, for a Spaniard
+takes all foreigners for his neighbors over the frontier: now a cart
+passes, whose shape and hue seem taken out of a romantic watercolor;
+then a young peasant in wide-brimmed sombrero, leather gaiters, silver
+buttons as big as dollars on his vest, clear-eyed and proud of carriage:
+then, salt to the picture, rides a burly _cura_, sitting well back on
+his tiny ass, a ridiculous figure were it not for his sublime
+unconsciousness, his innate self-respect. Ever the unspoiled, the
+vigorous, the untamed! Just so they came into Salamanca in the past when
+students with swords and velvet capes walked the streets, and so I hope
+they may do some hundred years from now, for such lives of frugal
+contentment are unequaled. Localism and provinciality have been forced
+on Spain by nature, and it is this very provincialism which is her charm
+for the traveler. Fresh from a prosperous, new world, he may often long
+for certain changes here, for more widely diffused education, for free
+libraries, a more secure self-government; but such material prosperity
+is bought with a price. Remember that not in the length or breadth of
+this land are to be found the degraded human beings, vicious in soul and
+brutalized in shape of skull and feature, such as exist by the thousands
+in the slums of industrial countries. If the Spanish peasant must lose
+his hardy independence, if his frugal contentment, his heroic patience
+must pass with the old order of things (that lets a heap of ruins in the
+heart of a city lie untouched during a hundred years!) I cannot help
+wondering whether the price is not too high to pay. I am repeating
+myself, but the words come to one each day--it is beyond human nature to
+be consistent in Spain; she has the faculty, despite her glaring faults,
+of battering down one's Philistine certainty of northern superiority.
+
+The bridge, the plaza, and the cathedral; study your types there and you
+begin to know the real Spaniard. Not soon shall I forget, at Mérida, in
+wild Estremadura, as I loitered on the bridge, a countryman stepping
+forward with the dignified, proud look of his class: "_¿Es más bonita
+que París?_" he asked, the interrogatory note added only in courtesy, so
+sure was he of my affirmative. Sleepy little Mérida, all a ruin, Knights
+Templars' castle as well as Roman theater and aqueduct, to the fellow
+_paisano_ of Pizarro and Cortés, was finer than Paris. It is glimpses
+like this that make the prejudiced stranger judge the so-called
+backwardness of the country in kinder fashion. Where else could one see
+stately-moving cream-colored oxen pass unnoticed through the chief
+thoroughfare of a capital, a common sight in the Puerta del Sol of
+Madrid, where else will the customs officer of a big town stand to count
+with a pointing finger the skipping sheep driven past him, as on the
+Alcántara bridge at Toledo, where else will groups of goats be milked
+from door to door in a great commercial city like Barcelona? Salamanca,
+being the center of an agricultural district and off the express route,
+presents daily, scenes from the Georgics.
+
+Architecturally the old university city, despite her disasters, is of
+first importance. She has two Cathedrals, the smaller more perfect one
+of 1100, finding shelter by the side of its huge successor, to whom it
+yielded its rights as metropolitan in 1560. The exterior of the new
+Cathedral is over-rich and meaningless, it promises little for what it
+holds within, where the lofty Gothic piers and arches have so impressive
+an air of majesty that architectural flaws are forgotten. It proves how
+much longer Gothic lasted in Spain than elsewhere in Europe. The
+triforium here is replaced by an elaborately-carved balcony that runs
+round the church, and high up are medallions colored with gold and
+Eastern hues, an enamel-like decoration which has been beautifully and
+sparingly used; the inner circle of the clearstory window and the round
+windows of the west end, have jeweled chains of color that modern
+churches could well imitate. As usual, the side chapels are full of
+treasures, and the sacristy boasts the very crucifix the Cid carried in
+battle. There is one bad defect: its apse has not the dim, mysterious
+curve of a cathedral, the east end being square, like a cold secular
+hall. Nestling under this gigantic pile is the loveliest thing in all
+Salamanca, the _catedral vieja_, its title in the old Latin proverb
+"fortis Salmantina." It is a small, Romanesque-transition church,
+unused, but in good repair, left unchanged by a sensible bishop when the
+services were removed to its more pretentious rival. The carvings of the
+capitals are boldly massive, there is a noticeably good, painted
+_retablo_, and among the numerous tombs--a Gregorovius could make a
+fascinating volume of Spain's alabaster knights and bishops!--there is
+one that is specially appealing. It is in a chapel opening off the
+cloisters; a warrior in armor lies on his sarcophagus, beside him his
+wife, with a child's innocence of face, dressed in the nun's robe worn
+while her lord was fighting the Moors, with high pattens on her feet, a
+dainty little Castilian gentlewoman, mother of the prelate whose stately
+tomb fills the center of the chapel. The old Cathedral is so tucked in
+among buildings, that only one view of the exterior can be got, from a
+terrace leading from the south door of the later church, a view that a
+New Englander will return to often with a homesick feeling, for just
+such a scaly-tiled tower, window for window, line for line alike, rises
+in Copley Square, Boston. This cupola shows Byzantine influences since
+Spanish Romanesque was orientalized through Mediterranean trading.
+
+Of all the memories of a journey in Spain the happiest are the hours
+spent in her cathedrals, the starting out expectant, often with no map
+or book, for there are frequent glimpses of the church towers to guide;
+the first entering the noble structure which man's living enthusiasm
+raised, the first passing from one chapel to another in astonishment at
+the treasures they guard. Pierre Loti has a sketch on Burgos Cathedral,
+seen once only on a late afternoon, just as the verger was closing it,
+and he describes how unhappily he was affected by the lavish material
+wealth. Pure artist that he is in his theory of seizing on a swift
+impression, the test may be successful for Philae or for the Parthenon,
+but it will not do for a Spanish cathedral, which is too complex, and
+can well hide its soul from the hasty tourist. May M. Loti forgive me
+for saying it, but certainly the way in which he saw Burgos differs
+little from the lightning-flash method of the Yankee tourist he
+despises. I think he must have had a cross indigestion that late
+afternoon, or perhaps it was his Huguenot blood rising in protest.
+Another of his countrymen, equally sensitive, "le délicat Joubert,"
+gives a less on-the-surface judgment: "The pomp and magnificence with
+which the Church is reproached are in truth the result and proof of her
+incomparable excellence. From whence, let me ask, have come this power
+of hers and these excessive riches except from the enchantment into
+which she threw all the world? She had the talent of making herself
+loved, and the talent of making men happy ... it is from thence she drew
+her power."
+
+Spain is richer than all other lands in church furniture: except for the
+uprising of 1835 against the monasteries, a movement more political than
+religious, there has been no terrible iconoclastic mania, such as in
+France and England; the cities which were looted, like Valladolid and
+Salamanca, during the French invasion, suffered in a different way.
+Then, too, Spanish cathedrals do not part with their art treasures; the
+gifts of personal and inappropriate jewels when they have accumulated
+too needlessly are sometimes sold for the benefit of the church, but the
+art treasures made for the service of the Altar are not parted with. In
+Valencia it is told that Rothschild's agent tried in vain to buy
+Benvenuto Cellini's silver pax there: $10,000 $15,000, $20,000, he
+offered: "_Las cosas de la catedral no se venden_," was the answer.
+"$50,000," said the agent. The Cathedral was poor and needed repairs.
+"It is useless," was the firm answer of the Chapter, "We do not sell the
+things of the Altar." In Salamanca the verger told us that an Englishman
+had offered an immense sum for the iron screen round the tomb of Bishop
+Anaya (his mother the dainty little lady in pattens) and though the
+screen was in an unused chapel of the _catedral vieja_, it was refused.
+These unsullied temples of the Holy Spirit, where stately ceremonials
+are still an every-day occurrence, differ in every city, the carven
+wealth of Burgos, the soaring grace of León, the solid grandeur of
+Santiago, Toledo, a dream of His House, Seville, rising imposing past
+expectation, the small, dark symmetry of Barcelona, the solemn space of
+prayer before Avila's high altar, Sigüenza's tomb-filled chapels,
+Saragossa, draped with priceless Flemish tapestries for the feast,
+Palencia dim and holy at daybreak, worship-bowed Lugo,--indelible
+memories of beauty and exaltation, the cathedrals of Spain are not mere
+artistic memorials of the past, their soul is not fled. Such churches
+cannot but have an influence on the people among whom they rise. If on
+one of different race they impress themselves with the actuality of a
+living experience, what must they mean to those whose childhood and old
+age have known them in solemn moments. I came across an autobiographical
+bit by the novelist Alacón, describing the influence on him of one of
+these great churches of the past. He grew up in the small Andalusian
+city of Gaudix, like many Spanish towns its great day being well over;
+the only grandeur left, the only palace inhabited, was the _iglesia
+mayor_: "From the Cathedral I first learned the revealing power of
+architecture, there first heard music and first grew to admire pictures;
+there also in solemn feasts, mid incense, lights, and the swell of the
+organ, I dreamed of poetry and divined a world different from what
+surrounded me. Thus faith and beauty, religion and inspiration, ambition
+and piety were born united in my soul."
+
+On the way to the Cathedrals each day we passed through the arcaded
+plaza, which at the noon and evening hours was thronged with an
+animated crowd; we noticed once more the democratic relation between the
+classes, smart officers in pale blue uniforms strolled up and down
+chatting with plain countrymen whose capes, tossed over the shoulder,
+let the gaudy red and green velvet facing be seen. The daily walk
+brought us past the House of the Shells, whose walls are studded with
+the pilgrim emblem, and one day as I paused to look into the lovely
+inner court, the owner came out, prayer-book in hand, on her way to
+church, and with the grave courtesy of her race, she invited the
+stranger in to examine her romantic dwelling. Most of the buildings in
+the city are a light brown sandstone that suits the gorgeous surface
+decoration of Isabella's period, here seen in its full glory. There is
+no pure early-Gothic in the city; Romanesque-transition is found in the
+old Cathedral, and late florid-Gothic in the new Cathedral, later still
+some baroque extravagances, since Salamanca claims a doubtful honor as
+the birthplace of that exponent of bad taste, José Churriguera. But the
+style that is supreme here is the Plateresque, the silversmith period
+when late-Gothic and Renaissance met: the façades seem as if molded in
+clay, so lavish is their work. In one respect Salamanca has been more
+fortunate than its rival Oxford, in having used a stone soft in
+appearance, but so durable that the chiseling is almost as finished
+to-day as when first cut. Everywhere in the town this Plateresque work
+is found; at times more Renaissance than Gothic, as in Espíritu Santo, a
+convent like Las Huelgas for noble ladies, or as in the beautiful patio
+of the Irish College; the Dominican church of San Esteban is more Gothic
+than Plateresque.
+
+Like the Jesuits, the second of the monastic orders whose cradle is
+Spain, may well be proud of the record in its native land. The society
+of Ignatius can boast besides its saints, scholars like Ripalda, Lainez,
+Salmerón, Isla, Suárez, Mariana, the great historian, and Hervás y
+Panduro, "the father of philology," who has been credited by Professor
+Max Müller with "one of the most brilliant discoveries in the history of
+the science of language." And the Dominicans can claim a de Soto, a
+Melchor Cano, Luis de Granada, Las Casas, defender of the Indians, and,
+fame of this special monastery of Santo Domingo, a Diego de Deza, the
+protector of Columbus. With this learned man, tutor to Isabella's only
+son, lodged the discoverer years before his memorable voyage, and it was
+in a room called De Profundis, leading from the cloisters, that he first
+explained his theories to the community who espoused his cause with
+perseverance, in opposition to the stupid savants of the University.
+They, appointed by the Queen to investigate his claims, found them
+"vain and unpractical," not worthy of serious notice. On the 400th
+anniversary of Columbus' discovery, a memorial statue was put up in the
+square near the mediæval tower of Clavero: on the pedestal are reliefs
+of his two patrons, Isabella, and Fray Diego de Deza, "_gloria de la
+orden de Santo Domingo, protector constante de Cristóbal Colón_."
+
+Imposing as is San Esteban, the triumph of the Catholic Kings' heraldic
+style of architecture is the façade of the University Library, as
+autobiographic of its age as is Santiago's _Pórtico de la Gloria_ of an
+earlier century. It is one mass of delicate carving, badges, medalions,
+and scrolls, increasing in size as it rises, so that an effect of
+uniformity is obtained. There is the true ring of that chivalrous
+generation in the inscription, "The Kings to the University, and this to
+the Kings," you raise your head proudly with a flash of the eye, feeling
+for a moment that you are almost a Spaniard yourself.
+
+[Illustration: FAÇADE OF THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY, SALAMANCA]
+
+Opposite the library's façade is a statue of one of the University's
+noted men, that attractive personality, Fray Luis de León. Tall,
+stalwart, for he came of a warrior race of Spanish grandees, ascetic,
+with intellectual forehead, a man capable of sainthood, of the type
+noble, he faces the school where he studied as a youth and passed a
+later life in research and teaching. In Luis de León is found an
+equilibrium of character, a magnanimity united with genius, which often
+distinguished the men born in the _siglo de oro_. This Augustinian monk
+was a deep theologian, ahead of his times, as most deep thinkers are; he
+made a translation of the Songs of Songs too advanced for the age, and
+his enemies accused his orthodoxy to the Inquisition. For five years he
+lived in confinement, and it was during this semi-imprisonment that he
+wrote his great mystic book, "Los Nombres de Cristo," and also some of
+his lyrics. The University remained loyal to him by refusing to place
+another lecturer in his seat; then when he had justified himself before
+the Holy Office, he was set at liberty, and a host of friends
+accompanied him back to his post. He entered the lecture hall quietly,
+after his five years of absence, and opened the discourse with rare
+tact, a generous, high-minded overlooking of personal rancour:
+"Gentlemen, as we were saying the other day." This famous mot of Luis de
+León, "_como decíamos ayer_," shows a quality unexpected in Spain, but
+characteristic often of her sons, that of amenity, a kindly tolerance of
+the world's foibles, found in Cervantes, and to show it has not died
+out, this same amenity was a predominating trait of the late
+distinguished novelist, Don Juan Valera. Luis de León, true follower of
+his patron Augustine, knew that there is no sin that one man commits
+that all men are not capable of, if not helped by God. "Even while he
+aspires, man errs."
+
+Had the erudite monk been merely a scholar, he had been a personality in
+his own day, but would not be alive for us; but he can claim an enduring
+fame. Professor Menéndez y Pelayo calls him the most exalted of Spanish
+lyric poets, and names his "Ascensión," "Al Apartamiento," "A Salinas,"
+"A Felipe Ruiz," "Alma Región Lucient," "La Noche Serena," as the six
+most beautiful of Spanish lyrics. Learn them by heart, he says, and they
+will astonish you with each repetition. Luis de León had the
+Wordsworthian note of simple living and high thinking, of a personal
+love of nature, long before the Lake School: the "Ode to Retirement"
+might have been penned at Grasmere. Everything led his soul to God; he
+fed on the mystics and rose to their height and serenity of thought.
+From his love of the classics came his sobriety of form and purity of
+phrase; he is a true Horacian, penetrated as well by the spirit of the
+great Hebrew writers, with the _espíritu cristiano_ added, yet though
+drawing his culture from many sources he is personal and modern. Such
+praise from the great critic sends one to an enthusiastic study of Fray
+Luis, and a knowledge of his poems makes the visit to his tomb in
+Salamanca more than one of mere curiosity.
+
+Like most of the cities and villages of León province, this one too lies
+asleep, resting on its former honors, though there are hints, such as
+the new hospital, that she is rousing herself to life. She feels a
+confidence in her own future, as is subtly shown in the decoration of
+the plaza, where empty spaces are left for the names of coming great
+men. It is with this city of the past that the most homelike memory of
+our tour in Spain is associated, the happy hour round an English
+tea-table eating bread and butter, and chatting at last, oh so eagerly,
+in one's native tongue. It was the rector of the Irish college who gave
+us this delightful taste of home, and fresh from six weeks of freezing,
+stone-paved rooms, of cinnamon-flavored chocolate, how we appreciated
+his hospitality! The school of young seminarians is housed in one of the
+five remaining of the University buildings, but only moved here when the
+original college, founded by Philip II and dedicated to St. Patrick, was
+demolished by Ney and Marmont's soldiery.
+
+We found our host in his library poring over a Greek book with a
+professor from the University, and we were welcomed with the
+heart-warming kindness of his native land. The professor obviously hoped
+the invading Americans would not tarry long, but he little knew that a
+Celtic host in the heart of Spain and a cozy tea-table at the critical
+hour of a raw, bleak day made a combination not to be resisted; we
+lingered into the late afternoon and left reluctantly indeed. I would
+wish for all travelers a friendly visit to the _Colegio de Nobles
+Irlandeses_, that they might see the tall, northern-looking lads pacing
+up and down the sculptured sixteenth-century courtyard, might pause in
+the Chapel, and look out from the library windows over the city, with a
+genial cicerone to name the churches and colleges; then Salamanca would
+not seem a dead city, but a peaceful, contented survival of the past.
+
+
+
+
+SEGOVIA.
+
+    "No hay un pueblo esclavo
+     Si no lo quiere ser:
+     ¡Cantad, españoles!
+     Cantad! Cantad!"
+
+    (Hymn sung May, 1908, for the centenary of _Dos de Mayo_.)
+
+
+We reached Segovia at five o'clock in the early morning of November
+first after an indescribably fatiguing day and night of travel, the one
+confusion of our tour in Spain, and partly owing to a mistake in the
+usually reliable guide book. It may be of help to other travelers if I
+describe this misadventure. On returning from Galicia, we had left the
+express route at Astorga, and pausing there a night, took the local line
+south to Zamora and Salamanca. After a stay of some days in the old
+university city, we were lured out to a small town, fifteen miles away,
+Alba de Tormes, where St. Teresa died. It seemed unnecessary to return
+to Salamanca in order to go on to Avila, since a diligence ran to Avila
+from a town not far from Alba de Tormes. Our book gave the distance of
+this ride as fourteen miles, whereas fourteen leagues, more than three
+times fourteen miles, would be nearer the truth. For, on reaching Alba
+we found it was a diligence journey of over ten hours; with the roads in
+a frightful condition after a month's rain, the trip was out of the
+question. So spending the night at Alba de Tormes, we went back to
+Salamanca, there to find it was not the special day for the train that
+connects directly with the express route south. Whereupon it seemed
+best, rather than to wait a couple of days for this train, to take the
+long trip round by Zamora and Toro to the junction Medina del Campo,
+whence the express route to Madrid branches, one line passing by Avila,
+another by Segovia.
+
+It happened to be eight minutes before the starting of the train, when I
+went to the ticket office at Salamanca with my _carnet kilométrique_,
+yet nevertheless the agent refused me the tickets, saying that his
+office closed five minutes before the starting of each train. "But there
+are yet eight minutes," I exclaimed. His personal watch said five; so we
+were obliged to start without the usual complementary tickets. We
+decided to descend at the first stop and there have our kilometrics torn
+off, but before reaching this station the conductor came to collect
+tickets, and by his face, false and mobile, we knew we were in for a
+struggle. We explained our dilemma and offered the one peseta, ninety
+centimes, which was marked in his book and our own, as the full first
+class tariff for twelve kilometers. He contemptuously refused and
+demanded eight pesetas each for that short ride of eight miles. We did
+not hesitate to refuse; whereupon when we reached the stopping station
+he tried by confused explanations to prevent the agent there from giving
+us the necessary complementary tickets. But fortunately in the hurry to
+procure them during the few minutes of our pause, I had stumbled in
+stepping from the carriage and slightly cut my hand on the pebbles. This
+roused the Spanish sense of chivalry and the agent moved aside the
+conductor and gave me what I asked. We again offered this latter the
+lawful fare for the eight miles we had ridden without tickets, and again
+he demanded eight pesetas. On reaching Zamora, he boldly brought up the
+Chief of that station, a trickster in league with him, and both demanded
+the unjust fare. A Spanish gentleman was passing, and seeing two ladies
+in trouble, stopped to ask if he could be of assistance. When we
+explained the case, he asked us to give him the lawful fare and turning
+to the station-master and the conductor, presented it to them with a
+scathing rebuke: like beaten dogs they slunk away. Several times
+gentlemen came to our aid in this way, as if it hurt their pride to have
+their race so misrepresented.
+
+It is this petty thieving among a class that should be above it, such
+as postal clerks and railway officials, that rouses the traveler's harsh
+criticisms of Spain and makes him so unjust to her. The radical cure
+lies in the men being better paid, for their salaries are such pittances
+that many of them look on extortion as their right. The tourist can do
+something toward lessening the abuse, by firmly refusing to be cheated.
+Our experience was that firmness always won the battle; if one is of a
+fiery temperament there is a scene, if one is phlegmatic, one sits
+immovable as a rock and lets the other storm. If one yields finally one
+has the scene as well as the putting of oneself in the wrong.
+
+To continue our day of ill-luck. From Zamora, we crawled along the dull,
+local line to the junction Medina del Campo, which we reached at eleven
+at night. We then changed our plans and got tickets for Segovia,
+deciding to leave Avila till later. At Medina we spent six weary hours
+in the waiting room, strolling up and down the windy platform, entering
+the buffet now and then to drink coffee, trying to rouse imaginative
+interest by thinking this was the spot where Isabella the Queen had
+died. But in vain, it was too dismal. How we abused Baedeker! And how we
+abused Spain and her railway system! Trains came and went, men muffled
+in their cloaks entered and left the dark waiting room, we the only
+impatient ones. A Spaniard accepts such things in full piety. Whoever
+heard of going faster than twenty miles an hour and what more natural
+than to wait in a station between trains half a night?
+
+At two o'clock that raw windy morning we boarded the express to Segovia
+and finding the ladies' compartment full, for we were now on the direct
+route from Paris, we had to force ourselves into the carriage with two
+furiously cross, sleepy Frenchmen.
+
+High, cold Segovia, almost 3,000 feet above the sea! A wind, _de todos
+los demonios_, was blowing that bleak first of November, and to give the
+final small touch of ill-luck, it lifted and bore away to the mysterious
+darkness outside, a treasured veil that the sun had at length toned to a
+rare tint. We stumbled into the ill-lighted station-buffet for more hot
+coffee, sending the luggage ahead to the sleeping hotel; for the
+faithful hotel-omnibus had been there waiting as usual. Strange memories
+remain of Spain's station restaurants,--the flitting waiters filling the
+bowls of coffee for the silent travelers, (no man is more silent than a
+traveling Spaniard);--frugal enduring scenes, not a touch of comfort,
+one eats to live indeed. "The French taste, the Germans devour, the
+Italians feast, the Spaniards _se alimentan_!"
+
+As the dawn was breaking we left the station and walked, buffeted by the
+gale, through the mournful streets that lead to the town, passing on the
+way the Artillery Academy, where the country's crack regiments are
+trained. As we descended to the market place below the steep hill on
+which Segovia is built, a sight greeted us that repaid a thousand fold
+for the dreary day and night of unnecessary travel, for guide-book
+blunders, personal stupidity, dishonest officials, collarless, cross
+Frenchmen and even lost automobile veils. For there, rising one hundred
+and fifty feet in noble dignity and proportion, its boulders held
+together by their own weight, without cement or clamping, stood the
+giant Roman aqueduct that Trajan left his native land, and framed by its
+arches were hills, villages, and churches, under a sky of delicate rose.
+Never was there a lovelier sunrise, fragile, shell-like, dewy.
+
+We climbed the steps that mount to the city beside the aqueduct, pausing
+again and again to look at the stupendous thing. Then we passed through
+quiet streets, with Romanesque doorways at every step (Segovia with
+Avila has the best portals in Spain) till we reached the hotel. Though,
+later, the night in Medina del Campo station revenged itself in a twenty
+hours' sleep, we were now too deeply fatigued to rest, and so soon were
+afoot again. A stone's throw brought us to the central square of
+Segovia, on one side of which is prominent the apse of the late-Gothic
+Cathedral. We pushed beyond it, here and there pausing to study some
+ancient doorway or to enter a carved courtyard, till at length the
+street ended in the big open space before the superbly set Alcázar, and
+we looked out on that memorable view.
+
+With the towering Roman aqueduct on one side of the town and this Castle
+at the other, Segovia may claim to be one of the most picturesquely set
+cities in the world. The view from the Plaza de la Reina Victoria before
+the Alcázar is one of the unforgettable sights of the Peninsula, of the
+inmost fiber of Castile. On the horizon lies one of Spain's sad,
+isolated villages. A winding road leads to it, along which plod the
+familiar carriers of the land, brothers of Sancho's patient Rucio; the
+rocky hills stretch away, dotted with ancient churches. Close to the
+city lie oases of trees and gardens such as the monastery enclosure of
+La Parral, with its noticeable stone pines. The Alcázar with its
+bartizan towers is built on a lofty crag that rises like the prow of a
+giant ship above the meeting of two bosky little streams, the Eresma
+which yielded the "trout of exceeding greatness" whereon Charles I of
+England supped in this castle, and the peaceful brook, Clamores. Thus in
+one landscape are united hardy uplands, leafy parks, a mediæval town
+with church towers and fortified castle, making a scene whose
+individuality is beyond beauty, whose profound charm never palls. Here
+one communes with the silent, inner soul of Spain, the land of Isabella,
+of Garcilaso, of Teresa, of Cervantes, not a trace of whose spirit is
+found in Madrid, but in such spots as Toledo and Avila and this.
+
+Segovia merits a prolonged stay. There were two Englishwomen in our
+hotel, who had passed months painting in the unfrequented city and found
+it a treasure house for the artist. It is full of Romanesque churches of
+the 11th and 12th centuries; so many are there that some are unused and
+falling into decay. The two best are San Martín and San Millán; the
+first, in the center of the town, surrounded by noticeable houses, has
+outside cloisters, that serve as a sunny lounging place for the people.
+From San Martín you can descend to San Millán by the steps beside the
+Plaza Isabel II. Apart from the church itself, with colossal animals
+carved on its capitols, the view from its porch is a most beautiful one,
+including the aqueduct, the Cathedral, and climbing houses, part of
+whose foundations it is plain to see are the apses of ancient churches.
+
+Segovia's Cathedral is not Romanesque like most of her churches, but
+late-Gothic, designed by the same architect who did Salamanca's new
+Cathedral, and like it, though a poor thing exteriorly, the inside is
+dignified and effective: it is more fortunate than its sister church in
+having a curved east end, not Salamanca's cold hall-like apse. The
+cloisters of Segovia belonged to the earlier Cathedral; they were taken
+down and skillfully reset here; the pillars being elliptical in shape
+like Oviedo, are not thoroughly pleasing. In a chapel opening out of the
+cloisters is the touching, small tomb of the prince whose nurse dropped
+him by accident from a window of the Alcázar, back in the 14th century;
+and a good example of the countless rare tombs of Spain is the bishop,
+with an exquisite ascetic face of chiseled marble, who lies in the
+passage leading to the cloisters.
+
+As we were in Segovia on All Saints' Day, we went to the celebration in
+the Cathedral, saw the prelate--the train of his red robe held by
+bearers--met at the church door by the canons and conducted in state to
+his throne. The vergers were very gorgeous; the leader carried a silver
+staff and wore a white wig and a white robe, his two assistants also in
+white wigs but with red velvet robes. The following day, All Souls',
+these vergers were dressed in mourning, and in the center of the
+black-draped church was placed, with true Spanish realism, a covered
+bier. On All Saints' Day there was really good music on the organ whose
+pipes flared out over aisles and choir; also an excellent sermon to
+which all listened in rapt attention, officers, peasants, and grave
+faced hidalgos standing in a characteristic group around the pulpit. The
+best way to learn Spanish and to learn more than the lip language of
+this race, is to listen to the sermons. Their eloquence is natural and
+contagious, and the peroration, delivered with _brio_, is often an
+artistic treat. Attend the sermons and frequent the early morning
+services, and you stumble on scenes of unobtrusive piety that tell you,
+despite some Spanish pessimists, that the soul of religion still lives
+in this land of the latest crusaders. As Sunday was the day we had set
+for the trip to La Granja, I went early to the Cathedral, and at Mass in
+a dark chapel of the apse, I watched long two gallant little lads of
+twelve and fourteen, smart in their artillery uniforms, swords, and
+white gloves. They went to Communion with their mother, who, like most
+Spanish women in church, was dressed in black with a draped veil, a
+fashion that lends an air of distinction to the plainest. This group of
+three remained to pray after the others had left the chapel, remained as
+a pleasure really to pray, the serious, high-browed, little faces bent
+over their books of devotion as they read the After-Communion devotions
+by the light of a tall candle placed on the floor beside them; then
+their blue eyes closed in such sweet, unconscious piety that it touched
+the heart strangely. And when, their prayers over, they left the
+Cathedral, each seized the mother's arm with a gay scamper of
+delight--she probably on a visit to them--and now for a whole day of
+vacation and enjoyment!
+
+In the same uniform as the small Communicants of Segovia Cathedral,
+other embryo artillery officers fill the city. At our hotel was a table
+where a number of the older students dined each day. They were well-bred
+lads with inborn sedateness, never boorish nor loud-voiced; noblesse
+oblige still is a reality in spite of the dissipated, smart set in
+Madrid by which we too often generalize. I shall not soon forget the
+look of pained displeasure with which they watched the over familiar
+treatment of the waiter by a foreign lady.
+
+It does not seem to me too harsh a statement to make that Spain's
+neighbor across the Pyrenees, has little of this chivalrous idealism
+among her boys. There are exceptions of course; the manly carriage of
+the _brancardiers_ of Lourdes, those bands of young men who voluntarily
+serve as bearers of the crippled and stricken, show that a remnant still
+exists of the race of the Rochejacqueleins, of the Montalemberts, of
+those who can serve, unpaid, an ideal. Frenchmen themselves will not
+maintain that such are the average. Whereas the average Spanish, like
+the average English lad, has a strong dash of the Quixote and is capable
+of disinterested enthusiasm. Proof of this radical difference is that
+first important step in manhood, marriage. In Spain there is not the
+pernicious system of dowries; as a rule it is personal attraction that
+wins a husband. French people will assure you, that though one may be
+hump-backed and villainously ill-tempered, if there is a dot one is
+married; one may be grace and intelligence incarnate, without the dot
+one goes unwedded to the grave; the shrewd, interested love of money is
+in young as well as old. Spanish young people are romantic. Midnight
+serenades and evening hours of chatting by the _reja_ are signs that
+hint marriage here is more than material settlement, love more than an
+impulse of nature; Spain's novels tell of this idealism. In many vital
+points the Spanish people are more akin to the English than to their
+Latin brothers.
+
+The Sunday morning that we took the diligence for our country excursion
+started cloudless. La Granja lies seven miles outside Segovia, on the
+Guadarrama Mountains, and is the residence of the Court for part of each
+summer. The diligence rattled down the precipitous streets of Segovia,
+passed under the towering aqueduct, "the devil's bridge" the peasantry
+call it, then mounted the swelling hills to the palace at San
+Ildefonso. It had formerly been a farm belonging to the monks of La
+Parral; Philip V turned it into an artificial French pleasure ground,
+and built a formal chateau, a Bourbon creation that is strangely out of
+place on the rugged hills. The park is well-wooded but all rural charm
+is spoiled by the neo-classic fountains, some of them like monstrous
+dreams. Before we reached the leafy avenues of San Ildefonso, the sky
+became overcast and a heavy rain began. Five minutes after leaving the
+diligence we were so drenched that it seemed as sensible to explore the
+palace grounds as to pause chilled and wet in a miserable hotel. Then
+when we found the diligence did not return to Segovia till the evening
+and that no carriage would start in the storm, in an ill moment we
+decided to walk back to the city. A wind that cut like a knife made it a
+feat beyond our strength, and some miles along that bleak way, when a
+cart passed, we abjectly begged a passage. Yet, standing patiently under
+the drenching rain, oblivous to the tearing wind, the contented young
+shepherd girls watched their flocks.
+
+If this poor imitation of Versailles has little in itself to charm the
+tourist, La Granja has been the scene of so many striking events in
+modern Spanish history that it merits a visit. It was there that Godoy,
+favorite of Charles IV's wife, signed away Spain to Napoleon, the
+criminal act that led to such glorious consequences. For then Spain, the
+country which had lain downtrodden under three centuries of misrule,
+shedding her blood in wars for her wretched kings' personal ambitions
+and giving her treasure for their extravagance, awoke suddenly to life
+when she found the king had outraged her. Two young heroes, Daoiz and
+Velarde, artillery officers, turned the cannon on the French invaders in
+Madrid, that memorable _Dos de Mayo_, 1808, and the War of Independence
+began, the starting point of regeneration, the second Cavadonga.
+
+That outburst of national vigor has never had justice done it. We know
+the Peninsula War from the English point of view, a ceaseless
+disparagement of Spain's part in it.[16] It is true that without the
+English armies the war would have dragged on in disorderly, guerrilla
+fashion, for misrule had robbed the people of skill in self-government
+and organization. But remember the glorious year 1808, whose centenary
+all Spain was celebrating during the months of our visit, was before the
+arrival of Wellington's troops. The _Dos de Mayo_, the Battle of Bailén,
+where a Spanish general with Spanish troops brought about the surrender
+of twenty thousand of Napoleon's trained soldiers, and the sieges of
+Saragossa and Gerona, unmatched in all modern history for heroism, were
+in 1808-1809. It is just to remember that when Germany, Austria, Italy,
+and Russia yielded in part to the invader, Spain stood firm against him,
+and the nation that Europe thought unnerved and debased "presented a
+fulcrum upon which a lever was rested that moved the civilized world."
+
+La Granja has witnessed later historic scenes. When Charles IV betrayed
+his people, the nation chose as their king his son, the miserable
+Ferdinand VII, who ungratefully repaid their loyalty. Poor Spain, she
+has had kings who would have wrecked a less vigorous race. At La Granja,
+in 1832, Ferdinand VII changed his will and made his infant daughter,
+Isabel II, his heir, instead of his brother, Don Carlos, whom he had
+previously acknowledged, thus leaving behind him an inheritance of civil
+war. From the days of Urraca and Isabella the Catholic, women could
+inherit the throne in Spain, just as they can in England. But in the
+18th century under the Bourbon kings, who loved all things French, the
+Salic Law was introduced and continued in force till Ferdinand VII
+changed it at La Granja. The king had a full right to revert to the
+earlier custom, as the Salic Law was an innovation in Spain, and the
+grandson of Ferdinand's daughter, Isabel II, the present young Alfonso
+XIII, is in truth the legitimate king of the Spains. Don Carlos, on
+Ferdinand's death, rose in rebellion, and for seven years a frightful,
+fraticidal struggle ravaged the country. This civil war, stamped out in
+1840, again burst into flames during the disorders of 1872. To-day,
+however, the Carlist faction claims but scattered adherents, chiefly in
+the northern provinces. The peaceful termination of these troubles has
+been solidified by that noble and truly wise woman, the present queen
+dowager, María Cristina, whose strength of character and sincerity of
+aim may be said to have safeguarded her son's inheritance during his
+long minority.
+
+Another scene took place at La Granja in the early years of Isabel II'
+reign, while her mother was regent, a far different regent from the
+later Cristina. Though the Constitutional factions had rallied round
+Isabel, as the Absolutists had gathered about Don Carlos, it was only
+through force, inch by inch, that the Spanish Crown yielded to the
+people's demand for a constitutional monarchy. Thus, at La Granja in
+1836, the queen mother was intimidated by the army into affirming again
+the Constitution of 1812.
+
+This last century in Spain has been a period of such ceaseless
+insurrection, such rapid, ill-considered changes of ministries, that it
+seems, on hasty survey, to be a hundred years of political chaos.
+Perhaps a slight sketch of the events may help to a better
+understanding, for running through the century, a thread to the
+labyrinth, is the nation's slow, stumbling, but ever forward advance to
+constitutional rule. With each disorderly, seemingly unconnected
+insurrection, a step ahead was taken, so that to-day an absolute
+monarchy is an impossibility in Spain. She may have taken longer than
+many European powers to shake off the incubus of the divine right of
+kings, but on the other hand, she has achieved her comparative
+independence without a king's execution or a terrible, bloody cataclysm.
+There has never been in Spain the bitter separation of nobles and
+people; together they both worked for their freedom, keeping a fraternal
+relationship that is uncommon in history. The Spanish temperament, like
+the English, has an intense loyalty and love of tradition; it finds its
+happiest condition under a monarchy, but the history of the 19th century
+shows it must be a constitutional monarchy; a modern king rules for the
+good of the people since he rules by will of the people.
+
+To give a hasty sketch of political progress. Godoy, Charles IV's
+unscrupulous minister, brought Napoleon's armies into Spain under the
+pretext that they were on their way to conquer Portugal. When some
+seventy thousand French troops were on Spanish soil and the people found
+their king a slave to the so-called visitors, they suddenly awoke to the
+truth, the tocsin of alarm sounded in Madrid, and from one end of the
+land to the other they took up arms. Then followed the Guerra de la
+Independenzia, 1808 to 1814, that proved to Europe Spain was alive and
+vigorous, again in the arena of the world's struggle. During the war a
+representative body met at Cadiz, thus renewing the Cortes that had
+flourished before the Hapsburg dynasty stamped it out. At Cadiz, in an
+outburst of patriotism, the Constitution of 1812 was drawn up: for the
+invader, war to the knife; Ferdinand VII to be their lawful king; abuses
+such as the Inquisition abolished; the sovereignty of the people upheld;
+"_religión y rey, patria é independencia_," truly Spanish watchwords.
+
+When in 1814 Napoleon was forced to accept Ferdinand VII as King of
+Spain, that ungrateful king came back to his loyal people, and his first
+act was to restore the absolute monarchy of his ancestors, to declare
+the Constitution of 1812 null and void, to try to galvanize the
+Inquisition into life. It was not long before the disorders of his
+government led some of the colonies in America to declare their
+independence, and finally Spain too uprose. The Riego insurrection of
+1820, proclaiming again the Constitution of 1812, was the first of the
+frequent _pronunciamientos_ (the uprising of the army against absolute
+monarchy) that continued down to 1870. Louis Philippe declared this
+insubordination of the army a menace to other thrones of Europe, and
+took this pretext to send French troops into Spain to uphold Ferdinand's
+absolutism: the Trocadero defense was during this second invasion of the
+French.
+
+Always ceaselessly agitating, despite temporary defeat, went on the
+people's struggle for a constitution. While Ferdinand VII lived there
+was little hope for modern ideas, but when he died, the
+Constitutionalists espoused the cause of his infant daughter, Isabel II.
+All advance was retarded by the Carlist War that followed Isabel's
+accession, during which war occurred what a Spanish quaker has called
+the "_pecado de sangre_," the brutal massacre of the monks and
+destruction of such unrivaled centers of art as Poblet in Catalonia,
+more a political act than a religious, as the monks were Carlists. This
+war so confused and embittered the issues at stake that it is difficult
+to follow with consistency the political parties. The government was
+consistent only in its instability, having now a Queen Regent, now an
+Espartero, banishments, executions, riots, barricades, revolts,--it
+seemed indeed as if Spain were sown with Cadmus teeth.
+
+Still through the darkness one can follow a light. The Constitution of
+1837 asserted boldly the sovereignty of the people. Though the
+Constitution of the forties was lenient to absolute power, the Cortes
+was now included in the government, a marked advance since Ferdinand
+VII's day. The Constitution of the fifties was a further advance toward
+national independence. In the midst of political rancors, the war with
+Africa, 1860, came as a noble interval when feuds were put aside and all
+fought together against a common enemy. As in the old days, poets and
+novelists enrolled themselves in the army, and the young grandees served
+as common soldiers, in fidelity to the vow of their ancestors, knights
+of Santiago, of Calatrava, and of Alcántara, that when Spain was
+threatened by the Saracen, their descendants would serve _in the ranks,
+on foot, and in person_.
+
+Then, this brilliant war over, the old strifes returned in force, Prim,
+O'Donnell,[17] and twenty minor parties. Queen Isabel II was banished
+in 1868, and the first interregnum since Spain was a monarchy occurred.
+Then followed the short-lived rule of Amadeus I, Duke of Aosta and son
+of Victor Emmanuel, called by invitation to rule in Spain. His chief
+upholder, Prim, was assassinated before Amadeus reached Madrid, and the
+new king found himself in so equivocal a position, that after two
+unhappy years he resigned gladly. Under the influence of Castelar, most
+brilliant of orators and a man who sincerely loved his country, a
+Republic of two years' duration followed. Spain was never intended for a
+republic; discontent continued general, the ministry changed eight times
+in this short period, and at length all warring factions agreed that the
+only hope for stable government lay in the restoration of Spain's lawful
+king, Isabel II's eldest son.
+
+Isabel in Paris abdicated in his favor, and in 1875 Alfonso XII returned
+to his native land. He came not in the same spirit as had Ferdinand VII
+in 1814. The sixty years of disorders had led to a solid result, Alfonso
+XII came back as a constitutional king. The Constitution of 1876 was a
+reconciliation of monarchical principles and those of a democracy. The
+new king died before he had reached the age of thirty, and his son
+Alfonso XIII, born after his father's death, was represented by his
+mother till his majority. To María Cristina of Austria, Spain owes an
+unending debt of gratitude. Under her wise rule the country had some
+years of the peace she so needed; and even what is termed disaster, the
+recent loss of colonies, is a blessing in disguise. Spain to-day needs
+all her strength for herself.
+
+As the abuses of centuries are not reformed in a year and as nothing on
+earth can be perfect, there is much to be desired still in Spain's
+political life. Her constitution is an excellent one in theory, but in
+practice it is crippled by the dishonest elections. Political power is
+left in the hands of an unscrupulous minority who work for personal, not
+national aggrandizement, and the distrust such elections have engendered
+keeps the better element of the people aloof from the government. Only
+fifteen per cent of the Spanish people vote. The king has, like
+England's ruler, the right of absolute veto. If Spain is now so blessed
+as to have for her king a worthy descendant of Isabella the Catholic,
+the remedy for the political dishonesty may be close at hand. Young
+Alfonso XIII has an intelligence of the first order; he has been trained
+under a high-minded and truly Christian woman; he has married the
+daughter of a race that well understands constitutional rule; personally
+he is loved by his people with an affection not hard to understand, for
+despite his thin, plain face, the young king is eminently distinguished
+and _simpático_. Often in Seville, seeing him galloping back from polo,
+or returning from a week's hunt in the wilds of the sierras, our intense
+hopes went out to him. In his hands, it is slight exaggeration to say,
+lies Spain's future. If Alfonso XIII gives his intelligence and
+life-blood to his people, who can foresee to what heights this strong,
+uncontaminated race may climb? The past century's outburst in literature
+and art hint the possibility of a second _siglo de oro_.
+
+La Granja has led me far afield. It does not stand for Spain's best, an
+artificial, foreign creation where passed hours of the nation's
+abasement. Segovia is the real Spain. Descend from the Alcázar to the
+river, cross the bridge, mount to the ten-sided chapel of the Knights
+Templars, and sitting on the steps of the granite cross, look back on
+the stretching city. There lies the Spain whose fiber is capable of
+regeneration: generous, patient, indomitable, faulty, but with manly
+faults, untouched by taint of luxury and greed, with blood in her veins,
+and ideals in her soul. Wander down by the Eresma past the hermitage,
+and encircle the town by the footpath beside the tree-hidden Clamores.
+High above, its yellow stones gleaming in the sunset light, rises the
+fortress which stood firm for Isabella in her critical hour, and from
+whence she started in state to claim her heritage. Will the young king
+of Spain to-day show the world that Isabella's heritage is worth the
+claiming?
+
+[Illustration: THE ALCÁZAR OF SEGOVIA]
+
+
+
+
+SAINT TERESA AND AVILA
+
+     "All great artists are mystics, for they do but body forth what
+     they have intuitively discerned: all philosophers as far as they
+     are truly original are mystics, because their greatest thoughts are
+     not the result of laborious efforts but have been apprehended by
+     the lightening flash of genius, and because their essential theme
+     is connected with the one feeling, only to be mystically
+     apprehended, the relation of the individual to the Absolute. Every
+     great religion has originated in mysticism and by mysticism it
+     lives, for mysticism is what John Wesley called 'heart religion.'
+     When this dies out of any creed, that creed inevitably falls into
+     mere formalism."
+
+     W. S. LILLY.
+
+
+Mysticism is St. Teresa's highest glory. To write of her with admiration
+and even enthusiasm, leaving untouched this acme of her genius, as
+certain of her biographers have done, is to describe the shape, the hue,
+the grace of a rose and omit to tell of its scent. On all sides her
+character was notable; in strength of will, in that most uncommon of
+qualities, common sense,[18] in vigorous administration, in sincerity of
+purpose. Carmelite nun and restorer of the strictest order of
+Carmelites, she was not in the least a withered ascetic but a well-bred
+Castilian lady of winning manners and pleasing appearance, who in
+courtesy, dignity, and simplicity, embodied in herself the best of
+Castile. From every word she wrote breathes a generous character. Her
+robust virility of mind, her complete absence of sophistry or of
+self-consciousness, help us to understand the love she roused among her
+nuns, and the respect she gained from the foremost men of her time.
+
+"We cannot stir ourselves to great things unless our thoughts are high,"
+wrote this soul of heroism. Yet, with all her supremacy of intellect,
+Teresa was so delicately witty, so gay--peals of laughter were often
+heard in her cloisters--so shrewd, that never in her was found the least
+trace of the pretentious. Anecdotes are told of her practical good
+sense. The first night of the foundation in Salamanca, in the solitary
+garret when the frightened little nun, her companion, exclaimed, "I was
+thinking, dear Mother, what would become of you, if I were to die,"
+"Pish," said Teresa, who disliked the exalté, "it will be time to think
+of that when it happens. Let us go to sleep." Then her vehement protest
+to those who thought prayer alone sufficient for salvation: "No,
+sisters, no: our Lord desires works!" Her swift sweeping aside of the
+aristocratic spirit in her convents; let there be no talk of
+precedence, "which is nothing more than to dispute whether the earth be
+good for bricks or for mortar. O my God, what an insignificant subject!"
+"I have always been friendly with learned men," she wrote, and pleasant
+milestones in her burdened life are her interviews with some remarkable
+minds of the time. "Knowledge and learning are very necessary for
+everything, alas!"--This last exclamation made in naïve apology that she
+could only translate in halting language her inner life of the spirit,
+she whose witchery of style makes her read to-day even by the scoffer.
+
+The human personality of the saint lives in her writing, where is found
+the fragrance of her own special soul. "I cannot see anyone who pleases
+me but I must instantly desire that he might give himself entirely to
+God, and I wish it so ardently that sometimes I can hardly contain
+myself." "Humility alone is that which does everything, when you
+comprehend in a flash to the depth of your being, you are a mere nothing
+and that God is all." "Oh, Lord of my soul! Oh my true Lord, how
+wonderful is Thy greatness! Yet here we live, like so many silly swains,
+imagining we have attained some knowledge of Thee; and yet it is indeed
+as nothing, for even in ourselves there are great secrets which we do
+not understand." "Do you know what it is to be truly spiritual? It is
+to be the slaves of God; those who are signed with His mark which is
+that of the Cross." And that supreme cry of the saints in all ages:
+"_¡Señor! ¡O morir ó padecer!_ My God! either to suffer or to die!"
+
+It is inevitable sacrilege for anyone in this generation, which has
+traveled so far from the days of faith, to touch on Teresa's raptures
+and locutions, for in sheer ignorance we profane what is holy. The saint
+herself foresaw our difficulty. "I know that whoever shall have arrived
+at these raptures will understand me well; but he who has had no
+experience therein, will consider what I say to be foolish.... However
+much I desire to speak clearly concerning what relates to prayer, it
+will be obscure for him who has no experience therein.... Some may say
+these things seem impossible, and that it is good not to scandalize the
+weak.... I consider it certain that whoever shall receive any harm by
+believing it possible for God in this land of exile to bestow such
+favors, stands in great need of humility; such a person keeps the gate
+shut against receiving any favors himself." So unparalleled was her life
+of ecstasy that at first the saint doubted if it were heaven sent or
+not; she submitted herself humbly to the tests of that inquisition age
+till at length her own good judgment told her that this "joy surpassing
+all the joys of the world, all its delights, all its pleasures," was
+from God, because of its after-effects, an added peace, a deeper
+humility, a more ardent and practical love of souls. But her clear brain
+and transcendent honesty made her see the risk for weaker minds: "The
+highest perfection," she warns, "does not consist in raptures nor in
+visions, nor in the gift of prophecy, but in making our will so
+conformable with the will of God that we shall receive what is bitter as
+joyfully as what is sweet and pleasant."
+
+Mysticism skirts indeed perilous precipices, but St. Teresa walked the
+narrow path securely, her eyes uplifted, oblivious of the dangers below.
+I dare not touch on her marvelous life of the spirit.[19] All I can say
+is, go to her own works, read them in their pure, native Castilian, do
+not be content with the few extreme quotations given perhaps by those
+who would discredit her; read her in various moods, as you do the
+"Imitation," and I doubt if she fails to convince you that there are
+more things in heaven and earth than are dreamed of in our negative
+philosophy, that a few rare souls have risen to supreme heights because
+they were really humble and really holy, that religion has preserved
+from total loss the subtlest faculty of man, and faith stood up bravely
+through centuries of intellectual contempt to battle for it. Recently I
+came across a review of some works on psychology by that able young
+English novelist, Robert Hugh Benson; it ended with these suggestive
+words:
+
+     "In Psychology, science and religion are very near to one another,
+     for its subject is nothing else than the soul of man. Science in
+     her winding explorations has been for centuries drawing nearer to
+     this center of the maze: she has traversed physical nature, the
+     direct work of God, and philosophy, the direct product of man....
+     Is it too much to hope that when science has advanced yet a few
+     steps more she may have come to Faith with the human soul newly
+     discovered in her hands: 'Here is a precious and holy thing that I
+     have found in man, a thing which for years I have denied or
+     questioned. Now I hand it over to the proper authority. It has
+     powers of which I know little or nothing, strange intuitions into
+     the unseen, faculties for communication which do not find their
+     adequate object in this world ... a force of habit which is
+     meaningless if it ends with time; an affinity with some element
+     that cannot rise from matter as its origin. Take it from my hands
+     for you alone understand its needs and capacities. Enliven it with
+     the atmosphere it must have for its proper development, feed it,
+     cleanse it, heal its hurts, train it to use and control its own
+     powers, and prepare it for Eternity.'"
+
+Let the reader before he opens the "Way of Perfection" know the saint's
+"Life"[20] which she wrote, by the advice of her superior, when
+forty-six years of age; it is an autobiography worthy to rank with
+Augustine's "Confessions." Read also the few hundred racy letters
+written after the press of the day while the convent slept. Chief of
+all, let the reader, if he is practical, know that inimitable book of
+her fifty-eighth year, the "Foundations," with its Cervantes-like
+pictures of the people and customs of the time. Perhaps only those who
+have traveled on Spanish country-roads, those tracts of mud or rocks,
+can appreciate the hardships endured by this aged woman as she went from
+city to city to found her houses; in heavy snows to Salamanca; to
+Seville in a covered cart turned to purgatory by the direct rays of the
+Andalusian sun, with fever and only hot water to drink; rivers
+overflowed by heavy rains; boats upset in the rivers. The last
+foundation was at Burgos, barely four months before her death, the
+jolting cart in which she rode from Palencia having to be pulled out of
+the ruts and she entered the coldest city in the Peninsula on a raw
+January day in a heavy rain, there to find further troubles.
+
+Familiar with Teresa's physical endurance, her cool-headed business
+ability, her candid hatred of shams and pretence, then approach her
+loftier self and read the "Camino de Perfección." The treatise on prayer
+in the "Life," (Chap. XI to XXII) prepares one for this second book,
+which she wrote for her sisters and daughters of "St. Joseph's" in
+Avila, "those pure and holy souls whose only care was to serve and
+praise Our Lord, so disengaged from the things of the world, solitude is
+their delight." Through the "Way of Perfection" runs her beautiful
+exposition of the Pater Noster, with digressions to right and left as
+her thoughts arose. She tells of the intangible land of worship in
+magic-laden words that draw the cold heart to the far realm of
+contemplation wherein lay the source of her strength. The "Camino" leads
+one to her last book, the "Interior Castle," a glorious pæan to God, a
+courageous exploring of the untrodden realms of the soul that is truly
+one of the triumphs of the spirit, and when we consider it was written
+by a woman of sixty-two, worn out with labors and penance, living in a
+poor little convent, it is an incredible feat of genius. In all
+literature is found nothing loftier nor more ethereal: "Oh, 'tis not
+Spanish but 'tis Heaven she speaks!"
+
+Teresa belonged to the race of the true mystics because she was a great
+saint. It has been said that sainthood, the divine hunger of the soul to
+do or to suffer _pro causa Dei_ is as difficult to define to the
+imagination as genius. The materialist may scoff at it, but it remains a
+primitive part of human nature against which argument beats itself in
+vain. Its form may change with the times, the Eastern anchorite and the
+mediæval ascetic may give way to the administrative bishop needed in his
+age; to a knightly paladin such as that "Raleigh among the Saints" who
+led his Free Lances to the fight for the salvation of souls; to a
+large-hearted philanthropist like Vincent de Paul, with his unresting
+Sisters of Charity; to a scholar of the schools, a Newman; to the
+reformer in our ugly modern cities; under varying vestures the spirit is
+the same. In the compelling power of her saints lies the force of the
+Church; to the saints of the Catholic Reformation, to Philip Neri,
+Charles Borromeo, Francis Borgia, Francis de Sales, Francis Xavier,
+Ignatius Loyola, the Church owes her rehabilitation. These great souls
+rose in every land to purify abuses, to drive the money changers from
+the temple: they were the leaven in the hundred measures of meal.
+Macaulay noted the fact that since the middle of the sixteenth century
+Protestantism has not gained one inch of ground, and this is due to
+these saints of the Catholic Reformation; for deep in man's heart lies a
+reverence for simple goodness that overrides all disputes, and when such
+saints arose in the church that was called a sink of iniquity, men
+paused; those who had passed from her ranks did not return, but none
+after followed them. Had Luther been gifted with more of this personal
+sainthood, the fatal division that bequeathed centuries of hate and
+warfare might have been avoided, and the simpler method of example, of
+holiness of life, have sufficed for reforming Renaissance Rome
+intoxicated with the revival of pagan culture. Such regrets are futile,
+a mere weighing the weight of the fire, a measuring the blast of the
+wind; and they are ungrateful, too, since the spirit of that troubled
+time roused among other great souls, a Teresa de Cepeda y Ahumada.
+
+The writings of this remarkable woman have the same allurements for us
+to-day as when they flowed almost unconsciously from her pen, for
+besides her mysticism and her sainthood, she was a poet, of the race of
+those whose thoughts make rich the blood of the world. Her little nuns
+tell that when she wrote her hand moved so rapidly, it seemed hardly
+possible it could form human words, while in her face was an expression
+of exaltation. "She ranks as a miracle of genius, as perhaps the
+greatest woman who ever handled pen, the single one of all her sex who
+stands beside the world's most perfect masters," is the testimony of the
+ablest English critic of Spanish literature. She wrote with her eye
+direct on her soul's experience, with the glorious courage to give the
+naked truth regardless of consequences, and she will be read as long as
+sincerity of soul-expression is the poet's best gift and while the
+conflict of faith and unbelief remains the highest of human themes.
+
+Mystic, saint, and poet, she can claim yet another title, that of
+philosopher. By the road of self-study, she reached that sublime height
+of metaphysics, the intellectual vision of the Absolute. The further
+Psychology advances, the more wonderful is found her knowledge of the
+soul and its moods and powers. "The highest, most generous philosophy
+that ever man imagined," wrote the scholar, Luis de León. "Sainte Térèse
+a exploré plus à fond que tout autre les régions inconnues de l'âme, ...
+elle explique savamment, clairement, le mécanisme de l'âme évoluant dès
+que Dieu la touche ... une sainte qui a vérifié sur elle-même les phases
+sur-naturelles qu'elle a décrites, une femme dont la lucidité fut plus
+qu'humaine" is the appreciation of Huysmans. Not only orthodox believers
+yield her this preëminence: Leibnitz read and deeply admired her; a
+recent French critic of the skeptic school compares her to Descartes.
+Hyperbole is inevitable in speaking of this "sweet incendiary," and all
+who know her books feel the same enthusiasm. "A woman for angelical
+height of speculation, for masculine courage of performance, more than a
+woman," wrote the old English poet, Richard Crashaw, whose "Flaming
+Heart" is touched with her own potency:
+
+    "Oh thou undaunted daughter of desires!
+     By all thy dower of lights and fires;
+     By all the eagle in thee, all the dove;
+     And by thy lives and deaths of love,
+     By thy large draughts of intellectual day;
+     And by thy thirsts of love more large than they;...
+
+     By all the Heav'n thou hast in Him,
+     (Fair sister of the seraphim!)
+     By all of Him we have in thee;
+     Leave nothing of myself in me,
+     Let me so read thy life that I
+     Unto all life of mine may die."
+
+Spain may claim the glory of having appreciated this her greatest
+daughter. She is a colonel of artillery; she is a doctor in Salamanca;
+the manuscript of her "Life" was placed in the Escorial and the King
+carried the key; at country inns they tell of the night she rested
+there, as if it had been yesterday; her devotees to-day sign their
+letters "_su amigo teresiano_." It was reserved for later generations of
+different race to explain what they could not understand by calling it
+hysteria and epilepsy. Richard Ford's account of the saint is so wide of
+the original that Froude, no lover of Catholic Spain, says it is not
+even a caricature; the article on her in the Encyclopedia Brittanica is
+a disgrace to intellectual thought.
+
+Spain stands indifferent to such criticism. She knows herself secure in
+her mystics who seem to have left the race an intuitive understanding of
+the life of the soul. This inherited intuition has, of course, its
+dangers, for all intelligences are not those of a Teresa de Jesús. It
+needs indeed "large draughts of intellectual day" to be a mystic.
+Valdés' novel, "Marta y María" shows this mistaken insisting in the
+nineteenth century on conditions of life suitable to the sixteenth. But
+because smaller minds have imitated her disastrously, their
+neo-mysticism need not be considered a serious menace in modern Spain,
+since following a saint, even haltingly, is not by any means an easy
+life to choose.
+
+St. Teresa and Avila: her name evokes that of her native city as
+instantly as St. Francis' that of Assisi; every stone in Avila breathes
+of the heroic woman. Our first visit was to the small plaza under the
+city walls, where the _casa solar_ of the Cepeda family stood. Teresa
+came of the untitled gentry of Castile, _de sangre muy limpia_, and a
+Spaniard's pride in his blood, untouched by Moorish taint, by crime, or
+illegitimacy, is as strong to-day as then: perhaps it is this pride, in
+peasant as well as noble, that makes the democratic relation of the
+classes in the Peninsula.
+
+At right angles to the mediocre church built in commemoration, on the
+site of the Cepeda house, stands the mansion of the Duque de la Roca,
+which gives a good idea of the solid escutcheoned homes of the hidalgo.
+Many such dignified houses are scattered over Avila, making a stroll in
+her streets full of the charm of surprise; their chief adornments are
+the doorways, truly splendid old portals with coping stones sometimes
+nine feet deep radiating round the entrance. In one of these solid
+Romanesque houses Teresa was born in 1515. Through a city gate before
+her house, I looked out on just the same scene she had known during the
+first eighteen years of her life; the rocky plain, through which the
+river wound, stretched to a spur of the Guadarrama mountains, capped
+already with the winter's snow. Leaving the venerable little plaza, I
+descended the steep street that led to the river bridge, in the spirit
+of pilgrimage still, for the child Teresa and a small brother wandered
+here alone one day on their way to seek martyrdom among the infidels.
+Met by an uncle beyond the bridge, the runaways were brought home. Truly
+in the saint's life, the child was father to the man, her days bound
+each to each in natural piety, despite that short period which her too
+tender conscience ever regretted when, as a pretty girl, love of fine
+clothes and flattery allured her. It is told of these remarkable
+children, that, hearing the word "Forever," they clasped their little
+hands and gazed wide-eyed in each other's faces, overcome by its
+stupendous meaning.
+
+[Illustration: HOUSE OF THE DUQUE DE LA ROCA, AVILA]
+
+When Teresa was eighteen she went to visit a married sister who lived at
+a distance, and on her return stopped to see an uncle who had just taken
+the resolution of entering a monastery. The religious feeling in her
+partly awoke, and she too desired the life of the cloister, but her
+parents not finding strength to part with her, one morning she and a
+brother slipped away from home, and after he had conducted her to the
+Carmelite Convent of the Incarnation outside the walls, he went on
+himself to beg admittance at the Dominican Convent of St. Thomas. For
+over twenty-five years Teresa lived in the _Encarnación_: during the
+first twenty years she was miserable in bodily health and as miserable
+in spirit, for the saint had not yet found her vocation, and the laxity
+of the rule allowed the nuns to see much of the world, to receive
+visitors and hear the gossip of the town. "I was tossed about in a
+wretched condition, for if I had small content in the world, in God I
+had no pleasure. At prayer time I watched for the clock to strike the
+end of the hour." Strange words for this future great genius of prayer!
+Her conversion, the change of heart that sooner or later, disregarded or
+welcomed, comes to all who live with any depth, came to Teresa as she
+was approaching her fortieth year. She had been roused to more serious
+thoughts by her father's death, and one day in the oratory she suddenly
+seemed to realize in a figure of her crucified Saviour the unspeakable
+wonder of his sacrifice:
+
+    "Thy hands to give Thou can'st not lift.
+     Yet will Thy hand still giving be,
+     It gives, but O, itself's the gift,
+     It gives tho' bound, tho' bound 'tis free."
+
+    "Love touch't her heart, and lo! it beats
+     High, and burns with such brave heats
+     Such thirst to die, as dares drink up
+     A thousand cold deaths in one cup."
+
+With the inflowing of true religion, Teresa longed for a stricter life,
+for the original rule of Mount Carmel as conferred by Innocent IV in
+1248. She was misunderstood by those around her, her locutions and
+visions doubted; as a natural result of the false _beata_ of that day,
+she was considered a woman who for the sake of notoriety pretended to
+sainthood. Only after years of semi-persecution did the ring of truth
+and the ethical fervor of Teresa's words convince the learned men who
+examined her, and she was allowed to leave the _Encarnación_ to found
+the convent of St. Joseph, her first house of the barefoot or
+_descalzos_ Carmelites.
+
+Associated so closely as is the _Encarnación_ with the saint, it is with
+emotion one looks down from the city on the pleasant oasis it makes in
+the rocky plain. Teresa had there the memorable interviews with St.
+Francis Borgia, just returned from a visit to his friend and former
+lord, Charles V at Yuste; with the mystic poet, St. John of the Cross
+(whom Coventry Patmore has followed in his "Unknown Eros"); with St.
+Peter of Alcántara, who too held that "the cornerstone and chief
+foundation of all is humility." These devout men confirmed Teresa in her
+belief in the divine origin of her prayer: "There is no pleasure or
+comfort which can be equal to meeting with another person to whom God
+has given some beginnings of the same dispositions," she wrote,
+harrassed by the petty suspicions around her.
+
+A tenderer association than the _Encarnación_ is that of _San José_, her
+first foundation. The convent lies outside the Puerta del Alcázar, Gate
+of the Castle, past the plaza where the townspeople stroll under the
+arcades, and peasant women sell fragrant celery from the big
+saddle-baskets they lift from their donkeys' backs to the pavement. The
+visitor is shown treasured relics by the nuns, the quaint musical
+instrument their mother played on, her drinking jug, and wooden pillow,
+a letter in her strong, clear hand-writing. During the later strenuous
+years of her life the saint ever looked back lovingly here. "I lived for
+five years in the monastery of St. Joseph at Avila, and those now seem
+to me to be the most peaceful part of my life, the want of which repose
+my soul often feels." From the age of fifty-two to her death at
+sixty-six (1582) this wonderful woman traveled over Spain, founding her
+reformed order, sixteen convents for women and fourteen monasteries for
+men. While on a visit of inspection at Alba de Tormes the end came; with
+her favorite words of the Psalmist, "A contrite and humbled heart, O
+God, Thou wilt not despise," she passed, as she had written in her "Way
+of Perfection," "not to a strange country, but to her native land."
+
+Avila is worthy of her saint, Avila of the Knights, Avila the Loyal, the
+King's Avila. It is one of the most perfect examples existing of the
+fortified towns of chivalry. Built on an eminence, it is completely
+encircled by grand old walls, forty feet high, whose sameness is broken
+by some eighty-six towers; two of these here and there are placed close
+together and arched, so as to make a gateway. Below the town on every
+side stretches a plain, so strewn with shattered rocks that it is easy
+to picture it the scene of some battle of giants. The Cathedral may be
+called part of the city ramparts, since its apse forms one of the eighty
+encircling towers; the walls are so thick that the radiating chapels
+round the chancel are not seen in the exterior view, being quite lost in
+the depth of stone and mortar. Our inn, the _Fonda Ingles_, looked out
+on the square before the Cathedral, a windy spot, where the gusts from
+the mountains seized and tossed the men's long capes. Like Burgos and
+Salamanca, Avila is on the truncated mountain of central Spain, and one
+is reminded of its 3,500 feet of altitude by the bitter cold. Nothing
+can pierce so sharply as the wind of the Castile plains. Each day we
+crossed the gusty plaza to the church and so grew to know it with the
+heart-affection Spanish cathedrals win. The large windows have been
+walled up to darken the interior, for Spain, the hardy, the
+all-enduring, ignores the frosts of eight months of the year to provide
+against the summer heats. The details of Avila Cathedral are truly
+lovely; a double-aisled ambulatory round the warm space of the High
+Altar, a _retablo_ of ancient pictures, isolated marble shrines between
+chancel and choir near which kneel groups of black-veiled worshipers,
+gleaming brass _rejas_, a carved _coro_ where the canons chant and where
+are massive illuminated hymnals on the lectern, all make up one's ideal
+of a house of God. Do not miss the sacristy, one's ideal too of what a
+sacristy should be, with antique silver wrought by the De Arfe family,
+with painted and gilded cabinets, and alabaster altars cut like ivory.
+
+St. Teresa's city is small: one can encircle its walls several times in
+a constitutional, yet every walk discovers new treasures. We were
+constantly stumbling on yet other of the imposing portals that exist in
+their perfection only here and at Segovia, and in the sleepy squares or
+courtyards we found some of the roughly-hewn stone animals, the
+primitive god of Druid days, used later by the Romans as milestones.
+From these comes another title for Avila, _Cantos y Santos_. An easy
+afternoon walk can be taken to Son Soles, a hermitage on the lower slope
+of the mountains, whither the saint must have gone in the summer
+evenings when the sunset glorified the plain and hills, for the customs
+of Avila to-day are those of Avila in the sixteenth century. A path led
+us across the aromatic fields, and country men in wide-brimmed velvet
+hats gazed at us with clear, fearless eyes, grave yet courteous, like
+true Castilians. In the meadows we met a gentleman of the town pacing
+slowly, book in hand; one would have time in the home of the mystic for
+such fruitful hours of pause, such sessions of sweet silent thought. On
+the way to Son Soles, just on the outskirts of the town, stands Santo
+Tomás, the Dominican monastery that long supplied missionaries to the
+Philippines. Before the High Altar is a white marble mausoleum of
+Isabella's period, worthy to rank with that of her parents at
+Miraflores,--the truly touching tomb of her only son. He lies with calm
+upturned face, a crown on his thick locks, his gauntlets thrown beside
+him. The royal prince was educated with ten young nobles in a former
+palace near this church. Generous, handsome, a scholar and musician,
+with the fair future stretching before him of the first king to rule the
+_Españas_ rich and united, he died suddenly at Salamanca in 1497,
+turning all the conquests, all the discoveries of his parents' reign to
+dust and ashes. The Queen bowed her head in submission, saying "The Lord
+giveth and the Lord taketh away, Blessed be his name": but it is told
+that she often came to sit in her special stall of the raised choir
+here, to gaze with broken heart on the white tomb of her son. Had he
+lived would Spain's evil day have been averted? One can almost believe
+so; for tyrannic government came in with the Austrian, who ruled here
+because of Don Juan's death. Charles V, Isabella's grandson, was not a
+Spaniard; he could little understand the system of individual city
+rights that prevailed in the country he came to govern. Spain can boast
+she was one of the earliest of European nations to teach the municipal
+doctrine that the state has freedom if the town is free. We too
+completely forget that it was nearly a century before the celebrated
+Leicester Parliament that Burgos in 1169 had popular representation.
+When the Austrian arrived, with his autocratic idea that all power
+should be concentrated, the Castilian cities rose in the Comuneros
+rebellion, but they were ruthlessly put down and for three hundred years
+the land's vigor and wealth were exploited for the benefit of one
+family. I am sure that as she sat pondering in the choir stall of Santo
+Tomás Isabella foresaw what a tragic loss to her cherished land was the
+death of her only son. Avila can link the names of Isabella la Católica
+and Teresa de Jesús, the two most incomparable women in whom the sex has
+culminated, both born on the bleak invigorating steppes of Castile, in
+the same province, within the same hundred years, both making an
+indelible impression on their race, both leaving a deathless heritage of
+aspiration and onspurring pride. Is there any wonder that a people who
+can claim two such heroines look at one with fearless eyes?
+
+Avila is rich in tombs. There is a second lovely one in Santo Tomás,
+that of Prince John's attendants, and down by the river bridge, the
+picturesque chapel of San Segundo holds a most beautiful work by Spain's
+best sculptor, Berruguete. The kneeling bishop has so gentle an
+expression that it is hard to believe he could hurl a Moslem chief from
+the city walls above this hermitage. In the Cathedral, behind the High
+Altar, is another Berruguete tomb, Bishop Tostado, whose industry has
+passed into a proverb; he is here represented with speaking, alert
+expression, leaning forward, this tireless pen suspended in his hand.
+
+The tomb of St. Teresa is not found in her native city, for she was
+buried where she died, at Alba de Tormes, some miles from Salamanca. Not
+long after her death Avila stole the saint's body--strange to our modern
+notions are those old disputes over relics--but through the influence of
+the Duke of Alva it was restored to his town.
+
+Admiration for St. Teresa tempted me to Alba de Tormes, but to those who
+would go thither I must say, resist the temptation. Unfortunately, the
+spirit of religiosity, which is to religion what sentimentality is to
+sentiment, has taken possession of her burial place. If you do go to
+Alba, however, make it a day's excursion from Salamanca. The evening
+was over before we reached the town, and we drove in darkness from the
+station, bumping over the ruts of an awful road. Railway and villages
+seem often at enmity in Spain; though we had passed directly by the
+gleaming lights of Alba, we ran on some miles further before stopping in
+its station, hence the necessity of a drive of several kilometers back
+to the town. The inn was most primitive, being merely the poor house of
+a country woman, our waiter at table her ten-year old son dressed in
+corduroys. A friendly pig met us in the front hall, coming out from the
+kitchen to look at the unaccustomed foreigners; nevertheless, the house
+was clean and the landlady got out fragrant linen for the bedrooms. On
+our admiring a picture of their great patroness, the kindly woman, after
+dusting it, presented it with the customary polite phrase of "this your
+picture," which was no mere formality, since the next morning when she
+found it secretly restored to its former place, she rushed out to thrust
+it again on us as we were stepping into the diligence. This generous
+landlady, our grave little garçon, the night watchman the _sereno_,
+calling the hours, a daybreak view from the plaza of the vivid green
+meadows along the river, these are the pleasant reminiscences of Alba.
+Opposite the inn stood the church where the saint is buried, but
+willingly would I blot out its memory. An excitable monk was our guide.
+He turned on the electric light with a spectacular air, as if that, not
+the great relic, was the boast of the church; he showed the saint's
+silver tomb, her heart hung round with votive gifts, archbishop's rings
+and diamond coronets, then he led us to the revolving door of the
+convent, whence personal mementoes were passed us for inspection.
+Lowering the lights, he bade us look through a grating at the back of
+the church, and suddenly the electricity was turned on in an interior
+room, and there on the cot lay the image of a Carmelite nun asleep. The
+whole thing was in the worst possible taste, on a level with the bad
+Churrigueresque architecture of the same period. A spot worthy of silent
+pilgrimage, where one of God's greatest saints breathed her last prayer,
+"Cor contritum et humiliatum, Deus, non despicies," this solemn cell of
+her death-bed has been turned to a vulgar show. How Teresa's intelligent
+simplicity would sweep aside such ill-judged honors! In silent protest
+at the tawdriness surrounding them, lie the patrons of this Alba
+foundation, Don Francisco Velasquez and his wife Doña Teresa,
+distinguished, superb effigies in stone, _hidalgo como el Rey_. Doña
+Teresa, in the delightful way of Spanish ladies on tombs, is reading
+tranquilly in her book of devotions.
+
+With this example before us of the pass to which religious extravagance
+can be carried, it may be time to touch on a tendency in Spain that is a
+distress to the northern Catholic who is less childlike in his inward
+life. Of course, since there is every kind of temperament, there must be
+every kind of taste; perhaps I am too much guided by personal likes or
+dislikes. However, I feel that those who crave the appropriate and
+simple will agree with me that making allowance for an emotional people,
+a coquettish shepherdess under a glass case on a church altar, (such as
+I saw in Cadiz,) is misunderstood religion. One of Spain's wisest sons,
+the philosopher Vives, agitated against the dressing of statues, and the
+Council of Trent later prohibited the bad usage. Why is not their advice
+followed? I do not mean to criticise the little country shrines whose
+inartistic decoration is often most heart-moving; in a remote village
+certain things are touching which elsewhere are displeasing. It should
+be the effort of the Spanish clergy to discourage the extreme devotion
+to special altars and statues. Artificial and roccoco in sentiment and
+expression, it is a menace to religion in the Peninsula. Spain has the
+vital Christian faith, she is unspoiled by the tinsel, beneath the
+symbol is a soul; but, if she insists on clinging to what the modern
+mind finds ugly and insincere, she may lose many to whom the inner
+religion of a St. Teresa would appeal. People seldom will see both sides
+justly; to rid themselves of an irritating detail, some will throw away
+the whole. There are not a few whose antipathy to religion has been
+caused by this blind clinging to the non-essential: the novelist Pérez
+Galdós, I should say was such a case. Though his stories prove that he
+has never grasped what interior religion means, has never gone to the
+fountain head and drank of the pure, mystic waters, but has tasted only
+the contaminated streams of the valley, yet it cannot be denied that
+some of the religiosity he depicts is a phase that exists only too
+truly. The evil is the result of ignorance, not of malice. For this
+reason it would die a natural death were the Spanish clergy given a
+wholly rounded education. I do not refer here to the learned canons or
+monastic orders, but to the parochial clergy. Spain watches her neighbor
+France too closely, let her look further afield and she will lose her
+fear that education and skepticism go hand in hand; in England and
+America the priesthood is with the advancing tide, not against it:
+knowledge never yet harmed religion, but ignorance cripples her. Science
+should have no silly terrors for priests whose church is the greatest
+proof of evolution through the ages, advancing relentlessly so that
+what is worth retaining of man's increasing knowledge finds its
+inevitable place in her body, but advancing slowly, (impatient abuse
+cannot hurry her magnificent conservatism); a complete organism, a
+living entity ever changing, yet ever the same.[21] We can hardly expect
+the clergy of a land where tradition is a sacred thing, to be in the
+vanguard of modern thought, but they at least should not forget their
+own noted men of learning. Ximenez, Luis de León, Feijóo, Isla, Suárez,
+Balmes,--the names come crowding--all of them churchmen, who, the more
+they knew, the deeper grew their faith.
+
+After this vexatious visit to Alba de Tormes, it was with trepidation
+that I came to Avila, there to find Teresa's vigorous, truly-spiritual
+personality the living presence of the proud, high-minded little
+Castilian city. And a happy coincidence the night of our arrival gave
+proof that her generous enthusiasm, her unresting love of souls, were
+not things of the past. Having spent the day at the Escorial, at ten in
+the evening we took the express to Avila. In the carriage _Reservado
+para Señoras_, we found ourselves with three religious of the
+Sacred-Heart; a touch of home for me were their familiar fluted caps,
+buttoned capes, and silver crosses. The few hours of the journey fled
+all too swiftly in delightful talk; like nuns the world over, they were
+gay and happy as children, with the serene youth of the convent life in
+their faces. One of them was so distinguished a woman that it was a
+fascination to look at her.
+
+These fragile nuns were to travel through the cold night--and a raw
+November gale was blowing over the uplands of Castile--to take a steamer
+at Bordeaux, for they were pioneers, on their way to found a house in a
+distant part of South America, where education was backward. Three weeks
+of winter sea, then some tropical days on horseback, before they reached
+their desolate new home! Truly the heroic spirit of St. Teresa is alive
+to-day, and fair sisters of the seraphim still walk among us.
+
+
+
+
+EVENING IN AVILA
+
+
+    Around about the town stand eighty gray stone towers,
+    That make a fitter crown, a hardier show than flowers
+    For what is high and brave--the tawny Castile plain--
+    So patient and so grave, incarnate soul of Spain.
+
+    You have made sweet the ways of penury and care
+    With dawn and sunset praise and white still hours of prayer,
+    Old town of mystic saint! Secure you ask: Does peace,
+    Or restless seeking plaint come with your wealth's increase?
+
+    An answering sound of bells across the upland goes,
+    To each field-toiler tells a message of repose,
+    And mounting to the sky's slow-darkening, tranquil dome
+    The heart-calm echoes rise of peasants lingering home.
+
+
+
+
+MADRID AND THE ESCORIAL
+
+    "They who wrought wonders by the Nile of old,
+     Bequeathing their immortal part to us,
+     Cast their own spirit first into the mould,
+     And were themselves the rock they fashioned thus."
+
+    GEORGE SANTAYANA.
+
+
+These two spots, products of men of small idea and nature, are happily
+so close together that they can fall under the same abuse. Coming from
+the north, to stop at the Escorial either from Avila with its grand
+walls of the eighty towers, or from the crag-set castle of Segovia, is
+such an abrupt transition from heroic times to the doctrinaire centuries
+that followed them that it is but too easy to be unfair to Philip II's
+huge pile. A better way is to go out to it from Madrid; then, somewhat
+accustomed to cold commonplace, the Escorial gives less of a jar.
+
+We descended to it from Segovia. Knowing Herrera's lifeless
+architecture--"a syllogism in stone" it has wittily been called--on that
+side I did not expect much, but accounts of the setting of the Escorial,
+of its grand solitary position in the mountains, made me hope for some
+kind of effect. People see things in such different ways. I could
+discover no grandeur whatever in the position of the rectangular
+ashy-colored building. The lower slopes of the Guadarramas rise behind
+it, but at a little distance, and the town comes between it and the
+sierras. It was not solitary, it was not imposing. At close range, after
+we had walked up the leafy avenue from the station, even the appearance
+of unity was lost, and it seemed nothing but a big block of good town
+houses like many that fill the square between four city streets. Window
+after window, alike inadequately small and unadorned; just like any
+monotonous line of town houses. We stood aghast at the pretentious,
+ineffectual mass which they call the eighth wonder of Spain. For us
+to-day there is little wonder in spending fifty millions in one lifetime
+to put up myriads of doors, stair-cases, and courtyards, to use two
+thousand pounds of iron to make the door-keys; we are accustomed to the
+feat. The pity is that every tourist in Spain comes here, and one in a
+thousand goes to Poblet or León, those other pantheons that are proper
+burial places for sturdy old kings. I am not sure that the Hapsburgs in
+Spain merit anything worthier than an Escorial.
+
+At first we thought it might be the side which we approached that gave
+so poor an effect, so we proceeded to encircle the building; on all
+four sides passing by window after window we saw not one inch of stone
+carved worthily, and to our astonishment we found it faced the
+mountains. Fancy a blank, rocky wall, a quarter of a mile away and fancy
+such a stupidity as choosing this to open on, instead of the wide
+horizon of the opposite side. Does this not give the key to the
+Escorial? It and its builder had no imagination. Since we were here we
+had to see it all, so we let ourselves be guided hither and thither,
+through courtyard after courtyard, down one dull corridor after another,
+in and out of rooms where little interested,--a dreary waste of a place.
+In the picture gallery overlooking the gardens we got our first
+introduction to that eccentric genius, El Greco, at his worst here, with
+sick color and elongated figures; we thought him quite mad.
+Nevertheless, the picture gallery was a respite; it was good to meet
+again Tintoret's rich visions of Venice, the full superb shoulders of
+his women, the gold brown of the robes. Ranged in cases there were also
+some embroidered vestments that were noticeable.
+
+The church of the Escorial is so coldly formal and pretentious that it
+lay like a load on our spirits. There is something frightening in the
+way man unconsciously expresses his own nature in the material work of
+his hand; he may think himself very big, unless he really is he is
+certain to betray himself, if he paints or writes or builds. This
+correct, somber church exactly represents the religious ideal of a
+Philip II. Heaven, so close to one under the soul-feeding Romanesque
+vault of Santiago, in Seville or Toledo's Gothic aspiration, is very far
+away under this limited dome; the propriety here is that of a bigot, who
+would see heresy in the soar of Gothic, and backwardness in the bare
+solemnity of Romanesque.
+
+We were shown the usual tourist-sights, the seat in the choir where
+Philip sat when news was brought of the Battle of Lepanto, which broke
+another inroad of the Mohammedan on Europe; also the life-size marble
+crucifix (spoiled by too long an upper lip) which Benvenuto Cellini
+made, and which was carried on men's backs from Barcelona to Madrid.
+Statues of Philip and his father, with the ladies of their households,
+kneel on either side of the altar, rich bronze-gilt work, but hardly in
+character with a church. Then we descended to that acme of dreariness
+and morbid misanthropy, the sunken chamber where are buried the royal
+family of Spain since Charles V; one somber coffin rose above another in
+the dark place. And art can make death so beautiful, art like the tombs
+at Miraflores and Avila! Happy beings to have escaped this dreadful hole
+of burial, we exclaimed. Could only a century separate Isabella in her
+Castle of Segovia, or in the white marble peace of her sepulcher at
+Granada, from her descendants' costly ideal of a palace and a mausoleum?
+As we stood shivering with the formality and melancholy of it all, with
+sympathy for the present happy young King and Queen who must lie here
+some day, a little touch of sentiment took away some of the oppression.
+We saw on the tomb of Alfonso XII a fresh wreath of chrysanthemums.
+Then, feeling that any more subterranean darkness was insupportable, we
+hurried up the steep staircase from the Pantheon, through the
+heavy-bound church, and out in the courtyard--dreary enough,
+too!--breathed the fresh air with relief.
+
+In the library of the Escorial was the first place where I had seen the
+gilt edges of books, not their leather backs, presented to the reader, a
+rich, strange effect which later in the Seraglio at Stamboul I noticed
+again. We stopped long to examine the portraits that stand between the
+book-cases. Philip II was pale-eyed, anæmic and white-visaged, with
+drooping, hypochondrical corners to his mouth. And I had pictured him
+scowling and black and forceful! The Escorial should have told me that
+not a forceful personality could have built it but rather a stubborn
+ability and dogged patience, a narrow consistency, all in character with
+his pale eyes. The swift degeneration of the Hapsburg line is easily to
+be read in these portraits. Charles V (in Spain Charles I), keen of face
+and energetic, has a great-great-grandson, Charles II, last of the line,
+so rickety and idiotic that no caricature of used-up royal blood could
+go further.
+
+Weary of sight-seeing where so little roused the imagination, we
+descended to the gardens, stiffly restrained too, but pleasant to loiter
+in. So close was the monotonous mass of gray stone above us, one did not
+have to look at it, but could gaze out on the wide view toward Madrid.
+Then at sunset we went back to the church for an evening service, that
+hour of prayer, restful and beautiful all over Spain. The Pater Noster
+was recited, a litany was chanted, a meditation was read slowly with
+pauses while the people listened with bowed heads and closed eyes. Then
+followed the primitive, centuries-old Latin hymns, the glory of the
+church, in which is incorporated for all time the piercing piety of the
+Middle Ages. I too closed my eyes to shut out the formal church, and for
+some forgetful moments I could dream that those quavering voices of old
+and young, so simple, so sincere, were in some unspoiled mountain
+village, perhaps in that most soul-satisfying temple of all the world,
+the Lower Church of St. Francis:--Assisi and the Escorial,--the human
+mind is capable of wide deviations, from the religion of humble love to
+this haughty contortion of it.
+
+The most fatal effect of the Escorial was to fix the capital in Madrid,
+a spot, as Ford observed, that had been passed over in contempt by
+Iberian, Roman, Goth, and Moor. Up to the building of the Escorial the
+choice of a capital had wavered, at times, in Valladolid, in Toledo, or
+in Seville. Philip's mountain palace caused to be the chief city one of
+the worst situated towns in Spain, on a waterless river, with no
+commercial prospects, roasting in summer, swept by icy winds the rest of
+the year. It too, like the Escorial, lacks all soul for the traveler.
+Not a church worth looking at, all of them seventeenth and eighteenth
+century abominations with fat cupids, prancing angels, and posing,
+self-glorifying saints, not a cathedral in the capital of a country
+which has the largest number and most heart-satisfying cathedrals of the
+world.
+
+I daresay if one lived in Madrid and had a full active or social life
+one might like it; there must be some cause for the proverb "From Madrid
+to heaven, and in heaven a peep-hole to look down on Madrid." As a city
+it can never be anything but second-rate; the new residential part near
+the parks is like the good districts of any average town. The famous
+Puerta del Sol is filled at every hour of the day and night with such a
+rabble of loafers and vociferating peddlers that it takes courage to
+push one's way through. As the Court was absent we missed seeing the
+brilliant morning hour of guard mounting before the Royal Palace.
+Occasionally some local sight would remind us we still were in Spain,
+the original and untamed. Ladies in mantillas would pass on their way to
+the late Mass at midday, a brougham drawn by handsome mules would go by,
+or, if it were a holiday, a few girls of the people wore embroidered
+shawls. But taken as a whole, for the sightseer Madrid is just a
+weariness of the spirit.
+
+Except, of course, the pictures, and I must add, the Armory. We hurried
+off to the Prado, up the steps past the bust of the vigorous saturnine
+Goya, along the far-stretching hall, with hardly a glance for the white
+monks of Zubaran, or El Greco's strange canvases, till midway, we turned
+to the left into the large hall that holds the Velasquez masterpieces.
+It is a sensation in one's life, this first meeting with Velasquez at
+the height of his powers. The wonderful Doria Pope in Rome, the few
+pictures in London and Vienna whet the appetite for the supreme feast in
+Madrid. It is an unprecedented collection of one master that no glow of
+enthusiasm can exaggerate. Canvas follows canvas, all the work of
+secure, triumphant genius, with brush handling so free that it seems
+impossible he painted more than two hundred years ago. Don Carlos stands
+dangling a glove in an absolutely natural moment of nonchalance, Philip
+IV and the pompous Duke of Olivares ride their proud steeds out of
+magnificent skies, the gallant little Don Baltasar Carlos dashes at us
+on his pot-bellied pony, or stands a baby hunter in the Guadarramas.
+Velasquez painted him later, a grave, dignified lad of about fourteen,
+always with a fearless, straight look, and he also painted his piquant
+Bourbon mother, Philip IV's first wife; his second a wooden-faced
+Austrian, mother of the doll-like, big-skirted infantas. Had Don
+Baltasar Carlos lived, surely the race had not ended in a Charles II.
+
+You walk about the Velasquez room bewildered, sorry for the copyists who
+have set up their easels before work that tells so unflinchingly each
+slip of a talent what it is to be a master. Portraits and genre studies;
+the lovely bent neck of the weaving girl, the breathing livingness of
+the Maids of Honor, the displeasing dwarfs,--each canvas is an achieved
+success.
+
+At the end of the hall hangs what swiftly became my favorite of all
+pictures seen, the "Surrender of Breda," called "Las Lanzas," from the
+soldiers' spears ranged against the sky. It is a canvas about the size
+of the "Night Watch" in Amsterdam. The two armies fill the background
+under a sky that is a glorious harmony of cold blue and rose. In the
+foreground the Fleming, Justin of Nassau, advances to surrender the keys
+of Breda to its conqueror, the Marquis Spínola, general of the Spanish
+forces, though by birth a Genoese. Spínola has dismounted, and bends to
+meet his enemy, vanquished now, hence in his knightly creed, his friend.
+With a subtle, delicate shrinking he has placed his hand on his
+opponent's shoulder, and in his face is an expression of such high
+chivalry, of such generous effacement of self, of all that is best in
+man of courtesy and noble-mindedness, that the tears spring to the eyes.
+You return to it again and again and come away refreshed and ennobled.
+Only a man loyal himself to the core could render such an emotion, only
+a technical genius of the first rank could fix so fleeting an instant;
+this truly is thinking in paint, and it places Velasquez side by side
+with Leonardo da Vinci as a master of the intellect. I think it is very
+pleasant to learn that Velasquez knew the General he has immortalized,
+and you feel he must have known, too, the superb Spanish hidalgos who
+stand in the group behind the Marquis. On his first trip to Italy, the
+painter sailed in the same vessel to Genoa with Spínola, and probably
+sketched him then. I like to imagine the meeting of two such spirits of
+chivalry.
+
+[Illustration: ISABELLA OF PORTUGAL, BY TITIAN. PRADO GALLERY, MADRID]
+
+Were the Prado only Velasquez and the Spanish artists, it would be
+among the first of galleries, but it is astonishingly rich in Italian
+masters as well. It has the best equestrian portrait in the world,
+Charles V at the Battle of Mühlberg, a picture to be studied long and
+often. The Emperor has risen from illness, he has had to be lifted upon
+his horse, but he has pluckily girded himself to take command. The
+Venetian red of his plumes and scarf is splendid. Titian has another of
+the Emperor, standing with his Irish hound, near it a gem of woman
+portraiture, Charles' lovely wife, Isabella of Portugal. It seems a
+strange irony for such an exquisite creature to have been the mother of
+a Philip II. Philip was fortunate in his daughters, too, demure, formal
+little maidens, who stand with the sedate propriety of Spanish infantas,
+and in his sisters, whose long, aristocratic faces Antonio Moro has left
+us. Charles V sent Moro to England to paint Queen Mary for her young
+bridegroom, and here she sits in her rich crimson leather chair, erect
+and stiff and insignificant, her auburn hair and homely face not one to
+charm her future husband still in his twenties, she not far from the
+fatal forty. A deeply pathetic portrait this. Good woman she was
+personally, despite having been made the scape-goat for a system, yet
+one can read in the pinched shrewdness of her mouth that she lacked her
+grandmother's height of brain, nor was she capable of her mother's
+dignity of sorrow, whose grand insulted womanhood Shakespeare has
+rendered so magnificently.[22] There are many other notable portraits in
+the Prado; a stately matron and her three sons by Parmigianino; a rich
+pigment of color, Rembrandt's wife; Raphael's Cardinal,--the acute,
+keen, Italian face so different from the Spanish type; a striking Count
+de Berg by Van Dyke. Mantegna has a small canvas, the "Tránsito de la
+Virgen," with the apostles gathered round the couch, a graphic glimpse
+through the window behind of Mantua. Mantegna put thought into his work,
+and he compels thought from others; this "Tránsito" drew me to it in the
+same browsing study as that small triptych in the Uffizi.
+
+Then upstairs are more Italians. The facile Veronese has here, curiously
+enough, a really impressive scene, Christ and the Centurion. There are
+many Rubens, and some peaceful Claude Lorraine sunsets and sunrises,
+offering the needed siesta of quiet in a full collection. And downstairs
+in the basement are the primitives, Van Eyck, Van der Weyden, Memling,
+mystical enough to refresh the soul of a Huysmans. The gilded
+backgrounds of these celestial annunciations, these interiors of so
+intense and breathless a reverence, have always seemed to me a pure
+symbol of the uncomplicated perfection of their faith, the unquestioning
+mental background of the age.
+
+After Velasquez it is not easy to feel much enthusiasm for the other
+Spanish painters. Murillo can only be really known in Seville, in whose
+gallery he predominates as does Velasquez here. It is a coincidence that
+both of Spain's first painters should have been born in the same
+Andalusian city, within twenty years of each other, and that the ashes
+of both should have been scattered to the wind in the French invasion.
+Zurbaran's white-robed monks,--he painted Carthusians as Murillo did
+Franciscans, and Roelas the Jesuits,--are always effective, but they
+miss being taken seriously by a dash of pose in them. As for Ribera's
+martyrdoms, (his portraits are very fine,) if chance led us into his
+room, one glance and we fled; it is not pleasant to see people
+disemboweled. The same shuddering horror you feel before some of Goya's,
+as for instance that awful but tremendously moving blood-red _Dos de
+Mayo_. Goya is almost too crabbedly individual to be liked unreservedly.
+He is in a way the Hogarth of the South, with a gruesome, fantastic
+imagination, quite pitiless to the vices or follies of his generation;
+witness the portrait of the Infanta María Josefa, or the appalling group
+surrounding Charles IV, "a grocer's family who have won the big lottery
+prize," Gautier cleverly said of it. At times you think Goya had no
+elevation of soul, then you come on a portrait that shows he could see
+something besides the weakness of human nature. He was a true Aragonese,
+stubborn, energetic, analytic. And it should never be forgotten that he
+painted in that desert of art, the eighteenth century, and swept aside
+the weak methods of generations to return to Velasquez's vigor of
+technique.
+
+No visitor in Madrid can possibly miss the Prado gallery, but it is not
+difficult to omit the Armory; for, discouraged by going to see sights
+not worth the effort, you may think the _Armería_ just the usual dull
+collection found in capitals, of interest only to the specialist. No
+greater mistake could be made. This Madrid museum is like nothing of its
+kind in Europe, it is an unrivaled show, one hour there and you learn
+volumes of Spanish history.
+
+It consists of a large hall, down whose center is massed a splendid
+array of horsemen, caparisoned in historic armor. The manikins have been
+fitted out thoroughly. Their gauntleted hands hold the polished spears,
+and ostrich plumes wave from their helmets; they give an astonishing
+effect of life. Among the thirty-odd suits worn by Charles V, here is
+the identical one Titian painted in the equestrian portrait, decked with
+the similar doge-red scarf and plumes. There is the gallant little
+Baltasar Carlos' suit of mail; the armor of that Bayard of Spain,
+Garcilaso de la Vega; of the hero of Lepanto, Don John of Austria, and
+some of the banners and ship-prows of his victory; the suit of Charles'
+general, the Marquis of Pescara, Vittoria Colonna's husband; the tent of
+Francis I at the battle of Pavia; the arms of Juan de Padilla, who led
+the uprising of the independent cities against Charles. History is
+followed from earliest times in raw gold Visigothic crowns, the sword of
+Pelayo at Cavadonga, the sword of the great slayer of Moors, King
+Ferdinand _el Santo_ of Castile, and the winged-dragon helmet of as
+mighty a battle leader, King Jaime _el Conquistador_ of Aragon, down to
+the last stage of the seven hundred years' crusade, in Isabella's armor;
+that of the Gran Capitán; Boabdil's engraved with Moorish letters; and,
+finally, the surrendered keys of Granada. Spain's majestic hour lives
+again here.
+
+As we left the Armoury, a present-day scene presented itself and it
+struck me as very characteristic of a country where the grandee,
+shopkeeper, and peasant live side by side in friendliness. Before us lay
+the big courtyard of the Royal Palace, the King's very doorstep as it
+were, and it overflowed with hundreds of children, nursemaids, families,
+and soldiers; the crowd being chiefly of a popular character. They tell
+of strict Spanish etiquette, but it appears to me as if the people here
+get nearer to their king than elsewhere. Rough boys and men were pouring
+into the Armoury to wander with pride among the plumed knights, and by
+their glance they showed they felt themselves part of the stirring past.
+Each knew himself a _cristiano viejo_[23] whose forebears had struck a
+blow for the _Reconquista_.
+
+
+
+
+TOLEDO
+
+    "But changeless and complete
+     Rise unperturbed and vast
+     Above our din and heat
+     The turrets of the Past,
+     Mute as that city asleep
+     Lulled with enchantments deep
+     Far in Arabian dreamland built where all things last."
+
+    WILLIAM WATSON
+
+
+Toledo has been compared to Durham, but it is the similarity between a
+splendid lean old leopard and a beautiful domestic cat. The largest
+river of Spain, the Tagus, without a touch of England's lovely verdure
+to soften it, sweeps impetuously round the Spanish ecclesiastic city,
+through a wild gorge from which it derives its name (_tajo_, cut) and
+above the river-cliffs rise sun-whitened houses, innumerable
+monasteries, and church towers, in a compact, imposing mass. Across the
+river is a barren wilderness, solitary as if never trod by foot of man,
+and this, close to an historic city. Stern and a bit fanatic,--for she
+has lived for generations, with sword in hand to guard her
+altars,--Toledo represents ascetic, exalted Castile as completely as
+palm-crowned Seville, stretching out in the meadows by the winding
+Guadalquivir sums up the ease-loving character of Andalusia. The thought
+of the Moor is never long absent in the fertile southern province, but
+here, though for a time he ruled as conqueror, every stone of the city
+tells of crusading Christian ideals.
+
+Most travelers run down to Toledo from Madrid for merely a day, whereas
+it is eminently a spot for a pause of several days. Not only once but a
+second and a third time should you cross the Alcántara bridge and climb
+the silent hills beyond it. From there Toledo stands up in haunting
+majesty, one of the imperial things in the world. Wild footpaths lead
+along the hills, so you can follow the immense loop of the river and
+return to the city by St. Martin's bridge.
+
+The desolate Tagus is as unchanged by the centuries as the hills
+confining it. Toledo's first mayor, the Cid, looked on much the same
+scene that we know, nor could it have been very different when, earlier,
+the last of the Gothic kings, Roderick, saw the fair Florinda bathing by
+St. Martin's bridge,--which untimely spying the legend says brought the
+African invasion on Spain; the same as when King Wamba ruled here, and
+his name is synonymous with "as old as the hills"; the same as when the
+city's patron, Leocadia, was hurled down from the cliffs in Dacian's
+persecution.
+
+Once inside the Puerta del Sol (a real gateway, not a plaza where a gate
+once stood, like its Madrid namesake), we found ourselves in a fretwork
+of narrow streets where we got lost at every turning. These twisting
+passages were so built that if the city walls were captured, the people
+could still offer a stiff resistance. Zig-zag up and down the lanes go,
+every few yards coming to a small triangle, out of which lead three
+narrow ways,--which to choose is ever the bewildering question. Push on
+boldly, the tortuous streets are worth exploring at random, and if you
+wander long enough you are sure to find yourself before the Cathedral or
+in the famous Zocodover Square. Morning and afternoon we were out
+exploring, with a good map to guide us, yet up to the very last day, we
+lost the way half a dozen times. The constant uncertainty was
+fascinating; only in such unhurried rambles does the _genius loci_
+reveal itself. Now we stumbled on San Cristo de la Luz, in whose
+diminutive chamber are Visigothic capitals, Moorish arches, and a
+Christian _retablo_; it was here Alfonso VI heard his first Mass in the
+conquered city, the Cid Campeador at his side. Now we stopped to see the
+empty church of El Tránsito, in the Mudéjar style, built originally as
+a synagogue, and we found there an astonishingly beautiful arabesque
+frieze. This Mudéjar style (Moorish and Christian architecture mixed)
+has here what I think is its most perfect example, Santa María la
+Blanca, also a former synagogue, then a church, and at present national
+property.
+
+As usual, our first visit after arrival, was to the Cathedral, not so
+easy to find as in most places, since it is not set on the highest part
+of the city, and is shut in with cluttering houses. As usual, too, like
+most Spanish churches, the exterior is meaningless; but the interior is
+a vigorous, pure Gothic, which is called the most national expression of
+this style in Spain. Like Seville, the ground plan is a _sala_, or hall;
+though the aisles here lessen in height so rapidly that they give a far
+different effect from Seville's lofty nave. The double-aisled ambulatory
+as at Avila is unique and beautiful in its effect. Spanish Gothic may be
+less artistically faultless than that of France, but certainly its
+massive grandeur and even its very extravagance render it many times
+more picturesque.
+
+The primate of Spanish cathedrals is the richest in tombs, paintings,
+_rejas_, carvings, vestments, and jewels, even after the French carried
+away some hundred weight of silver treasure. Unfortunately, it was here
+we began to feel like tourists and to experience the jaded weariness of
+the personally conducted. We had wandered freely over the churches of
+the north, for a slight fee the verger had unlocked the choir and
+separate chapels, and then had gone off to let us examine them
+undisturbed. Here the flocking tourist has brought about the pest of
+tickets for each separate part of the church, and the guide, when one
+pauses to loiter, impatiently rattles his keys. And one longs to loiter
+in the most perfect _coro_ of Spain, where Maestro Rodrigo, and
+Berruguete, and Vignani carved; in the _sala capitular_, or the Alvaro
+de Luna chapel of florid Gothic, where the beheaded Grand-Constable lies
+guarded by four stone knights of Santiago.
+
+Since Spanish cathedrals were gradual growths, here is to be found, in a
+mass of violent sculpture called the _Transparente_, the bad taste of
+the eighteenth century. The bishop who erected the _Transparente_ lies
+buried near by, covered by a mammoth slab of brass, on which, in bold
+letters, you read, "Here lies dust, ashes, nothing," an epitaph whose
+ironic, fatigued simplicity does not ring true; very different from that
+genuinely humble epitaph in Worcester Cathedral, that one impressive
+word "Miserrimus." _Transparente_ and tombstone are subtly allied, not
+inappropriate memorials of one who was instrumental in bringing the
+academic Bourbons to the Spanish throne in 1700.
+
+In the sacristy is a beautiful picture, the _Expolio_, "Stripping Our
+Lord before the Crucifixion," by El Greco, the strange Byzantine Greek
+who drifted to Toledo and in his forty years there because more Spanish
+than the Spaniards. In his case the accident of birth was nothing;
+though born in Crete of Greek parents, refugees from Constantinople, El
+Greco was a true Castilian soul. He had known Venice in the days of
+Tintoret and Titian, but it was only when he came to Toledo that he
+found the atmosphere, mystic and chivalrous, in which his genius could
+develop. His was the spiritualized mysticism of a Teresa or a John of
+the Cross, with little of the conventional piety of Murillo. And he has
+rendered the Spanish hidalgo as has none other, on his canvas "they live
+an inner life, indifferent to the world; sad with the nostalgia for a
+higher existence, their melancholy eyes look at you with memories of a
+fairer past age that will not return. They are the dignified images of
+the last warrior ascetics."[24]
+
+There is no denying that some of El Greco's pictures are aberrations;
+when I first saw him in the Escorial gallery, I thought him eccentric to
+madness. Thanks to Professor Raphael Domenech of the Prado School of
+Art, I looked a second time and learned to appreciate him. "What he did
+ill, no one did worse, but what he did well, no one did better." Toledo
+has many of his masterpieces. In the Church of Santo Domingo is his
+"Ascension" and the two Saint Johns; in Santo Tomé, his splendid "Burial
+of Count Orgaz." The chapel of San José and the churches of San Vicente
+and San Nicolás have some good examples of his, and the Provincial
+Museum has a remarkable series of the apostles with a truly noble
+representation of their Master. El Greco--by the way, his real name was
+Domenikos Theotokopoulos--lived with princely magnificence, his
+friendship sought by the cultivated society round him, and on his death
+he was buried in San Bartolomé, regretted by the whole city. His
+sumptuous way of life was continued by his son, who built the cupola
+that covers the Mozarabic Chapel of the Cathedral.
+
+This brings us to perhaps the most interesting survival of the past that
+exists in Spain, the Mozarabic Mass, said every morning in the western
+end of Toledo Cathedral. Mozarabic means Mixt-Arab, and is the name
+applied to the Christians who were under Moorish rule. Living isolated
+from their fellow-believers they kept to the old Gothic ritual. In the
+eleventh century the Christian conqueror of Toledo, Alfonso VI, after
+an artless trial by fire of the rival books, introduced the Gregorian
+liturgy, used by the rest of Europe. The learned Archbishop of Toledo,
+Cardinal Ximenez, thought the Gothic ritual too interesting a national
+memorial to be lost, so he endowed a chapel with its own chapter of
+canons.
+
+The morning after our arrival, I hastened down to the Cathedral to hear
+a Mozarabic Mass. It puzzles me how Ford, the traveler, could have
+written of it as he did, as if its simplicity put to shame the later
+rite, for a Catholic could to-day attend the Mozarabic service with no
+striking feeling of difference. In some respects it is simpler than the
+Gregorian Mass, in others more elaborate; thus, for instance, the Host
+is divided into nine parts, to represent the Incarnation, Epiphany,
+Nativity, Circumcision, Passion, Death, Redemption, Ascension, and
+Eternal Kingdom. The kiss of peace is given before the Consecration; the
+Credo is recited after the offertory.
+
+In my eagerness to be in time, I arrived half an hour too early, so I
+whiled away the minutes watching the altar boys prepare for the
+ceremony. It was easy to read, in their air of proprietorship that their
+duties were an achieved ambition, the reward of good conduct. One of
+the lads climbed up on the big brass eagle of the lectern and gave it an
+affectionate polish; then, having partly illuminated the altar,--during
+the ceremony more candles were lighted,--they whipped out their smart
+red cassocks, and stood side by side in severe precision, to salute the
+eight canons, "_Buenos Días!_" altar boys and dignitaries bowed with
+leisurely Spanish courtesy. In their preparations the small acolytes had
+found the supply of altar wine somewhat short, so more was sent for.
+During the solemn moments of the Mass, a messenger arrived with an
+offensive flask. With rustling dignity in his trailing red gown, the
+majordomo of ten swept across the chapel to thrust out the tactless
+blunderer, and the look of apologetic confusion on his cherub face, as
+he returned to his post of honor, was adorable.
+
+Some German tourists noisily came into the chapel, and refusing to kneel
+at the moment of the elevation, the verger, in a spirit the founder
+would have applauded, pointed with his silver wand, a silent but
+inflexible dismissal. This first morning of my visit, too, a group of
+hardy countrymen came to the Mozarabic Mass; with cap in hand and cloak
+flung toga-like over their muscular shoulders, they knelt on one knee,
+as instinctively graceful as the shepherds in Murillo's "Nativity." When
+the service was over, in respectful quiet despite their arrogant
+carriage, these unlettered men rose and passed out to loiter in the
+Cathedral for a half hour. "The rank is but the guinea's stamp, the
+man's the gold for a' that," rings often in the ear in Castile.
+
+Cardinal Ximenez, founder of the Chapel, was Castilian to the core, and
+Toledo for him, just as for El Greco, was fittest home. He was born in
+1436 in the province of Madrid of an old family that had fallen in his
+day on moderate circumstances. In Spain, Ximenez is often called
+Cisneros, for there two surnames are used; the first following the
+Christian name is the patronymic name of the father, the second that of
+the mother. Sometimes a man uses his paternal surname alone, more seldom
+his mother's family name alone, as in the case of Velasquez, whose
+father was a de Silva.
+
+A studious disposition early destined Ximenez to the priesthood, and
+following a few years' study in Alcalá, which he was to raise to a
+world-known university, he went to Salamanca. After a long stay in Rome,
+on his return to Spain he wasted some precious years in an unfortunate
+ecclesiastic dispute. His true worth was not discovered till he went,
+when over forty, to serve in the Cathedral of Sigüenza, where Cardinal
+Mendoza, the future "Rex Tertius," was then bishop. Recognizing the new
+chaplain's remarkable powers, he made him his vicar-general. But
+Ximenez, in the face of every chance of rapid advancement in the Church,
+felt within him a longing for the retired life of prayer. He chose the
+strictest order of his day, and entered the Franciscan monastery of San
+Juan de los Reyes at Toledo. All who know Toledo will remember it, built
+in the bizarre, flamboyant, often overladen but always grandiose style
+of Isabella and Ferdinand. On its outer walls hang iron chains, the
+votive offerings of Christian captives ransomed from the Moors in
+Africa, and one cannot help thinking that the concentrated mind of the
+new novice received an indelible impression from these souvenirs of
+Moslem barbarity, a bias that found later expression in his stern
+treatment of the Moors of Granada and his crusading siege of Oran.
+
+Ximenez had sought a life of prayer in San Juan de los Reyes, but a
+personality such as his could not help but rise in acknowledged
+supremacy above those around him. The fame of his intellect and holiness
+soon drew to his confessional the leading minds of Toledo, and he found
+himself, to his distress, again in touch with the world. He retired to a
+more isolated Franciscan monastery, and gave himself up to years of
+study and prayer. Men seemed then to find time for the long spaces of
+tranquil thought that solidify character; holding the highest posts that
+ambition could achieve, they seemed to know themselves as dust before
+the wind. The key-note of to-day is breadth not intensity, and it
+sometimes seems as if our scattered knowledge leads to a more
+superficial outlook on the elemental and eternal verities, that
+universal education tends to universal mediocrity. Why have so few
+to-day the old-time spaciousness of vision? Is it because education then
+meant the development of the soul as well as of the intellect, because
+in acknowledging that there are an infinite number of things beyond
+reason they attained what Pascal calls the highest point of reason?
+"Ever learning and never attaining to the knowledge of the truth" we
+seem indeed. Wholly-rounded opportunities were given in that age. Poets
+and novelists then were soldiers in the roving wars of Europe,[25]--Garcilaso,
+Cervantes, Lope de Vega, Calderón, these last two priests as well, and
+Garcilaso making a holy end helped by a grandee who was a saint, and
+Cervantes dying in the habit of the Assisian. But I suppose this carping
+comparison is just the never-ending tendency to look on a previous day
+as better than one's own. Jorge Manrique felt the same way:
+
+      "á nuestro parecer
+    Cualquiera tiempo pasado
+    Fué mejor"
+
+and he wrote his immortal "Coplas" in the golden age of Isabella
+herself.
+
+To return to Ximenez. After a long period of retirement he was made,
+against his will, confessor to the Queen at Valladolid. There exists an
+account by a witness of the sensation his thin, ascetic face caused in
+the court, as if an early Syrian anchorite had wandered thither. Three
+years later, on the death of Mendoza, the Queen's influence in Rome had
+Ximenez named his successor in Toledo. So angry was her confessor that
+he left the court. Isabella, gallant woman of heart and brain, who so
+enthusiastically perceived greatness in others, appealed to the Pope to
+order Cisneros to accept his see.
+
+Up to this the Archbishops of Toledo had been men of great lineage who
+lived with splendor. And a striking succession of master minds they
+make, lying ready for an historian to group in a remarkable record;
+scholars, statesmen, founders of hospitals and schools, now a prelate of
+saintly life, now a leader of armies like Archbishop Rodrigo, who having
+borne the standard of the Cross in the thick of the fight at Las Navas
+de Tolosa, chanted the Te Deum of victory on that memorable field, the
+first Christian foothold in Andalusia. Of all the primates of Toledo,
+Mendoza, "Tertius Rex," had been highest in rank and power. The monk who
+succeeded this prince of the church dropped all pomp and lived like a
+humble Franciscan. Again the undaunted Isabella appealed to her friend
+the Pope to advise the new Archbishop to keep up the dignity of his see
+before the people. Cisneros yielded outwardly, but under the veneer of
+display he led the ascetic life.
+
+The Queen's insight into character had judged right. Mystic contemplator
+though he was, Ximenez was a born ruler: prudent, courageous, and firm.
+He straightened difficulties and reformed abuses. As his own moral
+character was stainless and his disinterestedness well proven, there was
+happily no inconsistency in his preaching. Gomez tells that the moral
+tone of society, lay and ecclesiastic, was so improved by the energetic
+bishop that "men seemed to have been born again."
+
+As to Ximenez' much criticised attitude toward the Moors, it was at one
+with its age. To reproach him with it is as unreasonable as to condemn
+Marcus Aurelius for having persecuted the Christians, or George
+Washington for having silently accepted negro slavery. A man, no matter
+how great his character, is limited somewhere by the standards of his
+period. The fifteenth century was far from being radical in the
+privileges it extended to free opinion. Even some generations later we
+find, in the Palatinate, when the Elector Frederick III turned from
+Lutheranism to Calvinism, in 1563, he forced all his subjects under pain
+of banishment, to turn with him. Within a few years his son changed them
+back to Lutheranism, only to have them, under the next ruler,
+constrained with severe punishments to again accept the Heidelberg
+catechism. The religious history of most of the states of Europe prove
+that the same theory was held: "cujus regio, ejus religio." Ximenez can
+plead more excuse for his attitude since in Spain was the problem of the
+more radical difference of Christianity and Islam. He felt, and the
+constant later revolts somewhat justified the idea, that a newly
+conquered people is not likely to remain loyal, when they are bound
+together against their ruler in an antagonistic creed. So he went to
+Granada in 1499 to labor for the conversion of the people.
+
+At first he used much the same methods that prevail to-day in some of
+our cities, what we may call the soup-kitchen missionary system to
+evangelize the emigrant. Ximenez instructed the Mohammedan in doctrine,
+and he also gave presents to impress the oriental mind. So effectively
+did the method work that immense numbers of citizens embraced the faith.
+On one day four thousand were baptized. So far the treaty of the
+Conquest was not violated, since the conversions were voluntary. When,
+however, there was a revolt of those Moors who were angered by seeing
+the rapid spread of Christianity, harsher methods than persuasion were
+resorted to. The letter of the treaty was kept but its spirit, that
+reflected Isabella's magnanimous tolerance, was stretched indeed. The
+first uprising turned to open rebellion, and when this was put down, the
+majority of the citizens let themselves be baptized to avoid exile and
+confiscation. Though the two great prelates, the gentle Talavera and the
+indomitable Ximenez, burning with zeal, went about the city catechising
+and instructing the poorest, there were many thousands of Mohammedans
+who hated the religion to which outwardly they conformed. A child to-day
+can understand the futility of such conversions. No one denies that
+Ximenez was stern. He who loved learning with the passionate devotion of
+a Bede or an Erasmus, (we all know the remark of Francis I when confined
+at Alcalá, "one Spanish monk has done what it would take a line of kings
+in France to accomplish"), this same humanist scholar burned in public
+bonfire the Moslem books, only reserving the medical ones for Alcalá:
+surely this is proof of his grim sincerity.
+
+When Isabella died, Ximenez took Ferdinand's side against his
+impertinent Austrian son-in-law. Philip I did not live long enough to
+involve Spain in an internecine war, her curse for ages; and it was the
+great statesman's hold on the government, at the time of the young
+king's sudden death, that saved the country from a revolution. Ferdinand
+had the man to whom he owed Castile, created a Cardinal, and he also
+appointed him Grand-Inquisitor.
+
+Many hold the erroneous opinion that Ximenez was one of the founders of
+the Holy Office in Spain. It was established ten years before he came to
+court as Isabella's confessor, and it was only now, in his sixty-first
+year that he had control in it. True to his reforming character he set
+about changing what abuses had crept in. He fostered the better
+religious instruction of the newly converted; and he prosecuted the
+inquisitor Lucero, who had been guilty of injustice.
+
+The great Cardinal-Archbishop was over threescore and ten when he
+undertook the expedition to Northern Africa. He had long burned to plant
+the Church again where it had flourished under St. Cyprian and St.
+Augustine. As the pirates of Oran were a terror in the Mediterranean, it
+was against that city he set out in the year 1509. His address to the
+troops before the battle, encouraging them against an enemy who had
+ravaged their coasts, dragged their children into slavery, and insulted
+the Christian name, roused the men to an heroic charge up the hill of
+Oran with Spain's battle cry _Santiago!_ on their lips. Of the vast
+treasure found in the city, Ximenez who had spent a fortune to fit out
+the expedition, only reserved the Moslem books for his University of
+Alcalá. For it must not be forgotten that in the midst of state
+questions, this remarkable man was carrying on the building and endowing
+of an University to whose halls the learned minds of Spain and Europe
+were invited. He was printing at his own expense the well-known Polyglot
+Bible, the first edition in their original texts of the Christian
+Scriptures. From his early years a close student of the Bible, he had
+learned Chaldaic and Hebrew for its better study; every day on his knees
+he read a chapter of the Holy Word. Besides these interests he found
+time to build various hospitals, libraries, and churches, to organize
+summer retreats for the health of his professors, to print and
+distribute free works on agriculture, to give dowries to distressed
+women, to visit the sick in person, and to feed daily thirty poor in his
+palace.
+
+Ferdinand, a good ruler, but suspicious and ungrateful, never had much
+love for the Cardinal. Yet on his deathbed he left him Regent of
+Castile, saying that a better leader on account of his virtues and love
+of justice could not be found to reëstablish order and morality, and
+only wishing he were a little more pliable. Some idea of Ximenez' genius
+may be gathered from a hasty review of his Regency, which covered the
+last two years of his life. It stands an astonishing feat of noble
+activity. He brought order into the finances and paid the crown debts.
+He introduced the militia system into the army, proving that men fight
+better when they defend their own homes. He strengthened the navy to
+help break the Moorish pirate Barbarossa who controlled the sea. He
+restored the dockyards of Seville. He crushed a French invasion in
+Navarre, and put down local disorders in Málaga and other places, for
+the nobles took this opportunity to again assert themselves. He adjusted
+troubles with both the ex-queens, Juana la Loca and Germaine de Foix. It
+was just four months before his death that the Polyglot Bible was
+finished. When the young son of the printer, dressed in his best attire,
+ran with the last sheets to the Cardinal, Ximenez exclaimed fervently:
+"I thank thee, O most high God, that thou hast brought this work to its
+longed-for end!" To-day the more scientific methods of philology have
+put the Complutensian Polyglot in the shade, but none deny that for its
+period it was a notable work.
+
+Another of Ximenez' reforms, little known, was his advocacy of Las Casas
+in the crusade against Indian slavery in the American colonies. As early
+as 1511, a Dominican preacher named Montesino gave a sermon in the
+Cathedral of Santo Domingo, before the governor Diego Columbus, in which
+he thundered against the ill-treatment of the natives. The monks were
+threatened with expulsion by the rich settlers unless Montesino
+retracted, whereupon on the following Sunday, the brave reformer not
+only repeated his previous attack but added fresh proofs. Against fierce
+opposition the Dominicans refused the sacraments to every one who owned
+an Indian slave. But they could not end the evil, so the passionate Las
+Casas, whose whole life may be said to have burned with fury for this
+cause, returned to Spain to plead for the Indians.
+
+The Regent took up the question with interest, and the commission which
+he organized and sent out to the Colonies is a model of reforming
+government worthy of study. Just as it was about to start, fourteen
+pious Franciscans came down to Spain to offer themselves for the good
+work. Among them was a brother of the King of Scotland,--a rather
+delightful episode of the cosmopolitanism of religion. Ximenez also
+issued a proclamation forbidding the importation of negro slaves, for
+the colonists had already learned that one negro did the work of four
+Indians. Should not this act of farseeing wisdom, be set against his
+stern treatment of the Moors?
+
+Ximenez ruled as Regent of Castile from the time of Ferdinand's death to
+the coming of Charles V to his distant possessions. The
+Cardinal-Archbishop, alert in mind and body though over eighty, was on
+his way to meet the young Emperor on his landing in the north, when he
+died suddenly at Roa, in the province of Burgos. He was buried in his
+loved Alcalá, and his tomb still rests in the dismantled town whose
+University has been removed to Madrid. Just thirty years after the
+Cardinal's death, one of the world's supreme geniuses was born under the
+shadow of his University, as if a compensating Providence would reward
+the Franciscan friar's unresting love of letters. Ximenez has received
+scant justice, but if the atmosphere of culture which he created at
+Alcalá, had aught to do with making Cervantes what he was, the stern
+educator did not live in vain.
+
+In Toledo it takes no effort of the imagination to people the streets
+with the figures of the past; it is every-day life that drops away, and
+the surprise is that one does not meet some intellectual-faced cardinal,
+some hidalgo in velvet cloak or chased armor. The stone effigies on the
+tombs of Spanish churches make it easy to picture a certain very
+splendid presence that once walked, in youth's proud livery, these
+silent streets. Garcilaso de la Vega is a pure type of the grandee,
+Spain's Philip Sidney, a courtier, a soldier, a poet whose gift of song
+made him the idol of the nation, he is one of the alluring figures of
+history. By writing in Virgilian classic verse, he changed the rhythm of
+Spanish poetry from that of the "Cid," of Juan de Mena and Manrique. "In
+our Spain, Garcilaso stands first beyond compare," wrote a contemporary
+poet, a judgment held later by Cervantes and Lope de Vega.
+
+This lovable hero was born in Toledo while Ximenez was still its active
+if aged Archbishop. He came of distinguished stock, the first Garcia
+Laso de la Vega was the favorite of Alfonso XI in 1328. This later
+namesake had for father a knight of Santiago, lord of many towns,
+ambassador to Rome, and one of Isabella and Ferdinand's councilors of
+state; on his mother's side his lineage was still more illustrious, she
+was a Guzmán, another of Spain's families whose prominence continued for
+centuries.
+
+Garcilaso, who early showed his love for the liberal arts, received a
+finished education. At fifteen he became guardsman to Charles V, and his
+qualities of heart and brain soon won him the affectionate admiration of
+the court. "Comely in action, noble in speech, gentle in sentiment,
+vehement in friendship, nature had made his body a fitting temple for
+his soul." And Spain can show this harmony in many of her sons. Some
+untranslatable words describe Garcilaso, _hermosamente varonil_, the
+superb manhood of beauty. During the Emperor's wars in Italy he fought
+bravely, and at the Battle of Pavia, where Pescara's lions of Spain
+carried all before them, he won distinction. He was not merely a soldier
+in Italy, his richly-endowed nature avidly seized on her art and
+learning. Cardinal Bembo calls him "best loved and most welcome of all
+the Spaniards that ever come to us." Like Sir Philip Sidney, the young
+poet was not destined to reach middle age; a short thirty-three years is
+his record. At a siege near Fréjus, in the south of France, he fell
+wounded into the arms of his dearest friend, the Marquis de Lombay, and
+in spite of Charles V sending his skilled physician and coming in
+person to visit the wounded knight, he died. He was buried among his
+ancestors in the church of San Pedro Mártir, in Toledo, "where every
+stone in the city is his monument," wrote the euphuistic Góngora.
+
+Truly that age was past rivalry in the appealingly noble characters it
+produced, fine spirits of heroism, fit inheritors of Isabella's period
+that had prepared the soil for such a flowering. A Garcilaso de la Vega
+is the bosom friend of a Francis Borgia, a Francis Borgia communes with
+a Teresa de Jesús with the intense pleasure of feeling souls akin, an
+Ignatius Loyola serves as guide to a Francis Xavier, and so on, these
+noted lives touch and overlap. What an array the first fifty years of
+the sixteenth century can show! 1503 Garcilaso was born, also Diego
+Hurtado de Mendoza, the noted diplomat and patron of letters; 1504 Luis
+de Granada, the religious writer; 1506 St. Francis Xavier of Navarre,
+who died the great missionary of the East; 1510 St. Francis Borgia; 1515
+St. Teresa, "fair sister of the seraphim"; 1529 Luis de León, Spain's
+best lyric poet; 1534 Fernando de Herrera, another poet; 1542, St. John
+of the Cross, that mystic flame of Divine love; 1545, the dashing hero
+of Lepanto, Don John of Austria; and final glory of this half century,
+and of all centuries, 1547, Miguel de Cervantes. The opening of the
+next century was fecund in men of creative genius: 1599, Velasquez;
+1616, Calderón; 1617, Murillo, but to one who loves _España la heróica_,
+the earlier age is dearer.
+
+The gray city on the Tagus is worthy of such citizens, "fit compeer for
+such high company." So many are her associations that one turns aside in
+irresistible digressions. In a palace near Santo Tomé, Isabella of
+Portugal, Charles V's wife, died: to those who know Titian's portrait of
+her in the Prado, she is a beautiful, living presence. Francis Borgia
+who in early youth had married one of her ladies in waiting, was the
+equerry appointed to escort her dead body to Granada, where it was to be
+laid in the Chapel Royal. When the coffin was opened to verify the
+Empress, she who had been all loveliness so short a time before was
+changed to so horrible a sight that the Marquis de Lombay is said to
+have exclaimed, "Never more will I serve a master who can die!" The
+Hound of Heaven was in pursuit of grand quarry here. A few years before,
+the death of Garcilaso his friend had sobered Francis. Now came the loss
+of his cherished wife, with whom he had lived in truly holy wedlock: in
+Catalonia where he was the Emperor's viceroy, a lady asked the Marquesa
+one day why she of such high standing and beauty dressed so plainly,
+and she answered how could she do otherwise when her husband wore a
+hair-shirt beneath his velvet. Lombay succeeded to his father's estates
+and the title of Duke of Gandía, his children--who eventually rose to
+distinction--were a natural temptation to stifle the higher call of
+which he was conscious:
+
+    "For, though I knew His love who followed,
+                    Yet was I sore adread
+    Lest, having Him, I must have naught beside."
+
+It was a tremendous decision to make, completely to relinquish a future
+of international influence; relentlessly the heavenly Feet pursued:
+
+    "I fled Him, down the nights and down the days;
+     I fled Him, down the arches of the years;
+     I fled Him, down the labyrinthine ways
+     Of my own mind; and in the midst of tears
+     I hid from Him, and under running laughter.
+                     Up vistaed hopes I sped;
+                     And shot, precipitated
+     Adown Titanic glooms of chasmed fears,
+     From those strong Feet that followed, followed after.
+       But with unhurried chase,
+       And unperturbèd pace,
+       Deliberate speed,
+       Majestic instancy,
+       They beat--and a Voice beat
+       More instant than the Feet--
+     'All things betray thee who betrayest Me.'"[26]
+
+The compelling Voice won. Having settled his children, the Duke of
+Gandía gave up titles and estates to enter the Company of Jesus, of
+which he has been called the second founder, so fruitful were the years
+of his generalship.
+
+The death of Isabella of Portugal is connected with another foremost
+member of the _Compañía_. The Pope sent Cardinal Farnese to carry his
+condolences to the Emperor, and the papal suite lodged in a house of
+Toledo near that of a widow named Ribadeneyra. Her willful,
+high-spirited and captivating boy Pedro attached himself voluntarily to
+the embassy, and so won the notice of the Cardinal that he was taken
+back to Rome, where, by another hap-hazard in his life, he fell under
+the influence of St. Ignatius Loyola, became his loved pupil and future
+biographer. The books of this delightful Pedro, telling the early
+history of the Jesuit Order make as solidly interesting a bout of
+reading as can while away a month. He was not only the confidant of the
+first General, but of his two successors, Lainez and Borgia, he helped
+St. Charles Borromeo in his reforms at Milan, and lived long enough to
+rejoice on the day of his great master's beatification, 1609.
+
+In Toledo many a time Cervantes strolled, here he has set several of the
+interesting "Novelas Exemplares"; St. Teresa founded one of her houses
+here, described in her "Libro de las Fundaciones," a companion book to
+the "Novelas"; that prodigy of improvization, Lope de Vega, also placed
+some dramas in these dark winding streets; and in the Jesuit house the
+historian Mariana, a friend of Ribadeneyra, browsed over his work,
+called by Ticknor "the most remarkable union of picturesque chronicling
+with sober fact that the world has ever seen."
+
+Our days in Toledo sped all too fast. For me it is one of those few
+fascinating cities of the world that rouses a recurrent longing to
+return. The impressive, solitary walk above the Tagus gorge at the hour
+of sunset is an unforgettable memory. Another walk leads to San
+Cristo-in-the-fields, the legend of whose crucifix, with one arm hanging
+pendant, has been told by Bécquer; beyond this church, across the
+_vega_, where the Tagus spreads out in relief from the confining gorge
+behind, is the _Fábrica de Armas_, where good Toledan blades are made,
+so elastic that they are packed in boxes curled up like the mainspring
+of a watch. Within the town the rambles are endless, now down the
+step-cut hill, past the Plateresque façade of Santa Cruz hospital,
+founded by Cardinal Mendoza; now out by the one sloping side of the city
+to another hospital, where the sculptor Berruguete died, and lies buried
+near his last work, the marble tomb of the founder, Cardinal Tavera. One
+day in the narrow street, hearing the sound of singing, I entered a
+monastery church, to listen for an enchanted hour to a choir of male
+voices admirably trained.[27] There is about this town an atmosphere
+that makes you sure that real peace and holiness lie within the looming
+convent walls under which you pass. The wise Chinese statesman, Kang Yu
+Wei, who has toured the world studying its religions, said he found in a
+monastery of Toledo an impressive spirit of devout silence.
+
+[Illustration: TOMB OF BISHOP SAN SEGUNDO, BY BERRUGUETE, AVILA]
+
+We carried away a beautiful last picture of the "Crown of Spain," as her
+loyal son Padilla called her. We were to catch the night train to
+Andalusia, at Castillejo on the express route. It was a night with an
+early moon. So white and romantic lay the city streets that we sent the
+luggage by the diligence and went on foot to the distant station. When
+we crossed the Alcántara bridge, we turned to look back at the climbing
+mass of houses and churches. With a feeling of sadness we gazed at the
+old mediæval city, so far from the fret of modern life. This was to be,
+we thought, our last impression of the Castiles. Andalusia, enticing,
+warm in the sun, facile, impudent, lay ahead. Farewell to the grave,
+courteous Castilian! Farewell to the valorous stoic-heart of Spain!
+
+
+
+
+CORDOVA AND GRANADA
+
+     "The art of the Alhambra is eminently decorative, light, and
+     smiling; it expresses the well being, the repose, the riches of
+     life; its grace lay almost entirely in its youth. Not having the
+     severe lines that rest the eye, these works paled when their first
+     freshness faded. Theirs was a delicate beauty that has suffered
+     more than others from the deterioration of its details."
+
+     RENÉ BAZIN.
+
+
+In his "Terre d' Espagne," M. René Bazin speaks of the faded city of
+Cordova, and the term is singularly exact. It is a tranquil, faded
+ghost, not a nightmare ghost, but an aloof, melancholy specter. I have
+been haunted by it often since the day and night spent there. Dull and
+unimportant as it now is, hard to be imagined as the Athens of the West
+with almost a million inhabitants and an enlightened dynasty of Caliphs,
+yet, like a true ghost, vague in feature, Cordova succeeds in making
+itself unforgettable. The past covers it like a mist. It gave me more
+the sensation of the Moslem than any other spot in Spain: Allah, not
+Christ, is its brooding spirit.
+
+We strolled hither and thither through its preternaturally quiet streets
+which are lined with two-storied white or pinkish houses. Every few
+minutes we stopped with exclamations of delight to gaze through the iron
+grilles at the tiled and marble patios, here seen for the first time. "A
+patio! How shall I describe a patio!" exclaimed De Amicis, when he first
+came into Andalusia. "It is not a garden, it is not a room, it is not a
+courtyard, it is the three in one,--small, graceful, and mysterious."
+They are so spotless a king could eat off their paving-stones. Isolated
+from the stir of the world, they breathe that intimate quiet of the
+spirit felt in the pictures of the Primitives. To wander for the first
+time over a city filled with these oases, gives that exhilaration of
+novelty which as a rule the traveler has long since lost with his first
+journeys.
+
+I should not say our very vivid impression of Cordova depended on chance
+details,--the hour of arrival, a personal mood, the weather. Of course
+the strangeness was heightened by our coming from the north, through a
+cold night of travel on the train that made the transition from the
+central plateau of the Castiles to the semi-tropical coast belt of
+Andalusia, an abrupt one. Toledo, the last seen Castilian town, had been
+so distinctly Christian in spite of Moorish remains, and our
+night-flitting over the level sea of La Mancha was so possessed by that
+_español neto_, the adventuresome Don, that suddenly to awake among
+palm trees and oranges gave the sensation of another race and climate.
+It was this province with its astonishing fertility that had been the
+land of Elysium of the ancients.
+
+Having grown familiar with the orderly streets of Cordova by day, it was
+quite without fear that we took a night ramble. Not a soul was astir.
+What were they doing, these cloistered people? It was as deserted as
+Stamboul at night, more lonely even, for here was not a single yellow
+cur to bay the moon, nor the iron beat of the watchman's staff; and
+though like the Orient in some aspects, these streets were far too
+orderly and the houses too spotless. Perhaps there lay the source of the
+indefinable fascination; this was neither East nor West, but a place
+stranded in time, made by circumstances that never will be repeated. The
+Oriental influenced the Spaniard deeply, a psychological as well as a
+racial influence. I often felt that the dignified gravity which so
+distinguishes a Spaniard from his fellow Latins is a trait acquired
+unconsciously from his Arab neighbors: nothing like it is found except
+among races whose ancestors dwelt in the desert. Also the excessive
+generosity and hospitality of the Spaniard are oriental virtues, just as
+the Andalusian procrastination and acceptance of fate are oriental
+failings. We too often forget that there were generations when,
+religious hatred quieting down, the two peoples lived side by side in
+friendly consideration. If the Christian gained from the Moslem, the
+Moor in Spain was influenced no less potently by the standards of the
+European. He became a very different being from his brother in northern
+Africa. He learned to gather libraries, to express himself in buildings
+where he translated his nomad carpet into colored stucco; much of his
+traditional jealousy was laid aside and Moorish ladies appeared at the
+tournaments to applaud their Moorish cavaliers who tilted with the same
+rules of romantic chivalry as the Christian knights. Moslem civilization
+could even boast some femmes savantes. The stimulus of the two opposing
+races gave Spain just the impetus she needed, and the conqueror lost
+with his very victory. When all men think the same way without the spur
+of competition, inaction and ill-health are sure to follow. Perhaps the
+upholders of law and order need not worry too much to-day over the
+anarchists and socialists in the commercial districts of Spain: is not
+the health of a nation quickened by struggle?
+
+The soul of a Spanish city is always the Cathedral, and Cordova has what
+it called one, but it is no more a Christian church than the Caaba at
+Mecca. The canons in Charles V's time tore out the center of the Mosque
+and built a Plateresque-Gothic _capilla mayor_ and _coro_. It was an
+ignorant thing to do, and when the Emperor saw their work he exclaimed
+in disgust, "You have built here what anyone might have built elsewhere,
+but you have destroyed what was unique in the world!" Nevertheless,
+those old canons had some excuse. They felt that they could not pray in
+a proper Christian manner under the low, oppressing roof of Islam.
+Instead of "Christe Eleison," it was "Allah illal allah, ve Mahommed
+recoul" that came to their lips in abominable heresy, so in desperation
+they put up the incongruous enclosure and tried to shut Islam out.
+
+A building every one of whose stones has been laid in earnest faith,
+seems to have a spirit that will never desert it, let the ritual change
+as it may. Santa Sophia is Christian in spite of eight thousand
+Mussulmans prostrated there on the 27th of Ramazan: the Gregorian chant
+still echoes in Westminster Abbey. So here the canons' efforts were in
+vain, the Mezquita makes heretics of us all, we turn to the Mihrab as
+the holy of holies, not to the High Altar.
+
+The Mihrab is a dream of art, the mosaics are richer and softer in hue
+than an eastern rug. Leo, the Christian Emperor on the Bosphorus, sent
+Byzantine workmen to teach the Caliph this art. The enclosing carvings
+have the distinction of being in marble, not in the customary plaster,
+also a Christian innovation. "Let us rear a mosque which shall surpass
+that of Bagdad, of Damascus, and of Jerusalem, a mosque which shall
+become the Mecca of the West," said the founders in the eighth century;
+and there is a tradition that the Caliph himself worked an hour a day
+with the builders. It is truly "unique in the world," for nothing was
+ever like these myriad aisles, forty in one direction crossed by twenty
+in another, with nine hundred short pillars of every kind of
+marble--green, red, gray, brown, fluted white--holding up the roof.
+These pillars are baseless and only thirteen feet in height; and arches
+of an ugly red and yellow spring in two tiers from column to column. The
+effect is incredibly original and eccentric,--a veritable forest of
+pillars. The fatalist spirit of Mohammed, the acceptance of life's
+limitation, is insistent here, the desert Arab's attitude of adoration,
+forehead prone to earth, is forced on you: to kneel with upraised face
+is impossible under so low a roof; were there the usual hanging balls
+and roc's eggs, even the Inquistor-General himself would have
+genuflected toward Mecca! As I wandered about the Mezquita, the two
+creeds seemed to formulate themselves more distinctly for me: one,
+soaring and idealistic, channel for the loftiest aspirations of the
+soul, the other a magnificent step forward from the lower forms of
+worship about it in the East, nevertheless limited, so far and not
+beyond, not cleaving to the impossible, to the unattainable. "Be perfect
+even as your Father in heaven is perfect" was not taught by Mohammed.
+Islamism is a very noble average, and perhaps because men in general are
+the average, it may seem better to satisfy them. Christianity is a
+religion for the chosen souls of humanity, only by aiming at the
+impossible can the best in man develop. The majority of us are not
+chosen souls, hence we have the bitter inconsistencies between the
+theory and the practice of our faith to-day; and yet, once the vision of
+the unspeakable soul-paradise of the mystic has been conceived of, to
+rest satisfied with an average religion is impossible. Islam makes men
+happy with a dreaming bliss that veils the sun, Christianity bids you
+look up at the sun whether it blinds you or not, and here and there
+arise souls that can bear the vision and help weak eyes to see.
+
+When we left the Mosque, the obsession of the East still continued in
+the courtyard, where about the fountain sat groups of idlers only
+wanting the fez and turban for completion. Once the Mezquita opened on
+this court, there was no dividing wall, the trees planted in symmetrical
+lines carried on the rows of columns within, and an absolutely
+enchanting sight it must have been to look from this orange grove far
+into the dim interior of the Mosque, lighted every evening with some
+five thousand hanging lamps.
+
+All tourists in Spain go to Granada, so they know the confusing station
+of Bobadilla where trains from north, south, east, and west, meet and
+exchange passengers; the journey from there on to Granada gives a
+beautiful glimpse of Andalusia; picturesquely set towns, scattered white
+villas, olive groves, even in winter the grass as green as spring. As
+apples, in the Basque provinces, and carrots at Toledo, so here oranges
+were piled up in masses. The last thirty miles of the journey were
+through the historic _vega_, a veritable garden of Eden in fertility.
+Before we reached Granada it was dark and above the city was rising an
+early moon as big as one in a Japanese print. The proprietor of the
+Pension-Villa Carmona in the Alhambra grounds was there to meet us, and
+we soon rattled off for the long drive up to the Moorish citadel.
+
+A night arrival at Granada enhances the romantic effect. It is
+mysterious to turn in from the noisy streets of the town at the Carlo
+Quinto gate and under the heavy foliage of elm trees slowly to mount the
+Alhambra hill; there is a gurgle and rush of running water on every
+side, one has the feeling of being in a thick Alpine forest. The horses
+mount slowly, wind and turn, pass through various gates and at length
+you are in the small village of the citadel, and in three minutes can
+walk right into the Caliph's palace. Spain cannot show many such
+beautiful northern parks, with a growth of ivy and a shimmer of
+arrow-headed leaves under the elm trees where nightingales sing in
+season.
+
+It was Ford I think who started the statement which most guide books
+have gone on repeating that the Duke of Wellington planted these elms
+("the Duke" occupies more space in Murray's Hand-book than _los Reyes
+Católicos_ themselves!) He may have planted some, but a certain old book
+of travels, yellow with age, tell us that just these same elm trees were
+growing and just the same kind of songster singing in 1789. "The ascent
+toward the Alhambra," wrote the Rev. Joseph Townsend in that year, "is
+through a shady and well watered grove of elms abounding with
+nightingales whose melodious warbling is not confined to the midnight
+hour; here, incessant, it is equally the delight of noon."
+
+This part of Granada is charming. But the city below is so dirty and
+ill-conditioned that it would spoil the Alhambra for a long stay. Even
+in the darkness on the night of our arrival it was easy to discern what
+a different aspect it had from most Spanish towns, which, while they are
+often poor, are frugally clean and self-respecting. In Granada the
+people appeared ill-tempered, if you paused anywhere, diseased children
+gathered in a persistent begging circle, and the fierce copper-colored
+gypsies were so diabolically bold in glance and act that they made a
+walk in any of the suburbs too dangerous to be repeated. We had often
+turned off the beaten track in the Asturias, in Galicia, and Castile,
+without the least fear, but Granada will remain for me the one
+thoroughly disagreeable, frightening spot in Spain.
+
+Described as the Alhambra has been, it would be fatuous to try it again.
+I can only give superficial personal impressions. There is no use in
+disguising that this style of architecture disappointed me enormously. I
+could admire its extreme elegance, the details of the _artesonado_
+ceilings, the _ajimez_ windows, I could acknowledge it was fairy-like, a
+charming caprice, exquisite jewel-box work: as a whole it left me quite
+cold. It was too small, it lacked height, there was no grandeur about
+it,--and all so newly done up with restorations! The first visit gave me
+an effect of trumpery, and even after I had seen it daily for two weeks,
+I could not forget that these mathematically correct designs, one yard
+very like the next, were imprinted by an iron mold on wet plaster. This
+was skilled artisan's work, not the intellectual thought of the
+architect; here was no cutting of enduring, masculine stone with the
+individual freedom of genius. Decorations of Cufic mottoes are
+effective, but they can never compete with a Parthenon frieze, with a
+Chartres or Santiago portal. Fantasy was here, not imagination; again I
+felt the bound limit of Islam.
+
+Enough for the negative side. For praise, if the Alhambra itself is
+disappointing, its setting is imperial. The view on which you look out
+from its romantic _ajimez_ windows has few equals in the world, and
+accounts easily for the supremacy of this spot in man's thought. You
+look down on the ravine of the Darro, the white Generalife near by,
+across the river, the piled-up houses of Granada backed by near hills
+covered with cactus. From the Torre de la Vela is a grander view. The
+_vega_ with towns and historic battlefields lies below, and you try to
+pick out Santa Fé, which sprang up in eighty days to house the Christian
+troops, or Zubia, where Isabella was almost captured, or Puente de
+Pinos, which the discouraged Columbus had reached when the Queen's
+messenger brought him back to arrange for the great voyage. On this
+tower, after seven and a half centuries of Moorish rule, the first
+Christian standard was hoisted by Cardinal Mendoza, on January 2d, 1492,
+festival still of the countryside, when the fountains play again in the
+Alhambra, and down in the Royal Chapel the Queen's illuminated missal is
+used on the altar. All Christian Europe rejoiced with Spain, and Henry
+VII in England had a special _Te Deum_ chanted in gratitude. While on
+one side is this tropical _vega_ on the other is the glorious Sierra
+Nevada, clothed in perpetual snow. So close are the mountains that on
+certain days it seemed as if a short hour's walk could reach them,
+closer than the Jungfrau to Mürren. It is the most untarnished expanse
+of snow I have seen on any mountains. We often climbed the tower for the
+sunset, and one evening a genuine Alpine glow made the Sierras
+magnificent past description. "Ill-fated the man who lost all this!"
+Charles V exclaimed.
+
+There was a lesser view we grew attached to, that from the strip of
+garden called the _Adarves_, warm in the sun under the vine-covered
+bastions. It was laid out by the Emperor, and it fronts the snow range
+looming above the green mass of park trees. Almost every day we would
+bring books and sewing there--December, with mountains 12,000 feet high
+beside us!--and the gardener would set chairs for us at the stone table.
+Work and books would be dropped for long minutes to look out on those
+astonishingly noble mountains. If only the city below were well-ordered
+and clean like Avila or Segovia or Seville, this would be the spot of
+all Spain for a long stay.
+
+We had to descend at times to the repulsive town for sightseeing. We
+hunted up the Church of San Gerónimo, where the Gran Capitán, that true
+Castilian knight alike renowned as general and diplomatist, Gonsalvo de
+Cordova, was buried. Once around his tomb seven hundred captured banners
+were ranged, but the church since it was sacked in the French invasion
+has been unused. It was appropriate that the Great Captain found burial
+in Granada, since it was here he trained the famous legions he was to
+lead to victory in Italy. Isabella on her deathbed listened with
+thrilled interest to the news of Gonsalvo's exploits at Naples. Another
+day, to see the view of the Sierras from the Church of San Nicolás, we
+climbed the Albaicín quarter, so squalid and poverty-stricken that the
+very sheets hung out to dry were a fretwork of patches, and the smells
+of goats and pigs were awful. A swarm of deformed beggars gathered round
+us, and I must confess to driving them off indignantly. Then as we
+descended the hill, down the twisting oriental passages, I was
+reproached by a little episode that showed a charity wider than
+mine--not good utilitarian ethics perhaps, but good early
+Christianity--a woman, poorest of the poor, at a turning of the lane was
+giving her mite to one more stricken in misery. Is it any wonder Spain
+can win affection with her good and her evil lying close beside each
+other in a grand primitive way? Whenever I joined her detractors and
+abused her, within the hour she would offer some silent rebuke.
+
+Still another walk was the beautiful one along the Darro, then up the
+steep hill between the Generalife and the Alhambra. In that deserted
+lane one morning as I was passing alone, suddenly the gypsy king stepped
+out, a startling image of brutal, manly beauty, with his blue-black hair
+topped by a peaked hat. He approached insolently, with a glance of
+contemptuous, piercing boldness, struck an attitude, and holding out a
+package, commanded: "Buy my photograph." With beating heart I hurried
+by, to turn into the safe Alhambra enclosure with a tremor of relief.
+
+The Cathedral of Granada is a pretentious Greco-Roman building, good of
+its kind, but I do not like that kind. Out of it leads the Royal Chapel,
+where "_los muy altos, católicos, y muy poderosos Señores Don Ferdinando
+y Doña Isabel_" lie buried with their unfortunate daughter, Juana la
+Loca, and her Hapsburg husband. These two elaborate Renaissance tombs,
+the wood carved _retablo_ and a notably fine _reja_, make this _Capilla
+Real_ a unique spot. Isabella the queen left a last testament that
+breathes the fine sincerity of her whole life: "I order that my body be
+interred in the Alhambra of Granada in a tomb which will lie on the
+ground and can be brushed with feet, that my name be cut on a single
+simple stone. But if the king, my lord, choose a sepulchre in any other
+part of our kingdom, I wish my body to be exhumed and buried by his
+side, so that the union of our bodies in the tomb, may signify the union
+of our hearts in life, as I hope that God in his infinite mercy may
+permit that our souls be united in heaven." It seems as if a king whose
+life-long mate had been an Isabella of Castile might have had more
+dignity of soul than to give her a trivial successor. When Ximenez heard
+of her death, sternly-repressed man of intellect though he was, he burst
+into lamentation. "Never," he exclaimed, "will the world again behold a
+queen, with such greatness of soul, such purity of heart, with such
+ardent piety and such zeal for justice!" And the Cardinal had known her
+in the undisguised intimacy of the Confessional and stood side by side
+with her through years of difficult state guidance. The astute Italian
+scholar, Peter Martyr, who lived at her court, said that at the end of
+the fifteenth century Isabella had made Spain the most orderly country
+in Europe, and another foreign scholar, Erasmus, tells us that under
+her, letters and liberal studies had reached so high a state that Spain
+served as a model to the cultivated nations.
+
+From one end of her land to the other this incomparable woman has left
+her mark; at Valladolid the remembrance of her marriage; Segovia whence
+she started out to claim her kingdom; at Burgos the tomb of her parents;
+Salamanca where her son was educated, and whose library façade is in her
+grandiose style; Avila where this only son lies buried; Santiago where
+her hospice still harbors the needy; Seville where she gave audience in
+the Alcázar; her refuge for the insane here in Granada;--hardly a city
+that she did not visit and endow:
+
+    "If thy rare qualities, sweet gentleness,
+    Thy meekness saint-like, wife-like government
+    Obeying in commanding, and thy parts
+    Sovereign and pious, else could speak thee out
+    The Queen of earthly queens."
+
+
+
+
+VIGNETTES OF SEVILLE
+
+      "Mi vida está pendiente
+    Solo en un hilo,
+    Y el hilo está en tu mano, dueño querido.
+              Mira y repara,
+        Que si el hilo se rompe
+              Mi vida acaba."
+
+    CANTAR ANDALUZ.
+
+     "El secreto de la vida consiste en nacer todas las mañanas."--RAMÓN
+     CAMPOAMOR.
+
+
+The outburst of spring in Seville is something unforgettable. With roses
+in bloom during December and January, the winter was like the summer of
+some places, and so we realized with surprise during February that a
+genuine spring was beginning. The bushes and hedges put on fresh coats
+of green, and barely a month after the trees had been stripped of their
+myriad oranges, the same trees were covered with white blossoms. To sit
+beside the lake in the park on a sunny March morning seemed like being
+in an ideal scene of the theater; hard, white pathways wound in every
+direction between miles of rose hedges; an avenue of vivid Judas trees
+led to a blue and white tiled Laiterie, where society came each morning
+to drink a hygienic glass of milk, and the graceful girls played
+_diavolo_ with young officers; the groves of orange trees filled the air
+with an almost overpowering scent; children threw crumbs to the ducks in
+the pond; high up in the palm trees they were doing the parks' spring
+cleaning by cutting away the spent leaves.
+
+With such a winter climate it is strange that Seville was deserted by
+foreigners till the Easter rush. During the four months of our stay we
+had no need of fires, and sometimes there were days so warm that we did
+not start for the customary constitutional till toward evening. Every
+single day of the winter we took a walk in the same direction,--to the
+_Delicias_ parks. Such monotony at first seemed a very limited pleasure,
+but before the winter ended we had grown to be such true Sevillians that
+we liked the placid regularity, and whenever we went further afield the
+roads were so abominably kept that we were glad to return to the shady
+fragrance of the park. We gradually learned to sit on the benches with
+the contented indolence of the southerner, watching the carriages roll
+by, family coaches a bit antiquated, the women well-dressed but not with
+the Madrileña's elegance. As the same people passed day after day, we
+soon had favorites among them. One young girl, like a rose in her bloom
+of quick blushes, was having the golden hour of her life; all winter we
+watched her in the _Delicias_, at the theater, in church, and she never
+appeared without her cavalier somewhere in sight: a man in love here,
+like a man at his prayers, has no false pride to disguise his devotion.
+His carriage openly pursued hers in the park, the coachman an eager
+abettor of the romance. They would often alight, and while her mother
+and small sister loitered far behind, the happy _novios_ were allowed to
+ramble side by side through the lovely paths. It seemed to us that we
+were no sooner settled in some retired nook of the pleasure grounds than
+these two sympathetic young people would come strolling past, and her
+sudden blush in recognition of the two strangers whose interest she
+felt, was very charming to see,--so too thought the young man at her
+side, for he always paced with his head bent irresistibly to hers. Life
+can offer worse fates than to be in love in the springtime, under
+Seville's flowering trees.
+
+This happy starting with romance has much to do with the contented
+marriages of the race: here, as I said before, is little of the
+pernicious "dot" system of France and Italy; good looks and attractive
+personal qualities win a husband. Spanish women make excellent wives,
+their first fire and passion turning to self-abnegation. They are
+spared the ignoble competition that luxury brings; except in Madrid and
+among a small set in a couple more of the big cities, most Spanish
+ladies dress with extreme simplicity in black; the mantilla having more
+or less equalized conditions. It is still the custom for a mother and
+her daughters to go to church before eight every morning; often I saw
+them returning as I sat drinking my coffee on the hotel balcony. For
+church they wear the black veil that so much better becomes them than
+the big hats donned for the afternoon drive. Strangers are inclined to
+take for granted the idleness of women's lives in a city like Seville. I
+had slight opportunity of judging for myself. From a friend, however,
+who happened to have letters of introduction to a Sevillian whom she
+thought a mere social butterfly after seeing her drive by idly every
+afternoon, I learned that being taken into the intimacy of this pretty,
+fashionable woman, it appeared that she rose before seven every day and
+had never once missed giving each of her four children his morning bath.
+
+When we occasionally lingered late in the _Delicias_ at noon, we would
+see the _cigarreras_ from the great tobacco factory come out to spend
+their siesta. The proverbial beauty of these girls is much exaggerated,
+but the fresh flower in the hair worn by every woman of the people, old
+and young alike, gives a decided charm. Sometimes they would dance
+together under the trees, just for the mere pleasure of motion, and sing
+the passionate _coplas_ of the province, of the very essence of a
+people, impossible to translate:
+
+    "Nor with you nor without you
+     My sorrows have end,
+     For with you, you kill me,
+     And without you, I die."
+
+Or this other, a _majo_ to his chosen one:
+
+    "Take, little one, this orange
+     From my orchard grove apart,
+     Be careful lest you use a knife
+     For inside is my heart."
+
+The _majo_ of Andalusia is the peasant dandy of Spain, and truly he is
+superb. As he gallops in from the country on his proud-necked stocky
+Andalusian horse--by instinct he knows how to sit a horse--or when he
+walks by jauntily in his short bolero jacket, with the springing gait of
+youth and dominating manhood, a duchess must look at him with
+admiration. The city loafer of Seville is a miserable specimen, and his
+insolence on the street is a constant outrage, but the country
+_labrador_ does much to redeem him. One day we walked back across the
+fields from Italica, and passed many of these self-respecting peasants
+who gave us the proud, courteous salute of the north, but no sooner
+were we within the city limits than began the bold staring, the jostling
+and remarks peculiar to Seville alone.
+
+All classes and conditions are met with in the park. Once a week the
+black soutanes and red shoulder scarfs of the seminarists of San Telmo
+give an added note of color. One of the lads, happening to know a
+Spanish acquaintance of ours, often stopped to chat. He told us details
+of their life, that at Easter and for the summer each returned in
+secular dress to his family, and if, during his years of preparation, he
+found he was not suited to the priesthood, he was free to leave at any
+time. Thus this lad had entered with ten others, of whom only three
+remained. "Soon only two, I fear," he added, with his clever mundain
+smile. "They tell me I'm too fond of society." Yet I have seen English
+ladies, true to their Invincible Armada traditions, shake their heads in
+pity when the seminarists passed, and sigh: "Poor young prisoners!"
+
+We made other acquaintances in the placid Seville parks; the venders of
+peanut candy, of the delicious sugar wafers for which you gamble on a
+revolving machine, above all our _Agua! Agua!_ friend. This last would
+polish the glass with an agile turn of the wrist, then bend slightly and
+from his shoulder pour down the crystal stream with undeviating aim. No
+people on earth drink water like the Spanish; it is a national love. A
+tot of four will stand spellbound before the fat dolphin of a park
+fountain, calling in beatific ecstasy, "_Hay agua!_"
+
+Though the _Delicias_ is the favorite haunt, one can while away an
+afternoon in the garden of the Alcázar, on its pretty tiled seats. When
+we went through the Moorish palace, its restorations seemed so gaudily
+done that again I felt the sensation that this was trumpery. As at the
+Alhambra the fact of its medium being plaster, not enduring stone,
+spoils Moorish art for me. Some evenings for the sunset we climbed the
+Giralda, the only height from which a view over the fertile country can
+be got, for Seville's great drawback is its flatness; there is not one
+high spot for loitering at the close of day as in most Italian towns.
+From this cathedral tower, the view down on the white roofs of the city
+holds one spellbound; groves of palms show the parks, neat terrace
+gardens on the tops of the houses, and not a vestige of a street. No
+wonder, for the passages called streets are barely wide enough for three
+to walk abreast, and they twist and bend in true oriental fashion. We
+used to turn in behind the Alcázar, and wander hap-hazard, past
+Murillo's house, round and about north of that chief thoroughfare, the
+_Sierpes_. For surprises and romance this town has no equal. Tucked
+away in the narrow lanes is patio after patio, not, like those of
+Cordova, merely spotless and tranquil, but imposing with white marble
+columns and pavements, for Italica, nearby, an obliterated city that
+lays claim to three of Rome's emperors, Trajan, Hadrian, and Theodosius,
+was stripped to adorn the younger Seville. The exterior of the houses is
+insignificant, just two or three stories of plain plaster walls, all
+beauty being kept for the inside, for the patio, with its central
+fountain and walls of colored tiles. We used often to pause at the open
+grille to gaze in with delight, agreeing with the old German proverb,
+"Whom God loves has a house in Seville." They say that in summer-time
+the family moves down from the upper story to live around the patio,
+over which an awning is stretched, and every evening animated
+_tertulias_ are held there. A June walk at night in these lanes must be
+paradise: "_Quien no ha visto á Sevilla, no ha visto á maravilla_."
+
+All over the city are small churches that antedate the Cathedral, with
+noticeable twelfth century portals, timber roofs, and often a Moorish
+tower. The best are Omnium Sanctorum and San Marcos: and a lovely bit to
+sketch is the façade of Santa Paula with its Italian faience decoration.
+The peaceful patio of the chief Hospital--a church in the center--must
+be a nook of repose loved by the convalescent. I could not see that the
+ill or aged suffered in Spain, despite the general abuse of her
+institutions. What is it about Spanish ways that makes most Englishmen
+so pessimistic over her? It seems to me that an Englishman should be
+sympathetic here, for so many of his traits he has in common with the
+Spaniard, such as sincerity, independence, loyalty to national ideals,
+to their rulers and creed. A prominent London publisher, in a new series
+of travel books, has lately reprinted Richard Ford's "Wanderings in
+Spain," thereby perpetrating a grave injustice, for in this book is
+gathered, with no sense of proportion, the abuse expurgated (chiefly
+because of its length) from his "Murray's Hand-book of Spain." Ford
+visited Spain when she was torn by the disorders of civil war, after
+three centuries of ill-government. A sad picture of England could be
+made by the foreign visitors who happened to witness the Lord George
+Gordon riots or the industrial agitations of the Midlands, or who
+visited the poorhouses, schools, and prisons described by Dickens and
+Charles Reade, yet who would maintain that such a picture was true as a
+whole, or print such a book to represent England to-day? Why must a
+different justice be meted out to Spain? Ford could be enthusiastic over
+the Castilian peasants' manhood, over the security of life and purse
+throughout the northern provinces, and the gentle kindness of the
+country women, the hospitality of whose kitchens he sought, but when it
+comes to the national religion he fills his pages with false statements.
+"One never pelts a tree unless it has fruit on it," a Spaniard will say
+as he shrugs his shoulders.
+
+There is no doubt that the travelers in Spain then as well as the
+travelers of to-day see many things that have cause to distress them,
+but it should never be forgotten that in cities like Seville, the
+disease and vice which are kept out of sight in a distant slum in
+northern towns, are here right in the open eye. The poorest here live in
+the same block with the rich, a juxtaposition that may lead the outsider
+to see only the evil of a place, but for the native has the happier
+result of a more human primitive relationship between the classes than
+in most countries: poverty has never been looked on as pitiable in
+Spain: haughtiness and snobbishness are almost unknown here.[28]
+
+I must also add, to be quite honest, that, often, the impudence of the
+Sevillian street loafer and the exasperating pursuance of the beggar
+children, made me break out in Invincible Armada abuse myself; then some
+slight episode would occur to reprove me. One day we paused to watch a
+very ugly little girl of five nurse her wounded dog. She was pity
+incarnate, she had rolled it in her poor shawl and rocked it backward
+and forward. When she gently touched the bandaged paw tears came to her
+eyes. We often passed her during the winter, and feeling our sympathy,
+unconscious of its first cause, the little tot would wait shyly till we
+had gone by, then dash after us to thrust into our hands two tiny
+bunches of orange blossoms or violets, and then tear away in confusion,
+refusing to be thanked. That she so ugly and poor had won two friends
+intoxicated her warm little heart, and she regularly prepared her
+offerings of answering affection, to have ready when the strangers
+passed: every characteristic of this untrained child of the street was
+admirable. Another time a stationer sent his young apprentice of
+fourteen to show us the way to a book-binder's. We offered the boy the
+usual fee, when he flung back his head proudly with a flush; his name
+was Emilio Teruel y Nobile, and the high-minded young descendant of
+Aragonese or Castilian blood bore it worthily. Having shown us the shop
+we sought, and realizing that we now recognized him as an equal, he made
+his farewell with a poise and reserved grace that were splendid. Later
+we occasionally passed Emilio, and the equality of the greetings
+exchanged, not the slightest presumption on his part, is a thing only
+to be found in _caballero_ Spain.
+
+To follow the church feasts that so diversify and brighten the year for
+these southern countries, also helps one to see them more justly. On the
+19th of March, St. Joseph's Day, a large crowd filled the Cathedral to
+listen to a sermon, almost the best I have ever heard, wherein the
+sanctity of the family and the dignity of labor were held up as needed
+models in the world to-day. Before the lighted altar of St. Joseph I
+noticed a magnificent looking hidalgo, _muy hijo de algo y de limpia
+sangre_, with three equally grandly built young sons beside him. Such
+men had never been raised amid city temptations. The line of the four
+profiles was so similar it was striking. When they rose from prayer, the
+self-forgetful prayer of the Spaniard with bowed head and closed eyes,
+the lads pressed about the father they revered, they laid their hands
+lovingly on his shoulder, the youngest stroked his back as he talked to
+him; two of the group were probably named José, and the father had come
+in from a country town to pass his saint's day with his boys at the
+University. All over the city, cakes and presents were carried openly,
+for everyone named Joseph (and the Pepes are legion) was keeping open
+house, and his friends were pouring in to offer congratulations.
+
+In Spain moving scenes are witnessed when the Viaticum is brought to the
+dying: the inmates of the house go to the church to escort the priest
+back in procession, the sacristan gives each a lighted candle, then at
+the door on their return, the servants kneel to receive "_el Señor, su
+Majestad_." Sir William Stirling-Maxwell has told of a duchess in
+Madrid, returning from a ball past midnight, that when a priest passed
+carrying the sacrament to the dying, she resigned her carriage to him
+and returned home on foot. It is said that if in a theater the tinkle of
+a passing bell is heard, actors and audience fall on their knees.
+
+In Seville, in spite of there being none of the mild festivities the
+foreigner finds in Rome or Florence--not a single tea party!--we never
+had time to be bored. No sooner were the celebrations for December 8th
+over than the Christmas _fiestas_ began. Flocks of turkeys were driven
+through the streets and sold from door to door, and it was comical to
+see one of the awkward creatures step stiffly into the corridor leading
+to a patio, gravely crane his neck about to observe the romantic
+white-marble propriety within the gate, and his stupefaction when the
+iron _reja_ opened to him with too warm a welcome, alas! In the shop
+windows were exposed all sorts of useful gifts, silver-necked flagons
+full of yellow oil, and ornate boxes of cakes. The Midnight Mass on
+Christmas Eve was very solemn under the lofty piers of the Cathedral.
+The people gathered there seemed to be meditating on the mystery they
+commemorated, and at the words of the Gospel, "Et Verbum caro factum
+est," all fell spontaneously to their knees.
+
+Not long after the New Year, the King and Queen, to escape the icy winds
+of Madrid, came to pass a month in the sun-warmed Alcázar. It was Doña
+Victoria's first visit to Seville, so the city made it an occasion;
+triumphal arches were put up across the streets, the fences of the parks
+were painted crimson and gold, there was a great clipping of trees and
+repairing of roads,--a bit late this last (but truly Andalusian) for the
+royal carriages had to grind down the scattered stones,--also, the
+private houses put on new coats of whitewash. Platforms for seats were
+built along the route from the station to the Alcázar. We hired chairs
+on the steps of the Lonja opposite the Cathedral, as it did not seem
+likely that the old custom of going direct to the church to sing a _Te
+Deum_ of thanksgiving would be set aside. We were in place early and
+watched the animated crowds passing,--there was no pushing or crowding.
+Deputaries in gold lace and medals dashed by; the balconies on all
+sides, hung with the national colors, were filled with pretty women.
+The clamor of the Giralda bells told the waiting people the train had
+arrived; then, as the royal carriage passed, Doña Victoria was given an
+enthusiastic reception: her bright golden hair and brilliant complexion
+won cries of "_Bonita_!" "_Simpática_!" "_Guapa_!" Before the cigar
+factory, where its five thousand employees were grouped, a band of the
+handsomest _cigarreras_, in red and yellow silk shawls, stepped forward
+to present the Queen with a fan made of flowers, on whose floating
+ribbon was painted a genuine Andalusian welcome:
+
+    "Tienes el mismo nombre      "Thou hast the same name
+         Que la Patrona,[29]          As our patroness,[29]
+     Tienes 'ange' en la cara,    Thou hast the face of an angel,
+         Tienes corona,              Thou art a queen,
+         Dios te bendiga!         May God bless thee,
+    Eres la más hermosa              The fairest that has come
+    Que entró en Sevilla."              to Seville!"
+
+The loud exclamations of delight in the robust health of the little
+Prince of Asturias pleased the Queen, and as she passed through the
+cheering mass of people, she made very gracefully the foreign gesture of
+greeting, the fingers bent back rapidly on the palm. As the night
+journey had tired her, the doctors ordered her immediate entrance into
+the Alcázar, postponing the _Te Deum_ till the afternoon; and Seville,
+who clings tenaciouly to old customs, was distinctly displeased.
+
+The group that stood on the Cathedral steps later in the day was superb.
+There was the Archbishop in cope and miter, with his silver crozier, the
+canons in purple robes, the acolytes bearing the historic crosses
+carried on festivals, and all the chief citizens of the town. For just
+this occasion the huge western doors were thrown open, giving a new
+aspect to the nave; through this door the King is the only one
+privileged to pass, but on this her _first_ entrance, the Queen too. The
+Archbishop on first coming to his church and when carried out to his
+burial passes under this portal. The King and Queen, led by the
+Archbishop, now walked up the nave, chanting _Te Deum laudamus_, and
+before leaving they went to kneel in the Royal Chapel where, before the
+High Altar, lies King Ferdinand the Saint who conquered Seville in 1248,
+after five hundred years of Moorish rule. Here on November 23d,
+anniversary of his entrance to the city, a Military Mass is said, and
+the colors are lowered as the garrison files past. To a Sevillian that
+day of 1248 is as alive as the Battle of Lexington to a New Englander.
+
+This being a first visit, some brisk sightseeing was done. They
+automobiled out to Italica to see the Roman amphitheater there; and the
+day after her arrival Doña Victoria redeemed the good-will of the
+Sevillians by driving, in black mantilla, to visit a church in a poor
+part of the city where is an altar to Our Lady of Hope, dear to
+expectant mothers. In the Lonja, where the Indian archives are kept, Don
+Alfonso pored over the maps of Mexico and the autographs of Cortés and
+Pizarro; in the _Museo_, the Queen again touched the sentiment of the
+Spanish women by preferring Murillo's realistic "Adoration of the
+Shepherds." The Duke of Medinaceli got up some splendid provincial
+dances and tableaux in his Mudéjar _Casa de Pilatos_, one of the show
+places of the town. We happened to meet the pretty peasant girls who had
+taken part returning home, singing and waving to the crowd, like birds
+of paradise, in their rose and lemon silk shawls. There seemed to be a
+congenial companionship between the young royal people. They were at
+ease together. The King, extremely fragile-looking, has a thin Hapsburg
+face so eminently sympathetic that sometimes when he would give an
+affectionate grin at his applauding subjects he made one rather wish to
+be a Spaniard one's self. With the irresistible impulses of youth he
+would sally out from the Alcázar to explore the city on foot, like any
+other happy, free mortal, but sooner or later the cry "_El Rey!_" would
+gather a crowd and force him back to his state. One day he had to jump
+into a fiacre to escape the crush, and it was very jolly to see the
+descendant of the severe Philip II, of the inflated, pompous Bourbons,
+dashing through Seville, laughing at the good sport. We often met him
+riding back from Toblada in the late afternoon from polo, and it
+certainly appeared as if the affection of his countrymen went with him.
+I should say few kings are loved as is young Alfonso XIII, and Seville
+especially prides herself on being _muy leal_. Did not Alfonso _el
+Sabio_ (tenth of the name, as this Alfonso is the thirteenth) give the
+city the famous _nodo_, seen everywhere as the town crest, for just this
+trait of loyalty six centuries ago? So several times a day an eager
+crowd gathered to watch the King pass, or to cheer for the rosy little
+Prince of Asturias who drove out with his titled governess and two
+nurses,--one of severe English propriety, the other a romantic Spanish
+peasant--behind four big mules decked with Andalusian red trappings and
+bells. A whole series of fêtes were preparing when the tragic
+assassination of the King of Portugal and his eldest son at Lisbon put a
+stop to the rejoicing. The sensation in Seville was enormous, as the
+Portuguese Queen had brought her two sons the year before to follow the
+services of Holy Week here, and her mother, the Countess of Paris,
+lives in an estate near the city. Don Alfonso had just gone for a week's
+big-game hunting to the Granada mountains, when he hurried back to take
+part in the funeral service held in Madrid at the same hour as that in
+Lisbon. On his return to Seville his changed appearance showed what a
+shock the tragedy had been; not relationship alone but friendship united
+him to Portugal.
+
+Before the Royal visit ended there was a grand review of the troops in
+the park, where Don Alfonso wore a new uniform, that of the Hussars of
+Pavia, in commemoration of the great victory of Charles V in Italy four
+centuries before. Audience was given the envoys from the new King of
+Sweden in the Ambassador's hall of the Alcázar, which it was said had
+not been so used since Isabella's day. A mild form of carnival was
+followed by Ash Wednesday, when the King and Queen and court attended
+the services in the _Capilla Real_ of the Cathedral, before St.
+Ferdinand's silver tomb. As they passed out between the dense mass of
+people, my heart sprang to my mouth when I saw a man struggling to reach
+the King,--fortunately only a humble petitioner, but the Lisbon
+assassinations had filled everyone with terror. The royal visit over,
+came Holy Week, but that and the dancing of the _seises_ merit some
+pages to themselves.
+
+
+
+
+A CHURCH FEAST IN SEVILLE
+
+     "I have loved, O Lord, the beauty of thy house; and the place where
+     thy glory dwelleth."--PSALMS XXV, 8.
+
+    "When after many conquerors came Christ
+     The only conqueror of Spain indeed,
+     Not Bethlehem nor Golgotha sufficed
+     To show him forth, but every shrine must bleed,
+     And every shepherd in his watches heed
+     The angels' matins sung at heaven's gate.
+     Nor seemed the Virgin Mary wholly freed
+     From taint of ill if born in frail estate,
+     But shone the seraph's queen and soar'd immaculate."
+
+    GEORGE SANTAYANA.
+
+
+The eighth of December is a great day in Spain, but more especially in
+Seville where they look on the Immaculate Conception as their special
+feast, symbolized, hundreds of years before the dogma was defined, by
+their fellow townsman Murillo, in the seraphic purity of his
+_Concepción_. The celebration began on the day preceding the eighth with
+an early-morning peal of bells that lasted half an hour, and was
+frequently repeated during the day. Nothing can express the mad,
+exultant peal of Spanish bells: one strong metallic dong backward and
+forward,--or rather over and over, for the bells are balanced with
+weights and make the complete circle when in motion,--with a running
+carillon of more musical minor notes. We mounted to a roof terrace to
+watch the ringers in the Giralda, who in reckless enjoyment, let the
+rope of the revolving bell toss them aloft, a perilous feat that has led
+to fatal accidents, but high up in that Moorish tower, above the palm
+and orange-growing city, a triumphant tumult filling the air, it must be
+easy to lose one's balance of common-sense.
+
+Toward evening of the _Víspera de la Pureza_, every one placed lights
+along the balconies, which were draped with blue and white, those of the
+Archbishop's palace, under the Giralda, being hung in red and yellow,
+the national colors. A military band played in one of the smaller
+plazas, and the Seville girls flocked out in full enjoyment, each with
+the customary rose or bright ribbon in her hair. The people of the upper
+classes entertained their friends in open booths around the square.
+
+Then on the eighth itself, the bells fairly out-did themselves in
+tumultuous clamor, calling all to the Cathedral, that haunting soul of
+the city, _La Grandeza_, the noble, the solemn, its special title.
+Sevillians love to boast that it is bigger than St. Peters in Rome and
+cite its 15,642 square meters of ground area to St. Peter's 15,160. It
+is truly one of the most imposing churches in the world; vast and dim,
+the lofty Gothic piers make double aisles as they rise in springing
+arches to the roof. I have seen tourists enter laughing and chatting,
+but before they take ten steps instinctively their voices are lowered
+and they walk reverently with half-bowed heads. This serious temple to
+God is worthy of the men of big ideas who decided "to construct a church
+such and so good it never should have its equal," to accomplish which
+vow the canons sacrificed their personal revenues, and for a century the
+Cathedral Chapter ate in common.[30]
+
+December eighth I was in place early, in time to see each lady carry in
+her own folding chair and set it up in the matted space between the
+altar and choir: surely it is in church that the Spanish woman is at her
+best, in her severe black gown, with her veil draped over a high hair
+comb and gathered gracefully about the shoulders and waist. When she
+kneels she makes a sign of the cross, which has national additions.
+After the usual sign from forehead to breast, left shoulder to right,
+she carries her thumb crossed over her first finger to her lips. I am
+told this is a token of fidelity to the faith of the cross, and is
+often a way by which Spaniards recognize their countrymen in foreign
+countries. And since Seville out-does Spain in most customs, here are
+still other additions. They precede the sign of the cross by making a
+small cross on the forehead, lips, and breast; and there are many who
+even precede _this_ by a first regular sign of the cross, thus making
+two signs of the cross with the gospel symbol between. All this is done
+so rapidly that it takes several days of close observation to decipher
+it.
+
+Gradually the church filled for the great feast, until a solid mass of
+people knelt or stood in the transepts, covering every foot from which
+the High Altar could be seen; there was no crowding or impatience, for
+this was not for them a show, but their daily place of prayer. The
+onlooking tourist too often forgets this vital difference. In most cases
+he is ignorant of the meaning of church ritual; mental prayer,
+meditation on the feast celebrated, the unspeakable spirituality of the
+Mass are undivined by him; it is curiosity or æsthetic pleasure that
+usually brings him there. As I thought later during the Holy Week, it
+must be a soul weariness to sit during long hours, through ceremonies
+one cannot follow intelligently. On this festival, first there was a
+procession round the church to bless the various altars dedicated to
+the Blessed Virgin ("For behold, from henceforth all generations shall
+call me blessed. For He that is mighty hath done to me great things."
+St. Luke i, 48-49). Over the first altar visited hung Luis de Vargas'
+celebrated picture of Adam and Eve, the _Generación_, painted in the
+sixteen century to symbolize to-day's doctrine. Before the procession
+walked officers in uniform, then groups of acolytes, bearing antique
+silver crosses and the six-foot silver poles that end in handsome candle
+shrines. Seville gentlemen in dress suits followed, and then the
+Archbishop in cope and miter, with canons, beneficiaries, and choristers
+in vestments rich in gold and embroidery. The long imposing train passed
+slowly round the outer aisle. To those who remained before the altar,
+the chanting of the procession came but faintly, so colossal is the
+church, though like all well-proportioned things it is only from effects
+such as this that one realizes its size. The solemn High Mass proceeded,
+now the deep magnificently male voice of the organs, now the delicate
+stringed instruments, with human voices, for the Spaniard fearlessly
+follows his impulses of worship and presses every talent into the
+service of the altar. Twenty laymen were grouped in the _coro_ about a
+priest who led with his baton, and beside them stood the chorister lads
+who were to dance that afternoon before the tabernacle, as David once
+danced before the Ark of the Covenant. Their mediæval dress, a
+singularly pleasing Russian blouse of blue and white, with white
+breeches and slippers, was worn with so unconscious a grace that they
+were a charming sight as they sang in clear childish treble.
+
+The altar, one blaze of light, was approached by twelve steps, up and
+down which the bishop and canons swept in their gorgeous robes. Below
+the steps stood twelve silver candlesticks higher than a man, and close
+by were displayed the priceless flagons and trays used on high feasts.
+Every accessory of Seville's Cathedral is on a vast scale; the _retablo_
+of carved scenes towers to a hundred feet; the gilded _rejas_, wrought
+by the monk of Salamanca in the same disregard for man's limitations in
+which the whole Cathedral was built, and whose dark fretwork enhances
+the brilliant scenes they enclose, all tell of an age of ardent faith
+when men gave of their best.
+
+[Illustration: LOS SEISES, CATHEDRAL OF SEVILLE]
+
+The service over, the Archbishop passed to the sacristy which for this
+day was thrown open to the people, and they thronged in to kiss the
+episcopal ring, and to gaze at the Murillos and other masters. Then his
+vestments laid aside, the prelate, accompanied by a dense crowd, crossed
+the square to his palace, but before leaving the church, he paused by
+the chapel of Gonsalvo Núñez de Sepúlveda, who in 1654 left a fortune to
+the Cathedral that this Octave of the Immaculate Conception should be
+fitly celebrated. Even after the three-hour service some people lingered
+in the side chapels, and the choristers, in their picturesque costume,
+gathered in the _capilla mayor_ of the partly deserted church to
+continue their songs of praise: not for outer effect alone had these
+hymns been taught them, but to glorify One unseen but all-seeing. The
+spirit of inner worship was not lost in its outward symbolization.
+
+During the Octave, the Blessed Sacrament was exposed, and unceasing were
+the offices of praise and song. In the late afternoon of each day came
+the dance of _los seises_ before the Altar, perhaps one of the most
+poetic customs remaining in Christendom. The Archbishop, in red robes,
+again entered the chancel surrounded by the canons, and they all knelt,
+some here, some there, in unconsciously artistic groups,--the strong
+firm profiles like those of the donors in Italian pictures. Some knelt
+in meditation, others affectionately watched the dance of the lads; they
+too, as boys, may have been choristers. It is more a quiet rhythmic
+stepping to music than a dance, and all the while they sing in their
+clear, high voices. Twice the music stopped, and for a few seconds the
+lads moved slowly to the sound of their own castanets. This unique
+custom commemorates the Christian's entry into the conquered Moslem town
+more than six hundred years ago, when the children are said to have
+danced and sung for joy. These twentieth century Christian lads, their
+part now over, passed up the steps of the altar into a small sacristy
+behind it; and the musicians continued a lovely concert of sacred music,
+a last half hour of peace and prayer that seemed like the benediction of
+the great darkened church on the bowed groups of worshipers.
+
+I came away from the Cathedral every evening with the feeling that there
+are many and various ways of praising God. Yet so much criticism has
+this Seville custom roused, that, a few hundred years ago, the Pope
+ordered its discontinuance, allowing the dance to go on only as long as
+the costumes then in use should last, but the people, who love their old
+usages, succeeded in evading the decision by successive patching of the
+suits. This is the story. Certainly the graceful costumes to-day show no
+tatters, and they are worn so carelessly that they make no suggestion of
+masquerade. For the many who crave a quieter form of worship, the grave
+cathedral services of Northern Spain may be more congenial, but when as
+many desire magnificence and display, why should not they too be
+satisfied? The church allows for all tastes and temperaments, knowing
+man is not cast in one mold. The Puritan in her midst does not have to
+turn Dissenter; she has her Salvation Army--so I call the
+pilgrimage-going crowds; the ascetic fulfils the hard law of his nature
+side by side with the enjoyer of human affections and graces. Seville's
+feast, rich with old traditions, is appropriate in this southern city.
+To linger each evening in the vast church lighted only by solitary
+candles against each pier, to wander behind the kneeling groups
+listening to the soaring voices of man and violin, to pause beside a
+certain tomb in the south transept where four mammoth figures of bronze,
+ungainly on close view but in a half light majestic, bear on their
+shoulders a bier which holds the remains of Cristóbal Colón,--such hours
+of loitering quicken the imagination and leave behind them memories of
+beauty.
+
+
+
+
+HOLY WEEK IN SEVILLE
+
+     "A time to weep, and a time to laugh. A time to mourn, and a time
+     to dance."
+
+     ECCLES. iii, 4.
+
+
+An overcrowded picture rises with the thought of Seville's _Semana
+Santa_,--glittering lights, statues laden with jewels, weird masked
+figures in _nazareno_ costume marching to the sound of funeral dirges,
+cries of street vendors and children,--all is noise, movement, color, a
+true Andalusian scene. Spectacular effect is the first impression of the
+week, a gorgeous pageantry that suits the Sevillian's temperament but is
+not so congenial perhaps to the northerner, who would have the
+commemoration of his religion's solemn hour a more tranquil time of
+prayer.
+
+Happily there are other memories carried away as well as this chief one
+of noisy confusion. Never to be forgotten was the Cathedral echoing at
+midnight to the sound of Eslava's "Miserere" sung by hundreds of trained
+voices. Every inch of the vast church was packed. Men and women stood in
+silence, with upraised faces, as they listened to the music of the old
+canon who once sat in this choir. The lightest mocker would be awed to
+silence under those soaring arches. For majesty, for a contagious
+religious emotion, the Cathedral of Seville at the time of its feasts is
+only to be rivaled by Santa Sophia during Ramazan, on that memorable
+Night of Power when eight thousand Mussulmans kneel prostrate under the
+floating circles of lamps. These two stand supreme; so different in the
+setting,--the one rich with color, an open blaze of light beneath the
+wide Byzantine dome, the other dim, mysterious Gothic,--they are alike
+in the genuine thrill of worship they give the onlooker of every creed.
+
+Familiar with her Cathedral in its every-day aspect, having seen the
+celebrations of December 8th, the Christmas Midnight Mass, Epiphany, Ash
+Wednesday, it was cruel to find its grand tranquillity violated during
+the Holy Week. It is the processions, called the _pasos_, that are the
+cause of the disorder. A _paso_ is a huge platform, on which are placed
+carved statues representing scenes of the Passion. Each float is carried
+by some thirty men, and its weight must be enormous, for besides the
+statues there are silver candelabra, gold and silver vases, and usually
+a canopy of embroidered velvet upheld by silver poles. Could one but
+look on them as mere spectacular shows, they would be most picturesque
+pageants, but to dissociate them from religion is impossible. The custom
+is an ancient one and is still prevalent in many towns of Spain,
+through happily, in the smaller places, its original purpose to edify
+and rouse the people to rememberance of the holy season, has not been
+lost sight of in extravagant display as at Seville.
+
+Each of Seville's numerous parishes has one or two of these _pasos_, and
+an unworthy rivalry exists between them as to which will make the best
+show. They are supposed to be scenes of the Passion, such as the
+Flagellation, Christ before Pilate, the Descent from the Cross, but for
+the most part they consist of single figures--a Crucifixion followed by
+a _Nuestra Señora de Dolores_, another Crucifixion followed by another
+single representation of Our Lady, and so on in monotonous sequence, a
+repetition that makes the spectator fix his attention, not on the scene
+represented but on details such as the embroidery of the robes, the
+display of rare jewels, the elaborate canopy. The _pasos_ struck me as
+the result of that regrettable tendency in Spain, the accentuated
+devotion to a special shrine or statue. No doubt it arose in reaction
+against the Moorish enemy's hatred of images, but the patriotic tendency
+has been carried too far. It will ever misrepresent the Spaniard's
+innate Christian belief. As these processions blocked the city streets,
+one heard on every side, not alone from those of differing creed,
+exclamations of "Pomp! Show! Childishness!" And the criticism was
+almost justified. Many strangers leave Seville confirmed in the wrong
+idea that its religion is an affair of tinsel and lights. Spain cares
+little what outsiders think of her, but here is a case in which she
+should consider the discredit that a degenerated custom brings on her
+religion; she should sacrifice an old tradition. Like the processions of
+Havana, the _pasos_ should go. The northern Spaniard agrees with the
+stranger in his dislike of the noisy spectacles that so incongruously
+commemorate the saddest death-scene of the ages, and there are many
+Andalusians, too, who wish for their abolition. In fact, it is the
+rabble and the innkeepers who agitate in their favor; these last keep
+petitions for their foreign guests to sign, begging that the processions
+be continued. Seville need not fear she will lose prestige should she
+drop them, that the tourists will no longer flock to her each spring;
+she is only beginning to be known for having a winter climate surpassing
+that of Rome and Naples; _pasos_ or not, visitors will inevitably
+increase.
+
+The objectionable processions began to march late in the afternoon of
+Palm Sunday, and it is hardly much of an exaggeration to say they went
+on marching night and day throughout the following week. They were so
+long that they took five or six hours to pass a given spot. Starting
+back in the narrow streets of the town, they passed down the _Sierpes_
+which was lined with spectators' chairs, defiled before the City Hall,
+where the Mayor rose to salute each _paso_ in turn, then went on to the
+Cathedral,--entering by a west door, crossing before the altar, and
+leaving by the door near the Archbishop's palace. With each _paso_
+marched the religious confraternity of its parish, a secular brotherhood
+of men belonging to all ranks, who are banded together for charitable
+work. The King belongs to one of these fraternities and when in Seville
+marches in line, but the year of our visit he was represented by the
+military governor of the province. The officers of the army also
+marched. Most of these brotherhoods wore Nazarene costume, in white,
+purple, or black, with the high-peaked head gear through which only the
+eyes showed. Some walked devoutly, others in disorder. Membership in
+religious brotherhoods is often hereditary, and it was touching to see a
+little child of four, in full regalia, marching with the grown men,
+planting his silver staff at each slow pace with the gravity of a
+majordomo. A band of music went with each fraternity, and the blare of
+brass instruments, the torches, the masked faces, make indeed a
+confused, wearying spectacle.
+
+Most of the onlookers hired chairs for the week along the streets, on
+balconies, or in that most chosen spot, the square by the City Hall; the
+populace thronged to the Cathedral, where the procession could be seen
+free, and there the crowd was dense to suffocation, chiefly made up of
+the disorderly element from Triana. The chatter and movement made me
+ask, could this be a Spanish church, where irreverence is unknown?
+Everyone seemed oblivious of the Tenebræ in the _coro_. They buzzed and
+moved about in an unseemly scramble for seats, so that only faintest
+echoes of Jeremiah's gloriously intoned Lamentations could be heard. The
+sexton rose now and then from the noisy groups on the choir steps to
+extinguish one by one the candles on the big triangular candlestick, a
+noble object of bronze used only at this season. And I had looked
+forward for months to hearing, in this grand Gothic Cathedral, my
+favorite service of the church year, the solitary service that haunts
+one with its subtle beauty from one's childhood. The disappointment was
+keen, it gave just the final touch to my dislike of the _pasos_.
+
+There were times when I tried to be just. Seeing the men lift their hats
+respectfully as each group went by, the women cross themselves with
+tears in their eyes, the babies look on in awed wonder, I tried to drop
+prejudice and to see the spectacle as does a southern Spaniard: the
+noisy scene is so associated with his earliest, tenderest memories that
+he cannot but look at it in a different way. One evening near me, a
+handsome young countryman,--moved out of all self-consciousness by the
+_Virgen santísima_ he so loved, in her wonderful robe and jewels, under
+a canopy richer than any earthly queen's,--this gallant young _majo_
+stood forward suddenly from the crowd and, with his eyes fastened on the
+glittering mass, sang a _copla_ of praise with the heart-piercing note
+of the folk-song. So faultlessly artistic a moment made me look
+leniently on the _pasos_ for a time, warning me, "Lest while ye gather
+up the tares, ye root up also the wheat with them." But to be consistent
+in this home of untamed personalities is impossible! For soon a float of
+extravagant bad taste would go by; horses with tails of real hair;
+clumsy velvet robes hiding the excellent carving of the statues (and
+some of them are the work of the best sculptor of Seville, Montañés,
+whose portrait by Velasquez hangs in the Prado); worst of all the _Mater
+Dolorosa_, covered with inappropriate jewels, some willed her by former
+generations, others lent by rich Sevillian ladies of to-day, in her hand
+the lace handkerchief of a coquette: criticism would leap to full life
+again.
+
+That the _pasos_ violated the quiet of the Cathedral, that they reeked
+of the baroque period of bad art, these are not the only complaints
+against them. They turn all Seville into a picnic week. We began to ask
+ourselves if this noisy excitement commemorated a solemn time, what
+would the following week of the Fair be like? The Andalusian can hold
+revelry with zest and vigor for fourteen unbroken days. Easter week was
+to open with the Italian opera and the first bull-fight of the year;
+there were to be three days of horse and cattle show, followed by three
+days of the grand _Feria_, when the whole province pours into Seville,
+and the nights are one glare of fireworks; _maja_ and _majo_ are then
+out in all their finery, and the families of the upper classes live in
+open booths on the fair grounds, where they pay visits and dance the
+national dances in public with the easy democracy of true Spaniards.
+Much as we hoped to see this typical feast, it began to dawn on us early
+in the week that there were limits to endurance. The hurrying crowds,
+the blocking of the streets, the noise of vendors, of clashing music,
+made the fatigue indescribable. Sleep at night was out of the question,
+noisy Triana roamed the streets; brass bands would sound, and in nervous
+excitement one would spring to the balcony. The hotels were packed to an
+uncomfortable extent. By Good Friday all desire to stay over for the
+Fair week was extinguished; we were very close to physical collapse.
+So, taking a night train, we slipped away from the turmoil to have a
+peaceful Easter Sunday in unspoiled Estremadura. There also they were
+having _pasos_, but _pasos_ of such simple devotion, humble, and
+primitive, that one knelt with the crowd in prayer as they passed.
+
+Before this final, hasty desertion, however, I had dragged myself, worn
+out with a sleepless night, to the lengthy services in the Cathedral
+each morning. There, happily, was nothing to criticise. The Holy Week
+ceremonies customary to all Catholic Christendom, were carried through
+with dignity; only, since this was irrepressible Spain, there were some
+local additions, and most beautiful ones. Such was the waving of a huge
+flag, black, with a large red cross, like the banner of some military
+order, before the High Altar, while some special prayers were read; love
+of country and love of God seem so inextricably interwoven here. On Palm
+Sunday the Cathedral was filled with the stately white leaves, six and
+ten feet long, from the palm forest of Elche; each canon carried one and
+each verger; the priests and acolytes who served the Mass bore each his
+palm, and they waved and swayed around the altar in lovely symbolization
+of the Entry into Jerusalem twenty centuries before. Pictures like that
+never fade. A year later in Palestine, it rose vividly before me, while
+driving out to Bethany, when we passed some hundreds of humble Russian
+pilgrims tramping back from the Dead Sea, each of whom bore a palm. For
+in very reality they were following the route of entry into the Holy
+City. Seville Cathedral on Palm Sunday morning was not unworthy to be
+grouped with that moving scene. The excessively long Gospel was chanted
+in the customary different keys by three canons, one standing in the
+Epistle pulpit, one in the Gospel, and the third on a rostrum erected
+between the two. Near me several Spaniards of the artisan class followed
+in Latin every word of the lengthy chanting. The tourists present who
+knew not what was read, fretted and moved incessantly. No intelligent
+person should attend a Holy Week in either Seville or Rome without a
+special book, picked up anywhere for a couple of francs, in which the
+services are given in Latin and English, or Latin and French. Without
+the liturgy to voice these ceremonies, they must be weary hours indeed.
+And yet of the hundreds of visitors on this Palm Sunday, literally, not
+one followed with a book, and many perhaps held themselves competent to
+criticise what they had seen.
+
+Expectant of the sensational, the tourists filled the great church on
+Holy Thursday morning, when the white veil was withdrawn: it was done
+so swiftly, at the opportune words of the Gospel, that there was nothing
+spectacular about it. Two days later, at the moment in the Mass when
+every bell in the city bursts out in joyous acclamation of the
+Resurrection, the black veil was rent; that we missed seeing. Some days
+before Holy Week a towering temple of wood, white and gilt, a hundred
+feet high, had been erected in the nave over the tomb of Columbus' son.
+This pseudo-classic temple, completely out of touch with the Gothic
+church, was to serve as the repository of the Blessed Sacrament on Holy
+Thursday, and it was for the center of such shrines that the old
+silversmiths of Spain, the de Arfe family, made their priceless silver
+_monumentos_. Such repositories are customary in all Catholic lands on
+Thursday of Holy Week, for in the midst of sorrow, the Church celebrates
+the foundation of the Sacrament that has brought joy and solace to
+mankind. She commemorates the events of the week chronologically. Before
+the altars are dismantled for Good Friday, she typifies by lights and
+flowers, her gratitude for that passover supper in the upper room. It is
+a general Catholic custom to visit a number of these lighted shrines on
+Holy Thursday, and in Seville this usage leads to one of the charming
+things of the week, like an oasis of peace in the midst of the arid
+_pasos_. Everyone pays these visits on foot. During two days not a
+carriage is allowed in the city, the King himself must walk. Their silk
+mantillas, black or white, draped high over their combs, wearing jewels
+and carrying flowers, the ladies of Seville went from church to church,
+to kneel in graceful groups around the exposed Host, and the men in
+frock coats and high hats stood in the rear, in simple attitudes of
+prayer: the Spaniard and the Mussulman are alike in their
+unconsciousness at their devotions. The next day all would wear deep
+mourning, but to-day is a feast of rejoicing. Each one goes in quiet
+composure, as if her mind dwelt on the hours of peace her communions had
+brought her. Again I felt the same impression that the Christmas
+midnight Mass had given me; that the imagination of this people was busy
+with the past event they were celebrating. Does not lack of
+comprehension of old usages often mean lack of the shaping power of the
+imagination?
+
+From one parish church to another I followed these fascinating women.
+Here was true Seville, not seen in the Cathedral's tourist crowd, nor
+under Parisian hats on the _Paseo_. Wandering through the network of
+streets north of the _Sierpes_, I paused to look into the spotless
+patios distant as they ever seem from the fret of life. A touch of
+summer was in the air; the marble courtyards were decked with flowers,
+and one heard the notes of singing birds. Two dark-eyed ladies came out
+from a tranquil patio; they wore white mantillas in honor of their
+visits to the Blessed Sacrament. They set me dreaming of Seville in its
+summer aspect, when the skies are blue in the fragrant night. Nowhere on
+earth are women more alluring and essentially feminine, nowhere has man
+fashioned his house so fitly for charm and romance.
+
+By chance, on Holy Thursday, I stumbled on another local usage, full of
+the same racial flavor. Returning from the Cathedral, where, amid a
+throng of sight seers, the Archbishop had carried the Host to the
+lighted _monumento_, I happened to drop into the Church of the
+Magdalena. It was filled with its own parishioners, since most Spaniards
+leave the Cathedral services of this crowded week to the visitors. Near
+the door were seated three separate groups of ladies and young girls,
+belonging unmistakably to the aristocracy; each wore a black
+mantilla,[31] and in their tight-fitting black gowns and long white
+gloves, they were indescribably elegant. They were the ladies in waiting
+of the various altars, their duties to tend them, and like the men's
+brotherhoods, to help in the charitable work of the parish. The
+Magdalena Church is dark, so on the table before these daughters of Eve
+stood a pair of high candlesticks, between which lay an open tray
+soliciting contributions for their special shrines or charities. Young
+beaux entered the church and as they passed the table, dropped a _duro_
+or a paper bill in the different trays, according as they felt devotion
+to such and such an altar, or to judge by the glances that passed
+between the givers and receivers, as they felt devotion to its fair
+caretaker. Unexpected scenes like this, unmentioned in the guide books,
+give to this city its allurement, enhanced doubly because the actors are
+so unconscious of their picturesqueness.
+
+And as unpleasant things fade away, leaving only the happier memories,
+two scenes stand out unforgettable in Seville's Holy Week: Eslava's
+"Miserere," echoing at midnight through the Cathedral whose name is
+fittingly the _Grandeza_, and that other picture, enchantingly
+Andalusian, the ladies in mantillas paying their silent visits to the
+Blessed Sacrament on Holy Thursday. The _pasos_ fade to a blurred
+background of pomp and glitter.
+
+
+
+
+CADIZ
+
+    "Para que yo te olvidará
+     Era menester que hubiera
+     Otro mundo, y otro cielo,
+     Y otro Dios que dispusiera."
+
+    CANTAR ANDALUZ.
+
+  --"The sea tides tossing free,
+     And Spanish sailors with bearded lips,
+     And the witchery and beauty of the ships,
+     And the magic of the sea."
+
+    H. W. LONGFELLOW.
+
+
+In the midst of the warm Seville winter the thought of sea breezes
+tempted us to Cadiz for a week. The hundred miles' run down there was
+through a charming corner of Andalusia, with orange groves, olive
+plantations, woods of stone pines, hedges of cactus, in the meadows
+herds of most royal bulls. It was the eighteenth of January, yet the
+fruit trees were in blossom, and over the streams floated a lovely
+white-flowering verdure. We passed Jerez, source of English sherry,
+where on our return to Seville we stopped some hours to see the bodegas
+and sample the native wine. As we neared the coast big pyramids of salt
+covered the marshes, telling of another industry; in fact, every part
+of Andalusia which I saw was well cultivated, despite the guide book
+laments over its backwardness.
+
+Soon came whiffs of the sea air. The first view of Cadiz, set right out
+to sea, is very striking. Only a narrow strip of sand, eight miles long,
+connects it with the mainland, and as we skirted the coast, past San
+Fernando,--where there is a naval station and an astronomical
+observatory,--the compact, sturdy little city out in the Atlantic made a
+stunning picture; the sea so very blue, the town so dazzlingly white.
+
+And inside the treble line of walls and moats that defend its one
+land-entrance, the "silver dish," as its citizens love to call it, has
+as individual a character as its distant prospect. It is miraculously
+clean, its streets seem swept and scrubbed like a Dutch village. Down
+these narrow lanes you catch the gleam of the sea to east, to north, to
+west. When it rains, Seville turns into a muddy distress, but
+well-drained Cadiz grows more proper still in wet weather. The patio of
+the rest of Andalusia is not found here, for being confined to its ledge
+of shells, the town could not spread itself about, but had to build
+itself up in the air. On top of the high houses, whose vivid green
+balconies add to the general air of trig neatness, are _miradores_,
+small towers formerly built by the merchants as look-outs from which
+they could spy their returning galleons. The view of Cadiz from a
+_mirador_ is like nothing else ever seen: the clean whiteness of
+hundreds of roof terraces, the church towers of colored tiles and a host
+of other _miradores_, made it seem like a second city in itself,
+suggestive of the Orient; a strange city set in the blinding blue circle
+of the ocean.
+
+The town is almost surrounded by high sea walls, four miles of them, and
+on the Atlantic side the surf breaks in thundering eternity, throwing up
+spray twenty feet high. There is something splendidly plucky about
+Cadiz. One of the few spots in Europe forced to battle for her
+existence, with a devouring enemy at her door, she thrives and continues
+century after century. She is the oldest town in Spain, founded by
+Ph[oe]nician mariners more than a thousand years before the Christian
+Era.
+
+    "Ah when the crafty Tyrian came to Spain
+     To barter for her gold his motley wares,
+     Treading her beaches he forgot his gain,
+     The Semite became noble unawares."
+
+Spain has influenced them all, all the strangers, the heterogeneous
+throng, that have gone to the making of the Spanish race. Ph[oe]nician,
+Roman, Iberian, Goth, Jew, and Moor, she has imprinted on them all her
+own distinguishing mark, has breathed into them her own intense soul.
+For this psychological reason it is true to say that Seneca was a
+Spaniard, that the wonderful Jew Maimonides and the Moor Averroës, and
+the Gothic bishop, Isidoro, Doctor of the Church were all of them
+Spaniards. The Catalan, Ramón Lull rang out the national note with no
+uncertain sound, mystic hermit and active missionary. And with the
+centuries "christened in blood and schooled in sacrifice," the spirit
+grew more convincingly apparent: Domingo de Guzmán, Francisco Ximenez,
+Gonsalvo de Córdova, Luis de León, Iñigo de Loyola are very brothers
+with a like high fealty that tells what majestic mother nurtured them on
+her battlefield of ages.
+
+Cadiz, the oldest spot in Spain, has known each of the conquering races
+in turn. She was four hundred years old when Rome was founded. She has
+had tremendous ups and downs of fortune; at her height during the age of
+the Cæsars, who saw her importance as key to Andalusia, then with the
+fall of Rome dropped into insignificance, her name almost forgotten. She
+rose again with the discovery of the New World, whose ships of treasure
+anchored off her ramparts. A strange outlook on the passing of power
+lies in the statement that in 1770 this town was a wealthier place than
+London. With the loss of the Colonies, Cadiz has sunk back to be a
+mediocre city in the world, but she is contented and self-respecting.
+
+Though so remotely ancient, there is nothing of old architecture here.
+The ramparts have been turned into esplanades, where it is a joy to
+walk, for the views are beautiful past description; now across the bay
+to the mainland and the mountains of Ronda, and down on the quay of the
+town itself with its bay full of fishing boats; then to the north the
+eye seeks farther along the coast toward Palos whence three caravels,
+the Pinta, the Niña and the Santa María turned westward on a memorable
+third of August, 1492. On the other side of Cadiz is the ocean itself
+and I hope the enterprising town will some day carry the park along this
+western wall, where the rollers break so magnificently. Just past the
+public gardens, a narrow causeway leads to the lighthouse of San
+Sebastián, set well out to sea, a favorite walk for us at sunset time to
+watch the fishing boats with their high prows come sailing back to the
+harbor each evening. The sunsets we saw in Cadiz were flaming pink and
+gold and red like those of the world on the other side of the Atlantic;
+also we saw a sunrise exquisite as a dream. It was here the ancients
+first met the suggestive wonder of the open ocean, and their
+philosophers pondered over the phenomenon of the tides. They thought
+that subterranean animals or winds sucked them in; and the sun, they
+said, when it had sunk in the western ocean, returned to the east by
+subterranean passages,--guesses about as wise as some that we are making
+to-day on phenomena of the soul.
+
+I do not know if it was just chance good fortune, but Cadiz will always
+be an exhilarating memory. Its air was so bracing, balmy yet full of
+vitality. The moral atmosphere seemed joyous and contented; a
+hurdy-gurdy would strike up below in the street with the bang of a
+tambourine, and from all the windows near, pennies would gayly rattle
+down. The people were courteous without second thought. A working man
+walked out of his way for ten minutes to direct us through the
+complicated streets, and then ran off with a laugh to avoid the fee; a
+shopman straightened eye-glasses and genuinely refused to be paid for so
+small a service; wonder of wonders when our luggage got carried in the
+wrong hotel diligence, the landlord refused to let us pay. Three such
+episodes of disinterestedness in one morning give one a pleasant
+impression of a place; and this town has presented itself to other
+travelers as happily. Byron, to whom this "renowned romantic land" as he
+called her, was eminently sympathetic, wrote to his mother, in 1809,
+"Cadiz, sweet Cadiz! it is the first spot in the creation. The beauty of
+its streets and mansions are only excelled by the loveliness of its
+inhabitants, the finest women in Spain."
+
+Cadiz is enough of a place, with a bishopric and a garrison, to have the
+air of a capital; we noticed many men of the best hidalgo type, like
+those who stand behind Spínola in the "Surrender of Breda." In the park
+was an outdoor theater; children played _diavolo_; and nice little
+Spanish girls walked up and down with their English governesses. One
+could write or sew outdoors without exciting a glance of surprise. We
+used to spend hours under the palm trees of the _Alameda_ sewing and
+reading and watching the groups about us, for in spite of its being
+mid-winter, the air was warm enough for spending the day out-of-doors.
+Cleanliness and godliness: Cadiz can boast of excellent public
+institutions. The new hospital that faces the Atlantic breezes, and
+where only a fraction of a franc is paid daily, could well be envied by
+the rich of new world cities. Its poor house is noted, and it has a host
+of minor charities; a _Casa de Viudas_ for widows, a _Casa de Hermanos_,
+a _Casa de Locos_ for the insane, tended, as are the others, by alert,
+willing nuns. It is a public-spirited little city, with a school of
+music and art, an _Instituto_ whose physical laboratory is the best in
+Spain, two Public Libraries, for that of the Bishop is also open free to
+the people.
+
+The tourist sights here are soon seen; the Capuchin church where Murillo
+painted his last picture, and where he fell from the scaffold, soon
+after dying in Seville from the accident. There are two Cathedrals, one
+so sacked by English bucaneers that there is little to be seen, and the
+other a quite dreadful eighteenth century affair. The dull _Museo_ has
+some good modern works, a bishop's head in profile by García y Ramos
+that is first rate art; and there is a triptych by a very early painter,
+Gallegos, the Spanish Primitive, which to my mind is more religious than
+the Murillos and the Zurbarans. It is a _Pietà_, and the eyes of the
+mourners are naïvely red from weeping, like Francia's _Pietàs_ in Parma.
+
+Almost impregnable walls and moats shut off the isthmus that leads to
+the mainland, and their strength explains how Cadiz could have defied
+the French for two years during the War of Liberation, without suffering
+the horrors of the Gerona siege. The blockade began in 1808, soon after
+the heroic _Dos de Mayo_ in Madrid. Quintana's poem rang like a trumpet
+call over the land: "_¡Antes la muerte que consentir jamás ningún
+tirano!_" No idle boast! Spain was celebrating the centenary of the
+second of May during our visit, and the scenes were moving and
+patriotic. You realized Lord Peterborough's remark, that this was an
+unconquerable land if her people resisted the invader. Statues and
+tablets for the war heroes were unveiled, and songs and marches composed
+for the anniversary. The artillery officers organized a splendid parade
+of children that marched under the arch of Montleón, where Ruiz, and
+Velarde, and Daoiz fought, and there the King, holding the baby Prince
+of Asturias in his arms, showed him how to kiss his country's flag.
+Memorial Mass was said in the street outside the house where Velarde
+died, and toward evening one of the Madrid parishes marched out, its
+priests leading, to the cemetery where the _Dos de Mayo_ victims were
+buried, and deposited wreaths in patriotic reverence.
+
+Cadiz' old church, St. Philip Neri, is where the permanent endurance of
+the first outburst of patriotism in 1808 was made possible. Here the
+Cortes met again after three hundred years' suppression under the
+Hapsburgs and Bourbons, here they abolished the Inquisition, and here
+they drew up the Constitution of 1812, which was to be tossed backward
+and forward during the next half century of disorders, to emerge finally
+with victory.
+
+An eloquent priest was the first speaker to open the historic meeting,
+and as he laid down the program, the sovereignty of the nation to lie
+in the Cortes, and the King to exist for the people, not the people for
+the King as heretofore, Spain again had her foot on the ladder of
+progress. No wonder that the national military air of Spain is the
+_Marcha de Cádiz_. The clean, smokeless, plucky little city has right to
+a proud stand out in the Atlantic. Her age-long enemy, the ocean, had
+trained her well to strike a first blow for freedom.
+
+
+
+
+A FEW MODERN NOVELS
+
+     "Don Quixote is not, as Montesquieu pretended, the only good
+     Spanish book, which in reaction against the national spirit,
+     ridiculed the others. It is rather the epitome of our national
+     spirit, war-like and religious, full of sane realism and none the
+     less enthusiastic for all that is great and beautiful."--DON JUAN
+     VALERA.
+
+
+It was the German philosopher Hegel who called the "Romancero del Cid"
+the most nobly beautiful poem, ideal and real at the same time, that the
+Epic Muse had inspired since Homer. _Ideal and real at the same time_,
+herein lies the first characteristic of Spanish literature, of to-day as
+well as of the past. No keener realistic pictures of a nation were ever
+drawn than in "Quixote," yet no book was ever more idealistic; and the
+path plowed so deeply by Cervantes, has been followed by the modern
+novelists of Spain. Their feet are well planted on the ground, but they
+do not think it necessary to prove they walk the earth by wallowing in
+its mud. These modern Spanish romances tell of the passions and sorrows
+of virile men and women, and at the same time they can boast that they
+are free from the moral evil so rampart in French novels. "Quixote" is
+not exactly a prude's book, yet the "jeune fille" can read it
+unharmed and Cervantes has served in this point as a standard.[32]
+
+[Illustration: ST. FRANCIS OF ASSISI
+
+A wood-carving by Carmona, Museum of León]
+
+Few realize the delightful field of modern fiction that lies ready to be
+explored once enough Spanish has been mastered for reading. After three
+months' study only we found we could take up and enjoy "Don Quixote,"
+for contrary to the popular idea, its language is no more archaic than
+is the English of Hamlet or Henry IV; a great genius fixes the tongue in
+which he writes.
+
+The best of the novelists of this last half century, when the revival
+came about, are Valera and Pereda. Some would make a triology by placing
+Pérez Galdós side by side with them. For instance the historian
+Altamira, being in sympathy with the frankly revolutionary theories
+which Galdós advocates, calls him the first, the Balzac of Spain, but
+the Balzac of a people is never against the traditions of his race as
+Galdós often is. "_Toda comparación es odiosa_" the dear Don warns us.
+Personally I give the first place to Valera and Pereda, in whose work is
+found the note of literature; Pereda the strength of the northern
+mountains, Valera the allurement of the south. Happily for their
+permanence and their value as human documents, the Spanish writers are
+local. Each describes his own province, his own _paisanos_. Doña Emilia
+Pardo Bazán paints her Galicia; Alacón his Andalusia; Valdés and Pérez
+Galdós are more cosmopolitan and I should say lose by it; Blasco Ibáñez
+writes of Valencia, Leopoldo Alas has vivified the Asturias.
+
+The revival of the _novela de costumbres_, which suits the Spanish
+temperament, just as the romantic or fantastic tale suits the German,
+may be said to have been started by that talented Sevillian authoress
+who wrote under the name of Fernán Caballero. She had not the gift of a
+good style, and most of her books are already of the past, but in "La
+Gaviota," published in 1849, her passionate love for Spain and its ways
+has made a novel that is likely to endure. The tale tells of many old
+customs: how on the night of November 2d, the Brotherhood of the Rosary
+of the Dawn rises to pray for the souls in Purgatory, how one of the
+sodality goes from house to house to rouse the others, striking a bell
+and singing:
+
+    "I am at your door with a bell;
+     I do not call you; it does not call you;
+     'T is your mother, 't is your father who call you,
+     And they beg you to pray for them to God."
+
+And each member rises and follows the fraternity. A land does not lose
+that has such customs among its peasantry, that weaves in its religious
+belief with the inextricable souvenirs of home and childhood. A Spanish
+child is brought up on songs of the Passion and the Virgin as naturally
+as we on Mother Goose. When he sees a chimney-sweep he exclaims "_El Rey
+Melchor!_" for the visit of the Three Kings of the East is real to him.
+He knows the owl was present at the Crucifixion, whence his
+terror-stricken cry of "_Crux! Crux!_" that the kindly swallows relieved
+the Saviour of the thorns, and the gold-finches of the three agonizing
+nails:
+
+    "En el monte Calvario       En el monte Calvario
+     Las golondrinas            Los jilgueritos
+     Le quitaron á Cristo       Le quitaron á Cristo
+     Las cinco espinas.         Los tres clavitos."
+
+The serpent according to Spanish lore, went proudly erect after his
+success with Eve, until down in Egypt one day, he tried to bite the
+little Infant Jesus, whereupon St. Joseph indignantly rebuked him and
+ordered him never to rise again. The rosemary is loved and given away as
+presents because when formerly a common plant, once the Blessed Virgin
+hung out on it to dry the clothes of her divine Infant, and it became
+forever green and fragrant. The children at play sing these legends and
+folk-songs; on Christmas eve they dance their "Alegría! Alegría!
+Alegría!" A suggestive young writer of Granada, Angel Ganivet, says that
+in Spain Christian philosophy did not remain hidden in books, but worked
+its way into the very life of the people, where it is found in the
+popular songs and customs: "_Nuestra_ 'Summa' _teológica y filosófica
+está en nuestro 'Romancero_.'"
+
+Fernán Caballero started the revival of the novel and its flowering soon
+followed. Don Juan Valera, though always interested in literature, had
+been prevented by his active life from himself writing till middle age.
+When in 1874 "Pepita Jiménez" appeared, it took his countrymen by storm,
+and this first novel, written by chance, was soon followed by others; a
+true creative artist had tardily discovered his genius. I cannot speak
+of Don Juan Valera without an admiration which to those who do not know
+his works may seem extreme. From his books his personality stands out as
+clearly as that of Cervantes, equable, high-minded, with that mellow
+wisdom which has gleaned the best from a life full of opportunities. In
+his "Discursos Academicos," two volumes that make enchanting
+reading--enchanting and academical do not often go together--he
+disclaims the title of thinker, yet he was a profound observer. His
+satire is of that kindly quality that leaves no sting. He has charm,
+that salt of the writer; he is never exaggerated nor embittered. This
+quality of amenity he shares too with his master, whom he can write of
+with an absolute comprehension just as Cervantes himself could make a
+Quixote because he was akin. It was a happy chance that the last words
+of the modern novelist (over eighty and blind, yet alert in mental
+interests) should have been the unfinished paper for the Royal Academy,
+to celebrate in 1904 the three hundredth anniversary of "Don Quixote."
+His Spanish blood let Valera understand the heights of mysticism,
+skeptic though he was by force of circumstances; he could write with
+enthusiasm of St. Teresa. On woman he held advanced ideas, he advocated
+her highest education, especially the cultivation of letters, for he
+said that if man alone wrote half the knowledge of the human soul would
+be lost; civilizations where women are not given education and knowledge
+never arrive at their full flowering; it is as if the collective soul of
+the nation had clipped one of its wings. His own culture was an
+all-round one. He had the intimate knowledge that residence in foreign
+lands gives: English thought, German, Italian, Austrian, American north
+and south, the Orient and its religions, in every country his literary
+interests had been alert. Thus he had a curiously minute knowledge of
+the North American poets. Of his own race essentially, he yet was
+cosmopolitan in the higher meaning of the word. All that went to make up
+dislike and division between nations he deplored as ignorance of man's
+higher destiny of brotherhood. It is not hard to read between the lines
+sometimes of his sensitive shrinking in his travels under the
+uncomprehending criticism of his native land; the world, especially the
+English-speaking world, has but a veiled contempt for things Spanish. He
+has righted his country in his books without a touch of aggressive
+impatience, by simply describing things as they are.
+
+Valera has set his romances in the Andalusia he knew best. He was born
+at Cabra in the province of Cordova in 1824, the son of a naval officer
+and the Marquesa de Paniega. He received the best of educations and when
+twenty-two accompanied the Spanish ambassador, the poet-duke de Rivas to
+Naples. Then followed half a life-time of diplomatic posts: Lisbon, Rio
+de Janeiro, Dresden, St. Petersburg, as Minister Plenipotentiary to
+Washington in 1883 and later to Brussels, finally as Ambassador to
+Vienna. He was also a member of the Cortes, a Councilor of State, and
+was one of the embassy sent to Florence to offer the Crown to Amadeus
+I. During the two years of the Republic he retired, but returned to
+active life on the advent of Alfonso XII. Although a man of the world
+Valera was a born artist. Only in his first romance did he show the hand
+of the novice. His literary style is a simple and limpid medium that
+leaves behind unfading pictures of country and town; he has done what
+Balzac calls adding new beings _à l'état civil_.
+
+"Pepita Jiménez" came out in 1874, "Doña Luz" in 1879, two vignettes of
+Andalusian women immortalizing two very different types; Pepita of
+grace, passion, charm, compact, of the very heart of femininity,
+adorable despite her failings, achieving her own happiness against all
+odds; Doña Luz, idealistic, dignified in mind and manner, of the type of
+a Vittoria Colonna, proudly bearing the heart-outrage fate sent her,
+since her soul, for her the essential, had found its mystic way out. I
+do not think that in any fiction there is a more subtly given
+relationship than that of this noble creature Luz and the Dominican
+missionary from the Philippines, Padre Enrique, scholar and dumb poet.
+What with a Zola had been revolting, with Valera is humanly
+heart-breaking and spiritually ennobling, it could shock no piety; only
+a man of elevated character and the most sensitive discernment could so
+touch on undefined emotions. The friendship of Doña Luz and the
+doctor's captivating daughter is a warm-hearted relationship of two
+young and pretty women declared impossible by many novelists. This tale
+of beautiful and tragic sincerity had been preceded by another, also set
+in one of the smaller Andalusian towns, and written with the lightness
+of manner and seriousness of matter that show the master hand: "El
+Comendador Mendoza," I cannot help feeling veils much of the author's
+own self. These stories show the soundness of the simple people. Swift
+marriages are looked on with disapproval; how, they ask, can esteem or
+true knowledge of character be gained in a few months.[33] So in Spain
+the opportunities allowed the _novios_, the young people who choose each
+other from mutual attraction, are unheard of in France or Italy.
+High-born or lowly, a Spanish girl can savor the romance of life,
+without disrepute, by talking at the _reja_ during the midnight hours;
+before marriage she is allowed a freedom of speech, a _sal_, a
+self-development, denied her sisters in other Latin countries.
+
+It is not possible to touch on all of Valera's stories, for his vein
+once discovered, proved a rich one. His longest novel has a
+poorly-chosen name, "Las Ilusiones del Doctor Faustino" and is not very
+well constructed, not enough is eliminated for art; but always there is
+the charm of the south, the midnight talking at the _reja_--those happy
+_novios_ of Spain!--the drowsiness of the noontime siesta, the vivacity
+of the evening _tertulia_, that innocent way of diverting themselves
+every night from nine to twelve, the same group of friends meeting year
+after year. Constantly, as I read Spanish novels, I say a people that
+get so much out of so little are a lovable people, wholesome and of
+vigorous promise.
+
+It was indeed with very different eyes that I looked out on the distant
+towns as we passed in the train, they were peopled now with living
+people, a Pepita, a high-minded Luz, a philosophic Don Fresco, a kindly
+Doña Araceli, I felt that I was not quite a stranger here, now that Don
+Juan Valera had lifted from me the curtain of ignorance and prejudice
+that hides the everyday life of Spain.
+
+The same year that saw the appearance of "Pepita Jiménez" brought to
+light another tale that will last as long, it does not seem too much to
+say, as the "Quixote" itself. In "El Sombrero de Tres Picos," Alacón has
+achieved a masterpiece. It is a slight tale of a few hundred pages, in
+the genre style, a picture of the old régime before the French invasion
+of 1808 broke down the Chinese wall of the Pyrenees. No description can
+do justice to its crisp, sparkling charm, to Frasquita, beautiful as a
+goddess, Eve herself, with a laugh like the _repique de Sábado de
+Gloria_; to her ugly, ironical, adorably malicious and sympathetic
+husband Lucas, the vibrant note of whose voice won all hearts, to whom
+his Frasquita was _más bueno que el pan_. Lucas and his wife are
+Shakespearean creations. Then there is that pompous vanity, the
+Corregidor, Don Eugenio de Zúñigo y Ponce de León, in his red cape, gold
+shoe buckles, and hat of three peaks. What a scene is that of the
+Bishop's visit to the miller's garden! And in what country but
+democratic Spain would a bishop stroll out with canons and grandees to
+while away a friendly hour with a miller? Inimitable tale, Spanish to
+the core, it is this that make a nation's glory, a "Don Quixote," a
+"Sotileza," a "Doña Luz," a "Sombrero de Tres Picos."
+
+Don Pedro Antonio de Alacón belonged, like Valera, to an old family of
+Andalusia, but not in the elder novelist's fortunate circumstances; one
+of ten sons, he had more or less to place himself in life. He was born
+in Gaudix in 1833; studied law at the University of Granada; and
+naturally gravitated toward Madrid, the center of political and literary
+interests. He flung himself headlong into the republican anti-clerical
+ideas of that troubled time, but in later life his theories toned down
+so that he ended as a believer and a liberal conservative. Throughout a
+long political career Alacón kept his honor unstained; although often
+with friends in power, it was only after twenty-one years of politics
+that he accepted a post, on the advent of Alfonso XII, whose return he
+had advocated long before it came about. He had begun writing when very
+young, thus "El Clavo," a powerful sketch, was done when barely twenty.
+Like many of Spain's authors, he turned soldier when the call came, and
+served in the 1860 campaign in Africa of which he has left a vivid
+chronicle, "Diario de un Testigo de la Guerra en Africa." "El Sombrero"
+was followed by "El Escándalo," a novel widely discussed in Spain. The
+story opens strongly, but it scatters toward the end; Alacón is better
+in the tale than in sustained work. He can snap his fingers at our
+criticism, his Corregidor and his Molinera have made him one of the
+immortals.
+
+To another modern novelist, to Pérez Galdós, I feel I am not fair, but I
+find so much of his work antipathetic that, as he has not a good style
+and often offends good taste, I cannot force a liking. Brunetière speaks
+of the intolerance of the naturalist school of novelists, the
+intolerance of the free-thinker. Those who advocate the extreme
+republican, anti-clerical theories in Spain have this intolerance to a
+marked degree. Pérez Galdós is so biassed that he distorts his
+characters from their natural evolution by making them voice his own
+ideas. The "roman à thèse" may win a greater fame for the first hour,
+but it is sure to pass with the changing questions of the time. The
+much-praised "Doña Perfecta" struck me as absurdly untrue to human
+nature. The heroine is presented as a not uncommon type of religious
+development, naturally where there is intense religious feeling there is
+a bigot here and there, but this Lady Perfection is not a consistent
+human being, but a monster. While anxious for her nephew to leave she
+yet urges him to stay, no reason why; she could easily have rid herself
+of him yet she brings about his death. Her character of the beginning
+does not match with her character of the end (the novelist offends
+several times in this way). The thin-visaged, oily priest-villain gives
+an aside over the footlights: "I have tried tricks, but there is no sin
+in tricks. My conscience is clear": evidently old-fashioned
+melodramatics are not yet extinct. It is quite impossible for a
+well-bred Spaniard to have insulted his kind hosts, as does Pepe, by
+telling them crudely that their Christian belief is a fable as past as
+paganism, "all the absurdities, falsities, illusions, dreams, are over,"
+to-day there is no more multiplication of bread and fishes, but the
+rule of industry and machines. I think most people will feel that the
+characters of this book can intrigue and murder and throw in realistic
+asides as much as they will, we do not hate them because they fail to
+convince us that they ever really existed. They are just mouthpieces for
+their author's theories. In another novel, "Gloria," a beautiful
+passionate girl of sixteen is incapable of being the pedantic prig
+Galdós makes her in the opening chapters. Happily for the romance and
+for the weary reader, once the novelist warms to his story, religious
+discussions go to the wall and he presents a moving tragedy. Would that
+he could have kept up to the level of parts of this novel, that which
+presents Gloria's uncles, for instance, but he is very unequal. After
+scenes so true to life that they are a joy, he will indulge in the
+pseudo-giantesque of some of Hugo's purple patches, and only high genius
+can take such liberties. Thus in a tempest a church lamp falls; it
+breaks the glass of the urn in which lies the Dead Christ, it slaps St.
+Joseph in the face, it knocks the sword from the hand of St. Michael,
+and finishes its zig-zag career by crashing into a confessional. Lamps
+of anti-clerics only seem to act in this all-round, satisfying way;
+realists, like Pereda and Valera, are incapable of such exaggeration.
+Some critics hold "Angel Guerra" and "Fortuna y Jacinta" to be the best
+of Galdós. His "Episodios Nacionales" are a series of novels on the
+events of the past century in Spain. In spite of vivid scenes, they
+seemed to me long-winded and confusing; one must be Spanish, they say,
+to appreciate them.
+
+Benito Pérez Galdós was born in 1845 in the Canary Islands. He has been
+an artist, a lawyer, a politician, and a journalist; in twenty years he
+has produced forty-two volumes, a record which makes his inequalities
+easy to understand. Personally he is a sincere and upright character.
+Although an avowed free-thinker he sits in reverence at the feet of his
+fellow novelist, Pereda, an ardent believer, and it was to be near him
+that he fixed his home in Santander: "Our master," he calls him, "a
+great poet in prose, the most classic and at the same time the greatest
+innovator of our writers."
+
+Far below Pérez Galdós, who, if not the first, is a distinguished and
+talented novelist, is Blasco Ibáñez, of the same school of anti-clerics
+and extreme republicanism. His stories are vigorous, crude studies of
+Valencia, that province which the proverb says is "a paradise inhabited
+by demons," and because so local, the books are valuable; personally I
+lay down such a tale as "Flor de Mayo" or "Arroz y Tartana" depressed
+and sick at heart. Ibáñez lacks ideality and elevation of sentiment; he
+pictures ignoble lives in monotonous detail, all is labored description,
+for the characters never speak themselves, the author _describes_ their
+conversation. One sentence of Sancho, one sentence of the Don and you
+know who speaks! It is to this minor novelist that a recent French book,
+"Les Maîtres du Roman Espagnol Contemporain," by a Monsieur F. Vézinet,
+devotes a fourth of its pages, while dismissing Pereda contemptuously,
+and not even mentioning "Sotileza," his great sea-masterpiece. Under the
+guise of literary criticism, the French writer veils a polemic against
+religion: "For Christians actually do find solace in a belief in a
+future life," is one of his remarks. On meeting in Spanish fiction a
+dignified reserve in scenes of passion, this teacher of young men--he is
+professor in the Lycée of Lyons--supplies the pepper lacking by telling
+how a French naturalist would have described the same scenes.
+
+Another Spanish writer of the free-thinking school, but of good literary
+quality, is Leopoldo Alas, author of "La Regenta," and a caustic,
+intelligent critic who under the name of _Clarín_ did much to prick
+Spain awake to intellectual interest. Though born in Zamora (1852) he so
+associated himself with Oviedo, where he studied and later was professor
+in the University, that he may be called a son of the Asturias. "La
+Regenta" is a powerful psychological novel, set in Oviedo, somewhat
+long drawn out, for the minute following of Ana Ozores in her downfall
+too closely approaches pathology. Ana, who resembles a little her
+namesake of Russia, (Alas has treated the real issue with the same
+uncompromising morality as Tolstoi) is a brilliant, lovable woman,
+capable of the highest, a girl who at sixteen can read St. Augustine
+with emotion; but she is fatally doomed by the limitations of a woman's
+life in her station. The acute Alas here puts his finger on a real evil
+in his country, the lack of wide interests for the women of the upper
+classes if no family duties are given them. They seem to have forgotten
+Isabella's day when Doña Lucía de Medrano lectured on the Latin classics
+in the University of Salamanca, and Doña Francesca de Lebrija filled the
+chair of rhetoric in the University of Alcalá, when the Queen read her
+New Testament in Greek, and her youngest daughter, the unfortunate wife
+of Henry VIII, won the admiration of Erasmus by her solid acquirements.
+To-day the idleness enforced by fashion leads often to morbid
+religiosity or to moral disaster. Toward the end, "La Regenta" like "El
+Escándalo" flags, especially is the canon De Pas a failure. Such a man
+would have been either a great saint or a great sinner, never could he
+have steered the mean middle course he did. In this book, unlike the
+average romance, is much of the trail of the serpent of Zola's school,
+more the result of a too warm partisanship of the French novelist than
+innate in Alas.
+
+The talented Padre Coloma, author of "Pequeñeces," may be called, like
+the professor of Oviedo, a man of one novel. Born in Andalusia (1851), a
+literary protégé of Fernán Caballero, he led the life of a man of the
+world till about twenty-five, when a violent change of heart caused him
+to enter the Jesuit Order. There he has passed uneventful, useful years
+of study and teaching. His book, which is a harsh satire on the vices of
+the smart set of Madrid, made an immediate sensation. I cannot say I
+find the Padre Coloma a great writer by any means, he is too unequal;
+whole chapters drag heavily. But some of his scenes deserve the highest
+praise, such as the presentation of the heroine Currita Albornoz, or
+that truly noble description of one of Spain's proud usages, the twelve
+grandees of the first rank presenting themselves before their new
+monarch, the young Alfonso XII, on his return in 1875, a picture that
+rings with the heroic spirit of the past.
+
+We turn next to a novelist with so long a list of books to her credit
+that it is impossible to enumerate them, the Señora Emilia Pardo Bazán
+who has been called the most notable woman of letters in Europe. Her
+salon in Madrid is one of the best known in the capital, but she has so
+deeply associated herself with her native province (born in Coruña in
+1851) that she is the boast of every Gallego. Mountain lands are noted
+for the loyalty they rouse in their sons, but few such enthusiasms equal
+that of Doña Emilia. She has told of the lonely hills, the chestnut
+forests, the never-failing streams of the Norway of Spain, and made
+alive the ancient usages, and the crabbed originality of the peasantry.
+"Los Pazos de Ulloa" (_pazos_ is dialect for palace) and its sequel, "La
+Madre Naturaleza," have in them the very breath of outdoor life,--the
+last is an idyll in prose. She describes the untrained young _cura_
+leaving Santiago to step into the unhappy coil of events in the ruined
+manor house, his vain efforts to help the pathetic young wife and her
+brutalized husband. The tragedy is carried on to the second generation,
+and we see the two children growing up in solitude and desertion,
+roaming the countryside day and night, Perucho, blue-eyed, handsome as a
+Greek statue, the girl Manolita slender and dark; then the
+heart-breaking misery of the end. Work such as this is exquisite and
+sure to last. Madam Pardo Bazán edits one of the best reviews in Madrid,
+and she has written many stories that treat of life in the capital, but,
+like the novels of Valdés, they might have been written elsewhere, in
+Paris or St. Petersburg. It is in the novels of her loved _paisanos_ she
+will live.
+
+English-speaking people probably know Palacio Valdés better than any
+other Spanish writer, for his novels, of the regulation Parisian type,
+have been repeatedly translated. I care not at all for the Madrid
+novels, but sometimes in a dashing local romance he carries all before
+him: such is "La Hermana de San Sulpicio," _sal salada_, that
+untranslatable phrase of Andalusia where sparkle and verve are
+considered as highly as beauty in women. The story is facile, witty,
+light both in manner and matter, full of laughter following swift on
+tears, like its sprightly chatterbox of a heroine, an alluring creature
+who is sincere underneath the sparkle. Seville and the brilliant summer
+life of its patios, the sky raining stars, lovers talking all night at
+the _reja_ in the scented air,--no one would tell on an _enamorado_, the
+very men drinking in a tavern send out a glass to the patient lover to
+wish him good luck. The friendly equality of the different classes is
+shown again here, and other traits not so praiseworthy, such as the
+intensity of local antipathies, the Andalusian's contempt for the
+Gallego, the Catalan's for the Andalusian. A Barcelona business man
+grumbles all day in Seville: "A glass of cognac 30 c. one day and 35 c.
+the next in the same café. Is that business?" Two men from the northern
+mountains meet: "You too are from Asturias?" asks one. "No, from
+Galicia." "Then you are not _mi paisano_," and the first turns away in
+disdain.
+
+While the mundain, easy stories of Palacio Valdés are translated and
+widely read, one of the first of Spanish novelists is scarcely known
+outside his own country. Don José María de Pereda was born in 1835 and
+died in 1906, the year following Don Juan Valera's death. He is a true
+son of the _Montaña_, the coast country round Santander, whose Picos de
+Europa rise to a height of 9000 feet, and he has described his home with
+beautiful realism in some robust and primitive tales: "Escenas
+Montañesas; "El Sabor de la Tierruca"; "Sotileza," called his best, a
+very strong picture of fisher folk; "De tal Palo tal Astillo," which,
+like Galdós' "Gloria," is greatly spoiled by being a "roman à thèse";
+"Peñas Arriba," and many others. Pereda is a champion against skepticism
+and the weakening luxury of cities: he is so partial to his _patria
+chica_ that he often abuses the patience of readers by his too free use
+of its dialect. With him, plot and action are of slight account, for his
+interest lies in the eternal human characters and in the countryside
+that molded them. A realist more exact than Flaubert, he yet fulfills
+the prophecy of Huysmans as to the best type of novel for the future:
+"The truth of the document, the precision of detail, the condensed,
+nervous language of realism must be kept, but it must be clarified with
+soul, and mystery must no longer be explained by _maladies of the
+senses_. The romance should divide itself into two parts, welded or
+interbound as they are in life, that of the soul and that of body, and
+it should treat of their reaction, of their conflicts, of their mutual
+understandings." M. René Bazin has described a visit to Pereda at
+Polanco, his beautiful estate near Santander, where he led a life of
+cultured retirement, proving the theory which his books preach, that
+one's native home is the best paradise. To the French visitor, with his
+nation's swiftness to discern high distinction, it seemed as if it were
+Quixote himself, the man who came forward to meet him, of the pure
+hidalgo type, long face and aquiline nose, with that noble gesture of
+the hand that said, "My house is yours."
+
+Of Pereda's books, my favorite is "Peñas Arriba," which does for the
+mountain folk what "Sotileza" does for the coast life of the _Montaña_.
+It was while writing this that there fell on him the heart-rending blow
+of his young son's suicide, and a cross and date long stood in the
+rough draft of the novel to mark the separation of the past from his
+saddened later life: only by force of will could he continue. Much of
+himself shows in the tale, which would entice a Parisian himself to live
+contentedly on a mountain side. There is a scene, the death of the
+squire of Tablanca, which indeed proclaims a master hand. Spain's best
+critic, Don Marcelino Menéndez y Pelayo (himself from Santander, born
+1856) writes of Pereda: "For me and all born _de peñas al mar_, these
+books are felt before judged, they are something of our mountain land
+like the breezes of the coast, one loves the author as one does one's
+family."
+
+Perhaps it is not fair to speak of a writer who is not a romancist, when
+good minor talents among the novelists have to be passed over, but I
+cannot resist ending with the name of this famous scholar, Menéndez y
+Pelayo,[34] who may be said to be discovering Spain to herself after her
+long discouragement. His books are on the history of philosophy and
+literature: "Historía de las Ideas Estéticas en España"; "Horacio en
+España," being graphic pages on the lyric poets; "Crítica Literaria";
+"Ciencia Española," "Calderón y su Teatro," and others. Faithful to the
+best traditions of his race, he is boldly asserting her past, her poets,
+her scientists, her mystics,--they have been ignored too long; he holds
+that the peoples of the _mediodía_ are the civilizing races par
+excellence. All the warring factions of Spain agree that here is a man
+of stupendous talent. "Every time I meet him, I find him with a new
+language. Never have I met a student of such prodigious erudition,"
+wrote the skeptic Alas. Menéndez y Pelayo may be called a literary
+phenomenon. Before twenty-five he had ransacked the libraries of Spain,
+Portugal, France, Italy, and Belgium, and was given a professorship in
+the University of Madrid. To-day his reputation is European among
+scholars. His profound knowledge of Greek, Latin, and Hebrew
+literatures, helps a swift, unerring sense to perceive the best. His
+work is not only that of a scholar, for it has in it the life-giving
+touch of imagination, which is wisdom, and makes a writer a classic.
+
+An anecdote that has the ring of the simplicity of a Cervantes or a
+Valera, the self-effacing of a Luis de León, is told of the young
+scholar of twenty-two. When spending an evening with some celebrated men
+where wit and learning flowed fast and copious, he poured out quotations
+so erudite and spontaneous that in modest embarrassment he took a paper
+from his pocket as if quoting from it. At the end of the evening a
+friend seized on the magic bit of paper, to find it a washerwoman's
+bill. Praise cannot hurt such a man. When a race can produce in a short
+fifty years a Pereda, a Valera, a Menéndez y Pelayo, have we the right
+to call it spent and out of the running?
+
+
+
+
+ESTREMADURA
+
+     "I have always felt that the two most precious things in life are
+     faith and love. As I grow older I think so more and more. Ambition
+     and achievement are out of the running; the disappointments are
+     many and the prizes few, and by the time they are attained seem
+     small. The whole thing is vanity and vexation of spirit without
+     faith and love. I have come to see that cleverness, success,
+     attainment, count for little; that goodness, 'character,' is the
+     important factor in life."
+
+     GEORGE J. ROMANES.
+
+
+Literally worn out with the noise of Seville's Holy Week, we took the
+night train, that chill, rainy Good Friday, and left the Andalusian
+excitement behind. As carriages are forbidden in the city on both Holy
+Thursday and Good Friday, we had expected to walk to the station--they
+told us that the King, the year before, had walked to his train--but the
+regulation ceased at sunset on Friday and we were able to drive.
+
+As usual we had the _Reservado para Señoras_ compartment to ourselves,
+and so exhausted were we that we slept heavily with only an occasional
+waking to look out on the cold hills we were crossing. There was a moon
+which hurrying black clouds obscured fitfully. Under the somber sky the
+desolate hills seemed like the fantastic sepia drawing of a Turner:
+swift unforgettable memories one carries away from night journeys in
+Spain.
+
+We left the train at Mérida, now a poor place with some few thousand
+inhabitants, but up to the fourth century a splendid Roman city, the
+capital of Lusitania. The castle built by Romans, Moors, Knights of
+Santiago, and bishops; the theater, the aqueduct, the bridge, the
+triumphal arch, and the baths show what it once was. We could not have
+visited this solitary province at a happier hour. Field flowers made the
+countryside as beautiful for the moment as Umbria or Devonshire; the
+wheat fields, always so articulate and lovely, had their own charm even
+after the magnificent outburst of roses and orange blossoms a month
+earlier in Seville.
+
+Mérida is small,--frugal and neat, as are the larger number of Spanish
+towns. As we explored it, the people greeted us with kindly "_Vayan
+Ustedes con Dios_"; we had left behind the tourist-infested south with
+its insolent city loafers. It seemed too good to believe that we had
+come again among the grave, dignified Spaniards of the north. In order
+not to miss the Holy Saturday services, I hastened to the Cathedral.
+There was a cracked old organ and the singing was little better, but
+devout, heart-moving peasants rose and knelt, up and down, during the
+long Flectamus Genua! Levate! ceremony of that day, and the bells burst
+into the riotous clamor they seem to achieve so individually all over
+Spain. It may have been ungrateful, but it was without the slightest
+regret that I thought of the display going on at the same hour in
+Seville.
+
+We had taken the trip into Estremadura to see the Roman remains, the
+best in the Peninsula. The ruins are more fortunate in their setting
+here than in many places, for there are none of the bustling cafés nor
+electric cars of Nîmes or Verona. Paestum is more poetic, Baalbec a
+hundred times more grandiose, but Mérida on a showery, sunshiny day in
+spring is an ideal spot for musing and rambling. In the city itself are
+some ancient remains, such as a temple of Mars, and the fluted columns
+of a temple of Diana built into a mediæval house, which, by the way, has
+a lovely Plateresque window, but most of the ruins lie completely
+outside the present town. The amphitheatre, when we saw it, had a
+comfortable troop of goats asleep in the warm shelter of its oval, and
+the remarkable theatre, known as _Las Siete Sillas_, from the seven
+divisions of its upper seats that crown it like a coronet, was gay with
+poppies and buttercups,--the national colors gleamed everywhere.
+Swallows in cool, metallic, blue-black coats, dipped and swept in their
+swift, graceful way. Looking out on the view which embraced Mérida on
+one side and a line of rugged hills on the other, we lingered for hours
+in that Theatre of the Seven Seats. Children, like gentle fawns, one by
+one crept out from the town suburbs and gathered in a smiling, lovable
+circle round the strangers. We talked to them tranquilly, our map of
+their city seemed a fascinating wonder to them. They came and went
+smiling; now one returned to the town to fetch his mother, now a shy
+little girl laid an armful of poppies beside us, with no thought of
+pennies, but just out of primitive human kindliness. The dear Don's age
+of gold seemed a reality. And a day before we had angrily scattered
+those diabolical little pests, the street children of Seville! Could
+these enchanting little people belong to the same race, and live only a
+hundred and fifty miles away? Journeys in unfrequented parts of Spain
+give one a truer picture than is possible for the hurried tourist on the
+beaten track; every time we turned aside into the unspoiled country we
+met the people and ways which Cervantes has described. Never were
+gentler human beings than those little girls of Mérida, those young
+mothers, those big half-awkward lads, whose gazelle eyes would gaze
+at us inquiringly, then turn to look at the scene we so obviously
+admired, then back to us with pleasure at our appreciation of what they
+too held most beautiful. We are told that peasants get no æsthetic
+pleasure from landscape, but I am sure romantic Roman ruins and perfect
+spring-time weather had much to do with giving those children faces of
+such pure outline.
+
+[Illustration: _Copyright, 1910, by Underwood & Underwood_
+
+A ROADSIDE SCENE IN SPAIN]
+
+Perhaps later, when the sun scorches the first freshness, Mérida may be
+a desolate enough spot; we probably knew her best hour, the lovely April
+of her prime. We were loath to tear ourselves away; we read to our
+interested audience accounts of their city's past, when Emperors' armies
+marched along the Roman road that led from Cadiz north, and alert to
+catch the meaning, they listened with that vividness of the eye that
+shows the imagination is roused. Then from the daily paper we read to
+them that in Madrid on Holy Thursday, two days before, the King had
+washed the feet of a dozen poor men, kissed them in humility, then
+waited on them at table, assisted by the grandees of Spain; that on Good
+Friday he had set free some criminals. When the bishop's words rang
+through the church: "Señor, human laws condemn these men to death," Don
+Alfonso answered with moved voice: "I pardon them, and may God pardon
+me!" And somehow, Alfonso XIII is not jarring or theatric among such
+ancient usages of Spanish Christianity. Very modern with his automobile,
+his polo, his careless ease, this charming king is one with his people
+in a radical sympathy with ways that symbolize soul and heart emotions.
+
+Mérida has a bridge built by the Emperor Trajan. And it has ruins of a
+very stately aqueduct standing in wheat and poppy fields. This is built
+of stone and brick ranged in regular lines, and though only about a
+hundred feet high, is truly majestic, the entrancing touch being given
+by the hundreds of storks who have built nests on the top of the arches.
+Some of our little friends had accompanied us through the fields to the
+aqueduct, and when we took a final ramble through the town, many were
+the smiling greetings, "_Buenas Tardes_." Mérida is too small to have
+visitors pass a day there without making friends among its courteous
+people.
+
+We took an evening train on to Cáceres ten miles away, for its hotels
+sounded inviting; and a second happy day, a holy and tranquil _Domingo
+de Resurrección_, gave us another memory of Estremadura. Cáceres is an
+unspoiled mediæval town climbing up a crag, just such a place as
+Albrecht Dürer loved to paint. It is very individual. From the plaza
+with its acacia trees we mounted the steep grass-grown streets, past one
+baronial mansion after another, with old escutcheoned doorways blazoned
+with plumed helmet and shield. In one of them, the house of the
+Golfines, _los Reyes Católicos_ stayed on a visit. Nowhere in the world
+save in Spain could such a bit of the Middle Ages stand untouched and
+unnoticed, giving one that thrilling sensation of the traveler, the
+meeting unheralded with a very rare thing. The views caught between the
+granite mansions were lovely, for Cáceres lies in the most cultivated
+district of the county. Across the river rose another steep crag, turned
+into a Way of Calvary, with a picturesque church crowning it.
+
+The town has some excellent hotels, and we were well-fed and slept well
+for five pesetas a day in one of them. Easter Sunday morning I awoke to
+the sound of bleating animals, and looking out, there at every doorway
+was tied a tiny white or black lamb, with a bunch of soft greens to
+nibble on. It is the custom for each family to have this symbol of peace
+and innocence on the Christian Passover. All day long the children
+played with them, and toward evening when the toy-like legs trembled
+with fatigue, the little boys carried the lambs across their shoulders
+as shepherds do. In the midst of patriarchal ways, we kept
+congratulating ourselves that we had escaped the noisy city to the
+south, whose Easter crowds were pouring in eager excitement to the
+first bull-fight of the year; it was the thought of the scene being
+enacted in Seville that made us a little unjust to the city where so
+happy a winter had been passed.
+
+After Mass in a gray old church on the hill, a procession formed to
+carry the _pasos_ of Cáceres. Each house was hung with the national
+colors, and on the balconies tall men of the hidalgo type and proud
+Spanish ladies (Madrid has not drained the provincial places of their
+leading families) knelt respectfully as the cortège passed. The statues
+were simple and poor, they were borne by pious peasants, and the silent
+crowd dropped to its knees on the pavement with a prayer. Not a tourist
+was there, save two who felt so in sympathy with old Spain that they
+disclaimed the title. To think that the gorgeous materialistic _pasos_
+of Seville had once begun in this way! Easter afternoon made as pastoral
+a memory as the hours in Mérida. We walked out with the people to the
+hill of the Stations of the Cross. Life seemed a happy and normal thing
+when all, old and young, grandee and peasant, gave courteous greeting to
+those who passed; also it was a joy to hear pure Castilian after the
+somewhat slovenly Andalusian dialect.
+
+However, the week in Estremadura was not to end on an idyllic note. We
+attempted an excursion beyond our strength and got well punished; the
+moral is, avoid all diligence journeys in Spain, they are only for those
+who have the nerves of oxen. The real reason why we had come into this
+little-visited province was because that old emperor born in Italica
+near Seville, Trajan, the bridge builder, had in the year A.D. 105 put
+up one of his bridges at Alcántara, a town now on the Portuguese
+frontier. Such a reason sounds slightly absurd, but many who read
+certain descriptions of the bridge must feel the same impulse to hunt it
+up. Richard Ford calls it one of the wonders of Spain, "the work of men
+when there were giants on the earth," worth going five hundred miles out
+of one's way to see as it rises in lonely grandeur two hundred feet
+above the Tagus River. So it no doubt appeared to the English traveler
+who stumbled on it eighty years ago, for it was then an unrestored,
+picturesque ruin, probably unused since one of its arches had been blown
+up by the English in the Peninsula War. At any rate, it was such glowing
+words that enticed us into the wilderness of Estremadura.
+
+It is strange in Spain how little they know of districts that lie at no
+appreciable distance. At the inn at Cáceres we asked for information
+about Alcántara, and they could give none. The landlord himself came
+over to our table to look at us in astonishment. "But there is nothing
+to see there!" he assured us, too polite to ask the question that showed
+in his voice,--why were two ladies seeking a dismal spot such as
+Alcántara? I positively blushed as I answered there was a bridge. "A
+bridge!" He beat a hasty retreat to his wife in the office, where their
+merriment burst out. The next day he told us, that having inquired, he
+found we could take the train to Arroyo, an hour away, whence a
+diligence ran in a short time to Alcántara. We left the train at Arroyo,
+and on the other side of the station found the smallest diligence ever
+seen, so packed already with big countrymen that we could just force our
+unwilling selves in. When we were well started, we found to our
+consternation that we did not reach Alcántara before ten hours, the
+distance being about thirty miles. _Una legua una hora_ runs the saying,
+and this part of the world is ruled by its wise old proverbs. Too late
+to turn back, we tried to make the best of it. When in each of the
+desolate villages long pauses were made, we got out to visit the market
+or church. In the first village the altar was dressed with coarsest but
+freshest linen. Artistic pewter, unconscious of its charm, held the
+water and wine, and a score of sturdy young peasants came in from
+selling in the plaza outside, knelt on the very steps of the altar, then
+having made their serious preparation, each bashfully approached a
+white-haired priest who sat there all market day in readiness to hear
+confessions. The dismallest corner of Spain has compensations.
+
+The first ten miles of the journey reminded me of New England, with its
+stone walls and semi-cultivated land. The next ten miles were indeed the
+proverbial desolation of Estremadura; hardly an inhabitant was to be
+found on those bleak hills. We had stumbled on one of the three days of
+the yearly fair of Brozas, so we passed flocks of sheep, cattle with a
+royal spread of horns, and dozens of the nervous Andalusian horses. Even
+automobiles went by, and one Portuguese noble drove abreast three truly
+glorious cream-white mules. Seeing them, one could understand how a mule
+here can cost more than a horse. The fair was held in meadows outside
+the town, and it looked so animated that we should have liked to stop,
+but no time was given us. A mile outside Brozas we found we had to
+change from the tiny diligence, a primitive enough way of travel, and to
+continue the remaining miles to Alcántara in the mail cart, which
+consisted of a board laid across two wheels, and that one seat had to be
+shared with the driver. Fuming did no good, not another vehicle would
+take us. The cold wind howled across the treeless upland, our umbrellas
+could not break its biting force, and we were far too thinly clad from
+the warm Seville winter; I could feel the chill seize on me that was to
+lead to a month's bad illness. The final touch was when the young scamp
+who drove the mail cart found it impossible to forego his eternal
+cigarette, which, despite remonstrance, he smoked continuously. That
+evening (we had left Cáceres in the pitch dark at 5 A.M.) we were set
+down at an inn whose spacious rooms and staircase told of former
+prosperity, but so shrunken was its hospitality that it could offer
+nothing fit to eat; yet, curiously enough, the old landlady made the
+best coffee I have tasted in Europe. We kept her busy grinding and
+boiling it.
+
+Alcántara is one of the most God-forsaken places in the world. Pigs walk
+the ill-kept streets, and the vast buildings of the monkish-knights who
+formerly guarded the frontier pass are crumbling into such universal
+ruin that the lanes are a mass of broken rubbish. They are not romantic
+ruins, but depressing and almost terrifying. When we climbed down the
+precipitous hill that led to the bridge, our shoes were cut to pieces by
+the flinty stones.
+
+And the bridge, that lode-star of our pilgrimage, worth going five
+hundred miles to see! We thought with exasperation of the sixty we were
+wasting on it. No doubt Trajan did build it eighteen centuries ago, but
+they have chipped off the beautiful gray toning of ages, filled in with
+mortar the boulders after they had stood unaided till our time, and made
+a modern boulevard from Portugal. All solitude and sublimity are well
+eliminated from the scene. We sat on the benches of that banal little
+park and glared at the disappointing thing. The Tagus, Lope de Vega's
+_hidalgo Tajo_, was here a low stream, yellow with mud, flowing beneath
+bleak, unimposing hills. The bridge, in spite of its two hundred feet of
+height, did not appear as high as the aqueduct at Mérida, an effect due
+probably to the arches standing on stilts. And it may sound blatant, but
+a memory of once passing under that superb thing the Brooklyn Bridge, at
+dawn, made this ancient monument suffer in comparison. The ludicrousness
+of our having traveled out of our way to see this sight struck us at
+last, and when we recalled the Cáceres landlord's astonishment, and that
+of Brazilian friends at Seville who had tried to persuade us our
+Estremadura plan was quite mad, we too burst into a hearty laugh, soon
+sobered at the prospect of the next day's weary return to Arroyo. We
+climbed back to the inn and dined on _glasses_ of coffee.
+
+The following morning, after some more glasses of our only modus
+vivendi, we explored the decayed town. In it is a pearl of architecture
+built by the Benedictine knights in 1506, the now ruined church of San
+Benito, with lofty slender piers, one of the most gracefully
+proportioned of semi-Renaissance things. Truly was the transition from
+Gothic to Renaissance a most harmonious moment in Spanish architecture.
+This interesting discovery could not do away with the fever and cold of
+the awful drive back to Arroyo. Such petty miseries are best passed
+over. More dead than alive, late the second night we reached again the
+comfortable hotel at Cáceres, where we were glad to pause a few days to
+pick up strength to push on.
+
+Our plans had been to go to Trujillo, the birthplace of Pizarro. It was
+Estremadura that produced many of the rude, energetic _conquistadores_
+of Peru and Mexico, and the province never has recovered from that drain
+on its population. Just as the number of Jewish and Moorish exiles and
+the loss to their country's vitality has been exaggerated for partisan
+reasons, so there has been an underestimation of the more serious drain
+which Spain suffered when hoards of sturdy adventurers set out for the
+New World. The emigration was untimely; it came a century too early. The
+country had just been brought from political chaos to law and order by
+Isabella's great reign; but before the fruit of her planting could ripen
+(by peace and its natural sequence of settled trade) it was plucked
+from the bough. I have never been able to see that the expulsion of two
+hundred thousand Jews, the execution of thirty-five thousand heretics,
+and the exile of under a million Moriscoes, are sufficient causes to
+explain Spain's decay. Other countries of Europe, prosperous to-day,
+suffered from evils quite as bad. Why did Segovia, with an "old
+Christian" population independent of Moorish banishment, have
+thirty-five thousand weavers of cloth in the beginning of the
+seventeenth century and but a few hundred in the next generation? A
+score of questions similar to this can be asked to which the hackneyed
+explanation of the Inquisition and the expulsion of the Moors gives no
+answer.
+
+The causes of Spain's decay must be sought farther afield than in single
+acts of bad government which crippled the country for a time but were
+not irremediable. Through emigration, just when with the ending of the
+seven hundred years' crusade the nation should have turned to peaceful
+industries, she lost her agriculturists and her possible traders. And
+following swift on this, for emigration does not permanently weaken a
+strong race, Spain was bled of her best blood by Charles V's senseless
+European wars. She profited nothing by them, in fact they lowered her to
+the position of a mere province in the Empire. The treasure that poured
+in from the New World was poured out over Europe, it merely passed
+through Spain. American gold was a curse for her; it undermined the
+national character; the spirit of adventure, not of patient work, was
+fostered. The policy of the Emperor was continued by his descendants,
+and for two hundred years more Spain was at war. Anæmia of the whole
+race followed: so true is it that the nation of fighters to-day runs the
+risk of being the nation of weaklings to-morrow.
+
+Good government might have helped the ill, but Charles V pursued in that
+line a policy as fatal as his continental wars. He tried to force on
+these subjects whom he never understood an iron autocratic rule,
+ruthlessly crushing their tenacious spirit of independence. The death of
+Ximenez and the execution of the Comuneros leaders may be said to mark
+the ending of the sensible old régime of self-centering her resources,
+exclusive and provincial perhaps, but it had been Spain's salvation. To
+meet the expenses of ceaseless wars in Europe, when the first influx of
+colonial gold ceased, the Peninsula was heavily taxed: a fourteen per
+cent tariff on all commodities will soon kill trade. For the same
+reason, to pay for wars, the currency was debased under Philip III; and
+the Crown held monopolies on spirits, tobacco, pottery, glass, cloth,
+and other necessities, a system always bad for commerce. The agrarian
+laws were neglected, too much land was in pasturage, which tends to
+lower the census, and too vast tracts were held by single nobles. The
+loss of population went on; in 1649 an epidemic carried off two hundred
+thousand people. The economic discouragement was aggravated by a host of
+minor reasons, such as the insecurity of property along the coast from
+African pirates; a too generous allowance of holidays; the prejudice
+against trading inherited from crusading ancestors; and there being no
+alien element--for this Moor or Jew would have served--to give the spur
+of competition which keeps a nation in health. Hapsburg and Bourbon
+misgovernment and wars blighted Spain for three centuries. But to-day
+new life is stirring in her. She is returning to Ximenez's wise rule of
+not scattering but of concentrating her powers. Happily those unhealthy
+growths, the colonies, are lopped off at last:
+
+    "Passed into peace the heavy pride of Spain.
+     Back to her castled hills and windy moors!"
+
+In the mountains, not far from Trujillo, lay Yuste, the solitary
+monastery to which retired that dominating figure of his age, Charles V,
+who was so decidedly interesting as a man, but so pernicious as a ruler.
+When he came to this distant inheritance he could scarcely speak the
+Castilian tongue; he did all in his power to stifle the indomitable
+character of the race,--and alas! he succeeded but too well in starting
+her downward course. Yet the magical something in the soul of Spain
+vanquished even him, as it had impermeated the conquering Roman, the
+Goth, the Israelite, and the Arab. With all Europe from which to choose,
+Charles came back voluntarily to the Peninsula, to its most untamed
+province, to spend the last days of his jaded life.
+
+Reading at home accounts of Yuste, it had been easy to plan a trip
+there, and to Guadalupe, the famous monastery which also lay among these
+hills; but one diligence drive can quench all further foolhardy
+adventuring. With a feeling that illness was threatening, and it was
+wiser to get away from this "extrema ora," we again took the local line
+to Arroyo, and there gladly boarded the express that passed through from
+Lisbon to Madrid.
+
+
+
+
+ARAGON
+
+    "O World thou chooseth not the better part!
+     It is not wisdom to be only wise
+     And on the inward vision close the eyes,
+     But it is wisdom to believe the heart.
+     Columbus found a world, and had no chart
+     Save one that faith deciphered in the skies,
+     To trust the soul's invincible surmise
+     Was all his science and his only art.
+     Our knowledge is a torch of smoky pine
+     That lights the pathway but one step ahead
+     Across a void of mystery and dread.
+     Bid, then, the tender light of faith to shine,
+     By which alone the mortal heart is led
+     Unto the thinking of the thought divine."
+
+    GEORGE SANTAYANA.
+
+
+If it is one of the coveted sensations of a traveler to stumble
+unexpectedly on some rare spot that is overlooked and unheralded, as was
+our experience at Cáceres, there is a second emotion that is close to
+it,--the return to a favorite picture gallery, especially if in the
+meantime one has gone further afield, has learned to know other schools,
+and adjusted ideas by comparison. A return to the Prado can give this
+coveted sensation.
+
+The winter in the south had familiarized us with the Spanish painters;
+Murillo now seemed more than a sentimentalist, had he painted for
+different patrons he had been a decided realist; Toledo had showed that
+El Greco was to be taken seriously. No sooner were we back in Madrid
+than I hurried off to the Museum, and, looking neither to the right nor
+left, to give freshness to the impression, walked straight to the
+Velasquez room. In the autumn the last look had been for the "Surrender
+of Breda," and to that unforgettable, soul-stirring picture I paid my
+first return homage. It impressed me even more powerfully than before.
+Never was there a more sensitively-rendered expression of a high-minded
+soul than that of the Marquis Spínola[35] as he bends to meet his enemy.
+It is intangible and supreme, only equalled by some of Leonardo da
+Vinci's expressions. For those who hold enshrined a height to which man
+can rise, the face of this Italian general will ever be a stimulus; he
+would appeal to the English sense of honor, the chivalry of a Nelson;
+the heart-history of such a man could be told only by a novelist of true
+distinction, such as Feuillet; there is something in Spínola's reserved
+tenderness that Loti might seize in words. Velasquez shows us a man of
+the world, but he has conveyed as only genius could how this warrior for
+_España la heróica_ kept himself unspotted from the world, and this the
+painter could convey, because he himself was nobly idealistic, realist
+of the realists though he was. Not only in her mystics and novelists but
+in her painters and sculptors, Spain shows this union of the real with
+the ideal.
+
+Hours in the Velasquez room slip by unnoticed. The portrait of the
+sculptor Montañés was of more interest now that we had seen his
+polychrome statues in Seville, those especially memorable ones of St.
+Ignatius Loyola and St. Francis Borgia in the University Church. The
+hidalgo heads by El Greco, the flesh tints, alas, turned to a deathly
+green, called up Professor Domenech's words on the grave Spanish
+gentlemen in their ruffs--"sad with the nostalgia for a higher world,
+the light in their eyes holds memories of a fairer age that will not
+return; images of the last warrior ascetics." This eccentric artist has
+in the Prado a striking study of St. Paul, an intensity in his face on
+the verge of fanaticism, a true Israelite, such as only a semi-oriental
+like El Greco could seize. Another picture that struck me with even
+profounder admiration than before was Titian's Charles V on horseback.
+And again I studied long the portraits of the pale Philip II, of his
+dainty little daughters, his sisters, his most lovely mother, and that
+pathetic English wife of his. Probably no northerner can see fairly both
+sides of Philip's strange character, just as I suppose no Spaniard can
+judge Elizabeth Tudor as does an Englishman. Nevertheless, there is a
+trait in Philip that all can admire--his filial loyalty.
+
+We could have lingered in Madrid for weeks just for this gallery, but we
+had to tear ourselves away. A journey south to Murcia and Valencia had
+been planned, but the necessity of passing a cold night on the train
+made us decide now against it. Those two provinces, with Navarre, are
+the gaps of our tour in Spain: health and weather will change the
+firmest of plans. We left Madrid for Aragon, pausing in a couple of the
+Castilian cities to the east.
+
+In the capital the parks had been bursting into leaf, but it was still
+chill winter outside on the plains. Treeless and verdureless Alcalá, the
+city of Ximenez and birthplace of Cervantes, looked far from inviting.
+When we left the train at Guadalajara, the landscape was so depressing
+that its Arab name, "river of stones," seemed dismally appropriate.
+Again, as at Segovia in the autumn, a wind _de todos los demonios_ was
+blowing over the land,--raging would be the more exact word. The town
+was melancholy, so was the weather, and we had a distressing personal
+experience. When the diligence set us down at the inn, we were told
+there was not a bed to be had that night in all Guadalajara, for it was
+the election, and even the hotel corridors would be used; we would have
+to go on to Sigüenza by the night train. The wind and the cold made the
+prospect a dismal one; early spring travel in northern Spain is not a
+bed of roses.
+
+We went out to explore Guadalajara and its chief lion, the Mendoza
+palace, built by the Mæcenas family of the Peninsula whose history has
+been called the history of Spain for four hundred years, so prominent
+were they as statesmen, clerics, and writers. The palace is in the
+Mudéjar style, the exterior studded with projecting knobs; the inner
+courtyard is coarsely carved with lions and scrolls, capriciously
+extravagant and yet within bounds enough to be effective. The Duke del
+Infantado entertained Francis I here, and surely the French king with
+memories of Blois and the chaster styles which his race follows, must
+have examined with curiosity this very different architecture of his
+neighbor, the intense individuality of whose conceptions could almost
+silence criticism. The Mendoza palace is now a school for the orphans of
+officers, and when the little nun, happy and fond of laughter as the
+cloistered usually are, showed us about, we saw pleasant circles of
+young girls sewing under the forgotten gorgeousness of the _artesonado_
+ceilings.
+
+Then at midnight, wind howling and rain pelting, we crossed the muddy
+square that lay between the Sigüenza station and the town's most
+primitive inn. There they did the best they were able for us, but
+nothing could lessen the glacial damp of those linen sheets: the illness
+begun at Alcántara went on increasing. With chattering teeth and beating
+our frozen hands together to put some sensation into them, we realized
+we were back again on the truncated mountain which is central Spain,
+thousands of feet above the roses and oranges of Seville.
+
+The following day was Sunday, with a sacred concert of stringed
+instruments in the Cathedral, a good Gothic church, noticeably rich in
+sepulchers. In one chapel especially, that dedicated to St. Thomas of
+Canterbury by an English bishop who accompanied Queen Eleanor to Spain,
+when you stand among the tombs of those warriors, bishops, and knights
+of Santiago, you feel the thrill of the past. Cardinal Mendoza, "Tertius
+Rex," was at one time bishop of this Cathedral, having for vicar-general
+the priest Ximenez: Don Quixote's friend, the delightful _cura_, was
+"_hombre docto graduado en Sigüenza_."
+
+[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL OF SINGÜENZA]
+
+The chill, little city was far from stimulating; at another time it may
+appear differently, impressions are so dependent on weather and health.
+The peasants wrapped in their blankets had a beggarly aspect after the
+dandy _majo_ of Andalusia. I daresay were Seville three thousand feet
+above the sea, the bolero would be worn less jauntily. The Cathedral
+visited, there was little to detain us, so we bade a ready farewell to
+glacial sheets and ice-crusted water pitchers to continue the route to
+Aragon, west past Medinaceli, where a Roman arch stood boldly on the
+edge of its hill.
+
+The semi-royal family of Cerda, Dukes of Medinaceli, has possessions all
+over the country: forests near Avila, the _Casa de Pilatos_ in Seville,
+lands near Cordova, a castle at Zafra, and vast tracts in Catalonia. It
+descends from Alfonso _el Sabio_, whose eldest son, called _la Cerda_,
+from a tuft of hair on his face, was married to a daughter of St. Louis
+of France, and left two infant sons, who were dispossessed by their
+uncle, Sancho _el Bravo_. For generations they continued to put forward
+their claims on every fresh coronation.
+
+After entering Aragon the climate grew warmer. We were descending
+gradually, and soon fruit trees in blossom, and vineyards, appeared
+among the broken, irregular hills. Calatayud, birthplace of the Roman
+poet Martial, was extremely picturesque, with castle and steeples. The
+long hours of the journey were whiled away watching the Sunday crowds in
+the stations, many of the men and women in the astonishingly original
+costume of the province. By the time we had reached Saragossa we had
+descended to about five hundred feet altitude, and it was pleasantly
+warm.
+
+The capital of Aragon is commonplace in appearance, flat, modern, and
+prosperous. The noisy electric cars and the bustling streets made it an
+abrupt change from the small Castilian cities just left. As always, our
+first walk was to the Cathedral--Saragossa has two, and the chapter
+lives for six months in each alternately. The _Seo_ is an ancient and
+beautiful structure, the _Pilar_ is a tawdry, cold-hearted object, such
+as the eighteenth century knew how to produce, a mixture of the styles
+of Herrera and Churriguera. It is a pity that one of the most revered
+shrines in Spain should be housed in such vulgarity. Outside, seen from
+the bridge over the Ebro, the many domes of different sizes, covered
+with glazed tiles of green, yellow, and white, are not bad, but within
+is a soul-distressing mass of plaster walls, and ceilings of
+Sassoferrato-blue. The High Altar, however, has a treasure, the
+celebrated alabaster _retablo_ of Damián Forment, one of the best of
+national sculptors, who worked between the Gothic and Renaissance
+periods, and who was helped to ease of expression by Berruguete, lately
+returned from Italy.
+
+The holy of holies of this new Cathedral is, of course, the chapel of
+the _Pilar_, and about it are always gathered devotional crowds. To a
+Spaniard it is naturally a sacred spot, associated as it is with his
+earliest memories; there is not a hut in all Aragon that has not an
+image of the _Pilar_ Madonna; but to the Catholic of another land, who
+never heard of this cult till coming to Spain, it is impossible to feel
+the same devotion, especially when it is surrounded with such bad taste.
+I tried to arouse imagination by recalling what the _Pilar_ had meant
+for this city in its hours of danger, how during the siege of 1808 they
+kept up courage by exclaiming, "The holy _Virgen del Pilar_ is still
+with us!": one of the witticisms of the siege was:
+
+    "La Virgen del Pilar dice,
+     Que no quiere ser francesa."
+
+Just as in Andalusia the chief ejaculation is "_Ave María Purísima!_"
+and in the mountains of the north, "_Nuestra Señora de Nieve!_" so in
+Aragon, "_Virgen Mia del Pilar!_" springs to the lips in time of joy or
+trouble. However, emotion cannot be summoned on command, and I left
+Saragossa unmoved by her special shrine of devotion. Had it been in the
+solemn old Cathedral, sympathy had come more readily. The _Seo_, like
+most Spanish churches, is spoiled outside by restoration, but within it
+is not unworthy of the coronations and councils held there. Ferdinand
+_el Católico_ was baptized at its font; and near the altar is buried the
+heart of Velasquez's handsome little Don Baltazar Carlos, who died of
+the plague at seventeen. The church is high and square, like a hall; it
+is rich in mediæval tombs, Moorish ceilings, pictures, and jewels. Some
+truly glorious fourteenth century tapestries were still hanging in place
+after the Easter festivals, on the day of our visit; and as a council
+was to be held in the church on the following day, a row of gold busts
+of saints, Gothic relic holders, stood on the altar. The sacristy was a
+treasure house, from its floor of Valencian tiles to its vestments heavy
+with real pearls. The enthusiasm of the priest who showed us the
+Cathedral told of the personal pride most of his countrymen feel in the
+house of God; again, as at Burgos, I felt that these people considered
+their churches as much their abode as their own simple homes, that one
+supplemented the other, and hence much of the contentment of their
+frugal lives.[36]
+
+We were stupid enough to go hunting for the leaning tower of Saragossa,
+not knowing that it had come down in 1893, and the search led us through
+the narrow streets of the older town, where the mansions of dull, small
+bricks, as a rule, have been turned into stables and warehouses, like
+the former palaces of Barcelona. Outside the city, flat on the plain,
+stands what was once the Moorish, later the Christian, palace, the
+Aljuferia, now serving as barracks, in which are embedded a few good
+remains, such as a small mosque and a noble hall of Isabella's time,
+with that suggestive date, 1492,--Granada and America.
+
+On our first arrival at the hotel in Saragossa, they had informed us we
+could stay but a few days, as the centenary celebration of May 2d, 1808,
+was approaching, and every hotel room was engaged. The town so hum-drum
+to-day has a stirring history to look back on. In modern times she has
+stood a siege as heroic as any in the Netherlands, but Spain has lacked
+a Motley to make her popular. I can only repeat, justice has never been
+done to the outburst of patriotism which began in Madrid with the _Dos
+de Mayo_, 1808. Murat's savage slaughter on that May day made the whole
+of Spain rise in almost simultaneous defense, to the astonishment and
+admiration of Europe. Saragossa chose for her leader against the invader
+the young Count Palafox, assisted by the priest Santiago Sas, and by Tío
+Jorge ("Uncle George") with two peasant lieutenants. The French closed
+in round the city, but the victory of Bailén in the south raised this
+first siege.
+
+Then in December of 1808 four French marshals with twenty thousand men
+again surrounded Saragossa, and it must not be overlooked that, built on
+the plain, she had slight natural means of defense. "War to the knife"
+was the historic answer of the town when called on to surrender, and the
+bones of over forty thousand citizens at the end of the siege bore
+testimony to the boast. To embarrass the enemy they cut down the olive
+plantations around the city, thus destroying with unselfish courage the
+revenue of a generation, for it takes some twenty years for the olive
+tree to bear fruit. They sacrificed all personal rights to private
+property by breaking down the partitions from house to house till every
+block was turned into a well-defended fortress. Organized by the
+intelligent Countess of Burita, the women enrolled themselves in
+companies to serve in the hospitals and to carry food and ammunition to
+the fighters; a girl of the people, Ajustina of Aragon, whom Byron
+immortalized as the Maid of Saragossa, worked the gun of an
+artillery-man through a fiery assault. Ajustina lived for fifty years
+after her famous day, always showing the same vigorous equilibrium of
+character; though Ferdinand VII rewarded her with the commission of an
+officer, she seldom made use of the uniform of her rank nor let
+adulation change the humble course of her life. The siege lasted up to
+the end of February. In the beginning of that month the daily deaths
+were five hundred, the living were not able to bury the dead, and a pest
+soon bred; the atmosphere was such that the slightest wound gangrened.
+Sir John Carr, who visited Spain the year of the siege, heard detailed
+accounts from officers who had taken part in it: "The smoke of gunpowder
+kept the city in twilight darkness, horribly illumined by the fire that
+issued from the cannon of the enemy. In the intervals which succeeded
+these discharges, women and children were beheld in the street writhing
+in the agonies of death, yet scarcely a sigh or moan was heard. Priests
+were seen, as they were rushing to meet the foe, to kneel by the side
+of the dying, and dropping their sabers, to take the cross from their
+bosoms and administer the consolations of their religion, during which
+they exhibited the same calmness usually displayed in the chambers of
+sickness." Even after the French had forced an entrance into the city,
+there continued for weeks a room to room struggle: "Each house has to be
+taken separately," Marshall Lannes wrote to Napoleon, "it is a war that
+horrifies." "At length the city demolished, the inhabitants worn out by
+disease, fighting and famine, the besieged were obliged with broken
+hearts to surrender, February 21, 1809, after having covered themselves
+with glory during one of the most memorable sieges in the annals of war,
+which lasted sixty-three days." (_Travels in Spain_, Sir John Carr
+K.C.). Truly can the _testarudo aragonés_ of Iberian blood boast of the
+title of his capital, _siempre heróica_!
+
+The Aragonese is manly, enduring, and stubborn; the special laws of this
+independent province, the _Fueros_, are worth close study from those
+interested in the gradual steps of man's self-government; under an
+ostensible monarchy they gave republican institutions. This is an
+address to the King: "We, who count for as much as you and have more
+power than you, we elect you king in order that you may guard our
+privileges and liberties; and not otherwise." Nice language for a
+Hapsburg or a Bourbon to hear! Aragon was united early, by a royal
+marriage, to Catalonia, and a few centuries later Ferdinand's union with
+Isabella bound both provinces to Castile, Ferdinand also conquering
+Navarre; it was under the first of the Bourbon kings, Philip V, that
+Aragon lost her treasured _Fueros_.
+
+We saw nothing of the neighboring Navarre, and I cannot say we saw much
+of sturdy Aragon, since Saragossa was the only stopping-place, but a
+long day on the train going south gave us a fair idea of its general
+character. And constantly through the day rose the remembrance that it
+was here in this kingdom happened the delightful Duchess adventure.
+Never has the scene been equaled,--that witty, high-bred lady and
+_hermano Sancho_ of the adorable platitudes and proverbs--("_Sesenta mil
+satanases te lleven á ti y á tus refranes_"! even the patient Don
+exclaimed)--brother Sancho quite unembarrassed--was he not a _cristiano
+viejo_?--stooping to kiss her dainty hand.
+
+The landscape of the province was rather desolate, though relieved from
+monotony by the snow-covered wall of the Pyrenees that continued
+unbroken in the distance to our left. The Spanish side of the great
+range of mountains is abrupt in comparison with the French slopes, which
+are gay with fashionable spas, and fertile with slow, winding rivers,
+such as the Garonne. In Spain the rivers descend with such rapidity that
+they pour away their life-giving waters in prodigal spring floods, and
+during the rest of the year the land suffers from drought; there is a
+saying here that it is easier to mix mortar with wine than with water.
+
+It happened that on our train was a band of young soldiers returning to
+their homes after their military service, as irrepressible as escaped
+young colts. Such songs and merriment! Such family scenes at each
+station! Mothers and little sisters, blushing cousins and neighbors had
+flocked down from the villages on the Pyrenees slopes to welcome them. A
+touch of nature makes the world akin; we found ourselves waving, too, as
+the train drew away, leaving the returned lad in the midst of his
+rejoicing family. At the fortress-crowned town of Monzón we saw the last
+of our happy fellow travelers. There a young soldier led his comrades to
+be presented to a majestic old man with a plaid shawl flung over his
+shoulder like a toga, and the son's expression of pride in the noble
+patriarch was a thing not soon forgotten. In Spain few journeys lack a
+primary human interest, something to give food to heart or soul.
+
+
+
+
+MINOR CITIES OF CATALONIA
+
+     Romanesque is the Trappist of architecture, ... on its knees in the
+     dust, singing with lowered head in a plaintive voice the psalms of
+     penitence.... This mystic Romanesque suggests the idea of a robust
+     faith, a manly patience, a piety as secure as its walls. It is the
+     true architecture of the cloister.... There is fear of sin in these
+     massive vaults and fear of a God whose rigours never slackened till
+     the coming of the Son. Gothic on the contrary is less fearful, the
+     lowered eyes are lifted, the sepulchral voices grow angelic....
+     Romanesque allegorizes the Old Testament, and Gothic the
+     New.--J.-K. HUYSMANS.
+
+
+In his valuable book on Spanish churches, Street is justly enthusiastic
+over the form that Gothic architecture took in the province of
+Catalonia, and especially over the now unused Cathedral of Lérida, which
+he calls the finest and purest early-pointed church in Europe. It was
+such praise that induced us to stop over in the dull, little city,
+crowned by the hill where the ancient Cathedral stands. Its history of
+ten sieges, and Velasquez's "Philip IV on horseback entering Lérida in
+triumph," somehow had suggested a grandiose impression that is far from
+lived up to by the modern town.
+
+A pause of three hours between trains seemed to give ample time to see
+the Cathedral, but the scramble into which the visit to Lérida
+degenerated was proof that no limited period is ample time in this
+country of leisurely ease. Could we have gone direct to the citadel, all
+had been well, but as the hill is now a fort, with the old church turned
+into a dormitory for soldiers, much red tape was required to visit it.
+We hurried along the interminable crowded street that stretches beside
+the river, asking right and left for the office of the military
+governor. Wrongly directed, we burst into the somnolent quarters of the
+city authorities and made our request for a permit. With a slow dignity
+that no flurried haste could move, the provincial governor sent us to
+the private house of the military big-wig. There a precious half hour
+went by in the drawing-room with his handsome wife, who did not seem
+sorry to break the monotony of her exile by the strangers' visit. In
+came the genial governor waving the permit backward and forward for the
+ink to dry, and another half hour of social chatting went by, the very
+ink of Spain being gifted with dignified slowness. A soldier was put at
+our disposal to serve as guide, a young man as tranquil as his
+superior, for we climbed the hill at a snail's pace, and once inside the
+fort were stopped here and there by sentries who, letter by letter, it
+seemed to our impatience, spelled out the written paper. When finally we
+stood before the Cathedral, the soldier escort told us we must pause
+there while he went to seek the commandant of the fort. Precious minute
+after minute went by, till at last, the clock telling us we must soon be
+starting back to the station, we took the bull by the horns and entered
+the church without further delay.
+
+A strange spectacle presented itself. In every direction were ranged
+cots, clothes hung about and washing troughs added to the confusion. The
+beautiful old church had been floored half way up its piers and down
+these improvised rooms we could see other rows of narrow beds. It was so
+cluttered that I could hardly get oriented; where was the nave? which
+were the transepts? We could see that the capitols of the pillars were
+grandly carved, that here was the beautiful clearness of form, the noble
+solidity of early Gothic, but the confusion of the soldiers' dormitory
+made it impossible to study the church with any satisfaction. Except for
+the architect, Lérida to-day hardly repays a visit. The soldiers stood
+round in astonishment at such unexpected visitors, so we were soon glad
+to confine our examination to the exterior portals and the tower.
+
+Just as we were on the point of leaving, the commandant appeared, shook
+us warmly by the hand and prepared to take us over the fort. Like the
+military governor and his wife, he beamed with the interest of something
+new; the cordiality of all was perfect, but nothing, nothing, could
+hurry them. We explained that we had come to see the church alone, that
+our time unfortunately was limited, and we must now leave to catch the
+train for Poblet. He took a disappointed and bewildered farewell; up on
+his citadel in the land of pause and leisure such new-world notions of
+speed were disconcerting. With a hasty look at the noblest early-pointed
+church in Europe, a grateful handshake to the colonel, we hurried down
+the precipitous hill and jumped on the train just as it was moving out,
+our valises being flung in to us desperately at the final moment.
+
+Soon the broken, fertile hills of the province of Catalonia closed in
+around us, and the country grew so charming that we were glad to have
+planned to pass a night near Poblet. From the train we saw the prominent
+brown mass of the monastery buildings, but, of course, we ran on some
+miles before stopping in a station. There we found a Catalan cart,
+two-wheeled with a barrel vaulted awning, and drove to the primitive
+hotel at Espluga. The landlord offered us his cart to drive out to
+Poblet, two miles away, but the bumps and ruts of the road from the
+station made us prefer to walk. The ill-kept roads and the not wholly
+cultivated fields told clearly that the industrial monks were no longer
+masters of the valley.
+
+Poblet stood for monastic pride, only nobles entered as monks, the
+mitered abbot was a count-palatine and ruled the peasantry as their
+feudal lord; the revenues were enormous, but as Benedictines are
+invariably cultivated men, they were spent on ancient manuscripts, and
+in the ceaseless energy of building. When the mob came from the
+neighboring towns in 1835 to sack the convent, they shattered the very
+treasure they sought. In their blind ignorance they did not know that
+chiseled alabaster, wrought doors and windows, and carven cloisters,
+represented the hidden gold they were seeking. This uprising in Spain
+against the monasteries, the "_pecado de sangre_," was a political more
+than a religious affair; in the first Carlist war, the countryside here
+was Constitutional, while the monks of Poblet were firm for the
+Pretender Don Carlos. The havoc the mob wrought is heart-rending; and
+yet though empty and partly destroyed, Poblet is still one of the
+finest things in the Peninsula.
+
+On our way out to it we happened to take a wrong turning, which
+fortunately led us to encircle the walled-in mass of buildings before
+entering, and gave us some idea of their great extent. It was a
+veritable town; there were hospices for visitors, hospitals, a king's
+palace, an abbot's palace, a village of workshops for the artisans,
+since in every age the monks had been builders. Every style was
+represented, each stage of Romanesque and Gothic; Poblet is indeed
+to-day one of the best places in Europe to study architecture, and the
+guardian told us that students from every country flock here in the
+summer time. Artists too are a familiar sight sketching the beautiful
+vistas, the arched library, the pillared _sala capitular_ where effigies
+of the abbots lie so haughtily that one can almost understand the fury
+of the rabble, the imposing length and strength of the novices'
+dormitory where swallows now flit, the pure early Gothic of King
+Martin's palace, the odd little _glorieta_ of the chief cloister.
+Pleasant quarters can be found in the caretaker's house, which is more
+convenient than living at Espluga down the valley. We wandered for hours
+through courtyards and cloisters that show the subtly simple proportions
+of Catalan art. The church of the monastery was built during that rare
+moment when Romanesque turned to pointed work; it is very narrow and
+severe and impressive. The once superb alabaster _retablo_ is mutilated,
+and the tombs of the Aragonese kings are scattered. The bones of Jaime
+_el Conquistador_ are now in Tarragona Cathedral. Poblet served as the
+Escorial of the rulers of Aragon and Catalonia, and is many times more
+worth visiting than Philip II's rigid pile in Castile. I strongly urge
+everyone who goes to Spain to turn aside from the beaten path to see
+this unrivaled Cistercian monastery, which it is no exaggeration to say
+is one of the most artistic groups of buildings in the world. The
+evening of our visit the sunset glorified the pretty rural valley whose
+brooks bounded merrily down the hillside. "Laugh of the mountain, lyre
+of bird and tree," Lope de Vega calls the gurgling, clear waters.
+
+We took a long hour to loiter back to Espluga, accompanied by a racy old
+character, Sabina, and her tourist donkey. The peasants returning from
+cutting wood up in the mountains above us gave a new greeting, "_Santas
+Noches_," reminiscent, no doubt, of the former masters of the valley.
+
+Then the following day we took the train south of Tarragona, to the
+"Little Rome" that is the reputed birthplace of Pontius Pilate, of
+which Martial sang, and where Augustus Cæsar wintered. The landscape was
+a delight, showing the most unrivaled cultivation of soil I have ever
+seen, flowering orchards, fields of wheat and poppies, the very
+vineyards that Pliny has described; the sensation of the earth's lavish
+bounty, of the fecundity of the sun and the intoxication of growing
+things was overwhelming. And a week before we had been freezing in
+Sigüenza!
+
+On the train was an amusing company. Some dozen people came to one of
+the stations en route to escort an alert, keen-eyed little bishop, who
+mounted nimbly among us. Everyone bent to kiss his episcopal ring, and
+even when some shrewd business men entered the carriage later, and saw
+that a bishop was its occupant, they too knelt to kiss his hand in
+salutation, republican Catalans though they were. I could not take my
+eyes off the delightful little prelate, so happily unconscious of his
+purple satin skull cap with its St. Patrick's green rosette on top, and
+his equally vivid green woolen gloves. Then when we reached Tarragona,
+down he stepped briskly, and instead of entering an episcopal carriage
+as we expected, he got into a public diligence and drove off like a true
+democratic Spaniard.
+
+The Mediterranean at Tarragona was brilliantly, startlingly blue. As it
+burst on us in its sun dazzling wonder it seemed as if the bleak high
+table-land of the country behind was a nightmare of the imagination.
+Surely a whole continent must separate such luxury and such aridness.
+
+We wandered about the white, glaring city, glad to bask in warm sun and
+drink in the salt air, happy too to be back again by the inland sea that
+has known the great nations of the earth, to be part again of the
+marvelous belt of ancient civilization that encircles its blue water.
+Tarragona was surrounded by cyclopean walls, the huge boulders of Rome
+below, and the smaller mediæval stones above. The blinding sun made the
+Cathedral so dark that it was long before we could see our way about. It
+is solemn and very earnest, with a fortress-like apse, and with
+cloisters the most perfect in the country. The doorways and capitols are
+so curiously carved that they merit detail study. The Roman urns, a
+Moorish prayer niche, and so on, down through the centuries, showed
+again how clearly architecture in Spain tells her history. The chief
+_retablo_ is of extreme beauty, with large statues and smaller scenes
+combined harmoniously; in it the restraint that distinguishes the
+Catalan school is very apparent.
+
+On leaving Tarragona, the railway followed the coast for some time,
+then to our disappointment branched inland to loop round to Barcelona.
+When we realized that we could have taken the line that runs the whole
+way by the sea, we were annoyed at our mistake, though later we were
+grateful to it, for the inland route gave a noble view of Montserrat,
+that astonishing serrated ridge of gray rock, a cragged comb of stone,
+geologically a puzzle of formation, which abruptly rises out of the
+plain. For an hour the train drew nearer and nearer to it, so we got an
+admirable view. Our proposed ascent of the mountain was never to take
+place, and this was to be our only glimpse of the shrine to which
+thousands of pilgrims flock each year, where St. Ignatius Loyola sought
+counsel and made his vigil of the armor. When Barcelona was reached the
+illness which had been fastening itself closer since the unfortunate
+drive to Alcántara declared itself unmistakably, and many proposed
+excursions, such as Montserrat, Manresa, Ripoll, with its unique portal,
+had to be foregone. To leave a country with some of its best things
+unvisited is an open invitation to return,--which theory may be good
+philosophy, but is not wholly adequate in stifling regrets.
+
+
+
+
+BARCELONA
+
+     "He who loves not, lives not."
+
+     RAMÓN LULL.
+
+    "Solemn the lift of high-embowered roof,
+     The clustered stems that spread in boughs disleaved,
+     Through which the organ blew a dream of storm
+     That shut the heart up in tranquillity."
+
+    JAMES RUSSELL LOWELL.
+
+
+I wonder if, to the reader, when hearing the name Barcelona there rises
+one sovereign picture,--Isabella and Ferdinand's reception of Columbus
+on his return from the New World. It may have been some print seen in
+childhood that impressed itself indelibly on my imagination, but always
+with the name Barcelona I seemed to see _los Reyes Católicos_ seated on
+their throne listening to the man whose genius was so well bodied forth
+in his face and bearing. Around stood gentle-eyed natives of the
+Antilles, with their ornaments of pearls and gold, lures that were to
+rouse the rapacity which exterminated those Arcadian peoples, and to
+break the heart of their great discoverer. Heart-break and defeat lay in
+the future, this was an hour of enthusiastic hope. When Columbus had
+finished his peroration, the Queen and the court fell on their knees in
+a spontaneous burst of exaltation, and together intoned that king's hymn
+of victory, the _Te Deum_.
+
+It was the unknown Barcelona that called up this scene of Spain's heroic
+hour; the city as it is to-day has blurred and dimmed the picture. There
+is a striking statue of Columbus on a column that faces the harbor, but
+it is not of him nor of his patrons that you think here. The Castle of
+Segovia, the walls of Avila or Toledo, the Alhambra hill, Seville's
+Alcázar, these are romantic spots that make
+
+       "the high past appear
+    Affably real and near,
+    For all its grandiose air caught from the mien of kings";
+
+but I defy the imaginative lover of old times to call up the romantic in
+the modern capital of Catalonia; seething with industrial life, with
+revolutionary new ideas, she is too aggressive and prosperous for
+sentimental regrets.
+
+Barcelona's position as an industrial force cannot be called unexpected.
+She has ever been in the stir of big events, Italy's rival in commerce
+through the Middle Ages, when she served as the port of entry and exit
+for the armies and fleets. In all times she has enjoyed a climate that
+may well be the despair of commercial cities of the north; the summer
+heats are tempered by sea-breezes, the winters are warmer than at
+Naples. Hearing reports of roses in bloom there in January, we had
+dreaded the heat of a May in the city, but during the five weeks of our
+stay, the bracing spring air was like that of New England. Her natural
+setting, too, is good; the harbor guarded by the lofty fort of Monjuich,
+while behind stretch mountains which lay far from the mediæval town, but
+to-day, when Barcelona covers an area twelve times as large, they are
+immediate suburbs and their names are familiar signs on the tramcars.
+
+The province of Catalonia is perhaps the most individual of the thirteen
+strikingly different provinces of the Peninsula. The Catalan is more
+Spanish than French certainly, but he is always more Catalan than
+Spanish. Independent, self-interested, intractable, strong-headed as an
+Aragonese, industrious, successful, in him is found slight trace of the
+hidalgo of Castile. It is hard to believe that this hive of born
+business men is in a land whose ideal of happiness is to do nothing. The
+idleness, the high-bred courtesy of the Castilian, are as unfamiliar
+here as in the Stock Exchange of New York; indeed Barcelona, with her
+streets filled with well-dressed, briskly-moving crowds, each intent on
+his own business, is more allied to the new world than to the old.
+Adieu, indeed, to the toga-like capes, to mantillas, to midnight
+serenades. A Catalan has no time to waste chatting by alluring _rejas_.
+
+Catalonia has been called the Lancashire of Spain, and Barcelona its
+Manchester. If the comparison is fit in regard to commercial success, it
+is inappropriate in one respect, for, built by a Latin race, to whom is
+natural a sense of beauty, Barcelona, though as keen after money as the
+English town, has cared better for her interests. The sunlight is not
+darkened by the miles of factory chimneys that so oppress the heart in
+the black country. There are hundreds of belching chimneys, but they are
+kept out of sight in the valleys behind, where each factory stands
+isolated in the fields, often in a planted enclosure: this leaves the
+city proper free of traffic, smoke, and the whirr of machinery. The gay
+Rambla is edged with shops, and handsome apartment houses line the
+tree-planted avenues. Few towns have the force of will and continued
+patience to build themselves symmetrically; they are generally the
+result of hap-hazard, and only when too late the possibility of some
+river or sea front is discerned. Barcelona realized some fifty years ago
+that she was to be one of the conglomerations that modern cities tend to
+become, so she called on her engineers for plans, and from one of those
+submitted she chose an able design; _Ensanche_, extension, is the name
+for the new districts. Of course if a whole city consisted of these
+wide, regular streets, it would be monotonous, but here was already
+enough of narrow-lane picturesqueness to satisfy the artist. The walls
+that encircle the congested older town were pulled down, the opened
+space was turned into an esplanade, and radiating from this nucleus,
+streets two hundred feet wide were laid and were immediately planted
+with double rows of plane trees. To-day the vistas down these
+far-stretching avenues, the sunlight filtering through the leaves on
+groups of nurses and children, the rapidly-moving crowds, the smart
+two-wheeled Catalan carts, the whirling automobiles, give the city an
+air of joyous prosperity. Behind the big apartment houses, the law
+requires a planted space to be kept open, so that people of very
+mediocre income live in houses and in districts that only the rich of
+other towns can command.
+
+The material success of the people has found an outlet in their
+architecture: Poblet, school for the builder, is not far away. Since
+some of the houses were put up during the exaggerated phase of _l'art
+nouveau_, they are overloaded with whirling ornament, quite as bad as
+Karlsruhe, but the majority are in dignified good taste: take, for
+instance, the new University buildings, or that brown stone block near
+the beginning of the beautiful Paseo Garcia, Nos. 2 and 4, if I remember
+rightly. The sculptors too have inherited the skill of the early masters
+of Catalonia. Most of the modern churches (not Señor Gaudi's curious
+experiment, the Church of the Holy Family!) are built consistently in
+one style, the walls carved _in situ_ as in old times; the effect is
+such that one prays the days of painted plaster may never return. It was
+good to notice, too, that the new churches discarded the tinsel-decked
+altars of the eighteenth century, the bane of Peninsula shrines.
+Barcelona builds as a rule in the Catalan manner; the early architects
+of the province, though influenced by Lombard and French masters, may be
+said to have achieved a national style. It is worthy of enthusiasm with
+its singular purity of line, a proportion that is hardly Spanish. Like
+Chartres, it has "the distinguished slenderness of an eternal
+adolescence." In nothing is it akin to Isabella's efflorescent
+Plateresque-Gothic. Its clustered piers, and arches carried high aloft,
+have been used as successfully in civil as in religious architecture,
+witness the Lonja, or Exchange.
+
+The new town, with its prosperous homes and shady avenues, tended to
+make us overlook old Barcelona, yet we only had to step aside from the
+thronged Rambla and we found ourselves in dark, narrow streets, that at
+dusk especially made us shiver with apprehension. Forcibly they warned
+us that this was one of the most turbulent cities in Europe, where
+lawless socialists gather and plot, where some recent bomb-throwing
+outrages were the reason for groups of the _Guardias Civiles_ on every
+corner. The red _gorro_, the Phrygian cap worn by the city porters,
+seemed too realistic when met in dark lanes, where the men pushed rudely
+by, your sex here no prerogative. With Philistine relief we used to
+return to the sanitary, orderly avenues of the _Ensanche_, patrolled by
+placid policemen in crimson broadcloth coats. A word of praise must be
+given to some of the municipal institutions of Barcelona, such as the
+corps of city porters, each with a small district in which to render
+help. The _hospicio_, or work-house, is considered one of the best
+organized in Europe. As long ago as 1786 an English traveler, the Rev.
+Joseph Townsend, wrote of another of Barcelona's institutions: "No
+hospital that I have seen upon the continent is so well administered as
+the general hospital of this city. It is peculiar in its attention to
+convalescents, for whom a separate habitation is provided, that after
+they are dismissed from the sick wards they may have time to recover
+their strength." Also her excellent city police are worthy of praise.
+The rest of Spain could emulate them, for it was our experience that
+the local police were an incompetent set; we soon learned never to apply
+to them in case of difficulty, but to wait till an alert Civil Guard[37]
+passed, when we were sure of intelligent help.
+
+[Illustration: CLOISTERS OF SAN PABLO DEL CAMPO, BARCELONA]
+
+It is the old town, congested and gloomy though it is, that, set side by
+side with the new, makes Barcelona unique. There are to be found
+primitive churches, such as Santa Ana, or San Pablo del Campo,[38] once,
+like St. Martin-in-the-Fields, placed among meadows; dim old churches
+similar in design, Byzantine cross form with a low dome over the center
+and with cloisters that make solemn oases of repose in the busy city. A
+later period built churches whose somber walls tower high above the
+crowded houses; such are Santa María del Pino and Santa María del Mar,
+characterized by wide hall-like naves. In the width of their nave lay
+the triumph of the Catalan masters. It was in the last named church that
+a pious woman of the town noticed one day a gray, emaciated man resting,
+among a group of children, on the steps of the altar, in his face a
+light of convincing holiness. Fresh from the spiritual battle in the
+Cave of Manresa, a grand self-mastery the reward of his struggle, no
+wonder the face of Ignatius compelled the reverence of the passer by.
+
+The Cathedral of Barcelona is a typically Catalan-Gothic church. For an
+_eglesia mayor_ it is small, but so true are its proportions and so
+skillfully is it lighted that it gives the effect of grandeur. As the
+clearstory windows are mere circles, on first entering one is in
+complete darkness, but gradually out of the gloom looms that loveliest
+feature of the building, the chancel, lighted by rare old glass, with
+slender piers and lofty stilted arches rising from pavement to vaulting
+in an unforgettable beauty of symmetry. The _retablo_ of the High Altar
+is in character, articulate and graceful, unlike the usual, overladen
+reredos of Spain. Incense, prayer, soaring aspiration, the symbolization
+of this presbytery is a perfect thing: again vividly came the conviction
+that temples such as these have had and ever will have a vital influence
+on a race.
+
+Barcelona may be a shrewd commercial center, that in its material pride,
+in order not to be classed with the improvident, brutally repudiates
+most of the _cosas de España_; she may print books whose every word is
+an insult to government and religion; she is still deeply Spanish in the
+earnest piety of the larger proportion of her citizens. A Catalan may
+tell you, especially if you belong to a northern race and a different
+creed, that what you see is all form, lip-religion, that the men here,
+like intelligent men the world over, are free-thinkers. It is an easy
+matter for the prejudiced visitor to get all his misconceptions
+confirmed by a native, no one is more bitter in abuse of his country
+than a Catalan. Fortunately, one has one's own eyes wherewith to see.
+But first I must quote from a recent letter to the _London Times_ from
+the Rev. James R. Youlden, in answer to a pessimist on the religious
+condition of Spain:
+
+     "In the city of Barcelona, the largest, most modern and most
+     industrial of Spanish cities, the good attendance at Mass, not only
+     of women and children but of the men, is most remarkable, as is
+     also the number of communicants. I have myself often given Holy
+     Communion on a Sunday morning in the church of San Pedro to such
+     large numbers, fully one-third of them men, that my arms have ached
+     in conveying the sacred particles. Masses are celebrated every
+     hour, and in some churches every half hour from 5 A.M. to 12 midday
+     in all the twenty-four parish churches of the city (to say nothing
+     of numerous convent chapels) in the presence of large and often
+     crowded congregations. A visit to the church at any time from 8
+     till 12 on any Sunday morning would dispel some of the illusions of
+     your Madrid correspondent."
+
+A good test of the sincerity of religious conviction is what it costs
+the purse; new churches, like those of Barcelona, are not built by
+lip-religion. I spent several Sunday mornings sitting on one of the side
+benches of the Cathedral, learning that the Catalan, disunited from his
+mother land on many points, is ineradicably national in his creed. This
+was Spain, with the grave reverence of the smallest child, where the
+church is a loved home, a frequented refuge for meditation and
+strengthening prayer. Now a handsome and satisfied matron enters,
+followed by five or six children, the boys dressed as English sailors,
+little Battenbergs, the girls with hats like flower gardens; they
+cluster round their mother at the door, and she passes each the blessed
+water with which to sign themselves. Behind this group come some alert
+young artisans; each instantly drops on both knees to make his
+salutation to the Altar--lip-religion does not care to disarray its
+Sunday suit like this--and each blesses himself in the swift national
+way, with the final carrying to the lips of the thumb and first finger
+crossed, a symbol of fidelity to his faith. May this custom never die
+out in Spain! From the first hour of her eight hundred years' crusade,
+from Cavadonga to Granada, her religion has been her glory, interwoven
+with her nationality, like that of the Jews of old, and if she
+understands her enduring interests, this Christian faith to which she
+has clung so loyally will be her aspiration in the future. When her men
+pass the High Altar without salute, when the street children cease to
+run in daily to kneel before a shrine, throwing their scanty skirts over
+their heads if a handkerchief is lacking, when politics and religion are
+synonymous, that day Spain may be called degenerate, but not now, while
+lamps of sincere conviction burn before her altars.
+
+Ascension Thursday fell on a perfect day in late May, the warm sunshine
+tempered by a sea breeze; everyone was out gallantly in new summer
+suits. The houses were hung with the national flag, but the fairest
+decoration of the city were the hundreds of First Communicants who
+thronged the streets, accompanied by proud mothers and relatives. Each
+little girl in her quaint, long, white skirt, tulle veil and wreath of
+flowers, carried a new pearl chaplet or prayer book, and each boy wore a
+bow of white satin on his left arm. Few things are more appealing than
+an innocent-eyed child on this solemn day, and in after years, for those
+who have known such hours of purity, few memories are more indelible. As
+I passed through the old city, its dark streets lightened by these
+groups, I could not help exclaiming, "Why, when she can present a scene
+of such loveliness and hope, must Barcelona so blindly envy her neighbor
+across the Pyrenees!" Not long after leaving Spain, I stopped in a
+village in the mountains of Dauphiny, half Catholic, half Huguenot. Both
+churches were practically empty. The children of the town, except those
+of a few stanch families, walked in a public procession to honor the
+mayor, behind a banner bearing the inscription, "Ni Dieu, ni maître."
+One cannot deny there are many in Barcelona whose aspiration would be
+satisfied with a similar procession in her streets, but the majority
+still prefer an Ascension Thursday of First Communicants.
+
+Before the west door of the Cathedral are remains of ancient houses
+which, like Italy, bear the signs of guilds, for this city always
+differed from the rest of Spain in looking on trade as an honorable
+career. A street behind the Cathedral leads to other specimens of
+domestic architecture. Be sure not to be discouraged by the cold Herrara
+front of the House of the Deputation. It masks a Gothic building which,
+if properly restored, as well as the Casa Consistorial, or Town Hall,
+which stands opposite to it, would make of this formal plaza one of the
+most interesting squares in Europe. The city's renewed pride in the
+Gothic of its province, her skillful architects, her wealth, should
+tempt her to the task. Be sure to go into both these buildings. In the
+Town Hall are some lovely _ajimez_ windows that show the restraint of
+the Catalan style: they attenuated the features as far as strength would
+allow, but they knew just where to stop. The result is grace, lightness,
+a subtle something of proportion. In the Deputation House hangs the
+Catalan painter Fortuny's "Battle of Tetuán," unfinished, with a
+dashing rainbow-hued charge of horsemen that stirs the memory of Spain's
+grand forays into Africa.
+
+In exploring Barcelona one notices unfamiliar names on the shops, here
+are no longer Alvarez, González, Pérez, García, but strange Catalan
+names, such as Bosch, Cla, Puig, Catafalch, Llordachs, Petz. On every
+side, in shops, in the tramcars, one hears the dialect spoken, rather
+rough sounding and wholly unintelligible to the traveler who knows only
+Castilian. In no other of Spain's provinces is so much made of local
+differences. The names of the streets are written twice on the street
+corners, in Catalan and in Castilian, a ridiculous arrangement, for in
+these proper names the differences are slight; as _Calle de Cortes_, and
+_Correr de les Corts_. To appease his thirst for self-assertion, the
+practical Catalan has marked his streets in a less adequate way than the
+rest of the Peninsula he looks down on: the clearness of the street
+directions, each tile generally holding one bold letter, had been a
+satisfaction all over Spain. This brings me into hot water at once, the
+vexed ever palpitating Catalan question. Is this province, Spain's
+richest and most progressive, to continue under the Spanish crown, to
+ally herself with France, or to be independent? She tells us in anger,
+she pays more than her share of the taxes, that she is an isolated
+commercial and industrial force in a nation that is preëminently
+agricultural, whose laws are made to foster the farmer at the expense of
+the trader: the loss of the colonies was an advantage for the rest of
+the country whose crying need is population, but for Barcelona it was a
+severe blow. Spain has hard problems to solve, with thirteen inhabitants
+to the square mile in some provinces and one hundred and eight to the
+mile here in Catalonia.
+
+Books of open sedition are freely published, one picks them up in the
+waiting-room of a doctor's office, in the bank, on the stalls. This is
+no new phase. From early times Catalonia has only considered her own
+interests, now joining with France against Spain, now changing sides, as
+she thought to benefit herself; for her the nation is a secondary
+consideration. History proves she has been ineradicably selfish; hence
+her success, a sophist may say, but there is something higher than
+self-aggrandizement, the success of giving her strength to reforming the
+abuses she proclaims. No one denies there is crying need for political
+and financial reform at Madrid, though it is not to be brought about by
+such a book as Señor Pompeo Gener's "Cosas de España," which but widens
+the breach. One discerns it in the ignoble jealousy of the Castilian,
+which rankles in the Catalan mind; for instance in speaking of
+Castilian literature of the nineteenth century he stops short at Fernán
+Caballero and makes no mention of the distinguished modern novelists. A
+writer who holds up Herbert Spencer as the ne plus ultra of philosophy
+(Spanish free-thinkers are a generation behind in certain phases of
+thought) need not be taken too seriously, but the "Cosas de España"
+voices what is serious.
+
+"Ah Castillo Castillano! why have we ever known you!" exclaims the
+Catalan poet Briz, in his celebrated poem, "Cuatro pals de Sanch," the
+blazon of the province, its four red bars. "If to us remains only one of
+our four bars of blood, to you we owe the loss, thou kingdom of the
+castles and the hungry lions. But, O Castillo Castillano, alas for you,
+if you break our last _pals de sanch_!" This bitter spirit of revolt
+makes this grand old province that should be Spain's bulwark, Spain's
+weakness instead.
+
+Would Catalonia gain by any of the changes she dreams of? Surely under
+the formalism of France, her self-willed independence would chafe and
+break loose, for independence is a characteristic of all Spaniards, in
+all ages, now and always; one cannot exaggerate it. Also the heart of
+the province is too deeply religious to live under the "Liberté" of her
+neighbor. In the United States religious liberty is little talked of,
+but is a solid fact, wherein the new world gives a needed lesson to the
+old, with its narrow horizons and petty disputes. In France, where this
+liberty is vaunted, it is a farce: no Catalan could long tolerate such
+freedom. Again, if this small state were independent, where would she
+stand? A thought that strikes one forcibly after a tour of the province,
+whose towns, Gerona, Lérida, Tarragona, are of mediocre importance.
+Catalonia independent would be practically one city, Barcelona, whose
+trade the central government could cripple by prohibitory tariffs. Her
+pride would suffer more as one of the smallest, weakest states in
+Europe, than it now suffers under its lawful king, part of an old race
+that once led the world, and which if only this discontented daughter
+would generously help, has red blood enough to again play a prominent
+part. Spain needs just such help as the Catalan can give, she needs his
+grit, his industry, his progressiveness. Could he now bear the
+overweighted burden in a better spirit, before many years it would be
+lightened. The north is awakening to industrial life; Bilbao, Santander,
+Gijón, Coruña, Vigo, will soon be strong trading centers, and the older
+commercial city can gather supporters to work for fiscal autonomy, since
+the chief grievance is the centralized system of government in Madrid.
+Let her agitate in a constitutional way for a system like the separate
+state arrangement of our union. The opposition of two vigorous sides is
+a sign of life in a nation. Discussion means change and advancement. For
+full vigor both sides are needed, the conservative to serve as brake on
+the democrat's too swiftly-turning wheels. An important cause of Spain's
+decay,[39] according to Don Juan Valera, came from all classes thinking
+the same way; drunk with pride on the ending of the centuries of crusade
+against their Moorish invader, with the discovery of a new continent the
+people lay back in slothful inertia, without the prick of dispute to
+rouse them. Opposition and struggle are essential to vigor, but
+disloyalty saps a nation's strength. Let them strike straight-front
+blows from the shoulder, for Madrid needs rousing, but let them not stab
+in the back. Often when wandering among the old tombs of Spain, those
+effigies of the grand-masters of Santiago, Calatrava and Alcántara, the
+plumed and helmeted knights of the noble brows, I recalled some ringing
+lines of Newbolt's. Every boy of Barcelona should know them by heart,
+they are not so needed in Castile:
+
+    "To set the cause above renown,
+     To love the game above the prize,
+     To honour while you strike him down
+     The foe that comes with fearless eyes.
+     To count the life of battle good,
+     And dear the land that gave you birth,
+     And dearer yet the brotherhood
+     That binds the brave of all the earth."
+
+Her intense local patriotism has a more sympathetic side than
+double-naming her streets and bearing a jealous grudge against her
+central government. This is the revival of her provincial literature.
+The interest in dialects and folk lore is a tendency common to many
+countries to-day, but in Catalonia the movement is on a grand scale.
+There newspapers and magazines in dialect are circulated, poems and
+novels are printed not for the literary alone but for the populace. Men
+of undeniable genius have written in the local tongue, one of the first
+to use it being that strangely interesting character of the thirteenth
+century, Ramón Lull, seneschal of Majorca, troubadour, mystic hermit,
+philosopher, missionary, and his final glory, martyr for the Faith; he
+is honored in the Church as _el beato_ Raimundo Lulio. By less than ten
+years he missed being the contemporary of the gentle Assisian, the habit
+of whose tertiaries he wore; he wandered through Italy while Dante was
+writing his visions, in that wonderful century called dark, that can
+claim a Thomas Aquinas, a Bonaventura, an Abertus Magnus, an Elizabeth
+of Hungary, a Dominic, an Anthony of Padua, and that scattered over
+Europe such witnesses of its upleap of aspiration as Amiens, Chartres,
+Westminster, Salisbury, Cologne, Strasburg, León, Toledo, Siena.
+
+Lull was born in the capital of the Balearic Islands, which lie a day's
+sail from Barcelona, and having passed an apprenticeship at court under
+Jaime _el Conquistador_ of Aragon, he led in Palma a life of pleasure
+and dissipation till his romantic conversion at thirty-two. Núñez de
+Arce has enshrined the legend in verse: so violent was the seneschal's
+pursuit of a fair lady of the city that he once on horseback followed
+her into church to the scandal of the people. The poet gives the final
+scene that cured his passion, when she who was so exquisite without, to
+repell his advances, exposed to him a hidden cancer. The shock changed
+the worldling to a saint. Distributing his goods to the poor, he retired
+to a mountain, and spent some years in prayer. Later in his energetic
+career he returned to this hermitage to pass again periods in meditation
+for his spiritual strengthening, being the first to show that special
+faculty of the Spanish mystic, the double life of solitary ecstasy and
+active charity. The desire to convert the Mohammedan took such
+possession of his soul that at forty he put himself to school, like the
+great Basque patron of a later day, and in Paris he studied logic and
+Arabic in preparation for his future career.
+
+Lull attained fourscore years, the latter half of his life being
+dominated by his burning purpose to convert Islam. One pope after
+another as he mounted the chair of Peter was beseiged by this
+astonishing man, and he wandered from court to court urging the
+universities to teach the oriental languages, that missionaries for the
+East might be fittingly prepared. Little success crowned his efforts for
+popes and kings had troubles nearer home. The Catalan enthusiast came at
+an inopportune moment; the last two Crusades under St. Louis of France
+had left discouragement behind. However, before his death he had the
+satisfaction of seeing chairs of Hebrew and Arabic founded by a pope, by
+a French king, and in Spain and England. The indefatigable man visited
+Austria, Poland, and Greece; he advocated the protection of the Greeks
+against Moslem incursions, a result only achieved in our own day; he
+stopped in Cypress, traversed Armenia, Palestine, and Egypt, zealously
+expounding the Gospel. His first visit as an apostle to Northern Africa
+was a failure. There is something touching about this old missionary of
+six hundred years ago being driven out of Tunis--he and his loved
+library--and embarked with harsh orders never to return. Not in any
+spirit of patronage did he labor for the conversion of souls, but wiser
+than many to-day he carried with him true knowledge and respect for the
+Mohammedans. His liberal intelligence assimulated much that was of value
+in their ideas, especially from those heretics of Islam, the Persian
+Sufis, or mystics.
+
+A second time when over seventy Lull ventured across to Africa, and
+again he--and the books--were violently expelled. I fear our blessed
+Raimundo was a bit of a visionary, he thought to convince by
+intellectual debate. The king of England learning of the old scholar's
+chemical studies, with the curiosity of the period in regard to the
+philosopher's stone, invited him to London, and lodged him with the
+monks of Westminster Abbey. Chemistry was merely a side issue in the
+life of the great missionary. Just short of his eightieth year, with
+untiring courage and magnificent faith, he set forth once more on his
+final apostleship to the Mohammedan, and once more preached in Egypt,
+Jerusalem, and Tunis. At Bugia he was stoned by the furious populace,
+who left him for dead on the beach, and some Genoese merchants carried
+away his almost lifeless body. Before they reached the harbor of Palma
+the martyr had died, and his townsmen buried him with honors in the
+church of his master, St. Francis.
+
+Lull's books, the "Ars Magna" and the "Arbor Scientiæ," are filled with
+the curious system he evolved for reducing discords. He tried to
+co-ordinate and facilitate the operations of the mind, to simplify all
+sciences by showing them to be branches of one trunk. Much of his theory
+may be fanciful and impractical, but it was a truly suggestive idea
+based on the profound truth of the unity of knowledge. He explored many
+branches of the human mind, and left works on medicine, theology,
+politics, jurisprudence, mathematics and chemistry. The accusation of
+alchemy is untenable, for he made his experiments in scientific good
+faith, and wrote against astrology. For three centuries, down to the
+time of Descartes, Lull was considered a leader of the intellect, and
+his books were recommended by the universities of Europe.
+
+The Catalan dialect has been used by men of marked talent in our own
+time. The whole of Spain should be as proud of Padre Jacinto Verdaguer,
+as all France is of their Provençal, Mistral. Verdaguer's "Atlantada,"
+called the best epic of the century, was crowned in 1855 at the Floral
+Games, festivals which are held in Barcelona each year, for competitions
+in verse and prose, and to revive the national dances.
+
+This intellectual movement rouses the stranger's enthusiasm, and if it
+keeps itself dissociated from politics,--those abominable politics that
+sink every noble thing they fasten on, patriotism, education, religion,
+art,--the revival may prove more than a passing phase. Alert in
+literature, in music, in the sciences, in municipal progress, and
+commercial success, what need has this city to be jealous of the
+capital; they are too different for comparison. Madrid lacks much that
+Barcelona can claim; a Catalan could emulate some Castilian qualities.
+Each vitally needs the other.
+
+
+
+
+GERONA
+
+AND FAREWELL TO SPAIN
+
+              "I count him wise
+    Who loves so well man's noble memories
+    He needs must love man's nobler hopes yet more!"
+
+    WILLIAM WATSON.
+
+     "Una restauración de la vida entera de España no puede tener otro
+     punto de arranque que la concentración de todas nuestras energías
+     dentro de nuestro territorio. Hay que cerrar con cerrojos, llaves,
+     y candados todas las puertas por donde el espíritu español se
+     escapó de España para derramarse por los cuatro puntos del
+     horizonte, y por donde hoy espera que ha de venir la salvación; y
+     en cada una de esas puertas no pondremos un rótulo dantesco que
+     diga: "Lasciate ogni speranza," sino este otro más consolador, más
+     humano, muy profundamente humano, imitado de San Ajustín: "Noli
+     foras ire; in interiore Híspaniæ habitat veritas."
+
+     ANGEL GANIVET: "_Idearium Español_."
+
+The day drew near for our leaving Spain. Eight months had passed since
+we entered from the north of the Pyrenees isthmus, and now we found
+ourselves at its southern exit. They had been months filled with an
+absorbing and unexpected interest; we had come into Spain for a mere
+autumn tour, and she had forced us to linger. And I must repeat that
+I came with the average pessimistic idea that she was a spent and more
+or less worthless country, till what I saw about me daily changed me to
+a partisan. It was a hard farewell to take now. When Spain is allowed to
+show herself as she is, she wins a regard that is like an intense
+personal affection.
+
+[Illustration: A STREET STAIRWAY, GERONA]
+
+At dawn on the early day in June set for our departure we left
+Barcelona; before night we would be in France, but the leave-taking was
+to be broken by some hours in Gerona. As usual it was the fact of its
+possessing a first-rate church that determined us to stop. This was to
+be the last of the grand cathedrals which more than those of any land,
+even of France with their purer art, had realized my ideal of worship
+and reverence. As Gerona was in Catalonia, good architecture was to be
+expected, but this was better than good. The Cathedral which dominates
+the town was worthy of its stirring memories. An imposing flight of
+eighty steps, like that of the Ara C[oe]li in Rome, ascends to its west
+portal. At the head of this staircase we paused to look out on the
+panorama of the Pyrenees--mountain rose behind mountain, the foreground
+hills well-wooded, those beyond covered with snow. Here was no stupid
+Escorial facing in to a blank wall. The old masters with vivifying
+imaginations had brought the glories of nature to worship with them,
+had hung as it were in their porch, this lovely landscape.
+
+Within the Cathedral the first impression is its spaciousness. The width
+is astonishing; indeed the hall-like nave of Gerona is the widest Gothic
+vault in Christendom, and were it longer by two bays, no cathedral of
+Europe could have surpassed the effect. The wide nave of Catalan
+churches is a national feature that here reaches its acme. The choir of
+Gerona is on a smaller scale, and the meeting of the two makes a curious
+feature, not bad inside, but in the exterior view extremely ugly.
+Probably in time the choir would have been enlarged to fit its monstrous
+nave. The men in those days started undertakings as if they could never
+die, but later generations have lacked their enthusiastic ambition.
+
+By happy chance we were in time to assist at a last High Mass in a
+Spanish cathedral. It is no exaggeration to say one's heart felt heavy
+in listening to the solemn chanting, watching the reverence of priests,
+acolytes, and congregation, to realize that this was for the last time.
+The last time we should see the kiss of peace carried symbolically from
+the priest at the altar to the canons in the choir, the last time we
+should hear the clamor of the wheel of bells. I looked up to where they
+hung on the wall and nodded them a little personal farewell, so often
+had they charmed me. Farewell to sedate Spanish piety, to the
+devotional unconsciousness of individual prayer. Over the frontier,
+during the coming summer at Luchon, I was soon to hear wooden signals
+clapped during Mass to guide the wandering attention of the people, to
+see the children scamper out in obvious relief.
+
+The chancel of Gerona is a gem. The iron _reja_ that shuts in the
+_capilla mayor_ is of the plainest, like a wall of stacked spears
+guarding the holy of holies. There is no towering _retablo_, which would
+be out of character with slender Catalan piers; instead, behind the
+altar is a marvelous reredos of silver carved in scenes, and surmounted
+by three Byzantine processional crosses,--all ancient and priceless
+enough to be the treasure of a national museum. The altar and the canopy
+over it are also of silver, _retablo_ and altar being placed where they
+now stand in 1346. The effect of iron _reja_ and precious shrine is
+faultlessly artistic; we sigh here for a beauty as completely lost for
+our copying as is the tranquil perfection of these gravestones, the
+sculptured stelæ of Athens.
+
+The service over, we proceeded to examine the church. The cloisters are
+oddly irregular in shape, and look out on the snow-topped Pyrenees. So
+beautiful was the prospect that I added this cloister setting to the
+dream-cathedral Spain tempts one to build. It would have the cloisters
+of Tarragona with this outlook of Gerona's; also Gerona's altar and
+_retablo_, though the reredos of Avila and that of Tarragona are worthy
+rivals. There would be the grand staircase of this Cathedral, and it
+would ascend to a western portal like León's, with Santiago's _Pórtico
+de la Gloria_ within; the north and south doors would be Plateresque
+from Salamanca and Valladolid. The cathedral would be set on Lérida's
+crag, with the city of Toledo climbing to it and the Tagus churning
+below. The nave would be Seville's, and Seville's windows would light it
+and her organ thunder there. The choir would be Toledo's, carved by
+Rodrigo, Berruguete, and Vigarni, the chancel Barcelona's stilted
+arches. How they could be combined is hard to solve, but round this
+_capilla mayor_ would run the double ambulatory of Toledo, and the apse
+outside have León's flying buttresses,--the apse which the old mystics
+held as symbolic of the crown of thorns about the head of Christ (the
+Altar). _Rejas_ from Burgos, Granada, Seville, would guard the chapels,
+and tombs of knights and bishops from Sigüenza, from Zamora--from every
+town of Spain in fact--would line the walls: tapestries and treasures
+from Saragossa; a _via crucis_ by Hernández and portrait statues by
+Montañés; a sacristy like that of Avila; a _sala capitular_ copied from
+the Renaissance grace of San Benito in Alcántara; and a wealth of side
+chapels,--a Condestable chapel, a San Isidoro, a Cámera Santa, a San
+Millán, a Santa María la Blanca, and an isolated shrine like Palencia's,
+standing in the ambulatory. And always beneath the vault of this
+cathedral would be found far-off little Lugo's solemn adoration, and
+there would be processions as imposing as Andalusia, with the piety of
+Estremadura, or the Basque. The Giralda, built in the warm red stone of
+Astorga tower, would stand close by, and not far away, a monastery, line
+for line, like Poblet. Sitting in a Spanish cloister looking out on the
+Pyrenees, one drifts into dream-pictures of the ideal cathedral.
+
+Gerona has a few other churches worth examining, that of San Feliu, with
+two Roman sarcophagi and several early Christian ones with wave-like
+lines. We rambled about the plaza where a fair was in progress, and at
+every turning kept bidding farewell to familiar scenes of Spanish life;
+we were not again to hear the peace-bringing "_Vaya Usted con Dios!_"
+not again to assent to the cordial "_Hasta luego!_"
+
+The city is massively built, but it has a battered look, and no wonder.
+During the French invasion, Gerona stood a siege as terrific as any in
+history, yet who of us has heard of it? In May, 1809, a French army
+surrounded the city where there were only three thousand soldiers for
+the defense, yet for seven months the town defied the invaders, and that
+with half a dozen breaches in the walls. The women shouldered guns and
+drilled in a battalion formed by Doña Lucía Fitzgerald; old men and
+children piled up the earth of the ramparts; cloistered nuns, at a
+higher call, left their convents to nurse the wounded to whom they gave
+up their cells, so many priests fell fighting on the walls that no
+services were held in the churches, there was only the burning of
+candles; no one bought or sold, for every shopman was a soldier. When a
+gallant English volunteer died on the ramparts, he exclaimed that he
+lost his life gladly in a cause so just for a nation so heroic.
+
+The French drew closer and closer, and slowly the city starved. The
+hardships endured were incredible. They ate rats and mice, yet no
+thought came of surrender. A hot August dragged by, in September the
+French attacked fiercely and on both sides the men fell like flies. Who
+was the soul of this indomitable fortitude? The order and subordination
+told of a master mind, and Gerona had one, Don Mariano Alvarez de
+Castro, the inflexible governor. He it was who enrolled the women and
+children in the defense; his lofty spirit never wavered, and his force
+of character gave him so accepted an authority that he was able to
+direct a hopeless defense without recourse to cruelty. The siege of
+Gerona was not stained by any brutal act.
+
+The blockade drew closer. By October literally all food was gone, and
+the people began to fall in the streets to a foe more terrible than
+bullets. Governor Alvarez stood like a rock of courage. When he passed
+up the Cathedral steps where the heart-rending groups of the dying lay,
+his very presence gave hope: if there was a faint-hearted citizen in
+Gerona, he was more afraid of that iron man than of the French. Never
+would the governor have yielded, but toward the close of the year he
+fell ill in the infested air, and as he lay in delirium the city
+capitulated. With hundreds of dead bodies lying unburied in the streets,
+there was nothing else to be done.
+
+Then followed a scene which did honor to the invader; it rings with the
+same chivalry that Velasquez painted in the "Surrender of Breda," where
+Spínola bends to meet the conquered Nassau, the same spirit that made
+those Frenchmen of an earlier day carry a certain wounded knight, their
+prisoner, on a litter from Pamplona across the mountains to his castle
+of Loyola. The foreign troops marched into Gerona in a dead silence,
+with not a gesture of triumph, moved to awe by the corpses that covered
+the pavements and to reverence by the few hollow-eyed, living skeletons
+that met them. The moral victory lay with the conquered. When food was
+offered the starved people, even that was at first refused. Don Mariano
+Alvarez, taken prisoner on his bed, died mysteriously, poisoned, some
+say, in the fortress of Figueras not long after. And all this horror and
+heroism was only a hundred years ago!--we too walked the streets of
+Gerona in silent reverence.
+
+Then once again on the train; more volcanic hills, more dry rivers that
+showed what the spring torrents must be like, and in a few hours
+Port-Bou, the Spanish frontier town, was reached. We stood at the car
+window looking out sadly on the last of Spain as the train swept round
+the blue inlets of the Mediterranean.
+
+Farewell to this great Christian democracy where the simple title of Don
+is borne by king and people alike, to the "nation least material of
+Europe," farewell to a grave, contented race, whose leaders left noble
+works as noble as their lives, whose writers were soldiers and heroes,
+where artists prepared for religious scenes by fasting and prayers,
+where mystics were not negative and inert, but emerged from their union
+with God with more power for practical life, whose women have by
+instinct the dignity of womanhood, untainted yet by luxury, a land that
+can boast the two first women of all ages and countries, an Isabella of
+Castile, and a St. Teresa.
+
+Some may think I carry admiration too far. Carping criticism of Spain
+has been pushed to such an extent that it is time to swing to the other
+side: where there can be no joy, no admiration, there can be no
+stimulus. I like to take M. René Bazin's words as if addressed to me:
+"Vous avez raison de croire à la vitalité de l'Espagne. Elle n'a jamais
+été une nation déchue, elle a été une nation blessée."
+
+A wounded nation but not one stricken to death. She is recovering. Let
+her but be patient and aspire slowly; disciplined, tried in the fire and
+purified, by living without the ceaseless upheavals of the past century,
+by industry, by commerce, with no encumbering colonies to drain her
+blood, with the Catalans calling the Castilians "_paisanos_," she will
+get back her former strength and _brio_. Her literature, her art, are
+lifting their heads.
+
+My prayer for Spain in her rehabilitation is, that she may not diverge
+from her national spirit and traditions, may modern ideas not change her
+unworldliness and her stoical endurance, "_su esencia inmortal y su
+propio carácter_." May she guard her faith, her glory in the past and
+her aspiration for the future, the faith of the Cross that has struck
+deeper root here than in any spot on earth, but remembering always that
+her own greatest saint warns her: "In the spiritual life not to advance
+is to go back." May she never lose the virile independence of character
+that so distinguishes her people, the pride of simple manhood that looks
+out of the eyes of her honorable peasantry and makes their innate
+courtesy. No nation was ever formed so completely by the chivalry of the
+Middle Ages as Spain. May she always be _España la heróica_!
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Acuña, tomb of Bishop, 40, 41
+
+Africa, 74, 86, 87, 178, 230, 245, 246, 337, 409, 416, 417
+
+Ajustina of Aragon ("Maid of Saragossa"), 381
+
+Alacón, Pedro Antonio de, 151, 328, 335, 336, 337
+
+Alas, Leopoldo, 93, 328, 341, 342, 349
+
+Alba de Tormes, 159, 160, 200, 205-210
+
+Albertus Magnus, 414
+
+Alcalá de Henares, 28, 67, 73, 142, 238, 244, 246, 249, 342, 372
+
+Alcántara, 359-364, 394
+
+Alcántara, St. Peter of, 199
+
+Alfonso II, _el Casto_, 90, 94
+
+Alfonso VI, 87, 116, 129, 231, 236
+
+Alfonso VIII, _él de las Navas_, 50, 84
+
+Alfonso X, _el sabio_, 134, 291, 375
+
+Alfonso XI, 250
+
+Alfonso XII, 179, 180, 217, 333, 337, 343
+
+Alfonso XIII, 50, 174, 180, 181, 182, 217, 287, 289, 290, 291, 292, 351,
+355
+
+Alhambra, the, 86, 258, 265-272, 280, 396
+
+Almohades, the, 88
+
+Almoravides, the, 88
+
+Altamira y Crevea, Sr. Rafael, 327
+
+Alva, Duke of, 65, 205
+
+Alvarez de Castro, Mariano, 426, 427, 428
+
+Amadeus I (Duke of Aosta), 179, 333
+
+America, the U. S. of, 9, 16, 18, 41, 64, 128, 140, 209, 332, 370, 397,
+411
+
+America, South, 90, 177, 211, 248, 290, 319, 332, 364, 365, 366, 395,
+397
+
+Amicis, Edmondo de, 259
+
+Amiens, cathedral of, 81, 415
+
+Andalusia, 2, 37, 87, 102, 105, 112, 151, 178, 189, 225, 230, 242, 257
+259, 316, 317, 319, 333, 336, 343
+
+Aquinas, St. Thomas, 187, 414
+
+Aragon, 79, 105, 226, 372, 375-384, 391
+
+Architecture, 9, 36, 42, 43, 48, 54, 81, 91, 147, 151, 232, 295, 385,
+393, 400, 403, 421. _See_ Gothic, Romanesque, Plateresque
+
+Arenal, Doña Concepción, 133
+
+Arfe family, the de, 202, 312
+
+Armory, Madrid, the Royal, 114, 220, 226, 227, 228
+
+Arroyo, 360, 363, 368
+
+Astorga, 4, 105, 113-116, 141, 159
+
+Asturias, 4, 79-103, 105, 112, 267, 341, 346
+
+Asturias, Prince of, 84, 85, 288, 291, 324
+
+Athens, 149, 268, 423
+
+Augustine, St., 18, 155, 156, 189, 246, 342
+
+Augustus Cæsar, 107, 392
+
+Averroës, 88, 319
+
+Avila, 6, 159, 160, 162, 164, 166, 195-212, 213, 216, 269, 273, 396
+
+Azcoitia, 14, 18, 23
+
+Azpeitia, 23, 30, 31
+
+
+Baalbec, ruins of, 353
+
+Bacon, Lord, 28, 64, 69, 135
+
+Bailén, battle of, 172, 380
+
+Balearic Islands, 415
+
+Balmes y Uspia, Jaime, 210
+
+Baltazar Carlos, infante, Don, 60, 221, 227, 378
+
+Balzac, Honoré de, 327, 333
+
+Barcelona, 7, 8, 26, 28, 140, 146, 216, 345, 379, 394, 395-419, 421
+
+Basque Provinces, 4, 13-32, 36, 79, 83, 101, 105
+
+Bazán, Doña Emilia Pardo, _see_ Pardo Bazán
+
+Bazin, M. René, 79, 258, 347, 429
+
+Becerra, Gaspar, 115
+
+Bécquer, Gustavo Adolfo, 256
+
+Bembo, Pietro, Cardinal, 251
+
+Benedict XIV, 136
+
+Benedictine rule, the, 48, 49, 135, 136, 225, 364, 389
+
+Benson, Rev. Robert Hugh, 188
+
+Berruguete, Alonso de, 44, 60, 82, 205, 233, _illustration_ 256, 377,
+424
+
+Bidassoa, river, 15
+
+Bilbao, 4, 91, 140, 412
+
+Blasco Ibáñez, Vicente, 328, 340, 341
+
+Boabdil, 227
+
+Bobadilla, 2, 265
+
+Bonaventura, St., 187, 414
+
+Borgia, St. Francis (de Borja), 21, 26, 28, 30, 191, 199, 240, 251, 252,
+253, 254, 371
+
+Borromeo, St. Charles, 191, 255
+
+Borrow, George, _quoted_, 283
+
+Boston, U. S. A., 64, 118, 148, 224
+
+Bourbon kings in Spain, the, 72, 136, 171, 173, 234, 324, 367
+
+Briz, Francisco Pelayo, 411
+
+Browning, Robert, 34
+
+Brunetière, Ferdinand, 337
+
+Budé, Guillaume, 28
+
+Byron, Lord, 321, 381
+
+Byzantine Influences in Spanish Art, 48, 94, 96, 108, 148, 262, 403, 423
+
+Bull-fight, the, 11, 16, 127, 128, 129, 309, 358
+
+Burgos, 4, 33-54, 55, 56, 57, 92, 95, 148, 189, 201, 204, 273, 424
+
+
+Caballero, Fernán, _pseud_ (Doña Cecelia B. von F. de Arrom), 127, 328,
+329, 330, 343, 411
+
+Cáceres, 356, 357, 358, 359, 362, 364, 369
+
+Cadiz, 7, 71, 143, 176, 178, 316-325
+
+Calatyud, 376
+
+Calderón de la Barca, Pedro, 240, 253, 327
+
+Calvin, John, 68
+
+Campion, Edmund, 68
+
+Campoamor, Ramón de, 179, 274
+
+Cano, Alonzo, 60, 61
+
+Cano, Melchor, 153
+
+Cantabrian mountains, 82, 83, 84, 102, 112, 122, 124, 347, 348
+
+Carmelite Order, the, 183, 189, 198, 199, 200
+
+Carmona, Salvador, _see_ _illustration_ 327
+
+Carr, Sir John, 381, 382
+
+Castelar y Ripoll, Emilio, 179
+
+Castile, 6, 12, 34, 35, 36, 37, 40, 54, 55, 79, 83, 101, 105, 165, 184,
+196, 201, 204, 211, 212, 228, 229, 238, 245, 247, 257, 259, 267, 282,
+397, 411, 429
+
+Catalan language, 409, 414, 418
+
+Catalan question, 409-414
+
+Catalonia, 3, 79, 101, 105, 134, 253, 383, 385, 388, 391, 392, 396, 397,
+400, 404, 405, 409, 410, 411, 412, 414, 419, 421, 429
+
+Cathedrals, Spanish, 38, 42, 43, 108, 149, 150, 151, 202, 219, 233, 261,
+            404, 421, 422, 423, 424.
+  _Avila_, 110, 150, 201, 205, 232, 425.
+  _Astorga_, 115, 425.
+  _Barcelona_, 150, 403, 404, 424.
+  _Burgos_, 36-48, 54, 148, 150, 424.
+  _Cadiz_, 323.
+  _Cordova_, 261-265.
+  _Gerona_, 421-424.
+  _Grenada_, 271, 424.
+  _León_, 47, 57, 108-111, 150, 415, 424.
+  _Lérida_, 385, 387, 388, 424.
+  _Lugo_, 122, 123, 124, 425.
+  _Oviedo_, 92, 93, 94, 108.
+  _Palencia_, 80, 151, 425.
+  _Santiago_, 57, 107. 130-133.
+  _Salamanca_, 108, 146-148, 152.
+  _Saragossa_, 151, 376, 377, 378, 424.
+  _Seville_, 111, 150, 216, 232, 285, 287, 289, 292, 293-315, 424.
+  _Segovia_, 165, 166, 167, 168.
+  _Sigüenza_, 150, 374, 424.
+  _Tarragona_, 393, 424.
+  _Toledo_, 150, 216, 232-238, 415, 424.
+  _Valladolid_, 56, 57.
+  _Zamora_, 117, 118, 424
+
+Catherine of Aragon, 28, 224, 342
+
+Cavadonga, 85, 86, 94, 102, 172, 227, 406
+
+Cellini, Benvenuto, 150, 216
+
+Cervantes Saavedra, Miguel de, 69, 72-78, 142, 155, 166, 189, 228, 240,
+249, 250, 253, 255, 326, 349
+
+Charles I of England, 165
+
+Charles V (Charles I of Spain), Emperor, 26, 39, 72, 129, 199, 204, 216,
+218, 223, 227, 249, 251, 253, 261, 265, 269, 292, 365, 366, 367, 368
+
+Charles II, 218, 221
+
+Charles IV, 171, 175, 226
+
+Chartres, Cathedral of, 81, 268, 400, 415
+
+Chartreuse, La Grande, 24
+
+Chesterton, Mr. Gilbert K., 100
+
+Churches, Spanish:
+  _Alcántara_; S. Benito, 364, 424.
+  _Asturias_; S. M. de Naranco, 95, 96, 97, 403.
+  S. Miguel de Lino, 96, 403.
+  _Avila_; Encarnación, convent of, 197, 199.
+  S. José, convent of, 190, 199, 200.
+  S. Segundo, 205.
+  Son soles, hermitage of, 202, 203.
+  S. Tomás, 197, 203, 204, 205.
+  _Barcelona_; S. Ana, 403.
+  S. M. del Mar, 403.
+  S. M. del Pino, 403.
+  S. Pablo del Campo, 403.
+  _Burgos_; Las Huelgas, convent of, 49, 50.
+  Miraflores, convent of, 48.
+  S. Lermes, 47.
+  S. Nicolás, 46.
+  _Cadiz_; S. Felipe Neri, 71, 324.
+  Capuchin church, 323.
+  _Gerona_; S. Feliu, 425.
+  _Granada_; S. Gerónimo, 270.
+  _Madrid_; S. Isidro, 57.
+  _León_; S. Isidoro, 107, 108, 123, 214, 425.
+  S. Marcos, 111.
+  _Salamanca_; S. Esteban, 153, 154.
+  Espíritu Santo, 153.
+  _Seville_; S. Magdalena, 314.
+  Omnium Sanctorum, 281.
+  S. Paula, 281.
+  S. Marcos, 281.
+  University Church, 371.
+  _Segovia_; S. Martín, 166.
+  S. Millán, 166, 425.
+  _Toledo_; S. Bartolomé, 235.
+  S. Cristo de la Luz, 231.
+  S. Cristo de la Vega, 256.
+  S. Domingo, 235.
+  S. M. la Blanca, 231, 425.
+  S. Juan de los Reyes, 239.
+  S. Pedro Mártir, 252.
+  S. Tomé, 235, 253.
+  El Tránsito, 231.
+  _Valladolid_; S. Cruz, 59.
+  S. M. la Antigua, 57.
+  S. Gregorio, 59.
+  S. Pablo, 59
+
+Churriguera, José de, 25, 123, 152
+
+Churrigueresque Architecture, 25, 57, 123, 152, 207, 219, 376
+
+Cid Campeador, the, 50-54, 87, 108, 116, 117, 129, 147, 230, 231
+
+Clavijo, battle of, 47, 96
+
+Coloma, Padre Luis, 343
+
+Colonna, Vittoria, 227, 333
+
+Columbus, Christopher (Cristóbal Colón), 72, 78, 153, 154, 268, 301,
+395, 396
+
+Comuneros, uprising of the, 72, 204, 227, 366
+
+Constantinople, 75, 131, 217, 234, 260, 262, 303
+
+Constitutions of Spain, 174, 176-180, 204, 324, 382, 383
+
+Cordova, 7, 87, 258-265, 281, 332
+
+Córdova, Gonsalvo de, _Gran Capitán_, 227, 270, 319
+
+Cortés, Hernán, 113, 146, 290
+
+Coruña, 4, 91, 122, 125, 126, 344, 412
+
+Cranmer, Thomas, Archbishop, 68
+
+Crashaw, Richard, 27, 191, 194, 198
+
+Creighton, Mandell, Bishop, 64
+
+Cromwell, Oliver, 65
+
+
+Dante Alighieri, 134, 414
+
+Daoiz, Luis, 172, 324
+
+Darro, river, 268, 271
+
+Democracy, Spanish, 37, 49, 73, 92, 99, 100, 112, 144, 152, 168, 202,
+204, 228, 238, 284, 309, 336, 345, 355, 358, 382, 392, 428
+
+Descartes, René, 28, 194, 418
+
+Deza, Diego de, 153, 154
+
+Dickens, Charles, 9, 282
+
+Domenech, Sr. Rafael, 234, 371
+
+Dominic, St. (de Guzmán), 114, 319, 414
+
+Dominican Order, the, 59, 153, 197, 203, 248
+
+"Don Quixote," 9, 75, 76, 77, 85, 92, 105, 107, 138, 170, 259, 326, 327,
+328, 331, 335, 341, 347, 354, 374, 383
+
+_Dos de Mayo_ (May 2, 1808), 159, 172, 176, 225, 323, 324, 379, 380
+
+Douro, river, 117
+
+Dupanloup, Félix Antoine, Mgr., 189
+
+Dürer, Albrecht, 356
+
+Durham, 229
+
+
+Ebro, river, 376
+
+Edward I, of England, 49, 84
+
+Edward VI, of England, 68
+
+Egypt, 35, 417
+
+Elche, 80, 310
+
+Eleanor Plantagenet, Queen of Spain, 49, 50, 374
+
+El Greco (Domenikos Theotokopoulos), 215, 220, 234, 235, 238, 370, 371
+
+Elizabeth of England (Tudor), 63, 372
+
+Ellis, Mr. Henry Havelock, _quoted_, 314, 379
+
+Emmet, Dr. Thos. Addis, 66
+
+England, the English, 6, 9, 40, 63, 64, 66, 84, 112, 121, 140, 149, 170,
+172, 175, 180, 209, 282, 316, 332, 352, 359, 370, 398, 405, 406, 417
+
+English College, Valladolid, 62, 63, 71, 72
+
+Erasmus, Desiderius, 28, 244, 272, 342
+
+Escorial, the, 56, 194, 211, 213-219, 234, 421
+
+Eslava, Miguel Hilarión, 302, 315
+
+Espartero, General, 178
+
+Espluga, 389, 390
+
+Estremadura, 7, 34, 105, 145, 351-368, 425
+
+Eugénie, Empress, 114
+
+Eyck, Jan van, 224
+
+
+Ferdinand I, _el Magno_, 116
+
+Ferdinand III, _el Santo_, 50, 227, 289, 292
+
+Ferdinand V, _el Católico_, 19, 72, 245, 247, 249, 272, 378
+
+Ferdinand VII, 173, 174, 176, 177, 179, 381
+
+Feijóo y Montenegro, Benito Gerónimo, 70, 135, 136, 210
+
+Fernán Caballero, _see_ Caballero
+
+Feuillet, Octave, 371
+
+Figueras, 428
+
+Fisher, John, Bishop, 68
+
+Fitzmaurice-Kelley, Mr. James, _quoted_, 193
+
+Flaubert, Gustave, 346
+
+Ford, Richard, 8, 65, 195, 219, 236, 266, 282, 359
+
+Fortuny, Mariano, 408
+
+Forment Damián, 377
+
+France, the French, 6, 24, 33, 46, 66, 104, 108, 144, 149, 163, 169,
+189, 251, 276, 347, 349, 371, 383, 397, 400, 407, 410, 421, 423, 427
+
+Francia, Francisco Raibolini, _called_, 323
+
+Francis of Assisi, St. 47, 128, 195, 218, _illustration_ 327
+
+Franciscan Order, the, 77, 225, 239, 240, 249, 414, 417
+
+Francis Borgia, St., _see_ Borgia
+
+Francis I, of France, 244, 227, 373
+
+Francis de Sales, St., _see_ Sales
+
+Francis Xavier, St., _see_ Xavier
+
+French Invasion, the, 35, 54, 58, 65, 142, 150, 157, 172, 176, 177, 232,
+270, 323, 335, 380, 382, 425, 426, 427
+
+Froude, James Anthony, 40, 195
+
+
+Galdós, Benito Pérez, _see_ Pérez Galdós
+
+Galicia, 4, 61, 105, 121-141, 159, 344, 345
+
+Gallegos, Fernando, 323
+
+Gandía, Duke of, _see_ Borgia, St. Francis
+
+Ganivet, Angel, 22, 330, 420
+
+Garcilaso de la Vega, 166, 227, 240, 250-252, 253
+
+Gardner Collection, Boston, Mrs. J. L., 224
+
+Gaudix, 151, 336
+
+Gautier, Théophile, 20, 107, 226, 295
+
+Gener, Sr. Pompeo, 410
+
+Germaine de Foix, Queen of Aragon, 19, 247, 272
+
+Germany, 6, 66, 112, 173, 237, 328
+
+Gerona, 8, 173, 179, 323, 379, 412, 420-428
+
+Gibraltar, 2, 3, 96
+
+Gijón, 91, 412
+
+Godoy, Manuel, Prince of the Peace, 65, 171, 175
+
+Goethe, Johan Wolfgang von, _quoted_, 33
+
+Gomez de Castro, Alvaro, 242
+
+Góngora y Argote, Luis de, 252
+
+Gothic Architecture, 46, 57, 80, 81, 93, 108, 111, 115, 123, 147, 153,
+165, 167, 201, 216, 232, 233, 261, 303, 307, 364, 374, 385, 387, 391,
+393, 403, 422
+
+Goths, in Spain, the, 85, 96, 98, 115, 219, 227, 230, 231, 235, 318,
+319, 368, 378
+
+Goya, Francisco, 136, 220, 225, 226
+
+Granada, 7, 60, 88, 217, 227, 239, 243, 244, 253, 265-273, 336, 406, 424
+
+Granada, Luis de, 153, 252
+
+Gregorovius, Ferdinand, 147
+
+Greece, 96, 134, 234, 416, 423
+
+Guadalajara, 8, 372, 373
+
+Guadaloupe, 368
+
+Guadalquivir, river, 230
+
+Guadarrama Mountains, 6, 170, 214, 221
+
+_Guardia Civil_, the, 101, 401, 402
+
+Guipúzcoa, 14, 15
+
+Guizot, François-Pierre-Guillaume, 70
+
+Guzmán _el bueno_, 106
+
+Guzmán family, the, 106, 114, 251
+
+Guzmán, Domingo de, _see_ Dominic, St.
+
+Gypsies, Spanish, 115, 267, 271
+
+
+Hadrian, Emperor, 281
+
+Hapsburg Kings, in Spain, 70, 72, 129, 204, 214, 324, 367
+
+Hegel, Georg Wilhelm Friedrick, 326
+
+Henry II of England, 84
+
+Henry VII of England, 269
+
+Henry VIII of England, 28, 85
+
+Hernández, Gregorio, 61, 62, 424
+
+Herrera, Fernando de, poet, 252
+
+Herrera, Juan de, architect, 56, 57, 213, 376, 408
+
+Hervás y Panduro, Lorenzo, 153
+
+Hobson, Lieut. Richmond Pearson, 370
+
+Hogarth, William, 225
+
+Holy Week in Seville, 302-315
+
+Hugo, Victor, 13, 339
+
+Huysmans, Joris-Karl, 183, 187, 193, 225, 347, 385
+
+
+Ignatius, St., _see_ Loyola
+
+Infantado, Duke del, 373
+
+Inquisition, the, 64-71, 136, 155, 176, 245, 324, 365
+
+Invincible Armada, the, 40, 76, 90, 279, 283
+
+Ireland, 66, 134, 178, 179
+
+Irish College, Salamanca, 153, 157, 158
+
+Irún, 2, 16
+
+Irving, Washington, 86
+
+Isabella I, the Catholic, 48, 64, 72, 85, 89, 129, 133, 137, 154, 162,
+166, 173, 180, 182, 203, 204, 217, 227, 241, 242, 244, 245, 252, 268,
+272, 273, 292, 342, 379, 402, 429
+
+Isabella II, 166, 173, 174, 177, 179
+
+Isabella of Portugal, Empress, 223, _illustration_ 253, 255
+
+Isidoro, San, 107, 319
+
+Isla, José Francisco de la, 70, 153, 210
+
+Islamism, 65, 87, 88, 243, 262, 263, 264, 268, 417
+
+Italica, 278, 281, 289, 359
+
+Italy, the Italians, 5, 30, 60, 74, 96, 107, 173, 223, 224, 251, 270,
+272, 276, 280, 281, 334, 349, 352, 370, 377, 408
+
+
+Jaime I, _el Conquistador_, 106, 227, 391, 415
+
+James, St., apostle, _él de España_, 97, 114, 121, 246
+
+Jerez de la Frontera, 316
+
+Jerusalem, 27, 121, 123, 263, 310, 311, 417
+
+Jesuit Order, the, 20-32, 153, 225, 255, 343
+
+Jews in Spain, the, 67, 70, 88, 318, 319, 332, 364, 365, 367, 368
+
+Jimena, wife of the Cid, 50, 52, 53, 108, 116
+
+Jimenez de Cisneros, _see_ Ximenez
+
+John of Austria, Don, 73, 76, 227, 252
+
+John of the Cross, St. (Juan de Yepes), 44, 70, 199, 234, 252
+
+Jordán, Esteban, 60
+
+Joubert, Joseph, 13, 24, 149
+
+Juana _la loca_, 247, 271
+
+Juan II, 48, 72, 113, 129
+
+Juan de la Cruz, San, _see_ John of the Cross
+
+Juní, Juan de, 60
+
+
+Lafayette, General de, 16
+
+La Granja, 168, 170, 171, 173, 174, 181
+
+Lainez, Diego, 153, 255
+
+Lancaster, John of Gaunt, Duke of, 84
+
+Lannes, Jean, Marshall, 382
+
+Larra, Mariano José de, 36
+
+Las Huelgas, convent of, 49, 50, 153
+
+Las Casas, Bartolomé de, 59, 153, 248
+
+Lea, Henry Charles, 70
+
+Lebrija, Doña Francisca de, 342
+
+Lee, Robert E., General, 64
+
+Legazpi, Miguel Lopez de, 18
+
+Leibnitz, Gottfried Wilhelm von, 194
+
+Lenormant, Charles, 70
+
+León, city of, 4, 83, 105, 106-113, 114, 122, 214, 424, 425
+
+León, province of, 4, 14, 34, 82, 104-120, 142, 157
+
+León, Luis de, 44, 68, 70, 154-157, 193, 210, 252, 319, 349
+
+Leonado da Vinci, 222, 370
+
+Lepanto, Battle of, 73, 75, 216, 227
+
+Lérida, 335-388, 412, 424
+
+Lilly, Mr. W. S., _quoted_, 183
+
+Llorente, Juan Antonio, 65
+
+Lockhart, James Gibson, 52, 53
+
+Lombardy, 57, 74, 96, 107, 400
+
+London, 28, 220, 319, 417
+
+Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth, _quoted_, 316
+
+Lorraine, Claude Gelée, _called_ Claude, 224
+
+Loti, M. Pierre, 148, 149, 371
+
+Louis IX of France, St., 50, 375, 416
+
+Louis Philippe of France, 177
+
+Lowell, James Russell, _quoted_, 104, 110, 121, 395
+
+Loyola, 4, 16, 19-32
+
+Loyola, St. Ignatius, 17, 19-32, 153, 191, 252, 255, 319, 371, 394, 403,
+415, 427
+
+Lucca, 17, 122
+
+Lucero, Diego Rodríguez de, inquisitor, 245
+
+Lugo, 4, 114, 122-125, 425
+
+Lull, Ramón (Raimundo Lulio), 319, 395, 414-418
+
+Luna, Alvaro de, 72, 233
+
+Lusitania, 352
+
+Luther, Martin, 192
+
+
+Macaulay, Thomas Babbington, 191
+
+Madrid, 2, 6, 7, 77, 80, 101, 114, 141, 142, 146, 160, 166, 169, 172,
+176, 179, 213, 216, 219-228, 231, 277, 286, 287, 292, 336, 344, 349,
+355, 369-372, 410, 412, 419
+
+Maimonides, Moses, 88, 319
+
+Maistre, Joseph de, 70, 136
+
+Málaga, 102, 247
+
+Mallock, Mr. W. H., _quoted_, 210
+
+Manresa, 27, 394, 403
+
+Manrique, Jorge, 241, 250
+
+Mantegna, Andrea, 224
+
+Maragatos, the, 115
+
+Marcus Aurelius, 242
+
+Mariana, Juan de, 153, 256
+
+Maria Cristina of Austria, Queen-Dowager, Doña, 174, 180
+
+Martial, 376, 392
+
+Martyr, Peter, 89, 272
+
+Mary I of England (Tudor), 66, 68, 85, 223, 224, 372
+
+Masaccio, Tommaso Guidi, _called_, 110
+
+Mateo, Maestro, 131, 132
+
+Mecca, 261, 263
+
+Medinaceli, family of, 290, 375
+
+Medina del Campo, 4, 160, 162, 164
+
+Medrano, Doña Lucía de, 342
+
+Melanchthon, Philipp, 68
+
+Memling, Hans, 224
+
+Mena, Juan de, 250
+
+Mendoza, family of, 47, 242, 252, 373
+
+Mendoza, Diego Hurtado de, 252
+
+Mendoza, Pedro Gonzales, Cardinal, 60, 238, 241, 242, 256, 268, 374
+
+Menéndez y Pelayo, Marcelino, 67, 70, 134, 156, 348-350
+
+Meredith, George, _quoted_, 55
+
+Mérida, 145, 352-356, 363
+
+Messina, 74
+
+Michelangelo Buonarroti, 60
+
+Mino da Fiesole, 48, 132
+
+Miño, river, 4, 122, 124, 125, 138
+
+Miraflores, Monastery of, 48, 203, 216
+
+Mistral, Federi, 418
+
+Monforte, 122, 137, 138
+
+Montañés, Juan Martinez, 44, 308, 371, 424
+
+Montesquieu, Charles, 326
+
+Montserrat, 26, 27, 394
+
+Monzón, 384
+
+Moore, Sir John, 125
+
+Moors, the, 3, 13, 50, 51, 53, 67, 83, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 94, 96, 115,
+116, 117, 129, 148, 178, 196, 205, 216, 219, 227, 230, 235, 239, 243,
+244, 249, 258-270, 289, 300, 304, 313, 318, 352, 364, 365, 367, 369,
+393, 415, 417
+
+Moorish Art, 258, 267, 268, 280, 281, 294, 379
+
+Moriscos, Expulsion of the, 86, 89, 90, 365
+
+More, Sir Thomas, 68
+
+Moro, Antonio, 223, 224
+
+Motley, John Lothrop, 224, 380
+
+Mozarabic Mass, the, 235-238
+
+Mudéjar Architecture, 59, 231, 232, 280, 290, 373
+
+Müller, Prof. Friederich Max, 153
+
+Murat, Joachim, Marshall, 380
+
+Murcia, 105, 372
+
+Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban, 44, 225, 234, 237, 253, 280, 293, 298, 323,
+370
+
+Mystics, Spanish, 10, 11, 12, 22, 27, 183, 186, 187, 191, 193, 195, 198,
+212, 242, 319, 331, 371, 414, 415, 428
+
+
+Napier, Sir Wm. F. P., 172
+
+Naples, 74, 270, 332, 397
+
+Napoleon I, 35, 172, 173, 176, 382
+
+Navarre, 14, 29, 50, 79, 105, 247, 372, 383
+
+Navas de Tolosa, battle of, Las, 50, 242
+
+Nelson, Horatio, Admiral, 370
+
+Neri, St. Philip, 31, 191
+
+Newbolt, Mr. Henry, _quoted_, 413
+
+New England, 64, 118, 148, 289, 361, 397
+
+Novels, Modern Spanish, 93, 134, 170, 195, 326-350
+
+Núñez de Arce, Gaspar, 112, 415
+
+
+O'Donnell y Jorris, General Leopoldo, 178
+
+Olivares, Conde Duque de, 221
+
+Ommiade dynasty, the, 87, 88, 89
+
+Oran, siege of, 239, 246
+
+Ordoño II of León, 108
+
+O'Reilly, Count Alexander, 178
+
+Ormsby, John, 51
+
+Osuna, Duke of, 47
+
+Oviedo, 4, 79, 90-103, 106, 108, 135, 341, 342
+
+Oxford, 28, 68, 342, 143, 152
+
+
+Padilla, Juan de, 227, 257
+
+Paestum, ruins of, 353
+
+Palafox, Count José, 380
+
+Palatinate, the, 243
+
+Palencia, 4, 79, 80, 91, 190
+
+Palestine, 80, 94, 311, 416
+
+Palma, 415, 417
+
+Palos, 320
+
+Pamplona, 26, 30, 427
+
+Pancorbo, Pass of, 34, 35
+
+Pardo Bazán, Doña Emilia, 125, 134, 135, 328, 343-345
+
+Paris, 1, 28, 29, 142, 146, 415
+
+Parma, 323
+
+Parmigianino, Mazzuoli of Parma, _called_, 224
+
+Parthenon, the, 149, 268
+
+Pasajes, 16
+
+Pascal, Blaise, 142, 240
+
+Patmore, Coventry, 199
+
+Pavia, battle of, 227, 251, 292
+
+Pedro I, _el Cruel_, 84
+
+Pelayo, King, 85, 90, 93, 94, 95, 108, 227
+
+Pereda, José María de, 327, 328, 336, 339, 340, 341, 346, 347, 350
+
+Pérez Galdós, Sr. Benito, 209, 327, 328, 337-340, 346
+
+Persia, 88, 417
+
+Pescara, Fernando Francisco d'Avalos, Marquis of, 227, 251
+
+Philip I, _el Hermoso_ (Archduke), 245, 271
+
+Philip II, 75, 85, 129, 157, 213, 216, 217, 219, 223, 291, 372
+
+Philip III, 90, 366
+
+Philip IV, 4, 48, 221, 385
+
+Philip V, 129, 171, 383
+
+Philippines, the, 18, 203, 333
+
+Ph[oe]nicians in Spain, the, 98, 318
+
+Pirates, Moorish, 87, 89, 239, 246, 247, 367
+
+Pizarro, Francisco, 146, 364
+
+Plateresque Architecture, 57, 58, 59, 111, 152, 153, 154, 256, 261, 353,
+400
+
+Pliny, 392
+
+Poblet, Monastery of, 8, 106, 177, 214, 388-391, 399, 425
+
+Polyglot Bible, the, 246, 247
+
+Pontevedra, 137, 138
+
+Pontius Pilate, 391
+
+Port-Bou, 2, 8, 428
+
+_Pórtico de la Gloria_, 57, 109, 130, 154, 268, 424
+
+Portugal, 4, 134, 138, 176, 291, 292, 349, 359, 361, 363
+
+Prado Gallery,--Madrid, the, 220-226, 369-372
+
+Prescott, W. H., 113
+
+Prim, Juan, General, 178, 179
+
+Proverbs, Spanish, 108, 117, 156, 219, 228, 240, 257, 281, 283, 328,
+334, 360, 383, 413
+
+Pyrenees, the, 15, 29, 33, 86, 383, 384, 420, 421, 422, 425
+
+
+Quiñones, Suero de, 114
+
+Quintana, Manuel José, 323
+
+
+Ramiro I of Asturias, 95, 98
+
+Ranke, Leopold von, 65, 70
+
+Raphael Sanzio, 224
+
+_Reconquista_, the, 86, 89, 101, 227, 228, 268, 269, 319
+
+Redondela, 137
+
+Rembrandt van Rijn, 221, 224
+
+Renaissance Art in Spain, 48, 58, 59, 91, 115, 152, 153, 154, 158, 203,
+205, 239, 256, 271, 364, 377, 425
+
+_Reyes Católicos, los_, 133, 154, 239, 266, 271, 357, 383, 395
+
+Ribadeneyra, Pedro de, 255, 256
+
+Ribera, José de, _Lo Spagnoletto_, 225
+
+Ripalda, Gerónimo de Martinez de, 153
+
+Ripoll, Abbey of, 394
+
+Rivas, Angel de Sáavedra, Duque de, 332
+
+Roderick, last of the Gothic kings, 85, 230
+
+Roelas, Juan de las, 225
+
+"Romancero del Cid," 9, 50, 51, 52, 53, 108, 116, 250, 326
+
+Romanesque Architecture in Spain, 48, 57, 94, 107, 111, 118, 121, 131,
+132, 147, 148, 152, 164, 166, 196, 216, 385, 391, 393, 403
+
+Romanes, George J., _quoted_, 351
+
+Roman remains in Spain, 7, 47, 107, 114, 122, 143, 146, 164, 165, 202,
+352-356, 359, 362, 375, 393, 425
+
+Rome, 30, 73, 115, 192, 220, 238, 241, 250, 255, 281, 294, 305, 311, 319
+
+Ruiz de Alarcon, Juan, 327
+
+Ruiz y Mendoza, Lieut. Jacinto, 324
+
+
+Sainte-Beuve, Charles Augustus de, 77
+
+Saints, Spanish, _see headings_, Alcántara, Borgia, Dominic, Ferdinand
+III, John of the Cross, Loyola, Xavier, Teresa
+
+Salamanca, 4, 28, 58, 89, 105, 142-158, 160, 167, 184, 189, 194, 203,
+205, 273, 298, 342, 424
+
+Sales, St. Francis de, 27, 191
+
+Salic Law, the, 173, 174
+
+Salisbury, cathedral of, 80, 415
+
+Salmerón, Alfonso, 153
+
+_Sancho Panza_, 107, 165, 228, 334, 341, 383
+
+Sancho II, _el Fuerte_, 116
+
+Sancho IV, _el Bravo_, 375
+
+San Sebastián, 16, 20, 21, 22, 124
+
+Santander, 4, 91, 340, 346, 347, 348, 412
+
+Santayana, Prof. George, _quoted_, 213, 293, 318, 367, 369
+
+Santiago, Compostella, 4, 107, 109, 121, 122, 125, 130-134, 141, 273,
+344, 424
+
+Santiago, knights of, 111, 178, 250, 352, 374, 413
+
+Saragossa, 8, 173, 376-382
+
+Sassoferrato, Giovanni Battista Salvi, _of_, 45, 376
+
+Schack, Adolf Fred. von, 65
+
+Scott, Sir Walter, 77
+
+Segovia, 6, 159-182, 213, 217, 269, 273, 365, 396
+
+_Seises_, dancing of, _los_, 12, 297, 298, 299, 300
+
+Seneca, 319
+
+Servet, Miguel, 68
+
+Seville, 7, 37, 76, 181, 189, 219, 225, 230, 247, 270, 273, 274-315,
+323, 327, 345, 351, 371, 374
+
+Shakespeare, William, 50, 224, 273, 327, 336
+
+Sidney, Sir Philip, 250, 251
+
+Siege of Gerona, 173, 425-428
+
+Siege of Saragossa, 173, 380-382
+
+Sierra Nevada, the, 269, 292
+
+Sigüenza, 8, 238, 373, 374, 375, 392
+
+Siloe, Gil de, 48
+
+Simancas, Archives of, 67
+
+Soldiers in Spanish literature, 73, 240, 250, 252, 337, 414
+
+Soto, Domingo de, 153
+
+Southwell, Robert, 68
+
+Spencer, Herbert, 210, 411
+
+Spínola, Marquis, 222, 322, 370, 427
+
+Stirling-Maxwell, Sir William, 286
+
+Street, George E., 110, 385
+
+Suárez, Francisco, 153, 210
+
+Switzerland, 83, 103, 269
+
+
+Tagus, river, 9, 229, 230, 256, 359, 363, 424
+
+Talavera, Fernando de, Bishop, 68, 244
+
+Tannenberg, M. Boris de, 348
+
+Tarifa, Siege of, 106
+
+Tarragona, 8, 391, 392, 393, 412, 424
+
+Teresa, Saint, 10, 44, 62, 70, 159, 166, 183-212, 234, 252, 331, 429
+
+Theodosius, Emperor, 281
+
+Theotokopaulos, Domenikos, _see_ El Greco
+
+Thompson, Francis, 27, 254
+
+Ticknor, George, 59, 69, 256
+
+Tintoretto, Jocopo Robusti, _called_, 215, 234
+
+Tirso de Molina (Gabriel Téllez), 327
+
+Titian, Tiziano Vecelli, _called_, 223, 227, 234, 253, 372
+
+Toledo, 7, 9, 36, 57, 87, 88, 94, 108, 146, 219, 229-257, 396, 424
+
+Toledo, Archbishops of, 77, 88, 116, 241, 242
+
+Tolstoi, Count Lyoff, 342
+
+Tormes, river, 143, 206
+
+Tostado, Bishop Alfonso de Madrigal, el, 205
+
+Toulouse, 107
+
+Townsend, Rev. Joseph, 266, 401
+
+Trajan, Emperor, 164, 281, 356, 359, 362
+
+Trujillo, 364, 367
+
+
+Urraca, of Zamora, Doña, 108, 117
+
+
+Valdés, Sr. Armando Palacio, 195, 345, 346
+
+Valencia, 53, 90, 105, 140, 150, 340, 372
+
+Valera y Alcalá Galiano, Juan, 155, 326, 327, 328, 330-336, 339, 346,
+350, 413
+
+Valladolid, 4, 55-78, 129, 149, 219, 241
+
+Van Dyke, Sir Anthony, 224
+
+Vargas, Luis de, 297
+
+Vasari, Giorgio, 115
+
+Vega, Garcelaso de la, _see_ Garcilaso
+
+Vega Carpio, Lope Felix de, 240, 250, 256, 327, 363, 391
+
+Velarde, Pedro, 172, 324
+
+Velasco, Pedro Fernández, Constable, 47
+
+Velasquez, Diego de Silva y, 6, 45, 60, 220, 221, 222, 238, 370, 371,
+385, 427
+
+Venice, 30, 215, 234
+
+Verdaguer, Jacinto, 418
+
+Veronese, Paolo Caliari, _called_, 224
+
+Vézinet, Monsieur F., 341
+
+Victoria-Eugenia, Queen of Spain, Doña, 18, 85, 165, 181, 287, 288, 289,
+290
+
+Vigarni, Felipe de, 44, 45, 233, 424
+
+Vigo, 4, 91, 134, 137
+
+Villena, Marqués de, 47
+
+Vives, Juan Luis, 28, 70, 208
+
+Vincent de Paul, Saint, 191
+
+
+Wamba, King, 230
+
+Wars, Carlist, 14, 173, 174, 177, 282, 389, 381
+
+War, Peninsula, 125, 172, 323, 359, 379-382, 425-428
+
+War, Spanish-American, 18, 370
+
+Washington, George, 136, 242
+
+Watson, Mr. William, _quoted_, 229, 396, 420
+
+Wellington, Duke of, 143, 172, 266
+
+Westminster Abbey, 262, 415, 417
+
+Wesley, John, 183
+
+Weyden, Rogier van der, 224
+
+Women, Spanish, 21, 100, 102, 117, 130, 133, 184, 204, 206, 272, 276,
+277, 290, 295, 313, 314, 328, 333, 334, 342, 354, 381, 426, 428, 429
+
+Wood Carvings, Spanish, 43, 44, 45, 46, 60, 61, 62, _illustration_ 327
+
+Worcester, cathedral, 233
+
+Wordsworth, William, 156, 379
+
+
+Xavier, St. Francis, 29, 191, 252
+
+Xerez, _see_ Jerez de la Frontera
+
+Ximena, _see_ Jimena
+
+Ximenez de Cisneros, Francisco, Cardinal, 28, 59, 82, 142, 210, 236-250,
+272, 319, 366, 374
+
+
+Yuste, Convent of, 199, 367, 368
+
+
+Zamora, 4, 105, 116-120, 143, 159, 160, 161, 162, 341, 424
+
+Zaragoza, _see_ Saragossa
+
+Zola, Emile, 333, 343
+
+Zumárraga, 16, 17
+
+Zurbaran, Francisco, 44, 220, 225
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The following typographical errors have been corrected by the etext
+transcriber:
+
+husbands, husbands to claim their wives.=>husbands to claim their wives.
+
+folded handerchiefs=>folded handkerchiefs
+
+masssive Roman walls=>massive Roman walls
+
+Leôn Cathedral>León Cathedral
+
+direct rout from Paris=>direct route from Paris
+
+Philip V turned into an artificial French pleasure ground=>Philip V
+turned it into an artificial French pleasure ground
+
+You walk about the Valasquez room bewildered>=You walk about the
+Velasquez room bewildered
+
+one throughly disagreeable=>one thoroughly disagreeable
+
+Chrismas fiestas began=>Christmas fiestas began
+
+á l'état civil=>à l'état civil
+
+a politican, and a journalist=>a politician, and a journalist
+
+good literary quailty=>good literary quality
+
+sense to preceive the best=>sense to perceive the best
+
+and to that unforgetable=>and to that unforgettable
+
+hotel corrridors would be=>hotel corridors would be
+
+where Agustus Cæsar=>where Augustus Cæsar
+
+she is too agressive=>she is too aggressive
+
+Murray's "Handbook"=>Murray's "Hand-book"
+
+Calderon=>Calderón
+
+Portico=>Pórtico
+
+Alba de Tormés=>Alba de Tormes
+
+Oviedo la sacra, Toledo la rica, Sevilla la grande, Salamanaca la
+fuerte, León la bella=>Oviedo la sacra, Toledo la rica, Sevilla la
+grande, Salamanca la fuerte, León la bella
+
+Parmegianino, Mazzuoli of Parma=>Parmigianino, Mazzuoli of Parma
+
+El Greco (Domenikos Theotocopoulos)=>El Greco (Domenikos Theotokopoulos)
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] From the Latin word _solum_, ground.
+
+[2] "C'est un pois qui a l'ambition d'être un haricot et qui réussit
+trop bien." THÉOPHILE GAUTIER "Voyage en Espagne."
+
+[3] "Las inteligencias más humildas comprenden las ideas más elevadas; y
+los que economizan la verdad y la publican sólo cuando están seguros de
+ser comprendidos viven en grandisimo error, porque la verdad, aunque no
+sea comprendida, ejerce misteriosas influencias y conduce por cáminos
+ocultos a las sublimidades más puras, alas que brotan incomprensibles y
+espontáneas de las almas vulgares."
+
+Angel Ganivet: "Idearium Español."
+
+
+[4] When the Duke of Osuna, the Spanish Ambassador to England in
+Elizabeth's reign, dropped some pearls of price from his embroidered
+cloak, he disdained to pick them up. A nobler form of Castilian
+haughtiness was that of the Marqués de Villena who, refusing to live in
+his palace after a traitor (the Constable de Bourbon) had been lodged
+there, set fire to it. There is something that appeals to the
+imagination in many of the privileges of Spanish nobles. Thus the
+Marqués de Astorga to-day, is hereditary canon in León Cathedral,
+because one of the Osorios fought in the battle of Clavijo, in 846.
+
+[5] The blood of the Cid flows to-day in the veins of Alfonso XIII
+through his descent both from the French Bourbons and from Spain's
+earlier royal house. A daughter of the Campeador married an infante of
+Navarre, whose granddaughter married Sancho III of Castile. The son of
+this king was the good and great Alfonso VIII _él de las Navas_, who,
+married to Eleanor of England (they both lie buried in Las Huelgas), was
+grandfather alike of St. Ferdinand III of Castile and St. Louis IX of
+France.
+
+[6] Translated by Ormsby.
+
+[7] "Ancient Spanish Ballads," translated by Lockhart.
+
+[8] Llorente, a bitter assailant of the Inquisition, gives the number of
+victims as 31,900. Llorente was traitor to his country during the
+invasion of the French and fled ignominiously on their defeat, pensioned
+during his later years by the freemasons of Paris; he falsified Basque
+history to win the corrupt Godoy's favour (von Ranke's statement); an
+ex-priest he assisted in church robbery. Would Benedict Arnold be
+accepted as an authority on the American Revolution? The Encyclopedia
+Brittanica, even in its ninth edition, has in its sketch on Spain, the
+following curious assertion--"bigotry and fanaticism which led to the
+destruction of hundreds of thousands of victims at the hands of the
+Inquisition." Even the political victims in the Netherlands under the
+inexorable Alba, who did to death some 18,000 people, cannot swell the
+number to a fraction of this statement. And if the Netherlands' victims
+are to be laid to the door of religious persecution, then must the
+massacres in Ireland of the inexorable Cromwell come under the same
+heading: as an Englishman judges Cromwell apart from his crimes, so a
+Spaniard sees more in Alva than his felonies. History presented to us in
+parallel columns would do much toward giving us fairer views.
+
+[9] Described by an eyewitness, the brave gentlewoman, Mrs. Willoughby.
+See: "English Martyrs," Vol. I and II of the C. T. S. Publications: 22
+Paternoster Row: London. Dr. Thomas Addis Emmet in "Ireland under
+English Rule" (Putnam's Sons, N. Y. 1903) gives occurrences equally
+terrible.
+
+[10] I do not mention in this list Archbishop Cranmer and his fellow
+prelates, Latimer and Ridley, since having been persecutors themselves
+they may be said to have reaped under Mary Tudor what they had sowed
+under Edward VI. They were condemned and executed by the laws which they
+had made and put in force against Unitarians and Anabaptists.
+
+[11] H. C. Lea, whose ill-digested mass of facts torn from their proper
+context are as representative of Spain as the accounts of a foreigner
+who had studied only the police reports of America, would be of us.
+
+[12] "L'Inquisition fût, d'abord, plus politique que religieuse, et
+destinée à maintenir l'Ordre plutôt qu'à défendre la foi," says the
+Protestant historian Guizot (Hist. Mod. Lect. II).
+
+[13] Every Spanish child knows the story of Guzmán _el bueno_ at Tarifa.
+The rebel infante threatened to kill Guzmán's son, were the city not
+surrendered, whereupon the hero flung his own knife down from the walls;
+rather the death of him he loved best than disloyalty to his trust and
+king. The boy was killed under his father's eyes.
+
+When the tomb of this national hero was opened in 1570, the skeleton
+discovered was nine feet long, just as Jaime I _el Conquistador_, a
+contemporary of Guzmán, was found to be of gigantic proportions when the
+pantheon of the Aragonese kings in Poblet was sacked in 1835.
+
+[14] "León Cathedral is indeed in almost every respect worthy to be
+ranked among the noblest churches in Europe. Its detail is rich and
+beautiful throughout, the plan very excellent, the sculptures with which
+it is adorned quite equal in quality and character to that of any church
+of the age, and the stained glass with which its windows are filled some
+of the best in Europe."
+
+G. E. STREET: "Gothic Architecture in Spain."
+
+
+[15] "Libro del Paso Honroso" written by an eye witness, Pero Rodríguez
+de Lena. Prescott says that no country has been more fruitful in the
+field of historical composition than Spain. The chronicles date from the
+twelfth century, every great family, every town and every city had its
+chronicler. Compare the minute details we have of Cortés in Mexico about
+1517, with the meager accounts we find of the North American settlers
+some generations later.
+
+[16] It is amusing to find Napier, whose "History of the Peninsula War"
+is one of the most one-sided of chronicles, laying down the law in this
+fashion: "The English are a people very subject to receive and to
+cherish false impressions, proud of their credulity, as if it were a
+virtue, the majority will adopt any fallacy, and cling to it with a
+tenacity proportioned to its grossness."
+
+[17] Frequently in Spain one comes on Irish names among the leading
+families. The O'Donnells, Dukes of Tetuán, have had several generations
+of distinguished men. In the 18th century Count Alexander O'Reilly led
+the Spanish armies in the New World and the Old, and when Governor of
+Andalusia, he so reformed economic conditions in Cadiz that a beggar was
+unknown on the streets. He too was followed by an able son. Reading
+Spanish books the traces of Irish exiles are many: thus a Doña Lucía
+Fitzgerald organized and drilled a woman's regiment during the siege of
+Gerona in 1808; and the beautiful wife of the poet Campoamor was a Doña
+Guillermina O'Gorman.
+
+    "We're all over Austria, France, and Spain,
+     Said Kelly, and Burke, and Shea."
+
+
+[18] "L'un des signes distinctifs des mystiques c'est justement
+l'équilibre absolu, l'entier bon sens." J.-K. Huysmans: "_En Route_."
+
+[19] "La Mystique est une science absolument exacte. Elle peut annoncer
+d'avance la plupart des phénomènes qui se produisent dans une âme que le
+Seigneur destine à la vie parfaite; elle suit aussi nettement les
+opérations spirituelles que la physiologie observe les états différents
+du corps. De siècles en siècles, elle a divulgué la marche de la Grâce
+et ses effets tantôt impétueux et tantôt lents; elle a même précisé les
+modifications des organes matériels qui se transforment quand l'âme tout
+entière se fond en Dieu. Saint Denys l'Aréopagite, saint Bonaventure,
+Hugues et Richard de Saint Victor, saint Thomas d'Aquin, saint Bernard,
+Ruysbroeck, Angèle de Foligno, les deux Eckhart, Tauler, Suso, Denys le
+chartreux, sainte Hildegarde, sainte Catherine de Gênes, sainte
+Catherine de Sienne, sainte Madeleine de Pazzi, sainte Gertrude,
+d'autres encore ont magistralement exposé les principes et les théories
+de la Mystique." J.-K. Huysmans: "_En Route_."
+
+[20] It has been said that there never was a spiritually minded man,
+who, knowing Saint Teresa's works, was not devoted to them. In his
+"Journal Intime," that most distinguished prelate of modern France, Mgr.
+Dupanloup, wrote: "La vie de Sainte Térèse m'y a charmé.... J'ai
+rarement reçu, dans ma vie, une bénédiction, une impression de grâce
+plus simple et plus profonde."
+
+[21] "Just as the Church of Rome has absorbed Platonism in the doctrine
+of the Logos and of the Trinity, and has absorbed Aristotelianism in the
+doctrine of Christ's real presence in the Eucharist, so we may naturally
+expect that in its doctrine of its own nature, it will some day absorb
+formally, having long done so informally, the main ideas of that
+evolutionary philosophy, which many people regard as destined to
+complete its downfall; and that it will find in this philosophy--in the
+philosophy of the Darwins, the Spencers, and the Huxleys--a scientific
+explanation of its own teaching authority, like that which is found in
+Aristotle for its doctrine of Transubstantiation.... It may be said that
+the Roman Church itself developed without being conscious of its own
+scientific character, just as men were for ages unconscious of the
+circulation of their own blood.... Like an animal seeking nutriment it
+put forth its feelers or tentacles on all sides, seizing, tasting, and
+testing all forms of human thought, all human opinions, and all alleged
+discoveries. It absorbs some of these into itself, and extracts their
+nutritive principles; it immediately rejects some as poisonous or
+indigestible; and gradually expels from its system others, condemned as
+heresies, which it has accidentally or experimentally swallowed." W. H.
+Mallock: "Doctrine and Doctrinal Disruption." 1900.
+
+[22] Moro made a replica of this portrait (or perhaps the Prado picture
+is the replica) which Mary gave to her Master of Horse. It now
+fortunately is in America, in Mrs. J. L. Gardner's notable collection in
+_Fenway Court_, Boston. It is hard to recognize in the Mary of the
+Flemish Master the queen of whom Motley wrote in his "Dutch Republic":
+"tyrant, bigot, and murderess ... small, lean and sickly, painfully
+nearsighted yet with an eye of fierceness and fire, her face wrinkled by
+lines of care and evil passions."
+
+[23] "Io cristiano viejo soy, y para ser Conde esto me basta"--old
+Spanish proverb, quoted by Sancho Panza. Proverbs, which Cervantes
+called "short sentences drawn from long experience," often show the
+qualities of a race. In many of the popular sayings of Castile is found
+the strong feeling of manhood's equality:
+
+"Cuando Dios amanece, para todos amanece."
+
+"Mientras que duermen todos son iguales."
+
+"No ocupo más pies de tierra el cuerpo del Papa que el del sacristan."
+
+[24] See the frontispiece: Portrait of an Hidalgo, by El Greco.
+
+[25] "Nunca la lanza embotó la pluma, ni la pluma la lanza,"--old
+Spanish proverb.
+
+[26] "The Hound of Heaven": Francis Thompson.
+
+[27] "Donde hay música, no puede haber cosa mala."--Spanish proverb.
+
+[28] "Spain is one of the few countries in Europe where poverty is not
+treated with contempt, and I may add, where the wealthy are not blindly
+idolized."--George Borrow: "The Bible in Spain."
+
+[29] Our Lady of Victory is the patroness of the _cigarreras_.
+
+[30] "O trois fois saints chanoines! dormez doucement sous votre dalle,
+â l'ombre de votre cathédrale chérie, tandis que votre âme se prelasse
+au paradis dans une stalle probablement moins bien sculptée que celle de
+votre ch[oe]ur!"
+
+THÉOPHILE GAUTIER: "Voyage en Espagne."
+
+
+[31] "One of the commonest types among the Greek figurines, certainly
+representing the average Greek lady, might be supposed to represent a
+Spanish lady, so closely does the face, the dress, the mantilla-like
+covering of the head, the erect and dignified carriage, recall modern
+Spain."
+
+"The Soul of Spain."--HAVELOCK-ELLIS.
+
+
+[32] The same trait is shown in the astonishingly fecund theater of
+Spain, where is found for one golden century the indelible mark of the
+race. First came Lope de Vega with his dashing picaresque comedies _de
+capa y espada_, that more induce to laughter than to vice, the vigorous
+and supple Lope, whom all nations have "found good to steal from." Then
+followed the powerful Tirso de Molina, a dramatist of vision and
+passion, and Ruiz de Alacón with his high ethical aim and equal
+execution, and finally Calderón, who in the midst of his plays shows
+himself an exquisite lyric poet. In Seville we used to see what would
+here be a dime-museum crowd pouring into an hour's bit of frolic, such
+as Benevente's "Intereses Creados," of the true cape-and-sword type.
+Those plays which we personally saw proved to us Valera's words, that
+erotic literature rises in sadness and pessimism, not in the hearty
+bravura and zest of life of the Spanish theater.
+
+[33] "Es menester mucho tiempo para venir á conocer las personas," is
+one of Sancho Panza's wise saws.
+
+[34] See "L'Espagne Littéraire" by Boris de Tannenberg (Paris, 1903).
+
+[35] "Surely chivalry is not dead!" exclaimed Lieut. R. P. Hobson when
+describing the courteous treatment he, as prisoner, had received from
+the Spanish officers: "The history of warfare probably contains no
+instance of chivalry on the part of captors greater than that of those
+who fired on the 'Merrimac.'" The gallant American's account of his feat
+in Santiago harbor proves that Spínola's spirit survives on both sides
+of the Atlantic.
+
+[36] "In Gerona Cathedral there was a cat who would stroll about in
+front of the _capilla mayor_ during the progress of Mass, receiving the
+caresses of the passers-by. It would be a serious mistake to see here
+any indifference to religion, on the contrary, this easy familiarity
+with sacred things is simply the attitude of those who in Wordsworth's
+phrase, "lie in Abraham's bosom all the year," and do not, as often
+among ourselves, enter a church once a week to prove how severely
+respectable, for the example of others, we can show ourselves."
+
+"The Soul of Spain"--HAVELOCK ELLIS (1908).
+
+
+[37] An idea of Spain's romance of soul can be gathered from the rules
+and regulations of her national police, the Civil Guard, who may be
+called the descendants of Isabella's _Santa Hermandad_.
+
+"1. Honour must be the chief motive for the Civil Guard, to be preserved
+intact and without a flaw. Once gone, honour can never be regained.
+
+" ... 3. The force must be an example to the country of neatness, order,
+bearing, good morals and spotless honour....
+
+"8. The Civil Guard ought to be regarded as the protector of the
+afflicted, inspiring confidence when seen approaching.... For the Civil
+Guard must freely give his life for the good of any sufferer.
+
+" ... 9. Whenever a member of the Civil Guard has the good fortune to
+render a service to anyone, he must never accept, if offered, a reward,
+bearing in mind that he has done nothing but his simple duty.
+
+" ... 27. The Civil Guard will refrain with the greatest scrupulousness
+from drawing near to listen to any knot of people in street, shop, or
+private house, for this would be an act of espionage, altogether outside
+the office and beneath the dignity of any member of the force."
+
+That such rules have molded her exemplary constabulary, no one will deny
+who has traveled much in Spain. They are loved and respected by the
+people; witness this popular song:
+
+    "Atenta á la vida humana
+     Siempre la Guardia Civil ...
+     Y por eso en todas partes
+     Benediciones la acompañan,
+     Por eso Dios la protege
+     Cuando al peligro se lanza,
+     Por eso la canto yo
+     Con el corazón y el alma:
+     Viva la Guardia Civil
+     Porque es la gloria de España!"
+
+
+[38] This most beautiful church, dating before the Crusades, one of the
+most ancient, with the Asturian churches, Santa María de Naranco and San
+Miguel de Lino, in all the Peninsula, was totally destroyed by the
+socialist mob, in the riots of July, 1909.
+
+[39] "El principio de la salud está en conocer la enfermedad."--Old
+Spanish proverb.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Heroic Spain, by Elizabeth Boyle O'Reilly
+
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+  The Project Gutenberg eBook of Heroic Spain, by E. Boyle O'Reilly.
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Heroic Spain, by Elizabeth Boyle O'Reilly
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
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+
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+Title: Heroic Spain
+
+Author: Elizabeth Boyle O'Reilly
+
+Release Date: March 24, 2012 [EBook #39246]
+
+Language: English
+
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+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HEROIC SPAIN ***
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+
+<hr class="full" />
+
+<p class="cb">HEROIC SPAIN</p>
+
+<p><a name="FRONT" id="FRONT"></a></p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_frontis_jpg_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_frontis_jpg_sml.jpg" width="413" height="550" alt="A Spanish Hidalgo, by El Greco" title="A Spanish Hidalgo, by El Greco" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">A Spanish Hidalgo, by El Greco</span>
+</p>
+
+<h1>HEROIC SPAIN</h1>
+
+<p class="cb">BY<br />
+E. BOYLE O'REILLY</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/ill_colophon.png" width="100" height="137" alt="colophon" title="" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="cb">NEW YORK<br />
+DUFFIELD AND COMPANY<br />
+1910</p>
+
+<p class="c">
+<small>C<small>OPYRIGHT</small>, 1910<br />
+B<small>Y</small> D<small>UFFIELD AND</small> C<small>OMPANY</small></small></p>
+
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS">
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="right"><small>Page</small></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#INTRODUCTION">Introduction: Practical Hints</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_001">1</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#ESPANA_LA_HEROICA">España la Heroica: Verses</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_012">12</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#IN_THE_BASQUE_COUNTRY_LOYOLA">In the Basque Country: Loyola</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_013">13</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#BURGOS_AND_THE_CID">Burgos and the Cid</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_033">33</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#VALLADOLID">Valladolid</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_055">55</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#OVIEDO_IN_THE_ASTURIAS">Oviedo in the Asturias</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_079">79</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#THE_SLEEPING_CITIES_OF_LEON">The Sleeping Cities of Leon</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_104">104</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#GALICIA">Galicia</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_121">121</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#SALAMANCA">Salamanca</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_142">142</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#SEGOVIA">Segovia</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_159">159</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#SAINT_TERESA_AND_AVILA">Saint Teresa and Avila</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_183">183</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#EVENING_IN_AVILA">Evening in Avila: Verses</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_212">212</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#MADRID_AND_THE_ESCORIAL">Madrid and the Escorial</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_213">213</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#TOLEDO">Toledo</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_229">229</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CORDOVA_AND_GRANADA">Cordova and Granada</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_258">258</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#VIGNETTES_OF_SEVILLE">Vignettes of Seville</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_274">274</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#A_CHURCH_FEAST_IN_SEVILLE">A Church Feast in Seville</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_293">293</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#HOLY_WEEK_IN_SEVILLE">Holy Week in Seville</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_302">302</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CADIZ">Cadiz</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_316">316</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#A_FEW_MODERN_NOVELS">A Few Modern Novels</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_326">326</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#ESTREMADURA">Estremadura</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_351">351</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#ARAGON">Aragon</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_369">369</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#MINOR_CITIES_OF_CATALONIA">Minor Cities of Catalonia</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_385">385</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#BARCELONA">Barcelona</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_395">395</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#GERONA">Gerona and Farewell to Spain</a></span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_420">420</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td><a href="#INDEX">I<small>NDEX</small></a></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_431">431</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="ILLUSTRATIONS">
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="right"><small>Page</small></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>A Spanish Hidalgo, by El Greco</td><td align="right"><a href="#FRONT">Frontispiece</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Burgos Cathedral from the Castle Hill</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_036">36</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Façade of San Gregorio, Valladolid</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_058">58</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Cathedral of León</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_108">108</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>View of Salamanca from the Roman Bridge</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_142">142</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Façade of the University Library, Salamanca</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_154">154</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Alcázar of Segovia</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_182">182</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>House of the Duque de la Roca, Avila</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_196">196</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Isabella of Portugal, by Titian<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <small>Prado Gallery, Madrid</small></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_223">223</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Tomb of Bishop San Segundo, by Berruguete, Avila&nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_256">256</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Los Seises, Cathedral of Seville</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_299">299</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>St. Francis of Assisi<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <small>A wood-carving by Carmona, Museum of León</small></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_327">327</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>A Roadside Scene in Spain</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_354">354</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>The Cathedral of Sigüenza</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_374">374</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>Cloisters of San Pablo del Campo, Barcelona</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_403">403</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>A Street Stairway, Gerona</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_420">420</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<h1><i>HEROIC SPAIN</i></h1>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"<i>Let nothing disturb thee,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="ist"><i>Nothing affright thee,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="ist"><i>All things are passing,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="ist"><i>God never changeth.</i><br /></span>
+<span class="ist"><i>Patient endurance</i><br /></span>
+<span class="ist"><i>Attaineth to all things,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="ist"><i>Who God possesseth</i><br /></span>
+<span class="ist"><i>In nothing is wanting,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="ist"><i>Alone God sufficeth.</i>"<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i6">M<small>AXIMS OF</small> S<small>AINT</small> T<small>ERESA</small><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>"All national criticism in bulk is misleading and foolish, and I look on
+the belief of Spaniards that Spain ought to be great and strong as the
+most promising agency of her future regeneration."</p>
+
+<p class="r">
+J<small>AMES</small> R<small>USSELL</small> L<small>OWELL</small><br />
+<i>As Minister to Spain, in a letter Oct. 20, 1877</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION<br /><br />
+<small>PRACTICAL HINTS</small></h2>
+
+<p class="nind">T<small>RAVEL</small> in Spain to-day is attended with little hardship and no danger
+whatever. Even if one barely knows a word of the language, it is not
+foolhardy to explore the distant provinces. Commit a few simple
+sentences to the memory and have courage in using them, for Spanish is
+pronounced just as it is spelled, with a few exceptions soon observed.
+The merest beginner is understood.</p>
+
+<p>When a trip into Spain is planned it would be well to send for
+information about the kilometric ticket to the <i>Chemins de Fer
+Espagnols</i>, 20 Rue Chauchat, Paris. They will mail you, gratis, a
+pamphlet with a map of the country, where is marked the number of
+kilometers between the cities; from this it is easy to calculate how
+large a ticket to buy. The more kilometers taken at one time, the
+cheaper it is. Thus a ticket of 2,000 k. costs 165 pesetas; one of 5,000
+k. costs 385 p., and so on. We got a 10,000 kilometric ticket for two
+people, first class, good for ten months, paying for it 682 pesetas. If
+the ticket is bought outside of Spain you pay for it in<a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a> francs, whereas
+if bought in Spain, you pay in pesetas, which are about fifteen per cent
+less than francs. Provide yourself with your photograph, and at the
+first Spanish town&mdash;Irún, if you come from Paris, and Port-Bou if from
+Marseilles&mdash;as there is always a pause of some hours on the frontier for
+the customs, it is a simple matter to buy your <i>carnet kilométrique</i> in
+the station. It is only on one or two short local lines that these
+tickets are not accepted. Unfortunately the new rail from Gibraltar up
+to Bobadilla, by way of which many tourists enter Spain, is one of these
+disobliging minor lines. In fact many who start their trip from the
+south have found difficulty in procuring a kilometric ticket till they
+reached Seville or Granada; this confuses the traveler, and makes him
+decide the ticket is too complicated for practical use. If he comes to
+visit merely the southern province of Andalusia, which is what most
+people see of Spain, with a run up to Madrid for the pictures, then,
+unless several are traveling as one family, there is little gained by
+the <i>carnet</i>, since a few hundred unused miles are sometimes wasted. But
+for the complete tour of Spain the kilometric ticket is the most
+satisfactory arrangement. Besides the reduction it makes in the fare, it
+saves the confusion of changing money in the stations. You go to the<a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a>
+ticket office before boarding a train, have the coupons to be used torn
+off, and are given a complementary ticket to hand to the conductor on
+the train. It is well to buy the official railway guide as it saves
+asking questions, for Spanish trains, though they crawl at a snail's
+pace, start at the hour announced, and arrive on the minute set down in
+the time-table.</p>
+
+<p>Thirty kilos, about sixty-six pounds, are allowed free in the luggage
+van, but for an extensive tour it is better to send trunks ahead by some
+agency, and travel with only the valises taken with you in the carriage.
+These the <i>mozo</i>, or porter, carries directly from the train to the
+hotel omnibus, which&mdash;another good custom of the country&mdash;is always in
+waiting, no matter at what hour the arrival. First class travel in Spain
+is about the same as second class elsewhere; second class is like third
+class in France, except on the express route from Paris to Madrid, and
+in Catalonia, where second class is comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>A hasty sketch of our tour may help later travelers. We entered from the
+north, by Biarritz, a far better way of seeing the country in its
+natural sequence than the usual landing at Gibraltar. One feels that the
+north of Spain, in the truest degree national, untouched by the Moor,
+has never had justice done it. If a transatlantic liner touched at one
+of the northern ports, such<a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a> as Vigo, Santander, Bilbao, it would open
+up an untrodden Switzerland with fertile valleys and noble hills. No
+pleasanter summer tour, on bicycle or afoot, could be made than through
+the Basque provinces, Asturias, the national cradle of Spain, or in
+beautiful Galicia with its trout rivers. In summer the climate is cool
+and pleasant, and the most isolated valleys are so safe that any two
+women could travel alone with security.</p>
+
+<p>Our first stop was at Loyola in the Basque country; then a week in
+Burgos; a short stay at Valladolid and Palencia; over the Asturian
+Mountains to Oviedo; back to León City, and from there across other
+hills to Galicia, seeing Lugo, Coruña, and Santiago in that province;
+from Coruña to Santiago by diligence, as no rail yet connects the two
+cities. We returned to León province from Galicia, skirting the Miño
+River which divides Spain and Portugal; stopped a night at Astorga, some
+days in Salamanca, and made a short pause in Zamora.</p>
+
+<p>Time must not be a consideration in touring these unfrequented cities of
+middle Spain, for their local trains are few and far between. Only twice
+a week is there direct communication between Salamanca and Medina del
+Campo, the junction station on the express route. But if you accept once
+for all the slowness of the trains, the occasional odd hour of arrival
+or starting, the<a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a> inconvenience of a distantly-set station, you cease to
+fret and scold as do most hurried travelers. We ended by finding the
+long railway journeys rather restful than otherwise. Usually we had the
+<i>Reservado para Señoras</i> carriage to ourselves, except on the express
+line from Paris to Madrid, and we soon learned how to make ourselves
+comfortable for a whole day's journey, seizing the chance of taking
+exercise during the long pauses in the stations, and enjoying the
+human-hearted scenes there witnessed; for a Spaniard greets and bids
+farewell with the same unconsciousness, the same absence of mauvaise
+honte as when he prays or makes love.</p>
+
+<p>Also I found the topography of the country of endless interest during
+the long train trips; to climb up to the great truncated mountain which
+is central Spain, to see how the still higher ranges of mountains
+crossed it, how the famous rivers flowed, the setting of the historic
+cities,&mdash;I never tired of looking out on it all. Somehow I have got
+tucked away a distinct picture of Spain's physical geography, no doubt
+due to the leisurely railway journeys, which are not so slow that the
+proportion of the whole is lost, as foot or horse travel would be, nor
+yet so fast as to jumble the picture, as with the express trips in some
+countries.</p>
+
+<p>Spain is not beautiful like Italy, nor of the<a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a> orderly finished type of
+England or France; she has few of Germany's grand forests. There is no
+denying she is a gaunt, denuded, tragic land; the desolation of the vast
+high steppes of Castile is terrible. Only the fringing coasts along the
+Atlantic and the Mediterranean are fertile. Nevertheless, unbeautiful as
+is the landscape, it possesses an unaccountable magnificence that grips
+the mind; we never took a night trip unless forced to it, so strangely
+interesting were the hours spent in looking from the car window.</p>
+
+<p>After Salamanca we went to Segovia, then across the Guadarramas to the
+Escorial, and slightly back north by the same mountains to Avila.
+Segovia and Avila are true old mediæval cities of the inmost heart of
+the race, <i>España la heróica</i> incarnate. Again passing through the
+hills, whose cold blue atmosphere Velasquez has made immortally real, we
+went to Madrid. From there, south, we struck the beaten tourist track
+with pestering guides and higher prices in the hotels. Up to this we had
+driven, on arrival in a town, to the first or second hotel mentioned in
+Baedeker, and the average charge had been seven pesetas a day, all
+included. The provincial hotels gave a surprisingly good table;
+excellent soups, fresh fish, the meats fair, and all presented in a
+savory way; the fact that many men of the town use the hotel as a
+restaurant has<a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a> much to do with the generous menu. The rooms were cold
+and bare, but clean, for not one night of distress did we spend during
+the eight months' tour. Of course certain modern comforts were
+completely lacking, but we were grateful enough for clean beds and
+wholesome food. The taking of money for hospitality is thought degrading
+by this chivalrous people, so the traveler should not judge them by the
+innkeeper class with whom he comes in contact. I found courtesy as a
+rule and honesty even in the inns; having valises that could not lock, I
+yet lost nothing. From Toledo on, we began to go, not to the best hotel
+mentioned in the guide book, for that now had an average charge of
+twenty-five francs a day, but we chose some minor inn, such as the Fonda
+da Lino, in Toledo, once the first hostelry in the city before the
+"Palace" variety was started for the American tourist.</p>
+
+<p>We had spent October and November in seeing the northern provinces whose
+piercing cold made us only too glad to settle for the four winter months
+in Andalusia; a day at Cordova, a fortnight in Granada, a trip to Cadiz,
+and the bulk of the time in Seville, the best city in Spain for a
+prolonged stay, though Barcelona also can offer good winter quarters. In
+April we went north into Estremadura to see the Roman remains, then
+returned to Madrid for another sight<a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a> of its unrivaled gallery, and also
+because all routes focus from the capital like the spokes of a wheel. We
+continued east to Guadalajara and Sigüenza, stopped some days at
+Saragossa, then descended by Poblet to the warm fertile coast again, to
+tropical Tarragona and that industrial anomaly in an hidalgo land,
+Barcelona. After spending some weeks there, in the beginning of June we
+left Spain by the Port-Bou frontier, stopping at Gerona on the way out.</p>
+
+<p>Thus we had seen some twenty-five Spanish cities&mdash;some twenty-five
+glorious cathedrals!&mdash;in a leisurely journey of eight months. Any spot
+along the southern fringe is suitable for the winter, any spot along the
+northern coast for the summer, but in high cold middle-Spain travel for
+pleasure must be limited to early autumn or late spring: we froze to
+death in Burgos and Salamanca during October, and again shivered and
+chattered with the April cold of Guadalajara and Sigüenza.</p>
+
+<p>As to guide books, Baedeker is as good as any, though the Baedeker for
+Spain is not equal to that firm's guides for the rest of Europe.
+Murray's "Hand-book" is more entertaining, but is rather to be kept as
+amusing literature than used as a guide book, much of it being the
+personal opinions and prejudices of Richard Ford, and bristling all over
+with slurs at Spain's religion.<a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a> It does not seem reasonable for
+English-speaking travelers to see this original country through the eyes
+of a clever but crochety Englishman who wandered over it on horseback
+eighty years ago: we should not like a European to judge America by
+Dickens' notebook dating back to the forties.</p>
+
+<p>There are two bits of advice I would give to those who would thoroughly
+enjoy traveling in the Peninsula. Pick up as soon as possible something
+of the tongue or you miss shadings that give depth and strength to the
+impression. If one knows Latin or French or Italian, it is easy to read
+Spanish. And I would beg every unhurried traveler to carry in his pocket
+the "Romancero del Cid," Spain's epic, and "Don Quixote," her great
+novel, the truest-hearted book ever written. I defy a man to while away
+a winter in Spain with <i>el ingenioso hidalgo</i> his daily companion, or
+sit reading the "Cid" above the Tajus gorge at Toledo, and not learn to
+love this virile, ascetic, realistic, exalted, and passionate land,
+where a peasant is instinctively a gentleman, where a grandee is in
+practice a democrat, where certain small meanesses, such as
+snobbishness, close-fisted love of money, are unknown.</p>
+
+<p>The second advice is to bring to Spain some smattering of architectural
+knowledge, or half the charm of lingering in her old cities is
+lost,&mdash;also is lessened one's chance to catch unaware the soul<a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a> of this
+mystic, profoundly religious race. Here I should end, as I head these
+lines of introduction with the words: <i>Practical hints</i>. And yet, just
+as it is well nigh impossible in Spain to dissociate the churches
+themselves from the religious scenes daily witnessed under their
+Romanesque or Gothic arches, so I cannot help begging the traveler,
+along with his smattering of architecture to bring a little liberality
+toward a faith different perhaps from his own, a little openness of
+mind. To one who goes to Spain in the holier-than-thou attitude, she is
+dumb and repellent,&mdash;she who can be so eloquent!</p>
+
+<p>In each of her cities is a cathedral built when faith was gloriously
+generous and untamable, and in them one feels, unless blinded by
+prejudices of early environment or birth, that here indeed man is bowed
+in the humble self-abasement of worship, here is not only æsthetic
+beauty but a burning soul; the incense, the lights, the inherited lavish
+wealth speak with the spirituality of symbols, of ritual, that utterance
+of the soul older than hymns or voiced prayer.</p>
+
+<p>This record of the journey through Spain will be called too partial, and
+yet I started without the slightest intention of liking or praising her.
+A month before going to Spain, on reading in the Bodleian Library
+certain accounts of St. Teresa, about whom I had but vague ideas, I<a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a>
+exclaimed in distress, "What a morbid mind!" I went far from
+sympathetic, but bit by bit my prejudices dropped away. With the cant
+and smug self-conceit of northern superiority, I expected among other
+jars a shock to my religious belief. And after eight months I left Spain
+with the conviction that magnificently faulty though she is with her
+bull-fights, a venal government, and city loafers, she can give us
+lessons in mystic spirituality, in an unpretentious charity, in heroic
+endurance, in a very practical not theoretic democracy.<a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="ESPANA_LA_HEROICA" id="ESPANA_LA_HEROICA"></a>ESPAÑA LA HEROICA</h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">Deep learned are the poor in many ways,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Their hearts are mellowed by sweet human pain,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And she has learned the lesson of the waifs,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">This sadly-ravaged, stern, soul-moving Spain!<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">Rugged and wild, wind-swept, and bleak, and drear,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">She has a ruined splendor all her own,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">It seizes even while you ask in fear<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The reason man should choose this waste for home.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">Her cities rise, ascetic, lofty, proud,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Forever haunted by high souls that dare,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And from her wondrous churches rings aloud<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">A heaven-storming radiance of prayer;<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">With psalm, with dance, with ecstasy's white thrill,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Her mystics dared to lose themselves in God,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Theirs was unflinching faith, fierce, <i>varonil</i>,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">A force as true to nature as the sod.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">Reward must come: perhaps from her to-day<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">May spring the needed saint, to think, to feel,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">To grope triumphantly, to point the way<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">To altars where both Faith and Science kneel.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">Upon her ashy mountain height she stands,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Eager to step into the forward strife,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Her eyes are wide with hope, outstretched her hands<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">To meet the promise of new coursing life:<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">Steadfast her cities to the desert face,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Snow mountains loom across the silent plain:<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Take courage, O exalted tragic race!<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Courage! Christ's always faithful grand old Spain!<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">Castile, 1908.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="IN_THE_BASQUE_COUNTRY_LOYOLA" id="IN_THE_BASQUE_COUNTRY_LOYOLA"></a>IN THE BASQUE COUNTRY: LOYOLA</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"The only happy people in the world are the good man, the sage, and
+the saint; but the saint is happier than either of the others, so
+much is man by his nature formed for sanctity."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Joubert.</span></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>"Whoever has been in the land of the Basques wishes to return to
+it; it is a blessed land."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Victor Hugo.</span></p></div>
+
+<p class="nind">T<small>HE</small> Basque is still one of the sturdy untouched peoples of the earth;
+they make still the unmixed aborigines of Spain. Their difficult dialect
+remains a perplexity to the etymologist, some believe it to be of Tartar
+origin. They themselves claim to be the oldest race in Europe and that
+their language came to Spain before the confusion of tongues at Babel.
+They derive their name from a Basque phrase meaning "We are enough,"
+that fittingly describes their character of self-sufficiency; the mere
+fact of being born in the province confers nobility. Life for centuries
+in the isolated valleys that never were conquered by Moor or foreign
+invader has bred in the Basque a passionate independence. He would never
+join with the neighboring kingdoms of Navarre and<a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a> León until his
+special privileges were ratified; and though these privileges were the
+important ones of exemption from taxes and military service, he
+succeeded in keeping them intact until his sympathies with the
+Pretenders in the Carlist wars lost him his ancient rights. To-day the
+Basques must pay taxes and serve in the army like the rest of Spain, but
+their soldiers are usually employed in the customs, or as aids to the
+local police. Their red cap, like the French béret, and brilliant red
+trousers are a familiar sight among the valleys.</p>
+
+<p>Of the three Basque provinces with their 600,000 people, the smallest,
+Guipúzcoa, is a good epitome of national characteristics. The sinuous
+valleys now serve as the passageway for the rushing mountain river, now
+spread out into a plain where the villages are set. Each town has its
+shady <i>alameda</i>, its plaza, and a court for playing <i>pelota</i>, a kind of
+tennis, the game of the province. There are frequent <i>casas solares</i>,<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>
+or family manor houses; one of these I remember wedged in with its
+neighbors, in Azcoitia, unnoticed by the guide book, only by chance we
+looked up and found it looming above the narrow pavement; blackened with
+age and scarred as if crashed with blows of warring times, it was a
+speaking record of old Basque life. In any other country but<a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a> Spain, the
+carelessly rich and unrecorded, such a fortress-house would be a lion in
+the district,&mdash;from this very unexpectedness Spanish travel is of
+unflagging charm. The strong primitive Guipúzcoans cling to their
+patriarchal customs. The men and boys sit before their doors making the
+cord soles used in peasants' shoes; the women in groups of twenty or
+more, wash clothes in the public trough or down by the river. The
+industry of all is unflagging. The roads are among the best built in
+Spain, along them go creaking carts, each wheel made of a solid block of
+wood bound in iron and emitting a prolonged agonizing squeak. The
+cream-colored oxen that drag them have their yokes covered with
+sheepskin, another century-old custom. The carts sometimes carry
+pigskins filled with wine, three legs in the air, and the unique casks
+are mended with a kind of pitch that lends a disagreeable flavor to the
+wine, but these highlanders will not yield an old usage.</p>
+
+<p>No sooner did we cross the <i>Puente Internacional</i> that connects France
+with its neighbors over the Bidassoa River&mdash;scene of historic
+meetings&mdash;than we found ourselves in the wooded Basque provinces of the
+northern Pyrenees. The country was fertile, the small farms cultivated
+with activity; on the hills were heavily-laden chestnut trees, in the
+valleys, orchards: we<a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a> often passed trainloads of red apples carried
+unpacked in the open cars like coal. Not far from the frontier the train
+skirted what appeared to be an inland lake surrounded by hills, when
+suddenly I noticed an ocean steamer and some fishing smacks lying at
+anchor, and looking closer I saw that a narrow passage led through the
+hills to the ocean breaking outside,&mdash;another of Spain's unheralded
+effects. This was the beautiful inland Bay of Pasajes, the port from
+which young Lafayette sailed for America.</p>
+
+<p>At San Sebastián, the most fashionable summer resort in Spain, and still
+gay with Madrid people, for the season holds till October, we saw the
+first bull-ring, a circular building of red and yellow brick in the
+Moorish style. To find a <i>plaza de toros</i> here in the north was
+disconcerting. Spain's national game has withstood the will of kings,
+Papal bulls, the dislike of a large proportion of the Spanish people who
+petitioned the Cortes in 1878 for its abolishment, and the odium of
+foreign races. Until this debased <i>cosa de España</i> is done away with it
+will remain a stumbling block to even the most sympathetic of travelers.</p>
+
+<p>At Irún, the frontier town behind us, we had taken our tickets for
+Zumárraga, two hours away. There we were to leave the railway and drive
+into the valleys to Loyola, where in an old castle<a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a> the hidalgo
+vizcaíno, Don Iñigo de Loyola, was born. Our guide book gave but the
+slightest information. It was raining drearily. With trepidation and
+sinking hearts we looked out at Zumárraga as the train drew near. Would
+this, the first night in Spain, cold and wet, be spent in some miserable
+tavern in a town of a thousand inhabitants, and perhaps the next morning
+would a rickety diligence take us up the valley? We stepped from the
+train reluctantly; at the last minute we were tempted to turn back. But
+a porter had seized our valises, and muttering something
+incomprehensible about Loyola and an automobile hurried us through the
+station. And there, beyond, stood the wonderful thing, sign manual of
+modern comfort&mdash;a great red automobile with a gallant chauffeur! We sat
+down on our luggage and burst into a hearty laugh. It began to dawn on
+us that perhaps the tour of Spain was not going to be the series of
+hardships and privations we anticipated.</p>
+
+<p>For the sum of three pesetas each (fifty-four cents) we were whirled up
+the winding valley. The mountains rose precipitously from the road and
+its accompanying river, reminding me of the valley in the Pistoiese
+Apennines that leads down to the Bagni di Lucca. In the motor diligence
+with us were a few courteous Basques; an elderly architect, with the
+finely-chiseled features<a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a> of the country, pointed out a sight here and
+there, among others the birthplace and statue of Legazpi, conqueror of
+the Philippines. I think he took us for countrywomen of his young queen,
+and, trying to emulate his politeness, we were silent as to our
+nationality; later we discovered that this was quite unnecessary, for
+there is not the slightest prejudice in Spain against the United States.
+We passed a building by the river and were told it was an electric
+power-house; almost every part of the country is now lighted by
+electricity. "You are very up-to-date!" we exclaimed. He replied by a
+shrug of delighted self-depreciation, a proud smile of conscious
+superiority aping the humble, not out of place in a Basque whose
+mysterious language Adam spoke, so ancient and difficult a tongue that
+the devil who once tried to learn it, they say, had to give up in
+despair. Our opposite neighbors in the diligence, countrymen whose loss
+of teeth made them appear aged, sought also to show some courtesy. Each
+wayside shrine was named with glistening eyes,&mdash;St. Anthony; the
+hermitage on the hill above, St. Augustine; here, St. John. One began to
+understand religion was no mere Sunday morning service with this people.</p>
+
+<p>After six miles the valley opened out and we came to Azcoitia, a town of
+some five thousand inhabitants where is manufactured the <i>bóina</i>, the<a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a>
+typical cap of the province. The automobile went slowly through the
+narrow cobbled streets, under the high houses and the cliff-like church,
+then sped over two miles of a beautiful valley, with mountain rising
+behind mountain in the evening light, and at length we reached Loyola.</p>
+
+<p>Here one of the great discoverers of new strength, of untried powers in
+the human soul, one of the holiest men of Christendom, saw the light in
+1491, the year before the discovery of America: in the life of St.
+Ignatius are several coincidental dates to give us pause. Surely it was
+to these peaceful Basque hills that his thoughts turned when, a knight
+in the worldly court that surrounded Ferdinand and his second wife
+Germaine de Foix, Ignatius in gazing at the stars would feel with sudden
+potency the pettiness of man's grandeur, and during his religious life,
+when he craved at the sunset hour to be alone to meditate, he must have
+recalled this lovely valley of his birth. With emotion I saw in the
+distance the huge quadrangle of the convent that now surrounds the
+<i>Santa Casa</i>: the thought of what this spot has given to the world, of
+the thousands of chosen souls linked to-day by one will to work for good
+in every land, can well make Loyola a place to stir the heart.</p>
+
+<p>At a little past six we left the automobile which was to run farther up
+the valley, and a porter<a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a> from the inn led us through the park the
+Jesuits have planted for the people. The <i>Hospedería de Loyola</i> was a
+large building with a porticoed entrance at right angles to the convent,
+more like a monastery than a hotel, with polished staircase and
+corridors, neat bare rooms, and a long white refectory. The table was
+excellent, one course followed another at the one o'clock luncheon and
+the eight o'clock dinner. There was fresh fish from San Sebastián (to
+which daily another motor diligence ran), there were home-made
+preserves, and we had our first taste of the universal <i>garbanzos</i><a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> of
+Spain, a chickpea shaped like a ram's head. The waitress, the first of
+many Carmens and Dolores, was a wonderful old woman who grew so intent
+on teaching us her language that she would insistently repeat the name
+of each dish she passed. She managed to convey to us by pantomime, for
+our Spanish as yet was of the meagerest, that there were eight ladies
+from Madrid in the hotel, living upstairs in retirement as they were
+making a Retreat. They had come last Saturday;&mdash;talk, talk, talk,&mdash;and
+the animated little woman gesticulated to show. Then the Retreat
+began,&mdash;did we know what "the Exercises" were? Off she walked with bowed
+head and downcast eyes. So it would be<a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a> all week. The next Monday we
+should see them, they would come to table with us, and it would be talk,
+talk, talk again. During the week we occasionally saw a lady in black,
+her head covered with a veil, cross from the hotel to the <i>Santa Casa</i>
+where the meditations were held. In the convent the Jesuits were
+conducting another Retreat attended by fifty men from different Spanish
+cities: these lived in the seminary with the priests.</p>
+
+<p>At table with us were some Spanish people of a kind the tourist does not
+usually meet. One of them, a deeply religious man from Barcelona, on his
+first visit to the <i>Santa Casa</i>, following the example of St. Francis
+Borgia, knelt to kiss the floor of the room in which the patron of the
+Basques was born. Another, an elderly woman fond of lace and jewels, and
+probably longing for the gayeties of San Sebastián, was waiting in this
+quiet spot while her daughter made the Retreat. When the eight days were
+ended we met this daughter, a beautiful girl with the charm of manner
+and quickness of intelligence that we found as a rule among Spanish
+women. The afternoon the two Retreats closed was a pleasant sight. The
+valley was fragrant from the rain, on the mountains the chalets stood
+out strangely near in the clear air. Carriages and touring-cars rolled
+up, pretty wives to fetch their<a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a> husbands to claim their wives. All were
+happy and natural, but one felt around one the atmosphere of the higher
+things of life, an exaltation that only religion can give. Religion is
+ineradicably woven into the every-day life of this race: a Spaniard is
+half mystic by inheritance. The power to understand the spiritual is not
+the gift of a few but of all. It gives to the peasant woman, to the
+uncouth lad serving Mass, an intelligence above themselves.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> Before
+the late dinner that last evening in Loyola, a tall Spanish woman with
+her four daughters automobiled over from San Sebastián; she came to join
+her husband who had been following the "Exercises." He now sat with us
+at table, a man of the grave dignity and fine presence we were later to
+meet frequently. That night when passing through the corridors we heard
+the sounds of prayer in their rooms, the wife and children making the
+responses to the man's deeper voice.</p>
+
+<p>The convent of Loyola is the center of civilization for the countryside.
+All day there is a ceaseless come and go to the church, or to the<a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a>
+<i>Santa Casa</i> for silent prayer. At one each day troops of children go to
+the door of the convent with baskets and tins, and food is given them to
+carry to the aged and decrepit of the town. An hour later some dozens of
+lads in blue smock and <i>bóina</i>, playing their ceaseless <i>pelota</i>, flock
+into the building for a half hour of <i>doctrina</i>. Then at three the young
+novices come out gayly for their ramble over the mountains and as they
+pass before the church each instantly removes his hat as walking they
+repeat together a prayer. Happy those whose formative years are passed
+in hardy discipline among these uncontaminated Basque hills! The
+peasants of the valley, when the bell sounds the hours, pause to remove
+their caps in salutation. Every morning they cross the fields from
+Azpeitia on the raised path beside the river, or they come from
+Azcoitia, two miles down the valley, to attend the morning services. No
+one who has not seen a Spanish priest's attitude of devotion can
+understand its appealing beauty. These Jesuits and their attendant young
+novices (there are about two hundred students in the seminary) approach
+the altar with solemn reverence, without a trace of self-consciousness,
+and slowly and beautifully say the Mass. "The Jesuit seems to love God
+from pure inclination, out of admiration, gratitude, tenderness, for the
+pleasure of loving Him," wrote that subtle critic,<a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a> Joubert: "In their
+books of devotion you find joy because with them nature and religion go
+hand in hand." A Basque congregation is worthy of such ministers. All
+kneel without bench or chair, the men on folded handkerchiefs, the women
+on the circular straw mats scattered over the pavement. We were
+fortunate enough to attend a late Benediction, not a customary service
+in Spain as we found later. The thrilled exaltation of the singing in
+which all joined, the aged as well as children, is impossible to
+describe. It was a triumphant full-hearted adoration trying to voice the
+inexpressible; the organ ran riot, strained to its utmost, to accompany
+the ecstatic singing.</p>
+
+<p>Every Sunday the peasants drive in from the mountains to attend the
+afternoon service, and after it they stand to chat for a placid hour on
+the wide steps of the church. Arm in arm the young girls stroll up and
+down in the park before the convent. I looked on at this scene of
+contentment that told of frugal, upright living, with the sad thought of
+France deprived of such wholesome beauty, of the peasants round the
+Grande-Chartreuse, poverty-stricken and desolate since the industrial
+monastery was closed. Happily for the future of Spain, she has at hand a
+neighbor to give her the lesson in time.</p>
+
+<p>The convent of Loyola was built by the Austrian<a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a> wife of Philip IV to
+enclose and preserve the <i>Santa Casa</i>, and it was by her presented to
+the Jesuits. The church whose dome overtops the convent is in imitation
+of the Pantheon. Unfortunately, as are most Jesuit churches in Europe,
+it was erected in a bad period, and overloaded with ornament. The
+Company of Jesus was not founded until the golden age of architecture
+was well past; Churriguera, archmaster of bad taste, was in vogue when
+they built. But at Loyola if the twisted pillars of decorated marble are
+hideous, the ample flowing staircase that leads to the church is a
+beautiful feature, reminiscent of Italian villas.</p>
+
+<p>The soul of the valley is naturally the <i>Santa Casa</i> itself, the <i>casa
+solar</i> of the saint's fore-fathers. The lower story is of rough-hewn
+stone, and once the whole building was the same, but a jealous king
+leveled the fortress-houses of the Basque nobles and the upper stories
+were rebuilt in ancient brick. Above the entrance door the arms of the
+family are carved, two wolves and a pot. The tradition is that the
+knights of Loyola were so generous to their retainers that even the
+wolves came to share their hospitality. In many of the rooms daily
+Masses are said; the four stories have been inlaid with mosaic, carved
+wood, and gold leaf, the gifts of devotees of the Basque patron. One
+room is pointed out as the saint's<a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a> before his conversion, another as
+the one in which St. Francis Borgia said his first Mass, giving up a
+brilliant career, as viceroy, admiral, Duke of Gandía by inheritance,
+favorite of Charles V, to consecrate himself to the service of the
+altar. At this memorable Mass he gave communion to one of his sons,
+married to an inheritor of the <i>Santa Casa</i>, a niece of St. Ignatius. So
+many were the communicants another day that the Mass lasted from nine to
+three. Such rare instances of Christian perfection make the ancient
+house a chosen spot.</p>
+
+<p>The story of St. Ignatius' life is told throughout his <i>casa solar</i>. On
+the staircase is a window showing him as a courtier. He was skilled in
+knightly exercises, fond of the saddle and equally fond of rich attire:
+good-looking, high-spirited, truthful, and brave, he was a favorite with
+his soldiers. The scene of his wounding at the siege of Pamplona is
+given; he lies on the ground with his leg shattered. A long year of
+convalescence followed, and we see him reading the books that wrought
+his marvelous change of heart. He sought the monastery of Montserrat,
+above Barcelona, to beg counsel of a learned man concerning the vocation
+he felt within him. His military training made him dream of forming a
+spiritual knighthood to battle for the salvation of souls: "Company of
+Jesus" is a military term.<a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a> At Montserrat he performed the vigil of the
+armor, like a true knight watching till dawn before the altar; then
+exchanging his fine robes with a beggar he went forth, "<i>el pobre ignoto
+peregrin</i>." In a cave of Manresa he lived in seclusion and prayer,
+verifying on himself in agony of spirit the knowledge which was later to
+guide the troubled souls of others who sought light. "His experience in
+this solitude was an epitome of the psychology of the saints; and it
+smote him all the more intimately because he was utterly without
+foreknowledge of the spiritual life, and fought out his fight alone,
+like the first Fathers of the Desert." In the cave of Manresa was forged
+his Excalibur (to use again the vivid phrase of Francis Thompson, own
+brother to Crashaw in his flashes of celestial intuition), there
+originated the "Spiritual Exercises," the work used to-day in the
+Retreats. "It has converted more souls to God," wrote St. Francis de
+Sales, "than it contains letters."</p>
+
+<p>Eighteen years were to pass before St. Ignatius founded his Order. They
+were years filled with wanderings in Spain and Europe, a student at
+universities, a humble but joyous pilgrim to Jerusalem. One day while he
+was reading the eighteenth chapter of St. Luke the words, "And they
+understood none of these things" brought before him with sudden force
+the realization of<a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a> his own untrained mind, the fact that he must be
+educated himself before he could help others. So at thirty this
+remarkable man began his scholastic studies in Barcelona, in Cardinal
+Ximenez's famous university of Alcalá, in Salamanca. One day, in the
+streets of Alcalá, as he was led to prison on a false accusation, the
+proud young grandee of Gandía passed him. This was the first sight
+Francis Borgia had of the man who later was to lead his life. Then
+followed some years of study in Paris. 1530 found him in London at the
+time of the agitation of Henry VIII's divorce from Catherine of Aragon,
+again a coincidence in Ignatius' life that he should visit at this
+critical moment the land soon to desert a church for which he was
+destined to raise so powerful a defense. There was another notable
+Spaniard in England then, not a humble summer student begging his way
+like the Basque hidalgo, but a scholar of Corpus Christi College,
+distinguished and lauded, to attend whose lectures the King and Queen
+used sometimes to spend a few days in Oxford. This was Juan Luis de
+Vives, born in the great year 1492, the precursor of Bacon and
+Descartes, a man of such vast erudition and impartial judgment that he
+has been called with Erasmus and the French prodigy, Budé, the intellect
+of his century. Vives stood forth courageously as defender of his
+country-woman<a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a> when the divorce question arose; he was imprisoned for a
+short time, forfeited his position and pension, and finally left England
+altogether.</p>
+
+<p>Loyola now took his degree as Master of Arts in Paris, and gathering
+round him some young men of earnest life&mdash;among them the future apostle
+and martyr in the East, St. Francis Xavier from Navarre&mdash;the memorable
+band of seven students made the vows of poverty and chastity in the
+crypt of a church on Montmartre on the Feast of the Assumption, 1534.
+Thirty years later the remembrance of that hour made one of the seven,
+Rodríguez, feel his heart swell with ineffable consolation. Literally
+these ardent souls fulfilled the letter of the Gospel for the way of
+perfection: "If thou wilt be perfect go sell what thou hast, and give to
+the poor." "If any man will come after me let him deny himself, and take
+up his cross and follow me." "Ye shall be hated of all men for my name's
+sake." Their founder with superhuman perspicacity prayed it might be so.
+The world's hate is their alembic of purification.</p>
+
+<p>Ignatius returned to Spain to arrange with Xavier's family&mdash;he also was
+of the northern mountain race of Spain&mdash;and with the kindred of three
+others of his followers. He crossed the Pyrenees by footpaths, and
+descending to his own<a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a> valley of Loyola preached down by the river in
+Azpeitia. Later in Italy the band of Montmartre met again, working in
+hospitals, preaching, and converting souls to God. It was in Venice,
+many years after his wounding at Pamplona, that Ignatius Loyola was at
+length ordained priest, and in Rome, in the church of Santa Maria
+Maggiore said his first Mass. When the projects of the small band were
+submitted to the Pope, he had the inspired wisdom to discern in humble
+beginnings a future great movement and exclaimed: "<i>Digitus Dei est
+hic!</i>"&mdash;truly the finger of God. The new Order approved, Loyola was
+elected its general; like a military company, the first law was the
+unhesitating obedience of the soldier to his leader, the unbreakable
+power that lies in many working as one. The <i>Compañía</i> spread over the
+world, reforming monasteries, giving help to the poor, persuading the
+rich to purer lives, reconciling husbands and wives. Within a few years
+Francis Borgia gave up his dukedom to join them, and his accession
+brought to the Order many Spaniards of high rank. The founder continued
+to live in Italy between Rome at the Gesù and Tivoli: he died in Rome in
+1556.</p>
+
+<p>In the <i>Santa Casa</i> we followed this remarkable life in scene after
+scene. There is a touching picture of the grown man at school among
+lads<a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a> half his age, of the crypt of Montmartre, and of the final scene
+in Rome. His face was said by St. Philip Neri to have shone with
+compelling personality. In speech he was grave and admirable, a
+never-tiring student of the Bible; that, and the "Imitation of Christ"
+were the only books he much valued. "To see Father Ignatius was like
+reading a chapter of the 'Imitation,'" they used to say of him.</p>
+
+<p>We lingered for some days in the beautiful Basque valley, following the
+winding paths among the mountains, loitering in the two little towns
+near by in the pleasant discovery of rare old windows and portals. Most
+of the houses had a picture of the Saviour on the entrance door. Each
+new-born child is brought to the parish church of Azpeitia where St.
+Ignatius was baptized, and each boy is called by his name, though only
+the eldest in a family has the privilege of using it. The saint's hymn
+is the national hymn of the Basques.</p>
+
+<p>It was a raw autumn morning when we left Loyola. The light was just
+filling the valleys as we passed the sweeping steps of the church up
+which the peasants were mounting to beg a blessing on their working
+hours. The influence of their loved patron is as vivid as if he had
+lived but yesterday, so truly can one human mind, touched by divine
+grace, with no thought of self,<a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a> in sublime earnestness, rouse mankind
+to shake off its apathy, to aspire to the highest. If only another such
+knight might arise to-day to fight the modern battle of Christianity!<a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="BURGOS_AND_THE_CID" id="BURGOS_AND_THE_CID"></a>BURGOS AND THE CID</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"The epochs in which faith prevails are the marked epochs of human
+history, full of heart-stirring memories and of substantial gains
+for all after times. The epochs in which unbelief prevails, even
+when for the moment they put on the semblance of glory and success,
+inevitably sink into insignificance in the eyes of posterity which
+will not waste its thoughts on things barren and
+unfruitful."&mdash;G<small>OETHE</small>.</p></div>
+
+<p class="nind">P<small>ASSING</small> through the fertile Basque valleys, the train mounts the
+Pyrenees by a series of skillfully-engineered tunnels. This natural
+barrier between France and Spain, is far from being the straight rampart
+of school geographies. It is a wide expanse of ramifying hills and
+intricate valleys, a jumble of mountains that explains why Spain
+remained isolated from northern Europe until the days of the railway.</p>
+
+<p>When we reached the crest of this watershed between the Bay of Biscay
+and the Mediterranean, we had a noble view of the villages far beneath.
+Around us was a strange outcrop of white rock, and the descent to
+Vitoria was barren too: with every mile the scene grew bleaker till the
+rustling woods of the Basque valleys behind seemed a dream.<a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a></p>
+
+<p>Beyond Miranda, the first town of old Castile, the desolate scene
+appeared in its full awfulness. The plain lay like brown dunes of sand,
+"as for the grass, it grew as scant as hair in leprosy." It was indeed
+the haunting landscape of "Childe Roland." Passing over this wide
+stretch, the train again mounted, this time not to cross another range
+of hills, but to climb to the great truncated mountain which forms the
+center of Spain. Three-fourths of the area of this imagined orange-laden
+land is this tragic central plateau, comprising Old and New Castile,
+León, and Estremadura. Most of the historic cities are on this bleak
+upland, almost 3,000 feet above the sea, wind-swept, wintry, and made
+still colder by the snow mountains that cross it from east to west.
+Riding for days through the monotonous scene you begin to wonder not
+that Spain should be poor, but rather that she, an agricultural land,
+should have made so good a fight against such heavy odds. The guide
+books that so harshly criticise, saying hers is a land where Nature has
+lavished her prodigalities of soil and climate yet shiftless man has
+refused her bounty, seem to forget that only one-fourth of the country
+is the traditional rich south. The fruitful provinces form but the
+fringe of the Peninsula.</p>
+
+<p>It was early October when we mounted the Pass of Pancorbo. A fierce wind
+was blowing.<a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a> It suddenly blew open the door of our compartment, and
+flung it back, smashing the glass. It was impossible to draw it to in
+the fierce gale, and this little incident added to the desolation round
+us. We looked down through the open door on the white road of the Pass,
+over which Napoleon's armies poured a hundred years before to plunder
+Spain with ruthless cruelty, and yet, so hidden is the guidance of
+things, that seeming disaster waked the country from its long abasement.</p>
+
+<p>Having reached the great central steppes, the same melancholy scene
+continued. The land was scorched and calcined. Everything was a dull
+brown. Villages were undistinguishable from the plain, and the churches
+from the villages; man, his ass, and his dog, were all the same dull
+tone. Even the brown deserts of Egypt failed to give me as powerful a
+sensation of the forsaken. The plateau was treeless, except for an
+occasional wind-threshed poplar, and an isolated moth-eaten poplar can
+be the final touch of desolation. At times, miles from any village, a
+solitary figure guided his oxen and plow in a stony field, or
+silhouetted against the sky a tandem of five or six mules slowly crawled
+along. Since the villages are far apart, each worker must leave his home
+long before dawn to reach his distant field, and after sunset plod back
+patiently to the <i>aldea</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Forlorn as it all appeared one saw that every<a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a> inch of the soil was
+under cultivation. The peasants are as attached to their cheerless
+tract, which has its one hour of green bloom in the spring, as are the
+Basques to their beautiful valleys. The fields are passed from father to
+son, and are acquired with the same zest as are teeming English farms; a
+stern soil and still sterner climate has made a peasantry full of grit
+and courage. Hardy and undepressed they gathered round the train with
+pleasant greetings, for the long pauses in the stations are moments of
+sociability from one end of Spain to another. The sad landscape
+continued up to Burgos, one might say to its very gates if it were not
+that the townspeople have planted avenues of trees near the city.</p>
+
+<p>As we approached we had a splendid view of the Cathedral towers
+dominating the town. There was something magnificent in the souls of the
+old builders who made a temple such as this in the midst of a desert, as
+if they defied the arid desolation to conquer their soaring faith. The
+great structure rose doubly impressive from the juxtaposition of
+richness and sterility, of the spirit's triumph over the material that
+makes Burgos as impressive in its way as Toledo with its more imposing
+setting.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_burgos_36_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_burgos_36_sml.jpg" width="370" height="550" alt="Copyright, 1910 by Underwood &amp; Underwood
+Burgos Cathedral from the Castle Hill" title="Copyright, 1910 by Underwood &amp; Underwood
+
+Burgos Cathedral from the Castle Hill" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption"><small>Copyright, , 1910 by Underwood &amp; Underwood</small>
+<br />
+Burgos Cathedral from the Castle Hill</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Nuestro país es el país de las anomalías</i>" says the critic De Larra,
+and the first step in Spain strikes this note. She is a land of
+violent<a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a> contrasts; level plain and broken sierra, elysian garden of
+Andalusia and tractless wastes of Castile, frosty Burgos and sunny
+Seville. She is the home of the hidalgo and home of the strongest
+existing democracy between man and man, only equaled by early Rome. It
+was in Burgos we first noticed what we later saw frequently, the
+<i>labrador</i> who drove his master's carriage, enter the inn with him and
+sit at the same table to eat, master and man alike in their dignity. She
+has a peasantry beyond praise for its virile industry, and she has a
+class of city loafers the idlest that ever encumbered a plaza. Cradle of
+exalted mystics and mother of realistic painters, this land of racy
+personalities never allows one's interest to flag.</p>
+
+<p>We spent a week in Burgos, and not once did the sun shine. The cold was
+piercing. At the corner of every street a biting wind seized and
+buffeted one about; besides being on a mountain, there are still higher
+mountains near, and snow has been known to fall in June. Wind and cold,
+however, were soon forgotten once inside the Cathedral. Our first visit
+was within the hour of arrival, at dusk when details were hidden. The
+great temple rose around us mysterious and awe inspiring. Though almost
+with the first breath of wonder came a sense of bewilderment,&mdash;what was
+this heavy wall rising some thirty<a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a> feet in the center of the church,
+that hid the altar and blocked up the nave so that only an encircling
+aisle was left free? So confusing was it I could not at first tell by
+what door we had entered, where was the east, where was the west end?</p>
+
+<p>Books of travel all tell of this placing of the choir, or <i>coro</i>, in the
+nave of Spanish cathedrals, but one can read them and imagine nothing
+like the reality. I had pictured an open platform running down the
+center of the church, whereas high walls are built round the <i>coro</i> as
+well as round the <i>capilla mayor</i>, thus making a smaller church within a
+larger one. Wherever the inner church opens on the other, they have
+placed a towering metal screen called a <i>reja</i>. A narrow passageway,
+fenced by an open rail, usually runs from the altar enclosure to the
+<i>coro</i>, and the people gather close to this, under the transept-crossing
+tower; thus, practically, the priest at the altar and the canons
+chanting in the choir are separated by the congregation. It is hard to
+make the picture clear. I feel that no explanation can prevent this
+arrangement of Spanish cathedrals coming as a surprise to the traveler.</p>
+
+<p>The evening of our first visit, we wandered round in the dusk bewildered
+by the blocking <i>coro</i>, and at length entered the chapel of St. Anne,
+where a service was going on. The side chapels of Burgos are churches in
+themselves, they often<a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a> belong to private individuals, this of St. Anne
+being, for instance, the property of the Duke of Abrantes. It was now
+crowded with people of all kinds,&mdash;officers in uniform, a few ladies in
+hats but the bulk of the women in black veils. From a small balcony on
+one side the litany was sung.</p>
+
+<p>Before the altar was what appeared to be a black covered bier, so I
+thought we must have stumbled on some special service for the dead. This
+would account for so large a gathering on a weekday, for at first one
+fails to grasp the every-day religious attitude of the Spaniard. Looking
+closer at the bier before the lighted altar a human figure was outlined
+under the dark pall. How displeasing, I thought, not to use a coffin!</p>
+
+<p>Suddenly the head of this recumbent figure unmistakably moved. With a
+shiver I looked round me. No one appeared to notice what was to me so
+terrifying, yet they were gazing over the bier at the altar. Strange
+visions floated through my imagination, made up of memories of Charles
+V's funeral before his death, and of contorted accounts of Spain and her
+ways. Perhaps it was not an unusual custom here, thus morbidly to sample
+beforehand one's own funeral service. Then, as the litanies continued,
+now the solo from the choir, now the full-voiced responses of the
+people, I realized these sweet evening melodies could hardly be the
+dirges of a burial. The supposition<a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a> of a living corpse was too bizarre
+in the midst of this composed crowd.</p>
+
+<p>I fastened my eyes on the round head of the bier, and again it moved,
+but this time so thoroughly moved that the mystery was solved. With a
+breath of relief I knew this was indeed a quiet evening service and what
+had seemed a bier was merely one of the many marble tombs before the
+altars of old churches, covered over with a dark mantle as they
+sometimes are. What I had imagined the round head of a corpse, or future
+corpse, was the veil-draped head of a living woman, seated on a higher
+chair than usual between the tomb and the lighted altar. So ended my
+first and only romantic episode in Spain.</p>
+
+<p>I mention it as showing with what vague notions of terror the average
+English-speaking tourist enters this harmless land. He comes full of the
+prejudices inherited from the days of the Invincible Armada, when a
+Spaniard was to an Englishman his satanic majesty incarnate, and this in
+an age of which Froude himself, the enthusiastic chronicler of Drake,
+says: "Perhaps nowhere on earth was there a finer average of
+distinguished and cultivated society than in the provincial Castilian
+cities."</p>
+
+<p>Strange how tenaciously we cling to disproved ideas, I thought, as the
+next day we examined the beautiful tomb of Bishop Acuña which had<a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a>
+caused my fright. Spain is as safe to-day as any civilized country. Yet
+we met two Californian ladies traveling with pistols, about as needed
+here as firearms in the lanes of Surrey or the brigand-infested hills of
+Massachusetts. Little by little the traveler who keeps an open mind
+learns that the cruel and morbid Spaniard of the popular fancy has no
+existence except in his imagination. Unfortunately there will always be
+some travelers here who see the heads on death biers move and carry away
+the gruesome tale to swell the old prejudices, who will not wait long
+enough nor look deep enough to find their living corpse a noble old
+bishop in alabaster who has lain in peace some hundred years.</p>
+
+<p>Every day of our week in Burgos found us several times in the Cathedral.
+I used to arrive for the High Mass at nine, though before daybreak until
+nine there had been many services in the side chapels; it is still the
+custom with most Spaniards to kneel in recollection every morning.
+Strangely enough, I soon grew reconciled to the clumsy <i>coro</i>. It
+enabled the people to approach close to the altar in a peaceful secluded
+spot. Here at Burgos one can kneel on the altar's very steps, beside the
+big sanctuary lamp and the silver candlesticks that rise higher than a
+man. The onlooking tourist, who often spoils Italian churches for those
+who go to pray not to sightsee,<a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a> in Spain is not permitted his ill-timed
+liberty. He can wander freely through the outer cathedral, but during
+the Mass, he cannot enter this inner temple unless he conforms to the
+accustomed usages. All must kneel at the moment of the Elevation or else
+leave. The lesson was taught us soon, for when the first morning in
+Burgos a lady near by in the chancel inadvertently began to read in her
+guide book, a verger in red plush cloak, bearing an authoritative silver
+staff, approached, and kindly but firmly showed her out.</p>
+
+<p>The richness of Spanish cathedrals at first is overpowering, that they
+are too rich and overloaded is a criticism which is quite justified, but
+it is the profusion of strength, not the cluttering of details to hide a
+weak understructure; it is a profusion that speaks the nation's
+character, her burning faith, her oriental generosity. In antique
+silver, jewels, vestments, wood carvings, tombs, they are veritable
+museums of art. A Spaniard has given generously to the church in all
+ages. Though even when prosperous he is content to live with a frugal
+simplicity hardly understood by our luxury-loving time, it is a law of
+his nature that his ideas of grandeur and of beauty should find their
+free expression in the House of God. I often had the sensation that the
+beggar kneeling in these truly royal churches<a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a> felt himself a part of
+them; his own poor home was but one side of the picture, he could claim
+this other home as well.</p>
+
+<p>It was at Burgos we first met in the churches minor features that are
+essentially Spanish. The organ pipes flare out like trumpets; the
+reredos, or <i>retablo</i>, made up of carved wood panels, rises sometimes to
+a hundred feet behind the altar; and there is the metal-work of the
+great screens or <i>rejas</i>. This last was an art <i>de propia España</i>, and
+her churches would lack half their sublimity without the massive
+fretwork of iron or brass that shuts in the richly-decked altars. At
+Burgos we especially noticed the <i>reja</i> of the Condestable chapel, with
+graceful wind-blown figures at the top. In the choir, round the lectern
+were piled ancient psalm books, some of them three feet high, their
+calfskin covers strengthened with metal claspings. The naturalness with
+which these priceless books are treated shows how happily bound to
+preceding generations, with no break of revolution and destruction, is
+this old land. This thought of the antiquity of her usages is a very
+potent one to every Spaniard, and the stranger too finds the purple
+robed canons chanting in their choir-stalls more impressive because for
+six hundred years in this same Cathedral they have intoned daily these
+same psalms.</p>
+
+<p>Another national talent is her carving in wood.<a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a> The choir-stalls here
+were a revelation. The masters of this art, Berruguete, Vigarni,
+Montañés, may not be known to the rest of Europe, but they are locally
+very famous. Their intense realism appeals to the popular mind, and
+though in later centuries this realism degenerated into the bad taste of
+hanging the statues with robes, enough of earlier art remains to make
+one overlook these lapses. Should not a poet be judged by his best
+lines? Why must an image in wig and jewels blind one to the remarkable
+carved statues found side by side with it?</p>
+
+<p>The wood carvers of Spain speak the same language of sincerity as the
+mystic writers, and a knowledge of Luis de León, St. John of the Cross
+and St. Teresa, makes one better appreciate the sculptors. Not that they
+too are mystical. They do not soar so high. It is only a few chosen
+souls here and there through the centuries who can walk that perilous
+path, and probably they can express themselves only through the more
+intangible medium of speech. But these wood carvings are the fruit of
+men who understood the mystics and who worked in a like spirit of
+intense faith. I should say it was not in her paintings that the
+religious essence of this race was to be found, not in the somewhat
+posing monks of Zurbaran, nor in the gentle religiosity of Murillo's
+madonnas. Though a master of color, Murillo<a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a> is too often akin in spirit
+to Carlo Dolce and Sassoferrato. It is the fashion to call these
+typically religious painters. But in the carved biblical scenes of
+<i>retablo</i> and <i>sillería</i> is shown more truly the inner spiritual
+intelligence of the serious Spaniard. Velasquez spoke for the reality of
+his time, its chivalry, its material force; and these masters of wood
+carving in more halting speech expressed the religious aspirations of
+the people. They worked with a realism that is often painful, yet the
+intensity with which they felt the scenes they depicted links them with
+the mystics. The wood carvings have not had justice done them, perhaps
+because they are for the most part painted, which certainly detracts
+from them. Fortunately choir-stalls were left in the natural wood, those
+at Burgos being a rich dark walnut with the polish that time only can
+give. We spent many happy hours studying this twelve years' work of the
+sculptor Vigarni. The seats are carved with grotesque, fantastic
+creatures, half man, half beast, the arm of the chair now made by an
+acrobat bent double backward, now by a monster with a tail in his mouth,
+or some bat-like demon. There is a frieze of Old Testament scenes too
+high to be well seen, but below them the New Testament story is told
+from the Annunciation to the Doubting Thomas after the Resurrection.
+Though the simpleness of earlier<a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a> times is shown in the miniature devil
+that passes from the possessed man's lips, and in Mary Magdalene's
+dropped jaw of surprise when she meets her risen Lord, these carvings
+are not merely curious, they are soul-touching and beautiful. The type
+of face is the high-boned one the Spaniard prefers, with well-cut brows
+and aquiline nose. Notice the solemn beauty of Christ's face in the <i>qui
+ci ne pecato</i>. In the panel, the blind cured, seldom has the expression
+of absolute faith been better rendered than in the raised face of the
+old blind man. Do not pass by the Garden of Gethsemane with the three
+Apostles lying heavily asleep, the human shrug of the shoulder and
+outstretched hand of the Master: "Could ye not watch with me one hour?"</p>
+
+<p>While the Cathedral of Burgos shows much florid later work, especially
+the central tower and that of the Condestable chapel, under the too
+ornate additions the ancient purer church is plainly perceptible. It
+belonged to the Gothic of the Northern-France type, for pilgrims to her
+shrines and to fight in her crusades, brought foreign ideas to Spain at
+so early a date that it is useless to speculate about what a native
+architecture might have been.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the smaller churches of the town are worth visiting, such as San
+Nicolás, with a stone <i>retablo</i> which is a tour de force of handicraft;<a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a>
+San Lermes, and facing it the hospital of San Juan, where we first met
+the escutcheoned doorways of Spain, which, if kept within bounds, are
+arrogantly effective and national. Throughout the city are good examples
+of domestic architecture, such as the Casa del Cordón, built by the
+Constable of Castile, Don Pedro Fernández de Velasco, whose sumptuous
+tomb lies in the center of the Condestable Chapel, and whose pride as a
+Castilian speaks in the family proverb:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"<i>Antes que Dios fuese Dios,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="ist"><i>O que el sol iluminaba los peñascos,</i><br /></span>
+<span class="ist"><i>Ya era noble la casa de los Vélascos.</i>"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>"Before God was God, or the sun shone upon the rocks, already was the
+house of Velasco noble."<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> Above the entrance to his house the girdle
+of St. Francis connects his arms with those of his wife, as proud as he,
+for she was a Mendoza. One rainy afternoon we spent in the <i>Museo</i> over
+the Gateway of Santa María, and there, step by step, traced Spain's art
+history,&mdash;statues from the former Roman city of Clunia in<a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a> this
+province, a remarkable enameled altar-front of the Byzantine period,
+Romanesque and Gothic relics from the monasteries out on the plains, a
+Moorish arch found <i>in situ</i>, and tombs of that transition time from
+Gothic to Renaissance which in Spain was so flourishing a phase of art.</p>
+
+<p>Much as there is to hold one in the town, the bleak uplands outside have
+a desolate fascination that calls one out to them. There is an excursion
+to be made not far away to the Monastery of Miraflores, where Isabella
+built for her parents "the most perfectly glorious tomb in the world."
+Personally I prefer the quieter art of a Mino da Fiesole to this work of
+Gil de Siloe, rich though it is. The tomb is white marble, octagonal in
+shape, with sixteen lions supporting it. The weak Juan II lies by the
+side of his queen, who is turned slightly from him to read in her Book
+of Hours, in a natural attitude, as if she said pleasantly, "Now do be
+silent, I must read in peace for a few minutes." At Miraflores is a
+wooden statue of St. Bruno, with a keen and subtle face of the same
+ascetic type as that of the young monk we watched praying quite
+oblivious of the gaping tourists. It is of this statue that Philip IV
+remarked: "It does not speak, but only because he is a Carthusian monk."
+The indifference to strangers in the mystic young penitent before the
+altar was our second meeting with<a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a> a trait found in the average
+Spaniard. He does not care an iota what the stranger thinks of him. He
+is not like the Italian, inclined to put his best foot forward. He will
+not change his ways because they are criticised; you can admire or you
+can dislike, it makes little difference to him; and this quiet poise, in
+peasant as well as grandee, is not fatuous, for its root lies in an
+innate self-respect. He feels he is loyal to his God, to his King, and
+to himself,&mdash;what better standards can you have?</p>
+
+<p>Avenues of trees lead out to another house of the Benedictine rule, a
+convent for nuns founded by the sister of Richard C&oelig;ur de Lion. Many
+ladies of the royal line have retired to Las Huelgas, the nuns brought
+their dowries, and the mitered abbess held the rank of
+Princess-Palatine, with the power of capital punishment. The church has
+outside cloisters for the laity; the cloisters within the convent are
+never seen except on the rare occasions of a king's visit, when all who
+are able crowd in at the moment he enters. We were standing before the
+chancel where so many knights had performed the vigil of the
+armor&mdash;among others Edward I of England was knighted here&mdash;when a nun
+entered the <i>coro</i>, and in her trailing white robes bowed toward the
+altar&mdash;rather it was the slow courtesy of a court lady. We shrank away
+with the feeling that we had intruded uninvited on a ceremony, that the<a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a>
+days of the abbess, Princess-Palatine, were the reality and we,
+inquisitive guide-book tourists, the anacronism, a sensation not
+uncommon in Spain.</p>
+
+<p>Burgos is the birthplace of the national hero, the Cid Campeador, "God's
+scourge upon the Moor." This contemporary of William the Conqueror, whom
+the erudites of the eighteenth century tried in vain to prove a mythical
+character,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> may be said to dominate Spanish literature. Spain's epic,
+the "Romancero del Cid," has made its hero the historic Cid for all
+time, just as Shakespeare's genius vitalized a Henry V. Don Roderick
+Díaz de Bivar was born under the castle hill of Burgos in 1026, some
+small monuments standing on the site of his <i>casa solar</i>. He was a
+champion of popular rights, generous, chivalrous, faithful ever to his
+wife Jimena, a true guerrilla warrior, like the men of his age,
+sometimes crafty and cruel. The Cid was every inch a man, as his fellow
+countrymen are eminently <i>varonil</i>, his hold on the heart of the people
+is secure. There are no poems in the world whose lines ring and clang
+more valiantly than the "Romancero."<a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a> Here is untamed red blood and
+courage:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"With bucklers braced before their breasts, with lances pointing low,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">With stooping crests and heads bent down above the saddle-bow,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">All firm of hand and high of heart, they roll upon the foe.<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And he that in a good hour was born, his clarion voice rings out,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And clear above the clang of arms is heard his battle-shout,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">'Among them, gentlemen! Strike home for love of charity!<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The Champion of Bivar is here&mdash;Ruy Díaz&mdash;I am he!'<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Then bearing where Bermúez still maintains unequal fight<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Three hundred lances down they come, their pennons flickering white;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Down go three hundred Moors to earth, a man to every blow;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And when they wheel, three hundred more, as charging back they go.<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">It was a sight to see the lances rise and fall that day;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The shivered shields and riven mail, to see how thick they lay;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The pennons that went in snow-white came out a gory red;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The horses running riderless, the riders lying dead;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">While Moors called on Mohammed, and 'St. James' the Christians cry."<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a></p>
+
+<p>Wandering minstrels sang these <i>chansons de gestes</i> for centuries, till
+they were a very part of the nation. The wooing of Jimena is strong with
+the unconscious vigor of those times. The Cid had slain her father in
+combat:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"But when the fair Jimena came forth to plight her hand,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Rodrigo gazing on her, his face could not command;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">He stood and blushed before her; then at the last said he,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">'I slew thy sire, Jimena, but not in villany:<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">In no disguise I slew him, man against man I stood,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">There was some wrong between us, and I did shed his blood.<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">I slew a man, I owe a man; fair lady, by God's grace,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">An honored husband thou shalt have in thy dead father's place.'"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And to the end the free-lance warrior proved a gallant husband. The
+ballad of their wedding feast was often in my mind in the silent streets
+of Burgos.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Within his hall of Burgos the king prepares the feast,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">He makes his preparation for many a noble guest,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">It is a joyful city, it is a gallant day,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">'Tis the Campeador's wedding, and who will bide away?<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">They have scattered olive branches and rushes on the street,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And the ladies flung down garlands at the Campeador's feet,<a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a><br /></span>
+<span class="ist">With tapestry and broidery their balconies between,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">To do his bridal honor, their walls the burghers screen.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">They lead the bulls before them all covered o'er with trappings,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The little boys pursue them with hootings and with clappings,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The fool with cap and bladder upon his ass goes prancing<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Amid troops of captive maidens with bells and cymbals dancing."<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The old poet must have written with his eye straight on his subject;
+those eleventh century urchins baiting the bulls are startlingly
+realistic. When the Cid died, at Valencia, in 1099, still called on the
+maps Valencia del Cid, he was placed in full armor on his battle horse,
+Bavieca, and brought to San Pedro de Cardeña, eight miles from Burgos.
+Thither Jimena retired, and on her death was laid with her husband. The
+faithful horse, famous in the "Romancero" as Jimena herself, was buried
+under a tree of the convent near his master. For the Cid had left word,
+"When you bury Bavieca, dig deep. For shameful thing were it that he
+should be eaten by curs who hath trod down so much currish flesh of
+Moors." To-day Bavieca's master does not lie in the quiet dignity of San
+Pedro. After various vicissitudes his remains are kept in a chest in
+the<a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a> city hall of Burgos, not the most appropriate of sepulchers for a
+national hero.</p>
+
+<p>On the last day of our stay in the old Gothic city, we climbed the hill
+from which it doubtless got its name, Burg, a fortified eminence. The
+castle where the Cid was married is a complete ruin, for when the French
+evacuated the fort in 1813 they blew it up. On every side stretched the
+level melancholy plain, and silhouetted against it was the elaborate
+stone lace-work of the Cathedral. For long I looked out on the
+remarkable landscape, so far from beautiful yet so thought arousing.
+Little by little I was learning how a race can be ascetic to its inmost
+core yet express itself in grandiose architecture; exalted in soul yet
+the most realistic people in Europe; serious and dignified, yet
+childlike in their zest of life. Here was man in his unsubtle vigor, not
+so liberal that he had no creed left, not so polished that he had lost
+the power of first wonder and emotion. Life was lived here, not analyzed
+and missed.<a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="VALLADOLID" id="VALLADOLID"></a>VALLADOLID</h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"They have no song the sedges dry<br /></span>
+<span class="i6">And still they sing,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">It is within my heart they sing as I pass by,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Within my heart they touch a spring,<br /></span>
+<span class="i6">They wake a sigh,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">There is but sound of sedges dry<br /></span>
+<span class="i6">In me they sing."<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i10">G<small>EORGE</small> M<small>EREDITH</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">F<small>ROM</small> Burgos to Valladolid the monotonous Castile plain continued,
+unbroken by any hill and hardly a tree. Yet evening on the level steppes
+has a charm of its own. Like sunset at sea, nature has a free sweep of
+canvas on which to paint her pageant; details eliminated, the essential
+remains. One carries away many such memories from the silent plateau,
+till little by little the affection of the grave Castilian for his home
+is understood.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Burgos there had occurred an amusing station scene. The man
+at the ticket office told us we could not start till the following day,
+as the train, on the point of arriving, was already full. So in
+discouragement we turned back to the distant hotel. Half way there a
+messenger<a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a> from the station overtook us to say they had telegraphed
+ahead that there would be a few seats in the second class. We returned
+in time to board the packed train, and since it was the express to
+Madrid the second class carriages were excellent. As was the custom all
+over Spain, the hotel bus at Valladolid was waiting, and drove us
+immediately to the inn, where we had the usual bare but clean rooms, and
+the usual well-cooked generous dinner: if the trains were to pick us up
+as they chose, at any rate we were not going to starve or be eaten
+alive.</p>
+
+<p>It is well to have the first view of Valladolid by night as we did,
+under an early moon, for in the daytime it is modern, flat, and
+unpicturesque, a sharp contrast to Burgos. The moonlight soon tempted us
+out to explore the town. In the Plaza Mayor all was animation, an
+unbroken promenade of people under the arcades before the gay shops,
+officers in bright uniforms, and ladies in Parisian hats; it might have
+been any provincial city in Europe. Apart from this active lung of the
+town, the quiet streets were so deserted that our footsteps roused a
+startling echo. We passed under the huge fragment of the Cathedral, a
+nave only; the transepts stand roofless, and a new ruin is as depressing
+a thing as there is in life. The architect of the Escorial who designed
+this, Herrera, gave his name to the pseudo-classic<a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a> style, "art made
+tongue-tied by authority," that followed the Plateresque abuse of
+ornament, just as his in turn was succeeded by the fantastic prancing
+art of Churriguera, again a reaction. An example of this last, the
+University, stood in the square near the Cathedral, and even the kindly
+moonlight could not soften the overladen meaningless mass; the cold
+severe lines of Herrera were dignified and regrettable in comparison.
+For me a Churrigueresque building is the ne plus ultra of bad taste in
+architecture, and Spain has a wealth of them. That man can raise a
+Santiago and a León, and some four hundred years later a San Isidro of
+Madrid, that the same race can carve a Pórtico de la Gloria and the
+Transparente of Toledo, show interesting possibilities of retrogression!
+Alas! we thought, after the strong old Gothic of Burgos, is Valladolid
+going to be just barren like its Cathedral and chaotic like its
+University? We went on in the moonlight and came to a white gleaming
+plaza where a church of the thirteenth century stood isolated, Santa
+María la Antigua, with a beautiful Lombard tower, and also that feature
+peculiar to Romanesque art in Spain, an outside cloister for the laity.
+This was decidedly better.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning when we came to explore the town, though we found no
+Gothic, we had our first introduction to a phase of architecture which<a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a>
+is confined to the Peninsula. It coincided with Isabella's reign, and
+was a characteristic outburst of its new wealth and conquests,
+appropriately efflorescent and grandiose, though if carried one step
+beyond it would be decadent. This short period is called Plateresque,
+from <i>platero</i>, silversmith, for its elaborate surface decoration of
+scrolls, medallions, and heraldic ornament is sublimated smith's work.
+It occurred during the transition from Gothic to Renaissance, so it
+combined itself with either one or the other of these styles. It may be
+dull to give these pedagogical details and yet, as I hinted, if one is
+to understand Spain, one must have some smattering of architecture.
+Valladolid is worth stopping to see on one's entrance to Spain, if it
+were only for the clear-cut summary it gives of the different schools,
+always excepting Gothic. As it and Salamanca were the two places where
+the silversmith's art flourished, so they are the two centers for the
+best Plateresque buildings. They happen to be, unfortunately, the two
+cities that suffered most from the French invasion. Their churches and
+colleges were pillaged and battered, and though in modern times they
+have been restored, the first touch of perfection, "the first fine
+careless rapture" can never be recaught.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_valladolid_58_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_valladolid_58_sml.jpg" width="376" height="550" alt="The Façade of San Gregorio, Valladolid" title="The Façade of San Gregorio, Valladolid" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">The Façade of San Gregorio, Valladolid</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Valladolid has three notable examples of Plateresque, San Pablo, San
+Gregorio, and the<a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a> Colegio de Santa Cruz. If you have a weakness for
+the art of the builder this introduction to the rich and admirable
+expression of Spain at the zenith of her material power is an occasion.
+There is an excitement in coming on something original which has not
+been hackneyed by photograph. Thus, when I first entered the square
+where San Pablo's façade rises, I stood still in astonishment; I had
+never seen anything like this, and at first I could not tell if I liked
+it or not. Tier on tier soared the carved shields and crests, bizarre
+but nevertheless stately. Close by was the even stranger façade of San
+Gregorio, one vast crest with elaborate arabesques and statues. Being
+founded by the great primate of Toledo, Cardinal Ximenez, it was
+appropriate to meet here in the courtyard with some Mudéjar work,
+Christian and Moorish elements combined. It was in this convent that the
+Dominican, Bartolomé Las Casas, "Apostle of the Indians," spent the last
+twenty years of his energetic, troubled life, writing his history of the
+Colonies. He died at the advanced age of ninety-two, "A man who would
+have been remarkable in any age of the world," says Ticknor, "and who
+does not seem yet to have gathered in the full harvest of his honours."
+The third of the Plateresque buildings, well within Renaissance lines
+this last, the College of the Holy Cross founded by Cardinal<a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a> Mendoza,
+now contains a grammar school, a library of some thousand volumes open
+to the public, and the Museum of the city.</p>
+
+<p>On no account should the <i>Museo</i> be missed, for it holds a wonderful
+collection of wood carvings, an art which is to Spain what Italy's
+frescoes are to her: these statues were gathered chiefly from convents
+sacked by the French. Valladolid was personally associated with this
+national development, for most of the master-carvers lived at one time
+or another in the city. Spain's best sculptor, Berruguete, worked for
+years for the monks of San Benito, the <i>retablo</i> of whose church is now
+in detached statues in the museum. He had studied under Michael Angelo,
+and though he had a distinct personality of his own, he plainly showed
+Italian influence. His pupil, Esteban Jordán, lived here, also the
+exaggerated Juan de Juní, and a more famous master, Alonzo Cano, painter
+and architect too. Cano, who died a canon in Granada Cathedral, is said
+to have fled the town&mdash;his house is still pointed out&mdash;when accused of
+the murder of his wife, though later investigations have thrown doubt on
+the whole story. This irascible master, one of the warmest hearted of
+men underneath, taught drawing to the Don Baltasar Carlos whom Velasquez
+painted, and I fear the infante found him very cross at times. Velasquez
+and Cano were friends and must have<a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a> talked over that charming little
+prince. Cano was indeed a character. When a corporation demurred at the
+price of a statue he had made for them he shattered the image with a
+blow; and on his death bed he could not bring himself to kiss an
+inartistic crucifix, saying, "Give me a plain cross that I may venerate
+<i>Jesucristo</i> as he is pictured in my own mind."</p>
+
+<p>The room of coarsely-carved statues, formerly used in the Holy Week
+processions, should be passed with a glance, but the collection of
+smaller works deserves long study. The most beautiful group I thought
+was the Baptism in the Jordan by a later carver, Gregorio Hernández, of
+Galicia, who died in Valladolid in 1636. His art is not classic, indeed
+most Spanish sculptors cared little for the ideal perfection of the
+human body, their strength lay in the individual portrait, not in
+rendering a type. Hernández softened the crudity or the realist school
+to which he belonged by depicting nobility of face and bearing. The
+scene of the Jordan is a panel with the two chief figures life-sized in
+full relief. The Baptist, his well-modeled limbs strong from life in the
+desert, leans forward to pour the river water on the head of his Lord,
+with an expression of such vivid rapture and awe that it holds you
+spellbound. There is little in art that can surpass this in emotional
+sincerity. The story of the Gospel is told to its fullest<a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a> possibility.
+What the sculptor felt in every fiber he has succeeded in making others
+feel, and though an expression so poignant may not be highest art, it
+justifies itself by its direct appeal to the human heart. It is told of
+Hernández that he never undertook a work till he had first prayed. He
+has here also a statue of St. Teresa, spoiled by the heavy paint, and a
+bust of St. Anne, successfully colored. Even if you are prepared to find
+the wood carvings painted it frets you; it almost spoils the statues,
+but it was the custom and must be accepted. "<i>Es la costumbre</i>" is a
+closing argument in a country whose link with the past has never been
+rudely broken.</p>
+
+<p>If her remarkable wood carvings come as a surprise, so will some of the
+practical developments of this small progressive city. The hospital that
+looks out on the leafy park of the Magdalena is run in approved modern
+fashion. A brisk young doctor who spoke English, having learned from a
+friend in the English College here, showed us over the wards with
+legitimate pride. They radiated from a big central rotunda; on both
+sides of each ward were large windows and at the end of each a pretty
+altar. There were five hundred public beds, and private rooms were to be
+had for the sum of two dollars a week! The greeting between doctor and
+patients was a pleasant thing to see,&mdash;he chatted and joked with the
+children,<a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a> and, as we left, stopped at the door to lift with real
+kindness an ill man who had just arrived in a gayly-painted country
+cart. The newcomer was a gentle-faced Castilian, whose sons had brought
+him in from the plains; as the stalwart boys carried the trembling old
+man I thought of another touching hospital scene. Perhaps Rab and his
+friends came to my mind because bounding round us on our visit to the
+hospital was a beautiful Scotch collie. "Laddie" was an unfamiliar sight
+on a Spanish street; he belonged to the English College and is a great
+pet of the seminarians.</p>
+
+<p>In Valladolid are two foreign institutions: the Scotch college, founded
+by a Colonel Semple in 1627; and the English, which continues the
+foundation of St. Albans, and has relics of its name-saint of the third
+century. It was endowed in Spain by Sir Francis Englefield, who retired
+here after the execution of Mary Queen of Scots. Some forty English
+students are educated for the priesthood and return on their ordination
+for work in their native land. Naturally the great hour of this college
+was during the religious persecutions under Elizabeth, when it was death
+to be a priest in England. Twenty-seven from this one small group were
+executed. Their portraits hang along the cloisters: Cadwallader, Stark,
+Bell, Walpole, Weston, Sutheron,&mdash;each of the<a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a> heroic band started from
+these quiet halls to meet a martyr's death.</p>
+
+<p>Controversy is out of date, I hope, to-day. But there is such a thing as
+fair-mindedness, and a visit to Spain at every step shows she has not
+had her share of it from English-speaking peoples. With every chapter of
+our guide book railing at the Inquisition, I could not help feeling that
+these martyred Englishmen should not be so completely forgotten. Not
+that the <i>tu quoque</i> argument excuses persecution on either side. But an
+age should be judged by its own ethics or true views of history are
+impossible. The New Englanders who, two hundred years later than
+Isabella's institution, hanged a few Quakers on Boston Common were none
+the less moral men; and General Robert E. Lee fighting for slavery in
+the nineteenth century is a man we have a right to admire. The mere fact
+of the Inquisition being founded by that magnanimous woman called by
+Bacon "an honor to her sex and the cornerstone of the greatness of
+Spain" should tell us its motives were sincere. Her age had not yet
+learned the lesson, which we have acquired slowly, bit by bit through
+experience, that political or religious existence is possible with
+divided factions, not only possible but that a nation is more vigorous
+because of them. As Bishop Creighton wisely says: "The modern conception
+of free discussion<a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a> and free thought is not so much the result of a
+firmer gasp of moral principles as it is the result of the discovery
+that uniformity is not necessary for the maintenance of political
+unity." Isabella's age agreed that persecution was necessary to preserve
+Christianity. And since only Spain was in immediate contact with Islam,
+and centuries of crusade against the invading infidel had the natural
+result of making the Spaniard sternly orthodox, it was there that the
+Inquisition flourished.</p>
+
+<p>It dragged on for over three centuries, and from 1481 to 1812, 35,000
+people were burned,<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> these numbers being Richard Ford's, to whom the
+Inquisition was as a red rag to a bull. The German scholar Schack
+acknowledges that all the Moors and heretics burned in Spain by the
+Holy<a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a> Office do not equal the women witches burned alive in Germany
+during the seventeenth century alone. In France, in the one night of St.
+Bartholomew, almost as many victims fell as during the whole three
+hundred years of the Inquisition. Of England the publishing of recent
+investigations makes it needless to speak; blood flowed in torrents
+there. Besides those well known ones who met death under Mary Tudor, the
+Catholic martyrdoms give such details as the "Scavenger's Daughter,"
+that cramping circle of iron; "Little Ease," where a prisoner, could not
+sit or stand or lie down; needles thrust under the nails; the
+rack-master of the Tower boasting he had made Alexander Briant longer by
+a foot than God had made him; the general custom of cutting down the
+victim from the gallows while still alive to tear out his heart and
+quarter him,&mdash;accounts that put the <i>Autos da Fé</i> in the shade. In the
+annals of Spain is not a scene that equals the blood curdling horror of
+the martyrdom in Dorchester, England, of Hugh Green in the year 1642.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>
+Yet an Englishman, a Frenchman, a German, if fanaticism or cruelty are
+mentioned, makes his inevitable trite reference to the Spanish<a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a>
+Inquisition. It has been made the scape-goat of all religious
+persecution. Abuse has so fixed the idea that it was a barbarous machine
+controlled by contorted natures to whom bloodshed was a revelry that any
+effort to place it in a truer light is sure to be called retrogression.
+I am far from attempting a defense of this painful aberration of the
+Christian mind, but what I hold is, if a student went to the records of
+Alcalá and Simancas, open free to all, not to search out the hundred
+mistaken cases from the ten thousand proven ones, the method up to this,
+but, following the first law of intellectual work, investigation without
+preconceived bias, if he tried to understand this phase of man's slow
+development <i>per errorem ad veritatem</i>, then the thin-lipped,
+gleaming-eyed, bloodthirsty Inquisitor of the popular fancy would be
+taken from the pillory where he has been pelted these centuries past,
+and his mistaken sincerity stand justified by the conditions of his
+time.</p>
+
+<p>The records prove that the Holy Office was used seldom against scholars
+but against relapsed Mohammedans and Jews, false <i>beati</i>, sorcerers, and
+witches. "<i>Ningún hombre de mérito científico fué quemado por la
+Inquisición</i>," is the clear statement of one of the greatest of living
+scholars, Menéndez y Pelayo, and he who would cross swords with that
+erudite champion must be sure<a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a> indeed of his assertions. Not one Spanish
+thinker or statesman, such as Bishop Fisher, Sir Thomas More, the
+Carthusian priors, Houghton, Webster, and Laurence, the poet Robert
+Southwell, the scholarly Edmund Campion, and a host of others,<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>
+graduates of Oxford and Cambridge, executed for their faith during the
+hundred and fifty years of religious persecution in England, not one man
+of like standing was put to death in Spain. Had he been, some righteous
+hater of the "ferocious Inquisitors," would ere this have produced his
+name and works. Archbishop Talavera was accused but was finally
+justified; if the poet Luis de León was imprisoned, he was set free on
+examination. It was not his own countrymen but Calvin in Geneva, who had
+the Spanish scholar, the Unitarian, Miguel Servet burned alive, and it
+was the mild Melanchthon who wrote to the reformer saying: "The Church
+owes thee gratitude. I maintain that the tribunal has acted in
+accordance with justice in having put to death a blasphemer." In Germany
+at that period the civil courts inflicted capital punishment on sorcery,
+blasphemy, and church robbery; had the<a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a> same law held in Spain the
+number of the Inquisition executions would be appreciably lowered. Lord
+Bacon, who was a just and humane man, mentions as a matter of course
+that in his time the English civil courts used torture: the Peninsula
+was not ahead of its time in this respect.</p>
+
+<p>As for that debated subject the effect on the Spanish character of the
+<i>Santo Oficio</i>, prejudices have built up so twisted a labyrinth that the
+best way out for one who would keep his level-headed balance is to hold
+fast to the thread of internal evidence. Unconscious of writing history
+for the future, hence his unassailable veracity, Cervantes tells in
+detail of the life in court and tavern, in the town and on the desolate
+highways after the Inquisition had flourished for more than a century.
+Does he portray a degraded race, finger on lips whispering, "Hush, or
+you will be overheard"? If the Spaniard was ground down in fear and
+deceit why is it that to-day, of all the peoples of the continent, he is
+the most independent in character? It has been said that a burgher of
+Amsterdam does not differ more from a Neapolitan, than a Basque from an
+Andalusian, yet in this trait of sturdy independence all Spaniards are
+alike; the historian Ticknor wrote during his stay in Spain, "The lower
+class is, I think, the finest <i>material</i> I have met in Europe to make a
+great and generous<a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a> people." If under the Inquisition "every
+intellectual impulse was repressed,"<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> how dared theologians and
+philosophers, such as Vives, Isla, and Feijóo boldly attack with their
+pens superstitions and degenerated religious customs? Is the poetry of
+Juan de la Cruz, Luis de León and the prose of Teresa, the work of souls
+who feared to adore their God freely? And is it not undeniable that the
+two golden centuries of Spanish art and literature flourished under this
+bugbear horror, this "<i>coco de niños y espantajo de bobos</i>," as Menéndez
+y Pelayo calls it?</p>
+
+<p>Used chiefly against Judaism and Islamism, occasionally the Inquisition
+became the tool of a tyrannic king for private vengeance. Indeed, there
+are some historians such as von Ranke, Lenormant, de Maistre, who hold
+it to have been more a royal than an ecclesiastic instrument, fostered
+by the Hapsburgs to augment their autocratic rule.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> Certainly all
+confiscated property went to the Crown.</p>
+
+<p>Man's slow development <i>per errorem ad veritatem</i>, slow indeed one may
+say, in the face of certain realities of our own time. Happily the<a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a>
+generations of cant and holier-than-thou are passing, and we are looking
+history more honestly in the face. It is dawning on us that religious
+persecution in 1492 is no more frightful than slavery in 1860 or an
+Opium War in 1843.</p>
+
+<p>Modern Spain realizes the wrong of persecution, the farce of a religion
+of love using the sword, as thoroughly as does every other civilized
+country. Outside the church of St. Philip Neri in Cadiz is a tablet
+proudly commemorating the abolition of the Inquisition within its walls
+in 1812.</p>
+
+<p>To return to less nettlesome themes. The little English College, so
+interesting a memorial of past history, a forgotten haven of refuge in
+Old Spain, must be a peaceful memory to look back on by priests whose
+later lives are spent in Birmingham or London slums. The pleasant
+sitting-room of each inmate, the recreation hall with its theater, the
+library, with the latest English books jostling old Spanish tomes,&mdash;all
+spoke of contented full days. We turned the parchment leaves where the
+college records for its three hundred years in Spain have been kept,
+where each student is mentioned, from the troubled first days down to
+the group of ten who had arrived from England a week before our visit,
+among them a young Reginald Vaughan, nephew of the Cardinal.<a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a></p>
+
+<p>With up-to-date hospital and busy manufactures, Valladolid does not seem
+like an ancient capital of the Spanish court. We would read in our guide
+book that the miserable Juan II had his favorite of a lifetime, Álvaro
+de Luna, beheaded in the big square; that here Juan's noble daughter
+married Ferdinand of Aragon; and that, seated on a throne in the Plaza
+Mayor, Charles V pardoned the remaining Comuneros, the rebels who had
+dared assert the federal principle against his centralization of
+government, Spain's last outcry before she sank under the blighting
+tyranny of her Hapsburg and Bourbon rulers. Such past happenings were
+interesting, but they would have the same meaning if read of in London
+or Boston. However, there were two memories of Valladolid that were
+vivid enough to haunt one as one walked about its hum-drum streets: they
+are associated with the saddest hours of two supreme men.</p>
+
+<p>No. 7 Calle de Cristóbal Colón is the insignificant house where
+Isabella's High Admiral died in 1506, in obscurity and neglect, his
+patroness dead, and Ferdinand ungrateful. A hundred years later, in
+another small house, now owned by the government, Cervantes lived in
+poverty. Unknown and undivined he walked these streets, looking at the
+passers-by with his wise, tolerant eyes. Fresh, perhaps, from writing
+the monologue<a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a> on the Golden Age, delivered by the Don over a few brown
+acorns of inspiration, Cervantes in threadbare cape went to his humble
+scrivener's work, the golden time of justice and kindness existing only
+in his own gallant heart. It was in Valladolid that the ladies of his
+household, widowed sisters, niece, his daughter and wife, sewed to gain
+their daily bread, and as if penury were not enough, here they were
+thrown into prison because a young noble, wounded in a street brawl, was
+carried into their house to die.</p>
+
+<p>Cervantes' life reads like one of the romantic tales he loves to digress
+with in his great novel, when grandee, barber and priest, court lady,
+Eastern damsel, and <i>labrador's</i> daughter, gather round the inn
+table&mdash;the servants a natural part of the group&mdash;in the easy meeting of
+the classes which is still a reality in Spain. Born at Alcalá,
+Cervantes' first bent was toward literature, but having gone to Rome in
+the suite of a cardinal, in Italy he joined the army against the
+infidel. He fought at Lepanto, where his bravery drew on him the notice
+of Don John of Austria, that alluring young leader of whom one of his
+state council wrote, "Nature had endowed him with a cast of countenance
+so gay and pleasing that there was hardly anyone whose good-will and
+love he did not immediately win." It makes a pleasant picture, the visit
+of this high-spirited<a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a> young hero to his wounded soldier in the hospital
+of Messina. Later, Cervantes fought at Naples, at Tunis, in Lombardy,
+making part of his century's stirring history, and all the while storing
+his mind with the culture of Italy. It was when returning to Spain that
+some Algerian pirates took him prisoner. His five years' captivity in
+Africa stand an unsurpassed exhibition of grandeur of character, proving
+that the highest gifts of mind and heart go together in perfect accord.
+Loaded with chains, twice brought to be hanged with a rope around his
+neck, his knightly spirit rose above all misery. There were twenty-five
+thousand wretched Christians then in bondage in Algiers. Cervantes
+waited on the sick, shared his food with the more destitute, encouraged
+the despairing,&mdash;a Christian in the fullest sense of the word is the
+testimony of a Fray Juan Gil, who, belonging to a brotherhood for the
+redemption of prisoners, worked for his release. In this harsh school
+"<i>donde aprendió a tener paciencia en las adversidades</i>"&mdash;the
+adversities that were to follow him all his life&mdash;was chastened to
+self-effacement and a sublime patience an ardent spirit that by nature
+chafed against wrong.</p>
+
+<p>What wonder that the late flowering of this man's soul, the book written
+when past middle age, should be of chivalry all compact, a nobility<a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a> of
+sentiment exposed half seriously, half in jest! What wonder that in the
+midst of laughter the voice breaks with tenderness for the lovable
+<i>caballero andante</i>! His Quixote is Cervantes' own unquenchable spirit.
+A bitter experience of life never deadened his faith in man nor dulled
+his heroic gayety. With exquisite humor he realized the alien aspect of
+such trust and love and faith in the disillusioning realities of life,
+so he veiled it all under the kindly cloak of a cracked-brained knight.
+The wandering adventures of a fool make the wisest, most human-hearted
+book ever written.</p>
+
+<p>Toward the end of his slavery, when Cervantes passed into the hands of
+the viceroy of Algiers, Hassan Pasha, his force of character gained
+influence over the tyrant. But he asked too high a ransom for the
+captive's family to pay. The priest who had watched the young soldier on
+his deeds of mercy, worked indefatigably for his release. A letter was
+sent to Philip II to beg aid for a soldier of Lepanto. At length three
+hundred ducats were raised. Hassan Pasha asked a thousand. Already was
+Cervantes chained to the oar of a galley, bound for Constantinople, when
+at the last hour Father Gil, helped by some Christian merchants,
+succeeded in raising five hundred ducats, which ransom the Viceroy
+accepted.<a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a></p>
+
+<p>At thirty-four years of age, Cervantes again stepped on Spanish soil.
+But the world was then much as it is now; years had passed since
+Lepanto,&mdash;he was forgotten. His patron Don John of Austria had died in
+Flanders two years before his release. He joined the army once more and
+fought in the expedition against the Azores; then seeing there was no
+chance of advancement, he returned to his first career, that of letters.
+His plays and poems had small success: a pathetic phrase in the scene
+where the <i>cura</i> burns Quixote's books and comes on an epic by one,
+Cervantes, "better versed in poverty and misfortunes than in verses,"
+has deeper meaning when his checkered career is known.</p>
+
+<p>Twenty-five years of obscurity and abject poverty succeeded each other,
+his lot so lowly it is hard to trace his steps. Whole years remain a
+blank. The brave heart never flagged, no bitterness tinged his kindly
+tolerance. This Castilian hidalgo of ripe culture earned his bread in
+the humblest ways. 1588 found him in Seville as commissary victualer for
+the Great Armada. Tradition says he visited La Mancha, the desert he was
+to immortalize, to collect tithes for a priory of St. John, and that the
+villagers in anger cast him into prison, where he conceived the idea of
+his novel. This child of his wit he hints to us was born in a jail. The
+sad years in<a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a> Valladolid followed, and there in 1605, at fifty-eight
+years of age, he published the first part of "Don Quixote."</p>
+
+<p>Its success was immediate. The grace of the style, the inimitable humor,
+and the underflowing current of mellow wisdom, made it from the start,
+what Sainte-Beuve called it, "the book of humanity." However, its
+publication did not much better Cervantes' fortunes. He retired to
+Madrid, where he lived on a small pension from the Archbishop of Toledo.
+A French noble visiting Spain asked for the famous author, and was told,
+"He who had made all the world rich was poor and infirm though a soldier
+and a gentleman."</p>
+
+<p>In 1613 appeared his "Novelas Exemplares," a remarkable collection of
+tales which gave Scott the idea of the Waverley novels. The second part
+of "Don Quixote," equal to the first in vigor and charm, appeared when
+Cervantes was sixty; "his foot already in the stirrup," he gives us in a
+preface, the moving description of himself. In the latter part of his
+life, according to a custom of the time, he became a tertiary of the
+Franciscan Order, and on his death in 1616 they buried him humbly in the
+convent of nuns in Madrid, where his daughter was a religious. Ill
+fortune still pursued him, for to-day there is no trace of his last
+resting-place.<a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a></p>
+
+<p>It is with thoughts of this heroic life&mdash;this man lovable as his own
+Don, with a gentle stammer in his speech, and the kindly wise look in
+his eyes, his left hand maimed from Lepanto, his shoulders bowed and his
+chestnut hair turned to silver by the ceaseless calamities of life&mdash;it
+is with such memories one looks down from the high-road on the small
+house where he wrote his masterpiece. Columbus on his deathbed, and
+Cervantes in poverty writing "Quixote"&mdash;two such associations make a
+visit to Valladolid memorable.<a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="OVIEDO_IN_THE_ASTURIAS" id="OVIEDO_IN_THE_ASTURIAS"></a>OVIEDO IN THE ASTURIAS</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"It is perfectly ridiculous to pretend that, because they dress the
+Madonna and saints in rich robes, the Spaniards are ignorant that a
+statue is but a symbol. They sing their faith, we whisper ours, but
+the words have the same meaning, and the same thought is in the
+mind ... Draw a bias line enclosing the Basque provinces,&mdash;Navarre,
+Castile, Aragon, Catalonia, and you have there old religious Spain
+as she appears in history, with a vivid and practical faith, an
+irreproachable clergy, a piety of the heart reflected in the
+manners."&mdash;R<small>ENÉ</small> B<small>AZIN</small>.</p></div>
+
+<p class="nind">W<small>E</small> left Valladolid toward evening, in order to stop over a night in
+Palencia, before going north to Asturias. The cathedral of Palencia is
+well worth the pause, even though the visit may be limited to a night in
+the Continental Inn and a hasty daybreak visit to the church; the small
+cities of central Spain are of so individual a character that each
+stamps itself separately and indelibly on the memory.</p>
+
+<p>The dawn was just breaking on a raw, rainy morning when we walked
+through the silent streets of the town. In spite of the early hour, near
+each of the water fountains stood a long row of antique-shaped jars,
+some of red clay, some<a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a> like old silver. For each housewife places her
+jar in line, and when the drinking water is turned on, each fills her
+crock in turn, according as it was put in the row. At the biblical wells
+of Palestine the Syrian women to-day use ugly, square Rockefeller oil
+cans, but happily conservative Spain is not partial to innovations. It
+was on this early morning walk that I first noticed the white palm
+leaves, some six feet in length, fastened to the balconies or above a
+window. One finds them all over the country. They are from the palm
+forests of Elche in the south, and each Easter new ones are blessed and
+hung out on the houses, some say to guard against lightning. Later, in
+Madrid, we saw one decorating the King's palace.</p>
+
+<p>The Cathedral of Palencia is of the same tawny yellow as the plains
+about it. The east end is early Gothic, the western part of a later,
+weaker period. Like Salisbury it has the uncommon feature of two sets of
+transepts; the clearstory is carried round the church, unbroken by rose
+windows at the west or transept ends. The interior in the dim light of a
+rainy October morning was picturesque past description. There are times
+when the chances of travel bring one to a spot at just its perfect hour.
+Thus we saw this church in a moment of such exquisite half light and
+quietude that its memory is a possession for life. Behind the High Altar
+rose an isolated<a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a> chapel, set detached in the midst of the ambulatory,
+and through its iron <i>rejas</i> were seen the blurred glimmer of candles,
+the veiled kneeling figures of the people, an aged white-haired priest
+at the Altar; high upon the wall the coffin of the ancient Queen Urraca.
+The effect was indescribable,&mdash;austere, ascetic, yet with a passionate
+glamour essentially Spanish. A masterpiece could an artist make of this
+detached chapel, lighted for divine service each day at dawn with such
+unconscious naturalness.</p>
+
+<p>Architects may say that Spanish cathedrals are exaggerated and
+overloaded, that they lack the restraint and purity of line of Chartres,
+Amiens, and the Isle de France churches which are the world's best
+Gothic. All this may well be true, yet Spain can smile securely at
+criticism. She has a soul in her places of worship, a soaring exaltation
+of the imagination that imparts the assurance of a living faith. Firmly
+and ardently she believes in Jesus Christ, her Redeemer, and with all
+her lofty intensity she prostrates herself in worship.</p>
+
+<p>We wandered round the dusky aisles, deciphering tombs, some of whose
+effigies held their arms raised in prayer,&mdash;only a Spaniard could endure
+to look even at such a tiring attitude! But the time for loitering was
+limited. The transept clock, a knight, a Moor, and a lion, sounded the<a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a>
+warning we must heed if we were to catch the early train for the North.
+The thoughtful innkeeper had saved us some precious minutes by sending
+the hotel omnibus to wait outside the Cathedral, and we rattled&mdash;in its
+literal sense&mdash;to the distant station. The city was at last fully awake,
+and each water jar had now an owner; one by one they followed each other
+at the pump, with pleasant greetings and chatter.</p>
+
+<p>Then again stretched the tawny plains. The fields of León were tractless
+wastes of mud from the rain of the past weeks. Seen from the car window,
+each village on the truncated mountain was the exact copy of its
+neighbor, the same monotonous note of color in adobe wall and denuded
+steppe. It was in vain to look for some distinction to mark one group of
+mud houses, called Paredes de Nava, birthplace of Spain's best sculptor
+Berruguete, from a similar mud-emblocked place called Cisneros, feudal
+home of Cardinal Ximenez's family; the imagination had to supply the
+difference.</p>
+
+<p>Every one must come prepared for Spanish trains to go at a leisurely
+pace&mdash;about fifteen miles an hour is the average of the express route.
+From Palencia to Oviedo was a twelve-hour trip, and the distance covered
+was a hundred and sixty miles. Of course one crossed the Cantabrian
+mountains, the continuation of the Pyrenees<a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a> along the northern coast,
+and they are no slight barrier since they sometimes rise to a height of
+8,000 feet.</p>
+
+<p>We passed the city of León toward noon, when there came a respite from
+the dull treeless plain, for, beyond the town stretched a thinly-wooded
+district which gave the first reminder since leaving the Basque valleys
+that the season still was autumn. After central Spain, the bleak hills
+that now began seemed positively beautiful,&mdash;so many pleasures are
+relative.</p>
+
+<p>Slowly the train climbed the mountain wall that from earliest times has
+protected the Asturian principality from the invader. Near the summit,
+emerging from a tunnel several miles long, we looked out over a glorious
+panorama, the beauty not being relative this time, but as truly
+magnificent as some of Switzerland's show views. The storm had covered
+the peaks with freshest snow, the sky was a frosty dark blue, mountain
+rose behind mountain for miles, the white road was flung a sinuous
+ribbon round the folds of the hills; below lay fertile valleys of
+greenest grass with greenest trees and happy nestling farms. The secure
+mountain wall gave the Asturian courage to build a home wherever his
+whim chose. He was not forced like the Castilian by centuries of Moorish
+inroads to herd in a compact town.</p>
+
+<p>As the puffing train waited for breathing space<a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a> on the crest of the
+pass, a group of peasants boarded it. They wore the white wooden clogs
+of the province that differ from ordinary clogs by having stilts, a
+couple of inches high, to lift them above the mud; and they brought with
+them, on a sledge, as wheels are of no use up these steep hills, an
+antique curiosity of a trunk. We began to hope that old costumes and
+customs still held in this isolated corner of the world, though the
+engineering of the road in the descent was disturbingly up-to-date,&mdash;a
+series of loops, cuts, and sharp turns; sometimes three parallel lines
+of rail over which we were to pass lay one below the other, sometimes
+directly across the valley we saw our trail; a distance of twenty-six
+miles is covered where a crow would fly seven.</p>
+
+<p>The principality of Asturias has given its name to the heir apparent of
+the Spanish crown since the 14th century, when a daughter of the Duke of
+Lancaster married the Spanish king's eldest son, and her father claimed
+for her a title equal to that of Prince of Wales to the English throne.
+The connection by marriage between Spain and England has been a frequent
+one. It began in the 12th century, when Henry II's daughter married
+Alfonso VIII of Castile; later the Plantagenet Edward I had for wife a
+Spanish infanta. From the two daughters of Pedro the Cruel, who married
+into the English royal family, on one side descended<a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a> Henry VIII, from
+the other, by a marriage back again in Spain, sprang Isabella the
+Catholic. After the ill-fated union of Isabella's daughter with Henry
+VIII and that of Mary Tudor and Philip II, connection by marriage
+between Spain and England ceased for centuries. To-day, as all the world
+knows, the young queen of Spain, Doña Victoria, with the same blonde
+hair as Isabella, is an Englishwoman, and a rosy little prince bears the
+title of these distant mountains.</p>
+
+<p>It is a fitting title for the heir to the throne, since this province is
+the cradle of Spanish nationality, and never was vassal to Roman or
+Moor. The people are a mixture of the aboriginal Iberians and the
+Visigoths who were here finally merged in one people and here
+reconstructed the Spanish monarchy. So proud is an Asturian of his
+origin that he thinks, like the Basques, that his mere birth confers
+nobility; every native of the province is an hidalgo. Did not the
+Asturian lady, the duenna of the Duchess, remark to Don Quixote that her
+husband was <i>hidalgo como el Rey porque era montañés</i>?</p>
+
+<p>When in 711 the last of the Gothic kings, Roderick, was defeated by the
+Moors who had lately crossed from Africa, a remnant of the Christian
+army took refuge in these northern mountains. At Cavadonga, an historic
+defeat was inflicted on the Moslem army in 718, by Pelayo, Spain's
+first<a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a> king, chosen leader because he was the bravest of the people. The
+Moorish chronicle, too close to the struggle to see its vital issues,
+speaks of "one Belay, a contemptible barbarian who roused the people of
+Asturish."</p>
+
+<p>Without Cavadonga the face of Europe had been changed. Had not the
+Mussulmans from Africa met this repulse, they had pushed on beyond the
+Pyrenees before the Franks were strong enough to withstand them. Often
+rose this thought when reading the sentimental regrets for the Moors in
+Spain found in guide books and histories. Had Spain not warred for eight
+hundred years against the invader, had she not endured with such Spartan
+courage the insecurity of life and property caused by ceaseless forays
+from the south, European civilization had been put back for centuries.
+Like most virile nations, she has the defect of her qualities, and when
+the final victory was hers she went too far. But this should not blind
+us to the nobility of the <i>Reconquista</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Within reach of Cavadonga, sacred to every Spaniard as the cradle of his
+race and religion, I could not help asking the cause of the ceaseless
+regret for the Moor. A lover of the picturesque, like Washington Irving,
+has a right to gloss over the days of the Alhambra, but it seems strange
+for serious history to hold up the Mohammedan in Spain as a model of
+cleanliness, industry, and<a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a> tolerance in contrast to the Christian, in
+face of the centuries of piracy by sea, the barbarity of African prisons
+where thousands of Spaniards languished in chains, and also&mdash;a thought
+that often came to me when walking through the filthy, narrow streets in
+Moslem countries&mdash;if the Moor in Spain is to be so regretted, why are
+not the northern cities of Africa models for modern Christians to
+emulate? The Moor came from them, and many of his race left Spain to
+return to them. I would not belittle the Arab civilization in the
+Peninsula, for under the Ommiade dynasty, Cordova reached a
+distinguished height of culture, but what I object to is the partisan
+spirit that places Moors on one side to be praised and extenuated, and
+Spanish Christians on the other to be condemned. Facts are so distorted
+that many think the re-conquest of Andalusia meant the substitution of
+backward ignorance for an enlightened rule, whereas the Moors
+themselves, long before the coming of their northern conquerors, had
+destroyed their own higher civilization. The flower of their culture
+(always an exotic, for Islamism as hitherto interpreted is incapable of
+strengthening it) was withered before Alfonzo VI and the Cid had set
+foot further south than Toledo.</p>
+
+<p>Under the Ommiade caliphs, for about five generations, life probably
+resembled the golden<a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a> picture drawn for us as typical of Moorish sway. A
+few able rulers disguised the fact that the government was never
+anything else but a despotism. This <i>siglo de oro</i> was well over by
+1030. Some barbarous warrior tribes, from Africa, the Almoravides, swept
+away the feeble remains of Ommiade rule, to be in their turn routed by
+other African invaders, the fanatic Almohades. These last persecuted
+Averroës as holding views too liberal for a true Mohammedan, and the
+scholar died in misery and exile, just as in the same century the
+remarkable Spanish-Jew, Maimonides, was accused of teaching atheism by
+his fellow Israelites. Rejected by his own people, the fame of Averroës
+came later through his study by European Schoolmen. His teachings, like
+most of what is of value in Arab learning, was of Greek origin, and had
+reached him by way of Persia, which never wholly conformed to the set
+tenets of Islam. Why do the anti-Spanish historians never mention that
+in the same era in which Averroës, the philosopher, was persecuted by
+his fellow-believers, a college of translators under the patronage of
+the Archbishop Raimundo of Toledo, from 1130 to 1150, put into Latin the
+most scientific works of the Moors?</p>
+
+<p>Mohammedan civilization in Spain, from decay within, was completely
+disintegrated by 1275. The caliphs of Granada led the lives of weak<a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a>
+voluptuaries, artistic but decadent; no rose-colored romancing can veil
+their essential decline. Isabella's court, traveling with its
+university, with the learned Peter Martyr instructing the young nobles
+in Renaissance lore, so that a son of the Duke of Alva, and a cousin of
+the King are to be found among the lecturers of Salamanca, presents a
+noble contrast. When the <i>Reconquista</i> was achieved, and after three
+thousand seven hundred battles, the Spaniard was again master in his own
+land, grievous mistakes were made, until finally, in 1609, in a panic of
+fear that the corsairs of Africa were uniting with their co-religionists
+along the Spanish coasts, the Moriscos were expelled. Spain inflicted
+this blow on herself at an ill moment, since already from the enormous
+emigration to the New World, her crying need was population. But this
+act of bad government whereby she threw away over half a million of her
+inhabitants (always remember, however, far more Moorish blood remained
+than was lost, for nine centuries of occupation had well infiltered it
+through the southern provinces) did not drive out the intellectual and
+moral backbone of the land as we are given to understand. The Moors of
+Isabella's day were not the liberal-minded, cultivated people they had
+been under the Ommiade caliphs four centuries earlier, and the
+persecuted<a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a> Moriscos of Philip III's time were far lower in standing.
+Also it cannot be questioned that Valencia, the province that expelled
+them, whose rich soil to-day supports a crowded population, quickly
+filled up, and soon showed with its irrigation the same industry that
+seemed peculiar to the Moors. It was central Spain, eminently "old
+Christian," that when its people flocked as adventurers to America,
+could offer neither fertile soil nor inviting climate to lure new
+settlers. The quotations usually cited to prove that Valencia was
+irremediably devastated by the Expulsion are taken from men who wrote
+within a few years of the disaster; it would be an easy matter,
+following the same sophistry to quote aspects of our South a generation
+ago that could make the Civil War appear an irremediable blight.</p>
+
+<p>Seeking for the cause of the tendency to overrate the Moor at the
+expense of his hereditary enemy, it seems to me it is to be traced to
+that period of rancor, the Invincible Armada, when religious and
+political passions ran so high that it was forgotten that the hated
+Spaniard was before all else a Christian, and on his heroic struggle for
+the Cross had hung the civilization of Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The capital of the Asturian province is Oviedo. Alfonso II, the eighth
+king that followed Pelayo, made it his chief city, but in spite of its
+antiquity it is a disappointing town. I had pictured an unspoiled<a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a> bit
+of the past, locked in as it is by mountains whose valleys reach to the
+city gates, with curiously-named saints still serving as titulars, with
+the oldest remains of Christian architecture in the Peninsula. But the
+reality is a smug, commonplace, successful little city of slight local
+color. The mansions are Renaissance, not mediæval; if you stumble on an
+ancient street it soon brings you to a straight new boulevard. Children
+in English clothes and ladies dressed like Parisians walk in the park
+facing a line of pretentious apartment houses. I asked in the shops for
+pictures of the <i>Cámera Santa</i>. They could only give me postcards of the
+model prison and the model insane asylum. Sleepy little Palencia, with
+its rows of classic water jars waiting&mdash;time no consideration&mdash;till the
+water was turned on in the fountains, it seemed hardly possible we had
+left it only that morning. The remote old world may be found in central
+Spain, but as this is the land of anomalies, the mountain provinces of
+the north are busy to-day with mines and commerce. It remains but a
+question of time for Bilbao, Santander, Gijón, Coruña, and Vigo, the
+northern harbors, to become commercial centers. They are awake at last
+and keen to enter the struggle.</p>
+
+<p>This industrial tendency is what we agree in calling progress, and Spain
+has been censured for her backwardness in entering the world's
+competition,<a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a> so it is not justifiable to regret the unambitious past.
+But who can be consistent in the home of <i>el ingenioso hidalgo</i>! From
+the moment of entering Spain till we left I leaned now to one side, now
+to the other, glad and proud one day to see her new industries, a model
+hospital or asylum, and scoffing the next, at a hideous new boulevard
+that had relieved a congested district. This land of racy types and
+vigorous humanity may be doomed to have factory chimneys belching smoke,
+to have lawless mobs of socialists and pitiful slums in cities where now
+is frugal poverty, where a beggar lives contentedly next door to a
+prince, because he feels the prince recognizes him as his fellow
+countryman and fellow Christian: progress and wealth are bought with a
+price. Oviedo, just entering the competition, and fast sweeping away its
+picturesque past, made me glad to be in time to see something of the old
+ways of Spain.</p>
+
+<p>The lion of the city, the Cathedral, adds to this inconsistent feeling
+of disappointment. It is the only cathedral of the twenty and more we
+were to see that has removed the choir from the nave and placed pews
+down the center of the church. At Burgos the heavy blocking mass of the
+<i>coro</i> in the nave had startled and bewildered me, but soon I grew so
+accustomed to this Spanish usage that a church without it seemed
+incomplete. Oviedo has modernized its side chapels, recklessly sweeping<a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a>
+away carvings and sarcophagi. It thought the tombs of Pelayo's
+successors, the early kings, were cluttering rubbish, so a good plain
+stone, easy to decipher, has been put up in place of the ancient
+memorials!</p>
+
+<p>The Cathedral is perpendicular Gothic of the 14th century. The west
+façade has a spacious portico, whose effect, however, is lessened by the
+church being set so that you descend to it from the street. On one side
+of the portico rises the tower, bold and graceful, showing from its base
+to its open-lace stone turret an easy gradation of styles. This is the
+tower that runs like an echo through a powerful modern novel set in
+Oviedo, "La Regenta," by Leopoldo Alas. "<i>Poema romántica de piedra</i>,"
+he calls it, "<i>delicado himno de dulces líneas de belleza muda</i>." Out of
+the south transept open cloisters that made, the first day of our visit,
+a charming picture in the sunshine after the weeks of cold rain; the red
+pendants of the fuschia bushes caught the long-absent warmth with
+palpable enjoyment. The shafts of the pillars here were oval shaped, not
+a wholly successful change, as in profile view they appeared
+unsymmetrical. Out of this south transept also opens the gem of the
+church, the <i>Cámera Santa</i>, which has escaped the general renovation as
+being too closely bound to the historical and religious past of Spain to
+be tampered with.<a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a> Alfonso <i>el Casto</i> in 802 built this shrine, raised
+twenty feet from the church pavement to preserve it from damp. A small
+room with apostle-figures serving as caryatids leads to the sanctum
+sanctorum where the famous relics are kept. They were brought here in a
+Byzantine chest from Toledo when the Moors conquered that city, and
+probably there are few collections of old jewelers' work equal to them.
+Here is kept the cross Pelayo carried as a standard at the battle of
+Cavadonga more than eleven hundred years before. Few can help feeling in
+Spain the charm of continuous tradition. Never were her treasures
+scattered by revolution; that this was Pelayo's very cross is not
+problematic but a fact assured by unbroken record.</p>
+
+<p>A printed sheet describing the sacred objects in the <i>Cámera Santa</i> is
+given to each visitor. It would be easy to turn many of these relics of
+a more naïve, less logical age, into ridicule. To one, however, who
+tries to see a new land with comprehending sympathy, to which alone it
+will reveal itself, these relics, brought back from the Holy Land by
+crusading knight or warrior bishop, are tender memorials of a great hour
+of Christian enthusiasm. One of the strongest traits of Spanish
+character is reverence for all links that bind it to its past,
+especially its religious past, and happy it is for such old treasures<a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a>
+that they find shelter in a land where a <i>Cámera Santa</i> is still a
+shrine, not a museum. "<i>¡Triste de la nación que deja caer en el olvido
+las ideas y concepciones de sus majores!</i>"</p>
+
+<p>If Oviedo itself is disappointing to those who seek the antiquely
+picturesque, the countryside that encircles it is doubly lovely. On a
+bright Sunday morning we walked out a few miles to see the church of
+Santa María de Naranco, built by Ramiro I back in 850. It was a steep
+scramble up the mountain side, for the road was like a torrent bed.
+Peasants on donkeys passed, on their way into the town for their day of
+rest, some with brightly decorated bagpipes groaning out their
+merriment. To avoid the sea of mud in the high road, we took short-cuts
+up the hills, following a peasant who, seated sideways on her donkey,
+balanced on her head a huge loaf of bread. And her bread, round and
+flattened in the center, was the exact shape of the loaves chiseled,
+centuries before, in the Bible scenes of Burgos choir-stalls. The old
+woman smiled and nodded as she smoked her cigarettes, watching us pick
+our way with difficulty where the tiny hoofs of her ass trod lightly.
+What cares a Spanish peasant whether the road is good or bad when he has
+a sure-footed donkey to carry him!</p>
+
+<p>At length we reached the small church built by the third king after
+Pelayo. It is a room thirty-six<a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a> by fifteen feet, with a chamber at the
+east and another at the west end. Along the north and south walls are
+pillars from which spring the arcades, and these pillars and arches make
+the support of the building; the walls merely fill in. This is the
+earliest example in Spain of the separation into active and passive
+members; whether the idea came from Lombardy or was of native birth is
+not known.</p>
+
+<p>We climbed still higher up the red sandstone hill, among gnarled old
+chestnut trees, to where the ancient church of San Miguel de Lino
+stands. The oriental windows, being in Spain, would naturally be thought
+of Moorish origin, but their Eastern source antedates the Moor. They
+came from the Byzantine East, by way of the Bosphorus, not the Straits
+of Gibraltar. They are reminiscent of the time when the Goths, before
+their invasion of Spain, lived around the Danube.</p>
+
+<p>On July 25th the scene near these two churches is a striking one. The
+village of Naranco is emptied of its folk that pious morn, as the
+peasants, in the same tranquil beauty as in old Greece, lead their
+garlanded oxen and heifers up to San Miguel. So unchanging are Spain's
+customs that the festival is paid for out of the spoils taken at the
+battle of Clavigo (in 846), where tradition says the loved patron of the
+Peninsula, the<a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a> Apostle St. James, "<i>él de España</i>," came to fight in
+person. We were not so fortunate as to see this feast of Sant Jago, but
+we stumbled on a beautiful minor scene. As we returned by Santa María de
+Naranco, a group of peasants stood round the priest on the raised porch
+of the church, the center of interest being a baby three days old. Few
+women can resist a baptism, that solemn first step in a Christian life,
+so we drew near. The father was a superb-looking youth of about twenty,
+in a black velvet jacket; his crisp curly hair, his glow of color, and
+the proud outline of his features made him fit subject for the artist.
+The godmother, his sister it seemed from the resemblance, was a buxom
+girl in Sunday finery; the godfather was a younger brother of fourteen,
+who awkwardly held the precious burden. The old priest wore the wooden
+clogs of the people and made a terrible racket with every step. From the
+porch he led the way into the church, and after pausing half way to read
+prayers,&mdash;a scuffling old sexton held aslant a dripping candle,&mdash;they
+came to the baptismal font in the raised chamber at the west end. The
+young father went forward to the altar steps to kneel alone, and the
+godfather, with great earnestness, gave the responses. Then the <i>cura</i>
+poured the blessed water on the tiny head, and to prevent cold wiped it
+gently. The ceremony over, his wooden shoes clattered<a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a> into the
+sacristy, the sexton blew out the candle, and the agile godmother
+claimed her woman's prerogative and tossed and crooned to the young
+Christian as she tied ribbons and cap-strings. The two strangers who had
+witnessed this moving little scene under the primitive carving of the
+Visigothic church wished to leave a good-luck piece for the small
+Manuela. But when they put the coin into the hand of the young parent
+who still knelt before the altar, he returned it with a beautiful,
+flashing smile. In halting Spanish they explained their good-luck
+wishes, and in that spirit the gift was accepted.</p>
+
+<p>Seen from Naranco, the red-tiled roofs of Oviedo encircled by
+far-stretching mountains made a romantic enough scene. Seated on the
+trunk of a chestnut tree we watched the sun set over the exquisite
+valley. Immediately round us on the hillside had once stood the city of
+King Ramiro, obliterated as completely as the earlier Ph&oelig;nician and
+Roman settlements in Spain. The dead city where we sat, the town below,
+distant from the bustle of the world yet fast approaching it, the glow
+and sweep of the sunset,&mdash;it is at moments such as these that the mind
+enlarges to a swift comprehension, untranslatable in speech, of the
+passing breath the ages are. The mountains change, the rivers
+capriciously leave their beds,&mdash;especially in Spain, where<a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a> bridges
+stand lost in green meadows and are left undisturbed, for does not a
+proverb say, "Rivers return to forsaken beds after a thousand years?"
+And Spain has patience to wait! Whether it was the new-born child, the
+forgotten city, the up-to-date town below, or just the sun setting over
+that illimitable expanse of mountains, Santa María Naranco gave one an
+hour of the higher philosophy.</p>
+
+<p>In the after-glow we walked back to Oviedo. Along the way the returning
+country people greeted us with ease and dignity: "<i>Vaya Usted con
+Dios</i>," the beautiful salutation, "Go thou with God," heard from one end
+of the land to the other. The beggar gives you thanks with it, the shop
+man dismisses you, the friend takes farewell, but its pleasantest sound
+is in the country, heard from the lips of clear-eyed peasants passing in
+the evening light.</p>
+
+<p>This peasantry is by instinct well-bred, proud of a pure descent, by
+nature a gentleman, a <i>caballero</i>. A traveler's life and pocket are
+absolutely secure in these unfrequented northern provinces of "dark and
+scowling Spain." For a century those who have turned aside from the
+beaten track have brought back the same tale of courtesy and
+hospitality. There is much of Arcadian gentleness among these unlettered
+people. The Spanish <i>labrador</i> may not read or write, but he cannot<a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a> be
+called ignorant; statistics here do not guide one to a true knowledge.
+The country people hand down in the primitive way, from one generation
+to the other, a ripe store of human wisdom, that often gives them a
+wider outlook on life and a deeper strength of character than that of
+the educated man who shallowly criticises them. They are unspoiled and
+very human, the women essentially feminine, the men essentially manly;
+daily this note of virility strikes one,&mdash;one grows to love their
+expressive, beautiful word, <i>varonil</i>. "The man in the saloon steamer
+has seen all the races of men, and he is thinking of the things that
+divide men,&mdash;diet, dress, decorum, rings in the nose as in Africa, or in
+the ears as in Europe. The man in the cabbage field has seen nothing at
+all; but he is thinking of the things that unite men,&mdash;hunger, and
+babies, and the beauty of women, and the promise or menace of the sky."
+When one can say a thing like that, one is born to appreciate Spain.
+Will not Mr. Gilbert Chesterton go there and study some day her
+untamable grand old qualities and describe her as she should be
+described? If such a country population had had good government during
+the past three hundred years instead of the worst of tyrannies, where
+would it stand to-day? Though such a surmise is foolish, for perhaps it
+is because of its isolation that the Spanish peasantry is racy and
+vigorous.<a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a> Knowing the hopelessness of battling against corruption in
+high places in Madrid, it lived out of touch with modern life, elevated
+by its intense faith, the hard-won inheritance from the
+<i>Reconquista</i>,&mdash;and a peasant's faith is his form of poetry and
+ideality, which when taken from him makes him lose in refinement and
+charm.</p>
+
+<p>Back in the Basque provinces the new idea had dawned on us that this was
+not a spent, degenerate race, but a young unspoiled one, and every
+excursion in the country parts of Spain made deeper the assurance of red
+blood coursing in her veins. Corrupt government has deeply tainted the
+city classes, has made loafers, and men who open their trusts to the
+silver key, but the heart of the people is sound. It has been tragically
+wounded by rulers to whom, an heroic trait, it has ever been loyal. If a
+country after centuries of misrule had the same power to govern herself
+as a nation that had had enlightened government for the same length of
+time, would not one of the best arguments for good government be lost?
+It may be a long time before Spain learns the restraint of self-rule.
+But go among the vigorous mountaineers of the north, talk with the
+patient, sober Castilian <i>labrador</i>, watch the Catalan men of industry
+and you will see the possibility of her future. A noble esprit de corps
+controls the Guardia Civil who are the keepers of law and security<a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a> in
+Spain, to whom a bribe is an insult. Let the same spirit extend to the
+other departments,&mdash;to the post, to the railway, the civil government;
+let the judge sit on an impregnable height; let the priest of Andalusia
+have as solemn a realization of his office as the priest of Navarre, of
+Aragon, of old Castile; let the women be given a wider education (though
+may nothing ever change their present qualities as wives and mothers),
+and Spain is on the right road.</p>
+
+<p>Cavadonga was merely a two days' trip from Oviedo, yet we had to forego
+it. The weather was too abominable; while Málaga on the southern coast
+of Spain has an average of but fifty-two rainy days in the year, this
+city on the northern coast has only fifty-two cloudless days. The
+thought of a rickety diligence over miles of muddy roads kept enthusiasm
+within bounds. After a short pause in the Asturian capital we took the
+train back to León. The valleys were a veritable paradise; now we
+skirted a wide river flowing under heavily-wooded hills, now we crossed
+fields covered with the autumn crocus, and saw from the balconies of the
+farmhouses yellow tapestries of corn cobs hung out to dry.</p>
+
+<p>Some day, not so far distant as an ideal government in Spain, the lover
+of independence and untouched nature will come to these northern
+provinces instead of going to hotel-infested<a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a> Switzerland. The temperate
+climate, the trout and salmon rivers, the courtesy of the people, make
+these valleys between the mountains and the sea an ideal tramping and
+camping ground for the summer.<a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="THE_SLEEPING_CITIES_OF_LEON" id="THE_SLEEPING_CITIES_OF_LEON"></a>THE SLEEPING CITIES OF LEÓN</h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"I stood before the triple northern porch<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Where dedicated shapes of saints and kings,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Stern faces bleared with immemorial watch,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Looked down benignly grave and seemed to say:<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">'Ye come and go incessant; we remain<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Safe in the hallowed quiets of the past;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Be reverent, ye who flit and are forgot<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Of faith so nobly realized as this.'"<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">J<small>AMES</small> R<small>USSELL</small> L<small>OWELL</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">T<small>HERE</small> have been many efforts to divide Spain into right-angled
+departments similar to those of her neighbor France. The individual land
+throws off such efforts to bring her into geometric proportion: never
+can her thirteen immemorial divisions, her thirteen historic provinces
+be wiped out. Each is an entity with ineradicable characteristics and
+customs. Their boundaries may seem confused on a paper map, but they are
+reasonable in the flesh and blood geography of mountains and river
+valleys, or the psychological geography of early affiliation and
+conquest.</p>
+
+<p>No Alfonso or Ferdinand will ever be King of Spain, but King of the
+Spains, <i>Rey de las Españas</i>. <i>Mi paisano</i>, the term which stands for<a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>
+the closest bond of fellowship, is used by an Aragonese of an Aragonese,
+by a Catalan of a Catalan, never by an Aragonese of an Andalusian, or a
+Catalan of a Castilian. The independent Basque provinces, (where the
+monarch is merely a lord) the free mountain towns of Navarre,
+stiff-necked Aragon, these never will merge themselves in Old Castile.
+Nor can Catalonia, self-centered, humming with manufactures and seething
+with anarchy, understand pleasure-loving Andalusia, that basks under
+fragrant orange trees as it smiles its ceaseless <i>mañana</i>. Valencia and
+Murcia, where crop follows crop in prodigal fruitfulness are the
+antithesis of desolate Estremadura, and of that immortal desert of Don
+Quixote the denuded steppes of New Castile, to their north. And the
+mountain provinces of Galicia and the Asturias, of idyllic hill and
+dale, yet with seaports fast awakening to commercial life, look with
+little sympathy on the sluggish province of León that borders them.</p>
+
+<p>Industrial advancement is on its gradual way in Spain, but there is not
+a hint of its movement in this oldest of the separate kingdoms. Zamora,
+Astorga, León, Salamanca, the romantic cities of the earlier days of
+chivalry, lie asleep; the whistle of the railways has failed to rouse
+them. You must lay aside all theories of modern comfort here, and make
+the tour in the spirit of a pilgrim<a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a> lover of the antique and
+picturesque. What else could be expected in a province where the
+peasantry still embroider their coarse linen sheets with castles and
+heraldic lions, in a land where even the blazonry of a city rings with a
+psalm, <i>Ego autem ad Deum clamavi</i>. The centuries of forays have
+bequeathed a hardy endurance to the people, but they are the cause at
+the same time of the scanty population of the plains, the tragic evil of
+central Spain.</p>
+
+<p>We got to the city of León the day of a horse fair. Fresh from
+wide-awake Oviedo, it was like stepping back into an older world; here
+was old Spain much as it was in the time of Guzmán<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> the Good, the
+defender of Tarifa in 1294, whose <i>casa solar</i> faced the plaza where the
+fair was held. The peasants who bargained in groups, wore toga-draped
+capes and wide-brimmed felt hats edged with an inch of velvet; every
+horse in Spain must have been gathered there, and an equal number of
+kind-eyed woolly little donkeys, essential factors of a Spanish scene.
+"The Castilian donkey has a philosophic, deliberate air," wrote<a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a>
+Théophile Gautier on his sympathetic tour in the Peninsula seventy years
+ago, "he understands very well they can't do without him; he is one of
+the family, he has read 'Don Quixote,' and he flatters himself he
+descends in direct line from the famous ass of Sancho Panza."</p>
+
+<p>A step beyond the horse fair brought us to massive Roman walls with
+frequent semi-circular towers; León's name comes from Augustus' 7th
+Legion who fortified it against the highlanders of the north. Built into
+the walls is the remarkable church of San Isidoro encrusted with later
+work, but with the strong Romanesque lines still prominent. The pilgrims
+who flocked from Europe to Santiago Compostella in the Middle Ages were
+partly the means of bringing this style into Spain; thus San Isidoro is
+of Burgundian origin, just as Santiago Cathedral resembles Saint-Sernin
+in Toulouse, and the Catalan churches show Lombard features. Though the
+Spaniard adapted the style to his own character, adding the original
+feature of outside cloisters for the laity, its importation nipped in
+the bud a just beginning national architecture, whose loss cannot but be
+regretted. San Isidoro has a privilege seldom given, the Blessed
+Sacrament being exposed every day of the year, and always before its
+lighted altar one sees veiled figures kneeling. It served as the
+pantheon for the kings<a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a> who followed Ordoño II&mdash;twelfth in descent from
+Pelayo&mdash;who removed his capital from Oviedo here, and the ancient burial
+chamber still has ceilings painted in the stiff Byzantine manner with
+obscure color, hard lines, and lack of perspective, probably the oldest
+paintings in Spain. The "Romancero" tells how Jimena, the gallant,
+golden-haired wife of the Cid, came here after the birth of her child to
+attend Mass. She wore the velvet robes given her by the king on the day
+of her marriage, a richly jeweled hair-net, gift of the Infanta Urraca,
+her rival; around her neck painted medals of San Lázaro and San Pedro,
+<i>santos de su devoción</i>, and so beautiful was she that the sun stood
+still in his course to see her better. At the church door the king met
+her and escorted her in honor, for was not her husband away fighting the
+infidel for his monarch? There is so true a ring to the old ballads that
+Jimena lives a real personage.</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Oviedo la sacra, Toledo la rica, Sevilla la grande, Salamanca la
+fuerte, León la bella</i>" runs an old verse on Spanish Cathedrals. And the
+Cathedral of León merits its name. It is harmoniously beautiful, pure
+French-Gothic, graceful and elegant, classic if the word is permissible
+for the unrestrained individualism of Gothic art. Built in one age
+without intermission, in 1303 the Bishop announced that no further<a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>
+contributions were needed, and the centuries since have left the church
+untouched. Here no cold Herrera portal usurps some lovely pointed work
+and Churrigueresque extravagancies are not prominent: the late
+restorations have followed the first plans.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_leon_108_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_leon_108_sml.jpg" width="376" height="550" alt="Copyright, 1910, by Underwood &amp; Underwood
+
+The Cathedral of León" title="Copyright, 1910, by Underwood &amp; Underwood
+
+The Cathedral of León" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption"><small>Copyright, , 1910, by Underwood &amp; Underwood</small>
+<br />
+The Cathedral of León</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Always excepting the <i>Pórtico de la Gloria</i> in Santiago, the west
+doorways of León Cathedrals stand for the best in Spanish sculpture. The
+statue of the <i>Virgen Blanca</i> in the center is famous. Around her the
+saints and apostles are grouped in appealing attitudes;&mdash;out of
+proportion though they may be as to hands and feet, their sincerity
+covers all flaws: here, a homely face with care-worn wrinkles of
+goodness; there, one beaming in satisfaction to be standing in such a
+chosen band. The lunette over the central door is delightful. On one
+side, in Heaven, a clerk plays the organ, while a boy blows the bellows,
+and groups stand chatting near, for a Spaniard's idea of bliss, in those
+days also, took the form of ease and desultory talk. Hell, on the
+opposite side, not to be outdone, has two urchins blowing bellows as
+well, not to make music but to quicken a fiery caldron into which devils
+are thrusting the sinners. The enjoyment of the old sculptor in his
+Heaven and Hell was too keen to be confined in the lunette and he has
+spread himself over the curving of the arches; in spite<a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a> of time and
+retouching these three doorways show exquisite detail chiseling.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"About their shoulders sparrows had built nests<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And fluttered, chirping, from gray perch to perch,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Now on a miter poising, now a crown,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Irreverently happy."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Within León Cathedral all is quiet and solemn, a true beauty of
+holiness. There is no clutter of side chapels in the nave but a sheer
+sweep of windows filled with the jeweled glass of Flemish masters.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>
+These windows come as a surprise in a land where churches are guarded
+from the sun, and often the open triforium and clearstory, as at Avila,
+are walled up later to darken the interior. The chancel and choir are
+worth detail study. The <i>coro</i> seats have panels carved with single
+figures,&mdash;saints with their emblems, warriors with raised visors,
+placid-faced nuns, thoughtful bishops, gallant pages with their crossed
+feet gracefully poised,&mdash;all of a noble type, with high brow and
+aquiline nose. Spain has comparatively nothing to show in the way of
+frescoes, she had no early Masaccio, no Giotto,<a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a> no Filippo Lippi, to
+paint the costumes and features of his generation, but wood carvings are
+her substitute; in them, and in her unrivaled tombs can be read the
+contemporary history of warrior, bishop, and page. The <i>retablo</i> of the
+High Altar is of the same simple elegance as the rest of the church. The
+usual towering one of carved scenes would have been singularly out of
+place, it is appropriate for the big dark interior of Seville Cathedral,
+but here are grace and restraint instead of grandeur and mystery, and
+most suitable are the ancient paintings of varying sizes, gathered from
+scattered churches and framed together. Radiating round the chancel are
+chapels that give to the exterior view of the apse a truly French-Gothic
+air, flying buttresses supporting the cap of the <i>capilla mayor</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Romanesque, Gothic, and Plateresque are each well represented in León
+City. In the last style is the noticeable convent of San Marcos that
+stands isolated outside the town beside the swift blue-green river. The
+Knights of Santiago built a resting-place on their pilgrimage route back
+in the 12th century, but the present building is of Isabella's day, and
+the architect has given free rein to his silversmith's arabesques and
+medallions, and scattered pilgrim shells all over the façade of the
+church. We tried to get into the<a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a> Museum, now in the convent, as it
+contains some good wood carvings, but an aged beggar at the door
+explained "<i>Mañana</i>," the easy "to-morrow," as prevalent in León as in
+Andalusia,&mdash;then rising to the occasion as only an Italian or Spanish
+beggar can, he swept open his toga-draped cape, smiling as he pointed to
+the entrance door: "To-morrow, after your morning chocolate, it will be
+open for you."</p>
+
+<p>It was sunset as we turned away. The long mass of San Marcos stood
+boldly against the red glow of the sky. The horizon was outlined by the
+blue mountains of Asturias. With our imagination filled with the old
+days when pilgrims flocked here from England, from the forests of
+Germany, from the Po and the Danube, suddenly over the ancient bridge
+rode a troop of cavaliers on prancing steeds, in cloaks and plumed hats.
+The kindly blessed illusion hid the fact that our pilgrim-knights were
+sturdy peasants in the national <i>capa</i>, riding their long-haired horses
+back from the city fair.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Sin el vivo calor, sin el fecundo<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Rayo de la ilusión consoladora<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">¿Que fuera de la vida y del mundo?"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">asks one of Spain's poets of the 19th century, Núñez de Arce, and in his
+native country it takes but little effort of the imagination to repeople
+the<a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a> solemn churches, the narrow city streets, or the treeless plain
+with the romantic figures of the past.</p>
+
+<p>The following day at dawn, after a miserable night in rooms like icy
+death, a true pilgrim night of endurance, we took the train for the
+west. As we entered the railway carriage <i>Reservado para Señoras</i> a
+sleepy railway-guard stumbled out of the further door; all through the
+journey in the north, we roused these cozily-ensconced
+railway-officials, for so rare are ladies alone on this route, that the
+conductors have fallen into the habit of sleeping in the carriage
+reserved for them. When our tickets were collected we were given many a
+severe look for daring to upset a <i>cosa de España</i>.</p>
+
+<p>On the way from León to Astorga, little over thirty miles, the
+realization of the old pilgrim route is vivid. Before reaching Astorga
+comes the paladin's bridge,<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> of Órbigo, where in the reign of
+Isabella's father ten <i>caballeros andantes</i> challenged every passing
+pilgrim to a bout of arms; if a lady came without a cavalier to fight
+for her, she forfeited her glove, if any knight declined<a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a> to fight he
+lost his sword and spur. The age of knight errantry which Cervantes has
+haloed with a deathless charm, breathes in this historic Pass of Honour.
+The leader, Suero de Quiñones, came of the great Guzmán family, to which
+St. Dominic belonged, and of which the Empress Eugénie was a scion. To
+show his captivity to his lady, every Thursday he wore an iron chain
+round his neck, but when victor in this tourney, it was removed with
+solemnity by the heralds. Suero's sword is to be seen to-day in the
+Madrid Armory where in an hour more of Spain's real history is learned
+than in years of reading.</p>
+
+<p>The Roman walls of Astorga, seen from the railway present an imposing
+appearance: here, as at León and Lugo, the frequent half-circular towers
+do not rise above the crest of the walls. Astorga must have looked just
+like this when the pilgrims rode by to the shrine of St. James. A closer
+inspection spoils the illusion however, for the proud city that once
+ranked as a grandee of Spain is to-day a very tattered and worn hidalgo,
+and there is a sad air of desolation about its plaza and crumbling
+walls. Whether or not it was because our ramble was by early morning
+before the inhabitants were astir, at any rate I brought away a picture
+of a depopulated town. There were but a few silent worshipers under the
+clustered<a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a> piers of the late-Gothic Cathedral, whose reddish tower is
+the important feature of the distant view. What had tempted us to pause
+a night in Astorga was the wood-carved <i>retablo</i> by Becerra in the
+Cathedral, but we found it by no means equal to the work of the carvers
+in Valladolid. Becerra had studied under Vasari in Rome, and the
+influence is shown too plainly. There is a curious weather cock on the
+church, a wooden statue called Pedro Mata, dressed in the costume of a
+singular tribe that lives in some thirty villages near by. The origin of
+the Maragatos is involved in mystery; some say they are the descendants
+of Moors taken in battle, some of Goths who sided with the Moors. During
+all these centuries they have kept separate from the people about them,
+like gypsies they marry only with themselves. They should not be
+confounded with <i>gitanos</i>, however, for the Maragatos are honest and
+industrious; they are the carriers of the countryside, with the
+privilege of taking precedence on the road. Here and there in Spain one
+stumbles on a strange, isolated relic of the past such as this. Astorga
+was still sleeping, in the literal as well as figurative sense, when we
+left; a walk on top of the walls looking out over the León plain, a
+regret that we could not sketch the artistic church of San Julián, with
+its faded green door and crumbling portal, and we turned<a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a> south. On the
+train I discovered that a five franc piece given me in change by the
+innkeeper, was nothing but a bit of silver-washed brass advertising the
+cakes of one Casimiro in Salamanca, and I, seeing the king's effigy, had
+thought it a genuine Spanish dollar,&mdash;it is easy to be caught napping in
+León.</p>
+
+<p>Zamora is not many miles from Astorga and like the other sleepy towns of
+the province, it too seems to feel it has a right to a long pause in
+obscurity after its heroic centuries of Moorish warfare. The great hour
+of the city was the time of the Cid; the "Romancero" should be in one's
+pocket here. One of its stirring incidents is the death of King
+Ferdinand I, in 1065, and its sequel of battles and sieges. The king
+lies on his deathbed, holding a candle, great prelates at his head and
+his four sons on his right hand. With the fatal propensity of Spanish
+rulers to bequeath discord, he divides his kingdom among his sons; to
+Don Sancho, Castile; León to Alfonso; the Basque provinces to García;
+the fourth son already was of enough importance, "<i>Arzobispo de Toledo,
+Maestre de Santiago, Abad en Zaragoza, de las Españas, Primado</i>." The
+king's daughter Urraca, she who had given the Cid's wife, Jimena, her
+jeweled hair-net, now complains bitterly that she is left out of the
+inheritance, so her dying father gives her the fortress-city of<a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a> Zamora,
+"<i>muy preciada, fuerte es á maravilla</i>," and "who takes it from you let
+my curse fall on him." In spite of which threat her wicked brother
+Sancho, besieges the city,&mdash;a Spanish proverb for patience runs: "<i>No se
+ganó Zamora en una hora.</i>" With Sancho comes his chief warrior Roderick
+Díaz de Bivar, given the title of Cid Campeador, Lord Champion, by the
+Moorish envoys who here met him. The Cid had wellnigh fought an entrance
+into the city when the intrepid Urraca ascends a tower&mdash;to-day called
+the Afuera Tower&mdash;and delivers her famous scolding.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"¡Afuera! Afuera! Rodrigo,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">El sóberbio Castellano!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>"Out! Out! Rodrigo, proud Castilian! Remember the past! When you were
+knighted before the altar of Santiago, and my father, your sponsor, gave
+you your armor, my mother gave you your steed, and I laced on your
+spurs! For I thought to be your bride, but you, proud Castilian, set
+aside a king's daughter to wed that of a mere Count!" And the ballad
+tells how the Cid, hearing her upbraiding with emotion, retired with his
+men.</p>
+
+<p>The only present attraction of the decayed town is its Cathedral, set
+high above the Duero on the edge of the bluff along which Zamora<a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>
+stretches. It was built by the Cid's confessor, Bishop Gerónimo, the
+dome above the transept crossing being an original feature which the
+bishop was to elaborate later in the old Cathedral of Salamanca; as
+Trinity Church, Boston, is copied from this last, Zamora has a special
+interest for the visitor from New England. We had a four hours' pause
+there, ample time to see the city. It was raining so dismally that my
+fellow traveler decided not to face a certain drenching, as the
+long-drawn-out town had to be traversed before reaching the Cathedral.
+In an unfortunate moment I started out alone for what I supposed would
+be a leisurely exploring of a venerable city. Fleeing in distress would
+better describe the reality, for every hooting boy and girl in Zamora
+followed at my heels. Whether it was a white ulster or an automobile
+veil tied over my hat as the wind was high, or just the unaccustomed
+figure of a stranger in those narrow streets, an excited crowd pursued
+me the whole length of the town. In front, walking backward,
+open-mouthed, went a dozen urchins, and behind came a long brigade I
+hardly dared look back on, it so increased with every step. Men hastened
+to their shop doors to wonder at the crowd, and the passers-by stood
+still in astonishment; a feeling of horror came over me at such
+publicity. In vain I fled into churches in the hope of escaping the
+relentless little pests;<a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a> when I emerged they greeted me with howls of
+pleasure. I angrily shook my umbrella at them, but that only added to
+the glorious excitement. Here and there a kind woman came to the
+bothered stranger's help, and scattered the crowd. The children merely
+scampered down side streets to meet me again in still greater numbers at
+the next corner. It is easy to laugh now that it is over, but at the
+time there is small amusement in fleeing through a foreign city pursued
+by forty hooting youngsters, to have them press round you in a stifling
+circle when you pause to look in your book, to have them gaze long and
+seriously at you, then burst into uncontrollable laughter so that in
+desperation you begin to feel if you have two noses or six eyes. We had
+decided that in most of the unfrequented towns of Spain, the children
+were a nuisance; in Zamora they were positive vampires. A visitor in the
+future had best wear black, a black veil on the head, a black
+prayer-book in the hand, as if on the way to church, then resembling
+other people, the children may let her pass. But a white ulster and a
+red guide book are magic pipes of Hamelin to lure every idle child in
+Zamora. In spite of wind and rain, and a lengthy disappearance within
+the Cathedral, it was only on reëntering the station, several hours
+after they had first seized on their prey, that the unsolicited escort
+left me, and<a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a> even then they hung round the door till the shriek of the
+engine told them the escaped lunatic who had given them so splendid an
+afternoon's entertainment was out of reach.<a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="GALICIA" id="GALICIA"></a>GALICIA</h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Blessed the natures shored on every side<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">With landmarks of hereditary thought!<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Thrice happy they that wander not lifelong<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Beyond near succour of the household faith,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The guarded fold that shelters, not confines!<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Their steps find patience in familiar paths<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Printed with hope by loved feet gone before<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Of parent, child or lover, glorified<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">By simple magic of dividing Time."<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">J<small>AMES</small> R<small>USSELL</small> L<small>OWELL</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">J<small>ERUSALEM</small>, Rome, Santiago,&mdash;perhaps this claims too much for the Spanish
+pilgrimage shrine? It would not in the Middle Ages, when the Christians
+of all Europe flocked there to pray beside the tomb of St. James the
+Elder, the patron of Spain invoked in the battle cry of her chivalry for
+a thousand years, "<i>¡Santiago y cierra España!</i>"&mdash;"St. James and close
+Spain!" A Latin certificate used to be given to every pilgrim, and it
+was kept among family records, for there were properties that could only
+be inherited if one had gone to Santiago Compostella. To-day Spaniards
+are the only devotees, though as I write I see that a band of English
+pilgrims with the Archbishop of Westminster at its head is visiting<a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a> the
+far-off corner of Galicia. Though few travelers turn out of their way
+there, it is one of the most characteristic spots to be seen in Spain, a
+solemn old granite city, with arcaded streets and vast half-empty
+caravansaries darkened with humidity and age.</p>
+
+<p>It takes over fifteen hours to go from León to Santiago, but the journey
+is a beautiful one, with mountains and fertile valleys, and rivers such
+as the Sill and that gem of the province, the Miño. At Monforte the
+railway branches, one line goes to Túy and Santiago, and the other turns
+up to Lugo and Coruña. We took this last, tempted by accounts of Lugo.</p>
+
+<p>It is indeed a unique little city, walled around without a break by
+Roman battlements forty feet high, on the top of which is the
+fashionable promenade of the town. With its walls and the view from
+them, it closely resembles Lucca. Lugo was a surprise in various ways.
+It had a hotel, the "Fernán Núñez," so up-to-date that it boasted a
+tiled bathroom with hot water and a shower bath. Not only the
+comfortable inn but the streets of the town were a model of propriety.
+As always, our steps turned first to the Cathedral, spoiled outside, as
+is unfortunately the way in Spain, by those two disastrous centuries,
+the seventeenth and eighteenth, but within being of the lovely
+transition period, Romanesque as it<a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a> merged into Gothic, with the arches
+just slightly pointed. The irrepressible Churriguera has worked himself
+into the inside of the church too; his canopy over the High Altar is
+abominable, though it would take more than that to detract from the
+simple solemnity of such a church. Lugo is one of the holiest spots in
+the Peninsula, like San Isidoro in León, it claims the privilege of
+perpetual exposition of the Blessed Sacrament, only more privileged than
+León, exposed night as well as day. So proud is the province of this
+ancient custom that the Host is represented on the shield of Galicia.</p>
+
+<p>No matter at what hour you enter the Cathedral, there are worshipers;
+two priests always kneel before the tabernacle, and they never kneel
+alone. The scenes of humble piety drew me back to the church again and
+again with compelling attraction. To me a Spaniard praying unconsciously
+before the altar is unequaled by any act of worship I have witnessed;
+not even the touching Russian pilgrims in Jerusalem kissing the pavement
+in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, nor the Arab at sunset kneeling
+alone in the desert, can impress more powerfully. It seemed as if this
+tranquil shrine of Lugo spread an influence of uplifting thought through
+the whole contented little town; in the quiet afternoon a withered
+grandmother knelt with her hands on the head of a little tot of<a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a> six who
+repeated the prayers that fell from the old lips, or three young women
+of the upper class sought a retired corner of the church to repeat
+together their daily chaplet; now in a side chapel, a peasant thinking
+herself unobserved, in a glow of devotion, encircled the altar on her
+knees.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving the west door of the Cathedral, we ascended the inclined path
+that leads to the promenade on top of the walls. It was sunset, an
+exquisite hour to look out on the well-wooded countryside, through which
+meandered the trout-filled Miño. In the distance were mountains. No
+wonder the Romans, who ferreted out most of the choice spots of Europe,
+used to come to this city for the thermal baths. The handsome modern
+Lugonians strolled around the ramparts, pausing to chat here and there
+in the semicircles made by the numerous towers of the wall. Now a
+white-haired matron draped in the national mantilla, loitered leisurely
+by, with some of the higher ecclesiastics of the Cathedral; now a mother
+and two grave, pretty daughters passed, watched discreetly by the young
+beaux. Evidently far-off little Lugo, tucked away in the unknown
+northwestern corner of Spain, had a social life that sufficed for
+itself, with no envy of Madrid and San Sebastián. The local contentment
+found everywhere in the country struck me as admirable. Will "progress"
+unsettle it? We could have<a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a> stayed a month in Lugo. To fish in the Miño,
+to ramble over the fertile country, to feel about one peaceful,
+contented human beings, would make a summer there a happy experience.</p>
+
+<p>When we went on to Coruña, a commercial town that, like seaports the
+world over, has a rough populace, we were glad to have first seen Doña
+Emilia Pardo Bazán's loved province at pretty Lugo. In travel there must
+always be, I suppose, some places that one slights; one knows if one
+stayed long enough they might show a pleasanter side. We treated Coruña
+in this way. Sir John Moore, buried at midnight during the Peninsula
+War, was our association with the town before going there, and for all
+we saw of it Sir John will remain the chief association of the future.
+We only saw the flat, commercial district that skirts the bay, not the
+headland where the old town lies. Slatternly beggars pestered us, bold,
+bare-legged girls stood mocking at the unaccustomed sight of foreign
+women traveling; it was with relief we took the diligence that started
+at noon for Santiago.</p>
+
+<p>I shall never cease regretting that we did not wait till the following
+day, when an electric diligence makes the journey, for that eight hours'
+trip over the hills to the capital was for us the only horrible
+experience of our tour in Spain. I wish I might blot out its memory, but
+as I am setting<a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a> down frankly everything that occurred, this scene of
+cruelty must be told of, too. In the omnibus with us were but two other
+people, and there were five horses; there seemed no reason to foresee
+trouble. For the first relay of twelve miles all went well, and we
+enjoyed looking back from the hills on the blue Atlantic where the
+headland of Coruña jutted boldly out. Our drivers treated the horses
+with consideration and dismounted at every ascent. But, alas, for the
+second relay, we changed men and changed animals. Two young vagabonds
+were now on the box, driving four such miserable, bony nags that it tore
+the heart to see the sores the rope harness had made. We protested at
+the use of such horses, but in vain. Twelve miles lay behind,
+twenty-four were ahead, there were no inns, so we hesitated to desert
+the diligence, but had we realized the two hours of purgatory we were to
+face, we had dismounted and walked back to Coruña.</p>
+
+<p>One young wretch drove with loud cries and slashing blows; the other
+alighted to beat the quivering animals up the hills. They guided so
+recklessly that we were once dashed down the bank into the gutter, and
+soon after run into a hay-cart and the wheels unlocked with difficulty.
+When at length they began to strike the spent beasts over the eyes our
+anger burst all bounds. In a heat of fury never before experienced, and<a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>
+I hope never again, we attacked those two brutal boys. I do not think
+they will soon forget that scene. At first they replied with impudence
+and went on lashing the horses. But impudence soon ceased. When two
+women are in earnest and are fearless of consequences, and have stout
+umbrellas, they win the day. The twelve miles of their escort over, and
+new horses harnessed to the diligence&mdash;those four pitiful, bleeding
+victims led away!&mdash;the two scoundrels slunk off, sore on arms and
+shoulders as well as shamed in spirit, for the country people who
+gathered round supported our protest. The remaining miles to Santiago
+finished well, with good drivers and stout horses. But never will the
+horror of those two hours leave me. In fairness I must add that this was
+the only scene of cruelty I saw during the eight months in Spain, and
+again and again I noticed plump happy donkeys who were treated as
+members of the family. It is far-fetched to account for this unfortunate
+instance by the bull-fight, since in countries that have no such
+spectacles, veritable skeletons are made to haul cabs, and poor jades
+are used for drag horses. But I cannot help seizing on this opening for
+a little tirade against the national game of Spain, which Fernán
+Caballero, who loved her home with passionate affection called,
+"inhuman, immoral, an anachronism in this century." The sports of other
+lands are<a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a> open to harsh criticism. I do not think a Spaniard is more
+cruel by nature than an Englishman; in both nations is a certain
+proportion of coarsened characters,&mdash;the northern country may keep them
+better out of sight in the slums.</p>
+
+<p>Northern Europe is to-day more humane to animals than southern Europe,
+because the women of the north have had greater freedom and have entered
+into philanthropic interests such as this. Kindness to animals is a
+modern movement everywhere (may the shade of St. Francis of Assisi
+forgive this half statement!) Spain need not be too discouraged by being
+behindhand. The bony exhausted horses used within my own remembrance on
+our American street-car lines, to drag cars laden each evening to twice
+the beasts' strength, would not be tolerated to-day, and this change has
+been wrought by societies for the prevention of cruelty to animals, the
+membership made up chiefly of women and children. Would that Spanish
+ladies could be pricked to action by the statement of a living French
+novelist, made in ignorance of late conditions in America and England,
+that kindness to animals is a Protestant virtue. It is neither
+Protestant nor Catholic, but common to all human societies where women
+are allowed to aid with their gentler instincts in the public welfare of
+their country. The bull<a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a> and the man are sport and skill, that part I
+can understand. It is the agony of the horses that is a disgrace to
+these shows, worn-out nags who can make no resistance are used, and when
+the bull gores them, their entrails are thrust back and the dying beasts
+pricked on to the fray. Herein lies the great difference between
+bull-fights to-day, which are debased money-making spectacles only taken
+part in by professionals, and the more chivalrous sport of earlier times
+when the hidalgo was <i>toreador</i>, and proper steeds that could defend
+themselves were used.</p>
+
+<p>The bull-fight is found in Spain so early that its origin from the Roman
+period in the Peninsula, or from the first Mohammedan conquerors, is
+disputed. The Cid took part in a game, and games celebrated the marriage
+of Alfonso VII's daughter Urraca to the king of Navarre. During the
+reign of Isabella's father, Juan II, the <i>corrida de toros</i> was much in
+vogue. Queen Isabella herself disliked the sport, and in one of her
+letters she vows never to witness it. On the birth of Philip II in
+Valladolid, Charles V killed a bull in the arena. The <i>fiestas</i>
+continued under the Hapsburg Philips, until the advent of the French
+Philip V, in 1700. He so slighted this national sport that gentlemen
+ceased to take part in it, and it sank to its present level. It is now
+so well paying an affair that the only way to reform it<a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a> would be
+through concerted action on the part of Spanish women. It is a crusade
+worthy of them.</p>
+
+<p>A night of rest in the hotel at Santiago and the painful scene of the
+day before was somewhat dimmed. Early in the morning I started out to
+explore the old pilgrim city. It has a distinct character of its own,
+seldom have I felt so decided a place-influence. It is very solemn, very
+gray, very stately and aloof. On many of the houses the pilgrim shell is
+carved; the streets are paved with granite and the vast hospices are of
+the same severe stone, moss-grown and damp; grass also grows between the
+big granite slabs of the silent, imposing squares. Santiago does not
+belong to our age. Modern towns do not name their streets after
+twelfth-century prelates, "Street of Gelmúrez, 1st Archbishop of
+Compostella," makes a novel sign.</p>
+
+<p>Here, as all over the land, the Cathedral was the magnet. I walked along
+the dark, arcaded streets in a Scotch drizzle, passed under Cardinal
+Fonseca's college and came out in the plaza before the west entrance.
+The west front is a baroque mass which those who can endure that style
+say is most successful. I cannot endure that style. It seemed to me
+doubly a pity that this late front should mask the chief treasure of
+Galicia, the <i>Pórtico de la Gloria</i>, which stands as an open<a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a> portico to
+the church, fifteen feet within this west door.</p>
+
+<p>Enthusiastic description had led us to expect much of what may be called
+the supreme work of Romanesque sculpture, in fact, it was this portico
+that had decided us for the long trip to Galicia. We were not
+disappointed. "<i>Es la oración más sublime que ha elevado al cielo el
+arte español.</i>" Neither photograph nor words can describe it; it is one
+of those matchless works that body forth the best of an age. The model
+of South Kensington does not give its nobility, for it is the setting
+before the lofty dim Romanesque nave that makes it a unique thing. When
+later, in Constantinople, I saw Alexander's sarcophagus, the thought of
+Santiago sprang instantly to my mind. Both bring a feeling of
+sadness;&mdash;one, simple flowing Greek of the best period, the other,
+crabbed, original, mediæval,&mdash;they are alike in the absolute sincerity
+with which each embodied the highest then attainable. Over the carvings
+of both are faded traces of color that give the finishing touch of the
+exquisite.</p>
+
+<p>The Archbishop, Don Pedro Suárez, in 1180 gave the commission for this
+portico to a sculptor named Mateo, whether Spanish or foreign is not
+known; he lived in Santiago till 1217. He must have been a close student
+of the Bible, for his symbolism is profound and harmonious. Above<a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a> the
+central arch is a solemn Christ, of heroic size, at his side the four
+Evangelists, figures of youthful beauty: the lion and the bull have
+settled themselves cozily in their patron's lap. Large angels on either
+side carry the instruments of the Passion. Very fine statues of the
+Apostles stand against the pillars of the central doorway. In the
+tympanum are small figures typifying the Holy City of Isaiah, and on its
+arch are seated, on a rounding bench, the twenty-four ancients of the
+Apocalypse, with musical instruments and vases of perfume. This is
+perhaps the most beautiful part of the portico. For hours one can study
+it. Some of the heads are thrown back in revery, some turned together in
+conversation. "The four and twenty ancients fell down before the Lamb
+having everyone of them harps and golden vials full of odours, which are
+the prayers of the saints" (St. John, Rev. V, 8). The carvings of that
+age were somewhat grotesque, but here the types are ideal, as beautiful
+in their way as Mino da Fiesole or Rossellino. When Master Mateo had
+finished his work, he made a statue of himself below the central column
+of the portico, kneeling toward the altar and humbly beating his breast;
+on this figure was written "architectus." Humility and a consummate
+profession of faith such as this went hand in hand.</p>
+
+<p>It is anticlimax, after the <i>Pórtico de la Gloria</i>,<a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a> to speak of the
+other sights of Santiago. On the plaza before the west end of the
+Cathedral stands the dignified Hospital Real, founded by Isabella and
+Ferdinand as a pilgrim inn. Two of the four patios are quaintly carved,
+and probably amuse the convalescents of the modern hospital lodged now
+in the building. It was a joy to find so many of Isabella's good deeds
+still bearing fruit. The nuns took us down to the big kitchen,
+white-tiled and spotless, where we saw the four hundred fresh eggs that
+arrive daily from the country; the tidy patients on the verandas showed
+clearly that no one suffered privations here. As we were leaving, the
+old chaplain of the institution ran after us to beg us to return to see
+something of which he was evidently vastly proud. When he ushered us
+into a tiled bathing room and turned on the water that dashed up and
+down and round about from every kind of new contrivance, he looked at us
+with a self-complacency that was adorable, as if he said: "There, you
+water-loving English, we're just as fond of it as you!" The excellently
+managed institution reminds one that this province produced Doña
+Concepción Arenal, sociologist and political economist, and withal a
+most tender-hearted Christian, whose books on prison organization and
+reform have been widely translated, and are quoted as authorities by the
+leading criminologists of Europe. For thirty years this admirable<a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a> woman
+was inspector of prisons. She died at Vigo in 1893, and Spain has since
+erected statues in her honor.</p>
+
+<p>In Galicia, as in Catalonia, there has been a revival of dialect
+literature. The Gallego tongue was the first in the Peninsula to reach
+literary culture, and in the Middle Ages two ideal troubadours wrote in
+it. Had not Alfonso <i>el Sabio</i> written chiefly in Castilian, thereby
+fixing that as the leading tongue, as Dante did the Tuscan in Italy, it
+is probable that the dialect of Galicia had prevailed. Portuguese and
+Gallego were the same language up to the fifteenth century, hence it is
+that the great critic Menéndez y Pelayo always includes Portuguese
+writers in his studies of Spanish literature.</p>
+
+<p>Galicia is fortunate in having an able living exponent, the Señora
+Emilia Pardo Bazán, whose novels are full of the charmed melancholy of
+the province. The Gallego is derided in other parts of Spain, his name
+is synonymous with boor, for he is judged by the clumsy <i>mozo</i> who seeks
+work in the south. "The more unfortunate a country the greater is the
+love of its sons for it. Greece, Poland, Hungary, Ireland, prove this,
+and the nostalgia is strongest in those of Celtic origin. Ask the rude
+Gallegos of South America what is their ambition&mdash;'To return to the
+<i>terriña</i> and there die' is the answer."<a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a></p>
+
+<p>In a collection of essays "De mi Tierra," Madam Pardo Bazán has told of
+the learned Benedictine, Padre Feijóo, the Bacon of Spain, whose caustic
+pen did away with so many of the superstitions of his age. It may be a
+bit pedantic for me to give biographies in these slight sketches, but it
+seems as if a truer idea of the race is conveyed in such lives than
+could be given in any other way. This native of Galicia, Padre Feijóo,
+had few equals in the Europe of his time in liberality of view. He was
+born of hidalgo parents near Orense, where his <i>casa solar</i> stands,
+still lived in by a Feijóo of to-day. He entered the Benedictine Order
+and in their cloisters passed most of his long life of eighty years, for
+half a century living in their Oviedo house. His unflagging industry,
+his clear intellect, and simple uprightness, won the admiration of all
+who knew him. "After fifteen years' intimate acquaintance with Feijóo,"
+wrote a scientist of the day, "never have I met, inside religion or out,
+a man more sincere, more candid, more declared enemy of fraud and
+deceit." Not till he was fifty did Feijóo commence to write. In 1731
+appeared the beginning of his "Teatro Crítico," essays that have been
+called the first step of Spanish journalism, written as they eminently
+were to communicate ideas to others. He had the passion to know why, a
+never-tiring love of investigation. Adopting the Baconian<a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a> experimental
+method, he attacked the superstitions and pseudo-miracles around him.
+<i>¡Ay! de mí Inquisición</i>! Were you asleep that you did not clap this
+independent thinker into your capacious dungeons? So strong was Feijóo's
+influence that Benedict XIV curtailed the number of feast days on his
+mere suggestion.</p>
+
+<p>This learned Benedictine monk was ahead of his age in many ideas. Are
+the stars not inhabited? he asked. Before Washington, he maintained that
+the Machiavellian theory of government, intrigue and diplomacy, which
+was then universally accepted in Europe, was inferior to friendly
+loyalty and honor. He preached compassion to animals generations before
+the age of our modern, humanitarian theories. With the painful
+remembrance of the diligence ride in Galicia, I was glad to find one of
+her sons advocating this. Feijóo stands out more prominently because of
+the intellectual desert around him. "The eighteenth century was an
+erudite, negative, fatigued." The Bourbons brought formality and
+sterility to spontaneous Spain. A dry soulless learning killed the
+creative power, and in every branch, art, music, and literature, the
+artificial rococo flourished. The two exceptions of vitality were Feijóo
+and the painter Goya. Had Padre Feijóo lived in our age, he might have
+been that great man hailed by De Maistre: "Attendez que l'affinité
+naturelle<a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a> de la science et de la religion les ait réunies l'une et
+l'autre dans la tête d'un homme de génie! Celui-là sera fameux et mettra
+fin au dix-huitième siècle qui dure encore." How much longer are we to
+wait for him,&mdash;this great man!</p>
+
+<p>If the only harrowing scene of the tour in Spain is to be associated
+with Galicia, so is one of the happiest, a day of such kindly chivalry
+that we felt the spirit of Isabella's time still endured. It was the
+chance of railway travel that introduced a modern knight to us. The
+journey back to Castile from Galicia is a most trying one. Some day
+perhaps an enterprising ocean line will put in at Vigo and run an
+express directly across country to Madrid; we were too early for such
+ease. From Santiago we had to take an afternoon train to Pontevedra, and
+there spend the night. At 5 <small>A.M.</small> (oh, those unforgettable, dark, cold
+railway stations of Spain!) we again took the train. It was dawn before
+Redondela was reached, and exquisite as a dream seemed the <i>rías</i>, the
+fiords of Galicia, with wooded mountains sloping to their shores. It is
+not hard to prophesy that this will be a great summer resort of the
+future.</p>
+
+<p>At Redondela we changed trains, getting into the express for Monforte,
+the only other occupant of the carriage being an elderly man, blue-eyed,
+very tall and erect, with the air of distinction<a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a> so frequently found
+among Don Quixote's countrymen. We had noticed him the night before in
+the Pontevedra hotel, and had thought him an Englishman, till in
+offering some service about our luggage he spoke in Spanish. As we were
+to spend fifteen hours in the same railway carriage, we soon entered
+into conversation. He came from Madrid each summer with a family of sons
+and daughters to spend some months in a castle among the mountains of
+Galicia. Evidently he was a lover of sport and of country life, for as
+we ran alongside the Miño River, with Portugal just across on the
+opposite bank, for hours he sat gazing out in enjoyment, and drew each
+beautiful thing to our notice. At noon we reached Monforte, where we had
+dinner in the station buffet. When we called for our account, to our
+astonishment the waiter told us it was settled already. We could not
+understand what had been done, till the proprietor himself came to
+explain. It seems it is a custom all over this generous land, for a man
+when he is with a lady or has spoken to her, to pay for everything she
+orders; tea, luncheon, even her shopping purchases. He does this with no
+offensive ostentation, but so quietly that he often slips away unnoticed
+and unthanked. Several travelers have since told me that they too met
+this hospitality; it had at first embarrassed them, but as there<a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a> was
+not the slightest impertinence nor even the personal about it, as it was
+merely an act of chivalrous respect, done with superb detachment, when
+the confusion of being paid for by a stranger was over, they remembered
+only the charming courtesy.</p>
+
+<p>The attentions of our kind host, for he seemed to look on two strangers
+in his land as his guests, did not stop at noontime, at tea he brought
+us platefuls of hot chestnuts. He tried to while away the hours
+pleasantly, playing games on paper in French and English; with all his
+dignified gravity the Spaniard is not blasé. Our struggles to learn his
+tongue rousing sympathy, it was from him we first heard of the pretty
+high-flown phrases still in daily use, how you bid farewell with, <i>Beso
+à V. la mano</i> (I kiss your hand), or <i>A los pies de V.</i> (I am at your
+feet); that the <i>Usted</i>, shortened to <i>V.</i>, with which you address high
+or low, is a corruption of "Your Majesty." Somehow there seems nothing
+absurd in addressing a Spanish peasant as "Your Majesty." The love of
+abbreviations is a curious trait in a people with such leisurely ways;
+thus, a row of cabalistic letters ends a letter: <i>S. S. S. Q. B. S. M.</i>,
+which means that your correspondent kisses your hand&mdash;<i>su seguro
+servidor que besa su mano</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Then the interest which we evinced in the institutions<a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a> and progress of
+Spain made him put his cultivated intelligence at our service, and we
+learned more in a day than in all the previous weeks. When I inquired
+into the vexed religious question he was able to explain much. As a
+rule, republicanism in Spain means avowed atheism and socialism; it has
+been well said that the republicanism of all Latin countries turns to
+social revolution. The socialists are a small, but well-organized band,
+international in character since their movements are directed from
+centers like Paris. They are chiefly in industrial cities such as
+Barcelona, Valencia, and Bilbao, where secret societies of anarchists
+abound, disguised as clubs for scientific study. The majority being of
+the rabble, repudiating all authority, ("civilization, that is the
+enemy!") their disorders would be called mob uprisings did they occur in
+Chicago, but deceived by the term "republicanism," the journals of
+England and America gave them too lenient a consideration. By no means
+devout himself, he assured us that what we saw on every side was for the
+most part very genuine religion, not sentiment with no result; for in
+those places where observance had slackened there was a marked
+difference in moral restraint, so potent a factor for morality was
+religion still in Spain. That there were faults none denied, but he had
+traveled enough to know the flaws of<a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a> other countries too well to be
+despairing of his own.</p>
+
+<p>He wrote for us a card of introduction to the big hospital of Madrid; he
+sought out a friend in another carriage, the son of the Admiral in
+Ferrol, who was rather up in statistics. Had we seen the asylum near
+Santiago where the insane are treated with such success that noted cures
+had been obtained? Had we met the archæologist of the province, a canon
+in the Cathedral? In short, from the questions and suggestions we
+realized that the average tourist goes through this reserved country
+half blind. Glad were we for this chance of insight. When in the dusk of
+evening it came time to descend at Astorga, our stopping-place for the
+night, and our fellow-traveler stood there shaking hands, with warm
+friendliness in his blue eyes, we felt there was no more thoroughbred
+specimen of manhood than a Spanish hidalgo.<a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="SALAMANCA" id="SALAMANCA"></a>SALAMANCA</h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"L'homme n'est produit que pour l'infini."<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">"Il y a des raisons qui passent notre raison."<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">"Se moquer de la philosophie c'est vraiment philosopher."<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">P<small>ASCAL</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">S<small>ALAMANCA</small> is in León province, and in comparison with the hour of its
+prime, as it is to-day it too is very like a sleeping city. It is hard
+to realize that this dull, small town was a <i>grandeza de España</i>,
+ranking with Oxford, Paris, and Bologna, that once 10,000 students
+flocked here from all over Europe, and every young Spaniard turned here
+as naturally as a modern Englishman to Oxford or Cambridge; Cervantes'
+"Novelas Exemplares" give the picture. To-day there are barely a
+thousand students, chiefly from its own province; among the ten
+universities of Spain the former leader takes a very lowly place.
+Madrid, the continuation of Cardinal Ximenez' University of Alcalá, may
+be called the modern Salamanca in intellectual leadership.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_salamanca_142_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_salamanca_142_sml.jpg" width="389" height="550" alt="Copyright, 1910, by Underwood &amp; Underwood
+
+View of Salamanca from the Roman Bridge" title="Copyright, 1910, by Underwood &amp; Underwood
+
+View of Salamanca from the Roman Bridge" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption"><small>Copyright, , 1910, by Underwood &amp; Underwood</small>
+<br />
+View of Salamanca from the Roman Bridge</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>In the Spanish Oxford one looks in vain for the numerous colleges of the
+city on the Isis. Alas! Salamanca is half a ruin. The French, in the
+Napoleonic invasion, destroyed the whole<a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a> northwest quarter of the
+town to make fortifications, undoing in a few brutal hours the work of
+centuries of culture and piety. In his despatches of 1812 the Duke of
+Wellington wrote: "The French among other acts of violence have
+destroyed thirteen out of twenty convents and twenty out of the
+twenty-five colleges which existed in this seat of learning." Twenty out
+of twenty-five colleges! The thought of Oxford's tranquil, age-crowned
+buildings makes one grasp the tragic wreck of the Spanish university;
+never while in Salamanca could I forget the desolate tract to the west,
+lying still a heap of ruins, untenanted save by wandering goats, those
+nomad creatures that give the culminating note of squalor to deserted
+districts.</p>
+
+<p>Our train approached the city across the plains from Zamora, through
+plantations of isolated trees and past droves of black sheep whose
+guardian stood patiently under the rain. For some time in the distance
+we saw the prominent church towers. Salamanca lay on the old Roman road,
+the Via Lata, that connected Cadiz with the north, but the Roman
+associations here are slight. As in Zamora, the Cid and his feats dwarf
+other interests, so here it is the picturesque days of the fifteenth and
+sixteenth centuries that fill the mind.</p>
+
+<p>Go down to the Roman bridge over the Tormes<a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a> and while away an hour
+watching the passers-by, and the old times seem to live again. Below in
+the river bed women wash and chatter from morning till night, spreading
+the gayly-colored clothes, red, yellow, and purple, over the stones to
+dry. If it is Sunday, into the city pour the hardy peasants for their
+one day of rest from the ungrateful work of the fields: girls in pale
+blue woolen stockings and smart, black pumps sit sideways behind their
+cavaliers on the long-haired nags whose backs are often shaved into a
+pattern; now out of the city jogs a brisk old woman on her donkey, laden
+with a month's purchases, an unpainted rush-bottom chair topping the
+pile; she nods to the strangers, <i>franceses</i>, she thinks, for a Spaniard
+takes all foreigners for his neighbors over the frontier: now a cart
+passes, whose shape and hue seem taken out of a romantic watercolor;
+then a young peasant in wide-brimmed sombrero, leather gaiters, silver
+buttons as big as dollars on his vest, clear-eyed and proud of carriage:
+then, salt to the picture, rides a burly <i>cura</i>, sitting well back on
+his tiny ass, a ridiculous figure were it not for his sublime
+unconsciousness, his innate self-respect. Ever the unspoiled, the
+vigorous, the untamed! Just so they came into Salamanca in the past when
+students with swords and velvet capes walked the streets, and so I hope
+they may do some hundred years from now,<a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a> for such lives of frugal
+contentment are unequaled. Localism and provinciality have been forced
+on Spain by nature, and it is this very provincialism which is her charm
+for the traveler. Fresh from a prosperous, new world, he may often long
+for certain changes here, for more widely diffused education, for free
+libraries, a more secure self-government; but such material prosperity
+is bought with a price. Remember that not in the length or breadth of
+this land are to be found the degraded human beings, vicious in soul and
+brutalized in shape of skull and feature, such as exist by the thousands
+in the slums of industrial countries. If the Spanish peasant must lose
+his hardy independence, if his frugal contentment, his heroic patience
+must pass with the old order of things (that lets a heap of ruins in the
+heart of a city lie untouched during a hundred years!) I cannot help
+wondering whether the price is not too high to pay. I am repeating
+myself, but the words come to one each day&mdash;it is beyond human nature to
+be consistent in Spain; she has the faculty, despite her glaring faults,
+of battering down one's Philistine certainty of northern superiority.</p>
+
+<p>The bridge, the plaza, and the cathedral; study your types there and you
+begin to know the real Spaniard. Not soon shall I forget, at Mérida, in
+wild Estremadura, as I loitered on the bridge,<a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a> a countryman stepping
+forward with the dignified, proud look of his class: "<i>¿Es más bonita
+que París?</i>" he asked, the interrogatory note added only in courtesy, so
+sure was he of my affirmative. Sleepy little Mérida, all a ruin, Knights
+Templars' castle as well as Roman theater and aqueduct, to the fellow
+<i>paisano</i> of Pizarro and Cortés, was finer than Paris. It is glimpses
+like this that make the prejudiced stranger judge the so-called
+backwardness of the country in kinder fashion. Where else could one see
+stately-moving cream-colored oxen pass unnoticed through the chief
+thoroughfare of a capital, a common sight in the Puerta del Sol of
+Madrid, where else will the customs officer of a big town stand to count
+with a pointing finger the skipping sheep driven past him, as on the
+Alcántara bridge at Toledo, where else will groups of goats be milked
+from door to door in a great commercial city like Barcelona? Salamanca,
+being the center of an agricultural district and off the express route,
+presents daily, scenes from the Georgics.</p>
+
+<p>Architecturally the old university city, despite her disasters, is of
+first importance. She has two Cathedrals, the smaller more perfect one
+of 1100, finding shelter by the side of its huge successor, to whom it
+yielded its rights as metropolitan in 1560. The exterior of the new
+Cathedral is over-rich and meaningless, it promises little for what<a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a> it
+holds within, where the lofty Gothic piers and arches have so impressive
+an air of majesty that architectural flaws are forgotten. It proves how
+much longer Gothic lasted in Spain than elsewhere in Europe. The
+triforium here is replaced by an elaborately-carved balcony that runs
+round the church, and high up are medallions colored with gold and
+Eastern hues, an enamel-like decoration which has been beautifully and
+sparingly used; the inner circle of the clearstory window and the round
+windows of the west end, have jeweled chains of color that modern
+churches could well imitate. As usual, the side chapels are full of
+treasures, and the sacristy boasts the very crucifix the Cid carried in
+battle. There is one bad defect: its apse has not the dim, mysterious
+curve of a cathedral, the east end being square, like a cold secular
+hall. Nestling under this gigantic pile is the loveliest thing in all
+Salamanca, the <i>catedral vieja</i>, its title in the old Latin proverb
+"fortis Salmantina." It is a small, Romanesque-transition church,
+unused, but in good repair, left unchanged by a sensible bishop when the
+services were removed to its more pretentious rival. The carvings of the
+capitals are boldly massive, there is a noticeably good, painted
+<i>retablo</i>, and among the numerous tombs&mdash;a Gregorovius could make a
+fascinating volume of Spain's alabaster knights and bishops!&mdash;there is
+one that is specially appealing.<a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a> It is in a chapel opening off the
+cloisters; a warrior in armor lies on his sarcophagus, beside him his
+wife, with a child's innocence of face, dressed in the nun's robe worn
+while her lord was fighting the Moors, with high pattens on her feet, a
+dainty little Castilian gentlewoman, mother of the prelate whose stately
+tomb fills the center of the chapel. The old Cathedral is so tucked in
+among buildings, that only one view of the exterior can be got, from a
+terrace leading from the south door of the later church, a view that a
+New Englander will return to often with a homesick feeling, for just
+such a scaly-tiled tower, window for window, line for line alike, rises
+in Copley Square, Boston. This cupola shows Byzantine influences since
+Spanish Romanesque was orientalized through Mediterranean trading.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the memories of a journey in Spain the happiest are the hours
+spent in her cathedrals, the starting out expectant, often with no map
+or book, for there are frequent glimpses of the church towers to guide;
+the first entering the noble structure which man's living enthusiasm
+raised, the first passing from one chapel to another in astonishment at
+the treasures they guard. Pierre Loti has a sketch on Burgos Cathedral,
+seen once only on a late afternoon, just as the verger was closing it,
+and he describes how unhappily he was affected by the lavish material<a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a>
+wealth. Pure artist that he is in his theory of seizing on a swift
+impression, the test may be successful for Philae or for the Parthenon,
+but it will not do for a Spanish cathedral, which is too complex, and
+can well hide its soul from the hasty tourist. May M. Loti forgive me
+for saying it, but certainly the way in which he saw Burgos differs
+little from the lightning-flash method of the Yankee tourist he
+despises. I think he must have had a cross indigestion that late
+afternoon, or perhaps it was his Huguenot blood rising in protest.
+Another of his countrymen, equally sensitive, "le délicat Joubert,"
+gives a less on-the-surface judgment: "The pomp and magnificence with
+which the Church is reproached are in truth the result and proof of her
+incomparable excellence. From whence, let me ask, have come this power
+of hers and these excessive riches except from the enchantment into
+which she threw all the world? She had the talent of making herself
+loved, and the talent of making men happy ... it is from thence she drew
+her power."</p>
+
+<p>Spain is richer than all other lands in church furniture: except for the
+uprising of 1835 against the monasteries, a movement more political than
+religious, there has been no terrible iconoclastic mania, such as in
+France and England; the cities which were looted, like Valladolid and
+Salamanca,<a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a> during the French invasion, suffered in a different way.
+Then, too, Spanish cathedrals do not part with their art treasures; the
+gifts of personal and inappropriate jewels when they have accumulated
+too needlessly are sometimes sold for the benefit of the church, but the
+art treasures made for the service of the Altar are not parted with. In
+Valencia it is told that Rothschild's agent tried in vain to buy
+Benvenuto Cellini's silver pax there: $10,000 $15,000, $20,000, he
+offered: "<i>Las cosas de la catedral no se venden</i>," was the answer.
+"$50,000," said the agent. The Cathedral was poor and needed repairs.
+"It is useless," was the firm answer of the Chapter, "We do not sell the
+things of the Altar." In Salamanca the verger told us that an Englishman
+had offered an immense sum for the iron screen round the tomb of Bishop
+Anaya (his mother the dainty little lady in pattens) and though the
+screen was in an unused chapel of the <i>catedral vieja</i>, it was refused.
+These unsullied temples of the Holy Spirit, where stately ceremonials
+are still an every-day occurrence, differ in every city, the carven
+wealth of Burgos, the soaring grace of León, the solid grandeur of
+Santiago, Toledo, a dream of His House, Seville, rising imposing past
+expectation, the small, dark symmetry of Barcelona, the solemn space of
+prayer before Avila's high altar, Sigüenza's<a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a> tomb-filled chapels,
+Saragossa, draped with priceless Flemish tapestries for the feast,
+Palencia dim and holy at daybreak, worship-bowed Lugo,&mdash;indelible
+memories of beauty and exaltation, the cathedrals of Spain are not mere
+artistic memorials of the past, their soul is not fled. Such churches
+cannot but have an influence on the people among whom they rise. If on
+one of different race they impress themselves with the actuality of a
+living experience, what must they mean to those whose childhood and old
+age have known them in solemn moments. I came across an autobiographical
+bit by the novelist Alacón, describing the influence on him of one of
+these great churches of the past. He grew up in the small Andalusian
+city of Gaudix, like many Spanish towns its great day being well over;
+the only grandeur left, the only palace inhabited, was the <i>iglesia
+mayor</i>: "From the Cathedral I first learned the revealing power of
+architecture, there first heard music and first grew to admire pictures;
+there also in solemn feasts, mid incense, lights, and the swell of the
+organ, I dreamed of poetry and divined a world different from what
+surrounded me. Thus faith and beauty, religion and inspiration, ambition
+and piety were born united in my soul."</p>
+
+<p>On the way to the Cathedrals each day we passed through the arcaded
+plaza, which at the<a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a> noon and evening hours was thronged with an
+animated crowd; we noticed once more the democratic relation between the
+classes, smart officers in pale blue uniforms strolled up and down
+chatting with plain countrymen whose capes, tossed over the shoulder,
+let the gaudy red and green velvet facing be seen. The daily walk
+brought us past the House of the Shells, whose walls are studded with
+the pilgrim emblem, and one day as I paused to look into the lovely
+inner court, the owner came out, prayer-book in hand, on her way to
+church, and with the grave courtesy of her race, she invited the
+stranger in to examine her romantic dwelling. Most of the buildings in
+the city are a light brown sandstone that suits the gorgeous surface
+decoration of Isabella's period, here seen in its full glory. There is
+no pure early-Gothic in the city; Romanesque-transition is found in the
+old Cathedral, and late florid-Gothic in the new Cathedral, later still
+some baroque extravagances, since Salamanca claims a doubtful honor as
+the birthplace of that exponent of bad taste, José Churriguera. But the
+style that is supreme here is the Plateresque, the silversmith period
+when late-Gothic and Renaissance met: the façades seem as if molded in
+clay, so lavish is their work. In one respect Salamanca has been more
+fortunate than its rival Oxford, in having used a stone soft in
+appearance,<a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a> but so durable that the chiseling is almost as finished
+to-day as when first cut. Everywhere in the town this Plateresque work
+is found; at times more Renaissance than Gothic, as in Espíritu Santo, a
+convent like Las Huelgas for noble ladies, or as in the beautiful patio
+of the Irish College; the Dominican church of San Esteban is more Gothic
+than Plateresque.</p>
+
+<p>Like the Jesuits, the second of the monastic orders whose cradle is
+Spain, may well be proud of the record in its native land. The society
+of Ignatius can boast besides its saints, scholars like Ripalda, Lainez,
+Salmerón, Isla, Suárez, Mariana, the great historian, and Hervás y
+Panduro, "the father of philology," who has been credited by Professor
+Max Müller with "one of the most brilliant discoveries in the history of
+the science of language." And the Dominicans can claim a de Soto, a
+Melchor Cano, Luis de Granada, Las Casas, defender of the Indians, and,
+fame of this special monastery of Santo Domingo, a Diego de Deza, the
+protector of Columbus. With this learned man, tutor to Isabella's only
+son, lodged the discoverer years before his memorable voyage, and it was
+in a room called De Profundis, leading from the cloisters, that he first
+explained his theories to the community who espoused his cause with
+perseverance, in opposition to the stupid savants of the University.
+They, appointed by the<a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a> Queen to investigate his claims, found them
+"vain and unpractical," not worthy of serious notice. On the 400th
+anniversary of Columbus' discovery, a memorial statue was put up in the
+square near the mediæval tower of Clavero: on the pedestal are reliefs
+of his two patrons, Isabella, and Fray Diego de Deza, "<i>gloria de la
+orden de Santo Domingo, protector constante de Cristóbal Colón</i>."</p>
+
+<p>Imposing as is San Esteban, the triumph of the Catholic Kings' heraldic
+style of architecture is the façade of the University Library, as
+autobiographic of its age as is Santiago's <i>Pórtico de la Gloria</i> of an
+earlier century. It is one mass of delicate carving, badges, medalions,
+and scrolls, increasing in size as it rises, so that an effect of
+uniformity is obtained. There is the true ring of that chivalrous
+generation in the inscription, "The Kings to the University, and this to
+the Kings," you raise your head proudly with a flash of the eye, feeling
+for a moment that you are almost a Spaniard yourself.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_fachada_salamanca_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_fachada_salamanca_sml.jpg" width="383" height="550" alt="Façade of the University Library, Salamanca" title="Façade of the University Library, Salamanca" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">Façade of the University Library, Salamanca</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Opposite the library's façade is a statue of one of the University's
+noted men, that attractive personality, Fray Luis de León. Tall,
+stalwart, for he came of a warrior race of Spanish grandees, ascetic,
+with intellectual forehead, a man capable of sainthood, of the type
+noble, he faces the school where he studied as a youth and passed a
+later<a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a> life in research and teaching. In Luis de León is found an
+equilibrium of character, a magnanimity united with genius, which often
+distinguished the men born in the <i>siglo de oro</i>. This Augustinian monk
+was a deep theologian, ahead of his times, as most deep thinkers are; he
+made a translation of the Songs of Songs too advanced for the age, and
+his enemies accused his orthodoxy to the Inquisition. For five years he
+lived in confinement, and it was during this semi-imprisonment that he
+wrote his great mystic book, "Los Nombres de Cristo," and also some of
+his lyrics. The University remained loyal to him by refusing to place
+another lecturer in his seat; then when he had justified himself before
+the Holy Office, he was set at liberty, and a host of friends
+accompanied him back to his post. He entered the lecture hall quietly,
+after his five years of absence, and opened the discourse with rare
+tact, a generous, high-minded overlooking of personal rancour:
+"Gentlemen, as we were saying the other day." This famous mot of Luis de
+León, "<i>como decíamos ayer</i>," shows a quality unexpected in Spain, but
+characteristic often of her sons, that of amenity, a kindly tolerance of
+the world's foibles, found in Cervantes, and to show it has not died
+out, this same amenity was a predominating trait of the late
+distinguished novelist, Don Juan Valera. Luis de<a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a> León, true follower of
+his patron Augustine, knew that there is no sin that one man commits
+that all men are not capable of, if not helped by God. "Even while he
+aspires, man errs."</p>
+
+<p>Had the erudite monk been merely a scholar, he had been a personality in
+his own day, but would not be alive for us; but he can claim an enduring
+fame. Professor Menéndez y Pelayo calls him the most exalted of Spanish
+lyric poets, and names his "Ascensión," "Al Apartamiento," "A Salinas,"
+"A Felipe Ruiz," "Alma Región Lucient," "La Noche Serena," as the six
+most beautiful of Spanish lyrics. Learn them by heart, he says, and they
+will astonish you with each repetition. Luis de León had the
+Wordsworthian note of simple living and high thinking, of a personal
+love of nature, long before the Lake School: the "Ode to Retirement"
+might have been penned at Grasmere. Everything led his soul to God; he
+fed on the mystics and rose to their height and serenity of thought.
+From his love of the classics came his sobriety of form and purity of
+phrase; he is a true Horacian, penetrated as well by the spirit of the
+great Hebrew writers, with the <i>espíritu cristiano</i> added, yet though
+drawing his culture from many sources he is personal and modern. Such
+praise from the great critic sends one to an enthusiastic study of Fray
+Luis, and a knowledge of his poems<a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a> makes the visit to his tomb in
+Salamanca more than one of mere curiosity.</p>
+
+<p>Like most of the cities and villages of León province, this one too lies
+asleep, resting on its former honors, though there are hints, such as
+the new hospital, that she is rousing herself to life. She feels a
+confidence in her own future, as is subtly shown in the decoration of
+the plaza, where empty spaces are left for the names of coming great
+men. It is with this city of the past that the most homelike memory of
+our tour in Spain is associated, the happy hour round an English
+tea-table eating bread and butter, and chatting at last, oh so eagerly,
+in one's native tongue. It was the rector of the Irish college who gave
+us this delightful taste of home, and fresh from six weeks of freezing,
+stone-paved rooms, of cinnamon-flavored chocolate, how we appreciated
+his hospitality! The school of young seminarians is housed in one of the
+five remaining of the University buildings, but only moved here when the
+original college, founded by Philip II and dedicated to St. Patrick, was
+demolished by Ney and Marmont's soldiery.</p>
+
+<p>We found our host in his library poring over a Greek book with a
+professor from the University, and we were welcomed with the
+heart-warming kindness of his native land. The professor obviously hoped
+the invading Americans would<a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a> not tarry long, but he little knew that a
+Celtic host in the heart of Spain and a cozy tea-table at the critical
+hour of a raw, bleak day made a combination not to be resisted; we
+lingered into the late afternoon and left reluctantly indeed. I would
+wish for all travelers a friendly visit to the <i>Colegio de Nobles
+Irlandeses</i>, that they might see the tall, northern-looking lads pacing
+up and down the sculptured sixteenth-century courtyard, might pause in
+the Chapel, and look out from the library windows over the city, with a
+genial cicerone to name the churches and colleges; then Salamanca would
+not seem a dead city, but a peaceful, contented survival of the past.<a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="SEGOVIA" id="SEGOVIA"></a>SEGOVIA.</h2>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<span class="i0">"No hay un pueblo esclavo<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Si no lo quiere ser:<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">¡Cantad, españoles!<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Cantad! Cantad!"<br /></span>
+</div>
+
+<p class="c">(Hymn sung May, 1908, for the centenary of <i>Dos de Mayo</i>.)</p>
+
+<p class="nind">W<small>E</small> reached Segovia at five o'clock in the early morning of November
+first after an indescribably fatiguing day and night of travel, the one
+confusion of our tour in Spain, and partly owing to a mistake in the
+usually reliable guide book. It may be of help to other travelers if I
+describe this misadventure. On returning from Galicia, we had left the
+express route at Astorga, and pausing there a night, took the local line
+south to Zamora and Salamanca. After a stay of some days in the old
+university city, we were lured out to a small town, fifteen miles away,
+Alba de Tormes, where St. Teresa died. It seemed unnecessary to return
+to Salamanca in order to go on to Avila, since a diligence ran to Avila
+from a town not far from Alba de Tormes. Our book gave the distance of
+this ride as fourteen miles, whereas fourteen leagues, more than three
+times fourteen miles, would be nearer the truth. For,<a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a> on reaching Alba
+we found it was a diligence journey of over ten hours; with the roads in
+a frightful condition after a month's rain, the trip was out of the
+question. So spending the night at Alba de Tormes, we went back to
+Salamanca, there to find it was not the special day for the train that
+connects directly with the express route south. Whereupon it seemed
+best, rather than to wait a couple of days for this train, to take the
+long trip round by Zamora and Toro to the junction Medina del Campo,
+whence the express route to Madrid branches, one line passing by Avila,
+another by Segovia.</p>
+
+<p>It happened to be eight minutes before the starting of the train, when I
+went to the ticket office at Salamanca with my <i>carnet kilométrique</i>,
+yet nevertheless the agent refused me the tickets, saying that his
+office closed five minutes before the starting of each train. "But there
+are yet eight minutes," I exclaimed. His personal watch said five; so we
+were obliged to start without the usual complementary tickets. We
+decided to descend at the first stop and there have our kilometrics torn
+off, but before reaching this station the conductor came to collect
+tickets, and by his face, false and mobile, we knew we were in for a
+struggle. We explained our dilemma and offered the one peseta, ninety
+centimes, which was marked in his book and our own, as the full first<a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>
+class tariff for twelve kilometers. He contemptuously refused and
+demanded eight pesetas each for that short ride of eight miles. We did
+not hesitate to refuse; whereupon when we reached the stopping station
+he tried by confused explanations to prevent the agent there from giving
+us the necessary complementary tickets. But fortunately in the hurry to
+procure them during the few minutes of our pause, I had stumbled in
+stepping from the carriage and slightly cut my hand on the pebbles. This
+roused the Spanish sense of chivalry and the agent moved aside the
+conductor and gave me what I asked. We again offered this latter the
+lawful fare for the eight miles we had ridden without tickets, and again
+he demanded eight pesetas. On reaching Zamora, he boldly brought up the
+Chief of that station, a trickster in league with him, and both demanded
+the unjust fare. A Spanish gentleman was passing, and seeing two ladies
+in trouble, stopped to ask if he could be of assistance. When we
+explained the case, he asked us to give him the lawful fare and turning
+to the station-master and the conductor, presented it to them with a
+scathing rebuke: like beaten dogs they slunk away. Several times
+gentlemen came to our aid in this way, as if it hurt their pride to have
+their race so misrepresented.</p>
+
+<p>It is this petty thieving among a class that<a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a> should be above it, such
+as postal clerks and railway officials, that rouses the traveler's harsh
+criticisms of Spain and makes him so unjust to her. The radical cure
+lies in the men being better paid, for their salaries are such pittances
+that many of them look on extortion as their right. The tourist can do
+something toward lessening the abuse, by firmly refusing to be cheated.
+Our experience was that firmness always won the battle; if one is of a
+fiery temperament there is a scene, if one is phlegmatic, one sits
+immovable as a rock and lets the other storm. If one yields finally one
+has the scene as well as the putting of oneself in the wrong.</p>
+
+<p>To continue our day of ill-luck. From Zamora, we crawled along the dull,
+local line to the junction Medina del Campo, which we reached at eleven
+at night. We then changed our plans and got tickets for Segovia,
+deciding to leave Avila till later. At Medina we spent six weary hours
+in the waiting room, strolling up and down the windy platform, entering
+the buffet now and then to drink coffee, trying to rouse imaginative
+interest by thinking this was the spot where Isabella the Queen had
+died. But in vain, it was too dismal. How we abused Baedeker! And how we
+abused Spain and her railway system! Trains came and went, men muffled
+in their cloaks entered and left the dark waiting room,<a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a> we the only
+impatient ones. A Spaniard accepts such things in full piety. Whoever
+heard of going faster than twenty miles an hour and what more natural
+than to wait in a station between trains half a night?</p>
+
+<p>At two o'clock that raw windy morning we boarded the express to Segovia
+and finding the ladies' compartment full, for we were now on the direct
+route from Paris, we had to force ourselves into the carriage with two
+furiously cross, sleepy Frenchmen.</p>
+
+<p>High, cold Segovia, almost 3,000 feet above the sea! A wind, <i>de todos
+los demonios</i>, was blowing that bleak first of November, and to give the
+final small touch of ill-luck, it lifted and bore away to the mysterious
+darkness outside, a treasured veil that the sun had at length toned to a
+rare tint. We stumbled into the ill-lighted station-buffet for more hot
+coffee, sending the luggage ahead to the sleeping hotel; for the
+faithful hotel-omnibus had been there waiting as usual. Strange memories
+remain of Spain's station restaurants,&mdash;the flitting waiters filling the
+bowls of coffee for the silent travelers, (no man is more silent than a
+traveling Spaniard);&mdash;frugal enduring scenes, not a touch of comfort,
+one eats to live indeed. "The French taste, the Germans devour, the
+Italians feast, the Spaniards <i>se alimentan</i>!"<a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a></p>
+
+<p>As the dawn was breaking we left the station and walked, buffeted by the
+gale, through the mournful streets that lead to the town, passing on the
+way the Artillery Academy, where the country's crack regiments are
+trained. As we descended to the market place below the steep hill on
+which Segovia is built, a sight greeted us that repaid a thousand fold
+for the dreary day and night of unnecessary travel, for guide-book
+blunders, personal stupidity, dishonest officials, collarless, cross
+Frenchmen and even lost automobile veils. For there, rising one hundred
+and fifty feet in noble dignity and proportion, its boulders held
+together by their own weight, without cement or clamping, stood the
+giant Roman aqueduct that Trajan left his native land, and framed by its
+arches were hills, villages, and churches, under a sky of delicate rose.
+Never was there a lovelier sunrise, fragile, shell-like, dewy.</p>
+
+<p>We climbed the steps that mount to the city beside the aqueduct, pausing
+again and again to look at the stupendous thing. Then we passed through
+quiet streets, with Romanesque doorways at every step (Segovia with
+Avila has the best portals in Spain) till we reached the hotel. Though,
+later, the night in Medina del Campo station revenged itself in a twenty
+hours' sleep, we were now too deeply fatigued to rest, and so soon were
+afoot again. A stone's throw brought<a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a> us to the central square of
+Segovia, on one side of which is prominent the apse of the late-Gothic
+Cathedral. We pushed beyond it, here and there pausing to study some
+ancient doorway or to enter a carved courtyard, till at length the
+street ended in the big open space before the superbly set Alcázar, and
+we looked out on that memorable view.</p>
+
+<p>With the towering Roman aqueduct on one side of the town and this Castle
+at the other, Segovia may claim to be one of the most picturesquely set
+cities in the world. The view from the Plaza de la Reina Victoria before
+the Alcázar is one of the unforgettable sights of the Peninsula, of the
+inmost fiber of Castile. On the horizon lies one of Spain's sad,
+isolated villages. A winding road leads to it, along which plod the
+familiar carriers of the land, brothers of Sancho's patient Rucio; the
+rocky hills stretch away, dotted with ancient churches. Close to the
+city lie oases of trees and gardens such as the monastery enclosure of
+La Parral, with its noticeable stone pines. The Alcázar with its
+bartizan towers is built on a lofty crag that rises like the prow of a
+giant ship above the meeting of two bosky little streams, the Eresma
+which yielded the "trout of exceeding greatness" whereon Charles I of
+England supped in this castle, and the peaceful brook, Clamores. Thus in
+one landscape are united<a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a> hardy uplands, leafy parks, a mediæval town
+with church towers and fortified castle, making a scene whose
+individuality is beyond beauty, whose profound charm never palls. Here
+one communes with the silent, inner soul of Spain, the land of Isabella,
+of Garcilaso, of Teresa, of Cervantes, not a trace of whose spirit is
+found in Madrid, but in such spots as Toledo and Avila and this.</p>
+
+<p>Segovia merits a prolonged stay. There were two Englishwomen in our
+hotel, who had passed months painting in the unfrequented city and found
+it a treasure house for the artist. It is full of Romanesque churches of
+the 11th and 12th centuries; so many are there that some are unused and
+falling into decay. The two best are San Martín and San Millán; the
+first, in the center of the town, surrounded by noticeable houses, has
+outside cloisters, that serve as a sunny lounging place for the people.
+From San Martín you can descend to San Millán by the steps beside the
+Plaza Isabel II. Apart from the church itself, with colossal animals
+carved on its capitols, the view from its porch is a most beautiful one,
+including the aqueduct, the Cathedral, and climbing houses, part of
+whose foundations it is plain to see are the apses of ancient churches.</p>
+
+<p>Segovia's Cathedral is not Romanesque like most of her churches, but
+late-Gothic, designed by<a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a> the same architect who did Salamanca's new
+Cathedral, and like it, though a poor thing exteriorly, the inside is
+dignified and effective: it is more fortunate than its sister church in
+having a curved east end, not Salamanca's cold hall-like apse. The
+cloisters of Segovia belonged to the earlier Cathedral; they were taken
+down and skillfully reset here; the pillars being elliptical in shape
+like Oviedo, are not thoroughly pleasing. In a chapel opening out of the
+cloisters is the touching, small tomb of the prince whose nurse dropped
+him by accident from a window of the Alcázar, back in the 14th century;
+and a good example of the countless rare tombs of Spain is the bishop,
+with an exquisite ascetic face of chiseled marble, who lies in the
+passage leading to the cloisters.</p>
+
+<p>As we were in Segovia on All Saints' Day, we went to the celebration in
+the Cathedral, saw the prelate&mdash;the train of his red robe held by
+bearers&mdash;met at the church door by the canons and conducted in state to
+his throne. The vergers were very gorgeous; the leader carried a silver
+staff and wore a white wig and a white robe, his two assistants also in
+white wigs but with red velvet robes. The following day, All Souls',
+these vergers were dressed in mourning, and in the center of the
+black-draped church was placed, with true Spanish realism, a covered
+bier. On All Saints' Day there was really good music on the<a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a> organ whose
+pipes flared out over aisles and choir; also an excellent sermon to
+which all listened in rapt attention, officers, peasants, and grave
+faced hidalgos standing in a characteristic group around the pulpit. The
+best way to learn Spanish and to learn more than the lip language of
+this race, is to listen to the sermons. Their eloquence is natural and
+contagious, and the peroration, delivered with <i>brio</i>, is often an
+artistic treat. Attend the sermons and frequent the early morning
+services, and you stumble on scenes of unobtrusive piety that tell you,
+despite some Spanish pessimists, that the soul of religion still lives
+in this land of the latest crusaders. As Sunday was the day we had set
+for the trip to La Granja, I went early to the Cathedral, and at Mass in
+a dark chapel of the apse, I watched long two gallant little lads of
+twelve and fourteen, smart in their artillery uniforms, swords, and
+white gloves. They went to Communion with their mother, who, like most
+Spanish women in church, was dressed in black with a draped veil, a
+fashion that lends an air of distinction to the plainest. This group of
+three remained to pray after the others had left the chapel, remained as
+a pleasure really to pray, the serious, high-browed, little faces bent
+over their books of devotion as they read the After-Communion devotions
+by the light of a tall candle placed on the floor beside them; then
+their blue<a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a> eyes closed in such sweet, unconscious piety that it touched
+the heart strangely. And when, their prayers over, they left the
+Cathedral, each seized the mother's arm with a gay scamper of
+delight&mdash;she probably on a visit to them&mdash;and now for a whole day of
+vacation and enjoyment!</p>
+
+<p>In the same uniform as the small Communicants of Segovia Cathedral,
+other embryo artillery officers fill the city. At our hotel was a table
+where a number of the older students dined each day. They were well-bred
+lads with inborn sedateness, never boorish nor loud-voiced; noblesse
+oblige still is a reality in spite of the dissipated, smart set in
+Madrid by which we too often generalize. I shall not soon forget the
+look of pained displeasure with which they watched the over familiar
+treatment of the waiter by a foreign lady.</p>
+
+<p>It does not seem to me too harsh a statement to make that Spain's
+neighbor across the Pyrenees, has little of this chivalrous idealism
+among her boys. There are exceptions of course; the manly carriage of
+the <i>brancardiers</i> of Lourdes, those bands of young men who voluntarily
+serve as bearers of the crippled and stricken, show that a remnant still
+exists of the race of the Rochejacqueleins, of the Montalemberts, of
+those who can serve, unpaid, an ideal. Frenchmen themselves will not
+maintain that such are the average.<a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a> Whereas the average Spanish, like
+the average English lad, has a strong dash of the Quixote and is capable
+of disinterested enthusiasm. Proof of this radical difference is that
+first important step in manhood, marriage. In Spain there is not the
+pernicious system of dowries; as a rule it is personal attraction that
+wins a husband. French people will assure you, that though one may be
+hump-backed and villainously ill-tempered, if there is a dot one is
+married; one may be grace and intelligence incarnate, without the dot
+one goes unwedded to the grave; the shrewd, interested love of money is
+in young as well as old. Spanish young people are romantic. Midnight
+serenades and evening hours of chatting by the <i>reja</i> are signs that
+hint marriage here is more than material settlement, love more than an
+impulse of nature; Spain's novels tell of this idealism. In many vital
+points the Spanish people are more akin to the English than to their
+Latin brothers.</p>
+
+<p>The Sunday morning that we took the diligence for our country excursion
+started cloudless. La Granja lies seven miles outside Segovia, on the
+Guadarrama Mountains, and is the residence of the Court for part of each
+summer. The diligence rattled down the precipitous streets of Segovia,
+passed under the towering aqueduct, "the devil's bridge" the peasantry
+call it, then<a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a> mounted the swelling hills to the palace at San
+Ildefonso. It had formerly been a farm belonging to the monks of La
+Parral; Philip V turned it into an artificial French pleasure ground,
+and built a formal chateau, a Bourbon creation that is strangely out of
+place on the rugged hills. The park is well-wooded but all rural charm
+is spoiled by the neo-classic fountains, some of them like monstrous
+dreams. Before we reached the leafy avenues of San Ildefonso, the sky
+became overcast and a heavy rain began. Five minutes after leaving the
+diligence we were so drenched that it seemed as sensible to explore the
+palace grounds as to pause chilled and wet in a miserable hotel. Then
+when we found the diligence did not return to Segovia till the evening
+and that no carriage would start in the storm, in an ill moment we
+decided to walk back to the city. A wind that cut like a knife made it a
+feat beyond our strength, and some miles along that bleak way, when a
+cart passed, we abjectly begged a passage. Yet, standing patiently under
+the drenching rain, oblivous to the tearing wind, the contented young
+shepherd girls watched their flocks.</p>
+
+<p>If this poor imitation of Versailles has little in itself to charm the
+tourist, La Granja has been the scene of so many striking events in
+modern Spanish history that it merits a visit. It was there that Godoy,
+favorite of Charles IV's wife, signed<a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a> away Spain to Napoleon, the
+criminal act that led to such glorious consequences. For then Spain, the
+country which had lain downtrodden under three centuries of misrule,
+shedding her blood in wars for her wretched kings' personal ambitions
+and giving her treasure for their extravagance, awoke suddenly to life
+when she found the king had outraged her. Two young heroes, Daoiz and
+Velarde, artillery officers, turned the cannon on the French invaders in
+Madrid, that memorable <i>Dos de Mayo</i>, 1808, and the War of Independence
+began, the starting point of regeneration, the second Cavadonga.</p>
+
+<p>That outburst of national vigor has never had justice done it. We know
+the Peninsula War from the English point of view, a ceaseless
+disparagement of Spain's part in it.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> It is true that without the
+English armies the war would have dragged on in disorderly, guerrilla
+fashion, for misrule had robbed the people of skill in self-government
+and organization. But remember the glorious year 1808, whose centenary
+all Spain was celebrating during the months of our visit, was before the
+arrival of Wellington's troops. The <i>Dos de Mayo</i>, the Battle of Bailén,
+where a<a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a> Spanish general with Spanish troops brought about the surrender
+of twenty thousand of Napoleon's trained soldiers, and the sieges of
+Saragossa and Gerona, unmatched in all modern history for heroism, were
+in 1808-1809. It is just to remember that when Germany, Austria, Italy,
+and Russia yielded in part to the invader, Spain stood firm against him,
+and the nation that Europe thought unnerved and debased "presented a
+fulcrum upon which a lever was rested that moved the civilized world."</p>
+
+<p>La Granja has witnessed later historic scenes. When Charles IV betrayed
+his people, the nation chose as their king his son, the miserable
+Ferdinand VII, who ungratefully repaid their loyalty. Poor Spain, she
+has had kings who would have wrecked a less vigorous race. At La Granja,
+in 1832, Ferdinand VII changed his will and made his infant daughter,
+Isabel II, his heir, instead of his brother, Don Carlos, whom he had
+previously acknowledged, thus leaving behind him an inheritance of civil
+war. From the days of Urraca and Isabella the Catholic, women could
+inherit the throne in Spain, just as they can in England. But in the
+18th century under the Bourbon kings, who loved all things French, the
+Salic Law was introduced and continued in force till Ferdinand VII
+changed it at La Granja. The king had a full right to revert to the
+earlier<a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a> custom, as the Salic Law was an innovation in Spain, and the
+grandson of Ferdinand's daughter, Isabel II, the present young Alfonso
+XIII, is in truth the legitimate king of the Spains. Don Carlos, on
+Ferdinand's death, rose in rebellion, and for seven years a frightful,
+fraticidal struggle ravaged the country. This civil war, stamped out in
+1840, again burst into flames during the disorders of 1872. To-day,
+however, the Carlist faction claims but scattered adherents, chiefly in
+the northern provinces. The peaceful termination of these troubles has
+been solidified by that noble and truly wise woman, the present queen
+dowager, María Cristina, whose strength of character and sincerity of
+aim may be said to have safeguarded her son's inheritance during his
+long minority.</p>
+
+<p>Another scene took place at La Granja in the early years of Isabel II'
+reign, while her mother was regent, a far different regent from the
+later Cristina. Though the Constitutional factions had rallied round
+Isabel, as the Absolutists had gathered about Don Carlos, it was only
+through force, inch by inch, that the Spanish Crown yielded to the
+people's demand for a constitutional monarchy. Thus, at La Granja in
+1836, the queen mother was intimidated by the army into affirming again
+the Constitution of 1812.</p>
+
+<p>This last century in Spain has been a period of<a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a> such ceaseless
+insurrection, such rapid, ill-considered changes of ministries, that it
+seems, on hasty survey, to be a hundred years of political chaos.
+Perhaps a slight sketch of the events may help to a better
+understanding, for running through the century, a thread to the
+labyrinth, is the nation's slow, stumbling, but ever forward advance to
+constitutional rule. With each disorderly, seemingly unconnected
+insurrection, a step ahead was taken, so that to-day an absolute
+monarchy is an impossibility in Spain. She may have taken longer than
+many European powers to shake off the incubus of the divine right of
+kings, but on the other hand, she has achieved her comparative
+independence without a king's execution or a terrible, bloody cataclysm.
+There has never been in Spain the bitter separation of nobles and
+people; together they both worked for their freedom, keeping a fraternal
+relationship that is uncommon in history. The Spanish temperament, like
+the English, has an intense loyalty and love of tradition; it finds its
+happiest condition under a monarchy, but the history of the 19th century
+shows it must be a constitutional monarchy; a modern king rules for the
+good of the people since he rules by will of the people.</p>
+
+<p>To give a hasty sketch of political progress. Godoy, Charles IV's
+unscrupulous minister,<a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a> brought Napoleon's armies into Spain under the
+pretext that they were on their way to conquer Portugal. When some
+seventy thousand French troops were on Spanish soil and the people found
+their king a slave to the so-called visitors, they suddenly awoke to the
+truth, the tocsin of alarm sounded in Madrid, and from one end of the
+land to the other they took up arms. Then followed the Guerra de la
+Independenzia, 1808 to 1814, that proved to Europe Spain was alive and
+vigorous, again in the arena of the world's struggle. During the war a
+representative body met at Cadiz, thus renewing the Cortes that had
+flourished before the Hapsburg dynasty stamped it out. At Cadiz, in an
+outburst of patriotism, the Constitution of 1812 was drawn up: for the
+invader, war to the knife; Ferdinand VII to be their lawful king; abuses
+such as the Inquisition abolished; the sovereignty of the people upheld;
+"<i>religión y rey, patria é independencia</i>," truly Spanish watchwords.</p>
+
+<p>When in 1814 Napoleon was forced to accept Ferdinand VII as King of
+Spain, that ungrateful king came back to his loyal people, and his first
+act was to restore the absolute monarchy of his ancestors, to declare
+the Constitution of 1812 null and void, to try to galvanize the
+Inquisition into life. It was not long before the disorders of his
+government led some of the colonies<a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a> in America to declare their
+independence, and finally Spain too uprose. The Riego insurrection of
+1820, proclaiming again the Constitution of 1812, was the first of the
+frequent <i>pronunciamientos</i> (the uprising of the army against absolute
+monarchy) that continued down to 1870. Louis Philippe declared this
+insubordination of the army a menace to other thrones of Europe, and
+took this pretext to send French troops into Spain to uphold Ferdinand's
+absolutism: the Trocadero defense was during this second invasion of the
+French.</p>
+
+<p>Always ceaselessly agitating, despite temporary defeat, went on the
+people's struggle for a constitution. While Ferdinand VII lived there
+was little hope for modern ideas, but when he died, the
+Constitutionalists espoused the cause of his infant daughter, Isabel II.
+All advance was retarded by the Carlist War that followed Isabel's
+accession, during which war occurred what a Spanish quaker has called
+the "<i>pecado de sangre</i>," the brutal massacre of the monks and
+destruction of such unrivaled centers of art as Poblet in Catalonia,
+more a political act than a religious, as the monks were Carlists. This
+war so confused and embittered the issues at stake that it is difficult
+to follow with consistency the political parties. The government was
+consistent only in its instability, having now a Queen<a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a> Regent, now an
+Espartero, banishments, executions, riots, barricades, revolts,&mdash;it
+seemed indeed as if Spain were sown with Cadmus teeth.</p>
+
+<p>Still through the darkness one can follow a light. The Constitution of
+1837 asserted boldly the sovereignty of the people. Though the
+Constitution of the forties was lenient to absolute power, the Cortes
+was now included in the government, a marked advance since Ferdinand
+VII's day. The Constitution of the fifties was a further advance toward
+national independence. In the midst of political rancors, the war with
+Africa, 1860, came as a noble interval when feuds were put aside and all
+fought together against a common enemy. As in the old days, poets and
+novelists enrolled themselves in the army, and the young grandees served
+as common soldiers, in fidelity to the vow of their ancestors, knights
+of Santiago, of Calatrava, and of Alcántara, that when Spain was
+threatened by the Saracen, their descendants would serve <i>in the ranks,
+on foot, and in person</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Then, this brilliant war over, the old strifes returned in force, Prim,
+O'Donnell,<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> and twenty<a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a> minor parties. Queen Isabel II was banished
+in 1868, and the first interregnum since Spain was a monarchy occurred.
+Then followed the short-lived rule of Amadeus I, Duke of Aosta and son
+of Victor Emmanuel, called by invitation to rule in Spain. His chief
+upholder, Prim, was assassinated before Amadeus reached Madrid, and the
+new king found himself in so equivocal a position, that after two
+unhappy years he resigned gladly. Under the influence of Castelar, most
+brilliant of orators and a man who sincerely loved his country, a
+Republic of two years' duration followed. Spain was never intended for a
+republic; discontent continued general, the ministry changed eight times
+in this short period, and at length all warring factions agreed that the
+only hope for stable government lay in the restoration of Spain's lawful
+king, Isabel II's eldest son.</p>
+
+<p>Isabel in Paris abdicated in his favor, and in 1875 Alfonso XII returned
+to his native land. He came not in the same spirit as had Ferdinand VII
+in 1814. The sixty years of disorders had led to a solid result, Alfonso
+XII came back as a constitutional king. The Constitution of 1876 was a
+reconciliation of monarchical principles and<a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a> those of a democracy. The
+new king died before he had reached the age of thirty, and his son
+Alfonso XIII, born after his father's death, was represented by his
+mother till his majority. To María Cristina of Austria, Spain owes an
+unending debt of gratitude. Under her wise rule the country had some
+years of the peace she so needed; and even what is termed disaster, the
+recent loss of colonies, is a blessing in disguise. Spain to-day needs
+all her strength for herself.</p>
+
+<p>As the abuses of centuries are not reformed in a year and as nothing on
+earth can be perfect, there is much to be desired still in Spain's
+political life. Her constitution is an excellent one in theory, but in
+practice it is crippled by the dishonest elections. Political power is
+left in the hands of an unscrupulous minority who work for personal, not
+national aggrandizement, and the distrust such elections have engendered
+keeps the better element of the people aloof from the government. Only
+fifteen per cent of the Spanish people vote. The king has, like
+England's ruler, the right of absolute veto. If Spain is now so blessed
+as to have for her king a worthy descendant of Isabella the Catholic,
+the remedy for the political dishonesty may be close at hand. Young
+Alfonso XIII has an intelligence of the first order; he has been trained
+under a high-minded and truly Christian woman; he has married the<a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a>
+daughter of a race that well understands constitutional rule; personally
+he is loved by his people with an affection not hard to understand, for
+despite his thin, plain face, the young king is eminently distinguished
+and <i>simpático</i>. Often in Seville, seeing him galloping back from polo,
+or returning from a week's hunt in the wilds of the sierras, our intense
+hopes went out to him. In his hands, it is slight exaggeration to say,
+lies Spain's future. If Alfonso XIII gives his intelligence and
+life-blood to his people, who can foresee to what heights this strong,
+uncontaminated race may climb? The past century's outburst in literature
+and art hint the possibility of a second <i>siglo de oro</i>.</p>
+
+<p>La Granja has led me far afield. It does not stand for Spain's best, an
+artificial, foreign creation where passed hours of the nation's
+abasement. Segovia is the real Spain. Descend from the Alcázar to the
+river, cross the bridge, mount to the ten-sided chapel of the Knights
+Templars, and sitting on the steps of the granite cross, look back on
+the stretching city. There lies the Spain whose fiber is capable of
+regeneration: generous, patient, indomitable, faulty, but with manly
+faults, untouched by taint of luxury and greed, with blood in her veins,
+and ideals in her soul. Wander down by the Eresma past the hermitage,
+and encircle the town by the footpath beside the<a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a> tree-hidden Clamores.
+High above, its yellow stones gleaming in the sunset light, rises the
+fortress which stood firm for Isabella in her critical hour, and from
+whence she started in state to claim her heritage. Will the young king
+of Spain to-day show the world that Isabella's heritage is worth the
+claiming?<a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a></p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_segovia_182_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_segovia_182_sml.jpg" width="550" height="353" alt="The Alcázar of Segovia" title="The Alcázar of Segovia" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">The Alcázar of Segovia</span>
+</p>
+
+<h2><a name="SAINT_TERESA_AND_AVILA" id="SAINT_TERESA_AND_AVILA"></a>SAINT TERESA AND AVILA</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"All great artists are mystics, for they do but body forth what
+they have intuitively discerned: all philosophers as far as they
+are truly original are mystics, because their greatest thoughts are
+not the result of laborious efforts but have been apprehended by
+the lightening flash of genius, and because their essential theme
+is connected with the one feeling, only to be mystically
+apprehended, the relation of the individual to the Absolute. Every
+great religion has originated in mysticism and by mysticism it
+lives, for mysticism is what John Wesley called 'heart religion.'
+When this dies out of any creed, that creed inevitably falls into
+mere formalism."</p>
+
+<p class="r">W. S. L<small>ILLY</small>.</p></div>
+
+<p class="nind">M<small>YSTICISM</small> is St. Teresa's highest glory. To write of her with admiration
+and even enthusiasm, leaving untouched this acme of her genius, as
+certain of her biographers have done, is to describe the shape, the hue,
+the grace of a rose and omit to tell of its scent. On all sides her
+character was notable; in strength of will, in that most uncommon of
+qualities, common sense,<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> in vigorous administration, in sincerity of
+purpose. Carmelite nun and restorer of the strictest order of
+Carmelites, she was not in the least a withered ascetic<a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a> but a well-bred
+Castilian lady of winning manners and pleasing appearance, who in
+courtesy, dignity, and simplicity, embodied in herself the best of
+Castile. From every word she wrote breathes a generous character. Her
+robust virility of mind, her complete absence of sophistry or of
+self-consciousness, help us to understand the love she roused among her
+nuns, and the respect she gained from the foremost men of her time.</p>
+
+<p>"We cannot stir ourselves to great things unless our thoughts are high,"
+wrote this soul of heroism. Yet, with all her supremacy of intellect,
+Teresa was so delicately witty, so gay&mdash;peals of laughter were often
+heard in her cloisters&mdash;so shrewd, that never in her was found the least
+trace of the pretentious. Anecdotes are told of her practical good
+sense. The first night of the foundation in Salamanca, in the solitary
+garret when the frightened little nun, her companion, exclaimed, "I was
+thinking, dear Mother, what would become of you, if I were to die,"
+"Pish," said Teresa, who disliked the exalté, "it will be time to think
+of that when it happens. Let us go to sleep." Then her vehement protest
+to those who thought prayer alone sufficient for salvation: "No,
+sisters, no: our Lord desires works!" Her swift sweeping aside of the
+aristocratic spirit in her convents; let there be no talk of
+precedence,<a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a> "which is nothing more than to dispute whether the earth be
+good for bricks or for mortar. O my God, what an insignificant subject!"
+"I have always been friendly with learned men," she wrote, and pleasant
+milestones in her burdened life are her interviews with some remarkable
+minds of the time. "Knowledge and learning are very necessary for
+everything, alas!"&mdash;This last exclamation made in naïve apology that she
+could only translate in halting language her inner life of the spirit,
+she whose witchery of style makes her read to-day even by the scoffer.</p>
+
+<p>The human personality of the saint lives in her writing, where is found
+the fragrance of her own special soul. "I cannot see anyone who pleases
+me but I must instantly desire that he might give himself entirely to
+God, and I wish it so ardently that sometimes I can hardly contain
+myself." "Humility alone is that which does everything, when you
+comprehend in a flash to the depth of your being, you are a mere nothing
+and that God is all." "Oh, Lord of my soul! Oh my true Lord, how
+wonderful is Thy greatness! Yet here we live, like so many silly swains,
+imagining we have attained some knowledge of Thee; and yet it is indeed
+as nothing, for even in ourselves there are great secrets which we do
+not understand." "Do you know what it is to be truly spiritual?<a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a> It is
+to be the slaves of God; those who are signed with His mark which is
+that of the Cross." And that supreme cry of the saints in all ages:
+"<i>¡Señor! ¡O morir ó padecer!</i> My God! either to suffer or to die!"</p>
+
+<p>It is inevitable sacrilege for anyone in this generation, which has
+traveled so far from the days of faith, to touch on Teresa's raptures
+and locutions, for in sheer ignorance we profane what is holy. The saint
+herself foresaw our difficulty. "I know that whoever shall have arrived
+at these raptures will understand me well; but he who has had no
+experience therein, will consider what I say to be foolish.... However
+much I desire to speak clearly concerning what relates to prayer, it
+will be obscure for him who has no experience therein.... Some may say
+these things seem impossible, and that it is good not to scandalize the
+weak.... I consider it certain that whoever shall receive any harm by
+believing it possible for God in this land of exile to bestow such
+favors, stands in great need of humility; such a person keeps the gate
+shut against receiving any favors himself." So unparalleled was her life
+of ecstasy that at first the saint doubted if it were heaven sent or
+not; she submitted herself humbly to the tests of that inquisition age
+till at length her own good judgment told her that this "joy surpassing
+all the joys of the world, all its delights, all<a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a> its pleasures," was
+from God, because of its after-effects, an added peace, a deeper
+humility, a more ardent and practical love of souls. But her clear brain
+and transcendent honesty made her see the risk for weaker minds: "The
+highest perfection," she warns, "does not consist in raptures nor in
+visions, nor in the gift of prophecy, but in making our will so
+conformable with the will of God that we shall receive what is bitter as
+joyfully as what is sweet and pleasant."</p>
+
+<p>Mysticism skirts indeed perilous precipices, but St. Teresa walked the
+narrow path securely, her eyes uplifted, oblivious of the dangers below.
+I dare not touch on her marvelous life of the spirit.<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> All I can say
+is, go to her own works, read them in their pure, native Castilian, do
+not be content with the few extreme quotations given perhaps by those
+who would discredit her; read her in various moods, as you do the
+"Imitation," and I doubt if she fails to convince you that there are<a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a>
+more things in heaven and earth than are dreamed of in our negative
+philosophy, that a few rare souls have risen to supreme heights because
+they were really humble and really holy, that religion has preserved
+from total loss the subtlest faculty of man, and faith stood up bravely
+through centuries of intellectual contempt to battle for it. Recently I
+came across a review of some works on psychology by that able young
+English novelist, Robert Hugh Benson; it ended with these suggestive
+words:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"In Psychology, science and religion are very near to one another,
+for its subject is nothing else than the soul of man. Science in
+her winding explorations has been for centuries drawing nearer to
+this center of the maze: she has traversed physical nature, the
+direct work of God, and philosophy, the direct product of man....
+Is it too much to hope that when science has advanced yet a few
+steps more she may have come to Faith with the human soul newly
+discovered in her hands: 'Here is a precious and holy thing that I
+have found in man, a thing which for years I have denied or
+questioned. Now I hand it over to the proper authority. It has
+powers of which I know little or nothing, strange intuitions into
+the unseen, faculties for communication which do not find their
+adequate object in this world ... a force of habit which is
+meaningless if it ends with time; an affinity with some element
+that cannot rise from matter as its origin. Take it from my hands
+for you alone understand its needs and capacities. Enliven it with
+the atmosphere it must have<a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a> for its proper development, feed it,
+cleanse it, heal its hurts, train it to use and control its own
+powers, and prepare it for Eternity.'"</p></div>
+
+<p>Let the reader before he opens the "Way of Perfection" know the saint's
+"Life"<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> which she wrote, by the advice of her superior, when
+forty-six years of age; it is an autobiography worthy to rank with
+Augustine's "Confessions." Read also the few hundred racy letters
+written after the press of the day while the convent slept. Chief of
+all, let the reader, if he is practical, know that inimitable book of
+her fifty-eighth year, the "Foundations," with its Cervantes-like
+pictures of the people and customs of the time. Perhaps only those who
+have traveled on Spanish country-roads, those tracts of mud or rocks,
+can appreciate the hardships endured by this aged woman as she went from
+city to city to found her houses; in heavy snows to Salamanca; to
+Seville in a covered cart turned to purgatory by the direct rays of the
+Andalusian sun, with fever and only hot water to drink; rivers
+overflowed by heavy rains; boats upset in the rivers. The last
+foundation was at Burgos, barely four months before her death, the
+jolting cart in which she rode from<a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a> Palencia having to be pulled out of
+the ruts and she entered the coldest city in the Peninsula on a raw
+January day in a heavy rain, there to find further troubles.</p>
+
+<p>Familiar with Teresa's physical endurance, her cool-headed business
+ability, her candid hatred of shams and pretence, then approach her
+loftier self and read the "Camino de Perfección." The treatise on prayer
+in the "Life," (Chap. XI to XXII) prepares one for this second book,
+which she wrote for her sisters and daughters of "St. Joseph's" in
+Avila, "those pure and holy souls whose only care was to serve and
+praise Our Lord, so disengaged from the things of the world, solitude is
+their delight." Through the "Way of Perfection" runs her beautiful
+exposition of the Pater Noster, with digressions to right and left as
+her thoughts arose. She tells of the intangible land of worship in
+magic-laden words that draw the cold heart to the far realm of
+contemplation wherein lay the source of her strength. The "Camino" leads
+one to her last book, the "Interior Castle," a glorious pæan to God, a
+courageous exploring of the untrodden realms of the soul that is truly
+one of the triumphs of the spirit, and when we consider it was written
+by a woman of sixty-two, worn out with labors and penance, living in a
+poor little convent, it is an incredible feat of genius. In all
+literature is<a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a> found nothing loftier nor more ethereal: "Oh, 'tis not
+Spanish but 'tis Heaven she speaks!"</p>
+
+<p>Teresa belonged to the race of the true mystics because she was a great
+saint. It has been said that sainthood, the divine hunger of the soul to
+do or to suffer <i>pro causa Dei</i> is as difficult to define to the
+imagination as genius. The materialist may scoff at it, but it remains a
+primitive part of human nature against which argument beats itself in
+vain. Its form may change with the times, the Eastern anchorite and the
+mediæval ascetic may give way to the administrative bishop needed in his
+age; to a knightly paladin such as that "Raleigh among the Saints" who
+led his Free Lances to the fight for the salvation of souls; to a
+large-hearted philanthropist like Vincent de Paul, with his unresting
+Sisters of Charity; to a scholar of the schools, a Newman; to the
+reformer in our ugly modern cities; under varying vestures the spirit is
+the same. In the compelling power of her saints lies the force of the
+Church; to the saints of the Catholic Reformation, to Philip Neri,
+Charles Borromeo, Francis Borgia, Francis de Sales, Francis Xavier,
+Ignatius Loyola, the Church owes her rehabilitation. These great souls
+rose in every land to purify abuses, to drive the money changers from
+the temple: they were the leaven in the hundred measures of meal.
+Macaulay noted the fact that<a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a> since the middle of the sixteenth century
+Protestantism has not gained one inch of ground, and this is due to
+these saints of the Catholic Reformation; for deep in man's heart lies a
+reverence for simple goodness that overrides all disputes, and when such
+saints arose in the church that was called a sink of iniquity, men
+paused; those who had passed from her ranks did not return, but none
+after followed them. Had Luther been gifted with more of this personal
+sainthood, the fatal division that bequeathed centuries of hate and
+warfare might have been avoided, and the simpler method of example, of
+holiness of life, have sufficed for reforming Renaissance Rome
+intoxicated with the revival of pagan culture. Such regrets are futile,
+a mere weighing the weight of the fire, a measuring the blast of the
+wind; and they are ungrateful, too, since the spirit of that troubled
+time roused among other great souls, a Teresa de Cepeda y Ahumada.</p>
+
+<p>The writings of this remarkable woman have the same allurements for us
+to-day as when they flowed almost unconsciously from her pen, for
+besides her mysticism and her sainthood, she was a poet, of the race of
+those whose thoughts make rich the blood of the world. Her little nuns
+tell that when she wrote her hand moved so rapidly, it seemed hardly
+possible it could form human words, while in her face was an expression
+of<a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a> exaltation. "She ranks as a miracle of genius, as perhaps the
+greatest woman who ever handled pen, the single one of all her sex who
+stands beside the world's most perfect masters," is the testimony of the
+ablest English critic of Spanish literature. She wrote with her eye
+direct on her soul's experience, with the glorious courage to give the
+naked truth regardless of consequences, and she will be read as long as
+sincerity of soul-expression is the poet's best gift and while the
+conflict of faith and unbelief remains the highest of human themes.</p>
+
+<p>Mystic, saint, and poet, she can claim yet another title, that of
+philosopher. By the road of self-study, she reached that sublime height
+of metaphysics, the intellectual vision of the Absolute. The further
+Psychology advances, the more wonderful is found her knowledge of the
+soul and its moods and powers. "The highest, most generous philosophy
+that ever man imagined," wrote the scholar, Luis de León. "Sainte Térèse
+a exploré plus à fond que tout autre les régions inconnues de l'âme, ...
+elle explique savamment, clairement, le mécanisme de l'âme évoluant dès
+que Dieu la touche ... une sainte qui a vérifié sur elle-même les phases
+sur-naturelles qu'elle a décrites, une femme dont la lucidité fut plus
+qu'humaine" is the appreciation of Huysmans. Not only orthodox believers
+yield her<a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a> this preëminence: Leibnitz read and deeply admired her; a
+recent French critic of the skeptic school compares her to Descartes.
+Hyperbole is inevitable in speaking of this "sweet incendiary," and all
+who know her books feel the same enthusiasm. "A woman for angelical
+height of speculation, for masculine courage of performance, more than a
+woman," wrote the old English poet, Richard Crashaw, whose "Flaming
+Heart" is touched with her own potency:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Oh thou undaunted daughter of desires!<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">By all thy dower of lights and fires;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">By all the eagle in thee, all the dove;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And by thy lives and deaths of love,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">By thy large draughts of intellectual day;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And by thy thirsts of love more large than they;...<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">By all the Heav'n thou hast in Him,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">(Fair sister of the seraphim!)<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">By all of Him we have in thee;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Leave nothing of myself in me,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Let me so read thy life that I<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Unto all life of mine may die."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Spain may claim the glory of having appreciated this her greatest
+daughter. She is a colonel of artillery; she is a doctor in Salamanca;
+the manuscript of her "Life" was placed in the Escorial and the King
+carried the key; at country inns they tell of the night she rested
+there, as if it had been yesterday; her devotees to-day sign<a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a> their
+letters "<i>su amigo teresiano</i>." It was reserved for later generations of
+different race to explain what they could not understand by calling it
+hysteria and epilepsy. Richard Ford's account of the saint is so wide of
+the original that Froude, no lover of Catholic Spain, says it is not
+even a caricature; the article on her in the Encyclopedia Brittanica is
+a disgrace to intellectual thought.</p>
+
+<p>Spain stands indifferent to such criticism. She knows herself secure in
+her mystics who seem to have left the race an intuitive understanding of
+the life of the soul. This inherited intuition has, of course, its
+dangers, for all intelligences are not those of a Teresa de Jesús. It
+needs indeed "large draughts of intellectual day" to be a mystic.
+Valdés' novel, "Marta y María" shows this mistaken insisting in the
+nineteenth century on conditions of life suitable to the sixteenth. But
+because smaller minds have imitated her disastrously, their
+neo-mysticism need not be considered a serious menace in modern Spain,
+since following a saint, even haltingly, is not by any means an easy
+life to choose.</p>
+
+<p>St. Teresa and Avila: her name evokes that of her native city as
+instantly as St. Francis' that of Assisi; every stone in Avila breathes
+of the heroic woman. Our first visit was to the small plaza under the
+city walls, where the <i>casa solar</i> of the<a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a> Cepeda family stood. Teresa
+came of the untitled gentry of Castile, <i>de sangre muy limpia</i>, and a
+Spaniard's pride in his blood, untouched by Moorish taint, by crime, or
+illegitimacy, is as strong to-day as then: perhaps it is this pride, in
+peasant as well as noble, that makes the democratic relation of the
+classes in the Peninsula.</p>
+
+<p>At right angles to the mediocre church built in commemoration, on the
+site of the Cepeda house, stands the mansion of the Duque de la Roca,
+which gives a good idea of the solid escutcheoned homes of the hidalgo.
+Many such dignified houses are scattered over Avila, making a stroll in
+her streets full of the charm of surprise; their chief adornments are
+the doorways, truly splendid old portals with coping stones sometimes
+nine feet deep radiating round the entrance. In one of these solid
+Romanesque houses Teresa was born in 1515. Through a city gate before
+her house, I looked out on just the same scene she had known during the
+first eighteen years of her life; the rocky plain, through which the
+river wound, stretched to a spur of the Guadarrama mountains, capped
+already with the winter's snow. Leaving the venerable little plaza, I
+descended the steep street that led to the river bridge, in the spirit
+of pilgrimage still, for the child Teresa and a small brother wandered
+here alone one day on their way to seek martyrdom<a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a> among the infidels.
+Met by an uncle beyond the bridge, the runaways were brought home. Truly
+in the saint's life, the child was father to the man, her days bound
+each to each in natural piety, despite that short period which her too
+tender conscience ever regretted when, as a pretty girl, love of fine
+clothes and flattery allured her. It is told of these remarkable
+children, that, hearing the word "Forever," they clasped their little
+hands and gazed wide-eyed in each other's faces, overcome by its
+stupendous meaning.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_roca_196_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_roca_196_sml.jpg" width="391" height="550" alt="House of the Duque de la Roca, Avila" title="House of the Duque de la Roca, Avila" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">House of the Duque de la Roca, Avila</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>When Teresa was eighteen she went to visit a married sister who lived at
+a distance, and on her return stopped to see an uncle who had just taken
+the resolution of entering a monastery. The religious feeling in her
+partly awoke, and she too desired the life of the cloister, but her
+parents not finding strength to part with her, one morning she and a
+brother slipped away from home, and after he had conducted her to the
+Carmelite Convent of the Incarnation outside the walls, he went on
+himself to beg admittance at the Dominican Convent of St. Thomas. For
+over twenty-five years Teresa lived in the <i>Encarnación</i>: during the
+first twenty years she was miserable in bodily health and as miserable
+in spirit, for the saint had not yet found her vocation, and the laxity
+of the rule allowed the nuns to see much of the world, to receive
+visitors and hear<a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a> the gossip of the town. "I was tossed about in a
+wretched condition, for if I had small content in the world, in God I
+had no pleasure. At prayer time I watched for the clock to strike the
+end of the hour." Strange words for this future great genius of prayer!
+Her conversion, the change of heart that sooner or later, disregarded or
+welcomed, comes to all who live with any depth, came to Teresa as she
+was approaching her fortieth year. She had been roused to more serious
+thoughts by her father's death, and one day in the oratory she suddenly
+seemed to realize in a figure of her crucified Saviour the unspeakable
+wonder of his sacrifice:</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<span class="i0">"Thy hands to give Thou can'st not lift.<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Yet will Thy hand still giving be,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">It gives, but O, itself's the gift,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">It gives tho' bound, tho' bound 'tis free."<br /></span>
+<span class="i6">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">"Love touch't her heart, and lo! it beats<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">High, and burns with such brave heats<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Such thirst to die, as dares drink up<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">A thousand cold deaths in one cup."<br /></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>With the inflowing of true religion, Teresa longed for a stricter life,
+for the original rule of Mount Carmel as conferred by Innocent IV in
+1248. She was misunderstood by those around her, her locutions and
+visions doubted; as a natural result of the false <i>beata</i> of that day,
+she was considered<a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a> a woman who for the sake of notoriety pretended to
+sainthood. Only after years of semi-persecution did the ring of truth
+and the ethical fervor of Teresa's words convince the learned men who
+examined her, and she was allowed to leave the <i>Encarnación</i> to found
+the convent of St. Joseph, her first house of the barefoot or
+<i>descalzos</i> Carmelites.</p>
+
+<p>Associated so closely as is the <i>Encarnación</i> with the saint, it is with
+emotion one looks down from the city on the pleasant oasis it makes in
+the rocky plain. Teresa had there the memorable interviews with St.
+Francis Borgia, just returned from a visit to his friend and former
+lord, Charles V at Yuste; with the mystic poet, St. John of the Cross
+(whom Coventry Patmore has followed in his "Unknown Eros"); with St.
+Peter of Alcántara, who too held that "the cornerstone and chief
+foundation of all is humility." These devout men confirmed Teresa in her
+belief in the divine origin of her prayer: "There is no pleasure or
+comfort which can be equal to meeting with another person to whom God
+has given some beginnings of the same dispositions," she wrote,
+harrassed by the petty suspicions around her.</p>
+
+<p>A tenderer association than the <i>Encarnación</i> is that of <i>San José</i>, her
+first foundation. The convent lies outside the Puerta del Alcázar, Gate
+of the Castle, past the plaza where the townspeople<a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a> stroll under the
+arcades, and peasant women sell fragrant celery from the big
+saddle-baskets they lift from their donkeys' backs to the pavement. The
+visitor is shown treasured relics by the nuns, the quaint musical
+instrument their mother played on, her drinking jug, and wooden pillow,
+a letter in her strong, clear hand-writing. During the later strenuous
+years of her life the saint ever looked back lovingly here. "I lived for
+five years in the monastery of St. Joseph at Avila, and those now seem
+to me to be the most peaceful part of my life, the want of which repose
+my soul often feels." From the age of fifty-two to her death at
+sixty-six (1582) this wonderful woman traveled over Spain, founding her
+reformed order, sixteen convents for women and fourteen monasteries for
+men. While on a visit of inspection at Alba de Tormes the end came; with
+her favorite words of the Psalmist, "A contrite and humbled heart, O
+God, Thou wilt not despise," she passed, as she had written in her "Way
+of Perfection," "not to a strange country, but to her native land."</p>
+
+<p>Avila is worthy of her saint, Avila of the Knights, Avila the Loyal, the
+King's Avila. It is one of the most perfect examples existing of the
+fortified towns of chivalry. Built on an eminence, it is completely
+encircled by grand old walls, forty feet high, whose sameness is broken
+by some<a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a> eighty-six towers; two of these here and there are placed close
+together and arched, so as to make a gateway. Below the town on every
+side stretches a plain, so strewn with shattered rocks that it is easy
+to picture it the scene of some battle of giants. The Cathedral may be
+called part of the city ramparts, since its apse forms one of the eighty
+encircling towers; the walls are so thick that the radiating chapels
+round the chancel are not seen in the exterior view, being quite lost in
+the depth of stone and mortar. Our inn, the <i>Fonda Ingles</i>, looked out
+on the square before the Cathedral, a windy spot, where the gusts from
+the mountains seized and tossed the men's long capes. Like Burgos and
+Salamanca, Avila is on the truncated mountain of central Spain, and one
+is reminded of its 3,500 feet of altitude by the bitter cold. Nothing
+can pierce so sharply as the wind of the Castile plains. Each day we
+crossed the gusty plaza to the church and so grew to know it with the
+heart-affection Spanish cathedrals win. The large windows have been
+walled up to darken the interior, for Spain, the hardy, the
+all-enduring, ignores the frosts of eight months of the year to provide
+against the summer heats. The details of Avila Cathedral are truly
+lovely; a double-aisled ambulatory round the warm space of the High
+Altar, a <i>retablo</i> of ancient pictures, isolated marble shrines between<a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a>
+chancel and choir near which kneel groups of black-veiled worshipers,
+gleaming brass <i>rejas</i>, a carved <i>coro</i> where the canons chant and where
+are massive illuminated hymnals on the lectern, all make up one's ideal
+of a house of God. Do not miss the sacristy, one's ideal too of what a
+sacristy should be, with antique silver wrought by the De Arfe family,
+with painted and gilded cabinets, and alabaster altars cut like ivory.</p>
+
+<p>St. Teresa's city is small: one can encircle its walls several times in
+a constitutional, yet every walk discovers new treasures. We were
+constantly stumbling on yet other of the imposing portals that exist in
+their perfection only here and at Segovia, and in the sleepy squares or
+courtyards we found some of the roughly-hewn stone animals, the
+primitive god of Druid days, used later by the Romans as milestones.
+From these comes another title for Avila, <i>Cantos y Santos</i>. An easy
+afternoon walk can be taken to Son Soles, a hermitage on the lower slope
+of the mountains, whither the saint must have gone in the summer
+evenings when the sunset glorified the plain and hills, for the customs
+of Avila to-day are those of Avila in the sixteenth century. A path led
+us across the aromatic fields, and country men in wide-brimmed velvet
+hats gazed at us with clear, fearless eyes, grave yet courteous, like
+true Castilians. In the meadows we met a gentleman<a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a> of the town pacing
+slowly, book in hand; one would have time in the home of the mystic for
+such fruitful hours of pause, such sessions of sweet silent thought. On
+the way to Son Soles, just on the outskirts of the town, stands Santo
+Tomás, the Dominican monastery that long supplied missionaries to the
+Philippines. Before the High Altar is a white marble mausoleum of
+Isabella's period, worthy to rank with that of her parents at
+Miraflores,&mdash;the truly touching tomb of her only son. He lies with calm
+upturned face, a crown on his thick locks, his gauntlets thrown beside
+him. The royal prince was educated with ten young nobles in a former
+palace near this church. Generous, handsome, a scholar and musician,
+with the fair future stretching before him of the first king to rule the
+<i>Españas</i> rich and united, he died suddenly at Salamanca in 1497,
+turning all the conquests, all the discoveries of his parents' reign to
+dust and ashes. The Queen bowed her head in submission, saying "The Lord
+giveth and the Lord taketh away, Blessed be his name": but it is told
+that she often came to sit in her special stall of the raised choir
+here, to gaze with broken heart on the white tomb of her son. Had he
+lived would Spain's evil day have been averted? One can almost believe
+so; for tyrannic government came in with the Austrian, who ruled here
+because of Don Juan's death.<a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a> Charles V, Isabella's grandson, was not a
+Spaniard; he could little understand the system of individual city
+rights that prevailed in the country he came to govern. Spain can boast
+she was one of the earliest of European nations to teach the municipal
+doctrine that the state has freedom if the town is free. We too
+completely forget that it was nearly a century before the celebrated
+Leicester Parliament that Burgos in 1169 had popular representation.
+When the Austrian arrived, with his autocratic idea that all power
+should be concentrated, the Castilian cities rose in the Comuneros
+rebellion, but they were ruthlessly put down and for three hundred years
+the land's vigor and wealth were exploited for the benefit of one
+family. I am sure that as she sat pondering in the choir stall of Santo
+Tomás Isabella foresaw what a tragic loss to her cherished land was the
+death of her only son. Avila can link the names of Isabella la Católica
+and Teresa de Jesús, the two most incomparable women in whom the sex has
+culminated, both born on the bleak invigorating steppes of Castile, in
+the same province, within the same hundred years, both making an
+indelible impression on their race, both leaving a deathless heritage of
+aspiration and onspurring pride. Is there any wonder that a people who
+can claim two such heroines look at one with fearless eyes?<a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a></p>
+
+<p>Avila is rich in tombs. There is a second lovely one in Santo Tomás,
+that of Prince John's attendants, and down by the river bridge, the
+picturesque chapel of San Segundo holds a most beautiful work by Spain's
+best sculptor, Berruguete. The kneeling bishop has so gentle an
+expression that it is hard to believe he could hurl a Moslem chief from
+the city walls above this hermitage. In the Cathedral, behind the High
+Altar, is another Berruguete tomb, Bishop Tostado, whose industry has
+passed into a proverb; he is here represented with speaking, alert
+expression, leaning forward, this tireless pen suspended in his hand.</p>
+
+<p>The tomb of St. Teresa is not found in her native city, for she was
+buried where she died, at Alba de Tormes, some miles from Salamanca. Not
+long after her death Avila stole the saint's body&mdash;strange to our modern
+notions are those old disputes over relics&mdash;but through the influence of
+the Duke of Alva it was restored to his town.</p>
+
+<p>Admiration for St. Teresa tempted me to Alba de Tormes, but to those who
+would go thither I must say, resist the temptation. Unfortunately, the
+spirit of religiosity, which is to religion what sentimentality is to
+sentiment, has taken possession of her burial place. If you do go to
+Alba, however, make it a day's excursion from Salamanca.<a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a> The evening
+was over before we reached the town, and we drove in darkness from the
+station, bumping over the ruts of an awful road. Railway and villages
+seem often at enmity in Spain; though we had passed directly by the
+gleaming lights of Alba, we ran on some miles further before stopping in
+its station, hence the necessity of a drive of several kilometers back
+to the town. The inn was most primitive, being merely the poor house of
+a country woman, our waiter at table her ten-year old son dressed in
+corduroys. A friendly pig met us in the front hall, coming out from the
+kitchen to look at the unaccustomed foreigners; nevertheless, the house
+was clean and the landlady got out fragrant linen for the bedrooms. On
+our admiring a picture of their great patroness, the kindly woman, after
+dusting it, presented it with the customary polite phrase of "this your
+picture," which was no mere formality, since the next morning when she
+found it secretly restored to its former place, she rushed out to thrust
+it again on us as we were stepping into the diligence. This generous
+landlady, our grave little garçon, the night watchman the <i>sereno</i>,
+calling the hours, a daybreak view from the plaza of the vivid green
+meadows along the river, these are the pleasant reminiscences of Alba.
+Opposite the inn stood the church where the saint is buried, but
+willingly would I blot<a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a> out its memory. An excitable monk was our guide.
+He turned on the electric light with a spectacular air, as if that, not
+the great relic, was the boast of the church; he showed the saint's
+silver tomb, her heart hung round with votive gifts, archbishop's rings
+and diamond coronets, then he led us to the revolving door of the
+convent, whence personal mementoes were passed us for inspection.
+Lowering the lights, he bade us look through a grating at the back of
+the church, and suddenly the electricity was turned on in an interior
+room, and there on the cot lay the image of a Carmelite nun asleep. The
+whole thing was in the worst possible taste, on a level with the bad
+Churrigueresque architecture of the same period. A spot worthy of silent
+pilgrimage, where one of God's greatest saints breathed her last prayer,
+"Cor contritum et humiliatum, Deus, non despicies," this solemn cell of
+her death-bed has been turned to a vulgar show. How Teresa's intelligent
+simplicity would sweep aside such ill-judged honors! In silent protest
+at the tawdriness surrounding them, lie the patrons of this Alba
+foundation, Don Francisco Velasquez and his wife Doña Teresa,
+distinguished, superb effigies in stone, <i>hidalgo como el Rey</i>. Doña
+Teresa, in the delightful way of Spanish ladies on tombs, is reading
+tranquilly in her book of devotions.<a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a></p>
+
+<p>With this example before us of the pass to which religious extravagance
+can be carried, it may be time to touch on a tendency in Spain that is a
+distress to the northern Catholic who is less childlike in his inward
+life. Of course, since there is every kind of temperament, there must be
+every kind of taste; perhaps I am too much guided by personal likes or
+dislikes. However, I feel that those who crave the appropriate and
+simple will agree with me that making allowance for an emotional people,
+a coquettish shepherdess under a glass case on a church altar, (such as
+I saw in Cadiz,) is misunderstood religion. One of Spain's wisest sons,
+the philosopher Vives, agitated against the dressing of statues, and the
+Council of Trent later prohibited the bad usage. Why is not their advice
+followed? I do not mean to criticise the little country shrines whose
+inartistic decoration is often most heart-moving; in a remote village
+certain things are touching which elsewhere are displeasing. It should
+be the effort of the Spanish clergy to discourage the extreme devotion
+to special altars and statues. Artificial and roccoco in sentiment and
+expression, it is a menace to religion in the Peninsula. Spain has the
+vital Christian faith, she is unspoiled by the tinsel, beneath the
+symbol is a soul; but, if she insists on clinging to what the modern
+mind finds ugly and insincere, she may<a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a> lose many to whom the inner
+religion of a St. Teresa would appeal. People seldom will see both sides
+justly; to rid themselves of an irritating detail, some will throw away
+the whole. There are not a few whose antipathy to religion has been
+caused by this blind clinging to the non-essential: the novelist Pérez
+Galdós, I should say was such a case. Though his stories prove that he
+has never grasped what interior religion means, has never gone to the
+fountain head and drank of the pure, mystic waters, but has tasted only
+the contaminated streams of the valley, yet it cannot be denied that
+some of the religiosity he depicts is a phase that exists only too
+truly. The evil is the result of ignorance, not of malice. For this
+reason it would die a natural death were the Spanish clergy given a
+wholly rounded education. I do not refer here to the learned canons or
+monastic orders, but to the parochial clergy. Spain watches her neighbor
+France too closely, let her look further afield and she will lose her
+fear that education and skepticism go hand in hand; in England and
+America the priesthood is with the advancing tide, not against it:
+knowledge never yet harmed religion, but ignorance cripples her. Science
+should have no silly terrors for priests whose church is the greatest
+proof of evolution through the ages, advancing relentlessly so that<a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a>
+what is worth retaining of man's increasing knowledge finds its
+inevitable place in her body, but advancing slowly, (impatient abuse
+cannot hurry her magnificent conservatism); a complete organism, a
+living entity ever changing, yet ever the same.<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> We can hardly expect
+the clergy of a land where tradition is a sacred thing, to be in the
+vanguard of modern thought, but they at least should not forget their
+own noted men of learning. Ximenez, Luis de León, Feijóo, Isla, Suárez,
+Balmes,&mdash;the names come crowding&mdash;all of them churchmen, who, the more
+they knew, the deeper grew their faith.</p>
+
+<p>After this vexatious visit to Alba de Tormes, it was with trepidation
+that I came to Avila, there to find Teresa's vigorous, truly-spiritual
+personality<a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a> the living presence of the proud, high-minded little
+Castilian city. And a happy coincidence the night of our arrival gave
+proof that her generous enthusiasm, her unresting love of souls, were
+not things of the past. Having spent the day at the Escorial, at ten in
+the evening we took the express to Avila. In the carriage <i>Reservado
+para Señoras</i>, we found ourselves with three religious of the
+Sacred-Heart; a touch of home for me were their familiar fluted caps,
+buttoned capes, and silver crosses. The few hours of the journey fled
+all too swiftly in delightful talk; like nuns the world over, they were
+gay and happy as children, with the serene youth of the convent life in
+their faces. One of them was so distinguished a woman that it was a
+fascination to look at her.</p>
+
+<p>These fragile nuns were to travel through the cold night&mdash;and a raw
+November gale was blowing over the uplands of Castile&mdash;to take a steamer
+at Bordeaux, for they were pioneers, on their way to found a house in a
+distant part of South America, where education was backward. Three weeks
+of winter sea, then some tropical days on horseback, before they reached
+their desolate new home! Truly the heroic spirit of St. Teresa is alive
+to-day, and fair sisters of the seraphim still walk among us.<a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="EVENING_IN_AVILA" id="EVENING_IN_AVILA"></a>EVENING IN AVILA</h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">Around about the town stand eighty gray stone towers,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">That make a fitter crown, a hardier show than flowers<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">For what is high and brave&mdash;the tawny Castile plain&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">So patient and so grave, incarnate soul of Spain.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">You have made sweet the ways of penury and care<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">With dawn and sunset praise and white still hours of prayer,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Old town of mystic saint! Secure you ask: Does peace,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Or restless seeking plaint come with your wealth's increase?<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">An answering sound of bells across the upland goes,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">To each field-toiler tells a message of repose,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And mounting to the sky's slow-darkening, tranquil dome<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The heart-calm echoes rise of peasants lingering home.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="MADRID_AND_THE_ESCORIAL" id="MADRID_AND_THE_ESCORIAL"></a>MADRID AND THE ESCORIAL</h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"They who wrought wonders by the Nile of old,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Bequeathing their immortal part to us,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Cast their own spirit first into the mould,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And were themselves the rock they fashioned thus."<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">G<small>EORGE</small> S<small>ANTAYANA</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">T<small>HESE</small> two spots, products of men of small idea and nature, are happily
+so close together that they can fall under the same abuse. Coming from
+the north, to stop at the Escorial either from Avila with its grand
+walls of the eighty towers, or from the crag-set castle of Segovia, is
+such an abrupt transition from heroic times to the doctrinaire centuries
+that followed them that it is but too easy to be unfair to Philip II's
+huge pile. A better way is to go out to it from Madrid; then, somewhat
+accustomed to cold commonplace, the Escorial gives less of a jar.</p>
+
+<p>We descended to it from Segovia. Knowing Herrera's lifeless
+architecture&mdash;"a syllogism in stone" it has wittily been called&mdash;on that
+side I did not expect much, but accounts of the setting of the Escorial,
+of its grand solitary position in the mountains, made me hope for some
+kind of<a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a> effect. People see things in such different ways. I could
+discover no grandeur whatever in the position of the rectangular
+ashy-colored building. The lower slopes of the Guadarramas rise behind
+it, but at a little distance, and the town comes between it and the
+sierras. It was not solitary, it was not imposing. At close range, after
+we had walked up the leafy avenue from the station, even the appearance
+of unity was lost, and it seemed nothing but a big block of good town
+houses like many that fill the square between four city streets. Window
+after window, alike inadequately small and unadorned; just like any
+monotonous line of town houses. We stood aghast at the pretentious,
+ineffectual mass which they call the eighth wonder of Spain. For us
+to-day there is little wonder in spending fifty millions in one lifetime
+to put up myriads of doors, stair-cases, and courtyards, to use two
+thousand pounds of iron to make the door-keys; we are accustomed to the
+feat. The pity is that every tourist in Spain comes here, and one in a
+thousand goes to Poblet or León, those other pantheons that are proper
+burial places for sturdy old kings. I am not sure that the Hapsburgs in
+Spain merit anything worthier than an Escorial.</p>
+
+<p>At first we thought it might be the side which we approached that gave
+so poor an effect, so we proceeded to encircle the building; on all
+four<a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a> sides passing by window after window we saw not one inch of stone
+carved worthily, and to our astonishment we found it faced the
+mountains. Fancy a blank, rocky wall, a quarter of a mile away and fancy
+such a stupidity as choosing this to open on, instead of the wide
+horizon of the opposite side. Does this not give the key to the
+Escorial? It and its builder had no imagination. Since we were here we
+had to see it all, so we let ourselves be guided hither and thither,
+through courtyard after courtyard, down one dull corridor after another,
+in and out of rooms where little interested,&mdash;a dreary waste of a place.
+In the picture gallery overlooking the gardens we got our first
+introduction to that eccentric genius, El Greco, at his worst here, with
+sick color and elongated figures; we thought him quite mad.
+Nevertheless, the picture gallery was a respite; it was good to meet
+again Tintoret's rich visions of Venice, the full superb shoulders of
+his women, the gold brown of the robes. Ranged in cases there were also
+some embroidered vestments that were noticeable.</p>
+
+<p>The church of the Escorial is so coldly formal and pretentious that it
+lay like a load on our spirits. There is something frightening in the
+way man unconsciously expresses his own nature in the material work of
+his hand; he may think himself very big, unless he really is he is
+certain<a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a> to betray himself, if he paints or writes or builds. This
+correct, somber church exactly represents the religious ideal of a
+Philip II. Heaven, so close to one under the soul-feeding Romanesque
+vault of Santiago, in Seville or Toledo's Gothic aspiration, is very far
+away under this limited dome; the propriety here is that of a bigot, who
+would see heresy in the soar of Gothic, and backwardness in the bare
+solemnity of Romanesque.</p>
+
+<p>We were shown the usual tourist-sights, the seat in the choir where
+Philip sat when news was brought of the Battle of Lepanto, which broke
+another inroad of the Mohammedan on Europe; also the life-size marble
+crucifix (spoiled by too long an upper lip) which Benvenuto Cellini
+made, and which was carried on men's backs from Barcelona to Madrid.
+Statues of Philip and his father, with the ladies of their households,
+kneel on either side of the altar, rich bronze-gilt work, but hardly in
+character with a church. Then we descended to that acme of dreariness
+and morbid misanthropy, the sunken chamber where are buried the royal
+family of Spain since Charles V; one somber coffin rose above another in
+the dark place. And art can make death so beautiful, art like the tombs
+at Miraflores and Avila! Happy beings to have escaped this dreadful hole
+of burial, we exclaimed. Could only a century separate<a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a> Isabella in her
+Castle of Segovia, or in the white marble peace of her sepulcher at
+Granada, from her descendants' costly ideal of a palace and a mausoleum?
+As we stood shivering with the formality and melancholy of it all, with
+sympathy for the present happy young King and Queen who must lie here
+some day, a little touch of sentiment took away some of the oppression.
+We saw on the tomb of Alfonso XII a fresh wreath of chrysanthemums.
+Then, feeling that any more subterranean darkness was insupportable, we
+hurried up the steep staircase from the Pantheon, through the
+heavy-bound church, and out in the courtyard&mdash;dreary enough,
+too!&mdash;breathed the fresh air with relief.</p>
+
+<p>In the library of the Escorial was the first place where I had seen the
+gilt edges of books, not their leather backs, presented to the reader, a
+rich, strange effect which later in the Seraglio at Stamboul I noticed
+again. We stopped long to examine the portraits that stand between the
+book-cases. Philip II was pale-eyed, anæmic and white-visaged, with
+drooping, hypochondrical corners to his mouth. And I had pictured him
+scowling and black and forceful! The Escorial should have told me that
+not a forceful personality could have built it but rather a stubborn
+ability and dogged patience, a narrow consistency, all in character with
+his pale eyes. The swift degeneration<a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a> of the Hapsburg line is easily to
+be read in these portraits. Charles V (in Spain Charles I), keen of face
+and energetic, has a great-great-grandson, Charles II, last of the line,
+so rickety and idiotic that no caricature of used-up royal blood could
+go further.</p>
+
+<p>Weary of sight-seeing where so little roused the imagination, we
+descended to the gardens, stiffly restrained too, but pleasant to loiter
+in. So close was the monotonous mass of gray stone above us, one did not
+have to look at it, but could gaze out on the wide view toward Madrid.
+Then at sunset we went back to the church for an evening service, that
+hour of prayer, restful and beautiful all over Spain. The Pater Noster
+was recited, a litany was chanted, a meditation was read slowly with
+pauses while the people listened with bowed heads and closed eyes. Then
+followed the primitive, centuries-old Latin hymns, the glory of the
+church, in which is incorporated for all time the piercing piety of the
+Middle Ages. I too closed my eyes to shut out the formal church, and for
+some forgetful moments I could dream that those quavering voices of old
+and young, so simple, so sincere, were in some unspoiled mountain
+village, perhaps in that most soul-satisfying temple of all the world,
+the Lower Church of St. Francis:&mdash;Assisi and the Escorial,&mdash;the human
+mind is capable of wide deviations, from<a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a> the religion of humble love to
+this haughty contortion of it.</p>
+
+<p>The most fatal effect of the Escorial was to fix the capital in Madrid,
+a spot, as Ford observed, that had been passed over in contempt by
+Iberian, Roman, Goth, and Moor. Up to the building of the Escorial the
+choice of a capital had wavered, at times, in Valladolid, in Toledo, or
+in Seville. Philip's mountain palace caused to be the chief city one of
+the worst situated towns in Spain, on a waterless river, with no
+commercial prospects, roasting in summer, swept by icy winds the rest of
+the year. It too, like the Escorial, lacks all soul for the traveler.
+Not a church worth looking at, all of them seventeenth and eighteenth
+century abominations with fat cupids, prancing angels, and posing,
+self-glorifying saints, not a cathedral in the capital of a country
+which has the largest number and most heart-satisfying cathedrals of the
+world.</p>
+
+<p>I daresay if one lived in Madrid and had a full active or social life
+one might like it; there must be some cause for the proverb "From Madrid
+to heaven, and in heaven a peep-hole to look down on Madrid." As a city
+it can never be anything but second-rate; the new residential part near
+the parks is like the good districts of any average town. The famous
+Puerta del Sol is filled at every hour of the day and night with such a<a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a>
+rabble of loafers and vociferating peddlers that it takes courage to
+push one's way through. As the Court was absent we missed seeing the
+brilliant morning hour of guard mounting before the Royal Palace.
+Occasionally some local sight would remind us we still were in Spain,
+the original and untamed. Ladies in mantillas would pass on their way to
+the late Mass at midday, a brougham drawn by handsome mules would go by,
+or, if it were a holiday, a few girls of the people wore embroidered
+shawls. But taken as a whole, for the sightseer Madrid is just a
+weariness of the spirit.</p>
+
+<p>Except, of course, the pictures, and I must add, the Armory. We hurried
+off to the Prado, up the steps past the bust of the vigorous saturnine
+Goya, along the far-stretching hall, with hardly a glance for the white
+monks of Zubaran, or El Greco's strange canvases, till midway, we turned
+to the left into the large hall that holds the Velasquez masterpieces.
+It is a sensation in one's life, this first meeting with Velasquez at
+the height of his powers. The wonderful Doria Pope in Rome, the few
+pictures in London and Vienna whet the appetite for the supreme feast in
+Madrid. It is an unprecedented collection of one master that no glow of
+enthusiasm can exaggerate. Canvas follows canvas, all the work of
+secure, triumphant genius, with brush handling so free that it<a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a> seems
+impossible he painted more than two hundred years ago. Don Carlos stands
+dangling a glove in an absolutely natural moment of nonchalance, Philip
+IV and the pompous Duke of Olivares ride their proud steeds out of
+magnificent skies, the gallant little Don Baltasar Carlos dashes at us
+on his pot-bellied pony, or stands a baby hunter in the Guadarramas.
+Velasquez painted him later, a grave, dignified lad of about fourteen,
+always with a fearless, straight look, and he also painted his piquant
+Bourbon mother, Philip IV's first wife; his second a wooden-faced
+Austrian, mother of the doll-like, big-skirted infantas. Had Don
+Baltasar Carlos lived, surely the race had not ended in a Charles II.</p>
+
+<p>You walk about the Velasquez room bewildered, sorry for the copyists who
+have set up their easels before work that tells so unflinchingly each
+slip of a talent what it is to be a master. Portraits and genre studies;
+the lovely bent neck of the weaving girl, the breathing livingness of
+the Maids of Honor, the displeasing dwarfs,&mdash;each canvas is an achieved
+success.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of the hall hangs what swiftly became my favorite of all
+pictures seen, the "Surrender of Breda," called "Las Lanzas," from the
+soldiers' spears ranged against the sky. It is a canvas about the size
+of the "Night Watch" in Amsterdam. The two armies fill the background<a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a>
+under a sky that is a glorious harmony of cold blue and rose. In the
+foreground the Fleming, Justin of Nassau, advances to surrender the keys
+of Breda to its conqueror, the Marquis Spínola, general of the Spanish
+forces, though by birth a Genoese. Spínola has dismounted, and bends to
+meet his enemy, vanquished now, hence in his knightly creed, his friend.
+With a subtle, delicate shrinking he has placed his hand on his
+opponent's shoulder, and in his face is an expression of such high
+chivalry, of such generous effacement of self, of all that is best in
+man of courtesy and noble-mindedness, that the tears spring to the eyes.
+You return to it again and again and come away refreshed and ennobled.
+Only a man loyal himself to the core could render such an emotion, only
+a technical genius of the first rank could fix so fleeting an instant;
+this truly is thinking in paint, and it places Velasquez side by side
+with Leonardo da Vinci as a master of the intellect. I think it is very
+pleasant to learn that Velasquez knew the General he has immortalized,
+and you feel he must have known, too, the superb Spanish hidalgos who
+stand in the group behind the Marquis. On his first trip to Italy, the
+painter sailed in the same vessel to Genoa with Spínola, and probably
+sketched him then. I like to imagine the meeting of two such spirits of
+chivalry.<a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a></p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_titian_223_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_titian_223_sml.jpg" width="437" height="550" alt="Isabella of Portugal, by Titian. Prado Gallery, Madrid" title="Isabella of Portugal, by Titian. Prado Gallery, Madrid" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">Isabella of Portugal, by Titian. Prado Gallery, Madrid</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Were the Prado only Velasquez and the Spanish artists, it would be
+among the first of galleries, but it is astonishingly rich in Italian
+masters as well. It has the best equestrian portrait in the world,
+Charles V at the Battle of Mühlberg, a picture to be studied long and
+often. The Emperor has risen from illness, he has had to be lifted upon
+his horse, but he has pluckily girded himself to take command. The
+Venetian red of his plumes and scarf is splendid. Titian has another of
+the Emperor, standing with his Irish hound, near it a gem of woman
+portraiture, Charles' lovely wife, Isabella of Portugal. It seems a
+strange irony for such an exquisite creature to have been the mother of
+a Philip II. Philip was fortunate in his daughters, too, demure, formal
+little maidens, who stand with the sedate propriety of Spanish infantas,
+and in his sisters, whose long, aristocratic faces Antonio Moro has left
+us. Charles V sent Moro to England to paint Queen Mary for her young
+bridegroom, and here she sits in her rich crimson leather chair, erect
+and stiff and insignificant, her auburn hair and homely face not one to
+charm her future husband still in his twenties, she not far from the
+fatal forty. A deeply pathetic portrait this. Good woman she was
+personally, despite having been made the scape-goat for a system, yet
+one can read in the pinched shrewdness of her mouth that she lacked her
+grandmother's height of brain,<a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a> nor was she capable of her mother's
+dignity of sorrow, whose grand insulted womanhood Shakespeare has
+rendered so magnificently.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> There are many other notable portraits in
+the Prado; a stately matron and her three sons by Parmigianino; a rich
+pigment of color, Rembrandt's wife; Raphael's Cardinal,&mdash;the acute,
+keen, Italian face so different from the Spanish type; a striking Count
+de Berg by Van Dyke. Mantegna has a small canvas, the "Tránsito de la
+Virgen," with the apostles gathered round the couch, a graphic glimpse
+through the window behind of Mantua. Mantegna put thought into his work,
+and he compels thought from others; this "Tránsito" drew me to it in the
+same browsing study as that small triptych in the Uffizi.</p>
+
+<p>Then upstairs are more Italians. The facile Veronese has here, curiously
+enough, a really impressive scene, Christ and the Centurion. There are
+many Rubens, and some peaceful Claude Lorraine sunsets and sunrises,
+offering the needed siesta of quiet in a full collection. And downstairs
+in the basement are the primitives, Van Eyck, Van der Weyden, Memling,<a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a>
+mystical enough to refresh the soul of a Huysmans. The gilded
+backgrounds of these celestial annunciations, these interiors of so
+intense and breathless a reverence, have always seemed to me a pure
+symbol of the uncomplicated perfection of their faith, the unquestioning
+mental background of the age.</p>
+
+<p>After Velasquez it is not easy to feel much enthusiasm for the other
+Spanish painters. Murillo can only be really known in Seville, in whose
+gallery he predominates as does Velasquez here. It is a coincidence that
+both of Spain's first painters should have been born in the same
+Andalusian city, within twenty years of each other, and that the ashes
+of both should have been scattered to the wind in the French invasion.
+Zurbaran's white-robed monks,&mdash;he painted Carthusians as Murillo did
+Franciscans, and Roelas the Jesuits,&mdash;are always effective, but they
+miss being taken seriously by a dash of pose in them. As for Ribera's
+martyrdoms, (his portraits are very fine,) if chance led us into his
+room, one glance and we fled; it is not pleasant to see people
+disemboweled. The same shuddering horror you feel before some of Goya's,
+as for instance that awful but tremendously moving blood-red <i>Dos de
+Mayo</i>. Goya is almost too crabbedly individual to be liked unreservedly.
+He is in a way the Hogarth of the South, with a gruesome, fantastic<a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a>
+imagination, quite pitiless to the vices or follies of his generation;
+witness the portrait of the Infanta María Josefa, or the appalling group
+surrounding Charles IV, "a grocer's family who have won the big lottery
+prize," Gautier cleverly said of it. At times you think Goya had no
+elevation of soul, then you come on a portrait that shows he could see
+something besides the weakness of human nature. He was a true Aragonese,
+stubborn, energetic, analytic. And it should never be forgotten that he
+painted in that desert of art, the eighteenth century, and swept aside
+the weak methods of generations to return to Velasquez's vigor of
+technique.</p>
+
+<p>No visitor in Madrid can possibly miss the Prado gallery, but it is not
+difficult to omit the Armory; for, discouraged by going to see sights
+not worth the effort, you may think the <i>Armería</i> just the usual dull
+collection found in capitals, of interest only to the specialist. No
+greater mistake could be made. This Madrid museum is like nothing of its
+kind in Europe, it is an unrivaled show, one hour there and you learn
+volumes of Spanish history.</p>
+
+<p>It consists of a large hall, down whose center is massed a splendid
+array of horsemen, caparisoned in historic armor. The manikins have been
+fitted out thoroughly. Their gauntleted hands<a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a> hold the polished spears,
+and ostrich plumes wave from their helmets; they give an astonishing
+effect of life. Among the thirty-odd suits worn by Charles V, here is
+the identical one Titian painted in the equestrian portrait, decked with
+the similar doge-red scarf and plumes. There is the gallant little
+Baltasar Carlos' suit of mail; the armor of that Bayard of Spain,
+Garcilaso de la Vega; of the hero of Lepanto, Don John of Austria, and
+some of the banners and ship-prows of his victory; the suit of Charles'
+general, the Marquis of Pescara, Vittoria Colonna's husband; the tent of
+Francis I at the battle of Pavia; the arms of Juan de Padilla, who led
+the uprising of the independent cities against Charles. History is
+followed from earliest times in raw gold Visigothic crowns, the sword of
+Pelayo at Cavadonga, the sword of the great slayer of Moors, King
+Ferdinand <i>el Santo</i> of Castile, and the winged-dragon helmet of as
+mighty a battle leader, King Jaime <i>el Conquistador</i> of Aragon, down to
+the last stage of the seven hundred years' crusade, in Isabella's armor;
+that of the Gran Capitán; Boabdil's engraved with Moorish letters; and,
+finally, the surrendered keys of Granada. Spain's majestic hour lives
+again here.</p>
+
+<p>As we left the Armoury, a present-day scene presented itself and it
+struck me as very characteristic<a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a> of a country where the grandee,
+shopkeeper, and peasant live side by side in friendliness. Before us lay
+the big courtyard of the Royal Palace, the King's very doorstep as it
+were, and it overflowed with hundreds of children, nursemaids, families,
+and soldiers; the crowd being chiefly of a popular character. They tell
+of strict Spanish etiquette, but it appears to me as if the people here
+get nearer to their king than elsewhere. Rough boys and men were pouring
+into the Armoury to wander with pride among the plumed knights, and by
+their glance they showed they felt themselves part of the stirring past.
+Each knew himself a <i>cristiano viejo</i><a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> whose forebears had struck a
+blow for the <i>Reconquista</i>.<a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="TOLEDO" id="TOLEDO"></a>TOLEDO</h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"But changeless and complete<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Rise unperturbed and vast<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Above our din and heat<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The turrets of the Past,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Mute as that city asleep<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Lulled with enchantments deep<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Far in Arabian dreamland built where all things last."<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">W<small>ILLIAM</small> W<small>ATSON</small><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">T<small>OLEDO</small> has been compared to Durham, but it is the similarity between a
+splendid lean old leopard and a beautiful domestic cat. The largest
+river of Spain, the Tagus, without a touch of England's lovely verdure
+to soften it, sweeps impetuously round the Spanish ecclesiastic city,
+through a wild gorge from which it derives its name (<i>tajo</i>, cut) and
+above the river-cliffs rise sun-whitened houses, innumerable
+monasteries, and church towers, in a compact, imposing mass. Across the
+river is a barren wilderness, solitary as if never trod by foot of man,
+and this, close to an historic city. Stern and a bit fanatic,&mdash;for she
+has lived for generations, with sword in hand to guard her
+altars,&mdash;Toledo represents ascetic, exalted Castile as completely as
+palm-crowned<a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a> Seville, stretching out in the meadows by the winding
+Guadalquivir sums up the ease-loving character of Andalusia. The thought
+of the Moor is never long absent in the fertile southern province, but
+here, though for a time he ruled as conqueror, every stone of the city
+tells of crusading Christian ideals.</p>
+
+<p>Most travelers run down to Toledo from Madrid for merely a day, whereas
+it is eminently a spot for a pause of several days. Not only once but a
+second and a third time should you cross the Alcántara bridge and climb
+the silent hills beyond it. From there Toledo stands up in haunting
+majesty, one of the imperial things in the world. Wild footpaths lead
+along the hills, so you can follow the immense loop of the river and
+return to the city by St. Martin's bridge.</p>
+
+<p>The desolate Tagus is as unchanged by the centuries as the hills
+confining it. Toledo's first mayor, the Cid, looked on much the same
+scene that we know, nor could it have been very different when, earlier,
+the last of the Gothic kings, Roderick, saw the fair Florinda bathing by
+St. Martin's bridge,&mdash;which untimely spying the legend says brought the
+African invasion on Spain; the same as when King Wamba ruled here, and
+his name is synonymous with "as old as the hills"; the same as when the
+city's patron,<a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a> Leocadia, was hurled down from the cliffs in Dacian's
+persecution.</p>
+
+<p>Once inside the Puerta del Sol (a real gateway, not a plaza where a gate
+once stood, like its Madrid namesake), we found ourselves in a fretwork
+of narrow streets where we got lost at every turning. These twisting
+passages were so built that if the city walls were captured, the people
+could still offer a stiff resistance. Zig-zag up and down the lanes go,
+every few yards coming to a small triangle, out of which lead three
+narrow ways,&mdash;which to choose is ever the bewildering question. Push on
+boldly, the tortuous streets are worth exploring at random, and if you
+wander long enough you are sure to find yourself before the Cathedral or
+in the famous Zocodover Square. Morning and afternoon we were out
+exploring, with a good map to guide us, yet up to the very last day, we
+lost the way half a dozen times. The constant uncertainty was
+fascinating; only in such unhurried rambles does the <i>genius loci</i>
+reveal itself. Now we stumbled on San Cristo de la Luz, in whose
+diminutive chamber are Visigothic capitals, Moorish arches, and a
+Christian <i>retablo</i>; it was here Alfonso VI heard his first Mass in the
+conquered city, the Cid Campeador at his side. Now we stopped to see the
+empty church of El Tránsito, in the Mudéjar style, built originally<a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a> as
+a synagogue, and we found there an astonishingly beautiful arabesque
+frieze. This Mudéjar style (Moorish and Christian architecture mixed)
+has here what I think is its most perfect example, Santa María la
+Blanca, also a former synagogue, then a church, and at present national
+property.</p>
+
+<p>As usual, our first visit after arrival, was to the Cathedral, not so
+easy to find as in most places, since it is not set on the highest part
+of the city, and is shut in with cluttering houses. As usual, too, like
+most Spanish churches, the exterior is meaningless; but the interior is
+a vigorous, pure Gothic, which is called the most national expression of
+this style in Spain. Like Seville, the ground plan is a <i>sala</i>, or hall;
+though the aisles here lessen in height so rapidly that they give a far
+different effect from Seville's lofty nave. The double-aisled ambulatory
+as at Avila is unique and beautiful in its effect. Spanish Gothic may be
+less artistically faultless than that of France, but certainly its
+massive grandeur and even its very extravagance render it many times
+more picturesque.</p>
+
+<p>The primate of Spanish cathedrals is the richest in tombs, paintings,
+<i>rejas</i>, carvings, vestments, and jewels, even after the French carried
+away some hundred weight of silver treasure. Unfortunately, it was here
+we began to<a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a> feel like tourists and to experience the jaded weariness of
+the personally conducted. We had wandered freely over the churches of
+the north, for a slight fee the verger had unlocked the choir and
+separate chapels, and then had gone off to let us examine them
+undisturbed. Here the flocking tourist has brought about the pest of
+tickets for each separate part of the church, and the guide, when one
+pauses to loiter, impatiently rattles his keys. And one longs to loiter
+in the most perfect <i>coro</i> of Spain, where Maestro Rodrigo, and
+Berruguete, and Vignani carved; in the <i>sala capitular</i>, or the Alvaro
+de Luna chapel of florid Gothic, where the beheaded Grand-Constable lies
+guarded by four stone knights of Santiago.</p>
+
+<p>Since Spanish cathedrals were gradual growths, here is to be found, in a
+mass of violent sculpture called the <i>Transparente</i>, the bad taste of
+the eighteenth century. The bishop who erected the <i>Transparente</i> lies
+buried near by, covered by a mammoth slab of brass, on which, in bold
+letters, you read, "Here lies dust, ashes, nothing," an epitaph whose
+ironic, fatigued simplicity does not ring true; very different from that
+genuinely humble epitaph in Worcester Cathedral, that one impressive
+word "Miserrimus." <i>Transparente</i> and tombstone are subtly allied, not
+inappropriate memorials of one who<a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a> was instrumental in bringing the
+academic Bourbons to the Spanish throne in 1700.</p>
+
+<p>In the sacristy is a beautiful picture, the <i>Expolio</i>, "Stripping Our
+Lord before the Crucifixion," by El Greco, the strange Byzantine Greek
+who drifted to Toledo and in his forty years there because more Spanish
+than the Spaniards. In his case the accident of birth was nothing;
+though born in Crete of Greek parents, refugees from Constantinople, El
+Greco was a true Castilian soul. He had known Venice in the days of
+Tintoret and Titian, but it was only when he came to Toledo that he
+found the atmosphere, mystic and chivalrous, in which his genius could
+develop. His was the spiritualized mysticism of a Teresa or a John of
+the Cross, with little of the conventional piety of Murillo. And he has
+rendered the Spanish hidalgo as has none other, on his canvas "they live
+an inner life, indifferent to the world; sad with the nostalgia for a
+higher existence, their melancholy eyes look at you with memories of a
+fairer past age that will not return. They are the dignified images of
+the last warrior ascetics."<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p>
+
+<p>There is no denying that some of El Greco's pictures are aberrations;
+when I first saw him in the Escorial gallery, I thought him eccentric to
+madness. Thanks to Professor Raphael<a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a> Domenech of the Prado School of
+Art, I looked a second time and learned to appreciate him. "What he did
+ill, no one did worse, but what he did well, no one did better." Toledo
+has many of his masterpieces. In the Church of Santo Domingo is his
+"Ascension" and the two Saint Johns; in Santo Tomé, his splendid "Burial
+of Count Orgaz." The chapel of San José and the churches of San Vicente
+and San Nicolás have some good examples of his, and the Provincial
+Museum has a remarkable series of the apostles with a truly noble
+representation of their Master. El Greco&mdash;by the way, his real name was
+Domenikos Theotokopoulos&mdash;lived with princely magnificence, his
+friendship sought by the cultivated society round him, and on his death
+he was buried in San Bartolomé, regretted by the whole city. His
+sumptuous way of life was continued by his son, who built the cupola
+that covers the Mozarabic Chapel of the Cathedral.</p>
+
+<p>This brings us to perhaps the most interesting survival of the past that
+exists in Spain, the Mozarabic Mass, said every morning in the western
+end of Toledo Cathedral. Mozarabic means Mixt-Arab, and is the name
+applied to the Christians who were under Moorish rule. Living isolated
+from their fellow-believers they kept to the old Gothic ritual. In the
+eleventh<a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a> century the Christian conqueror of Toledo, Alfonso VI, after
+an artless trial by fire of the rival books, introduced the Gregorian
+liturgy, used by the rest of Europe. The learned Archbishop of Toledo,
+Cardinal Ximenez, thought the Gothic ritual too interesting a national
+memorial to be lost, so he endowed a chapel with its own chapter of
+canons.</p>
+
+<p>The morning after our arrival, I hastened down to the Cathedral to hear
+a Mozarabic Mass. It puzzles me how Ford, the traveler, could have
+written of it as he did, as if its simplicity put to shame the later
+rite, for a Catholic could to-day attend the Mozarabic service with no
+striking feeling of difference. In some respects it is simpler than the
+Gregorian Mass, in others more elaborate; thus, for instance, the Host
+is divided into nine parts, to represent the Incarnation, Epiphany,
+Nativity, Circumcision, Passion, Death, Redemption, Ascension, and
+Eternal Kingdom. The kiss of peace is given before the Consecration; the
+Credo is recited after the offertory.</p>
+
+<p>In my eagerness to be in time, I arrived half an hour too early, so I
+whiled away the minutes watching the altar boys prepare for the
+ceremony. It was easy to read, in their air of proprietorship that their
+duties were an achieved ambition, the reward of good conduct. One of<a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a>
+the lads climbed up on the big brass eagle of the lectern and gave it an
+affectionate polish; then, having partly illuminated the altar,&mdash;during
+the ceremony more candles were lighted,&mdash;they whipped out their smart
+red cassocks, and stood side by side in severe precision, to salute the
+eight canons, "<i>Buenos Días!</i>" altar boys and dignitaries bowed with
+leisurely Spanish courtesy. In their preparations the small acolytes had
+found the supply of altar wine somewhat short, so more was sent for.
+During the solemn moments of the Mass, a messenger arrived with an
+offensive flask. With rustling dignity in his trailing red gown, the
+majordomo of ten swept across the chapel to thrust out the tactless
+blunderer, and the look of apologetic confusion on his cherub face, as
+he returned to his post of honor, was adorable.</p>
+
+<p>Some German tourists noisily came into the chapel, and refusing to kneel
+at the moment of the elevation, the verger, in a spirit the founder
+would have applauded, pointed with his silver wand, a silent but
+inflexible dismissal. This first morning of my visit, too, a group of
+hardy countrymen came to the Mozarabic Mass; with cap in hand and cloak
+flung toga-like over their muscular shoulders, they knelt on one knee,
+as instinctively graceful as the shepherds in Murillo's "Nativity." When
+the service was over,<a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a> in respectful quiet despite their arrogant
+carriage, these unlettered men rose and passed out to loiter in the
+Cathedral for a half hour. "The rank is but the guinea's stamp, the
+man's the gold for a' that," rings often in the ear in Castile.</p>
+
+<p>Cardinal Ximenez, founder of the Chapel, was Castilian to the core, and
+Toledo for him, just as for El Greco, was fittest home. He was born in
+1436 in the province of Madrid of an old family that had fallen in his
+day on moderate circumstances. In Spain, Ximenez is often called
+Cisneros, for there two surnames are used; the first following the
+Christian name is the patronymic name of the father, the second that of
+the mother. Sometimes a man uses his paternal surname alone, more seldom
+his mother's family name alone, as in the case of Velasquez, whose
+father was a de Silva.</p>
+
+<p>A studious disposition early destined Ximenez to the priesthood, and
+following a few years' study in Alcalá, which he was to raise to a
+world-known university, he went to Salamanca. After a long stay in Rome,
+on his return to Spain he wasted some precious years in an unfortunate
+ecclesiastic dispute. His true worth was not discovered till he went,
+when over forty, to serve in the Cathedral of Sigüenza, where Cardinal
+Mendoza, the future "Rex<a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a> Tertius," was then bishop. Recognizing the new
+chaplain's remarkable powers, he made him his vicar-general. But
+Ximenez, in the face of every chance of rapid advancement in the Church,
+felt within him a longing for the retired life of prayer. He chose the
+strictest order of his day, and entered the Franciscan monastery of San
+Juan de los Reyes at Toledo. All who know Toledo will remember it, built
+in the bizarre, flamboyant, often overladen but always grandiose style
+of Isabella and Ferdinand. On its outer walls hang iron chains, the
+votive offerings of Christian captives ransomed from the Moors in
+Africa, and one cannot help thinking that the concentrated mind of the
+new novice received an indelible impression from these souvenirs of
+Moslem barbarity, a bias that found later expression in his stern
+treatment of the Moors of Granada and his crusading siege of Oran.</p>
+
+<p>Ximenez had sought a life of prayer in San Juan de los Reyes, but a
+personality such as his could not help but rise in acknowledged
+supremacy above those around him. The fame of his intellect and holiness
+soon drew to his confessional the leading minds of Toledo, and he found
+himself, to his distress, again in touch with the world. He retired to a
+more isolated Franciscan monastery, and gave himself up to years of<a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a>
+study and prayer. Men seemed then to find time for the long spaces of
+tranquil thought that solidify character; holding the highest posts that
+ambition could achieve, they seemed to know themselves as dust before
+the wind. The key-note of to-day is breadth not intensity, and it
+sometimes seems as if our scattered knowledge leads to a more
+superficial outlook on the elemental and eternal verities, that
+universal education tends to universal mediocrity. Why have so few
+to-day the old-time spaciousness of vision? Is it because education then
+meant the development of the soul as well as of the intellect, because
+in acknowledging that there are an infinite number of things beyond
+reason they attained what Pascal calls the highest point of reason?
+"Ever learning and never attaining to the knowledge of the truth" we
+seem indeed. Wholly-rounded opportunities were given in that age. Poets
+and novelists then were soldiers in the roving wars of
+Europe,<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a>&mdash;Garcilaso, Cervantes, Lope de Vega, Calderón, these last
+two priests as well, and Garcilaso making a holy end helped by a grandee
+who was a saint, and Cervantes dying in the habit of the Assisian. But I
+suppose this carping comparison is just the never-ending tendency to
+look on a previous day<a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a> as better than one's own. Jorge Manrique felt
+the same way:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i2">"á nuestro parecer<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Cualquiera tiempo pasado<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Fué mejor"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">and he wrote his immortal "Coplas" in the golden age of Isabella
+herself.</p>
+
+<p>To return to Ximenez. After a long period of retirement he was made,
+against his will, confessor to the Queen at Valladolid. There exists an
+account by a witness of the sensation his thin, ascetic face caused in
+the court, as if an early Syrian anchorite had wandered thither. Three
+years later, on the death of Mendoza, the Queen's influence in Rome had
+Ximenez named his successor in Toledo. So angry was her confessor that
+he left the court. Isabella, gallant woman of heart and brain, who so
+enthusiastically perceived greatness in others, appealed to the Pope to
+order Cisneros to accept his see.</p>
+
+<p>Up to this the Archbishops of Toledo had been men of great lineage who
+lived with splendor. And a striking succession of master minds they
+make, lying ready for an historian to group in a remarkable record;
+scholars, statesmen, founders of hospitals and schools, now a prelate of
+saintly life, now a leader of armies like Archbishop Rodrigo, who having
+borne the standard of the Cross in the thick of the fight at Las<a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a> Navas
+de Tolosa, chanted the Te Deum of victory on that memorable field, the
+first Christian foothold in Andalusia. Of all the primates of Toledo,
+Mendoza, "Tertius Rex," had been highest in rank and power. The monk who
+succeeded this prince of the church dropped all pomp and lived like a
+humble Franciscan. Again the undaunted Isabella appealed to her friend
+the Pope to advise the new Archbishop to keep up the dignity of his see
+before the people. Cisneros yielded outwardly, but under the veneer of
+display he led the ascetic life.</p>
+
+<p>The Queen's insight into character had judged right. Mystic contemplator
+though he was, Ximenez was a born ruler: prudent, courageous, and firm.
+He straightened difficulties and reformed abuses. As his own moral
+character was stainless and his disinterestedness well proven, there was
+happily no inconsistency in his preaching. Gomez tells that the moral
+tone of society, lay and ecclesiastic, was so improved by the energetic
+bishop that "men seemed to have been born again."</p>
+
+<p>As to Ximenez' much criticised attitude toward the Moors, it was at one
+with its age. To reproach him with it is as unreasonable as to condemn
+Marcus Aurelius for having persecuted the Christians, or George
+Washington for having silently accepted negro slavery. A man, no<a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a> matter
+how great his character, is limited somewhere by the standards of his
+period. The fifteenth century was far from being radical in the
+privileges it extended to free opinion. Even some generations later we
+find, in the Palatinate, when the Elector Frederick III turned from
+Lutheranism to Calvinism, in 1563, he forced all his subjects under pain
+of banishment, to turn with him. Within a few years his son changed them
+back to Lutheranism, only to have them, under the next ruler,
+constrained with severe punishments to again accept the Heidelberg
+catechism. The religious history of most of the states of Europe prove
+that the same theory was held: "cujus regio, ejus religio." Ximenez can
+plead more excuse for his attitude since in Spain was the problem of the
+more radical difference of Christianity and Islam. He felt, and the
+constant later revolts somewhat justified the idea, that a newly
+conquered people is not likely to remain loyal, when they are bound
+together against their ruler in an antagonistic creed. So he went to
+Granada in 1499 to labor for the conversion of the people.</p>
+
+<p>At first he used much the same methods that prevail to-day in some of
+our cities, what we may call the soup-kitchen missionary system to
+evangelize the emigrant. Ximenez instructed the Mohammedan in doctrine,
+and he also gave<a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a> presents to impress the oriental mind. So effectively
+did the method work that immense numbers of citizens embraced the faith.
+On one day four thousand were baptized. So far the treaty of the
+Conquest was not violated, since the conversions were voluntary. When,
+however, there was a revolt of those Moors who were angered by seeing
+the rapid spread of Christianity, harsher methods than persuasion were
+resorted to. The letter of the treaty was kept but its spirit, that
+reflected Isabella's magnanimous tolerance, was stretched indeed. The
+first uprising turned to open rebellion, and when this was put down, the
+majority of the citizens let themselves be baptized to avoid exile and
+confiscation. Though the two great prelates, the gentle Talavera and the
+indomitable Ximenez, burning with zeal, went about the city catechising
+and instructing the poorest, there were many thousands of Mohammedans
+who hated the religion to which outwardly they conformed. A child to-day
+can understand the futility of such conversions. No one denies that
+Ximenez was stern. He who loved learning with the passionate devotion of
+a Bede or an Erasmus, (we all know the remark of Francis I when confined
+at Alcalá, "one Spanish monk has done what it would take a line of kings
+in France to accomplish"), this same humanist scholar burned in public
+bonfire<a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a> the Moslem books, only reserving the medical ones for Alcalá:
+surely this is proof of his grim sincerity.</p>
+
+<p>When Isabella died, Ximenez took Ferdinand's side against his
+impertinent Austrian son-in-law. Philip I did not live long enough to
+involve Spain in an internecine war, her curse for ages; and it was the
+great statesman's hold on the government, at the time of the young
+king's sudden death, that saved the country from a revolution. Ferdinand
+had the man to whom he owed Castile, created a Cardinal, and he also
+appointed him Grand-Inquisitor.</p>
+
+<p>Many hold the erroneous opinion that Ximenez was one of the founders of
+the Holy Office in Spain. It was established ten years before he came to
+court as Isabella's confessor, and it was only now, in his sixty-first
+year that he had control in it. True to his reforming character he set
+about changing what abuses had crept in. He fostered the better
+religious instruction of the newly converted; and he prosecuted the
+inquisitor Lucero, who had been guilty of injustice.</p>
+
+<p>The great Cardinal-Archbishop was over threescore and ten when he
+undertook the expedition to Northern Africa. He had long burned to plant
+the Church again where it had<a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a> flourished under St. Cyprian and St.
+Augustine. As the pirates of Oran were a terror in the Mediterranean, it
+was against that city he set out in the year 1509. His address to the
+troops before the battle, encouraging them against an enemy who had
+ravaged their coasts, dragged their children into slavery, and insulted
+the Christian name, roused the men to an heroic charge up the hill of
+Oran with Spain's battle cry <i>Santiago!</i> on their lips. Of the vast
+treasure found in the city, Ximenez who had spent a fortune to fit out
+the expedition, only reserved the Moslem books for his University of
+Alcalá. For it must not be forgotten that in the midst of state
+questions, this remarkable man was carrying on the building and endowing
+of an University to whose halls the learned minds of Spain and Europe
+were invited. He was printing at his own expense the well-known Polyglot
+Bible, the first edition in their original texts of the Christian
+Scriptures. From his early years a close student of the Bible, he had
+learned Chaldaic and Hebrew for its better study; every day on his knees
+he read a chapter of the Holy Word. Besides these interests he found
+time to build various hospitals, libraries, and churches, to organize
+summer retreats for the health of his professors, to print and
+distribute free works on agriculture, to give dowries to distressed<a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a>
+women, to visit the sick in person, and to feed daily thirty poor in his
+palace.</p>
+
+<p>Ferdinand, a good ruler, but suspicious and ungrateful, never had much
+love for the Cardinal. Yet on his deathbed he left him Regent of
+Castile, saying that a better leader on account of his virtues and love
+of justice could not be found to reëstablish order and morality, and
+only wishing he were a little more pliable. Some idea of Ximenez' genius
+may be gathered from a hasty review of his Regency, which covered the
+last two years of his life. It stands an astonishing feat of noble
+activity. He brought order into the finances and paid the crown debts.
+He introduced the militia system into the army, proving that men fight
+better when they defend their own homes. He strengthened the navy to
+help break the Moorish pirate Barbarossa who controlled the sea. He
+restored the dockyards of Seville. He crushed a French invasion in
+Navarre, and put down local disorders in Málaga and other places, for
+the nobles took this opportunity to again assert themselves. He adjusted
+troubles with both the ex-queens, Juana la Loca and Germaine de Foix. It
+was just four months before his death that the Polyglot Bible was
+finished. When the young son of the printer, dressed in his best attire,
+ran with the last sheets to the Cardinal, Ximenez exclaimed<a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a> fervently:
+"I thank thee, O most high God, that thou hast brought this work to its
+longed-for end!" To-day the more scientific methods of philology have
+put the Complutensian Polyglot in the shade, but none deny that for its
+period it was a notable work.</p>
+
+<p>Another of Ximenez' reforms, little known, was his advocacy of Las Casas
+in the crusade against Indian slavery in the American colonies. As early
+as 1511, a Dominican preacher named Montesino gave a sermon in the
+Cathedral of Santo Domingo, before the governor Diego Columbus, in which
+he thundered against the ill-treatment of the natives. The monks were
+threatened with expulsion by the rich settlers unless Montesino
+retracted, whereupon on the following Sunday, the brave reformer not
+only repeated his previous attack but added fresh proofs. Against fierce
+opposition the Dominicans refused the sacraments to every one who owned
+an Indian slave. But they could not end the evil, so the passionate Las
+Casas, whose whole life may be said to have burned with fury for this
+cause, returned to Spain to plead for the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>The Regent took up the question with interest, and the commission which
+he organized and sent out to the Colonies is a model of reforming
+government worthy of study. Just as it was<a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a> about to start, fourteen
+pious Franciscans came down to Spain to offer themselves for the good
+work. Among them was a brother of the King of Scotland,&mdash;a rather
+delightful episode of the cosmopolitanism of religion. Ximenez also
+issued a proclamation forbidding the importation of negro slaves, for
+the colonists had already learned that one negro did the work of four
+Indians. Should not this act of farseeing wisdom, be set against his
+stern treatment of the Moors?</p>
+
+<p>Ximenez ruled as Regent of Castile from the time of Ferdinand's death to
+the coming of Charles V to his distant possessions. The
+Cardinal-Archbishop, alert in mind and body though over eighty, was on
+his way to meet the young Emperor on his landing in the north, when he
+died suddenly at Roa, in the province of Burgos. He was buried in his
+loved Alcalá, and his tomb still rests in the dismantled town whose
+University has been removed to Madrid. Just thirty years after the
+Cardinal's death, one of the world's supreme geniuses was born under the
+shadow of his University, as if a compensating Providence would reward
+the Franciscan friar's unresting love of letters. Ximenez has received
+scant justice, but if the atmosphere of culture which he created at
+Alcalá, had aught to do with making Cervantes<a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a> what he was, the stern
+educator did not live in vain.</p>
+
+<p>In Toledo it takes no effort of the imagination to people the streets
+with the figures of the past; it is every-day life that drops away, and
+the surprise is that one does not meet some intellectual-faced cardinal,
+some hidalgo in velvet cloak or chased armor. The stone effigies on the
+tombs of Spanish churches make it easy to picture a certain very
+splendid presence that once walked, in youth's proud livery, these
+silent streets. Garcilaso de la Vega is a pure type of the grandee,
+Spain's Philip Sidney, a courtier, a soldier, a poet whose gift of song
+made him the idol of the nation, he is one of the alluring figures of
+history. By writing in Virgilian classic verse, he changed the rhythm of
+Spanish poetry from that of the "Cid," of Juan de Mena and Manrique. "In
+our Spain, Garcilaso stands first beyond compare," wrote a contemporary
+poet, a judgment held later by Cervantes and Lope de Vega.</p>
+
+<p>This lovable hero was born in Toledo while Ximenez was still its active
+if aged Archbishop. He came of distinguished stock, the first Garcia
+Laso de la Vega was the favorite of Alfonso XI in 1328. This later
+namesake had for father a knight of Santiago, lord of many towns,
+ambassador to Rome, and one of Isabella<a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a> and Ferdinand's councilors of
+state; on his mother's side his lineage was still more illustrious, she
+was a Guzmán, another of Spain's families whose prominence continued for
+centuries.</p>
+
+<p>Garcilaso, who early showed his love for the liberal arts, received a
+finished education. At fifteen he became guardsman to Charles V, and his
+qualities of heart and brain soon won him the affectionate admiration of
+the court. "Comely in action, noble in speech, gentle in sentiment,
+vehement in friendship, nature had made his body a fitting temple for
+his soul." And Spain can show this harmony in many of her sons. Some
+untranslatable words describe Garcilaso, <i>hermosamente varonil</i>, the
+superb manhood of beauty. During the Emperor's wars in Italy he fought
+bravely, and at the Battle of Pavia, where Pescara's lions of Spain
+carried all before them, he won distinction. He was not merely a soldier
+in Italy, his richly-endowed nature avidly seized on her art and
+learning. Cardinal Bembo calls him "best loved and most welcome of all
+the Spaniards that ever come to us." Like Sir Philip Sidney, the young
+poet was not destined to reach middle age; a short thirty-three years is
+his record. At a siege near Fréjus, in the south of France, he fell
+wounded into the arms of his dearest friend, the Marquis de Lombay, and
+in spite of Charles<a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a> V sending his skilled physician and coming in
+person to visit the wounded knight, he died. He was buried among his
+ancestors in the church of San Pedro Mártir, in Toledo, "where every
+stone in the city is his monument," wrote the euphuistic Góngora.</p>
+
+<p>Truly that age was past rivalry in the appealingly noble characters it
+produced, fine spirits of heroism, fit inheritors of Isabella's period
+that had prepared the soil for such a flowering. A Garcilaso de la Vega
+is the bosom friend of a Francis Borgia, a Francis Borgia communes with
+a Teresa de Jesús with the intense pleasure of feeling souls akin, an
+Ignatius Loyola serves as guide to a Francis Xavier, and so on, these
+noted lives touch and overlap. What an array the first fifty years of
+the sixteenth century can show! 1503 Garcilaso was born, also Diego
+Hurtado de Mendoza, the noted diplomat and patron of letters; 1504 Luis
+de Granada, the religious writer; 1506 St. Francis Xavier of Navarre,
+who died the great missionary of the East; 1510 St. Francis Borgia; 1515
+St. Teresa, "fair sister of the seraphim"; 1529 Luis de León, Spain's
+best lyric poet; 1534 Fernando de Herrera, another poet; 1542, St. John
+of the Cross, that mystic flame of Divine love; 1545, the dashing hero
+of Lepanto, Don John of Austria; and final glory of this half century,
+and of<a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a> all centuries, 1547, Miguel de Cervantes. The opening of the
+next century was fecund in men of creative genius: 1599, Velasquez;
+1616, Calderón; 1617, Murillo, but to one who loves <i>España la heróica</i>,
+the earlier age is dearer.</p>
+
+<p>The gray city on the Tagus is worthy of such citizens, "fit compeer for
+such high company." So many are her associations that one turns aside in
+irresistible digressions. In a palace near Santo Tomé, Isabella of
+Portugal, Charles V's wife, died: to those who know Titian's portrait of
+her in the Prado, she is a beautiful, living presence. Francis Borgia
+who in early youth had married one of her ladies in waiting, was the
+equerry appointed to escort her dead body to Granada, where it was to be
+laid in the Chapel Royal. When the coffin was opened to verify the
+Empress, she who had been all loveliness so short a time before was
+changed to so horrible a sight that the Marquis de Lombay is said to
+have exclaimed, "Never more will I serve a master who can die!" The
+Hound of Heaven was in pursuit of grand quarry here. A few years before,
+the death of Garcilaso his friend had sobered Francis. Now came the loss
+of his cherished wife, with whom he had lived in truly holy wedlock: in
+Catalonia where he was the Emperor's viceroy, a lady asked the Marquesa
+one day why she of such high standing and beauty dressed so plainly,<a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a>
+and she answered how could she do otherwise when her husband wore a
+hair-shirt beneath his velvet. Lombay succeeded to his father's estates
+and the title of Duke of Gandía, his children&mdash;who eventually rose to
+distinction&mdash;were a natural temptation to stifle the higher call of
+which he was conscious:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"For, though I knew His love who followed,<br /></span>
+<span class="i6">Yet was I sore adread<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Lest, having Him, I must have naught beside."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>It was a tremendous decision to make, completely to relinquish a future
+of international influence; relentlessly the heavenly Feet pursued:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"I fled Him, down the nights and down the days;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">I fled Him, down the arches of the years;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">I fled Him, down the labyrinthine ways<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Of my own mind; and in the midst of tears<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">I hid from Him, and under running laughter.<br /></span>
+<span class="i6">Up vistaed hopes I sped;<br /></span>
+<span class="i6">And shot, precipitated<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Adown Titanic glooms of chasmed fears,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">From those strong Feet that followed, followed after.<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">But with unhurried chase,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">And unperturbèd pace,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Deliberate speed,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Majestic instancy,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">They beat&mdash;and a Voice beat<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">More instant than the Feet&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">'All things betray thee who betrayest Me.'"<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a></p>
+
+<p>The compelling Voice won. Having settled his children, the Duke of
+Gandía gave up titles and estates to enter the Company of Jesus, of
+which he has been called the second founder, so fruitful were the years
+of his generalship.</p>
+
+<p>The death of Isabella of Portugal is connected with another foremost
+member of the <i>Compañía</i>. The Pope sent Cardinal Farnese to carry his
+condolences to the Emperor, and the papal suite lodged in a house of
+Toledo near that of a widow named Ribadeneyra. Her willful,
+high-spirited and captivating boy Pedro attached himself voluntarily to
+the embassy, and so won the notice of the Cardinal that he was taken
+back to Rome, where, by another hap-hazard in his life, he fell under
+the influence of St. Ignatius Loyola, became his loved pupil and future
+biographer. The books of this delightful Pedro, telling the early
+history of the Jesuit Order make as solidly interesting a bout of
+reading as can while away a month. He was not only the confidant of the
+first General, but of his two successors, Lainez and Borgia, he helped
+St. Charles Borromeo in his reforms at Milan, and lived long enough to
+rejoice on the day of his great master's beatification, 1609.</p>
+
+<p>In Toledo many a time Cervantes strolled, here he has set several of the
+interesting "Novelas Exemplares"; St. Teresa founded one of her houses
+here, described in her "Libro de las<a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a> Fundaciones," a companion book to
+the "Novelas"; that prodigy of improvization, Lope de Vega, also placed
+some dramas in these dark winding streets; and in the Jesuit house the
+historian Mariana, a friend of Ribadeneyra, browsed over his work,
+called by Ticknor "the most remarkable union of picturesque chronicling
+with sober fact that the world has ever seen."</p>
+
+<p>Our days in Toledo sped all too fast. For me it is one of those few
+fascinating cities of the world that rouses a recurrent longing to
+return. The impressive, solitary walk above the Tagus gorge at the hour
+of sunset is an unforgettable memory. Another walk leads to San
+Cristo-in-the-fields, the legend of whose crucifix, with one arm hanging
+pendant, has been told by Bécquer; beyond this church, across the
+<i>vega</i>, where the Tagus spreads out in relief from the confining gorge
+behind, is the <i>Fábrica de Armas</i>, where good Toledan blades are made,
+so elastic that they are packed in boxes curled up like the mainspring
+of a watch. Within the town the rambles are endless, now down the
+step-cut hill, past the Plateresque façade of Santa Cruz hospital,
+founded by Cardinal Mendoza; now out by the one sloping side of the city
+to another hospital, where the sculptor Berruguete died, and lies buried
+near his last work, the marble tomb of the founder, Cardinal Tavera. One
+day in the<a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a> narrow street, hearing the sound of singing, I entered a
+monastery church, to listen for an enchanted hour to a choir of male
+voices admirably trained.<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> There is about this town an atmosphere
+that makes you sure that real peace and holiness lie within the looming
+convent walls under which you pass. The wise Chinese statesman, Kang Yu
+Wei, who has toured the world studying its religions, said he found in a
+monastery of Toledo an impressive spirit of devout silence.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_berruguete_256_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_berruguete_256_sml.jpg" width="376" height="550" alt="Tomb of Bishop San Segundo, by Berruguete, Avila" title="Tomb of Bishop San Segundo, by Berruguete, Avila" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">Tomb of Bishop San Segundo, by Berruguete, Avila</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>We carried away a beautiful last picture of the "Crown of Spain," as her
+loyal son Padilla called her. We were to catch the night train to
+Andalusia, at Castillejo on the express route. It was a night with an
+early moon. So white and romantic lay the city streets that we sent the
+luggage by the diligence and went on foot to the distant station. When
+we crossed the Alcántara bridge, we turned to look back at the climbing
+mass of houses and churches. With a feeling of sadness we gazed at the
+old mediæval city, so far from the fret of modern life. This was to be,
+we thought, our last impression of the Castiles. Andalusia, enticing,
+warm in the sun, facile, impudent, lay ahead. Farewell to the grave,
+courteous Castilian! Farewell to the valorous stoic-heart of Spain!<a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="CORDOVA_AND_GRANADA" id="CORDOVA_AND_GRANADA"></a>CORDOVA AND GRANADA</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"The art of the Alhambra is eminently decorative, light, and
+smiling; it expresses the well being, the repose, the riches of
+life; its grace lay almost entirely in its youth. Not having the
+severe lines that rest the eye, these works paled when their first
+freshness faded. Theirs was a delicate beauty that has suffered
+more than others from the deterioration of its details."</p>
+
+<p class="r">R<small>ENÉ</small> B<small>AZIN</small>.</p></div>
+
+<p class="nind">I<small>N</small> his "Terre d' Espagne," M. René Bazin speaks of the faded city of
+Cordova, and the term is singularly exact. It is a tranquil, faded
+ghost, not a nightmare ghost, but an aloof, melancholy specter. I have
+been haunted by it often since the day and night spent there. Dull and
+unimportant as it now is, hard to be imagined as the Athens of the West
+with almost a million inhabitants and an enlightened dynasty of Caliphs,
+yet, like a true ghost, vague in feature, Cordova succeeds in making
+itself unforgettable. The past covers it like a mist. It gave me more
+the sensation of the Moslem than any other spot in Spain: Allah, not
+Christ, is its brooding spirit.</p>
+
+<p>We strolled hither and thither through its preternaturally quiet streets
+which are lined with<a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a> two-storied white or pinkish houses. Every few
+minutes we stopped with exclamations of delight to gaze through the iron
+grilles at the tiled and marble patios, here seen for the first time. "A
+patio! How shall I describe a patio!" exclaimed De Amicis, when he first
+came into Andalusia. "It is not a garden, it is not a room, it is not a
+courtyard, it is the three in one,&mdash;small, graceful, and mysterious."
+They are so spotless a king could eat off their paving-stones. Isolated
+from the stir of the world, they breathe that intimate quiet of the
+spirit felt in the pictures of the Primitives. To wander for the first
+time over a city filled with these oases, gives that exhilaration of
+novelty which as a rule the traveler has long since lost with his first
+journeys.</p>
+
+<p>I should not say our very vivid impression of Cordova depended on chance
+details,&mdash;the hour of arrival, a personal mood, the weather. Of course
+the strangeness was heightened by our coming from the north, through a
+cold night of travel on the train that made the transition from the
+central plateau of the Castiles to the semi-tropical coast belt of
+Andalusia, an abrupt one. Toledo, the last seen Castilian town, had been
+so distinctly Christian in spite of Moorish remains, and our
+night-flitting over the level sea of La Mancha was so possessed by that
+<i>español neto</i>, the adventuresome Don, that suddenly to awake among<a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a>
+palm trees and oranges gave the sensation of another race and climate.
+It was this province with its astonishing fertility that had been the
+land of Elysium of the ancients.</p>
+
+<p>Having grown familiar with the orderly streets of Cordova by day, it was
+quite without fear that we took a night ramble. Not a soul was astir.
+What were they doing, these cloistered people? It was as deserted as
+Stamboul at night, more lonely even, for here was not a single yellow
+cur to bay the moon, nor the iron beat of the watchman's staff; and
+though like the Orient in some aspects, these streets were far too
+orderly and the houses too spotless. Perhaps there lay the source of the
+indefinable fascination; this was neither East nor West, but a place
+stranded in time, made by circumstances that never will be repeated. The
+Oriental influenced the Spaniard deeply, a psychological as well as a
+racial influence. I often felt that the dignified gravity which so
+distinguishes a Spaniard from his fellow Latins is a trait acquired
+unconsciously from his Arab neighbors: nothing like it is found except
+among races whose ancestors dwelt in the desert. Also the excessive
+generosity and hospitality of the Spaniard are oriental virtues, just as
+the Andalusian procrastination and acceptance of fate are oriental
+failings. We too often forget that there were generations when,
+religious hatred<a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a> quieting down, the two peoples lived side by side in
+friendly consideration. If the Christian gained from the Moslem, the
+Moor in Spain was influenced no less potently by the standards of the
+European. He became a very different being from his brother in northern
+Africa. He learned to gather libraries, to express himself in buildings
+where he translated his nomad carpet into colored stucco; much of his
+traditional jealousy was laid aside and Moorish ladies appeared at the
+tournaments to applaud their Moorish cavaliers who tilted with the same
+rules of romantic chivalry as the Christian knights. Moslem civilization
+could even boast some femmes savantes. The stimulus of the two opposing
+races gave Spain just the impetus she needed, and the conqueror lost
+with his very victory. When all men think the same way without the spur
+of competition, inaction and ill-health are sure to follow. Perhaps the
+upholders of law and order need not worry too much to-day over the
+anarchists and socialists in the commercial districts of Spain: is not
+the health of a nation quickened by struggle?</p>
+
+<p>The soul of a Spanish city is always the Cathedral, and Cordova has what
+it called one, but it is no more a Christian church than the Caaba at
+Mecca. The canons in Charles V's time tore out the center of the Mosque
+and built a Plateresque-Gothic <i>capilla mayor</i> and <i>coro</i>. It<a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a> was an
+ignorant thing to do, and when the Emperor saw their work he exclaimed
+in disgust, "You have built here what anyone might have built elsewhere,
+but you have destroyed what was unique in the world!" Nevertheless,
+those old canons had some excuse. They felt that they could not pray in
+a proper Christian manner under the low, oppressing roof of Islam.
+Instead of "Christe Eleison," it was "Allah illal allah, ve Mahommed
+recoul" that came to their lips in abominable heresy, so in desperation
+they put up the incongruous enclosure and tried to shut Islam out.</p>
+
+<p>A building every one of whose stones has been laid in earnest faith,
+seems to have a spirit that will never desert it, let the ritual change
+as it may. Santa Sophia is Christian in spite of eight thousand
+Mussulmans prostrated there on the 27th of Ramazan: the Gregorian chant
+still echoes in Westminster Abbey. So here the canons' efforts were in
+vain, the Mezquita makes heretics of us all, we turn to the Mihrab as
+the holy of holies, not to the High Altar.</p>
+
+<p>The Mihrab is a dream of art, the mosaics are richer and softer in hue
+than an eastern rug. Leo, the Christian Emperor on the Bosphorus, sent
+Byzantine workmen to teach the Caliph this art. The enclosing carvings
+have the distinction of being in marble, not in the customary plaster,<a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a>
+also a Christian innovation. "Let us rear a mosque which shall surpass
+that of Bagdad, of Damascus, and of Jerusalem, a mosque which shall
+become the Mecca of the West," said the founders in the eighth century;
+and there is a tradition that the Caliph himself worked an hour a day
+with the builders. It is truly "unique in the world," for nothing was
+ever like these myriad aisles, forty in one direction crossed by twenty
+in another, with nine hundred short pillars of every kind of
+marble&mdash;green, red, gray, brown, fluted white&mdash;holding up the roof.
+These pillars are baseless and only thirteen feet in height; and arches
+of an ugly red and yellow spring in two tiers from column to column. The
+effect is incredibly original and eccentric,&mdash;a veritable forest of
+pillars. The fatalist spirit of Mohammed, the acceptance of life's
+limitation, is insistent here, the desert Arab's attitude of adoration,
+forehead prone to earth, is forced on you: to kneel with upraised face
+is impossible under so low a roof; were there the usual hanging balls
+and roc's eggs, even the Inquistor-General himself would have
+genuflected toward Mecca! As I wandered about the Mezquita, the two
+creeds seemed to formulate themselves more distinctly for me: one,
+soaring and idealistic, channel for the loftiest aspirations of the
+soul, the other a magnificent step forward from the lower forms of
+worship about it in the<a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a> East, nevertheless limited, so far and not
+beyond, not cleaving to the impossible, to the unattainable. "Be perfect
+even as your Father in heaven is perfect" was not taught by Mohammed.
+Islamism is a very noble average, and perhaps because men in general are
+the average, it may seem better to satisfy them. Christianity is a
+religion for the chosen souls of humanity, only by aiming at the
+impossible can the best in man develop. The majority of us are not
+chosen souls, hence we have the bitter inconsistencies between the
+theory and the practice of our faith to-day; and yet, once the vision of
+the unspeakable soul-paradise of the mystic has been conceived of, to
+rest satisfied with an average religion is impossible. Islam makes men
+happy with a dreaming bliss that veils the sun, Christianity bids you
+look up at the sun whether it blinds you or not, and here and there
+arise souls that can bear the vision and help weak eyes to see.</p>
+
+<p>When we left the Mosque, the obsession of the East still continued in
+the courtyard, where about the fountain sat groups of idlers only
+wanting the fez and turban for completion. Once the Mezquita opened on
+this court, there was no dividing wall, the trees planted in symmetrical
+lines carried on the rows of columns within, and an absolutely
+enchanting sight it must have been to look from this orange grove far
+into the dim interior<a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a> of the Mosque, lighted every evening with some
+five thousand hanging lamps.</p>
+
+<p>All tourists in Spain go to Granada, so they know the confusing station
+of Bobadilla where trains from north, south, east, and west, meet and
+exchange passengers; the journey from there on to Granada gives a
+beautiful glimpse of Andalusia; picturesquely set towns, scattered white
+villas, olive groves, even in winter the grass as green as spring. As
+apples, in the Basque provinces, and carrots at Toledo, so here oranges
+were piled up in masses. The last thirty miles of the journey were
+through the historic <i>vega</i>, a veritable garden of Eden in fertility.
+Before we reached Granada it was dark and above the city was rising an
+early moon as big as one in a Japanese print. The proprietor of the
+Pension-Villa Carmona in the Alhambra grounds was there to meet us, and
+we soon rattled off for the long drive up to the Moorish citadel.</p>
+
+<p>A night arrival at Granada enhances the romantic effect. It is
+mysterious to turn in from the noisy streets of the town at the Carlo
+Quinto gate and under the heavy foliage of elm trees slowly to mount the
+Alhambra hill; there is a gurgle and rush of running water on every
+side, one has the feeling of being in a thick Alpine forest. The horses
+mount slowly, wind and turn, pass through various gates and at length<a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a>
+you are in the small village of the citadel, and in three minutes can
+walk right into the Caliph's palace. Spain cannot show many such
+beautiful northern parks, with a growth of ivy and a shimmer of
+arrow-headed leaves under the elm trees where nightingales sing in
+season.</p>
+
+<p>It was Ford I think who started the statement which most guide books
+have gone on repeating that the Duke of Wellington planted these elms
+("the Duke" occupies more space in Murray's Hand-book than <i>los Reyes
+Católicos</i> themselves!) He may have planted some, but a certain old book
+of travels, yellow with age, tell us that just these same elm trees were
+growing and just the same kind of songster singing in 1789. "The ascent
+toward the Alhambra," wrote the Rev. Joseph Townsend in that year, "is
+through a shady and well watered grove of elms abounding with
+nightingales whose melodious warbling is not confined to the midnight
+hour; here, incessant, it is equally the delight of noon."</p>
+
+<p>This part of Granada is charming. But the city below is so dirty and
+ill-conditioned that it would spoil the Alhambra for a long stay. Even
+in the darkness on the night of our arrival it was easy to discern what
+a different aspect it had from most Spanish towns, which, while they are
+often poor, are frugally clean and self-respecting.<a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a> In Granada the
+people appeared ill-tempered, if you paused anywhere, diseased children
+gathered in a persistent begging circle, and the fierce copper-colored
+gypsies were so diabolically bold in glance and act that they made a
+walk in any of the suburbs too dangerous to be repeated. We had often
+turned off the beaten track in the Asturias, in Galicia, and Castile,
+without the least fear, but Granada will remain for me the one
+thoroughly disagreeable, frightening spot in Spain.</p>
+
+<p>Described as the Alhambra has been, it would be fatuous to try it again.
+I can only give superficial personal impressions. There is no use in
+disguising that this style of architecture disappointed me enormously. I
+could admire its extreme elegance, the details of the <i>artesonado</i>
+ceilings, the <i>ajimez</i> windows, I could acknowledge it was fairy-like, a
+charming caprice, exquisite jewel-box work: as a whole it left me quite
+cold. It was too small, it lacked height, there was no grandeur about
+it,&mdash;and all so newly done up with restorations! The first visit gave me
+an effect of trumpery, and even after I had seen it daily for two weeks,
+I could not forget that these mathematically correct designs, one yard
+very like the next, were imprinted by an iron mold on wet plaster. This
+was skilled artisan's work, not the intellectual<a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a> thought of the
+architect; here was no cutting of enduring, masculine stone with the
+individual freedom of genius. Decorations of Cufic mottoes are
+effective, but they can never compete with a Parthenon frieze, with a
+Chartres or Santiago portal. Fantasy was here, not imagination; again I
+felt the bound limit of Islam.</p>
+
+<p>Enough for the negative side. For praise, if the Alhambra itself is
+disappointing, its setting is imperial. The view on which you look out
+from its romantic <i>ajimez</i> windows has few equals in the world, and
+accounts easily for the supremacy of this spot in man's thought. You
+look down on the ravine of the Darro, the white Generalife near by,
+across the river, the piled-up houses of Granada backed by near hills
+covered with cactus. From the Torre de la Vela is a grander view. The
+<i>vega</i> with towns and historic battlefields lies below, and you try to
+pick out Santa Fé, which sprang up in eighty days to house the Christian
+troops, or Zubia, where Isabella was almost captured, or Puente de
+Pinos, which the discouraged Columbus had reached when the Queen's
+messenger brought him back to arrange for the great voyage. On this
+tower, after seven and a half centuries of Moorish rule, the first
+Christian standard was hoisted by Cardinal Mendoza, on January 2d, 1492,
+festival still of the countryside, when the<a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a> fountains play again in the
+Alhambra, and down in the Royal Chapel the Queen's illuminated missal is
+used on the altar. All Christian Europe rejoiced with Spain, and Henry
+VII in England had a special <i>Te Deum</i> chanted in gratitude. While on
+one side is this tropical <i>vega</i> on the other is the glorious Sierra
+Nevada, clothed in perpetual snow. So close are the mountains that on
+certain days it seemed as if a short hour's walk could reach them,
+closer than the Jungfrau to Mürren. It is the most untarnished expanse
+of snow I have seen on any mountains. We often climbed the tower for the
+sunset, and one evening a genuine Alpine glow made the Sierras
+magnificent past description. "Ill-fated the man who lost all this!"
+Charles V exclaimed.</p>
+
+<p>There was a lesser view we grew attached to, that from the strip of
+garden called the <i>Adarves</i>, warm in the sun under the vine-covered
+bastions. It was laid out by the Emperor, and it fronts the snow range
+looming above the green mass of park trees. Almost every day we would
+bring books and sewing there&mdash;December, with mountains 12,000 feet high
+beside us!&mdash;and the gardener would set chairs for us at the stone table.
+Work and books would be dropped for long minutes to look out on those
+astonishingly noble mountains. If only the city below were well-ordered
+and clean like Avila or Segovia or<a name="page_270" id="page_270"></a> Seville, this would be the spot of
+all Spain for a long stay.</p>
+
+<p>We had to descend at times to the repulsive town for sightseeing. We
+hunted up the Church of San Gerónimo, where the Gran Capitán, that true
+Castilian knight alike renowned as general and diplomatist, Gonsalvo de
+Cordova, was buried. Once around his tomb seven hundred captured banners
+were ranged, but the church since it was sacked in the French invasion
+has been unused. It was appropriate that the Great Captain found burial
+in Granada, since it was here he trained the famous legions he was to
+lead to victory in Italy. Isabella on her deathbed listened with
+thrilled interest to the news of Gonsalvo's exploits at Naples. Another
+day, to see the view of the Sierras from the Church of San Nicolás, we
+climbed the Albaicín quarter, so squalid and poverty-stricken that the
+very sheets hung out to dry were a fretwork of patches, and the smells
+of goats and pigs were awful. A swarm of deformed beggars gathered round
+us, and I must confess to driving them off indignantly. Then as we
+descended the hill, down the twisting oriental passages, I was
+reproached by a little episode that showed a charity wider than
+mine&mdash;not good utilitarian ethics perhaps, but good early
+Christianity&mdash;a woman, poorest of the poor, at a turning of the lane was
+giving her<a name="page_271" id="page_271"></a> mite to one more stricken in misery. Is it any wonder Spain
+can win affection with her good and her evil lying close beside each
+other in a grand primitive way? Whenever I joined her detractors and
+abused her, within the hour she would offer some silent rebuke.</p>
+
+<p>Still another walk was the beautiful one along the Darro, then up the
+steep hill between the Generalife and the Alhambra. In that deserted
+lane one morning as I was passing alone, suddenly the gypsy king stepped
+out, a startling image of brutal, manly beauty, with his blue-black hair
+topped by a peaked hat. He approached insolently, with a glance of
+contemptuous, piercing boldness, struck an attitude, and holding out a
+package, commanded: "Buy my photograph." With beating heart I hurried
+by, to turn into the safe Alhambra enclosure with a tremor of relief.</p>
+
+<p>The Cathedral of Granada is a pretentious Greco-Roman building, good of
+its kind, but I do not like that kind. Out of it leads the Royal Chapel,
+where "<i>los muy altos, católicos, y muy poderosos Señores Don Ferdinando
+y Doña Isabel</i>" lie buried with their unfortunate daughter, Juana la
+Loca, and her Hapsburg husband. These two elaborate Renaissance tombs,
+the wood carved <i>retablo</i> and a notably fine <i>reja</i>, make this <i>Capilla
+Real</i> a unique spot.<a name="page_272" id="page_272"></a> Isabella the queen left a last testament that
+breathes the fine sincerity of her whole life: "I order that my body be
+interred in the Alhambra of Granada in a tomb which will lie on the
+ground and can be brushed with feet, that my name be cut on a single
+simple stone. But if the king, my lord, choose a sepulchre in any other
+part of our kingdom, I wish my body to be exhumed and buried by his
+side, so that the union of our bodies in the tomb, may signify the union
+of our hearts in life, as I hope that God in his infinite mercy may
+permit that our souls be united in heaven." It seems as if a king whose
+life-long mate had been an Isabella of Castile might have had more
+dignity of soul than to give her a trivial successor. When Ximenez heard
+of her death, sternly-repressed man of intellect though he was, he burst
+into lamentation. "Never," he exclaimed, "will the world again behold a
+queen, with such greatness of soul, such purity of heart, with such
+ardent piety and such zeal for justice!" And the Cardinal had known her
+in the undisguised intimacy of the Confessional and stood side by side
+with her through years of difficult state guidance. The astute Italian
+scholar, Peter Martyr, who lived at her court, said that at the end of
+the fifteenth century Isabella had made Spain the most orderly country
+in Europe, and another foreign scholar, Erasmus, tells us that under
+her, letters and<a name="page_273" id="page_273"></a> liberal studies had reached so high a state that Spain
+served as a model to the cultivated nations.</p>
+
+<p>From one end of her land to the other this incomparable woman has left
+her mark; at Valladolid the remembrance of her marriage; Segovia whence
+she started out to claim her kingdom; at Burgos the tomb of her parents;
+Salamanca where her son was educated, and whose library façade is in her
+grandiose style; Avila where this only son lies buried; Santiago where
+her hospice still harbors the needy; Seville where she gave audience in
+the Alcázar; her refuge for the insane here in Granada;&mdash;hardly a city
+that she did not visit and endow:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"If thy rare qualities, sweet gentleness,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Thy meekness saint-like, wife-like government<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Obeying in commanding, and thy parts<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Sovereign and pious, else could speak thee out<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The Queen of earthly queens."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><a name="page_274" id="page_274"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="VIGNETTES_OF_SEVILLE" id="VIGNETTES_OF_SEVILLE"></a>VIGNETTES OF SEVILLE</h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i3">"Mi vida está pendiente<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Solo en un hilo,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Y el hilo está en tu mano, dueño querido.<br /></span>
+<span class="i6">Mira y repara,<br /></span>
+<span class="i3">Que si el hilo se rompe<br /></span>
+<span class="i6">Mi vida acaba."<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">C<small>ANTAR</small> A<small>NDALUZ</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"El secreto de la vida consiste en nacer todas las mañanas."&mdash;R<small>AMÓN</small>
+C<small>AMPOAMOR</small>.</p></div>
+
+<p class="nind">T<small>HE</small> outburst of spring in Seville is something unforgettable. With roses
+in bloom during December and January, the winter was like the summer of
+some places, and so we realized with surprise during February that a
+genuine spring was beginning. The bushes and hedges put on fresh coats
+of green, and barely a month after the trees had been stripped of their
+myriad oranges, the same trees were covered with white blossoms. To sit
+beside the lake in the park on a sunny March morning seemed like being
+in an ideal scene of the theater; hard, white pathways wound in every
+direction between miles of rose hedges; an avenue of vivid Judas trees
+led to a<a name="page_275" id="page_275"></a> blue and white tiled Laiterie, where society came each morning
+to drink a hygienic glass of milk, and the graceful girls played
+<i>diavolo</i> with young officers; the groves of orange trees filled the air
+with an almost overpowering scent; children threw crumbs to the ducks in
+the pond; high up in the palm trees they were doing the parks' spring
+cleaning by cutting away the spent leaves.</p>
+
+<p>With such a winter climate it is strange that Seville was deserted by
+foreigners till the Easter rush. During the four months of our stay we
+had no need of fires, and sometimes there were days so warm that we did
+not start for the customary constitutional till toward evening. Every
+single day of the winter we took a walk in the same direction,&mdash;to the
+<i>Delicias</i> parks. Such monotony at first seemed a very limited pleasure,
+but before the winter ended we had grown to be such true Sevillians that
+we liked the placid regularity, and whenever we went further afield the
+roads were so abominably kept that we were glad to return to the shady
+fragrance of the park. We gradually learned to sit on the benches with
+the contented indolence of the southerner, watching the carriages roll
+by, family coaches a bit antiquated, the women well-dressed but not with
+the Madrileña's elegance. As the same people passed day after day, we
+soon had favorites among them. One young girl, like a rose in her<a name="page_276" id="page_276"></a> bloom
+of quick blushes, was having the golden hour of her life; all winter we
+watched her in the <i>Delicias</i>, at the theater, in church, and she never
+appeared without her cavalier somewhere in sight: a man in love here,
+like a man at his prayers, has no false pride to disguise his devotion.
+His carriage openly pursued hers in the park, the coachman an eager
+abettor of the romance. They would often alight, and while her mother
+and small sister loitered far behind, the happy <i>novios</i> were allowed to
+ramble side by side through the lovely paths. It seemed to us that we
+were no sooner settled in some retired nook of the pleasure grounds than
+these two sympathetic young people would come strolling past, and her
+sudden blush in recognition of the two strangers whose interest she
+felt, was very charming to see,&mdash;so too thought the young man at her
+side, for he always paced with his head bent irresistibly to hers. Life
+can offer worse fates than to be in love in the springtime, under
+Seville's flowering trees.</p>
+
+<p>This happy starting with romance has much to do with the contented
+marriages of the race: here, as I said before, is little of the
+pernicious "dot" system of France and Italy; good looks and attractive
+personal qualities win a husband. Spanish women make excellent wives,
+their first fire and passion turning to self-abnegation.<a name="page_277" id="page_277"></a> They are
+spared the ignoble competition that luxury brings; except in Madrid and
+among a small set in a couple more of the big cities, most Spanish
+ladies dress with extreme simplicity in black; the mantilla having more
+or less equalized conditions. It is still the custom for a mother and
+her daughters to go to church before eight every morning; often I saw
+them returning as I sat drinking my coffee on the hotel balcony. For
+church they wear the black veil that so much better becomes them than
+the big hats donned for the afternoon drive. Strangers are inclined to
+take for granted the idleness of women's lives in a city like Seville. I
+had slight opportunity of judging for myself. From a friend, however,
+who happened to have letters of introduction to a Sevillian whom she
+thought a mere social butterfly after seeing her drive by idly every
+afternoon, I learned that being taken into the intimacy of this pretty,
+fashionable woman, it appeared that she rose before seven every day and
+had never once missed giving each of her four children his morning bath.</p>
+
+<p>When we occasionally lingered late in the <i>Delicias</i> at noon, we would
+see the <i>cigarreras</i> from the great tobacco factory come out to spend
+their siesta. The proverbial beauty of these girls is much exaggerated,
+but the fresh flower in the hair worn by every woman of the people, old<a name="page_278" id="page_278"></a>
+and young alike, gives a decided charm. Sometimes they would dance
+together under the trees, just for the mere pleasure of motion, and sing
+the passionate <i>coplas</i> of the province, of the very essence of a
+people, impossible to translate:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Nor with you nor without you<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">My sorrows have end,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">For with you, you kill me,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And without you, I die."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Or this other, a <i>majo</i> to his chosen one:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Take, little one, this orange<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">From my orchard grove apart,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Be careful lest you use a knife<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">For inside is my heart."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The <i>majo</i> of Andalusia is the peasant dandy of Spain, and truly he is
+superb. As he gallops in from the country on his proud-necked stocky
+Andalusian horse&mdash;by instinct he knows how to sit a horse&mdash;or when he
+walks by jauntily in his short bolero jacket, with the springing gait of
+youth and dominating manhood, a duchess must look at him with
+admiration. The city loafer of Seville is a miserable specimen, and his
+insolence on the street is a constant outrage, but the country
+<i>labrador</i> does much to redeem him. One day we walked back across the
+fields from Italica, and passed many of these self-respecting peasants
+who gave us the proud, courteous salute<a name="page_279" id="page_279"></a> of the north, but no sooner
+were we within the city limits than began the bold staring, the jostling
+and remarks peculiar to Seville alone.</p>
+
+<p>All classes and conditions are met with in the park. Once a week the
+black soutanes and red shoulder scarfs of the seminarists of San Telmo
+give an added note of color. One of the lads, happening to know a
+Spanish acquaintance of ours, often stopped to chat. He told us details
+of their life, that at Easter and for the summer each returned in
+secular dress to his family, and if, during his years of preparation, he
+found he was not suited to the priesthood, he was free to leave at any
+time. Thus this lad had entered with ten others, of whom only three
+remained. "Soon only two, I fear," he added, with his clever mundain
+smile. "They tell me I'm too fond of society." Yet I have seen English
+ladies, true to their Invincible Armada traditions, shake their heads in
+pity when the seminarists passed, and sigh: "Poor young prisoners!"</p>
+
+<p>We made other acquaintances in the placid Seville parks; the venders of
+peanut candy, of the delicious sugar wafers for which you gamble on a
+revolving machine, above all our <i>Agua! Agua!</i> friend. This last would
+polish the glass with an agile turn of the wrist, then bend slightly and
+from his shoulder pour down the crystal stream with undeviating aim. No
+people on<a name="page_280" id="page_280"></a> earth drink water like the Spanish; it is a national love. A
+tot of four will stand spellbound before the fat dolphin of a park
+fountain, calling in beatific ecstasy, "<i>Hay agua!</i>"</p>
+
+<p>Though the <i>Delicias</i> is the favorite haunt, one can while away an
+afternoon in the garden of the Alcázar, on its pretty tiled seats. When
+we went through the Moorish palace, its restorations seemed so gaudily
+done that again I felt the sensation that this was trumpery. As at the
+Alhambra the fact of its medium being plaster, not enduring stone,
+spoils Moorish art for me. Some evenings for the sunset we climbed the
+Giralda, the only height from which a view over the fertile country can
+be got, for Seville's great drawback is its flatness; there is not one
+high spot for loitering at the close of day as in most Italian towns.
+From this cathedral tower, the view down on the white roofs of the city
+holds one spellbound; groves of palms show the parks, neat terrace
+gardens on the tops of the houses, and not a vestige of a street. No
+wonder, for the passages called streets are barely wide enough for three
+to walk abreast, and they twist and bend in true oriental fashion. We
+used to turn in behind the Alcázar, and wander hap-hazard, past
+Murillo's house, round and about north of that chief thoroughfare, the
+<i>Sierpes</i>. For surprises and romance this town has no<a name="page_281" id="page_281"></a> equal. Tucked
+away in the narrow lanes is patio after patio, not, like those of
+Cordova, merely spotless and tranquil, but imposing with white marble
+columns and pavements, for Italica, nearby, an obliterated city that
+lays claim to three of Rome's emperors, Trajan, Hadrian, and Theodosius,
+was stripped to adorn the younger Seville. The exterior of the houses is
+insignificant, just two or three stories of plain plaster walls, all
+beauty being kept for the inside, for the patio, with its central
+fountain and walls of colored tiles. We used often to pause at the open
+grille to gaze in with delight, agreeing with the old German proverb,
+"Whom God loves has a house in Seville." They say that in summer-time
+the family moves down from the upper story to live around the patio,
+over which an awning is stretched, and every evening animated
+<i>tertulias</i> are held there. A June walk at night in these lanes must be
+paradise: "<i>Quien no ha visto á Sevilla, no ha visto á maravilla</i>."</p>
+
+<p>All over the city are small churches that antedate the Cathedral, with
+noticeable twelfth century portals, timber roofs, and often a Moorish
+tower. The best are Omnium Sanctorum and San Marcos: and a lovely bit to
+sketch is the façade of Santa Paula with its Italian faience decoration.
+The peaceful patio of the chief Hospital&mdash;a church in the center&mdash;must
+be a<a name="page_282" id="page_282"></a> nook of repose loved by the convalescent. I could not see that the
+ill or aged suffered in Spain, despite the general abuse of her
+institutions. What is it about Spanish ways that makes most Englishmen
+so pessimistic over her? It seems to me that an Englishman should be
+sympathetic here, for so many of his traits he has in common with the
+Spaniard, such as sincerity, independence, loyalty to national ideals,
+to their rulers and creed. A prominent London publisher, in a new series
+of travel books, has lately reprinted Richard Ford's "Wanderings in
+Spain," thereby perpetrating a grave injustice, for in this book is
+gathered, with no sense of proportion, the abuse expurgated (chiefly
+because of its length) from his "Murray's Hand-book of Spain." Ford
+visited Spain when she was torn by the disorders of civil war, after
+three centuries of ill-government. A sad picture of England could be
+made by the foreign visitors who happened to witness the Lord George
+Gordon riots or the industrial agitations of the Midlands, or who
+visited the poorhouses, schools, and prisons described by Dickens and
+Charles Reade, yet who would maintain that such a picture was true as a
+whole, or print such a book to represent England to-day? Why must a
+different justice be meted out to Spain? Ford could be enthusiastic over
+the Castilian peasants' manhood, over the<a name="page_283" id="page_283"></a> security of life and purse
+throughout the northern provinces, and the gentle kindness of the
+country women, the hospitality of whose kitchens he sought, but when it
+comes to the national religion he fills his pages with false statements.
+"One never pelts a tree unless it has fruit on it," a Spaniard will say
+as he shrugs his shoulders.</p>
+
+<p>There is no doubt that the travelers in Spain then as well as the
+travelers of to-day see many things that have cause to distress them,
+but it should never be forgotten that in cities like Seville, the
+disease and vice which are kept out of sight in a distant slum in
+northern towns, are here right in the open eye. The poorest here live in
+the same block with the rich, a juxtaposition that may lead the outsider
+to see only the evil of a place, but for the native has the happier
+result of a more human primitive relationship between the classes than
+in most countries: poverty has never been looked on as pitiable in
+Spain: haughtiness and snobbishness are almost unknown here.<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a></p>
+
+<p>I must also add, to be quite honest, that, often, the impudence of the
+Sevillian street loafer and the exasperating pursuance of the beggar
+children, made me break out in Invincible Armada abuse myself; then some
+slight episode would occur to reprove me. One day we paused<a name="page_284" id="page_284"></a> to watch a
+very ugly little girl of five nurse her wounded dog. She was pity
+incarnate, she had rolled it in her poor shawl and rocked it backward
+and forward. When she gently touched the bandaged paw tears came to her
+eyes. We often passed her during the winter, and feeling our sympathy,
+unconscious of its first cause, the little tot would wait shyly till we
+had gone by, then dash after us to thrust into our hands two tiny
+bunches of orange blossoms or violets, and then tear away in confusion,
+refusing to be thanked. That she so ugly and poor had won two friends
+intoxicated her warm little heart, and she regularly prepared her
+offerings of answering affection, to have ready when the strangers
+passed: every characteristic of this untrained child of the street was
+admirable. Another time a stationer sent his young apprentice of
+fourteen to show us the way to a book-binder's. We offered the boy the
+usual fee, when he flung back his head proudly with a flush; his name
+was Emilio Teruel y Nobile, and the high-minded young descendant of
+Aragonese or Castilian blood bore it worthily. Having shown us the shop
+we sought, and realizing that we now recognized him as an equal, he made
+his farewell with a poise and reserved grace that were splendid. Later
+we occasionally passed Emilio, and the equality of the greetings
+exchanged, not<a name="page_285" id="page_285"></a> the slightest presumption on his part, is a thing only
+to be found in <i>caballero</i> Spain.</p>
+
+<p>To follow the church feasts that so diversify and brighten the year for
+these southern countries, also helps one to see them more justly. On the
+19th of March, St. Joseph's Day, a large crowd filled the Cathedral to
+listen to a sermon, almost the best I have ever heard, wherein the
+sanctity of the family and the dignity of labor were held up as needed
+models in the world to-day. Before the lighted altar of St. Joseph I
+noticed a magnificent looking hidalgo, <i>muy hijo de algo y de limpia
+sangre</i>, with three equally grandly built young sons beside him. Such
+men had never been raised amid city temptations. The line of the four
+profiles was so similar it was striking. When they rose from prayer, the
+self-forgetful prayer of the Spaniard with bowed head and closed eyes,
+the lads pressed about the father they revered, they laid their hands
+lovingly on his shoulder, the youngest stroked his back as he talked to
+him; two of the group were probably named José, and the father had come
+in from a country town to pass his saint's day with his boys at the
+University. All over the city, cakes and presents were carried openly,
+for everyone named Joseph (and the Pepes are legion) was keeping open
+house, and his friends were pouring in to offer congratulations.<a name="page_286" id="page_286"></a></p>
+
+<p>In Spain moving scenes are witnessed when the Viaticum is brought to the
+dying: the inmates of the house go to the church to escort the priest
+back in procession, the sacristan gives each a lighted candle, then at
+the door on their return, the servants kneel to receive "<i>el Señor, su
+Majestad</i>." Sir William Stirling-Maxwell has told of a duchess in
+Madrid, returning from a ball past midnight, that when a priest passed
+carrying the sacrament to the dying, she resigned her carriage to him
+and returned home on foot. It is said that if in a theater the tinkle of
+a passing bell is heard, actors and audience fall on their knees.</p>
+
+<p>In Seville, in spite of there being none of the mild festivities the
+foreigner finds in Rome or Florence&mdash;not a single tea party!&mdash;we never
+had time to be bored. No sooner were the celebrations for December 8th
+over than the Christmas <i>fiestas</i> began. Flocks of turkeys were driven
+through the streets and sold from door to door, and it was comical to
+see one of the awkward creatures step stiffly into the corridor leading
+to a patio, gravely crane his neck about to observe the romantic
+white-marble propriety within the gate, and his stupefaction when the
+iron <i>reja</i> opened to him with too warm a welcome, alas! In the shop
+windows were exposed all sorts of useful gifts, silver-necked flagons
+full of yellow<a name="page_287" id="page_287"></a> oil, and ornate boxes of cakes. The Midnight Mass on
+Christmas Eve was very solemn under the lofty piers of the Cathedral.
+The people gathered there seemed to be meditating on the mystery they
+commemorated, and at the words of the Gospel, "Et Verbum caro factum
+est," all fell spontaneously to their knees.</p>
+
+<p>Not long after the New Year, the King and Queen, to escape the icy winds
+of Madrid, came to pass a month in the sun-warmed Alcázar. It was Doña
+Victoria's first visit to Seville, so the city made it an occasion;
+triumphal arches were put up across the streets, the fences of the parks
+were painted crimson and gold, there was a great clipping of trees and
+repairing of roads,&mdash;a bit late this last (but truly Andalusian) for the
+royal carriages had to grind down the scattered stones,&mdash;also, the
+private houses put on new coats of whitewash. Platforms for seats were
+built along the route from the station to the Alcázar. We hired chairs
+on the steps of the Lonja opposite the Cathedral, as it did not seem
+likely that the old custom of going direct to the church to sing a <i>Te
+Deum</i> of thanksgiving would be set aside. We were in place early and
+watched the animated crowds passing,&mdash;there was no pushing or crowding.
+Deputaries in gold lace and medals dashed by; the balconies on all
+sides, hung<a name="page_288" id="page_288"></a> with the national colors, were filled with pretty women.
+The clamor of the Giralda bells told the waiting people the train had
+arrived; then, as the royal carriage passed, Doña Victoria was given an
+enthusiastic reception: her bright golden hair and brilliant complexion
+won cries of "<i>Bonita</i>!" "<i>Simpática</i>!" "<i>Guapa</i>!" Before the cigar
+factory, where its five thousand employees were grouped, a band of the
+handsomest <i>cigarreras</i>, in red and yellow silk shawls, stepped forward
+to present the Queen with a fan made of flowers, on whose floating
+ribbon was painted a genuine Andalusian welcome:</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Tienes el mismo nombre</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">Que la Patrona,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Tienes 'ange' en la cara,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">Tienes corona,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">Dios te bendiga!</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Eres la más hermosa</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Que entró en Sevilla."</span></div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Thou hast the same name</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">As our patroness,<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a></span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Thou hast the face of an angel,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">Thou art a queen,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">May God bless thee,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">The fairest that has come to Seville!"</span><br />
+</div>
+
+<p>The loud exclamations of delight in the robust health of the little
+Prince of Asturias pleased the Queen, and as she passed through the
+cheering mass of people, she made very gracefully the foreign gesture of
+greeting, the fingers bent back rapidly on the palm. As the night
+journey had tired her, the doctors ordered her immediate entrance into
+the Alcázar, postponing the <i>Te Deum</i> till the afternoon; and Seville,
+who clings<a name="page_289" id="page_289"></a> tenaciouly to old customs, was distinctly displeased.</p>
+
+<p>The group that stood on the Cathedral steps later in the day was superb.
+There was the Archbishop in cope and miter, with his silver crozier, the
+canons in purple robes, the acolytes bearing the historic crosses
+carried on festivals, and all the chief citizens of the town. For just
+this occasion the huge western doors were thrown open, giving a new
+aspect to the nave; through this door the King is the only one
+privileged to pass, but on this her <i>first</i> entrance, the Queen too. The
+Archbishop on first coming to his church and when carried out to his
+burial passes under this portal. The King and Queen, led by the
+Archbishop, now walked up the nave, chanting <i>Te Deum laudamus</i>, and
+before leaving they went to kneel in the Royal Chapel where, before the
+High Altar, lies King Ferdinand the Saint who conquered Seville in 1248,
+after five hundred years of Moorish rule. Here on November 23d,
+anniversary of his entrance to the city, a Military Mass is said, and
+the colors are lowered as the garrison files past. To a Sevillian that
+day of 1248 is as alive as the Battle of Lexington to a New Englander.</p>
+
+<p>This being a first visit, some brisk sightseeing was done. They
+automobiled out to Italica to see the Roman amphitheater there; and the
+day<a name="page_290" id="page_290"></a> after her arrival Doña Victoria redeemed the good-will of the
+Sevillians by driving, in black mantilla, to visit a church in a poor
+part of the city where is an altar to Our Lady of Hope, dear to
+expectant mothers. In the Lonja, where the Indian archives are kept, Don
+Alfonso pored over the maps of Mexico and the autographs of Cortés and
+Pizarro; in the <i>Museo</i>, the Queen again touched the sentiment of the
+Spanish women by preferring Murillo's realistic "Adoration of the
+Shepherds." The Duke of Medinaceli got up some splendid provincial
+dances and tableaux in his Mudéjar <i>Casa de Pilatos</i>, one of the show
+places of the town. We happened to meet the pretty peasant girls who had
+taken part returning home, singing and waving to the crowd, like birds
+of paradise, in their rose and lemon silk shawls. There seemed to be a
+congenial companionship between the young royal people. They were at
+ease together. The King, extremely fragile-looking, has a thin Hapsburg
+face so eminently sympathetic that sometimes when he would give an
+affectionate grin at his applauding subjects he made one rather wish to
+be a Spaniard one's self. With the irresistible impulses of youth he
+would sally out from the Alcázar to explore the city on foot, like any
+other happy, free mortal, but sooner or later the cry "<i>El Rey!</i>" would
+gather a crowd and force him<a name="page_291" id="page_291"></a> back to his state. One day he had to jump
+into a fiacre to escape the crush, and it was very jolly to see the
+descendant of the severe Philip II, of the inflated, pompous Bourbons,
+dashing through Seville, laughing at the good sport. We often met him
+riding back from Toblada in the late afternoon from polo, and it
+certainly appeared as if the affection of his countrymen went with him.
+I should say few kings are loved as is young Alfonso XIII, and Seville
+especially prides herself on being <i>muy leal</i>. Did not Alfonso <i>el
+Sabio</i> (tenth of the name, as this Alfonso is the thirteenth) give the
+city the famous <i>nodo</i>, seen everywhere as the town crest, for just this
+trait of loyalty six centuries ago? So several times a day an eager
+crowd gathered to watch the King pass, or to cheer for the rosy little
+Prince of Asturias who drove out with his titled governess and two
+nurses,&mdash;one of severe English propriety, the other a romantic Spanish
+peasant&mdash;behind four big mules decked with Andalusian red trappings and
+bells. A whole series of fêtes were preparing when the tragic
+assassination of the King of Portugal and his eldest son at Lisbon put a
+stop to the rejoicing. The sensation in Seville was enormous, as the
+Portuguese Queen had brought her two sons the year before to follow the
+services of Holy Week here, and her mother, the Countess of<a name="page_292" id="page_292"></a> Paris,
+lives in an estate near the city. Don Alfonso had just gone for a week's
+big-game hunting to the Granada mountains, when he hurried back to take
+part in the funeral service held in Madrid at the same hour as that in
+Lisbon. On his return to Seville his changed appearance showed what a
+shock the tragedy had been; not relationship alone but friendship united
+him to Portugal.</p>
+
+<p>Before the Royal visit ended there was a grand review of the troops in
+the park, where Don Alfonso wore a new uniform, that of the Hussars of
+Pavia, in commemoration of the great victory of Charles V in Italy four
+centuries before. Audience was given the envoys from the new King of
+Sweden in the Ambassador's hall of the Alcázar, which it was said had
+not been so used since Isabella's day. A mild form of carnival was
+followed by Ash Wednesday, when the King and Queen and court attended
+the services in the <i>Capilla Real</i> of the Cathedral, before St.
+Ferdinand's silver tomb. As they passed out between the dense mass of
+people, my heart sprang to my mouth when I saw a man struggling to reach
+the King,&mdash;fortunately only a humble petitioner, but the Lisbon
+assassinations had filled everyone with terror. The royal visit over,
+came Holy Week, but that and the dancing of the <i>seises</i> merit some
+pages to themselves.<a name="page_293" id="page_293"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="A_CHURCH_FEAST_IN_SEVILLE" id="A_CHURCH_FEAST_IN_SEVILLE"></a>A CHURCH FEAST IN SEVILLE</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"I have loved, O Lord, the beauty of thy house; and the place where
+thy glory dwelleth."&mdash;P<small>SALMS</small> <small>XXV</small>, 8.</p></div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"When after many conquerors came Christ<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The only conqueror of Spain indeed,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Not Bethlehem nor Golgotha sufficed<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">To show him forth, but every shrine must bleed,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And every shepherd in his watches heed<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The angels' matins sung at heaven's gate.<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Nor seemed the Virgin Mary wholly freed<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">From taint of ill if born in frail estate,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">But shone the seraph's queen and soar'd immaculate."<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">G<small>EORGE</small> S<small>ANTAYANA</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">T<small>HE</small> eighth of December is a great day in Spain, but more especially in
+Seville where they look on the Immaculate Conception as their special
+feast, symbolized, hundreds of years before the dogma was defined, by
+their fellow townsman Murillo, in the seraphic purity of his
+<i>Concepción</i>. The celebration began on the day preceding the eighth with
+an early-morning peal of bells that lasted half an hour, and was
+frequently repeated during the day. Nothing can express the mad,
+exultant peal of Spanish bells: one strong metallic dong backward and
+forward,&mdash;or rather<a name="page_294" id="page_294"></a> over and over, for the bells are balanced with
+weights and make the complete circle when in motion,&mdash;with a running
+carillon of more musical minor notes. We mounted to a roof terrace to
+watch the ringers in the Giralda, who in reckless enjoyment, let the
+rope of the revolving bell toss them aloft, a perilous feat that has led
+to fatal accidents, but high up in that Moorish tower, above the palm
+and orange-growing city, a triumphant tumult filling the air, it must be
+easy to lose one's balance of common-sense.</p>
+
+<p>Toward evening of the <i>Víspera de la Pureza</i>, every one placed lights
+along the balconies, which were draped with blue and white, those of the
+Archbishop's palace, under the Giralda, being hung in red and yellow,
+the national colors. A military band played in one of the smaller
+plazas, and the Seville girls flocked out in full enjoyment, each with
+the customary rose or bright ribbon in her hair. The people of the upper
+classes entertained their friends in open booths around the square.</p>
+
+<p>Then on the eighth itself, the bells fairly out-did themselves in
+tumultuous clamor, calling all to the Cathedral, that haunting soul of
+the city, <i>La Grandeza</i>, the noble, the solemn, its special title.
+Sevillians love to boast that it is bigger than St. Peters in Rome and
+cite its 15,642<a name="page_295" id="page_295"></a> square meters of ground area to St. Peter's 15,160. It
+is truly one of the most imposing churches in the world; vast and dim,
+the lofty Gothic piers make double aisles as they rise in springing
+arches to the roof. I have seen tourists enter laughing and chatting,
+but before they take ten steps instinctively their voices are lowered
+and they walk reverently with half-bowed heads. This serious temple to
+God is worthy of the men of big ideas who decided "to construct a church
+such and so good it never should have its equal," to accomplish which
+vow the canons sacrificed their personal revenues, and for a century the
+Cathedral Chapter ate in common.<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a></p>
+
+<p>December eighth I was in place early, in time to see each lady carry in
+her own folding chair and set it up in the matted space between the
+altar and choir: surely it is in church that the Spanish woman is at her
+best, in her severe black gown, with her veil draped over a high hair
+comb and gathered gracefully about the shoulders and waist. When she
+kneels she makes a sign of the cross, which has national additions.
+After the usual sign from forehead to breast, left shoulder to right,
+she carries her thumb crossed over her first finger to her lips. I am
+told this is a token<a name="page_296" id="page_296"></a> of fidelity to the faith of the cross, and is
+often a way by which Spaniards recognize their countrymen in foreign
+countries. And since Seville out-does Spain in most customs, here are
+still other additions. They precede the sign of the cross by making a
+small cross on the forehead, lips, and breast; and there are many who
+even precede <i>this</i> by a first regular sign of the cross, thus making
+two signs of the cross with the gospel symbol between. All this is done
+so rapidly that it takes several days of close observation to decipher
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Gradually the church filled for the great feast, until a solid mass of
+people knelt or stood in the transepts, covering every foot from which
+the High Altar could be seen; there was no crowding or impatience, for
+this was not for them a show, but their daily place of prayer. The
+onlooking tourist too often forgets this vital difference. In most cases
+he is ignorant of the meaning of church ritual; mental prayer,
+meditation on the feast celebrated, the unspeakable spirituality of the
+Mass are undivined by him; it is curiosity or æsthetic pleasure that
+usually brings him there. As I thought later during the Holy Week, it
+must be a soul weariness to sit during long hours, through ceremonies
+one cannot follow intelligently. On this festival, first there was a
+procession round the church to bless the various<a name="page_297" id="page_297"></a> altars dedicated to
+the Blessed Virgin ("For behold, from henceforth all generations shall
+call me blessed. For He that is mighty hath done to me great things."
+St. Luke i, 48-49). Over the first altar visited hung Luis de Vargas'
+celebrated picture of Adam and Eve, the <i>Generación</i>, painted in the
+sixteen century to symbolize to-day's doctrine. Before the procession
+walked officers in uniform, then groups of acolytes, bearing antique
+silver crosses and the six-foot silver poles that end in handsome candle
+shrines. Seville gentlemen in dress suits followed, and then the
+Archbishop in cope and miter, with canons, beneficiaries, and choristers
+in vestments rich in gold and embroidery. The long imposing train passed
+slowly round the outer aisle. To those who remained before the altar,
+the chanting of the procession came but faintly, so colossal is the
+church, though like all well-proportioned things it is only from effects
+such as this that one realizes its size. The solemn High Mass proceeded,
+now the deep magnificently male voice of the organs, now the delicate
+stringed instruments, with human voices, for the Spaniard fearlessly
+follows his impulses of worship and presses every talent into the
+service of the altar. Twenty laymen were grouped in the <i>coro</i> about a
+priest who led with his baton, and beside them stood the chorister lads
+who were to dance that afternoon before<a name="page_298" id="page_298"></a> the tabernacle, as David once
+danced before the Ark of the Covenant. Their mediæval dress, a
+singularly pleasing Russian blouse of blue and white, with white
+breeches and slippers, was worn with so unconscious a grace that they
+were a charming sight as they sang in clear childish treble.</p>
+
+<p>The altar, one blaze of light, was approached by twelve steps, up and
+down which the bishop and canons swept in their gorgeous robes. Below
+the steps stood twelve silver candlesticks higher than a man, and close
+by were displayed the priceless flagons and trays used on high feasts.
+Every accessory of Seville's Cathedral is on a vast scale; the <i>retablo</i>
+of carved scenes towers to a hundred feet; the gilded <i>rejas</i>, wrought
+by the monk of Salamanca in the same disregard for man's limitations in
+which the whole Cathedral was built, and whose dark fretwork enhances
+the brilliant scenes they enclose, all tell of an age of ardent faith
+when men gave of their best.<a name="page_299" id="page_299"></a></p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_seises_229_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_seises_229_sml.jpg" width="550" height="313" alt="Los Seises, Cathedral of Seville" title="Los Seises, Cathedral of Seville" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">Los Seises, Cathedral of Seville</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>The service over, the Archbishop passed to the sacristy which for this
+day was thrown open to the people, and they thronged in to kiss the
+episcopal ring, and to gaze at the Murillos and other masters. Then his
+vestments laid aside, the prelate, accompanied by a dense crowd, crossed
+the square to his palace, but before leaving the church, he paused by
+the chapel of Gonsalvo Núñez de Sepúlveda, who in 1654 left a fortune to
+the Cathedral that this Octave of the Immaculate Conception should be
+fitly celebrated. Even after the three-hour service some people lingered
+in the side chapels, and the choristers, in their picturesque costume,
+gathered in the <i>capilla mayor</i> of the partly deserted church to
+continue their songs of praise: not for outer effect alone had these
+hymns been taught them, but to glorify One unseen but all-seeing. The
+spirit of inner worship was not lost in its outward symbolization.</p>
+
+<p>During the Octave, the Blessed Sacrament was exposed, and unceasing were
+the offices of praise and song. In the late afternoon of each day came
+the dance of <i>los seises</i> before the Altar, perhaps one of the most
+poetic customs remaining in Christendom. The Archbishop, in red robes,
+again entered the chancel surrounded by the canons, and they all knelt,
+some here, some there, in unconsciously artistic groups,&mdash;the strong
+firm profiles like those of the donors in Italian pictures. Some knelt
+in meditation, others affectionately watched the dance of the lads; they
+too, as boys, may have been choristers. It is more a quiet rhythmic
+stepping to music than a dance, and all the while they sing in their
+clear, high voices. Twice the music stopped, and<a name="page_300" id="page_300"></a> for a few seconds the
+lads moved slowly to the sound of their own castanets. This unique
+custom commemorates the Christian's entry into the conquered Moslem town
+more than six hundred years ago, when the children are said to have
+danced and sung for joy. These twentieth century Christian lads, their
+part now over, passed up the steps of the altar into a small sacristy
+behind it; and the musicians continued a lovely concert of sacred music,
+a last half hour of peace and prayer that seemed like the benediction of
+the great darkened church on the bowed groups of worshipers.</p>
+
+<p>I came away from the Cathedral every evening with the feeling that there
+are many and various ways of praising God. Yet so much criticism has
+this Seville custom roused, that, a few hundred years ago, the Pope
+ordered its discontinuance, allowing the dance to go on only as long as
+the costumes then in use should last, but the people, who love their old
+usages, succeeded in evading the decision by successive patching of the
+suits. This is the story. Certainly the graceful costumes to-day show no
+tatters, and they are worn so carelessly that they make no suggestion of
+masquerade. For the many who crave a quieter form of worship, the grave
+cathedral services of Northern Spain may be more congenial, but when as
+many desire magnificence<a name="page_301" id="page_301"></a> and display, why should not they too be
+satisfied? The church allows for all tastes and temperaments, knowing
+man is not cast in one mold. The Puritan in her midst does not have to
+turn Dissenter; she has her Salvation Army&mdash;so I call the
+pilgrimage-going crowds; the ascetic fulfils the hard law of his nature
+side by side with the enjoyer of human affections and graces. Seville's
+feast, rich with old traditions, is appropriate in this southern city.
+To linger each evening in the vast church lighted only by solitary
+candles against each pier, to wander behind the kneeling groups
+listening to the soaring voices of man and violin, to pause beside a
+certain tomb in the south transept where four mammoth figures of bronze,
+ungainly on close view but in a half light majestic, bear on their
+shoulders a bier which holds the remains of Cristóbal Colón,&mdash;such hours
+of loitering quicken the imagination and leave behind them memories of
+beauty.<a name="page_302" id="page_302"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="HOLY_WEEK_IN_SEVILLE" id="HOLY_WEEK_IN_SEVILLE"></a>HOLY WEEK IN SEVILLE</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">"A time to weep, and a time to laugh. A time to mourn, and a time
+to dance."</p>
+
+<p class="r">E<small>CCLES</small>. iii, 4.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">A<small>N</small> overcrowded picture rises with the thought of Seville's <i>Semana
+Santa</i>,&mdash;glittering lights, statues laden with jewels, weird masked
+figures in <i>nazareno</i> costume marching to the sound of funeral dirges,
+cries of street vendors and children,&mdash;all is noise, movement, color, a
+true Andalusian scene. Spectacular effect is the first impression of the
+week, a gorgeous pageantry that suits the Sevillian's temperament but is
+not so congenial perhaps to the northerner, who would have the
+commemoration of his religion's solemn hour a more tranquil time of
+prayer.</p>
+
+<p>Happily there are other memories carried away as well as this chief one
+of noisy confusion. Never to be forgotten was the Cathedral echoing at
+midnight to the sound of Eslava's "Miserere" sung by hundreds of trained
+voices. Every inch of the vast church was packed. Men and women stood in
+silence, with upraised faces, as they listened to the music of the old
+canon who once sat in this choir. The lightest mocker would be<a name="page_303" id="page_303"></a> awed to
+silence under those soaring arches. For majesty, for a contagious
+religious emotion, the Cathedral of Seville at the time of its feasts is
+only to be rivaled by Santa Sophia during Ramazan, on that memorable
+Night of Power when eight thousand Mussulmans kneel prostrate under the
+floating circles of lamps. These two stand supreme; so different in the
+setting,&mdash;the one rich with color, an open blaze of light beneath the
+wide Byzantine dome, the other dim, mysterious Gothic,&mdash;they are alike
+in the genuine thrill of worship they give the onlooker of every creed.</p>
+
+<p>Familiar with her Cathedral in its every-day aspect, having seen the
+celebrations of December 8th, the Christmas Midnight Mass, Epiphany, Ash
+Wednesday, it was cruel to find its grand tranquillity violated during
+the Holy Week. It is the processions, called the <i>pasos</i>, that are the
+cause of the disorder. A <i>paso</i> is a huge platform, on which are placed
+carved statues representing scenes of the Passion. Each float is carried
+by some thirty men, and its weight must be enormous, for besides the
+statues there are silver candelabra, gold and silver vases, and usually
+a canopy of embroidered velvet upheld by silver poles. Could one but
+look on them as mere spectacular shows, they would be most picturesque
+pageants, but to dissociate them from religion is impossible. The custom
+is an ancient<a name="page_304" id="page_304"></a> one and is still prevalent in many towns of Spain,
+through happily, in the smaller places, its original purpose to edify
+and rouse the people to rememberance of the holy season, has not been
+lost sight of in extravagant display as at Seville.</p>
+
+<p>Each of Seville's numerous parishes has one or two of these <i>pasos</i>, and
+an unworthy rivalry exists between them as to which will make the best
+show. They are supposed to be scenes of the Passion, such as the
+Flagellation, Christ before Pilate, the Descent from the Cross, but for
+the most part they consist of single figures&mdash;a Crucifixion followed by
+a <i>Nuestra Señora de Dolores</i>, another Crucifixion followed by another
+single representation of Our Lady, and so on in monotonous sequence, a
+repetition that makes the spectator fix his attention, not on the scene
+represented but on details such as the embroidery of the robes, the
+display of rare jewels, the elaborate canopy. The <i>pasos</i> struck me as
+the result of that regrettable tendency in Spain, the accentuated
+devotion to a special shrine or statue. No doubt it arose in reaction
+against the Moorish enemy's hatred of images, but the patriotic tendency
+has been carried too far. It will ever misrepresent the Spaniard's
+innate Christian belief. As these processions blocked the city streets,
+one heard on every side, not alone from those of differing creed,
+exclamations of "Pomp!<a name="page_305" id="page_305"></a> Show! Childishness!" And the criticism was
+almost justified. Many strangers leave Seville confirmed in the wrong
+idea that its religion is an affair of tinsel and lights. Spain cares
+little what outsiders think of her, but here is a case in which she
+should consider the discredit that a degenerated custom brings on her
+religion; she should sacrifice an old tradition. Like the processions of
+Havana, the <i>pasos</i> should go. The northern Spaniard agrees with the
+stranger in his dislike of the noisy spectacles that so incongruously
+commemorate the saddest death-scene of the ages, and there are many
+Andalusians, too, who wish for their abolition. In fact, it is the
+rabble and the innkeepers who agitate in their favor; these last keep
+petitions for their foreign guests to sign, begging that the processions
+be continued. Seville need not fear she will lose prestige should she
+drop them, that the tourists will no longer flock to her each spring;
+she is only beginning to be known for having a winter climate surpassing
+that of Rome and Naples; <i>pasos</i> or not, visitors will inevitably
+increase.</p>
+
+<p>The objectionable processions began to march late in the afternoon of
+Palm Sunday, and it is hardly much of an exaggeration to say they went
+on marching night and day throughout the following week. They were so
+long that they took five or six hours to pass a given spot. Starting<a name="page_306" id="page_306"></a>
+back in the narrow streets of the town, they passed down the <i>Sierpes</i>
+which was lined with spectators' chairs, defiled before the City Hall,
+where the Mayor rose to salute each <i>paso</i> in turn, then went on to the
+Cathedral,&mdash;entering by a west door, crossing before the altar, and
+leaving by the door near the Archbishop's palace. With each <i>paso</i>
+marched the religious confraternity of its parish, a secular brotherhood
+of men belonging to all ranks, who are banded together for charitable
+work. The King belongs to one of these fraternities and when in Seville
+marches in line, but the year of our visit he was represented by the
+military governor of the province. The officers of the army also
+marched. Most of these brotherhoods wore Nazarene costume, in white,
+purple, or black, with the high-peaked head gear through which only the
+eyes showed. Some walked devoutly, others in disorder. Membership in
+religious brotherhoods is often hereditary, and it was touching to see a
+little child of four, in full regalia, marching with the grown men,
+planting his silver staff at each slow pace with the gravity of a
+majordomo. A band of music went with each fraternity, and the blare of
+brass instruments, the torches, the masked faces, make indeed a
+confused, wearying spectacle.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the onlookers hired chairs for the week<a name="page_307" id="page_307"></a> along the streets, on
+balconies, or in that most chosen spot, the square by the City Hall; the
+populace thronged to the Cathedral, where the procession could be seen
+free, and there the crowd was dense to suffocation, chiefly made up of
+the disorderly element from Triana. The chatter and movement made me
+ask, could this be a Spanish church, where irreverence is unknown?
+Everyone seemed oblivious of the Tenebræ in the <i>coro</i>. They buzzed and
+moved about in an unseemly scramble for seats, so that only faintest
+echoes of Jeremiah's gloriously intoned Lamentations could be heard. The
+sexton rose now and then from the noisy groups on the choir steps to
+extinguish one by one the candles on the big triangular candlestick, a
+noble object of bronze used only at this season. And I had looked
+forward for months to hearing, in this grand Gothic Cathedral, my
+favorite service of the church year, the solitary service that haunts
+one with its subtle beauty from one's childhood. The disappointment was
+keen, it gave just the final touch to my dislike of the <i>pasos</i>.</p>
+
+<p>There were times when I tried to be just. Seeing the men lift their hats
+respectfully as each group went by, the women cross themselves with
+tears in their eyes, the babies look on in awed wonder, I tried to drop
+prejudice and to see the spectacle as does a southern Spaniard: the
+noisy<a name="page_308" id="page_308"></a> scene is so associated with his earliest, tenderest memories that
+he cannot but look at it in a different way. One evening near me, a
+handsome young countryman,&mdash;moved out of all self-consciousness by the
+<i>Virgen santísima</i> he so loved, in her wonderful robe and jewels, under
+a canopy richer than any earthly queen's,&mdash;this gallant young <i>majo</i>
+stood forward suddenly from the crowd and, with his eyes fastened on the
+glittering mass, sang a <i>copla</i> of praise with the heart-piercing note
+of the folk-song. So faultlessly artistic a moment made me look
+leniently on the <i>pasos</i> for a time, warning me, "Lest while ye gather
+up the tares, ye root up also the wheat with them." But to be consistent
+in this home of untamed personalities is impossible! For soon a float of
+extravagant bad taste would go by; horses with tails of real hair;
+clumsy velvet robes hiding the excellent carving of the statues (and
+some of them are the work of the best sculptor of Seville, Montañés,
+whose portrait by Velasquez hangs in the Prado); worst of all the <i>Mater
+Dolorosa</i>, covered with inappropriate jewels, some willed her by former
+generations, others lent by rich Sevillian ladies of to-day, in her hand
+the lace handkerchief of a coquette: criticism would leap to full life
+again.</p>
+
+<p>That the <i>pasos</i> violated the quiet of the Cathedral, that they reeked
+of the baroque<a name="page_309" id="page_309"></a> period of bad art, these are not the only complaints
+against them. They turn all Seville into a picnic week. We began to ask
+ourselves if this noisy excitement commemorated a solemn time, what
+would the following week of the Fair be like? The Andalusian can hold
+revelry with zest and vigor for fourteen unbroken days. Easter week was
+to open with the Italian opera and the first bull-fight of the year;
+there were to be three days of horse and cattle show, followed by three
+days of the grand <i>Feria</i>, when the whole province pours into Seville,
+and the nights are one glare of fireworks; <i>maja</i> and <i>majo</i> are then
+out in all their finery, and the families of the upper classes live in
+open booths on the fair grounds, where they pay visits and dance the
+national dances in public with the easy democracy of true Spaniards.
+Much as we hoped to see this typical feast, it began to dawn on us early
+in the week that there were limits to endurance. The hurrying crowds,
+the blocking of the streets, the noise of vendors, of clashing music,
+made the fatigue indescribable. Sleep at night was out of the question,
+noisy Triana roamed the streets; brass bands would sound, and in nervous
+excitement one would spring to the balcony. The hotels were packed to an
+uncomfortable extent. By Good Friday all desire to stay over for the
+Fair week was extinguished; we were very close<a name="page_310" id="page_310"></a> to physical collapse.
+So, taking a night train, we slipped away from the turmoil to have a
+peaceful Easter Sunday in unspoiled Estremadura. There also they were
+having <i>pasos</i>, but <i>pasos</i> of such simple devotion, humble, and
+primitive, that one knelt with the crowd in prayer as they passed.</p>
+
+<p>Before this final, hasty desertion, however, I had dragged myself, worn
+out with a sleepless night, to the lengthy services in the Cathedral
+each morning. There, happily, was nothing to criticise. The Holy Week
+ceremonies customary to all Catholic Christendom, were carried through
+with dignity; only, since this was irrepressible Spain, there were some
+local additions, and most beautiful ones. Such was the waving of a huge
+flag, black, with a large red cross, like the banner of some military
+order, before the High Altar, while some special prayers were read; love
+of country and love of God seem so inextricably interwoven here. On Palm
+Sunday the Cathedral was filled with the stately white leaves, six and
+ten feet long, from the palm forest of Elche; each canon carried one and
+each verger; the priests and acolytes who served the Mass bore each his
+palm, and they waved and swayed around the altar in lovely symbolization
+of the Entry into Jerusalem twenty centuries before. Pictures like that
+never fade. A year<a name="page_311" id="page_311"></a> later in Palestine, it rose vividly before me, while
+driving out to Bethany, when we passed some hundreds of humble Russian
+pilgrims tramping back from the Dead Sea, each of whom bore a palm. For
+in very reality they were following the route of entry into the Holy
+City. Seville Cathedral on Palm Sunday morning was not unworthy to be
+grouped with that moving scene. The excessively long Gospel was chanted
+in the customary different keys by three canons, one standing in the
+Epistle pulpit, one in the Gospel, and the third on a rostrum erected
+between the two. Near me several Spaniards of the artisan class followed
+in Latin every word of the lengthy chanting. The tourists present who
+knew not what was read, fretted and moved incessantly. No intelligent
+person should attend a Holy Week in either Seville or Rome without a
+special book, picked up anywhere for a couple of francs, in which the
+services are given in Latin and English, or Latin and French. Without
+the liturgy to voice these ceremonies, they must be weary hours indeed.
+And yet of the hundreds of visitors on this Palm Sunday, literally, not
+one followed with a book, and many perhaps held themselves competent to
+criticise what they had seen.</p>
+
+<p>Expectant of the sensational, the tourists filled the great church on
+Holy Thursday morning,<a name="page_312" id="page_312"></a> when the white veil was withdrawn: it was done
+so swiftly, at the opportune words of the Gospel, that there was nothing
+spectacular about it. Two days later, at the moment in the Mass when
+every bell in the city bursts out in joyous acclamation of the
+Resurrection, the black veil was rent; that we missed seeing. Some days
+before Holy Week a towering temple of wood, white and gilt, a hundred
+feet high, had been erected in the nave over the tomb of Columbus' son.
+This pseudo-classic temple, completely out of touch with the Gothic
+church, was to serve as the repository of the Blessed Sacrament on Holy
+Thursday, and it was for the center of such shrines that the old
+silversmiths of Spain, the de Arfe family, made their priceless silver
+<i>monumentos</i>. Such repositories are customary in all Catholic lands on
+Thursday of Holy Week, for in the midst of sorrow, the Church celebrates
+the foundation of the Sacrament that has brought joy and solace to
+mankind. She commemorates the events of the week chronologically. Before
+the altars are dismantled for Good Friday, she typifies by lights and
+flowers, her gratitude for that passover supper in the upper room. It is
+a general Catholic custom to visit a number of these lighted shrines on
+Holy Thursday, and in Seville this usage leads to one of the charming
+things of the week, like an oasis of peace in the<a name="page_313" id="page_313"></a> midst of the arid
+<i>pasos</i>. Everyone pays these visits on foot. During two days not a
+carriage is allowed in the city, the King himself must walk. Their silk
+mantillas, black or white, draped high over their combs, wearing jewels
+and carrying flowers, the ladies of Seville went from church to church,
+to kneel in graceful groups around the exposed Host, and the men in
+frock coats and high hats stood in the rear, in simple attitudes of
+prayer: the Spaniard and the Mussulman are alike in their
+unconsciousness at their devotions. The next day all would wear deep
+mourning, but to-day is a feast of rejoicing. Each one goes in quiet
+composure, as if her mind dwelt on the hours of peace her communions had
+brought her. Again I felt the same impression that the Christmas
+midnight Mass had given me; that the imagination of this people was busy
+with the past event they were celebrating. Does not lack of
+comprehension of old usages often mean lack of the shaping power of the
+imagination?</p>
+
+<p>From one parish church to another I followed these fascinating women.
+Here was true Seville, not seen in the Cathedral's tourist crowd, nor
+under Parisian hats on the <i>Paseo</i>. Wandering through the network of
+streets north of the <i>Sierpes</i>, I paused to look into the spotless
+patios distant as they ever seem from the fret of life. A touch of
+summer was in the air; the marble<a name="page_314" id="page_314"></a> courtyards were decked with flowers,
+and one heard the notes of singing birds. Two dark-eyed ladies came out
+from a tranquil patio; they wore white mantillas in honor of their
+visits to the Blessed Sacrament. They set me dreaming of Seville in its
+summer aspect, when the skies are blue in the fragrant night. Nowhere on
+earth are women more alluring and essentially feminine, nowhere has man
+fashioned his house so fitly for charm and romance.</p>
+
+<p>By chance, on Holy Thursday, I stumbled on another local usage, full of
+the same racial flavor. Returning from the Cathedral, where, amid a
+throng of sight seers, the Archbishop had carried the Host to the
+lighted <i>monumento</i>, I happened to drop into the Church of the
+Magdalena. It was filled with its own parishioners, since most Spaniards
+leave the Cathedral services of this crowded week to the visitors. Near
+the door were seated three separate groups of ladies and young girls,
+belonging unmistakably to the aristocracy; each wore a black
+mantilla,<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> and in their tight-fitting black gowns and long white
+gloves, they were indescribably elegant. They were the ladies in waiting
+of the various altars, their duties to<a name="page_315" id="page_315"></a> tend them, and like the men's
+brotherhoods, to help in the charitable work of the parish. The
+Magdalena Church is dark, so on the table before these daughters of Eve
+stood a pair of high candlesticks, between which lay an open tray
+soliciting contributions for their special shrines or charities. Young
+beaux entered the church and as they passed the table, dropped a <i>duro</i>
+or a paper bill in the different trays, according as they felt devotion
+to such and such an altar, or to judge by the glances that passed
+between the givers and receivers, as they felt devotion to its fair
+caretaker. Unexpected scenes like this, unmentioned in the guide books,
+give to this city its allurement, enhanced doubly because the actors are
+so unconscious of their picturesqueness.</p>
+
+<p>And as unpleasant things fade away, leaving only the happier memories,
+two scenes stand out unforgettable in Seville's Holy Week: Eslava's
+"Miserere," echoing at midnight through the Cathedral whose name is
+fittingly the <i>Grandeza</i>, and that other picture, enchantingly
+Andalusian, the ladies in mantillas paying their silent visits to the
+Blessed Sacrament on Holy Thursday. The <i>pasos</i> fade to a blurred
+background of pomp and glitter.<a name="page_316" id="page_316"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="CADIZ" id="CADIZ"></a>CADIZ</h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Para que yo te olvidará<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Era menester que hubiera<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Otro mundo, y otro cielo,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Y otro Dios que dispusiera."<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">C<small>ANTAR</small> A<small>NDALUZ</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="ist">&mdash;"The sea tides tossing free,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And Spanish sailors with bearded lips,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And the witchery and beauty of the ships,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And the magic of the sea."<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">H. W. L<small>ONGFELLOW</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">I<small>N</small> the midst of the warm Seville winter the thought of sea breezes
+tempted us to Cadiz for a week. The hundred miles' run down there was
+through a charming corner of Andalusia, with orange groves, olive
+plantations, woods of stone pines, hedges of cactus, in the meadows
+herds of most royal bulls. It was the eighteenth of January, yet the
+fruit trees were in blossom, and over the streams floated a lovely
+white-flowering verdure. We passed Jerez, source of English sherry,
+where on our return to Seville we stopped some hours to see the bodegas
+and sample the native wine. As we neared the coast big pyramids of salt
+covered the marshes, telling of another<a name="page_317" id="page_317"></a> industry; in fact, every part
+of Andalusia which I saw was well cultivated, despite the guide book
+laments over its backwardness.</p>
+
+<p>Soon came whiffs of the sea air. The first view of Cadiz, set right out
+to sea, is very striking. Only a narrow strip of sand, eight miles long,
+connects it with the mainland, and as we skirted the coast, past San
+Fernando,&mdash;where there is a naval station and an astronomical
+observatory,&mdash;the compact, sturdy little city out in the Atlantic made a
+stunning picture; the sea so very blue, the town so dazzlingly white.</p>
+
+<p>And inside the treble line of walls and moats that defend its one
+land-entrance, the "silver dish," as its citizens love to call it, has
+as individual a character as its distant prospect. It is miraculously
+clean, its streets seem swept and scrubbed like a Dutch village. Down
+these narrow lanes you catch the gleam of the sea to east, to north, to
+west. When it rains, Seville turns into a muddy distress, but
+well-drained Cadiz grows more proper still in wet weather. The patio of
+the rest of Andalusia is not found here, for being confined to its ledge
+of shells, the town could not spread itself about, but had to build
+itself up in the air. On top of the high houses, whose vivid green
+balconies add to the general air of trig neatness, are <i>miradores</i>,
+small towers formerly built by the merchants as look-outs<a name="page_318" id="page_318"></a> from which
+they could spy their returning galleons. The view of Cadiz from a
+<i>mirador</i> is like nothing else ever seen: the clean whiteness of
+hundreds of roof terraces, the church towers of colored tiles and a host
+of other <i>miradores</i>, made it seem like a second city in itself,
+suggestive of the Orient; a strange city set in the blinding blue circle
+of the ocean.</p>
+
+<p>The town is almost surrounded by high sea walls, four miles of them, and
+on the Atlantic side the surf breaks in thundering eternity, throwing up
+spray twenty feet high. There is something splendidly plucky about
+Cadiz. One of the few spots in Europe forced to battle for her
+existence, with a devouring enemy at her door, she thrives and continues
+century after century. She is the oldest town in Spain, founded by
+Ph&oelig;nician mariners more than a thousand years before the Christian
+Era.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Ah when the crafty Tyrian came to Spain<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">To barter for her gold his motley wares,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Treading her beaches he forgot his gain,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The Semite became noble unawares."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Spain has influenced them all, all the strangers, the heterogeneous
+throng, that have gone to the making of the Spanish race. Ph&oelig;nician,
+Roman, Iberian, Goth, Jew, and Moor, she has imprinted on them all her
+own distinguishing mark, has<a name="page_319" id="page_319"></a> breathed into them her own intense soul.
+For this psychological reason it is true to say that Seneca was a
+Spaniard, that the wonderful Jew Maimonides and the Moor Averroës, and
+the Gothic bishop, Isidoro, Doctor of the Church were all of them
+Spaniards. The Catalan, Ramón Lull rang out the national note with no
+uncertain sound, mystic hermit and active missionary. And with the
+centuries "christened in blood and schooled in sacrifice," the spirit
+grew more convincingly apparent: Domingo de Guzmán, Francisco Ximenez,
+Gonsalvo de Córdova, Luis de León, Iñigo de Loyola are very brothers
+with a like high fealty that tells what majestic mother nurtured them on
+her battlefield of ages.</p>
+
+<p>Cadiz, the oldest spot in Spain, has known each of the conquering races
+in turn. She was four hundred years old when Rome was founded. She has
+had tremendous ups and downs of fortune; at her height during the age of
+the Cæsars, who saw her importance as key to Andalusia, then with the
+fall of Rome dropped into insignificance, her name almost forgotten. She
+rose again with the discovery of the New World, whose ships of treasure
+anchored off her ramparts. A strange outlook on the passing of power
+lies in the statement that in 1770 this town was a wealthier place than
+London. With the loss of the Colonies, Cadiz has sunk back to be<a name="page_320" id="page_320"></a> a
+mediocre city in the world, but she is contented and self-respecting.</p>
+
+<p>Though so remotely ancient, there is nothing of old architecture here.
+The ramparts have been turned into esplanades, where it is a joy to
+walk, for the views are beautiful past description; now across the bay
+to the mainland and the mountains of Ronda, and down on the quay of the
+town itself with its bay full of fishing boats; then to the north the
+eye seeks farther along the coast toward Palos whence three caravels,
+the Pinta, the Niña and the Santa María turned westward on a memorable
+third of August, 1492. On the other side of Cadiz is the ocean itself
+and I hope the enterprising town will some day carry the park along this
+western wall, where the rollers break so magnificently. Just past the
+public gardens, a narrow causeway leads to the lighthouse of San
+Sebastián, set well out to sea, a favorite walk for us at sunset time to
+watch the fishing boats with their high prows come sailing back to the
+harbor each evening. The sunsets we saw in Cadiz were flaming pink and
+gold and red like those of the world on the other side of the Atlantic;
+also we saw a sunrise exquisite as a dream. It was here the ancients
+first met the suggestive wonder of the open ocean, and their
+philosophers pondered over the phenomenon of the tides. They thought
+that subterranean animals<a name="page_321" id="page_321"></a> or winds sucked them in; and the sun, they
+said, when it had sunk in the western ocean, returned to the east by
+subterranean passages,&mdash;guesses about as wise as some that we are making
+to-day on phenomena of the soul.</p>
+
+<p>I do not know if it was just chance good fortune, but Cadiz will always
+be an exhilarating memory. Its air was so bracing, balmy yet full of
+vitality. The moral atmosphere seemed joyous and contented; a
+hurdy-gurdy would strike up below in the street with the bang of a
+tambourine, and from all the windows near, pennies would gayly rattle
+down. The people were courteous without second thought. A working man
+walked out of his way for ten minutes to direct us through the
+complicated streets, and then ran off with a laugh to avoid the fee; a
+shopman straightened eye-glasses and genuinely refused to be paid for so
+small a service; wonder of wonders when our luggage got carried in the
+wrong hotel diligence, the landlord refused to let us pay. Three such
+episodes of disinterestedness in one morning give one a pleasant
+impression of a place; and this town has presented itself to other
+travelers as happily. Byron, to whom this "renowned romantic land" as he
+called her, was eminently sympathetic, wrote to his mother, in 1809,
+"Cadiz, sweet Cadiz! it is the first spot in the creation. The beauty of
+its streets and<a name="page_322" id="page_322"></a> mansions are only excelled by the loveliness of its
+inhabitants, the finest women in Spain."</p>
+
+<p>Cadiz is enough of a place, with a bishopric and a garrison, to have the
+air of a capital; we noticed many men of the best hidalgo type, like
+those who stand behind Spínola in the "Surrender of Breda." In the park
+was an outdoor theater; children played <i>diavolo</i>; and nice little
+Spanish girls walked up and down with their English governesses. One
+could write or sew outdoors without exciting a glance of surprise. We
+used to spend hours under the palm trees of the <i>Alameda</i> sewing and
+reading and watching the groups about us, for in spite of its being
+mid-winter, the air was warm enough for spending the day out-of-doors.
+Cleanliness and godliness: Cadiz can boast of excellent public
+institutions. The new hospital that faces the Atlantic breezes, and
+where only a fraction of a franc is paid daily, could well be envied by
+the rich of new world cities. Its poor house is noted, and it has a host
+of minor charities; a <i>Casa de Viudas</i> for widows, a <i>Casa de Hermanos</i>,
+a <i>Casa de Locos</i> for the insane, tended, as are the others, by alert,
+willing nuns. It is a public-spirited little city, with a school of
+music and art, an <i>Instituto</i> whose physical laboratory is the best in
+Spain, two Public Libraries, for that of the Bishop is also open free to
+the people.<a name="page_323" id="page_323"></a></p>
+
+<p>The tourist sights here are soon seen; the Capuchin church where Murillo
+painted his last picture, and where he fell from the scaffold, soon
+after dying in Seville from the accident. There are two Cathedrals, one
+so sacked by English bucaneers that there is little to be seen, and the
+other a quite dreadful eighteenth century affair. The dull <i>Museo</i> has
+some good modern works, a bishop's head in profile by García y Ramos
+that is first rate art; and there is a triptych by a very early painter,
+Gallegos, the Spanish Primitive, which to my mind is more religious than
+the Murillos and the Zurbarans. It is a <i>Pietà</i>, and the eyes of the
+mourners are naïvely red from weeping, like Francia's <i>Pietàs</i> in Parma.</p>
+
+<p>Almost impregnable walls and moats shut off the isthmus that leads to
+the mainland, and their strength explains how Cadiz could have defied
+the French for two years during the War of Liberation, without suffering
+the horrors of the Gerona siege. The blockade began in 1808, soon after
+the heroic <i>Dos de Mayo</i> in Madrid. Quintana's poem rang like a trumpet
+call over the land: "<i>¡Antes la muerte que consentir jamás ningún
+tirano!</i>" No idle boast! Spain was celebrating the centenary of the
+second of May during our visit, and the scenes were moving and
+patriotic. You realized Lord Peterborough's<a name="page_324" id="page_324"></a> remark, that this was an
+unconquerable land if her people resisted the invader. Statues and
+tablets for the war heroes were unveiled, and songs and marches composed
+for the anniversary. The artillery officers organized a splendid parade
+of children that marched under the arch of Montleón, where Ruiz, and
+Velarde, and Daoiz fought, and there the King, holding the baby Prince
+of Asturias in his arms, showed him how to kiss his country's flag.
+Memorial Mass was said in the street outside the house where Velarde
+died, and toward evening one of the Madrid parishes marched out, its
+priests leading, to the cemetery where the <i>Dos de Mayo</i> victims were
+buried, and deposited wreaths in patriotic reverence.</p>
+
+<p>Cadiz' old church, St. Philip Neri, is where the permanent endurance of
+the first outburst of patriotism in 1808 was made possible. Here the
+Cortes met again after three hundred years' suppression under the
+Hapsburgs and Bourbons, here they abolished the Inquisition, and here
+they drew up the Constitution of 1812, which was to be tossed backward
+and forward during the next half century of disorders, to emerge finally
+with victory.</p>
+
+<p>An eloquent priest was the first speaker to open the historic meeting,
+and as he laid down the program, the sovereignty of the nation to<a name="page_325" id="page_325"></a> lie
+in the Cortes, and the King to exist for the people, not the people for
+the King as heretofore, Spain again had her foot on the ladder of
+progress. No wonder that the national military air of Spain is the
+<i>Marcha de Cádiz</i>. The clean, smokeless, plucky little city has right to
+a proud stand out in the Atlantic. Her age-long enemy, the ocean, had
+trained her well to strike a first blow for freedom.<a name="page_326" id="page_326"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="A_FEW_MODERN_NOVELS" id="A_FEW_MODERN_NOVELS"></a>A FEW MODERN NOVELS</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Don Quixote is not, as Montesquieu pretended, the only good
+Spanish book, which in reaction against the national spirit,
+ridiculed the others. It is rather the epitome of our national
+spirit, war-like and religious, full of sane realism and none the
+less enthusiastic for all that is great and beautiful."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Don Juan
+Valera.</span></p></div>
+
+<p class="nind">I<small>T</small> was the German philosopher Hegel who called the "Romancero del Cid"
+the most nobly beautiful poem, ideal and real at the same time, that the
+Epic Muse had inspired since Homer. <i>Ideal and real at the same time</i>,
+herein lies the first characteristic of Spanish literature, of to-day as
+well as of the past. No keener realistic pictures of a nation were ever
+drawn than in "Quixote," yet no book was ever more idealistic; and the
+path plowed so deeply by Cervantes, has been followed by the modern
+novelists of Spain. Their feet are well planted on the ground, but they
+do not think it necessary to prove they walk the earth by wallowing in
+its mud. These modern Spanish romances tell of the passions and sorrows
+of virile men and women, and at the same time they can boast that they
+are free from the moral evil so rampart in French novels. "Quixote" is
+not exactly a prude's book, yet the "jeune fille"<a name="page_327" id="page_327"></a> can read it
+unharmed and Cervantes has served in this point as a standard.<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a></p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_francis_327_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_francis_327_sml.jpg" width="416" height="550" alt="St. Francis of Assisi
+
+A wood-carving by Carmona, Museum of León" title="St. Francis of Assisi
+
+A wood-carving by Carmona, Museum of León" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">St. Francis of Assisi
+<br />
+A wood-carving by Carmona, Museum of León</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Few realize the delightful field of modern fiction that lies ready to be
+explored once enough Spanish has been mastered for reading. After three
+months' study only we found we could take up and enjoy "Don Quixote,"
+for contrary to the popular idea, its language is no more archaic than
+is the English of Hamlet or Henry IV; a great genius fixes the tongue in
+which he writes.</p>
+
+<p>The best of the novelists of this last half century, when the revival
+came about, are Valera and Pereda. Some would make a triology by placing
+Pérez Galdós side by side with them. For instance the historian
+Altamira, being in sympathy with the frankly revolutionary theories
+which Galdós advocates, calls him the first, the Balzac of Spain, but
+the Balzac of a people is never against the traditions of his race as
+Galdós<a name="page_328" id="page_328"></a> often is. "<i>Toda comparación es odiosa</i>" the dear Don warns us.
+Personally I give the first place to Valera and Pereda, in whose work is
+found the note of literature; Pereda the strength of the northern
+mountains, Valera the allurement of the south. Happily for their
+permanence and their value as human documents, the Spanish writers are
+local. Each describes his own province, his own <i>paisanos</i>. Doña Emilia
+Pardo Bazán paints her Galicia; Alacón his Andalusia; Valdés and Pérez
+Galdós are more cosmopolitan and I should say lose by it; Blasco Ibáñez
+writes of Valencia, Leopoldo Alas has vivified the Asturias.</p>
+
+<p>The revival of the <i>novela de costumbres</i>, which suits the Spanish
+temperament, just as the romantic or fantastic tale suits the German,
+may be said to have been started by that talented Sevillian authoress
+who wrote under the name of Fernán Caballero. She had not the gift of a
+good style, and most of her books are already of the past, but in "La
+Gaviota," published in 1849, her passionate love for Spain and its ways
+has made a novel that is likely to endure. The tale tells of many old
+customs: how on the night of November 2d, the Brotherhood of the Rosary
+of the Dawn rises to pray for the souls in Purgatory, how one of the
+sodality goes from house to house to rouse the others, striking a bell
+and singing:<a name="page_329" id="page_329"></a></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"I am at your door with a bell;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">I do not call you; it does not call you;<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">'T is your mother, 't is your father who call you,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And they beg you to pray for them to God."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And each member rises and follows the fraternity. A land does not lose
+that has such customs among its peasantry, that weaves in its religious
+belief with the inextricable souvenirs of home and childhood. A Spanish
+child is brought up on songs of the Passion and the Virgin as naturally
+as we on Mother Goose. When he sees a chimney-sweep he exclaims "<i>El Rey
+Melchor!</i>" for the visit of the Three Kings of the East is real to him.
+He knows the owl was present at the Crucifixion, whence his
+terror-stricken cry of "<i>Crux! Crux!</i>" that the kindly swallows relieved
+the Saviour of the thorns, and the gold-finches of the three agonizing
+nails:</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left">"En el monte Calvario&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align="left">En el monte Calvario</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;Las golondrinas</td><td align="left">Los jilgueritos</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;Le quitaron á Cristo</td><td align="left">Le quitaron á Cristo</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">&nbsp;Las cinco espinas.</td><td align="left">Los tres clavitos."</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The serpent according to Spanish lore, went proudly erect after his
+success with Eve, until down in Egypt one day, he tried to bite the
+little Infant Jesus, whereupon St. Joseph indignantly rebuked him and
+ordered him never to rise again. The rosemary is loved and given away as
+presents because when formerly a common plant,<a name="page_330" id="page_330"></a> once the Blessed Virgin
+hung out on it to dry the clothes of her divine Infant, and it became
+forever green and fragrant. The children at play sing these legends and
+folk-songs; on Christmas eve they dance their "Alegría! Alegría!
+Alegría!" A suggestive young writer of Granada, Angel Ganivet, says that
+in Spain Christian philosophy did not remain hidden in books, but worked
+its way into the very life of the people, where it is found in the
+popular songs and customs: "<i>Nuestra</i> 'Summa' <i>teológica y filosófica
+está en nuestro 'Romancero</i>.'"</p>
+
+<p>Fernán Caballero started the revival of the novel and its flowering soon
+followed. Don Juan Valera, though always interested in literature, had
+been prevented by his active life from himself writing till middle age.
+When in 1874 "Pepita Jiménez" appeared, it took his countrymen by storm,
+and this first novel, written by chance, was soon followed by others; a
+true creative artist had tardily discovered his genius. I cannot speak
+of Don Juan Valera without an admiration which to those who do not know
+his works may seem extreme. From his books his personality stands out as
+clearly as that of Cervantes, equable, high-minded, with that mellow
+wisdom which has gleaned the best from a life full of opportunities. In
+his "Discursos Academicos," two volumes that make enchanting
+reading<a name="page_331" id="page_331"></a>&mdash;enchanting and academical do not often go together&mdash;he
+disclaims the title of thinker, yet he was a profound observer. His
+satire is of that kindly quality that leaves no sting. He has charm,
+that salt of the writer; he is never exaggerated nor embittered. This
+quality of amenity he shares too with his master, whom he can write of
+with an absolute comprehension just as Cervantes himself could make a
+Quixote because he was akin. It was a happy chance that the last words
+of the modern novelist (over eighty and blind, yet alert in mental
+interests) should have been the unfinished paper for the Royal Academy,
+to celebrate in 1904 the three hundredth anniversary of "Don Quixote."
+His Spanish blood let Valera understand the heights of mysticism,
+skeptic though he was by force of circumstances; he could write with
+enthusiasm of St. Teresa. On woman he held advanced ideas, he advocated
+her highest education, especially the cultivation of letters, for he
+said that if man alone wrote half the knowledge of the human soul would
+be lost; civilizations where women are not given education and knowledge
+never arrive at their full flowering; it is as if the collective soul of
+the nation had clipped one of its wings. His own culture was an
+all-round one. He had the intimate knowledge that residence in foreign
+lands gives: English thought, German, Italian, Austrian,<a name="page_332" id="page_332"></a> American north
+and south, the Orient and its religions, in every country his literary
+interests had been alert. Thus he had a curiously minute knowledge of
+the North American poets. Of his own race essentially, he yet was
+cosmopolitan in the higher meaning of the word. All that went to make up
+dislike and division between nations he deplored as ignorance of man's
+higher destiny of brotherhood. It is not hard to read between the lines
+sometimes of his sensitive shrinking in his travels under the
+uncomprehending criticism of his native land; the world, especially the
+English-speaking world, has but a veiled contempt for things Spanish. He
+has righted his country in his books without a touch of aggressive
+impatience, by simply describing things as they are.</p>
+
+<p>Valera has set his romances in the Andalusia he knew best. He was born
+at Cabra in the province of Cordova in 1824, the son of a naval officer
+and the Marquesa de Paniega. He received the best of educations and when
+twenty-two accompanied the Spanish ambassador, the poet-duke de Rivas to
+Naples. Then followed half a life-time of diplomatic posts: Lisbon, Rio
+de Janeiro, Dresden, St. Petersburg, as Minister Plenipotentiary to
+Washington in 1883 and later to Brussels, finally as Ambassador to
+Vienna. He was also a member of the Cortes, a Councilor of State, and
+was one of the embassy sent to <a name="page_333" id="page_333"></a>Florence to offer the Crown to Amadeus
+I. During the two years of the Republic he retired, but returned to
+active life on the advent of Alfonso XII. Although a man of the world
+Valera was a born artist. Only in his first romance did he show the hand
+of the novice. His literary style is a simple and limpid medium that
+leaves behind unfading pictures of country and town; he has done what
+Balzac calls adding new beings <i>à l'état civil</i>.</p>
+
+<p>"Pepita Jiménez" came out in 1874, "Doña Luz" in 1879, two vignettes of
+Andalusian women immortalizing two very different types; Pepita of
+grace, passion, charm, compact, of the very heart of femininity,
+adorable despite her failings, achieving her own happiness against all
+odds; Doña Luz, idealistic, dignified in mind and manner, of the type of
+a Vittoria Colonna, proudly bearing the heart-outrage fate sent her,
+since her soul, for her the essential, had found its mystic way out. I
+do not think that in any fiction there is a more subtly given
+relationship than that of this noble creature Luz and the Dominican
+missionary from the Philippines, Padre Enrique, scholar and dumb poet.
+What with a Zola had been revolting, with Valera is humanly
+heart-breaking and spiritually ennobling, it could shock no piety; only
+a man of elevated character and the most sensitive discernment could so
+touch<a name="page_334" id="page_334"></a> on undefined emotions. The friendship of Doña Luz and the
+doctor's captivating daughter is a warm-hearted relationship of two
+young and pretty women declared impossible by many novelists. This tale
+of beautiful and tragic sincerity had been preceded by another, also set
+in one of the smaller Andalusian towns, and written with the lightness
+of manner and seriousness of matter that show the master hand: "El
+Comendador Mendoza," I cannot help feeling veils much of the author's
+own self. These stories show the soundness of the simple people. Swift
+marriages are looked on with disapproval; how, they ask, can esteem or
+true knowledge of character be gained in a few months.<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> So in Spain
+the opportunities allowed the <i>novios</i>, the young people who choose each
+other from mutual attraction, are unheard of in France or Italy.
+High-born or lowly, a Spanish girl can savor the romance of life,
+without disrepute, by talking at the <i>reja</i> during the midnight hours;
+before marriage she is allowed a freedom of speech, a <i>sal</i>, a
+self-development, denied her sisters in other Latin countries.</p>
+
+<p>It is not possible to touch on all of Valera's stories, for his vein
+once discovered, proved a rich one. His longest novel has a
+poorly-chosen name, "Las Ilusiones del Doctor Faustino" and<a name="page_335" id="page_335"></a> is not very
+well constructed, not enough is eliminated for art; but always there is
+the charm of the south, the midnight talking at the <i>reja</i>&mdash;those happy
+<i>novios</i> of Spain!&mdash;the drowsiness of the noontime siesta, the vivacity
+of the evening <i>tertulia</i>, that innocent way of diverting themselves
+every night from nine to twelve, the same group of friends meeting year
+after year. Constantly, as I read Spanish novels, I say a people that
+get so much out of so little are a lovable people, wholesome and of
+vigorous promise.</p>
+
+<p>It was indeed with very different eyes that I looked out on the distant
+towns as we passed in the train, they were peopled now with living
+people, a Pepita, a high-minded Luz, a philosophic Don Fresco, a kindly
+Doña Araceli, I felt that I was not quite a stranger here, now that Don
+Juan Valera had lifted from me the curtain of ignorance and prejudice
+that hides the everyday life of Spain.</p>
+
+<p>The same year that saw the appearance of "Pepita Jiménez" brought to
+light another tale that will last as long, it does not seem too much to
+say, as the "Quixote" itself. In "El Sombrero de Tres Picos," Alacón has
+achieved a masterpiece. It is a slight tale of a few hundred pages, in
+the genre style, a picture of the old régime before the French invasion
+of 1808 broke down the Chinese wall of the Pyrenees.<a name="page_336" id="page_336"></a> No description can
+do justice to its crisp, sparkling charm, to Frasquita, beautiful as a
+goddess, Eve herself, with a laugh like the <i>repique de Sábado de
+Gloria</i>; to her ugly, ironical, adorably malicious and sympathetic
+husband Lucas, the vibrant note of whose voice won all hearts, to whom
+his Frasquita was <i>más bueno que el pan</i>. Lucas and his wife are
+Shakespearean creations. Then there is that pompous vanity, the
+Corregidor, Don Eugenio de Zúñigo y Ponce de León, in his red cape, gold
+shoe buckles, and hat of three peaks. What a scene is that of the
+Bishop's visit to the miller's garden! And in what country but
+democratic Spain would a bishop stroll out with canons and grandees to
+while away a friendly hour with a miller? Inimitable tale, Spanish to
+the core, it is this that make a nation's glory, a "Don Quixote," a
+"Sotileza," a "Doña Luz," a "Sombrero de Tres Picos."</p>
+
+<p>Don Pedro Antonio de Alacón belonged, like Valera, to an old family of
+Andalusia, but not in the elder novelist's fortunate circumstances; one
+of ten sons, he had more or less to place himself in life. He was born
+in Gaudix in 1833; studied law at the University of Granada; and
+naturally gravitated toward Madrid, the center of political and literary
+interests. He flung himself headlong into the republican anti-clerical<a name="page_337" id="page_337"></a>
+ideas of that troubled time, but in later life his theories toned down
+so that he ended as a believer and a liberal conservative. Throughout a
+long political career Alacón kept his honor unstained; although often
+with friends in power, it was only after twenty-one years of politics
+that he accepted a post, on the advent of Alfonso XII, whose return he
+had advocated long before it came about. He had begun writing when very
+young, thus "El Clavo," a powerful sketch, was done when barely twenty.
+Like many of Spain's authors, he turned soldier when the call came, and
+served in the 1860 campaign in Africa of which he has left a vivid
+chronicle, "Diario de un Testigo de la Guerra en Africa." "El Sombrero"
+was followed by "El Escándalo," a novel widely discussed in Spain. The
+story opens strongly, but it scatters toward the end; Alacón is better
+in the tale than in sustained work. He can snap his fingers at our
+criticism, his Corregidor and his Molinera have made him one of the
+immortals.</p>
+
+<p>To another modern novelist, to Pérez Galdós, I feel I am not fair, but I
+find so much of his work antipathetic that, as he has not a good style
+and often offends good taste, I cannot force a liking. Brunetière speaks
+of the intolerance of the naturalist school of novelists, the
+intolerance of the free-thinker. Those who advocate the extreme
+republican, anti-clerical theories in<a name="page_338" id="page_338"></a> Spain have this intolerance to a
+marked degree. Pérez Galdós is so biassed that he distorts his
+characters from their natural evolution by making them voice his own
+ideas. The "roman à thèse" may win a greater fame for the first hour,
+but it is sure to pass with the changing questions of the time. The
+much-praised "Doña Perfecta" struck me as absurdly untrue to human
+nature. The heroine is presented as a not uncommon type of religious
+development, naturally where there is intense religious feeling there is
+a bigot here and there, but this Lady Perfection is not a consistent
+human being, but a monster. While anxious for her nephew to leave she
+yet urges him to stay, no reason why; she could easily have rid herself
+of him yet she brings about his death. Her character of the beginning
+does not match with her character of the end (the novelist offends
+several times in this way). The thin-visaged, oily priest-villain gives
+an aside over the footlights: "I have tried tricks, but there is no sin
+in tricks. My conscience is clear": evidently old-fashioned
+melodramatics are not yet extinct. It is quite impossible for a
+well-bred Spaniard to have insulted his kind hosts, as does Pepe, by
+telling them crudely that their Christian belief is a fable as past as
+paganism, "all the absurdities, falsities, illusions, dreams, are over,"
+to-day there is no more multiplication of bread<a name="page_339" id="page_339"></a> and fishes, but the
+rule of industry and machines. I think most people will feel that the
+characters of this book can intrigue and murder and throw in realistic
+asides as much as they will, we do not hate them because they fail to
+convince us that they ever really existed. They are just mouthpieces for
+their author's theories. In another novel, "Gloria," a beautiful
+passionate girl of sixteen is incapable of being the pedantic prig
+Galdós makes her in the opening chapters. Happily for the romance and
+for the weary reader, once the novelist warms to his story, religious
+discussions go to the wall and he presents a moving tragedy. Would that
+he could have kept up to the level of parts of this novel, that which
+presents Gloria's uncles, for instance, but he is very unequal. After
+scenes so true to life that they are a joy, he will indulge in the
+pseudo-giantesque of some of Hugo's purple patches, and only high genius
+can take such liberties. Thus in a tempest a church lamp falls; it
+breaks the glass of the urn in which lies the Dead Christ, it slaps St.
+Joseph in the face, it knocks the sword from the hand of St. Michael,
+and finishes its zig-zag career by crashing into a confessional. Lamps
+of anti-clerics only seem to act in this all-round, satisfying way;
+realists, like Pereda and Valera, are incapable of such exaggeration.
+Some critics hold "Angel Guerra"<a name="page_340" id="page_340"></a> and "Fortuna y Jacinta" to be the best
+of Galdós. His "Episodios Nacionales" are a series of novels on the
+events of the past century in Spain. In spite of vivid scenes, they
+seemed to me long-winded and confusing; one must be Spanish, they say,
+to appreciate them.</p>
+
+<p>Benito Pérez Galdós was born in 1845 in the Canary Islands. He has been
+an artist, a lawyer, a politician, and a journalist; in twenty years he
+has produced forty-two volumes, a record which makes his inequalities
+easy to understand. Personally he is a sincere and upright character.
+Although an avowed free-thinker he sits in reverence at the feet of his
+fellow novelist, Pereda, an ardent believer, and it was to be near him
+that he fixed his home in Santander: "Our master," he calls him, "a
+great poet in prose, the most classic and at the same time the greatest
+innovator of our writers."</p>
+
+<p>Far below Pérez Galdós, who, if not the first, is a distinguished and
+talented novelist, is Blasco Ibáñez, of the same school of anti-clerics
+and extreme republicanism. His stories are vigorous, crude studies of
+Valencia, that province which the proverb says is "a paradise inhabited
+by demons," and because so local, the books are valuable; personally I
+lay down such a tale as "Flor de Mayo" or "Arroz y Tartana" depressed
+and sick at heart. Ibáñez lacks ideality and elevation<a name="page_341" id="page_341"></a> of sentiment; he
+pictures ignoble lives in monotonous detail, all is labored description,
+for the characters never speak themselves, the author <i>describes</i> their
+conversation. One sentence of Sancho, one sentence of the Don and you
+know who speaks! It is to this minor novelist that a recent French book,
+"Les Maîtres du Roman Espagnol Contemporain," by a Monsieur F. Vézinet,
+devotes a fourth of its pages, while dismissing Pereda contemptuously,
+and not even mentioning "Sotileza," his great sea-masterpiece. Under the
+guise of literary criticism, the French writer veils a polemic against
+religion: "For Christians actually do find solace in a belief in a
+future life," is one of his remarks. On meeting in Spanish fiction a
+dignified reserve in scenes of passion, this teacher of young men&mdash;he is
+professor in the Lycée of Lyons&mdash;supplies the pepper lacking by telling
+how a French naturalist would have described the same scenes.</p>
+
+<p>Another Spanish writer of the free-thinking school, but of good literary
+quality, is Leopoldo Alas, author of "La Regenta," and a caustic,
+intelligent critic who under the name of <i>Clarín</i> did much to prick
+Spain awake to intellectual interest. Though born in Zamora (1852) he so
+associated himself with Oviedo, where he studied and later was professor
+in the University, that he may be called a son of the Asturias. "La
+Regenta"<a name="page_342" id="page_342"></a> is a powerful psychological novel, set in Oviedo, somewhat
+long drawn out, for the minute following of Ana Ozores in her downfall
+too closely approaches pathology. Ana, who resembles a little her
+namesake of Russia, (Alas has treated the real issue with the same
+uncompromising morality as Tolstoi) is a brilliant, lovable woman,
+capable of the highest, a girl who at sixteen can read St. Augustine
+with emotion; but she is fatally doomed by the limitations of a woman's
+life in her station. The acute Alas here puts his finger on a real evil
+in his country, the lack of wide interests for the women of the upper
+classes if no family duties are given them. They seem to have forgotten
+Isabella's day when Doña Lucía de Medrano lectured on the Latin classics
+in the University of Salamanca, and Doña Francesca de Lebrija filled the
+chair of rhetoric in the University of Alcalá, when the Queen read her
+New Testament in Greek, and her youngest daughter, the unfortunate wife
+of Henry VIII, won the admiration of Erasmus by her solid acquirements.
+To-day the idleness enforced by fashion leads often to morbid
+religiosity or to moral disaster. Toward the end, "La Regenta" like "El
+Escándalo" flags, especially is the canon De Pas a failure. Such a man
+would have been either a great saint or a great sinner, never could he
+have steered the mean middle<a name="page_343" id="page_343"></a> course he did. In this book, unlike the
+average romance, is much of the trail of the serpent of Zola's school,
+more the result of a too warm partisanship of the French novelist than
+innate in Alas.</p>
+
+<p>The talented Padre Coloma, author of "Pequeñeces," may be called, like
+the professor of Oviedo, a man of one novel. Born in Andalusia (1851), a
+literary protégé of Fernán Caballero, he led the life of a man of the
+world till about twenty-five, when a violent change of heart caused him
+to enter the Jesuit Order. There he has passed uneventful, useful years
+of study and teaching. His book, which is a harsh satire on the vices of
+the smart set of Madrid, made an immediate sensation. I cannot say I
+find the Padre Coloma a great writer by any means, he is too unequal;
+whole chapters drag heavily. But some of his scenes deserve the highest
+praise, such as the presentation of the heroine Currita Albornoz, or
+that truly noble description of one of Spain's proud usages, the twelve
+grandees of the first rank presenting themselves before their new
+monarch, the young Alfonso XII, on his return in 1875, a picture that
+rings with the heroic spirit of the past.</p>
+
+<p>We turn next to a novelist with so long a list of books to her credit
+that it is impossible to enumerate them, the Señora Emilia Pardo Bazán
+who<a name="page_344" id="page_344"></a> has been called the most notable woman of letters in Europe. Her
+salon in Madrid is one of the best known in the capital, but she has so
+deeply associated herself with her native province (born in Coruña in
+1851) that she is the boast of every Gallego. Mountain lands are noted
+for the loyalty they rouse in their sons, but few such enthusiasms equal
+that of Doña Emilia. She has told of the lonely hills, the chestnut
+forests, the never-failing streams of the Norway of Spain, and made
+alive the ancient usages, and the crabbed originality of the peasantry.
+"Los Pazos de Ulloa" (<i>pazos</i> is dialect for palace) and its sequel, "La
+Madre Naturaleza," have in them the very breath of outdoor life,&mdash;the
+last is an idyll in prose. She describes the untrained young <i>cura</i>
+leaving Santiago to step into the unhappy coil of events in the ruined
+manor house, his vain efforts to help the pathetic young wife and her
+brutalized husband. The tragedy is carried on to the second generation,
+and we see the two children growing up in solitude and desertion,
+roaming the countryside day and night, Perucho, blue-eyed, handsome as a
+Greek statue, the girl Manolita slender and dark; then the
+heart-breaking misery of the end. Work such as this is exquisite and
+sure to last. Madam Pardo Bazán edits one of the best reviews in Madrid,
+and she has written many stories that treat of life in the capital, but,
+like<a name="page_345" id="page_345"></a> the novels of Valdés, they might have been written elsewhere, in
+Paris or St. Petersburg. It is in the novels of her loved <i>paisanos</i> she
+will live.</p>
+
+<p>English-speaking people probably know Palacio Valdés better than any
+other Spanish writer, for his novels, of the regulation Parisian type,
+have been repeatedly translated. I care not at all for the Madrid
+novels, but sometimes in a dashing local romance he carries all before
+him: such is "La Hermana de San Sulpicio," <i>sal salada</i>, that
+untranslatable phrase of Andalusia where sparkle and verve are
+considered as highly as beauty in women. The story is facile, witty,
+light both in manner and matter, full of laughter following swift on
+tears, like its sprightly chatterbox of a heroine, an alluring creature
+who is sincere underneath the sparkle. Seville and the brilliant summer
+life of its patios, the sky raining stars, lovers talking all night at
+the <i>reja</i> in the scented air,&mdash;no one would tell on an <i>enamorado</i>, the
+very men drinking in a tavern send out a glass to the patient lover to
+wish him good luck. The friendly equality of the different classes is
+shown again here, and other traits not so praiseworthy, such as the
+intensity of local antipathies, the Andalusian's contempt for the
+Gallego, the Catalan's for the Andalusian. A Barcelona business man
+grumbles all day in Seville: "A glass of cognac 30 c. one day and 35 c.<a name="page_346" id="page_346"></a>
+the next in the same café. Is that business?" Two men from the northern
+mountains meet: "You too are from Asturias?" asks one. "No, from
+Galicia." "Then you are not <i>mi paisano</i>," and the first turns away in
+disdain.</p>
+
+<p>While the mundain, easy stories of Palacio Valdés are translated and
+widely read, one of the first of Spanish novelists is scarcely known
+outside his own country. Don José María de Pereda was born in 1835 and
+died in 1906, the year following Don Juan Valera's death. He is a true
+son of the <i>Montaña</i>, the coast country round Santander, whose Picos de
+Europa rise to a height of 9000 feet, and he has described his home with
+beautiful realism in some robust and primitive tales: "Escenas
+Montañesas; "El Sabor de la Tierruca"; "Sotileza," called his best, a
+very strong picture of fisher folk; "De tal Palo tal Astillo," which,
+like Galdós' "Gloria," is greatly spoiled by being a "roman à thèse";
+"Peñas Arriba," and many others. Pereda is a champion against skepticism
+and the weakening luxury of cities: he is so partial to his <i>patria
+chica</i> that he often abuses the patience of readers by his too free use
+of its dialect. With him, plot and action are of slight account, for his
+interest lies in the eternal human characters and in the countryside
+that molded them. A realist more exact than Flaubert, he yet fulfills
+the<a name="page_347" id="page_347"></a> prophecy of Huysmans as to the best type of novel for the future:
+"The truth of the document, the precision of detail, the condensed,
+nervous language of realism must be kept, but it must be clarified with
+soul, and mystery must no longer be explained by <i>maladies of the
+senses</i>. The romance should divide itself into two parts, welded or
+interbound as they are in life, that of the soul and that of body, and
+it should treat of their reaction, of their conflicts, of their mutual
+understandings." M. René Bazin has described a visit to Pereda at
+Polanco, his beautiful estate near Santander, where he led a life of
+cultured retirement, proving the theory which his books preach, that
+one's native home is the best paradise. To the French visitor, with his
+nation's swiftness to discern high distinction, it seemed as if it were
+Quixote himself, the man who came forward to meet him, of the pure
+hidalgo type, long face and aquiline nose, with that noble gesture of
+the hand that said, "My house is yours."</p>
+
+<p>Of Pereda's books, my favorite is "Peñas Arriba," which does for the
+mountain folk what "Sotileza" does for the coast life of the <i>Montaña</i>.
+It was while writing this that there fell on him the heart-rending blow
+of his young son's suicide, and a cross and date long stood in the<a name="page_348" id="page_348"></a>
+rough draft of the novel to mark the separation of the past from his
+saddened later life: only by force of will could he continue. Much of
+himself shows in the tale, which would entice a Parisian himself to live
+contentedly on a mountain side. There is a scene, the death of the
+squire of Tablanca, which indeed proclaims a master hand. Spain's best
+critic, Don Marcelino Menéndez y Pelayo (himself from Santander, born
+1856) writes of Pereda: "For me and all born <i>de peñas al mar</i>, these
+books are felt before judged, they are something of our mountain land
+like the breezes of the coast, one loves the author as one does one's
+family."</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps it is not fair to speak of a writer who is not a romancist, when
+good minor talents among the novelists have to be passed over, but I
+cannot resist ending with the name of this famous scholar, Menéndez y
+Pelayo,<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> who may be said to be discovering Spain to herself after her
+long discouragement. His books are on the history of philosophy and
+literature: "Historía de las Ideas Estéticas en España"; "Horacio en
+España," being graphic pages on the lyric poets; "Crítica Literaria";
+"Ciencia Española," "Calderón y su Teatro," and others. Faithful to the
+best traditions of his race, he is boldly asserting her past, her poets,
+her scientists, her<a name="page_349" id="page_349"></a> mystics,&mdash;they have been ignored too long; he holds
+that the peoples of the <i>mediodía</i> are the civilizing races par
+excellence. All the warring factions of Spain agree that here is a man
+of stupendous talent. "Every time I meet him, I find him with a new
+language. Never have I met a student of such prodigious erudition,"
+wrote the skeptic Alas. Menéndez y Pelayo may be called a literary
+phenomenon. Before twenty-five he had ransacked the libraries of Spain,
+Portugal, France, Italy, and Belgium, and was given a professorship in
+the University of Madrid. To-day his reputation is European among
+scholars. His profound knowledge of Greek, Latin, and Hebrew
+literatures, helps a swift, unerring sense to perceive the best. His
+work is not only that of a scholar, for it has in it the life-giving
+touch of imagination, which is wisdom, and makes a writer a classic.</p>
+
+<p>An anecdote that has the ring of the simplicity of a Cervantes or a
+Valera, the self-effacing of a Luis de León, is told of the young
+scholar of twenty-two. When spending an evening with some celebrated men
+where wit and learning flowed fast and copious, he poured out quotations
+so erudite and spontaneous that in modest embarrassment he took a paper
+from his pocket as if quoting from it. At the end of the evening a
+friend seized on the magic bit of paper, to find<a name="page_350" id="page_350"></a> it a washerwoman's
+bill. Praise cannot hurt such a man. When a race can produce in a short
+fifty years a Pereda, a Valera, a Menéndez y Pelayo, have we the right
+to call it spent and out of the running?<a name="page_351" id="page_351"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="ESTREMADURA" id="ESTREMADURA"></a>ESTREMADURA</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"I have always felt that the two most precious things in life are
+faith and love. As I grow older I think so more and more. Ambition
+and achievement are out of the running; the disappointments are
+many and the prizes few, and by the time they are attained seem
+small. The whole thing is vanity and vexation of spirit without
+faith and love. I have come to see that cleverness, success,
+attainment, count for little; that goodness, 'character,' is the
+important factor in life."</p>
+
+<p class="r">G<small>EORGE</small> J. R<small>OMANES</small>.</p></div>
+
+<p class="nind">L<small>ITERALLY</small> worn out with the noise of Seville's Holy Week, we took the
+night train, that chill, rainy Good Friday, and left the Andalusian
+excitement behind. As carriages are forbidden in the city on both Holy
+Thursday and Good Friday, we had expected to walk to the station&mdash;they
+told us that the King, the year before, had walked to his train&mdash;but the
+regulation ceased at sunset on Friday and we were able to drive.</p>
+
+<p>As usual we had the <i>Reservado para Señoras</i> compartment to ourselves,
+and so exhausted were we that we slept heavily with only an occasional
+waking to look out on the cold hills we were crossing. There was a moon
+which hurrying black<a name="page_352" id="page_352"></a> clouds obscured fitfully. Under the somber sky the
+desolate hills seemed like the fantastic sepia drawing of a Turner:
+swift unforgettable memories one carries away from night journeys in
+Spain.</p>
+
+<p>We left the train at Mérida, now a poor place with some few thousand
+inhabitants, but up to the fourth century a splendid Roman city, the
+capital of Lusitania. The castle built by Romans, Moors, Knights of
+Santiago, and bishops; the theater, the aqueduct, the bridge, the
+triumphal arch, and the baths show what it once was. We could not have
+visited this solitary province at a happier hour. Field flowers made the
+countryside as beautiful for the moment as Umbria or Devonshire; the
+wheat fields, always so articulate and lovely, had their own charm even
+after the magnificent outburst of roses and orange blossoms a month
+earlier in Seville.</p>
+
+<p>Mérida is small,&mdash;frugal and neat, as are the larger number of Spanish
+towns. As we explored it, the people greeted us with kindly "<i>Vayan
+Ustedes con Dios</i>"; we had left behind the tourist-infested south with
+its insolent city loafers. It seemed too good to believe that we had
+come again among the grave, dignified Spaniards of the north. In order
+not to miss the Holy Saturday services, I hastened to the Cathedral.<a name="page_353" id="page_353"></a>
+There was a cracked old organ and the singing was little better, but
+devout, heart-moving peasants rose and knelt, up and down, during the
+long Flectamus Genua! Levate! ceremony of that day, and the bells burst
+into the riotous clamor they seem to achieve so individually all over
+Spain. It may have been ungrateful, but it was without the slightest
+regret that I thought of the display going on at the same hour in
+Seville.</p>
+
+<p>We had taken the trip into Estremadura to see the Roman remains, the
+best in the Peninsula. The ruins are more fortunate in their setting
+here than in many places, for there are none of the bustling cafés nor
+electric cars of Nîmes or Verona. Paestum is more poetic, Baalbec a
+hundred times more grandiose, but Mérida on a showery, sunshiny day in
+spring is an ideal spot for musing and rambling. In the city itself are
+some ancient remains, such as a temple of Mars, and the fluted columns
+of a temple of Diana built into a mediæval house, which, by the way, has
+a lovely Plateresque window, but most of the ruins lie completely
+outside the present town. The amphitheatre, when we saw it, had a
+comfortable troop of goats asleep in the warm shelter of its oval, and
+the remarkable theatre, known as <i>Las Siete Sillas</i>, from the seven
+divisions of its upper seats that crown it like a coronet, was gay with
+poppies and buttercups,&mdash;the national<a name="page_354" id="page_354"></a> colors gleamed everywhere.
+Swallows in cool, metallic, blue-black coats, dipped and swept in their
+swift, graceful way. Looking out on the view which embraced Mérida on
+one side and a line of rugged hills on the other, we lingered for hours
+in that Theatre of the Seven Seats. Children, like gentle fawns, one by
+one crept out from the town suburbs and gathered in a smiling, lovable
+circle round the strangers. We talked to them tranquilly, our map of
+their city seemed a fascinating wonder to them. They came and went
+smiling; now one returned to the town to fetch his mother, now a shy
+little girl laid an armful of poppies beside us, with no thought of
+pennies, but just out of primitive human kindliness. The dear Don's age
+of gold seemed a reality. And a day before we had angrily scattered
+those diabolical little pests, the street children of Seville! Could
+these enchanting little people belong to the same race, and live only a
+hundred and fifty miles away? Journeys in unfrequented parts of Spain
+give one a truer picture than is possible for the hurried tourist on the
+beaten track; every time we turned aside into the unspoiled country we
+met the people and ways which Cervantes has described. Never were
+gentler human beings than those little girls of Mérida, those young
+mothers, those big half-awkward lads, whose gazelle eyes would gaze
+at<a name="page_355" id="page_355"></a> us inquiringly, then turn to look at the scene we so obviously
+admired, then back to us with pleasure at our appreciation of what they
+too held most beautiful. We are told that peasants get no æsthetic
+pleasure from landscape, but I am sure romantic Roman ruins and perfect
+spring-time weather had much to do with giving those children faces of
+such pure outline.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_roadside_354_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_roadside_354_sml.jpg" width="340" height="550" alt="Copyright, 1910, by Underwood &amp; Underwood
+
+A Roadside Scene in Spain" title="Copyright, 1910, by Underwood &amp; Underwood
+
+A Roadside Scene in Spain" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption"><small>Copyright, , 1910, by Underwood &amp; Underwood</small>
+<br />
+A Roadside Scene in Spain</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps later, when the sun scorches the first freshness, Mérida may be
+a desolate enough spot; we probably knew her best hour, the lovely April
+of her prime. We were loath to tear ourselves away; we read to our
+interested audience accounts of their city's past, when Emperors' armies
+marched along the Roman road that led from Cadiz north, and alert to
+catch the meaning, they listened with that vividness of the eye that
+shows the imagination is roused. Then from the daily paper we read to
+them that in Madrid on Holy Thursday, two days before, the King had
+washed the feet of a dozen poor men, kissed them in humility, then
+waited on them at table, assisted by the grandees of Spain; that on Good
+Friday he had set free some criminals. When the bishop's words rang
+through the church: "Señor, human laws condemn these men to death," Don
+Alfonso answered with moved voice: "I pardon them, and may God pardon
+me!" And somehow, Alfonso XIII is not jarring or theatric<a name="page_356" id="page_356"></a> among such
+ancient usages of Spanish Christianity. Very modern with his automobile,
+his polo, his careless ease, this charming king is one with his people
+in a radical sympathy with ways that symbolize soul and heart emotions.</p>
+
+<p>Mérida has a bridge built by the Emperor Trajan. And it has ruins of a
+very stately aqueduct standing in wheat and poppy fields. This is built
+of stone and brick ranged in regular lines, and though only about a
+hundred feet high, is truly majestic, the entrancing touch being given
+by the hundreds of storks who have built nests on the top of the arches.
+Some of our little friends had accompanied us through the fields to the
+aqueduct, and when we took a final ramble through the town, many were
+the smiling greetings, "<i>Buenas Tardes</i>." Mérida is too small to have
+visitors pass a day there without making friends among its courteous
+people.</p>
+
+<p>We took an evening train on to Cáceres ten miles away, for its hotels
+sounded inviting; and a second happy day, a holy and tranquil <i>Domingo
+de Resurrección</i>, gave us another memory of Estremadura. Cáceres is an
+unspoiled mediæval town climbing up a crag, just such a place as
+Albrecht Dürer loved to paint. It is very individual. From the plaza
+with its acacia trees we mounted the steep grass-grown streets, past one
+baronial mansion after another, with<a name="page_357" id="page_357"></a> old escutcheoned doorways blazoned
+with plumed helmet and shield. In one of them, the house of the
+Golfines, <i>los Reyes Católicos</i> stayed on a visit. Nowhere in the world
+save in Spain could such a bit of the Middle Ages stand untouched and
+unnoticed, giving one that thrilling sensation of the traveler, the
+meeting unheralded with a very rare thing. The views caught between the
+granite mansions were lovely, for Cáceres lies in the most cultivated
+district of the county. Across the river rose another steep crag, turned
+into a Way of Calvary, with a picturesque church crowning it.</p>
+
+<p>The town has some excellent hotels, and we were well-fed and slept well
+for five pesetas a day in one of them. Easter Sunday morning I awoke to
+the sound of bleating animals, and looking out, there at every doorway
+was tied a tiny white or black lamb, with a bunch of soft greens to
+nibble on. It is the custom for each family to have this symbol of peace
+and innocence on the Christian Passover. All day long the children
+played with them, and toward evening when the toy-like legs trembled
+with fatigue, the little boys carried the lambs across their shoulders
+as shepherds do. In the midst of patriarchal ways, we kept
+congratulating ourselves that we had escaped the noisy city to the
+south, whose Easter crowds were pouring in eager excitement to the<a name="page_358" id="page_358"></a>
+first bull-fight of the year; it was the thought of the scene being
+enacted in Seville that made us a little unjust to the city where so
+happy a winter had been passed.</p>
+
+<p>After Mass in a gray old church on the hill, a procession formed to
+carry the <i>pasos</i> of Cáceres. Each house was hung with the national
+colors, and on the balconies tall men of the hidalgo type and proud
+Spanish ladies (Madrid has not drained the provincial places of their
+leading families) knelt respectfully as the cortège passed. The statues
+were simple and poor, they were borne by pious peasants, and the silent
+crowd dropped to its knees on the pavement with a prayer. Not a tourist
+was there, save two who felt so in sympathy with old Spain that they
+disclaimed the title. To think that the gorgeous materialistic <i>pasos</i>
+of Seville had once begun in this way! Easter afternoon made as pastoral
+a memory as the hours in Mérida. We walked out with the people to the
+hill of the Stations of the Cross. Life seemed a happy and normal thing
+when all, old and young, grandee and peasant, gave courteous greeting to
+those who passed; also it was a joy to hear pure Castilian after the
+somewhat slovenly Andalusian dialect.</p>
+
+<p>However, the week in Estremadura was not to end on an idyllic note. We
+attempted an<a name="page_359" id="page_359"></a> excursion beyond our strength and got well punished; the
+moral is, avoid all diligence journeys in Spain, they are only for those
+who have the nerves of oxen. The real reason why we had come into this
+little-visited province was because that old emperor born in Italica
+near Seville, Trajan, the bridge builder, had in the year <small>A.D.</small> 105 put
+up one of his bridges at Alcántara, a town now on the Portuguese
+frontier. Such a reason sounds slightly absurd, but many who read
+certain descriptions of the bridge must feel the same impulse to hunt it
+up. Richard Ford calls it one of the wonders of Spain, "the work of men
+when there were giants on the earth," worth going five hundred miles out
+of one's way to see as it rises in lonely grandeur two hundred feet
+above the Tagus River. So it no doubt appeared to the English traveler
+who stumbled on it eighty years ago, for it was then an unrestored,
+picturesque ruin, probably unused since one of its arches had been blown
+up by the English in the Peninsula War. At any rate, it was such glowing
+words that enticed us into the wilderness of Estremadura.</p>
+
+<p>It is strange in Spain how little they know of districts that lie at no
+appreciable distance. At the inn at Cáceres we asked for information
+about Alcántara, and they could give none. The landlord himself came
+over to our table to look<a name="page_360" id="page_360"></a> at us in astonishment. "But there is nothing
+to see there!" he assured us, too polite to ask the question that showed
+in his voice,&mdash;why were two ladies seeking a dismal spot such as
+Alcántara? I positively blushed as I answered there was a bridge. "A
+bridge!" He beat a hasty retreat to his wife in the office, where their
+merriment burst out. The next day he told us, that having inquired, he
+found we could take the train to Arroyo, an hour away, whence a
+diligence ran in a short time to Alcántara. We left the train at Arroyo,
+and on the other side of the station found the smallest diligence ever
+seen, so packed already with big countrymen that we could just force our
+unwilling selves in. When we were well started, we found to our
+consternation that we did not reach Alcántara before ten hours, the
+distance being about thirty miles. <i>Una legua una hora</i> runs the saying,
+and this part of the world is ruled by its wise old proverbs. Too late
+to turn back, we tried to make the best of it. When in each of the
+desolate villages long pauses were made, we got out to visit the market
+or church. In the first village the altar was dressed with coarsest but
+freshest linen. Artistic pewter, unconscious of its charm, held the
+water and wine, and a score of sturdy young peasants came in from
+selling in the plaza outside, knelt on the very steps of the altar, then
+having made their<a name="page_361" id="page_361"></a> serious preparation, each bashfully approached a
+white-haired priest who sat there all market day in readiness to hear
+confessions. The dismallest corner of Spain has compensations.</p>
+
+<p>The first ten miles of the journey reminded me of New England, with its
+stone walls and semi-cultivated land. The next ten miles were indeed the
+proverbial desolation of Estremadura; hardly an inhabitant was to be
+found on those bleak hills. We had stumbled on one of the three days of
+the yearly fair of Brozas, so we passed flocks of sheep, cattle with a
+royal spread of horns, and dozens of the nervous Andalusian horses. Even
+automobiles went by, and one Portuguese noble drove abreast three truly
+glorious cream-white mules. Seeing them, one could understand how a mule
+here can cost more than a horse. The fair was held in meadows outside
+the town, and it looked so animated that we should have liked to stop,
+but no time was given us. A mile outside Brozas we found we had to
+change from the tiny diligence, a primitive enough way of travel, and to
+continue the remaining miles to Alcántara in the mail cart, which
+consisted of a board laid across two wheels, and that one seat had to be
+shared with the driver. Fuming did no good, not another vehicle would
+take us. The cold wind howled across the treeless upland, our umbrellas
+could not break its<a name="page_362" id="page_362"></a> biting force, and we were far too thinly clad from
+the warm Seville winter; I could feel the chill seize on me that was to
+lead to a month's bad illness. The final touch was when the young scamp
+who drove the mail cart found it impossible to forego his eternal
+cigarette, which, despite remonstrance, he smoked continuously. That
+evening (we had left Cáceres in the pitch dark at 5 <small>A.M.</small>) we were set
+down at an inn whose spacious rooms and staircase told of former
+prosperity, but so shrunken was its hospitality that it could offer
+nothing fit to eat; yet, curiously enough, the old landlady made the
+best coffee I have tasted in Europe. We kept her busy grinding and
+boiling it.</p>
+
+<p>Alcántara is one of the most God-forsaken places in the world. Pigs walk
+the ill-kept streets, and the vast buildings of the monkish-knights who
+formerly guarded the frontier pass are crumbling into such universal
+ruin that the lanes are a mass of broken rubbish. They are not romantic
+ruins, but depressing and almost terrifying. When we climbed down the
+precipitous hill that led to the bridge, our shoes were cut to pieces by
+the flinty stones.</p>
+
+<p>And the bridge, that lode-star of our pilgrimage, worth going five
+hundred miles to see! We thought with exasperation of the sixty we were
+wasting on it. No doubt Trajan did build it<a name="page_363" id="page_363"></a> eighteen centuries ago, but
+they have chipped off the beautiful gray toning of ages, filled in with
+mortar the boulders after they had stood unaided till our time, and made
+a modern boulevard from Portugal. All solitude and sublimity are well
+eliminated from the scene. We sat on the benches of that banal little
+park and glared at the disappointing thing. The Tagus, Lope de Vega's
+<i>hidalgo Tajo</i>, was here a low stream, yellow with mud, flowing beneath
+bleak, unimposing hills. The bridge, in spite of its two hundred feet of
+height, did not appear as high as the aqueduct at Mérida, an effect due
+probably to the arches standing on stilts. And it may sound blatant, but
+a memory of once passing under that superb thing the Brooklyn Bridge, at
+dawn, made this ancient monument suffer in comparison. The ludicrousness
+of our having traveled out of our way to see this sight struck us at
+last, and when we recalled the Cáceres landlord's astonishment, and that
+of Brazilian friends at Seville who had tried to persuade us our
+Estremadura plan was quite mad, we too burst into a hearty laugh, soon
+sobered at the prospect of the next day's weary return to Arroyo. We
+climbed back to the inn and dined on <i>glasses</i> of coffee.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning, after some more glasses of our only modus
+vivendi, we explored the decayed town. In it is a pearl of architecture<a name="page_364" id="page_364"></a>
+built by the Benedictine knights in 1506, the now ruined church of San
+Benito, with lofty slender piers, one of the most gracefully
+proportioned of semi-Renaissance things. Truly was the transition from
+Gothic to Renaissance a most harmonious moment in Spanish architecture.
+This interesting discovery could not do away with the fever and cold of
+the awful drive back to Arroyo. Such petty miseries are best passed
+over. More dead than alive, late the second night we reached again the
+comfortable hotel at Cáceres, where we were glad to pause a few days to
+pick up strength to push on.</p>
+
+<p>Our plans had been to go to Trujillo, the birthplace of Pizarro. It was
+Estremadura that produced many of the rude, energetic <i>conquistadores</i>
+of Peru and Mexico, and the province never has recovered from that drain
+on its population. Just as the number of Jewish and Moorish exiles and
+the loss to their country's vitality has been exaggerated for partisan
+reasons, so there has been an underestimation of the more serious drain
+which Spain suffered when hoards of sturdy adventurers set out for the
+New World. The emigration was untimely; it came a century too early. The
+country had just been brought from political chaos to law and order by
+Isabella's great reign; but before the fruit of her planting could ripen
+(by peace and its natural<a name="page_365" id="page_365"></a> sequence of settled trade) it was plucked
+from the bough. I have never been able to see that the expulsion of two
+hundred thousand Jews, the execution of thirty-five thousand heretics,
+and the exile of under a million Moriscoes, are sufficient causes to
+explain Spain's decay. Other countries of Europe, prosperous to-day,
+suffered from evils quite as bad. Why did Segovia, with an "old
+Christian" population independent of Moorish banishment, have
+thirty-five thousand weavers of cloth in the beginning of the
+seventeenth century and but a few hundred in the next generation? A
+score of questions similar to this can be asked to which the hackneyed
+explanation of the Inquisition and the expulsion of the Moors gives no
+answer.</p>
+
+<p>The causes of Spain's decay must be sought farther afield than in single
+acts of bad government which crippled the country for a time but were
+not irremediable. Through emigration, just when with the ending of the
+seven hundred years' crusade the nation should have turned to peaceful
+industries, she lost her agriculturists and her possible traders. And
+following swift on this, for emigration does not permanently weaken a
+strong race, Spain was bled of her best blood by Charles V's senseless
+European wars. She profited nothing by them, in fact they lowered her to
+the position of a mere province in the Empire.<a name="page_366" id="page_366"></a> The treasure that poured
+in from the New World was poured out over Europe, it merely passed
+through Spain. American gold was a curse for her; it undermined the
+national character; the spirit of adventure, not of patient work, was
+fostered. The policy of the Emperor was continued by his descendants,
+and for two hundred years more Spain was at war. Anæmia of the whole
+race followed: so true is it that the nation of fighters to-day runs the
+risk of being the nation of weaklings to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>Good government might have helped the ill, but Charles V pursued in that
+line a policy as fatal as his continental wars. He tried to force on
+these subjects whom he never understood an iron autocratic rule,
+ruthlessly crushing their tenacious spirit of independence. The death of
+Ximenez and the execution of the Comuneros leaders may be said to mark
+the ending of the sensible old régime of self-centering her resources,
+exclusive and provincial perhaps, but it had been Spain's salvation. To
+meet the expenses of ceaseless wars in Europe, when the first influx of
+colonial gold ceased, the Peninsula was heavily taxed: a fourteen per
+cent tariff on all commodities will soon kill trade. For the same
+reason, to pay for wars, the currency was debased under Philip III; and
+the Crown held monopolies on spirits, tobacco, pottery, glass, cloth,
+and<a name="page_367" id="page_367"></a> other necessities, a system always bad for commerce. The agrarian
+laws were neglected, too much land was in pasturage, which tends to
+lower the census, and too vast tracts were held by single nobles. The
+loss of population went on; in 1649 an epidemic carried off two hundred
+thousand people. The economic discouragement was aggravated by a host of
+minor reasons, such as the insecurity of property along the coast from
+African pirates; a too generous allowance of holidays; the prejudice
+against trading inherited from crusading ancestors; and there being no
+alien element&mdash;for this Moor or Jew would have served&mdash;to give the spur
+of competition which keeps a nation in health. Hapsburg and Bourbon
+misgovernment and wars blighted Spain for three centuries. But to-day
+new life is stirring in her. She is returning to Ximenez's wise rule of
+not scattering but of concentrating her powers. Happily those unhealthy
+growths, the colonies, are lopped off at last:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Passed into peace the heavy pride of Spain.<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Back to her castled hills and windy moors!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>In the mountains, not far from Trujillo, lay Yuste, the solitary
+monastery to which retired that dominating figure of his age, Charles V,
+who was so decidedly interesting as a man, but so pernicious as a ruler.
+When he came to this distant<a name="page_368" id="page_368"></a> inheritance he could scarcely speak the
+Castilian tongue; he did all in his power to stifle the indomitable
+character of the race,&mdash;and alas! he succeeded but too well in starting
+her downward course. Yet the magical something in the soul of Spain
+vanquished even him, as it had impermeated the conquering Roman, the
+Goth, the Israelite, and the Arab. With all Europe from which to choose,
+Charles came back voluntarily to the Peninsula, to its most untamed
+province, to spend the last days of his jaded life.</p>
+
+<p>Reading at home accounts of Yuste, it had been easy to plan a trip
+there, and to Guadalupe, the famous monastery which also lay among these
+hills; but one diligence drive can quench all further foolhardy
+adventuring. With a feeling that illness was threatening, and it was
+wiser to get away from this "extrema ora," we again took the local line
+to Arroyo, and there gladly boarded the express that passed through from
+Lisbon to Madrid.<a name="page_369" id="page_369"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="ARAGON" id="ARAGON"></a>ARAGON</h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"O World thou chooseth not the better part!<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">It is not wisdom to be only wise<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And on the inward vision close the eyes,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">But it is wisdom to believe the heart.<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Columbus found a world, and had no chart<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Save one that faith deciphered in the skies,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">To trust the soul's invincible surmise<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Was all his science and his only art.<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Our knowledge is a torch of smoky pine<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">That lights the pathway but one step ahead<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Across a void of mystery and dread.<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Bid, then, the tender light of faith to shine,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">By which alone the mortal heart is led<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Unto the thinking of the thought divine."<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">G<small>EORGE</small> S<small>ANTAYANA</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">I<small>F</small> it is one of the coveted sensations of a traveler to stumble
+unexpectedly on some rare spot that is overlooked and unheralded, as was
+our experience at Cáceres, there is a second emotion that is close to
+it,&mdash;the return to a favorite picture gallery, especially if in the
+meantime one has gone further afield, has learned to know other schools,
+and adjusted ideas by comparison. A return to the Prado can give this
+coveted sensation.<a name="page_370" id="page_370"></a></p>
+
+<p>The winter in the south had familiarized us with the Spanish painters;
+Murillo now seemed more than a sentimentalist, had he painted for
+different patrons he had been a decided realist; Toledo had showed that
+El Greco was to be taken seriously. No sooner were we back in Madrid
+than I hurried off to the Museum, and, looking neither to the right nor
+left, to give freshness to the impression, walked straight to the
+Velasquez room. In the autumn the last look had been for the "Surrender
+of Breda," and to that unforgettable, soul-stirring picture I paid my
+first return homage. It impressed me even more powerfully than before.
+Never was there a more sensitively-rendered expression of a high-minded
+soul than that of the Marquis Spínola<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> as he bends to meet his enemy.
+It is intangible and supreme, only equalled by some of Leonardo da
+Vinci's expressions. For those who hold enshrined a height to which man
+can rise, the face of this Italian general will ever be a stimulus; he
+would appeal to the English sense of honor, the chivalry of a Nelson;
+the heart-history of such a man could be told only by a novelist of true
+distinction, such as<a name="page_371" id="page_371"></a> Feuillet; there is something in Spínola's reserved
+tenderness that Loti might seize in words. Velasquez shows us a man of
+the world, but he has conveyed as only genius could how this warrior for
+<i>España la heróica</i> kept himself unspotted from the world, and this the
+painter could convey, because he himself was nobly idealistic, realist
+of the realists though he was. Not only in her mystics and novelists but
+in her painters and sculptors, Spain shows this union of the real with
+the ideal.</p>
+
+<p>Hours in the Velasquez room slip by unnoticed. The portrait of the
+sculptor Montañés was of more interest now that we had seen his
+polychrome statues in Seville, those especially memorable ones of St.
+Ignatius Loyola and St. Francis Borgia in the University Church. The
+hidalgo heads by El Greco, the flesh tints, alas, turned to a deathly
+green, called up Professor Domenech's words on the grave Spanish
+gentlemen in their ruffs&mdash;"sad with the nostalgia for a higher world,
+the light in their eyes holds memories of a fairer age that will not
+return; images of the last warrior ascetics." This eccentric artist has
+in the Prado a striking study of St. Paul, an intensity in his face on
+the verge of fanaticism, a true Israelite, such as only a semi-oriental
+like El Greco could seize. Another picture that struck me with even
+profounder admiration than before was<a name="page_372" id="page_372"></a> Titian's Charles V on horseback.
+And again I studied long the portraits of the pale Philip II, of his
+dainty little daughters, his sisters, his most lovely mother, and that
+pathetic English wife of his. Probably no northerner can see fairly both
+sides of Philip's strange character, just as I suppose no Spaniard can
+judge Elizabeth Tudor as does an Englishman. Nevertheless, there is a
+trait in Philip that all can admire&mdash;his filial loyalty.</p>
+
+<p>We could have lingered in Madrid for weeks just for this gallery, but we
+had to tear ourselves away. A journey south to Murcia and Valencia had
+been planned, but the necessity of passing a cold night on the train
+made us decide now against it. Those two provinces, with Navarre, are
+the gaps of our tour in Spain: health and weather will change the
+firmest of plans. We left Madrid for Aragon, pausing in a couple of the
+Castilian cities to the east.</p>
+
+<p>In the capital the parks had been bursting into leaf, but it was still
+chill winter outside on the plains. Treeless and verdureless Alcalá, the
+city of Ximenez and birthplace of Cervantes, looked far from inviting.
+When we left the train at Guadalajara, the landscape was so depressing
+that its Arab name, "river of stones," seemed dismally appropriate.
+Again, as at Segovia in the autumn, a wind <i>de todos los demonios</i> was
+blowing<a name="page_373" id="page_373"></a> over the land,&mdash;raging would be the more exact word. The town
+was melancholy, so was the weather, and we had a distressing personal
+experience. When the diligence set us down at the inn, we were told
+there was not a bed to be had that night in all Guadalajara, for it was
+the election, and even the hotel corridors would be used; we would have
+to go on to Sigüenza by the night train. The wind and the cold made the
+prospect a dismal one; early spring travel in northern Spain is not a
+bed of roses.</p>
+
+<p>We went out to explore Guadalajara and its chief lion, the Mendoza
+palace, built by the Mæcenas family of the Peninsula whose history has
+been called the history of Spain for four hundred years, so prominent
+were they as statesmen, clerics, and writers. The palace is in the
+Mudéjar style, the exterior studded with projecting knobs; the inner
+courtyard is coarsely carved with lions and scrolls, capriciously
+extravagant and yet within bounds enough to be effective. The Duke del
+Infantado entertained Francis I here, and surely the French king with
+memories of Blois and the chaster styles which his race follows, must
+have examined with curiosity this very different architecture of his
+neighbor, the intense individuality of whose conceptions could almost
+silence criticism. The Mendoza palace is now a school for the orphans of
+officers, and<a name="page_374" id="page_374"></a> when the little nun, happy and fond of laughter as the
+cloistered usually are, showed us about, we saw pleasant circles of
+young girls sewing under the forgotten gorgeousness of the <i>artesonado</i>
+ceilings.</p>
+
+<p>Then at midnight, wind howling and rain pelting, we crossed the muddy
+square that lay between the Sigüenza station and the town's most
+primitive inn. There they did the best they were able for us, but
+nothing could lessen the glacial damp of those linen sheets: the illness
+begun at Alcántara went on increasing. With chattering teeth and beating
+our frozen hands together to put some sensation into them, we realized
+we were back again on the truncated mountain which is central Spain,
+thousands of feet above the roses and oranges of Seville.</p>
+
+<p>The following day was Sunday, with a sacred concert of stringed
+instruments in the Cathedral, a good Gothic church, noticeably rich in
+sepulchers. In one chapel especially, that dedicated to St. Thomas of
+Canterbury by an English bishop who accompanied Queen Eleanor to Spain,
+when you stand among the tombs of those warriors, bishops, and knights
+of Santiago, you feel the thrill of the past. Cardinal Mendoza, "Tertius
+Rex," was at one time bishop of this Cathedral, having for vicar-general
+the priest Ximenez: Don Quixote's friend, the delightful<a name="page_375" id="page_375"></a> <i>cura</i>, was
+"<i>hombre docto graduado en Sigüenza</i>."</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_siguenza_374_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_siguenza_374_sml.jpg" width="377" height="550" alt="The Cathedral of Singüenza" title="The Cathedral of Singüenza" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">The Cathedral of Singüenza</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>The chill, little city was far from stimulating; at another time it may
+appear differently, impressions are so dependent on weather and health.
+The peasants wrapped in their blankets had a beggarly aspect after the
+dandy <i>majo</i> of Andalusia. I daresay were Seville three thousand feet
+above the sea, the bolero would be worn less jauntily. The Cathedral
+visited, there was little to detain us, so we bade a ready farewell to
+glacial sheets and ice-crusted water pitchers to continue the route to
+Aragon, west past Medinaceli, where a Roman arch stood boldly on the
+edge of its hill.</p>
+
+<p>The semi-royal family of Cerda, Dukes of Medinaceli, has possessions all
+over the country: forests near Avila, the <i>Casa de Pilatos</i> in Seville,
+lands near Cordova, a castle at Zafra, and vast tracts in Catalonia. It
+descends from Alfonso <i>el Sabio</i>, whose eldest son, called <i>la Cerda</i>,
+from a tuft of hair on his face, was married to a daughter of St. Louis
+of France, and left two infant sons, who were dispossessed by their
+uncle, Sancho <i>el Bravo</i>. For generations they continued to put forward
+their claims on every fresh coronation.</p>
+
+<p>After entering Aragon the climate grew warmer. We were descending
+gradually, and<a name="page_376" id="page_376"></a> soon fruit trees in blossom, and vineyards, appeared
+among the broken, irregular hills. Calatayud, birthplace of the Roman
+poet Martial, was extremely picturesque, with castle and steeples. The
+long hours of the journey were whiled away watching the Sunday crowds in
+the stations, many of the men and women in the astonishingly original
+costume of the province. By the time we had reached Saragossa we had
+descended to about five hundred feet altitude, and it was pleasantly
+warm.</p>
+
+<p>The capital of Aragon is commonplace in appearance, flat, modern, and
+prosperous. The noisy electric cars and the bustling streets made it an
+abrupt change from the small Castilian cities just left. As always, our
+first walk was to the Cathedral&mdash;Saragossa has two, and the chapter
+lives for six months in each alternately. The <i>Seo</i> is an ancient and
+beautiful structure, the <i>Pilar</i> is a tawdry, cold-hearted object, such
+as the eighteenth century knew how to produce, a mixture of the styles
+of Herrera and Churriguera. It is a pity that one of the most revered
+shrines in Spain should be housed in such vulgarity. Outside, seen from
+the bridge over the Ebro, the many domes of different sizes, covered
+with glazed tiles of green, yellow, and white, are not bad, but within
+is a soul-distressing mass of plaster walls, and ceilings of
+Sassoferrato-blue.<a name="page_377" id="page_377"></a> The High Altar, however, has a treasure, the
+celebrated alabaster <i>retablo</i> of Damián Forment, one of the best of
+national sculptors, who worked between the Gothic and Renaissance
+periods, and who was helped to ease of expression by Berruguete, lately
+returned from Italy.</p>
+
+<p>The holy of holies of this new Cathedral is, of course, the chapel of
+the <i>Pilar</i>, and about it are always gathered devotional crowds. To a
+Spaniard it is naturally a sacred spot, associated as it is with his
+earliest memories; there is not a hut in all Aragon that has not an
+image of the <i>Pilar</i> Madonna; but to the Catholic of another land, who
+never heard of this cult till coming to Spain, it is impossible to feel
+the same devotion, especially when it is surrounded with such bad taste.
+I tried to arouse imagination by recalling what the <i>Pilar</i> had meant
+for this city in its hours of danger, how during the siege of 1808 they
+kept up courage by exclaiming, "The holy <i>Virgen del Pilar</i> is still
+with us!": one of the witticisms of the siege was:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"La Virgen del Pilar dice,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Que no quiere ser francesa."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">Just as in Andalusia the chief ejaculation is "<i>Ave María Purísima!</i>"
+and in the mountains of the north, "<i>Nuestra Señora de Nieve!</i>" so in<a name="page_378" id="page_378"></a>
+Aragon, "<i>Virgen Mia del Pilar!</i>" springs to the lips in time of joy or
+trouble. However, emotion cannot be summoned on command, and I left
+Saragossa unmoved by her special shrine of devotion. Had it been in the
+solemn old Cathedral, sympathy had come more readily. The <i>Seo</i>, like
+most Spanish churches, is spoiled outside by restoration, but within it
+is not unworthy of the coronations and councils held there. Ferdinand
+<i>el Católico</i> was baptized at its font; and near the altar is buried the
+heart of Velasquez's handsome little Don Baltazar Carlos, who died of
+the plague at seventeen. The church is high and square, like a hall; it
+is rich in mediæval tombs, Moorish ceilings, pictures, and jewels. Some
+truly glorious fourteenth century tapestries were still hanging in place
+after the Easter festivals, on the day of our visit; and as a council
+was to be held in the church on the following day, a row of gold busts
+of saints, Gothic relic holders, stood on the altar. The sacristy was a
+treasure house, from its floor of Valencian tiles to its vestments heavy
+with real pearls. The enthusiasm of the priest who showed us the
+Cathedral told of the personal pride most of his countrymen feel in the
+house of God; again, as at Burgos, I felt that these people considered
+their churches as much their abode as their own simple homes, that one
+supplemented the other, and<a name="page_379" id="page_379"></a> hence much of the contentment of their
+frugal lives.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a></p>
+
+<p>We were stupid enough to go hunting for the leaning tower of Saragossa,
+not knowing that it had come down in 1893, and the search led us through
+the narrow streets of the older town, where the mansions of dull, small
+bricks, as a rule, have been turned into stables and warehouses, like
+the former palaces of Barcelona. Outside the city, flat on the plain,
+stands what was once the Moorish, later the Christian, palace, the
+Aljuferia, now serving as barracks, in which are embedded a few good
+remains, such as a small mosque and a noble hall of Isabella's time,
+with that suggestive date, 1492,&mdash;Granada and America.</p>
+
+<p>On our first arrival at the hotel in Saragossa, they had informed us we
+could stay but a few days, as the centenary celebration of May 2d, 1808,
+was approaching, and every hotel room was engaged. The town so hum-drum
+to-day has a stirring history to look back on. In modern times she has
+stood a siege as heroic as any<a name="page_380" id="page_380"></a> in the Netherlands, but Spain has lacked
+a Motley to make her popular. I can only repeat, justice has never been
+done to the outburst of patriotism which began in Madrid with the <i>Dos
+de Mayo</i>, 1808. Murat's savage slaughter on that May day made the whole
+of Spain rise in almost simultaneous defense, to the astonishment and
+admiration of Europe. Saragossa chose for her leader against the invader
+the young Count Palafox, assisted by the priest Santiago Sas, and by Tío
+Jorge ("Uncle George") with two peasant lieutenants. The French closed
+in round the city, but the victory of Bailén in the south raised this
+first siege.</p>
+
+<p>Then in December of 1808 four French marshals with twenty thousand men
+again surrounded Saragossa, and it must not be overlooked that, built on
+the plain, she had slight natural means of defense. "War to the knife"
+was the historic answer of the town when called on to surrender, and the
+bones of over forty thousand citizens at the end of the siege bore
+testimony to the boast. To embarrass the enemy they cut down the olive
+plantations around the city, thus destroying with unselfish courage the
+revenue of a generation, for it takes some twenty years for the olive
+tree to bear fruit. They sacrificed all personal rights to private
+property by breaking down the partitions from house to house<a name="page_381" id="page_381"></a> till every
+block was turned into a well-defended fortress. Organized by the
+intelligent Countess of Burita, the women enrolled themselves in
+companies to serve in the hospitals and to carry food and ammunition to
+the fighters; a girl of the people, Ajustina of Aragon, whom Byron
+immortalized as the Maid of Saragossa, worked the gun of an
+artillery-man through a fiery assault. Ajustina lived for fifty years
+after her famous day, always showing the same vigorous equilibrium of
+character; though Ferdinand VII rewarded her with the commission of an
+officer, she seldom made use of the uniform of her rank nor let
+adulation change the humble course of her life. The siege lasted up to
+the end of February. In the beginning of that month the daily deaths
+were five hundred, the living were not able to bury the dead, and a pest
+soon bred; the atmosphere was such that the slightest wound gangrened.
+Sir John Carr, who visited Spain the year of the siege, heard detailed
+accounts from officers who had taken part in it: "The smoke of gunpowder
+kept the city in twilight darkness, horribly illumined by the fire that
+issued from the cannon of the enemy. In the intervals which succeeded
+these discharges, women and children were beheld in the street writhing
+in the agonies of death, yet scarcely a sigh or moan was heard. Priests
+were seen, as<a name="page_382" id="page_382"></a> they were rushing to meet the foe, to kneel by the side
+of the dying, and dropping their sabers, to take the cross from their
+bosoms and administer the consolations of their religion, during which
+they exhibited the same calmness usually displayed in the chambers of
+sickness." Even after the French had forced an entrance into the city,
+there continued for weeks a room to room struggle: "Each house has to be
+taken separately," Marshall Lannes wrote to Napoleon, "it is a war that
+horrifies." "At length the city demolished, the inhabitants worn out by
+disease, fighting and famine, the besieged were obliged with broken
+hearts to surrender, February 21, 1809, after having covered themselves
+with glory during one of the most memorable sieges in the annals of war,
+which lasted sixty-three days." (<i>Travels in Spain</i>, Sir John Carr
+K.C.). Truly can the <i>testarudo aragonés</i> of Iberian blood boast of the
+title of his capital, <i>siempre heróica</i>!</p>
+
+<p>The Aragonese is manly, enduring, and stubborn; the special laws of this
+independent province, the <i>Fueros</i>, are worth close study from those
+interested in the gradual steps of man's self-government; under an
+ostensible monarchy they gave republican institutions. This is an
+address to the King: "We, who count for as much as you and have more
+power than you, we elect you king in order that you may guard our
+privileges and<a name="page_383" id="page_383"></a> liberties; and not otherwise." Nice language for a
+Hapsburg or a Bourbon to hear! Aragon was united early, by a royal
+marriage, to Catalonia, and a few centuries later Ferdinand's union with
+Isabella bound both provinces to Castile, Ferdinand also conquering
+Navarre; it was under the first of the Bourbon kings, Philip V, that
+Aragon lost her treasured <i>Fueros</i>.</p>
+
+<p>We saw nothing of the neighboring Navarre, and I cannot say we saw much
+of sturdy Aragon, since Saragossa was the only stopping-place, but a
+long day on the train going south gave us a fair idea of its general
+character. And constantly through the day rose the remembrance that it
+was here in this kingdom happened the delightful Duchess adventure.
+Never has the scene been equaled,&mdash;that witty, high-bred lady and
+<i>hermano Sancho</i> of the adorable platitudes and proverbs&mdash;("<i>Sesenta mil
+satanases te lleven á ti y á tus refranes</i>"! even the patient Don
+exclaimed)&mdash;brother Sancho quite unembarrassed&mdash;was he not a <i>cristiano
+viejo</i>?&mdash;stooping to kiss her dainty hand.</p>
+
+<p>The landscape of the province was rather desolate, though relieved from
+monotony by the snow-covered wall of the Pyrenees that continued
+unbroken in the distance to our left. The Spanish side of the great
+range of mountains is abrupt in comparison with the French slopes, which
+are gay<a name="page_384" id="page_384"></a> with fashionable spas, and fertile with slow, winding rivers,
+such as the Garonne. In Spain the rivers descend with such rapidity that
+they pour away their life-giving waters in prodigal spring floods, and
+during the rest of the year the land suffers from drought; there is a
+saying here that it is easier to mix mortar with wine than with water.</p>
+
+<p>It happened that on our train was a band of young soldiers returning to
+their homes after their military service, as irrepressible as escaped
+young colts. Such songs and merriment! Such family scenes at each
+station! Mothers and little sisters, blushing cousins and neighbors had
+flocked down from the villages on the Pyrenees slopes to welcome them. A
+touch of nature makes the world akin; we found ourselves waving, too, as
+the train drew away, leaving the returned lad in the midst of his
+rejoicing family. At the fortress-crowned town of Monzón we saw the last
+of our happy fellow travelers. There a young soldier led his comrades to
+be presented to a majestic old man with a plaid shawl flung over his
+shoulder like a toga, and the son's expression of pride in the noble
+patriarch was a thing not soon forgotten. In Spain few journeys lack a
+primary human interest, something to give food to heart or soul.<a name="page_385" id="page_385"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="MINOR_CITIES_OF_CATALONIA" id="MINOR_CITIES_OF_CATALONIA"></a>MINOR CITIES OF CATALONIA</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Romanesque is the Trappist of architecture, ... on its knees in the
+dust, singing with lowered head in a plaintive voice the psalms of
+penitence.... This mystic Romanesque suggests the idea of a robust
+faith, a manly patience, a piety as secure as its walls. It is the
+true architecture of the cloister.... There is fear of sin in these
+massive vaults and fear of a God whose rigours never slackened till
+the coming of the Son. Gothic on the contrary is less fearful, the
+lowered eyes are lifted, the sepulchral voices grow angelic....
+Romanesque allegorizes the Old Testament, and Gothic the
+New.&mdash;J.-K. H<small>UYSMANS</small>.</p></div>
+
+<p class="nind">I<small>N</small> his valuable book on Spanish churches, Street is justly enthusiastic
+over the form that Gothic architecture took in the province of
+Catalonia, and especially over the now unused Cathedral of Lérida, which
+he calls the finest and purest early-pointed church in Europe. It was
+such praise that induced us to stop over in the dull, little city,
+crowned by the hill where the ancient Cathedral stands. Its history of
+ten sieges, and Velasquez's "Philip IV on horseback entering<a name="page_386" id="page_386"></a> Lérida in
+triumph," somehow had suggested a grandiose impression that is far from
+lived up to by the modern town.</p>
+
+<p>A pause of three hours between trains seemed to give ample time to see
+the Cathedral, but the scramble into which the visit to Lérida
+degenerated was proof that no limited period is ample time in this
+country of leisurely ease. Could we have gone direct to the citadel, all
+had been well, but as the hill is now a fort, with the old church turned
+into a dormitory for soldiers, much red tape was required to visit it.
+We hurried along the interminable crowded street that stretches beside
+the river, asking right and left for the office of the military
+governor. Wrongly directed, we burst into the somnolent quarters of the
+city authorities and made our request for a permit. With a slow dignity
+that no flurried haste could move, the provincial governor sent us to
+the private house of the military big-wig. There a precious half hour
+went by in the drawing-room with his handsome wife, who did not seem
+sorry to break the monotony of her exile by the strangers' visit. In
+came the genial governor waving the permit backward and forward for the
+ink to dry, and another half hour of social chatting went by, the very
+ink of Spain being gifted with dignified slowness. A soldier was put at
+our disposal to serve as guide, a<a name="page_387" id="page_387"></a> young man as tranquil as his
+superior, for we climbed the hill at a snail's pace, and once inside the
+fort were stopped here and there by sentries who, letter by letter, it
+seemed to our impatience, spelled out the written paper. When finally we
+stood before the Cathedral, the soldier escort told us we must pause
+there while he went to seek the commandant of the fort. Precious minute
+after minute went by, till at last, the clock telling us we must soon be
+starting back to the station, we took the bull by the horns and entered
+the church without further delay.</p>
+
+<p>A strange spectacle presented itself. In every direction were ranged
+cots, clothes hung about and washing troughs added to the confusion. The
+beautiful old church had been floored half way up its piers and down
+these improvised rooms we could see other rows of narrow beds. It was so
+cluttered that I could hardly get oriented; where was the nave? which
+were the transepts? We could see that the capitols of the pillars were
+grandly carved, that here was the beautiful clearness of form, the noble
+solidity of early Gothic, but the confusion of the soldiers' dormitory
+made it impossible to study the church with any satisfaction. Except for
+the architect, Lérida to-day hardly repays a visit. The soldiers stood
+round<a name="page_388" id="page_388"></a> in astonishment at such unexpected visitors, so we were soon glad
+to confine our examination to the exterior portals and the tower.</p>
+
+<p>Just as we were on the point of leaving, the commandant appeared, shook
+us warmly by the hand and prepared to take us over the fort. Like the
+military governor and his wife, he beamed with the interest of something
+new; the cordiality of all was perfect, but nothing, nothing, could
+hurry them. We explained that we had come to see the church alone, that
+our time unfortunately was limited, and we must now leave to catch the
+train for Poblet. He took a disappointed and bewildered farewell; up on
+his citadel in the land of pause and leisure such new-world notions of
+speed were disconcerting. With a hasty look at the noblest early-pointed
+church in Europe, a grateful handshake to the colonel, we hurried down
+the precipitous hill and jumped on the train just as it was moving out,
+our valises being flung in to us desperately at the final moment.</p>
+
+<p>Soon the broken, fertile hills of the province of Catalonia closed in
+around us, and the country grew so charming that we were glad to have
+planned to pass a night near Poblet. From the train we saw the prominent
+brown mass of the monastery buildings, but, of course, we ran on some
+miles before stopping in a station. There<a name="page_389" id="page_389"></a> we found a Catalan cart,
+two-wheeled with a barrel vaulted awning, and drove to the primitive
+hotel at Espluga. The landlord offered us his cart to drive out to
+Poblet, two miles away, but the bumps and ruts of the road from the
+station made us prefer to walk. The ill-kept roads and the not wholly
+cultivated fields told clearly that the industrial monks were no longer
+masters of the valley.</p>
+
+<p>Poblet stood for monastic pride, only nobles entered as monks, the
+mitered abbot was a count-palatine and ruled the peasantry as their
+feudal lord; the revenues were enormous, but as Benedictines are
+invariably cultivated men, they were spent on ancient manuscripts, and
+in the ceaseless energy of building. When the mob came from the
+neighboring towns in 1835 to sack the convent, they shattered the very
+treasure they sought. In their blind ignorance they did not know that
+chiseled alabaster, wrought doors and windows, and carven cloisters,
+represented the hidden gold they were seeking. This uprising in Spain
+against the monasteries, the "<i>pecado de sangre</i>," was a political more
+than a religious affair; in the first Carlist war, the countryside here
+was Constitutional, while the monks of Poblet were firm for the
+Pretender Don Carlos. The havoc the mob wrought is heart-rending; and
+yet though empty and partly destroyed,<a name="page_390" id="page_390"></a> Poblet is still one of the
+finest things in the Peninsula.</p>
+
+<p>On our way out to it we happened to take a wrong turning, which
+fortunately led us to encircle the walled-in mass of buildings before
+entering, and gave us some idea of their great extent. It was a
+veritable town; there were hospices for visitors, hospitals, a king's
+palace, an abbot's palace, a village of workshops for the artisans,
+since in every age the monks had been builders. Every style was
+represented, each stage of Romanesque and Gothic; Poblet is indeed
+to-day one of the best places in Europe to study architecture, and the
+guardian told us that students from every country flock here in the
+summer time. Artists too are a familiar sight sketching the beautiful
+vistas, the arched library, the pillared <i>sala capitular</i> where effigies
+of the abbots lie so haughtily that one can almost understand the fury
+of the rabble, the imposing length and strength of the novices'
+dormitory where swallows now flit, the pure early Gothic of King
+Martin's palace, the odd little <i>glorieta</i> of the chief cloister.
+Pleasant quarters can be found in the caretaker's house, which is more
+convenient than living at Espluga down the valley. We wandered for hours
+through courtyards and cloisters that show the subtly simple proportions
+of Catalan art. The church of<a name="page_391" id="page_391"></a> the monastery was built during that rare
+moment when Romanesque turned to pointed work; it is very narrow and
+severe and impressive. The once superb alabaster <i>retablo</i> is mutilated,
+and the tombs of the Aragonese kings are scattered. The bones of Jaime
+<i>el Conquistador</i> are now in Tarragona Cathedral. Poblet served as the
+Escorial of the rulers of Aragon and Catalonia, and is many times more
+worth visiting than Philip II's rigid pile in Castile. I strongly urge
+everyone who goes to Spain to turn aside from the beaten path to see
+this unrivaled Cistercian monastery, which it is no exaggeration to say
+is one of the most artistic groups of buildings in the world. The
+evening of our visit the sunset glorified the pretty rural valley whose
+brooks bounded merrily down the hillside. "Laugh of the mountain, lyre
+of bird and tree," Lope de Vega calls the gurgling, clear waters.</p>
+
+<p>We took a long hour to loiter back to Espluga, accompanied by a racy old
+character, Sabina, and her tourist donkey. The peasants returning from
+cutting wood up in the mountains above us gave a new greeting, "<i>Santas
+Noches</i>," reminiscent, no doubt, of the former masters of the valley.</p>
+
+<p>Then the following day we took the train south of Tarragona, to the
+"Little Rome" that is the reputed birthplace of Pontius Pilate, of<a name="page_392" id="page_392"></a>
+which Martial sang, and where Augustus Cæsar wintered. The landscape was
+a delight, showing the most unrivaled cultivation of soil I have ever
+seen, flowering orchards, fields of wheat and poppies, the very
+vineyards that Pliny has described; the sensation of the earth's lavish
+bounty, of the fecundity of the sun and the intoxication of growing
+things was overwhelming. And a week before we had been freezing in
+Sigüenza!</p>
+
+<p>On the train was an amusing company. Some dozen people came to one of
+the stations en route to escort an alert, keen-eyed little bishop, who
+mounted nimbly among us. Everyone bent to kiss his episcopal ring, and
+even when some shrewd business men entered the carriage later, and saw
+that a bishop was its occupant, they too knelt to kiss his hand in
+salutation, republican Catalans though they were. I could not take my
+eyes off the delightful little prelate, so happily unconscious of his
+purple satin skull cap with its St. Patrick's green rosette on top, and
+his equally vivid green woolen gloves. Then when we reached Tarragona,
+down he stepped briskly, and instead of entering an episcopal carriage
+as we expected, he got into a public diligence and drove off like a true
+democratic Spaniard.</p>
+
+<p>The Mediterranean at Tarragona was brilliantly,<a name="page_393" id="page_393"></a> startlingly blue. As it
+burst on us in its sun dazzling wonder it seemed as if the bleak high
+table-land of the country behind was a nightmare of the imagination.
+Surely a whole continent must separate such luxury and such aridness.</p>
+
+<p>We wandered about the white, glaring city, glad to bask in warm sun and
+drink in the salt air, happy too to be back again by the inland sea that
+has known the great nations of the earth, to be part again of the
+marvelous belt of ancient civilization that encircles its blue water.
+Tarragona was surrounded by cyclopean walls, the huge boulders of Rome
+below, and the smaller mediæval stones above. The blinding sun made the
+Cathedral so dark that it was long before we could see our way about. It
+is solemn and very earnest, with a fortress-like apse, and with
+cloisters the most perfect in the country. The doorways and capitols are
+so curiously carved that they merit detail study. The Roman urns, a
+Moorish prayer niche, and so on, down through the centuries, showed
+again how clearly architecture in Spain tells her history. The chief
+<i>retablo</i> is of extreme beauty, with large statues and smaller scenes
+combined harmoniously; in it the restraint that distinguishes the
+Catalan school is very apparent.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Tarragona, the railway followed<a name="page_394" id="page_394"></a> the coast for some time,
+then to our disappointment branched inland to loop round to Barcelona.
+When we realized that we could have taken the line that runs the whole
+way by the sea, we were annoyed at our mistake, though later we were
+grateful to it, for the inland route gave a noble view of Montserrat,
+that astonishing serrated ridge of gray rock, a cragged comb of stone,
+geologically a puzzle of formation, which abruptly rises out of the
+plain. For an hour the train drew nearer and nearer to it, so we got an
+admirable view. Our proposed ascent of the mountain was never to take
+place, and this was to be our only glimpse of the shrine to which
+thousands of pilgrims flock each year, where St. Ignatius Loyola sought
+counsel and made his vigil of the armor. When Barcelona was reached the
+illness which had been fastening itself closer since the unfortunate
+drive to Alcántara declared itself unmistakably, and many proposed
+excursions, such as Montserrat, Manresa, Ripoll, with its unique portal,
+had to be foregone. To leave a country with some of its best things
+unvisited is an open invitation to return,&mdash;which theory may be good
+philosophy, but is not wholly adequate in stifling regrets.<a name="page_395" id="page_395"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="BARCELONA" id="BARCELONA"></a>BARCELONA</h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">"He who loves not, lives not."</p>
+
+<p class="r">R<small>AMÓN</small> L<small>ULL</small>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Solemn the lift of high-embowered roof,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The clustered stems that spread in boughs disleaved,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Through which the organ blew a dream of storm<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">That shut the heart up in tranquillity."<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">J<small>AMES</small> R<small>USSELL</small> L<small>OWELL</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">I <small>WONDER</small> if, to the reader, when hearing the name Barcelona there rises
+one sovereign picture,&mdash;Isabella and Ferdinand's reception of Columbus
+on his return from the New World. It may have been some print seen in
+childhood that impressed itself indelibly on my imagination, but always
+with the name Barcelona I seemed to see <i>los Reyes Católicos</i> seated on
+their throne listening to the man whose genius was so well bodied forth
+in his face and bearing. Around stood gentle-eyed natives of the
+Antilles, with their ornaments of pearls and gold, lures that were to
+rouse the rapacity which exterminated those Arcadian peoples, and to
+break the heart of their great discoverer. Heart-break and defeat lay in
+the future, this was an hour of enthusiastic hope. When Columbus had
+finished his peroration, the Queen and the court fell<a name="page_396" id="page_396"></a> on their knees in
+a spontaneous burst of exaltation, and together intoned that king's hymn
+of victory, the <i>Te Deum</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It was the unknown Barcelona that called up this scene of Spain's heroic
+hour; the city as it is to-day has blurred and dimmed the picture. There
+is a striking statue of Columbus on a column that faces the harbor, but
+it is not of him nor of his patrons that you think here. The Castle of
+Segovia, the walls of Avila or Toledo, the Alhambra hill, Seville's
+Alcázar, these are romantic spots that make</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i3">"the high past appear<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Affably real and near,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">For all its grandiose air caught from the mien of kings";<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p class="nind">but I defy the imaginative lover of old times to call up the romantic in
+the modern capital of Catalonia; seething with industrial life, with
+revolutionary new ideas, she is too aggressive and prosperous for
+sentimental regrets.</p>
+
+<p>Barcelona's position as an industrial force cannot be called unexpected.
+She has ever been in the stir of big events, Italy's rival in commerce
+through the Middle Ages, when she served as the port of entry and exit
+for the armies and fleets. In all times she has enjoyed a climate that
+may well be the despair of commercial<a name="page_397" id="page_397"></a> cities of the north; the summer
+heats are tempered by sea-breezes, the winters are warmer than at
+Naples. Hearing reports of roses in bloom there in January, we had
+dreaded the heat of a May in the city, but during the five weeks of our
+stay, the bracing spring air was like that of New England. Her natural
+setting, too, is good; the harbor guarded by the lofty fort of Monjuich,
+while behind stretch mountains which lay far from the mediæval town, but
+to-day, when Barcelona covers an area twelve times as large, they are
+immediate suburbs and their names are familiar signs on the tramcars.</p>
+
+<p>The province of Catalonia is perhaps the most individual of the thirteen
+strikingly different provinces of the Peninsula. The Catalan is more
+Spanish than French certainly, but he is always more Catalan than
+Spanish. Independent, self-interested, intractable, strong-headed as an
+Aragonese, industrious, successful, in him is found slight trace of the
+hidalgo of Castile. It is hard to believe that this hive of born
+business men is in a land whose ideal of happiness is to do nothing. The
+idleness, the high-bred courtesy of the Castilian, are as unfamiliar
+here as in the Stock Exchange of New York; indeed Barcelona, with her
+streets filled with well-dressed, briskly-moving crowds, each intent on
+his own business, is more allied to the new world than<a name="page_398" id="page_398"></a> to the old.
+Adieu, indeed, to the toga-like capes, to mantillas, to midnight
+serenades. A Catalan has no time to waste chatting by alluring <i>rejas</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Catalonia has been called the Lancashire of Spain, and Barcelona its
+Manchester. If the comparison is fit in regard to commercial success, it
+is inappropriate in one respect, for, built by a Latin race, to whom is
+natural a sense of beauty, Barcelona, though as keen after money as the
+English town, has cared better for her interests. The sunlight is not
+darkened by the miles of factory chimneys that so oppress the heart in
+the black country. There are hundreds of belching chimneys, but they are
+kept out of sight in the valleys behind, where each factory stands
+isolated in the fields, often in a planted enclosure: this leaves the
+city proper free of traffic, smoke, and the whirr of machinery. The gay
+Rambla is edged with shops, and handsome apartment houses line the
+tree-planted avenues. Few towns have the force of will and continued
+patience to build themselves symmetrically; they are generally the
+result of hap-hazard, and only when too late the possibility of some
+river or sea front is discerned. Barcelona realized some fifty years ago
+that she was to be one of the conglomerations that modern cities tend to
+become, so she called on her engineers for plans, and from one of those
+submitted she chose an able<a name="page_399" id="page_399"></a> design; <i>Ensanche</i>, extension, is the name
+for the new districts. Of course if a whole city consisted of these
+wide, regular streets, it would be monotonous, but here was already
+enough of narrow-lane picturesqueness to satisfy the artist. The walls
+that encircle the congested older town were pulled down, the opened
+space was turned into an esplanade, and radiating from this nucleus,
+streets two hundred feet wide were laid and were immediately planted
+with double rows of plane trees. To-day the vistas down these
+far-stretching avenues, the sunlight filtering through the leaves on
+groups of nurses and children, the rapidly-moving crowds, the smart
+two-wheeled Catalan carts, the whirling automobiles, give the city an
+air of joyous prosperity. Behind the big apartment houses, the law
+requires a planted space to be kept open, so that people of very
+mediocre income live in houses and in districts that only the rich of
+other towns can command.</p>
+
+<p>The material success of the people has found an outlet in their
+architecture: Poblet, school for the builder, is not far away. Since
+some of the houses were put up during the exaggerated phase of <i>l'art
+nouveau</i>, they are overloaded with whirling ornament, quite as bad as
+Karlsruhe, but the majority are in dignified good taste: take, for
+instance, the new University buildings,<a name="page_400" id="page_400"></a> or that brown stone block near
+the beginning of the beautiful Paseo Garcia, Nos. 2 and 4, if I remember
+rightly. The sculptors too have inherited the skill of the early masters
+of Catalonia. Most of the modern churches (not Señor Gaudi's curious
+experiment, the Church of the Holy Family!) are built consistently in
+one style, the walls carved <i>in situ</i> as in old times; the effect is
+such that one prays the days of painted plaster may never return. It was
+good to notice, too, that the new churches discarded the tinsel-decked
+altars of the eighteenth century, the bane of Peninsula shrines.
+Barcelona builds as a rule in the Catalan manner; the early architects
+of the province, though influenced by Lombard and French masters, may be
+said to have achieved a national style. It is worthy of enthusiasm with
+its singular purity of line, a proportion that is hardly Spanish. Like
+Chartres, it has "the distinguished slenderness of an eternal
+adolescence." In nothing is it akin to Isabella's efflorescent
+Plateresque-Gothic. Its clustered piers, and arches carried high aloft,
+have been used as successfully in civil as in religious architecture,
+witness the Lonja, or Exchange.</p>
+
+<p>The new town, with its prosperous homes and shady avenues, tended to
+make us overlook old Barcelona, yet we only had to step aside from the
+thronged Rambla and we found ourselves in<a name="page_401" id="page_401"></a> dark, narrow streets, that at
+dusk especially made us shiver with apprehension. Forcibly they warned
+us that this was one of the most turbulent cities in Europe, where
+lawless socialists gather and plot, where some recent bomb-throwing
+outrages were the reason for groups of the <i>Guardias Civiles</i> on every
+corner. The red <i>gorro</i>, the Phrygian cap worn by the city porters,
+seemed too realistic when met in dark lanes, where the men pushed rudely
+by, your sex here no prerogative. With Philistine relief we used to
+return to the sanitary, orderly avenues of the <i>Ensanche</i>, patrolled by
+placid policemen in crimson broadcloth coats. A word of praise must be
+given to some of the municipal institutions of Barcelona, such as the
+corps of city porters, each with a small district in which to render
+help. The <i>hospicio</i>, or work-house, is considered one of the best
+organized in Europe. As long ago as 1786 an English traveler, the Rev.
+Joseph Townsend, wrote of another of Barcelona's institutions: "No
+hospital that I have seen upon the continent is so well administered as
+the general hospital of this city. It is peculiar in its attention to
+convalescents, for whom a separate habitation is provided, that after
+they are dismissed from the sick wards they may have time to recover
+their strength." Also her excellent city police are worthy of praise.
+The rest of<a name="page_402" id="page_402"></a> Spain could emulate them, for it was our experience that
+the local police were an incompetent set; we soon learned never to apply
+to them in case of difficulty, but to wait till an alert Civil Guard<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a>
+passed, when we were sure of intelligent help.<a name="page_403" id="page_403"></a></p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_barcelona_403_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_barcelona_403_sml.jpg" width="550" height="357" alt="Cloisters of San Pablo del Campo, Barcelona" title="Cloisters of San Pablo del Campo, Barcelona" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">Cloisters of San Pablo del Campo, Barcelona</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>It is the old town, congested and gloomy though it is, that, set side by
+side with the new, makes Barcelona unique. There are to be found
+primitive churches, such as Santa Ana, or San Pablo del Campo,<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> once,
+like St. Martin-in-the-Fields, placed among meadows; dim old churches
+similar in design, Byzantine cross form with a low dome over the center
+and with cloisters that make solemn oases of repose in the busy city. A
+later period built churches whose somber walls tower high above the
+crowded houses; such are Santa María del Pino and Santa María del Mar,
+characterized by wide hall-like naves. In the width of their nave lay
+the triumph of the Catalan masters. It was in the last named church that
+a pious woman of the town noticed one day a gray, emaciated man resting,
+among a group of children, on the steps of the altar, in his face a
+light of convincing holiness. Fresh from the spiritual battle in the
+Cave of Manresa, a grand self-mastery the reward of his struggle, no
+wonder the face of Ignatius compelled the reverence of the passer by.</p>
+
+<p>The Cathedral of Barcelona is a typically Catalan-Gothic church. For an
+<i>eglesia mayor</i> it is small, but so true are its proportions and so
+skillfully is it lighted that it gives the effect of grandeur. As the
+clearstory windows are mere<a name="page_404" id="page_404"></a> circles, on first entering one is in
+complete darkness, but gradually out of the gloom looms that loveliest
+feature of the building, the chancel, lighted by rare old glass, with
+slender piers and lofty stilted arches rising from pavement to vaulting
+in an unforgettable beauty of symmetry. The <i>retablo</i> of the High Altar
+is in character, articulate and graceful, unlike the usual, overladen
+reredos of Spain. Incense, prayer, soaring aspiration, the symbolization
+of this presbytery is a perfect thing: again vividly came the conviction
+that temples such as these have had and ever will have a vital influence
+on a race.</p>
+
+<p>Barcelona may be a shrewd commercial center, that in its material pride,
+in order not to be classed with the improvident, brutally repudiates
+most of the <i>cosas de España</i>; she may print books whose every word is
+an insult to government and religion; she is still deeply Spanish in the
+earnest piety of the larger proportion of her citizens. A Catalan may
+tell you, especially if you belong to a northern race and a different
+creed, that what you see is all form, lip-religion, that the men here,
+like intelligent men the world over, are free-thinkers. It is an easy
+matter for the prejudiced visitor to get all his misconceptions
+confirmed by a native, no one is more bitter in abuse of his country
+than a Catalan. Fortunately, one has one's own eyes wherewith to<a name="page_405" id="page_405"></a> see.
+But first I must quote from a recent letter to the <i>London Times</i> from
+the Rev. James R. Youlden, in answer to a pessimist on the religious
+condition of Spain:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"In the city of Barcelona, the largest, most modern and most
+industrial of Spanish cities, the good attendance at Mass, not only
+of women and children but of the men, is most remarkable, as is
+also the number of communicants. I have myself often given Holy
+Communion on a Sunday morning in the church of San Pedro to such
+large numbers, fully one-third of them men, that my arms have ached
+in conveying the sacred particles. Masses are celebrated every
+hour, and in some churches every half hour from 5 <small>A.M.</small> to 12 midday
+in all the twenty-four parish churches of the city (to say nothing
+of numerous convent chapels) in the presence of large and often
+crowded congregations. A visit to the church at any time from 8
+till 12 on any Sunday morning would dispel some of the illusions of
+your Madrid correspondent."</p></div>
+
+<p>A good test of the sincerity of religious conviction is what it costs
+the purse; new churches, like those of Barcelona, are not built by
+lip-religion. I spent several Sunday mornings sitting on one of the side
+benches of the Cathedral, learning that the Catalan, disunited from his
+mother land on many points, is ineradicably national in his creed. This
+was Spain, with the grave reverence of the smallest child, where the<a name="page_406" id="page_406"></a>
+church is a loved home, a frequented refuge for meditation and
+strengthening prayer. Now a handsome and satisfied matron enters,
+followed by five or six children, the boys dressed as English sailors,
+little Battenbergs, the girls with hats like flower gardens; they
+cluster round their mother at the door, and she passes each the blessed
+water with which to sign themselves. Behind this group come some alert
+young artisans; each instantly drops on both knees to make his
+salutation to the Altar&mdash;lip-religion does not care to disarray its
+Sunday suit like this&mdash;and each blesses himself in the swift national
+way, with the final carrying to the lips of the thumb and first finger
+crossed, a symbol of fidelity to his faith. May this custom never die
+out in Spain! From the first hour of her eight hundred years' crusade,
+from Cavadonga to Granada, her religion has been her glory, interwoven
+with her nationality, like that of the Jews of old, and if she
+understands her enduring interests, this Christian faith to which she
+has clung so loyally will be her aspiration in the future. When her men
+pass the High Altar without salute, when the street children cease to
+run in daily to kneel before a shrine, throwing their scanty skirts over
+their heads if a handkerchief is lacking, when politics and religion are
+synonymous, that day Spain may be called degenerate, but<a name="page_407" id="page_407"></a> not now, while
+lamps of sincere conviction burn before her altars.</p>
+
+<p>Ascension Thursday fell on a perfect day in late May, the warm sunshine
+tempered by a sea breeze; everyone was out gallantly in new summer
+suits. The houses were hung with the national flag, but the fairest
+decoration of the city were the hundreds of First Communicants who
+thronged the streets, accompanied by proud mothers and relatives. Each
+little girl in her quaint, long, white skirt, tulle veil and wreath of
+flowers, carried a new pearl chaplet or prayer book, and each boy wore a
+bow of white satin on his left arm. Few things are more appealing than
+an innocent-eyed child on this solemn day, and in after years, for those
+who have known such hours of purity, few memories are more indelible. As
+I passed through the old city, its dark streets lightened by these
+groups, I could not help exclaiming, "Why, when she can present a scene
+of such loveliness and hope, must Barcelona so blindly envy her neighbor
+across the Pyrenees!" Not long after leaving Spain, I stopped in a
+village in the mountains of Dauphiny, half Catholic, half Huguenot. Both
+churches were practically empty. The children of the town, except those
+of a few stanch families, walked in a public procession to honor the
+mayor, behind a banner bearing the<a name="page_408" id="page_408"></a> inscription, "Ni Dieu, ni maître."
+One cannot deny there are many in Barcelona whose aspiration would be
+satisfied with a similar procession in her streets, but the majority
+still prefer an Ascension Thursday of First Communicants.</p>
+
+<p>Before the west door of the Cathedral are remains of ancient houses
+which, like Italy, bear the signs of guilds, for this city always
+differed from the rest of Spain in looking on trade as an honorable
+career. A street behind the Cathedral leads to other specimens of
+domestic architecture. Be sure not to be discouraged by the cold Herrara
+front of the House of the Deputation. It masks a Gothic building which,
+if properly restored, as well as the Casa Consistorial, or Town Hall,
+which stands opposite to it, would make of this formal plaza one of the
+most interesting squares in Europe. The city's renewed pride in the
+Gothic of its province, her skillful architects, her wealth, should
+tempt her to the task. Be sure to go into both these buildings. In the
+Town Hall are some lovely <i>ajimez</i> windows that show the restraint of
+the Catalan style: they attenuated the features as far as strength would
+allow, but they knew just where to stop. The result is grace, lightness,
+a subtle something of proportion. In the Deputation House hangs the
+Catalan painter Fortuny's<a name="page_409" id="page_409"></a> "Battle of Tetuán," unfinished, with a
+dashing rainbow-hued charge of horsemen that stirs the memory of Spain's
+grand forays into Africa.</p>
+
+<p>In exploring Barcelona one notices unfamiliar names on the shops, here
+are no longer Alvarez, González, Pérez, García, but strange Catalan
+names, such as Bosch, Cla, Puig, Catafalch, Llordachs, Petz. On every
+side, in shops, in the tramcars, one hears the dialect spoken, rather
+rough sounding and wholly unintelligible to the traveler who knows only
+Castilian. In no other of Spain's provinces is so much made of local
+differences. The names of the streets are written twice on the street
+corners, in Catalan and in Castilian, a ridiculous arrangement, for in
+these proper names the differences are slight; as <i>Calle de Cortes</i>, and
+<i>Correr de les Corts</i>. To appease his thirst for self-assertion, the
+practical Catalan has marked his streets in a less adequate way than the
+rest of the Peninsula he looks down on: the clearness of the street
+directions, each tile generally holding one bold letter, had been a
+satisfaction all over Spain. This brings me into hot water at once, the
+vexed ever palpitating Catalan question. Is this province, Spain's
+richest and most progressive, to continue under the Spanish crown, to
+ally herself with France, or to be independent? She tells us in anger,
+she pays more than her share of the taxes, that she<a name="page_410" id="page_410"></a> is an isolated
+commercial and industrial force in a nation that is preëminently
+agricultural, whose laws are made to foster the farmer at the expense of
+the trader: the loss of the colonies was an advantage for the rest of
+the country whose crying need is population, but for Barcelona it was a
+severe blow. Spain has hard problems to solve, with thirteen inhabitants
+to the square mile in some provinces and one hundred and eight to the
+mile here in Catalonia.</p>
+
+<p>Books of open sedition are freely published, one picks them up in the
+waiting-room of a doctor's office, in the bank, on the stalls. This is
+no new phase. From early times Catalonia has only considered her own
+interests, now joining with France against Spain, now changing sides, as
+she thought to benefit herself; for her the nation is a secondary
+consideration. History proves she has been ineradicably selfish; hence
+her success, a sophist may say, but there is something higher than
+self-aggrandizement, the success of giving her strength to reforming the
+abuses she proclaims. No one denies there is crying need for political
+and financial reform at Madrid, though it is not to be brought about by
+such a book as Señor Pompeo Gener's "Cosas de España," which but widens
+the breach. One discerns it in the ignoble jealousy of the Castilian,
+which rankles in the Catalan mind; for instance<a name="page_411" id="page_411"></a> in speaking of
+Castilian literature of the nineteenth century he stops short at Fernán
+Caballero and makes no mention of the distinguished modern novelists. A
+writer who holds up Herbert Spencer as the ne plus ultra of philosophy
+(Spanish free-thinkers are a generation behind in certain phases of
+thought) need not be taken too seriously, but the "Cosas de España"
+voices what is serious.</p>
+
+<p>"Ah Castillo Castillano! why have we ever known you!" exclaims the
+Catalan poet Briz, in his celebrated poem, "Cuatro pals de Sanch," the
+blazon of the province, its four red bars. "If to us remains only one of
+our four bars of blood, to you we owe the loss, thou kingdom of the
+castles and the hungry lions. But, O Castillo Castillano, alas for you,
+if you break our last <i>pals de sanch</i>!" This bitter spirit of revolt
+makes this grand old province that should be Spain's bulwark, Spain's
+weakness instead.</p>
+
+<p>Would Catalonia gain by any of the changes she dreams of? Surely under
+the formalism of France, her self-willed independence would chafe and
+break loose, for independence is a characteristic of all Spaniards, in
+all ages, now and always; one cannot exaggerate it. Also the heart of
+the province is too deeply religious to live under the "Liberté" of her
+neighbor. In the United States religious liberty is little talked<a name="page_412" id="page_412"></a> of,
+but is a solid fact, wherein the new world gives a needed lesson to the
+old, with its narrow horizons and petty disputes. In France, where this
+liberty is vaunted, it is a farce: no Catalan could long tolerate such
+freedom. Again, if this small state were independent, where would she
+stand? A thought that strikes one forcibly after a tour of the province,
+whose towns, Gerona, Lérida, Tarragona, are of mediocre importance.
+Catalonia independent would be practically one city, Barcelona, whose
+trade the central government could cripple by prohibitory tariffs. Her
+pride would suffer more as one of the smallest, weakest states in
+Europe, than it now suffers under its lawful king, part of an old race
+that once led the world, and which if only this discontented daughter
+would generously help, has red blood enough to again play a prominent
+part. Spain needs just such help as the Catalan can give, she needs his
+grit, his industry, his progressiveness. Could he now bear the
+overweighted burden in a better spirit, before many years it would be
+lightened. The north is awakening to industrial life; Bilbao, Santander,
+Gijón, Coruña, Vigo, will soon be strong trading centers, and the older
+commercial city can gather supporters to work for fiscal autonomy, since
+the chief grievance is the centralized system of government in Madrid.
+Let her agitate in a constitutional way for a system<a name="page_413" id="page_413"></a> like the separate
+state arrangement of our union. The opposition of two vigorous sides is
+a sign of life in a nation. Discussion means change and advancement. For
+full vigor both sides are needed, the conservative to serve as brake on
+the democrat's too swiftly-turning wheels. An important cause of Spain's
+decay,<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> according to Don Juan Valera, came from all classes thinking
+the same way; drunk with pride on the ending of the centuries of crusade
+against their Moorish invader, with the discovery of a new continent the
+people lay back in slothful inertia, without the prick of dispute to
+rouse them. Opposition and struggle are essential to vigor, but
+disloyalty saps a nation's strength. Let them strike straight-front
+blows from the shoulder, for Madrid needs rousing, but let them not stab
+in the back. Often when wandering among the old tombs of Spain, those
+effigies of the grand-masters of Santiago, Calatrava and Alcántara, the
+plumed and helmeted knights of the noble brows, I recalled some ringing
+lines of Newbolt's. Every boy of Barcelona should know them by heart,
+they are not so needed in Castile:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"To set the cause above renown,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">To love the game above the prize,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">To honour while you strike him down<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">The foe that comes with fearless eyes.<a name="page_414" id="page_414"></a><br /></span>
+<span class="ist">To count the life of battle good,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And dear the land that gave you birth,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">And dearer yet the brotherhood<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">That binds the brave of all the earth."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Her intense local patriotism has a more sympathetic side than
+double-naming her streets and bearing a jealous grudge against her
+central government. This is the revival of her provincial literature.
+The interest in dialects and folk lore is a tendency common to many
+countries to-day, but in Catalonia the movement is on a grand scale.
+There newspapers and magazines in dialect are circulated, poems and
+novels are printed not for the literary alone but for the populace. Men
+of undeniable genius have written in the local tongue, one of the first
+to use it being that strangely interesting character of the thirteenth
+century, Ramón Lull, seneschal of Majorca, troubadour, mystic hermit,
+philosopher, missionary, and his final glory, martyr for the Faith; he
+is honored in the Church as <i>el beato</i> Raimundo Lulio. By less than ten
+years he missed being the contemporary of the gentle Assisian, the habit
+of whose tertiaries he wore; he wandered through Italy while Dante was
+writing his visions, in that wonderful century called dark, that can
+claim a Thomas Aquinas, a Bonaventura, an Abertus Magnus, an Elizabeth
+of Hungary, a Dominic, an Anthony of Padua, and<a name="page_415" id="page_415"></a> that scattered over
+Europe such witnesses of its upleap of aspiration as Amiens, Chartres,
+Westminster, Salisbury, Cologne, Strasburg, León, Toledo, Siena.</p>
+
+<p>Lull was born in the capital of the Balearic Islands, which lie a day's
+sail from Barcelona, and having passed an apprenticeship at court under
+Jaime <i>el Conquistador</i> of Aragon, he led in Palma a life of pleasure
+and dissipation till his romantic conversion at thirty-two. Núñez de
+Arce has enshrined the legend in verse: so violent was the seneschal's
+pursuit of a fair lady of the city that he once on horseback followed
+her into church to the scandal of the people. The poet gives the final
+scene that cured his passion, when she who was so exquisite without, to
+repell his advances, exposed to him a hidden cancer. The shock changed
+the worldling to a saint. Distributing his goods to the poor, he retired
+to a mountain, and spent some years in prayer. Later in his energetic
+career he returned to this hermitage to pass again periods in meditation
+for his spiritual strengthening, being the first to show that special
+faculty of the Spanish mystic, the double life of solitary ecstasy and
+active charity. The desire to convert the Mohammedan took such
+possession of his soul that at forty he put himself to school, like the
+great Basque patron of a later day, and in Paris he<a name="page_416" id="page_416"></a> studied logic and
+Arabic in preparation for his future career.</p>
+
+<p>Lull attained fourscore years, the latter half of his life being
+dominated by his burning purpose to convert Islam. One pope after
+another as he mounted the chair of Peter was beseiged by this
+astonishing man, and he wandered from court to court urging the
+universities to teach the oriental languages, that missionaries for the
+East might be fittingly prepared. Little success crowned his efforts for
+popes and kings had troubles nearer home. The Catalan enthusiast came at
+an inopportune moment; the last two Crusades under St. Louis of France
+had left discouragement behind. However, before his death he had the
+satisfaction of seeing chairs of Hebrew and Arabic founded by a pope, by
+a French king, and in Spain and England. The indefatigable man visited
+Austria, Poland, and Greece; he advocated the protection of the Greeks
+against Moslem incursions, a result only achieved in our own day; he
+stopped in Cypress, traversed Armenia, Palestine, and Egypt, zealously
+expounding the Gospel. His first visit as an apostle to Northern Africa
+was a failure. There is something touching about this old missionary of
+six hundred years ago being driven out of Tunis&mdash;he and his loved
+library&mdash;and embarked with harsh orders never<a name="page_417" id="page_417"></a> to return. Not in any
+spirit of patronage did he labor for the conversion of souls, but wiser
+than many to-day he carried with him true knowledge and respect for the
+Mohammedans. His liberal intelligence assimulated much that was of value
+in their ideas, especially from those heretics of Islam, the Persian
+Sufis, or mystics.</p>
+
+<p>A second time when over seventy Lull ventured across to Africa, and
+again he&mdash;and the books&mdash;were violently expelled. I fear our blessed
+Raimundo was a bit of a visionary, he thought to convince by
+intellectual debate. The king of England learning of the old scholar's
+chemical studies, with the curiosity of the period in regard to the
+philosopher's stone, invited him to London, and lodged him with the
+monks of Westminster Abbey. Chemistry was merely a side issue in the
+life of the great missionary. Just short of his eightieth year, with
+untiring courage and magnificent faith, he set forth once more on his
+final apostleship to the Mohammedan, and once more preached in Egypt,
+Jerusalem, and Tunis. At Bugia he was stoned by the furious populace,
+who left him for dead on the beach, and some Genoese merchants carried
+away his almost lifeless body. Before they reached the harbor of Palma
+the martyr had died, and his townsmen buried him with honors in the
+church of his master, St. Francis.<a name="page_418" id="page_418"></a></p>
+
+<p>Lull's books, the "Ars Magna" and the "Arbor Scientiæ," are filled with
+the curious system he evolved for reducing discords. He tried to
+co-ordinate and facilitate the operations of the mind, to simplify all
+sciences by showing them to be branches of one trunk. Much of his theory
+may be fanciful and impractical, but it was a truly suggestive idea
+based on the profound truth of the unity of knowledge. He explored many
+branches of the human mind, and left works on medicine, theology,
+politics, jurisprudence, mathematics and chemistry. The accusation of
+alchemy is untenable, for he made his experiments in scientific good
+faith, and wrote against astrology. For three centuries, down to the
+time of Descartes, Lull was considered a leader of the intellect, and
+his books were recommended by the universities of Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The Catalan dialect has been used by men of marked talent in our own
+time. The whole of Spain should be as proud of Padre Jacinto Verdaguer,
+as all France is of their Provençal, Mistral. Verdaguer's "Atlantada,"
+called the best epic of the century, was crowned in 1855 at the Floral
+Games, festivals which are held in Barcelona each year, for competitions
+in verse and prose, and to revive the national dances.</p>
+
+<p>This intellectual movement rouses the stranger's enthusiasm, and if it
+keeps itself dissociated<a name="page_419" id="page_419"></a> from politics,&mdash;those abominable politics that
+sink every noble thing they fasten on, patriotism, education, religion,
+art,&mdash;the revival may prove more than a passing phase. Alert in
+literature, in music, in the sciences, in municipal progress, and
+commercial success, what need has this city to be jealous of the
+capital; they are too different for comparison. Madrid lacks much that
+Barcelona can claim; a Catalan could emulate some Castilian qualities.
+Each vitally needs the other.<a name="page_420" id="page_420"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="GERONA" id="GERONA"></a>GERONA<br /><br />
+<small>AND FAREWELL TO SPAIN</small></h2>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i6">"I count him wise<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Who loves so well man's noble memories<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">He needs must love man's nobler hopes yet more!"<br /></span>
+<span class="i10">W<small>ILLIAM</small> W<small>ATSON</small>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Una restauración de la vida entera de España no puede tener otro
+punto de arranque que la concentración de todas nuestras energías
+dentro de nuestro territorio. Hay que cerrar con cerrojos, llaves,
+y candados todas las puertas por donde el espíritu español se
+escapó de España para derramarse por los cuatro puntos del
+horizonte, y por donde hoy espera que ha de venir la salvación; y
+en cada una de esas puertas no pondremos un rótulo dantesco que
+diga: "Lasciate ogni speranza," sino este otro más consolador, más
+humano, muy profundamente humano, imitado de San Ajustín: "Noli
+foras ire; in interiore Híspaniæ habitat veritas."</p>
+
+<p class="r">A<small>NGEL</small> G<small>ANIVET</small>: "<i>Idearium Español</i>."</p></div>
+
+<p class="nind">T<small>HE</small> day drew near for our leaving Spain. Eight months had passed since
+we entered from the north of the Pyrenees isthmus, and now we found
+ourselves at its southern exit. They had been months filled with an
+absorbing and unexpected interest; we had come into Spain for a mere
+autumn tour, and she had forced us to<a name="page_421" id="page_421"></a> linger. And I must repeat that
+I came with the average pessimistic idea that she was a spent and more
+or less worthless country, till what I saw about me daily changed me to
+a partisan. It was a hard farewell to take now. When Spain is allowed to
+show herself as she is, she wins a regard that is like an intense
+personal affection.</p>
+
+<p class="figcenter">
+<a href="images/ill_gerona_420_lg.jpg">
+<img src="images/ill_gerona_420_sml.jpg" width="384" height="550" alt="A Street Stairway, Gerona" title="A Street Stairway, Gerona" /></a>
+<br />
+<span class="caption">A Street Stairway, Gerona</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>At dawn on the early day in June set for our departure we left
+Barcelona; before night we would be in France, but the leave-taking was
+to be broken by some hours in Gerona. As usual it was the fact of its
+possessing a first-rate church that determined us to stop. This was to
+be the last of the grand cathedrals which more than those of any land,
+even of France with their purer art, had realized my ideal of worship
+and reverence. As Gerona was in Catalonia, good architecture was to be
+expected, but this was better than good. The Cathedral which dominates
+the town was worthy of its stirring memories. An imposing flight of
+eighty steps, like that of the Ara C&oelig;li in Rome, ascends to its west
+portal. At the head of this staircase we paused to look out on the
+panorama of the Pyrenees&mdash;mountain rose behind mountain, the foreground
+hills well-wooded, those beyond covered with snow. Here was no stupid
+Escorial facing in to a blank wall. The old masters with vivifying
+imaginations had brought the glories of nature to worship<a name="page_422" id="page_422"></a> with them,
+had hung as it were in their porch, this lovely landscape.</p>
+
+<p>Within the Cathedral the first impression is its spaciousness. The width
+is astonishing; indeed the hall-like nave of Gerona is the widest Gothic
+vault in Christendom, and were it longer by two bays, no cathedral of
+Europe could have surpassed the effect. The wide nave of Catalan
+churches is a national feature that here reaches its acme. The choir of
+Gerona is on a smaller scale, and the meeting of the two makes a curious
+feature, not bad inside, but in the exterior view extremely ugly.
+Probably in time the choir would have been enlarged to fit its monstrous
+nave. The men in those days started undertakings as if they could never
+die, but later generations have lacked their enthusiastic ambition.</p>
+
+<p>By happy chance we were in time to assist at a last High Mass in a
+Spanish cathedral. It is no exaggeration to say one's heart felt heavy
+in listening to the solemn chanting, watching the reverence of priests,
+acolytes, and congregation, to realize that this was for the last time.
+The last time we should see the kiss of peace carried symbolically from
+the priest at the altar to the canons in the choir, the last time we
+should hear the clamor of the wheel of bells. I looked up to where they
+hung on the wall and nodded them a little personal farewell, so often
+had they<a name="page_423" id="page_423"></a> charmed me. Farewell to sedate Spanish piety, to the
+devotional unconsciousness of individual prayer. Over the frontier,
+during the coming summer at Luchon, I was soon to hear wooden signals
+clapped during Mass to guide the wandering attention of the people, to
+see the children scamper out in obvious relief.</p>
+
+<p>The chancel of Gerona is a gem. The iron <i>reja</i> that shuts in the
+<i>capilla mayor</i> is of the plainest, like a wall of stacked spears
+guarding the holy of holies. There is no towering <i>retablo</i>, which would
+be out of character with slender Catalan piers; instead, behind the
+altar is a marvelous reredos of silver carved in scenes, and surmounted
+by three Byzantine processional crosses,&mdash;all ancient and priceless
+enough to be the treasure of a national museum. The altar and the canopy
+over it are also of silver, <i>retablo</i> and altar being placed where they
+now stand in 1346. The effect of iron <i>reja</i> and precious shrine is
+faultlessly artistic; we sigh here for a beauty as completely lost for
+our copying as is the tranquil perfection of these gravestones, the
+sculptured stelæ of Athens.</p>
+
+<p>The service over, we proceeded to examine the church. The cloisters are
+oddly irregular in shape, and look out on the snow-topped Pyrenees. So
+beautiful was the prospect that I added this cloister setting to the
+dream-cathedral Spain<a name="page_424" id="page_424"></a> tempts one to build. It would have the cloisters
+of Tarragona with this outlook of Gerona's; also Gerona's altar and
+<i>retablo</i>, though the reredos of Avila and that of Tarragona are worthy
+rivals. There would be the grand staircase of this Cathedral, and it
+would ascend to a western portal like León's, with Santiago's <i>Pórtico
+de la Gloria</i> within; the north and south doors would be Plateresque
+from Salamanca and Valladolid. The cathedral would be set on Lérida's
+crag, with the city of Toledo climbing to it and the Tagus churning
+below. The nave would be Seville's, and Seville's windows would light it
+and her organ thunder there. The choir would be Toledo's, carved by
+Rodrigo, Berruguete, and Vigarni, the chancel Barcelona's stilted
+arches. How they could be combined is hard to solve, but round this
+<i>capilla mayor</i> would run the double ambulatory of Toledo, and the apse
+outside have León's flying buttresses,&mdash;the apse which the old mystics
+held as symbolic of the crown of thorns about the head of Christ (the
+Altar). <i>Rejas</i> from Burgos, Granada, Seville, would guard the chapels,
+and tombs of knights and bishops from Sigüenza, from Zamora&mdash;from every
+town of Spain in fact&mdash;would line the walls: tapestries and treasures
+from Saragossa; a <i>via crucis</i> by Hernández and portrait statues by
+Montañés; a sacristy like that of<a name="page_425" id="page_425"></a> Avila; a <i>sala capitular</i> copied from
+the Renaissance grace of San Benito in Alcántara; and a wealth of side
+chapels,&mdash;a Condestable chapel, a San Isidoro, a Cámera Santa, a San
+Millán, a Santa María la Blanca, and an isolated shrine like Palencia's,
+standing in the ambulatory. And always beneath the vault of this
+cathedral would be found far-off little Lugo's solemn adoration, and
+there would be processions as imposing as Andalusia, with the piety of
+Estremadura, or the Basque. The Giralda, built in the warm red stone of
+Astorga tower, would stand close by, and not far away, a monastery, line
+for line, like Poblet. Sitting in a Spanish cloister looking out on the
+Pyrenees, one drifts into dream-pictures of the ideal cathedral.</p>
+
+<p>Gerona has a few other churches worth examining, that of San Feliu, with
+two Roman sarcophagi and several early Christian ones with wave-like
+lines. We rambled about the plaza where a fair was in progress, and at
+every turning kept bidding farewell to familiar scenes of Spanish life;
+we were not again to hear the peace-bringing "<i>Vaya Usted con Dios!</i>"
+not again to assent to the cordial "<i>Hasta luego!</i>"</p>
+
+<p>The city is massively built, but it has a battered look, and no wonder.
+During the French invasion, Gerona stood a siege as terrific as any in
+history, yet who of us has heard of it? In<a name="page_426" id="page_426"></a> May, 1809, a French army
+surrounded the city where there were only three thousand soldiers for
+the defense, yet for seven months the town defied the invaders, and that
+with half a dozen breaches in the walls. The women shouldered guns and
+drilled in a battalion formed by Doña Lucía Fitzgerald; old men and
+children piled up the earth of the ramparts; cloistered nuns, at a
+higher call, left their convents to nurse the wounded to whom they gave
+up their cells, so many priests fell fighting on the walls that no
+services were held in the churches, there was only the burning of
+candles; no one bought or sold, for every shopman was a soldier. When a
+gallant English volunteer died on the ramparts, he exclaimed that he
+lost his life gladly in a cause so just for a nation so heroic.</p>
+
+<p>The French drew closer and closer, and slowly the city starved. The
+hardships endured were incredible. They ate rats and mice, yet no
+thought came of surrender. A hot August dragged by, in September the
+French attacked fiercely and on both sides the men fell like flies. Who
+was the soul of this indomitable fortitude? The order and subordination
+told of a master mind, and Gerona had one, Don Mariano Alvarez de
+Castro, the inflexible governor. He it was who enrolled the women and
+children in the defense; his lofty spirit never wavered, and his<a name="page_427" id="page_427"></a> force
+of character gave him so accepted an authority that he was able to
+direct a hopeless defense without recourse to cruelty. The siege of
+Gerona was not stained by any brutal act.</p>
+
+<p>The blockade drew closer. By October literally all food was gone, and
+the people began to fall in the streets to a foe more terrible than
+bullets. Governor Alvarez stood like a rock of courage. When he passed
+up the Cathedral steps where the heart-rending groups of the dying lay,
+his very presence gave hope: if there was a faint-hearted citizen in
+Gerona, he was more afraid of that iron man than of the French. Never
+would the governor have yielded, but toward the close of the year he
+fell ill in the infested air, and as he lay in delirium the city
+capitulated. With hundreds of dead bodies lying unburied in the streets,
+there was nothing else to be done.</p>
+
+<p>Then followed a scene which did honor to the invader; it rings with the
+same chivalry that Velasquez painted in the "Surrender of Breda," where
+Spínola bends to meet the conquered Nassau, the same spirit that made
+those Frenchmen of an earlier day carry a certain wounded knight, their
+prisoner, on a litter from Pamplona across the mountains to his castle
+of Loyola. The foreign troops marched into Gerona in a dead silence,
+with not a gesture of<a name="page_428" id="page_428"></a> triumph, moved to awe by the corpses that covered
+the pavements and to reverence by the few hollow-eyed, living skeletons
+that met them. The moral victory lay with the conquered. When food was
+offered the starved people, even that was at first refused. Don Mariano
+Alvarez, taken prisoner on his bed, died mysteriously, poisoned, some
+say, in the fortress of Figueras not long after. And all this horror and
+heroism was only a hundred years ago!&mdash;we too walked the streets of
+Gerona in silent reverence.</p>
+
+<p>Then once again on the train; more volcanic hills, more dry rivers that
+showed what the spring torrents must be like, and in a few hours
+Port-Bou, the Spanish frontier town, was reached. We stood at the car
+window looking out sadly on the last of Spain as the train swept round
+the blue inlets of the Mediterranean.</p>
+
+<p>Farewell to this great Christian democracy where the simple title of Don
+is borne by king and people alike, to the "nation least material of
+Europe," farewell to a grave, contented race, whose leaders left noble
+works as noble as their lives, whose writers were soldiers and heroes,
+where artists prepared for religious scenes by fasting and prayers,
+where mystics were not negative and inert, but emerged from their union
+with God with more power for practical life, whose women have by
+instinct the dignity of<a name="page_429" id="page_429"></a> womanhood, untainted yet by luxury, a land that
+can boast the two first women of all ages and countries, an Isabella of
+Castile, and a St. Teresa.</p>
+
+<p>Some may think I carry admiration too far. Carping criticism of Spain
+has been pushed to such an extent that it is time to swing to the other
+side: where there can be no joy, no admiration, there can be no
+stimulus. I like to take M. René Bazin's words as if addressed to me:
+"Vous avez raison de croire à la vitalité de l'Espagne. Elle n'a jamais
+été une nation déchue, elle a été une nation blessée."</p>
+
+<p>A wounded nation but not one stricken to death. She is recovering. Let
+her but be patient and aspire slowly; disciplined, tried in the fire and
+purified, by living without the ceaseless upheavals of the past century,
+by industry, by commerce, with no encumbering colonies to drain her
+blood, with the Catalans calling the Castilians "<i>paisanos</i>," she will
+get back her former strength and <i>brio</i>. Her literature, her art, are
+lifting their heads.</p>
+
+<p>My prayer for Spain in her rehabilitation is, that she may not diverge
+from her national spirit and traditions, may modern ideas not change her
+unworldliness and her stoical endurance, "<i>su esencia inmortal y su
+propio carácter</i>." May she guard her faith, her glory in the past and
+her<a name="page_430" id="page_430"></a> aspiration for the future, the faith of the Cross that has struck
+deeper root here than in any spot on earth, but remembering always that
+her own greatest saint warns her: "In the spiritual life not to advance
+is to go back." May she never lose the virile independence of character
+that so distinguishes her people, the pride of simple manhood that looks
+out of the eyes of her honorable peasantry and makes their innate
+courtesy. No nation was ever formed so completely by the chivalry of the
+Middle Ages as Spain. May she always be <i>España la heróica</i>!<a name="page_431" id="page_431"></a></p>
+
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2>
+
+<p class="c"><a href="#A">A</a>,
+<a href="#B">B</a>,
+<a href="#C">C</a>,
+<a href="#D">D</a>,
+<a href="#E">E</a>,
+<a href="#F">F</a>,
+<a href="#G">G</a>,
+<a href="#H">H</a>,
+<a href="#I">I</a>,
+<a href="#J">J</a>,
+<a href="#L">L</a>,
+<a href="#M">M</a>,
+<a href="#N">N</a>,
+<a href="#O">O</a>,
+<a href="#P">P</a>,
+<a href="#Q">Q</a>,
+<a href="#R">R</a>,
+<a href="#S">S</a>,
+<a href="#T">T</a>,
+<a href="#U">U</a>,
+<a href="#V">V</a>,
+<a href="#W">W</a>,
+<a href="#X">X</a>,
+<a href="#Y">Y</a>,
+<a href="#Z">Z</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="A" id="A"></a>Acuña, tomb of Bishop, <a href="#page_040">40</a>, <a href="#page_041">41</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Africa, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_086">86</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a>, <a href="#page_409">409</a>, <a href="#page_416">416</a>, <a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ajustina of Aragon ("Maid of Saragossa"), <a href="#page_381">381</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alacón, Pedro Antonio de, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_335">335</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alas, Leopoldo, <a href="#page_093">93</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alba de Tormes, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a>, <a href="#page_205">205-210</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Albertus Magnus, <a href="#page_414">414</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alcalá de Henares, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_067">67</a>, <a href="#page_073">73</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alcántara, <a href="#page_359">359-364</a>, <a href="#page_394">394</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alcántara, St. Peter of, <a href="#page_199">199</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alfonso II, <i>el Casto</i>, <a href="#page_090">90</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alfonso VI, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alfonso VIII, <i>él de las Navas</i>, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_084">84</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alfonso X, <i>el sabio</i>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_291">291</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alfonso XI, <a href="#page_250">250</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alfonso XII, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a>, <a href="#page_343">343</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alfonso XIII, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a>, <a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a>, <a href="#page_291">291</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>, <a href="#page_351">351</a>,
+<a href="#page_355">355</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alhambra, the, <a href="#page_086">86</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_265">265-272</a>, <a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Almohades, the, <a href="#page_088">88</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Almoravides, the, <a href="#page_088">88</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Altamira y Crevea, Sr. Rafael, <a href="#page_327">327</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alva, Duke of, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Alvarez de Castro, Mariano, <a href="#page_426">426</a>, <a href="#page_427">427</a>, <a href="#page_428">428</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Amadeus I (Duke of Aosta), <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">America, the U. S. of, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_016">16</a>, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_041">41</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a>, <a href="#page_397">397</a>,
+<a href="#page_411">411</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">America, South, <a href="#page_090">90</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a>, <a href="#page_248">248</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_366">366</a>, <a href="#page_395">395</a>,
+<a href="#page_397">397</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Amicis, Edmondo de, <a href="#page_259">259</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Amiens, cathedral of, <a href="#page_081">81</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Andalusia, <a href="#page_002">2</a>, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, 257
+<a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_316">316</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a>, <a href="#page_343">343</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Aquinas, St. Thomas, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_414">414</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Aragon, <a href="#page_079">79</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a>, <a href="#page_375">375-384</a>, <a href="#page_391">391</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Architecture, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_036">36</a>, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_043">43</a>, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a>, <a href="#page_081">81</a>, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_295">295</a>, <a href="#page_385">385</a>,
+<a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_400">400</a>, <a href="#page_403">403</a>, <a href="#page_421">421</a>. <i>See</i> Gothic, Romanesque, Plateresque</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Arenal, Doña Concepción, <a href="#page_133">133</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Arfe family, the de, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Armory, Madrid, the Royal, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_228">228</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Arroyo, <a href="#page_360">360</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Astorga, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_113">113-116</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Asturias, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_079">79-103</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Asturias, Prince of, <a href="#page_084">84</a>, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_288">288</a>, <a href="#page_291">291</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Athens, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_423">423</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Augustine, St., <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Augustus Cæsar, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_392">392</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Averroës, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Avila, <a href="#page_006">6</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_195">195-212</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Azcoitia, <a href="#page_014">14</a>, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_023">23</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Azpeitia, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_030">30</a>, <a href="#page_031">31</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="B" id="B"></a>Baalbec, ruins of, <a href="#page_353">353</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bacon, Lord, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_069">69</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bailén, battle of, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_380">380</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Balearic Islands, 415<a name="page_432" id="page_432"></a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Balmes y Uspia, Jaime, <a href="#page_210">210</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Baltazar Carlos, infante, Don, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_221">221</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Balzac, Honoré de, <a href="#page_327">327</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Barcelona, <a href="#page_007">7</a>, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_345">345</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a>, <a href="#page_394">394</a>, <a href="#page_395">395-419</a>, <a href="#page_421">421</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Basque Provinces, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_013">13-32</a>, <a href="#page_036">36</a>, <a href="#page_079">79</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bazán, Doña Emilia Pardo, <i>see</i> Pardo Bazán</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bazin, M. René, <a href="#page_079">79</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>, <a href="#page_429">429</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Becerra, Gaspar, <a href="#page_115">115</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bécquer, Gustavo Adolfo, <a href="#page_256">256</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bembo, Pietro, Cardinal, <a href="#page_251">251</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Benedict XIV, <a href="#page_136">136</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Benedictine rule, the, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_049">49</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_389">389</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Benson, Rev. Robert Hugh, <a href="#page_188">188</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Berruguete, Alonso de, <a href="#page_044">44</a>, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, <i>illustration</i> <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>,
+<a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bidassoa, river, <a href="#page_015">15</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bilbao, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_412">412</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Blasco Ibáñez, Vicente, <a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Boabdil, <a href="#page_227">227</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bobadilla, <a href="#page_002">2</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bonaventura, St., <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_414">414</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Borgia, St. Francis (de Borja), <a href="#page_021">21</a>, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_030">30</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>,
+<a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Borromeo, St. Charles, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Borrow, George, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_283">283</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Boston, U. S. A., <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bourbon kings in Spain, the, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>, <a href="#page_367">367</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Briz, Francisco Pelayo, <a href="#page_411">411</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Browning, Robert, <a href="#page_034">34</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Brunetière, Ferdinand, <a href="#page_337">337</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Budé, Guillaume, <a href="#page_028">28</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Byron, Lord, <a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_381">381</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Byzantine Influences in Spanish Art, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>, <a href="#page_403">403</a>, <a href="#page_423">423</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Bull-fight, the, <a href="#page_011">11</a>, <a href="#page_016">16</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_309">309</a>, <a href="#page_358">358</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Burgos, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_033">33-54</a>, <a href="#page_055">55</a>, <a href="#page_056">56</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_092">92</a>, <a href="#page_095">95</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="C" id="C"></a>Caballero, Fernán, <i>pseud</i> (Doña Cecelia B. von F. de Arrom), <a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_343">343</a>, <a href="#page_411">411</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cáceres, <a href="#page_356">356</a>, <a href="#page_357">357</a>, <a href="#page_358">358</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a>, <a href="#page_362">362</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_369">369</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cadiz, <a href="#page_007">7</a>, <a href="#page_071">71</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_316">316-325</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Calatyud, <a href="#page_376">376</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Calderón de la Barca, Pedro, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Calvin, John, <a href="#page_068">68</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Campion, Edmund, <a href="#page_068">68</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Campoamor, Ramón de, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_274">274</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cano, Alonzo, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_061">61</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cano, Melchor, <a href="#page_153">153</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cantabrian mountains, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_084">84</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_124">124</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>, <a href="#page_348">348</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Carmelite Order, the, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Carmona, Salvador, <i>see</i> <i>illustration</i> <a href="#page_327">327</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Carr, Sir John, <a href="#page_381">381</a>, <a href="#page_382">382</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Castelar y Ripoll, Emilio, <a href="#page_179">179</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Castile, <a href="#page_006">6</a>, <a href="#page_012">12</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_035">35</a>, <a href="#page_036">36</a>, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_040">40</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a>, <a href="#page_055">55</a>, <a href="#page_079">79</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>,
+<a href="#page_196">196</a>, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a>, <a href="#page_212">212</a>, <a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_229">229</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_257">257</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a>,
+<a href="#page_397">397</a>, <a href="#page_411">411</a>, <a href="#page_429">429</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Catalan language, <a href="#page_409">409</a>, <a href="#page_414">414</a>, <a href="#page_418">418</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Catalan question, <a href="#page_409">409-414</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Catalonia, <a href="#page_003">3</a>, <a href="#page_079">79</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a>, <a href="#page_385">385</a>, <a href="#page_388">388</a>, <a href="#page_391">391</a>, <a href="#page_392">392</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a>, <a href="#page_397">397</a>,
+<a href="#page_400">400</a>, <a href="#page_404">404</a>, <a href="#page_405">405</a>, <a href="#page_409">409</a>, <a href="#page_410">410</a>, <a href="#page_411">411</a>, <a href="#page_412">412</a>, <a href="#page_414">414</a>, <a href="#page_419">419</a>, <a href="#page_421">421</a>, <a href="#page_429">429</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">
+Cathedrals, Spanish, <a href="#page_038">38</a>, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_043">43</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_404">404</a>, <a href="#page_421">421</a>, <a href="#page_422">422</a>, <a href="#page_423">423</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Avila</i>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Astorga</i>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Barcelona</i>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_403">403</a>, <a href="#page_404">404</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Burgos</i>, <a href="#page_036">36-48</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Cadiz</i>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Cordova</i>, <a href="#page_261">261-265</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Gerona</i>, <a href="#page_421">421-424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Grenada</i>, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>León</i>, <a href="#page_047">47</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_108">108-111</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Lérida</i>, <a href="#page_385">385</a>, <a href="#page_387">387</a>, <a href="#page_388">388</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Lugo</i>, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a>, <a href="#page_124">124</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Oviedo</i>, <a href="#page_092">92</a>, <a href="#page_093">93</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Palencia</i>, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Santiago</i>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>. <a href="#page_130">130-133</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Salamanca</i>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_146">146-148</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Saragossa</i>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_376">376</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.<a name="page_433" id="page_433"></a></span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Seville</i>, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a>, <a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>, <a href="#page_293">293-315</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Segovia</i>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_167">167</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Sigüenza</i>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_374">374</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Tarragona</i>, <a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Toledo</i>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_232">232-238</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Valladolid</i>, <a href="#page_056">56</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Zamora</i>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, 424</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Catherine of Aragon, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cavadonga, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_086">86</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_406">406</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cellini, Benvenuto, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cervantes Saavedra, Miguel de, <a href="#page_069">69</a>, <a href="#page_072">72-78</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>,
+<a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Charles I of England, <a href="#page_165">165</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Charles V (Charles I of Spain), Emperor, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_039">39</a>, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>,
+<a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_366">366</a>, <a href="#page_367">367</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Charles II, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_221">221</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Charles IV, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_175">175</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Chartres, Cathedral of, <a href="#page_081">81</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_400">400</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Chartreuse, La Grande, <a href="#page_024">24</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Chesterton, Mr. Gilbert K., <a href="#page_100">100</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">
+Churches, Spanish:<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Alcántara</i>; S. Benito, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Asturias</i>; S. M. de Naranco, <a href="#page_095">95</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a>, <a href="#page_403">403</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Miguel de Lino, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_403">403</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Avila</i>; Encarnación, convent of, <a href="#page_197">197</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. José, convent of, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Segundo, <a href="#page_205">205</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Son soles, hermitage of, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Tomás, <a href="#page_197">197</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Barcelona</i>; S. Ana, <a href="#page_403">403</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. M. del Mar, <a href="#page_403">403</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. M. del Pino, <a href="#page_403">403</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Pablo del Campo, <a href="#page_403">403</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Burgos</i>; Las Huelgas, convent of, <a href="#page_049">49</a>, <a href="#page_050">50</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Miraflores, convent of, <a href="#page_048">48</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Lermes, <a href="#page_047">47</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Nicolás, <a href="#page_046">46</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Cadiz</i>; S. Felipe Neri, <a href="#page_071">71</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Capuchin church, <a href="#page_323">323</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Gerona</i>; S. Feliu, <a href="#page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Granada</i>; S. Gerónimo, <a href="#page_270">270</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Madrid</i>; S. Isidro, <a href="#page_057">57</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>León</i>; S. Isidoro, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Marcos, <a href="#page_111">111</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Salamanca</i>; S. Esteban, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Espíritu Santo, <a href="#page_153">153</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Seville</i>; S. Magdalena, <a href="#page_314">314</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Omnium Sanctorum, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Paula, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Marcos, <a href="#page_281">281</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">University Church, <a href="#page_371">371</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Segovia</i>; S. Martín, <a href="#page_166">166</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Millán, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Toledo</i>; S. Bartolomé, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Cristo de la Luz, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Cristo de la Vega, <a href="#page_256">256</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Domingo, <a href="#page_235">235</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. M. la Blanca, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Juan de los Reyes, <a href="#page_239">239</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Pedro Mártir, <a href="#page_252">252</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Tomé, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">El Tránsito, <a href="#page_231">231</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Valladolid</i>; S. Cruz, <a href="#page_059">59</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. M. la Antigua, <a href="#page_057">57</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Gregorio, <a href="#page_059">59</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">S. Pablo, 59</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Churriguera, José de, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Churrigueresque Architecture, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, <a href="#page_376">376</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cid Campeador, the, <a href="#page_050">50-54</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Clavijo, battle of, <a href="#page_047">47</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Coloma, Padre Luis, <a href="#page_343">343</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Colonna, Vittoria, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Columbus, Christopher (Cristóbal Colón), <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_078">78</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_301">301</a>,
+<a href="#page_395">395</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Comuneros, uprising of the, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_366">366</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Constantinople, <a href="#page_075">75</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>, <a href="#page_303">303</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Constitutions of Spain, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_176">176-180</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>, <a href="#page_382">382</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cordova, <a href="#page_007">7</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_258">258-265</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Córdova, Gonsalvo de, <i>Gran Capitán</i>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cortés, Hernán, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Coruña, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_412">412</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cranmer, Thomas, Archbishop, <a href="#page_068">68</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Crashaw, Richard, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Creighton, Mandell, Bishop, <a href="#page_064">64</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Cromwell, Oliver, <a href="#page_065">65</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="D" id="D"></a>Dante Alighieri, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_414">414</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Daoiz, Luis, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Darro, river, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Democracy, Spanish, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_049">49</a>, <a href="#page_073">73</a>, <a href="#page_092">92</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a>,<a name="page_434" id="page_434"></a> <a href="#page_202">202</a>,
+<a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_284">284</a>, <a href="#page_309">309</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a>, <a href="#page_345">345</a>, <a href="#page_355">355</a>, <a href="#page_358">358</a>, <a href="#page_382">382</a>, <a href="#page_392">392</a>, <a href="#page_428">428</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Descartes, René, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_418">418</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Deza, Diego de, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Dickens, Charles, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Domenech, Sr. Rafael, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Dominic, St. (de Guzmán), <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_414">414</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Dominican Order, the, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_197">197</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_248">248</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">"Don Quixote," <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_075">75</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_077">77</a>, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_092">92</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a>,
+<a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a>, <a href="#page_335">335</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>, <a href="#page_354">354</a>, <a href="#page_374">374</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind"><i>Dos de Mayo</i> (May <a href="#page_002">2</a>, 1808), <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a>, <a href="#page_380">380</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Douro, river, <a href="#page_117">117</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Dupanloup, Félix Antoine, Mgr., <a href="#page_189">189</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Dürer, Albrecht, <a href="#page_356">356</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Durham, <a href="#page_229">229</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="E" id="E"></a>Ebro, river, <a href="#page_376">376</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Edward I, of England, <a href="#page_049">49</a>, <a href="#page_084">84</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Edward VI, of England, <a href="#page_068">68</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Egypt, <a href="#page_035">35</a>, <a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Elche, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_310">310</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Eleanor Plantagenet, Queen of Spain, <a href="#page_049">49</a>, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_374">374</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">El Greco (Domenikos Theotokopoulos), <a href="#page_215">215</a>, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Elizabeth of England (Tudor), <a href="#page_063">63</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ellis, Mr. Henry Havelock, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Emmet, Dr. Thos. Addis, <a href="#page_066">66</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">England, the English, <a href="#page_006">6</a>, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_040">40</a>, <a href="#page_063">63</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_084">84</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a>,
+<a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_175">175</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, <a href="#page_316">316</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a>, <a href="#page_398">398</a>, <a href="#page_405">405</a>, <a href="#page_406">406</a>, <a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">English College, Valladolid, <a href="#page_062">62</a>, <a href="#page_063">63</a>, <a href="#page_071">71</a>, <a href="#page_072">72</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Erasmus, Desiderius, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Escorial, the, <a href="#page_056">56</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a>, <a href="#page_213">213-219</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_421">421</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Eslava, Miguel Hilarión, <a href="#page_302">302</a>, <a href="#page_315">315</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Espartero, General, <a href="#page_178">178</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Espluga, <a href="#page_389">389</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Estremadura, <a href="#page_007">7</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_351">351-368</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Eugénie, Empress, <a href="#page_114">114</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Eyck, Jan van, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="F" id="F"></a>Ferdinand I, <i>el Magno</i>, <a href="#page_116">116</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ferdinand III, <i>el Santo</i>, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ferdinand V, <i>el Católico</i>, <a href="#page_019">19</a>, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ferdinand VII, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_381">381</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Feijóo y Montenegro, Benito Gerónimo, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Fernán Caballero, <i>see</i> Caballero</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Feuillet, Octave, <a href="#page_371">371</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Figueras, <a href="#page_428">428</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Fisher, John, Bishop, <a href="#page_068">68</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Fitzmaurice-Kelley, Mr. James, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_193">193</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Flaubert, Gustave, <a href="#page_346">346</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ford, Richard, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Fortuny, Mariano, <a href="#page_408">408</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Forment Damián, <a href="#page_377">377</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">France, the French, <a href="#page_006">6</a>, <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_046">46</a>, <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a>,
+<a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a>, <a href="#page_397">397</a>, <a href="#page_400">400</a>, <a href="#page_407">407</a>, <a href="#page_410">410</a>, <a href="#page_421">421</a>, <a href="#page_423">423</a>, <a href="#page_427">427</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Francia, Francisco Raibolini, <i>called</i>, <a href="#page_323">323</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Francis of Assisi, St. <a href="#page_047">47</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <i>illustration</i> <a href="#page_327">327</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Franciscan Order, the, <a href="#page_077">77</a>, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_414">414</a>, <a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Francis Borgia, St., <i>see</i> Borgia</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Francis I, of France, <a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Francis de Sales, St., <i>see</i> Sales</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Francis Xavier, St., <i>see</i> Xavier</p>
+
+<p class="nind">French Invasion, the, <a href="#page_035">35</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a>, <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a>,
+<a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>, <a href="#page_335">335</a>, <a href="#page_380">380</a>, <a href="#page_382">382</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a>, <a href="#page_426">426</a>, <a href="#page_427">427</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Froude, James Anthony, <a href="#page_040">40</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="G" id="G"></a>Galdós, Benito Pérez, <i>see</i> Pérez Galdós<a name="page_435" id="page_435"></a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Galicia, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_061">61</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_121">121-141</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_345">345</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gallegos, Fernando, <a href="#page_323">323</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gandía, Duke of, <i>see</i> Borgia, St. Francis</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ganivet, Angel, <a href="#page_022">22</a>, <a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_420">420</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Garcilaso de la Vega, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_250">250-252</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gardner Collection, Boston, Mrs. J. L., <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gaudix, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gautier, Théophile, <a href="#page_020">20</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_295">295</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gener, Sr. Pompeo, <a href="#page_410">410</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Germaine de Foix, Queen of Aragon, <a href="#page_019">19</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_272">272</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Germany, <a href="#page_006">6</a>, <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gerona, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a>, <a href="#page_412">412</a>, <a href="#page_420">420-428</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gibraltar, <a href="#page_002">2</a>, <a href="#page_003">3</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gijón, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_412">412</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Godoy, Manuel, Prince of the Peace, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_175">175</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Goethe, Johan Wolfgang von, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_033">33</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gomez de Castro, Alvaro, <a href="#page_242">242</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Góngora y Argote, Luis de, <a href="#page_252">252</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gothic Architecture, <a href="#page_046">46</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_081">81</a>, <a href="#page_093">93</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>,
+<a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_167">167</a>, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_303">303</a>, <a href="#page_307">307</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_374">374</a>, <a href="#page_385">385</a>, <a href="#page_387">387</a>, <a href="#page_391">391</a>,
+<a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_403">403</a>, <a href="#page_422">422</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Goths, in Spain, the, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_098">98</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>,
+<a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a>, <a href="#page_378">378</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Goya, Francisco, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Granada, <a href="#page_007">7</a>, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_265">265-273</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a>, <a href="#page_406">406</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Granada, Luis de, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gregorovius, Ferdinand, <a href="#page_147">147</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Greece, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_416">416</a>, <a href="#page_423">423</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Guadalajara, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Guadaloupe, <a href="#page_368">368</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Guadalquivir, river, <a href="#page_230">230</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Guadarrama Mountains, <a href="#page_006">6</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_221">221</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind"><i>Guardia Civil</i>, the, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_401">401</a>, <a href="#page_402">402</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Guipúzcoa, <a href="#page_014">14</a>, <a href="#page_015">15</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Guizot, François-Pierre-Guillaume, <a href="#page_070">70</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Guzmán <i>el bueno</i>, <a href="#page_106">106</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Guzmán family, the, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Guzmán, Domingo de, <i>see</i> Dominic, St.</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Gypsies, Spanish, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="H" id="H"></a>Hadrian, Emperor, <a href="#page_281">281</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Hapsburg Kings, in Spain, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>, <a href="#page_367">367</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Hegel, Georg Wilhelm Friedrick, <a href="#page_326">326</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Henry II of England, <a href="#page_084">84</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Henry VII of England, <a href="#page_269">269</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Henry VIII of England, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_085">85</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Hernández, Gregorio, <a href="#page_061">61</a>, <a href="#page_062">62</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Herrera, Fernando de, poet, <a href="#page_252">252</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Herrera, Juan de, architect, <a href="#page_056">56</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_376">376</a>, <a href="#page_408">408</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Hervás y Panduro, Lorenzo, <a href="#page_153">153</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Hobson, Lieut. Richmond Pearson, <a href="#page_370">370</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Hogarth, William, <a href="#page_225">225</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Holy Week in Seville, <a href="#page_302">302-315</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Hugo, Victor, <a href="#page_013">13</a>, <a href="#page_339">339</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Huysmans, Joris-Karl, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>, <a href="#page_385">385</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="I" id="I"></a>Ignatius, St., <i>see</i> Loyola</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Infantado, Duke del, <a href="#page_373">373</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Inquisition, the, <a href="#page_064">64-71</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Invincible Armada, the, <a href="#page_040">40</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_090">90</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ireland, <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Irish College, Salamanca, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Irún, <a href="#page_002">2</a>, <a href="#page_016">16</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Irving, Washington, <a href="#page_086">86</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Isabella I, the Catholic, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>,
+<a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_245">245</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>,
+<a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a>, <a href="#page_402">402</a>, <a href="#page_429">429</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Isabella II, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Isabella of Portugal, Empress, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <i>illustration</i> <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Isidoro, San, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, 319<a name="page_436" id="page_436"></a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Isla, José Francisco de la, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Islamism, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>, <a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_264">264</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Italica, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Italy, the Italians, <a href="#page_005">5</a>, <a href="#page_030">30</a>, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>,
+<a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_334">334</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a>, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>, <a href="#page_408">408</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="J" id="J"></a>Jaime I, <i>el Conquistador</i>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_391">391</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">James, St., apostle, <i>él de España</i>, <a href="#page_097">97</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Jerez de la Frontera, <a href="#page_316">316</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Jerusalem, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a>, <a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_310">310</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a>, <a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Jesuit Order, the, <a href="#page_020">20-32</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_343">343</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Jews in Spain, the, <a href="#page_067">67</a>, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_367">367</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Jimena, wife of the Cid, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Jimenez de Cisneros, <i>see</i> Ximenez</p>
+
+<p class="nind">John of Austria, Don, <a href="#page_073">73</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">John of the Cross, St. (Juan de Yepes), <a href="#page_044">44</a>, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Jordán, Esteban, <a href="#page_060">60</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Joubert, Joseph, <a href="#page_013">13</a>, <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Juana <i>la loca</i>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Juan II, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Juan de la Cruz, San, <i>see</i> John of the Cross</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Juní, Juan de, <a href="#page_060">60</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="L" id="L"></a>Lafayette, General de, <a href="#page_016">16</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">La Granja, <a href="#page_168">168</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lainez, Diego, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lancaster, John of Gaunt, Duke of, <a href="#page_084">84</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lannes, Jean, Marshall, <a href="#page_382">382</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Larra, Mariano José de, <a href="#page_036">36</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Las Huelgas, convent of, <a href="#page_049">49</a>, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Las Casas, Bartolomé de, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_248">248</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lea, Henry Charles, <a href="#page_070">70</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lebrija, Doña Francisca de, <a href="#page_342">342</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lee, Robert E., General, <a href="#page_064">64</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Legazpi, Miguel Lopez de, <a href="#page_018">18</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Leibnitz, Gottfried Wilhelm von, <a href="#page_194">194</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lenormant, Charles, <a href="#page_070">70</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">León, city of, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_106">106-113</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">León, province of, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_014">14</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_104">104-120</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">León, Luis de, <a href="#page_044">44</a>, <a href="#page_068">68</a>, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_154">154-157</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Leonado da Vinci, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lepanto, Battle of, <a href="#page_073">73</a>, <a href="#page_075">75</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lérida, <a href="#page_335">335-388</a>, <a href="#page_412">412</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lilly, Mr. W. S., <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_183">183</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Llorente, Juan Antonio, <a href="#page_065">65</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lockhart, James Gibson, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_053">53</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lombardy, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_400">400</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">London, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_316">316</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lorraine, Claude Gelée, <i>called</i> Claude, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Loti, M. Pierre, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Louis IX of France, St., <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a>, <a href="#page_416">416</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Louis Philippe of France, <a href="#page_177">177</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lowell, James Russell, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_395">395</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Loyola, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_016">16</a>, <a href="#page_019">19-32</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Loyola, St. Ignatius, <a href="#page_017">17</a>, <a href="#page_019">19-32</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a>, <a href="#page_394">394</a>, <a href="#page_403">403</a>,
+<a href="#page_415">415</a>, <a href="#page_427">427</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lucca, <a href="#page_017">17</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lucero, Diego Rodríguez de, inquisitor, <a href="#page_245">245</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lugo, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_122">122-125</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lull, Ramón (Raimundo Lulio), <a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_395">395</a>, <a href="#page_414">414-418</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Luna, Alvaro de, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Lusitania, <a href="#page_352">352</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Luther, Martin, <a href="#page_192">192</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="M" id="M"></a>Macaulay, Thomas Babbington, <a href="#page_191">191</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Madrid, <a href="#page_002">2</a>, <a href="#page_006">6</a>, <a href="#page_007">7</a>, <a href="#page_077">77</a>, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a>,
+<a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_219">219-228</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_277">277</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>, <a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a>,
+<a href="#page_355">355</a>, <a href="#page_369">369-372</a>, <a href="#page_410">410</a>, <a href="#page_412">412</a>, 419<a name="page_437" id="page_437"></a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Maimonides, Moses, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Maistre, Joseph de, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Málaga, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mallock, Mr. W. H., <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_210">210</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Manresa, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_394">394</a>, <a href="#page_403">403</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Manrique, Jorge, <a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mantegna, Andrea, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Maragatos, the, <a href="#page_115">115</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Marcus Aurelius, <a href="#page_242">242</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mariana, Juan de, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Maria Cristina of Austria, Queen-Dowager, Doña, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Martial, <a href="#page_376">376</a>, <a href="#page_392">392</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Martyr, Peter, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_272">272</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mary I of England (Tudor), <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_068">68</a>, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Masaccio, Tommaso Guidi, <i>called</i>, <a href="#page_110">110</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mateo, Maestro, <a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_132">132</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mecca, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_263">263</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Medinaceli, family of, <a href="#page_290">290</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Medina del Campo, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Medrano, Doña Lucía de, <a href="#page_342">342</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Melanchthon, Philipp, <a href="#page_068">68</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Memling, Hans, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mena, Juan de, <a href="#page_250">250</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mendoza, family of, <a href="#page_047">47</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mendoza, Diego Hurtado de, <a href="#page_252">252</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mendoza, Pedro Gonzales, Cardinal, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_374">374</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Menéndez y Pelayo, Marcelino, <a href="#page_067">67</a>, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_348">348-350</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Meredith, George, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_055">55</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mérida, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_352">352-356</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Messina, <a href="#page_074">74</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Michelangelo Buonarroti, <a href="#page_060">60</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mino da Fiesole, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_132">132</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Miño, river, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_124">124</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Miraflores, Monastery of, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mistral, Federi, <a href="#page_418">418</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Monforte, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Montañés, Juan Martinez, <a href="#page_044">44</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Montesquieu, Charles, <a href="#page_326">326</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Montserrat, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_394">394</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Monzón, <a href="#page_384">384</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Moore, Sir John, <a href="#page_125">125</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Moors, the, <a href="#page_003">3</a>, <a href="#page_013">13</a>, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_051">51</a>, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_067">67</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_086">86</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>,
+<a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>,
+<a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_258">258-270</a>, <a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a>, <a href="#page_304">304</a>, <a href="#page_313">313</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_367">367</a>, <a href="#page_369">369</a>,
+<a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a>, <a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Moorish Art, <a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_294">294</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Moriscos, Expulsion of the, <a href="#page_086">86</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_090">90</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">More, Sir Thomas, <a href="#page_068">68</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Moro, Antonio, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Motley, John Lothrop, <a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_380">380</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mozarabic Mass, the, <a href="#page_235">235-238</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mudéjar Architecture, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Müller, Prof. Friederich Max, <a href="#page_153">153</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Murat, Joachim, Marshall, <a href="#page_380">380</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Murcia, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban, <a href="#page_044">44</a>, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_293">293</a>, <a href="#page_298">298</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>,
+<a href="#page_370">370</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Mystics, Spanish, <a href="#page_010">10</a>, <a href="#page_011">11</a>, <a href="#page_012">12</a>, <a href="#page_022">22</a>, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a>,
+<a href="#page_212">212</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a>, <a href="#page_414">414</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a>, <a href="#page_428">428</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="N" id="N"></a>Napier, Sir Wm. F. P., <a href="#page_172">172</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Naples, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>, <a href="#page_397">397</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Napoleon I, <a href="#page_035">35</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_382">382</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Navarre, <a href="#page_014">14</a>, <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_079">79</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Navas de Tolosa, battle of, Las, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Nelson, Horatio, Admiral, <a href="#page_370">370</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Neri, St. Philip, <a href="#page_031">31</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Newbolt, Mr. Henry, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_413">413</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">New England, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_361">361</a>, <a href="#page_397">397</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Novels, Modern Spanish, <a href="#page_093">93</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_326">326-350</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Núñez de Arce, Gaspar, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="O" id="O"></a>O'Donnell y Jorris, General Leopoldo, <a href="#page_178">178</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Olivares, Conde Duque de, <a href="#page_221">221</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ommiade dynasty, the, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, 89<a name="page_438" id="page_438"></a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Oran, siege of, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ordoño II of León, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">O'Reilly, Count Alexander, <a href="#page_178">178</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ormsby, John, <a href="#page_051">51</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Osuna, Duke of, <a href="#page_047">47</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Oviedo, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_079">79</a>, <a href="#page_090">90-103</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Oxford, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_068">68</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="P" id="P"></a>Padilla, Juan de, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_257">257</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Paestum, ruins of, <a href="#page_353">353</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Palafox, Count José, <a href="#page_380">380</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Palatinate, the, <a href="#page_243">243</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Palencia, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_079">79</a>, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Palestine, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a>, <a href="#page_416">416</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Palma, <a href="#page_415">415</a>, <a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Palos, <a href="#page_320">320</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pamplona, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_030">30</a>, <a href="#page_427">427</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pancorbo, Pass of, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_035">35</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pardo Bazán, Doña Emilia, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_343">343-345</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Paris, <a href="#page_001">1</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Parma, <a href="#page_323">323</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Parmigianino, Mazzuoli of Parma, <i>called</i>, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Parthenon, the, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pasajes, <a href="#page_016">16</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pascal, Blaise, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Patmore, Coventry, <a href="#page_199">199</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pavia, battle of, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pedro I, <i>el Cruel</i>, <a href="#page_084">84</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pelayo, King, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_090">90</a>, <a href="#page_093">93</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_095">95</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pereda, José María de, <a href="#page_327">327</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a>, <a href="#page_339">339</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>, <a href="#page_350">350</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pérez Galdós, Sr. Benito, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_337">337-340</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Persia, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pescara, Fernando Francisco d'Avalos, Marquis of, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Philip I, <i>el Hermoso</i> (Archduke), <a href="#page_245">245</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Philip II, <a href="#page_075">75</a>, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_291">291</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Philip III, <a href="#page_090">90</a>, <a href="#page_366">366</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Philip IV, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_221">221</a>, <a href="#page_385">385</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Philip V, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Philippines, the, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ph&oelig;nicians in Spain, the, <a href="#page_098">98</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pirates, Moorish, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_367">367</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pizarro, Francisco, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Plateresque Architecture, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_353">353</a>,
+<a href="#page_400">400</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pliny, <a href="#page_392">392</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Poblet, Monastery of, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_388">388-391</a>, <a href="#page_399">399</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Polyglot Bible, the, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pontevedra, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pontius Pilate, <a href="#page_391">391</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Port-Bou, <a href="#page_002">2</a>, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_428">428</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind"><i>Pórtico de la Gloria</i>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Portugal, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_291">291</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>, <a href="#page_349">349</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a>, <a href="#page_361">361</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Prado Gallery,&mdash;Madrid, the, <a href="#page_220">220-226</a>, <a href="#page_369">369-372</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Prescott, W. H., <a href="#page_113">113</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Prim, Juan, General, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Proverbs, Spanish, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, <a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_257">257</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a>,
+<a href="#page_334">334</a>, <a href="#page_360">360</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a>, <a href="#page_413">413</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Pyrenees, the, <a href="#page_015">15</a>, <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_086">86</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a>, <a href="#page_384">384</a>, <a href="#page_420">420</a>, <a href="#page_421">421</a>, <a href="#page_422">422</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="Q" id="Q"></a>Quiñones, Suero de, <a href="#page_114">114</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Quintana, Manuel José, <a href="#page_323">323</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="R" id="R"></a>Ramiro I of Asturias, <a href="#page_095">95</a>, <a href="#page_098">98</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ranke, Leopold von, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_070">70</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Raphael Sanzio, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind"><i>Reconquista</i>, the, <a href="#page_086">86</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Redondela, <a href="#page_137">137</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Rembrandt van Rijn, <a href="#page_221">221</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Renaissance Art in Spain, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>,
+<a href="#page_205">205</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind"><i>Reyes Católicos, los</i>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_357">357</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a>, <a href="#page_395">395</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ribadeneyra, Pedro de, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ribera, José de, <i>Lo Spagnoletto</i>, <a href="#page_225">225</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ripalda, Gerónimo de Martinez de, 153<a name="page_439" id="page_439"></a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ripoll, Abbey of, <a href="#page_394">394</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Rivas, Angel de Sáavedra, Duque de, <a href="#page_332">332</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Roderick, last of the Gothic kings, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Roelas, Juan de las, <a href="#page_225">225</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">"Romancero del Cid," <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_051">51</a>, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Romanesque Architecture in Spain, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a>,
+<a href="#page_132">132</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_385">385</a>, <a href="#page_391">391</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_403">403</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Romanes, George J., <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_351">351</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Roman remains in Spain, <a href="#page_007">7</a>, <a href="#page_047">47</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a>,
+<a href="#page_352">352-356</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a>, <a href="#page_362">362</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_425">425</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Rome, <a href="#page_030">30</a>, <a href="#page_073">73</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_294">294</a>, <a href="#page_305">305</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ruiz de Alarcon, Juan, <a href="#page_327">327</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ruiz y Mendoza, Lieut. Jacinto, <a href="#page_324">324</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="S" id="S"></a>Sainte-Beuve, Charles Augustus de, <a href="#page_077">77</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Saints, Spanish, <i>see headings</i>, Alcántara, Borgia, Dominic, Ferdinand
+III, John of the Cross, Loyola, Xavier, Teresa</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Salamanca, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_142">142-158</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_167">167</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>,
+<a href="#page_205">205</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_298">298</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Sales, St. Francis de, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Salic Law, the, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Salisbury, cathedral of, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Salmerón, Alfonso, <a href="#page_153">153</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind"><i>Sancho Panza</i>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_334">334</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Sancho II, <i>el Fuerte</i>, <a href="#page_116">116</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Sancho IV, <i>el Bravo</i>, <a href="#page_375">375</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">San Sebastián, <a href="#page_016">16</a>, <a href="#page_020">20</a>, <a href="#page_021">21</a>, <a href="#page_022">22</a>, <a href="#page_124">124</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Santander, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>, <a href="#page_348">348</a>, <a href="#page_412">412</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Santayana, Prof. George, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_293">293</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_367">367</a>, <a href="#page_369">369</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Santiago, Compostella, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_122">122</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_130">130-134</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>,
+<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Santiago, knights of, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_374">374</a>, <a href="#page_413">413</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Saragossa, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_376">376-382</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Sassoferrato, Giovanni Battista Salvi, <i>of</i>, <a href="#page_045">45</a>, <a href="#page_376">376</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Schack, Adolf Fred. von, <a href="#page_065">65</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Scott, Sir Walter, <a href="#page_077">77</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Segovia, <a href="#page_006">6</a>, <a href="#page_159">159-182</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind"><i>Seises</i>, dancing of, <i>los</i>, <a href="#page_012">12</a>, <a href="#page_297">297</a>, <a href="#page_298">298</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Seneca, <a href="#page_319">319</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Servet, Miguel, <a href="#page_068">68</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Seville, <a href="#page_007">7</a>, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_274">274-315</a>,
+<a href="#page_323">323</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a>, <a href="#page_345">345</a>, <a href="#page_351">351</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a>, <a href="#page_374">374</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Shakespeare, William, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Sidney, Sir Philip, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Siege of Gerona, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_425">425-428</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Siege of Saragossa, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_380">380-382</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Sierra Nevada, the, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Sigüenza, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a>, <a href="#page_374">374</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a>, <a href="#page_392">392</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Siloe, Gil de, <a href="#page_048">48</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Simancas, Archives of, <a href="#page_067">67</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Soldiers in Spanish literature, <a href="#page_073">73</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a>, <a href="#page_414">414</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Soto, Domingo de, <a href="#page_153">153</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Southwell, Robert, <a href="#page_068">68</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Spencer, Herbert, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_411">411</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Spínola, Marquis, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_322">322</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a>, <a href="#page_427">427</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Stirling-Maxwell, Sir William, <a href="#page_286">286</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Street, George E., <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_385">385</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Suárez, Francisco, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Switzerland, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="T" id="T"></a>Tagus, river, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_229">229</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Talavera, Fernando de, Bishop, <a href="#page_068">68</a>, <a href="#page_244">244</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Tannenberg, M. Boris de, <a href="#page_348">348</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Tarifa, Siege of, <a href="#page_106">106</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Tarragona, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_391">391</a>, <a href="#page_392">392</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a>, <a href="#page_412">412</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Teresa, Saint, <a href="#page_010">10</a>, <a href="#page_044">44</a>, <a href="#page_062">62</a>, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_183">183-212</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a>, <a href="#page_429">429</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Theodosius, Emperor, <a href="#page_281">281</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Theotokopaulos, Domenikos, <i>see</i> El Greco<a name="page_440" id="page_440"></a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Thompson, Francis, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ticknor, George, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_069">69</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Tintoretto, Jocopo Robusti, <i>called</i>, <a href="#page_215">215</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Tirso de Molina (Gabriel Téllez), <a href="#page_327">327</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Titian, Tiziano Vecelli, <i>called</i>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Toledo, <a href="#page_007">7</a>, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_036">36</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, <a href="#page_229">229-257</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Toledo, Archbishops of, <a href="#page_077">77</a>, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Tolstoi, Count Lyoff, <a href="#page_342">342</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Tormes, river, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_206">206</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Tostado, Bishop Alfonso de Madrigal, el, <a href="#page_205">205</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Toulouse, <a href="#page_107">107</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Townsend, Rev. Joseph, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_401">401</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Trajan, Emperor, <a href="#page_164">164</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_356">356</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a>, <a href="#page_362">362</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Trujillo, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_367">367</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="U" id="U"></a>Urraca, of Zamora, Doña, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="V" id="V"></a>Valdés, Sr. Armando Palacio, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_345">345</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Valencia, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_090">90</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Valera y Alcalá Galiano, Juan, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_326">326</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_330">330-336</a>, <a href="#page_339">339</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a>,
+<a href="#page_350">350</a>, <a href="#page_413">413</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Valladolid, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_055">55-78</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Van Dyke, Sir Anthony, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Vargas, Luis de, <a href="#page_297">297</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Vasari, Giorgio, <a href="#page_115">115</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Vega, Garcelaso de la, <i>see</i> Garcilaso</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Vega Carpio, Lope Felix de, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_256">256</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a>, <a href="#page_391">391</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Velarde, Pedro, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Velasco, Pedro Fernández, Constable, <a href="#page_047">47</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Velasquez, Diego de Silva y, <a href="#page_006">6</a>, <a href="#page_045">45</a>, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_221">221</a>, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a>,
+<a href="#page_385">385</a>, <a href="#page_427">427</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Venice, <a href="#page_030">30</a>, <a href="#page_215">215</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Verdaguer, Jacinto, <a href="#page_418">418</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Veronese, Paolo Caliari, <i>called</i>, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Vézinet, Monsieur F., <a href="#page_341">341</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Victoria-Eugenia, Queen of Spain, Doña, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_288">288</a>, <a href="#page_289">289</a>,
+<a href="#page_290">290</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Vigarni, Felipe de, <a href="#page_044">44</a>, <a href="#page_045">45</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Vigo, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_091">91</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Villena, Marqués de, <a href="#page_047">47</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Vives, Juan Luis, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_208">208</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Vincent de Paul, Saint, <a href="#page_191">191</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="W" id="W"></a>Wamba, King, <a href="#page_230">230</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Wars, Carlist, <a href="#page_014">14</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, <a href="#page_389">389</a>, <a href="#page_381">381</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">War, Peninsula, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a>, <a href="#page_379">379-382</a>, <a href="#page_425">425-428</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">War, Spanish-American, <a href="#page_018">18</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Washington, George, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Watson, Mr. William, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_229">229</a>, <a href="#page_396">396</a>, <a href="#page_420">420</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Wellington, Duke of, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Westminster Abbey, <a href="#page_262">262</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a>, <a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Wesley, John, <a href="#page_183">183</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Weyden, Rogier van der, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Women, Spanish, <a href="#page_021">21</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_206">206</a>, <a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a>,
+<a href="#page_277">277</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a>, <a href="#page_295">295</a>, <a href="#page_313">313</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>, <a href="#page_334">334</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>, <a href="#page_354">354</a>, <a href="#page_381">381</a>, <a href="#page_426">426</a>, <a href="#page_428">428</a>, <a href="#page_429">429</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Wood Carvings, Spanish, <a href="#page_043">43</a>, <a href="#page_044">44</a>, <a href="#page_045">45</a>, <a href="#page_046">46</a>, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_061">61</a>, <a href="#page_062">62</a>, <i>illustration</i> <a href="#page_327">327</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Worcester, cathedral, <a href="#page_233">233</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Wordsworth, William, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_379">379</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="X" id="X"></a>Xavier, St. Francis, <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Xerez, <i>see</i> Jerez de la Frontera</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ximena, <i>see</i> Jimena</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Ximenez de Cisneros, Francisco, Cardinal, <a href="#page_028">28</a>, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_236">236-250</a>,
+<a href="#page_272">272</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_366">366</a>, <a href="#page_374">374</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="Y" id="Y"></a>Yuste, Convent of, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_367">367</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="nind"><a name="Z" id="Z"></a>Zamora, <a href="#page_004">4</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_116">116-120</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Zaragoza, <i>see</i> Saragossa</p>
+
+<p class="nind">Zola, Emile, <a href="#page_333">333</a>, <a href="#page_343">343</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Zumárraga, <a href="#page_016">16</a>, <a href="#page_017">17</a></p>
+
+<p class="nind">Zurbaran, Francisco, <a href="#page_044">44</a>, <a href="#page_220">220</a>, 2251<a name="page_441" id="page_441"></a></p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="transcriber"
+style="border:2px dotted black;padding:2%;">
+<tr><th align="center">The following typographical errors have been corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">husbands, husbands to claim their wives.=>husbands to claim their wives.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">folded handerchiefs=>folded handkerchiefs</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">masssive Roman walls=>massive Roman walls</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Leôn Cathedral>León Cathedral</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">direct rout from Paris=>direct route from Paris</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Philip V turned into an artificial French pleasure ground=>Philip V turned it into an artificial French pleasure ground</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">You walk about the Valasquez room bewildered>=You walk about the Velasquez room bewildered</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">one throughly disagreeable=>one thoroughly disagreeable</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Chrismas fiestas began=>Christmas fiestas began</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">á l'état civil=>à l'état civil</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">a politican, and a journalist=>a politician, and a journalist</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">good literary quailty=>good literary quality</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">sense to preceive the best=>sense to perceive the best</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">and to that unforgetable=>and to that unforgettable</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">hotel corrridors would be=>hotel corridors would be</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">where Agustus Cæsar=>where Augustus Cæsar</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">she is too agressive=>she is too aggressive</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Murray's "Handbook"=>Murray's "Hand-book"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Calderon=>Calderón</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Portico=>Pórtico</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Alba de Tormés=>Alba de Tormes</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Oviedo la sacra, Toledo la rica, Sevilla la grande, Salamanaca la
+fuerte, León la bella=>Oviedo la sacra, Toledo la rica, Sevilla la
+grande, Salamanca la fuerte, León la bella</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Parmegianino, Mazzuoli of Parma=>Parmigianino, Mazzuoli of Parma</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">El Greco (Domenikos Theotocopoulos)=>El Greco (Domenikos Theotokopoulos)</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><p class="cb">FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> From the Latin word <i>solum</i>, ground.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> "C'est un pois qui a l'ambition d'être un haricot et qui
+réussit trop bien." T<small>HÉOPHILE</small> G<small>AUTIER</small> "Voyage en Espagne."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> "Las inteligencias más humildas comprenden las ideas más
+elevadas; y los que economizan la verdad y la publican sólo cuando están
+seguros de ser comprendidos viven en grandisimo error, porque la verdad,
+aunque no sea comprendida, ejerce misteriosas influencias y conduce por
+cáminos ocultos a las sublimidades más puras, alas que brotan
+incomprensibles y espontáneas de las almas vulgares."
+</p>
+
+<p class="r">Angel Ganivet: "Idearium Español."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> When the Duke of Osuna, the Spanish Ambassador to England
+in Elizabeth's reign, dropped some pearls of price from his embroidered
+cloak, he disdained to pick them up. A nobler form of Castilian
+haughtiness was that of the Marqués de Villena who, refusing to live in
+his palace after a traitor (the Constable de Bourbon) had been lodged
+there, set fire to it. There is something that appeals to the
+imagination in many of the privileges of Spanish nobles. Thus the
+Marqués de Astorga to-day, is hereditary canon in León Cathedral,
+because one of the Osorios fought in the battle of Clavijo, in 846.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> The blood of the Cid flows to-day in the veins of Alfonso
+XIII through his descent both from the French Bourbons and from Spain's
+earlier royal house. A daughter of the Campeador married an infante of
+Navarre, whose granddaughter married Sancho III of Castile. The son of
+this king was the good and great Alfonso VIII <i>él de las Navas</i>, who,
+married to Eleanor of England (they both lie buried in Las Huelgas), was
+grandfather alike of St. Ferdinand III of Castile and St. Louis IX of
+France.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Translated by Ormsby.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> "Ancient Spanish Ballads," translated by Lockhart.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Llorente, a bitter assailant of the Inquisition, gives the
+number of victims as 31,900. Llorente was traitor to his country during
+the invasion of the French and fled ignominiously on their defeat,
+pensioned during his later years by the freemasons of Paris; he
+falsified Basque history to win the corrupt Godoy's favour (von Ranke's
+statement); an ex-priest he assisted in church robbery. Would Benedict
+Arnold be accepted as an authority on the American Revolution? The
+Encyclopedia Brittanica, even in its ninth edition, has in its sketch on
+Spain, the following curious assertion&mdash;"bigotry and fanaticism which
+led to the destruction of hundreds of thousands of victims at the hands
+of the Inquisition." Even the political victims in the Netherlands under
+the inexorable Alba, who did to death some 18,000 people, cannot swell
+the number to a fraction of this statement. And if the Netherlands'
+victims are to be laid to the door of religious persecution, then must
+the massacres in Ireland of the inexorable Cromwell come under the same
+heading: as an Englishman judges Cromwell apart from his crimes, so a
+Spaniard sees more in Alva than his felonies. History presented to us in
+parallel columns would do much toward giving us fairer views.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Described by an eyewitness, the brave gentlewoman, Mrs.
+Willoughby. See: "English Martyrs," Vol. I and II of the C. T. S.
+Publications: 22 Paternoster Row: London. Dr. Thomas Addis Emmet in
+"Ireland under English Rule" (Putnam's Sons, N. Y. 1903) gives
+occurrences equally terrible.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> I do not mention in this list Archbishop Cranmer and his
+fellow prelates, Latimer and Ridley, since having been persecutors
+themselves they may be said to have reaped under Mary Tudor what they
+had sowed under Edward VI. They were condemned and executed by the laws
+which they had made and put in force against Unitarians and
+Anabaptists.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> H. C. Lea, whose ill-digested mass of facts torn from
+their proper context are as representative of Spain as the accounts of a
+foreigner who had studied only the police reports of America, would be
+of us.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> "L'Inquisition fût, d'abord, plus politique que
+religieuse, et destinée à maintenir l'Ordre plutôt qu'à défendre la
+foi," says the Protestant historian Guizot (Hist. Mod. Lect. II).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Every Spanish child knows the story of Guzmán <i>el bueno</i>
+at Tarifa. The rebel infante threatened to kill Guzmán's son, were the
+city not surrendered, whereupon the hero flung his own knife down from
+the walls; rather the death of him he loved best than disloyalty to his
+trust and king. The boy was killed under his father's eyes.
+</p><p>
+When the tomb of this national hero was opened in 1570, the skeleton
+discovered was nine feet long, just as Jaime I <i>el Conquistador</i>, a
+contemporary of Guzmán, was found to be of gigantic proportions when the
+pantheon of the Aragonese kings in Poblet was sacked in 1835.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> "León Cathedral is indeed in almost every respect worthy
+to be ranked among the noblest churches in Europe. Its detail is rich
+and beautiful throughout, the plan very excellent, the sculptures with
+which it is adorned quite equal in quality and character to that of any
+church of the age, and the stained glass with which its windows are
+filled some of the best in Europe."
+</p>
+
+<p class="r">G. E. S<small>TREET</small>: "Gothic Architecture in Spain."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> "Libro del Paso Honroso" written by an eye witness, Pero
+Rodríguez de Lena. Prescott says that no country has been more fruitful
+in the field of historical composition than Spain. The chronicles date
+from the twelfth century, every great family, every town and every city
+had its chronicler. Compare the minute details we have of Cortés in
+Mexico about 1517, with the meager accounts we find of the North
+American settlers some generations later.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> It is amusing to find Napier, whose "History of the
+Peninsula War" is one of the most one-sided of chronicles, laying down
+the law in this fashion: "The English are a people very subject to
+receive and to cherish false impressions, proud of their credulity, as
+if it were a virtue, the majority will adopt any fallacy, and cling to
+it with a tenacity proportioned to its grossness."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Frequently in Spain one comes on Irish names among the
+leading families. The O'Donnells, Dukes of Tetuán, have had several
+generations of distinguished men. In the 18th century Count Alexander
+O'Reilly led the Spanish armies in the New World and the Old, and when
+Governor of Andalusia, he so reformed economic conditions in Cadiz that
+a beggar was unknown on the streets. He too was followed by an able son.
+Reading Spanish books the traces of Irish exiles are many: thus a Doña
+Lucía Fitzgerald organized and drilled a woman's regiment during the
+siege of Gerona in 1808; and the beautiful wife of the poet Campoamor
+was a Doña Guillermina O'Gorman.
+</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"We're all over Austria, France, and Spain,<br /></span>
+<span class="i1">Said Kelly, and Burke, and Shea."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> "L'un des signes distinctifs des mystiques c'est justement
+l'équilibre absolu, l'entier bon sens." J.-K. Huysmans: "<i>En Route</i>."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> "La Mystique est une science absolument exacte. Elle peut
+annoncer d'avance la plupart des phénomènes qui se produisent dans une
+âme que le Seigneur destine à la vie parfaite; elle suit aussi nettement
+les opérations spirituelles que la physiologie observe les états
+différents du corps. De siècles en siècles, elle a divulgué la marche de
+la Grâce et ses effets tantôt impétueux et tantôt lents; elle a même
+précisé les modifications des organes matériels qui se transforment
+quand l'âme tout entière se fond en Dieu. Saint Denys l'Aréopagite,
+saint Bonaventure, Hugues et Richard de Saint Victor, saint Thomas
+d'Aquin, saint Bernard, Ruysbroeck, Angèle de Foligno, les deux Eckhart,
+Tauler, Suso, Denys le chartreux, sainte Hildegarde, sainte Catherine de
+Gênes, sainte Catherine de Sienne, sainte Madeleine de Pazzi, sainte
+Gertrude, d'autres encore ont magistralement exposé les principes et les
+théories de la Mystique." J.-K. Huysmans: "<i>En Route</i>."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> It has been said that there never was a spiritually minded
+man, who, knowing Saint Teresa's works, was not devoted to them. In his
+"Journal Intime," that most distinguished prelate of modern France, Mgr.
+Dupanloup, wrote: "La vie de Sainte Térèse m'y a charmé.... J'ai
+rarement reçu, dans ma vie, une bénédiction, une impression de grâce
+plus simple et plus profonde."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> "Just as the Church of Rome has absorbed Platonism in the
+doctrine of the Logos and of the Trinity, and has absorbed
+Aristotelianism in the doctrine of Christ's real presence in the
+Eucharist, so we may naturally expect that in its doctrine of its own
+nature, it will some day absorb formally, having long done so
+informally, the main ideas of that evolutionary philosophy, which many
+people regard as destined to complete its downfall; and that it will
+find in this philosophy&mdash;in the philosophy of the Darwins, the Spencers,
+and the Huxleys&mdash;a scientific explanation of its own teaching authority,
+like that which is found in Aristotle for its doctrine of
+Transubstantiation.... It may be said that the Roman Church itself
+developed without being conscious of its own scientific character, just
+as men were for ages unconscious of the circulation of their own
+blood.... Like an animal seeking nutriment it put forth its feelers or
+tentacles on all sides, seizing, tasting, and testing all forms of human
+thought, all human opinions, and all alleged discoveries. It absorbs
+some of these into itself, and extracts their nutritive principles; it
+immediately rejects some as poisonous or indigestible; and gradually
+expels from its system others, condemned as heresies, which it has
+accidentally or experimentally swallowed." W. H. Mallock: "Doctrine and
+Doctrinal Disruption." 1900.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Moro made a replica of this portrait (or perhaps the Prado
+picture is the replica) which Mary gave to her Master of Horse. It now
+fortunately is in America, in Mrs. J. L. Gardner's notable collection in
+<i>Fenway Court</i>, Boston. It is hard to recognize in the Mary of the
+Flemish Master the queen of whom Motley wrote in his "Dutch Republic":
+"tyrant, bigot, and murderess ... small, lean and sickly, painfully
+nearsighted yet with an eye of fierceness and fire, her face wrinkled by
+lines of care and evil passions."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> "Io cristiano viejo soy, y para ser Conde esto me
+basta"&mdash;old Spanish proverb, quoted by Sancho Panza. Proverbs, which
+Cervantes called "short sentences drawn from long experience," often
+show the qualities of a race. In many of the popular sayings of Castile
+is found the strong feeling of manhood's equality:
+</p>
+<p class="nind">
+"Cuando Dios amanece, para todos amanece."<br />
+"Mientras que duermen todos son iguales."<br />
+"No ocupo más pies de tierra el cuerpo del Papa que el del sacristan."<br />
+
+</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> See the frontispiece: Portrait of an Hidalgo, by El
+Greco.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> "Nunca la lanza embotó la pluma, ni la pluma la
+lanza,"&mdash;old Spanish proverb.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> "The Hound of Heaven": Francis Thompson.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> "Donde hay música, no puede haber cosa mala."&mdash;Spanish
+proverb.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> "Spain is one of the few countries in Europe where poverty
+is not treated with contempt, and I may add, where the wealthy are not
+blindly idolized."&mdash;George Borrow: "The Bible in Spain."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Our Lady of Victory is the patroness of the <i>cigarreras</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> "O trois fois saints chanoines! dormez doucement sous
+votre dalle, â l'ombre de votre cathédrale chérie, tandis que votre âme
+se prelasse au paradis dans une stalle probablement moins bien sculptée
+que celle de votre ch&oelig;ur!"
+</p>
+
+<p class="r">T<small>HÉOPHILE</small> G<small>AUTIER</small>: "Voyage en Espagne."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> "One of the commonest types among the Greek figurines,
+certainly representing the average Greek lady, might be supposed to
+represent a Spanish lady, so closely does the face, the dress, the
+mantilla-like covering of the head, the erect and dignified carriage,
+recall modern Spain."</p>
+<p class="r">"The Soul of Spain."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Havelock-Ellis.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> The same trait is shown in the astonishingly fecund
+theater of Spain, where is found for one golden century the indelible
+mark of the race. First came Lope de Vega with his dashing picaresque
+comedies <i>de capa y espada</i>, that more induce to laughter than to vice,
+the vigorous and supple Lope, whom all nations have "found good to steal
+from." Then followed the powerful Tirso de Molina, a dramatist of vision
+and passion, and Ruiz de Alacón with his high ethical aim and equal
+execution, and finally Calderón, who in the midst of his plays shows
+himself an exquisite lyric poet. In Seville we used to see what would
+here be a dime-museum crowd pouring into an hour's bit of frolic, such
+as Benevente's "Intereses Creados," of the true cape-and-sword type.
+Those plays which we personally saw proved to us Valera's words, that
+erotic literature rises in sadness and pessimism, not in the hearty
+bravura and zest of life of the Spanish theater.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> "Es menester mucho tiempo para venir á conocer las
+personas," is one of Sancho Panza's wise saws.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> See "L'Espagne Littéraire" by Boris de Tannenberg (Paris,
+1903).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> "Surely chivalry is not dead!" exclaimed Lieut. R. P.
+Hobson when describing the courteous treatment he, as prisoner, had
+received from the Spanish officers: "The history of warfare probably
+contains no instance of chivalry on the part of captors greater than
+that of those who fired on the 'Merrimac.'" The gallant American's
+account of his feat in Santiago harbor proves that Spínola's spirit
+survives on both sides of the Atlantic.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> "In Gerona Cathedral there was a cat who would stroll
+about in front of the <i>capilla mayor</i> during the progress of Mass,
+receiving the caresses of the passers-by. It would be a serious mistake
+to see here any indifference to religion, on the contrary, this easy
+familiarity with sacred things is simply the attitude of those who in
+Wordsworth's phrase, "lie in Abraham's bosom all the year," and do not,
+as often among ourselves, enter a church once a week to prove how
+severely respectable, for the example of others, we can show ourselves."
+</p>
+<p class="r">
+"The Soul of Spain"&mdash;H<small>AVELOCK</small> E<small>LLIS</small> (1908).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> An idea of Spain's romance of soul can be gathered from
+the rules and regulations of her national police, the Civil Guard, who
+may be called the descendants of Isabella's <i>Santa Hermandad</i>.
+</p><p>
+"1. Honour must be the chief motive for the Civil Guard, to be preserved
+intact and without a flaw. Once gone, honour can never be regained.
+</p><p>
+" ... 3. The force must be an example to the country of neatness, order,
+bearing, good morals and spotless honour....
+</p><p>
+"8. The Civil Guard ought to be regarded as the protector of the
+afflicted, inspiring confidence when seen approaching.... For the Civil
+Guard must freely give his life for the good of any sufferer.
+</p><p>
+" ... 9. Whenever a member of the Civil Guard has the good fortune to
+render a service to anyone, he must never accept, if offered, a reward,
+bearing in mind that he has done nothing but his simple duty.
+</p><p>
+" ... 27. The Civil Guard will refrain with the greatest scrupulousness
+from drawing near to listen to any knot of people in street, shop, or
+private house, for this would be an act of espionage, altogether outside
+the office and beneath the dignity of any member of the force."
+</p><p>
+That such rules have molded her exemplary constabulary, no one will deny
+who has traveled much in Spain. They are loved and respected by the
+people; witness this popular song:
+</p>
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Atenta á la vida humana<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Siempre la Guardia Civil ...<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Y por eso en todas partes<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Benediciones la acompañan,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Por eso Dios la protege<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Cuando al peligro se lanza,<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Por eso la canto yo<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Con el corazón y el alma:<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Viva la Guardia Civil<br /></span>
+<span class="ist">Porque es la gloria de España!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> This most beautiful church, dating before the Crusades,
+one of the most ancient, with the Asturian churches, Santa María de
+Naranco and San Miguel de Lino, in all the Peninsula, was totally
+destroyed by the socialist mob, in the riots of July, 1909.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> "El principio de la salud está en conocer la
+enfermedad."&mdash;Old Spanish proverb.</p></div>
+
+</div>
+<hr class="full" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Heroic Spain, by Elizabeth Boyle O'Reilly
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diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
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+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #39246 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/39246)