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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Story of Assisi, by Lina Duff Gordon
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Story of Assisi
+
+Author: Lina Duff Gordon
+
+Illustrator: Nelly Erichsen
+             M. Helen James
+
+Release Date: January 12, 2012 [EBook #38559]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STORY OF ASSISI ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+  Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
+  been preserved.  Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
+
+  Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.
+
+
+
+
+The Story of Assisi
+
+
+
+
+     "Between Tupino, and the wave that falls
+     From blest Ubaldo's chosen hill, there hangs
+     Rich slope of mountain high, whence heat and cold
+     Are wafted through Perugia's eastern gate:
+     And Nocera with Gualdo, in its rear,
+     Mourn for their heavy yoke. Upon that side,
+     Where it doth break its steepness most, arose
+     A sun upon the world, as duly this
+     From Ganges doth: therefore let none who speak
+     Of that place, say Ascesi; for its name
+     Were lamely so deliver'd; but the East,
+     To call things rightly, be it henceforth styled."
+         DANTE, _Paradiso_, xi. (Cary's translation).
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: _P. Lunghi. Photo._
+  _Statue of St. Francis._
+  _by Andrea della Robbia in Sta. Maria degli Angeli._]
+
+
+
+
+The Story of Assisi
+
+by Lina Duff Gordon
+
+Illustrated by Nelly Erichsen
+  and M. Helen James
+
+London: J. M. Dent & Co.
+
+Aldine House, 29 and 30 Bedford Street
+
+Covent Garden, W.C. 1901
+
+
+
+
+_First Edition, December 1900_
+
+_Second Edition, October 1901_
+
+_All rights reserved_
+
+
+
+
+           _To
+         Margaret Vaughan_
+
+     _this small book is affectionately dedicated
+     in remembrance of days spent together
+     in the Umbrian country_
+
+
+
+
+NOTE
+
+
+My sincerest thanks are due to my aunt Mrs Ross, to Mrs Vaughan, Dr E.
+Percival Wright, M. Paul Sabatier, Mr Sidney Colvin, Sir William
+Markby and Mr Pearsall Smith, for the help rendered me in various ways
+during the writing of this book. I wish further to acknowledge the
+kindness of Mr Roger Fry who allowed me to quote from his lectures on
+Art delivered this year in London, before they were published in the
+_New Monthly Review_; and also the generous permission of Mr Anderson
+(Rome), and Signor Lunghi (Assisi), for allowing me to use their
+photographs. For the loan of old Italian books I am indebted to Cav.
+Bruschi, Librarian of the Marucelliana at Florence, to Professor
+Bellucci, Professor of the University of Perugia, and to Signor Rossi,
+proprietor of the Hotel Subasio at Assisi, whose intimate knowledge of
+his native town has been of great service to me.
+
+     L. D. G.
+
+     POGGIO GHERARDO,
+     FLORENCE, _October 1900_.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+     CHAPTER I
+                                                  PAGE
+     _War and Strife_                                           1
+
+     CHAPTER II
+
+     _The Umbrian Prophet_                                     39
+
+     CHAPTER III
+
+     _The Carceri, Rivo-Torto and Life at the
+     Portiuncula_                                              81
+
+     CHAPTER IV
+
+     _The building of the Basilica and Convent of
+     San Francesco. The Story of Brother
+     Elias_                                                   117
+
+     CHAPTER V
+
+     _Cimabue and his School at San Francesco_                149
+
+     CHAPTER VI
+
+     _The Paintings of Giotto and his School in the
+     Lower Church_                                            168
+
+     CHAPTER VII
+
+     _The Sienese Masters in the Lower Church.
+     The Convent_                                             198
+
+     CHAPTER VIII
+
+     _Giotto's Legend of St. Francis in the Upper
+     Church_                                                  228
+
+     CHAPTER IX
+
+     _St. Clare at San Damiano. The Church of
+     Santa Chiara_                                            258
+
+     CHAPTER X
+
+     _Other Buildings in the Town_                            289
+
+     CHAPTER XI
+
+     _The Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli. The
+     Feast of the Pardon of St. Francis or
+     the "Perdono d'Assisi"_                                  335
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+     _Statue of St. Francis by Andrea della Robbia in
+     Sta. Maria degli Angeli_
+     (_P. Lunghi--photo_)             _Photogravure-Frontispiece_
+
+                                                             PAGE
+
+     _The Temple of Minerva_                                    3
+
+     _The Eastern Slope of Assisi with the Castle,
+     from the Porta Cappucini_                                 10
+
+     _The Guelph Lion of Assisi_                               22
+
+     _The Arms of Assisi_                                      37
+
+     _Assisi in the time of St. Francis_                       38
+
+     _Via di S. Maria delle Rose_                              58
+
+     _The Arms of the Franciscans_                             80
+
+     _Hermitage of the Carceri_                                82
+
+     _The Carceri with a View of the Bridge_                   89
+
+     _Side Door of the Portiuncula built by St. Benedict_      99
+
+     _The Portiuncula in the time of St. Francis, from
+     the "Collis Paradisi"_                                   107
+
+     _Assisi from the Plain_                                  113
+
+     _Church and Convent of San Francesco_                    127
+
+     _San Francesco from the Plain_                           147
+
+     _The Lower Church_                                       150
+
+     _Looking through the doors of the Upper Church
+     towards the Porta S. Giacomo and the
+     Castle_                                                  157
+
+     _Plan of the Lower Church and Monastery of
+     San Francesco at Assisi_  (_facing_)                     168
+
+     _Choir and Transepts of the Lower Church_                172
+
+     _The Marriage of St. Francis with Poverty_
+     (_D. Anderson--photo_)                                   179
+
+     _The Old Cemetery of San Francesco_                      194
+
+     _The Knighthood of St. Martin by Simone Martini_
+     (_D. Anderson--photo_)                                   201
+
+     _Bird's Eye View of the Basilica and Convent
+     of San Francesco, from a drawing made in
+     1820_                                                    213
+
+     _San Francesco from the Tescio_                          217
+
+     _Staircase leading from the Upper to the Lower
+     Piazza of San Francesco_                                 220
+
+     _San Francesco from the Ponte S. Vittorino_              222
+
+     _A Friar of the Minor Conventual Order of St.
+     Francis_                                                 225
+
+     _St. Francis Renounces the World_
+     (_D. Anderson--photo_)                                   233
+
+     _Death of the Knight of Celano_
+     (_D. Anderson--photo_)                                   247
+
+     _Arms of the Franciscans from the Intarsia of
+     the Stalls_                                              257
+
+     _Door through which St. Clare left the Palazzo
+     Scifi_                                                   262
+
+     _San Damiano, showing the Window with the
+     Ledge whence St. Claire routed the Saracens_             268
+
+     _Santa Chiara_                                           282
+
+     _Santa Chiara from near the Porta Mojano_                287
+
+     _Campanile of San Rufino_                                290
+
+     _Door of San Rufino_                                     295
+
+     _The Dome and Apse of San Rufino from the
+     Canon's Garden_                                          298
+
+     _Campanile of Sta. Maria Maggiore_                       309
+
+     _Church of Sta. Maria Maggiore_                          310
+
+     _Church of S. Pietro_                                    313
+
+     _Confraternity of San Francescuccio in Via
+     Garibaldi_                                               315
+
+     _Monte Frumentorio in the Via Principe di
+     Napoli_                                                  320
+
+     _House of the Comacine Builders in the Via
+     Principe di Napole_                                      322
+
+     _Looking across the Assisan roofs towards the
+     East_                                                    325
+
+     _View of San Francesco from beneath the Castle
+     Walls_                                                   332
+
+     _The Garden of the Roses at Sta. Maria degli
+     Angeli_                                                  339
+
+     _The Fonte Marcella by Galeazzo Alessi_                  346
+
+     _An Assisan Garden in Via Garibaldi_                     347
+
+     _Umbrian Oxen_                                           349
+
+     _Women from the Basilicata_                              351
+
+     _San Francesco_                                          356
+
+     _Plan of Assisi_                                         372
+
+
+
+
+The Story of Assisi
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+_War and Strife_
+
+   "C'était le temps des guerres sans pitié et des inimitiés
+   mortelles." H. TAINE. _Voyage en Italie._ _Perouse et Assise._
+
+
+All who ascend the hill of the Seraphic City must feel its
+indescribable charm--intangible, mysterious, and quite distinct from
+the beauty of the Umbrian valley. "Why," we ask ourselves, "this
+stillness and sense of marvellous peace in every church and every
+street?" And, as though conscious of our thoughts, a young Assisan,
+with a gesture of infinite sadness towards the large, desolate palaces
+and broad deserted streets, said, as we lingered on our way: "Ah!
+Signore mie, our city is a city of the dead--of memories only." As he
+spoke a long procession of a grey-clothed confraternity, bearing on
+their breasts the franciscan badge, preceded by a priest who walked
+beneath a baldachino, streamed out of a small church. Slowly they
+passed down the road, and then the priest turned into a wayside
+cottage where lay a dying woman, while the others waited outside under
+the olive trees. But the sound of their chanting and the tinkling of
+the small bell came to us as we leaned over the city walls. Of a truth
+we felt the religious life of the town was not dead: perchance, down
+those streets, now so still, men had passed along to battle during
+the sad turmoil of the middle ages, had hated and loved as well as
+prayed, with all the fervour of their southern nature. We must turn to
+the early chroniclers to find in their fascinating pages that Assisi
+has had her passionate past and her hours of deepest trial.
+
+Her origin goes back to the days when the Umbrians, one of the most
+ancient people of Italy, inhabited the country north and south of the
+Tiber, and lived a wild life in caves. But the past is very dim; some
+Umbrian inscriptions, a few flint arrow heads, and some hatchets made
+of jade found on the shore of lake Thrasymene are the only records we
+possess of these early settlers.
+
+If written history of their ways and origin is lacking, the later
+chroniclers of Assisi endeavour to supply with their gossip, what is
+missing. Rambling and strange as their legends often seem to us,
+nevertheless they contain a germ of truth, an image, faint but partly
+true of a time so infinitely far away. Most of the local Umbrian
+historians have awarded the honour of the foundation of their own
+particular town to the earliest heroes whom they happen to know of,
+and these are invariably Noah and his family. It is, therefore,
+curious to note that the Assisan chroniclers have departed from this
+custom and have woven for themselves a legend so different from the
+usual friar's tale: "Various are the opinions," says one of them,
+"concerning the first building of our city; but the most probable, and
+the most universally accepted by serious writers, is the one which
+gives Dardanus as her founder. In the year 713 after the Deluge, and
+865 years before the foundation of Rome, the first civil war in Italy
+broke out between the brothers Jasius and Dardanus, both sons of
+Electra; but the father of Jasius was Jupiter, while Dardanus was the
+son of Corythus, King of Cortona." The people of Umbria took sides,
+as some would have it that Jasius ought to be king in the place of the
+dead prince Corythus. Now it happened that Dardanus had pitched his
+tent on the slope of Mount Subasio, when a dream came to him that
+Jupiter and Minerva were preparing to assail the enemy, and that
+Jasius would be vanquished. On waking he determined, should his dream
+be true, to raise a temple to the goddess on the spot where he had
+slept. He went forth to battle, and with the help of the goddess drove
+the enemy back with great slaughter; Jasius was killed and they buried
+him on the field of battle. "Full well did Dardanus keep his vow, for
+in a few months there arose a wonderful building, now known as the
+sacred temple, dedicated to the true Minerva of Heaven, under the name
+of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Thus it is that the country round Assisi
+has been called _Palladios agros_, the fields of Pallas."[1]
+
+  [Illustration: THE TEMPLE OF MINERVA]
+
+And thus the monk dreams on about the Seraphic Province of Umbria; and
+we dream with him of the Umbrians who forsook the chase and their
+shepherd huts on the heights about Subasio, to gather round the
+marvellous temple built by the hero ere he went forth to found the
+city of Troy. People came from afar to look at the six-fluted columns,
+and while marvelling at a thing so fair, they resolved to build their
+homes within sight and under the shadow of the sacred walls. Here was
+the nucleus of a future town. The simple shelters of cane and
+brushwood were soon replaced by huts of a neater pattern made of
+wattle and clay, with earthen floors, rounded porches and pent roofs.
+The dwellers by the temple throve and prospered, and all was peace for
+a while, until the van-guard of that mysterious people, the Etruscans,
+appeared on the Umbrian horizon. We are told how Dardanus, while
+visiting the King of Lydia on his way to Troy, drew such a
+highly-coloured picture of the loveliness of Tuscany, the fruitful
+qualities of the soil, and the lightness of the air, that Tyrrhenus,
+the king's son, was immediately sent with a large army to take
+possession of so rich a province. Then came a struggle, and the
+Umbrian tribes were driven back south of the Tiber, which henceforth
+strictly defined the boundary between Umbria and Etruria.
+
+Immediately to the west of Assisi, and on the longest spur of hills
+which juts out into the valley of the Tiber, stood the now Etruscan
+city of Perugia, to which a band of Etruscans had lately immigrated.
+The huge, grim walls which grew up round it after the advent of the
+new settlers, the narrow pointed gateways, some guarded by heads of
+stern and unknown deities, the general menacing and ferocious aspect
+of its buildings, soon warned the smaller Umbrian cities of what they
+might in coming ages expect from her inhabitants. It is probable that
+skirmishes were frequent between the neighbouring towns of Assisi and
+Perugia, and to judge from the subterranean passages which still exist
+beneath the streets of the former place, we may gather that she was
+open to constant attacks, and that her inhabitants found it more
+prudent to disappear underground at the approach of enemies than to
+meet them in open battle. These subterranean galleries, cut in the
+soft tufa, extend for miles under the present city: branching out in
+all directions they form a veritable labyrinth of secret passages.
+Here swiftly and silently as the foe advanced, men and women with
+their children would disappear into the bowels of the earth, some
+being occasionally buried beneath masses of soil shaken down by the
+tramp of many feet above them. Repeated dangers of this sort at last
+decided the Assisans to meet their enemies in more war-like fashion,
+and to surround themselves--as Perugia had done--with stones and
+mortar. Soon the town bristled with towers and turreted gateways, and
+the houses, no longer built of wattle and mud, began to foreshadow the
+strongly fortified palaces of a later date. None too soon did Assisi
+prepare for war. In the year 309 B.C. the shrill sound of the Roman
+clarion echoed through the Cimminian forest. It roused Etruria to
+arms, proclaiming the fact that the Romans had dared to penetrate
+beyond this dangerous barrier which hitherto had been deemed
+impassable. The Etruscans and Umbrians, forgetting all their former
+strifes, now joined against the new power which threatened to crush
+their liberties. The battles which followed beneath the walls of
+Perugia, and by Bevagna in the plain of the Clitumnus, brought all
+Umbria, in the space of a single year, under the yoke of Rome.
+
+And now, although we leave the fields of legend and enter those of
+history, we find but little mention of Assisi: this is, however,
+easily accounted for. Built upon the unfrequented slopes of Mount
+Subasio, like a flower gradually opening to the sun's rays, she was
+far more secure than her neighbour Perugia who, commanding and
+commanded by the road from Rome to Ravenna, along which an army
+passed, stood in haughty and uncompromising pre-eminence. The
+comparatively obscure position of Assisi therefore gave her long
+periods of peace, and these she employed in building innumerable
+temples, a theatre, and a circus. It is impossible to excavate in any
+part of Assisi without coming upon relics of that time. Statues and
+busts of the Cæsars, of gods and of consuls, are lying in dark corners
+of the communal palace, and broken fragments of delicately-wrought
+friezes and heads of goddesses, half buried in bushes of oleander,
+adorn the Assisan gardens. Beneath the foundations of the more modern
+houses, mosaic floors and frescoed walls have been found, showing that
+Assisi had her years of early splendour. But full of life and action
+as this Roman period was, it is as completely hidden from us as are
+the temples now buried beneath the present town. It passed rapidly
+away, and yet is of some importance in the history of the world as
+having witnessed the birth of Sex. Aurelius Propertius, great among
+the poets even at a time when Virgil, Horace, and a host of others
+were filling Italy with their song.
+
+Many an Umbrian town prides itself on being the birthplace of
+Propertius. The people of Spello have even placed a tablet in their
+walls to claim him as her son; but the Assisans, ignoring the rivalry
+of others, very quietly point to the many inscriptions of the
+Propertius' family collected beneath the portico of the Temple of
+Minerva. One may be noticed referring to C. Passennus Sergius Paullus
+Propertius Blaesus, said to be a lineal descendant of the poet, who is
+supposed to have married after the death of the fair Cynthia, and
+returned to his native valley to pass his last days in domestic
+tranquillity. Angelo Poliziano, on the margin of an early edition of
+the poet's works now in the Laurentian Library of Florence, has made a
+note to the effect that Propertius, as well as St. Francis, was born
+at Assisi; and certainly modern writers assign the honour to Assisi.
+
+The somewhat vague utterances of Propertius as to his native town seem
+to show that the position of Assisi, with regard to Perugia and the
+plain, more nearly coincides with his description than that of any
+other city in the valley or on the hills. To one inquisitive friend he
+answers: "Tullus, thou art ever entreating me in the name of our
+friendship to tell thee my country and my descent. If thou knowest
+Perusia, which gave a field of death and a sepulchre to our father and
+in Italy's hour of affliction, when domestic discord drove Rome's own
+citizens one against the other--(Ah! hills of Etruria, to me beyond
+measure have ye given sorrow, for ye suffered the limbs of my kinsman
+to be cast aside unburied, and denied the handful of dust to cover his
+bones)--there it was that, close above the margin of her plain spread
+below, Umbria, rich in fertile domains, gave me birth."[2] The kinsman
+spoken of here is a certain Gallus, who lost his life in B.C. 41, when
+Lucius Antonius was besieged in Perugia by Augustus. The horrors of
+the general massacre which followed the fall of the city left sad
+memories in the mind of Propertius, then a mere child. In the general
+confiscation of property after the battle of Philippi his family lost
+their estates. But poor as they were, Propertius was sent to Rome to
+study, where, recognised as the leader of a new school of poetry, he
+remained until shortly before his death, at the age of thirty-five.
+His paternal estates having been restored to him, he forsook the
+splendour of the Augustan court, the patronage of Maecenas, the
+friendship of Virgil, and returned to the Umbrian country where his
+first inspirations had been awakened. The contrast between a house and
+garden on the Palatine hill, in the midst of the stir of Roman life,
+and a farm by the silent stream flowing through the stillest of
+valleys, must have been great. But, judging from his description of
+the country, he seems to have fallen readily into rural ways, and
+loved to watch the herds of white oxen, dedicated to the service of
+the goddesses, grazing close to the banks of the Clitumnus. We may
+infer that he hunted the "timorous hare and birds" in the thick oak
+forest of the Spoletan valley, but, as he playfully tells us, he left
+"the hazardous boar alone," for physical courage was not one of his
+characteristics.
+
+From the plain his eyes were often raised in the direction of Assisi,
+and to his familiarity with her towers we owe this exquisite
+description of his birthplace, which, perhaps out of modesty, as he
+alludes to his own fame, he places in the mouth of a soothsayer:
+"Ancient Umbria gave thee birth from a noted household. Do I mistake,
+or do I touch rightly the region of your home, where misty Mevania
+stands among the dews of the hill-girt plain, and the waters of the
+Umbrian lake grow warm the summer through, and where on the summit of
+mounting Asis rise the walls to which your genius has added glory."[3]
+
+Nothing happens, or at least nothing is mentioned in Assisan
+chronicles until Christianity stealthily worked its way up from Rome
+about the third century. Then bloodshed followed during a period of
+darkness when Christians and pagans divided the town into factions by
+their bitter fights for religion. At first the Christians suffered,
+and many were martyred in the Umbrian rivers, but only to triumph
+later when Roman Assisi soon vanished and Christian basilicas were
+built on the site of pagan temples. Although, after the Roman period,
+we find Assisi more nearly linked with the general history of Italy,
+she appears uninfluenced by outside events, and her atmosphere of
+remoteness remains unimpaired. Thus we may say that Huns, Franks, and
+Lombards merely passed by and left no lasting mark upon the city. For
+a moment she was suddenly aroused by the tempestuous arrival of one or
+other of their leaders, but once the danger was past she returned to
+her calm sleep upon the mountain side.
+
+In 545 Totila, on his march to Rome, arrived before the walls of
+Assisi which were gallantly defended for the Emperor Justinian by
+Siegfried the Goth, but unfortunately he being killed in a skirmish
+with the Huns, the disheartened citizens reluctantly opened their
+gates to the enemy. For the first time in her annals (the Roman
+occupation had been peaceful enough) a foreigner--a tyrant set foot in
+her streets as master. But the restless Totila soon began to scan the
+country round for other cities to attack. Becoming aware of the large
+and wealthy city of Perugia perched upon the western hill, he sallied
+forth to capture a bigger prey, and Assisi enjoyed a further spell of
+peace.
+
+  [Illustration: THE EASTERN SLOPE OF ASSISI WITH THE CASTLE, FROM THE
+  PORTA CAPPUCCINI]
+
+In reading the long-winded chronicles it is often difficult to gather
+to which power the various small towns at this time belonged. One
+point is, however, clear, that during endless contentions between the
+Popes and the Greek, and later the German Emperors, the Umbrian
+cities were often left to manage their own affairs, and because of the
+periods of rest which they thus enjoyed and used in their individual
+ways, we are inclined to speak of them as republics. For a long time
+Assisi remained annexed to the Duchy of Spoleto, then under the rule
+of the Lombard Dukes whose advent had filled the different cities in
+the valley with Arian Christians, unfriendly to the Papacy. Assisi,
+together with other towns swerved from her allegiance to the Pope, and
+it is perhaps on this account that Charlemagne in 773 with his
+"terrible and fierce followers" came to besiege her. They laid the
+country waste, and made many attacks upon Assisi which met with stout
+resistance; but while prowling round the walls one night they found
+the main drain, and stealing through it they were able to discover the
+weakest part of the town. Next night they returned well armed, slew
+the guards who were keeping watch by the midnight fires, and before
+the citizens could rush to arms, the gates were opened to Charlemagne.
+The army passed in, her citizens were put to the sword, and the town
+razed to the ground.
+
+"Thus," says a chronicler, "Assisi bereft of her inhabitants, found
+herself an unhappy widow. Then was the most clement emperor grieved,
+and ordering that the city should be rebuilt, he placed therein a new
+colony of Christians of the Roman faith, and the city was restored,
+and in it the Divine Worship."[4]
+
+A small arched doorway ornamented with a delicate frieze of foliage
+still remains as a record of the rebuilding of the city by
+Charlemagne's Lombard workmen. The stone is blackened, the tracery
+worn away. Few find this dark corner in the Piazza delle Rose, and the
+people wonder at those who stop to look, for "it is ugly and very
+old," they say.
+
+It was probably at this time, towards the end of the eighth century,
+that the Rocca d'Assisi was built. This made her a more important
+factor in Umbrian politics; and leaders of armies, who hitherto had
+paid her but a hurried visit, now vied with each other to possess a
+city with so fair a crown. The citizens had chosen for the site of the
+castle the part where the hill rises in a sudden peak above the town,
+looking to the north across a deep ravine towards the mountains of
+Gualdo and Nocera. Above the main building and the four crenelated
+towers soared the castle keep; from the ramparts started two lines of
+walls which, going east and west, gathered the town as it were within
+a nest. At intervals rose forts connected by a covered passage, and
+tall towers guarded the walls where they joined the city gates. The
+Rocca d'Assisi with this chain of walls bristling with iron spikes and
+towers, complete in strength and perfect in architecture, looked down
+upon the town like some guarding deity, and was the pride of every
+citizen. It was no gloomy stronghold such as the French kings erected
+in the woods of Tourraine, but built of the yellow Subasian stone it
+seemed more like a mighty palace with windows large and square, whence
+many a _condottiere_ and many a noble prisoner leant out to look upon
+the splendid sweep of country from Perugia to Spoleto.
+
+Proud as the citizens were of their new-born importance they soon
+regretted the calmer days of their obscurity. By the twelfth
+century they were torn between the Pope, the Emperor, and their own
+turbulent factions, for even in the smaller towns the cries of Guelph
+and Ghibelline were beginning to be heard. Whenever German
+potentates--"the abhorred Germans" as the chroniclers call them--had
+their hands well clenched upon an Umbrian town, the citizens turned
+imploring eyes towards Rome. The promise of municipal liberty was the
+bait which every pontiff knew well how to use for his own profit. The
+German, on the other hand, troubled not to use diplomacy as a means
+to gain his ends, but brought an army to storm the town, and took up
+his residence in the castle, whence he could hear the murmurings of
+the citizens below planning to drive him out of their gates. The first
+distinguished but unwelcome guest in the Rocca d'Assisi was Frederick
+Barbarossa. He was, however, too much occupied in his career of
+conquest to waste more than a few weeks in Umbria, and in 1195 we find
+Conrad of Suabia, who in the annals of the time is known by the
+nickname of "the whimsical one," in charge of the castle, with the
+title of Count of Assisi. Conrad was also Duke of Spoleto, but he
+preferred the fortress of Assisi as a residence and spent some two
+years there to the annoyance of the citizens, who were constrained to
+be more or less on their good behaviour. With him in those days was a
+small but important person, who, at the age of two, had been elected
+King of Germany and Italy. This was Frederick II, and the legend
+recounts how he was born in the Piazza Minerva beneath a tent hastily
+erected for the occasion, and in his third year was baptised in the
+Cathedral of San Rufino, amidst a throng of cardinals, bishops,
+Assisan priors and nobles. It would, indeed, be strange that he, who
+later was to prove a thorn in the side of many a Pope, should have
+been born and nurtured in the Seraphic City.
+
+The Assisans soon wearied of the German yoke, but unaided they could
+not throw it off and it needed the timely intervention of Innocent
+III, to rid them of Conrad's presence. The Pope, who had been quietly
+waiting an opportunity to regain his lost Umbrian towns, felt himself
+powerful enough now that the Emperor Henry VI, was dead, to send
+haughty commands to Conrad. He was bidden to meet Innocent at Narni
+where he solemnly made over his possessions to the Church. Thus left
+to themselves, the Assisans, with cries of "Liberty and the Pope,"
+rushed on the castle to tear it down. Built to be their safeguard, it
+proved their greatest danger, and they determined that no other tyrant
+should find shelter within its walls. While the Assisans were
+rejoicing in their freedom, and endeavouring to guard against the
+constant attacks of the Perugians, the big world outside was being
+torn and rent by a medley of events which was carrying men's thoughts
+forward in the swift current of a fresh era. Everywhere a new spirit
+was spreading--"the fraternising spirit" it has been called. In the
+cities men were joining together in guilds, heralding the
+commonwealths; while, in the country, bands of people, under the names
+of Patarins, Albergenses, Poor Men of Lyons, etc., raised the standard
+of revolt yet higher against their feudal and spiritual lords. A
+contemporary writer speaks of thirty-two heresies as being rampant in
+Italy at this time. Men were eager and full of energy, finding relief
+through many channels that set all Italy in a ferment. But amidst the
+confusion of wars and heresies the Papal power grew ever stronger,
+until, with the accession of Innocent III, the claims of a temporal
+ruler were blended with spiritual rights. The Marches of Ancona,
+Umbria, and the seven hills of Rome belonged alike to him, while he
+was powerful enough to excommunicate cities, kingdoms, and emperors at
+his pleasure, and rule all with a rod of iron. The magnificent designs
+planned by Hildebrand seemed to triumph under Innocent, and yet the
+papal horizon was not without its clouds.
+
+     "Ah Constantine! of how much ill was cause,
+     Not thy conversion, but those rich domains
+     That the first wealthy Pope received of thee,"[5]
+
+groans Dante, in writing of the condition of the Church, and his cry
+reaches back to the time of which we write. Jacques de Vitry, who was
+often at the court of Innocent, also speaks with bitterness of the
+depravity of the priests. They were, he tells us, "deceiving as foxes,
+proud as bulls, avaricious and insatiable as the minotaur."
+
+Innocent III, though scheming and ambitious, was a man of lofty
+character, and no one watched with so much anguish the rising storms
+which threatened to shake the mighty fabric of the Papacy. In a moment
+of discouragement he is said to have exclaimed that fire and sword
+were needed to heal the wounds made by the simoniacal priests, and for
+a long time he in vain sought a remedy for those ills. But salvation
+was at hand, and it came from the Umbrian mountains, as the fresh
+breeze comes which suddenly breaks upon the budding trees in
+springtime.
+
+Within the narrow circuit of the Assisan walls arose a figure of
+magical power who drew men to him by the charm of his mysticism and
+the spell of his ardent nature. It is the sweet-souled saint of
+mediæval Italy--St. Francis of Assisi--who now illuminates this quiet
+corner of the world.
+
+Francis Bernardone was born in the year 1182, when, as we have seen,
+the Church was harrowed by a hundred ills. He passed a gay youth, free
+from every care, and tested all the pleasures that riches could
+procure. Though the son of a merchant he consorted with the noblest of
+the Assisan youths, who, partly on account of his father's wealth,
+partly because of his gaiety and love of splendour, were glad to
+accept him as an equal. All looked to the high-spirited, gifted
+Francis as the leader at every feast, the organiser of every
+entertainment, and when Perugia blew her war-trumpet he rode out to
+battle side by side with the Assisan cavaliers. Such, in a few words,
+was his position in Assisi when in his twenty-second year, after a
+severe illness which brought him to the brink of the grave, he
+resolved to follow to the letter the precept of the Gospel and lead
+the life of the first apostles. So complete was his conversion that
+he, the rich merchant's son, was to be seen walking through the
+streets with bricks on his back for the repair of the ruined churches
+of Assisi, while his former companions drew back and laughed as he
+passed them. But their derision was of short duration, for the charm
+they had felt in former days had by no means passed away. Holiness
+could never make him sad, and in the human tenderness and joyousness
+of his nature lay the secret of that power which was strong enough,
+the Assisans soon discovered, to lead them where he would--though it
+was now by a new road he travelled.
+
+The great movement, which began at Assisi and spread throughout Europe
+in a very few years, can only be likened to that witnessed by the lake
+of Galilee. Rich citizens gave all to the poor; the peasants left the
+vintage and sold their oxen, to join the ever-swelling crowd of
+bare-footed disciples who wandered through cities and into distant
+lands bringing comfort and words of peace to all they met. Like a ray
+of brilliant sunshine St. Francis dispersed the gloom of the middle
+ages, teaching men that the qualities of mercy and love were to be
+looked for from God instead of the inflexible justice that had
+overshadowed a religion intended to be all light. He walked the earth
+with joyous steps, inviting all to come with him and see how beautiful
+was the world; he looked upwards, praising God in bursts of eloquent
+song for the rain that fed the flowers, the birds that sang to him in
+the woods, and the blueness of his Umbrian sky. How different from the
+stern, orthodox saints who passed through the loveliest valleys with
+downcast eyes for fear of some hidden temptation or of some
+interruption to their prayers! With such a founder it is hardly
+surprising that the order of St. Francis spread and multiplied,
+becoming a great world force, as great and perhaps greater than that
+of St. Dominic. We get an interesting picture of the change he wrought
+throughout Italy and of the enthusiasm he kindled among his followers
+in a letter of Jacques de Vitry; from this we quote at length, for,
+being written by a contemporary of the saint, its value is very great.
+
+"While I was at the pontifical court I saw many things which grieved
+me to the heart. Everyone is so preoccupied with secular and temporal
+things, with matters concerning kings and kingdoms, litigations and
+lawsuits, that it is almost impossible to talk on religious matters.
+
+"Yet I found one subject for consolation in those lands: in that many
+persons of either sex, rich, and living in the great world, leave all
+for the love of Christ and renounce the world. They are called the
+Friars Minor, and are held in great respect by the Pope and the
+Cardinals. They, on their part, care nought for things temporal, and
+strive hard every day to tear perishing souls from the vanities of
+this world and to entice them into their ranks. Thanks be to God,
+their labour has already borne fruit, and they have gained many souls:
+inasmuch as he who listens to them brings others, and thus one
+audience creates another.
+
+"They live according to the rule of the primitive church, of which it
+is written: 'The multitude of believers were as one heart and one
+soul.' In the day they go into the cities and the villages to gain
+over souls and to work; in the night they betake themselves to
+hermitages and solitary places and give themselves up to
+contemplation.
+
+"The women live together near to cities in divers convents; they
+accept nought, but live by the labour of their hands. They are much
+disturbed to find themselves held in greater esteem, both by the
+clergy and the laity, than they themselves desire.
+
+"The men of this order meet once a year in some pre-arranged place, to
+their great profit, and rejoice together in the Lord and eat in
+company; and then, with the help of good and honest men, they adopt
+and promulgate holy institutions, approved by the Pope. After this
+they disperse, going about in Lombardy, Tuscany, and even in Apulia
+and Sicily, for the rest of the year.... I think it is to put the
+prelates to shame, who are like dogs unable to bark, that the Lord
+wills to save many souls before the end of the world, by means of
+these poor simple friars."[6]
+
+Certainly one of the most remarkable events in mediæval history was
+the result of the teaching of St. Francis upon his own and future
+generations. In his native city the strength of his personal influence
+and the love and veneration which he excited was extraordinary. But we
+notice even a stranger fact; with his death this holy influence
+apparently vanished, and it is possible that the memory of the saint
+is dearer to the hearts of the Assisans in what we are inclined to
+call the prosaic tedium of our trafficking nineteenth century, than it
+was in the years immediately following his death. Later centuries have
+shown us that his teaching and his presence there were not in vain.
+Assisi, down to our own times, has continued to be the Mecca of
+thousands of pilgrims. Her churches bear the record of infinite early
+piety, for when art was in its early prime the most famous masters
+from Tuscany were called upon to decorate the Franciscan Basilica and
+leave their choicest treasures there as tributes to the immortal glory
+of the saint. But the note of war rings louder than the song of praise
+and love for many years to come in all the Assisan chronicles, and
+grass and weeds grow up to choke, though not to kill, the blessed seed
+that Francis sowed and did not live to tend. No sooner did the gates
+of death close upon that sweet and genial spirit, than war, lust,
+strife and pestilence burst upon the very people he had so tenderly
+loved. The story of Assisi becomes, as it had never been before, a
+list of murders--of struggles to the death for individual power, and
+of wars which made the fair Umbrian country a desolate and cruel waste
+for months and even years.
+
+Each town looked with hatred upon its powerful rival, and the communal
+armies were for ever meeting in the plain by the Tiber to match their
+strength and see if some small portion at least of a city's domains
+could not be wrested from her. The bitterest and most pronounced
+enemies in the valley were undoubtedly Assisi and Perugia. Their feuds
+date back to the twelfth century; but even before the Christian era
+these two cities of the hills had marked each other as a foe for the
+one was Umbrian, the other Etruscan, and they merely continued the
+rivalry of their founders. It is often difficult to discover the cause
+of each separate war, but it may, as a general rule, be traced to
+Perugia's inborn love of fighting, and to her restless spirit which
+led her to storm each town in turn. From her eyrie she looked straight
+down upon half the Umbrian country, and gazing daily on so fair a land
+the desire for possession grew ever stronger. Many towns were forced
+to submit to her sway, and by the thirteenth century she was the
+acknowledged mistress of Umbria. It is, therefore, with surprise and
+admiration that we watch the undaunted struggle of Assisi against a
+tyrant whom she hated with a hatred quite Dantesque in its bitterness
+and strength. Many menacing towers were built on either side of the
+valley, and heralds were continually sent between the two towns with
+insulting messages to goad the citizens forward into battle. When
+Perugia was known to be preparing for an attack upon Assisi, the
+castles and villages around hastened to break their allegiance to the
+weaker city and ally themselves with the Perugian griffin. Assisi was
+thus often obliged to defend herself unaided against the Umbrian
+tyrant. When, in 1321 Perugia declared war against "this most wicked
+city of Assisi" whose crime consisted in having fallen under the rule
+of the Ghibelline party of her citizens,[7] both communes were in need
+of money as their bellicose habits had proved expensive. Busily,
+therefore, they set to work about procuring it, and in a highly
+characteristic manner Perugia sold her right of fishing in Thrasymene
+for five years, while the citizens of the Seraphic City entered by
+force into the sacristy of San Francesco and carried off a quantity of
+sacred spoils. Gold ornaments, censers, chalices, crucifixes of rare
+workmanship and precious stuffs, were divided into lots and sold,
+partly to Arezzo for 14,000 golden florins, and partly to Florence for
+a larger sum. Now these things did not even belong to the Franciscans,
+but had been carefully stored in the sacristy by the Pope and his
+cardinals during their last visit to the town. Great, therefore, was
+the wrath at the Papal Court when news came of the sacrilegious
+robbery, and without a moment's delay a bull of excommunication was
+fulminated from Avignon. For thirty-eight years Assisi lay under the
+heavy sentence of an interdict, and, except for the feast of the
+"Pardon of St. Francis," the church doors were closed and the church
+bells were silent. But not a whit did the people care for the anger of
+a distant Pope, and it is related that when the two friars brought the
+bull of excommunication to Ser Muzio di Francesco, the leader of the
+robbers, they were flogged within an inch of their lives, and further,
+they were made to swallow the seals of lead which hung from the Papal
+document.
+
+The Assisans, having obtained the necessary funds, set to work to
+defend themselves against the enemy who were to be seen rolling their
+heavy catapults along the dusty roads. A proud historian says, "they
+saw without flinching 500 horsemen galloping round their walls," and
+with a heroism worthy of so good a cause, determined to be buried in
+the ruins of their city sooner than cede one step to their abhorred
+enemies the Perugians. They closed the shops, barred the houses and
+threw the chains across the streets to stop advancing cavalry; every
+artisan turned soldier, every noble watched from the tower of his
+palace. Not only were they guarding their own liberties, but they
+feared for the safety of the body of St. Francis, which the Perugians,
+ever prowling day and night about the walls, were anxious to carry
+off. The siege, it is said, lasted a year, when the Assisans were
+forced to give way and open their gates to the enemy, who sacked the
+town, "killing more than one hundred of the most wicked citizens, to
+wit, all those who fought against the city of Perugia." Then came a
+perilous moment, for many, not content with a barbarous pillage,
+wished to destroy Assisi altogether. Fortunately a wily Perugian,
+Massiolo di Buonante, stood up in her defence, arguing that "Assisi
+being now in their power, it were better to possess her fortified, and
+well provided against any new attack of the Ghibelline party."[8] His
+words had due effect, but still the town suffered horribly, and her
+walls only lately built were in greater part razed to the ground. The
+chains that guarded the streets together with the bars and keys of the
+gates were taken back to Perugia, where, until a century ago, they
+hung "as glorious trophies" from the claws of the bronze griffon
+outside the Palazzo Pubblico. Before leaving, the Perugians gave their
+orders to the now submissive city. The Guelphs were to live within the
+ancient circle of walls in the upper and more fortified part of the
+town, while the Ghibellines were left in the undefended suburbs.
+
+  [Illustration: THE GUELPH LION OF ASSISI]
+
+They further commanded that each year, on the feast of St. Ercolano,
+the Assisans should bring them a banner "worth at least 25 golden
+florins, _in signum subjectionis_." This was the greatest ignominy of
+all, and rankled even more deeply in the hearts of the citizens of
+Assisi than the fact of their being governed by Perugian officials.
+The delivery of the yearly tribute was performed in a manner highly
+characteristic of the times and of the love of petty tyranny and
+display peculiar to the mediæval towns. An Assisan horseman mounted on
+a splendidly caparisoned charger brought the hated emblem to lay
+before the Priors of Perugia, who robed in crimson, with heavy golden
+chains about their necks, waited at the foot of the campanile of San
+Lorenzo. Close to them stood four mace bearers and trumpeters with
+white griffins painted on the red satin streamers which hung from the
+silver trumpets. Nothing was neglected that would impress her subjects
+with the dignity of her hill-set city. All the Perugians were
+assembled, and in their name the Priors promised to defend Assisi
+against her enemies and to preserve her from the yoke of tyrants.
+Having uttered this solemn mockery, they gave the Podestà of Assisi a
+sealed book wherein were written the laws to be observed in return for
+the inestimable favours granted; the book was not to be opened until
+he and his retinue had returned to their own city. The spirit of the
+Assisans was by no means crushed by their misfortunes, and shortly
+after the events we have just narrated they issued an edict with a
+pomp worthy of Perugia herself which fairly puzzled the Priors of that
+city. All Perugians holding land in Assisi were herein ordered to pay
+the taxes usually demanded of "strangers" possessing property in the
+territory; further, the Assisans proclaimed their firm determination
+no longer to observe any orders given to them by the Commune of
+Perugia. This audacity was, however, soon checked. Perugia issued an
+order to the effect that these statutes, and these alone, which were
+decreed by herself were to be valid in Assisi, all others were
+worthless. Assisi therefore remained subject to Perugia till 1367,
+when Cardinal Albornoz who was engaged in recovering the allegiance of
+the Papal States, entered her gates. He was received with wild
+enthusiasm by the citizens, for they hailed him as their deliverer
+from the hated yoke of the Perugians. The Assisans had every reason to
+rejoice in this change of masters, as the Cardinal allowed them to
+govern their town like a free republic; he rebuilt the walls
+destroyed during the last siege, and the castle which had also
+suffered much from the Perugian soldiery. The people were delighted,
+and their artists were soon busily employed in painting the gilded
+arms of the church on gateways and on palaces.
+
+During his brief sojourn in Assisi the war-like Cardinal had found
+such peace as he had probably not often known before, and such was his
+love for the church of San Francesco that he added to it several
+chapels and chose a place for his tomb within its walls. He died at
+Viterbo; and only five months after the Assisans had welcomed him with
+such rejoicing, they went with torches and candles, to bear his dead
+body back to San Francesco, the Priors, says a chronicler, spending
+145 florins upon the crimson gowns they bought for this occasion.
+
+Days of peace and liberty were short, and the Assisans were soon
+groaning beneath the enormous taxes laid upon them by the zealous
+ministers of the Pope. In 1376 their indignation rose to such a pitch
+that they broke into open rebellion, and joined in the war-cry against
+the Church, which was to be heard in other towns of Tuscany and
+Umbria. The citizens besieged the Legates in their palaces and ordered
+them with haughty words to depart; so seeing it was safer to obey,
+they returned to Rome without a word. "Because of their love for the
+holy Pontiff, whose servants they were, the Assisans used no violence
+towards them," but having got their way with polite bows accompanied
+them safely beyond the city gates. But at this time, when all was war
+and conspiracy, there seemed no chance of a free life again for the
+people. No sooner had one tyrant been disposed of than another rose to
+take his place. When news of these events reached the Perugians they
+thought it a good opportunity to try and again get possession of the
+town, accordingly envoys were sent "just to put things in order" as
+they expressed it; but the Assisans shut the gates of the city in
+their faces and informed them that in future they intended to manage
+their own affairs. We cannot say that their endeavours were crowned
+with success, the nobles fought among themselves, while the mob was
+ever ready for any kind of novelty. It is related how in the year 1398
+the Assisans changed their mind three times in one day as to who
+should be their lord. "_Evviva_ the Church" was the first cry; the
+second, "_Evviva_ the people of Perugia"; and lastly, "_Evviva_ Messer
+Imbroglia," a roving adventurer who alternately fought for the Duke of
+Milan and the Pope, and finally entered Assisi at the head of a large
+cavalcade as Captain and Gonfalonier of the city.
+
+In the early centuries Assisi had bravely fought for her independence
+and held her own fairly well; but in the fourteenth century a sudden
+whirlwind swept across the country threatening to destroy the last
+remnant of her freedom. At this time the _condottieri_ were busy
+carving out principalities for themselves, and one after another they
+marched through the land forcing the towns to bear their yoke. Assisi,
+not without a sharp struggle, fell a prey to Biordo Michelotti and
+Braccio Fortebraccio, successive despots of Perugia; and the citizens
+found themselves for the next twenty years in turn the vassals of
+Guidantonio of Montefeltro, of Sforza, and of the Pope. In 1442
+Perugia was governed, in the name of the Pope, by Niccolò Piccinino,
+successor to Fortebraccio as the leader of the Bracceschi troops, and
+consequently a successor to the rivalry with Francesco Sforza, Duke of
+Milan. Assisi, therefore, who had spontaneously given herself to
+Sforza, preferring the tyranny of strangers to the yoke of Perugia,
+was not likely to be favourably looked on by Piccinino, and sooner or
+later he determined to besiege her. But just at this time Perugia had
+made peace with all the world, and, delighted with this novel state of
+things, she rang the great bell of the Commune, lit beacon fires on
+the hills, and sent a special messenger to Assisi to proclaim the
+fact. The Assisans, with more courage than discretion, cursed the
+messenger and those who sent him, saying they had half a mind to kill
+him. "Return with this message," they cried, "say unto those who sent
+thee, that they try to wipe us from the face of the earth and then
+send words of peace. But we will have war and only war." This
+insulting message was duly delivered to the astonished priors, and
+that night the beacon fires were extinguished. When news reached
+Assisi of the vast preparations in Perugia for war, these hasty words
+were regretted. Luckily Francesco Sforza sent the Assisans a good
+supply of troops, and every day they hoped for the arrival of his
+brother Alessandro.
+
+The month that followed was disastrous to Assisi, and the account of
+the war given us by the Perugian chronicler Graziani who took part in
+the siege, brings before us vividly the many stages she had to pass
+through before arriving at the calm, seraphic days of later years.
+
+By the end of October 1442, Niccolò Piccinino, alluded to always as
+_el Capitano_, arrived in the plain below Assisi with some 20,000 men,
+and took up his quarters in the Franciscan monastery of San Damiano.
+His first intention was to take the town by assault, but on surveying
+the fortifications and walls and the impregnable castle, he deemed it
+wiser to wait quietly until hunger should have damped the valour of
+the citizens. Help, however, came to him from another quarter. It is
+believed that a Franciscan friar, perhaps one of those with whom he
+lodged at San Damiano, betrayed to him a way into the town by means
+of an unused drain.
+
+"On Wednesday, being the 28th day of November, the Captain's people
+entered Assisi by an underground drain, which, beginning below the
+smaller fortress towards the Carceri, enters Assisi near the
+market-place below the castle. There Pazaglia, Riccio da Castello, and
+Nicolo Brunoro, with more than 300 men-at-arms, had seen to clearing
+the said sewer and cutting through some iron bars at the exit placed
+by the Assisans so that none might enter; and Pazaglia and his
+companions worked so well that they entered with all their people one
+by one. And when they had entered they emerged inside the walls, and
+advanced without any noise, holding close to the side of the said
+walls so as not to be seen, although the darkness of the night was
+great and drizzling rain was falling. But it happened that one of
+those within passed by with a lighted torch in his hand, and, hearing
+and seeing people, said several times: 'Who goes there.' At last
+answer was made to him: 'Friends, friends.' The bearer of the torch
+went but a little farther before he began to cry out: 'To arms, to
+arms. Awake, awake, for the enemy is within.' So a great tumult arose
+throughout the town. Then Pazaglia and his companions, finding they
+were discovered, mounted the walls and shouted to those outside:
+'Ladders, ladders. Enter, enter.'"[9]
+
+With cries of "Braccio, Braccio," the captain led his men rapidly
+through the town, burning the gate, killing the citizens, and
+pillaging every palace as they passed along. When Alessandro Sforza
+who had stolen into Assisi the night before, "to comfort and encourage
+the citizens," found that the enemy was within he hurried with a few
+Assisan notables to take refuge in the castle. From the tower-girt
+hill he looked down upon the scene of carnage--and what a sight it was
+as pictured by Graziani!
+
+"The anguish, the noise, and the screams of women and children! God
+alone knows how fearful a thing it was to see them all dishevelled;
+some tearing their faces, some beating their breasts, one weeping for
+a father, one for a son, another for a brother, as, crying with loud
+voices, they prayed to God for death.... But, in truth, these same
+Assisans did themselves much injury, greatly adding to their own
+trouble. They might have saved many more of their chattels had they
+trusted the Perugians, but rather did they trust the strangers, and
+this to their undoing, for the said strangers deceived them. Thus was
+proved the truth of that proverb which says: 'The offender never
+pardons.' Often aforetime had they offended the Commune of Perugia as
+we have seen. Even at this moment, when its forces were encamped
+outside Assisi, they constantly stood on their walls and hurled
+insulting and menacing words at the Perugians, defying and threatening
+them, whom for this reason peradventure they did not trust.... Also on
+the same day, while the city was being sacked, a multitude of women
+with their children and goods, took sanctuary in Santa Chiara; and
+when the captain passed and saw so many women and children sheltered
+there, he said to the women, especially to the nuns of Santa Chiara,
+that it was no longer a safe refuge for them, and if they would choose
+where they wished to go he would send them thither in safety. Then,
+naming to them all the neighbouring towns, he lastly offered to place
+them in safety in the city of Perugia. But when they heard the name of
+Perugia, first the nuns and then the other women replied, 'May Perugia
+be destroyed by fire.' And when the captain heard this answer, he
+immediately cried, 'Pillage, pillage!' Thus was everything plundered
+and ruined--the convent with the nuns, the women and the children, and
+much booty was there...."[10]
+
+Assisi, now the shell of her former self, seemed indeed a city of the
+dead. Through her deserted streets, running with the blood of the
+slain, echoed the sound of falling rafters and crumbling palaces,
+while bon-fires flamed on the piazza fed with the public archives by
+the destroying Perugians. Across the Tiber were to be seen the unhappy
+citizens being driven like droves of cattle by their captors up the
+hill to the city they hated. There the women, with their children
+clinging round their necks, were sold in the market-place as slaves,
+and exposed to the cruellest treatment by their masters. Even tiny
+children of four and five years old were sold; a maiden, we are told,
+fetched fifteen ducats, and many were bought, sometimes for the love
+of God, and sometimes as maidservants. Every day fresh booty was
+brought in, and the Perugians fought over the gold chalices, missals,
+and other treasures robbed from churches and convents; but these
+brought lower prices, for even Perugian consciences seem to have been
+troubled with scruples, and superstitious fear kept them from buying
+stolen church property. While the slave market was proceeding amidst
+the clanging of bells proclaiming the victory, the Priors of Perugia
+sat in their council hall of the great Palazzo Pubblico discussing how
+they could bring about the total annihilation of Assisi. The following
+curious letter was finally written, sealed, and sent to Niccolò
+Piccinino by five ambassadors who were to tempt him to do the deed
+with a bribe of 15,000 ducats:
+
+"Your illustrious Signory being well aware how that city has ever
+been the scandal of this one, and that now the time has come to take
+this beam from out of our eyes, we pray and supplicate your
+illustrious Signory, in the name of this city and of the State, that
+it may please you to act in such wise that this your city shall never
+again have reason to fear her; and so, as appears good to all the
+community, it will be well to raze her to the ground, saving only the
+churches. And this will be the most singular among other favours that
+your illustrious Signory has ever done to us."[11]
+
+"Trust in my words and trust in my deeds," replied Piccinino to the
+bearers of this truly mediæval letter; but, adds the chronicler, he
+refused his consent to their cowardly scheme for the destruction of
+the town. It is believed that he was acting upon orders received from
+Eugenius IV, who appears as the benevolent genius of Assisi, until, as
+the local historians tell us with rage, the Pope offered to sell them
+to the Commune of Perugia, when his clemency seems due solely to the
+fact that the papal coffers were sadly empty. Luckily the Perugians,
+somewhat in debt owing to the late war, were unable to pay the price,
+and Assisi thus escaped being given "like a lamb to the butcher,"
+while her enemy missed the chance "of removing that beam from out of
+her eye."
+
+From this time onward Assisi remained in the possession of the Church,
+and many of the Popes, touched by the miserable condition of the town,
+supplied money to rebuild its ruined walls and palaces, and thus
+induce the citizens to return and inhabit the desolate city. But
+hardly had the Assisans succeeded in getting back some kind of order
+and prosperity than new wars appeared to ruffle the onward flow of
+things. This time the danger came from within, and in Assisi, as in
+so many of the cities of Italy, it was the feud between the nobles
+themselves that drenched the streets with blood and crushed the
+struggles of a people whose cries for liberty were now only faintly
+heard. All sank beneath the heavy hand of the despot. The Perugian
+citizens were being tyrannised over by the powerful family of the
+Baglioni, whose name brings up a picture of crime and bloodshed that
+has hardly been equalled in any town in Italy.[12] In Assisi the
+balance of power lay between the two families of Fiumi and Nepis, who,
+in the irregular fashion of the time, alternately ruled the city in
+opposition to the legal sovereignty of the Papacy. The city was
+sharply divided into the Upper town, where the Nepis had their palaces
+near the castle and San Rufino, and the Lower town, inhabited entirely
+by the Fiumi and their adherents, which clustered round the church of
+Santa Chiara and down to San Francesco. These two families sought
+perpetually to outshine each other, and such was the reputation they
+gained among the people in the country round that even the Perugian
+chroniclers speak of them as "most cultured and splendid citizens,"
+praising their horsemanship and the magnificence of their dress. So
+great was the rivalry between the members of the two families Fiumi
+and Nepis that, when they met in the piazza of Assisi where the nobles
+often walked in the evening, they would provoke each other with
+scornful looks and words, and often this was a signal for a skirmish.
+The _bravi_ would gather round them, and in an instant the whole town
+be roused to arms. After a sharp fight one party was driven to retire
+to its strongholds in the open country, while the victorious nobles
+seized the reins of government, and the weary citizens sank beneath
+the rule of the despots. Assisi presented a most melancholy spectacle
+at the end of one of these encounters. Most of the dwellings of the
+exiled nobles lay in ruins, the churches were shut in consequence of
+the perpetual bloodshed, and the palaces, barred and chained, with the
+gratings drawn up before the entrance, seemed to be inhabited by no
+living being. Franciscan friars stole along the streets on their
+errands of mercy among the distressed citizens, who, besides the
+horrors of the city feuds, suffered from the pestilence and famine
+which decimated nearly all the towns of Italy at this period. But this
+death-like silence within the town was never of long duration. The
+exiled party, ever on the alert to regain possession of their homes,
+would creep into the town at some unguarded moment and once more stir
+a people to fight who were beginning to chafe beneath the irksome rule
+of the rival despots.
+
+A climax of evils came when, in addition to a hundred other ills, the
+Baglioni of Perugia took upon themselves to interfere.
+
+In 1494 we find the Fiumi and the Nepis living peaceably in their
+palaces, dividing the power in Assisi, until at last the hot-headed
+Fiumi grew weary of the even balance of things, and determined at one
+stroke to rid themselves of every foe. In open combat they had
+attempted this and failed, so a treacherous plot was hatched. Jacopo
+Fiumi, head of the house, and his brother Alessandro, persuaded their
+friends, the Priors of the city, to prepare a great banquet in the
+Communal Palace and invite all the members of the rival family to be
+present. Unarmed, and not dreaming of danger, the Nepis entered the
+big hall. No sooner had they thrown off their cloaks than the Fiumi
+rushed upon them with drawn swords and knives. Angered by such wanton
+treachery, the citizens drove the murderers from the city; and the
+Priors, protected by the darkness of the night, fled into the open
+country to seek a refuge in some neighbouring town.
+
+Now this event, like many others, might have subsided and been
+followed by a period of peace, only it happened that the Baglioni were
+allies of the Nepis and ready to avenge them in Assisi. They had,
+moreover, old scores to settle with Jacopo Fiumi, who, Matarazzo tells
+us, in pained surprise, "was a most cruel enemy of the house of
+Baglioni and of every Perugian, and studied day and night how he might
+injure those of Perugia, so that he was the cause of much trouble to
+the magnificent house of Baglioni."[13] This was therefore a good
+opportunity for the Baglioni to lay siege to Assisi, and perpetual
+skirmishes took place in the plain, which sapped the life-blood of the
+citizens and laid waste the Umbrian country for many miles around. The
+peasants, whose grain had been trampled down by the Baglioni, were
+driven half-naked into the woods, and watched the high roads from the
+heights above Assisi like birds of prey, swooping down to rob or kill
+travellers passing by. Badgers, wolves, and foxes roamed unmolested in
+the plain, and fed upon the unburied bodies of the murdered travellers
+and of those who fell in battle; while, in the dead of night, the
+friars of the Portiuncula stole out to bury what bones the wild beasts
+had left. Things had come to such a pass that the Assisans, as we are
+told, knew not what to say or do, so many of their number were dead or
+taken captive and the enemy was ever at their gates. Giovan Paolo,
+mounted on his black charger, "which did not run but flew," led the
+Perugians to storm the town and draw the citizens out to battle. He
+was one of the fiercest of the Baglioni brood and a famous soldier,
+and yet it was in vain he sought to inspire the Assisans with fear.
+"Indeed," says Matarazzo, "each one proved himself valiant on either
+side; for the Assisans had become warlike and inured to arms, and they
+were all iniquitous and desperate."[14] The foes were of equal
+strength and courage, and the war, which had already lasted three
+years, seemed likely to have no end. But one day the Assisans,
+watching from their ramparts, saw a large squadron of soldiers
+hurrying from Perugia to the aid of the Baglioni, and they began to
+ring the city bells as a signal that the moment had come for the final
+stand. Those who were skirmishing in the plain against Giovan Paolo
+began to lose heart when they heard the clanging of the bells, and the
+Perugians, perceiving their advantage, took new courage, so that "each
+one became as a lion." More than sixty Assisans were slain that day,
+while the prisoners suffered cruelly under the vengeance of those who
+took this opportunity of remembering offences of past years. "And thus
+did his lordship, the magnificent Giovan Paolo, return victorious and
+joyful from this great and dangerous battle."[15]
+
+Once the gates of Assisi were forced open, the Baglioni and their
+_bravi_ scoured the streets from end to end, killing all they
+encountered, and dragging from the churches the poor women who sought
+shelter and protection. The blood-thirsty brood did not even respect
+the Church of San Francesco; and the friars, in a letter to their
+patron Guidobaldo, Duke of Urbino, complain most bitterly of the
+crimes committed within the sacred edifice, even on the very steps of
+the altar. "The poor city of Assisi," the letter says, "has known only
+sorrow through the perpetual raids of the Baglioni, whose many crimes
+would be condemned even by the infidel Turks. They rebel against the
+holy Pontiff, and such is their ferocity that they have set fire to
+the gates of the city--even unto that of the Basilica of San
+Francesco. They do not shudder to murder men, cook their flesh, and
+give it to the relations of the slain to eat in their prison
+dungeons."[16] Matarazzo also dwells on the sad conditions of Assisi
+during her final struggle for independence. "So great was the
+pestilence and the famine within the walls that human tongue could not
+describe it, for great woe there was, and such scarcity and penury in
+Assisi as had never been known. I myself have talked to men who were
+in Assisi at that time, and who, on remembering those days of famine,
+pestilence, and war were bathed in tears; and, if the subject had come
+up a thousand times in a day, a thousand times would they have wept
+bitterly, so dark was the memory thereof. Not only did they weep, but
+those also who listened to them, for they would recount how they
+wandered by the walls of the town, and down to the hamlets, and in
+every place searching for herbs to eat; and how, forced by hunger,
+they ate all manner of cooked herbs, and many people sustained
+themselves with three or four cooked nuts dipped in wine, and with
+this they made good cheer."[17]
+
+In reading the terrible chronicle of these years, one asks, "How did
+any life survive in the face of such ghastly suffering?" The strange
+fact remains that life not only survived, but that the Assisans even
+flourished during the period, and, like half-drowned birds, who,
+rising to the surface, bask for a while in the sunshine and then
+spread their wings for a fresh flight, they too arose and prospered.
+But the time was drawing near when these continual efforts were no
+longer needed. The rival factions had reached the summit of their
+savage strength, and the city despots were soon to be swept from the
+land by the whirlwind they themselves had raised.
+
+In the year 1500, during one awful night of carnage at Perugia, the
+Baglioni were nearly all murdered through the treachery of some of
+their own family. The manner in which the clansmen sought out their
+victims and stabbed them in their sleep, driving their teeth into
+their hearts in savage fury, sent a thrill of horror throughout Italy.
+The downfall of this powerful house affected the destiny of Assisi,
+for Perugia was brought under the immediate dominion of the church,
+and with the advent of Paul III, she lost her independence, which she
+never again recovered. A mighty fortress was erected on the site of
+the Baglioni palaces, and the significant words "_Ad coercendam
+Perusinorum audacam_" were inscribed upon its walls. The Farnese Pope
+meant to warn, not only the citizens of that proud city which he had
+brought so successfully within his net, but also the Assisans and the
+other Umbrians who, with anxious eyes, were watching the storms that
+wrecked Perugia.
+
+With this new order of things the last flicker of mediæval liberty was
+being extinguished, and when Paul III, ordered the cannons from the
+castle of Assisi to be transferred to his new fortress at Perugia, the
+Assisans felt that a crisis had been reached and that henceforth they
+must be guided by the menacing finger of an indomitable pontiff. One
+last effort she did indeed make to save her dignity: she begged to be
+governed independently of her old rival Perugia. To this the Pope
+agreed, and a Papal Legate came with great pomp and was met outside
+the gates by the Priors, nobles, and citizens of Assisi. With that
+great Farnese fortress looming in the distance they were forced to
+make some show of gladness as they followed him in solemn procession
+through the town and up the steep hill to the Rocca Maggiore. Here the
+Legate walked round the ramparts and through the spacious halls of the
+castle, taking possession of all in the name of the Church of Rome.
+Then the Castellano knelt down before him, and as he handed the keys
+over to his keeping, the history of war and strife in Assisi abruptly
+closed.
+
+  [Illustration: THE ARMS OF ASSISI]
+
+  [Illustration: ASSISI IN THE TIME OF ST. FRANCIS]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] The legend may have arisen from the fact that Minerva had a temple
+near Miletos under the title of Assesia and the legend-weavers have
+caught at the similarity of sound to that of their own Umbrian town.
+
+[2] _Carmina_, i. 22, translated by R. C. Trevelyan.
+
+[3] _Carmina_, IV. i. 121; translated by R. C. Trevelyan. In another
+place Propertius gives bolder utterance to his pride: "Whosoever
+beholds the town climbing the valley side, let him measure the fame of
+their walls by my genius" (_Carmina_, iv. 5).
+
+[4] See Cristofani, _Storia d'Assisi_, p. 42 for text of the MS.
+
+[5] Dante, _Inferno_, xix. p. 115. Translated by John Milton.
+
+[6] See _Les Nouveaux Mémoires de l'Academie de Bruxelles_ (t. xxiii.
+pp. 29, 33); also _Un nouveau Chapitre de la Vie de S. François
+d'Assise_, par Paul Sabatier.
+
+[7] Perugia was, on the whole, faithful to the Guelph cause. She was
+patronised by the Popes on account of her strong position overlooking
+the Tiber, and when inclined she freely acknowledged them as her
+masters but at the same time she was careful to guard her
+independence.
+
+[8] _Cronaca Graziani_, p. 522.
+
+[9] _Cronaca Graziani_, pp. 512 and 513.
+
+[10] _Cronaca Graziani_, p. 513.
+
+[11] _Cronaca Graziani_, p. 514, note 1.
+
+[12] For a full account of the Baglioni see the sixteenth-century
+chronicle of Matarazzo (_Archivio Storico Italiano_, vol. xvi. part
+ii.), who has immortalised their crimes in classic language; and also
+_The Story of Perugia_ (Mediæval Towns Series, J. M. Dent & Co.).
+
+[13] _Cronaca Matarazzo_, p. 75.
+
+[14] _Cronaca Matarazzo_, p. 75.
+
+[15] _Ibid._
+
+[16] Fratini, _Storia della Basilica di San Francesco_, p. 287.
+
+[17] _Cronaca di Matarazzo_, p. 75.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+_The Umbrian Prophet_
+
+   "Fra santi il pui santo, e tra i peccatori quasi uno di
+   loro."--Celano. _Vita_ I. cap. xxix.
+
+
+Often while reading the Italian chroniclers we forget that a life of
+chivalry, song, tournament, and pagan pleasure-making was passed in a
+mediæval town even while war, pestilence, and famine cast a settled
+gloom on every home. Lazar-houses stood at the gates of the city while
+sumptuous feasts were spread in the banqueting halls of palaces. Men
+rebelled against the ugliness and squalor produced by a hundred ills
+that swept over Italy during the twelfth century,[18] and so it came
+about that in the darkest hours of a city's history, scenes of maddest
+revelry were enacted. At this period were founded the Brigate Amorose,
+or Companies of young nobles, whose one aim in life was amusement.
+There were few towns in Italy, however small, in which these gay
+youths did not organise magnificent sports and tournaments[19] to
+which the ladies came in gowns of rich brocades or "fair velvet,"
+their tresses garlanded with precious jewels and flowers. Or knights,
+ladies, and other folk would meet in the piazzas and pass the summer
+evenings with
+
+     "Provençal songs and dances that surpass;
+     And quaint French mummings: and through hollow brass
+     A sound of German music in the air."[20]
+
+Late at night after a splendid banquet, the nobles wandered through
+the streets singing as they followed the lead of one chosen by
+themselves, whom they called the Lord of Love. Sometimes their ranks
+were swelled by passing troubadours from Provence who sang of the
+feats of Charlemagne and of King Arthur and his knights. For it was
+the time when Bernard de Ventadour was singing some of his sweetest
+love lyrics, and people were alternately laughing at the
+whimsicalities of Pierre Vidal and weeping at the tender pathos of his
+poems.[21] Those who listened to these songsters were, for the moment,
+deceived into thinking life was full of love and mirth, and sorrow
+only touched them when their lady frowned. The music of Provence found
+a way across the Alps to the feudal courts of Este and Ferrara, to
+Verona, and later, southwards to Sicily, where Frederick the Great was
+king. It came even to the towns which lay hidden in the folds of the
+Umbrian mountains, and some of its sweetest strains were echoed back
+again from Assisi. Her troubadour was Francis Bernardone, the rich
+merchant's son, leader of the young nobles who, in their carousals,
+named him Lord of Love, and placed the kingly sceptre in his hand as
+he walked at their head through the streets at night, rousing the
+sleepy Assisan burghers with wild bursts of song.
+
+Francis had learned the Provençal language from his mother, Madonna
+Pica, whom Pietro Bernardone[22] is said to have met while journeying
+from castle to castle in Provence, tempting the ladies to buy his
+merchandise as he told them news of Italy. The early writers do not
+mention her nationality, they only allude to her as _Madonna_, which
+might imply that she was of noble birth; the later legend, which says
+that she was of the family of the counts of Bourlemont, is without
+foundation. We know she was a good and tender mother to Francis, who
+was left mostly in her charge, as Pietro Bernardone was so often
+absent in France. She taught him to love the world of romance and
+chivalry peopled by the heroes of the troubadours, and there he found
+an escape from the gloom that enveloped Assisi during those early days
+of warfare which were enough to sadden that joyous nature rarely found
+among saints. Celano gives a graphic picture of the temptations to
+which the youths of the middle ages were exposed, even in infancy in
+their own homes. This danger Francis escaped, but the companions with
+whom he spent the first twenty years of his life in gay living had not
+been so well guarded, and Francis was not slow to feel the influence
+of his time. We must remember that the accounts we have of him were
+written under the papal eye, and it is patent that both as sinner and
+as saint he took a leading part.
+
+"He was always first among his equals in all vanities," says Celano,
+"the first instigator of evil, and behind none in foolishness, so that
+he drew upon himself the attention of the public by vain-glorious
+extravagance, in which he stood foremost. He was not chary of jokes,
+ridicule, light sayings, evil-speaking, singing, and in the wearing of
+soft and fine clothes; being very rich he spent freely, being less
+desirous of accumulating wealth than of dissipating his substance;
+clever at trafficking, but too vain to prevent others from spending
+what was his: withal a man of pleasant manners, facile and courteous
+even to his own disadvantage; for this reason, therefore, many,
+through his fault, became evil-doers and promoters of scandal. Thus,
+surrounded by many worthless companions, triumphantly and scornfully
+he went upon his way."[23]
+
+His early years passed away in feasting and singing with an occasional
+journey to a neighbouring town to sell the Bernardone wares, until
+1202 when war broke out between Perugia and Assisi, and the big bell
+of the cathedral called the citizens to arms in the Piazza della
+Minerva. Men gathered round their captain, while from the windows of
+every house women gesticulated wildly, almost drowning the clank of
+armour and the tramp of horses by their shrill screams. Francis, on a
+magnificent charger, rode out of the city gates abreast with the
+nobles of Assisi, filling the bourgeois heart of Pietro with delight,
+that a son of his should be thus honoured. It was a beautiful sight to
+see the communal armies winding down to the plain, one coming from the
+western hill, the other from the southern, to match their strength by
+the Tiber. They were "troops of knights, noble in face and form,
+dazzling in crest and shield; horse and man one labyrinth of quaint
+colour and gleaming light--the purple, and silver, and scarlet fringes
+flowing over the strong limbs and clashing mail like sea waves over
+rocks at sunset."[24]
+
+The Assisans were vanquished: no details of the fight have come down
+to us, but we know that the nobles lay in a Perugian prison for a year
+and that it was Francis who cheered them, often astonishing them with
+his wild spirits. They told him he was mad to dance so gaily in a
+prison, but nothing saddened him in those days.
+
+When peace was at last made, with hard terms for Assisi, the prisoners
+returned home and threw themselves with renewed vigour into their
+former pursuit of pleasure, and soon afterwards Francis fell ill of a
+fever which brought him near the grave. Face to face with death he
+stood a while, and the result of the danger he had passed through
+worked an extraordinary change in his nature. His recovery was in
+reality a return to a new life, both of body and soul. Celano tells us
+that Francis "being somewhat stronger and able to walk about the house
+leaning on a stick, in order to complete his restoration to health one
+day went forth and with unusual eagerness gazed at the vast extent of
+country which lay before him; yet neither the charm of the vineyards
+or of aught that is pleasant to look on, were of any consolation to
+him."[25]
+
+It was probably from the Porta Nuova, close to where the church of
+Santa Chiara now stands, that he looked out on the Umbrian country he
+loved so well. Here Mount Subasio rises grey and bleak above the olive
+groves which slope gradually down to the valley where a white road
+leads past Spello to Foligno in the plain and on to Spoleto high up in
+the mountain gorge which brings the valley to a close. All these towns
+were dear and familiar to Francis. He had watched them in spring time
+when the young corn was ripening near their walls and the children
+came out to look for the sweet scented narcissi. While wandering on
+the hill sides at dawn he had seen the brown roofs warmed by the first
+rays of the sun and each window twinkle like so many eyes across the
+plain in answer to the light. But as he looked now upon the same scene
+a great sadness came over him, and we are told he wondered at the
+sudden inward change. That hour in the smiling Umbrian landscape was
+the most solitary he ever experienced; ill and weak he awoke to the
+emptiness of the life he had hitherto led, and in the bitterness of
+his soul he did not know where to turn for comfort.[26]
+
+It is a remarkable fact that Celano does not from this moment picture
+Francis as an aureoled saint, but allows us to realise the many
+difficulties he had to overcome before he stands once more among the
+vineyards with a song of praise upon his lips, and a look of victory
+in his eyes.
+
+Although Francis began to "despise those things he had formerly held
+dear," he was not altogether freed from the bonds of vanity, nor had
+he "thrown off the yoke of servitude"; for when restored to health he
+was full of ambitious projects to make a great career for himself in
+the world. The realisation of his dreams seemed indeed near, as it
+happened at this time that a noble knight of Assisi was preparing to
+join the army of Gauthier de Brienne, then fighting the battles of
+Pope Innocent III, in Apulia. Francis, "greedy of glory," determined
+to accompany the knight to the wars, and began to prepare for the
+journey with more than usual magnificence. He was all impatience to
+start, and his mind was full of the expedition when he had a dream
+which filled him with hope. In lieu of the bales of silk in his
+father's warehouse, stood saddles, shields, and lances, all marked
+with the red cross, and as he marvelled at the sight a voice told him
+those arms were intended for himself and his soldiers. Rising next
+morning full of ambitious plans after such an omen of good fortune, he
+mounted his charger and rode through the town bidding farewell to his
+friends. He smiled on all and seemed so light of heart that they
+pressed round asking what made him so merry. "I shall yet be a great
+prince," he answered, and he passed out of the Porta Nuova, where but
+a short while before he had stood looking down so sadly on the valley
+he was now to traverse as an armoured knight. At Spoleto he had a
+return of intermittent fever, and while chafing at the delay a voice
+called to him: "Francis, who can do the most good, the master or the
+servant?"
+
+"The master," answered Francis, not in the least astonished by the
+mysterious question.
+
+"Why then dost thou leave the master for the servant, and the prince
+for the follower? Return to thy country, there shalt thou be told what
+to do; for thou hast mistaken the meaning and wrongly interpreted the
+vision sent thee by God."
+
+Next morning, leaving the knight to continue the journey alone, he
+mounted his horse and returned to Assisi, where he was doubtless
+received with disappointment by his parents, and with gibes by the
+citizens who had listened to his boasts of future greatness. Once
+again he went back to work in his father's shop, but now when the
+young nobles called to him to join in their revels he went listlessly,
+often escaping from their midst to wander alone in the fields or pass
+long hours praying in a grotto near the city. One day his friends, in
+despair at his frequent absences, gave a grand banquet, making him
+"King of the feast." He delighted them all with fitful bursts of merry
+wit, but at last when the revellers rushed out into the night to roam
+about the town till dawn, Francis fell back from the gay throng, and
+stood gazing up at the calm Umbrian sky decked in all its splendour of
+myriad stars. When the others returned in search of their leader,
+they, wondering at the change that had come over the wildest spirit of
+Assisi, assailed him with questions. "Are you thinking of marrying,
+Francis," cried one jester, and amidst the laughter of all came his
+quiet answer: "Yes, a wife more noble and more beautiful than ye have
+ever seen; she will outshine all others in beauty and in wisdom."
+Already the image of the Lady Poverty had visited him, and enamoured
+like a very troubadour he composed songs in her honour as he walked in
+the woods near Assisi.
+
+The kind heart of Francis had always been touched at the sight of the
+poor lepers, who, exiled from the companionship of their fellow
+creatures, lived in a lazar-house on the plain, about a mile from the
+town. But his compassion for their misery was mingled with a strong
+feeling of repugnance, so that he had always shunned these wretched
+outcasts. "When I was in the bondage of sin," he tells us in his will,
+"it was bitter to me, and loathsome to see, and loke uppon persouny
+enfect with leopre; but that blessed Lord broughte me amonge them, and
+I did mercy with them, and departing from them, what before semyd
+bittre and lothesomme was turned and changed to me in great sweetnesse
+and comfort both of body and of soule, and afterwards in this state I
+stode and abode a lytle while, and then I lefte and forsooke the
+worldly lyf."[27]
+
+Pietro Bernardone now saw his son, clothed in rags, his face pinched
+and white from long vigils spent in prayer, going forth on errands of
+mercy, jeered at by the citizens, pelted with stones and filth by the
+children. There were many storms in the Bernardone household which the
+gentle Pica was unable to quell; and when finally Francis began to
+throw his father's money among the poor in the same regal manner in
+which he had once spent it among his boon companions, Bernardone could
+bear it no longer, and drove his son from the house. When they met he
+cursed him, and the family bonds thus severed were never again
+renewed.
+
+Francis was still like a pilgrim uncertain of his goal, or like a man
+standing before a heavy burden which he feels unable to lift. What was
+he to do with his life--how could he help the poor and suffering--were
+questions he asked himself over and over again as he vainly sought for
+an anchor in the troubled seas. The answer came to him one day as he
+was attending mass at the chapel of the Portiuncula on the feast of
+St. Matthew the apostle, in the year 1209.
+
+"And as ye go, preach, saying, The kingdom of heaven is at hand. Heal
+the sick, cleanse the lepers, raise the dead, cast out devils: freely
+ye have received, freely give. Provide neither gold, nor silver, nor
+brass in your purses, nor scrip for your journey, neither two coats,
+neither shoes, nor yet staves" ... read the priest from the gospel of
+the day. Those simple words were a revelation to Francis, who, when
+mass was over, ran out into the woods, and, with only the birds in
+the oak trees to witness his strange interpretation of the gospel,
+threw away his shoes, wallet, staff and well-filled purse. "This is
+what I desired; behold, here is what I searched for and am burning to
+perform," he cried, in the delirium of his new-found joy.
+
+If the Assisans had been astonished at his former eccentricities, as
+they termed his deeds of charity, they were yet more amazed to see him
+now, clothed in a coarse habit, with a knotted cord round his waist,
+and with bare feet, begging his bread from door to door. After a
+little while they grew accustomed to the hurrying figure of the young
+mendicant as he passed rapidly down the street greeting all he met
+with the salutation of "Our Lord give thee His peace." The words
+brought something new and strange into men's hearts, and those who had
+scoffed at him most drew near to learn the secret of their charm. The
+first to be touched by the simplicity and joyous saintliness of
+Francis was Bernardo di Quintevalle, a wealthy noble of Assisi, who
+had known him as King among the young Assisan revellers, and watched
+with astonishment his complete renouncement of the world. He
+determined to join Francis in ministering to the lepers, and began his
+new mode of life by selling all his possessions for the benefit of the
+poor. His conversion created a considerable stir in the town; and
+people had not ceased to gossip on the subject when another well-known
+citizen, Pietro de Catanio, a canon of the cathedral, also offered his
+services at the lazar-house. A few days later a labourer named Egidio
+"beholding how those noble knights of Assisi despised the world, so
+that the whole country stood amazed," came in search of Francis to beg
+him to take him as one of his companions. Francis met him at the
+entrance of the wood by the lazar hospital, and gazing on the devout
+aspect of Egidio, answered and said: "Brother most dear, God has shown
+Himself exceeding gracious unto thee. If the Emperor were to come to
+Assisi and desire to make a certain citizen his knight or private
+chamberlain, ought not such a one to be exceeding glad? How much more
+oughtest thou not to rejoice that God hath chosen thee out to be His
+knight and well-beloved servant, to observe the perfection of the Holy
+Gospel"?[28] and, taking him by the hand, he brought him to the hut
+which was their home. Here a merchant's son, a learned churchman, and
+a rich nobleman, welcomed an Assisan labourer in their midst with the
+simple brotherly love which was to be the keynote of the franciscan
+order. After the reception of Egidio we are told that Francis went
+with him to the Marches of Ancona, "singing glorious praises of the
+Lord of heaven and earth" as they travelled along the dusty roads.
+Albeit Francis did not preach publicly to the people, yet as he went
+by the way he admonished and corrected the men-folk and the
+women-folk, saying lovingly to them these simple words: "Love and fear
+God, and do fit penance for your sins." And Egidio would say: "Do what
+this my spiritual Father saith unto you, for he speaketh right well."
+
+It was not long before the fame of Francis drew quite a little
+community of brethren to the tiny hut in the plain, and the question
+naturally occurs--Did Francis plan out the creation of an order when
+he gathered men around him? It was so natural a thing for disciples to
+follow him that his biographers simply note it as a fact, and, not
+being given to speculation in those days, pass on to other events. We
+may be allowed to conjecture that the same ambition which some years
+before had stirred his longing to be a great prince was not dead,
+only his dreams were to be realised in another sphere of action. The
+qualities which made him the brilliant leader among the gay nobles of
+Assisi were now turned into another channel--he became a prince among
+saints, a controller of men's destinies.
+
+Varied indeed was the band of Francis' disciples, and it is
+interesting to see how each one was allowed to follow the bent of his
+nature. In this complete sympathy with character lay one of the
+secrets of his power. Egidio, who in the world had been a labourer,
+was encouraged by his master to continue his life in the open country.
+He gathered in the olives for the peasants, helped them with their
+vintage, and when the corn was being cut would glean the ears; but if
+anyone offered him a handful of grain, he remarked: "My brother, I
+have no granary wherein to store it." Usually he gave away what he had
+gleaned to the poor, so that he brought little food back to the
+convent. Always ready to turn his hand to every job, one day we find
+Egidio beating a walnut tree for a proprietor who could find none to
+do the work because the tree was so tall. But he set himself gaily to
+the task, and having made the sign of the Cross, "with great fear
+climbed up the walnut tree and beat it. The share that fell to him was
+so large that he could not carry it in his tunic, so taking off his
+habit he tied the sleeves and the hood together and made a sack of
+it."[29] With this load on his back he returned towards the convent,
+but on the way distributed all the nuts to the poor. Egidio remains
+the ideal type of the franciscan friar. "He is a Knight of my Round
+Table," said Francis one day as he recounted some new adventure which
+had befallen the intrepid brother, who was always journeying to some
+southern town, and is said even to have visited the Holy Land.[30]
+
+A very different man, drawn by the magic influence of Francis into the
+Order at the beginning of its fame in 1211, was Elias Buonbarone, the
+son of a Bolognese mattress-maker who had for some time been settled
+in Assisi. He is always represented by the biographers as haughty,
+overbearing, and fond of controlling the actions of others; in fact a
+strong contrast to the meek brother Leo whom Francis lovingly named
+the little lamb of God. But if lacking in saintly qualities, Elias
+possessed a remarkable mind and determination of character which
+enabled him afterwards to play a considerable part in the history of
+his times. He embodies the later franciscan spirit which grew up after
+the saint's death, and of which we shall treat in another chapter.
+
+When Francis found himself surrounded by some dozen followers, all
+anxious to obey his wishes to the very letter and waiting only to be
+sent hither and thither as he commanded, it became necessary to write
+down some rule of life. In simple words he enjoined all to live
+according to the precepts of the Gospel, "and they that came to
+reseyve this forme or manner of lyvynge departyd and distributed that
+they had and myght haue too powre people. And we were content with
+oone coote pesyd bothe within forthe and without forthe with oone
+corde and a femorall, and we wolde not haue ony more. Our dyvyne
+servyse the clerkis saide as other clerkis, and the lay bretherne said
+ther Pater noster. And we fulle gladly dwelt and taried in pour
+deserte and desolat churchys, and we were contente to be taken as
+ideotis and foolys of every man, and I did exercyse my self in bodily
+laboure. And I wille laboure, and yt ys my wille surely and
+steadfastely that alle the bretherne occupie and exercyse themself in
+laboure, and in such occupation and laboure as belongeth to honeste.
+And those that have no occupation to exercyse themself with alle,
+shall lerne not for covetis to resceyve the price or hier for their
+laboure, but for to give good example and eschewe and put away
+idlenesse. When we wer not satisfied nor recompensied for our laboure,
+we went and had recourse to the lord of oure Lorde, askynge almes from
+dore to dore. Our Lorde by reualation tawghte me to say this maner of
+salutation, 'Our Lorde give to thee His peace.'"[31]
+
+The first rule which Francis and his companions took in the summer of
+1210 to be confirmed by Innocent III, has not come down to us. In Rome
+they fortunately met the bishop of Assisi, who promised to obtain for
+them, through one of the Cardinals, an interview with the Pope. A
+legend tells us how Innocent, wrapt in deep meditation, was pacing
+with solemn step the terrace of the Lateran, when this strange company
+of ragged, bare-footed, dusty men was ushered into his presence. He
+looked at them in surprise, his lip curling in disdain as Francis
+stepped forward to make his request. From an Umbrian pilgrim he heard
+for the first time that power was not the greatest good in life while
+in poverty lay both peace and joy, and the great pope stood amazed at
+the new doctrine. "Who can live without temporal possessions,"
+sarcastically asked the Cardinals who had been trained in the spirit
+of Innocent, and the "Penitents of Assisi" bowed their heads, and
+drawing their hoods forward, went sorrowfully out of the pope's
+presence amid the jeers of his court. That night Innocent had a dream
+in which he saw the church of St John Lateran about to fall, and its
+tottering walls were supported on the shoulders of a man whom he
+recognised as the spokesman of the band of Umbrians he had so hastily
+dismissed. Full of strange visions the pope sent for Francis, who
+repeated his desire to have his rule confirmed. "My son," said
+Innocent, "your rule of life seems to us most hard and bitter, but
+although we do not doubt your fervour we must consider whether the
+road is not too hard a one for those who are to follow thee." Francis,
+with ready wit, answered these objections by a tale he invented for
+the purpose. "A beautiful but poor girl lived in a desert, and a great
+king, seeing her beauty, wished to take her to wife, thinking by her
+to have fine children. The marriage having taken place, many sons were
+born, and when they were grown up their mother thus spoke to them: 'My
+sons be not ashamed, for you are sons of the king; go therefore to his
+court and he will cause all that is needful to be given to you.' And
+when they came, the king, observing their beauty and seeing in them
+his own likeness and image, said: 'Whose sons are you?' And they
+answered; 'sons of a poor woman who lived in the desert.' So with
+great joy the king embraced them, saying: 'Be not afraid, for you are
+my sons, and when strangers eat at my table how much more right have
+you to eat who are my legitimate sons?' The king then ordered the said
+woman to send all sons born of her to be nourished at his court." "Oh,
+Messer," cried Francis, "I am that poor woman, beloved of God, and
+made beautiful through His mercy, by whom he was pleased to generate
+legitimate sons. And the King said to me that he will feed all the
+sons born of me, for as He feeds strangers so He may well feed His
+own."
+
+Thus did Francis describe his Lady Poverty, and boldly hint that the
+crimson-robed princes of the Church and the prelates of the Papal
+Court had strayed from the teaching of the Gospel.
+
+Who can say whether Innocent, watching with keen eyes the earnest face
+of the Umbrian teacher, began to realise the power such a man might
+have in restoring to the church some of its lost purity, and was
+planning how to yoke him to his service. This at least we know, that
+before Francis and his companions left Rome they received the tonsure
+which marked them as the Church's own, and with blessings and promises
+of protection Innocent sent this new and strange militia throughout
+the length and breadth of Italy to fight his spiritual battles. The
+simplicity and the love of Francis had conquered the Pope, and to the
+end continued to triumph over every difficulty.
+
+Such was the desire of Francis and his companions to return to Assisi
+with the good news, that they forgot to eat on the way and arrived
+exhausted in the valley of Spoleto, though still singing aloud for the
+joy in their hearts. Somewhere near Orte they found an Etruscan
+tomb--a delightful retreat for prayer. It so pleased Francis that a
+strong temptation came over him to abandon all idea of preaching and
+lead a hermit's life. For there was that in his nature which drew him
+into the deep solitude of the woods, and might have kept him away from
+men and the work that was before him. The battle in his soul waged
+fiercely as he stood upon the mountain side looking up the valley
+towards Assisi, but his heart went out to the people who dwelt there,
+and the strong impulse he had to help those who suffered and needed
+him won the day. The die was cast; he left his Etruscan retreat to
+take up once more the burden, and thus it was that, in the words of
+Matthew Arnold: "He brought religion to the people. He founded the
+most popular body of ministers of religion that has ever existed in
+the church. He transformed monachism by uprooting the stationary monk,
+delivering him from the bondage of property, and sending him, as a
+mendicant friar, to be a stranger and sojourner; not in the
+wilderness, but in the most crowded haunts of men, to console them,
+and to do them good."
+
+When Francis began his mission among the people of Italy it was the
+custom for only the bishops to preach; but as they lived in baronial
+splendour, enjoying the present, and amassing money which they
+extorted from their poor parishioners to leave to their families, they
+had little time to attend to spiritual duties. The people being
+therefore left much to their own devices, sank ever deeper into
+ignorance, sin, and superstition. They saw religion only from afar
+until Francis appeared "like a star shining in the darkness of the
+night" to bring to them the messages of peace and love. He came as one
+of themselves, poor, reviled and persecuted, and the wonder of it made
+the people throng in crowds to hear one who seemed indeed inspired.
+Those simple words from the depths of a great and noble heart filled
+all who listened with wonder. They were like the sharp cries of some
+wild bird calling to its mate--the people heard and understood them.
+When the citizens of an Umbrian town looked from their walls across
+the valley and saw the grey cloaked figure hurrying along the dusty
+road, they rang the bells to spread the good news, and bearing
+branches of olive went out singing to meet him. All turned out of
+their houses to run to the market-place where Francis, standing on
+steps, or upon a low wall, for he was short of stature, would speak
+to them as one friend does to another; sometimes charming them by his
+eloquence, often moving the whole multitude to bitter tears by his
+preaching on the passion of Christ. With his eyes looking up to the
+heavens, and his hands outstretched as though imploring them to
+repent, he seemed to belong to another world and "not to this
+century." They not only repented, but many left the world to follow
+him and spread the gospel of peace and love. The first woman who
+begged him to receive her vows of renunciation was Chiara Sciffi, of a
+noble Assisan house. Several members of the family, besides others
+from near and far, followed her into the cloister until she became the
+abbess of a numerous sisterhood, the foundress of the Poor Clares or
+Second Order of St. Francis.
+
+The first inspired messages of Francis were brought to the Assisans,
+and then he left them for awhile to journey further afield into other
+parts of Italy, where he always met with the same marvellous success.
+In the following account of his visit to Bologna we get a vivid idea
+of his manner of appeal to the people; and of their enthusiasm and
+astonishment that this poor and seemingly illiterate man, the very
+antithesis of the pedantic clergy, should have the power to hold and
+sway an audience by the magic of his words. "I, Thomas, citizen of
+Spalato, and archdeacon of the cathedral church of the same city,
+studying at Bologna in the year 1220, on the day of the assumption of
+the Mother of God, saw St. Francis preach in the square before the
+little palace, where nearly the whole town was assembled. He spoke
+first of angels, of men, and of devils. He explained the spiritual
+natures with such exactness and eloquence that his hearers were
+astonished that such words could come from the mouth of a man so
+simple as he was. Nor did he follow the usual course of preachers.
+His discourse resembled rather one of those harangues that are made by
+popular orators. At the conclusion, he spoke only of the extinction of
+hatred, and the urgency of concluding treaties of peace, and compacts
+of union. His garments were soiled and torn, his person thin, his face
+pale, but God gave his words unheard-of power. He converted even men
+of rank, whose unrestrained fury and cruelty had bathed the country in
+blood; many who were enemies were reconciled. Love and veneration for
+the saint were universal; men and women thronged around him, and happy
+were those who could so much as touch the hem of his habit."[32]
+
+Young knights and students stepped out of the crowd after one of these
+burning discourses, resolved to don the grey habit and renounce the
+world. The ranks of the followers of St. Francis were swelled at every
+town through which he passed; and he left some of his own sweetness
+and gentleness among those who had listened to his preaching, so that
+party feuds lay dormant for awhile, enemies were reconciled, and all
+tried to lead more Christian lives. _Pax et bonum_ was the Franciscan
+war-cry which fell indeed strangely on the air in a mediæval town.
+Whenever Francis heard of tension and ill-will between the nobles and
+the people he hurried with his message of peace to quell the storm.
+
+But at Perugia he failed. Brother Leo tells us that, "Once upon a
+time, when the Blessed Francis was preaching to a great multitude of
+people gathered together in the Piazza of Perugia, some cavaliers of
+the city began to joust and play on their horses in the piazza, thus
+interrupting his sermon; and, although rebuked by those present, they
+would not desist. Then the blessed Francis, in the fervour of his
+soul, turned towards them and said, 'Listen and understand what the
+Lord announces to you by me, his little servant, and refrain from
+jeering at him, and saying, He is an Assisan.' This he said because of
+the ancient hatred which still exists between the Perugians and the
+Assisans...."[33] Rebuking the citizens for their pride, he predicted
+that if they did not shortly repent civil war would break out in the
+city. But the Perugians, who fought ever better than they prayed,
+continued in their evil ways until at length the words of St. Francis
+were verified. A tumult arose between the people of Perugia, and the
+soldiers were thrust out of the city gates into the country, which
+they devastated, destroying trees, vineyards, and corn-fields, so that
+the misery in the land was great.
+
+  [Illustration: VIA DI S. MARIA DELLE ROSE]
+
+In the course of a single day Francis often preached at five different
+towns or villages; sometimes he went up to a feudal castle, attracted
+by the sound of music and laughter. "Let us go up unto this feast,"
+he would say to his companion, "for, with the help of God, we may win
+some good harvest of souls." Knights and ladies left the banqueting
+hall when they heard of his arrival, and Francis standing on a low
+parapet of the courtyard preached so "devoutly and sublimely to them
+that all stood with their eyes and their minds turned on him as though
+an angel of God were speaking." And then the gay company returned to
+their feast and the two friars went on their way singing aloud from
+the joy in their hearts, and passed the night praying in some deserted
+church or rested under the olive trees on the hill-side. At dawn they
+rose and "went according to their rule, begging bread for the love of
+God, St. Francis going by one street and Brother Masseo by another.
+But St. Francis, being contemptible to look upon and small of stature,
+was accounted but a vile beggar by those who knew him not, and only
+received some mouthfuls of food and small scraps of stale bread; but
+to Brother Masseo, because he was tall and finely made, were given
+tit-bits in large pieces and in plenty and whole slices of bread. When
+they had done begging they met together outside the town to eat in a
+place where was a fair spring, and near by a fine broad stone whereon
+each placed the alms they had gathered, and St. Francis seeing the
+pieces of bread given to Brother Masseo to be more numerous, better,
+and far larger than his own rejoiced greatly...."[34]
+
+Masseo on one occasion wishing to try the humility of Francis mocked
+him saying, "Why doth all the world come after thee, and why is it
+that all men long to see thee, and hear thee, and obey thee? Thou art
+not a comely man, thou art not possessed of much wisdom, thou art not
+of noble birth; whence comes it then that the whole world doth run
+after thee?"
+
+It is easy to see the naive wonder of the practical Masseo in these
+words, a wonder doubtless shared by others who looked on from the same
+standpoint, at the extraordinary influence Francis obtained through
+his preaching. Their astonishment must have reached its height when
+Francis came to a little town near Bevagna (perhaps Cannara) where he
+preached with such fervour that the whole population wished to take
+the franciscan habit. Husbands, wives, nobles, labourers, young and
+old, rich and poor, rose up with one accord, ready to leave their
+homes and follow him to the end of the earth. Such an awakening by the
+simple words of a road-side preacher had never before been seen, and
+was the precursor of other popular demonstrations a few years
+later.[35] Francis, with extraordinary diplomacy, held the
+enthusiastic crowd in check without extinguishing their piety. He
+calmly viewed the situation and solved the difficulty where another,
+with less knowledge of human nature, might have been carried away by
+the opening of the flood-gates. It is not without amusement that one
+thinks of Francis coming to convert sinners, and then finding he had
+called into being an order of Religious who absolutely refused to
+separate from him. He calmed the weeping crowd, and with caution said
+to them: "'Be not in a hurry, neither leave your homes, and I will
+order that which ye are to do for the salvation of your souls:' and he
+then decided to create the Third Order for the universal salvation of
+all, and thus, leaving them much consoled and well disposed to
+penitence, he departed...."
+
+At a time when war, party feuds, and the unlawful seizure of property
+brought misery into the land, the Tertiaries, united by solemn vows to
+keep the commandments of God, to be reconciled to their enemies, and
+to restore what was not rightfully theirs, became a power which had to
+be reckoned with. The rule forbidding them to fight, save in defence
+of the Church or of their country, dealt a severe blow at the feudal
+system, and therefore met with much opposition among the great barons.
+Persecution only increased their power, for so early as 1227 Gregory
+IX, protected the Brothers of Penitence by a special Bull. The enemies
+of the Church soon discovered that they had a powerful antagonist in
+an Order which comprised the faithful of every age, rank, and
+profession, and whose religious practices, whilst creating a great
+bond of union among them, were not severe enough to take them away
+from social life in the very heart of the great cities. They formed a
+second vanguard to the papacy, and Frederick II, was heard to complain
+that this Third Order impeded the execution of his plans against the
+Holy See; while his chancellor Pier delle Vigne in one of his letters
+exclaims that the whole of Christendom seems to have entered its
+ranks.[36]
+
+Thus both from within and from without the world was being moulded as
+Francis willed; all Italy responded to his call, and everywhere rose
+songs of praise to God from a people no longer oppressed by the
+squalor of their evil living. His energy and desire to gain souls drew
+him still further afield into the wilds of Slavonia, into Spain,
+Syria, Morocco, and later into Egypt, for the purpose of converting
+the Soldan. So great was his eagerness to arrive at his destination
+and begin to preach that, often leaving his companions far behind, he
+literally ran along the roads. He was "inebriated by the excessive
+fervour of his spirit," and on fire with divine love, and yet he
+failed on these missions in foreign lands. The reason probably lay in
+his total ignorance of any language except Italian and Provençal, so
+that his words must have lost all their eloquence and power when
+delivered through the medium of an interpreter, and we know that
+Francis never made use of miracles to enforce his teaching.[37]
+
+He returned to Assisi bitterly disappointed, and so despondent that
+for a while he was tempted to give up all idea of preaching. In this
+uncertainty he turned for council to Brother Sylvester and to St.
+Clare, who both urged him to continue his mission to the people; God,
+they said, had not elected him to work out his salvation in the
+solitude of a cell but for the salvation of all. He left the hermitage
+(perhaps the Carcere) and filled with new courage by their words,
+started on a fresh pilgrimage by "cities and castles," but this time
+among the Umbrians who knew and loved him. As he came near Bevagna in
+the plain a new crowd of listeners awaited him--troops of fluttering
+birds--bullfinches, rooks, doves, "a great company of creatures
+without number." Leaving his companions in a state of wonder on the
+road, he ran into the field saying, "I would preach to my little
+brothers the birds," and as he drew near, those that were on the
+ground did not attempt to fly away, while those perched on the trees
+flew down to listen to his sermon.
+
+"My little brethren birds," he said, after saluting them as was his
+custom, "ye ought greatly to praise and love the Lord who created
+you, for He provideth all that is necessary, giving unto you feathers
+for raiment and wings to fly with. The Most High God has placed you
+among His creatures, and given you the pure air for your abode; ye do
+not sow neither do ye reap, but He keeps and feeds you."[38]
+Stretching out their necks, opening their beaks, and spreading their
+wings, the birds listened while they fixed their eyes upon the saint
+and never moved even when he walked in their midst touching them with
+his habit, until he made the sign of the Cross and allowed them to
+depart. He often related this episode which had made such a happy day
+in his life and had been of good augury at a time when he was sad.
+
+The love of Francis for his "little brethren the birds," and indeed
+for all creatures however small, was one of the most beautiful traits
+in a character which stands out in such strong relief in the history
+of the middle ages. It was not only a poetical sentiment but the very
+essence of his being; a power felt by every living thing, from the
+brigand who left his haunts in the forests to follow him, to the
+half-frozen bees which crawled in winter to be fed with wine and honey
+from his hands. An understanding so complete with Nature was unknown
+until Francis stretched out his arms in yearning towards her shrines
+and drew the people, plunged in the gloom of Catharist doctrines,
+towards what was a religion in itself--the worship of the beautiful.
+
+"Le treizième siècle était prêt pour comprendre la voix du poète de
+l'Ombrie; le sermon aux oiseaux clôt le règne de l'art byzantin et de
+la pensée dont il était l'image. C'est la fin du dogmatisme et de
+l'autorité; c'est l'avenement de l'individualisme et de
+l'inspiration,"[39] says M. Paul Sabatier. No one mocked at the
+sermon to the birds; no one wondered that leverets, loosed from the
+snare of the huntsman, should run to Francis for protection, or
+pheasants forsake the woods to seek a shelter in his cell; for so
+great an awakening had taken place in Italy that all understood the
+deep vein of poetry in their saint.
+
+His biographers have transmitted these various anecdotes with a
+tenderness and simplicity which cannot fail to impress us with the
+belief that Francis, like many in our own time, possessed a marked
+attraction for all animals, a magnetism felt with equal strength by
+man and beast. Love was the Orphean lute he played upon, sending such
+sweet melody into the world that its strains have not yet died away.
+
+Besides the feeling he had for the beautiful, the small, or the weak,
+there was another influence at work that made him walk with reverence
+over the stones, gather up the worms from the path to save them from
+being crushed, and buy the lambs that were being carried to market
+with their poor feet tied together. He saw in all things a symbol of
+some great truth which carried his thoughts straight to God. One day
+near Ancona he noticed a lamb following slowly and disconsolately a
+large herd of goats which made him think of Christ among the
+Pharisees. In pity he bought it from the goat-herd, and in triumph
+carried it to a neighbouring town where he preached a parable to an
+admiring crowd, even edifying the bishop by his piety.
+
+Speaking of his favourite birds he would say, "Sister lark hath a hood
+like the Religious ... and her raiment--to wit her feathers--resemble
+the earth.... And when she soars she praises God most sweetly." Such
+was his desire to protect them that he once said if he could only have
+speech with the Emperor he would entreat him to pass a special edict
+for the preservation of his sisters the larks, and command the "Mayors
+of the cities and the Lord of the castles to throw grain on the roads
+by the walled towns" on the feast of the Nativity, so that all the
+birds should rejoice with man on that day. He found great joy in the
+open fields, the vineyards, the rocky ravines, and the forests which
+gave shelter to his feathered brethren; running water and the
+greenness of the orchards, earth, fire, air, and the winds so invited
+him to divine love that often he passed the whole day praising the
+marvels of creation. No wonder he turned his steps more willingly up
+the mountain paths to the hermitage of the Carceri than towards the
+crowded cities. Nature was his companion, his breviary the mirror
+wherein he saw reflected the face of the Creator. In the song of the
+nightingales, in the sound of their wings, in the petals of a tiny
+flower, in the ever changing glory of his own Umbrian valley he was
+always reminded of God, and for this he has been rightly called a
+"Pan-Christian."
+
+There is not a corner in Umbria, one might almost say in Italy, which
+does not bear some record of the passage of the saint. The sick were
+brought to him and cured, those in trouble laid their sorrows before
+him and went away comforted. When anything went wrong, a hasty message
+was sent to Francis, and all with child-like simplicity trusted in him
+to set things right. We even hear that the people of Gubbio, being
+persecuted by a fierce wolf, had recourse to him, for they failed to
+protect themselves though the men sallied forth "as if going to
+battle." The saint had little difficulty in persuading Brother Wolf to
+lead a respectable life; and he, seeing the advantage of a peaceful
+existence, bowed his head and placed his paw, as a solemn seal to the
+compact, in the hand of Francis amid the joyful cries of the people
+who marvelled greatly at the "novelty of the miracle." After this he
+could be seen walking gently through the streets of Gubbio to receive
+his daily ration at every door, cared for by the citizens "and not a
+dog would wag even his tongue against him." When Brother Wolf died
+there was bitter mourning in the city, for all felt as if a friend had
+passed away, and there was none left to remind them of the kindly
+saint who had helped them in their need. "Am I expected to believe
+these fairy tales?" some may ask with a sneer. The exact events
+related--no--but the spirit of these legends is more necessary to a
+true conception of the saint and the times in which he lived than all
+the histories that can ever be written about him. The Umbrians
+pictured him as they saw and understood him, and tradition going from
+mouth to mouth found finally its perfect expression in the "Little
+Flowers of St. Francis." Wonders and miracles are in every page, it is
+true, but then the peasants will tell you all things are possible in
+Umbria; the taming of wild beasts, the silencing of garrulous swallows
+who chattered so loudly while he preached, do not seem stranger to
+them than the conversion of brigands and murderers, for did not the
+very angels obey his wishes and play and sing to him one night when he
+lay ill in a lonely hermitage, longing for the sound of sweet strains
+to break the awful stillness round him?
+
+Francis would have been sorely troubled had he foreseen the numberless
+miracles his biographers were going to attribute to him, for no saint
+was ever humbler. Even in his lifetime, oppressed by the homage paid
+him, he would say to his adorers with a touch of quaint humour: "do
+not be in such haste to proclaim me a saint, for I may still be the
+father of children." He was always fearful lest people should
+overrate his good actions, and his horror of hypocrisy drove him to
+confess aloud to the people gathered round to listen to a sermon, in
+what manner he had given way to the desires of "Brother Body." Upon
+one occasion having used lard in lieu of the less wholesome oil when
+he was ill, he began his sermon by saying: "Ye come to me with great
+devoutness believing me to be a saint, but I do confess unto God and
+unto you that this Lent I have eaten cakes made with lard." Another
+time, after a severe chill, his companions sewed some fox-skin inside
+his habit to keep him somewhat warmer during the bitter cold, but he
+was not happy until a piece had been sewn also on the outside so that
+all might see the luxury he allowed himself.
+
+It may at first seem strange that one so simple should have exercised
+such extraordinary influence on men and women of all ranks, an
+influence which has lasted with undiminished force for seven hundred
+years. But we must remember that a people, however ready to listen to
+the words of a reformer (especially an Italian crowd), will hardly be
+moved by calmness or sense; only when one like Francis stirs their
+imagination by a peculiar way of announcing God's word, and by acts
+sometimes bordering on insanity, can he completely succeed in winning
+them. The Assisans, at first shocked by some of the spectacles they
+witnessed in their sleepy town, jeered and murmured, until at last the
+saint literally took them by storm; and the more he risked their good
+opinion the louder they applauded him and wept for their sins.
+Astonishment was at its height when on the way to some service at the
+cathedral, the citizens saw Francis approaching them "naked save for
+his breeches," while Brother Leo carried his habit. He has gone mad
+through too much penance, some thought. The truth was that Francis had
+imposed this same penance on Brother Ruffino who was then preaching to
+the people in the cathedral, and his conscience smote him so that he
+began to chide himself, saying: "Why art thou so presumptuous, son of
+Bernardone, vile little man, as to command Fra Ruffino, who is one of
+the noblest of the Assisans, to go and preach to the people as though
+he were mad."... So when Ruffino's sermon was ended Francis went up
+into the pulpit and preached with such eloquence on his Lady Poverty
+and on the nakedness and shame of the Passion suffered by Our Lord
+Jesus Christ "that the whole church was filled with the sound of
+weeping and wailing such as had never before been heard in Assisi."
+Thus did the force of originality win the people, and all those who
+had jeered but a few minutes before were much "edified and comforted
+by this act of St. Francis and Brother Ruffino; and St. Francis having
+reclad Brother Ruffino and himself, returned to the Portiuncula
+praising and glorifying God, who had given them grace to abase
+themselves to the edification of Christ's little sheep."
+
+By word and example Francis taught his disciples to be especially
+humble towards the clergy. "If ye be sons of peace," he often said,
+"ye shall win both clergy and people, and this is more acceptable to
+God than to win the people only and to scandalise the clergy. Cover
+their backslidings and supply their many defects, and when ye have
+done this be ye the more humble." He had to struggle against much
+opposition among the bishops, who looked upon him and his friars as
+intruders encroaching upon their rights. People had often advised him
+to obtain a Bull from Rome, to enable him to preach without asking
+permission, but it was through the power of persistent meekness that
+he wished to win his way to every heart, and the only weapons he used
+were those of love. St. Bonaventura tells us that the Bishop of Imola
+absolutely refused to let Francis call the citizens together and
+preach to them. "It suffices, friar, that I preach to the people
+myself," was the cross reply, and Francis, drawing his cowl over his
+head, humbly went his way. But after the short space of an hour he
+retraced his steps, and the bishop inquired with some anger why he had
+returned. He made answer in all humility of heart and speech: "My
+lord, if a father sends his son out at one door there is nothing left
+for him but to return by another." Then the bishop, vanquished by his
+humility, embraced him with a joyful countenance, saying: "Thou and
+all thy brethren shall have a general licence to preach throughout my
+diocese, as the reward of thy holy humility."[40]
+
+This was the saint, gentle and sweet among men, who won the friendship
+of Ugolino, Bishop of Ostia (afterwards Pope Gregory IX). The bishop
+often spent quiet hours at the Portiuncula, trying perhaps to find, in
+the companionship of the saint and his poor friars, a peace he in vain
+sought amid the luxury of the Papal Court. Celano,[41] who may have
+been present during one of these meetings, tells us how he delighted
+in throwing off his rich robes and clothing himself in the Franciscan
+habit. In these moments of humility he would reverently bend the knee
+to Francis and kiss his hands. Besides his great admiration and love
+for the personality of the saint, he was not slow to perceive the
+services Francis had rendered in endeavouring to restore something of
+the pristine purity to Christianity, and further, the Order was fast
+becoming of political importance. The work of organising a community,
+no longer a handful of Assisan knights and yeomen following in the
+footsteps of their leader, was by no means an easy task; and Ugolino
+saw his way to bring it more closely into the service of the Church.
+Francis, whether willingly or not we cannot say, begged the Pope to
+name Ugolino Patron and Father of his Order. This was readily
+accorded, for it was felt in the papal circle that Francis was not so
+easy to drive as became a submissive child of the Church. They could
+not complain of actual disobedience, but he liked doing things his own
+way. By some at Rome it was suggested to him that he should adopt the
+Benedictine rule, by others that he might join his Order to that of St
+Dominic, but the saint smiled sweetly, and though so dove-like none
+succeeded in entangling him in their diplomatic nets. Indeed he
+puzzled Ugolino many times, and both Innocent III and Honorius III
+were never quite sure whether they had to do with a simpleton or a
+saint. The Roman prelates, completely out of sympathy with his
+doctrine of poverty, were only too ready to thwart him, and Ugolino
+knowing this advised him "not to go beyond the mountains" but remain
+in Italy to protect the interests of his order. He further persuaded
+him to come to Rome and preach before the Pope and cardinals, thinking
+that the personality of the saint might perchance win their favour.
+Anxious to do honour to his patron, Francis composed a sermon and
+committed it to memory with great care. When the slight, grey figure,
+the dust of the Umbrian roads still clinging to his sandals, stood up
+in the spacious hall of the Lateran before Honorius and the venerable
+cardinals, Ugolino watched with anxious eyes the course of events. In
+mortal fear "he supplicated God with all his being that the simplicity
+of the holy man should not become an object of ridicule," and
+resigning himself to Providence he waited. There was a moment of
+suspense, of awful silence, for Francis had completely forgotten the
+sermon he had so carefully learned by heart. But his humility
+befriended him; stepping forward a few paces with a gesture of regret
+he quietly confessed what had happened, and then, as if indeed
+inspired, he broke forth into one of his most eloquent sermons. "He
+preached with such fervour of spirit," says Celano, "that being unable
+to contain himself for joy whilst proclaiming the Word of God, he
+moved even his feet in the manner of one dancing, not for play, but
+driven thereto by the strength of the divine love that burnt within
+him: therefore he incited none to laughter but drew tears of sorrow
+from all."[42]
+
+When Francis had been preaching for some time a certain weariness
+seems to have possessed him, and he would then, "leaving behind him
+the tumult of the multitude," retire to some secret place to dwell in
+constant prayer and heavenly contemplation. There were many of these
+refuges, but none so isolated from the world as the lofty mountain of
+La Vernia, which had been given to him by Count Orlando Cattani of
+Chiusi, whose ruined castle can still be seen on a spur of the
+Apennines just below. The "Sacred Mount" rises clear above the valley
+of the Casentino to the height of 4000 feet, between the sources of
+the Tiber and the Arno, and looks straight down upon one of the
+perfect views in Tuscany which Dante speaks of:
+
+     "The rills that glitter down the grassy slopes
+     Of Casentino, making fresh and soft
+     The banks whereby they glide to Arno's stream."
+
+Range upon range of splendid hills falling away gradually to the south
+gather in their folds the pale-tinted mists of early summer, and seem
+to guard the valley from other lands, so intense is the feeling of
+remoteness. From the white towns gleaming like pearls on their green
+slopes above the young Arno cradled by poplars, is seen the sharp
+outline of La Vernia against the sky, always black, gloomy, and
+defiant above the cornfields and vineyards. Its summit, covered with
+fir-trees, straight and close together, appears like a great whale
+that has rested there since the days of the flood. Below the forest
+lie huge boulders of rock and yawning chasms, upheaved, says the
+legend, during the earthquake at the time of the Crucifixion. To this
+solitary place came Francis in the year 1224 to celebrate by forty
+days of fasting and prayer the feast of St. Michael the Archangel,
+accompanied by Fra Leo "the little sheep of God," Fra Angelo "the
+gentle knight," Fra Illuminato, and Fra Masseo. On former visits he
+had been content to stay in a cell beneath a "fair beech tree" built
+for him by Count Orlando close to where the brethren lived; but this
+time he chose a spot on the loneliest side of the mountain where no
+sound could be heard. To reach it the brethren had to throw a bridge
+across a "horrible and fearful cleft in a huge rock," and after they
+had fashioned him a rough shelter they left him in utter solitude;
+only once in the day and once at night Fra Leo was permitted to bring
+a little bread and water which he left by the bridge, stealing
+silently away unless called by Francis. Near this lonely retreat a
+falcon had built a nest and used to wake him regularly a little before
+matins with his cry, beating his wings at his cell until the saint
+rose to recite his orations. Francis, charmed with so exact a clock,
+obeyed the summons, and such was the sympathy between the friends
+that the falcon always knew when he was weary or ill, and would then
+"gently, and like a discreet and compassionate person, utter his cry
+later ... and besides this, in the day would sometimes stay quite
+tamely with him." The birds, which had shown joy on his arrival,
+filled the woods with their sweetest song while the angels visited
+him, sometimes playing such beautiful music on the viol that "his soul
+almost melted away." But Francis, honoured as he was by celestial
+spirits, and by man and beast, had still to receive the greatest sign
+of grace ever accorded to a saint, and the story has been gravely
+related by ancient and modern writers for seven centuries.
+
+The moment had certainly arrived for accomplishing the high designs of
+Providence, for Francis through prayer, fasting, and constant
+contemplation on the Passion of Christ, had become like some spiritual
+being untrammelled by the bonds of the flesh. It was on the feast of
+the Exaltation of the Cross while praying on the mountain side, that
+the marvellous vision was vouchsafed to him. The dawn had hardly
+broken when "he beheld a Seraph who had six wings, which shone with
+such splendour that they seemed on fire, and with swift flight he came
+above the face of the Blessed Francis who was gazing upwards to the
+sky, and from the midst of the wings of the Seraph appeared suddenly
+the likeness of a man crucified with hands and feet stretched out in
+the manner of a cross, and they were marked with wounds like those of
+Our Lord Jesus Christ, and two wings of the said Seraph were above the
+head, two were spread as though flying, and two veiled the whole
+body."[43] Flames of fire lit up the mountains and the valley during
+the vision, and some muleteers seeing "the bright light shining
+through the windows of the inn where they slept, saddled and loaded
+their beasts thinking the day had broke." When Francis rose from his
+knees and looked up to the sky where the seraph had been and where now
+the sun was rising over the Casentino and her steepled towns, he bore
+on his body the marks of the Crucified. His hands and feet appeared as
+though pierced through with nails, the heads being on the inside of
+the hands and on the upper part of the feet, while blood flowed from
+the wound in his side. Thus transformed by his surpassing love for
+Christ, Francis returned to his four companions and recounted to them
+his vision, trying all the while out of his deep humility to hide from
+them the signs of the Stigmata. Before returning to Assisi he bade
+them a final farewell, for he knew this was the last time he would
+come with them to La Vernia. The scene is beautifully pictured in a
+letter of Fra Masseo, which, as far as we know, is here translated for
+the first time.
+
+
+JESUS, MARY MY HOPE.
+
+"Brother Masseo, sinner, and unworthy servant of Jesus Christ,
+companion of Brother Francis of Assisi, man most dear unto God, peace
+and greetings to all brethren and sons of the great patriarch Francis,
+standard-bearer of Christ.
+
+"The great patriarch having determined to bid a last farewell to this
+sacred mount on the 30th of September 1224, day of the feast of St
+Jerome, the Count Orlando of Chiusi sent to him an ass in order that
+he might ride thereon, forasmuch as he could not put his feet to the
+ground by reason of their being sore wounded and pierced with nails.
+In the morning early having heard mass, according to his wont, in
+Sta. Maria degli Angeli,[44] he called all the brethren into the
+chapel, and bade them in holy obedience to live together in charity,
+to be diligent in prayer, always to tend the said place carefully, and
+to officiate therein day and night. Moreover he commended the whole of
+the sacred mount to all his brethren present, as well as to those to
+come, exhorting them to have a care that the said place should not be
+profaned, but always reverenced and respected, and he gave his
+benediction to all inhabitants thereof, and to all who bore thereunto
+reverence and respect. On the other hand, he said: 'Let them be
+confounded who are wanting in respect to the said place, and from God
+let them expect a well-merited chastisement.' To me he said: 'Know,
+Brother Masseo, that my intention is that on this mount shall live
+friars having the fear of God before their eyes, and chosen among the
+best of my order, let therefore the superiors strive to send here the
+worthiest friars; ah! ah! ah! Brother Masseo, I will say no more.'
+
+"He then commanded and ordered me, Brother Masseo, and Brother Angelo,
+Brother Silvestro and Brother Illuminato, to have a special care of
+the place where that great miracle of the holy Stigmata occurred.[45]
+Having said that, he exclaimed 'Farewell, farewell, farewell, Brother
+Masseo.' Then turning to Brother Angelo, he said: 'Farewell,
+farewell,' and the same to Brother Silvestro and Brother Illuminato:
+'Remain in peace, most dear sons, farewell, I depart from you in the
+body, but I leave my heart with you; I depart with Brother Lamb of
+God, and am going to Sta. Maria degli Angeli[46] never to return here
+more; I am going, farewell, farewell, farewell to all! Farewell,
+sacred mount. Farewell, mount Alvernia. Farewell, mount of the angels.
+Farewell, beloved Brother Falcon, I thank thee for the charity thou
+didst show me, farewell! Farewell, Sasso Spicco,[47] never more shall
+I come to visit thee, farewell, farewell, farewell, oh rock which
+didst receive me within thine entrails, the devil being cheated by
+thee, never more shall we behold one another![48] Farewell, Sta.
+Maria degli Angeli, mother of the eternal Word. I commend to thee
+these my sons.'
+
+"Whilst our beloved father was speaking these words, our eyes poured
+forth torrents of tears, so that he also wept as he turned to go,
+taking with him our hearts, and we remained orphans because of the
+departure of such a father.
+
+"I, Brother Masseo, have written this with tears. May God bless us."
+
+For two years after his return from La Vernia, Francis, bearing the
+marks of the Seraph, continued to preach and visit the lazar houses,
+although he was so ill and worn by fasts and vigils that his
+companions marvelled how the spirit could still survive in so frail a
+body. Moreover he had become nearly blind, remaining sometimes sixty
+days and more unable to see the light of day or even the light of
+fire. It was to him a martyrdom that while walking in the woods led by
+one of the brethren, the scenes he loved so well should be hidden by
+this awful darkness. He could only dream of the past when he had
+journeyed from one walled town to another through the valley of
+Spoleto; sometimes rejoicing in the brilliant sunshine, often watching
+the storms sweeping so gloriously over the land in summer when the
+rocky beds of torrents were filled with rushing water and clouds cast
+purple shadows across the plain. Now those wanderings were over, and
+the spirit imprisoned within him found more than ever an outlet in
+music, and "the strain of divine murmurs which fell upon his ears,
+broke out in Gallic songs."
+
+He went on his way singing to meet death, and the greater his
+sufferings the sweeter were the melodies he composed. It was during an
+access of his infirmities and blindness that St. Clare induced him to
+take some days of rest in a small wattle hut she had built in the
+olive grove close to her convent of San Damiano. After nights of
+bitter tribulation, of bodily suffering, passed in earnest prayer, he
+arose one morning with his heart full of new praises to the Creator.
+Meditating for a while he exclaimed, "Altissimo, omnipotente bono
+Signore," and then composed a chaunt thereon, and taught it to his
+companions so that they might proclaim and sing it. His soul was so
+comforted and full of joy that he desired to send for Brother
+Pacifico, who in the world had borne the title of King of Verse and
+had been a most renowned troubadour, and to give to him as companions
+some of the brethren to go about the world preaching and singing
+praises to the Lord ... he willed also that when the preaching was
+ended all together should as minstrels of God sing lauds unto Him. And
+at the close of the singing he ordered that the preacher should say to
+the people: "We are the minstrels of the Lord God wherefore we desire
+to be rewarded by you, to wit, that you persevere in true
+repentance."[49]
+
+It was the Canticle of the Sun which Francis composed in his days of
+blindness, leaving it as an undying message to the world, an appeal
+that they should not cease to love the things he had brought to their
+knowledge during those earlier days of his ministry among them. He
+poured the teaching of a life-time into a song of passionate praise to
+the Creator of a world he had loved and found so beautiful; and the
+sustained melody of the long, rolling lines charm our fancy like the
+sound of waves during calm nights breaking upon the beach. The poem,
+though rough and unhewn, still remains one of the marvels of early
+literature, and to Francis belongs the honour of setting his seal on
+the religious poetry of his country. His was the first glow of colour
+proclaiming the dawn--the first notes of song which, coming from
+Assisi, passed along the ranks of Italian poets to be taken up by
+Dante in "full-throated ease." We give the Canticle of the Sun in the
+exquisite version of Matthew Arnold.
+
+"O most high, almighty, good Lord God, to Thee belong praise, glory,
+honour, and all blessing!
+
+"Praised be my Lord God with all His creatures; and specially our
+brother the sun, who brings us the day, and who brings us the light;
+fair is he, and shining with a very great splendour: O Lord, he
+signifies to us Thee!
+
+"Praised be my Lord for our sister the moon, and for the stars, the
+which he has set clear and lovely in heaven.
+
+"Praised be our Lord for our brother the wind, and for air and cloud,
+calms and all weather, by the which thou upholdest in life all
+creatures.
+
+"Praised be my Lord for our sister water, who is very serviceable unto
+us, and humble, and precious, and clean.
+
+"Praised be my Lord for our brother fire, through whom thou givest us
+light in the darkness; and he is bright, and pleasant, and very
+mighty, and strong.
+
+"Praised be my Lord for our mother the earth, the which doth sustain
+us and keep us, and bringeth forth divers fruits and flowers of many
+colours, and grass.
+
+"Praised be my Lord for all those who pardon one another for his
+love's sake, and who endure weakness and tribulation; blessed are they
+who peaceably shall endure, for Thou, O most Highest, shalt give them
+a crown![50]
+
+"Praised be my Lord for our sister, the death of the body, from whom
+no man escapeth. Woe to him who dieth in mortal sin! Blessed are they
+who are found walking by Thy most holy will, for the second death
+shall have no power to do them harm.
+
+"Praise ye and bless ye the Lord, and give thanks unto Him, and serve
+Him with great humility."
+
+  [Illustration: THE ARMS OF THE FRANCISCANS.]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[18] For a true picture of the condition of Italian towns, torn by
+strife, decimated by famine, and suffering from leprosy brought by the
+crusaders, see Brewer's admirable preface in vol. iv. of the
+_Monumenta Franciscana_.
+
+[19] The first tournament took place at Bologna in 1147.
+
+[20] Folgore di San Gimignano, translated by D. G. Rossetti.
+
+[21] These were the first troubadours to visit the Italian courts,
+driven from Provence by the crusades against the Albigenses.
+
+[22] A certain Bernardo Moriconi, leaving his brother to carry on the
+business at Lucca, then famous for its manufacture of silk stuffs,
+came and settled at Assisi where he got the nickname Bernardone--the
+big Bernard. Whether in allusion to his person or to his prosperity,
+we cannot say, but the family name was lost sight of and his son was
+known as Pietro Bernardone.
+
+[23] Celano. _Vita_ I. cap. 1.
+
+[24] Ruskin. _The two paths_: Lecture III.
+
+[25] Celano. _Vita_ I. cap. 2.
+
+[26] "Le vide lamentable de sa vie lui était tout à coup apparu; il
+était effrayé de cette solitude d'une grande âme, dans laquelle il n'y
+a point d'autel." Paul Sabatier. _Vie de S. François d'Assise_, p. 17.
+
+[27] From a 15th century translation of the will of St. Francis. See
+_Monumenta Franciscana_. Chronicles edited by J. S. Brewer vol. iv. p.
+562.
+
+[28] Life of Beato Egidio in the _Little Flowers of St. Francis_.
+
+[29] Life of Beato Egidio in the _Little Flowers of St. Francis_.
+
+[30] One of the most beautiful stories in the _Fioretti_ (chapter
+xxxiv.) recounts how St. Louis, King of France, visited Beato Egidio
+at Perugia. The king and the poor friar kneeling together in the
+courtyard of the convent, embracing each other like familiar friends,
+is a picture such as only Umbrian literature could have left us. There
+was absolute silence between the two, yet we are told St. Louis
+returned to his kingdom and Egidio to his cell with "marvellous
+content and consolation" in their souls.
+
+[31] See _Suprà_, p. 47.
+
+[32] Quoted by Sigonius in his work on the Bishops of Bologna. _Opera
+omnia_, v. iii., translated by Canon Knox Little. _Life of St. Francis
+of Assisi_, p. 179.
+
+[33] _Speculum Perfectionis_, cap. cv., edited by Paul Sabatier.
+
+[34] _Fioretti_, cap. xiii.
+
+[35] To franciscan influence must surely be traced the rise of the
+Flagellants at Perugia in 1265.
+
+[36] See _Histoire de Sainte Elizabeth_, Comte de Montalembert, pp.
+71, 72.
+
+[37] It is related that when in 1216 some Franciscans went on a
+mission to Germany the only word they knew was "Ja," which they used
+upon every occasion. In one town they were asked if they were heretics
+preaching a rival faith to catholicism, and as they continued to say
+"Ja, Ja," the citizens threw them into prison, and after beating them
+cruelly drove them ignominiously from the country. The account they
+gave of their experience to the other friars at Assisi created such a
+panic that they were often heard in their prayers to implore God to
+deliver them from the barbarity of the Teutons.
+
+[38] Celano. _Vita_ I. cap. xxi.
+
+[39] Paul Sabatier. _Vie de S. Francis d'Assise_, p. 205.
+
+[40] _Vita di S. Francesco_, p. 76. Edizione Amoni (1888. Roma).
+
+[41] Celano, a learned nobleman from Celano in the Abruzzi, joined the
+Order in 1215, and gives by far the most charming and vivid account of
+St Francis, for besides knowing him well he had the gift of writing in
+no ordinary degree.
+
+[42] _Vita_ I. cap. xxvii.
+
+[43] _Vita di S. Francesco_, da S. Bonaventura, p. 148, Edizione
+Amoni.
+
+[44] This was a small chapel built for St. Francis by Count Orlando,
+and must not be confounded with the church of the same name near
+Assisi.
+
+[45] The earnest wishes of the saint are to this day carried out by
+faithful friars who, even through the terrible winter months, live at
+La Vernia, suffering privation and cold with cheerfulness. At midnight
+a bell calls them to sing matins in the chapel of the Stigmata
+connected with the convent by an open colonnade, down which the
+procession files, following a crucifix and lanterns. When the service
+has ceased, the monks flit like ghosts behind the altar while the
+lights are extinguished and in the gloom comes the sound of clashing
+chains. For an hour they chastise themselves: then the torches are
+relit, the chanting is resumed, and calmly they pass down the corridor
+towards their cells. Moonlight may stream into the colonnade across
+the dark forms, or gusts of wind drive the snow in heaps before them,
+but the chanting is to be heard, and the monotonous cries of _ora pro
+nobis_ break the awful solitude of night throughout the year upon the
+mountain of La Vernia.
+
+[46] Here reference is made to the Portiuncula, near Assisi.
+
+[47] The Sasso Spicco, which still can be seen at La Vernia, is a
+block of rock rising high above the mountain ridge, and seems to hang
+suspended in the air. It forms a roof over dark and cavernous places
+where St. Francis loved to pray, often spending his nights there with
+stones for his bed.
+
+[48] The _Fioretti_ relates that once while St. Francis was praying on
+the edge of a precipice, not far from the spot where he had received
+the Stigmata, suddenly the devil appeared in terrible form amidst the
+loud roar of a furious tempest. St. Francis, unable to flee or to
+endure the ferocious aspect of the devil, turned his face and whole
+body to the rock to which he clung; and the rock, as though it had
+been soft wax, received the impress of the saint and sheltered him.
+Thus by the aid of God he escaped.
+
+[49] _Speculum Perfectionis_, cap. c., edited by Paul Sabatier.
+
+[50] St. Francis composed this verse later on the occasion of a
+quarrel which arose between the Bishop of Assisi and the Podestà. The
+last couplet was added at the Portiuncula while he was on his
+death-bed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+_The Carceri, Rivo-Torto and Life at the Portiuncula_
+
+     "O beata solitudo,
+     O sola beatudine."
+
+
+These three places near Assisi, so intimately associated with St.
+Francis, were in a way emblematic of the various stages in the rise
+and growth of his young community, and we shall see that the saint
+went from one to the other, not by chance, but with a settled purpose
+in his mind. The Carceri he kept as a something apart from, and
+outside his daily life; it was a hermitage in the strict sense of the
+word, where, far from the sound of any human voice, he could come and
+live a short time in isolated communion with God. As his followers
+increased, and the Order he had founded with but a few brethren
+developed even in its first years into a great army, we can easily
+understand the longing for solitude which at times became too strong
+to be resisted, for his nature was well fitted for the hermit's life,
+and it called him with such persistence to the woods among the flowers
+and the birds he loved, that had he been less tender for the
+sufferings of others, more blind to the ills of the Church, it is
+possible that the whole course of events might have been altered.
+Giotto would not have been called to Assisi, or if he had been, the
+legends told to him by the friars might not have inspired him to paint
+such master-pieces as he has left us in the Franciscan Basilica; and
+we should now be the poorer because St. Francis had chosen seven
+hundred years ago to live in an Etruscan tomb at Orte, or in a grotto
+on Mount Subasio. So much depended, not only upon what St. Francis
+achieved, but on the way in which he chose to work. Who therefore can
+tell how much we owe to the little mountain retreat of the Carceri,
+where, spending such hours of wondrous peace surrounded by all that he
+most cherished in nature, the saint could refresh himself and gain new
+strength for long periods of arduous labour among men.
+
+  [Illustration: HERMITAGE OF THE CARCERI]
+
+The Carceri came into the possession of St. Francis through the
+generosity of the Benedictines who, until his advent, had held
+unlimited sway in Umbria. Many churches, and we may say, almost all
+the hermitages of the surrounding country belonged to them. But their
+principal stronghold, built in the eleventh century, stood on the
+higher slopes of Mount Subasio, while the Carceri, lying a little to
+the west, was used by them probably as a place of retreat when wearied
+of monastic life. Both monastery and hermitage seem to have been
+quiet enough, and we only occasionally hear of the Benedictine monks
+starting off on a visit to some hermit of renowned sanctity, or going
+upon some errand of mercy among the peasants in the valley, whom they
+often surprised by marvellous though somewhat aimless miracles wrought
+for their edification. Then early in the fourteenth century these
+hermit monks of Mount Subasio suddenly found themselves in the midst
+of the fighting of a mediæval populace, for the Assisans, not slow to
+discover the great military importance of the Benedictine Abbey,
+wished to possess it. When the struggle between Guelph and Ghibelline
+was at its height, the monks were driven to take refuge in the town,
+while their home was taken possession of by the exiled party who used
+it as a fortress whence they could sally forth and harass the eastern
+approach to Assisi. Perpetual skirmishes took place beneath its walls
+until the roving adventurer Broglia di Trino, who had made himself
+master of the town in 1399, in a solemn council held at the Rocca
+Maggiore issued an edict that the Monastery of St. Benedict was to be
+razed to the ground, determining thus to deprive the turbulent nobles
+and their party of so sure a refuge in times of civil war.
+
+The solid walls and fine byzantine columns of what once was the most
+celebrated abbey in Umbria now remain much as in the mediæval days of
+their wreckage, and, until a few years ago when some repairs were
+made, the church was open for the mountain birds to nest in, and wild
+animals used it as their lair.
+
+But both church and monastery stood proudly upon the mountain height
+above the plain when St. Francis, then the young mendicant looked upon
+by many as a madman, would knock at the gates, and the abbot followed
+by his monks, came out to listen to the humble requests he so often
+had to make. These prosperous religious most generously patronised St.
+Francis in the time of his obscurity, giving him the chapel of the
+Portiuncula, and later (the date is uncertain but some say in 1215)
+they allowed him to take possession of the still humbler chapel and
+huts of the Carceri. Even to call such shelters huts is giving them
+too grand a name, for they were but caverns excavated in the rock,
+scattered here and there in a deep mountain gorge. They can still be
+seen, unchanged since the days of St. Francis save for the tresses of
+ivy growing thick, like a curtain, across the entrance, for now there
+are none to pass in and out to pray there.
+
+Even the attempt to describe the loneliness and discomfort of this
+hermitage seems to strike terror into the hearts of later franciscan
+writers, who no longer caring to live in caves, only saw Dantesque
+visions when they thought of these arid, sunburnt rocks, rushing
+torrents and wild wastes of mountains which even shepherds never
+reached. But luckily in those days there was one Umbrian who loved
+such isolated spots; and the charm of that silence, born of the very
+soul of Francis and guarded jealously by nature herself during long
+centuries in memory of him, now tempts us up the mountain side upon a
+pilgrimage to the one place where his spirit still lives in all its
+primitive vigour and purity.
+
+The road leading to the Carceri[51] from the Porta Cappucini passes
+first through rich corn fields and olive groves, but as it skirts
+round Mount Subasio towards the ravine it becomes a mere mountain
+track. Only here and there, where peasants have patiently scraped away
+the stones, grows a little struggling corn, while small hill flowers
+nestle between the rocks unshaded even by olive trees; the colour of a
+stray Judas tree, or a lilac bush in bloom, only makes the landscape
+seem more barren and forlorn. Looking upon the road to Spello, winding
+down the hill through luxuriant fields of indian corn and olive
+groves, with the oak trees spreading their still fresher green over
+the vineyards of the plain, we feel that this pathway to the Carceri
+is something novel and unlike anything at Assisi which we have
+hitherto explored. Just as we are marvelling at its loveliness, a
+sudden turn brings Assisi once more in view, and the sight we get of
+it from here carries us straight back to the days of St. Francis; for
+the great basilica and convent are hidden by the brow of the hill, and
+what we now see is exactly what he looked upon so often as he hastened
+from Assisi to his hermitage, or left it when he was ready to take up
+the burden of men's lives once more. The old walls, looking now much
+as they did after a stormy battle with Perugia, stretch round the same
+rose-tinted town, which, strangely enough, time has altered but
+slightly--it is only a little more toned in colour, the Subasian stone
+streaked here and there with deeper shades of yellow and pink, while
+the castle is more ruined, rearing itself less proudly from its green
+hill-top than in earlier days of splendour. But charming as the view
+of the town is, we quickly leave it to watch the changes of light and
+colour in the valley and on the wide-bedded Tescio as it twists and
+turns in countless sharp zig-zags till we lose it where it joins the
+Tiber--there where the mist rises. We might travel far and not find so
+fascinating a river as the Tescio; only a trickle of water it is true,
+but sparkling in the sunshine like a long flash of lightning which
+has fallen to earth and can find no escape from a tangle of fields and
+vineyards.[52] Then our road turns away again from the glowing valley
+shimmering in the haze of a late May afternoon, and mounting ever
+higher we plunge into the very heart of the Assisan mountain,
+uncultivated, wild, colourless and yet how strangely beautiful.
+
+Another half mile brings us round the mountain side to a narrow gorge,
+and the only thing in sight except the ilex trees is an arched doorway
+with a glimpse, caught through the half open gate, of a tiny
+courtyard. A step further on and we find ourselves standing amidst a
+cluster of cells and chapels seeming as if they hung from the bare
+rocks with nothing to prevent them falling straight into the depths of
+the ravine; and the silence around is stranger far than the mountain
+solitude. Surely none live here, we think, when suddenly a
+brown-clothed friar looks round the corner of a door, and without
+waste of time or asking of questions beckons us to follow, telling
+rapidly as he goes the story of each tree, rock, cell and shrine.
+
+Crossing two or three chapels and passing through a trap-door and down
+a ladder, we reach a narrow cave-like cell where St. Francis used to
+sleep during those rare moments when he was not engaged in prayer. As
+at La Vernia this "bed" was scooped out of the rock, and a piece of
+wood served him as a pillow. Adjoining is an oratory where the
+crucifix the saint always carried with him is preserved. The doors are
+so narrow and so low that the smallest person must stoop and edge in
+sideways. From these underground caves it is a joy to emerge once
+more into the sunlight, and one of the delightful surprises of the
+place is to step straight out of the oppressive darkness of the cells
+into the ilex wood, with the banks above and around us glowing with
+sweet-scented cyclamen, yellow orchids, and long-stemmed violets. It
+is not surprising that St. Francis often left his cell to wander
+further into these woods when the birds, as though they had waited for
+his coming, would gather from all sides and intercept him just as he
+reached the bridge close to the hermitage. While they perched upon an
+ilex tree (which is still to be seen), he stood beneath and talked to
+them as only St. Francis knew how. His first sermon to the birds took
+place at Bevagna, but at the Carceri he was continually holding
+conversations with his little feathered brethren. This perhaps was
+also where he held his nocturnal duet with the nightingale, which was
+singing with especial sweetness just outside his cell. St. Francis
+called Brother Leo to come also and sing and see which would tire
+first, but the "little Lamb of God" replied that he had no voice,
+refusing even to try. So the saint went forth alone to the strange
+contest, and he and the bird sang the praises of God all through the
+darkest hours of the night until, quite worn out, the saint was forced
+to acknowledge the victory of Brother Nightingale.
+
+Very different is the story of his encounter with the tempting devil
+whom he precipitated by his prayers into the ravine below; the hole
+through which the unwelcome visitor departed is still shown outside
+the saint's cell. Devils do not play a very prominent part in the
+story of the first franciscans, but this mountain solitude seems to
+have so excited the imaginations of later chroniclers that yet another
+story of a devil belongs to the Carceri, and is quaintly recounted in
+the _Fioretti_. This time he appeared to Brother Rufino in the form
+of Christ to tempt him from his life of holiness. "O Brother Rufino,"
+said the devil, "have I not told thee that thou shouldst not believe
+the son of Pietro Bernardone?... And straightway Brother Rufino made
+answer: 'Open thy mouth that I may cast into it filth.' Whereat the
+devil, being exceeding wroth, forthwith departed with so furious a
+tempest and shaking of the rocks of Mount Subasio, which was hard by,
+that the noise of the falling rocks lasted a great while; and so
+furiously did they strike one against the other in rolling down that
+they flashed sparks of terrific fire in all the valley, and at the
+terrible noise they made St. Francis and his companions came out of
+the house in amazement to see what strange thing was this; and still
+is to be seen that exceeding great ruin of rocks."
+
+Close to the spot rendered famous by the devil's visits a bridge
+crosses the gorge of a great torrent, which, threatening once to
+destroy the hermitage, was miraculously dried up by St. Francis, and
+now only fills its rocky bed when any public calamity is near. From it
+a good view is obtained of the hermitage, but perhaps a still better
+is to be had from under the avenue of trees a little beyond, on the
+opposite side of the deep ravine whence the groups of hovels are seen
+to hang like a honeycomb against the mountain side, so tightly set
+together that one can hardly distinguish where the buildings begin and
+the rock ends.
+
+The ilex trees grow in a semicircle round this cluster of cells and
+caverns, and high above it all rises a peak of Mount Subasio, grey as
+St. Francis' habit, with a line of jagged rocks on the summit which
+looks more like the remains of some Umbrian temple of almost
+prehistoric days than the work of nature.
+
+The sides of this mountain ravine approach so near together that only
+a narrow vista of the plain is obtained, blue in the summer haze, with
+no village or even house in sight. It would be difficult to find a
+place with the feeling of utter solitude so unbroken, and as we
+realised that these friars lived here nearly all their life, many not
+even going to Assisi more than once in five years, we said to one of
+them: "How lonely you must be," and he, as though recalling a time of
+struggle in the world, answered: "Doubtless there are better things in
+the town, but here, at the Carceri, there is peace."
+
+  [Illustration: THE CARCERI WITH A VIEW OF THE BRIDGE]
+
+It is the hermit's answer; but now the need of such lives has long
+since passed away, and even St. Francis, living at the time when the
+strain of perpetual warfare, famine, pestilence and crime, created a
+fierce craving for solitude in the lives of many, realised that a
+hermitage must only be a place to rest in for a while--not to live
+in. His anxiety to keep his Order from becoming a contemplative one is
+shown in the following rule he carefully thought out for his
+disciples. "Those religious who desire to sojourn in a hermitage are
+to be at the most three or four. Two are to be like mothers having a
+son. Two are to follow the life of a Martha, the other the life of a
+Mary." Then they were to go forth again strenuously to their work
+abroad and give place to others in search of rest and peace.
+
+But after the death of St. Francis the Carceri gradually lost its
+primitive use, and the principal person who entirely changed its
+character was St. Bernardine of Siena who in 1320 made many
+alterations and additions, building a larger chapel, adding cells and
+a kitchen, but so small, remarks a discontented franciscan chronicler,
+that it barely held the cooking utensils. Although we can no longer
+call it a hermitage, the Carceri became the type of an ideal
+franciscan convent such as Francis dreamed of for his followers when
+he went to live at the Portiuncula, and such it has remained to this
+day. For certainly the place, as left by St. Bernardine, would have
+been approved of by the first franciscans as a dwelling-place, but
+those of later years can only tell us of its discomforts. Here is a
+graphic description of its primeval simplicity which very nearly
+corresponds to its present state: "It were better called a grotto with
+six lairs; one sees but the naked rock untouched by the chisel, all
+rough and full of holes as left by nature; those who see it for the
+first time are seized with extraordinary fear on climbing the ladder
+leading to the dormitory, at each end of which are other poor
+buildings, added by the religious according as need arose for the use
+of the friars, who do not care to live as hermits did in the olden
+times. The refectory is small, and can contain but few friars; a
+brother guardian made an excavation, of sufficient height and breadth
+in the rock, and added thereto a table around which can sit other six
+religious, so that those who take their places at this new table are
+huddled up in the arched niche which forms a baldaquin above their
+heads. There is also a little common room which horrifies all
+beholders, wherein is lit a fire, for besides being far inside the
+rocky mass it is gloomy beyond description by reason of the dense
+smoke always enclosed therein, this is a lively cause to the religious
+of reflection on the hideousness and obscurity of the darkness of
+hell; in lieu of receiving comfort from the fire the poor friars
+generally come out with tears in their eyes." To somewhat atone for
+these discomforts they possessed a fountain, raised, as we are told,
+by the prayers of St. Francis, which never ran dry, "a miracle God has
+wished to perpetuate for the glory of His faithful servants and the
+continual comfort of the monks."
+
+The crucifixion in the chapel built by St. Bernardine adjoining the
+choir, is said to have been painted by his orders. The artistic merits
+of the fresco are questionable, but connected with it is a legend
+possibly invented by some humorous member of the franciscan
+brotherhood in order to point a moral to his companions. "Here," says
+a chronicler, "is adored that most marvellous crucifixion, so famous
+in religion; it is well known to have spoken several times to the
+devout Sister Diomira Bini of the Third Order of St. Francis and a
+citizen of Assisi; and in our own times, in the last century (the
+seventeenth) it was seen by Brother Silvestro dello Spedalicchio to
+detach itself from the cross, and with most gentle slaps on the face,
+warn a worshipper to be reverent and vigilant while praying in this
+His Sacred Oratory."
+
+In a small wooden cupboard in the chapel, according to an inventory
+made two hundred years ago, are preserved some relics, a few of which
+we have unfortunately not been able to identify. Part of the wooden
+pillow used by St. Francis, and a piece of the Golden Gate through
+which our Lord passed into Jerusalem, are still here, but the hair of
+the Virgin, and, strangest of all, some of the earth out of which God
+created Adam, are no longer to be found!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Ten or twelve friars continued to live at the Carceri for a few years
+after the death of St. Bernardine; some begged their daily bread from
+the villagers in the valley, others dug in the tiny garden at the foot
+of the ravine where a few vegetables grew, and two always remained at
+the convent to spin the wool for the habits of the religious. But soon
+wearying of the life they went to live at other convents, and the
+place passed away from the franciscans into the possession of various
+sects, among others to the excommunicated Fraticelli. In 1415 it was
+given back to the Observants, and Paolo Trinci, who had done much to
+reform the Order, persuaded some friars to live once more at the
+deserted hermitage. Again the Carceri became such an ideal franciscan
+convent that many came from afar to visit it, and there is a strange
+story of how a "woman monk" found a home and died here in the middle
+of the fifteenth century.
+
+"Beata Anonima," a chronicler recounts, "being already a Cistercian
+nun in the convent of S. Cerbone of Lucca at the time of the siege of
+that city by the Florentines, when the said nuns, for valid reasons,
+were transferred to the convent of Sta. Christina inside the city. Now
+this most fervent servant of God took this opportune time and fled by
+stealth, disguised as a man, and went, or rather flew, to Assisi;
+there, fired with an ardent desire to fight under the seraphic
+standard, she breathlessly climbed the steep slopes of Mount Subasio,
+and having found the horrible cavern of Santa Maria delle Carceri
+fervently entreated those good Fathers to admit her amongst them and
+to bestow on her their sacred habit, for which her longing was
+extreme. At length, having overcome all resistance, believing her to
+be a man as appeared from her dress, and not a woman which in reality
+she was, they admitted her to the convent and gave her the habit of
+religion." She edified all by the holiness of her life and the rigid
+penances she performed, but her health soon suffered and only upon her
+death-bed, surrounded by the friars chanting the psalms for the dying,
+the Blessed Anonima confessed to the fraud she had practised in order
+to dwell in the hermitage rendered so dear because of the memory of
+the Poverello d'Assisi.
+
+
+RIVO-TORTO[53]
+
+A straight and stony road, the old Roman one, now overgrown in many
+parts with grass and trails of ivy and bordered by mulberry and oak
+trees, leads out of the Porta Mojano to two little chapels in the
+plain. Set back from the main road in the midst of the fields few
+people find them, and the peasants know nothing of their story and can
+only tell of a miraculous well in which a youthful saint met his
+death. When his body was brought to the surface a lily had grown from
+his mouth and upon its petals was written in letters of gold the one
+word, _Veritas_, for he had died in the cause of truth. Since then, as
+the peasants recount with pride, many come from afar to drink of the
+waters of this well for it cures every ill. It is over-grown with
+ferns and close by stands an ancient sarcophagus where the children
+sit to eat their midday meal. A piece of old worn sculpture still
+ornaments the chapel of the young martyr, and the feeling of the place
+is very charming, but the pilgrim who comes to Assisi to visit St.
+Francis, has a different picture to recall with another kind of beauty
+belonging to it than that of holy wells and flowering banks and
+meadows.
+
+It is difficult, when looking on San Rufino d'Arce, with its cluster
+of vine-shaded peasant houses, and then on Santa Maria Maddalena,
+narrow windowed, the small apse marking it as a primitive Umbrian
+chapel of the fields, to realise that in the Middle Ages this was a
+leper village separated from Assisi by a little more than a mile of
+open country. And yet here, without doubt, we have Rivo-Torto where,
+even before his famous interview with Innocent III, St. Francis had
+stayed with those three first Assisan companions, Bernard di
+Quintavalle, Peter Cataneo and Egidio. Then in the autumn of 1210,
+when he returned from Rome after the rule of poverty had been
+sanctioned by the Church, but before he was ready to begin his mission
+as preacher, he came to live among the lepers, forming with his
+disciples a little family which we may call the beginning of a first
+franciscan settlement.
+
+The leper village was divided according to the social rank of the
+outcasts, the richer living together near the chapel of Sta. Maria
+Maddalena and forming quite a community with the right of freely
+administering their own goods. As M. Sabatier observes, it was
+therefore not "only a hospital, but almost a little town near the city
+with the same social distinctions of classes."
+
+Those tended by St. Francis were the poorest of the lepers, whose
+wretched hovels lay near the chapel of San Rufino d'Arce; and Celano
+must be referring to this settlement when he tells us how Francis in
+his early days, even if he chanced to look down from Assisi upon the
+houses of the lepers in the plain, would hold his nostrils with his
+hand, because his horror of them was so great.
+
+But as the grace of God touched his heart, making him take pity upon
+all things weak and suffering, he turned the force of his strong
+nature to overcoming this repugnance, and there is a beautiful story
+telling of the first victory gained shortly after his conversion.
+While riding one day near Assisi he met a leper, and filled with
+disgust and even fear at the sight, his first impulse was to turn his
+horse round, but, remembering his new resolutions to follow the
+teaching of Christ, he went forward to meet the poor man, and even
+kissed the hand extended to him for alms. "Then," says St.
+Bonaventure, "having mounted his horse, he looked around him over the
+wide and open plain, but the leper was nowhere to be seen. And Francis
+being filled with wonder and gladness, devoutly gave thanks to God,
+purposing within himself to proceed to still greater things than
+this." Certainly the event heralded a life of holiness, and was the
+means of rousing his latent energies and the feelings for
+self-sacrifice which drove him from the wild and solitary places he
+loved into the very midst of the world, there to work strenuously, in
+every part of Italy, at first among lepers and then among the wealthy,
+the ignorant and the sorrowful.
+
+For the life at Rivo-Torto led by "these valiant despisers of the
+great and good things of this world" we cannot do better than turn to
+the Three Companions (Brothers Masseo, Ruffino and Leo) who knew by
+personal experience the hardships and roughness of the place.
+Feelingly they describe: "a hovel, or rather a cavern abandoned by
+man; the which place was so confined that they could hardly sit down
+to repose themselves. Many a time they had no bread, and ate nought
+but turnips which they begged for here and there in travail and in
+anguish. On the beams of the poor hut the man of God wrote the names
+of the brethren, so that whoso would repose or pray might know his
+place and not disturb, by reason of the cramped and limited space in
+the small hovel, the quietude of the night." Even the appearance of
+Otto IV, close to their hut seems in no way to have disturbed the
+peaceful course of their lives, but only gave St. Francis the
+opportunity of bestowing a timely warning upon the Emperor. Celano,
+ever delighting in the picturesque details of ceremonies and pageants,
+tells us how "there came at that time with much noise and pomp the
+great Emperor on his way to take the terrestrial crown of the Empire;
+now the most holy father with his companions being in the said house
+near the road where the cavalcade was passing, would neither go out to
+see it, nor permit his brethren to go, save one, whom he commanded
+fearlessly to announce to Otto that his glory would be short-lived."
+
+Thus, if the tale be true, a German Emperor was the first to listen to
+Francis' message to a mediæval world sunk in the love of earthly
+things, and who knows whether the saint's words did not come back to
+Otto again in after years.
+
+The Penitents of Assisi only remained until the spring at Rivo-Torto,
+for even during those few months' sojourn among the lepers their
+numbers had so increased that it became necessary to think of some
+surer abode. One day St. Francis called the brethren to tell them how
+he had thought of obtaining from one of his various kind friends in
+Assisi, a small chapel where they could peacefully say their Hours,
+having some poor little houses for shelter close by built of wattle
+and mud.
+
+His speech was pleasing to the brethren, and so, following the master
+they loved and trusted, all went to dwell at the Portiuncula, where,
+as we shall see, a new life was to begin for them.
+
+
+THE PORTIUNCULA
+
+       "Holy of Holies is this Place of Places,
+       Meetly held worthy of surpassing honour!
+       Happy thereof the surname, 'Of the Angels,'
+       Happier yet the name, 'The Blessed Mary.'
+
+       Now, a true omen, the third name conferreth
+       'The Little Portion' on the Little Brethren,
+       Here, where by night a presence oft of Angels
+       Singing sweet hymns illumineth the watches."
+     (_The Mirror of Perfection_, translated by Sebastian Evans.)
+
+Those who want to realise the charm of the Portiuncula and of the
+memories that cling about it, must try to forget the great church
+which shuts out from it the sunlight, and with the early chroniclers
+as their guides, call up the image of St. Francis with his first
+disciples who in an age of unrest came here to seek for peace.
+
+Make your pilgrimage in the springtime or in the early summer, when
+pink hawthorn and dogroses are flowering in every hedge and the vines
+fill the valley with a delicate green light. Looking at cities and
+villages so purely Umbrian, some spread among cornfields close to a
+swift clear river, others set upon heights which nearly touch the sky
+on stormy days, we forget that beyond these hills and mountains
+encircling the big valley of Umbria stretch other lands as fair. We
+forget, because it is a little world which during long centuries has
+been set apart from all else, and where man has but completed the work
+of nature herself. During the long hours of a summer's day, when the
+sense of remoteness in the still plain is most intense, it brings to
+us, as nothing else can ever do, some feeling of that early time when
+four hermits came from Palestine and found a quiet retreat in the oak
+forests of Assisi.
+
+It was in the year 352, as St. Cyril, Patriarch of Jerusalem, relates,
+when a cross had been seen stretched from Calvary to the Mount of
+Olives and to shine more brightly than the sun, that four holy men,
+impelled by a feeling that some great crisis was at hand, determined
+to visit the shrines of Rome. Having performed their devotions and
+offered many precious relics to Pope Liberius, they expressed a great
+desire to find some hermitage where, each in a silent cell, they could
+meditate upon the marvellous things they had seen in the Eternal City.
+The Pope gave them most excellent advice when he told them to go to
+the Spoletan valley. With his sanction to choose any part of it they
+liked, they passed over the mountains dividing Umbria from the
+Campagna, and by many towns until, when about a mile from Assisi, they
+determined to build their dwellings in the plain, thinking, as indeed
+they might, to find no other spot so suited for a quiet retreat. Close
+to four huts of rough hewn stone and brushwood they erected a tiny
+chapel with a pent roof and narrow window which, perhaps in memory of
+their native valley, they dedicated to St. Mary of Jehosaphat. But
+after a few years, forsaking the life of hermits, they again took up
+their staves and returned home to Palestine by way of the Romagna,
+leaving beneath the altar of the chapel they had built a relic of the
+Virgin's sepulchre.
+
+  [Illustration: SIDE DOOR OF THE PORTIUNCULA BUILT BY ST. BENEDICT]
+
+At different times other devout hermits, charmed by the lonely chapel,
+took possession of it for a time, but it was often deserted for many
+years. Its preservation is due to St. Benedict who, passing through
+Umbria during the early part of the sixth century, was inspired to
+restore the ruined chapel and dwell near it for awhile. He not only
+repaired the walls, but built the two large round arched doors we see
+to this day, and which many declare to be quite out of proportion to
+the rest of the building, but their unusual size is accounted for by
+a charming legend. Once when St. Benedict was praying in the chapel he
+saw a marvellous vision as he knelt wrapt in ecstasy. A crowd of
+people were praying around him to St. Francis, singing hymns of praise
+and calling for mercy on their souls, while outside still greater
+multitudes waited for their turn to come and pray before the shrine.
+St. Benedict, understanding from this that a great saint would one day
+be honoured here, made the two doors in the chapel, and made them
+large enough for many to pass in and out at a time. Thus was the feast
+of the "Pardon of St. Francis" prepared for some seven hundred years
+too soon.
+
+St. Benedict obtained from the Assisans the gift of a small plot of
+ground near the sanctuary, which suggested to him the name of St. Mary
+of the Little Portion--Sta. Maria della Portiuncula. When a few years
+later St. Benedict founded his famous order at Monte Cassino, he did
+not forget the Umbrian chapel he had saved from ruin, and sent some of
+his monks to live there and to minister among the people. Like the
+first hermits they lived in poor huts, saying their Hours in the
+little chapel, until in the eleventh century they built a large
+monastery and church upon the higher slopes of Mount Subasio to the
+east of Assisi, and the Portiuncula was again deserted. But although
+no one lived near, and mass was never celebrated there, it still
+remained in the keeping of the benedictines who occasionally must have
+seen to its repair, and thus preserved it for the coming of St.
+Francis.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It has been suggested to me that the spot selected by the four holy
+pilgrims in the fourth century may have been even then the site of a
+sacred shrine, for the custom of erecting tabernacles over the graves
+of distinguished persons reaches back to very early times. Originally
+designed as a mortuary cell such a structure might, being duly
+oriented, come to be used as a chapel for service.
+
+The subject of "Sepulchral Cellæ" will be found treated of by the late
+Sir Samuel Fergusson[54] in a memoir in which he figures some of the
+burial vaults and early oratories of Ireland, some of which are in
+shape identical with Sta. Maria della Portiuncula, with the same pent
+roof, round arched door, and perfectly plain walls. A building thus
+erected over a grave was called _Porticulus_, and any who pillaged "a
+house made in form of a basilica over a dead person" had to pay a
+fine.
+
+From an archæological point of view there is much to be desired in the
+published descriptions of the Portiuncula. A great part of its
+exterior walls is now covered with frescoes which hide all detail, but
+perhaps a minute examination of the interior walls might reveal
+portions of the foundations built upon by St. Benedict, and we
+sincerely hope that these few words may attract attention to so
+interesting a subject.
+
+But even if the shrine said to have been built by the hermits from
+Palestine for Our Lady's Girdle turns out to have been an ancient
+tomb, the later legends are by no means destroyed. It is not unlikely
+that St. Benedict, attracted as much by lonely places as St. Francis,
+took possession of the Umbrian tomb, and perhaps little thinking what
+it was, rebuilt and used it as a chapel. Whatever may be the true
+story, it is very certain that the Portiuncula, from earliest times,
+has possessed a strange attraction for all who passed by, each one
+thinking a tiny chapel situated so charmingly in the woods, within
+sight, though not within sound, of the Umbrian towns, to be a perfect
+spot for prayer.
+
+The country people treasure the legend that Madonna Pica often came to
+pray at the Portiuncula, and through the intercession of the Blessed
+Virgin obtained a son after seven years of waiting, and this son of
+prayer and patience was St. Francis of Assisi.
+
+Half ruined and neglected as the chapel was, Francis learned, even as
+quite a child, to love it, and kneeling therein by his mother's side
+would pray with all the fervour of his childish faith. Later in life
+when he had turned from the mad follies of his youth to follow in the
+footsteps of Christ, he remembered the shrine he had loved in
+childhood, and would pass many nights there in prayer and bitter
+meditation upon the Passion. At last touched by the sight of its
+crumbling walls, he set himself the task of repairing them, working so
+busily with stones and mortar that the chapel soon regained its former
+simple beauty. The Benedictines of Mount Subasio, touched by his
+ungrudging labour and piety, arranged with an Assisan priest to
+celebrate mass at the Portiuncula from time to time, and this fact
+drew the young saint there still oftener.
+
+Then followed his time of ministry among the lepers of San Rufino
+d'Arce, when day by day so many disciples came to enlist in this new
+army of working beggars that the little hut in the leper-village could
+no longer hold them, and Francis had to think of some means of housing
+the brethren, and obtaining, what he had often desired, a chapel
+wherein they could say the Hours. (The saint, we may be sure, always
+said his office in the woods.) But evidently he had no particular
+place in his mind, not even his beloved Portiuncula, for he went first
+to his friend Guido, Bishop of Assisi, and then to the canons of San
+Rufino to ask if they could help him. They only answered that they had
+no church to dispose of, and could offer no advice upon the subject.
+Then sorrowfully, like a man begging from door to door, St. Francis
+climbed Mount Subasio to lay his request in piteous terms before the
+benedictine abbot, where he met with more success. Brother Leo tells
+us that the abbot was "moved to pity, and after taking counsel with
+his monks, being inspired by divine grace and will, granted unto the
+Blessed Francis and his brethren the church of St. Mary of the Little
+Portion, as being the smallest and poorest church they possessed. And
+the abbot said to the Blessed Francis, 'Behold Brother, we grant what
+thou desirest. But should the Lord multiply thy brotherhood we will
+that this place shall be the mother-house of thy Order.'"[55]
+
+With a willing heart Francis promised what the abbot asked, and
+further insisted upon paying rent for the Portiuncula, because he
+wished his followers always to bear in mind the point of his rule,
+which he so often dwelt upon, namely, that they owned no property
+whatever, but were only in this world as pilgrims. So every year two
+of his brethren brought to the gate of the benedictine monastery a
+basket full of roach caught in the Chiaggio which flows at no great
+distance from the Portiuncula, and the abbot, smiling at the
+simplicity of Francis, who had imagined yet another device for
+humility, gave back a vessel full of oil in exchange for the gift of
+fish.[56]
+
+With great rejoicing St. Francis set to work building cells of a most
+simple pattern, with walls of wattle and dab, and thatched with straw,
+each brother inscribing his name upon a portion of the mud floor set
+apart for him to rest in. "And no sooner had they come to live here,"
+writes Brother Leo, "than the Lord multiplied their number day by day,
+and the sweet scent of their good name spread marvellously abroad
+throughout all the Spoletan valley, and in many parts of the world."
+
+It was thus that St. Mary of the Little Portion, henceforth to be the
+nucleus of the franciscan order, and a place familiar to pilgrims from
+far and near for many succeeding centuries, came into the keeping of
+St. Francis in the year 1211, about nine months after Innocent III had
+sanctioned his work among the people of Italy.
+
+St. Francis and the brethren had been but a year in their new abode
+when a figure passed in among them for a moment and then was gone,
+leaving, as a vision to haunt them to their dying day, the memory of
+her beauty and soul's purity.
+
+Never in the history of any saint has there been so touching and
+wondrous a scene as when the young Clare left her father's palace in
+Assisi to take the vows of perpetual and voluntary poverty at the
+altar of the Portiuncula. Followed by two trembling women, she passed
+swiftly through the town in the dead of night, across the fields by
+the slumbering village of Valecchio, and through dark woods made more
+sombre by the starry Umbrian sky which at intervals gleamed between
+the wide-spreading branches of the oak trees. The hurrying figure of
+the young girl, swathed in a long mantle, seemed like some spirit
+driven by winds towards an unknown future. One thing alone was clear
+to her, she was nearing the abode of Francis Bernardone whose
+preaching at San Giorgio only a month before had so thrilled her,
+inspiring her in this strange way to seek the life he had described in
+such fiery words. And just as she came in sight of the Portiuncula the
+chanting of the brethren, which had reached her in the wood, suddenly
+ceased, and they came out with lighted torches in expectation of her
+coming. Swiftly and without a word she passed in to attend the
+midnight mass which Francis was to serve.
+
+The ceremony was simple, wherein lies the charm of all things
+franciscan. The service over and the last blessing given, St. Francis
+led Clare towards the altar and with his own hands cut off her long
+fair hair and unclasped the jewels from her neck. But a few minutes
+more and a daughter of the proud house of Scifi stood clothed in the
+brown habit of the order, the black veil of religion falling about her
+shoulders, lovelier far in this nun-like severity than she had been
+when decked out in all her former luxury of silken gowns and precious
+gems.
+
+It was arranged that Clare was to go afterwards to the benedictine
+nuns of San Paolo near Bastia, about an hour's walk further on in the
+plain. So when the final vows had been taken, St. Francis took her by
+the hand and they passed out of the chapel together just as dawn was
+breaking, while the brethren returned to their cells gazing half sadly
+as they passed, at the coils of golden hair and the little heap of
+jewels which still lay upon the altar cloth.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Those early days at the Portiuncula were among the most important of
+Francis' life; dreams which had come to him while he spent long hours
+in the caves and woods near Assisi were to be fully realised, and the
+work he felt inspired to perform was to be carried out in the busy
+villages and cities of Italy and even further afield. All this was now
+very clear to Francis, and more than ever anxious to keep the
+simplicity of his order untouched, he taught his followers, in words
+which fell so gently yet so earnestly from his lips, that they were to
+toil without ceasing, and restlessly and without pause to wander from
+castle to castle, from city to city, in search of those who needed
+help. It may therefore at first seem strange that the "Penitents of
+Assisi" owning nothing but the peace within their hearts, desiring no
+better place for prayer than a cavern in some mountain gorge, should
+establish themselves near a chapel which, if not nominally their own,
+was practically regarded as the property of the Friars Minor. But in
+this again we feel the wisdom and tenderness of the saint for his
+little community. With all the fervour and fire of enthusiasm which
+impelled him like a living force to seek his end, he well knew that
+without some place in which to meet together and rest awhile, his
+followers, who however much imbued with his ardent spirit were but
+mortal men, would very likely fall away from the high ideal he had set
+before them.
+
+Thus the Portiuncula became to the brethren as a nest, where like
+tired birds that long had been upon the wing, they could return after
+much wandering to peaceful thoughts, to prayer and quiet labour.
+
+  [Illustration: THE PORTIUNCULA IN THE TIME OF ST. FRANCIS (FROM THE
+  "COLLIS PARADISI").]
+
+It is not very difficult, with the print from the "Collis
+Paradisi"[57] before us, and the remembrance of the large oaks
+which still mark the ancient Roman roads leading from Assisi to the
+plain, to call up the picture of the strange franciscan hamlet
+clustering round a pent-roofed chapel, and with only trees for a
+convent wall. What a life of peace in the mud huts! what a life of
+turmoil and angry strife raging in the city just in sight!
+
+The spirit of those days, when monachism meant all that was purely
+ideal and beautiful, seems to live again. Then, day and night, each
+brother strove to fit himself for the work he had in view, drawing
+into his soul the peace and love he learned from nature herself as the
+forest leaves rustled above his cell or the nightingales accompanied
+the midnight office with their song. And when his turn came to take up
+the pilgrim's staff and follow the lead of Francis, he went with
+cheerfulness to bring to the people some of that child-like joy and
+lightness of heart which marked the Little Brethren through whatever
+land they wandered as the disciples of St. Francis.
+
+Let us for a moment leave the Umbrian valley for the country near
+Oxford, where on a bitter Christmas Day, two friars were journeying
+upon their first mission to England.
+
+"Going into a neighbouring wood they picked their way along a rugged
+path over the frozen mud and hard snow, whilst blood stained the track
+of their naked feet without their perceiving it. The younger friar
+said to the elder: 'Father, shall I sing and lighten our journey?' and
+on receiving permission he thundered forth a Salve Regina
+misericordiæ.... Now, when the hymn was concluded ... he who had been
+the consoler said, with a kind of self congratulation to his
+companion: 'Brother, was not that antiphonal well sung?'"
+
+In this simple story, told us in the chronicle of Lanercost, how true
+rings the franciscan note struck by Francis in those early days at the
+Portiuncula. He was for ever telling the brethren not to show
+sorrowful faces to one another, saying, as recorded by Brother Leo:
+"Let this sadness remain between God and thyself, and pray to Him that
+of His mercy He may forgive thee, and restore to thy soul His healthy
+joyance whereof He deprived thee as a punishment for thy sins."
+
+It is all so long ago, and yet in reading those ancient chronicles the
+big church of the Angeli is for a time forgotten, and only the vision
+of the Portiuncula and the mud huts, with the brethren ever to and fro
+upon the road, remains with us as a strange picture in our modern
+hurried life.
+
+But although the brethren lived so quietly in this retreat of still
+repose, St. Francis, ever watching over the welfare of his flock, was
+careful that prayer and meditation should never be an excuse for
+idleness, which of all vices he most abhorred. Therefore he encouraged
+each friar who in the world had followed some trade, to continue it
+here; so we hear of Beato Egidio, on his return from one of his long
+journeys, seated at the door of his hut busily employed in making rush
+baskets, while Brother Juniper, in those rare moments when he was out
+of mischief, would pass his time in mending sandals with an awl he
+kept up his sleeve for the purpose. Besides these individual
+occupations there was much to attend to even in such humble dwellings
+as those round the Portiuncula. Sometimes there were sick friars to
+nurse, or vegetables had to be planted in the orchard and provisions
+to be obtained, while the office of doorkeeper, as "Angels" came
+perpetually to ask pertinent questions of the brethren, became quite a
+laborious task. When it fell to Brother Masseo to answer the door he
+had little peace. Upon one occasion he went in haste to see who was
+making such a noise and found a "fair youth clothed as though for a
+journey," so he spoke somewhat roughly, and the youth enquired how
+knocking should be done. "Give three knocks," quoth Brother Masseo,
+little dreaming he was instructing an angel in the art of knocking,
+"with a brief space between each knock, then wait until the brother
+has time to say a paternoster and to come unto thee; and if at the end
+of that time he does not come knock once again."
+
+Things went smoothly enough when left to the management of such friars
+as Leo, Masseo or Rufino, but when one day the office of cook fell to
+Juniper, that dear jester of the brotherhood, we get a humorous
+picture of what his companions sometimes had to endure, and of the
+kindness with which they pardoned all shortcomings. The brethren had
+gone out, and Juniper being left alone devised an excellent plan
+whereby the convent might be supplied with food for a fortnight, and
+thus the cook have more time for prayer. "With all diligence," it is
+related in the _Fioretti_, "he went into the village and begged for
+several large cooking-pots, obtained fresh meat and bacon, fowls, eggs
+and herbs, also he begged a quantity of firewood, and placed all these
+upon the fire, to wit, the fowls with their feathers on, the eggs in
+their shells, and the rest in like fashion." When the brethren came
+home, one that was well acquainted with the simplicity of Brother
+Juniper went into the kitchen, and seeing so many and such large pots
+on a great fire, sat down amazed without saying a word, and watched
+with what anxious care Brother Juniper did this cooking. Because of
+the fierceness of the fire he could not well get near to skim the
+pots, so he took a plank and tied it with a rope tight to his body and
+sprang from one pot to the other, so that it was a joy to see him.
+Contemplating all with great delight, this brother went forth from the
+kitchen and finding the other brothers, said: "In sooth I tell you,
+Brother Juniper is making a marriage feast."
+
+Then in hurried Juniper, all red with his exertions and the heat of
+the fire, explaining the excellent plan he had devised; and as he set
+his mess upon the table he praised it, saying: "Now these fowls are
+nourishing to the brain, this stew will refresh the body, it is so
+good"; but the stew remained untasted, for, says the _Fioretti_,
+"there is no pig in the land of Rome so famished that he would eat of
+it."
+
+At the end of any foolish adventure Brother Juniper would always ask
+pardon with such humility that he edified his companions and all the
+people he came in contact with, instead of annoying them with his
+childish pranks. His goodness was manifest, and St. Francis was often
+heard to say to those who wished to reprove him after one of his
+wildest frolics, "would that I had a whole forest of these junipers."
+
+Between the men who lived at the Portiuncula with the saint, and those
+who in later times ruled large convents in the cities, the contrast
+is so great that we would wish to draw still further from these
+inexhaustible chronicles which reveal so charmingly the life of these
+Umbrian friars. But to tell of all the events connected with the
+Portiuncula would mean recounting the history of the whole franciscan
+brotherhood, and we must now pass over many years to that saddest year
+of all, when St. Francis was brought to die in the place he had so
+carefully tended.
+
+  [Illustration: ASSISI FROM THE PLAIN]
+
+Knowing that he had but a few more weeks of life, he begged the
+brethren to find some means to carry him away from the Bishop's Palace
+at Assisi where he had been staying some time. "Verily," he told them
+pathetically, "because of my very infirmity I cannot go afoot"; so
+they carried him in their arms down the hill to the plain, and when
+they came to the hospital of San Salvatore dei Crociferi they laid him
+gently down upon the ground with his face towards Assisi, because he
+desired to bless the town for the last time before he died.
+
+The blind saint, lifting his hand in blessing, pronounced these words
+dear to the hearts of the Assisans to this day: "Blessed be thou of
+the Lord, O city, faithful to God, because through thee many souls
+shall be saved. The servants of the Most High shall dwell in great
+numbers within thy walls, and many of thy sons shall be chosen for the
+realms of heaven."
+
+Then they carried him to the hut nearest the Portiuncula which was the
+infirmary, and here his last days were passed.[58] Although he
+suffered acutely, they were days of marvellous peace and joy. It is
+beautiful to read how, with his usual tenderness, he thought of the
+brethren he was leaving to carry on the work without him, encouraging
+them all as they stood weeping round his bed. Like Isaac of old, the
+Umbrian patriarch blessed his first born, Bernard of Quintavalle,
+saying: "Come my little son that my soul may bless thee before I die,"
+while he enjoined upon all to love and honour Bernard, who had been
+the first to listen to his words now so many years ago. With all his
+sons near him St. Francis dictated his will, wherein he describes the
+way of life they were to lead, and which, coming from him at this
+solemn moment, must always remain as a precious message from the
+saint, in many ways of more importance than the Rule approved in his
+life-time by Pope Honorius. When this was done he commended once again
+to their special care the chapel of the Portiuncula. "I will," he said
+to them, "that for all times it be the mirror and good example of all
+religion, and as it were a lamp ever burning and resplendent before
+the throne of God and before the Blessed Virgin."
+
+The farewells to those of his immediate circle had been made and a
+letter written to St. Clare, and now he wished to bid "the most noble
+Roman matron, Madonna Giacoma dei Settesoli," one of his most devoted
+followers, to come and take leave of him at Assisi. The letter had
+only just been written when knocking at the door and the sound of
+horses trampling was heard outside, and the brethren going out to
+discover the cause of such unwonted noise found that Madonna Giacoma,
+accompanied by her sons, two Roman senators, had been inspired to come
+and visit the dying saint.
+
+The brethren, somewhat averse to allow a woman, even one so renowned
+for holiness as Madonna Giacoma, to enter their sacred precincts,
+called to St. Francis in their doubt: "Father, what shall be done?
+Shall we let her enter and come unto thee?" And the Blessed Francis
+said: "The regulation is to be set aside in respect to this lady whose
+great faith and devotion hath brought her hither from such far-off
+parts." So Madonna Giacoma came into the presence of the Blessed
+Francis weeping bitterly, and she brought with her the shroud-cloth,
+incense, and a great quantity of wax for the candles which were to
+burn before his body after death. She had even thought of some cakes
+made of almonds and sugar, known in Rome by the name of _mostaccioli_,
+which she had often made for him when he visited her. But the saint
+was fast failing, and could eat but little of the cakes.
+
+As the end came nearer his thoughts were drawn away from earth, and
+true to the last to his Lady Poverty, he caused himself to be laid
+naked on the ground as a token of his complete renouncement of the
+world. His face radiant with happiness, he kept asking his companions
+to recite the Canticle of the Sun, often joining in it himself or
+breaking forth into his favourite psalm _Voce mea ad Dominum Clamavi_.
+
+With words of praise and gladness the Blessed Francis of Assisi, the
+spouse of Poverty, died in a mud hut close to the shrine he loved, on
+the 3rd of October of 1226 in the forty-fifth year of his age.
+
+His soul was seen to ascend to heaven under the semblance of a star,
+but brilliant as the sun, upon clouds as white as snow. It was sunset,
+the hour when in Umbria after the stillness of a warm autumn day an
+unusual tremor passes through the land and all things in the valley
+and upon the hill-sides are stirred by it, when a flight of larks
+circled above the roof of the hut where the saint lay at rest. And
+these birds of light and gladness "seemed by their sweet singing to be
+in company with Francis praising the Lord God."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[51] It has sometimes happened that visitors, who have not read their
+Murray with sufficient care, thinking "Le Carceri" are prisons where
+convicts are kept, leave Assisi without visiting this charming spot.
+"Carceri" certainly now means "prisons," but the original meaning of
+the word in old Italian is a place surrounded by a fence and often
+remote from human habitation.
+
+[52] It is perhaps an insult to the Tescio to leave the traveller in
+Umbria under the impression that this mountain torrent is always dry.
+Certainly that is its usual condition, but we have seen it during the
+storms that break upon the land in August and September overflow its
+banks and inundate the country on either side; but with this wealth of
+water its beauty goes.
+
+[53] The large modern church of Rivo-Torto, on the road from Sta.
+Maria degli Angeli to Spello, built to enclose the huts that St.
+Francis and his companions are supposed to have lived in while tending
+the lepers, has been proved without doubt by M. Paul Sabatier to have
+no connection whatever with the Saint. In these few pages we have
+followed the information given in a pamphlet which is to be found in
+the Italian translation of his _Vie de S. François d'Assise_. It is
+impossible here to enter into all the arguments relating to this
+disputed point, but I think the authority of the best, and by far the
+most vivid of the biographers of St. Francis can be trusted without
+further comment, and that we may safely believe the hut of St.
+Francis, known as Rivo-Torto, lay close to the present chapels of San
+Rufino d'Arce and Sta. Maria Maddalena. See Appendix for information
+as to their exact position in the plain and the nearest road to them.
+_Disertazione sul primo luogo abitato dai Frati Minori su Rivo-Torto e
+nell'Ospedale dei Lebbrosi di Assisi._ di Paul Sabatier (Roma, Ermanno
+Loescher and Co., 1896).
+
+[54] See _The Transactions of the Royal Irish Academy_, vol. xxvii.
+Nov. 1882.
+
+[55] _Speculum Perfectionis_, cap. lv., edited by Paul Sabatier.
+
+[56] This custom ceased in the fifteenth century; but in the year
+1899, through the piety of the Rev. Father Bernardine Ibald, it was
+revived. Once again the franciscans take a small basket of fish to the
+abbot and his monks who now live at S. Pietro in Assisi, where the
+benedictines went when their mountain retreat was destroyed by order
+of the Assisan despot, Broglia di Trino.
+
+[57] This illustration is from a print to be seen in the somewhat rare
+edition of the _Collis Paradisi Amoenitas, seu Sacri Conventus
+Assisiensis Historiæ_, published in 1704 at Montefalco by Padre
+Angeli, and it may even have been taken from an earlier drawing. In it
+there is the true feeling of a franciscan convent, such as the saint
+hoped would continue for all time, and though there are some points
+which are incorrect (the Church of Sta. Chiara, though curiously
+enough not the convent, is represented, which was built several years
+later than San Francesco), we get a clear idea of both Assisi and its
+immediate neighbourhood. All the ancient gates of the town can be made
+out, the Roman road from Porta Mojano to San Rufino d'Arce, a faint
+indication of the path to the Carceri, and also the old road from
+Assisi to the plain out of the gate of S. Giacomo, passing not very
+far from the Ponte S. Vittorino. The wall round the Portiuncula and
+the huts did not exist in the time of St. Francis, which, together
+with the wooden gate, may have been added by Brother Elias. The
+largest hut a little to the right of the chapel was the infirmary
+where St. Francis died (now called the Chapel of St. Francis), and the
+one behind it was his cell (now known as the Chapel of the Roses, see
+chapter xi. for its story), whence he could easily pass out through
+the woods to San Rufino d'Arce hard by.
+
+[58] For fuller account see _The Mirror of Perfection_, translated by
+Sebastian Evans, caps. 107, 108, 112, and _The Little Flowers of St.
+Francis_, translated by J. W. Arnold (Temple Classics), chap. vi.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+_The building of the Basilica and Convent of San Francesco. The Story
+of Brother Elias_
+
+   "O brother mine, O beautiful brother, O brother of love, build me
+   a castle which shall have neither stone nor iron. O beautiful
+   brother, build me a city which shall have neither wood nor
+   stone."--BEATO EGIDIO.
+
+
+One of the strangest characteristics of mediæval Italy was the rivalry
+between different towns to gain possession of the bodies of holy
+people. They did not even wait for the bull of canonisation to arrive
+from Rome, but often of their own accord placed the favoured being in
+the Calendar of Saints, and papal decrees merely ratified the choice
+of popular devotion. We have an example of this with the Perugians.
+Ever on the alert to increase the glory of their city, they hovered
+near the road St. Francis was to follow during his last illness when
+borne from Cortona to Assisi, meaning to carry him off by force so
+that he might die in Perugia.[59] Never at a loss for a way out of any
+difficulty Elias hastily changed the itinerary for the journey, and
+instead of the short way by lake Thrasymene he took the much longer
+and more difficult road by Gualdo and Nocera, far back in the
+mountains to the north of Assisi. He warned the Assisans of the peril
+run by the little company of friars with their sick father, and
+soldiers were immediately sent to escort them safely to the Bishop's
+Palace where St. Francis stayed until carried to the Portiuncula when
+he knew that he was dying.
+
+They were sad days at Assisi when St. Francis was borne through the
+city blind and ill; and as he stretched out his hands to bless the
+people they bowed their heads and wept at the sight of so much
+suffering. Now that the end had come and they knew he lay safely in
+the little shrine of the Portiuncula, their mourning was changed into
+rejoicing, and as though they were preparing for a great festival,
+strange sounds of busy talk, of laughter and of singing were heard in
+the streets. Had a stranger found himself at Assisi that Sunday
+morning he might well have asked: "What victory have you gained to
+merit all this show of gladness, or what emperor are you going forth
+to greet?" And the answer would have been: "Francis, our saint, the
+son of Bernardone, returned to us when he was nigh to death, and now
+that he is dead we possess his body which will bring great honour and
+fame to our city by reason of the many miracles to be wrought at his
+tomb."
+
+The sun had not yet risen when the Assisans left their houses and
+thronged down the hill to the Portiuncula to bring the precious burden
+to rest within the more certain refuge of their walled town. "Blessed
+and praised be the Lord our God who has entrusted to us, though
+unworthy, so great a gift. Praise and glory to the ineffable Trinity,"
+they sang as they hurried along in the cold dawn. Trumpeters blew loud
+and discordant notes, nearly drowning the voices of the priests who
+vainly in the din tried to intone the canticles and psalms. The nobles
+came from their castles with lighted torches to join the procession,
+the peasants from the hills brought sprigs of olive, and those from
+the forests stripped the oaks of their finest branches which they
+waved above their heads, while children strewed the ground with
+flowers.
+
+Amidst all this stirring show of joy a kindly thought had been taken
+of St. Clare and her nuns, so that when the body of St. Francis had
+been laid in a coffin, and the long line of friars, priests and
+townsmen turned to climb the hill, they took a path skirting just
+below the town, through the vineyards and olive groves, to the convent
+of San Damiano. The sound of chanting must have warned the watchers of
+their approach long before they came in sight. An artist has pictured
+the nuns like a flock of timid sheep in his fresco, trooping out of an
+exquisitely marbled chapel, with St. Clare endeavouring to suppress
+her grief as she bends over the dead Francis, while the sisters press
+close behind her. This is how it ought to have been; but, alas, only
+an iron lattice, through which the nuns were wont to receive the Holy
+Communion, was opened for them, and the friars lifting the body of St.
+Francis from the coffin, held it in their arms at the opening as one
+by one the nuns came to kiss the pierced hands. "Madonna Chiara's"
+tears fell fast as she gazed on him who had brought such joy into her
+cloistered solitude. "Oh father, father," she murmured, "what are we
+to do now that thou hast abandoned us unhappy ones? With thee departs
+all consolation, for buried here away from the world there is none to
+console us." Restraining the lamentations which filled her heart she
+passed like a shadow out of sight to her cell, and when all the
+sisters had bidden farewell to St. Francis, the small window was
+closed "never again to open upon so sad a scene."
+
+The people, who until now had wept bitterly, began to sing again as
+the procession went on its way up the hill towards the Porta Mojano.
+The trumpets sounded louder than ever, and "with jubilation and great
+exultation" the sacred body was brought to the church of San Giorgio,
+where it was carefully laid in a marble urn covered with an iron
+grating, and guarded day and night from the prying eyes of the
+Perugians. If Francis had worked miracles during his life, those
+chronicled at his tomb are even more marvellous; in recounting some
+which read like fairy tales, a biographer recounts with pride that,
+"even from heaven, the Saint showed his courtesy to all."
+
+Devotion to St. Francis was not confined to Umbria or even to Italy,
+for we read how his fame spread throughout France, and how the King
+and Queen with all the barons of the land, came to Paris to kiss one
+of his relics. "People journeyed from the east and from the west,"
+enthusiastically exclaims Celano with a total disregard of detail,
+"they came from the north and from the south, even the learned and the
+lettered who abounded in Paris at that time."
+
+But while France was being stirred by the news of perpetual miracles
+and prodigies wrought through the intercession of the saint, and
+Assisi in consequence was fast growing into a place of great
+importance in the world, Pope Gregory IX, who had been lately elected
+upon the death of Honorius III, spent many hours in the Cannonica at
+Perugia wrestling with his doubts concerning the truth of the greatest
+miracle of all, the miracle of the Stigmata. While in this state of
+uncertainty and perplexity St. Francis, the _Fioretti_ relates,
+appeared to him one night, and showed him the five wounds inflicted by
+the Seraph upon his hands, feet and side. The vision, it seems,
+dispelled all doubt from the mind of Pope Gregory, for in conclave
+with the cardinals he proclaimed the sanctity of his friend, the
+Poverello d'Assisi, and determined to set the final seal of the church
+upon his miracles and fame.
+
+This vision was the prelude of a great ceremony held a few days later
+in San Giorgio for the canonisation of Francis, at which all Umbria
+seems to have been present. Pope Gregory, clothed in vestments of
+cloth of gold embroidered with precious stones, his tiara "almost as
+an aureole of sanctity about his head," sat stiffly on his pontifical
+throne like some carved image, surrounded by cardinals in crimson
+garments and bishops in white stoles. All eyes were fixed upon this
+splendid group, and it is not improbable that among the spectators
+stood Pietro Bernardone and Madonna Pica, and many who had reviled
+Francis in his early days of sanctity, and now, within two years of
+his death, witnessed him placed among the greatest of the saints.
+Gregory had prepared an eloquent address, which he delivered in a
+sonorous voice occasionally broken by sobs of emotion. Becoming more
+and more enthusiastic as he proceeded, he compared Francis to a full
+moon, a refulgent sun, a star rising above the morning mists, and when
+he had finished the pious homily, a sub-deacon read out a list of the
+saint's miracles, and a learned cardinal, "not without copious
+weeping," discoursed thereon, while the Pope listened, shedding
+"rivers of tears," and breaking forth every now and then into
+deep-drawn sighs. The prelates wept so devoutly that their vestments
+were in great part wet, and the ground was drenched with their tears.
+The ceremony ended when the Pope rose to bless the people, and intoned
+the _Te Deum_, in which all joined with such good will that the "earth
+resounded in great jubilee."
+
+Had St. Francis foreseen how his humility would be rewarded? This we
+know, that he in part had realised how his order would slip away from
+his ideal, and there is a deep note of sadness in many pages of his
+life, showing us how fully he realised the pitfalls his disciples were
+likely to fall into when he was no longer there to watch over them
+with tender care. Often while he was absent for only a little time the
+brethren forgot his simple rule, building cells and houses too
+spacious and pretentious for the home of the Lady Poverty. This had
+been one of the signs to him that his earnest prayers to God, his
+example and admonitions to his followers, which come to us through his
+letters and the pages of Brother Leo like the cry of one who bravely
+fought against the inevitable, were all to be in vain. It is a tragic
+story, and rendered still more so by the fact that the Saint's last
+years should have been saddened by this knowledge of coming events.
+
+Only a little while and the teaching of poverty and obscurity which he
+had so deeply implanted in the hearts of his followers was to be
+completely swept away; upon the ruins of that first franciscan order,
+guarded jealously for a time by a faithful few, arose the new
+franciscan spirit which Elias Buonbarone, inspired by the will of
+Gregory IX, brought into being almost before the echo of his master's
+words had died away. It is not for us in this small space to trace
+the many changes that crept into the young community, but we simply
+note as a fact, what to some may appear exaggerated, that the order
+St. Francis founded, and prayed would continue as he left it, ceased
+at his death, while the order that grew up afterwards bore the
+unmistakable stamp of Elias and the Vatican.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The extraordinary humility of St. Francis gave rise to the myth that
+when he lay dying at the Portiuncula he expressed a strong desire to
+be buried in the most despised spot near Assisi, which, because
+criminals were said to have been executed there, bore the name of
+Colle del Inferno. It seems unlike him to have been concerned with
+what might become of "brother body" after death, and it was probably
+not until Gregory IX conceived the idea of building a church in honour
+of his friend, that a suitable burial-place was searched for near the
+walls of the town, if not actually within them, where the citizens
+could safely guard the precious relics. Everything favoured the
+designs of Gregory, for not only was he fortunate in finding a man
+like Elias, capable, prompt and energetic, but the one place suited
+for the erection of a great church, happened to be in the possession
+of a generous citizen of Assisi. No sooner were the wishes of the
+Pontiff made known than Simon Puzzarelli offered his land on the
+Collis Inferni, which from this time forward Gregory ordered to be
+called Collis Paradisi, the Hill of Paradise.[60]
+
+A document, duly sealed and signed, is still in the Assisan archives,
+in which we read how the site for the building of "an oratory or
+church for the most holy body of St. Francis" was given over, in words
+that admitted of no withdrawal, to Elias as representative of the Lord
+Pope Gregory IX--"dedit, tradedit, cesset, delegavit et donavit
+simpliciter et irrevocabiliter." Now the use of the word _oratory_ is
+a remarkable fact as suggesting that at the beginning the Assisans
+little dreamed of the erection of a great basilica which would cast
+their cathedral entirely into the shade.
+
+A few days after the ceremony of the canonisation of St. Francis, Pope
+Gregory, amid the usual crowd of Umbrian spectators, laid the
+foundation-stone of the franciscan basilica. Then being recalled by
+his Roman subjects, whom Assisan chroniclers describe as "a race of
+men most seditious and fierce," he was obliged to hurry south, leaving
+Elias to carry out his wishes as he thought best.
+
+So far the task left to Elias was easy enough, for money was not
+lacking, and countless workmen were ready to begin the great
+enterprise; but the question of who should design a church upon the
+site chosen was a more difficult matter to settle, as Vasari tells us:
+"There was a great scarcity of good architects at this time, and the
+church, having to be built upon a very high hill, at the base of which
+flows a torrent called the Tescio, an excellent artist was required
+for the work. After much deliberation a certain Maestro Jacopo Tedesco
+was called to Assisi as being the best architect then to be found, and
+having examined the site, and consulted the wishes of the fathers, who
+were holding a Chapter in Assisi to discuss the matter, he designed
+the plan of a very beautiful church and convent."[61]
+
+"Jacopo" is said to have come to Italy in the retinue of the Emperor
+Frederick II. Vasari recounts that the fame he gained all over Italy
+by his work at Assisi was so great that the Florentines summoned him
+to build them bridges and palaces, and "Jacopo," charmed with the
+Tuscan city, married and dwelt there. The citizens, following a custom
+which still continues in every Italian town, changed his name to Lapo,
+and he is revealed to us as father of the famous Arnolfo di Lapo,
+architect of the Florentine cathedral and of the Palazzo della
+Signoria. In the seductive pages of Vasari the account reads so
+pleasantly that it seems a pity later writers should have discovered
+that the story rests upon uncertain dates and legends. Vasari's
+endeavour to amalgamate three artists into one person, have forced
+many to the opposite extreme, until even the existence of "Jacopo
+Tedesco" is denied, and they are reduced to speak of _an_ architect
+who designed the church and convent of San Francesco.[62]
+
+Such is the irony of fate, that while numerous documents remain giving
+the names of contractors and minor masons employed in the building
+there is absolutely no evidence or clue of any kind as to the
+architect employed by Elias. We can only suppose that the document
+relating to this and other interesting points in connection with the
+decoration of the church, must have been destroyed by the Perugians
+when they sacked Assisi under Jacopo Piccinino and burnt so many
+treasures in the archives. We are consequently at the mercy of local
+legends, which were no doubt recounted to Vasari by the Assisans
+themselves when he visited the town in the middle of the sixteenth
+century. But there is still the evidence of our own eye to help us to
+know something of the builder of San Francesco, the builder of the
+first Gothic church in Italy. We are told he was a German; but then we
+know from Mr Fergusson's Handbook of Architecture that Germans were
+only just awakening to the Gothic influences at the time of St.
+Francis's death, and, when they wished to build churches in the new
+style they called in French masons to help them. Was it therefore
+likely that Germany should have given the mysterious architect to
+Assisi? A church recalling the Assisan Basilica may be vainly searched
+for in Germany or in Lombardy and this further fact inclines us to
+believe in the theory of M. Edouard Corroyer.
+
+  [Illustration: CHURCH AND CONVENT OF SAN FRANCESCO]
+
+Whether the man who conceived the original idea of raising one church
+above another flanked by a colonnaded convent on the spur of a great
+mountain was called Philip or James, or whether he came from a Lombard
+or a German province seems of small importance compared with the
+country where he learned his art. Even supposing "Jacopo" to have been
+a northern Italian from the home of the Comacine Guild of master
+masons, which is extremely likely, everything goes to prove that he
+must have drawn his inspiration for the Assisan Basilica straight
+from the south of France. What establishes the French parentage of
+San Francesco is the mode of construction, especially visible in the
+Upper Church, and which, as M. Corroyer says, "possesses all the
+characteristics peculiar to the French architecture in the south of
+France at the close of the thirteenth and the beginning of the
+fourteenth century, of which the Cathedral of Albi [in Aquitaine] is
+the most perfect type. The single nave, its buttresses projecting
+externally in the form of half turrets, add to the likeness of the
+Italian church of Assisi with that of Albi in France."[63] A glance at
+the illustrations of the two churches will bear this theory out better
+than many words; and it will be seen at once that had the half turrets
+between the bay windows of San Francesco been completed with pointed
+roofs and small lancet windows, as no doubt was the intention, the
+likeness would be even more striking.
+
+Although "Jacopo" left a very substantial mark of his genius upon the
+Umbrian hill-side, he came and went like a shadow, leaving his designs
+and plans to be carried on by his young disciple Fra Filippo Campello,
+whom we shall meet with again in the chapter on Santa Chiara. Little,
+therefore, as we know of this earlier portion of its history, San
+Francesco at least remains to us in all its first prime and glory to
+tell its own tale, and endless should be the hymn of praise sung by
+the Assisans for the chance which brought so beautiful a creation
+within their walls.
+
+It seems indeed strange that a style so new and so admired, was not
+more faithfully adhered to at a time when cathedrals and churches were
+being erected in every Italian city. Perhaps the Romanesque and
+Byzantine influences from the south so tempered the Gothic tendencies
+of Lombard architects, that they were unable to attain the true ideal,
+and succeeded only in creating a style of their own, to be found at
+Florence, Siena and Orvieto, known as Italian Gothic. Thus it happens
+that the Assisans are the proud possessors, not only of the first
+Gothic church built in Italy during the dawn of the new era, but of a
+church which is unique, as recalling less dimly than those of other
+cities the splendour of the northern cathedrals.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The rapidity with which the Assisan Basilica progressed is one of the
+most wonderful results of the love inspired by St. Francis among
+mediæval Christians. The generosity of the Catholic world was so
+stirred that donations poured in without ceasing from Germany and
+France, and even from Jerusalem and Morocco. "Cardinals, bishops,
+dukes, princes, counts and barons," write the chroniclers, helped
+Elias in his work, while the people of Umbria, too poor to give money,
+came in numbers, out of the reverence they bore the Saint, to work for
+small and often for no wages. It was a busy time; and Assisi awoke to
+a sense of her importance. Under the vigilant eye of Elias, armies of
+masons and labourers worked as unremittingly as ants at a nest, while
+processions of carts drawn by white oxen, went ever to and fro upon
+the road leading to the quarries, bringing creamy-white, rose and
+golden-coloured blocks of Subasian stone.
+
+This universal enthusiasm enabled Elias to complete the Lower Church
+in twenty-two months, while the Upper Church was roofed in six years
+later, and finished in all essential details by 1253. But while Elias
+was applauded by most people, a few of the franciscans, headed by Fra
+Leo, still clung to the letter of the franciscan rule, and bitterly
+disapproved of these innovations. They sorrowfully looked on at the
+army of workers, raising, as if by magic, walls and colonnades upon
+the hill-side and towers ever higher against the sky. They watched
+blocks of marble and stone being chiselled into cornices, friezes and
+capitals ornamented with foliage and flowers, until, with despair in
+their hearts, they slowly returned to their mud huts in the plain. The
+dreams of Francis were vanishing fast as the allegiance to the Lady
+Poverty diminished. Now her shrine existed only in the Carceri, in San
+Damiano and in the Portiuncula, where few sought her company, for all
+eyes were turned towards the new Basilica. The words of the Master,
+recorded faithfully in Leo's biography, were ever ringing in his ears:
+"Set a good hedge round in lieu of a wall, as a sign of holy poverty
+and humility ... build poor little cells of mud and wood, and other
+cells where at times the brethren may pray and work to the gain of
+virtue and the avoidance of sloth. Also cause small churches to be
+built; they ought not to raise great churches for the sake of
+preaching to the people, or for any other reason, for they will show
+greater humility and give a better example by going to preach in other
+churches. And if by chance prelates, clerics, religious or seculars
+should come to these abodes, the poor houses, the little cells and
+small churches will be better sermons and cause greater edification to
+them than many words."[64]
+
+No wonder that Leo and his friends watched Elias at his work with no
+friendly eye, for between the mud huts which Francis had planned with
+so much simplicity, and the massive Basilica and palatial convent,
+stretched an infinite chasm, separating the old order from the new.
+
+They were still more unhappy and scandalised when Elias, who had the
+full permission of Gregory IX. for this innovation, placed a marble
+vase outside San Francesco to receive the contributions of those
+anxious to see the church quickly finished. A curious account is given
+by a latin chronicler of the warfare which ensued between the
+standard-bearers of the new and the old franciscan spirit: "Some
+brothers of marvellous sanctity and purity went to Perugia to consult
+Brother Egidio, a good and pious man, concerning the erection of so
+large a building and the manner of collecting money, which seemed to
+be expressly against the rule. And Brother Egidio answered them: "If
+that building were to reach from Assisi to here [to Perugia] a little
+corner would suffice for me to dwell in." And they having asked him
+what he thought about the vase, he said, turning to Brother Leo: "If
+thou considerest thyself already dead [to the world and its
+persecutions] go and break it. But if thou livest, stay thy hand, for
+perchance thou mayest not be able to bear the persecution of that
+Brother Elias."[65] Hearing this, Brother Leo went with his companions
+and broke the vase to pieces. Then Brother Elias, hearing this, had
+them severely beaten by his servants, and drove them from Assisi in
+great confusion. For this reason a great tumult arose among the
+brethren. Because of these aforesaid excesses, and because Brother
+Elias threatened the complete destruction of the rule, when the
+brethren met in general Chapter they deprived him of the office of
+Vicar General, and unanimously elected Brother John of Florence
+[Giovanni Parenti]."[66]
+
+But these murmurs were drowned in the din of public applause which
+enabled Elias to work in his own way, unscrupulously dispersing every
+difficulty without any reference to the rule of St. Francis.
+
+He continued to be the presiding spirit at Assisi, and such was the
+success of his untiring energy that by the month of May 1230, the
+Lower Church of the Basilica was ready to receive the "most sacred
+body" of the Saint, while the magnificent quarters in the adjoining
+convent were ready for those friars who belonged to the moderate
+party, and approved of the new order of things.
+
+Pope Gregory was unable to visit Assisi at this time owing to
+difficulties with his unruly Roman subjects, but he sent innumerable
+indulgences, golden crosses studded with precious stones containing
+relics of the true cross, vases of silver and gold, and a large sum of
+money for the further advancement of the building. These generous
+gifts were followed by a Brief, which in calmer moments the monks
+might have viewed with irritation, declaring both Basilica and convent
+to be immediately subject to the Holy See. The franciscan order was
+fast becoming a Papal institution, to be patronised and ruled by
+succeeding Pontiffs.
+
+While Giovanni Parenti was preparing for the Conclave to be held in
+the spacious rooms of the new convent, the wily Elias was holding
+secret councils with the magistrates of the town as to ensuring the
+safe conduct of the body of St. Francis to the Basilica. The number of
+people continually arriving in anticipation of the coming ceremony
+made them somewhat uneasy, and their doubts were carefully discussed
+in the Communal Palace. They came to the conclusion that if the exact
+place of the saint's sepulchre was known, there would always be the
+danger of its being rifled by the citizens of neighbouring towns,
+especially by the Perugians, whose partiality for relics was well
+known. So a stratagem, most likely invented by the fertile brain of
+Elias, was decided upon and succeeded admirably.
+
+The friars and citizens, unconscious of the plot hatched in their
+midst, were all eager for the day of the Translation. The Umbrians
+left their towns empty to assist at the great spectacle, and their
+number was so great, that, failing to find room within the walls of
+Assisi, they wandered like droves of cattle on the hills above trying
+to obtain a sight of the procession. It was a great day in the annals
+of Assisi; outside the little church of San Giorgio a triumphal car,
+drawn by a pair of magnificent oxen, their whiteness almost hidden
+beneath purple draperies and their horns wreathed and garlanded with
+flowers, stood waiting for the holy burden. Three Papal Legates and
+Elias placed the heavy sarcophagus with their own hands upon the car,
+covering it over with a piece of rich brocaded silk sent for the
+occasion by the mother of King Louis of France. They kept close to the
+car all the time, while the brethren, holding palms and torches,
+formed a long procession followed by the bishops and their clergy, and
+the Podestà with his retinue of crimson-robed priors. It was the month
+of May, and from every garden and terrace the nobles and their ladies
+showered flowers over the "sacred ark" as it was borne slowly up the
+street amidst the deafening sound of trumpets and the cheers of the
+populace. All that could be done to honour St. Francis had been
+thought of; Gregory IX. had even composed a hymn to be sung on that
+day in which the "Poverello" was compared to Christ. They were in the
+midst of the hymn of praise and quite close to the new Basilica when
+the heavy tramp of numerous armed men was suddenly heard; swiftly a
+passage was made through the crowd, who for the moment fell back
+amazed and powerless, while the soldiers hurried with the sarcophagus
+into the church, closely followed by Elias, who promptly shut and
+barred the door. After the first moment of surprise, a wild burst of
+indignation arose from the thousands who were thus deprived of a
+spectacle which they had come miles to see. They howled like wild
+beasts baulked of their prey, banging at the doors of the church in
+their fury; but silence reigned within, for Elias and his accomplices
+were stealthily engaged in hiding the body of St. Francis in the very
+bowels of the mountain, where for five centuries it remained unseen
+and undisturbed.
+
+Till far into the night the people continued to murmur; the bewildered
+friars asked each other what this strange behaviour of Elias meant,
+and the only people who preserved any appearance of calmness were
+Messer il Podestà of Assisi and his priors, who smiled to see how well
+the plot had worked. It was not long before the scandal reached the
+ears of Pope Gregory. The enemies of Elias painted the story in
+glowing colours, and the Pope expressed himself greatly shocked at
+sacrilegious hands having been laid upon the holy body of the saint.
+He blamed the magistrates for allowing such a tumult to arise, and
+called upon them to give due explanation of their conduct within a
+fortnight at the court of Rome under pain of their city being laid
+under an interdict. The Pope's Brief caused consternation, and his
+accusations of their ingratitude for past favour rankled deeply. We
+are not told how the anger of the Pope was pacified, but no doubt both
+Elias and the Podestà explained satisfactorily the reasons for so
+strange a burial, as Assisi continued to enjoy the patronage of the
+Holy See. The efforts of Elias to ensure the safety of the body of St.
+Francis had been eminently successful, and Gregory could hardly fail
+to pardon the unusual manner in which this had been obtained.
+
+Out of the mysterious events of that day of tumult grew a legend which
+lasted until the body of St. Francis was finally discovered five
+centuries later. It was believed that a church far surpassing the
+other two in grandeur and beauty had been built beneath them by Elias,
+and that St. Francis risen from his tomb stood in the midst, his hands
+crossed upon his breast, his head thrown back, gazing eternally
+towards the sky. The Umbrians, refusing to believe that their saint
+could suffer the common lot of mortals, loved to think of him as
+"almost alive," waiting for the last call, surrounded by the glorious
+beauty of a hidden church which they had never seen and only dimly
+pictured to themselves. Vasari refers to this "invisible church"
+described to him by the awe-struck citizens, when he mentions that
+"the tomb containing the body of the glorious saint is in the lowest
+church where no one enters, and whose doors are walled up"; and in the
+beginning of his description of the Basilica, he speaks of three
+ranges of buildings placed one above the other, the lowest of all
+being subterranean, which is curious as showing how closely he
+followed tradition regarding the Assisan church. Padre Angeli so
+unhesitatingly accepted the story that in his "Collis Paradisi" he
+drew from imagination a plan, together with a picture of the
+"invisible church." It represents a long vaulted hall somewhat
+recalling the architecture of the Upper Church, at the end of which is
+St. Francis standing upon his tomb in a recess corresponding to a kind
+of choir; the vaulted roof is supported by slender columns with
+chiselled capitals, and the walls and floor are ornamented with
+marbles and mosaic of different colours.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+To close this chapter without touching upon the career of Elias, who
+is at once the black sheep of the franciscan order and one of the
+greatest citizens of Assisi, would be impossible. Few have written
+calmly about him, trying either to exculpate him or blaming his
+actions too severely, so that it is difficult to obtain any just idea
+of the real motives which guided him in an ill-starred life. Elias was
+neither devil nor saint, though he possessed the energy of both and
+his marked and domineering character would have fitted him better for
+the world than for the cloister. Ambition seems to have been his chief
+fault, together with a certain proud reserve which kept him aloof from
+his companions. From the various references to him in the early
+biographies of St. Francis we feel the writers failed ever to come
+quite in touch with one so outside their lives, and whom they
+considered as a kind of Judas--for did he not betray the interests of
+the Master?
+
+"Elias is an altogether different type of man from the simple-minded
+Francis," writes Mrs Oliphant, echoing the general opinion. "He is an
+ambitious and ascetic churchman, of the class which has pushed Rome
+into much power and many abuses--an almost conventional development of
+the intellectual monk, making up for compulsory humbleness in external
+matters by the highest strain of ecclesiastical ambition and spiritual
+pride."
+
+But while all abused him, none doubted his very exceptional talents,
+and even in the _Fioretti_ he was accounted "one of the most learned
+men in the world," and St. Francis showed the great confidence he had
+in him by naming him Vicar-General after the death of Peter Cataneo.
+It was at a Chapter held in the wood by the Portiuncula that the saint
+expressed his desire to again resign the government of the order to
+another, and while Elias discoursed to the assembled friars St.
+Francis sat at his feet listening attentively to every word.[67] On
+the other hand, the saint was quite aware of his faults, and from the
+_Fioretti_, where Elias is pictured for artistic effect in strong
+colours as the wicked friar, we seem to realize the strain that often
+must have come between these two very different men. Thus we read that
+it being revealed to St. Francis that Elias was destined to lose his
+soul and bring dishonour on the order, he conceived such an antipathy
+towards him that he would even avoid meeting him, although at the time
+they were living in the same convent. The scene when Elias,
+discovering the reason of his displeasure, threw himself at the feet
+of the saint to implore his intercession with heaven reveals in the
+most touching way the great belief and reverence inspired by St.
+Francis in the heart of the least docile of his followers. "I have so
+great a faith in thy prayers," said Elias, "that were I in the midst
+of hell, and thou wert to pray to God for me, I should feel some
+relief; therefore again I pray thee to commend me, a sinner, unto God
+who came to save sinners that He may receive me into His mercy." And
+this did Brother Elias say with much devotion and many tears, so that
+St. Francis, like a pitying father, promised to pray to God for him.
+It will be seen how far the revelation of St. Francis came true, and
+the manner in which his prayer was answered.
+
+So long as Elias remained under the influence of Francis his pride was
+tempered, and his ambition curbed, but when cast upon his own
+resources he gave full rein to the ideas which had no doubt been
+forming in his mind for some years past. Elias thought the franciscan
+order, if faithful to the Lady Poverty, would prove of small
+importance; and he therefore willingly leagued with Gregory IX. to
+mould it so that it should become a visible power upon the earth. The
+vision he conjured up with the sceptre in his own hand was very fair;
+and he failed to see why religion should not be served quite as well
+within the massive convent walls he had helped to rear, as when
+dwelling in a mud hut. He had too broad a mind to look closely to the
+detail of his rule; he only saw the broad outline of his master's
+teaching; and who can say whether after all he was not right? This we
+know, the mud huts have long since vanished, while thousands come each
+year to pray at the tomb of Francis within sight of Giotto's
+master-pieces. They sing aloud his praises, and as they pray and sing
+throw coppers and silver in heaps upon the altar steps, and pass out
+of the church into the sunlight again, knowing little of the lessons
+St. Francis spent his life in teaching.
+
+But we must return again to Elias and his many troubles with the
+franciscan world. While patronized by Pope Gregory, he also seems to
+have had a strong party of monks on his side, probably those who had
+joined the Order during the last few years. Their names have not come
+down to us, and their personalities have merged in that of Elias who
+thus led them forward on a somewhat perilous way. They began by
+attempting to depose Giovanni Parenti while he was holding a Chapter
+in the new convent, a few days after the ceremony of the Translation
+of the body of St. Francis to the Basilica. His friars were gathered
+round him discussing the various missions to be undertaken, and the
+work that had been done during the past year, when the door was thrown
+open and a crowd of excited friars with Elias at their head appeared
+upon the threshold. Before anyone could realize what this strange
+apparition meant, Elias was borne rapidly along by his companions and
+installed in the seat of Giovanni Parenti, while a scene of
+indescribable tumult arose among those whose indignation had not yet
+cooled down after the events of the past week. It is said that St.
+Anthony of Padua was present at this conclave, and vainly tried to
+calm the excitement, but his voice was drowned in the clamour. At
+last, driven to despair, Giovanni Parenti began to cry aloud and tear
+his garments as one distraught; he could not have hit upon a better
+plan, for where words had failed this piece of dramatic acting
+produced an instantaneous effect. His friars formed a vanguard round
+him, acclaiming him Vicar-General as they beat back the intruders with
+hard blows and angry scowls. Elias, seeing the game was lost, threw
+himself on the ground, and with expressions of deep contrition
+implored forgiveness. He was pardoned, but banished to a distant
+hermitage, where humbled and sad he pondered for many months upon his
+next move. He allowed his hair and beard to grow to such a length that
+even his enemies began to believe his repentance was sincere, and only
+two years after his misconduct we find him elected Vicar-General in
+the place of his former rival, and, under the title of Guardian and
+Master of the Basilica and Convent, in full command of the works at
+San Francesco.
+
+He now enjoyed a season of peace and plenty in the comfortable
+quarters of the franciscan convent, and is said to have gathered a
+household about him surpassing the splendour of a cardinal's court.
+Fra Illuminato di Rieti (afterwards Bishop of Assisi) acted as his
+secretary, writing numberless letters to "the Pope and the Princes of
+the World," for Elias was in correspondence with more than one crowned
+head and paid many visits to distant courts in quest of money for the
+Assisan Church. On these journeys he always went on horseback, and
+even when going from one church to another in Umbria, he was well
+mounted on a "fat and stout palfrey," to the intense scandal of some
+of the friars. "He also had secular servants," writes an indignant
+chronicler, "all dressed in divers colours like to those of bishops,
+who ministered to him in all things." His food was always good, and he
+had the reputation of keeping an excellent cook.
+
+This peaceful and successful period of his life was of short duration,
+for he soon fell into dire trouble and disgrace. It was his misfortune
+to be sent by Pope Gregory, who trusted implicitly in his discretion
+and ability, on a mission to Frederic II, in the hopes of bringing the
+Emperor to a sense of his misdoings. A disciple of St. Francis seemed
+to be the right person to send as an emissary of peace; but instead of
+the orthodox humble and barefooted friar, we read of him as a very
+haughty personage, quite at his ease in the political world, then
+ringing with the angry cries of Guelph and Ghibelline.
+
+No sooner had Elias reached the franciscan convent at Parma than the
+magnates of the city, aware of the errand he had come upon, assembled
+to do him honour. Fra Salimbene, who was present at the interview,
+describes how Elias waited for his visitors, his head swathed in an
+Armenian turban, and comfortably seated upon a soft chair drawn close
+to a huge fire. When Gherardo da Correggio, known as "Messer il
+Podestà of the big teeth," entered the room, Elias remained seated,
+and to the astonishment of all in no way disturbed himself for his
+illustrious guest. The Podestà very sensibly took no offence, but
+passed the matter over by expressing his wonder that the Vicar-General
+should have chosen so cold a season for his visit to Lombardy--a
+glance at the fire had told him that this franciscan friar liked
+comfort as much as most people.
+
+There is no detailed account of the interview of Elias with the
+Emperor to inform us whether he behaved at it with the same easy
+familiarity; all we know is that Frederic, "the wonder of the world,"
+and Elias, the Assisan friar, formed a friendship which lasted during
+the remainder of their lives, linking them together in a common fate.
+Whether Elias was won over from the first by the charm of so
+fascinating a personality, or simply baffled by a mind more subtle
+than his own, it is difficult to say, as the chroniclers have drawn
+too thick a veil over this unfortunate meeting for anyone to judge
+with fairness. His failure certainly gave a good opportunity to his
+many enemies to commence a very satisfactory scheme of blackening his
+character with the Pope; and the rumour flew to Rome that he was a
+traitor to his church. Branded with the abhorred name of Ghibelline
+there was now little hope for Elias, whose friendship with the
+arch-enemy of Holy Church grew always stronger. The Lombards becoming
+uneasy, accused Gregory of favouring the Emperor, while the latter
+bitterly complained that the Pope listened too much to the cause of
+the Lombards, and thought too little of the imperial dignity. At last
+a Chapter was called to enquire into the conduct of the Vicar-General,
+and as he was not present, his misdeeds lost nothing by the telling.
+Although Elias was deposed, and his place filled by a Pisan, he still
+held the title of Guardian and Master of the Assisan Basilica, but in
+a city of such strong Guelph sympathies as Assisi, it was unlikely he
+would be left in peace, especially as the Pope no longer favoured him.
+Life soon became impossible there, and of his own free will he retired
+to a hermitage in the woods of Cortona, followed by some dozen
+faithful friars, "not excepting," adds a spiteful chronicler, "Fra
+Bartolomeo da Padova, his most excellent cook." Thence he wrote to the
+Pope explaining his conduct, and humbly entreating to be pardoned, but
+the letter was found years afterwards in the pocket of the Pisan
+Vicar-General, who had promised to deliver it safely at Rome. Whether
+the letter was wilfully laid aside or only forgotten, none have been
+able to decide, but the incident had disastrous effects upon Elias. He
+waited anxiously for the pardon which never came, until embittered by
+finding himself deserted by nearly everyone, he openly joined the
+party of Frederic II. He went a step further, and abused Pope Gregory
+in caustic language, taunting him with injustice and avarice, and with
+being a simonist, which of course ended in his excommunication "to the
+great scandal of the Church." The news of his disgrace spread quickly
+through Italy, and the children sang a couplet, invented on the spur
+of the moment, under the windows of franciscan convents:
+
+     "Or'e attorno Frat'Elia
+     Che pres'ha la mala via."
+
+It was the cry which met the friars in every street they passed, so
+that the name of their former Vicar-General became hateful to them.
+And yet even now Elias must have had some friends in the Order, as at
+a council held at Genoa in 1244 there were a few who wished to
+reinstate him. The Pope commanded him to appear, but as the papal
+brief never arrived he was thus again debarred from clearing his much
+damaged character. The consequence of these efforts in his behalf only
+ended in his falling still deeper into disgrace; and for the second
+time he was excommunicated. We next hear of him roaming about the
+country with Frederic II, who found him useful on more than one
+occasion as a diplomatic agent. Elias was sent with strong letters of
+recommendation from Pier delle Vigne to Baldwin II, Emperor of
+Constantinople, and to Hugo I, King of Cyprus, and he was even charged
+to arrange a marriage for a daughter of Frederic. Among his various
+talents Elias seems to have been able to accommodate himself to a
+military life. We hear of him, both at the siege of Faenza and of
+Ravenna, riding out to battle on a magnificent charger. At other times
+he found a peaceful asylum at the Emperor's court, presenting a
+strange contrast to the "strolling minstrels, troubadours, poets,
+warriors, jugglers and artists of every grade" who frequented it. Upon
+the Emperor's death Elias returned to Cortona where the citizens
+received him kindly as he had obtained privileges for them at various
+times from his patron. Here, at the small hermitage in the ilex wood,
+he passed the last few years of his life in building a Franciscan
+church and convent, aided by the citizens who gave the ground for the
+site.
+
+While the last touch was being put to the building of the great
+Assisan Basilica and it was about to be consecrated by Innocent IV, in
+1253, Elias lay dying in his little cell at Cortona. His loneliness
+touched the heart of a lay brother, who with gentle words expressed
+his sorrow at seeing him an outcast from the Order and offered him
+help. Elias, no longer the proud ambitious churchman, answered very
+gently: "My brother, I see no other way save that thou shouldst go to
+the Pope and beg him for the love of God and of St. Francis His
+servant, through whose teaching I quitted the world, to absolve me
+from his excommunication and to give me back again the habit of
+religion." The lay brother hastened to Rome and pleaded so humbly that
+Innocent "permitted him to go back, and if he found Brother Elias
+alive he was to absolve him in his name from the excommunication and
+restore unto him the habit; so full of joy the friar departed and
+returned in hot haste to Brother Elias, and finding him yet alive but
+nigh unto death he absolved him from the excommunication and put on
+him again the habit, and Brother Elias quitted this life and his soul
+was saved by the merits of St. Francis and by his prayers in which
+Brother Elias had reposed such great faith."
+
+Some say that even at the last fate pursued Elias, for the city of
+Cortona being at that time under an interdict no blessed oil could be
+found for the sacrament of extreme unction. Certainly his body was not
+allowed to rest in the church he had built for the brethren. A zealous
+friar dug it up and flung it on a dunghill, saying that no Ghibelline
+should be permitted to lie in consecrated ground.
+
+Thus it was that Elias left a name hated among the franciscans as
+bitterly as the Emperor Frederic's always has been by Guelph
+historians. But while the war against the latter still rages as
+fiercely as ever, Elias, save for the gratitude felt by the citizens
+of Assisi, rests almost forgotten and his story hidden in the pages of
+old chronicles. Few even remember that owing to the untiring energy of
+this man Assisi owns one of the most beautiful monuments of mediæval
+art. It is possible that had Fra Leo, Bernard of Quintavalle and his
+companions succeeded in those first days of struggle, the Basilica of
+San Francesco might never have attained its present magnificence or
+the art of Giotto been born in this Umbrian corner of Italy. Chi lo
+sa? It is a question one hardly even likes to think of. But the danger
+passed away, and who cares now whether the franciscans grumbled at the
+time, or said the church and convent with its buttresses and towers
+looked more like the feudal fortress of some mighty baron than the
+tomb of the Preacher of Poverty? The San Francesco we love rises
+golden and rose-tinted above the olive groves and the vineyards, above
+the plain with its young corn and the white villages lying among the
+fruit-trees, above a rushing torrent which circles round the base of
+the Subasian mountain on its way to the Tiber; and all day the varied
+group of church, arcaded convent and terraced gardens, is showing its
+beauty to the sun.
+
+In every light it is beautiful, in every mood we recall it, together
+with the choicest things we have seen in travel, haunting us like the
+charm of a living person. When the winter mists at early morning wrap
+round it like a mantle, or the stars form crowns above its roof and
+bell tower, there is always some new loveliness which thrills us, some
+fresh note of colour we have not noticed there before, making us again
+and again feel grateful that Elias forgot or ignored the teaching of
+his master.
+
+  [Illustration: SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE PLAIN]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[59] In the same way when Beato Egidio, ill and nigh his end, wished
+to return to the Portiuncula to die in the place he loved so well, the
+Perugians refused their consent and even placed soldiers round the
+monastery of Monte Ripido to prevent his escape.
+
+[60] In the illustrations on p. 38 and p. 107 is shown the gallows
+erected where now stands the franciscan basilica, but it is unlikely
+that the property of a private individual should have been used for
+such a purpose, and Collis Inferni may simply have meant the spur of
+hill beneath the upper portion of Assisi upon which the castle stood.
+
+[61] See Vasari, _Life of Arnolfo di Lapo_.
+
+[62] It would be a thankless task to follow the bewildering maze of
+contradictory evidence which has enveloped the question as to who
+built San Francesco. Those who are eager to do so, however, can
+consult Henry Thode's exhaustive work, _Franz von Assisi_ (beginning
+p. 187), which deals most thoroughly with the subject. Leader Scott
+also, in her learned book upon _The Cathedral Builders_, gives some
+ingenious theories with regard to "Jacopo" and his supposed
+relationship with Arnolfo, p. 315-316.
+
+Another book is _I Maestri Comacini_, by Professore Marzario, whose
+statements about "Jacopo's" nationality are interesting and probable.
+But, following Vasari a little too blindly, he gives us the startling
+fact that "Jacopo" died in 1310, this, even supposing him to have been
+only twenty-five when he was at Assisi as chief architect, would make
+him one hundred and fifteen years of age at the time of his death.
+
+[63] _L'Architecture Gothique_ par M. Edouard Corroyer. See pp. 96 and
+105.
+
+[64] _Speculum Perfectionis._ Edited by Paul Sabatier, cap. x.
+
+[65] For the Latin text see p. c. of M. Paul Sabatier's introduction
+to his edition of the _Speculum Perfectionis_.
+
+[66] Giovanni Parenti, who does not stand out very clearly in the
+history of the Order, was a Florentine magistrate of Città di
+Castello, one of the first towns to feel the influence of St. Francis.
+There he heard of the new movement which so rapidly was spreading
+throughout Western Europe, and, together with many of the citizens,
+became converted through the teaching of the Umbrian saint.
+
+[67] It is impossible in this small book to give any idea of the
+various influences at work upon the young franciscan order during the
+life of the saint. I can only refer my readers to the charming pages
+of M. Paul Sabatier, who gives us a vivid picture of these early days
+in _La Vie de Saint François_, and in his introduction to the
+_Speculum Perfectionis_.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+_Cimabue and his School at San Francesco_
+
+   "Il semble au premier coup d'oeil que le rève de François
+   d'Assise a dû amener la fin de tout l'art et de toute noble vie.
+   Chose étrange! ce sordide mendiant fut le père de l'art
+   italien."--E. RENAN. _Nouvelles Études d'Histoire Religieuse._
+
+
+THE LOWER CHURCH
+
+So rarely in Italy is a church perfect both within and without that it
+is with amazement we find at Assisi not one but two churches, choir
+and nave piled above each other, and covered from roof to floor with
+frescoes, as perfect of their kind as the buildings which they
+decorate. Wars in every town, trouble, dissension and jealousies among
+men, raged like a storm over the land, but all this turmoil of a
+fevered age was unable to check the steady, rapid progress of at least
+this monument to a dead saint's memory; and we perceive yet another
+proof of the extraordinary influence of St. Francis, who was able by
+the devotion and admiration he excited, to inspire all with some of
+his own love of the beautiful, which has lasted in Italy, from the
+days of his ministry, through centuries of both faith and unbelief
+down to modern times. But from this arose a strange event; this lover
+of solitude, who during his life sought only for humiliation and
+obscurity and loved best the poor and deserted way-side sanctuaries,
+was laid to rest in one of the most beautiful Italian churches of that
+time.
+
+  [Illustration: THE LOWER CHURCH]
+
+While wandering through the Lower Church, marvelling at the delicate
+friezes of tiny heads, flowers and winged horses, which frame every
+fresco; at the great spreading arches--built for strength; the vaulted
+roof of deep azure blue with dull golden stars upon its surface,
+looming above the paintings and dimming their brilliancy by the
+shadows which lurk in its depth, we feel that within the shelter of
+its perpetual twilight this is a place to pray in. It is truly the
+home of St. Francis, and notwithstanding its richness and vast
+splendour his spirit is here, the certainty that he once had dwelt
+upon the earth is felt.
+
+Few ever stop to look at the walls of the nave, and indeed, upon
+coming out of the sunlight, the darkness and gloom for some minutes is
+oppressive and but little can be distinguished in the gloom. It was
+almost by chance that we one day noticed some frescoes, ruined and
+faded, just outside the Chapel of St. Martin. They are of no beauty as
+works of art, indeed they are rather ugly, but their interest lies in
+showing us that from the very beginning artists had endeavoured,
+however feebly, to depict the legend of St. Francis.[68] On the left
+wall of the nave, outside the Chapel of St. Martin, is a fresco
+representing the Sermon to the Birds with the same idea of composition
+which was adopted later by Giotto; the saint slightly bends towards
+the birds upon the ground, his companion stands behind, while the
+single tree adds a certain solemnity to the scene. The figures are
+large and ungainly, with feet terrible to behold, the lines are hard,
+and there is little feeling of movement or life; yet we look at it
+with reverence and hope, for we know that, with all the ugliness and
+stiffness of workmanship, the artist was vehemently striving in this
+dark church to shake off the hampering chains of worn-out traditions,
+and find for himself something nearer to the truth. And as we look at
+this one and at the next, representing St. Francis receiving the
+Stigmata, our thoughts are carried to other renderings of these
+scenes, and we say with light hearts: "After this poor craftsman comes
+Giotto, King of Tuscan painters."
+
+These are the only two frescoes illustrating the life of the saint,
+though there may have been others which were destroyed when the walls
+of the nave were broken down in order to form entrances to the
+chapels, added to the main building about 1300. But on the right side,
+beginning outside the Chapel of San Stefano, are parts of several
+scenes from the New Testament; a crowd of women and men standing round
+the cross, a group of women, the Descent from the Cross, a Pietà, a
+landscape with houses and a decoration of circular ornaments outside
+the Capella di Sta. Maria Maddalena, generally attributed to Giunta
+Pisano, thus giving them too early a date.[69]
+
+To us their interest seems rather to lie in that they plainly show how
+the earliest masters, whilst endeavouring to illustrate the franciscan
+legend, failed so completely to satisfy their employers that they were
+bidden to stay their hand and continue to paint the well-worn theme of
+the history of the world's redemption, which required less invention
+than the legend of St. Francis, where a new out-look on life had to be
+acquired. So the franciscans, failing to find a painter who could
+illustrate their founder's life to their satisfaction, contented
+themselves with other things, perhaps hoping that in course of time
+one might arise who could do justice to the theme. Well it was that
+they waited.
+
+Shortly after these frescoes had been completed in the Lower Church,
+art received a new impulse (one likes to think that the struggles of
+the first artist towards something better and more true to life had to
+do with this); others came, with Giotto at their head, and painted
+over some of these early efforts, leaving us only Cimabue's great
+Madonna, a few ruined frescoes, a Byzantine pattern, and stray touches
+of colour in dark corners of the church to remind us of these first
+decorators of San Francesco.
+
+We get a melancholy picture from Vasari of the depths to which art had
+sunk, and of the degenerate artists still following a worn-out
+tradition until it became as a dead thing in their hands deprived of
+all inspiration, when "in the year 1240, by the will of God, Giovanni
+Cimabue ... was born in the city of Florence to give the first light
+to the art of painting."
+
+Cimabue is rightly called the Father of Italian art, as he represented
+a new era among Italian masters who were awakening to their country's
+needs; when men, filled with strange restless energy, grew tired of
+the Byzantine Madonna with her court of stiff, lifeless saints, and
+looked for something in closer touch with their mood and aspirations.
+
+Round the name of Cimabue are grouped many charming legends belonging
+to a time when the people, anxious to possess the new thing their
+hearts craved for, looked eagerly and critically at an artist's work.
+There is the story of how when he had finished the picture of the
+Virgin Mary, the Florentines came to his workshop, and, expecting much
+from him, yet were amazed at the wonderful beauty of the grand
+Madonna, and carried the picture with rejoicing, to the sound of
+music, to the Church of Sta. Maria Novella, where it still hangs in
+the dark chapel of the Ruccellai; a street in Florence down which the
+picture passed being called Borgo Allegri, because of the gladness of
+that day. It is only a legend, and one that has been oft repeated, and
+as often doubted. Now the existence of Cimabue is even questioned by
+some, but whoever invented the story understood the great change which
+had come among the people and into art. It was only right that in the
+church of the saint who personified the feeling of the age, caught its
+spirit, and sent the impulse of the people even further, should centre
+all the first efforts towards this awakening and revival, until, step
+by step, the masterpieces of Giotto were reached. When we remember
+this, the large fresco of Cimabue in the right transept of the Lower
+Church becomes more full of beauty and meaning.[70] The great spirit
+of her presence fills the church, her majesty and nobility is that of
+the ideal Madonna, grave to sadness, thinking, as her eyes look
+steadily out upon the world, what future years would bring to the
+Child seated on her lap, who stretches out a baby hand to clasp her
+veil. All the angels round the throne sway towards her; in their heavy
+plaits of hair shines a dull red light, and in their wings and on the
+Madonna's gown are mauve and russet shades like the colours of
+autumnal oaks.... "To this day," says Mr Ruskin, "among all the Mater
+Dolorosas of Christianity, Cimabue's at Assisi is the noblest; nor did
+any painter after him add one link to the chain of thought with which
+he summed the creation of the earth, and preached its redemption."
+
+St. Francis has not been forgotten in this fresco, but Cimabue having
+given all his art to make the Virgin and her choir of angels
+beautiful, his figure is not quite one's idea of the ethereal Umbrian
+preacher, and his being there at all spoils the symmetry of the
+grouping. It is not improbable that the figure of St. Clare stood on
+the other side, and was erased when the Chapel of Sta. Maria Maddalena
+was built, and the ornamental border painted round this fresco, which
+cut off part of the wings of the two angels on the left of the Virgin.
+
+Vasari vaguely tells us of some frescoes from the lives of Jesus
+Christ and of St. Francis, painted by Cimabue in the Lower Church, and
+later writers have thought these must have been destroyed to make
+room for Giotto's work. If paintings were there at all they were more
+likely to have been the work of inferior artists, for it seems
+improbable that Giotto, coming to Assisi for the first time when he
+was quite a youth, should destroy any work of his master, who was
+still alive, in order to substitute his own early efforts.
+
+
+THE UPPER CHURCH
+
+Not only was the Upper Church essentially fitted for fresco painting,
+but it required an elaborate scheme of decoration, just as a setting,
+however perfect, needs a gem to complete it; and it almost seems as
+though "Jacopo" had stayed his hand, with the intention that here, at
+least, architecture should be subservient to wall decoration, and had
+foreseen the need of large spaces to be covered with paintings, as
+brightly coloured, as clear, and as closely set together as are the
+colours upon a butterfly's wings.
+
+"It was here, in the Upper Church of Assisi," says Mr Roger Fry, "that
+the Italian genius first attained to self-expression in the language
+of monumental painting, a language which no other European nation,
+except the Greeks, has ever mastered." But the question as to who were
+the predecessors of Giotto, and when exactly they came, can never, we
+think, be answered; for the time is not far off when these splendid
+ruins of early art will have totally faded away, or, what is
+infinitely worse, be covered with still thicker layers of paint than
+the "restorer" has already laid upon them.
+
+  [Illustration: LOOKING THROUGH THE DOORS OF THE UPPER CHURCH TOWARDS
+  THE PORTA S. GIACOMO AND THE CASTLE]
+
+Vasari finds no difficulty about the matter, declaring, to his own
+satisfaction and for the instruction of future generations, that every
+fresco in the apse and transepts, together with the series relating to
+the history of the Jews and the life of Christ, are by Cimabue. But
+then Cimabue was a Tuscan, and Vasari, the painter of Tuscan Arezzo,
+was determined to give as much glory to his fatherland as he could. We
+too would give all possible honour to Cimabue, but are bound to follow
+the opinion of later critics, who less prejudiced and hasty in their
+criticisms than Vasari, see the work of many hands in all these
+frescoes; so we have gathered together a few notes concerning them
+from various authorities to help the traveller to form his own ideas
+upon the subject. The theme is too endless to attempt in a small space
+to give more than a very brief summary of the chief facts.
+
+_Frescoes of the Choir and Transepts._--These may be divided into two
+distinct classes, those of the north transept, which are older and
+inferior to those of the south transept and choir. Herr Thode
+attributes their difference to the fact that while all are the work of
+Cimabue, the frescoes in the north transept were painted when he was
+quite young, while the rest belong to a later period, when he had
+attained his full powers. The Crucifixion of the north transept, one
+of the most ruined, reminds us somewhat of works by Margaritone which
+may be studied, without much pleasure, in most Italian galleries. The
+figures standing round the Cross are short, with small heads and large
+hands, and not even in the fainting Madonna is there the slightest
+charm. In the Martyrdom of St. Peter, on the next wall, it is curious
+to note the similarity of treatment to Giotto's fresco at Rome of the
+same subject. The Saint, head downwards upon the Cross without any
+group of people would have made but a dull composition; so both
+artists added an obelisk on either side to relieve the monotony of
+line.
+
+Then follows the scene of Simon Magus being borne upwards by demons
+with bat-like wings; and upon the next wall, beneath the triforium, is
+represented the death of Ananias and Sapphira, and St. Peter curing
+the lame before the Temple, where the figures are certainly more
+majestic and, according to Herr Thode, distinctly show the hand of
+Cimabue.
+
+Behind the papal throne are medallions of the friend and patron of
+St. Francis, Gregory IX, and of Innocent IV, who consecrated the
+Basilica. The frescoes represent the life of the Virgin, but they are
+all too faded to be enjoyed, save that of the Coronation on the right
+wall, just above the choir stalls; the Virgin is seated upon a wooden
+throne with Christ by her side and a group of apostles and spectators
+beneath. There is a striking resemblance in the drawing and form of
+the standing figures to those in the Crucifixion of the south
+transept. This, though very ruined and blackened in parts, showing no
+other trace of colour than a faint film of golden yellow, has still
+the power to make us feel that once, long ago, it was a fine work,
+worthy of a great master. Weeping angels fly above the Cross, some
+with outstretched hands, while others veil their eyes from the sight
+of the suffering Saviour; the Magdalen, her arms thrown up above her
+head, is seen in strong relief against the sky, and contrasting with
+this dramatic gesture, is the figure of the Virgin, erect and still,
+her hand clasped in that of St. John. The whole conception is
+dignified, replete with dramatic feeling of the nobler kind, and has
+been thought worthy, by Herr Thode, to be put down as the finest of
+Cimabue's creations.
+
+The remaining frescoes deal with scenes from the Apocalypse, but they
+are so ruined that it is a thankless task for any, except the student,
+to try and distinguish each separately. Indeed after a minute
+examination of so many ruined works of art, a certain sadness and
+weariness is felt, but if the pilgrim has time to rest awhile in a
+quiet corner of the stalls and look at choir and transepts solely for
+their colour, he will gain for himself many beautiful memories not
+easily forgotten. It is a vision of youthful saints, of men with
+lances hurrying down a rocky mountain side, of angels trumpeting to
+the four ends of the earth, and out of this medley of shadowy forms
+in fading frescoes, like sunlight breaking through a mist with golden
+light, loom the mighty angels of Cimabue. Their heads are crowned by a
+heavy mass of auburn hair, their wings slightly lifted, as though they
+were on earth but for a short space, and they seem as remote from
+mortals as the Sphynx herself in their dignity and calm repose. To
+Cimabue belongs the conception of such grave and strangely beautiful
+creations, winged messengers of strength, who come midway between the
+stiff Byzantine figures, and the swift-moving angels of Giotto and the
+cherub children forms of later Umbrian and Venetian schools.
+
+_The Nave._--All writers upon the subject agree that here the frescoes
+show no trace of Cimabue's style, but are from the hand of his
+contemporaries and pupils, who worked together in unfolding the
+history of the Jews and the world's redemption. If it is impossible to
+hint even at the names of these artists, the most hurried traveller
+must notice the different character which marks the legend of the New
+Testament from that of the Old, where the work of talented copyists of
+classical works of art differ from that of others who kept nearer to
+the style of Cimabue, instilling into it more or less life, as their
+individual powers permitted. Herein lies much of the history of early
+Italian art, but the few remaining frescoes, especially on the left
+wall, have been so terribly over-painted that the work of the critic
+is rendered well-nigh hopeless.
+
+Beginning at the right wall by the High Altar we have probably
+the work of a fine Byzantine master, or at least of one who must
+have copied a Greek masterpiece. In the Creation of the World,
+God, represented as a young man seated on a globe of fire, is,
+with a gesture of his hand, casting upon the earth his last
+creation--man--who, still suffused with celestial colour, is borne
+across the sea towards the land. A ram, a bull and a lion besport
+themselves upon the shore, enormous birds sit on the bushes, and the
+sea is already full of every kind of fish; slender pink clouds are in
+the sky, and the distant hills on the horizon have faded into shades
+of blue-green, like the landscape of an Umbrian picture.
+
+The nude figures of Adam and Eve in the Expulsion from Paradise are
+wonderfully good for the time, and the manner in which the angels are
+kicking them out of the garden of Eden is somewhat unusual.
+
+Beginning again at the first bay window but on the lower row of
+frescoes, in the Building of the Ark Noah is seated, an obelisk-shaped
+rock rising behind him, and gives his directions with a majestic air
+to his sons as to the sawing and placing of the great beams. A man,
+standing by his side, completes the composition, which has much
+dignity and finish.
+
+The fresco of the Sacrifice of Isaac, with Abraham raising his sword
+above him his body slightly thrown back, is perhaps one of the most
+striking of the series. The wind has caught his yellow robe, which
+unfurls itself against a landscape of sandy hills.
+
+All that remains of the next are three angels, whose grandeur can only
+be compared to those of Cimabue in the south transept. The remaining
+subjects on this side are by a different master, who followed closely
+the best classical traditions, and succeeds in giving extraordinary
+repose to his compositions as well as meaning to the various figures.
+
+In Jacob before Isaac, Isaac is waiting for his dish of venison, and
+Jacob's attitude denotes uncertainty as to the reception he is likely
+to receive, while his mother, lifting the curtain of her husband's
+bed, seems to encourage her son.
+
+The next fresco is similar in composition, but better preserved. Here
+we feel the blindness of Isaac, the perplexity of Esau, who cannot
+understand why his father refuses to bless him, and the fear of
+Rebecca, who has stepped back, knowing that her fraud must now be
+discovered. In this composition the artist has strictly kept to rules
+laid down by his predecessors, and the result, if a little stiff and
+wanting in originality, is yet pleasing and restful to look at,
+presenting a great contrast to the somewhat exaggerated movements
+expressed in the preceding ones.
+
+The last of the series is the steward finding the cup in Benjamin's
+sack, though greatly ruined it still shows much beauty of composition.
+
+Upon the opposite wall, by the altar, is depicted the life of Christ
+by followers of Cimabue, but the few frescoes that remain are so
+mutilated and repainted, that it is impossible to say much about them,
+or even to imagine what they may once have been.
+
+"In the Capture," writes Messrs Crowe and Cavacaselle, "the Saviour is
+of a superior size to the rest of those around him, and of a stern but
+serene bearing. Trivial conception marks the scene of the Saviour
+carrying the Cross."
+
+The Pietà, one of the last, is evidently by a finer scholar of
+Cimabue, and the woman coming round the rocks resembles slightly the
+figure of Rebecca in the two frescoes on the opposite side. "The
+composition," write the same authors, "is more like that which Giotto
+afterwards conceived than any other before or since"; but the colossal
+figure of Christ destroys the harmony of the scene.
+
+The arch at the end of the nave is painted to represent a series of
+niches, in each of which stands the figure of a saint, all are much
+repainted, as are the medallions of St. Peter and St. Paul by the
+door. The Descent of the Holy Spirit is greatly ruined, and in the
+Ascension the _intonaco_ has peeled off, showing the bricks, so that
+the apostles have the appearance of looking over a wall.
+
+The ceiling is frescoed in three different places by other masters,
+whose names have not come down to us. Between the transepts and nave
+the four Evangelists, seated outside the gates of towns, are so
+utterly ruined and blackened by time and damp that it is barely worth
+craning one's neck to look at them.[71] But the four medallions of
+Christ, the Madonna, St. John the Baptist and St. Francis, which
+ornament the centre of the nave, are among the most beautiful things
+in the church, and quite perfect as decoration. At each corner of the
+spandrels stands an angel upon a globe, with wings uplifted, delicate
+in outline and brilliantly coloured, while the whole is bordered by
+the most exquisite design of blossoms and green foliage rising out of
+slender vases, which mingle with cupids, angels, winged horses and
+rabbits on a dull red ground. It must have been painted by one who had
+learned his art from the same source whence the decorative painters of
+Pompeii drew their inspiration.
+
+It is not an easy thing to fit entire figures seated on large marble
+thrones into triangular spaces, and so the artist found, who in the
+groined ceiling nearest the door had to paint the Doctors of the
+Church, Sts. Jerome, Gregory, Ambrose and Augustin, dictating their
+epistles to busy clerks. But there is much that is charming in them,
+though as decoration they partly fail, and a resemblance may be found
+to the frescoes of Isaac and his sons, which seem to have influenced
+Giotto in his paintings of old men.
+
+Vasari's enthusiasm was roused when he looked upon these endless
+paintings, and he tells us that: "This work, truly grand and rich, and
+admirably well executed, must, I conceive, in those times have
+astonished the world, the more so that painting had for so long been
+sunk in such obscurity: and to me, who saw it once more in 1563, it
+appeared most beautiful, as I thought how Cimabue, in such darkness
+could have discovered so much light."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It would be well, before leaving, to look at the windows of the Upper
+Church, which are among the oldest in Italy, and, according to Herr
+Burckhardt, the most beautiful. As of most things connected with San
+Francesco, little is known about them; Vasari says they were designed
+by the painters of the frescoes; an opinion partly held by Herr Thode,
+who sees a great resemblance to the style of Cimabue in the right-hand
+window of the choir (the centre one is modern) with scenes from the
+lives of Abraham, David and Christ, of most beautiful colour and
+design. The left window, belonging to the same period, contains naïve
+scenes from the Old Testament, amongst which (the sixth from the top
+of the left half) is Jonah emerging from a blue-green whale the colour
+of the waves, and possessed of large white eyes.
+
+Those of the transepts of the same date are even finer and more
+beautifully coloured. Medallions of geometrical patterns of exquisite
+design and hue ornament the left-hand window of the north transept,
+while that on the right contains scenes from the Old Testament and the
+life of Christ; in both of these, according to Herr Thode, the
+influence of Cimabue is apparent.
+
+The left window of the south transept contains seven scenes from the
+Creation and seven from the lives of Adam and Eve, who (in the last
+two divisions of the right half) are being driven out of Eden, and,
+spade in hand, are working at the foot of a tree. The eight saints of
+the right window, seated majestically on gothic thrones ornamented
+with spires, and dressed in rose-coloured, red and green garments,
+have certainly the appearance of being, as Herr Thode suggests, of a
+style even anterior to Cimabue.
+
+Half of the bay window on the left, looking towards the altar, is the
+work of the Umbrian school of the time of Fiorenzo di Lorenzo (there
+is a Madonna in a blue mantle, and St. Onofrio clothed in
+vine-leaves), while the left half, with medallions composed of very
+small pieces of glass representing scenes from the early life of
+Christ, are perhaps the most beautiful, and certainly the oldest, in
+the church, and can even be compared to the stained glass of French
+cathedrals. The third window (the second has suffered considerably,
+and what is left of the original belongs to the fifteenth century) has
+been a good deal restored, but the large angels with blue and purple
+wings standing in an arch, behind which a little town is seen, are
+very fine, and below them is a curious small figure of St. Francis
+floating in front of a colossal Christ, belonging also to the
+fifteenth century.
+
+Very beautiful are the two saints beneath gothic arches in the last
+window, and the priests in their rose-coloured stoles, the bishops in
+crimson and gold, and the other figures of warriors and saints.
+
+The right half of the bay window near the door upon the opposite
+side, belonging also to the Umbrian school, contains some charming
+scenes from the life of St. Anthony, while on the left are incidents
+of the life of St. Francis. The whole is remarkable for delicate rose
+colours, greens and pale blues, and a total absence of the strong deep
+tones of the older and finer windows; but they are very beautiful of
+their kind, like patches of pale sunshine in the church.
+
+The next two windows betray a more ancient style in the fine figures
+of the apostles (their heads, alas, are modern), and in the scenes
+from their lives, which are of a deeper tone than the former one; but
+even more beautiful is the last window, which does not seem to have
+been restored within the last three centuries, and where the colours
+standing out from a creamy background are very lovely. The two large
+and grand figures of two apostles are believed by Herr Thode to be
+from drawings by Cimabue.
+
+Both Francesco di Terranuova and Valentino da Udine were employed to
+repair all the windows about 1476, large sums being expended,
+principally by the Popes who never ceased to patronise the franciscan
+Basilica. A most comical appearance is given by the distressing
+additions made in our own time of modern heads upon bodies of the
+thirteenth or fourteenth century. Until very lately an exquisite rose
+window was to be seen over the eastern door, now replaced by white
+glass; one would like to know how it so mysteriously disappeared and
+where it now is.
+
+No pains had been spared to make San Francesco as lovely in every
+detail as the brain of man could devise, and it is most remarkable how
+the frescoes belong to the general idea of the building as though
+every artist had thought as much of this unity as of the individual
+perfection of his work. The beautiful papal throne in the choir, of
+white marble encrusted in mosaic with its frieze of strange animals
+in low relief, its arms supported by red marble lions, is almost a
+replica of the Soldan's throne in Giotto's fresco, and was designed by
+Fuccio Fiorentino in 1347, when the architecture that Giotto delighted
+in was still the recognised style in Italy.[72] The marble and mosaic
+altar is of the same date, and the octagonal pulpit of sculptured
+stone, with saints in small tabernacles, spiral columns and designs of
+leaves slightly tinted, supposed also to be by Fuccio, is placed at
+the corner of the wall of the nave looking as if it had grown there.
+The columns supporting the arched gallery round the church have each
+been painted to represent mauve and rose-coloured marbles, and there
+is not a single space in all the building which has not been decorated
+to harmonise with the frescoes, giving a perfect sense of infinite
+completeness and beauty, to which time has added by mellowing
+everything into a pale orange colour--the colour of Assisi.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[68] It is difficult to say how free a hand the artists were allowed
+when called in to execute work for any church, but probably, in the
+case of San Francesco, they were obliged to illustrate precisely the
+scenes and events chosen by the friars, who in the case of the saint's
+legend would be very severe judges, requiring quite the best that the
+artist could produce.
+
+[69] Later documents of the convent speak of a crucifix painted in
+1236 by Giunta Pisano with a portrait of Brother Elias "taken from
+life" and the following inscription:
+
+     Frater Elias fieri fecit
+     Jesu Christe pie
+     Misere pecantis Helie
+     Giunta Pisanus me pinxit. A.D.M. MCCXXXVI.
+
+It hung from a beam in the Upper Church until 1624 when it suddenly
+disappeared, and it seems to have inspired Padre Angeli (author of the
+"Collis Paradisi") with the theory that Giunta Pisano was the first to
+paint in San Francesco, ascribing to him, as some have continued to
+do, the frescoes in the choir and transept of the Upper Church. Messrs
+Crowe and Cavacaselle say, on what authority it is impossible to
+discover, that the middle aisle of the Lower Church "seems to have
+been painted between 1225 and 1250," ignoring the fact that Pope
+Gregory only laid the foundation stone of the Basilica in 1228.
+Without trying to find such early dates for the history of art at
+Assisi, it appears to us quite wonderful enough that some fifty or
+sixty years after the ceremony of the consecration in 1253, Cimabue
+and his contemporaries--Giotto and his Tuscan followers--had completed
+their work in both churches.
+
+[70] _Right_ transept is always synonymous with _South_ transept, but
+in this case, as San Francesco is built with the altar facing to the
+west because it was necessary to have the entrance away from the
+precipitous side of the hill, the _Right_ transept looks to the
+_North_, the _Left_ to the _South_, and we have thought it easier to
+keep to the actual position of the church in describing the different
+frescoes. Herr Thode in his book has done this, but it may be well to
+observe that Messrs Crowe and Cavacaselle refer to the transepts and
+chapels as if they faced the parts of the compass in the usual way.
+
+[71] To facilitate seeing the paintings of the ceiling, both here and
+in the Lower Church, it would be well to use a hand-glass, a simple
+and most effectual addition to the comfort of the traveller.
+
+[72] Mr Ruskin says that the gable of the bishop's throne is "of the
+exact period when the mosaic workers of the thirteenth century at Rome
+adopted rudely the masonry of the north. Briefly this is a Greek
+temple pediment, in which, doubtful of their power to carve figures
+beautiful enough, they cut a trefoiled hold for ornament, and bordered
+the edge with a harlequinade of mosaic. They then call to their aid
+the Greek sea waves, and let the surf of the Ægean climb along the
+slopes, and toss itself at the top into a fleur-de-lys."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+_The Paintings of Giotto and his School in the Lower Church_
+
+             "... Cimabue thought
+     To lord it over painting's field; and now
+     The cry is Giotto's, and his name eclipsed."
+       DANTE, _Purgatory_, xi., Cary's translation.
+
+
+The work of Cimabue, grand and noble as it is, yet gives the
+impression of belonging to remote times, between which and that of
+Giotto, his pupil, a great gulf is set. In both churches at Assisi we
+pass from the early efforts of an awakening age to the work of one,
+who, if not the first to see the light, was the first to discover the
+true principles of art, to give it life, and to found a school whence
+a long series of painters came to carry on for generations the lessons
+he had taught. Cimabue did wonders for the century in which he lived;
+of Giotto, even granting that his drawing was sometimes faulty, and
+the types of faces he painted were not always beautiful, it would be
+an insult to express such condescending praise; and even a hasty study
+of his frescoes in San Francesco must soon explain the everlasting
+sway he holds, now, as in those first years when his work seemed
+little short of miraculous to the wondering Florentines.
+
+  [Illustration: PLAN OF THE LOWER CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF SAN FRANCESCO
+  AT ASSISI]
+
+Some fourteen miles to the north of Florence, among the hills of the
+Mugello, lies the scattered hamlet of Vespignano where Giotto Bondone
+was born of a poor peasant family in the year 1265. Even at an
+early age, Vasari says, the boy was remarkable for the vivacity and
+quick intelligence which endeared him not only to his parents, but to
+all who knew him in the village and country round. He passed his
+childhood among them, knowing nothing of the city just across the
+hills, but learning much, during the long days while he wandered forth
+to tend his father's sheep, which was helpful to him in after years to
+preserve his straightforward outlook upon life and the strength and
+freshness of a nature that loved the sunburnt valleys and the freedom
+of the shepherd's existence.
+
+When Giotto was ten years old it happened that Cimabue, on his way
+from Florence to Vespignano upon a matter of business, found him
+seated by the roadside, his flock gathered near, busily employed in
+drawing the outline of a sheep from life upon a smooth piece of rock.
+Struck by the boy's industry in the pursuit of art and his evident
+cleverness, Cimabue hastened to obtain the father's consent to adopt
+and make an artist of him. Leaving the old life in the peasant's
+cottage for ever, Giotto now turned south along new roads, and with
+Cimabue by his side, saw for the first time the city of Florence,
+beautiful as she lay upon the banks of the Arno in a setting of wooded
+hills.
+
+The progress he made under Cimabue's guidance, who taught him all he
+knew, was marvellous indeed. At ten years of age a shepherd tracing
+idle fancies on the stones, then for a few years an apprentice in a
+Florentine workshop grinding colours with the others for his master's
+big Madonnas; while ten years later he had already gained the title of
+Master and was a famous painter, courted by popes and kings, and
+leaving masterpieces upon the walls of churches throughout Italy,
+that people of all times and countries have come and paused awhile to
+see.
+
+Let us suppose it was the air of Florence, which, according to Vasari,
+"generates a desire for glory and honour and gives a natural quickness
+to the perceptions of men," that made Giotto a perfect Florentine,
+alert, witty, and ever ready with a caustic repartee to anyone who
+bandied words with him. But though other influences were at work
+around him, and new images crowded upon his active brain, he kept
+undimmed the vision of his mountain valley, of the fields, of the days
+spent in his native village, and, with the eyes of a shepherd he
+continued to look on all the incidents of human life; he saw the
+grandeur, the tragedy, the weaknesses, aye, and the humour too, in
+everything that surrounded him, setting it all down in his frescoes in
+his own simple and original way. In a few words Mr Ruskin has touched
+upon the keynotes of Giotto's character when he says: ... "his mind
+was one of the most healthy, kind and active that ever informed a
+human frame. His love of beauty was entirely free from weakness; his
+love of truth untinged by severity; his industry constant without
+impatience; his workmanship accurate without formalism; his temper
+serene and yet playful; his imagination exhaustive without
+extravagance; and his faith firm without superstition. I do not know,
+in the annals of art, such another example of happy, practical,
+unerring, and benevolent power."
+
+Such was the man who came to Assisi to take up the work left
+uncompleted by Cimabue and his contemporaries. Giotto was then almost
+unknown, not having executed any of those great works upon which his
+fame now rests, and it is not unlikely that the recommendation by
+Cimabue of his promising pupil to the friars of San Francesco led to
+his being called there when barely twenty years of age.[73] Opinions
+differ as to which were his first works and whether he began in the
+Lower or in the Upper Church, and as there are absolutely no documents
+relating to the subject, and Vasari is of no help in the matter of
+dates or precise details, the only way to come to any conclusion is to
+group these frescoes according to their style. We do not wish to force
+any arbitrary opinions on this matter, and have simply placed Giotto's
+work in the order that it seems to us more likely to have been
+executed. Those who disagree have only to transpose the chapters as
+they think fit. The chief thing is to enjoy the frescoes and speculate
+as little as possible on all the contradictory volumes written about
+them.
+
+_Right Transept._--According to Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle these
+frescoes are by Giotto, and Mr Bernhard Berenson is of the opinion
+that they belong to his early period, and were executed by him before
+the franciscans knew what his powers were, and whether they could
+entrust to him the more difficult task of illustrating the legend of
+St. Francis. The subjects are taken from the early life of Christ
+which had been depicted many times in preceding centuries, but
+although Giotto attempted no very elaborate or original manner of
+treatment, his style was rapidly developing, and we have in some of
+the scenes little traits of nature which only belong to him. On the
+outside of the Chapel del Sacramento, over the arch, he painted the
+Annunciation with such charm, dignity and harmony of outline that it
+would be difficult to find a more perfect conception of religious
+feeling even among the pictures of Angelico. Unfortunately it can only
+be seen in the early afternoon when the light comes in through the
+windows of S. Giovanni; the Madonna rising with queenly grace and the
+angel hastening forward with his message then stand out from their
+dark background like living people, and show how, from the first,
+Giotto attained the power of giving vitality to his figures. His
+Madonna is not like a graven image to be worshipped from afar; she is
+essentially the earthly mother of the Saviour, and Giotto, while
+treating her story with dignity and a certain sense of remoteness,
+tells it by the simplest means, endowing her with the maternal
+tenderness of a young peasant girl whom we meet upon the roads
+carrying her child to lay beneath the shadow of a tree while she goes
+to her work in the fields close by.
+
+  [Illustration: CHOIR AND TRANSEPTS OF THE LOWER CHURCH]
+
+The Visitation (on the same wall as Cimabue's Madonna) is one of those
+frescoes that we remember like a scene we have witnessed, so naturally
+does the Virgin move forward, followed by a group of handmaidens, and
+hold out her arms to greet Elizabeth who is bending with such
+reverence to salute her cousin. They stand at the entrance of a dainty
+house inlaid with mosaic which is set among the bare rocks with only a
+stunted tree here and there. But Giotto does not forget to place a
+flowering plant in the balcony just as the peasants have always done
+in his mountain home.
+
+It is interesting to compare the next fresco of the Nativity with the
+same subject in the Upper Church, treated by a follower of Cimabue
+where the same idea is depicted, but with what a difference. Though
+two episodes are placed in one picture, Giotto succeeds in giving a
+harmonious composition, which, if a little stiff and over symmetrical,
+is full of charm and beauty. The angels singing to the new-born Infant
+and those apprising the shepherds of the news hover like a flight of
+birds above the barn. They are in truth the winged spirits of the air,
+"birds of God" Dante calls them, and thus Giotto paints them. As
+though to accentuate the sadness and poverty of Christ's birthplace,
+the barn, all open and exposed to the night breezes, is laid in a
+lonely landscape with a high rock rising behind it. Beyond in the
+valley, a leafless tree grows upon the bank of a calm stream where the
+heavenly light from the angels is seen to play like moonbeams in its
+waters.
+
+Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle hold that the Visit of the Magi was
+"never painted with more feeling, more naturally or beautifully
+composed than here"; and Giotto must have felt he could add little to
+the perfection of the scene when in later years he painted the same
+subject at Padua. All interest is centred on the Child, who, bending
+forward from the Virgin's arms, lays a tiny hand in blessing upon the
+head of the aged king. Curiously enough St. Joseph has been forgotten,
+and instead an angel stands upon either side to receive the offerings
+of the Magi.
+
+But to us the Purification seems even more beautiful in sentiment,
+composition and the perfection of religious feeling. Giotto was the
+first to conceive the idea of the Infant Jesus turning from Simeon
+towards the Virgin Mary as if anxious to come back to her, while she
+holds out her arms to invite him with a naïve attitude of gentle
+motherhood.
+
+From charming frescoes like these we come to the grand and powerful
+scene of the Crucifixion. Every figure tells a different tale of
+sorrow; of tender pity, as in the group of women round the fainting
+Virgin; of wonder that Christ should be allowed to suffer, as in the
+gesture of the woman with arms thrown back and St. John who wrings his
+hands almost fiercely; of sympathy expressed by the Magdalene, as she
+kisses the pierced feet; and of hope and prayer, in the kneeling
+figures of St. Francis and his brethren. Even more vehement in their
+grief are the angels, who rending their garments fly away with arms
+stretched out as if unable to bear the sight of so much pain. How
+rapidly they turn and circle in the air; they are not borne along by
+the winds, but trusting to their wings they rise with the swift, sure
+flight of a swallow.[74]
+
+Upon the opposite wall the early life of the Virgin is continued with
+the Flight into Egypt, which bears a strong resemblance to the fresco
+at Padua. There is the same sense that St. Joseph, his bundle slung on
+a stick over his shoulder like a pilgrim, is really walking along and
+in a moment must disappear from sight; a palm tree bends sideways to
+the breeze, and above two angels seem to cleave the air as they
+hurriedly lead on the travellers to exile and safety. Only the Virgin
+sits calm and unruffled. In the Massacre of the Innocents Giotto has
+happily not painted the full horror of the scene, but has aimed rather
+at suggesting the tragedy than at giving its actual representation.
+Very beautiful are the women to the left mourning for their dead
+children. One rocks her child in her arms and tries to awaken him with
+her kisses, whilst another raises her hands in despair as she gazes
+upon the dead child upon her knees.
+
+The Return of the Holy Family from Egypt, though only showing a group
+of houses within surrounding walls and a gateway and a group of
+people, suggests better than a more complicated composition would have
+done the scene of a home-coming after long absence.
+
+The Preaching of the Child in the Temple completes the series, and
+like the one at Padua, it is the least interesting of Giotto's
+paintings.
+
+There are three other frescoes in the Transept which most people, with
+reason, attribute to Giotto, representing miracles of St. Francis.
+The first refers to a child of the Spini family of Florence who fell
+from a tower of the Palazzo Spini (now Feroni), and was being carried
+to the grave, when the intercession of St. Francis was invoked and he
+appeared among them to restore the child to life. Part of the fresco
+has been lost owing to the ruthless way in which the walls were cut
+into for the purpose of erecting an organ--a barbarous act difficult
+to understand. But the principal group of people are seen outside an
+exquisite basilica of marble and mosaic, and each figure can be
+studied with pleasure as they have not been mutilated by the
+"restorer's" usual layers of thick paint. Seldom has Giotto painted
+lovelier women than those kneeling in the foreground, their profiles
+of delicate and pure outline recalling a border of white flowers. Near
+them is a figure bearing so strong a resemblance to Dante, that we
+would fain believe that Giotto meant to represent the type of a true
+Florentine in a portrait of the poet. Above the staircase is a fine
+picture of St. Francis resting his hand upon the shoulder of a crowned
+skeleton "in which," says Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle, "a much
+deeper study of anatomy is revealed than has ever been conceded to
+Giotto." The oval face of the saint, with clear brown colouring, is
+very beautiful, strongly resembling the St. Francis in glory in the
+fresco above the high altar. By him also is the half-length figure of
+Christ in the vaulting of the window.
+
+Although the two remaining frescoes deal with the death and
+resurrection of a child, they probably have nothing to do with the
+Spini miracle; the one where the dead child is lying in the arms of
+two men has unfortunately been so repainted as to take all character
+away from the faces, and we can only admire the general grouping, the
+fine gestures of the weeping women, and the grand modelling of the
+figures. Only a great artist could make one feel, by such simple
+means, the strain of the dead weight upon the men's arms. The man to
+the left (the second from the one holding his finger to his chin) is
+believed to be the portrait of Giotto; if it is, the painter has not
+flattered himself, and we can believe Dante's tale that he was
+remarkably ugly, and had six hideous children. On the other side of
+the arch the legend continues; a procession of white-robed monks and
+sorrowing friends approach the house to which the child has been
+taken, but in the meantime St. Francis has called him back to life,
+and a man, evidently in great excitement over the miracle, is hurrying
+down the steps to announce what has occurred. The story is so well and
+simply told that, although we have failed to find any account of it,
+it is easy to understand the sequence of the two frescoes, and the
+events they relate.
+
+_Allegories by Giotto in the ceiling over the High Altar._--The task
+was now given to Giotto to depict by the medium of allegory the three
+virtues of the franciscan order and St. Francis in glory. These
+virtues, the rocks upon which the franciscan order was so securely
+founded, had been preached by St. Francis to the people of Italy with
+the extraordinary results we have seen, and now Giotto came to take up
+the theme and, by means of his immortal art, perpetuate it as long as
+the great basilica lasts, and pilgrims come to pray and read upon the
+walls, in a language even the unlettered can understand, the lessons
+taught by the Umbrian preacher seven centuries ago. Apart from the
+fact of his genius, it was a fortunate thing that he should have been
+chosen for the task. A man of weaker and more impressionable
+temperament might have been led into such exaggerations of feeling and
+sentiment as we find in the Lorenzetti frescoes of the transept.
+Giotto came not many years after the Flagellants, roaming in hordes
+through the land calling for mercy and beating their half-naked bodies
+with leathern thongs, had spread a spirit of fanaticism which
+threatened to destroy the healthy influence of the teaching of St.
+Francis. But the mountain-born painter, impervious to such influences,
+kept his faith pure amidst the turmoil and unrest; and much as he
+admired the saint (it is said he belonged to the Third order), he
+looked upon his teaching from the practical point of view and was by
+no means carried away by the poetical manner in which it had been
+presented to the people. Nothing shows the mind and character of
+Giotto so plainly as some lines he wrote on poverty, most likely after
+painting his famous Allegories when he had an opportunity to observe
+how little the manners and customs of mediæval monks corresponded with
+the spirit of their founder. Every line of the poem is full of common
+sense and knowledge of human frailty. Many, Giotto remarks somewhat
+sarcastically, praise poverty; but he does not himself recommend it as
+virtue is seldom co-existent with extremes; and voluntary poverty,
+upon which he touches in a few caustic lines, is the cause of many
+ills, and rarely brings peace to those who have chosen her as a mate
+and who too often study how to avoid her company; thus it happens that
+under the false mantle of the gentlest of lambs appears the fiercest
+wolf, and by such hypocrisy is the world corrupted.[75]
+
+  [Illustration: THE MARRIAGE OF ST. FRANCIS WITH POVERTY
+  (D. ANDERSON--_photo_)]
+
+Giotto, an artist before he was a moralist, undertook to carry out the
+wishes of his patrons, and thought only how he could best fill the
+triangular spaces of the ceiling with the figures of saints and
+angels. It was by no means an easy task, but Giotto succeeded so well
+that these four frescoes are reckoned among his masterpieces and
+the wonders of the thirteenth century. They certainly show a marked
+advance upon the earlier works in the Transept, but they lack the
+power and assurance of those in the Upper Church, where the youthful
+painter all but reached the zenith of his fame.
+
+_The Marriage of St. Francis and Poverty._[76]--In this fresco Giotto
+has represented three incidents, but just as they all refer to one
+subject, so do the figures form a perfect harmony, faultless as
+decoration and beautiful as a picture. A youth, imitating the charity
+of St. Francis to whom his guardian angel is pointing, is seen on the
+left giving his cloak to a beggar, while upon the other side, a miser
+clutching his money-bag and a youth with a falcon on his gloved hand
+refuse to listen to the good suggestions of an angel and of the friar
+who stands between them. The lines of decoration are further carried
+out by the two angels who fly up carrying a temple with an enclosed
+garden, perhaps symbolising Charity, and a franciscan habit, which may
+be the symbol of Obedience. But these are details and the eye does not
+rest upon them, but rather is carried straight into the midst of a
+court of attendant angels where Christ, standing upon a rock, gives
+the hand of St. Francis to the Lady Poverty, who slightly draws away
+as if in warning of the hardships and disillusions in store for him
+who links his life with hers. Cold and white, her garments torn by a
+network of accacia thorns, she is indeed the true widow of Christ,
+who, after His death as Dante says,
+
+                   "... slighted and obscure
+     Thousand and hundred years and more, remain'd
+       Without a single suitor, till he came."[77]
+
+The bridesmaids, Hope pointing to the sky, and Charity holding a heart
+and crowned with flowers that start into tiny flames, come floating
+out of the choir of angels towards the pale bride whose veil is
+bounded only by her hair. Heedless of the children of earth, who
+encouraged by the barking of a dog, press the thorns still deeper into
+her flesh, she gazes at St. Francis, and shows him the pink and white
+roses of paradise and the Madonna lilies which are flowering behind
+her wings.
+
+_Chastity._--The different stages of perfection in the religious life
+are portrayed in this allegory. To the left St. Francis welcomes three
+aspirants to the order--Bernard of Quintavalle--typifying the
+franciscans; St. Clare--the Second Order; and one, who is said to be
+the poet Dante, in the near foreground in a florentine dress of the
+period--the Third Order. Two angels in the central group impose hands
+and pour the purifying water upon the head of a youth standing naked
+in a font, and two other angels bend forward with the franciscan
+habits in their hands, while leaning over the wall of the fortress are
+two figures, one presenting the banner of purity the other the shield
+of fortitude to the novice. On either side stands a grey-bearded,
+mail-clad warrior, lash and shield in hand to denote the perpetual
+warfare and self-mortification of those who follow St. Francis. To the
+right three youthful warrior-monks, beautiful of feature, bearing the
+signs of the Passion in their hands, aided by one in the garb of a
+Penitent with angels' wings, are chasing away the tempting spirits of
+the flesh from the rocks about the fortress into the abyss below. The
+winged boar falls backwards, followed by a demon and a winged skeleton
+emblematic of the perpetual death of the wicked, while poor
+blindfolded Love writhes beneath the lash of Penitence. But just as he
+is about to spring down with the rest, his string of human hearts
+still slung across his shoulders, he snatches up a sprig of roses from
+the rocks.
+
+Above, out of a walled enclosure guarded at each end by towers like
+every mediæval castle on the hills about Italian towns, rises a
+crenulated fortress. At the open window of the magnificent central
+tower is seen Chastity, veiled and in prayer as if unconscious of the
+scene below, her vigilance typified by the bell o'erhead. She appears
+to be reading, by the light of a taper, from the open book held before
+her by an angel, while another is bringing her the palm of sanctity.
+They are no longer Giotto's bird-like creations, but stately
+messengers with splendid human forms uplifted by outstretched wings
+their garments brought into long curved lines by the rapidity of their
+flight.
+
+_Obedience._--Under an open _loggia_ sits the winged figure of
+Obedience in the habit of a franciscan, holding his finger to his lips
+as he places a wooden yoke (symbol of obedience) upon the neck of a
+kneeling friar. Prudence, with double face, holding a glass mirror and
+a compass, and Humility, with her lighted taper to illumine the path
+to paradise, are seated on either side, perhaps to show that he who
+imposes obedience upon others must be prudent and humble himself. An
+angel upon the right is pointing these virtues out to a centaur
+(symbolizing pride, envy and avarice), who, thrown back upon his
+haunches by a ray of light from the mirror of Prudence, is thus
+stopped from tempting away the young novice kneeling on the opposite
+side, encouraged in his act of renunciation by the angel who holds him
+firmly by the wrist. Two divine hands appear from the clouds above and
+are holding St. Francis by his yoke, while two angels unroll the rules
+of his order.
+
+_The Glory of St. Francis._--The throng of fair-haired angels, seem,
+as they move towards the throne of the saint and press around it, to
+be intoning a hymn of perpetual praise and jubilation. Their figures,
+against the dull gold background, are seen white and strong, with here
+and there a touch of mauve or pale blue in their garments bringing out
+more distinctly the feeling of light and joyousness. The perpetual
+movement of the heavenly choir, some blowing long trumpets, others
+playing on flutes and tambourines, while many gaze upwards in silent
+prayer as they float upon the clouds, contrasts strangely with the
+stiff and silent figure of St. Francis, who in his robe of gold and
+black brocade, a brilliant light behind him, looks like some
+marvellous eastern deity, recalling Dante's words of how he
+
+                           "... arose
+     A sun upon the world, as duly this
+     From Ganges doth: ..."
+
+In the dimness of the cave-like church built to serve the purpose of a
+tomb and keep men's ideas familiar with the thought of death, these
+frescoes are glimpses into the heaven of the blest. Watch them at all
+hours of the day and there will be some new wonder to be noted, a face
+among the crowd which seems fairer than the rest, or, as the sunshine
+moves across, a flash of colours in an angel's wing like the sudden
+coming of a rainbow in a cloudy sky. And who shall forget the strange
+play of fancy as the candle light, during an afternoon service,
+mingles with the strong sunshine upon the white figures of saints and
+the whiter figure of the Lady Poverty, who appear to move towards us
+from amidst a blaze of golden clouds, until gradually as the evening
+closes in and the candles go out one by one, they are set once more in
+the shadow of their backgrounds like so many images of snow.
+
+_La Capella del Sacramento, or the Chapel of St. Nicholas._--Giotto
+left one scholar at Assisi whose work it is easy to discover, but who,
+as far as name and personality are concerned, is unknown, and shares
+in the general mystery which surrounds both the builders and painters
+of San Francesco. All we know is that he followed his master's style
+and great laws of composition even more closely than Taddeo Gaddi, and
+that he possessed much charm and originality. By the kind help of Mr
+Bernhard Berenson we have been able to group together some of the
+works of this interesting artist, who was evidently working at Assisi
+between 1300 and 1310 when he executed the last nine frescoes of the
+Upper Church illustrating the death and the miracles of St. Francis,
+decorated the Capella del Sacramento in the Lower Church with the
+legend of St. Nicholas, and painted a fine Crucifixion in the
+Confraternity of San Rufinuccio (see chap. x). There is a very
+delightful panel picture also by him in the corridor of the Uffizzi
+(No. 20 in the corridor), with eight small scenes from the life of St.
+Cecilia.
+
+In a fresco over the arch on the inside of the Capella del Sacramento
+are portraits of the donors of the chapel, Cardinal Napoleone Orsini,
+who is being presented to Christ by St. Francis, and his younger
+brother Giovanni (below him is written Dñs Joñs Gaetanus frater ejus),
+presented by St. Nicholas. It helps to date the decoration of the
+chapel, for we know that Giovanni Orsini received the cardinal's hat
+in 1316, while here he is represented in the white dress of a deacon
+confirming the general opinion that these frescoes must have been
+painted before that date.[78]
+
+St. Nicholas of Myra, generally known as St. Nicholas of Bari, both
+during his life and after his death was forever coming to the
+assistance of the oppressed; he did not even object to be the patron
+saint of drunkards and thieves, as well as of maiden virtue. He can
+easily be recognised in art by the three purses or golden balls which
+are always placed at his feet, in reference to the first kind action
+he performed when a wealthy young noble. This incident is charmingly
+recorded in the chapel upon the right wall near the entrance. Three
+sleeping maidens are lying by their father's side, and St. Nicholas,
+who has heard of their poverty, throws in three bags of gold as he
+passes by the open window. This charitable deed has made him a famous
+saint; when Dante is in Purgatory he hears the spirit of Hugh Capet
+recounting various acts of virtuous poverty and generosity, among
+which
+
+                   "... it spake the gift
+     Of Nicholas, which on the maidens he
+     Bounteous bestow'd, to save their youthful prime
+     Unblemish'd...."
+
+Below (the picture immediately beneath is entirely obliterated) is a
+very beautiful composition, recalling the same artist's treatment of
+St. Clare and her nuns in the Upper Church. In front of a Gothic
+chapel of white and black marble stands St. Nicholas, between two
+placid and portly friars, listening to the petition of a despairing
+father who implores his protection for his three sons, unjustly
+condemned to death by a wicked consul. The figures of the prisoners,
+with halters round their necks, followed by sympathising friends, are
+full of movement and life; St. Nicholas is particularly charming,
+dressed in his episcopal robes, slightly bending forward and listening
+attentively to the doleful tale.[79]
+
+The legend is continued upon the opposite side, where he arrives just
+in time to save the youths. The figure of the kneeling victim
+expecting the blow every moment to fall upon his neck and the majestic
+attitude of the saint in the act of seizing the sword, are finely
+rendered, but Giotto would hardly have approved of the complicated
+building decked with much superfluous decoration which is supposed to
+represent the city gate.
+
+The fresco below relates a vision of the Emperor Constantine who had
+ordered his three generals, unjustly accused of treason, to be put to
+death. St. Nicholas appears and commands him to release the prisoners,
+who are in a wooden cage by the bed.
+
+High up in the lunette of this wall is an interesting fresco referring
+to a humorous incident of one of the saint's miracles. It appears that
+a Jew, hearing that St. Nicholas gave special protection to property,
+placed a statue of him in his house; but it must be remembered that
+St. Nicholas was also the patron of thieves, and one day all the Jew's
+possessions disappeared. Enraged by the failure of his plan he
+administered a sound thrashing to the statue, which stands in a
+beautiful niche with spiral columns, behaving much in the same way as
+the childish sons of faith in Southern Italy who turn the Madonna's
+picture to the wall when their prayers have not been effectual. In
+this case St. Nicholas was so deeply offended that he appeared in a
+vision to the thieves, who kindly restored the goods of the irate Jew.
+There are dim remains of frescoes on this wall, but it is impossible
+to make out what they represent. Other wonderful miracles are related
+upon the opposite side, beginning high up in the lunette, where, with
+some difficulty, we distinguished St. Nicholas restoring a child to
+life who has been taken from his parents and killed by evil spirits.
+Below is a scene in a banqueting hall, where a king, seated at table,
+takes a goblet of wine from the hand of a slave boy. St. Nicholas, in
+full episcopals, performs one of his many ærial flights, lays his hand
+upon the boy's head and carries him back to his parents. In the scene
+beneath St. Nicholas is restoring to his people another youth, who, it
+seems, was nearly drowned while filling a goblet with water for the
+altar of St. Nicholas; or it may be the continuation of the preceding
+legend, and show the home-coming of the captive boy from the king's
+palace. It is one of the most charmingly rendered of the series; the
+impetuous action of the mother rising with outstretched arms to
+welcome her son, and the calm dignity of the father's embrace, are
+almost worthy of Giotto himself. A small dog bounds forward to add his
+welcome to the others, while St. Nicholas surveys the scene with great
+gravity, every line of his figure denoting dignity, power and repose.
+
+On one side of the arched entrance to the chapel is a fresco of St.
+Mary Magdalen, on the opposite side is St. John the Baptist, and in
+the vaulting of the arch, on the right, are St. Anthony of Padua with
+St. Francis; St. Albino with St. George; St. Agnes holding a lamb,
+perhaps the most graceful of the figures, with St. Cecilia crowned
+with roses. Opposite are St. Rufino and St. Nicholas holding a book;
+St. Sabino and St. Vittorino, both Assisan martyrs; and St. Claire
+with St. Catherine of Alexandria. But the quality of this artist will
+be only half realised if the single figures of the apostles on the
+walls below the scenes from the life of Nicholas are overlooked. Very
+grave and reposeful they lend an air of great solemnity to the chapel,
+and as Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle remark, they are "after those of
+Giotto in the Ciborium of Rome, the most admirable that were produced
+in the early times of the revival...."
+
+It is as difficult to explain why the Chapel of St. Nicholas possesses
+so much charm, as it is to understand why people seldom spend more
+than sufficient time to read the few lines in their guide-book about
+it and verify for themselves that the frescoes are there; but perhaps
+when some fifty frescoes by Giotto have to be realised in about an
+hour, which is the time usually devoted to them by the visitor to
+Assisi, it is not surprising that Giotto's follower, the closest and
+the best he ever had, should be neglected.
+
+The stained glass windows, remarkable rather for their harmony than
+for their depth of tone, belong also to the early part of the
+fourteenth century, and are decorated with the Orsini arms. On the
+left side of the central window is a charming design of St. Francis in
+a rose-coloured mantle, recommending to Christ the young Giovanni
+Gaetano Orsini, who is said to be buried in the chapel. His monument
+behind the altar, erected soon after his death in 1347, is, according
+to Vasari, the work of Agostino da Siena, a pupil of Giovanni Pisano.
+Very calm and youthful-looking the Cardinal lies at full length in
+long folded robes while two angels guard his slumbers.
+
+There is yet another treasure in St. Nicholas' Chapel; a lovely
+picture on panel of the Virgin and saints (rather difficult to see as
+it is against the light over the altar), by a Sienese artist who
+possesses some of Simone Martini's talent of depicting ethereal and
+serene Madonnas.
+
+_The Chapel of St. Maria Maddalena._--According to a legend given by
+Padre Angeli the chapel was built and consecrated by St. Bonaventure
+while General of the franciscan order towards the end of the
+thirteenth century. The three frescoes on the left wall certainly
+belong to Giotto's time, and if not actually painted by him they
+appear to be from his designs, and not merely copies of the Paduan
+frescoes which they resemble. Above the frescoes of the Raising of
+Lazarus and the Anointing of Christ's feet is the Communion of the
+Magdalen, rendered with such simplicity yet with so much religious
+feeling and solemnity that we realise it is indeed the last communion
+of the saint on earth. The attitude of the priest, the splendid
+drapery of the man in orange-coloured garments, and the way in which
+the figure of the saint being carried by angels to heaven completes
+the composition, bear unmistakably the impress of Giotto's style
+before the Paduan period (1206).
+
+The "Noli mi Tangere" upon the opposite wall may also have been
+designed by him, but the type of the faces are heavier than his, and
+the angels are no longer swift spirits of the heavens ending in flame
+and cloud.
+
+The painter, as if wishing to remind the faithful of the new life
+symbolised in the resurrection of Christ, has covered the rocks and
+ground with flowering rosebushes and exquisitely designed tufts of
+ferns and leaves.
+
+The story of the Prince and Princess of Marseilles is a favourite
+subject with the Giottesque school. The legend tells that when Mary
+Magdalen arrived at Marseilles with Lazarus and Martha, she met a
+prince and his wife who were praying to the gods for a son, and she
+persuaded them to pray instead to the God of the Christians. Their
+desire was granted, and they were converted, but evidently being of a
+cautious turn of mind, they resolved to sail at once for Jerusalem and
+find out if St. Peter's teaching agreed with that of the Magdalen. On
+the way a terrible storm arose, and during the tempest the princess
+gave birth to a son, and died. The sailors insisted that her body must
+be thrown overboard or the storm, they said, would not abate; at last
+the prince was forced to lay the body of his wife upon a rocky island
+in the midst of the ocean, and calling upon Mary Magdalen for help, he
+left the child wrapt in the cloak of its dead mother by her side and
+continued the journey to the Holy Land. His visit to St. Peter ended
+in his complete conversion, and upon his return to France he stopped
+at the rocky island where he found his wife and son alive and well,
+thanks to the prayers of St. Mary Magdalen. They returned to
+Marseilles, the vessel being guided by angels, and the whole town
+became Christian.
+
+Above the arch facing the altar is a very charming fresco of the
+Magdalen standing at the entrance of a cave, her hair falling like a
+mantle of cloth of gold about her, to receive the gift of a garment
+from a charitable hermit who had heard of her life of austerity and
+privation among the mountains of Provence.
+
+The single figures of St. Clare, St. Mary Magdalen and St. Rufino, as
+well as the saints in the vaulting opposite the altar, no longer
+follow Giotto's designs and are far inferior to the other frescoes.
+Teobaldo Pontano, Bishop of Assisi between 1314 and 1329, is supposed
+to be the kneeling figure at the feet of St. Rufino as donor of the
+chapel. It is so unlikely Giotto should have repeated his later Paduan
+designs in a feebler manner, as seen here, or that a pupil should
+have slavishly copied them, that it seems more probable the chapel
+dates from the time of St. Bonaventure, when its decoration may have
+been begun by Giotto and completed by some later Florentine follower
+called in by the bishop who desired to be buried here. The Pontano
+arms decorate the beautiful stained glass windows, which certainly
+date from the first half of the fourteenth century, and are the finest
+in the Lower Church with the exception of those in St. Martin's
+chapel. Each figure has a claim on our admiration, but especially
+lovely is the figure of the Magdalen whose hair falls to her feet in
+heavy waves of deepest gold. In the last division of the right window
+is the death of the saint, with the lions at her feet which are
+supposed to have dug her grave.
+
+_The Chapel of St. Antonio di Padova._--Built by the Assisan family of
+Lelli in the fourteenth century, it was once ornamented by Florentine
+frescoes of the same date which were destroyed when the roof fell in,
+and it has now nothing of interest save the windows. These contain
+some naïve scenes from the life of St. Anthony; among them may be
+noticed his preaching to the fish which raise their heads above the
+water to listen.
+
+_Chapel of San Stefano._--This like the last, has only very decadent
+frescoes by Adone Doni and is solely interesting for its windows
+(second half of fourteenth century), where below the symbols of the
+Evangelists are single figures of saints, among them King Louis and
+the royal Bishop of Toulouse. Cardinal Gentile di Montefiore, founder
+of the chapel of S. Martino, was also the donor of this one and is
+represented in the right window with his crest, a tree growing out of
+a blue mound against an orange background.
+
+_The Chapel of St. Catherine, or Capella del Crocifisso._--This
+chapel was built by order of Cardinal Albornoz towards the end of the
+fourteenth century when on his passage through Umbria to reconquer the
+rebellious cities for the Roman Pontiff. He conceived at Assisi so
+great a love for the memory of St. Francis that he desired to be
+buried there; but though his body was brought to Assisi from Viterbo
+where he died in 1367, it was afterwards carried to his bishopric at
+Toledo "at small expense," writes an economical chronicler, "upon
+men's shoulders"; only a cardinal's hat, suspended from the roof of
+the chapel, now remains to remind us of the warlike Spanish prelate.
+The frescoes here have been assigned to that mythical person
+Buffalmaco, of whom Vasari relates such humorous tales. All we can say
+is that they belong to the second half of the fourteenth century and
+are not very pleasing scenes from the life and martyrdom of St.
+Catherine of Alexandria, with a fresco of Cardinal Albornoz receiving
+consecration from a pope under the auspices of St. Francis. The
+windows are the first things to shine out amidst the gloom as one
+enters the Lower Church. Especially attractive are the figures of St.
+Francis and St. Clare, their cloaks of the colour of a tea-rose, and
+of the other saints in green and russet-brown standing in a frame of
+twisted ribbons tied in bows above their heads. Unfortunately the
+glass has been repaired in some places by careless modern workers and
+we see such strange results as the large head of a bearded man upon
+the body of St. Catherine, high up in the left hand window.
+
+  [Illustration: THE OLD CEMETERY OF SAN FRANCESCO]
+
+_The Chapel of St. Anthony the Abbot._[80]--About 1367 two monuments
+were erected in this chapel over the sepulchres of two murdered
+princes--Messer Ferdinando Blasco, nephew of the Cardinal Albornoz,
+and his son Garzia. Some say they met their death at Spoleto where the
+father was vice-governor, others that they were killed at Assisi close
+to the convent of S. Appolinare by the citizens before they submitted
+to the kindly rule of the Cardinal. The chapel had been built by a
+liberal Assisan gentleman who also left money for its decoration; but
+if there were paintings (Vasari mentions some by Pace di Fænza)
+nothing now remains but a rather feeble picture by a scholar of
+Pinturicchio. The white stone monuments, the white-washed walls and
+the total absence of colour gives an uncared-for look to this
+out-of-the way corner of the church. A much brighter spot is the old
+cemetery opening out of this chapel, which was built in the fourteenth
+century with the intention of adorning it with frescoes in imitation
+of the Campo Santo at Pisa. The double cloister seen against a
+background of cypresses and firs, above which rises the northern side
+of the Basilica, form a pretty group of buildings, and can be better
+enjoyed now than in former days, when the bones of Assisan nobles and
+franciscan friars were piled in the open galleries.
+
+The Basilica of San Francesco became the burial place, not only of
+some of the saint's immediate followers, but also of many
+distinguished personages. The large stone tomb at the end of the
+church is always pointed out as that of "Ecuba," Queen of Cyprus, who
+is said to have come to Assisi in 1229 to give thanks for having been
+cured of an illness by the intercession of St. Francis, when she gave
+the porphyry vase full of ultramarine which is still to be seen,
+though now empty of its precious contents. She is said to have died in
+1240, and to have been buried in San Francesco. But this "Ecuba" is a
+mysterious person not to be found in the history of her country, which
+has led some writers to say that it is Iolanthe, the second wife of
+Frederick II, who lies here. It is one of those tombs common in the
+time of Giovanni Pisani, but bearing only a faint resemblance to his
+masterpiece in the Church of San Domenico in Perugia. "On one side,"
+says Vasari, in surprise at the novelty of the style, "the Queen,
+seated upon a chair, places her right leg over the left in a singular
+and modern manner, which position for a lady is ungraceful, and
+cannot be regarded as a suitable action for a royal monument."
+
+The tomb to the right was erected soon after 1479 in memory of Niccolò
+Specchi, an Assisan physician of renown attached to the persons of
+Eugenius IV, and Niccolò V.
+
+_Tomb of St. Francis._--Although it had always been supposed that St.
+Francis lay beneath the high altar, no one knew precisely the spot
+where Elias had hidden him. In the last centuries many attempts were
+made to find the tomb by driving galleries in every direction into the
+bed of rock on which the Basilica stands;[81] but all failed, until
+more energetic measures were taken in 1818. And after fifty nights of
+hard work, conducted with the greatest secrecy (it would seem as
+though the spirit of Elias still presided over the workers), below the
+high altar, encased in blocks of travertine taken from the Roman wall
+near the temple of Minerva, and fitted together neatly as those of an
+Etruscan wall, was found the sepulchral urn of St. Francis. It was
+evidently the same in which he had been laid in the Church of San
+Giorgio, untouched till that day. Round the skeleton were found
+various objects, placed, perhaps, by the Assisans, who in this seem to
+have followed the custom of their earliest ancestors, as offerings to
+the dead. There were several silver coins, amongst them some of Lucca
+of 1181 and 1208, and a Roman ring of the second century, with the
+figure of Pallas holding a Victory in her right hand engraved on a red
+cornelian. Five Umbrian bishops, four cardinals, numberless priests
+and archæologists visited the spot to verify the truth of the
+discovery, and finally published the tidings far and wide, which
+brought greater crowds than ever to Assisi, and among them no less a
+personage than the Emperor Francis I, of Austria. Donations poured in
+for building a chapel beneath the Lower Church round the saint's tomb,
+and in six months the work was completed by Giuseppe Brizzi of Assisi.
+The citizens, in their zeal, decorated it with marble altars and
+statues, until the tradition treasured by the people of a hidden
+chapel below the Basilica and rivalling it in richness was almost
+realised, and they flocked down the dark staircases with lighted
+torches to witness the accomplishment of the legends weaved by their
+forefathers (see p. 136). It is a most impressive sight to attend mass
+here with the peasants in early morning ere they go forth to their
+work in the fields. Silently they kneel with bowed heads near the
+tomb, touching it now and again through the grating with their
+rosaries; the acolytes move slowly about the altar and the voices of
+the priests are hushed, for here at least all feel the solemnity of a
+religious rite. The candles burn dimly with a smoky flame, the
+sanctuary lamps cast a flickering red light upon the marble pavement
+and the walls cut out of the living rock, and with the darkness which
+seems to press around is the damp smell, reminding us that we are
+indeed in the very bowels of the Assisan mountain.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[73] There are only the most meagre scraps of information to rely upon
+as to the dates of Giotto's works at San Francesco, and it is needless
+here to enter into the endless discussion. One thing is obvious; the
+Assisan frescoes must have been executed before those at Padua which
+have always been assigned to 1306. In these pages we have sometimes
+followed the view held by Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle, sometimes
+that of Herr Thode, who appears to have studied the question with open
+eyes, but our final authority is M. Bernhard Berenson, who in a visit
+paid lately to Assisi was kind enough to point out many things which
+we should otherwise have passed by, and in the sequence of the
+frescoes by Giotto at San Francesco we have entirely followed his
+opinion.
+
+[74] For Simone Martini's Madonna and Saints between the two chapels
+of this transept, see p. 212. The portraits (?) of some of the first
+companions of St. Francis, painted beneath Cimabue's fresco, belong to
+the Florentine school. It would be vain to try and name them.
+
+[75] See Vasari, ed. Milanesi, vol. i. p. 426. (Sansoni Firenze.)
+
+[76] It is often supposed that Giotto took the theme of this fresco
+from the well-known lines of Dante referring to the mystical marriage
+of St. Francis to Poverty. But Dante wrote the xi. canto of the
+_Paradiso_ long after Giotto had left Assisi; both painter and poet
+really only followed the legend recounted by St. Bonaventure of how
+St. Francis met three women who saluted him on the plain of S. Quirico
+near Siena. These were Poverty, Charity and Obedience.
+
+[77] _Paradiso_, xi., Cary's translation.
+
+[78] This fact alone would disprove the idea that Giottino, who was
+born in 1324, could have been the author of these frescoes. Everything
+that cannot be attributed to other painters is put down as his work,
+so that we have many pictures and frescoes of totally different styles
+assigned to Giottino.
+
+[79] Some say this fresco represents the three youths begging St.
+Nicholas to pardon the consul who had condemned them to death, in
+which case it would come after the scene of the execution on the
+opposite wall.
+
+[80] The tabernacle on the altar is the work of Giulio Danti, after a
+design by Galeazzo Alessi, both Perugians, in 1570.
+
+[81] How right Elias was to hide the body of St. Francis in so secure
+a place is shown by the various endeavours made by the Perugians to
+secure the holy relics for their town. In the fifteenth century they
+attempted, while at war with Assisi, to carry off the body by force,
+and failing, had recourse to diplomacy. They represented to Eugenius
+IV, that it would be far safer at Perugia, and begged him to entrust
+them with it. He denied his "dear sons'" request on the plea that the
+Assisans would be brought to the verge of despair and their city to
+ruin.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+_The Sienese Masters in the Lower Church. The Convent_
+
+   ... "Je donnerais pour ce caveau toutes les églises de Rome."--H.
+   TAINE. _Voyages en Italie. Pérouse et Assisi._
+
+
+THE CHAPEL OF ST. MARTIN[82]
+
+The best masters of Tuscany having, by the beginning of the thirteenth
+century, covered most of the walls of San Francesco with choice work,
+it now remained for Siena to send artists to complete their loveliness
+by effigies of calmly sweet Madonnas and saints whose gentle beauty
+seemed rightly fitted for their Umbrian surroundings.
+
+The first to come, probably very few years after Giotto had left, was
+Simone Martini, "the most lovable," Mr Berenson calls him, "of all the
+artists before the Renaissance."[83] He married Giovanna Memmi, a
+Sienese, whose brother Lippo Memmi often helped him in minor works;
+this may account for the confusion between the two, and why he is so
+often called by his brother-in-law's surname. One of the artist's
+claims to immortality, the highest, according to Vasari who was not
+partial to the Sienese, was the praise he won from Petrarch for the
+portraits he painted on more than one occasion of Madonna Laura.
+Simone's talents were sung by the "love-devoted" Tuscan poet who calls
+him "mio Simon," and in one perfect sonnet tells how he must surely
+have been in paradise and seen the loveliness of Madonna Laura, as he
+has drawn her features with such fidelity that all on earth must
+perforce acknowledge her beauty.
+
+The Chapel of St. Martin at Assisi is filled with such faces as
+Petrarch describes. It possesses, too, all the varied colour of a
+garden, only a garden not inhabited by earthly mortals, but by gentle
+knights and fairy kings wearing wonderful crowns of beaten gold, with
+cherubs' heads, flowers and moons upon their surface, and women who
+hold their lilies with caressing fingers. All gives way before his
+sense of the beautiful, the ornate and the charming, so that he
+creates a world apart of saints and angels with a feeling of
+remoteness about them which is one of the most striking features of
+his art. He loved all that was joyous; he depicted no tragic scenes;
+his saints have already won their crowns in heaven, his kings are
+conquerors, and around a death-bed the angels sing. He may sometimes
+fail as a story-teller, and his compositions do not always give the
+same sense of perfection as those of other stronger artists, but his
+very faults are lovable, and all can be forgiven for the exquisite
+finish of his paintings, which, in their brilliant colouring, are like
+a piece of old embroidery where design and hues have been woven in by
+patient fingers. "To convey his feeling for beauty and grace and
+splendour," says Mr Berenson, "Simone possessed means more than
+sufficient. He was a master of colour as few have been before him or
+after him. He had a feeling for line always remarkable, and once, at
+least, attaining to a degree of perfection not to be surpassed. He
+understood decorative effects as a great musician understands his
+instruments."[84]
+
+It is a little difficult to find out where Simone begins his legend of
+St. Martin, as he seems to have fitted in the different scenes just
+where he could, thinking, as was only right, more of the effect of
+decoration than of the sequence of the story. The two frescoes on the
+left wall refer to the well-known act of charity, when St. Martin, a
+young Lombard soldier serving in the army of the Emperor Constantine
+in Gaul, met, on a bitter winter's day, a beggar outside the gates of
+Amiens, and having nothing but the clothes he wore divided his cloak
+with the poor man. It is not one of Simone's pleasing compositions;
+far better is the next where Christ appears to the saint in a dream,
+wearing the cloak he had given in charity and saying to the angels who
+surround him: "Know ye who hath thus arrayed me? My servant Martin,
+though yet unbaptised, hath done this." The face of the young saint is
+very calm and palely outlined against his golden aureole as he lies
+asleep, clasping his throat gently with one hand. With what patience
+has Simone drawn the open-work of the sheets, the pattern on the
+counterpane, the curtain about the bed; no detail has been passed
+over. And who can forget his angels, the profile of one, the thick
+waving hair of another, and the grand pose of the standing figure, a
+little behind Christ, whose head is poised so stately upon a
+well-moulded neck.
+
+  [Illustration: THE KNIGHTHOOD OF ST. MARTIN BY SIMONE MARTINI
+  (D. ANDERSON--_photo_)]
+
+Exactly opposite are two scenes belonging to the early times of the
+saint's life when he was yet a soldier. In one the Emperor Constantine
+is giving him his sword, while an attendant buckles on the spurs of
+knighthood; here also, as in most of the frescoes, we pick out single
+figures to dwell on, such as the youth with a falcon on his wrist,
+whose profile is clearly outlined yet tender, with that pale
+red-golden tinge over the face by which Simone always charms us.
+Remarkable for grace and motion is the man playing on the mandoline,
+with a sad dreamy face, who seems to sway to the sounds of his own
+music; whilst almost comic is the player on the double pipes, with his
+curious headgear and tartan cloak.
+
+The next scene is divided by a rocky ridge, behind which is seen the
+army of the Gauls, who, by the way, have Assisan lions on their
+shields. St. Martin, after refusing to accept his share of the
+donations to the soldiers, declares his intention of leaving the army
+to become a priest, and when accused of cowardice by the Emperor, he
+offers to go forth and meet the enemy without sword or shield. Simone
+pictures him as he steps forth upon the perilous enterprise, holding
+the cross and pointing to the sky, as he refuses the helmet held out
+to him by the Emperor. Next day, says the legend, the Gauls laid down
+their arms, having submitted to the word of St. Martin who was then
+allowed to quit the world for the religious life.
+
+On the opposite wall, above the apparition of Christ with the cloak,
+we see St. Martin no longer in soldier's garb, but as the holy Bishop
+of Tours. The saint has fallen into a reverie whilst saying mass, and
+in vain a priest tries to rouse him by laying a hand upon his shoulder
+for his eyes remain closed, and the kneeling priest waits patiently
+with the book of the Gospels upon his knee. Simone never surpassed the
+dignity, the religious feeling, the quiet repose and ease expressed in
+the figure of St. Martin; while he has kept the scene as simple as one
+of Giotto's frescoes, thus making it the most perfect among these
+compositions. To the left is a much ruined picture of the restoration
+of a child to life through the prayers of the saint, who was preaching
+at Chartres. Among a crowd of people one figure, with a Florentine
+headgear such as Andrea del Castagno paints, stands clearly out; below
+a small child can be discerned stretching out little hands towards the
+kneeling bishop.
+
+Above this again, almost too high to be clearly seen, is the death of
+St. Hilary of Poitiers, at which St. Martin assisted. One of the
+mourners has a mantle of turquoise blue, a beautiful piece of colour
+like the sky seen through the arches of the Gothic windows.
+
+On the other wall, over the fresco where St. Martin receives
+knighthood, is recorded the legend of how "as he went to the church on
+a certain day, meeting a poor man naked, he gave him his inner robe,
+and covered himself as he best might with his cope. And the
+archdeacon, indignant, offering him a short and narrow vestment, he
+received it humbly, and went up to celebrate mass. And a globe of fire
+appeared above his head, and when he elevated the host, his arms being
+exposed by the shortness of the sleeves, they were miraculously
+covered with chains of gold and silver, suspended on them by
+angels."[85]
+
+The next picture, which is very ruined, represents the visit of St.
+Martin to the Emperor Valentinian, who, because he had rudely kept his
+seat in his presence, suddenly found it to be on fire, and, as the
+legend says, "he burnt that part of his body upon which he sat,
+whereupon, being compelled to rise, contrite and ashamed, he embraced
+Martin, and granted all that he required of him."
+
+Above this is the death of St. Martin, with a graceful flight of
+angels hovering over the bier singing as they prepare to carry his
+soul to heaven. Very fine is the fresco in the lunette of the
+entrance, where Cardinal Gentile, in his franciscan habit, is kneeling
+before the saint who bends forward to raise him from so humble a
+position. But in the single figures of saints, in the arch of this
+chapel, standing like guardian deities within their Gothic niches,
+Simone rivals greater artists in grace and strange beauty. In honour
+of the franciscan donor the chief franciscan saints are depicted
+beside two others of universal fame. St. Francis and St. Anthony of
+Padua, and below them St. Catherine of Alexandria and St. Mary
+Magdalen; on the other side, St. Louis, King of France and St. Louis,
+Bishop of Toulouse, and below them St. Clare and St. Elisabeth of
+Hungary. Nowhere has St. Clare received so true an interpretation of
+her gentle saintliness as in this painting by Simone, and he has
+surpassed his other works in the exquisite drawing of the hand which
+holds her habit to one side. It would seem as though in these saints
+he had attained the limits of his power of expressing types of pure
+beauty, were it not for the half figures in the embrasures of the
+window of such finish and subtle charm as to haunt us like some strain
+of long remembered music. There is a bishop in a cope of creamy white
+with gold embroidery, a hermit with a long brown beard, and saints who
+calmly pray with clasped hands. The broad white band of pale shadowed
+fur is low enough to show the graceful line of the neck of the young
+saint in the left hand window, his hair tinged with pale red and his
+face so fair as to seem a shadow upon the wall, coming and going in
+the play of light.
+
+So enthralling is the study of the frescoes that it is possible to
+leave the chapel without noticing the stained-glass windows, perhaps
+the loveliest in the church where all are lovely. They seem to belong
+to the same epoch as the paintings, and in one or two instances a
+figure may have been inspired by them, such as the angels with sword
+and shield who resemble Simone's angels in the upper part of the
+fresco of St. Martin's death. Cardinal Gentile was in all probability
+the donor of these as well as of the chapel, for he is represented in
+the central window kneeling before St. Martin, who is in full
+episcopals. These windows are dazzling; there are warriors in red and
+green, saints standing against circles of cream-tinted leaves, St.
+Jerome in magenta-coloured vestments harmonising strangely with the
+crimson of his cardinal's hat; and St. Anthony of Padua in violet
+shaded with paler lights as on the petals of a Florentine iris. A
+saint in white is placed against a scarlet background, another in pale
+china blue against a sky of deep Madonna blue, and all these colours
+lie side by side like masses of jewels of every shade.
+
+On leaving we find to the left of the papal throne a small chapel
+ornamented only by a window which has an apostle standing in a plain
+Gothic niche, the ruby red and tawny yellow of his mantle making a
+brilliant patch of colour in this dark corner of the church. The head
+is modern, but the figure, the circular pattern beneath, and the right
+half of the window with five medallions, are, according to Herr Thode,
+the oldest pieces of coloured glass in the lower church.
+
+Just above the papal throne is a handsomely worked ambo in red marble
+and mosaic, forming a kind of pulpit from which many illustrious
+people have preached, among them St. Bonaventure and St. Bernardine of
+Siena. In the recess a Florentine artist of the fourteenth century has
+painted the Coronation of the Virgin, a fresco worthy of its beautiful
+setting; and there is a crucifixion and scenes from the martyrdom of
+St. Stanislaus of Poland by a follower of Pietro Lorenzetti, pupil of
+Simone Martini. St. Stanislaus was canonised in 1253 when Innocent IV,
+came to consecrate the Basilica, and upon this occasion a miracle took
+place which redounds to the honour of the saint. While Cardinal de
+Conti (afterwards Alexander IV,) was preaching, one of the capitals of
+a pillar above the pulpit fell upon the head of a woman in the
+congregation, and thinking she was dead, as she had sunk down without
+a groan, her neighbours covered her over with a cloak "so as not to
+disturb the solemnity of the occasion." But to their amazement when
+the sermon ended the woman rose up and gave thanks to St. Stanislaus,
+for the blow, far from doing her harm, had cured her of headaches to
+which she had been subject. The legend would long since have been
+forgotten, were it not that the capital which fell on that memorable
+day is still suspended by chains in the opposite corner of the nave,
+and often puzzles the visitor who does not know its history.
+
+Below the pulpit is a slab of red marble let into the wall with these
+simple words inscribed: "Hic jacet Jacoba sancta nobilisque romana,"
+by which the Assisans commemorated the burial place of Madonna Giacoma
+da Settesoli the friend of St. Francis, who after his death lived at
+Assisi and followed the rule of the Third order until she died in 1239
+(see p. 114).
+
+_Left Transept._--To Pietro Lorenzetti was given the work of
+decorating these walls with scenes from the Passion, and so far as
+completing the rich colour of the church be succeeded. But when
+studied as separate compositions they betray the weakness of an artist
+who, as Mr. Berenson remarks, "carries Duccio's themes to the utmost
+pitch of frantic feeling." Great prominence is given to the subject
+of the crucifixion where the vehement actions of the figures rather
+than the nobility of the types are pre-eminent. It may be of interest
+to some that the man on the white horse is said to be Gualtieri, Duke
+of Athens, the tyrant of Florence, whose arms Vasari says he
+discovered in the fresco which he describes as the work of Pietro
+Cavallini.
+
+A curious composition is that on the opposite wall where the disciples
+sit in awkward attitudes and the servants in the kitchen are seen
+cleaning the dishes while a dog hastily licks up the scraps. It would
+be difficult to know this represented a religious scene were it not
+for the large aureoles of the apostles. Nor has Pietro succeeded in
+giving solemnity to the scene of the Stigmata, where the strained
+position of St. Francis and the agitated movement of the Seraph
+partake of the general characteristics of these frescoes. But in his
+Madonna, St. Francis and St. John the Evangelist, below the
+crucifixion, Pietro Lorenzetti gives his very best and their faces we
+remember together with the saints of Simone Martini. Referring to this
+fresco M. Berenson says: "At Assisi, in a fresco by Pietro, of such
+relief and such enamel as to seem contrived of ivory and gold rather
+than painted, the Madonna holds back heart-broken tears as she looks
+fixedly at her child, who, Babe though he is, addresses her earnestly;
+but she remains unconsoled."[86]
+
+_Chapel of S. Giovanni Battista._[87]--Another lovely work by Pietro
+Lorenzetti is the triptych over the altar, the Madonna, St. Francis
+and St. John the Baptist, but here the action of the child leaning
+towards the Virgin and holding the end of her veil, is more caressing
+and suggestive of babyhood. Above are small heads of angels like those
+Pietro places in medallions round the frescoes in the south transept.
+This, and the panel picture over the altar in the opposite chapel,
+complete the works of the Sienese school in Assisi. The Umbrian school
+is represented by a large and unsympathetic picture by Lo Spagna
+(dated 1526), which is however considered by local admirers of the
+painter to be his masterpiece. It is a relief to turn from his
+yellow-eyed saints and hard colouring to the windows of this chapel
+which are remarkable for their harmony and depth of tone.[88] The
+figures of the central window date from the second half of the
+thirteenth century, those of the left window are at least two
+centuries later.
+
+_The Sacristies._--These open out of St. Giovanni's Chapel. Both are
+ornamented with handsomely carved cupboards of the sixteenth century
+where the friars store their vestments and costly lace, and which once
+were full of gold and silver vessels amassed during many centuries.
+But often during mediæval times of warfare the friars had to stand
+aside and see the sacristies sacked by the Perugians, or even the
+Assisans, when they must have envied the peace of mind of the first
+franciscans who, possessing nothing, could have no fear of
+robbers.[89]
+
+Devoted as the citizens were to the memory of St. Francis they do not
+seem to have hesitated, when in want of money, to help themselves
+liberally to the things in his church. At one time when the Baglioni
+were besieging Assisi, her despot Jacopo Fiumi gathered the citizens
+about him, and in an eloquent harangue called upon them to rob the
+church at once before the enemy had entered the gates, lest the
+treasure should fall into the hands of the Perugians. So the
+sacristies were rifled, and with the proceeds Jacopo Fiumi rebuilt the
+walls and the palaces which had fallen to ruin during the incessant
+fighting of past years. The next plunderers were the soldiers of
+Napoleon, and it is a marvel that so many things still remain. A
+cupboard in the inner sacristy contains a beautiful cross of
+rock-crystal ornamented with miniatures in blue enamel brought by St.
+Bonaventure as a gift from St. Louis of France; there is also the
+second rule of St. Francis which was sanctioned by Honorius III. Even
+more precious is a small and crumpled piece of parchment, with a
+blessing written in the big child-like writing of St. Francis, which
+he gave to Brother Leo at La Vernia after he had received the
+Stigmata. On one side he wrote part of the Laudes Creatoris, upon the
+other the biblical blessing:
+
+     "_Benedicat tibi Dominus et custodiat te_:
+     _Ostendat faciem suam tibi et misereatur tui_:
+     _Convertat vultum suam ad te et de tibi pacem_":
+
+and then below:
+
+     "_Dominus benedicat te, Frate Leo._"
+
+Instead of the Latin, the saint signs with the Thau cross, which is of
+the shape of the mediæval gallows, and may have been yet another way
+of showing his humility by humbling himself even to the level of
+malefactors. Many pages have been written about this relic; the line
+by Brother Leo in explanation below the signature of St. Francis:
+
+     "_Simili modo fecit istud signum Thau cum capite manu sua,_"
+
+has puzzled many people, but in a pamphlet by Mr Montgomery
+Carmichael[90] it has received a plausible translation. He thinks that
+_cum capite_ refers to the small knob at the top of the Thau, by which
+St. Francis meant to represent a malefactor's head; the line would
+read thus: "in like manner with his own hand he made a cross with a
+head," and not "with his own head," as some believe. Mr Carmichael
+thinks the curious mound out of which the cross rises is a rough
+drawing of La Vernia. Above the benediction, in neatly formed letters,
+Brother Leo has written a short account of the sojourn at the Sacred
+Mount and of the Vision of the Seraph. This relic has been mentioned
+in the archives of the convent since 1348, and is always carried in
+procession at the commencement of the feast of the "Perdono" on July
+31st.
+
+Almost more honoured by the faithful is the "Sacred Veil of the most
+Holy Virgin," which can only be exposed to the public in the presence
+of the Bishop of Assisi, and is shown in times of pilgrimage when the
+sacristy and church are full of men and women waiting for their turn
+to kiss the holy relic.
+
+The picture over the door, painted by Giunta Pisano (?) is always
+pointed out as a portrait of St. Francis, but as the painter's first
+visit to Assisi was in 1230 he can only have seen the body of the
+saint borne to its last resting-place in the Basilica, and even that
+is doubtful when we remember with what secrecy the burial was
+performed. Here the face is pointed and emaciated, with a curious look
+in the eyes as though Giunta had desired to record his blindness. The
+figure is surrounded by small scenes from the miracles of St. Francis,
+performed during his lifetime and at his tomb in San Giorgio. But
+though in the so-called portraits of the saint, the artists think more
+of representing him as the symbol of asceticism and sanctity than of
+aiming at giving a true likeness, both this picture and a fresco
+painted in 1216 at Subiaco when the saint stayed there on his way to
+Spain, are not very dissimilar from the graphic description left us by
+Celano. He tells us that St. Francis "was rather below the middle stature
+with a small round head and a long pinched face, a full but narrow
+forehead and candid black eyes of medium size, his hair likewise was
+black; the brows were straight, the nose well-proportioned, thin and
+straight, the ears erect but small, and the temples flat; his speech
+was kindly, yet ardent and incisive; his voice powerful, sweet, clear
+and sonorous; his teeth were regular, white and set close; his lips
+thin and mobile, his beard was black and scant, his neck thin, his
+shoulders square; the arms were short, the hands small with long
+fingers and almond-shaped nails, his legs were thin, his feet small,
+his skin delicate, and he was very thin...."
+
+  [Illustration: BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF THE BASILICA AND CONVENT OF SAN
+  FRANCESCO, FROM A DRAWING MADE IN 1820]
+
+_Right Transept._[91]--On the walls between the Chapels of the
+Sacramento and of St. Maria Maddalena, Simone Martini has left some of
+his loveliest work in the half figures of franciscan saints he places
+near the Madonna. These are St. Francis, St. Louis of Toulouse, St.
+Elizabeth of Hungary, St. Clare clothed in the habit of her order,
+always to be recognised when painted by Simone by her heavy plaits of
+hair, St. Anthony of Padua with the lily, St. Louis of France with a
+crown of _fleur-de-lis_, and upon the right of the Virgin, a noble
+saint who may be Helen the mother of King Louis, as she too holds a
+sceptre with the lily of France on the top. Never had saints so
+majestic a queen as Simone's Madonna. The subdued greens and tawny
+reds of their mantles and their auburn hair look most beautiful
+against the gold ground which shines with dull light about them. Each
+of their aureoles bears a different pattern in raised _gesso_; a
+garland of flowers, a circle of human heads, suns, a tracery of roses
+and ivy, or yet again another of oak leaves. After Giotto's Allegories
+and the frescoes in San Martino, these saints are by far the loveliest
+things in San Francesco, and as they look towards us, ethereal, like a
+faint moon on a misty night, they seem the very incarnation of
+mediæval faith. Dante created women such as Matilda, who sings to him
+in Purgatory as she is picking flowers on a woodland river's edge, and
+Simone paints them and conveys their spirit in the faces of St. Clare
+and St. Elizabeth.
+
+
+_The Convent_
+
+It is natural to think that the Basilica and Convent built under the
+guidance of Elias was as we see it now in its full magnificence of
+chapels, porch, colonnades and cloisters. Certainly the essential form
+of the building has not been altered, but in the early days it stood
+isolated from the town, surrounded by such rocks as jut out among the
+grass in the ravine outside Porta S. Pietro, and approached by a
+drawbridge which made it resemble, even more than it does now, a
+feudal stronghold guarding the Umbrian valley. Later on, as the life
+of the place centred ever more round the church of the saint, the
+citizens no longer built their houses near San Rufino or below the
+castle, but close to San Francesco, until a second town sprang up
+where once were only rough mountain pastures. It is still possible to
+form an idea of how it looked by following round the base of the hill
+by the Tescio, whence a wonderful and unique view of the northern side
+of church and convent is obtained (see Appendix). Assisi lies hidden,
+and standing high above us, shutting out the view of the valley, is
+San Francesco; not the building with great arches we are familiar
+with, rising high above the vineyards, but a castle, seen clearly
+defined and strong against the sky, whose bastions clasp the hill top
+as powerfully as a good rider bestrides his horse. Oak copses cover
+the slopes from the convent wall straight down to the banks of the
+Tescio, where little mills are set above deep pools of emerald green
+water and narrow canals fringed by poplar trees. The minute detail of
+the landscape in this deep ravine gives a curious feeling that we are
+walking in the background of one of Pier della Francesca's
+pictures--even to the distant view of low-lying hills where the
+torrent makes the sudden bend round the mountain edge; and the
+contrast is strange between it and the fortress-church upon the dark
+hill, where deep shadows lie across it and lurk within the crannies of
+its traceries in the bay windows of the chapels and in the depths of
+jutting stones. Such was the massive building "Jacopo" planned to
+stand upon the mountain ridge, as much a part of the rocks and the red
+earth as the cypresses which crown the summit. And in the midst, but
+on the southern side, he placed, as if to balance the rest, a square
+and boldly conceived bell-tower rising high above the church.[92]
+At the time it was the wonder of the Assisans, who boasted that for
+beauty as well as for solidity it could be counted among the first,
+not in Italy only, but in Europe. Bartolomeo of Pisa, came to cast one
+of the big bells, and together with his own name he inscribed those of
+Elias, Gregory IX, and Frederick II. On another bell, which has been
+recast, was graven a delightful couplet informing the faithful of the
+many services which consecrated bronze could render to the country
+round.
+
+  [Illustration: SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE TESCIO]
+
+         "Sabbatha pango, funera plango, fulgura frango:
+          Excito lentos, domo cruentos, dissipo ventos."
+     ("I ring in Sunday, I lament for the dead, the lightning I break,
+     I hurry the sluggards, I vanquish the wicked, the winds I disperse.")
+
+To the time of Elias also belongs the fine entrance to the Upper
+Church, where the Guelph lion and the eagle of Frederick II, record
+the liberality of both parties towards the building of the church,
+while the four animals round the wheel window seem to show that
+"Jacopo," notwithstanding his marked love for pure Gothic
+architecture, could not quite forget the strange but fascinating
+beasts of Lombard façades.
+
+  [Illustration: STAIRCASE LEADING FROM THE UPPER TO THE LOWER PIAZZA OF
+  SAN FRANCESCO]
+
+One friar in the fifteenth century inherited some of the enthusiasm of
+Elias for the basilica; this was Francesco Nani, the General of the
+franciscans, known as Francesco Sansone because his patron, Sixtus IV,
+is said to have addressed him with these words in allusion to his
+energy and strength of character, "Tu es fortissimus Samson." His
+name is found upon the beautiful stalls of the Upper Church, and it
+was he who superintended the laying out of the upper piazza, connected
+with the lower one by a long flight of stairs. It may also have been
+at this time that the _loggie_ of San Francesco were built for the
+purpose of erecting booths during the festival of the "Pardon of St.
+Francis." Certainly it was chiefly at his expense that Baccio Pintelli
+(1478) built the handsome entrance door and porch to the Lower Church,
+which in olden times was entered by a small door close to the
+campanile. The architect fitted his work admirably into a corner of
+the building, completing with clustered columns of pink marble, wheel
+window, trefoiled arches and stone traceries, the scheme of colour and
+the perfect proportions for which San Francesco is so remarkable. The
+doors of carved wood, darkened now and of such massive workmanship as
+to resemble bronze, were made in 1546 by Niccolò da Gubbio, who has
+carefully commemorated the legend of St. Francis and the wolf of
+Gubbio in one of the panels to the left. Sansone also commissioned
+the doorway of what is now the entrance to the friars' convent a year
+after the porch was finished, then it was only a small chapel, built
+by the members of the Third order when St. Bernardine of Siena revived
+the religious enthusiasm of the people. The Assisan artist placed a
+bas-relief of the saint in the arch above the door, and it is still
+called "la porta di San Bernardino."
+
+None should leave Assisi, not even those who only hurry over for the
+day, without visiting the convent, which recalls an eastern building
+from the whiteness of its great vaulted rooms, long corridors and
+arcaded courtyards when seen against the bluest of summer skies.[93]
+Then from the cool and spacious convent, a place to linger in upon a
+hot day in August, we step out into the open colonnade which skirts
+the building to the south, makes a sharp turn west, and then juts out
+at the end, facing south again. This last portion was added by
+Cardinal Albornoz in 1368, and goes by the name of the _Calcio_. But
+two centuries later the foundations were found to be insecure, and
+Sixtus IV, strengthened it by a bastion, which looks solid enough to
+resist even the havoc of an earthquake. The Pope was a great
+benefactor of the convent, and the friars placed his statue in a niche
+in the bastion, where he sits, his hand raised in benediction, on a
+papal throne overlooking the valley. From the rounded arches of rough
+stone, turned by storm and sunshine to russet-red, pink and yellow, we
+look out upon one of the most beautiful and extensive views in Umbria.
+To the right is Perugia standing out almost aggressively on the hill
+top; opposite, on a separate spur which divides the valley of Spoleto
+from that of the Tiber, Bettona and Montefalco hang upon peaks like
+the nests of birds in trees, and beyond are Spoleto, Trevi and Narni,
+nearer again Spello, and the domes of Foligno in the plain, with a
+host of small villages near. All the Umbrian world lies before us from
+the convent of San Francesco.
+
+  [Illustration: SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE PONTE S. VITTORINO]
+
+Many weary people besides the popes came to rest here in early times,
+and one mediæval warrior, Count Guido of Montefeltro, the great leader
+of the Ghibellines, laid down his arms and left his castle at Urbino
+in the year 1296, to pass his last days as a friar doing penance
+within the peaceful shelter of San Francesco for a long life of
+intrigue and bloodshed. He prayed by day, for at night they say he
+stood gazing out of his window, one of those we see above the walled
+orchard of the monks, watching the stars and attempting to divine the
+mysteries and destinies he read there, exceeding even the superstition
+of the age by his faith in the laws of astrology. But his meditations
+and careful preparation for a holy death were suddenly disturbed, and
+he found himself once more plunged into the whirl of Italian politics
+and intrigue. War raged between Pope Boniface VIII, a Gaetani, and the
+powerful family of the Colonna who braved his excommunications, and,
+when their Roman palaces were burnt, fled to their strongholds in the
+country. Many of these fell into the hands of the papal troops, but
+Penestrino, their principal fief, resisted all attacks and the Pope
+was nearly defeated when, remembering the old soldier Count Guido
+known to be "more cunning than any Italian of his time, masterly alike
+in war and in diplomacy," he hastened to ask his counsel. The story is
+recounted by Dante, who could not forgive the Ghibelline chieftain for
+coming to the assistance of the Pope.
+
+Boniface, seeking to silence the scruples of the friar, promised to
+absolve him from all sin, even before committal, if only he would tell
+him how to act so "that Penestrino cumber earth no more." Guido, whose
+subtlety had not deserted him in the cloister, gave an answer which,
+while it ensured success to the papal arms, stamped him as a man of
+such deceit and treachery that Dante placed him in the eighth gulf of
+hell, among the evil counsellors eternally surrounded by flaming
+tongues of fire.
+
+     "Then, yielding to the forced arguments,
+     Of silence as more perilous I deem'd,
+     And answer'd: 'Father! since thou washest me
+     Clear of that guilt wherein I now must fall,
+     Large promise with performance scant, be sure
+     Shall make thee triumph in thy lofty seat.'"[94]
+
+Besides Count Guido and the popes who, finding the large and airy
+rooms of the convent a convenient summer resort, were constant
+visitors at Assisi, it can show a fine list of royal visitors. Among
+them is the Queen of Sweden who, in 1655, came escorted by Papal
+Nuncios, foreign ambassadors and cavalry, to pray at the tomb of St.
+Francis. The Assisans sent out their best carriages with horses ridden
+by postillions to meet her, adorned their palaces with flags and
+damask hangings, and rang all the bells as she approached the
+Basilica. "The Queen is called Christina," a chronicler tells us; "she
+is aged twenty-nine, is very learned, being able to write in eleven
+languages; she is small but very comely.... One hundred and fifty beds
+were prepared in the convent and beautiful it was to see the numerous
+suite and the pages of the nobles."
+
+  [Illustration: A FRIAR OF THE MINOR CONVENTUAL ORDER OF ST. FRANCIS]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It strikes the visitor to Assisi as strange that the black-robed
+friars in charge of the Basilica are so unlike the franciscans with
+whom everyone is familiar, and it may be well to give a few facts
+relating to the many divisions in the Order which, as we have seen,
+began already to change in the time of Elias. In 1517 a portion of the
+brethren, desiring a mitigation of their rule, obtained from Leo X, a
+dispensation and received the title of Friars Minor Conventuals
+with the permission to choose their own Minister General. Their dress
+is shown in the illustration. Those who kept to the rule more nearly
+approaching to that of St. Francis, like those of Sta. Maria degli
+Angeli, the Carceri and San Damiano, were called Friars Minor of the
+Observance, or Observants, and take precedence over the others,
+enjoying the privilege of electing the "Minister General of the whole
+order of the Friars Minor and successor of St. Francis." In 1528,
+Matteo Baschi, an observant, instituted a new branch called the
+Capucins, because of their long pointed capuce, whom he inspired with
+the desire to lead a hermit's life in solitary places, preaching to
+the people but once in the year. They have deserted their hermitages
+and are a very popular order in Italy, devoting themselves especially
+to preaching and hearing confessions, and form quite a distinct family
+from the rest. The Basilica at Assisi no longer belongs to the
+Conventuals, as after the union of Italy it was declared to be a
+national monument. The Government also took possession of the convent
+as a school for boys, leaving only a small portion for the reduced
+number of friars to inhabit. They went to law, and the judge
+pronounced the convent to be the property of the Holy See which had
+never ceased to exercise jurisdiction over it; but a proviso was made
+that the school was to remain in its present quarters until the Pope
+or the franciscans should erect a suitable building for it in another
+part of the town. As much money is required for so large an edifice
+and sites are not so easily procured, it seems probable that for many
+years the sound of boys at play will be heard in the convent walls
+instead of the slow footsteps of silent friars.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[82] The donor of this chapel was Gentile de Monteflori, a franciscan,
+created cardinal in 1298 by Boniface VIII.
+
+[83] Simone was born at Siena in 1283, and died at Avignon in 1344. He
+belonged to the school of Duccio, though influenced to some degree by
+his contemporary Giotto, whose work at Assisi he had full opportunity
+to study.
+
+[84] _Central Italian Painters of the Renaissance_, B. Berenson, p.
+47.
+
+[85] _Sketches of the History of Christian Art_, by Lord Lindsay, p.
+134, vol. i.
+
+[86] _The Central Italian Painters of the Renaissance._ Bernhard
+Berenson, p. 48.
+
+[87] Built by the Orsini brothers, the founders of the Chapel del
+Sacramento, in the beginning of the fourteenth century.
+
+[88] It is curious that the early Umbrian painters had so little share
+in the decoration of the franciscan Basilica, the only other picture
+of the school is the one in the Chapel of St. Anthony the Abbot, and a
+fresco by some scholar of Ottaviano Nelli on the wall near the
+entrance of the Lower Church.
+
+[89] Not only had the friars to guard their own things, but also the
+vast treasures of the Popes who, especially during their sojourn at
+Avignon, found San Francesco a convenient store-house. See on p. 20
+for the story of how these goods were stolen by the citizens and the
+penalty this brought upon the town.
+
+[90] _La Benedizione di San Francesco_, Livorno, 1900.
+
+[91] See chapter vi. p. 171 for description of the frescoes here, and
+of those above the altar. For Cimabue's Madonna on the right wall of
+the Transept see chapter v. p. 155.
+
+[92] In 1529 the campanile, which rather gives the impression of a
+watch-tower, was used by Captain Bernardino da Sassoferrato, as a sure
+place of refuge when the Prince of Orange entered Assisi with his
+victorious army. From its heights he kept his enemy at bay for three
+days, and finally escaped to Spello leaving the city a prey to another
+despot.
+
+[93] Open to visitors at two o'clock.
+
+[94] Cary's translation. Dante, _Inferno_, canto xxvii.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+_Giotto's Legend of St. Francis in the Upper Church_
+
+   "What, therefore, Giotto gave to art was, before all things,
+   vitality."--J. A. SYMONDS. _Renaissance in Italy._
+
+
+Giotto in the Lower Church had felt his way towards the full
+expression of his genius; succeeding so well in the four Allegories
+that he was chosen to illustrate the life of St. Francis, withheld, as
+we have seen, from all former artists, while Cimabue was to hear the
+poet's praise of his pupil, "Ora ha Giotto il grido." The task
+undertaken by the young painter, already a master at twenty-five, was
+almost superhuman, and certainly unique in the career of any artist;
+for whereas the pictorial treatment of the New Testament had been
+attempted by many during several centuries, Giotto was destined to
+invent forms for the whole franciscan cycle with such perfection that
+no succeeding artist has varied his formula. It remains a wonderful
+achievement, and the noble manner of its accomplishment proved him to
+be, as Mr Roger Fry expresses it, "the supreme epic painter of the
+world."
+
+If St. Francis was fortunate in having his life related by so
+admirable a story-teller, Giotto also owed something to the early
+chroniclers who seeing, perhaps unconsciously, the extraordinary
+poetry and the dramatic incidents in the saint's career, had
+faithfully recorded them in simple and beautiful language. So far the
+work was ready for Giotto, even the exact scenes were chosen for him
+to illustrate, but the problem how to unfold and make them familiar to
+the faithful by simple means, and yet not to lose the dignity and
+charm of the theme, remained for him to solve; and the representation,
+by a few figures, of a whole dramatic incident in so vivid a manner
+could only have succeeded in the hands of a great master of the
+fourteenth century. It is nearly certain that Giotto used St.
+Bonaventure's _Life of St. Francis_, finished in 1263 and founded,
+with but few additions, upon _The Three Companions_ and Celano's first
+and second _Life of St. Francis_. Though written with a certain charm
+of style and though it lacks the ring of those early pages, in which
+St. Francis becomes known to us in such a way that we forget he lived
+seven hundred years ago; and although the various incidents of his
+life are presented like so many beautiful pictures, there is the
+feeling always that St. Bonaventure was writing about a saint already
+honoured upon earth and in heaven, and not of the man whom all loved
+as the "Poverello d'Assisi." But this legend served Giotto's purpose;
+and a knowledge of the words he followed being necessary in order to
+see where he simply kept to the franciscan legend, and where he
+penetrated the true spirit of the saint's life and its dramatic
+interest, we quote from it at some length, although many of the main
+facts have already been treated of in a preceding chapter.[95]
+
+I. _St. Francis honoured by the Simpleton._--(We begin on the right
+wall by the High Altar, and follow straight on to the opposite side,
+the legend unfolding as in the pages of a book.)
+
+   "A certain man of great simplicity dwelt in those days in Assisi,
+   who, by virtue of knowledge divinely infused, whenever he met
+   Francis in the street, would take off his mantle, and spread it
+   upon the ground before him, declaring that he did so because he
+   was a man worthy of all honour and reverence, who should shortly
+   perform great works and marvellous deeds...."[96]
+
+The bare facts are here narrated which Giotto does not alter, but he
+puts such life into the scene that we feel he might have been present
+when the simpleton cast himself at Francis' feet and astonished the
+Assisans by his words. Attention is fixed upon the six people in the
+foreground. Two worthy citizens have just arrived in time to see the
+cloak being spread on the ground before Francis, and to hear the
+prophetic words; and as they turn to each other, one pointing to the
+scene, the other raising his hand with a movement of surprise, we seem
+to hear their carping criticisms upon the brilliant youth who,
+although he spent his time in singing and carousals, was one day to
+bring renown to their city. The young Francis, ever heedless of
+worldly comment, is stepping lightly on to the cloak, with a movement
+of surprise that he should receive such honour. All have the
+Florentine headgear, but the head of St. Francis is covered by a small
+white cap fitting close behind the ears, just showing his hair in
+front, and we feel that Giotto would have left him so, but the
+franciscans, ever to and fro in the church to see that the story was
+painted as they liked, insisted upon an aureole being added. As much
+glory for St. Francis they cried, as gold and money can give him. So
+Giotto, who disliked unnecessary decorations, was made to put an
+aureole above the white cap, larger than any we have ever seen. But
+take away the halo and we should yet know which of the figures is the
+saint, for he stands a little apart from his two noble friends with
+ermine lined cloaks who talk with hands clasped together, and is
+perhaps already wondering about the destiny which awaits him and of
+which he was unaware, "for as yet he understood not the great purposes
+of God towards him."
+
+Besides the human interest of the frescoes it is a delightful task to
+study the architecture in each scene, for here, in the Upper Church,
+Giotto has built a whole city of little pink houses with balconies,
+towers and turrets, of exquisite Gothic basilicas, of temples and
+gabled thrones. His priests sit within palaces full of lancet windows
+and pointed arches, the groined roofs, as in the Assisan Church,
+ablaze with myriads of stars. What love he had for dainty ornaments,
+simple, nay almost severe in outline, but perfectly finished; and he
+always likes to show the blue sky overhead, or at least peeping
+through one of the windows, making the marble seem more lustrous and
+creamy white. Would that all Florence had been built by him.
+
+2. _St. Francis giving his cloak to a poor Knight._
+
+   "Going forth one day, as was his wont, in apparel suited to his
+   state, he met a certain soldier of honour and courage, but poor
+   and vilely clad; of whose poverty, feeling a tender and sorrowful
+   compassion, he took off his new clothes and gave them to the poor
+   man-at-arms."
+
+None are there to witness the kind action of the young saint who, like
+another St. Martin, has dismounted to give his mantle to the poor man
+in a ravine near a little town enclosed by walls, a church spire
+rising upon the opposite hill. Giotto must have been thinking of the
+small rock-set towns, with stunted trees growing outside their walls,
+in his Tuscan home in the Mugello when he painted this, instead of
+the Umbrian town, standing amid vineyards and cornfields above an open
+valley with winding rivers, whose church he was decorating. It is the
+only one of the series in which the landscape is an important part of
+the picture, in the others it is a mere accessory.
+
+3. _The Vision of St. Francis._
+
+   "On the following night, when he was asleep, the divine mercy
+   showed him a spacious and beautiful palace filled with arms and
+   military ensigns, all marked with the Cross of Christ to make
+   known to him that his charitable deed done to the poor soldier
+   for the love of the great King of heaven should receive an
+   unspeakable reward."
+
+It will be remembered that after this dream St. Francis started to
+join the army of Walter de Brienne, having wrongly interpreted the
+vision, which in reality symbolised the army he was eventually to lead
+in the service of the Pope (see p. 44). This is, perhaps, the least
+successful of the frescoes; probably the subject did not appeal
+strongly to the painter (he only seems to have enjoyed inventing the
+colonnaded palace with its trefoil windows) and also, as Mr Ruskin
+explains: "Giotto never succeeded, to the end of his days, in
+representing a figure lying down, and at ease. It is one of the most
+curious points in all his character. Just the thing which he could
+study from nature without the smallest hindrance, is the thing he
+never can paint; while subtleties of form and gesture, which depend
+absolutely on their momentariness, and actions in which no model can
+stay an instant, he seizes with infallible accuracy."[97]
+
+4. _St. Francis praying before the Crucifix in San Damiano._
+
+   "As he lay prostrate before a crucifix he was filled with great
+   spiritual consolation, and gazing with tearful eyes upon the
+   holy cross of the Lord, he heard with his bodily ears a voice
+   from the crucifix, which said thrice to him: 'Francis, go and
+   build up My house, which as thou seest, is falling into ruin.'"
+
+Unfortunately this fresco is much faded and in parts peeled off; this,
+combined with the representation of a ruined church, gives a curious
+effect of total destruction, as if an earthquake had passed over the
+land. The figure of the saint, just visible, and his attitude of
+earnest prayer is very charming.
+
+  [Illustration: ST. FRANCIS RENOUNCES THE WORLD
+  (D. ANDERSON--_photo_)]
+
+5. _St. Francis renounces the world._
+
+   "And now his father, ... brought this son, ... before the Bishop
+   of Assisi to compel him to renounce in his hands all his
+   inheritance.... As soon, therefore, as he came into the Bishop's
+   presence, without a moment's delay, neither waiting for his
+   father's demand nor uttering a word himself, he laid aside all
+   his clothes, and gave them back to his father.... With marvellous
+   fervour he then turned to his father, and spoke thus to him in
+   the presence of all: 'Until this hour I have called thee my
+   father on earth; from henceforth, I may say confidently, my
+   Father Who art in heaven.'"
+
+This, perhaps the most interesting of Giotto's frescoes, can be
+compared with the one in Sta. Croce at Florence on the same subject,
+painted when time and labour had given greater strength to his
+genius. The Assisan scene is treated with more simplicity, and, if
+less perfect as a decorative scheme, possesses quite as much
+dramatic interest and vitality. A little block of pink houses on
+either side reminds us that we are outside the Bishop's palace in
+the Piazza S. Maria Maggiore, where the scene is said to have
+occurred. Of course all the Assisans have turned out to see how the
+quarrel between Bernardone and his son will end. They stand behind
+the irate father like a Greek chorus, while one, evidently a citizen
+of distinction from his ermine lined cloak and tippet, restrains
+Messer Pietro, who is throwing back his arm with the evident
+intention of striking his son. Francis' passion for repairing
+Assisan churches and ministering to the wants of the poor had proved
+a costly business to the thrifty merchant, who loved his money and
+had little sympathy with Assisan beggars (sojourners in Assisi may
+agree with him). Delightful are the two tiny children who with one
+hand clutch up their garments, full of stones to throw at St.
+Francis. The bishop is the calmest person there, turning to his
+priests he seems to say: "All is well, there is God the Father's
+hand in the sky (with a little patience it can be distinguished in
+the fresco), and we are sure to gain the day, spite of Pietro's
+angry words." And so he quietly folds his episcopal mantle around
+St. Francis, who from this moment becomes indeed the Child of
+heaven. It may seem strange, as Mr Ruskin truly observes, that St.
+Francis, one of whose virtues was obedience, should begin life by
+disobeying his father, but Giotto means to show that the young saint
+was casting off all worldly restraint in order to obey the Supreme
+Power, and the scene is a counterpart to Dante's lines referring to
+his marriage with the Lady Poverty.
+
+     "A dame, to whom none openeth pleasure's gate
+     More than to death, was, 'gainst his father's will,
+     His stripling choice: and he did make her his,
+     Before the spiritual court, by nuptial bonds,
+     And in his father's sight: from day to day,
+     Then loved her more devoutly."[98]
+
+6. _The dream of Innocent III._
+
+   "He saw in a dream the Lateran Basilica, now falling into ruin,
+   supported by the shoulders of a poor, despised, and feeble man.
+   'Truly,' said he, 'this is he who by his works and his teaching
+   shall sustain the Church of Christ.'"
+
+In the representations of this vision painted for Dominican churches,
+the Lateran is always supported by the two great founders, Francis and
+Dominic, who, in their different ways, helped Innocent in his
+difficult task of reforming the Church. Giotto shows his power and the
+advance art is making under his hand, in the figure of St. Francis,
+who with body slightly bent back and one hand on his hip, seems to
+support the great weight, while his feet are so firmly planted that
+there is no uncomfortable feeling of strain and only a sense of
+strength and security. Two men are seated by the bedside of the Pope,
+one is asleep while the other keeps watch, and in his slightly wearied
+attitude and the reposeful figure of the sleeper, Giotto's keen
+observation of the ordinary incidents of every day life is very
+apparent.
+
+7. _Innocent III, sanctions the Rule of St. Francis._
+
+   "He was filled with a great and special devotion and love for the
+   servant of God. He granted all his petitions, and promised to
+   grant him still greater things. He approved the Rule, gave him a
+   mission to preach penance, and granted to all the lay brothers in
+   the company of the servant of God to wear a tonsure smaller than
+   that worn by priests, and freely to preach the Word of God."
+
+Giotto, in his fresco, has to represent the most important event in
+the life of the saint--his arrival at the papal court when he comes
+face to face with one of the greatest of the Roman Pontiffs; and by
+the simplest possible means the scene is brought before us. Here are
+no crimson-robed cardinals, no gilded papal throne; the bishops
+grouped behind Innocent are hardly noticed, or even the brethren who,
+with hands clasped as though in prayer, press closely to their leader
+like a flock of sheep round their shepherd. The eye is so fixed upon
+the two central figures, that all else fades away. Giotto has seized
+the supreme moment when the Pope, having overcome his fear lest St.
+Francis should falter in a life of poverty and prove to be only
+another heretical leader of which Italy had already too many, is, with
+kingly gesture, giving the Umbrian penitent authority to preach
+throughout the land. St. Francis, holding out his hand to receive his
+simple Rule, now bearing the papal seals, looks up with steady gaze;
+he is the most humble among men kneeling at the feet of Rome's
+sovereign, but strong in love, in faith and in knowledge of the
+righteousness of his mission. M. Paul Sabatier has beautifully
+illustrated the meaning of Giotto when he writes: "On pourrait croire
+que le peintre avait trempé ses lèvres dans la coupe du Voyant
+Calabrais [Joachim de Flore] et qu'il a voulu symboliser dans
+l'attitude de ces deux hommes la rencontre des représentants de deux
+âges de l'humanité, celui de la Loi et celui de l'Amour."
+
+8. _Vision of the Friars at Rivo-Torto._
+
+   "Now while the brethren abode in the place aforesaid, the holy
+   man went on a certain Saturday into the city of Assisi, for he
+   was to preach on the Sunday morning in the Cathedral Church. And
+   being thus absent in body from his children, and engaged in
+   devout prayer to God (as was his custom throughout the night), in
+   a certain hut in the canon's garden, about midnight, whilst some
+   of the brethren were asleep and others watching in prayer, a
+   chariot of fire, of marvellous splendour, was seen to enter the
+   door, and thrice to pass hither and thither through the house;
+   ..."
+
+Giotto's was not a nature to find much enjoyment in the portrayal of
+such events as saints being carried aloft in fiery chariots, and in
+dealing with this miracle he dedicated all his power to representing
+the astonishment of the brethren who witness the vision at Rivo-Torto.
+Two talk together and point to St. Francis being borne across the
+heavens by crimson horses, one hastens to awaken his companions who
+are huddled together in their hut like tired dogs asleep, and another
+starts from his slumbers to hear the wondrous news.
+
+9. _Vision of Brother Pacifico._
+
+   "This friar being in company with the holy man, entered with him
+   into a certain deserted church, and there, as he was praying
+   fervently he fell into an ecstacy, and amid many thrones in
+   heaven he saw one more glorious than all the rest, adorned with
+   precious stones of most glorious brightness. And marvelling at
+   the surpassing brightness of that throne, he began anxiously to
+   consider within himself who should be found worthy to fill it.
+   Then he heard a voice saying to him: 'This was the throne of one
+   of the fallen angels, and now it is reserved for the humble
+   Francis.'"
+
+With what devotion St. Francis, his hands crossed upon his breast,
+prays upon the steps of the altar, while the friar behind is intent on
+asking questions about the marvellous thrones he sees poised above his
+head. Nothing can exceed the grace of the wide-winged angel floating
+down to earth to record the humility of Francis, his garments slightly
+spread by his movement through the air.
+
+10. _St. Francis chases the Devils away from Arezzo._
+
+   "In order to disperse these seditious powers of the air, he sent
+   as his herald Brother Sylvester, a man simple as a dove, saying
+   to him: 'Go to the gates of the city, and there in the Name of
+   Almighty God command the demons by virtue of holy obedience, that
+   without delay they depart from that place....'"
+
+The main facts of the legend are followed closely in this fresco, but
+St. Bonaventure does not tell us how the miracle was performed, while
+Giotto, understanding the soul of Francis, paints him kneeling outside
+the gates of Arezzo praying with intense fervour for the salvation of
+the city. His faith is so strong that he does not even look up like
+Brother Sylvester, to see the demons flee away; some springing from
+off the chimneys, others circling above the towers, their bat-like
+wings outspread. The figure of Brother Sylvester is very fine, and the
+way he is lifting his tunic and stepping forward, as he stretches out
+one arm with a gesture of command towards the demons, could not be
+rendered with more ease and truth.
+
+11. _St. Francis and Brother Illuminatus before the Sultan of Egypt._
+
+   "When they had gone a little further, they met with a band of
+   Saracens, who, quickly falling upon them, like wolves upon a
+   flock of sheep, cruelly seized and bound the servants of God ...
+   having in many ways afflicted and oppressed them, they were ...
+   according to the holy man's desire, brought into the presence of
+   the Sultan. And being questioned by that prince whence and for
+   what purpose they had come ... the servant of Christ, being
+   enlightened from on high, answered him thus: 'If thou and thy
+   people will be converted to Christ I will willingly abide with
+   thee. But if thou art doubtful whether or not to forsake the law
+   of Mohamed for the faith of Christ, command a great fire to be
+   lighted, and I will go into it with thy priests, that it may be
+   known which faith should be held to be the most certain and the
+   most holy.' To whom the Sultan made answer: 'I do not believe
+   that any of my priests would be willing to expose himself to the
+   fire or to endure any manner of torment in defence of his faith.'
+   Then said the holy man: 'If thou wilt promise me for thyself and
+   thy people that thou wilt embrace the worship of Christ if I come
+   forth unharmed, I will enter the fire alone.' ... But the Sultan
+   answered that he dared not accept this challenge, because he
+   feared a sedition of the people."
+
+This subject, from its dramatic interest, appealed to Giotto, giving
+full scope to his powers, both as a story-teller, and as a painter
+with such genius for portraying dignity and nobility of character. The
+principal persons, the Sultan and St. Francis, are here clearly placed
+before us as Giotto wished us to conceive them, and how correctly he
+realised their characters we learn from the chronicles of the time.
+"We saw," writes Jacques de Vitry in one of his letters, "Brother
+Francis arrive, who is the founder of the Minorite Order; he was a
+simple man, without letters, but very lovable and dear to God as well
+as to men. He came while the army of the Crusaders was under
+Damietta, and was much respected by all." This is indeed the man
+depicted by Giotto in the slight figure of the preacher standing at
+the foot of the marble throne, so humble, yet full of that secret
+power which won even the Sultan's admiration. But though the story
+centres in St. Francis, the person Giotto wishes all to notice is the
+Sultan, who, far from being an ignorant heathen to be converted,
+conveys the idea of a most noble and kingly person, Malek Camel in
+short, known throughout the East as the "Perfect Prince." His mollahs
+had wished to kill St. Francis and his companion, and the fine answer
+he made was worthy of his high character. "Seigneurs," he said,
+addressing his visitors, "they have commanded me by Mahomet and by the
+law to have your heads cut off. For thus the law commands; but I will
+go against the order, or else I should render you bad guerdon for
+having risked death to save my soul."
+
+Giotto has chosen the most dramatic moment when St. Francis offers to
+go through the ordeal by fire with the mahommedan priests, to prove
+the power of the Christian God. With one look back upon the fire the
+mollahs gather their robes around them and hurriedly leave the
+Sultan's presence; St. Francis points towards the flames as though he
+were assuring the Sultan that they will not hurt him, while the friar
+behind gazes contemptuously after the retreating figures of the
+mollahs.
+
+Dante and Milton in their different ways were able to give us a vivid
+idea of fire, flame and heat, and so would Giotto have done had he
+expressed his ideas by words instead of in painting; but he was wise
+enough not to attempt it in his fresco, and so in lieu of a blaze of
+crimson flames we have only what looks like a stunted red cypress,
+realistic enough to make us understand the story without drawing our
+attention away from the main interest of the scene. In this fresco we
+are again reminded of the simple methods, grand and impressive by
+their very straightforwardness, by which he brings before us so
+strange a scene and accentuates the importance of an event in his own
+individual way.
+
+12. _Ecstasy of St. Francis._
+
+This legend is not recounted by St. Bonaventure, Celano, or in _The
+Three Companions_, but there is a tradition of how St. Francis one day
+in divine communion with God, was wrapt in ecstasy and his companions
+saw him raised from the ground in a cloud. All that is human in the
+scene Giotto has done as well as possible, but he evidently found it
+hard to realise how St. Francis would have looked rising up in a
+cloud, so he has devoted himself to rendering truthfully the
+astonishment of the disciples who witness the miracle.
+
+13. _The Institution of the Feast at Greccio._
+
+   "... in order to excite the inhabitants of Greccio to commemorate
+   the nativity of the Infant Jesus with great devotion, he
+   determined to keep it with all possible solemnity; and lest he
+   should be accused of lightness or novelty, he asked and obtained
+   the permission of the sovereign Pontiff. Then he prepared a
+   manger, and brought hay, an ox and an ass to the place appointed.
+   The brethren were summoned, the people ran together, the forest
+   resounded with their voices, and that venerable night was made
+   glorious by many brilliant lights and sonorous psalms of praise.
+   The man of God stood before the manger, full of devotion and
+   piety, bathed in tears and radiant with joy; many masses were
+   said before it, and the Holy Gospel was chanted by Francis, the
+   Levite of Christ.... A certain valiant and veracious soldier,
+   Master John of Greccio, who, for the love of Christ, had left the
+   warfare of this world, and become a dear friend of the holy man,
+   affirmed that he beheld an Infant marvellously beautiful sleeping
+   in that manger, whom the blessed Father Francis embraced with
+   both his arms, as if he would awake him from sleep."
+
+Besides the wonderful way in which Giotto has succeeded, to use the
+words of Mr Roger Fry, "in making visible, as it were, the sudden
+thrill which penetrates an assembly at a moment of supreme
+significance," there is the further interest of knowing that the scene
+of the Nativity arranged by St. Francis at Greccio, was the first of
+the mystery plays represented in Italy which were the beginning of the
+Italian drama. Giotto makes not only Master John of Greccio see the
+miracle of the Holy Child lying in the saint's arms and smiling up
+into his face, but also those who accompany him and some of the
+friars, while the other brethren, singing with mouths wide open like
+young birds awaiting their food, are much too occupied to notice what
+passes around them. A group of women, their heads swathed in white
+veils, are entering at the door, and the whole scene is one of
+animation and festivity. The marble canopy, with tall marble columns
+and gabled towers, over the altar is one of Giotto's most exquisite
+and graceful designs. But Giotto the shepherd has not succeeded so
+happily in depicting an ox which lies at the saint's feet like a
+purring cat.
+
+14. _The Miracle of the Water._
+
+   "Another time, when the man of God wished to go to a certain
+   desert place, that he might give himself the more freely to
+   contemplation, being very weak, he rode upon an ass belonging to
+   a poor man. It being a hot summer's day, the poor man, as he
+   followed the servant of Christ, became weary with the long way
+   and the steep ascent, and beginning to faint with fatigue and
+   burning thirst, he called after the saint: 'Behold,' he said, 'I
+   shall die of thirst unless I can find a little water at once to
+   refresh me.' Then without delay the man of God got off the ass,
+   and kneeling down with his hands stretched out to heaven, he
+   ceased not to pray till he knew he was heard."
+
+Giotto has here rendered the aridity of the summit of La Vernia, its
+pinnacles of rocks with stunted trees. Two friars, by now quite
+accustomed to miracles, converse together as they lead the donkey from
+which St. Francis has dismounted to pray that the thirsty man's wishes
+may be gratified. The grouping of the figures repeat the pointed lines
+of the landscape, and the whole is harmonious and of great charm of
+composition. It was justly admired by Vasari, who thought the peasant
+drinking was worthy of "perpetual praise." Florentine writers were
+continually harping on what they considered to be Giotto's claim to
+immortality, his genius for portraying nature so that his copy seemed
+as real as life, an opinion shared by Vasari when he gives his reason
+for admiring this particular fresco. "The eager desire," he says,
+"with which the man bends down to the water is portrayed with such
+marvellous effect, that one could almost believe him to be a living
+man actually drinking."
+
+Over the door is a medallion of the Madonna and Child which once was
+by Giotto, but now, alas, the eyes of faith must see his handiwork
+through several layers of paint with which restorers have been allowed
+to cover it. A slightly sardonic smile has been added to the Madonna,
+and to appreciate what is left of her charm it is necessary to look at
+her from the other end of the church, where the beauty of line and
+composition can still be discerned notwithstanding the barbarous
+treatment she has undergone.
+
+15. _St. Francis Preaching to the Birds at Bevagna._
+
+   "When he drew near to Bevagna, he came to a place where a great
+   multitude of birds of different kinds were assembled together,
+   which, when they saw the holy man, came swiftly to the place, and
+   saluted him as if they had the use of reason. They all turned
+   towards him and welcomed him; those which were on the trees bowed
+   their heads in an unaccustomed manner, and all looked earnestly
+   at him, until he went to them and seriously admonished them to
+   listen to the Word of the Lord.... While he spoke these and
+   other such words to them, the birds rejoiced in a marvellous
+   manner, swelling their throats, spreading their wings, opening
+   their beaks, and looking at him with great attention."
+
+This theme has been treated by another artist in the Lower Church,
+with little success as we have seen; it is also sometimes introduced
+in the predellas of big pictures of the school of Cimabue; but it
+remained for Giotto to give us a picture as beautiful in colour as
+those left by the early chroniclers in words. He never painted it
+again on a large scale, and the small representation in the predella
+of the picture in the Louvre follows the Assisan fresco in every
+detail. Two friars whose brown habits are tinted with mauve, one tree,
+a blue, uncertain landscape and some dozen birds, are all he thought
+necessary to explain the story, and yet the whole poetry of St.
+Francis' life is here, the keynote of his character, which has made
+him the most beloved among saints, and the man who though poor,
+unlettered and often reviled, was to herald the coming of a new age in
+religion, art and literature. With what love he bends towards his
+little feathered brethren as he beckons them to him, and they gather
+fearlessly round him while he points to the skies and tells them in
+simple words their duties towards their Creator.
+
+Another Florentine, Benozzo Gozzoli, painted this subject; there
+across the Assisan valley at Montefalco we can see it. His birds are
+certainly better drawn, there are more of them too, and we can even
+amuse ourselves by distinguishing among them golden orioles,
+blackbirds, doves and wood pigeons, but no one would hesitate to say
+that real charm and poetry are missing. Giotto's fresco, painted 600
+years ago, is somewhat faded and many of the birds are partly effaced,
+but we do not feel it matters much what they are--we only love the
+fact that St. Francis called the Umbrian birds around him and preached
+them a sermon with the same care as if he had been in the presence of
+a pope, and that Giotto believed the legend and took pains with his
+work, intending that we also should believe and understand something
+of the sweetness of this Umbrian scene.
+
+16. _Death of the Knight of Celano._
+
+   "When the holy man came into the soldier's house all the family
+   rejoiced greatly to receive this poor one of the Lord. And before
+   he began to eat, according to his custom, the holy man offered
+   his usual prayers and praises to God, with his eyes raised to
+   heaven. When he had finished his prayer, he familiarly called his
+   kind host aside, and said to him: 'Behold, my host and brother,
+   in compliance with thy prayers I have come to eat in thy house.
+   But now attend to that which I say to thee, for thou shalt eat no
+   more here, but elsewhere. Therefore, confess thy sins with truly
+   penitent contrition; let nothing remain in thee unrevealed by
+   true confession, for the Lord will requite thee to-day for the
+   kindness with which thou hast received His poor servant.' The
+   good man believed these holy words, and disclosing all his sins
+   in confession to the companion of St. Francis, he set all his
+   house in order, making himself ready for death, and preparing
+   himself for it to the best of his power. They then sat down to
+   table, and the others began to eat, but the spirit of the host
+   immediately departed, according to the words of the man of God,
+   which foretold his sudden death."
+
+This is one of the most characteristic of Giotto's works, showing his
+power, unique at that time, of touching upon human sorrow with
+simplicity, truth and restraint. Here is no exaggerated gesture of
+grief, no feigned expression of surprise or false note to make us
+doubt the truth of the tragedy that has befallen the house of Celano.
+But the movement of the crowd of sorrowing people, the men gazing down
+on the dead knight, the women weeping, their fair hair falling
+about their shoulders, tell better than any restless movement the
+awful grief which fills their hearts. It has happened so suddenly that
+the friar still sits at table with his fork in his hand, while St.
+Francis hast just risen to go to the people's assistance, while a man
+in the Florentine dress turns to him seeming, from the gesture of his
+hand, to say: "See, your prophecy has been fulfilled but too soon."
+
+  [Illustration: DEATH OF THE KNIGHT OF CELANO
+  (D. ANDERSON--_photo_)]
+
+17. _St. Francis preaches before Honorius III._
+
+   "Having to preach on a certain day before the Pope and the
+   cardinals, at the suggestion of the Cardinal of Ostia he learned
+   a sermon by heart, which he had carefully prepared; when he was
+   about to speak it for their edification he wholly forgot
+   everything he had to say, so that he could not utter a word. He
+   related with true humility what had befallen him, and then,
+   having invoked the aid of the Holy Spirit, he began at once to
+   move the hearts of these great men...."
+
+In this fine fresco Giotto has represented St. Francis holding his
+audience as though spell-bound by the power of his eloquence, and the
+contrast is great between the charming figure of the saint and that of
+the stern and earnest Pope, who, deep in thought, is leaning his chin
+on his hand, perhaps wondering at the strange chance which has brought
+the slight brown figure, so dusty and so poorly clad, so ethereal and
+so eloquent, into the midst of the papal court. It is delightful to
+study the faces and gestures of the listeners; some are all enthusiasm
+and interest, like the charming young cardinal in an orange-tinted
+robe, whose thoughts seem to be far away following where St. Francis'
+burning words are leading them; but the older man gazes critically at
+the saint, perhaps saying within himself: "What is this I hear, we
+must give up all, our fat benefices, our comfortable Roman palaces, to
+follow Christ"; and the cardinal on the right of the Pope also seems
+surprised at the new doctrines of love, poverty and sacrifice. Four
+others lean their heads on their hands; but how varied are the
+gestures, from the Pope, all eagerness and keen attention, to the
+cardinal bowing his head sadly thinking, like the man of great
+possessions, how pleasant it would be to become perfect, but how
+impossible it is to leave the goods of this world. St. Francis'
+companion is seated at his master's feet as though affirming, "I
+follow his teaching, and all he says is right."
+
+18. _The Apparition of St. Francis._
+
+   "For when the illustrious preacher and glorious Confessor,
+   Anthony, who is now with Christ, was preaching to the brethren in
+   the chapel at Arles on the title upon the Cross--'Jesus of
+   Nazareth, the King of the Jews'--a certain friar of approved
+   virtue named Monaldus, casting his eyes by divine inspiration
+   upon the door of the chapter-house, beheld, with his bodily eyes,
+   the blessed Francis raised in the air, blessing the brethren,
+   with his arms outstretched in the form of a Cross."
+
+The friars sit in various attitudes of somewhat fatigued attention
+before St. Anthony who is standing, and none seem as yet to be aware
+of the apparition of St. Francis, who appears at the open door under a
+Gothic archway, the blue sky behind him. There is a strange feeling of
+peace about the scene.
+
+19. _The Stigmata._
+
+               "... On the hard rock,
+     'Twixt Arno and the Tiber, he from Christ
+     Took the last signet, which his limbs two years
+     Did carry...."[99]
+
+This fresco is unhappily much ruined; enough however remains to trace
+a close resemblance to Giotto's predella of the same subject now in
+the Louvre, but where the solemnity of the scene is increased by the
+saint being alone with the Seraph upon La Vernia.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It may be well here to give some of the various opinions as to the
+authorship of these frescoes, though in this small book it is
+impossible to go at all deeply into the subject. Some, following Baron
+von Rumohr, hold that the only paintings in the Upper Church by
+Giotto, are the two by the door, the _Miracle of the Water_ and the
+_Sermon to the Birds_, while Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle give also
+the first of the series and the last five to him, but while "youthful
+and feeling his way," and all the rest to Gaddo Gaddi, or maybe
+Filippo Rusutti. Lastly, Mr Bernhard Berenson is of opinion that
+Giotto's style is to be clearly traced from the first fresco, _St.
+Francis honoured by the Simpleton_, to the nineteenth, _The Stigmata_;
+and they show so much affinity to the work of the great Florentine in
+Sta. Croce and elsewhere, that it is impossible not to agree with him.
+In the remaining frescoes, representing the death and miracles of St.
+Francis, he sees a close resemblance to the work of the artist who
+painted in the chapel of St. Nicholas (Lower Church), and who may have
+aided Giotto in the Upper Church before being chosen to continue his
+master's work.
+
+20. _Death of St. Francis._
+
+   "The hour of his departure being at hand, he commanded all the
+   brethren who were in that place to be called to him, and
+   comforted them with consoling words concerning his death,
+   exhorting them with fatherly affection to the divine love....
+   When he had finished these loving admonitions, this man, most
+   dear to God, commanded that the Book of the Gospels should be
+   brought to him, and ... his most holy soul being set free and
+   absorbed in the abyss of the divine glory, the blessed man slept
+   in the Lord."
+
+This fresco has suffered from the damp and all that clearly remains
+are the angels, in whom the artist's feeling for graceful movement is
+shown, their flight down towards the dead recalling the rush of the
+swallows' wings as they circle in the evening above the towers of San
+Francesco.
+
+21. _The Apparitions of St. Francis._
+
+   "... Brother Augustine, a holy and just man, was minister of the
+   Friars at Lavoro: he being at the point of death, and having for
+   a long time lost the use of speech, exclaimed suddenly, in the
+   hearing of all who stood around: 'Wait for me, Father, wait for
+   me; I am coming with thee....'
+
+   "At the same time the Bishop of Assisi was making a devout
+   pilgrimage to the church of St. Michael, on Mount Gargano. To him
+   the Blessed Francis appeared on the very night of his departure,
+   saying: 'Behold I leave the world and go to Heaven.'"
+
+In one fresco the artist has represented two different scenes, the
+greater prominence being given to the dying friar surrounded by many
+brethren. In neither is shown the figure of St. Francis, as the artist
+probably thought that it would have been difficult to introduce the
+apparition twice. But while the gesture of the friar stretching out
+his arms and the arrangement of the others explain the story, it would
+be difficult, without St. Bonaventure's legend, to know the feelings
+of the bishop who is so calmly sleeping in the background.
+
+22. _The Incredulous Knight of Assisi._
+
+   "... when the holy man had departed from this life, and his
+   sacred spirit had entered its eternal house ... many of the
+   citizens of Assisi were admitted to see and kiss the Sacred
+   Stigmata. Among these was a certain soldier, a learned and
+   prudent man, named Jerome, held in high estimation in the city,
+   who, doubting the miracle of the Sacred Stigmata, and being
+   incredulous like another Thomas, more boldly and eagerly than the
+   rest moved the nails in the presence of his fellow-citizens, and
+   touched with his own hands the hands and feet of the holy man;
+   and while he thus touched these palpable signs of the wounds of
+   Christ, his heart was healed and freed from every wound of
+   doubt."
+
+This fresco is so much ruined that it is difficult to enjoy it as a
+whole, but some of the figures of the young acolytes bearing lighted
+torches, and the priests reading the service and sprinkling the body
+with holy water, are very life-like.
+
+23. _The Mourning of the Nuns of San Damiano._
+
+   "Passing by the church of St. Damian, where that noble virgin,
+   Clare, now glorious in heaven, abode with the virgins her
+   sisters, the holy body, adorned with celestial jewels [the marks
+   of the Stigmata], remained there awhile, till those holy virgins
+   could see and kiss them."
+
+This, the loveliest of the last nine frescoes, recalls the one in St.
+Nicholas' Chapel of the three prisoners imploring the saint's
+protection; even to the basilica which forms the background of both.
+Considering that it is the last farewell of St. Clare and her
+companions to St. Francis the artist might have given a more tragic
+touch to the scene, but all is made subservient to the rendering of
+graceful figures, like the charming nuns who talk together as they
+hasten out of San Damiano, whose humble façade of stone the artist has
+transformed into a building of marble and mosaic almost rivalling the
+glories of such cathedrals as Siena and Orvieto. St. Clare stoops to
+kiss the saint while priests and citizens wait to resume their hymns
+of praise, and a small child climbs up a tree and tears down branches
+to strew upon the road in front of the bier.[100]
+
+24. _The Canonisation of St. Francis._
+
+   "The Sovereign Pontiff, Gregory IX, ... determined with pious
+   counsel and holy consideration to pay to the holy man that
+   veneration and honour of which he knew him to be most worthy ...
+   and coming himself in person to the city of Assisi in the year of
+   our Lord's Incarnation, 1228, on Sunday the 6th of July, with
+   many ceremonies and great solemnity, he inscribed the Blessed
+   Father in the catalogue of the saints."
+
+This fresco is so ruined that it is impossible to form any idea of its
+composition; about the only object clearly to be seen is the
+sepulchral urn of St. Francis, represented beneath an iron grating in
+the church of San Giorgio.
+
+25. _The Dream of Gregory IX, at Perugia._
+
+   "On a certain night, then, as the Pontiff was afterwards wont to
+   relate with many tears, the Blessed Francis appeared to him in a
+   dream, and with unwonted severity in his countenance, reproving
+   him for the doubt which lurked in his heart, raised his right
+   arm, discovered the wound, and commanded that a vessel should be
+   brought to receive the blood which issued from his side. The
+   Supreme Pontiff still in vision, brought him the vessel, which
+   seemed to be filled even to the brim with the blood which flowed
+   from his side."
+
+We are here left with an impression that the artist was hampered by
+not having enough figures for his composition, and the four men seated
+on the ground and guarding the Pope, compare unfavourably with
+Giotto's fresco of the three grand watchers by Innocent III, upon the
+opposite wall.
+
+16. _St. Francis cures the Wounded Man._
+
+   "It happened in the city of Ilerda, in Catalonia, that a good
+   man, named John, who was very devout to St. Francis, had to pass
+   through a street, in which certain men were lying in wait to kill
+   him and ... wounded him with so many dagger-strokes as to leave
+   him without hope of life.... The poor man's cure was considered
+   impossible by all the physicians.... And, behold, as the sufferer
+   lay alone on his bed, frequently calling on the name of Francis
+   ... one stood by him in the habit of a Friar Minor, who, as it
+   seemed to him, came in by a window, and calling him by his name,
+   said, 'Because thou hast trusted in me, behold, the Lord will
+   deliver thee.'"
+
+The artist having here an incident less difficult to deal with than
+visions and dreams, betrays a certain humour in the stout figure of
+the doctor, who, as he leaves the room, turns to the two women as
+though saying, "He has begun to pray, as if that can help him when I
+have failed to cure him." Meantime St. Francis, escorted by two tall
+and graceful angels with great wings, is laying his hands upon the
+wounded man. Here, as in most of these latter frescoes, a single scene
+is divided into more than one episode; this seems to us to be the
+great difference between them and the works of Giotto, where the eye
+is immediately attracted towards the principal figure or figures, the
+others only serving to complete the composition.
+
+27. _The last Confession of the Woman of Benevento._
+
+   "... a certain woman who had a special devotion to St. Francis,
+   went the way of all flesh. Now, all the clergy being assembled
+   round the corpse to keep the accustomed vigils, and say the usual
+   psalms and prayers, suddenly that woman rose on her feet, in
+   presence of them all, on the bier where she lay, and calling to
+   her one of the priests ... 'Father,' she said, 'I wish to
+   confess. As soon as I was dead, I was sent to a dreadful dungeon,
+   because I had never confessed a certain sin which I will now make
+   known to you. But St. Francis, whom I have ever devoutly served,
+   having prayed for me, I have been suffered to return to the body,
+   that having revealed that sin, I may be made worthy of eternal
+   life.' ... She made her confession, therefore, trembling to the
+   priest, and having received absolution, quietly lay down on the
+   bier, and slept peacefully in the Lord."
+
+The legend is dramatic and the artist has not failed to make us feel
+the great sadness and solemnity of the scene. A moment more, and the
+group of people to the left will come forward to carry the woman away
+for burial while the relations weep most bitterly; they stand aside
+with heads bowed in grief, for already the presence of death is felt.
+Only the sorrow of the child, who stretches out his arms, has passed
+away upon seeing her rise to speak with the priest. Very tall and
+slender are the figures of the women, bending and swaying together
+like flowers in a gentle breeze.
+
+28. _St. Francis releases Peter of Alesia from Prison._
+
+   "When Pope Gregory IX, was sitting in the chair of St. Peter, a
+   certain man named Peter, of the city of Alesia, on an accusation
+   of heresy, was carried to Rome, and, by command of the same
+   Pontiff, was given in custody to the Bishop of Tivoli. He, having
+   been charged to keep him in safety ... bound him with heavy
+   chains and imprisoned him in a dark dungeon.... This man began to
+   call with many prayers and tears upon St. Francis ... beseeching
+   him to have mercy upon him.... About twilight on the vigil of his
+   feast, St. Francis mercifully appeared to him in prison, and,
+   calling him by his name, commanded him immediately to arise....
+   Then, by the power of the presence of the holy man, he beheld the
+   fetters fall broken from his feet, and the doors of the prison
+   were unlocked without anyone to open them, so that he could go
+   forth unbound and free."
+
+Everything here gives the impression of height; the tall slim figures,
+the high doorway, and the slender tower and arches. St. Francis is
+seen flying up to the skies with the same swift motion the artist has
+given to the figure of St. Nicholas in the Lower Church, and the
+"Greek Chorus" to the left serves to show surprise at the unusual
+occurrence of a prisoner suddenly emerging from his prison with broken
+fetters in his hands.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+None should leave the church without looking at the stalls in the
+choir; they are by Domenico da San Severino, made in 1501, by order,
+as an inscription tells us, of Francesco Sansone, General of the
+franciscan order, and friend of Sixtus IV. The artist only took ten
+years to execute this really wonderful work; the intarsia figures of
+the stalls in pale yellow wood, most of them fancy portraits of the
+companions of St. Francis, are remarkable for their form and
+character. They betray, in the opinion of Mr Berenson, Venetian
+influences of Crivelli and of the school of the Vivarini.
+
+  [Illustration: ARMS OF THE FRANCISCANS FROM THE INTARSIA OF THE
+  STALLS]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[95] St. Bonaventure was born in 1221 at Bagnora in Umbria, and became
+General of the franciscan order. Dante, in canto xii. of the
+_Paradiso_, leaves him to sing the praises of St. Dominic, just as the
+dominican divine St. Thomas Aquinas had related the story of St.
+Francis in the preceding canto.
+
+[96] We have used Miss Lockhart's translation of St. Bonaventure's
+_Legenda Santa Francisci_.
+
+[97] J. Ruskin, _Mornings in Florence_, iii. Before the Soldan.
+
+[98] xi. _Paradiso_, Cary's translation.
+
+[99] Dante, _Paradiso_, xi., Cary's translation.
+
+[100] A comparison may be made between the long and slender body of
+the saint here with that in the death of St. Francis in Sta. Croce,
+where the body is firmly drawn and of more massive proportions.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+_St. Clare at San Damiano. The Church of Santa Chiara._
+
+   "Comme les fleurs, les âmes ont leur parfum qui ne trompe
+   jamais."--P. SABATIER. _Vie de S. François d'Assise_.
+
+
+The days of St. Clare from the age of eighteen until her death in 1253
+were passed within the convent walls of San Damiano, and though
+peaceful enough, for a mediæval lady, they were full of events and
+varied interest.
+
+She was born on the 10th of July 1194 in Assisi of noble parents, her
+father being Count Favorino Scifi (spelt also Scefi) the descendant of
+an ancient Roman family who owned a large palace in the town, and a
+castle on the slope of Mount Subasio to the east of the ravine where
+the Carceri lie among the ilex woods. The castle gave the title of
+Count of Sasso Rosso to its owners, and was the cause of much
+skirmishing between the Scifi and the Ghislerio who were continually
+wresting it from each other, until in 1300, during one of these
+struggles, the walls were razed to the ground and no one sought
+afterwards to repair its ruins. Of Sasso Rosso a few stones still
+remain, which, as they catch the morning light, are seen from Assisi
+like a grey crag projecting from the mountain, high above the road to
+Spello. When not fighting beneath the walls of his castle Count
+Favorino was generally away on some skirmishing expedition, and during
+his absences, his wife, the Lady Ortolana of the noble family of the
+Fiumi, would depart upon a pilgrimage to the south of Italy or even to
+the Holy Land.[101] An old writer remarks that her name "Ortolana
+(market gardener) was very appropriate, because from her, as from a
+well-tended orchard, sprang most noble plants." After her return from
+Palestine she one night heard a voice speaking these prophetic words
+to which she listened with great awe. "Be not afraid Ortolana, for
+from thee shall arise a light so bright and clear that the darkness of
+the earth shall be illuminated thereby." So the daughter who was born
+soon after was called Chiara in memory of the divine message. With so
+pious a mother it is not surprising that Clare should have grown up
+thoughtful and fond of praying; we even hear of her seeking solitary
+corners in the palace where she would be found saying her rosary,
+using pebbles like the hermits of old instead of beads upon a chain.
+But her evident inclination for a religious life in no way alarmed
+Count Favorino, who had made up his mind that she should marry a
+wealthy young Assisan noble, for even at an early age she showed great
+promise of beauty. "Her face was oval," says a chronicler, "her
+forehead spacious, her complexion brilliant, and her eyebrows and hair
+very fair. A celestial smile played in her eyes and around her mouth;
+her nose was well-proportioned and slightly aquiline; of good stature
+she was rather inclined to stoutness, but not to excess." A little
+while and her fate in life would have been sealed in the ordinary way,
+and she would have continued to look out upon the world through the
+barred windows of some old Assisan palace; but great changes were
+being wrought in the town even when Clare had just passed into
+girlhood. With the rest of her fellow-citizens, rich and poor, she was
+destined to feel the potent influence of one who suddenly appeared in
+their midst like an inspired prophet of old, calling on all to repent,
+and picturing higher ideals in life than any had hitherto dreamed of.
+Although her first meeting with St. Francis has not been recorded by
+any early biographer, we may be sure that from the age of fourteen,
+and perhaps even before, the story of his doings had been familiar to
+her, for the stir his conversion made among the people, his quarrels
+with his father, and the many followers he gained, even among the
+nobles, were of too extraordinary a nature to pass without comment in
+the family of the Scifi.[102] Their palace being near the Porta Nuova
+it is certain that Clare and her younger sister Agnes must have often
+seen St. Francis pass on his way to San Damiano, carrying the bricks
+which he had begged from door to door to repair its crumbling walls,
+and heard him scoffed at by the children and cursed by his angry
+father. As his fame as a preacher grew the Scifi family hurried with
+the rest to listen to his sermons in the cathedral, or perhaps even in
+the market-place, where he would stand upon the steps of the old
+temple and gather the peasants around him on a market day. But the
+decisive time arrived in the year 1212, when St. Francis, by then the
+acknowledged founder of a new order sanctioned by the Pope, and no
+longer jeered at as a mad enthusiast, came to preach during Lent in
+the church of San Giorgio. It was the parish church of the Scifi, and
+the whole family attended every service. Clare was then eighteen,
+young enough to be carried away by the words of the franciscan and
+build for herself a life outside her present existence; old enough to
+have felt unbearable the trammels of a degraded age, and to long,
+during those years of warfare to which all the cities of the valley
+were subjected, for an escape to where peace and purity could be
+found. Only dimly she saw her way to a perfect love of Christ. The
+preacher's words were addressed to all, but she felt them as an
+especial call to herself, and unhesitatingly she resolved to seek out
+the friar at the Portiuncula and ask his help and counsel in what was
+no easy task. Instinctively knowing her mother could be of no aid,
+even if she sympathised in her cravings for a more spiritual life, she
+gained the confidence of her aunt, Bianca Guelfucci, who all through
+played her part regardless of Count Favorino's possible revenge.
+
+Even during the first two years of his mission St. Francis was
+accustomed to receive many men who wished to leave home and comforts,
+and tramp along the country roads with him, but when the young Chiara
+Scifi threw herself at his feet imploring him to help her to enter
+upon a new way of life, his heart was troubled, and, reflecting on
+what wide results his preaching was taking, fear even may have formed
+part of his surprise. Bernard of Quintavalle he had bidden sell all
+that he had, distribute it to the poor, and join him at the leper
+houses; but before allowing Clare to take the veil he sought to prove
+her vocation beyond a doubt, and bade her go from door to door through
+the town begging her bread, clad in rough sack-cloth with a hood drawn
+about her face. Her piety only increased until St. Francis, believing
+that he was called upon to help her, resolved to act the part of the
+spiritual knight errant.
+
+  [Illustration: DOOR THROUGH WHICH ST. CLARE LEFT THE PALAZZO SCIFI]
+
+On Palm Sunday, arrayed in their richest clothes, the members of the
+Scifi and the Fiumi families attended high mass in the cathedral, and
+with the rest of the citizens went up to receive the branches of
+palms. But to the astonishment of all Clare remained kneeling as if
+wrapt in a dream, and in vain the bishop waited for her to follow the
+procession to the altar. All eyes were upon her as the bishop, with
+paternal tenderness, came down from the altar steps to where the young
+girl knelt and placed the palm in her hand. That night Clare left her
+father's house for ever. A small door in the Scifi palace is still
+shown through which she is said to have escaped. It had been walled up
+for some time, but the fragile girl gifted that night with superhuman
+strength and courage, tore down timber and stones and joined Bianca
+Guelfucci, who was waiting with some trembling maidservants where the
+arch spans the street, to accompany her to the Portiuncula (see p.
+104). Great was the consternation in the family when next morning her
+flight was discovered, and news came that she had found shelter in the
+benedictine convent near Bastia. Count Favorino and his wife lost no
+time in following her, fully persuaded that by threats or entreaties
+they would be able to induce her to return home and marry the man of
+her father's choice; but they knew little of the strength of character
+which lay hidden beneath the gentle nature of the eldest and hitherto
+most docile of their daughters. The violent words of her father and
+the tears of her mother in no way shook Clare's determination;
+approaching the altar she placed one hand upon it while with the other
+she raised her veil, and facing her parents showed them the close cut
+hair which marked her as the bride of Jesus Christ. No earthly power,
+she said, should sever her from the life she had chosen of her own
+free will, and crest-fallen they left the convent without another
+word. It was hardly surprising that Agnes, the second sister, who
+sometimes went to see St. Clare at Bastia, should wish to take the
+veil. At this the fury of Count Favorino knew no bounds, and he sent
+his brother Monaldo with several armed followers, among whom may have
+been Clare's slighted lover, to force Agnes, if persuasion failed, to
+abandon her vocation. She was at their mercy but refused to leave the
+convent, so they caught her by her long fair hair and dragged her
+across the fields towards the town, kicking her as they went; her
+cries filled the air, "Clare, my sister, help, so that I may not be
+taken from my heavenly spouse." The prayers of Clare were heard, for
+suddenly the slight form of the girl became as lead in the arms of the
+soldiers, and in vain they tried to lift her. Monaldo, beside himself
+with rage, drew his sword to strike her when his arm dropt withered
+and useless by his side. Clare, who had by this time come upon the
+scene, begged them to desist from their cruel acts, and cowed by what
+had happened they slunk away, leaving the sisters to return to the
+convent.
+
+St. Francis seeing the devotion and steady vocation of both Clare and
+Agnes, and doubtless foreseeing that many would follow their example,
+began to seek for some shelter where they could lead a life of prayer
+and labour. Again the Benedictines of Mount Subasio came forward with
+a gift, offering another humble sanctuary which the saint had repaired
+some years before. This was San Damiano, a chapel so old that none
+could tell its origin; the vague legend that it stands on the site of
+a pagan necropolis seems confirmed by a lofty fragment of Roman
+masonry which juts up on the roadside between the Porta Nuova and San
+Damiano. With his own hands St. Francis built a few rude cells near
+the chapel, resembling the cluster of huts by the Portiuncula, and
+here the "Poor Ladies" were to pass their days in prayer and manual
+labour. The little humble grey stone building among the olive trees
+with the pomgranates flowering against its walls, so different to a
+convent of the present day, must have seemed to Clare the realisation
+of a freer life than ever she had known before. Others felt its charm
+and before long several friends had joined her besides Bianca
+Guelfucci, while upon the death of Count Favorino, Madonna Ortolana
+received the habit from the hands of St. Francis together with her
+youngest daughter Beatrice. The fame of the order spread far and wide,
+gaining so many novices that several new houses were founded in Italy
+even during the first few years. In those early days St. Clare was
+given no written law to follow, but like the brethren she and her nuns
+learnt all the perfection of a religious life from St. Francis, who
+would often stop at San Damiano on his way to and from the town. He
+did not allow them to go beyond their boundaries, but a busy life was
+to be passed in their cells; owning nothing, they were to depend
+entirely upon what the brothers could beg for them in the town and
+country round, and when provisions were scarce they fasted. In return
+the nuns spun the grey stuff for the habits of the friars and the
+linen for their altars; and after St. Francis received the Stigmata,
+St. Clare fashioned sandals for him with space for the nails so that
+he might walk with more ease. Often the poor came to seek help at her
+hands, and many times the sick were tended in a little mud hut near
+her cell which she used as a hospital. Silently her life was passed,
+and to those who looked on from the outside perhaps it might have
+seemed of small avail compared with the very apparent results of St.
+Francis' endeavours to help his fellow creatures. But very quietly she
+was guiding the women of mediæval Italy towards higher aims, for even
+those who could not follow her into the cloister were aided in their
+lives at home by the thought of the pure-souled gentle nun of San
+Damiano. Not the least important part of her work was the womanly
+sympathy and help which she gave to St. Francis. He turned to her when
+in trouble, and it was she who encouraged him to continue preaching to
+the people when, at one time he thought that his vocation was to be a
+life of solitary prayer and not of constant contact with mankind. He
+counted on her prayers, and trusting in her counsel went forward once
+more to preach the words of redemption. From her lonely cell she
+watched his work with tender solicitude, and when blind and ill he
+came for the last time to San Damiano she tended to his wants in a
+little hut she erected for him not far from the convent whence, across
+the vineyard and olive grove which separated them, the first strains
+of his glorious Canticle to the Sun came to her one morning. Her
+gentle influence played an important part in his life, giving him a
+friendship which is one of the most beautiful things to dwell on in
+their lives. Some have sneered at its purity, and compared so ideal a
+connection to a commonplace mediæval tale of monk and nun; but it is
+degrading even to hint at such an ending to the love of these two for
+each other, and impossible to believe it after reading M. Sabatier's
+beautiful chapter on St. Clare, where he touches, in some of his most
+charming pages, upon a side of St. Francis' character that most
+biographers have but little understood.
+
+A beautiful story in the _Fioretti_ relates how once St. Clare,
+desiring greatly to eat with St. Francis, a boon he had never accorded
+her, was granted the request at the earnest prayer of the brethren,
+"and that she may be the more consoled," he said, "I will that this
+breaking of bread take place in St. Mary of the Angels; for she has
+been so long shut up in S. Damian that it will rejoice her to see
+again the House of Mary, where her hair was shorn off, and she became
+the bride of Christ." Once more St. Clare came to the plain of the
+Portiuncula, and the saint spoke so sweetly and eloquently of heavenly
+things that all remained wrapped in ecstacy, oblivious of the food
+which was spread before them on the floor and, as Clare dwelt in
+divine contemplation, a great flame sprang up and shrouded them in
+celestial light. The Assisans and the people of Bettona, looking down
+from their walls upon the plain, thought that the Portiuncula was on
+fire, and hurried to the assistance of their beloved saint. "But
+coming close to the House," says the _Fioretti_, "they entered within,
+and found St. Francis and St. Clare with all their company in
+contemplation wrapt in God as they sat round the humble board."
+Comforted by this spiritual feast St. Clare returned to San Damiano,
+where she was expected with great anxiety, as it had been imagined
+that St. Francis might have sent her to rule some other convent,
+"wherefore the sisters rejoiced exceedingly when they saw her face
+again." Those were peaceful and happy days, but sorrow came when news
+reached her that St. Francis was near his end; "she wept most
+bitterly, and refused to be comforted," for she too was ill, and
+feared to die before she could see his face again. This fear she
+signified through a brother unto the Blessed Francis, and when the
+saint, who loved her with a singular and paternal affection, heard it,
+he had pity on her; and considering that her desire to see him once
+more could not be fulfilled in the future, he sent her a letter with
+his benediction and absolving her from every fault.... "Go and tell
+sister Clare to lay aside all sadness and sorrow, for now she cannot
+see me, but of a truth before her death both she and her sisters shall
+see me and be greatly comforted." But the last she saw of him was
+through a lattice window, when they brought his dead body for the nuns
+to see and kiss the pierced hands and feet (see p. 119).
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+  [Illustration: SAN DAMIANO, SHOWING THE WINDOW WITH THE LEDGE WHENCE
+  ST. CLARE ROUTED THE SARACENS]
+
+A strange thing happened to disturb the peaceful serenity of their
+lives at San Damiano in the year 1234, when the army of Frederic II,
+was fighting in the north of Italy, and a detachment of Saracen troops
+under one of his generals, Vitale d'Anversa, came through Umbria,
+pillaging the country as they passed. Assisi was a desirable prey, as
+it had been to many before them, and coming to the convent of San
+Damiano they scaled its walls, preparatory to a final rush upon the
+town. The terror of the nuns may be imagined, and running to the cell
+where Clare lay ill in bed they cowered round her "like frightened
+doves when the hawk has stooped upon their dovecote." Taking the
+Blessed Sacrament, which she was allowed to keep in a little chapel
+next to her cell, she proceeded to face the whole army, trusting like
+St. Martin in the power of prayer and personal courage. As she walked
+towards the window overlooking the small courtyard a voice spoke to
+her from the ciborium saying, "Assisi will have much to suffer, but my
+arm shall defend her." Raising the Blessed Sacrament on high she stood
+at the open window, against which the soldiers had already placed a
+ladder; those who were ascending, as they looked up towards her, fell
+back blinded, while the others took to flight, and thus cloister and
+city were saved through the intercession of the gentle saint. Vitale
+d'Anversa, who had not been present at the prodigy, probably thinking
+the soldiers had failed in their enterprise through lack of valour,
+came with a still larger company of men, and led them in person to
+storm the town. St. Clare, hearing what peril encompassed Assisi, and
+being asked by the citizens to intercede with Heaven as the enemy had
+sworn to bury them beneath their city walls, gathered all her nuns
+about her, and knelt in prayer with them. At dawn the next morning a
+furious tempest arose, scattering the tents of the Saracens in every
+direction, and causing such a panic that they took refuge in hasty
+flight. The gratitude of the citizens increased their love for St.
+Clare, as all attributed their release to her prayers, and to this day
+she is regarded as the deliverer of her country.
+
+One cannot help regretting that while so many contemporary chroniclers
+have left detailed and varied accounts of St. Francis, they only
+casually allude to St. Clare, calling her "a sweet spring blossom," or
+"the chief rival of the Blessed Francis in the observance of Gospel
+perfection," but leaving later writers to form their own pictures of
+the saint. And the picture they give is always of a silent and
+prayerful nun, beautiful of feature, sweet and gentle of disposition,
+coming ever to the help of those who needed it, and acting the part of
+a guardian angel to the Assisans. Her horizon was bounded by the
+mountains of the Spoletan valley; and from the outside world, on which
+her influence worked so surely during her life and for long centuries
+after her death, only faint echoes reached her when a pope or a
+cardinal came to see her, or a princess wrote her a letter from some
+distant country. Among the many royal and noble people who had entered
+a Poor Clare sisterhood, or like St. Elizabeth of Hungary had joined
+the Third Order, was the Blessed Agnes, daughter of the King of
+Bohemia, who, kindled with a desire for a religious life upon hearing
+the story of St. Clare, refused the hand of Frederick II, and passed
+her life in a convent. Often she wrote to the Assisan abbess getting
+in reply most charming letters, beginning "To her who is dearer to me
+than any other mortal," or "To the daughter of the King of Kings, to
+the Queen of Virgins, to the worthy spouse of Jesus Christ; the
+unworthy servant of the poor nuns of San Damiano sends greetings and
+rejoicings in the good fortune of living always in the extremest
+poverty." These two never met, but their friendship was a close one,
+and their correspondence, of which many letters are preserved, ceased
+only with their death.
+
+St. Clare survived St. Francis twenty-seven years, and they were sad
+years for one, who, like her clung so devoutly to his rule and
+teaching. She lived to see the first divisions among the franciscans,
+and before she died the corner-stone of the great Basilica had been
+raised, filling her with dismay for the future, for in its very
+grandeur and beauty she saw the downfall of the franciscan ideal. Not
+only did she witness all these changes, but in her own convent she had
+many battles to fight for the preservation of the rule she loved, she
+even courageously opposed the commands of the Pope himself who wished
+to mould the nuns to his wishes as he had done the friars. Even during
+the lifetime of St. Francis, while he was absent on a distant
+pilgrimage, Gregory IX, then Cardinal Ugolino, persuaded St. Clare of
+the necessity of having a written rule, and gave her that of the
+Benedictine nuns. But when she found that, although it was strict
+enough, it allowed the holding of property in community, which was
+entirely against the spirit of her order, she refused to agree to the
+innovation. So upon the saint's return he composed a written rule for
+the sisters, so strict, it is said, that its perusal drew tears from
+the eyes of the Cardinal Ugolino. Still she had to fight the battle of
+loyalty to a dead saint's memory; for the very year that Gregory came
+to Assisi for the canonisation of St. Francis he paid a visit to St.
+Clare, and with earnest words endeavoured to persuade her to mitigate
+her rule. She held so firmly to her way that the Pope thought she
+might perhaps be thinking of the vow of poverty which she had made at
+the Portiuncula, and told her he could absolve her from it through the
+powers of his papal keys. Then Clare summoned all her courage as she
+faced the Pontiff, and said to him these simple words which showed
+him he need try no more to tempt her from duty, "Ah holy father," she
+cried, "I crave for the absolution of my sins, but I desire not to be
+absolved from following Jesus Christ."
+
+Gregory had often been puzzled by the unique unworldliness of St.
+Francis; his admiration for St. Clare was even more profound, and in
+reading his letters after leaving the franciscan abbess one forgets
+that he was over eighty at the time. With him she had gained her point
+once and for all, but upon his death she had to oppose the wishes of
+Innocent IV, who did all in his power to merge the franciscan order of
+Poor Clares into an ordinary Benedictine community. Again it ended in
+the triumph of St. Clare, and the day before her death she had the joy
+of receiving the news that the Pope had issued a papal bull
+sanctioning the rule for which both St. Francis and she had fought;
+namely, that they were to live absolutely poor without any worldly
+possession of any kind. "N'est-ce pas," says M. Sabatier, "un des plus
+beaux tableaux de l'histoire religieuse, que celui de cette femme qui,
+pendant plus d'un quart de siècle, soutient contre les papes qui se
+succèdent sur le trône pontifical une lutte de tous les instants; qui
+demeure également respectueuse et inébranlable, et ne consent à mourir
+qu'après avoir remporté la victoire?"
+
+St. Clare during the remaining years of her life suffered continually
+from ill-health, and it was from a bed of infirmity that she so
+ardently prayed the Pope to sanction her rule of poverty, and enjoined
+the sisterhood to keep its tenets faithfully. Like St. Francis, brave
+and cheerful to the last, she called her weeping companions around her
+to give them her final blessing and farewell. Among them knelt the
+Blessed Agnes, who had come from her nunnery in Florence to assist her
+sister, and the three holy brethren Leo, Angelo and Juniper. On the
+11th of August 1253, the feast of St. Rufino, as she was preparing to
+leave the world they heard her speak, but so softly that the words
+were lost to them. "Mother, with whom are you conversing?" asked one
+of the nuns, and she answered: "Sister, I am speaking with this little
+soul of mine, now blessed, to whom the glory of paradise is already
+opening."
+
+Then as the evening closed in and they were still watching, a great
+light was seen to fill the doorway leading from the oratory of St.
+Clare to her cell; and from out of it came a long procession of
+white-robed virgins led by the Queen of Heaven, whose head was crowned
+with a diadem of shining gold, and whose eyes sent forth such
+splendour as might have changed the night into the brightest day. And
+as each of the celestial visitors stooped to kiss St. Clare, the
+watching nuns knew that her soul had already reached its home.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Once the little chapel of San Damiano has been seen there can be no
+fear of ever forgetting the charm attached to the memory of St. Clare,
+for she has left there something of her own character and personality,
+which we feel instinctively without being able quite to explain its
+presence. So near the town, only just outside its walls, this little
+sanctuary yet remains as in the olden times, one of the most peaceful
+spots that could have been chosen for a nunnery; but the silence which
+falls upon one while resting on the stone seats before entering the
+courtyard, has this difference with the silence of such a piazza as
+that of San Rufino or of some of the Assisan streets; that there the
+buildings tell of an age which is dead whose memories raise no
+responsive echoes in our hearts, whereas San Damiano is filled with
+the associations of those who, living so long ago, yet have left the
+atmosphere of their presence as a living influence among us. As we
+look at the steep paths below us leading through the fields and the
+oak trees down to the plain, to Rivo-Torto and the Portiuncula, we
+think how often St. Francis went up and down it whenever he passed to
+see St. Clare and her sisters. And how many times did Brother Bernard
+come with messages when he lay dying, and news was anxiously awaited
+at San Damiano; then along the grass path skirting the hill from Porta
+Mojano were seen the crowds of nobles, townsfolk, peasants and friars
+bearing the dead body of the saint to San Giorgio, and pausing awhile
+at the convent for the love of St. Clare. A pope with all his
+cardinals next passes, on a visit to the young abbess; St. Bonaventure
+stops to ask her prayers; while the poor and the ill were ever
+knocking at the convent door to obtain her help or a word of kindly
+sympathy. In the Umbrian land it is so easy to realise these things,
+they are more than simply memories for those who have time to pause
+and dream awhile; and sometimes it has seemed, while reading the
+_Fioretti_ or Brother Leo's chronicle beneath the olive trees of San
+Damiano, that we have slipped back through the ages, and looking up we
+half expect to see the hurrying figure of St. Francis moving quickly
+in and out among the trees. Suddenly the low sound of chanting comes
+through the open door of the convent reaching us like the incessant
+drone of a swarm of bees in the sunshine, until it dies away, and
+brown-clothed, sandalled brethren pass out across the courtyard, and
+two by two disappear down the hill on their way to the Portiuncula.
+They bring a whole gallery of portraits before our eyes, of brethren
+we read of, the companions of St. Francis; but when we look along the
+path they have taken and see the church of the Angeli standing high in
+the midst of the broad valley, its dome showing dark purple against
+the afternoon light, where we had thought to catch a glimpse of the
+Portiuncula and a circle of mud huts, the dream of the olden time
+fades suddenly away. As we turn to enter the little church of San
+Damiano with the image of the great church of the plain still in our
+thoughts, we feel how much we owe to the reverence of the people and
+the friars who have kept it so simple and unadorned, its big stones
+left rough and weather-beaten as when St. Francis came to prepare a
+dwelling-house for sister Clare. Truly says M. Sabatier, "ce petit
+coin de terre ombrienne sera, pour nos descendants, comme ce puits de
+Jacob où Jésus s'assit un instant, un des parvis préférés du culte en
+esprit et en vérité."
+
+The church is very small and dim, with no frescoed walls or altar
+pictures to arouse the visitor's interest, and only its connection
+with the names of Francis and Clare bring the crowds who come to pray
+here. Even the crucifix which spoke to St. Francis, telling him to
+rebuild the ruined sanctuary, no longer hangs in the choir, but is now
+in the keeping of the nuns in Santa Chiara. A few relics are kept in
+the cupboard--a pectoral cross given by St. Bonaventure, the bell with
+which St. Clare called the sisters to office, her breviary written by
+Brother Leo in his neat, small writing, and the tabernacle of
+alabaster which she held up before the invading host of Saracens upon
+that memorable occasion. There is also a small loaf of bread which
+recalls the well-known story recounted in the _Fioretti_ (cap.
+xxxiii.) of how Pope Innocent IV, came to see St. Clare, "to hear her
+speak of things celestial and divine; and as they were thus
+discoursing together on diverse matters, St. Clare ordered dinner to
+be made ready, and the bread to be laid on the table so that the Holy
+Father might bless it; and when their spiritual conference was
+finished, St. Clare, kneeling most reverently, prayed him to bless the
+bread which was on the table. The Holy Father replied: 'Most faithful
+Sister Clare, I will that thou shouldst bless this bread and make upon
+it the sign of the most blessed Cross of Christ, to whom thou hast so
+entirely given thyself.' St. Clare said: 'Holy Father, pardon me, for
+I should be guilty of too great a presumption if in the presence of
+the Vicar of Christ, I, who am but a miserable woman, should presume
+to give such a benediction.' And the Pope answered: 'That this should
+not be ascribed to presumption, but to the merit of obedience, I
+command thee by holy obedience to make the sign of the Holy Cross on
+this bread, and to bless it in the name of God.' Then St. Clare, as a
+true daughter of obedience, most devoutly blessed that bread with the
+sign of the Holy Cross. And marvellous to say, incontinently on all
+the loaves the sign of the Holy Cross appeared most fairly impressed;
+then of that bread part was eaten and part kept for the miracle's
+sake."
+
+A ring belonging to St. Clare was also kept here, until in the year
+1615 a Spanish franciscan vicar-general with his secretary came to
+visit San Damiano, and such was his devotion for anything that had
+belonged to the saintly abbess that when a few months later the relics
+were being shown to some other visitors, the precious ring was
+missing. A great disturbance arose in the city, and angry letters were
+speedily sent after the Spanish priest as suspicion had fallen upon
+him at once; he did not deny that he had piously stolen the ring, but
+as it was now well upon its way to Spain where, he assured the irate
+Assisans, it would be much honoured and well cared for, he refused to
+return it. The citizens and friars still regret the day that the
+Spanish dignitary and his secretary called at San Damiano.
+
+The small chapel out of the nave was built in the middle of the
+seventeenth century to contain the large Crucifix which is still
+there, and whose story is very famous. In 1634 Brother Innocenzo of
+Palermo was sent to the convent to carve a crucifix for the friars,
+his sanctity and the talent he possessed as an artist being well
+known. After nine days he completed all except the head, and on
+returning next morning after early mass he found that mysterious hands
+had fashioned it during the night; not only was it of wonderful
+workmanship, but looking at it from three different points of view
+three different expressions were seen--of peace, of agony, and of
+death. The fame of the Crucifix spread throughout Umbria, and people
+flocked to San Damiano. "Now, the devil," says a chronicler, "very
+wrath to see such devotion in so many hearts, turned his mind to
+finding out some means of sowing seeds of discord. Through his doing
+there arose in Assisi a whisper that owing to the rapidly growing fame
+of this Crucifix, the ancient one of the cathedral would lose the
+veneration in which it had hitherto been held."
+
+Now before placing the Crucifix of San Damiano in its place over the
+high altar the monks settled that it should be carried in solemn
+procession through Assisi. "But," writes the angry chronicler, "those
+who had joined this diabolical conspiracy against our Crucifix were
+not slow to prevent this, and had recourse to the Inquisitor of
+Perugia, who was induced to send his vicar to stop the procession, and
+bid the monks of San Damiano to keep their Crucifix hidden and allow
+no one to see it." There arose a terrible storm in the troubled
+community of Assisi, between those who took the part of the
+"persecuted Crucifix" and those who sided with the jealous canons of
+the cathedral. Finally, the case was placed before the Pope himself,
+and all waited anxiously the result of his investigations. A duplicate
+of the Crucifix of San Damiano was sent to Rome that it might be well
+examined by the Pope and the whole college of cardinals, and they not
+finding in the pious Brother Innocenzio's work anything contrary to
+the teaching of the gospel, it was unanimously decreed that the
+Crucifix of San Damiano might receive all the homage and love of the
+friars and citizens. So on a burning Sunday in August solemn high mass
+was sung at the altar of St. Clare in San Damiano and, although the
+friars were defrauded of their procession, such was the concourse of
+people who came to gain the plenary indulgence granted by His Holiness
+that the good friars rejoiced, and were comforted for all the
+persecution they had suffered on account of this marvellous Crucifix.
+What must have been the feelings of Brother Innocenzo as he stood by
+the high altar and watched the crowd of worshippers and the women
+lifting up their streaming eyes to the crucifix he had fashioned in
+his cell? The devotion to it grew as the years passed on, and we read
+that a century later the monks were obliged "for their greater quiet
+to transfer it from the choir to the chapel," where it now is, after
+which the monks could say their office in peace. Now we see it
+surrounded with votive offerings, and our guide pours forth an
+incessant stream of praise, and recounts at length numberless
+miracles.
+
+Through the chapel of the Crucifix we reach the choir of St. Clare,
+left as when she used it, with the old worm-eaten stalls against the
+wall. It is probable that originally this was part of the house of the
+priest who had the keeping of San Damiano before the benedictines gave
+it to the Poor Clares; for here is shown the recess in the wall where
+St. Francis hid when his father came to seek for him, and where he is
+supposed to have lived in hiding for a whole month until the storm
+should have blown over. It was for the rebuilding of the chapel that
+he had taken bales of costly stuffs from the Bernardone warehouse in
+Assisi to sell at the fair of Foligno, and thus called forth the wrath
+of Messer Pietro. The good priest of San Damiano was so much
+astonished at this sudden conversion of Francis, that thinking he
+mocked him he refused to accept the purse of gold, which Francis
+finally threw on to a dusty window-sill. But the priest soon became
+his friend, allowing him to remain at San Damiano and partake of such
+humble fare as he could give, joining him in repairing of the poor
+ruined chapel.
+
+An artist of the sixteenth century had sought to adorn the altar with
+a fresco of the Crucifixion which was only discovered a few months
+ago, but the whitewashed walls and severe simplicity of the rest seem
+more in keeping with the place than this crude attempt at decoration.
+By a rough flight of stairs we reach the small private oratory of St.
+Clare, which communicated with her cell and where, in her latter days
+of illness, she was permitted to keep the Blessed Sacrament. The rest
+of the convent being strict "clausura," ever since the Marquess of
+Ripon bought San Damiano from the Italian Government and gave it into
+the keeping of the franciscan friars, can only be seen by men. Within
+is the refectory of St. Clare where Innocent IV, dined with her and
+witnessed the miracle of the loaves, and Eusebio di San Giorgio (1507)
+has painted in the cloister two fine frescoes of the Annunciation and
+St. Francis receiving the Stigmata.
+
+But anyone may step out into the small and charming garden of St.
+Clare which is on a level with her oratory. Walls rising on either
+side leave only a narrow vista of the valley where Bevagna, and
+Montefalco on her hill, can just be seen. Within this small enclosed
+space the saint is said to have taken her daily exercise and carefully
+attended to the flowers, and the friars to this day keep a row of
+flowers there in memory of her. It will be well on leaving the chapel
+of San Damiano to look at the open chapel in the courtyard where
+Tiberio d'Assisi has painted one of his most pleasing compositions.
+The Madonna is seated in an Umbrian valley, low lines of hills fade
+away in the distance, and franciscan saints, among whom St. Jerome
+with his lion seems curiously out of place, surround her, while at her
+feet is placed the kneeling figure of the nun who succeeded St. Clare
+as abbess. It is signed and dated 1517, while the fresco on the
+side-wall of St. Sebastian and St. Roch was painted five years later.
+In another corner of the courtyard, near the entrance, is a painting
+in a niche of the Madonna and saints by some Umbrian artist who felt
+the influence of both Giotto and Simone Martini, so that we have a
+curious, if pleasing result.
+
+
+SANTA CHIARA
+
+St. Clare was no sooner dead than the people, as they had done with
+St. Francis, sought to honour her memory, but in this case, Innocent
+IV, being in Assisi for the consecration of the Franciscan Basilica,
+the funeral service was conducted by the Pope and cardinals. Such a
+gathering of church dignitaries, Assisan nobles, priors and people had
+certainly never been seen in the humble convent of San Damiano; their
+presence, though honouring the saint, filled the hearts of the nuns
+with sorrow for they knew they had come to take the body of St. Clare
+to Assisi. With tears they consented to its being placed in safety in
+San Giorgio, but only on the condition that they might eventually be
+allowed to live near her tomb in some humble shelter. San Damiano
+without her, alive or dead, meant little to them, and they were ready
+to abandon a home of so many memories to go where they and their
+successors could guard her body to the end of time. Devotion to her
+memory and belief in her sanctity was not solely confined to them;
+when the friars rose to intone the service of the dead, Pope Innocent
+signified that there should be silence, and to the wonder of all
+ordered high mass to be sung and the funeral service to be changed
+into one of triumph, in honour of her who he believed was already with
+the Virgins in heaven. It was a kind of canonisation, but could not be
+regarded as valid without the usual preliminaries being performed, and
+the cardinals, more cautious and less enthusiastic than His Holiness,
+persuaded him to wait and in the meanwhile allow the ordinary service
+to proceed. To this he consented, and then amidst music and singing
+the Pope led the people up the hill where years before another saint
+had been borne to the same church of San Giorgio, and as on that day a
+funeral ceremony became a triumphal procession.
+
+Innocent IV, died soon after, and it was Alexander IV, who in
+September 1255, two years after her death, canonized St. Clare in a
+Bull replete with magnificent eulogy in which there is a constant play
+upon her name: "Clara claris præclara meritis, magnæ in coelo
+claritate gloriæ, ac in terra miraculorum sublimum clare gaudet ... O
+admiranda Claræ beatæ claritas." Another two years were allowed to
+elapse before they began to erect a building to her memory; besides
+the readiness shown by every town to honour their saints, the Assisans
+had especial cause to remember St. Clare, as she had twice saved them
+from the Saracen army of Frederic II. Willingly the magistrates and
+nobles, besides many strangers who had heard of the saint's renown,
+contributed money for the new building, and Fra Filippo Campello the
+minorite was chosen as the architect. Fine as his new work proved to
+be it was rather the copy of a masterpiece than the inspiration of a
+great architect, which makes it more probable that he was only
+employed in completing the church of San Francesco from the designs of
+that first mysterious architect, and not, as some have said, its sole
+builder.
+
+The canons of San Rufino offered the church and hospital of San
+Giorgio which belonged to them. A more fitting site for the church to
+be raised in honour of St. Clare could not have been chosen, for it
+was here that St. Francis had learnt to read and write as a child
+under the guidance of the parish priest; here he preached his first
+sermon, and later touched the heart of Clare by his words during the
+lenten services; and here both of them were laid in their stone urns
+until their last resting places were ready. So around the little old
+parish church with its many memories, and within sight of the Scifi
+palace, arose "as if by magic" the new temple with its tall and
+slender campanile. The hospital enlarged and improved became the
+convent, and the church was used by the nuns as a choir, the rest of
+the large building, which they could only see through iron gratings,
+being for the use of the congregation. With its alternate layers of
+pink and cream-coloured stone, wheel window and finely modelled door,
+the church fits well into its sunny piazza, and is a beautiful ending
+to the eastern side of Assisi. But in building it Fra Filippo forgot
+the crumbling nature of the soil, and failed to overcome the
+difficulty of position as had been done so admirably at San Francesco,
+so that in 1351 it became necessary to prop up the sides by strong
+flying buttresses, which, while serving as an imposing arched entrance
+to the side of the church, sadly detract from the feeling of solidity
+of the main building. A darker stone with no rosy tints was used for
+the convent, which makes it look very grim and old as it rises out of
+a soft and silvery setting of olive trees on the hillside, with
+orchards near of peaches and almonds. There is a great charm in the
+brown, weather-beaten convent, though a certain sadness when we
+remember, in looking at its tiny windows like holes in the wall
+through which only narrow vistas of the beautiful valley can be seen,
+how changed must be the lives of these cloistered nuns from those of
+the Poor Ladies of San Damiano in the time of St. Clare. They are now
+an order of the orthodox type, an order given to prayer and not to
+labour, and seeing no human face from the outside world except through
+an iron grating. So early as 1267 their connection with the franciscan
+brotherhood ceased; the brethren no longer heard their confessions or
+begged for them through the land as St. Francis had decreed; they
+lived under the patronage of the Pope, who declared their convent to
+be under the especial jurisdiction of the Holy See, and on the feast
+of St. Francis called upon the nuns to send a pound of wax candles in
+sign of tribute. As the Pope had often in olden times become master of
+Assisi so now he obtained the rule over her monastic institutions,
+gaining the temporal allegiance of the religious, as he had gained
+that of the citizens.
+
+  [Illustration: SANTA CHIARA]
+
+Upon entering the church of Santa Chiara out of the sunshine, we are
+struck with a sense of the coldness of its scant ornamentation, a want
+of colour, and a general idea that artists in first directing their
+steps to San Francesco had not had time to give much thought to the
+church of the gentle saint. Giottino is said by Vasari to have painted
+frescoes here, and they may be those ruined bits of colour in the
+right transept where it is only possible to distinguish a few heads or
+parts of figures here and there in what seems to be a procession,
+perhaps the Translation of St. Clare from San Damiano to San Giorgio.
+It is said that their present condition of ruin is due to the German
+bishop Spader who, fearing that the nuns might see too much of the
+world through the narrow grating because of the number of people who
+came to see the frescoes, had them whitewashed in the seventeenth
+century. The people came less, the nuns were safer, but Giottino's (?)
+frescoes are lost to us and we do not bless the memory of the German
+bishop of Assisi. The frescoes of the ceiling he did not touch, and
+we have in them some interesting work of an artist of the fourteenth
+century whose name is unknown, but who undoubtedly followed the
+Giottesque traditions, though not with the fidelity or the genius of
+the artist who painted the legend of St. Nicholas in San Francesco. In
+decorating the four spandrels he has been influenced by the allegories
+of Giotto, and the angels are grouped round the principal figures in
+much the same manner; they kneel, some with hands crossed upon their
+breasts, but they are silent worshippers with not a single instrument
+among them. The saints who stand in the midst of the angels in Gothic
+tabernacles are the Madonna with a charming Infant Jesus who grasps
+her mantle, and St. Clare; St. Cecilia crowned with roses, and St.
+Lucy; St. Agnes holding a lamb, and St. Rose of Viterbo; St.
+Catherine, and St. Margaret with a book in her hand. The artist has
+used such soft harmonious colours and bordered his frescoes with such
+pretty medallions of saints' heads and designs of foliage that one
+wishes he had been given the whole church to decorate and thus saved
+it from its present desolate appearance.
+
+The large crucifix behind the altar, a characteristic work of that
+time, has been ascribed to Margaritone, Giunta Pisano, or Cimabue. It
+was painted, as the inscription says, by the order of the abbess
+Benedicta, who succeeded St. Clare and was the first to rule in the
+new convent, but the artist did not sign his name. The chapel of St.
+Agnes contains a Madonna which Herr Thode with far-seeing eyes
+recognises through all its layers of modern paint as Cimabue's work.
+There is also a much retouched, but rather charming picture of St.
+Clare, painted according to its inscription in 1283. She stands in her
+heavy brown dress and mantle, a thick cord round her waist, and on
+either side are scenes from her life. The small triptych of the
+Crucifixion on a gold ground is an interesting work by the artist of
+the four frescoes of the ceiling, and a nearer view of some of the
+peculiarities of his style is obtained. It is impossible to mistake
+the long slender necks, the curiously shaped ears with the upper part
+very long, the narrow eyes, straight noses and small mouths, sometimes
+drooping slightly at the corners, which he gives his figures. He is
+another of those nameless painters who came to Assisi in the wake of
+the great Florentine.
+
+The visitor would leave Santa Chiara with a feeling of disappointment
+were it not for the chapel of San Giorgio, the original place so often
+mentioned in connection with St. Francis and now open to the public.
+The crucifix of the tenth century, so famous for having bowed its head
+to St. Francis in the church of San Damiano bidding him to repair the
+ruined churches of Assisi, is to be removed from the parlour, where it
+is temporarily kept, and placed behind the altar. The chapel, with a
+groined roof, is square, small and of perfect form, and ornamented
+with several frescoes. On the left wall is a delightful St. George
+fighting the dragon in the presence of a tall princess, her face
+showing very white against her red hair. There is a naïve scene of the
+Magi, whose sleeves are as long and whose hands are as spidery as
+those of the princess; and above is an Annunciation. Behind the
+curtain in the fresco a small child is standing who is evidently the
+donor, but some people believe he represents the Infant Jesus, which
+certainly would account for the surprised attitude of the Virgin. This
+wall was painted in the sixteenth century by some artist of the Gubbio
+school, but his name we have been unable to discover. Quite a
+different character marks the frescoes upon the next wall, which would
+seem to be the work of an Umbrian scholar of Simone Martini, or at
+least by one more influenced by the Sienese than the Florentine
+masters. There is a softness and an ivory tone in the paintings of the
+saints, a languid look in their eyes, a sweetness about the mouth
+peculiar to the Umbrian followers of Simone, who like him succeed less
+well with male than with female saints. Here the Madonna, seated on a
+Gothic throne against a crimson dais, with a broad forehead and blue
+eyes, her soft veil falling in graceful folds about her slender neck,
+is unusually charming. The St. George with his shield is perhaps less
+disappointing than St. Francis, but then Simone fails to quite express
+the nature of the Seraphic Preacher. We turn to St. Clare of the oval
+face and clear brown eyes, and feel that the painter had a subject
+which appealed to him, even to the brown habit and black veil which
+makes the face seem more delicate and fair. Above are the Crucifixion,
+Entombment and Resurrection, suggesting in the strained attitudes of
+the figures a follower of Pietro Lorenzetti. Some remains of frescoes
+upon the next wall resemble those in the nave of the Lower Church, and
+probably also belong to the second half of the thirteenth century.
+Indeed the architecture of the chapel bears a striking resemblance to
+San Francesco, so that although this is the original building of San
+Giorgio which existed long before the Franciscan Basilica, it was in
+all probability remodelled by Fra Campello, who may have given it the
+pretty groined roof.
+
+But above all the works of art and all the views of church or convent,
+the pious pilgrim treasures the privilege of being able to gaze upon
+the body of the saint in the crypt below the high altar reached by a
+broad flight of marble stairs. St. Clare had been buried so far out of
+sight and reach that her tomb was only found in the year 1850, after
+much search had been made. Five bishops, with Cardinal Pecci, now
+Pope Leo XIII, and the magistrates of the town, were present at the
+opening of the sepulchre; the iron bars which bound it were filed
+asunder, and the body of the saint was found lying clad in her brown
+habit as if buried but a little while since; the wild thyme which her
+companions had sprinkled round her six hundred years ago, withered as
+it was, still sent up a sweet fragrance, while a few green and tender
+leaves are said to have been clinging to her veil. So great was the
+joy at discovering this precious relic that a procession was organised
+"with pomp impossible to describe."
+
+  [Illustration: SANTA CHIARA FROM NEAR THE PORTA MOJANO]
+
+On the Sunday at dawn every bell commenced to ring calling the people
+to high mass, and never, says a proud chronicler, were so many bishops
+and such a crowd seen as upon that day. At the elevation of the Host
+the bells pealed forth again announcing the solemn moment to the
+neighbouring villages; soon after the procession was formed of lay
+confraternities, priests and friars, and little children dressed as
+angels strewed the way with flowers. The peasants, with tears raining
+down their cheeks, pressed near the coffin, and had to be kept back by
+some of the Austrian soldiers then quartered in Assisi. First they
+went to the Cathedral, then to San Francesco, "the body of St. Clare
+thus going to salute the body of her great master. Oh admirable
+disposition of God." It was evening before they returned to the church
+of Santa Chiara, where the nuns anxiously awaited them at the entrance
+of their cloister to place the body of their foundress in the chapel
+of San Giorgio until a sanctuary should be built beneath the high
+altar. It was soon finished, ornamented with Egyptian alabaster and
+Italian marbles, and the body of St. Clare was laid there to be
+venerated by the faithful.
+
+As pilgrims stand before a grating in the dimly lighted crypt the
+gentle rustle of a nun's dress is heard; slowly invisible hands draw
+the curtain aside, and St. Clare is seen lying in a glass case upon a
+satin bed, her face clearly outlined against her black and white
+veils, whilst her brown habit is drawn in straight folds about her
+body. She clasps the book of her Rule in one hand, and in the other
+holds a lily with small diamonds shining on the stamens. The silence
+is unbroken save for the gentle clicking of the rosary beads slipping
+through the fingers of the invisible nun who keeps watch, and as she
+lets the curtain down again and blows out the lights there is a
+feeling that we have intruded upon the calm sleep of the "Seraphic
+Mother."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[101] As the hated enemies of the Baglioni the Fiumi are often
+mentioned in the chronicles of Matarazzo, and they played an important
+part in the history of their native city. They were Counts of
+Sterpeto, and the village of that name on the hill to the west of
+Assisi above the banks of the Chiaggio still belongs to the family.
+
+[102] One of the first of the franciscans was Rufino, a nephew of
+Count Favorino's, whose holiness was such that in speaking of him to
+the other brethren St. Francis would call him St. Rufino.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+_Other Buildings in the Town_
+
+   The Cathedral of San Rufino. Roman Assisi. The Palazzo Pubblico.
+   The Chiesa Nuova. S. Paolo. Sta. Maria Maggiore. S. Quirico. S.
+   Appolinare. S. Pietro. The Confraternities (Chiesa dei
+   Pellegrini, etc.). The Castle.
+
+
+Assisi is the only town we know of in Italy where the interest does
+not centre round its cathedral and a certain sadness is felt, which
+perhaps is not difficult to explain; St. Francis holds all in his
+spell now just as he held the people long ago, so that the saints who
+first preached Christianity to the Assisans, were martyred and brought
+honour to the city, are almost forgotten and their churches deserted.
+The citizens, though proud of their Duomo, with its beautiful brown
+façade, hardly appear to love it, and we have often thought that they
+too feel the sense of gloom and isolation in the small piazza, which
+makes it a place ill-fitted to linger in for long. Men come and go so
+silently, women fill their pitchers at the fountain but only the
+splashing of water is heard, and they quickly disappear down a street;
+even the houses have no life, for while the windows are open no one
+looks out, and the total absence of flowers gives them a further look
+of desolation. This part of the town was already old in mediæval
+times, and the far away mystery of an age which has few records still
+lives around the cathedral and its bell tower. San Rufino stands in
+the very centre of Roman Assisi and its history begins very soon
+after the Roman era, one might say was contemporary with it, as the
+saint whose name it bears, was martyred in the reign of Diocletian.
+All the details of his death, together with the charming legend about
+the building of the cathedral, come down to us in a hymn by St. Peter
+Damian, who, although writing in 1052 of things which it is true
+happened long before, had very likely learnt the traditions about it
+from the Assisans while he lived in his mountain hermitage near
+Gubbio. The story goes back to the time when the Roman consul of
+Assisi received orders to stamp out the fast-spreading roots of
+Christianity, and began his work by putting to death St. Rufino, the
+pastor of the tiny flock. The soldiers hurried the Bishop down to the
+river Chiaggio and, after torturing him in horrible fashion, flung him
+into the water with a heavy stone round his neck. Some say that the
+Emperor Diocletian came in person to see his orders carried out. That
+night the Assisan Christians stole down to the valley to rescue the
+body of their Bishop and place it in safety within the castle of
+Costano, which still stands in the fields close to the river but
+almost hidden by the peasant houses built around it. Here, in a marble
+sarcophagus he rested, cared for and protected by each succeeding
+generation of Christians who had learned from tradition to love his
+memory, and secretly they visited the castle in the plain to pray by
+the tomb of the martyred saint. Their vigilance continued until the
+fifth century, when the Christians had already begun to burn the Pagan
+temples and build churches of their own. Christianity, indeed, spread
+so rapidly throughout Umbria that other towns cultivated a love for
+relics, and fearing that the body of St. Rufino might be stolen from
+the castle in the open country, the Assisans took the first
+opportunity of bringing it within the town. In the year 412 Bishop
+Basileo, with his clergy and congregation met at Costano, to seek
+through prayer some inspiration so that they might know where to take
+the body of their saint. As they knelt by his tomb an old man of
+venerable aspect suddenly appeared among them, and spoke these words
+in the Lord's name: "Take," he said, "two heifers which have not felt
+the yoke, and harness them to a car whereon you shall lay the body of
+St. Rufino. Follow the road taken by the heifers and where they stop,
+there, in his honour shall ye build a church." These words were
+faithfully obeyed: the heifers, knowing what they were to do, turned
+towards Assisi, and brought the relics, through what is now the Porta
+S. Pietro, to that portion of the old town known as the "Good Mother"
+because the goddess Ceres is said to be buried there. The heifers then
+turned slowly round, faced the Bishop and his people, and refused to
+move. For some obscure reason the place did not please the Assisans,
+and they began to build a church further up the hill; but every
+morning they found the walls, which had been erected during the
+preceding day, pulled down, until discouraged, they submitted to the
+augury, and returned to the spot chosen by the heifers. Before long,
+over the tomb of the Roman goddess, arose the first Christian church
+of Assisi, dedicated to San Rufino.
+
+  [Illustration: CAMPANILE OF SAN RUFINO]
+
+A few years ago the late Canon Elisei who has written many interesting
+pamphlets on the cathedral, obtained permission from the government to
+clear away the rubble beneath the present church; masses of Roman
+inscriptions and pieces of sculpture were brought to light, together
+with part of the primitive church of Bishop Basileo, and the whole of
+what is known as the Chiesa Ugonia, from the Bishop of that name who
+built it in 1028. With lighted torches the visitor can descend to the
+primitive basilica and realise what a peaceful spot had been chosen
+for this early place of worship, while picturing the Christians as
+they knelt round the body of their Bishop, the light falling dimly
+upon them through the narrow Lombard windows. The six columns, with
+their varied capitals rising straight from the ground without the
+support of bases, give a somewhat funereal aspect, recalling a crypt
+rather than a church. The few vestiges of frescoes in the apse--St.
+Mark and his lion, and St. Costanso, Bishop of Perugia--are said to
+be, with the paintings in S. Celso at Verona, the oldest in Italy
+after those in the catacombs at Rome. Ruins of other frescoes, perhaps
+of the same date, can be traced above the door of the first basilica,
+together with some stone-work in low relief of vine leaves and grapes,
+but it is difficult to see them without going behind a column built in
+total disregard of this lower building. The Roman sarcophagus is still
+in the apse where the altar once stood, but open and neglected, for
+the body of St. Rufino now lies beneath the altar of the present
+cathedral. It is ornamented in rough high relief with the story of
+Endymion; Diana steps from her chariot towards the sleeping shepherd,
+Pomona has her arms full of fruit and flowers, and there are nymphs
+and little gods of love and sleep. "It appeared to us," remarks one
+prudish chronicler of the church, "the first time we beheld it, that
+it was indecent to have present before the eyes of the faithful so
+unseemly a fable; our scruples we however laid aside in remembering
+that Holy Church is endowed with the power of purging from temples,
+altars and urns, all pagan abominations, and from superstition to turn
+them to the true service of God." No such scruples existed during the
+early times, and there is an amusing story of how the people wishing
+to place the marble sarcophagus, which had been left at Costano five
+centuries before, in the Chiesa Ugonia, were prevented by the Bishop
+who admired it, and had given orders that it should be brought to his
+palace at Sta. Maria Maggiore. A great tumult arose in the town, but
+although the people came to blows and the fight was serious on both
+sides, no blood was shed. A further miracle took place when the
+Bishop, determined to have his way, sent sixty men down to Costano who
+were unable to move the sarcophagus which remained as though rooted in
+the earth; and the event was the more remarkable as seven men
+afterwards brought it at a run up the hill to the church of San
+Rufino, where it remains to this day.
+
+Already two basilicas had been built in honour of the saint, but the
+Assisans dissatisfied with their size and magnificence, in the year
+1134 called in the most famous architect of the day, Maestro Giovanni
+of Gubbio, who before his death in 1210 had all but completed the
+present cathedral and campanile. It is a great surprise when, emerging
+from the narrow street leading from the Piazza Minerva thinking to
+have seen all that is loveliest in Assisi, we suddenly catch sight of
+the cathedral and its bell-tower. The rough brown stone which Maestro
+Giovanni has so beautifully worked into delicately rounded columns,
+cornices, rose-windows and doors with fantastic beasts, sometimes
+looks as dark as a capucin's habit, but there are moments in the late
+afternoon when all the warmth of the sun's rays sinks into it,
+radiating hues of golden orange which as suddenly deepen to dark brown
+again as the light dies away behind the Perugian hills.
+
+All three doors are fine with their quaint ornaments of birds and
+beasts and flowers, but upon the central one Giovanni expended all his
+art. It is framed in by a double pattern of water-lilies and leaves,
+of human faces, beasts, penguins and other birds with a colour in
+their wings like tarnished gold. The red marble lions which guard the
+entrance, with long arched necks and symmetrical curls, a human figure
+between their paws, may belong to an even earlier period, and perhaps
+were taken by Giovanni da Gubbio from the Chiesa Ugonia to decorate
+his façade, together with the etruscan-looking figures of God the
+Father, the Virgin and St. Rufino in the lunette above. Just below the
+windows a long row of animals, such pre-historic beasts as may have
+walked upon Subasio when no man was there to interrupt their passage,
+seem to move in endless procession, and look down with faces one has
+seen in dreams.
+
+  [Illustration: DOOR OF SAN RUFINO]
+
+The interior of the cathedral is a disappointment; at first we accuse
+the great Maestro Giovanni for this painful collection of truncated
+lines and inharmonious shapes, until we find how utterly his work was
+ruined in the sixteenth century by Galeazzo Alessi of Perugia. To
+understand what the church was five centuries before Alessi came, it
+is necessary to climb the campanile (only those who are attracted by
+ricketty ladders and dizzy heights are advised to make the trial), and
+when nearly half way up step out on to Alessi's roof, whence we can
+view the havoc he has made. But he could not spoil Giovanni's
+rose-windows, and through one of them we see the castle on its green
+hill and the town below, cut into sections as though we were looking
+at the Umbrian world through a kaleidoscope.
+
+The outside of San Rufino is so lovely that we should be inclined to
+advise none to enter, and thus spoil the impression it makes, were it
+not for the triptych by Niccolò da Foligno, "the first painter in whom
+the emotional, now passionate and violent, now mystic and estatic,
+temperament of St. Francis' countrymen was revealed."[103] Here we
+find a dreamy Madonna with flaxen hair, surrounded by tiny angels even
+fairer than herself in crimson and golden garments folded about their
+hips. The lunettes above are studded with patches of jewel-colour,
+angels spreading their pointed wings upwards as they seem to be wafted
+to and fro by a breeze. Four tall and serious saints stand round the
+Virgin like columns; to the right St. Peter Damian busily writing in a
+book, and St. Marcello, an Assisan martyr of the fourth century who
+might pass for a typical Italian priest of the present day. On the
+left is St. Rufino in the act of giving his pastoral blessing, and
+St. Esuberanzio, another of Assisi's early martyrs, holding a missal.
+They stand in a meadow thickly overgrown with flowers drawn with all
+Niccolò's firm outline and love of detail. Fine as the picture is, it
+cannot compare with the charming predella where the artist has worked
+with the delicacy of a miniature painter. It represents the martyrdom
+of St. Rufino; in the first small compartment the Roman soldiers on
+horseback, their lances held high in the air, followed by a group of
+prying boys, watch the Bishop's tortures as the flames shoot up around
+him; and in the distance are two small hill-towns with the towers of
+Costano in the plain. Then follows the scene where two young Assisan
+Christians have come down to the Chiaggio to rescue the body of their
+saint from the river. He lies stiffly in their arms, attired in his
+episcopal vestments, and the water has sucked the long folds of his
+cope below its surface. The last represents the procession of citizens
+led by Bishop Basileo bringing St. Rufino's body from Costano, and is
+one of the most exquisite bits of Umbrian painting. Niccolò has placed
+the scene in early morning, the air is keen among the mountains, the
+sun has just reached Assisi, seen against the white slopes of Subasio,
+and turns its houses to a rosy hue, while the tiny wood in the plain
+is still in deepest shadow. The white-robed acolytes mount the hill in
+the sunlight followed by the people and the heifers which ought,
+Niccolò has forgotten, according to the legend, to have led the way.
+The picture is signed Opus Nicholai De Fuligneo MCCCCLX.
+
+The only other fine things in the cathedral are the stalls of intarsia
+work of carved wood, by Giovanni di Pier Giacomo da San Severino
+(1520), a pupil of the man who executed the far finer stalls in San
+Francesco. In the chapel of the Madonna del Pianto is a curious
+wooden statue of the Pietà, how old and whether of the Italian or
+French school it is difficult to say. A tablet records that in 1494
+because of the great dissensions in the town this Madonna was seen to
+weep, for which she has been much honoured, as is shown by the
+innumerable ex-votos hung by the faithful round her altar.
+
+  [Illustration: THE DOME AND APSE OF SAN RUFINO FROM THE CANON'S
+  GARDEN]
+
+The marble statue of St. Francis is by the French artist, M. Dupré (a
+replica in bronze stands in the Piazza), while that of St. Clare is by
+his daughter, who both generously gave their work to Assisi in 1882.
+The statue of St. Rufino is by another Frenchman, M. Lemoyne.
+
+The proudest possession of San Rufino is the font in which St.
+Francis, St. Clare, St. Agnes and Frederick II, were baptised, and the
+stone is shown upon which the angel knelt, who in the disguise of a
+pilgrim assisted at the baptism of Assisi's saint. Often did Francis
+come to San Rufino to preach when the small church of S. Giorgio could
+no longer hold the crowds who flocked to hear him, and the hut where
+the saint spent his nights in prayer and meditation before he preached
+in the cathedral is now a chapel. This was the place of the miracle
+when his companions at Rivo-Torto saw him descend towards them in a
+chariot of fire (see p. 238). In the time of the saint it was the
+cottage of a market-gardener and still stands amidst a vineyard, one
+of the prettiest and sunniest spots in the town, where vines, onions,
+wild flowers and cherry trees grow in happy confusion, and birds and
+peasants sing all day long.
+
+The charm of the Cathedral is best realised after witnessing one of
+its many ceremonies, when the canons in crimson and purple,
+processions of scarlet clothed boys swinging censers, and the Bishop
+seated beneath a canopy of yellow damask his cope drawn stiffly to the
+ground by a fussing acolyte, recall some of the magnificence of the
+middle ages. The young priests bow low before the Bishop on their way
+to the altar, return to their seats and bow again; incense fills the
+church; the organ peals half drown the tenor's song, and through it
+all, from the stalls, drone the voices of the canons reciting their
+office. It is a gorgeous service but without a congregation, for even
+the beggars have not stolen in; and Niccolò's Madonna looks out upon
+the scene with big soft eyes which seem to follow us into the darkest
+corners of the aisles.
+
+
+ROMAN ASSISI.
+
+Assisi is so much a place of one idea--of one interest--around which
+everything has grown, that it is difficult to remember that a fairly
+important town existed in Roman times, and that the Roman buildings,
+still to be seen are, in the opinion of Mr Freeman, worth a visit even
+if the church of San Francesco had never arisen. Some pleasant hours
+may be passed finding the sites of pagan monuments, the remains of
+ancient walls, and tracing the outline of the original town. In every
+case we see how Roman Assisi has, in a very marked way, become part of
+Mediæval Assisi, palaces having been erected upon the foundations of
+Roman houses and Christian churches upon the sites of ancient temples.
+The Temple of Hercules stood at the bend of Via S. Quirico (now Via
+Garibaldi) where it turns up to the ancient palace of the Scifi; while
+the Porta Mojano, near which old walls and part of an aqueduct can be
+seen, took its name from a temple of Janus which stood between it and
+the Vescovado. Standing a little off the Piazza Nuova, in a part of
+the town known as the "Gorga," are the remains of the amphitheatre. It
+would be difficult to find much of the original edifice, but houses
+having been built exactly on the ancient site its shape has been
+preserved, and this strange medley of old and new was thought worthy
+of a doric entrance gate by Galeazzo Alessi. Much the same thing has
+happened with many of the castles in the country near Assisi, where
+the peasant houses are grouped round them in such a way that only by
+penetrating into the midst of a tangled mass of dwellings can the
+vestige of a tower be here and there discerned to remind us of its
+former state. Assisi, though of no military importance at that time,
+aspired to become a little Roman town even more perfect than her
+neighbours on the hills. The broad and strongly built drain which
+extends from near the Porta Perlici beneath the Piazza Nuova to the
+garden behind San Rufino, is said to have been used to carry off the
+water from the amphitheatre after the mimic sea-fights which in Roman
+times were so popular. A use was found for all things, and in time of
+war a Roman drain proved a most efficient means of escape, especially
+when the Baglioni were raiding the town and putting to death all they
+met upon their road.
+
+Some small remains of a Roman theatre are to be seen near the
+cathedral but so buried amidst a wild garden that it is difficult to
+form any just idea of its extent. The most splendid piece of masonry,
+a Roman cistern, lies beneath the campanile of the cathedral and can
+be easily looked into by the light of a torch, the sacristan even
+suggests a descent into its dark depths by means of a rickety ladder.
+An inscription recording the proud fact that Assisi possessed an
+amphitheatre has been removed to the cathedral where it is placed
+above the side entrance to the left. Other large portions of Roman
+walls are to be found at the back of a shop in the Via Portica and
+also in the Via San Paolo; both are marked upon the map. In those days
+the town seems to have been identical with what we now call old
+Assisi, namely the quarter round San Rufino extending to the portion
+round San Francescuccio where are noticed the arched Lombard windows.
+
+But by far the most interesting record of this early age is the Temple
+of Minerva, which in spite of the damage done when it was turned into
+a church, and the way in which the mediæval buildings are crowded
+round it, yet remains one of the most beautiful of ancient monuments.
+The raising of the Piazza makes it difficult to realise, without going
+below ground, how imposing the temple must have been when its steps
+led straight down to the Forum. This can be reached by descending from
+the Piazza into the "scavi," or excavations, where stands the great
+altar with drains for the blood of the victims; the long inscription
+giving the name of the donor of the Temple runs:
+
+GAL. TETTIENVS PARDALAS ET TETTIENA GALENE TETTRASTILVM SVA PECVNIA
+FECERVNT, ITEM SIMVLACRA CASTORIS ET POLLVCIS. MVNICIPIBVS
+ASISINATIBVS DONO DEDER. ET DEDICATIONE EPVLVM DECVRIONIBVS SING. XV.
+SEVIR. XIII. PLEBI X. DEDERVNT. S.C.L.D.
+
+It is well known that Goethe went to Assisi solely to see the Temple,
+and surprised the citizens by going straight down the hill again
+without stopping to visit San Francesco. He wished to keep unimpaired
+the impression this perfect piece of classical architecture had made
+upon his mind, and we cannot refrain from translating his enthusiastic
+description of it for these pages.
+
+"From Palladio and Volkmann I had gathered that a beautiful temple of
+Minerva, of the time of Augustus, was still standing and perfectly
+preserved. Asking a good-looking youth where Maria della Minerva was,
+he led me up through the city which stands on a hill. At length we
+reached the oldest part of the town, and I beheld the noble building
+standing before me, the first complete monument of ancient days that I
+had seen. A modest temple as befitted so small a town, yet so perfect,
+so finely conceived, that its beauty would strike one anywhere. But
+above all its position! Since reading in Vitruvius and Palladio how
+cities ought to be built and temples and other public edifices
+situated, I have a great respect for these things.... The temple
+stands half way up the mountain, just where two hills meet together,
+on a piazza which to this day is called the Piazza.... In old times
+there were probably no houses opposite to prevent the view. Abolish
+them in imagination, and one would look towards the south over a most
+fertile land, whilst the sanctuary of Minerva would be visible from
+everywhere. Probably the plan of the streets dates from long ago as
+they follow the conformation and sinuosities of the mountain. The
+temple is not in the centre of the Piazza, but is so placed that a
+striking, though fore-shortened, view of it is obtained by the
+traveller coming from Rome. Not only should the building itself be
+drawn but also its fine position. I could not gaze my full of the
+façade; how harmonious and genial is the conception of the artist....
+Unwillingly I tore myself away, and determined to draw the attention
+of all architects to it so that correct drawings may be made; for once
+again have I been convinced that tradition is untrustworthy. Palladio,
+on whom I relied, gives us, it is true, a picture of this temple, but
+he cannot have seen it, as he actually places pedestals on the level
+whereby the columns are thrown up too high, and we have an ugly
+Palmyrian monstrosity instead of what is a tranquil, charming object,
+satisfying to both the eye and the understanding. It is impossible to
+describe the deep impression I received from the contemplation of this
+edifice, and it will produce everlasting fruit."[104]
+
+
+S. PAOLO[105]
+
+A little off the Piazza della Minerva is the old Benedictine church
+dedicated to St. Paolo, erected in 1074, when it probably stood alone
+with its monastery and not, as now, wedged in with other houses.
+Built in the very heart of Roman Assisi, its foundations rest upon
+solid walls of travertine, where a secret passage reaches to the
+castle. In this part of the town there are several underground
+passages spreading out in various directions, reminding us of the
+insecurity of life in the early times when Pagan consuls persecuted
+the weaker Christian sect. Just within the doorway of the church, now
+alas thickly coated with whitewash, is an ionic column belonging to
+some building of importance which must have stood within the Forum.
+Few people visit S. Paolo as it is only mentioned in local
+guide-books, and the passing stranger is generally told that there is
+nothing to see which is borne out by the modesty of its exterior; but
+no lover of the early Umbrian school who has the time to spare should
+fail to step in, if only for a moment, as on a wall to the left of the
+entrance is a large fresco by Matteo da Gualdo. He has signed the date
+in the corner--1475--though not his name, but it would be difficult to
+mistake so characteristic a work of this delightful painter. The
+Virgin, tall and stately, is accompanied by St. Lucy, who holds her
+eyes upon a dish and is clothed in a richly coloured orange gown
+falling in heavy folds about her; on the other side is St. Ansano, the
+patron of the Sienese, looking in his elegant green jacket, trimmed
+with fur, more like a courtier than a holy martyr. He holds his lungs
+in one hand, because he is a patron of people suffering from
+consumption, but why we know not, as there was nothing in the way he
+met his death in the river Arbia by the order of Diocletian to explain
+the presence of this strange symbol. He stands in Matteo's fresco very
+daintily by the Madonna's side, pointing her out to the small donor
+who is seen kneeling in a doorway. The colour is deep, perhaps a
+little crude, and if the figures may seem somewhat stiff and their
+draperies angular, all such defects are amply redeemed by the small
+angels on the arch above, who composedly gaze down upon the Madonna as
+they sing and play to her.
+
+
+PALAZZO PUBBLICO OR PALAZZO COMMUNALE
+
+In the beginning of the thirteenth century the civil affairs of Assisi
+had assumed such large proportions that it was found impossible to
+transact business in unsheltered quarters of the piazza as had
+hitherto been done, and the citizens determined to build a Palazzo
+Pubblico. Other towns were rising to municipal importance, notably
+Perugia whose palace for her priors proved a beautiful example of a
+gothic building, while Assisi was directing all efforts to adorn her
+churches. A house was bought belonging to the same Benedictine abbot
+of Mount Subasio, who had given the humble dwellings to St. Francis,
+and on its site they erected the present municipal palace, which was
+enlarged in 1275 and again in the fifteenth century, but it always
+remained a humble building with little pretensions to fine
+architecture. Here the priors and the consuls ruled the citizens in
+the absence of a despot, while in the palace of the Capitano del
+Popolo (now the residence of the Carabinieri), whose tower dates from
+1276, the council of the citizens met to check the tyranny of the
+governing faction. These municipal magnates lived upon opposite sides
+of the Piazza, and acted as a drag upon each other in civil matters.
+The many small towns, villages and castles which were beneath the yoke
+of Assisi in mediæval times have been represented by a modern artist
+in the entrance hall of the Palazzo Pubblico, and are a happy record
+of her days of conquest and prosperity, which are duly remembered by
+the citizens. There is also a picture by Sermei of St. Francis
+blessing Assisi from the plain which, painted in the sixteenth
+century, is interesting as a likeness of the town at that time. There
+is also a picture of Elias hung upon the wall, intended as a portrait
+and not as an object for popular devotion. An effort has been made to
+adapt one of the rooms as a gallery of Umbrian art, and a few frescoes
+taken from walls and convents and transferred to canvas are preserved
+here, giving some idea, notwithstanding their ruined condition, of the
+liberal way in which Umbrian artists distributed their work in every
+corner of the town. The gateway of S. Giacomo exposed to constant sun,
+wind and rain, was yet thought a fitting place for Fiorenzo di Lorenzo
+to paint a fresco of a beautiful Madonna. It now looks sadly out of
+place in this room of the Municipio with a little paper ticket on the
+corner of the canvas marking it as No. 17. The half figures of angels,
+No. 23 and No. 24, by Matteo da Gualdo, were taken from the
+Confraternity of S. Crispino together with No. 21. From the Chiesa dei
+Pellegrini came No. 5, the Madonna and Saints by Ottaviano Nelli of
+Gubbio; while No. 6, a Madonna, with angels holding a red damask
+curtain behind her, was found at the fountain of Mojano and is
+attributed to Tiberio d'Assisi. That mysterious painter L'Ingegno
+d'Assisi may be the author of No. 12. Vasari recounts how he learnt
+his art in the workshop of Perugino in company with Raphael, and even
+helped his master in the Cambio frescoes. His real name was Andrea
+Aloisi, the nickname of Ingegno arising from the fact that he was
+looked up to by his fellow citizens as a very remarkable man, for not
+only could he paint beautiful Madonnas but he was a distinguished
+Procurator, Arbitrator, Syndic and Camerlingo Apostolico. But to try
+and trace his work is like following a will-o'-the-wisp, for no sooner
+do we hear of a fresco by him than it eventually turns out to be by
+Fiorenzo di Lorenzo or by Adone Doni, and this fresco in the Municipio
+is the only one in Assisi which may be by him. If it is, Tiberio
+d'Assisi would seem to have been his master and not Perugino.
+
+In the same room is a small but interesting painting in fresco (No.
+87), the figure of a winged Mercury, which was excavated a few years
+ago in the Casa Rocchi, via Cristofani. In another room is the head of
+a saint which some believe to be also of Roman times, but a good
+authority attributes it to a late follower of Raphael. The saint's
+head is seen against a shadowy blue landscape, and like all Umbrian
+things has an indescribable charm, a feeling that the artist loved the
+valleys in spring-time, and tried to convey some of the soft colour of
+the young corn and budding trees into the picture he was painting.
+
+
+THE CHIESA NUOVA
+
+A little below the Piazza della Minerva is the Chiesa Nuova, built at
+the expense of Philip III, of Spain in 1615 by the Assisan artist
+Giorgetti and finished in seven years. Few people come to Assisi
+without visiting it, for although containing nothing of artistic
+value, it stands upon the site of the Casa Bernardone, and recalls
+many incidents of St. Francis' life. The small door is shown through
+which Madonna Pica passed when the angel disguised as a pilgrim told
+her that her son was to be born in a stable, and we see part of the
+cell where St. Francis endured such cruel imprisonment from his
+father, until his mother in the absence of Messer Pietro let him out
+to return to his haunts at San Damiano and the Carceri.[106] Other
+places preserve more of the charm of the saint than the Chiesa Nuova.
+
+Two buildings in the town are intimately connected with St. Francis,
+his father's shop in the Via Portica the entrance of which the
+sculptor of St. Bernardino's door at the franciscan convent has
+adorned with a beautiful pattern of flowers, shields and cupids; and
+the house of Bernard of Quintavalle which is reached from this street
+by the Via S. Gregorio. It is now the Palazzo Sbaraglini and has no
+doubt been much enlarged since the thirteenth century, but the little
+old door above a flight of steps bears the unmistakable stamp of age;
+it leads into a long vaulted room, now a chapel, which there seems
+every reason to believe was the one where Bernard, the rich noble,
+invited St. Francis to stay with him at a time when he doubted his
+sanctity. The story is too long to quote and extracts would only spoil
+it, but the pilgrim to Assisi should read it as related in that
+franciscan testament, the _Fioretti_ (chap. iii.). Popular devotion
+has happily not tampered with this corner of the town as it has with
+the house of the Bernardone.
+
+  [Illustration: CAMPANILE OF STA. MARIA MAGGIORE]
+
+
+STA. MARIA MAGGIORE
+
+This romanesque church stands above a Roman building whose columns and
+mosaic floor can easily be seen from the garden behind the apse, and
+for many centuries it was the cathedral of Assisi as is testified by
+its close proximity to the Bishop's palace. But there is now little to
+remind us of any pretensions to splendour which it may once have
+possessed, only vestiges of the frescoes destroyed by the great
+earthquake of 1832 can be seen on its walls, and an Annunciation in a
+cupboard of the sacristy--in such strange places do we find an ancient
+fresco in Assisi. The church was already an old building in the
+twelfth century, for we hear of its being restored and enlarged after
+a fire by Giovanni da Gubbio, and finished later by the help of St.
+Francis who is said to have rebuilt the apse. One gladly hurries out
+of it into the little piazza which, though the humblest looking in
+Assisi, is very famous for the scenes it has witnessed. Here St.
+Francis renounced the world in the presence of his angry father, and
+received protection from Bishop Guido; (see p. 235). Many years later
+the dying saint was brought to rest at the Bishop's palace near the
+church, and edified those who guarded the gates by singing so gaily in
+the midst of terrible suffering. Then again when a quarrel arose
+between Guido and the Podestà of Assisi, two friars came up with a
+message of peace from St. Francis, then on his deathbed at the
+Portiuncula, who had heard with grief of the dissension. The story,
+and it is a true one we may be sure, has been faithfully recorded by
+Brother Leo, who tells us how "when all were assembled together in the
+piazza by the Bishop's palace the two brethren rose up and said: "The
+blessed Francis in his illness has composed a canticle to the Lord
+concerning His creatures, to the praise of the Lord Himself and for
+the edification of the people." It was the verse beginning "Praised be
+my Lord for all those who pardon one another for His love's sake,"
+which he had added to his Hymn to the Sun (see p. 79). All listened
+intently to the message which so touched the heart of the Podestà that
+he flung himself at the Bishop's feet and promised to make amends for
+his offence for the love of Christ and the Blessed Francis. The Bishop
+lifting him from the ground spoke words of forgiveness and peace, and
+then "with great kindness and love they embraced and kissed one
+another.""
+
+  [Illustration: EAST FRONT OF SAN FRANCESCO]
+
+
+CONVENTS OF S. QUIRICO AND S. APPOLINARE
+
+Every church and convent wall in Assisi was once adorned by frescoes,
+and even now, when time and ill-usage have done their best to ruin
+them, it is still possible to come upon delightful specimens of
+Umbrian art. But they are so stowed away in out of the way corners
+that one hardly likes to pass a door, however poor and uninviting,
+without glancing in to see what treasure may be hidden away behind it.
+
+Curiosity was amply rewarded one day while visiting the convent of S.
+Quirico which we pass on the way from Sta. Maria Maggiore to S.
+Pietro, attracted there by the small fresco of the Virgin and St. Anne
+by Matteo da Gualdo over the door. The whitewashed parlour contained
+nothing of interest, not even a nun peered through the iron grating,
+but a murmur from the attendant about frescoes drew us to a window
+where, above the brown-tiled roof under a rough pent ledge, exposed to
+rain and wind, was a fresco of Christ rising from the tomb, and four
+small angels. It is not perhaps one of Matteo da Gualdo's most
+pleasing compositions and might be passed unnoticed in a gallery, but
+the thought of the wealth of Umbrian art, when masters left their
+paintings over gateways upon city walls, and above a roof where even
+the nuns can scarcely see it as they walk in the cloister below, give
+it a peculiarly Assisan charm which we cannot easily forget. A few
+steps further on, down the Borgo San Pietro, is the large convent of
+S. Appolinare, remarkable for its pretty campanile of brick, and a
+wheel window above the door. It once possessed many frescoes of the
+fourteenth and fifteenth century, but now it is not worth while to
+seek admittance for they are much destroyed; some have been ruthlessly
+cut in two by lowering the ceiling of the rooms, and only here and
+there, where the whitewash has peeled off, faces of Madonnas and
+saints look out like ghosts imprisoned in a convent wall.
+
+
+S. PIETRO
+
+The church of S. Pietro stands upon a grass piazza surrounded by
+mulberry trees, with a broad outlook upon the valley. The central
+door, supported by two lions, has a twisted design of water-plants and
+birds which formerly were coloured, but now only show here and there
+traces of green stalks on a dark red background. A finely carved
+inscription above it records that in the year 1218 the cistercian
+Abbot Rustico built the façade, but its proud historians believe the
+church itself to have existed in the second century, thus claiming for
+it the honour of being the first church erected in Assisi. The present
+building cannot be older than 1253 when it was rebuilt after a great
+fire, and consecrated by Innocent IV. The interior is finely
+proportioned, and the remains of ancient frescoes discovered upon the
+walls show the zeal of the Assisans in making all their churches, as
+well as San Francesco, as beautiful as they could.
+
+  [Illustration: CHURCH OF S. PIETRO]
+
+In the small chapel to the left of the high altar are four stencilled
+medallions of a hunter with his dogs chasing a stag, besides
+symmetrical patterns like those of the nave of the Lower Church of San
+Francesco. Over the altar is a signed picture by Matteo da Gualdo (he
+was at Assisi in 1458, but the date here is partly effaced), of a
+Madonna with a choir of angels, and upon either side St. Peter and the
+Assisan martyr St. Vittorino. By standing on the altar steps a fresco
+of the Annunciation of the fifteenth century may be seen on the wall
+of the sacristy, discovered beneath the usual layer of whitewash some
+fifty years ago. The angel's profile, the hair turned back in waves
+from the face over the shoulders, is clearly outlined, and shows pale
+against the golden light of his wings. But the real treasures of this
+church, according to a pious author, are the bones of St. Vittorino,
+an Assisan Christian who was the second Bishop of Assisi, and died a
+martyr's death in the third century. In 1642 these relics were
+deposited in a more suitable marble urn than the one that had
+contained them before, during a grand ceremony presided over by a
+Baglioni, Bishop of Perugia. Other bones and ashes of some Roman
+martyrs were afterwards added which were taken from the cemetery at
+Rome by the Abbot of San Pietro "to further enrich his church."
+
+
+THE CONFRATERNITIES
+
+An enduring mark of St. Francis' influence is seen in the number of
+confraternities established in Assisi which, if they have lost many of
+their primitive customs, still retain a hold upon the people and are
+the great feature of the town. Hardly a day passes without seeing
+members either preparing for a service in one of their chapels, or
+following a church procession, or carrying the dead along the cypress
+walk from Porta S. Giacomo to the cemetery. Clothed in long grey
+hooded cloaks, holding lanterns and candles and singing their mediæval
+hymns, these citizens of the nineteenth century belong to Assisi of
+the past as much as all her frescoes and early buildings. Their origin
+goes back to the middle of the thirteenth century when, out of the
+great devotional movement due to St. Francis, arose that strange body
+of penitents the Flagellants, who are said to have first appeared in
+Perugia, and thence spread throughout Italy.[107] "The movement," says
+Dr Creighton, "passed away; but it left its dress as a distinctive
+badge to the confraternities of mercy which are familiar to the
+traveller in the streets of many cities of Italy." Assisi was among
+the first to witness the hordes of fanatics who roamed from town to
+town increasing as they passed like a swarm of locusts through the
+land, and often at night going forth into the streets clothed in white
+garments to dance a dance of the dead, clanging bones together as they
+sang. It was inevitable that their passage through Assisi should have
+its results, and many brotherhoods were founded; those who had no
+chapels of their own met in S. Pietro or S. Maria delle Rose, where
+they performed their penances, sometimes, as in the case of the
+Battuti (Flagellants), beating themselves as they sang the wild,
+love-inspired hymns of Jacopone da Todi, the franciscan poet of
+Umbria. Since those days their fervour has taken a more practical
+form, and very simple are their services.
+
+  [Illustration: CONFRATERNITY OF SAN FRANCESCUCCIO IN VIA GARIBALDI]
+
+The members of _San Francescuccio_, or _Delle Stimate_, ever to and
+fro upon some errand of mercy, belong to the most important
+confraternity, and own one of the most picturesque chapels in the
+towns. When its doors are open during early Mass or Benediction the
+sound of prayer and chanting comes across the quiet road, and in the
+blaze of candle-light is seen the great Crucifixion of Ottaviano Nelli
+(?) in the lunette of the wall above the altar. At other times, the
+chapel being so sunk below the level of the road with no windows to
+light it, both fresco and the charming groined roof, blue as that of
+San Francesco, can with difficulty be seen. The pent roof outside
+overshadows some Umbrian frescoes by Matteo da Gualdo recording the
+famous miracle of the roses which flowered for St. Francis in the
+snow, and which he offered to the Virgin at the Altar of the
+Portiuncula. On the wall to the right are some ruined frescoes in
+terra-verde by a scholar of Matteo.
+
+Another confraternity in this street is _San Crispino_, which once
+possessed a picture by Niccolò Alunno, but that has long since
+disappeared, and only faint patches of colour remain above its
+gateway. There are many other confraternities, but as they do not all
+possess pictures of interest, we only mention three others; and first
+of these, the _Oratory of St. Anthony the Abbot_, or _Chiesa dei
+Pellegrini_, which every visitor to Assisi ought to visit.[108] After
+the Church of San Francesco it is by far the most important sight of
+the town; a Lombard façade, a Roman temple, or a mediæval castle,
+delightful and beautiful as they are, may be seen elsewhere, but we
+know nothing with such individual charm as the little chapel of St.
+Anthony, in the Via Superba. So often a hundred vicissitudes arrested
+the adornment of a building during those troubled times of the middle
+ages, but here we find a small and perfectly proportioned oratory
+decorated with frescoes upon the ceiling and upon every wall, by two
+Umbrian masters who have sought to make it a complete and perfect
+sanctuary of Umbrian art.
+
+Built in 1431 by the piety of the brotherhood of St. Anthony the
+Abbot, it served as a private chapel to the adjoining hospital, where
+pilgrims coming to pray at the shrine of St. Francis found food and
+shelter for three days. The liberal donations given by Guidantonio,
+Duke of Urbino and sometime Lord of Assisi, whose devotion to the
+saint was great, may have enabled the confraternity to adorn it with
+its many frescoes. Outside, in the arched niche above the door, are
+the patrons of the chapel, St. Anthony and St. James of Campostello,
+that great saint of pilgrims, with a frieze of small angels above them
+playing upon various instruments, also by Matteo da Gualdo. To him we
+owe the fair Madonna over the altar who gazes so dreamily before her,
+and sits so straight upon her throne. Angels gather round bending
+towards their instruments with earnest faces; Matteo's angels can
+never only calmly pray, they must sing or else play on tambourines,
+viole d'amore, cymbals and organs. Less pleasing are the large figures
+of St. James and St. Anthony, while in contrast to them are the
+slender winged figures on either side bearing tall candelabra, and
+moving forward with such stately step, their white garments sweeping
+in long folds behind them, their fair curls just ruffled by the air.
+Surely Matteo must have been thinking of a group of babies at play in
+the cornfields, or under the hedges near his own Umbrian town, when he
+painted that frieze of laughing children, with little caps fitting so
+closely round their heads, who are tossing the branches of red and
+white roses up into the air. Each one is different, and all are full
+of graceful movement. They divide the frescoes below from that of the
+Annunciation, which recalls the manner of Boccatis da Camerino, the
+master of Matteo. He paints a swallow, the bird of returning spring,
+perched outside the Virgin's bedroom, to symbolise the promise of
+redemption, and a lion cub meant to represent the lion of Judah walks
+leisurely towards the Madonna.
+
+Matteo da Gualdo, as the inscription tells, worked here in 1468, and
+Pier Antonio da Foligno, known as Mezzastris, came in 1482 to paint
+the rest of the chapel, and upon the right wall he related the most
+famous of St. James' miracles in a naïve and delightful manner. The
+legends tell how in the time of Pope Calixtus II, a certain German
+with his wife and son on their way to the saint's Spanish shrine of
+Campostello lodged at Tolosa, where their host's daughter fell in love
+with the fair young German. But he, being a cautious youth, resisted
+every advance of the Spanish maiden, who sought to avenge herself by
+hiding a silver drinking cup belonging to her father in his wallet.
+The theft was discovered, and the judge of Tolosa condemned the young
+pilgrim to be hanged. Pier Antonio has painted the scene when the
+father and mother, after visiting Campostello, return to take a last
+look at the place where their son was executed and find him well: "O
+my mother! O my father!" he says, "do not lament for me, as I have
+never been in better cheer, the blessed Apostle James is at my side,
+sustaining me and filling me with celestial joy and comfort." In the
+fresco near the altar the story is continued; the judge, stout and
+imposing as one of Benozzo Gozzoli's Florentine merchants, is seated
+at a table in crimson and ermine robes surrounded by his friends, when
+the pilgrim and his wife arrive and beg him to release their son.
+Somewhat bored at being interrupted at his banquet he mocks them,
+saying: "What meanest thou, good woman? Thou art beside thyself. If
+thy son lives so do these fowls before me." No sooner had he spoken
+than, to the astonishment of all, the cock and hen stood up on the
+dish and the cock began to crow, as we see in Mezzastris' fresco. On
+the opposite wall are miracles of St. Anthony. In the fresco near the
+door he is sitting in the porch of the church surrounded by his
+companion hermits; they are watching the arrival of camels which, in
+answer to the saint's prayer, have brought a supply of food neatly
+corded on their backs. The artist has pictured the desert with sandy
+mountains, little flowers growing in the burning sand and thick grass
+in the wood by the convent. In the second fresco St. Anthony, beneath
+a portico of lapis lazzuli and green serpentine, is distributing the
+food brought by the friendly camels, to the beggars, who appear as
+suddenly upon the scene as the beggars do in an Assisan street.
+
+The four figures in the ceiling, Pope Leo III, St. Bonaventure, St.
+Isidor of Seville and St. Augustine, and the angels with shield-shaped
+wings, are also by Mezzastris. A graceful piece of his work is the
+Christ above the door, in a glory of angels who form a wreath around
+Him with their wings like sheaves of yellow wheat. Delightful, but
+very different from Matteo's, are the cupid-angels flying across the
+sky on clouds, and the two seated playing with a shield upon which is
+painted the pilgrim's scallop-shell.
+
+  [Illustration: MONTE FRUMENTARIO IN THE VIA PRINCIPE DI NAPOLI]
+
+The figure of St. James near the door is of small interest, being a
+much restored work of a pupil of Perugino; but in the dark corner on
+the other side is, says Mr Berenson, a youthful work of Fiorenzo di
+Lorenzo. It is the young St. Ansano holding his lungs suspended
+daintily from one finger as in the fresco of S. Paolo, and looking so
+charming in his page's dress, his fair curls falling about his
+shoulders. He stands at the entrance of a cave with pointed rocks
+above, and saxifrage and ferns delicately drawn are growing in their
+crevices. Would that Mezzastris had given his pupil a larger space of
+wall to work on, so that we might have had more saints and landscapes
+like these. We leave the chapel with regret, giving one last look at
+Matteo's Madonna and his frieze of child-angels, and then go out into
+the long broad Via Principe di Napole. Its fine palaces, once the
+abode of some of the richest nobles of the town, have now been turned
+into schools and hospitals, and our thoughts once more revert to the
+past days of prosperity and magnificence as we walk along this grand
+but silent street where the grass grows unmolested between the stones.
+A little way further on to the right is the fine _loggia_ of the
+_Monte Frumentario_ which in olden times was an agricultural Monte di
+Pietà, where the peasants who had no other possessions than the
+produce of the fields would come to pawn their grain in time of need.
+The door is finely sculptured, and the delicate chiselling of the
+capitals of the pillars of the _loggia_ mark it as a work of the
+fourteenth century. Not far from the Chiesa dei Pellegrini, but to the
+left, stands one of the oldest Assisan houses which does not seem to
+have suffered much alteration since it was built. It was the lodge of
+the Comacine guild of workers, who have left their sign of the rose
+between the compass over the entrance, and two pieces of sculpture,
+showing that those to whom the house belonged were people who worked
+at some trade. It does not appear to have been a dwelling-house, but
+only a place where the members of the guild, employed in building the
+different civil and religious buildings for the Assisans, could meet
+together to discuss their interests, draw out their plans and execute
+different pieces of their work. They probably did not build the house,
+but perhaps in the year 1485, which is the date above the door,
+adapted for their use one already standing.[109] It is always pointed
+out as the _Casa di Metastasio_, but his paternal dwelling is a less
+interesting house, standing at the angle of Via S. Giacomo and Via S.
+Croce, which can be reached from the Comacine Lodge by the steep
+by-street of S. Andrea. Metastasio, though the Trapassi were Assisans,
+had little to do with the town as his family were engaged in trade at
+Rome, where he was born in 1698. There he was found improvising songs
+to a crowd of wondering people by the celebrated Vincenzo Gravina, who
+adopted and educated him. When set to music, Metastasio's poetry
+brought all Rome to his feet and earned him the title of Cæsarean poet
+from the Emperor Charles VI; he ended his life at the court of Vienna
+as the favourite of Maria Theresa, honoured by all the great musicians
+of the day. Truly he has little to do with Assisi, yet he must be
+added to the list of her numerous illustrious citizens.
+
+  [Illustration: HOUSE OF THE COMACINE BUILDERS IN THE VIA PRINCIPE DI
+  NAPOLE]
+
+Following the street by the Casa di Metastasio, we get into
+delightful lanes above the town and reach another little
+confraternity, the oldest of all, _San Rufinuccio_.[110] Its small
+chapel, built of alternate layers of pink and white Subasian stone, is
+a very characteristic example of an Umbrian way-side sanctuary, always
+open in the olden days for the peasants to come into for rest and
+prayer. It is worth a visit, not only because the way there is
+beautiful, but also for the grand Crucifixion painted above the altar
+by the decorator of St. Nicholas' Chapel in San Francesco. It is a
+strong and splendid composition, which even much repainting has been
+unable to destroy. Unfortunately the scenes at the sides can only just
+be seen. Below, the half-length Madonna and angels by another artist
+recall the Annunciation of S. Pietro, in the marked outline of their
+pale faces and the rainbow colour of clothes and wings.
+
+Turning off from the Via Nuova to the left we mount still higher
+through the olive groves along a path possessing no name, but which is
+the nicest way to the heights above the town. We come in a few minutes
+to the confraternity of _San Lorenzo_, standing somewhat below the
+level of the castle. It has nothing of interest inside, but behind the
+wooden covering of the gateway at the side is a fresco by an unknown
+Umbrian artist, an Assisan perhaps, who above the Virgin's throne
+signs himself "Chola Pictor." He paints the faces of his saints with a
+smooth surface, betraying the influence of Simone Martini which he
+felt together with many of his fellow Umbrian artists. The Virgin's
+throne is full of wonderful ornaments; unfortunately the fresco has
+suffered from a large crack across the wall. Very quaint is a group of
+hooded members of the confraternity at her feet, and there is a
+charming figure of St. Rufino, young, with an oval face and brown
+eyes, but to be seen only from the top of a ladder as he is painted in
+a corner of the arch. It has been suggested to remove this much-ruined
+painting to the safer custody of the Municipio, but we hope this will
+not occur, for, taken away from its gateway on the hillside, where the
+redstarts build their nests and the evening sun lights up the colour
+in the Virgin's face, its interest and charm would be lost.
+
+
+THE CASTLE OR "LA ROCCA D'ASSISI"
+
+Within her city walls Assisi possesses nothing wilder or more
+beautiful than the undulating slopes which rise from the city up to
+the Castle, where wild orchises grow among the grass, and the hedges
+of acacia wind around the hill. The town lies so directly below, that
+by stepping to the edge and looking across the white acacias, we can
+only see a mass of brown roofs all purple at sundown, the tops of
+towers and the battlements of gateways. Then there are places where
+the grassy hillocks stand up so high that they hide the town
+altogether, and we seem to be looking out upon the broad vista of the
+valley from an isolated peak. At all times it is beautiful; but choose
+a stormy day in springtime, when the clouds are driving upwards from
+the plain only lately covered with mist, and the nearer hills are dark
+their cities catching the late evening sunshine as it breaks through
+the storm, while wind-swept Subasio looks bleak in the white light
+showing here and there patches of palest green. And behind us,
+cresting the hill, so near the town yet seen absolutely alone and
+clear against the sky, rise the tower and the vast walls of the Rocca
+d'Assisi, looking, not like a ruin crumbling beneath the constant
+driving of wind and rain, but as though torn down in war-time, grand
+in its destruction. It stands upon the site of an ancient burial
+ground, where in remote times the Umbrian augurs came to watch for
+omens from the heights of a tower that is said to have crowned the
+summit. The legend of this building gave rise to the belief that a
+castle stood here in very early times which was taken by Totila when
+he besieged Assisi. But it is more probable that when Charlemagne
+rebuilt the town in 733 after it had been destroyed by his army, he
+also erected a castle to enable the Papal emissaries to keep the
+people in subjection; or perhaps the citizens themselves may have
+wished to protect themselves more securely from passing armies (see p.
+16). It ended by becoming, much to the displeasure of the people the
+residence of whoever held Assisi for the time, and in the twelfth
+century they experienced the despotic rule of Conrad of Suabia, who
+lived here with his young charge, Frederic II. When, by the superior
+power of the Pope, Conrad was driven out of Umbria, the citizens did
+their best to destroy the walls which had harboured a tyrant, and to
+avoid further tyranny they obtained an edict forbidding the erection
+of another fortress. But promises such as these were vain indeed, for
+when, in 1367, escaping from the hated yoke of the Perugians Assisi
+welcomed Cardinal Albornoz in the Pope's name as her ruler, she lent a
+willing ear to his plans for rebuilding the castle. The people were
+well satisfied as they watched the improvements he made in the town,
+and two centuries had so dimmed the remembrances of Conrad's tyranny,
+that they gladly assisted him, little deeming that they were giving
+away their liberty. Albornoz, not slow to perceive what a valuable
+possession it would prove to the rulers of Assisi, spared neither
+money nor efforts to make it large and strong. By his orders the
+castle keep, which we see to this day, called the "maschio," and the
+squarely-set walls enclosing it were erected, and in a very few years
+the Rocca again rose proudly on its hill, warning the Umbrian people
+of its newly-found importance, and enticing passing _condottieri_ to
+lay siege to a town that offered so fine a prize. Albornoz also
+rebuilt most of the city walls which had been so battered during the
+Perugian wars; we can trace them from gateway to gateway encircling
+the city, and it is curious to see how in the upper portion near San
+Rufino large open spaces exist, as if in those active days when the
+Assisans had hopes of becoming powerful, they purposely set the walls
+far back to provide for a large and flourishing town. The feeling of
+arrested growth is one of the most mournful spectacles, and we half
+wonder if the great castle dominating the heights was not in part the
+cause of it. There was war enough at the time, inevitable among the
+restless factions of a people groping towards freedom and power, but
+here above the town was placed a fresh cause of dissension and
+struggle against perpetual bondage through varied tyrannies.
+
+Albornoz, in planning out the city walls, discovered that the part
+between Porta Cappuccini and Porta Perlici, where the hill descends
+towards the ravine, needed protection, so he built the strong fortress
+of San Antonio known as the Rocca Minore. It had a separate governor
+or Castellano, and though of minor importance, proved very efficient
+in repelling the attacks of besieging armies. The principal tower,
+though somewhat ruined, still looks very fine within its square
+enclosure of massive walls, now covered in places with heavy curtains
+of ivy, the home of countless birds. A pious Castellano in the
+fifteenth century left a fresco of the Crucifixion in the chapel with
+his portrait at the foot of the Cross, and as we look at it through
+the wooden gateway we are reminded of what otherwise from the deserted
+look of the place it is easy to forget, that people once lived and
+prayed at the Rocca as well as fought.
+
+  [Illustration: LOOKING ACROSS THE ASSISAN ROOFS TOWARDS THE EAST]
+
+Cardinal Albornoz left the castle in charge of two Assisan captains,
+but from 1376 an uninterrupted line of governors received their
+salaries from whoever was master of Assisi at the time. Always chosen
+from other towns their privileges were quite distinct from those of
+the civil governors; but in the fifteenth century, owing to the
+weakness of the Priors, who failed to keep order among the lawless
+nobles of the town, their power increased. The Papal Legate then gave
+into the hands of the Castellano authority to issue edicts which the
+Priors had to obey, and in 1515 he was invested with the title of
+Podestà and Pretor of Assisi. But none of these governors seems to
+have misused their power over the town, probably because their rule
+was of too short a duration to carry out any ambitious scheme. And
+when the despot for the time being of Assisi came to stay, he took up
+his quarters in the castle, ruling governors, magistrates and people
+alike. In the time of the despot Broglia di Trino, we hear of the
+Priors wearily toiling up the steep ascent to place before him the
+acts they had passed in the municipal palace. He received them always
+in the open air, holding his councils either in the first enclosure by
+the well, or in the second by the castle keep, where many important
+conclusions were arrived at, and plans for the city's dominion laid
+out.
+
+So perfect is the harmony of the castle from wherever it is seen, that
+it is difficult to realise how many hands have formed it, how many
+times its walls have been battered down and rebuilt at different
+periods by popes, cardinals, and passing _condottieri_, who have
+nearly all left their arms upon its walls as a record of their
+munificence. After Albornoz had built the principal mass of
+fortifications little was done until 1458, when Jacopo Piccinino, the
+son of the great general, entered Assisi as master, and obtained
+immediate possession of the Rocca. His reign was short, but with the
+quick eye of a soldier he soon discovered the weakness of the western
+slope, and seeing that it might be carried by assault from Porta San
+Giacomo, he laid the foundations of a polygonal tower and a long wall
+connecting it with the main building. The Comacine builders
+established in Assisi were employed and left their sign, the rose
+between the compass and the mason's square, upon its lower walls. But
+long before the work was half completed Piccinino sold the city to the
+Pope, and it was Æneas Piccolomini, Pius II, who, when he visited
+Assisi in 1459, ordered it to be brought to a termination; within a
+year the wall was raised to its full height, the tower received its
+battlements and the arms of the Piccolomini were placed above those of
+Piccinino. The covered gallery, running along the top of the wall from
+the castle, still leads the visitor to the giddy heights of the tower
+whence he obtains truly a bird's-eye view of all the country round,
+from Spoleto to Perugia, across range upon range of hills towards
+Tuscany, and from Bettona to the wild tract of mountainous country
+leading to Nocera, Gualdo and Gubbio.
+
+To recount the full history of the castle needs a book to itself, and
+would include not only the history of Assisi but almost of all
+Umbria.[111] The possession of the Rocco Maggiore entailed that of the
+Rocca Minore and gave undisputed sway over Assisi, so that the
+desperate efforts made to hold it can be understood. During the
+intervals when Papal authority was relaxed, we find the names of many
+famous people whose armies fought for this much contested prize.
+Biordo Michelotti, Count Guido of Montefeltro, the two Piccininos,
+Francesco Sforza and Gian Galeazzo Visconti, were in succession its
+owners. Cosmo de' Medici obtained it from Pope Eugenius IV, in payment
+of a bad debt, and a Florentine governor ruled over it for a year. It
+even, together with the town of Assisi, became the property of
+Lucrezia Borgia, who received it from Alexander VI, as part of her
+dower on her marriage with Giovanni Sforza, Lord of Pesaro. Sometimes
+it happened that a private citizen of Perugia conceived the ambitious
+scheme of making himself master of the castle, and by fraud the
+Castellano would be enticed outside the gates and murdered with his
+family. But it always ended by Perugia, fearing the wrath of the Pope,
+or not liking one of their own citizens to gain so much power, sending
+an army to dislodge the tyrant, who soon lost his head. Sometimes
+criminals were kept imprisoned in the castle; we can still see the
+room in the keep where they scratched their names upon the wall, with
+many references to their horror of the place, and a roughly traced
+heart pierced with an arrow. Ordinary malefactors were shut up in a
+dark cell on the stairs. When their crimes merited death they were
+executed on the Piazza della Minerva, or if time pressed, the
+Castellano hanged them from the battlements of the fortress or threw
+them out of a window into the ravine below. The governors had a
+difficult and not a very peaceful time, for they had not only to guard
+against outside foes, but occasionally against a faction who attempted
+to get possession of the castle, and great on those occasions was the
+fight outside its walls. It was in vain that they took every
+precaution for the general safety, that a night guard walked up and
+down the Assisan streets playing his castanets to warn off all
+evil-doers, or that men-at-arms watched incessantly from the castle
+battlements. In the sixteenth century the castle became a prey to the
+rival families of the Nepis and the Fiumi who divided Assisi between
+them. First it fell into the hands of Jacopo Fiumi and the Pope,
+Alexander VI, furious when he heard of this citizen's audacious act,
+wrote that "by love or by force" he would have his fortress back
+again; but Jacopo remained impervious to threats or promises and held
+out for another year, until the Priors fearing the anger of the Pope
+came to an agreement with him. Some thirty years later the Nepis
+obtained possession of it by treachery and violence, and it required
+all the astuteness of Malatesta Baglione, who was fighting for Clement
+VII, to dislodge them, while the Pope branded them and their adherents
+as "sons of iniquity" for having dared to wrest from the Papacy the
+castle of Assisi.
+
+  [Illustration: VIEW OF SAN FRANCESCO FROM BENEATH THE CASTLE WALLS]
+
+But the days of the great military importance of the Rocca were fast
+drawing to a close; Assisi, no longer oppressed by the nobles,
+harassed by the armies of Perugia, or alarmed by the coming of the
+despots whose power was on the wane all over Italy, lost her character
+of individuality as a fighting and turbulent city, and sank beneath
+the wise and beneficent government of the Papacy. With the arrival of
+Paul III, in 1535, the final blow was given to mediæval usages of war
+and scheming in Umbria. The great Farnese Pope was building his
+fortress at Perugia to finally crush that hitherto indomitable people,
+and fearing the Assisans might yet give trouble in the future to his
+legates as they had so often done in the past, he gave orders that the
+fortress should be repaired, and a bastion suitable for the more
+modern methods of warfare be built to the right of the castle keep.
+This is now the best preserved portion of the building. For some time
+a Castellano still remained in command of the castle but his title was
+purely a nominal one, and his chief duty seems to have consisted in
+guarding prisoners. Its political need having disappeared the popes
+thought less of their Assisan fortress, the one lately erected at
+Perugia being more efficient as a safeguard of their interests, and
+gradually its walls showed signs of decay, but no papal legates were
+sent to see to their repair. So terribly did it suffer during the
+years that followed the reign of Paul III, that in 1726 we read of the
+governor of the city sending an earnest supplication to the Pope that
+"this strong and ancient castle of Assisi, which had always been the
+chief fortress of Umbria, should be saved from ruin." The Pope, he
+tells us in another letter, had already sent Count Aureli, the
+military governor of Umbria, to inspect it, who declared it was "one
+of the strongest and most splendid fortresses of the ecclesiastical
+states, and as fine as any he had seen in France or in Flanders, when
+as head page he had accompanied Louis XIV." In the same document there
+is mention also of beautiful paintings in the chief rooms, and of a
+miraculous Crucifixion in the chapel, but these decorations, needless
+to say, have long since disappeared. Entreaties were vainly sent to
+Rome; the castle was so utterly abandoned that its gates stood open
+for all to roam in and out as they pleased, pulling down the ancient
+arms of the popes, and vying with the storms to complete its ruin and
+destruction. Such was its strength that it endured the ill-treatment
+of seasons and of men, and people now alive remember in their youth to
+have seen it still roofed in and possessing much of its former
+magnificence. A little money might have restored it to its pristine
+state, but during those years of struggle for the Unity of Italy the
+general fever of excitement invaded the quiet town, and as if
+remembering all the tyrants their castle walls had harboured, and the
+skirmishes their ancestors had fought beneath them, the citizens
+continued its destruction with renewed vigour. It was no uncommon
+thing to see cartloads of stones being taken down the hill for the
+construction of some modern dwelling, or boys amusing themselves by
+throwing down portions of the walls, and trying who could succeed in
+making great blocks of masonry reach the bed of the torrent below.
+Luckily the government gave it over to the commune of Assisi in 1883
+and they did something towards its repair, though within certain
+limits, for a large sum would have been necessary to complete its
+restoration.
+
+But it still remains a very wonderful corner of Assisi, and delightful
+hours may be passed sitting in the castle keep and looking out of the
+large windows upon a land so strangely peaceful, with little cities
+gathered on the hills or lying by some river in the plain. We see the
+battered walls around us bearing traces of ancient warfare, and wonder
+at the power which made the mediæval turmoil so suddenly subside. In
+vain we scan the valley for the coming of a warlike cardinal with
+glittering horsemen in his rear, or look for Gian Paolo Baglione
+riding hastily through the town upon his swift black charger. The
+communal armies met for the last time by the Tiber many centuries ago;
+popes, emperors, _condottieri_ and saints have passed like pageants
+across Umbria, and as if touched by a magician's wand have as suddenly
+vanished, leaving her cities with only the memories of an active and
+glorious past. Thus Assisi, with the rest of the smaller towns,
+gradually sank as a prosperous and governing city though decidedly not
+as a place of pilgrimage and prayer, into that deep sleep from which
+she has never again awakened.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[103] Bernhard Berenson, "Central Italian painters of the
+Renaissance," p. 86.
+
+[104] Goethe's Werke, _Italiänische Reise_, I., vol. 27, pp. 184, _et
+seq._, J. G. Cotta, 1829.
+
+[105] The key is obtained from the Canonico Modestini's house, No. 27a
+Via S. Paolo.
+
+[106] The legend that St. Francis was born in a stable only dates from
+the fifteenth century and arose out of the desire of the franciscans
+to make his life resemble that of Christ. The site of this stable,
+which is now a chapel, is of no interest whatever.
+
+[107] See _Story of Perugia_ (mediæval series), p. 211, for the legend
+of their origin in that town.
+
+[108] The chapel is also called the _Chiesa di S. Caterina_ because
+the members of that confraternity have charge of it. It is often open,
+but should it be closed, there is always some one about ready to
+obtain the key from the house in the same street Via Superba, now Via
+Principe di Napoli, No. 12, opposite Palazzo Bernabei.
+
+[109] See Signor Alfonso Brizi's _Loggia dei Maestri Comacini in
+Assisi_, No. 1, April 185, of the _Atti dell' Accademia Properziana
+del Subasio in Assisi_.
+
+[110] Both the key of _San Rufinuccio_ and _San Lorenzo_ can be
+obtained through the sacristan of the Cathedral.
+
+[111] This work has been admirably done by Signor Alfonso Brizi. In
+his _Rocca d'Assisi_, published in 1898, he has given a very
+interesting account of its many rulers and vicissitudes, and a full
+description of the building, together with all the documents relating
+to it.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+_Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli. The Feast of the Pardon of St.
+Francis or "il Perdono d'Assisi"_
+
+
+The sanctuary of the Portiuncula has, in its present surroundings,
+rightly been called a jewel within a casket--a casket indeed too large
+for so small a gem. But the great Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli
+was the best the Umbrians could procure for the object they loved best
+after their Basilica in the town, and the famous architects of the day
+were called in to build it.[112] A smaller shelter would have served
+the purpose in earlier times but the ever increasing flow of pilgrims
+who came in thousands for the "Perdono" rendered it necessary to think
+about a church large enough to contain them; and it was the dominican
+Pope Pius V, who enabled the work to be commenced in 1569, giving
+large sums to the vast enterprise. Jacopo Barozio da Vignola gave the
+ground-plan, leaving the execution of it, at his death in 1573, to be
+carried out by the well-known Perugian architect and sculptor, Giulio
+Danti, and his fellow-citizen Galeazzo Alessi, who designed the fine
+cupola and arches. The church was built in the doric style, divided
+into nave and aisles with numberless side chapels; and certainly they
+succeeded in giving it a great feeling of space and loftiness, which
+if less charming than the mysterious gloom of other churches yet seems
+to belong better to the open and sunlit Umbrian plain, where it rises
+as a beacon to the people for many miles round. The earthquake in
+1832, which laid the villages near Ponte San Giovanni in almost total
+ruin, shook down the nave and choir of the Angeli creating havoc
+impossible to describe. By supreme good fortune, shall we say by a
+miracle, the cupola of Danti and Alessi remained intact above the
+Portiuncula, which otherwise would have been utterly destroyed. In
+rebuilding the church, Poletti, the Roman architect employed, deviated
+slightly from Vignola's original plan, and further he erected a more
+elaborate and far less elegant façade than the first one, but baroque
+as it is we may be thankful that the niches for statues of the saints
+have remained empty. There have been other earthquakes since that of
+1832, and when they occurred a pyramid of faggots was carefully piled
+upon the Portiuncula for protection in case a miracle might not
+intervene a second time to save it from destruction.
+
+The friars took an active part in the work, building the campanile and
+carving the handsome pulpit and the cupboards in the sacristy. The
+marble altar was given in 1782 by Mehemet Ali, the ruler of Egypt, and
+many noble Italian families contributed towards the erection of the
+chapels containing decadent paintings which it would be useless to
+describe or to look at. One priceless treasure ornaments the chapel of
+San Giuseppe (in the left transept), a work of Andrea della Robbia in
+terra-cotta of blue and white which is like a portion of the sky seen
+through the cool branches of a vine on a glaring summer's day. Andrea
+is truly the sculptor of the franciscans, for there are but few of his
+works where an incident from St. Francis' life is not introduced, and
+with what feeling they are realised. On one side of the beautiful
+Madonna who bends to receive her crown from the hands of the Saviour,
+is represented with great dignity and simplicity St. Francis receiving
+the Stigmata, on the other St. Jerome and his lion. Beneath is a
+predella divided into three compartments, the Annunciation, Christ in
+the manger, and the Adoration of the Magi; and Andrea has framed in
+the whole with a slightly raised garland of apples, fir-cones and
+Japanese medlars, which suits the delicacy of the workmanship of the
+small scenes better than a heavier wreath of fruit and leaves. In the
+Capella delle Reliquie (in the right transept) is a Crucifixion
+painted on panel by Giunta Pisano (?) with medallion half figures of
+the Virgin and St. John; below are kneeling angels by an Umbrian
+artist, whose work contrasts most strangely with the ancient painting
+belonging to the dark years before Giotto.
+
+In a preceding chapter we lamented the efforts that have been made to
+decorate the Portiuncula, now alas no longer the shrine among the oak
+trees; not only in earlier centuries did Umbrian artists cover its
+rough stones in many parts with frescoes, but the German artist
+Overbeck has added another superfluous decoration to the façade,
+severely, but justly criticised by M. Taine, and a German lady has
+painted the Annunciation on the apse. A very small picture by Sano di
+Pietro of the Madonna and Child hangs above, a very charming example
+of the master's work. Very little remains of Pietro Perugino's
+Crucifixion, and what there is has been well covered over with modern
+paint. The choir of the monks built outside the Portiuncula having
+been removed in the eighteenth century half of Perugino's fresco was
+destroyed, leaving only the groups of people at the foot of the Cross,
+amongst whom we recognise St. Francis.
+
+A naïve legend is recalled to us by the stone slab let into the wall
+close to the side entrance, recording the spot where Pietro Cataneo,
+the first vicar of the Order during the life of the saint, is buried.
+He was as holy as the rest of those first enthusiasts, and after death
+so many miracles were wrought at his tomb that the peace of the friars
+was disturbed. The case becoming serious they had recourse to St.
+Francis who, seeing the danger that their lonely abode would become a
+place of pilgrimage, addressed an admonition to Pietro Cataneo, saying
+that as he had ever been obedient in life so must he be in death and
+cease to perform such marvellous miracles. After this when peasants
+came to pray for some favour at his tomb no answer was vouchsafed, so
+that gradually their faith in his intercession ceased and peace again
+reigned at the Portiuncula.
+
+The extent of the present church is so immense that the site of all
+the scattered huts of the brethren and the little orchard so carefully
+tended by the saint, are contained within its walls. Over what was the
+infirmary where St. Francis died St. Bonaventure built a chapel which
+Lo Spagna decorated with portraits (?) of the first franciscans, now
+seen very dimly like shadows on its walls by the flickering light of
+the tapers. Out of the half gloom stands strongly outlined in a niche
+above the altar, a beautiful terra-cotta statue of St. Francis by
+Andrea della Robbia. The hood is thrown back, the head slightly
+raised, and in the sad but calm expression of the exquisitely modelled
+face Andrea conveys a truer feeling of the suffering Poverello than
+all the so-called portraits. One of these, said to be painted on the
+lid of the saint's coffin by Giunta Pisano, hangs outside the chapel,
+but it looks more like a bad copy of Cimabue's St. Francis in the
+Lower Church, and we would fain leave with the remembrance unspoilt
+of Andrea's fine conception. Passing through the sacristy containing a
+head of Christ by an unknown follower of Perugino and a small Guido
+Reni (?), we reach the chapel of St. Charles Borromeo where an ancient
+and much restored portrait of St. Francis, said to be painted on part
+of his bed, hangs above the altar; it is in every way less interesting
+than the one in the sacristy of the Lower Church. From here an open
+colonnade leads past a little plot of ground, which in the days of the
+Little Brethren was the orchard of the convent. One day as the saint
+left his cell he stopped a moment to speak with the friar who attended
+to the land, "begging him not to cultivate only vegetables, but to
+leave a little portion for those plants which in due time would bring
+forth brother flowers, for the love of Him who is called 'flower of
+the field and lily of the valley.'" Accordingly a "fair little garden"
+was made, and often while St. Francis caressingly touched the flowers,
+his spirit seemed to those who watched him to be no longer upon earth
+but to have already reached its home. On the other side, carefully
+preserved within wire netting, is the famous Garden of Roses, and
+standing in the midst, like ruins of some temple, are the four pillars
+which in olden times supported a roof above the Portiuncula. In the
+days when St. Francis had his hut close by, this cultivated garden was
+only a wilderness of brambles in the forest, and the legend tells how
+the saint being assailed by terrible temptation as he knelt at prayer
+through the watches of the night, ran out into the snow and rolled
+naked among the brambles and thorns to quiet the fierce battle within
+his soul. The moonlight suddenly broke through the clouds shining upon
+clusters of white and red roses, their leaves stained with the saint's
+blood which had fallen upon the brambles and produced these thornless
+flowers, while celestial spirits filled the air with hymns of praise.
+Throwing a silken garment over him and flooding his pathway with
+heavenly radiance, the angel led him to the Portiuncula where the
+Madonna and Child appeared to him in a vision. The legend has been
+often illustrated, Overbeck's fresco on the façade of the chapel
+records it yet again where St. Francis is represented as offering to
+the Virgin the roses he had gathered.
+
+  [Illustration: THE GARDEN OF THE ROSES AT STA. MARIA DEGLI ANGELI]
+
+A few steps beyond the Garden of the Roses lies the Chapel of the
+Roses built by St. Bonaventure over the hut of St. Francis, which was
+afterwards enlarged by St. Bernardine. The place where he spent his
+few moments of repose and so many hours of prayer, can be seen through
+the grating on a level with the chapel floor, and resembles more the
+lair of a wild animal than an ordinary abode of man; but such places
+were dear to him, and he rejoiced in having the open forest outside
+his cell into which he wandered at all times of the day and night, and
+where the brethren, ever curious to watch their beloved and holy
+master, could see him on moonlight nights holding sweet converse with
+heavenly spirits. The choir of the chapel is frescoed by Lo Spagna who
+repeated again the figures of the first franciscans, adding those of
+St. Bonaventure, St. Bernardine of Siena, St. Louis of Toulouse, and
+St. Anthony of Padua on the left wall, and St. Clare and St. Elisabeth
+of Hungary on the right wall. The fresco on the ceiling is said to be
+by Pinturricchio. The paintings in the nave by Tiberio d'Assisi are
+faintly coloured and a poor example of Umbrian art; only the last
+scene is interesting, where St. Francis publishes the indulgence in
+the presence of the seven bishops, as it gives an accurate
+representation of the Portiuncula in the fifteenth century with
+Niccolò da Foligno's fresco still upon the façade. It tells the legend
+of the "Perdono" which even to the present day plays so important a
+part in the religious life of Assisi, bringing crowds every year to
+the Portiuncula for whom the Angeli was finally built. Disentangling
+the story from the legend by no means diminishes its charm, while we
+get a very striking historical scene showing us St. Francis in yet
+another light. Once when the saint was praying at the Portiuncula,
+Christ and his Mother appeared to him to ask what favour he desired,
+for it would be granted by reason of his great faith. The salvation of
+souls being ever the burden of his prayers he begged for a plenary
+indulgence, to be earned by all who should enter the Portiuncula on a
+special day. "What thou askest, O Francis," replied Christ, "is very
+great; but thou art worthy of still greater favours. I grant thy
+prayer; but go and find my Vicar, the Sovereign Pontiff Honorius III,
+at Perugia, and ask him in my name for this indulgence." Early next
+morning St. Francis, accompanied by Peter Cataneo and Angelo da Rieti,
+started along the road to Perugia where Innocent III, had but lately
+died and the pious Honorius been immediately elected as his successor.
+It was in the early summer of 1216 that the little band of friars were
+led into the presence of the Pope in the old Canonica, but not for the
+first time did St. Francis find himself in the presence of Rome's
+sovereign, gaining his cause now as before through the great love that
+made his words and actions seem inspired. At first the Pope murmured
+at the immensity of the favour asked but finally, his heart being
+touched by the fervour of the saint, he said: "For how many years do
+you desire this indulgence. Perchance for one or two, or will you that
+I grant it to you for seven?" The Pope had still to learn the depths
+of love in the saint's heart who stood before him pleading so
+earnestly for the souls of men, not during his life only, but during
+centuries to come. "O Messer il Papa," cried St. Francis in accents
+almost of despair, "why speakest thou of years and of time? I ask thee
+not for years, but I ask thee for souls." "It is not the custom of the
+Roman Curia," answered the Pope, "to grant such an indulgence."
+
+"Your Holiness," said the saint, "it is not I who ask for it, but He
+who has sent me, the Lord Jesus Christ."
+
+The Pope conquered by these words and driven by a sudden impulse said,
+"We accord thee the indulgence." The Cardinals who had remained silent
+now began to murmur and reminded the Pope, like cautious guardians of
+the Papal interests, that this plenary indulgence would greatly
+interfere with those granted for pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and for
+visiting the tombs of the Blessed Apostles.
+
+"We have given and granted it to him," answered Honorius. "What has
+been done we cannot undo, but we will modify it so that the indulgence
+will be but for one full day." And motioning the saint to approach he
+said: "From henceforth we grant that whoso comes to and enters this
+church, being sincerely repentant and having received absolution,
+shall be absolved from all punishment and all faults, and we will that
+this indulgence be valid every year in perpetuity, but for one day
+only from the first vesper of the one day until the first vesper of
+the next." Hardly had the Pope ceased speaking when St. Francis
+radiant with joy turned to depart.
+
+"_O semplicione quo vadis?_ O simple child without guile, whither
+goest thou? Whither goest thou without the document ratifying so great
+a favour?" quoth the Pope.
+
+"If this indulgence," answered the saint, "is the work of God, I have
+no need of any document, let the chart be the Blessed Virgin Mary, the
+notary Christ and my witnesses the angels."
+
+Round this historical interview the legend makers wove the pretty
+story of the roses which flowered in mid-winter among the snow,
+relating that after the concession of the indulgence in the summer of
+1216 occurred this rose miracle, and Christ in a vision bade the saint
+go to Rome in order that the day might be fixed for the gaining of the
+indulgence, and to convince Honorius of the truth of his revelation he
+was to carry some of the roses with him. But having already obtained
+the Pope's sanction at Perugia, it was unlikely that the saint would
+wait another year before proclaiming the glad tidings to all the
+country-side, and we may be sure that no sooner had he returned to the
+Portiuncula from Perugia than he made speedy preparations for the
+arrival of a great concourse of people. On the afternoon of the first
+of August the plain about the Portiuncula was filled with pilgrims
+from far and near, and many friars hastened from distant parts to
+listen to their master's wonderful message. He mounted the wooden
+pulpit which had been erected beneath an oak tree close to the chapel,
+followed by the seven Umbrian bishops who were to ratify his
+proclamation of the indulgence. St. Francis discoursed most eloquently
+to the assembled multitude and then in the fullness of his joy cried
+out to them, "I desire to send you all to Paradise," and announced the
+great favour he had obtained for them from the Holy Pontiff. When the
+bishops heard him proclaim the indulgence as "perpetual" they murmured
+among themselves, and finally exclaimed that he had misunderstood the
+words of the Pope, and that they intended to do only what was right
+and ratify the indulgence for ten years. Full of righteous feeling the
+bishop of Assisi stepped forward to correct the error into which the
+saint had fallen, but to the astonishment of his companions he
+declared the indulgence to have been granted for all time. Then the
+others murmured still more, saying he had done this because he was an
+Assisan and wished to bring great honour to his diocese; so the bishop
+of Perugia, determining to set the mistake right, began to speak, but
+he found himself forced by a supernatural power to proclaim the
+indulgence in the very words of St. Francis. The same thing happened
+to the other five bishops, and St. Francis then saw his dearest wishes
+realised.
+
+Daily the fame of the Portiuncula increased, and the year 1219
+witnessed another immense gathering of people, but this time it was
+the meeting of the five thousand franciscan friars who came from
+distant parts to attend the Easter Chapter held by St. Francis in the
+plain. One of the most vivid and interesting chapters (the xiii) in
+the _Fioretti_, pictures for us "the camp and army of the knights of
+God," all busily employed in holy converse about the affairs of the
+Order. It relates how "in that camp were shelters, roofed with lattice
+and mat, arranged in separate groups according to the diverse
+provinces whence came the friars; therefore was this Chapter called
+the Chapter of the Lattices or of the Mats; their bed was the bare
+earth, though some had a little straw, their pillows were stones or
+billets of wood. For which reason the devotion of those who heard or
+saw them was so great, and so great was the fame of their sanctity,
+that from the court of the Pope who was then at Perugia, and from
+other towns in the vale of Spoleto, came many counts, barons and
+knights, and other men of gentle birth, and much people, and cardinals
+and bishops and abbots with many other clerics, to see so holy and
+great a congregation and so humble, the like had never yet been in the
+world of so many saintly men assembled together: and principally they
+came to see the head and most holy father of all these holy
+men...."[113]
+
+  [Illustration: THE FONTE MARCELLA BY GALEAZZO ALESSI]
+
+
+THE PARDON OF ST. FRANCIS OR "IL PERDONO D'ASSISI."
+
+We cannot study the story of any Umbrian town without experiencing the
+feeling that it belongs to the past and was built in an age, which can
+only dimly be realised in the pages of old chronicles, by a people who
+were ever hurrying to battle, bent on glory and conquest for their
+cities. The character of the inhabitants has changed, and though the
+wonderful little cities they built upon the hills remain much as in
+mediæval times, they have a peaceful and quiet loveliness of their own
+which could not have existed in those days of fevered struggle and
+unrest. The word Assisi brings up, even to those who have seen the
+town but for a day, a host of sunlit memories; of way-side shrines
+with fading frescoes, whence Umbrian Madonnas smile down upon the
+worshippers; of ravines and forest trees; of vineyards where the
+peasants greeted you; of convent and Basilica glowing golden and
+crimson in the sudden changes from afternoon to sun-down, as they lie
+bathed in the last rays of light upon the hill above the darkness of
+the valley. All these things and many more pass through our minds, but
+the picture would be incomplete if we fail to recall two days in
+August when the undying power of St. Francis once more reaches across
+the centuries, arousing the people to a sudden return to mediæval
+times of expiation, prayer and strong belief in the power of a great
+saint's intercession.
+
+  [Illustration: AN ASSISAN GARDEN IN VIA GARIBALDI]
+
+The very mention of a feast savours in Italy of delightful things, of
+songs, of crowds of happy-looking people bent on the pleasures of a
+holiday as well as on praying for the good of their souls, and as a
+feast at Assisi sounded fairer than any other, we determined to become
+for the moment pilgrims and seek with them for the "Pardon of St.
+Francis." So as the days drew near to August we stood once more on the
+terrace of the Hotel Subasio, and as we felt the cool air of the early
+morning coming from the mountains, long days of interminable heat at
+Florence were forgotten, and Assisi, with her gardens full of
+sweet-scented summer flowers, her streets resounding only with the
+plash of the water of many fountains, seemed to us indeed to possess
+more beauty, variety and brilliancy of colour than we had realised
+before. Never had the nights been so still as in that late July, when
+the peasants had gathered in their harvest and were waiting for the
+time of vintage; only the shrill notes of the crickets answered each
+other occasionally along the valley, and the frogs croaked on the
+margin of the rills below the town. But soon this calmness ceased as
+the country roused itself for the annual spell of madness; there were
+voices in the vineyards during the night, bonfires in the plains, and
+a general tremor of excitement filled men and animals, setting the
+thin Assisan cocks crowing at unearthly hours in the morning. A night
+of sounds and wakefulness preceded a day when the people of all the
+cities and villages near appeared to have arrived in Assisi, not for
+the feast--for it was only the 29th of July--but for the fair. We
+followed them to the Piazza della Minerva, no longer the quiet place
+of former visits when only a few citizens sat sipping their cups of
+coffee, or talked together as they walked leisurely up and down.
+Temples, buildings and frescoes were forgotten as we watched the
+peasants gather round the booths to purchase articles of apparel and
+household wares, bargaining in shrill voices to the delight of
+purchaser, seller and onlooker. All the people of the country seemed
+to be here, and the Umbrian sellers had decked their stalls with a
+dazzling mass of coloured stuffs as attractive to us as to the
+Umbrian women. We bought large kerchiefs with red roses on a yellow
+ground to wear over our heads at the feast, and enormous hats with
+flapping brims, which the peasants, always interested in a neighbour's
+purchase, helped us to choose, saying, "take this one for no rain will
+come through it, and you need never use an umbrella." So a sun-bonnet
+was bought for rain and we went away convinced that no more delightful
+shopping could be done than during a fair day at Assisi, when a
+passing farmer and his family were ready to help us to choose the
+goods and to bargain, and moreover comforted us in the end by the
+assurance that in their opinion the money had been well spent. Later
+we strolled up to the Piazza Nuova, where an immense fair of oxen was
+being held, transforming another sleepy corner of the town into a
+busy, bustling thoroughfare. They were quiet beasts enough and we
+walked in among them stroking their soft noses as we watched the
+groups of excited peasants performing the various rites of selling and
+buying. When an ox was sold the broker joined the hands of vendor and
+purchaser by dint of much pulling, and then shook them up and down,
+shouting all the while, until our joints ached at the sight of this
+energetic signing of a treaty. The bargaining causes enormous
+amusement, the discussion on either side bringing a current of eager
+talk through the crowd; only the oxen were thoroughly weary of the
+whole affair as they gazed pensively at their owners. They were large
+milk-white creatures, the whole place was one white shimmering mass
+seen against the old walls of the town and the blocks of Roman
+masonry, calling up idle fancies of Clitumnus down in the valley just
+in sight, whose fields had given pasture to the oxen of the gods.
+
+The whole of that day Assisi was full of Umbrian men and women greatly
+concerned in buying and selling; but on the next the streets began to
+fill with people from distant parts of Italy, whose only thought was
+for St. Francis. At a very early hour of the 30th we were roused by
+the sound of many voices in the distance; going out on the terrace we
+saw a crowd of pilgrims coming across the plain, and others moving
+with slow steps up the hill. When near the Porta S. Francesco they
+knelt outside in the road and sang their hymn of praise before
+entering the Seraphic City. From dawn to evening a steady stream of
+pilgrims passed into the town, and the chanting, rising and falling
+like a fitful summer breeze, was the only sound to be heard throughout
+the day. Such different groups of people knelt together in the church,
+with nothing in common but the love for the franciscan saint whose
+name was for ever on their lips. They came from distant corners of
+Southern Italy generally in carts drawn by mules or oxen, for few
+could afford the luxury of coming by train. The Neapolitan women and
+those from the Abruzzi wore spotlessly white head-kerchiefs which fell
+round their shoulders like a nun's coif, a white blouse and generally
+a brilliant red or yellow skirt gathered thickly round the hips; the
+men were even more picturesque, with their waistcoats and
+knickerbockers of scarlet cloth, their white shirt sleeves showing,
+and their stockings bound round with leathern thongs. Some of the
+women from the Basilicata wore wonderful necklaces of old workmanship,
+and gold embroidered bands laid across their linen blouses, while long
+pins with huge knobs of beaten silver fastened their headgear of black
+and white cloth. There were two women from the mountains of the
+Basilicata who wore thick cloth turbans, and blue braid plaited in and
+out of their hair at one side, giving them a coquettish air; they
+suffered beneath the burden of their thick stuff dresses made with
+straight short jackets and skirts and big loose sleeves. Their felt
+boots were ill-fitted for Umbrian roads, and altogether they were
+attired for a winter climate and not for a burning August day in mid
+Italy. "Ah, it is cool among our mountains," they said with a sigh
+gazing wearily down at the plain which sent up hot vapours to mingle
+with the dust. Many of them had been three weeks on their journey and
+they look upon it as a great holiday, an event in their lives which
+cannot be often repeated for they are poor and depend for their
+livelihood upon the produce of their fields; but even the poorest
+brings enough to have a mass said at the Portiuncula and to drop some
+coppers on the altar steps. A few wandered through the Upper Church
+looking at Giotto's frescoes, but unable to read the story for
+themselves turned to us for an explanation when we happened to be
+there. They patted our faces, saying _carina_ by way of thanks, but
+realised little or nothing about the saint they had come so far to
+honour, only being certain that his intercession was all powerful.
+Several peasants sat in turn upon the beautiful Papal throne in the
+choir, both as a cure and as a preventive against possible ailments,
+and thinking there was some legend as to its miraculous qualities we
+asked them to tell us about it. They looked up surprised and very
+simply said, "It stands in the church of San Francesco," this was
+enough in their eyes to explain all miracles and wonders. A favourite
+occupation was kneeling by the entrance door of the Lower Church and
+listening for mysterious sounds which are said to come from the small
+column fixed in the ground. "What are you doing," we asked, cruelly
+disturbing the devotion of an old man in our desire for information.
+"I am listening to the voice of St. Francis," he answered, telling us
+that we might hear it too, but as he was in no hurry to cede his place
+to others we had no chance of verifying his strange assertion. The
+priests had a double function to perform, for while hearing
+confessions they held a long rod in their hands with which they tapped
+the heads of the peasants passing down the church; it was a blessing,
+which by the ignorant might be mistaken for some mysterious kind of
+fishing in invisible waters. At first the northern mind was surprised
+at the familiar way the pilgrims used the churches as their home, many
+being too poor to afford a lodging in the town. Especially at the
+Angeli we saw the strange uses side altars were put to; a family,
+having heard several masses and duly performed all their spiritual
+duties, would settle themselves comfortably on the broad steps of an
+altar, unfasten their bundles and proceed to breakfast off large
+hunches of bread and a mug of water; what remained of the water was
+employed in washing their feet. One man who had tramped for many days
+along dusty roads and wished to change his clothes, conceived the
+novel idea of retiring into a confessional box for the purpose. His
+wife handed him in the clean things and presently he drew aside the
+curtain, and emerged in spotless festive apparel with his travelling
+suit tied up in a large red handkerchief.
+
+  [Illustration: WOMEN FROM THE BASILICATA]
+
+Late in the evening of the 30th we happened to be at the Angeli when a
+new batch of pilgrims arrived, and for a long time we watched them
+reverently approach the Portiuncula on their knees, singing all the
+time the pilgrim's hymn with the ever-recurring refrain, "Evviva Maria
+e Chi la creò," which resounded through the church in long drawn nasal
+notes ending in a kind of stifled cry. There was something soothing in
+the plaintive, monotonous cadence as it reached us at the Garden of
+the Roses, where we had gone to breathe the cool air which blows
+across the open colonnade even on the hottest of summer days. We were
+listening to Father Bernardine's peaceful talk about St. Francis and
+the cicala which sang to him in the fig tree, and the lamb which
+followed the brethren to office, when suddenly we were startled by
+shrieks and screams in the church. "It is nothing, only the
+Neapolitans," said Father Bernardine, smiling at our distress. But
+unable longer to bear what sounded like the moanings of the wind which
+always fills one with uneasy feelings, half of fear, half of
+expectation that something unusual is going to happen, we hurried once
+again into the church. There a sight met our eyes which we shall never
+forget. Lying full length on the ground, their faces prone upon the
+pavement, were women crawling slowly, so slowly that the torture
+seemed interminable, from the entrance of the great church to the
+Portiuncula, and as they crawled they licked the floor with their
+tongues leaving behind them a mark like the trail of a slug. As we
+watched these poor penitents dragging themselves along, unconscious of
+aught around them and only overwhelmed by the consciousness that they
+must make atonement for past sins, a terrible sense of compassion,
+misery and disgust came over us. Who could restrain their tears,
+though they may have been tears of anger that people should be allowed
+to practise such ignoble acts of self-abasement. One girl especially
+called forth all our sympathy. She came running in out of the
+sunlight, and after standing for a moment at the entrance with her
+eager face uplifted towards the holy shrine, her eyes alight with the
+strange look of one bent upon some great resolve, she threw herself
+down full length upon the ground and commenced the terrible penance
+which she had come all the way from the Abruzzi mountains to
+perform.[114] She was very slight and her black skirt fell round her
+like a veil, showing the delicate outline of her figure against the
+marble pavement. Resting her naked feet against the knees of a man
+kneeling behind her, she pushed herself forward with the movement of a
+caterpillar. Another man tapped his pilgrim's staff sharply on the
+floor in front of her face to direct her towards the chapel, whilst
+her mother ever now and then bent down to smooth away the tangle of
+dark hair which fell round the girl like a shroud. Though prematurely
+aged by toil and suffering, the elder woman had a beautiful face,
+reminding one of a Mater Dolorosa as with bitter tears she assisted at
+her daughter's deep humiliation. Just as this sad little group neared
+the Portiuncula the girl stopped as though her strength were
+exhausted, when the mother, choked by sobs, lifted the heavy masses of
+her daughter's hair and tried to raise her from the ground. The
+pilgrims pressed round singing "Evviva Maria e Chi la creò" until the
+sound became deafening, while the men struck the ground almost angrily
+with their sticks, and at last the girl still licking the ground
+crawled forward once again. When she reached the altar of the
+Portiuncula she stretched out one hand and touched the iron gates, and
+then like a worm rearing itself in the air and turning from side to
+side, she dragged herself on to her knees. As consciousness returned
+and the Southern blood coursed again like fire through her veins, she
+started to her feet and with wild cries entreated San Francesco to
+hear her, beating the gates with her hands and swaying from side to
+side. The cry of a wounded animal might recall to one's memory the
+prayer of that young girl, storming heaven with notes of passionate
+entreaty wrung from a soul in great mental agony. Other penitents came
+up to take her place almost pushing her out of the chapel. We last saw
+her fast asleep on the steps of a side altar curled up like a tired
+dog, but on her face was an expression of great calm as though she had
+indeed found the peace sought in so repulsive and terrible a manner.
+Silently we left the church and turned towards Assisi, breathing with
+joy the pure air and looking long at the hills lying so calm and clear
+around us. Next day, the 31st of July, there was an excited feeling in
+the town, not among the Umbrians, for they take the annual feast of
+the "Perdono" quietly enough, but among the pilgrims, who having now
+arrived in hundreds and paid their first visit to the franciscan
+churches of the hill and of the plain, stood about in the lower piazza
+of San Francesco waiting with evident impatience for the opening of
+the feast of the afternoon. We caught their feeling of expectation and
+found it impossible to do aught else than watch the people from the
+balcony, and then we went down and wandered about among them. There
+were such tired groups of women under the _loggie_ of the piazza,
+leaning back in the shadow of the arches with their shawls drawn
+across their faces to shut out the glare of the August sun. A crowd of
+girls rested on the little patch of grass near the church, some
+eating their bread, others sleepily watching the constant passage of
+people in and out of the church; for long spaces they sat silent,
+listlessly waiting, then suddenly one among them would rise and sing a
+southern song, sounding so strange in Umbria. Her companions, casting
+off the desire to sleep, joined in the chorus until the song was ended
+and they once more became silent watchers. The shadows began to deepen
+round the church, the feeling of expectation increased, and the hours
+of waiting seemed long to the crowd and to us, when about four o'clock
+the dense mass of people in front of the church divided. A procession
+of priests in yellow copes filed out of the Basilica, one among them
+carrying the autograph benediction of St. Francis (see p. 210), and
+went to the little chapel near the Chiesa Nuova built over the stable
+where the saint is said to have been born. Here the holy relic is
+raised for the faithful to venerate, and the procession returns to San
+Francesco. It is a small but important ceremony, the prelude to the
+granting of the indulgence. We had reached the chapel before the
+procession, through side streets, but soon returned to the lower
+church for the crowd was intolerable, and we had been warned that once
+the blessing had been given a mad rush might be made to reach San
+Francesco and that sometimes people were trampled under foot. Out of
+the burning heat we entered the cool dark church where Umbrian
+peasants had already taken their places, as spectators, but not as
+actors in the feast. Seated on low benches against the wall they
+formed wondrous groups of colour, like clumps of cyclamen and
+primroses we have seen flowering in a wood upon an Italian roadside.
+The gates across the church had been shut, and were guarded by
+gendarmes; we had arrived too late. But presently Fra Luigi appeared
+at the gate of St. Martin's chapel, and hurriedly we followed him down
+the dark, narrow passage leading to the sacristy; we had only just
+time to run across the church and take our places outside the chapel
+of St. Mary Magdalen, when the great crowd surged into the church. The
+excitement became intense, and the pilgrims who had followed in the
+procession as docile as lambs now could restrain themselves no longer,
+and hustled the priests forward, pressing them against the iron gates
+in their efforts to approach the altar. There was a moment of tension
+as the whole of the iron screen bent beneath the weight of the crowd
+when the gendarmes half opened the gate to allow the priests to pass
+through. With the relic swaying above their heads, they slipped in
+from among the pilgrims, who, finding the gates once more barred
+against them, began to moan and shout with deafening fury. The organ
+pealed forth mad music, the incense rose in clouds around the altar,
+and eager faces peered through the gates, which were battered with
+angry fists as the people pushed against each other so that the whole
+crowd rocked from side to side. Through it all stood the quiet figure
+of the priest, raising the relic high above the heads of the people
+whose voices were for the moment hushed, as the words of benediction
+were pronounced. Rapidly crossing the church, followed by his
+attendants, he entered the sacristy and shut the door, while four
+gendarmes stationed themselves at the corners of the altar to prevent
+people from mounting the steps, and others went to unbar the gates.
+There was a great creaking of bolts and hinges and in a moment the
+pilgrims rushed forward, afraid of losing even a single moment of the
+precious hours of indulgence, and cries of "San Francesco" almost
+drowned the sound of hurrying footsteps. Families caught each other by
+the arms and swept wildly round the altar, often knocking people down
+in their wild career, old women gathered up their skirts and ran, the
+Abruzzesi in their scarlet jackets, whom we had seen so calmly walking
+down the streets, stepped eagerly forward with outstretched arms and
+clasped hands calling loudly on the saint. Round they went in a
+perpetual circle, first past the altar, then through the Maddalena
+chapel out into the Piazza, and back again without a single pause.
+Each time they entered the church they gained a new plenary
+indulgence. From the walls the frescoed saints leant towards us, and
+never had they seemed so full of peace and beauty, as on that day of
+hurry and strange excitement. We saw them through a mist of dust, but
+they were more real to us than the fanatics streaming past in mad
+career, and we greeted them as friends. Then as the sun went down in a
+crimson sky behind the Perugian hills, a great stillness fell upon the
+people, the gaining of indulgences for that day had ceased, and
+quietly those who had no shelters went into the country lanes to pass
+the night, or rested beneath a gateway of the town. Already Assisi was
+returning to her long spell of silence, for next morning at dawn the
+pilgrims would be on their road to Sta. Maria degli Angeli for the
+early morning mass.
+
+  [Illustration: SAN FRANCESCO AND THE LOWER PIAZZA]
+
+Rashly we left the quietness of the town to join the crowd again down
+in the plain late the next afternoon when the feast was nearly over.
+The press of people was felt more at the Angeli than at San Francesco,
+as they gained the indulgence by simply walking round the church and
+through the Portiuncula without going outside. It was useless to
+struggle, or to attempt to go the way we wanted, for we were simply
+carried off our feet and borne round the church in breathless haste in
+the temperature of a Turkish bath. There were moments of suspense when
+we doubted, as the crowd bore us swiftly forward, whether we should
+pass the confessional boxes without being crushed against the sharp
+corners. The cries of "Evviva Maria, Evviva San Francesco," became
+deafening as we neared the Portiuncula, and the people surged through
+the doors, throwing handfuls of coppers and silver coins upon the
+altar steps, and even at the picture of the Madonna above the altar in
+their extraordinary enthusiasm. How tired they looked, but in their
+eyes was a fixed look showing the feelings which spurred them on to
+gain as much grace as time would allow. They never paused, they never
+rested. With a last glance back upon the people and the names of Mary
+and Frances ringing in our ears we left the stifling atmosphere for
+the burning, but pure air outside.
+
+How peaceful it all seemed in comparison to the scene we had just
+witnessed. The Piazza was full of booths as on a market day, with rows
+of coloured handkerchiefs, sea-green dresses such as the peasants
+like, and endless toys and religious objects; old women sat under
+large green umbrellas selling cakes, and cooks, in white aprons and
+caps, stood by their pots and pans ready to serve you an excellent
+meal. From under a tree a man sprang up as we passed with something of
+the pilgrim's eagerness about him, saying, "See, I will sing you a
+song and dance for you," shaking his companions from their sleep and
+snatching up his accordion, he began a wild, warlike dance upon the
+grass, while the others accompanied him with an endless chant. And so
+the hours crept on, until once again as the sun went down the pilgrims
+streamed quietly out of the church, but this time they gathered up
+their bundles and walked to the ox waggons which were standing ready
+in the road, and quite silently without delay they seated themselves,
+fifteen or twenty in a cart, to start upon their long journey home.
+
+Never had the town been so deadly still as on the 2nd of August, when
+the inhabitants had gone down the hill to the church of the Angeli
+where they sought to obtain their indulgences now the pilgrims had
+departed. Very quietly they knelt on the marble floor during the High
+Mass, silently they prayed, and with slow reverent steps they passed
+in and out of the Portiuncula until the Vesper hour, and the
+beautiful, calm evening then found them gathered round the altar of
+their saint. "Pray, ye poor people, chant and pray. If all be but a
+dream to wake from this were loss for you indeed."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[112] St. Francis called the Portiuncula Santa Maria degli Angeli, but
+now the name is more connected with the large church. See p. 97.
+
+[113] St. Dominic was present at this famous gathering, and the
+_Fioretti_ gives a curious account of the way in which he watched the
+doings of a brother saint, at first a little inclined to criticise his
+methods, so different to his own, but finally being won over by the
+franciscan doctrine of absolute poverty.
+
+[114] Those who know the teaching of St. Francis (see _Fioretti_,
+chap. xiii.) will feel how the saint would have fought against this
+device for the expiation of sins, invented by the priests of Southern
+Italy. No Umbrian has ever sunk to such depths of self-abasement, and
+during all the first days of the "Perdono" festival they keep aloof,
+waiting till the pilgrims' departure before obtaining their
+indulgences.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+To visitors who stay at Assisi for more than the usual hurried day,
+the following notes of walks and excursions may be of some use. A few
+of them have been already indicated by M. Paul Sabatier, in a paper
+printed at Assisi, to explain the sixteenth century map of the town
+found by him in the Palazzo Pubblico, of which a copy hangs in a room
+in the Hotel Subasio.
+
+_In the Town._--The public garden on the slope of the hill above the
+Via Metastasio is a delightful place. It was the ilex wood of the
+Cappucine convent until the present garden was laid out in 1882 by
+Sig. Alfonso Brizzi, when the friars' convent became a home for the
+aged poor.
+
+_From Porta S. Giacomo._--(_a_) A new idea of Assisi is obtained by
+following the mountain track from the Campo Santo round by the
+quarries and below the Castle to Porta Perlici. Looking across the
+ravine of the Tescio and up the valley of Gualdo and Nocera is a
+vision of Umbrian country in its austerest mood. Even if the whole of
+this walk cannot be taken we recommend all to follow the broad smooth
+road leading to the Campo Santo for a little, as the view of San
+Francesco and the valley beyond is very beautiful. (_b_) By taking the
+Via di Fontanella (see map), straight down the hillside, the
+picturesque bridge of S. Croce is reached in about twenty minutes. M.
+Sabatier recommends the ascent of Col Caprile just opposite for the
+fine view of Assisi, but those who do not care for an hour's climb
+would do well, having seen the old bridge and its charming
+surroundings, to retrace their steps, and after about two minutes turn
+off to the right through the fields along a narrow footpath leading to
+a bridge over the Tescio and a farmhouse. Following the right bank of
+the torrent we reach the Ponte S. Vittorino (see map), and return to
+the town by the old road skirting the walls of the franciscan convent
+and emerging opposite the Porta S. Francesco. Want of space prevents
+more being said than to urge all visitors to go this walk, which is
+little known and will be found one of the loveliest they have ever
+seen. Every step brings something new; banks of orchis and cyclamen,
+glimpses of crimson and yellow rock in the brushwood by the hillside,
+the soft blue distance of the valley beyond, and above all,
+innumerable views of San Francesco, seen now with a bridge in the
+foreground, now framed in by the curved and spreading branches of an
+oak, and at every turn carrying our thoughts away to valleys of
+Southern France and fortress-churches crowning the wooded hills (see
+illustrations, pp. 215, 220). To realise the variety of scenery to be
+found in Umbria we must come to Assisi and hunt out her hidden lanes
+and byways.
+
+_From Porta Perlici._--(_a_) Out of this gate, turning to the left by
+the city walls, is one of the roads leading to the Castle; the others
+are clearly marked on the map. (_b_) The carriage road to Gualdo and
+Nocera goes for some miles along the valley, but is not completed.
+
+_From Porta Cappucini._--(_a_) The Rocca Minore is reached by a grass
+path going up the hill just inside the walls. A fine view of the
+eastern slope of Assisi is obtained (see illustration, p. 10). (_b_)
+The Carceri is about an hour's walk from this gate, donkeys are to be
+had in the town for the excursion, or a small carriage drawn by a
+horse and a pair of oxen can get there, but it is the least pleasant
+way of going.
+
+_From Porta Nuova._--(_a_) A pleasant though not the shortest way back
+to the town, is the one which skirts round the hill inside the
+mediæval walls from this gate to Porta Mojano, and then outside the
+walls through the fields past the Portaccia to the carriage road just
+below Porta S. Pietro. (_b_) The ascent of Monte Subasio occupies
+about two hours and a half, though quick walkers will do it in less
+time. There are several paths which anyone will indicate to the
+traveller. The easiest, though the longest (about four hours), is the
+one mentioned by M. Sabatier, the road to Gabbiano and Satriano, which
+branches off to the left from the Foligno road not far from the Porta
+Nuova. After walking along the Gabbiano road for an hour, a lane leads
+up the hill for another hour to the ruined abbey of San Benedetto (p.
+82). The path skirts the mountain to Sasso Rosso, three quarters of an
+hour, the site of the fortress of the family of St. Clare, and then
+one hour and a half brings us to the southern slope of Mount Subasio
+called the Civitelle, where the craters of the extinct volcano are to
+be seen. The highest point (1290 metres), is reached in another half
+hour. The view is very fine; Nocera and Gualdo lie to the north, Monte
+Amiata to the west, a range of snowy mountains to the south, Mount
+Terminillo, the Sabine Appenines and the mountains of the Abruzzi, and
+Mount Sibella to the east. The return to Assisi, without passing the
+Carceri, takes two hours. (_c_) The road to San Damiano is marked on
+the map; it is good but very steep, requiring oxen to draw the
+carriage up the hill on the return. On foot it is only a quarter of an
+hour from the gate. (_d_) A long day's drive will take the traveller
+to Spello, Foligno and Montefalco, but it is a tiring excursion and
+only a faint idea can be obtained of these beautiful Umbrian towns. It
+is better, if possible, to give a day to each, and to see Bevagna,
+with her two exquisite romanesque buildings, on the way to Montefalco.
+
+_From Porta Mojano._--(_a_) To follow the path taken by St. Francis,
+when carried from the bishop's palace to the Portiuncula (p. 111),
+just before his death, we must take the road leading from the gateway
+to a small chapel, and turn to the right down a lane marked Valecchio
+on the map. St. Francis either passed through Porta Mojano or the
+Portaccia (now closed), but from here we follow in his footsteps
+straight down the hill to the hamlet of Valecchio, set so charmingly
+on a grass plot among the walnut trees, with part of its watch tower
+still standing (p. 104). In the plain we come to cross roads; the one
+on the left leads to San Damiano in about forty minutes, that to the
+right to the leper hospital (now known as S. Agostino), whence St.
+Francis blessed Assisi for the last time (p. 111). (_b_) From the gate
+a few minutes brings us to a path crossing the fields to the left, to
+the old church of S. Masseo built in 1081 by Lupone Count of Assisi to
+serve as a chapel to the monastery, now the dwelling place of peasant
+families. (_c_) From Porta Mojano a lane leads straight down to the
+plain, and just before reaching the high road where it crosses the
+railway at right angles, the chapel of S. Rufino d'Arce--the real
+Rivo-Torto--is seen in the fields to the left (see pp. 93-95). By the
+side of the lane close to the railway line is the chapel of Sta. Maria
+Maddalena (see pp. 93-95). This is about half an hour's walk.
+
+_From Porta S. Francesco._--There are several drives. (_a_) Perugia.
+(_b_) Bastia, the first station on the railway between Assisi and
+Perugia, possessing a triptych by Niccolò da Foligno. A beautiful view
+of the river Chiaggio is obtained at the bridge of Bastiola. (_c_) A
+road from the Angeli branches off to Torre d'Andrea, where there is a
+picture by a scholar of Pinturicchio. But more delightful is the
+chapel of S. Simone a little further on, built right in the midst of
+the cornfields, whose walls are covered with frescoes of the fifteenth
+and sixteenth centuries. (_d_) A beautiful drive is to the Rocca di
+Petrignano, a hill-set village above the Chiaggio. To fully recount
+its story, the picturesqueness of its rock-cut streets and the charm
+of the chapel upon the heights, whose walls are covered from floor to
+roof with votive Madonnas and saints, would need a chapter to itself.
+It has been enthusiastically described by M. Broussolle in his
+_Pélerinages Ombriens_, but it may be well to remark that he calls the
+Rocca di Petrignano, for some unknown reason, the Rocca d'Assisi.
+(_e_) It is an hour and a half's walk to the church of S. Fortunato,
+across the bridge of S. Vittorino, recommended by M. Sabatier in his
+list of excursions. The way side chapel of S. Bartolo, with its
+interesting apse is passed on the way.
+
+It would be well to get the Italian military map, Fo. 123 (either at
+Seeber, Via Tornabuoni, Florence, or at D. Terese, Perugia), if the
+pilgrim to Assisi wishes to explore the country round Assisi.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+    A
+
+  AGNES, Blessed, persecution of, 263; enters convent of San
+  Damiano, 264; assists at death-bed of St. Clare, 271.
+
+  AGOSTINO DA SIENA, tomb by, 189.
+
+  ALBI, Cathedral of, 129.
+
+  ALBORNOZ, Cardinal, takes Assisi, 23; rebuilds castle, 24, 326;
+  builds chapel in San Francesco, 24, 193; builds portion of
+  colonnade of convent, 221; 327.
+
+  ALESSI, Galeazzo, _note [80]_ 193; remodels San Rufino, 296;
+  designs cupola of the Angeli, 335.
+
+  ALEXANDER IV, Pope, 207; canonizes St. Clare, 280.
+
+  ---- VI, Pope, 330; 331.
+
+  ALUNNO, _see_ Niccolò da Foligno.
+
+  ANGELO, Brother, 72; 271.
+
+  ANGELI, Padre, book by, _note [57]_ 106, 152.
+
+  ANTHONY, St., of Padua, at Assisi, 140; 166; 192; 250.
+
+  ANSANO, St., 304; 320.
+
+  AREZZO, 20; 239.
+
+  ARLES, Apparition of St. Francis at, 250.
+
+  ARNO, 72; 250.
+
+  ARNOLD, Matthew, quoted, 55.
+
+  ASSISI, passim.
+
+  AVIGNON, Popes at, 21; _note [89]_ 209.
+
+
+    B
+
+  _Baglioni_, The, besiege and take Assisi, 33, 34, 210; feud with
+  the Fiumi, 33; _note [101]_ 259; downfall of, 36.
+
+  ---- Gian Paolo, 34, 334.
+
+  ---- Malatesta, 331.
+
+  _Bagnora_, St. Bonaventure born at, _note [95]_ 229.
+
+  _Basileo_, Bishop, builds first church of San Rufino, 292.
+
+  _Bastia_, Benedictine convent at, 105, 262, 263.
+
+  _Benedict_, St., repairs the Portiuncula, 99, 100.
+
+  BENEDICTINES, Abbey of, on Mount Subasio, 82, 83; gifts of, to St.
+  Francis, 84, 103, 264.
+
+  BERENSON, Bernhard, 171; quoted, 198, 199, 207, 208; 251; 257.
+
+  BERNARD of Quintavalle, 48; 94; 114; 182; 273; house of, 308.
+
+  BERNARDINE, St., of Siena, 206; 221; 340.
+
+  BERNARDONE, Pietro, family of, _note [22]_ 41; quarrels with St.
+  Francis, 47, 235, 278, 309; house of, 307; shop of, 308.
+
+  BEVAGNA, Roman battles near., 5; St. Francis preaches to the birds
+  at, 62, 244.
+
+  BLASCO, Ferdinando, tomb of, 194.
+
+  ---- Garzia, tomb of, 194.
+
+  BOLOGNA, St. Francis preaches at, 56.
+
+  BONAVENTURE, St., quoted, 69, 229-256; _note [76]_ 181; 206; 210;
+  273; 274; 338.
+
+  BONIFACE VIII, Pope, seeks counsel of Guido of Montefeltro, 223.
+
+  BORGIA, Lucrezia, 330.
+
+  BRIENNE, Gauthier de, 45; 232.
+
+  BROGLIA di TRINO, 25; 83; 328.
+
+  BRIZI, Alfonso, _note [109]_ 322; _note [111]_ 329.
+
+  ----, Giuseppe, 197.
+
+  BURCKHARDT, J., 164.
+
+
+    C
+
+  CAMPELLO, Fra Filippo, aids in building San Francesco, 129; builds
+  Santa Chiara, 281.
+
+  CARCERI, Hermitage of the, 27; 81; given to St. Francis by the
+  Benedictines, 84; road to, 84, 85; story of, 86-93.
+
+  CARMICHAEL, W. Montgomery, 211.
+
+  CASTLE, The, of Assisi (ROCCA D'ASSISI), building of, 11, 326;
+  Frederick II, stays at, 13, 326; destruction of, 14, 326; rebuilt
+  by Albornoz, 24, 326; story of, 325-334.
+
+  CELANO, quoted, 42, 43, 44; _note [41]_ 69; his description of St.
+  Francis, 212; 229.
+
+  ---- Knight of, 246.
+
+  CHARLEMAGNE, Emperor, besieges Assisi, 11; rebuilds Assisi, 11,
+  326.
+
+  CHIAGGIO, River, 103; _note [101]_ 259; St. Rufino martyred in
+  the, 291.
+
+  CIMABUE, Giovanni, 153; legends about, 154; Madonna by, in San
+  Francesco (Lower Church), 155; frescoes in San Francesco (Upper
+  Church), 156-160; Giotto adopted by, 169; Giotto completes works
+  of, at Assisi, 170; 228; 284.
+
+  CHURCH OF SANTA CHIARA, sacked by Niccolò Piccinino, 28, 29;
+  building of, 281, 282; frescoes in, 283; portrait of St. Clare in,
+  284; church of San Giorgio in, 285, 286; tomb of St. Clare found
+  in, 287; body of St. Clare in, 288.
+
+  ---- SAN DAMIANO, Niccolò Piccinino stays at, 26; body of St.
+  Francis brought to, 119, 253, 267; St. Clare and her nuns live at,
+  264, _et seq._; attacked by army of Frederick II, 267, 268;
+  Innocent IV, at, 274, 278; relics at, 274, 275; crucifix of, 276,
+  277; choir of St. Clare at, 277; bought by the Marquess of Ripon,
+  278; frescoes in, 278, 279; funeral service of St. Clare held at,
+  279, 280; miraculous crucifix of, 274, 285.
+
+  ---- SAN FRANCESCO, building of, 123, _et seq._; architect of,
+  124, 125; convent of, 124; 133; 139; 221; 223; 227; resemblance to
+  cathedral of Albi, 129; St. Francis buried in, 133, 135; legend
+  about, 136; 144; 146; in the first years, 215, 216; campanile of,
+  216; _note [92]_ 219; bells of, 219; feast of the "Perdono" in,
+  351, 352, 357-359.
+
+  ---- ---- LOWER CHURCH, The, 149, 150; pre-Giottesque frescoes in,
+  151, 152, 153; Madonna by Cimabue in, 155; Giotto's frescoes of
+  the early life of Christ in, 171, _et seq._; Giotto's frescoes of
+  the miracles of St. Francis in, 174; Giotto's allegories in 177,
+  _et seq._; Chapel del Sacramento or of St. Nicholas in,185, _et
+  seq._; stained glass windows in, 189; 192; 193; 205; 206; 209;
+  frescoes by Giotto in chapel of St. Maria Maddalena in, 190, _et
+  seq._; chapel of St. Antonio da Padova in, 192; chapel of San
+  Stefano in, 192; chapel of St. Catherine or del Crocifisso in,
+  193; chapel of St. Antonio in, 193; cemetery of, 195; tomb of
+  Ecuba in, 195; tomb of St. Francis in, 196, 197; chapel of St.
+  Martin in, 198; legend of St. Martin, frescoes by Simone Martini
+  in, 199, _et seq._; frescoes by Simone Martini in, 212, 215;
+  frescoes above the papal throne in, 206, 207; frescoes by Pietro
+  Lorenzetti in, 207, 208; chapel of St. Giovanno Battista in, 208;
+  sacristies in, 209, _et seq._; portrait of St Francis in, 211;
+  porch of, 220.
+
+  ---- ---- UPPER CHURCH, The, _note [69]_ 152; 156; frescoes by
+  Cimabue in, 158-160; frescoes by contemporaries of Cimabue in,
+  160, _et seq._; stained glass windows in, 164, _et seq._; papal
+  throne, pulpit and altar in, 166, 167; door of, 219; Giotto's
+  frescoes of the legend of St. Francis in, 229-250; frescoes by a
+  follower of Giotto in, 254-256; intarsia stalls in, 256.
+
+  ---- SAN GIORGIO, St. Francis canonized in, 121; 273; body of St.
+  Clare brought to, 279, 280; church of Santa Chiara built over,
+  281; frescoes in, 285.
+
+  ---- SANTA MARIA degli ANGELI, building of, 335; rebuilt after
+  earthquake, 336; works of Andrea della Robbia in, 336, 338; works
+  of Giunta Pisano in, 337, 338; the Portiuncula in, 337 (_see_
+  Portiuncula); fresco by Perugino in, 337; garden and chapel of the
+  Roses in, 339, 340; frescoes by Lo Spagna in, 338, 341; frescoes
+  by Tiberio d'Assisi at, 341; feast of the "Perdono" at, 353-355,
+  359-361.
+
+  ---- SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE, franciscan legend connected with, 235,
+  308, 309, 310.
+
+  ---- CHIESA NUOVA, 307; 308.
+
+  ---- SAN PAOLO, 303; fresco by Matteo da Gualdo in, 304.
+
+  CHURCH OF SAN PIETRO, 312; triptych by Matteo da Gualdo in, 313;
+  fresco in, 313.
+
+  ---- PELLEGRINI, _see_ Confraternity.
+
+  ---- SAN RUFINO (Cathedral), Frederick II, baptised in, 13; 289;
+  church beneath, 292; building of, 294; bell-tower of, 290, 294,
+  301; doors of, 294, 295; interior of, 296; triptych by Niccolò da
+  Foligno in, 296, 297; connection with St. Francis, 238, 299.
+
+  CLARE, St., parentage of, 258; description of, 259; founds order
+  of Poor Clares, 104, 262; delivers her sister Agnes from her
+  persecutors, 263; goes to live at San Damiano, 264; friendship
+  with St. Francis, 62, 77, 265; last farewell to St. Francis, 119,
+  267; saves her convent and Assisi from the Saracens, 267, 268; her
+  struggle with the Papacy, 270, 271; death of, 272; miracle of the
+  bread by, 274, 275; canonization and funeral of, 280; church of,
+  281; early picture of, 284; body of, 288.
+
+  CLEMENT VII, Pope, 331.
+
+  CLITUMNUS, river, 5; Propertius lived near, 8; 350.
+
+  COMACINE builders, Guild of, 321; house of, in Assisi, 322.
+
+  CONFRATERNITY of SAN CRISPINO, 316.
+
+  ---- SAN FRANCESCUCCIO, 315; frescoes at, 316.
+
+  ---- SAN LORENZO, fresco at, 323.
+
+  ---- DEI PELLEGRINI, 316; frescoes by Matteo da Gualdo in, 317,
+  318; frescoes by Mezzastris in, 318-320; fresco by Fiorenzo di
+  Lorenzo in, 320.
+
+  ---- SAN RUFINUCCIO, frescoes in, 185, 323.
+
+  CONRAD of SUABIA, 13; 326.
+
+  CONVENT of SANTA CHIARA, 281; 282.
+
+  ---- of SAN FRANCESCO, 124; 133; 139; 221; Guido of Montefeltro
+  lives in, 223; 227.
+
+  CORROYER, E., quoted, 129.
+
+  CORTONA, 117; 144.
+
+  CORYTHUS, King of Cortona, 2.
+
+  COSTANO, 291; 297.
+
+  CHRISTINE, Queen of Sweden, 222.
+
+  CROWE & CAVALCASELLE, Messrs, quoted, 162, 174, 176, 187; 171;
+  251.
+
+
+    D
+
+  DAMIANO, San, _see_ Church.
+
+  DANTE, quoted, 14, 71, 168, 182, 184, 186, 224, 236, 250; portrait
+  of, by Giotto, 176, 182.
+
+  DANTI, GIULIO, _note [80]_ 193; designs cupola of the Angeli, 335.
+
+  DARDANUS, 2; 3; 4.
+
+  DOMENICO da SAN SEVERINO, designs stalls for San Francesco, 256.
+
+  DOMINIC, St., 17; _note [95]_ 229; _note [113]_ 345.
+
+  DONI ADONE, 192; 307.
+
+
+    E
+
+  ECUBA, Queen of Cyprus, tomb of, 195.
+
+  EGIDIO, Brother, 48; 50; 94; 111; quoted, 117; _note [59]_ 118;
+  132.
+
+  ELIAS, Brother, 51; influence of, on the franciscan order, 122,
+  130, 132; superintends building of San Francesco, 124, _et seq._;
+  character of, 137; hides body of St. Francis, 135; _note [81]_
+  196; account of, 137-146; _note [69]_ 152; 306.
+
+  ELISEI, Canon, 292.
+
+  ETRUSCANS, The, found Perugia, 4; 5.
+
+  EUSEBIO di SAN GIORGIO, fresco by, 278.
+
+
+    F
+
+  FIORENZO di LORENZO, 165; frescoes by, in Assisi, 306, 307, 320.
+
+  FIORETTI, The, quoted, 49, 50, 59, 68, 88, 111, 137, 138, 266,
+  345; charm of, 66.
+
+  FIUMI, Jacopo, murders the Nepis, 32; 33; robs sacristy of San
+  Francesco, 210; despot of Assisi, 331.
+
+  FIUMI, The, their rivalry with the Nepis, 31, 32; mother of St.
+  Clare belongs to family of, 259.
+
+  FLAGELLANTS, The, _note [35]_ 60; 178; 314.
+
+  FORTEBRACCIO, Braccio, 25.
+
+  FRANCIS, St., birth of, 15; teaching of, 16, 18; childhood of, 41;
+  description of, by Celano, 42, 212; imprisoned at Perugia, 43;
+  conversion of, 44; dream of, at Spoleto, 45, 232; his symbol of
+  the Lady Poverty, 46, 53; succours the lepers, 46, 95; first
+  foundation of the Order, 48, 49; interview of, with Innocent III,
+  52, 53; rule sanctioned by Innocent III, 54, 237; eloquent
+  preaching of, 55, 56, 57, 59; gives St. Clare the veil, 56, 105,
+  262; founds Third Order, 60; preaches before the Sultan of Egypt,
+  61, 240; sermon of, to the birds at Bevagna, 62, 244; love of
+  nature, 63, 64, 65; converts the wolf of Gubbio, 65; friendship
+  with Gregory IX (Bishop Ugolino), 69; preaches before Honorius
+  III, 71, 249; stays at La Vernia, 71, 72; receives the Stigmata at
+  La Vernia, 73, 74; farewell to La Vernia, 75; blindness of, 76,
+  116; composes the Canticle to the Sun, 78; elects the Carceri as
+  his hermitage, 81-83; cell of, at the Carceri, 86; challenges the
+  nightingale to sing the praises of God at the Carceri, 87; dries
+  up the torrent, 88; causes a miraculous fountain to appear at the
+  Carceri, 91; prophecy of, to Otto IV, 96; goes to the Portiuncula
+  with his brethren, 97; visits the Portiuncula as a child, 102;
+  obtains the Portiuncula as a gift, 103, 104; hut of, _note [57]_
+  106, 340; blesses Assisi, 113; dictates his will, 114; death of,
+  115, 116; funeral of, 119, 120; canonisation of, 121, 153; church
+  built in honour of, 123, _et seq._; secret burial of, 134-136;
+  influence of, on Elias, 138, 139; miracles of, 176, 239, 243, 254,
+  255, 256; fresco of marriage with the Lady Poverty, 181; tomb of,
+  196, 197; autograph of, 210, 211; portrait of, by Giunta Pisano,
+  211; legends of, illustrated by Giotto and a follower, 229-256;
+  obtains San Damiano as a gift, 264; friendship of, with St Clare,
+  265, 266; statue of, by Andrea della Robbia, 338; garden of, 339,
+  340; roses flower in the snow for, 340; obtains the indulgence of
+  the Portiuncula, 342, 343; proclaims the indulgence, 344.
+
+  FREDERICK I., Emperor, at Assisi, 13.
+
+  ---- II, Emperor, at Assisi, 13; 61; befriends Elias, 142; 143;
+  144; 217; army of, besieges Assisi, 267-269; 326.
+
+  FRY, Roger, quoted, 156, 228, 243.
+
+  FOLIGNO, 222; 278.
+
+  ---- Niccolò da, _see_ Niccolò.
+
+
+    G
+
+  GENTILE de MONTEFLORI, Cardinal, founds chapel in San Francesco,
+  192, _note [82]_ 198; 205.
+
+  GIACOMA da SETTESOLI, friendship of, with St. Francis, 114; tomb
+  of, 207.
+
+  GIOTTINO, _note [78]_ 186; 283.
+
+  GIOTTO, birth of, 108; adopted by Cimabue, 169; character of, 170,
+  178; first early frescoes of, at Assisi, 171-177; poem of, on
+  poverty, 178; Allegories by, 181-184; frescoes by, in chapel of
+  Sta. Maria Maddalena, 188; genius of, 228; illustrates legend of
+  St. Francis, 229-250; characteristics of, 229, 232, 255;
+  architecture of, 231; contemporary opinion on, 244; follower of,
+  at Assisi, 185, 251.
+
+  GIOVANNI da GUBBIO, builds San Rufino, 294; 309.
+
+  GIUNTA PISANO, crucifix by, _note [69]_ 152; portraits by, of St.
+  Francis, 211, 284; 337; 338.
+
+  GOETHE, Wolfgang von, description of the Temple of Minerva, 302,
+  303.
+
+  GOZZOLI, Benozzo, 245.
+
+  GREGORY IX., Pope, friendship with St. Francis, 69; dream of, 121,
+  254; canonises St. Francis, 121, 253; founds San Francesco, 123,
+  _note [69]_ 152; portrait of, 159; 219; wishes to give St. Clare
+  the Benedictine rule, 270.
+
+  GUALDO, 12; 118; 329.
+
+  ---- Matteo da, _see_ Matteo.
+
+  GUALTIERI, Duke of Athens, portrait of, 208.
+
+  GUELFUCCI, Bianca, 261; aids St. Clare in her flight, 262; enters
+  convent of San Damiano, 264.
+
+  GUBBIO, wolf of, 65, 221; 291; 329.
+
+  GUIDANTONIO da MONTEFELTRO, owns Assisi, 25, 317.
+
+  GUIDO da MONTEFELTRO, a monk in San Francesco, 223; treacherous
+  counsel of, to Boniface VIII, 224.
+
+  GRECCIO, feast of, 242.
+
+
+    H
+
+  HONORIUS III., Pope, St. Francis preaches before, 70, 249; rule of
+  St. Francis sanctioned by, 114, 210; grants St. Francis the
+  indulgence of the Portiuncula, 342.
+
+
+    I
+
+  IBALD, Rev. Father Bernardine, _note [56]_ 103.
+
+  ILLUMINATUS, Brother, 141; 240.
+
+  INGEGNO, L', 306; fresco by, 307.
+
+  INNOCENT III., Pope, 13; power of, 14; court of, 15; 45; meeting
+  of, with St. Francis, 52, 53; dream of, 53, 236; confirms rule of
+  St. Francis, 54, 70; 237; 342.
+
+  ---- IV., Pope, sanctions rule of St. Clare, 271; at funeral of
+  St. Clare, 279, 280.
+
+
+    J
+
+  JACOPO TEDESCO, architect of San Francesco, 124; 125; 129; 156;
+  216.
+
+  JASIUS, 2; 3.
+
+  JUNIPER, Brother, 111; 112; 271.
+
+
+    L
+
+  LEO X., Pope, mitigates franciscan rule, 224.
+
+  ---- XIII., Pope, 287.
+
+  ---- Brother, 51; 72; quoted, 103, 104, 114, 131, 310; quarrel
+  with Elias, 132; receives autograph benediction from St. Francis,
+  210.
+
+  LIBERIUS, Pope, 98.
+
+  LORENZETTI, Pietro, frescoes by, in San Francesco, 207, 208.
+
+  LOUIS, St., of France, _note [30]_ 51; 210.
+
+
+    M
+
+  MARGARITONE, 158; 284.
+
+  MARTIN, St., chapel and legend of, in San Francesco, 198, _et
+  seq._
+
+  MARTINI, Simone, 198; friendship with Petrarch, 199;
+  characteristics of, 199; legend by, of St. Martin, 200, _et seq._;
+  other frescoes by, 212, 215.
+
+  MARY MAGDALEN, St., legend and chapel of, 190, 191.
+
+  MARZARIO, Professor, _note [62]_ 125.
+
+  MASSEO, Brother, 59; 72; letter of, 74; 111.
+
+  MATARAZZO, _note [12]_ 31; quoted, 33, 35; _note [101]_ 259.
+
+  MATTEO da GUALDO, frescoes by, in Assisi, 304, 306, 311, 313, 317,
+  318.
+
+  METASTASIO, house of, at Assisi, 322.
+
+  MICHELOTTI, Biordo, 25; 329.
+
+  MILTON, John, 14; 241.
+
+  MINERVA, The Temple of, its legend, 3; 301; description of, by
+  Goethe, 302, 303.
+
+  MONTEFELTRO, _see_ Guido.
+
+  MONTEFALCO, 221; 245.
+
+  MONTE FRUMENTARIO, 321.
+
+
+    N
+
+  NARNI, 13; 221.
+
+  NEPIS, the family of, rivalry with the Fiumi, 31, 32, 330, 331.
+
+  NICCOLÒ da FOLIGNO, triptych by, in San Rufino, 296, 297; 341.
+
+  ---- da GUBBIO, carves doors for San Francesco, 220.
+
+  NICHOLAS, St., chapel and legend of, 185, _et seq._
+
+  NOCERA, 12; 118; 329.
+
+
+    O
+
+  ORSINI, Giovanni Gaetano, portrait of, 185; tomb of, 189.
+
+  ---- Napoleone, 185.
+
+  ---- The family of, _note [87]_ 208.
+
+  ORTOLANA, Madonna, 259; 264.
+
+  OTTO IV., Emperor, at Rivo-Torto, 96.
+
+  OXFORD, 110.
+
+
+    P
+
+  PACIFICO, Brother, vision of, 239.
+
+  PALAZZO PUBBLICO, 32; 305; frescoes in, 306.
+
+  ---- SBARAGLINI, 308.
+
+  ---- SCIFI, 258; 260; 262; 281.
+
+  PARENTI, Giovanni, 132; 133; 139; 140.
+
+  PAUL III, Pope, 36; 331; 332.
+
+  PERUGIA, 4; 9; wars with Assisi, 5, 19, 20, 21, 43; governs
+  Assisi, 22, 23; 29; 36; tries to steal body of St. Francis, 21;
+  _note [81]_ 196; St. Francis mocked in, 57; 221; 342.
+
+  PERUGINO, Pietro, fresco by, 337.
+
+  PIAZZA, di Sta. Maria Maggiore, encounter of St. Francis with his
+  father in, 235, 309; 310.
+
+  ---- di San Francesco, 220.
+
+  ---- della Minerva, 13; 31; 302; 330; 348.
+
+  ---- Nuova, 300; 349.
+
+  ---- di San Rufino, 289.
+
+  PICA, Madonna, 41; 102; 119; 307.
+
+  PICCININO, Niccolò, besieges Assisi, 25, 26; 27; 30; 126.
+
+  ---- Jacopo, 329.
+
+  PIETRO _Cataneo_, Brother, 48; 138; 342.
+
+  PINTELLI, Baccio, 220.
+
+  PINTURICCHIO, 337.
+
+  PIUS II, Pope, 329.
+
+  ---- V, Pope, 335.
+
+  PORTIUNCULA, The, early connection with St. Francis, 47, 102;
+  repaired by St. Benedict, 99; given to St. Francis, 103; cradle of
+  franciscan order, 104; St. Clare comes to, 104, 273; St. Francis
+  dies at, 114, 115, 337; 338; indulgence of, 344; chapter of the
+  lattices at, 345; 353; 355; 359.
+
+  PUZZARELLI, Simone, 123.
+
+  PONTANO, Teobaldo, 191.
+
+  PROPERTIUS, born at Assisi, 6; describes Assisi, 7, 8.
+
+
+    R
+
+  RENAN, E., quoted, 149.
+
+  RENI, Guido, 339.
+
+  RIVO-TORTO, 93; leper hospitals at, 95; description of, 96 vision
+  of friars at, 238, 299.
+
+  ROBBIA, Andrea della, his work in the Angeli, 336-338.
+
+  ROCCA D'ASSISI, _see_ Castle.
+
+  RUFINO D'ARCE, San, 94; St. Francis ministers to lepers at, 95.
+
+  RUFINO, Brother, 68; _note [102]_ 260.
+
+  ---- St., legend of, 291, 292, 293, 297; 299.
+
+  RUMOHR, von, B., 251.
+
+  RUSKIN, John, quoted, 155, 170, 232; 236.
+
+
+    S
+
+  SABATIER, Paul, quoted, _note [26]_ 44, 63, 238, 258, 266, 271,
+  274; _note [67]_ 138.
+
+  SANSONE, Francesco, 219; 256.
+
+  SCIFI, Chiara, _see_ St. Clare.
+
+  ---- Count Favorino, 258; 259; 261; 263; 264.
+
+  SCOTT, Leader, _note [62]_ 125.
+
+  SEVERINO, _see_ Domenico.
+
+  SFORZA, Alessandro, 27; 28.
+
+  ---- Francesco, Duke of Milan, 25; 26; 328.
+
+  SIXTUS IV, Pope, 219; statue of, 221; 257.
+
+  SPAGNA, Lo, 207; 338; 341.
+
+  SPOLETO, 44; 45.
+
+  STANISLAUS, St., 207.
+
+  SUBASIO, Mount, 84; 258; ways to 363.
+
+  SYLVESTER, Brother, 239.
+
+
+    T
+
+  TAINE, H., quoted, 1, 198.
+
+  TESCIO River, 85; _note [52]_ 86; 124; 214.
+
+  THODE, Henry, _note [62]_ 125; 158; 164; 165; _note [73]_ 171;
+  206.
+
+  THREE COMPANIONS, legend of, 96; 229; 242.
+
+  TIBERIO D'ASSISI, frescoes at Assisi, 279, 306, 341.
+
+  TOTILA, 9; 325.
+
+  TREVELYAN, R. C., 7; 8.
+
+
+    U
+
+  UGOLINO, Bishop of Ostia, _see_ Gregory IX.
+
+
+    V
+
+  VASARI, Giorgio, quoted, 124, 153, 164, 170, 195, 244; 155, 156, 306.
+
+  VERNIA, LA, 71; _note [45]_ 75; St. Francis receives the Stigmata
+  at, 72; 210; 211; 243; 250.
+
+  VESPIGNANO, Giotto, born at, 168; 169.
+
+  VITRY, Jacques de, 15; quoted, 17, 240.
+
+
+
+
+TURNBULL AND SPEARS, PRINTERS. EDINBURGH
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Story of Assisi, by Lina Duff Gordon
+
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Story of Assisi, by Lina Duff Gordon
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Story of Assisi
+
+Author: Lina Duff Gordon
+
+Illustrator: Nelly Erichsen
+             M. Helen James
+
+Release Date: January 12, 2012 [EBook #38559]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STORY OF ASSISI ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<div class="tnbox">
+<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p>
+<p>Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
+Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation in the original
+document have been preserved.</p>
+<p>The illustration on page 310, labeled "East Front of San Francesco"
+is titled "Church of Sta. Maria Maggiore" in the List of Illustrations.</p>
+<p>The picture listed as "Umbrian Oxen" in the List of Illustrations does not appear in the
+book.  (Several copies of this and surrounding editions were checked.)</p>
+</div>
+<h1><i>The Story of Assisi</i></h1>
+
+<div class="poem p6">
+<p class="o1">"Between Tupino, and the wave that falls</p>
+<p>From blest Ubaldo's chosen hill, there hangs</p>
+<p>Rich slope of mountain high, whence heat and cold</p>
+<p>Are wafted through Perugia's eastern gate:</p>
+<p>And Nocera with Gualdo, in its rear,</p>
+<p>Mourn for their heavy yoke. Upon that side,</p>
+<p>Where it doth break its steepness most, arose</p>
+<p>A sun upon the world, as duly this</p>
+<p>From Ganges doth: therefore let none who speak</p>
+<p>Of that place, say Ascesi; for its name</p>
+<p>Were lamely so deliver'd; but the East,</p>
+<p>To call things rightly, be it henceforth styled."</p>
+<p class="i2"><span class="smcap">Dante</span>, <i>Paradiso</i>, xi. (Cary's translation).</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter p6" style="width: 333px"><a name="illo004" id="illo004"></a>
+<img src="images/illus004.jpg" width="333" height="650" alt="Statue of St. Francis." />
+<p class="caption"><span class="flleft s90"><i>P. Lunghi. Photo.</i></span></p>
+<p class="caption"><i>Statue of St. Francis.</i><br />
+<i>by Andrea della Robbia in Sta. Maria degli Angeli.</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter p12">
+<img src="images/illus005.jpg" width="405" height="650" alt="Title Page" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center p6"><span class="b150"><i>The Story of</i></span> <span class="b175">Assisi</span></p>
+<h2><i>by Lina Duff Gordon</i></h2>
+
+<h3><i>Illustrated by Nelly Erichsen<br />
+and M. Helen James</i></h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+<span class="b125"><i>London:</i></span>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<span class="b150"><i>J. M. Dent &amp; Co.</i></span><br />
+<span class="b125"><i>Aldine House, 29 and 30 Bedford Street</i></span><br />
+<span class="b125"><i>Covent Garden W.C.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &#42; &#42;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 1901</i></span></p>
+
+<p class="p6 center"><i>First Edition, December 1900</i><br />
+<i>Second Edition, October 1901</i></p>
+
+<p class="center p6"><i>All rights reserved</i></p>
+
+<p class="center p6"><i>To</i><br />
+<span class="b110"><i>Margaret Vaughan</i></span><br />
+
+<i>this small book is affectionately dedicated</i><br />
+<i>in remembrance of days spent together</i><br />
+<i>in the Umbrian country</i></p>
+
+<h3 class="p6">NOTE</h3>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">vii</a></span>
+<span class="dropcap">M</span>y sincerest thanks are due to my aunt Mrs Ross,
+to Mrs Vaughan, Dr E. Percival Wright, M.
+Paul Sabatier, Mr Sidney Colvin, Sir William Markby
+and Mr Pearsall Smith, for the help rendered me in
+various ways during the writing of this book. I wish
+further to acknowledge the kindness of Mr Roger
+Fry who allowed me to quote from his lectures on
+Art delivered this year in London, before they were
+published in the <i>New Monthly Review</i>; and also the
+generous permission of Mr Anderson (Rome), and
+Signor Lunghi (Assisi), for allowing me to use their
+photographs. For the loan of old Italian books I am
+indebted to Cav. Bruschi, Librarian of the Marucelliana
+at Florence, to Professor Bellucci, Professor of
+the University of Perugia, and to Signor Rossi, proprietor
+of the Hotel Subasio at Assisi, whose intimate
+knowledge of his native town has been of great service
+to me.</p>
+
+<p><span class="flright b110">
+L. D. G.</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap i2">Poggio Gherardo</span>,<br />
+<span class="smcap i1">Florence</span>, <i>October 1900</i>.</p>
+
+<h3 class="p6">CONTENTS</h3>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">ix</a></span></p>
+<table summary="Table of Contents">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="3">CHAPTER I</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdr s80">PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>War and Strife</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="3">CHAPTER II</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Umbrian Prophet</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="3">CHAPTER III</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Carceri, Rivo-Torto and Life at the
+Portiuncula</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="3">CHAPTER IV</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The building of the Basilica and Convent of
+San Francesco. The Story of Brother
+Elias</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="3">CHAPTER V</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Cimabue and his School at San Francesco</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="3">CHAPTER VI</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Paintings of Giotto and his School in the
+Lower Church</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Page_168">168</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="3">CHAPTER VII</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Sienese Masters in the Lower Church.
+The Convent</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Page_198">198</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">x</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="3">CHAPTER VIII</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Giotto's Legend of St. Francis in the Upper
+Church</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Page_228">228</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="3">CHAPTER IX</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>St. Clare at San Damiano. The Church of
+Santa Chiara</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Page_258">258</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="3">CHAPTER X</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Other Buildings in the Town</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Page_289">289</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdchap" colspan="3">CHAPTER XI</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli. The
+Feast of the Pardon of St. Francis or
+the "Perdono d'Assisi"</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Page_335">335</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<h3 class="p6">ILLUSTRATIONS</h3>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">xi</a></span></p>
+<table summary="List of Illustrations">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2">
+<i>Statue of St. Francis by Andrea della Robbia in
+Sta. Maria degli Angeli</i> (<i>P. Lunghi&mdash;photo</i>)</td>
+<td class="tdpage"><i><a href="#illo004">Photogravure-Frontispiece</a></i></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdr s80">PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Temple of Minerva</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo019">3</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Eastern Slope of Assisi with the Castle,
+from the Porta Cappucini</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo026">10</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Guelph Lion of Assisi</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo038">22</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Arms of Assisi</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo053">37</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Assisi in the time of St. Francis</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo054">38</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Via di S. Maria delle Rose</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo074">58</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Arms of the Franciscans</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo096">80</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Hermitage of the Carceri</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo098">82</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Carceri with a View of the Bridge</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo105">89</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Side Door of the Portiuncula built by St. Benedict</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo115">99</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Portiuncula in the time of St. Francis, from
+the "Collis Paradisi"</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo123">107</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Assisi from the Plain</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo129">113</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Church and Convent of San Francesco</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo143">127</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>San Francesco from the Plain</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo163">147</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Lower Church</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo166">150</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">xii</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Looking through the doors of the Upper Church
+towards the Porta S. Giacomo and the
+Castle</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo173">157</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Plan of the Lower Church and Monastery of
+San Francesco at Assisi</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo186">(<i>facing</i>) 168</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Choir and Transepts of the Lower Church</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo190">172</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Marriage of St. Francis with Poverty</i>
+(<i>D. Anderson&mdash;photo</i>)</td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo197">179</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Old Cemetery of San Francesco</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"> <a href="#illo212">194</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Knighthood of St. Martin by Simone Martini</i>
+(<i>D. Anderson&mdash;photo</i>)</td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo219">201</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Bird's Eye View of the Basilica and Convent
+of San Francesco, from a drawing made in
+1820</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo231">213</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>San Francesco from the Tescio</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo235">217</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Staircase leading from the Upper to the Lower
+Piazza of San Francesco</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo238">220</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>San Francesco from the Ponte S. Vittorino</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo240">222</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>A Friar of the Minor Conventual Order of St.
+Francis</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo243">225</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>St. Francis Renounces the World</i> (<i>D. Anderson&mdash;photo</i>)</td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo251">233</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Death of the Knight of Celano</i> (<i>D. Anderson&mdash;photo</i>)</td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo265">247</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Arms of the Franciscans from the Intarsia of
+the Stalls</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo275">257</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">xiii</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Door through which St. Clare left the Palazzo
+Scifi</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo280">262</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>San Damiano, showing the Window with the
+Ledge whence St. Claire routed the Saracens</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo286">268</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Santa Chiara</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"> <a href="#illo300">282</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Santa Chiara from near the Porta Mojano</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo305">287</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Campanile of San Rufino</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo308">290</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Door of San Rufino</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo313">295</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Dome and Apse of San Rufino from the
+Canon's Garden</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo316">298</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Campanile of Sta. Maria Maggiore</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo327">309</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Church of Sta. Maria Maggiore</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo328">310</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Church of S. Pietro</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo331">313</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Confraternity of San Francescuccio in Via
+Garibaldi</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo333">315</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Monte Frumentorio in the Via Principe di
+Napoli</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo338">320</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>House of the Comacine Builders in the Via
+Principe di Napole</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo340">322</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Looking across the Assisan roofs towards the
+East</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo343">325</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>View of San Francesco from beneath the Castle
+Walls</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo350">332</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Garden of the Roses at Sta. Maria degli
+Angeli</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo357">339</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">xiv</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>The Fonte Marcella by Galeazzo Alessi</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo364">346</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>An Assisan Garden in Via Garibaldi</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo365">347</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Umbrian Oxen</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage">349</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Women from the Basilicata</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo369">351</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>San Francesco</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#illo374">356</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+
+<td class="tdtitle" colspan="2"><i>Plan of Assisi</i></td>
+<td class="tdpage"><a href="#Map">372</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center b200 p6">The Story of Assisi</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p>
+<hr />
+<p class="center b125">CHAPTER I</p>
+
+<p class="center b175"><i>War and Strife</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"C'était le temps des guerres sans pitié et des inimitiés
+mortelles." <span class="smcap">H. Taine.</span> <i>Voyage en Italie.</i> <i>Perouse et Assise.</i>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="dropcap">A</span>ll who ascend the hill of the Seraphic City
+must feel its indescribable charm&mdash;intangible,
+mysterious, and quite distinct from the beauty of the
+Umbrian valley. "Why," we ask ourselves, "this
+stillness and sense of marvellous peace in every church
+and every street?" And, as though conscious of our
+thoughts, a young Assisan, with a gesture of infinite
+sadness towards the large, desolate palaces and broad
+deserted streets, said, as we lingered on our way:
+"Ah! Signore mie, our city is a city of the dead&mdash;of
+memories only." As he spoke a long procession of
+a grey-clothed confraternity, bearing on their breasts
+the franciscan badge, preceded by a priest who walked
+beneath a baldachino, streamed out of a small church.
+Slowly they passed down the road, and then the priest
+turned into a wayside cottage where lay a dying woman,
+while the others waited outside under the olive trees.
+But the sound of their chanting and the tinkling of
+the small bell came to us as we leaned over the city
+walls. Of a truth we felt the religious life of the town
+was not dead: perchance, down those streets, now so
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span>
+still, men had passed along to battle during the sad
+turmoil of the middle ages, had hated and loved as
+well as prayed, with all the fervour of their southern
+nature. We must turn to the early chroniclers to
+find in their fascinating pages that Assisi has had her
+passionate past and her hours of deepest trial.</p>
+
+<p>Her origin goes back to the days when the Umbrians,
+one of the most ancient people of Italy, inhabited the
+country north and south of the Tiber, and lived a wild
+life in caves. But the past is very dim; some
+Umbrian inscriptions, a few flint arrow heads, and
+some hatchets made of jade found on the shore of
+lake Thrasymene are the only records we possess of
+these early settlers.</p>
+
+<p>If written history of their ways and origin is lacking,
+the later chroniclers of Assisi endeavour to supply with
+their gossip, what is missing. Rambling and strange as
+their legends often seem to us, nevertheless they contain
+a germ of truth, an image, faint but partly true
+of a time so infinitely far away. Most of the local
+Umbrian historians have awarded the honour of the
+foundation of their own particular town to the earliest
+heroes whom they happen to know of, and these are
+invariably Noah and his family. It is, therefore,
+curious to note that the Assisan chroniclers have departed
+from this custom and have woven for themselves
+a legend so different from the usual friar's tale:
+"Various are the opinions," says one of them, "concerning
+the first building of our city; but the most
+probable, and the most universally accepted by serious
+writers, is the one which gives Dardanus as her founder.
+In the year 713 after the Deluge, and 865 years before
+the foundation of Rome, the first civil war in Italy broke
+out between the brothers Jasius and Dardanus, both sons
+of Electra; but the father of Jasius was Jupiter, while
+Dardanus was the son of Corythus, King of Cortona."
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span>
+The people of Umbria took sides, as some would have
+it that Jasius ought to be king in the place of the dead
+prince Corythus.
+Now it happened that
+Dardanus had
+pitched his tent on
+the slope of Mount
+Subasio, when a
+dream came to him
+that Jupiter and
+Minerva were preparing
+to assail the
+enemy, and that Jasius
+would be vanquished.
+On waking he determined,
+should his
+dream be true, to raise
+a temple to the goddess
+on the spot where
+he had slept. He
+went forth to battle,
+and with the help of
+the goddess drove the
+enemy back with great
+slaughter; Jasius was
+killed and they buried
+him on the field of
+battle. "Full well did Dardanus keep his vow, for in
+a few months there arose a wonderful building, now
+known as the sacred temple, dedicated to the true
+Minerva of Heaven, under the name of Santa Maria
+Sopra Minerva. Thus it is that the country round Assisi
+has been called <i>Palladios agros</i>, the fields of Pallas."<a name="FNanchor_1" id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figright"><a name="illo019" id="illo019"></a>
+<img src="images/illus019.jpg" width="300" height="446" alt="THE TEMPLE OF MINERVA" />
+<p class="caption">THE TEMPLE OF MINERVA</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span></p>
+
+<p>And thus the monk dreams on about the Seraphic
+Province of Umbria; and we dream with him of the
+Umbrians who forsook the chase and their shepherd
+huts on the heights about Subasio, to gather round the
+marvellous temple built by the hero ere he went forth to
+found the city of Troy. People came from afar to look
+at the six-fluted columns, and while marvelling at a
+thing so fair, they resolved to build their homes within
+sight and under the shadow of the sacred walls. Here
+was the nucleus of a future town. The simple shelters
+of cane and brushwood were soon replaced by huts of
+a neater pattern made of wattle and clay, with earthen
+floors, rounded porches and pent roofs. The dwellers
+by the temple throve and prospered, and all was peace
+for a while, until the van-guard of that mysterious
+people, the Etruscans, appeared on the Umbrian
+horizon. We are told how Dardanus, while visiting
+the King of Lydia on his way to Troy, drew such a
+highly-coloured picture of the loveliness of Tuscany,
+the fruitful qualities of the soil, and the lightness of the
+air, that Tyrrhenus, the king's son, was immediately
+sent with a large army to take possession of so rich a
+province. Then came a struggle, and the Umbrian
+tribes were driven back south of the Tiber, which
+henceforth strictly defined the boundary between
+Umbria and Etruria.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately to the west of Assisi, and on the longest
+spur of hills which juts out into the valley of the Tiber,
+stood the now Etruscan city of Perugia, to which a
+band of Etruscans had lately immigrated. The huge,
+grim walls which grew up round it after the advent
+of the new settlers, the narrow pointed gateways,
+some guarded by heads of stern and unknown deities,
+the general menacing and ferocious aspect of its buildings,
+soon warned the smaller Umbrian cities of what
+they might in coming ages expect from her inhabitants.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span>
+It is probable that skirmishes were frequent between
+the neighbouring towns of Assisi and Perugia, and to
+judge from the subterranean passages which still exist
+beneath the streets of the former place, we may gather
+that she was open to constant attacks, and that her inhabitants
+found it more prudent to disappear underground
+at the approach of enemies than to meet them in open
+battle. These subterranean galleries, cut in the soft
+tufa, extend for miles under the present city: branching
+out in all directions they form a veritable labyrinth
+of secret passages. Here swiftly and silently as the
+foe advanced, men and women with their children
+would disappear into the bowels of the earth, some
+being occasionally buried beneath masses of soil shaken
+down by the tramp of many feet above them. Repeated
+dangers of this sort at last decided the Assisans to meet
+their enemies in more war-like fashion, and to surround
+themselves&mdash;as Perugia had done&mdash;with stones and
+mortar. Soon the town bristled with towers and
+turreted gateways, and the houses, no longer built of
+wattle and mud, began to foreshadow the strongly
+fortified palaces of a later date. None too soon did
+Assisi prepare for war. In the year 309 <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> the
+shrill sound of the Roman clarion echoed through the
+Cimminian forest. It roused Etruria to arms, proclaiming
+the fact that the Romans had dared to penetrate
+beyond this dangerous barrier which hitherto had been
+deemed impassable. The Etruscans and Umbrians,
+forgetting all their former strifes, now joined against
+the new power which threatened to crush their liberties.
+The battles which followed beneath the walls of
+Perugia, and by Bevagna in the plain of the Clitumnus,
+brought all Umbria, in the space of a single year, under
+the yoke of Rome.</p>
+
+<p>And now, although we leave the fields of legend
+and enter those of history, we find but little mention
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span>
+of Assisi: this is, however, easily accounted for. Built
+upon the unfrequented slopes of Mount Subasio, like a
+flower gradually opening to the sun's rays, she was
+far more secure than her neighbour Perugia who, commanding
+and commanded by the road from Rome to
+Ravenna, along which an army passed, stood in haughty
+and uncompromising pre-eminence. The comparatively
+obscure position of Assisi therefore gave her long
+periods of peace, and these she employed in building
+innumerable temples, a theatre, and a circus. It is
+impossible to excavate in any part of Assisi without
+coming upon relics of that time. Statues and busts
+of the Cæsars, of gods and of consuls, are lying in
+dark corners of the communal palace, and broken
+fragments of delicately-wrought friezes and heads of
+goddesses, half buried in bushes of oleander, adorn
+the Assisan gardens. Beneath the foundations of the
+more modern houses, mosaic floors and frescoed walls
+have been found, showing that Assisi had her years
+of early splendour. But full of life and action as this
+Roman period was, it is as completely hidden from us
+as are the temples now buried beneath the present
+town. It passed rapidly away, and yet is of some
+importance in the history of the world as having witnessed
+the birth of Sex.&nbsp;Aurelius Propertius, great
+among the poets even at a time when Virgil, Horace,
+and a host of others were filling Italy with their song.</p>
+
+<p>Many an Umbrian town prides itself on being the
+birthplace of Propertius. The people of Spello have
+even placed a tablet in their walls to claim him as her
+son; but the Assisans, ignoring the rivalry of others,
+very quietly point to the many inscriptions of the
+Propertius' family collected beneath the portico of the
+Temple of Minerva. One may be noticed referring to
+C. Passennus Sergius Paullus Propertius Blaesus, said
+to be a lineal descendant of the poet, who is supposed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span>
+to have married after the death of the fair Cynthia,
+and returned to his native valley to pass his last days
+in domestic tranquillity. Angelo Poliziano, on the
+margin of an early edition of the poet's works now in
+the Laurentian Library of Florence, has made a note
+to the effect that Propertius, as well as St. Francis, was
+born at Assisi; and certainly modern writers assign the
+honour to Assisi.</p>
+
+<p>The somewhat vague utterances of Propertius as to
+his native town seem to show that the position of
+Assisi, with regard to Perugia and the plain, more
+nearly coincides with his description than that of any
+other city in the valley or on the hills. To one inquisitive
+friend he answers: "Tullus, thou art ever
+entreating me in the name of our friendship to tell
+thee my country and my descent. If thou knowest
+Perusia, which gave a field of death and a sepulchre
+to our father and in Italy's hour of affliction, when
+domestic discord drove Rome's own citizens one
+against the other&mdash;(Ah! hills of Etruria, to me
+beyond measure have ye given sorrow, for ye suffered
+the limbs of my kinsman to be cast aside unburied, and
+denied the handful of dust to cover his bones)&mdash;there
+it was that, close above the margin of her plain
+spread below, Umbria, rich in fertile domains, gave
+me birth."<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> The kinsman spoken of here is a certain
+Gallus, who lost his life in <span class="smcap">b.c.</span> 41, when Lucius
+Antonius was besieged in Perugia by Augustus. The
+horrors of the general massacre which followed the fall
+of the city left sad memories in the mind of Propertius,
+then a mere child. In the general confiscation of property
+after the battle of Philippi his family lost their
+estates. But poor as they were, Propertius was sent
+to Rome to study, where, recognised as the leader of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span>
+a new school of poetry, he remained until shortly
+before his death, at the age of thirty-five. His paternal
+estates having been restored to him, he forsook the
+splendour of the Augustan court, the patronage of
+Maecenas, the friendship of Virgil, and returned to
+the Umbrian country where his first inspirations had
+been awakened. The contrast between a house and
+garden on the Palatine hill, in the midst of the stir
+of Roman life, and a farm by the silent stream flowing
+through the stillest of valleys, must have been great.
+But, judging from his description of the country, he
+seems to have fallen readily into rural ways, and loved
+to watch the herds of white oxen, dedicated to the
+service of the goddesses, grazing close to the banks
+of the Clitumnus. We may infer that he hunted the
+"timorous hare and birds" in the thick oak forest
+of the Spoletan valley, but, as he playfully tells us, he
+left "the hazardous boar alone," for physical courage
+was not one of his characteristics.</p>
+
+<p>From the plain his eyes were often raised in the
+direction of Assisi, and to his familiarity with her
+towers we owe this exquisite description of his birthplace,
+which, perhaps out of modesty, as he alludes to
+his own fame, he places in the mouth of a soothsayer:
+"Ancient Umbria gave thee birth from a noted household.
+Do I mistake, or do I touch rightly the region
+of your home, where misty Mevania stands among the
+dews of the hill-girt plain, and the waters of the
+Umbrian lake grow warm the summer through, and
+where on the summit of mounting Asis rise the walls
+to which your genius has added glory."<a name="FNanchor_3" id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
+
+<p>Nothing happens, or at least nothing is mentioned
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span>
+in Assisan chronicles until Christianity stealthily worked
+its way up from Rome about the third century. Then
+bloodshed followed during a period of darkness when
+Christians and pagans divided the town into factions by
+their bitter fights for religion. At first the Christians
+suffered, and many were martyred in the Umbrian
+rivers, but only to triumph later when Roman Assisi
+soon vanished and Christian basilicas were built on the
+site of pagan temples. Although, after the Roman
+period, we find Assisi more nearly linked with the
+general history of Italy, she appears uninfluenced by
+outside events, and her atmosphere of remoteness
+remains unimpaired. Thus we may say that Huns,
+Franks, and Lombards merely passed by and left no
+lasting mark upon the city. For a moment she was
+suddenly aroused by the tempestuous arrival of one or
+other of their leaders, but once the danger was past she
+returned to her calm sleep upon the mountain side.</p>
+
+<p>In 545 Totila, on his march to Rome, arrived before
+the walls of Assisi which were gallantly defended for
+the Emperor Justinian by Siegfried the Goth, but
+unfortunately he being killed in a skirmish with the
+Huns, the disheartened citizens reluctantly opened
+their gates to the enemy. For the first time in her
+annals (the Roman occupation had been peaceful
+enough) a foreigner&mdash;a tyrant set foot in her streets
+as master. But the restless Totila soon began to scan
+the country round for other cities to attack. Becoming
+aware of the large and wealthy city of Perugia perched
+upon the western hill, he sallied forth to capture a
+bigger prey, and Assisi enjoyed a further spell of peace.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo026" id="illo026"></a>
+<img src="images/illus026.jpg" width="468" height="550" alt="THE EASTERN SLOPE OF ASSISI WITH THE CASTLE, FROM THE
+PORTA CAPPUCCINI" />
+<p class="caption">THE EASTERN SLOPE OF ASSISI WITH THE CASTLE, FROM THE
+PORTA CAPPUCCINI</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In reading the long-winded chronicles it is often
+difficult to gather to which power the various small
+towns at this time belonged. One point is, however,
+clear, that during endless contentions between the Popes
+and the Greek, and later the German Emperors, the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span>
+Umbrian cities were often left to manage their own
+affairs, and because of the periods of rest which they
+thus enjoyed and used in their individual ways, we are
+inclined to speak of them as republics. For a long
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span>
+time Assisi remained annexed to the Duchy of Spoleto,
+then under the rule of the Lombard Dukes whose
+advent had filled the different cities in the valley with
+Arian Christians, unfriendly to the Papacy. Assisi,
+together with other towns swerved from her allegiance
+to the Pope, and it is perhaps on this account that
+Charlemagne in 773 with his "terrible and fierce
+followers" came to besiege her. They laid the country
+waste, and made many attacks upon Assisi which
+met with stout resistance; but while prowling round
+the walls one night they found the main drain, and
+stealing through it they were able to discover the
+weakest part of the town. Next night they returned
+well armed, slew the guards who were keeping watch
+by the midnight fires, and before the citizens could rush
+to arms, the gates were opened to Charlemagne. The
+army passed in, her citizens were put to the sword, and
+the town razed to the ground.</p>
+
+<p>"Thus," says a chronicler, "Assisi bereft of her
+inhabitants, found herself an unhappy widow. Then
+was the most clement emperor grieved, and ordering
+that the city should be rebuilt, he placed therein a
+new colony of Christians of the Roman faith, and the
+city was restored, and in it the Divine Worship."<a name="FNanchor_4" id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p>
+
+<p>A small arched doorway ornamented with a delicate
+frieze of foliage still remains as a record of the rebuilding
+of the city by Charlemagne's Lombard workmen.
+The stone is blackened, the tracery worn away. Few
+find this dark corner in the Piazza delle Rose, and the
+people wonder at those who stop to look, for "it is
+ugly and very old," they say.</p>
+
+<p>It was probably at this time, towards the end of
+the eighth century, that the Rocca d'Assisi was built.
+This made her a more important factor in Umbrian
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span>
+politics; and leaders of armies, who hitherto had paid
+her but a hurried visit, now vied with each other to
+possess a city with so fair a crown. The citizens had
+chosen for the site of the castle the part where the
+hill rises in a sudden peak above the town, looking to
+the north across a deep ravine towards the mountains
+of Gualdo and Nocera. Above the main building and
+the four crenelated towers soared the castle keep; from
+the ramparts started two lines of walls which, going
+east and west, gathered the town as it were within a
+nest. At intervals rose forts connected by a covered
+passage, and tall towers guarded the walls where they
+joined the city gates. The Rocca d'Assisi with this
+chain of walls bristling with iron spikes and towers,
+complete in strength and perfect in architecture, looked
+down upon the town like some guarding deity, and was
+the pride of every citizen. It was no gloomy stronghold
+such as the French kings erected in the woods
+of Tourraine, but built of the yellow Subasian stone
+it seemed more like a mighty palace with windows
+large and square, whence many a <i>condottiere</i> and many a
+noble prisoner leant out to look upon the splendid sweep
+of country from Perugia to Spoleto.</p>
+
+<p>Proud as the citizens were of their new-born importance
+they soon regretted the calmer days of their
+obscurity. By the twelfth century they were torn
+between the Pope, the Emperor, and their own turbulent
+factions, for even in the smaller towns the cries of
+Guelph and Ghibelline were beginning to be heard.
+Whenever German potentates&mdash;"the abhorred Germans"
+as the chroniclers call them&mdash;had their hands
+well clenched upon an Umbrian town, the citizens
+turned imploring eyes towards Rome. The promise of
+municipal liberty was the bait which every pontiff
+knew well how to use for his own profit. The German,
+on the other hand, troubled not to use diplomacy as a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span>
+means to gain his ends, but brought an army to storm
+the town, and took up his residence in the castle,
+whence he could hear the murmurings of the citizens
+below planning to drive him out of their gates. The
+first distinguished but unwelcome guest in the Rocca
+d'Assisi was Frederick Barbarossa. He was, however,
+too much occupied in his career of conquest to waste
+more than a few weeks in Umbria, and in 1195 we
+find Conrad of Suabia, who in the annals of the time
+is known by the nickname of "the whimsical one," in
+charge of the castle, with the title of Count of Assisi.
+Conrad was also Duke of Spoleto, but he preferred the
+fortress of Assisi as a residence and spent some two
+years there to the annoyance of the citizens, who were
+constrained to be more or less on their good behaviour.
+With him in those days was a small but important
+person, who, at the age of two, had been elected King
+of Germany and Italy. This was Frederick II, and
+the legend recounts how he was born in the Piazza
+Minerva beneath a tent hastily erected for the occasion,
+and in his third year was baptised in the Cathedral
+of San Rufino, amidst a throng of cardinals, bishops,
+Assisan priors and nobles. It would, indeed, be
+strange that he, who later was to prove a thorn in
+the side of many a Pope, should have been born and
+nurtured in the Seraphic City.</p>
+
+<p>The Assisans soon wearied of the German yoke,
+but unaided they could not throw it off and it needed
+the timely intervention of Innocent III, to rid them of
+Conrad's presence. The Pope, who had been quietly
+waiting an opportunity to regain his lost Umbrian
+towns, felt himself powerful enough now that the
+Emperor Henry VI, was dead, to send haughty commands
+to Conrad. He was bidden to meet Innocent
+at Narni where he solemnly made over his possessions
+to the Church. Thus left to themselves, the Assisans,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span>
+with cries of "Liberty and the Pope," rushed on the
+castle to tear it down. Built to be their safeguard, it
+proved their greatest danger, and they determined that
+no other tyrant should find shelter within its walls.
+While the Assisans were rejoicing in their freedom,
+and endeavouring to guard against the constant attacks
+of the Perugians, the big world outside was being torn
+and rent by a medley of events which was carrying
+men's thoughts forward in the swift current of a fresh
+era. Everywhere a new spirit was spreading&mdash;"the
+fraternising spirit" it has been called. In the cities
+men were joining together in guilds, heralding the
+commonwealths; while, in the country, bands of people,
+under the names of Patarins, Albergenses, Poor Men
+of Lyons, etc., raised the standard of revolt yet higher
+against their feudal and spiritual lords. A contemporary
+writer speaks of thirty-two heresies as being
+rampant in Italy at this time. Men were eager and
+full of energy, finding relief through many channels
+that set all Italy in a ferment. But amidst the confusion
+of wars and heresies the Papal power grew ever
+stronger, until, with the accession of Innocent III,
+the claims of a temporal ruler were blended with
+spiritual rights. The Marches of Ancona, Umbria,
+and the seven hills of Rome belonged alike to him,
+while he was powerful enough to excommunicate
+cities, kingdoms, and emperors at his pleasure, and
+rule all with a rod of iron. The magnificent designs
+planned by Hildebrand seemed to triumph under Innocent,
+and yet the papal horizon was not without its
+clouds.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="o1">"Ah Constantine! of how much ill was cause,</p>
+<p>Not thy conversion, but those rich domains</p>
+<p>That the first wealthy Pope received of thee,"<a name="FNanchor_5" id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span></p>
+
+<p>groans Dante, in writing of the condition of the
+Church, and his cry reaches back to the time of which
+we write. Jacques de Vitry, who was often at the
+court of Innocent, also speaks with bitterness of the
+depravity of the priests. They were, he tells us,
+"deceiving as foxes, proud as bulls, avaricious and
+insatiable as the minotaur."</p>
+
+<p>Innocent III, though scheming and ambitious, was a
+man of lofty character, and no one watched with so
+much anguish the rising storms which threatened to
+shake the mighty fabric of the Papacy. In a moment
+of discouragement he is said to have exclaimed that
+fire and sword were needed to heal the wounds made
+by the simoniacal priests, and for a long time he in
+vain sought a remedy for those ills. But salvation
+was at hand, and it came from the Umbrian mountains,
+as the fresh breeze comes which suddenly breaks
+upon the budding trees in springtime.</p>
+
+<p>Within the narrow circuit of the Assisan walls arose
+a figure of magical power who drew men to him by
+the charm of his mysticism and the spell of his ardent
+nature. It is the sweet-souled saint of mediæval Italy&mdash;St.
+Francis of Assisi&mdash;who now illuminates this
+quiet corner of the world.</p>
+
+<p>Francis Bernardone was born in the year 1182,
+when, as we have seen, the Church was harrowed by
+a hundred ills. He passed a gay youth, free from
+every care, and tested all the pleasures that riches
+could procure. Though the son of a merchant he
+consorted with the noblest of the Assisan youths,
+who, partly on account of his father's wealth, partly
+because of his gaiety and love of splendour, were glad
+to accept him as an equal. All looked to the high-spirited,
+gifted Francis as the leader at every feast, the
+organiser of every entertainment, and when Perugia
+blew her war-trumpet he rode out to battle side by
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span>
+side with the Assisan cavaliers. Such, in a few words,
+was his position in Assisi when in his twenty-second
+year, after a severe illness which brought him to the
+brink of the grave, he resolved to follow to the letter
+the precept of the Gospel and lead the life of the first
+apostles. So complete was his conversion that he,
+the rich merchant's son, was to be seen walking through
+the streets with bricks on his back for the repair of the
+ruined churches of Assisi, while his former companions
+drew back and laughed as he passed them. But their
+derision was of short duration, for the charm they had
+felt in former days had by no means passed away.
+Holiness could never make him sad, and in the human
+tenderness and joyousness of his nature lay the secret
+of that power which was strong enough, the Assisans
+soon discovered, to lead them where he would&mdash;though
+it was now by a new road he travelled.</p>
+
+<p>The great movement, which began at Assisi and
+spread throughout Europe in a very few years, can
+only be likened to that witnessed by the lake of
+Galilee. Rich citizens gave all to the poor; the
+peasants left the vintage and sold their oxen, to join
+the ever-swelling crowd of bare-footed disciples who
+wandered through cities and into distant lands bringing
+comfort and words of peace to all they met. Like a
+ray of brilliant sunshine St. Francis dispersed the gloom
+of the middle ages, teaching men that the qualities of
+mercy and love were to be looked for from God
+instead of the inflexible justice that had overshadowed
+a religion intended to be all light. He walked the
+earth with joyous steps, inviting all to come with him
+and see how beautiful was the world; he looked
+upwards, praising God in bursts of eloquent song for
+the rain that fed the flowers, the birds that sang to
+him in the woods, and the blueness of his Umbrian sky.
+How different from the stern, orthodox saints who
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span>
+passed through the loveliest valleys with downcast eyes
+for fear of some hidden temptation or of some interruption
+to their prayers! With such a founder it is
+hardly surprising that the order of St. Francis spread
+and multiplied, becoming a great world force, as
+great and perhaps greater than that of St. Dominic.
+We get an interesting picture of the change he wrought
+throughout Italy and of the enthusiasm he kindled
+among his followers in a letter of Jacques de Vitry;
+from this we quote at length, for, being written by a
+contemporary of the saint, its value is very great.</p>
+
+<p>"While I was at the pontifical court I saw many
+things which grieved me to the heart. Everyone
+is so preoccupied with secular and temporal things,
+with matters concerning kings and kingdoms, litigations
+and lawsuits, that it is almost impossible to talk on
+religious matters.</p>
+
+<p>"Yet I found one subject for consolation in those
+lands: in that many persons of either sex, rich, and
+living in the great world, leave all for the love of
+Christ and renounce the world. They are called the
+Friars Minor, and are held in great respect by the
+Pope and the Cardinals. They, on their part, care
+nought for things temporal, and strive hard every day
+to tear perishing souls from the vanities of this world
+and to entice them into their ranks. Thanks be to
+God, their labour has already borne fruit, and they have
+gained many souls: inasmuch as he who listens to them
+brings others, and thus one audience creates another.</p>
+
+<p>"They live according to the rule of the primitive
+church, of which it is written: 'The multitude of
+believers were as one heart and one soul.' In the day
+they go into the cities and the villages to gain over
+souls and to work; in the night they betake themselves
+to hermitages and solitary places and give themselves
+up to contemplation.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"The women live together near to cities in divers
+convents; they accept nought, but live by the labour
+of their hands. They are much disturbed to find
+themselves held in greater esteem, both by the clergy
+and the laity, than they themselves desire.</p>
+
+<p>"The men of this order meet once a year in some
+pre-arranged place, to their great profit, and rejoice
+together in the Lord and eat in company; and then,
+with the help of good and honest men, they adopt and
+promulgate holy institutions, approved by the Pope.
+After this they disperse, going about in Lombardy,
+Tuscany, and even in Apulia and Sicily, for the rest of
+the year.... I think it is to put the prelates to shame,
+who are like dogs unable to bark, that the Lord wills
+to save many souls before the end of the world, by
+means of these poor simple friars."<a name="FNanchor_6" id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p>
+
+<p>Certainly one of the most remarkable events in
+mediæval history was the result of the teaching of
+St. Francis upon his own and future generations. In
+his native city the strength of his personal influence and
+the love and veneration which he excited was extraordinary.
+But we notice even a stranger fact; with
+his death this holy influence apparently vanished, and it
+is possible that the memory of the saint is dearer to
+the hearts of the Assisans in what we are inclined to
+call the prosaic tedium of our trafficking nineteenth
+century, than it was in the years immediately following
+his death. Later centuries have shown us that his
+teaching and his presence there were not in vain.
+Assisi, down to our own times, has continued to be
+the Mecca of thousands of pilgrims. Her churches
+bear the record of infinite early piety, for when art
+was in its early prime the most famous masters from
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span>
+Tuscany were called upon to decorate the Franciscan
+Basilica and leave their choicest treasures there as
+tributes to the immortal glory of the saint. But the
+note of war rings louder than the song of praise and
+love for many years to come in all the Assisan
+chronicles, and grass and weeds grow up to choke,
+though not to kill, the blessed seed that Francis sowed
+and did not live to tend. No sooner did the gates of
+death close upon that sweet and genial spirit, than war,
+lust, strife and pestilence burst upon the very people
+he had so tenderly loved. The story of Assisi becomes,
+as it had never been before, a list of murders&mdash;of
+struggles to the death for individual power, and of
+wars which made the fair Umbrian country a desolate
+and cruel waste for months and even years.</p>
+
+<p>Each town looked with hatred upon its powerful
+rival, and the communal armies were for ever meeting
+in the plain by the Tiber to match their strength and
+see if some small portion at least of a city's domains
+could not be wrested from her. The bitterest and
+most pronounced enemies in the valley were undoubtedly
+Assisi and Perugia. Their feuds date back
+to the twelfth century; but even before the Christian
+era these two cities of the hills had marked each other
+as a foe for the one was Umbrian, the other Etruscan,
+and they merely continued the rivalry of their founders.
+It is often difficult to discover the cause of each separate
+war, but it may, as a general rule, be traced to Perugia's
+inborn love of fighting, and to her restless spirit which
+led her to storm each town in turn. From her eyrie
+she looked straight down upon half the Umbrian
+country, and gazing daily on so fair a land the desire
+for possession grew ever stronger. Many towns were
+forced to submit to her sway, and by the thirteenth
+century she was the acknowledged mistress of Umbria.
+It is, therefore, with surprise and admiration that we
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span>
+watch the undaunted struggle of Assisi against a tyrant
+whom she hated with a hatred quite Dantesque in its
+bitterness and strength. Many menacing towers were
+built on either side of the valley, and heralds were
+continually sent between the two towns with insulting
+messages to goad the citizens forward into battle.
+When Perugia was known to be preparing for an
+attack upon Assisi, the castles and villages around
+hastened to break their allegiance to the weaker city
+and ally themselves with the Perugian griffin. Assisi
+was thus often obliged to defend herself unaided
+against the Umbrian tyrant. When, in 1321 Perugia
+declared war against "this most wicked city of Assisi"
+whose crime consisted in having fallen under the rule
+of the Ghibelline party of her citizens,<a name="FNanchor_7" id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> both communes
+were in need of money as their bellicose habits had
+proved expensive. Busily, therefore, they set to work
+about procuring it, and in a highly characteristic
+manner Perugia sold her right of fishing in Thrasymene
+for five years, while the citizens of the Seraphic
+City entered by force into the sacristy of San Francesco
+and carried off a quantity of sacred spoils. Gold
+ornaments, censers, chalices, crucifixes of rare workmanship
+and precious stuffs, were divided into lots
+and sold, partly to Arezzo for 14,000 golden florins,
+and partly to Florence for a larger sum. Now these
+things did not even belong to the Franciscans, but had
+been carefully stored in the sacristy by the Pope and
+his cardinals during their last visit to the town. Great,
+therefore, was the wrath at the Papal Court when
+news came of the sacrilegious robbery, and without a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span>
+moment's delay a bull of excommunication was fulminated
+from Avignon. For thirty-eight years Assisi
+lay under the heavy sentence of an interdict, and, except
+for the feast of the "Pardon of St. Francis," the
+church doors were closed and the church bells were
+silent. But not a whit did the people care for the
+anger of a distant Pope, and it is related that when
+the two friars brought the bull of excommunication to
+Ser Muzio di Francesco, the leader of the robbers,
+they were flogged within an inch of their lives, and
+further, they were made to swallow the seals of lead
+which hung from the Papal document.</p>
+
+<p>The Assisans, having obtained the necessary funds,
+set to work to defend themselves against the enemy
+who were to be seen rolling their heavy catapults along
+the dusty roads. A proud historian says, "they saw
+without flinching 500 horsemen galloping round their
+walls," and with a heroism worthy of so good a cause,
+determined to be buried in the ruins of their city sooner
+than cede one step to their abhorred enemies the
+Perugians. They closed the shops, barred the houses
+and threw the chains across the streets to stop advancing
+cavalry; every artisan turned soldier, every noble
+watched from the tower of his palace. Not only were
+they guarding their own liberties, but they feared for
+the safety of the body of St. Francis, which the
+Perugians, ever prowling day and night about the walls,
+were anxious to carry off. The siege, it is said, lasted
+a year, when the Assisans were forced to give way and
+open their gates to the enemy, who sacked the town,
+"killing more than one hundred of the most wicked
+citizens, to wit, all those who fought against the city of
+Perugia." Then came a perilous moment, for many, not
+content with a barbarous pillage, wished to destroy Assisi
+altogether. Fortunately a wily Perugian, Massiolo di
+Buonante, stood up in her defence, arguing that "Assisi
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span>
+being now in their power, it were better to possess her
+fortified, and well provided against any new attack of
+the Ghibelline party."<a name="FNanchor_8" id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> His words had due effect, but
+still the town suffered horribly, and her walls only lately
+built were in greater part razed to the ground. The
+chains that guarded the streets together with the bars
+and keys of the gates were taken back to Perugia,
+where, until a century ago,
+they hung "as glorious
+trophies" from the claws
+of the bronze griffon outside
+the Palazzo Pubblico.
+Before leaving, the Perugians
+gave their orders to
+the now submissive city.
+The Guelphs were to live
+within the ancient circle
+of walls in the upper and
+more fortified part of the
+town, while the Ghibellines
+were left in the
+undefended suburbs.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="illo038" id="illo038"></a>
+<img src="images/illus038.jpg" width="200" height="263" alt="THE GUELPH LION OF ASSISI" />
+<p class="caption">THE GUELPH LION OF ASSISI</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>They further commanded
+that each year, on the feast
+of St. Ercolano, the Assisans should bring them a
+banner "worth at least 25 golden florins, <i>in signum
+subjectionis</i>." This was the greatest ignominy of all,
+and rankled even more deeply in the hearts of the
+citizens of Assisi than the fact of their being governed
+by Perugian officials. The delivery of the yearly
+tribute was performed in a manner highly characteristic
+of the times and of the love of petty tyranny and display
+peculiar to the mediæval towns. An Assisan
+horseman mounted on a splendidly caparisoned charger
+brought the hated emblem to lay before the Priors of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span>
+Perugia, who robed in crimson, with heavy golden
+chains about their necks, waited at the foot of the
+campanile of San Lorenzo. Close to them stood
+four mace bearers and trumpeters with white griffins
+painted on the red satin streamers which hung from the
+silver trumpets. Nothing was neglected that would
+impress her subjects with the dignity of her hill-set
+city. All the Perugians were assembled, and in their
+name the Priors promised to defend Assisi against her
+enemies and to preserve her from the yoke of tyrants.
+Having uttered this solemn mockery, they gave the
+Podestà of Assisi a sealed book wherein were written
+the laws to be observed in return for the inestimable
+favours granted; the book was not to be opened until
+he and his retinue had returned to their own city. The
+spirit of the Assisans was by no means crushed by their
+misfortunes, and shortly after the events we have just
+narrated they issued an edict with a pomp worthy of
+Perugia herself which fairly puzzled the Priors of
+that city. All Perugians holding land in Assisi were
+herein ordered to pay the taxes usually demanded of
+"strangers" possessing property in the territory; further,
+the Assisans proclaimed their firm determination no
+longer to observe any orders given to them by the
+Commune of Perugia. This audacity was, however,
+soon checked. Perugia issued an order to the effect
+that these statutes, and these alone, which were decreed
+by herself were to be valid in Assisi, all others were
+worthless. Assisi therefore remained subject to Perugia
+till 1367, when Cardinal Albornoz who was engaged
+in recovering the allegiance of the Papal States, entered
+her gates. He was received with wild enthusiasm by
+the citizens, for they hailed him as their deliverer from
+the hated yoke of the Perugians. The Assisans had
+every reason to rejoice in this change of masters, as the
+Cardinal allowed them to govern their town like a free
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span>
+republic; he rebuilt the walls destroyed during the last
+siege, and the castle which had also suffered much from
+the Perugian soldiery. The people were delighted,
+and their artists were soon busily employed in painting
+the gilded arms of the church on gateways and on
+palaces.</p>
+
+<p>During his brief sojourn in Assisi the war-like
+Cardinal had found such peace as he had probably not
+often known before, and such was his love for the
+church of San Francesco that he added to it several
+chapels and chose a place for his tomb within its walls.
+He died at Viterbo; and only five months after the
+Assisans had welcomed him with such rejoicing, they
+went with torches and candles, to bear his dead body
+back to San Francesco, the Priors, says a chronicler,
+spending 145 florins upon the crimson gowns they
+bought for this occasion.</p>
+
+<p>Days of peace and liberty were short, and the
+Assisans were soon groaning beneath the enormous
+taxes laid upon them by the zealous ministers of the
+Pope. In 1376 their indignation rose to such a pitch
+that they broke into open rebellion, and joined in the
+war-cry against the Church, which was to be heard in
+other towns of Tuscany and Umbria. The citizens
+besieged the Legates in their palaces and ordered them
+with haughty words to depart; so seeing it was safer to
+obey, they returned to Rome without a word. "Because
+of their love for the holy Pontiff, whose servants
+they were, the Assisans used no violence towards them,"
+but having got their way with polite bows accompanied
+them safely beyond the city gates. But at this time,
+when all was war and conspiracy, there seemed no
+chance of a free life again for the people. No sooner
+had one tyrant been disposed of than another rose to
+take his place. When news of these events reached
+the Perugians they thought it a good opportunity to try
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span>
+and again get possession of the town, accordingly envoys
+were sent "just to put things in order" as they
+expressed it; but the Assisans shut the gates of the
+city in their faces and informed them that in future
+they intended to manage their own affairs. We cannot
+say that their endeavours were crowned with success,
+the nobles fought among themselves, while the mob
+was ever ready for any kind of novelty. It is related
+how in the year 1398 the Assisans changed their mind
+three times in one day as to who should be their lord.
+"<i>Evviva</i> the Church" was the first cry; the second,
+"<i>Evviva</i> the people of Perugia"; and lastly, "<i>Evviva</i>
+Messer Imbroglia," a roving adventurer who alternately
+fought for the Duke of Milan and the Pope, and finally
+entered Assisi at the head of a large cavalcade as
+Captain and Gonfalonier of the city.</p>
+
+<p>In the early centuries Assisi had bravely fought for
+her independence and held her own fairly well; but in
+the fourteenth century a sudden whirlwind swept across
+the country threatening to destroy the last remnant of
+her freedom. At this time the <i>condottieri</i> were busy
+carving out principalities for themselves, and one after
+another they marched through the land forcing the
+towns to bear their yoke. Assisi, not without a sharp
+struggle, fell a prey to Biordo Michelotti and Braccio
+Fortebraccio, successive despots of Perugia; and the
+citizens found themselves for the next twenty years
+in turn the vassals of Guidantonio of Montefeltro,
+of Sforza, and of the Pope. In 1442 Perugia was
+governed, in the name of the Pope, by Niccolò
+Piccinino, successor to Fortebraccio as the leader of
+the Bracceschi troops, and consequently a successor
+to the rivalry with Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan.
+Assisi, therefore, who had spontaneously given herself
+to Sforza, preferring the tyranny of strangers to the
+yoke of Perugia, was not likely to be favourably
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span>
+looked on by Piccinino, and sooner or later he determined
+to besiege her. But just at this time Perugia
+had made peace with all the world, and, delighted with
+this novel state of things, she rang the great bell of the
+Commune, lit beacon fires on the hills, and sent a
+special messenger to Assisi to proclaim the fact. The
+Assisans, with more courage than discretion, cursed
+the messenger and those who sent him, saying they had
+half a mind to kill him. "Return with this message,"
+they cried, "say unto those who sent thee, that they try
+to wipe us from the face of the earth and then send words
+of peace. But we will have war and only war." This
+insulting message was duly delivered to the astonished
+priors, and that night the beacon fires were extinguished.
+When news reached Assisi of the vast preparations in
+Perugia for war, these hasty words were regretted.
+Luckily Francesco Sforza sent the Assisans a good
+supply of troops, and every day they hoped for the
+arrival of his brother Alessandro.</p>
+
+<p>The month that followed was disastrous to Assisi,
+and the account of the war given us by the Perugian
+chronicler Graziani who took part in the siege, brings
+before us vividly the many stages she had to pass
+through before arriving at the calm, seraphic days of
+later years.</p>
+
+<p>By the end of October 1442, Niccolò Piccinino,
+alluded to always as <i>el Capitano</i>, arrived in the plain
+below Assisi with some 20,000 men, and took up his
+quarters in the Franciscan monastery of San Damiano.
+His first intention was to take the town by assault, but
+on surveying the fortifications and walls and the impregnable
+castle, he deemed it wiser to wait quietly
+until hunger should have damped the valour of the
+citizens. Help, however, came to him from another
+quarter. It is believed that a Franciscan friar, perhaps
+one of those with whom he lodged at San Damiano,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span>
+betrayed to him a way into the town by means of an
+unused drain.</p>
+
+<p>"On Wednesday, being the 28th day of November,
+the Captain's people entered Assisi by an underground
+drain, which, beginning below the smaller fortress
+towards the Carceri, enters Assisi near the market-place
+below the castle. There Pazaglia, Riccio da
+Castello, and Nicolo Brunoro, with more than 300
+men-at-arms, had seen to clearing the said sewer and
+cutting through some iron bars at the exit placed by
+the Assisans so that none might enter; and Pazaglia
+and his companions worked so well that they entered
+with all their people one by one. And when they had
+entered they emerged inside the walls, and advanced
+without any noise, holding close to the side of the said
+walls so as not to be seen, although the darkness of the
+night was great and drizzling rain was falling. But it
+happened that one of those within passed by with a
+lighted torch in his hand, and, hearing and seeing
+people, said several times: 'Who goes there.' At
+last answer was made to him: 'Friends, friends.'
+The bearer of the torch went but a little farther before
+he began to cry out: 'To arms, to arms. Awake,
+awake, for the enemy is within.' So a great tumult
+arose throughout the town. Then Pazaglia and his
+companions, finding they were discovered, mounted the
+walls and shouted to those outside: 'Ladders, ladders.
+Enter, enter.'"<a name="FNanchor_9" id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p>
+
+<p>With cries of "Braccio, Braccio," the captain led
+his men rapidly through the town, burning the gate,
+killing the citizens, and pillaging every palace as they
+passed along. When Alessandro Sforza who had
+stolen into Assisi the night before, "to comfort and
+encourage the citizens," found that the enemy was
+within he hurried with a few Assisan notables to take
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span>
+refuge in the castle. From the tower-girt hill he
+looked down upon the scene of carnage&mdash;and what a
+sight it was as pictured by Graziani!</p>
+
+<p>"The anguish, the noise, and the screams of women
+and children! God alone knows how fearful a thing
+it was to see them all dishevelled; some tearing their
+faces, some beating their breasts, one weeping for a
+father, one for a son, another for a brother, as, crying
+with loud voices, they prayed to God for death....
+But, in truth, these same Assisans did themselves
+much injury, greatly adding to their own trouble.
+They might have saved many more of their chattels
+had they trusted the Perugians, but rather did they
+trust the strangers, and this to their undoing, for the
+said strangers deceived them. Thus was proved the
+truth of that proverb which says: 'The offender
+never pardons.' Often aforetime had they offended
+the Commune of Perugia as we have seen. Even at
+this moment, when its forces were encamped outside
+Assisi, they constantly stood on their walls and hurled
+insulting and menacing words at the Perugians, defying
+and threatening them, whom for this reason peradventure
+they did not trust.... Also on the same day, while
+the city was being sacked, a multitude of women
+with their children and goods, took sanctuary in Santa
+Chiara; and when the captain passed and saw so many
+women and children sheltered there, he said to the
+women, especially to the nuns of Santa Chiara, that
+it was no longer a safe refuge for them, and if they
+would choose where they wished to go he would send
+them thither in safety. Then, naming to them all the
+neighbouring towns, he lastly offered to place them in
+safety in the city of Perugia. But when they heard
+the name of Perugia, first the nuns and then the other
+women replied, 'May Perugia be destroyed by fire.'
+And when the captain heard this answer, he immediately
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span>
+cried, 'Pillage, pillage!' Thus was everything
+plundered and ruined&mdash;the convent with the nuns,
+the women and the children, and much booty was
+there...."<a name="FNanchor_10" id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p>
+
+<p>Assisi, now the shell of her former self, seemed
+indeed a city of the dead. Through her deserted
+streets, running with the blood of the slain, echoed
+the sound of falling rafters and crumbling palaces,
+while bon-fires flamed on the piazza fed with the
+public archives by the destroying Perugians. Across
+the Tiber were to be seen the unhappy citizens being
+driven like droves of cattle by their captors up the
+hill to the city they hated. There the women, with
+their children clinging round their necks, were sold in
+the market-place as slaves, and exposed to the cruellest
+treatment by their masters. Even tiny children of four
+and five years old were sold; a maiden, we are told,
+fetched fifteen ducats, and many were bought, sometimes
+for the love of God, and sometimes as maidservants.
+Every day fresh booty was brought in, and
+the Perugians fought over the gold chalices, missals,
+and other treasures robbed from churches and convents;
+but these brought lower prices, for even Perugian consciences
+seem to have been troubled with scruples, and
+superstitious fear kept them from buying stolen church
+property. While the slave market was proceeding
+amidst the clanging of bells proclaiming the victory,
+the Priors of Perugia sat in their council hall of the
+great Palazzo Pubblico discussing how they could bring
+about the total annihilation of Assisi. The following
+curious letter was finally written, sealed, and sent to
+Niccolò Piccinino by five ambassadors who were to
+tempt him to do the deed with a bribe of 15,000
+ducats:</p>
+
+<p>"Your illustrious Signory being well aware how that
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span>
+city has ever been the scandal of this one, and that
+now the time has come to take this beam from out
+of our eyes, we pray and supplicate your illustrious
+Signory, in the name of this city and of the State,
+that it may please you to act in such wise that this
+your city shall never again have reason to fear her;
+and so, as appears good to all the community, it will
+be well to raze her to the ground, saving only the
+churches. And this will be the most singular among
+other favours that your illustrious Signory has ever
+done to us."<a name="FNanchor_11" id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></p>
+
+<p>"Trust in my words and trust in my deeds," replied
+Piccinino to the bearers of this truly mediæval letter;
+but, adds the chronicler, he refused his consent to their
+cowardly scheme for the destruction of the town. It
+is believed that he was acting upon orders received
+from Eugenius IV, who appears as the benevolent
+genius of Assisi, until, as the local historians tell us
+with rage, the Pope offered to sell them to the Commune
+of Perugia, when his clemency seems due solely
+to the fact that the papal coffers were sadly empty.
+Luckily the Perugians, somewhat in debt owing to
+the late war, were unable to pay the price, and Assisi
+thus escaped being given "like a lamb to the butcher,"
+while her enemy missed the chance "of removing that
+beam from out of her eye."</p>
+
+<p>From this time onward Assisi remained in the possession
+of the Church, and many of the Popes, touched
+by the miserable condition of the town, supplied money
+to rebuild its ruined walls and palaces, and thus induce
+the citizens to return and inhabit the desolate city.
+But hardly had the Assisans succeeded in getting back
+some kind of order and prosperity than new wars
+appeared to ruffle the onward flow of things. This
+time the danger came from within, and in Assisi, as
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span>
+in so many of the cities of Italy, it was the feud between
+the nobles themselves that drenched the streets
+with blood and crushed the struggles of a people
+whose cries for liberty were now only faintly heard.
+All sank beneath the heavy hand of the despot. The
+Perugian citizens were being tyrannised over by the
+powerful family of the Baglioni, whose name brings
+up a picture of crime and bloodshed that has hardly
+been equalled in any town in Italy.<a name="FNanchor_12" id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> In Assisi the
+balance of power lay between the two families of
+Fiumi and Nepis, who, in the irregular fashion of the
+time, alternately ruled the city in opposition to the
+legal sovereignty of the Papacy. The city was sharply
+divided into the Upper town, where the Nepis had
+their palaces near the castle and San Rufino, and the
+Lower town, inhabited entirely by the Fiumi and
+their adherents, which clustered round the church of
+Santa Chiara and down to San Francesco. These
+two families sought perpetually to outshine each other,
+and such was the reputation they gained among the
+people in the country round that even the Perugian
+chroniclers speak of them as "most cultured and
+splendid citizens," praising their horsemanship and
+the magnificence of their dress. So great was the
+rivalry between the members of the two families
+Fiumi and Nepis that, when they met in the piazza
+of Assisi where the nobles often walked in the evening,
+they would provoke each other with scornful looks
+and words, and often this was a signal for a skirmish.
+The <i>bravi</i> would gather round them, and in an instant
+the whole town be roused to arms. After a sharp
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span>
+fight one party was driven to retire to its strongholds
+in the open country, while the victorious nobles seized
+the reins of government, and the weary citizens sank
+beneath the rule of the despots. Assisi presented a
+most melancholy spectacle at the end of one of these
+encounters. Most of the dwellings of the exiled nobles
+lay in ruins, the churches were shut in consequence of
+the perpetual bloodshed, and the palaces, barred and
+chained, with the gratings drawn up before the entrance,
+seemed to be inhabited by no living being. Franciscan
+friars stole along the streets on their errands of mercy
+among the distressed citizens, who, besides the horrors
+of the city feuds, suffered from the pestilence and
+famine which decimated nearly all the towns of Italy
+at this period. But this death-like silence within the
+town was never of long duration. The exiled party,
+ever on the alert to regain possession of their homes,
+would creep into the town at some unguarded moment
+and once more stir a people to fight who were beginning
+to chafe beneath the irksome rule of the rival despots.</p>
+
+<p>A climax of evils came when, in addition to a
+hundred other ills, the Baglioni of Perugia took upon
+themselves to interfere.</p>
+
+<p>In 1494 we find the Fiumi and the Nepis living
+peaceably in their palaces, dividing the power in Assisi,
+until at last the hot-headed Fiumi grew weary of the
+even balance of things, and determined at one stroke
+to rid themselves of every foe. In open combat they
+had attempted this and failed, so a treacherous plot
+was hatched. Jacopo Fiumi, head of the house, and
+his brother Alessandro, persuaded their friends, the
+Priors of the city, to prepare a great banquet in the
+Communal Palace and invite all the members of the
+rival family to be present. Unarmed, and not dreaming
+of danger, the Nepis entered the big hall. No
+sooner had they thrown off their cloaks than the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span>
+Fiumi rushed upon them with drawn swords and
+knives. Angered by such wanton treachery, the
+citizens drove the murderers from the city; and the
+Priors, protected by the darkness of the night, fled
+into the open country to seek a refuge in some neighbouring
+town.</p>
+
+<p>Now this event, like many others, might have subsided
+and been followed by a period of peace, only it
+happened that the Baglioni were allies of the Nepis
+and ready to avenge them in Assisi. They had, moreover,
+old scores to settle with Jacopo Fiumi, who,
+Matarazzo tells us, in pained surprise, "was a most
+cruel enemy of the house of Baglioni and of every
+Perugian, and studied day and night how he might
+injure those of Perugia, so that he was the cause of
+much trouble to the magnificent house of Baglioni."<a name="FNanchor_13" id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>
+This was therefore a good opportunity for the Baglioni
+to lay siege to Assisi, and perpetual skirmishes took
+place in the plain, which sapped the life-blood of the
+citizens and laid waste the Umbrian country for many
+miles around. The peasants, whose grain had been
+trampled down by the Baglioni, were driven half-naked
+into the woods, and watched the high roads from
+the heights above Assisi like birds of prey, swooping
+down to rob or kill travellers passing by. Badgers,
+wolves, and foxes roamed unmolested in the plain, and
+fed upon the unburied bodies of the murdered travellers
+and of those who fell in battle; while, in the dead of
+night, the friars of the Portiuncula stole out to bury
+what bones the wild beasts had left. Things had come
+to such a pass that the Assisans, as we are told, knew
+not what to say or do, so many of their number were
+dead or taken captive and the enemy was ever at their
+gates. Giovan Paolo, mounted on his black charger,
+"which did not run but flew," led the Perugians to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span>
+storm the town and draw the citizens out to battle.
+He was one of the fiercest of the Baglioni brood
+and a famous soldier, and yet it was in vain he sought
+to inspire the Assisans with fear. "Indeed," says
+Matarazzo, "each one proved himself valiant on either
+side; for the Assisans had become warlike and inured
+to arms, and they were all iniquitous and desperate."<a name="FNanchor_14" id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>
+The foes were of equal strength and courage, and the
+war, which had already lasted three years, seemed
+likely to have no end. But one day the Assisans,
+watching from their ramparts, saw a large squadron
+of soldiers hurrying from Perugia to the aid of the
+Baglioni, and they began to ring the city bells as a
+signal that the moment had come for the final stand.
+Those who were skirmishing in the plain against
+Giovan Paolo began to lose heart when they heard
+the clanging of the bells, and the Perugians, perceiving
+their advantage, took new courage, so that "each one
+became as a lion." More than sixty Assisans were
+slain that day, while the prisoners suffered cruelly under
+the vengeance of those who took this opportunity of
+remembering offences of past years. "And thus did
+his lordship, the magnificent Giovan Paolo, return
+victorious and joyful from this great and dangerous
+battle."<a name="FNanchor_15" id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p>
+
+<p>Once the gates of Assisi were forced open, the
+Baglioni and their <i>bravi</i> scoured the streets from end
+to end, killing all they encountered, and dragging from
+the churches the poor women who sought shelter and
+protection. The blood-thirsty brood did not even
+respect the Church of San Francesco; and the friars,
+in a letter to their patron Guidobaldo, Duke of
+Urbino, complain most bitterly of the crimes committed
+within the sacred edifice, even on the very
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span>
+steps of the altar. "The poor city of Assisi," the
+letter says, "has known only sorrow through the perpetual
+raids of the Baglioni, whose many crimes would
+be condemned even by the infidel Turks. They rebel
+against the holy Pontiff, and such is their ferocity that
+they have set fire to the gates of the city&mdash;even unto
+that of the Basilica of San Francesco. They do not
+shudder to murder men, cook their flesh, and give it
+to the relations of the slain to eat in their prison
+dungeons."<a name="FNanchor_16" id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> Matarazzo also dwells on the sad conditions
+of Assisi during her final struggle for independence.
+"So great was the pestilence and the famine
+within the walls that human tongue could not describe
+it, for great woe there was, and such scarcity and
+penury in Assisi as had never been known. I myself
+have talked to men who were in Assisi at that time,
+and who, on remembering those days of famine, pestilence,
+and war were bathed in tears; and, if the subject
+had come up a thousand times in a day, a thousand
+times would they have wept bitterly, so dark was the
+memory thereof. Not only did they weep, but those
+also who listened to them, for they would recount
+how they wandered by the walls of the town, and
+down to the hamlets, and in every place searching for
+herbs to eat; and how, forced by hunger, they ate all
+manner of cooked herbs, and many people sustained
+themselves with three or four cooked nuts dipped in
+wine, and with this they made good cheer."<a name="FNanchor_17" id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p>
+
+<p>In reading the terrible chronicle of these years, one
+asks, "How did any life survive in the face of such
+ghastly suffering?" The strange fact remains that life
+not only survived, but that the Assisans even flourished
+during the period, and, like half-drowned birds, who,
+rising to the surface, bask for a while in the sunshine and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span>
+then spread their wings for a fresh flight, they too arose
+and prospered. But the time was drawing near when
+these continual efforts were no longer needed. The
+rival factions had reached the summit of their savage
+strength, and the city despots were soon to be swept
+from the land by the whirlwind they themselves had
+raised.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1500, during one awful night of carnage
+at Perugia, the Baglioni were nearly all murdered
+through the treachery of some of their own family.
+The manner in which the clansmen sought out their
+victims and stabbed them in their sleep, driving their
+teeth into their hearts in savage fury, sent a thrill of
+horror throughout Italy. The downfall of this powerful
+house affected the destiny of Assisi, for Perugia
+was brought under the immediate dominion of the
+church, and with the advent of Paul III, she lost her
+independence, which she never again recovered. A
+mighty fortress was erected on the site of the Baglioni
+palaces, and the significant words "<i>Ad coercendam
+Perusinorum audacam</i>" were inscribed upon its walls.
+The Farnese Pope meant to warn, not only the citizens
+of that proud city which he had brought so successfully
+within his net, but also the Assisans and the other
+Umbrians who, with anxious eyes, were watching the
+storms that wrecked Perugia.</p>
+
+<p>With this new order of things the last flicker of
+mediæval liberty was being extinguished, and when
+Paul III, ordered the cannons from the castle of
+Assisi to be transferred to his new fortress at Perugia,
+the Assisans felt that a crisis had been reached and
+that henceforth they must be guided by the menacing
+finger of an indomitable pontiff. One last effort she
+did indeed make to save her dignity: she begged to be
+governed independently of her old rival Perugia. To
+this the Pope agreed, and a Papal Legate came with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span>
+great pomp and was met outside the gates by the Priors,
+nobles, and citizens of Assisi. With that great Farnese
+fortress looming in the distance they were forced to
+make some show of gladness as they followed him in
+solemn procession through the town and up the steep
+hill to the Rocca Maggiore. Here the Legate walked
+round the ramparts and through the spacious halls of
+the castle, taking possession of all in the name of the
+Church of Rome. Then the Castellano knelt down
+before him, and as he handed the keys over to his
+keeping, the history of war and strife in Assisi abruptly
+closed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo053" id="illo053"></a>
+<img src="images/illus053.jpg" width="261" height="264" alt="THE ARMS OF ASSISI" />
+<p class="caption">THE ARMS OF ASSISI</p>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter p6"><a name="illo054" id="illo054"></a>
+<img src="images/illus054.jpg" width="550" height="390" alt="ASSISI IN THE TIME OF ST. FRANCIS" />
+<p class="caption">ASSISI IN THE TIME OF ST. FRANCIS</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="p6">
+<img src="images/illus055_a.jpg" width="144" height="198" alt=""  class="floatl" />
+<img src="images/illus055_b.jpg" width="325" height="198" alt="O" class="floatl" />
+<img src="images/illus055_c.jpg" width="144" height="100" alt=""  class="floatl" />
+</p>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">CHAPTER II</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span></p>
+<p class="center b175"><i>The Umbrian Prophet</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>"Fra santi il pui santo, e tra i peccatori quasi
+uno di loro."&mdash;Celano. <i>Vita</i> I. cap. xxix.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="p6">ften while reading
+the Italian
+chroniclers we forget
+that a life of
+chivalry, song,
+tournament, and
+pagan pleasure-making
+was passed
+in a mediæval town even while war,
+pestilence, and famine cast a settled
+gloom on every home. Lazar-houses stood
+at the gates of the city while sumptuous
+feasts were spread in the banqueting halls
+of palaces. Men rebelled against the ugliness and
+squalor produced by a hundred ills that swept over
+Italy during the twelfth century,<a name="FNanchor_18" id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> and so it came
+about that in the darkest hours of a city's history,
+scenes of maddest revelry were enacted. At this
+period were founded the Brigate Amorose, or Companies
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span>
+of young nobles, whose one aim in life was
+amusement. There were few towns in Italy, however
+small, in which these gay youths did not organise
+magnificent sports and tournaments<a name="FNanchor_19" id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> to which
+the ladies came in gowns of rich brocades or "fair
+velvet," their tresses garlanded with precious jewels
+and flowers. Or knights, ladies, and other folk
+would meet in the piazzas and pass the summer evenings
+with</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="o1">"Provençal songs and dances that surpass;</p>
+<p>And quaint French mummings: and through hollow brass</p>
+<p>A sound of German music in the air."<a name="FNanchor_20" id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a></p>
+</div>
+<p>Late at night after a splendid banquet, the nobles
+wandered through the streets singing as they followed
+the lead of one chosen by themselves, whom they
+called the Lord of Love. Sometimes their ranks
+were swelled by passing troubadours from Provence
+who sang of the feats of Charlemagne and of King
+Arthur and his knights. For it was the time when
+Bernard de Ventadour was singing some of his sweetest
+love lyrics, and people were alternately laughing at the
+whimsicalities of Pierre Vidal and weeping at the tender
+pathos of his poems.<a name="FNanchor_21" id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> Those who listened to these
+songsters were, for the moment, deceived into thinking
+life was full of love and mirth, and sorrow only touched
+them when their lady frowned. The music of Provence
+found a way across the Alps to the feudal courts
+of Este and Ferrara, to Verona, and later, southwards
+to Sicily, where Frederick the Great was king. It
+came even to the towns which lay hidden in the folds
+of the Umbrian mountains, and some of its sweetest
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span>
+strains were echoed back again from Assisi. Her
+troubadour was Francis Bernardone, the rich merchant's
+son, leader of the young nobles who, in their carousals,
+named him Lord of Love, and placed the kingly
+sceptre in his hand as he walked at their head through
+the streets at night, rousing the sleepy Assisan burghers
+with wild bursts of song.</p>
+
+<p>Francis had learned the Provençal language from his
+mother, Madonna Pica, whom Pietro Bernardone<a name="FNanchor_22" id="FNanchor_22" href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> is
+said to have met while journeying from castle to castle
+in Provence, tempting the ladies to buy his merchandise
+as he told them news of Italy. The early writers do
+not mention her nationality, they only allude to her as
+<i>Madonna</i>, which might imply that she was of noble
+birth; the later legend, which says that she was of the
+family of the counts of Bourlemont, is without foundation.
+We know she was a good and tender mother to
+Francis, who was left mostly in her charge, as Pietro
+Bernardone was so often absent in France. She taught
+him to love the world of romance and chivalry peopled
+by the heroes of the troubadours, and there he found
+an escape from the gloom that enveloped Assisi during
+those early days of warfare which were enough to
+sadden that joyous nature rarely found among saints.
+Celano gives a graphic picture of the temptations to
+which the youths of the middle ages were exposed,
+even in infancy in their own homes. This danger
+Francis escaped, but the companions with whom he
+spent the first twenty years of his life in gay living had
+not been so well guarded, and Francis was not slow to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span>
+feel the influence of his time. We must remember
+that the accounts we have of him were written under
+the papal eye, and it is patent that both as sinner and
+as saint he took a leading part.</p>
+
+<p>"He was always first among his equals in all
+vanities," says Celano, "the first instigator of evil, and
+behind none in foolishness, so that he drew upon himself
+the attention of the public by vain-glorious extravagance,
+in which he stood foremost. He was not
+chary of jokes, ridicule, light sayings, evil-speaking,
+singing, and in the wearing of soft and fine clothes;
+being very rich he spent freely, being less desirous of
+accumulating wealth than of dissipating his substance;
+clever at trafficking, but too vain to prevent others
+from spending what was his: withal a man of pleasant
+manners, facile and courteous even to his own disadvantage;
+for this reason, therefore, many, through his fault,
+became evil-doers and promoters of scandal. Thus,
+surrounded by many worthless companions, triumphantly
+and scornfully he went upon his way."<a name="FNanchor_23" id="FNanchor_23" href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></p>
+
+<p>His early years passed away in feasting and singing
+with an occasional journey to a neighbouring town to sell
+the Bernardone wares, until 1202 when war broke out
+between Perugia and Assisi, and the big bell of the
+cathedral called the citizens to arms in the Piazza della
+Minerva. Men gathered round their captain, while
+from the windows of every house women gesticulated
+wildly, almost drowning the clank of armour and the
+tramp of horses by their shrill screams. Francis, on a
+magnificent charger, rode out of the city gates abreast
+with the nobles of Assisi, filling the bourgeois heart of
+Pietro with delight, that a son of his should be thus
+honoured. It was a beautiful sight to see the communal
+armies winding down to the plain, one coming
+from the western hill, the other from the southern, to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span>
+match their strength by the Tiber. They were "troops
+of knights, noble in face and form, dazzling in crest
+and shield; horse and man one labyrinth of quaint
+colour and gleaming light&mdash;the purple, and silver, and
+scarlet fringes flowing over the strong limbs and clashing
+mail like sea waves over rocks at sunset."<a name="FNanchor_24" id="FNanchor_24" href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Assisans were vanquished: no details of the
+fight have come down to us, but we know that the
+nobles lay in a Perugian prison for a year and that it
+was Francis who cheered them, often astonishing them
+with his wild spirits. They told him he was mad to
+dance so gaily in a prison, but nothing saddened him
+in those days.</p>
+
+<p>When peace was at last made, with hard terms for
+Assisi, the prisoners returned home and threw themselves
+with renewed vigour into their former pursuit of
+pleasure, and soon afterwards Francis fell ill of a fever
+which brought him near the grave. Face to face with
+death he stood a while, and the result of the danger he
+had passed through worked an extraordinary change in
+his nature. His recovery was in reality a return to a
+new life, both of body and soul. Celano tells us that
+Francis "being somewhat stronger and able to walk
+about the house leaning on a stick, in order to complete
+his restoration to health one day went forth and
+with unusual eagerness gazed at the vast extent of
+country which lay before him; yet neither the charm
+of the vineyards or of aught that is pleasant to look on,
+were of any consolation to him."<a name="FNanchor_25" id="FNanchor_25" href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a></p>
+
+<p>It was probably from the Porta Nuova, close to
+where the church of Santa Chiara now stands, that he
+looked out on the Umbrian country he loved so well.
+Here Mount Subasio rises grey and bleak above the
+olive groves which slope gradually down to the valley
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span>
+where a white road leads past Spello to Foligno in the
+plain and on to Spoleto high up in the mountain gorge
+which brings the valley to a close. All these towns
+were dear and familiar to Francis. He had watched
+them in spring time when the young corn was ripening
+near their walls and the children came out to look for
+the sweet scented narcissi. While wandering on the
+hill sides at dawn he had seen the brown roofs warmed
+by the first rays of the sun and each window twinkle
+like so many eyes across the plain in answer to the
+light. But as he looked now upon the same scene a
+great sadness came over him, and we are told he wondered
+at the sudden inward change. That hour in the
+smiling Umbrian landscape was the most solitary he
+ever experienced; ill and weak he awoke to the
+emptiness of the life he had hitherto led, and in the
+bitterness of his soul he did not know where to turn
+for comfort.<a name="FNanchor_26" id="FNanchor_26" href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a></p>
+
+<p>It is a remarkable fact that Celano does not from
+this moment picture Francis as an aureoled saint, but
+allows us to realise the many difficulties he had to overcome
+before he stands once more among the vineyards
+with a song of praise upon his lips, and a look of victory
+in his eyes.</p>
+
+<p>Although Francis began to "despise those things he
+had formerly held dear," he was not altogether freed
+from the bonds of vanity, nor had he "thrown off the
+yoke of servitude"; for when restored to health he
+was full of ambitious projects to make a great career
+for himself in the world. The realisation of his dreams
+seemed indeed near, as it happened at this time that a
+noble knight of Assisi was preparing to join the army
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span>
+of Gauthier de Brienne, then fighting the battles of
+Pope Innocent III, in Apulia. Francis, "greedy of
+glory," determined to accompany the knight to the
+wars, and began to prepare for the journey with more
+than usual magnificence. He was all impatience to
+start, and his mind was full of the expedition when he
+had a dream which filled him with hope. In lieu of
+the bales of silk in his father's warehouse, stood saddles,
+shields, and lances, all marked with the red cross, and
+as he marvelled at the sight a voice told him those
+arms were intended for himself and his soldiers. Rising
+next morning full of ambitious plans after such an omen
+of good fortune, he mounted his charger and rode
+through the town bidding farewell to his friends. He
+smiled on all and seemed so light of heart that they
+pressed round asking what made him so merry.
+"I shall yet be a great prince," he answered, and he
+passed out of the Porta Nuova, where but a short while
+before he had stood looking down so sadly on the
+valley he was now to traverse as an armoured knight.
+At Spoleto he had a return of intermittent fever, and
+while chafing at the delay a voice called to him:
+"Francis, who can do the most good, the master or
+the servant?"</p>
+
+<p>"The master," answered Francis, not in the least
+astonished by the mysterious question.</p>
+
+<p>"Why then dost thou leave the master for the servant,
+and the prince for the follower? Return to thy
+country, there shalt thou be told what to do; for thou
+hast mistaken the meaning and wrongly interpreted the
+vision sent thee by God."</p>
+
+<p>Next morning, leaving the knight to continue the
+journey alone, he mounted his horse and returned to
+Assisi, where he was doubtless received with disappointment
+by his parents, and with gibes by the citizens who
+had listened to his boasts of future greatness. Once
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span>
+again he went back to work in his father's shop, but
+now when the young nobles called to him to join in
+their revels he went listlessly, often escaping from their
+midst to wander alone in the fields or pass long hours
+praying in a grotto near the city. One day his friends,
+in despair at his frequent absences, gave a grand banquet,
+making him "King of the feast." He delighted them
+all with fitful bursts of merry wit, but at last when the
+revellers rushed out into the night to roam about the
+town till dawn, Francis fell back from the gay throng,
+and stood gazing up at the calm Umbrian sky decked
+in all its splendour of myriad stars. When the others
+returned in search of their leader, they, wondering at
+the change that had come over the wildest spirit of
+Assisi, assailed him with questions. "Are you thinking
+of marrying, Francis," cried one jester, and amidst
+the laughter of all came his quiet answer: "Yes, a
+wife more noble and more beautiful than ye have ever
+seen; she will outshine all others in beauty and in
+wisdom." Already the image of the Lady Poverty
+had visited him, and enamoured like a very troubadour
+he composed songs in her honour as he walked in the
+woods near Assisi.</p>
+
+<p>The kind heart of Francis had always been touched
+at the sight of the poor lepers, who, exiled from the
+companionship of their fellow creatures, lived in a lazar-house
+on the plain, about a mile from the town. But his
+compassion for their misery was mingled with a strong
+feeling of repugnance, so that he had always shunned
+these wretched outcasts. "When I was in the bondage
+of sin," he tells us in his will, "it was bitter to me,
+and loathsome to see, and loke uppon persouny enfect
+with leopre; but that blessed Lord broughte me amonge
+them, and I did mercy with them, and departing from
+them, what before semyd bittre and lothesomme was
+turned and changed to me in great sweetnesse and comfort
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span>
+both of body and of soule, and afterwards in this
+state I stode and abode a lytle while, and then I lefte
+and forsooke the worldly lyf."<a name="FNanchor_27" id="FNanchor_27" href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a></p>
+
+<p>Pietro Bernardone now saw his son, clothed in rags,
+his face pinched and white from long vigils spent in
+prayer, going forth on errands of mercy, jeered at by
+the citizens, pelted with stones and filth by the children.
+There were many storms in the Bernardone household
+which the gentle Pica was unable to quell; and when
+finally Francis began to throw his father's money
+among the poor in the same regal manner in which
+he had once spent it among his boon companions, Bernardone
+could bear it no longer, and drove his son
+from the house. When they met he cursed him, and
+the family bonds thus severed were never again renewed.</p>
+
+<p>Francis was still like a pilgrim uncertain of his goal,
+or like a man standing before a heavy burden which
+he feels unable to lift. What was he to do with his
+life&mdash;how could he help the poor and suffering&mdash;were
+questions he asked himself over and over again as he
+vainly sought for an anchor in the troubled seas. The
+answer came to him one day as he was attending mass
+at the chapel of the Portiuncula on the feast of St.
+Matthew the apostle, in the year 1209.</p>
+
+<p>"And as ye go, preach, saying, The kingdom of
+heaven is at hand. Heal the sick, cleanse the lepers,
+raise the dead, cast out devils: freely ye have received,
+freely give. Provide neither gold, nor silver, nor brass
+in your purses, nor scrip for your journey, neither two
+coats, neither shoes, nor yet staves" ... read the
+priest from the gospel of the day. Those simple words
+were a revelation to Francis, who, when mass was over,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span>
+ran out into the woods, and, with only the birds in
+the oak trees to witness his strange interpretation of
+the gospel, threw away his shoes, wallet, staff and
+well-filled purse. "This is what I desired; behold,
+here is what I searched for and am burning to perform,"
+he cried, in the delirium of his new-found
+joy.</p>
+
+<p>If the Assisans had been astonished at his former
+eccentricities, as they termed his deeds of charity, they
+were yet more amazed to see him now, clothed in a
+coarse habit, with a knotted cord round his waist, and
+with bare feet, begging his bread from door to door.
+After a little while they grew accustomed to the
+hurrying figure of the young mendicant as he passed
+rapidly down the street greeting all he met with the
+salutation of "Our Lord give thee His peace." The
+words brought something new and strange into men's
+hearts, and those who had scoffed at him most drew
+near to learn the secret of their charm. The first to
+be touched by the simplicity and joyous saintliness of
+Francis was Bernardo di Quintevalle, a wealthy noble of
+Assisi, who had known him as King among the young
+Assisan revellers, and watched with astonishment his
+complete renouncement of the world. He determined
+to join Francis in ministering to the lepers, and began
+his new mode of life by selling all his possessions for
+the benefit of the poor. His conversion created a considerable
+stir in the town; and people had not ceased to
+gossip on the subject when another well-known citizen,
+Pietro de Catanio, a canon of the cathedral, also offered
+his services at the lazar-house. A few days later a
+labourer named Egidio "beholding how those noble
+knights of Assisi despised the world, so that the whole
+country stood amazed," came in search of Francis to
+beg him to take him as one of his companions. Francis
+met him at the entrance of the wood by the lazar hospital,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span>
+and gazing on the devout aspect of Egidio,
+answered and said: "Brother most dear, God has
+shown Himself exceeding gracious unto thee. If the
+Emperor were to come to Assisi and desire to make a
+certain citizen his knight or private chamberlain, ought
+not such a one to be exceeding glad? How much
+more oughtest thou not to rejoice that God hath chosen
+thee out to be His knight and well-beloved servant,
+to observe the perfection of the Holy Gospel"?<a name="FNanchor_28" id="FNanchor_28" href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a>
+and, taking him by the hand, he brought him to the
+hut which was their home. Here a merchant's son,
+a learned churchman, and a rich nobleman, welcomed
+an Assisan labourer in their midst with the simple
+brotherly love which was to be the keynote of the
+franciscan order. After the reception of Egidio we
+are told that Francis went with him to the Marches
+of Ancona, "singing glorious praises of the Lord of
+heaven and earth" as they travelled along the dusty
+roads. Albeit Francis did not preach publicly to the
+people, yet as he went by the way he admonished and
+corrected the men-folk and the women-folk, saying
+lovingly to them these simple words: "Love and fear
+God, and do fit penance for your sins." And Egidio
+would say: "Do what this my spiritual Father saith
+unto you, for he speaketh right well."</p>
+
+<p>It was not long before the fame of Francis drew
+quite a little community of brethren to the tiny hut in
+the plain, and the question naturally occurs&mdash;Did
+Francis plan out the creation of an order when he
+gathered men around him? It was so natural a thing
+for disciples to follow him that his biographers simply
+note it as a fact, and, not being given to speculation in
+those days, pass on to other events. We may be
+allowed to conjecture that the same ambition which
+some years before had stirred his longing to be a great
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span>
+prince was not dead, only his dreams were to be
+realised in another sphere of action. The qualities
+which made him the brilliant leader among the gay
+nobles of Assisi were now turned into another channel&mdash;he
+became a prince among saints, a controller of
+men's destinies.</p>
+
+<p>Varied indeed was the band of Francis' disciples,
+and it is interesting to see how each one was allowed
+to follow the bent of his nature. In this complete
+sympathy with character lay one of the secrets of his
+power. Egidio, who in the world had been a labourer,
+was encouraged by his master to continue his life in the
+open country. He gathered in the olives for the peasants,
+helped them with their vintage, and when the
+corn was being cut would glean the ears; but if anyone
+offered him a handful of grain, he remarked: "My
+brother, I have no granary wherein to store it."
+Usually he gave away what he had gleaned to the
+poor, so that he brought little food back to the convent.
+Always ready to turn his hand to every job, one day
+we find Egidio beating a walnut tree for a proprietor
+who could find none to do the work because the tree
+was so tall. But he set himself gaily to the task, and
+having made the sign of the Cross, "with great fear
+climbed up the walnut tree and beat it. The share that
+fell to him was so large that he could not carry it in his
+tunic, so taking off his habit he tied the sleeves and the
+hood together and made a sack of it."<a name="FNanchor_29" id="FNanchor_29" href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> With this load
+on his back he returned towards the convent, but on
+the way distributed all the nuts to the poor. Egidio
+remains the ideal type of the franciscan friar. "He
+is a Knight of my Round Table," said Francis one
+day as he recounted some new adventure which had
+befallen the intrepid brother, who was always journeying
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span>
+to some southern town, and is said even to have
+visited the Holy Land.<a name="FNanchor_30" id="FNanchor_30" href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a></p>
+
+<p>A very different man, drawn by the magic influence
+of Francis into the Order at the beginning of its fame
+in 1211, was Elias Buonbarone, the son of a Bolognese
+mattress-maker who had for some time been settled in
+Assisi. He is always represented by the biographers
+as haughty, overbearing, and fond of controlling the
+actions of others; in fact a strong contrast to the meek
+brother Leo whom Francis lovingly named the little
+lamb of God. But if lacking in saintly qualities, Elias
+possessed a remarkable mind and determination of
+character which enabled him afterwards to play a
+considerable part in the history of his times. He
+embodies the later franciscan spirit which grew up
+after the saint's death, and of which we shall treat in
+another chapter.</p>
+
+<p>When Francis found himself surrounded by some
+dozen followers, all anxious to obey his wishes to the
+very letter and waiting only to be sent hither and thither
+as he commanded, it became necessary to write down
+some rule of life. In simple words he enjoined all to
+live according to the precepts of the Gospel, "and
+they that came to reseyve this forme or manner of
+lyvynge departyd and distributed that they had and
+myght haue too powre people. And we were content
+with oone coote pesyd bothe within forthe and without
+forthe with oone corde and a femorall, and we wolde
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span>
+not haue ony more. Our dyvyne servyse the clerkis
+saide as other clerkis, and the lay bretherne said ther
+Pater noster. And we fulle gladly dwelt and taried in
+pour deserte and desolat churchys, and we were contente
+to be taken as ideotis and foolys of every man, and I
+did exercyse my self in bodily laboure. And I wille
+laboure, and yt ys my wille surely and steadfastely that
+alle the bretherne occupie and exercyse themself in
+laboure, and in such occupation and laboure as belongeth
+to honeste. And those that have no occupation
+to exercyse themself with alle, shall lerne not for
+covetis to resceyve the price or hier for their laboure,
+but for to give good example and eschewe and put
+away idlenesse. When we wer not satisfied nor recompensied
+for our laboure, we went and had recourse
+to the lord of oure Lorde, askynge almes from dore to
+dore. Our Lorde by reualation tawghte me to say
+this maner of salutation, 'Our Lorde give to thee His
+peace.'"<a name="FNanchor_31" id="FNanchor_31" href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a></p>
+
+<p>The first rule which Francis and his companions
+took in the summer of 1210 to be confirmed by Innocent
+III, has not come down to us. In Rome they
+fortunately met the bishop of Assisi, who promised to
+obtain for them, through one of the Cardinals, an interview
+with the Pope. A legend tells us how Innocent,
+wrapt in deep meditation, was pacing with solemn step
+the terrace of the Lateran, when this strange company
+of ragged, bare-footed, dusty men was ushered into his
+presence. He looked at them in surprise, his lip
+curling in disdain as Francis stepped forward to make
+his request. From an Umbrian pilgrim he heard for
+the first time that power was not the greatest good in
+life while in poverty lay both peace and joy, and the
+great pope stood amazed at the new doctrine. "Who
+can live without temporal possessions," sarcastically
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span>
+asked the Cardinals who had been trained in the spirit
+of Innocent, and the "Penitents of Assisi" bowed
+their heads, and drawing their hoods forward, went
+sorrowfully out of the pope's presence amid the jeers of
+his court. That night Innocent had a dream in which
+he saw the church of St John Lateran about to fall,
+and its tottering walls were supported on the shoulders
+of a man whom he recognised as the spokesman of the
+band of Umbrians he had so hastily dismissed. Full
+of strange visions the pope sent for Francis, who repeated
+his desire to have his rule confirmed. "My
+son," said Innocent, "your rule of life seems to us
+most hard and bitter, but although we do not doubt
+your fervour we must consider whether the road is not
+too hard a one for those who are to follow thee."
+Francis, with ready wit, answered these objections by
+a tale he invented for the purpose. "A beautiful
+but poor girl lived in a desert, and a great king, seeing
+her beauty, wished to take her to wife, thinking by her
+to have fine children. The marriage having taken
+place, many sons were born, and when they were
+grown up their mother thus spoke to them: 'My sons
+be not ashamed, for you are sons of the king; go
+therefore to his court and he will cause all that is
+needful to be given to you.' And when they came,
+the king, observing their beauty and seeing in them his
+own likeness and image, said: 'Whose sons are you?'
+And they answered; 'sons of a poor woman who lived
+in the desert.' So with great joy the king embraced
+them, saying: 'Be not afraid, for you are my sons, and
+when strangers eat at my table how much more right
+have you to eat who are my legitimate sons?' The
+king then ordered the said woman to send all sons born
+of her to be nourished at his court." "Oh, Messer,"
+cried Francis, "I am that poor woman, beloved of
+God, and made beautiful through His mercy, by whom
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span>
+he was pleased to generate legitimate sons. And the
+King said to me that he will feed all the sons born of
+me, for as He feeds strangers so He may well feed His
+own."</p>
+
+<p>Thus did Francis describe his Lady Poverty, and
+boldly hint that the crimson-robed princes of the Church
+and the prelates of the Papal Court had strayed from
+the teaching of the Gospel.</p>
+
+<p>Who can say whether Innocent, watching with keen
+eyes the earnest face of the Umbrian teacher, began to
+realise the power such a man might have in restoring
+to the church some of its lost purity, and was planning
+how to yoke him to his service. This at least we
+know, that before Francis and his companions left
+Rome they received the tonsure which marked them
+as the Church's own, and with blessings and promises
+of protection Innocent sent this new and strange militia
+throughout the length and breadth of Italy to fight his
+spiritual battles. The simplicity and the love of
+Francis had conquered the Pope, and to the end continued
+to triumph over every difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the desire of Francis and his companions
+to return to Assisi with the good news, that they forgot
+to eat on the way and arrived exhausted in the valley
+of Spoleto, though still singing aloud for the joy in
+their hearts. Somewhere near Orte they found an
+Etruscan tomb&mdash;a delightful retreat for prayer. It so
+pleased Francis that a strong temptation came over him
+to abandon all idea of preaching and lead a hermit's
+life. For there was that in his nature which drew him
+into the deep solitude of the woods, and might have
+kept him away from men and the work that was before
+him. The battle in his soul waged fiercely as he
+stood upon the mountain side looking up the valley
+towards Assisi, but his heart went out to the people
+who dwelt there, and the strong impulse he had to help
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span>
+those who suffered and needed him won the day. The
+die was cast; he left his Etruscan retreat to take up once
+more the burden, and thus it was that, in the words of
+Matthew Arnold: "He brought religion to the people.
+He founded the most popular body of ministers of
+religion that has ever existed in the church. He transformed
+monachism by uprooting the stationary monk,
+delivering him from the bondage of property, and sending
+him, as a mendicant friar, to be a stranger and sojourner;
+not in the wilderness, but in the most crowded
+haunts of men, to console them, and to do them
+good."</p>
+
+<p>When Francis began his mission among the people
+of Italy it was the custom for only the bishops to preach;
+but as they lived in baronial splendour, enjoying the
+present, and amassing money which they extorted from
+their poor parishioners to leave to their families, they
+had little time to attend to spiritual duties. The people
+being therefore left much to their own devices, sank
+ever deeper into ignorance, sin, and superstition. They
+saw religion only from afar until Francis appeared
+"like a star shining in the darkness of the night" to
+bring to them the messages of peace and love. He
+came as one of themselves, poor, reviled and persecuted,
+and the wonder of it made the people throng in crowds
+to hear one who seemed indeed inspired. Those simple
+words from the depths of a great and noble heart filled
+all who listened with wonder. They were like the
+sharp cries of some wild bird calling to its mate&mdash;the
+people heard and understood them. When the citizens
+of an Umbrian town looked from their walls across the
+valley and saw the grey cloaked figure hurrying along
+the dusty road, they rang the bells to spread the good
+news, and bearing branches of olive went out singing to
+meet him. All turned out of their houses to run to
+the market-place where Francis, standing on steps, or
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span>
+upon a low wall, for he was short of stature, would
+speak to them as one friend does to another; sometimes
+charming them by his eloquence, often moving the
+whole multitude to bitter tears by his preaching on the
+passion of Christ. With his eyes looking up to the
+heavens, and his hands outstretched as though imploring
+them to repent, he seemed to belong to another world
+and "not to this century." They not only repented,
+but many left the world to follow him and spread the
+gospel of peace and love. The first woman who begged
+him to receive her vows of renunciation was Chiara
+Sciffi, of a noble Assisan house. Several members of
+the family, besides others from near and far, followed
+her into the cloister until she became the abbess of a
+numerous sisterhood, the foundress of the Poor Clares
+or Second Order of St. Francis.</p>
+
+<p>The first inspired messages of Francis were brought
+to the Assisans, and then he left them for awhile to
+journey further afield into other parts of Italy, where
+he always met with the same marvellous success. In
+the following account of his visit to Bologna we get a
+vivid idea of his manner of appeal to the people; and
+of their enthusiasm and astonishment that this poor and
+seemingly illiterate man, the very antithesis of the
+pedantic clergy, should have the power to hold and
+sway an audience by the magic of his words. "I,
+Thomas, citizen of Spalato, and archdeacon of the
+cathedral church of the same city, studying at Bologna
+in the year 1220, on the day of the assumption of the
+Mother of God, saw St. Francis preach in the square
+before the little palace, where nearly the whole town
+was assembled. He spoke first of angels, of men, and
+of devils. He explained the spiritual natures with
+such exactness and eloquence that his hearers were
+astonished that such words could come from the mouth
+of a man so simple as he was. Nor did he follow the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span>
+usual course of preachers. His discourse resembled
+rather one of those harangues that are made by popular
+orators. At the conclusion, he spoke only of the
+extinction of hatred, and the urgency of concluding
+treaties of peace, and compacts of union. His garments
+were soiled and torn, his person thin, his face pale, but
+God gave his words unheard-of power. He converted
+even men of rank, whose unrestrained fury and cruelty
+had bathed the country in blood; many who were
+enemies were reconciled. Love and veneration for the
+saint were universal; men and women thronged around
+him, and happy were those who could so much as touch
+the hem of his habit."<a name="FNanchor_32" id="FNanchor_32" href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a></p>
+
+<p>Young knights and students stepped out of the crowd
+after one of these burning discourses, resolved to don
+the grey habit and renounce the world. The ranks of
+the followers of St. Francis were swelled at every town
+through which he passed; and he left some of his own
+sweetness and gentleness among those who had listened
+to his preaching, so that party feuds lay dormant for
+awhile, enemies were reconciled, and all tried to lead
+more Christian lives. <i>Pax et bonum</i> was the Franciscan
+war-cry which fell indeed strangely on the air in a
+mediæval town. Whenever Francis heard of tension
+and ill-will between the nobles and the people he
+hurried with his message of peace to quell the storm.</p>
+
+<p>But at Perugia he failed. Brother Leo tells us that,
+"Once upon a time, when the Blessed Francis was
+preaching to a great multitude of people gathered together
+in the Piazza of Perugia, some cavaliers of the
+city began to joust and play on their horses in the
+piazza, thus interrupting his sermon; and, although
+rebuked by those present, they would not desist. Then
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span>
+the blessed Francis, in the fervour of his soul, turned
+towards them and said, 'Listen and understand what
+the Lord announces to you by me, his little servant,
+and refrain from jeering at him, and saying, He is
+an Assisan.' This he
+said because of the
+ancient hatred which
+still exists between
+the Perugians and the
+Assisans...."<a name="FNanchor_33" id="FNanchor_33" href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> Rebuking
+the citizens
+for their pride, he predicted
+that if they
+did not shortly repent
+civil war would break
+out in the city. But
+the Perugians, who
+fought ever better than
+they prayed, continued
+in their evil
+ways until at length
+the words of St.
+Francis were verified.
+A tumult arose between
+the people of
+Perugia, and the
+soldiers were thrust
+out of the city gates
+into the country, which they devastated, destroying
+trees, vineyards, and corn-fields, so that the misery in
+the land was great.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="illo074" id="illo074"></a>
+<img src="images/illus074.jpg" width="325" height="475" alt="VIA DI S. MARIA DELLE ROSE" />
+<p class="caption">VIA DI S. MARIA DELLE ROSE</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the course of a single day Francis often preached
+at five different towns or villages; sometimes he went
+up to a feudal castle, attracted by the sound of music
+and laughter. "Let us go up unto this feast," he
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span>
+would say to his companion, "for, with the help of
+God, we may win some good harvest of souls."
+Knights and ladies left the banqueting hall when they
+heard of his arrival, and Francis standing on a low
+parapet of the courtyard preached so "devoutly and
+sublimely to them that all stood with their eyes and
+their minds turned on him as though an angel of God
+were speaking." And then the gay company returned
+to their feast and the two friars went on their way
+singing aloud from the joy in their hearts, and passed
+the night praying in some deserted church or rested
+under the olive trees on the hill-side. At dawn they
+rose and "went according to their rule, begging bread
+for the love of God, St. Francis going by one street
+and Brother Masseo by another. But St. Francis,
+being contemptible to look upon and small of stature,
+was accounted but a vile beggar by those who knew
+him not, and only received some mouthfuls of food
+and small scraps of stale bread; but to Brother Masseo,
+because he was tall and finely made, were given tit-bits
+in large pieces and in plenty and whole slices of bread.
+When they had done begging they met together outside
+the town to eat in a place where was a fair spring,
+and near by a fine broad stone whereon each placed
+the alms they had gathered, and St. Francis seeing
+the pieces of bread given to Brother Masseo to be
+more numerous, better, and far larger than his own
+rejoiced greatly...."<a name="FNanchor_34" id="FNanchor_34" href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a></p>
+
+<p>Masseo on one occasion wishing to try the humility
+of Francis mocked him saying, "Why doth all the
+world come after thee, and why is it that all men long
+to see thee, and hear thee, and obey thee? Thou art
+not a comely man, thou art not possessed of much
+wisdom, thou art not of noble birth; whence comes
+it then that the whole world doth run after thee?"</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It is easy to see the naive wonder of the practical
+Masseo in these words, a wonder doubtless shared by
+others who looked on from the same standpoint, at the
+extraordinary influence Francis obtained through his
+preaching. Their astonishment must have reached its
+height when Francis came to a little town near Bevagna
+(perhaps Cannara) where he preached with such fervour
+that the whole population wished to take the franciscan
+habit. Husbands, wives, nobles, labourers, young and
+old, rich and poor, rose up with one accord, ready to
+leave their homes and follow him to the end of the
+earth. Such an awakening by the simple words of a
+road-side preacher had never before been seen, and was
+the precursor of other popular demonstrations a few
+years later.<a name="FNanchor_35" id="FNanchor_35" href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> Francis, with extraordinary diplomacy,
+held the enthusiastic crowd in check without extinguishing
+their piety. He calmly viewed the situation
+and solved the difficulty where another, with less knowledge
+of human nature, might have been carried away
+by the opening of the flood-gates. It is not without
+amusement that one thinks of Francis coming to convert
+sinners, and then finding he had called into being
+an order of Religious who absolutely refused to separate
+from him. He calmed the weeping crowd, and with
+caution said to them: "'Be not in a hurry, neither
+leave your homes, and I will order that which ye are
+to do for the salvation of your souls:' and he then
+decided to create the Third Order for the universal
+salvation of all, and thus, leaving them much consoled
+and well disposed to penitence, he departed...."</p>
+
+<p>At a time when war, party feuds, and the unlawful
+seizure of property brought misery into the land, the
+Tertiaries, united by solemn vows to keep the commandments
+of God, to be reconciled to their enemies, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span>
+to restore what was not rightfully theirs, became a
+power which had to be reckoned with. The rule forbidding
+them to fight, save in defence of the Church
+or of their country, dealt a severe blow at the feudal
+system, and therefore met with much opposition among
+the great barons. Persecution only increased their
+power, for so early as 1227 Gregory IX, protected
+the Brothers of Penitence by a special Bull. The
+enemies of the Church soon discovered that they had a
+powerful antagonist in an Order which comprised the
+faithful of every age, rank, and profession, and whose
+religious practices, whilst creating a great bond of union
+among them, were not severe enough to take them
+away from social life in the very heart of the great
+cities. They formed a second vanguard to the papacy,
+and Frederick II, was heard to complain that this
+Third Order impeded the execution of his plans
+against the Holy See; while his chancellor Pier delle
+Vigne in one of his letters exclaims that the whole
+of Christendom seems to have entered its ranks.<a name="FNanchor_36" id="FNanchor_36" href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a></p>
+
+<p>Thus both from within and from without the world
+was being moulded as Francis willed; all Italy responded
+to his call, and everywhere rose songs of praise to God
+from a people no longer oppressed by the squalor of
+their evil living. His energy and desire to gain souls
+drew him still further afield into the wilds of Slavonia,
+into Spain, Syria, Morocco, and later into Egypt, for
+the purpose of converting the Soldan. So great was
+his eagerness to arrive at his destination and begin to
+preach that, often leaving his companions far behind,
+he literally ran along the roads. He was "inebriated
+by the excessive fervour of his spirit," and on fire with
+divine love, and yet he failed on these missions in
+foreign lands. The reason probably lay in his total
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span>
+ignorance of any language except Italian and Provençal,
+so that his words must have lost all their eloquence
+and power when delivered through the medium of an
+interpreter, and we know that Francis never made use
+of miracles to enforce his teaching.<a name="FNanchor_37" id="FNanchor_37" href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a></p>
+
+<p>He returned to Assisi bitterly disappointed, and so
+despondent that for a while he was tempted to give up
+all idea of preaching. In this uncertainty he turned
+for council to Brother Sylvester and to St. Clare, who
+both urged him to continue his mission to the people;
+God, they said, had not elected him to work out his
+salvation in the solitude of a cell but for the salvation
+of all. He left the hermitage (perhaps the Carcere)
+and filled with new courage by their words, started on
+a fresh pilgrimage by "cities and castles," but this time
+among the Umbrians who knew and loved him. As
+he came near Bevagna in the plain a new crowd of
+listeners awaited him&mdash;troops of fluttering birds&mdash;bullfinches,
+rooks, doves, "a great company of creatures
+without number." Leaving his companions in a state
+of wonder on the road, he ran into the field saying,
+"I would preach to my little brothers the birds," and
+as he drew near, those that were on the ground did not
+attempt to fly away, while those perched on the trees
+flew down to listen to his sermon.</p>
+
+<p>"My little brethren birds," he said, after saluting
+them as was his custom, "ye ought greatly to praise
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span>
+and love the Lord who created you, for He provideth
+all that is necessary, giving unto you feathers for raiment
+and wings to fly with. The Most High God has placed
+you among His creatures, and given you the pure air
+for your abode; ye do not sow neither do ye reap, but
+He keeps and feeds you."<a name="FNanchor_38" id="FNanchor_38" href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> Stretching out their necks,
+opening their beaks, and spreading their wings, the birds
+listened while they fixed their eyes upon the saint and
+never moved even when he walked in their midst
+touching them with his habit, until he made the sign
+of the Cross and allowed them to depart. He often
+related this episode which had made such a happy day
+in his life and had been of good augury at a time when
+he was sad.</p>
+
+<p>The love of Francis for his "little brethren the
+birds," and indeed for all creatures however small, was
+one of the most beautiful traits in a character which
+stands out in such strong relief in the history of the
+middle ages. It was not only a poetical sentiment but
+the very essence of his being; a power felt by every
+living thing, from the brigand who left his haunts in
+the forests to follow him, to the half-frozen bees which
+crawled in winter to be fed with wine and honey from
+his hands. An understanding so complete with Nature
+was unknown until Francis stretched out his arms in
+yearning towards her shrines and drew the people,
+plunged in the gloom of Catharist doctrines, towards
+what was a religion in itself&mdash;the worship of the
+beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>"Le treizième siècle était prêt pour comprendre la
+voix du poète de l'Ombrie; le sermon aux oiseaux clôt
+le règne de l'art byzantin et de la pensée dont il était
+l'image. C'est la fin du dogmatisme et de l'autorité;
+c'est l'avenement de l'individualisme et de l'inspiration,"<a name="FNanchor_39" id="FNanchor_39" href="#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span>
+says M. Paul Sabatier. No one mocked at the sermon
+to the birds; no one wondered that leverets, loosed
+from the snare of the huntsman, should run to Francis
+for protection, or pheasants forsake the woods to seek a
+shelter in his cell; for so great an awakening had taken
+place in Italy that all understood the deep vein of
+poetry in their saint.</p>
+
+<p>His biographers have transmitted these various anecdotes
+with a tenderness and simplicity which cannot
+fail to impress us with the belief that Francis, like
+many in our own time, possessed a marked attraction
+for all animals, a magnetism felt with equal strength by
+man and beast. Love was the Orphean lute he played
+upon, sending such sweet melody into the world that
+its strains have not yet died away.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the feeling he had for the beautiful, the
+small, or the weak, there was another influence at work
+that made him walk with reverence over the stones,
+gather up the worms from the path to save them from
+being crushed, and buy the lambs that were being
+carried to market with their poor feet tied together.
+He saw in all things a symbol of some great truth
+which carried his thoughts straight to God. One
+day near Ancona he noticed a lamb following slowly
+and disconsolately a large herd of goats which made
+him think of Christ among the Pharisees. In pity
+he bought it from the goat-herd, and in triumph
+carried it to a neighbouring town where he preached
+a parable to an admiring crowd, even edifying the
+bishop by his piety.</p>
+
+<p>Speaking of his favourite birds he would say,
+"Sister lark hath a hood like the Religious ... and
+her raiment&mdash;to wit her feathers&mdash;resemble the earth....
+And when she soars she praises God most
+sweetly." Such was his desire to protect them that
+he once said if he could only have speech with the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span>
+Emperor he would entreat him to pass a special edict
+for the preservation of his sisters the larks, and command
+the "Mayors of the cities and the Lord of
+the castles to throw grain on the roads by the walled
+towns" on the feast of the Nativity, so that all the
+birds should rejoice with man on that day. He found
+great joy in the open fields, the vineyards, the rocky
+ravines, and the forests which gave shelter to his
+feathered brethren; running water and the greenness
+of the orchards, earth, fire, air, and the winds
+so invited him to divine love that often he passed
+the whole day praising the marvels of creation. No
+wonder he turned his steps more willingly up the
+mountain paths to the hermitage of the Carceri than
+towards the crowded cities. Nature was his companion,
+his breviary the mirror wherein he saw reflected
+the face of the Creator. In the song of the
+nightingales, in the sound of their wings, in the petals
+of a tiny flower, in the ever changing glory of his
+own Umbrian valley he was always reminded of God,
+and for this he has been rightly called a "Pan-Christian."</p>
+
+<p>There is not a corner in Umbria, one might almost
+say in Italy, which does not bear some record of the
+passage of the saint. The sick were brought to him
+and cured, those in trouble laid their sorrows before
+him and went away comforted. When anything went
+wrong, a hasty message was sent to Francis, and all
+with child-like simplicity trusted in him to set things
+right. We even hear that the people of Gubbio, being
+persecuted by a fierce wolf, had recourse to him, for
+they failed to protect themselves though the men
+sallied forth "as if going to battle." The saint had
+little difficulty in persuading Brother Wolf to lead a
+respectable life; and he, seeing the advantage of a
+peaceful existence, bowed his head and placed his paw,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span>
+as a solemn seal to the compact, in the hand of Francis
+amid the joyful cries of the people who marvelled
+greatly at the "novelty of the miracle." After this
+he could be seen walking gently through the streets
+of Gubbio to receive his daily ration at every door,
+cared for by the citizens "and not a dog would wag
+even his tongue against him." When Brother Wolf
+died there was bitter mourning in the city, for all felt
+as if a friend had passed away, and there was none
+left to remind them of the kindly saint who had
+helped them in their need. "Am I expected to
+believe these fairy tales?" some may ask with a sneer.
+The exact events related&mdash;no&mdash;but the spirit of these
+legends is more necessary to a true conception of the
+saint and the times in which he lived than all the
+histories that can ever be written about him. The
+Umbrians pictured him as they saw and understood
+him, and tradition going from mouth to mouth found
+finally its perfect expression in the "Little Flowers of
+St. Francis." Wonders and miracles are in every page,
+it is true, but then the peasants will tell you all things
+are possible in Umbria; the taming of wild beasts,
+the silencing of garrulous swallows who chattered so
+loudly while he preached, do not seem stranger to them
+than the conversion of brigands and murderers, for did
+not the very angels obey his wishes and play and sing
+to him one night when he lay ill in a lonely hermitage,
+longing for the sound of sweet strains to break the
+awful stillness round him?</p>
+
+<p>Francis would have been sorely troubled had he
+foreseen the numberless miracles his biographers were
+going to attribute to him, for no saint was ever
+humbler. Even in his lifetime, oppressed by the
+homage paid him, he would say to his adorers with a
+touch of quaint humour: "do not be in such haste to
+proclaim me a saint, for I may still be the father of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span>
+children." He was always fearful lest people should
+overrate his good actions, and his horror of hypocrisy
+drove him to confess aloud to the people gathered
+round to listen to a sermon, in what manner he had
+given way to the desires of "Brother Body." Upon
+one occasion having used lard in lieu of the less
+wholesome oil when he was ill, he began his sermon
+by saying: "Ye come to me with great devoutness
+believing me to be a saint, but I do confess unto God
+and unto you that this Lent I have eaten cakes made
+with lard." Another time, after a severe chill, his
+companions sewed some fox-skin inside his habit to
+keep him somewhat warmer during the bitter cold,
+but he was not happy until a piece had been sewn
+also on the outside so that all might see the luxury
+he allowed himself.</p>
+
+<p>It may at first seem strange that one so simple
+should have exercised such extraordinary influence on
+men and women of all ranks, an influence which has
+lasted with undiminished force for seven hundred
+years. But we must remember that a people, however
+ready to listen to the words of a reformer (especially
+an Italian crowd), will hardly be moved by calmness
+or sense; only when one like Francis stirs their
+imagination by a peculiar way of announcing God's
+word, and by acts sometimes bordering on insanity,
+can he completely succeed in winning them. The
+Assisans, at first shocked by some of the spectacles
+they witnessed in their sleepy town, jeered and
+murmured, until at last the saint literally took them
+by storm; and the more he risked their good opinion
+the louder they applauded him and wept for their sins.
+Astonishment was at its height when on the way to
+some service at the cathedral, the citizens saw Francis
+approaching them "naked save for his breeches,"
+while Brother Leo carried his habit. He has gone
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span>
+mad through too much penance, some thought. The
+truth was that Francis had imposed this same penance
+on Brother Ruffino who was then preaching to the
+people in the cathedral, and his conscience smote him
+so that he began to chide himself, saying: "Why art
+thou so presumptuous, son of Bernardone, vile little
+man, as to command Fra Ruffino, who is one of the
+noblest of the Assisans, to go and preach to the people
+as though he were mad."... So when Ruffino's
+sermon was ended Francis went up into the pulpit and
+preached with such eloquence on his Lady Poverty
+and on the nakedness and shame of the Passion
+suffered by Our Lord Jesus Christ "that the whole
+church was filled with the sound of weeping and
+wailing such as had never before been heard in Assisi."
+Thus did the force of originality win the people, and
+all those who had jeered but a few minutes before were
+much "edified and comforted by this act of St. Francis
+and Brother Ruffino; and St. Francis having reclad
+Brother Ruffino and himself, returned to the Portiuncula
+praising and glorifying God, who had given them
+grace to abase themselves to the edification of Christ's
+little sheep."</p>
+
+<p>By word and example Francis taught his disciples
+to be especially humble towards the clergy. "If ye
+be sons of peace," he often said, "ye shall win both
+clergy and people, and this is more acceptable to God
+than to win the people only and to scandalise the
+clergy. Cover their backslidings and supply their
+many defects, and when ye have done this be ye the
+more humble." He had to struggle against much
+opposition among the bishops, who looked upon him
+and his friars as intruders encroaching upon their
+rights. People had often advised him to obtain a Bull
+from Rome, to enable him to preach without asking
+permission, but it was through the power of persistent
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span>
+meekness that he wished to win his way to every
+heart, and the only weapons he used were those of
+love. St. Bonaventura tells us that the Bishop of
+Imola absolutely refused to let Francis call the citizens
+together and preach to them. "It suffices, friar, that
+I preach to the people myself," was the cross reply,
+and Francis, drawing his cowl over his head, humbly
+went his way. But after the short space of an hour
+he retraced his steps, and the bishop inquired with some
+anger why he had returned. He made answer in all
+humility of heart and speech: "My lord, if a father
+sends his son out at one door there is nothing left for
+him but to return by another." Then the bishop,
+vanquished by his humility, embraced him with a joyful
+countenance, saying: "Thou and all thy brethren
+shall have a general licence to preach throughout
+my diocese, as the reward of thy holy humility."<a name="FNanchor_40" id="FNanchor_40" href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a></p>
+
+<p>This was the saint, gentle and sweet among men,
+who won the friendship of Ugolino, Bishop of Ostia
+(afterwards Pope Gregory IX). The bishop often
+spent quiet hours at the Portiuncula, trying perhaps to
+find, in the companionship of the saint and his poor
+friars, a peace he in vain sought amid the luxury
+of the Papal Court. Celano,<a name="FNanchor_41" id="FNanchor_41" href="#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> who may have been
+present during one of these meetings, tells us how
+he delighted in throwing off his rich robes and clothing
+himself in the Franciscan habit. In these moments
+of humility he would reverently bend the knee to
+Francis and kiss his hands. Besides his great admiration
+and love for the personality of the saint, he was
+not slow to perceive the services Francis had rendered
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span>
+in endeavouring to restore something of the pristine
+purity to Christianity, and further, the Order was
+fast becoming of political importance. The work of
+organising a community, no longer a handful of Assisan
+knights and yeomen following in the footsteps of their
+leader, was by no means an easy task; and Ugolino
+saw his way to bring it more closely into the service
+of the Church. Francis, whether willingly or not we
+cannot say, begged the Pope to name Ugolino Patron
+and Father of his Order. This was readily accorded,
+for it was felt in the papal circle that Francis was
+not so easy to drive as became a submissive child of
+the Church. They could not complain of actual
+disobedience, but he liked doing things his own way.
+By some at Rome it was suggested to him that he
+should adopt the Benedictine rule, by others that he
+might join his Order to that of St Dominic, but
+the saint smiled sweetly, and though so dove-like none
+succeeded in entangling him in their diplomatic nets.
+Indeed he puzzled Ugolino many times, and both
+Innocent III and Honorius III were never quite
+sure whether they had to do with a simpleton or a
+saint. The Roman prelates, completely out of sympathy
+with his doctrine of poverty, were only too ready
+to thwart him, and Ugolino knowing this advised him
+"not to go beyond the mountains" but remain in Italy
+to protect the interests of his order. He further persuaded
+him to come to Rome and preach before the
+Pope and cardinals, thinking that the personality of the
+saint might perchance win their favour. Anxious to
+do honour to his patron, Francis composed a sermon
+and committed it to memory with great care. When
+the slight, grey figure, the dust of the Umbrian roads
+still clinging to his sandals, stood up in the spacious
+hall of the Lateran before Honorius and the venerable
+cardinals, Ugolino watched with anxious eyes the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span>
+course of events. In mortal fear "he supplicated God
+with all his being that the simplicity of the holy man
+should not become an object of ridicule," and resigning
+himself to Providence he waited. There was a
+moment of suspense, of awful silence, for Francis had
+completely forgotten the sermon he had so carefully
+learned by heart. But his humility befriended him;
+stepping forward a few paces with a gesture of regret
+he quietly confessed what had happened, and then, as
+if indeed inspired, he broke forth into one of his most
+eloquent sermons. "He preached with such fervour
+of spirit," says Celano, "that being unable to contain
+himself for joy whilst proclaiming the Word of God,
+he moved even his feet in the manner of one dancing,
+not for play, but driven thereto by the strength of the
+divine love that burnt within him: therefore he incited
+none to laughter but drew tears of sorrow from
+all."<a name="FNanchor_42" id="FNanchor_42" href="#Footnote_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a></p>
+
+<p>When Francis had been preaching for some time a
+certain weariness seems to have possessed him, and he
+would then, "leaving behind him the tumult of the
+multitude," retire to some secret place to dwell in constant
+prayer and heavenly contemplation. There were
+many of these refuges, but none so isolated from the
+world as the lofty mountain of La Vernia, which
+had been given to him by Count Orlando Cattani of
+Chiusi, whose ruined castle can still be seen on a spur
+of the Apennines just below. The "Sacred Mount"
+rises clear above the valley of the Casentino to the
+height of 4000 feet, between the sources of the Tiber
+and the Arno, and looks straight down upon one of
+the perfect views in Tuscany which Dante speaks of:</p>
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="o1">"The rills that glitter down the grassy slopes</p>
+<p>Of Casentino, making fresh and soft</p>
+<p>The banks whereby they glide to Arno's stream."</p>
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Range upon range of splendid hills falling away
+gradually to the south gather in their folds the pale-tinted
+mists of early summer, and seem to guard the
+valley from other lands, so intense is the feeling of
+remoteness. From the white towns gleaming like
+pearls on their green slopes above the young Arno
+cradled by poplars, is seen the sharp outline of La
+Vernia against the sky, always black, gloomy, and
+defiant above the cornfields and vineyards. Its summit,
+covered with fir-trees, straight and close together,
+appears like a great whale that has rested there since
+the days of the flood. Below the forest lie huge
+boulders of rock and yawning chasms, upheaved, says
+the legend, during the earthquake at the time of the
+Crucifixion. To this solitary place came Francis in
+the year 1224 to celebrate by forty days of fasting
+and prayer the feast of St. Michael the Archangel,
+accompanied by Fra Leo "the little sheep of God,"
+Fra Angelo "the gentle knight," Fra Illuminato, and
+Fra Masseo. On former visits he had been content
+to stay in a cell beneath a "fair beech tree" built for
+him by Count Orlando close to where the brethren
+lived; but this time he chose a spot on the loneliest
+side of the mountain where no sound could be heard.
+To reach it the brethren had to throw a bridge across
+a "horrible and fearful cleft in a huge rock," and after
+they had fashioned him a rough shelter they left him
+in utter solitude; only once in the day and once at
+night Fra Leo was permitted to bring a little bread
+and water which he left by the bridge, stealing silently
+away unless called by Francis. Near this lonely retreat
+a falcon had built a nest and used to wake him
+regularly a little before matins with his cry, beating
+his wings at his cell until the saint rose to recite his
+orations. Francis, charmed with so exact a clock,
+obeyed the summons, and such was the sympathy between
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span>
+the friends that the falcon always knew when he
+was weary or ill, and would then "gently, and like a discreet
+and compassionate person, utter his cry later ...
+and besides this, in the day would sometimes stay quite
+tamely with him." The birds, which had shown joy
+on his arrival, filled the woods with their sweetest song
+while the angels visited him, sometimes playing such
+beautiful music on the viol that "his soul almost
+melted away." But Francis, honoured as he was by
+celestial spirits, and by man and beast, had still to receive
+the greatest sign of grace ever accorded to a saint,
+and the story has been gravely related by ancient and
+modern writers for seven centuries.</p>
+
+<p>The moment had certainly arrived for accomplishing
+the high designs of Providence, for Francis through
+prayer, fasting, and constant contemplation on the Passion
+of Christ, had become like some spiritual being
+untrammelled by the bonds of the flesh. It was on
+the feast of the Exaltation of the Cross while praying
+on the mountain side, that the marvellous vision was
+vouchsafed to him. The dawn had hardly broken
+when "he beheld a Seraph who had six wings,
+which shone with such splendour that they seemed
+on fire, and with swift flight he came above the face
+of the Blessed Francis who was gazing upwards to
+the sky, and from the midst of the wings of the
+Seraph appeared suddenly the likeness of a man
+crucified with hands and feet stretched out in the
+manner of a cross, and they were marked with
+wounds like those of Our Lord Jesus Christ, and
+two wings of the said Seraph were above the head,
+two were spread as though flying, and two veiled the
+whole body."<a name="FNanchor_43" id="FNanchor_43" href="#Footnote_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> Flames of fire lit up the mountains
+and the valley during the vision, and some muleteers
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span>
+seeing "the bright light shining through the windows
+of the inn where they slept, saddled and loaded their
+beasts thinking the day had broke." When Francis
+rose from his knees and looked up to the sky where
+the seraph had been and where now the sun was
+rising over the Casentino and her steepled towns, he
+bore on his body the marks of the Crucified. His
+hands and feet appeared as though pierced through
+with nails, the heads being on the inside of the
+hands and on the upper part of the feet, while
+blood flowed from the wound in his side. Thus transformed
+by his surpassing love for Christ, Francis returned
+to his four companions and recounted to them
+his vision, trying all the while out of his deep humility
+to hide from them the signs of the Stigmata. Before
+returning to Assisi he bade them a final farewell, for
+he knew this was the last time he would come with
+them to La Vernia. The scene is beautifully pictured
+in a letter of Fra Masseo, which, as far as we know, is
+here translated for the first time.</p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">Jesus, Mary my Hope.</span></p>
+
+<p>"Brother Masseo, sinner, and unworthy servant of
+Jesus Christ, companion of Brother Francis of Assisi,
+man most dear unto God, peace and greetings to all
+brethren and sons of the great patriarch Francis,
+standard-bearer of Christ.</p>
+
+<p>"The great patriarch having determined to bid a
+last farewell to this sacred mount on the 30th of
+September 1224, day of the feast of St Jerome,
+the Count Orlando of Chiusi sent to him an ass in
+order that he might ride thereon, forasmuch as he
+could not put his feet to the ground by reason of
+their being sore wounded and pierced with nails. In
+the morning early having heard mass, according to his
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span>
+wont, in Sta. Maria degli Angeli,<a name="FNanchor_44" id="FNanchor_44" href="#Footnote_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> he called all the
+brethren into the chapel, and bade them in holy
+obedience to live together in charity, to be diligent
+in prayer, always to tend the said place carefully, and
+to officiate therein day and night. Moreover he commended
+the whole of the sacred mount to all his
+brethren present, as well as to those to come, exhorting
+them to have a care that the said place should not
+be profaned, but always reverenced and respected, and
+he gave his benediction to all inhabitants thereof, and
+to all who bore thereunto reverence and respect. On
+the other hand, he said: 'Let them be confounded
+who are wanting in respect to the said place, and from
+God let them expect a well-merited chastisement.'
+To me he said: 'Know, Brother Masseo, that my
+intention is that on this mount shall live friars having
+the fear of God before their eyes, and chosen among
+the best of my order, let therefore the superiors strive
+to send here the worthiest friars; ah! ah! ah! Brother
+Masseo, I will say no more.'</p>
+
+<p>"He then commanded and ordered me, Brother
+Masseo, and Brother Angelo, Brother Silvestro and
+Brother Illuminato, to have a special care of the
+place where that great miracle of the holy Stigmata
+occurred.<a name="FNanchor_45" id="FNanchor_45" href="#Footnote_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> Having said that, he exclaimed 'Farewell,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span>
+farewell, farewell, Brother Masseo.' Then
+turning to Brother Angelo, he said: 'Farewell,
+farewell,' and the same to Brother Silvestro and
+Brother Illuminato: 'Remain in peace, most dear
+sons, farewell, I depart from you in the body, but
+I leave my heart with you; I depart with Brother
+Lamb of God, and am going to Sta. Maria degli
+Angeli<a name="FNanchor_46" id="FNanchor_46" href="#Footnote_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> never to return here more; I am going,
+farewell, farewell, farewell to all! Farewell, sacred
+mount. Farewell, mount Alvernia. Farewell, mount
+of the angels. Farewell, beloved Brother Falcon,
+I thank thee for the charity thou didst show me,
+farewell! Farewell, Sasso Spicco,<a name="FNanchor_47" id="FNanchor_47" href="#Footnote_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> never more
+shall I come to visit thee, farewell, farewell, farewell,
+oh rock which didst receive me within thine
+entrails, the devil being cheated by thee, never
+more shall we behold one another!<a name="FNanchor_48" id="FNanchor_48" href="#Footnote_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> Farewell, Sta.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span>
+Maria degli Angeli, mother of the eternal Word.
+I commend to thee these my sons.'</p>
+
+<p>"Whilst our beloved father was speaking these
+words, our eyes poured forth torrents of tears, so
+that he also wept as he turned to go, taking with
+him our hearts, and we remained orphans because of
+the departure of such a father.</p>
+
+<p>"I, Brother Masseo, have written this with tears.
+May God bless us."</p>
+
+<p>For two years after his return from La Vernia,
+Francis, bearing the marks of the Seraph, continued
+to preach and visit the lazar houses, although he
+was so ill and worn by fasts and vigils that his
+companions marvelled how the spirit could still
+survive in so frail a body. Moreover he had become
+nearly blind, remaining sometimes sixty days
+and more unable to see the light of day or even
+the light of fire. It was to him a martyrdom that
+while walking in the woods led by one of the
+brethren, the scenes he loved so well should be
+hidden by this awful darkness. He could only
+dream of the past when he had journeyed from
+one walled town to another through the valley of
+Spoleto; sometimes rejoicing in the brilliant sunshine,
+often watching the storms sweeping so gloriously
+over the land in summer when the rocky beds
+of torrents were filled with rushing water and clouds
+cast purple shadows across the plain. Now those
+wanderings were over, and the spirit imprisoned
+within him found more than ever an outlet in music,
+and "the strain of divine murmurs which fell upon
+his ears, broke out in Gallic songs."</p>
+
+<p>He went on his way singing to meet death, and the
+greater his sufferings the sweeter were the melodies he
+composed. It was during an access of his infirmities
+and blindness that St. Clare induced him to take some
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span>
+days of rest in a small wattle hut she had built in
+the olive grove close to her convent of San Damiano.
+After nights of bitter tribulation, of bodily suffering,
+passed in earnest prayer, he arose one morning with
+his heart full of new praises to the Creator. Meditating
+for a while he exclaimed, "Altissimo, omnipotente
+bono Signore," and then composed a chaunt
+thereon, and taught it to his companions so that they
+might proclaim and sing it. His soul was so comforted
+and full of joy that he desired to send for
+Brother Pacifico, who in the world had borne the
+title of King of Verse and had been a most renowned
+troubadour, and to give to him as companions some
+of the brethren to go about the world preaching and
+singing praises to the Lord ... he willed also that
+when the preaching was ended all together should
+as minstrels of God sing lauds unto Him. And at
+the close of the singing he ordered that the preacher
+should say to the people: "We are the minstrels of
+the Lord God wherefore we desire to be rewarded
+by you, to wit, that you persevere in true repentance."<a name="FNanchor_49" id="FNanchor_49" href="#Footnote_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a></p>
+
+<p>It was the Canticle of the Sun which Francis
+composed in his days of blindness, leaving it as an
+undying message to the world, an appeal that they
+should not cease to love the things he had brought
+to their knowledge during those earlier days of his
+ministry among them. He poured the teaching of
+a life-time into a song of passionate praise to the
+Creator of a world he had loved and found so beautiful;
+and the sustained melody of the long, rolling
+lines charm our fancy like the sound of waves during
+calm nights breaking upon the beach. The poem,
+though rough and unhewn, still remains one of the
+marvels of early literature, and to Francis belongs
+the honour of setting his seal on the religious poetry
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span>
+of his country. His was the first glow of colour
+proclaiming the dawn&mdash;the first notes of song which,
+coming from Assisi, passed along the ranks of Italian
+poets to be taken up by Dante in "full-throated ease."
+We give the Canticle of the Sun in the exquisite
+version of Matthew Arnold.</p>
+
+<p>"O most high, almighty, good Lord God, to
+Thee belong praise, glory, honour, and all blessing!</p>
+
+<p>"Praised be my Lord God with all His creatures;
+and specially our brother the sun, who brings us the
+day, and who brings us the light; fair is he, and
+shining with a very great splendour: O Lord, he
+signifies to us Thee!</p>
+
+<p>"Praised be my Lord for our sister the moon, and
+for the stars, the which he has set clear and lovely in
+heaven.</p>
+
+<p>"Praised be our Lord for our brother the wind,
+and for air and cloud, calms and all weather, by the
+which thou upholdest in life all creatures.</p>
+
+<p>"Praised be my Lord for our sister water, who is
+very serviceable unto us, and humble, and precious,
+and clean.</p>
+
+<p>"Praised be my Lord for our brother fire, through
+whom thou givest us light in the darkness; and he is
+bright, and pleasant, and very mighty, and strong.</p>
+
+<p>"Praised be my Lord for our mother the earth,
+the which doth sustain us and keep us, and bringeth
+forth divers fruits and flowers of many colours, and grass.</p>
+
+<p>"Praised be my Lord for all those who pardon
+one another for his love's sake, and who endure weakness
+and tribulation; blessed are they who peaceably
+shall endure, for Thou, O most Highest, shalt give
+them a crown!<a name="FNanchor_50" id="FNanchor_50" href="#Footnote_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Praised be my Lord for our sister, the death of
+the body, from whom no man escapeth. Woe to
+him who dieth in mortal sin! Blessed are they who
+are found walking by Thy most holy will, for the
+second death shall have no power to do them harm.</p>
+
+<p>"Praise ye and bless ye the Lord, and give thanks
+unto Him, and serve Him with great humility."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo096" id="illo096"></a>
+<img src="images/illus096.jpg" width="325" height="285" alt="THE ARMS OF THE FRANCISCANS." />
+<p class="caption">THE ARMS OF THE FRANCISCANS.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">CHAPTER III</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center b175"><i>The Carceri, Rivo-Torto and Life at
+the Portiuncula</i></p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="o1">"O beata solitudo,</p>
+<p>O sola beatudine."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="dropcap">T</span>hese three places near Assisi, so intimately
+associated with St. Francis, were in a way emblematic
+of the various stages in the rise and growth of
+his young community, and we shall see that the saint
+went from one to the other, not by chance, but with a
+settled purpose in his mind. The Carceri he kept as
+a something apart from, and outside his daily life; it
+was a hermitage in the strict sense of the word, where,
+far from the sound of any human voice, he could come
+and live a short time in isolated communion with God.
+As his followers increased, and the Order he had
+founded with but a few brethren developed even in
+its first years into a great army, we can easily understand
+the longing for solitude which at times became
+too strong to be resisted, for his nature was well fitted
+for the hermit's life, and it called him with such persistence
+to the woods among the flowers and the birds
+he loved, that had he been less tender for the sufferings
+of others, more blind to the ills of the Church, it
+is possible that the whole course of events might have
+been altered. Giotto would not have been called to
+Assisi, or if he had been, the legends told to him by
+the friars might not have inspired him to paint such
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span>
+master-pieces as he has left us in the Franciscan
+Basilica; and we should now be the poorer because
+St. Francis had chosen seven hundred years ago to live
+in an Etruscan tomb at Orte, or in a grotto on Mount
+Subasio. So much depended, not only upon what St.
+Francis achieved, but on the way in which he chose to
+work. Who therefore
+can tell how
+much we owe to
+the little mountain
+retreat of the
+Carceri, where,
+spending such hours
+of wondrous peace
+surrounded by all
+that he most
+cherished in nature,
+the saint could refresh
+himself and
+gain new strength
+for long periods of
+arduous labour
+among men.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="illo098" id="illo098"></a>
+<img src="images/illus098.jpg" width="325" height="425" alt="HERMITAGE OF THE CARCERI" />
+<p class="caption">HERMITAGE OF THE CARCERI</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Carceri
+came into the possession
+of St. Francis
+through the
+generosity of the
+Benedictines who,
+until his advent, had held unlimited sway in Umbria.
+Many churches, and we may say, almost all the hermitages
+of the surrounding country belonged to them.
+But their principal stronghold, built in the eleventh
+century, stood on the higher slopes of Mount Subasio,
+while the Carceri, lying a little to the west, was used
+by them probably as a place of retreat when wearied of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span>
+monastic life. Both monastery and hermitage seem to
+have been quiet enough, and we only occasionally hear
+of the Benedictine monks starting off on a visit to
+some hermit of renowned sanctity, or going upon some
+errand of mercy among the peasants in the valley,
+whom they often surprised by marvellous though
+somewhat aimless miracles wrought for their edification.
+Then early in the fourteenth century these
+hermit monks of Mount Subasio suddenly found themselves
+in the midst of the fighting of a mediæval
+populace, for the Assisans, not slow to discover the great
+military importance of the Benedictine Abbey, wished
+to possess it. When the struggle between Guelph and
+Ghibelline was at its height, the monks were driven
+to take refuge in the town, while their home was
+taken possession of by the exiled party who used it as
+a fortress whence they could sally forth and harass the
+eastern approach to Assisi. Perpetual skirmishes took
+place beneath its walls until the roving adventurer
+Broglia di Trino, who had made himself master of the
+town in 1399, in a solemn council held at the Rocca
+Maggiore issued an edict that the Monastery of St.
+Benedict was to be razed to the ground, determining
+thus to deprive the turbulent nobles and their party of
+so sure a refuge in times of civil war.</p>
+
+<p>The solid walls and fine byzantine columns of what
+once was the most celebrated abbey in Umbria now
+remain much as in the mediæval days of their wreckage,
+and, until a few years ago when some repairs were
+made, the church was open for the mountain birds to
+nest in, and wild animals used it as their lair.</p>
+
+<p>But both church and monastery stood proudly upon
+the mountain height above the plain when St. Francis,
+then the young mendicant looked upon by many as a
+madman, would knock at the gates, and the abbot
+followed by his monks, came out to listen to the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span>
+humble requests he so often had to make. These
+prosperous religious most generously patronised St.
+Francis in the time of his obscurity, giving him the
+chapel of the Portiuncula, and later (the date is
+uncertain but some say in 1215) they allowed him
+to take possession of the still humbler chapel and huts
+of the Carceri. Even to call such shelters huts is giving
+them too grand a name, for they were but caverns
+excavated in the rock, scattered here and there in a
+deep mountain gorge. They can still be seen, unchanged
+since the days of St. Francis save for the tresses
+of ivy growing thick, like a curtain, across the entrance,
+for now there are none to pass in and out to pray there.</p>
+
+<p>Even the attempt to describe the loneliness and
+discomfort of this hermitage seems to strike terror into
+the hearts of later franciscan writers, who no longer
+caring to live in caves, only saw Dantesque visions
+when they thought of these arid, sunburnt rocks,
+rushing torrents and wild wastes of mountains which
+even shepherds never reached. But luckily in those
+days there was one Umbrian who loved such isolated
+spots; and the charm of that silence, born of the very
+soul of Francis and guarded jealously by nature
+herself during long centuries in memory of him, now
+tempts us up the mountain side upon a pilgrimage to the
+one place where his spirit still lives in all its primitive
+vigour and purity.</p>
+
+<p>The road leading to the Carceri<a name="FNanchor_51" id="FNanchor_51" href="#Footnote_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> from the Porta
+Cappucini passes first through rich corn fields and olive
+groves, but as it skirts round Mount Subasio towards
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span>
+the ravine it becomes a mere mountain track. Only
+here and there, where peasants have patiently scraped
+away the stones, grows a little struggling corn, while
+small hill flowers nestle between the rocks unshaded
+even by olive trees; the colour of a stray Judas tree,
+or a lilac bush in bloom, only makes the landscape seem
+more barren and forlorn. Looking upon the road
+to Spello, winding down the hill through luxuriant
+fields of indian corn and olive groves, with the oak
+trees spreading their still fresher green over the vineyards
+of the plain, we feel that this pathway to the
+Carceri is something novel and unlike anything at Assisi
+which we have hitherto explored. Just as we are
+marvelling at its loveliness, a sudden turn brings Assisi
+once more in view, and the sight we get of it from here
+carries us straight back to the days of St. Francis; for
+the great basilica and convent are hidden by the brow
+of the hill, and what we now see is exactly what he
+looked upon so often as he hastened from Assisi to his
+hermitage, or left it when he was ready to take up the
+burden of men's lives once more. The old walls,
+looking now much as they did after a stormy battle
+with Perugia, stretch round the same rose-tinted town,
+which, strangely enough, time has altered but slightly&mdash;it
+is only a little more toned in colour, the Subasian
+stone streaked here and there with deeper shades of
+yellow and pink, while the castle is more ruined,
+rearing itself less proudly from its green hill-top than
+in earlier days of splendour. But charming as the view
+of the town is, we quickly leave it to watch the changes
+of light and colour in the valley and on the wide-bedded
+Tescio as it twists and turns in countless sharp zig-zags
+till we lose it where it joins the Tiber&mdash;there where
+the mist rises. We might travel far and not find so
+fascinating a river as the Tescio; only a trickle
+of water it is true, but sparkling in the sunshine like
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span>
+a long flash of lightning which has fallen to earth and
+can find no escape from a tangle of fields and vineyards.<a name="FNanchor_52" id="FNanchor_52" href="#Footnote_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a>
+Then our road turns away again from the
+glowing valley shimmering in the haze of a late May
+afternoon, and mounting ever higher we plunge into
+the very heart of the Assisan mountain, uncultivated,
+wild, colourless and yet how strangely beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>Another half mile brings us round the mountain side
+to a narrow gorge, and the only thing in sight except
+the ilex trees is an arched doorway with a glimpse,
+caught through the half open gate, of a tiny courtyard.
+A step further on and we find ourselves standing amidst
+a cluster of cells and chapels seeming as if they hung
+from the bare rocks with nothing to prevent them falling
+straight into the depths of the ravine; and the
+silence around is stranger far than the mountain solitude.
+Surely none live here, we think, when suddenly
+a brown-clothed friar looks round the corner of a
+door, and without waste of time or asking of questions
+beckons us to follow, telling rapidly as he goes the
+story of each tree, rock, cell and shrine.</p>
+
+<p>Crossing two or three chapels and passing through a
+trap-door and down a ladder, we reach a narrow cave-like
+cell where St. Francis used to sleep during those rare
+moments when he was not engaged in prayer. As at
+La Vernia this "bed" was scooped out of the rock,
+and a piece of wood served him as a pillow. Adjoining
+is an oratory where the crucifix the saint always
+carried with him is preserved. The doors are so
+narrow and so low that the smallest person must stoop
+and edge in sideways. From these underground caves
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span>
+it is a joy to emerge once more into the sunlight, and
+one of the delightful surprises of the place is to step
+straight out of the oppressive darkness of the cells into
+the ilex wood, with the banks above and around us
+glowing with sweet-scented cyclamen, yellow orchids,
+and long-stemmed violets. It is not surprising that St.
+Francis often left his cell to wander further into these
+woods when the birds, as though they had waited for
+his coming, would gather from all sides and intercept
+him just as he reached the bridge close to the hermitage.
+While they perched upon an ilex tree (which is still to
+be seen), he stood beneath and talked to them as only
+St. Francis knew how. His first sermon to the birds
+took place at Bevagna, but at the Carceri he was continually
+holding conversations with his little feathered
+brethren. This perhaps was also where he held his
+nocturnal duet with the nightingale, which was singing
+with especial sweetness just outside his cell. St. Francis
+called Brother Leo to come also and sing and see
+which would tire first, but the "little Lamb of God"
+replied that he had no voice, refusing even to try. So
+the saint went forth alone to the strange contest, and
+he and the bird sang the praises of God all through
+the darkest hours of the night until, quite worn out,
+the saint was forced to acknowledge the victory of
+Brother Nightingale.</p>
+
+<p>Very different is the story of his encounter with the
+tempting devil whom he precipitated by his prayers into
+the ravine below; the hole through which the unwelcome
+visitor departed is still shown outside the saint's
+cell. Devils do not play a very prominent part in the
+story of the first franciscans, but this mountain solitude
+seems to have so excited the imaginations of later
+chroniclers that yet another story of a devil belongs to
+the Carceri, and is quaintly recounted in the <i>Fioretti</i>.
+This time he appeared to Brother Rufino in the form
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span>
+of Christ to tempt him from his life of holiness. "O
+Brother Rufino," said the devil, "have I not told thee
+that thou shouldst not believe the son of Pietro Bernardone?...
+And straightway Brother Rufino
+made answer: 'Open thy mouth that I may cast into
+it filth.' Whereat the devil, being exceeding wroth,
+forthwith departed with so furious a tempest and shaking
+of the rocks of Mount Subasio, which was hard by,
+that the noise of the falling rocks lasted a great while;
+and so furiously did they strike one against the other
+in rolling down that they flashed sparks of terrific fire
+in all the valley, and at the terrible noise they made
+St. Francis and his companions came out of the house
+in amazement to see what strange thing was this; and
+still is to be seen that exceeding great ruin of rocks."</p>
+
+<p>Close to the spot rendered famous by the devil's
+visits a bridge crosses the gorge of a great torrent,
+which, threatening once to destroy the hermitage, was
+miraculously dried up by St. Francis, and now only
+fills its rocky bed when any public calamity is near.
+From it a good view is obtained of the hermitage, but
+perhaps a still better is to be had from under the avenue
+of trees a little beyond, on the opposite side of the deep
+ravine whence the groups of hovels are seen to hang like
+a honeycomb against the mountain side, so tightly set
+together that one can hardly distinguish where the
+buildings begin and the rock ends.</p>
+
+<p>The ilex trees grow in a semicircle round this
+cluster of cells and caverns, and high above it all rises
+a peak of Mount Subasio, grey as St. Francis' habit,
+with a line of jagged rocks on the summit which looks
+more like the remains of some Umbrian temple of
+almost prehistoric days than the work of nature.</p>
+
+<p>The sides of this mountain ravine approach so near
+together that only a narrow vista of the plain is obtained,
+blue in the summer haze, with no village or even
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span>
+house in sight. It would be difficult to find a place
+with the feeling of utter solitude so unbroken, and as
+we realised that these friars lived here nearly all their
+life, many not even going to Assisi more than once
+in five years, we said to one of them: "How lonely
+you must be," and he, as though recalling a time of
+struggle in the world, answered: "Doubtless there
+are better things in the town, but here, at the Carceri,
+there is peace."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo105" id="illo105"></a>
+<img src="images/illus105.jpg" width="350" height="358" alt="THE CARCERI WITH A VIEW OF THE BRIDGE" />
+<p class="caption">THE CARCERI WITH A VIEW OF THE BRIDGE</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is the hermit's answer; but now the need of such
+lives has long since passed away, and even St. Francis,
+living at the time when the strain of perpetual warfare,
+famine, pestilence and crime, created a fierce craving
+for solitude in the lives of many, realised that a hermitage
+must only be a place to rest in for a while&mdash;not to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span>
+live in. His anxiety to keep his Order from becoming
+a contemplative one is shown in the following rule
+he carefully thought out for his disciples. "Those
+religious who desire to sojourn in a hermitage are to
+be at the most three or four. Two are to be like
+mothers having a son. Two are to follow the life of
+a Martha, the other the life of a Mary." Then they
+were to go forth again strenuously to their work abroad
+and give place to others in search of rest and peace.</p>
+
+<p>But after the death of St. Francis the Carceri
+gradually lost its primitive use, and the principal person
+who entirely changed its character was St. Bernardine
+of Siena who in 1320 made many alterations
+and additions, building a larger chapel, adding cells
+and a kitchen, but so small, remarks a discontented
+franciscan chronicler, that it barely held the cooking
+utensils. Although we can no longer call it a hermitage,
+the Carceri became the type of an ideal franciscan
+convent such as Francis dreamed of for his followers
+when he went to live at the Portiuncula, and such it
+has remained to this day. For certainly the place, as
+left by St. Bernardine, would have been approved of
+by the first franciscans as a dwelling-place, but those
+of later years can only tell us of its discomforts. Here
+is a graphic description of its primeval simplicity which
+very nearly corresponds to its present state: "It were
+better called a grotto with six lairs; one sees but the
+naked rock untouched by the chisel, all rough and full
+of holes as left by nature; those who see it for the first
+time are seized with extraordinary fear on climbing the
+ladder leading to the dormitory, at each end of which
+are other poor buildings, added by the religious according
+as need arose for the use of the friars, who do
+not care to live as hermits did in the olden times. The
+refectory is small, and can contain but few friars; a
+brother guardian made an excavation, of sufficient
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span>
+height and breadth in the rock, and added thereto a
+table around which can sit other six religious, so that
+those who take their places at this new table are
+huddled up in the arched niche which forms a baldaquin
+above their heads. There is also a little common
+room which horrifies all beholders, wherein is lit a fire,
+for besides being far inside the rocky mass it is gloomy
+beyond description by reason of the dense smoke
+always enclosed therein, this is a lively cause to the
+religious of reflection on the hideousness and obscurity
+of the darkness of hell; in lieu of receiving comfort
+from the fire the poor friars generally come out with
+tears in their eyes." To somewhat atone for these discomforts
+they possessed a fountain, raised, as we are
+told, by the prayers of St. Francis, which never ran
+dry, "a miracle God has wished to perpetuate for the
+glory of His faithful servants and the continual comfort
+of the monks."</p>
+
+<p>The crucifixion in the chapel built by St. Bernardine
+adjoining the choir, is said to have been painted by his
+orders. The artistic merits of the fresco are questionable,
+but connected with it is a legend possibly invented
+by some humorous member of the franciscan brotherhood
+in order to point a moral to his companions.
+"Here," says a chronicler, "is adored that most
+marvellous crucifixion, so famous in religion; it is well
+known to have spoken several times to the devout Sister
+Diomira Bini of the Third Order of St. Francis and a
+citizen of Assisi; and in our own times, in the last
+century (the seventeenth) it was seen by Brother
+Silvestro dello Spedalicchio to detach itself from the
+cross, and with most gentle slaps on the face, warn a
+worshipper to be reverent and vigilant while praying in
+this His Sacred Oratory."</p>
+
+<p>In a small wooden cupboard in the chapel, according
+to an inventory made two hundred years ago, are preserved
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span>
+some relics, a few of which we have unfortunately
+not been able to identify. Part of the wooden pillow
+used by St. Francis, and a piece of the Golden Gate
+through which our Lord passed into Jerusalem, are still
+here, but the hair of the Virgin, and, strangest of all,
+some of the earth out of which God created Adam,
+are no longer to be found!</p>
+
+<p class="p2">Ten or twelve friars continued to live at the Carceri
+for a few years after the death of St. Bernardine;
+some begged their daily bread from the villagers in the
+valley, others dug in the tiny garden at the foot of the
+ravine where a few vegetables grew, and two always
+remained at the convent to spin the wool for the
+habits of the religious. But soon wearying of the life
+they went to live at other convents, and the place passed
+away from the franciscans into the possession of various
+sects, among others to the excommunicated Fraticelli.
+In 1415 it was given back to the Observants, and
+Paolo Trinci, who had done much to reform the Order,
+persuaded some friars to live once more at the deserted
+hermitage. Again the Carceri became such an ideal
+franciscan convent that many came from afar to visit
+it, and there is a strange story of how a "woman
+monk" found a home and died here in the middle of
+the fifteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>"Beata Anonima," a chronicler recounts, "being
+already a Cistercian nun in the convent of S. Cerbone
+of Lucca at the time of the siege of that city by the
+Florentines, when the said nuns, for valid reasons,
+were transferred to the convent of Sta. Christina inside
+the city. Now this most fervent servant of God took this
+opportune time and fled by stealth, disguised as a man,
+and went, or rather flew, to Assisi; there, fired with
+an ardent desire to fight under the seraphic standard,
+she breathlessly climbed the steep slopes of Mount
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span>
+Subasio, and having found the horrible cavern of Santa
+Maria delle Carceri fervently entreated those good
+Fathers to admit her amongst them and to bestow on
+her their sacred habit, for which her longing was
+extreme. At length, having overcome all resistance,
+believing her to be a man as appeared from her dress,
+and not a woman which in reality she was, they admitted
+her to the convent and gave her the habit of religion."
+She edified all by the holiness of her life and the
+rigid penances she performed, but her health soon
+suffered and only upon her death-bed, surrounded by
+the friars chanting the psalms for the dying, the Blessed
+Anonima confessed to the fraud she had practised in
+order to dwell in the hermitage rendered so dear
+because of the memory of the Poverello d'Assisi.</p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">Rivo-Torto</span><a name="FNanchor_53" id="FNanchor_53" href="#Footnote_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a></p>
+
+<p>A straight and stony road, the old Roman one, now
+overgrown in many parts with grass and trails of ivy
+and bordered by mulberry and oak trees, leads out
+of the Porta Mojano to two little chapels in the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span>
+plain. Set back from the main road in the midst of
+the fields few people find them, and the peasants know
+nothing of their story and can only tell of a miraculous
+well in which a youthful saint met his death.
+When his body was brought to the surface a lily had
+grown from his mouth and upon its petals was written
+in letters of gold the one word, <i>Veritas</i>, for he had
+died in the cause of truth. Since then, as the peasants
+recount with pride, many come from afar to drink of
+the waters of this well for it cures every ill. It is
+over-grown with ferns and close by stands an ancient
+sarcophagus where the children sit to eat their midday
+meal. A piece of old worn sculpture still ornaments
+the chapel of the young martyr, and the feeling of the
+place is very charming, but the pilgrim who comes to
+Assisi to visit St. Francis, has a different picture to
+recall with another kind of beauty belonging to it than
+that of holy wells and flowering banks and meadows.</p>
+
+<p>It is difficult, when looking on San Rufino d'Arce,
+with its cluster of vine-shaded peasant houses, and
+then on Santa Maria Maddalena, narrow windowed,
+the small apse marking it as a primitive Umbrian
+chapel of the fields, to realise that in the Middle Ages
+this was a leper village separated from Assisi by a little
+more than a mile of open country. And yet here,
+without doubt, we have Rivo-Torto where, even
+before his famous interview with Innocent III, St.
+Francis had stayed with those three first Assisan
+companions, Bernard di Quintavalle, Peter Cataneo
+and Egidio. Then in the autumn of 1210, when he
+returned from Rome after the rule of poverty had
+been sanctioned by the Church, but before he was
+ready to begin his mission as preacher, he came to live
+among the lepers, forming with his disciples a little
+family which we may call the beginning of a first
+franciscan settlement.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The leper village was divided according to the social
+rank of the outcasts, the richer living together near the
+chapel of Sta. Maria Maddalena and forming quite a
+community with the right of freely administering their
+own goods. As M. Sabatier observes, it was therefore
+not "only a hospital, but almost a little town
+near the city with the same social distinctions of
+classes."</p>
+
+<p>Those tended by St. Francis were the poorest of the
+lepers, whose wretched hovels lay near the chapel of
+San Rufino d'Arce; and Celano must be referring to
+this settlement when he tells us how Francis in his
+early days, even if he chanced to look down from
+Assisi upon the houses of the lepers in the plain, would
+hold his nostrils with his hand, because his horror of
+them was so great.</p>
+
+<p>But as the grace of God touched his heart, making
+him take pity upon all things weak and suffering, he
+turned the force of his strong nature to overcoming this
+repugnance, and there is a beautiful story telling of the
+first victory gained shortly after his conversion. While
+riding one day near Assisi he met a leper, and filled
+with disgust and even fear at the sight, his first impulse
+was to turn his horse round, but, remembering his new
+resolutions to follow the teaching of Christ, he went
+forward to meet the poor man, and even kissed the
+hand extended to him for alms. "Then," says St.
+Bonaventure, "having mounted his horse, he looked
+around him over the wide and open plain, but the leper
+was nowhere to be seen. And Francis being filled
+with wonder and gladness, devoutly gave thanks to
+God, purposing within himself to proceed to still
+greater things than this." Certainly the event
+heralded a life of holiness, and was the means of
+rousing his latent energies and the feelings for self-sacrifice
+which drove him from the wild and solitary
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span>
+places he loved into the very midst of the world, there
+to work strenuously, in every part of Italy, at first
+among lepers and then among the wealthy, the ignorant
+and the sorrowful.</p>
+
+<p>For the life at Rivo-Torto led by "these valiant
+despisers of the great and good things of this world"
+we cannot do better than turn to the Three Companions
+(Brothers Masseo, Ruffino and Leo) who
+knew by personal experience the hardships and roughness
+of the place. Feelingly they describe: "a hovel,
+or rather a cavern abandoned by man; the which place
+was so confined that they could hardly sit down to
+repose themselves. Many a time they had no bread,
+and ate nought but turnips which they begged for here
+and there in travail and in anguish. On the beams of
+the poor hut the man of God wrote the names of the
+brethren, so that whoso would repose or pray might
+know his place and not disturb, by reason of the
+cramped and limited space in the small hovel, the
+quietude of the night." Even the appearance of
+Otto IV, close to their hut seems in no way to
+have disturbed the peaceful course of their lives, but
+only gave St. Francis the opportunity of bestowing
+a timely warning upon the Emperor. Celano, ever
+delighting in the picturesque details of ceremonies and
+pageants, tells us how "there came at that time with
+much noise and pomp the great Emperor on his way
+to take the terrestrial crown of the Empire; now the
+most holy father with his companions being in the said
+house near the road where the cavalcade was passing,
+would neither go out to see it, nor permit his brethren
+to go, save one, whom he commanded fearlessly to
+announce to Otto that his glory would be short-lived."</p>
+
+<p>Thus, if the tale be true, a German Emperor was
+the first to listen to Francis' message to a mediæval
+world sunk in the love of earthly things, and who
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span>
+knows whether the saint's words did not come back
+to Otto again in after years.</p>
+
+<p>The Penitents of Assisi only remained until the
+spring at Rivo-Torto, for even during those few
+months' sojourn among the lepers their numbers had
+so increased that it became necessary to think of some
+surer abode. One day St. Francis called the brethren
+to tell them how he had thought of obtaining from one
+of his various kind friends in Assisi, a small chapel
+where they could peacefully say their Hours, having
+some poor little houses for shelter close by built of
+wattle and mud.</p>
+
+<p>His speech was pleasing to the brethren, and so,
+following the master they loved and trusted, all
+went to dwell at the Portiuncula, where, as we shall
+see, a new life was to begin for them.</p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">The Portiuncula</span></p>
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<p class="o1">"Holy of Holies is this Place of Places,</p>
+<p>Meetly held worthy of surpassing honour!</p>
+<p>Happy thereof the surname, 'Of the Angels,'</p>
+<p>Happier yet the name, 'The Blessed Mary.'</p>
+</div>
+<div class="stanza">
+<p>Now, a true omen, the third name conferreth</p>
+<p>'The Little Portion' on the Little Brethren,</p>
+<p>Here, where by night a presence oft of Angels</p>
+<p>Singing sweet hymns illumineth the watches."</p>
+<p class="o2">(<i>The Mirror of Perfection</i>, translated by Sebastian Evans.)</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<p>Those who want to realise the charm of the Portiuncula
+and of the memories that cling about it, must
+try to forget the great church which shuts out from it
+the sunlight, and with the early chroniclers as their
+guides, call up the image of St. Francis with his first
+disciples who in an age of unrest came here to seek
+for peace.</p>
+
+<p>Make your pilgrimage in the springtime or in the
+early summer, when pink hawthorn and dogroses are
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span>
+flowering in every hedge and the vines fill the valley
+with a delicate green light. Looking at cities and
+villages so purely Umbrian, some spread among cornfields
+close to a swift clear river, others set upon
+heights which nearly touch the sky on stormy days,
+we forget that beyond these hills and mountains
+encircling the big valley of Umbria stretch other lands
+as fair. We forget, because it is a little world which
+during long centuries has been set apart from all else, and
+where man has but completed the work of nature herself.
+During the long hours of a summer's day, when
+the sense of remoteness in the still plain is most intense,
+it brings to us, as nothing else can ever do, some feeling
+of that early time when four hermits came from
+Palestine and found a quiet retreat in the oak forests
+of Assisi.</p>
+
+<p>It was in the year 352, as St. Cyril, Patriarch of
+Jerusalem, relates, when a cross had been seen stretched
+from Calvary to the Mount of Olives and to shine
+more brightly than the sun, that four holy men, impelled
+by a feeling that some great crisis was at hand, determined
+to visit the shrines of Rome. Having performed
+their devotions and offered many precious relics
+to Pope Liberius, they expressed a great desire to find
+some hermitage where, each in a silent cell, they could
+meditate upon the marvellous things they had seen in
+the Eternal City. The Pope gave them most excellent
+advice when he told them to go to the Spoletan
+valley. With his sanction to choose any part of it they
+liked, they passed over the mountains dividing Umbria
+from the Campagna, and by many towns until, when
+about a mile from Assisi, they determined to build their
+dwellings in the plain, thinking, as indeed they might,
+to find no other spot so suited for a quiet retreat.
+Close to four huts of rough hewn stone and brushwood
+they erected a tiny chapel with a pent roof and narrow
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span>
+window which, perhaps in memory of their native
+valley, they dedicated to St. Mary of Jehosaphat.
+But after a few years, forsaking the life of hermits,
+they again took up their staves and returned home to
+Palestine by way of the Romagna, leaving beneath the
+altar of the chapel they had built a relic of the
+Virgin's sepulchre.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo115" id="illo115"></a>
+<img src="images/illus115.jpg" width="450" height="344" alt="SIDE DOOR OF THE PORTIUNCULA BUILT BY ST. BENEDICT"  />
+<p class="caption">SIDE DOOR OF THE PORTIUNCULA BUILT BY ST. BENEDICT</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>At different times other devout hermits, charmed by
+the lonely chapel, took possession of it for a time, but
+it was often deserted for many years. Its preservation
+is due to St. Benedict who, passing through Umbria
+during the early part of the sixth century, was inspired
+to restore the ruined chapel and dwell near it for awhile.
+He not only repaired the walls, but built the two large
+round arched doors we see to this day, and which
+many declare to be quite out of proportion to the rest
+of the building, but their unusual size is accounted for
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span>
+by a charming legend. Once when St. Benedict was
+praying in the chapel he saw a marvellous vision as he
+knelt wrapt in ecstasy. A crowd of people were praying
+around him to St. Francis, singing hymns of praise
+and calling for mercy on their souls, while outside still
+greater multitudes waited for their turn to come and
+pray before the shrine. St. Benedict, understanding
+from this that a great saint would one day be honoured
+here, made the two doors in the chapel, and made them
+large enough for many to pass in and out at a time.
+Thus was the feast of the "Pardon of St. Francis"
+prepared for some seven hundred years too soon.</p>
+
+<p>St. Benedict obtained from the Assisans the gift of
+a small plot of ground near the sanctuary, which suggested
+to him the name of St. Mary of the Little
+Portion&mdash;Sta. Maria della Portiuncula. When a few
+years later St. Benedict founded his famous order at
+Monte Cassino, he did not forget the Umbrian chapel
+he had saved from ruin, and sent some of his monks
+to live there and to minister among the people. Like
+the first hermits they lived in poor huts, saying their
+Hours in the little chapel, until in the eleventh century
+they built a large monastery and church upon the
+higher slopes of Mount Subasio to the east of Assisi,
+and the Portiuncula was again deserted. But although
+no one lived near, and mass was never celebrated there,
+it still remained in the keeping of the benedictines
+who occasionally must have seen to its repair, and thus
+preserved it for the coming of St. Francis.</p>
+
+<p class="p2">It has been suggested to me that the spot selected
+by the four holy pilgrims in the fourth century may
+have been even then the site of a sacred shrine, for
+the custom of erecting tabernacles over the graves of
+distinguished persons reaches back to very early times.
+Originally designed as a mortuary cell such a structure
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span>
+might, being duly oriented, come to be used as a chapel
+for service.</p>
+
+<p>The subject of "Sepulchral Cellæ" will be found
+treated of by the late Sir Samuel Fergusson<a name="FNanchor_54" id="FNanchor_54" href="#Footnote_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> in a
+memoir in which he figures some of the burial vaults
+and early oratories of Ireland, some of which are in
+shape identical with Sta. Maria della Portiuncula, with
+the same pent roof, round arched door, and perfectly
+plain walls. A building thus erected over a grave was
+called <i>Porticulus</i>, and any who pillaged "a house made
+in form of a basilica over a dead person" had to pay a
+fine.</p>
+
+<p>From an archæological point of view there is much
+to be desired in the published descriptions of the Portiuncula.
+A great part of its exterior walls is now covered
+with frescoes which hide all detail, but perhaps a minute
+examination of the interior walls might reveal portions
+of the foundations built upon by St. Benedict, and we
+sincerely hope that these few words may attract attention
+to so interesting a subject.</p>
+
+<p>But even if the shrine said to have been built by the
+hermits from Palestine for Our Lady's Girdle turns out
+to have been an ancient tomb, the later legends are by no
+means destroyed. It is not unlikely that St. Benedict,
+attracted as much by lonely places as St. Francis, took
+possession of the Umbrian tomb, and perhaps little
+thinking what it was, rebuilt and used it as a chapel.
+Whatever may be the true story, it is very certain that
+the Portiuncula, from earliest times, has possessed a
+strange attraction for all who passed by, each one
+thinking a tiny chapel situated so charmingly in the
+woods, within sight, though not within sound, of the
+Umbrian towns, to be a perfect spot for prayer.
+
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The country people treasure the legend that Madonna
+Pica often came to pray at the Portiuncula, and through
+the intercession of the Blessed Virgin obtained a son
+after seven years of waiting, and this son of prayer and
+patience was St. Francis of Assisi.</p>
+
+<p>Half ruined and neglected as the chapel was, Francis
+learned, even as quite a child, to love it, and kneeling
+therein by his mother's side would pray with all the
+fervour of his childish faith. Later in life when he had
+turned from the mad follies of his youth to follow in the
+footsteps of Christ, he remembered the shrine he had
+loved in childhood, and would pass many nights there
+in prayer and bitter meditation upon the Passion. At
+last touched by the sight of its crumbling walls, he
+set himself the task of repairing them, working so busily
+with stones and mortar that the chapel soon regained
+its former simple beauty. The Benedictines of Mount
+Subasio, touched by his ungrudging labour and piety,
+arranged with an Assisan priest to celebrate mass at
+the Portiuncula from time to time, and this fact drew
+the young saint there still oftener.</p>
+
+<p>Then followed his time of ministry among the
+lepers of San Rufino d'Arce, when day by day so
+many disciples came to enlist in this new army of
+working beggars that the little hut in the leper-village
+could no longer hold them, and Francis
+had to think of some means of housing the brethren, and
+obtaining, what he had often desired, a chapel wherein
+they could say the Hours. (The saint, we may be
+sure, always said his office in the woods.) But evidently
+he had no particular place in his mind, not
+even his beloved Portiuncula, for he went first to
+his friend Guido, Bishop of Assisi, and then to
+the canons of San Rufino to ask if they could help
+him. They only answered that they had no church
+to dispose of, and could offer no advice upon the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span>
+subject. Then sorrowfully, like a man begging
+from door to door, St. Francis climbed Mount
+Subasio to lay his request in piteous terms before
+the benedictine abbot, where he met with more
+success. Brother Leo tells us that the abbot was
+"moved to pity, and after taking counsel with his
+monks, being inspired by divine grace and will,
+granted unto the Blessed Francis and his brethren
+the church of St. Mary of the Little Portion, as
+being the smallest and poorest church they possessed.
+And the abbot said to the Blessed Francis,
+'Behold Brother, we grant what thou desirest. But
+should the Lord multiply thy brotherhood we will
+that this place shall be the mother-house of thy
+Order.'"<a name="FNanchor_55" id="FNanchor_55" href="#Footnote_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a></p>
+
+<p>With a willing heart Francis promised what the
+abbot asked, and further insisted upon paying rent
+for the Portiuncula, because he wished his followers
+always to bear in mind the point of his rule, which
+he so often dwelt upon, namely, that they owned no
+property whatever, but were only in this world as
+pilgrims. So every year two of his brethren brought
+to the gate of the benedictine monastery a basket
+full of roach caught in the Chiaggio which flows
+at no great distance from the Portiuncula, and the
+abbot, smiling at the simplicity of Francis, who
+had imagined yet another device for humility, gave
+back a vessel full of oil in exchange for the gift of
+fish.<a name="FNanchor_56" id="FNanchor_56" href="#Footnote_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span></p>
+
+<p>With great rejoicing St. Francis set to work building
+cells of a most simple pattern, with walls of wattle
+and dab, and thatched with straw, each brother inscribing
+his name upon a portion of the mud floor set
+apart for him to rest in. "And no sooner had they
+come to live here," writes Brother Leo, "than the
+Lord multiplied their number day by day, and the
+sweet scent of their good name spread marvellously
+abroad throughout all the Spoletan valley, and in
+many parts of the world."</p>
+
+<p>It was thus that St. Mary of the Little Portion,
+henceforth to be the nucleus of the franciscan order,
+and a place familiar to pilgrims from far and near for
+many succeeding centuries, came into the keeping of St.
+Francis in the year 1211, about nine months after
+Innocent III had sanctioned his work among the
+people of Italy.</p>
+
+<p>St. Francis and the brethren had been but a year
+in their new abode when a figure passed in among
+them for a moment and then was gone, leaving, as
+a vision to haunt them to their dying day, the memory
+of her beauty and soul's purity.</p>
+
+<p>Never in the history of any saint has there been
+so touching and wondrous a scene as when the young
+Clare left her father's palace in Assisi to take the
+vows of perpetual and voluntary poverty at the altar
+of the Portiuncula. Followed by two trembling
+women, she passed swiftly through the town in the
+dead of night, across the fields by the slumbering
+village of Valecchio, and through dark woods made
+more sombre by the starry Umbrian sky which at
+intervals gleamed between the wide-spreading branches
+of the oak trees. The hurrying figure of the young
+girl, swathed in a long mantle, seemed like some
+spirit driven by winds towards an unknown future.
+One thing alone was clear to her, she was nearing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span>
+the abode of Francis Bernardone whose preaching
+at San Giorgio only a month before had so thrilled
+her, inspiring her in this strange way to seek the
+life he had described in such fiery words. And just
+as she came in sight of the Portiuncula the chanting
+of the brethren, which had reached her in the wood,
+suddenly ceased, and they came out with lighted torches
+in expectation of her coming. Swiftly and without a
+word she passed in to attend the midnight mass which
+Francis was to serve.</p>
+
+<p>The ceremony was simple, wherein lies the charm
+of all things franciscan. The service over and the
+last blessing given, St. Francis led Clare towards the
+altar and with his own hands cut off her long fair
+hair and unclasped the jewels from her neck. But
+a few minutes more and a daughter of the proud
+house of Scifi stood clothed in the brown habit of
+the order, the black veil of religion falling about her
+shoulders, lovelier far in this nun-like severity than
+she had been when decked out in all her former luxury
+of silken gowns and precious gems.</p>
+
+<p>It was arranged that Clare was to go afterwards
+to the benedictine nuns of San Paolo near Bastia,
+about an hour's walk further on in the plain. So
+when the final vows had been taken, St. Francis
+took her by the hand and they passed out of the
+chapel together just as dawn was breaking, while
+the brethren returned to their cells gazing half sadly
+as they passed, at the coils of golden hair and the
+little heap of jewels which still lay upon the altar
+cloth.</p>
+
+<p class="p2">Those early days at the Portiuncula were among
+the most important of Francis' life; dreams which
+had come to him while he spent long hours in the
+caves and woods near Assisi were to be fully realised,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span>
+and the work he felt inspired to perform was to be
+carried out in the busy villages and cities of Italy
+and even further afield. All this was now very
+clear to Francis, and more than ever anxious to keep
+the simplicity of his order untouched, he taught his
+followers, in words which fell so gently yet so
+earnestly from his lips, that they were to toil without
+ceasing, and restlessly and without pause to wander
+from castle to castle, from city to city, in search of
+those who needed help. It may therefore at first seem
+strange that the "Penitents of Assisi" owning nothing
+but the peace within their hearts, desiring no better
+place for prayer than a cavern in some mountain gorge,
+should establish themselves near a chapel which, if
+not nominally their own, was practically regarded
+as the property of the Friars Minor. But in this
+again we feel the wisdom and tenderness of the saint
+for his little community. With all the fervour and
+fire of enthusiasm which impelled him like a living
+force to seek his end, he well knew that without
+some place in which to meet together and rest awhile,
+his followers, who however much imbued with his
+ardent spirit were but mortal men, would very likely
+fall away from the high ideal he had set before them.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the Portiuncula became to the brethren as
+a nest, where like tired birds that long had been upon
+the wing, they could return after much wandering to
+peaceful thoughts, to prayer and quiet labour.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a></span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo123" id="illo123"></a>
+<img src="images/illus123.jpg" width="650" height="438" alt="THE PORTIUNCULA IN THE TIME OF ST. FRANCIS (FROM THE &quot;COLLIS PARADISI&quot;)."  />
+<p class="caption">THE PORTIUNCULA IN THE TIME OF ST. FRANCIS (FROM THE &quot;COLLIS PARADISI&quot;).</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is not very difficult, with the print from the "Collis
+Paradisi"<a name="FNanchor_57" id="FNanchor_57" href="#Footnote_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> before us, and the remembrance of the large
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span>
+oaks which still mark the ancient Roman roads leading
+from Assisi to the plain, to call up the picture of
+the strange franciscan hamlet clustering round a pent-roofed
+chapel, and with only trees for a convent wall.
+What a life of peace in the mud huts! what a life of
+turmoil and angry strife raging in the city just in
+sight!</p>
+
+<p>The spirit of those days, when monachism meant all
+that was purely ideal and beautiful, seems to live again.
+Then, day and night, each brother strove to fit himself
+for the work he had in view, drawing into his soul
+the peace and love he learned from nature herself as
+the forest leaves rustled above his cell or the nightingales
+accompanied the midnight office with their song.
+And when his turn came to take up the pilgrim's staff
+and follow the lead of Francis, he went with cheerfulness
+to bring to the people some of that child-like
+joy and lightness of heart which marked the Little
+Brethren through whatever land they wandered as the
+disciples of St. Francis.</p>
+
+<p>Let us for a moment leave the Umbrian valley for
+the country near Oxford, where on a bitter Christmas
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span>
+Day, two friars were journeying upon their first mission
+to England.</p>
+
+<p>"Going into a neighbouring wood they picked their
+way along a rugged path over the frozen mud and hard
+snow, whilst blood stained the track of their naked feet
+without their perceiving it. The younger friar said
+to the elder: 'Father, shall I sing and lighten our
+journey?' and on receiving permission he thundered
+forth a Salve Regina misericordiæ.... Now, when
+the hymn was concluded ... he who had been the
+consoler said, with a kind of self congratulation to his
+companion: 'Brother, was not that antiphonal well
+sung?'"</p>
+
+<p>In this simple story, told us in the chronicle of
+Lanercost, how true rings the franciscan note struck
+by Francis in those early days at the Portiuncula.
+He was for ever telling the brethren not to show
+sorrowful faces to one another, saying, as recorded by
+Brother Leo: "Let this sadness remain between God
+and thyself, and pray to Him that of His mercy He
+may forgive thee, and restore to thy soul His healthy
+joyance whereof He deprived thee as a punishment
+for thy sins."</p>
+
+<p>It is all so long ago, and yet in reading those ancient
+chronicles the big church of the Angeli is for a time
+forgotten, and only the vision of the Portiuncula and
+the mud huts, with the brethren ever to and fro upon
+the road, remains with us as a strange picture in our
+modern hurried life.</p>
+
+<p>But although the brethren lived so quietly in this
+retreat of still repose, St. Francis, ever watching over
+the welfare of his flock, was careful that prayer and
+meditation should never be an excuse for idleness,
+which of all vices he most abhorred. Therefore he
+encouraged each friar who in the world had followed
+some trade, to continue it here; so we hear of Beato
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span>
+Egidio, on his return from one of his long journeys,
+seated at the door of his hut busily employed in making
+rush baskets, while Brother Juniper, in those rare
+moments when he was out of mischief, would pass his
+time in mending sandals with an awl he kept up his
+sleeve for the purpose. Besides these individual occupations
+there was much to attend to even in such humble
+dwellings as those round the Portiuncula. Sometimes
+there were sick friars to nurse, or vegetables had to be
+planted in the orchard and provisions to be obtained,
+while the office of doorkeeper, as "Angels" came
+perpetually to ask pertinent questions of the brethren,
+became quite a laborious task. When it fell to Brother
+Masseo to answer the door he had little peace. Upon
+one occasion he went in haste to see who was making
+such a noise and found a "fair youth clothed as though
+for a journey," so he spoke somewhat roughly, and
+the youth enquired how knocking should be done.
+"Give three knocks," quoth Brother Masseo, little
+dreaming he was instructing an angel in the art of
+knocking, "with a brief space between each knock,
+then wait until the brother has time to say a paternoster
+and to come unto thee; and if at the end of that time
+he does not come knock once again."</p>
+
+<p>Things went smoothly enough when left to the
+management of such friars as Leo, Masseo or Rufino,
+but when one day the office of cook fell to Juniper,
+that dear jester of the brotherhood, we get a humorous
+picture of what his companions sometimes had to
+endure, and of the kindness with which they pardoned
+all shortcomings. The brethren had gone out, and
+Juniper being left alone devised an excellent plan
+whereby the convent might be supplied with food
+for a fortnight, and thus the cook have more time
+for prayer. "With all diligence," it is related in
+the <i>Fioretti</i>, "he went into the village and begged
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span>
+for several large cooking-pots, obtained fresh meat
+and bacon, fowls, eggs and herbs, also he begged a
+quantity of firewood, and placed all these upon the
+fire, to wit, the fowls with their feathers on, the eggs
+in their shells, and the rest in like fashion." When
+the brethren came home, one that was well acquainted
+with the simplicity of Brother Juniper went into the
+kitchen, and seeing so many and such large pots on
+a great fire, sat down amazed without saying a word,
+and watched with what anxious care Brother Juniper
+did this cooking. Because of the fierceness of the
+fire he could not well get near to skim the pots, so
+he took a plank and tied it with a rope tight to his
+body and sprang from one pot to the other, so that
+it was a joy to see him. Contemplating all with great
+delight, this brother went forth from the kitchen and
+finding the other brothers, said: "In sooth I tell you,
+Brother Juniper is making a marriage feast."</p>
+
+<p>Then in hurried Juniper, all red with his exertions
+and the heat of the fire, explaining the excellent plan
+he had devised; and as he set his mess upon the table
+he praised it, saying: "Now these fowls are nourishing
+to the brain, this stew will refresh the body, it is so
+good"; but the stew remained untasted, for, says the
+<i>Fioretti</i>, "there is no pig in the land of Rome so
+famished that he would eat of it."</p>
+
+<p>At the end of any foolish adventure Brother Juniper
+would always ask pardon with such humility that he
+edified his companions and all the people he came in
+contact with, instead of annoying them with his childish
+pranks. His goodness was manifest, and St. Francis
+was often heard to say to those who wished to reprove
+him after one of his wildest frolics, "would
+that I had a whole forest of these junipers."</p>
+
+<p>Between the men who lived at the Portiuncula with
+the saint, and those who in later times ruled large convents
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span>
+in the cities, the contrast is so great that we would
+wish to draw still further from these inexhaustible
+chronicles which reveal so charmingly the life of
+these Umbrian friars. But to tell of all the events
+connected with the Portiuncula would mean recounting
+the history of the whole franciscan brotherhood, and
+we must now pass over many years to that saddest
+year of all, when St. Francis was brought to die in the
+place he had so carefully tended.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo129" id="illo129"></a>
+<img src="images/illus129.jpg" width="505" height="220" alt="ASSISI FROM THE PLAIN"  />
+<p class="caption">ASSISI FROM THE PLAIN</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Knowing that he had but a few more weeks of life,
+he begged the brethren to find some means to carry
+him away from the Bishop's Palace at Assisi where
+he had been staying some time. "Verily," he told them
+pathetically, "because of my very infirmity I cannot
+go afoot"; so they carried him in their arms down
+the hill to the plain, and when they came to the
+hospital of San Salvatore dei Crociferi they laid him
+gently down upon the ground with his face towards
+Assisi, because he desired to bless the town for the last
+time before he died.</p>
+
+<p>The blind saint, lifting his hand in blessing, pronounced
+these words dear to the hearts of the Assisans
+to this day: "Blessed be thou of the Lord, O city,
+faithful to God, because through thee many souls shall
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span>
+be saved. The servants of the Most High shall dwell
+in great numbers within thy walls, and many of thy
+sons shall be chosen for the realms of heaven."</p>
+
+<p>Then they carried him to the hut nearest the
+Portiuncula which was the infirmary, and here his last
+days were passed.<a name="FNanchor_58" id="FNanchor_58" href="#Footnote_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> Although he suffered acutely, they
+were days of marvellous peace and joy. It is beautiful
+to read how, with his usual tenderness, he thought
+of the brethren he was leaving to carry on the work
+without him, encouraging them all as they stood weeping
+round his bed. Like Isaac of old, the Umbrian
+patriarch blessed his first born, Bernard of Quintavalle,
+saying: "Come my little son that my soul may bless
+thee before I die," while he enjoined upon all to love
+and honour Bernard, who had been the first to listen
+to his words now so many years ago. With all his
+sons near him St. Francis dictated his will, wherein
+he describes the way of life they were to lead, and
+which, coming from him at this solemn moment, must
+always remain as a precious message from the saint, in
+many ways of more importance than the Rule approved
+in his life-time by Pope Honorius. When this was
+done he commended once again to their special care
+the chapel of the Portiuncula. "I will," he said to
+them, "that for all times it be the mirror and good
+example of all religion, and as it were a lamp ever
+burning and resplendent before the throne of God and
+before the Blessed Virgin."</p>
+
+<p>The farewells to those of his immediate circle had
+been made and a letter written to St. Clare, and now
+he wished to bid "the most noble Roman matron,
+Madonna Giacoma dei Settesoli," one of his most
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span>
+devoted followers, to come and take leave of him at
+Assisi. The letter had only just been written when
+knocking at the door and the sound of horses trampling
+was heard outside, and the brethren going out to discover
+the cause of such unwonted noise found that
+Madonna Giacoma, accompanied by her sons, two
+Roman senators, had been inspired to come and visit
+the dying saint.</p>
+
+<p>The brethren, somewhat averse to allow a woman,
+even one so renowned for holiness as Madonna
+Giacoma, to enter their sacred precincts, called to
+St. Francis in their doubt: "Father, what shall be
+done? Shall we let her enter and come unto thee?"
+And the Blessed Francis said: "The regulation is to
+be set aside in respect to this lady whose great faith
+and devotion hath brought her hither from such far-off
+parts." So Madonna Giacoma came into the presence
+of the Blessed Francis weeping bitterly, and she
+brought with her the shroud-cloth, incense, and a
+great quantity of wax for the candles which were to
+burn before his body after death. She had even
+thought of some cakes made of almonds and sugar,
+known in Rome by the name of <i>mostaccioli</i>, which she
+had often made for him when he visited her. But the
+saint was fast failing, and could eat but little of the
+cakes.</p>
+
+<p>As the end came nearer his thoughts were drawn
+away from earth, and true to the last to his Lady
+Poverty, he caused himself to be laid naked on the
+ground as a token of his complete renouncement of the
+world. His face radiant with happiness, he kept asking
+his companions to recite the Canticle of the Sun, often
+joining in it himself or breaking forth into his favourite
+psalm <i>Voce mea ad Dominum Clamavi</i>.</p>
+
+<p>With words of praise and gladness the Blessed
+Francis of Assisi, the spouse of Poverty, died in a mud
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span>
+hut close to the shrine he loved, on the 3rd of October
+of 1226 in the forty-fifth year of his age.</p>
+
+<p>His soul was seen to ascend to heaven under the
+semblance of a star, but brilliant as the sun, upon clouds
+as white as snow. It was sunset, the hour when in
+Umbria after the stillness of a warm autumn day an
+unusual tremor passes through the land and all things
+in the valley and upon the hill-sides are stirred by it,
+when a flight of larks circled above the roof of the hut
+where the saint lay at rest. And these birds of light
+and gladness "seemed by their sweet singing to be in
+company with Francis praising the Lord God."</p>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">CHAPTER IV</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center b175"><i>The building of the Basilica and Convent of
+San Francesco. The Story of Brother
+Elias</i></p>
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>"O brother mine, O beautiful brother, O brother of love,
+build me a castle which shall have neither stone nor iron. O
+beautiful brother, build me a city which shall have neither
+wood nor stone."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Beato Egidio.</span></p>
+</div>
+<div>
+<img src="images/illus133_a.jpg" width="620" height="126" alt="" />
+<img src="images/illus133_b.jpg" width="360" height="216" alt="O"  class="c4b" />
+<img src="images/illus133_c.jpg" width="216" height="90" alt=""  class="c4" />
+<img src="images/illus133_d.jpg" width="162" height="180" alt=""  class="c4" />
+</div>
+<p>ne of the strangest characteristics
+of mediæval
+Italy was the rivalry between
+different towns to
+gain possession of the
+bodies of holy people.
+They did not even wait
+for the bull of canonisation
+to arrive from Rome, but often of
+their own accord placed the favoured
+being in the Calendar of Saints, and
+papal decrees merely ratified the choice of
+popular devotion. We have an example of
+this with the Perugians. Ever on the alert
+to increase the glory of their city, they
+hovered near the road St. Francis was to
+follow during his last illness when borne
+from Cortona to Assisi, meaning to carry
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span>
+him off by force so that he might die in Perugia.<a name="FNanchor_59" id="FNanchor_59" href="#Footnote_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a>
+Never at a loss for a way out of any difficulty Elias
+hastily changed the itinerary for the journey, and instead
+of the short way by lake Thrasymene he took the much
+longer and more difficult road by Gualdo and Nocera,
+far back in the mountains to the north of Assisi. He
+warned the Assisans of the peril run by the little company
+of friars with their sick father, and soldiers were
+immediately sent to escort them safely to the Bishop's
+Palace where St. Francis stayed until carried to the
+Portiuncula when he knew that he was dying.</p>
+
+<p>They were sad days at Assisi when St. Francis was
+borne through the city blind and ill; and as he
+stretched out his hands to bless the people they bowed
+their heads and wept at the sight of so much suffering.
+Now that the end had come and they knew he lay safely
+in the little shrine of the Portiuncula, their mourning
+was changed into rejoicing, and as though they were
+preparing for a great festival, strange sounds of busy
+talk, of laughter and of singing were heard in the
+streets. Had a stranger found himself at Assisi that
+Sunday morning he might well have asked: "What
+victory have you gained to merit all this show of gladness,
+or what emperor are you going forth to greet?"
+And the answer would have been: "Francis, our
+saint, the son of Bernardone, returned to us when he
+was nigh to death, and now that he is dead we possess
+his body which will bring great honour and fame to
+our city by reason of the many miracles to be wrought
+at his tomb."</p>
+
+<p>The sun had not yet risen when the Assisans left
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span>
+their houses and thronged down the hill to the Portiuncula
+to bring the precious burden to rest within the
+more certain refuge of their walled town. "Blessed
+and praised be the Lord our God who has entrusted
+to us, though unworthy, so great a gift. Praise and
+glory to the ineffable Trinity," they sang as they
+hurried along in the cold dawn. Trumpeters blew
+loud and discordant notes, nearly drowning the
+voices of the priests who vainly in the din tried to
+intone the canticles and psalms. The nobles came
+from their castles with lighted torches to join the
+procession, the peasants from the hills brought sprigs
+of olive, and those from the forests stripped the
+oaks of their finest branches which they waved above
+their heads, while children strewed the ground with
+flowers.</p>
+
+<p>Amidst all this stirring show of joy a kindly thought
+had been taken of St. Clare and her nuns, so that when
+the body of St. Francis had been laid in a coffin, and
+the long line of friars, priests and townsmen turned to
+climb the hill, they took a path skirting just below the
+town, through the vineyards and olive groves, to the
+convent of San Damiano. The sound of chanting must
+have warned the watchers of their approach long before
+they came in sight. An artist has pictured the nuns like
+a flock of timid sheep in his fresco, trooping out of an
+exquisitely marbled chapel, with St. Clare endeavouring
+to suppress her grief as she bends over the dead
+Francis, while the sisters press close behind her.
+This is how it ought to have been; but, alas, only
+an iron lattice, through which the nuns were wont
+to receive the Holy Communion, was opened for
+them, and the friars lifting the body of St. Francis
+from the coffin, held it in their arms at the opening
+as one by one the nuns came to kiss the pierced
+hands. "Madonna Chiara's" tears fell fast as she
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span>
+gazed on him who had brought such joy into her
+cloistered solitude. "Oh father, father," she murmured,
+"what are we to do now that thou hast
+abandoned us unhappy ones? With thee departs
+all consolation, for buried here away from the world
+there is none to console us." Restraining the lamentations
+which filled her heart she passed like a shadow
+out of sight to her cell, and when all the sisters had
+bidden farewell to St. Francis, the small window was
+closed "never again to open upon so sad a scene."</p>
+
+<p>The people, who until now had wept bitterly, began
+to sing again as the procession went on its way up the
+hill towards the Porta Mojano. The trumpets sounded
+louder than ever, and "with jubilation and great exultation"
+the sacred body was brought to the church of
+San Giorgio, where it was carefully laid in a marble
+urn covered with an iron grating, and guarded day and
+night from the prying eyes of the Perugians. If
+Francis had worked miracles during his life, those
+chronicled at his tomb are even more marvellous;
+in recounting some which read like fairy tales, a
+biographer recounts with pride that, "even from
+heaven, the Saint showed his courtesy to all."</p>
+
+<p>Devotion to St. Francis was not confined to
+Umbria or even to Italy, for we read how his fame
+spread throughout France, and how the King and
+Queen with all the barons of the land, came to Paris
+to kiss one of his relics. "People journeyed from
+the east and from the west," enthusiastically exclaims
+Celano with a total disregard of detail, "they came
+from the north and from the south, even the learned
+and the lettered who abounded in Paris at that time."</p>
+
+<p>But while France was being stirred by the news of
+perpetual miracles and prodigies wrought through the
+intercession of the saint, and Assisi in consequence
+was fast growing into a place of great importance
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span>
+in the world, Pope Gregory IX, who had been
+lately elected upon the death of Honorius III, spent
+many hours in the Cannonica at Perugia wrestling
+with his doubts concerning the truth of the greatest
+miracle of all, the miracle of the Stigmata. While
+in this state of uncertainty and perplexity St. Francis,
+the <i>Fioretti</i> relates, appeared to him one night, and
+showed him the five wounds inflicted by the Seraph
+upon his hands, feet and side. The vision, it seems,
+dispelled all doubt from the mind of Pope Gregory,
+for in conclave with the cardinals he proclaimed the
+sanctity of his friend, the Poverello d'Assisi, and
+determined to set the final seal of the church upon
+his miracles and fame.</p>
+
+<p>This vision was the prelude of a great ceremony held
+a few days later in San Giorgio for the canonisation of
+Francis, at which all Umbria seems to have been
+present. Pope Gregory, clothed in vestments of cloth
+of gold embroidered with precious stones, his tiara
+"almost as an aureole of sanctity about his head," sat
+stiffly on his pontifical throne like some carved image,
+surrounded by cardinals in crimson garments and bishops
+in white stoles. All eyes were fixed upon this splendid
+group, and it is not improbable that among the spectators
+stood Pietro Bernardone and Madonna Pica, and
+many who had reviled Francis in his early days of
+sanctity, and now, within two years of his death, witnessed
+him placed among the greatest of the saints.
+Gregory had prepared an eloquent address, which he
+delivered in a sonorous voice occasionally broken by
+sobs of emotion. Becoming more and more enthusiastic
+as he proceeded, he compared Francis to a full moon,
+a refulgent sun, a star rising above the morning mists,
+and when he had finished the pious homily, a sub-deacon
+read out a list of the saint's miracles, and a
+learned cardinal, "not without copious weeping," discoursed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span>
+thereon, while the Pope listened, shedding
+"rivers of tears," and breaking forth every now and
+then into deep-drawn sighs. The prelates wept so
+devoutly that their vestments were in great part wet,
+and the ground was drenched with their tears. The
+ceremony ended when the Pope rose to bless the
+people, and intoned the <i>Te Deum</i>, in which all joined
+with such good will that the "earth resounded in great
+jubilee."</p>
+
+<p>Had St. Francis foreseen how his humility would be
+rewarded? This we know, that he in part had realised
+how his order would slip away from his ideal, and
+there is a deep note of sadness in many pages of his
+life, showing us how fully he realised the pitfalls his
+disciples were likely to fall into when he was no longer
+there to watch over them with tender care. Often
+while he was absent for only a little time the brethren
+forgot his simple rule, building cells and houses too
+spacious and pretentious for the home of the Lady
+Poverty. This had been one of the signs to him that
+his earnest prayers to God, his example and admonitions
+to his followers, which come to us through his
+letters and the pages of Brother Leo like the cry of
+one who bravely fought against the inevitable, were all
+to be in vain. It is a tragic story, and rendered still
+more so by the fact that the Saint's last years should
+have been saddened by this knowledge of coming
+events.</p>
+
+<p>Only a little while and the teaching of poverty and
+obscurity which he had so deeply implanted in the
+hearts of his followers was to be completely swept
+away; upon the ruins of that first franciscan order,
+guarded jealously for a time by a faithful few, arose the
+new franciscan spirit which Elias Buonbarone, inspired
+by the will of Gregory IX, brought into being almost
+before the echo of his master's words had died away.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span>
+It is not for us in this small space to trace the many
+changes that crept into the young community, but we
+simply note as a fact, what to some may appear exaggerated,
+that the order St. Francis founded, and prayed
+would continue as he left it, ceased at his death, while
+the order that grew up afterwards bore the unmistakable
+stamp of Elias and the Vatican.</p>
+
+<p class="p2">The extraordinary humility of St. Francis gave rise
+to the myth that when he lay dying at the Portiuncula
+he expressed a strong desire to be buried in the most
+despised spot near Assisi, which, because criminals were
+said to have been executed there, bore the name of
+Colle del Inferno. It seems unlike him to have been
+concerned with what might become of "brother body"
+after death, and it was probably not until Gregory IX
+conceived the idea of building a church in honour of
+his friend, that a suitable burial-place was searched for
+near the walls of the town, if not actually within them,
+where the citizens could safely guard the precious
+relics. Everything favoured the designs of Gregory,
+for not only was he fortunate in finding a man like
+Elias, capable, prompt and energetic, but the one place
+suited for the erection of a great church, happened to
+be in the possession of a generous citizen of Assisi.
+No sooner were the wishes of the Pontiff made known
+than Simon Puzzarelli offered his land on the Collis
+Inferni, which from this time forward Gregory ordered
+to be called Collis Paradisi, the Hill of Paradise.<a name="FNanchor_60" id="FNanchor_60" href="#Footnote_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a></p>
+
+<p>A document, duly sealed and signed, is still in the
+Assisan archives, in which we read how the site for the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span>
+building of "an oratory or church for the most holy
+body of St. Francis" was given over, in words that
+admitted of no withdrawal, to Elias as representative of
+the Lord Pope Gregory IX&mdash;"dedit, tradedit, cesset,
+delegavit et donavit simpliciter et irrevocabiliter."
+Now the use of the word <i>oratory</i> is a remarkable
+fact as suggesting that at the beginning the Assisans
+little dreamed of the erection of a great basilica which
+would cast their cathedral entirely into the shade.</p>
+
+<p>A few days after the ceremony of the canonisation of
+St. Francis, Pope Gregory, amid the usual crowd of
+Umbrian spectators, laid the foundation-stone of the
+franciscan basilica. Then being recalled by his Roman
+subjects, whom Assisan chroniclers describe as "a race
+of men most seditious and fierce," he was obliged to
+hurry south, leaving Elias to carry out his wishes as he
+thought best.</p>
+
+<p>So far the task left to Elias was easy enough, for
+money was not lacking, and countless workmen were
+ready to begin the great enterprise; but the question of
+who should design a church upon the site chosen was
+a more difficult matter to settle, as Vasari tells us:
+"There was a great scarcity of good architects at this
+time, and the church, having to be built upon a very
+high hill, at the base of which flows a torrent called
+the Tescio, an excellent artist was required for the
+work. After much deliberation a certain Maestro
+Jacopo Tedesco was called to Assisi as being the best
+architect then to be found, and having examined the
+site, and consulted the wishes of the fathers, who were
+holding a Chapter in Assisi to discuss the matter, he
+designed the plan of a very beautiful church and
+convent."<a name="FNanchor_61" id="FNanchor_61" href="#Footnote_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a></p>
+
+<p>"Jacopo" is said to have come to Italy in the
+retinue of the Emperor Frederick II. Vasari recounts
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span>
+that the fame he gained all over Italy by his work at
+Assisi was so great that the Florentines summoned him
+to build them bridges and palaces, and "Jacopo,"
+charmed with the Tuscan city, married and dwelt
+there. The citizens, following a custom which still
+continues in every Italian town, changed his name to
+Lapo, and he is revealed to us as father of the famous
+Arnolfo di Lapo, architect of the Florentine cathedral
+and of the Palazzo della Signoria. In the seductive
+pages of Vasari the account reads so pleasantly that it
+seems a pity later writers should have discovered that
+the story rests upon uncertain dates and legends.
+Vasari's endeavour to amalgamate three artists into one
+person, have forced many to the opposite extreme,
+until even the existence of "Jacopo Tedesco" is
+denied, and they are reduced to speak of <i>an</i> architect
+who designed the church and convent of San Francesco.<a name="FNanchor_62" id="FNanchor_62" href="#Footnote_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a></p>
+
+<p>Such is the irony of fate, that while numerous
+documents remain giving the names of contractors
+and minor masons employed in the building there is
+absolutely no evidence or clue of any kind as to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span>
+the architect employed by Elias. We can only
+suppose that the document relating to this and other
+interesting points in connection with the decoration
+of the church, must have been destroyed by the
+Perugians when they sacked Assisi under Jacopo
+Piccinino and burnt so many treasures in the archives.
+We are consequently at the mercy of local legends,
+which were no doubt recounted to Vasari by the
+Assisans themselves when he visited the town in the
+middle of the sixteenth century. But there is still
+the evidence of our own eye to help us to know
+something of the builder of San Francesco, the
+builder of the first Gothic church in Italy. We
+are told he was a German; but then we know
+from Mr Fergusson's Handbook of Architecture
+that Germans were only just awakening to the
+Gothic influences at the time of St. Francis's death,
+and, when they wished to build churches in the
+new style they called in French masons to help them.
+Was it therefore likely that Germany should have
+given the mysterious architect to Assisi? A church
+recalling the Assisan Basilica may be vainly searched
+for in Germany or in Lombardy and this further fact
+inclines us to believe in the theory of M. Edouard
+Corroyer.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo143" id="illo143"></a>
+<img src="images/illus143.jpg" width="650" height="384" alt="CHURCH AND CONVENT OF SAN FRANCESCO"  />
+<p class="caption">CHURCH AND CONVENT OF SAN FRANCESCO</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Whether the man who conceived the original idea
+of raising one church above another flanked by a
+colonnaded convent on the spur of a great mountain
+was called Philip or James, or whether he came
+from a Lombard or a German province seems of
+small importance compared with the country where
+he learned his art. Even supposing "Jacopo" to
+have been a northern Italian from the home of the
+Comacine Guild of master masons, which is extremely
+likely, everything goes to prove that he must have
+drawn his inspiration for the Assisan Basilica straight
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span>
+from the south of France. What establishes the
+French parentage of San Francesco is the mode of
+construction, especially visible in the Upper Church,
+and which, as M. Corroyer says, "possesses all the
+characteristics peculiar to the French architecture in
+the south of France at the close of the thirteenth
+and the beginning of the fourteenth century, of which
+the Cathedral of Albi [in Aquitaine] is the most
+perfect type. The single nave, its buttresses projecting
+externally in the form of half turrets, add
+to the likeness of the Italian church of Assisi with
+that of Albi in France."<a name="FNanchor_63" id="FNanchor_63" href="#Footnote_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> A glance at the illustrations
+of the two churches will bear this theory out
+better than many words; and it will be seen at
+once that had the half turrets between the bay windows
+of San Francesco been completed with pointed
+roofs and small lancet windows, as no doubt was the
+intention, the likeness would be even more striking.</p>
+
+<p>Although "Jacopo" left a very substantial mark
+of his genius upon the Umbrian hill-side, he came
+and went like a shadow, leaving his designs and plans
+to be carried on by his young disciple Fra Filippo
+Campello, whom we shall meet with again in the
+chapter on Santa Chiara. Little, therefore, as we
+know of this earlier portion of its history, San Francesco
+at least remains to us in all its first prime
+and glory to tell its own tale, and endless should be
+the hymn of praise sung by the Assisans for the
+chance which brought so beautiful a creation within
+their walls.</p>
+
+<p>It seems indeed strange that a style so new and
+so admired, was not more faithfully adhered to at a
+time when cathedrals and churches were being erected
+in every Italian city. Perhaps the Romanesque and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span>
+Byzantine influences from the south so tempered the
+Gothic tendencies of Lombard architects, that they
+were unable to attain the true ideal, and succeeded
+only in creating a style of their own, to
+be found at Florence, Siena and Orvieto, known as
+Italian Gothic. Thus it happens that the Assisans
+are the proud possessors, not only of the first Gothic
+church built in Italy during the dawn of the new
+era, but of a church which is unique, as recalling
+less dimly than those of other cities the splendour
+of the northern cathedrals.</p>
+
+<p class="p2">The rapidity with which the Assisan Basilica progressed
+is one of the most wonderful results of the love
+inspired by St. Francis among mediæval Christians. The
+generosity of the Catholic world was so stirred that
+donations poured in without ceasing from Germany and
+France, and even from Jerusalem and Morocco. "Cardinals,
+bishops, dukes, princes, counts and barons," write
+the chroniclers, helped Elias in his work, while the
+people of Umbria, too poor to give money, came in
+numbers, out of the reverence they bore the Saint, to
+work for small and often for no wages. It was a busy
+time; and Assisi awoke to a sense of her importance.
+Under the vigilant eye of Elias, armies of masons and
+labourers worked as unremittingly as ants at a nest,
+while processions of carts drawn by white oxen, went
+ever to and fro upon the road leading to the quarries,
+bringing creamy-white, rose and golden-coloured blocks
+of Subasian stone.</p>
+
+<p>This universal enthusiasm enabled Elias to complete
+the Lower Church in twenty-two months, while the
+Upper Church was roofed in six years later, and finished
+in all essential details by 1253. But while Elias was
+applauded by most people, a few of the franciscans,
+headed by Fra Leo, still clung to the letter of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span>
+franciscan rule, and bitterly disapproved of these innovations.
+They sorrowfully looked on at the army of
+workers, raising, as if by magic, walls and colonnades
+upon the hill-side and towers ever higher against the
+sky. They watched blocks of marble and stone being
+chiselled into cornices, friezes and capitals ornamented
+with foliage and flowers, until, with despair in their
+hearts, they slowly returned to their mud huts in the
+plain. The dreams of Francis were vanishing fast as
+the allegiance to the Lady Poverty diminished. Now
+her shrine existed only in the Carceri, in San Damiano
+and in the Portiuncula, where few sought her company,
+for all eyes were turned towards the new Basilica. The
+words of the Master, recorded faithfully in Leo's
+biography, were ever ringing in his ears: "Set a
+good hedge round in lieu of a wall, as a sign of holy
+poverty and humility ... build poor little cells of
+mud and wood, and other cells where at times the
+brethren may pray and work to the gain of virtue and
+the avoidance of sloth. Also cause small churches to
+be built; they ought not to raise great churches for
+the sake of preaching to the people, or for any other
+reason, for they will show greater humility and give a
+better example by going to preach in other churches.
+And if by chance prelates, clerics, religious or seculars
+should come to these abodes, the poor houses, the little
+cells and small churches will be better sermons and
+cause greater edification to them than many words."<a name="FNanchor_64" id="FNanchor_64" href="#Footnote_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a></p>
+
+<p>No wonder that Leo and his friends watched Elias
+at his work with no friendly eye, for between the mud
+huts which Francis had planned with so much simplicity,
+and the massive Basilica and palatial convent,
+stretched an infinite chasm, separating the old order
+from the new.</p>
+
+<p>They were still more unhappy and scandalised when
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span>
+Elias, who had the full permission of Gregory IX. for
+this innovation, placed a marble vase outside San Francesco
+to receive the contributions of those anxious to
+see the church quickly finished. A curious account is
+given by a latin chronicler of the warfare which ensued
+between the standard-bearers of the new and the
+old franciscan spirit: "Some brothers of marvellous
+sanctity and purity went to Perugia to consult Brother
+Egidio, a good and pious man, concerning the erection
+of so large a building and the manner of collecting
+money, which seemed to be expressly against the rule.
+And Brother Egidio answered them: "If that building
+were to reach from Assisi to here [to Perugia] a
+little corner would suffice for me to dwell in." And
+they having asked him what he thought about the vase,
+he said, turning to Brother Leo: "If thou considerest
+thyself already dead [to the world and its persecutions]
+go and break it. But if thou livest, stay thy hand, for
+perchance thou mayest not be able to bear the persecution
+of that Brother Elias."<a name="FNanchor_65" id="FNanchor_65" href="#Footnote_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a> Hearing this, Brother
+Leo went with his companions and broke the vase to
+pieces. Then Brother Elias, hearing this, had them
+severely beaten by his servants, and drove them from
+Assisi in great confusion. For this reason a great
+tumult arose among the brethren. Because of these
+aforesaid excesses, and because Brother Elias threatened
+the complete destruction of the rule, when the brethren
+met in general Chapter they deprived him of the office
+of Vicar General, and unanimously elected Brother
+John of Florence [Giovanni Parenti].<a name="FNanchor_66" id="FNanchor_66" href="#Footnote_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a></p>
+
+<p>But these murmurs were drowned in the din of
+public applause which enabled Elias to work in his
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span>
+own way, unscrupulously dispersing every difficulty
+without any reference to the rule of St. Francis.</p>
+
+<p>He continued to be the presiding spirit at Assisi, and
+such was the success of his untiring energy that by
+the month of May 1230, the Lower Church of the
+Basilica was ready to receive the "most sacred body"
+of the Saint, while the magnificent quarters in the
+adjoining convent were ready for those friars who
+belonged to the moderate party, and approved of the
+new order of things.</p>
+
+<p>Pope Gregory was unable to visit Assisi at this time
+owing to difficulties with his unruly Roman subjects,
+but he sent innumerable indulgences, golden crosses
+studded with precious stones containing relics of
+the true cross, vases of silver and gold, and a large
+sum of money for the further advancement of the building.
+These generous gifts were followed by a Brief,
+which in calmer moments the monks might have viewed
+with irritation, declaring both Basilica and convent to
+be immediately subject to the Holy See. The franciscan
+order was fast becoming a Papal institution, to
+be patronised and ruled by succeeding Pontiffs.</p>
+
+<p>While Giovanni Parenti was preparing for the Conclave
+to be held in the spacious rooms of the new
+convent, the wily Elias was holding secret councils
+with the magistrates of the town as to ensuring the
+safe conduct of the body of St. Francis to the Basilica.
+The number of people continually arriving in anticipation
+of the coming ceremony made them somewhat uneasy,
+and their doubts were carefully discussed in the
+Communal Palace. They came to the conclusion
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span>
+that if the exact place of the saint's sepulchre was
+known, there would always be the danger of its being
+rifled by the citizens of neighbouring towns, especially
+by the Perugians, whose partiality for relics was well
+known. So a stratagem, most likely invented by the
+fertile brain of Elias, was decided upon and succeeded
+admirably.</p>
+
+<p>The friars and citizens, unconscious of the plot
+hatched in their midst, were all eager for the day
+of the Translation. The Umbrians left their towns
+empty to assist at the great spectacle, and their number
+was so great, that, failing to find room within the walls
+of Assisi, they wandered like droves of cattle on the
+hills above trying to obtain a sight of the procession.
+It was a great day in the annals of Assisi; outside the
+little church of San Giorgio a triumphal car, drawn by
+a pair of magnificent oxen, their whiteness almost
+hidden beneath purple draperies and their horns
+wreathed and garlanded with flowers, stood waiting
+for the holy burden. Three Papal Legates and
+Elias placed the heavy sarcophagus with their own
+hands upon the car, covering it over with a piece
+of rich brocaded silk sent for the occasion by the
+mother of King Louis of France. They kept close
+to the car all the time, while the brethren, holding
+palms and torches, formed a long procession followed
+by the bishops and their clergy, and the Podestà with
+his retinue of crimson-robed priors. It was the month
+of May, and from every garden and terrace the nobles
+and their ladies showered flowers over the "sacred
+ark" as it was borne slowly up the street amidst the
+deafening sound of trumpets and the cheers of the
+populace. All that could be done to honour St.
+Francis had been thought of; Gregory IX. had even
+composed a hymn to be sung on that day in which
+the "Poverello" was compared to Christ. They were
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span>
+in the midst of the hymn of praise and quite close
+to the new Basilica when the heavy tramp of numerous
+armed men was suddenly heard; swiftly a passage was
+made through the crowd, who for the moment fell
+back amazed and powerless, while the soldiers hurried
+with the sarcophagus into the church, closely followed
+by Elias, who promptly shut and barred the door.
+After the first moment of surprise, a wild burst of
+indignation arose from the thousands who were thus
+deprived of a spectacle which they had come miles to
+see. They howled like wild beasts baulked of their
+prey, banging at the doors of the church in their fury;
+but silence reigned within, for Elias and his accomplices
+were stealthily engaged in hiding the body of
+St. Francis in the very bowels of the mountain, where
+for five centuries it remained unseen and undisturbed.</p>
+
+<p>Till far into the night the people continued to murmur;
+the bewildered friars asked each other what this
+strange behaviour of Elias meant, and the only people
+who preserved any appearance of calmness were Messer
+il Podestà of Assisi and his priors, who smiled to see
+how well the plot had worked. It was not long before
+the scandal reached the ears of Pope Gregory. The
+enemies of Elias painted the story in glowing colours,
+and the Pope expressed himself greatly shocked at
+sacrilegious hands having been laid upon the holy body
+of the saint. He blamed the magistrates for allowing
+such a tumult to arise, and called upon them to give
+due explanation of their conduct within a fortnight at
+the court of Rome under pain of their city being laid
+under an interdict. The Pope's Brief caused consternation,
+and his accusations of their ingratitude for
+past favour rankled deeply. We are not told how
+the anger of the Pope was pacified, but no doubt both
+Elias and the Podestà explained satisfactorily the
+reasons for so strange a burial, as Assisi continued
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span>
+to enjoy the patronage of the Holy See. The efforts
+of Elias to ensure the safety of the body of St. Francis
+had been eminently successful, and Gregory could
+hardly fail to pardon the unusual manner in which
+this had been obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Out of the mysterious events of that day of tumult
+grew a legend which lasted until the body of St.
+Francis was finally discovered five centuries later. It
+was believed that a church far surpassing the other two
+in grandeur and beauty had been built beneath them by
+Elias, and that St. Francis risen from his tomb stood
+in the midst, his hands crossed upon his breast, his
+head thrown back, gazing eternally towards the sky.
+The Umbrians, refusing to believe that their saint
+could suffer the common lot of mortals, loved to think
+of him as "almost alive," waiting for the last call,
+surrounded by the glorious beauty of a hidden church
+which they had never seen and only dimly pictured to
+themselves. Vasari refers to this "invisible church"
+described to him by the awe-struck citizens, when he
+mentions that "the tomb containing the body of the
+glorious saint is in the lowest church where no one
+enters, and whose doors are walled up"; and in the
+beginning of his description of the Basilica, he speaks
+of three ranges of buildings placed one above the
+other, the lowest of all being subterranean, which
+is curious as showing how closely he followed tradition
+regarding the Assisan church. Padre Angeli so unhesitatingly
+accepted the story that in his "Collis
+Paradisi" he drew from imagination a plan, together
+with a picture of the "invisible church." It represents
+a long vaulted hall somewhat recalling the architecture
+of the Upper Church, at the end of which is
+St. Francis standing upon his tomb in a recess corresponding
+to a kind of choir; the vaulted roof is
+supported by slender columns with chiselled capitals,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span>
+and the walls and floor are ornamented with marbles
+and mosaic of different colours.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>To close this chapter without touching upon the
+career of Elias, who is at once the black sheep of the
+franciscan order and one of the greatest citizens of
+Assisi, would be impossible. Few have written calmly
+about him, trying either to exculpate him or blaming
+his actions too severely, so that it is difficult to obtain
+any just idea of the real motives which guided him
+in an ill-starred life. Elias was neither devil nor
+saint, though he possessed the energy of both and his
+marked and domineering character would have fitted
+him better for the world than for the cloister.
+Ambition seems to have been his chief fault, together
+with a certain proud reserve which kept him aloof
+from his companions. From the various references
+to him in the early biographies of St. Francis we feel
+the writers failed ever to come quite in touch with one
+so outside their lives, and whom they considered as a
+kind of Judas&mdash;for did he not betray the interests of
+the Master?</p>
+
+<p>"Elias is an altogether different type of man from
+the simple-minded Francis," writes Mrs Oliphant,
+echoing the general opinion. "He is an ambitious
+and ascetic churchman, of the class which has pushed
+Rome into much power and many abuses&mdash;an almost
+conventional development of the intellectual monk,
+making up for compulsory humbleness in external
+matters by the highest strain of ecclesiastical ambition
+and spiritual pride."</p>
+
+<p>But while all abused him, none doubted his very
+exceptional talents, and even in the <i>Fioretti</i> he was
+accounted "one of the most learned men in the
+world," and St. Francis showed the great confidence
+he had in him by naming him Vicar-General after the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span>
+death of Peter Cataneo. It was at a Chapter held in
+the wood by the Portiuncula that the saint expressed
+his desire to again resign the government of the order
+to another, and while Elias discoursed to the assembled
+friars St. Francis sat at his feet listening attentively to
+every word.<a name="FNanchor_67" id="FNanchor_67" href="#Footnote_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a> On the other hand, the saint was quite
+aware of his faults, and from the <i>Fioretti</i>, where Elias
+is pictured for artistic effect in strong colours as the
+wicked friar, we seem to realize the strain that often
+must have come between these two very different men.
+Thus we read that it being revealed to St. Francis
+that Elias was destined to lose his soul and bring dishonour
+on the order, he conceived such an antipathy
+towards him that he would even avoid meeting him,
+although at the time they were living in the same
+convent. The scene when Elias, discovering the
+reason of his displeasure, threw himself at the feet of
+the saint to implore his intercession with heaven reveals
+in the most touching way the great belief and reverence
+inspired by St. Francis in the heart of the least docile
+of his followers. "I have so great a faith in thy
+prayers," said Elias, "that were I in the midst of
+hell, and thou wert to pray to God for me, I should
+feel some relief; therefore again I pray thee to commend
+me, a sinner, unto God who came to save sinners
+that He may receive me into His mercy." And this
+did Brother Elias say with much devotion and many
+tears, so that St. Francis, like a pitying father, promised
+to pray to God for him. It will be seen how
+far the revelation of St. Francis came true, and the
+manner in which his prayer was answered.
+
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span></p>
+
+<p>So long as Elias remained under the influence of
+Francis his pride was tempered, and his ambition
+curbed, but when cast upon his own resources he gave
+full rein to the ideas which had no doubt been forming
+in his mind for some years past. Elias thought the
+franciscan order, if faithful to the Lady Poverty,
+would prove of small importance; and he therefore
+willingly leagued with Gregory IX. to mould it so
+that it should become a visible power upon the earth.
+The vision he conjured up with the sceptre in his
+own hand was very fair; and he failed to see why
+religion should not be served quite as well within the
+massive convent walls he had helped to rear, as when
+dwelling in a mud hut. He had too broad a mind
+to look closely to the detail of his rule; he only saw
+the broad outline of his master's teaching; and who
+can say whether after all he was not right? This
+we know, the mud huts have long since vanished,
+while thousands come each year to pray at the tomb
+of Francis within sight of Giotto's master-pieces.
+They sing aloud his praises, and as they pray and sing
+throw coppers and silver in heaps upon the altar steps,
+and pass out of the church into the sunlight again,
+knowing little of the lessons St. Francis spent his life
+in teaching.</p>
+
+<p>But we must return again to Elias and his
+many troubles with the franciscan world. While
+patronized by Pope Gregory, he also seems to have
+had a strong party of monks on his side, probably
+those who had joined the Order during the last few
+years. Their names have not come down to us, and
+their personalities have merged in that of Elias who
+thus led them forward on a somewhat perilous way.
+They began by attempting to depose Giovanni Parenti
+while he was holding a Chapter in the new convent,
+a few days after the ceremony of the Translation of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span>
+the body of St. Francis to the Basilica. His friars
+were gathered round him discussing the various missions
+to be undertaken, and the work that had been done
+during the past year, when the door was thrown open
+and a crowd of excited friars with Elias at their head
+appeared upon the threshold. Before anyone could
+realize what this strange apparition meant, Elias was
+borne rapidly along by his companions and installed
+in the seat of Giovanni Parenti, while a scene of
+indescribable tumult arose among those whose indignation
+had not yet cooled down after the events of the
+past week. It is said that St. Anthony of Padua was
+present at this conclave, and vainly tried to calm the
+excitement, but his voice was drowned in the clamour.
+At last, driven to despair, Giovanni Parenti began to
+cry aloud and tear his garments as one distraught; he
+could not have hit upon a better plan, for where words
+had failed this piece of dramatic acting produced an
+instantaneous effect. His friars formed a vanguard
+round him, acclaiming him Vicar-General as they beat
+back the intruders with hard blows and angry scowls.
+Elias, seeing the game was lost, threw himself on the
+ground, and with expressions of deep contrition
+implored forgiveness. He was pardoned, but banished
+to a distant hermitage, where humbled and sad he
+pondered for many months upon his next move. He
+allowed his hair and beard to grow to such a length
+that even his enemies began to believe his repentance
+was sincere, and only two years after his misconduct
+we find him elected Vicar-General in the place of
+his former rival, and, under the title of Guardian and
+Master of the Basilica and Convent, in full command
+of the works at San Francesco.</p>
+
+<p>He now enjoyed a season of peace and plenty in the
+comfortable quarters of the franciscan convent, and
+is said to have gathered a household about him surpassing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span>
+the splendour of a cardinal's court. Fra
+Illuminato di Rieti (afterwards Bishop of Assisi)
+acted as his secretary, writing numberless letters to
+"the Pope and the Princes of the World," for Elias
+was in correspondence with more than one crowned
+head and paid many visits to distant courts in quest
+of money for the Assisan Church. On these journeys
+he always went on horseback, and even when going
+from one church to another in Umbria, he was well
+mounted on a "fat and stout palfrey," to the intense
+scandal of some of the friars. "He also had secular
+servants," writes an indignant chronicler, "all dressed
+in divers colours like to those of bishops, who ministered
+to him in all things." His food was always good,
+and he had the reputation of keeping an excellent cook.</p>
+
+<p>This peaceful and successful period of his life
+was of short duration, for he soon fell into dire
+trouble and disgrace. It was his misfortune to be
+sent by Pope Gregory, who trusted implicitly in
+his discretion and ability, on a mission to Frederic
+II, in the hopes of bringing the Emperor to a sense
+of his misdoings. A disciple of St. Francis seemed
+to be the right person to send as an emissary of peace;
+but instead of the orthodox humble and barefooted
+friar, we read of him as a very haughty personage, quite
+at his ease in the political world, then ringing with the
+angry cries of Guelph and Ghibelline.</p>
+
+<p>No sooner had Elias reached the franciscan convent
+at Parma than the magnates of the city, aware
+of the errand he had come upon, assembled to do
+him honour. Fra Salimbene, who was present at
+the interview, describes how Elias waited for his
+visitors, his head swathed in an Armenian turban,
+and comfortably seated upon a soft chair drawn
+close to a huge fire. When Gherardo da Correggio,
+known as "Messer il Podestà of the big teeth,"
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span>
+entered the room, Elias remained seated, and to the
+astonishment of all in no way disturbed himself for
+his illustrious guest. The Podestà very sensibly took
+no offence, but passed the matter over by expressing
+his wonder that the Vicar-General should have chosen
+so cold a season for his visit to Lombardy&mdash;a glance
+at the fire had told him that this franciscan friar liked
+comfort as much as most people.</p>
+
+<p>There is no detailed account of the interview of
+Elias with the Emperor to inform us whether he
+behaved at it with the same easy familiarity; all we
+know is that Frederic, "the wonder of the world,"
+and Elias, the Assisan friar, formed a friendship which
+lasted during the remainder of their lives, linking
+them together in a common fate. Whether Elias
+was won over from the first by the charm of so
+fascinating a personality, or simply baffled by a mind
+more subtle than his own, it is difficult to say, as the
+chroniclers have drawn too thick a veil over this
+unfortunate meeting for anyone to judge with fairness.
+His failure certainly gave a good opportunity to his
+many enemies to commence a very satisfactory scheme
+of blackening his character with the Pope; and the
+rumour flew to Rome that he was a traitor to his
+church. Branded with the abhorred name of Ghibelline
+there was now little hope for Elias, whose friendship
+with the arch-enemy of Holy Church grew always
+stronger. The Lombards becoming uneasy, accused
+Gregory of favouring the Emperor, while the latter
+bitterly complained that the Pope listened too much
+to the cause of the Lombards, and thought too little
+of the imperial dignity. At last a Chapter was called
+to enquire into the conduct of the Vicar-General,
+and as he was not present, his misdeeds lost nothing
+by the telling. Although Elias was deposed, and his
+place filled by a Pisan, he still held the title of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span>
+Guardian and Master of the Assisan Basilica, but
+in a city of such strong Guelph sympathies as Assisi,
+it was unlikely he would be left in peace, especially as
+the Pope no longer favoured him. Life soon became
+impossible there, and of his own free will he retired to
+a hermitage in the woods of Cortona, followed by some
+dozen faithful friars, "not excepting," adds a spiteful
+chronicler, "Fra Bartolomeo da Padova, his most
+excellent cook." Thence he wrote to the Pope explaining
+his conduct, and humbly entreating to be pardoned,
+but the letter was found years afterwards in the
+pocket of the Pisan Vicar-General, who had promised
+to deliver it safely at Rome. Whether the letter was
+wilfully laid aside or only forgotten, none have been
+able to decide, but the incident had disastrous effects
+upon Elias. He waited anxiously for the pardon
+which never came, until embittered by finding himself
+deserted by nearly everyone, he openly joined the party
+of Frederic II. He went a step further, and abused
+Pope Gregory in caustic language, taunting him with
+injustice and avarice, and with being a simonist, which
+of course ended in his excommunication "to the great
+scandal of the Church." The news of his disgrace
+spread quickly through Italy, and the children sang a
+couplet, invented on the spur of the moment, under the
+windows of franciscan convents:</p>
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="o1">"Or'e attorno Frat'Elia</p>
+<p>Che pres'ha la mala via."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was the cry which met the friars in every street they
+passed, so that the name of their former Vicar-General
+became hateful to them. And yet even now Elias
+must have had some friends in the Order, as at a
+council held at Genoa in 1244 there were a few who
+wished to reinstate him. The Pope commanded him
+to appear, but as the papal brief never arrived he was
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span>
+thus again debarred from clearing his much damaged
+character. The consequence of these efforts in his
+behalf only ended in his falling still deeper into disgrace;
+and for the second time he was excommunicated.
+We next hear of him roaming about
+the country with Frederic II, who found him useful
+on more than one occasion as a diplomatic agent.
+Elias was sent with strong letters of recommendation
+from Pier delle Vigne to Baldwin II, Emperor of
+Constantinople, and to Hugo I, King of Cyprus, and
+he was even charged to arrange a marriage for a
+daughter of Frederic. Among his various talents
+Elias seems to have been able to accommodate himself
+to a military life. We hear of him, both at the siege
+of Faenza and of Ravenna, riding out to battle on a
+magnificent charger. At other times he found a
+peaceful asylum at the Emperor's court, presenting a
+strange contrast to the "strolling minstrels, troubadours,
+poets, warriors, jugglers and artists of every grade"
+who frequented it. Upon the Emperor's death Elias
+returned to Cortona where the citizens received him
+kindly as he had obtained privileges for them at various
+times from his patron. Here, at the small hermitage
+in the ilex wood, he passed the last few years of his
+life in building a Franciscan church and convent,
+aided by the citizens who gave the ground for the
+site.</p>
+
+<p>While the last touch was being put to the building
+of the great Assisan Basilica and it was about to be
+consecrated by Innocent IV, in 1253, Elias lay dying
+in his little cell at Cortona. His loneliness touched
+the heart of a lay brother, who with gentle words
+expressed his sorrow at seeing him an outcast from the
+Order and offered him help. Elias, no longer the
+proud ambitious churchman, answered very gently:
+"My brother, I see no other way save that thou
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span>
+shouldst go to the Pope and beg him for the love of
+God and of St. Francis His servant, through whose
+teaching I quitted the world, to absolve me from his
+excommunication and to give me back again the habit
+of religion." The lay brother hastened to Rome and
+pleaded so humbly that Innocent "permitted him to
+go back, and if he found Brother Elias alive he was
+to absolve him in his name from the excommunication
+and restore unto him the habit; so full of joy the friar
+departed and returned in hot haste to Brother Elias,
+and finding him yet alive but nigh unto death he absolved
+him from the excommunication and put on him again
+the habit, and Brother Elias quitted this life and his
+soul was saved by the merits of St. Francis and by his
+prayers in which Brother Elias had reposed such great
+faith."</p>
+
+<p>Some say that even at the last fate pursued Elias,
+for the city of Cortona being at that time under an
+interdict no blessed oil could be found for the sacrament
+of extreme unction. Certainly his body was not
+allowed to rest in the church he had built for the
+brethren. A zealous friar dug it up and flung it on a
+dunghill, saying that no Ghibelline should be permitted
+to lie in consecrated ground.</p>
+
+<p>Thus it was that Elias left a name hated among
+the franciscans as bitterly as the Emperor Frederic's
+always has been by Guelph historians. But while the
+war against the latter still rages as fiercely as ever,
+Elias, save for the gratitude felt by the citizens of
+Assisi, rests almost forgotten and his story hidden in
+the pages of old chronicles. Few even remember that
+owing to the untiring energy of this man Assisi owns
+one of the most beautiful monuments of mediæval art.
+It is possible that had Fra Leo, Bernard of Quintavalle
+and his companions succeeded in those first days
+of struggle, the Basilica of San Francesco might never
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span>
+have attained its present magnificence or the art of
+Giotto been born in this Umbrian corner of Italy.
+Chi lo sa? It is a question one hardly even likes to
+think of. But the danger passed away, and who cares
+now whether the franciscans grumbled at the time, or
+said the church and convent with its buttresses and
+towers looked more like the feudal fortress of some
+mighty baron than the tomb of the Preacher of Poverty?
+The San Francesco we love rises golden and rose-tinted
+above the olive groves and the vineyards, above the
+plain with its young corn and the white villages lying
+among the fruit-trees, above a rushing torrent which
+circles round the base of the Subasian mountain on its
+way to the Tiber; and all day the varied group of
+church, arcaded convent and terraced gardens, is
+showing its beauty to the sun.</p>
+
+<p>In every light it is beautiful, in every mood we
+recall it, together with the choicest things we have seen
+in travel, haunting us like the charm of a living person.
+When the winter mists at early morning wrap round it
+like a mantle, or the stars form crowns above its roof
+and bell tower, there is always some new loveliness
+which thrills us, some fresh note of colour we have not
+noticed there before, making us again and again feel
+grateful that Elias forgot or ignored the teaching of his
+master.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo163" id="illo163"></a>
+<img src="images/illus163.jpg" width="430" height="650" alt="SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE PLAIN"  />
+<p class="caption">SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE PLAIN</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">CHAPTER V</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span></p>
+<p class="center b175"><i>Cimabue and his School at San Francesco</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"Il semble au premier coup d'&oelig;il que le rève de François
+d'Assise a dû amener la fin de tout l'art et de toute noble vie.
+Chose étrange! ce sordide mendiant fut le père de l'art
+italien."&mdash;<span class="smcap">E. Renan.</span> <i>Nouvelles Études d'Histoire Religieuse.</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">The Lower Church</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="dropcap">S</span>o rarely in Italy is a church perfect both within and
+without that it is with amazement we find at Assisi
+not one but two churches, choir and nave piled above
+each other, and covered from roof to floor with frescoes,
+as perfect of their kind as the buildings which they
+decorate. Wars in every town, trouble, dissension and
+jealousies among men, raged like a storm over the land,
+but all this turmoil of a fevered age was unable to check
+the steady, rapid progress of at least this monument to
+a dead saint's memory; and we perceive yet another
+proof of the extraordinary influence of St. Francis,
+who was able by the devotion and admiration he excited,
+to inspire all with some of his own love of the
+beautiful, which has lasted in Italy, from the days
+of his ministry, through centuries of both faith and
+unbelief down to modern times. But from this arose
+a strange event; this lover of solitude, who during his
+life sought only for humiliation and obscurity and
+loved best the poor and deserted way-side sanctuaries,
+was laid to rest in one of the most beautiful Italian
+churches of that time.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo166" id="illo166"></a>
+<img src="images/illus166.jpg" width="436" height="550" alt="THE LOWER CHURCH"  />
+<p class="caption">THE LOWER CHURCH</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>While wandering through the Lower Church, marvelling
+at the delicate friezes of tiny heads, flowers and
+winged horses, which frame every fresco; at the great
+spreading arches&mdash;built for strength; the vaulted roof
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span>
+of deep azure blue with dull golden stars upon its
+surface, looming above the paintings and dimming their
+brilliancy by the shadows which lurk in its depth, we
+feel that within the shelter of its perpetual twilight this
+is a place to pray in. It is truly the home of St.
+Francis, and notwithstanding its richness and vast
+splendour his spirit is here, the certainty that he once
+had dwelt upon the earth is felt.</p>
+
+<p>Few ever stop to look at the walls of the nave, and
+indeed, upon coming out of the sunlight, the darkness
+and gloom for some minutes is oppressive and but little
+can be distinguished in the gloom. It was almost
+by chance that we one day noticed some frescoes,
+ruined and faded, just outside the Chapel of St.
+Martin. They are of no beauty as works of art,
+indeed they are rather ugly, but their interest lies in
+showing us that from the very beginning artists had
+endeavoured, however feebly, to depict the legend of
+St. Francis.<a name="FNanchor_68" id="FNanchor_68" href="#Footnote_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> On the left wall of the nave, outside
+the Chapel of St. Martin, is a fresco representing
+the Sermon to the Birds with the same idea of
+composition which was adopted later by Giotto; the
+saint slightly bends towards the birds upon the ground,
+his companion stands behind, while the single tree
+adds a certain solemnity to the scene. The figures
+are large and ungainly, with feet terrible to behold,
+the lines are hard, and there is little feeling of movement
+or life; yet we look at it with reverence and hope,
+for we know that, with all the ugliness and stiffness
+of workmanship, the artist was vehemently striving in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span>
+this dark church to shake off the hampering chains of
+worn-out traditions, and find for himself something nearer
+to the truth. And as we look at this one and at the
+next, representing St. Francis receiving the Stigmata,
+our thoughts are carried to other renderings of these
+scenes, and we say with light hearts: "After this poor
+craftsman comes Giotto, King of Tuscan painters."</p>
+
+<p>These are the only two frescoes illustrating
+the life of the saint, though there may have been
+others which were destroyed when the walls of the
+nave were broken down in order to form entrances
+to the chapels, added to the main building about
+1300. But on the right side, beginning outside the
+Chapel of San Stefano, are parts of several scenes
+from the New Testament; a crowd of women and
+men standing round the cross, a group of women, the
+Descent from the Cross, a Pietà, a landscape with houses
+and a decoration of circular ornaments outside the
+Capella di Sta. Maria Maddalena, generally attributed
+to Giunta Pisano, thus giving them too early a date.<a name="FNanchor_69" id="FNanchor_69" href="#Footnote_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span></p>
+
+<p>To us their interest seems rather to lie in that
+they plainly show how the earliest masters, whilst
+endeavouring to illustrate the franciscan legend, failed
+so completely to satisfy their employers that they
+were bidden to stay their hand and continue to paint
+the well-worn theme of the history of the world's
+redemption, which required less invention than the
+legend of St. Francis, where a new out-look on
+life had to be acquired. So the franciscans, failing
+to find a painter who could illustrate their founder's
+life to their satisfaction, contented themselves with
+other things, perhaps hoping that in course of time
+one might arise who could do justice to the theme.
+Well it was that they waited.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after these frescoes had been completed
+in the Lower Church, art received a new impulse
+(one likes to think that the struggles of the first artist
+towards something better and more true to life had
+to do with this); others came, with Giotto at their
+head, and painted over some of these early efforts,
+leaving us only Cimabue's great Madonna, a few ruined
+frescoes, a Byzantine pattern, and stray touches of
+colour in dark corners of the church to remind us
+of these first decorators of San Francesco.</p>
+
+<p>We get a melancholy picture from Vasari of the
+depths to which art had sunk, and of the degenerate
+artists still following a worn-out tradition until it became
+as a dead thing in their hands deprived of all
+inspiration, when "in the year 1240, by the will
+of God, Giovanni Cimabue ... was born in the
+city of Florence to give the first light to the art of
+painting."
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Cimabue is rightly called the Father of Italian art,
+as he represented a new era among Italian masters
+who were awakening to their country's needs; when
+men, filled with strange restless energy, grew tired
+of the Byzantine Madonna with her court of stiff,
+lifeless saints, and looked for something in closer
+touch with their mood and aspirations.</p>
+
+<p>Round the name of Cimabue are grouped many
+charming legends belonging to a time when the people,
+anxious to possess the new thing their hearts craved
+for, looked eagerly and critically at an artist's work.
+There is the story of how when he had finished the
+picture of the Virgin Mary, the Florentines came to
+his workshop, and, expecting much from him, yet were
+amazed at the wonderful beauty of the grand Madonna,
+and carried the picture with rejoicing, to the sound of
+music, to the Church of Sta. Maria Novella, where it
+still hangs in the dark chapel of the Ruccellai; a street
+in Florence down which the picture passed being called
+Borgo Allegri, because of the gladness of that day.
+It is only a legend, and one that has been oft repeated,
+and as often doubted. Now the existence of Cimabue
+is even questioned by some, but whoever invented the
+story understood the great change which had come
+among the people and into art. It was only right
+that in the church of the saint who personified the
+feeling of the age, caught its spirit, and sent the
+impulse of the people even further, should centre all
+the first efforts towards this awakening and revival,
+until, step by step, the masterpieces of Giotto were
+reached. When we remember this, the large fresco
+of Cimabue in the right transept of the Lower Church
+becomes more full of beauty and meaning.<a name="FNanchor_70" id="FNanchor_70" href="#Footnote_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a> The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span>
+great spirit of her presence fills the church, her majesty
+and nobility is that of the ideal Madonna, grave to
+sadness, thinking, as her eyes look steadily out upon
+the world, what future years would bring to the Child
+seated on her lap, who stretches out a baby hand to
+clasp her veil. All the angels round the throne sway
+towards her; in their heavy plaits of hair shines a dull
+red light, and in their wings and on the Madonna's
+gown are mauve and russet shades like the colours
+of autumnal oaks.... "To this day," says Mr
+Ruskin, "among all the Mater Dolorosas of Christianity,
+Cimabue's at Assisi is the noblest; nor did any
+painter after him add one link to the chain of thought
+with which he summed the creation of the earth, and
+preached its redemption."</p>
+
+<p>St. Francis has not been forgotten in this fresco,
+but Cimabue having given all his art to make the
+Virgin and her choir of angels beautiful, his figure is
+not quite one's idea of the ethereal Umbrian preacher,
+and his being there at all spoils the symmetry of the
+grouping. It is not improbable that the figure of St.
+Clare stood on the other side, and was erased when the
+Chapel of Sta. Maria Maddalena was built, and the
+ornamental border painted round this fresco, which
+cut off part of the wings of the two angels on the left
+of the Virgin.</p>
+
+<p>Vasari vaguely tells us of some frescoes from the
+lives of Jesus Christ and of St. Francis, painted by
+Cimabue in the Lower Church, and later writers
+have thought these must have been destroyed to make
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span>
+room for Giotto's work. If paintings were there at
+all they were more likely to have been the work of
+inferior artists, for it seems improbable that Giotto,
+coming to Assisi for the first time when he was quite a
+youth, should destroy any work of his master, who was
+still alive, in order to substitute his own early efforts.</p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">The Upper Church</span></p>
+
+<p>Not only was the Upper Church essentially fitted
+for fresco painting, but it required an elaborate scheme
+of decoration, just as a setting, however perfect, needs
+a gem to complete it; and it almost seems as though
+"Jacopo" had stayed his hand, with the intention that
+here, at least, architecture should be subservient to wall
+decoration, and had foreseen the need of large spaces to
+be covered with paintings, as brightly coloured, as clear,
+and as closely set together as are the colours upon a
+butterfly's wings.</p>
+
+<p>"It was here, in the Upper Church of Assisi,"
+says Mr Roger Fry, "that the Italian genius first
+attained to self-expression in the language of monumental
+painting, a language which no other European
+nation, except the Greeks, has ever mastered." But
+the question as to who were the predecessors of
+Giotto, and when exactly they came, can never, we
+think, be answered; for the time is not far off when
+these splendid ruins of early art will have totally faded
+away, or, what is infinitely worse, be covered with
+still thicker layers of paint than the "restorer" has
+already laid upon them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo173" id="illo173"></a>
+<img src="images/illus173.jpg" width="396" height="550" alt="LOOKING THROUGH THE DOORS OF THE UPPER CHURCH TOWARDS
+THE PORTA S. GIACOMO AND THE CASTLE" />
+<p class="caption">LOOKING THROUGH THE DOORS OF THE UPPER CHURCH TOWARDS
+THE PORTA S. GIACOMO AND THE CASTLE</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Vasari finds no difficulty about the matter, declaring,
+to his own satisfaction and for the instruction of future
+generations, that every fresco in the apse and transepts,
+together with the series relating to the history of the
+Jews and the life of Christ, are by Cimabue. But then
+Cimabue was a Tuscan, and Vasari, the painter of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span>
+Tuscan Arezzo, was determined to give as much
+glory to his fatherland as he could. We too would
+give all possible honour to Cimabue, but are bound to
+follow the opinion of later critics, who less prejudiced
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span>
+and hasty in their criticisms than Vasari, see the
+work of many hands in all these frescoes; so we
+have gathered together a few notes concerning them
+from various authorities to help the traveller to form
+his own ideas upon the subject. The theme is too
+endless to attempt in a small space to give more than
+a very brief summary of the chief facts.</p>
+
+<p><i>Frescoes of the Choir and Transepts.</i>&mdash;These may be
+divided into two distinct classes, those of the north transept,
+which are older and inferior to those of the south
+transept and choir. Herr Thode attributes their
+difference to the fact that while all are the work of
+Cimabue, the frescoes in the north transept were painted
+when he was quite young, while the rest belong to a
+later period, when he had attained his full powers.
+The Crucifixion of the north transept, one of the most
+ruined, reminds us somewhat of works by Margaritone
+which may be studied, without much pleasure, in most
+Italian galleries. The figures standing round the Cross
+are short, with small heads and large hands, and not
+even in the fainting Madonna is there the slightest
+charm. In the Martyrdom of St. Peter, on the next
+wall, it is curious to note the similarity of treatment to
+Giotto's fresco at Rome of the same subject. The
+Saint, head downwards upon the Cross without any
+group of people would have made but a dull composition;
+so both artists added an obelisk on either side to
+relieve the monotony of line.</p>
+
+<p>Then follows the scene of Simon Magus being borne
+upwards by demons with bat-like wings; and upon the
+next wall, beneath the triforium, is represented the
+death of Ananias and Sapphira, and St. Peter curing
+the lame before the Temple, where the figures are
+certainly more majestic and, according to Herr Thode,
+distinctly show the hand of Cimabue.</p>
+
+<p>Behind the papal throne are medallions of the friend
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span>
+and patron of St. Francis, Gregory IX, and of Innocent
+IV, who consecrated the Basilica. The frescoes
+represent the life of the Virgin, but they are all too
+faded to be enjoyed, save that of the Coronation on
+the right wall, just above the choir stalls; the Virgin
+is seated upon a wooden throne with Christ by her
+side and a group of apostles and spectators beneath.
+There is a striking resemblance in the drawing and
+form of the standing figures to those in the Crucifixion
+of the south transept. This, though very ruined and
+blackened in parts, showing no other trace of colour
+than a faint film of golden yellow, has still the power
+to make us feel that once, long ago, it was a fine work,
+worthy of a great master. Weeping angels fly above
+the Cross, some with outstretched hands, while others
+veil their eyes from the sight of the suffering Saviour;
+the Magdalen, her arms thrown up above her head, is
+seen in strong relief against the sky, and contrasting
+with this dramatic gesture, is the figure of the Virgin,
+erect and still, her hand clasped in that of St. John.
+The whole conception is dignified, replete with dramatic
+feeling of the nobler kind, and has been thought worthy,
+by Herr Thode, to be put down as the finest of Cimabue's
+creations.</p>
+
+<p>The remaining frescoes deal with scenes from the
+Apocalypse, but they are so ruined that it is a thankless
+task for any, except the student, to try and distinguish
+each separately. Indeed after a minute examination of
+so many ruined works of art, a certain sadness and
+weariness is felt, but if the pilgrim has time to rest
+awhile in a quiet corner of the stalls and look at choir
+and transepts solely for their colour, he will gain for
+himself many beautiful memories not easily forgotten.
+It is a vision of youthful saints, of men with lances
+hurrying down a rocky mountain side, of angels trumpeting
+to the four ends of the earth, and out of this medley
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span>
+of shadowy forms in fading frescoes, like sunlight
+breaking through a mist with golden light, loom the
+mighty angels of Cimabue. Their heads are crowned
+by a heavy mass of auburn hair, their wings slightly
+lifted, as though they were on earth but for a short
+space, and they seem as remote from mortals as the
+Sphynx herself in their dignity and calm repose. To
+Cimabue belongs the conception of such grave and
+strangely beautiful creations, winged messengers of
+strength, who come midway between the stiff Byzantine
+figures, and the swift-moving angels of Giotto and the
+cherub children forms of later Umbrian and Venetian
+schools.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Nave.</i>&mdash;All writers upon the subject agree
+that here the frescoes show no trace of Cimabue's
+style, but are from the hand of his contemporaries and
+pupils, who worked together in unfolding the history
+of the Jews and the world's redemption. If it is impossible
+to hint even at the names of these artists, the
+most hurried traveller must notice the different character
+which marks the legend of the New Testament
+from that of the Old, where the work of
+talented copyists of classical works of art differ
+from that of others who kept nearer to the style of
+Cimabue, instilling into it more or less life, as their
+individual powers permitted. Herein lies much of
+the history of early Italian art, but the few remaining
+frescoes, especially on the left wall, have been
+so terribly over-painted that the work of the critic
+is rendered well-nigh hopeless.</p>
+
+<p>Beginning at the right wall by the High Altar
+we have probably the work of a fine Byzantine
+master, or at least of one who must have copied a
+Greek masterpiece. In the Creation of the World,
+God, represented as a young man seated on a globe
+of fire, is, with a gesture of his hand, casting upon
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span>
+the earth his last creation&mdash;man&mdash;who, still suffused
+with celestial colour, is borne across the sea towards
+the land. A ram, a bull and a lion besport themselves
+upon the shore, enormous birds sit on the
+bushes, and the sea is already full of every kind of
+fish; slender pink clouds are in the sky, and the
+distant hills on the horizon have faded into shades
+of blue-green, like the landscape of an Umbrian
+picture.</p>
+
+<p>The nude figures of Adam and Eve in the Expulsion
+from Paradise are wonderfully good for the
+time, and the manner in which the angels are kicking
+them out of the garden of Eden is somewhat
+unusual.</p>
+
+<p>Beginning again at the first bay window but on
+the lower row of frescoes, in the Building of the
+Ark Noah is seated, an obelisk-shaped rock rising
+behind him, and gives his directions with a majestic
+air to his sons as to the sawing and placing of the
+great beams. A man, standing by his side, completes
+the composition, which has much dignity and
+finish.</p>
+
+<p>The fresco of the Sacrifice of Isaac, with Abraham
+raising his sword above him his body slightly thrown
+back, is perhaps one of the most striking of the series.
+The wind has caught his yellow robe, which unfurls
+itself against a landscape of sandy hills.</p>
+
+<p>All that remains of the next are three angels, whose
+grandeur can only be compared to those of Cimabue in
+the south transept. The remaining subjects on this side
+are by a different master, who followed closely the best
+classical traditions, and succeeds in giving extraordinary
+repose to his compositions as well as meaning to the
+various figures.</p>
+
+<p>In Jacob before Isaac, Isaac is waiting for his dish of
+venison, and Jacob's attitude denotes uncertainty as to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span>
+the reception he is likely to receive, while his mother,
+lifting the curtain of her husband's bed, seems to encourage
+her son.</p>
+
+<p>The next fresco is similar in composition, but better
+preserved. Here we feel the blindness of Isaac, the
+perplexity of Esau, who cannot understand why his
+father refuses to bless him, and the fear of Rebecca,
+who has stepped back, knowing that her fraud must
+now be discovered. In this composition the artist
+has strictly kept to rules laid down by his predecessors,
+and the result, if a little stiff and wanting in
+originality, is yet pleasing and restful to look at, presenting
+a great contrast to the somewhat exaggerated
+movements expressed in the preceding ones.</p>
+
+<p>The last of the series is the steward finding the cup
+in Benjamin's sack, though greatly ruined it still shows
+much beauty of composition.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the opposite wall, by the altar, is depicted the
+life of Christ by followers of Cimabue, but the few
+frescoes that remain are so mutilated and repainted,
+that it is impossible to say much about them, or even
+to imagine what they may once have been.</p>
+
+<p>"In the Capture," writes Messrs Crowe and
+Cavacaselle, "the Saviour is of a superior size to
+the rest of those around him, and of a stern but
+serene bearing. Trivial conception marks the scene
+of the Saviour carrying the Cross."</p>
+
+<p>The Pietà, one of the last, is evidently by a finer
+scholar of Cimabue, and the woman coming round the
+rocks resembles slightly the figure of Rebecca in the
+two frescoes on the opposite side. "The composition,"
+write the same authors, "is more like that which
+Giotto afterwards conceived than any other before or
+since"; but the colossal figure of Christ destroys the
+harmony of the scene.</p>
+
+<p>The arch at the end of the nave is painted to represent
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span>
+a series of niches, in each of which stands the
+figure of a saint, all are much repainted, as are the
+medallions of St. Peter and St. Paul by the door.
+The Descent of the Holy Spirit is greatly ruined, and
+in the Ascension the <i>intonaco</i> has peeled off, showing
+the bricks, so that the apostles have the appearance of
+looking over a wall.</p>
+
+<p>The ceiling is frescoed in three different places
+by other masters, whose names have not come down
+to us. Between the transepts and nave the four Evangelists,
+seated outside the gates of towns, are so utterly
+ruined and blackened by time and damp that it is
+barely worth craning one's neck to look at them.<a name="FNanchor_71" id="FNanchor_71" href="#Footnote_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a>
+But the four medallions of Christ, the Madonna, St.
+John the Baptist and St. Francis, which ornament
+the centre of the nave, are among the most beautiful
+things in the church, and quite perfect as decoration.
+At each corner of the spandrels stands
+an angel upon a globe, with wings uplifted, delicate
+in outline and brilliantly coloured, while the whole
+is bordered by the most exquisite design of blossoms
+and green foliage rising out of slender vases, which
+mingle with cupids, angels, winged horses and rabbits
+on a dull red ground. It must have been painted by
+one who had learned his art from the same source
+whence the decorative painters of Pompeii drew their
+inspiration.</p>
+
+<p>It is not an easy thing to fit entire figures seated
+on large marble thrones into triangular spaces, and
+so the artist found, who in the groined ceiling nearest
+the door had to paint the Doctors of the Church,
+Sts. Jerome, Gregory, Ambrose and Augustin,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span>
+dictating their epistles to busy clerks. But there is
+much that is charming in them, though as decoration
+they partly fail, and a resemblance may be found to
+the frescoes of Isaac and his sons, which seem to
+have influenced Giotto in his paintings of old men.</p>
+
+<p>Vasari's enthusiasm was roused when he looked
+upon these endless paintings, and he tells us that:
+"This work, truly grand and rich, and admirably
+well executed, must, I conceive, in those times have
+astonished the world, the more so that painting had
+for so long been sunk in such obscurity: and to
+me, who saw it once more in 1563, it appeared
+most beautiful, as I thought how Cimabue, in such
+darkness could have discovered so much light."</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>It would be well, before leaving, to look at the
+windows of the Upper Church, which are among
+the oldest in Italy, and, according to Herr Burckhardt,
+the most beautiful. As of most things connected
+with San Francesco, little is known about
+them; Vasari says they were designed by the painters
+of the frescoes; an opinion partly held by Herr
+Thode, who sees a great resemblance to the style
+of Cimabue in the right-hand window of the choir
+(the centre one is modern) with scenes from the
+lives of Abraham, David and Christ, of most beautiful
+colour and design. The left window, belonging to
+the same period, contains naïve scenes from the Old
+Testament, amongst which (the sixth from the top
+of the left half) is Jonah emerging from a blue-green
+whale the colour of the waves, and possessed
+of large white eyes.</p>
+
+<p>Those of the transepts of the same date are even
+finer and more beautifully coloured. Medallions of
+geometrical patterns of exquisite design and hue
+ornament the left-hand window of the north transept,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span>
+while that on the right contains scenes from the
+Old Testament and the life of Christ; in both of
+these, according to Herr Thode, the influence of
+Cimabue is apparent.</p>
+
+<p>The left window of the south transept contains seven
+scenes from the Creation and seven from the lives
+of Adam and Eve, who (in the last two divisions
+of the right half) are being driven out of Eden, and,
+spade in hand, are working at the foot of a tree.
+The eight saints of the right window, seated majestically
+on gothic thrones ornamented with spires, and
+dressed in rose-coloured, red and green garments,
+have certainly the appearance of being, as Herr Thode
+suggests, of a style even anterior to Cimabue.</p>
+
+<p>Half of the bay window on the left, looking towards
+the altar, is the work of the Umbrian school of the
+time of Fiorenzo di Lorenzo (there is a Madonna in a
+blue mantle, and St. Onofrio clothed in vine-leaves),
+while the left half, with medallions composed of very
+small pieces of glass representing scenes from the early
+life of Christ, are perhaps the most beautiful, and
+certainly the oldest, in the church, and can even be
+compared to the stained glass of French cathedrals.
+The third window (the second has suffered considerably,
+and what is left of the original belongs to the
+fifteenth century) has been a good deal restored, but
+the large angels with blue and purple wings standing
+in an arch, behind which a little town is seen, are very
+fine, and below them is a curious small figure of
+St. Francis floating in front of a colossal Christ,
+belonging also to the fifteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>Very beautiful are the two saints beneath gothic
+arches in the last window, and the priests in their rose-coloured
+stoles, the bishops in crimson and gold, and
+the other figures of warriors and saints.</p>
+
+<p>The right half of the bay window near the door
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span>
+upon the opposite side, belonging also to the Umbrian
+school, contains some charming scenes from the life of
+St. Anthony, while on the left are incidents of the life
+of St. Francis. The whole is remarkable for delicate
+rose colours, greens and pale blues, and a total absence
+of the strong deep tones of the older and finer windows;
+but they are very beautiful of their kind, like patches
+of pale sunshine in the church.</p>
+
+<p>The next two windows betray a more ancient style
+in the fine figures of the apostles (their heads, alas,
+are modern), and in the scenes from their lives, which
+are of a deeper tone than the former one; but even
+more beautiful is the last window, which does not seem
+to have been restored within the last three centuries,
+and where the colours standing out from a creamy
+background are very lovely. The two large and grand
+figures of two apostles are believed by Herr Thode to
+be from drawings by Cimabue.</p>
+
+<p>Both Francesco di Terranuova and Valentino da
+Udine were employed to repair all the windows about
+1476, large sums being expended, principally by the
+Popes who never ceased to patronise the franciscan
+Basilica. A most comical appearance is given by the
+distressing additions made in our own time of modern
+heads upon bodies of the thirteenth or fourteenth century.
+Until very lately an exquisite rose window was to be
+seen over the eastern door, now replaced by white
+glass; one would like to know how it so mysteriously
+disappeared and where it now is.</p>
+
+<p>No pains had been spared to make San Francesco
+as lovely in every detail as the brain of man could
+devise, and it is most remarkable how the frescoes
+belong to the general idea of the building as though
+every artist had thought as much of this unity as of
+the individual perfection of his work. The beautiful
+papal throne in the choir, of white marble encrusted in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span>
+mosaic with its frieze of strange animals in low relief,
+its arms supported by red marble lions, is almost a
+replica of the Soldan's throne in Giotto's fresco, and
+was designed by Fuccio Fiorentino in 1347, when the
+architecture that Giotto delighted in was still the recognised
+style in Italy.<a name="FNanchor_72" id="FNanchor_72" href="#Footnote_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> The marble and mosaic altar
+is of the same date, and the octagonal pulpit of sculptured
+stone, with saints in small tabernacles, spiral
+columns and designs of leaves slightly tinted, supposed
+also to be by Fuccio, is placed at the corner of the
+wall of the nave looking as if it had grown there.
+The columns supporting the arched gallery round the
+church have each been painted to represent mauve and
+rose-coloured marbles, and there is not a single space in
+all the building which has not been decorated to harmonise
+with the frescoes, giving a perfect sense of
+infinite completeness and beauty, to which time has
+added by mellowing everything into a pale orange
+colour&mdash;the colour of Assisi.</p>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">CHAPTER VI</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span></p>
+<p class="center b175"><i>The Paintings of Giotto and his School
+in the Lower Church</i></p>
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="i3"> "... Cimabue thought</p>
+<p>To lord it over painting's field; and now</p>
+<p>The cry is Giotto's, and his name eclipsed."</p>
+<p class="i3"><span class="smcap">Dante</span>, <i>Purgatory</i>, xi., Cary's translation.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="dropcap">T</span>he work of Cimabue, grand and noble as it is,
+yet gives the impression of belonging to remote
+times, between which and that of Giotto, his pupil, a
+great gulf is set. In both churches at Assisi we pass
+from the early efforts of an awakening age to the work
+of one, who, if not the first to see the light, was the
+first to discover the true principles of art, to give it
+life, and to found a school whence a long series of
+painters came to carry on for generations the lessons
+he had taught. Cimabue did wonders for the century
+in which he lived; of Giotto, even granting that his
+drawing was sometimes faulty, and the types of faces
+he painted were not always beautiful, it would be an
+insult to express such condescending praise; and even
+a hasty study of his frescoes in San Francesco must
+soon explain the everlasting sway he holds, now, as in
+those first years when his work seemed little short of
+miraculous to the wondering Florentines.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo186" id="illo186"></a>
+<img src="images/illus186.jpg" width="650" height="528" alt="PLAN OF THE LOWER CHURCH AND MONASTERY
+OF SAN FRANCESCO AT ASSISI"  />
+<p class="caption">PLAN OF THE LOWER CHURCH AND MONASTERY
+OF SAN FRANCESCO AT ASSISI</p>
+<a href="images/illus186_big.jpg">View larger image</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some fourteen miles to the north of Florence, among
+the hills of the Mugello, lies the scattered hamlet of
+Vespignano where Giotto Bondone was born of a poor
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span>
+peasant family in the year 1265. Even at an early
+age, Vasari says, the boy was remarkable for the
+vivacity and quick intelligence which endeared him
+not only to his parents, but to all who knew him in
+the village and country round. He passed his childhood
+among them, knowing nothing of the city just
+across the hills, but learning much, during the long
+days while he wandered forth to tend his father's
+sheep, which was helpful to him in after years to
+preserve his straightforward outlook upon life and
+the strength and freshness of a nature that loved the
+sunburnt valleys and the freedom of the shepherd's
+existence.</p>
+
+<p>When Giotto was ten years old it happened that
+Cimabue, on his way from Florence to Vespignano
+upon a matter of business, found him seated by the
+roadside, his flock gathered near, busily employed in
+drawing the outline of a sheep from life upon a smooth
+piece of rock. Struck by the boy's industry in the
+pursuit of art and his evident cleverness, Cimabue
+hastened to obtain the father's consent to adopt and
+make an artist of him. Leaving the old life in the
+peasant's cottage for ever, Giotto now turned south
+along new roads, and with Cimabue by his side, saw
+for the first time the city of Florence, beautiful as she
+lay upon the banks of the Arno in a setting of wooded
+hills.</p>
+
+<p>The progress he made under Cimabue's guidance,
+who taught him all he knew, was marvellous indeed.
+At ten years of age a shepherd tracing idle fancies on
+the stones, then for a few years an apprentice in a
+Florentine workshop grinding colours with the others
+for his master's big Madonnas; while ten years later he
+had already gained the title of Master and was a
+famous painter, courted by popes and kings, and
+leaving masterpieces upon the walls of churches
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span>
+throughout Italy, that people of all times and
+countries have come and paused awhile to see.</p>
+
+<p>Let us suppose it was the air of Florence, which,
+according to Vasari, "generates a desire for glory and
+honour and gives a natural quickness to the perceptions
+of men," that made Giotto a perfect Florentine,
+alert, witty, and ever ready with a caustic repartee to
+anyone who bandied words with him. But though
+other influences were at work around him, and new
+images crowded upon his active brain, he kept undimmed
+the vision of his mountain valley, of the
+fields, of the days spent in his native village, and,
+with the eyes of a shepherd he continued to look
+on all the incidents of human life; he saw the
+grandeur, the tragedy, the weaknesses, aye, and the
+humour too, in everything that surrounded him, setting
+it all down in his frescoes in his own simple and
+original way. In a few words Mr Ruskin has
+touched upon the keynotes of Giotto's character
+when he says: ... "his mind was one of the
+most healthy, kind and active that ever informed a
+human frame. His love of beauty was entirely free
+from weakness; his love of truth untinged by severity;
+his industry constant without impatience; his workmanship
+accurate without formalism; his temper serene
+and yet playful; his imagination exhaustive without
+extravagance; and his faith firm without superstition.
+I do not know, in the annals of art, such another
+example of happy, practical, unerring, and benevolent
+power."</p>
+
+<p>Such was the man who came to Assisi to take
+up the work left uncompleted by Cimabue and his
+contemporaries. Giotto was then almost unknown,
+not having executed any of those great works upon
+which his fame now rests, and it is not unlikely
+that the recommendation by Cimabue of his promising
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span>
+pupil to the friars of San Francesco led to his
+being called there when barely twenty years of age.<a name="FNanchor_73" id="FNanchor_73" href="#Footnote_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a>
+Opinions differ as to which were his first works and
+whether he began in the Lower or in the Upper Church,
+and as there are absolutely no documents relating to
+the subject, and Vasari is of no help in the matter
+of dates or precise details, the only way to come to
+any conclusion is to group these frescoes according
+to their style. We do not wish to force any arbitrary
+opinions on this matter, and have simply placed
+Giotto's work in the order that it seems to us more
+likely to have been executed. Those who disagree
+have only to transpose the chapters as they think
+fit. The chief thing is to enjoy the frescoes and
+speculate as little as possible on all the contradictory
+volumes written about them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Right Transept.</i>&mdash;According to Messrs. Crowe and
+Cavalcaselle these frescoes are by Giotto, and Mr
+Bernhard Berenson is of the opinion that they
+belong to his early period, and were executed by
+him before the franciscans knew what his powers
+were, and whether they could entrust to him the
+more difficult task of illustrating the legend of St.
+Francis. The subjects are taken from the early
+life of Christ which had been depicted many
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span>
+times in preceding centuries, but although Giotto
+attempted no very elaborate or original manner of
+treatment, his style was rapidly developing, and we
+have in some of the scenes little traits of nature
+which only belong to him. On the outside of the
+Chapel del Sacramento, over the arch, he painted the
+Annunciation with such charm, dignity and harmony
+of outline that it would be difficult to find a more
+perfect conception of religious feeling even among
+the pictures of Angelico. Unfortunately it can only
+be seen in the early afternoon when the light comes
+in through the windows of S. Giovanni; the Madonna
+rising with queenly grace and the angel hastening
+forward with his message then stand out from their
+dark background like living people, and show how,
+from the first, Giotto attained the power of giving
+vitality to his figures. His Madonna is not like a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span>
+graven image to be worshipped from afar; she is
+essentially the earthly mother of the Saviour, and
+Giotto, while treating her story with dignity and a
+certain sense of remoteness, tells it by the simplest
+means, endowing her with the maternal tenderness
+of a young peasant girl whom we meet upon the
+roads carrying her child to lay beneath the shadow
+of a tree while she goes to her work in the fields
+close by.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo190" id="illo190"></a>
+<img src="images/illus190.jpg" width="450" height="326" alt="CHOIR AND TRANSEPTS OF THE LOWER CHURCH"  />
+<p class="caption">CHOIR AND TRANSEPTS OF THE LOWER CHURCH</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Visitation (on the same wall as Cimabue's
+Madonna) is one of those frescoes that we remember
+like a scene we have witnessed, so naturally does
+the Virgin move forward, followed by a group of
+handmaidens, and hold out her arms to greet Elizabeth
+who is bending with such reverence to salute
+her cousin. They stand at the entrance of a dainty
+house inlaid with mosaic which is set among the
+bare rocks with only a stunted tree here and there.
+But Giotto does not forget to place a flowering plant
+in the balcony just as the peasants have always done
+in his mountain home.</p>
+
+<p>It is interesting to compare the next fresco of the
+Nativity with the same subject in the Upper Church,
+treated by a follower of Cimabue where the same
+idea is depicted, but with what a difference. Though
+two episodes are placed in one picture, Giotto succeeds
+in giving a harmonious composition, which, if a little
+stiff and over symmetrical, is full of charm and beauty.
+The angels singing to the new-born Infant and those
+apprising the shepherds of the news hover like a flight
+of birds above the barn. They are in truth the winged
+spirits of the air, "birds of God" Dante calls them,
+and thus Giotto paints them. As though to accentuate
+the sadness and poverty of Christ's birthplace, the barn,
+all open and exposed to the night breezes, is laid in a
+lonely landscape with a high rock rising behind it.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span>
+Beyond in the valley, a leafless tree grows upon the
+bank of a calm stream where the heavenly light from
+the angels is seen to play like moonbeams in its
+waters.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle hold that the Visit of
+the Magi was "never painted with more feeling, more
+naturally or beautifully composed than here"; and
+Giotto must have felt he could add little to the perfection
+of the scene when in later years he painted the
+same subject at Padua. All interest is centred on the
+Child, who, bending forward from the Virgin's arms,
+lays a tiny hand in blessing upon the head of the aged
+king. Curiously enough St. Joseph has been forgotten,
+and instead an angel stands upon either side to receive
+the offerings of the Magi.</p>
+
+<p>But to us the Purification seems even more beautiful
+in sentiment, composition and the perfection of religious
+feeling. Giotto was the first to conceive the idea
+of the Infant Jesus turning from Simeon towards the
+Virgin Mary as if anxious to come back to her, while
+she holds out her arms to invite him with a naïve
+attitude of gentle motherhood.</p>
+
+<p>From charming frescoes like these we come to the
+grand and powerful scene of the Crucifixion. Every
+figure tells a different tale of sorrow; of tender pity, as
+in the group of women round the fainting Virgin; of
+wonder that Christ should be allowed to suffer, as in
+the gesture of the woman with arms thrown back and
+St. John who wrings his hands almost fiercely; of sympathy
+expressed by the Magdalene, as she kisses the
+pierced feet; and of hope and prayer, in the kneeling
+figures of St. Francis and his brethren. Even more
+vehement in their grief are the angels, who rending
+their garments fly away with arms stretched out as if
+unable to bear the sight of so much pain. How rapidly
+they turn and circle in the air; they are not borne
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span>
+along by the winds, but trusting to their wings they
+rise with the swift, sure flight of a swallow.<a name="FNanchor_74" id="FNanchor_74" href="#Footnote_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a></p>
+
+<p>Upon the opposite wall the early life of the Virgin
+is continued with the Flight into Egypt, which bears a
+strong resemblance to the fresco at Padua. There is
+the same sense that St. Joseph, his bundle slung on a
+stick over his shoulder like a pilgrim, is really walking
+along and in a moment must disappear from sight; a
+palm tree bends sideways to the breeze, and above two
+angels seem to cleave the air as they hurriedly lead on
+the travellers to exile and safety. Only the Virgin sits
+calm and unruffled. In the Massacre of the Innocents
+Giotto has happily not painted the full horror of the
+scene, but has aimed rather at suggesting the tragedy
+than at giving its actual representation. Very beautiful
+are the women to the left mourning for their dead
+children. One rocks her child in her arms and tries
+to awaken him with her kisses, whilst another raises
+her hands in despair as she gazes upon the dead child
+upon her knees.</p>
+
+<p>The Return of the Holy Family from Egypt,
+though only showing a group of houses within surrounding
+walls and a gateway and a group of
+people, suggests better than a more complicated
+composition would have done the scene of a home-coming
+after long absence.</p>
+
+<p>The Preaching of the Child in the Temple completes
+the series, and like the one at Padua, it is the
+least interesting of Giotto's paintings.</p>
+
+<p>There are three other frescoes in the Transept which
+most people, with reason, attribute to Giotto, representing
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span>
+miracles of St. Francis. The first refers to a
+child of the Spini family of Florence who fell from a
+tower of the Palazzo Spini (now Feroni), and was
+being carried to the grave, when the intercession of
+St. Francis was invoked and he appeared among
+them to restore the child to life. Part of the fresco
+has been lost owing to the ruthless way in which the
+walls were cut into for the purpose of erecting an organ&mdash;a
+barbarous act difficult to understand. But the
+principal group of people are seen outside an exquisite
+basilica of marble and mosaic, and each figure can be
+studied with pleasure as they have not been mutilated
+by the "restorer's" usual layers of thick paint. Seldom
+has Giotto painted lovelier women than those kneeling
+in the foreground, their profiles of delicate and pure
+outline recalling a border of white flowers. Near them
+is a figure bearing so strong a resemblance to Dante,
+that we would fain believe that Giotto meant to represent
+the type of a true Florentine in a portrait of the
+poet. Above the staircase is a fine picture of St.
+Francis resting his hand upon the shoulder of a crowned
+skeleton "in which," says Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle,
+"a much deeper study of anatomy is revealed
+than has ever been conceded to Giotto." The oval
+face of the saint, with clear brown colouring, is very
+beautiful, strongly resembling the St. Francis in glory
+in the fresco above the high altar. By him also is
+the half-length figure of Christ in the vaulting of
+the window.</p>
+
+<p>Although the two remaining frescoes deal with the
+death and resurrection of a child, they probably have
+nothing to do with the Spini miracle; the one where
+the dead child is lying in the arms of two men has unfortunately
+been so repainted as to take all character away
+from the faces, and we can only admire the general
+grouping, the fine gestures of the weeping women, and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span>
+the grand modelling of the figures. Only a great artist
+could make one feel, by such simple means, the strain
+of the dead weight upon the men's arms. The man
+to the left (the second from the one holding his finger
+to his chin) is believed to be the portrait of Giotto; if
+it is, the painter has not flattered himself, and we can
+believe Dante's tale that he was remarkably ugly, and
+had six hideous children. On the other side of the
+arch the legend continues; a procession of white-robed
+monks and sorrowing friends approach the house to
+which the child has been taken, but in the meantime
+St. Francis has called him back to life, and a man,
+evidently in great excitement over the miracle, is
+hurrying down the steps to announce what has
+occurred. The story is so well and simply told
+that, although we have failed to find any account
+of it, it is easy to understand the sequence of the
+two frescoes, and the events they relate.</p>
+
+<p><i>Allegories by Giotto in the ceiling over the High Altar.</i>&mdash;The
+task was now given to Giotto to depict by the
+medium of allegory the three virtues of the franciscan
+order and St. Francis in glory. These virtues, the
+rocks upon which the franciscan order was so securely
+founded, had been preached by St. Francis to the
+people of Italy with the extraordinary results we have
+seen, and now Giotto came to take up the theme and,
+by means of his immortal art, perpetuate it as long as
+the great basilica lasts, and pilgrims come to pray and
+read upon the walls, in a language even the unlettered
+can understand, the lessons taught by the Umbrian
+preacher seven centuries ago. Apart from the fact of
+his genius, it was a fortunate thing that he should have
+been chosen for the task. A man of weaker and more
+impressionable temperament might have been led into
+such exaggerations of feeling and sentiment as we find
+in the Lorenzetti frescoes of the transept. Giotto
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span>
+came not many years after the Flagellants, roaming
+in hordes through the land calling for mercy and beating
+their half-naked bodies with leathern thongs, had
+spread a spirit of fanaticism which threatened to destroy
+the healthy influence of the teaching of St. Francis.
+But the mountain-born painter, impervious to such
+influences, kept his faith pure amidst the turmoil and
+unrest; and much as he admired the saint (it is said
+he belonged to the Third order), he looked upon his
+teaching from the practical point of view and was by
+no means carried away by the poetical manner in which
+it had been presented to the people. Nothing shows
+the mind and character of Giotto so plainly as some
+lines he wrote on poverty, most likely after painting
+his famous Allegories when he had an opportunity to
+observe how little the manners and customs of mediæval
+monks corresponded with the spirit of their founder.
+Every line of the poem is full of common sense and
+knowledge of human frailty. Many, Giotto remarks
+somewhat sarcastically, praise poverty; but he does not
+himself recommend it as virtue is seldom co-existent
+with extremes; and voluntary poverty, upon which he
+touches in a few caustic lines, is the cause of many ills,
+and rarely brings peace to those who have chosen her
+as a mate and who too often study how to avoid her
+company; thus it happens that under the false mantle
+of the gentlest of lambs appears the fiercest wolf, and
+by such hypocrisy is the world corrupted.<a name="FNanchor_75" id="FNanchor_75" href="#Footnote_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"><a name="illo197" id="illo197"></a>
+<img src="images/illus197.jpg" width="650" height="448" alt="THE MARRIAGE OF ST. FRANCIS WITH POVERTY"  />
+<p class="caption">THE MARRIAGE OF ST. FRANCIS WITH POVERTY</p>
+<p class="caption_lt">(<span class="smcap">D. Anderson</span>&mdash;<i>photo</i>)]</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Giotto, an artist before he was a moralist, undertook
+to carry out the wishes of his patrons, and thought
+only how he could best fill the triangular spaces of the
+ceiling with the figures of saints and angels. It was
+by no means an easy task, but Giotto succeeded so
+well that these four frescoes are reckoned among his
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span>
+masterpieces and the wonders of the thirteenth century.
+They certainly show a marked advance upon the earlier
+works in the Transept, but they lack the power and
+assurance of those in the Upper Church, where the
+youthful painter all but reached the zenith of his
+fame.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Marriage of St. Francis and Poverty.</i><a name="FNanchor_76" id="FNanchor_76" href="#Footnote_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a>&mdash;In this
+fresco Giotto has represented three incidents, but just
+as they all refer to one subject, so do the figures form
+a perfect harmony, faultless as decoration and beautiful
+as a picture. A youth, imitating the charity of St.
+Francis to whom his guardian angel is pointing, is seen
+on the left giving his cloak to a beggar, while upon the
+other side, a miser clutching his money-bag and a youth
+with a falcon on his gloved hand refuse to listen to
+the good suggestions of an angel and of the friar who
+stands between them. The lines of decoration are
+further carried out by the two angels who fly up carrying
+a temple with an enclosed garden, perhaps symbolising
+Charity, and a franciscan habit, which may be the
+symbol of Obedience. But these are details and
+the eye does not rest upon them, but rather is carried
+straight into the midst of a court of attendant angels
+where Christ, standing upon a rock, gives the hand of
+St. Francis to the Lady Poverty, who slightly draws
+away as if in warning of the hardships and disillusions
+in store for him who links his life with hers. Cold
+and white, her garments torn by a network of accacia
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span>
+thorns, she is indeed the true widow of Christ, who,
+after His death as Dante says,</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="o1">".&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;. slighted and obscure</p>
+<p>Thousand and hundred years and more, remain'd</p>
+<p class="i1">Without a single suitor, till he came."<a name="FNanchor_77" id="FNanchor_77" href="#Footnote_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The bridesmaids, Hope pointing to the sky, and
+Charity holding a heart and crowned with flowers that
+start into tiny flames, come floating out of the choir
+of angels towards the pale bride whose veil is bounded
+only by her hair. Heedless of the children of earth,
+who encouraged by the barking of a dog, press the
+thorns still deeper into her flesh, she gazes at St.
+Francis, and shows him the pink and white roses of
+paradise and the Madonna lilies which are flowering
+behind her wings.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chastity.</i>&mdash;The different stages of perfection in the
+religious life are portrayed in this allegory. To the
+left St. Francis welcomes three aspirants to the order&mdash;Bernard
+of Quintavalle&mdash;typifying the franciscans;
+St. Clare&mdash;the Second Order; and one, who is said to
+be the poet Dante, in the near foreground in a florentine
+dress of the period&mdash;the Third Order. Two
+angels in the central group impose hands and pour the
+purifying water upon the head of a youth standing
+naked in a font, and two other angels bend forward
+with the franciscan habits in their hands, while leaning
+over the wall of the fortress are two figures, one presenting
+the banner of purity the other the shield of
+fortitude to the novice. On either side stands a grey-bearded,
+mail-clad warrior, lash and shield in hand to
+denote the perpetual warfare and self-mortification of
+those who follow St. Francis. To the right three
+youthful warrior-monks, beautiful of feature, bearing
+the signs of the Passion in their hands, aided by one in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span>
+the garb of a Penitent with angels' wings, are chasing
+away the tempting spirits of the flesh from the rocks
+about the fortress into the abyss below. The winged
+boar falls backwards, followed by a demon and a
+winged skeleton emblematic of the perpetual death of
+the wicked, while poor blindfolded Love writhes beneath
+the lash of Penitence. But just as he is about
+to spring down with the rest, his string of human hearts
+still slung across his shoulders, he snatches up a sprig
+of roses from the rocks.</p>
+
+<p>Above, out of a walled enclosure guarded at each
+end by towers like every mediæval castle on the hills
+about Italian towns, rises a crenulated fortress. At
+the open window of the magnificent central tower is
+seen Chastity, veiled and in prayer as if unconscious of
+the scene below, her vigilance typified by the bell
+o'erhead. She appears to be reading, by the light of
+a taper, from the open book held before her by an
+angel, while another is bringing her the palm of sanctity.
+They are no longer Giotto's bird-like creations,
+but stately messengers with splendid human forms
+uplifted by outstretched wings their garments brought
+into long curved lines by the rapidity of their flight.</p>
+
+<p><i>Obedience.</i>&mdash;Under an open <i>loggia</i> sits the winged
+figure of Obedience in the habit of a franciscan,
+holding his finger to his lips as he places a wooden
+yoke (symbol of obedience) upon the neck of a
+kneeling friar. Prudence, with double face, holding
+a glass mirror and a compass, and Humility, with her
+lighted taper to illumine the path to paradise, are
+seated on either side, perhaps to show that he who
+imposes obedience upon others must be prudent and
+humble himself. An angel upon the right is pointing
+these virtues out to a centaur (symbolizing pride, envy
+and avarice), who, thrown back upon his haunches
+by a ray of light from the mirror of Prudence, is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span>
+thus stopped from tempting away the young novice
+kneeling on the opposite side, encouraged in his act
+of renunciation by the angel who holds him firmly by
+the wrist. Two divine hands appear from the clouds
+above and are holding St. Francis by his yoke, while
+two angels unroll the rules of his order.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Glory of St. Francis.</i>&mdash;The throng of fair-haired
+angels, seem, as they move towards the throne
+of the saint and press around it, to be intoning a hymn
+of perpetual praise and jubilation. Their figures,
+against the dull gold background, are seen white and
+strong, with here and there a touch of mauve or pale
+blue in their garments bringing out more distinctly the
+feeling of light and joyousness. The perpetual movement
+of the heavenly choir, some blowing long trumpets,
+others playing on flutes and tambourines, while many
+gaze upwards in silent prayer as they float upon the
+clouds, contrasts strangely with the stiff and silent
+figure of St. Francis, who in his robe of gold and
+black brocade, a brilliant light behind him, looks like
+some marvellous eastern deity, recalling Dante's words
+of how he</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="i7">"... arose</p>
+<p>A sun upon the world, as duly this</p>
+<p>From Ganges doth: ..."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the dimness of the cave-like church built to serve
+the purpose of a tomb and keep men's ideas familiar
+with the thought of death, these frescoes are glimpses
+into the heaven of the blest. Watch them at all
+hours of the day and there will be some new wonder
+to be noted, a face among the crowd which seems
+fairer than the rest, or, as the sunshine moves across,
+a flash of colours in an angel's wing like the sudden
+coming of a rainbow in a cloudy sky. And who shall
+forget the strange play of fancy as the candle light,
+during an afternoon service, mingles with the strong
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span>
+sunshine upon the white figures of saints and the
+whiter figure of the Lady Poverty, who appear to
+move towards us from amidst a blaze of golden
+clouds, until gradually as the evening closes in and
+the candles go out one by one, they are set once more
+in the shadow of their backgrounds like so many
+images of snow.</p>
+
+<p><i>La Capella del Sacramento, or the Chapel of St. Nicholas.</i>&mdash;Giotto
+left one scholar at Assisi whose work it is
+easy to discover, but who, as far as name and personality
+are concerned, is unknown, and shares in the
+general mystery which surrounds both the builders
+and painters of San Francesco. All we know is that
+he followed his master's style and great laws of composition
+even more closely than Taddeo Gaddi, and
+that he possessed much charm and originality. By the
+kind help of Mr Bernhard Berenson we have been able
+to group together some of the works of this interesting
+artist, who was evidently working at Assisi between 1300
+and 1310 when he executed the last nine frescoes of
+the Upper Church illustrating the death and the
+miracles of St. Francis, decorated the Capella del
+Sacramento in the Lower Church with the legend
+of St. Nicholas, and painted a fine Crucifixion in the
+Confraternity of San Rufinuccio (see <a href="#Page_289">chap. x</a>). There
+is a very delightful panel picture also by him in the
+corridor of the Uffizzi (No. 20 in the corridor),
+with eight small scenes from the life of St. Cecilia.</p>
+
+<p>In a fresco over the arch on the inside of the
+Capella del Sacramento are portraits of the donors
+of the chapel, Cardinal Napoleone Orsini, who is
+being presented to Christ by St. Francis, and his
+younger brother Giovanni (below him is written
+Dñs Joñs Gaetanus frater ejus), presented by St.
+Nicholas. It helps to date the decoration of the
+chapel, for we know that Giovanni Orsini received
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span>
+the cardinal's hat in 1316, while here he is represented
+in the white dress of a deacon confirming
+the general opinion that these frescoes must have
+been painted before that date.<a name="FNanchor_78" id="FNanchor_78" href="#Footnote_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a></p>
+
+<p>St. Nicholas of Myra, generally known as St.
+Nicholas of Bari, both during his life and after his
+death was forever coming to the assistance of the
+oppressed; he did not even object to be the patron
+saint of drunkards and thieves, as well as of maiden
+virtue. He can easily be recognised in art by the
+three purses or golden balls which are always placed
+at his feet, in reference to the first kind action he
+performed when a wealthy young noble. This incident
+is charmingly recorded in the chapel upon the
+right wall near the entrance. Three sleeping maidens
+are lying by their father's side, and St. Nicholas, who
+has heard of their poverty, throws in three bags of gold
+as he passes by the open window. This charitable deed
+has made him a famous saint; when Dante is in Purgatory
+he hears the spirit of Hugh Capet recounting various
+acts of virtuous poverty and generosity, among which</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="i6">"... it spake the gift</p>
+<p>Of Nicholas, which on the maidens he</p>
+<p>Bounteous bestow'd, to save their youthful prime</p>
+<p>Unblemish'd...."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Below (the picture immediately beneath is entirely
+obliterated) is a very beautiful composition, recalling
+the same artist's treatment of St. Clare and her nuns in
+the Upper Church. In front of a Gothic chapel of
+white and black marble stands St. Nicholas, between
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span>
+two placid and portly friars, listening to the petition of
+a despairing father who implores his protection for his
+three sons, unjustly condemned to death by a wicked
+consul. The figures of the prisoners, with halters round
+their necks, followed by sympathising friends, are full of
+movement and life; St. Nicholas is particularly charming,
+dressed in his episcopal robes, slightly bending forward
+and listening attentively to the doleful tale.<a name="FNanchor_79" id="FNanchor_79" href="#Footnote_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a></p>
+
+<p>The legend is continued upon the opposite side,
+where he arrives just in time to save the youths. The
+figure of the kneeling victim expecting the blow every
+moment to fall upon his neck and the majestic attitude
+of the saint in the act of seizing the sword, are finely
+rendered, but Giotto would hardly have approved of
+the complicated building decked with much superfluous
+decoration which is supposed to represent the
+city gate.</p>
+
+<p>The fresco below relates a vision of the Emperor
+Constantine who had ordered his three generals, unjustly
+accused of treason, to be put to death. St.
+Nicholas appears and commands him to release the
+prisoners, who are in a wooden cage by the bed.</p>
+
+<p>High up in the lunette of this wall is an interesting
+fresco referring to a humorous incident of one of the
+saint's miracles. It appears that a Jew, hearing that
+St. Nicholas gave special protection to property, placed
+a statue of him in his house; but it must be remembered
+that St. Nicholas was also the patron of thieves,
+and one day all the Jew's possessions disappeared.
+Enraged by the failure of his plan he administered a
+sound thrashing to the statue, which stands in a beautiful
+niche with spiral columns, behaving much in the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span>
+same way as the childish sons of faith in Southern Italy
+who turn the Madonna's picture to the wall when
+their prayers have not been effectual. In this case
+St. Nicholas was so deeply offended that he appeared
+in a vision to the thieves, who kindly restored the
+goods of the irate Jew. There are dim remains of
+frescoes on this wall, but it is impossible to make out
+what they represent. Other wonderful miracles are
+related upon the opposite side, beginning high up in the
+lunette, where, with some difficulty, we distinguished
+St. Nicholas restoring a child to life who has been
+taken from his parents and killed by evil spirits. Below
+is a scene in a banqueting hall, where a king, seated at
+table, takes a goblet of wine from the hand of a slave
+boy. St. Nicholas, in full episcopals, performs one of
+his many ærial flights, lays his hand upon the boy's
+head and carries him back to his parents. In the
+scene beneath St. Nicholas is restoring to his people
+another youth, who, it seems, was nearly drowned
+while filling a goblet with water for the altar of
+St. Nicholas; or it may be the continuation of the
+preceding legend, and show the home-coming of the
+captive boy from the king's palace. It is one of the
+most charmingly rendered of the series; the impetuous
+action of the mother rising with outstretched
+arms to welcome her son, and the calm dignity of the
+father's embrace, are almost worthy of Giotto himself.
+A small dog bounds forward to add his welcome to
+the others, while St. Nicholas surveys the scene with
+great gravity, every line of his figure denoting dignity,
+power and repose.</p>
+
+<p>On one side of the arched entrance to the chapel
+is a fresco of St. Mary Magdalen, on the opposite
+side is St. John the Baptist, and in the vaulting of the
+arch, on the right, are St. Anthony of Padua with
+St. Francis; St. Albino with St. George; St. Agnes
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span>
+holding a lamb, perhaps the most graceful of the
+figures, with St. Cecilia crowned with roses. Opposite
+are St. Rufino and St. Nicholas holding a book; St.
+Sabino and St. Vittorino, both Assisan martyrs; and
+St. Claire with St. Catherine of Alexandria. But the
+quality of this artist will be only half realised if the
+single figures of the apostles on the walls below the
+scenes from the life of Nicholas are overlooked.
+Very grave and reposeful they lend an air of great
+solemnity to the chapel, and as Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle
+remark, they are "after those of Giotto in the
+Ciborium of Rome, the most admirable that were
+produced in the early times of the revival...."</p>
+
+<p>It is as difficult to explain why the Chapel of St.
+Nicholas possesses so much charm, as it is to understand
+why people seldom spend more than sufficient
+time to read the few lines in their guide-book about
+it and verify for themselves that the frescoes are there;
+but perhaps when some fifty frescoes by Giotto have
+to be realised in about an hour, which is the time
+usually devoted to them by the visitor to Assisi, it is
+not surprising that Giotto's follower, the closest and
+the best he ever had, should be neglected.</p>
+
+<p>The stained glass windows, remarkable rather for
+their harmony than for their depth of tone, belong also
+to the early part of the fourteenth century, and are decorated
+with the Orsini arms. On the left side of the
+central window is a charming design of St. Francis in
+a rose-coloured mantle, recommending to Christ the
+young Giovanni Gaetano Orsini, who is said to be
+buried in the chapel. His monument behind the altar,
+erected soon after his death in 1347, is, according to
+Vasari, the work of Agostino da Siena, a pupil of
+Giovanni Pisano. Very calm and youthful-looking
+the Cardinal lies at full length in long folded robes
+while two angels guard his slumbers.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span></p>
+
+<p>There is yet another treasure in St. Nicholas' Chapel;
+a lovely picture on panel of the Virgin and saints (rather
+difficult to see as it is against the light over the altar),
+by a Sienese artist who possesses some of Simone Martini's
+talent of depicting ethereal and serene Madonnas.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Chapel of St. Maria Maddalena.</i>&mdash;According to
+a legend given by Padre Angeli the chapel was built
+and consecrated by St. Bonaventure while General of
+the franciscan order towards the end of the thirteenth
+century. The three frescoes on the left wall certainly
+belong to Giotto's time, and if not actually painted by
+him they appear to be from his designs, and not merely
+copies of the Paduan frescoes which they resemble.
+Above the frescoes of the Raising of Lazarus and the
+Anointing of Christ's feet is the Communion of the
+Magdalen, rendered with such simplicity yet with so
+much religious feeling and solemnity that we realise
+it is indeed the last communion of the saint on earth.
+The attitude of the priest, the splendid drapery of the
+man in orange-coloured garments, and the way in which
+the figure of the saint being carried by angels to heaven
+completes the composition, bear unmistakably the impress
+of Giotto's style before the Paduan period
+(1206).</p>
+
+<p>The "Noli mi Tangere" upon the opposite wall may
+also have been designed by him, but the type of the
+faces are heavier than his, and the angels are no longer
+swift spirits of the heavens ending in flame and cloud.</p>
+
+<p>The painter, as if wishing to remind the faithful of
+the new life symbolised in the resurrection of Christ,
+has covered the rocks and ground with flowering rosebushes
+and exquisitely designed tufts of ferns and leaves.</p>
+
+<p>The story of the Prince and Princess of Marseilles is
+a favourite subject with the Giottesque school. The
+legend tells that when Mary Magdalen arrived at Marseilles
+with Lazarus and Martha, she met a prince and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span>
+his wife who were praying to the gods for a son, and
+she persuaded them to pray instead to the God of the
+Christians. Their desire was granted, and they were
+converted, but evidently being of a cautious turn of
+mind, they resolved to sail at once for Jerusalem and
+find out if St. Peter's teaching agreed with that of the
+Magdalen. On the way a terrible storm arose, and
+during the tempest the princess gave birth to a son, and
+died. The sailors insisted that her body must be thrown
+overboard or the storm, they said, would not abate; at
+last the prince was forced to lay the body of his wife
+upon a rocky island in the midst of the ocean, and
+calling upon Mary Magdalen for help, he left the child
+wrapt in the cloak of its dead mother by her side and
+continued the journey to the Holy Land. His visit
+to St. Peter ended in his complete conversion, and upon
+his return to France he stopped at the rocky island
+where he found his wife and son alive and well, thanks
+to the prayers of St. Mary Magdalen. They returned
+to Marseilles, the vessel being guided by angels, and
+the whole town became Christian.</p>
+
+<p>Above the arch facing the altar is a very charming
+fresco of the Magdalen standing at the entrance of
+a cave, her hair falling like a mantle of cloth of gold
+about her, to receive the gift of a garment from a
+charitable hermit who had heard of her life of austerity
+and privation among the mountains of Provence.</p>
+
+<p>The single figures of St. Clare, St. Mary
+Magdalen and St. Rufino, as well as the saints in
+the vaulting opposite the altar, no longer follow
+Giotto's designs and are far inferior to the other
+frescoes. Teobaldo Pontano, Bishop of Assisi between
+1314 and 1329, is supposed to be the kneeling
+figure at the feet of St. Rufino as donor of the
+chapel. It is so unlikely Giotto should have repeated
+his later Paduan designs in a feebler manner,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span>
+as seen here, or that a pupil should have slavishly
+copied them, that it seems more probable the chapel
+dates from the time of St. Bonaventure, when its
+decoration may have been begun by Giotto and completed
+by some later Florentine follower called in
+by the bishop who desired to be buried here. The
+Pontano arms decorate the beautiful stained glass
+windows, which certainly date from the first half of
+the fourteenth century, and are the finest in the
+Lower Church with the exception of those in St.
+Martin's chapel. Each figure has a claim on our
+admiration, but especially lovely is the figure of the
+Magdalen whose hair falls to her feet in heavy waves
+of deepest gold. In the last division of the right
+window is the death of the saint, with the lions at
+her feet which are supposed to have dug her grave.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Chapel of St. Antonio di Padova.</i>&mdash;Built by the
+Assisan family of Lelli in the fourteenth century, it
+was once ornamented by Florentine frescoes of the
+same date which were destroyed when the roof fell
+in, and it has now nothing of interest save the windows.
+These contain some naïve scenes from the life of St.
+Anthony; among them may be noticed his preaching
+to the fish which raise their heads above the water
+to listen.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chapel of San Stefano.</i>&mdash;This like the last, has only
+very decadent frescoes by Adone Doni and is solely
+interesting for its windows (second half of fourteenth
+century), where below the symbols of the Evangelists
+are single figures of saints, among them King Louis
+and the royal Bishop of Toulouse. Cardinal Gentile
+di Montefiore, founder of the chapel of S. Martino, was
+also the donor of this one and is represented in the
+right window with his crest, a tree growing out of
+a blue mound against an orange background.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Chapel of St. Catherine, or Capella del Crocifisso.</i>&mdash;This
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span>
+chapel was built by order of Cardinal Albornoz
+towards the end of the fourteenth century when
+on his passage through Umbria to reconquer the
+rebellious cities for the Roman Pontiff. He conceived
+at Assisi so great a love for the memory of St. Francis
+that he desired to be buried there; but though his body
+was brought to Assisi from Viterbo where he died
+in 1367, it was afterwards carried to his bishopric
+at Toledo "at small expense," writes an economical
+chronicler, "upon men's shoulders"; only a cardinal's
+hat, suspended from the roof of the chapel, now
+remains to remind us of the warlike Spanish prelate.
+The frescoes here have been assigned to that mythical
+person Buffalmaco, of whom Vasari relates such
+humorous tales. All we can say is that they belong
+to the second half of the fourteenth century and are
+not very pleasing scenes from the life and martyrdom
+of St. Catherine of Alexandria, with a fresco of Cardinal
+Albornoz receiving consecration from a pope
+under the auspices of St. Francis. The windows are
+the first things to shine out amidst the gloom as one
+enters the Lower Church. Especially attractive are
+the figures of St. Francis and St. Clare, their cloaks
+of the colour of a tea-rose, and of the other saints
+in green and russet-brown standing in a frame of
+twisted ribbons tied in bows above their heads. Unfortunately
+the glass has been repaired in some places
+by careless modern workers and we see such strange
+results as the large head of a bearded man upon the
+body of St. Catherine, high up in the left hand
+window.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo212" id="illo212"></a>
+<img src="images/illus212.jpg" width="456" height="555" alt="THE OLD CEMETERY OF SAN FRANCESCO"  />
+<p class="caption">THE OLD CEMETERY OF SAN FRANCESCO</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>The Chapel of St. Anthony the Abbot.</i><a name="FNanchor_80" id="FNanchor_80" href="#Footnote_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a>&mdash;About 1367
+two monuments were erected in this chapel over the
+sepulchres of two murdered princes&mdash;Messer Ferdinando
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span>
+Blasco, nephew of the Cardinal Albornoz,
+and his son Garzia. Some say they met their
+death at Spoleto where the father was vice-governor,
+others that they were killed at Assisi close to the
+convent of S. Appolinare by the citizens before they
+submitted to the kindly rule of the Cardinal. The
+chapel had been built by a liberal Assisan gentleman
+who also left money for its decoration; but if
+there were paintings (Vasari mentions some by Pace
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span>
+di Fænza) nothing now remains but a rather feeble
+picture by a scholar of Pinturicchio. The white
+stone monuments, the white-washed walls and the
+total absence of colour gives an uncared-for look to
+this out-of-the way corner of the church. A much
+brighter spot is the old cemetery opening out of this
+chapel, which was built in the fourteenth century
+with the intention of adorning it with frescoes in
+imitation of the Campo Santo at Pisa. The double
+cloister seen against a background of cypresses and
+firs, above which rises the northern side of the Basilica,
+form a pretty group of buildings, and can be better
+enjoyed now than in former days, when the bones
+of Assisan nobles and franciscan friars were piled
+in the open galleries.</p>
+
+<p>The Basilica of San Francesco became the burial
+place, not only of some of the saint's immediate followers,
+but also of many distinguished personages. The
+large stone tomb at the end of the church is always
+pointed out as that of "Ecuba," Queen of Cyprus,
+who is said to have come to Assisi in 1229 to give
+thanks for having been cured of an illness by the intercession
+of St. Francis, when she gave the porphyry vase
+full of ultramarine which is still to be seen, though
+now empty of its precious contents. She is said to have
+died in 1240, and to have been buried in San Francesco.
+But this "Ecuba" is a mysterious person not
+to be found in the history of her country, which has
+led some writers to say that it is Iolanthe, the second
+wife of Frederick II, who lies here. It is one of
+those tombs common in the time of Giovanni Pisani,
+but bearing only a faint resemblance to his masterpiece
+in the Church of San Domenico in Perugia.
+"On one side," says Vasari, in surprise at the novelty
+of the style, "the Queen, seated upon a chair, places
+her right leg over the left in a singular and modern
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span>
+manner, which position for a lady is ungraceful, and
+cannot be regarded as a suitable action for a royal
+monument."</p>
+
+<p>The tomb to the right was erected soon after 1479
+in memory of Niccolò Specchi, an Assisan physician
+of renown attached to the persons of Eugenius IV, and
+Niccolò V.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tomb of St. Francis.</i>&mdash;Although it had always been
+supposed that St. Francis lay beneath the high altar,
+no one knew precisely the spot where Elias had hidden
+him. In the last centuries many attempts were made
+to find the tomb by driving galleries in every direction
+into the bed of rock on which the Basilica stands;<a name="FNanchor_81" id="FNanchor_81" href="#Footnote_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a>
+but all failed, until more energetic measures were taken
+in 1818. And after fifty nights of hard work, conducted
+with the greatest secrecy (it would seem as though the
+spirit of Elias still presided over the workers), below
+the high altar, encased in blocks of travertine taken
+from the Roman wall near the temple of Minerva, and
+fitted together neatly as those of an Etruscan wall, was
+found the sepulchral urn of St. Francis. It was evidently
+the same in which he had been laid in the
+Church of San Giorgio, untouched till that day.
+Round the skeleton were found various objects,
+placed, perhaps, by the Assisans, who in this seem
+to have followed the custom of their earliest ancestors,
+as offerings to the dead. There were several silver
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span>
+coins, amongst them some of Lucca of 1181 and
+1208, and a Roman ring of the second century, with
+the figure of Pallas holding a Victory in her right
+hand engraved on a red cornelian. Five Umbrian
+bishops, four cardinals, numberless priests and archæologists
+visited the spot to verify the truth of the discovery,
+and finally published the tidings far and wide,
+which brought greater crowds than ever to Assisi, and
+among them no less a personage than the Emperor
+Francis I, of Austria. Donations poured in for building
+a chapel beneath the Lower Church round the
+saint's tomb, and in six months the work was completed
+by Giuseppe Brizzi of Assisi. The citizens,
+in their zeal, decorated it with marble altars and
+statues, until the tradition treasured by the people of
+a hidden chapel below the Basilica and rivalling it in
+richness was almost realised, and they flocked down
+the dark staircases with lighted torches to witness the
+accomplishment of the legends weaved by their forefathers
+(see p. <a href="#Page_136">136</a>). It is a most impressive sight to
+attend mass here with the peasants in early morning
+ere they go forth to their work in the fields. Silently
+they kneel with bowed heads near the tomb, touching
+it now and again through the grating with their rosaries;
+the acolytes move slowly about the altar and the voices
+of the priests are hushed, for here at least all feel the
+solemnity of a religious rite. The candles burn dimly
+with a smoky flame, the sanctuary lamps cast a flickering
+red light upon the marble pavement and the walls
+cut out of the living rock, and with the darkness which
+seems to press around is the damp smell, reminding us
+that we are indeed in the very bowels of the Assisan
+mountain.</p>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">CHAPTER VII</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center b175"><i>The Sienese Masters in the Lower
+Church. The Convent</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>
+... "Je donnerais pour ce caveau toutes les églises de
+Rome."&mdash;<span class="smcap">H. Taine.</span> <i>Voyages en Italie. Pérouse et Assisi.</i>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">The Chapel of St. Martin</span><a name="FNanchor_82" id="FNanchor_82" href="#Footnote_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="dropcap">T</span>he best masters of Tuscany having, by the beginning
+of the thirteenth century, covered most of
+the walls of San Francesco with choice work, it now
+remained for Siena to send artists to complete their
+loveliness by effigies of calmly sweet Madonnas and
+saints whose gentle beauty seemed rightly fitted for
+their Umbrian surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>The first to come, probably very few years after
+Giotto had left, was Simone Martini, "the most lovable,"
+Mr Berenson calls him, "of all the artists
+before the Renaissance."<a name="FNanchor_83" id="FNanchor_83" href="#Footnote_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a> He married Giovanna
+Memmi, a Sienese, whose brother Lippo Memmi
+often helped him in minor works; this may account
+for the confusion between the two, and why he is so
+often called by his brother-in-law's surname. One of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span>
+the artist's claims to immortality, the highest, according
+to Vasari who was not partial to the Sienese, was
+the praise he won from Petrarch for the portraits he
+painted on more than one occasion of Madonna Laura.
+Simone's talents were sung by the "love-devoted"
+Tuscan poet who calls him "mio Simon," and in one
+perfect sonnet tells how he must surely have been in
+paradise and seen the loveliness of Madonna Laura, as
+he has drawn her features with such fidelity that all on
+earth must perforce acknowledge her beauty.</p>
+
+<p>The Chapel of St. Martin at Assisi is filled with
+such faces as Petrarch describes. It possesses, too, all
+the varied colour of a garden, only a garden not inhabited
+by earthly mortals, but by gentle knights and
+fairy kings wearing wonderful crowns of beaten gold,
+with cherubs' heads, flowers and moons upon their
+surface, and women who hold their lilies with caressing
+fingers. All gives way before his sense of the
+beautiful, the ornate and the charming, so that he
+creates a world apart of saints and angels with a feeling
+of remoteness about them which is one of the most
+striking features of his art. He loved all that was
+joyous; he depicted no tragic scenes; his saints have
+already won their crowns in heaven, his kings are conquerors,
+and around a death-bed the angels sing. He
+may sometimes fail as a story-teller, and his compositions
+do not always give the same sense of perfection
+as those of other stronger artists, but his very faults are
+lovable, and all can be forgiven for the exquisite finish of
+his paintings, which, in their brilliant colouring, are like a
+piece of old embroidery where design and hues have
+been woven in by patient fingers. "To convey his
+feeling for beauty and grace and splendour," says Mr
+Berenson, "Simone possessed means more than sufficient.
+He was a master of colour as few have been
+before him or after him. He had a feeling for line
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span>
+always remarkable, and once, at least, attaining to a
+degree of perfection not to be surpassed. He understood
+decorative effects as a great musician understands
+his instruments."<a name="FNanchor_84" id="FNanchor_84" href="#Footnote_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a></p>
+
+<p>It is a little difficult to find out where Simone
+begins his legend of St. Martin, as he seems to
+have fitted in the different scenes just where he
+could, thinking, as was only right, more of the effect
+of decoration than of the sequence of the story. The
+two frescoes on the left wall refer to the well-known
+act of charity, when St. Martin, a young Lombard
+soldier serving in the army of the Emperor Constantine
+in Gaul, met, on a bitter winter's day, a beggar
+outside the gates of Amiens, and having nothing but
+the clothes he wore divided his cloak with the poor
+man. It is not one of Simone's pleasing compositions;
+far better is the next where Christ appears to
+the saint in a dream, wearing the cloak he had given
+in charity and saying to the angels who surround
+him: "Know ye who hath thus arrayed me? My
+servant Martin, though yet unbaptised, hath done
+this." The face of the young saint is very calm
+and palely outlined against his golden aureole as
+he lies asleep, clasping his throat gently with one
+hand. With what patience has Simone drawn the
+open-work of the sheets, the pattern on the counterpane,
+the curtain about the bed; no detail has been
+passed over. And who can forget his angels, the
+profile of one, the thick waving hair of another, and
+the grand pose of the standing figure, a little behind
+Christ, whose head is poised so stately upon a well-moulded
+neck.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:483px"><a name="illo219" id="illo219"></a>
+<img src="images/illus219.jpg" width="483" height="650" alt="THE KNIGHTHOOD OF ST. MARTIN BY SIMONE MARTINI"  />
+<p class="caption">THE KNIGHTHOOD OF ST. MARTIN BY SIMONE MARTINI</p>
+
+<p class="caption_lt">(<span class="smcap">D. Anderson</span>&mdash;<i>photo</i>)]</p>
+</div>
+<p>Exactly opposite are two scenes belonging to the
+early times of the saint's life when he was yet a
+soldier. In one the Emperor Constantine is giving
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span>
+him his sword, while an attendant buckles on the
+spurs of knighthood; here also, as in most of the
+frescoes, we pick out single figures to dwell on, such
+as the youth with a falcon on his wrist, whose profile
+is clearly outlined yet tender, with that pale red-golden
+tinge over the face by which Simone always
+charms us. Remarkable for grace and motion is the
+man playing on the mandoline, with a sad dreamy
+face, who seems to sway to the sounds of his own
+music; whilst almost comic is the player on the double
+pipes, with his curious headgear and tartan cloak.</p>
+
+<p>The next scene is divided by a rocky ridge, behind
+which is seen the army of the Gauls, who, by the way,
+have Assisan lions on their shields. St. Martin, after
+refusing to accept his share of the donations to the
+soldiers, declares his intention of leaving the army to
+become a priest, and when accused of cowardice by
+the Emperor, he offers to go forth and meet the enemy
+without sword or shield. Simone pictures him as he
+steps forth upon the perilous enterprise, holding the
+cross and pointing to the sky, as he refuses the helmet
+held out to him by the Emperor. Next day, says the
+legend, the Gauls laid down their arms, having submitted
+to the word of St. Martin who was then
+allowed to quit the world for the religious life.</p>
+
+<p>On the opposite wall, above the apparition of Christ
+with the cloak, we see St. Martin no longer in soldier's
+garb, but as the holy Bishop of Tours. The saint has
+fallen into a reverie whilst saying mass, and in vain a
+priest tries to rouse him by laying a hand upon his
+shoulder for his eyes remain closed, and the kneeling
+priest waits patiently with the book of the Gospels
+upon his knee. Simone never surpassed the dignity,
+the religious feeling, the quiet repose and ease expressed
+in the figure of St. Martin; while he has kept the
+scene as simple as one of Giotto's frescoes, thus
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span>
+making it the most perfect among these compositions.
+To the left is a much ruined picture of the restoration
+of a child to life through the prayers of the saint, who
+was preaching at Chartres. Among a crowd of people
+one figure, with a Florentine headgear such as Andrea
+del Castagno paints, stands clearly out; below a small
+child can be discerned stretching out little hands towards
+the kneeling bishop.</p>
+
+<p>Above this again, almost too high to be clearly seen,
+is the death of St. Hilary of Poitiers, at which St.
+Martin assisted. One of the mourners has a mantle of
+turquoise blue, a beautiful piece of colour like the sky
+seen through the arches of the Gothic windows.</p>
+
+<p>On the other wall, over the fresco where St. Martin
+receives knighthood, is recorded the legend of how
+"as he went to the church on a certain day, meeting
+a poor man naked, he gave him his inner robe, and
+covered himself as he best might with his cope. And
+the archdeacon, indignant, offering him a short and
+narrow vestment, he received it humbly, and went up
+to celebrate mass. And a globe of fire appeared above
+his head, and when he elevated the host, his arms being
+exposed by the shortness of the sleeves, they were
+miraculously covered with chains of gold and silver,
+suspended on them by angels."<a name="FNanchor_85" id="FNanchor_85" href="#Footnote_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a></p>
+
+<p>The next picture, which is very ruined, represents
+the visit of St. Martin to the Emperor Valentinian,
+who, because he had rudely kept his seat in his presence,
+suddenly found it to be on fire, and, as the
+legend says, "he burnt that part of his body upon
+which he sat, whereupon, being compelled to rise,
+contrite and ashamed, he embraced Martin, and granted
+all that he required of him."</p>
+
+<p>Above this is the death of St. Martin, with a graceful
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span>
+flight of angels hovering over the bier singing as
+they prepare to carry his soul to heaven. Very fine is
+the fresco in the lunette of the entrance, where Cardinal
+Gentile, in his franciscan habit, is kneeling before the
+saint who bends forward to raise him from so humble
+a position. But in the single figures of saints, in the
+arch of this chapel, standing like guardian deities within
+their Gothic niches, Simone rivals greater artists in
+grace and strange beauty. In honour of the franciscan
+donor the chief franciscan saints are depicted beside
+two others of universal fame. St. Francis and St.
+Anthony of Padua, and below them St. Catherine of
+Alexandria and St. Mary Magdalen; on the other
+side, St. Louis, King of France and St. Louis, Bishop
+of Toulouse, and below them St. Clare and St. Elisabeth
+of Hungary. Nowhere has St. Clare received
+so true an interpretation of her gentle saintliness as in
+this painting by Simone, and he has surpassed his other
+works in the exquisite drawing of the hand which
+holds her habit to one side. It would seem as though
+in these saints he had attained the limits of his power
+of expressing types of pure beauty, were it not for the
+half figures in the embrasures of the window of such
+finish and subtle charm as to haunt us like some strain
+of long remembered music. There is a bishop in a
+cope of creamy white with gold embroidery, a hermit
+with a long brown beard, and saints who calmly pray
+with clasped hands. The broad white band of pale
+shadowed fur is low enough to show the graceful line
+of the neck of the young saint in the left hand window,
+his hair tinged with pale red and his face so fair as to
+seem a shadow upon the wall, coming and going in the
+play of light.</p>
+
+<p>So enthralling is the study of the frescoes that it is
+possible to leave the chapel without noticing the stained-glass
+windows, perhaps the loveliest in the church
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span>
+where all are lovely. They seem to belong to the
+same epoch as the paintings, and in one or two instances
+a figure may have been inspired by them, such
+as the angels with sword and shield who resemble
+Simone's angels in the upper part of the fresco of
+St. Martin's death. Cardinal Gentile was in all probability
+the donor of these as well as of the chapel, for
+he is represented in the central window kneeling before
+St. Martin, who is in full episcopals. These windows
+are dazzling; there are warriors in red and green,
+saints standing against circles of cream-tinted leaves,
+St. Jerome in magenta-coloured vestments harmonising
+strangely with the crimson of his cardinal's hat; and
+St. Anthony of Padua in violet shaded with paler
+lights as on the petals of a Florentine iris. A saint
+in white is placed against a scarlet background, another
+in pale china blue against a sky of deep Madonna blue,
+and all these colours lie side by side like masses of
+jewels of every shade.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving we find to the left of the papal throne a
+small chapel ornamented only by a window which has
+an apostle standing in a plain Gothic niche, the ruby
+red and tawny yellow of his mantle making a brilliant
+patch of colour in this dark corner of the church.
+The head is modern, but the figure, the circular pattern
+beneath, and the right half of the window with five
+medallions, are, according to Herr Thode, the oldest
+pieces of coloured glass in the lower church.</p>
+
+<p>Just above the papal throne is a handsomely
+worked ambo in red marble and mosaic, forming a
+kind of pulpit from which many illustrious people
+have preached, among them St. Bonaventure and St.
+Bernardine of Siena. In the recess a Florentine
+artist of the fourteenth century has painted the
+Coronation of the Virgin, a fresco worthy of its
+beautiful setting; and there is a crucifixion and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span>
+scenes from the martyrdom of St. Stanislaus of Poland
+by a follower of Pietro Lorenzetti, pupil of Simone
+Martini. St. Stanislaus was canonised in 1253 when
+Innocent IV, came to consecrate the Basilica, and
+upon this occasion a miracle took place which redounds
+to the honour of the saint. While Cardinal
+de Conti (afterwards Alexander IV,) was preaching,
+one of the capitals of a pillar above the pulpit fell
+upon the head of a woman in the congregation, and
+thinking she was dead, as she had sunk down without
+a groan, her neighbours covered her over with a
+cloak "so as not to disturb the solemnity of the
+occasion." But to their amazement when the sermon
+ended the woman rose up and gave thanks to St.
+Stanislaus, for the blow, far from doing her harm,
+had cured her of headaches to which she had been
+subject. The legend would long since have been
+forgotten, were it not that the capital which fell on
+that memorable day is still suspended by chains in
+the opposite corner of the nave, and often puzzles the
+visitor who does not know its history.</p>
+
+<p>Below the pulpit is a slab of red marble let into
+the wall with these simple words inscribed: "Hic
+jacet Jacoba sancta nobilisque romana," by which the
+Assisans commemorated the burial place of Madonna
+Giacoma da Settesoli the friend of St. Francis, who
+after his death lived at Assisi and followed the rule
+of the Third order until she died in 1239 (see p. <a href="#Page_114">114</a>).</p>
+
+<p><i>Left Transept.</i>&mdash;To Pietro Lorenzetti was given
+the work of decorating these walls with scenes
+from the Passion, and so far as completing the rich
+colour of the church be succeeded. But when studied
+as separate compositions they betray the weakness of
+an artist who, as Mr. Berenson remarks, "carries
+Duccio's themes to the utmost pitch of frantic
+feeling." Great prominence is given to the subject
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span>
+of the crucifixion where the vehement actions of the
+figures rather than the nobility of the types are pre-eminent.
+It may be of interest to some that the
+man on the white horse is said to be Gualtieri, Duke
+of Athens, the tyrant of Florence, whose arms Vasari
+says he discovered in the fresco which he describes
+as the work of Pietro Cavallini.</p>
+
+<p>A curious composition is that on the opposite wall
+where the disciples sit in awkward attitudes and the
+servants in the kitchen are seen cleaning the dishes
+while a dog hastily licks up the scraps. It would
+be difficult to know this represented a religious scene
+were it not for the large aureoles of the apostles.
+Nor has Pietro succeeded in giving solemnity to the
+scene of the Stigmata, where the strained position
+of St. Francis and the agitated movement of the
+Seraph partake of the general characteristics of these
+frescoes. But in his Madonna, St. Francis and St. John
+the Evangelist, below the crucifixion, Pietro Lorenzetti
+gives his very best and their faces we remember
+together with the saints of Simone Martini. Referring
+to this fresco M. Berenson says: "At Assisi,
+in a fresco by Pietro, of such relief and such enamel
+as to seem contrived of ivory and gold rather than
+painted, the Madonna holds back heart-broken tears
+as she looks fixedly at her child, who, Babe though
+he is, addresses her earnestly; but she remains unconsoled."<a name="FNanchor_86" id="FNanchor_86" href="#Footnote_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>Chapel of S. Giovanni Battista.</i><a name="FNanchor_87" id="FNanchor_87" href="#Footnote_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a>&mdash;Another lovely
+work by Pietro Lorenzetti is the triptych over the
+altar, the Madonna, St. Francis and St. John the
+Baptist, but here the action of the child leaning towards
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span>
+the Virgin and holding the end of her veil,
+is more caressing and suggestive of babyhood. Above
+are small heads of angels like those Pietro places in
+medallions round the frescoes in the south transept.
+This, and the panel picture over the altar in the
+opposite chapel, complete the works of the Sienese
+school in Assisi. The Umbrian school is represented
+by a large and unsympathetic picture by Lo Spagna
+(dated 1526), which is however considered by local
+admirers of the painter to be his masterpiece. It
+is a relief to turn from his yellow-eyed saints and
+hard colouring to the windows of this chapel which
+are remarkable for their harmony and depth of tone.<a name="FNanchor_88" id="FNanchor_88" href="#Footnote_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a>
+The figures of the central window date from the
+second half of the thirteenth century, those of the
+left window are at least two centuries later.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Sacristies.</i>&mdash;These open out of St. Giovanni's
+Chapel. Both are ornamented with handsomely carved
+cupboards of the sixteenth century where the friars
+store their vestments and costly lace, and which once
+were full of gold and silver vessels amassed during
+many centuries. But often during mediæval times
+of warfare the friars had to stand aside and see the
+sacristies sacked by the Perugians, or even the Assisans,
+when they must have envied the peace of
+mind of the first franciscans who, possessing nothing,
+could have no fear of robbers.<a name="FNanchor_89" id="FNanchor_89" href="#Footnote_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Devoted as the citizens were to the memory of
+St. Francis they do not seem to have hesitated, when
+in want of money, to help themselves liberally to
+the things in his church. At one time when the
+Baglioni were besieging Assisi, her despot Jacopo
+Fiumi gathered the citizens about him, and in an
+eloquent harangue called upon them to rob the church
+at once before the enemy had entered the gates, lest
+the treasure should fall into the hands of the Perugians.
+So the sacristies were rifled, and with the
+proceeds Jacopo Fiumi rebuilt the walls and the
+palaces which had fallen to ruin during the incessant
+fighting of past years. The next plunderers were
+the soldiers of Napoleon, and it is a marvel that so
+many things still remain. A cupboard in the inner
+sacristy contains a beautiful cross of rock-crystal ornamented
+with miniatures in blue enamel brought by
+St. Bonaventure as a gift from St. Louis of France;
+there is also the second rule of St. Francis which
+was sanctioned by Honorius III. Even more precious
+is a small and crumpled piece of parchment, with a
+blessing written in the big child-like writing of St.
+Francis, which he gave to Brother Leo at La Vernia
+after he had received the Stigmata. On one side he
+wrote part of the Laudes Creatoris, upon the other the
+biblical blessing:</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="o1">"<i>Benedicat tibi Dominus et custodiat te</i>:</p>
+<p><i>Ostendat faciem suam tibi et misereatur tui</i>:</p>
+<p><i>Convertat vultum suam ad te et de tibi pacem</i>":</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>and then below:</p>
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="o1">"<i>Dominus benedicat te, Frate Leo.</i>"</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Instead of the Latin, the saint signs with the Thau
+cross, which is of the shape of the mediæval gallows,
+and may have been yet another way of showing his
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span>
+humility by humbling himself even to the level of
+malefactors. Many pages have been written about
+this relic; the line by Brother Leo in explanation
+below the signature of St. Francis:</p>
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="o1">
+"<i>Simili modo fecit istud signum Thau cum capite manu sua,</i>"</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>has puzzled many people, but in a pamphlet by Mr
+Montgomery Carmichael<a name="FNanchor_90" id="FNanchor_90" href="#Footnote_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a> it has received a plausible
+translation. He thinks that <i>cum capite</i> refers to the
+small knob at the top of the Thau, by which St.
+Francis meant to represent a malefactor's head; the
+line would read thus: "in like manner with his own
+hand he made a cross with a head," and not "with
+his own head," as some believe. Mr Carmichael
+thinks the curious mound out of which the cross
+rises is a rough drawing of La Vernia. Above the
+benediction, in neatly formed letters, Brother Leo has
+written a short account of the sojourn at the Sacred
+Mount and of the Vision of the Seraph. This relic
+has been mentioned in the archives of the convent
+since 1348, and is always carried in procession at
+the commencement of the feast of the "Perdono" on
+July 31st.</p>
+
+<p>Almost more honoured by the faithful is the "Sacred
+Veil of the most Holy Virgin," which can only be exposed
+to the public in the presence of the Bishop of
+Assisi, and is shown in times of pilgrimage when the
+sacristy and church are full of men and women waiting
+for their turn to kiss the holy relic.</p>
+
+<p>The picture over the door, painted by Giunta
+Pisano (?) is always pointed out as a portrait of St.
+Francis, but as the painter's first visit to Assisi was
+in 1230 he can only have seen the body of the
+saint borne to its last resting-place in the Basilica,
+and even that is doubtful when we remember with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span>
+what secrecy the burial was performed. Here the
+face is pointed and emaciated, with a curious look
+in the eyes as though Giunta had desired to record
+his blindness. The figure is surrounded by small
+scenes from the miracles of St. Francis, performed
+during his lifetime and at his tomb in San Giorgio.
+But though in the so-called portraits of the saint,
+the artists think more of representing him as the
+symbol of asceticism and sanctity than of aiming at
+giving a true likeness, both this picture and a fresco
+painted in 1216 at Subiaco when the saint stayed
+there on his way to Spain, are not very dissimilar
+from the graphic description left us by Celano. He
+tells us that St. Francis "was rather below the middle
+stature with a small round head and a long pinched
+face, a full but narrow forehead and candid black
+eyes of medium size, his hair likewise was black;
+the brows were straight, the nose well-proportioned,
+thin and straight, the ears erect but small, and the
+temples flat; his speech was kindly, yet ardent and
+incisive; his voice powerful, sweet, clear and sonorous;
+his teeth were regular, white and set close; his
+lips thin and mobile, his beard was black and scant,
+his neck thin, his shoulders square; the arms were
+short, the hands small with long fingers and almond-shaped
+nails, his legs were thin, his feet small, his skin
+delicate, and he was very thin...."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo231" id="illo231"></a>
+<img src="images/illus231.jpg" width="650" height="427" alt="BIRD&#39;S EYE VIEW OF THE BASILICA AND CONVENT OF SAN FRANCESCO, FROM A DRAWING MADE IN 1820" />
+<p class="caption">BIRD&#39;S EYE VIEW OF THE BASILICA AND CONVENT OF SAN FRANCESCO, FROM A DRAWING MADE IN 1820</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Right Transept.</i><a name="FNanchor_91" id="FNanchor_91" href="#Footnote_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a>&mdash;On the walls between the Chapels
+of the Sacramento and of St. Maria Maddalena, Simone
+Martini has left some of his loveliest work in the half
+figures of franciscan saints he places near the Madonna.
+These are St. Francis, St. Louis of Toulouse, St.
+Elizabeth of Hungary, St. Clare clothed in the habit
+
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span>
+of her order, always to be recognised when painted
+by Simone by her heavy plaits of hair, St. Anthony
+of Padua with the lily, St. Louis of France with a
+crown of <i>fleur-de-lis</i>, and upon the right of the
+Virgin, a noble saint who may be Helen the mother
+of King Louis, as she too holds a sceptre with the
+lily of France on the top. Never had saints so
+majestic a queen as Simone's Madonna. The subdued
+greens and tawny reds of their mantles and
+their auburn hair look most beautiful against the gold
+ground which shines with dull light about them.
+Each of their aureoles bears a different pattern in
+raised <i>gesso</i>; a garland of flowers, a circle of human
+heads, suns, a tracery of roses and ivy, or yet again
+another of oak leaves. After Giotto's Allegories and
+the frescoes in San Martino, these saints are by far the
+loveliest things in San Francesco, and as they look
+towards us, ethereal, like a faint moon on a misty
+night, they seem the very incarnation of mediæval
+faith. Dante created women such as Matilda, who
+sings to him in Purgatory as she is picking flowers on
+a woodland river's edge, and Simone paints them and
+conveys their spirit in the faces of St. Clare and St.
+Elizabeth.</p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><i>The Convent</i></p>
+
+<p>It is natural to think that the Basilica and Convent
+built under the guidance of Elias was as we see it
+now in its full magnificence of chapels, porch, colonnades
+and cloisters. Certainly the essential form of the
+building has not been altered, but in the early days it
+stood isolated from the town, surrounded by such rocks
+as jut out among the grass in the ravine outside Porta
+S. Pietro, and approached by a drawbridge which
+made it resemble, even more than it does now, a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span>
+feudal stronghold guarding the Umbrian valley. Later
+on, as the life of the place centred ever more round
+the church of the saint, the citizens no longer built
+their houses near San Rufino or below the castle, but
+close to San Francesco, until a second town sprang
+up where once were only rough mountain pastures.
+It is still possible to form an idea of how it looked by
+following round the base of the hill by the Tescio,
+whence a wonderful and unique view of the northern
+side of church and convent is obtained (see
+<a href="#Page_363">Appendix</a>). Assisi lies hidden, and standing high
+above us, shutting out the view of the valley, is San
+Francesco; not the building with great arches we are
+familiar with, rising high above the vineyards, but a
+castle, seen clearly defined and strong against the sky,
+whose bastions clasp the hill top as powerfully as a
+good rider bestrides his horse. Oak copses cover the
+slopes from the convent wall straight down to the
+banks of the Tescio, where little mills are set above
+deep pools of emerald green water and narrow canals
+fringed by poplar trees. The minute detail of the
+landscape in this deep ravine gives a curious feeling
+that we are walking in the background of one of Pier
+della Francesca's pictures&mdash;even to the distant view
+of low-lying hills where the torrent makes the sudden
+bend round the mountain edge; and the contrast is
+strange between it and the fortress-church upon the
+dark hill, where deep shadows lie across it and
+lurk within the crannies of its traceries in the bay
+windows of the chapels and in the depths of
+jutting stones. Such was the massive building
+"Jacopo" planned to stand upon the mountain ridge,
+as much a part of the rocks and the red earth as the
+cypresses which crown the summit. And in the midst,
+but on the southern side, he placed, as if to balance the
+rest, a square and boldly conceived bell-tower rising
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span>
+high above the church.<a name="FNanchor_92" id="FNanchor_92" href="#Footnote_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> At the time it was the wonder
+of the Assisans, who boasted that for beauty as well as
+for solidity it could be counted among the first, not in
+Italy only, but in Europe. Bartolomeo of Pisa, came
+to cast one of the big bells, and together with his
+own name he inscribed those of Elias, Gregory IX,
+and Frederick II. On another bell, which has been
+recast, was graven a delightful couplet informing the
+faithful of the many services which consecrated bronze
+could render to the country round.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo235" id="illo235"></a>
+<img src="images/illus235.jpg" width="650" height="473" alt="SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE TESCIO" />
+<p class="caption">SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE TESCIO</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="ispec">"Sabbatha pango, funera plango, fulgura frango:</p>
+<p class="i1">Excito lentos, domo cruentos, dissipo ventos."</p>
+<p>("I ring in Sunday, I lament for the dead, the lightning I break,</p>
+<p>I hurry the sluggards, I vanquish the wicked, the winds I disperse.")</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>To the time of Elias also belongs the fine entrance
+to the Upper Church, where the Guelph lion and the
+eagle of Frederick II, record the liberality of both
+parties towards the building of the church, while the
+four animals round the wheel window seem to show
+that "Jacopo," notwithstanding his marked love for
+pure Gothic architecture, could not quite forget the
+strange but fascinating beasts of Lombard façades.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="illo238" id="illo238"></a>
+<img src="images/illus238.jpg" width="304" height="482" alt="STAIRCASE LEADING FROM THE UPPER TO THE
+LOWER PIAZZA OF SAN FRANCESCO" />
+<p class="caption">STAIRCASE LEADING FROM THE UPPER TO THE<br />
+LOWER PIAZZA OF SAN FRANCESCO</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>One friar in the fifteenth century inherited some of
+the enthusiasm of Elias for the basilica; this was
+Francesco Nani, the General of the franciscans,
+known as Francesco Sansone because his patron,
+Sixtus IV, is said to have addressed him with these
+words in allusion to his energy and strength of character,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span>
+"Tu es fortissimus Samson." His name is
+found upon the beautiful stalls of the Upper Church,
+and it was he who superintended the laying out of the
+upper piazza, connected with the lower one by a long
+flight of stairs. It may also have been at this time
+that the <i>loggie</i> of San
+Francesco were built for
+the purpose of erecting
+booths during the festival
+of the "Pardon of St.
+Francis." Certainly it
+was chiefly at his expense
+that Baccio Pintelli
+(1478) built the handsome
+entrance door and
+porch to the Lower
+Church, which in olden
+times was entered by a
+small door close to the
+campanile. The architect
+fitted his work admirably
+into a corner of the
+building, completing with
+clustered columns of pink
+marble, wheel window,
+trefoiled arches and stone
+traceries, the scheme of
+colour and the perfect
+proportions for which San
+Francesco is so remarkable.
+The doors of carved wood, darkened now
+and of such massive workmanship as to resemble
+bronze, were made in 1546 by Niccolò da Gubbio,
+who has carefully commemorated the legend of St.
+Francis and the wolf of Gubbio in one of the
+panels to the left. Sansone also commissioned the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span>
+doorway of what is now the entrance to the friars'
+convent a year after the porch was finished, then it
+was only a small chapel, built by the members of the
+Third order when St. Bernardine of Siena revived
+the religious enthusiasm of the people. The Assisan
+artist placed a bas-relief of the saint in the arch
+above the door, and it is still called "la porta di
+San Bernardino."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo240" id="illo240"></a>
+<img src="images/illus240.jpg" width="390" height="513" alt="SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE PONTE S. VITTORINO"  />
+<p class="caption">SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE PONTE S. VITTORINO</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>None should leave Assisi, not even those who only
+hurry over for the day, without visiting the convent,
+which recalls an eastern building from the whiteness of
+its great vaulted rooms, long corridors and arcaded courtyards
+when seen against the bluest of summer skies.<a name="FNanchor_93" id="FNanchor_93" href="#Footnote_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a>
+Then from the cool and spacious convent, a place to
+linger in upon a hot day in August, we step out into
+the open colonnade which skirts the building to the
+south, makes a sharp turn west, and then juts out at
+the end, facing south again. This last portion was
+added by Cardinal Albornoz in 1368, and goes by
+the name of the <i>Calcio</i>. But two centuries later the
+foundations were found to be insecure, and Sixtus IV,
+strengthened it by a bastion, which looks solid enough
+to resist even the havoc of an earthquake. The Pope
+was a great benefactor of the convent, and the friars
+placed his statue in a niche in the bastion, where he
+sits, his hand raised in benediction, on a papal throne
+overlooking the valley. From the rounded arches of
+rough stone, turned by storm and sunshine to russet-red,
+pink and yellow, we look out upon one of the
+most beautiful and extensive views in Umbria. To the
+right is Perugia standing out almost aggressively on
+the hill top; opposite, on a separate spur which divides
+the valley of Spoleto from that of the Tiber, Bettona
+and Montefalco hang upon peaks like the nests of birds
+in trees, and beyond are Spoleto, Trevi and Narni,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">222</a></span>
+nearer again Spello, and the domes of Foligno in the
+plain, with a host of small villages near. All the
+Umbrian world lies before us from the convent of San
+Francesco.</p>
+
+<p>Many weary people besides the popes came to rest
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">223</a></span>
+here in early times, and one mediæval warrior, Count
+Guido of Montefeltro, the great leader of the Ghibellines,
+laid down his arms and left his castle at Urbino
+in the year 1296, to pass his last days as a friar doing
+penance within the peaceful shelter of San Francesco
+for a long life of intrigue and bloodshed. He prayed
+by day, for at night they say he stood gazing out of
+his window, one of those we see above the walled
+orchard of the monks, watching the stars and attempting
+to divine the mysteries and destinies he read there,
+exceeding even the superstition of the age by his faith
+in the laws of astrology. But his meditations and
+careful preparation for a holy death were suddenly disturbed,
+and he found himself once more plunged into
+the whirl of Italian politics and intrigue. War raged
+between Pope Boniface VIII, a Gaetani, and the
+powerful family of the Colonna who braved his excommunications,
+and, when their Roman palaces were
+burnt, fled to their strongholds in the country. Many
+of these fell into the hands of the papal troops, but
+Penestrino, their principal fief, resisted all attacks and
+the Pope was nearly defeated when, remembering the
+old soldier Count Guido known to be "more cunning
+than any Italian of his time, masterly alike in war and
+in diplomacy," he hastened to ask his counsel. The
+story is recounted by Dante, who could not forgive the
+Ghibelline chieftain for coming to the assistance of the
+Pope.</p>
+
+<p>Boniface, seeking to silence the scruples of the friar,
+promised to absolve him from all sin, even before committal,
+if only he would tell him how to act so "that
+Penestrino cumber earth no more." Guido, whose
+subtlety had not deserted him in the cloister, gave an
+answer which, while it ensured success to the papal
+arms, stamped him as a man of such deceit and treachery
+that Dante placed him in the eighth gulf of hell, among
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">224</a></span>
+the evil counsellors eternally surrounded by flaming
+tongues of fire.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="o1">"Then, yielding to the forced arguments,</p>
+<p>Of silence as more perilous I deem'd,</p>
+<p>And answer'd: 'Father! since thou washest me</p>
+<p class="ospec">'Clear of that guilt wherein I now must fall,</p>
+<p class="ospec">'Large promise with performance scant, be sure</p>
+<p class="ospec">'Shall make thee triumph in thy lofty seat.'"<a name="FNanchor_94" id="FNanchor_94" href="#Footnote_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Besides Count Guido and the popes who, finding
+the large and airy rooms of the convent a convenient
+summer resort, were constant visitors at Assisi, it
+can show a fine list of royal visitors. Among them
+is the Queen of Sweden who, in 1655, came escorted
+by Papal Nuncios, foreign ambassadors and cavalry,
+to pray at the tomb of St. Francis. The Assisans
+sent out their best carriages with horses ridden by
+postillions to meet her, adorned their palaces with
+flags and damask hangings, and rang all the bells
+as she approached the Basilica. "The Queen is
+called Christina," a chronicler tells us; "she is aged
+twenty-nine, is very learned, being able to write in
+eleven languages; she is small but very comely....
+One hundred and fifty beds were prepared in the
+convent and beautiful it was to see the numerous suite
+and the pages of the nobles."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo243" id="illo243"></a>
+<img src="images/illus243.jpg" width="432" height="650" alt="A FRIAR OF THE MINOR CONVENTUAL ORDER OF ST. FRANCIS
+"  />
+<p class="caption">A FRIAR OF THE MINOR CONVENTUAL ORDER OF ST. FRANCIS
+</p>
+</div>
+<hr />
+
+<p>It strikes the visitor to Assisi as strange that the
+black-robed friars in charge of the Basilica are so
+unlike the franciscans with whom everyone is
+familiar, and it may be well to give a few facts
+relating to the many divisions in the Order which,
+as we have seen, began already to change in the time
+of Elias. In 1517 a portion of the brethren, desiring
+a mitigation of their rule, obtained from Leo X,
+a dispensation and received the title of Friars Minor
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span>
+Conventuals with the permission to choose their own
+Minister General. Their dress is shown in the
+illustration. Those who kept to the rule more nearly
+approaching to that of St. Francis, like those of
+Sta. Maria degli Angeli, the Carceri and San
+Damiano, were called Friars Minor of the Observance,
+or Observants, and take precedence over the
+others, enjoying the privilege of electing the "Minister
+General of the whole order of the Friars Minor
+and successor of St. Francis." In 1528, Matteo
+Baschi, an observant, instituted a new branch called
+the Capucins, because of their long pointed capuce,
+whom he inspired with the desire to lead a hermit's
+life in solitary places, preaching to the people but once
+in the year. They have deserted their hermitages
+and are a very popular order in Italy, devoting themselves
+especially to preaching and hearing confessions,
+and form quite a distinct family from the rest. The
+Basilica at Assisi no longer belongs to the Conventuals,
+as after the union of Italy it was declared to be
+a national monument. The Government also took
+possession of the convent as a school for boys,
+leaving only a small portion for the reduced number of
+friars to inhabit. They went to law, and the judge
+pronounced the convent to be the property of the
+Holy See which had never ceased to exercise jurisdiction
+over it; but a proviso was made that the
+school was to remain in its present quarters until the
+Pope or the franciscans should erect a suitable
+building for it in another part of the town. As
+much money is required for so large an edifice and
+sites are not so easily procured, it seems probable that
+for many years the sound of boys at play will be
+heard in the convent walls instead of the slow footsteps
+of silent friars.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">CHAPTER VIII</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span></p>
+<p class="center b175"><i>Giotto's Legend of St. Francis in the
+Upper Church</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>
+"What, therefore, Giotto gave to art was, before all
+things, vitality."&mdash;<span class="smcap">J. A. Symonds.</span> <i>Renaissance in Italy.</i></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="dropcap">G</span>iotto in the Lower Church had felt his way
+towards the full expression of his genius; succeeding
+so well in the four Allegories that he was chosen
+to illustrate the life of St. Francis, withheld, as we
+have seen, from all former artists, while Cimabue was
+to hear the poet's praise of his pupil, "Ora ha Giotto
+il grido." The task undertaken by the young painter,
+already a master at twenty-five, was almost superhuman,
+and certainly unique in the career of any artist;
+for whereas the pictorial treatment of the New Testament
+had been attempted by many during several
+centuries, Giotto was destined to invent forms for the
+whole franciscan cycle with such perfection that no
+succeeding artist has varied his formula. It remains a
+wonderful achievement, and the noble manner of its
+accomplishment proved him to be, as Mr Roger Fry
+expresses it, "the supreme epic painter of the world."</p>
+
+<p>If St. Francis was fortunate in having his life related
+by so admirable a story-teller, Giotto also owed something
+to the early chroniclers who seeing, perhaps unconsciously,
+the extraordinary poetry and the dramatic
+incidents in the saint's career, had faithfully recorded
+them in simple and beautiful language. So far the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">229</a></span>
+work was ready for Giotto, even the exact scenes were
+chosen for him to illustrate, but the problem how to
+unfold and make them familiar to the faithful by simple
+means, and yet not to lose the dignity and charm of
+the theme, remained for him to solve; and the representation,
+by a few figures, of a whole dramatic incident
+in so vivid a manner could only have succeeded in the
+hands of a great master of the fourteenth century. It
+is nearly certain that Giotto used St. Bonaventure's
+<i>Life of St. Francis</i>, finished in 1263 and founded,
+with but few additions, upon <i>The Three Companions</i>
+and Celano's first and second <i>Life of St.
+Francis</i>. Though written with a certain charm of
+style and though it lacks the ring of those early
+pages, in which St. Francis becomes known to us in
+such a way that we forget he lived seven hundred years
+ago; and although the various incidents of his life are
+presented like so many beautiful pictures, there is the
+feeling always that St. Bonaventure was writing about
+a saint already honoured upon earth and in heaven,
+and not of the man whom all loved as the "Poverello
+d'Assisi." But this legend served Giotto's purpose;
+and a knowledge of the words he followed being necessary
+in order to see where he simply kept to the
+franciscan legend, and where he penetrated the true
+spirit of the saint's life and its dramatic interest, we
+quote from it at some length, although many of the
+main facts have already been treated of in a preceding
+chapter.<a name="FNanchor_95" id="FNanchor_95" href="#Footnote_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a></p>
+
+<p>1. <i>St. Francis honoured by the Simpleton.</i>&mdash;(We begin
+on the right wall by the High Altar, and follow straight
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">230</a></span>
+on to the opposite side, the legend unfolding as in the
+pages of a book.)</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>
+"A certain man of great simplicity dwelt in those days
+in Assisi, who, by virtue of knowledge divinely infused,
+whenever he met Francis in the street, would take off his
+mantle, and spread it upon the ground before him, declaring
+that he did so because he was a man worthy of all honour
+and reverence, who should shortly perform great works and
+marvellous deeds...."<a name="FNanchor_96" id="FNanchor_96" href="#Footnote_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The bare facts are here narrated which Giotto does
+not alter, but he puts such life into the scene that we
+feel he might have been present when the simpleton cast
+himself at Francis' feet and astonished the Assisans by
+his words. Attention is fixed upon the six people in
+the foreground. Two worthy citizens have just arrived
+in time to see the cloak being spread on the ground before
+Francis, and to hear the prophetic words; and as
+they turn to each other, one pointing to the scene, the
+other raising his hand with a movement of surprise, we
+seem to hear their carping criticisms upon the brilliant
+youth who, although he spent his time in singing and
+carousals, was one day to bring renown to their city.
+The young Francis, ever heedless of worldly comment,
+is stepping lightly on to the cloak, with a movement of
+surprise that he should receive such honour. All have
+the Florentine headgear, but the head of St. Francis is
+covered by a small white cap fitting close behind the ears,
+just showing his hair in front, and we feel that Giotto
+would have left him so, but the franciscans, ever to and fro
+in the church to see that the story was painted as they
+liked, insisted upon an aureole being added. As much
+glory for St. Francis they cried, as gold and money
+can give him. So Giotto, who disliked unnecessary
+decorations, was made to put an aureole above the white
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">231</a></span>
+cap, larger than any we have ever seen. But take away
+the halo and we should yet know which of the figures
+is the saint, for he stands a little apart from his two
+noble friends with ermine lined cloaks who talk with
+hands clasped together, and is perhaps already wondering
+about the destiny which awaits him and of which
+he was unaware, "for as yet he understood not the
+great purposes of God towards him."</p>
+
+<p>Besides the human interest of the frescoes it is a
+delightful task to study the architecture in each scene,
+for here, in the Upper Church, Giotto has built a whole
+city of little pink houses with balconies, towers and
+turrets, of exquisite Gothic basilicas, of temples and
+gabled thrones. His priests sit within palaces full of
+lancet windows and pointed arches, the groined roofs,
+as in the Assisan Church, ablaze with myriads of stars.
+What love he had for dainty ornaments, simple, nay
+almost severe in outline, but perfectly finished; and he
+always likes to show the blue sky overhead, or at
+least peeping through one of the windows, making the
+marble seem more lustrous and creamy white. Would
+that all Florence had been built by him.</p>
+
+<p>2. <i>St. Francis giving his cloak to a poor Knight.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"Going forth one day, as was his wont, in apparel suited to
+his state, he met a certain soldier of honour and courage, but
+poor and vilely clad; of whose poverty, feeling a tender and
+sorrowful compassion, he took off his new clothes and gave
+them to the poor man-at-arms."
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>None are there to witness the kind action of the
+young saint who, like another St. Martin, has dismounted
+to give his mantle to the poor man in a ravine
+near a little town enclosed by walls, a church spire
+rising upon the opposite hill. Giotto must have been
+thinking of the small rock-set towns, with stunted
+trees growing outside their walls, in his Tuscan
+home in the Mugello when he painted this, instead
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">232</a></span>
+of the Umbrian town, standing amid vineyards and
+cornfields above an open valley with winding rivers,
+whose church he was decorating. It is the only
+one of the series in which the landscape is an important
+part of the picture, in the others it is a mere
+accessory.</p>
+
+<p>3. <i>The Vision of St. Francis.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"On the following night, when he was asleep, the divine
+mercy showed him a spacious and beautiful palace filled with
+arms and military ensigns, all marked with the Cross of Christ
+to make known to him that his charitable deed done to the
+poor soldier for the love of the great King of heaven should
+receive an unspeakable reward."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>It will be remembered that after this dream St.
+Francis started to join the army of Walter de
+Brienne, having wrongly interpreted the vision, which
+in reality symbolised the army he was eventually to
+lead in the service of the Pope (see p. <a href="#Page_44">44</a>). This
+is, perhaps, the least successful of the frescoes; probably
+the subject did not appeal strongly to the
+painter (he only seems to have enjoyed inventing
+the colonnaded palace with its trefoil windows) and
+also, as Mr Ruskin explains: "Giotto never succeeded,
+to the end of his days, in representing a figure
+lying down, and at ease. It is one of the most
+curious points in all his character. Just the thing
+which he could study from nature without the smallest
+hindrance, is the thing he never can paint; while
+subtleties of form and gesture, which depend absolutely
+on their momentariness, and actions in which
+no model can stay an instant, he seizes with infallible
+accuracy."<a name="FNanchor_97" id="FNanchor_97" href="#Footnote_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a></p>
+
+<p>4. <i>St. Francis praying before the Crucifix in San
+Damiano.</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">235</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"As he lay prostrate before a crucifix he was filled with
+great spiritual consolation, and gazing with tearful eyes upon
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a></span>
+the holy cross of the Lord, he heard with his bodily ears a
+voice from the crucifix, which said thrice to him: 'Francis,
+go and build up My house, which as thou seest, is falling into
+ruin.'"
+</p></div>
+<p>Unfortunately this fresco is much faded and in
+parts peeled off; this, combined with the representation
+of a ruined church, gives a curious effect of
+total destruction, as if an earthquake had passed over
+the land. The figure of the saint, just visible, and
+his attitude of earnest prayer is very charming.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:532px"><a name="illo251" id="illo251"></a>
+<img src="images/illus251.jpg" width="532" height="650" alt="ST. FRANCIS RENOUNCES THE WORLD"  />
+<p class="caption">ST. FRANCIS RENOUNCES THE WORLD</p>
+<p class="caption_lt">(<span class="smcap">D. Anderson</span>&mdash;<i>photo</i>)</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>5. <i>St. Francis renounces the world.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"And now his father, ... brought this son, ... before
+the Bishop of Assisi to compel him to renounce in his hands
+all his inheritance.... As soon, therefore, as he came into
+the Bishop's presence, without a moment's delay, neither
+waiting for his father's demand nor uttering a word himself,
+he laid aside all his clothes, and gave them back to his
+father.... With marvellous fervour he then turned to
+his father, and spoke thus to him in the presence of all:
+'Until this hour I have called thee my father on earth; from
+henceforth, I may say confidently, my Father Who art in
+heaven.'"</p>
+</div>
+<p>This, perhaps the most interesting of Giotto's
+frescoes, can be compared with the one in Sta. Croce
+at Florence on the same subject, painted when time
+and labour had given greater strength to his genius.
+The Assisan scene is treated with more simplicity,
+and, if less perfect as a decorative scheme, possesses
+quite as much dramatic interest and vitality. A little
+block of pink houses on either side reminds us that
+we are outside the Bishop's palace in the Piazza S.
+Maria Maggiore, where the scene is said to have
+occurred. Of course all the Assisans have turned
+out to see how the quarrel between Bernardone and
+his son will end. They stand behind the irate father
+like a Greek chorus, while one, evidently a citizen
+of distinction from his ermine lined cloak and tippet,
+restrains Messer Pietro, who is throwing back his arm
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">236</a></span>
+with the evident intention of striking his son. Francis'
+passion for repairing Assisan churches and ministering
+to the wants of the poor had proved a costly business
+to the thrifty merchant, who loved his money and
+had little sympathy with Assisan beggars (sojourners
+in Assisi may agree with him). Delightful are the
+two tiny children who with one hand clutch up their
+garments, full of stones to throw at St. Francis. The
+bishop is the calmest person there, turning to his
+priests he seems to say: "All is well, there is God
+the Father's hand in the sky (with a little patience
+it can be distinguished in the fresco), and we are sure
+to gain the day, spite of Pietro's angry words."
+And so he quietly folds his episcopal mantle around
+St. Francis, who from this moment becomes indeed
+the Child of heaven. It may seem strange, as Mr
+Ruskin truly observes, that St. Francis, one of whose
+virtues was obedience, should begin life by disobeying
+his father, but Giotto means to show that the young
+saint was casting off all worldly restraint in order
+to obey the Supreme Power, and the scene is a counterpart
+to Dante's lines referring to his marriage with the
+Lady Poverty.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="o1">"A dame, to whom none openeth pleasure's gate</p>
+<p>More than to death, was, 'gainst his father's will,</p>
+<p>His stripling choice: and he did make her his,</p>
+<p>Before the spiritual court, by nuptial bonds,</p>
+<p>And in his father's sight: from day to day,</p>
+<p>Then loved her more devoutly."<a name="FNanchor_98" id="FNanchor_98" href="#Footnote_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a></p>
+</div>
+<p>6. <i>The dream of Innocent III.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p>"He saw in a dream the Lateran Basilica, now falling
+into ruin, supported by the shoulders of a poor, despised,
+and feeble man. 'Truly,' said he, 'this is he who by his
+works and his teaching shall sustain the Church of Christ.'"</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the representations of this vision painted for
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">237</a></span>
+Dominican churches, the Lateran is always supported
+by the two great founders, Francis and Dominic, who,
+in their different ways, helped Innocent in his difficult
+task of reforming the Church. Giotto shows his
+power and the advance art is making under his hand, in
+the figure of St. Francis, who with body slightly bent
+back and one hand on his hip, seems to support the
+great weight, while his feet are so firmly planted that
+there is no uncomfortable feeling of strain and only a
+sense of strength and security. Two men are seated
+by the bedside of the Pope, one is asleep while the other
+keeps watch, and in his slightly wearied attitude and
+the reposeful figure of the sleeper, Giotto's keen observation
+of the ordinary incidents of every day life
+is very apparent.</p>
+
+<p>7. <i>Innocent III, sanctions the Rule of St. Francis.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"He was filled with a great and special devotion and love
+for the servant of God. He granted all his petitions, and
+promised to grant him still greater things. He approved
+the Rule, gave him a mission to preach penance, and granted
+to all the lay brothers in the company of the servant of God
+to wear a tonsure smaller than that worn by priests, and
+freely to preach the Word of God."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>Giotto, in his fresco, has to represent the most
+important event in the life of the saint&mdash;his arrival at
+the papal court when he comes face to face with one
+of the greatest of the Roman Pontiffs; and by the
+simplest possible means the scene is brought before us.
+Here are no crimson-robed cardinals, no gilded papal
+throne; the bishops grouped behind Innocent are hardly
+noticed, or even the brethren who, with hands clasped
+as though in prayer, press closely to their leader like a
+flock of sheep round their shepherd. The eye is so fixed
+upon the two central figures, that all else fades away.
+Giotto has seized the supreme moment when the Pope,
+having overcome his fear lest St. Francis should falter
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">238</a></span>
+in a life of poverty and prove to be only another
+heretical leader of which Italy had already too many,
+is, with kingly gesture, giving the Umbrian penitent
+authority to preach throughout the land. St. Francis,
+holding out his hand to receive his simple Rule, now
+bearing the papal seals, looks up with steady gaze; he
+is the most humble among men kneeling at the feet of
+Rome's sovereign, but strong in love, in faith and
+in knowledge of the righteousness of his mission. M.
+Paul Sabatier has beautifully illustrated the meaning of
+Giotto when he writes: "On pourrait croire que le
+peintre avait trempé ses lèvres dans la coupe du Voyant
+Calabrais [Joachim de Flore] et qu'il a voulu
+symboliser dans l'attitude de ces deux hommes la rencontre
+des représentants de deux âges de l'humanité,
+celui de la Loi et celui de l'Amour."</p>
+
+<p>8. <i>Vision of the Friars at Rivo-Torto.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"Now while the brethren abode in the place aforesaid, the
+holy man went on a certain Saturday into the city of Assisi,
+for he was to preach on the Sunday morning in the Cathedral
+Church. And being thus absent in body from his children, and
+engaged in devout prayer to God (as was his custom throughout
+the night), in a certain hut in the canon's garden, about
+midnight, whilst some of the brethren were asleep and others
+watching in prayer, a chariot of fire, of marvellous splendour,
+was seen to enter the door, and thrice to pass hither and
+thither through the house; ..."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>Giotto's was not a nature to find much enjoyment
+in the portrayal of such events as saints being carried
+aloft in fiery chariots, and in dealing with this miracle
+he dedicated all his power to representing the astonishment
+of the brethren who witness the vision at Rivo-Torto.
+Two talk together and point to St. Francis
+being borne across the heavens by crimson horses, one
+hastens to awaken his companions who are huddled
+together in their hut like tired dogs asleep, and another
+starts from his slumbers to hear the wondrous news.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">239</a></span></p>
+
+<p>9. <i>Vision of Brother Pacifico.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"This friar being in company with the holy man, entered
+with him into a certain deserted church, and there, as he was
+praying fervently he fell into an ecstacy, and amid many
+thrones in heaven he saw one more glorious than all the rest,
+adorned with precious stones of most glorious brightness.
+And marvelling at the surpassing brightness of that throne,
+he began anxiously to consider within himself who should be
+found worthy to fill it. Then he heard a voice saying to
+him: 'This was the throne of one of the fallen angels, and
+now it is reserved for the humble Francis.'"
+</p></div>
+
+<p>With what devotion St. Francis, his hands crossed
+upon his breast, prays upon the steps of the altar,
+while the friar behind is intent on asking questions
+about the marvellous thrones he sees poised above his
+head. Nothing can exceed the grace of the wide-winged
+angel floating down to earth to record the
+humility of Francis, his garments slightly spread by
+his movement through the air.</p>
+
+<p>10. <i>St. Francis chases the Devils away from Arezzo.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"In order to disperse these seditious powers of the air, he
+sent as his herald Brother Sylvester, a man simple as a dove,
+saying to him: 'Go to the gates of the city, and there in the
+Name of Almighty God command the demons by virtue of
+holy obedience, that without delay they depart from that
+place....'"
+</p></div>
+
+<p>The main facts of the legend are followed closely in
+this fresco, but St. Bonaventure does not tell us how
+the miracle was performed, while Giotto, understanding
+the soul of Francis, paints him kneeling outside the
+gates of Arezzo praying with intense fervour for the
+salvation of the city. His faith is so strong that he
+does not even look up like Brother Sylvester, to see
+the demons flee away; some springing from off the
+chimneys, others circling above the towers, their bat-like
+wings outspread. The figure of Brother Sylvester
+is very fine, and the way he is lifting his tunic and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">240</a></span>
+stepping forward, as he stretches out one arm with a
+gesture of command towards the demons, could not be
+rendered with more ease and truth.</p>
+
+<p>11. <i>St. Francis and Brother Illuminatus before the
+Sultan of Egypt.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"When they had gone a little further, they met with a
+band of Saracens, who, quickly falling upon them, like wolves
+upon a flock of sheep, cruelly seized and bound the servants
+of God ... having in many ways afflicted and oppressed
+them, they were ... according to the holy man's desire,
+brought into the presence of the Sultan. And being
+questioned by that prince whence and for what purpose they
+had come ... the servant of Christ, being enlightened
+from on high, answered him thus: 'If thou and thy people
+will be converted to Christ I will willingly abide with thee.
+But if thou art doubtful whether or not to forsake the law
+of Mohamed for the faith of Christ, command a great fire to
+be lighted, and I will go into it with thy priests, that it may
+be known which faith should be held to be the most certain
+and the most holy.' To whom the Sultan made answer: 'I
+do not believe that any of my priests would be willing to
+expose himself to the fire or to endure any manner of torment
+in defence of his faith.' Then said the holy man: 'If thou
+wilt promise me for thyself and thy people that thou wilt
+embrace the worship of Christ if I come forth unharmed, I
+will enter the fire alone.' ... But the Sultan answered that
+he dared not accept this challenge, because he feared a sedition
+of the people."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>This subject, from its dramatic interest, appealed to
+Giotto, giving full scope to his powers, both as a story-teller,
+and as a painter with such genius for portraying
+dignity and nobility of character. The principal
+persons, the Sultan and St. Francis, are here clearly
+placed before us as Giotto wished us to conceive them,
+and how correctly he realised their characters we learn
+from the chronicles of the time. "We saw," writes
+Jacques de Vitry in one of his letters, "Brother Francis
+arrive, who is the founder of the Minorite Order; he
+was a simple man, without letters, but very lovable
+and dear to God as well as to men. He came while
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">241</a></span>
+the army of the Crusaders was under Damietta, and
+was much respected by all." This is indeed the man
+depicted by Giotto in the slight figure of the preacher
+standing at the foot of the marble throne, so humble,
+yet full of that secret power which won even the
+Sultan's admiration. But though the story centres in
+St. Francis, the person Giotto wishes all to notice is
+the Sultan, who, far from being an ignorant heathen
+to be converted, conveys the idea of a most noble
+and kingly person, Malek Camel in short, known
+throughout the East as the "Perfect Prince." His
+mollahs had wished to kill St. Francis and his companion,
+and the fine answer he made was worthy of his
+high character. "Seigneurs," he said, addressing his
+visitors, "they have commanded me by Mahomet and
+by the law to have your heads cut off. For thus the
+law commands; but I will go against the order, or else
+I should render you bad guerdon for having risked
+death to save my soul."</p>
+
+<p>Giotto has chosen the most dramatic moment when
+St. Francis offers to go through the ordeal by fire with
+the mahommedan priests, to prove the power of the
+Christian God. With one look back upon the fire
+the mollahs gather their robes around them and hurriedly
+leave the Sultan's presence; St. Francis points towards
+the flames as though he were assuring the Sultan that
+they will not hurt him, while the friar behind gazes
+contemptuously after the retreating figures of the
+mollahs.</p>
+
+<p>Dante and Milton in their different ways were able
+to give us a vivid idea of fire, flame and heat, and so
+would Giotto have done had he expressed his ideas
+by words instead of in painting; but he was wise enough
+not to attempt it in his fresco, and so in lieu of a blaze
+of crimson flames we have only what looks like a
+stunted red cypress, realistic enough to make us understand
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">242</a></span>
+the story without drawing our attention away
+from the main interest of the scene. In this fresco we
+are again reminded of the simple methods, grand and
+impressive by their very straightforwardness, by which
+he brings before us so strange a scene and accentuates
+the importance of an event in his own individual way.</p>
+
+<p>12. <i>Ecstasy of St. Francis.</i></p>
+
+<p>This legend is not recounted by St. Bonaventure,
+Celano, or in <i>The Three Companions</i>, but there is a
+tradition of how St. Francis one day in divine communion
+with God, was wrapt in ecstasy and his
+companions saw him raised from the ground in a cloud.
+All that is human in the scene Giotto has done as
+well as possible, but he evidently found it hard to
+realise how St. Francis would have looked rising up
+in a cloud, so he has devoted himself to rendering
+truthfully the astonishment of the disciples who witness
+the miracle.</p>
+
+<p>13. <i>The Institution of the Feast at Greccio.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"... in order to excite the inhabitants of Greccio to
+commemorate the nativity of the Infant Jesus with great devotion,
+he determined to keep it with all possible solemnity;
+and lest he should be accused of lightness or novelty, he
+asked and obtained the permission of the sovereign Pontiff.
+Then he prepared a manger, and brought hay, an ox and
+an ass to the place appointed. The brethren were summoned,
+the people ran together, the forest resounded with their
+voices, and that venerable night was made glorious by many
+brilliant lights and sonorous psalms of praise. The man of
+God stood before the manger, full of devotion and piety,
+bathed in tears and radiant with joy; many masses were
+said before it, and the Holy Gospel was chanted by Francis,
+the Levite of Christ....  A certain valiant and veracious
+soldier, Master John of Greccio, who, for the love of Christ,
+had left the warfare of this world, and become a dear friend of
+the holy man, affirmed that he beheld an Infant marvellously
+beautiful sleeping in that manger, whom the blessed Father
+Francis embraced with both his arms, as if he would awake
+him from sleep."</p>
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">243</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Besides the wonderful way in which Giotto has
+succeeded, to use the words of Mr Roger Fry, "in
+making visible, as it were, the sudden thrill which
+penetrates an assembly at a moment of supreme significance,"
+there is the further interest of knowing
+that the scene of the Nativity arranged by St. Francis
+at Greccio, was the first of the mystery plays represented
+in Italy which were the beginning of the Italian
+drama. Giotto makes not only Master John of Greccio
+see the miracle of the Holy Child lying in the saint's
+arms and smiling up into his face, but also those who
+accompany him and some of the friars, while the other
+brethren, singing with mouths wide open like young
+birds awaiting their food, are much too occupied to
+notice what passes around them. A group of women,
+their heads swathed in white veils, are entering at the
+door, and the whole scene is one of animation and festivity.
+The marble canopy, with tall marble columns
+and gabled towers, over the altar is one of Giotto's
+most exquisite and graceful designs. But Giotto the
+shepherd has not succeeded so happily in depicting an
+ox which lies at the saint's feet like a purring cat.</p>
+
+<p>14. <i>The Miracle of the Water.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"Another time, when the man of God wished to go to
+a certain desert place, that he might give himself the more
+freely to contemplation, being very weak, he rode upon an ass
+belonging to a poor man. It being a hot summer's day, the
+poor man, as he followed the servant of Christ, became weary
+with the long way and the steep ascent, and beginning to
+faint with fatigue and burning thirst, he called after the
+saint: 'Behold,' he said, 'I shall die of thirst unless I can
+find a little water at once to refresh me.' Then without
+delay the man of God got off the ass, and kneeling down
+with his hands stretched out to heaven, he ceased not to pray
+till he knew he was heard."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>Giotto has here rendered the aridity of the summit
+of La Vernia, its pinnacles of rocks with stunted trees.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">244</a></span>
+Two friars, by now quite accustomed to miracles,
+converse together as they lead the donkey from which
+St. Francis has dismounted to pray that the thirsty
+man's wishes may be gratified. The grouping of the
+figures repeat the pointed lines of the landscape, and
+the whole is harmonious and of great charm of composition.
+It was justly admired by Vasari, who thought
+the peasant drinking was worthy of "perpetual praise."
+Florentine writers were continually harping on what
+they considered to be Giotto's claim to immortality,
+his genius for portraying nature so that his copy seemed
+as real as life, an opinion shared by Vasari when he gives
+his reason for admiring this particular fresco. "The
+eager desire," he says, "with which the man bends down
+to the water is portrayed with such marvellous effect, that
+one could almost believe him to be a living man actually
+drinking."</p>
+
+<p>Over the door is a medallion of the Madonna and
+Child which once was by Giotto, but now, alas, the
+eyes of faith must see his handiwork through several
+layers of paint with which restorers have been allowed
+to cover it. A slightly sardonic smile has been
+added to the Madonna, and to appreciate what is left
+of her charm it is necessary to look at her from the
+other end of the church, where the beauty of line and
+composition can still be discerned notwithstanding the
+barbarous treatment she has undergone.</p>
+
+<p>15. <i>St. Francis Preaching to the Birds at Bevagna.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"When he drew near to Bevagna, he came to a place
+where a great multitude of birds of different kinds were
+assembled together, which, when they saw the holy man,
+came swiftly to the place, and saluted him as if they had the
+use of reason. They all turned towards him and welcomed
+him; those which were on the trees bowed their heads in an
+unaccustomed manner, and all looked earnestly at him, until
+he went to them and seriously admonished them to listen to
+the Word of the Lord.... While he spoke these and other
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">245</a></span>
+such words to them, the birds rejoiced in a marvellous
+manner, swelling their throats, spreading their wings,
+opening their beaks, and looking at him with great
+attention."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>This theme has been treated by another artist in the
+Lower Church, with little success as we have seen; it
+is also sometimes introduced in the predellas of big
+pictures of the school of Cimabue; but it remained for
+Giotto to give us a picture as beautiful in colour as
+those left by the early chroniclers in words. He never
+painted it again on a large scale, and the small representation
+in the predella of the picture in the Louvre
+follows the Assisan fresco in every detail. Two friars
+whose brown habits are tinted with mauve, one tree, a
+blue, uncertain landscape and some dozen birds, are all
+he thought necessary to explain the story, and yet
+the whole poetry of St. Francis' life is here, the
+keynote of his character, which has made him the
+most beloved among saints, and the man who though
+poor, unlettered and often reviled, was to herald the
+coming of a new age in religion, art and literature.
+With what love he bends towards his little feathered
+brethren as he beckons them to him, and they gather
+fearlessly round him while he points to the skies and
+tells them in simple words their duties towards their
+Creator.</p>
+
+<p>Another Florentine, Benozzo Gozzoli, painted
+this subject; there across the Assisan valley at
+Montefalco we can see it. His birds are certainly
+better drawn, there are more of them too, and we
+can even amuse ourselves by distinguishing among them
+golden orioles, blackbirds, doves and wood pigeons,
+but no one would hesitate to say that real charm
+and poetry are missing. Giotto's fresco, painted 600
+years ago, is somewhat faded and many of the birds
+are partly effaced, but we do not feel it matters
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">246</a></span>
+much what they are&mdash;we only love the fact that St.
+Francis called the Umbrian birds around him and
+preached them a sermon with the same care as if
+he had been in the presence of a pope, and that
+Giotto believed the legend and took pains with his
+work, intending that we also should believe and understand
+something of the sweetness of this Umbrian
+scene.</p>
+
+<p>16. <i>Death of the Knight of Celano.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"When the holy man came into the soldier's house all
+the family rejoiced greatly to receive this poor one of the
+Lord. And before he began to eat, according to his custom,
+the holy man offered his usual prayers and praises to God,
+with his eyes raised to heaven. When he had finished his
+prayer, he familiarly called his kind host aside, and said to
+him: 'Behold, my host and brother, in compliance with thy
+prayers I have come to eat in thy house. But now attend
+to that which I say to thee, for thou shalt eat no more here,
+but elsewhere. Therefore, confess thy sins with truly penitent
+contrition; let nothing remain in thee unrevealed by
+true confession, for the Lord will requite thee to-day for the
+kindness with which thou hast received His poor servant.'
+The good man believed these holy words, and disclosing all
+his sins in confession to the companion of St. Francis, he
+set all his house in order, making himself ready for death,
+and preparing himself for it to the best of his power. They
+then sat down to table, and the others began to eat, but
+the spirit of the host immediately departed, according to
+the words of the man of God, which foretold his sudden
+death."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>This is one of the most characteristic of Giotto's
+works, showing his power, unique at that time, of
+touching upon human sorrow with simplicity, truth
+and restraint. Here is no exaggerated gesture of
+grief, no feigned expression of surprise or false note
+to make us doubt the truth of the tragedy that has
+befallen the house of Celano. But the movement
+of the crowd of sorrowing people, the men gazing
+down on the dead knight, the women weeping, their
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">249</a></span>
+fair hair falling about their shoulders, tell better than
+any restless movement the awful grief which fills
+their hearts. It has happened so suddenly that the
+friar still sits at table with his fork in his hand,
+while St. Francis hast just risen to go to the people's
+assistance, while a man in the Florentine dress turns
+to him seeming, from the gesture of his hand, to
+say: "See, your prophecy has been fulfilled but too
+soon."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width:474px"><a name="illo265" id="illo265"></a>
+<img src="images/illus265.jpg" width="474" height="650" alt="DEATH OF THE KNIGHT OF CELANO"  />
+<p class="caption">DEATH OF THE KNIGHT OF CELANO</p>
+<p class="caption_lt">(<span class="smcap">D. Anderson</span>&mdash;<i>photo</i>)</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>17. <i>St. Francis preaches before Honorius III.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"Having to preach on a certain day before the Pope and
+the cardinals, at the suggestion of the Cardinal of Ostia he
+learned a sermon by heart, which he had carefully prepared;
+when he was about to speak it for their edification he wholly
+forgot everything he had to say, so that he could not utter a
+word. He related with true humility what had befallen him,
+and then, having invoked the aid of the Holy Spirit, he began
+at once to move the hearts of these great men...."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>In this fine fresco Giotto has represented St. Francis
+holding his audience as though spell-bound by the power
+of his eloquence, and the contrast is great between the
+charming figure of the saint and that of the stern and
+earnest Pope, who, deep in thought, is leaning his chin
+on his hand, perhaps wondering at the strange chance
+which has brought the slight brown figure, so dusty and
+so poorly clad, so ethereal and so eloquent, into the
+midst of the papal court. It is delightful to study the
+faces and gestures of the listeners; some are all enthusiasm
+and interest, like the charming young cardinal in an
+orange-tinted robe, whose thoughts seem to be far away
+following where St. Francis' burning words are leading
+them; but the older man gazes critically at the saint,
+perhaps saying within himself: "What is this I hear,
+we must give up all, our fat benefices, our comfortable
+Roman palaces, to follow Christ"; and the cardinal on
+the right of the Pope also seems surprised at the new
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">250</a></span>
+doctrines of love, poverty and sacrifice. Four others
+lean their heads on their hands; but how varied are the
+gestures, from the Pope, all eagerness and keen attention,
+to the cardinal bowing his head sadly thinking,
+like the man of great possessions, how pleasant it would
+be to become perfect, but how impossible it is to leave
+the goods of this world. St. Francis' companion is
+seated at his master's feet as though affirming, "I follow
+his teaching, and all he says is right."</p>
+
+<p>18. <i>The Apparition of St. Francis.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"For when the illustrious preacher and glorious Confessor,
+Anthony, who is now with Christ, was preaching to the
+brethren in the chapel at Arles on the title upon the Cross&mdash;'Jesus
+of Nazareth, the King of the Jews'&mdash;a certain friar
+of approved virtue named Monaldus, casting his eyes by divine
+inspiration upon the door of the chapter-house, beheld, with
+his bodily eyes, the blessed Francis raised in the air, blessing
+the brethren, with his arms outstretched in the form of a
+Cross."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>The friars sit in various attitudes of somewhat
+fatigued attention before St. Anthony who is standing,
+and none seem as yet to be aware of the apparition
+of St. Francis, who appears at the open door
+under a Gothic archway, the blue sky behind him.
+There is a strange feeling of peace about the scene.</p>
+
+<p>19. <i>The Stigmata.</i></p>
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="i4">"... On the hard rock,</p>
+<p>'Twixt Arno and the Tiber, he from Christ</p>
+<p>Took the last signet, which his limbs two years</p>
+<p>Did carry...."<a name="FNanchor_99" id="FNanchor_99" href="#Footnote_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a></p>
+</div>
+<p>This fresco is unhappily much ruined; enough however
+remains to trace a close resemblance to Giotto's
+predella of the same subject now in the Louvre, but
+where the solemnity of the scene is increased by the
+saint being alone with the Seraph upon La Vernia.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">251</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It may be well here to give some of the various
+opinions as to the authorship of these frescoes, though in
+this small book it is impossible to go at all deeply into
+the subject. Some, following Baron von Rumohr, hold
+that the only paintings in the Upper Church by Giotto,
+are the two by the door, the <i>Miracle of the Water</i> and
+the <i>Sermon to the Birds</i>, while Messrs. Crowe and
+Cavalcaselle give also the first of the series and the last
+five to him, but while "youthful and feeling his way,"
+and all the rest to Gaddo Gaddi, or maybe Filippo
+Rusutti. Lastly, Mr Bernhard Berenson is of opinion
+that Giotto's style is to be clearly traced from the first
+fresco, <i>St. Francis honoured by the Simpleton</i>, to the
+nineteenth, <i>The Stigmata</i>; and they show so much
+affinity to the work of the great Florentine in Sta.
+Croce and elsewhere, that it is impossible not to agree
+with him. In the remaining frescoes, representing the
+death and miracles of St. Francis, he sees a close
+resemblance to the work of the artist who painted in
+the chapel of St. Nicholas (Lower Church), and
+who may have aided Giotto in the Upper Church
+before being chosen to continue his master's work.</p>
+
+<p>20. <i>Death of St. Francis.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"The hour of his departure being at hand, he commanded all
+the brethren who were in that place to be called to him, and
+comforted them with consoling words concerning his death,
+exhorting them with fatherly affection to the divine love....
+When he had finished these loving admonitions, this man,
+most dear to God, commanded that the Book of the Gospels
+should be brought to him, and ... his most holy soul being
+set free and absorbed in the abyss of the divine glory, the
+blessed man slept in the Lord."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>This fresco has suffered from the damp and all that
+clearly remains are the angels, in whom the artist's
+feeling for graceful movement is shown, their flight
+down towards the dead recalling the rush of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">252</a></span>
+swallows' wings as they circle in the evening above the
+towers of San Francesco.</p>
+
+<p>21. <i>The Apparitions of St. Francis.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"... Brother Augustine, a holy and just man, was
+minister of the Friars at Lavoro: he being at the point of
+death, and having for a long time lost the use of speech,
+exclaimed suddenly, in the hearing of all who stood around:
+'Wait for me, Father, wait for me; I am coming with
+thee....'</p>
+
+<p>"At the same time the Bishop of Assisi was making a
+devout pilgrimage to the church of St. Michael, on Mount
+Gargano. To him the Blessed Francis appeared on the very
+night of his departure, saying: 'Behold I leave the world and
+go to Heaven.'"
+</p></div>
+
+<p>In one fresco the artist has represented two different
+scenes, the greater prominence being given to the dying
+friar surrounded by many brethren. In neither is
+shown the figure of St. Francis, as the artist probably
+thought that it would have been difficult to introduce
+the apparition twice. But while the gesture of the
+friar stretching out his arms and the arrangement of
+the others explain the story, it would be difficult, without
+St. Bonaventure's legend, to know the feelings of
+the bishop who is so calmly sleeping in the background.</p>
+
+<p>22. <i>The Incredulous Knight of Assisi.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"... when the holy man had departed from this life,
+and his sacred spirit had entered its eternal house ... many
+of the citizens of Assisi were admitted to see and kiss the
+Sacred Stigmata. Among these was a certain soldier, a
+learned and prudent man, named Jerome, held in high estimation
+in the city, who, doubting the miracle of the Sacred
+Stigmata, and being incredulous like another Thomas, more
+boldly and eagerly than the rest moved the nails in the
+presence of his fellow-citizens, and touched with his own
+hands the hands and feet of the holy man; and while
+he thus touched these palpable signs of the wounds of
+Christ, his heart was healed and freed from every wound of
+doubt."</p>
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">253</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This fresco is so much ruined that it is difficult to
+enjoy it as a whole, but some of the figures of the
+young acolytes bearing lighted torches, and the priests
+reading the service and sprinkling the body with holy
+water, are very life-like.</p>
+
+<p>23. <i>The Mourning of the Nuns of San Damiano.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"Passing by the church of St. Damian, where that noble
+virgin, Clare, now glorious in heaven, abode with the virgins
+her sisters, the holy body, adorned with celestial jewels [the
+marks of the Stigmata], remained there awhile, till those
+holy virgins could see and kiss them."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>This, the loveliest of the last nine frescoes, recalls
+the one in St. Nicholas' Chapel of the three prisoners
+imploring the saint's protection; even to the basilica
+which forms the background of both. Considering
+that it is the last farewell of St. Clare and her companions
+to St. Francis the artist might have given a
+more tragic touch to the scene, but all is made subservient
+to the rendering of graceful figures, like the
+charming nuns who talk together as they hasten out of
+San Damiano, whose humble façade of stone the artist
+has transformed into a building of marble and mosaic
+almost rivalling the glories of such cathedrals as Siena
+and Orvieto. St. Clare stoops to kiss the saint while
+priests and citizens wait to resume their hymns of praise,
+and a small child climbs up a tree and tears down
+branches to strew upon the road in front of the bier.<a name="FNanchor_100" id="FNanchor_100" href="#Footnote_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a></p>
+
+<p>24. <i>The Canonisation of St. Francis.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"The Sovereign Pontiff, Gregory IX, ... determined
+with pious counsel and holy consideration to pay to the holy
+man that veneration and honour of which he knew him to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">254</a></span>
+be most worthy ... and coming himself in person to the
+city of Assisi in the year of our Lord's Incarnation, 1228, on
+Sunday the 6th of July, with many ceremonies and great
+solemnity, he inscribed the Blessed Father in the catalogue
+of the saints."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>This fresco is so ruined that it is impossible to form
+any idea of its composition; about the only object
+clearly to be seen is the sepulchral urn of St. Francis,
+represented beneath an iron grating in the church of
+San Giorgio.</p>
+
+<p>25. <i>The Dream of Gregory IX, at Perugia.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"On a certain night, then, as the Pontiff was afterwards
+wont to relate with many tears, the Blessed Francis appeared
+to him in a dream, and with unwonted severity in his countenance,
+reproving him for the doubt which lurked in his
+heart, raised his right arm, discovered the wound, and commanded
+that a vessel should be brought to receive the blood
+which issued from his side. The Supreme Pontiff still in
+vision, brought him the vessel, which seemed to be filled
+even to the brim with the blood which flowed from his
+side."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>We are here left with an impression that the artist was
+hampered by not having enough figures for his composition,
+and the four men seated on the ground and
+guarding the Pope, compare unfavourably with Giotto's
+fresco of the three grand watchers by Innocent III,
+upon the opposite wall.</p>
+
+<p>16. <i>St. Francis cures the Wounded Man.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"It happened in the city of Ilerda, in Catalonia, that a
+good man, named John, who was very devout to St. Francis,
+had to pass through a street, in which certain men were
+lying in wait to kill him and ... wounded him with so
+many dagger-strokes as to leave him without hope of life....
+The poor man's cure was considered impossible by all
+the physicians.... And, behold, as the sufferer lay alone
+on his bed, frequently calling on the name of Francis ...
+one stood by him in the habit of a Friar Minor, who, as it
+seemed to him, came in by a window, and calling him by
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">255</a></span>
+his name, said, 'Because thou hast trusted in me, behold, the
+Lord will deliver thee.'"
+</p></div>
+
+<p>The artist having here an incident less difficult to
+deal with than visions and dreams, betrays a certain
+humour in the stout figure of the doctor, who, as he
+leaves the room, turns to the two women as though
+saying, "He has begun to pray, as if that can help him
+when I have failed to cure him." Meantime St.
+Francis, escorted by two tall and graceful angels with
+great wings, is laying his hands upon the wounded
+man. Here, as in most of these latter frescoes, a single
+scene is divided into more than one episode; this seems
+to us to be the great difference between them and the
+works of Giotto, where the eye is immediately attracted
+towards the principal figure or figures, the others only
+serving to complete the composition.</p>
+
+<p>27. <i>The last Confession of the Woman of Benevento.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"... a certain woman who had a special devotion to St.
+Francis, went the way of all flesh. Now, all the clergy being
+assembled round the corpse to keep the accustomed vigils,
+and say the usual psalms and prayers, suddenly that woman
+rose on her feet, in presence of them all, on the bier where she
+lay, and calling to her one of the priests ... 'Father,' she
+said, 'I wish to confess. As soon as I was dead, I was sent to
+a dreadful dungeon, because I had never confessed a certain sin
+which I will now make known to you. But St. Francis, whom
+I have ever devoutly served, having prayed for me, I have
+been suffered to return to the body, that having revealed that
+sin, I may be made worthy of eternal life.' ... She made
+her confession, therefore, trembling to the priest, and having
+received absolution, quietly lay down on the bier, and slept
+peacefully in the Lord."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>The legend is dramatic and the artist has not failed
+to make us feel the great sadness and solemnity of the
+scene. A moment more, and the group of people to
+the left will come forward to carry the woman away
+for burial while the relations weep most bitterly; they
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">256</a></span>
+stand aside with heads bowed in grief, for already the
+presence of death is felt. Only the sorrow of the
+child, who stretches out his arms, has passed away
+upon seeing her rise to speak with the priest. Very
+tall and slender are the figures of the women, bending
+and swaying together like flowers in a gentle
+breeze.</p>
+
+<p>28. <i>St. Francis releases Peter of Alesia from Prison.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"When Pope Gregory IX, was sitting in the chair of St.
+Peter, a certain man named Peter, of the city of Alesia, on an
+accusation of heresy, was carried to Rome, and, by command
+of the same Pontiff, was given in custody to the Bishop of
+Tivoli. He, having been charged to keep him in safety ...
+bound him with heavy chains and imprisoned him in a dark
+dungeon.... This man began to call with many prayers
+and tears upon St. Francis ... beseeching him to have mercy
+upon him.... About twilight on the vigil of his feast, St.
+Francis mercifully appeared to him in prison, and, calling
+him by his name, commanded him immediately to arise....
+Then, by the power of the presence of the holy man, he beheld
+the fetters fall broken from his feet, and the doors of
+the prison were unlocked without anyone to open them, so
+that he could go forth unbound and free."
+</p></div>
+
+<p>Everything here gives the impression of height; the
+tall slim figures, the high doorway, and the slender
+tower and arches. St. Francis is seen flying up to
+the skies with the same swift motion the artist has
+given to the figure of St. Nicholas in the Lower
+Church, and the "Greek Chorus" to the left serves
+to show surprise at the unusual occurrence of a prisoner
+suddenly emerging from his prison with broken fetters
+in his hands.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>None should leave the church without looking at
+the stalls in the choir; they are by Domenico da San
+Severino, made in 1501, by order, as an inscription
+tells us, of Francesco Sansone, General of the franciscan
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">257</a></span>
+order, and friend of Sixtus IV. The artist
+only took ten years to execute this really wonderful
+work; the intarsia figures of the stalls in pale yellow
+wood, most of them fancy portraits of the companions
+of St. Francis, are remarkable for their form and character.
+They betray, in the opinion of Mr Berenson,
+Venetian influences of Crivelli and of the school of
+the Vivarini.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo275" id="illo275"></a>
+<img src="images/illus275.jpg" width="300" height="267" alt="ARMS OF THE FRANCISCANS FROM THE INTARSIA OF THE STALLS"  />
+<p class="caption">ARMS OF THE FRANCISCANS FROM THE INTARSIA OF THE STALLS</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">CHAPTER IX</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">258</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center b175"><i>St. Clare at San Damiano. The
+Church of Santa Chiara.</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+"Comme les fleurs, les âmes ont leur parfum qui ne trompe
+jamais."&mdash;<span class="smcap">P. Sabatier</span>. <i>Vie de S. François d'Assise</i>.
+</p></div>
+
+<p><span class="dropcap">T</span>he days of St. Clare from the age of eighteen
+until her death in 1253 were passed within the
+convent walls of San Damiano, and though peaceful
+enough, for a mediæval lady, they were full of events
+and varied interest.</p>
+
+<p>She was born on the 10th of July 1194 in Assisi
+of noble parents, her father being Count Favorino Scifi
+(spelt also Scefi) the descendant of an ancient Roman
+family who owned a large palace in the town, and
+a castle on the slope of Mount Subasio to the east
+of the ravine where the Carceri lie among the ilex
+woods. The castle gave the title of Count of Sasso
+Rosso to its owners, and was the cause of much skirmishing
+between the Scifi and the Ghislerio who were
+continually wresting it from each other, until in 1300,
+during one of these struggles, the walls were razed to the
+ground and no one sought afterwards to repair its ruins.
+Of Sasso Rosso a few stones still remain, which, as
+they catch the morning light, are seen from Assisi like
+a grey crag projecting from the mountain, high above
+the road to Spello. When not fighting beneath the
+walls of his castle Count Favorino was generally away
+on some skirmishing expedition, and during his absences,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">259</a></span>
+his wife, the Lady Ortolana of the noble family of the
+Fiumi, would depart upon a pilgrimage to the south of
+Italy or even to the Holy Land.<a name="FNanchor_101" id="FNanchor_101" href="#Footnote_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a> An old writer remarks
+that her name "Ortolana (market gardener) was
+very appropriate, because from her, as from a well-tended
+orchard, sprang most noble plants." After her
+return from Palestine she one night heard a voice
+speaking these prophetic words to which she listened
+with great awe. "Be not afraid Ortolana, for from
+thee shall arise a light so bright and clear that the
+darkness of the earth shall be illuminated thereby."
+So the daughter who was born soon after was called
+Chiara in memory of the divine message. With so
+pious a mother it is not surprising that Clare should have
+grown up thoughtful and fond of praying; we even
+hear of her seeking solitary corners in the palace where
+she would be found saying her rosary, using pebbles
+like the hermits of old instead of beads upon a chain.
+But her evident inclination for a religious life in no
+way alarmed Count Favorino, who had made up his
+mind that she should marry a wealthy young Assisan
+noble, for even at an early age she showed great promise
+of beauty. "Her face was oval," says a chronicler,
+"her forehead spacious, her complexion brilliant,
+and her eyebrows and hair very fair. A celestial smile
+played in her eyes and around her mouth; her nose was
+well-proportioned and slightly aquiline; of good stature
+she was rather inclined to stoutness, but not to excess."
+A little while and her fate in life would have been
+sealed in the ordinary way, and she would have continued
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">260</a></span>
+to look out upon the world through the barred
+windows of some old Assisan palace; but great changes
+were being wrought in the town even when Clare had
+just passed into girlhood. With the rest of her fellow-citizens,
+rich and poor, she was destined to feel the
+potent influence of one who suddenly appeared in
+their midst like an inspired prophet of old, calling
+on all to repent, and picturing higher ideals in
+life than any had hitherto dreamed of. Although
+her first meeting with St. Francis has not been recorded
+by any early biographer, we may be sure that
+from the age of fourteen, and perhaps even before, the
+story of his doings had been familiar to her, for the
+stir his conversion made among the people, his quarrels
+with his father, and the many followers he gained,
+even among the nobles, were of too extraordinary a
+nature to pass without comment in the family of the
+Scifi.<a name="FNanchor_102" id="FNanchor_102" href="#Footnote_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a> Their palace being near the Porta Nuova it is
+certain that Clare and her younger sister Agnes must
+have often seen St. Francis pass on his way to San
+Damiano, carrying the bricks which he had begged
+from door to door to repair its crumbling walls, and
+heard him scoffed at by the children and cursed by his
+angry father. As his fame as a preacher grew the
+Scifi family hurried with the rest to listen to his
+sermons in the cathedral, or perhaps even in the
+market-place, where he would stand upon the steps of
+the old temple and gather the peasants around him on
+a market day. But the decisive time arrived in the
+year 1212, when St. Francis, by then the acknowledged
+founder of a new order sanctioned by the Pope,
+and no longer jeered at as a mad enthusiast, came to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">261</a></span>
+preach during Lent in the church of San Giorgio. It
+was the parish church of the Scifi, and the whole
+family attended every service. Clare was then
+eighteen, young enough to be carried away by the
+words of the franciscan and build for herself a life
+outside her present existence; old enough to have felt
+unbearable the trammels of a degraded age, and to
+long, during those years of warfare to which all the
+cities of the valley were subjected, for an escape to
+where peace and purity could be found. Only dimly
+she saw her way to a perfect love of Christ. The
+preacher's words were addressed to all, but she felt
+them as an especial call to herself, and unhesitatingly
+she resolved to seek out the friar at the Portiuncula
+and ask his help and counsel in what was no easy task.
+Instinctively knowing her mother could be of no aid,
+even if she sympathised in her cravings for a more
+spiritual life, she gained the confidence of her aunt,
+Bianca Guelfucci, who all through played her part
+regardless of Count Favorino's possible revenge.</p>
+
+<p>Even during the first two years of his mission St.
+Francis was accustomed to receive many men who
+wished to leave home and comforts, and tramp along
+the country roads with him, but when the young
+Chiara Scifi threw herself at his feet imploring him to
+help her to enter upon a new way of life, his heart was
+troubled, and, reflecting on what wide results his preaching
+was taking, fear even may have formed part of his
+surprise. Bernard of Quintavalle he had bidden
+sell all that he had, distribute it to the poor, and join
+him at the leper houses; but before allowing Clare to
+take the veil he sought to prove her vocation beyond
+a doubt, and bade her go from door to door through the
+town begging her bread, clad in rough sack-cloth with
+a hood drawn about her face. Her piety only increased
+until St. Francis, believing that he was called upon to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">262</a></span>
+help her, resolved to act the part of the spiritual knight
+errant.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="illo280" id="illo280"></a>
+<img src="images/illus280.jpg" width="266" height="408" alt="DOOR THROUGH WHICH ST. CLARE
+LEFT THE PALAZZO SCIFI"  />
+<p class="caption">DOOR THROUGH WHICH ST. CLARE<br />
+LEFT THE PALAZZO SCIFI</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>On Palm Sunday, arrayed in their richest clothes,
+the members of the Scifi and the Fiumi families
+attended high mass in the cathedral, and with the rest
+of the citizens went up to receive the branches of
+palms. But to the astonishment
+of all Clare remained
+kneeling as if wrapt in a
+dream, and in vain the bishop
+waited for her to follow
+the procession to the altar.
+All eyes were upon her as
+the bishop, with paternal
+tenderness, came down from
+the altar steps to where the
+young girl knelt and placed
+the palm in her hand. That
+night Clare left her father's
+house for ever. A small
+door in the Scifi palace is
+still shown through which
+she is said to have escaped.
+It had been walled up for
+some time, but the fragile
+girl gifted that night with
+superhuman strength and
+courage, tore down timber
+and stones and joined Bianca Guelfucci, who was
+waiting with some trembling maidservants where
+the arch spans the street, to accompany her to the
+Portiuncula (see p. <a href="#Page_104">104</a>). Great was the consternation
+in the family when next morning her flight was
+discovered, and news came that she had found shelter
+in the benedictine convent near Bastia. Count
+Favorino and his wife lost no time in following her,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">263</a></span>
+fully persuaded that by threats or entreaties they would
+be able to induce her to return home and marry the
+man of her father's choice; but they knew little of
+the strength of character which lay hidden beneath the
+gentle nature of the eldest and hitherto most docile of
+their daughters. The violent words of her father and
+the tears of her mother in no way shook Clare's determination;
+approaching the altar she placed one hand
+upon it while with the other she raised her veil, and
+facing her parents showed them the close cut hair which
+marked her as the bride of Jesus Christ. No earthly
+power, she said, should sever her from the life she
+had chosen of her own free will, and crest-fallen they
+left the convent without another word. It was hardly
+surprising that Agnes, the second sister, who sometimes
+went to see St. Clare at Bastia, should wish to take
+the veil. At this the fury of Count Favorino knew
+no bounds, and he sent his brother Monaldo with
+several armed followers, among whom may have been
+Clare's slighted lover, to force Agnes, if persuasion
+failed, to abandon her vocation. She was at their
+mercy but refused to leave the convent, so they caught
+her by her long fair hair and dragged her across the
+fields towards the town, kicking her as they went; her
+cries filled the air, "Clare, my sister, help, so that I
+may not be taken from my heavenly spouse." The
+prayers of Clare were heard, for suddenly the slight
+form of the girl became as lead in the arms of the
+soldiers, and in vain they tried to lift her. Monaldo,
+beside himself with rage, drew his sword to strike her
+when his arm dropt withered and useless by his side.
+Clare, who had by this time come upon the scene,
+begged them to desist from their cruel acts, and cowed
+by what had happened they slunk away, leaving the
+sisters to return to the convent.</p>
+
+<p>St. Francis seeing the devotion and steady vocation
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">264</a></span>
+of both Clare and Agnes, and doubtless foreseeing that
+many would follow their example, began to seek for
+some shelter where they could lead a life of prayer and
+labour. Again the Benedictines of Mount Subasio
+came forward with a gift, offering another humble
+sanctuary which the saint had repaired some years
+before. This was San Damiano, a chapel so old that
+none could tell its origin; the vague legend that it
+stands on the site of a pagan necropolis seems confirmed
+by a lofty fragment of Roman masonry which juts up
+on the roadside between the Porta Nuova and San
+Damiano. With his own hands St. Francis built a
+few rude cells near the chapel, resembling the cluster
+of huts by the Portiuncula, and here the "Poor Ladies"
+were to pass their days in prayer and manual labour.
+The little humble grey stone building among the olive
+trees with the pomgranates flowering against its walls,
+so different to a convent of the present day, must have
+seemed to Clare the realisation of a freer life than ever
+she had known before. Others felt its charm and before
+long several friends had joined her besides Bianca Guelfucci,
+while upon the death of Count Favorino, Madonna
+Ortolana received the habit from the hands of St. Francis
+together with her youngest daughter Beatrice. The fame
+of the order spread far and wide, gaining so many
+novices that several new houses were founded in Italy
+even during the first few years. In those early days St.
+Clare was given no written law to follow, but like the
+brethren she and her nuns learnt all the perfection of a
+religious life from St. Francis, who would often stop
+at San Damiano on his way to and from the town.
+He did not allow them to go beyond their boundaries,
+but a busy life was to be passed in their cells; owning
+nothing, they were to depend entirely upon what the
+brothers could beg for them in the town and country
+round, and when provisions were scarce they fasted.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">265</a></span>
+In return the nuns spun the grey stuff for the habits of
+the friars and the linen for their altars; and after St.
+Francis received the Stigmata, St. Clare fashioned
+sandals for him with space for the nails so that he
+might walk with more ease. Often the poor came
+to seek help at her hands, and many times the sick
+were tended in a little mud hut near her cell which she
+used as a hospital. Silently her life was passed, and to
+those who looked on from the outside perhaps it might
+have seemed of small avail compared with the very
+apparent results of St. Francis' endeavours to help his
+fellow creatures. But very quietly she was guiding
+the women of mediæval Italy towards higher aims, for
+even those who could not follow her into the cloister
+were aided in their lives at home by the thought of the
+pure-souled gentle nun of San Damiano. Not the least
+important part of her work was the womanly sympathy
+and help which she gave to St. Francis. He turned
+to her when in trouble, and it was she who encouraged
+him to continue preaching to the people when, at one
+time he thought that his vocation was to be a life of
+solitary prayer and not of constant contact with mankind.
+He counted on her prayers, and trusting in her
+counsel went forward once more to preach the words
+of redemption. From her lonely cell she watched his
+work with tender solicitude, and when blind and ill he
+came for the last time to San Damiano she tended
+to his wants in a little hut she erected for him not far
+from the convent whence, across the vineyard and olive
+grove which separated them, the first strains of his
+glorious Canticle to the Sun came to her one morning.
+Her gentle influence played an important part in his
+life, giving him a friendship which is one of the most
+beautiful things to dwell on in their lives. Some have
+sneered at its purity, and compared so ideal a connection
+to a commonplace mediæval tale of monk and nun;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">266</a></span>
+but it is degrading even to hint at such an ending to
+the love of these two for each other, and impossible
+to believe it after reading M. Sabatier's beautiful
+chapter on St. Clare, where he touches, in some
+of his most charming pages, upon a side of St.
+Francis' character that most biographers have but
+little understood.</p>
+
+<p>A beautiful story in the <i>Fioretti</i> relates how once
+St. Clare, desiring greatly to eat with St. Francis, a
+boon he had never accorded her, was granted the request
+at the earnest prayer of the brethren, "and
+that she may be the more consoled," he said, "I
+will that this breaking of bread take place in St.
+Mary of the Angels; for she has been so long
+shut up in S. Damian that it will rejoice her to
+see again the House of Mary, where her hair was
+shorn off, and she became the bride of Christ."
+Once more St. Clare came to the plain of the
+Portiuncula, and the saint spoke so sweetly and eloquently
+of heavenly things that all remained wrapped
+in ecstacy, oblivious of the food which was spread
+before them on the floor and, as Clare dwelt in
+divine contemplation, a great flame sprang up and
+shrouded them in celestial light. The Assisans and
+the people of Bettona, looking down from their
+walls upon the plain, thought that the Portiuncula
+was on fire, and hurried to the assistance of their
+beloved saint. "But coming close to the House,"
+says the <i>Fioretti</i>, "they entered within, and found
+St. Francis and St. Clare with all their company in
+contemplation wrapt in God as they sat round the
+humble board." Comforted by this spiritual feast
+St. Clare returned to San Damiano, where she was
+expected with great anxiety, as it had been imagined
+that St. Francis might have sent her to rule some
+other convent, "wherefore the sisters rejoiced exceedingly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">267</a></span>
+when they saw her face again." Those
+were peaceful and happy days, but sorrow came
+when news reached her that St. Francis was near
+his end; "she wept most bitterly, and refused to
+be comforted," for she too was ill, and feared to
+die before she could see his face again. This fear
+she signified through a brother unto the Blessed
+Francis, and when the saint, who loved her with a
+singular and paternal affection, heard it, he had pity on
+her; and considering that her desire to see him once
+more could not be fulfilled in the future, he sent her
+a letter with his benediction and absolving her from
+every fault.... "Go and tell sister Clare to lay aside
+all sadness and sorrow, for now she cannot see me,
+but of a truth before her death both she and her
+sisters shall see me and be greatly comforted." But
+the last she saw of him was through a lattice window,
+when they brought his dead body for the nuns to see
+and kiss the pierced hands and feet (see p. <a href="#Page_119">119</a>).</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="illo286" id="illo286"></a>
+<img src="images/illus286.jpg" width="348" height="366" alt="SAN DAMIANO, SHOWING THE WINDOW WITH
+THE LEDGE WHENCE ST. CLARE ROUTED
+THE SARACENS" />
+<p class="caption">SAN DAMIANO, SHOWING THE WINDOW WITH<br />
+THE LEDGE WHENCE ST. CLARE ROUTED<br />
+THE SARACENS</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="p2">A strange thing happened to disturb the peaceful
+serenity of their lives at San Damiano in the year
+1234, when the army of Frederic II, was fighting
+in the north of Italy, and a detachment of Saracen
+troops under one of his generals, Vitale d'Anversa,
+came through Umbria, pillaging the country as they
+passed. Assisi was a desirable prey, as it had been to
+many before them, and coming to the convent of San
+Damiano they scaled its walls, preparatory to a final
+rush upon the town. The terror of the nuns may be
+imagined, and running to the cell where Clare lay ill
+in bed they cowered round her "like frightened doves
+when the hawk has stooped upon their dovecote."
+Taking the Blessed Sacrament, which she was allowed
+to keep in a little chapel next to her cell, she proceeded
+to face the whole army, trusting like St.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">268</a></span>
+Martin in the power of prayer and personal courage.
+As she walked towards the window overlooking the
+small courtyard a voice spoke to her from the ciborium
+saying, "Assisi will have much to suffer, but my arm
+shall defend her." Raising the Blessed Sacrament on
+high she stood at the open window, against which the
+soldiers had already
+placed a ladder;
+those who were
+ascending, as they
+looked up towards
+her, fell back blinded,
+while the others took
+to flight, and thus
+cloister and city
+were saved through
+the intercession of
+the gentle saint.
+Vitale d'Anversa,
+who had not been
+present at the prodigy,
+probably thinking
+the soldiers had
+failed in their enterprise
+through lack of
+valour, came with a
+still larger company
+of men, and led them in person to storm the town.
+St. Clare, hearing what peril encompassed Assisi,
+and being asked by the citizens to intercede with
+Heaven as the enemy had sworn to bury them beneath
+their city walls, gathered all her nuns about her, and
+knelt in prayer with them. At dawn the next
+morning a furious tempest arose, scattering the tents
+of the Saracens in every direction, and causing such
+a panic that they took refuge in hasty flight. The
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">269</a></span>
+gratitude of the citizens increased their love for St.
+Clare, as all attributed their release to her prayers,
+and to this day she is regarded as the deliverer of
+her country.</p>
+
+<p>One cannot help regretting that while so many contemporary
+chroniclers have left detailed and varied accounts
+of St. Francis, they only casually allude to St. Clare,
+calling her "a sweet spring blossom," or "the chief
+rival of the Blessed Francis in the observance of Gospel
+perfection," but leaving later writers to form their own
+pictures of the saint. And the picture they give is
+always of a silent and prayerful nun, beautiful of feature,
+sweet and gentle of disposition, coming ever to the help
+of those who needed it, and acting the part of a guardian
+angel to the Assisans. Her horizon was bounded
+by the mountains of the Spoletan valley; and from the
+outside world, on which her influence worked so surely
+during her life and for long centuries after her death,
+only faint echoes reached her when a pope or a cardinal
+came to see her, or a princess wrote her a letter from
+some distant country. Among the many royal and
+noble people who had entered a Poor Clare sisterhood,
+or like St. Elizabeth of Hungary had joined the Third
+Order, was the Blessed Agnes, daughter of the King
+of Bohemia, who, kindled with a desire for a religious
+life upon hearing the story of St. Clare, refused the
+hand of Frederick II, and passed her life in a convent.
+Often she wrote to the Assisan abbess getting in reply
+most charming letters, beginning "To her who
+is dearer to me than any other mortal," or "To the
+daughter of the King of Kings, to the Queen of Virgins,
+to the worthy spouse of Jesus Christ; the unworthy
+servant of the poor nuns of San Damiano sends
+greetings and rejoicings in the good fortune of living
+always in the extremest poverty." These two never
+met, but their friendship was a close one, and their
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">270</a></span>
+correspondence, of which many letters are preserved,
+ceased only with their death.</p>
+
+<p>St. Clare survived St. Francis twenty-seven years,
+and they were sad years for one, who, like her clung
+so devoutly to his rule and teaching. She lived to see
+the first divisions among the franciscans, and before
+she died the corner-stone of the great Basilica had
+been raised, filling her with dismay for the future,
+for in its very grandeur and beauty she saw the downfall
+of the franciscan ideal. Not only did she witness
+all these changes, but in her own convent she had many
+battles to fight for the preservation of the rule she
+loved, she even courageously opposed the commands of
+the Pope himself who wished to mould the nuns to his
+wishes as he had done the friars. Even during the
+lifetime of St. Francis, while he was absent on a
+distant pilgrimage, Gregory IX, then Cardinal Ugolino,
+persuaded St. Clare of the necessity of having a written
+rule, and gave her that of the Benedictine nuns.
+But when she found that, although it was strict enough,
+it allowed the holding of property in community,
+which was entirely against the spirit of her order, she
+refused to agree to the innovation. So upon the saint's
+return he composed a written rule for the sisters, so
+strict, it is said, that its perusal drew tears from the
+eyes of the Cardinal Ugolino. Still she had to fight
+the battle of loyalty to a dead saint's memory; for the
+very year that Gregory came to Assisi for the canonisation
+of St. Francis he paid a visit to St. Clare, and
+with earnest words endeavoured to persuade her to
+mitigate her rule. She held so firmly to her way that
+the Pope thought she might perhaps be thinking of the
+vow of poverty which she had made at the Portiuncula,
+and told her he could absolve her from it through the
+powers of his papal keys. Then Clare summoned all
+her courage as she faced the Pontiff, and said to him
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">271</a></span>
+these simple words which showed him he need try no
+more to tempt her from duty, "Ah holy father," she
+cried, "I crave for the absolution of my sins, but I
+desire not to be absolved from following Jesus Christ."</p>
+
+<p>Gregory had often been puzzled by the unique unworldliness
+of St. Francis; his admiration for St. Clare
+was even more profound, and in reading his letters after
+leaving the franciscan abbess one forgets that he was
+over eighty at the time. With him she had gained
+her point once and for all, but upon his death she had
+to oppose the wishes of Innocent IV, who did all in his
+power to merge the franciscan order of Poor Clares
+into an ordinary Benedictine community. Again it
+ended in the triumph of St. Clare, and the day before
+her death she had the joy of receiving the news that
+the Pope had issued a papal bull sanctioning the rule
+for which both St. Francis and she had fought;
+namely, that they were to live absolutely poor without
+any worldly possession of any kind. "N'est-ce pas,"
+says M. Sabatier, "un des plus beaux tableaux de
+l'histoire religieuse, que celui de cette femme qui,
+pendant plus d'un quart de siècle, soutient contre les
+papes qui se succèdent sur le trône pontifical une lutte
+de tous les instants; qui demeure également respectueuse
+et inébranlable, et ne consent à mourir qu'après avoir
+remporté la victoire?"</p>
+
+<p>St. Clare during the remaining years of her life
+suffered continually from ill-health, and it was from
+a bed of infirmity that she so ardently prayed the Pope
+to sanction her rule of poverty, and enjoined the
+sisterhood to keep its tenets faithfully. Like St.
+Francis, brave and cheerful to the last, she called her
+weeping companions around her to give them her final
+blessing and farewell. Among them knelt the Blessed
+Agnes, who had come from her nunnery in Florence
+to assist her sister, and the three holy brethren Leo,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">272</a></span>
+Angelo and Juniper. On the 11th of August 1253,
+the feast of St. Rufino, as she was preparing to leave
+the world they heard her speak, but so softly that the
+words were lost to them. "Mother, with whom are
+you conversing?" asked one of the nuns, and she
+answered: "Sister, I am speaking with this little soul
+of mine, now blessed, to whom the glory of paradise
+is already opening."</p>
+
+<p>Then as the evening closed in and they were still
+watching, a great light was seen to fill the doorway
+leading from the oratory of St. Clare to her cell; and
+from out of it came a long procession of white-robed
+virgins led by the Queen of Heaven, whose head was
+crowned with a diadem of shining gold, and whose
+eyes sent forth such splendour as might have changed
+the night into the brightest day. And as each of the
+celestial visitors stooped to kiss St. Clare, the watching
+nuns knew that her soul had already reached its home.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>Once the little chapel of San Damiano has been seen
+there can be no fear of ever forgetting the charm
+attached to the memory of St. Clare, for she has left
+there something of her own character and personality,
+which we feel instinctively without being able quite to
+explain its presence. So near the town, only just
+outside its walls, this little sanctuary yet remains as in
+the olden times, one of the most peaceful spots that
+could have been chosen for a nunnery; but the silence
+which falls upon one while resting on the stone seats
+before entering the courtyard, has this difference with the
+silence of such a piazza as that of San Rufino or of some
+of the Assisan streets; that there the buildings tell of an
+age which is dead whose memories raise no responsive
+echoes in our hearts, whereas San Damiano is filled
+with the associations of those who, living so long ago,
+yet have left the atmosphere of their presence as a living
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">273</a></span>
+influence among us. As we look at the steep paths
+below us leading through the fields and the oak trees
+down to the plain, to Rivo-Torto and the Portiuncula,
+we think how often St. Francis went up and down it
+whenever he passed to see St. Clare and her sisters.
+And how many times did Brother Bernard come with
+messages when he lay dying, and news was anxiously
+awaited at San Damiano; then along the grass path
+skirting the hill from Porta Mojano were seen the crowds
+of nobles, townsfolk, peasants and friars bearing the
+dead body of the saint to San Giorgio, and pausing
+awhile at the convent for the love of St. Clare. A
+pope with all his cardinals next passes, on a visit to the
+young abbess; St. Bonaventure stops to ask her prayers;
+while the poor and the ill were ever knocking at the
+convent door to obtain her help or a word of kindly
+sympathy. In the Umbrian land it is so easy to realise
+these things, they are more than simply memories for
+those who have time to pause and dream awhile; and
+sometimes it has seemed, while reading the <i>Fioretti</i> or
+Brother Leo's chronicle beneath the olive trees of San
+Damiano, that we have slipped back through the ages, and
+looking up we half expect to see the hurrying figure of
+St. Francis moving quickly in and out among the trees.
+Suddenly the low sound of chanting comes through
+the open door of the convent reaching us like the
+incessant drone of a swarm of bees in the sunshine,
+until it dies away, and brown-clothed, sandalled
+brethren pass out across the courtyard, and two by
+two disappear down the hill on their way to the
+Portiuncula. They bring a whole gallery of portraits
+before our eyes, of brethren we read of, the companions
+of St. Francis; but when we look along the path they
+have taken and see the church of the Angeli standing
+high in the midst of the broad valley, its dome showing
+dark purple against the afternoon light, where we had
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">274</a></span>
+thought to catch a glimpse of the Portiuncula and a
+circle of mud huts, the dream of the olden time fades
+suddenly away. As we turn to enter the little church
+of San Damiano with the image of the great church
+of the plain still in our thoughts, we feel how much we
+owe to the reverence of the people and the friars who
+have kept it so simple and unadorned, its big stones
+left rough and weather-beaten as when St. Francis
+came to prepare a dwelling-house for sister Clare.
+Truly says M. Sabatier, "ce petit coin de terre
+ombrienne sera, pour nos descendants, comme ce puits
+de Jacob où Jésus s'assit un instant, un des parvis
+préférés du culte en esprit et en vérité."</p>
+
+<p>The church is very small and dim, with no frescoed
+walls or altar pictures to arouse the visitor's interest, and
+only its connection with the names of Francis and Clare
+bring the crowds who come to pray here. Even the
+crucifix which spoke to St. Francis, telling him to rebuild
+the ruined sanctuary, no longer hangs in the choir, but is
+now in the keeping of the nuns in Santa Chiara. A
+few relics are kept in the cupboard&mdash;a pectoral cross
+given by St. Bonaventure, the bell with which St.
+Clare called the sisters to office, her breviary written
+by Brother Leo in his neat, small writing, and the
+tabernacle of alabaster which she held up before the
+invading host of Saracens upon that memorable occasion.
+There is also a small loaf of bread which recalls
+the well-known story recounted in the <i>Fioretti</i> (cap.
+xxxiii.) of how Pope Innocent IV, came to see St. Clare,
+"to hear her speak of things celestial and divine; and
+as they were thus discoursing together on diverse
+matters, St. Clare ordered dinner to be made ready,
+and the bread to be laid on the table so that the Holy
+Father might bless it; and when their spiritual conference
+was finished, St. Clare, kneeling most reverently,
+prayed him to bless the bread which was on the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">275</a></span>
+table. The Holy Father replied: 'Most faithful
+Sister Clare, I will that thou shouldst bless this bread
+and make upon it the sign of the most blessed Cross of
+Christ, to whom thou hast so entirely given thyself.'
+St. Clare said: 'Holy Father, pardon me, for I
+should be guilty of too great a presumption if in the
+presence of the Vicar of Christ, I, who am but a
+miserable woman, should presume to give such a
+benediction.' And the Pope answered: 'That this
+should not be ascribed to presumption, but to the merit
+of obedience, I command thee by holy obedience to
+make the sign of the Holy Cross on this bread, and to
+bless it in the name of God.' Then St. Clare, as a
+true daughter of obedience, most devoutly blessed that
+bread with the sign of the Holy Cross. And marvellous
+to say, incontinently on all the loaves the
+sign of the Holy Cross appeared most fairly impressed;
+then of that bread part was eaten and part kept for
+the miracle's sake."</p>
+
+<p>A ring belonging to St. Clare was also kept here,
+until in the year 1615 a Spanish franciscan vicar-general
+with his secretary came to visit San Damiano,
+and such was his devotion for anything that had
+belonged to the saintly abbess that when a few months
+later the relics were being shown to some other visitors,
+the precious ring was missing. A great disturbance
+arose in the city, and angry letters were speedily sent
+after the Spanish priest as suspicion had fallen upon
+him at once; he did not deny that he had piously
+stolen the ring, but as it was now well upon its way to
+Spain where, he assured the irate Assisans, it would
+be much honoured and well cared for, he refused
+to return it. The citizens and friars still regret the
+day that the Spanish dignitary and his secretary called
+at San Damiano.</p>
+
+<p>The small chapel out of the nave was built in the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">276</a></span>
+middle of the seventeenth century to contain the large
+Crucifix which is still there, and whose story is very
+famous. In 1634 Brother Innocenzo of Palermo was
+sent to the convent to carve a crucifix for the friars, his
+sanctity and the talent he possessed as an artist being
+well known. After nine days he completed all except
+the head, and on returning next morning after early
+mass he found that mysterious hands had fashioned it
+during the night; not only was it of wonderful workmanship,
+but looking at it from three different points
+of view three different expressions were seen&mdash;of peace,
+of agony, and of death. The fame of the Crucifix
+spread throughout Umbria, and people flocked to San
+Damiano. "Now, the devil," says a chronicler,
+"very wrath to see such devotion in so many hearts,
+turned his mind to finding out some means of sowing
+seeds of discord. Through his doing there arose in
+Assisi a whisper that owing to the rapidly growing fame
+of this Crucifix, the ancient one of the cathedral would
+lose the veneration in which it had hitherto been held."</p>
+
+<p>Now before placing the Crucifix of San Damiano
+in its place over the high altar the monks settled that
+it should be carried in solemn procession through
+Assisi. "But," writes the angry chronicler, "those
+who had joined this diabolical conspiracy against our
+Crucifix were not slow to prevent this, and had recourse
+to the Inquisitor of Perugia, who was induced
+to send his vicar to stop the procession, and bid the
+monks of San Damiano to keep their Crucifix hidden
+and allow no one to see it." There arose a terrible
+storm in the troubled community of Assisi, between
+those who took the part of the "persecuted Crucifix"
+and those who sided with the jealous canons of the
+cathedral. Finally, the case was placed before the
+Pope himself, and all waited anxiously the result of
+his investigations. A duplicate of the Crucifix of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">277</a></span>
+San Damiano was sent to Rome that it might be
+well examined by the Pope and the whole college of
+cardinals, and they not finding in the pious Brother
+Innocenzio's work anything contrary to the teaching
+of the gospel, it was unanimously decreed that the
+Crucifix of San Damiano might receive all the homage
+and love of the friars and citizens. So on a burning
+Sunday in August solemn high mass was sung at the
+altar of St. Clare in San Damiano and, although the
+friars were defrauded of their procession, such was the
+concourse of people who came to gain the plenary indulgence
+granted by His Holiness that the good friars rejoiced,
+and were comforted for all the persecution they
+had suffered on account of this marvellous Crucifix.
+What must have been the feelings of Brother Innocenzo
+as he stood by the high altar and watched the
+crowd of worshippers and the women lifting up their
+streaming eyes to the crucifix he had fashioned in his
+cell? The devotion to it grew as the years passed on,
+and we read that a century later the monks were
+obliged "for their greater quiet to transfer it from the
+choir to the chapel," where it now is, after which the
+monks could say their office in peace. Now we see it
+surrounded with votive offerings, and our guide pours
+forth an incessant stream of praise, and recounts at
+length numberless miracles.</p>
+
+<p>Through the chapel of the Crucifix we reach the
+choir of St. Clare, left as when she used it, with
+the old worm-eaten stalls against the wall. It is
+probable that originally this was part of the house
+of the priest who had the keeping of San Damiano
+before the benedictines gave it to the Poor Clares;
+for here is shown the recess in the wall where St.
+Francis hid when his father came to seek for him,
+and where he is supposed to have lived in hiding
+for a whole month until the storm should have blown
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">278</a></span>
+over. It was for the rebuilding of the chapel that
+he had taken bales of costly stuffs from the Bernardone
+warehouse in Assisi to sell at the fair of
+Foligno, and thus called forth the wrath of Messer
+Pietro. The good priest of San Damiano was so
+much astonished at this sudden conversion of Francis,
+that thinking he mocked him he refused to accept
+the purse of gold, which Francis finally threw on to
+a dusty window-sill. But the priest soon became
+his friend, allowing him to remain at San Damiano
+and partake of such humble fare as he could give,
+joining him in repairing of the poor ruined chapel.</p>
+
+<p>An artist of the sixteenth century had sought to
+adorn the altar with a fresco of the Crucifixion which
+was only discovered a few months ago, but the whitewashed
+walls and severe simplicity of the rest seem
+more in keeping with the place than this crude attempt
+at decoration. By a rough flight of stairs we reach
+the small private oratory of St. Clare, which communicated
+with her cell and where, in her latter days
+of illness, she was permitted to keep the Blessed
+Sacrament. The rest of the convent being strict
+"clausura," ever since the Marquess of Ripon
+bought San Damiano from the Italian Government
+and gave it into the keeping of the franciscan friars,
+can only be seen by men. Within is the refectory
+of St. Clare where Innocent IV, dined with her and
+witnessed the miracle of the loaves, and Eusebio di
+San Giorgio (1507) has painted in the cloister two
+fine frescoes of the Annunciation and St. Francis receiving
+the Stigmata.</p>
+
+<p>But anyone may step out into the small and charming
+garden of St. Clare which is on a level with
+her oratory. Walls rising on either side leave only
+a narrow vista of the valley where Bevagna, and
+Montefalco on her hill, can just be seen. Within
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">279</a></span>
+this small enclosed space the saint is said to have
+taken her daily exercise and carefully attended to
+the flowers, and the friars to this day keep a row of
+flowers there in memory of her. It will be well on
+leaving the chapel of San Damiano to look at the
+open chapel in the courtyard where Tiberio d'Assisi
+has painted one of his most pleasing compositions.
+The Madonna is seated in an Umbrian valley, low
+lines of hills fade away in the distance, and franciscan
+saints, among whom St. Jerome with his lion
+seems curiously out of place, surround her, while at
+her feet is placed the kneeling figure of the nun
+who succeeded St. Clare as abbess. It is signed
+and dated 1517, while the fresco on the side-wall of
+St. Sebastian and St. Roch was painted five years
+later. In another corner of the courtyard, near the
+entrance, is a painting in a niche of the Madonna
+and saints by some Umbrian artist who felt the influence
+of both Giotto and Simone Martini, so that
+we have a curious, if pleasing result.</p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">Santa Chiara</span></p>
+
+<p>St. Clare was no sooner dead than the people, as
+they had done with St. Francis, sought to honour
+her memory, but in this case, Innocent IV, being
+in Assisi for the consecration of the Franciscan
+Basilica, the funeral service was conducted by the
+Pope and cardinals. Such a gathering of church
+dignitaries, Assisan nobles, priors and people had
+certainly never been seen in the humble convent of
+San Damiano; their presence, though honouring the
+saint, filled the hearts of the nuns with sorrow for
+they knew they had come to take the body of St.
+Clare to Assisi. With tears they consented to its
+being placed in safety in San Giorgio, but only on
+the condition that they might eventually be allowed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">280</a></span>
+to live near her tomb in some humble shelter. San
+Damiano without her, alive or dead, meant little to
+them, and they were ready to abandon a home of
+so many memories to go where they and their successors
+could guard her body to the end of time.
+Devotion to her memory and belief in her sanctity
+was not solely confined to them; when the friars
+rose to intone the service of the dead, Pope Innocent
+signified that there should be silence, and to the
+wonder of all ordered high mass to be sung and
+the funeral service to be changed into one of triumph,
+in honour of her who he believed was already with
+the Virgins in heaven. It was a kind of canonisation,
+but could not be regarded as valid without the usual
+preliminaries being performed, and the cardinals, more
+cautious and less enthusiastic than His Holiness, persuaded
+him to wait and in the meanwhile allow the
+ordinary service to proceed. To this he consented,
+and then amidst music and singing the Pope led the
+people up the hill where years before another saint
+had been borne to the same church of San Giorgio,
+and as on that day a funeral ceremony became a
+triumphal procession.</p>
+
+<p>Innocent IV, died soon after, and it was Alexander
+IV, who in September 1255, two years after her
+death, canonized St. Clare in a Bull replete with
+magnificent eulogy in which there is a constant
+play upon her name: "Clara claris præclara meritis,
+magnæ in coelo claritate gloriæ, ac in terra miraculorum
+sublimum clare gaudet ... O admiranda
+Claræ beatæ claritas." Another two years were
+allowed to elapse before they began to erect a building
+to her memory; besides the readiness shown by
+every town to honour their saints, the Assisans had
+especial cause to remember St. Clare, as she had
+twice saved them from the Saracen army of Frederic
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">281</a></span>
+II. Willingly the magistrates and nobles, besides
+many strangers who had heard of the saint's renown,
+contributed money for the new building, and Fra
+Filippo Campello the minorite was chosen as the
+architect. Fine as his new work proved to be it
+was rather the copy of a masterpiece than the inspiration
+of a great architect, which makes it more probable
+that he was only employed in completing the
+church of San Francesco from the designs of that
+first mysterious architect, and not, as some have said,
+its sole builder.</p>
+
+<p>The canons of San Rufino offered the church and
+hospital of San Giorgio which belonged to them. A
+more fitting site for the church to be raised in honour
+of St. Clare could not have been chosen, for it was
+here that St. Francis had learnt to read and write as a
+child under the guidance of the parish priest; here he
+preached his first sermon, and later touched the heart
+of Clare by his words during the lenten services; and
+here both of them were laid in their stone urns until
+their last resting places were ready. So around the
+little old parish church with its many memories, and
+within sight of the Scifi palace, arose "as if by magic"
+the new temple with its tall and slender campanile.
+The hospital enlarged and improved became the convent,
+and the church was used by the nuns as a choir,
+the rest of the large building, which they could only
+see through iron gratings, being for the use of the congregation.
+With its alternate layers of pink and cream-coloured
+stone, wheel window and finely modelled
+door, the church fits well into its sunny piazza, and
+is a beautiful ending to the eastern side of Assisi. But
+in building it Fra Filippo forgot the crumbling nature
+of the soil, and failed to overcome the difficulty of position
+as had been done so admirably at San Francesco,
+so that in 1351 it became necessary to prop up the sides
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">282</a></span>
+by strong flying buttresses, which, while serving as an
+imposing arched entrance to the side of the church,
+sadly detract from the feeling of solidity of the main
+building. A darker stone with no rosy tints was used
+for the convent, which makes it look very grim and
+old as it rises out of a soft and silvery setting of olive
+trees on the hillside, with orchards near of peaches
+and almonds. There is a great charm in the brown,
+weather-beaten convent, though a certain sadness when
+we remember, in looking at its tiny windows like holes
+in the wall through which only narrow vistas of the
+beautiful valley can be seen, how changed must be the
+lives of these cloistered nuns from those of the Poor
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">283</a></span>
+Ladies of San Damiano in the time of St. Clare. They
+are now an order of the orthodox type, an order given
+to prayer and not to labour, and seeing no human face
+from the outside world except through an iron grating.
+So early as 1267 their connection with the franciscan
+brotherhood ceased; the brethren no longer heard their
+confessions or begged for them through the land as St.
+Francis had decreed; they lived under the patronage
+of the Pope, who declared their convent to be
+under the especial jurisdiction of the Holy See, and on
+the feast of St. Francis called upon the nuns to send a
+pound of wax candles in sign of tribute. As the Pope
+had often in olden times become master of Assisi so
+now he obtained the rule over her monastic institutions,
+gaining the temporal allegiance of the religious, as he
+had gained that of the citizens.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo300" id="illo300"></a>
+<img src="images/illus300.jpg" width="450" height="397" alt="SANTA CHIARA"  />
+<p class="caption">SANTA CHIARA</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Upon entering the church of Santa Chiara out of
+the sunshine, we are struck with a sense of the coldness
+of its scant ornamentation, a want of colour, and a
+general idea that artists in first directing their steps to
+San Francesco had not had time to give much thought
+to the church of the gentle saint. Giottino is said by
+Vasari to have painted frescoes here, and they may be
+those ruined bits of colour in the right transept where
+it is only possible to distinguish a few heads or parts of
+figures here and there in what seems to be a procession,
+perhaps the Translation of St. Clare from San Damiano to
+San Giorgio. It is said that their present condition of ruin
+is due to the German bishop Spader who, fearing that
+the nuns might see too much of the world through the
+narrow grating because of the number of people who came
+to see the frescoes, had them whitewashed in the seventeenth
+century. The people came less, the nuns were
+safer, but Giottino's (?) frescoes are lost to us and we
+do not bless the memory of the German bishop of
+Assisi. The frescoes of the ceiling he did not
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">284</a></span>
+touch, and we have in them some interesting work of
+an artist of the fourteenth century whose name is unknown,
+but who undoubtedly followed the Giottesque
+traditions, though not with the fidelity or the genius of
+the artist who painted the legend of St. Nicholas in
+San Francesco. In decorating the four spandrels he
+has been influenced by the allegories of Giotto, and
+the angels are grouped round the principal figures in
+much the same manner; they kneel, some with hands
+crossed upon their breasts, but they are silent worshippers
+with not a single instrument among them. The
+saints who stand in the midst of the angels in Gothic
+tabernacles are the Madonna with a charming Infant
+Jesus who grasps her mantle, and St. Clare; St. Cecilia
+crowned with roses, and St. Lucy; St. Agnes holding
+a lamb, and St. Rose of Viterbo; St. Catherine, and
+St. Margaret with a book in her hand. The artist has
+used such soft harmonious colours and bordered his
+frescoes with such pretty medallions of saints' heads
+and designs of foliage that one wishes he had been
+given the whole church to decorate and thus saved it
+from its present desolate appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The large crucifix behind the altar, a characteristic
+work of that time, has been ascribed to Margaritone,
+Giunta Pisano, or Cimabue. It was painted, as the inscription
+says, by the order of the abbess Benedicta,
+who succeeded St. Clare and was the first to rule in
+the new convent, but the artist did not sign his name.
+The chapel of St. Agnes contains a Madonna which
+Herr Thode with far-seeing eyes recognises through all
+its layers of modern paint as Cimabue's work. There
+is also a much retouched, but rather charming picture
+of St. Clare, painted according to its inscription in
+1283. She stands in her heavy brown dress and
+mantle, a thick cord round her waist, and on either
+side are scenes from her life. The small triptych of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">285</a></span>
+the Crucifixion on a gold ground is an interesting work
+by the artist of the four frescoes of the ceiling, and a
+nearer view of some of the peculiarities of his style is
+obtained. It is impossible to mistake the long slender
+necks, the curiously shaped ears with the upper part
+very long, the narrow eyes, straight noses and small
+mouths, sometimes drooping slightly at the corners,
+which he gives his figures. He is another of those
+nameless painters who came to Assisi in the wake of
+the great Florentine.</p>
+
+<p>The visitor would leave Santa Chiara with a feeling
+of disappointment were it not for the chapel of San
+Giorgio, the original place so often mentioned in connection
+with St. Francis and now open to the public.
+The crucifix of the tenth century, so famous for having
+bowed its head to St. Francis in the church of San
+Damiano bidding him to repair the ruined churches
+of Assisi, is to be removed from the parlour, where it is
+temporarily kept, and placed behind the altar. The
+chapel, with a groined roof, is square, small and of
+perfect form, and ornamented with several frescoes.
+On the left wall is a delightful St. George fighting the
+dragon in the presence of a tall princess, her face showing
+very white against her red hair. There is a naïve
+scene of the Magi, whose sleeves are as long and whose
+hands are as spidery as those of the princess; and
+above is an Annunciation. Behind the curtain in the
+fresco a small child is standing who is evidently the
+donor, but some people believe he represents the Infant
+Jesus, which certainly would account for the surprised
+attitude of the Virgin. This wall was painted in the
+sixteenth century by some artist of the Gubbio school,
+but his name we have been unable to discover. Quite
+a different character marks the frescoes upon the next
+wall, which would seem to be the work of an Umbrian
+scholar of Simone Martini, or at least by one more
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">286</a></span>
+influenced by the Sienese than the Florentine masters.
+There is a softness and an ivory tone in the paintings
+of the saints, a languid look in their eyes, a sweetness
+about the mouth peculiar to the Umbrian followers of
+Simone, who like him succeed less well with male than
+with female saints. Here the Madonna, seated on a
+Gothic throne against a crimson dais, with a broad
+forehead and blue eyes, her soft veil falling in graceful
+folds about her slender neck, is unusually charming.
+The St. George with his shield is perhaps less disappointing
+than St. Francis, but then Simone fails to
+quite express the nature of the Seraphic Preacher.
+We turn to St. Clare of the oval face and clear brown
+eyes, and feel that the painter had a subject which
+appealed to him, even to the brown habit and black
+veil which makes the face seem more delicate and fair.
+Above are the Crucifixion, Entombment and Resurrection,
+suggesting in the strained attitudes of the figures a
+follower of Pietro Lorenzetti. Some remains of frescoes
+upon the next wall resemble those in the nave of the
+Lower Church, and probably also belong to the second
+half of the thirteenth century. Indeed the architecture
+of the chapel bears a striking resemblance to San
+Francesco, so that although this is the original building
+of San Giorgio which existed long before the Franciscan
+Basilica, it was in all probability remodelled by
+Fra Campello, who may have given it the pretty
+groined roof.</p>
+
+<p>But above all the works of art and all the views of
+church or convent, the pious pilgrim treasures the
+privilege of being able to gaze upon the body of the
+saint in the crypt below the high altar reached by
+a broad flight of marble stairs. St. Clare had been
+buried so far out of sight and reach that her tomb was
+only found in the year 1850, after much search had
+been made. Five bishops, with Cardinal Pecci, now
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">287</a></span>
+Pope Leo XIII, and the magistrates of the town, were
+present at the opening of the sepulchre; the iron bars
+which bound it were filed asunder, and the body of the
+saint was found lying clad in her brown habit as if
+buried but a little while since; the wild thyme which
+her companions had sprinkled round her six hundred
+years ago, withered as it was, still sent up a sweet
+fragrance, while a few green and tender leaves are said
+to have been clinging to her veil. So great was the
+joy at discovering this precious relic that a procession
+was organised "with pomp impossible to describe."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo305" id="illo305"></a>
+<img src="images/illus305.jpg" width="450" height="303" alt="SANTA CHIARA FROM NEAR THE PORTA MOJANO"  />
+<p class="caption">SANTA CHIARA FROM NEAR THE PORTA MOJANO</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the Sunday at dawn every bell commenced to
+ring calling the people to high mass, and never, says
+a proud chronicler, were so many bishops and such
+a crowd seen as upon that day. At the elevation of
+the Host the bells pealed forth again announcing the
+solemn moment to the neighbouring villages; soon
+after the procession was formed of lay confraternities,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">288</a></span>
+priests and friars, and little children dressed as
+angels strewed the way with flowers. The peasants,
+with tears raining down their cheeks, pressed near the
+coffin, and had to be kept back by some of the Austrian
+soldiers then quartered in Assisi. First they went
+to the Cathedral, then to San Francesco, "the body
+of St. Clare thus going to salute the body of her great
+master. Oh admirable disposition of God." It was
+evening before they returned to the church of Santa
+Chiara, where the nuns anxiously awaited them at the
+entrance of their cloister to place the body of their
+foundress in the chapel of San Giorgio until a sanctuary
+should be built beneath the high altar. It was soon
+finished, ornamented with Egyptian alabaster and Italian
+marbles, and the body of St. Clare was laid there to be
+venerated by the faithful.</p>
+
+<p>As pilgrims stand before a grating in the dimly
+lighted crypt the gentle rustle of a nun's dress is
+heard; slowly invisible hands draw the curtain aside,
+and St. Clare is seen lying in a glass case upon a
+satin bed, her face clearly outlined against her black
+and white veils, whilst her brown habit is drawn in
+straight folds about her body. She clasps the book
+of her Rule in one hand, and in the other holds a lily
+with small diamonds shining on the stamens. The
+silence is unbroken save for the gentle clicking of the
+rosary beads slipping through the fingers of the invisible
+nun who keeps watch, and as she lets the curtain down
+again and blows out the lights there is a feeling that
+we have intruded upon the calm sleep of the "Seraphic
+Mother."</p>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">CHAPTER X</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">289</a></span></p>
+<p class="center b175"><i>Other Buildings in the Town</i></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>
+The Cathedral of San Rufino. Roman Assisi. The Palazzo
+Pubblico. The Chiesa Nuova. S. Paolo. Sta. Maria Maggiore.
+S. Quirico. S. Appolinare. S. Pietro. The Confraternities
+(Chiesa dei Pellegrini, etc.). The Castle.
+</p></div>
+
+<p><span class="dropcap">A</span>ssisi is the only town we know of in Italy where
+the interest does not centre round its cathedral
+and a certain sadness is felt, which perhaps is not difficult
+to explain; St. Francis holds all in his spell now
+just as he held the people long ago, so that the saints
+who first preached Christianity to the Assisans, were
+martyred and brought honour to the city, are almost
+forgotten and their churches deserted. The citizens,
+though proud of their Duomo, with its beautiful brown
+façade, hardly appear to love it, and we have often
+thought that they too feel the sense of gloom and isolation
+in the small piazza, which makes it a place ill-fitted
+to linger in for long. Men come and go so
+silently, women fill their pitchers at the fountain but
+only the splashing of water is heard, and they quickly
+disappear down a street; even the houses have no life,
+for while the windows are open no one looks out, and
+the total absence of flowers gives them a further look
+of desolation. This part of the town was already old
+in mediæval times, and the far away mystery of an
+age which has few records still lives around the cathedral
+and its bell tower. San Rufino stands in the very
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">290</a></span>
+centre of Roman Assisi and its history begins very
+soon after the Roman era, one might say was contemporary
+with it, as the saint whose name it bears, was
+martyred in the reign of Diocletian. All the details
+of his death, together with the charming legend about
+the building of the cathedral, come down to us in a
+hymn by St. Peter Damian, who, although writing in
+1052 of things which it is true happened long before,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">291</a></span>
+had very likely learnt the traditions about it from the
+Assisans while he lived in his mountain hermitage near
+Gubbio. The story goes back to the time when the
+Roman consul of Assisi received orders to stamp out
+the fast-spreading roots of Christianity, and began his
+work by putting to death St. Rufino, the pastor of
+the tiny flock. The soldiers hurried the Bishop down
+to the river Chiaggio and, after torturing him in horrible
+fashion, flung him into the water with a heavy stone
+round his neck. Some say that the Emperor Diocletian
+came in person to see his orders carried out.
+That night the Assisan Christians stole down to the
+valley to rescue the body of their Bishop and place it
+in safety within the castle of Costano, which still stands
+in the fields close to the river but almost hidden by
+the peasant houses built around it. Here, in a marble
+sarcophagus he rested, cared for and protected by each
+succeeding generation of Christians who had learned
+from tradition to love his memory, and secretly they
+visited the castle in the plain to pray by the tomb of
+the martyred saint. Their vigilance continued until
+the fifth century, when the Christians had already
+begun to burn the Pagan temples and build churches
+of their own. Christianity, indeed, spread so rapidly
+throughout Umbria that other towns cultivated a love
+for relics, and fearing that the body of St. Rufino
+might be stolen from the castle in the open country,
+the Assisans took the first opportunity of bringing it
+within the town. In the year 412 Bishop Basileo,
+with his clergy and congregation met at Costano, to
+seek through prayer some inspiration so that they
+might know where to take the body of their saint.
+As they knelt by his tomb an old man of venerable
+aspect suddenly appeared among them, and spoke these
+words in the Lord's name: "Take," he said, "two
+heifers which have not felt the yoke, and harness them
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">292</a></span>
+to a car whereon you shall lay the body of St. Rufino.
+Follow the road taken by the heifers and where they
+stop, there, in his honour shall ye build a church."
+These words were faithfully obeyed: the heifers, knowing
+what they were to do, turned towards Assisi, and
+brought the relics, through what is now the Porta S.
+Pietro, to that portion of the old town known as the
+"Good Mother" because the goddess Ceres is said to
+be buried there. The heifers then turned slowly round,
+faced the Bishop and his people, and refused to move.
+For some obscure reason the place did not please the
+Assisans, and they began to build a church further up
+the hill; but every morning they found the walls, which
+had been erected during the preceding day, pulled
+down, until discouraged, they submitted to the augury,
+and returned to the spot chosen by the heifers. Before
+long, over the tomb of the Roman goddess, arose the
+first Christian church of Assisi, dedicated to San
+Rufino.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo308" id="illo308"></a>
+<img src="images/illus308.jpg" width="389" height="500" alt="CAMPANILE OF SAN RUFINO"  />
+<p class="caption">CAMPANILE OF SAN RUFINO</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>A few years ago the late Canon Elisei who has
+written many interesting pamphlets on the cathedral,
+obtained permission from the government to
+clear away the rubble beneath the present church;
+masses of Roman inscriptions and pieces of sculpture
+were brought to light, together with part of the primitive
+church of Bishop Basileo, and the whole of what
+is known as the Chiesa Ugonia, from the Bishop of
+that name who built it in 1028. With lighted torches
+the visitor can descend to the primitive basilica and
+realise what a peaceful spot had been chosen for this
+early place of worship, while picturing the Christians
+as they knelt round the body of their Bishop,
+the light falling dimly upon them through the
+narrow Lombard windows. The six columns, with
+their varied capitals rising straight from the ground
+without the support of bases, give a somewhat
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">293</a></span>
+funereal aspect, recalling a crypt rather than a
+church. The few vestiges of frescoes in the apse&mdash;St.
+Mark and his lion, and St. Costanso, Bishop of
+Perugia&mdash;are said to be, with the paintings in S.
+Celso at Verona, the oldest in Italy after those in the
+catacombs at Rome. Ruins of other frescoes, perhaps
+of the same date, can be traced above the door
+of the first basilica, together with some stone-work
+in low relief of vine leaves and grapes, but it is difficult
+to see them without going behind a column built in
+total disregard of this lower building. The Roman
+sarcophagus is still in the apse where the altar once
+stood, but open and neglected, for the body of St.
+Rufino now lies beneath the altar of the present cathedral.
+It is ornamented in rough high relief with the
+story of Endymion; Diana steps from her chariot
+towards the sleeping shepherd, Pomona has her arms
+full of fruit and flowers, and there are nymphs and little
+gods of love and sleep. "It appeared to us," remarks
+one prudish chronicler of the church, "the first time
+we beheld it, that it was indecent to have present before
+the eyes of the faithful so unseemly a fable; our scruples
+we however laid aside in remembering that Holy Church
+is endowed with the power of purging from temples,
+altars and urns, all pagan abominations, and from superstition
+to turn them to the true service of God." No
+such scruples existed during the early times, and there
+is an amusing story of how the people wishing to place
+the marble sarcophagus, which had been left at Costano
+five centuries before, in the Chiesa Ugonia,
+were prevented by the Bishop who admired it, and
+had given orders that it should be brought to his
+palace at Sta. Maria Maggiore. A great tumult
+arose in the town, but although the people came to
+blows and the fight was serious on both sides, no blood
+was shed. A further miracle took place when the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">294</a></span>
+Bishop, determined to have his way, sent sixty men
+down to Costano who were unable to move the sarcophagus
+which remained as though rooted in the
+earth; and the event was the more remarkable as
+seven men afterwards brought it at a run up the
+hill to the church of San Rufino, where it remains
+to this day.</p>
+
+<p>Already two basilicas had been built in honour of
+the saint, but the Assisans dissatisfied with their size
+and magnificence, in the year 1134 called in the most
+famous architect of the day, Maestro Giovanni of
+Gubbio, who before his death in 1210 had all but
+completed the present cathedral and campanile. It
+is a great surprise when, emerging from the narrow
+street leading from the Piazza Minerva thinking to
+have seen all that is loveliest in Assisi, we suddenly
+catch sight of the cathedral and its bell-tower. The
+rough brown stone which Maestro Giovanni has so
+beautifully worked into delicately rounded columns,
+cornices, rose-windows and doors with fantastic beasts,
+sometimes looks as dark as a capucin's habit, but there
+are moments in the late afternoon when all the warmth
+of the sun's rays sinks into it, radiating hues of golden
+orange which as suddenly deepen to dark brown again
+as the light dies away behind the Perugian hills.</p>
+
+<p>All three doors are fine with their quaint ornaments
+of birds and beasts and flowers, but upon the central
+one Giovanni expended all his art. It is framed in
+by a double pattern of water-lilies and leaves, of
+human faces, beasts, penguins and other birds with
+a colour in their wings like tarnished gold. The
+red marble lions which guard the entrance, with
+long arched necks and symmetrical curls, a human
+figure between their paws, may belong to an even
+earlier period, and perhaps were taken by Giovanni
+da Gubbio from the Chiesa Ugonia to decorate his
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">295</a></span>
+façade, together with the etruscan-looking figures of
+God the Father, the Virgin and St. Rufino in the
+lunette above. Just below the windows a long row
+of animals, such pre-historic beasts as may have walked
+upon Subasio when no man was there to interrupt their
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">296</a></span>
+passage, seem to move in endless procession, and look
+down with faces one has seen in dreams.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo313" id="illo313"></a>
+<img src="images/illus313.jpg" width="389" height="477" alt="DOOR OF SAN RUFINO"  />
+<p class="caption">DOOR OF SAN RUFINO</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The interior of the cathedral is a disappointment; at
+first we accuse the great Maestro Giovanni for this painful
+collection of truncated lines and inharmonious shapes,
+until we find how utterly his work was ruined in the
+sixteenth century by Galeazzo Alessi of Perugia. To
+understand what the church was five centuries before
+Alessi came, it is necessary to climb the campanile
+(only those who are attracted by ricketty ladders and
+dizzy heights are advised to make the trial), and when
+nearly half way up step out on to Alessi's roof, whence
+we can view the havoc he has made. But he could
+not spoil Giovanni's rose-windows, and through one of
+them we see the castle on its green hill and the town
+below, cut into sections as though we were looking
+at the Umbrian world through a kaleidoscope.</p>
+
+<p>The outside of San Rufino is so lovely that we
+should be inclined to advise none to enter, and thus spoil
+the impression it makes, were it not for the triptych
+by Niccolò da Foligno, "the first painter in whom the
+emotional, now passionate and violent, now mystic and
+estatic, temperament of St. Francis' countrymen was
+revealed."<a name="FNanchor_103" id="FNanchor_103" href="#Footnote_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a> Here we find a dreamy Madonna with
+flaxen hair, surrounded by tiny angels even fairer than
+herself in crimson and golden garments folded about
+their hips. The lunettes above are studded with
+patches of jewel-colour, angels spreading their pointed
+wings upwards as they seem to be wafted to and fro
+by a breeze. Four tall and serious saints stand round
+the Virgin like columns; to the right St. Peter Damian
+busily writing in a book, and St. Marcello, an Assisan
+martyr of the fourth century who might pass for a
+typical Italian priest of the present day. On the left
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">297</a></span>
+is St. Rufino in the act of giving his pastoral blessing,
+and St. Esuberanzio, another of Assisi's early martyrs,
+holding a missal. They stand in a meadow thickly
+overgrown with flowers drawn with all Niccolò's firm
+outline and love of detail. Fine as the picture is, it
+cannot compare with the charming predella where the
+artist has worked with the delicacy of a miniature painter.
+It represents the martyrdom of St. Rufino; in the
+first small compartment the Roman soldiers on horseback,
+their lances held high in the air, followed by a
+group of prying boys, watch the Bishop's tortures as
+the flames shoot up around him; and in the distance
+are two small hill-towns with the towers of Costano in
+the plain. Then follows the scene where two young
+Assisan Christians have come down to the Chiaggio to
+rescue the body of their saint from the river. He lies
+stiffly in their arms, attired in his episcopal vestments,
+and the water has sucked the long folds of his cope
+below its surface. The last represents the procession
+of citizens led by Bishop Basileo bringing St. Rufino's
+body from Costano, and is one of the most exquisite
+bits of Umbrian painting. Niccolò has placed the
+scene in early morning, the air is keen among the
+mountains, the sun has just reached Assisi, seen against
+the white slopes of Subasio, and turns its houses to a
+rosy hue, while the tiny wood in the plain is still in
+deepest shadow. The white-robed acolytes mount the
+hill in the sunlight followed by the people and the
+heifers which ought, Niccolò has forgotten, according
+to the legend, to have led the way. The picture is
+signed Opus Nicholai De Fuligneo MCCCCLX.</p>
+
+<p>The only other fine things in the cathedral are the
+stalls of intarsia work of carved wood, by Giovanni di
+Pier Giacomo da San Severino (1520), a pupil of the
+man who executed the far finer stalls in San Francesco.
+In the chapel of the Madonna del Pianto is a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">298</a></span>
+curious wooden statue of the Pietà, how old and
+whether of the Italian or French school it is difficult
+to say. A tablet records that in 1494 because of the
+great dissensions in the town this Madonna was seen to
+weep, for which she has been much honoured, as is
+shown by the innumerable ex-votos hung by the faithful
+round her altar.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo316" id="illo316"></a>
+<img src="images/illus316.jpg" width="400" height="401" alt="THE DOME AND APSE OF SAN RUFINO FROM THE CANON&#39;S GARDEN"  />
+<p class="caption">THE DOME AND APSE OF SAN RUFINO FROM THE CANON&#39;S GARDEN</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The marble statue of St. Francis is by the French
+artist, M. Dupré (a replica in bronze stands in the
+Piazza), while that of St. Clare is by his daughter,
+who both generously gave their work to Assisi in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">299</a></span>
+1882. The statue of St. Rufino is by another
+Frenchman, M. Lemoyne.</p>
+
+<p>The proudest possession of San Rufino is the font in
+which St. Francis, St. Clare, St. Agnes and Frederick
+II, were baptised, and the stone is shown upon which
+the angel knelt, who in the disguise of a pilgrim
+assisted at the baptism of Assisi's saint. Often did
+Francis come to San Rufino to preach when the small
+church of S. Giorgio could no longer hold the
+crowds who flocked to hear him, and the hut where
+the saint spent his nights in prayer and meditation
+before he preached in the cathedral is now a chapel.
+This was the place of the miracle when his companions
+at Rivo-Torto saw him descend towards them in a
+chariot of fire (see p. <a href="#Page_238">238</a>). In the time of the saint
+it was the cottage of a market-gardener and still stands
+amidst a vineyard, one of the prettiest and sunniest
+spots in the town, where vines, onions, wild flowers
+and cherry trees grow in happy confusion, and birds
+and peasants sing all day long.</p>
+
+<p>The charm of the Cathedral is best realised after
+witnessing one of its many ceremonies, when the canons
+in crimson and purple, processions of scarlet clothed
+boys swinging censers, and the Bishop seated beneath
+a canopy of yellow damask his cope drawn stiffly to
+the ground by a fussing acolyte, recall some of the
+magnificence of the middle ages. The young priests
+bow low before the Bishop on their way to the altar,
+return to their seats and bow again; incense fills the
+church; the organ peals half drown the tenor's
+song, and through it all, from the stalls, drone the
+voices of the canons reciting their office. It is a
+gorgeous service but without a congregation, for even
+the beggars have not stolen in; and Niccolò's Madonna
+looks out upon the scene with big soft eyes which
+seem to follow us into the darkest corners of the aisles.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">300</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">Roman Assisi.</span></p>
+
+<p>Assisi is so much a place of one idea&mdash;of one interest&mdash;around
+which everything has grown, that it is difficult
+to remember that a fairly important town existed
+in Roman times, and that the Roman buildings, still to
+be seen are, in the opinion of Mr Freeman, worth a
+visit even if the church of San Francesco had never
+arisen. Some pleasant hours may be passed finding
+the sites of pagan monuments, the remains of ancient
+walls, and tracing the outline of the original town. In
+every case we see how Roman Assisi has, in a very
+marked way, become part of Mediæval Assisi, palaces
+having been erected upon the foundations of Roman
+houses and Christian churches upon the sites of ancient
+temples. The Temple of Hercules stood at the bend
+of Via S. Quirico (now Via Garibaldi) where it turns
+up to the ancient palace of the Scifi; while the Porta
+Mojano, near which old walls and part of an aqueduct
+can be seen, took its name from a temple of Janus
+which stood between it and the Vescovado. Standing
+a little off the Piazza Nuova, in a part of the town
+known as the "Gorga," are the remains of the amphitheatre.
+It would be difficult to find much of the
+original edifice, but houses having been built exactly
+on the ancient site its shape has been preserved, and this
+strange medley of old and new was thought worthy of a
+doric entrance gate by Galeazzo Alessi. Much the
+same thing has happened with many of the castles in
+the country near Assisi, where the peasant houses are
+grouped round them in such a way that only by penetrating
+into the midst of a tangled mass of dwellings
+can the vestige of a tower be here and there discerned
+to remind us of its former state. Assisi, though of no
+military importance at that time, aspired to become a
+little Roman town even more perfect than her neighbours
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">301</a></span>
+on the hills. The broad and strongly built drain
+which extends from near the Porta Perlici beneath the
+Piazza Nuova to the garden behind San Rufino, is
+said to have been used to carry off the water from the
+amphitheatre after the mimic sea-fights which in
+Roman times were so popular. A use was found for
+all things, and in time of war a Roman drain proved
+a most efficient means of escape, especially when the
+Baglioni were raiding the town and putting to death
+all they met upon their road.</p>
+
+<p>Some small remains of a Roman theatre are to be
+seen near the cathedral but so buried amidst a wild
+garden that it is difficult to form any just idea of its
+extent. The most splendid piece of masonry, a
+Roman cistern, lies beneath the campanile of the
+cathedral and can be easily looked into by the light of
+a torch, the sacristan even suggests a descent into its
+dark depths by means of a rickety ladder. An inscription
+recording the proud fact that Assisi possessed an
+amphitheatre has been removed to the cathedral where
+it is placed above the side entrance to the left. Other
+large portions of Roman walls are to be found at the
+back of a shop in the Via Portica and also in the Via
+San Paolo; both are marked upon the map. In those
+days the town seems to have been identical with what
+we now call old Assisi, namely the quarter round San
+Rufino extending to the portion round San Francescuccio
+where are noticed the arched Lombard
+windows.</p>
+
+<p>But by far the most interesting record of this early
+age is the Temple of Minerva, which in spite of the
+damage done when it was turned into a church, and
+the way in which the mediæval buildings are crowded
+round it, yet remains one of the most beautiful of
+ancient monuments. The raising of the Piazza makes
+it difficult to realise, without going below ground, how
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">302</a></span>
+imposing the temple must have been when its steps led
+straight down to the Forum. This can be reached by
+descending from the Piazza into the "scavi," or excavations,
+where stands the great altar with drains for
+the blood of the victims; the long inscription giving
+the name of the donor of the Temple runs:</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">GAL. TETTIENVS PARDALAS ET TETTIENA GALENE
+TETTRASTILVM SVA PECVNIA FECERVNT, ITEM SIMVLACRA
+CASTORIS ET POLLVCIS. MVNICIPIBVS ASISINATIBVS DONO
+DEDER. ET DEDICATIONE EPVLVM DECVRIONIBVS SING. XV.
+SEVIR. XIII. PLEBI X. DEDERVNT. S.C.L.D.</span></p>
+
+<p>It is well known that Goethe went to Assisi solely
+to see the Temple, and surprised the citizens by going
+straight down the hill again without stopping to visit
+San Francesco. He wished to keep unimpaired the
+impression this perfect piece of classical architecture
+had made upon his mind, and we cannot refrain from
+translating his enthusiastic description of it for these
+pages.</p>
+
+<p>"From Palladio and Volkmann I had gathered
+that a beautiful temple of Minerva, of the time of
+Augustus, was still standing and perfectly preserved.
+Asking a good-looking youth where Maria della
+Minerva was, he led me up through the city which
+stands on a hill. At length we reached the oldest
+part of the town, and I beheld the noble building
+standing before me, the first complete monument of
+ancient days that I had seen. A modest temple as
+befitted so small a town, yet so perfect, so finely conceived,
+that its beauty would strike one anywhere.
+But above all its position! Since reading in Vitruvius
+and Palladio how cities ought to be built and temples
+and other public edifices situated, I have a great respect
+for these things.... The temple stands half way up
+the mountain, just where two hills meet together, on
+a piazza which to this day is called the Piazza....
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">303</a></span>
+In old times there were probably no houses opposite
+to prevent the view. Abolish them in imagination,
+and one would look towards the south over a most
+fertile land, whilst the sanctuary of Minerva would be
+visible from everywhere. Probably the plan of the
+streets dates from long ago as they follow the conformation
+and sinuosities of the mountain. The temple
+is not in the centre of the Piazza, but is so placed that
+a striking, though fore-shortened, view of it is obtained
+by the traveller coming from Rome. Not only should
+the building itself be drawn but also its fine position.
+I could not gaze my full of the façade; how harmonious
+and genial is the conception of the artist.... Unwillingly
+I tore myself away, and determined to draw
+the attention of all architects to it so that correct
+drawings may be made; for once again have I been
+convinced that tradition is untrustworthy. Palladio,
+on whom I relied, gives us, it is true, a picture of this
+temple, but he cannot have seen it, as he actually places
+pedestals on the level whereby the columns are thrown
+up too high, and we have an ugly Palmyrian monstrosity
+instead of what is a tranquil, charming object,
+satisfying to both the eye and the understanding. It
+is impossible to describe the deep impression I received
+from the contemplation of this edifice, and it will
+produce everlasting fruit."<a name="FNanchor_104" id="FNanchor_104" href="#Footnote_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a></p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">S. Paolo</span><a name="FNanchor_105" id="FNanchor_105" href="#Footnote_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a></p>
+
+<p>A little off the Piazza della Minerva is the old
+Benedictine church dedicated to St. Paolo, erected in
+1074, when it probably stood alone with its monastery
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">304</a></span>
+and not, as now, wedged in with other houses. Built
+in the very heart of Roman Assisi, its foundations rest
+upon solid walls of travertine, where a secret passage
+reaches to the castle. In this part of the town there
+are several underground passages spreading out in
+various directions, reminding us of the insecurity of
+life in the early times when Pagan consuls persecuted
+the weaker Christian sect. Just within the doorway
+of the church, now alas thickly coated with whitewash,
+is an ionic column belonging to some building of
+importance which must have stood within the Forum.
+Few people visit S. Paolo as it is only mentioned in
+local guide-books, and the passing stranger is generally
+told that there is nothing to see which is borne out by
+the modesty of its exterior; but no lover of the early
+Umbrian school who has the time to spare should fail
+to step in, if only for a moment, as on a wall to the
+left of the entrance is a large fresco by Matteo da
+Gualdo. He has signed the date in the corner&mdash;1475&mdash;though
+not his name, but it would be difficult to
+mistake so characteristic a work of this delightful
+painter. The Virgin, tall and stately, is accompanied
+by St. Lucy, who holds her eyes upon a dish and is
+clothed in a richly coloured orange gown falling in
+heavy folds about her; on the other side is St. Ansano,
+the patron of the Sienese, looking in his elegant green
+jacket, trimmed with fur, more like a courtier than a
+holy martyr. He holds his lungs in one hand, because
+he is a patron of people suffering from consumption,
+but why we know not, as there was nothing in the way
+he met his death in the river Arbia by the order of
+Diocletian to explain the presence of this strange
+symbol. He stands in Matteo's fresco very daintily
+by the Madonna's side, pointing her out to the small
+donor who is seen kneeling in a doorway. The colour
+is deep, perhaps a little crude, and if the figures may
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">305</a></span>
+seem somewhat stiff and their draperies angular, all such
+defects are amply redeemed by the small angels on
+the arch above, who composedly gaze down upon the
+Madonna as they sing and play to her.</p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">Palazzo Pubblico or Palazzo Communale</span></p>
+
+<p>In the beginning of the thirteenth century the civil
+affairs of Assisi had assumed such large proportions
+that it was found impossible to transact business in
+unsheltered quarters of the piazza as had hitherto been
+done, and the citizens determined to build a Palazzo
+Pubblico. Other towns were rising to municipal importance,
+notably Perugia whose palace for her priors
+proved a beautiful example of a gothic building,
+while Assisi was directing all efforts to adorn her
+churches. A house was bought belonging to the same
+Benedictine abbot of Mount Subasio, who had given
+the humble dwellings to St. Francis, and on its site
+they erected the present municipal palace, which was
+enlarged in 1275 and again in the fifteenth century,
+but it always remained a humble building with little
+pretensions to fine architecture. Here the priors and
+the consuls ruled the citizens in the absence of a
+despot, while in the palace of the Capitano del Popolo
+(now the residence of the Carabinieri), whose tower
+dates from 1276, the council of the citizens met to
+check the tyranny of the governing faction. These
+municipal magnates lived upon opposite sides of
+the Piazza, and acted as a drag upon each
+other in civil matters. The many small towns,
+villages and castles which were beneath the yoke
+of Assisi in mediæval times have been represented
+by a modern artist in the entrance hall of the Palazzo
+Pubblico, and are a happy record of her days of conquest
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">306</a></span>
+and prosperity, which are duly remembered by
+the citizens. There is also a picture by Sermei of St.
+Francis blessing Assisi from the plain which, painted
+in the sixteenth century, is interesting as a likeness of
+the town at that time. There is also a picture of
+Elias hung upon the wall, intended as a portrait and
+not as an object for popular devotion. An effort has
+been made to adapt one of the rooms as a gallery of
+Umbrian art, and a few frescoes taken from walls and
+convents and transferred to canvas are preserved here,
+giving some idea, notwithstanding their ruined condition,
+of the liberal way in which Umbrian artists distributed
+their work in every corner of the town. The
+gateway of S. Giacomo exposed to constant sun,
+wind and rain, was yet thought a fitting place for
+Fiorenzo di Lorenzo to paint a fresco of a beautiful
+Madonna. It now looks sadly out of place in this room
+of the Municipio with a little paper ticket on the
+corner of the canvas marking it as No. 17. The
+half figures of angels, No. 23 and No. 24, by Matteo
+da Gualdo, were taken from the Confraternity of S.
+Crispino together with No. 21. From the Chiesa
+dei Pellegrini came No. 5, the Madonna and Saints by
+Ottaviano Nelli of Gubbio; while No. 6, a Madonna,
+with angels holding a red damask curtain behind her,
+was found at the fountain of Mojano and is attributed
+to Tiberio d'Assisi. That mysterious painter L'Ingegno
+d'Assisi may be the author of No. 12. Vasari recounts
+how he learnt his art in the workshop of Perugino in
+company with Raphael, and even helped his master in
+the Cambio frescoes. His real name was Andrea Aloisi,
+the nickname of Ingegno arising from the fact that
+he was looked up to by his fellow citizens as a very
+remarkable man, for not only could he paint beautiful
+Madonnas but he was a distinguished Procurator,
+Arbitrator, Syndic and Camerlingo Apostolico. But
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">307</a></span>
+to try and trace his work is like following a will-o'-the-wisp,
+for no sooner do we hear of a fresco by
+him than it eventually turns out to be by Fiorenzo
+di Lorenzo or by Adone Doni, and this fresco in
+the Municipio is the only one in Assisi which may be
+by him. If it is, Tiberio d'Assisi would seem to
+have been his master and not Perugino.</p>
+
+<p>In the same room is a small but interesting painting
+in fresco (No. 87), the figure of a winged Mercury,
+which was excavated a few years ago in the Casa
+Rocchi, via Cristofani. In another room is the head
+of a saint which some believe to be also of Roman
+times, but a good authority attributes it to a late
+follower of Raphael. The saint's head is seen against
+a shadowy blue landscape, and like all Umbrian things
+has an indescribable charm, a feeling that the artist
+loved the valleys in spring-time, and tried to convey
+some of the soft colour of the young corn and budding
+trees into the picture he was painting.</p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">The Chiesa Nuova</span></p>
+
+<p>A little below the Piazza della Minerva is the
+Chiesa Nuova, built at the expense of Philip III, of
+Spain in 1615 by the Assisan artist Giorgetti and
+finished in seven years. Few people come to Assisi
+without visiting it, for although containing nothing
+of artistic value, it stands upon the site of the Casa
+Bernardone, and recalls many incidents of St. Francis'
+life. The small door is shown through which Madonna
+Pica passed when the angel disguised as a pilgrim
+told her that her son was to be born in a stable, and
+we see part of the cell where St. Francis endured such
+cruel imprisonment from his father, until his mother in
+the absence of Messer Pietro let him out to return
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">308</a></span>
+to his haunts at San Damiano and the Carceri.<a name="FNanchor_106" id="FNanchor_106" href="#Footnote_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a> Other
+places preserve more of the charm of the saint than
+the Chiesa Nuova.</p>
+
+<p>Two buildings in the town are intimately connected
+with St. Francis, his father's shop in the Via Portica
+the entrance of which the sculptor of St. Bernardino's
+door at the franciscan convent has adorned with a
+beautiful pattern of flowers, shields and cupids; and
+the house of Bernard of Quintavalle which is reached
+from this street by the Via S. Gregorio. It is now
+the Palazzo Sbaraglini and has no doubt been much
+enlarged since the thirteenth century, but the little old
+door above a flight of steps bears the unmistakable stamp
+of age; it leads into a long vaulted room, now a chapel,
+which there seems every reason to believe was the
+one where Bernard, the rich noble, invited St. Francis
+to stay with him at a time when he doubted his
+sanctity. The story is too long to quote and extracts
+would only spoil it, but the pilgrim to Assisi
+should read it as related in that franciscan testament,
+the <i>Fioretti</i> (chap. iii.). Popular devotion has
+happily not tampered with this corner of the town as
+it has with the house of the Bernardone.</p>
+
+<div class="figright"><a name="illo327" id="illo327"></a>
+<img src="images/illus327.jpg" width="280" height="450" alt="CAMPANILE OF STA. MARIA MAGGIORE"  />
+<p class="caption">CAMPANILE OF STA. MARIA MAGGIORE</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">Sta. Maria Maggiore</span></p>
+
+<p>This romanesque church stands above a Roman
+building whose columns and mosaic floor can easily be
+seen from the garden behind the apse, and for many
+centuries it was the cathedral of Assisi as is testified by
+its close proximity to the Bishop's palace. But there is
+now little to remind us of any pretensions to splendour
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">309</a></span>
+which it may once have possessed, only vestiges
+of the frescoes destroyed by the great earthquake of
+1832 can be seen on its walls, and an Annunciation
+in a cupboard of the
+sacristy&mdash;in such
+strange places do we
+find an ancient fresco
+in Assisi. The church
+was already an old
+building in the twelfth
+century, for we hear
+of its being restored
+and enlarged after a
+fire by Giovanni da
+Gubbio, and finished
+later by the help of St.
+Francis who is said
+to have rebuilt the
+apse. One gladly
+hurries out of it into
+the little piazza which,
+though the humblest
+looking in Assisi, is
+very famous for the
+scenes it has witnessed.
+Here St. Francis renounced
+the world in
+the presence of his
+angry father, and received
+protection from
+Bishop Guido; (see p.
+<a href="#Page_235">235</a>). Many years later the dying saint was brought to
+rest at the Bishop's palace near the church, and edified
+those who guarded the gates by singing so gaily in the
+midst of terrible suffering. Then again when a quarrel
+arose between Guido and the Podestà of Assisi, two
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">310</a></span>
+friars came up with a message of peace from St. Francis,
+then on his deathbed at the Portiuncula, who had heard
+with grief of the dissension. The story, and it is a true
+one we may be sure, has been faithfully recorded by
+Brother Leo, who tells us how "when all were assembled
+together in the piazza by the Bishop's palace
+the two brethren rose up and said: "The blessed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">311</a></span>
+Francis in his illness has composed a canticle to the
+Lord concerning His creatures, to the praise of the
+Lord Himself and for the edification of the people."
+It was the verse beginning "Praised be my Lord for
+all those who pardon one another for His love's sake,"
+which he had added to his Hymn to the Sun (see p.
+<a href="#Page_79">79</a>). All listened intently to the message which so
+touched the heart of the Podestà that he flung himself
+at the Bishop's feet and promised to make amends for
+his offence for the love of Christ and the Blessed
+Francis. The Bishop lifting him from the ground
+spoke words of forgiveness and peace, and then "with
+great kindness and love they embraced and kissed one
+another."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo328" id="illo328"></a>
+<img src="images/illus328.jpg" width="450" height="567" alt="EAST FRONT OF SAN FRANCESCO"  />
+<p class="caption">EAST FRONT OF SAN FRANCESCO</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">Convents of S. Quirico and S. Appolinare</span></p>
+
+<p>Every church and convent wall in Assisi was once
+adorned by frescoes, and even now, when time and ill-usage
+have done their best to ruin them, it is still
+possible to come upon delightful specimens of Umbrian
+art. But they are so stowed away in out of the way
+corners that one hardly likes to pass a door, however
+poor and uninviting, without glancing in to see what
+treasure may be hidden away behind it.</p>
+
+<p>Curiosity was amply rewarded one day while visiting
+the convent of S. Quirico which we pass on the way
+from Sta. Maria Maggiore to S. Pietro, attracted there
+by the small fresco of the Virgin and St. Anne by
+Matteo da Gualdo over the door. The whitewashed
+parlour contained nothing of interest, not even a nun
+peered through the iron grating, but a murmur from the
+attendant about frescoes drew us to a window where,
+above the brown-tiled roof under a rough pent ledge,
+exposed to rain and wind, was a fresco of Christ rising
+from the tomb, and four small angels. It is not perhaps
+one of Matteo da Gualdo's most pleasing compositions
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">312</a></span>
+and might be passed unnoticed in a gallery,
+but the thought of the wealth of Umbrian art, when
+masters left their paintings over gateways upon city
+walls, and above a roof where even the nuns can
+scarcely see it as they walk in the cloister below, give
+it a peculiarly Assisan charm which we cannot easily
+forget. A few steps further on, down the Borgo San
+Pietro, is the large convent of S. Appolinare, remarkable
+for its pretty campanile of brick, and a wheel
+window above the door. It once possessed many
+frescoes of the fourteenth and fifteenth century, but
+now it is not worth while to seek admittance for they
+are much destroyed; some have been ruthlessly cut in
+two by lowering the ceiling of the rooms, and only
+here and there, where the whitewash has peeled off,
+faces of Madonnas and saints look out like ghosts imprisoned
+in a convent wall.</p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">S. Pietro</span></p>
+
+<p>The church of S. Pietro stands upon a grass
+piazza surrounded by mulberry trees, with a broad
+outlook upon the valley. The central door, supported
+by two lions, has a twisted design of water-plants
+and birds which formerly were coloured, but
+now only show here and there traces of green stalks
+on a dark red background. A finely carved inscription
+above it records that in the year 1218 the cistercian
+Abbot Rustico built the façade, but its proud historians
+believe the church itself to have existed in the second
+century, thus claiming for it the honour of being the
+first church erected in Assisi. The present building
+cannot be older than 1253 when it was rebuilt after a
+great fire, and consecrated by Innocent IV. The interior
+is finely proportioned, and the remains of ancient
+frescoes discovered upon the walls show the zeal of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">313</a></span>
+the Assisans in making all their churches, as well as
+San Francesco, as beautiful as they could.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo331" id="illo331"></a>
+<img src="images/illus331.jpg" width="450" height="329" alt="CHURCH OF S. PIETRO"  />
+<p class="caption">CHURCH OF S. PIETRO</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the small chapel to the left of the high altar are
+four stencilled medallions of a hunter with his dogs
+chasing a stag, besides symmetrical patterns like those
+of the nave of the Lower Church of San Francesco.
+Over the altar is a signed picture by Matteo da Gualdo
+(he was at Assisi in 1458, but the date here is partly
+effaced), of a Madonna with a choir of angels, and
+upon either side St. Peter and the Assisan martyr St.
+Vittorino. By standing on the altar steps a fresco
+of the Annunciation of the fifteenth century may be
+seen on the wall of the sacristy, discovered beneath the
+usual layer of whitewash some fifty years ago. The
+angel's profile, the hair turned back in waves from the
+face over the shoulders, is clearly outlined, and shows
+pale against the golden light of his wings. But the
+real treasures of this church, according to a pious
+author, are the bones of St. Vittorino, an Assisan
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">314</a></span>
+Christian who was the second Bishop of Assisi, and
+died a martyr's death in the third century. In 1642
+these relics were deposited in a more suitable marble
+urn than the one that had contained them before, during
+a grand ceremony presided over by a Baglioni, Bishop
+of Perugia. Other bones and ashes of some Roman
+martyrs were afterwards added which were taken
+from the cemetery at Rome by the Abbot of San
+Pietro "to further enrich his church."</p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">The Confraternities</span></p>
+
+<p>An enduring mark of St. Francis' influence is seen
+in the number of confraternities established in Assisi
+which, if they have lost many of their primitive customs,
+still retain a hold upon the people and are the
+great feature of the town. Hardly a day passes without
+seeing members either preparing for a service in
+one of their chapels, or following a church procession,
+or carrying the dead along the cypress walk from Porta
+S. Giacomo to the cemetery. Clothed in long grey
+hooded cloaks, holding lanterns and candles and singing
+their mediæval hymns, these citizens of the nineteenth
+century belong to Assisi of the past as much as
+all her frescoes and early buildings. Their origin goes
+back to the middle of the thirteenth century when, out
+of the great devotional movement due to St. Francis,
+arose that strange body of penitents the Flagellants,
+who are said to have first appeared in Perugia, and
+thence spread throughout Italy.<a name="FNanchor_107" id="FNanchor_107" href="#Footnote_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> "The movement,"
+says Dr Creighton, "passed away; but it left its dress
+as a distinctive badge to the confraternities of mercy
+which are familiar to the traveller in the streets of
+many cities of Italy." Assisi was among the first to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">315</a></span>
+witness the hordes of fanatics who roamed from town
+to town increasing as they passed like a swarm of locusts
+through the land, and often at night going forth into
+the streets clothed in white garments to dance a dance
+of the dead, clanging bones together as they sang. It
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">316</a></span>
+was inevitable that their passage through Assisi should
+have its results, and many brotherhoods were founded;
+those who had no chapels of their own met in S. Pietro
+or S. Maria delle Rose, where they performed their
+penances, sometimes, as in the case of the Battuti (Flagellants),
+beating themselves as they sang the wild, love-inspired
+hymns of Jacopone da Todi, the franciscan
+poet of Umbria. Since those days their fervour has
+taken a more practical form, and very simple are their
+services.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo333" id="illo333"></a>
+<img src="images/illus333.jpg" width="450" height="590" alt="CONFRATERNITY OF SAN FRANCESCUCCIO IN VIA GARIBALDI"  />
+<p class="caption">CONFRATERNITY OF SAN FRANCESCUCCIO IN VIA GARIBALDI</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The members of <i>San Francescuccio</i>, or <i>Delle Stimate</i>,
+ever to and fro upon some errand of mercy, belong
+to the most important confraternity, and own one of
+the most picturesque chapels in the towns. When its
+doors are open during early Mass or Benediction the
+sound of prayer and chanting comes across the quiet
+road, and in the blaze of candle-light is seen the great
+Crucifixion of Ottaviano Nelli (?) in the lunette of the
+wall above the altar. At other times, the chapel being
+so sunk below the level of the road with no windows
+to light it, both fresco and the charming groined roof,
+blue as that of San Francesco, can with difficulty be
+seen. The pent roof outside overshadows some Umbrian
+frescoes by Matteo da Gualdo recording the famous
+miracle of the roses which flowered for St. Francis in
+the snow, and which he offered to the Virgin at the Altar
+of the Portiuncula. On the wall to the right are some
+ruined frescoes in terra-verde by a scholar of Matteo.</p>
+
+<p>Another confraternity in this street is <i>San Crispino</i>,
+which once possessed a picture by Niccolò Alunno,
+but that has long since disappeared, and only faint
+patches of colour remain above its gateway. There are
+many other confraternities, but as they do not all
+possess pictures of interest, we only mention three
+others; and first of these, the <i>Oratory of St. Anthony
+the Abbot</i>, or <i>Chiesa dei Pellegrini</i>, which every visitor
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">317</a></span>
+to Assisi ought to visit.<a name="FNanchor_108" id="FNanchor_108" href="#Footnote_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a> After the Church of San
+Francesco it is by far the most important sight of the
+town; a Lombard façade, a Roman temple, or a
+mediæval castle, delightful and beautiful as they are,
+may be seen elsewhere, but we know nothing with
+such individual charm as the little chapel of St.
+Anthony, in the Via Superba. So often a hundred
+vicissitudes arrested the adornment of a building during
+those troubled times of the middle ages, but here
+we find a small and perfectly proportioned oratory
+decorated with frescoes upon the ceiling and upon
+every wall, by two Umbrian masters who have
+sought to make it a complete and perfect sanctuary
+of Umbrian art.</p>
+
+<p>Built in 1431 by the piety of the brotherhood of
+St. Anthony the Abbot, it served as a private chapel
+to the adjoining hospital, where pilgrims coming to
+pray at the shrine of St. Francis found food and
+shelter for three days. The liberal donations given
+by Guidantonio, Duke of Urbino and sometime
+Lord of Assisi, whose devotion to the saint was
+great, may have enabled the confraternity to adorn
+it with its many frescoes. Outside, in the arched
+niche above the door, are the patrons of the chapel,
+St. Anthony and St. James of Campostello, that
+great saint of pilgrims, with a frieze of small angels
+above them playing upon various instruments, also
+by Matteo da Gualdo. To him we owe the fair
+Madonna over the altar who gazes so dreamily before
+her, and sits so straight upon her throne. Angels
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">318</a></span>
+gather round bending towards their instruments with
+earnest faces; Matteo's angels can never only calmly
+pray, they must sing or else play on tambourines,
+viole d'amore, cymbals and organs. Less pleasing
+are the large figures of St. James and St. Anthony,
+while in contrast to them are the slender winged
+figures on either side bearing tall candelabra, and
+moving forward with such stately step, their white
+garments sweeping in long folds behind them, their
+fair curls just ruffled by the air. Surely Matteo must
+have been thinking of a group of babies at play in the
+cornfields, or under the hedges near his own Umbrian
+town, when he painted that frieze of laughing children,
+with little caps fitting so closely round their heads,
+who are tossing the branches of red and white roses
+up into the air. Each one is different, and all are full
+of graceful movement. They divide the frescoes
+below from that of the Annunciation, which recalls
+the manner of Boccatis da Camerino, the master of
+Matteo. He paints a swallow, the bird of returning
+spring, perched outside the Virgin's bedroom, to
+symbolise the promise of redemption, and a lion cub
+meant to represent the lion of Judah walks leisurely
+towards the Madonna.</p>
+
+<p>Matteo da Gualdo, as the inscription tells, worked
+here in 1468, and Pier Antonio da Foligno, known as
+Mezzastris, came in 1482 to paint the rest of the chapel,
+and upon the right wall he related the most famous of
+St. James' miracles in a naïve and delightful manner.
+The legends tell how in the time of Pope Calixtus II,
+a certain German with his wife and son on their way
+to the saint's Spanish shrine of Campostello lodged at
+Tolosa, where their host's daughter fell in love with
+the fair young German. But he, being a cautious
+youth, resisted every advance of the Spanish maiden,
+who sought to avenge herself by hiding a silver drinking
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">319</a></span>
+cup belonging to her father in his wallet. The
+theft was discovered, and the judge of Tolosa condemned
+the young pilgrim to be hanged. Pier Antonio
+has painted the scene when the father and mother, after
+visiting Campostello, return to take a last look at the
+place where their son was executed and find him well:
+"O my mother! O my father!" he says, "do not
+lament for me, as I have never been in better cheer,
+the blessed Apostle James is at my side, sustaining me
+and filling me with celestial joy and comfort." In
+the fresco near the altar the story is continued; the
+judge, stout and imposing as one of Benozzo Gozzoli's
+Florentine merchants, is seated at a table in crimson
+and ermine robes surrounded by his friends, when the
+pilgrim and his wife arrive and beg him to release
+their son. Somewhat bored at being interrupted at his
+banquet he mocks them, saying: "What meanest thou,
+good woman? Thou art beside thyself. If thy son
+lives so do these fowls before me." No sooner had
+he spoken than, to the astonishment of all, the cock
+and hen stood up on the dish and the cock began to crow,
+as we see in Mezzastris' fresco. On the opposite wall
+are miracles of St. Anthony. In the fresco near the door
+he is sitting in the porch of the church surrounded by
+his companion hermits; they are watching the arrival
+of camels which, in answer to the saint's prayer, have
+brought a supply of food neatly corded on their backs.
+The artist has pictured the desert with sandy mountains,
+little flowers growing in the burning sand and thick
+grass in the wood by the convent. In the second
+fresco St. Anthony, beneath a portico of lapis lazzuli
+and green serpentine, is distributing the food brought
+by the friendly camels, to the beggars, who appear as
+suddenly upon the scene as the beggars do in an Assisan
+street.</p>
+
+<p>The four figures in the ceiling, Pope Leo III, St.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">320</a></span>
+Bonaventure, St. Isidor of Seville and St. Augustine,
+and the angels with shield-shaped wings, are also by
+Mezzastris. A graceful piece of his work is the
+Christ above the door, in a glory of angels who form
+a wreath around Him with their wings like sheaves
+of yellow wheat. Delightful, but very different from
+Matteo's, are the cupid-angels flying across the sky on
+clouds, and the two seated playing with a shield upon
+which is painted the pilgrim's scallop-shell.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo338" id="illo338"></a>
+<img src="images/illus338.jpg" width="450" height="351" alt="MONTE FRUMENTARIO IN THE VIA PRINCIPE DI NAPOLI"  />
+<p class="caption">MONTE FRUMENTARIO IN THE VIA PRINCIPE DI NAPOLI</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The figure of St. James near the door is of small
+interest, being a much restored work of a pupil of
+Perugino; but in the dark corner on the other side is,
+says Mr Berenson, a youthful work of Fiorenzo di
+Lorenzo. It is the young St. Ansano holding his
+lungs suspended daintily from one finger as in the
+fresco of S. Paolo, and looking so charming in his page's
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">321</a></span>
+dress, his fair curls falling about his shoulders. He
+stands at the entrance of a cave with pointed rocks
+above, and saxifrage and ferns delicately drawn are
+growing in their crevices. Would that Mezzastris
+had given his pupil a larger space of wall to work on,
+so that we might have had more saints and landscapes
+like these. We leave the chapel with regret, giving
+one last look at Matteo's Madonna and his frieze of
+child-angels, and then go out into the long broad
+Via Principe di Napole. Its fine palaces, once the
+abode of some of the richest nobles of the town, have
+now been turned into schools and hospitals, and our
+thoughts once more revert to the past days of prosperity
+and magnificence as we walk along this grand but
+silent street where the grass grows unmolested between
+the stones. A little way further on to the right is the
+fine <i>loggia</i> of the <i>Monte Frumentario</i> which in olden
+times was an agricultural Monte di Pietà, where
+the peasants who had no other possessions than the
+produce of the fields would come to pawn their grain
+in time of need. The door is finely sculptured, and
+the delicate chiselling of the capitals of the pillars of
+the <i>loggia</i> mark it as a work of the fourteenth century.
+Not far from the Chiesa dei Pellegrini, but to the left,
+stands one of the oldest Assisan houses which does
+not seem to have suffered much alteration since it was
+built. It was the lodge of the Comacine guild of
+workers, who have left their sign of the rose
+between the compass over the entrance, and two pieces
+of sculpture, showing that those to whom the house
+belonged were people who worked at some trade.
+It does not appear to have been a dwelling-house,
+but only a place where the members of the guild,
+employed in building the different civil and religious
+buildings for the Assisans, could meet together to discuss
+their interests, draw out their plans and execute
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">322</a></span>
+different pieces of their work. They probably did
+not build the house, but perhaps in the year 1485,
+which is the date above the door, adapted for their
+use one already standing.<a name="FNanchor_109" id="FNanchor_109" href="#Footnote_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a> It is always pointed out as
+the <i>Casa di Metastasio</i>, but his paternal dwelling is a
+less interesting house, standing
+at the angle of Via S. Giacomo
+and Via S. Croce, which can
+be reached from the Comacine
+Lodge by the steep by-street
+of S. Andrea. Metastasio,
+though the Trapassi were Assisans,
+had little to do with
+the town as his family were
+engaged in trade at Rome,
+where he was born in 1698.
+There he was found improvising
+songs to a crowd of
+wondering people by the celebrated
+Vincenzo Gravina, who
+adopted and educated him.
+When set to music, Metastasio's
+poetry brought all Rome
+to his feet and earned him the
+title of Cæsarean poet from the
+Emperor Charles VI; he ended
+his life at the court of Vienna
+as the favourite of Maria
+Theresa, honoured by all the
+great musicians of the day. Truly he has little to do
+with Assisi, yet he must be added to the list of her
+numerous illustrious citizens.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft"><a name="illo340" id="illo340"></a>
+<img src="images/illus340.jpg" width="172" height="300" alt="HOUSE OF THE COMACINE BUILDERS
+IN THE VIA PRINCIPE DI NAPOLE"  />
+<p class="caption">HOUSE OF THE COMACINE BUILDERS<br />
+IN THE VIA PRINCIPE DI NAPOLE</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Following the street by the Casa di Metastasio,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">323</a></span>
+we get into delightful lanes above the town and reach
+another little confraternity, the oldest of all, <i>San
+Rufinuccio</i>.<a name="FNanchor_110" id="FNanchor_110" href="#Footnote_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a> Its small chapel, built of alternate layers
+of pink and white Subasian stone, is a very characteristic
+example of an Umbrian way-side sanctuary, always open
+in the olden days for the peasants to come into for rest
+and prayer. It is worth a visit, not only because the
+way there is beautiful, but also for the grand Crucifixion
+painted above the altar by the decorator of St.
+Nicholas' Chapel in San Francesco. It is a strong
+and splendid composition, which even much repainting
+has been unable to destroy. Unfortunately the scenes
+at the sides can only just be seen. Below, the half-length
+Madonna and angels by another artist recall the
+Annunciation of S. Pietro, in the marked outline of
+their pale faces and the rainbow colour of clothes and
+wings.</p>
+
+<p>Turning off from the Via Nuova to the left we
+mount still higher through the olive groves along a path
+possessing no name, but which is the nicest way to the
+heights above the town. We come in a few minutes
+to the confraternity of <i>San Lorenzo</i>, standing somewhat
+below the level of the castle. It has nothing of
+interest inside, but behind the wooden covering of the
+gateway at the side is a fresco by an unknown Umbrian
+artist, an Assisan perhaps, who above the Virgin's
+throne signs himself "Chola Pictor." He paints the
+faces of his saints with a smooth surface, betraying
+the influence of Simone Martini which he felt together
+with many of his fellow Umbrian artists. The Virgin's
+throne is full of wonderful ornaments; unfortunately
+the fresco has suffered from a large crack across the
+wall. Very quaint is a group of hooded members of
+the confraternity at her feet, and there is a charming
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">324</a></span>
+figure of St. Rufino, young, with an oval face and
+brown eyes, but to be seen only from the top of a
+ladder as he is painted in a corner of the arch. It
+has been suggested to remove this much-ruined painting
+to the safer custody of the Municipio, but we hope
+this will not occur, for, taken away from its gateway
+on the hillside, where the redstarts build their nests
+and the evening sun lights up the colour in the Virgin's
+face, its interest and charm would be lost.</p>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">The Castle or "la Rocca d'Assisi"</span></p>
+
+<p>Within her city walls Assisi possesses nothing
+wilder or more beautiful than the undulating slopes
+which rise from the city up to the Castle, where
+wild orchises grow among the grass, and the hedges
+of acacia wind around the hill. The town lies
+so directly below, that by stepping to the edge and
+looking across the white acacias, we can only see
+a mass of brown roofs all purple at sundown, the
+tops of towers and the battlements of gateways.
+Then there are places where the grassy hillocks
+stand up so high that they hide the town altogether,
+and we seem to be looking out upon the broad vista
+of the valley from an isolated peak. At all times it
+is beautiful; but choose a stormy day in springtime,
+when the clouds are driving upwards from the plain
+only lately covered with mist, and the nearer hills
+are dark their cities catching the late evening sunshine
+as it breaks through the storm, while wind-swept
+Subasio looks bleak in the white light showing here
+and there patches of palest green. And behind us,
+cresting the hill, so near the town yet seen absolutely
+alone and clear against the sky, rise the tower
+and the vast walls of the Rocca d'Assisi, looking, not
+like a ruin crumbling beneath the constant driving
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">325</a></span>
+of wind and rain, but as though torn down in war-time,
+grand in its destruction. It stands upon the site
+of an ancient burial ground, where in remote times
+the Umbrian augurs came to watch for omens from
+the heights of a tower that is said to have crowned
+the summit. The legend of this building gave rise
+to the belief that a castle stood here in very early
+times which was taken by Totila when he besieged
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">326</a></span>
+Assisi. But it is more probable that when Charlemagne
+rebuilt the town in 733 after it had been
+destroyed by his army, he also erected a castle to
+enable the Papal emissaries to keep the people in
+subjection; or perhaps the citizens themselves may
+have wished to protect themselves more securely from
+passing armies (see p. <a href="#Page_16">16</a>). It ended by becoming,
+much to the displeasure of the people the residence of
+whoever held Assisi for the time, and in the twelfth
+century they experienced the despotic rule of Conrad
+of Suabia, who lived here with his young charge,
+Frederic II. When, by the superior power of the
+Pope, Conrad was driven out of Umbria, the citizens
+did their best to destroy the walls which had harboured
+a tyrant, and to avoid further tyranny they obtained an
+edict forbidding the erection of another fortress. But
+promises such as these were vain indeed, for when, in
+1367, escaping from the hated yoke of the Perugians
+Assisi welcomed Cardinal Albornoz in the Pope's
+name as her ruler, she lent a willing ear to his
+plans for rebuilding the castle. The people were
+well satisfied as they watched the improvements he
+made in the town, and two centuries had so dimmed
+the remembrances of Conrad's tyranny, that they
+gladly assisted him, little deeming that they were
+giving away their liberty. Albornoz, not slow to
+perceive what a valuable possession it would prove
+to the rulers of Assisi, spared neither money nor
+efforts to make it large and strong. By his orders
+the castle keep, which we see to this day, called
+the "maschio," and the squarely-set walls enclosing
+it were erected, and in a very few years the Rocca again
+rose proudly on its hill, warning the Umbrian people
+of its newly-found importance, and enticing passing
+<i>condottieri</i> to lay siege to a town that offered so fine
+a prize. Albornoz also rebuilt most of the city walls
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">327</a></span>
+which had been so battered during the Perugian wars;
+we can trace them from gateway to gateway encircling
+the city, and it is curious to see how in the upper
+portion near San Rufino large open spaces exist, as if
+in those active days when the Assisans had hopes of
+becoming powerful, they purposely set the walls far
+back to provide for a large and flourishing town. The
+feeling of arrested growth is one of the most mournful
+spectacles, and we half wonder if the great castle
+dominating the heights was not in part the cause of it.
+There was war enough at the time, inevitable among
+the restless factions of a people groping towards freedom
+and power, but here above the town was placed a
+fresh cause of dissension and struggle against perpetual
+bondage through varied tyrannies.</p>
+
+<p>Albornoz, in planning out the city walls, discovered
+that the part between Porta Cappuccini and Porta
+Perlici, where the hill descends towards the ravine,
+needed protection, so he built the strong fortress of San
+Antonio known as the Rocca Minore. It had a
+separate governor or Castellano, and though of minor
+importance, proved very efficient in repelling the attacks
+of besieging armies. The principal tower, though
+somewhat ruined, still looks very fine within its square
+enclosure of massive walls, now covered in places with
+heavy curtains of ivy, the home of countless birds. A
+pious Castellano in the fifteenth century left a fresco
+of the Crucifixion in the chapel with his portrait at
+the foot of the Cross, and as we look at it through the
+wooden gateway we are reminded of what otherwise
+from the deserted look of the place it is easy to forget,
+that people once lived and prayed at the Rocca as well
+as fought.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo343" id="illo343"></a>
+<img src="images/illus343.jpg" width="450" height="521" alt="LOOKING ACROSS THE ASSISAN ROOFS TOWARDS THE EAST"  />
+<p class="caption">LOOKING ACROSS THE ASSISAN ROOFS TOWARDS THE EAST</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Cardinal Albornoz left the castle in charge of two
+Assisan captains, but from 1376 an uninterrupted line
+of governors received their salaries from whoever was
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">328</a></span>
+master of Assisi at the time. Always chosen from
+other towns their privileges were quite distinct from
+those of the civil governors; but in the fifteenth century,
+owing to the weakness of the Priors, who failed
+to keep order among the lawless nobles of the town,
+their power increased. The Papal Legate then gave
+into the hands of the Castellano authority to issue edicts
+which the Priors had to obey, and in 1515 he was
+invested with the title of Podestà and Pretor of
+Assisi. But none of these governors seems to have
+misused their power over the town, probably because
+their rule was of too short a duration to carry out any
+ambitious scheme. And when the despot for the time
+being of Assisi came to stay, he took up his quarters
+in the castle, ruling governors, magistrates and people
+alike. In the time of the despot Broglia di Trino,
+we hear of the Priors wearily toiling up the steep
+ascent to place before him the acts they had passed in
+the municipal palace. He received them always in the
+open air, holding his councils either in the first enclosure
+by the well, or in the second by the castle keep, where
+many important conclusions were arrived at, and plans
+for the city's dominion laid out.</p>
+
+<p>So perfect is the harmony of the castle from wherever
+it is seen, that it is difficult to realise how many
+hands have formed it, how many times its walls have
+been battered down and rebuilt at different periods by
+popes, cardinals, and passing <i>condottieri</i>, who have nearly
+all left their arms upon its walls as a record of their
+munificence. After Albornoz had built the principal
+mass of fortifications little was done until 1458, when
+Jacopo Piccinino, the son of the great general, entered
+Assisi as master, and obtained immediate possession of
+the Rocca. His reign was short, but with the quick
+eye of a soldier he soon discovered the weakness of the
+western slope, and seeing that it might be carried by
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">329</a></span>
+assault from Porta San Giacomo, he laid the foundations
+of a polygonal tower and a long wall connecting
+it with the main building. The Comacine builders
+established in Assisi were employed and left their sign,
+the rose between the compass and the mason's square,
+upon its lower walls. But long before the work was half
+completed Piccinino sold the city to the Pope, and it
+was Æneas Piccolomini, Pius II, who, when he visited
+Assisi in 1459, ordered it to be brought to a termination;
+within a year the wall was raised to its full
+height, the tower received its battlements and the arms
+of the Piccolomini were placed above those of Piccinino.
+The covered gallery, running along the top of the wall
+from the castle, still leads the visitor to the giddy
+heights of the tower whence he obtains truly a bird's-eye
+view of all the country round, from Spoleto to
+Perugia, across range upon range of hills towards
+Tuscany, and from Bettona to the wild tract of
+mountainous country leading to Nocera, Gualdo and
+Gubbio.</p>
+
+<p>To recount the full history of the castle needs a
+book to itself, and would include not only the history
+of Assisi but almost of all Umbria.<a name="FNanchor_111" id="FNanchor_111" href="#Footnote_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a> The possession
+of the Rocco Maggiore entailed that of the Rocca
+Minore and gave undisputed sway over Assisi, so that
+the desperate efforts made to hold it can be understood.
+During the intervals when Papal authority was relaxed,
+we find the names of many famous people whose armies
+fought for this much contested prize. Biordo Michelotti,
+Count Guido of Montefeltro, the two Piccininos,
+Francesco Sforza and Gian Galeazzo Visconti, were
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">330</a></span>
+in succession its owners. Cosmo de' Medici obtained
+it from Pope Eugenius IV, in payment of a bad debt,
+and a Florentine governor ruled over it for a year. It
+even, together with the town of Assisi, became the
+property of Lucrezia Borgia, who received it from
+Alexander VI, as part of her dower on her marriage
+with Giovanni Sforza, Lord of Pesaro. Sometimes it
+happened that a private citizen of Perugia conceived
+the ambitious scheme of making himself master of the
+castle, and by fraud the Castellano would be enticed
+outside the gates and murdered with his family. But
+it always ended by Perugia, fearing the wrath of the
+Pope, or not liking one of their own citizens to gain so
+much power, sending an army to dislodge the tyrant,
+who soon lost his head. Sometimes criminals were
+kept imprisoned in the castle; we can still see the
+room in the keep where they scratched their names
+upon the wall, with many references to their horror of
+the place, and a roughly traced heart pierced with an
+arrow. Ordinary malefactors were shut up in a dark
+cell on the stairs. When their crimes merited death
+they were executed on the Piazza della Minerva, or if
+time pressed, the Castellano hanged them from the
+battlements of the fortress or threw them out of a
+window into the ravine below. The governors had a
+difficult and not a very peaceful time, for they had not
+only to guard against outside foes, but occasionally
+against a faction who attempted to get possession of
+the castle, and great on those occasions was the fight
+outside its walls. It was in vain that they took every
+precaution for the general safety, that a night guard
+walked up and down the Assisan streets playing his
+castanets to warn off all evil-doers, or that men-at-arms
+watched incessantly from the castle battlements. In
+the sixteenth century the castle became a prey to the
+rival families of the Nepis and the Fiumi who divided
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">331</a></span>
+Assisi between them. First it fell into the hands of
+Jacopo Fiumi and the Pope, Alexander VI, furious
+when he heard of this citizen's audacious act, wrote
+that "by love or by force" he would have his fortress
+back again; but Jacopo remained impervious to threats
+or promises and held out for another year, until the
+Priors fearing the anger of the Pope came to an agreement
+with him. Some thirty years later the Nepis
+obtained possession of it by treachery and violence,
+and it required all the astuteness of Malatesta Baglione,
+who was fighting for Clement VII, to dislodge them,
+while the Pope branded them and their adherents as
+"sons of iniquity" for having dared to wrest from
+the Papacy the castle of Assisi.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo350" id="illo350"></a>
+<img src="images/illus350.jpg" width="450" height="513" alt="VIEW OF SAN FRANCESCO FROM BENEATH THE CASTLE WALLS"  />
+<p class="caption">VIEW OF SAN FRANCESCO FROM BENEATH THE CASTLE WALLS</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>But the days of the great military importance of the
+Rocca were fast drawing to a close; Assisi, no longer
+oppressed by the nobles, harassed by the armies of
+Perugia, or alarmed by the coming of the despots
+whose power was on the wane all over Italy, lost her
+character of individuality as a fighting and turbulent
+city, and sank beneath the wise and beneficent government
+of the Papacy. With the arrival of Paul III,
+in 1535, the final blow was given to mediæval usages
+of war and scheming in Umbria. The great Farnese
+Pope was building his fortress at Perugia to finally
+crush that hitherto indomitable people, and fearing the
+Assisans might yet give trouble in the future to his
+legates as they had so often done in the past, he gave
+orders that the fortress should be repaired, and a bastion
+suitable for the more modern methods of warfare be
+built to the right of the castle keep. This is now
+the best preserved portion of the building. For some
+time a Castellano still remained in command of the
+castle but his title was purely a nominal one, and his
+chief duty seems to have consisted in guarding prisoners.
+Its political need having disappeared the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">332</a></span>
+popes thought less of their Assisan fortress, the one
+lately erected at Perugia being more efficient as a safeguard
+of their interests, and gradually its walls showed
+signs of decay, but no papal legates were sent to see to
+their repair. So terribly did it suffer during the years
+that followed the reign of Paul III, that in 1726 we
+read of the governor of the city sending an earnest
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">333</a></span>
+supplication to the Pope that "this strong and ancient
+castle of Assisi, which had always been the chief
+fortress of Umbria, should be saved from ruin." The
+Pope, he tells us in another letter, had already sent
+Count Aureli, the military governor of Umbria, to
+inspect it, who declared it was "one of the strongest
+and most splendid fortresses of the ecclesiastical states,
+and as fine as any he had seen in France or in Flanders,
+when as head page he had accompanied Louis XIV."
+In the same document there is mention also of beautiful
+paintings in the chief rooms, and of a miraculous
+Crucifixion in the chapel, but these decorations, needless
+to say, have long since disappeared. Entreaties
+were vainly sent to Rome; the castle was so utterly
+abandoned that its gates stood open for all to roam in
+and out as they pleased, pulling down the ancient arms
+of the popes, and vying with the storms to complete its
+ruin and destruction. Such was its strength that it
+endured the ill-treatment of seasons and of men, and
+people now alive remember in their youth to have seen
+it still roofed in and possessing much of its former
+magnificence. A little money might have restored it
+to its pristine state, but during those years of struggle
+for the Unity of Italy the general fever of excitement
+invaded the quiet town, and as if remembering all the
+tyrants their castle walls had harboured, and the skirmishes
+their ancestors had fought beneath them, the
+citizens continued its destruction with renewed vigour.
+It was no uncommon thing to see cartloads of stones
+being taken down the hill for the construction of some
+modern dwelling, or boys amusing themselves by throwing
+down portions of the walls, and trying who could
+succeed in making great blocks of masonry reach the
+bed of the torrent below. Luckily the government
+gave it over to the commune of Assisi in 1883 and
+they did something towards its repair, though within
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">334</a></span>
+certain limits, for a large sum would have been necessary
+to complete its restoration.</p>
+
+<p>But it still remains a very wonderful corner of Assisi,
+and delightful hours may be passed sitting in the castle
+keep and looking out of the large windows upon a
+land so strangely peaceful, with little cities gathered on
+the hills or lying by some river in the plain. We see the
+battered walls around us bearing traces of ancient warfare,
+and wonder at the power which made the mediæval
+turmoil so suddenly subside. In vain we scan the
+valley for the coming of a warlike cardinal with glittering
+horsemen in his rear, or look for Gian Paolo
+Baglione riding hastily through the town upon his
+swift black charger. The communal armies met for
+the last time by the Tiber many centuries ago; popes,
+emperors, <i>condottieri</i> and saints have passed like
+pageants across Umbria, and as if touched by a
+magician's wand have as suddenly vanished, leaving
+her cities with only the memories of an active and
+glorious past. Thus Assisi, with the rest of the
+smaller towns, gradually sank as a prosperous and
+governing city though decidedly not as a place of pilgrimage
+and prayer, into that deep sleep from which
+she has never again awakened.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">CHAPTER XI</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">335</a></span></p>
+<p class="center b175"><i>Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli.
+The Feast of the Pardon of
+St. Francis or "il Perdono
+d'Assisi"</i></p>
+
+<p><span class="dropcap">T</span>he sanctuary of the Portiuncula has, in its present
+surroundings, rightly been called a jewel within a
+casket&mdash;a casket indeed too large for so small a gem.
+But the great Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli was
+the best the Umbrians could procure for the object
+they loved best after their Basilica in the town, and
+the famous architects of the day were called in to
+build it.<a name="FNanchor_112" id="FNanchor_112" href="#Footnote_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a> A smaller shelter would have served the
+purpose in earlier times but the ever increasing flow
+of pilgrims who came in thousands for the "Perdono"
+rendered it necessary to think about a church large
+enough to contain them; and it was the dominican
+Pope Pius V, who enabled the work to be commenced
+in 1569, giving large sums to the vast enterprise.
+Jacopo Barozio da Vignola gave the ground-plan,
+leaving the execution of it, at his death in 1573, to
+be carried out by the well-known Perugian architect and
+sculptor, Giulio Danti, and his fellow-citizen Galeazzo
+Alessi, who designed the fine cupola and arches.
+The church was built in the doric style, divided
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">336</a></span>
+into nave and aisles with numberless side chapels;
+and certainly they succeeded in giving it a great
+feeling of space and loftiness, which if less charming
+than the mysterious gloom of other churches yet seems
+to belong better to the open and sunlit Umbrian plain,
+where it rises as a beacon to the people for many miles
+round. The earthquake in 1832, which laid the
+villages near Ponte San Giovanni in almost total ruin,
+shook down the nave and choir of the Angeli creating
+havoc impossible to describe. By supreme good fortune,
+shall we say by a miracle, the cupola of Danti
+and Alessi remained intact above the Portiuncula, which
+otherwise would have been utterly destroyed. In rebuilding
+the church, Poletti, the Roman architect employed,
+deviated slightly from Vignola's original plan,
+and further he erected a more elaborate and far less
+elegant façade than the first one, but baroque as it is
+we may be thankful that the niches for statues of the
+saints have remained empty. There have been other
+earthquakes since that of 1832, and when they occurred
+a pyramid of faggots was carefully piled upon the
+Portiuncula for protection in case a miracle might not
+intervene a second time to save it from destruction.</p>
+
+<p>The friars took an active part in the work, building
+the campanile and carving the handsome pulpit and the
+cupboards in the sacristy. The marble altar was given
+in 1782 by Mehemet Ali, the ruler of Egypt, and many
+noble Italian families contributed towards the erection
+of the chapels containing decadent paintings which it
+would be useless to describe or to look at. One priceless
+treasure ornaments the chapel of San Giuseppe (in
+the left transept), a work of Andrea della Robbia in
+terra-cotta of blue and white which is like a portion of
+the sky seen through the cool branches of a vine on a
+glaring summer's day. Andrea is truly the sculptor
+of the franciscans, for there are but few of his works
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">337</a></span>
+where an incident from St. Francis' life is not introduced,
+and with what feeling they are realised. On
+one side of the beautiful Madonna who bends to receive
+her crown from the hands of the Saviour, is represented
+with great dignity and simplicity St. Francis receiving
+the Stigmata, on the other St. Jerome and his lion.
+Beneath is a predella divided into three compartments,
+the Annunciation, Christ in the manger, and the Adoration
+of the Magi; and Andrea has framed in the whole
+with a slightly raised garland of apples, fir-cones and
+Japanese medlars, which suits the delicacy of the workmanship
+of the small scenes better than a heavier wreath
+of fruit and leaves. In the Capella delle Reliquie (in
+the right transept) is a Crucifixion painted on panel by
+Giunta Pisano (?) with medallion half figures of the Virgin
+and St. John; below are kneeling angels by an Umbrian
+artist, whose work contrasts most strangely with the
+ancient painting belonging to the dark years before Giotto.</p>
+
+<p>In a preceding chapter we lamented the efforts that
+have been made to decorate the Portiuncula, now alas
+no longer the shrine among the oak trees; not only in
+earlier centuries did Umbrian artists cover its rough
+stones in many parts with frescoes, but the German
+artist Overbeck has added another superfluous decoration
+to the façade, severely, but justly criticised by M. Taine,
+and a German lady has painted the Annunciation on
+the apse. A very small picture by Sano di Pietro of
+the Madonna and Child hangs above, a very charming
+example of the master's work. Very little remains of
+Pietro Perugino's Crucifixion, and what there is has
+been well covered over with modern paint. The choir
+of the monks built outside the Portiuncula having been
+removed in the eighteenth century half of Perugino's
+fresco was destroyed, leaving only the groups of people
+at the foot of the Cross, amongst whom we recognise
+St. Francis.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">338</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A naïve legend is recalled to us by the stone slab
+let into the wall close to the side entrance, recording
+the spot where Pietro Cataneo, the first vicar of the
+Order during the life of the saint, is buried. He was
+as holy as the rest of those first enthusiasts, and after
+death so many miracles were wrought at his tomb that
+the peace of the friars was disturbed. The case
+becoming serious they had recourse to St. Francis
+who, seeing the danger that their lonely abode would
+become a place of pilgrimage, addressed an admonition
+to Pietro Cataneo, saying that as he had ever been
+obedient in life so must he be in death and cease to
+perform such marvellous miracles. After this when
+peasants came to pray for some favour at his tomb no
+answer was vouchsafed, so that gradually their faith in
+his intercession ceased and peace again reigned at the
+Portiuncula.</p>
+
+<p>The extent of the present church is so immense that
+the site of all the scattered huts of the brethren and the
+little orchard so carefully tended by the saint, are contained
+within its walls. Over what was the infirmary
+where St. Francis died St. Bonaventure built a chapel
+which Lo Spagna decorated with portraits (?) of the
+first franciscans, now seen very dimly like shadows on
+its walls by the flickering light of the tapers. Out of
+the half gloom stands strongly outlined in a niche above
+the altar, a beautiful terra-cotta statue of St. Francis
+by Andrea della Robbia. The hood is thrown back,
+the head slightly raised, and in the sad but calm expression
+of the exquisitely modelled face Andrea conveys
+a truer feeling of the suffering Poverello than
+all the so-called portraits. One of these, said to be
+painted on the lid of the saint's coffin by Giunta Pisano,
+hangs outside the chapel, but it looks more like a bad
+copy of Cimabue's St. Francis in the Lower Church,
+and we would fain leave with the remembrance unspoilt
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">339</a></span>
+of Andrea's fine conception. Passing through the
+sacristy containing a head of Christ by an unknown
+follower of Perugino and a small Guido Reni (?), we
+reach the chapel of St. Charles Borromeo where an
+ancient and much restored portrait of St. Francis, said
+to be painted on part of his bed, hangs above the altar;
+it is in every way less interesting than the one in the
+sacristy of the Lower Church. From here an open
+colonnade leads past a little plot of ground, which in
+the days of the Little Brethren was the orchard of the
+convent. One day as the saint left his cell he stopped
+a moment to speak with the friar who attended to the
+land, "begging him not to cultivate only vegetables,
+but to leave a little portion for those plants which in
+due time would bring forth brother flowers, for the love
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">340</a></span>
+of Him who is called 'flower of the field and lily of
+the valley.'" Accordingly a "fair little garden" was
+made, and often while St. Francis caressingly touched
+the flowers, his spirit seemed to those who watched
+him to be no longer upon earth but to have already
+reached its home. On the other side, carefully preserved
+within wire netting, is the famous Garden of
+Roses, and standing in the midst, like ruins of some
+temple, are the four pillars which in olden times
+supported a roof above the Portiuncula. In the days
+when St. Francis had his hut close by, this cultivated
+garden was only a wilderness of brambles in the forest,
+and the legend tells how the saint being assailed by
+terrible temptation as he knelt at prayer through the
+watches of the night, ran out into the snow and rolled
+naked among the brambles and thorns to quiet the
+fierce battle within his soul. The moonlight suddenly
+broke through the clouds shining upon clusters of white
+and red roses, their leaves stained with the saint's blood
+which had fallen upon the brambles and produced these
+thornless flowers, while celestial spirits filled the air with
+hymns of praise. Throwing a silken garment over him
+and flooding his pathway with heavenly radiance, the
+angel led him to the Portiuncula where the Madonna
+and Child appeared to him in a vision. The legend
+has been often illustrated, Overbeck's fresco on the
+façade of the chapel records it yet again where St.
+Francis is represented as offering to the Virgin the
+roses he had gathered.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo357" id="illo357"></a>
+<img src="images/illus357.jpg" width="450" height="375" alt="THE GARDEN OF THE ROSES AT STA. MARIA DEGLI ANGELI"  />
+<p class="caption">THE GARDEN OF THE ROSES AT STA. MARIA DEGLI ANGELI</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>A few steps beyond the Garden of the Roses lies
+the Chapel of the Roses built by St. Bonaventure over
+the hut of St. Francis, which was afterwards enlarged
+by St. Bernardine. The place where he spent his few
+moments of repose and so many hours of prayer, can
+be seen through the grating on a level with the chapel
+floor, and resembles more the lair of a wild animal than
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">341</a></span>
+an ordinary abode of man; but such places were dear
+to him, and he rejoiced in having the open forest outside
+his cell into which he wandered at all times of the
+day and night, and where the brethren, ever curious to
+watch their beloved and holy master, could see him on
+moonlight nights holding sweet converse with heavenly
+spirits. The choir of the chapel is frescoed by Lo
+Spagna who repeated again the figures of the first
+franciscans, adding those of St. Bonaventure, St.
+Bernardine of Siena, St. Louis of Toulouse, and St.
+Anthony of Padua on the left wall, and St. Clare and
+St. Elisabeth of Hungary on the right wall. The
+fresco on the ceiling is said to be by Pinturricchio.
+The paintings in the nave by Tiberio d'Assisi are
+faintly coloured and a poor example of Umbrian art;
+only the last scene is interesting, where St. Francis
+publishes the indulgence in the presence of the seven
+bishops, as it gives an accurate representation of the
+Portiuncula in the fifteenth century with Niccolò
+da Foligno's fresco still upon the façade. It tells the
+legend of the "Perdono" which even to the present
+day plays so important a part in the religious life of
+Assisi, bringing crowds every year to the Portiuncula
+for whom the Angeli was finally built. Disentangling
+the story from the legend by no means diminishes its
+charm, while we get a very striking historical scene
+showing us St. Francis in yet another light. Once
+when the saint was praying at the Portiuncula, Christ
+and his Mother appeared to him to ask what favour he
+desired, for it would be granted by reason of his great
+faith. The salvation of souls being ever the burden of
+his prayers he begged for a plenary indulgence, to be
+earned by all who should enter the Portiuncula on a
+special day. "What thou askest, O Francis," replied
+Christ, "is very great; but thou art worthy of still
+greater favours. I grant thy prayer; but go and find
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">342</a></span>
+my Vicar, the Sovereign Pontiff Honorius III, at
+Perugia, and ask him in my name for this indulgence."
+Early next morning St. Francis, accompanied by Peter
+Cataneo and Angelo da Rieti, started along the road
+to Perugia where Innocent III, had but lately died
+and the pious Honorius been immediately elected as his
+successor. It was in the early summer of 1216 that
+the little band of friars were led into the presence of
+the Pope in the old Canonica, but not for the first
+time did St. Francis find himself in the presence of
+Rome's sovereign, gaining his cause now as before
+through the great love that made his words and
+actions seem inspired. At first the Pope murmured at
+the immensity of the favour asked but finally, his
+heart being touched by the fervour of the saint, he
+said: "For how many years do you desire this indulgence.
+Perchance for one or two, or will you that
+I grant it to you for seven?" The Pope had still to
+learn the depths of love in the saint's heart who stood
+before him pleading so earnestly for the souls of men,
+not during his life only, but during centuries to come.
+"O Messer il Papa," cried St. Francis in accents
+almost of despair, "why speakest thou of years and of
+time? I ask thee not for years, but I ask thee for souls."
+"It is not the custom of the Roman Curia," answered
+the Pope, "to grant such an indulgence."</p>
+
+<p>"Your Holiness," said the saint, "it is not I who ask
+for it, but He who has sent me, the Lord Jesus Christ."</p>
+
+<p>The Pope conquered by these words and driven by a
+sudden impulse said, "We accord thee the indulgence."
+The Cardinals who had remained silent now began
+to murmur and reminded the Pope, like cautious
+guardians of the Papal interests, that this plenary indulgence
+would greatly interfere with those granted
+for pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and for visiting the
+tombs of the Blessed Apostles.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">343</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"We have given and granted it to him," answered
+Honorius. "What has been done we cannot undo, but
+we will modify it so that the indulgence will be but
+for one full day." And motioning the saint to approach
+he said: "From henceforth we grant that whoso comes
+to and enters this church, being sincerely repentant
+and having received absolution, shall be absolved from
+all punishment and all faults, and we will that this
+indulgence be valid every year in perpetuity, but for
+one day only from the first vesper of the one day
+until the first vesper of the next." Hardly had the
+Pope ceased speaking when St. Francis radiant with
+joy turned to depart.</p>
+
+<p>"<i>O semplicione quo vadis?</i> O simple child without
+guile, whither goest thou? Whither goest thou without
+the document ratifying so great a favour?" quoth
+the Pope.</p>
+
+<p>"If this indulgence," answered the saint, "is the
+work of God, I have no need of any document, let
+the chart be the Blessed Virgin Mary, the notary
+Christ and my witnesses the angels."</p>
+
+<p>Round this historical interview the legend makers
+wove the pretty story of the roses which flowered
+in mid-winter among the snow, relating that after the
+concession of the indulgence in the summer of 1216
+occurred this rose miracle, and Christ in a vision
+bade the saint go to Rome in order that the day might
+be fixed for the gaining of the indulgence, and to
+convince Honorius of the truth of his revelation he
+was to carry some of the roses with him. But having
+already obtained the Pope's sanction at Perugia, it
+was unlikely that the saint would wait another year
+before proclaiming the glad tidings to all the country-side,
+and we may be sure that no sooner had he
+returned to the Portiuncula from Perugia than he made
+speedy preparations for the arrival of a great concourse
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">344</a></span>
+of people. On the afternoon of the first of August the
+plain about the Portiuncula was filled with pilgrims
+from far and near, and many friars hastened from
+distant parts to listen to their master's wonderful
+message. He mounted the wooden pulpit which had
+been erected beneath an oak tree close to the chapel,
+followed by the seven Umbrian bishops who were to
+ratify his proclamation of the indulgence. St. Francis
+discoursed most eloquently to the assembled multitude
+and then in the fullness of his joy cried out to them,
+"I desire to send you all to Paradise," and announced
+the great favour he had obtained for them from the
+Holy Pontiff. When the bishops heard him proclaim
+the indulgence as "perpetual" they murmured among
+themselves, and finally exclaimed that he had misunderstood
+the words of the Pope, and that they
+intended to do only what was right and ratify the
+indulgence for ten years. Full of righteous feeling
+the bishop of Assisi stepped forward to correct the
+error into which the saint had fallen, but to the astonishment
+of his companions he declared the indulgence to
+have been granted for all time. Then the others
+murmured still more, saying he had done this because
+he was an Assisan and wished to bring great honour
+to his diocese; so the bishop of Perugia, determining
+to set the mistake right, began to speak, but he found
+himself forced by a supernatural power to proclaim the
+indulgence in the very words of St. Francis. The
+same thing happened to the other five bishops, and
+St. Francis then saw his dearest wishes realised.</p>
+
+<p>Daily the fame of the Portiuncula increased, and
+the year 1219 witnessed another immense gathering of
+people, but this time it was the meeting of the five
+thousand franciscan friars who came from distant
+parts to attend the Easter Chapter held by St. Francis
+in the plain. One of the most vivid and interesting
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">345</a></span>
+chapters (the xiii) in the <i>Fioretti</i>, pictures for us "the
+camp and army of the knights of God," all busily
+employed in holy converse about the affairs of the
+Order. It relates how "in that camp were shelters,
+roofed with lattice and mat, arranged in separate groups
+according to the diverse provinces whence came the
+friars; therefore was this Chapter called the Chapter
+of the Lattices or of the Mats; their bed was the bare
+earth, though some had a little straw, their pillows
+were stones or billets of wood. For which reason the
+devotion of those who heard or saw them was so great,
+and so great was the fame of their sanctity, that from
+the court of the Pope who was then at Perugia, and
+from other towns in the vale of Spoleto, came many
+counts, barons and knights, and other men of gentle
+birth, and much people, and cardinals and bishops and
+abbots with many other clerics, to see so holy and great
+a congregation and so humble, the like had never yet
+been in the world of so many saintly men assembled
+together: and principally they came to see the head
+and most holy father of all these holy men...."<a name="FNanchor_113" id="FNanchor_113" href="#Footnote_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo364" id="illo364"></a>
+<img src="images/illus364.jpg" width="450" height="539" alt="THE FONTE MARCELLA BY GALEAZZO ALESSI"  />
+<p class="caption">THE FONTE MARCELLA BY GALEAZZO ALESSI</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">The Pardon of St. Francis or "Il Perdono
+d'Assisi."</span></p>
+
+<p>We cannot study the story of any Umbrian town
+without experiencing the feeling that it belongs to the
+past and was built in an age, which can only dimly be
+realised in the pages of old chronicles, by a people
+who were ever hurrying to battle, bent on glory and
+conquest for their cities. The character of the inhabitants
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">346</a></span>
+has changed, and though the wonderful little
+cities they built upon the hills remain much as in
+mediæval times, they have a peaceful and quiet loveliness
+of their own which could not have existed in
+those days of fevered struggle and unrest. The word
+Assisi brings up, even to those who have seen the
+town but for a day, a host of sunlit memories; of way-side
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">347</a></span>
+shrines with fading frescoes, whence Umbrian
+Madonnas smile down upon the worshippers; of
+ravines and forest trees; of vineyards where the
+peasants greeted you; of convent and Basilica glowing
+golden and crimson in the sudden changes from
+afternoon to sun-down, as they lie bathed in the last
+rays of light upon the hill above the darkness of the
+valley. All these things and many more pass through
+our minds, but the picture would be incomplete if we
+fail to recall two days in August when the undying
+power of St. Francis once more reaches across the
+centuries, arousing the people to a sudden return to
+mediæval times of expiation, prayer and strong belief
+in the power of a great saint's intercession.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo365" id="illo365"></a>
+<img src="images/illus365.jpg" width="450" height="331" alt="AN ASSISAN GARDEN IN
+VIA GARIBALDI"  />
+<p class="caption">AN ASSISAN GARDEN IN<br />
+VIA GARIBALDI</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The very mention of a feast savours in Italy of delightful
+things, of songs, of crowds of happy-looking
+people bent on the pleasures of a holiday as well as on
+praying for the good of their souls, and as a feast at
+Assisi sounded fairer than any other, we determined to
+become for the moment pilgrims and seek with them
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">348</a></span>
+for the "Pardon of St. Francis." So as the days
+drew near to August we stood once more on the
+terrace of the Hotel Subasio, and as we felt the cool
+air of the early morning coming from the mountains,
+long days of interminable heat at Florence were forgotten,
+and Assisi, with her gardens full of sweet-scented
+summer flowers, her streets resounding only
+with the plash of the water of many fountains, seemed
+to us indeed to possess more beauty, variety and
+brilliancy of colour than we had realised before. Never
+had the nights been so still as in that late July, when
+the peasants had gathered in their harvest and were
+waiting for the time of vintage; only the shrill notes
+of the crickets answered each other occasionally along
+the valley, and the frogs croaked on the margin of the
+rills below the town. But soon this calmness ceased
+as the country roused itself for the annual spell of
+madness; there were voices in the vineyards during
+the night, bonfires in the plains, and a general tremor
+of excitement filled men and animals, setting the thin
+Assisan cocks crowing at unearthly hours in the morning.
+A night of sounds and wakefulness preceded a
+day when the people of all the cities and villages near
+appeared to have arrived in Assisi, not for the feast&mdash;for
+it was only the 29th of July&mdash;but for the fair.
+We followed them to the Piazza della Minerva, no
+longer the quiet place of former visits when only a
+few citizens sat sipping their cups of coffee, or talked
+together as they walked leisurely up and down.
+Temples, buildings and frescoes were forgotten as
+we watched the peasants gather round the booths to
+purchase articles of apparel and household wares,
+bargaining in shrill voices to the delight of purchaser,
+seller and onlooker. All the people of the country
+seemed to be here, and the Umbrian sellers had decked
+their stalls with a dazzling mass of coloured stuffs as
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">349</a></span>
+attractive to us as to the Umbrian women. We bought
+large kerchiefs with red roses on a yellow ground to
+wear over our heads at the feast, and enormous hats with
+flapping brims, which the peasants, always interested in a
+neighbour's purchase, helped us to choose, saying, "take
+this one for no rain will come through it, and you need
+never use an umbrella." So a sun-bonnet was bought
+for rain and we went away convinced that no more
+delightful shopping could be done than during a fair
+day at Assisi, when a passing farmer and his family
+were ready to help us to choose the goods and to
+bargain, and moreover comforted us in the end by the
+assurance that in their opinion the money had been well
+spent. Later we strolled up to the Piazza Nuova,
+where an immense fair of oxen was being held, transforming
+another sleepy corner of the town into a busy,
+bustling thoroughfare. They were quiet beasts enough
+and we walked in among them stroking their soft noses
+as we watched the groups of excited peasants performing
+the various rites of selling and buying. When an ox
+was sold the broker joined the hands of vendor and
+purchaser by dint of much pulling, and then shook them
+up and down, shouting all the while, until our joints
+ached at the sight of this energetic signing of a treaty.
+The bargaining causes enormous amusement, the discussion
+on either side bringing a current of eager talk
+through the crowd; only the oxen were thoroughly
+weary of the whole affair as they gazed pensively at
+their owners. They were large milk-white creatures,
+the whole place was one white shimmering mass seen
+against the old walls of the town and the blocks of
+Roman masonry, calling up idle fancies of Clitumnus
+down in the valley just in sight, whose fields had given
+pasture to the oxen of the gods.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of that day Assisi was full of Umbrian
+men and women greatly concerned in buying and selling;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">350</a></span>
+but on the next the streets began to fill with
+people from distant parts of Italy, whose only thought
+was for St. Francis. At a very early hour of the 30th
+we were roused by the sound of many voices in the
+distance; going out on the terrace we saw a crowd of
+pilgrims coming across the plain, and others moving
+with slow steps up the hill. When near the Porta S.
+Francesco they knelt outside in the road and sang their
+hymn of praise before entering the Seraphic City. From
+dawn to evening a steady stream of pilgrims passed into
+the town, and the chanting, rising and falling like a
+fitful summer breeze, was the only sound to be heard
+throughout the day. Such different groups of people
+knelt together in the church, with nothing in common
+but the love for the franciscan saint whose name was
+for ever on their lips. They came from distant corners
+of Southern Italy generally in carts drawn by mules
+or oxen, for few could afford the luxury of coming by
+train. The Neapolitan women and those from the
+Abruzzi wore spotlessly white head-kerchiefs which
+fell round their shoulders like a nun's coif, a white
+blouse and generally a brilliant red or yellow skirt
+gathered thickly round the hips; the men were even
+more picturesque, with their waistcoats and knickerbockers
+of scarlet cloth, their white shirt sleeves showing,
+and their stockings bound round with leathern
+thongs. Some of the women from the Basilicata wore
+wonderful necklaces of old workmanship, and gold
+embroidered bands laid across their linen blouses, while
+long pins with huge knobs of beaten silver fastened
+their headgear of black and white cloth. There were
+two women from the mountains of the Basilicata who
+wore thick cloth turbans, and blue braid plaited in and
+out of their hair at one side, giving them a coquettish
+air; they suffered beneath the burden of their thick
+stuff dresses made with straight short jackets and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">351</a></span>
+skirts and big loose sleeves. Their felt boots
+were ill-fitted for Umbrian roads, and altogether
+they were attired for a winter climate and not for
+a burning August day in mid Italy. "Ah, it is cool
+among our mountains," they said with a sigh gazing
+wearily down at the plain which sent up hot vapours to
+mingle with the dust. Many of them had been three
+weeks on their journey and they look upon it as a great
+holiday, an event in
+their lives which cannot
+be often repeated
+for they are poor and
+depend for their livelihood
+upon the produce
+of their fields; but even
+the poorest brings enough
+to have a mass said at
+the Portiuncula and to
+drop some coppers on
+the altar steps. A few
+wandered through the
+Upper Church looking
+at Giotto's frescoes, but
+unable to read the story
+for themselves turned to
+us for an explanation
+when we happened to be there. They patted our faces,
+saying <i>carina</i> by way of thanks, but realised little or
+nothing about the saint they had come so far to honour,
+only being certain that his intercession was all powerful.
+Several peasants sat in turn upon the beautiful Papal
+throne in the choir, both as a cure and as a preventive
+against possible ailments, and thinking there was some
+legend as to its miraculous qualities we asked them to
+tell us about it. They looked up surprised and very
+simply said, "It stands in the church of San Francesco,"
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">352</a></span>
+this was enough in their eyes to explain all miracles
+and wonders. A favourite occupation was kneeling by
+the entrance door of the Lower Church and listening
+for mysterious sounds which are said to come from the
+small column fixed in the ground. "What are you
+doing," we asked, cruelly disturbing the devotion of an
+old man in our desire for information. "I am listening
+to the voice of St. Francis," he answered, telling us
+that we might hear it too, but as he was in no hurry to
+cede his place to others we had no chance of verifying
+his strange assertion. The priests had a double function
+to perform, for while hearing confessions they held a
+long rod in their hands with which they tapped the
+heads of the peasants passing down the church; it was
+a blessing, which by the ignorant might be mistaken
+for some mysterious kind of fishing in invisible waters.
+At first the northern mind was surprised at the familiar
+way the pilgrims used the churches as their home, many
+being too poor to afford a lodging in the town.
+Especially at the Angeli we saw the strange uses side altars
+were put to; a family, having heard several masses and
+duly performed all their spiritual duties, would settle
+themselves comfortably on the broad steps of an altar,
+unfasten their bundles and proceed to breakfast off large
+hunches of bread and a mug of water; what remained
+of the water was employed in washing their feet. One
+man who had tramped for many days along dusty roads
+and wished to change his clothes, conceived the novel
+idea of retiring into a confessional box for the purpose.
+His wife handed him in the clean things and presently
+he drew aside the curtain, and emerged in spotless festive
+apparel with his travelling suit tied up in a large red
+handkerchief.</p>
+
+<div class="figright"><a name="illo369" id="illo369"></a>
+<img src="images/illus369.jpg" width="225" height="255" alt="WOMEN FROM THE BASILICATA"  />
+<p class="caption">WOMEN FROM THE BASILICATA</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Late in the evening of the 30th we happened to be
+at the Angeli when a new batch of pilgrims arrived,
+and for a long time we watched them reverently approach
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">353</a></span>
+the Portiuncula on their knees, singing all the
+time the pilgrim's hymn with the ever-recurring refrain,
+"Evviva Maria e Chi la creò," which resounded through
+the church in long drawn nasal notes ending in a kind
+of stifled cry. There was something soothing in the
+plaintive, monotonous cadence as it reached us at the
+Garden of the Roses, where we had gone to breathe
+the cool air which blows across the open colonnade even
+on the hottest of summer days. We were listening to
+Father Bernardine's peaceful talk about St. Francis
+and the cicala which sang to him in the fig tree, and
+the lamb which followed the brethren to office, when
+suddenly we were startled by shrieks and screams in
+the church. "It is nothing, only the Neapolitans,"
+said Father Bernardine, smiling at our distress. But
+unable longer to bear what sounded like the moanings
+of the wind which always fills one with uneasy feelings,
+half of fear, half of expectation that something unusual
+is going to happen, we hurried once again into the
+church. There a sight met our eyes which we shall
+never forget. Lying full length on the ground, their faces
+prone upon the pavement, were women crawling slowly,
+so slowly that the torture seemed interminable, from the
+entrance of the great church to the Portiuncula, and
+as they crawled they licked the floor with their tongues
+leaving behind them a mark like the trail of a slug.
+As we watched these poor penitents dragging themselves
+along, unconscious of aught around them and
+only overwhelmed by the consciousness that they must
+make atonement for past sins, a terrible sense of compassion,
+misery and disgust came over us. Who could
+restrain their tears, though they may have been tears
+of anger that people should be allowed to practise such
+ignoble acts of self-abasement. One girl especially
+called forth all our sympathy. She came running in
+out of the sunlight, and after standing for a moment
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">354</a></span>
+at the entrance with her eager face uplifted towards
+the holy shrine, her eyes alight with the strange look
+of one bent upon some great resolve, she threw herself
+down full length upon the ground and commenced the
+terrible penance which she had come all the way from
+the Abruzzi mountains to perform.<a name="FNanchor_114" id="FNanchor_114" href="#Footnote_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a> She was very
+slight and her black skirt fell round her like a veil,
+showing the delicate outline of her figure against the
+marble pavement. Resting her naked feet against the
+knees of a man kneeling behind her, she pushed
+herself forward with the movement of a caterpillar.
+Another man tapped his pilgrim's staff sharply on the
+floor in front of her face to direct her towards the
+chapel, whilst her mother ever now and then bent
+down to smooth away the tangle of dark hair which
+fell round the girl like a shroud. Though prematurely
+aged by toil and suffering, the elder woman had a
+beautiful face, reminding one of a Mater Dolorosa
+as with bitter tears she assisted at her daughter's
+deep humiliation. Just as this sad little group
+neared the Portiuncula the girl stopped as though
+her strength were exhausted, when the mother, choked
+by sobs, lifted the heavy masses of her daughter's
+hair and tried to raise her from the ground. The
+pilgrims pressed round singing "Evviva Maria e Chi
+la creò" until the sound became deafening, while
+the men struck the ground almost angrily with their
+sticks, and at last the girl still licking the ground crawled
+forward once again. When she reached the altar
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">355</a></span>
+of the Portiuncula she stretched out one hand and
+touched the iron gates, and then like a worm rearing
+itself in the air and turning from side to side, she
+dragged herself on to her knees. As consciousness
+returned and the Southern blood coursed again like fire
+through her veins, she started to her feet and with wild
+cries entreated San Francesco to hear her, beating the
+gates with her hands and swaying from side to side.
+The cry of a wounded animal might recall to one's
+memory the prayer of that young girl, storming heaven
+with notes of passionate entreaty wrung from a soul in
+great mental agony. Other penitents came up to take
+her place almost pushing her out of the chapel. We
+last saw her fast asleep on the steps of a side altar
+curled up like a tired dog, but on her face was an expression
+of great calm as though she had indeed found
+the peace sought in so repulsive and terrible a manner.
+Silently we left the church and turned towards Assisi,
+breathing with joy the pure air and looking long at the
+hills lying so calm and clear around us. Next day, the
+31st of July, there was an excited feeling in the town,
+not among the Umbrians, for they take the annual
+feast of the "Perdono" quietly enough, but among the
+pilgrims, who having now arrived in hundreds and paid
+their first visit to the franciscan churches of the hill
+and of the plain, stood about in the lower piazza of San
+Francesco waiting with evident impatience for the opening
+of the feast of the afternoon. We caught their
+feeling of expectation and found it impossible to do
+aught else than watch the people from the balcony, and
+then we went down and wandered about among them.
+There were such tired groups of women under the
+<i>loggie</i> of the piazza, leaning back in the shadow of the
+arches with their shawls drawn across their faces to
+shut out the glare of the August sun. A crowd of
+girls rested on the little patch of grass near the church,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">356</a></span>
+some eating their bread, others sleepily watching the
+constant passage of people in and out of the church;
+for long spaces they sat silent, listlessly waiting, then
+suddenly one among them would rise and sing a southern
+song, sounding so strange in Umbria. Her companions,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">357</a></span>
+casting off the desire to sleep, joined in the chorus
+until the song was ended and they once more became
+silent watchers. The shadows began to deepen round
+the church, the feeling of expectation increased, and
+the hours of waiting seemed long to the crowd and to
+us, when about four o'clock the dense mass of people
+in front of the church divided. A procession of priests
+in yellow copes filed out of the Basilica, one among
+them carrying the autograph benediction of St. Francis
+(see p. <a href="#Page_210">210</a>), and went to the little chapel near the
+Chiesa Nuova built over the stable where the saint is
+said to have been born. Here the holy relic is raised
+for the faithful to venerate, and the procession returns
+to San Francesco. It is a small but important
+ceremony, the prelude to the granting of the indulgence.
+We had reached the chapel before the procession,
+through side streets, but soon returned to the lower
+church for the crowd was intolerable, and we had
+been warned that once the blessing had been given a
+mad rush might be made to reach San Francesco and
+that sometimes people were trampled under foot. Out
+of the burning heat we entered the cool dark church
+where Umbrian peasants had already taken their places,
+as spectators, but not as actors in the feast. Seated
+on low benches against the wall they formed wondrous
+groups of colour, like clumps of cyclamen and primroses
+we have seen flowering in a wood upon an Italian
+roadside. The gates across the church had been shut,
+and were guarded by gendarmes; we had arrived too
+late. But presently Fra Luigi appeared at the gate of
+St. Martin's chapel, and hurriedly we followed him
+down the dark, narrow passage leading to the sacristy;
+we had only just time to run across the church and
+take our places outside the chapel of St. Mary
+Magdalen, when the great crowd surged into the
+church. The excitement became intense, and the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">358</a></span>
+pilgrims who had followed in the procession as docile
+as lambs now could restrain themselves no longer, and
+hustled the priests forward, pressing them against the
+iron gates in their efforts to approach the altar. There
+was a moment of tension as the whole of the iron screen
+bent beneath the weight of the crowd when the gendarmes
+half opened the gate to allow the priests to pass through.
+With the relic swaying above their heads, they slipped
+in from among the pilgrims, who, finding the gates once
+more barred against them, began to moan and shout with
+deafening fury. The organ pealed forth mad music,
+the incense rose in clouds around the altar, and eager
+faces peered through the gates, which were battered
+with angry fists as the people pushed against each other
+so that the whole crowd rocked from side to side.
+Through it all stood the quiet figure of the priest,
+raising the relic high above the heads of the people
+whose voices were for the moment hushed, as the
+words of benediction were pronounced. Rapidly
+crossing the church, followed by his attendants, he
+entered the sacristy and shut the door, while four
+gendarmes stationed themselves at the corners of the
+altar to prevent people from mounting the steps, and
+others went to unbar the gates. There was a great
+creaking of bolts and hinges and in a moment the
+pilgrims rushed forward, afraid of losing even a single
+moment of the precious hours of indulgence, and cries
+of "San Francesco" almost drowned the sound of
+hurrying footsteps. Families caught each other by
+the arms and swept wildly round the altar, often
+knocking people down in their wild career, old women
+gathered up their skirts and ran, the Abruzzesi in their
+scarlet jackets, whom we had seen so calmly walking
+down the streets, stepped eagerly forward with outstretched
+arms and clasped hands calling loudly on the
+saint. Round they went in a perpetual circle, first past
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">359</a></span>
+the altar, then through the Maddalena chapel out into
+the Piazza, and back again without a single pause.
+Each time they entered the church they gained a new
+plenary indulgence. From the walls the frescoed
+saints leant towards us, and never had they seemed so
+full of peace and beauty, as on that day of hurry and
+strange excitement. We saw them through a mist of
+dust, but they were more real to us than the fanatics
+streaming past in mad career, and we greeted them as
+friends. Then as the sun went down in a crimson sky
+behind the Perugian hills, a great stillness fell upon the
+people, the gaining of indulgences for that day had
+ceased, and quietly those who had no shelters went
+into the country lanes to pass the night, or rested
+beneath a gateway of the town. Already Assisi was
+returning to her long spell of silence, for next morning
+at dawn the pilgrims would be on their road
+to Sta. Maria degli Angeli for the early morning
+mass.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><a name="illo374" id="illo374"></a>
+<img src="images/illus374.jpg" width="450" height="585" alt="SAN FRANCESCO AND THE LOWER PIAZZA"  />
+<p class="caption">SAN FRANCESCO AND THE LOWER PIAZZA</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Rashly we left the quietness of the town to join the
+crowd again down in the plain late the next afternoon
+when the feast was nearly over. The press of
+people was felt more at the Angeli than at San
+Francesco, as they gained the indulgence by simply
+walking round the church and through the Portiuncula
+without going outside. It was useless to struggle, or
+to attempt to go the way we wanted, for we were
+simply carried off our feet and borne round the church
+in breathless haste in the temperature of a Turkish
+bath. There were moments of suspense when we
+doubted, as the crowd bore us swiftly forward, whether
+we should pass the confessional boxes without being
+crushed against the sharp corners. The cries of
+"Evviva Maria, Evviva San Francesco," became
+deafening as we neared the Portiuncula, and the people
+surged through the doors, throwing handfuls of coppers
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">360</a></span>
+and silver coins upon the altar steps, and even at the
+picture of the Madonna above the altar in their
+extraordinary enthusiasm. How tired they looked,
+but in their eyes was a fixed look showing the feelings
+which spurred them on to gain as much grace as time
+would allow. They never paused, they never rested.
+With a last glance back upon the people and the names
+of Mary and Frances ringing in our ears we left the
+stifling atmosphere for the burning, but pure air outside.</p>
+
+<p>How peaceful it all seemed in comparison to the
+scene we had just witnessed. The Piazza was full of
+booths as on a market day, with rows of coloured
+handkerchiefs, sea-green dresses such as the peasants
+like, and endless toys and religious objects; old women
+sat under large green umbrellas selling cakes, and
+cooks, in white aprons and caps, stood by their pots
+and pans ready to serve you an excellent meal. From
+under a tree a man sprang up as we passed with something
+of the pilgrim's eagerness about him, saying,
+"See, I will sing you a song and dance for you,"
+shaking his companions from their sleep and snatching
+up his accordion, he began a wild, warlike dance upon
+the grass, while the others accompanied him with an
+endless chant. And so the hours crept on, until once
+again as the sun went down the pilgrims streamed
+quietly out of the church, but this time they gathered
+up their bundles and walked to the ox waggons
+which were standing ready in the road, and quite
+silently without delay they seated themselves, fifteen
+or twenty in a cart, to start upon their long journey
+home.</p>
+
+<p>Never had the town been so deadly still as on the
+2nd of August, when the inhabitants had gone down
+the hill to the church of the Angeli where they sought
+to obtain their indulgences now the pilgrims had
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">361</a></span>
+departed. Very quietly they knelt on the marble
+floor during the High Mass, silently they prayed, and
+with slow reverent steps they passed in and out of the
+Portiuncula until the Vesper hour, and the beautiful,
+calm evening then found them gathered round the
+altar of their saint. "Pray, ye poor people, chant and
+pray. If all be but a dream to wake from this were
+loss for you indeed."
+</p>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">APPENDIX</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">363</a></span></p>
+
+<p>To visitors who stay at Assisi for more than the usual
+hurried day, the following notes of walks and excursions
+may be of some use. A few of them have
+been already indicated by M. Paul Sabatier, in a paper
+printed at Assisi, to explain the sixteenth century map of
+the town found by him in the Palazzo Pubblico, of which a
+copy hangs in a room in the Hotel Subasio.</p>
+
+<p><i>In the Town.</i>&mdash;The public garden on the slope of the hill
+above the Via Metastasio is a delightful place. It was the
+ilex wood of the Cappucine convent until the present
+garden was laid out in 1882 by Sig. Alfonso Brizzi, when
+the friars' convent became a home for the aged poor.</p>
+
+<p><i>From Porta S. Giacomo.</i>&mdash;(<i>a</i>) A new idea of Assisi is
+obtained by following the mountain track from the Campo
+Santo round by the quarries and below the Castle to Porta
+Perlici. Looking across the ravine of the Tescio and up
+the valley of Gualdo and Nocera is a vision of Umbrian
+country in its austerest mood. Even if the whole of this
+walk cannot be taken we recommend all to follow the broad
+smooth road leading to the Campo Santo for a little, as the
+view of San Francesco and the valley beyond is very beautiful.
+(<i>b</i>) By taking the Via di Fontanella (see <a href="#Map">map</a>), straight
+down the hillside, the picturesque bridge of S. Croce is
+reached in about twenty minutes. M. Sabatier recommends
+the ascent of Col Caprile just opposite for the fine view of
+Assisi, but those who do not care for an hour's climb would
+do well, having seen the old bridge and its charming
+surroundings, to retrace their steps, and after about two
+minutes turn off to the right through the fields along a
+narrow footpath leading to a bridge over the Tescio and a
+farmhouse. Following the right bank of the torrent we
+reach the Ponte S. Vittorino (see <a href="#Map">map</a>), and return to the
+town by the old road skirting the walls of the franciscan
+convent and emerging opposite the Porta S. Francesco.
+Want of space prevents more being said than to urge all
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">364</a></span>
+visitors to go this walk, which is little known and will be
+found one of the loveliest they have ever seen. Every step
+brings something new; banks of orchis and cyclamen,
+glimpses of crimson and yellow rock in the brushwood by
+the hillside, the soft blue distance of the valley beyond, and
+above all, innumerable views of San Francesco, seen now
+with a bridge in the foreground, now framed in by the
+curved and spreading branches of an oak, and at every turn
+carrying our thoughts away to valleys of Southern France
+and fortress-churches crowning the wooded hills (see
+illustrations, pp. <a href="#illo231">215</a>, <a href="#illo235">220</a>). To realise the variety of
+scenery to be found in Umbria we must come to Assisi and
+hunt out her hidden lanes and byways.</p>
+
+<p><i>From Porta Perlici.</i>&mdash;(<i>a</i>) Out of this gate, turning to the
+left by the city walls, is one of the roads leading to the
+Castle; the others are clearly marked on the map. (<i>b</i>) The
+carriage road to Gualdo and Nocera goes for some miles
+along the valley, but is not completed.</p>
+
+<p><i>From Porta Cappucini.</i>&mdash;(<i>a</i>) The Rocca Minore is reached
+by a grass path going up the hill just inside the walls.
+A fine view of the eastern slope of Assisi is obtained (see
+illustration, p. <a href="#illo026">10</a>). (<i>b</i>) The Carceri is about an hour's
+walk from this gate, donkeys are to be had in the town for
+the excursion, or a small carriage drawn by a horse and a
+pair of oxen can get there, but it is the least pleasant way
+of going.</p>
+
+<p><i>From Porta Nuova.</i>&mdash;(<i>a</i>) A pleasant though not the shortest
+way back to the town, is the one which skirts round the hill
+inside the mediæval walls from this gate to Porta Mojano,
+and then outside the walls through the fields past the
+Portaccia to the carriage road just below Porta S. Pietro.
+(<i>b</i>) The ascent of Monte Subasio occupies about two hours
+and a half, though quick walkers will do it in less time.
+There are several paths which anyone will indicate to the
+traveller. The easiest, though the longest (about four hours),
+is the one mentioned by M. Sabatier, the road to Gabbiano
+and Satriano, which branches off to the left from the Foligno
+road not far from the Porta Nuova. After walking along
+the Gabbiano road for an hour, a lane leads up the hill for
+another hour to the ruined abbey of San Benedetto (p. <a href="#Page_82">82</a>).
+The path skirts the mountain to Sasso Rosso, three quarters
+of an hour, the site of the fortress of the family of St. Clare,
+and then one hour and a half brings us to the southern slope
+of Mount Subasio called the Civitelle, where the craters of
+the extinct volcano are to be seen. The highest point
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">365</a></span>
+(1290 metres), is reached in another half hour. The view
+is very fine; Nocera and Gualdo lie to the north, Monte
+Amiata to the west, a range of snowy mountains to the
+south, Mount Terminillo, the Sabine Appenines and the
+mountains of the Abruzzi, and Mount Sibella to the east.
+The return to Assisi, without passing the Carceri, takes two
+hours. (<i>c</i>) The road to San Damiano is marked on the map;
+it is good but very steep, requiring oxen to draw the carriage
+up the hill on the return. On foot it is only a quarter of an
+hour from the gate. (<i>d</i>) A long day's drive will take the
+traveller to Spello, Foligno and Montefalco, but it is a tiring
+excursion and only a faint idea can be obtained of these
+beautiful Umbrian towns. It is better, if possible, to give a
+day to each, and to see Bevagna, with her two exquisite
+romanesque buildings, on the way to Montefalco.</p>
+
+<p><i>From Porta Mojano.</i>&mdash;(<i>a</i>) To follow the path taken by St.
+Francis, when carried from the bishop's palace to the Portiuncula
+(p. <a href="#Page_111">111</a>), just before his death, we must take the
+road leading from the gateway to a small chapel, and turn
+to the right down a lane marked Valecchio on the map.
+St. Francis either passed through Porta Mojano or the
+Portaccia (now closed), but from here we follow in his
+footsteps straight down the hill to the hamlet of Valecchio,
+set so charmingly on a grass plot among the walnut trees,
+with part of its watch tower still standing (p. <a href="#Page_104">104</a>). In the
+plain we come to cross roads; the one on the left leads to
+San Damiano in about forty minutes, that to the right to the
+leper hospital (now known as S. Agostino), whence St.
+Francis blessed Assisi for the last time (p. <a href="#Page_111">111</a>). (<i>b</i>) From
+the gate a few minutes brings us to a path crossing the fields
+to the left, to the old church of S. Masseo built in 1081 by
+Lupone Count of Assisi to serve as a chapel to the monastery,
+now the dwelling place of peasant families. (<i>c</i>) From
+Porta Mojano a lane leads straight down to the plain, and
+just before reaching the high road where it crosses the
+railway at right angles, the chapel of S. Rufino d'Arce&mdash;the
+real Rivo-Torto&mdash;is seen in the fields to the left (see pp.
+<a href="#Page_93">93</a>-<a href="#Page_95">95</a>). By the side of the lane close to the railway line
+is the chapel of Sta. Maria Maddalena (see pp. <a href="#Page_93">93</a>-<a href="#Page_95">95</a>).
+This is about half an hour's walk.</p>
+
+<p><i>From Porta S. Francesco.</i>&mdash;There are several drives. (<i>a</i>)
+Perugia. (<i>b</i>) Bastia, the first station on the railway
+between Assisi and Perugia, possessing a triptych by Niccolò
+da Foligno. A beautiful view of the river Chiaggio is obtained
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">366</a></span>
+at the bridge of Bastiola. (<i>c</i>) A road from the Angeli
+branches off to Torre d'Andrea, where there is a picture by
+a scholar of Pinturicchio. But more delightful is the chapel
+of S. Simone a little further on, built right in the midst of
+the cornfields, whose walls are covered with frescoes of the
+fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. (<i>d</i>) A beautiful drive is to
+the Rocca di Petrignano, a hill-set village above the Chiaggio.
+To fully recount its story, the picturesqueness of its rock-cut
+streets and the charm of the chapel upon the heights,
+whose walls are covered from floor to roof with votive
+Madonnas and saints, would need a chapter to itself. It has
+been enthusiastically described by M. Broussolle in his
+<i>Pélerinages Ombriens</i>, but it may be well to remark that he
+calls the Rocca di Petrignano, for some unknown reason,
+the Rocca d'Assisi. (<i>e</i>) It is an hour and a half's walk to
+the church of S. Fortunato, across the bridge of S. Vittorino,
+recommended by M. Sabatier in his list of excursions. The
+way side chapel of S. Bartolo, with its interesting apse is
+passed on the way.</p>
+
+<p>It would be well to get the Italian military map, Fo. 123
+(either at Seeber, Via Tornabuoni, Florence, or at D. Terese,
+Perugia), if the pilgrim to Assisi wishes to explore the
+country round Assisi.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center b125 p6">INDEX</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">367</a></span></p>
+<p class="center b110 p2">A</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Agnes</span>, Blessed, persecution of, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>;
+  enters convent of San Damiano, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>;
+  assists at death-bed of St. Clare, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Agostino da Siena</span>, tomb by, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Albi</span>, Cathedral of, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Albornoz</span>, Cardinal, takes Assisi, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>;
+  rebuilds castle, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>;
+  builds chapel in San Francesco, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>;
+  builds portion of colonnade of convent, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>; <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Alessi</span>, Galeazzo, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_193">193</a>;
+  remodels San Rufino, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>;
+  designs cupola of the Angeli, <a href="#Page_335">335</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Alexander IV</span>, Pope, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>;
+  canonizes St. Clare, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; VI, Pope, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>; <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Alunno</span>, <i>see</i> <a href="#FOLIGNO">Niccolò da Foligno</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Angelo</span>, Brother, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>; <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Angeli</span>, Padre, book by, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Anthony</span>, St., of Padua, at Assisi, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>; <a href="#Page_166">166</a>; <a href="#Page_192">192</a>; <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Ansano</span>, St., <a href="#Page_304">304</a>; <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Arezzo</span>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>; <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Arles</span>, Apparition of St. Francis at, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Arno</span>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>; <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Arnold</span>, Matthew, quoted, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Assisi</span>, passim.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Avignon</span>, Popes at, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>: <i>note</i> <sup>2</sup> <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</li>
+
+</ul></div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">B</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Baglioni</span>, The, besiege and take Assisi, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>;
+  feud with the Fiumi, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>;
+  <i>note</i> <sup>2</sup> <a href="#Page_259">259</a>;
+  downfall of, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Gian Paolo, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Malatesta, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Bagnora</span>, St. Bonaventure born at, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Basileo</span>, Bishop, builds first church of San Rufino, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Bastia</span>, Benedictine convent at, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Benedict</span>, St., repairs the Portiuncula, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Benedictines</span>, Abbey of, on Mount Subasio, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>;
+  gifts of, to St. Francis, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Berenson</span>, Bernhard, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>;
+  quoted, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>; <a href="#Page_251">251</a>; <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Bernard</span> of Quintavalle, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>; <a href="#Page_94">94</a>; <a href="#Page_114">114</a>; <a href="#Page_182">182</a>; <a href="#Page_273">273</a>;
+  house of, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Bernardine</span>, St., of Siena, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>; <a href="#Page_221">221</a>; <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Bernardone</span>, Pietro, family of, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_41">41</a>;
+  quarrels with St. Francis, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>;
+  house of, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>;
+  shop of, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Bevagna</span>, Roman battles near., <a href="#Page_5">5</a>;
+  St. Francis preaches to the birds at, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Blasco</span>, Ferdinando, tomb of, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Garzia, tomb of, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Bologna</span>, St. Francis preaches at, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Bonaventure</span>, St., quoted, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>-<a href="#Page_256">256</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_181">181</a>; <a href="#Page_206">206</a>; <a href="#Page_210">210</a>; <a href="#Page_273">273</a>; <a href="#Page_274">274</a>; <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Boniface</span> VIII, Pope, seeks counsel of Guido of Montefeltro, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Borgia</span>, Lucrezia, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Brienne</span>, Gauthier de, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>; <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Broglia</span> di <span class="smcap">Trino</span>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>; <a href="#Page_83">83</a>; <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Brizi</span>, Alfonso, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_322">322</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash;, Giuseppe, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Burckhardt</span>, J., <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li>
+
+</ul></div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">C</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Campello</span>, Fra Filippo, aids in building San Francesco, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>;
+  builds Santa Chiara, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Carceri</span>, Hermitage of the, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>; <a href="#Page_81">81</a>;
+  given to St. Francis by the Benedictines, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>;
+  road to, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>;
+  story of, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>-<a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Carmichael</span>, W. Montgomery, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap"><a name="Castle" id="Castle"></a>Castle</span>, The, of Assisi (<span class="smcap">Rocca</span> d'<span class="smcap">Assisi</span>), building of, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>;
+  Frederick II, stays at, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>;
+  destruction of, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>; rebuilt by Albornoz, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>;
+  story of, <a href="#Page_325">325</a>-<a href="#Page_334">334</a>.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">368</a></span></li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Celano</span>, quoted, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>; <i>note</i> <sup>2</sup> <a href="#Page_69">69</a>;
+  his description of St. Francis, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>; <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Knight of, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Charlemagne</span>, Emperor, besieges Assisi, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>;
+  rebuilds Assisi, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Chiaggio</span>, River, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_259">259</a>;
+  St. Rufino martyred in the, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Cimabue</span>, Giovanni, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>;
+  legends about, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>;
+  Madonna by, in San Francesco (Lower Church), <a href="#Page_155">155</a>;
+  frescoes in San Francesco (Upper Church), <a href="#Page_156">156</a>-<a href="#Page_160">160</a>;
+  Giotto adopted by, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>;
+  Giotto completes works of, at Assisi, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>; <a href="#Page_228">228</a>; <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Church of Santa Chiara</span>, sacked by Niccolò Piccinino, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>;
+  building of, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>;
+  frescoes in, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>;
+  portrait of St. Clare in, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>;
+  church of San Giorgio in, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>;
+  tomb of St. Clare found in, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>;
+  body of St. Clare in, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap"><a name="San_Damiano" id="San_Damiano"></a>San Damiano</span>, Niccolò Piccinino stays at, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>;
+  body of St. Francis brought to, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>;
+  St. Clare and her nuns live at, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  attacked by army  of Frederick II, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>;
+  Innocent  IV, at, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>;
+  relics at, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>;
+  crucifix of, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>;
+  choir of St. Clare at, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>;
+  bought by the Marquess of Ripon, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>;
+  frescoes in, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>;
+  funeral service of St. Clare held at, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>;
+  miraculous crucifix of, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">San Francesco</span>, building of, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  architect of, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>;
+  convent of, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>; <a href="#Page_133">133</a>; <a href="#Page_139">139</a>; <a href="#Page_221">221</a>; <a href="#Page_223">223</a>; <a href="#Page_227">227</a>;
+  resemblance to cathedral of Albi, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>;
+  St. Francis buried in, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>;
+  legend about, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>; <a href="#Page_144">144</a>; <a href="#Page_146">146</a>;
+  in the first years, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>;
+  campanile of, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_219">219</a>;
+  bells of, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>;
+  feast of the "Perdono" in, <a href="#Page_351">351</a>, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>, <a href="#Page_357">357</a>-<a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">Lower Church</span>, The, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>;
+  pre-Giottesque frescoes in, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>;
+  Madonna by Cimabue in, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>;
+  Giotto's frescoes of the early life of Christ in, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  Giotto's frescoes of the miracles of St. Francis in, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>;
+  Giotto's allegories in 177, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  Chapel del Sacramento or of St. Nicholas in, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  stained glass windows in, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>; <a href="#Page_192">192</a>; <a href="#Page_193">193</a>; <a href="#Page_205">205</a>; <a href="#Page_206">206</a>; <a href="#Page_209">209</a>;
+  frescoes by Giotto in chapel of St. Maria Maddalena in, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  chapel of St. Antonio da Padova in, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>;
+  chapel of San Stefano in, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>;
+  chapel of St. Catherine or del Crocifisso in, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>;
+  chapel of St. Antonio in, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>;
+  cemetery of, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>;
+  tomb of Ecuba in, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>;
+  tomb of St. Francis in, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>;
+  chapel of St. Martin in, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>;
+  legend of St. Martin, frescoes by Simone Martini in, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  frescoes by Simone Martini in, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>;
+  frescoes above the papal throne in, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>;
+  frescoes by Pietro Lorenzetti in, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>;
+  chapel of St. Giovanno Battista in, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>;
+  sacristies in, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  portrait of St Francis in, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>;
+  porch of, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; &mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">Upper Church</span>, The, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_152">152</a>; <a href="#Page_156">156</a>;
+  frescoes by Cimabue in, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>-<a href="#Page_160">160</a>;
+  frescoes by contemporaries of Cimabue in, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  stained glass windows in, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  papal throne, pulpit and altar in, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>;
+  door of, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>;
+  Giotto's frescoes of the legend of St. Francis in, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>-<a href="#Page_250">250</a>;
+  frescoes by a follower of Giotto in, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>-<a href="#Page_256">256</a>;
+  intarsia stalls in, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">San Giorgio</span>, St. Francis canonized in, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>; <a href="#Page_273">273</a>;
+  body of St. Clare brought to, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>;
+  church of Santa Chiara built over, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>;
+  frescoes in, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">Santa Maria</span> degli <span class="smcap">Angeli</span>, building of, <a href="#Page_335">335</a>;
+  rebuilt after earthquake, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>;
+  works of Andrea della Robbia in, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>;
+  works of Giunta Pisano in, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>;
+  the Portiuncula in, <a href="#Page_337">337</a> (<i>see</i> <a href="#PORTIUNCULA">Portiuncula</a>); fresco by Perugino in, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>;
+  garden and chapel of the Roses in, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>;
+  frescoes by Lo Spagna in, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>;
+  frescoes by Tiberio d'Assisi at, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>;
+  feast of the "Perdono" at, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>-<a href="#Page_355">355</a>, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>-<a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">Santa Maria Maggiore</span>, franciscan legend connected with, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">Chiesa Nuova</span>, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>; <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">San Paolo</span>, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>;
+  fresco by Matteo da Gualdo in, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">369</a></span></li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Church of San Pietro</span>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>;
+  triptych by Matteo da Gualdo in, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>;
+  fresco in, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">Pellegrini</span>, <i>see</i> <a href="#CONFRATERNITY">Confraternity</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">San Rufino</span> (Cathedral), Frederick II, baptised in, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>; <a href="#Page_289">289</a>;
+  church beneath, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>;
+  building of, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>;
+  bell-tower of, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>;
+  doors of, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>;
+  interior of, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>;
+  triptych by Niccolò da Foligno in, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>;
+  connection with St. Francis, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap"><a name="Clare" id="Clare"></a>Clare</span>, St., parentage of, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>;
+  description of, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>;
+  founds order of Poor Clares, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;
+  delivers her sister Agnes from her persecutors, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>;
+  goes to live at San Damiano, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>;
+  friendship with St. Francis, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>;
+  last farewell to St. Francis, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>;
+  saves her convent and Assisi from the Saracens, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>;
+  her struggle with the Papacy, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>;
+  death of, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>;
+  miracle of the bread by, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>;
+  canonization and funeral of, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>;
+  church of, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>;
+  early picture of, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>;
+  body of, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Clement VII</span>, Pope, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Clitumnus</span>, river, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>;
+  Propertius lived near, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>; <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Comacine</span> builders, Guild of, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>;
+  house of, in Assisi, <a href="#Page_322">322</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap"><a name="CONFRATERNITY" id="CONFRATERNITY"></a>Confraternity</span> of <span class="smcap">San Crispino</span>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">San Francescuccio</span>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>;
+  frescoes at, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">San Lorenzo</span>, fresco at, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">dei Pellegrini</span>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>;
+  frescoes by Matteo da Gualdo in, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>;
+  frescoes by Mezzastris in, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>-<a href="#Page_320">320</a>;
+  fresco by Fiorenzo di Lorenzo in, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">San Rufinuccio</span>, frescoes in, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Conrad</span> of <span class="smcap">Suabia</span>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>; <a href="#Page_326">326</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Convent</span> of <span class="smcap">Santa Chiara</span>, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>; <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; of <span class="smcap">San Francesco</span>, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>; <a href="#Page_133">133</a>; <a href="#Page_139">139</a>; <a href="#Page_221">221</a>;
+  Guido of Montefeltro lives in, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>; <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Corroyer</span>, E., quoted, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Cortona</span>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>; <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Corythus</span>, King of Cortona, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Costano</span>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>; <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Christine</span>, Queen of Sweden, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Crowe &amp; Cavalcaselle</span>, Messrs, quoted, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>; <a href="#Page_171">171</a>; <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+</ul></div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">D</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Damiano</span>, San, <i>see</i> <a href="#San_Damiano">Church</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Dante</span>, quoted, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>;
+  portrait of, by Giotto, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Danti, Giulio</span>, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_193">193</a>;
+  designs cupola of the Angeli, <a href="#Page_335">335</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Dardanus</span>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>; <a href="#Page_3">3</a>; <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap"><a name="Domenico" id="Domenico"></a>Domenico</span> da <span class="smcap">San Severino</span>, designs stalls for San Francesco, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Dominic</span>, St., <a href="#Page_17">17</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_229">229</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_345">345</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Doni Adone</span>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>; <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.</li>
+
+</ul></div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">E</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Ecuba</span>, Queen of Cyprus, tomb of, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Egidio</span>, Brother, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>; <a href="#Page_50">50</a>; <a href="#Page_94">94</a>; <a href="#Page_111">111</a>;
+  quoted, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_118">118</a>; <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Elias</span>, Brother, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;
+  influence of, on the franciscan order, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>;
+  superintends building of San Francesco, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  character of, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>;
+  hides body of St. Francis, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_196">196</a>;
+  account of, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>-<a href="#Page_146">146</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_152">152</a>; <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Elisei</span>, Canon, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Etruscans</span>, The, found Perugia, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>; <a href="#Page_5">5</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Eusebio</span> di <span class="smcap">San Giorgio</span>, fresco by, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li>
+
+</ul></div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">F</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Fiorenzo</span> di <span class="smcap">Lorenzo</span>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>;
+  frescoes by, in Assisi, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Fioretti</span>, The, quoted, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_345">345</a>;
+  charm of, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Fiumi</span>, Jacopo, murders the Nepis, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>; <a href="#Page_33">33</a>;
+  robs sacristy of San Francesco, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>;
+  despot of Assisi, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Fiumi</span>, The, their rivalry with the Nepis, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>;
+  mother of St. Clare belongs to family of, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Flagellants</span>, The, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_60">60</a>; <a href="#Page_178">178</a>; <a href="#Page_314">314</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Fortebraccio</span>, Braccio, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Francis</span>, St., birth of, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;
+  teaching of, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>;
+  childhood of, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>;
+  description of, by Celano, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>;
+  imprisoned at Perugia, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>;
+  conversion of, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>;
+  dream of, at Spoleto, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>;
+  his symbol of the Lady Poverty, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>;
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">370</a></span>
+  succours the lepers, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>;
+  first foundation of the Order, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>;
+  interview of, with Innocent III, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>;
+  rule sanctioned by Innocent III, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>;
+  eloquent preaching of, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>;
+  gives St. Clare the veil, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;
+  founds Third Order, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>;
+  preaches before the Sultan of Egypt, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>;
+  sermon of, to the birds at Bevagna, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>;
+  love of nature, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;
+  converts the wolf of Gubbio, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;
+  friendship with Gregory IX (Bishop Ugolino), <a href="#Page_69">69</a>;
+  preaches before Honorius III, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>;
+  stays at La Vernia, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;
+  receives the Stigmata at La Vernia, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>;
+  farewell to La Vernia, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>;
+  blindness of, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>;
+  composes the Canticle to the Sun, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>;
+  elects the Carceri as his hermitage, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>-<a href="#Page_83">83</a>;
+  cell of, at the Carceri, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>;
+  challenges the nightingale to sing the praises of God at the Carceri, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>;
+  dries up the torrent, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;
+  causes a miraculous fountain to appear at the Carceri, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;
+  prophecy of, to Otto IV, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>;
+  goes to the Portiuncula with his brethren, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;
+  visits the Portiuncula as a child, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>;
+  obtains the Portiuncula as a gift, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>;
+  hut of, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>;
+  blesses Assisi, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>;
+  dictates his will, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>;
+  death of, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>;
+  funeral of, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>;
+  canonisation of, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>;
+  church built in honour of, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  secret burial of, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>-<a href="#Page_136">136</a>; influence of, on Elias, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>;
+  miracles of, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>;
+  fresco of marriage with the Lady Poverty, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>;
+  tomb of, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>;
+  autograph of, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>;
+  portrait of, by Giunta  Pisano, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>;
+  legends of, illustrated by Giotto and a follower, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>-<a href="#Page_256">256</a>;
+  obtains San Damiano as a gift, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>;
+  friendship of, with St Clare, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>;
+  statue of, by Andrea della Robbia, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>;
+  garden of, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>;
+  roses flower in the snow for, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>;
+  obtains the indulgence of the Portiuncula, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>, <a href="#Page_343">343</a>;
+  proclaims the indulgence, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Frederick I.</span>, Emperor, at Assisi, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; II, Emperor, at Assisi, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>; <a href="#Page_61">61</a>;
+  befriends Elias, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>; <a href="#Page_143">143</a>; <a href="#Page_144">144</a>; <a href="#Page_217">217</a>;
+  army of, besieges Assisi, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>-<a href="#Page_269">269</a>; <a href="#Page_326">326</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Fry</span>, Roger, quoted, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Foligno</span>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>; <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Niccolò da, <i>see</i> <a href="#FOLIGNO">Niccolò</a>.</li>
+
+</ul></div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">G</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Gentile</span> de <span class="smcap">Monteflori</span>, Cardinal, founds chapel in San Francesco, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_198">198</a>; <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Giacoma</span> da <span class="smcap">Settesoli</span>, friendship of, with St. Francis, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>;
+ tomb of, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Giottino</span>, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_186">186</a>; <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Giotto</span>, birth of, <a href="#Page_107">108</a>;
+  adopted by Cimabue, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>;
+  character of, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>;
+  first early frescoes of, at Assisi, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>-<a href="#Page_177">177</a>;
+  poem of, on poverty, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>;
+  Allegories by, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>-<a href="#Page_184">184</a>;
+  frescoes by, in chapel of Sta. Maria Maddalena, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>;
+  genius of, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>;
+  illustrates legend of St. Francis, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>-<a href="#Page_250">250</a>;
+  characteristics of, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>;
+  architecture of, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>;
+  contemporary opinion on, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>;
+  follower of, at Assisi, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Giovanni</span> da <span class="smcap">Gubbio</span>, builds San Rufino, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>; <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Giunta Pisano</span>, crucifix by, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_152">152</a>;
+  portraits by, of St. Francis, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>; <a href="#Page_337">337</a>; <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Goethe</span>, Wolfgang von, description of the Temple of Minerva, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Gozzoli</span>, Benozzo, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap"><a name="Gregory" id="Gregory"></a>Gregory IX.</span>, Pope, friendship with St. Francis, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>;
+  dream of, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>;
+  canonises St. Francis, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>;
+  founds San Francesco, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_152">152</a>;
+  portrait of, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>; <a href="#Page_219">219</a>;
+  wishes to give St. Clare the Benedictine rule, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Gualdo</span>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>; <a href="#Page_118">118</a>; <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Matteo da, <i>see</i> <a href="#Matteo">Matteo</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Gualtieri</span>, Duke of Athens, portrait of, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Guelfucci</span>, Bianca, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>;
+  aids St. Clare in her flight, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;
+  enters convent of San Damiano, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Gubbio</span>, wolf of, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>; <a href="#Page_291">291</a>; <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Guidantonio</span> da <span class="smcap">Montefeltro</span>, owns Assisi, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap"><a name="Guido" id="Guido"></a>Guido</span> da <span class="smcap">Montefeltro</span>, a monk in San Francesco, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>;
+  treacherous counsel of, to Boniface VIII, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Greccio</span>, feast of, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371"></a></span></li>
+
+</ul></div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">H</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+<li><span class="smcap">Honorius III.</span>, Pope, St. Francis preaches before, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>;
+  rule of St. Francis sanctioned by, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>;
+  grants St. Francis the indulgence of the Portiuncula, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.</li>
+</ul></div>
+
+<p class="center b110 p2">I</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Ibald</span>, Rev. Father Bernardine, <i>note</i> <sup>2</sup> <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Illuminatus</span>, Brother, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>; <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Ingegno, L'</span>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>; fresco by, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Innocent III.</span>, Pope, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>; power of, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>;
+  court of, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>; <a href="#Page_45">45</a>;
+  meeting of, with St. Francis, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>;
+  dream of, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>;
+  confirms rule of St. Francis, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>; <a href="#Page_237">237</a>; <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; IV., Pope, sanctions rule of St. Clare, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>;
+  at funeral of St. Clare, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">J</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Jacopo Tedesco</span>, architect of San Francesco, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>; <a href="#Page_125">125</a>; <a href="#Page_129">129</a>; <a href="#Page_156">156</a>; <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Jasius</span>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>; <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Juniper</span>, Brother, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>; <a href="#Page_112">112</a>; <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">L</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Leo X.</span>, Pope, mitigates franciscan rule, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; XIII., Pope, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Brother, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>; <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;
+  quoted, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>;
+  quarrel with Elias, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>;
+  receives autograph benediction from St. Francis, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Liberius</span>, Pope, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Lorenzetti</span>, Pietro, frescoes by, in San Francesco, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Louis</span>, St., of France, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_51">51</a>; <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">M</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Margaritone</span>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>; <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Martin</span>, St., chapel and legend of, in San Francesco, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <i>et seq.</i></li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Martini</span>, Simone, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>;
+  friendship with Petrarch, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>;
+  characteristics of, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>;
+  legend by, of St. Martin, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <i>et seq.</i>;
+  other frescoes by, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Mary Magdalen</span>, St., legend and chapel of, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Marzario</span>, Professor, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Masseo</span>, Brother, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>; <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;
+  letter of, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>; <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Matarazzo</span>, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_31">31</a>;
+  quoted, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap"><a name="Matteo" id="Matteo"></a>Matteo</span> da <span class="smcap">Gualdo</span>, frescoes by, in Assisi, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Metastasio</span>, house of, at Assisi, <a href="#Page_322">322</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Michelotti</span>, Biordo, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>; <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Milton</span>, John, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>; <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Minerva</span>, The Temple of, its legend, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>; <a href="#Page_301">301</a>;
+  description of, by Goethe, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Montefeltro</span>, <i>see</i> <a href="#Guido">Guido</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Montefalco</span>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>; <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Monte Frumentario</span>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">N</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Narni</span>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>; <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Nepis</span>, the family of, rivalry with the Fiumi, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap"><a name="FOLIGNO" id="FOLIGNO"></a>Niccolò</span> da <span class="smcap">Foligno</span>, triptych by, in San Rufino, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>; <a href="#Page_341">341</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; da <span class="smcap">Gubbio</span>, carves doors for San Francesco, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Nicholas</span>, St., chapel and legend of, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <i>et seq.</i></li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Nocera</span>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>; <a href="#Page_118">118</a>; <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">O</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Orsini</span>, Giovanni Gaetano, portrait of, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>;
+  tomb of, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Napoleone, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; The family of, <i>note</i> <sup>2</sup> <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Ortolana</span>, Madonna, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>; <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Otto IV.</span>, Emperor, at Rivo-Torto, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Oxford</span>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">P</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Pacifico</span>, Brother, vision of, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Palazzo Pubblico</span>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>; <a href="#Page_305">305</a>;
+  frescoes in, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">Sbaraglini</span>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; <span class="smcap">Scifi</span>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>; <a href="#Page_260">260</a>; <a href="#Page_262">262</a>; <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Parenti</span>, Giovanni, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>; <a href="#Page_133">133</a>; <a href="#Page_139">139</a>; <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Paul</span> III, Pope, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>; <a href="#Page_331">331</a>; <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Perugia</span>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>; <a href="#Page_9">9</a>;
+  wars with Assisi, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>;
+  governs Assisi, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>; <a href="#Page_29">29</a>; <a href="#Page_36">36</a>;
+  tries to steal body of St. Francis, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_196">196</a>;
+  St. Francis mocked in, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>; <a href="#Page_221">221</a>; <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Perugino</span>, Pietro, fresco by, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Piazza</span>, di Sta. Maria Maggiore, encounter of St. Francis with his father in, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>; <a href="#Page_310">310</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; di San Francesco, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; della Minerva, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>; <a href="#Page_31">31</a>; <a href="#Page_302">302</a>; <a href="#Page_330">330</a>; <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Nuova, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>; <a href="#Page_349">349</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; di San Rufino, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Pica</span>, Madonna, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>; <a href="#Page_102">102</a>; <a href="#Page_119">119</a>; <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Piccinino</span>, Niccolò, besieges Assisi, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>; <a href="#Page_27">27</a>; <a href="#Page_30">30</a>; <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Jacopo, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Pietro</span> <i>Cataneo</i>, Brother, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>; <a href="#Page_138">138</a>; <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Pintelli</span>, Baccio, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Pinturicchio</span>, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Pius II</span>, Pope, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; V, Pope, <a href="#Page_335">335</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap"><a name="PORTIUNCULA" id="PORTIUNCULA"></a>Portiuncula</span>, The, early connection with St. Francis, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>;
+  repaired by St. Benedict, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>;
+  given to St. Francis, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>;
+  cradle of franciscan order, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>;
+  St. Clare comes to, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>;
+  St. Francis dies at, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>; <a href="#Page_338">338</a>;
+  indulgence of, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>;
+  chapter of the lattices at, <a href="#Page_345">345</a>; <a href="#Page_353">353</a>; <a href="#Page_355">355</a>; <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Puzzarelli</span>, Simone, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Pontano</span>, Teobaldo, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Propertius</span>, born at Assisi, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>;
+  describes Assisi, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">R</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Renan</span>, E., quoted, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Reni</span>, Guido, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Rivo-Torto</span>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>;
+  leper hospitals at, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>;
+  description of, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>
+  vision of friars at, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Robbia</span>, Andrea della, his work in the Angeli, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>-<a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Rocca</span> d'<span class="smcap">Assisi</span>, <i>see</i> <a href="#Castle">Castle</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Rufino d'Arce</span>, San, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>;
+  St. Francis ministers to lepers at, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Rufino</span>, Brother, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; St., legend of, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>; <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Rumohr</span>, von, B., <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Ruskin</span>, John, quoted, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>; <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">S</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Sabatier</span>, Paul, quoted, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Sansone</span>, Francesco, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>; <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Scifi</span>, Chiara, <i>see</i> <a href="#Clare">St. Clare.</a></li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Count Favorino, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>; <a href="#Page_259">259</a>; <a href="#Page_261">261</a>; <a href="#Page_263">263</a>; <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Scott</span>, Leader, <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Severino</span>, <i>see</i> <a href="#Domenico">Domenico</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Sforza</span>, Alessandro, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>; <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</li>
+
+<li>&mdash;&mdash; Francesco, Duke of Milan, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>; <a href="#Page_26">26</a>; <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Sixtus IV</span>, Pope, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>;
+  statue of, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>; <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Spagna</span>, Lo, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>; <a href="#Page_338">338</a>; <a href="#Page_341">341</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Spoleto</span>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>; <a href="#Page_45">45</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Stanislaus</span>, St., <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Subasio</span>, Mount, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>; <a href="#Page_258">258</a>;
+  ways to, <a href="#Page_363">363</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Sylvester</span>, Brother, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">T</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Taine</span>, H., quoted, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Tescio</span> River, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>; note <a href="#Page_86">86</a>; <a href="#Page_124">124</a>; <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Thode</span>, Henry, note <a href="#Page_125">125</a>; <a href="#Page_158">158</a>; <a href="#Page_164">164</a>; <a href="#Page_165">165</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_171">171</a>; <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Three Companions</span>, legend of, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>; <a href="#Page_229">229</a>; <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Tiberio</span> d'<span class="smcap">Assisi</span>, frescoes at Assisi, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Totila</span>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>; <a href="#Page_325">325</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Trevelyan</span>, R. C., <a href="#Page_7">7</a>; <a href="#Page_8">8</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">U</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Ugolino</span>, Bishop of Ostia, <i>see</i> <a href="#Gregory">Gregory IX</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<p class="center b110 p2">V</p>
+<div class="left15">
+<ul class="idx">
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Vasari</span>, Giorgio, quoted, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>; <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Vernia</span>, <span class="smcap">La</span>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>; <i>note</i> <a href="#Page_75">75</a>;
+  St. Francis receives the Stigmata at, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>; <a href="#Page_210">210</a>; <a href="#Page_211">211</a>; <a href="#Page_243">243</a>; <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Vespignano</span>, Giotto, born at, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>; <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</li>
+
+<li><span class="smcap">Vitry</span>, Jacques de, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>; quoted, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="p2 center">TURNBULL AND SPEARS, PRINTERS. EDINBURGH</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372"></a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter p6"><a name="Map" id="Map"></a>
+<img src="images/illus391.jpg" width="650" height="315" alt="Map" />
+<p class="caption">PLAN OF ASSISI</p>
+<a href="images/illus391_big.jpg">View larger image</a>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnotes p6">
+
+<h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The legend may have arisen from the fact that Minerva
+had a temple near Miletos under the title of Assesia and the
+legend-weavers have caught at the similarity of sound to that
+of their own Umbrian town.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> <i>Carmina</i>, i. 22, translated by R. C. Trevelyan.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> <i>Carmina</i>, IV. i. 121; translated by R. C. Trevelyan. In
+another place Propertius gives bolder utterance to his pride:
+"Whosoever beholds the town climbing the valley side, let him
+measure the fame of their walls by my genius" (<i>Carmina</i>, iv. 5).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> See Cristofani, <i>Storia d'Assisi</i>, p. 42 for text of the MS.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Dante, <i>Inferno</i>, xix. p. 115. Translated by John Milton.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_6" id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> See <i>Les Nouveaux Mémoires de l'Academie de Bruxelles</i> (t.
+xxiii. pp. 29, 33); also <i>Un nouveau Chapitre de la Vie de S.
+François d'Assise</i>, par Paul Sabatier.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_7" id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Perugia was, on the whole, faithful to the Guelph cause.
+She was patronised by the Popes on account of her strong
+position overlooking the Tiber, and when inclined she freely
+acknowledged them as her masters but at the same time she
+was careful to guard her independence.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_8" id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> <i>Cronaca Graziani</i>, p. 522.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_9" id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> <i>Cronaca Graziani</i>, pp. 512 and 513.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_10" id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> <i>Cronaca Graziani</i>, p. 513.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_11" id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> <i>Cronaca Graziani</i>, p. 514, note 1.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_12" id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> For a full account of the Baglioni see the sixteenth-century
+chronicle of Matarazzo (<i>Archivio Storico Italiano</i>, vol.
+xvi. part ii.), who has immortalised their crimes in classic
+language; and also <i>The Story of Perugia</i> (Mediæval Towns
+Series, J. M. Dent &amp; Co.).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_13" id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> <i>Cronaca Matarazzo</i>, p. 75.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_14" id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> <i>Cronaca Matarazzo</i>, p. 75.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_15" id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i></p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_16" id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Fratini, <i>Storia della Basilica di San Francesco</i>, p. 287.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_17" id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> <i>Cronaca di Matarazzo</i>, p. 75.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_18" id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> For a true picture of the condition of Italian towns,
+torn by strife, decimated by famine, and suffering from leprosy
+brought by the crusaders, see Brewer's admirable preface in
+vol. iv. of the <i>Monumenta Franciscana</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_19" id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> The first tournament took place at Bologna in 1147.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_20" id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> Folgore di San Gimignano, translated by D. G. Rossetti.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_21" id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> These were the first troubadours to visit the Italian courts,
+driven from Provence by the crusades against the Albigenses.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_22" id="Footnote_22" href="#FNanchor_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> A certain Bernardo Moriconi, leaving his brother to carry
+on the business at Lucca, then famous for its manufacture of
+silk stuffs, came and settled at Assisi where he got the nickname
+Bernardone&mdash;the big Bernard. Whether in allusion to
+his person or to his prosperity, we cannot say, but the family
+name was lost sight of and his son was known as Pietro
+Bernardone.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_23" id="Footnote_23" href="#FNanchor_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> Celano. <i>Vita</i> I. cap. 1.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_24" id="Footnote_24" href="#FNanchor_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> Ruskin. <i>The two paths</i>: Lecture III.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_25" id="Footnote_25" href="#FNanchor_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Celano. <i>Vita</i> I. cap. 2.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_26" id="Footnote_26" href="#FNanchor_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> "Le vide lamentable de sa vie lui était tout à coup apparu;
+il était effrayé de cette solitude d'une grande âme, dans laquelle
+il n'y a point d'autel." Paul Sabatier. <i>Vie de S. François
+d'Assise</i>, p. 17.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_27" id="Footnote_27" href="#FNanchor_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> From a 15th century translation of the will of St. Francis.
+See <i>Monumenta Franciscana</i>. Chronicles edited by J. S. Brewer
+vol. iv. p. 562.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_28" id="Footnote_28" href="#FNanchor_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> Life of Beato Egidio in the <i>Little Flowers of St. Francis</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_29" id="Footnote_29" href="#FNanchor_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Life of Beato Egidio in the <i>Little Flowers of St. Francis</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_30" id="Footnote_30" href="#FNanchor_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> One of the most beautiful stories in the <i>Fioretti</i> (chapter
+xxxiv.) recounts how St. Louis, King of France, visited Beato
+Egidio at Perugia. The king and the poor friar kneeling
+together in the courtyard of the convent, embracing each other
+like familiar friends, is a picture such as only Umbrian literature
+could have left us. There was absolute silence between the
+two, yet we are told St. Louis returned to his kingdom and
+Egidio to his cell with "marvellous content and consolation"
+in their souls.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_31" id="Footnote_31" href="#FNanchor_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> See <i>Suprà</i>, p. 47.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_32" id="Footnote_32" href="#FNanchor_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> Quoted by Sigonius in his work on the Bishops of Bologna.
+<i>Opera omnia</i>, v. iii., translated by Canon Knox Little. <i>Life
+of St. Francis of Assisi</i>, p. 179.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_33" id="Footnote_33" href="#FNanchor_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> <i>Speculum Perfectionis</i>, cap. cv., edited by Paul Sabatier.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_34" id="Footnote_34" href="#FNanchor_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> <i>Fioretti</i>, cap. xiii.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_35" id="Footnote_35" href="#FNanchor_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> To franciscan influence must surely be traced the rise of
+the Flagellants at Perugia in 1265.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_36" id="Footnote_36" href="#FNanchor_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> See <i>Histoire de Sainte Elizabeth</i>, Comte de Montalembert,
+pp. 71, 72.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_37" id="Footnote_37" href="#FNanchor_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> It is related that when in 1216 some Franciscans went on
+a mission to Germany the only word they knew was "Ja,"
+which they used upon every occasion. In one town they were
+asked if they were heretics preaching a rival faith to catholicism,
+and as they continued to say "Ja, Ja," the citizens threw them
+into prison, and after beating them cruelly drove them ignominiously
+from the country. The account they gave of their
+experience to the other friars at Assisi created such a panic
+that they were often heard in their prayers to implore God
+to deliver them from the barbarity of the Teutons.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_38" id="Footnote_38" href="#FNanchor_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> Celano. <i>Vita</i> I. cap. xxi.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_39" id="Footnote_39" href="#FNanchor_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> Paul Sabatier. <i>Vie de S. Francis d'Assise</i>, p. 205.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_40" id="Footnote_40" href="#FNanchor_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> <i>Vita di S. Francesco</i>, p. 76. Edizione Amoni (1888. Roma).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_41" id="Footnote_41" href="#FNanchor_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> Celano, a learned nobleman from Celano in the Abruzzi,
+joined the Order in 1215, and gives by far the most charming
+and vivid account of St Francis, for besides knowing him well
+he had the gift of writing in no ordinary degree.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_42" id="Footnote_42" href="#FNanchor_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> <i>Vita</i> I. cap. xxvii.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_43" id="Footnote_43" href="#FNanchor_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> <i>Vita di S. Francesco</i>, da S. Bonaventura, p. 148, Edizione
+Amoni.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_44" id="Footnote_44" href="#FNanchor_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> This was a small chapel built for St. Francis by Count
+Orlando, and must not be confounded with the church of the
+same name near Assisi.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_45" id="Footnote_45" href="#FNanchor_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> The earnest wishes of the saint are to this day carried
+out by faithful friars who, even through the terrible winter
+months, live at La Vernia, suffering privation and cold with
+cheerfulness. At midnight a bell calls them to sing matins
+in the chapel of the Stigmata connected with the convent by
+an open colonnade, down which the procession files, following
+a crucifix and lanterns. When the service has ceased, the
+monks flit like ghosts behind the altar while the lights are
+extinguished and in the gloom comes the sound of clashing
+chains. For an hour they chastise themselves: then the torches are relit, the chanting is resumed, and calmly they
+pass down the corridor towards their cells. Moonlight may
+stream into the colonnade across the dark forms, or gusts of
+wind drive the snow in heaps before them, but the chanting is
+to be heard, and the monotonous cries of <i>ora pro nobis</i> break the
+awful solitude of night throughout the year upon the mountain
+of La Vernia.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_46" id="Footnote_46" href="#FNanchor_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> Here reference is made to the Portiuncula, near Assisi.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_47" id="Footnote_47" href="#FNanchor_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> The Sasso Spicco, which still can be seen at La Vernia, is
+a block of rock rising high above the mountain ridge, and
+seems to hang suspended in the air. It forms a roof over
+dark and cavernous places where St. Francis loved to pray,
+often spending his nights there with stones for his bed.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_48" id="Footnote_48" href="#FNanchor_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> The <i>Fioretti</i> relates that once while St. Francis was
+praying on the edge of a precipice, not far from the spot
+where he had received the Stigmata, suddenly the devil
+appeared in terrible form amidst the loud roar of a furious
+tempest. St. Francis, unable to flee or to endure the ferocious
+aspect of the devil, turned his face and whole body to the
+rock to which he clung; and the rock, as though it had been
+soft wax, received the impress of the saint and sheltered him.
+Thus by the aid of God he escaped.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_49" id="Footnote_49" href="#FNanchor_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> <i>Speculum Perfectionis</i>, cap. c., edited by Paul Sabatier.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_50" id="Footnote_50" href="#FNanchor_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> St. Francis composed this verse later on the occasion of a
+quarrel which arose between the Bishop of Assisi and the
+Podestà. The last couplet was added at the Portiuncula while
+he was on his death-bed.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_51" id="Footnote_51" href="#FNanchor_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> It has sometimes happened that visitors, who have not
+read their Murray with sufficient care, thinking "Le Carceri"
+are prisons where convicts are kept, leave Assisi without
+visiting this charming spot. "Carceri" certainly now means
+"prisons," but the original meaning of the word in old Italian
+is a place surrounded by a fence and often remote from human
+habitation.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_52" id="Footnote_52" href="#FNanchor_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> It is perhaps an insult to the Tescio to leave the traveller
+in Umbria under the impression that this mountain torrent is
+always dry. Certainly that is its usual condition, but we have
+seen it during the storms that break upon the land in August
+and September overflow its banks and inundate the country on
+either side; but with this wealth of water its beauty goes.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_53" id="Footnote_53" href="#FNanchor_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> The large modern church of Rivo-Torto, on the road from
+Sta. Maria degli Angeli to Spello, built to enclose the huts that
+St. Francis and his companions are supposed to have lived in
+while tending the lepers, has been proved without doubt by
+M. Paul Sabatier to have no connection whatever with the
+Saint. In these few pages we have followed the information
+given in a pamphlet which is to be found in the Italian translation
+of his <i>Vie de S. François d'Assise</i>. It is impossible here to
+enter into all the arguments relating to this disputed point,
+but I think the authority of the best, and by far the most
+vivid of the biographers of St. Francis can be trusted without
+further comment, and that we may safely believe the hut of St.
+Francis, known as Rivo-Torto, lay close to the present chapels
+of San Rufino d'Arce and Sta. Maria Maddalena. See <a href="#Page_363">Appendix</a>
+for information as to their exact position in the plain and the
+nearest road to them. <i>Disertazione sul primo luogo abitato dai
+Frati Minori su Rivo-Torto e nell'Ospedale dei Lebbrosi di Assisi.</i>
+di Paul Sabatier (Roma, Ermanno Loescher and Co., 1896).</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_54" id="Footnote_54" href="#FNanchor_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> See <i>The Transactions of the Royal Irish Academy</i>, vol. xxvii.
+Nov. 1882.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_55" id="Footnote_55" href="#FNanchor_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> <i>Speculum Perfectionis</i>, cap. lv., edited by Paul Sabatier.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_56" id="Footnote_56" href="#FNanchor_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> This custom ceased in the fifteenth century; but in the
+year 1899, through the piety of the Rev. Father Bernardine
+Ibald, it was revived. Once again the franciscans take a
+small basket of fish to the abbot and his monks who now
+live at S. Pietro in Assisi, where the benedictines went when
+their mountain retreat was destroyed by order of the Assisan
+despot, Broglia di Trino.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_57" id="Footnote_57" href="#FNanchor_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> This illustration is from a print to be seen in the somewhat
+rare edition of the <i>Collis Paradisi Am&oelig;nitas, seu Sacri
+Conventus Assisiensis Historiæ</i>, published in 1704 at Montefalco
+by Padre Angeli, and it may even have been taken from an
+earlier drawing. In it there is the true feeling of a franciscan
+convent, such as the saint hoped would continue for all time,
+and though there are some points which are incorrect (the
+Church of Sta. Chiara, though curiously enough not the convent,
+is represented, which was built several years later than San
+Francesco), we get a clear idea of both Assisi and its immediate
+neighbourhood. All the ancient gates of the town
+can be made out, the Roman road from Porta Mojano to San
+Rufino d'Arce, a faint indication of the path to the Carceri,
+and also the old road from Assisi to the plain out of the gate of
+S. Giacomo, passing not very far from the Ponte S. Vittorino.
+The wall round the Portiuncula and the huts did not exist in
+the time of St. Francis, which, together with the wooden gate,
+may have been added by Brother Elias. The largest hut a
+little to the right of the chapel was the infirmary where St.
+Francis died (now called the Chapel of St. Francis), and the
+one behind it was his cell (now known as the Chapel of
+the Roses, see <a href="#Page_335">chapter xi.</a> for its story), whence he could
+easily pass out through the woods to San Rufino d'Arce
+hard by.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_58" id="Footnote_58" href="#FNanchor_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> For fuller account see <i>The Mirror of Perfection</i>, translated
+by Sebastian Evans, caps. 107, 108, 112, and <i>The Little Flowers
+of St. Francis</i>, translated by J. W. Arnold (Temple Classics),
+chap. vi.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_59" id="Footnote_59" href="#FNanchor_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> In the same way when Beato Egidio, ill and nigh his end,
+wished to return to the Portiuncula to die in the place he loved
+so well, the Perugians refused their consent and even placed
+soldiers round the monastery of Monte Ripido to prevent his
+escape.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_60" id="Footnote_60" href="#FNanchor_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> In the illustrations on p. <a href="#illo054">38</a> and p. <a href="#illo123">107</a> is shown the
+gallows erected where now stands the franciscan basilica,
+but it is unlikely that the property of a private individual
+should have been used for such a purpose, and Collis Inferni
+may simply have meant the spur of hill beneath the upper
+portion of Assisi upon which the castle stood.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_61" id="Footnote_61" href="#FNanchor_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> See Vasari, <i>Life of Arnolfo di Lapo</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_62" id="Footnote_62" href="#FNanchor_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> It would be a thankless task to follow the bewildering
+maze of contradictory evidence which has enveloped the
+question as to who built San Francesco. Those who are
+eager to do so, however, can consult Henry Thode's exhaustive
+work, <i>Franz von Assisi</i> (beginning p. 187), which
+deals most thoroughly with the subject. Leader Scott also,
+in her learned book upon <i>The Cathedral Builders</i>, gives some
+ingenious theories with regard to "Jacopo" and his supposed
+relationship with Arnolfo, p. 315-316.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">Another book is <i>I Maestri Comacini</i>, by Professore Marzario,
+whose statements about "Jacopo's" nationality are
+interesting and probable. But, following Vasari a little too
+blindly, he gives us the startling fact that "Jacopo" died in
+1310, this, even supposing him to have been only twenty-five
+when he was at Assisi as chief architect, would make him
+one hundred and fifteen years of age at the time of his death.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_63" id="Footnote_63" href="#FNanchor_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> <i>L'Architecture Gothique</i> par M. Edouard Corroyer. See pp.
+96 and 105.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_64" id="Footnote_64" href="#FNanchor_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> <i>Speculum Perfectionis.</i> Edited by Paul Sabatier, cap. x.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_65" id="Footnote_65" href="#FNanchor_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> For the Latin text see p. c. of M. Paul Sabatier's introduction
+to his edition of the <i>Speculum Perfectionis</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_66" id="Footnote_66" href="#FNanchor_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> Giovanni Parenti, who does not stand out very clearly in
+the history of the Order, was a Florentine magistrate of Città
+di Castello, one of the first towns to feel the influence of St.
+Francis. There he heard of the new movement which so
+rapidly was spreading throughout Western Europe, and, together
+with many of the citizens, became converted through
+the teaching of the Umbrian saint.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_67" id="Footnote_67" href="#FNanchor_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> It is impossible in this small book to give any idea of the
+various influences at work upon the young franciscan order
+during the life of the saint. I can only refer my readers to the
+charming pages of M. Paul Sabatier, who gives us a vivid
+picture of these early days in <i>La Vie de Saint François</i>, and in
+his introduction to the <i>Speculum Perfectionis</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_68" id="Footnote_68" href="#FNanchor_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> It is difficult to say how free a hand the artists were
+allowed when called in to execute work for any church,
+but probably, in the case of San Francesco, they were obliged
+to illustrate precisely the scenes and events chosen by the
+friars, who in the case of the saint's legend would be very
+severe judges, requiring quite the best that the artist could
+produce.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_69" id="Footnote_69" href="#FNanchor_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> Later documents of the convent speak of a crucifix painted
+in 1236 by Giunta Pisano with a portrait of Brother Elias
+"taken from life" and the following inscription:</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><span class="i4">Frater Elias fieri fecit</span><br />
+<span class="i4">Jesu Christe pie</span><br />
+<span class="i4">Misere pecantis Helie</span><br />
+<span class="i4">Giunta</span> Pisanus me pinxit. <span class="smcap">a.d.m. mccxxxvi.</span></p>
+
+<p class="footnote">It hung from a beam in the Upper Church until 1624
+when it suddenly disappeared, and it seems to have inspired
+Padre Angeli (author of the "Collis Paradisi") with the
+theory that Giunta Pisano was the first to paint in San
+Francesco, ascribing to him, as some have continued to do,
+the frescoes in the choir and transept of the Upper Church.
+Messrs Crowe and Cavacaselle say, on what authority it is
+impossible to discover, that the middle aisle of the Lower
+Church "seems to have been painted between 1225 and
+1250," ignoring the fact that Pope Gregory only laid the
+foundation stone of the Basilica in 1228. Without trying
+to find such early dates for the history of art at Assisi, it
+appears to us quite wonderful enough that some fifty or
+sixty years after the ceremony of the consecration in 1253,
+Cimabue and his contemporaries&mdash;Giotto and his Tuscan
+followers&mdash;had completed their work in both churches.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_70" id="Footnote_70" href="#FNanchor_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> <i>Right</i> transept is always synonymous with <i>South</i> transept,
+but in this case, as San Francesco is built with the altar facing
+to the west because it was necessary to have the entrance away
+from the precipitous side of the hill, the <i>Right</i> transept looks
+to the <i>North</i>, the <i>Left</i> to the <i>South</i>, and we have thought it
+easier to keep to the actual position of the church in describing
+the different frescoes. Herr Thode in his book has done
+this, but it may be well to observe that Messrs Crowe and
+Cavacaselle refer to the transepts and chapels as if they faced
+the parts of the compass in the usual way.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_71" id="Footnote_71" href="#FNanchor_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> To facilitate seeing the paintings of the ceiling, both here
+and in the Lower Church, it would be well to use a hand-glass,
+a simple and most effectual addition to the comfort of
+the traveller.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_72" id="Footnote_72" href="#FNanchor_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> Mr Ruskin says that the gable of the bishop's throne is
+"of the exact period when the mosaic workers of the thirteenth
+century at Rome adopted rudely the masonry of the north.
+Briefly this is a Greek temple pediment, in which, doubtful of
+their power to carve figures beautiful enough, they cut a
+trefoiled hold for ornament, and bordered the edge with a
+harlequinade of mosaic. They then call to their aid the Greek
+sea waves, and let the surf of the Ægean climb along the
+slopes, and toss itself at the top into a fleur-de-lys."</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_73" id="Footnote_73" href="#FNanchor_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> There are only the most meagre scraps of information to
+rely upon as to the dates of Giotto's works at San Francesco,
+and it is needless here to enter into the endless discussion.
+One thing is obvious; the Assisan frescoes must have been
+executed before those at Padua which have always been
+assigned to 1306. In these pages we have sometimes followed
+the view held by Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle, sometimes
+that of Herr Thode, who appears to have studied the question
+with open eyes, but our final authority is M. Bernhard Berenson,
+who in a visit paid lately to Assisi was kind enough to
+point out many things which we should otherwise have passed
+by, and in the sequence of the frescoes by Giotto at San
+Francesco we have entirely followed his opinion.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_74" id="Footnote_74" href="#FNanchor_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> For Simone Martini's Madonna and Saints between the
+two chapels of this transept, see p. <a href="#Page_212">212</a>. The portraits (?) of
+some of the first companions of St. Francis, painted beneath
+Cimabue's fresco, belong to the Florentine school. It would
+be vain to try and name them.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_75" id="Footnote_75" href="#FNanchor_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> See Vasari, ed. Milanesi, vol. i. p. 426. (Sansoni
+Firenze.)</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_76" id="Footnote_76" href="#FNanchor_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a> It is often supposed that Giotto took the theme of this
+fresco from the well-known lines of Dante referring to the
+mystical marriage of St. Francis to Poverty. But Dante
+wrote the xi. canto of the <i>Paradiso</i> long after Giotto had
+left Assisi; both painter and poet really only followed the
+legend recounted by St. Bonaventure of how St. Francis
+met three women who saluted him on the plain of
+S. Quirico near Siena. These were Poverty, Charity and
+Obedience.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_77" id="Footnote_77" href="#FNanchor_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a> <i>Paradiso</i>, xi., Cary's translation.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_78" id="Footnote_78" href="#FNanchor_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a> This fact alone would disprove the idea that Giottino,
+who was born in 1324, could have been the author of these
+frescoes. Everything that cannot be attributed to other
+painters is put down as his work, so that we have many
+pictures and frescoes of totally different styles assigned to
+Giottino.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_79" id="Footnote_79" href="#FNanchor_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a> Some say this fresco represents the three youths begging
+St. Nicholas to pardon the consul who had condemned them
+to death, in which case it would come after the scene of the
+execution on the opposite wall.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_80" id="Footnote_80" href="#FNanchor_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a> The tabernacle on the altar is the work of Giulio Danti,
+after a design by Galeazzo Alessi, both Perugians, in 1570.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_81" id="Footnote_81" href="#FNanchor_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a> How right Elias was to hide the body of St. Francis in so
+secure a place is shown by the various endeavours made by the
+Perugians to secure the holy relics for their town. In the
+fifteenth century they attempted, while at war with Assisi,
+to carry off the body by force, and failing, had recourse to
+diplomacy. They represented to Eugenius IV, that it would
+be far safer at Perugia, and begged him to entrust them with
+it. He denied his "dear sons'" request on the plea that the
+Assisans would be brought to the verge of despair and their
+city to ruin.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_82" id="Footnote_82" href="#FNanchor_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a> The donor of this chapel was Gentile de Monteflori, a
+franciscan, created cardinal in 1298 by Boniface VIII.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_83" id="Footnote_83" href="#FNanchor_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a> Simone was born at Siena in 1283, and died at Avignon in
+1344. He belonged to the school of Duccio, though influenced
+to some degree by his contemporary Giotto, whose work at
+Assisi he had full opportunity to study.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_84" id="Footnote_84" href="#FNanchor_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a> <i>Central Italian Painters of the Renaissance</i>, B. Berenson, p. 47.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_85" id="Footnote_85" href="#FNanchor_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a> <i>Sketches of the History of Christian Art</i>, by Lord Lindsay,
+p. 134, vol. i.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_86" id="Footnote_86" href="#FNanchor_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a> <i>The Central Italian Painters of the Renaissance.</i> Bernhard
+Berenson, p. 48.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_87" id="Footnote_87" href="#FNanchor_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a> Built by the Orsini brothers, the founders of the Chapel
+del Sacramento, in the beginning of the fourteenth century.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_88" id="Footnote_88" href="#FNanchor_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a> It is curious that the early Umbrian painters had so little
+share in the decoration of the franciscan Basilica, the only
+other picture of the school is the one in the Chapel of St.
+Anthony the Abbot, and a fresco by some scholar of Ottaviano
+Nelli on the wall near the entrance of the Lower Church.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_89" id="Footnote_89" href="#FNanchor_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a> Not only had the friars to guard their own things, but also
+the vast treasures of the Popes who, especially during their sojourn
+at Avignon, found San Francesco a convenient store-house.
+See on p. <a href="#Page_20">20</a> for the story of how these goods were
+stolen by the citizens and the penalty this brought upon the
+town.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_90" id="Footnote_90" href="#FNanchor_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a> <i>La Benedizione di San Francesco</i>, Livorno, 1900.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_91" id="Footnote_91" href="#FNanchor_91"><span class="label">[91]</span></a> See chapter vi. p. <a href="#Page_171">171</a> for description of the frescoes here,
+and of those above the altar. For Cimabue's Madonna on the
+right wall of the Transept see chapter v. p. <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_92" id="Footnote_92" href="#FNanchor_92"><span class="label">[92]</span></a> In 1529 the campanile, which rather gives the impression
+of a watch-tower, was used by Captain Bernardino da
+Sassoferrato, as a sure place of refuge when the Prince of
+Orange entered Assisi with his victorious army. From its
+heights he kept his enemy at bay for three days, and finally
+escaped to Spello leaving the city a prey to another despot.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_93" id="Footnote_93" href="#FNanchor_93"><span class="label">[93]</span></a> Open to visitors at two o'clock.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_94" id="Footnote_94" href="#FNanchor_94"><span class="label">[94]</span></a> Cary's translation. Dante, <i>Inferno</i>, canto xxvii.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_95" id="Footnote_95" href="#FNanchor_95"><span class="label">[95]</span></a> St. Bonaventure was born in 1221 at Bagnora in Umbria,
+and became General of the franciscan order. Dante, in
+canto xii. of the <i>Paradiso</i>, leaves him to sing the praises
+of St. Dominic, just as the dominican divine St. Thomas
+Aquinas had related the story of St. Francis in the preceding
+canto.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_96" id="Footnote_96" href="#FNanchor_96"><span class="label">[96]</span></a> We have used Miss Lockhart's translation of St. Bonaventure's
+<i>Legenda Santa Francisci</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_97" id="Footnote_97" href="#FNanchor_97"><span class="label">[97]</span></a> J. Ruskin, <i>Mornings in Florence</i>, iii. Before the Soldan.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_98" id="Footnote_98" href="#FNanchor_98"><span class="label">[98]</span></a> xi. <i>Paradiso</i>, Cary's translation.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_99" id="Footnote_99" href="#FNanchor_99"><span class="label">[99]</span></a> Dante, <i>Paradiso</i>, xi., Cary's translation.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_100" id="Footnote_100" href="#FNanchor_100"><span class="label">[100]</span></a> A comparison may be made between the long and slender
+body of the saint here with that in the death of St. Francis
+in Sta. Croce, where the body is firmly drawn and of more
+massive proportions.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_101" id="Footnote_101" href="#FNanchor_101"><span class="label">[101]</span></a> As the hated enemies of the Baglioni the Fiumi are often
+mentioned in the chronicles of Matarazzo, and they played
+an important part in the history of their native city. They
+were Counts of Sterpeto, and the village of that name on the
+hill to the west of Assisi above the banks of the Chiaggio
+still belongs to the family.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_102" id="Footnote_102" href="#FNanchor_102"><span class="label">[102]</span></a> One of the first of the franciscans was Rufino, a nephew
+of Count Favorino's, whose holiness was such that in speaking
+of him to the other brethren St. Francis would call him
+St. Rufino.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_103" id="Footnote_103" href="#FNanchor_103"><span class="label">[103]</span></a> Bernhard Berenson, "Central Italian painters of the
+Renaissance," p. 86.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_104" id="Footnote_104" href="#FNanchor_104"><span class="label">[104]</span></a> Goethe's Werke, <i>Italiänische Reise</i>, I., vol. 27, pp. 184, <i>et
+seq.</i>, J. G. Cotta, 1829.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_105" id="Footnote_105" href="#FNanchor_105"><span class="label">[105]</span></a> The key is obtained from the Canonico Modestini's
+house, No. 27a Via S. Paolo.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_106" id="Footnote_106" href="#FNanchor_106"><span class="label">[106]</span></a> The legend that St. Francis was born in a stable only
+dates from the fifteenth century and arose out of the desire
+of the franciscans to make his life resemble that of Christ.
+The site of this stable, which is now a chapel, is of no
+interest whatever.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_107" id="Footnote_107" href="#FNanchor_107"><span class="label">[107]</span></a> See <i>Story of Perugia</i> (mediæval series), p. 211, for the legend
+of their origin in that town.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_108" id="Footnote_108" href="#FNanchor_108"><span class="label">[108]</span></a> The chapel is also called the <i>Chiesa di S. Caterina</i> because
+the members of that confraternity have charge of
+it. It is often open, but should it be closed, there is
+always some one about ready to obtain the key from the
+house in the same street Via Superba, now Via Principe
+di Napoli, No. 12, opposite Palazzo Bernabei.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_109" id="Footnote_109" href="#FNanchor_109"><span class="label">[109]</span></a> See Signor Alfonso Brizi's <i>Loggia dei Maestri Comacini in
+Assisi</i>, No. 1, April 185, of the <i>Atti dell' Accademia Properziana
+del Subasio in Assisi</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_110" id="Footnote_110" href="#FNanchor_110"><span class="label">[110]</span></a> Both the key of <i>San Rufinuccio</i> and <i>San Lorenzo</i> can be
+obtained through the sacristan of the Cathedral.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_111" id="Footnote_111" href="#FNanchor_111"><span class="label">[111]</span></a> This work has been admirably done by Signor Alfonso
+Brizi. In his <i>Rocca d'Assisi</i>, published in 1898, he has
+given a very interesting account of its many rulers and
+vicissitudes, and a full description of the building, together
+with all the documents relating to it.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_112" id="Footnote_112" href="#FNanchor_112"><span class="label">[112]</span></a> St. Francis called the Portiuncula Santa Maria degli
+Angeli, but now the name is more connected with the large
+church. See p. <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_113" id="Footnote_113" href="#FNanchor_113"><span class="label">[113]</span></a> St. Dominic was present at this famous gathering, and
+the <i>Fioretti</i> gives a curious account of the way in which he
+watched the doings of a brother saint, at first a little inclined
+to criticise his methods, so different to his own, but finally
+being won over by the franciscan doctrine of absolute
+poverty.</p>
+
+<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_114" id="Footnote_114" href="#FNanchor_114"><span class="label">[114]</span></a> Those who know the teaching of St. Francis (see
+<i>Fioretti</i>, chap. xiii.) will feel how the saint would have
+fought against this device for the expiation of sins, invented
+by the priests of Southern Italy. No Umbrian has ever
+sunk to such depths of self-abasement, and during all the
+first days of the "Perdono" festival they keep aloof, waiting
+till the pilgrims' departure before obtaining their
+indulgences.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Story of Assisi, by Lina Duff Gordon
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@@ -0,0 +1,11308 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Story of Assisi, by Lina Duff Gordon
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Story of Assisi
+
+Author: Lina Duff Gordon
+
+Illustrator: Nelly Erichsen
+             M. Helen James
+
+Release Date: January 12, 2012 [EBook #38559]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STORY OF ASSISI ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+  Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
+  been preserved.  Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
+
+  Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.
+
+
+
+
+The Story of Assisi
+
+
+
+
+     "Between Tupino, and the wave that falls
+     From blest Ubaldo's chosen hill, there hangs
+     Rich slope of mountain high, whence heat and cold
+     Are wafted through Perugia's eastern gate:
+     And Nocera with Gualdo, in its rear,
+     Mourn for their heavy yoke. Upon that side,
+     Where it doth break its steepness most, arose
+     A sun upon the world, as duly this
+     From Ganges doth: therefore let none who speak
+     Of that place, say Ascesi; for its name
+     Were lamely so deliver'd; but the East,
+     To call things rightly, be it henceforth styled."
+         DANTE, _Paradiso_, xi. (Cary's translation).
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: _P. Lunghi. Photo._
+  _Statue of St. Francis._
+  _by Andrea della Robbia in Sta. Maria degli Angeli._]
+
+
+
+
+The Story of Assisi
+
+by Lina Duff Gordon
+
+Illustrated by Nelly Erichsen
+  and M. Helen James
+
+London: J. M. Dent & Co.
+
+Aldine House, 29 and 30 Bedford Street
+
+Covent Garden, W.C. 1901
+
+
+
+
+_First Edition, December 1900_
+
+_Second Edition, October 1901_
+
+_All rights reserved_
+
+
+
+
+           _To
+         Margaret Vaughan_
+
+     _this small book is affectionately dedicated
+     in remembrance of days spent together
+     in the Umbrian country_
+
+
+
+
+NOTE
+
+
+My sincerest thanks are due to my aunt Mrs Ross, to Mrs Vaughan, Dr E.
+Percival Wright, M. Paul Sabatier, Mr Sidney Colvin, Sir William
+Markby and Mr Pearsall Smith, for the help rendered me in various ways
+during the writing of this book. I wish further to acknowledge the
+kindness of Mr Roger Fry who allowed me to quote from his lectures on
+Art delivered this year in London, before they were published in the
+_New Monthly Review_; and also the generous permission of Mr Anderson
+(Rome), and Signor Lunghi (Assisi), for allowing me to use their
+photographs. For the loan of old Italian books I am indebted to Cav.
+Bruschi, Librarian of the Marucelliana at Florence, to Professor
+Bellucci, Professor of the University of Perugia, and to Signor Rossi,
+proprietor of the Hotel Subasio at Assisi, whose intimate knowledge of
+his native town has been of great service to me.
+
+     L. D. G.
+
+     POGGIO GHERARDO,
+     FLORENCE, _October 1900_.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+     CHAPTER I
+                                                  PAGE
+     _War and Strife_                                           1
+
+     CHAPTER II
+
+     _The Umbrian Prophet_                                     39
+
+     CHAPTER III
+
+     _The Carceri, Rivo-Torto and Life at the
+     Portiuncula_                                              81
+
+     CHAPTER IV
+
+     _The building of the Basilica and Convent of
+     San Francesco. The Story of Brother
+     Elias_                                                   117
+
+     CHAPTER V
+
+     _Cimabue and his School at San Francesco_                149
+
+     CHAPTER VI
+
+     _The Paintings of Giotto and his School in the
+     Lower Church_                                            168
+
+     CHAPTER VII
+
+     _The Sienese Masters in the Lower Church.
+     The Convent_                                             198
+
+     CHAPTER VIII
+
+     _Giotto's Legend of St. Francis in the Upper
+     Church_                                                  228
+
+     CHAPTER IX
+
+     _St. Clare at San Damiano. The Church of
+     Santa Chiara_                                            258
+
+     CHAPTER X
+
+     _Other Buildings in the Town_                            289
+
+     CHAPTER XI
+
+     _The Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli. The
+     Feast of the Pardon of St. Francis or
+     the "Perdono d'Assisi"_                                  335
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+     _Statue of St. Francis by Andrea della Robbia in
+     Sta. Maria degli Angeli_
+     (_P. Lunghi--photo_)             _Photogravure-Frontispiece_
+
+                                                             PAGE
+
+     _The Temple of Minerva_                                    3
+
+     _The Eastern Slope of Assisi with the Castle,
+     from the Porta Cappucini_                                 10
+
+     _The Guelph Lion of Assisi_                               22
+
+     _The Arms of Assisi_                                      37
+
+     _Assisi in the time of St. Francis_                       38
+
+     _Via di S. Maria delle Rose_                              58
+
+     _The Arms of the Franciscans_                             80
+
+     _Hermitage of the Carceri_                                82
+
+     _The Carceri with a View of the Bridge_                   89
+
+     _Side Door of the Portiuncula built by St. Benedict_      99
+
+     _The Portiuncula in the time of St. Francis, from
+     the "Collis Paradisi"_                                   107
+
+     _Assisi from the Plain_                                  113
+
+     _Church and Convent of San Francesco_                    127
+
+     _San Francesco from the Plain_                           147
+
+     _The Lower Church_                                       150
+
+     _Looking through the doors of the Upper Church
+     towards the Porta S. Giacomo and the
+     Castle_                                                  157
+
+     _Plan of the Lower Church and Monastery of
+     San Francesco at Assisi_  (_facing_)                     168
+
+     _Choir and Transepts of the Lower Church_                172
+
+     _The Marriage of St. Francis with Poverty_
+     (_D. Anderson--photo_)                                   179
+
+     _The Old Cemetery of San Francesco_                      194
+
+     _The Knighthood of St. Martin by Simone Martini_
+     (_D. Anderson--photo_)                                   201
+
+     _Bird's Eye View of the Basilica and Convent
+     of San Francesco, from a drawing made in
+     1820_                                                    213
+
+     _San Francesco from the Tescio_                          217
+
+     _Staircase leading from the Upper to the Lower
+     Piazza of San Francesco_                                 220
+
+     _San Francesco from the Ponte S. Vittorino_              222
+
+     _A Friar of the Minor Conventual Order of St.
+     Francis_                                                 225
+
+     _St. Francis Renounces the World_
+     (_D. Anderson--photo_)                                   233
+
+     _Death of the Knight of Celano_
+     (_D. Anderson--photo_)                                   247
+
+     _Arms of the Franciscans from the Intarsia of
+     the Stalls_                                              257
+
+     _Door through which St. Clare left the Palazzo
+     Scifi_                                                   262
+
+     _San Damiano, showing the Window with the
+     Ledge whence St. Claire routed the Saracens_             268
+
+     _Santa Chiara_                                           282
+
+     _Santa Chiara from near the Porta Mojano_                287
+
+     _Campanile of San Rufino_                                290
+
+     _Door of San Rufino_                                     295
+
+     _The Dome and Apse of San Rufino from the
+     Canon's Garden_                                          298
+
+     _Campanile of Sta. Maria Maggiore_                       309
+
+     _Church of Sta. Maria Maggiore_                          310
+
+     _Church of S. Pietro_                                    313
+
+     _Confraternity of San Francescuccio in Via
+     Garibaldi_                                               315
+
+     _Monte Frumentorio in the Via Principe di
+     Napoli_                                                  320
+
+     _House of the Comacine Builders in the Via
+     Principe di Napole_                                      322
+
+     _Looking across the Assisan roofs towards the
+     East_                                                    325
+
+     _View of San Francesco from beneath the Castle
+     Walls_                                                   332
+
+     _The Garden of the Roses at Sta. Maria degli
+     Angeli_                                                  339
+
+     _The Fonte Marcella by Galeazzo Alessi_                  346
+
+     _An Assisan Garden in Via Garibaldi_                     347
+
+     _Umbrian Oxen_                                           349
+
+     _Women from the Basilicata_                              351
+
+     _San Francesco_                                          356
+
+     _Plan of Assisi_                                         372
+
+
+
+
+The Story of Assisi
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+_War and Strife_
+
+   "C'etait le temps des guerres sans pitie et des inimities
+   mortelles." H. TAINE. _Voyage en Italie._ _Perouse et Assise._
+
+
+All who ascend the hill of the Seraphic City must feel its
+indescribable charm--intangible, mysterious, and quite distinct from
+the beauty of the Umbrian valley. "Why," we ask ourselves, "this
+stillness and sense of marvellous peace in every church and every
+street?" And, as though conscious of our thoughts, a young Assisan,
+with a gesture of infinite sadness towards the large, desolate palaces
+and broad deserted streets, said, as we lingered on our way: "Ah!
+Signore mie, our city is a city of the dead--of memories only." As he
+spoke a long procession of a grey-clothed confraternity, bearing on
+their breasts the franciscan badge, preceded by a priest who walked
+beneath a baldachino, streamed out of a small church. Slowly they
+passed down the road, and then the priest turned into a wayside
+cottage where lay a dying woman, while the others waited outside under
+the olive trees. But the sound of their chanting and the tinkling of
+the small bell came to us as we leaned over the city walls. Of a truth
+we felt the religious life of the town was not dead: perchance, down
+those streets, now so still, men had passed along to battle during
+the sad turmoil of the middle ages, had hated and loved as well as
+prayed, with all the fervour of their southern nature. We must turn to
+the early chroniclers to find in their fascinating pages that Assisi
+has had her passionate past and her hours of deepest trial.
+
+Her origin goes back to the days when the Umbrians, one of the most
+ancient people of Italy, inhabited the country north and south of the
+Tiber, and lived a wild life in caves. But the past is very dim; some
+Umbrian inscriptions, a few flint arrow heads, and some hatchets made
+of jade found on the shore of lake Thrasymene are the only records we
+possess of these early settlers.
+
+If written history of their ways and origin is lacking, the later
+chroniclers of Assisi endeavour to supply with their gossip, what is
+missing. Rambling and strange as their legends often seem to us,
+nevertheless they contain a germ of truth, an image, faint but partly
+true of a time so infinitely far away. Most of the local Umbrian
+historians have awarded the honour of the foundation of their own
+particular town to the earliest heroes whom they happen to know of,
+and these are invariably Noah and his family. It is, therefore,
+curious to note that the Assisan chroniclers have departed from this
+custom and have woven for themselves a legend so different from the
+usual friar's tale: "Various are the opinions," says one of them,
+"concerning the first building of our city; but the most probable, and
+the most universally accepted by serious writers, is the one which
+gives Dardanus as her founder. In the year 713 after the Deluge, and
+865 years before the foundation of Rome, the first civil war in Italy
+broke out between the brothers Jasius and Dardanus, both sons of
+Electra; but the father of Jasius was Jupiter, while Dardanus was the
+son of Corythus, King of Cortona." The people of Umbria took sides,
+as some would have it that Jasius ought to be king in the place of the
+dead prince Corythus. Now it happened that Dardanus had pitched his
+tent on the slope of Mount Subasio, when a dream came to him that
+Jupiter and Minerva were preparing to assail the enemy, and that
+Jasius would be vanquished. On waking he determined, should his dream
+be true, to raise a temple to the goddess on the spot where he had
+slept. He went forth to battle, and with the help of the goddess drove
+the enemy back with great slaughter; Jasius was killed and they buried
+him on the field of battle. "Full well did Dardanus keep his vow, for
+in a few months there arose a wonderful building, now known as the
+sacred temple, dedicated to the true Minerva of Heaven, under the name
+of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Thus it is that the country round Assisi
+has been called _Palladios agros_, the fields of Pallas."[1]
+
+  [Illustration: THE TEMPLE OF MINERVA]
+
+And thus the monk dreams on about the Seraphic Province of Umbria; and
+we dream with him of the Umbrians who forsook the chase and their
+shepherd huts on the heights about Subasio, to gather round the
+marvellous temple built by the hero ere he went forth to found the
+city of Troy. People came from afar to look at the six-fluted columns,
+and while marvelling at a thing so fair, they resolved to build their
+homes within sight and under the shadow of the sacred walls. Here was
+the nucleus of a future town. The simple shelters of cane and
+brushwood were soon replaced by huts of a neater pattern made of
+wattle and clay, with earthen floors, rounded porches and pent roofs.
+The dwellers by the temple throve and prospered, and all was peace for
+a while, until the van-guard of that mysterious people, the Etruscans,
+appeared on the Umbrian horizon. We are told how Dardanus, while
+visiting the King of Lydia on his way to Troy, drew such a
+highly-coloured picture of the loveliness of Tuscany, the fruitful
+qualities of the soil, and the lightness of the air, that Tyrrhenus,
+the king's son, was immediately sent with a large army to take
+possession of so rich a province. Then came a struggle, and the
+Umbrian tribes were driven back south of the Tiber, which henceforth
+strictly defined the boundary between Umbria and Etruria.
+
+Immediately to the west of Assisi, and on the longest spur of hills
+which juts out into the valley of the Tiber, stood the now Etruscan
+city of Perugia, to which a band of Etruscans had lately immigrated.
+The huge, grim walls which grew up round it after the advent of the
+new settlers, the narrow pointed gateways, some guarded by heads of
+stern and unknown deities, the general menacing and ferocious aspect
+of its buildings, soon warned the smaller Umbrian cities of what they
+might in coming ages expect from her inhabitants. It is probable that
+skirmishes were frequent between the neighbouring towns of Assisi and
+Perugia, and to judge from the subterranean passages which still exist
+beneath the streets of the former place, we may gather that she was
+open to constant attacks, and that her inhabitants found it more
+prudent to disappear underground at the approach of enemies than to
+meet them in open battle. These subterranean galleries, cut in the
+soft tufa, extend for miles under the present city: branching out in
+all directions they form a veritable labyrinth of secret passages.
+Here swiftly and silently as the foe advanced, men and women with
+their children would disappear into the bowels of the earth, some
+being occasionally buried beneath masses of soil shaken down by the
+tramp of many feet above them. Repeated dangers of this sort at last
+decided the Assisans to meet their enemies in more war-like fashion,
+and to surround themselves--as Perugia had done--with stones and
+mortar. Soon the town bristled with towers and turreted gateways, and
+the houses, no longer built of wattle and mud, began to foreshadow the
+strongly fortified palaces of a later date. None too soon did Assisi
+prepare for war. In the year 309 B.C. the shrill sound of the Roman
+clarion echoed through the Cimminian forest. It roused Etruria to
+arms, proclaiming the fact that the Romans had dared to penetrate
+beyond this dangerous barrier which hitherto had been deemed
+impassable. The Etruscans and Umbrians, forgetting all their former
+strifes, now joined against the new power which threatened to crush
+their liberties. The battles which followed beneath the walls of
+Perugia, and by Bevagna in the plain of the Clitumnus, brought all
+Umbria, in the space of a single year, under the yoke of Rome.
+
+And now, although we leave the fields of legend and enter those of
+history, we find but little mention of Assisi: this is, however,
+easily accounted for. Built upon the unfrequented slopes of Mount
+Subasio, like a flower gradually opening to the sun's rays, she was
+far more secure than her neighbour Perugia who, commanding and
+commanded by the road from Rome to Ravenna, along which an army
+passed, stood in haughty and uncompromising pre-eminence. The
+comparatively obscure position of Assisi therefore gave her long
+periods of peace, and these she employed in building innumerable
+temples, a theatre, and a circus. It is impossible to excavate in any
+part of Assisi without coming upon relics of that time. Statues and
+busts of the Caesars, of gods and of consuls, are lying in dark corners
+of the communal palace, and broken fragments of delicately-wrought
+friezes and heads of goddesses, half buried in bushes of oleander,
+adorn the Assisan gardens. Beneath the foundations of the more modern
+houses, mosaic floors and frescoed walls have been found, showing that
+Assisi had her years of early splendour. But full of life and action
+as this Roman period was, it is as completely hidden from us as are
+the temples now buried beneath the present town. It passed rapidly
+away, and yet is of some importance in the history of the world as
+having witnessed the birth of Sex. Aurelius Propertius, great among
+the poets even at a time when Virgil, Horace, and a host of others
+were filling Italy with their song.
+
+Many an Umbrian town prides itself on being the birthplace of
+Propertius. The people of Spello have even placed a tablet in their
+walls to claim him as her son; but the Assisans, ignoring the rivalry
+of others, very quietly point to the many inscriptions of the
+Propertius' family collected beneath the portico of the Temple of
+Minerva. One may be noticed referring to C. Passennus Sergius Paullus
+Propertius Blaesus, said to be a lineal descendant of the poet, who is
+supposed to have married after the death of the fair Cynthia, and
+returned to his native valley to pass his last days in domestic
+tranquillity. Angelo Poliziano, on the margin of an early edition of
+the poet's works now in the Laurentian Library of Florence, has made a
+note to the effect that Propertius, as well as St. Francis, was born
+at Assisi; and certainly modern writers assign the honour to Assisi.
+
+The somewhat vague utterances of Propertius as to his native town seem
+to show that the position of Assisi, with regard to Perugia and the
+plain, more nearly coincides with his description than that of any
+other city in the valley or on the hills. To one inquisitive friend he
+answers: "Tullus, thou art ever entreating me in the name of our
+friendship to tell thee my country and my descent. If thou knowest
+Perusia, which gave a field of death and a sepulchre to our father and
+in Italy's hour of affliction, when domestic discord drove Rome's own
+citizens one against the other--(Ah! hills of Etruria, to me beyond
+measure have ye given sorrow, for ye suffered the limbs of my kinsman
+to be cast aside unburied, and denied the handful of dust to cover his
+bones)--there it was that, close above the margin of her plain spread
+below, Umbria, rich in fertile domains, gave me birth."[2] The kinsman
+spoken of here is a certain Gallus, who lost his life in B.C. 41, when
+Lucius Antonius was besieged in Perugia by Augustus. The horrors of
+the general massacre which followed the fall of the city left sad
+memories in the mind of Propertius, then a mere child. In the general
+confiscation of property after the battle of Philippi his family lost
+their estates. But poor as they were, Propertius was sent to Rome to
+study, where, recognised as the leader of a new school of poetry, he
+remained until shortly before his death, at the age of thirty-five.
+His paternal estates having been restored to him, he forsook the
+splendour of the Augustan court, the patronage of Maecenas, the
+friendship of Virgil, and returned to the Umbrian country where his
+first inspirations had been awakened. The contrast between a house and
+garden on the Palatine hill, in the midst of the stir of Roman life,
+and a farm by the silent stream flowing through the stillest of
+valleys, must have been great. But, judging from his description of
+the country, he seems to have fallen readily into rural ways, and
+loved to watch the herds of white oxen, dedicated to the service of
+the goddesses, grazing close to the banks of the Clitumnus. We may
+infer that he hunted the "timorous hare and birds" in the thick oak
+forest of the Spoletan valley, but, as he playfully tells us, he left
+"the hazardous boar alone," for physical courage was not one of his
+characteristics.
+
+From the plain his eyes were often raised in the direction of Assisi,
+and to his familiarity with her towers we owe this exquisite
+description of his birthplace, which, perhaps out of modesty, as he
+alludes to his own fame, he places in the mouth of a soothsayer:
+"Ancient Umbria gave thee birth from a noted household. Do I mistake,
+or do I touch rightly the region of your home, where misty Mevania
+stands among the dews of the hill-girt plain, and the waters of the
+Umbrian lake grow warm the summer through, and where on the summit of
+mounting Asis rise the walls to which your genius has added glory."[3]
+
+Nothing happens, or at least nothing is mentioned in Assisan
+chronicles until Christianity stealthily worked its way up from Rome
+about the third century. Then bloodshed followed during a period of
+darkness when Christians and pagans divided the town into factions by
+their bitter fights for religion. At first the Christians suffered,
+and many were martyred in the Umbrian rivers, but only to triumph
+later when Roman Assisi soon vanished and Christian basilicas were
+built on the site of pagan temples. Although, after the Roman period,
+we find Assisi more nearly linked with the general history of Italy,
+she appears uninfluenced by outside events, and her atmosphere of
+remoteness remains unimpaired. Thus we may say that Huns, Franks, and
+Lombards merely passed by and left no lasting mark upon the city. For
+a moment she was suddenly aroused by the tempestuous arrival of one or
+other of their leaders, but once the danger was past she returned to
+her calm sleep upon the mountain side.
+
+In 545 Totila, on his march to Rome, arrived before the walls of
+Assisi which were gallantly defended for the Emperor Justinian by
+Siegfried the Goth, but unfortunately he being killed in a skirmish
+with the Huns, the disheartened citizens reluctantly opened their
+gates to the enemy. For the first time in her annals (the Roman
+occupation had been peaceful enough) a foreigner--a tyrant set foot in
+her streets as master. But the restless Totila soon began to scan the
+country round for other cities to attack. Becoming aware of the large
+and wealthy city of Perugia perched upon the western hill, he sallied
+forth to capture a bigger prey, and Assisi enjoyed a further spell of
+peace.
+
+  [Illustration: THE EASTERN SLOPE OF ASSISI WITH THE CASTLE, FROM THE
+  PORTA CAPPUCCINI]
+
+In reading the long-winded chronicles it is often difficult to gather
+to which power the various small towns at this time belonged. One
+point is, however, clear, that during endless contentions between the
+Popes and the Greek, and later the German Emperors, the Umbrian
+cities were often left to manage their own affairs, and because of the
+periods of rest which they thus enjoyed and used in their individual
+ways, we are inclined to speak of them as republics. For a long time
+Assisi remained annexed to the Duchy of Spoleto, then under the rule
+of the Lombard Dukes whose advent had filled the different cities in
+the valley with Arian Christians, unfriendly to the Papacy. Assisi,
+together with other towns swerved from her allegiance to the Pope, and
+it is perhaps on this account that Charlemagne in 773 with his
+"terrible and fierce followers" came to besiege her. They laid the
+country waste, and made many attacks upon Assisi which met with stout
+resistance; but while prowling round the walls one night they found
+the main drain, and stealing through it they were able to discover the
+weakest part of the town. Next night they returned well armed, slew
+the guards who were keeping watch by the midnight fires, and before
+the citizens could rush to arms, the gates were opened to Charlemagne.
+The army passed in, her citizens were put to the sword, and the town
+razed to the ground.
+
+"Thus," says a chronicler, "Assisi bereft of her inhabitants, found
+herself an unhappy widow. Then was the most clement emperor grieved,
+and ordering that the city should be rebuilt, he placed therein a new
+colony of Christians of the Roman faith, and the city was restored,
+and in it the Divine Worship."[4]
+
+A small arched doorway ornamented with a delicate frieze of foliage
+still remains as a record of the rebuilding of the city by
+Charlemagne's Lombard workmen. The stone is blackened, the tracery
+worn away. Few find this dark corner in the Piazza delle Rose, and the
+people wonder at those who stop to look, for "it is ugly and very
+old," they say.
+
+It was probably at this time, towards the end of the eighth century,
+that the Rocca d'Assisi was built. This made her a more important
+factor in Umbrian politics; and leaders of armies, who hitherto had
+paid her but a hurried visit, now vied with each other to possess a
+city with so fair a crown. The citizens had chosen for the site of the
+castle the part where the hill rises in a sudden peak above the town,
+looking to the north across a deep ravine towards the mountains of
+Gualdo and Nocera. Above the main building and the four crenelated
+towers soared the castle keep; from the ramparts started two lines of
+walls which, going east and west, gathered the town as it were within
+a nest. At intervals rose forts connected by a covered passage, and
+tall towers guarded the walls where they joined the city gates. The
+Rocca d'Assisi with this chain of walls bristling with iron spikes and
+towers, complete in strength and perfect in architecture, looked down
+upon the town like some guarding deity, and was the pride of every
+citizen. It was no gloomy stronghold such as the French kings erected
+in the woods of Tourraine, but built of the yellow Subasian stone it
+seemed more like a mighty palace with windows large and square, whence
+many a _condottiere_ and many a noble prisoner leant out to look upon
+the splendid sweep of country from Perugia to Spoleto.
+
+Proud as the citizens were of their new-born importance they soon
+regretted the calmer days of their obscurity. By the twelfth
+century they were torn between the Pope, the Emperor, and their own
+turbulent factions, for even in the smaller towns the cries of Guelph
+and Ghibelline were beginning to be heard. Whenever German
+potentates--"the abhorred Germans" as the chroniclers call them--had
+their hands well clenched upon an Umbrian town, the citizens turned
+imploring eyes towards Rome. The promise of municipal liberty was the
+bait which every pontiff knew well how to use for his own profit. The
+German, on the other hand, troubled not to use diplomacy as a means
+to gain his ends, but brought an army to storm the town, and took up
+his residence in the castle, whence he could hear the murmurings of
+the citizens below planning to drive him out of their gates. The first
+distinguished but unwelcome guest in the Rocca d'Assisi was Frederick
+Barbarossa. He was, however, too much occupied in his career of
+conquest to waste more than a few weeks in Umbria, and in 1195 we find
+Conrad of Suabia, who in the annals of the time is known by the
+nickname of "the whimsical one," in charge of the castle, with the
+title of Count of Assisi. Conrad was also Duke of Spoleto, but he
+preferred the fortress of Assisi as a residence and spent some two
+years there to the annoyance of the citizens, who were constrained to
+be more or less on their good behaviour. With him in those days was a
+small but important person, who, at the age of two, had been elected
+King of Germany and Italy. This was Frederick II, and the legend
+recounts how he was born in the Piazza Minerva beneath a tent hastily
+erected for the occasion, and in his third year was baptised in the
+Cathedral of San Rufino, amidst a throng of cardinals, bishops,
+Assisan priors and nobles. It would, indeed, be strange that he, who
+later was to prove a thorn in the side of many a Pope, should have
+been born and nurtured in the Seraphic City.
+
+The Assisans soon wearied of the German yoke, but unaided they could
+not throw it off and it needed the timely intervention of Innocent
+III, to rid them of Conrad's presence. The Pope, who had been quietly
+waiting an opportunity to regain his lost Umbrian towns, felt himself
+powerful enough now that the Emperor Henry VI, was dead, to send
+haughty commands to Conrad. He was bidden to meet Innocent at Narni
+where he solemnly made over his possessions to the Church. Thus left
+to themselves, the Assisans, with cries of "Liberty and the Pope,"
+rushed on the castle to tear it down. Built to be their safeguard, it
+proved their greatest danger, and they determined that no other tyrant
+should find shelter within its walls. While the Assisans were
+rejoicing in their freedom, and endeavouring to guard against the
+constant attacks of the Perugians, the big world outside was being
+torn and rent by a medley of events which was carrying men's thoughts
+forward in the swift current of a fresh era. Everywhere a new spirit
+was spreading--"the fraternising spirit" it has been called. In the
+cities men were joining together in guilds, heralding the
+commonwealths; while, in the country, bands of people, under the names
+of Patarins, Albergenses, Poor Men of Lyons, etc., raised the standard
+of revolt yet higher against their feudal and spiritual lords. A
+contemporary writer speaks of thirty-two heresies as being rampant in
+Italy at this time. Men were eager and full of energy, finding relief
+through many channels that set all Italy in a ferment. But amidst the
+confusion of wars and heresies the Papal power grew ever stronger,
+until, with the accession of Innocent III, the claims of a temporal
+ruler were blended with spiritual rights. The Marches of Ancona,
+Umbria, and the seven hills of Rome belonged alike to him, while he
+was powerful enough to excommunicate cities, kingdoms, and emperors at
+his pleasure, and rule all with a rod of iron. The magnificent designs
+planned by Hildebrand seemed to triumph under Innocent, and yet the
+papal horizon was not without its clouds.
+
+     "Ah Constantine! of how much ill was cause,
+     Not thy conversion, but those rich domains
+     That the first wealthy Pope received of thee,"[5]
+
+groans Dante, in writing of the condition of the Church, and his cry
+reaches back to the time of which we write. Jacques de Vitry, who was
+often at the court of Innocent, also speaks with bitterness of the
+depravity of the priests. They were, he tells us, "deceiving as foxes,
+proud as bulls, avaricious and insatiable as the minotaur."
+
+Innocent III, though scheming and ambitious, was a man of lofty
+character, and no one watched with so much anguish the rising storms
+which threatened to shake the mighty fabric of the Papacy. In a moment
+of discouragement he is said to have exclaimed that fire and sword
+were needed to heal the wounds made by the simoniacal priests, and for
+a long time he in vain sought a remedy for those ills. But salvation
+was at hand, and it came from the Umbrian mountains, as the fresh
+breeze comes which suddenly breaks upon the budding trees in
+springtime.
+
+Within the narrow circuit of the Assisan walls arose a figure of
+magical power who drew men to him by the charm of his mysticism and
+the spell of his ardent nature. It is the sweet-souled saint of
+mediaeval Italy--St. Francis of Assisi--who now illuminates this quiet
+corner of the world.
+
+Francis Bernardone was born in the year 1182, when, as we have seen,
+the Church was harrowed by a hundred ills. He passed a gay youth, free
+from every care, and tested all the pleasures that riches could
+procure. Though the son of a merchant he consorted with the noblest of
+the Assisan youths, who, partly on account of his father's wealth,
+partly because of his gaiety and love of splendour, were glad to
+accept him as an equal. All looked to the high-spirited, gifted
+Francis as the leader at every feast, the organiser of every
+entertainment, and when Perugia blew her war-trumpet he rode out to
+battle side by side with the Assisan cavaliers. Such, in a few words,
+was his position in Assisi when in his twenty-second year, after a
+severe illness which brought him to the brink of the grave, he
+resolved to follow to the letter the precept of the Gospel and lead
+the life of the first apostles. So complete was his conversion that
+he, the rich merchant's son, was to be seen walking through the
+streets with bricks on his back for the repair of the ruined churches
+of Assisi, while his former companions drew back and laughed as he
+passed them. But their derision was of short duration, for the charm
+they had felt in former days had by no means passed away. Holiness
+could never make him sad, and in the human tenderness and joyousness
+of his nature lay the secret of that power which was strong enough,
+the Assisans soon discovered, to lead them where he would--though it
+was now by a new road he travelled.
+
+The great movement, which began at Assisi and spread throughout Europe
+in a very few years, can only be likened to that witnessed by the lake
+of Galilee. Rich citizens gave all to the poor; the peasants left the
+vintage and sold their oxen, to join the ever-swelling crowd of
+bare-footed disciples who wandered through cities and into distant
+lands bringing comfort and words of peace to all they met. Like a ray
+of brilliant sunshine St. Francis dispersed the gloom of the middle
+ages, teaching men that the qualities of mercy and love were to be
+looked for from God instead of the inflexible justice that had
+overshadowed a religion intended to be all light. He walked the earth
+with joyous steps, inviting all to come with him and see how beautiful
+was the world; he looked upwards, praising God in bursts of eloquent
+song for the rain that fed the flowers, the birds that sang to him in
+the woods, and the blueness of his Umbrian sky. How different from the
+stern, orthodox saints who passed through the loveliest valleys with
+downcast eyes for fear of some hidden temptation or of some
+interruption to their prayers! With such a founder it is hardly
+surprising that the order of St. Francis spread and multiplied,
+becoming a great world force, as great and perhaps greater than that
+of St. Dominic. We get an interesting picture of the change he wrought
+throughout Italy and of the enthusiasm he kindled among his followers
+in a letter of Jacques de Vitry; from this we quote at length, for,
+being written by a contemporary of the saint, its value is very great.
+
+"While I was at the pontifical court I saw many things which grieved
+me to the heart. Everyone is so preoccupied with secular and temporal
+things, with matters concerning kings and kingdoms, litigations and
+lawsuits, that it is almost impossible to talk on religious matters.
+
+"Yet I found one subject for consolation in those lands: in that many
+persons of either sex, rich, and living in the great world, leave all
+for the love of Christ and renounce the world. They are called the
+Friars Minor, and are held in great respect by the Pope and the
+Cardinals. They, on their part, care nought for things temporal, and
+strive hard every day to tear perishing souls from the vanities of
+this world and to entice them into their ranks. Thanks be to God,
+their labour has already borne fruit, and they have gained many souls:
+inasmuch as he who listens to them brings others, and thus one
+audience creates another.
+
+"They live according to the rule of the primitive church, of which it
+is written: 'The multitude of believers were as one heart and one
+soul.' In the day they go into the cities and the villages to gain
+over souls and to work; in the night they betake themselves to
+hermitages and solitary places and give themselves up to
+contemplation.
+
+"The women live together near to cities in divers convents; they
+accept nought, but live by the labour of their hands. They are much
+disturbed to find themselves held in greater esteem, both by the
+clergy and the laity, than they themselves desire.
+
+"The men of this order meet once a year in some pre-arranged place, to
+their great profit, and rejoice together in the Lord and eat in
+company; and then, with the help of good and honest men, they adopt
+and promulgate holy institutions, approved by the Pope. After this
+they disperse, going about in Lombardy, Tuscany, and even in Apulia
+and Sicily, for the rest of the year.... I think it is to put the
+prelates to shame, who are like dogs unable to bark, that the Lord
+wills to save many souls before the end of the world, by means of
+these poor simple friars."[6]
+
+Certainly one of the most remarkable events in mediaeval history was
+the result of the teaching of St. Francis upon his own and future
+generations. In his native city the strength of his personal influence
+and the love and veneration which he excited was extraordinary. But we
+notice even a stranger fact; with his death this holy influence
+apparently vanished, and it is possible that the memory of the saint
+is dearer to the hearts of the Assisans in what we are inclined to
+call the prosaic tedium of our trafficking nineteenth century, than it
+was in the years immediately following his death. Later centuries have
+shown us that his teaching and his presence there were not in vain.
+Assisi, down to our own times, has continued to be the Mecca of
+thousands of pilgrims. Her churches bear the record of infinite early
+piety, for when art was in its early prime the most famous masters
+from Tuscany were called upon to decorate the Franciscan Basilica and
+leave their choicest treasures there as tributes to the immortal glory
+of the saint. But the note of war rings louder than the song of praise
+and love for many years to come in all the Assisan chronicles, and
+grass and weeds grow up to choke, though not to kill, the blessed seed
+that Francis sowed and did not live to tend. No sooner did the gates
+of death close upon that sweet and genial spirit, than war, lust,
+strife and pestilence burst upon the very people he had so tenderly
+loved. The story of Assisi becomes, as it had never been before, a
+list of murders--of struggles to the death for individual power, and
+of wars which made the fair Umbrian country a desolate and cruel waste
+for months and even years.
+
+Each town looked with hatred upon its powerful rival, and the communal
+armies were for ever meeting in the plain by the Tiber to match their
+strength and see if some small portion at least of a city's domains
+could not be wrested from her. The bitterest and most pronounced
+enemies in the valley were undoubtedly Assisi and Perugia. Their feuds
+date back to the twelfth century; but even before the Christian era
+these two cities of the hills had marked each other as a foe for the
+one was Umbrian, the other Etruscan, and they merely continued the
+rivalry of their founders. It is often difficult to discover the cause
+of each separate war, but it may, as a general rule, be traced to
+Perugia's inborn love of fighting, and to her restless spirit which
+led her to storm each town in turn. From her eyrie she looked straight
+down upon half the Umbrian country, and gazing daily on so fair a land
+the desire for possession grew ever stronger. Many towns were forced
+to submit to her sway, and by the thirteenth century she was the
+acknowledged mistress of Umbria. It is, therefore, with surprise and
+admiration that we watch the undaunted struggle of Assisi against a
+tyrant whom she hated with a hatred quite Dantesque in its bitterness
+and strength. Many menacing towers were built on either side of the
+valley, and heralds were continually sent between the two towns with
+insulting messages to goad the citizens forward into battle. When
+Perugia was known to be preparing for an attack upon Assisi, the
+castles and villages around hastened to break their allegiance to the
+weaker city and ally themselves with the Perugian griffin. Assisi was
+thus often obliged to defend herself unaided against the Umbrian
+tyrant. When, in 1321 Perugia declared war against "this most wicked
+city of Assisi" whose crime consisted in having fallen under the rule
+of the Ghibelline party of her citizens,[7] both communes were in need
+of money as their bellicose habits had proved expensive. Busily,
+therefore, they set to work about procuring it, and in a highly
+characteristic manner Perugia sold her right of fishing in Thrasymene
+for five years, while the citizens of the Seraphic City entered by
+force into the sacristy of San Francesco and carried off a quantity of
+sacred spoils. Gold ornaments, censers, chalices, crucifixes of rare
+workmanship and precious stuffs, were divided into lots and sold,
+partly to Arezzo for 14,000 golden florins, and partly to Florence for
+a larger sum. Now these things did not even belong to the Franciscans,
+but had been carefully stored in the sacristy by the Pope and his
+cardinals during their last visit to the town. Great, therefore, was
+the wrath at the Papal Court when news came of the sacrilegious
+robbery, and without a moment's delay a bull of excommunication was
+fulminated from Avignon. For thirty-eight years Assisi lay under the
+heavy sentence of an interdict, and, except for the feast of the
+"Pardon of St. Francis," the church doors were closed and the church
+bells were silent. But not a whit did the people care for the anger of
+a distant Pope, and it is related that when the two friars brought the
+bull of excommunication to Ser Muzio di Francesco, the leader of the
+robbers, they were flogged within an inch of their lives, and further,
+they were made to swallow the seals of lead which hung from the Papal
+document.
+
+The Assisans, having obtained the necessary funds, set to work to
+defend themselves against the enemy who were to be seen rolling their
+heavy catapults along the dusty roads. A proud historian says, "they
+saw without flinching 500 horsemen galloping round their walls," and
+with a heroism worthy of so good a cause, determined to be buried in
+the ruins of their city sooner than cede one step to their abhorred
+enemies the Perugians. They closed the shops, barred the houses and
+threw the chains across the streets to stop advancing cavalry; every
+artisan turned soldier, every noble watched from the tower of his
+palace. Not only were they guarding their own liberties, but they
+feared for the safety of the body of St. Francis, which the Perugians,
+ever prowling day and night about the walls, were anxious to carry
+off. The siege, it is said, lasted a year, when the Assisans were
+forced to give way and open their gates to the enemy, who sacked the
+town, "killing more than one hundred of the most wicked citizens, to
+wit, all those who fought against the city of Perugia." Then came a
+perilous moment, for many, not content with a barbarous pillage,
+wished to destroy Assisi altogether. Fortunately a wily Perugian,
+Massiolo di Buonante, stood up in her defence, arguing that "Assisi
+being now in their power, it were better to possess her fortified, and
+well provided against any new attack of the Ghibelline party."[8] His
+words had due effect, but still the town suffered horribly, and her
+walls only lately built were in greater part razed to the ground. The
+chains that guarded the streets together with the bars and keys of the
+gates were taken back to Perugia, where, until a century ago, they
+hung "as glorious trophies" from the claws of the bronze griffon
+outside the Palazzo Pubblico. Before leaving, the Perugians gave their
+orders to the now submissive city. The Guelphs were to live within the
+ancient circle of walls in the upper and more fortified part of the
+town, while the Ghibellines were left in the undefended suburbs.
+
+  [Illustration: THE GUELPH LION OF ASSISI]
+
+They further commanded that each year, on the feast of St. Ercolano,
+the Assisans should bring them a banner "worth at least 25 golden
+florins, _in signum subjectionis_." This was the greatest ignominy of
+all, and rankled even more deeply in the hearts of the citizens of
+Assisi than the fact of their being governed by Perugian officials.
+The delivery of the yearly tribute was performed in a manner highly
+characteristic of the times and of the love of petty tyranny and
+display peculiar to the mediaeval towns. An Assisan horseman mounted on
+a splendidly caparisoned charger brought the hated emblem to lay
+before the Priors of Perugia, who robed in crimson, with heavy golden
+chains about their necks, waited at the foot of the campanile of San
+Lorenzo. Close to them stood four mace bearers and trumpeters with
+white griffins painted on the red satin streamers which hung from the
+silver trumpets. Nothing was neglected that would impress her subjects
+with the dignity of her hill-set city. All the Perugians were
+assembled, and in their name the Priors promised to defend Assisi
+against her enemies and to preserve her from the yoke of tyrants.
+Having uttered this solemn mockery, they gave the Podesta of Assisi a
+sealed book wherein were written the laws to be observed in return for
+the inestimable favours granted; the book was not to be opened until
+he and his retinue had returned to their own city. The spirit of the
+Assisans was by no means crushed by their misfortunes, and shortly
+after the events we have just narrated they issued an edict with a
+pomp worthy of Perugia herself which fairly puzzled the Priors of that
+city. All Perugians holding land in Assisi were herein ordered to pay
+the taxes usually demanded of "strangers" possessing property in the
+territory; further, the Assisans proclaimed their firm determination
+no longer to observe any orders given to them by the Commune of
+Perugia. This audacity was, however, soon checked. Perugia issued an
+order to the effect that these statutes, and these alone, which were
+decreed by herself were to be valid in Assisi, all others were
+worthless. Assisi therefore remained subject to Perugia till 1367,
+when Cardinal Albornoz who was engaged in recovering the allegiance of
+the Papal States, entered her gates. He was received with wild
+enthusiasm by the citizens, for they hailed him as their deliverer
+from the hated yoke of the Perugians. The Assisans had every reason to
+rejoice in this change of masters, as the Cardinal allowed them to
+govern their town like a free republic; he rebuilt the walls
+destroyed during the last siege, and the castle which had also
+suffered much from the Perugian soldiery. The people were delighted,
+and their artists were soon busily employed in painting the gilded
+arms of the church on gateways and on palaces.
+
+During his brief sojourn in Assisi the war-like Cardinal had found
+such peace as he had probably not often known before, and such was his
+love for the church of San Francesco that he added to it several
+chapels and chose a place for his tomb within its walls. He died at
+Viterbo; and only five months after the Assisans had welcomed him with
+such rejoicing, they went with torches and candles, to bear his dead
+body back to San Francesco, the Priors, says a chronicler, spending
+145 florins upon the crimson gowns they bought for this occasion.
+
+Days of peace and liberty were short, and the Assisans were soon
+groaning beneath the enormous taxes laid upon them by the zealous
+ministers of the Pope. In 1376 their indignation rose to such a pitch
+that they broke into open rebellion, and joined in the war-cry against
+the Church, which was to be heard in other towns of Tuscany and
+Umbria. The citizens besieged the Legates in their palaces and ordered
+them with haughty words to depart; so seeing it was safer to obey,
+they returned to Rome without a word. "Because of their love for the
+holy Pontiff, whose servants they were, the Assisans used no violence
+towards them," but having got their way with polite bows accompanied
+them safely beyond the city gates. But at this time, when all was war
+and conspiracy, there seemed no chance of a free life again for the
+people. No sooner had one tyrant been disposed of than another rose to
+take his place. When news of these events reached the Perugians they
+thought it a good opportunity to try and again get possession of the
+town, accordingly envoys were sent "just to put things in order" as
+they expressed it; but the Assisans shut the gates of the city in
+their faces and informed them that in future they intended to manage
+their own affairs. We cannot say that their endeavours were crowned
+with success, the nobles fought among themselves, while the mob was
+ever ready for any kind of novelty. It is related how in the year 1398
+the Assisans changed their mind three times in one day as to who
+should be their lord. "_Evviva_ the Church" was the first cry; the
+second, "_Evviva_ the people of Perugia"; and lastly, "_Evviva_ Messer
+Imbroglia," a roving adventurer who alternately fought for the Duke of
+Milan and the Pope, and finally entered Assisi at the head of a large
+cavalcade as Captain and Gonfalonier of the city.
+
+In the early centuries Assisi had bravely fought for her independence
+and held her own fairly well; but in the fourteenth century a sudden
+whirlwind swept across the country threatening to destroy the last
+remnant of her freedom. At this time the _condottieri_ were busy
+carving out principalities for themselves, and one after another they
+marched through the land forcing the towns to bear their yoke. Assisi,
+not without a sharp struggle, fell a prey to Biordo Michelotti and
+Braccio Fortebraccio, successive despots of Perugia; and the citizens
+found themselves for the next twenty years in turn the vassals of
+Guidantonio of Montefeltro, of Sforza, and of the Pope. In 1442
+Perugia was governed, in the name of the Pope, by Niccolo Piccinino,
+successor to Fortebraccio as the leader of the Bracceschi troops, and
+consequently a successor to the rivalry with Francesco Sforza, Duke of
+Milan. Assisi, therefore, who had spontaneously given herself to
+Sforza, preferring the tyranny of strangers to the yoke of Perugia,
+was not likely to be favourably looked on by Piccinino, and sooner or
+later he determined to besiege her. But just at this time Perugia had
+made peace with all the world, and, delighted with this novel state of
+things, she rang the great bell of the Commune, lit beacon fires on
+the hills, and sent a special messenger to Assisi to proclaim the
+fact. The Assisans, with more courage than discretion, cursed the
+messenger and those who sent him, saying they had half a mind to kill
+him. "Return with this message," they cried, "say unto those who sent
+thee, that they try to wipe us from the face of the earth and then
+send words of peace. But we will have war and only war." This
+insulting message was duly delivered to the astonished priors, and
+that night the beacon fires were extinguished. When news reached
+Assisi of the vast preparations in Perugia for war, these hasty words
+were regretted. Luckily Francesco Sforza sent the Assisans a good
+supply of troops, and every day they hoped for the arrival of his
+brother Alessandro.
+
+The month that followed was disastrous to Assisi, and the account of
+the war given us by the Perugian chronicler Graziani who took part in
+the siege, brings before us vividly the many stages she had to pass
+through before arriving at the calm, seraphic days of later years.
+
+By the end of October 1442, Niccolo Piccinino, alluded to always as
+_el Capitano_, arrived in the plain below Assisi with some 20,000 men,
+and took up his quarters in the Franciscan monastery of San Damiano.
+His first intention was to take the town by assault, but on surveying
+the fortifications and walls and the impregnable castle, he deemed it
+wiser to wait quietly until hunger should have damped the valour of
+the citizens. Help, however, came to him from another quarter. It is
+believed that a Franciscan friar, perhaps one of those with whom he
+lodged at San Damiano, betrayed to him a way into the town by means
+of an unused drain.
+
+"On Wednesday, being the 28th day of November, the Captain's people
+entered Assisi by an underground drain, which, beginning below the
+smaller fortress towards the Carceri, enters Assisi near the
+market-place below the castle. There Pazaglia, Riccio da Castello, and
+Nicolo Brunoro, with more than 300 men-at-arms, had seen to clearing
+the said sewer and cutting through some iron bars at the exit placed
+by the Assisans so that none might enter; and Pazaglia and his
+companions worked so well that they entered with all their people one
+by one. And when they had entered they emerged inside the walls, and
+advanced without any noise, holding close to the side of the said
+walls so as not to be seen, although the darkness of the night was
+great and drizzling rain was falling. But it happened that one of
+those within passed by with a lighted torch in his hand, and, hearing
+and seeing people, said several times: 'Who goes there.' At last
+answer was made to him: 'Friends, friends.' The bearer of the torch
+went but a little farther before he began to cry out: 'To arms, to
+arms. Awake, awake, for the enemy is within.' So a great tumult arose
+throughout the town. Then Pazaglia and his companions, finding they
+were discovered, mounted the walls and shouted to those outside:
+'Ladders, ladders. Enter, enter.'"[9]
+
+With cries of "Braccio, Braccio," the captain led his men rapidly
+through the town, burning the gate, killing the citizens, and
+pillaging every palace as they passed along. When Alessandro Sforza
+who had stolen into Assisi the night before, "to comfort and encourage
+the citizens," found that the enemy was within he hurried with a few
+Assisan notables to take refuge in the castle. From the tower-girt
+hill he looked down upon the scene of carnage--and what a sight it was
+as pictured by Graziani!
+
+"The anguish, the noise, and the screams of women and children! God
+alone knows how fearful a thing it was to see them all dishevelled;
+some tearing their faces, some beating their breasts, one weeping for
+a father, one for a son, another for a brother, as, crying with loud
+voices, they prayed to God for death.... But, in truth, these same
+Assisans did themselves much injury, greatly adding to their own
+trouble. They might have saved many more of their chattels had they
+trusted the Perugians, but rather did they trust the strangers, and
+this to their undoing, for the said strangers deceived them. Thus was
+proved the truth of that proverb which says: 'The offender never
+pardons.' Often aforetime had they offended the Commune of Perugia as
+we have seen. Even at this moment, when its forces were encamped
+outside Assisi, they constantly stood on their walls and hurled
+insulting and menacing words at the Perugians, defying and threatening
+them, whom for this reason peradventure they did not trust.... Also on
+the same day, while the city was being sacked, a multitude of women
+with their children and goods, took sanctuary in Santa Chiara; and
+when the captain passed and saw so many women and children sheltered
+there, he said to the women, especially to the nuns of Santa Chiara,
+that it was no longer a safe refuge for them, and if they would choose
+where they wished to go he would send them thither in safety. Then,
+naming to them all the neighbouring towns, he lastly offered to place
+them in safety in the city of Perugia. But when they heard the name of
+Perugia, first the nuns and then the other women replied, 'May Perugia
+be destroyed by fire.' And when the captain heard this answer, he
+immediately cried, 'Pillage, pillage!' Thus was everything plundered
+and ruined--the convent with the nuns, the women and the children, and
+much booty was there...."[10]
+
+Assisi, now the shell of her former self, seemed indeed a city of the
+dead. Through her deserted streets, running with the blood of the
+slain, echoed the sound of falling rafters and crumbling palaces,
+while bon-fires flamed on the piazza fed with the public archives by
+the destroying Perugians. Across the Tiber were to be seen the unhappy
+citizens being driven like droves of cattle by their captors up the
+hill to the city they hated. There the women, with their children
+clinging round their necks, were sold in the market-place as slaves,
+and exposed to the cruellest treatment by their masters. Even tiny
+children of four and five years old were sold; a maiden, we are told,
+fetched fifteen ducats, and many were bought, sometimes for the love
+of God, and sometimes as maidservants. Every day fresh booty was
+brought in, and the Perugians fought over the gold chalices, missals,
+and other treasures robbed from churches and convents; but these
+brought lower prices, for even Perugian consciences seem to have been
+troubled with scruples, and superstitious fear kept them from buying
+stolen church property. While the slave market was proceeding amidst
+the clanging of bells proclaiming the victory, the Priors of Perugia
+sat in their council hall of the great Palazzo Pubblico discussing how
+they could bring about the total annihilation of Assisi. The following
+curious letter was finally written, sealed, and sent to Niccolo
+Piccinino by five ambassadors who were to tempt him to do the deed
+with a bribe of 15,000 ducats:
+
+"Your illustrious Signory being well aware how that city has ever
+been the scandal of this one, and that now the time has come to take
+this beam from out of our eyes, we pray and supplicate your
+illustrious Signory, in the name of this city and of the State, that
+it may please you to act in such wise that this your city shall never
+again have reason to fear her; and so, as appears good to all the
+community, it will be well to raze her to the ground, saving only the
+churches. And this will be the most singular among other favours that
+your illustrious Signory has ever done to us."[11]
+
+"Trust in my words and trust in my deeds," replied Piccinino to the
+bearers of this truly mediaeval letter; but, adds the chronicler, he
+refused his consent to their cowardly scheme for the destruction of
+the town. It is believed that he was acting upon orders received from
+Eugenius IV, who appears as the benevolent genius of Assisi, until, as
+the local historians tell us with rage, the Pope offered to sell them
+to the Commune of Perugia, when his clemency seems due solely to the
+fact that the papal coffers were sadly empty. Luckily the Perugians,
+somewhat in debt owing to the late war, were unable to pay the price,
+and Assisi thus escaped being given "like a lamb to the butcher,"
+while her enemy missed the chance "of removing that beam from out of
+her eye."
+
+From this time onward Assisi remained in the possession of the Church,
+and many of the Popes, touched by the miserable condition of the town,
+supplied money to rebuild its ruined walls and palaces, and thus
+induce the citizens to return and inhabit the desolate city. But
+hardly had the Assisans succeeded in getting back some kind of order
+and prosperity than new wars appeared to ruffle the onward flow of
+things. This time the danger came from within, and in Assisi, as in
+so many of the cities of Italy, it was the feud between the nobles
+themselves that drenched the streets with blood and crushed the
+struggles of a people whose cries for liberty were now only faintly
+heard. All sank beneath the heavy hand of the despot. The Perugian
+citizens were being tyrannised over by the powerful family of the
+Baglioni, whose name brings up a picture of crime and bloodshed that
+has hardly been equalled in any town in Italy.[12] In Assisi the
+balance of power lay between the two families of Fiumi and Nepis, who,
+in the irregular fashion of the time, alternately ruled the city in
+opposition to the legal sovereignty of the Papacy. The city was
+sharply divided into the Upper town, where the Nepis had their palaces
+near the castle and San Rufino, and the Lower town, inhabited entirely
+by the Fiumi and their adherents, which clustered round the church of
+Santa Chiara and down to San Francesco. These two families sought
+perpetually to outshine each other, and such was the reputation they
+gained among the people in the country round that even the Perugian
+chroniclers speak of them as "most cultured and splendid citizens,"
+praising their horsemanship and the magnificence of their dress. So
+great was the rivalry between the members of the two families Fiumi
+and Nepis that, when they met in the piazza of Assisi where the nobles
+often walked in the evening, they would provoke each other with
+scornful looks and words, and often this was a signal for a skirmish.
+The _bravi_ would gather round them, and in an instant the whole town
+be roused to arms. After a sharp fight one party was driven to retire
+to its strongholds in the open country, while the victorious nobles
+seized the reins of government, and the weary citizens sank beneath
+the rule of the despots. Assisi presented a most melancholy spectacle
+at the end of one of these encounters. Most of the dwellings of the
+exiled nobles lay in ruins, the churches were shut in consequence of
+the perpetual bloodshed, and the palaces, barred and chained, with the
+gratings drawn up before the entrance, seemed to be inhabited by no
+living being. Franciscan friars stole along the streets on their
+errands of mercy among the distressed citizens, who, besides the
+horrors of the city feuds, suffered from the pestilence and famine
+which decimated nearly all the towns of Italy at this period. But this
+death-like silence within the town was never of long duration. The
+exiled party, ever on the alert to regain possession of their homes,
+would creep into the town at some unguarded moment and once more stir
+a people to fight who were beginning to chafe beneath the irksome rule
+of the rival despots.
+
+A climax of evils came when, in addition to a hundred other ills, the
+Baglioni of Perugia took upon themselves to interfere.
+
+In 1494 we find the Fiumi and the Nepis living peaceably in their
+palaces, dividing the power in Assisi, until at last the hot-headed
+Fiumi grew weary of the even balance of things, and determined at one
+stroke to rid themselves of every foe. In open combat they had
+attempted this and failed, so a treacherous plot was hatched. Jacopo
+Fiumi, head of the house, and his brother Alessandro, persuaded their
+friends, the Priors of the city, to prepare a great banquet in the
+Communal Palace and invite all the members of the rival family to be
+present. Unarmed, and not dreaming of danger, the Nepis entered the
+big hall. No sooner had they thrown off their cloaks than the Fiumi
+rushed upon them with drawn swords and knives. Angered by such wanton
+treachery, the citizens drove the murderers from the city; and the
+Priors, protected by the darkness of the night, fled into the open
+country to seek a refuge in some neighbouring town.
+
+Now this event, like many others, might have subsided and been
+followed by a period of peace, only it happened that the Baglioni were
+allies of the Nepis and ready to avenge them in Assisi. They had,
+moreover, old scores to settle with Jacopo Fiumi, who, Matarazzo tells
+us, in pained surprise, "was a most cruel enemy of the house of
+Baglioni and of every Perugian, and studied day and night how he might
+injure those of Perugia, so that he was the cause of much trouble to
+the magnificent house of Baglioni."[13] This was therefore a good
+opportunity for the Baglioni to lay siege to Assisi, and perpetual
+skirmishes took place in the plain, which sapped the life-blood of the
+citizens and laid waste the Umbrian country for many miles around. The
+peasants, whose grain had been trampled down by the Baglioni, were
+driven half-naked into the woods, and watched the high roads from the
+heights above Assisi like birds of prey, swooping down to rob or kill
+travellers passing by. Badgers, wolves, and foxes roamed unmolested in
+the plain, and fed upon the unburied bodies of the murdered travellers
+and of those who fell in battle; while, in the dead of night, the
+friars of the Portiuncula stole out to bury what bones the wild beasts
+had left. Things had come to such a pass that the Assisans, as we are
+told, knew not what to say or do, so many of their number were dead or
+taken captive and the enemy was ever at their gates. Giovan Paolo,
+mounted on his black charger, "which did not run but flew," led the
+Perugians to storm the town and draw the citizens out to battle. He
+was one of the fiercest of the Baglioni brood and a famous soldier,
+and yet it was in vain he sought to inspire the Assisans with fear.
+"Indeed," says Matarazzo, "each one proved himself valiant on either
+side; for the Assisans had become warlike and inured to arms, and they
+were all iniquitous and desperate."[14] The foes were of equal
+strength and courage, and the war, which had already lasted three
+years, seemed likely to have no end. But one day the Assisans,
+watching from their ramparts, saw a large squadron of soldiers
+hurrying from Perugia to the aid of the Baglioni, and they began to
+ring the city bells as a signal that the moment had come for the final
+stand. Those who were skirmishing in the plain against Giovan Paolo
+began to lose heart when they heard the clanging of the bells, and the
+Perugians, perceiving their advantage, took new courage, so that "each
+one became as a lion." More than sixty Assisans were slain that day,
+while the prisoners suffered cruelly under the vengeance of those who
+took this opportunity of remembering offences of past years. "And thus
+did his lordship, the magnificent Giovan Paolo, return victorious and
+joyful from this great and dangerous battle."[15]
+
+Once the gates of Assisi were forced open, the Baglioni and their
+_bravi_ scoured the streets from end to end, killing all they
+encountered, and dragging from the churches the poor women who sought
+shelter and protection. The blood-thirsty brood did not even respect
+the Church of San Francesco; and the friars, in a letter to their
+patron Guidobaldo, Duke of Urbino, complain most bitterly of the
+crimes committed within the sacred edifice, even on the very steps of
+the altar. "The poor city of Assisi," the letter says, "has known only
+sorrow through the perpetual raids of the Baglioni, whose many crimes
+would be condemned even by the infidel Turks. They rebel against the
+holy Pontiff, and such is their ferocity that they have set fire to
+the gates of the city--even unto that of the Basilica of San
+Francesco. They do not shudder to murder men, cook their flesh, and
+give it to the relations of the slain to eat in their prison
+dungeons."[16] Matarazzo also dwells on the sad conditions of Assisi
+during her final struggle for independence. "So great was the
+pestilence and the famine within the walls that human tongue could not
+describe it, for great woe there was, and such scarcity and penury in
+Assisi as had never been known. I myself have talked to men who were
+in Assisi at that time, and who, on remembering those days of famine,
+pestilence, and war were bathed in tears; and, if the subject had come
+up a thousand times in a day, a thousand times would they have wept
+bitterly, so dark was the memory thereof. Not only did they weep, but
+those also who listened to them, for they would recount how they
+wandered by the walls of the town, and down to the hamlets, and in
+every place searching for herbs to eat; and how, forced by hunger,
+they ate all manner of cooked herbs, and many people sustained
+themselves with three or four cooked nuts dipped in wine, and with
+this they made good cheer."[17]
+
+In reading the terrible chronicle of these years, one asks, "How did
+any life survive in the face of such ghastly suffering?" The strange
+fact remains that life not only survived, but that the Assisans even
+flourished during the period, and, like half-drowned birds, who,
+rising to the surface, bask for a while in the sunshine and then
+spread their wings for a fresh flight, they too arose and prospered.
+But the time was drawing near when these continual efforts were no
+longer needed. The rival factions had reached the summit of their
+savage strength, and the city despots were soon to be swept from the
+land by the whirlwind they themselves had raised.
+
+In the year 1500, during one awful night of carnage at Perugia, the
+Baglioni were nearly all murdered through the treachery of some of
+their own family. The manner in which the clansmen sought out their
+victims and stabbed them in their sleep, driving their teeth into
+their hearts in savage fury, sent a thrill of horror throughout Italy.
+The downfall of this powerful house affected the destiny of Assisi,
+for Perugia was brought under the immediate dominion of the church,
+and with the advent of Paul III, she lost her independence, which she
+never again recovered. A mighty fortress was erected on the site of
+the Baglioni palaces, and the significant words "_Ad coercendam
+Perusinorum audacam_" were inscribed upon its walls. The Farnese Pope
+meant to warn, not only the citizens of that proud city which he had
+brought so successfully within his net, but also the Assisans and the
+other Umbrians who, with anxious eyes, were watching the storms that
+wrecked Perugia.
+
+With this new order of things the last flicker of mediaeval liberty was
+being extinguished, and when Paul III, ordered the cannons from the
+castle of Assisi to be transferred to his new fortress at Perugia, the
+Assisans felt that a crisis had been reached and that henceforth they
+must be guided by the menacing finger of an indomitable pontiff. One
+last effort she did indeed make to save her dignity: she begged to be
+governed independently of her old rival Perugia. To this the Pope
+agreed, and a Papal Legate came with great pomp and was met outside
+the gates by the Priors, nobles, and citizens of Assisi. With that
+great Farnese fortress looming in the distance they were forced to
+make some show of gladness as they followed him in solemn procession
+through the town and up the steep hill to the Rocca Maggiore. Here the
+Legate walked round the ramparts and through the spacious halls of the
+castle, taking possession of all in the name of the Church of Rome.
+Then the Castellano knelt down before him, and as he handed the keys
+over to his keeping, the history of war and strife in Assisi abruptly
+closed.
+
+  [Illustration: THE ARMS OF ASSISI]
+
+  [Illustration: ASSISI IN THE TIME OF ST. FRANCIS]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] The legend may have arisen from the fact that Minerva had a temple
+near Miletos under the title of Assesia and the legend-weavers have
+caught at the similarity of sound to that of their own Umbrian town.
+
+[2] _Carmina_, i. 22, translated by R. C. Trevelyan.
+
+[3] _Carmina_, IV. i. 121; translated by R. C. Trevelyan. In another
+place Propertius gives bolder utterance to his pride: "Whosoever
+beholds the town climbing the valley side, let him measure the fame of
+their walls by my genius" (_Carmina_, iv. 5).
+
+[4] See Cristofani, _Storia d'Assisi_, p. 42 for text of the MS.
+
+[5] Dante, _Inferno_, xix. p. 115. Translated by John Milton.
+
+[6] See _Les Nouveaux Memoires de l'Academie de Bruxelles_ (t. xxiii.
+pp. 29, 33); also _Un nouveau Chapitre de la Vie de S. Francois
+d'Assise_, par Paul Sabatier.
+
+[7] Perugia was, on the whole, faithful to the Guelph cause. She was
+patronised by the Popes on account of her strong position overlooking
+the Tiber, and when inclined she freely acknowledged them as her
+masters but at the same time she was careful to guard her
+independence.
+
+[8] _Cronaca Graziani_, p. 522.
+
+[9] _Cronaca Graziani_, pp. 512 and 513.
+
+[10] _Cronaca Graziani_, p. 513.
+
+[11] _Cronaca Graziani_, p. 514, note 1.
+
+[12] For a full account of the Baglioni see the sixteenth-century
+chronicle of Matarazzo (_Archivio Storico Italiano_, vol. xvi. part
+ii.), who has immortalised their crimes in classic language; and also
+_The Story of Perugia_ (Mediaeval Towns Series, J. M. Dent & Co.).
+
+[13] _Cronaca Matarazzo_, p. 75.
+
+[14] _Cronaca Matarazzo_, p. 75.
+
+[15] _Ibid._
+
+[16] Fratini, _Storia della Basilica di San Francesco_, p. 287.
+
+[17] _Cronaca di Matarazzo_, p. 75.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+_The Umbrian Prophet_
+
+   "Fra santi il pui santo, e tra i peccatori quasi uno di
+   loro."--Celano. _Vita_ I. cap. xxix.
+
+
+Often while reading the Italian chroniclers we forget that a life of
+chivalry, song, tournament, and pagan pleasure-making was passed in a
+mediaeval town even while war, pestilence, and famine cast a settled
+gloom on every home. Lazar-houses stood at the gates of the city while
+sumptuous feasts were spread in the banqueting halls of palaces. Men
+rebelled against the ugliness and squalor produced by a hundred ills
+that swept over Italy during the twelfth century,[18] and so it came
+about that in the darkest hours of a city's history, scenes of maddest
+revelry were enacted. At this period were founded the Brigate Amorose,
+or Companies of young nobles, whose one aim in life was amusement.
+There were few towns in Italy, however small, in which these gay
+youths did not organise magnificent sports and tournaments[19] to
+which the ladies came in gowns of rich brocades or "fair velvet,"
+their tresses garlanded with precious jewels and flowers. Or knights,
+ladies, and other folk would meet in the piazzas and pass the summer
+evenings with
+
+     "Provencal songs and dances that surpass;
+     And quaint French mummings: and through hollow brass
+     A sound of German music in the air."[20]
+
+Late at night after a splendid banquet, the nobles wandered through
+the streets singing as they followed the lead of one chosen by
+themselves, whom they called the Lord of Love. Sometimes their ranks
+were swelled by passing troubadours from Provence who sang of the
+feats of Charlemagne and of King Arthur and his knights. For it was
+the time when Bernard de Ventadour was singing some of his sweetest
+love lyrics, and people were alternately laughing at the
+whimsicalities of Pierre Vidal and weeping at the tender pathos of his
+poems.[21] Those who listened to these songsters were, for the moment,
+deceived into thinking life was full of love and mirth, and sorrow
+only touched them when their lady frowned. The music of Provence found
+a way across the Alps to the feudal courts of Este and Ferrara, to
+Verona, and later, southwards to Sicily, where Frederick the Great was
+king. It came even to the towns which lay hidden in the folds of the
+Umbrian mountains, and some of its sweetest strains were echoed back
+again from Assisi. Her troubadour was Francis Bernardone, the rich
+merchant's son, leader of the young nobles who, in their carousals,
+named him Lord of Love, and placed the kingly sceptre in his hand as
+he walked at their head through the streets at night, rousing the
+sleepy Assisan burghers with wild bursts of song.
+
+Francis had learned the Provencal language from his mother, Madonna
+Pica, whom Pietro Bernardone[22] is said to have met while journeying
+from castle to castle in Provence, tempting the ladies to buy his
+merchandise as he told them news of Italy. The early writers do not
+mention her nationality, they only allude to her as _Madonna_, which
+might imply that she was of noble birth; the later legend, which says
+that she was of the family of the counts of Bourlemont, is without
+foundation. We know she was a good and tender mother to Francis, who
+was left mostly in her charge, as Pietro Bernardone was so often
+absent in France. She taught him to love the world of romance and
+chivalry peopled by the heroes of the troubadours, and there he found
+an escape from the gloom that enveloped Assisi during those early days
+of warfare which were enough to sadden that joyous nature rarely found
+among saints. Celano gives a graphic picture of the temptations to
+which the youths of the middle ages were exposed, even in infancy in
+their own homes. This danger Francis escaped, but the companions with
+whom he spent the first twenty years of his life in gay living had not
+been so well guarded, and Francis was not slow to feel the influence
+of his time. We must remember that the accounts we have of him were
+written under the papal eye, and it is patent that both as sinner and
+as saint he took a leading part.
+
+"He was always first among his equals in all vanities," says Celano,
+"the first instigator of evil, and behind none in foolishness, so that
+he drew upon himself the attention of the public by vain-glorious
+extravagance, in which he stood foremost. He was not chary of jokes,
+ridicule, light sayings, evil-speaking, singing, and in the wearing of
+soft and fine clothes; being very rich he spent freely, being less
+desirous of accumulating wealth than of dissipating his substance;
+clever at trafficking, but too vain to prevent others from spending
+what was his: withal a man of pleasant manners, facile and courteous
+even to his own disadvantage; for this reason, therefore, many,
+through his fault, became evil-doers and promoters of scandal. Thus,
+surrounded by many worthless companions, triumphantly and scornfully
+he went upon his way."[23]
+
+His early years passed away in feasting and singing with an occasional
+journey to a neighbouring town to sell the Bernardone wares, until
+1202 when war broke out between Perugia and Assisi, and the big bell
+of the cathedral called the citizens to arms in the Piazza della
+Minerva. Men gathered round their captain, while from the windows of
+every house women gesticulated wildly, almost drowning the clank of
+armour and the tramp of horses by their shrill screams. Francis, on a
+magnificent charger, rode out of the city gates abreast with the
+nobles of Assisi, filling the bourgeois heart of Pietro with delight,
+that a son of his should be thus honoured. It was a beautiful sight to
+see the communal armies winding down to the plain, one coming from the
+western hill, the other from the southern, to match their strength by
+the Tiber. They were "troops of knights, noble in face and form,
+dazzling in crest and shield; horse and man one labyrinth of quaint
+colour and gleaming light--the purple, and silver, and scarlet fringes
+flowing over the strong limbs and clashing mail like sea waves over
+rocks at sunset."[24]
+
+The Assisans were vanquished: no details of the fight have come down
+to us, but we know that the nobles lay in a Perugian prison for a year
+and that it was Francis who cheered them, often astonishing them with
+his wild spirits. They told him he was mad to dance so gaily in a
+prison, but nothing saddened him in those days.
+
+When peace was at last made, with hard terms for Assisi, the prisoners
+returned home and threw themselves with renewed vigour into their
+former pursuit of pleasure, and soon afterwards Francis fell ill of a
+fever which brought him near the grave. Face to face with death he
+stood a while, and the result of the danger he had passed through
+worked an extraordinary change in his nature. His recovery was in
+reality a return to a new life, both of body and soul. Celano tells us
+that Francis "being somewhat stronger and able to walk about the house
+leaning on a stick, in order to complete his restoration to health one
+day went forth and with unusual eagerness gazed at the vast extent of
+country which lay before him; yet neither the charm of the vineyards
+or of aught that is pleasant to look on, were of any consolation to
+him."[25]
+
+It was probably from the Porta Nuova, close to where the church of
+Santa Chiara now stands, that he looked out on the Umbrian country he
+loved so well. Here Mount Subasio rises grey and bleak above the olive
+groves which slope gradually down to the valley where a white road
+leads past Spello to Foligno in the plain and on to Spoleto high up in
+the mountain gorge which brings the valley to a close. All these towns
+were dear and familiar to Francis. He had watched them in spring time
+when the young corn was ripening near their walls and the children
+came out to look for the sweet scented narcissi. While wandering on
+the hill sides at dawn he had seen the brown roofs warmed by the first
+rays of the sun and each window twinkle like so many eyes across the
+plain in answer to the light. But as he looked now upon the same scene
+a great sadness came over him, and we are told he wondered at the
+sudden inward change. That hour in the smiling Umbrian landscape was
+the most solitary he ever experienced; ill and weak he awoke to the
+emptiness of the life he had hitherto led, and in the bitterness of
+his soul he did not know where to turn for comfort.[26]
+
+It is a remarkable fact that Celano does not from this moment picture
+Francis as an aureoled saint, but allows us to realise the many
+difficulties he had to overcome before he stands once more among the
+vineyards with a song of praise upon his lips, and a look of victory
+in his eyes.
+
+Although Francis began to "despise those things he had formerly held
+dear," he was not altogether freed from the bonds of vanity, nor had
+he "thrown off the yoke of servitude"; for when restored to health he
+was full of ambitious projects to make a great career for himself in
+the world. The realisation of his dreams seemed indeed near, as it
+happened at this time that a noble knight of Assisi was preparing to
+join the army of Gauthier de Brienne, then fighting the battles of
+Pope Innocent III, in Apulia. Francis, "greedy of glory," determined
+to accompany the knight to the wars, and began to prepare for the
+journey with more than usual magnificence. He was all impatience to
+start, and his mind was full of the expedition when he had a dream
+which filled him with hope. In lieu of the bales of silk in his
+father's warehouse, stood saddles, shields, and lances, all marked
+with the red cross, and as he marvelled at the sight a voice told him
+those arms were intended for himself and his soldiers. Rising next
+morning full of ambitious plans after such an omen of good fortune, he
+mounted his charger and rode through the town bidding farewell to his
+friends. He smiled on all and seemed so light of heart that they
+pressed round asking what made him so merry. "I shall yet be a great
+prince," he answered, and he passed out of the Porta Nuova, where but
+a short while before he had stood looking down so sadly on the valley
+he was now to traverse as an armoured knight. At Spoleto he had a
+return of intermittent fever, and while chafing at the delay a voice
+called to him: "Francis, who can do the most good, the master or the
+servant?"
+
+"The master," answered Francis, not in the least astonished by the
+mysterious question.
+
+"Why then dost thou leave the master for the servant, and the prince
+for the follower? Return to thy country, there shalt thou be told what
+to do; for thou hast mistaken the meaning and wrongly interpreted the
+vision sent thee by God."
+
+Next morning, leaving the knight to continue the journey alone, he
+mounted his horse and returned to Assisi, where he was doubtless
+received with disappointment by his parents, and with gibes by the
+citizens who had listened to his boasts of future greatness. Once
+again he went back to work in his father's shop, but now when the
+young nobles called to him to join in their revels he went listlessly,
+often escaping from their midst to wander alone in the fields or pass
+long hours praying in a grotto near the city. One day his friends, in
+despair at his frequent absences, gave a grand banquet, making him
+"King of the feast." He delighted them all with fitful bursts of merry
+wit, but at last when the revellers rushed out into the night to roam
+about the town till dawn, Francis fell back from the gay throng, and
+stood gazing up at the calm Umbrian sky decked in all its splendour of
+myriad stars. When the others returned in search of their leader,
+they, wondering at the change that had come over the wildest spirit of
+Assisi, assailed him with questions. "Are you thinking of marrying,
+Francis," cried one jester, and amidst the laughter of all came his
+quiet answer: "Yes, a wife more noble and more beautiful than ye have
+ever seen; she will outshine all others in beauty and in wisdom."
+Already the image of the Lady Poverty had visited him, and enamoured
+like a very troubadour he composed songs in her honour as he walked in
+the woods near Assisi.
+
+The kind heart of Francis had always been touched at the sight of the
+poor lepers, who, exiled from the companionship of their fellow
+creatures, lived in a lazar-house on the plain, about a mile from the
+town. But his compassion for their misery was mingled with a strong
+feeling of repugnance, so that he had always shunned these wretched
+outcasts. "When I was in the bondage of sin," he tells us in his will,
+"it was bitter to me, and loathsome to see, and loke uppon persouny
+enfect with leopre; but that blessed Lord broughte me amonge them, and
+I did mercy with them, and departing from them, what before semyd
+bittre and lothesomme was turned and changed to me in great sweetnesse
+and comfort both of body and of soule, and afterwards in this state I
+stode and abode a lytle while, and then I lefte and forsooke the
+worldly lyf."[27]
+
+Pietro Bernardone now saw his son, clothed in rags, his face pinched
+and white from long vigils spent in prayer, going forth on errands of
+mercy, jeered at by the citizens, pelted with stones and filth by the
+children. There were many storms in the Bernardone household which the
+gentle Pica was unable to quell; and when finally Francis began to
+throw his father's money among the poor in the same regal manner in
+which he had once spent it among his boon companions, Bernardone could
+bear it no longer, and drove his son from the house. When they met he
+cursed him, and the family bonds thus severed were never again
+renewed.
+
+Francis was still like a pilgrim uncertain of his goal, or like a man
+standing before a heavy burden which he feels unable to lift. What was
+he to do with his life--how could he help the poor and suffering--were
+questions he asked himself over and over again as he vainly sought for
+an anchor in the troubled seas. The answer came to him one day as he
+was attending mass at the chapel of the Portiuncula on the feast of
+St. Matthew the apostle, in the year 1209.
+
+"And as ye go, preach, saying, The kingdom of heaven is at hand. Heal
+the sick, cleanse the lepers, raise the dead, cast out devils: freely
+ye have received, freely give. Provide neither gold, nor silver, nor
+brass in your purses, nor scrip for your journey, neither two coats,
+neither shoes, nor yet staves" ... read the priest from the gospel of
+the day. Those simple words were a revelation to Francis, who, when
+mass was over, ran out into the woods, and, with only the birds in
+the oak trees to witness his strange interpretation of the gospel,
+threw away his shoes, wallet, staff and well-filled purse. "This is
+what I desired; behold, here is what I searched for and am burning to
+perform," he cried, in the delirium of his new-found joy.
+
+If the Assisans had been astonished at his former eccentricities, as
+they termed his deeds of charity, they were yet more amazed to see him
+now, clothed in a coarse habit, with a knotted cord round his waist,
+and with bare feet, begging his bread from door to door. After a
+little while they grew accustomed to the hurrying figure of the young
+mendicant as he passed rapidly down the street greeting all he met
+with the salutation of "Our Lord give thee His peace." The words
+brought something new and strange into men's hearts, and those who had
+scoffed at him most drew near to learn the secret of their charm. The
+first to be touched by the simplicity and joyous saintliness of
+Francis was Bernardo di Quintevalle, a wealthy noble of Assisi, who
+had known him as King among the young Assisan revellers, and watched
+with astonishment his complete renouncement of the world. He
+determined to join Francis in ministering to the lepers, and began his
+new mode of life by selling all his possessions for the benefit of the
+poor. His conversion created a considerable stir in the town; and
+people had not ceased to gossip on the subject when another well-known
+citizen, Pietro de Catanio, a canon of the cathedral, also offered his
+services at the lazar-house. A few days later a labourer named Egidio
+"beholding how those noble knights of Assisi despised the world, so
+that the whole country stood amazed," came in search of Francis to beg
+him to take him as one of his companions. Francis met him at the
+entrance of the wood by the lazar hospital, and gazing on the devout
+aspect of Egidio, answered and said: "Brother most dear, God has shown
+Himself exceeding gracious unto thee. If the Emperor were to come to
+Assisi and desire to make a certain citizen his knight or private
+chamberlain, ought not such a one to be exceeding glad? How much more
+oughtest thou not to rejoice that God hath chosen thee out to be His
+knight and well-beloved servant, to observe the perfection of the Holy
+Gospel"?[28] and, taking him by the hand, he brought him to the hut
+which was their home. Here a merchant's son, a learned churchman, and
+a rich nobleman, welcomed an Assisan labourer in their midst with the
+simple brotherly love which was to be the keynote of the franciscan
+order. After the reception of Egidio we are told that Francis went
+with him to the Marches of Ancona, "singing glorious praises of the
+Lord of heaven and earth" as they travelled along the dusty roads.
+Albeit Francis did not preach publicly to the people, yet as he went
+by the way he admonished and corrected the men-folk and the
+women-folk, saying lovingly to them these simple words: "Love and fear
+God, and do fit penance for your sins." And Egidio would say: "Do what
+this my spiritual Father saith unto you, for he speaketh right well."
+
+It was not long before the fame of Francis drew quite a little
+community of brethren to the tiny hut in the plain, and the question
+naturally occurs--Did Francis plan out the creation of an order when
+he gathered men around him? It was so natural a thing for disciples to
+follow him that his biographers simply note it as a fact, and, not
+being given to speculation in those days, pass on to other events. We
+may be allowed to conjecture that the same ambition which some years
+before had stirred his longing to be a great prince was not dead,
+only his dreams were to be realised in another sphere of action. The
+qualities which made him the brilliant leader among the gay nobles of
+Assisi were now turned into another channel--he became a prince among
+saints, a controller of men's destinies.
+
+Varied indeed was the band of Francis' disciples, and it is
+interesting to see how each one was allowed to follow the bent of his
+nature. In this complete sympathy with character lay one of the
+secrets of his power. Egidio, who in the world had been a labourer,
+was encouraged by his master to continue his life in the open country.
+He gathered in the olives for the peasants, helped them with their
+vintage, and when the corn was being cut would glean the ears; but if
+anyone offered him a handful of grain, he remarked: "My brother, I
+have no granary wherein to store it." Usually he gave away what he had
+gleaned to the poor, so that he brought little food back to the
+convent. Always ready to turn his hand to every job, one day we find
+Egidio beating a walnut tree for a proprietor who could find none to
+do the work because the tree was so tall. But he set himself gaily to
+the task, and having made the sign of the Cross, "with great fear
+climbed up the walnut tree and beat it. The share that fell to him was
+so large that he could not carry it in his tunic, so taking off his
+habit he tied the sleeves and the hood together and made a sack of
+it."[29] With this load on his back he returned towards the convent,
+but on the way distributed all the nuts to the poor. Egidio remains
+the ideal type of the franciscan friar. "He is a Knight of my Round
+Table," said Francis one day as he recounted some new adventure which
+had befallen the intrepid brother, who was always journeying to some
+southern town, and is said even to have visited the Holy Land.[30]
+
+A very different man, drawn by the magic influence of Francis into the
+Order at the beginning of its fame in 1211, was Elias Buonbarone, the
+son of a Bolognese mattress-maker who had for some time been settled
+in Assisi. He is always represented by the biographers as haughty,
+overbearing, and fond of controlling the actions of others; in fact a
+strong contrast to the meek brother Leo whom Francis lovingly named
+the little lamb of God. But if lacking in saintly qualities, Elias
+possessed a remarkable mind and determination of character which
+enabled him afterwards to play a considerable part in the history of
+his times. He embodies the later franciscan spirit which grew up after
+the saint's death, and of which we shall treat in another chapter.
+
+When Francis found himself surrounded by some dozen followers, all
+anxious to obey his wishes to the very letter and waiting only to be
+sent hither and thither as he commanded, it became necessary to write
+down some rule of life. In simple words he enjoined all to live
+according to the precepts of the Gospel, "and they that came to
+reseyve this forme or manner of lyvynge departyd and distributed that
+they had and myght haue too powre people. And we were content with
+oone coote pesyd bothe within forthe and without forthe with oone
+corde and a femorall, and we wolde not haue ony more. Our dyvyne
+servyse the clerkis saide as other clerkis, and the lay bretherne said
+ther Pater noster. And we fulle gladly dwelt and taried in pour
+deserte and desolat churchys, and we were contente to be taken as
+ideotis and foolys of every man, and I did exercyse my self in bodily
+laboure. And I wille laboure, and yt ys my wille surely and
+steadfastely that alle the bretherne occupie and exercyse themself in
+laboure, and in such occupation and laboure as belongeth to honeste.
+And those that have no occupation to exercyse themself with alle,
+shall lerne not for covetis to resceyve the price or hier for their
+laboure, but for to give good example and eschewe and put away
+idlenesse. When we wer not satisfied nor recompensied for our laboure,
+we went and had recourse to the lord of oure Lorde, askynge almes from
+dore to dore. Our Lorde by reualation tawghte me to say this maner of
+salutation, 'Our Lorde give to thee His peace.'"[31]
+
+The first rule which Francis and his companions took in the summer of
+1210 to be confirmed by Innocent III, has not come down to us. In Rome
+they fortunately met the bishop of Assisi, who promised to obtain for
+them, through one of the Cardinals, an interview with the Pope. A
+legend tells us how Innocent, wrapt in deep meditation, was pacing
+with solemn step the terrace of the Lateran, when this strange company
+of ragged, bare-footed, dusty men was ushered into his presence. He
+looked at them in surprise, his lip curling in disdain as Francis
+stepped forward to make his request. From an Umbrian pilgrim he heard
+for the first time that power was not the greatest good in life while
+in poverty lay both peace and joy, and the great pope stood amazed at
+the new doctrine. "Who can live without temporal possessions,"
+sarcastically asked the Cardinals who had been trained in the spirit
+of Innocent, and the "Penitents of Assisi" bowed their heads, and
+drawing their hoods forward, went sorrowfully out of the pope's
+presence amid the jeers of his court. That night Innocent had a dream
+in which he saw the church of St John Lateran about to fall, and its
+tottering walls were supported on the shoulders of a man whom he
+recognised as the spokesman of the band of Umbrians he had so hastily
+dismissed. Full of strange visions the pope sent for Francis, who
+repeated his desire to have his rule confirmed. "My son," said
+Innocent, "your rule of life seems to us most hard and bitter, but
+although we do not doubt your fervour we must consider whether the
+road is not too hard a one for those who are to follow thee." Francis,
+with ready wit, answered these objections by a tale he invented for
+the purpose. "A beautiful but poor girl lived in a desert, and a great
+king, seeing her beauty, wished to take her to wife, thinking by her
+to have fine children. The marriage having taken place, many sons were
+born, and when they were grown up their mother thus spoke to them: 'My
+sons be not ashamed, for you are sons of the king; go therefore to his
+court and he will cause all that is needful to be given to you.' And
+when they came, the king, observing their beauty and seeing in them
+his own likeness and image, said: 'Whose sons are you?' And they
+answered; 'sons of a poor woman who lived in the desert.' So with
+great joy the king embraced them, saying: 'Be not afraid, for you are
+my sons, and when strangers eat at my table how much more right have
+you to eat who are my legitimate sons?' The king then ordered the said
+woman to send all sons born of her to be nourished at his court." "Oh,
+Messer," cried Francis, "I am that poor woman, beloved of God, and
+made beautiful through His mercy, by whom he was pleased to generate
+legitimate sons. And the King said to me that he will feed all the
+sons born of me, for as He feeds strangers so He may well feed His
+own."
+
+Thus did Francis describe his Lady Poverty, and boldly hint that the
+crimson-robed princes of the Church and the prelates of the Papal
+Court had strayed from the teaching of the Gospel.
+
+Who can say whether Innocent, watching with keen eyes the earnest face
+of the Umbrian teacher, began to realise the power such a man might
+have in restoring to the church some of its lost purity, and was
+planning how to yoke him to his service. This at least we know, that
+before Francis and his companions left Rome they received the tonsure
+which marked them as the Church's own, and with blessings and promises
+of protection Innocent sent this new and strange militia throughout
+the length and breadth of Italy to fight his spiritual battles. The
+simplicity and the love of Francis had conquered the Pope, and to the
+end continued to triumph over every difficulty.
+
+Such was the desire of Francis and his companions to return to Assisi
+with the good news, that they forgot to eat on the way and arrived
+exhausted in the valley of Spoleto, though still singing aloud for the
+joy in their hearts. Somewhere near Orte they found an Etruscan
+tomb--a delightful retreat for prayer. It so pleased Francis that a
+strong temptation came over him to abandon all idea of preaching and
+lead a hermit's life. For there was that in his nature which drew him
+into the deep solitude of the woods, and might have kept him away from
+men and the work that was before him. The battle in his soul waged
+fiercely as he stood upon the mountain side looking up the valley
+towards Assisi, but his heart went out to the people who dwelt there,
+and the strong impulse he had to help those who suffered and needed
+him won the day. The die was cast; he left his Etruscan retreat to
+take up once more the burden, and thus it was that, in the words of
+Matthew Arnold: "He brought religion to the people. He founded the
+most popular body of ministers of religion that has ever existed in
+the church. He transformed monachism by uprooting the stationary monk,
+delivering him from the bondage of property, and sending him, as a
+mendicant friar, to be a stranger and sojourner; not in the
+wilderness, but in the most crowded haunts of men, to console them,
+and to do them good."
+
+When Francis began his mission among the people of Italy it was the
+custom for only the bishops to preach; but as they lived in baronial
+splendour, enjoying the present, and amassing money which they
+extorted from their poor parishioners to leave to their families, they
+had little time to attend to spiritual duties. The people being
+therefore left much to their own devices, sank ever deeper into
+ignorance, sin, and superstition. They saw religion only from afar
+until Francis appeared "like a star shining in the darkness of the
+night" to bring to them the messages of peace and love. He came as one
+of themselves, poor, reviled and persecuted, and the wonder of it made
+the people throng in crowds to hear one who seemed indeed inspired.
+Those simple words from the depths of a great and noble heart filled
+all who listened with wonder. They were like the sharp cries of some
+wild bird calling to its mate--the people heard and understood them.
+When the citizens of an Umbrian town looked from their walls across
+the valley and saw the grey cloaked figure hurrying along the dusty
+road, they rang the bells to spread the good news, and bearing
+branches of olive went out singing to meet him. All turned out of
+their houses to run to the market-place where Francis, standing on
+steps, or upon a low wall, for he was short of stature, would speak
+to them as one friend does to another; sometimes charming them by his
+eloquence, often moving the whole multitude to bitter tears by his
+preaching on the passion of Christ. With his eyes looking up to the
+heavens, and his hands outstretched as though imploring them to
+repent, he seemed to belong to another world and "not to this
+century." They not only repented, but many left the world to follow
+him and spread the gospel of peace and love. The first woman who
+begged him to receive her vows of renunciation was Chiara Sciffi, of a
+noble Assisan house. Several members of the family, besides others
+from near and far, followed her into the cloister until she became the
+abbess of a numerous sisterhood, the foundress of the Poor Clares or
+Second Order of St. Francis.
+
+The first inspired messages of Francis were brought to the Assisans,
+and then he left them for awhile to journey further afield into other
+parts of Italy, where he always met with the same marvellous success.
+In the following account of his visit to Bologna we get a vivid idea
+of his manner of appeal to the people; and of their enthusiasm and
+astonishment that this poor and seemingly illiterate man, the very
+antithesis of the pedantic clergy, should have the power to hold and
+sway an audience by the magic of his words. "I, Thomas, citizen of
+Spalato, and archdeacon of the cathedral church of the same city,
+studying at Bologna in the year 1220, on the day of the assumption of
+the Mother of God, saw St. Francis preach in the square before the
+little palace, where nearly the whole town was assembled. He spoke
+first of angels, of men, and of devils. He explained the spiritual
+natures with such exactness and eloquence that his hearers were
+astonished that such words could come from the mouth of a man so
+simple as he was. Nor did he follow the usual course of preachers.
+His discourse resembled rather one of those harangues that are made by
+popular orators. At the conclusion, he spoke only of the extinction of
+hatred, and the urgency of concluding treaties of peace, and compacts
+of union. His garments were soiled and torn, his person thin, his face
+pale, but God gave his words unheard-of power. He converted even men
+of rank, whose unrestrained fury and cruelty had bathed the country in
+blood; many who were enemies were reconciled. Love and veneration for
+the saint were universal; men and women thronged around him, and happy
+were those who could so much as touch the hem of his habit."[32]
+
+Young knights and students stepped out of the crowd after one of these
+burning discourses, resolved to don the grey habit and renounce the
+world. The ranks of the followers of St. Francis were swelled at every
+town through which he passed; and he left some of his own sweetness
+and gentleness among those who had listened to his preaching, so that
+party feuds lay dormant for awhile, enemies were reconciled, and all
+tried to lead more Christian lives. _Pax et bonum_ was the Franciscan
+war-cry which fell indeed strangely on the air in a mediaeval town.
+Whenever Francis heard of tension and ill-will between the nobles and
+the people he hurried with his message of peace to quell the storm.
+
+But at Perugia he failed. Brother Leo tells us that, "Once upon a
+time, when the Blessed Francis was preaching to a great multitude of
+people gathered together in the Piazza of Perugia, some cavaliers of
+the city began to joust and play on their horses in the piazza, thus
+interrupting his sermon; and, although rebuked by those present, they
+would not desist. Then the blessed Francis, in the fervour of his
+soul, turned towards them and said, 'Listen and understand what the
+Lord announces to you by me, his little servant, and refrain from
+jeering at him, and saying, He is an Assisan.' This he said because of
+the ancient hatred which still exists between the Perugians and the
+Assisans...."[33] Rebuking the citizens for their pride, he predicted
+that if they did not shortly repent civil war would break out in the
+city. But the Perugians, who fought ever better than they prayed,
+continued in their evil ways until at length the words of St. Francis
+were verified. A tumult arose between the people of Perugia, and the
+soldiers were thrust out of the city gates into the country, which
+they devastated, destroying trees, vineyards, and corn-fields, so that
+the misery in the land was great.
+
+  [Illustration: VIA DI S. MARIA DELLE ROSE]
+
+In the course of a single day Francis often preached at five different
+towns or villages; sometimes he went up to a feudal castle, attracted
+by the sound of music and laughter. "Let us go up unto this feast,"
+he would say to his companion, "for, with the help of God, we may win
+some good harvest of souls." Knights and ladies left the banqueting
+hall when they heard of his arrival, and Francis standing on a low
+parapet of the courtyard preached so "devoutly and sublimely to them
+that all stood with their eyes and their minds turned on him as though
+an angel of God were speaking." And then the gay company returned to
+their feast and the two friars went on their way singing aloud from
+the joy in their hearts, and passed the night praying in some deserted
+church or rested under the olive trees on the hill-side. At dawn they
+rose and "went according to their rule, begging bread for the love of
+God, St. Francis going by one street and Brother Masseo by another.
+But St. Francis, being contemptible to look upon and small of stature,
+was accounted but a vile beggar by those who knew him not, and only
+received some mouthfuls of food and small scraps of stale bread; but
+to Brother Masseo, because he was tall and finely made, were given
+tit-bits in large pieces and in plenty and whole slices of bread. When
+they had done begging they met together outside the town to eat in a
+place where was a fair spring, and near by a fine broad stone whereon
+each placed the alms they had gathered, and St. Francis seeing the
+pieces of bread given to Brother Masseo to be more numerous, better,
+and far larger than his own rejoiced greatly...."[34]
+
+Masseo on one occasion wishing to try the humility of Francis mocked
+him saying, "Why doth all the world come after thee, and why is it
+that all men long to see thee, and hear thee, and obey thee? Thou art
+not a comely man, thou art not possessed of much wisdom, thou art not
+of noble birth; whence comes it then that the whole world doth run
+after thee?"
+
+It is easy to see the naive wonder of the practical Masseo in these
+words, a wonder doubtless shared by others who looked on from the same
+standpoint, at the extraordinary influence Francis obtained through
+his preaching. Their astonishment must have reached its height when
+Francis came to a little town near Bevagna (perhaps Cannara) where he
+preached with such fervour that the whole population wished to take
+the franciscan habit. Husbands, wives, nobles, labourers, young and
+old, rich and poor, rose up with one accord, ready to leave their
+homes and follow him to the end of the earth. Such an awakening by the
+simple words of a road-side preacher had never before been seen, and
+was the precursor of other popular demonstrations a few years
+later.[35] Francis, with extraordinary diplomacy, held the
+enthusiastic crowd in check without extinguishing their piety. He
+calmly viewed the situation and solved the difficulty where another,
+with less knowledge of human nature, might have been carried away by
+the opening of the flood-gates. It is not without amusement that one
+thinks of Francis coming to convert sinners, and then finding he had
+called into being an order of Religious who absolutely refused to
+separate from him. He calmed the weeping crowd, and with caution said
+to them: "'Be not in a hurry, neither leave your homes, and I will
+order that which ye are to do for the salvation of your souls:' and he
+then decided to create the Third Order for the universal salvation of
+all, and thus, leaving them much consoled and well disposed to
+penitence, he departed...."
+
+At a time when war, party feuds, and the unlawful seizure of property
+brought misery into the land, the Tertiaries, united by solemn vows to
+keep the commandments of God, to be reconciled to their enemies, and
+to restore what was not rightfully theirs, became a power which had to
+be reckoned with. The rule forbidding them to fight, save in defence
+of the Church or of their country, dealt a severe blow at the feudal
+system, and therefore met with much opposition among the great barons.
+Persecution only increased their power, for so early as 1227 Gregory
+IX, protected the Brothers of Penitence by a special Bull. The enemies
+of the Church soon discovered that they had a powerful antagonist in
+an Order which comprised the faithful of every age, rank, and
+profession, and whose religious practices, whilst creating a great
+bond of union among them, were not severe enough to take them away
+from social life in the very heart of the great cities. They formed a
+second vanguard to the papacy, and Frederick II, was heard to complain
+that this Third Order impeded the execution of his plans against the
+Holy See; while his chancellor Pier delle Vigne in one of his letters
+exclaims that the whole of Christendom seems to have entered its
+ranks.[36]
+
+Thus both from within and from without the world was being moulded as
+Francis willed; all Italy responded to his call, and everywhere rose
+songs of praise to God from a people no longer oppressed by the
+squalor of their evil living. His energy and desire to gain souls drew
+him still further afield into the wilds of Slavonia, into Spain,
+Syria, Morocco, and later into Egypt, for the purpose of converting
+the Soldan. So great was his eagerness to arrive at his destination
+and begin to preach that, often leaving his companions far behind, he
+literally ran along the roads. He was "inebriated by the excessive
+fervour of his spirit," and on fire with divine love, and yet he
+failed on these missions in foreign lands. The reason probably lay in
+his total ignorance of any language except Italian and Provencal, so
+that his words must have lost all their eloquence and power when
+delivered through the medium of an interpreter, and we know that
+Francis never made use of miracles to enforce his teaching.[37]
+
+He returned to Assisi bitterly disappointed, and so despondent that
+for a while he was tempted to give up all idea of preaching. In this
+uncertainty he turned for council to Brother Sylvester and to St.
+Clare, who both urged him to continue his mission to the people; God,
+they said, had not elected him to work out his salvation in the
+solitude of a cell but for the salvation of all. He left the hermitage
+(perhaps the Carcere) and filled with new courage by their words,
+started on a fresh pilgrimage by "cities and castles," but this time
+among the Umbrians who knew and loved him. As he came near Bevagna in
+the plain a new crowd of listeners awaited him--troops of fluttering
+birds--bullfinches, rooks, doves, "a great company of creatures
+without number." Leaving his companions in a state of wonder on the
+road, he ran into the field saying, "I would preach to my little
+brothers the birds," and as he drew near, those that were on the
+ground did not attempt to fly away, while those perched on the trees
+flew down to listen to his sermon.
+
+"My little brethren birds," he said, after saluting them as was his
+custom, "ye ought greatly to praise and love the Lord who created
+you, for He provideth all that is necessary, giving unto you feathers
+for raiment and wings to fly with. The Most High God has placed you
+among His creatures, and given you the pure air for your abode; ye do
+not sow neither do ye reap, but He keeps and feeds you."[38]
+Stretching out their necks, opening their beaks, and spreading their
+wings, the birds listened while they fixed their eyes upon the saint
+and never moved even when he walked in their midst touching them with
+his habit, until he made the sign of the Cross and allowed them to
+depart. He often related this episode which had made such a happy day
+in his life and had been of good augury at a time when he was sad.
+
+The love of Francis for his "little brethren the birds," and indeed
+for all creatures however small, was one of the most beautiful traits
+in a character which stands out in such strong relief in the history
+of the middle ages. It was not only a poetical sentiment but the very
+essence of his being; a power felt by every living thing, from the
+brigand who left his haunts in the forests to follow him, to the
+half-frozen bees which crawled in winter to be fed with wine and honey
+from his hands. An understanding so complete with Nature was unknown
+until Francis stretched out his arms in yearning towards her shrines
+and drew the people, plunged in the gloom of Catharist doctrines,
+towards what was a religion in itself--the worship of the beautiful.
+
+"Le treizieme siecle etait pret pour comprendre la voix du poete de
+l'Ombrie; le sermon aux oiseaux clot le regne de l'art byzantin et de
+la pensee dont il etait l'image. C'est la fin du dogmatisme et de
+l'autorite; c'est l'avenement de l'individualisme et de
+l'inspiration,"[39] says M. Paul Sabatier. No one mocked at the
+sermon to the birds; no one wondered that leverets, loosed from the
+snare of the huntsman, should run to Francis for protection, or
+pheasants forsake the woods to seek a shelter in his cell; for so
+great an awakening had taken place in Italy that all understood the
+deep vein of poetry in their saint.
+
+His biographers have transmitted these various anecdotes with a
+tenderness and simplicity which cannot fail to impress us with the
+belief that Francis, like many in our own time, possessed a marked
+attraction for all animals, a magnetism felt with equal strength by
+man and beast. Love was the Orphean lute he played upon, sending such
+sweet melody into the world that its strains have not yet died away.
+
+Besides the feeling he had for the beautiful, the small, or the weak,
+there was another influence at work that made him walk with reverence
+over the stones, gather up the worms from the path to save them from
+being crushed, and buy the lambs that were being carried to market
+with their poor feet tied together. He saw in all things a symbol of
+some great truth which carried his thoughts straight to God. One day
+near Ancona he noticed a lamb following slowly and disconsolately a
+large herd of goats which made him think of Christ among the
+Pharisees. In pity he bought it from the goat-herd, and in triumph
+carried it to a neighbouring town where he preached a parable to an
+admiring crowd, even edifying the bishop by his piety.
+
+Speaking of his favourite birds he would say, "Sister lark hath a hood
+like the Religious ... and her raiment--to wit her feathers--resemble
+the earth.... And when she soars she praises God most sweetly." Such
+was his desire to protect them that he once said if he could only have
+speech with the Emperor he would entreat him to pass a special edict
+for the preservation of his sisters the larks, and command the "Mayors
+of the cities and the Lord of the castles to throw grain on the roads
+by the walled towns" on the feast of the Nativity, so that all the
+birds should rejoice with man on that day. He found great joy in the
+open fields, the vineyards, the rocky ravines, and the forests which
+gave shelter to his feathered brethren; running water and the
+greenness of the orchards, earth, fire, air, and the winds so invited
+him to divine love that often he passed the whole day praising the
+marvels of creation. No wonder he turned his steps more willingly up
+the mountain paths to the hermitage of the Carceri than towards the
+crowded cities. Nature was his companion, his breviary the mirror
+wherein he saw reflected the face of the Creator. In the song of the
+nightingales, in the sound of their wings, in the petals of a tiny
+flower, in the ever changing glory of his own Umbrian valley he was
+always reminded of God, and for this he has been rightly called a
+"Pan-Christian."
+
+There is not a corner in Umbria, one might almost say in Italy, which
+does not bear some record of the passage of the saint. The sick were
+brought to him and cured, those in trouble laid their sorrows before
+him and went away comforted. When anything went wrong, a hasty message
+was sent to Francis, and all with child-like simplicity trusted in him
+to set things right. We even hear that the people of Gubbio, being
+persecuted by a fierce wolf, had recourse to him, for they failed to
+protect themselves though the men sallied forth "as if going to
+battle." The saint had little difficulty in persuading Brother Wolf to
+lead a respectable life; and he, seeing the advantage of a peaceful
+existence, bowed his head and placed his paw, as a solemn seal to the
+compact, in the hand of Francis amid the joyful cries of the people
+who marvelled greatly at the "novelty of the miracle." After this he
+could be seen walking gently through the streets of Gubbio to receive
+his daily ration at every door, cared for by the citizens "and not a
+dog would wag even his tongue against him." When Brother Wolf died
+there was bitter mourning in the city, for all felt as if a friend had
+passed away, and there was none left to remind them of the kindly
+saint who had helped them in their need. "Am I expected to believe
+these fairy tales?" some may ask with a sneer. The exact events
+related--no--but the spirit of these legends is more necessary to a
+true conception of the saint and the times in which he lived than all
+the histories that can ever be written about him. The Umbrians
+pictured him as they saw and understood him, and tradition going from
+mouth to mouth found finally its perfect expression in the "Little
+Flowers of St. Francis." Wonders and miracles are in every page, it is
+true, but then the peasants will tell you all things are possible in
+Umbria; the taming of wild beasts, the silencing of garrulous swallows
+who chattered so loudly while he preached, do not seem stranger to
+them than the conversion of brigands and murderers, for did not the
+very angels obey his wishes and play and sing to him one night when he
+lay ill in a lonely hermitage, longing for the sound of sweet strains
+to break the awful stillness round him?
+
+Francis would have been sorely troubled had he foreseen the numberless
+miracles his biographers were going to attribute to him, for no saint
+was ever humbler. Even in his lifetime, oppressed by the homage paid
+him, he would say to his adorers with a touch of quaint humour: "do
+not be in such haste to proclaim me a saint, for I may still be the
+father of children." He was always fearful lest people should
+overrate his good actions, and his horror of hypocrisy drove him to
+confess aloud to the people gathered round to listen to a sermon, in
+what manner he had given way to the desires of "Brother Body." Upon
+one occasion having used lard in lieu of the less wholesome oil when
+he was ill, he began his sermon by saying: "Ye come to me with great
+devoutness believing me to be a saint, but I do confess unto God and
+unto you that this Lent I have eaten cakes made with lard." Another
+time, after a severe chill, his companions sewed some fox-skin inside
+his habit to keep him somewhat warmer during the bitter cold, but he
+was not happy until a piece had been sewn also on the outside so that
+all might see the luxury he allowed himself.
+
+It may at first seem strange that one so simple should have exercised
+such extraordinary influence on men and women of all ranks, an
+influence which has lasted with undiminished force for seven hundred
+years. But we must remember that a people, however ready to listen to
+the words of a reformer (especially an Italian crowd), will hardly be
+moved by calmness or sense; only when one like Francis stirs their
+imagination by a peculiar way of announcing God's word, and by acts
+sometimes bordering on insanity, can he completely succeed in winning
+them. The Assisans, at first shocked by some of the spectacles they
+witnessed in their sleepy town, jeered and murmured, until at last the
+saint literally took them by storm; and the more he risked their good
+opinion the louder they applauded him and wept for their sins.
+Astonishment was at its height when on the way to some service at the
+cathedral, the citizens saw Francis approaching them "naked save for
+his breeches," while Brother Leo carried his habit. He has gone mad
+through too much penance, some thought. The truth was that Francis had
+imposed this same penance on Brother Ruffino who was then preaching to
+the people in the cathedral, and his conscience smote him so that he
+began to chide himself, saying: "Why art thou so presumptuous, son of
+Bernardone, vile little man, as to command Fra Ruffino, who is one of
+the noblest of the Assisans, to go and preach to the people as though
+he were mad."... So when Ruffino's sermon was ended Francis went up
+into the pulpit and preached with such eloquence on his Lady Poverty
+and on the nakedness and shame of the Passion suffered by Our Lord
+Jesus Christ "that the whole church was filled with the sound of
+weeping and wailing such as had never before been heard in Assisi."
+Thus did the force of originality win the people, and all those who
+had jeered but a few minutes before were much "edified and comforted
+by this act of St. Francis and Brother Ruffino; and St. Francis having
+reclad Brother Ruffino and himself, returned to the Portiuncula
+praising and glorifying God, who had given them grace to abase
+themselves to the edification of Christ's little sheep."
+
+By word and example Francis taught his disciples to be especially
+humble towards the clergy. "If ye be sons of peace," he often said,
+"ye shall win both clergy and people, and this is more acceptable to
+God than to win the people only and to scandalise the clergy. Cover
+their backslidings and supply their many defects, and when ye have
+done this be ye the more humble." He had to struggle against much
+opposition among the bishops, who looked upon him and his friars as
+intruders encroaching upon their rights. People had often advised him
+to obtain a Bull from Rome, to enable him to preach without asking
+permission, but it was through the power of persistent meekness that
+he wished to win his way to every heart, and the only weapons he used
+were those of love. St. Bonaventura tells us that the Bishop of Imola
+absolutely refused to let Francis call the citizens together and
+preach to them. "It suffices, friar, that I preach to the people
+myself," was the cross reply, and Francis, drawing his cowl over his
+head, humbly went his way. But after the short space of an hour he
+retraced his steps, and the bishop inquired with some anger why he had
+returned. He made answer in all humility of heart and speech: "My
+lord, if a father sends his son out at one door there is nothing left
+for him but to return by another." Then the bishop, vanquished by his
+humility, embraced him with a joyful countenance, saying: "Thou and
+all thy brethren shall have a general licence to preach throughout my
+diocese, as the reward of thy holy humility."[40]
+
+This was the saint, gentle and sweet among men, who won the friendship
+of Ugolino, Bishop of Ostia (afterwards Pope Gregory IX). The bishop
+often spent quiet hours at the Portiuncula, trying perhaps to find, in
+the companionship of the saint and his poor friars, a peace he in vain
+sought amid the luxury of the Papal Court. Celano,[41] who may have
+been present during one of these meetings, tells us how he delighted
+in throwing off his rich robes and clothing himself in the Franciscan
+habit. In these moments of humility he would reverently bend the knee
+to Francis and kiss his hands. Besides his great admiration and love
+for the personality of the saint, he was not slow to perceive the
+services Francis had rendered in endeavouring to restore something of
+the pristine purity to Christianity, and further, the Order was fast
+becoming of political importance. The work of organising a community,
+no longer a handful of Assisan knights and yeomen following in the
+footsteps of their leader, was by no means an easy task; and Ugolino
+saw his way to bring it more closely into the service of the Church.
+Francis, whether willingly or not we cannot say, begged the Pope to
+name Ugolino Patron and Father of his Order. This was readily
+accorded, for it was felt in the papal circle that Francis was not so
+easy to drive as became a submissive child of the Church. They could
+not complain of actual disobedience, but he liked doing things his own
+way. By some at Rome it was suggested to him that he should adopt the
+Benedictine rule, by others that he might join his Order to that of St
+Dominic, but the saint smiled sweetly, and though so dove-like none
+succeeded in entangling him in their diplomatic nets. Indeed he
+puzzled Ugolino many times, and both Innocent III and Honorius III
+were never quite sure whether they had to do with a simpleton or a
+saint. The Roman prelates, completely out of sympathy with his
+doctrine of poverty, were only too ready to thwart him, and Ugolino
+knowing this advised him "not to go beyond the mountains" but remain
+in Italy to protect the interests of his order. He further persuaded
+him to come to Rome and preach before the Pope and cardinals, thinking
+that the personality of the saint might perchance win their favour.
+Anxious to do honour to his patron, Francis composed a sermon and
+committed it to memory with great care. When the slight, grey figure,
+the dust of the Umbrian roads still clinging to his sandals, stood up
+in the spacious hall of the Lateran before Honorius and the venerable
+cardinals, Ugolino watched with anxious eyes the course of events. In
+mortal fear "he supplicated God with all his being that the simplicity
+of the holy man should not become an object of ridicule," and
+resigning himself to Providence he waited. There was a moment of
+suspense, of awful silence, for Francis had completely forgotten the
+sermon he had so carefully learned by heart. But his humility
+befriended him; stepping forward a few paces with a gesture of regret
+he quietly confessed what had happened, and then, as if indeed
+inspired, he broke forth into one of his most eloquent sermons. "He
+preached with such fervour of spirit," says Celano, "that being unable
+to contain himself for joy whilst proclaiming the Word of God, he
+moved even his feet in the manner of one dancing, not for play, but
+driven thereto by the strength of the divine love that burnt within
+him: therefore he incited none to laughter but drew tears of sorrow
+from all."[42]
+
+When Francis had been preaching for some time a certain weariness
+seems to have possessed him, and he would then, "leaving behind him
+the tumult of the multitude," retire to some secret place to dwell in
+constant prayer and heavenly contemplation. There were many of these
+refuges, but none so isolated from the world as the lofty mountain of
+La Vernia, which had been given to him by Count Orlando Cattani of
+Chiusi, whose ruined castle can still be seen on a spur of the
+Apennines just below. The "Sacred Mount" rises clear above the valley
+of the Casentino to the height of 4000 feet, between the sources of
+the Tiber and the Arno, and looks straight down upon one of the
+perfect views in Tuscany which Dante speaks of:
+
+     "The rills that glitter down the grassy slopes
+     Of Casentino, making fresh and soft
+     The banks whereby they glide to Arno's stream."
+
+Range upon range of splendid hills falling away gradually to the south
+gather in their folds the pale-tinted mists of early summer, and seem
+to guard the valley from other lands, so intense is the feeling of
+remoteness. From the white towns gleaming like pearls on their green
+slopes above the young Arno cradled by poplars, is seen the sharp
+outline of La Vernia against the sky, always black, gloomy, and
+defiant above the cornfields and vineyards. Its summit, covered with
+fir-trees, straight and close together, appears like a great whale
+that has rested there since the days of the flood. Below the forest
+lie huge boulders of rock and yawning chasms, upheaved, says the
+legend, during the earthquake at the time of the Crucifixion. To this
+solitary place came Francis in the year 1224 to celebrate by forty
+days of fasting and prayer the feast of St. Michael the Archangel,
+accompanied by Fra Leo "the little sheep of God," Fra Angelo "the
+gentle knight," Fra Illuminato, and Fra Masseo. On former visits he
+had been content to stay in a cell beneath a "fair beech tree" built
+for him by Count Orlando close to where the brethren lived; but this
+time he chose a spot on the loneliest side of the mountain where no
+sound could be heard. To reach it the brethren had to throw a bridge
+across a "horrible and fearful cleft in a huge rock," and after they
+had fashioned him a rough shelter they left him in utter solitude;
+only once in the day and once at night Fra Leo was permitted to bring
+a little bread and water which he left by the bridge, stealing
+silently away unless called by Francis. Near this lonely retreat a
+falcon had built a nest and used to wake him regularly a little before
+matins with his cry, beating his wings at his cell until the saint
+rose to recite his orations. Francis, charmed with so exact a clock,
+obeyed the summons, and such was the sympathy between the friends
+that the falcon always knew when he was weary or ill, and would then
+"gently, and like a discreet and compassionate person, utter his cry
+later ... and besides this, in the day would sometimes stay quite
+tamely with him." The birds, which had shown joy on his arrival,
+filled the woods with their sweetest song while the angels visited
+him, sometimes playing such beautiful music on the viol that "his soul
+almost melted away." But Francis, honoured as he was by celestial
+spirits, and by man and beast, had still to receive the greatest sign
+of grace ever accorded to a saint, and the story has been gravely
+related by ancient and modern writers for seven centuries.
+
+The moment had certainly arrived for accomplishing the high designs of
+Providence, for Francis through prayer, fasting, and constant
+contemplation on the Passion of Christ, had become like some spiritual
+being untrammelled by the bonds of the flesh. It was on the feast of
+the Exaltation of the Cross while praying on the mountain side, that
+the marvellous vision was vouchsafed to him. The dawn had hardly
+broken when "he beheld a Seraph who had six wings, which shone with
+such splendour that they seemed on fire, and with swift flight he came
+above the face of the Blessed Francis who was gazing upwards to the
+sky, and from the midst of the wings of the Seraph appeared suddenly
+the likeness of a man crucified with hands and feet stretched out in
+the manner of a cross, and they were marked with wounds like those of
+Our Lord Jesus Christ, and two wings of the said Seraph were above the
+head, two were spread as though flying, and two veiled the whole
+body."[43] Flames of fire lit up the mountains and the valley during
+the vision, and some muleteers seeing "the bright light shining
+through the windows of the inn where they slept, saddled and loaded
+their beasts thinking the day had broke." When Francis rose from his
+knees and looked up to the sky where the seraph had been and where now
+the sun was rising over the Casentino and her steepled towns, he bore
+on his body the marks of the Crucified. His hands and feet appeared as
+though pierced through with nails, the heads being on the inside of
+the hands and on the upper part of the feet, while blood flowed from
+the wound in his side. Thus transformed by his surpassing love for
+Christ, Francis returned to his four companions and recounted to them
+his vision, trying all the while out of his deep humility to hide from
+them the signs of the Stigmata. Before returning to Assisi he bade
+them a final farewell, for he knew this was the last time he would
+come with them to La Vernia. The scene is beautifully pictured in a
+letter of Fra Masseo, which, as far as we know, is here translated for
+the first time.
+
+
+JESUS, MARY MY HOPE.
+
+"Brother Masseo, sinner, and unworthy servant of Jesus Christ,
+companion of Brother Francis of Assisi, man most dear unto God, peace
+and greetings to all brethren and sons of the great patriarch Francis,
+standard-bearer of Christ.
+
+"The great patriarch having determined to bid a last farewell to this
+sacred mount on the 30th of September 1224, day of the feast of St
+Jerome, the Count Orlando of Chiusi sent to him an ass in order that
+he might ride thereon, forasmuch as he could not put his feet to the
+ground by reason of their being sore wounded and pierced with nails.
+In the morning early having heard mass, according to his wont, in
+Sta. Maria degli Angeli,[44] he called all the brethren into the
+chapel, and bade them in holy obedience to live together in charity,
+to be diligent in prayer, always to tend the said place carefully, and
+to officiate therein day and night. Moreover he commended the whole of
+the sacred mount to all his brethren present, as well as to those to
+come, exhorting them to have a care that the said place should not be
+profaned, but always reverenced and respected, and he gave his
+benediction to all inhabitants thereof, and to all who bore thereunto
+reverence and respect. On the other hand, he said: 'Let them be
+confounded who are wanting in respect to the said place, and from God
+let them expect a well-merited chastisement.' To me he said: 'Know,
+Brother Masseo, that my intention is that on this mount shall live
+friars having the fear of God before their eyes, and chosen among the
+best of my order, let therefore the superiors strive to send here the
+worthiest friars; ah! ah! ah! Brother Masseo, I will say no more.'
+
+"He then commanded and ordered me, Brother Masseo, and Brother Angelo,
+Brother Silvestro and Brother Illuminato, to have a special care of
+the place where that great miracle of the holy Stigmata occurred.[45]
+Having said that, he exclaimed 'Farewell, farewell, farewell, Brother
+Masseo.' Then turning to Brother Angelo, he said: 'Farewell,
+farewell,' and the same to Brother Silvestro and Brother Illuminato:
+'Remain in peace, most dear sons, farewell, I depart from you in the
+body, but I leave my heart with you; I depart with Brother Lamb of
+God, and am going to Sta. Maria degli Angeli[46] never to return here
+more; I am going, farewell, farewell, farewell to all! Farewell,
+sacred mount. Farewell, mount Alvernia. Farewell, mount of the angels.
+Farewell, beloved Brother Falcon, I thank thee for the charity thou
+didst show me, farewell! Farewell, Sasso Spicco,[47] never more shall
+I come to visit thee, farewell, farewell, farewell, oh rock which
+didst receive me within thine entrails, the devil being cheated by
+thee, never more shall we behold one another![48] Farewell, Sta.
+Maria degli Angeli, mother of the eternal Word. I commend to thee
+these my sons.'
+
+"Whilst our beloved father was speaking these words, our eyes poured
+forth torrents of tears, so that he also wept as he turned to go,
+taking with him our hearts, and we remained orphans because of the
+departure of such a father.
+
+"I, Brother Masseo, have written this with tears. May God bless us."
+
+For two years after his return from La Vernia, Francis, bearing the
+marks of the Seraph, continued to preach and visit the lazar houses,
+although he was so ill and worn by fasts and vigils that his
+companions marvelled how the spirit could still survive in so frail a
+body. Moreover he had become nearly blind, remaining sometimes sixty
+days and more unable to see the light of day or even the light of
+fire. It was to him a martyrdom that while walking in the woods led by
+one of the brethren, the scenes he loved so well should be hidden by
+this awful darkness. He could only dream of the past when he had
+journeyed from one walled town to another through the valley of
+Spoleto; sometimes rejoicing in the brilliant sunshine, often watching
+the storms sweeping so gloriously over the land in summer when the
+rocky beds of torrents were filled with rushing water and clouds cast
+purple shadows across the plain. Now those wanderings were over, and
+the spirit imprisoned within him found more than ever an outlet in
+music, and "the strain of divine murmurs which fell upon his ears,
+broke out in Gallic songs."
+
+He went on his way singing to meet death, and the greater his
+sufferings the sweeter were the melodies he composed. It was during an
+access of his infirmities and blindness that St. Clare induced him to
+take some days of rest in a small wattle hut she had built in the
+olive grove close to her convent of San Damiano. After nights of
+bitter tribulation, of bodily suffering, passed in earnest prayer, he
+arose one morning with his heart full of new praises to the Creator.
+Meditating for a while he exclaimed, "Altissimo, omnipotente bono
+Signore," and then composed a chaunt thereon, and taught it to his
+companions so that they might proclaim and sing it. His soul was so
+comforted and full of joy that he desired to send for Brother
+Pacifico, who in the world had borne the title of King of Verse and
+had been a most renowned troubadour, and to give to him as companions
+some of the brethren to go about the world preaching and singing
+praises to the Lord ... he willed also that when the preaching was
+ended all together should as minstrels of God sing lauds unto Him. And
+at the close of the singing he ordered that the preacher should say to
+the people: "We are the minstrels of the Lord God wherefore we desire
+to be rewarded by you, to wit, that you persevere in true
+repentance."[49]
+
+It was the Canticle of the Sun which Francis composed in his days of
+blindness, leaving it as an undying message to the world, an appeal
+that they should not cease to love the things he had brought to their
+knowledge during those earlier days of his ministry among them. He
+poured the teaching of a life-time into a song of passionate praise to
+the Creator of a world he had loved and found so beautiful; and the
+sustained melody of the long, rolling lines charm our fancy like the
+sound of waves during calm nights breaking upon the beach. The poem,
+though rough and unhewn, still remains one of the marvels of early
+literature, and to Francis belongs the honour of setting his seal on
+the religious poetry of his country. His was the first glow of colour
+proclaiming the dawn--the first notes of song which, coming from
+Assisi, passed along the ranks of Italian poets to be taken up by
+Dante in "full-throated ease." We give the Canticle of the Sun in the
+exquisite version of Matthew Arnold.
+
+"O most high, almighty, good Lord God, to Thee belong praise, glory,
+honour, and all blessing!
+
+"Praised be my Lord God with all His creatures; and specially our
+brother the sun, who brings us the day, and who brings us the light;
+fair is he, and shining with a very great splendour: O Lord, he
+signifies to us Thee!
+
+"Praised be my Lord for our sister the moon, and for the stars, the
+which he has set clear and lovely in heaven.
+
+"Praised be our Lord for our brother the wind, and for air and cloud,
+calms and all weather, by the which thou upholdest in life all
+creatures.
+
+"Praised be my Lord for our sister water, who is very serviceable unto
+us, and humble, and precious, and clean.
+
+"Praised be my Lord for our brother fire, through whom thou givest us
+light in the darkness; and he is bright, and pleasant, and very
+mighty, and strong.
+
+"Praised be my Lord for our mother the earth, the which doth sustain
+us and keep us, and bringeth forth divers fruits and flowers of many
+colours, and grass.
+
+"Praised be my Lord for all those who pardon one another for his
+love's sake, and who endure weakness and tribulation; blessed are they
+who peaceably shall endure, for Thou, O most Highest, shalt give them
+a crown![50]
+
+"Praised be my Lord for our sister, the death of the body, from whom
+no man escapeth. Woe to him who dieth in mortal sin! Blessed are they
+who are found walking by Thy most holy will, for the second death
+shall have no power to do them harm.
+
+"Praise ye and bless ye the Lord, and give thanks unto Him, and serve
+Him with great humility."
+
+  [Illustration: THE ARMS OF THE FRANCISCANS.]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[18] For a true picture of the condition of Italian towns, torn by
+strife, decimated by famine, and suffering from leprosy brought by the
+crusaders, see Brewer's admirable preface in vol. iv. of the
+_Monumenta Franciscana_.
+
+[19] The first tournament took place at Bologna in 1147.
+
+[20] Folgore di San Gimignano, translated by D. G. Rossetti.
+
+[21] These were the first troubadours to visit the Italian courts,
+driven from Provence by the crusades against the Albigenses.
+
+[22] A certain Bernardo Moriconi, leaving his brother to carry on the
+business at Lucca, then famous for its manufacture of silk stuffs,
+came and settled at Assisi where he got the nickname Bernardone--the
+big Bernard. Whether in allusion to his person or to his prosperity,
+we cannot say, but the family name was lost sight of and his son was
+known as Pietro Bernardone.
+
+[23] Celano. _Vita_ I. cap. 1.
+
+[24] Ruskin. _The two paths_: Lecture III.
+
+[25] Celano. _Vita_ I. cap. 2.
+
+[26] "Le vide lamentable de sa vie lui etait tout a coup apparu; il
+etait effraye de cette solitude d'une grande ame, dans laquelle il n'y
+a point d'autel." Paul Sabatier. _Vie de S. Francois d'Assise_, p. 17.
+
+[27] From a 15th century translation of the will of St. Francis. See
+_Monumenta Franciscana_. Chronicles edited by J. S. Brewer vol. iv. p.
+562.
+
+[28] Life of Beato Egidio in the _Little Flowers of St. Francis_.
+
+[29] Life of Beato Egidio in the _Little Flowers of St. Francis_.
+
+[30] One of the most beautiful stories in the _Fioretti_ (chapter
+xxxiv.) recounts how St. Louis, King of France, visited Beato Egidio
+at Perugia. The king and the poor friar kneeling together in the
+courtyard of the convent, embracing each other like familiar friends,
+is a picture such as only Umbrian literature could have left us. There
+was absolute silence between the two, yet we are told St. Louis
+returned to his kingdom and Egidio to his cell with "marvellous
+content and consolation" in their souls.
+
+[31] See _Supra_, p. 47.
+
+[32] Quoted by Sigonius in his work on the Bishops of Bologna. _Opera
+omnia_, v. iii., translated by Canon Knox Little. _Life of St. Francis
+of Assisi_, p. 179.
+
+[33] _Speculum Perfectionis_, cap. cv., edited by Paul Sabatier.
+
+[34] _Fioretti_, cap. xiii.
+
+[35] To franciscan influence must surely be traced the rise of the
+Flagellants at Perugia in 1265.
+
+[36] See _Histoire de Sainte Elizabeth_, Comte de Montalembert, pp.
+71, 72.
+
+[37] It is related that when in 1216 some Franciscans went on a
+mission to Germany the only word they knew was "Ja," which they used
+upon every occasion. In one town they were asked if they were heretics
+preaching a rival faith to catholicism, and as they continued to say
+"Ja, Ja," the citizens threw them into prison, and after beating them
+cruelly drove them ignominiously from the country. The account they
+gave of their experience to the other friars at Assisi created such a
+panic that they were often heard in their prayers to implore God to
+deliver them from the barbarity of the Teutons.
+
+[38] Celano. _Vita_ I. cap. xxi.
+
+[39] Paul Sabatier. _Vie de S. Francis d'Assise_, p. 205.
+
+[40] _Vita di S. Francesco_, p. 76. Edizione Amoni (1888. Roma).
+
+[41] Celano, a learned nobleman from Celano in the Abruzzi, joined the
+Order in 1215, and gives by far the most charming and vivid account of
+St Francis, for besides knowing him well he had the gift of writing in
+no ordinary degree.
+
+[42] _Vita_ I. cap. xxvii.
+
+[43] _Vita di S. Francesco_, da S. Bonaventura, p. 148, Edizione
+Amoni.
+
+[44] This was a small chapel built for St. Francis by Count Orlando,
+and must not be confounded with the church of the same name near
+Assisi.
+
+[45] The earnest wishes of the saint are to this day carried out by
+faithful friars who, even through the terrible winter months, live at
+La Vernia, suffering privation and cold with cheerfulness. At midnight
+a bell calls them to sing matins in the chapel of the Stigmata
+connected with the convent by an open colonnade, down which the
+procession files, following a crucifix and lanterns. When the service
+has ceased, the monks flit like ghosts behind the altar while the
+lights are extinguished and in the gloom comes the sound of clashing
+chains. For an hour they chastise themselves: then the torches are
+relit, the chanting is resumed, and calmly they pass down the corridor
+towards their cells. Moonlight may stream into the colonnade across
+the dark forms, or gusts of wind drive the snow in heaps before them,
+but the chanting is to be heard, and the monotonous cries of _ora pro
+nobis_ break the awful solitude of night throughout the year upon the
+mountain of La Vernia.
+
+[46] Here reference is made to the Portiuncula, near Assisi.
+
+[47] The Sasso Spicco, which still can be seen at La Vernia, is a
+block of rock rising high above the mountain ridge, and seems to hang
+suspended in the air. It forms a roof over dark and cavernous places
+where St. Francis loved to pray, often spending his nights there with
+stones for his bed.
+
+[48] The _Fioretti_ relates that once while St. Francis was praying on
+the edge of a precipice, not far from the spot where he had received
+the Stigmata, suddenly the devil appeared in terrible form amidst the
+loud roar of a furious tempest. St. Francis, unable to flee or to
+endure the ferocious aspect of the devil, turned his face and whole
+body to the rock to which he clung; and the rock, as though it had
+been soft wax, received the impress of the saint and sheltered him.
+Thus by the aid of God he escaped.
+
+[49] _Speculum Perfectionis_, cap. c., edited by Paul Sabatier.
+
+[50] St. Francis composed this verse later on the occasion of a
+quarrel which arose between the Bishop of Assisi and the Podesta. The
+last couplet was added at the Portiuncula while he was on his
+death-bed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+_The Carceri, Rivo-Torto and Life at the Portiuncula_
+
+     "O beata solitudo,
+     O sola beatudine."
+
+
+These three places near Assisi, so intimately associated with St.
+Francis, were in a way emblematic of the various stages in the rise
+and growth of his young community, and we shall see that the saint
+went from one to the other, not by chance, but with a settled purpose
+in his mind. The Carceri he kept as a something apart from, and
+outside his daily life; it was a hermitage in the strict sense of the
+word, where, far from the sound of any human voice, he could come and
+live a short time in isolated communion with God. As his followers
+increased, and the Order he had founded with but a few brethren
+developed even in its first years into a great army, we can easily
+understand the longing for solitude which at times became too strong
+to be resisted, for his nature was well fitted for the hermit's life,
+and it called him with such persistence to the woods among the flowers
+and the birds he loved, that had he been less tender for the
+sufferings of others, more blind to the ills of the Church, it is
+possible that the whole course of events might have been altered.
+Giotto would not have been called to Assisi, or if he had been, the
+legends told to him by the friars might not have inspired him to paint
+such master-pieces as he has left us in the Franciscan Basilica; and
+we should now be the poorer because St. Francis had chosen seven
+hundred years ago to live in an Etruscan tomb at Orte, or in a grotto
+on Mount Subasio. So much depended, not only upon what St. Francis
+achieved, but on the way in which he chose to work. Who therefore can
+tell how much we owe to the little mountain retreat of the Carceri,
+where, spending such hours of wondrous peace surrounded by all that he
+most cherished in nature, the saint could refresh himself and gain new
+strength for long periods of arduous labour among men.
+
+  [Illustration: HERMITAGE OF THE CARCERI]
+
+The Carceri came into the possession of St. Francis through the
+generosity of the Benedictines who, until his advent, had held
+unlimited sway in Umbria. Many churches, and we may say, almost all
+the hermitages of the surrounding country belonged to them. But their
+principal stronghold, built in the eleventh century, stood on the
+higher slopes of Mount Subasio, while the Carceri, lying a little to
+the west, was used by them probably as a place of retreat when wearied
+of monastic life. Both monastery and hermitage seem to have been
+quiet enough, and we only occasionally hear of the Benedictine monks
+starting off on a visit to some hermit of renowned sanctity, or going
+upon some errand of mercy among the peasants in the valley, whom they
+often surprised by marvellous though somewhat aimless miracles wrought
+for their edification. Then early in the fourteenth century these
+hermit monks of Mount Subasio suddenly found themselves in the midst
+of the fighting of a mediaeval populace, for the Assisans, not slow to
+discover the great military importance of the Benedictine Abbey,
+wished to possess it. When the struggle between Guelph and Ghibelline
+was at its height, the monks were driven to take refuge in the town,
+while their home was taken possession of by the exiled party who used
+it as a fortress whence they could sally forth and harass the eastern
+approach to Assisi. Perpetual skirmishes took place beneath its walls
+until the roving adventurer Broglia di Trino, who had made himself
+master of the town in 1399, in a solemn council held at the Rocca
+Maggiore issued an edict that the Monastery of St. Benedict was to be
+razed to the ground, determining thus to deprive the turbulent nobles
+and their party of so sure a refuge in times of civil war.
+
+The solid walls and fine byzantine columns of what once was the most
+celebrated abbey in Umbria now remain much as in the mediaeval days of
+their wreckage, and, until a few years ago when some repairs were
+made, the church was open for the mountain birds to nest in, and wild
+animals used it as their lair.
+
+But both church and monastery stood proudly upon the mountain height
+above the plain when St. Francis, then the young mendicant looked upon
+by many as a madman, would knock at the gates, and the abbot followed
+by his monks, came out to listen to the humble requests he so often
+had to make. These prosperous religious most generously patronised St.
+Francis in the time of his obscurity, giving him the chapel of the
+Portiuncula, and later (the date is uncertain but some say in 1215)
+they allowed him to take possession of the still humbler chapel and
+huts of the Carceri. Even to call such shelters huts is giving them
+too grand a name, for they were but caverns excavated in the rock,
+scattered here and there in a deep mountain gorge. They can still be
+seen, unchanged since the days of St. Francis save for the tresses of
+ivy growing thick, like a curtain, across the entrance, for now there
+are none to pass in and out to pray there.
+
+Even the attempt to describe the loneliness and discomfort of this
+hermitage seems to strike terror into the hearts of later franciscan
+writers, who no longer caring to live in caves, only saw Dantesque
+visions when they thought of these arid, sunburnt rocks, rushing
+torrents and wild wastes of mountains which even shepherds never
+reached. But luckily in those days there was one Umbrian who loved
+such isolated spots; and the charm of that silence, born of the very
+soul of Francis and guarded jealously by nature herself during long
+centuries in memory of him, now tempts us up the mountain side upon a
+pilgrimage to the one place where his spirit still lives in all its
+primitive vigour and purity.
+
+The road leading to the Carceri[51] from the Porta Cappucini passes
+first through rich corn fields and olive groves, but as it skirts
+round Mount Subasio towards the ravine it becomes a mere mountain
+track. Only here and there, where peasants have patiently scraped away
+the stones, grows a little struggling corn, while small hill flowers
+nestle between the rocks unshaded even by olive trees; the colour of a
+stray Judas tree, or a lilac bush in bloom, only makes the landscape
+seem more barren and forlorn. Looking upon the road to Spello, winding
+down the hill through luxuriant fields of indian corn and olive
+groves, with the oak trees spreading their still fresher green over
+the vineyards of the plain, we feel that this pathway to the Carceri
+is something novel and unlike anything at Assisi which we have
+hitherto explored. Just as we are marvelling at its loveliness, a
+sudden turn brings Assisi once more in view, and the sight we get of
+it from here carries us straight back to the days of St. Francis; for
+the great basilica and convent are hidden by the brow of the hill, and
+what we now see is exactly what he looked upon so often as he hastened
+from Assisi to his hermitage, or left it when he was ready to take up
+the burden of men's lives once more. The old walls, looking now much
+as they did after a stormy battle with Perugia, stretch round the same
+rose-tinted town, which, strangely enough, time has altered but
+slightly--it is only a little more toned in colour, the Subasian stone
+streaked here and there with deeper shades of yellow and pink, while
+the castle is more ruined, rearing itself less proudly from its green
+hill-top than in earlier days of splendour. But charming as the view
+of the town is, we quickly leave it to watch the changes of light and
+colour in the valley and on the wide-bedded Tescio as it twists and
+turns in countless sharp zig-zags till we lose it where it joins the
+Tiber--there where the mist rises. We might travel far and not find so
+fascinating a river as the Tescio; only a trickle of water it is true,
+but sparkling in the sunshine like a long flash of lightning which
+has fallen to earth and can find no escape from a tangle of fields and
+vineyards.[52] Then our road turns away again from the glowing valley
+shimmering in the haze of a late May afternoon, and mounting ever
+higher we plunge into the very heart of the Assisan mountain,
+uncultivated, wild, colourless and yet how strangely beautiful.
+
+Another half mile brings us round the mountain side to a narrow gorge,
+and the only thing in sight except the ilex trees is an arched doorway
+with a glimpse, caught through the half open gate, of a tiny
+courtyard. A step further on and we find ourselves standing amidst a
+cluster of cells and chapels seeming as if they hung from the bare
+rocks with nothing to prevent them falling straight into the depths of
+the ravine; and the silence around is stranger far than the mountain
+solitude. Surely none live here, we think, when suddenly a
+brown-clothed friar looks round the corner of a door, and without
+waste of time or asking of questions beckons us to follow, telling
+rapidly as he goes the story of each tree, rock, cell and shrine.
+
+Crossing two or three chapels and passing through a trap-door and down
+a ladder, we reach a narrow cave-like cell where St. Francis used to
+sleep during those rare moments when he was not engaged in prayer. As
+at La Vernia this "bed" was scooped out of the rock, and a piece of
+wood served him as a pillow. Adjoining is an oratory where the
+crucifix the saint always carried with him is preserved. The doors are
+so narrow and so low that the smallest person must stoop and edge in
+sideways. From these underground caves it is a joy to emerge once
+more into the sunlight, and one of the delightful surprises of the
+place is to step straight out of the oppressive darkness of the cells
+into the ilex wood, with the banks above and around us glowing with
+sweet-scented cyclamen, yellow orchids, and long-stemmed violets. It
+is not surprising that St. Francis often left his cell to wander
+further into these woods when the birds, as though they had waited for
+his coming, would gather from all sides and intercept him just as he
+reached the bridge close to the hermitage. While they perched upon an
+ilex tree (which is still to be seen), he stood beneath and talked to
+them as only St. Francis knew how. His first sermon to the birds took
+place at Bevagna, but at the Carceri he was continually holding
+conversations with his little feathered brethren. This perhaps was
+also where he held his nocturnal duet with the nightingale, which was
+singing with especial sweetness just outside his cell. St. Francis
+called Brother Leo to come also and sing and see which would tire
+first, but the "little Lamb of God" replied that he had no voice,
+refusing even to try. So the saint went forth alone to the strange
+contest, and he and the bird sang the praises of God all through the
+darkest hours of the night until, quite worn out, the saint was forced
+to acknowledge the victory of Brother Nightingale.
+
+Very different is the story of his encounter with the tempting devil
+whom he precipitated by his prayers into the ravine below; the hole
+through which the unwelcome visitor departed is still shown outside
+the saint's cell. Devils do not play a very prominent part in the
+story of the first franciscans, but this mountain solitude seems to
+have so excited the imaginations of later chroniclers that yet another
+story of a devil belongs to the Carceri, and is quaintly recounted in
+the _Fioretti_. This time he appeared to Brother Rufino in the form
+of Christ to tempt him from his life of holiness. "O Brother Rufino,"
+said the devil, "have I not told thee that thou shouldst not believe
+the son of Pietro Bernardone?... And straightway Brother Rufino made
+answer: 'Open thy mouth that I may cast into it filth.' Whereat the
+devil, being exceeding wroth, forthwith departed with so furious a
+tempest and shaking of the rocks of Mount Subasio, which was hard by,
+that the noise of the falling rocks lasted a great while; and so
+furiously did they strike one against the other in rolling down that
+they flashed sparks of terrific fire in all the valley, and at the
+terrible noise they made St. Francis and his companions came out of
+the house in amazement to see what strange thing was this; and still
+is to be seen that exceeding great ruin of rocks."
+
+Close to the spot rendered famous by the devil's visits a bridge
+crosses the gorge of a great torrent, which, threatening once to
+destroy the hermitage, was miraculously dried up by St. Francis, and
+now only fills its rocky bed when any public calamity is near. From it
+a good view is obtained of the hermitage, but perhaps a still better
+is to be had from under the avenue of trees a little beyond, on the
+opposite side of the deep ravine whence the groups of hovels are seen
+to hang like a honeycomb against the mountain side, so tightly set
+together that one can hardly distinguish where the buildings begin and
+the rock ends.
+
+The ilex trees grow in a semicircle round this cluster of cells and
+caverns, and high above it all rises a peak of Mount Subasio, grey as
+St. Francis' habit, with a line of jagged rocks on the summit which
+looks more like the remains of some Umbrian temple of almost
+prehistoric days than the work of nature.
+
+The sides of this mountain ravine approach so near together that only
+a narrow vista of the plain is obtained, blue in the summer haze, with
+no village or even house in sight. It would be difficult to find a
+place with the feeling of utter solitude so unbroken, and as we
+realised that these friars lived here nearly all their life, many not
+even going to Assisi more than once in five years, we said to one of
+them: "How lonely you must be," and he, as though recalling a time of
+struggle in the world, answered: "Doubtless there are better things in
+the town, but here, at the Carceri, there is peace."
+
+  [Illustration: THE CARCERI WITH A VIEW OF THE BRIDGE]
+
+It is the hermit's answer; but now the need of such lives has long
+since passed away, and even St. Francis, living at the time when the
+strain of perpetual warfare, famine, pestilence and crime, created a
+fierce craving for solitude in the lives of many, realised that a
+hermitage must only be a place to rest in for a while--not to live
+in. His anxiety to keep his Order from becoming a contemplative one is
+shown in the following rule he carefully thought out for his
+disciples. "Those religious who desire to sojourn in a hermitage are
+to be at the most three or four. Two are to be like mothers having a
+son. Two are to follow the life of a Martha, the other the life of a
+Mary." Then they were to go forth again strenuously to their work
+abroad and give place to others in search of rest and peace.
+
+But after the death of St. Francis the Carceri gradually lost its
+primitive use, and the principal person who entirely changed its
+character was St. Bernardine of Siena who in 1320 made many
+alterations and additions, building a larger chapel, adding cells and
+a kitchen, but so small, remarks a discontented franciscan chronicler,
+that it barely held the cooking utensils. Although we can no longer
+call it a hermitage, the Carceri became the type of an ideal
+franciscan convent such as Francis dreamed of for his followers when
+he went to live at the Portiuncula, and such it has remained to this
+day. For certainly the place, as left by St. Bernardine, would have
+been approved of by the first franciscans as a dwelling-place, but
+those of later years can only tell us of its discomforts. Here is a
+graphic description of its primeval simplicity which very nearly
+corresponds to its present state: "It were better called a grotto with
+six lairs; one sees but the naked rock untouched by the chisel, all
+rough and full of holes as left by nature; those who see it for the
+first time are seized with extraordinary fear on climbing the ladder
+leading to the dormitory, at each end of which are other poor
+buildings, added by the religious according as need arose for the use
+of the friars, who do not care to live as hermits did in the olden
+times. The refectory is small, and can contain but few friars; a
+brother guardian made an excavation, of sufficient height and breadth
+in the rock, and added thereto a table around which can sit other six
+religious, so that those who take their places at this new table are
+huddled up in the arched niche which forms a baldaquin above their
+heads. There is also a little common room which horrifies all
+beholders, wherein is lit a fire, for besides being far inside the
+rocky mass it is gloomy beyond description by reason of the dense
+smoke always enclosed therein, this is a lively cause to the religious
+of reflection on the hideousness and obscurity of the darkness of
+hell; in lieu of receiving comfort from the fire the poor friars
+generally come out with tears in their eyes." To somewhat atone for
+these discomforts they possessed a fountain, raised, as we are told,
+by the prayers of St. Francis, which never ran dry, "a miracle God has
+wished to perpetuate for the glory of His faithful servants and the
+continual comfort of the monks."
+
+The crucifixion in the chapel built by St. Bernardine adjoining the
+choir, is said to have been painted by his orders. The artistic merits
+of the fresco are questionable, but connected with it is a legend
+possibly invented by some humorous member of the franciscan
+brotherhood in order to point a moral to his companions. "Here," says
+a chronicler, "is adored that most marvellous crucifixion, so famous
+in religion; it is well known to have spoken several times to the
+devout Sister Diomira Bini of the Third Order of St. Francis and a
+citizen of Assisi; and in our own times, in the last century (the
+seventeenth) it was seen by Brother Silvestro dello Spedalicchio to
+detach itself from the cross, and with most gentle slaps on the face,
+warn a worshipper to be reverent and vigilant while praying in this
+His Sacred Oratory."
+
+In a small wooden cupboard in the chapel, according to an inventory
+made two hundred years ago, are preserved some relics, a few of which
+we have unfortunately not been able to identify. Part of the wooden
+pillow used by St. Francis, and a piece of the Golden Gate through
+which our Lord passed into Jerusalem, are still here, but the hair of
+the Virgin, and, strangest of all, some of the earth out of which God
+created Adam, are no longer to be found!
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Ten or twelve friars continued to live at the Carceri for a few years
+after the death of St. Bernardine; some begged their daily bread from
+the villagers in the valley, others dug in the tiny garden at the foot
+of the ravine where a few vegetables grew, and two always remained at
+the convent to spin the wool for the habits of the religious. But soon
+wearying of the life they went to live at other convents, and the
+place passed away from the franciscans into the possession of various
+sects, among others to the excommunicated Fraticelli. In 1415 it was
+given back to the Observants, and Paolo Trinci, who had done much to
+reform the Order, persuaded some friars to live once more at the
+deserted hermitage. Again the Carceri became such an ideal franciscan
+convent that many came from afar to visit it, and there is a strange
+story of how a "woman monk" found a home and died here in the middle
+of the fifteenth century.
+
+"Beata Anonima," a chronicler recounts, "being already a Cistercian
+nun in the convent of S. Cerbone of Lucca at the time of the siege of
+that city by the Florentines, when the said nuns, for valid reasons,
+were transferred to the convent of Sta. Christina inside the city. Now
+this most fervent servant of God took this opportune time and fled by
+stealth, disguised as a man, and went, or rather flew, to Assisi;
+there, fired with an ardent desire to fight under the seraphic
+standard, she breathlessly climbed the steep slopes of Mount Subasio,
+and having found the horrible cavern of Santa Maria delle Carceri
+fervently entreated those good Fathers to admit her amongst them and
+to bestow on her their sacred habit, for which her longing was
+extreme. At length, having overcome all resistance, believing her to
+be a man as appeared from her dress, and not a woman which in reality
+she was, they admitted her to the convent and gave her the habit of
+religion." She edified all by the holiness of her life and the rigid
+penances she performed, but her health soon suffered and only upon her
+death-bed, surrounded by the friars chanting the psalms for the dying,
+the Blessed Anonima confessed to the fraud she had practised in order
+to dwell in the hermitage rendered so dear because of the memory of
+the Poverello d'Assisi.
+
+
+RIVO-TORTO[53]
+
+A straight and stony road, the old Roman one, now overgrown in many
+parts with grass and trails of ivy and bordered by mulberry and oak
+trees, leads out of the Porta Mojano to two little chapels in the
+plain. Set back from the main road in the midst of the fields few
+people find them, and the peasants know nothing of their story and can
+only tell of a miraculous well in which a youthful saint met his
+death. When his body was brought to the surface a lily had grown from
+his mouth and upon its petals was written in letters of gold the one
+word, _Veritas_, for he had died in the cause of truth. Since then, as
+the peasants recount with pride, many come from afar to drink of the
+waters of this well for it cures every ill. It is over-grown with
+ferns and close by stands an ancient sarcophagus where the children
+sit to eat their midday meal. A piece of old worn sculpture still
+ornaments the chapel of the young martyr, and the feeling of the place
+is very charming, but the pilgrim who comes to Assisi to visit St.
+Francis, has a different picture to recall with another kind of beauty
+belonging to it than that of holy wells and flowering banks and
+meadows.
+
+It is difficult, when looking on San Rufino d'Arce, with its cluster
+of vine-shaded peasant houses, and then on Santa Maria Maddalena,
+narrow windowed, the small apse marking it as a primitive Umbrian
+chapel of the fields, to realise that in the Middle Ages this was a
+leper village separated from Assisi by a little more than a mile of
+open country. And yet here, without doubt, we have Rivo-Torto where,
+even before his famous interview with Innocent III, St. Francis had
+stayed with those three first Assisan companions, Bernard di
+Quintavalle, Peter Cataneo and Egidio. Then in the autumn of 1210,
+when he returned from Rome after the rule of poverty had been
+sanctioned by the Church, but before he was ready to begin his mission
+as preacher, he came to live among the lepers, forming with his
+disciples a little family which we may call the beginning of a first
+franciscan settlement.
+
+The leper village was divided according to the social rank of the
+outcasts, the richer living together near the chapel of Sta. Maria
+Maddalena and forming quite a community with the right of freely
+administering their own goods. As M. Sabatier observes, it was
+therefore not "only a hospital, but almost a little town near the city
+with the same social distinctions of classes."
+
+Those tended by St. Francis were the poorest of the lepers, whose
+wretched hovels lay near the chapel of San Rufino d'Arce; and Celano
+must be referring to this settlement when he tells us how Francis in
+his early days, even if he chanced to look down from Assisi upon the
+houses of the lepers in the plain, would hold his nostrils with his
+hand, because his horror of them was so great.
+
+But as the grace of God touched his heart, making him take pity upon
+all things weak and suffering, he turned the force of his strong
+nature to overcoming this repugnance, and there is a beautiful story
+telling of the first victory gained shortly after his conversion.
+While riding one day near Assisi he met a leper, and filled with
+disgust and even fear at the sight, his first impulse was to turn his
+horse round, but, remembering his new resolutions to follow the
+teaching of Christ, he went forward to meet the poor man, and even
+kissed the hand extended to him for alms. "Then," says St.
+Bonaventure, "having mounted his horse, he looked around him over the
+wide and open plain, but the leper was nowhere to be seen. And Francis
+being filled with wonder and gladness, devoutly gave thanks to God,
+purposing within himself to proceed to still greater things than
+this." Certainly the event heralded a life of holiness, and was the
+means of rousing his latent energies and the feelings for
+self-sacrifice which drove him from the wild and solitary places he
+loved into the very midst of the world, there to work strenuously, in
+every part of Italy, at first among lepers and then among the wealthy,
+the ignorant and the sorrowful.
+
+For the life at Rivo-Torto led by "these valiant despisers of the
+great and good things of this world" we cannot do better than turn to
+the Three Companions (Brothers Masseo, Ruffino and Leo) who knew by
+personal experience the hardships and roughness of the place.
+Feelingly they describe: "a hovel, or rather a cavern abandoned by
+man; the which place was so confined that they could hardly sit down
+to repose themselves. Many a time they had no bread, and ate nought
+but turnips which they begged for here and there in travail and in
+anguish. On the beams of the poor hut the man of God wrote the names
+of the brethren, so that whoso would repose or pray might know his
+place and not disturb, by reason of the cramped and limited space in
+the small hovel, the quietude of the night." Even the appearance of
+Otto IV, close to their hut seems in no way to have disturbed the
+peaceful course of their lives, but only gave St. Francis the
+opportunity of bestowing a timely warning upon the Emperor. Celano,
+ever delighting in the picturesque details of ceremonies and pageants,
+tells us how "there came at that time with much noise and pomp the
+great Emperor on his way to take the terrestrial crown of the Empire;
+now the most holy father with his companions being in the said house
+near the road where the cavalcade was passing, would neither go out to
+see it, nor permit his brethren to go, save one, whom he commanded
+fearlessly to announce to Otto that his glory would be short-lived."
+
+Thus, if the tale be true, a German Emperor was the first to listen to
+Francis' message to a mediaeval world sunk in the love of earthly
+things, and who knows whether the saint's words did not come back to
+Otto again in after years.
+
+The Penitents of Assisi only remained until the spring at Rivo-Torto,
+for even during those few months' sojourn among the lepers their
+numbers had so increased that it became necessary to think of some
+surer abode. One day St. Francis called the brethren to tell them how
+he had thought of obtaining from one of his various kind friends in
+Assisi, a small chapel where they could peacefully say their Hours,
+having some poor little houses for shelter close by built of wattle
+and mud.
+
+His speech was pleasing to the brethren, and so, following the master
+they loved and trusted, all went to dwell at the Portiuncula, where,
+as we shall see, a new life was to begin for them.
+
+
+THE PORTIUNCULA
+
+       "Holy of Holies is this Place of Places,
+       Meetly held worthy of surpassing honour!
+       Happy thereof the surname, 'Of the Angels,'
+       Happier yet the name, 'The Blessed Mary.'
+
+       Now, a true omen, the third name conferreth
+       'The Little Portion' on the Little Brethren,
+       Here, where by night a presence oft of Angels
+       Singing sweet hymns illumineth the watches."
+     (_The Mirror of Perfection_, translated by Sebastian Evans.)
+
+Those who want to realise the charm of the Portiuncula and of the
+memories that cling about it, must try to forget the great church
+which shuts out from it the sunlight, and with the early chroniclers
+as their guides, call up the image of St. Francis with his first
+disciples who in an age of unrest came here to seek for peace.
+
+Make your pilgrimage in the springtime or in the early summer, when
+pink hawthorn and dogroses are flowering in every hedge and the vines
+fill the valley with a delicate green light. Looking at cities and
+villages so purely Umbrian, some spread among cornfields close to a
+swift clear river, others set upon heights which nearly touch the sky
+on stormy days, we forget that beyond these hills and mountains
+encircling the big valley of Umbria stretch other lands as fair. We
+forget, because it is a little world which during long centuries has
+been set apart from all else, and where man has but completed the work
+of nature herself. During the long hours of a summer's day, when the
+sense of remoteness in the still plain is most intense, it brings to
+us, as nothing else can ever do, some feeling of that early time when
+four hermits came from Palestine and found a quiet retreat in the oak
+forests of Assisi.
+
+It was in the year 352, as St. Cyril, Patriarch of Jerusalem, relates,
+when a cross had been seen stretched from Calvary to the Mount of
+Olives and to shine more brightly than the sun, that four holy men,
+impelled by a feeling that some great crisis was at hand, determined
+to visit the shrines of Rome. Having performed their devotions and
+offered many precious relics to Pope Liberius, they expressed a great
+desire to find some hermitage where, each in a silent cell, they could
+meditate upon the marvellous things they had seen in the Eternal City.
+The Pope gave them most excellent advice when he told them to go to
+the Spoletan valley. With his sanction to choose any part of it they
+liked, they passed over the mountains dividing Umbria from the
+Campagna, and by many towns until, when about a mile from Assisi, they
+determined to build their dwellings in the plain, thinking, as indeed
+they might, to find no other spot so suited for a quiet retreat. Close
+to four huts of rough hewn stone and brushwood they erected a tiny
+chapel with a pent roof and narrow window which, perhaps in memory of
+their native valley, they dedicated to St. Mary of Jehosaphat. But
+after a few years, forsaking the life of hermits, they again took up
+their staves and returned home to Palestine by way of the Romagna,
+leaving beneath the altar of the chapel they had built a relic of the
+Virgin's sepulchre.
+
+  [Illustration: SIDE DOOR OF THE PORTIUNCULA BUILT BY ST. BENEDICT]
+
+At different times other devout hermits, charmed by the lonely chapel,
+took possession of it for a time, but it was often deserted for many
+years. Its preservation is due to St. Benedict who, passing through
+Umbria during the early part of the sixth century, was inspired to
+restore the ruined chapel and dwell near it for awhile. He not only
+repaired the walls, but built the two large round arched doors we see
+to this day, and which many declare to be quite out of proportion to
+the rest of the building, but their unusual size is accounted for by
+a charming legend. Once when St. Benedict was praying in the chapel he
+saw a marvellous vision as he knelt wrapt in ecstasy. A crowd of
+people were praying around him to St. Francis, singing hymns of praise
+and calling for mercy on their souls, while outside still greater
+multitudes waited for their turn to come and pray before the shrine.
+St. Benedict, understanding from this that a great saint would one day
+be honoured here, made the two doors in the chapel, and made them
+large enough for many to pass in and out at a time. Thus was the feast
+of the "Pardon of St. Francis" prepared for some seven hundred years
+too soon.
+
+St. Benedict obtained from the Assisans the gift of a small plot of
+ground near the sanctuary, which suggested to him the name of St. Mary
+of the Little Portion--Sta. Maria della Portiuncula. When a few years
+later St. Benedict founded his famous order at Monte Cassino, he did
+not forget the Umbrian chapel he had saved from ruin, and sent some of
+his monks to live there and to minister among the people. Like the
+first hermits they lived in poor huts, saying their Hours in the
+little chapel, until in the eleventh century they built a large
+monastery and church upon the higher slopes of Mount Subasio to the
+east of Assisi, and the Portiuncula was again deserted. But although
+no one lived near, and mass was never celebrated there, it still
+remained in the keeping of the benedictines who occasionally must have
+seen to its repair, and thus preserved it for the coming of St.
+Francis.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It has been suggested to me that the spot selected by the four holy
+pilgrims in the fourth century may have been even then the site of a
+sacred shrine, for the custom of erecting tabernacles over the graves
+of distinguished persons reaches back to very early times. Originally
+designed as a mortuary cell such a structure might, being duly
+oriented, come to be used as a chapel for service.
+
+The subject of "Sepulchral Cellae" will be found treated of by the late
+Sir Samuel Fergusson[54] in a memoir in which he figures some of the
+burial vaults and early oratories of Ireland, some of which are in
+shape identical with Sta. Maria della Portiuncula, with the same pent
+roof, round arched door, and perfectly plain walls. A building thus
+erected over a grave was called _Porticulus_, and any who pillaged "a
+house made in form of a basilica over a dead person" had to pay a
+fine.
+
+From an archaeological point of view there is much to be desired in the
+published descriptions of the Portiuncula. A great part of its
+exterior walls is now covered with frescoes which hide all detail, but
+perhaps a minute examination of the interior walls might reveal
+portions of the foundations built upon by St. Benedict, and we
+sincerely hope that these few words may attract attention to so
+interesting a subject.
+
+But even if the shrine said to have been built by the hermits from
+Palestine for Our Lady's Girdle turns out to have been an ancient
+tomb, the later legends are by no means destroyed. It is not unlikely
+that St. Benedict, attracted as much by lonely places as St. Francis,
+took possession of the Umbrian tomb, and perhaps little thinking what
+it was, rebuilt and used it as a chapel. Whatever may be the true
+story, it is very certain that the Portiuncula, from earliest times,
+has possessed a strange attraction for all who passed by, each one
+thinking a tiny chapel situated so charmingly in the woods, within
+sight, though not within sound, of the Umbrian towns, to be a perfect
+spot for prayer.
+
+The country people treasure the legend that Madonna Pica often came to
+pray at the Portiuncula, and through the intercession of the Blessed
+Virgin obtained a son after seven years of waiting, and this son of
+prayer and patience was St. Francis of Assisi.
+
+Half ruined and neglected as the chapel was, Francis learned, even as
+quite a child, to love it, and kneeling therein by his mother's side
+would pray with all the fervour of his childish faith. Later in life
+when he had turned from the mad follies of his youth to follow in the
+footsteps of Christ, he remembered the shrine he had loved in
+childhood, and would pass many nights there in prayer and bitter
+meditation upon the Passion. At last touched by the sight of its
+crumbling walls, he set himself the task of repairing them, working so
+busily with stones and mortar that the chapel soon regained its former
+simple beauty. The Benedictines of Mount Subasio, touched by his
+ungrudging labour and piety, arranged with an Assisan priest to
+celebrate mass at the Portiuncula from time to time, and this fact
+drew the young saint there still oftener.
+
+Then followed his time of ministry among the lepers of San Rufino
+d'Arce, when day by day so many disciples came to enlist in this new
+army of working beggars that the little hut in the leper-village could
+no longer hold them, and Francis had to think of some means of housing
+the brethren, and obtaining, what he had often desired, a chapel
+wherein they could say the Hours. (The saint, we may be sure, always
+said his office in the woods.) But evidently he had no particular
+place in his mind, not even his beloved Portiuncula, for he went first
+to his friend Guido, Bishop of Assisi, and then to the canons of San
+Rufino to ask if they could help him. They only answered that they had
+no church to dispose of, and could offer no advice upon the subject.
+Then sorrowfully, like a man begging from door to door, St. Francis
+climbed Mount Subasio to lay his request in piteous terms before the
+benedictine abbot, where he met with more success. Brother Leo tells
+us that the abbot was "moved to pity, and after taking counsel with
+his monks, being inspired by divine grace and will, granted unto the
+Blessed Francis and his brethren the church of St. Mary of the Little
+Portion, as being the smallest and poorest church they possessed. And
+the abbot said to the Blessed Francis, 'Behold Brother, we grant what
+thou desirest. But should the Lord multiply thy brotherhood we will
+that this place shall be the mother-house of thy Order.'"[55]
+
+With a willing heart Francis promised what the abbot asked, and
+further insisted upon paying rent for the Portiuncula, because he
+wished his followers always to bear in mind the point of his rule,
+which he so often dwelt upon, namely, that they owned no property
+whatever, but were only in this world as pilgrims. So every year two
+of his brethren brought to the gate of the benedictine monastery a
+basket full of roach caught in the Chiaggio which flows at no great
+distance from the Portiuncula, and the abbot, smiling at the
+simplicity of Francis, who had imagined yet another device for
+humility, gave back a vessel full of oil in exchange for the gift of
+fish.[56]
+
+With great rejoicing St. Francis set to work building cells of a most
+simple pattern, with walls of wattle and dab, and thatched with straw,
+each brother inscribing his name upon a portion of the mud floor set
+apart for him to rest in. "And no sooner had they come to live here,"
+writes Brother Leo, "than the Lord multiplied their number day by day,
+and the sweet scent of their good name spread marvellously abroad
+throughout all the Spoletan valley, and in many parts of the world."
+
+It was thus that St. Mary of the Little Portion, henceforth to be the
+nucleus of the franciscan order, and a place familiar to pilgrims from
+far and near for many succeeding centuries, came into the keeping of
+St. Francis in the year 1211, about nine months after Innocent III had
+sanctioned his work among the people of Italy.
+
+St. Francis and the brethren had been but a year in their new abode
+when a figure passed in among them for a moment and then was gone,
+leaving, as a vision to haunt them to their dying day, the memory of
+her beauty and soul's purity.
+
+Never in the history of any saint has there been so touching and
+wondrous a scene as when the young Clare left her father's palace in
+Assisi to take the vows of perpetual and voluntary poverty at the
+altar of the Portiuncula. Followed by two trembling women, she passed
+swiftly through the town in the dead of night, across the fields by
+the slumbering village of Valecchio, and through dark woods made more
+sombre by the starry Umbrian sky which at intervals gleamed between
+the wide-spreading branches of the oak trees. The hurrying figure of
+the young girl, swathed in a long mantle, seemed like some spirit
+driven by winds towards an unknown future. One thing alone was clear
+to her, she was nearing the abode of Francis Bernardone whose
+preaching at San Giorgio only a month before had so thrilled her,
+inspiring her in this strange way to seek the life he had described in
+such fiery words. And just as she came in sight of the Portiuncula the
+chanting of the brethren, which had reached her in the wood, suddenly
+ceased, and they came out with lighted torches in expectation of her
+coming. Swiftly and without a word she passed in to attend the
+midnight mass which Francis was to serve.
+
+The ceremony was simple, wherein lies the charm of all things
+franciscan. The service over and the last blessing given, St. Francis
+led Clare towards the altar and with his own hands cut off her long
+fair hair and unclasped the jewels from her neck. But a few minutes
+more and a daughter of the proud house of Scifi stood clothed in the
+brown habit of the order, the black veil of religion falling about her
+shoulders, lovelier far in this nun-like severity than she had been
+when decked out in all her former luxury of silken gowns and precious
+gems.
+
+It was arranged that Clare was to go afterwards to the benedictine
+nuns of San Paolo near Bastia, about an hour's walk further on in the
+plain. So when the final vows had been taken, St. Francis took her by
+the hand and they passed out of the chapel together just as dawn was
+breaking, while the brethren returned to their cells gazing half sadly
+as they passed, at the coils of golden hair and the little heap of
+jewels which still lay upon the altar cloth.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Those early days at the Portiuncula were among the most important of
+Francis' life; dreams which had come to him while he spent long hours
+in the caves and woods near Assisi were to be fully realised, and the
+work he felt inspired to perform was to be carried out in the busy
+villages and cities of Italy and even further afield. All this was now
+very clear to Francis, and more than ever anxious to keep the
+simplicity of his order untouched, he taught his followers, in words
+which fell so gently yet so earnestly from his lips, that they were to
+toil without ceasing, and restlessly and without pause to wander from
+castle to castle, from city to city, in search of those who needed
+help. It may therefore at first seem strange that the "Penitents of
+Assisi" owning nothing but the peace within their hearts, desiring no
+better place for prayer than a cavern in some mountain gorge, should
+establish themselves near a chapel which, if not nominally their own,
+was practically regarded as the property of the Friars Minor. But in
+this again we feel the wisdom and tenderness of the saint for his
+little community. With all the fervour and fire of enthusiasm which
+impelled him like a living force to seek his end, he well knew that
+without some place in which to meet together and rest awhile, his
+followers, who however much imbued with his ardent spirit were but
+mortal men, would very likely fall away from the high ideal he had set
+before them.
+
+Thus the Portiuncula became to the brethren as a nest, where like
+tired birds that long had been upon the wing, they could return after
+much wandering to peaceful thoughts, to prayer and quiet labour.
+
+  [Illustration: THE PORTIUNCULA IN THE TIME OF ST. FRANCIS (FROM THE
+  "COLLIS PARADISI").]
+
+It is not very difficult, with the print from the "Collis
+Paradisi"[57] before us, and the remembrance of the large oaks
+which still mark the ancient Roman roads leading from Assisi to the
+plain, to call up the picture of the strange franciscan hamlet
+clustering round a pent-roofed chapel, and with only trees for a
+convent wall. What a life of peace in the mud huts! what a life of
+turmoil and angry strife raging in the city just in sight!
+
+The spirit of those days, when monachism meant all that was purely
+ideal and beautiful, seems to live again. Then, day and night, each
+brother strove to fit himself for the work he had in view, drawing
+into his soul the peace and love he learned from nature herself as the
+forest leaves rustled above his cell or the nightingales accompanied
+the midnight office with their song. And when his turn came to take up
+the pilgrim's staff and follow the lead of Francis, he went with
+cheerfulness to bring to the people some of that child-like joy and
+lightness of heart which marked the Little Brethren through whatever
+land they wandered as the disciples of St. Francis.
+
+Let us for a moment leave the Umbrian valley for the country near
+Oxford, where on a bitter Christmas Day, two friars were journeying
+upon their first mission to England.
+
+"Going into a neighbouring wood they picked their way along a rugged
+path over the frozen mud and hard snow, whilst blood stained the track
+of their naked feet without their perceiving it. The younger friar
+said to the elder: 'Father, shall I sing and lighten our journey?' and
+on receiving permission he thundered forth a Salve Regina
+misericordiae.... Now, when the hymn was concluded ... he who had been
+the consoler said, with a kind of self congratulation to his
+companion: 'Brother, was not that antiphonal well sung?'"
+
+In this simple story, told us in the chronicle of Lanercost, how true
+rings the franciscan note struck by Francis in those early days at the
+Portiuncula. He was for ever telling the brethren not to show
+sorrowful faces to one another, saying, as recorded by Brother Leo:
+"Let this sadness remain between God and thyself, and pray to Him that
+of His mercy He may forgive thee, and restore to thy soul His healthy
+joyance whereof He deprived thee as a punishment for thy sins."
+
+It is all so long ago, and yet in reading those ancient chronicles the
+big church of the Angeli is for a time forgotten, and only the vision
+of the Portiuncula and the mud huts, with the brethren ever to and fro
+upon the road, remains with us as a strange picture in our modern
+hurried life.
+
+But although the brethren lived so quietly in this retreat of still
+repose, St. Francis, ever watching over the welfare of his flock, was
+careful that prayer and meditation should never be an excuse for
+idleness, which of all vices he most abhorred. Therefore he encouraged
+each friar who in the world had followed some trade, to continue it
+here; so we hear of Beato Egidio, on his return from one of his long
+journeys, seated at the door of his hut busily employed in making rush
+baskets, while Brother Juniper, in those rare moments when he was out
+of mischief, would pass his time in mending sandals with an awl he
+kept up his sleeve for the purpose. Besides these individual
+occupations there was much to attend to even in such humble dwellings
+as those round the Portiuncula. Sometimes there were sick friars to
+nurse, or vegetables had to be planted in the orchard and provisions
+to be obtained, while the office of doorkeeper, as "Angels" came
+perpetually to ask pertinent questions of the brethren, became quite a
+laborious task. When it fell to Brother Masseo to answer the door he
+had little peace. Upon one occasion he went in haste to see who was
+making such a noise and found a "fair youth clothed as though for a
+journey," so he spoke somewhat roughly, and the youth enquired how
+knocking should be done. "Give three knocks," quoth Brother Masseo,
+little dreaming he was instructing an angel in the art of knocking,
+"with a brief space between each knock, then wait until the brother
+has time to say a paternoster and to come unto thee; and if at the end
+of that time he does not come knock once again."
+
+Things went smoothly enough when left to the management of such friars
+as Leo, Masseo or Rufino, but when one day the office of cook fell to
+Juniper, that dear jester of the brotherhood, we get a humorous
+picture of what his companions sometimes had to endure, and of the
+kindness with which they pardoned all shortcomings. The brethren had
+gone out, and Juniper being left alone devised an excellent plan
+whereby the convent might be supplied with food for a fortnight, and
+thus the cook have more time for prayer. "With all diligence," it is
+related in the _Fioretti_, "he went into the village and begged for
+several large cooking-pots, obtained fresh meat and bacon, fowls, eggs
+and herbs, also he begged a quantity of firewood, and placed all these
+upon the fire, to wit, the fowls with their feathers on, the eggs in
+their shells, and the rest in like fashion." When the brethren came
+home, one that was well acquainted with the simplicity of Brother
+Juniper went into the kitchen, and seeing so many and such large pots
+on a great fire, sat down amazed without saying a word, and watched
+with what anxious care Brother Juniper did this cooking. Because of
+the fierceness of the fire he could not well get near to skim the
+pots, so he took a plank and tied it with a rope tight to his body and
+sprang from one pot to the other, so that it was a joy to see him.
+Contemplating all with great delight, this brother went forth from the
+kitchen and finding the other brothers, said: "In sooth I tell you,
+Brother Juniper is making a marriage feast."
+
+Then in hurried Juniper, all red with his exertions and the heat of
+the fire, explaining the excellent plan he had devised; and as he set
+his mess upon the table he praised it, saying: "Now these fowls are
+nourishing to the brain, this stew will refresh the body, it is so
+good"; but the stew remained untasted, for, says the _Fioretti_,
+"there is no pig in the land of Rome so famished that he would eat of
+it."
+
+At the end of any foolish adventure Brother Juniper would always ask
+pardon with such humility that he edified his companions and all the
+people he came in contact with, instead of annoying them with his
+childish pranks. His goodness was manifest, and St. Francis was often
+heard to say to those who wished to reprove him after one of his
+wildest frolics, "would that I had a whole forest of these junipers."
+
+Between the men who lived at the Portiuncula with the saint, and those
+who in later times ruled large convents in the cities, the contrast
+is so great that we would wish to draw still further from these
+inexhaustible chronicles which reveal so charmingly the life of these
+Umbrian friars. But to tell of all the events connected with the
+Portiuncula would mean recounting the history of the whole franciscan
+brotherhood, and we must now pass over many years to that saddest year
+of all, when St. Francis was brought to die in the place he had so
+carefully tended.
+
+  [Illustration: ASSISI FROM THE PLAIN]
+
+Knowing that he had but a few more weeks of life, he begged the
+brethren to find some means to carry him away from the Bishop's Palace
+at Assisi where he had been staying some time. "Verily," he told them
+pathetically, "because of my very infirmity I cannot go afoot"; so
+they carried him in their arms down the hill to the plain, and when
+they came to the hospital of San Salvatore dei Crociferi they laid him
+gently down upon the ground with his face towards Assisi, because he
+desired to bless the town for the last time before he died.
+
+The blind saint, lifting his hand in blessing, pronounced these words
+dear to the hearts of the Assisans to this day: "Blessed be thou of
+the Lord, O city, faithful to God, because through thee many souls
+shall be saved. The servants of the Most High shall dwell in great
+numbers within thy walls, and many of thy sons shall be chosen for the
+realms of heaven."
+
+Then they carried him to the hut nearest the Portiuncula which was the
+infirmary, and here his last days were passed.[58] Although he
+suffered acutely, they were days of marvellous peace and joy. It is
+beautiful to read how, with his usual tenderness, he thought of the
+brethren he was leaving to carry on the work without him, encouraging
+them all as they stood weeping round his bed. Like Isaac of old, the
+Umbrian patriarch blessed his first born, Bernard of Quintavalle,
+saying: "Come my little son that my soul may bless thee before I die,"
+while he enjoined upon all to love and honour Bernard, who had been
+the first to listen to his words now so many years ago. With all his
+sons near him St. Francis dictated his will, wherein he describes the
+way of life they were to lead, and which, coming from him at this
+solemn moment, must always remain as a precious message from the
+saint, in many ways of more importance than the Rule approved in his
+life-time by Pope Honorius. When this was done he commended once again
+to their special care the chapel of the Portiuncula. "I will," he said
+to them, "that for all times it be the mirror and good example of all
+religion, and as it were a lamp ever burning and resplendent before
+the throne of God and before the Blessed Virgin."
+
+The farewells to those of his immediate circle had been made and a
+letter written to St. Clare, and now he wished to bid "the most noble
+Roman matron, Madonna Giacoma dei Settesoli," one of his most devoted
+followers, to come and take leave of him at Assisi. The letter had
+only just been written when knocking at the door and the sound of
+horses trampling was heard outside, and the brethren going out to
+discover the cause of such unwonted noise found that Madonna Giacoma,
+accompanied by her sons, two Roman senators, had been inspired to come
+and visit the dying saint.
+
+The brethren, somewhat averse to allow a woman, even one so renowned
+for holiness as Madonna Giacoma, to enter their sacred precincts,
+called to St. Francis in their doubt: "Father, what shall be done?
+Shall we let her enter and come unto thee?" And the Blessed Francis
+said: "The regulation is to be set aside in respect to this lady whose
+great faith and devotion hath brought her hither from such far-off
+parts." So Madonna Giacoma came into the presence of the Blessed
+Francis weeping bitterly, and she brought with her the shroud-cloth,
+incense, and a great quantity of wax for the candles which were to
+burn before his body after death. She had even thought of some cakes
+made of almonds and sugar, known in Rome by the name of _mostaccioli_,
+which she had often made for him when he visited her. But the saint
+was fast failing, and could eat but little of the cakes.
+
+As the end came nearer his thoughts were drawn away from earth, and
+true to the last to his Lady Poverty, he caused himself to be laid
+naked on the ground as a token of his complete renouncement of the
+world. His face radiant with happiness, he kept asking his companions
+to recite the Canticle of the Sun, often joining in it himself or
+breaking forth into his favourite psalm _Voce mea ad Dominum Clamavi_.
+
+With words of praise and gladness the Blessed Francis of Assisi, the
+spouse of Poverty, died in a mud hut close to the shrine he loved, on
+the 3rd of October of 1226 in the forty-fifth year of his age.
+
+His soul was seen to ascend to heaven under the semblance of a star,
+but brilliant as the sun, upon clouds as white as snow. It was sunset,
+the hour when in Umbria after the stillness of a warm autumn day an
+unusual tremor passes through the land and all things in the valley
+and upon the hill-sides are stirred by it, when a flight of larks
+circled above the roof of the hut where the saint lay at rest. And
+these birds of light and gladness "seemed by their sweet singing to be
+in company with Francis praising the Lord God."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[51] It has sometimes happened that visitors, who have not read their
+Murray with sufficient care, thinking "Le Carceri" are prisons where
+convicts are kept, leave Assisi without visiting this charming spot.
+"Carceri" certainly now means "prisons," but the original meaning of
+the word in old Italian is a place surrounded by a fence and often
+remote from human habitation.
+
+[52] It is perhaps an insult to the Tescio to leave the traveller in
+Umbria under the impression that this mountain torrent is always dry.
+Certainly that is its usual condition, but we have seen it during the
+storms that break upon the land in August and September overflow its
+banks and inundate the country on either side; but with this wealth of
+water its beauty goes.
+
+[53] The large modern church of Rivo-Torto, on the road from Sta.
+Maria degli Angeli to Spello, built to enclose the huts that St.
+Francis and his companions are supposed to have lived in while tending
+the lepers, has been proved without doubt by M. Paul Sabatier to have
+no connection whatever with the Saint. In these few pages we have
+followed the information given in a pamphlet which is to be found in
+the Italian translation of his _Vie de S. Francois d'Assise_. It is
+impossible here to enter into all the arguments relating to this
+disputed point, but I think the authority of the best, and by far the
+most vivid of the biographers of St. Francis can be trusted without
+further comment, and that we may safely believe the hut of St.
+Francis, known as Rivo-Torto, lay close to the present chapels of San
+Rufino d'Arce and Sta. Maria Maddalena. See Appendix for information
+as to their exact position in the plain and the nearest road to them.
+_Disertazione sul primo luogo abitato dai Frati Minori su Rivo-Torto e
+nell'Ospedale dei Lebbrosi di Assisi._ di Paul Sabatier (Roma, Ermanno
+Loescher and Co., 1896).
+
+[54] See _The Transactions of the Royal Irish Academy_, vol. xxvii.
+Nov. 1882.
+
+[55] _Speculum Perfectionis_, cap. lv., edited by Paul Sabatier.
+
+[56] This custom ceased in the fifteenth century; but in the year
+1899, through the piety of the Rev. Father Bernardine Ibald, it was
+revived. Once again the franciscans take a small basket of fish to the
+abbot and his monks who now live at S. Pietro in Assisi, where the
+benedictines went when their mountain retreat was destroyed by order
+of the Assisan despot, Broglia di Trino.
+
+[57] This illustration is from a print to be seen in the somewhat rare
+edition of the _Collis Paradisi Amoenitas, seu Sacri Conventus
+Assisiensis Historiae_, published in 1704 at Montefalco by Padre
+Angeli, and it may even have been taken from an earlier drawing. In it
+there is the true feeling of a franciscan convent, such as the saint
+hoped would continue for all time, and though there are some points
+which are incorrect (the Church of Sta. Chiara, though curiously
+enough not the convent, is represented, which was built several years
+later than San Francesco), we get a clear idea of both Assisi and its
+immediate neighbourhood. All the ancient gates of the town can be made
+out, the Roman road from Porta Mojano to San Rufino d'Arce, a faint
+indication of the path to the Carceri, and also the old road from
+Assisi to the plain out of the gate of S. Giacomo, passing not very
+far from the Ponte S. Vittorino. The wall round the Portiuncula and
+the huts did not exist in the time of St. Francis, which, together
+with the wooden gate, may have been added by Brother Elias. The
+largest hut a little to the right of the chapel was the infirmary
+where St. Francis died (now called the Chapel of St. Francis), and the
+one behind it was his cell (now known as the Chapel of the Roses, see
+chapter xi. for its story), whence he could easily pass out through
+the woods to San Rufino d'Arce hard by.
+
+[58] For fuller account see _The Mirror of Perfection_, translated by
+Sebastian Evans, caps. 107, 108, 112, and _The Little Flowers of St.
+Francis_, translated by J. W. Arnold (Temple Classics), chap. vi.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+_The building of the Basilica and Convent of San Francesco. The Story
+of Brother Elias_
+
+   "O brother mine, O beautiful brother, O brother of love, build me
+   a castle which shall have neither stone nor iron. O beautiful
+   brother, build me a city which shall have neither wood nor
+   stone."--BEATO EGIDIO.
+
+
+One of the strangest characteristics of mediaeval Italy was the rivalry
+between different towns to gain possession of the bodies of holy
+people. They did not even wait for the bull of canonisation to arrive
+from Rome, but often of their own accord placed the favoured being in
+the Calendar of Saints, and papal decrees merely ratified the choice
+of popular devotion. We have an example of this with the Perugians.
+Ever on the alert to increase the glory of their city, they hovered
+near the road St. Francis was to follow during his last illness when
+borne from Cortona to Assisi, meaning to carry him off by force so
+that he might die in Perugia.[59] Never at a loss for a way out of any
+difficulty Elias hastily changed the itinerary for the journey, and
+instead of the short way by lake Thrasymene he took the much longer
+and more difficult road by Gualdo and Nocera, far back in the
+mountains to the north of Assisi. He warned the Assisans of the peril
+run by the little company of friars with their sick father, and
+soldiers were immediately sent to escort them safely to the Bishop's
+Palace where St. Francis stayed until carried to the Portiuncula when
+he knew that he was dying.
+
+They were sad days at Assisi when St. Francis was borne through the
+city blind and ill; and as he stretched out his hands to bless the
+people they bowed their heads and wept at the sight of so much
+suffering. Now that the end had come and they knew he lay safely in
+the little shrine of the Portiuncula, their mourning was changed into
+rejoicing, and as though they were preparing for a great festival,
+strange sounds of busy talk, of laughter and of singing were heard in
+the streets. Had a stranger found himself at Assisi that Sunday
+morning he might well have asked: "What victory have you gained to
+merit all this show of gladness, or what emperor are you going forth
+to greet?" And the answer would have been: "Francis, our saint, the
+son of Bernardone, returned to us when he was nigh to death, and now
+that he is dead we possess his body which will bring great honour and
+fame to our city by reason of the many miracles to be wrought at his
+tomb."
+
+The sun had not yet risen when the Assisans left their houses and
+thronged down the hill to the Portiuncula to bring the precious burden
+to rest within the more certain refuge of their walled town. "Blessed
+and praised be the Lord our God who has entrusted to us, though
+unworthy, so great a gift. Praise and glory to the ineffable Trinity,"
+they sang as they hurried along in the cold dawn. Trumpeters blew loud
+and discordant notes, nearly drowning the voices of the priests who
+vainly in the din tried to intone the canticles and psalms. The nobles
+came from their castles with lighted torches to join the procession,
+the peasants from the hills brought sprigs of olive, and those from
+the forests stripped the oaks of their finest branches which they
+waved above their heads, while children strewed the ground with
+flowers.
+
+Amidst all this stirring show of joy a kindly thought had been taken
+of St. Clare and her nuns, so that when the body of St. Francis had
+been laid in a coffin, and the long line of friars, priests and
+townsmen turned to climb the hill, they took a path skirting just
+below the town, through the vineyards and olive groves, to the convent
+of San Damiano. The sound of chanting must have warned the watchers of
+their approach long before they came in sight. An artist has pictured
+the nuns like a flock of timid sheep in his fresco, trooping out of an
+exquisitely marbled chapel, with St. Clare endeavouring to suppress
+her grief as she bends over the dead Francis, while the sisters press
+close behind her. This is how it ought to have been; but, alas, only
+an iron lattice, through which the nuns were wont to receive the Holy
+Communion, was opened for them, and the friars lifting the body of St.
+Francis from the coffin, held it in their arms at the opening as one
+by one the nuns came to kiss the pierced hands. "Madonna Chiara's"
+tears fell fast as she gazed on him who had brought such joy into her
+cloistered solitude. "Oh father, father," she murmured, "what are we
+to do now that thou hast abandoned us unhappy ones? With thee departs
+all consolation, for buried here away from the world there is none to
+console us." Restraining the lamentations which filled her heart she
+passed like a shadow out of sight to her cell, and when all the
+sisters had bidden farewell to St. Francis, the small window was
+closed "never again to open upon so sad a scene."
+
+The people, who until now had wept bitterly, began to sing again as
+the procession went on its way up the hill towards the Porta Mojano.
+The trumpets sounded louder than ever, and "with jubilation and great
+exultation" the sacred body was brought to the church of San Giorgio,
+where it was carefully laid in a marble urn covered with an iron
+grating, and guarded day and night from the prying eyes of the
+Perugians. If Francis had worked miracles during his life, those
+chronicled at his tomb are even more marvellous; in recounting some
+which read like fairy tales, a biographer recounts with pride that,
+"even from heaven, the Saint showed his courtesy to all."
+
+Devotion to St. Francis was not confined to Umbria or even to Italy,
+for we read how his fame spread throughout France, and how the King
+and Queen with all the barons of the land, came to Paris to kiss one
+of his relics. "People journeyed from the east and from the west,"
+enthusiastically exclaims Celano with a total disregard of detail,
+"they came from the north and from the south, even the learned and the
+lettered who abounded in Paris at that time."
+
+But while France was being stirred by the news of perpetual miracles
+and prodigies wrought through the intercession of the saint, and
+Assisi in consequence was fast growing into a place of great
+importance in the world, Pope Gregory IX, who had been lately elected
+upon the death of Honorius III, spent many hours in the Cannonica at
+Perugia wrestling with his doubts concerning the truth of the greatest
+miracle of all, the miracle of the Stigmata. While in this state of
+uncertainty and perplexity St. Francis, the _Fioretti_ relates,
+appeared to him one night, and showed him the five wounds inflicted by
+the Seraph upon his hands, feet and side. The vision, it seems,
+dispelled all doubt from the mind of Pope Gregory, for in conclave
+with the cardinals he proclaimed the sanctity of his friend, the
+Poverello d'Assisi, and determined to set the final seal of the church
+upon his miracles and fame.
+
+This vision was the prelude of a great ceremony held a few days later
+in San Giorgio for the canonisation of Francis, at which all Umbria
+seems to have been present. Pope Gregory, clothed in vestments of
+cloth of gold embroidered with precious stones, his tiara "almost as
+an aureole of sanctity about his head," sat stiffly on his pontifical
+throne like some carved image, surrounded by cardinals in crimson
+garments and bishops in white stoles. All eyes were fixed upon this
+splendid group, and it is not improbable that among the spectators
+stood Pietro Bernardone and Madonna Pica, and many who had reviled
+Francis in his early days of sanctity, and now, within two years of
+his death, witnessed him placed among the greatest of the saints.
+Gregory had prepared an eloquent address, which he delivered in a
+sonorous voice occasionally broken by sobs of emotion. Becoming more
+and more enthusiastic as he proceeded, he compared Francis to a full
+moon, a refulgent sun, a star rising above the morning mists, and when
+he had finished the pious homily, a sub-deacon read out a list of the
+saint's miracles, and a learned cardinal, "not without copious
+weeping," discoursed thereon, while the Pope listened, shedding
+"rivers of tears," and breaking forth every now and then into
+deep-drawn sighs. The prelates wept so devoutly that their vestments
+were in great part wet, and the ground was drenched with their tears.
+The ceremony ended when the Pope rose to bless the people, and intoned
+the _Te Deum_, in which all joined with such good will that the "earth
+resounded in great jubilee."
+
+Had St. Francis foreseen how his humility would be rewarded? This we
+know, that he in part had realised how his order would slip away from
+his ideal, and there is a deep note of sadness in many pages of his
+life, showing us how fully he realised the pitfalls his disciples were
+likely to fall into when he was no longer there to watch over them
+with tender care. Often while he was absent for only a little time the
+brethren forgot his simple rule, building cells and houses too
+spacious and pretentious for the home of the Lady Poverty. This had
+been one of the signs to him that his earnest prayers to God, his
+example and admonitions to his followers, which come to us through his
+letters and the pages of Brother Leo like the cry of one who bravely
+fought against the inevitable, were all to be in vain. It is a tragic
+story, and rendered still more so by the fact that the Saint's last
+years should have been saddened by this knowledge of coming events.
+
+Only a little while and the teaching of poverty and obscurity which he
+had so deeply implanted in the hearts of his followers was to be
+completely swept away; upon the ruins of that first franciscan order,
+guarded jealously for a time by a faithful few, arose the new
+franciscan spirit which Elias Buonbarone, inspired by the will of
+Gregory IX, brought into being almost before the echo of his master's
+words had died away. It is not for us in this small space to trace
+the many changes that crept into the young community, but we simply
+note as a fact, what to some may appear exaggerated, that the order
+St. Francis founded, and prayed would continue as he left it, ceased
+at his death, while the order that grew up afterwards bore the
+unmistakable stamp of Elias and the Vatican.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The extraordinary humility of St. Francis gave rise to the myth that
+when he lay dying at the Portiuncula he expressed a strong desire to
+be buried in the most despised spot near Assisi, which, because
+criminals were said to have been executed there, bore the name of
+Colle del Inferno. It seems unlike him to have been concerned with
+what might become of "brother body" after death, and it was probably
+not until Gregory IX conceived the idea of building a church in honour
+of his friend, that a suitable burial-place was searched for near the
+walls of the town, if not actually within them, where the citizens
+could safely guard the precious relics. Everything favoured the
+designs of Gregory, for not only was he fortunate in finding a man
+like Elias, capable, prompt and energetic, but the one place suited
+for the erection of a great church, happened to be in the possession
+of a generous citizen of Assisi. No sooner were the wishes of the
+Pontiff made known than Simon Puzzarelli offered his land on the
+Collis Inferni, which from this time forward Gregory ordered to be
+called Collis Paradisi, the Hill of Paradise.[60]
+
+A document, duly sealed and signed, is still in the Assisan archives,
+in which we read how the site for the building of "an oratory or
+church for the most holy body of St. Francis" was given over, in words
+that admitted of no withdrawal, to Elias as representative of the Lord
+Pope Gregory IX--"dedit, tradedit, cesset, delegavit et donavit
+simpliciter et irrevocabiliter." Now the use of the word _oratory_ is
+a remarkable fact as suggesting that at the beginning the Assisans
+little dreamed of the erection of a great basilica which would cast
+their cathedral entirely into the shade.
+
+A few days after the ceremony of the canonisation of St. Francis, Pope
+Gregory, amid the usual crowd of Umbrian spectators, laid the
+foundation-stone of the franciscan basilica. Then being recalled by
+his Roman subjects, whom Assisan chroniclers describe as "a race of
+men most seditious and fierce," he was obliged to hurry south, leaving
+Elias to carry out his wishes as he thought best.
+
+So far the task left to Elias was easy enough, for money was not
+lacking, and countless workmen were ready to begin the great
+enterprise; but the question of who should design a church upon the
+site chosen was a more difficult matter to settle, as Vasari tells us:
+"There was a great scarcity of good architects at this time, and the
+church, having to be built upon a very high hill, at the base of which
+flows a torrent called the Tescio, an excellent artist was required
+for the work. After much deliberation a certain Maestro Jacopo Tedesco
+was called to Assisi as being the best architect then to be found, and
+having examined the site, and consulted the wishes of the fathers, who
+were holding a Chapter in Assisi to discuss the matter, he designed
+the plan of a very beautiful church and convent."[61]
+
+"Jacopo" is said to have come to Italy in the retinue of the Emperor
+Frederick II. Vasari recounts that the fame he gained all over Italy
+by his work at Assisi was so great that the Florentines summoned him
+to build them bridges and palaces, and "Jacopo," charmed with the
+Tuscan city, married and dwelt there. The citizens, following a custom
+which still continues in every Italian town, changed his name to Lapo,
+and he is revealed to us as father of the famous Arnolfo di Lapo,
+architect of the Florentine cathedral and of the Palazzo della
+Signoria. In the seductive pages of Vasari the account reads so
+pleasantly that it seems a pity later writers should have discovered
+that the story rests upon uncertain dates and legends. Vasari's
+endeavour to amalgamate three artists into one person, have forced
+many to the opposite extreme, until even the existence of "Jacopo
+Tedesco" is denied, and they are reduced to speak of _an_ architect
+who designed the church and convent of San Francesco.[62]
+
+Such is the irony of fate, that while numerous documents remain giving
+the names of contractors and minor masons employed in the building
+there is absolutely no evidence or clue of any kind as to the
+architect employed by Elias. We can only suppose that the document
+relating to this and other interesting points in connection with the
+decoration of the church, must have been destroyed by the Perugians
+when they sacked Assisi under Jacopo Piccinino and burnt so many
+treasures in the archives. We are consequently at the mercy of local
+legends, which were no doubt recounted to Vasari by the Assisans
+themselves when he visited the town in the middle of the sixteenth
+century. But there is still the evidence of our own eye to help us to
+know something of the builder of San Francesco, the builder of the
+first Gothic church in Italy. We are told he was a German; but then we
+know from Mr Fergusson's Handbook of Architecture that Germans were
+only just awakening to the Gothic influences at the time of St.
+Francis's death, and, when they wished to build churches in the new
+style they called in French masons to help them. Was it therefore
+likely that Germany should have given the mysterious architect to
+Assisi? A church recalling the Assisan Basilica may be vainly searched
+for in Germany or in Lombardy and this further fact inclines us to
+believe in the theory of M. Edouard Corroyer.
+
+  [Illustration: CHURCH AND CONVENT OF SAN FRANCESCO]
+
+Whether the man who conceived the original idea of raising one church
+above another flanked by a colonnaded convent on the spur of a great
+mountain was called Philip or James, or whether he came from a Lombard
+or a German province seems of small importance compared with the
+country where he learned his art. Even supposing "Jacopo" to have been
+a northern Italian from the home of the Comacine Guild of master
+masons, which is extremely likely, everything goes to prove that he
+must have drawn his inspiration for the Assisan Basilica straight
+from the south of France. What establishes the French parentage of
+San Francesco is the mode of construction, especially visible in the
+Upper Church, and which, as M. Corroyer says, "possesses all the
+characteristics peculiar to the French architecture in the south of
+France at the close of the thirteenth and the beginning of the
+fourteenth century, of which the Cathedral of Albi [in Aquitaine] is
+the most perfect type. The single nave, its buttresses projecting
+externally in the form of half turrets, add to the likeness of the
+Italian church of Assisi with that of Albi in France."[63] A glance at
+the illustrations of the two churches will bear this theory out better
+than many words; and it will be seen at once that had the half turrets
+between the bay windows of San Francesco been completed with pointed
+roofs and small lancet windows, as no doubt was the intention, the
+likeness would be even more striking.
+
+Although "Jacopo" left a very substantial mark of his genius upon the
+Umbrian hill-side, he came and went like a shadow, leaving his designs
+and plans to be carried on by his young disciple Fra Filippo Campello,
+whom we shall meet with again in the chapter on Santa Chiara. Little,
+therefore, as we know of this earlier portion of its history, San
+Francesco at least remains to us in all its first prime and glory to
+tell its own tale, and endless should be the hymn of praise sung by
+the Assisans for the chance which brought so beautiful a creation
+within their walls.
+
+It seems indeed strange that a style so new and so admired, was not
+more faithfully adhered to at a time when cathedrals and churches were
+being erected in every Italian city. Perhaps the Romanesque and
+Byzantine influences from the south so tempered the Gothic tendencies
+of Lombard architects, that they were unable to attain the true ideal,
+and succeeded only in creating a style of their own, to be found at
+Florence, Siena and Orvieto, known as Italian Gothic. Thus it happens
+that the Assisans are the proud possessors, not only of the first
+Gothic church built in Italy during the dawn of the new era, but of a
+church which is unique, as recalling less dimly than those of other
+cities the splendour of the northern cathedrals.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The rapidity with which the Assisan Basilica progressed is one of the
+most wonderful results of the love inspired by St. Francis among
+mediaeval Christians. The generosity of the Catholic world was so
+stirred that donations poured in without ceasing from Germany and
+France, and even from Jerusalem and Morocco. "Cardinals, bishops,
+dukes, princes, counts and barons," write the chroniclers, helped
+Elias in his work, while the people of Umbria, too poor to give money,
+came in numbers, out of the reverence they bore the Saint, to work for
+small and often for no wages. It was a busy time; and Assisi awoke to
+a sense of her importance. Under the vigilant eye of Elias, armies of
+masons and labourers worked as unremittingly as ants at a nest, while
+processions of carts drawn by white oxen, went ever to and fro upon
+the road leading to the quarries, bringing creamy-white, rose and
+golden-coloured blocks of Subasian stone.
+
+This universal enthusiasm enabled Elias to complete the Lower Church
+in twenty-two months, while the Upper Church was roofed in six years
+later, and finished in all essential details by 1253. But while Elias
+was applauded by most people, a few of the franciscans, headed by Fra
+Leo, still clung to the letter of the franciscan rule, and bitterly
+disapproved of these innovations. They sorrowfully looked on at the
+army of workers, raising, as if by magic, walls and colonnades upon
+the hill-side and towers ever higher against the sky. They watched
+blocks of marble and stone being chiselled into cornices, friezes and
+capitals ornamented with foliage and flowers, until, with despair in
+their hearts, they slowly returned to their mud huts in the plain. The
+dreams of Francis were vanishing fast as the allegiance to the Lady
+Poverty diminished. Now her shrine existed only in the Carceri, in San
+Damiano and in the Portiuncula, where few sought her company, for all
+eyes were turned towards the new Basilica. The words of the Master,
+recorded faithfully in Leo's biography, were ever ringing in his ears:
+"Set a good hedge round in lieu of a wall, as a sign of holy poverty
+and humility ... build poor little cells of mud and wood, and other
+cells where at times the brethren may pray and work to the gain of
+virtue and the avoidance of sloth. Also cause small churches to be
+built; they ought not to raise great churches for the sake of
+preaching to the people, or for any other reason, for they will show
+greater humility and give a better example by going to preach in other
+churches. And if by chance prelates, clerics, religious or seculars
+should come to these abodes, the poor houses, the little cells and
+small churches will be better sermons and cause greater edification to
+them than many words."[64]
+
+No wonder that Leo and his friends watched Elias at his work with no
+friendly eye, for between the mud huts which Francis had planned with
+so much simplicity, and the massive Basilica and palatial convent,
+stretched an infinite chasm, separating the old order from the new.
+
+They were still more unhappy and scandalised when Elias, who had the
+full permission of Gregory IX. for this innovation, placed a marble
+vase outside San Francesco to receive the contributions of those
+anxious to see the church quickly finished. A curious account is given
+by a latin chronicler of the warfare which ensued between the
+standard-bearers of the new and the old franciscan spirit: "Some
+brothers of marvellous sanctity and purity went to Perugia to consult
+Brother Egidio, a good and pious man, concerning the erection of so
+large a building and the manner of collecting money, which seemed to
+be expressly against the rule. And Brother Egidio answered them: "If
+that building were to reach from Assisi to here [to Perugia] a little
+corner would suffice for me to dwell in." And they having asked him
+what he thought about the vase, he said, turning to Brother Leo: "If
+thou considerest thyself already dead [to the world and its
+persecutions] go and break it. But if thou livest, stay thy hand, for
+perchance thou mayest not be able to bear the persecution of that
+Brother Elias."[65] Hearing this, Brother Leo went with his companions
+and broke the vase to pieces. Then Brother Elias, hearing this, had
+them severely beaten by his servants, and drove them from Assisi in
+great confusion. For this reason a great tumult arose among the
+brethren. Because of these aforesaid excesses, and because Brother
+Elias threatened the complete destruction of the rule, when the
+brethren met in general Chapter they deprived him of the office of
+Vicar General, and unanimously elected Brother John of Florence
+[Giovanni Parenti]."[66]
+
+But these murmurs were drowned in the din of public applause which
+enabled Elias to work in his own way, unscrupulously dispersing every
+difficulty without any reference to the rule of St. Francis.
+
+He continued to be the presiding spirit at Assisi, and such was the
+success of his untiring energy that by the month of May 1230, the
+Lower Church of the Basilica was ready to receive the "most sacred
+body" of the Saint, while the magnificent quarters in the adjoining
+convent were ready for those friars who belonged to the moderate
+party, and approved of the new order of things.
+
+Pope Gregory was unable to visit Assisi at this time owing to
+difficulties with his unruly Roman subjects, but he sent innumerable
+indulgences, golden crosses studded with precious stones containing
+relics of the true cross, vases of silver and gold, and a large sum of
+money for the further advancement of the building. These generous
+gifts were followed by a Brief, which in calmer moments the monks
+might have viewed with irritation, declaring both Basilica and convent
+to be immediately subject to the Holy See. The franciscan order was
+fast becoming a Papal institution, to be patronised and ruled by
+succeeding Pontiffs.
+
+While Giovanni Parenti was preparing for the Conclave to be held in
+the spacious rooms of the new convent, the wily Elias was holding
+secret councils with the magistrates of the town as to ensuring the
+safe conduct of the body of St. Francis to the Basilica. The number of
+people continually arriving in anticipation of the coming ceremony
+made them somewhat uneasy, and their doubts were carefully discussed
+in the Communal Palace. They came to the conclusion that if the exact
+place of the saint's sepulchre was known, there would always be the
+danger of its being rifled by the citizens of neighbouring towns,
+especially by the Perugians, whose partiality for relics was well
+known. So a stratagem, most likely invented by the fertile brain of
+Elias, was decided upon and succeeded admirably.
+
+The friars and citizens, unconscious of the plot hatched in their
+midst, were all eager for the day of the Translation. The Umbrians
+left their towns empty to assist at the great spectacle, and their
+number was so great, that, failing to find room within the walls of
+Assisi, they wandered like droves of cattle on the hills above trying
+to obtain a sight of the procession. It was a great day in the annals
+of Assisi; outside the little church of San Giorgio a triumphal car,
+drawn by a pair of magnificent oxen, their whiteness almost hidden
+beneath purple draperies and their horns wreathed and garlanded with
+flowers, stood waiting for the holy burden. Three Papal Legates and
+Elias placed the heavy sarcophagus with their own hands upon the car,
+covering it over with a piece of rich brocaded silk sent for the
+occasion by the mother of King Louis of France. They kept close to the
+car all the time, while the brethren, holding palms and torches,
+formed a long procession followed by the bishops and their clergy, and
+the Podesta with his retinue of crimson-robed priors. It was the month
+of May, and from every garden and terrace the nobles and their ladies
+showered flowers over the "sacred ark" as it was borne slowly up the
+street amidst the deafening sound of trumpets and the cheers of the
+populace. All that could be done to honour St. Francis had been
+thought of; Gregory IX. had even composed a hymn to be sung on that
+day in which the "Poverello" was compared to Christ. They were in the
+midst of the hymn of praise and quite close to the new Basilica when
+the heavy tramp of numerous armed men was suddenly heard; swiftly a
+passage was made through the crowd, who for the moment fell back
+amazed and powerless, while the soldiers hurried with the sarcophagus
+into the church, closely followed by Elias, who promptly shut and
+barred the door. After the first moment of surprise, a wild burst of
+indignation arose from the thousands who were thus deprived of a
+spectacle which they had come miles to see. They howled like wild
+beasts baulked of their prey, banging at the doors of the church in
+their fury; but silence reigned within, for Elias and his accomplices
+were stealthily engaged in hiding the body of St. Francis in the very
+bowels of the mountain, where for five centuries it remained unseen
+and undisturbed.
+
+Till far into the night the people continued to murmur; the bewildered
+friars asked each other what this strange behaviour of Elias meant,
+and the only people who preserved any appearance of calmness were
+Messer il Podesta of Assisi and his priors, who smiled to see how well
+the plot had worked. It was not long before the scandal reached the
+ears of Pope Gregory. The enemies of Elias painted the story in
+glowing colours, and the Pope expressed himself greatly shocked at
+sacrilegious hands having been laid upon the holy body of the saint.
+He blamed the magistrates for allowing such a tumult to arise, and
+called upon them to give due explanation of their conduct within a
+fortnight at the court of Rome under pain of their city being laid
+under an interdict. The Pope's Brief caused consternation, and his
+accusations of their ingratitude for past favour rankled deeply. We
+are not told how the anger of the Pope was pacified, but no doubt both
+Elias and the Podesta explained satisfactorily the reasons for so
+strange a burial, as Assisi continued to enjoy the patronage of the
+Holy See. The efforts of Elias to ensure the safety of the body of St.
+Francis had been eminently successful, and Gregory could hardly fail
+to pardon the unusual manner in which this had been obtained.
+
+Out of the mysterious events of that day of tumult grew a legend which
+lasted until the body of St. Francis was finally discovered five
+centuries later. It was believed that a church far surpassing the
+other two in grandeur and beauty had been built beneath them by Elias,
+and that St. Francis risen from his tomb stood in the midst, his hands
+crossed upon his breast, his head thrown back, gazing eternally
+towards the sky. The Umbrians, refusing to believe that their saint
+could suffer the common lot of mortals, loved to think of him as
+"almost alive," waiting for the last call, surrounded by the glorious
+beauty of a hidden church which they had never seen and only dimly
+pictured to themselves. Vasari refers to this "invisible church"
+described to him by the awe-struck citizens, when he mentions that
+"the tomb containing the body of the glorious saint is in the lowest
+church where no one enters, and whose doors are walled up"; and in the
+beginning of his description of the Basilica, he speaks of three
+ranges of buildings placed one above the other, the lowest of all
+being subterranean, which is curious as showing how closely he
+followed tradition regarding the Assisan church. Padre Angeli so
+unhesitatingly accepted the story that in his "Collis Paradisi" he
+drew from imagination a plan, together with a picture of the
+"invisible church." It represents a long vaulted hall somewhat
+recalling the architecture of the Upper Church, at the end of which is
+St. Francis standing upon his tomb in a recess corresponding to a kind
+of choir; the vaulted roof is supported by slender columns with
+chiselled capitals, and the walls and floor are ornamented with
+marbles and mosaic of different colours.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+To close this chapter without touching upon the career of Elias, who
+is at once the black sheep of the franciscan order and one of the
+greatest citizens of Assisi, would be impossible. Few have written
+calmly about him, trying either to exculpate him or blaming his
+actions too severely, so that it is difficult to obtain any just idea
+of the real motives which guided him in an ill-starred life. Elias was
+neither devil nor saint, though he possessed the energy of both and
+his marked and domineering character would have fitted him better for
+the world than for the cloister. Ambition seems to have been his chief
+fault, together with a certain proud reserve which kept him aloof from
+his companions. From the various references to him in the early
+biographies of St. Francis we feel the writers failed ever to come
+quite in touch with one so outside their lives, and whom they
+considered as a kind of Judas--for did he not betray the interests of
+the Master?
+
+"Elias is an altogether different type of man from the simple-minded
+Francis," writes Mrs Oliphant, echoing the general opinion. "He is an
+ambitious and ascetic churchman, of the class which has pushed Rome
+into much power and many abuses--an almost conventional development of
+the intellectual monk, making up for compulsory humbleness in external
+matters by the highest strain of ecclesiastical ambition and spiritual
+pride."
+
+But while all abused him, none doubted his very exceptional talents,
+and even in the _Fioretti_ he was accounted "one of the most learned
+men in the world," and St. Francis showed the great confidence he had
+in him by naming him Vicar-General after the death of Peter Cataneo.
+It was at a Chapter held in the wood by the Portiuncula that the saint
+expressed his desire to again resign the government of the order to
+another, and while Elias discoursed to the assembled friars St.
+Francis sat at his feet listening attentively to every word.[67] On
+the other hand, the saint was quite aware of his faults, and from the
+_Fioretti_, where Elias is pictured for artistic effect in strong
+colours as the wicked friar, we seem to realize the strain that often
+must have come between these two very different men. Thus we read that
+it being revealed to St. Francis that Elias was destined to lose his
+soul and bring dishonour on the order, he conceived such an antipathy
+towards him that he would even avoid meeting him, although at the time
+they were living in the same convent. The scene when Elias,
+discovering the reason of his displeasure, threw himself at the feet
+of the saint to implore his intercession with heaven reveals in the
+most touching way the great belief and reverence inspired by St.
+Francis in the heart of the least docile of his followers. "I have so
+great a faith in thy prayers," said Elias, "that were I in the midst
+of hell, and thou wert to pray to God for me, I should feel some
+relief; therefore again I pray thee to commend me, a sinner, unto God
+who came to save sinners that He may receive me into His mercy." And
+this did Brother Elias say with much devotion and many tears, so that
+St. Francis, like a pitying father, promised to pray to God for him.
+It will be seen how far the revelation of St. Francis came true, and
+the manner in which his prayer was answered.
+
+So long as Elias remained under the influence of Francis his pride was
+tempered, and his ambition curbed, but when cast upon his own
+resources he gave full rein to the ideas which had no doubt been
+forming in his mind for some years past. Elias thought the franciscan
+order, if faithful to the Lady Poverty, would prove of small
+importance; and he therefore willingly leagued with Gregory IX. to
+mould it so that it should become a visible power upon the earth. The
+vision he conjured up with the sceptre in his own hand was very fair;
+and he failed to see why religion should not be served quite as well
+within the massive convent walls he had helped to rear, as when
+dwelling in a mud hut. He had too broad a mind to look closely to the
+detail of his rule; he only saw the broad outline of his master's
+teaching; and who can say whether after all he was not right? This we
+know, the mud huts have long since vanished, while thousands come each
+year to pray at the tomb of Francis within sight of Giotto's
+master-pieces. They sing aloud his praises, and as they pray and sing
+throw coppers and silver in heaps upon the altar steps, and pass out
+of the church into the sunlight again, knowing little of the lessons
+St. Francis spent his life in teaching.
+
+But we must return again to Elias and his many troubles with the
+franciscan world. While patronized by Pope Gregory, he also seems to
+have had a strong party of monks on his side, probably those who had
+joined the Order during the last few years. Their names have not come
+down to us, and their personalities have merged in that of Elias who
+thus led them forward on a somewhat perilous way. They began by
+attempting to depose Giovanni Parenti while he was holding a Chapter
+in the new convent, a few days after the ceremony of the Translation
+of the body of St. Francis to the Basilica. His friars were gathered
+round him discussing the various missions to be undertaken, and the
+work that had been done during the past year, when the door was thrown
+open and a crowd of excited friars with Elias at their head appeared
+upon the threshold. Before anyone could realize what this strange
+apparition meant, Elias was borne rapidly along by his companions and
+installed in the seat of Giovanni Parenti, while a scene of
+indescribable tumult arose among those whose indignation had not yet
+cooled down after the events of the past week. It is said that St.
+Anthony of Padua was present at this conclave, and vainly tried to
+calm the excitement, but his voice was drowned in the clamour. At
+last, driven to despair, Giovanni Parenti began to cry aloud and tear
+his garments as one distraught; he could not have hit upon a better
+plan, for where words had failed this piece of dramatic acting
+produced an instantaneous effect. His friars formed a vanguard round
+him, acclaiming him Vicar-General as they beat back the intruders with
+hard blows and angry scowls. Elias, seeing the game was lost, threw
+himself on the ground, and with expressions of deep contrition
+implored forgiveness. He was pardoned, but banished to a distant
+hermitage, where humbled and sad he pondered for many months upon his
+next move. He allowed his hair and beard to grow to such a length that
+even his enemies began to believe his repentance was sincere, and only
+two years after his misconduct we find him elected Vicar-General in
+the place of his former rival, and, under the title of Guardian and
+Master of the Basilica and Convent, in full command of the works at
+San Francesco.
+
+He now enjoyed a season of peace and plenty in the comfortable
+quarters of the franciscan convent, and is said to have gathered a
+household about him surpassing the splendour of a cardinal's court.
+Fra Illuminato di Rieti (afterwards Bishop of Assisi) acted as his
+secretary, writing numberless letters to "the Pope and the Princes of
+the World," for Elias was in correspondence with more than one crowned
+head and paid many visits to distant courts in quest of money for the
+Assisan Church. On these journeys he always went on horseback, and
+even when going from one church to another in Umbria, he was well
+mounted on a "fat and stout palfrey," to the intense scandal of some
+of the friars. "He also had secular servants," writes an indignant
+chronicler, "all dressed in divers colours like to those of bishops,
+who ministered to him in all things." His food was always good, and he
+had the reputation of keeping an excellent cook.
+
+This peaceful and successful period of his life was of short duration,
+for he soon fell into dire trouble and disgrace. It was his misfortune
+to be sent by Pope Gregory, who trusted implicitly in his discretion
+and ability, on a mission to Frederic II, in the hopes of bringing the
+Emperor to a sense of his misdoings. A disciple of St. Francis seemed
+to be the right person to send as an emissary of peace; but instead of
+the orthodox humble and barefooted friar, we read of him as a very
+haughty personage, quite at his ease in the political world, then
+ringing with the angry cries of Guelph and Ghibelline.
+
+No sooner had Elias reached the franciscan convent at Parma than the
+magnates of the city, aware of the errand he had come upon, assembled
+to do him honour. Fra Salimbene, who was present at the interview,
+describes how Elias waited for his visitors, his head swathed in an
+Armenian turban, and comfortably seated upon a soft chair drawn close
+to a huge fire. When Gherardo da Correggio, known as "Messer il
+Podesta of the big teeth," entered the room, Elias remained seated,
+and to the astonishment of all in no way disturbed himself for his
+illustrious guest. The Podesta very sensibly took no offence, but
+passed the matter over by expressing his wonder that the Vicar-General
+should have chosen so cold a season for his visit to Lombardy--a
+glance at the fire had told him that this franciscan friar liked
+comfort as much as most people.
+
+There is no detailed account of the interview of Elias with the
+Emperor to inform us whether he behaved at it with the same easy
+familiarity; all we know is that Frederic, "the wonder of the world,"
+and Elias, the Assisan friar, formed a friendship which lasted during
+the remainder of their lives, linking them together in a common fate.
+Whether Elias was won over from the first by the charm of so
+fascinating a personality, or simply baffled by a mind more subtle
+than his own, it is difficult to say, as the chroniclers have drawn
+too thick a veil over this unfortunate meeting for anyone to judge
+with fairness. His failure certainly gave a good opportunity to his
+many enemies to commence a very satisfactory scheme of blackening his
+character with the Pope; and the rumour flew to Rome that he was a
+traitor to his church. Branded with the abhorred name of Ghibelline
+there was now little hope for Elias, whose friendship with the
+arch-enemy of Holy Church grew always stronger. The Lombards becoming
+uneasy, accused Gregory of favouring the Emperor, while the latter
+bitterly complained that the Pope listened too much to the cause of
+the Lombards, and thought too little of the imperial dignity. At last
+a Chapter was called to enquire into the conduct of the Vicar-General,
+and as he was not present, his misdeeds lost nothing by the telling.
+Although Elias was deposed, and his place filled by a Pisan, he still
+held the title of Guardian and Master of the Assisan Basilica, but in
+a city of such strong Guelph sympathies as Assisi, it was unlikely he
+would be left in peace, especially as the Pope no longer favoured him.
+Life soon became impossible there, and of his own free will he retired
+to a hermitage in the woods of Cortona, followed by some dozen
+faithful friars, "not excepting," adds a spiteful chronicler, "Fra
+Bartolomeo da Padova, his most excellent cook." Thence he wrote to the
+Pope explaining his conduct, and humbly entreating to be pardoned, but
+the letter was found years afterwards in the pocket of the Pisan
+Vicar-General, who had promised to deliver it safely at Rome. Whether
+the letter was wilfully laid aside or only forgotten, none have been
+able to decide, but the incident had disastrous effects upon Elias. He
+waited anxiously for the pardon which never came, until embittered by
+finding himself deserted by nearly everyone, he openly joined the
+party of Frederic II. He went a step further, and abused Pope Gregory
+in caustic language, taunting him with injustice and avarice, and with
+being a simonist, which of course ended in his excommunication "to the
+great scandal of the Church." The news of his disgrace spread quickly
+through Italy, and the children sang a couplet, invented on the spur
+of the moment, under the windows of franciscan convents:
+
+     "Or'e attorno Frat'Elia
+     Che pres'ha la mala via."
+
+It was the cry which met the friars in every street they passed, so
+that the name of their former Vicar-General became hateful to them.
+And yet even now Elias must have had some friends in the Order, as at
+a council held at Genoa in 1244 there were a few who wished to
+reinstate him. The Pope commanded him to appear, but as the papal
+brief never arrived he was thus again debarred from clearing his much
+damaged character. The consequence of these efforts in his behalf only
+ended in his falling still deeper into disgrace; and for the second
+time he was excommunicated. We next hear of him roaming about the
+country with Frederic II, who found him useful on more than one
+occasion as a diplomatic agent. Elias was sent with strong letters of
+recommendation from Pier delle Vigne to Baldwin II, Emperor of
+Constantinople, and to Hugo I, King of Cyprus, and he was even charged
+to arrange a marriage for a daughter of Frederic. Among his various
+talents Elias seems to have been able to accommodate himself to a
+military life. We hear of him, both at the siege of Faenza and of
+Ravenna, riding out to battle on a magnificent charger. At other times
+he found a peaceful asylum at the Emperor's court, presenting a
+strange contrast to the "strolling minstrels, troubadours, poets,
+warriors, jugglers and artists of every grade" who frequented it. Upon
+the Emperor's death Elias returned to Cortona where the citizens
+received him kindly as he had obtained privileges for them at various
+times from his patron. Here, at the small hermitage in the ilex wood,
+he passed the last few years of his life in building a Franciscan
+church and convent, aided by the citizens who gave the ground for the
+site.
+
+While the last touch was being put to the building of the great
+Assisan Basilica and it was about to be consecrated by Innocent IV, in
+1253, Elias lay dying in his little cell at Cortona. His loneliness
+touched the heart of a lay brother, who with gentle words expressed
+his sorrow at seeing him an outcast from the Order and offered him
+help. Elias, no longer the proud ambitious churchman, answered very
+gently: "My brother, I see no other way save that thou shouldst go to
+the Pope and beg him for the love of God and of St. Francis His
+servant, through whose teaching I quitted the world, to absolve me
+from his excommunication and to give me back again the habit of
+religion." The lay brother hastened to Rome and pleaded so humbly that
+Innocent "permitted him to go back, and if he found Brother Elias
+alive he was to absolve him in his name from the excommunication and
+restore unto him the habit; so full of joy the friar departed and
+returned in hot haste to Brother Elias, and finding him yet alive but
+nigh unto death he absolved him from the excommunication and put on
+him again the habit, and Brother Elias quitted this life and his soul
+was saved by the merits of St. Francis and by his prayers in which
+Brother Elias had reposed such great faith."
+
+Some say that even at the last fate pursued Elias, for the city of
+Cortona being at that time under an interdict no blessed oil could be
+found for the sacrament of extreme unction. Certainly his body was not
+allowed to rest in the church he had built for the brethren. A zealous
+friar dug it up and flung it on a dunghill, saying that no Ghibelline
+should be permitted to lie in consecrated ground.
+
+Thus it was that Elias left a name hated among the franciscans as
+bitterly as the Emperor Frederic's always has been by Guelph
+historians. But while the war against the latter still rages as
+fiercely as ever, Elias, save for the gratitude felt by the citizens
+of Assisi, rests almost forgotten and his story hidden in the pages of
+old chronicles. Few even remember that owing to the untiring energy of
+this man Assisi owns one of the most beautiful monuments of mediaeval
+art. It is possible that had Fra Leo, Bernard of Quintavalle and his
+companions succeeded in those first days of struggle, the Basilica of
+San Francesco might never have attained its present magnificence or
+the art of Giotto been born in this Umbrian corner of Italy. Chi lo
+sa? It is a question one hardly even likes to think of. But the danger
+passed away, and who cares now whether the franciscans grumbled at the
+time, or said the church and convent with its buttresses and towers
+looked more like the feudal fortress of some mighty baron than the
+tomb of the Preacher of Poverty? The San Francesco we love rises
+golden and rose-tinted above the olive groves and the vineyards, above
+the plain with its young corn and the white villages lying among the
+fruit-trees, above a rushing torrent which circles round the base of
+the Subasian mountain on its way to the Tiber; and all day the varied
+group of church, arcaded convent and terraced gardens, is showing its
+beauty to the sun.
+
+In every light it is beautiful, in every mood we recall it, together
+with the choicest things we have seen in travel, haunting us like the
+charm of a living person. When the winter mists at early morning wrap
+round it like a mantle, or the stars form crowns above its roof and
+bell tower, there is always some new loveliness which thrills us, some
+fresh note of colour we have not noticed there before, making us again
+and again feel grateful that Elias forgot or ignored the teaching of
+his master.
+
+  [Illustration: SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE PLAIN]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[59] In the same way when Beato Egidio, ill and nigh his end, wished
+to return to the Portiuncula to die in the place he loved so well, the
+Perugians refused their consent and even placed soldiers round the
+monastery of Monte Ripido to prevent his escape.
+
+[60] In the illustrations on p. 38 and p. 107 is shown the gallows
+erected where now stands the franciscan basilica, but it is unlikely
+that the property of a private individual should have been used for
+such a purpose, and Collis Inferni may simply have meant the spur of
+hill beneath the upper portion of Assisi upon which the castle stood.
+
+[61] See Vasari, _Life of Arnolfo di Lapo_.
+
+[62] It would be a thankless task to follow the bewildering maze of
+contradictory evidence which has enveloped the question as to who
+built San Francesco. Those who are eager to do so, however, can
+consult Henry Thode's exhaustive work, _Franz von Assisi_ (beginning
+p. 187), which deals most thoroughly with the subject. Leader Scott
+also, in her learned book upon _The Cathedral Builders_, gives some
+ingenious theories with regard to "Jacopo" and his supposed
+relationship with Arnolfo, p. 315-316.
+
+Another book is _I Maestri Comacini_, by Professore Marzario, whose
+statements about "Jacopo's" nationality are interesting and probable.
+But, following Vasari a little too blindly, he gives us the startling
+fact that "Jacopo" died in 1310, this, even supposing him to have been
+only twenty-five when he was at Assisi as chief architect, would make
+him one hundred and fifteen years of age at the time of his death.
+
+[63] _L'Architecture Gothique_ par M. Edouard Corroyer. See pp. 96 and
+105.
+
+[64] _Speculum Perfectionis._ Edited by Paul Sabatier, cap. x.
+
+[65] For the Latin text see p. c. of M. Paul Sabatier's introduction
+to his edition of the _Speculum Perfectionis_.
+
+[66] Giovanni Parenti, who does not stand out very clearly in the
+history of the Order, was a Florentine magistrate of Citta di
+Castello, one of the first towns to feel the influence of St. Francis.
+There he heard of the new movement which so rapidly was spreading
+throughout Western Europe, and, together with many of the citizens,
+became converted through the teaching of the Umbrian saint.
+
+[67] It is impossible in this small book to give any idea of the
+various influences at work upon the young franciscan order during the
+life of the saint. I can only refer my readers to the charming pages
+of M. Paul Sabatier, who gives us a vivid picture of these early days
+in _La Vie de Saint Francois_, and in his introduction to the
+_Speculum Perfectionis_.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+_Cimabue and his School at San Francesco_
+
+   "Il semble au premier coup d'oeil que le reve de Francois
+   d'Assise a du amener la fin de tout l'art et de toute noble vie.
+   Chose etrange! ce sordide mendiant fut le pere de l'art
+   italien."--E. RENAN. _Nouvelles Etudes d'Histoire Religieuse._
+
+
+THE LOWER CHURCH
+
+So rarely in Italy is a church perfect both within and without that it
+is with amazement we find at Assisi not one but two churches, choir
+and nave piled above each other, and covered from roof to floor with
+frescoes, as perfect of their kind as the buildings which they
+decorate. Wars in every town, trouble, dissension and jealousies among
+men, raged like a storm over the land, but all this turmoil of a
+fevered age was unable to check the steady, rapid progress of at least
+this monument to a dead saint's memory; and we perceive yet another
+proof of the extraordinary influence of St. Francis, who was able by
+the devotion and admiration he excited, to inspire all with some of
+his own love of the beautiful, which has lasted in Italy, from the
+days of his ministry, through centuries of both faith and unbelief
+down to modern times. But from this arose a strange event; this lover
+of solitude, who during his life sought only for humiliation and
+obscurity and loved best the poor and deserted way-side sanctuaries,
+was laid to rest in one of the most beautiful Italian churches of that
+time.
+
+  [Illustration: THE LOWER CHURCH]
+
+While wandering through the Lower Church, marvelling at the delicate
+friezes of tiny heads, flowers and winged horses, which frame every
+fresco; at the great spreading arches--built for strength; the vaulted
+roof of deep azure blue with dull golden stars upon its surface,
+looming above the paintings and dimming their brilliancy by the
+shadows which lurk in its depth, we feel that within the shelter of
+its perpetual twilight this is a place to pray in. It is truly the
+home of St. Francis, and notwithstanding its richness and vast
+splendour his spirit is here, the certainty that he once had dwelt
+upon the earth is felt.
+
+Few ever stop to look at the walls of the nave, and indeed, upon
+coming out of the sunlight, the darkness and gloom for some minutes is
+oppressive and but little can be distinguished in the gloom. It was
+almost by chance that we one day noticed some frescoes, ruined and
+faded, just outside the Chapel of St. Martin. They are of no beauty as
+works of art, indeed they are rather ugly, but their interest lies in
+showing us that from the very beginning artists had endeavoured,
+however feebly, to depict the legend of St. Francis.[68] On the left
+wall of the nave, outside the Chapel of St. Martin, is a fresco
+representing the Sermon to the Birds with the same idea of composition
+which was adopted later by Giotto; the saint slightly bends towards
+the birds upon the ground, his companion stands behind, while the
+single tree adds a certain solemnity to the scene. The figures are
+large and ungainly, with feet terrible to behold, the lines are hard,
+and there is little feeling of movement or life; yet we look at it
+with reverence and hope, for we know that, with all the ugliness and
+stiffness of workmanship, the artist was vehemently striving in this
+dark church to shake off the hampering chains of worn-out traditions,
+and find for himself something nearer to the truth. And as we look at
+this one and at the next, representing St. Francis receiving the
+Stigmata, our thoughts are carried to other renderings of these
+scenes, and we say with light hearts: "After this poor craftsman comes
+Giotto, King of Tuscan painters."
+
+These are the only two frescoes illustrating the life of the saint,
+though there may have been others which were destroyed when the walls
+of the nave were broken down in order to form entrances to the
+chapels, added to the main building about 1300. But on the right side,
+beginning outside the Chapel of San Stefano, are parts of several
+scenes from the New Testament; a crowd of women and men standing round
+the cross, a group of women, the Descent from the Cross, a Pieta, a
+landscape with houses and a decoration of circular ornaments outside
+the Capella di Sta. Maria Maddalena, generally attributed to Giunta
+Pisano, thus giving them too early a date.[69]
+
+To us their interest seems rather to lie in that they plainly show how
+the earliest masters, whilst endeavouring to illustrate the franciscan
+legend, failed so completely to satisfy their employers that they were
+bidden to stay their hand and continue to paint the well-worn theme of
+the history of the world's redemption, which required less invention
+than the legend of St. Francis, where a new out-look on life had to be
+acquired. So the franciscans, failing to find a painter who could
+illustrate their founder's life to their satisfaction, contented
+themselves with other things, perhaps hoping that in course of time
+one might arise who could do justice to the theme. Well it was that
+they waited.
+
+Shortly after these frescoes had been completed in the Lower Church,
+art received a new impulse (one likes to think that the struggles of
+the first artist towards something better and more true to life had to
+do with this); others came, with Giotto at their head, and painted
+over some of these early efforts, leaving us only Cimabue's great
+Madonna, a few ruined frescoes, a Byzantine pattern, and stray touches
+of colour in dark corners of the church to remind us of these first
+decorators of San Francesco.
+
+We get a melancholy picture from Vasari of the depths to which art had
+sunk, and of the degenerate artists still following a worn-out
+tradition until it became as a dead thing in their hands deprived of
+all inspiration, when "in the year 1240, by the will of God, Giovanni
+Cimabue ... was born in the city of Florence to give the first light
+to the art of painting."
+
+Cimabue is rightly called the Father of Italian art, as he represented
+a new era among Italian masters who were awakening to their country's
+needs; when men, filled with strange restless energy, grew tired of
+the Byzantine Madonna with her court of stiff, lifeless saints, and
+looked for something in closer touch with their mood and aspirations.
+
+Round the name of Cimabue are grouped many charming legends belonging
+to a time when the people, anxious to possess the new thing their
+hearts craved for, looked eagerly and critically at an artist's work.
+There is the story of how when he had finished the picture of the
+Virgin Mary, the Florentines came to his workshop, and, expecting much
+from him, yet were amazed at the wonderful beauty of the grand
+Madonna, and carried the picture with rejoicing, to the sound of
+music, to the Church of Sta. Maria Novella, where it still hangs in
+the dark chapel of the Ruccellai; a street in Florence down which the
+picture passed being called Borgo Allegri, because of the gladness of
+that day. It is only a legend, and one that has been oft repeated, and
+as often doubted. Now the existence of Cimabue is even questioned by
+some, but whoever invented the story understood the great change which
+had come among the people and into art. It was only right that in the
+church of the saint who personified the feeling of the age, caught its
+spirit, and sent the impulse of the people even further, should centre
+all the first efforts towards this awakening and revival, until, step
+by step, the masterpieces of Giotto were reached. When we remember
+this, the large fresco of Cimabue in the right transept of the Lower
+Church becomes more full of beauty and meaning.[70] The great spirit
+of her presence fills the church, her majesty and nobility is that of
+the ideal Madonna, grave to sadness, thinking, as her eyes look
+steadily out upon the world, what future years would bring to the
+Child seated on her lap, who stretches out a baby hand to clasp her
+veil. All the angels round the throne sway towards her; in their heavy
+plaits of hair shines a dull red light, and in their wings and on the
+Madonna's gown are mauve and russet shades like the colours of
+autumnal oaks.... "To this day," says Mr Ruskin, "among all the Mater
+Dolorosas of Christianity, Cimabue's at Assisi is the noblest; nor did
+any painter after him add one link to the chain of thought with which
+he summed the creation of the earth, and preached its redemption."
+
+St. Francis has not been forgotten in this fresco, but Cimabue having
+given all his art to make the Virgin and her choir of angels
+beautiful, his figure is not quite one's idea of the ethereal Umbrian
+preacher, and his being there at all spoils the symmetry of the
+grouping. It is not improbable that the figure of St. Clare stood on
+the other side, and was erased when the Chapel of Sta. Maria Maddalena
+was built, and the ornamental border painted round this fresco, which
+cut off part of the wings of the two angels on the left of the Virgin.
+
+Vasari vaguely tells us of some frescoes from the lives of Jesus
+Christ and of St. Francis, painted by Cimabue in the Lower Church, and
+later writers have thought these must have been destroyed to make
+room for Giotto's work. If paintings were there at all they were more
+likely to have been the work of inferior artists, for it seems
+improbable that Giotto, coming to Assisi for the first time when he
+was quite a youth, should destroy any work of his master, who was
+still alive, in order to substitute his own early efforts.
+
+
+THE UPPER CHURCH
+
+Not only was the Upper Church essentially fitted for fresco painting,
+but it required an elaborate scheme of decoration, just as a setting,
+however perfect, needs a gem to complete it; and it almost seems as
+though "Jacopo" had stayed his hand, with the intention that here, at
+least, architecture should be subservient to wall decoration, and had
+foreseen the need of large spaces to be covered with paintings, as
+brightly coloured, as clear, and as closely set together as are the
+colours upon a butterfly's wings.
+
+"It was here, in the Upper Church of Assisi," says Mr Roger Fry, "that
+the Italian genius first attained to self-expression in the language
+of monumental painting, a language which no other European nation,
+except the Greeks, has ever mastered." But the question as to who were
+the predecessors of Giotto, and when exactly they came, can never, we
+think, be answered; for the time is not far off when these splendid
+ruins of early art will have totally faded away, or, what is
+infinitely worse, be covered with still thicker layers of paint than
+the "restorer" has already laid upon them.
+
+  [Illustration: LOOKING THROUGH THE DOORS OF THE UPPER CHURCH TOWARDS
+  THE PORTA S. GIACOMO AND THE CASTLE]
+
+Vasari finds no difficulty about the matter, declaring, to his own
+satisfaction and for the instruction of future generations, that every
+fresco in the apse and transepts, together with the series relating to
+the history of the Jews and the life of Christ, are by Cimabue. But
+then Cimabue was a Tuscan, and Vasari, the painter of Tuscan Arezzo,
+was determined to give as much glory to his fatherland as he could. We
+too would give all possible honour to Cimabue, but are bound to follow
+the opinion of later critics, who less prejudiced and hasty in their
+criticisms than Vasari, see the work of many hands in all these
+frescoes; so we have gathered together a few notes concerning them
+from various authorities to help the traveller to form his own ideas
+upon the subject. The theme is too endless to attempt in a small space
+to give more than a very brief summary of the chief facts.
+
+_Frescoes of the Choir and Transepts._--These may be divided into two
+distinct classes, those of the north transept, which are older and
+inferior to those of the south transept and choir. Herr Thode
+attributes their difference to the fact that while all are the work of
+Cimabue, the frescoes in the north transept were painted when he was
+quite young, while the rest belong to a later period, when he had
+attained his full powers. The Crucifixion of the north transept, one
+of the most ruined, reminds us somewhat of works by Margaritone which
+may be studied, without much pleasure, in most Italian galleries. The
+figures standing round the Cross are short, with small heads and large
+hands, and not even in the fainting Madonna is there the slightest
+charm. In the Martyrdom of St. Peter, on the next wall, it is curious
+to note the similarity of treatment to Giotto's fresco at Rome of the
+same subject. The Saint, head downwards upon the Cross without any
+group of people would have made but a dull composition; so both
+artists added an obelisk on either side to relieve the monotony of
+line.
+
+Then follows the scene of Simon Magus being borne upwards by demons
+with bat-like wings; and upon the next wall, beneath the triforium, is
+represented the death of Ananias and Sapphira, and St. Peter curing
+the lame before the Temple, where the figures are certainly more
+majestic and, according to Herr Thode, distinctly show the hand of
+Cimabue.
+
+Behind the papal throne are medallions of the friend and patron of
+St. Francis, Gregory IX, and of Innocent IV, who consecrated the
+Basilica. The frescoes represent the life of the Virgin, but they are
+all too faded to be enjoyed, save that of the Coronation on the right
+wall, just above the choir stalls; the Virgin is seated upon a wooden
+throne with Christ by her side and a group of apostles and spectators
+beneath. There is a striking resemblance in the drawing and form of
+the standing figures to those in the Crucifixion of the south
+transept. This, though very ruined and blackened in parts, showing no
+other trace of colour than a faint film of golden yellow, has still
+the power to make us feel that once, long ago, it was a fine work,
+worthy of a great master. Weeping angels fly above the Cross, some
+with outstretched hands, while others veil their eyes from the sight
+of the suffering Saviour; the Magdalen, her arms thrown up above her
+head, is seen in strong relief against the sky, and contrasting with
+this dramatic gesture, is the figure of the Virgin, erect and still,
+her hand clasped in that of St. John. The whole conception is
+dignified, replete with dramatic feeling of the nobler kind, and has
+been thought worthy, by Herr Thode, to be put down as the finest of
+Cimabue's creations.
+
+The remaining frescoes deal with scenes from the Apocalypse, but they
+are so ruined that it is a thankless task for any, except the student,
+to try and distinguish each separately. Indeed after a minute
+examination of so many ruined works of art, a certain sadness and
+weariness is felt, but if the pilgrim has time to rest awhile in a
+quiet corner of the stalls and look at choir and transepts solely for
+their colour, he will gain for himself many beautiful memories not
+easily forgotten. It is a vision of youthful saints, of men with
+lances hurrying down a rocky mountain side, of angels trumpeting to
+the four ends of the earth, and out of this medley of shadowy forms
+in fading frescoes, like sunlight breaking through a mist with golden
+light, loom the mighty angels of Cimabue. Their heads are crowned by a
+heavy mass of auburn hair, their wings slightly lifted, as though they
+were on earth but for a short space, and they seem as remote from
+mortals as the Sphynx herself in their dignity and calm repose. To
+Cimabue belongs the conception of such grave and strangely beautiful
+creations, winged messengers of strength, who come midway between the
+stiff Byzantine figures, and the swift-moving angels of Giotto and the
+cherub children forms of later Umbrian and Venetian schools.
+
+_The Nave._--All writers upon the subject agree that here the frescoes
+show no trace of Cimabue's style, but are from the hand of his
+contemporaries and pupils, who worked together in unfolding the
+history of the Jews and the world's redemption. If it is impossible to
+hint even at the names of these artists, the most hurried traveller
+must notice the different character which marks the legend of the New
+Testament from that of the Old, where the work of talented copyists of
+classical works of art differ from that of others who kept nearer to
+the style of Cimabue, instilling into it more or less life, as their
+individual powers permitted. Herein lies much of the history of early
+Italian art, but the few remaining frescoes, especially on the left
+wall, have been so terribly over-painted that the work of the critic
+is rendered well-nigh hopeless.
+
+Beginning at the right wall by the High Altar we have probably
+the work of a fine Byzantine master, or at least of one who must
+have copied a Greek masterpiece. In the Creation of the World,
+God, represented as a young man seated on a globe of fire, is,
+with a gesture of his hand, casting upon the earth his last
+creation--man--who, still suffused with celestial colour, is borne
+across the sea towards the land. A ram, a bull and a lion besport
+themselves upon the shore, enormous birds sit on the bushes, and the
+sea is already full of every kind of fish; slender pink clouds are in
+the sky, and the distant hills on the horizon have faded into shades
+of blue-green, like the landscape of an Umbrian picture.
+
+The nude figures of Adam and Eve in the Expulsion from Paradise are
+wonderfully good for the time, and the manner in which the angels are
+kicking them out of the garden of Eden is somewhat unusual.
+
+Beginning again at the first bay window but on the lower row of
+frescoes, in the Building of the Ark Noah is seated, an obelisk-shaped
+rock rising behind him, and gives his directions with a majestic air
+to his sons as to the sawing and placing of the great beams. A man,
+standing by his side, completes the composition, which has much
+dignity and finish.
+
+The fresco of the Sacrifice of Isaac, with Abraham raising his sword
+above him his body slightly thrown back, is perhaps one of the most
+striking of the series. The wind has caught his yellow robe, which
+unfurls itself against a landscape of sandy hills.
+
+All that remains of the next are three angels, whose grandeur can only
+be compared to those of Cimabue in the south transept. The remaining
+subjects on this side are by a different master, who followed closely
+the best classical traditions, and succeeds in giving extraordinary
+repose to his compositions as well as meaning to the various figures.
+
+In Jacob before Isaac, Isaac is waiting for his dish of venison, and
+Jacob's attitude denotes uncertainty as to the reception he is likely
+to receive, while his mother, lifting the curtain of her husband's
+bed, seems to encourage her son.
+
+The next fresco is similar in composition, but better preserved. Here
+we feel the blindness of Isaac, the perplexity of Esau, who cannot
+understand why his father refuses to bless him, and the fear of
+Rebecca, who has stepped back, knowing that her fraud must now be
+discovered. In this composition the artist has strictly kept to rules
+laid down by his predecessors, and the result, if a little stiff and
+wanting in originality, is yet pleasing and restful to look at,
+presenting a great contrast to the somewhat exaggerated movements
+expressed in the preceding ones.
+
+The last of the series is the steward finding the cup in Benjamin's
+sack, though greatly ruined it still shows much beauty of composition.
+
+Upon the opposite wall, by the altar, is depicted the life of Christ
+by followers of Cimabue, but the few frescoes that remain are so
+mutilated and repainted, that it is impossible to say much about them,
+or even to imagine what they may once have been.
+
+"In the Capture," writes Messrs Crowe and Cavacaselle, "the Saviour is
+of a superior size to the rest of those around him, and of a stern but
+serene bearing. Trivial conception marks the scene of the Saviour
+carrying the Cross."
+
+The Pieta, one of the last, is evidently by a finer scholar of
+Cimabue, and the woman coming round the rocks resembles slightly the
+figure of Rebecca in the two frescoes on the opposite side. "The
+composition," write the same authors, "is more like that which Giotto
+afterwards conceived than any other before or since"; but the colossal
+figure of Christ destroys the harmony of the scene.
+
+The arch at the end of the nave is painted to represent a series of
+niches, in each of which stands the figure of a saint, all are much
+repainted, as are the medallions of St. Peter and St. Paul by the
+door. The Descent of the Holy Spirit is greatly ruined, and in the
+Ascension the _intonaco_ has peeled off, showing the bricks, so that
+the apostles have the appearance of looking over a wall.
+
+The ceiling is frescoed in three different places by other masters,
+whose names have not come down to us. Between the transepts and nave
+the four Evangelists, seated outside the gates of towns, are so
+utterly ruined and blackened by time and damp that it is barely worth
+craning one's neck to look at them.[71] But the four medallions of
+Christ, the Madonna, St. John the Baptist and St. Francis, which
+ornament the centre of the nave, are among the most beautiful things
+in the church, and quite perfect as decoration. At each corner of the
+spandrels stands an angel upon a globe, with wings uplifted, delicate
+in outline and brilliantly coloured, while the whole is bordered by
+the most exquisite design of blossoms and green foliage rising out of
+slender vases, which mingle with cupids, angels, winged horses and
+rabbits on a dull red ground. It must have been painted by one who had
+learned his art from the same source whence the decorative painters of
+Pompeii drew their inspiration.
+
+It is not an easy thing to fit entire figures seated on large marble
+thrones into triangular spaces, and so the artist found, who in the
+groined ceiling nearest the door had to paint the Doctors of the
+Church, Sts. Jerome, Gregory, Ambrose and Augustin, dictating their
+epistles to busy clerks. But there is much that is charming in them,
+though as decoration they partly fail, and a resemblance may be found
+to the frescoes of Isaac and his sons, which seem to have influenced
+Giotto in his paintings of old men.
+
+Vasari's enthusiasm was roused when he looked upon these endless
+paintings, and he tells us that: "This work, truly grand and rich, and
+admirably well executed, must, I conceive, in those times have
+astonished the world, the more so that painting had for so long been
+sunk in such obscurity: and to me, who saw it once more in 1563, it
+appeared most beautiful, as I thought how Cimabue, in such darkness
+could have discovered so much light."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It would be well, before leaving, to look at the windows of the Upper
+Church, which are among the oldest in Italy, and, according to Herr
+Burckhardt, the most beautiful. As of most things connected with San
+Francesco, little is known about them; Vasari says they were designed
+by the painters of the frescoes; an opinion partly held by Herr Thode,
+who sees a great resemblance to the style of Cimabue in the right-hand
+window of the choir (the centre one is modern) with scenes from the
+lives of Abraham, David and Christ, of most beautiful colour and
+design. The left window, belonging to the same period, contains naive
+scenes from the Old Testament, amongst which (the sixth from the top
+of the left half) is Jonah emerging from a blue-green whale the colour
+of the waves, and possessed of large white eyes.
+
+Those of the transepts of the same date are even finer and more
+beautifully coloured. Medallions of geometrical patterns of exquisite
+design and hue ornament the left-hand window of the north transept,
+while that on the right contains scenes from the Old Testament and the
+life of Christ; in both of these, according to Herr Thode, the
+influence of Cimabue is apparent.
+
+The left window of the south transept contains seven scenes from the
+Creation and seven from the lives of Adam and Eve, who (in the last
+two divisions of the right half) are being driven out of Eden, and,
+spade in hand, are working at the foot of a tree. The eight saints of
+the right window, seated majestically on gothic thrones ornamented
+with spires, and dressed in rose-coloured, red and green garments,
+have certainly the appearance of being, as Herr Thode suggests, of a
+style even anterior to Cimabue.
+
+Half of the bay window on the left, looking towards the altar, is the
+work of the Umbrian school of the time of Fiorenzo di Lorenzo (there
+is a Madonna in a blue mantle, and St. Onofrio clothed in
+vine-leaves), while the left half, with medallions composed of very
+small pieces of glass representing scenes from the early life of
+Christ, are perhaps the most beautiful, and certainly the oldest, in
+the church, and can even be compared to the stained glass of French
+cathedrals. The third window (the second has suffered considerably,
+and what is left of the original belongs to the fifteenth century) has
+been a good deal restored, but the large angels with blue and purple
+wings standing in an arch, behind which a little town is seen, are
+very fine, and below them is a curious small figure of St. Francis
+floating in front of a colossal Christ, belonging also to the
+fifteenth century.
+
+Very beautiful are the two saints beneath gothic arches in the last
+window, and the priests in their rose-coloured stoles, the bishops in
+crimson and gold, and the other figures of warriors and saints.
+
+The right half of the bay window near the door upon the opposite
+side, belonging also to the Umbrian school, contains some charming
+scenes from the life of St. Anthony, while on the left are incidents
+of the life of St. Francis. The whole is remarkable for delicate rose
+colours, greens and pale blues, and a total absence of the strong deep
+tones of the older and finer windows; but they are very beautiful of
+their kind, like patches of pale sunshine in the church.
+
+The next two windows betray a more ancient style in the fine figures
+of the apostles (their heads, alas, are modern), and in the scenes
+from their lives, which are of a deeper tone than the former one; but
+even more beautiful is the last window, which does not seem to have
+been restored within the last three centuries, and where the colours
+standing out from a creamy background are very lovely. The two large
+and grand figures of two apostles are believed by Herr Thode to be
+from drawings by Cimabue.
+
+Both Francesco di Terranuova and Valentino da Udine were employed to
+repair all the windows about 1476, large sums being expended,
+principally by the Popes who never ceased to patronise the franciscan
+Basilica. A most comical appearance is given by the distressing
+additions made in our own time of modern heads upon bodies of the
+thirteenth or fourteenth century. Until very lately an exquisite rose
+window was to be seen over the eastern door, now replaced by white
+glass; one would like to know how it so mysteriously disappeared and
+where it now is.
+
+No pains had been spared to make San Francesco as lovely in every
+detail as the brain of man could devise, and it is most remarkable how
+the frescoes belong to the general idea of the building as though
+every artist had thought as much of this unity as of the individual
+perfection of his work. The beautiful papal throne in the choir, of
+white marble encrusted in mosaic with its frieze of strange animals
+in low relief, its arms supported by red marble lions, is almost a
+replica of the Soldan's throne in Giotto's fresco, and was designed by
+Fuccio Fiorentino in 1347, when the architecture that Giotto delighted
+in was still the recognised style in Italy.[72] The marble and mosaic
+altar is of the same date, and the octagonal pulpit of sculptured
+stone, with saints in small tabernacles, spiral columns and designs of
+leaves slightly tinted, supposed also to be by Fuccio, is placed at
+the corner of the wall of the nave looking as if it had grown there.
+The columns supporting the arched gallery round the church have each
+been painted to represent mauve and rose-coloured marbles, and there
+is not a single space in all the building which has not been decorated
+to harmonise with the frescoes, giving a perfect sense of infinite
+completeness and beauty, to which time has added by mellowing
+everything into a pale orange colour--the colour of Assisi.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[68] It is difficult to say how free a hand the artists were allowed
+when called in to execute work for any church, but probably, in the
+case of San Francesco, they were obliged to illustrate precisely the
+scenes and events chosen by the friars, who in the case of the saint's
+legend would be very severe judges, requiring quite the best that the
+artist could produce.
+
+[69] Later documents of the convent speak of a crucifix painted in
+1236 by Giunta Pisano with a portrait of Brother Elias "taken from
+life" and the following inscription:
+
+     Frater Elias fieri fecit
+     Jesu Christe pie
+     Misere pecantis Helie
+     Giunta Pisanus me pinxit. A.D.M. MCCXXXVI.
+
+It hung from a beam in the Upper Church until 1624 when it suddenly
+disappeared, and it seems to have inspired Padre Angeli (author of the
+"Collis Paradisi") with the theory that Giunta Pisano was the first to
+paint in San Francesco, ascribing to him, as some have continued to
+do, the frescoes in the choir and transept of the Upper Church. Messrs
+Crowe and Cavacaselle say, on what authority it is impossible to
+discover, that the middle aisle of the Lower Church "seems to have
+been painted between 1225 and 1250," ignoring the fact that Pope
+Gregory only laid the foundation stone of the Basilica in 1228.
+Without trying to find such early dates for the history of art at
+Assisi, it appears to us quite wonderful enough that some fifty or
+sixty years after the ceremony of the consecration in 1253, Cimabue
+and his contemporaries--Giotto and his Tuscan followers--had completed
+their work in both churches.
+
+[70] _Right_ transept is always synonymous with _South_ transept, but
+in this case, as San Francesco is built with the altar facing to the
+west because it was necessary to have the entrance away from the
+precipitous side of the hill, the _Right_ transept looks to the
+_North_, the _Left_ to the _South_, and we have thought it easier to
+keep to the actual position of the church in describing the different
+frescoes. Herr Thode in his book has done this, but it may be well to
+observe that Messrs Crowe and Cavacaselle refer to the transepts and
+chapels as if they faced the parts of the compass in the usual way.
+
+[71] To facilitate seeing the paintings of the ceiling, both here and
+in the Lower Church, it would be well to use a hand-glass, a simple
+and most effectual addition to the comfort of the traveller.
+
+[72] Mr Ruskin says that the gable of the bishop's throne is "of the
+exact period when the mosaic workers of the thirteenth century at Rome
+adopted rudely the masonry of the north. Briefly this is a Greek
+temple pediment, in which, doubtful of their power to carve figures
+beautiful enough, they cut a trefoiled hold for ornament, and bordered
+the edge with a harlequinade of mosaic. They then call to their aid
+the Greek sea waves, and let the surf of the AEgean climb along the
+slopes, and toss itself at the top into a fleur-de-lys."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+_The Paintings of Giotto and his School in the Lower Church_
+
+             "... Cimabue thought
+     To lord it over painting's field; and now
+     The cry is Giotto's, and his name eclipsed."
+       DANTE, _Purgatory_, xi., Cary's translation.
+
+
+The work of Cimabue, grand and noble as it is, yet gives the
+impression of belonging to remote times, between which and that of
+Giotto, his pupil, a great gulf is set. In both churches at Assisi we
+pass from the early efforts of an awakening age to the work of one,
+who, if not the first to see the light, was the first to discover the
+true principles of art, to give it life, and to found a school whence
+a long series of painters came to carry on for generations the lessons
+he had taught. Cimabue did wonders for the century in which he lived;
+of Giotto, even granting that his drawing was sometimes faulty, and
+the types of faces he painted were not always beautiful, it would be
+an insult to express such condescending praise; and even a hasty study
+of his frescoes in San Francesco must soon explain the everlasting
+sway he holds, now, as in those first years when his work seemed
+little short of miraculous to the wondering Florentines.
+
+  [Illustration: PLAN OF THE LOWER CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF SAN FRANCESCO
+  AT ASSISI]
+
+Some fourteen miles to the north of Florence, among the hills of the
+Mugello, lies the scattered hamlet of Vespignano where Giotto Bondone
+was born of a poor peasant family in the year 1265. Even at an
+early age, Vasari says, the boy was remarkable for the vivacity and
+quick intelligence which endeared him not only to his parents, but to
+all who knew him in the village and country round. He passed his
+childhood among them, knowing nothing of the city just across the
+hills, but learning much, during the long days while he wandered forth
+to tend his father's sheep, which was helpful to him in after years to
+preserve his straightforward outlook upon life and the strength and
+freshness of a nature that loved the sunburnt valleys and the freedom
+of the shepherd's existence.
+
+When Giotto was ten years old it happened that Cimabue, on his way
+from Florence to Vespignano upon a matter of business, found him
+seated by the roadside, his flock gathered near, busily employed in
+drawing the outline of a sheep from life upon a smooth piece of rock.
+Struck by the boy's industry in the pursuit of art and his evident
+cleverness, Cimabue hastened to obtain the father's consent to adopt
+and make an artist of him. Leaving the old life in the peasant's
+cottage for ever, Giotto now turned south along new roads, and with
+Cimabue by his side, saw for the first time the city of Florence,
+beautiful as she lay upon the banks of the Arno in a setting of wooded
+hills.
+
+The progress he made under Cimabue's guidance, who taught him all he
+knew, was marvellous indeed. At ten years of age a shepherd tracing
+idle fancies on the stones, then for a few years an apprentice in a
+Florentine workshop grinding colours with the others for his master's
+big Madonnas; while ten years later he had already gained the title of
+Master and was a famous painter, courted by popes and kings, and
+leaving masterpieces upon the walls of churches throughout Italy,
+that people of all times and countries have come and paused awhile to
+see.
+
+Let us suppose it was the air of Florence, which, according to Vasari,
+"generates a desire for glory and honour and gives a natural quickness
+to the perceptions of men," that made Giotto a perfect Florentine,
+alert, witty, and ever ready with a caustic repartee to anyone who
+bandied words with him. But though other influences were at work
+around him, and new images crowded upon his active brain, he kept
+undimmed the vision of his mountain valley, of the fields, of the days
+spent in his native village, and, with the eyes of a shepherd he
+continued to look on all the incidents of human life; he saw the
+grandeur, the tragedy, the weaknesses, aye, and the humour too, in
+everything that surrounded him, setting it all down in his frescoes in
+his own simple and original way. In a few words Mr Ruskin has touched
+upon the keynotes of Giotto's character when he says: ... "his mind
+was one of the most healthy, kind and active that ever informed a
+human frame. His love of beauty was entirely free from weakness; his
+love of truth untinged by severity; his industry constant without
+impatience; his workmanship accurate without formalism; his temper
+serene and yet playful; his imagination exhaustive without
+extravagance; and his faith firm without superstition. I do not know,
+in the annals of art, such another example of happy, practical,
+unerring, and benevolent power."
+
+Such was the man who came to Assisi to take up the work left
+uncompleted by Cimabue and his contemporaries. Giotto was then almost
+unknown, not having executed any of those great works upon which his
+fame now rests, and it is not unlikely that the recommendation by
+Cimabue of his promising pupil to the friars of San Francesco led to
+his being called there when barely twenty years of age.[73] Opinions
+differ as to which were his first works and whether he began in the
+Lower or in the Upper Church, and as there are absolutely no documents
+relating to the subject, and Vasari is of no help in the matter of
+dates or precise details, the only way to come to any conclusion is to
+group these frescoes according to their style. We do not wish to force
+any arbitrary opinions on this matter, and have simply placed Giotto's
+work in the order that it seems to us more likely to have been
+executed. Those who disagree have only to transpose the chapters as
+they think fit. The chief thing is to enjoy the frescoes and speculate
+as little as possible on all the contradictory volumes written about
+them.
+
+_Right Transept._--According to Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle these
+frescoes are by Giotto, and Mr Bernhard Berenson is of the opinion
+that they belong to his early period, and were executed by him before
+the franciscans knew what his powers were, and whether they could
+entrust to him the more difficult task of illustrating the legend of
+St. Francis. The subjects are taken from the early life of Christ
+which had been depicted many times in preceding centuries, but
+although Giotto attempted no very elaborate or original manner of
+treatment, his style was rapidly developing, and we have in some of
+the scenes little traits of nature which only belong to him. On the
+outside of the Chapel del Sacramento, over the arch, he painted the
+Annunciation with such charm, dignity and harmony of outline that it
+would be difficult to find a more perfect conception of religious
+feeling even among the pictures of Angelico. Unfortunately it can only
+be seen in the early afternoon when the light comes in through the
+windows of S. Giovanni; the Madonna rising with queenly grace and the
+angel hastening forward with his message then stand out from their
+dark background like living people, and show how, from the first,
+Giotto attained the power of giving vitality to his figures. His
+Madonna is not like a graven image to be worshipped from afar; she is
+essentially the earthly mother of the Saviour, and Giotto, while
+treating her story with dignity and a certain sense of remoteness,
+tells it by the simplest means, endowing her with the maternal
+tenderness of a young peasant girl whom we meet upon the roads
+carrying her child to lay beneath the shadow of a tree while she goes
+to her work in the fields close by.
+
+  [Illustration: CHOIR AND TRANSEPTS OF THE LOWER CHURCH]
+
+The Visitation (on the same wall as Cimabue's Madonna) is one of those
+frescoes that we remember like a scene we have witnessed, so naturally
+does the Virgin move forward, followed by a group of handmaidens, and
+hold out her arms to greet Elizabeth who is bending with such
+reverence to salute her cousin. They stand at the entrance of a dainty
+house inlaid with mosaic which is set among the bare rocks with only a
+stunted tree here and there. But Giotto does not forget to place a
+flowering plant in the balcony just as the peasants have always done
+in his mountain home.
+
+It is interesting to compare the next fresco of the Nativity with the
+same subject in the Upper Church, treated by a follower of Cimabue
+where the same idea is depicted, but with what a difference. Though
+two episodes are placed in one picture, Giotto succeeds in giving a
+harmonious composition, which, if a little stiff and over symmetrical,
+is full of charm and beauty. The angels singing to the new-born Infant
+and those apprising the shepherds of the news hover like a flight of
+birds above the barn. They are in truth the winged spirits of the air,
+"birds of God" Dante calls them, and thus Giotto paints them. As
+though to accentuate the sadness and poverty of Christ's birthplace,
+the barn, all open and exposed to the night breezes, is laid in a
+lonely landscape with a high rock rising behind it. Beyond in the
+valley, a leafless tree grows upon the bank of a calm stream where the
+heavenly light from the angels is seen to play like moonbeams in its
+waters.
+
+Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle hold that the Visit of the Magi was
+"never painted with more feeling, more naturally or beautifully
+composed than here"; and Giotto must have felt he could add little to
+the perfection of the scene when in later years he painted the same
+subject at Padua. All interest is centred on the Child, who, bending
+forward from the Virgin's arms, lays a tiny hand in blessing upon the
+head of the aged king. Curiously enough St. Joseph has been forgotten,
+and instead an angel stands upon either side to receive the offerings
+of the Magi.
+
+But to us the Purification seems even more beautiful in sentiment,
+composition and the perfection of religious feeling. Giotto was the
+first to conceive the idea of the Infant Jesus turning from Simeon
+towards the Virgin Mary as if anxious to come back to her, while she
+holds out her arms to invite him with a naive attitude of gentle
+motherhood.
+
+From charming frescoes like these we come to the grand and powerful
+scene of the Crucifixion. Every figure tells a different tale of
+sorrow; of tender pity, as in the group of women round the fainting
+Virgin; of wonder that Christ should be allowed to suffer, as in the
+gesture of the woman with arms thrown back and St. John who wrings his
+hands almost fiercely; of sympathy expressed by the Magdalene, as she
+kisses the pierced feet; and of hope and prayer, in the kneeling
+figures of St. Francis and his brethren. Even more vehement in their
+grief are the angels, who rending their garments fly away with arms
+stretched out as if unable to bear the sight of so much pain. How
+rapidly they turn and circle in the air; they are not borne along by
+the winds, but trusting to their wings they rise with the swift, sure
+flight of a swallow.[74]
+
+Upon the opposite wall the early life of the Virgin is continued with
+the Flight into Egypt, which bears a strong resemblance to the fresco
+at Padua. There is the same sense that St. Joseph, his bundle slung on
+a stick over his shoulder like a pilgrim, is really walking along and
+in a moment must disappear from sight; a palm tree bends sideways to
+the breeze, and above two angels seem to cleave the air as they
+hurriedly lead on the travellers to exile and safety. Only the Virgin
+sits calm and unruffled. In the Massacre of the Innocents Giotto has
+happily not painted the full horror of the scene, but has aimed rather
+at suggesting the tragedy than at giving its actual representation.
+Very beautiful are the women to the left mourning for their dead
+children. One rocks her child in her arms and tries to awaken him with
+her kisses, whilst another raises her hands in despair as she gazes
+upon the dead child upon her knees.
+
+The Return of the Holy Family from Egypt, though only showing a group
+of houses within surrounding walls and a gateway and a group of
+people, suggests better than a more complicated composition would have
+done the scene of a home-coming after long absence.
+
+The Preaching of the Child in the Temple completes the series, and
+like the one at Padua, it is the least interesting of Giotto's
+paintings.
+
+There are three other frescoes in the Transept which most people, with
+reason, attribute to Giotto, representing miracles of St. Francis.
+The first refers to a child of the Spini family of Florence who fell
+from a tower of the Palazzo Spini (now Feroni), and was being carried
+to the grave, when the intercession of St. Francis was invoked and he
+appeared among them to restore the child to life. Part of the fresco
+has been lost owing to the ruthless way in which the walls were cut
+into for the purpose of erecting an organ--a barbarous act difficult
+to understand. But the principal group of people are seen outside an
+exquisite basilica of marble and mosaic, and each figure can be
+studied with pleasure as they have not been mutilated by the
+"restorer's" usual layers of thick paint. Seldom has Giotto painted
+lovelier women than those kneeling in the foreground, their profiles
+of delicate and pure outline recalling a border of white flowers. Near
+them is a figure bearing so strong a resemblance to Dante, that we
+would fain believe that Giotto meant to represent the type of a true
+Florentine in a portrait of the poet. Above the staircase is a fine
+picture of St. Francis resting his hand upon the shoulder of a crowned
+skeleton "in which," says Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle, "a much
+deeper study of anatomy is revealed than has ever been conceded to
+Giotto." The oval face of the saint, with clear brown colouring, is
+very beautiful, strongly resembling the St. Francis in glory in the
+fresco above the high altar. By him also is the half-length figure of
+Christ in the vaulting of the window.
+
+Although the two remaining frescoes deal with the death and
+resurrection of a child, they probably have nothing to do with the
+Spini miracle; the one where the dead child is lying in the arms of
+two men has unfortunately been so repainted as to take all character
+away from the faces, and we can only admire the general grouping, the
+fine gestures of the weeping women, and the grand modelling of the
+figures. Only a great artist could make one feel, by such simple
+means, the strain of the dead weight upon the men's arms. The man to
+the left (the second from the one holding his finger to his chin) is
+believed to be the portrait of Giotto; if it is, the painter has not
+flattered himself, and we can believe Dante's tale that he was
+remarkably ugly, and had six hideous children. On the other side of
+the arch the legend continues; a procession of white-robed monks and
+sorrowing friends approach the house to which the child has been
+taken, but in the meantime St. Francis has called him back to life,
+and a man, evidently in great excitement over the miracle, is hurrying
+down the steps to announce what has occurred. The story is so well and
+simply told that, although we have failed to find any account of it,
+it is easy to understand the sequence of the two frescoes, and the
+events they relate.
+
+_Allegories by Giotto in the ceiling over the High Altar._--The task
+was now given to Giotto to depict by the medium of allegory the three
+virtues of the franciscan order and St. Francis in glory. These
+virtues, the rocks upon which the franciscan order was so securely
+founded, had been preached by St. Francis to the people of Italy with
+the extraordinary results we have seen, and now Giotto came to take up
+the theme and, by means of his immortal art, perpetuate it as long as
+the great basilica lasts, and pilgrims come to pray and read upon the
+walls, in a language even the unlettered can understand, the lessons
+taught by the Umbrian preacher seven centuries ago. Apart from the
+fact of his genius, it was a fortunate thing that he should have been
+chosen for the task. A man of weaker and more impressionable
+temperament might have been led into such exaggerations of feeling and
+sentiment as we find in the Lorenzetti frescoes of the transept.
+Giotto came not many years after the Flagellants, roaming in hordes
+through the land calling for mercy and beating their half-naked bodies
+with leathern thongs, had spread a spirit of fanaticism which
+threatened to destroy the healthy influence of the teaching of St.
+Francis. But the mountain-born painter, impervious to such influences,
+kept his faith pure amidst the turmoil and unrest; and much as he
+admired the saint (it is said he belonged to the Third order), he
+looked upon his teaching from the practical point of view and was by
+no means carried away by the poetical manner in which it had been
+presented to the people. Nothing shows the mind and character of
+Giotto so plainly as some lines he wrote on poverty, most likely after
+painting his famous Allegories when he had an opportunity to observe
+how little the manners and customs of mediaeval monks corresponded with
+the spirit of their founder. Every line of the poem is full of common
+sense and knowledge of human frailty. Many, Giotto remarks somewhat
+sarcastically, praise poverty; but he does not himself recommend it as
+virtue is seldom co-existent with extremes; and voluntary poverty,
+upon which he touches in a few caustic lines, is the cause of many
+ills, and rarely brings peace to those who have chosen her as a mate
+and who too often study how to avoid her company; thus it happens that
+under the false mantle of the gentlest of lambs appears the fiercest
+wolf, and by such hypocrisy is the world corrupted.[75]
+
+  [Illustration: THE MARRIAGE OF ST. FRANCIS WITH POVERTY
+  (D. ANDERSON--_photo_)]
+
+Giotto, an artist before he was a moralist, undertook to carry out the
+wishes of his patrons, and thought only how he could best fill the
+triangular spaces of the ceiling with the figures of saints and
+angels. It was by no means an easy task, but Giotto succeeded so well
+that these four frescoes are reckoned among his masterpieces and
+the wonders of the thirteenth century. They certainly show a marked
+advance upon the earlier works in the Transept, but they lack the
+power and assurance of those in the Upper Church, where the youthful
+painter all but reached the zenith of his fame.
+
+_The Marriage of St. Francis and Poverty._[76]--In this fresco Giotto
+has represented three incidents, but just as they all refer to one
+subject, so do the figures form a perfect harmony, faultless as
+decoration and beautiful as a picture. A youth, imitating the charity
+of St. Francis to whom his guardian angel is pointing, is seen on the
+left giving his cloak to a beggar, while upon the other side, a miser
+clutching his money-bag and a youth with a falcon on his gloved hand
+refuse to listen to the good suggestions of an angel and of the friar
+who stands between them. The lines of decoration are further carried
+out by the two angels who fly up carrying a temple with an enclosed
+garden, perhaps symbolising Charity, and a franciscan habit, which may
+be the symbol of Obedience. But these are details and the eye does not
+rest upon them, but rather is carried straight into the midst of a
+court of attendant angels where Christ, standing upon a rock, gives
+the hand of St. Francis to the Lady Poverty, who slightly draws away
+as if in warning of the hardships and disillusions in store for him
+who links his life with hers. Cold and white, her garments torn by a
+network of accacia thorns, she is indeed the true widow of Christ,
+who, after His death as Dante says,
+
+                   "... slighted and obscure
+     Thousand and hundred years and more, remain'd
+       Without a single suitor, till he came."[77]
+
+The bridesmaids, Hope pointing to the sky, and Charity holding a heart
+and crowned with flowers that start into tiny flames, come floating
+out of the choir of angels towards the pale bride whose veil is
+bounded only by her hair. Heedless of the children of earth, who
+encouraged by the barking of a dog, press the thorns still deeper into
+her flesh, she gazes at St. Francis, and shows him the pink and white
+roses of paradise and the Madonna lilies which are flowering behind
+her wings.
+
+_Chastity._--The different stages of perfection in the religious life
+are portrayed in this allegory. To the left St. Francis welcomes three
+aspirants to the order--Bernard of Quintavalle--typifying the
+franciscans; St. Clare--the Second Order; and one, who is said to be
+the poet Dante, in the near foreground in a florentine dress of the
+period--the Third Order. Two angels in the central group impose hands
+and pour the purifying water upon the head of a youth standing naked
+in a font, and two other angels bend forward with the franciscan
+habits in their hands, while leaning over the wall of the fortress are
+two figures, one presenting the banner of purity the other the shield
+of fortitude to the novice. On either side stands a grey-bearded,
+mail-clad warrior, lash and shield in hand to denote the perpetual
+warfare and self-mortification of those who follow St. Francis. To the
+right three youthful warrior-monks, beautiful of feature, bearing the
+signs of the Passion in their hands, aided by one in the garb of a
+Penitent with angels' wings, are chasing away the tempting spirits of
+the flesh from the rocks about the fortress into the abyss below. The
+winged boar falls backwards, followed by a demon and a winged skeleton
+emblematic of the perpetual death of the wicked, while poor
+blindfolded Love writhes beneath the lash of Penitence. But just as he
+is about to spring down with the rest, his string of human hearts
+still slung across his shoulders, he snatches up a sprig of roses from
+the rocks.
+
+Above, out of a walled enclosure guarded at each end by towers like
+every mediaeval castle on the hills about Italian towns, rises a
+crenulated fortress. At the open window of the magnificent central
+tower is seen Chastity, veiled and in prayer as if unconscious of the
+scene below, her vigilance typified by the bell o'erhead. She appears
+to be reading, by the light of a taper, from the open book held before
+her by an angel, while another is bringing her the palm of sanctity.
+They are no longer Giotto's bird-like creations, but stately
+messengers with splendid human forms uplifted by outstretched wings
+their garments brought into long curved lines by the rapidity of their
+flight.
+
+_Obedience._--Under an open _loggia_ sits the winged figure of
+Obedience in the habit of a franciscan, holding his finger to his lips
+as he places a wooden yoke (symbol of obedience) upon the neck of a
+kneeling friar. Prudence, with double face, holding a glass mirror and
+a compass, and Humility, with her lighted taper to illumine the path
+to paradise, are seated on either side, perhaps to show that he who
+imposes obedience upon others must be prudent and humble himself. An
+angel upon the right is pointing these virtues out to a centaur
+(symbolizing pride, envy and avarice), who, thrown back upon his
+haunches by a ray of light from the mirror of Prudence, is thus
+stopped from tempting away the young novice kneeling on the opposite
+side, encouraged in his act of renunciation by the angel who holds him
+firmly by the wrist. Two divine hands appear from the clouds above and
+are holding St. Francis by his yoke, while two angels unroll the rules
+of his order.
+
+_The Glory of St. Francis._--The throng of fair-haired angels, seem,
+as they move towards the throne of the saint and press around it, to
+be intoning a hymn of perpetual praise and jubilation. Their figures,
+against the dull gold background, are seen white and strong, with here
+and there a touch of mauve or pale blue in their garments bringing out
+more distinctly the feeling of light and joyousness. The perpetual
+movement of the heavenly choir, some blowing long trumpets, others
+playing on flutes and tambourines, while many gaze upwards in silent
+prayer as they float upon the clouds, contrasts strangely with the
+stiff and silent figure of St. Francis, who in his robe of gold and
+black brocade, a brilliant light behind him, looks like some
+marvellous eastern deity, recalling Dante's words of how he
+
+                           "... arose
+     A sun upon the world, as duly this
+     From Ganges doth: ..."
+
+In the dimness of the cave-like church built to serve the purpose of a
+tomb and keep men's ideas familiar with the thought of death, these
+frescoes are glimpses into the heaven of the blest. Watch them at all
+hours of the day and there will be some new wonder to be noted, a face
+among the crowd which seems fairer than the rest, or, as the sunshine
+moves across, a flash of colours in an angel's wing like the sudden
+coming of a rainbow in a cloudy sky. And who shall forget the strange
+play of fancy as the candle light, during an afternoon service,
+mingles with the strong sunshine upon the white figures of saints and
+the whiter figure of the Lady Poverty, who appear to move towards us
+from amidst a blaze of golden clouds, until gradually as the evening
+closes in and the candles go out one by one, they are set once more in
+the shadow of their backgrounds like so many images of snow.
+
+_La Capella del Sacramento, or the Chapel of St. Nicholas._--Giotto
+left one scholar at Assisi whose work it is easy to discover, but who,
+as far as name and personality are concerned, is unknown, and shares
+in the general mystery which surrounds both the builders and painters
+of San Francesco. All we know is that he followed his master's style
+and great laws of composition even more closely than Taddeo Gaddi, and
+that he possessed much charm and originality. By the kind help of Mr
+Bernhard Berenson we have been able to group together some of the
+works of this interesting artist, who was evidently working at Assisi
+between 1300 and 1310 when he executed the last nine frescoes of the
+Upper Church illustrating the death and the miracles of St. Francis,
+decorated the Capella del Sacramento in the Lower Church with the
+legend of St. Nicholas, and painted a fine Crucifixion in the
+Confraternity of San Rufinuccio (see chap. x). There is a very
+delightful panel picture also by him in the corridor of the Uffizzi
+(No. 20 in the corridor), with eight small scenes from the life of St.
+Cecilia.
+
+In a fresco over the arch on the inside of the Capella del Sacramento
+are portraits of the donors of the chapel, Cardinal Napoleone Orsini,
+who is being presented to Christ by St. Francis, and his younger
+brother Giovanni (below him is written Dns Jons Gaetanus frater ejus),
+presented by St. Nicholas. It helps to date the decoration of the
+chapel, for we know that Giovanni Orsini received the cardinal's hat
+in 1316, while here he is represented in the white dress of a deacon
+confirming the general opinion that these frescoes must have been
+painted before that date.[78]
+
+St. Nicholas of Myra, generally known as St. Nicholas of Bari, both
+during his life and after his death was forever coming to the
+assistance of the oppressed; he did not even object to be the patron
+saint of drunkards and thieves, as well as of maiden virtue. He can
+easily be recognised in art by the three purses or golden balls which
+are always placed at his feet, in reference to the first kind action
+he performed when a wealthy young noble. This incident is charmingly
+recorded in the chapel upon the right wall near the entrance. Three
+sleeping maidens are lying by their father's side, and St. Nicholas,
+who has heard of their poverty, throws in three bags of gold as he
+passes by the open window. This charitable deed has made him a famous
+saint; when Dante is in Purgatory he hears the spirit of Hugh Capet
+recounting various acts of virtuous poverty and generosity, among
+which
+
+                   "... it spake the gift
+     Of Nicholas, which on the maidens he
+     Bounteous bestow'd, to save their youthful prime
+     Unblemish'd...."
+
+Below (the picture immediately beneath is entirely obliterated) is a
+very beautiful composition, recalling the same artist's treatment of
+St. Clare and her nuns in the Upper Church. In front of a Gothic
+chapel of white and black marble stands St. Nicholas, between two
+placid and portly friars, listening to the petition of a despairing
+father who implores his protection for his three sons, unjustly
+condemned to death by a wicked consul. The figures of the prisoners,
+with halters round their necks, followed by sympathising friends, are
+full of movement and life; St. Nicholas is particularly charming,
+dressed in his episcopal robes, slightly bending forward and listening
+attentively to the doleful tale.[79]
+
+The legend is continued upon the opposite side, where he arrives just
+in time to save the youths. The figure of the kneeling victim
+expecting the blow every moment to fall upon his neck and the majestic
+attitude of the saint in the act of seizing the sword, are finely
+rendered, but Giotto would hardly have approved of the complicated
+building decked with much superfluous decoration which is supposed to
+represent the city gate.
+
+The fresco below relates a vision of the Emperor Constantine who had
+ordered his three generals, unjustly accused of treason, to be put to
+death. St. Nicholas appears and commands him to release the prisoners,
+who are in a wooden cage by the bed.
+
+High up in the lunette of this wall is an interesting fresco referring
+to a humorous incident of one of the saint's miracles. It appears that
+a Jew, hearing that St. Nicholas gave special protection to property,
+placed a statue of him in his house; but it must be remembered that
+St. Nicholas was also the patron of thieves, and one day all the Jew's
+possessions disappeared. Enraged by the failure of his plan he
+administered a sound thrashing to the statue, which stands in a
+beautiful niche with spiral columns, behaving much in the same way as
+the childish sons of faith in Southern Italy who turn the Madonna's
+picture to the wall when their prayers have not been effectual. In
+this case St. Nicholas was so deeply offended that he appeared in a
+vision to the thieves, who kindly restored the goods of the irate Jew.
+There are dim remains of frescoes on this wall, but it is impossible
+to make out what they represent. Other wonderful miracles are related
+upon the opposite side, beginning high up in the lunette, where, with
+some difficulty, we distinguished St. Nicholas restoring a child to
+life who has been taken from his parents and killed by evil spirits.
+Below is a scene in a banqueting hall, where a king, seated at table,
+takes a goblet of wine from the hand of a slave boy. St. Nicholas, in
+full episcopals, performs one of his many aerial flights, lays his hand
+upon the boy's head and carries him back to his parents. In the scene
+beneath St. Nicholas is restoring to his people another youth, who, it
+seems, was nearly drowned while filling a goblet with water for the
+altar of St. Nicholas; or it may be the continuation of the preceding
+legend, and show the home-coming of the captive boy from the king's
+palace. It is one of the most charmingly rendered of the series; the
+impetuous action of the mother rising with outstretched arms to
+welcome her son, and the calm dignity of the father's embrace, are
+almost worthy of Giotto himself. A small dog bounds forward to add his
+welcome to the others, while St. Nicholas surveys the scene with great
+gravity, every line of his figure denoting dignity, power and repose.
+
+On one side of the arched entrance to the chapel is a fresco of St.
+Mary Magdalen, on the opposite side is St. John the Baptist, and in
+the vaulting of the arch, on the right, are St. Anthony of Padua with
+St. Francis; St. Albino with St. George; St. Agnes holding a lamb,
+perhaps the most graceful of the figures, with St. Cecilia crowned
+with roses. Opposite are St. Rufino and St. Nicholas holding a book;
+St. Sabino and St. Vittorino, both Assisan martyrs; and St. Claire
+with St. Catherine of Alexandria. But the quality of this artist will
+be only half realised if the single figures of the apostles on the
+walls below the scenes from the life of Nicholas are overlooked. Very
+grave and reposeful they lend an air of great solemnity to the chapel,
+and as Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle remark, they are "after those of
+Giotto in the Ciborium of Rome, the most admirable that were produced
+in the early times of the revival...."
+
+It is as difficult to explain why the Chapel of St. Nicholas possesses
+so much charm, as it is to understand why people seldom spend more
+than sufficient time to read the few lines in their guide-book about
+it and verify for themselves that the frescoes are there; but perhaps
+when some fifty frescoes by Giotto have to be realised in about an
+hour, which is the time usually devoted to them by the visitor to
+Assisi, it is not surprising that Giotto's follower, the closest and
+the best he ever had, should be neglected.
+
+The stained glass windows, remarkable rather for their harmony than
+for their depth of tone, belong also to the early part of the
+fourteenth century, and are decorated with the Orsini arms. On the
+left side of the central window is a charming design of St. Francis in
+a rose-coloured mantle, recommending to Christ the young Giovanni
+Gaetano Orsini, who is said to be buried in the chapel. His monument
+behind the altar, erected soon after his death in 1347, is, according
+to Vasari, the work of Agostino da Siena, a pupil of Giovanni Pisano.
+Very calm and youthful-looking the Cardinal lies at full length in
+long folded robes while two angels guard his slumbers.
+
+There is yet another treasure in St. Nicholas' Chapel; a lovely
+picture on panel of the Virgin and saints (rather difficult to see as
+it is against the light over the altar), by a Sienese artist who
+possesses some of Simone Martini's talent of depicting ethereal and
+serene Madonnas.
+
+_The Chapel of St. Maria Maddalena._--According to a legend given by
+Padre Angeli the chapel was built and consecrated by St. Bonaventure
+while General of the franciscan order towards the end of the
+thirteenth century. The three frescoes on the left wall certainly
+belong to Giotto's time, and if not actually painted by him they
+appear to be from his designs, and not merely copies of the Paduan
+frescoes which they resemble. Above the frescoes of the Raising of
+Lazarus and the Anointing of Christ's feet is the Communion of the
+Magdalen, rendered with such simplicity yet with so much religious
+feeling and solemnity that we realise it is indeed the last communion
+of the saint on earth. The attitude of the priest, the splendid
+drapery of the man in orange-coloured garments, and the way in which
+the figure of the saint being carried by angels to heaven completes
+the composition, bear unmistakably the impress of Giotto's style
+before the Paduan period (1206).
+
+The "Noli mi Tangere" upon the opposite wall may also have been
+designed by him, but the type of the faces are heavier than his, and
+the angels are no longer swift spirits of the heavens ending in flame
+and cloud.
+
+The painter, as if wishing to remind the faithful of the new life
+symbolised in the resurrection of Christ, has covered the rocks and
+ground with flowering rosebushes and exquisitely designed tufts of
+ferns and leaves.
+
+The story of the Prince and Princess of Marseilles is a favourite
+subject with the Giottesque school. The legend tells that when Mary
+Magdalen arrived at Marseilles with Lazarus and Martha, she met a
+prince and his wife who were praying to the gods for a son, and she
+persuaded them to pray instead to the God of the Christians. Their
+desire was granted, and they were converted, but evidently being of a
+cautious turn of mind, they resolved to sail at once for Jerusalem and
+find out if St. Peter's teaching agreed with that of the Magdalen. On
+the way a terrible storm arose, and during the tempest the princess
+gave birth to a son, and died. The sailors insisted that her body must
+be thrown overboard or the storm, they said, would not abate; at last
+the prince was forced to lay the body of his wife upon a rocky island
+in the midst of the ocean, and calling upon Mary Magdalen for help, he
+left the child wrapt in the cloak of its dead mother by her side and
+continued the journey to the Holy Land. His visit to St. Peter ended
+in his complete conversion, and upon his return to France he stopped
+at the rocky island where he found his wife and son alive and well,
+thanks to the prayers of St. Mary Magdalen. They returned to
+Marseilles, the vessel being guided by angels, and the whole town
+became Christian.
+
+Above the arch facing the altar is a very charming fresco of the
+Magdalen standing at the entrance of a cave, her hair falling like a
+mantle of cloth of gold about her, to receive the gift of a garment
+from a charitable hermit who had heard of her life of austerity and
+privation among the mountains of Provence.
+
+The single figures of St. Clare, St. Mary Magdalen and St. Rufino, as
+well as the saints in the vaulting opposite the altar, no longer
+follow Giotto's designs and are far inferior to the other frescoes.
+Teobaldo Pontano, Bishop of Assisi between 1314 and 1329, is supposed
+to be the kneeling figure at the feet of St. Rufino as donor of the
+chapel. It is so unlikely Giotto should have repeated his later Paduan
+designs in a feebler manner, as seen here, or that a pupil should
+have slavishly copied them, that it seems more probable the chapel
+dates from the time of St. Bonaventure, when its decoration may have
+been begun by Giotto and completed by some later Florentine follower
+called in by the bishop who desired to be buried here. The Pontano
+arms decorate the beautiful stained glass windows, which certainly
+date from the first half of the fourteenth century, and are the finest
+in the Lower Church with the exception of those in St. Martin's
+chapel. Each figure has a claim on our admiration, but especially
+lovely is the figure of the Magdalen whose hair falls to her feet in
+heavy waves of deepest gold. In the last division of the right window
+is the death of the saint, with the lions at her feet which are
+supposed to have dug her grave.
+
+_The Chapel of St. Antonio di Padova._--Built by the Assisan family of
+Lelli in the fourteenth century, it was once ornamented by Florentine
+frescoes of the same date which were destroyed when the roof fell in,
+and it has now nothing of interest save the windows. These contain
+some naive scenes from the life of St. Anthony; among them may be
+noticed his preaching to the fish which raise their heads above the
+water to listen.
+
+_Chapel of San Stefano._--This like the last, has only very decadent
+frescoes by Adone Doni and is solely interesting for its windows
+(second half of fourteenth century), where below the symbols of the
+Evangelists are single figures of saints, among them King Louis and
+the royal Bishop of Toulouse. Cardinal Gentile di Montefiore, founder
+of the chapel of S. Martino, was also the donor of this one and is
+represented in the right window with his crest, a tree growing out of
+a blue mound against an orange background.
+
+_The Chapel of St. Catherine, or Capella del Crocifisso._--This
+chapel was built by order of Cardinal Albornoz towards the end of the
+fourteenth century when on his passage through Umbria to reconquer the
+rebellious cities for the Roman Pontiff. He conceived at Assisi so
+great a love for the memory of St. Francis that he desired to be
+buried there; but though his body was brought to Assisi from Viterbo
+where he died in 1367, it was afterwards carried to his bishopric at
+Toledo "at small expense," writes an economical chronicler, "upon
+men's shoulders"; only a cardinal's hat, suspended from the roof of
+the chapel, now remains to remind us of the warlike Spanish prelate.
+The frescoes here have been assigned to that mythical person
+Buffalmaco, of whom Vasari relates such humorous tales. All we can say
+is that they belong to the second half of the fourteenth century and
+are not very pleasing scenes from the life and martyrdom of St.
+Catherine of Alexandria, with a fresco of Cardinal Albornoz receiving
+consecration from a pope under the auspices of St. Francis. The
+windows are the first things to shine out amidst the gloom as one
+enters the Lower Church. Especially attractive are the figures of St.
+Francis and St. Clare, their cloaks of the colour of a tea-rose, and
+of the other saints in green and russet-brown standing in a frame of
+twisted ribbons tied in bows above their heads. Unfortunately the
+glass has been repaired in some places by careless modern workers and
+we see such strange results as the large head of a bearded man upon
+the body of St. Catherine, high up in the left hand window.
+
+  [Illustration: THE OLD CEMETERY OF SAN FRANCESCO]
+
+_The Chapel of St. Anthony the Abbot._[80]--About 1367 two monuments
+were erected in this chapel over the sepulchres of two murdered
+princes--Messer Ferdinando Blasco, nephew of the Cardinal Albornoz,
+and his son Garzia. Some say they met their death at Spoleto where the
+father was vice-governor, others that they were killed at Assisi close
+to the convent of S. Appolinare by the citizens before they submitted
+to the kindly rule of the Cardinal. The chapel had been built by a
+liberal Assisan gentleman who also left money for its decoration; but
+if there were paintings (Vasari mentions some by Pace di Faenza)
+nothing now remains but a rather feeble picture by a scholar of
+Pinturicchio. The white stone monuments, the white-washed walls and
+the total absence of colour gives an uncared-for look to this
+out-of-the way corner of the church. A much brighter spot is the old
+cemetery opening out of this chapel, which was built in the fourteenth
+century with the intention of adorning it with frescoes in imitation
+of the Campo Santo at Pisa. The double cloister seen against a
+background of cypresses and firs, above which rises the northern side
+of the Basilica, form a pretty group of buildings, and can be better
+enjoyed now than in former days, when the bones of Assisan nobles and
+franciscan friars were piled in the open galleries.
+
+The Basilica of San Francesco became the burial place, not only of
+some of the saint's immediate followers, but also of many
+distinguished personages. The large stone tomb at the end of the
+church is always pointed out as that of "Ecuba," Queen of Cyprus, who
+is said to have come to Assisi in 1229 to give thanks for having been
+cured of an illness by the intercession of St. Francis, when she gave
+the porphyry vase full of ultramarine which is still to be seen,
+though now empty of its precious contents. She is said to have died in
+1240, and to have been buried in San Francesco. But this "Ecuba" is a
+mysterious person not to be found in the history of her country, which
+has led some writers to say that it is Iolanthe, the second wife of
+Frederick II, who lies here. It is one of those tombs common in the
+time of Giovanni Pisani, but bearing only a faint resemblance to his
+masterpiece in the Church of San Domenico in Perugia. "On one side,"
+says Vasari, in surprise at the novelty of the style, "the Queen,
+seated upon a chair, places her right leg over the left in a singular
+and modern manner, which position for a lady is ungraceful, and
+cannot be regarded as a suitable action for a royal monument."
+
+The tomb to the right was erected soon after 1479 in memory of Niccolo
+Specchi, an Assisan physician of renown attached to the persons of
+Eugenius IV, and Niccolo V.
+
+_Tomb of St. Francis._--Although it had always been supposed that St.
+Francis lay beneath the high altar, no one knew precisely the spot
+where Elias had hidden him. In the last centuries many attempts were
+made to find the tomb by driving galleries in every direction into the
+bed of rock on which the Basilica stands;[81] but all failed, until
+more energetic measures were taken in 1818. And after fifty nights of
+hard work, conducted with the greatest secrecy (it would seem as
+though the spirit of Elias still presided over the workers), below the
+high altar, encased in blocks of travertine taken from the Roman wall
+near the temple of Minerva, and fitted together neatly as those of an
+Etruscan wall, was found the sepulchral urn of St. Francis. It was
+evidently the same in which he had been laid in the Church of San
+Giorgio, untouched till that day. Round the skeleton were found
+various objects, placed, perhaps, by the Assisans, who in this seem to
+have followed the custom of their earliest ancestors, as offerings to
+the dead. There were several silver coins, amongst them some of Lucca
+of 1181 and 1208, and a Roman ring of the second century, with the
+figure of Pallas holding a Victory in her right hand engraved on a red
+cornelian. Five Umbrian bishops, four cardinals, numberless priests
+and archaeologists visited the spot to verify the truth of the
+discovery, and finally published the tidings far and wide, which
+brought greater crowds than ever to Assisi, and among them no less a
+personage than the Emperor Francis I, of Austria. Donations poured in
+for building a chapel beneath the Lower Church round the saint's tomb,
+and in six months the work was completed by Giuseppe Brizzi of Assisi.
+The citizens, in their zeal, decorated it with marble altars and
+statues, until the tradition treasured by the people of a hidden
+chapel below the Basilica and rivalling it in richness was almost
+realised, and they flocked down the dark staircases with lighted
+torches to witness the accomplishment of the legends weaved by their
+forefathers (see p. 136). It is a most impressive sight to attend mass
+here with the peasants in early morning ere they go forth to their
+work in the fields. Silently they kneel with bowed heads near the
+tomb, touching it now and again through the grating with their
+rosaries; the acolytes move slowly about the altar and the voices of
+the priests are hushed, for here at least all feel the solemnity of a
+religious rite. The candles burn dimly with a smoky flame, the
+sanctuary lamps cast a flickering red light upon the marble pavement
+and the walls cut out of the living rock, and with the darkness which
+seems to press around is the damp smell, reminding us that we are
+indeed in the very bowels of the Assisan mountain.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[73] There are only the most meagre scraps of information to rely upon
+as to the dates of Giotto's works at San Francesco, and it is needless
+here to enter into the endless discussion. One thing is obvious; the
+Assisan frescoes must have been executed before those at Padua which
+have always been assigned to 1306. In these pages we have sometimes
+followed the view held by Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle, sometimes
+that of Herr Thode, who appears to have studied the question with open
+eyes, but our final authority is M. Bernhard Berenson, who in a visit
+paid lately to Assisi was kind enough to point out many things which
+we should otherwise have passed by, and in the sequence of the
+frescoes by Giotto at San Francesco we have entirely followed his
+opinion.
+
+[74] For Simone Martini's Madonna and Saints between the two chapels
+of this transept, see p. 212. The portraits (?) of some of the first
+companions of St. Francis, painted beneath Cimabue's fresco, belong to
+the Florentine school. It would be vain to try and name them.
+
+[75] See Vasari, ed. Milanesi, vol. i. p. 426. (Sansoni Firenze.)
+
+[76] It is often supposed that Giotto took the theme of this fresco
+from the well-known lines of Dante referring to the mystical marriage
+of St. Francis to Poverty. But Dante wrote the xi. canto of the
+_Paradiso_ long after Giotto had left Assisi; both painter and poet
+really only followed the legend recounted by St. Bonaventure of how
+St. Francis met three women who saluted him on the plain of S. Quirico
+near Siena. These were Poverty, Charity and Obedience.
+
+[77] _Paradiso_, xi., Cary's translation.
+
+[78] This fact alone would disprove the idea that Giottino, who was
+born in 1324, could have been the author of these frescoes. Everything
+that cannot be attributed to other painters is put down as his work,
+so that we have many pictures and frescoes of totally different styles
+assigned to Giottino.
+
+[79] Some say this fresco represents the three youths begging St.
+Nicholas to pardon the consul who had condemned them to death, in
+which case it would come after the scene of the execution on the
+opposite wall.
+
+[80] The tabernacle on the altar is the work of Giulio Danti, after a
+design by Galeazzo Alessi, both Perugians, in 1570.
+
+[81] How right Elias was to hide the body of St. Francis in so secure
+a place is shown by the various endeavours made by the Perugians to
+secure the holy relics for their town. In the fifteenth century they
+attempted, while at war with Assisi, to carry off the body by force,
+and failing, had recourse to diplomacy. They represented to Eugenius
+IV, that it would be far safer at Perugia, and begged him to entrust
+them with it. He denied his "dear sons'" request on the plea that the
+Assisans would be brought to the verge of despair and their city to
+ruin.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+_The Sienese Masters in the Lower Church. The Convent_
+
+   ... "Je donnerais pour ce caveau toutes les eglises de Rome."--H.
+   TAINE. _Voyages en Italie. Perouse et Assisi._
+
+
+THE CHAPEL OF ST. MARTIN[82]
+
+The best masters of Tuscany having, by the beginning of the thirteenth
+century, covered most of the walls of San Francesco with choice work,
+it now remained for Siena to send artists to complete their loveliness
+by effigies of calmly sweet Madonnas and saints whose gentle beauty
+seemed rightly fitted for their Umbrian surroundings.
+
+The first to come, probably very few years after Giotto had left, was
+Simone Martini, "the most lovable," Mr Berenson calls him, "of all the
+artists before the Renaissance."[83] He married Giovanna Memmi, a
+Sienese, whose brother Lippo Memmi often helped him in minor works;
+this may account for the confusion between the two, and why he is so
+often called by his brother-in-law's surname. One of the artist's
+claims to immortality, the highest, according to Vasari who was not
+partial to the Sienese, was the praise he won from Petrarch for the
+portraits he painted on more than one occasion of Madonna Laura.
+Simone's talents were sung by the "love-devoted" Tuscan poet who calls
+him "mio Simon," and in one perfect sonnet tells how he must surely
+have been in paradise and seen the loveliness of Madonna Laura, as he
+has drawn her features with such fidelity that all on earth must
+perforce acknowledge her beauty.
+
+The Chapel of St. Martin at Assisi is filled with such faces as
+Petrarch describes. It possesses, too, all the varied colour of a
+garden, only a garden not inhabited by earthly mortals, but by gentle
+knights and fairy kings wearing wonderful crowns of beaten gold, with
+cherubs' heads, flowers and moons upon their surface, and women who
+hold their lilies with caressing fingers. All gives way before his
+sense of the beautiful, the ornate and the charming, so that he
+creates a world apart of saints and angels with a feeling of
+remoteness about them which is one of the most striking features of
+his art. He loved all that was joyous; he depicted no tragic scenes;
+his saints have already won their crowns in heaven, his kings are
+conquerors, and around a death-bed the angels sing. He may sometimes
+fail as a story-teller, and his compositions do not always give the
+same sense of perfection as those of other stronger artists, but his
+very faults are lovable, and all can be forgiven for the exquisite
+finish of his paintings, which, in their brilliant colouring, are like
+a piece of old embroidery where design and hues have been woven in by
+patient fingers. "To convey his feeling for beauty and grace and
+splendour," says Mr Berenson, "Simone possessed means more than
+sufficient. He was a master of colour as few have been before him or
+after him. He had a feeling for line always remarkable, and once, at
+least, attaining to a degree of perfection not to be surpassed. He
+understood decorative effects as a great musician understands his
+instruments."[84]
+
+It is a little difficult to find out where Simone begins his legend of
+St. Martin, as he seems to have fitted in the different scenes just
+where he could, thinking, as was only right, more of the effect of
+decoration than of the sequence of the story. The two frescoes on the
+left wall refer to the well-known act of charity, when St. Martin, a
+young Lombard soldier serving in the army of the Emperor Constantine
+in Gaul, met, on a bitter winter's day, a beggar outside the gates of
+Amiens, and having nothing but the clothes he wore divided his cloak
+with the poor man. It is not one of Simone's pleasing compositions;
+far better is the next where Christ appears to the saint in a dream,
+wearing the cloak he had given in charity and saying to the angels who
+surround him: "Know ye who hath thus arrayed me? My servant Martin,
+though yet unbaptised, hath done this." The face of the young saint is
+very calm and palely outlined against his golden aureole as he lies
+asleep, clasping his throat gently with one hand. With what patience
+has Simone drawn the open-work of the sheets, the pattern on the
+counterpane, the curtain about the bed; no detail has been passed
+over. And who can forget his angels, the profile of one, the thick
+waving hair of another, and the grand pose of the standing figure, a
+little behind Christ, whose head is poised so stately upon a
+well-moulded neck.
+
+  [Illustration: THE KNIGHTHOOD OF ST. MARTIN BY SIMONE MARTINI
+  (D. ANDERSON--_photo_)]
+
+Exactly opposite are two scenes belonging to the early times of the
+saint's life when he was yet a soldier. In one the Emperor Constantine
+is giving him his sword, while an attendant buckles on the spurs of
+knighthood; here also, as in most of the frescoes, we pick out single
+figures to dwell on, such as the youth with a falcon on his wrist,
+whose profile is clearly outlined yet tender, with that pale
+red-golden tinge over the face by which Simone always charms us.
+Remarkable for grace and motion is the man playing on the mandoline,
+with a sad dreamy face, who seems to sway to the sounds of his own
+music; whilst almost comic is the player on the double pipes, with his
+curious headgear and tartan cloak.
+
+The next scene is divided by a rocky ridge, behind which is seen the
+army of the Gauls, who, by the way, have Assisan lions on their
+shields. St. Martin, after refusing to accept his share of the
+donations to the soldiers, declares his intention of leaving the army
+to become a priest, and when accused of cowardice by the Emperor, he
+offers to go forth and meet the enemy without sword or shield. Simone
+pictures him as he steps forth upon the perilous enterprise, holding
+the cross and pointing to the sky, as he refuses the helmet held out
+to him by the Emperor. Next day, says the legend, the Gauls laid down
+their arms, having submitted to the word of St. Martin who was then
+allowed to quit the world for the religious life.
+
+On the opposite wall, above the apparition of Christ with the cloak,
+we see St. Martin no longer in soldier's garb, but as the holy Bishop
+of Tours. The saint has fallen into a reverie whilst saying mass, and
+in vain a priest tries to rouse him by laying a hand upon his shoulder
+for his eyes remain closed, and the kneeling priest waits patiently
+with the book of the Gospels upon his knee. Simone never surpassed the
+dignity, the religious feeling, the quiet repose and ease expressed in
+the figure of St. Martin; while he has kept the scene as simple as one
+of Giotto's frescoes, thus making it the most perfect among these
+compositions. To the left is a much ruined picture of the restoration
+of a child to life through the prayers of the saint, who was preaching
+at Chartres. Among a crowd of people one figure, with a Florentine
+headgear such as Andrea del Castagno paints, stands clearly out; below
+a small child can be discerned stretching out little hands towards the
+kneeling bishop.
+
+Above this again, almost too high to be clearly seen, is the death of
+St. Hilary of Poitiers, at which St. Martin assisted. One of the
+mourners has a mantle of turquoise blue, a beautiful piece of colour
+like the sky seen through the arches of the Gothic windows.
+
+On the other wall, over the fresco where St. Martin receives
+knighthood, is recorded the legend of how "as he went to the church on
+a certain day, meeting a poor man naked, he gave him his inner robe,
+and covered himself as he best might with his cope. And the
+archdeacon, indignant, offering him a short and narrow vestment, he
+received it humbly, and went up to celebrate mass. And a globe of fire
+appeared above his head, and when he elevated the host, his arms being
+exposed by the shortness of the sleeves, they were miraculously
+covered with chains of gold and silver, suspended on them by
+angels."[85]
+
+The next picture, which is very ruined, represents the visit of St.
+Martin to the Emperor Valentinian, who, because he had rudely kept his
+seat in his presence, suddenly found it to be on fire, and, as the
+legend says, "he burnt that part of his body upon which he sat,
+whereupon, being compelled to rise, contrite and ashamed, he embraced
+Martin, and granted all that he required of him."
+
+Above this is the death of St. Martin, with a graceful flight of
+angels hovering over the bier singing as they prepare to carry his
+soul to heaven. Very fine is the fresco in the lunette of the
+entrance, where Cardinal Gentile, in his franciscan habit, is kneeling
+before the saint who bends forward to raise him from so humble a
+position. But in the single figures of saints, in the arch of this
+chapel, standing like guardian deities within their Gothic niches,
+Simone rivals greater artists in grace and strange beauty. In honour
+of the franciscan donor the chief franciscan saints are depicted
+beside two others of universal fame. St. Francis and St. Anthony of
+Padua, and below them St. Catherine of Alexandria and St. Mary
+Magdalen; on the other side, St. Louis, King of France and St. Louis,
+Bishop of Toulouse, and below them St. Clare and St. Elisabeth of
+Hungary. Nowhere has St. Clare received so true an interpretation of
+her gentle saintliness as in this painting by Simone, and he has
+surpassed his other works in the exquisite drawing of the hand which
+holds her habit to one side. It would seem as though in these saints
+he had attained the limits of his power of expressing types of pure
+beauty, were it not for the half figures in the embrasures of the
+window of such finish and subtle charm as to haunt us like some strain
+of long remembered music. There is a bishop in a cope of creamy white
+with gold embroidery, a hermit with a long brown beard, and saints who
+calmly pray with clasped hands. The broad white band of pale shadowed
+fur is low enough to show the graceful line of the neck of the young
+saint in the left hand window, his hair tinged with pale red and his
+face so fair as to seem a shadow upon the wall, coming and going in
+the play of light.
+
+So enthralling is the study of the frescoes that it is possible to
+leave the chapel without noticing the stained-glass windows, perhaps
+the loveliest in the church where all are lovely. They seem to belong
+to the same epoch as the paintings, and in one or two instances a
+figure may have been inspired by them, such as the angels with sword
+and shield who resemble Simone's angels in the upper part of the
+fresco of St. Martin's death. Cardinal Gentile was in all probability
+the donor of these as well as of the chapel, for he is represented in
+the central window kneeling before St. Martin, who is in full
+episcopals. These windows are dazzling; there are warriors in red and
+green, saints standing against circles of cream-tinted leaves, St.
+Jerome in magenta-coloured vestments harmonising strangely with the
+crimson of his cardinal's hat; and St. Anthony of Padua in violet
+shaded with paler lights as on the petals of a Florentine iris. A
+saint in white is placed against a scarlet background, another in pale
+china blue against a sky of deep Madonna blue, and all these colours
+lie side by side like masses of jewels of every shade.
+
+On leaving we find to the left of the papal throne a small chapel
+ornamented only by a window which has an apostle standing in a plain
+Gothic niche, the ruby red and tawny yellow of his mantle making a
+brilliant patch of colour in this dark corner of the church. The head
+is modern, but the figure, the circular pattern beneath, and the right
+half of the window with five medallions, are, according to Herr Thode,
+the oldest pieces of coloured glass in the lower church.
+
+Just above the papal throne is a handsomely worked ambo in red marble
+and mosaic, forming a kind of pulpit from which many illustrious
+people have preached, among them St. Bonaventure and St. Bernardine of
+Siena. In the recess a Florentine artist of the fourteenth century has
+painted the Coronation of the Virgin, a fresco worthy of its beautiful
+setting; and there is a crucifixion and scenes from the martyrdom of
+St. Stanislaus of Poland by a follower of Pietro Lorenzetti, pupil of
+Simone Martini. St. Stanislaus was canonised in 1253 when Innocent IV,
+came to consecrate the Basilica, and upon this occasion a miracle took
+place which redounds to the honour of the saint. While Cardinal de
+Conti (afterwards Alexander IV,) was preaching, one of the capitals of
+a pillar above the pulpit fell upon the head of a woman in the
+congregation, and thinking she was dead, as she had sunk down without
+a groan, her neighbours covered her over with a cloak "so as not to
+disturb the solemnity of the occasion." But to their amazement when
+the sermon ended the woman rose up and gave thanks to St. Stanislaus,
+for the blow, far from doing her harm, had cured her of headaches to
+which she had been subject. The legend would long since have been
+forgotten, were it not that the capital which fell on that memorable
+day is still suspended by chains in the opposite corner of the nave,
+and often puzzles the visitor who does not know its history.
+
+Below the pulpit is a slab of red marble let into the wall with these
+simple words inscribed: "Hic jacet Jacoba sancta nobilisque romana,"
+by which the Assisans commemorated the burial place of Madonna Giacoma
+da Settesoli the friend of St. Francis, who after his death lived at
+Assisi and followed the rule of the Third order until she died in 1239
+(see p. 114).
+
+_Left Transept._--To Pietro Lorenzetti was given the work of
+decorating these walls with scenes from the Passion, and so far as
+completing the rich colour of the church be succeeded. But when
+studied as separate compositions they betray the weakness of an artist
+who, as Mr. Berenson remarks, "carries Duccio's themes to the utmost
+pitch of frantic feeling." Great prominence is given to the subject
+of the crucifixion where the vehement actions of the figures rather
+than the nobility of the types are pre-eminent. It may be of interest
+to some that the man on the white horse is said to be Gualtieri, Duke
+of Athens, the tyrant of Florence, whose arms Vasari says he
+discovered in the fresco which he describes as the work of Pietro
+Cavallini.
+
+A curious composition is that on the opposite wall where the disciples
+sit in awkward attitudes and the servants in the kitchen are seen
+cleaning the dishes while a dog hastily licks up the scraps. It would
+be difficult to know this represented a religious scene were it not
+for the large aureoles of the apostles. Nor has Pietro succeeded in
+giving solemnity to the scene of the Stigmata, where the strained
+position of St. Francis and the agitated movement of the Seraph
+partake of the general characteristics of these frescoes. But in his
+Madonna, St. Francis and St. John the Evangelist, below the
+crucifixion, Pietro Lorenzetti gives his very best and their faces we
+remember together with the saints of Simone Martini. Referring to this
+fresco M. Berenson says: "At Assisi, in a fresco by Pietro, of such
+relief and such enamel as to seem contrived of ivory and gold rather
+than painted, the Madonna holds back heart-broken tears as she looks
+fixedly at her child, who, Babe though he is, addresses her earnestly;
+but she remains unconsoled."[86]
+
+_Chapel of S. Giovanni Battista._[87]--Another lovely work by Pietro
+Lorenzetti is the triptych over the altar, the Madonna, St. Francis
+and St. John the Baptist, but here the action of the child leaning
+towards the Virgin and holding the end of her veil, is more caressing
+and suggestive of babyhood. Above are small heads of angels like those
+Pietro places in medallions round the frescoes in the south transept.
+This, and the panel picture over the altar in the opposite chapel,
+complete the works of the Sienese school in Assisi. The Umbrian school
+is represented by a large and unsympathetic picture by Lo Spagna
+(dated 1526), which is however considered by local admirers of the
+painter to be his masterpiece. It is a relief to turn from his
+yellow-eyed saints and hard colouring to the windows of this chapel
+which are remarkable for their harmony and depth of tone.[88] The
+figures of the central window date from the second half of the
+thirteenth century, those of the left window are at least two
+centuries later.
+
+_The Sacristies._--These open out of St. Giovanni's Chapel. Both are
+ornamented with handsomely carved cupboards of the sixteenth century
+where the friars store their vestments and costly lace, and which once
+were full of gold and silver vessels amassed during many centuries.
+But often during mediaeval times of warfare the friars had to stand
+aside and see the sacristies sacked by the Perugians, or even the
+Assisans, when they must have envied the peace of mind of the first
+franciscans who, possessing nothing, could have no fear of
+robbers.[89]
+
+Devoted as the citizens were to the memory of St. Francis they do not
+seem to have hesitated, when in want of money, to help themselves
+liberally to the things in his church. At one time when the Baglioni
+were besieging Assisi, her despot Jacopo Fiumi gathered the citizens
+about him, and in an eloquent harangue called upon them to rob the
+church at once before the enemy had entered the gates, lest the
+treasure should fall into the hands of the Perugians. So the
+sacristies were rifled, and with the proceeds Jacopo Fiumi rebuilt the
+walls and the palaces which had fallen to ruin during the incessant
+fighting of past years. The next plunderers were the soldiers of
+Napoleon, and it is a marvel that so many things still remain. A
+cupboard in the inner sacristy contains a beautiful cross of
+rock-crystal ornamented with miniatures in blue enamel brought by St.
+Bonaventure as a gift from St. Louis of France; there is also the
+second rule of St. Francis which was sanctioned by Honorius III. Even
+more precious is a small and crumpled piece of parchment, with a
+blessing written in the big child-like writing of St. Francis, which
+he gave to Brother Leo at La Vernia after he had received the
+Stigmata. On one side he wrote part of the Laudes Creatoris, upon the
+other the biblical blessing:
+
+     "_Benedicat tibi Dominus et custodiat te_:
+     _Ostendat faciem suam tibi et misereatur tui_:
+     _Convertat vultum suam ad te et de tibi pacem_":
+
+and then below:
+
+     "_Dominus benedicat te, Frate Leo._"
+
+Instead of the Latin, the saint signs with the Thau cross, which is of
+the shape of the mediaeval gallows, and may have been yet another way
+of showing his humility by humbling himself even to the level of
+malefactors. Many pages have been written about this relic; the line
+by Brother Leo in explanation below the signature of St. Francis:
+
+     "_Simili modo fecit istud signum Thau cum capite manu sua,_"
+
+has puzzled many people, but in a pamphlet by Mr Montgomery
+Carmichael[90] it has received a plausible translation. He thinks that
+_cum capite_ refers to the small knob at the top of the Thau, by which
+St. Francis meant to represent a malefactor's head; the line would
+read thus: "in like manner with his own hand he made a cross with a
+head," and not "with his own head," as some believe. Mr Carmichael
+thinks the curious mound out of which the cross rises is a rough
+drawing of La Vernia. Above the benediction, in neatly formed letters,
+Brother Leo has written a short account of the sojourn at the Sacred
+Mount and of the Vision of the Seraph. This relic has been mentioned
+in the archives of the convent since 1348, and is always carried in
+procession at the commencement of the feast of the "Perdono" on July
+31st.
+
+Almost more honoured by the faithful is the "Sacred Veil of the most
+Holy Virgin," which can only be exposed to the public in the presence
+of the Bishop of Assisi, and is shown in times of pilgrimage when the
+sacristy and church are full of men and women waiting for their turn
+to kiss the holy relic.
+
+The picture over the door, painted by Giunta Pisano (?) is always
+pointed out as a portrait of St. Francis, but as the painter's first
+visit to Assisi was in 1230 he can only have seen the body of the
+saint borne to its last resting-place in the Basilica, and even that
+is doubtful when we remember with what secrecy the burial was
+performed. Here the face is pointed and emaciated, with a curious look
+in the eyes as though Giunta had desired to record his blindness. The
+figure is surrounded by small scenes from the miracles of St. Francis,
+performed during his lifetime and at his tomb in San Giorgio. But
+though in the so-called portraits of the saint, the artists think more
+of representing him as the symbol of asceticism and sanctity than of
+aiming at giving a true likeness, both this picture and a fresco
+painted in 1216 at Subiaco when the saint stayed there on his way to
+Spain, are not very dissimilar from the graphic description left us by
+Celano. He tells us that St. Francis "was rather below the middle stature
+with a small round head and a long pinched face, a full but narrow
+forehead and candid black eyes of medium size, his hair likewise was
+black; the brows were straight, the nose well-proportioned, thin and
+straight, the ears erect but small, and the temples flat; his speech
+was kindly, yet ardent and incisive; his voice powerful, sweet, clear
+and sonorous; his teeth were regular, white and set close; his lips
+thin and mobile, his beard was black and scant, his neck thin, his
+shoulders square; the arms were short, the hands small with long
+fingers and almond-shaped nails, his legs were thin, his feet small,
+his skin delicate, and he was very thin...."
+
+  [Illustration: BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF THE BASILICA AND CONVENT OF SAN
+  FRANCESCO, FROM A DRAWING MADE IN 1820]
+
+_Right Transept._[91]--On the walls between the Chapels of the
+Sacramento and of St. Maria Maddalena, Simone Martini has left some of
+his loveliest work in the half figures of franciscan saints he places
+near the Madonna. These are St. Francis, St. Louis of Toulouse, St.
+Elizabeth of Hungary, St. Clare clothed in the habit of her order,
+always to be recognised when painted by Simone by her heavy plaits of
+hair, St. Anthony of Padua with the lily, St. Louis of France with a
+crown of _fleur-de-lis_, and upon the right of the Virgin, a noble
+saint who may be Helen the mother of King Louis, as she too holds a
+sceptre with the lily of France on the top. Never had saints so
+majestic a queen as Simone's Madonna. The subdued greens and tawny
+reds of their mantles and their auburn hair look most beautiful
+against the gold ground which shines with dull light about them. Each
+of their aureoles bears a different pattern in raised _gesso_; a
+garland of flowers, a circle of human heads, suns, a tracery of roses
+and ivy, or yet again another of oak leaves. After Giotto's Allegories
+and the frescoes in San Martino, these saints are by far the loveliest
+things in San Francesco, and as they look towards us, ethereal, like a
+faint moon on a misty night, they seem the very incarnation of
+mediaeval faith. Dante created women such as Matilda, who sings to him
+in Purgatory as she is picking flowers on a woodland river's edge, and
+Simone paints them and conveys their spirit in the faces of St. Clare
+and St. Elizabeth.
+
+
+_The Convent_
+
+It is natural to think that the Basilica and Convent built under the
+guidance of Elias was as we see it now in its full magnificence of
+chapels, porch, colonnades and cloisters. Certainly the essential form
+of the building has not been altered, but in the early days it stood
+isolated from the town, surrounded by such rocks as jut out among the
+grass in the ravine outside Porta S. Pietro, and approached by a
+drawbridge which made it resemble, even more than it does now, a
+feudal stronghold guarding the Umbrian valley. Later on, as the life
+of the place centred ever more round the church of the saint, the
+citizens no longer built their houses near San Rufino or below the
+castle, but close to San Francesco, until a second town sprang up
+where once were only rough mountain pastures. It is still possible to
+form an idea of how it looked by following round the base of the hill
+by the Tescio, whence a wonderful and unique view of the northern side
+of church and convent is obtained (see Appendix). Assisi lies hidden,
+and standing high above us, shutting out the view of the valley, is
+San Francesco; not the building with great arches we are familiar
+with, rising high above the vineyards, but a castle, seen clearly
+defined and strong against the sky, whose bastions clasp the hill top
+as powerfully as a good rider bestrides his horse. Oak copses cover
+the slopes from the convent wall straight down to the banks of the
+Tescio, where little mills are set above deep pools of emerald green
+water and narrow canals fringed by poplar trees. The minute detail of
+the landscape in this deep ravine gives a curious feeling that we are
+walking in the background of one of Pier della Francesca's
+pictures--even to the distant view of low-lying hills where the
+torrent makes the sudden bend round the mountain edge; and the
+contrast is strange between it and the fortress-church upon the dark
+hill, where deep shadows lie across it and lurk within the crannies of
+its traceries in the bay windows of the chapels and in the depths of
+jutting stones. Such was the massive building "Jacopo" planned to
+stand upon the mountain ridge, as much a part of the rocks and the red
+earth as the cypresses which crown the summit. And in the midst, but
+on the southern side, he placed, as if to balance the rest, a square
+and boldly conceived bell-tower rising high above the church.[92]
+At the time it was the wonder of the Assisans, who boasted that for
+beauty as well as for solidity it could be counted among the first,
+not in Italy only, but in Europe. Bartolomeo of Pisa, came to cast one
+of the big bells, and together with his own name he inscribed those of
+Elias, Gregory IX, and Frederick II. On another bell, which has been
+recast, was graven a delightful couplet informing the faithful of the
+many services which consecrated bronze could render to the country
+round.
+
+  [Illustration: SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE TESCIO]
+
+         "Sabbatha pango, funera plango, fulgura frango:
+          Excito lentos, domo cruentos, dissipo ventos."
+     ("I ring in Sunday, I lament for the dead, the lightning I break,
+     I hurry the sluggards, I vanquish the wicked, the winds I disperse.")
+
+To the time of Elias also belongs the fine entrance to the Upper
+Church, where the Guelph lion and the eagle of Frederick II, record
+the liberality of both parties towards the building of the church,
+while the four animals round the wheel window seem to show that
+"Jacopo," notwithstanding his marked love for pure Gothic
+architecture, could not quite forget the strange but fascinating
+beasts of Lombard facades.
+
+  [Illustration: STAIRCASE LEADING FROM THE UPPER TO THE LOWER PIAZZA OF
+  SAN FRANCESCO]
+
+One friar in the fifteenth century inherited some of the enthusiasm of
+Elias for the basilica; this was Francesco Nani, the General of the
+franciscans, known as Francesco Sansone because his patron, Sixtus IV,
+is said to have addressed him with these words in allusion to his
+energy and strength of character, "Tu es fortissimus Samson." His
+name is found upon the beautiful stalls of the Upper Church, and it
+was he who superintended the laying out of the upper piazza, connected
+with the lower one by a long flight of stairs. It may also have been
+at this time that the _loggie_ of San Francesco were built for the
+purpose of erecting booths during the festival of the "Pardon of St.
+Francis." Certainly it was chiefly at his expense that Baccio Pintelli
+(1478) built the handsome entrance door and porch to the Lower Church,
+which in olden times was entered by a small door close to the
+campanile. The architect fitted his work admirably into a corner of
+the building, completing with clustered columns of pink marble, wheel
+window, trefoiled arches and stone traceries, the scheme of colour and
+the perfect proportions for which San Francesco is so remarkable. The
+doors of carved wood, darkened now and of such massive workmanship as
+to resemble bronze, were made in 1546 by Niccolo da Gubbio, who has
+carefully commemorated the legend of St. Francis and the wolf of
+Gubbio in one of the panels to the left. Sansone also commissioned
+the doorway of what is now the entrance to the friars' convent a year
+after the porch was finished, then it was only a small chapel, built
+by the members of the Third order when St. Bernardine of Siena revived
+the religious enthusiasm of the people. The Assisan artist placed a
+bas-relief of the saint in the arch above the door, and it is still
+called "la porta di San Bernardino."
+
+None should leave Assisi, not even those who only hurry over for the
+day, without visiting the convent, which recalls an eastern building
+from the whiteness of its great vaulted rooms, long corridors and
+arcaded courtyards when seen against the bluest of summer skies.[93]
+Then from the cool and spacious convent, a place to linger in upon a
+hot day in August, we step out into the open colonnade which skirts
+the building to the south, makes a sharp turn west, and then juts out
+at the end, facing south again. This last portion was added by
+Cardinal Albornoz in 1368, and goes by the name of the _Calcio_. But
+two centuries later the foundations were found to be insecure, and
+Sixtus IV, strengthened it by a bastion, which looks solid enough to
+resist even the havoc of an earthquake. The Pope was a great
+benefactor of the convent, and the friars placed his statue in a niche
+in the bastion, where he sits, his hand raised in benediction, on a
+papal throne overlooking the valley. From the rounded arches of rough
+stone, turned by storm and sunshine to russet-red, pink and yellow, we
+look out upon one of the most beautiful and extensive views in Umbria.
+To the right is Perugia standing out almost aggressively on the hill
+top; opposite, on a separate spur which divides the valley of Spoleto
+from that of the Tiber, Bettona and Montefalco hang upon peaks like
+the nests of birds in trees, and beyond are Spoleto, Trevi and Narni,
+nearer again Spello, and the domes of Foligno in the plain, with a
+host of small villages near. All the Umbrian world lies before us from
+the convent of San Francesco.
+
+  [Illustration: SAN FRANCESCO FROM THE PONTE S. VITTORINO]
+
+Many weary people besides the popes came to rest here in early times,
+and one mediaeval warrior, Count Guido of Montefeltro, the great leader
+of the Ghibellines, laid down his arms and left his castle at Urbino
+in the year 1296, to pass his last days as a friar doing penance
+within the peaceful shelter of San Francesco for a long life of
+intrigue and bloodshed. He prayed by day, for at night they say he
+stood gazing out of his window, one of those we see above the walled
+orchard of the monks, watching the stars and attempting to divine the
+mysteries and destinies he read there, exceeding even the superstition
+of the age by his faith in the laws of astrology. But his meditations
+and careful preparation for a holy death were suddenly disturbed, and
+he found himself once more plunged into the whirl of Italian politics
+and intrigue. War raged between Pope Boniface VIII, a Gaetani, and the
+powerful family of the Colonna who braved his excommunications, and,
+when their Roman palaces were burnt, fled to their strongholds in the
+country. Many of these fell into the hands of the papal troops, but
+Penestrino, their principal fief, resisted all attacks and the Pope
+was nearly defeated when, remembering the old soldier Count Guido
+known to be "more cunning than any Italian of his time, masterly alike
+in war and in diplomacy," he hastened to ask his counsel. The story is
+recounted by Dante, who could not forgive the Ghibelline chieftain for
+coming to the assistance of the Pope.
+
+Boniface, seeking to silence the scruples of the friar, promised to
+absolve him from all sin, even before committal, if only he would tell
+him how to act so "that Penestrino cumber earth no more." Guido, whose
+subtlety had not deserted him in the cloister, gave an answer which,
+while it ensured success to the papal arms, stamped him as a man of
+such deceit and treachery that Dante placed him in the eighth gulf of
+hell, among the evil counsellors eternally surrounded by flaming
+tongues of fire.
+
+     "Then, yielding to the forced arguments,
+     Of silence as more perilous I deem'd,
+     And answer'd: 'Father! since thou washest me
+     Clear of that guilt wherein I now must fall,
+     Large promise with performance scant, be sure
+     Shall make thee triumph in thy lofty seat.'"[94]
+
+Besides Count Guido and the popes who, finding the large and airy
+rooms of the convent a convenient summer resort, were constant
+visitors at Assisi, it can show a fine list of royal visitors. Among
+them is the Queen of Sweden who, in 1655, came escorted by Papal
+Nuncios, foreign ambassadors and cavalry, to pray at the tomb of St.
+Francis. The Assisans sent out their best carriages with horses ridden
+by postillions to meet her, adorned their palaces with flags and
+damask hangings, and rang all the bells as she approached the
+Basilica. "The Queen is called Christina," a chronicler tells us; "she
+is aged twenty-nine, is very learned, being able to write in eleven
+languages; she is small but very comely.... One hundred and fifty beds
+were prepared in the convent and beautiful it was to see the numerous
+suite and the pages of the nobles."
+
+  [Illustration: A FRIAR OF THE MINOR CONVENTUAL ORDER OF ST. FRANCIS]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It strikes the visitor to Assisi as strange that the black-robed
+friars in charge of the Basilica are so unlike the franciscans with
+whom everyone is familiar, and it may be well to give a few facts
+relating to the many divisions in the Order which, as we have seen,
+began already to change in the time of Elias. In 1517 a portion of the
+brethren, desiring a mitigation of their rule, obtained from Leo X, a
+dispensation and received the title of Friars Minor Conventuals
+with the permission to choose their own Minister General. Their dress
+is shown in the illustration. Those who kept to the rule more nearly
+approaching to that of St. Francis, like those of Sta. Maria degli
+Angeli, the Carceri and San Damiano, were called Friars Minor of the
+Observance, or Observants, and take precedence over the others,
+enjoying the privilege of electing the "Minister General of the whole
+order of the Friars Minor and successor of St. Francis." In 1528,
+Matteo Baschi, an observant, instituted a new branch called the
+Capucins, because of their long pointed capuce, whom he inspired with
+the desire to lead a hermit's life in solitary places, preaching to
+the people but once in the year. They have deserted their hermitages
+and are a very popular order in Italy, devoting themselves especially
+to preaching and hearing confessions, and form quite a distinct family
+from the rest. The Basilica at Assisi no longer belongs to the
+Conventuals, as after the union of Italy it was declared to be a
+national monument. The Government also took possession of the convent
+as a school for boys, leaving only a small portion for the reduced
+number of friars to inhabit. They went to law, and the judge
+pronounced the convent to be the property of the Holy See which had
+never ceased to exercise jurisdiction over it; but a proviso was made
+that the school was to remain in its present quarters until the Pope
+or the franciscans should erect a suitable building for it in another
+part of the town. As much money is required for so large an edifice
+and sites are not so easily procured, it seems probable that for many
+years the sound of boys at play will be heard in the convent walls
+instead of the slow footsteps of silent friars.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[82] The donor of this chapel was Gentile de Monteflori, a franciscan,
+created cardinal in 1298 by Boniface VIII.
+
+[83] Simone was born at Siena in 1283, and died at Avignon in 1344. He
+belonged to the school of Duccio, though influenced to some degree by
+his contemporary Giotto, whose work at Assisi he had full opportunity
+to study.
+
+[84] _Central Italian Painters of the Renaissance_, B. Berenson, p.
+47.
+
+[85] _Sketches of the History of Christian Art_, by Lord Lindsay, p.
+134, vol. i.
+
+[86] _The Central Italian Painters of the Renaissance._ Bernhard
+Berenson, p. 48.
+
+[87] Built by the Orsini brothers, the founders of the Chapel del
+Sacramento, in the beginning of the fourteenth century.
+
+[88] It is curious that the early Umbrian painters had so little share
+in the decoration of the franciscan Basilica, the only other picture
+of the school is the one in the Chapel of St. Anthony the Abbot, and a
+fresco by some scholar of Ottaviano Nelli on the wall near the
+entrance of the Lower Church.
+
+[89] Not only had the friars to guard their own things, but also the
+vast treasures of the Popes who, especially during their sojourn at
+Avignon, found San Francesco a convenient store-house. See on p. 20
+for the story of how these goods were stolen by the citizens and the
+penalty this brought upon the town.
+
+[90] _La Benedizione di San Francesco_, Livorno, 1900.
+
+[91] See chapter vi. p. 171 for description of the frescoes here, and
+of those above the altar. For Cimabue's Madonna on the right wall of
+the Transept see chapter v. p. 155.
+
+[92] In 1529 the campanile, which rather gives the impression of a
+watch-tower, was used by Captain Bernardino da Sassoferrato, as a sure
+place of refuge when the Prince of Orange entered Assisi with his
+victorious army. From its heights he kept his enemy at bay for three
+days, and finally escaped to Spello leaving the city a prey to another
+despot.
+
+[93] Open to visitors at two o'clock.
+
+[94] Cary's translation. Dante, _Inferno_, canto xxvii.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+_Giotto's Legend of St. Francis in the Upper Church_
+
+   "What, therefore, Giotto gave to art was, before all things,
+   vitality."--J. A. SYMONDS. _Renaissance in Italy._
+
+
+Giotto in the Lower Church had felt his way towards the full
+expression of his genius; succeeding so well in the four Allegories
+that he was chosen to illustrate the life of St. Francis, withheld, as
+we have seen, from all former artists, while Cimabue was to hear the
+poet's praise of his pupil, "Ora ha Giotto il grido." The task
+undertaken by the young painter, already a master at twenty-five, was
+almost superhuman, and certainly unique in the career of any artist;
+for whereas the pictorial treatment of the New Testament had been
+attempted by many during several centuries, Giotto was destined to
+invent forms for the whole franciscan cycle with such perfection that
+no succeeding artist has varied his formula. It remains a wonderful
+achievement, and the noble manner of its accomplishment proved him to
+be, as Mr Roger Fry expresses it, "the supreme epic painter of the
+world."
+
+If St. Francis was fortunate in having his life related by so
+admirable a story-teller, Giotto also owed something to the early
+chroniclers who seeing, perhaps unconsciously, the extraordinary
+poetry and the dramatic incidents in the saint's career, had
+faithfully recorded them in simple and beautiful language. So far the
+work was ready for Giotto, even the exact scenes were chosen for him
+to illustrate, but the problem how to unfold and make them familiar to
+the faithful by simple means, and yet not to lose the dignity and
+charm of the theme, remained for him to solve; and the representation,
+by a few figures, of a whole dramatic incident in so vivid a manner
+could only have succeeded in the hands of a great master of the
+fourteenth century. It is nearly certain that Giotto used St.
+Bonaventure's _Life of St. Francis_, finished in 1263 and founded,
+with but few additions, upon _The Three Companions_ and Celano's first
+and second _Life of St. Francis_. Though written with a certain charm
+of style and though it lacks the ring of those early pages, in which
+St. Francis becomes known to us in such a way that we forget he lived
+seven hundred years ago; and although the various incidents of his
+life are presented like so many beautiful pictures, there is the
+feeling always that St. Bonaventure was writing about a saint already
+honoured upon earth and in heaven, and not of the man whom all loved
+as the "Poverello d'Assisi." But this legend served Giotto's purpose;
+and a knowledge of the words he followed being necessary in order to
+see where he simply kept to the franciscan legend, and where he
+penetrated the true spirit of the saint's life and its dramatic
+interest, we quote from it at some length, although many of the main
+facts have already been treated of in a preceding chapter.[95]
+
+I. _St. Francis honoured by the Simpleton._--(We begin on the right
+wall by the High Altar, and follow straight on to the opposite side,
+the legend unfolding as in the pages of a book.)
+
+   "A certain man of great simplicity dwelt in those days in Assisi,
+   who, by virtue of knowledge divinely infused, whenever he met
+   Francis in the street, would take off his mantle, and spread it
+   upon the ground before him, declaring that he did so because he
+   was a man worthy of all honour and reverence, who should shortly
+   perform great works and marvellous deeds...."[96]
+
+The bare facts are here narrated which Giotto does not alter, but he
+puts such life into the scene that we feel he might have been present
+when the simpleton cast himself at Francis' feet and astonished the
+Assisans by his words. Attention is fixed upon the six people in the
+foreground. Two worthy citizens have just arrived in time to see the
+cloak being spread on the ground before Francis, and to hear the
+prophetic words; and as they turn to each other, one pointing to the
+scene, the other raising his hand with a movement of surprise, we seem
+to hear their carping criticisms upon the brilliant youth who,
+although he spent his time in singing and carousals, was one day to
+bring renown to their city. The young Francis, ever heedless of
+worldly comment, is stepping lightly on to the cloak, with a movement
+of surprise that he should receive such honour. All have the
+Florentine headgear, but the head of St. Francis is covered by a small
+white cap fitting close behind the ears, just showing his hair in
+front, and we feel that Giotto would have left him so, but the
+franciscans, ever to and fro in the church to see that the story was
+painted as they liked, insisted upon an aureole being added. As much
+glory for St. Francis they cried, as gold and money can give him. So
+Giotto, who disliked unnecessary decorations, was made to put an
+aureole above the white cap, larger than any we have ever seen. But
+take away the halo and we should yet know which of the figures is the
+saint, for he stands a little apart from his two noble friends with
+ermine lined cloaks who talk with hands clasped together, and is
+perhaps already wondering about the destiny which awaits him and of
+which he was unaware, "for as yet he understood not the great purposes
+of God towards him."
+
+Besides the human interest of the frescoes it is a delightful task to
+study the architecture in each scene, for here, in the Upper Church,
+Giotto has built a whole city of little pink houses with balconies,
+towers and turrets, of exquisite Gothic basilicas, of temples and
+gabled thrones. His priests sit within palaces full of lancet windows
+and pointed arches, the groined roofs, as in the Assisan Church,
+ablaze with myriads of stars. What love he had for dainty ornaments,
+simple, nay almost severe in outline, but perfectly finished; and he
+always likes to show the blue sky overhead, or at least peeping
+through one of the windows, making the marble seem more lustrous and
+creamy white. Would that all Florence had been built by him.
+
+2. _St. Francis giving his cloak to a poor Knight._
+
+   "Going forth one day, as was his wont, in apparel suited to his
+   state, he met a certain soldier of honour and courage, but poor
+   and vilely clad; of whose poverty, feeling a tender and sorrowful
+   compassion, he took off his new clothes and gave them to the poor
+   man-at-arms."
+
+None are there to witness the kind action of the young saint who, like
+another St. Martin, has dismounted to give his mantle to the poor man
+in a ravine near a little town enclosed by walls, a church spire
+rising upon the opposite hill. Giotto must have been thinking of the
+small rock-set towns, with stunted trees growing outside their walls,
+in his Tuscan home in the Mugello when he painted this, instead of
+the Umbrian town, standing amid vineyards and cornfields above an open
+valley with winding rivers, whose church he was decorating. It is the
+only one of the series in which the landscape is an important part of
+the picture, in the others it is a mere accessory.
+
+3. _The Vision of St. Francis._
+
+   "On the following night, when he was asleep, the divine mercy
+   showed him a spacious and beautiful palace filled with arms and
+   military ensigns, all marked with the Cross of Christ to make
+   known to him that his charitable deed done to the poor soldier
+   for the love of the great King of heaven should receive an
+   unspeakable reward."
+
+It will be remembered that after this dream St. Francis started to
+join the army of Walter de Brienne, having wrongly interpreted the
+vision, which in reality symbolised the army he was eventually to lead
+in the service of the Pope (see p. 44). This is, perhaps, the least
+successful of the frescoes; probably the subject did not appeal
+strongly to the painter (he only seems to have enjoyed inventing the
+colonnaded palace with its trefoil windows) and also, as Mr Ruskin
+explains: "Giotto never succeeded, to the end of his days, in
+representing a figure lying down, and at ease. It is one of the most
+curious points in all his character. Just the thing which he could
+study from nature without the smallest hindrance, is the thing he
+never can paint; while subtleties of form and gesture, which depend
+absolutely on their momentariness, and actions in which no model can
+stay an instant, he seizes with infallible accuracy."[97]
+
+4. _St. Francis praying before the Crucifix in San Damiano._
+
+   "As he lay prostrate before a crucifix he was filled with great
+   spiritual consolation, and gazing with tearful eyes upon the
+   holy cross of the Lord, he heard with his bodily ears a voice
+   from the crucifix, which said thrice to him: 'Francis, go and
+   build up My house, which as thou seest, is falling into ruin.'"
+
+Unfortunately this fresco is much faded and in parts peeled off; this,
+combined with the representation of a ruined church, gives a curious
+effect of total destruction, as if an earthquake had passed over the
+land. The figure of the saint, just visible, and his attitude of
+earnest prayer is very charming.
+
+  [Illustration: ST. FRANCIS RENOUNCES THE WORLD
+  (D. ANDERSON--_photo_)]
+
+5. _St. Francis renounces the world._
+
+   "And now his father, ... brought this son, ... before the Bishop
+   of Assisi to compel him to renounce in his hands all his
+   inheritance.... As soon, therefore, as he came into the Bishop's
+   presence, without a moment's delay, neither waiting for his
+   father's demand nor uttering a word himself, he laid aside all
+   his clothes, and gave them back to his father.... With marvellous
+   fervour he then turned to his father, and spoke thus to him in
+   the presence of all: 'Until this hour I have called thee my
+   father on earth; from henceforth, I may say confidently, my
+   Father Who art in heaven.'"
+
+This, perhaps the most interesting of Giotto's frescoes, can be
+compared with the one in Sta. Croce at Florence on the same subject,
+painted when time and labour had given greater strength to his
+genius. The Assisan scene is treated with more simplicity, and, if
+less perfect as a decorative scheme, possesses quite as much
+dramatic interest and vitality. A little block of pink houses on
+either side reminds us that we are outside the Bishop's palace in
+the Piazza S. Maria Maggiore, where the scene is said to have
+occurred. Of course all the Assisans have turned out to see how the
+quarrel between Bernardone and his son will end. They stand behind
+the irate father like a Greek chorus, while one, evidently a citizen
+of distinction from his ermine lined cloak and tippet, restrains
+Messer Pietro, who is throwing back his arm with the evident
+intention of striking his son. Francis' passion for repairing
+Assisan churches and ministering to the wants of the poor had proved
+a costly business to the thrifty merchant, who loved his money and
+had little sympathy with Assisan beggars (sojourners in Assisi may
+agree with him). Delightful are the two tiny children who with one
+hand clutch up their garments, full of stones to throw at St.
+Francis. The bishop is the calmest person there, turning to his
+priests he seems to say: "All is well, there is God the Father's
+hand in the sky (with a little patience it can be distinguished in
+the fresco), and we are sure to gain the day, spite of Pietro's
+angry words." And so he quietly folds his episcopal mantle around
+St. Francis, who from this moment becomes indeed the Child of
+heaven. It may seem strange, as Mr Ruskin truly observes, that St.
+Francis, one of whose virtues was obedience, should begin life by
+disobeying his father, but Giotto means to show that the young saint
+was casting off all worldly restraint in order to obey the Supreme
+Power, and the scene is a counterpart to Dante's lines referring to
+his marriage with the Lady Poverty.
+
+     "A dame, to whom none openeth pleasure's gate
+     More than to death, was, 'gainst his father's will,
+     His stripling choice: and he did make her his,
+     Before the spiritual court, by nuptial bonds,
+     And in his father's sight: from day to day,
+     Then loved her more devoutly."[98]
+
+6. _The dream of Innocent III._
+
+   "He saw in a dream the Lateran Basilica, now falling into ruin,
+   supported by the shoulders of a poor, despised, and feeble man.
+   'Truly,' said he, 'this is he who by his works and his teaching
+   shall sustain the Church of Christ.'"
+
+In the representations of this vision painted for Dominican churches,
+the Lateran is always supported by the two great founders, Francis and
+Dominic, who, in their different ways, helped Innocent in his
+difficult task of reforming the Church. Giotto shows his power and the
+advance art is making under his hand, in the figure of St. Francis,
+who with body slightly bent back and one hand on his hip, seems to
+support the great weight, while his feet are so firmly planted that
+there is no uncomfortable feeling of strain and only a sense of
+strength and security. Two men are seated by the bedside of the Pope,
+one is asleep while the other keeps watch, and in his slightly wearied
+attitude and the reposeful figure of the sleeper, Giotto's keen
+observation of the ordinary incidents of every day life is very
+apparent.
+
+7. _Innocent III, sanctions the Rule of St. Francis._
+
+   "He was filled with a great and special devotion and love for the
+   servant of God. He granted all his petitions, and promised to
+   grant him still greater things. He approved the Rule, gave him a
+   mission to preach penance, and granted to all the lay brothers in
+   the company of the servant of God to wear a tonsure smaller than
+   that worn by priests, and freely to preach the Word of God."
+
+Giotto, in his fresco, has to represent the most important event in
+the life of the saint--his arrival at the papal court when he comes
+face to face with one of the greatest of the Roman Pontiffs; and by
+the simplest possible means the scene is brought before us. Here are
+no crimson-robed cardinals, no gilded papal throne; the bishops
+grouped behind Innocent are hardly noticed, or even the brethren who,
+with hands clasped as though in prayer, press closely to their leader
+like a flock of sheep round their shepherd. The eye is so fixed upon
+the two central figures, that all else fades away. Giotto has seized
+the supreme moment when the Pope, having overcome his fear lest St.
+Francis should falter in a life of poverty and prove to be only
+another heretical leader of which Italy had already too many, is, with
+kingly gesture, giving the Umbrian penitent authority to preach
+throughout the land. St. Francis, holding out his hand to receive his
+simple Rule, now bearing the papal seals, looks up with steady gaze;
+he is the most humble among men kneeling at the feet of Rome's
+sovereign, but strong in love, in faith and in knowledge of the
+righteousness of his mission. M. Paul Sabatier has beautifully
+illustrated the meaning of Giotto when he writes: "On pourrait croire
+que le peintre avait trempe ses levres dans la coupe du Voyant
+Calabrais [Joachim de Flore] et qu'il a voulu symboliser dans
+l'attitude de ces deux hommes la rencontre des representants de deux
+ages de l'humanite, celui de la Loi et celui de l'Amour."
+
+8. _Vision of the Friars at Rivo-Torto._
+
+   "Now while the brethren abode in the place aforesaid, the holy
+   man went on a certain Saturday into the city of Assisi, for he
+   was to preach on the Sunday morning in the Cathedral Church. And
+   being thus absent in body from his children, and engaged in
+   devout prayer to God (as was his custom throughout the night), in
+   a certain hut in the canon's garden, about midnight, whilst some
+   of the brethren were asleep and others watching in prayer, a
+   chariot of fire, of marvellous splendour, was seen to enter the
+   door, and thrice to pass hither and thither through the house;
+   ..."
+
+Giotto's was not a nature to find much enjoyment in the portrayal of
+such events as saints being carried aloft in fiery chariots, and in
+dealing with this miracle he dedicated all his power to representing
+the astonishment of the brethren who witness the vision at Rivo-Torto.
+Two talk together and point to St. Francis being borne across the
+heavens by crimson horses, one hastens to awaken his companions who
+are huddled together in their hut like tired dogs asleep, and another
+starts from his slumbers to hear the wondrous news.
+
+9. _Vision of Brother Pacifico._
+
+   "This friar being in company with the holy man, entered with him
+   into a certain deserted church, and there, as he was praying
+   fervently he fell into an ecstacy, and amid many thrones in
+   heaven he saw one more glorious than all the rest, adorned with
+   precious stones of most glorious brightness. And marvelling at
+   the surpassing brightness of that throne, he began anxiously to
+   consider within himself who should be found worthy to fill it.
+   Then he heard a voice saying to him: 'This was the throne of one
+   of the fallen angels, and now it is reserved for the humble
+   Francis.'"
+
+With what devotion St. Francis, his hands crossed upon his breast,
+prays upon the steps of the altar, while the friar behind is intent on
+asking questions about the marvellous thrones he sees poised above his
+head. Nothing can exceed the grace of the wide-winged angel floating
+down to earth to record the humility of Francis, his garments slightly
+spread by his movement through the air.
+
+10. _St. Francis chases the Devils away from Arezzo._
+
+   "In order to disperse these seditious powers of the air, he sent
+   as his herald Brother Sylvester, a man simple as a dove, saying
+   to him: 'Go to the gates of the city, and there in the Name of
+   Almighty God command the demons by virtue of holy obedience, that
+   without delay they depart from that place....'"
+
+The main facts of the legend are followed closely in this fresco, but
+St. Bonaventure does not tell us how the miracle was performed, while
+Giotto, understanding the soul of Francis, paints him kneeling outside
+the gates of Arezzo praying with intense fervour for the salvation of
+the city. His faith is so strong that he does not even look up like
+Brother Sylvester, to see the demons flee away; some springing from
+off the chimneys, others circling above the towers, their bat-like
+wings outspread. The figure of Brother Sylvester is very fine, and the
+way he is lifting his tunic and stepping forward, as he stretches out
+one arm with a gesture of command towards the demons, could not be
+rendered with more ease and truth.
+
+11. _St. Francis and Brother Illuminatus before the Sultan of Egypt._
+
+   "When they had gone a little further, they met with a band of
+   Saracens, who, quickly falling upon them, like wolves upon a
+   flock of sheep, cruelly seized and bound the servants of God ...
+   having in many ways afflicted and oppressed them, they were ...
+   according to the holy man's desire, brought into the presence of
+   the Sultan. And being questioned by that prince whence and for
+   what purpose they had come ... the servant of Christ, being
+   enlightened from on high, answered him thus: 'If thou and thy
+   people will be converted to Christ I will willingly abide with
+   thee. But if thou art doubtful whether or not to forsake the law
+   of Mohamed for the faith of Christ, command a great fire to be
+   lighted, and I will go into it with thy priests, that it may be
+   known which faith should be held to be the most certain and the
+   most holy.' To whom the Sultan made answer: 'I do not believe
+   that any of my priests would be willing to expose himself to the
+   fire or to endure any manner of torment in defence of his faith.'
+   Then said the holy man: 'If thou wilt promise me for thyself and
+   thy people that thou wilt embrace the worship of Christ if I come
+   forth unharmed, I will enter the fire alone.' ... But the Sultan
+   answered that he dared not accept this challenge, because he
+   feared a sedition of the people."
+
+This subject, from its dramatic interest, appealed to Giotto, giving
+full scope to his powers, both as a story-teller, and as a painter
+with such genius for portraying dignity and nobility of character. The
+principal persons, the Sultan and St. Francis, are here clearly placed
+before us as Giotto wished us to conceive them, and how correctly he
+realised their characters we learn from the chronicles of the time.
+"We saw," writes Jacques de Vitry in one of his letters, "Brother
+Francis arrive, who is the founder of the Minorite Order; he was a
+simple man, without letters, but very lovable and dear to God as well
+as to men. He came while the army of the Crusaders was under
+Damietta, and was much respected by all." This is indeed the man
+depicted by Giotto in the slight figure of the preacher standing at
+the foot of the marble throne, so humble, yet full of that secret
+power which won even the Sultan's admiration. But though the story
+centres in St. Francis, the person Giotto wishes all to notice is the
+Sultan, who, far from being an ignorant heathen to be converted,
+conveys the idea of a most noble and kingly person, Malek Camel in
+short, known throughout the East as the "Perfect Prince." His mollahs
+had wished to kill St. Francis and his companion, and the fine answer
+he made was worthy of his high character. "Seigneurs," he said,
+addressing his visitors, "they have commanded me by Mahomet and by the
+law to have your heads cut off. For thus the law commands; but I will
+go against the order, or else I should render you bad guerdon for
+having risked death to save my soul."
+
+Giotto has chosen the most dramatic moment when St. Francis offers to
+go through the ordeal by fire with the mahommedan priests, to prove
+the power of the Christian God. With one look back upon the fire the
+mollahs gather their robes around them and hurriedly leave the
+Sultan's presence; St. Francis points towards the flames as though he
+were assuring the Sultan that they will not hurt him, while the friar
+behind gazes contemptuously after the retreating figures of the
+mollahs.
+
+Dante and Milton in their different ways were able to give us a vivid
+idea of fire, flame and heat, and so would Giotto have done had he
+expressed his ideas by words instead of in painting; but he was wise
+enough not to attempt it in his fresco, and so in lieu of a blaze of
+crimson flames we have only what looks like a stunted red cypress,
+realistic enough to make us understand the story without drawing our
+attention away from the main interest of the scene. In this fresco we
+are again reminded of the simple methods, grand and impressive by
+their very straightforwardness, by which he brings before us so
+strange a scene and accentuates the importance of an event in his own
+individual way.
+
+12. _Ecstasy of St. Francis._
+
+This legend is not recounted by St. Bonaventure, Celano, or in _The
+Three Companions_, but there is a tradition of how St. Francis one day
+in divine communion with God, was wrapt in ecstasy and his companions
+saw him raised from the ground in a cloud. All that is human in the
+scene Giotto has done as well as possible, but he evidently found it
+hard to realise how St. Francis would have looked rising up in a
+cloud, so he has devoted himself to rendering truthfully the
+astonishment of the disciples who witness the miracle.
+
+13. _The Institution of the Feast at Greccio._
+
+   "... in order to excite the inhabitants of Greccio to commemorate
+   the nativity of the Infant Jesus with great devotion, he
+   determined to keep it with all possible solemnity; and lest he
+   should be accused of lightness or novelty, he asked and obtained
+   the permission of the sovereign Pontiff. Then he prepared a
+   manger, and brought hay, an ox and an ass to the place appointed.
+   The brethren were summoned, the people ran together, the forest
+   resounded with their voices, and that venerable night was made
+   glorious by many brilliant lights and sonorous psalms of praise.
+   The man of God stood before the manger, full of devotion and
+   piety, bathed in tears and radiant with joy; many masses were
+   said before it, and the Holy Gospel was chanted by Francis, the
+   Levite of Christ.... A certain valiant and veracious soldier,
+   Master John of Greccio, who, for the love of Christ, had left the
+   warfare of this world, and become a dear friend of the holy man,
+   affirmed that he beheld an Infant marvellously beautiful sleeping
+   in that manger, whom the blessed Father Francis embraced with
+   both his arms, as if he would awake him from sleep."
+
+Besides the wonderful way in which Giotto has succeeded, to use the
+words of Mr Roger Fry, "in making visible, as it were, the sudden
+thrill which penetrates an assembly at a moment of supreme
+significance," there is the further interest of knowing that the scene
+of the Nativity arranged by St. Francis at Greccio, was the first of
+the mystery plays represented in Italy which were the beginning of the
+Italian drama. Giotto makes not only Master John of Greccio see the
+miracle of the Holy Child lying in the saint's arms and smiling up
+into his face, but also those who accompany him and some of the
+friars, while the other brethren, singing with mouths wide open like
+young birds awaiting their food, are much too occupied to notice what
+passes around them. A group of women, their heads swathed in white
+veils, are entering at the door, and the whole scene is one of
+animation and festivity. The marble canopy, with tall marble columns
+and gabled towers, over the altar is one of Giotto's most exquisite
+and graceful designs. But Giotto the shepherd has not succeeded so
+happily in depicting an ox which lies at the saint's feet like a
+purring cat.
+
+14. _The Miracle of the Water._
+
+   "Another time, when the man of God wished to go to a certain
+   desert place, that he might give himself the more freely to
+   contemplation, being very weak, he rode upon an ass belonging to
+   a poor man. It being a hot summer's day, the poor man, as he
+   followed the servant of Christ, became weary with the long way
+   and the steep ascent, and beginning to faint with fatigue and
+   burning thirst, he called after the saint: 'Behold,' he said, 'I
+   shall die of thirst unless I can find a little water at once to
+   refresh me.' Then without delay the man of God got off the ass,
+   and kneeling down with his hands stretched out to heaven, he
+   ceased not to pray till he knew he was heard."
+
+Giotto has here rendered the aridity of the summit of La Vernia, its
+pinnacles of rocks with stunted trees. Two friars, by now quite
+accustomed to miracles, converse together as they lead the donkey from
+which St. Francis has dismounted to pray that the thirsty man's wishes
+may be gratified. The grouping of the figures repeat the pointed lines
+of the landscape, and the whole is harmonious and of great charm of
+composition. It was justly admired by Vasari, who thought the peasant
+drinking was worthy of "perpetual praise." Florentine writers were
+continually harping on what they considered to be Giotto's claim to
+immortality, his genius for portraying nature so that his copy seemed
+as real as life, an opinion shared by Vasari when he gives his reason
+for admiring this particular fresco. "The eager desire," he says,
+"with which the man bends down to the water is portrayed with such
+marvellous effect, that one could almost believe him to be a living
+man actually drinking."
+
+Over the door is a medallion of the Madonna and Child which once was
+by Giotto, but now, alas, the eyes of faith must see his handiwork
+through several layers of paint with which restorers have been allowed
+to cover it. A slightly sardonic smile has been added to the Madonna,
+and to appreciate what is left of her charm it is necessary to look at
+her from the other end of the church, where the beauty of line and
+composition can still be discerned notwithstanding the barbarous
+treatment she has undergone.
+
+15. _St. Francis Preaching to the Birds at Bevagna._
+
+   "When he drew near to Bevagna, he came to a place where a great
+   multitude of birds of different kinds were assembled together,
+   which, when they saw the holy man, came swiftly to the place, and
+   saluted him as if they had the use of reason. They all turned
+   towards him and welcomed him; those which were on the trees bowed
+   their heads in an unaccustomed manner, and all looked earnestly
+   at him, until he went to them and seriously admonished them to
+   listen to the Word of the Lord.... While he spoke these and
+   other such words to them, the birds rejoiced in a marvellous
+   manner, swelling their throats, spreading their wings, opening
+   their beaks, and looking at him with great attention."
+
+This theme has been treated by another artist in the Lower Church,
+with little success as we have seen; it is also sometimes introduced
+in the predellas of big pictures of the school of Cimabue; but it
+remained for Giotto to give us a picture as beautiful in colour as
+those left by the early chroniclers in words. He never painted it
+again on a large scale, and the small representation in the predella
+of the picture in the Louvre follows the Assisan fresco in every
+detail. Two friars whose brown habits are tinted with mauve, one tree,
+a blue, uncertain landscape and some dozen birds, are all he thought
+necessary to explain the story, and yet the whole poetry of St.
+Francis' life is here, the keynote of his character, which has made
+him the most beloved among saints, and the man who though poor,
+unlettered and often reviled, was to herald the coming of a new age in
+religion, art and literature. With what love he bends towards his
+little feathered brethren as he beckons them to him, and they gather
+fearlessly round him while he points to the skies and tells them in
+simple words their duties towards their Creator.
+
+Another Florentine, Benozzo Gozzoli, painted this subject; there
+across the Assisan valley at Montefalco we can see it. His birds are
+certainly better drawn, there are more of them too, and we can even
+amuse ourselves by distinguishing among them golden orioles,
+blackbirds, doves and wood pigeons, but no one would hesitate to say
+that real charm and poetry are missing. Giotto's fresco, painted 600
+years ago, is somewhat faded and many of the birds are partly effaced,
+but we do not feel it matters much what they are--we only love the
+fact that St. Francis called the Umbrian birds around him and preached
+them a sermon with the same care as if he had been in the presence of
+a pope, and that Giotto believed the legend and took pains with his
+work, intending that we also should believe and understand something
+of the sweetness of this Umbrian scene.
+
+16. _Death of the Knight of Celano._
+
+   "When the holy man came into the soldier's house all the family
+   rejoiced greatly to receive this poor one of the Lord. And before
+   he began to eat, according to his custom, the holy man offered
+   his usual prayers and praises to God, with his eyes raised to
+   heaven. When he had finished his prayer, he familiarly called his
+   kind host aside, and said to him: 'Behold, my host and brother,
+   in compliance with thy prayers I have come to eat in thy house.
+   But now attend to that which I say to thee, for thou shalt eat no
+   more here, but elsewhere. Therefore, confess thy sins with truly
+   penitent contrition; let nothing remain in thee unrevealed by
+   true confession, for the Lord will requite thee to-day for the
+   kindness with which thou hast received His poor servant.' The
+   good man believed these holy words, and disclosing all his sins
+   in confession to the companion of St. Francis, he set all his
+   house in order, making himself ready for death, and preparing
+   himself for it to the best of his power. They then sat down to
+   table, and the others began to eat, but the spirit of the host
+   immediately departed, according to the words of the man of God,
+   which foretold his sudden death."
+
+This is one of the most characteristic of Giotto's works, showing his
+power, unique at that time, of touching upon human sorrow with
+simplicity, truth and restraint. Here is no exaggerated gesture of
+grief, no feigned expression of surprise or false note to make us
+doubt the truth of the tragedy that has befallen the house of Celano.
+But the movement of the crowd of sorrowing people, the men gazing down
+on the dead knight, the women weeping, their fair hair falling
+about their shoulders, tell better than any restless movement the
+awful grief which fills their hearts. It has happened so suddenly that
+the friar still sits at table with his fork in his hand, while St.
+Francis hast just risen to go to the people's assistance, while a man
+in the Florentine dress turns to him seeming, from the gesture of his
+hand, to say: "See, your prophecy has been fulfilled but too soon."
+
+  [Illustration: DEATH OF THE KNIGHT OF CELANO
+  (D. ANDERSON--_photo_)]
+
+17. _St. Francis preaches before Honorius III._
+
+   "Having to preach on a certain day before the Pope and the
+   cardinals, at the suggestion of the Cardinal of Ostia he learned
+   a sermon by heart, which he had carefully prepared; when he was
+   about to speak it for their edification he wholly forgot
+   everything he had to say, so that he could not utter a word. He
+   related with true humility what had befallen him, and then,
+   having invoked the aid of the Holy Spirit, he began at once to
+   move the hearts of these great men...."
+
+In this fine fresco Giotto has represented St. Francis holding his
+audience as though spell-bound by the power of his eloquence, and the
+contrast is great between the charming figure of the saint and that of
+the stern and earnest Pope, who, deep in thought, is leaning his chin
+on his hand, perhaps wondering at the strange chance which has brought
+the slight brown figure, so dusty and so poorly clad, so ethereal and
+so eloquent, into the midst of the papal court. It is delightful to
+study the faces and gestures of the listeners; some are all enthusiasm
+and interest, like the charming young cardinal in an orange-tinted
+robe, whose thoughts seem to be far away following where St. Francis'
+burning words are leading them; but the older man gazes critically at
+the saint, perhaps saying within himself: "What is this I hear, we
+must give up all, our fat benefices, our comfortable Roman palaces, to
+follow Christ"; and the cardinal on the right of the Pope also seems
+surprised at the new doctrines of love, poverty and sacrifice. Four
+others lean their heads on their hands; but how varied are the
+gestures, from the Pope, all eagerness and keen attention, to the
+cardinal bowing his head sadly thinking, like the man of great
+possessions, how pleasant it would be to become perfect, but how
+impossible it is to leave the goods of this world. St. Francis'
+companion is seated at his master's feet as though affirming, "I
+follow his teaching, and all he says is right."
+
+18. _The Apparition of St. Francis._
+
+   "For when the illustrious preacher and glorious Confessor,
+   Anthony, who is now with Christ, was preaching to the brethren in
+   the chapel at Arles on the title upon the Cross--'Jesus of
+   Nazareth, the King of the Jews'--a certain friar of approved
+   virtue named Monaldus, casting his eyes by divine inspiration
+   upon the door of the chapter-house, beheld, with his bodily eyes,
+   the blessed Francis raised in the air, blessing the brethren,
+   with his arms outstretched in the form of a Cross."
+
+The friars sit in various attitudes of somewhat fatigued attention
+before St. Anthony who is standing, and none seem as yet to be aware
+of the apparition of St. Francis, who appears at the open door under a
+Gothic archway, the blue sky behind him. There is a strange feeling of
+peace about the scene.
+
+19. _The Stigmata._
+
+               "... On the hard rock,
+     'Twixt Arno and the Tiber, he from Christ
+     Took the last signet, which his limbs two years
+     Did carry...."[99]
+
+This fresco is unhappily much ruined; enough however remains to trace
+a close resemblance to Giotto's predella of the same subject now in
+the Louvre, but where the solemnity of the scene is increased by the
+saint being alone with the Seraph upon La Vernia.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+It may be well here to give some of the various opinions as to the
+authorship of these frescoes, though in this small book it is
+impossible to go at all deeply into the subject. Some, following Baron
+von Rumohr, hold that the only paintings in the Upper Church by
+Giotto, are the two by the door, the _Miracle of the Water_ and the
+_Sermon to the Birds_, while Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle give also
+the first of the series and the last five to him, but while "youthful
+and feeling his way," and all the rest to Gaddo Gaddi, or maybe
+Filippo Rusutti. Lastly, Mr Bernhard Berenson is of opinion that
+Giotto's style is to be clearly traced from the first fresco, _St.
+Francis honoured by the Simpleton_, to the nineteenth, _The Stigmata_;
+and they show so much affinity to the work of the great Florentine in
+Sta. Croce and elsewhere, that it is impossible not to agree with him.
+In the remaining frescoes, representing the death and miracles of St.
+Francis, he sees a close resemblance to the work of the artist who
+painted in the chapel of St. Nicholas (Lower Church), and who may have
+aided Giotto in the Upper Church before being chosen to continue his
+master's work.
+
+20. _Death of St. Francis._
+
+   "The hour of his departure being at hand, he commanded all the
+   brethren who were in that place to be called to him, and
+   comforted them with consoling words concerning his death,
+   exhorting them with fatherly affection to the divine love....
+   When he had finished these loving admonitions, this man, most
+   dear to God, commanded that the Book of the Gospels should be
+   brought to him, and ... his most holy soul being set free and
+   absorbed in the abyss of the divine glory, the blessed man slept
+   in the Lord."
+
+This fresco has suffered from the damp and all that clearly remains
+are the angels, in whom the artist's feeling for graceful movement is
+shown, their flight down towards the dead recalling the rush of the
+swallows' wings as they circle in the evening above the towers of San
+Francesco.
+
+21. _The Apparitions of St. Francis._
+
+   "... Brother Augustine, a holy and just man, was minister of the
+   Friars at Lavoro: he being at the point of death, and having for
+   a long time lost the use of speech, exclaimed suddenly, in the
+   hearing of all who stood around: 'Wait for me, Father, wait for
+   me; I am coming with thee....'
+
+   "At the same time the Bishop of Assisi was making a devout
+   pilgrimage to the church of St. Michael, on Mount Gargano. To him
+   the Blessed Francis appeared on the very night of his departure,
+   saying: 'Behold I leave the world and go to Heaven.'"
+
+In one fresco the artist has represented two different scenes, the
+greater prominence being given to the dying friar surrounded by many
+brethren. In neither is shown the figure of St. Francis, as the artist
+probably thought that it would have been difficult to introduce the
+apparition twice. But while the gesture of the friar stretching out
+his arms and the arrangement of the others explain the story, it would
+be difficult, without St. Bonaventure's legend, to know the feelings
+of the bishop who is so calmly sleeping in the background.
+
+22. _The Incredulous Knight of Assisi._
+
+   "... when the holy man had departed from this life, and his
+   sacred spirit had entered its eternal house ... many of the
+   citizens of Assisi were admitted to see and kiss the Sacred
+   Stigmata. Among these was a certain soldier, a learned and
+   prudent man, named Jerome, held in high estimation in the city,
+   who, doubting the miracle of the Sacred Stigmata, and being
+   incredulous like another Thomas, more boldly and eagerly than the
+   rest moved the nails in the presence of his fellow-citizens, and
+   touched with his own hands the hands and feet of the holy man;
+   and while he thus touched these palpable signs of the wounds of
+   Christ, his heart was healed and freed from every wound of
+   doubt."
+
+This fresco is so much ruined that it is difficult to enjoy it as a
+whole, but some of the figures of the young acolytes bearing lighted
+torches, and the priests reading the service and sprinkling the body
+with holy water, are very life-like.
+
+23. _The Mourning of the Nuns of San Damiano._
+
+   "Passing by the church of St. Damian, where that noble virgin,
+   Clare, now glorious in heaven, abode with the virgins her
+   sisters, the holy body, adorned with celestial jewels [the marks
+   of the Stigmata], remained there awhile, till those holy virgins
+   could see and kiss them."
+
+This, the loveliest of the last nine frescoes, recalls the one in St.
+Nicholas' Chapel of the three prisoners imploring the saint's
+protection; even to the basilica which forms the background of both.
+Considering that it is the last farewell of St. Clare and her
+companions to St. Francis the artist might have given a more tragic
+touch to the scene, but all is made subservient to the rendering of
+graceful figures, like the charming nuns who talk together as they
+hasten out of San Damiano, whose humble facade of stone the artist has
+transformed into a building of marble and mosaic almost rivalling the
+glories of such cathedrals as Siena and Orvieto. St. Clare stoops to
+kiss the saint while priests and citizens wait to resume their hymns
+of praise, and a small child climbs up a tree and tears down branches
+to strew upon the road in front of the bier.[100]
+
+24. _The Canonisation of St. Francis._
+
+   "The Sovereign Pontiff, Gregory IX, ... determined with pious
+   counsel and holy consideration to pay to the holy man that
+   veneration and honour of which he knew him to be most worthy ...
+   and coming himself in person to the city of Assisi in the year of
+   our Lord's Incarnation, 1228, on Sunday the 6th of July, with
+   many ceremonies and great solemnity, he inscribed the Blessed
+   Father in the catalogue of the saints."
+
+This fresco is so ruined that it is impossible to form any idea of its
+composition; about the only object clearly to be seen is the
+sepulchral urn of St. Francis, represented beneath an iron grating in
+the church of San Giorgio.
+
+25. _The Dream of Gregory IX, at Perugia._
+
+   "On a certain night, then, as the Pontiff was afterwards wont to
+   relate with many tears, the Blessed Francis appeared to him in a
+   dream, and with unwonted severity in his countenance, reproving
+   him for the doubt which lurked in his heart, raised his right
+   arm, discovered the wound, and commanded that a vessel should be
+   brought to receive the blood which issued from his side. The
+   Supreme Pontiff still in vision, brought him the vessel, which
+   seemed to be filled even to the brim with the blood which flowed
+   from his side."
+
+We are here left with an impression that the artist was hampered by
+not having enough figures for his composition, and the four men seated
+on the ground and guarding the Pope, compare unfavourably with
+Giotto's fresco of the three grand watchers by Innocent III, upon the
+opposite wall.
+
+16. _St. Francis cures the Wounded Man._
+
+   "It happened in the city of Ilerda, in Catalonia, that a good
+   man, named John, who was very devout to St. Francis, had to pass
+   through a street, in which certain men were lying in wait to kill
+   him and ... wounded him with so many dagger-strokes as to leave
+   him without hope of life.... The poor man's cure was considered
+   impossible by all the physicians.... And, behold, as the sufferer
+   lay alone on his bed, frequently calling on the name of Francis
+   ... one stood by him in the habit of a Friar Minor, who, as it
+   seemed to him, came in by a window, and calling him by his name,
+   said, 'Because thou hast trusted in me, behold, the Lord will
+   deliver thee.'"
+
+The artist having here an incident less difficult to deal with than
+visions and dreams, betrays a certain humour in the stout figure of
+the doctor, who, as he leaves the room, turns to the two women as
+though saying, "He has begun to pray, as if that can help him when I
+have failed to cure him." Meantime St. Francis, escorted by two tall
+and graceful angels with great wings, is laying his hands upon the
+wounded man. Here, as in most of these latter frescoes, a single scene
+is divided into more than one episode; this seems to us to be the
+great difference between them and the works of Giotto, where the eye
+is immediately attracted towards the principal figure or figures, the
+others only serving to complete the composition.
+
+27. _The last Confession of the Woman of Benevento._
+
+   "... a certain woman who had a special devotion to St. Francis,
+   went the way of all flesh. Now, all the clergy being assembled
+   round the corpse to keep the accustomed vigils, and say the usual
+   psalms and prayers, suddenly that woman rose on her feet, in
+   presence of them all, on the bier where she lay, and calling to
+   her one of the priests ... 'Father,' she said, 'I wish to
+   confess. As soon as I was dead, I was sent to a dreadful dungeon,
+   because I had never confessed a certain sin which I will now make
+   known to you. But St. Francis, whom I have ever devoutly served,
+   having prayed for me, I have been suffered to return to the body,
+   that having revealed that sin, I may be made worthy of eternal
+   life.' ... She made her confession, therefore, trembling to the
+   priest, and having received absolution, quietly lay down on the
+   bier, and slept peacefully in the Lord."
+
+The legend is dramatic and the artist has not failed to make us feel
+the great sadness and solemnity of the scene. A moment more, and the
+group of people to the left will come forward to carry the woman away
+for burial while the relations weep most bitterly; they stand aside
+with heads bowed in grief, for already the presence of death is felt.
+Only the sorrow of the child, who stretches out his arms, has passed
+away upon seeing her rise to speak with the priest. Very tall and
+slender are the figures of the women, bending and swaying together
+like flowers in a gentle breeze.
+
+28. _St. Francis releases Peter of Alesia from Prison._
+
+   "When Pope Gregory IX, was sitting in the chair of St. Peter, a
+   certain man named Peter, of the city of Alesia, on an accusation
+   of heresy, was carried to Rome, and, by command of the same
+   Pontiff, was given in custody to the Bishop of Tivoli. He, having
+   been charged to keep him in safety ... bound him with heavy
+   chains and imprisoned him in a dark dungeon.... This man began to
+   call with many prayers and tears upon St. Francis ... beseeching
+   him to have mercy upon him.... About twilight on the vigil of his
+   feast, St. Francis mercifully appeared to him in prison, and,
+   calling him by his name, commanded him immediately to arise....
+   Then, by the power of the presence of the holy man, he beheld the
+   fetters fall broken from his feet, and the doors of the prison
+   were unlocked without anyone to open them, so that he could go
+   forth unbound and free."
+
+Everything here gives the impression of height; the tall slim figures,
+the high doorway, and the slender tower and arches. St. Francis is
+seen flying up to the skies with the same swift motion the artist has
+given to the figure of St. Nicholas in the Lower Church, and the
+"Greek Chorus" to the left serves to show surprise at the unusual
+occurrence of a prisoner suddenly emerging from his prison with broken
+fetters in his hands.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+None should leave the church without looking at the stalls in the
+choir; they are by Domenico da San Severino, made in 1501, by order,
+as an inscription tells us, of Francesco Sansone, General of the
+franciscan order, and friend of Sixtus IV. The artist only took ten
+years to execute this really wonderful work; the intarsia figures of
+the stalls in pale yellow wood, most of them fancy portraits of the
+companions of St. Francis, are remarkable for their form and
+character. They betray, in the opinion of Mr Berenson, Venetian
+influences of Crivelli and of the school of the Vivarini.
+
+  [Illustration: ARMS OF THE FRANCISCANS FROM THE INTARSIA OF THE
+  STALLS]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[95] St. Bonaventure was born in 1221 at Bagnora in Umbria, and became
+General of the franciscan order. Dante, in canto xii. of the
+_Paradiso_, leaves him to sing the praises of St. Dominic, just as the
+dominican divine St. Thomas Aquinas had related the story of St.
+Francis in the preceding canto.
+
+[96] We have used Miss Lockhart's translation of St. Bonaventure's
+_Legenda Santa Francisci_.
+
+[97] J. Ruskin, _Mornings in Florence_, iii. Before the Soldan.
+
+[98] xi. _Paradiso_, Cary's translation.
+
+[99] Dante, _Paradiso_, xi., Cary's translation.
+
+[100] A comparison may be made between the long and slender body of
+the saint here with that in the death of St. Francis in Sta. Croce,
+where the body is firmly drawn and of more massive proportions.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+_St. Clare at San Damiano. The Church of Santa Chiara._
+
+   "Comme les fleurs, les ames ont leur parfum qui ne trompe
+   jamais."--P. SABATIER. _Vie de S. Francois d'Assise_.
+
+
+The days of St. Clare from the age of eighteen until her death in 1253
+were passed within the convent walls of San Damiano, and though
+peaceful enough, for a mediaeval lady, they were full of events and
+varied interest.
+
+She was born on the 10th of July 1194 in Assisi of noble parents, her
+father being Count Favorino Scifi (spelt also Scefi) the descendant of
+an ancient Roman family who owned a large palace in the town, and a
+castle on the slope of Mount Subasio to the east of the ravine where
+the Carceri lie among the ilex woods. The castle gave the title of
+Count of Sasso Rosso to its owners, and was the cause of much
+skirmishing between the Scifi and the Ghislerio who were continually
+wresting it from each other, until in 1300, during one of these
+struggles, the walls were razed to the ground and no one sought
+afterwards to repair its ruins. Of Sasso Rosso a few stones still
+remain, which, as they catch the morning light, are seen from Assisi
+like a grey crag projecting from the mountain, high above the road to
+Spello. When not fighting beneath the walls of his castle Count
+Favorino was generally away on some skirmishing expedition, and during
+his absences, his wife, the Lady Ortolana of the noble family of the
+Fiumi, would depart upon a pilgrimage to the south of Italy or even to
+the Holy Land.[101] An old writer remarks that her name "Ortolana
+(market gardener) was very appropriate, because from her, as from a
+well-tended orchard, sprang most noble plants." After her return from
+Palestine she one night heard a voice speaking these prophetic words
+to which she listened with great awe. "Be not afraid Ortolana, for
+from thee shall arise a light so bright and clear that the darkness of
+the earth shall be illuminated thereby." So the daughter who was born
+soon after was called Chiara in memory of the divine message. With so
+pious a mother it is not surprising that Clare should have grown up
+thoughtful and fond of praying; we even hear of her seeking solitary
+corners in the palace where she would be found saying her rosary,
+using pebbles like the hermits of old instead of beads upon a chain.
+But her evident inclination for a religious life in no way alarmed
+Count Favorino, who had made up his mind that she should marry a
+wealthy young Assisan noble, for even at an early age she showed great
+promise of beauty. "Her face was oval," says a chronicler, "her
+forehead spacious, her complexion brilliant, and her eyebrows and hair
+very fair. A celestial smile played in her eyes and around her mouth;
+her nose was well-proportioned and slightly aquiline; of good stature
+she was rather inclined to stoutness, but not to excess." A little
+while and her fate in life would have been sealed in the ordinary way,
+and she would have continued to look out upon the world through the
+barred windows of some old Assisan palace; but great changes were
+being wrought in the town even when Clare had just passed into
+girlhood. With the rest of her fellow-citizens, rich and poor, she was
+destined to feel the potent influence of one who suddenly appeared in
+their midst like an inspired prophet of old, calling on all to repent,
+and picturing higher ideals in life than any had hitherto dreamed of.
+Although her first meeting with St. Francis has not been recorded by
+any early biographer, we may be sure that from the age of fourteen,
+and perhaps even before, the story of his doings had been familiar to
+her, for the stir his conversion made among the people, his quarrels
+with his father, and the many followers he gained, even among the
+nobles, were of too extraordinary a nature to pass without comment in
+the family of the Scifi.[102] Their palace being near the Porta Nuova
+it is certain that Clare and her younger sister Agnes must have often
+seen St. Francis pass on his way to San Damiano, carrying the bricks
+which he had begged from door to door to repair its crumbling walls,
+and heard him scoffed at by the children and cursed by his angry
+father. As his fame as a preacher grew the Scifi family hurried with
+the rest to listen to his sermons in the cathedral, or perhaps even in
+the market-place, where he would stand upon the steps of the old
+temple and gather the peasants around him on a market day. But the
+decisive time arrived in the year 1212, when St. Francis, by then the
+acknowledged founder of a new order sanctioned by the Pope, and no
+longer jeered at as a mad enthusiast, came to preach during Lent in
+the church of San Giorgio. It was the parish church of the Scifi, and
+the whole family attended every service. Clare was then eighteen,
+young enough to be carried away by the words of the franciscan and
+build for herself a life outside her present existence; old enough to
+have felt unbearable the trammels of a degraded age, and to long,
+during those years of warfare to which all the cities of the valley
+were subjected, for an escape to where peace and purity could be
+found. Only dimly she saw her way to a perfect love of Christ. The
+preacher's words were addressed to all, but she felt them as an
+especial call to herself, and unhesitatingly she resolved to seek out
+the friar at the Portiuncula and ask his help and counsel in what was
+no easy task. Instinctively knowing her mother could be of no aid,
+even if she sympathised in her cravings for a more spiritual life, she
+gained the confidence of her aunt, Bianca Guelfucci, who all through
+played her part regardless of Count Favorino's possible revenge.
+
+Even during the first two years of his mission St. Francis was
+accustomed to receive many men who wished to leave home and comforts,
+and tramp along the country roads with him, but when the young Chiara
+Scifi threw herself at his feet imploring him to help her to enter
+upon a new way of life, his heart was troubled, and, reflecting on
+what wide results his preaching was taking, fear even may have formed
+part of his surprise. Bernard of Quintavalle he had bidden sell all
+that he had, distribute it to the poor, and join him at the leper
+houses; but before allowing Clare to take the veil he sought to prove
+her vocation beyond a doubt, and bade her go from door to door through
+the town begging her bread, clad in rough sack-cloth with a hood drawn
+about her face. Her piety only increased until St. Francis, believing
+that he was called upon to help her, resolved to act the part of the
+spiritual knight errant.
+
+  [Illustration: DOOR THROUGH WHICH ST. CLARE LEFT THE PALAZZO SCIFI]
+
+On Palm Sunday, arrayed in their richest clothes, the members of the
+Scifi and the Fiumi families attended high mass in the cathedral, and
+with the rest of the citizens went up to receive the branches of
+palms. But to the astonishment of all Clare remained kneeling as if
+wrapt in a dream, and in vain the bishop waited for her to follow the
+procession to the altar. All eyes were upon her as the bishop, with
+paternal tenderness, came down from the altar steps to where the young
+girl knelt and placed the palm in her hand. That night Clare left her
+father's house for ever. A small door in the Scifi palace is still
+shown through which she is said to have escaped. It had been walled up
+for some time, but the fragile girl gifted that night with superhuman
+strength and courage, tore down timber and stones and joined Bianca
+Guelfucci, who was waiting with some trembling maidservants where the
+arch spans the street, to accompany her to the Portiuncula (see p.
+104). Great was the consternation in the family when next morning her
+flight was discovered, and news came that she had found shelter in the
+benedictine convent near Bastia. Count Favorino and his wife lost no
+time in following her, fully persuaded that by threats or entreaties
+they would be able to induce her to return home and marry the man of
+her father's choice; but they knew little of the strength of character
+which lay hidden beneath the gentle nature of the eldest and hitherto
+most docile of their daughters. The violent words of her father and
+the tears of her mother in no way shook Clare's determination;
+approaching the altar she placed one hand upon it while with the other
+she raised her veil, and facing her parents showed them the close cut
+hair which marked her as the bride of Jesus Christ. No earthly power,
+she said, should sever her from the life she had chosen of her own
+free will, and crest-fallen they left the convent without another
+word. It was hardly surprising that Agnes, the second sister, who
+sometimes went to see St. Clare at Bastia, should wish to take the
+veil. At this the fury of Count Favorino knew no bounds, and he sent
+his brother Monaldo with several armed followers, among whom may have
+been Clare's slighted lover, to force Agnes, if persuasion failed, to
+abandon her vocation. She was at their mercy but refused to leave the
+convent, so they caught her by her long fair hair and dragged her
+across the fields towards the town, kicking her as they went; her
+cries filled the air, "Clare, my sister, help, so that I may not be
+taken from my heavenly spouse." The prayers of Clare were heard, for
+suddenly the slight form of the girl became as lead in the arms of the
+soldiers, and in vain they tried to lift her. Monaldo, beside himself
+with rage, drew his sword to strike her when his arm dropt withered
+and useless by his side. Clare, who had by this time come upon the
+scene, begged them to desist from their cruel acts, and cowed by what
+had happened they slunk away, leaving the sisters to return to the
+convent.
+
+St. Francis seeing the devotion and steady vocation of both Clare and
+Agnes, and doubtless foreseeing that many would follow their example,
+began to seek for some shelter where they could lead a life of prayer
+and labour. Again the Benedictines of Mount Subasio came forward with
+a gift, offering another humble sanctuary which the saint had repaired
+some years before. This was San Damiano, a chapel so old that none
+could tell its origin; the vague legend that it stands on the site of
+a pagan necropolis seems confirmed by a lofty fragment of Roman
+masonry which juts up on the roadside between the Porta Nuova and San
+Damiano. With his own hands St. Francis built a few rude cells near
+the chapel, resembling the cluster of huts by the Portiuncula, and
+here the "Poor Ladies" were to pass their days in prayer and manual
+labour. The little humble grey stone building among the olive trees
+with the pomgranates flowering against its walls, so different to a
+convent of the present day, must have seemed to Clare the realisation
+of a freer life than ever she had known before. Others felt its charm
+and before long several friends had joined her besides Bianca
+Guelfucci, while upon the death of Count Favorino, Madonna Ortolana
+received the habit from the hands of St. Francis together with her
+youngest daughter Beatrice. The fame of the order spread far and wide,
+gaining so many novices that several new houses were founded in Italy
+even during the first few years. In those early days St. Clare was
+given no written law to follow, but like the brethren she and her nuns
+learnt all the perfection of a religious life from St. Francis, who
+would often stop at San Damiano on his way to and from the town. He
+did not allow them to go beyond their boundaries, but a busy life was
+to be passed in their cells; owning nothing, they were to depend
+entirely upon what the brothers could beg for them in the town and
+country round, and when provisions were scarce they fasted. In return
+the nuns spun the grey stuff for the habits of the friars and the
+linen for their altars; and after St. Francis received the Stigmata,
+St. Clare fashioned sandals for him with space for the nails so that
+he might walk with more ease. Often the poor came to seek help at her
+hands, and many times the sick were tended in a little mud hut near
+her cell which she used as a hospital. Silently her life was passed,
+and to those who looked on from the outside perhaps it might have
+seemed of small avail compared with the very apparent results of St.
+Francis' endeavours to help his fellow creatures. But very quietly she
+was guiding the women of mediaeval Italy towards higher aims, for even
+those who could not follow her into the cloister were aided in their
+lives at home by the thought of the pure-souled gentle nun of San
+Damiano. Not the least important part of her work was the womanly
+sympathy and help which she gave to St. Francis. He turned to her when
+in trouble, and it was she who encouraged him to continue preaching to
+the people when, at one time he thought that his vocation was to be a
+life of solitary prayer and not of constant contact with mankind. He
+counted on her prayers, and trusting in her counsel went forward once
+more to preach the words of redemption. From her lonely cell she
+watched his work with tender solicitude, and when blind and ill he
+came for the last time to San Damiano she tended to his wants in a
+little hut she erected for him not far from the convent whence, across
+the vineyard and olive grove which separated them, the first strains
+of his glorious Canticle to the Sun came to her one morning. Her
+gentle influence played an important part in his life, giving him a
+friendship which is one of the most beautiful things to dwell on in
+their lives. Some have sneered at its purity, and compared so ideal a
+connection to a commonplace mediaeval tale of monk and nun; but it is
+degrading even to hint at such an ending to the love of these two for
+each other, and impossible to believe it after reading M. Sabatier's
+beautiful chapter on St. Clare, where he touches, in some of his most
+charming pages, upon a side of St. Francis' character that most
+biographers have but little understood.
+
+A beautiful story in the _Fioretti_ relates how once St. Clare,
+desiring greatly to eat with St. Francis, a boon he had never accorded
+her, was granted the request at the earnest prayer of the brethren,
+"and that she may be the more consoled," he said, "I will that this
+breaking of bread take place in St. Mary of the Angels; for she has
+been so long shut up in S. Damian that it will rejoice her to see
+again the House of Mary, where her hair was shorn off, and she became
+the bride of Christ." Once more St. Clare came to the plain of the
+Portiuncula, and the saint spoke so sweetly and eloquently of heavenly
+things that all remained wrapped in ecstacy, oblivious of the food
+which was spread before them on the floor and, as Clare dwelt in
+divine contemplation, a great flame sprang up and shrouded them in
+celestial light. The Assisans and the people of Bettona, looking down
+from their walls upon the plain, thought that the Portiuncula was on
+fire, and hurried to the assistance of their beloved saint. "But
+coming close to the House," says the _Fioretti_, "they entered within,
+and found St. Francis and St. Clare with all their company in
+contemplation wrapt in God as they sat round the humble board."
+Comforted by this spiritual feast St. Clare returned to San Damiano,
+where she was expected with great anxiety, as it had been imagined
+that St. Francis might have sent her to rule some other convent,
+"wherefore the sisters rejoiced exceedingly when they saw her face
+again." Those were peaceful and happy days, but sorrow came when news
+reached her that St. Francis was near his end; "she wept most
+bitterly, and refused to be comforted," for she too was ill, and
+feared to die before she could see his face again. This fear she
+signified through a brother unto the Blessed Francis, and when the
+saint, who loved her with a singular and paternal affection, heard it,
+he had pity on her; and considering that her desire to see him once
+more could not be fulfilled in the future, he sent her a letter with
+his benediction and absolving her from every fault.... "Go and tell
+sister Clare to lay aside all sadness and sorrow, for now she cannot
+see me, but of a truth before her death both she and her sisters shall
+see me and be greatly comforted." But the last she saw of him was
+through a lattice window, when they brought his dead body for the nuns
+to see and kiss the pierced hands and feet (see p. 119).
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+  [Illustration: SAN DAMIANO, SHOWING THE WINDOW WITH THE LEDGE WHENCE
+  ST. CLARE ROUTED THE SARACENS]
+
+A strange thing happened to disturb the peaceful serenity of their
+lives at San Damiano in the year 1234, when the army of Frederic II,
+was fighting in the north of Italy, and a detachment of Saracen troops
+under one of his generals, Vitale d'Anversa, came through Umbria,
+pillaging the country as they passed. Assisi was a desirable prey, as
+it had been to many before them, and coming to the convent of San
+Damiano they scaled its walls, preparatory to a final rush upon the
+town. The terror of the nuns may be imagined, and running to the cell
+where Clare lay ill in bed they cowered round her "like frightened
+doves when the hawk has stooped upon their dovecote." Taking the
+Blessed Sacrament, which she was allowed to keep in a little chapel
+next to her cell, she proceeded to face the whole army, trusting like
+St. Martin in the power of prayer and personal courage. As she walked
+towards the window overlooking the small courtyard a voice spoke to
+her from the ciborium saying, "Assisi will have much to suffer, but my
+arm shall defend her." Raising the Blessed Sacrament on high she stood
+at the open window, against which the soldiers had already placed a
+ladder; those who were ascending, as they looked up towards her, fell
+back blinded, while the others took to flight, and thus cloister and
+city were saved through the intercession of the gentle saint. Vitale
+d'Anversa, who had not been present at the prodigy, probably thinking
+the soldiers had failed in their enterprise through lack of valour,
+came with a still larger company of men, and led them in person to
+storm the town. St. Clare, hearing what peril encompassed Assisi, and
+being asked by the citizens to intercede with Heaven as the enemy had
+sworn to bury them beneath their city walls, gathered all her nuns
+about her, and knelt in prayer with them. At dawn the next morning a
+furious tempest arose, scattering the tents of the Saracens in every
+direction, and causing such a panic that they took refuge in hasty
+flight. The gratitude of the citizens increased their love for St.
+Clare, as all attributed their release to her prayers, and to this day
+she is regarded as the deliverer of her country.
+
+One cannot help regretting that while so many contemporary chroniclers
+have left detailed and varied accounts of St. Francis, they only
+casually allude to St. Clare, calling her "a sweet spring blossom," or
+"the chief rival of the Blessed Francis in the observance of Gospel
+perfection," but leaving later writers to form their own pictures of
+the saint. And the picture they give is always of a silent and
+prayerful nun, beautiful of feature, sweet and gentle of disposition,
+coming ever to the help of those who needed it, and acting the part of
+a guardian angel to the Assisans. Her horizon was bounded by the
+mountains of the Spoletan valley; and from the outside world, on which
+her influence worked so surely during her life and for long centuries
+after her death, only faint echoes reached her when a pope or a
+cardinal came to see her, or a princess wrote her a letter from some
+distant country. Among the many royal and noble people who had entered
+a Poor Clare sisterhood, or like St. Elizabeth of Hungary had joined
+the Third Order, was the Blessed Agnes, daughter of the King of
+Bohemia, who, kindled with a desire for a religious life upon hearing
+the story of St. Clare, refused the hand of Frederick II, and passed
+her life in a convent. Often she wrote to the Assisan abbess getting
+in reply most charming letters, beginning "To her who is dearer to me
+than any other mortal," or "To the daughter of the King of Kings, to
+the Queen of Virgins, to the worthy spouse of Jesus Christ; the
+unworthy servant of the poor nuns of San Damiano sends greetings and
+rejoicings in the good fortune of living always in the extremest
+poverty." These two never met, but their friendship was a close one,
+and their correspondence, of which many letters are preserved, ceased
+only with their death.
+
+St. Clare survived St. Francis twenty-seven years, and they were sad
+years for one, who, like her clung so devoutly to his rule and
+teaching. She lived to see the first divisions among the franciscans,
+and before she died the corner-stone of the great Basilica had been
+raised, filling her with dismay for the future, for in its very
+grandeur and beauty she saw the downfall of the franciscan ideal. Not
+only did she witness all these changes, but in her own convent she had
+many battles to fight for the preservation of the rule she loved, she
+even courageously opposed the commands of the Pope himself who wished
+to mould the nuns to his wishes as he had done the friars. Even during
+the lifetime of St. Francis, while he was absent on a distant
+pilgrimage, Gregory IX, then Cardinal Ugolino, persuaded St. Clare of
+the necessity of having a written rule, and gave her that of the
+Benedictine nuns. But when she found that, although it was strict
+enough, it allowed the holding of property in community, which was
+entirely against the spirit of her order, she refused to agree to the
+innovation. So upon the saint's return he composed a written rule for
+the sisters, so strict, it is said, that its perusal drew tears from
+the eyes of the Cardinal Ugolino. Still she had to fight the battle of
+loyalty to a dead saint's memory; for the very year that Gregory came
+to Assisi for the canonisation of St. Francis he paid a visit to St.
+Clare, and with earnest words endeavoured to persuade her to mitigate
+her rule. She held so firmly to her way that the Pope thought she
+might perhaps be thinking of the vow of poverty which she had made at
+the Portiuncula, and told her he could absolve her from it through the
+powers of his papal keys. Then Clare summoned all her courage as she
+faced the Pontiff, and said to him these simple words which showed
+him he need try no more to tempt her from duty, "Ah holy father," she
+cried, "I crave for the absolution of my sins, but I desire not to be
+absolved from following Jesus Christ."
+
+Gregory had often been puzzled by the unique unworldliness of St.
+Francis; his admiration for St. Clare was even more profound, and in
+reading his letters after leaving the franciscan abbess one forgets
+that he was over eighty at the time. With him she had gained her point
+once and for all, but upon his death she had to oppose the wishes of
+Innocent IV, who did all in his power to merge the franciscan order of
+Poor Clares into an ordinary Benedictine community. Again it ended in
+the triumph of St. Clare, and the day before her death she had the joy
+of receiving the news that the Pope had issued a papal bull
+sanctioning the rule for which both St. Francis and she had fought;
+namely, that they were to live absolutely poor without any worldly
+possession of any kind. "N'est-ce pas," says M. Sabatier, "un des plus
+beaux tableaux de l'histoire religieuse, que celui de cette femme qui,
+pendant plus d'un quart de siecle, soutient contre les papes qui se
+succedent sur le trone pontifical une lutte de tous les instants; qui
+demeure egalement respectueuse et inebranlable, et ne consent a mourir
+qu'apres avoir remporte la victoire?"
+
+St. Clare during the remaining years of her life suffered continually
+from ill-health, and it was from a bed of infirmity that she so
+ardently prayed the Pope to sanction her rule of poverty, and enjoined
+the sisterhood to keep its tenets faithfully. Like St. Francis, brave
+and cheerful to the last, she called her weeping companions around her
+to give them her final blessing and farewell. Among them knelt the
+Blessed Agnes, who had come from her nunnery in Florence to assist her
+sister, and the three holy brethren Leo, Angelo and Juniper. On the
+11th of August 1253, the feast of St. Rufino, as she was preparing to
+leave the world they heard her speak, but so softly that the words
+were lost to them. "Mother, with whom are you conversing?" asked one
+of the nuns, and she answered: "Sister, I am speaking with this little
+soul of mine, now blessed, to whom the glory of paradise is already
+opening."
+
+Then as the evening closed in and they were still watching, a great
+light was seen to fill the doorway leading from the oratory of St.
+Clare to her cell; and from out of it came a long procession of
+white-robed virgins led by the Queen of Heaven, whose head was crowned
+with a diadem of shining gold, and whose eyes sent forth such
+splendour as might have changed the night into the brightest day. And
+as each of the celestial visitors stooped to kiss St. Clare, the
+watching nuns knew that her soul had already reached its home.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Once the little chapel of San Damiano has been seen there can be no
+fear of ever forgetting the charm attached to the memory of St. Clare,
+for she has left there something of her own character and personality,
+which we feel instinctively without being able quite to explain its
+presence. So near the town, only just outside its walls, this little
+sanctuary yet remains as in the olden times, one of the most peaceful
+spots that could have been chosen for a nunnery; but the silence which
+falls upon one while resting on the stone seats before entering the
+courtyard, has this difference with the silence of such a piazza as
+that of San Rufino or of some of the Assisan streets; that there the
+buildings tell of an age which is dead whose memories raise no
+responsive echoes in our hearts, whereas San Damiano is filled with
+the associations of those who, living so long ago, yet have left the
+atmosphere of their presence as a living influence among us. As we
+look at the steep paths below us leading through the fields and the
+oak trees down to the plain, to Rivo-Torto and the Portiuncula, we
+think how often St. Francis went up and down it whenever he passed to
+see St. Clare and her sisters. And how many times did Brother Bernard
+come with messages when he lay dying, and news was anxiously awaited
+at San Damiano; then along the grass path skirting the hill from Porta
+Mojano were seen the crowds of nobles, townsfolk, peasants and friars
+bearing the dead body of the saint to San Giorgio, and pausing awhile
+at the convent for the love of St. Clare. A pope with all his
+cardinals next passes, on a visit to the young abbess; St. Bonaventure
+stops to ask her prayers; while the poor and the ill were ever
+knocking at the convent door to obtain her help or a word of kindly
+sympathy. In the Umbrian land it is so easy to realise these things,
+they are more than simply memories for those who have time to pause
+and dream awhile; and sometimes it has seemed, while reading the
+_Fioretti_ or Brother Leo's chronicle beneath the olive trees of San
+Damiano, that we have slipped back through the ages, and looking up we
+half expect to see the hurrying figure of St. Francis moving quickly
+in and out among the trees. Suddenly the low sound of chanting comes
+through the open door of the convent reaching us like the incessant
+drone of a swarm of bees in the sunshine, until it dies away, and
+brown-clothed, sandalled brethren pass out across the courtyard, and
+two by two disappear down the hill on their way to the Portiuncula.
+They bring a whole gallery of portraits before our eyes, of brethren
+we read of, the companions of St. Francis; but when we look along the
+path they have taken and see the church of the Angeli standing high in
+the midst of the broad valley, its dome showing dark purple against
+the afternoon light, where we had thought to catch a glimpse of the
+Portiuncula and a circle of mud huts, the dream of the olden time
+fades suddenly away. As we turn to enter the little church of San
+Damiano with the image of the great church of the plain still in our
+thoughts, we feel how much we owe to the reverence of the people and
+the friars who have kept it so simple and unadorned, its big stones
+left rough and weather-beaten as when St. Francis came to prepare a
+dwelling-house for sister Clare. Truly says M. Sabatier, "ce petit
+coin de terre ombrienne sera, pour nos descendants, comme ce puits de
+Jacob ou Jesus s'assit un instant, un des parvis preferes du culte en
+esprit et en verite."
+
+The church is very small and dim, with no frescoed walls or altar
+pictures to arouse the visitor's interest, and only its connection
+with the names of Francis and Clare bring the crowds who come to pray
+here. Even the crucifix which spoke to St. Francis, telling him to
+rebuild the ruined sanctuary, no longer hangs in the choir, but is now
+in the keeping of the nuns in Santa Chiara. A few relics are kept in
+the cupboard--a pectoral cross given by St. Bonaventure, the bell with
+which St. Clare called the sisters to office, her breviary written by
+Brother Leo in his neat, small writing, and the tabernacle of
+alabaster which she held up before the invading host of Saracens upon
+that memorable occasion. There is also a small loaf of bread which
+recalls the well-known story recounted in the _Fioretti_ (cap.
+xxxiii.) of how Pope Innocent IV, came to see St. Clare, "to hear her
+speak of things celestial and divine; and as they were thus
+discoursing together on diverse matters, St. Clare ordered dinner to
+be made ready, and the bread to be laid on the table so that the Holy
+Father might bless it; and when their spiritual conference was
+finished, St. Clare, kneeling most reverently, prayed him to bless the
+bread which was on the table. The Holy Father replied: 'Most faithful
+Sister Clare, I will that thou shouldst bless this bread and make upon
+it the sign of the most blessed Cross of Christ, to whom thou hast so
+entirely given thyself.' St. Clare said: 'Holy Father, pardon me, for
+I should be guilty of too great a presumption if in the presence of
+the Vicar of Christ, I, who am but a miserable woman, should presume
+to give such a benediction.' And the Pope answered: 'That this should
+not be ascribed to presumption, but to the merit of obedience, I
+command thee by holy obedience to make the sign of the Holy Cross on
+this bread, and to bless it in the name of God.' Then St. Clare, as a
+true daughter of obedience, most devoutly blessed that bread with the
+sign of the Holy Cross. And marvellous to say, incontinently on all
+the loaves the sign of the Holy Cross appeared most fairly impressed;
+then of that bread part was eaten and part kept for the miracle's
+sake."
+
+A ring belonging to St. Clare was also kept here, until in the year
+1615 a Spanish franciscan vicar-general with his secretary came to
+visit San Damiano, and such was his devotion for anything that had
+belonged to the saintly abbess that when a few months later the relics
+were being shown to some other visitors, the precious ring was
+missing. A great disturbance arose in the city, and angry letters were
+speedily sent after the Spanish priest as suspicion had fallen upon
+him at once; he did not deny that he had piously stolen the ring, but
+as it was now well upon its way to Spain where, he assured the irate
+Assisans, it would be much honoured and well cared for, he refused to
+return it. The citizens and friars still regret the day that the
+Spanish dignitary and his secretary called at San Damiano.
+
+The small chapel out of the nave was built in the middle of the
+seventeenth century to contain the large Crucifix which is still
+there, and whose story is very famous. In 1634 Brother Innocenzo of
+Palermo was sent to the convent to carve a crucifix for the friars,
+his sanctity and the talent he possessed as an artist being well
+known. After nine days he completed all except the head, and on
+returning next morning after early mass he found that mysterious hands
+had fashioned it during the night; not only was it of wonderful
+workmanship, but looking at it from three different points of view
+three different expressions were seen--of peace, of agony, and of
+death. The fame of the Crucifix spread throughout Umbria, and people
+flocked to San Damiano. "Now, the devil," says a chronicler, "very
+wrath to see such devotion in so many hearts, turned his mind to
+finding out some means of sowing seeds of discord. Through his doing
+there arose in Assisi a whisper that owing to the rapidly growing fame
+of this Crucifix, the ancient one of the cathedral would lose the
+veneration in which it had hitherto been held."
+
+Now before placing the Crucifix of San Damiano in its place over the
+high altar the monks settled that it should be carried in solemn
+procession through Assisi. "But," writes the angry chronicler, "those
+who had joined this diabolical conspiracy against our Crucifix were
+not slow to prevent this, and had recourse to the Inquisitor of
+Perugia, who was induced to send his vicar to stop the procession, and
+bid the monks of San Damiano to keep their Crucifix hidden and allow
+no one to see it." There arose a terrible storm in the troubled
+community of Assisi, between those who took the part of the
+"persecuted Crucifix" and those who sided with the jealous canons of
+the cathedral. Finally, the case was placed before the Pope himself,
+and all waited anxiously the result of his investigations. A duplicate
+of the Crucifix of San Damiano was sent to Rome that it might be well
+examined by the Pope and the whole college of cardinals, and they not
+finding in the pious Brother Innocenzio's work anything contrary to
+the teaching of the gospel, it was unanimously decreed that the
+Crucifix of San Damiano might receive all the homage and love of the
+friars and citizens. So on a burning Sunday in August solemn high mass
+was sung at the altar of St. Clare in San Damiano and, although the
+friars were defrauded of their procession, such was the concourse of
+people who came to gain the plenary indulgence granted by His Holiness
+that the good friars rejoiced, and were comforted for all the
+persecution they had suffered on account of this marvellous Crucifix.
+What must have been the feelings of Brother Innocenzo as he stood by
+the high altar and watched the crowd of worshippers and the women
+lifting up their streaming eyes to the crucifix he had fashioned in
+his cell? The devotion to it grew as the years passed on, and we read
+that a century later the monks were obliged "for their greater quiet
+to transfer it from the choir to the chapel," where it now is, after
+which the monks could say their office in peace. Now we see it
+surrounded with votive offerings, and our guide pours forth an
+incessant stream of praise, and recounts at length numberless
+miracles.
+
+Through the chapel of the Crucifix we reach the choir of St. Clare,
+left as when she used it, with the old worm-eaten stalls against the
+wall. It is probable that originally this was part of the house of the
+priest who had the keeping of San Damiano before the benedictines gave
+it to the Poor Clares; for here is shown the recess in the wall where
+St. Francis hid when his father came to seek for him, and where he is
+supposed to have lived in hiding for a whole month until the storm
+should have blown over. It was for the rebuilding of the chapel that
+he had taken bales of costly stuffs from the Bernardone warehouse in
+Assisi to sell at the fair of Foligno, and thus called forth the wrath
+of Messer Pietro. The good priest of San Damiano was so much
+astonished at this sudden conversion of Francis, that thinking he
+mocked him he refused to accept the purse of gold, which Francis
+finally threw on to a dusty window-sill. But the priest soon became
+his friend, allowing him to remain at San Damiano and partake of such
+humble fare as he could give, joining him in repairing of the poor
+ruined chapel.
+
+An artist of the sixteenth century had sought to adorn the altar with
+a fresco of the Crucifixion which was only discovered a few months
+ago, but the whitewashed walls and severe simplicity of the rest seem
+more in keeping with the place than this crude attempt at decoration.
+By a rough flight of stairs we reach the small private oratory of St.
+Clare, which communicated with her cell and where, in her latter days
+of illness, she was permitted to keep the Blessed Sacrament. The rest
+of the convent being strict "clausura," ever since the Marquess of
+Ripon bought San Damiano from the Italian Government and gave it into
+the keeping of the franciscan friars, can only be seen by men. Within
+is the refectory of St. Clare where Innocent IV, dined with her and
+witnessed the miracle of the loaves, and Eusebio di San Giorgio (1507)
+has painted in the cloister two fine frescoes of the Annunciation and
+St. Francis receiving the Stigmata.
+
+But anyone may step out into the small and charming garden of St.
+Clare which is on a level with her oratory. Walls rising on either
+side leave only a narrow vista of the valley where Bevagna, and
+Montefalco on her hill, can just be seen. Within this small enclosed
+space the saint is said to have taken her daily exercise and carefully
+attended to the flowers, and the friars to this day keep a row of
+flowers there in memory of her. It will be well on leaving the chapel
+of San Damiano to look at the open chapel in the courtyard where
+Tiberio d'Assisi has painted one of his most pleasing compositions.
+The Madonna is seated in an Umbrian valley, low lines of hills fade
+away in the distance, and franciscan saints, among whom St. Jerome
+with his lion seems curiously out of place, surround her, while at her
+feet is placed the kneeling figure of the nun who succeeded St. Clare
+as abbess. It is signed and dated 1517, while the fresco on the
+side-wall of St. Sebastian and St. Roch was painted five years later.
+In another corner of the courtyard, near the entrance, is a painting
+in a niche of the Madonna and saints by some Umbrian artist who felt
+the influence of both Giotto and Simone Martini, so that we have a
+curious, if pleasing result.
+
+
+SANTA CHIARA
+
+St. Clare was no sooner dead than the people, as they had done with
+St. Francis, sought to honour her memory, but in this case, Innocent
+IV, being in Assisi for the consecration of the Franciscan Basilica,
+the funeral service was conducted by the Pope and cardinals. Such a
+gathering of church dignitaries, Assisan nobles, priors and people had
+certainly never been seen in the humble convent of San Damiano; their
+presence, though honouring the saint, filled the hearts of the nuns
+with sorrow for they knew they had come to take the body of St. Clare
+to Assisi. With tears they consented to its being placed in safety in
+San Giorgio, but only on the condition that they might eventually be
+allowed to live near her tomb in some humble shelter. San Damiano
+without her, alive or dead, meant little to them, and they were ready
+to abandon a home of so many memories to go where they and their
+successors could guard her body to the end of time. Devotion to her
+memory and belief in her sanctity was not solely confined to them;
+when the friars rose to intone the service of the dead, Pope Innocent
+signified that there should be silence, and to the wonder of all
+ordered high mass to be sung and the funeral service to be changed
+into one of triumph, in honour of her who he believed was already with
+the Virgins in heaven. It was a kind of canonisation, but could not be
+regarded as valid without the usual preliminaries being performed, and
+the cardinals, more cautious and less enthusiastic than His Holiness,
+persuaded him to wait and in the meanwhile allow the ordinary service
+to proceed. To this he consented, and then amidst music and singing
+the Pope led the people up the hill where years before another saint
+had been borne to the same church of San Giorgio, and as on that day a
+funeral ceremony became a triumphal procession.
+
+Innocent IV, died soon after, and it was Alexander IV, who in
+September 1255, two years after her death, canonized St. Clare in a
+Bull replete with magnificent eulogy in which there is a constant play
+upon her name: "Clara claris praeclara meritis, magnae in coelo
+claritate gloriae, ac in terra miraculorum sublimum clare gaudet ... O
+admiranda Clarae beatae claritas." Another two years were allowed to
+elapse before they began to erect a building to her memory; besides
+the readiness shown by every town to honour their saints, the Assisans
+had especial cause to remember St. Clare, as she had twice saved them
+from the Saracen army of Frederic II. Willingly the magistrates and
+nobles, besides many strangers who had heard of the saint's renown,
+contributed money for the new building, and Fra Filippo Campello the
+minorite was chosen as the architect. Fine as his new work proved to
+be it was rather the copy of a masterpiece than the inspiration of a
+great architect, which makes it more probable that he was only
+employed in completing the church of San Francesco from the designs of
+that first mysterious architect, and not, as some have said, its sole
+builder.
+
+The canons of San Rufino offered the church and hospital of San
+Giorgio which belonged to them. A more fitting site for the church to
+be raised in honour of St. Clare could not have been chosen, for it
+was here that St. Francis had learnt to read and write as a child
+under the guidance of the parish priest; here he preached his first
+sermon, and later touched the heart of Clare by his words during the
+lenten services; and here both of them were laid in their stone urns
+until their last resting places were ready. So around the little old
+parish church with its many memories, and within sight of the Scifi
+palace, arose "as if by magic" the new temple with its tall and
+slender campanile. The hospital enlarged and improved became the
+convent, and the church was used by the nuns as a choir, the rest of
+the large building, which they could only see through iron gratings,
+being for the use of the congregation. With its alternate layers of
+pink and cream-coloured stone, wheel window and finely modelled door,
+the church fits well into its sunny piazza, and is a beautiful ending
+to the eastern side of Assisi. But in building it Fra Filippo forgot
+the crumbling nature of the soil, and failed to overcome the
+difficulty of position as had been done so admirably at San Francesco,
+so that in 1351 it became necessary to prop up the sides by strong
+flying buttresses, which, while serving as an imposing arched entrance
+to the side of the church, sadly detract from the feeling of solidity
+of the main building. A darker stone with no rosy tints was used for
+the convent, which makes it look very grim and old as it rises out of
+a soft and silvery setting of olive trees on the hillside, with
+orchards near of peaches and almonds. There is a great charm in the
+brown, weather-beaten convent, though a certain sadness when we
+remember, in looking at its tiny windows like holes in the wall
+through which only narrow vistas of the beautiful valley can be seen,
+how changed must be the lives of these cloistered nuns from those of
+the Poor Ladies of San Damiano in the time of St. Clare. They are now
+an order of the orthodox type, an order given to prayer and not to
+labour, and seeing no human face from the outside world except through
+an iron grating. So early as 1267 their connection with the franciscan
+brotherhood ceased; the brethren no longer heard their confessions or
+begged for them through the land as St. Francis had decreed; they
+lived under the patronage of the Pope, who declared their convent to
+be under the especial jurisdiction of the Holy See, and on the feast
+of St. Francis called upon the nuns to send a pound of wax candles in
+sign of tribute. As the Pope had often in olden times become master of
+Assisi so now he obtained the rule over her monastic institutions,
+gaining the temporal allegiance of the religious, as he had gained
+that of the citizens.
+
+  [Illustration: SANTA CHIARA]
+
+Upon entering the church of Santa Chiara out of the sunshine, we are
+struck with a sense of the coldness of its scant ornamentation, a want
+of colour, and a general idea that artists in first directing their
+steps to San Francesco had not had time to give much thought to the
+church of the gentle saint. Giottino is said by Vasari to have painted
+frescoes here, and they may be those ruined bits of colour in the
+right transept where it is only possible to distinguish a few heads or
+parts of figures here and there in what seems to be a procession,
+perhaps the Translation of St. Clare from San Damiano to San Giorgio.
+It is said that their present condition of ruin is due to the German
+bishop Spader who, fearing that the nuns might see too much of the
+world through the narrow grating because of the number of people who
+came to see the frescoes, had them whitewashed in the seventeenth
+century. The people came less, the nuns were safer, but Giottino's (?)
+frescoes are lost to us and we do not bless the memory of the German
+bishop of Assisi. The frescoes of the ceiling he did not touch, and
+we have in them some interesting work of an artist of the fourteenth
+century whose name is unknown, but who undoubtedly followed the
+Giottesque traditions, though not with the fidelity or the genius of
+the artist who painted the legend of St. Nicholas in San Francesco. In
+decorating the four spandrels he has been influenced by the allegories
+of Giotto, and the angels are grouped round the principal figures in
+much the same manner; they kneel, some with hands crossed upon their
+breasts, but they are silent worshippers with not a single instrument
+among them. The saints who stand in the midst of the angels in Gothic
+tabernacles are the Madonna with a charming Infant Jesus who grasps
+her mantle, and St. Clare; St. Cecilia crowned with roses, and St.
+Lucy; St. Agnes holding a lamb, and St. Rose of Viterbo; St.
+Catherine, and St. Margaret with a book in her hand. The artist has
+used such soft harmonious colours and bordered his frescoes with such
+pretty medallions of saints' heads and designs of foliage that one
+wishes he had been given the whole church to decorate and thus saved
+it from its present desolate appearance.
+
+The large crucifix behind the altar, a characteristic work of that
+time, has been ascribed to Margaritone, Giunta Pisano, or Cimabue. It
+was painted, as the inscription says, by the order of the abbess
+Benedicta, who succeeded St. Clare and was the first to rule in the
+new convent, but the artist did not sign his name. The chapel of St.
+Agnes contains a Madonna which Herr Thode with far-seeing eyes
+recognises through all its layers of modern paint as Cimabue's work.
+There is also a much retouched, but rather charming picture of St.
+Clare, painted according to its inscription in 1283. She stands in her
+heavy brown dress and mantle, a thick cord round her waist, and on
+either side are scenes from her life. The small triptych of the
+Crucifixion on a gold ground is an interesting work by the artist of
+the four frescoes of the ceiling, and a nearer view of some of the
+peculiarities of his style is obtained. It is impossible to mistake
+the long slender necks, the curiously shaped ears with the upper part
+very long, the narrow eyes, straight noses and small mouths, sometimes
+drooping slightly at the corners, which he gives his figures. He is
+another of those nameless painters who came to Assisi in the wake of
+the great Florentine.
+
+The visitor would leave Santa Chiara with a feeling of disappointment
+were it not for the chapel of San Giorgio, the original place so often
+mentioned in connection with St. Francis and now open to the public.
+The crucifix of the tenth century, so famous for having bowed its head
+to St. Francis in the church of San Damiano bidding him to repair the
+ruined churches of Assisi, is to be removed from the parlour, where it
+is temporarily kept, and placed behind the altar. The chapel, with a
+groined roof, is square, small and of perfect form, and ornamented
+with several frescoes. On the left wall is a delightful St. George
+fighting the dragon in the presence of a tall princess, her face
+showing very white against her red hair. There is a naive scene of the
+Magi, whose sleeves are as long and whose hands are as spidery as
+those of the princess; and above is an Annunciation. Behind the
+curtain in the fresco a small child is standing who is evidently the
+donor, but some people believe he represents the Infant Jesus, which
+certainly would account for the surprised attitude of the Virgin. This
+wall was painted in the sixteenth century by some artist of the Gubbio
+school, but his name we have been unable to discover. Quite a
+different character marks the frescoes upon the next wall, which would
+seem to be the work of an Umbrian scholar of Simone Martini, or at
+least by one more influenced by the Sienese than the Florentine
+masters. There is a softness and an ivory tone in the paintings of the
+saints, a languid look in their eyes, a sweetness about the mouth
+peculiar to the Umbrian followers of Simone, who like him succeed less
+well with male than with female saints. Here the Madonna, seated on a
+Gothic throne against a crimson dais, with a broad forehead and blue
+eyes, her soft veil falling in graceful folds about her slender neck,
+is unusually charming. The St. George with his shield is perhaps less
+disappointing than St. Francis, but then Simone fails to quite express
+the nature of the Seraphic Preacher. We turn to St. Clare of the oval
+face and clear brown eyes, and feel that the painter had a subject
+which appealed to him, even to the brown habit and black veil which
+makes the face seem more delicate and fair. Above are the Crucifixion,
+Entombment and Resurrection, suggesting in the strained attitudes of
+the figures a follower of Pietro Lorenzetti. Some remains of frescoes
+upon the next wall resemble those in the nave of the Lower Church, and
+probably also belong to the second half of the thirteenth century.
+Indeed the architecture of the chapel bears a striking resemblance to
+San Francesco, so that although this is the original building of San
+Giorgio which existed long before the Franciscan Basilica, it was in
+all probability remodelled by Fra Campello, who may have given it the
+pretty groined roof.
+
+But above all the works of art and all the views of church or convent,
+the pious pilgrim treasures the privilege of being able to gaze upon
+the body of the saint in the crypt below the high altar reached by a
+broad flight of marble stairs. St. Clare had been buried so far out of
+sight and reach that her tomb was only found in the year 1850, after
+much search had been made. Five bishops, with Cardinal Pecci, now
+Pope Leo XIII, and the magistrates of the town, were present at the
+opening of the sepulchre; the iron bars which bound it were filed
+asunder, and the body of the saint was found lying clad in her brown
+habit as if buried but a little while since; the wild thyme which her
+companions had sprinkled round her six hundred years ago, withered as
+it was, still sent up a sweet fragrance, while a few green and tender
+leaves are said to have been clinging to her veil. So great was the
+joy at discovering this precious relic that a procession was organised
+"with pomp impossible to describe."
+
+  [Illustration: SANTA CHIARA FROM NEAR THE PORTA MOJANO]
+
+On the Sunday at dawn every bell commenced to ring calling the people
+to high mass, and never, says a proud chronicler, were so many bishops
+and such a crowd seen as upon that day. At the elevation of the Host
+the bells pealed forth again announcing the solemn moment to the
+neighbouring villages; soon after the procession was formed of lay
+confraternities, priests and friars, and little children dressed as
+angels strewed the way with flowers. The peasants, with tears raining
+down their cheeks, pressed near the coffin, and had to be kept back by
+some of the Austrian soldiers then quartered in Assisi. First they
+went to the Cathedral, then to San Francesco, "the body of St. Clare
+thus going to salute the body of her great master. Oh admirable
+disposition of God." It was evening before they returned to the church
+of Santa Chiara, where the nuns anxiously awaited them at the entrance
+of their cloister to place the body of their foundress in the chapel
+of San Giorgio until a sanctuary should be built beneath the high
+altar. It was soon finished, ornamented with Egyptian alabaster and
+Italian marbles, and the body of St. Clare was laid there to be
+venerated by the faithful.
+
+As pilgrims stand before a grating in the dimly lighted crypt the
+gentle rustle of a nun's dress is heard; slowly invisible hands draw
+the curtain aside, and St. Clare is seen lying in a glass case upon a
+satin bed, her face clearly outlined against her black and white
+veils, whilst her brown habit is drawn in straight folds about her
+body. She clasps the book of her Rule in one hand, and in the other
+holds a lily with small diamonds shining on the stamens. The silence
+is unbroken save for the gentle clicking of the rosary beads slipping
+through the fingers of the invisible nun who keeps watch, and as she
+lets the curtain down again and blows out the lights there is a
+feeling that we have intruded upon the calm sleep of the "Seraphic
+Mother."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[101] As the hated enemies of the Baglioni the Fiumi are often
+mentioned in the chronicles of Matarazzo, and they played an important
+part in the history of their native city. They were Counts of
+Sterpeto, and the village of that name on the hill to the west of
+Assisi above the banks of the Chiaggio still belongs to the family.
+
+[102] One of the first of the franciscans was Rufino, a nephew of
+Count Favorino's, whose holiness was such that in speaking of him to
+the other brethren St. Francis would call him St. Rufino.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+_Other Buildings in the Town_
+
+   The Cathedral of San Rufino. Roman Assisi. The Palazzo Pubblico.
+   The Chiesa Nuova. S. Paolo. Sta. Maria Maggiore. S. Quirico. S.
+   Appolinare. S. Pietro. The Confraternities (Chiesa dei
+   Pellegrini, etc.). The Castle.
+
+
+Assisi is the only town we know of in Italy where the interest does
+not centre round its cathedral and a certain sadness is felt, which
+perhaps is not difficult to explain; St. Francis holds all in his
+spell now just as he held the people long ago, so that the saints who
+first preached Christianity to the Assisans, were martyred and brought
+honour to the city, are almost forgotten and their churches deserted.
+The citizens, though proud of their Duomo, with its beautiful brown
+facade, hardly appear to love it, and we have often thought that they
+too feel the sense of gloom and isolation in the small piazza, which
+makes it a place ill-fitted to linger in for long. Men come and go so
+silently, women fill their pitchers at the fountain but only the
+splashing of water is heard, and they quickly disappear down a street;
+even the houses have no life, for while the windows are open no one
+looks out, and the total absence of flowers gives them a further look
+of desolation. This part of the town was already old in mediaeval
+times, and the far away mystery of an age which has few records still
+lives around the cathedral and its bell tower. San Rufino stands in
+the very centre of Roman Assisi and its history begins very soon
+after the Roman era, one might say was contemporary with it, as the
+saint whose name it bears, was martyred in the reign of Diocletian.
+All the details of his death, together with the charming legend about
+the building of the cathedral, come down to us in a hymn by St. Peter
+Damian, who, although writing in 1052 of things which it is true
+happened long before, had very likely learnt the traditions about it
+from the Assisans while he lived in his mountain hermitage near
+Gubbio. The story goes back to the time when the Roman consul of
+Assisi received orders to stamp out the fast-spreading roots of
+Christianity, and began his work by putting to death St. Rufino, the
+pastor of the tiny flock. The soldiers hurried the Bishop down to the
+river Chiaggio and, after torturing him in horrible fashion, flung him
+into the water with a heavy stone round his neck. Some say that the
+Emperor Diocletian came in person to see his orders carried out. That
+night the Assisan Christians stole down to the valley to rescue the
+body of their Bishop and place it in safety within the castle of
+Costano, which still stands in the fields close to the river but
+almost hidden by the peasant houses built around it. Here, in a marble
+sarcophagus he rested, cared for and protected by each succeeding
+generation of Christians who had learned from tradition to love his
+memory, and secretly they visited the castle in the plain to pray by
+the tomb of the martyred saint. Their vigilance continued until the
+fifth century, when the Christians had already begun to burn the Pagan
+temples and build churches of their own. Christianity, indeed, spread
+so rapidly throughout Umbria that other towns cultivated a love for
+relics, and fearing that the body of St. Rufino might be stolen from
+the castle in the open country, the Assisans took the first
+opportunity of bringing it within the town. In the year 412 Bishop
+Basileo, with his clergy and congregation met at Costano, to seek
+through prayer some inspiration so that they might know where to take
+the body of their saint. As they knelt by his tomb an old man of
+venerable aspect suddenly appeared among them, and spoke these words
+in the Lord's name: "Take," he said, "two heifers which have not felt
+the yoke, and harness them to a car whereon you shall lay the body of
+St. Rufino. Follow the road taken by the heifers and where they stop,
+there, in his honour shall ye build a church." These words were
+faithfully obeyed: the heifers, knowing what they were to do, turned
+towards Assisi, and brought the relics, through what is now the Porta
+S. Pietro, to that portion of the old town known as the "Good Mother"
+because the goddess Ceres is said to be buried there. The heifers then
+turned slowly round, faced the Bishop and his people, and refused to
+move. For some obscure reason the place did not please the Assisans,
+and they began to build a church further up the hill; but every
+morning they found the walls, which had been erected during the
+preceding day, pulled down, until discouraged, they submitted to the
+augury, and returned to the spot chosen by the heifers. Before long,
+over the tomb of the Roman goddess, arose the first Christian church
+of Assisi, dedicated to San Rufino.
+
+  [Illustration: CAMPANILE OF SAN RUFINO]
+
+A few years ago the late Canon Elisei who has written many interesting
+pamphlets on the cathedral, obtained permission from the government to
+clear away the rubble beneath the present church; masses of Roman
+inscriptions and pieces of sculpture were brought to light, together
+with part of the primitive church of Bishop Basileo, and the whole of
+what is known as the Chiesa Ugonia, from the Bishop of that name who
+built it in 1028. With lighted torches the visitor can descend to the
+primitive basilica and realise what a peaceful spot had been chosen
+for this early place of worship, while picturing the Christians as
+they knelt round the body of their Bishop, the light falling dimly
+upon them through the narrow Lombard windows. The six columns, with
+their varied capitals rising straight from the ground without the
+support of bases, give a somewhat funereal aspect, recalling a crypt
+rather than a church. The few vestiges of frescoes in the apse--St.
+Mark and his lion, and St. Costanso, Bishop of Perugia--are said to
+be, with the paintings in S. Celso at Verona, the oldest in Italy
+after those in the catacombs at Rome. Ruins of other frescoes, perhaps
+of the same date, can be traced above the door of the first basilica,
+together with some stone-work in low relief of vine leaves and grapes,
+but it is difficult to see them without going behind a column built in
+total disregard of this lower building. The Roman sarcophagus is still
+in the apse where the altar once stood, but open and neglected, for
+the body of St. Rufino now lies beneath the altar of the present
+cathedral. It is ornamented in rough high relief with the story of
+Endymion; Diana steps from her chariot towards the sleeping shepherd,
+Pomona has her arms full of fruit and flowers, and there are nymphs
+and little gods of love and sleep. "It appeared to us," remarks one
+prudish chronicler of the church, "the first time we beheld it, that
+it was indecent to have present before the eyes of the faithful so
+unseemly a fable; our scruples we however laid aside in remembering
+that Holy Church is endowed with the power of purging from temples,
+altars and urns, all pagan abominations, and from superstition to turn
+them to the true service of God." No such scruples existed during the
+early times, and there is an amusing story of how the people wishing
+to place the marble sarcophagus, which had been left at Costano five
+centuries before, in the Chiesa Ugonia, were prevented by the Bishop
+who admired it, and had given orders that it should be brought to his
+palace at Sta. Maria Maggiore. A great tumult arose in the town, but
+although the people came to blows and the fight was serious on both
+sides, no blood was shed. A further miracle took place when the
+Bishop, determined to have his way, sent sixty men down to Costano who
+were unable to move the sarcophagus which remained as though rooted in
+the earth; and the event was the more remarkable as seven men
+afterwards brought it at a run up the hill to the church of San
+Rufino, where it remains to this day.
+
+Already two basilicas had been built in honour of the saint, but the
+Assisans dissatisfied with their size and magnificence, in the year
+1134 called in the most famous architect of the day, Maestro Giovanni
+of Gubbio, who before his death in 1210 had all but completed the
+present cathedral and campanile. It is a great surprise when, emerging
+from the narrow street leading from the Piazza Minerva thinking to
+have seen all that is loveliest in Assisi, we suddenly catch sight of
+the cathedral and its bell-tower. The rough brown stone which Maestro
+Giovanni has so beautifully worked into delicately rounded columns,
+cornices, rose-windows and doors with fantastic beasts, sometimes
+looks as dark as a capucin's habit, but there are moments in the late
+afternoon when all the warmth of the sun's rays sinks into it,
+radiating hues of golden orange which as suddenly deepen to dark brown
+again as the light dies away behind the Perugian hills.
+
+All three doors are fine with their quaint ornaments of birds and
+beasts and flowers, but upon the central one Giovanni expended all his
+art. It is framed in by a double pattern of water-lilies and leaves,
+of human faces, beasts, penguins and other birds with a colour in
+their wings like tarnished gold. The red marble lions which guard the
+entrance, with long arched necks and symmetrical curls, a human figure
+between their paws, may belong to an even earlier period, and perhaps
+were taken by Giovanni da Gubbio from the Chiesa Ugonia to decorate
+his facade, together with the etruscan-looking figures of God the
+Father, the Virgin and St. Rufino in the lunette above. Just below the
+windows a long row of animals, such pre-historic beasts as may have
+walked upon Subasio when no man was there to interrupt their passage,
+seem to move in endless procession, and look down with faces one has
+seen in dreams.
+
+  [Illustration: DOOR OF SAN RUFINO]
+
+The interior of the cathedral is a disappointment; at first we accuse
+the great Maestro Giovanni for this painful collection of truncated
+lines and inharmonious shapes, until we find how utterly his work was
+ruined in the sixteenth century by Galeazzo Alessi of Perugia. To
+understand what the church was five centuries before Alessi came, it
+is necessary to climb the campanile (only those who are attracted by
+ricketty ladders and dizzy heights are advised to make the trial), and
+when nearly half way up step out on to Alessi's roof, whence we can
+view the havoc he has made. But he could not spoil Giovanni's
+rose-windows, and through one of them we see the castle on its green
+hill and the town below, cut into sections as though we were looking
+at the Umbrian world through a kaleidoscope.
+
+The outside of San Rufino is so lovely that we should be inclined to
+advise none to enter, and thus spoil the impression it makes, were it
+not for the triptych by Niccolo da Foligno, "the first painter in whom
+the emotional, now passionate and violent, now mystic and estatic,
+temperament of St. Francis' countrymen was revealed."[103] Here we
+find a dreamy Madonna with flaxen hair, surrounded by tiny angels even
+fairer than herself in crimson and golden garments folded about their
+hips. The lunettes above are studded with patches of jewel-colour,
+angels spreading their pointed wings upwards as they seem to be wafted
+to and fro by a breeze. Four tall and serious saints stand round the
+Virgin like columns; to the right St. Peter Damian busily writing in a
+book, and St. Marcello, an Assisan martyr of the fourth century who
+might pass for a typical Italian priest of the present day. On the
+left is St. Rufino in the act of giving his pastoral blessing, and
+St. Esuberanzio, another of Assisi's early martyrs, holding a missal.
+They stand in a meadow thickly overgrown with flowers drawn with all
+Niccolo's firm outline and love of detail. Fine as the picture is, it
+cannot compare with the charming predella where the artist has worked
+with the delicacy of a miniature painter. It represents the martyrdom
+of St. Rufino; in the first small compartment the Roman soldiers on
+horseback, their lances held high in the air, followed by a group of
+prying boys, watch the Bishop's tortures as the flames shoot up around
+him; and in the distance are two small hill-towns with the towers of
+Costano in the plain. Then follows the scene where two young Assisan
+Christians have come down to the Chiaggio to rescue the body of their
+saint from the river. He lies stiffly in their arms, attired in his
+episcopal vestments, and the water has sucked the long folds of his
+cope below its surface. The last represents the procession of citizens
+led by Bishop Basileo bringing St. Rufino's body from Costano, and is
+one of the most exquisite bits of Umbrian painting. Niccolo has placed
+the scene in early morning, the air is keen among the mountains, the
+sun has just reached Assisi, seen against the white slopes of Subasio,
+and turns its houses to a rosy hue, while the tiny wood in the plain
+is still in deepest shadow. The white-robed acolytes mount the hill in
+the sunlight followed by the people and the heifers which ought,
+Niccolo has forgotten, according to the legend, to have led the way.
+The picture is signed Opus Nicholai De Fuligneo MCCCCLX.
+
+The only other fine things in the cathedral are the stalls of intarsia
+work of carved wood, by Giovanni di Pier Giacomo da San Severino
+(1520), a pupil of the man who executed the far finer stalls in San
+Francesco. In the chapel of the Madonna del Pianto is a curious
+wooden statue of the Pieta, how old and whether of the Italian or
+French school it is difficult to say. A tablet records that in 1494
+because of the great dissensions in the town this Madonna was seen to
+weep, for which she has been much honoured, as is shown by the
+innumerable ex-votos hung by the faithful round her altar.
+
+  [Illustration: THE DOME AND APSE OF SAN RUFINO FROM THE CANON'S
+  GARDEN]
+
+The marble statue of St. Francis is by the French artist, M. Dupre (a
+replica in bronze stands in the Piazza), while that of St. Clare is by
+his daughter, who both generously gave their work to Assisi in 1882.
+The statue of St. Rufino is by another Frenchman, M. Lemoyne.
+
+The proudest possession of San Rufino is the font in which St.
+Francis, St. Clare, St. Agnes and Frederick II, were baptised, and the
+stone is shown upon which the angel knelt, who in the disguise of a
+pilgrim assisted at the baptism of Assisi's saint. Often did Francis
+come to San Rufino to preach when the small church of S. Giorgio could
+no longer hold the crowds who flocked to hear him, and the hut where
+the saint spent his nights in prayer and meditation before he preached
+in the cathedral is now a chapel. This was the place of the miracle
+when his companions at Rivo-Torto saw him descend towards them in a
+chariot of fire (see p. 238). In the time of the saint it was the
+cottage of a market-gardener and still stands amidst a vineyard, one
+of the prettiest and sunniest spots in the town, where vines, onions,
+wild flowers and cherry trees grow in happy confusion, and birds and
+peasants sing all day long.
+
+The charm of the Cathedral is best realised after witnessing one of
+its many ceremonies, when the canons in crimson and purple,
+processions of scarlet clothed boys swinging censers, and the Bishop
+seated beneath a canopy of yellow damask his cope drawn stiffly to the
+ground by a fussing acolyte, recall some of the magnificence of the
+middle ages. The young priests bow low before the Bishop on their way
+to the altar, return to their seats and bow again; incense fills the
+church; the organ peals half drown the tenor's song, and through it
+all, from the stalls, drone the voices of the canons reciting their
+office. It is a gorgeous service but without a congregation, for even
+the beggars have not stolen in; and Niccolo's Madonna looks out upon
+the scene with big soft eyes which seem to follow us into the darkest
+corners of the aisles.
+
+
+ROMAN ASSISI.
+
+Assisi is so much a place of one idea--of one interest--around which
+everything has grown, that it is difficult to remember that a fairly
+important town existed in Roman times, and that the Roman buildings,
+still to be seen are, in the opinion of Mr Freeman, worth a visit even
+if the church of San Francesco had never arisen. Some pleasant hours
+may be passed finding the sites of pagan monuments, the remains of
+ancient walls, and tracing the outline of the original town. In every
+case we see how Roman Assisi has, in a very marked way, become part of
+Mediaeval Assisi, palaces having been erected upon the foundations of
+Roman houses and Christian churches upon the sites of ancient temples.
+The Temple of Hercules stood at the bend of Via S. Quirico (now Via
+Garibaldi) where it turns up to the ancient palace of the Scifi; while
+the Porta Mojano, near which old walls and part of an aqueduct can be
+seen, took its name from a temple of Janus which stood between it and
+the Vescovado. Standing a little off the Piazza Nuova, in a part of
+the town known as the "Gorga," are the remains of the amphitheatre. It
+would be difficult to find much of the original edifice, but houses
+having been built exactly on the ancient site its shape has been
+preserved, and this strange medley of old and new was thought worthy
+of a doric entrance gate by Galeazzo Alessi. Much the same thing has
+happened with many of the castles in the country near Assisi, where
+the peasant houses are grouped round them in such a way that only by
+penetrating into the midst of a tangled mass of dwellings can the
+vestige of a tower be here and there discerned to remind us of its
+former state. Assisi, though of no military importance at that time,
+aspired to become a little Roman town even more perfect than her
+neighbours on the hills. The broad and strongly built drain which
+extends from near the Porta Perlici beneath the Piazza Nuova to the
+garden behind San Rufino, is said to have been used to carry off the
+water from the amphitheatre after the mimic sea-fights which in Roman
+times were so popular. A use was found for all things, and in time of
+war a Roman drain proved a most efficient means of escape, especially
+when the Baglioni were raiding the town and putting to death all they
+met upon their road.
+
+Some small remains of a Roman theatre are to be seen near the
+cathedral but so buried amidst a wild garden that it is difficult to
+form any just idea of its extent. The most splendid piece of masonry,
+a Roman cistern, lies beneath the campanile of the cathedral and can
+be easily looked into by the light of a torch, the sacristan even
+suggests a descent into its dark depths by means of a rickety ladder.
+An inscription recording the proud fact that Assisi possessed an
+amphitheatre has been removed to the cathedral where it is placed
+above the side entrance to the left. Other large portions of Roman
+walls are to be found at the back of a shop in the Via Portica and
+also in the Via San Paolo; both are marked upon the map. In those days
+the town seems to have been identical with what we now call old
+Assisi, namely the quarter round San Rufino extending to the portion
+round San Francescuccio where are noticed the arched Lombard windows.
+
+But by far the most interesting record of this early age is the Temple
+of Minerva, which in spite of the damage done when it was turned into
+a church, and the way in which the mediaeval buildings are crowded
+round it, yet remains one of the most beautiful of ancient monuments.
+The raising of the Piazza makes it difficult to realise, without going
+below ground, how imposing the temple must have been when its steps
+led straight down to the Forum. This can be reached by descending from
+the Piazza into the "scavi," or excavations, where stands the great
+altar with drains for the blood of the victims; the long inscription
+giving the name of the donor of the Temple runs:
+
+GAL. TETTIENVS PARDALAS ET TETTIENA GALENE TETTRASTILVM SVA PECVNIA
+FECERVNT, ITEM SIMVLACRA CASTORIS ET POLLVCIS. MVNICIPIBVS
+ASISINATIBVS DONO DEDER. ET DEDICATIONE EPVLVM DECVRIONIBVS SING. XV.
+SEVIR. XIII. PLEBI X. DEDERVNT. S.C.L.D.
+
+It is well known that Goethe went to Assisi solely to see the Temple,
+and surprised the citizens by going straight down the hill again
+without stopping to visit San Francesco. He wished to keep unimpaired
+the impression this perfect piece of classical architecture had made
+upon his mind, and we cannot refrain from translating his enthusiastic
+description of it for these pages.
+
+"From Palladio and Volkmann I had gathered that a beautiful temple of
+Minerva, of the time of Augustus, was still standing and perfectly
+preserved. Asking a good-looking youth where Maria della Minerva was,
+he led me up through the city which stands on a hill. At length we
+reached the oldest part of the town, and I beheld the noble building
+standing before me, the first complete monument of ancient days that I
+had seen. A modest temple as befitted so small a town, yet so perfect,
+so finely conceived, that its beauty would strike one anywhere. But
+above all its position! Since reading in Vitruvius and Palladio how
+cities ought to be built and temples and other public edifices
+situated, I have a great respect for these things.... The temple
+stands half way up the mountain, just where two hills meet together,
+on a piazza which to this day is called the Piazza.... In old times
+there were probably no houses opposite to prevent the view. Abolish
+them in imagination, and one would look towards the south over a most
+fertile land, whilst the sanctuary of Minerva would be visible from
+everywhere. Probably the plan of the streets dates from long ago as
+they follow the conformation and sinuosities of the mountain. The
+temple is not in the centre of the Piazza, but is so placed that a
+striking, though fore-shortened, view of it is obtained by the
+traveller coming from Rome. Not only should the building itself be
+drawn but also its fine position. I could not gaze my full of the
+facade; how harmonious and genial is the conception of the artist....
+Unwillingly I tore myself away, and determined to draw the attention
+of all architects to it so that correct drawings may be made; for once
+again have I been convinced that tradition is untrustworthy. Palladio,
+on whom I relied, gives us, it is true, a picture of this temple, but
+he cannot have seen it, as he actually places pedestals on the level
+whereby the columns are thrown up too high, and we have an ugly
+Palmyrian monstrosity instead of what is a tranquil, charming object,
+satisfying to both the eye and the understanding. It is impossible to
+describe the deep impression I received from the contemplation of this
+edifice, and it will produce everlasting fruit."[104]
+
+
+S. PAOLO[105]
+
+A little off the Piazza della Minerva is the old Benedictine church
+dedicated to St. Paolo, erected in 1074, when it probably stood alone
+with its monastery and not, as now, wedged in with other houses.
+Built in the very heart of Roman Assisi, its foundations rest upon
+solid walls of travertine, where a secret passage reaches to the
+castle. In this part of the town there are several underground
+passages spreading out in various directions, reminding us of the
+insecurity of life in the early times when Pagan consuls persecuted
+the weaker Christian sect. Just within the doorway of the church, now
+alas thickly coated with whitewash, is an ionic column belonging to
+some building of importance which must have stood within the Forum.
+Few people visit S. Paolo as it is only mentioned in local
+guide-books, and the passing stranger is generally told that there is
+nothing to see which is borne out by the modesty of its exterior; but
+no lover of the early Umbrian school who has the time to spare should
+fail to step in, if only for a moment, as on a wall to the left of the
+entrance is a large fresco by Matteo da Gualdo. He has signed the date
+in the corner--1475--though not his name, but it would be difficult to
+mistake so characteristic a work of this delightful painter. The
+Virgin, tall and stately, is accompanied by St. Lucy, who holds her
+eyes upon a dish and is clothed in a richly coloured orange gown
+falling in heavy folds about her; on the other side is St. Ansano, the
+patron of the Sienese, looking in his elegant green jacket, trimmed
+with fur, more like a courtier than a holy martyr. He holds his lungs
+in one hand, because he is a patron of people suffering from
+consumption, but why we know not, as there was nothing in the way he
+met his death in the river Arbia by the order of Diocletian to explain
+the presence of this strange symbol. He stands in Matteo's fresco very
+daintily by the Madonna's side, pointing her out to the small donor
+who is seen kneeling in a doorway. The colour is deep, perhaps a
+little crude, and if the figures may seem somewhat stiff and their
+draperies angular, all such defects are amply redeemed by the small
+angels on the arch above, who composedly gaze down upon the Madonna as
+they sing and play to her.
+
+
+PALAZZO PUBBLICO OR PALAZZO COMMUNALE
+
+In the beginning of the thirteenth century the civil affairs of Assisi
+had assumed such large proportions that it was found impossible to
+transact business in unsheltered quarters of the piazza as had
+hitherto been done, and the citizens determined to build a Palazzo
+Pubblico. Other towns were rising to municipal importance, notably
+Perugia whose palace for her priors proved a beautiful example of a
+gothic building, while Assisi was directing all efforts to adorn her
+churches. A house was bought belonging to the same Benedictine abbot
+of Mount Subasio, who had given the humble dwellings to St. Francis,
+and on its site they erected the present municipal palace, which was
+enlarged in 1275 and again in the fifteenth century, but it always
+remained a humble building with little pretensions to fine
+architecture. Here the priors and the consuls ruled the citizens in
+the absence of a despot, while in the palace of the Capitano del
+Popolo (now the residence of the Carabinieri), whose tower dates from
+1276, the council of the citizens met to check the tyranny of the
+governing faction. These municipal magnates lived upon opposite sides
+of the Piazza, and acted as a drag upon each other in civil matters.
+The many small towns, villages and castles which were beneath the yoke
+of Assisi in mediaeval times have been represented by a modern artist
+in the entrance hall of the Palazzo Pubblico, and are a happy record
+of her days of conquest and prosperity, which are duly remembered by
+the citizens. There is also a picture by Sermei of St. Francis
+blessing Assisi from the plain which, painted in the sixteenth
+century, is interesting as a likeness of the town at that time. There
+is also a picture of Elias hung upon the wall, intended as a portrait
+and not as an object for popular devotion. An effort has been made to
+adapt one of the rooms as a gallery of Umbrian art, and a few frescoes
+taken from walls and convents and transferred to canvas are preserved
+here, giving some idea, notwithstanding their ruined condition, of the
+liberal way in which Umbrian artists distributed their work in every
+corner of the town. The gateway of S. Giacomo exposed to constant sun,
+wind and rain, was yet thought a fitting place for Fiorenzo di Lorenzo
+to paint a fresco of a beautiful Madonna. It now looks sadly out of
+place in this room of the Municipio with a little paper ticket on the
+corner of the canvas marking it as No. 17. The half figures of angels,
+No. 23 and No. 24, by Matteo da Gualdo, were taken from the
+Confraternity of S. Crispino together with No. 21. From the Chiesa dei
+Pellegrini came No. 5, the Madonna and Saints by Ottaviano Nelli of
+Gubbio; while No. 6, a Madonna, with angels holding a red damask
+curtain behind her, was found at the fountain of Mojano and is
+attributed to Tiberio d'Assisi. That mysterious painter L'Ingegno
+d'Assisi may be the author of No. 12. Vasari recounts how he learnt
+his art in the workshop of Perugino in company with Raphael, and even
+helped his master in the Cambio frescoes. His real name was Andrea
+Aloisi, the nickname of Ingegno arising from the fact that he was
+looked up to by his fellow citizens as a very remarkable man, for not
+only could he paint beautiful Madonnas but he was a distinguished
+Procurator, Arbitrator, Syndic and Camerlingo Apostolico. But to try
+and trace his work is like following a will-o'-the-wisp, for no sooner
+do we hear of a fresco by him than it eventually turns out to be by
+Fiorenzo di Lorenzo or by Adone Doni, and this fresco in the Municipio
+is the only one in Assisi which may be by him. If it is, Tiberio
+d'Assisi would seem to have been his master and not Perugino.
+
+In the same room is a small but interesting painting in fresco (No.
+87), the figure of a winged Mercury, which was excavated a few years
+ago in the Casa Rocchi, via Cristofani. In another room is the head of
+a saint which some believe to be also of Roman times, but a good
+authority attributes it to a late follower of Raphael. The saint's
+head is seen against a shadowy blue landscape, and like all Umbrian
+things has an indescribable charm, a feeling that the artist loved the
+valleys in spring-time, and tried to convey some of the soft colour of
+the young corn and budding trees into the picture he was painting.
+
+
+THE CHIESA NUOVA
+
+A little below the Piazza della Minerva is the Chiesa Nuova, built at
+the expense of Philip III, of Spain in 1615 by the Assisan artist
+Giorgetti and finished in seven years. Few people come to Assisi
+without visiting it, for although containing nothing of artistic
+value, it stands upon the site of the Casa Bernardone, and recalls
+many incidents of St. Francis' life. The small door is shown through
+which Madonna Pica passed when the angel disguised as a pilgrim told
+her that her son was to be born in a stable, and we see part of the
+cell where St. Francis endured such cruel imprisonment from his
+father, until his mother in the absence of Messer Pietro let him out
+to return to his haunts at San Damiano and the Carceri.[106] Other
+places preserve more of the charm of the saint than the Chiesa Nuova.
+
+Two buildings in the town are intimately connected with St. Francis,
+his father's shop in the Via Portica the entrance of which the
+sculptor of St. Bernardino's door at the franciscan convent has
+adorned with a beautiful pattern of flowers, shields and cupids; and
+the house of Bernard of Quintavalle which is reached from this street
+by the Via S. Gregorio. It is now the Palazzo Sbaraglini and has no
+doubt been much enlarged since the thirteenth century, but the little
+old door above a flight of steps bears the unmistakable stamp of age;
+it leads into a long vaulted room, now a chapel, which there seems
+every reason to believe was the one where Bernard, the rich noble,
+invited St. Francis to stay with him at a time when he doubted his
+sanctity. The story is too long to quote and extracts would only spoil
+it, but the pilgrim to Assisi should read it as related in that
+franciscan testament, the _Fioretti_ (chap. iii.). Popular devotion
+has happily not tampered with this corner of the town as it has with
+the house of the Bernardone.
+
+  [Illustration: CAMPANILE OF STA. MARIA MAGGIORE]
+
+
+STA. MARIA MAGGIORE
+
+This romanesque church stands above a Roman building whose columns and
+mosaic floor can easily be seen from the garden behind the apse, and
+for many centuries it was the cathedral of Assisi as is testified by
+its close proximity to the Bishop's palace. But there is now little to
+remind us of any pretensions to splendour which it may once have
+possessed, only vestiges of the frescoes destroyed by the great
+earthquake of 1832 can be seen on its walls, and an Annunciation in a
+cupboard of the sacristy--in such strange places do we find an ancient
+fresco in Assisi. The church was already an old building in the
+twelfth century, for we hear of its being restored and enlarged after
+a fire by Giovanni da Gubbio, and finished later by the help of St.
+Francis who is said to have rebuilt the apse. One gladly hurries out
+of it into the little piazza which, though the humblest looking in
+Assisi, is very famous for the scenes it has witnessed. Here St.
+Francis renounced the world in the presence of his angry father, and
+received protection from Bishop Guido; (see p. 235). Many years later
+the dying saint was brought to rest at the Bishop's palace near the
+church, and edified those who guarded the gates by singing so gaily in
+the midst of terrible suffering. Then again when a quarrel arose
+between Guido and the Podesta of Assisi, two friars came up with a
+message of peace from St. Francis, then on his deathbed at the
+Portiuncula, who had heard with grief of the dissension. The story,
+and it is a true one we may be sure, has been faithfully recorded by
+Brother Leo, who tells us how "when all were assembled together in the
+piazza by the Bishop's palace the two brethren rose up and said: "The
+blessed Francis in his illness has composed a canticle to the Lord
+concerning His creatures, to the praise of the Lord Himself and for
+the edification of the people." It was the verse beginning "Praised be
+my Lord for all those who pardon one another for His love's sake,"
+which he had added to his Hymn to the Sun (see p. 79). All listened
+intently to the message which so touched the heart of the Podesta that
+he flung himself at the Bishop's feet and promised to make amends for
+his offence for the love of Christ and the Blessed Francis. The Bishop
+lifting him from the ground spoke words of forgiveness and peace, and
+then "with great kindness and love they embraced and kissed one
+another.""
+
+  [Illustration: EAST FRONT OF SAN FRANCESCO]
+
+
+CONVENTS OF S. QUIRICO AND S. APPOLINARE
+
+Every church and convent wall in Assisi was once adorned by frescoes,
+and even now, when time and ill-usage have done their best to ruin
+them, it is still possible to come upon delightful specimens of
+Umbrian art. But they are so stowed away in out of the way corners
+that one hardly likes to pass a door, however poor and uninviting,
+without glancing in to see what treasure may be hidden away behind it.
+
+Curiosity was amply rewarded one day while visiting the convent of S.
+Quirico which we pass on the way from Sta. Maria Maggiore to S.
+Pietro, attracted there by the small fresco of the Virgin and St. Anne
+by Matteo da Gualdo over the door. The whitewashed parlour contained
+nothing of interest, not even a nun peered through the iron grating,
+but a murmur from the attendant about frescoes drew us to a window
+where, above the brown-tiled roof under a rough pent ledge, exposed to
+rain and wind, was a fresco of Christ rising from the tomb, and four
+small angels. It is not perhaps one of Matteo da Gualdo's most
+pleasing compositions and might be passed unnoticed in a gallery, but
+the thought of the wealth of Umbrian art, when masters left their
+paintings over gateways upon city walls, and above a roof where even
+the nuns can scarcely see it as they walk in the cloister below, give
+it a peculiarly Assisan charm which we cannot easily forget. A few
+steps further on, down the Borgo San Pietro, is the large convent of
+S. Appolinare, remarkable for its pretty campanile of brick, and a
+wheel window above the door. It once possessed many frescoes of the
+fourteenth and fifteenth century, but now it is not worth while to
+seek admittance for they are much destroyed; some have been ruthlessly
+cut in two by lowering the ceiling of the rooms, and only here and
+there, where the whitewash has peeled off, faces of Madonnas and
+saints look out like ghosts imprisoned in a convent wall.
+
+
+S. PIETRO
+
+The church of S. Pietro stands upon a grass piazza surrounded by
+mulberry trees, with a broad outlook upon the valley. The central
+door, supported by two lions, has a twisted design of water-plants and
+birds which formerly were coloured, but now only show here and there
+traces of green stalks on a dark red background. A finely carved
+inscription above it records that in the year 1218 the cistercian
+Abbot Rustico built the facade, but its proud historians believe the
+church itself to have existed in the second century, thus claiming for
+it the honour of being the first church erected in Assisi. The present
+building cannot be older than 1253 when it was rebuilt after a great
+fire, and consecrated by Innocent IV. The interior is finely
+proportioned, and the remains of ancient frescoes discovered upon the
+walls show the zeal of the Assisans in making all their churches, as
+well as San Francesco, as beautiful as they could.
+
+  [Illustration: CHURCH OF S. PIETRO]
+
+In the small chapel to the left of the high altar are four stencilled
+medallions of a hunter with his dogs chasing a stag, besides
+symmetrical patterns like those of the nave of the Lower Church of San
+Francesco. Over the altar is a signed picture by Matteo da Gualdo (he
+was at Assisi in 1458, but the date here is partly effaced), of a
+Madonna with a choir of angels, and upon either side St. Peter and the
+Assisan martyr St. Vittorino. By standing on the altar steps a fresco
+of the Annunciation of the fifteenth century may be seen on the wall
+of the sacristy, discovered beneath the usual layer of whitewash some
+fifty years ago. The angel's profile, the hair turned back in waves
+from the face over the shoulders, is clearly outlined, and shows pale
+against the golden light of his wings. But the real treasures of this
+church, according to a pious author, are the bones of St. Vittorino,
+an Assisan Christian who was the second Bishop of Assisi, and died a
+martyr's death in the third century. In 1642 these relics were
+deposited in a more suitable marble urn than the one that had
+contained them before, during a grand ceremony presided over by a
+Baglioni, Bishop of Perugia. Other bones and ashes of some Roman
+martyrs were afterwards added which were taken from the cemetery at
+Rome by the Abbot of San Pietro "to further enrich his church."
+
+
+THE CONFRATERNITIES
+
+An enduring mark of St. Francis' influence is seen in the number of
+confraternities established in Assisi which, if they have lost many of
+their primitive customs, still retain a hold upon the people and are
+the great feature of the town. Hardly a day passes without seeing
+members either preparing for a service in one of their chapels, or
+following a church procession, or carrying the dead along the cypress
+walk from Porta S. Giacomo to the cemetery. Clothed in long grey
+hooded cloaks, holding lanterns and candles and singing their mediaeval
+hymns, these citizens of the nineteenth century belong to Assisi of
+the past as much as all her frescoes and early buildings. Their origin
+goes back to the middle of the thirteenth century when, out of the
+great devotional movement due to St. Francis, arose that strange body
+of penitents the Flagellants, who are said to have first appeared in
+Perugia, and thence spread throughout Italy.[107] "The movement," says
+Dr Creighton, "passed away; but it left its dress as a distinctive
+badge to the confraternities of mercy which are familiar to the
+traveller in the streets of many cities of Italy." Assisi was among
+the first to witness the hordes of fanatics who roamed from town to
+town increasing as they passed like a swarm of locusts through the
+land, and often at night going forth into the streets clothed in white
+garments to dance a dance of the dead, clanging bones together as they
+sang. It was inevitable that their passage through Assisi should have
+its results, and many brotherhoods were founded; those who had no
+chapels of their own met in S. Pietro or S. Maria delle Rose, where
+they performed their penances, sometimes, as in the case of the
+Battuti (Flagellants), beating themselves as they sang the wild,
+love-inspired hymns of Jacopone da Todi, the franciscan poet of
+Umbria. Since those days their fervour has taken a more practical
+form, and very simple are their services.
+
+  [Illustration: CONFRATERNITY OF SAN FRANCESCUCCIO IN VIA GARIBALDI]
+
+The members of _San Francescuccio_, or _Delle Stimate_, ever to and
+fro upon some errand of mercy, belong to the most important
+confraternity, and own one of the most picturesque chapels in the
+towns. When its doors are open during early Mass or Benediction the
+sound of prayer and chanting comes across the quiet road, and in the
+blaze of candle-light is seen the great Crucifixion of Ottaviano Nelli
+(?) in the lunette of the wall above the altar. At other times, the
+chapel being so sunk below the level of the road with no windows to
+light it, both fresco and the charming groined roof, blue as that of
+San Francesco, can with difficulty be seen. The pent roof outside
+overshadows some Umbrian frescoes by Matteo da Gualdo recording the
+famous miracle of the roses which flowered for St. Francis in the
+snow, and which he offered to the Virgin at the Altar of the
+Portiuncula. On the wall to the right are some ruined frescoes in
+terra-verde by a scholar of Matteo.
+
+Another confraternity in this street is _San Crispino_, which once
+possessed a picture by Niccolo Alunno, but that has long since
+disappeared, and only faint patches of colour remain above its
+gateway. There are many other confraternities, but as they do not all
+possess pictures of interest, we only mention three others; and first
+of these, the _Oratory of St. Anthony the Abbot_, or _Chiesa dei
+Pellegrini_, which every visitor to Assisi ought to visit.[108] After
+the Church of San Francesco it is by far the most important sight of
+the town; a Lombard facade, a Roman temple, or a mediaeval castle,
+delightful and beautiful as they are, may be seen elsewhere, but we
+know nothing with such individual charm as the little chapel of St.
+Anthony, in the Via Superba. So often a hundred vicissitudes arrested
+the adornment of a building during those troubled times of the middle
+ages, but here we find a small and perfectly proportioned oratory
+decorated with frescoes upon the ceiling and upon every wall, by two
+Umbrian masters who have sought to make it a complete and perfect
+sanctuary of Umbrian art.
+
+Built in 1431 by the piety of the brotherhood of St. Anthony the
+Abbot, it served as a private chapel to the adjoining hospital, where
+pilgrims coming to pray at the shrine of St. Francis found food and
+shelter for three days. The liberal donations given by Guidantonio,
+Duke of Urbino and sometime Lord of Assisi, whose devotion to the
+saint was great, may have enabled the confraternity to adorn it with
+its many frescoes. Outside, in the arched niche above the door, are
+the patrons of the chapel, St. Anthony and St. James of Campostello,
+that great saint of pilgrims, with a frieze of small angels above them
+playing upon various instruments, also by Matteo da Gualdo. To him we
+owe the fair Madonna over the altar who gazes so dreamily before her,
+and sits so straight upon her throne. Angels gather round bending
+towards their instruments with earnest faces; Matteo's angels can
+never only calmly pray, they must sing or else play on tambourines,
+viole d'amore, cymbals and organs. Less pleasing are the large figures
+of St. James and St. Anthony, while in contrast to them are the
+slender winged figures on either side bearing tall candelabra, and
+moving forward with such stately step, their white garments sweeping
+in long folds behind them, their fair curls just ruffled by the air.
+Surely Matteo must have been thinking of a group of babies at play in
+the cornfields, or under the hedges near his own Umbrian town, when he
+painted that frieze of laughing children, with little caps fitting so
+closely round their heads, who are tossing the branches of red and
+white roses up into the air. Each one is different, and all are full
+of graceful movement. They divide the frescoes below from that of the
+Annunciation, which recalls the manner of Boccatis da Camerino, the
+master of Matteo. He paints a swallow, the bird of returning spring,
+perched outside the Virgin's bedroom, to symbolise the promise of
+redemption, and a lion cub meant to represent the lion of Judah walks
+leisurely towards the Madonna.
+
+Matteo da Gualdo, as the inscription tells, worked here in 1468, and
+Pier Antonio da Foligno, known as Mezzastris, came in 1482 to paint
+the rest of the chapel, and upon the right wall he related the most
+famous of St. James' miracles in a naive and delightful manner. The
+legends tell how in the time of Pope Calixtus II, a certain German
+with his wife and son on their way to the saint's Spanish shrine of
+Campostello lodged at Tolosa, where their host's daughter fell in love
+with the fair young German. But he, being a cautious youth, resisted
+every advance of the Spanish maiden, who sought to avenge herself by
+hiding a silver drinking cup belonging to her father in his wallet.
+The theft was discovered, and the judge of Tolosa condemned the young
+pilgrim to be hanged. Pier Antonio has painted the scene when the
+father and mother, after visiting Campostello, return to take a last
+look at the place where their son was executed and find him well: "O
+my mother! O my father!" he says, "do not lament for me, as I have
+never been in better cheer, the blessed Apostle James is at my side,
+sustaining me and filling me with celestial joy and comfort." In the
+fresco near the altar the story is continued; the judge, stout and
+imposing as one of Benozzo Gozzoli's Florentine merchants, is seated
+at a table in crimson and ermine robes surrounded by his friends, when
+the pilgrim and his wife arrive and beg him to release their son.
+Somewhat bored at being interrupted at his banquet he mocks them,
+saying: "What meanest thou, good woman? Thou art beside thyself. If
+thy son lives so do these fowls before me." No sooner had he spoken
+than, to the astonishment of all, the cock and hen stood up on the
+dish and the cock began to crow, as we see in Mezzastris' fresco. On
+the opposite wall are miracles of St. Anthony. In the fresco near the
+door he is sitting in the porch of the church surrounded by his
+companion hermits; they are watching the arrival of camels which, in
+answer to the saint's prayer, have brought a supply of food neatly
+corded on their backs. The artist has pictured the desert with sandy
+mountains, little flowers growing in the burning sand and thick grass
+in the wood by the convent. In the second fresco St. Anthony, beneath
+a portico of lapis lazzuli and green serpentine, is distributing the
+food brought by the friendly camels, to the beggars, who appear as
+suddenly upon the scene as the beggars do in an Assisan street.
+
+The four figures in the ceiling, Pope Leo III, St. Bonaventure, St.
+Isidor of Seville and St. Augustine, and the angels with shield-shaped
+wings, are also by Mezzastris. A graceful piece of his work is the
+Christ above the door, in a glory of angels who form a wreath around
+Him with their wings like sheaves of yellow wheat. Delightful, but
+very different from Matteo's, are the cupid-angels flying across the
+sky on clouds, and the two seated playing with a shield upon which is
+painted the pilgrim's scallop-shell.
+
+  [Illustration: MONTE FRUMENTARIO IN THE VIA PRINCIPE DI NAPOLI]
+
+The figure of St. James near the door is of small interest, being a
+much restored work of a pupil of Perugino; but in the dark corner on
+the other side is, says Mr Berenson, a youthful work of Fiorenzo di
+Lorenzo. It is the young St. Ansano holding his lungs suspended
+daintily from one finger as in the fresco of S. Paolo, and looking so
+charming in his page's dress, his fair curls falling about his
+shoulders. He stands at the entrance of a cave with pointed rocks
+above, and saxifrage and ferns delicately drawn are growing in their
+crevices. Would that Mezzastris had given his pupil a larger space of
+wall to work on, so that we might have had more saints and landscapes
+like these. We leave the chapel with regret, giving one last look at
+Matteo's Madonna and his frieze of child-angels, and then go out into
+the long broad Via Principe di Napole. Its fine palaces, once the
+abode of some of the richest nobles of the town, have now been turned
+into schools and hospitals, and our thoughts once more revert to the
+past days of prosperity and magnificence as we walk along this grand
+but silent street where the grass grows unmolested between the stones.
+A little way further on to the right is the fine _loggia_ of the
+_Monte Frumentario_ which in olden times was an agricultural Monte di
+Pieta, where the peasants who had no other possessions than the
+produce of the fields would come to pawn their grain in time of need.
+The door is finely sculptured, and the delicate chiselling of the
+capitals of the pillars of the _loggia_ mark it as a work of the
+fourteenth century. Not far from the Chiesa dei Pellegrini, but to the
+left, stands one of the oldest Assisan houses which does not seem to
+have suffered much alteration since it was built. It was the lodge of
+the Comacine guild of workers, who have left their sign of the rose
+between the compass over the entrance, and two pieces of sculpture,
+showing that those to whom the house belonged were people who worked
+at some trade. It does not appear to have been a dwelling-house, but
+only a place where the members of the guild, employed in building the
+different civil and religious buildings for the Assisans, could meet
+together to discuss their interests, draw out their plans and execute
+different pieces of their work. They probably did not build the house,
+but perhaps in the year 1485, which is the date above the door,
+adapted for their use one already standing.[109] It is always pointed
+out as the _Casa di Metastasio_, but his paternal dwelling is a less
+interesting house, standing at the angle of Via S. Giacomo and Via S.
+Croce, which can be reached from the Comacine Lodge by the steep
+by-street of S. Andrea. Metastasio, though the Trapassi were Assisans,
+had little to do with the town as his family were engaged in trade at
+Rome, where he was born in 1698. There he was found improvising songs
+to a crowd of wondering people by the celebrated Vincenzo Gravina, who
+adopted and educated him. When set to music, Metastasio's poetry
+brought all Rome to his feet and earned him the title of Caesarean poet
+from the Emperor Charles VI; he ended his life at the court of Vienna
+as the favourite of Maria Theresa, honoured by all the great musicians
+of the day. Truly he has little to do with Assisi, yet he must be
+added to the list of her numerous illustrious citizens.
+
+  [Illustration: HOUSE OF THE COMACINE BUILDERS IN THE VIA PRINCIPE DI
+  NAPOLE]
+
+Following the street by the Casa di Metastasio, we get into
+delightful lanes above the town and reach another little
+confraternity, the oldest of all, _San Rufinuccio_.[110] Its small
+chapel, built of alternate layers of pink and white Subasian stone, is
+a very characteristic example of an Umbrian way-side sanctuary, always
+open in the olden days for the peasants to come into for rest and
+prayer. It is worth a visit, not only because the way there is
+beautiful, but also for the grand Crucifixion painted above the altar
+by the decorator of St. Nicholas' Chapel in San Francesco. It is a
+strong and splendid composition, which even much repainting has been
+unable to destroy. Unfortunately the scenes at the sides can only just
+be seen. Below, the half-length Madonna and angels by another artist
+recall the Annunciation of S. Pietro, in the marked outline of their
+pale faces and the rainbow colour of clothes and wings.
+
+Turning off from the Via Nuova to the left we mount still higher
+through the olive groves along a path possessing no name, but which is
+the nicest way to the heights above the town. We come in a few minutes
+to the confraternity of _San Lorenzo_, standing somewhat below the
+level of the castle. It has nothing of interest inside, but behind the
+wooden covering of the gateway at the side is a fresco by an unknown
+Umbrian artist, an Assisan perhaps, who above the Virgin's throne
+signs himself "Chola Pictor." He paints the faces of his saints with a
+smooth surface, betraying the influence of Simone Martini which he
+felt together with many of his fellow Umbrian artists. The Virgin's
+throne is full of wonderful ornaments; unfortunately the fresco has
+suffered from a large crack across the wall. Very quaint is a group of
+hooded members of the confraternity at her feet, and there is a
+charming figure of St. Rufino, young, with an oval face and brown
+eyes, but to be seen only from the top of a ladder as he is painted in
+a corner of the arch. It has been suggested to remove this much-ruined
+painting to the safer custody of the Municipio, but we hope this will
+not occur, for, taken away from its gateway on the hillside, where the
+redstarts build their nests and the evening sun lights up the colour
+in the Virgin's face, its interest and charm would be lost.
+
+
+THE CASTLE OR "LA ROCCA D'ASSISI"
+
+Within her city walls Assisi possesses nothing wilder or more
+beautiful than the undulating slopes which rise from the city up to
+the Castle, where wild orchises grow among the grass, and the hedges
+of acacia wind around the hill. The town lies so directly below, that
+by stepping to the edge and looking across the white acacias, we can
+only see a mass of brown roofs all purple at sundown, the tops of
+towers and the battlements of gateways. Then there are places where
+the grassy hillocks stand up so high that they hide the town
+altogether, and we seem to be looking out upon the broad vista of the
+valley from an isolated peak. At all times it is beautiful; but choose
+a stormy day in springtime, when the clouds are driving upwards from
+the plain only lately covered with mist, and the nearer hills are dark
+their cities catching the late evening sunshine as it breaks through
+the storm, while wind-swept Subasio looks bleak in the white light
+showing here and there patches of palest green. And behind us,
+cresting the hill, so near the town yet seen absolutely alone and
+clear against the sky, rise the tower and the vast walls of the Rocca
+d'Assisi, looking, not like a ruin crumbling beneath the constant
+driving of wind and rain, but as though torn down in war-time, grand
+in its destruction. It stands upon the site of an ancient burial
+ground, where in remote times the Umbrian augurs came to watch for
+omens from the heights of a tower that is said to have crowned the
+summit. The legend of this building gave rise to the belief that a
+castle stood here in very early times which was taken by Totila when
+he besieged Assisi. But it is more probable that when Charlemagne
+rebuilt the town in 733 after it had been destroyed by his army, he
+also erected a castle to enable the Papal emissaries to keep the
+people in subjection; or perhaps the citizens themselves may have
+wished to protect themselves more securely from passing armies (see p.
+16). It ended by becoming, much to the displeasure of the people the
+residence of whoever held Assisi for the time, and in the twelfth
+century they experienced the despotic rule of Conrad of Suabia, who
+lived here with his young charge, Frederic II. When, by the superior
+power of the Pope, Conrad was driven out of Umbria, the citizens did
+their best to destroy the walls which had harboured a tyrant, and to
+avoid further tyranny they obtained an edict forbidding the erection
+of another fortress. But promises such as these were vain indeed, for
+when, in 1367, escaping from the hated yoke of the Perugians Assisi
+welcomed Cardinal Albornoz in the Pope's name as her ruler, she lent a
+willing ear to his plans for rebuilding the castle. The people were
+well satisfied as they watched the improvements he made in the town,
+and two centuries had so dimmed the remembrances of Conrad's tyranny,
+that they gladly assisted him, little deeming that they were giving
+away their liberty. Albornoz, not slow to perceive what a valuable
+possession it would prove to the rulers of Assisi, spared neither
+money nor efforts to make it large and strong. By his orders the
+castle keep, which we see to this day, called the "maschio," and the
+squarely-set walls enclosing it were erected, and in a very few years
+the Rocca again rose proudly on its hill, warning the Umbrian people
+of its newly-found importance, and enticing passing _condottieri_ to
+lay siege to a town that offered so fine a prize. Albornoz also
+rebuilt most of the city walls which had been so battered during the
+Perugian wars; we can trace them from gateway to gateway encircling
+the city, and it is curious to see how in the upper portion near San
+Rufino large open spaces exist, as if in those active days when the
+Assisans had hopes of becoming powerful, they purposely set the walls
+far back to provide for a large and flourishing town. The feeling of
+arrested growth is one of the most mournful spectacles, and we half
+wonder if the great castle dominating the heights was not in part the
+cause of it. There was war enough at the time, inevitable among the
+restless factions of a people groping towards freedom and power, but
+here above the town was placed a fresh cause of dissension and
+struggle against perpetual bondage through varied tyrannies.
+
+Albornoz, in planning out the city walls, discovered that the part
+between Porta Cappuccini and Porta Perlici, where the hill descends
+towards the ravine, needed protection, so he built the strong fortress
+of San Antonio known as the Rocca Minore. It had a separate governor
+or Castellano, and though of minor importance, proved very efficient
+in repelling the attacks of besieging armies. The principal tower,
+though somewhat ruined, still looks very fine within its square
+enclosure of massive walls, now covered in places with heavy curtains
+of ivy, the home of countless birds. A pious Castellano in the
+fifteenth century left a fresco of the Crucifixion in the chapel with
+his portrait at the foot of the Cross, and as we look at it through
+the wooden gateway we are reminded of what otherwise from the deserted
+look of the place it is easy to forget, that people once lived and
+prayed at the Rocca as well as fought.
+
+  [Illustration: LOOKING ACROSS THE ASSISAN ROOFS TOWARDS THE EAST]
+
+Cardinal Albornoz left the castle in charge of two Assisan captains,
+but from 1376 an uninterrupted line of governors received their
+salaries from whoever was master of Assisi at the time. Always chosen
+from other towns their privileges were quite distinct from those of
+the civil governors; but in the fifteenth century, owing to the
+weakness of the Priors, who failed to keep order among the lawless
+nobles of the town, their power increased. The Papal Legate then gave
+into the hands of the Castellano authority to issue edicts which the
+Priors had to obey, and in 1515 he was invested with the title of
+Podesta and Pretor of Assisi. But none of these governors seems to
+have misused their power over the town, probably because their rule
+was of too short a duration to carry out any ambitious scheme. And
+when the despot for the time being of Assisi came to stay, he took up
+his quarters in the castle, ruling governors, magistrates and people
+alike. In the time of the despot Broglia di Trino, we hear of the
+Priors wearily toiling up the steep ascent to place before him the
+acts they had passed in the municipal palace. He received them always
+in the open air, holding his councils either in the first enclosure by
+the well, or in the second by the castle keep, where many important
+conclusions were arrived at, and plans for the city's dominion laid
+out.
+
+So perfect is the harmony of the castle from wherever it is seen, that
+it is difficult to realise how many hands have formed it, how many
+times its walls have been battered down and rebuilt at different
+periods by popes, cardinals, and passing _condottieri_, who have
+nearly all left their arms upon its walls as a record of their
+munificence. After Albornoz had built the principal mass of
+fortifications little was done until 1458, when Jacopo Piccinino, the
+son of the great general, entered Assisi as master, and obtained
+immediate possession of the Rocca. His reign was short, but with the
+quick eye of a soldier he soon discovered the weakness of the western
+slope, and seeing that it might be carried by assault from Porta San
+Giacomo, he laid the foundations of a polygonal tower and a long wall
+connecting it with the main building. The Comacine builders
+established in Assisi were employed and left their sign, the rose
+between the compass and the mason's square, upon its lower walls. But
+long before the work was half completed Piccinino sold the city to the
+Pope, and it was AEneas Piccolomini, Pius II, who, when he visited
+Assisi in 1459, ordered it to be brought to a termination; within a
+year the wall was raised to its full height, the tower received its
+battlements and the arms of the Piccolomini were placed above those of
+Piccinino. The covered gallery, running along the top of the wall from
+the castle, still leads the visitor to the giddy heights of the tower
+whence he obtains truly a bird's-eye view of all the country round,
+from Spoleto to Perugia, across range upon range of hills towards
+Tuscany, and from Bettona to the wild tract of mountainous country
+leading to Nocera, Gualdo and Gubbio.
+
+To recount the full history of the castle needs a book to itself, and
+would include not only the history of Assisi but almost of all
+Umbria.[111] The possession of the Rocco Maggiore entailed that of the
+Rocca Minore and gave undisputed sway over Assisi, so that the
+desperate efforts made to hold it can be understood. During the
+intervals when Papal authority was relaxed, we find the names of many
+famous people whose armies fought for this much contested prize.
+Biordo Michelotti, Count Guido of Montefeltro, the two Piccininos,
+Francesco Sforza and Gian Galeazzo Visconti, were in succession its
+owners. Cosmo de' Medici obtained it from Pope Eugenius IV, in payment
+of a bad debt, and a Florentine governor ruled over it for a year. It
+even, together with the town of Assisi, became the property of
+Lucrezia Borgia, who received it from Alexander VI, as part of her
+dower on her marriage with Giovanni Sforza, Lord of Pesaro. Sometimes
+it happened that a private citizen of Perugia conceived the ambitious
+scheme of making himself master of the castle, and by fraud the
+Castellano would be enticed outside the gates and murdered with his
+family. But it always ended by Perugia, fearing the wrath of the Pope,
+or not liking one of their own citizens to gain so much power, sending
+an army to dislodge the tyrant, who soon lost his head. Sometimes
+criminals were kept imprisoned in the castle; we can still see the
+room in the keep where they scratched their names upon the wall, with
+many references to their horror of the place, and a roughly traced
+heart pierced with an arrow. Ordinary malefactors were shut up in a
+dark cell on the stairs. When their crimes merited death they were
+executed on the Piazza della Minerva, or if time pressed, the
+Castellano hanged them from the battlements of the fortress or threw
+them out of a window into the ravine below. The governors had a
+difficult and not a very peaceful time, for they had not only to guard
+against outside foes, but occasionally against a faction who attempted
+to get possession of the castle, and great on those occasions was the
+fight outside its walls. It was in vain that they took every
+precaution for the general safety, that a night guard walked up and
+down the Assisan streets playing his castanets to warn off all
+evil-doers, or that men-at-arms watched incessantly from the castle
+battlements. In the sixteenth century the castle became a prey to the
+rival families of the Nepis and the Fiumi who divided Assisi between
+them. First it fell into the hands of Jacopo Fiumi and the Pope,
+Alexander VI, furious when he heard of this citizen's audacious act,
+wrote that "by love or by force" he would have his fortress back
+again; but Jacopo remained impervious to threats or promises and held
+out for another year, until the Priors fearing the anger of the Pope
+came to an agreement with him. Some thirty years later the Nepis
+obtained possession of it by treachery and violence, and it required
+all the astuteness of Malatesta Baglione, who was fighting for Clement
+VII, to dislodge them, while the Pope branded them and their adherents
+as "sons of iniquity" for having dared to wrest from the Papacy the
+castle of Assisi.
+
+  [Illustration: VIEW OF SAN FRANCESCO FROM BENEATH THE CASTLE WALLS]
+
+But the days of the great military importance of the Rocca were fast
+drawing to a close; Assisi, no longer oppressed by the nobles,
+harassed by the armies of Perugia, or alarmed by the coming of the
+despots whose power was on the wane all over Italy, lost her character
+of individuality as a fighting and turbulent city, and sank beneath
+the wise and beneficent government of the Papacy. With the arrival of
+Paul III, in 1535, the final blow was given to mediaeval usages of war
+and scheming in Umbria. The great Farnese Pope was building his
+fortress at Perugia to finally crush that hitherto indomitable people,
+and fearing the Assisans might yet give trouble in the future to his
+legates as they had so often done in the past, he gave orders that the
+fortress should be repaired, and a bastion suitable for the more
+modern methods of warfare be built to the right of the castle keep.
+This is now the best preserved portion of the building. For some time
+a Castellano still remained in command of the castle but his title was
+purely a nominal one, and his chief duty seems to have consisted in
+guarding prisoners. Its political need having disappeared the popes
+thought less of their Assisan fortress, the one lately erected at
+Perugia being more efficient as a safeguard of their interests, and
+gradually its walls showed signs of decay, but no papal legates were
+sent to see to their repair. So terribly did it suffer during the
+years that followed the reign of Paul III, that in 1726 we read of the
+governor of the city sending an earnest supplication to the Pope that
+"this strong and ancient castle of Assisi, which had always been the
+chief fortress of Umbria, should be saved from ruin." The Pope, he
+tells us in another letter, had already sent Count Aureli, the
+military governor of Umbria, to inspect it, who declared it was "one
+of the strongest and most splendid fortresses of the ecclesiastical
+states, and as fine as any he had seen in France or in Flanders, when
+as head page he had accompanied Louis XIV." In the same document there
+is mention also of beautiful paintings in the chief rooms, and of a
+miraculous Crucifixion in the chapel, but these decorations, needless
+to say, have long since disappeared. Entreaties were vainly sent to
+Rome; the castle was so utterly abandoned that its gates stood open
+for all to roam in and out as they pleased, pulling down the ancient
+arms of the popes, and vying with the storms to complete its ruin and
+destruction. Such was its strength that it endured the ill-treatment
+of seasons and of men, and people now alive remember in their youth to
+have seen it still roofed in and possessing much of its former
+magnificence. A little money might have restored it to its pristine
+state, but during those years of struggle for the Unity of Italy the
+general fever of excitement invaded the quiet town, and as if
+remembering all the tyrants their castle walls had harboured, and the
+skirmishes their ancestors had fought beneath them, the citizens
+continued its destruction with renewed vigour. It was no uncommon
+thing to see cartloads of stones being taken down the hill for the
+construction of some modern dwelling, or boys amusing themselves by
+throwing down portions of the walls, and trying who could succeed in
+making great blocks of masonry reach the bed of the torrent below.
+Luckily the government gave it over to the commune of Assisi in 1883
+and they did something towards its repair, though within certain
+limits, for a large sum would have been necessary to complete its
+restoration.
+
+But it still remains a very wonderful corner of Assisi, and delightful
+hours may be passed sitting in the castle keep and looking out of the
+large windows upon a land so strangely peaceful, with little cities
+gathered on the hills or lying by some river in the plain. We see the
+battered walls around us bearing traces of ancient warfare, and wonder
+at the power which made the mediaeval turmoil so suddenly subside. In
+vain we scan the valley for the coming of a warlike cardinal with
+glittering horsemen in his rear, or look for Gian Paolo Baglione
+riding hastily through the town upon his swift black charger. The
+communal armies met for the last time by the Tiber many centuries ago;
+popes, emperors, _condottieri_ and saints have passed like pageants
+across Umbria, and as if touched by a magician's wand have as suddenly
+vanished, leaving her cities with only the memories of an active and
+glorious past. Thus Assisi, with the rest of the smaller towns,
+gradually sank as a prosperous and governing city though decidedly not
+as a place of pilgrimage and prayer, into that deep sleep from which
+she has never again awakened.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[103] Bernhard Berenson, "Central Italian painters of the
+Renaissance," p. 86.
+
+[104] Goethe's Werke, _Italiaenische Reise_, I., vol. 27, pp. 184, _et
+seq._, J. G. Cotta, 1829.
+
+[105] The key is obtained from the Canonico Modestini's house, No. 27a
+Via S. Paolo.
+
+[106] The legend that St. Francis was born in a stable only dates from
+the fifteenth century and arose out of the desire of the franciscans
+to make his life resemble that of Christ. The site of this stable,
+which is now a chapel, is of no interest whatever.
+
+[107] See _Story of Perugia_ (mediaeval series), p. 211, for the legend
+of their origin in that town.
+
+[108] The chapel is also called the _Chiesa di S. Caterina_ because
+the members of that confraternity have charge of it. It is often open,
+but should it be closed, there is always some one about ready to
+obtain the key from the house in the same street Via Superba, now Via
+Principe di Napoli, No. 12, opposite Palazzo Bernabei.
+
+[109] See Signor Alfonso Brizi's _Loggia dei Maestri Comacini in
+Assisi_, No. 1, April 185, of the _Atti dell' Accademia Properziana
+del Subasio in Assisi_.
+
+[110] Both the key of _San Rufinuccio_ and _San Lorenzo_ can be
+obtained through the sacristan of the Cathedral.
+
+[111] This work has been admirably done by Signor Alfonso Brizi. In
+his _Rocca d'Assisi_, published in 1898, he has given a very
+interesting account of its many rulers and vicissitudes, and a full
+description of the building, together with all the documents relating
+to it.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+_Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli. The Feast of the Pardon of St.
+Francis or "il Perdono d'Assisi"_
+
+
+The sanctuary of the Portiuncula has, in its present surroundings,
+rightly been called a jewel within a casket--a casket indeed too large
+for so small a gem. But the great Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli
+was the best the Umbrians could procure for the object they loved best
+after their Basilica in the town, and the famous architects of the day
+were called in to build it.[112] A smaller shelter would have served
+the purpose in earlier times but the ever increasing flow of pilgrims
+who came in thousands for the "Perdono" rendered it necessary to think
+about a church large enough to contain them; and it was the dominican
+Pope Pius V, who enabled the work to be commenced in 1569, giving
+large sums to the vast enterprise. Jacopo Barozio da Vignola gave the
+ground-plan, leaving the execution of it, at his death in 1573, to be
+carried out by the well-known Perugian architect and sculptor, Giulio
+Danti, and his fellow-citizen Galeazzo Alessi, who designed the fine
+cupola and arches. The church was built in the doric style, divided
+into nave and aisles with numberless side chapels; and certainly they
+succeeded in giving it a great feeling of space and loftiness, which
+if less charming than the mysterious gloom of other churches yet seems
+to belong better to the open and sunlit Umbrian plain, where it rises
+as a beacon to the people for many miles round. The earthquake in
+1832, which laid the villages near Ponte San Giovanni in almost total
+ruin, shook down the nave and choir of the Angeli creating havoc
+impossible to describe. By supreme good fortune, shall we say by a
+miracle, the cupola of Danti and Alessi remained intact above the
+Portiuncula, which otherwise would have been utterly destroyed. In
+rebuilding the church, Poletti, the Roman architect employed, deviated
+slightly from Vignola's original plan, and further he erected a more
+elaborate and far less elegant facade than the first one, but baroque
+as it is we may be thankful that the niches for statues of the saints
+have remained empty. There have been other earthquakes since that of
+1832, and when they occurred a pyramid of faggots was carefully piled
+upon the Portiuncula for protection in case a miracle might not
+intervene a second time to save it from destruction.
+
+The friars took an active part in the work, building the campanile and
+carving the handsome pulpit and the cupboards in the sacristy. The
+marble altar was given in 1782 by Mehemet Ali, the ruler of Egypt, and
+many noble Italian families contributed towards the erection of the
+chapels containing decadent paintings which it would be useless to
+describe or to look at. One priceless treasure ornaments the chapel of
+San Giuseppe (in the left transept), a work of Andrea della Robbia in
+terra-cotta of blue and white which is like a portion of the sky seen
+through the cool branches of a vine on a glaring summer's day. Andrea
+is truly the sculptor of the franciscans, for there are but few of his
+works where an incident from St. Francis' life is not introduced, and
+with what feeling they are realised. On one side of the beautiful
+Madonna who bends to receive her crown from the hands of the Saviour,
+is represented with great dignity and simplicity St. Francis receiving
+the Stigmata, on the other St. Jerome and his lion. Beneath is a
+predella divided into three compartments, the Annunciation, Christ in
+the manger, and the Adoration of the Magi; and Andrea has framed in
+the whole with a slightly raised garland of apples, fir-cones and
+Japanese medlars, which suits the delicacy of the workmanship of the
+small scenes better than a heavier wreath of fruit and leaves. In the
+Capella delle Reliquie (in the right transept) is a Crucifixion
+painted on panel by Giunta Pisano (?) with medallion half figures of
+the Virgin and St. John; below are kneeling angels by an Umbrian
+artist, whose work contrasts most strangely with the ancient painting
+belonging to the dark years before Giotto.
+
+In a preceding chapter we lamented the efforts that have been made to
+decorate the Portiuncula, now alas no longer the shrine among the oak
+trees; not only in earlier centuries did Umbrian artists cover its
+rough stones in many parts with frescoes, but the German artist
+Overbeck has added another superfluous decoration to the facade,
+severely, but justly criticised by M. Taine, and a German lady has
+painted the Annunciation on the apse. A very small picture by Sano di
+Pietro of the Madonna and Child hangs above, a very charming example
+of the master's work. Very little remains of Pietro Perugino's
+Crucifixion, and what there is has been well covered over with modern
+paint. The choir of the monks built outside the Portiuncula having
+been removed in the eighteenth century half of Perugino's fresco was
+destroyed, leaving only the groups of people at the foot of the Cross,
+amongst whom we recognise St. Francis.
+
+A naive legend is recalled to us by the stone slab let into the wall
+close to the side entrance, recording the spot where Pietro Cataneo,
+the first vicar of the Order during the life of the saint, is buried.
+He was as holy as the rest of those first enthusiasts, and after death
+so many miracles were wrought at his tomb that the peace of the friars
+was disturbed. The case becoming serious they had recourse to St.
+Francis who, seeing the danger that their lonely abode would become a
+place of pilgrimage, addressed an admonition to Pietro Cataneo, saying
+that as he had ever been obedient in life so must he be in death and
+cease to perform such marvellous miracles. After this when peasants
+came to pray for some favour at his tomb no answer was vouchsafed, so
+that gradually their faith in his intercession ceased and peace again
+reigned at the Portiuncula.
+
+The extent of the present church is so immense that the site of all
+the scattered huts of the brethren and the little orchard so carefully
+tended by the saint, are contained within its walls. Over what was the
+infirmary where St. Francis died St. Bonaventure built a chapel which
+Lo Spagna decorated with portraits (?) of the first franciscans, now
+seen very dimly like shadows on its walls by the flickering light of
+the tapers. Out of the half gloom stands strongly outlined in a niche
+above the altar, a beautiful terra-cotta statue of St. Francis by
+Andrea della Robbia. The hood is thrown back, the head slightly
+raised, and in the sad but calm expression of the exquisitely modelled
+face Andrea conveys a truer feeling of the suffering Poverello than
+all the so-called portraits. One of these, said to be painted on the
+lid of the saint's coffin by Giunta Pisano, hangs outside the chapel,
+but it looks more like a bad copy of Cimabue's St. Francis in the
+Lower Church, and we would fain leave with the remembrance unspoilt
+of Andrea's fine conception. Passing through the sacristy containing a
+head of Christ by an unknown follower of Perugino and a small Guido
+Reni (?), we reach the chapel of St. Charles Borromeo where an ancient
+and much restored portrait of St. Francis, said to be painted on part
+of his bed, hangs above the altar; it is in every way less interesting
+than the one in the sacristy of the Lower Church. From here an open
+colonnade leads past a little plot of ground, which in the days of the
+Little Brethren was the orchard of the convent. One day as the saint
+left his cell he stopped a moment to speak with the friar who attended
+to the land, "begging him not to cultivate only vegetables, but to
+leave a little portion for those plants which in due time would bring
+forth brother flowers, for the love of Him who is called 'flower of
+the field and lily of the valley.'" Accordingly a "fair little garden"
+was made, and often while St. Francis caressingly touched the flowers,
+his spirit seemed to those who watched him to be no longer upon earth
+but to have already reached its home. On the other side, carefully
+preserved within wire netting, is the famous Garden of Roses, and
+standing in the midst, like ruins of some temple, are the four pillars
+which in olden times supported a roof above the Portiuncula. In the
+days when St. Francis had his hut close by, this cultivated garden was
+only a wilderness of brambles in the forest, and the legend tells how
+the saint being assailed by terrible temptation as he knelt at prayer
+through the watches of the night, ran out into the snow and rolled
+naked among the brambles and thorns to quiet the fierce battle within
+his soul. The moonlight suddenly broke through the clouds shining upon
+clusters of white and red roses, their leaves stained with the saint's
+blood which had fallen upon the brambles and produced these thornless
+flowers, while celestial spirits filled the air with hymns of praise.
+Throwing a silken garment over him and flooding his pathway with
+heavenly radiance, the angel led him to the Portiuncula where the
+Madonna and Child appeared to him in a vision. The legend has been
+often illustrated, Overbeck's fresco on the facade of the chapel
+records it yet again where St. Francis is represented as offering to
+the Virgin the roses he had gathered.
+
+  [Illustration: THE GARDEN OF THE ROSES AT STA. MARIA DEGLI ANGELI]
+
+A few steps beyond the Garden of the Roses lies the Chapel of the
+Roses built by St. Bonaventure over the hut of St. Francis, which was
+afterwards enlarged by St. Bernardine. The place where he spent his
+few moments of repose and so many hours of prayer, can be seen through
+the grating on a level with the chapel floor, and resembles more the
+lair of a wild animal than an ordinary abode of man; but such places
+were dear to him, and he rejoiced in having the open forest outside
+his cell into which he wandered at all times of the day and night, and
+where the brethren, ever curious to watch their beloved and holy
+master, could see him on moonlight nights holding sweet converse with
+heavenly spirits. The choir of the chapel is frescoed by Lo Spagna who
+repeated again the figures of the first franciscans, adding those of
+St. Bonaventure, St. Bernardine of Siena, St. Louis of Toulouse, and
+St. Anthony of Padua on the left wall, and St. Clare and St. Elisabeth
+of Hungary on the right wall. The fresco on the ceiling is said to be
+by Pinturricchio. The paintings in the nave by Tiberio d'Assisi are
+faintly coloured and a poor example of Umbrian art; only the last
+scene is interesting, where St. Francis publishes the indulgence in
+the presence of the seven bishops, as it gives an accurate
+representation of the Portiuncula in the fifteenth century with
+Niccolo da Foligno's fresco still upon the facade. It tells the legend
+of the "Perdono" which even to the present day plays so important a
+part in the religious life of Assisi, bringing crowds every year to
+the Portiuncula for whom the Angeli was finally built. Disentangling
+the story from the legend by no means diminishes its charm, while we
+get a very striking historical scene showing us St. Francis in yet
+another light. Once when the saint was praying at the Portiuncula,
+Christ and his Mother appeared to him to ask what favour he desired,
+for it would be granted by reason of his great faith. The salvation of
+souls being ever the burden of his prayers he begged for a plenary
+indulgence, to be earned by all who should enter the Portiuncula on a
+special day. "What thou askest, O Francis," replied Christ, "is very
+great; but thou art worthy of still greater favours. I grant thy
+prayer; but go and find my Vicar, the Sovereign Pontiff Honorius III,
+at Perugia, and ask him in my name for this indulgence." Early next
+morning St. Francis, accompanied by Peter Cataneo and Angelo da Rieti,
+started along the road to Perugia where Innocent III, had but lately
+died and the pious Honorius been immediately elected as his successor.
+It was in the early summer of 1216 that the little band of friars were
+led into the presence of the Pope in the old Canonica, but not for the
+first time did St. Francis find himself in the presence of Rome's
+sovereign, gaining his cause now as before through the great love that
+made his words and actions seem inspired. At first the Pope murmured
+at the immensity of the favour asked but finally, his heart being
+touched by the fervour of the saint, he said: "For how many years do
+you desire this indulgence. Perchance for one or two, or will you that
+I grant it to you for seven?" The Pope had still to learn the depths
+of love in the saint's heart who stood before him pleading so
+earnestly for the souls of men, not during his life only, but during
+centuries to come. "O Messer il Papa," cried St. Francis in accents
+almost of despair, "why speakest thou of years and of time? I ask thee
+not for years, but I ask thee for souls." "It is not the custom of the
+Roman Curia," answered the Pope, "to grant such an indulgence."
+
+"Your Holiness," said the saint, "it is not I who ask for it, but He
+who has sent me, the Lord Jesus Christ."
+
+The Pope conquered by these words and driven by a sudden impulse said,
+"We accord thee the indulgence." The Cardinals who had remained silent
+now began to murmur and reminded the Pope, like cautious guardians of
+the Papal interests, that this plenary indulgence would greatly
+interfere with those granted for pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and for
+visiting the tombs of the Blessed Apostles.
+
+"We have given and granted it to him," answered Honorius. "What has
+been done we cannot undo, but we will modify it so that the indulgence
+will be but for one full day." And motioning the saint to approach he
+said: "From henceforth we grant that whoso comes to and enters this
+church, being sincerely repentant and having received absolution,
+shall be absolved from all punishment and all faults, and we will that
+this indulgence be valid every year in perpetuity, but for one day
+only from the first vesper of the one day until the first vesper of
+the next." Hardly had the Pope ceased speaking when St. Francis
+radiant with joy turned to depart.
+
+"_O semplicione quo vadis?_ O simple child without guile, whither
+goest thou? Whither goest thou without the document ratifying so great
+a favour?" quoth the Pope.
+
+"If this indulgence," answered the saint, "is the work of God, I have
+no need of any document, let the chart be the Blessed Virgin Mary, the
+notary Christ and my witnesses the angels."
+
+Round this historical interview the legend makers wove the pretty
+story of the roses which flowered in mid-winter among the snow,
+relating that after the concession of the indulgence in the summer of
+1216 occurred this rose miracle, and Christ in a vision bade the saint
+go to Rome in order that the day might be fixed for the gaining of the
+indulgence, and to convince Honorius of the truth of his revelation he
+was to carry some of the roses with him. But having already obtained
+the Pope's sanction at Perugia, it was unlikely that the saint would
+wait another year before proclaiming the glad tidings to all the
+country-side, and we may be sure that no sooner had he returned to the
+Portiuncula from Perugia than he made speedy preparations for the
+arrival of a great concourse of people. On the afternoon of the first
+of August the plain about the Portiuncula was filled with pilgrims
+from far and near, and many friars hastened from distant parts to
+listen to their master's wonderful message. He mounted the wooden
+pulpit which had been erected beneath an oak tree close to the chapel,
+followed by the seven Umbrian bishops who were to ratify his
+proclamation of the indulgence. St. Francis discoursed most eloquently
+to the assembled multitude and then in the fullness of his joy cried
+out to them, "I desire to send you all to Paradise," and announced the
+great favour he had obtained for them from the Holy Pontiff. When the
+bishops heard him proclaim the indulgence as "perpetual" they murmured
+among themselves, and finally exclaimed that he had misunderstood the
+words of the Pope, and that they intended to do only what was right
+and ratify the indulgence for ten years. Full of righteous feeling the
+bishop of Assisi stepped forward to correct the error into which the
+saint had fallen, but to the astonishment of his companions he
+declared the indulgence to have been granted for all time. Then the
+others murmured still more, saying he had done this because he was an
+Assisan and wished to bring great honour to his diocese; so the bishop
+of Perugia, determining to set the mistake right, began to speak, but
+he found himself forced by a supernatural power to proclaim the
+indulgence in the very words of St. Francis. The same thing happened
+to the other five bishops, and St. Francis then saw his dearest wishes
+realised.
+
+Daily the fame of the Portiuncula increased, and the year 1219
+witnessed another immense gathering of people, but this time it was
+the meeting of the five thousand franciscan friars who came from
+distant parts to attend the Easter Chapter held by St. Francis in the
+plain. One of the most vivid and interesting chapters (the xiii) in
+the _Fioretti_, pictures for us "the camp and army of the knights of
+God," all busily employed in holy converse about the affairs of the
+Order. It relates how "in that camp were shelters, roofed with lattice
+and mat, arranged in separate groups according to the diverse
+provinces whence came the friars; therefore was this Chapter called
+the Chapter of the Lattices or of the Mats; their bed was the bare
+earth, though some had a little straw, their pillows were stones or
+billets of wood. For which reason the devotion of those who heard or
+saw them was so great, and so great was the fame of their sanctity,
+that from the court of the Pope who was then at Perugia, and from
+other towns in the vale of Spoleto, came many counts, barons and
+knights, and other men of gentle birth, and much people, and cardinals
+and bishops and abbots with many other clerics, to see so holy and
+great a congregation and so humble, the like had never yet been in the
+world of so many saintly men assembled together: and principally they
+came to see the head and most holy father of all these holy
+men...."[113]
+
+  [Illustration: THE FONTE MARCELLA BY GALEAZZO ALESSI]
+
+
+THE PARDON OF ST. FRANCIS OR "IL PERDONO D'ASSISI."
+
+We cannot study the story of any Umbrian town without experiencing the
+feeling that it belongs to the past and was built in an age, which can
+only dimly be realised in the pages of old chronicles, by a people who
+were ever hurrying to battle, bent on glory and conquest for their
+cities. The character of the inhabitants has changed, and though the
+wonderful little cities they built upon the hills remain much as in
+mediaeval times, they have a peaceful and quiet loveliness of their own
+which could not have existed in those days of fevered struggle and
+unrest. The word Assisi brings up, even to those who have seen the
+town but for a day, a host of sunlit memories; of way-side shrines
+with fading frescoes, whence Umbrian Madonnas smile down upon the
+worshippers; of ravines and forest trees; of vineyards where the
+peasants greeted you; of convent and Basilica glowing golden and
+crimson in the sudden changes from afternoon to sun-down, as they lie
+bathed in the last rays of light upon the hill above the darkness of
+the valley. All these things and many more pass through our minds, but
+the picture would be incomplete if we fail to recall two days in
+August when the undying power of St. Francis once more reaches across
+the centuries, arousing the people to a sudden return to mediaeval
+times of expiation, prayer and strong belief in the power of a great
+saint's intercession.
+
+  [Illustration: AN ASSISAN GARDEN IN VIA GARIBALDI]
+
+The very mention of a feast savours in Italy of delightful things, of
+songs, of crowds of happy-looking people bent on the pleasures of a
+holiday as well as on praying for the good of their souls, and as a
+feast at Assisi sounded fairer than any other, we determined to become
+for the moment pilgrims and seek with them for the "Pardon of St.
+Francis." So as the days drew near to August we stood once more on the
+terrace of the Hotel Subasio, and as we felt the cool air of the early
+morning coming from the mountains, long days of interminable heat at
+Florence were forgotten, and Assisi, with her gardens full of
+sweet-scented summer flowers, her streets resounding only with the
+plash of the water of many fountains, seemed to us indeed to possess
+more beauty, variety and brilliancy of colour than we had realised
+before. Never had the nights been so still as in that late July, when
+the peasants had gathered in their harvest and were waiting for the
+time of vintage; only the shrill notes of the crickets answered each
+other occasionally along the valley, and the frogs croaked on the
+margin of the rills below the town. But soon this calmness ceased as
+the country roused itself for the annual spell of madness; there were
+voices in the vineyards during the night, bonfires in the plains, and
+a general tremor of excitement filled men and animals, setting the
+thin Assisan cocks crowing at unearthly hours in the morning. A night
+of sounds and wakefulness preceded a day when the people of all the
+cities and villages near appeared to have arrived in Assisi, not for
+the feast--for it was only the 29th of July--but for the fair. We
+followed them to the Piazza della Minerva, no longer the quiet place
+of former visits when only a few citizens sat sipping their cups of
+coffee, or talked together as they walked leisurely up and down.
+Temples, buildings and frescoes were forgotten as we watched the
+peasants gather round the booths to purchase articles of apparel and
+household wares, bargaining in shrill voices to the delight of
+purchaser, seller and onlooker. All the people of the country seemed
+to be here, and the Umbrian sellers had decked their stalls with a
+dazzling mass of coloured stuffs as attractive to us as to the
+Umbrian women. We bought large kerchiefs with red roses on a yellow
+ground to wear over our heads at the feast, and enormous hats with
+flapping brims, which the peasants, always interested in a neighbour's
+purchase, helped us to choose, saying, "take this one for no rain will
+come through it, and you need never use an umbrella." So a sun-bonnet
+was bought for rain and we went away convinced that no more delightful
+shopping could be done than during a fair day at Assisi, when a
+passing farmer and his family were ready to help us to choose the
+goods and to bargain, and moreover comforted us in the end by the
+assurance that in their opinion the money had been well spent. Later
+we strolled up to the Piazza Nuova, where an immense fair of oxen was
+being held, transforming another sleepy corner of the town into a
+busy, bustling thoroughfare. They were quiet beasts enough and we
+walked in among them stroking their soft noses as we watched the
+groups of excited peasants performing the various rites of selling and
+buying. When an ox was sold the broker joined the hands of vendor and
+purchaser by dint of much pulling, and then shook them up and down,
+shouting all the while, until our joints ached at the sight of this
+energetic signing of a treaty. The bargaining causes enormous
+amusement, the discussion on either side bringing a current of eager
+talk through the crowd; only the oxen were thoroughly weary of the
+whole affair as they gazed pensively at their owners. They were large
+milk-white creatures, the whole place was one white shimmering mass
+seen against the old walls of the town and the blocks of Roman
+masonry, calling up idle fancies of Clitumnus down in the valley just
+in sight, whose fields had given pasture to the oxen of the gods.
+
+The whole of that day Assisi was full of Umbrian men and women greatly
+concerned in buying and selling; but on the next the streets began to
+fill with people from distant parts of Italy, whose only thought was
+for St. Francis. At a very early hour of the 30th we were roused by
+the sound of many voices in the distance; going out on the terrace we
+saw a crowd of pilgrims coming across the plain, and others moving
+with slow steps up the hill. When near the Porta S. Francesco they
+knelt outside in the road and sang their hymn of praise before
+entering the Seraphic City. From dawn to evening a steady stream of
+pilgrims passed into the town, and the chanting, rising and falling
+like a fitful summer breeze, was the only sound to be heard throughout
+the day. Such different groups of people knelt together in the church,
+with nothing in common but the love for the franciscan saint whose
+name was for ever on their lips. They came from distant corners of
+Southern Italy generally in carts drawn by mules or oxen, for few
+could afford the luxury of coming by train. The Neapolitan women and
+those from the Abruzzi wore spotlessly white head-kerchiefs which fell
+round their shoulders like a nun's coif, a white blouse and generally
+a brilliant red or yellow skirt gathered thickly round the hips; the
+men were even more picturesque, with their waistcoats and
+knickerbockers of scarlet cloth, their white shirt sleeves showing,
+and their stockings bound round with leathern thongs. Some of the
+women from the Basilicata wore wonderful necklaces of old workmanship,
+and gold embroidered bands laid across their linen blouses, while long
+pins with huge knobs of beaten silver fastened their headgear of black
+and white cloth. There were two women from the mountains of the
+Basilicata who wore thick cloth turbans, and blue braid plaited in and
+out of their hair at one side, giving them a coquettish air; they
+suffered beneath the burden of their thick stuff dresses made with
+straight short jackets and skirts and big loose sleeves. Their felt
+boots were ill-fitted for Umbrian roads, and altogether they were
+attired for a winter climate and not for a burning August day in mid
+Italy. "Ah, it is cool among our mountains," they said with a sigh
+gazing wearily down at the plain which sent up hot vapours to mingle
+with the dust. Many of them had been three weeks on their journey and
+they look upon it as a great holiday, an event in their lives which
+cannot be often repeated for they are poor and depend for their
+livelihood upon the produce of their fields; but even the poorest
+brings enough to have a mass said at the Portiuncula and to drop some
+coppers on the altar steps. A few wandered through the Upper Church
+looking at Giotto's frescoes, but unable to read the story for
+themselves turned to us for an explanation when we happened to be
+there. They patted our faces, saying _carina_ by way of thanks, but
+realised little or nothing about the saint they had come so far to
+honour, only being certain that his intercession was all powerful.
+Several peasants sat in turn upon the beautiful Papal throne in the
+choir, both as a cure and as a preventive against possible ailments,
+and thinking there was some legend as to its miraculous qualities we
+asked them to tell us about it. They looked up surprised and very
+simply said, "It stands in the church of San Francesco," this was
+enough in their eyes to explain all miracles and wonders. A favourite
+occupation was kneeling by the entrance door of the Lower Church and
+listening for mysterious sounds which are said to come from the small
+column fixed in the ground. "What are you doing," we asked, cruelly
+disturbing the devotion of an old man in our desire for information.
+"I am listening to the voice of St. Francis," he answered, telling us
+that we might hear it too, but as he was in no hurry to cede his place
+to others we had no chance of verifying his strange assertion. The
+priests had a double function to perform, for while hearing
+confessions they held a long rod in their hands with which they tapped
+the heads of the peasants passing down the church; it was a blessing,
+which by the ignorant might be mistaken for some mysterious kind of
+fishing in invisible waters. At first the northern mind was surprised
+at the familiar way the pilgrims used the churches as their home, many
+being too poor to afford a lodging in the town. Especially at the
+Angeli we saw the strange uses side altars were put to; a family,
+having heard several masses and duly performed all their spiritual
+duties, would settle themselves comfortably on the broad steps of an
+altar, unfasten their bundles and proceed to breakfast off large
+hunches of bread and a mug of water; what remained of the water was
+employed in washing their feet. One man who had tramped for many days
+along dusty roads and wished to change his clothes, conceived the
+novel idea of retiring into a confessional box for the purpose. His
+wife handed him in the clean things and presently he drew aside the
+curtain, and emerged in spotless festive apparel with his travelling
+suit tied up in a large red handkerchief.
+
+  [Illustration: WOMEN FROM THE BASILICATA]
+
+Late in the evening of the 30th we happened to be at the Angeli when a
+new batch of pilgrims arrived, and for a long time we watched them
+reverently approach the Portiuncula on their knees, singing all the
+time the pilgrim's hymn with the ever-recurring refrain, "Evviva Maria
+e Chi la creo," which resounded through the church in long drawn nasal
+notes ending in a kind of stifled cry. There was something soothing in
+the plaintive, monotonous cadence as it reached us at the Garden of
+the Roses, where we had gone to breathe the cool air which blows
+across the open colonnade even on the hottest of summer days. We were
+listening to Father Bernardine's peaceful talk about St. Francis and
+the cicala which sang to him in the fig tree, and the lamb which
+followed the brethren to office, when suddenly we were startled by
+shrieks and screams in the church. "It is nothing, only the
+Neapolitans," said Father Bernardine, smiling at our distress. But
+unable longer to bear what sounded like the moanings of the wind which
+always fills one with uneasy feelings, half of fear, half of
+expectation that something unusual is going to happen, we hurried once
+again into the church. There a sight met our eyes which we shall never
+forget. Lying full length on the ground, their faces prone upon the
+pavement, were women crawling slowly, so slowly that the torture
+seemed interminable, from the entrance of the great church to the
+Portiuncula, and as they crawled they licked the floor with their
+tongues leaving behind them a mark like the trail of a slug. As we
+watched these poor penitents dragging themselves along, unconscious of
+aught around them and only overwhelmed by the consciousness that they
+must make atonement for past sins, a terrible sense of compassion,
+misery and disgust came over us. Who could restrain their tears,
+though they may have been tears of anger that people should be allowed
+to practise such ignoble acts of self-abasement. One girl especially
+called forth all our sympathy. She came running in out of the
+sunlight, and after standing for a moment at the entrance with her
+eager face uplifted towards the holy shrine, her eyes alight with the
+strange look of one bent upon some great resolve, she threw herself
+down full length upon the ground and commenced the terrible penance
+which she had come all the way from the Abruzzi mountains to
+perform.[114] She was very slight and her black skirt fell round her
+like a veil, showing the delicate outline of her figure against the
+marble pavement. Resting her naked feet against the knees of a man
+kneeling behind her, she pushed herself forward with the movement of a
+caterpillar. Another man tapped his pilgrim's staff sharply on the
+floor in front of her face to direct her towards the chapel, whilst
+her mother ever now and then bent down to smooth away the tangle of
+dark hair which fell round the girl like a shroud. Though prematurely
+aged by toil and suffering, the elder woman had a beautiful face,
+reminding one of a Mater Dolorosa as with bitter tears she assisted at
+her daughter's deep humiliation. Just as this sad little group neared
+the Portiuncula the girl stopped as though her strength were
+exhausted, when the mother, choked by sobs, lifted the heavy masses of
+her daughter's hair and tried to raise her from the ground. The
+pilgrims pressed round singing "Evviva Maria e Chi la creo" until the
+sound became deafening, while the men struck the ground almost angrily
+with their sticks, and at last the girl still licking the ground
+crawled forward once again. When she reached the altar of the
+Portiuncula she stretched out one hand and touched the iron gates, and
+then like a worm rearing itself in the air and turning from side to
+side, she dragged herself on to her knees. As consciousness returned
+and the Southern blood coursed again like fire through her veins, she
+started to her feet and with wild cries entreated San Francesco to
+hear her, beating the gates with her hands and swaying from side to
+side. The cry of a wounded animal might recall to one's memory the
+prayer of that young girl, storming heaven with notes of passionate
+entreaty wrung from a soul in great mental agony. Other penitents came
+up to take her place almost pushing her out of the chapel. We last saw
+her fast asleep on the steps of a side altar curled up like a tired
+dog, but on her face was an expression of great calm as though she had
+indeed found the peace sought in so repulsive and terrible a manner.
+Silently we left the church and turned towards Assisi, breathing with
+joy the pure air and looking long at the hills lying so calm and clear
+around us. Next day, the 31st of July, there was an excited feeling in
+the town, not among the Umbrians, for they take the annual feast of
+the "Perdono" quietly enough, but among the pilgrims, who having now
+arrived in hundreds and paid their first visit to the franciscan
+churches of the hill and of the plain, stood about in the lower piazza
+of San Francesco waiting with evident impatience for the opening of
+the feast of the afternoon. We caught their feeling of expectation and
+found it impossible to do aught else than watch the people from the
+balcony, and then we went down and wandered about among them. There
+were such tired groups of women under the _loggie_ of the piazza,
+leaning back in the shadow of the arches with their shawls drawn
+across their faces to shut out the glare of the August sun. A crowd of
+girls rested on the little patch of grass near the church, some
+eating their bread, others sleepily watching the constant passage of
+people in and out of the church; for long spaces they sat silent,
+listlessly waiting, then suddenly one among them would rise and sing a
+southern song, sounding so strange in Umbria. Her companions, casting
+off the desire to sleep, joined in the chorus until the song was ended
+and they once more became silent watchers. The shadows began to deepen
+round the church, the feeling of expectation increased, and the hours
+of waiting seemed long to the crowd and to us, when about four o'clock
+the dense mass of people in front of the church divided. A procession
+of priests in yellow copes filed out of the Basilica, one among them
+carrying the autograph benediction of St. Francis (see p. 210), and
+went to the little chapel near the Chiesa Nuova built over the stable
+where the saint is said to have been born. Here the holy relic is
+raised for the faithful to venerate, and the procession returns to San
+Francesco. It is a small but important ceremony, the prelude to the
+granting of the indulgence. We had reached the chapel before the
+procession, through side streets, but soon returned to the lower
+church for the crowd was intolerable, and we had been warned that once
+the blessing had been given a mad rush might be made to reach San
+Francesco and that sometimes people were trampled under foot. Out of
+the burning heat we entered the cool dark church where Umbrian
+peasants had already taken their places, as spectators, but not as
+actors in the feast. Seated on low benches against the wall they
+formed wondrous groups of colour, like clumps of cyclamen and
+primroses we have seen flowering in a wood upon an Italian roadside.
+The gates across the church had been shut, and were guarded by
+gendarmes; we had arrived too late. But presently Fra Luigi appeared
+at the gate of St. Martin's chapel, and hurriedly we followed him down
+the dark, narrow passage leading to the sacristy; we had only just
+time to run across the church and take our places outside the chapel
+of St. Mary Magdalen, when the great crowd surged into the church. The
+excitement became intense, and the pilgrims who had followed in the
+procession as docile as lambs now could restrain themselves no longer,
+and hustled the priests forward, pressing them against the iron gates
+in their efforts to approach the altar. There was a moment of tension
+as the whole of the iron screen bent beneath the weight of the crowd
+when the gendarmes half opened the gate to allow the priests to pass
+through. With the relic swaying above their heads, they slipped in
+from among the pilgrims, who, finding the gates once more barred
+against them, began to moan and shout with deafening fury. The organ
+pealed forth mad music, the incense rose in clouds around the altar,
+and eager faces peered through the gates, which were battered with
+angry fists as the people pushed against each other so that the whole
+crowd rocked from side to side. Through it all stood the quiet figure
+of the priest, raising the relic high above the heads of the people
+whose voices were for the moment hushed, as the words of benediction
+were pronounced. Rapidly crossing the church, followed by his
+attendants, he entered the sacristy and shut the door, while four
+gendarmes stationed themselves at the corners of the altar to prevent
+people from mounting the steps, and others went to unbar the gates.
+There was a great creaking of bolts and hinges and in a moment the
+pilgrims rushed forward, afraid of losing even a single moment of the
+precious hours of indulgence, and cries of "San Francesco" almost
+drowned the sound of hurrying footsteps. Families caught each other by
+the arms and swept wildly round the altar, often knocking people down
+in their wild career, old women gathered up their skirts and ran, the
+Abruzzesi in their scarlet jackets, whom we had seen so calmly walking
+down the streets, stepped eagerly forward with outstretched arms and
+clasped hands calling loudly on the saint. Round they went in a
+perpetual circle, first past the altar, then through the Maddalena
+chapel out into the Piazza, and back again without a single pause.
+Each time they entered the church they gained a new plenary
+indulgence. From the walls the frescoed saints leant towards us, and
+never had they seemed so full of peace and beauty, as on that day of
+hurry and strange excitement. We saw them through a mist of dust, but
+they were more real to us than the fanatics streaming past in mad
+career, and we greeted them as friends. Then as the sun went down in a
+crimson sky behind the Perugian hills, a great stillness fell upon the
+people, the gaining of indulgences for that day had ceased, and
+quietly those who had no shelters went into the country lanes to pass
+the night, or rested beneath a gateway of the town. Already Assisi was
+returning to her long spell of silence, for next morning at dawn the
+pilgrims would be on their road to Sta. Maria degli Angeli for the
+early morning mass.
+
+  [Illustration: SAN FRANCESCO AND THE LOWER PIAZZA]
+
+Rashly we left the quietness of the town to join the crowd again down
+in the plain late the next afternoon when the feast was nearly over.
+The press of people was felt more at the Angeli than at San Francesco,
+as they gained the indulgence by simply walking round the church and
+through the Portiuncula without going outside. It was useless to
+struggle, or to attempt to go the way we wanted, for we were simply
+carried off our feet and borne round the church in breathless haste in
+the temperature of a Turkish bath. There were moments of suspense when
+we doubted, as the crowd bore us swiftly forward, whether we should
+pass the confessional boxes without being crushed against the sharp
+corners. The cries of "Evviva Maria, Evviva San Francesco," became
+deafening as we neared the Portiuncula, and the people surged through
+the doors, throwing handfuls of coppers and silver coins upon the
+altar steps, and even at the picture of the Madonna above the altar in
+their extraordinary enthusiasm. How tired they looked, but in their
+eyes was a fixed look showing the feelings which spurred them on to
+gain as much grace as time would allow. They never paused, they never
+rested. With a last glance back upon the people and the names of Mary
+and Frances ringing in our ears we left the stifling atmosphere for
+the burning, but pure air outside.
+
+How peaceful it all seemed in comparison to the scene we had just
+witnessed. The Piazza was full of booths as on a market day, with rows
+of coloured handkerchiefs, sea-green dresses such as the peasants
+like, and endless toys and religious objects; old women sat under
+large green umbrellas selling cakes, and cooks, in white aprons and
+caps, stood by their pots and pans ready to serve you an excellent
+meal. From under a tree a man sprang up as we passed with something of
+the pilgrim's eagerness about him, saying, "See, I will sing you a
+song and dance for you," shaking his companions from their sleep and
+snatching up his accordion, he began a wild, warlike dance upon the
+grass, while the others accompanied him with an endless chant. And so
+the hours crept on, until once again as the sun went down the pilgrims
+streamed quietly out of the church, but this time they gathered up
+their bundles and walked to the ox waggons which were standing ready
+in the road, and quite silently without delay they seated themselves,
+fifteen or twenty in a cart, to start upon their long journey home.
+
+Never had the town been so deadly still as on the 2nd of August, when
+the inhabitants had gone down the hill to the church of the Angeli
+where they sought to obtain their indulgences now the pilgrims had
+departed. Very quietly they knelt on the marble floor during the High
+Mass, silently they prayed, and with slow reverent steps they passed
+in and out of the Portiuncula until the Vesper hour, and the
+beautiful, calm evening then found them gathered round the altar of
+their saint. "Pray, ye poor people, chant and pray. If all be but a
+dream to wake from this were loss for you indeed."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[112] St. Francis called the Portiuncula Santa Maria degli Angeli, but
+now the name is more connected with the large church. See p. 97.
+
+[113] St. Dominic was present at this famous gathering, and the
+_Fioretti_ gives a curious account of the way in which he watched the
+doings of a brother saint, at first a little inclined to criticise his
+methods, so different to his own, but finally being won over by the
+franciscan doctrine of absolute poverty.
+
+[114] Those who know the teaching of St. Francis (see _Fioretti_,
+chap. xiii.) will feel how the saint would have fought against this
+device for the expiation of sins, invented by the priests of Southern
+Italy. No Umbrian has ever sunk to such depths of self-abasement, and
+during all the first days of the "Perdono" festival they keep aloof,
+waiting till the pilgrims' departure before obtaining their
+indulgences.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+To visitors who stay at Assisi for more than the usual hurried day,
+the following notes of walks and excursions may be of some use. A few
+of them have been already indicated by M. Paul Sabatier, in a paper
+printed at Assisi, to explain the sixteenth century map of the town
+found by him in the Palazzo Pubblico, of which a copy hangs in a room
+in the Hotel Subasio.
+
+_In the Town._--The public garden on the slope of the hill above the
+Via Metastasio is a delightful place. It was the ilex wood of the
+Cappucine convent until the present garden was laid out in 1882 by
+Sig. Alfonso Brizzi, when the friars' convent became a home for the
+aged poor.
+
+_From Porta S. Giacomo._--(_a_) A new idea of Assisi is obtained by
+following the mountain track from the Campo Santo round by the
+quarries and below the Castle to Porta Perlici. Looking across the
+ravine of the Tescio and up the valley of Gualdo and Nocera is a
+vision of Umbrian country in its austerest mood. Even if the whole of
+this walk cannot be taken we recommend all to follow the broad smooth
+road leading to the Campo Santo for a little, as the view of San
+Francesco and the valley beyond is very beautiful. (_b_) By taking the
+Via di Fontanella (see map), straight down the hillside, the
+picturesque bridge of S. Croce is reached in about twenty minutes. M.
+Sabatier recommends the ascent of Col Caprile just opposite for the
+fine view of Assisi, but those who do not care for an hour's climb
+would do well, having seen the old bridge and its charming
+surroundings, to retrace their steps, and after about two minutes turn
+off to the right through the fields along a narrow footpath leading to
+a bridge over the Tescio and a farmhouse. Following the right bank of
+the torrent we reach the Ponte S. Vittorino (see map), and return to
+the town by the old road skirting the walls of the franciscan convent
+and emerging opposite the Porta S. Francesco. Want of space prevents
+more being said than to urge all visitors to go this walk, which is
+little known and will be found one of the loveliest they have ever
+seen. Every step brings something new; banks of orchis and cyclamen,
+glimpses of crimson and yellow rock in the brushwood by the hillside,
+the soft blue distance of the valley beyond, and above all,
+innumerable views of San Francesco, seen now with a bridge in the
+foreground, now framed in by the curved and spreading branches of an
+oak, and at every turn carrying our thoughts away to valleys of
+Southern France and fortress-churches crowning the wooded hills (see
+illustrations, pp. 215, 220). To realise the variety of scenery to be
+found in Umbria we must come to Assisi and hunt out her hidden lanes
+and byways.
+
+_From Porta Perlici._--(_a_) Out of this gate, turning to the left by
+the city walls, is one of the roads leading to the Castle; the others
+are clearly marked on the map. (_b_) The carriage road to Gualdo and
+Nocera goes for some miles along the valley, but is not completed.
+
+_From Porta Cappucini._--(_a_) The Rocca Minore is reached by a grass
+path going up the hill just inside the walls. A fine view of the
+eastern slope of Assisi is obtained (see illustration, p. 10). (_b_)
+The Carceri is about an hour's walk from this gate, donkeys are to be
+had in the town for the excursion, or a small carriage drawn by a
+horse and a pair of oxen can get there, but it is the least pleasant
+way of going.
+
+_From Porta Nuova._--(_a_) A pleasant though not the shortest way back
+to the town, is the one which skirts round the hill inside the
+mediaeval walls from this gate to Porta Mojano, and then outside the
+walls through the fields past the Portaccia to the carriage road just
+below Porta S. Pietro. (_b_) The ascent of Monte Subasio occupies
+about two hours and a half, though quick walkers will do it in less
+time. There are several paths which anyone will indicate to the
+traveller. The easiest, though the longest (about four hours), is the
+one mentioned by M. Sabatier, the road to Gabbiano and Satriano, which
+branches off to the left from the Foligno road not far from the Porta
+Nuova. After walking along the Gabbiano road for an hour, a lane leads
+up the hill for another hour to the ruined abbey of San Benedetto (p.
+82). The path skirts the mountain to Sasso Rosso, three quarters of an
+hour, the site of the fortress of the family of St. Clare, and then
+one hour and a half brings us to the southern slope of Mount Subasio
+called the Civitelle, where the craters of the extinct volcano are to
+be seen. The highest point (1290 metres), is reached in another half
+hour. The view is very fine; Nocera and Gualdo lie to the north, Monte
+Amiata to the west, a range of snowy mountains to the south, Mount
+Terminillo, the Sabine Appenines and the mountains of the Abruzzi, and
+Mount Sibella to the east. The return to Assisi, without passing the
+Carceri, takes two hours. (_c_) The road to San Damiano is marked on
+the map; it is good but very steep, requiring oxen to draw the
+carriage up the hill on the return. On foot it is only a quarter of an
+hour from the gate. (_d_) A long day's drive will take the traveller
+to Spello, Foligno and Montefalco, but it is a tiring excursion and
+only a faint idea can be obtained of these beautiful Umbrian towns. It
+is better, if possible, to give a day to each, and to see Bevagna,
+with her two exquisite romanesque buildings, on the way to Montefalco.
+
+_From Porta Mojano._--(_a_) To follow the path taken by St. Francis,
+when carried from the bishop's palace to the Portiuncula (p. 111),
+just before his death, we must take the road leading from the gateway
+to a small chapel, and turn to the right down a lane marked Valecchio
+on the map. St. Francis either passed through Porta Mojano or the
+Portaccia (now closed), but from here we follow in his footsteps
+straight down the hill to the hamlet of Valecchio, set so charmingly
+on a grass plot among the walnut trees, with part of its watch tower
+still standing (p. 104). In the plain we come to cross roads; the one
+on the left leads to San Damiano in about forty minutes, that to the
+right to the leper hospital (now known as S. Agostino), whence St.
+Francis blessed Assisi for the last time (p. 111). (_b_) From the gate
+a few minutes brings us to a path crossing the fields to the left, to
+the old church of S. Masseo built in 1081 by Lupone Count of Assisi to
+serve as a chapel to the monastery, now the dwelling place of peasant
+families. (_c_) From Porta Mojano a lane leads straight down to the
+plain, and just before reaching the high road where it crosses the
+railway at right angles, the chapel of S. Rufino d'Arce--the real
+Rivo-Torto--is seen in the fields to the left (see pp. 93-95). By the
+side of the lane close to the railway line is the chapel of Sta. Maria
+Maddalena (see pp. 93-95). This is about half an hour's walk.
+
+_From Porta S. Francesco._--There are several drives. (_a_) Perugia.
+(_b_) Bastia, the first station on the railway between Assisi and
+Perugia, possessing a triptych by Niccolo da Foligno. A beautiful view
+of the river Chiaggio is obtained at the bridge of Bastiola. (_c_) A
+road from the Angeli branches off to Torre d'Andrea, where there is a
+picture by a scholar of Pinturicchio. But more delightful is the
+chapel of S. Simone a little further on, built right in the midst of
+the cornfields, whose walls are covered with frescoes of the fifteenth
+and sixteenth centuries. (_d_) A beautiful drive is to the Rocca di
+Petrignano, a hill-set village above the Chiaggio. To fully recount
+its story, the picturesqueness of its rock-cut streets and the charm
+of the chapel upon the heights, whose walls are covered from floor to
+roof with votive Madonnas and saints, would need a chapter to itself.
+It has been enthusiastically described by M. Broussolle in his
+_Pelerinages Ombriens_, but it may be well to remark that he calls the
+Rocca di Petrignano, for some unknown reason, the Rocca d'Assisi.
+(_e_) It is an hour and a half's walk to the church of S. Fortunato,
+across the bridge of S. Vittorino, recommended by M. Sabatier in his
+list of excursions. The way side chapel of S. Bartolo, with its
+interesting apse is passed on the way.
+
+It would be well to get the Italian military map, Fo. 123 (either at
+Seeber, Via Tornabuoni, Florence, or at D. Terese, Perugia), if the
+pilgrim to Assisi wishes to explore the country round Assisi.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+    A
+
+  AGNES, Blessed, persecution of, 263; enters convent of San
+  Damiano, 264; assists at death-bed of St. Clare, 271.
+
+  AGOSTINO DA SIENA, tomb by, 189.
+
+  ALBI, Cathedral of, 129.
+
+  ALBORNOZ, Cardinal, takes Assisi, 23; rebuilds castle, 24, 326;
+  builds chapel in San Francesco, 24, 193; builds portion of
+  colonnade of convent, 221; 327.
+
+  ALESSI, Galeazzo, _note [80]_ 193; remodels San Rufino, 296;
+  designs cupola of the Angeli, 335.
+
+  ALEXANDER IV, Pope, 207; canonizes St. Clare, 280.
+
+  ---- VI, Pope, 330; 331.
+
+  ALUNNO, _see_ Niccolo da Foligno.
+
+  ANGELO, Brother, 72; 271.
+
+  ANGELI, Padre, book by, _note [57]_ 106, 152.
+
+  ANTHONY, St., of Padua, at Assisi, 140; 166; 192; 250.
+
+  ANSANO, St., 304; 320.
+
+  AREZZO, 20; 239.
+
+  ARLES, Apparition of St. Francis at, 250.
+
+  ARNO, 72; 250.
+
+  ARNOLD, Matthew, quoted, 55.
+
+  ASSISI, passim.
+
+  AVIGNON, Popes at, 21; _note [89]_ 209.
+
+
+    B
+
+  _Baglioni_, The, besiege and take Assisi, 33, 34, 210; feud with
+  the Fiumi, 33; _note [101]_ 259; downfall of, 36.
+
+  ---- Gian Paolo, 34, 334.
+
+  ---- Malatesta, 331.
+
+  _Bagnora_, St. Bonaventure born at, _note [95]_ 229.
+
+  _Basileo_, Bishop, builds first church of San Rufino, 292.
+
+  _Bastia_, Benedictine convent at, 105, 262, 263.
+
+  _Benedict_, St., repairs the Portiuncula, 99, 100.
+
+  BENEDICTINES, Abbey of, on Mount Subasio, 82, 83; gifts of, to St.
+  Francis, 84, 103, 264.
+
+  BERENSON, Bernhard, 171; quoted, 198, 199, 207, 208; 251; 257.
+
+  BERNARD of Quintavalle, 48; 94; 114; 182; 273; house of, 308.
+
+  BERNARDINE, St., of Siena, 206; 221; 340.
+
+  BERNARDONE, Pietro, family of, _note [22]_ 41; quarrels with St.
+  Francis, 47, 235, 278, 309; house of, 307; shop of, 308.
+
+  BEVAGNA, Roman battles near., 5; St. Francis preaches to the birds
+  at, 62, 244.
+
+  BLASCO, Ferdinando, tomb of, 194.
+
+  ---- Garzia, tomb of, 194.
+
+  BOLOGNA, St. Francis preaches at, 56.
+
+  BONAVENTURE, St., quoted, 69, 229-256; _note [76]_ 181; 206; 210;
+  273; 274; 338.
+
+  BONIFACE VIII, Pope, seeks counsel of Guido of Montefeltro, 223.
+
+  BORGIA, Lucrezia, 330.
+
+  BRIENNE, Gauthier de, 45; 232.
+
+  BROGLIA di TRINO, 25; 83; 328.
+
+  BRIZI, Alfonso, _note [109]_ 322; _note [111]_ 329.
+
+  ----, Giuseppe, 197.
+
+  BURCKHARDT, J., 164.
+
+
+    C
+
+  CAMPELLO, Fra Filippo, aids in building San Francesco, 129; builds
+  Santa Chiara, 281.
+
+  CARCERI, Hermitage of the, 27; 81; given to St. Francis by the
+  Benedictines, 84; road to, 84, 85; story of, 86-93.
+
+  CARMICHAEL, W. Montgomery, 211.
+
+  CASTLE, The, of Assisi (ROCCA D'ASSISI), building of, 11, 326;
+  Frederick II, stays at, 13, 326; destruction of, 14, 326; rebuilt
+  by Albornoz, 24, 326; story of, 325-334.
+
+  CELANO, quoted, 42, 43, 44; _note [41]_ 69; his description of St.
+  Francis, 212; 229.
+
+  ---- Knight of, 246.
+
+  CHARLEMAGNE, Emperor, besieges Assisi, 11; rebuilds Assisi, 11,
+  326.
+
+  CHIAGGIO, River, 103; _note [101]_ 259; St. Rufino martyred in
+  the, 291.
+
+  CIMABUE, Giovanni, 153; legends about, 154; Madonna by, in San
+  Francesco (Lower Church), 155; frescoes in San Francesco (Upper
+  Church), 156-160; Giotto adopted by, 169; Giotto completes works
+  of, at Assisi, 170; 228; 284.
+
+  CHURCH OF SANTA CHIARA, sacked by Niccolo Piccinino, 28, 29;
+  building of, 281, 282; frescoes in, 283; portrait of St. Clare in,
+  284; church of San Giorgio in, 285, 286; tomb of St. Clare found
+  in, 287; body of St. Clare in, 288.
+
+  ---- SAN DAMIANO, Niccolo Piccinino stays at, 26; body of St.
+  Francis brought to, 119, 253, 267; St. Clare and her nuns live at,
+  264, _et seq._; attacked by army of Frederick II, 267, 268;
+  Innocent IV, at, 274, 278; relics at, 274, 275; crucifix of, 276,
+  277; choir of St. Clare at, 277; bought by the Marquess of Ripon,
+  278; frescoes in, 278, 279; funeral service of St. Clare held at,
+  279, 280; miraculous crucifix of, 274, 285.
+
+  ---- SAN FRANCESCO, building of, 123, _et seq._; architect of,
+  124, 125; convent of, 124; 133; 139; 221; 223; 227; resemblance to
+  cathedral of Albi, 129; St. Francis buried in, 133, 135; legend
+  about, 136; 144; 146; in the first years, 215, 216; campanile of,
+  216; _note [92]_ 219; bells of, 219; feast of the "Perdono" in,
+  351, 352, 357-359.
+
+  ---- ---- LOWER CHURCH, The, 149, 150; pre-Giottesque frescoes in,
+  151, 152, 153; Madonna by Cimabue in, 155; Giotto's frescoes of
+  the early life of Christ in, 171, _et seq._; Giotto's frescoes of
+  the miracles of St. Francis in, 174; Giotto's allegories in 177,
+  _et seq._; Chapel del Sacramento or of St. Nicholas in,185, _et
+  seq._; stained glass windows in, 189; 192; 193; 205; 206; 209;
+  frescoes by Giotto in chapel of St. Maria Maddalena in, 190, _et
+  seq._; chapel of St. Antonio da Padova in, 192; chapel of San
+  Stefano in, 192; chapel of St. Catherine or del Crocifisso in,
+  193; chapel of St. Antonio in, 193; cemetery of, 195; tomb of
+  Ecuba in, 195; tomb of St. Francis in, 196, 197; chapel of St.
+  Martin in, 198; legend of St. Martin, frescoes by Simone Martini
+  in, 199, _et seq._; frescoes by Simone Martini in, 212, 215;
+  frescoes above the papal throne in, 206, 207; frescoes by Pietro
+  Lorenzetti in, 207, 208; chapel of St. Giovanno Battista in, 208;
+  sacristies in, 209, _et seq._; portrait of St Francis in, 211;
+  porch of, 220.
+
+  ---- ---- UPPER CHURCH, The, _note [69]_ 152; 156; frescoes by
+  Cimabue in, 158-160; frescoes by contemporaries of Cimabue in,
+  160, _et seq._; stained glass windows in, 164, _et seq._; papal
+  throne, pulpit and altar in, 166, 167; door of, 219; Giotto's
+  frescoes of the legend of St. Francis in, 229-250; frescoes by a
+  follower of Giotto in, 254-256; intarsia stalls in, 256.
+
+  ---- SAN GIORGIO, St. Francis canonized in, 121; 273; body of St.
+  Clare brought to, 279, 280; church of Santa Chiara built over,
+  281; frescoes in, 285.
+
+  ---- SANTA MARIA degli ANGELI, building of, 335; rebuilt after
+  earthquake, 336; works of Andrea della Robbia in, 336, 338; works
+  of Giunta Pisano in, 337, 338; the Portiuncula in, 337 (_see_
+  Portiuncula); fresco by Perugino in, 337; garden and chapel of the
+  Roses in, 339, 340; frescoes by Lo Spagna in, 338, 341; frescoes
+  by Tiberio d'Assisi at, 341; feast of the "Perdono" at, 353-355,
+  359-361.
+
+  ---- SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE, franciscan legend connected with, 235,
+  308, 309, 310.
+
+  ---- CHIESA NUOVA, 307; 308.
+
+  ---- SAN PAOLO, 303; fresco by Matteo da Gualdo in, 304.
+
+  CHURCH OF SAN PIETRO, 312; triptych by Matteo da Gualdo in, 313;
+  fresco in, 313.
+
+  ---- PELLEGRINI, _see_ Confraternity.
+
+  ---- SAN RUFINO (Cathedral), Frederick II, baptised in, 13; 289;
+  church beneath, 292; building of, 294; bell-tower of, 290, 294,
+  301; doors of, 294, 295; interior of, 296; triptych by Niccolo da
+  Foligno in, 296, 297; connection with St. Francis, 238, 299.
+
+  CLARE, St., parentage of, 258; description of, 259; founds order
+  of Poor Clares, 104, 262; delivers her sister Agnes from her
+  persecutors, 263; goes to live at San Damiano, 264; friendship
+  with St. Francis, 62, 77, 265; last farewell to St. Francis, 119,
+  267; saves her convent and Assisi from the Saracens, 267, 268; her
+  struggle with the Papacy, 270, 271; death of, 272; miracle of the
+  bread by, 274, 275; canonization and funeral of, 280; church of,
+  281; early picture of, 284; body of, 288.
+
+  CLEMENT VII, Pope, 331.
+
+  CLITUMNUS, river, 5; Propertius lived near, 8; 350.
+
+  COMACINE builders, Guild of, 321; house of, in Assisi, 322.
+
+  CONFRATERNITY of SAN CRISPINO, 316.
+
+  ---- SAN FRANCESCUCCIO, 315; frescoes at, 316.
+
+  ---- SAN LORENZO, fresco at, 323.
+
+  ---- DEI PELLEGRINI, 316; frescoes by Matteo da Gualdo in, 317,
+  318; frescoes by Mezzastris in, 318-320; fresco by Fiorenzo di
+  Lorenzo in, 320.
+
+  ---- SAN RUFINUCCIO, frescoes in, 185, 323.
+
+  CONRAD of SUABIA, 13; 326.
+
+  CONVENT of SANTA CHIARA, 281; 282.
+
+  ---- of SAN FRANCESCO, 124; 133; 139; 221; Guido of Montefeltro
+  lives in, 223; 227.
+
+  CORROYER, E., quoted, 129.
+
+  CORTONA, 117; 144.
+
+  CORYTHUS, King of Cortona, 2.
+
+  COSTANO, 291; 297.
+
+  CHRISTINE, Queen of Sweden, 222.
+
+  CROWE & CAVALCASELLE, Messrs, quoted, 162, 174, 176, 187; 171;
+  251.
+
+
+    D
+
+  DAMIANO, San, _see_ Church.
+
+  DANTE, quoted, 14, 71, 168, 182, 184, 186, 224, 236, 250; portrait
+  of, by Giotto, 176, 182.
+
+  DANTI, GIULIO, _note [80]_ 193; designs cupola of the Angeli, 335.
+
+  DARDANUS, 2; 3; 4.
+
+  DOMENICO da SAN SEVERINO, designs stalls for San Francesco, 256.
+
+  DOMINIC, St., 17; _note [95]_ 229; _note [113]_ 345.
+
+  DONI ADONE, 192; 307.
+
+
+    E
+
+  ECUBA, Queen of Cyprus, tomb of, 195.
+
+  EGIDIO, Brother, 48; 50; 94; 111; quoted, 117; _note [59]_ 118;
+  132.
+
+  ELIAS, Brother, 51; influence of, on the franciscan order, 122,
+  130, 132; superintends building of San Francesco, 124, _et seq._;
+  character of, 137; hides body of St. Francis, 135; _note [81]_
+  196; account of, 137-146; _note [69]_ 152; 306.
+
+  ELISEI, Canon, 292.
+
+  ETRUSCANS, The, found Perugia, 4; 5.
+
+  EUSEBIO di SAN GIORGIO, fresco by, 278.
+
+
+    F
+
+  FIORENZO di LORENZO, 165; frescoes by, in Assisi, 306, 307, 320.
+
+  FIORETTI, The, quoted, 49, 50, 59, 68, 88, 111, 137, 138, 266,
+  345; charm of, 66.
+
+  FIUMI, Jacopo, murders the Nepis, 32; 33; robs sacristy of San
+  Francesco, 210; despot of Assisi, 331.
+
+  FIUMI, The, their rivalry with the Nepis, 31, 32; mother of St.
+  Clare belongs to family of, 259.
+
+  FLAGELLANTS, The, _note [35]_ 60; 178; 314.
+
+  FORTEBRACCIO, Braccio, 25.
+
+  FRANCIS, St., birth of, 15; teaching of, 16, 18; childhood of, 41;
+  description of, by Celano, 42, 212; imprisoned at Perugia, 43;
+  conversion of, 44; dream of, at Spoleto, 45, 232; his symbol of
+  the Lady Poverty, 46, 53; succours the lepers, 46, 95; first
+  foundation of the Order, 48, 49; interview of, with Innocent III,
+  52, 53; rule sanctioned by Innocent III, 54, 237; eloquent
+  preaching of, 55, 56, 57, 59; gives St. Clare the veil, 56, 105,
+  262; founds Third Order, 60; preaches before the Sultan of Egypt,
+  61, 240; sermon of, to the birds at Bevagna, 62, 244; love of
+  nature, 63, 64, 65; converts the wolf of Gubbio, 65; friendship
+  with Gregory IX (Bishop Ugolino), 69; preaches before Honorius
+  III, 71, 249; stays at La Vernia, 71, 72; receives the Stigmata at
+  La Vernia, 73, 74; farewell to La Vernia, 75; blindness of, 76,
+  116; composes the Canticle to the Sun, 78; elects the Carceri as
+  his hermitage, 81-83; cell of, at the Carceri, 86; challenges the
+  nightingale to sing the praises of God at the Carceri, 87; dries
+  up the torrent, 88; causes a miraculous fountain to appear at the
+  Carceri, 91; prophecy of, to Otto IV, 96; goes to the Portiuncula
+  with his brethren, 97; visits the Portiuncula as a child, 102;
+  obtains the Portiuncula as a gift, 103, 104; hut of, _note [57]_
+  106, 340; blesses Assisi, 113; dictates his will, 114; death of,
+  115, 116; funeral of, 119, 120; canonisation of, 121, 153; church
+  built in honour of, 123, _et seq._; secret burial of, 134-136;
+  influence of, on Elias, 138, 139; miracles of, 176, 239, 243, 254,
+  255, 256; fresco of marriage with the Lady Poverty, 181; tomb of,
+  196, 197; autograph of, 210, 211; portrait of, by Giunta Pisano,
+  211; legends of, illustrated by Giotto and a follower, 229-256;
+  obtains San Damiano as a gift, 264; friendship of, with St Clare,
+  265, 266; statue of, by Andrea della Robbia, 338; garden of, 339,
+  340; roses flower in the snow for, 340; obtains the indulgence of
+  the Portiuncula, 342, 343; proclaims the indulgence, 344.
+
+  FREDERICK I., Emperor, at Assisi, 13.
+
+  ---- II, Emperor, at Assisi, 13; 61; befriends Elias, 142; 143;
+  144; 217; army of, besieges Assisi, 267-269; 326.
+
+  FRY, Roger, quoted, 156, 228, 243.
+
+  FOLIGNO, 222; 278.
+
+  ---- Niccolo da, _see_ Niccolo.
+
+
+    G
+
+  GENTILE de MONTEFLORI, Cardinal, founds chapel in San Francesco,
+  192, _note [82]_ 198; 205.
+
+  GIACOMA da SETTESOLI, friendship of, with St. Francis, 114; tomb
+  of, 207.
+
+  GIOTTINO, _note [78]_ 186; 283.
+
+  GIOTTO, birth of, 108; adopted by Cimabue, 169; character of, 170,
+  178; first early frescoes of, at Assisi, 171-177; poem of, on
+  poverty, 178; Allegories by, 181-184; frescoes by, in chapel of
+  Sta. Maria Maddalena, 188; genius of, 228; illustrates legend of
+  St. Francis, 229-250; characteristics of, 229, 232, 255;
+  architecture of, 231; contemporary opinion on, 244; follower of,
+  at Assisi, 185, 251.
+
+  GIOVANNI da GUBBIO, builds San Rufino, 294; 309.
+
+  GIUNTA PISANO, crucifix by, _note [69]_ 152; portraits by, of St.
+  Francis, 211, 284; 337; 338.
+
+  GOETHE, Wolfgang von, description of the Temple of Minerva, 302,
+  303.
+
+  GOZZOLI, Benozzo, 245.
+
+  GREGORY IX., Pope, friendship with St. Francis, 69; dream of, 121,
+  254; canonises St. Francis, 121, 253; founds San Francesco, 123,
+  _note [69]_ 152; portrait of, 159; 219; wishes to give St. Clare
+  the Benedictine rule, 270.
+
+  GUALDO, 12; 118; 329.
+
+  ---- Matteo da, _see_ Matteo.
+
+  GUALTIERI, Duke of Athens, portrait of, 208.
+
+  GUELFUCCI, Bianca, 261; aids St. Clare in her flight, 262; enters
+  convent of San Damiano, 264.
+
+  GUBBIO, wolf of, 65, 221; 291; 329.
+
+  GUIDANTONIO da MONTEFELTRO, owns Assisi, 25, 317.
+
+  GUIDO da MONTEFELTRO, a monk in San Francesco, 223; treacherous
+  counsel of, to Boniface VIII, 224.
+
+  GRECCIO, feast of, 242.
+
+
+    H
+
+  HONORIUS III., Pope, St. Francis preaches before, 70, 249; rule of
+  St. Francis sanctioned by, 114, 210; grants St. Francis the
+  indulgence of the Portiuncula, 342.
+
+
+    I
+
+  IBALD, Rev. Father Bernardine, _note [56]_ 103.
+
+  ILLUMINATUS, Brother, 141; 240.
+
+  INGEGNO, L', 306; fresco by, 307.
+
+  INNOCENT III., Pope, 13; power of, 14; court of, 15; 45; meeting
+  of, with St. Francis, 52, 53; dream of, 53, 236; confirms rule of
+  St. Francis, 54, 70; 237; 342.
+
+  ---- IV., Pope, sanctions rule of St. Clare, 271; at funeral of
+  St. Clare, 279, 280.
+
+
+    J
+
+  JACOPO TEDESCO, architect of San Francesco, 124; 125; 129; 156;
+  216.
+
+  JASIUS, 2; 3.
+
+  JUNIPER, Brother, 111; 112; 271.
+
+
+    L
+
+  LEO X., Pope, mitigates franciscan rule, 224.
+
+  ---- XIII., Pope, 287.
+
+  ---- Brother, 51; 72; quoted, 103, 104, 114, 131, 310; quarrel
+  with Elias, 132; receives autograph benediction from St. Francis,
+  210.
+
+  LIBERIUS, Pope, 98.
+
+  LORENZETTI, Pietro, frescoes by, in San Francesco, 207, 208.
+
+  LOUIS, St., of France, _note [30]_ 51; 210.
+
+
+    M
+
+  MARGARITONE, 158; 284.
+
+  MARTIN, St., chapel and legend of, in San Francesco, 198, _et
+  seq._
+
+  MARTINI, Simone, 198; friendship with Petrarch, 199;
+  characteristics of, 199; legend by, of St. Martin, 200, _et seq._;
+  other frescoes by, 212, 215.
+
+  MARY MAGDALEN, St., legend and chapel of, 190, 191.
+
+  MARZARIO, Professor, _note [62]_ 125.
+
+  MASSEO, Brother, 59; 72; letter of, 74; 111.
+
+  MATARAZZO, _note [12]_ 31; quoted, 33, 35; _note [101]_ 259.
+
+  MATTEO da GUALDO, frescoes by, in Assisi, 304, 306, 311, 313, 317,
+  318.
+
+  METASTASIO, house of, at Assisi, 322.
+
+  MICHELOTTI, Biordo, 25; 329.
+
+  MILTON, John, 14; 241.
+
+  MINERVA, The Temple of, its legend, 3; 301; description of, by
+  Goethe, 302, 303.
+
+  MONTEFELTRO, _see_ Guido.
+
+  MONTEFALCO, 221; 245.
+
+  MONTE FRUMENTARIO, 321.
+
+
+    N
+
+  NARNI, 13; 221.
+
+  NEPIS, the family of, rivalry with the Fiumi, 31, 32, 330, 331.
+
+  NICCOLO da FOLIGNO, triptych by, in San Rufino, 296, 297; 341.
+
+  ---- da GUBBIO, carves doors for San Francesco, 220.
+
+  NICHOLAS, St., chapel and legend of, 185, _et seq._
+
+  NOCERA, 12; 118; 329.
+
+
+    O
+
+  ORSINI, Giovanni Gaetano, portrait of, 185; tomb of, 189.
+
+  ---- Napoleone, 185.
+
+  ---- The family of, _note [87]_ 208.
+
+  ORTOLANA, Madonna, 259; 264.
+
+  OTTO IV., Emperor, at Rivo-Torto, 96.
+
+  OXFORD, 110.
+
+
+    P
+
+  PACIFICO, Brother, vision of, 239.
+
+  PALAZZO PUBBLICO, 32; 305; frescoes in, 306.
+
+  ---- SBARAGLINI, 308.
+
+  ---- SCIFI, 258; 260; 262; 281.
+
+  PARENTI, Giovanni, 132; 133; 139; 140.
+
+  PAUL III, Pope, 36; 331; 332.
+
+  PERUGIA, 4; 9; wars with Assisi, 5, 19, 20, 21, 43; governs
+  Assisi, 22, 23; 29; 36; tries to steal body of St. Francis, 21;
+  _note [81]_ 196; St. Francis mocked in, 57; 221; 342.
+
+  PERUGINO, Pietro, fresco by, 337.
+
+  PIAZZA, di Sta. Maria Maggiore, encounter of St. Francis with his
+  father in, 235, 309; 310.
+
+  ---- di San Francesco, 220.
+
+  ---- della Minerva, 13; 31; 302; 330; 348.
+
+  ---- Nuova, 300; 349.
+
+  ---- di San Rufino, 289.
+
+  PICA, Madonna, 41; 102; 119; 307.
+
+  PICCININO, Niccolo, besieges Assisi, 25, 26; 27; 30; 126.
+
+  ---- Jacopo, 329.
+
+  PIETRO _Cataneo_, Brother, 48; 138; 342.
+
+  PINTELLI, Baccio, 220.
+
+  PINTURICCHIO, 337.
+
+  PIUS II, Pope, 329.
+
+  ---- V, Pope, 335.
+
+  PORTIUNCULA, The, early connection with St. Francis, 47, 102;
+  repaired by St. Benedict, 99; given to St. Francis, 103; cradle of
+  franciscan order, 104; St. Clare comes to, 104, 273; St. Francis
+  dies at, 114, 115, 337; 338; indulgence of, 344; chapter of the
+  lattices at, 345; 353; 355; 359.
+
+  PUZZARELLI, Simone, 123.
+
+  PONTANO, Teobaldo, 191.
+
+  PROPERTIUS, born at Assisi, 6; describes Assisi, 7, 8.
+
+
+    R
+
+  RENAN, E., quoted, 149.
+
+  RENI, Guido, 339.
+
+  RIVO-TORTO, 93; leper hospitals at, 95; description of, 96 vision
+  of friars at, 238, 299.
+
+  ROBBIA, Andrea della, his work in the Angeli, 336-338.
+
+  ROCCA D'ASSISI, _see_ Castle.
+
+  RUFINO D'ARCE, San, 94; St. Francis ministers to lepers at, 95.
+
+  RUFINO, Brother, 68; _note [102]_ 260.
+
+  ---- St., legend of, 291, 292, 293, 297; 299.
+
+  RUMOHR, von, B., 251.
+
+  RUSKIN, John, quoted, 155, 170, 232; 236.
+
+
+    S
+
+  SABATIER, Paul, quoted, _note [26]_ 44, 63, 238, 258, 266, 271,
+  274; _note [67]_ 138.
+
+  SANSONE, Francesco, 219; 256.
+
+  SCIFI, Chiara, _see_ St. Clare.
+
+  ---- Count Favorino, 258; 259; 261; 263; 264.
+
+  SCOTT, Leader, _note [62]_ 125.
+
+  SEVERINO, _see_ Domenico.
+
+  SFORZA, Alessandro, 27; 28.
+
+  ---- Francesco, Duke of Milan, 25; 26; 328.
+
+  SIXTUS IV, Pope, 219; statue of, 221; 257.
+
+  SPAGNA, Lo, 207; 338; 341.
+
+  SPOLETO, 44; 45.
+
+  STANISLAUS, St., 207.
+
+  SUBASIO, Mount, 84; 258; ways to 363.
+
+  SYLVESTER, Brother, 239.
+
+
+    T
+
+  TAINE, H., quoted, 1, 198.
+
+  TESCIO River, 85; _note [52]_ 86; 124; 214.
+
+  THODE, Henry, _note [62]_ 125; 158; 164; 165; _note [73]_ 171;
+  206.
+
+  THREE COMPANIONS, legend of, 96; 229; 242.
+
+  TIBERIO D'ASSISI, frescoes at Assisi, 279, 306, 341.
+
+  TOTILA, 9; 325.
+
+  TREVELYAN, R. C., 7; 8.
+
+
+    U
+
+  UGOLINO, Bishop of Ostia, _see_ Gregory IX.
+
+
+    V
+
+  VASARI, Giorgio, quoted, 124, 153, 164, 170, 195, 244; 155, 156, 306.
+
+  VERNIA, LA, 71; _note [45]_ 75; St. Francis receives the Stigmata
+  at, 72; 210; 211; 243; 250.
+
+  VESPIGNANO, Giotto, born at, 168; 169.
+
+  VITRY, Jacques de, 15; quoted, 17, 240.
+
+
+
+
+TURNBULL AND SPEARS, PRINTERS. EDINBURGH
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Story of Assisi, by Lina Duff Gordon
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