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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/3798-8.txt b/3798-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1fc8e3c --- /dev/null +++ b/3798-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5780 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Reminiscences of Captain Gronow, by Rees Howell Gronow + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Reminiscences of Captain Gronow + +Author: Rees Howell Gronow + +Posting Date: May 19, 2009 [EBook #3798] +Release Date: February, 2003 +First Posted: September 13, 2001 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF CAPTAIN GRONOW *** + + + + +Produced by Tobias D. Robison and Pam Wisniewski. HTML +version by Al Haines. + + + + + + + + + + +Reminiscences of Captain Gronow + + +by + +Captain Rees Howell Gronow + + + + +EDITOR'S NOTE + + +The spelling in this book is rather creative (including the occasional +spelling of "ankle" as "ancle"), and the punctuation is remarkably +varied. I have tried to preserve both, except that the spaces between a +word and the following colon or semicolon have been removed. There are +also many French words and phrases, whose meaning will usually be +obvious as soon as you realise they are French. Of course I apologize +for any genuine errors in spelling and punctuation that have crept into +this file. + +Captain Gronow is an entertaining raconteur who brings his own +experiences in the Regency period and the wars with France delightfully +to life. Gronow published several sets of memoirs. This file covers +the first half of what he published. Search the web for "Captain +Gronow" to learn more about this interesting gentleman. + +The text is arranged as a series of topics, each with a title in +capital letters. Sometimes there is continuity in this arrangement, +sometimes there is not. There is no other structure to the text. + +I have used the character for "pounds" (money) in this text: '£'. If +the character in single quotes does not look like a pound sign to you, +well, at least you know what is intended. The book text uses a lower +case 'l' for this purpose, but in computer fonts the 'l', looking just +like a '1' when following a string of digits, is confusing. + +Many thanks to Pam Wisniewski for proofreading this text. + + +--Tobias D. Robison, September, 2001 tdr21@columbia.edu + + + + + + + + +Reminiscences of Captain Gronow + + + + +Formerly of the Grenadier Guards, and M.P. for Stafford: + +being + +Anecdotes of the camp, the court, and the clubs, at the close of the +last war with France. + +Related by himself. + + + + "O friends regretted, scenes for ever dear! + Remembrance hails you with her warmest tear! + Drooping she bends o'er pensive fancy's urn, + To trace the hours which never can return." + + + +London: + +Smith, Elder and Co., 65, Cornhill. + +M.DCCC.LXII. + + + +CONTENTS + + + A FEW WORDS TO THE READER + MY ENTRANCE INTO THE ARMY + DEPARTURE FOR AND ARRIVAL IN SPAIN + THE UNIFORM AND BEARING OF THE FRENCH SOLDIER + MAJOR-GENERAL STEWART AND LORD WELLINGTON + ST. JEAN DE LUZ + FOOLHARDINESS + DISCIPLINE + SIR JOHN WATERS + THE BATTLE OF THE NIVELLE + THE PASSAGE OF THE ADOUR + ARRIVAL OF THE GUARDS AT BORDEAUX + MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE + MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE AND COL. WARDLE + SOCIETY IN LONDON IN 1814 + THE ITALIAN OPERA.--CATALANI + DINING AND COOKERY IN ENGLAND FIFTY YEARS AGO + THE PRINCE REGENT + PRINCESS CHARLOTTE OF WALES AT A FETE IN THE YEAR 1813, AT CARLTON HOUSE + BEAU BRUMMELL + ROMEO COATES + HYDE PARK AFTER THE PENINSULAR WAR + LONDON HOTELS IN 1814 + THE CLUBS OF LONDON IN 1814 + REMARKABLE CHARACTERS OF LONDON ABOUT THE YEARS 1814, 1815, 1816 + THE GUARDS MARCHING FROM ENGHIEN ON THE 15TH OF JUNE + QUATRE BRAS + GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE FIELD OF WATERLOO + THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON IN OUR SQUARE + THE FRENCH CAVALRY CHARGING THE BRUNSWICKERS + THE LAST CHARGE AT WATERLOO + HUGUEMONT + BYNG WITH HIS BRIGADE AT WATERLOO + THE LATE DUKE OF RICHMOND + THE UNFORTUNATE CHARGE OF THE HOUSEHOLD BRIGADE + THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON'S OPINION OF THE FRENCH CAVALRY + MARSHAL EXCELMANN'S OPINION OF THE BRITISH CAVALRY + APPEARANCE OF PARIS WHEN THE ALLIES ENTERED + MARSHAL NEY AND WELLINGTON + THE PALAIS ROYAL AFTER THE RESTORATION + THE ENGLISH IN PARIS AFTER THE RESTORATION OF THE BOURBONS + LES ANGLAISES POUR RIRE + COACHING AND RACING IN 1815 + PARISIAN CAFES IN 1815 + REVIEW OF THE ALLIED ARMIES BY THE ALLIED SOVEREIGNS IN PARIS + CONDUCT OF THE RUSSIAN AND PRUSSIAN SOLDIERS DURING THE OCCUPATION OF + PARIS BY THE ALLIES + THE BRITISH EMBASSY IN PARIS + ESCAPE OF LAVALETTE FROM PRISON + DUELLING IN FRANCE IN 1815 + PISTOL SHOOTING + THE FAUBOURG ST. GERMAIN + THE SALON DES ETRANGERS IN PARIS + THE DUCHESS DE BERRI AT MASS AT THE CHAPELLE ROYALE + LORD WESTMORELAND + ALDERMAN WOOD + THE OPERA + FANNY ELSSLER + CHARLES X. AND LOUIS PHILIPPE + LORD THANET + LORD GRANVILLE, THE BRITISH AMBASSADOR + MARSHAL BLUCHER + JEW MONEY-LENDERS + LORD ALVANLEY + GENERAL PALMER + "MONK" LEWIS + SIR THOMAS TURTON + GEORGE SMYTHE, THE LATE LORD STRANGFORD + THE HONOURABLE GEORGE TALBOT + A DINNER AT SIR JAMES BLAND BURGES'S, IN LOWER BROOK STREET; AUTUMN, 1815 + LORD BYRON + SHELLEY + ROBERT SOUTHEY, THE POET + CAPTAIN HESSE, FORMERLY OF THE 18TH HUSSARS + VISITING IN THE COUNTRY + COLONEL KELLY AND HIS BLACKING + LORD ALLEN AND COUNT D'ORSAY + Mr. PHELPS + THE LATE LORD BLOOMFIELD + THE RIGHT HON. GEORGE CANNING + MRS. BOEHM, OF ST. JAMES'S SQUARE + DR. GOODALL, OF ETON + LORD MELBOURNE, THE DUKE OF LEINSTER, AND LORD NORMANBY + THE DUKE OF GLOUCESTER + LADY CORK + THE DUCHESS OF GORDON + THE LATE MRS. BRADSHAW (MARIA TREE) + LADIES' JEWELLERY AND LOVERS + THE LATE LORD HENRY SEYMOUR + FRANCE AND THE FRENCH + + + + + +A FEW WORDS TO THE READER + + +It has been my lot to have lived through the greater part of one of the +most eventful centuries of England's history, and I have been thrown +amongst most of the remarkable men of my day; whether soldiers, +statesman, men of letters, theatrical people, or those whose birth and +fortune--rather, perhaps, than their virtues or talents--have caused +them to be conspicuous in society at home or abroad. Nature having +endowed me with a strong memory, I can recall with all their original +vividness scenes that took place fifty years ago, and distinctly +recollect the face, walk, and voice, as well as the dress and general +manner, of everyone whom I have known. I have frequently repeated to my +friends what I have seen and heard since the year that I joined the +Guards (1813), and have been urged to commit to paper my anecdotes and +reminiscences. + +Unfortunately, I have not the power of efficiently describing in words +the pictures that are hung up in the long gallery of my memory: a man +may see very distinctly the landscape before him, yet he may be unable +to delineate that which he gazes upon and is intimately acquainted +with. A viva voce narrative of an incident told to a friend in +conversation may pass muster, and one is able to fill up any gaps in an +imperfect description; but it always occurred to me that I had no right +to task a reader's time and patience unless I could put before him what +I had to say in a lucid and complete form; I therefore refrained from +committing myself to print. I have at length, however, yielded to the +suggestion of friends, and written down some anecdotes in the best way +I could. Soldiers are not generally famous for literary excellence, and +when I was young, the military man was, perhaps, much less a scholar +than he is at the present day; but I hope that the interest of the +matter will make up for any deficiency of style. + +In going over more than half a century, and treating of men, women and +events, it was necessary to leave out many anecdotes which would, +perhaps, have been more interesting than most of those that I have +given; for I would not willingly offend, or hurt the feelings of any +one, and I wish to respect the memory of the dead, as well as to take +into consideration the sensitiveness of the living. My Reminiscences, +it will be seen, are nothing more than miniature illustrations of +contemporary history; and though the reader may find here and there +scraps of biographical matter, I confine myself to facts and +characteristics which were familiar to the circle in which I moved, and +perhaps are as much public property as the painted portraits of +celebrities. + +Should this work meet with the approbation of the public, I hope at a +future time to publish an additional one, as my memory still serves me +with sufficient materials for another volume of a similar kind. + +R. H. Gronow. + + + + +MY ENTRANCE INTO THE ARMY + + +After leaving Eton, I received an Ensign's commission in the First +Guards during the month of December, 1812. Though many years have +elapsed, I still remember my boyish delight at being named to so +distinguished a regiment, and at the prospect of soon taking a part in +the glorious deeds of our army in Spain. I joined in February 1813, +and cannot but recollect with astonishment how limited and imperfect +was the instruction which an officer received at that time: he +absolutely entered the army without any military education whatever. We +were so defective in our drill, even after we had passed out of the +hands of the sergeant, that the excellence of our non-commissioned +officers alone prevented us from meeting with the most fatal disasters +in the face of the enemy. Physical force and our bull-dog energy +carried many a hard-fought field. Luckily, nous avons change tout +cela, and our officers may now vie with those of any other army in an +age when the great improvements in musketry, in artillery practice, and +in the greater rapidity of manoeuvring, have entirely changed the art +of war, and rendered the individual education of those in every grade +of command an absolute necessity. + +After passing through the hands of the drill sergeant with my friends +Dashwood, Batty, Browne, Lascelles, Hume, and Masters, and mounting +guard at St. James's for a few months, we were hurried off, one fine +morning, in charge of a splendid detachment of five hundred men to join +Lord Wellington in Spain. Macadam had just begun to do for England +what Marshal Wade did in Scotland seventy years before; and we were +able to march twenty miles a day with ease until we reached Portsmouth. +There we found transports ready to convey a large reinforcement, of +which we formed part, to Lord Wellington, who was now making his +arrangements, after taking St. Sebastian, for a yet more important +event in the history of the Peninsular War--the invasion of France. + + + + +DEPARTURE FOR AND ARRIVAL IN SPAIN + + +We sailed under convoy of the Madagascar frigate, commanded by Captain +Curtis; and, after a favourable voyage, we arrived at Passages. Our +stay there was short, for we were ordered to join the army without loss +of time. In three hours we got fairly into camp, where we were +received with loud cheers by our brothers in arms. + +The whole British army was here under canvas; our allies, the Spaniards +and Portuguese, being in the rear. About the middle of October, to our +great delight, the army received orders to cross the Bidassoa. At three +o'clock on the morning of the 15th our regiment advanced through a +difficult country, and, after a harassing march, reached the top of a +hill as the gray light of morning began to dawn. We marched in +profound silence, but with a pleasurable feeling of excitement amongst +all ranks at the thought of meeting the enemy, and perhaps with not an +equally agreeable idea that we might be in the next world before the +day was over. + +As we ascended the rugged side of the hill, I saw, for the first time, +the immortal Wellington. He was accompanied by the Spanish General, +Alava, Lord Fitzroy Somerset, and Major, afterwards Colonel Freemantle. +He was very stern and grave-looking; he was in deep meditation, so long +as I kept him in view, and spoke to no one. His features were bold, +and I saw much decision of character in his expression. He rode a +knowing-looking, thorough-bred horse, and wore a gray overcoat, Hessian +boots, and a large cocked hat. We commenced the passage of the Bidassoa +about five in the morning, and in a short time infantry, cavalry, and +artillery found themselves upon French ground. The stream at the point +we forded was nearly four feet deep, and had Soult been aware of what +we were about, we should have found the passage of the river a very +arduous undertaking. + +Three miles above, we discovered the French army, and ere long found +ourselves under fire. The sensation of being made a target to a large +body of men is at first not particularly pleasant, but "in a trice, the +ear becomes more Irish and less nice." The first man I ever saw killed +was a Spanish soldier, who was cut in two by a cannon ball. The French +army, not long after we began to return their fire, was in full +retreat; and after a little sharp, but desultory fighting, in which our +Division met with some loss, we took possession of the camp and strong +position of Soult's army. We found the soldiers' huts very +comfortable; they were built of branches of trees and furze, and formed +squares and streets, which had names placarded up, such as Rue de +Paris, Rue de Versailles, &c. We were not sorry to find ourselves in +such commodious quarters, as well as being well housed. The scenery +surrounding the camp was picturesque and grand. From our elevated +position, immediately in front, we commanded a wide and extensive +plain, intersected by two important rivers, the Nive and the Nivelle. +On the right, the lofty Pyrenees, with their grand and varied outline, +stood forth conspicuously in a blue, cloudless sky; on our left was the +Bay of Biscay, with our cruisers perpetually on the move. + +We witnessed from the camp, one night about twelve o'clock, a fight at +sea, between an English brig and a French corvette, which was leaving +the Adour with provisions and ammunition. She was chased by the brig, +and brought to action. The night was sufficiently clear to enable us +to discover distinctly the position of the vessels and the measured +flash of their guns. They were at close quarters, and in less than +half an hour we discovered the crew of the corvette taking to their +boats. Shortly afterwards the vessel blew up with a loud explosion. We +came to the conclusion that sea-fighting was more agreeable than +land-fighting, as the crews of the vessels engaged without previous +heavy marching, and with loose light clothing; there was no manoeuvring +or standing for hours on the defensive; the wounded were immediately +taken below and attended to, and the whole affair was over in a +pleasingly brief period. + + + + +THE UNIFORM AND BEARING OF THE FRENCH SOLDIER + + +The French infantry soldier averaged about five feet five or six in +height; in build they were much about what they are now, perhaps a +little broader over the shoulder. They were smart, active, handy +fellows, and much more able to look after their personal comforts than +British soldiers, as their camps indicated. The uniform of those days +consisted in a schako, which spread out at the top; a short-waisted, +swallow-tailed coat; and large, baggy trousers and gaiters. The +clothing of the French soldier was roomy, and enabled him to march and +move about at ease: no pipeclay accessories occupied their attention; +in a word, their uniforms and accoutrements were infinitely superior to +our own, taking into consideration the practical necessities of +warfare. Their muskets were inferior to ours, and their firing less +deadly. The French cavalry we thought badly horsed; but their +uniforms, though showy, were, like those of the infantry, comfortably +large and roomy. + +I have frequently remarked that firearms are of little use to the +mounted soldier, and often an incumbrance to man and horse. Cavalry +want only one arm--the sabre. Let the men be well mounted and at home +in the saddle. It requires great knowledge in a Commander-in-chief to +know when and how to use his cavalry. It has been my misfortune to +witness oft-repeated blunders in the employment of the best-mounted +regiments in the world. I consider the French generals had more +knowledge of the use of cavalry than our own, when a great battle was +to be fought. + + + + +MAJOR-GENERAL STEWART AND LORD WELLINGTON + + +If the present generation of Englishmen would take the trouble of +looking at the newspaper which fifty years ago informed the British +public of passing events both at home and abroad, they would, +doubtless, marvel at the very limited and imperfect amount of +intelligence which the best journals were enabled to place before their +readers. The progress of the Peninsular campaign was very imperfectly +chronicled; it will, therefore, be easily imagined what interest was +attached to certain letters that appeared in the Morning Chronicle +which criticised with much severity, and frequently with considerable +injustice, the military movements of Lord Wellington's Spanish campaign. + +The attention of the Commander-in-Chief being drawn to these periodical +and personal comments on his conduct of the war, his lordship at once +perceived from the information which they contained that they must have +been written by an officer holding a high command under him. Determined +to ascertain the author--who, in addressing a public journal, was +violating the Articles of War, and, it might be, assisting the +enemy--means were employed in London to identify the writer. The +result was, that Lord Wellington discovered the author of the letters +to be no other than Sir Charles Stewart, the late Lord Londonderry. As +soon as Lord Wellington had made himself master of this fact, he +summoned Sir Charles Stewart to head-quarters at Torres Vedras; and on +his appearance, he, without the least preface, addressed him thus:-- + +"Charles Stewart, I have ascertained with deep regret that you are the +author of the letters which appeared in the Morning Chronicle abusing +me and finding fault with my military plans." + +Lord Wellington paused here for a moment, and then continued: + +"Now, Stewart, you know your brother Castlereagh is my best friend, to +whom I owe everything; nevertheless, if you continue to write letters +to the Chronicle, or any other newspaper, by God, I will send you home." + +Sir Charles Stewart was so affected at this rebuke that he shed tears, +and expressed himself deeply penitent for the breach of confidence and +want of respect for the Articles of War. They immediately shook hands +and parted friends. It happened, however, that Sir Charles Stewart did +not remain long in the cavalry, of which he was Adjutant-General. +Within a few weeks he was named one of the Commissioners deputed to +proceed to the Allied Armies, where the Sovereigns were then completing +their plans to crush Napoleon. + + + + +ST. JEAN DE LUZ + + +During the winter of 1813, the Guards were stationed with head-quarters +at St Jean de Luz, and most comfortable we managed to make them. For +some short time previously we had been on scanty commons, and had +undergone considerable privation: indeed we might have said, like the +Colonel to Johnny Newcome on his arrival to join his regiment, "We sons +of Mars have long been fed on brandy and cigars." I had no cause to +complain personally; for my servant, a Sicilian, was one of the most +accomplished foragers (ill-natured persons might give him a worse name) +in the whole army; and when others were nearly starving, he always +managed to provide meat or poultry. He rode on his mule sometimes from +twenty to thirty miles, often running the greatest dangers, to procure +me a good meal; of which he took care to have, very justly, a large +share for himself. + +At St Jean de Luz, we were more attentive to our devotions than we had +been for some time. Divine service was performed punctually every +Sunday on the sand-hills near the town; Lord Wellington and his +numerous Staff placed themselves in the midst of our square, and his +lordship's chaplain read the service, to which Lord Wellington always +appeared to listen with great attention. + +The mayor of the town, thinking to please "the great English lord," +gave a ball at the Hotel de Ville: our Commander-in-Chief did not go +but was represented by Waters. I was there, and expected to see some +of the young ladies of the country so famed for their beauty; they +were, however, far too patriotic to appear, and the only lady present +was Lady Waldegrave, then living with her husband at head-quarters. +What was one partner among so many? The ball was a dead failure, in +spite of the efforts of the mayor, who danced, to our intense +amusement, an English hornpipe, which he had learnt in not a very +agreeable manner, viz. when a prisoner of war in the hulks at Plymouth. + +There were two packs of hounds at St Jean de Luz; one kept by Lord +Wellington, the other by Marsden, of the Commissariat: our officers +went uncommonly straight. Perhaps our best man across country (though +sometimes somewhat against his will) was the late Colonel Lascelles of +my regiment, then, like myself, a mere lad. He rode a horse seventeen +hands high, called Bucephalus, which invariably ran away with him, and +more than once had nearly capsized Lord Wellington. The good living at +St Jean de Luz agreed so well with my friend that he waxed fat, and +from that period to his death was known to the world by the jovial +appellation of Bacchus Lascelles. + +Shortly before we left St Jean de Luz, we took our turn of outposts in +the neighbourhood of Bidart, a large village, about ten miles from +Bayonne. Early one frosty morning in December, an order came, that if +we saw the enemy advancing, we were not to fire or give the alarm. +About five, we perceived two battalions wearing grenadier caps coming +on. They turned out to belong to a Nassau regiment which had occupied +the advanced post of the enemy, and, hearing that Napoleon had met with +great reverses in Germany, signified to us their intention to desert. +They were a fine-looking body of men, and appeared, I thought, rather +ashamed of the step they had taken. On the same day, we were relieved, +and on our way back met Lord Wellington with his hounds. He was +dressed in a light blue frock coat (the colour of the Hatfield hunt) +which had been sent out to him as a present from Lady Salisbury, then +one of the leaders of the fashionable world, and an enthusiastic +admirer of his lordship. + +Here, I remember seeing for the first time a very remarkable character, +the Hon. W. Dawson, of my regiment. He was surrounded by muleteers, +with whom he was bargaining to provide carriage for innumerable hampers +of wine, liqueurs, hams, potted meat, and other good things, which he +had brought from England. He was a particularly gentlemanly and +amiable man, much beloved by the regiment: no one was so hospitable or +lived so magnificently. His cooks were the best in the army, and he, +besides, had a host of servants of all nations--Spaniards, French, +Portuguese, Italians--who were employed in scouring the country for +provisions. Lord Wellington once honoured him with his company; and on +entering the ensign's tent, found him alone at table, with a dinner fit +for a king, his plate and linen in good keeping, and his wines perfect. +Lord Wellington was accompanied on this occasion by Sir Edward Pakenham +and Colonel du Burgh, afterwards Lord Downes. It fell to my lot to +partake of his princely hospitality and dine with him at his quarters, +a farmhouse in a village on the Bidassoa, and I never saw a better +dinner put upon table. The career of this amiable Amphitryon, to our +great regret, was cut short, after exercising for about a year a +splendid but not very wise hospitality. He had only a younger +brother's fortune; his debts became very considerable, and he was +obliged to quit the Guards. He and his friends had literally eaten up +his little fortune. + + + + +FOOLHARDINESS + + +I may here recount an instance of the folly and foolhardiness of youth, +and the recklessness to which a long course of exposure to danger +produces. When Bayonne was invested, I was one night on duty on the +outer picket. The ground inside the breastwork which had been thrown up +for our protection by Burgoyne was in a most disagreeable state for any +one who wished to repose after the fatigues of the day, being knee-deep +in mud of a remarkably plastic nature. I was dead tired, and +determined to get a little rest in some more agreeable spot; so calling +my sergeant, I told him to give me his knapsack for a pillow; I would +make a comfortable night of it on the top of the breastwork, as it was +an invitingly dry place. "For heaven's sake take care, sir," said he; +"you'll have fifty bullets in you: you will be killed to a certainty." +"Pooh, nonsense," said I, and climbing up, I wrapt myself in my cloak, +laid my head on the knapsack, and soon fell into a sound sleep. + +By the mercy of Providence I remained in a whole skin, either from the +French immediately underneath not perceiving me, or not thinking me +worth a shot; but when General Stopford came up with Lord James Hay +(who not long since reminded me of this youthful escapade) I received a +severe wigging, and was told to consider myself lucky that I was not +put under arrest for exposing my life in so foolish a manner. + +Among the many officers of the Guards who were taken prisoners in the +unfortunate sortie from Bayonne, was the Hon. H. Townshend, commonly +called Bull Townshend. He was celebrated as a bon vivant, and in +consequence of his too great indulgence in the pleasures of the table, +had become very unwieldy and could not move quick enough to please his +nimble captors, so he received many prods in the back from a sharp +bayonet. After repeated threats, however, he was dismissed with what +our American friends would be pleased to designate "a severe booting." +The late Sir Willoughby Cotton was also a prisoner. It really seemed +as if the enemy had made choice of our fattest officers. Sir +Willoughby escaped by giving up his watch and all the money which he +had in his pockets; but this consisting of a Spanish dollar only, the +smallness of the sum subjected him to the same ignominious treatment as +had been experienced by Townshend. + +Among the numerous bad characters in our ranks, several were coiners, +or utterers of bad money. In the second brigade of Guards, just before +we arrived at St. Jean de Luz, a soldier was convicted of this offence, +and was sentenced to receive 800 lashes. This man made sham Spanish +dollars out of the pewter spoons of the regiment. As he had before +been convicted and flogged, he received this terrible sentence, and +died under the lash. Would it not have been better to have condemned +him to be shot?-- It would have been more humane, certainly more +military, and far less brutal. + + + + +DISCIPLINE + + +When the headquarters of the army were at St Jean de Luz, Soult made a +movement in front of our right centre, which the English general took +for a reconnaissance. As the French general perceived that we had +ordered preparations to receive him, he sent a flag of truce to demand +a cessation of hostilities, saying that he wanted to shoot an officer +and several men for acts of robbery committed by them, with every sort +of atrocity, on the farmers and peasantry of the country. The +execution took place in view of both armies, and a terrible lesson it +was. I cannot specify the date of this event, but think it must have +been the latter end of November, 1813. About the same time General +Harispe, who commanded a corps of Basques, issued a proclamation +forbidding the peasantry to supply the English with provisions or +forage, on pain of death; it stated that we were savages, and, as a +proof of this, our horses were born with short tails. I saw this +absurd proclamation, which was published in French and in the Basque +languages, and distributed all over the country. Before we left the +neighbourhood of Bayonne for Bordeaux, a soldier was hanged for +robbery, on the sands of the Adour. This sort of punishment astonished +the French almost as much as it did the soldier. On a march we were +very severe, and if any of our men were caught committing an act of +violence or brigandage, the offender was tried by a drum-head +court-martial, and hanged in a very short time. + +I knew an officer of the 18th Hussars, W. R., young, rich, and a +fine-looking fellow, who joined the army not far from St Sebastian. +His stud of horses was remarkable for their blood, his grooms were +English, and three in number. He brought with him a light cart to +carry forage, and a fourgon for his own baggage. All went on well, +till he came to go on outpost duty; but not finding there any of the +comforts to which he had been accustomed, he quietly mounted his +charger, told his astonished sergeant that campaigning was not intended +for a gentleman, and instantly galloped off to his quarters, ordering +his servants to pack up everything immediately, as he had hired a +transport to take him off to England. He left us before any one had +time to stop him; and though despatches were sent off to the +Commander-in-Chief, requesting that a court-martial might sit to try +the young deserter, he arrived home long enough before the despatches +to enable him to sell out of his regiment. He deserved to have been +shot. + +Sir John Hope, who commanded our corps d'armee at Bayonne, had his +quarters at a village on the Adour, called Beaucauld. He was good +enough to name me to the command of the village; which honour I did not +hold for many days, for the famous sortie from Bayonne took place soon +after, and the general was made prisoner. + + + + +SIR JOHN WATERS + + +Amongst the distinguished men in the Peninsular war whom my memory +brings occasionally before me, is the well-known and highly popular +Quartermaster General Sir John Waters, who was born at Margam, a Welsh +village in Glamorganshire. He was one of those extraordinary persons +that seem created by kind nature for particular purposes; and, without +using the word in an offensive sense, he was the most admirable spy +that was ever attached to an army. One would almost have thought that +the Spanish war was entered upon and carried on in order to display his +remarkable qualities. He could assume the character of Spaniards of +every degree and station, so as to deceive the most acute of those whom +he delighted to imitate. In the posada of the village he was hailed by +the contrabandist or the muleteer as one of their own race; in the gay +assemblies he was an accomplished hidalgo; at the bull-fight the +toreador received his congratulations as from one who had encountered +the toro in the arena; in the church he would converse with the friar +upon the number of Ave Marias and Pater-nosters which could lay a +ghost, or tell him the history of everyone who had perished by the +flame of the Inquisition, relating his crime, whether carnal or +anti-Catholic; and he could join in the seguadilla or in the guaracha. +But what rendered him more efficient than all was his wonderful power +of observation and accurate description, which made the information he +gave so reliable and valuable to the Duke of Wellington. Nothing +escaped him. When amidst a group of persons, he would minutely watch +the movement, attitude, and expression of every individual that +composed it; in the scenery by which he was surrounded he would +carefully mark every object:--not a tree, not a bush, not a large +stone, escaped his observation; and it was said that in a cottage he +noted every piece of crockery on the shelf, every domestic utensil, and +even the number of knives and forks that were got ready for use at +dinner. His acquaintance with the Spanish language was marvellous; from +the finest works of Calderon to the ballads in the patois of every +province, he could quote, to the infinite delight of those with whom he +associated. He could assume any character that he pleased: he could be +the Castilian, haughty and reserved; the Asturian, stupid and plodding; +the Catalonian, intriguing and cunning; the Andalusian, laughing and +merry;--in short, he was all things to all men. Nor was he incapable +of passing off, when occasion required, for a Frenchman; but as he +spoke the language with a strong German accent, he called himself an +Alsatian. He maintained that character with the utmost nicety; and as +there is a strong feeling of fellowship, almost equal to that which +exists in Scotland, amongst all those who are born in the departments +of France bordering on the Rhine, and who maintain their Teutonic +originality, he always found friends and supporters in every regiment +in the French service. + +He was on one occasion entrusted with a very difficult mission by the +Duke of Wellington, which he undertook effectually to perform, and to +return on a particular day with the information that was required. + +Great was the disappointment when it was ascertained beyond a doubt +that just after leaving the camp he had been taken prisoner, before he +had time to exchange his uniform. Such, however, was the case: a troop +of dragoons had intercepted him, and carried him off; and the +commanding officer desired two soldiers to keep a strict watch over him +and carry him to head-quarters. He was of course disarmed, and being +placed on a horse, was, after a short time, galloped off by his guards. +He slept one night under durance vile at a small inn, where he was +allowed to remain in the kitchen; conversation flowed on very glibly, +and as he appeared a stupid Englishman, who could not understand a word +of French or Spanish, he was allowed to listen, and thus obtained +precisely the intelligence that he was in search of. The following +morning, being again mounted, he overheard a conversation between his +guards, who deliberately agreed to rob him, and to shoot him at a mill +where they were to stop, and to report to their officer that they had +been compelled to fire at him in consequence of his attempt to escape. + +Shortly before they arrived at the mill, for fear that they might meet +with some one who would insist on having a portion of the spoil, the +dragoons took from the prisoner his watch and his purse, which he +surrendered with a good grace. On their arrival at the mill, they +dismounted, and in order to give some appearance of truth to their +story, they went into the house; leaving their prisoner outside, in the +hope that he would make some attempt to escape. In an instant Waters +threw his cloak upon a neighbouring olive bush, and mounted his cocked +hat on the top. Some empty flour sacks lay upon the ground, and a horse +laden with well-filled flour sacks stood at the door. Sir John +contrived to enter one of the empty sacks and throw himself across the +horse. When the soldiers came out of the house they fired their +carbines at the supposed prisoner, and galloped off at their utmost +speed. + +A short time after the miller came out and mounted his steed; the +general contrived to rid himself of the encumbrance of the sack, and +sat up, riding behind the man, who, suddenly turning round, saw a +ghost, as he believed, for the flour that still remained in the sack +had completely whitened his fellow-traveller and given him a most +unearthly appearance. The frightened miller was "putrified," as Mrs. +Malaprop would say, at the sight, and a push from the white spectre +brought the unfortunate man to the ground, when away rode the gallant +quartermaster with his sacks of flour, which, at length bursting, made +a ludicrous spectacle of man and horse. + +On reaching the English camp, where Lord Wellington was anxiously +deploring his fate, a sudden shout from the soldiers made his lordship +turn round, when a figure, resembling the statue in "Don Juan," +galloped up to him. The duke, affectionately shaking him by the hand, +said-- + +"Waters, you never yet deceived me; and though you have come in a most +questionable shape, I must congratulate you and myself." + +When this story was told at the clubs, one of those listeners, who +always want something more, called out, "Well, and what did Waters +say?" to which Alvanley replied-- + +"Oh, Waters made a very flowery speech, like a well-bred man." + + + + +THE BATTLE OF THE NIVELLE + + +We expected to remain quietly in our winter quarters at St. Jean de +Luz; but, to our surprise, early one morning, we were aroused from +sleep by the beating of the drum calling us to arms. We were soon in +marching order. It appeared that our outposts had been severely pushed +by the French, and we were called upon to support our companions in +arms. + +The whole of the British army, as well as the division of the Guards, +had commenced a forward movement. Soult, seeing this, entirely changed +his tactics, and from that time, viz. the 9th of December, a series of +engagements took place. The fighting on the 9th was comparatively +insignificant. When we were attacked on the 10th, the Guards held the +mayor's house, and the grounds and orchards attached: this was an +important station. + +Large bodies of the enemy's infantry approached, and, after desultory +fighting, succeeded in penetrating our position, when many hand-to-hand +combats ensued. Towards the afternoon, officers and men having +displayed great gallantry, we drove the enemy from the ground which +they courageously disputed with us, and from which they eventually +retreated to Bayonne. Every day there was constant fighting along the +whole of our line, which extended from the sea to the lower Pyrenees--a +distance probably not less than thirty miles. + +On the 11th, we only exchanged a few shots, but on the 12th Soult +brought into action from fifteen to twenty thousand men, and attacked +our left with a view of breaking our line. One of the most remarkable +incidents of the 12th was the fact of an English battalion being +surrounded by a division of French in the neighbourhood of the mayor's +house--which, as before observed, was one of our principal strategical +positions. The French commanding officer, believing that no attempt +would be made to resist, galloped up to the officer of the British +regiment, and demanded his sword. Upon this, without the least +hesitation, the British officer shouted out, "This fellow wants us to +surrender: charge, my boys! and show them what stuff we are made of." +Instantaneously, a hearty cheer rang out, and our men rushed forward +impetuously, drove off the enemy at the point of the bayonet, and soon +disposed of the surrounding masses. In a few minutes they had taken +prisoners, or killed, the whole of the infantry regiment opposed to +them. + +On the 13th was fought the bloody battle of the Nivelle. Soult had +determined to make a gigantic effort to drive us back into Spain. +During the night of the 12th, he rapidly concentrated about sixty +thousand troops in front of Sir Rowland Hill's corps d'armee, +consisting of 15,000 men, who occupied a very strong position, which +was defended by some of the best artillery in the world. At daybreak +Sir Rowland Hill was astonished to find himself threatened by masses of +infantry advancing over a country luckily intersected by rivulets, +hedges, and woods, which prevented the enemy from making a rapid +advance; whilst, at the same time, it was impossible on such ground to +employ cavalry. Sir Rowland, availing himself of an elevated position, +hurriedly surveyed his ground, and concentrated his men at such points +as he knew the nature of the field would induce the enemy to attack. +The French, confident of success from their superior numbers, came +gallantly up, using the bayonet for the first time in a premeditated +attack; Our men stood their ground, and for hours acted purely on the +defensive; being sustained by the admirable practice of our artillery, +whose movements no difficulty of ground could, on this occasion, +impede, so efficiently were the guns horsed, and so perfect was the +training of the officers. It was not until mid-day that the enemy +became discouraged at finding that they were unable to make any serious +impression on our position; they then retired in good order, Sir +Rowland Hill not daring to follow them. + +Lord Wellington arrived just in time to witness the end of the battle; +and while going over the field with Sir Rowland Hill, he remarked that +he had never seen so many men hors de combat in so small a space. + +I must not omit to mention a circumstance which occurred during this +great fight, alike illustrative of cowardice and of courage. The +colonel of an infantry regiment, who shall be nameless, being hard +pressed, showed a disposition not only to run away himself, but to +order his regiment to retire. In fact, a retrograde movement had +commenced, when my gallant and dear friend Lord Charles Spencer, +aide-de-camp to Sir William Stewart, dashed forward, and, seizing the +colours of the regiment, exclaimed, "If your colonel will not lead you, +follow me, my boys." The gallantry of this youth, then only eighteen +years of age, so animated the regiment, and restored their confidence, +that they rallied and shared in the glory of the day. + + + + +THE PASSAGE OF THE ADOUR + + +Immediately after the battle of Nivelle, Lord Wellington determined to +advance his whole line on to French ground. The right, under his own +command, pushed on towards Orthes, whilst the left, under the command +of Sir John Hope, proceeded in the direction of Bayonne. We (the +Guards) were incorporated in the latter corps d'armee. + +Whilst these operations were going on, Soult was organizing his +discouraged army, in order to make, as early as possible, another +convenient stand. The enemy fell back on Orthes, and there took up a +strong position; Soult was, nevertheless, destined to be beaten again +at Orthes. It so happened that, for the first time since the battle of +Vittoria, our cavalry were engaged: the nature of the ground at Nive +and Nivelle was such as to prevent the possibility of employing the +mounted soldier. + +I must here record an incident which created a considerable sensation +in military circles in connection with the battle of Orthes. The 10th +Hussars, officered exclusively by men belonging to the noblest families +of Great Britain, showed a desire to take a more active part in the +contest than their colonel (Quintin) thought prudent. They pressed hard +to be permitted to charge the French cavalry on more than one occasion, +but in vain. This so disgusted every officer in the regiment, that +they eventually signed a round robin, by which they agreed never again +to speak to their colonel. When the regiment returned to England, a +court of inquiry was held, which resulted, through the protection of +the Prince Regent, in the colonel's exoneration from all blame, and at +the same time the exchange of the rebellious officers into other +regiments. + +It was at the battle of Orthes that the late Duke of Richmond was shot +through the body, gallantly fighting with the 7th Fusiliers. Lord +Wellington had determined to cross the Adour, and Sir John Hope was +intrusted with a corps d'armee, which was the first to perform this +difficult operation. It was necessary to provide Sir John Hope with a +number of small boats; these were accordingly brought on the backs of +mules from various Spanish ports, it being impossible, on account of +the surf at the entrance of the Adour, as well as the command which the +French held of that river, for Lord Wellington to avail himself of +water carriage. Soult had given orders for the forces under General +Thevenot to dispute the passage. + +The first operations of our corps were to throw over the 3rd Guards, +under the command of the gallant Colonel Stopford; this was not +accomplished without much difficulty: but it was imperatively +necessary, in order to protect the point where the construction of the +bridge of boats would terminate. They had not been long on the French +side of the river before a considerable body of men were seen issuing +from Bayonne. Sir John Hope ordered our artillery, and rockets, then +for the first time employed, to support our small band. Three or four +regiments of French infantry were approaching rapidly, when a +well-directed fire of rockets fell amongst them. The consternation of +the Frenchmen was such, when these hissing, serpent-like projectiles +descended, that a panic ensued, and they retreated upon Bayonne. The +next day the bridge of boats was completed, and the whole army crossed. +Bayonne was eventually invested after a contest, in which it was +supposed our loss exceeded 500 or 600 men. Here we remained in camp +about six weeks, expecting to besiege the citadel; but this event never +came off: we, however, met with a severe disaster and a reverse. The +enemy made an unexpected sortie, and surrounded General Sir John Hope, +when he and the whole of his staff were taken prisoners. The French +killed and wounded about 1,000 men on this occasion. + +The hardly-contested battle of Toulouse was fought about this period, +but the Guards were not present to share the honours of a contest which +closed the eventful war of the Spanish Peninsula. + + + + +ARRIVAL OF THE GUARDS AT BORDEAUX + + +When we reached Bordeaux, which had now become a stronghold of the +Royalists, we were received by the inhabitants with a welcome which +resembled what would be shown to friends and deliverers, rather than to +a foreign soldiery. Nothing could be more gratifying and more +acceptable to our feelings, since it was the first time after our +arrival on the Continent that we met with cordiality and an apparent +desire to make our quarters as comfortable as possible. The Duc +d'Angouleme had reached Bordeaux before us, and no doubt his presence +had prepared the way for all the friends of the Bourbons. Everywhere +some description of white rag was doing duty for a Royalist banner. I +lived at M. Devigne's, a rich wine-merchant who had a family of two +sons and two beautiful daughters; the latter were, as I thought, taken +remarkable care of by their maternal parent. Here I had evidently +fallen upon my legs, for not only was the family a most agreeable one, +but their hospitality was of the most generous kind. Sir Stapylton +Cotton was our frequent visitor, together with M. Martignac, afterwards +Minister of Charles the Tenth. + +Here I had an opportunity of meeting some of the prettiest women of a +city famed all over Europe for its female beauty. The young ladies +were remarkable for their taste in dress, which in those days consisted +of a mantilla a l'Espagnole, and silken shawls of varied hues, so +admirably blended, that the eye was charmed with their richness of +colour. The grisettes, who were as much admired by the soldiers as +were the high dames by the officers, were remarkable for a coquettish +species of apron of a red dye, which was only to be obtained from the +neighbourhood. + +Of course we were all very anxious to taste the Bordeaux wines; but our +palates, accustomed to the stronger vintages of Spain, I suspect were +not in a condition to appreciate the more delicate and refined bouquets +which ought to characterize claret. A vin ordinaire, which now at +restaurateur's would cost three francs, was then furnished at the +hotels for fifteen sous: a Larose, Lafitte, Margot, such as we are now +paying eight or ten francs a bottle for, did not cost a third. I must +not, however, forget that greater attention and care is now employed in +the preparation of French wines. The exportation to England of the +light red wines of France was not sufficiently profitable, as I learnt +from my host, at that time to attract the cupidity of commerce. + +In the Guards, Bordeaux was more affectionately remembered in connexion +with its women than its wine. We left it with regret, and the more +youthful and imaginative amongst us said that we were wafted across the +Channel by the gentle sighs of the girls we left behind us. + + + + +MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE + + +Our army, despite its defects, was nevertheless infinitely better +administered at home when I joined than it had been a few years before; +owing principally to the inquiry that had taken place in the House of +Commons, relative to the bribery and corruption which had crept in, and +which had been laid open by the confessions of a female, who created no +small sensation in those days, and who eventually terminated her +extraordinary career, not very long since, in Paris. + +The squibs fired off by Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke had a much greater +influence, and produced more effect upon the English army, than all the +artillery of the enemy directed against the Duke of York when +commanding in Holland. This lady was remarkable for her beauty and her +fascinations; and few came within the circle over which she presided +who did not acknowledge her superior power. Her wit, which kept the +House of Commons, during her examination, in a continued state of +merriment, was piquant and saucy. Her answers on that occasion have +been so often brought before the public, that I need not repeat them; +but, in private life, her quick repartee, and her brilliant sallies, +rendered her a lively, though not always an agreeable companion. As +for prudence, she had none; her dearest friend, if she had any, was +just as likely to be made the object of her ridicule as the most +obnoxious person of her acquaintance. + +Her narrative of her first introduction to the Duke of York has often +been repeated; but, as all her stories were considered apocryphal, it +is difficult to arrive at a real history of her career. Certain +however, is it that, about the age of sixteen, she was residing at +Blackheath--a sweet, pretty, lively girl--when, in her daily walk +across the heath, she was passed, on two or three occasions, by a +handsome, well-dressed cavalier, who, finding that she recognised his +salute, dismounted; pleased with her manner and wit, he begged to be +allowed to introduce a friend. Accordingly, on her consenting, a person +to whom the cavalier appeared to pay every sort of deference was +presented to her, and the acquaintance ripened into something more than +friendship. Not the slightest idea had the young lady of the position +in society of her lover, until she accompanied him, on his invitation, +to the theatre, where she occupied a private box, when she was +surprised at the ceremony with which she was treated, and at observing +that every eye and every lorgnette in the house were directed towards +her in the course of the evening. She accepted this as a tribute to her +beauty. Finding that she could go again to the theatre when she +pleased, and occupy the same box, she availed herself of this +opportunity with a female friend, and was not a little astonished at +being addressed as Her Royal Highness. She then discovered that the +individual into whose affections she had insinuated herself was the son +of the King, the Duke of York, who had not long before united himself +to a lady, for whom she had been mistaken. + +Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke was soon reconciled to the thought of being the +wife of a prince by the left hand, particularly as she found herself +assiduously courted by persons of the highest rank, and more especially +by military men. A large house in a fashionable street was taken for +her, and an establishment on a magnificent scale gave her an +opportunity of surrounding herself with persons of a sphere far beyond +anything she could in her younger days have dreamt of; her father +having been in an honourable trade, and her husband being only a +captain in a marching regiment. The duke, delighted to see his fair +friend so well received, constantly honoured her dinner-table with his +presence, and willingly gratified any wish that she expressed; and he +must have known (and for this he was afterwards highly censured) that +her style of living was upon a scale of great expense, and that he +himself contributed little towards it. The consequence was that the +hospitable lady eventually became embarrassed, and knew not which way +to turn to meet her outlay. It was suggested to her that she might +obtain from the duke commissions in the army, which she could easily +dispose of at a good price. Individuals quickly came forward, ready to +purchase anything that came within her grasp, which she extended not +only to the army, but, as it afterwards appeared, to the Church; for +there were reverend personages who availed themselves of her +assistance, and thus obtained patronage, by which they advanced their +worldly interests very rapidly. + + + + +MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE AND COL. WARDLE + + +Amongst those who paid great attention to Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke was +Colonel Wardle, at that time a remarkable member of the House of +Commons, and a bold leader of the Radical Opposition. He got +intimately acquainted with her, and was so great a personal favourite +that it was believed he wormed out all her secret history, of which he +availed himself to obtain a fleeting popularity. + +Having obtained the names of some of the parties who had been fortunate +enough, as they imagined, to secure the lady's favour, he loudly +demanded an inquiry in the House of Commons as to the management of the +army by the Commander-in-Chief, the Duke of York. The nation and the +army were fond of his Royal Highness, and every attempt to screen him +was made; but in vain. The House undertook the task of investigating +the conduct of the duke, and witnesses were produced, amongst whom was +the fair lady herself, who by no means attempted to screen her +imprudent admirer. Her responses to the questions put to her were +cleverly and archly given, and the whole mystery of her various +intrigues came to light. The duke consequently resigned his place in +the Horse Guards, and at the same time repudiated the beautiful and +dangerous cause of his humiliation. The lady, incensed at the +desertion of her royal swain, announced her intention of publishing his +love-letters, which were likely to expose the whole of the royal family +to ridicule, as they formed the frequent themes of his correspondence. +Sir Herbert Taylor was therefore commissioned to enter into a +negotiation for the purchase of the letters; this he effected at an +enormous price, obtaining a written document at the same time by which +Mrs. Clarke was subjected to heavy penalties if she, by word or deed, +implicated the honour of any of the branches of the royal family. A +pension was secured to her, on condition that she should quit England, +and reside wherever she chose on the Continent. To all this she +consented, and, in the first instance, went to Brussels, where her +previous history being scarcely known, she was well received; and she +married her daughters without any inquiry as to the fathers to whom she +might ascribe them. + +Mrs. Clarke afterwards settled quietly and comfortably in Paris, +receiving occasionally visits from members of the aristocracy who had +known her when mingling in a certain circle in London. The Marquis of +Londonderry never failed to pay his respects to her, entertaining a +very high opinion of her talents. Her manners were exceedingly +agreeable, and to the latest day she retained pleasing traces of past +beauty. She was lively, sprightly, and full of fun, and indulged in +innumerable anecdotes of the members of the royal family of +England--some of them much too scandalous to be repeated. She regarded +the Duke of York as a big baby, not out of his leading-strings, and the +Prince of Wales as an idle sensualist, with just enough of brains to be +guided by any laughing, well-bred individual who would listen to stale +jokes and impudent ribaldry. Of Queen Charlotte she used to speak with +the utmost disrespect, attributing to her a love of domination and a +hatred of every one who would not bow down before any idol that she +chose to set up; and as being envious of the Princess Caroline and her +daughter the Princess Charlotte of Wales, and jealous of their +acquiring too much influence over the Prince of Wales. In short, Mary +Anne Clarke had been so intimately let into every secret of the life of +the royal family that, had she not been tied down, her revelations +would have astonished the world, however willing the people might have +been to believe that they were tinged with scandal and exaggeration. + + +The way in which Colonel Wardle first obtained information of the sale +of commissions was singular enough: he was paying a clandestine visit +to Mrs. Clarke, when a carriage with the royal livery drove up to the +door, and the gallant officer was compelled to take refuge under the +sofa; but instead of the royal duke, there appeared one of his +aide-de-camps, who entered into conversation in so mysterious a manner +as to excite the attention of the gentleman under the sofa, and led him +to believe that the sale of a commission was authorised by the +Commander-in-Chief; though it afterwards appeared that it was a private +arrangement of the unwelcome visitor. At the Horse-Guards, it had +often been suspected that there was a mystery connected with +commissions that could not be fathomed; as it frequently happened that +the list of promotions agreed on was surreptitiously increased by the +addition of new names. This was the crafty handiwork of the +accomplished dame; the duke having employed her as his amanuensis, and +being accustomed to sign her autograph lists without examination. + + + + +SOCIETY IN LONDON IN 1814 + + +In the year 1814, my battalion of the Guards was once more in its old +quarters in Portman Street barracks, enjoying the fame of our Spanish +campaign. Good society at the period to which I refer was, to use a +familiar expression, wonderfully "select." At the present time one can +hardly conceive the importance which was attached to getting admission +to Almack's, the seventh heaven of the fashionable world. Of the three +hundred officers of the Foot Guards, not more than half a dozen were +honoured with vouchers of admission to this exclusive temple of the +beau monde; the gates of which were guarded by lady patronesses, whose +smiles or frowns consigned men and women to happiness or despair. These +lady patronesses were the Ladies Castlereagh, Jersey, Cowper, and +Sefton, Mrs. Drummond Burrell, now Lady Willoughby, the Princess +Esterhazy, and the Countess Lieven. + +The most popular amongst these grandes dames was unquestionably Lady +Cowper, now Lady Palmerston. Lady Jersey's bearing, on the contrary, +was that of a theatrical tragedy queen; and whilst attempting the +sublime, she frequently made herself simply ridiculous, being +inconceivably rude, and in her manner often ill-bred. Lady Sefton was +kind and amiable, Madame de Lieven haughty and exclusive, Princess +Esterhazy was a bon enfant, Lady Castlereagh and Mrs. Burrell de tres +grandes dames. + +Many diplomatic arts, much finesse, and a host of intrigues, were set +in motion to get an invitation to Almack's. Very often persons whose +rank and fortunes entitled them to the entree anywhere, were excluded +by the cliqueism of the lady patronesses; for the female government of +Almack's was a pure despotism, and subject to all the caprices of +despotic rule: it is needless to add that, like every other despotism, +it was not innocent of abuses. The fair ladies who ruled supreme over +this little dancing and gossiping world, issued a solemn proclamation +that no gentleman should appear at the assemblies without being dressed +in knee-breeches, white cravat, and chapeau bras. On one occasion, the +Duke of Wellington was about to ascend the staircase of the ball-room, +dressed in black trousers, when the vigilant Mr. Willis, the guardian +of the establishment, stepped forward and said, "Your Grace cannot be +admitted in trousers," whereupon the Duke, who had a great respect for +orders and regulations, quietly walked away. + +In 1814, the dances at Almack's were Scotch reels and the old English +country-dance; and the orchestra, being from Edinburgh, was conducted +by the then celebrated Neil Gow. It was not until 1815 that Lady +Jersey introduced from Paris the favourite quadrille, which has so long +remained popular. I recollect the persons who formed the very first +quadrille that was ever danced at Almack's: they were Lady Jersey, Lady +Harriet Butler, Lady Susan Ryder, and Miss Montgomery; the men being +the Count St. Aldegonde, Mr. Montgomery, Mr. Montague, and Charles +Standish. The "mazy waltz" was also brought to us about this time; but +there were comparatively few who at first ventured to whirl round the +salons of Almack's; in course of time Lord Palmerston might, however, +have been seen describing an infinite number of circles with Madame de +Lieven. Baron de Neumann was frequently seen perpetually turning with +the Princess Esterhazy; and, in course of time, the waltzing mania, +having turned the heads of society generally, descended to their feet, +and the waltz was practised in the morning in certain noble mansions in +London with unparalleled assiduity. + +The dandies of society were Beau Brummell (of whom I shall have to say +something on another occasion), the Duke of Argyle, the Lords +Worcester, Alvanley, and Foley, Henry Pierrepoint, John Mills, +Bradshaw, Henry de Ros, Charles Standish, Edward Montagu, Hervey Aston, +Dan Mackinnon, George Dawson Damer, Lloyd (commonly known as Rufus +Lloyd), and others who have escaped my memory. They were great +frequenters of White's Club, in St. James's Street, where, in the +famous bay window, they mustered in force. + +Drinking and play were more universally indulged in then than at the +present time, and many men still living must remember the couple of +bottles of port at least which accompanied his dinner in those days. +Indeed, female society amongst the upper classes was most notoriously +neglected; except, perhaps, by romantic foreigners, who were the heroes +of many at fashionable adventure that fed the clubs with ever +acceptable scandal. How could it be otherwise, when husbands spent +their days in the hunting-field, or were entirely occupied with +politics, and always away from home during the day; whilst the +dinner-party, commencing at seven or eight, frequently did not break up +before one in the morning. There were then four-, and even five-bottle +men; and the only thing that saved them was drinking very slowly, and +out of very small glasses. The learned head of the law, Lord Eldon, and +his brother, Lord Stowell, used to say that they had drunk more bad +port than any two men in England; indeed, the former was rather apt to +be overtaken, and to speak occasionally somewhat thicker than natural, +after long and heavy potations. The late Lords Panmure, Dufferin, and +Blayney, wonderful to relate, were six-bottle men at this time; and I +really think that if the good society of 1815 could appear before their +more moderate descendants in the state they were generally reduced to +after dinner, the moderns would pronounce their ancestors fit for +nothing but bed. + + + + +THE ITALIAN OPERA.--CATALANI + + +The greatest vocalist of whom I have a recollection, is Madame +Catalani. In her youth, she was the finest singer in Europe, and she +was much sought after by all the great people during her sejour in +London. She was extremely handsome, and was considered a model as wife +and mother. Catalani was very fond of money, and would never sing +unless paid beforehand. She was invited, with her husband, to pass some +time at Stowe, where a numerous but select party had been invited; and +Madame Catalani, being asked to sing soon after dinner, willingly +complied. When the day of her departure came, her husband placed in the +hands of the Marquis of Buckingham the following little billet:--"For +seventeen songs, seventeen hundred pounds." This large sum was paid at +once, without hesitation; proving that Lord Buckingham was a refined +gentleman, in every sense of the word. + +Catalani's husband, M. de Valabreque, once fought a duel with a German +baron who had insulted the prima donna; the weapons used were sabres, +and Valabreque cut half of the Baron's nose clean off. Madame Catalani +lived for many years, highly respected, at a handsome villa near +Florence. Her two sons are now distinguished members of the Imperial +court in Paris; the eldest being Prefet du Palais, and the youngest +colonel of a regiment of hussars. + +When George the Fourth was Regent, Her Majesty's Theatre, as the +Italian Opera in the Haymarket is still called, was conducted on a very +different system from that which now prevails. Some years previous to +the period to which I refer, no one could obtain a box or a ticket for +the pit without a voucher from one of the lady patronesses; who, in +1805, were the Duchesses of Marlborough, Devonshire, and Bedford, Lady +Carlisle, and some others. In their day, after, the singing and the +ballet were over, the company used to retire into the concert-room, +where a ball took place, accompanied by refreshments and a supper. +There all the rank and fashion of England were assembled on a sort of +neutral ground. At a later period, the management of the Opera House +fell into the hands of Mr. Waters, when it became less difficult to +obtain admittance; but the strictest etiquette was still kept up as +regarded the dress of the gentlemen, who were only admitted with +knee-buckles, ruffles, and chapeau bras. If there happened to be a +drawing-room, the ladies would appear in their court-dresses, as well +as the gentlemen, and on all occasions the audience of Her Majesty's +Theatre was stamped with aristocratic elegance. In the boxes of the +first tier might have been seen the daughters of the Duchess of Argyle, +four of England's beauties; in the next box were the equally lovely +Marchioness of Stafford and her daughter, Lady Elizabeth Gore, now the +Duchess of Norfolk: not less remarkable was Lady Harrowby and her +daughters Lady Susan and Lady Mary Ryder. The peculiar type of female +beauty which these ladies so attractively exemplified, is such as can +be met with only in the British Isles: the full, round, soul-inspired +eye of Italy, and the dark hair of the sunny south, often combined with +that exquisitely pearly complexion which seems to be concomitant with +humidity and fog. You could scarcely gaze upon the peculiar beauty to +which I refer without being as much charmed with its kindly expression +as with its physical loveliness. + + + + +DINING AND COOKERY IN ENGLAND FIFTY YEARS AGO + + +England can boast of a Spenser, Shakspeare, Milton, and many other +illustrious poets, clearly indicating that the national character of +Britons is not deficient in imagination; but we have not had one single +masculine inventive genius of the kitchen. It is the probable result +of our national antipathy to mysterious culinary compounds, that none +of the bright minds of England have ventured into the region of +scientific cookery. Even in the best houses, when I was a young man, +the dinners were wonderfully solid, hot and stimulating. The menu of a +grand dinner was thus composed:--Mulligatawny and turtle soups were the +first dishes placed before you; a little lower, the eye met with the +familiar salmon at one end of the table, and the turbot, surrounded by +smelts, at the other. The first course was sure to be followed by a +saddle of mutton or a piece of roast beef; and then you could take your +oath that fowls, tongue, and ham, would as assuredly succeed as +darkness after day. + +Whilst these never ending pieces de resistance were occupying the +table, what were called French dishes were, for custom's sake, added to +the solid abundance. The French, or side dishes, consisted of very +mild but very abortive attempts at Continental cooking, and I have +always observed that they met with the neglect and contempt that they +merited. The universally adored and ever popular boiled potato, +produced at the very earliest period of the dinner, was eaten with +everything, up to the moment when sweets appeared. Our vegetables, the +best in the world, were never honoured by an accompanying sauce, and +generally came to the table cold. A prime difficulty to overcome was +the placing on your fork, and finally in your mouth, some half-dozen +different eatables which occupied your plate at the same time. For +example, your plate would contain, say, a slice of turkey, a piece of +stuffing, a sausage, pickles, a slice of tongue, cauliflower, and +potatoes. According to habit and custom, a judicious and careful +selection from this little bazaar of good things was to be made, with +an endeavour to place a portion of each in your mouth at the same +moment. In fact, it appeared to me that we used to do all our compound +cookery between our jaws. The dessert--generally ordered at Messrs. +Grange's, or at Owen's, in Bond Street--if for a dozen people, would +cost at least as many pounds. The wines were chiefly port, sherry, and +hock; claret, and even Burgundy, being then designated "poor, thin, +washy stuff." A perpetual thirst seemed to come over people, both men +and women, as soon as they had tasted their soup; as from that moment +everybody was taking wine with everybody else till the close of the +dinner; and such wine as produced that class of cordiality which +frequently wanders into stupefaction. How all this sort of eating and +drinking ended was obvious, from the prevalence of gout, and the +necessity of everyone making the pill-box their constant bedroom +companion. + + + + +THE PRINCE REGENT + + +When the eldest son of George the Third assumed the Regency, England +was in a state of political transition. The convulsions of the +Continent were felt amongst us; the very foundations of European +society were shaking, and the social relations of men were rapidly +changing. The Regent's natural leanings were towards the Tories; +therefore as soon as he undertook the responsibility of power, he +abruptly abandoned the Whigs and retained in office the admirers and +partisans of his father's policy. This resolution caused him to have +innumerable and inveterate enemies, who never lost an opportunity of +attacking his public acts and interfering with his domestic relations. + +The Regent was singularly imbued with petty royal pride. He would +rather be amiable and familiar with his tailor than agreeable and +friendly with the most illustrious of the aristocracy of Great Britain; +he would rather joke with a Brummell than admit to his confidence a +Norfolk or a Somerset. The Regent was always particularly well-bred in +public, and showed, if he chose, decidedly good manners; but he was in +the habit very often of addressing himself in preference to those whom +he felt he could patronise. His Royal Highness was as much the victim +of circumstances and the child of thoughtless imprudence as the most +humble subject of the crown. His unfortunate marriage with a Princess +of Brunswick originated in his debts; as he married that unhappy lady +for one million sterling, William Pitt being the contractor! The +Princess of Wales married nothing but an association with the Crown of +England. If the Prince ever seriously loved any woman, it was Mrs. +Fitzherbert, with whom he had appeared at the altar. + +Public opinion in England, under the inspiration of the Whigs, raised a +cry of indignation against the Prince. It was imagined, I presume, +that royal personage should be born without heart or feeling; that he +should have been able to live only for the good of the State and for +the convenience of his creditors. The Princess of Wales was one of the +most unattractive and almost repulsive women for an elegant-minded man +that could well have been found amongst German royalty. It is not my +intention to recall the events of the Regency. It is well known that +the Prince became eventually so unpopular as to exclude himself as much +as possible from public gaze. His intimate companions, after the trial +of Queen Caroline, were Lords Cunningham and Fife, Sir Benjamin +Bloomfield, Sir William Macmahon, Admiral Nagle, Sir A. Barnard, Lords +Glenlyon, Hertford, and Lowther. These gentlemen generally dined with +him; the dinner being the artistic product of that famous gastronomic +savant, Wattiers. The Prince was very fond of listening after dinner +to the gossip of society. When he became George the Fourth, no change +took place in these personnels at the banquet, excepting that with the +fruits and flowers of the table was introduced the beautiful +Marchioness of Conyngham, whose brilliant wit, according to the +estimation of his Majesty, surpassed that of any other of his friends, +male or female. + + + + +PRINCESS CHARLOTTE OF WALES AT A FETE IN THE YEAR 1813, AT CARLTON HOUSE + + +Carlton House, at the period to which I refer, was a centre for all the +great politicians and wits who were the favorites of the Regent. The +principal entrance of this palace in Pall Mall, with its screen of +columns, will be remembered by many. In the rear of the mansion was an +extensive garden that reached from Warwick Street to Marlborough House; +green sward, stately trees, (probably two hundred years old), and beds +of the choicest flowers, gave to the grounds a picturesque attraction +perhaps unequalled. It was here that the heir to the throne of England +gave, in 1813, an open-air fete, in honour of the battle of Vittoria. +About three o'clock P.M. the elite of London society, who had been +honoured with an invitation, began to arrive--all in full dress; the +ladies particularly displaying their diamonds and pearls, as if they +were going to a drawing-room. The men were, of course, in full dress, +wearing knee-buckles. The regal circle was composed of the Queen, the +Regent, the Princess Sophia and Mary, the Princess Charlotte, the Dukes +of York, Clarence, Cumberland, and Cambridge. + +This was the first day that her Royal Highness the Princess Charlotte +appeared in public. She was a young lady of more than ordinary +personal attractions; her features were regular, and her complexion +fair, with the rich bloom of youthful beauty; her eyes were blue and +very expressive, and her hair was abundant, and of that peculiar light +brown which merges into the golden: in fact, such hair as the +Middle-Age Italian painters associate with their conceptions of the +Madonna. In figure her Royal Highness was somewhat over the ordinary +height of women, but finely proportioned and well developed. Her +manners were remarkable for a simplicity and good-nature which would +have won admiration and invited affection in the most humble walks of +life. She created universal admiration, and I may say a feeling of +national pride, amongst all who attended the ball. The Prince Regent +entered the gardens giving his arm to the Queen, the rest of the royal +family following. Tents had been erected in various parts of the +grounds, where the bands of the Guards were stationed. The weather was +magnificent, a circumstance which contributed to show off the admirable +arrangements of Sir Benjamin Bloomfield, to whom had been deputed the +organization of the fete, which commenced by dancing on the lawn. + +The Princess Charlotte honoured with her presence two dances. In the +first she accepted the hand of the late Duke of Devonshire, and in the +second that of the Earl of Aboyne, who had danced with Marie +Antoinette, and who, as Lord Huntley, lived long enough to dance with +Queen Victoria. The Princess entered so much into the spirit of the +fete as to ask for the then fashionable Scotch dances. The Prince was +dressed in the Windsor uniform, and wore the garter and star. He made +himself very amiable, and conversed much with the Ladies Hertford, +Cholmondeley, and Montford. Altogether, the fete was a memorable event. + +A year afterwards, the Duke of York said to his royal niece, "Tell me, +my dear, have you seen anyone among the foreign princes whom you would +like to have for a husband?" The Princess naively replied, "No one so +much prepossesses me as Prince Leopold of Coburg. I have heard much of +his bravery in the field, and I must say he is personally agreeable to +me. I have particularly heard of his famous cavalry charge at the +battle of Leipsic, where he took several thousand prisoners, for which +he was rewarded with the Order of Maria Therese." In a few months +afterwards she became the wife of the man whom she so much admired, and +from whom she was torn away not long after by the cruel hand of death. +It will be remembered that she died in childbirth, and her offspring +expired at the same time. The accoucheur who attended her was so much +affected by the calamity, that he committed suicide some short time +afterwards. + + + + +BEAU BRUMMELL + + +Amongst the curious freaks of fortune there is none more remarkable in +my memory than the sudden appearance, in the highest and best society +in London, of a young man whose antecedents warranted a much less +conspicuous career: I refer to the famous Beau Brummell. We have +innumerable instances of soldiers, lawyers, and men of letters, +elevating themselves from the most humble stations, and becoming the +companions of princes and lawgivers; but there are comparatively few +examples of men obtaining a similarly elevated position simply from +their attractive personal appearance and fascinating manners. +Brummell's father, who was a steward to one or two large estates, sent +his son George to Eton. He was endowed with a handsome person, and +distinguished himself at Eton as the best scholar, the best boatman, +and the best cricketer; and, more than all, he was supposed to possess +the comprehensive excellences that are represented by the familiar term +of "good fellow." He made many friends amongst the scions of good +families, by whom he was considered a sort of Crichton; and his +reputation reached a circle over which reigned the celebrated Duchess +of Devonshire. At a grand ball given by her Grace, George Brummell, +then quite a youth, appeared for the first time in such elevated +society. He immediately became a great favourite with the ladies, and +was asked by all the dowagers to as many balls and soirees as he could +attend. + +At last the Prince of Wales sent for Brummell, and was so much pleased +with his manner and appearance, that he gave him a commission in his +own regiment, the 10th Hussars. Unluckily, Brummell, soon after +joining his regiment, was thrown from his horse at a grand review at +Brighton, when he broke his classical Roman nose. This misfortune, +however, did not affect the fame of the beau; and although his nasal +organ had undergone a slight transformation, it was forgiven by his +admirers, since the rest of his person remained intact. When we are +prepossessed by the attractions of a favourite, it is not a trifle that +will dispel the illusion; and Brummell continued to govern society, in +conjunction with the Prince of Wales. He was remarkable for his dress, +which was generally conceived by himself; the execution of his sublime +imagination being carried out by that superior genius, Mr. Weston, +tailor, of Old Bond Street. The Regent sympathised deeply with +Brummell's labours to arrive at the most attractive and gentlemanly +mode of dressing the male form, at a period when fashion had placed at +the disposal of the tailor the most hideous material that could +possibly tax his art. The coat may have a long tail or a short tail, a +high collar or a low collar, but it will always be an ugly garment. +The modern hat may be spread out at the top, or narrowed, whilst the +brim may be turned up or turned down, made a little wider or a little +more narrow, still it is inconceivably hideous. Pantaloons and Hessian +boots were the least objectionable features of the costume which the +imagination of a Brummell and the genius of a Royal Prince were called +upon to modify or change. The hours of meditative agony which each +dedicated to the odious fashions of the day have left no monument save +the coloured caricatures in which these illustrious persons have +appeared. + +Brummell, at this time, besides being the companion and friend of the +Prince, was very intimate with the Dukes of Rutland, Dorset, and +Argyll, Lords Sefton, Alvanley, and Plymouth. In the zenith of his +popularity he might be seen at the bay window of White's Club, +surrounded by the lions of the day, laying down the law, and +occasionally indulging in those witty remarks for which he was famous. +His house in Chapel Street corresponded with his personal "get up"; the +furniture was in excellent taste, and the library contained the best +works of the best authors of every period and of every country. His +canes, his snuff-boxes, his Sevres china, were exquisite; his horses +and carriage were conspicuous for their excellence; and, in fact, the +superior taste of a Brummell was discoverable in everything that +belonged to him. + +But the reign of the king of fashion, like all other reigns, was not +destined to continue for ever. Brummell warmly espoused the cause of +Mrs. Fitzherbert, and this of course offended the Prince of Wales. I +refer to the period when his Royal Highness had abandoned that +beautiful woman for another favourite. A coldness sprang up between +the Prince and his protege, and finally, the mirror of fashion was +excluded from the royal presence. A curious accident brought Brummell +again to the dinner-table of his royal patron; he was asked one night +at White's to take a hand at whist, when he won from George Harley +Drummond 20,000£. This circumstance having been related by the Duke of +York to the Prince of Wales, the beau was again invited to Carlton +House. At the commencement of the dinner, matters went off smoothly; +but Brummell, in his joy at finding himself with his old friend, became +excited, and drank too much wine. His Royal Highness--who wanted to +pay off Brummell for an insult he had received at Lady Cholmondeley's +ball, when the beau, turning towards the Prince, said to Lady +Worcester, "Who is your fat friend?"--had invited him to dinner merely +out of a desire for revenge. The Prince therefore pretended to be +affronted with Brummell's hilarity, and said to his brother, the Duke +of York, who was present, "I think we had better order Mr. Brummell's +carriage before he gets drunk." Whereupon he rang the bell, and +Brummell left the royal presence. This circumstance originated the +story about the beau having told the Prince to ring the bell. I +received these details from the late General Sir Arthur Upton, who was +present at the dinner. The latter days of Brummell were clouded with +mortifications and penury. He retired to Calais, where he kept up a +ludicrous imitation of his past habits. At least he got himself named +consul at Caen; but he afterwards lost the appointment, and eventually +died insane, and in abject poverty, either at Boulogne or Calais. + + + + +ROMEO COATES + + +This singular man, more than forty years ago, occupied a large portion +of public attention; his eccentricities were the theme of general +wonder, and great was the curiosity to catch a glance at as strange a +being as any that ever appeared in English society. This extraordinary +individual was a native of one of the West India Islands, and was +represented as a man of extraordinary wealth; to which, however, he had +no claim. + +About the year 1808 there arrived at the York Hotel, at Bath, a person +about the age of fifty, somewhat gentlemanlike, but so different from +the usual men of the day that considerable attention was directed to +him. He was of a good figure; but his face was sallow, seamed with +wrinkles, and more expressive of cunning than of any other quality. His +dress was remarkable: in the day-time he was covered at all seasons +with enormous quantities of fur; but the evening costume in which he +went to the balls made a great impression, from its gaudy appearance; +for his buttons as well as his knee-buckles were of diamonds. There was +of course great curiosity to know who this stranger was; and this +curiosity was heightened by an announcement that he proposed to appear +at the theatre in the character of Romeo. There was something so +unlike the impassioned lover in his appearance--so much that indicated +a man with few intellectual gifts--that everybody was prepared for a +failure. No one, however, anticipated the reality. + +On the night fixed for his appearance the house was crowded to +suffocation. The playbills had given out that "an amateur of fashion" +would for that night only perform in the character of Romeo; besides, +it was generally whispered that the rehearsals gave indication of +comedy rather than tragedy, and that his readings were of a perfectly +novel character. + +The very first appearance of Romeo convulsed the house with laughter. +Benvolio prepares the audience for the stealthy visit of the lover to +the object of his admiration; and fully did the amateur give the +expression to one sense of the words uttered, for he was indeed the +true representative of a thief stealing onwards in the night, "with +Tarquin's ravishing strides," and disguising his face as if he were +thoroughly ashamed of it. The darkness of the scene did not, however, +show his real character so much as the masquerade, when he came forward +with hideous grin, and made what he considered his bow,--which +consisted in thrusting his head forward and bobbing it up and down +several times, his body remaining perfectly upright and stiff, like a +toy mandarin with moveable head. + +His dress was outre in the extreme: whether Spanish, Italian, or +English, no one could say; it was like nothing ever worn. In a cloak +of sky-blue silk, profusely spangled, red pantaloons, a vest of white +muslin, surmounted by an enormously thick cravat, and a wig a la +Charles the Second, capped by an opera hat, he presented one of the +most grotesque spectacles ever witnessed upon the stage. The whole of +his garments were evidently too tight for him; and his movements +appeared so incongruous, that every time he raised his arm, or moved a +limb, it was impossible to refrain from laughter: but what chiefly +convulsed the audience was the bursting of a seam in an inexpressible +part of his dress, and the sudden extrusion through the red rent of a +quantity of white linen sufficient to make a Bourbon flag, which was +visible whenever he turned round. This was at first supposed to be a +wilful offence against common decency, and some disapprobation was +evinced; but the utter unconsciousness of the odd creature was soon +apparent, and then urestrained mirth reigned throughout the boxes, pit, +and gallery. The total want of flexibility of limb, the awkwardness of +his gait, and the idiotic manner in which he stood still, all produced +a most ludicrous effect; but when his guttural voice was heard, and his +total misapprehension of every passage in the play, especially the +vulgarity of his address to Juliet, were perceived, everyone was +satisfied that Shakspeare's Romeo was burlesqued on that occasion. + +The balcony scene was interrupted by shrieks of laughter, for in the +midst of one of Juliet's impassioned exclamations, Romeo quietly took +out his snuff-box and applied a pinch to his nose; on this a wag in the +gallery bawled out, "I say, Romeo, give us a pinch," when the +impassioned lover, in the most affected manner, walked to the side +boxes and offered the contents of his box first to the gentlemen, and +then, with great gallantry, to the ladies. This new interpretation of +Shakspeare was hailed with loud bravos, which the actor acknowledged +with his usual grin and nod. Romeo then returned to the balcony, and +was seen to extend his arms; but all passed in dumb show, so incessant +were the shouts of laughter. All that went on upon the stage was for a +time quite inaudible, but previous to the soliloquy "I do remember an +apothecary," there was for a moment a dead silence; for in rushed the +hero with a precipitate step until he reached the stage lamps, when he +commenced his speech in the lowest possible whisper, as if he had +something to communicate to the pit that ought not to be generally +known; and this tone was kept up throughout the whole of the soliloquy, +so that not a sound could be heard. + +The amateur actor showed many indications of aberration of mind, and +seemed rather the object of pity than of amusement; he, however, +appeared delighted with himself, and also with his audience, for at the +conclusion he walked first to the left of the stage and bobbed his head +in his usual grotesque manner at the side boxes; then to the right, +performing the same feat; after which, going to the centre of the stage +with the usual bob, and placing his hand upon his left breast, he +exclaimed, "Haven't I done it well?" To this inquiry the house, +convulsed as it was with shouts of laughter, responded in such a way as +delighted the heart of Kean on one great occasion, when he said, "The +pit rose at me." The whole audience started up as if with one accord, +giving a yell of derision, whilst pocket-handkerchiefs waved from all +parts of the theatre. + +The dying scene was irresistibly comic, and I question if Liston, +Munden, or Joey Knight, was ever greeted with such merriment; for Romeo +dragged the unfortunate Juliet from the tomb, much in the same manner +as a washerwoman thrusts into her cart the bag of foul linen. But how +shall I describe his death? Out came a dirty silk handkerchief from +his pocket, with which he carefully swept the ground; then his opera +hat was carefully placed for a pillow, and down he laid himself. After +various tossings about he seemed reconciled to the position; but the +house vociferously bawled out, "Die again, Romeo!" and, obedient to +the command, he rose up, and went through the ceremony again. Scarcely +had he lain quietly down, when the call was again heard, and the +well-pleased amateur was evidently prepared to enact a third death; but +Juliet now rose up from her tomb, and gracefully put an end to this +ludicrous scene by advancing to the front of the stage and aptly +applying a quotation from Shakspeare:-- + + "Dying is such sweet sorrow, + That he will die again until to-morrow." + +Thus ended an extravaganza such as has seldom been witnessed; for +although Coates repeated the play at the Haymarket, amidst shouts of +laughter from the playgoers, there never was so ludicrous a performance +as that which took place at Bath on the first night of his appearance. +Eventually he was driven from the stage with much contumely, in +consequence of its having been discovered that, under pretence of +acting for a charitable purpose, he had obtained a sum of money for his +performances. His love of notoriety led him to have a most singular +shell-shaped carriage built, in which, drawn by two fine white horses, +he was wont to parade in the park; the harness, and every available +part of the vehicle (which was really handsome) were blazoned over with +his heraldic device--a cock crowing, and his appearance was heralded by +the gamins of London shrieking out "cock-a-doodle-doo." Coates +eventually quitted London and settled at Boulogne, where a fair lady +was induced to become the partner of his existence, notwithstanding the +ridicule of the whole world. + + + + +HYDE PARK AFTER THE PENINSULAR WAR + + +That extensive district of park land, the entrances of which are in +Piccadilly and Oxford Street, was far more rural in appearance in 1815 +than at the present day. Under the trees cows and deer were grazing; +the paths were fewer and none told of that perpetual tread of human +feet which now destroys all idea of country charms and illusions. As +you gazed from an eminence, no rows of monotonous houses reminded you +of the vicinity of a large city, and the atmosphere of Hyde Park was +then much more like what God has made it than the hazy, gray, +coal-darkened half-twilight of the London of to-day. The company which +then congregated daily about five, was composed of dandies and women in +the best society; the men mounted on such horses as England alone could +then produce. The dandy's dress consisted of a blue coat with brass +buttons, leather breeches, and top boots; and it was the fashion to +wear a deep, stiff white cravat, which prevented you from seeing your +boots while standing. All the world watched Brummell to imitate him, +and order their clothes of the tradesman who dressed that sublime +dandy. One day a youthful beau approached Brummell and said, "Permit +me to ask you where you get your blacking?" "Ah!" replied Brummell, +gazing complacently at his boots, "my blacking positively ruins me. I +will tell you in confidence; it is made with the finest champagne!" + +Many of the ladies used to drive into the park in a carriage called a +vis-a-vis, which held only two persons. The hammer-cloth, rich in +heraldic designs, the powdered footmen in smart liveries, and a +coachman who assumed all the gaiety and appearance of a wigged +archbishop, were indispensable. The equipages were generally much more +gorgeous than at a later period, when democracy invaded the parks, and +introduced what may be termed a "brummagem society," with +shabby-genteel carriages and servants. The carriage company consisted +of the most celebrated beauties, amongst whom were remarked the +Duchesses of Rutland, Argyle, Gordon, and Bedford, Ladies Cowper, +Foley, Heathcote, Louisa Lambton, Hertford, and Mountjoy. The most +conspicuous horsemen were the Prince Regent (accompanied by Sir +Benjamin Bloomfield); the Duke of York and his old friend, Warwick +Lake; the Duke of Dorset, on his white horse; the Marquis of Anglesea, +with his lovely daughters; Lord Harrowby and the Ladies Ryder; the Earl +of Sefton and the Ladies Molyneux; and the eccentric Earl of Moreton on +his long-tailed grey. In those days "pretty horsebreakers" would not +have dared to show themselves in Hyde Park; nor did you see any of the +lower or middle classes of London intruding themselves in regions +which, with a sort of tacit understanding, were then given up +exclusively to persons of rank and fashion. + + + + +LONDON HOTELS IN 1814 + + +There was a class of men, of very high rank, such as Lords Wellington, +Nelson, and Collingwood, Sir John Moore and some few others who never +frequented the clubs. The persons to whom I refer, and amongst whom +were many members of the sporting world, used to congregate at a few +hotels. The Clarendon, Limmer's, Ibbetson's, Fladong's, Stephens', and +Grillon's, were the fashionable hotels. The Clarendon was then kept by +a French cook, Jacquiers, who contrived to amass a large sum of money +in the service of Louis the Eighteenth in England, and subsequently +with Lord Darnley. This was the only public hotel where you could get +a genuine French dinner, and for which you seldom paid less than three +or four pounds; your bottle of champagne or of claret, in the year +1814, costing you a guinea. + +Limmer's was an evening resort for the sporting world; in fact, it was +a midnight Tattersal's, where you heard nothing but the language of the +turf, and where men with not very clean hands used to make up their +books. Limmer's was the most dirty hotel in London; but in the gloomy, +comfortless coffee-room might be seen many members of the rich +squirearchy, who visited London during the sporting season. This hotel +was frequently so crowded that a bed could not be obtained for any +amount of money; but you could always get a very good plain English +dinner, an excellent bottle of port, and some famous gin-punch. +Ibbetson's hotel was chiefly patronized by the clergy and young men +from the universities. The charges there were more economical than at +similar establishments. Fladong's, in Oxford Street, was chiefly +frequented by naval men; for in those days there was no club for +sailors. Stephens', in Bond Street, was a fashionable hotel, supported +by officers of the army and men about town. If a stranger asked to +dine there, he was stared at by the servants, and very solemnly assured +that there was no table vacant. It was not an uncommon thing to see +thirty or forty saddle-horses and tilburys waiting outside this hotel. +I recollect two of my old Welsh friends, who used each of them to +dispose of five bottles of wine daily, residing here in 1815, when the +familiar joints, boiled fish and fried soles, were the only eatables +you could order. + + + + +THE CLUBS OF LONDON IN 1814 + + +The members of the clubs in London, many years since, were persons, +almost without exception, belonging exclusively to the aristocratic +world. "My tradesmen," as King Allen used to call the bankers and the +merchants, had not then invaded White's, Boodle's, Brookes', or +Wattiers', in Bolton Street, Piccadilly; which, with the Guards, +Arthur's, and Graham's, were the only clubs at the West End of the +town. White's was decidedly the most difficult of entry; its list of +members comprised nearly all the noble names of Great Britain. + +The politics of White's club were then decidedly Tory. It was here +that play was carried on to an extent which made many ravages in large +fortunes, the traces of which have not disappeared at the present day. +General Scott, the father-in-law of George Canning and the Duke of +Portland, was known to have won at White's 200,000£.; thanks to his +notorious sobriety and knowledge of the game of whist. The General +possessed a great advantage over his companions by avoiding those +indulgences at the table which used to muddle other men's brains. He +confined himself to dining off something like a boiled chicken, with +toast-and-water; by such a regimen he came to the whist-table with a +clear head, and possessing as he did a remarkable memory, with great +coolness and judgment, he was able honestly to win the enormous sum of +200,000£. At Brookes', for nearly half a century, the play was of a +more gambling character than at White's. Faro and macao were indulged +in to an extent which enabled a man to win or to lose a considerable +fortune in one night. It was here that Charles James Fox, Selwyn, Lord +Carlisle, Lord Robert Spencer, General Fitzpatrick, and other great +Whigs, won and lost hundreds of thousands; frequently remaining at the +table for many hours without rising. + +On one occasion, Lord Robert Spencer contrived to lose the last +shilling of his considerable fortune, given him by his brother, the +Duke of Marlborough; General Fitzpatrick being much in the same +condition, they agreed to raise a sum of money, in order that they +might keep a faro bank. The members of the club made no objection, and +ere long they carried out their design. As is generally the case, the +bank was a winner, and Lord Robert bagged, as his share of the +proceeds, 100,000£. He retired, strange to say, from the foetid +atmosphere of play, with the money in his pocket, and never again +gambled. George Harley Drummond, of the famous banking-house, Charing +Cross, only played once in his whole life at White's Club at whist, on +which occasion he lost 20,000£. to Brummell. This event caused him to +retire from the banking-house of which he was a partner. + +Lord Carlisle was one of the most remarkable victims amongst the +players at Brookes', and Charles Fox, his friend, was not more +fortunate, being subsequently always in pecuniary difficulties. Many a +time, after a long night of hard play, the loser found himself at the +Israelitish establishment of Howard and Gibbs, then the fashionable and +patronized money-lenders. These gentlemen never failed to make hard +terms with the borrower, although ample security was invariably +demanded. + +The Guards' Club was established for the three regiments of Foot +Guards, and was conducted upon a military system. Billiards and low +whist were the only games indulged in. The dinner was, perhaps, better +than at most clubs, and considerably cheaper. I had the honour of +being a member for several years, during which time I have nothing to +remember but the most agreeable incidents. Arthur's and Graham's were +less aristocratic than those I have mentioned; it was at the latter, +thirty years ago, that a most painful circumstance took place. A +nobleman of the highest position and influence in society was detected +in cheating at cards, and after a trial, which did not terminate in his +favour, he died of a broken heart. + +Upon one occasion, some gentlemen of both White's and Brookes' had the +honour to dine with the Prince Regent, and during the conversation, the +Prince inquired what sort of dinners they got at their clubs; upon +which, Sir Thomas Stepney, one of the guests, observed that their +dinners were always the same, "the eternal joints, or beefsteaks, the +boiled fowl with oyster sauce, and an apple tart--this is what we have, +sir, at our clubs, and very monotonous fare it is." The Prince, +without further remark, rang the bell for his cook, Wattier, and, in +the presence of those who dined at the Royal table, asked him whether +he would take a house and organize a dinner club. Wattier assented, +and named Madison, the Prince's page, manager, and Labourie, the cook, +from the Royal kitchen. The club flourished only a few years, owing to +the high play that was carried on there. The Duke of York patronized +it, and was a member. I was a member in 1816, and frequently saw his +Royal Highness there. The dinners were exquisite; the best Parisian +cooks could not beat Labourie. The favourite game played there was +macao. Upon one occasion, Jack Bouvrie, brother of Lady Heytesbury, +was losing large sums, and became very irritable; Raikes, with bad +taste, laughed at Bouverie, and attempted to amuse us with some of his +stale jokes; upon which, Bouverie threw his play-bowl, with the few +counters it contained, at Raikes's head; unfortunately it struck him, +and made the City dandy angry, but no serious results followed this +open insult. + + + + +REMARKABLE CHARACTERS OF LONDON ABOUT THE YEARS 1814, 1815, 1816 + + +It appears to be a law of natural history that every generation +produces and throws out from the mob of society a few conspicuous men, +that pass under the general appellation of "men about town." Michael +Angelo Taylor was one of those remarkable individuals whom everyone was +glad to know; and those who had not that privilege were ever talking +about him, although he was considered by many a bit of a bore. Michael +Angelo was a Member of Parliament for many years, and generally sat in +one of the most important committees of the House of Commons; for he +was a man of authority and an attractive speaker. In appearance he was +one of that sort of persons whom you could not pass in the streets +without exclaiming, "Who can that be?" His face blushed with port +wine, the purple tints of which, by contrast, caused his white hair to +glitter with silvery brightness; he wore leather breeches, top boots, +blue coat, white waistcoat, and an unstarched and exquisitely white +neckcloth, the whole surmounted by a very broad-brimmed beaver;--such +was the dress of the universally known Michael Angelo Taylor. If you +met him in society, or at the clubs, he was never known to salute you +but with the invariable phrase, "What news have you?" Upon one +occasion, riding through St. James's Park, he met the great Minister, +Mr. Pitt, coming from Wimbledon, where he resided. He asked Mr. Pitt +the usual question, upon which the Premier replied, "I have not yet +seen the morning papers." + +"Oh, that won't do, Mr. Pitt. I am Sure that you know something, and +will not tell me." Mr. Pitt good-humouredly replied: "Well, then, I am +going to a Cabinet Council, and I will consult my colleagues whether I +can divulge State secrets to you or not." Upon another occasion, on +entering Boodle's, of which he was a member, he observed the celebrated +Lord Westmoreland at table, where the noble lord was doing justice to a +roast fowl. Taylor, of course, asked him the news of the day, and Lord +Westmoreland coolly told the little newsmonger to go into the other +room and leave him to finish his dinner, promising to join him after he +had done. The noble Lord kept his word, and the first thing he heard +from Mr. Taylor was, "Well, my lord, what news? what had you for +dinner?" + +His lordship replied, "A Welsh leg of mutton." "What then--what then?" +"Don't you think a leg of mutton enough for any man?" "Yes, my lord, +but you did not eat it all." "Yes, Taylor, I did." "Well, I think you +have placed the leg of mutton in some mysterious place, for I see no +trace of it in your lean person." + +Lord Westmoreland was remarkable for an appetite which made nothing of +a respectable joint, or a couple of fowls. + +I know not whether Mr. Poole, the author of Paul Pry, had Michael +Angelo in his head when he wrote that well-known comedy; but certainly +he might have sat for a character whose intrusive and inquisitive +habits were so notorious, that people on seeing him approach always +prepared for a string of almost impertinent interrogations. + +Another remarkable man about town was Colonel Cooke, commonly called +Kangaroo Cooke, who was for many years the private aide-de-camp and +secretary of H. R. H. the Duke of York. He was the brother of +General Sir George Cooke and of the beautiful Countess of Cardigan, +mother of the gallant Lord Cardigan, and the Ladies Howe, Baring, and +Lucan. During his career he had been employed in diplomatic +negotiations with the French, previous to the peace of Paris. He was +in the best society, and always attracted attention by his dandified +mode of dress. + +Colonel Armstrong, another pet of the Duke of York, was known, when in +the Coldstream Guards, to be a thorough hard-working soldier, and his +non-commissioned officers were so perfect, that nearly all the +adjutants of the different regiments of the line were educated by him. +He was a strict disciplinarian, but strongly opposed to corporal +punishment, and used to boast that during the whole time that he +commanded the regiment only two men had been flogged. + +Colonel Mackinnon, commonly called "Dan," was an exceedingly well-made +man, and remarkable for his physical powers in running, jumping, +climbing, and such bodily exercises as demanded agility and muscular +strength. He used to amuse his friends by creeping over the furniture +of a room like a monkey. It was very common for his companions to make +bets with him: for example, that he would not be able to climb up the +ceiling of a room, or scramble over a certain house-top. Grimaldi, the +famous clown, used to say, "Colonel Mackinnon has only to put on the +motley costume, and he would totally eclipse me." + +Mackinnon was famous for practical jokes; which were, however, always +played in a gentlemanly way. Before landing at St. Andero's, with some +other officers who had been on leave in England, he agreed to personate +the Duke of York, and make the Spaniards believe that his Royal +Highness was amongst them. On nearing the shore, a royal standard was +hoisted at the masthead, and Mackinnon disembarked, wearing the star of +his shako on his left breast, and accompanied by his friends, who +agreed to play the part of aides-de-camp to royalty. The Spanish +authorities were soon informed of the arrival of the Royal +Commander-in-Chief of the British army; so they received Mackinnon with +the usual pomp and circumstance attending such occasions. The mayor of +the place, in honour of the illustrious arrival, gave a grand banquet, +which terminated with the appearance of a huge bowl of punch. Whereupon +Dan, thinking that the joke had gone far enough, suddenly dived his +head into the porcelain vase, and threw his heels into the air. The +surprise and indignation of the solemn Spaniards was such, that they +made a most intemperate report of the hoax that had been played on them +to Lord Wellington; Dan, however, was ultimately forgiven, after a +severe reprimand. + +Another of his freaks very nearly brought him to a court-martial. Lord +Wellington was curious about visiting a convent near Lisbon, and the +lady abbess made no difficulty; Mackinnon, hearing this, contrived to +get clandestinely within the sacred walls, and it was generally +supposed that it was neither his first nor his second visit. At all +events, when Lord Wellington arrived, Dan Mackinnon was to be seen +among the nuns, dressed out in their sacred costume, with his head and +whiskers shaved, and as he possessed good features, he was declared to +be one of the best-looking amongst those chaste dames. It was supposed +that this adventure, which was known to Lord Byron, suggested a similar +episode in Don Juan, the scene being laid in the East. I might say +more about Dan's adventures in the convent, but have no wish to be +scandalous. + +Another dandy of the day was Sir Lumley Skeffington, who used to paint +his face, so that he looked like a French toy; he dressed a la +Robespierre, and practised other follies, although the consummate old +fop was a man of literary attainments, and a great admirer and patron +of the drama. Skeffington was remarkable for his politeness and courtly +manners; in fact, he was invited everywhere, and was very popular with +the ladies. You always knew of his approach by an avant-courier of +sweet smells; and when he advanced a little nearer, you might suppose +yourself in the atmosphere of a perfumer's shop. He is thus +immortalized by Byron, in the English Bards and Scotch Reviewers, +alluding to the play written by Skeffington, The Sleeping Beauty:-- + + "In grim array though Lewis' spectres rise, + Still Skeffington and Goose divide the prize: + And sure great Skeffington must claim our praise, + For skirtless coats and skeletons of plays + Renowned alike; whose genius ne'er confines + Her flight to garnish Greenwood's gay designs, + Nor sleeps with 'sleeping beauties' but anon + In five facetious acts comes thundering on, + While poor John Bull, bewildered with the scene, + Stares, wondering what the devil it can mean; + But as some hands applaud--a venal few-- + Rather than sleep, John Bull applauds it too." + +Long Wellesley Pole was a fashionable who distinguished himself by +giving sumptuous dinners at Wanstead, where he owned one of the finest +mansions in England. He used to ask his friends to dine with him after +the opera at midnight; the drive from London being considered +appetisant. Every luxury that money could command was placed before +his guests at this unusual hour of the night. He married Miss Tylney +Pole, an heiress of fifty thousand a-year, yet died quite a beggar: in +fact, he would have starved, had it not been for the charity of his +cousin, the present Duke of Wellington, who allowed him three hundred +a-year. + + + + +THE GUARDS MARCHING FROM ENGHIEN ON THE 15TH OF JUNE + + +Two battalions of my regiment had started from Brussels; the other (the +2nd), to which I belonged, remained in London, and I saw no prospect of +taking part in the great events which were about to take place on the +Continent. Early in June I had the honour of dining with Colonel +Darling, the deputy adjutant-general, and I was there introduced to Sir +Thomas Picton, as a countryman and neighbour of his brother, Mr. +Turbeville, of Evenney Abbey, in Glamorganshire. He was very gracious, +and, on his two aides-de-camp--Major Tyler and my friend Chambers, of +the Guards--lamenting that I was obliged to remain at home, Sir Thomas +said, "Is the lad really anxious to go out?" Chambers answered that it +was the height of my ambition. Sir Thomas inquired if all the +appointments to his staff were filled up; and then added, with a grim +smile, "If Tyler is killed, which is not at all unlikely, I do not know +why I should not take my young countryman: he may go over with me if he +can get leave." I was overjoyed at this, and, after thanking the +General a thousand times, made my bow and retired. + +I was much elated at the thoughts of being Picton's aide-de-camp, +though that somewhat remote contingency depended upon my friends Tyler, +or Chambers, or others, meeting with an untimely end; but at eighteen +on ne doute de rien. So I set about thinking how I should manage to get +my outfit, in order to appear at Brussels in a manner worthy of the +aide-de-camp of the great General. As my funds were at a low ebb, I +went to Cox and Greenwood's, those staunch friends of the hard-up +soldier. Sailors may talk of the "little cherub that sits up aloft," +but commend me for liberality, kindness, and generosity, to my old +friends in Craig's Court. I there obtained 200£., which I took with me +to a gambling-house in St. James' Square, where I managed, by some +wonderful accident, to win 600£.; and, having thus obtained the sinews +of war, I made numerous purchases, amongst others two first-rate horses +at Tattersall's for a high figure, which were embarked for Ostend, +along with my groom. I had not got leave; but I thought I should get +back, after the great battle that appeared imminent, in time to mount +guard at St. James's. On a Saturday I accompanied Chambers in his +carriage to Ramsgate, where Sir Thomas Picton and Tyler had already +arrived; we remained there for the Sunday, and embarked on Monday in a +vessel which had been hired for the General and suite. On the same day +we arrived at Ostend, and put up at an hotel in the square; where I was +surprised to hear the General, in excellent French, get up a flirtation +with our very pretty waiting-maid. + +Sir Thomas Picton was a stern-looking, strong-built man, about the +middle height, and considered very like the Hetman Platoff. He +generally wore a blue frock-coat, very tightly buttoned up to the +throat; a very large black silk neckcloth, showing little or no +shirt-collar; dark trousers, boots, and a round hat: it was in this +very dress that he was attired at Quatre Bras, as he had hurried off to +the scene of action before his uniform arrived. After sleeping at +Ostend, the General and Tyler went the next morning to Ghent, and on +Thursday to Brussels. I proceeded by boat to Ghent, and, without +stopping, hired a carriage, and arrived in time to order rooms for Sir +Thomas at the Hotel d'Angleterre, Rue de la Madeleine, at Brussels: our +horses followed us. + +While we were at breakfast, Colonel Canning came to inform the General +that the Duke of Wellington wished to see him immediately. Sir Thomas +lost not a moment in obeying the order of his chief, leaving the +breakfast-table and proceeding to the park, where Wellington was +walking with Fitzroy Somerset and the Duke of Richmond. Picton's +manner was always more familiar than the Duke liked in his lieutenants, +and on this occasion he approached him in a careless sort of way, just +as he might have met an equal. The Duke bowed coldly to him, and said, +"I am glad you are come, Sir Thomas; the sooner you get on horseback +the better; no time is to be lost. You will take the command of the +troops in advance. The Prince of Orange knows by this time that you +will go to his assistance." Picton appeared not to like the Duke's +manner; for, when he bowed and left, he muttered a few words which +convinced those who were with him that he was not much pleased with his +interview. + + + + +QUATRE BRAS + + +I got upon the best of my two horses, and followed Sir Thomas Picton +and his staff to Quatre Bras at full speed. His division was already +engaged in supporting the Prince of Orange, and had deployed itself in +two lines in front of the road to Sombref when he arrived. Sir Thomas +immediately took the command. Shortly afterwards, Kempt's and Pack's +brigades arrived by the Brussels road, and part of Alten's division by +the Nivelles road. + +Ney was very strong in cavalry, and our men were constantly formed into +squares to receive them. The famous Kellerman, the hero of Marengo, +tried a last charge, and was very nearly being taken or killed, as his +horse was shot under him when very near us. Wellington at last took +the offensive;--a charge was made against the French, which succeeded, +and we remained masters of the field. I acted as a mere spectator, and +got, on one occasion, just within twenty or thirty yards of some of the +cuirassiers; but my horse was too quick for them. + +On the 17th, Wellington retreated upon Waterloo, about eleven o'clock. +The infantry were masked by the cavalry in two lines, parallel to the +Namur road. Our cavalry retired on the approach of the French cavalry, +in three columns, on the Brussels road. A torrent of rain fell, upon +the Emperor's ordering the heavy cavalry to charge us; while the fire +of sixty or eighty pieces of cannon showed that we had chosen our +position at Waterloo. Chambers said to me, "Now, Gronow, the loss has +been very severe in the Guards, and I think you ought to go and see +whether you are wanted; for, as you have really nothing to do with +Picton, you had better join your regiment, or you may get into a +scrape." Taking his advice, I rode off to where the Guards were +stationed; the officers--amongst whom I remember Colonel Thomas and +Brigade-Major Miller--expressed their astonishment and amazement on +seeing me, and exclaimed, "What the deuce brought you here? Why are +you not with your battalion in London? Get off your horse, and explain +how you came here!" + +Things were beginning to look a little awkward, when Gunthorpe, the +adjutant, a great friend of mine, took my part and said, "As he is +here, let us make the most of him; there's plenty of work for everyone. +Come, Gronow, you shall go with the Hon. Captain Clements and a +detachment to the village of Waterloo, to take charge of the French +prisoners." I said, "What the deuce shall I do with my horse?" Upon +which the Hon. Captain Stopford, aide-de-camp to Sir John Byng, +volunteered to buy him. Having thus once more become a foot soldier, I +started according to orders, and arrived at Waterloo. + + + + +GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE FIELD OF WATERLOO + + +The day on which the battle of Waterloo was fought seemed to have been +chosen by some providential accident for which human wisdom is unable +to account. On the morning of the 18th the sun shone most gloriously, +and so clear was the atmosphere that we could see the long, imposing +lines of the enemy most distinctly. Immediately in front of the +division to which I belonged, and, I should imagine, about half a mile +from us, were posted cavalry and artillery; and to the right and left +the French had already engaged us, attacking Huguemont and La Haye +Sainte. We heard incessantly the measured boom of artillery, +accompanied by the incessant rattling echoes of musketry. + +The whole of the British infantry not actually engaged were at that +time formed into squares; and as you looked along our lines, it seemed +as if we formed a continuous wall of human beings. I recollect +distinctly being able to see Bonaparte and his staff; and some of my +brother officers using the glass, exclaimed, "There he is on his white +horse." I should not forget to state that when the enemy's artillery +began to play on us, we had orders to lie down, when we could hear the +shot and shell whistling around us, killing and wounding great numbers; +then again we were ordered on our knees to receive cavalry. The French +artillery--which consisted of three hundred guns, though we did not +muster more than half that number--committed terrible havoc during the +early part of the battle, whilst we were acting on the defensive. + + + + +THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON IN OUR SQUARE + + +About four P.M. the enemy's artillery in front of us ceased firing all +of a sudden, and we saw large masses of cavalry advance: not a man +present who survived could have forgotten in after life the awful +grandeur of that charge. You discovered at a distance what appeared to +be an overwhelming, long moving line, which, ever advancing, glittered +like a stormy wave of the sea when it catches the sunlight. On they +came until they got near enough, whilst the very earth seemed to +vibrate beneath the thundering tramp of the mounted host. One might +suppose that nothing could have resisted the shock of this terrible +moving mass. They were the famous cuirassiers, almost all old soldiers, +who had distinguished themselves on most of the battlefields of Europe. +In an almost incredibly short period they were within twenty yards of +us, shouting "Vive l'Empereur!" The word of command, "Prepare to +receive cavalry," had been given, every man in the front ranks knelt, +and a wall bristling with steel, held together by steady hands, +presented itself to the infuriated cuirassiers. + +I should observe that just before this charge the duke entered by one +of the angles of the square, accompanied only by one aide-de-camp; all +the rest of his staff being either killed or wounded. Our +commander-in-chief, as far as I could judge, appeared perfectly +composed; but looked very thoughtful and pale. He was dressed in a +grey great-coat with a cape, white cravat, leather pantaloons, Hessian +boots, and a large cocked hat a la Russe. + +The charge of the French cavalry was gallantly executed; but our +well-directed fire brought men and horses down, and ere long the utmost +confusion arose in their ranks. The officers were exceedingly brave, +and by their gestures and fearless bearing did all in their power to +encourage their men to form again and renew the attack. The duke sat +unmoved, mounted on his favourite charger. I recollect his asking the +Hon. Lieut.-Colonel Stanhope what o'clock it was, upon which Stanhope +took out his watch, and said it was twenty minutes past four. The Duke +replied, "The battle is mine; and if the Prussians arrive soon, there +will be an end of the war." + + + + +THE FRENCH CAVALRY CHARGING THE BRUNSWICKERS + + +Soon after the cuirassiers had retired, we observed to our right the +red hussars of the Garde Imperiale charging a square of Brunswick +riflemen, who were about fifty yards from us. This charge was +brilliantly executed, but the well-sustained fire from the square +baffled the enemy, who were obliged to retire after suffering a severe +loss in killed and wounded. The ground was completely covered with +those brave men, who lay in various positions, mutilated in every +conceivable way. Among the fallen we perceived the gallant colonel of +the hussars lying under his horse, which had been killed, All of a +sudden two riflemen of the Brunswickers left their battalion, and after +taking from their helpless victim his purse, watch, and other articles +of value, they deliberately put the colonel's pistols to the poor +fellow's head and blew out his brains. "Shame! shame!" was heard from +our ranks, and a feeling of indignation ran through the whole line; but +the deed was done: this brave soldier lay a lifeless corpse in sight of +his cruel foes, whose only excuse perhaps was that their sovereign, the +Duke of Brunswick, had been killed two days before by the French. + +Again and again various cavalry regiments, heavy dragoons, lancers, +hussars, carabineers of the Guard, endeavoured to break our walls of +steel. The enemy's cavalry had to advance over ground which was so +heavy that they could not reach us except at a trot; they therefore +came upon us in a much more compact mass than they probably would have +done if the ground had been more favourable. When they got within ten +or fifteen yards they discharged their carbines, to the cry of "Vive l' +Empereur!" their fire produced little effect, as that of cavalry +generally does. Our men had orders not to fire unless they could do so +on a near mass; the object being to economize our ammunition, and not +to waste it on scattered soldiers. The result was, that when the +cavalry had discharged their carbines, and were still far off, we +occasionally stood face to face, looking at each other inactively, not +knowing what the next move might be. The lancers were particularly +troublesome, and approached us with the utmost daring. On one occasion +I remember, the enemy's artillery having made a gap in the square, the +lancers were evidently waiting to avail themselves of it, to rush among +us, when Colonel Staples at once observing their intention, with the +utmost promptness filled up the gap, and thus again completed our +impregnable steel wall; but in this act he fell mortally wounded. The +cavalry seeing this, made no attempt to carry out their original +intentions, and observing that we had entirely regained our square, +confined themselves to hovering round us. I must not forget to mention +that the lancers in particular never failed to despatch our wounded +whenever they had an opportunity of doing so. + +When we received cavalry, the order was to fire low; so that on the +first discharge of musketry the ground was strewed with the fallen +horses and their riders, which impeded the advance of those behind them +and broke the shock of the charge. It was pitiable to witness the +agony of the poor horses, who really seemed conscious of the dangers +that surrounded them: we often saw a poor wounded animal raise its +head, as if looking for its rider to afford him aid. There is nothing +perhaps amongst the episodes of a great battle more striking than the +debris of a cavalry charge, where men and horses are seen scattered and +wounded on the ground in every variety of painful attitude. Many a time +the heart sickened at the moaning tones of agony which came from man +and scarcely less intelligent horse, as they lay in fearful agony upon +the field of battle. + + + + +THE LAST CHARGE AT WATERLOO + + +It was about five o'clock on that memorable day, that we suddenly +received orders to retire behind an elevation in our rear. The enemy's +artillery had come up en masse within a hundred yards of us. By the +time they began to discharge their guns, however, we were lying down +behind the rising ground, and protected by the ridge before referred +to. The enemy's cavalry was in the rear of their artillery, in order +to be ready to protect it if attacked; but no attempt was made on our +part to do so. After they had pounded away at us for about half an +hour, they deployed, and up came the whole mass of the Imperial +infantry of the Guard, led on by the Emperor in person. We had now +before us probably about 20,000 of the best soldiers in France, the +heroes of many memorable victories; we saw the bearskin caps rising +higher and higher as they ascended the ridge of ground which separated +us, and advanced nearer and nearer to our lines. It was at this moment +the Duke of Wellington gave his famous order for our bayonet charge, as +he rode along the line: these are the precise words he made use +of--"Guards, get up and charge!" We were instantly on our legs, and +after so many hours of inaction and irritation at maintaining a purely +defensive attitude--all the time suffering the loss of comrades and +friends--the spirit which animated officers and men may easily be +imagined. After firing a volley as soon as the enemy were within shot, +we rushed on with fixed bayonets, and that hearty hurrah peculiar to +British soldiers. + +It appeared that our men, deliberately and with calculation, singled +out their victims; for as they came upon the Imperial Guard our line +broke, and the fighting became irregular. The impetuosity of our men +seemed almost to paralyze their enemies: I witnessed several of the +Imperial Guard who were run through the body apparently without any +resistance on their parts. I observed a big Welshman of the name of +Hughes, who was six feet seven inches in height, run through with his +bayonet, and knock down with the butt end of his firelock, I should +think a dozen at least of his opponents. This terrible contest did not +last more than ten minutes, for the Imperial Guard was soon in full +retreat, leaving all their guns and many prisoners in our hands. The +famous General Cambronne was taken prisoner fighting hand to hand with +the gallant Sir Colin Halkett, who was shortly after shot through the +cheeks by a grape-shot. Cambronne's supposed answer of "La Garde ne se +rend pas" was an invention of after-times, and he himself always denied +having used such an expression. + + + + +HUGUEMONT + + +Early on the morning after the battle of Waterloo, I visited Huguemont, +in order to witness with my own eyes the traces of one of the most +hotly-contested spots of the field of battle. I came first upon the +orchard, and there discovered heaps of dead men, in various uniforms: +those of the Guards in their usual red jackets, the German Legion in +green, and the French dressed in blue, mingled together. The dead and +the wounded positively covered the whole area of the orchard; not less +than two thousand men had there fallen. The apple-trees presented a +singular appearance; shattered branches were seen hanging about their +mother-trunks in such profusion that one might almost suppose the +stiff-growing and stunted tree had been converted into the willow: +every tree was riddled and smashed in a manner which told that the +showers of shot had been incessant. On this spot I lost some of my +dearest and bravest friends, and the country had to mourn many of its +most heroic sons slain here. + +I must observe that, according to the custom of commanding officers, +whose business it is after a great battle to report to the +Commander-in-Chief, the muster-roll of fame always closes before the +rank of captain. It has always appeared to me a great injustice that +there should ever be any limit to the roll of gallantry of either +officers or men. If a captain, lieutenant, an ensign, a sergeant, or a +private, has distinguished himself for his bravery, his intelligence, +or both, their deeds ought to be reported, in order that the sovereign +and nation should know who really fight the great battles of England. +Of the class of officers and men to which I have referred, there were +many of even superior rank who were omitted to be mentioned in the +public despatches. + +Thus, for example, to the individual courage of Lord Saltoun and +Charley Ellis, who commanded the light companies, was mainly owing our +success at Huguemont. The same may be said of Needham, Percival, +Erskine, Grant, Vyner, Buckley, Master, and young Algernon Greville, +who at that time could not have been more than seventeen years old. +Excepting Percival, whose jaws were torn away by a grape-shot, everyone +of these heroes miraculously escaped. + +I do not wish, in making these observations, to detract from the +bravery and skill of officers whose names have already been mentioned +in official despatches, but I think it only just that the services of +those I have particularized should not be forgotten by one of their +companions in arms. + + + + +BYNG WITH HIS BRIGADE AT WATERLOO + + +No individual officer more distinguished himself than did General Byng +at the battle of Waterloo. In the early part of the day he was seen at +Huguemont, leading his men in the thick of the fight; later he was with +the battalion in square, where his presence animated to the utmost +enthusiasm both officers and men. It is difficult to imagine how this +courageous man passed through such innumerable dangers from shot and +shell without receiving a single wound. I must also mention some other +instances of courage and devotion in officers belonging to this +brigade; for instance, it was Colonel MacDonell, a man of colossal +stature, with Hesketh, Bowes, Tom Sowerby, and Hugh Seymour, who +commanded from the inside the Chateau of Huguemont. When the French +had taken possession of the orchard, they made a rush at the principal +door of the chateau, which had been turned into a fortress. MacDonell +and the above officers placed themselves, accompanied by some of their +men, behind the portal and prevented the French from entering. Amongst +other officers of that brigade who were most conspicuous for bravery, I +would record the names of Montague, the "vigorous Gooch," as he was +called, and the well-known Jack Standen. + + + + +THE LATE DUKE OF RICHMOND + + +One of the most intimate friends of the Duke of Wellington was the Earl +of March, afterwards Duke of Richmond. He was a genuine hard-working +soldier, a man of extraordinary courage, and one who was ever found +ready to gain laurels amidst the greatest dangers. When the 7th +Fusiliers crossed the Bidassoa, the late duke left the staff and joined +the regiment in which he had a company. At Orthes, in the thick of the +fight, he received a shot which passed through his lungs; from this +severe wound he recovered sufficiently to be able to join the Duke of +Wellington, to whom he was exceedingly useful at the battle of +Waterloo. On his return to England, he united himself to the most +remarkably beautiful girl of the day, the eldest daughter of Lord +Anglesea, and whose mother was the lovely Duchess of Argyle. + + + + +THE UNFORTUNATE CHARGE OF THE HOUSEHOLD BRIGADE + + +When Lord Uxbridge gave orders to Sir W. Ponsonby and Lord Edward +Somerset to charge the enemy, our cavalry advanced with the greatest +bravery, cut through everything in their way, and gallantly attacked +whole regiments of infantry; but eventually they came upon a masked +battery of twenty guns, which carried death and destruction through our +ranks, and our poor fellows were obliged to give way. The French +cavalry followed on their retreat, when, perhaps, the severest +hand-to-hand cavalry fighting took place within the memory of man. The +Duke of Wellington was perfectly furious that this arm had been engaged +without his orders, and lost not a moment in sending them to the rear, +where they remained during the rest of the day. This disaster gave the +French cavalry an opportunity of annoying and insulting us, and +compelled the artillerymen to seek shelter in our squares; and if the +French had been provided with tackle, or harness of any description, +our guns would have been taken. It is, therefore, not to be wondered +at that the Duke should have expressed himself in no measured terms +about the cavalry movements referred to. I recollect that, when his +grace was in our square, our soldiers were so mortified at seeing the +French deliberately walking their horses between our regiment and those +regiments to our right and left, that they shouted, "Where are our +cavalry? why don't they come and pitch into those French fellows?" + + + + +THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON'S OPINION OF THE FRENCH CAVALRY + + +A day or two after our arrival in Paris from Waterloo, Colonel Felton +Hervey having entered the dining-room with the despatches which had +come from London, the Duke asked, "What news have you, Hervey?" upon +which, Colonel Felton Hervey answered, "I observe by the Gazette that +the Prince Regent has made himself Captain-General of the Life Guards +and Blues, for their brilliant conduct at Waterloo." + +"Ah!" replied the Duke, "his Royal Highness is our Sovereign, and can +do what he pleases; but this I will say, the cavalry of other European +armies have won victories for their generals, but mine have invariably +got me into scrapes. It is true that they have always fought gallantly +and bravely, and have generally got themselves out of their +difficulties by sheer pluck." + +The justice of this observation has since been confirmed by the charge +at Balaklava, where our cavalry undauntedly rushed into the face of +death under the command of that intrepid officer Lord Cardigan. + + + + +MARSHAL EXCELMANN'S OPINION OF THE BRITISH CAVALRY + + +Experience has taught me that there is nothing more valuable than the +opinions of intelligent foreigners on the military and naval +excellences, and the failures, of our united service. Marshal +Excelmann's opinion about the British cavalry struck me as remarkably +instructive: he used to say, "Your horses are the finest in the world, +and your men ride better than any Continental soldiers; with such +materials, the English cavalry ought to have done more than has ever +been accomplished by them on the field of battle. The great deficiency +is in your officers, who have nothing to recommend them but their dash +and sitting well in their saddles; indeed, as far as my experience +goes, your English generals have never understood the use of cavalry: +they have undoubtedly frequently misapplied that important arm of a +grand army, and have never, up to the battle of Waterloo, employed the +mounted soldier at the proper time and in the proper place. The +British cavalry officer seems to be impressed with the conviction that +he can dash and ride over everything; as if the art of war were +precisely the same as that of fox-hunting. I need not remind you of +the charge of your two heavy brigades at Waterloo: this charge was +utterly useless, and all the world knows they came upon a masked +battery, which obliged a retreat, and entirely disconcerted +Wellington's plans during the rest of the day." + +"Permit me," he added, "to point out a gross error as regards the dress +of your cavalry. I have seen prisoners so tightly habited that it was +impossible for them to use their sabres with facility." The French +Marshal concluded by observing--"I should wish nothing better than such +material as your men and horses are made of; since with generals who +wield cavalry, and officers who are thoroughly acquainted with that +duty in the field, I do not hesitate to say I might gain a battle." + +Such was the opinion of a man of cool judgment, and one of the most +experienced cavalry officers of the day. + + + + +APPEARANCE OF PARIS WHEN THE ALLIES ENTERED + + +I propose giving my own impression of the aspect of Paris and its +vicinity when our regiment entered that city on the 25th of June, 1815. +I recollect we marched from the plain of St. Denis, my battalion being +about five hundred strong, the survivors of the heroic fight of the +18th of June. We approached near enough to be within fire of the +batteries of Montmartre, and bivouacked for three weeks in the Bois de +Boulogne. That now beautiful garden was at the period to which I refer +a wild pathless wood, swampy, and entirely neglected. The Prussians, +who were in bivouac near us, amused themselves by doing as much damage +as they could, without any useful aim or object: they cut down the +finest trees, and set the wood on fire at several points. There were +about three thousand of the Guards then encamped in the wood, and I +should think about ten thousand Prussians. Our camp was not remarkable +for its courtesy towards them; in fact, our intercourse was confined to +the most ordinary demands of duty, as allies in an enemy's country. + +I believe I was one of the first of the British army who penetrated +into the heart of Paris after Waterloo. I entered by the Porte +Maillot, and passed the Arc de Triomphe, which was then building. In +those days the Champs Elysees only contained a few scattered houses, +and the roads and pathways were ancle deep in mud. The only attempt at +lighting was the suspension of a few lamps on cords, which crossed the +roads. Here I found the Scotch regiments bivouacking; their peculiar +uniform created a considerable sensation amongst the Parisian women, +who did not hesitate to declare that the want of culottes was most +indecent. I passed through the camp, and proceeded on towards the +gardens of the Tuilleries. This ancient palace of the Kings of France +presented, so far as the old front is concerned, the same aspect that +it does at the present day; but there were then no flower-gardens, +although the same stately rows of trees which now ornament the grounds +were then in their midsummer verdure. + +Being in uniform, I created an immense amount of curiosity amongst the +Parisians; who, by the way, I fancied regarded me with no loving looks. +The first house I entered was a cafe in the garden of the Tuilleries, +called Legac's. I there met a man who told me he was by descent an +Englishman; though he had been born in Paris, and had really never +quitted France. He approached me, saying, "Sir, I am delighted to see +an English officer in Paris, and you are the first I have yet met +with." He talked about the battle of Waterloo, and gave me some useful +directions concerning restaurants and cafes. Along the Boulevards were +handsome houses, isolated, with gardens interspersed, and the roads +were bordered on both sides with stately, spreading trees, some of them +probably a hundred years old. There was but an imperfect pavement, the +stepping-stones of which were adapted to display the Parisian female +ankle and boot in all their calculated coquetry; and the road showed +nothing but mother earth, in the middle of which a dirty gutter served +to convey the impurities of the city to the river. The people in the +streets appeared sulky and stupefied: here and there I noticed groups +of the higher classes evidently discussing the events of the moment. + +How strange humanity would look in our day in the costume of the first +empire. The ladies wore very scanty and short skirts, which left +little or no waist; their bonnets were of exaggerated proportions, and +protruded at least a foot from their faces, and they generally carried +a fan. The men wore blue or black coats, which were baggily made, and +reached down to their ankles; their hats were enormously large, and +spread out at the top. + +I dined the first day of my entrance into Paris at the Cafe Anglais, on +the Boulevard des Italiens, where I found to my surprise several of my +brother officers. I recollect the charge for the dinner was about +one-third what it would be at the present day. I had a potage, +fish--anything but fresh, and, according to English predilections and +taste, of course I ordered a beef-steak and pommes de terre. The wine, +I thought, was sour. The dinner cost about two francs. The theatres at +this time, as may easily be imagined, were not very well attended. I +recollect going to the Francais, where I saw for the first time the +famous Talma. There was but a scanty audience; in fact all the best +places in the house were empty. + +It may easily be imagined that, at a moment like this, most of those +who had a stake in the country were pondering over the great and real +drama that was then taking place. Napoleon had fled to Rochfort; the +wreck of his army had retreated beyond the Loire; no list of killed and +wounded had appeared; and, strange to say, the official journal of +Paris had made out that the great Imperial army at Waterloo had gained +a victory. There were, nevertheless, hundreds of people in Paris who +knew to the contrary, and many were already aware that they had lost +relations and friends in the great battle. + +Louis XVIII. arrived, as well as I can remember, at the Tuileries on +the 26th of July, 1815, and his reception by the Parisians was a +singular illustration of the versatile character of the French nation, +and the sudden and often inexplicable changes which take place in the +feeling of the populace. When the Bourbon, in his old lumbering state +carriage, drove down the Boulevards, accompanied by the Garde du Corps, +the people in the streets and at the windows displayed the wildest joy, +enthusiastically shouting "Vive le Roi!" amidst the waving of hats and +handkerchiefs, while white sheets or white rags were made to do the +duty of a Bourbon banner. The king was dressed in a blue coat with a +red collar, and wore also a white waistcoat and a cocked hat with a +white cockade in it. His portly and good-natured appearance seemed to +be appreciated by the crowd, whom he saluted with a benevolent smile. +I should here mention that two great devotees of the Church sat +opposite to the King on this memorable occasion. The cortege proceeded +slowly down the Rue de la Paix until the Tuileries was reached, where a +company of the Guards, together with a certain number of the Garde +Nationale of Paris, were stationed. + +It fell to my lot to be on duty the day after, when the Duke of +Wellington and Lord Castlereagh arrived to pay their respects to the +restored monarch. I happened to be in the Salle des Marechaux when +these illustrious personages passed through that magnificent apartment. +The respect paid to the Duke of Wellington on this occasion may be +easily imagined, from the fact that a number of ladies of the highest +rank, and of course partisans of the legitimate dynasty, formed an +avenue through which the hero of Waterloo passed, exchanging with them +courteous recognitions. The King was waiting in the grand reception +apartment to receive the great British captain. The interview, I have +every reason to believe, was not confined to the courtesies of the +palace. + +The position of the Duke was a difficult one. In the first place, he +had to curb the vindictive vandalism of Blucher and his army, who would +have levelled the city of Paris to the ground, if they could have done +so; on the other hand, he had to practise a considerable amount of +diplomacy towards the newly-restored King. At the same time the Duke's +powers from his own Government were necessarily limited. A spirit of +vindictiveness pervaded the restored Court against Napoleon and his +adherents, which the Duke constantly endeavoured to modify. I must not +forget to give an illustration of this state of feeling. It was +actually proposed by Talleyrand, Fouche, and some important +ecclesiastics of the ultra-royalist party, to arrest and shoot the +Emperor Napoleon, who was then at Rochfort: so anxious were they to +commit this criminal, inhuman, and cowardly act, on an illustrious +fallen enemy, who had made the arms of France glorious throughout +Europe, that they suggested to the Duke, who had the command of the old +wooden-armed semaphores, to employ the telegraph to order what I should +have designated by no other name than the assassination of the Caesar +of modern history. + + + + +MARSHAL NEY AND WELLINGTON + + +As an illustration of the false impressions which are always +disseminated concerning public men, I must record the following +fact:--The Duke of Wellington was accused of being implicated in the +military murder of Ney. Now, so far from this being the truth, I know +positively that the Duke of Wellington used every endeavour to prevent +this national disgrace; but the Church party, ever crafty and ever +ready to profit by the weakness and passions of humanity, supported the +King in his moments of excited revenge. It is a lamentable fact, but +no less historical truth, that the Roman Catholic Church has ever +sought to make the graves of its enemies the foundations of its power. +The Duke of Wellington was never able to approach the King or use his +influence to save Marshal Ney's life; but everything he could do was +done, in order to accomplish his benevolent views. I repeat, the +influence of the ultra-montane party triumphed over the Christian +humanity of the illustrious Duke. + + + + +THE PALAIS ROYAL AFTER THE RESTORATION + + +France has often been called the centre of European fashion and gaiety; +and the Palais Royal, at the period to which I refer, might be called +the very heart of French dissipation. It was a theatre in which all +the great actors of fashion of all nations met to play their parts: on +this spot were congregated daily an immense multitude, for no other +purpose than to watch the busy comedy of real life that animated the +corridors, gardens, and saloons of that vast building, which was +founded by Richelieu and Mazarin, and modified by Philippe Egalite. +Mingled together, and moving about the area of this oblong-square block +of buildings, might be seen, about seven o'clock P.M., a crowd of +English, Russian, Prussian, Austrian, and other officers of the Allied +armies, together with countless foreigners from all parts of the world. +Here, too, might have been seen the present King of Prussia, with his +father and brother, the late king, the Dukes of Nassau, Baden, and a +host of continental princes, who entered familiarly into the amusements +of ordinary mortals, dining incog. at the most renowned restaurants, +and flirting with painted female frailty. + +A description of one of the houses of the Palais Royal, will serve to +portray the whole of this French pandemonium. On the ground floor is a +jeweller's shop, where may be purchased diamonds, pearls, emeralds, and +every description of female ornament, such as only can be possessed by +those who have very large sums of money at their command. It was here +that the successful gambler often deposited a portion of his winnings, +and took away some costly article of jewellery, which he presented to +some female friend who had never appeared with him at the altar of +marriage. Beside this shop was a staircase, generally very dirty, which +communicated with the floors above. Immediately over the shop was a +cafe, at the counter of which presided a lady, generally of more than +ordinary female attractions, who was very much decolletee, and wore an +amount of jewellery which would have made the eye of an Israelite +twinkle with delight. And there la creme de la creme of male society +used to meet, sip their ice and drink their cup of mocha, whilst +holding long conversations, almost exclusively about gambling and women. + +Men's thoughts, in this region, seemed to centre night and day upon the +tapis vert, and at the entrance of this salon was that fatal chamber, +over which might have been written the famous line of Dante, "Voi che +entrate lasciate ogni speranza." The reader will at once understand +that I am referring to the gambling-house, the so-called "hell" of +modern society. In one room was the rouge et noir table, which, from +the hour of twelve in the morning, was surrounded by men in every stage +of the gambling malady. There was the young pigeon, who, on losing his +first feather, had experienced an exciting sensation which, if followed +by a bit of good luck, gave him a confidence that the parasites around +him, in order to flatter his vanity, would call pluck. There were +others in a more advanced stage of the fever, who had long since lost +the greater part of their incomes, having mortgaged their property, and +been in too frequent correspondence with the Jews. These men had not +got to the last stage of gambling despair, but they were so far +advanced on the road to perdition that their days were clouded by +perpetual anxiety, which reproduced itself in their very dreams. The +gambler who has thus far advanced in his career, lives in an inferno of +his own creation: the charms of society, the beauty of woman, the +attractions of the fine arts, and even the enjoyment of a good dinner, +are to him rather a source of irritation than delight. The confirmed +gamester is doing nothing less than perpetually digging a grave for his +own happiness. + +The third and most numerous group of men round the tapis vert consisted +of a class most of whom had already spent their fortunes, exhausted +their health, and lost their position in society, by the fatal and +demoralizing thirst for gold, which still fascinated them. These +became the hawks of the gambling table; their quick and wild-glancing +eyes were constantly looking out for suitable game during the day, and +leaving it where it might be bagged at night. Both at the rouge et +noir table and roulette the same sort of company might be met with. +These gambling-houses were the very fountains of immorality: they +gathered together, under the most seductive circumstances, the swindler +and the swindled. There were tables for all classes--the workman might +play with 20 sous, or the gentleman with 10,000 francs. The law did +not prevent any class from indulging in a vice that assisted to fill +the coffers of the municipality of Paris. + +The floor over the gambling-house was occupied by unmarried women. I +will not attempt to picture some of the saddest evils of the society of +large cities; but I may add that these Phrynes lived in a style of +splendour which can only be accounted for by the fact of their +participating in the easily-earned gains of the gambling-house regime. +Such was the state of the Palais Royal under Louis XVIII. and Charles +X.: the Palais Royal of the present day is simply a tame and +legitimately-commercial mart, compared with that of olden times. +Society has changed; Government no longer patronizes such nests of +immorality; and though vice may exist to the same extent, it assumes +another garb, and does not appear in the open streets, as at the period +to which I have referred. + +At that time, the Palais Royal was externally the only well-lighted +place in Paris. It was the rendezvous of all idlers, and especially of +that particular class of ladies who lay out their attractions for the +public at large. These were to be seen at all hours in full dress, +their bare necks ornamented with mock diamonds and pearls; and thus +decked out in all their finery, they paraded up and down, casting their +eyes significantly on every side. Some strange stories are told in +connection with the gambling houses of the Palais Royal. An officer of +the Grenadier Guards came to Paris on leave of absence, took apartments +here, and never left it until his time of absence had expired. On his +arrival in London one of his friends inquired whether this was true, to +which he replied, "Of course it is; for I found everything I wanted +there, both for body and mind." + + + + +THE ENGLISH IN PARIS AFTER THE RESTORATION OF THE BOURBONS + + +There is no more ordinary illusion belonging to humanity than that +which enables us to discover, in the fashions of the day, an elegance +and comeliness of dress which a few years after we ourselves regard as +odious caricatures of costume. Thousands of oddly-dressed English +flocked to Paris immediately after the war: I remember that the burden +of one of the popular songs of the day was, "All the world's in Paris;" +and our countrymen and women having so long been excluded from French +modes, had adopted fashions of their own quite as remarkable and +eccentric as those of the Parisians, and much less graceful. British +beauties were dressed in long, strait pelisses of various colours; the +body of the dress was never of the same colour as the skirt; and the +bonnet was of the bee-hive shape, and very small. The characteristic +of the dress of the gentleman was a coat of light blue, or +snuff-colour, With brass buttons, the tail reaching nearly to the +heels; a gigantic bunch of seals dangled from his fob, whilst his +pantaloons were short and tight at the knees; and a spacious waistcoat, +with a voluminous muslin cravat and a frilled shirt, completed the +toilette. The dress of the British military, in its stiff and formal +ugliness, was equally cumbrous and ludicrous. + +Lady Oxford--that beautiful and accomplished woman, who lived in her +hotel in the Rue de Clichy--gave charming soirees, at which were +gathered the elite of Paris society. Among these were Edward Montague, +Charles Standish, Hervey Aston, Arthur Upton, "Kangaroo" Cook, Benjamin +Constant, Dupin, Casimir Perier, as well as the chief Orleanists. On +one occasion, I recollect seeing there George Canning and the +celebrated Madame de Stael. Cornwall, the eldest son of the Bishop of +Worcester, had, from some unaccountable cause, a misunderstanding with +Madame de Stael, who appeared very excited, and said to Lady Oxford, in +a loud voice, "Notre ami, M. Cornewal, est grosso, rosso, e furioso." +It should be observed that the gentleman thus characterized was +red-haired, and hasty in temper. All who heard this denunciation were +astounded at the lady's manner, for she looked daggers at the object of +her sarcasm. + +Fox, the secretary of the embassy, was an excellent man, but odd, +indolent, and careless in the extreme; he was seldom seen in the +daytime, unless it was either at the embassy in a state of negligee, or +in bed. At night he used to go to the Salon des Etrangers; and, if he +possessed a Napoleon, it was sure to be thrown away at hazard, or rouge +et noir. On one occasion, however, fortune favoured him in a most +extraordinary manner. The late Henry Baring having recommended him to +take the dice-box, Fox replied, "I will do so for the last time, for +all my money is thrown away upon this infernal table." Fox staked all +he had in his pockets; he threw in eleven times, breaking the bank, and +taking home for his share 60,000 francs. After this, several days +passed without any tidings being heard of him; but upon my calling at +the embassy to get my passport vised, I went into his room, and saw it +filled with Cashmere shawls, silk, Chantilly veils, bonnets, gloves, +shoes, and other articles of ladies' dress. On my asking the purpose +of all this millinery, Fox replied, in a good-natured way, "Why, my +dear Gronow, it was the only means to prevent those rascals at the +salon winning back my money." + + + + +LES ANGLAISES POUR RIRE + + +An order had been given to the managers of all the theatres in Paris to +admit a certain number of soldiers of the army of occupation, free of +expense. It happened that a party of the Guards, composed of a +sergeant and a few men, went to the Theatre des Varietes on the +Boulevards, where one of the pieces, entitled Les Anglaises pour Rire, +was admirably acted by Potier and Brunet. In this piece Englishwomen +were represented in a very ridiculous light by those accomplished +performers. This gave great offence to our soldiers, and the sergeant +and his men determined to put a stop to the acting; accordingly they +stormed the stage, and laid violent hands upon the actors, eventually +driving them off. The police were called in, and foolishly wanted to +take our men to prison; but they soon found to their cost that they had +to deal with unmanageable opponents, for the whole posse of gendarmes +were charged and driven out of the theatre. A crowd assembled on the +Boulevards; which, however, soon dispersed when it became known that +English soldiers were determined, coute qu'il coute, to prevent their +countrywomen from being ridiculed. It must be remembered that the only +revenge which the Parisians were able to take upon the conquerors was +to ridicule them; and the English generally took it in good humour, and +laughed at the extravagant drollery of the burlesque. + +The English soldiers generally walked about Paris in parties of a +dozen, and were quiet and well-behaved. They usually gathered every +day on the Boulevard du Temple, where they were amused with the +mountebanks and jugglers there assembled. + +This part of Paris is now completely changed: but at the time I speak +of, it was an extensive open place, where every species of fun was +carried on, as at fairs: there were gambling, rope-dancing, wild +beasts, and shows; booths for the sale of cakes, gingerbread, fruit, +and lemonade; and every species of attraction that pleases the +multitude; but that space has now been built upon, and these sports +have all migrated to the barriers. + +During the time our troops remained, we had only one man found dead in +the streets: it was said that he had been murdered; but of that there +was considerable doubt, for no signs of violence were found. This was +strongly in contrast to what occurred to the Prussian soldiers. It was +asserted, and, indeed, proved beyond a doubt, that numbers of them were +assassinated; and in some parts of France it was not unusual to find in +the morning, in deep wells or cellars, several bodies of soldiers of +that nation who had been killed during the night; so strong was the +hatred borne against them by the French. + + + + +COACHING AND RACING IN 1815 + + +Stage-coaches, or four-in-hand teams, were introduced in Paris in 1815 +by Captain Bacon, of the 10th Hussars (afterwards a general in the +Portuguese service), Sir Charles Smith, Mr. Roles, the brewer, and +Arnold, of the 10th. They used to meet opposite Demidoff's house, +afterwards the Cafe de Paris, and drive to the Boulevard Beaumarchais, +and then back again, proceeding to the then unfinished Arc du Triomphe. +Crowds assembled to witness the departure of the teams; and it created +no little amusement to the Parisian to see perched upon Sir C. Smith's +coach one or two smartly-dressed ladies, who appeared quite at home. +Sir Charles was likewise a great supporter of the turf, and was the +first man who brought over from England thorough-bred horses. By his +indefatigable energy he contrived to get up very fair racing in the +neighbourhood of Valenciennes; his trainer at this time being Tom +Hurst, who is now, I believe, at Chantilly; and all the officers of our +several cavalry and infantry regiments contributed their efforts to +make these races respectable in the eyes of foreigners. Be this as it +may, they were superior to those in the Champs de Mars, though under +the patronage of the King. + +I shall not forget the first time I witnessed racing in Paris, for it +was more like a review of Gensdarmes and National Guards; the course +was kept by a forest of bayonets, while mounted police galloped after +the running horses, and, in some instances, reached the goal before +them. The Duc d' Angouleme, with the Duc de Guiche and the Prefet, were +present; but there was only one small stand, opposite to a sentry-box +where the judge was placed. The running, to say the least of it, was +ridiculous: horses and riders fell; and the fete, as it was called, +ended with a flourish of trumpets. Wonderful changes have taken place +since that time, and at the Bois de Boulogne and at Chantilly may be +seen running equal to that of our best races in England; and our +neighbours produce horses, bred in France, that can carry off some of +the great prizes in our own "Isthmian games." + + + + +PARISIAN CAFES IN 1815 + + +At the present day, Paris may be said to be a city of cafes and +restaurants. The railroads and steamboats enable the rich of every +quarter of the globe to reach the most attractive of all European +cities with comparative economy and facility. All foreigners arriving +in Paris seem by instinct to rush to the restaurateurs', where +strangers may be counted by tens of thousands. It is not surprising +that we find in every important street these gaudy modern triclinia, +which, I should observe, are as much frequented by a certain class of +French people as by foreigners, for Paris is proverbially fond of +dining out; in fact, the social intercourse may be said to take place +more frequently in the public cafe than under the domestic roof. + +In 1815, I need scarcely remark that the condition of the roads in +Europe, and the enormous expense of travelling, made a visit to Paris a +journey which could only be indulged in by a very limited and wealthy +class of strangers. Hotels and cafes were then neither so numerous nor +so splendid as at the present day: Meurice's Hotel was a very +insignificant establishment in the Rue de l'Echiquier; and in the Rue +de la Paix, at that time unfinished, there were but two or three +hotels, which would not be considered even second-rate at the present +time. The site of the Maison Dore, at the corner of the Rue Lafitte, +was then occupied by a shabby building which went by the name of the +Hotel d'Angleterre, and was kept by the popular and once beautiful +Madame Dunan. The most celebrated restaurant was that of Beauvilliers, +in the Rue de Richelieu; mirrors and a little gilding were the +decorative characteristics of this house; the cuisine was far superior +to that of any restaurateur of our day, and the wines were first-rate. +Beauvilliers was also celebrated for his supreme de volaille, and for +his cotelette a la Soubise. The company consisted of the most +distinguished men of Paris; here were to be seen Chateaubriand, Bailly +de Ferrette, the Dukes of Fitzjames, Rochefoucauld, and Grammont, and +many other remarkable personages. It was the custom to go to the +theatres after dinner, and then to the Salon des Etrangers, which was +the Parisian Crockford's. + +Another famous dining-house was the Rocher de Cancaille, in the Rue +Mandar, kept by Borel, formerly one of the cooks of Napoleon. Here the +cuisine was so refined that people were reported to have come over from +England expressly for the purpose of enjoying it: indeed, Borel once +showed me a list of his customers, amongst whom I found the names of +Robespierre, Charles James Fox, and the Duke of Bedford. In the Palais +Royal the still well-known Trois Freres Provenceaux was in vogue, and +frequented much by the French officers; being celebrated chiefly for +its wines and its Provence dishes: it was in the Palais Royal that +General Lannes, Junot, Murat, and other distinguished officers, used to +meet Bonaparte just before and during the Consulate; but the cafes, +with the exception of the Mille Colonnes, were not nearly so smartly +fitted-up as they now are. The Cafe Turc, on the Boulevard du Temple, +latterly visited chiefly by shopkeepers, was much frequented: smoking +was not allowed, and then, as now, ladies were seen here; more +especially when the theatres had closed. + + + + +REVIEW OF THE ALLIED ARMIES BY THE ALLIED SOVEREIGNS IN PARIS + + +In July, 1815, it was agreed by the Sovereigns of Russia, Austria, +Prussia, Bavaria, Wurtemberg, and a host of petty German Powers--who +had become wonderfully courageous and enthusiastically devoted to +England, a few hours after the Battle of Waterloo--that a grand review +should be held on the plains of St. Denis, where the whole of the +allied forces were to meet. Accordingly, at an early hour on a fine +summer morning, there were seen issuing from the various roads which +centre on the plains of St. Denis, numerous English, Russian, +Prussian, and Austrian regiments of horse and foot, in heavy marching +order, with their bands playing; and finally a mass of men, numbering +not less than 200,000, took up their positions on the wide-spreading +field. About twelve o'clock, the Duke of Wellington, +commander-in-chief of the allied army, approached, mounted on a +favourite charger; and, strange as it may appear, on his right was +observed a lady in a plain riding-habit, who was no other than Lady +Shelley, the wife of the late Sir John Shelley. Immediately behind the +Duke followed the Emperors of Austria, and Russia; the Kings of +Prussia, Holland, Bavaria, and Wurtemberg; several German princes, and +general officers; the whole forming one of the most illustrious and +numerous staffs ever brought together. The Duke of Wellington, thus +accompanied, took up his position, and began manoeuvering, with a +facility and confidence which elicited the admiration of all the +experienced soldiers around him. Being on duty near his grace, I had +an opportunity of hearing Prince Schwartzenberg say to the Duke, "You +are the only man who can so well play at this game." The review lasted +two hours; then the men marching home to their quarters, through a +crowd of spectators which included the whole population of Paris. The +most mournful silence was observed throughout on the part of the French. + + + + +CONDUCT OF THE RUSSIAN AND PRUSSIAN SOLDIERS DURING THE OCCUPATION OF +PARIS BY THE ALLIES + + +It is only just to say that the moderation shown by the British army, +from the Duke of Wellington down to the private soldier, during our +occupation of Paris, contrasted most favourably with that of the +Russian and Prussian military. Whilst we simply did our duty, and were +civil to all those with whom we came in contact, the Russians and +Prussians were frequently most insubordinate, and never lost an +opportunity of insulting a people whose armies had almost always +defeated them on the day of battle. I remember one particular +occasion, when the Emperor of Russia reviewed his Garde Imperiale, that +the Cossacks actually charged the crowd, and inflicted wounds on the +unarmed and inoffensive spectators. I recollect, too, a Prussian +regiment displaying its bravery in the Rue St. Honore on a number of +hackney coachmen; indeed, scarcely a day passed without outrages being +committed by the Russian and Prussian soldiers on the helpless +population of the lower orders. + + + + +THE BRITISH EMBASSY IN PARIS + + +England was represented at this period by Sir Charles Stuart, who was +one of the most popular ambassadors Great Britain ever sent to Paris. +He made himself acceptable to his countrymen, and paid as much +attention to individual interests as to the more weighty duties of +State. His attaches, as is always the case, took their tone and manner +from their chief, and were not only civil and agreeable to all those +who went to the Embassy, but knew everything and everybody, and were of +great use to the ambassador, keeping him well supplied with information +on whatever event might be taking place. The British Embassy, in those +days, was a centre where you were sure to find all the English +gentlemen in Paris collected, from time to time. Dinners, balls, and +receptions, were given with profusion throughout the season: in fact, +Sir Charles spent the whole of his private income in these noble +hospitalities. England was then represented, as it always should be in +France, by an ambassador who worthily expressed the intelligence, the +amiability, and the wealth, of the great country to which he belonged. +At the present day, the British Embassy emulates the solitude of a +monastic establishment; with the exception, however, of that +hospitality and courtesy which the traveller and stranger were wont to +experience, even in monasteries. + + + + +ESCAPE OF LAVALETTE FROM PRISON + + +Few circumstances created a greater sensation than the escape of +Lavalette from the Conciergerie, after he had been destined by the +French Government to give employment to the guillotine. The means by +which the prisoner avoided his fate and disappointed his enemies, +produced a deep respect for the English character, and led the French +to believe that, however much the Governments of France and England +might be disposed to foster feelings either of friendship or of enmity, +individuals could entertain the deepest sense of regard for each other, +and that a chivalrous feeling of honour would urge them on to the +exercise of the noblest feelings of our nature. This incident likewise +had a salutary influence in preventing acts of cruelty and of +bloodshed, which were doubtless contemplated by those in power. + +Lavalette had been, under the Imperial Government, head of the Post +Office, which place he filled on the return of the Bourbons; and when +the Emperor Napoleon arrived from Elba, he continued still to be thus +employed. Doubtless, on all occasions when opportunity presented +itself, he did all in his power to serve his great master; to whom, +indeed, he was allied by domestic ties, having married into the +Beauharnais family. When Louis the Eighteenth returned to Paris after +the battle of Waterloo, Lavalette and the unfortunate Marshal Ney were +singled out as traitors to the Bourbon cause, and tried, convicted, and +sentenced to death. The 26th of December was the day fixed for the +execution of Lavalette, a man of high respectability and of great +connections, whose only fault was fidelity to his chief. On the +evening of the 21st, Madame Lavalette, accompanied by her daughter and +her governess, Madame Dutoit, a lady of seventy years of age, presented +herself at the Conciergerie, to take a last farewell of her husband. +She arrived at the prison in a sedan chair. On this very day the +Procureur-general had given an order that no one should be admitted +without an order signed by himself; the greffier having, however, on +previous occasions been accustomed to receive Madame Lavalette with the +two ladies who now sought also to enter the cell, did not object to it; +so these three ladies proposed to take coffee with Lavalette. The under +gaoler was sent to a neighbouring cafe to obtain it, and during his +absence Lavalette exchanged dresses with his wife. He managed to pass +undetected out of the prison, accompanied by his daughter, and entered +the chair in which Madame Lavalette had arrived; which, owing to the +management of a faithful valet, had been placed so that no observation +could be made of the person entering it. The bearers found the chair +somewhat heavier than usual, but were ignorant of the change that had +taken place, and were glad to find, after proceeding a short distance, +that the individual within preferred walking home, and giving up the +sedan to the young lady. On the greffier entering the cell, he quickly +discovered the ruse, and gave the alarm; the under gaoler was +despatched to stop the chair, but he was too late. + +Lavalette had formed a friendship with a young Englishman of the name +of Bruce; to whom he immediately had recourse, throwing himself upon +his generosity and kind feeling for protection, which was +unhesitatingly afforded. But as Bruce could do nothing alone, he +consulted two English friends who had shown considerable sympathy for +the fate of Marshal Ney--men of liberal principles and undoubted +honour, and both of them officers in the British service: these were +Captain Hutchinson and General Sir Robert Wilson. To the latter was +committed the most difficult task, that of conveying out of France the +condemned prisoner; but for this achievement few men were better fitted +than Sir Robert Wilson, a man of fertile imagination, ready courage, +great assurance, and singular power of command over others; who spoke +French well, and was intimately acquainted with the military habits of +different nations. + +Sir Robert Wilson's career was a singular one: he had commenced life an +ardent enemy of Bonaparte, and it was upon his evidence, collected in +Egypt and published to the world, that the great general was for a long +time believed to have poisoned his wounded soldiers at Jaffa. +Afterwards he was attached to the Allied Sovereigns in their great +campaign; but upon his arrival in Paris, his views of public affairs +became suddenly changed; he threw off the yoke of preconceived +opinions, became an ardent liberal, and so continued to the last hours +of his life. The cause of this sudden change of opinion has never been +thoroughly known, but certain it is that on every occasion he supported +liberal opinions with a firmness and courage that astonished those who +had known him in his earlier days. + +Sir Robert undertook, in the midst of great dangers and difficulties, +to convey Lavalette out of France; having dressed him in the uniform of +an English officer, and obtained a passport under a feigned name, he +took him in a cabriolet past the barriers as far as Compiegne, where a +carriage was waiting for them. They passed through sundry examinations +at the fortified towns, but fortunately escaped; the great difficulty +being that, owing to Lavalette's having been the director of the posts, +his countenance was familiar to almost all the postmasters who supplied +relays of horses. At Cambray three hours were lost, from the gates +being shut, and at Valenciennes they underwent three examinations; but +eventually they got out of France. The police, however, became +acquainted with the fact that Lavalette had been concealed in the Rue +de Helder for three days, at the apartments of Mr. Bruce, and this +enabled them to trace all the circumstances, showing that it was at the +apartments of Hutchinson that Lavalette had changed his dress, and that +he had remained there the night before he quitted Paris. The +consequence was that Sir Robert Wilson, Bruce, and Hutchinson, were +tried for aiding the escape of a prisoner; and each of them was +condemned to three months' imprisonment: the under-gaoler, who had +evidently been well paid for services rendered, had two years' +confinement allotted to him. I went to see Sir Robert Wilson during his +stay in the Conciergerie--a punishment not very difficult to bear, but +which marked him as a popular hero for his life. A circumstance I +remember made a strong impression on me, proving that, however great +may be the courage of a man in trying circumstances, a trifling +incident might severely shake his nerves. I was accompanied by a +favourite dog of the Countess of Oxford, who, not being aware of the +high character of Sir Robert, or dissatisfied with his physiognomy, or +for some good canine reason, took a sudden antipathy, and inserted his +teeth into a somewhat fleshy part, but without doing much injury. The +effect, however, on the General was extraordinary: he was most earnest +to have the dog killed; but being certain that the animal was in no way +diseased, I avoided obeying his wishes, and fear that I thus lost the +good graces of the worthy man. + + + + +DUELLING IN FRANCE IN 1815 + + +When the restoration of the Bourbons took place, a variety of +circumstances combined to render duelling so common, that scarcely a +day passed without one at least of these hostile meetings. Amongst the +French themselves there were two parties always ready to distribute to +each other "des coups d'epees"--the officers of Napoleon's army and the +Bourbonist officers of the Garde du Corps. Then, again, there was the +irritating presence of the English, Russian, Prussian, and Austrian +officers in the French capital. In the duels between these soldiers +and the French, the latter were always the aggressors. At Tortoni's, +on the Boulevards, there was a room set apart for such quarrelsome +gentlemen, where, after these meetings, they indulged in riotous +champagne breakfasts. At this cafe might be seen all the most notorious +duellists, amongst whom I can call to mind an Irishman in the Garde du +Corps, W--, who was a most formidable fire-eater. The number of duels +in which he had been engaged would seem incredible in the present day: +he is said to have killed nine of his opponents in one year! + +The Marquis de H--, descended of an ancient family in Brittany, also in +the Garde du Corps, likewise fought innumerable duels, killing many of +his antagonists. I have heard that on entering the army he was not of +a quarrelsome disposition, but was laughed at, and bullied into +fighting by his brother officers; and, like a wild beast that had once +smelt blood, from the day of his first duel he took a delight in such +fatal scenes--being ever ready to rush at and quarrel with any one. +The marquis has now, I am glad to say, subsided into a very quiet, +placable, and peacemaking old gentleman; but at the time I speak of he +was much blamed for his duel with F--, a young man of nineteen. While +dining at a cafe he exclaimed, "J'ai envie de tuer quelq'un," and +rushed out into the street and to the theatres, trying to pick a +quarrel; but he was so well known that no one was found willing to +encounter him. At last, at the Theatre de la Porte St. Martin, he +grossly insulted this young man, who was, I think, an eleve of the +Ecole Polytechnique, and a duel took place, under the lamp-post near +the theatre, with swords. He ran F-- through the body, and left him +dead upon the ground. + +The late Marshal St. A-- and General J-- were great duellists at this +time, with a whole host of others whose names I forget. The meetings +generally took place in the Bois de Boulogne, and the favourite weapon +of the French was the small sword, or the sabre; but foreigners, in +fighting with the French, who were generally capital swordsmen, availed +themselves of the use of pistols. The ground for a duel with pistols +was marked out by indicating two spots, which were twenty-five paces +apart; the seconds then generally proceeded to toss up who should have +the first shot; when the principals were placed, and the word was given +to fire. + +The Cafe Foy, in the Palais Royal, was the principal place of +rendezvous for the Prussian officers, and to this cafe the French +officers on half-pay frequently proceeded in order to pick quarrels +with their foreign invaders; swords were quickly drawn, and frequently +the most bloody frays took place: these originated not in any personal +hatred, but from national jealousy on the part of the French, who could +not bear the sight of foreign soldiers in their capital; which, ruled +by the great captain of the age, had, like Rome, influenced the rest of +the world. On one occasion our Guards, who were on duty at the Palais +Royal, were called out to put an end to one of these encounters, in +which fourteen Prussians and ten Frenchmen were either killed or +wounded. + +The French took every opportunity of insulting the English; and very +frequently, I am sorry to say, those insults were not met in a manner +to do honour to our character, Our countrymen in general were very +pacific; but the most awkward customer the French ever came across was +my fellow-countryman the late gallant Colonel Sir Charles S--, of the +Engineers, who was ready for them with anything: sword, pistols, sabre, +or fists--he was good at all; and though never seeking a quarrel, he +would not put up with the slightest insult. He killed three Frenchmen +in Paris, in quarrels forced upon him. I remember, in October, 1815, +being asked by a friend to dine at Beauvillier's, in the Rue Richelieu, +when Sir Charles S--, who was well known to us, occupied a table at the +farther end of the room. About the middle of the dinner we heard a +most extraordinary noise, and, on looking up, perceived that it arose +from S--'s table; he was engaged in beating the head of a +smartly-dressed gentleman with one of the long French loaves so well +known to all who have visited France. Upon asking the reason of such +rough treatment on the part of our countryman, he said he would serve +all Frenchmen in the same manner if they insulted him. The offence, it +seems, proceeded from the person who had just been chastised in so +summary a manner: he had stared and laughed at S-- in a rude way, for +having ordered three bottles of wine to be placed upon his table. The +upshot of all this was a duel, which took place next day at a place +near Vincennes, and in which S-- shot the unfortunate jester. + +When Sir Charles returned to Valenciennes, where he commanded the +Engineers, he found on his arrival a French officer waiting to avenge +the death of his relation, who had only been shot ten days before at +Vincennes. They accordingly fought, before S-- had time even to shave +himself or eat his breakfast; he having only just arrived in his coupe +from Paris. The meeting took place in the fosse of the fortress, and +the first shot from S--'s pistol killed the French officer, who had +actually travelled in the diligence from Paris for the purpose, as he +boasted to his fellow-travellers, of killing an Englishman. + +I recollect dining, in 1816, at Hervey Aston's, at the Hotel Breteuil +in the Rue de Rivoli, opposite the Tuileries, where I met Seymour +Bathurst and Captain E--, of the Artillery, a very good-looking man. +After dinner, Mrs. Aston took us as far as Tortoni's, on her way to the +Opera. On entering the cafe, Captain E-- did not touch his hat +according to the custom of the country, but behaved himself, a la John +Bull, in a noisy and swaggering manner; upon which, General, then +Colonel J--, went up to E-- and knocked off his hat, telling him that +he hoped he would in future behave himself better. Aston, Bathurst, +and I, waited for some time, expecting to see E-- knock J-- down, or, +at all events, give him his card as a preliminary to a hostile meeting, +on receiving such an insult; but he did nothing. We were very much +disgusted and annoyed at a countryman's behaving in such a manner, and, +after a meeting at my lodgings, we recommended Captain E--, in the +strongest terms, to call out Colonel J--, but he positively refused to +do so, as he said it was against his principles. This specimen of the +white feather astonished us beyond measure. Captain E-- shortly after +received orders to start for India, where I believe he died of +cholera--in all probability of FUNK. + +I do not think that Colonel J-- would altogether have escaped with +impunity, after such a gratuitous insult to an English officer; but he +retired into the country almost immediately after the incident at +Tortoni's, and could not be found. + +There were many men in our army who did not thus disgrace the British +uniform when insulted by the French. I cannot omit the names of my old +friends Captain Burges, Mike Fitzgerald, Charles Hesse, and Thoroton; +each of whom, by their willingness to resent gratuitous offences, +showed that insults to Englishmen were not to be committed with +impunity. The last named officer having been grossly insulted by +Marshal V--, without giving him the slightest provocation, knocked him +down: this circumstance caused a great sensation in Paris, and brought +about a court of inquiry, which ended in the acquittal of Captain +Thoroton. My friend, B--, though he had only one leg, was a good +swordsman, and contrived to kill a man at Lyons who had jeered him +about the loss of his limb at Waterloo. My old and esteemed friend, +Mike Fitzgerald, son of Lord Edward and the celebrated Pamela, was +always ready to measure swords with the Frenchmen; and, after a brawl +at Silves', the then fashionable Bonapartist cafe at the corner of the +Rue Lafitte and the Boulevard, in which two of our Scotch countrymen +showed the white feather, he and another officer placed their own cards +over the chimney-piece in the principal room of the cafe, offering to +fight any man, or number of men, for the frequent public insult offered +to Britons. This challenge, however, was never answered. + +A curious duel took place at Beauvais during the occupation of France +by our army. A Captain B--, of one of our cavalry regiments quartered +in that town, was insulted by a French officer, B-- demanded +satisfaction, which was accepted; but the Frenchman would not fight +with pistols. B-- would not fight with swords; so at last it was agreed +that they should fight on horseback, with lances. The duel took place +in the neighbourhood of Beauvais, and a crowd assembled to witness it. +B-- received three wounds; but, by a lucky prod, eventually killed his +man. B-- was a fine-looking man and a good horseman. My late friend +the Baron de P--, so well known in Parisian circles, was second to the +Frenchman on this occasion. + +A friend of mine--certainly not of a quarrelsome turn, but considered +by his friends, on the contrary, as rather a good-natured man--had +three duels forced upon him in the course of a few weeks. He had +formed a liaison with a person whose extraordinary beauty got him into +several scrapes and disputes. In January 1 1817, a few days after this +acquaintance had been formed, Jack B--, well known at that time in the +best society in London, became madly in love with the fair lady, and +attempted one night to enter her private box at Drury Lane; this my +friend endeavoured to prevent; violent language was used, and a duel +was the consequence. The parties met a few miles from London, in a +field close to the Uxbridge Road, where B--, who was a hot-tempered +man, did his best to kill my friend; but, after the exchange of two +shots, without injury to either party, they were separated by their +seconds. B-- was the son of Lady Bridget B--, and the seconds were +Payne, uncle to George Payne, and Colonel Joddrell of the Guards. + +Soon after this incident, my friend accompanied the lady to Paris, +where they took up their residence at Meurice's, in the Rue de +l'Echiquier. The day after their arrival, they went out to take a walk +in the Palais Royal, and were followed by a half-pay officer of +Napoleon's army, Colonel D.--a notorious duellist, who observed to the +people about him that he was going to bully "un Anglais." This man was +exceedingly rude in his remarks, uttered in a loud voice; and after +every sort of insult expressed in words, he had the impudence to put +his arm round the lady's waist. My friend indignantly asked the +colonel what he meant; upon which the ruffian spat in my friend's face: +but he did not get off with impunity, for my friend, who had a crab +stick in his hand, caught him a blow on the side of the head, which +dropped him. The Frenchman jumped up, and rushed at the Englishman; +but they were separated by the bystanders. Cards were exchanged, and a +meeting was arranged to take place the next morning in the +neighbourhood of Fassy. When my friend, accompanied by his second, +Captain H--, of the 18th, came upon the ground, he found the colonel +boasting of the number of officers of all nations whom he had killed, +and saying, "I'll now complete my list by killing an Englishman." "Mon +petit tir aura bientot ton conte, car je tire fort bien." My friend +quietly said, "Je ne tire pas mal non plus," and took his place. The +colonel, who seems to have been a horrible ruffian, after a good deal +more swaggering and bravado, placed himself opposite, and, on the +signal being given, the colonel's ball went through my friend's +whiskers, whilst his ball pierced his adversary's heart, who fell dead +without a groan. + +This duel made much noise in Paris, and the survivor left immediately +for Chantilly, where he passed some time. On his return to Paris, the +second of the man who had been killed, Commander P., insulted and +challenged my friend. A meeting was accordingly agreed upon, and +pistols were again the weapons used. Again my friend won the toss, and +told his second, Captain H--, that he would not kill his antagonist, +though he richly deserved death for wishing to take the life of a +person who had never offended him; but that he would give him a lesson +which he should remember. My friend accordingly shot his antagonist in +the knee; and I remember to have seen him limping about the streets of +Paris twenty years after this event. + +When the result of this second duel was known, not less than eleven +challenges from Bonapartists were received by the gentleman in +question; but any further encounters were put a stop to by the Minister +of War, or the Duc d'Angouleme (I forget which), who threatened to +place the officers under arrest if they followed up this quarrel any +further. When the news reached England, the Duke of York said that my +friend could not have acted otherwise than he had done in the first +duel, considering the gross provocation that he had received; but he +thought it would have been better if the second duel had been avoided. + +In the deeds I have narrated, the English seem to have had the +advantage, but many others took place, in which Englishmen were killed +or wounded: these I have not mentioned, as their details do not recur +to my memory; but I do not remember a single occasion on which +Frenchmen were not the aggressors. At a somewhat later period than +this, the present Marquis of H--, then Lord B--, had a duel with the +son of the Bonapartist General L--. General S-- was Lord B--'s second, +and the principals exchanged several shots without injury to either +party. This duel, like the preceding, originated with the Frenchman, +who insulted the Englishman at the Theatre Francais in the most +unprovoked manner. At the present day our fiery neighbours are much +more amenable to reason, and if you are but civil, they will be civil +to you; duels consequently are of rare occurrence. Let us hope that the +frequency and the animus displayed in these hostile meetings originated +in national wounded vanity rather than in personal animosity. + +In the autumn of 1821 I was living in Paris, when my old friend H--, +Adjutant of the 1st Foot Guards, called upon me, and requested that I +would be his second in a duel with Mr. N--, an officer in the same +regiment. After hearing what he had to say, and thinking I could serve +him, I consented. It was agreed by Captain F--, R.N., of Pitmore, Mr. +N--'s second, that the duel should take place in the Bois de Boulogne. +After an exchange of shots, Captain F. and myself put an end to the +duel. The cause of the quarrel was that Mr. N--, now Lord G--, +proclaimed in the presence of Captain H-- and other officers, that a +lady, the wife of a brother officer, was "what she ought not to be." +When the report reached the ear of the Colonel, H. R. H. the Duke of +York requested Mr. N-- to leave the regiment, or be brought to a +court-martial; and then the duel took place, happily without bloodshed. +Both of the officers, it need scarcely be stated, behaved with courage +and coolness. + + + + +PISTOL SHOOTING + + +From 1820 to 1830 pistol shooting was not much practised. One evening, +in the Salon des Etrangers, I was introduced to General F--, a very +great duellist, and the terror of every regiment he commanded; he was +considered by Napoleon to be one of his best cavalry officers, but was +never in favour, in consequence of his duelling propensities. It was +currently reported that F--, in a duel with a very young officer lost +his toss, and his antagonist fired first at him; when, finding he had +not been touched, he deliberately walked close up to the young man, +saying, "Je plains ta mere," and shot him dead. But there were some +doubts of the truth of this story; and I trust, for the honour of +humanity, that it was either an invention or a gross exaggeration. + +The night I was introduced to F--, I was told to be on my guard, as he +was a dangerous character. He was very fond of practising with +pistols, and I frequently met him at Lapage's, the only place at that +time where gentlemen used to shoot. F--, in the year 1822, was very +corpulent, and wore an enormous cravat, in order, it was said, to hide +two scars received in battle. He was a very slow shot. + +The famous Junot, Governor-General of Paris, whom I never saw, was +considered to be the best shot in France. My quick shooting surprised +the habitues at Lapage's, where we fired at a spot chalked on the +figure of a Cossack painted on a board, and by word of command, +"One--two--three." F--, upon my firing and hitting the mark forty +times in succession, at the distance of twenty paces, shrieked out, +"Tonnerre de Dieu, c'est magnifique!" We were ever afterwards on good +terms, and supped frequently together at the Salon. At Manton's, on +one occasion, I hit the wafer nineteen times out of twenty. When my +battalion was on duty at the Tower in 1819, it happened to be very +cold, and much snow covered the parade and trees. For our amusement it +was proposed to shoot at the sparrows in the trees from Lady Jane +Grey's room; and it fell to my lot to bag eleven, without missing one: +this, I may say, without flattering myself, was considered the best +pistol-shooting ever heard of. + +Manton assigned as the reason why pistols had become the usual arms for +duels, the story (now universally laughed at) of Sheridan and Captain +Matthews fighting with swords on the ground, and mangling each other in +a frightful way. These combatants narrated their own story; but its +enormous exaggeration has been proved even on Sheridan's own evidence, +and the blood that poured from him seems merely to have been the +excellent claret of the previous night's debauch. The number of wounds +said to have been inflicted on each other was something so incredible +that nothing but the solemn asseverations of the parties could have +gained belief; and in those days Sheridan had not obtained that +reputation for rodomontade which he afterwards enjoyed by universal +consent. + + + + +THE FAUBOURG ST. GERMAIN + + +The distinguishing characteristics of the residents of the "noble +Faubourg," as it was called at the time I am speaking of, were +indomitable pride and exclusiveness, with a narrow-minded ignorance of +all beyond the circle in which its members moved. In our day of +comparative equality and general civility, no one who has not arrived +at my age, and lived in Paris, can form any idea of the insolence and +hauteur of the higher classes of society in 1815. The glance of +unutterable disdain which the painted old duchesse of the Restoration +cast upon the youthful belles of the Chausse d'Antin, or the handsome +widows of Napoleon's army of heroes, defies description. Although often +responded to by a sarcastic sneer at the antediluvian charms of the +emigree, yet the look of contempt and disgust often sank deep into the +victim's heart, leaving there germs which showed themselves fifteen +years later in the revolution of 1830. In those days, this privileged +class was surrounded by a charmed circle, which no one could by any +means break through. Neither personal attractions nor mental +qualifications formed a passport into that exclusive society; to enter +which the small nobility of the provinces, or the nouveau riche, sighed +in vain. It would have been easier for a young Guardsman to make his +way into the Convent des Oiseaux--the fashionable convent in +Paris--than for any of these parvenus to force an entrance into the +Faubourg St. Germain. + +One of the first acts which followed the Restoration of the Bourbons +was the grant of a pecuniary indemnity, amounting to a milliard, or +forty millions sterling, to be distributed amongst the emigres who had +lost fortunes or estates by their devotion to the royal family. They +had now, therefore, the means of receiving their friends, political +partisans, and foreigners, with more than usual splendour; and it must +be admitted that those who were thought worthy to be received were +treated like spoiled children, and petted and flattered to their +heart's content. In their own houses they were really des grands +seigneurs, and quite incapable of treating their invited guests with +the insolence that became the fashion among the Jewish parvenus during +the reign of the "citizen king." It is one thing to disdain those whom +one does not think worthy of our acquaintance, and another to insult +those whom one has thought proper to invite. + +In their own houses, the inhabitants of the Faubourg St. Germain were +scrupulously polite: even if some enterprising foreigner should have +got in surreptitiously, as long as he was under his host's roof he was +treated with perfect courtesy; though ignominiously "cut" for the +remainder of his days. All this was not very amiable; but the +inhabitants of the "noble Faubourg" were never distinguished for their +amiability. Their best characteristics were the undaunted courage with +which they met death upon the scaffold, and the cheerfulness and +resignation with which they ate the bitter bread of exile. In general, +les grandes dames were not remarkable for their personal attractions, +nor for the elegance of their appearance or dress. The galaxy of +handsome women that formed the court of the Emperor had perhaps sent +beauty somewhat out of fashion; for the high-born ladies who took their +place were what we should call dowdy, and had nothing distinguished in +their appearance. Many of those who belonged to the most ancient +families were almost vulgar in outward form and feature: their manner +had a peculiar off-hand, easy style; and they particularly excelled in +setting down any unlucky person who had happened to offend them. Their +main object, at this time, was to stand well at court, therefore they +adapted themselves to circumstances, and could be devout with the +Dauphine and sceptical with Louis the Eighteenth. + +The men of the aristocracy of the Revolution were less clever and +satirical than the women; but, on the other hand, they had far more of +the distinguished bearing and graceful urbanity of the grands seigneurs +of the olden time. The emigre nobles would have gazed with unutterable +horror at their degenerate descendants of the present day; but these +young, booted, bearded, cigar-smoking scions of la jeune France would +have run round their courteous, but, perhaps, rather slow ancestors, in +all the details of daily life. + +The principal houses of reception in those days were those of the +Montmorencys, the Richelieus, Birons, Rohans, Goutaut Talleyrands, +Beauffremonts, Luxemburgs, Crillons, Choiseuls, Chabots, Fitzjames, +Grammonts, Latours de Pin, Coislins, and Maillys. Most of these +mansions are now occupied as public offices, or Jesuitical schools, or +by foreign Ministers. Those who are now supposed to be the great people +of the Faubourg St. Germain are nothing more than actors, who put on a +motley dress and appear before the public with the view of attracting +that attention to which they are not entitled; it is, therefore, an +error to suppose that the modern faubourg is anything like what it was +during the days of the Bourbons. At the present moment the only +practical aid the inhabitants of this locality can accord to the +legitimist cause in Europe, is by getting up subscriptions for the +Papacy, and such exiled Sovereigns as Francis II.; and, in order to do +so, they generally address themselves to married women and widows: in +fact, it is from the purses of susceptible females, many of whom are +English, that donations are obtained for legitimacy and Popery in +distress. + +It is to be regretted that the most renowned and ancient families of +France have, in society and politics, yielded their places to another +class. That refinement of perception, sensitiveness, and gentle +bearing, which take three or four generations to produce, are no longer +the characteristics of Parisian society. The gilded saloons of the +Tuileries, and those magnificent hotels whose architects have not been +geniuses of art, but the children of Mammon, are occupied by the Jew +speculator, the political parasite, the clever schemer, and those +who--whilst following the fortune of the great man who rules +France--are nothing better than harpies. Most of these pretended +devotees of imperialism have, speaking figuratively, their portmanteaus +perpetually packed, ready for flight. The Emperor's good nature, as +regards his entourage, has never allowed him to get rid of men who, +perhaps, ought not to be seen so near the Imperial throne of France. +The weakest feature of Napoleon III.'s Government is the conspicuous +presence of a few persons in high places, whose cupidity is so +extravagant that, in order to gratify their lust of wealth, they would +not hesitate, indirectly at least, to risk a slur on the reputation of +their master and benefactor, in order to gain their own ends. + + + + +THE SALON DES ETRANGERS IN PARIS + + +When the allies entered Paris, after the Battle of Waterloo, the +English gentlemen sought, instinctively, something like a club. Paris, +however, possessed nothing of the sort; but there was a much more +dangerous establishment than the London clubs, namely, a rendezvous for +confirmed gamblers. The Salon des Etrangers was most gorgeously +furnished, provided with an excellent kitchen and wines, and was +conducted by the celebrated Marquis de Livry, who received the guests +and did the honours with a courtesy which made him famous throughout +Europe. The Marquis presented an extraordinary likeness to the Prince +Regent of England, who actually sent Lord Fife over to Paris to +ascertain this momentous fact. The play which took place in these +saloons was frequently of the most reckless character; large fortunes +were often lost, the losers disappearing, never more to be heard of. +Amongst the English habitues were the Hon. George T--, the late Henry +Baring, Lord Thanet, Tom Sowerby, Cuthbert, Mr. Steer, Henry Broadwood, +and Bob Arnold. + +The Hon. George T--, who used to arrive from London with a very +considerable letter of credit expressly to try his luck at the Salon +des Etrangers, at length contrived to lose his last shilling at rouge +et noir. When he had lost everything he possessed in the world, he got +up and exclaimed, in an excited manner, "If I had Canova's Venus and +Adonis from Alton Towers, my uncle's country seat, it should be placed +on the rouge, for black has won fourteen times running!" + +The late Henry Baring was more fortunate at hazard than his countryman, +but his love of gambling was the cause of his being excluded from the +banking establishment. Col. Sowerby, of the Guards, was one of the +most inveterate players in Paris; and, as is frequently the case with a +fair player, a considerable loser. But, perhaps, the most incurable +gamester amongst the English was Lord Thanet, whose income was not less +than 50,000£. a year, every farthing of which he lost at play. +Cuthbert dissipated the whole of his fortune in like manner. In fact, +I do not remember any instance where those who spent their time in this +den did not lose all they possessed. + +The Marquis de L-- had a charming villa at Romainville, near Paris, to +which, on Sundays, he invited not only those gentlemen who were the +most prodigal patrons of his salon, but a number of ladies, who were +dancers and singers conspicuous at the opera; forming a society of the +strangest character, the male portion of which were bent on losing +their money, whilst the ladies were determined to get rid of whatever +virtue they might still have left. The dinners on these occasions were +supplied by the chef of the Salon des Etrangers, and were such as few +renommes of the kitchens of France could place upon the table. + +Amongst the constant guests was Lord Fife, the intimate friend of +George IV., with Mdlle. Noblet, a danseuse, who gave so much +satisfaction to the habitues of the pit at the opera, both in Paris and +London. His lordship spent a fortune upon her; his presents in jewels, +furniture, articles of dress, and money, exceeded 40,000£. In return +for all this generosity, Lord Fife asked nothing more than the lady's +flattery and professions of affection. + +Hall Standish was always to be seen in this circle; and his own hotel +in the Rue le Pelletier was often lighted up, and fetes given to the +theatrical and demi-monde. Standish died in Spain, leaving his gallery +of pictures to Louis Philippe. + +Amonst others who visited the Salon des Etrangers were Sir Francis +Vincent, Gooch, Green, Ball Hughes, and many others whose names I no +longer remember. Of foreigners the most conspicuous were Blucher, +General Ormano, father-in-law of Count Walewski, Pacto, and Clari, as +well as most of the ambassadors at the court of the Tuileries. As at +Crockford's, a magnificent supper was provided every night for all who +thought proper to avail themselves of it. The games principally played +were rouge et noir and hazard; the former producing an immense profit, +for not only were the whole of the expenses of this costly +establishment defrayed by the winnings of the bank, but a very large +sum was paid annually to the municipality of Paris. I recollect a +young Irishman, Mr. Gough, losing a large fortune at this tapis vert. +After returning home about two A.M., he sat down and wrote a letter, +giving reasons as to why he was about to commit suicide: these, it is +needless to say, were simply his gambling reverses. A pistol shot +through the brain terminated his existence. Sir Francis Vincent--a man +of old family and considerable fortune--was another victim of this +French hell, who contrived to get rid of his magnificent property, and +then disappeared from society. + +In calling up my recollections of the Salon des Etrangers, some forty +years since, I see before me the noble form and face of the Hungarian +Count Hunyady, the chief gambler of the day, who created considerable +sensation in his time. He became tres a la mode: his horses, carriage, +and house were considered perfect, while his good looks were the theme +of universal admiration. There were ladies' cloaks "a la Huniade," +whilst the illustrious Borel, of the Rocher de Cancaile, named new +dishes after the famous Hungarian. Hunyady's luck for a long time was +prodigious: no bank could resist his attacks; and at one time he must +have been a winner of nearly two millions of francs. His manners were +particularly calm and gentlemanlike; he sat apparently unmoved, with +his right hand in the breast of his coat, whilst thousands depended +upon the turning of a card or the hazard of a die. His valet, however, +confided to some indiscreet friend that his nerves were not of such +iron temper as he would have made people believe, and that the count +bore in the morning the bloody marks of his nails, which he had pressed +into his chest in the agony of an unsuccessful turn of fortune. The +streets of Paris were at that time not very safe; consequently the +Count was usually attended to his residence by two gensdarmes, in order +to prevent his being attacked by robbers. Hunyady was not wise enough +(what gamblers are?) to leave Paris with his large winnings, but +continued as usual to play day and night. A run of bad luck set in +against him, and he lost not only the whole of the money he had won, +but a very large portion of his own fortune. He actually borrowed 50£. +of the well-known Tommy Garth--who was himself generally more in the +borrowing than the lending line--to take him back to Hungary. + + + + +THE DUCHESS DE BERRI AT MASS AT THE CHAPELLE ROYALE + + +I had the honour of being invited to an evening party at the Tuileries +in the winter of 1816, and was in conversation with the Countess de +l'Espinasse, when the Duchess did me the honour to ask me if I intended +going to St. Germain to hunt. I replied in the negative, not having +received an invitation; upon which the Duchess graciously observed that +if I would attend mass the following morning in the Royal Chapel, she +would manage it. Accordingly I presented myself there dressed in a +black coat and trousers and white neckcloth; but at the entrance, a +huge Swiss told me I could not enter the chapel without knee-buckles. +At that moment Alexandre Gerardin, the grand veneur, came to my +assistance; he spoke to the Duchess, who immediately gave instructions +that Mr. Gronow was to be admitted "sans culottes." The card for the +hunt came; but the time to get the uniform was so short, that I was +prevented going to St. Germain. At that time the fascinating Duchess +de Berri was the theme of admiration of everyone. All who could obtain +admission to the chapelle were charmed with the grace with which, on +passing through the happy group who had been fortunate enough to gain +the privilege, she cast her glance of recognition upon those who were +honoured with her notice. When again I had the honour of being in the +presence of the Duchess, she inquired whether the hunt amused me; and +upon my telling her that I had been unable to go, in consequence of the +want of the required uniform, the Duchess archly remarked "Ah! M. le +Capitaine, parceque vous n'avez pas jamais des culottes." + + + + +LORD WESTMORELAND + + +When I was presented at the Court of Louis XVIII., Lord Westmoreland, +the grandfather of the present lord, accompanied Sir Charles Stewart to +the Tuileries. On our arrival in the room where the King was, we formed +ourselves into a circle, when the King good-naturedly inquired after +Lady Westmoreland, from whom his lordship was divorced, and whether she +was in Paris. Upon this, the noble lord looked sullen, and refused to +reply to the question put by the King. His Majesty, however, repeated +it, when Lord Westmoreland hallooed out, in bad French, "Je ne sais +pas, je ne sais pas, je ne sais pas." Louis, rising, said, "Assez, +milord; assez, milord." + +On one occasion, Lord Westmoreland, who was Lord Privy Seal, being +asked what office he held, replied, "Le Chancelier est le grand sceau +(Sot); moi je suis le petit sceau d' Angleterre." On another occasion, +he wished to say "I would if I could, but I can't," and rendered it, +"Je voudrais si je coudrais, mais je ne cannais pas." + + + + +ALDERMAN WOOD + + +Among the many English who then visited Paris was Alderman Wood, who +had previously filled the office of Lord Mayor of London. He ordered a +hundred visiting cards, inscribing upon them, "Alderman Wood, feu Lord +Maire de Londres," which he had largely distributed amongst people of +rank--having translated the word "late" into "feu," which I need hardly +state means "dead." + + + + +THE OPERA + + +A few years after the restoration of the Bourbons, the opera was the +grand resort of all the fashionable world. Sostennes de la +Rochefoucauld was Minister of the Household, and his office placed him +at the head of all the theatres. M. de la Rochefoucauld was +exceedingly polite to our countrymen, and gave permission to most of +our dandies to go behind the scenes, where Bigottini, Fanny Bias, +Vestris, Anatole, Paul, Albert, and the other principal dancers, +congregated. One of our countrymen, having been introduced by M. de la +Rochefoucauld to Mademoiselle Bigottini, the beautiful and graceful +dancer, in the course of conversation with this gentleman, asked him in +what part of the theatre he was placed; upon which he replied, +"Mademoiselle, dans un loge rotie," instead of "grillee." The lady +could not understand what he meant, until his introducer explained the +mistake, observing, "Les diables des Anglais pensent toujours a leur +Rosbif." + + + + +FANNY ELSSLER + + +In 1822 I saw this beautiful person for the first time. She was +originally one of the figurantes at the opera at Vienna, and was at +this time about fourteen years of age, and of delicate and graceful +proportions. Her hair was auburn, her eyes blue and large, and her +face wore an expression of great tenderness. Some years after the Duke +of Reichstadt, the son of the great Napoleon, was captivated with her +beauty; in a word, he became her acknowledged admirer, while her +marvellous acting and dancing drew around her all the great men of the +German court. The year following she went to Naples, where a brother +of the King fell desperately in love with her. Mademoiselle Elssler +went soon afterwards to Paris, where her wit electrified all the +fashionable world, and her dancing and acting in the Diable Boiteux +made the fortune of the entrepreneur. In London her success was not so +striking; but her cachucha will long be remembered, as one of the most +exquisite exhibitions of female grace and power ever seen at her +Majesty's Theatre, and in expressiveness, her pantomimic powers were +unrivalled. + + + + +CHARLES X. AND LOUIS PHILIPPE + + +When the father of the present ex-King of Naples came to Paris during +the reign of Charles X., Louis Philippe, then Duke of Orleans, living +at the Palais Royal, gave a very grand fete to his royal cousin. I had +the honour to be one of the party invited, and witnessed an +extraordinary scene, which I think worth relating. About eleven +o'clock, when the rooms were crowded, Charles X. arrived, with a +numerous suite. On entering, he let fall his pocket-handkerchief--it +was then supposed by accident; upon this, Louis Philippe fell upon one +knee and presented the handkerchief to his Sovereign; who smiled and +said, "Merci, mon cher; merci." This incident was commented upon for +many days, and several persons said that the handkerchief was purposely +thrown down to see whether Louis Philippe would pick it up. + +At that period, the Orleans family were en mauvais odeur at the +Tuileries, and consequently, this little incident created considerable +gossip among the courtly quidnuncs. I remember that when Lord William +Bentinck was asked what he thought of the circumstance, he +good-naturedly answered, "The King most probably wanted to know how the +wind blew." + +It was known that a large number of persons hostile to the court were +invited; and among these were Casimir Perier, the Dupins, Lafitte, +Benjamin Constant, and a host of others who a few years afterwards +drove out the eldest branch that occupied the throne to make way for +Louis Philippe. + + + + +LORD THANET + + +The late Lord Thanet, celebrated for having been imprisoned in the +Tower for his supposed predilection for republicanism, passed much of +his time in Paris, particularly at the Salon des Etrangers. His +lordship's infatuation for play was such, that when the gambling-tables +were closed, he invited those who remained to play at chicken-hazard +and ecarte; the consequence was that, one night, he left off a loser of +120,000£. When told of his folly and the probability of his having been +cheated, he exclaimed, "Then I consider myself lucky in not having lost +twice that sum!" + + + + +LORD GRANVILLE, THE BRITISH AMBASSADOR + + +Soon after Lord Granville's appointment, a strange occurrence took +place at one of the public gambling-houses. A colonel, on half-pay, in +the British service, having lost every farthing that he possessed, +determined to destroy himself, together with all those who were +instrumental in his ruin. Accordingly, he placed a canister full of +fulminating powder under the table, and set it on fire: it blew up, but +fortunately no one was hurt. The police arrested the colonel, and +placed him in prison; he was, however, through the humane interposition +of our ambassador, sent out of France as a madman. + + + + +MARSHAL BLUCHER + + +Marshal Blucher, though a very fine fellow, was a very rough diamond, +with the manners of a common soldier. On his arrival in Paris, he went +every day to the salon, and played the highest stakes at rouge et noir. +The salon, during the time that the marshal remained in Paris, was +crowded by persons who came to see him play. His manner of playing was +anything but gentlemanlike, and when he lost, he used to swear in +German at everything that was French, looking daggers at the croupiers. +He generally managed to lose all he had about him, also all the money +his servant, who was waiting in the ante-chamber, carried. I recollect +looking attentively at the manner in which he played; he would put his +right hand into his pocket, and bring out several rouleaus of +Napoleons, and throw them on the red or black. If he won the first +coup, he would allow it to remain; but when the croupier stated that +the table was not responsible for more than ten thousand francs, then +Blucher would roar like a lion, and rap out oaths in his native +language, which would doubtless have met with great success at +Billingsgate, if duly translated: fortunately, they were not heeded, as +they were not understood by the lookers-on. + +At that period there were rumours--and reliable ones, too--that Blucher +and the Duke of Wellington were at loggerheads. The Prussians wanted +to blow up the Bridge of Jena; but the Duke sent a battalion of our +regiment to prevent it, and the Prussian engineers who were mining the +bridge were civilly sent away: this circumstance created some ill-will +between the chiefs. + +A sort of congress of the Emperors of Austria and Russia and the King +of Prussia, with Blucher and Wellington, met at the Hotel of Foreign +Affairs, on the Boulevard, when, after much ado, the Duke of Wellington +emphatically declared that if any of the monuments were destroyed he +would take the British army from Paris: this threat had the desired +effect. Nevertheless, Blucher levied contributions on the poor +Parisians, and his army was newly clothed. The Bank of France was +called upon to furnish him with several thousand pounds, which, it was +said, were to reimburse him for the money lost at play. This, with +many other instances of extortion and tyranny, was the cause of +Blucher's removal, and he took his departure by order of the King. + +I once saw a regiment of Prussians march down the Rue St. Honore when a +line of half-a-dozen hackney-coachmen were quietly endeavouring to make +their way in a contrary direction; suddenly some of the Prussian +soldiers left their ranks, and with the butt-end of their muskets +knocked the poor coachmen off their seats. I was in uniform, and felt +naturally ashamed at what I had seen: some Frenchmen came up to me and +requested me to report what I had witnessed to the Duke of Wellington; +but, upon my telling them it would be of no avail, they one and all +said the English ought to blush at having allies and friends capable of +such wanton brutality. + +The fact is that the French had behaved so ill at Berlin, after the +Battle of Jena, in 1806, that the Prussians had sworn to be revenged, +if ever they had the opportunity to visit upon France the cruelties, +the extortion, insults, and hard usage their own capital had suffered; +and they kept their word. + +One afternoon, when upwards of a hundred Prussian officers entered the +galleries of the Palais Royal, they visited all the shops in turn, +insulting the women and striking the men, breaking the windows and +turning everything upside down: nothing, indeed, could have been more +outrageous than their conduct. When information was brought to Lord +James Hay of what was going on, he went out, and arrived just as a +troop of French gensdarmes were on the point of charging the Prussians, +then in the garden. He lost no time in calling out his men, and, +placing himself between the gensdarmes and the officers, said he should +fire upon the first who moved. The Prussians then came to him and said, +"We had all vowed to return upon the heads of the French in Paris the +insults that they had heaped upon our countrymen in Berlin; we have +kept our vow, and we will now retire." Nothing could equal the bitter +hatred which existed, and still exists, between the French and the +Prussians. + + + + +JEW MONEY-LENDERS + + +One of the features of high society after the long war was a passion +for gambling; so universal was it that there are few families of +distinction who do not even to the present day retain unpleasant +reminiscences of the period. When people become systematic players, +they are often obliged to raise money at an exorbitant interest, and +usually under such circumstances fly to the Israelites. I have often +heard players wish these people in almost every uncomfortable quarter +of the known and unknown worlds. The mildness and civility with which +the Christian in difficulties always addresses the moneyed Israelite, +contrast forcibly with the opprobrious epithets lavished on him when +the day for settlement comes. When a man requires money to pay his +debts of honour, and borrows from the Jews, he knows perfectly well +what he is doing; though one of the last things which foolish people +learn is how to trace their own errors to their proper source. Hebrew +money-lenders could not thrive if there were no borrowers: the gambler +brings about his own ruin. The characteristics of the Jew are never +more perceptible than when they come in contact with gentlemen to ruin +them. On such occasions, the Jew is humble, supercilious, blunderingly +flattering; and if he can become the agent of any dirty work, is only +too happy to be so, in preference to a straightforward and honest +transaction. No man is more vulgarly insulting to those dependent upon +him than the Jew, who invariably cringes to his superiors; above all, +he is not a brave man. It will be seen, from these observations, what +is my opinion of a class of traders who in all parts of the world are +sure to embrace what may be termed illicit and illegitimate commerce. +At the same time, I suspect that the Jew simply avails himself of the +weakness and vices of mankind, and will continue in this line of +business so long as imprudent and extravagant humanity remains what it +is. + +Two usurers, who obtained much notoriety from the high game which was +brought to them, were men known by the names of Jew King and Solomon. +These were of very different characters: King was a man of some talent, +and had good taste in the fine arts. He had made the peerage a +complete study, knew the exact position of everyone who was connected +with a coronet, the value of their property, how deeply the estates +were mortgaged, and what encumbrances weighed upon them. Nor did his +knowledge stop there: by dint of sundry kind attentions to the clerks +of the leading banking-houses, he was aware of the balances they kept; +and the credit attached to their names; so that, to the surprise of the +borrower, he let him into the secrets of his own actual position. He +gave excellent dinners, at which many of the highest personages of the +realm were present; and when they fancied that they were about to meet +individuals whom it would be upon their conscience to recognize +elsewhere, were not a little amused to find clients quite as highly +placed as themselves, and with purses quite as empty. King had a +well-appointed house in Clarges Street; but it was in a villa upon the +banks of the Thames, which had been beautifully fitted up by Walsh +Porter in the Oriental style, and which I believe is now the seat of +one of the most favoured votaries of the Muses, Sir Edward Bulwer +Lytton, that his hospitalities were most lavishly and luxuriously +exercised. Here it was that Sheridan told his host that he liked his +table better than his multiplication table; to which his host, who was +not only witty, but often the cause of wit in others, replied, "I know, +Mr. Sheridan: your taste is more for Jo-king than for Jew King," +alluding to King, the actor's admirable performance in Sheridan's +School for Scandal. + +King kept a princely establishment, and a splendid equipage which he +made to serve as an advertisement of his calling. A yellow carriage, +with panels emblazoned with a well-executed shield and armorial +bearings, and drawn by two richly-caparisoned steeds, the Jehu on the +box wearing, according to the fashion of those days, a coat of many +capes, a powdered wig, and gloves a l'Henri Quatre, and two spruce +footmen in striking but not gaudy livery, with long canes in their +hands, daily made its appearance in the Park from four to seven in the +height of the season. Mrs. King was a fine-looking woman, and being +dressed in the height of fashion, she attracted innumerable gazers, who +pronounced the whole turn-out to be a work of refined taste, and worthy +a man of "so much principal and interest." + +It happened that during one of these drives, Lord William L., a man of +fashion, but, like other of the great men of the day, an issuer of +paper money discounted at high rates by the usurers, was thrown off his +horse. Mr. and Mrs. King immediately quitted the carriage and placed +the noble lord within. On this circumstance being mentioned in the +clubs, Brummell observed it was only "a Bill Jewly (duly) taken up and +honoured." + +Solomon indulged in many aliases, being known by the names of +Goldsched, Slowman, as well as by other noms de guerre; and he was +altogether of a different cast from King, being avaricious, +distrustful, and difficult to deal with. He counted upon his gains +with all the grasping feverishness of the miser; and owing to his great +caution he had an immense command of money, which the confidence of his +brethren placed in his hands. To the jewellers, the coachmakers, and +the tailors, who were obliged to give exorbitant accommodation to their +aristocratic customers, and were eventually paid in bills of an +incredibly long date, Solomon was of inestimable use. Hamlet, +Houlditch, and other dependants upon the nobility, were often compelled +to seek his assistance. + +Hamlet, the jeweller, was once looked up to as the richest tradesman at +the West End. His shop at the corner of Cranbourne Alley exhibited a +profuse display of gold and silver plate, whilst in the jewel room +sparkled diamonds, amethysts, rubies, and other precious stones, in +every variety of setting. He was constantly called on to advance money +upon such objects, which were left in pawn only to be taken out on the +occasion of a great banquet, or when a court dress was to be worn. His +gains were enormous, though it was necessary to give long credit; and +his bills for twenty or thirty thousand pounds were eagerly discounted. +In fact, he was looked upon as a second Croesus, or a Crassus, who +could have bought the Roman empire; and his daughter's hand was sought +in marriage by peers. But all at once the mighty bubble collapsed. He +had advanced money to the Duke of York, and had received as security +property in Nova Scotia, consisting chiefly of mines, which, when he +began to work them, turned out valueless, after entailing enormous +expense. Loss upon loss succeeded, and in the end bankruptcy. I have +even heard that this man, once so envied for his wealth, died the +inmate of an almshouse. + +Some persons of rank, tempted by the offers of these usurers, lent +their money to them at a very high interest. A lady of some position +lent a thousand pounds to King, on the promise of receiving annually 15 +per cent.; which he continued to pay with the utmost regularity. Her +son being in want of money applied for a loan of a thousand pounds, +which King granted at the rate of 80 per cent.; lending him of course +his mother's money. In a moment of tenderness the young man told his +tale to her, when she immediately went to King and upbraided him for +not making her a party to his gains, and demanded her money back. King +refused to return it, saying that he had never engaged to return the +principal; and dared her to take any proceedings against him, as, being +a married woman, she had no power over the money. She, however, +acknowledged it to her husband, obtained his forgiveness, and after +threats of legal interference, King was compelled to refund the money, +besides losing much of his credit and popularity by the transaction. + + + + +LORD ALVANLEY + + +To Lord Alvanley was awarded the reputation, good or bad, of all the +witticisms in the clubs after the abdication of the throne of dandyism +by Brummell; who, before that time, was always quoted as the sayer of +good things, as Sheridan had been some time before. Lord Alvanley had +the talk of the day completely under his control, and was the arbiter +of the school for scandal in St. James's. A bon mot attributed to him +gave rise to the belief that Solomon caused the downfall and +disappearance of Brummell; for on some friends of the prince of dandies +observing that if he had remained in London something might have been +done for him by his old associates, Alvanley replied, "He has done +quite right to be off: it was Solomon's judgment." + +When Sir Lumley Skeffington, who had been a lion in his day--and whose +spectacle, the Sleeping Beauty, produced at a great expense on the +stage, had made him looked up to as deserving all the blandishments of +fashionable life--re-appeared some years after his complete downfall +and seclusion in the bench, he fancied that by a very gay external +appearance he would recover his lost position; but he found his old +friends very shy of him. Alvanley being asked, on one occasion, who +that smart-looking individual was, answered, "It is a second edition of +the Sleeping Beauty bound in calf, richly gilt, and illustrated by many +cuts." + +One of the gay men of the day, named Judge, being incarcerated in the +Bench, some one observed he believed it was the first instance of a +Judge reaching the bench without being previously called to the bar; to +which Alvanley replied, "Many a bad judge has been taken from the bench +and placed at the bar." He used to say that Brummell was the only +Dandelion that flourished year after year in the hot-bed of the +fashionable world: he had taken root. Lions were generally annual, but +Brummell was perennial, and quoted a letter from Walter Scott: "If you +are celebrated for writing verses, or for slicing cucumbers, for being +two feet taller, or two feet less, than any other biped, for acting +plays when you should be whipped at school, or for attending schools +and institutions when you should be preparing for your grave, your +notoriety becomes a talisman, an 'open sesame,' which gives way to +everything, till you are voted a bore, and discarded for a new +plaything." This appeared in a letter from Walter Scott to the Earl of +Dalkeith, when he himself, Belzoni, Master Betty the Roscius, and old +Joseph Lancaster, the schoolmaster, were the lions of the season, and +were one night brought together by my indefatigable old friend, Lady +Cork, who was "the Lady of Lyons" of that day. + + + + +GENERAL PALMER + + +This excellent man had the last days of his life embittered by the +money-lenders. He had commenced his career surrounded by every +circumstance that could render existence agreeable; fortune, in his +early days, having smiled most benignantly on him. His father was a +man of considerable ability, and was to the past generation what +Rowland Hill is in the present day--the great benefactor of +correspondents. He first proposed and carried out the mail-coach +system; and letters, instead of being at the mercy of postboys, and a +private speculation in many instances, became the care of Government, +and were transmitted under its immediate direction. + +During the lifetime of Mr. Palmer, the reward due to him for his +suggestions and his practical knowledge was denied; and he accordingly +went to Bath, and became the manager and proprietor of the theatre, +occasionally treading the boards himself, for which his elegant +deportment and good taste eminently qualified him. He has often been +mistaken for Gentleman Palmer, whose portrait is well drawn in the +Memoir of Sheridan by Dr. Sigmond, prefixed to Bohn's edition of +Sheridan's plays. Mr. Palmer was successful in his undertaking, and at +his death, his son found himself the inheritor of a handsome fortune, +and became a universal favourite in Bath. + +The corporation of that city, consisting of thirty apothecaries, were, +in those borough-mongering days, the sole electors to the House of +Commons, and finding young Palmer hospitable, and intimate with the +Marquis of Bath and Lord Camden, and likewise desiring for themselves +and their families free access to the most agreeable theatre in +England, returned him to Parliament. He entered the army and became a +conspicuous officer in the 10th Hussars, which, being commanded by the +Prince Regent, led him at once into Carlton House, the Pavilion at +Brighton, and consequently into the highest society of the country; for +which his agreeable manners, his amiable disposition, and his +attainments, admirably qualified him. His fortune was sufficiently +large for all his wants; but, unfortunately, as it turned out, the +House of Commons voted to him, as the representative of his father, +100,000£., which he was desirous of laying out to advantage. + +A fine opportunity, as he imagined, had presented itself to him; for, +in travelling in the diligence from Lyons to Paris, a journey then +requiring three days, he met a charming widow, who told a tale that had +not only a wonderful effect upon his susceptible heart, but upon his +amply-filled purse. She said her husband, who had been the proprietor +of one of the finest estates in the neighbourhood of Bordeaux, was just +dead, and that she was on her way to Paris to sell the property, that +it might be divided, according to the laws of France, amongst the +family. Owing, however, to the absolute necessity of forcing a sale, +that which was worth an enormous sum would realize one-quarter only of +its value. She described the property as one admirably fitted for the +production of wine; that it was, in fact, the next estate to the +Chateau Lafitte, and would prove a fortune to any capitalist. The +fascinations of this lady, and the temptation of enormous gain to the +speculator, impelled the gallant colonel to offer his services to +relieve her from her embarrassment; and by the time the diligence +arrived in Paris, he had become the proprietor of a fine domain, which +was soon irrevocably fixed on him by the lady's notary, in return for a +large sum of money: which, had the colonel proved a man of business, +would no doubt have been amply repaid, and might have become the source +of great wealth. + +Palmer, however, conscious of his inability, looked around him for an +active agent, and believed he had found one in a Mr. Gray, a man of +captivating manners and good connexions, but almost as useless a person +as the General himself. Fully confident in his own abilities, Gray had +already been concerned in many speculations, not one of which had ever +succeeded, but all had led to the demolition of large fortunes. +Plausible in his address, and possessing many of those superficial +qualities that please the multitude, he appeared to be able to secure +for the claret--which was the production of the estate--a large +clientele. Palmer's claret, under his auspices, began to be talked of +in the clubs; and the bon vivant was anxious to secure a quantity of +this highly-prized wine. The patronage of the Prince Regent was +considered essential, who, with his egotistical good nature, and from a +kindly feeling for Palmer, gave a dinner at Carlton House, when a fair +trial was to be given to his claret. A select circle of gastronomes +was to be present, amongst whom was Lord Yarmouth, well known in those +days by the appellation of "Red-herrings," from his rubicund whiskers, +hair, and face, and from the town of Yarmouth deriving its principal +support from the importation from Holland of that fish; Sir Benjamin +Bloomfield, Sir William Knighton, and Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, were also of +the party. The wine was produced, and was found excellent, and the +spirits of the party ran high; the light wine animating them without +intoxication. The Prince was delighted, and, as usual upon such +occasions, told some of his best stories, quoted Shakspeare, and was +particularly happy upon the bouquet of the wine as suited "to the holy +Palmer's kiss." + +Lord Yarmouth alone sat in moody silence, and, on being questioned as +to the cause, replied that whenever he dined at his Royal Highness's +table, he drank a claret which he much preferred--that which was +furnished by Carbonell. The Prince immediately ordered a bottle of this +wine; and to give them an opportunity of testing the difference, he +desired that some anchovy sandwiches should be served up. Carbonell's +wine was placed upon the table: it was a claret made expressly for the +London market, well-dashed with Hermitage, and infinitely more to the +taste of the Englishman than the delicately-flavoured wine they had +been drinking. The banquet terminated in the Prince declaring his own +wine superior to that of Palmer's, and suggesting that he should try +some experiments on his estate to obtain a better wine. Palmer come +from Carlton House much mortified. On Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt attempting +to console him, and saying that it was the anchovies that had spoiled +the taste of the connoisseurs, the general said loudly enough to be +heard by Lord Yarmouth, "No; it was the confounded red herrings." A +duel was very nearly the consequence. + +General Palmer, feeling it his duty to follow the advice of the Prince, +rooted out his old vines, planted new ones, tried all sorts of +experiments at an immense cost, but with little or no result. He and +his agent, in consequence, got themselves into all sorts of +difficulties, mortgaged the property, borrowed largely, and were at +last obliged to have recourse to usurers, to life assurances, and every +sort of expedient to raise money. The theatre at Bath was sold, the +Reform in Parliament robbed him of his seat, and at last he and his +agent became ruined men. A subscription would have been raised to +relieve him, but he preferred ending his days in poverty to living upon +the bounty of his friends. He sold his commission, and was plunged in +the deepest distress; while the accumulation of debt to the usurers +became so heavy, that he was compelled to pass through the Insolvent +Court. Thus ended the career of a man who had been courted in society, +idolized in the army, and figured as a legislator for many years. His +friends, of course, fell off, and he was to be seen a mendicant in the +streets of London--shunned where he once was adored. Gray, his agent, +became equally involved; but, marrying a widow with some money, he was +enabled to make a better fight. Eventually, however, he became a prey +to the money-lender, and his life ended under circumstances distressing +to those who had known him in early days. + + + + +"MONK" LEWIS + + +One of the most agreeable men of the day was "Monk" Lewis. As the +author of the Monk and the Tales of Wonder, he not only found his way +into the best circles, but had gained a high reputation in the literary +world. His poetic talent was undoubted, and he was intimately connected +with Walter Scott in his ballad researches. His Alonzo the Brave and +the Fair Imogene was recited at the theatres, and wherever he went he +found a welcome reception. His West Indian fortune and connections, +and his seat in Parliament, gave him access to all the aristocratic +circles; from which, however, he was banished upon the appearance of +the fourth and last dialogue of the Pursuits of Literature. Had a +thunderbolt fallen upon him, he could not have been more astonished +than he was by the onslaught of Mr. Matthias, which led to his +ostracism from fashionable society. + +It is not for me to appreciate the value of this satirical poem, which +created such an extraordinary sensation, not only in the fashionable, +but in the political world; I, however, remember that whilst at +Canning's, at the Bishop of London's, and at Gifford's, it was +pronounced the most classical and spirited production that had ever +issued from the press, it was held up at Lord Holland's, at the Marquis +of Lansdowne's, and at Brookes's, as one of the most spiteful and +ill-natured satires that had ever disgraced the literary world; and one +which no talent or classic lore could ever redeem. Certain it is, that +Matthias fell foul of poor "Monk" Lewis for his romance: obscenity and +blasphemy were the charges laid at his door; he was acknowledged to be +a man of genius and fancy, but this added only to his crime, to which +was superadded that of being a very young man. The charges brought +against him cooled his friends and heated his enemies; the young ladies +were forbidden to speak to him, matrons even feared him, and from being +one of the idols of the world, he became one of the objects of its +disdain. Even his father was led to believe that his son had abandoned +the paths of virtue, and was on the high road to ruin. + +"Monk" Lewis, unable to stand against the outcry thus raised against +him, determined to try the effects of absence, and took his departure +for the island in which his property was; but unfortunately for those +who dissented from the ferocious judgment that was passed upon him, and +for those who had discrimination enough to know that after all there +was nothing very objectionable in his romance, and felt assured that +posterity would do him justice, this amiable and kind-hearted man died +on his passage out; leaving a blank in one variety of literature which +has never been filled up. + +The denunciation was not followed by any other severe criticism; but +editors have, in compliance with the insinuations of Matthias, omitted +the passages which he pointed out as objectionable, so that the +original text is seldom met with. + +"Monk" Lewis had a black servant, affectionately attached to his +master; but so ridiculously did this servant repeat his master's +expressions, that he became the laughing-stock of all his master's +friends: Brummell used often to raise a hearty laugh at Carlton House +by repeating witticisms which he pretended to have heard from Lewis's +servant. Some of these were very stale; yet they were considered so +good as to be repeated at the clubs, greatly adding to the reputation +of the Beau as a teller of good things. "On one occasion," said +Brummell, "I called to inquire after a young lady who had sprained her +ancle; Lewis, on being asked how she was, had said in the black's +presence, 'The doctor has seen her, put her legs straight, and the poor +chicken is doing well.' The servant, therefore, told me, with a +mysterious and knowing look, 'Oh, sir, the doctor has been here; she +has laid eggs, and she and the chickens are doing well.'" + +Such extravagances in those days were received as the essence of wit, +and to such stories did the public give a willing ear, repeating them +with unwearying zest. Even Sheridan's wit partook of this character, +making him the delight of the Prince, who ruled over the fashionable +world, and whose approbation was sufficient to give currency to +anything, however ludicrous and absurd. + + + + +SIR THOMAS TURTON + + +There is a pleasure in recalling to memory even the school-boy pranks +of men who make a figure in the world. The career of Turton promised +to be a brilliant one; and had he not offended against the moral +feeling of the country, and lost his position, he would have mounted to +the highest step in the ladder of fortune. At Eton he showed himself a +dashing and a daring boy, and was looked upon by Dr. Goodall, the then +head master, as one of his best classical scholars; by his +schoolfellows he was even more highly regarded, being the acknowledged +"cock of the school." Amongst the qualities that endeared him to them +was a fearlessness which led him into dangers and difficulties, from +which his pluck only could extricate him. He was a determined poacher: +not one of the skulking class, but of a daring that led him to exert +his abilities in Windsor Park itself; where he contrived to bag game, +in spite of the watchfulness of the keepers and the surveillance of the +well-paid watchers of the night. On one occasion; however, by some +unlucky chance, tidings of his successes reached the ears of the royal +gamekeeper, who formed a plan by which to entrap him; and so nearly +were they pouncing upon Turton that he was obliged to take to his heels +and fly, carrying with him a hare which he had caught. The keepers +followed close upon his heels until they came to the Thames, into which +Turton plunged, and, still holding his prize by his teeth, swam to the +other side; to the astonishment and dismay of his pursuers, who had no +inclination for a cold bath: their mortification was great at seeing +Turton safely landed on the other side. He reached the college in +safety; and the hare served for the enjoyment of merry friends. + +Turton's history in after life I will not pursue; but must express my +regret that he threw away golden opportunities of showing his love for +classic lore, and his ability to meet the difficulties of life, in the +same bold way in which he swam the Thames and baffled the Windsor +gamekeepers. + + + + +GEORGE SMYTHE, THE LATE LORD STRANGFORD + + +This is another friend to whom I am pleased to pay the tribute of a +reminiscence, and who, if he was not as well known as most of those I +have spoken of, was yet highly prized by many of the most distinguished +persons, and formed one of a circle that had great influence in +England. Being the son of the well-known Lord Strangford, the +translator of Camoens, he had a first place in aristocratic society, +and had he not given himself up to indulgences and amusements, might +have reached the rank of statesman. The late Lord Strangford was +distinguished by those external qualifications which are everywhere +acceptable; his manners were polished and easy, his conversation +elegant and witty, and these, added to great personal attractions, gave +him a charm which was generally felt. Disraeli, Sir Edward Bulwer +Lytton, and the leading men of the day, were his associates. When Lord +Aberdeen became Minister for Foreign Affairs he selected George Smythe +as under secretary; in which capacity he acquitted himself with great +ability. He could not, however, act under Lord Palmerston, and rather +than do so gave up his position. He did not long survive, but died +very young; just as he was beginning to learn the value of his rare +abilities, and had ascertained how best they might have been of use to +his country. + + + + +THE HONOURABLE GEORGE TALBOT + + +I have a very vivid recollection of George Talbot, a brother of the +late Earl of Shrewsbury, and who was a fashionable man about town, of +whom there are many anecdotes in circulation. The only one that took +my fancy was related to me in Paris, where he was as usual in the midst +of the gayest of the gay, recklessly spending his money, and oftentimes +resorting for resources to the gambling-table, where at last he was +thoroughly pigeoned. + +Talbot had tried in vain all the usual means of recruiting his empty +purse. Being a Roman Catholic, like most of the members of one of the +oldest families in Great Britain, he was a regular attendant upon the +ceremonies of his Church, and acquainted with all the clergy in Paris; +so he took the resolution of going to his confessor, unburdening his +conscience, and at the same time seeking counsel from the holy father, +as to the best way of raising the wind. After entering minutely into +his condition, and asking the priest how he could find funds to pay his +debts and take him home, the confessor seemed touched by his tale of +woe, and after much apparent consideration recommended him to trust in +Providence. Talbot seemed struck with such sensible advice, and +promised to call again in a few days. This second visit was made in +due course; he again mourned over his condition, and requested the +priest's advice and assistance. His story was listened to as before, +with much commiseration, but he was again recommended to trust in +Providence. Talbot came away quite crest-fallen, and evidently with +little hope of any immediate relief. After the lapse of a few days, +however, he appeared again before his confessor, apparently much +elated, and invited the worthy abbe to dine with him at the Rocher du +Cancale. This invitation was gladly accepted, the holy father not +doubting but that he should have all the delicacies in the land, to +which, in common with the rest of the clergy, he had no objection; nor +was he disappointed. The dinner was recherche; the best the +establishment could furnish was placed before them, and most heartily +and lovingly did the worthy abbe devote himself to what was offered. +At the end of the repast the carte a payer was duly furnished; but what +was the astonishment of the reverend guest when Talbot declared that +his purse was completely au sec, and that it had been a long time +empty; but that upon this occasion, as upon all others, he trusted, as +the abbe had advised him, in Providence. The Abbe Pecheron, recovering +from his surprise, and being of a kind and generous disposition, +laughed heartily at Talbot's impudence, and feeling that he had +deserved this rebuke pulled out his purse, paid for the dinner, and did +what he should have done at first--wrote to the members of Talbot's +family, and obtained for him such assistance as enabled him to quit +Paris and return home, where he afterwards led a more sober life. + + + + +A DINNER AT SIR JAMES BLAND BURGES'S, IN LOWER BROOK STREET; AUTUMN, 1815 + + +I was once invited to dinner by Sir James Burges, father of my friend, +Captain Burges, of the Guards: it was towards the end of the season +1815. I there met, to my great delight, Lord Byron and Sir Walter +Scott; and amongst the rest of the company were Lord Caledon, and +Croker, the Secretary to the Admiralty. Sir James had been private +secretary to Pitt at the time of the French Revolution, and had a fund +of curious anecdotes about everything and everybody of note at the end +of the last century. I remember his telling us the now generally +received story of Pitt dictating a King's speech off-hand--then a more +difficult task than at the present day--without the slightest +hesitation; this speech being adopted by his colleagues nearly word for +word as it was written down. + +Walter Scott was quite delightful, appearing full of fire and +animation, and told some interesting anecdotes connected with his early +life in Scotland. I remember his proving himself, what would have been +called in the olden times he delighted to portray, "a stout +trencher-man." Nor were his attentions confined by any means to the +eatables; on the contrary, he showed himself worthy to have made a +third in the famous carousal in Ivanhoe, between the Black Knight and +the Holy Clerk of Copmanhurst. + +Byron, whom I had before seen at the shooting galleries and elsewhere, +was then a very handsome man, with remarkably fine eyes and hair; but +was, as usual, all show-off and affectation. I recollect his saying +that he disliked seeing women eat, or to have their company at dinner, +from a wish to believe, if possible, in their more ethereal nature; but +he was rallied into avowing that his chief dislike to their presence at +the festive board arose from the fact of their being helped first, and +consequently getting all the wings of the chickens, whilst men had to +be content with the legs or other parts. Byron, on this occasion, was +in great good humour, and full of boyish and even boisterous mirth. + +Croker was also agreeable, notwithstanding his bitter and sarcastic +remarks upon everything and everybody. The sneering, ill-natured +expression of his face, struck me as an impressive contrast to the +frank and benevolent countenance of Walter Scott. + +I never assisted at a more agreeable dinner. According to the custom of +the day, we sat late; the poets, statesmen, and soldiers, all drank an +immense quantity of wine, and I for one felt the effects of it next +day. Walter Scott gave one or two recitations, in a very animated +manner, from the ballads that he had been collecting, which delighted +his auditory; and both Lord Byron and Croker added to the hilarity of +the evening by quotations from, and criticisms on the more prominent +writers of the period. + + + + +LORD BYRON + + +I knew very little of Lord Byron personally, but lived much with two of +his intimate friends, Scrope Davis and Wedderburn Webster; from whom I +frequently heard many anecdotes of him. I regret that I remember so +few; and wish that I had written down those told me by poor Scrope +Davis, one of the most agreeable men I ever met. + +When Byron was at Cambridge, he was introduced to Scrope Davis by their +mutual friend, Matthews, who was afterwards drowned in the river Cam. +After Matthews's death, Davis became Byron's particular friend, and was +admitted to his rooms at all hours. Upon one occasion he found the +poet in bed with his hair en papillote, upon which Scrope cried, "Ha, +ha! Byron, I have at last caught you acting the part of the Sleeping +Beauty." + +Byron, in a rage, exclaimed, "No, Scrope; the part of a d----d fool, +you should have said." + +"Well, then, anything you please; but you have succeeded admirably in +deceiving your friends, for it was my conviction that your hair curled +naturally." + +"Yes, naturally, every night," returned the poet; "but do not, my dear +Scrope, let the cat out of the bag, for I am as vain of my curls as a +girl of sixteen." + +When in London, Byron used to go to Manton's shooting-gallery, in Davis +street, to try his hand, as he said, at a wafer. Wedderburn Webster +was present when the poet, intensely delighted with his own skill, +boasted to Joe Manton that he considered himself the best shot in +London. "No, my lord," replied Manton, "not the best; but your +shooting, to-day, was respectable;" upon which Byron waxed wroth, and +left the shop in a violent passion. + +Lords Byron, Yarmouth, Pollington, Mountjoy, Walliscourt, Blandford, +Captain Burges, Jack Bouverie, and myself, were in 1814, and for +several years afterwards, amongst the chief and most constant +frequenters of this well-known shooting-gallery, and frequently shot at +the wafer for considerable sums of money. Manton was allowed to enter +the betting list, and he generally backed me. On one occasion, I hit +the wafer nineteen times out of twenty. + +Byron lived a great deal at Brighton, his house being opposite the +Pavilion. He was fond of boating, and was generally accompanied by a +lad, who was said to be a girl in boy's clothes. This report was +confirmed to me by Webster, who was then living at Brighton. The vivid +description of the page in Lara, no doubt, gave some plausibility to +this often-told tale. I myself witnessed the dexterous manner in which +Byron used to get into his boat; for, while standing on the beach, I +once saw him vault into it with the agility of a harlequin, in spite of +his lame foot. + +On one occasion, whilst his lordship was dining with a few of his +friends in Charles Street, Pall Mall, a letter was delivered to Scrope +Davis, which required an immediate answer. Scrope, after reading its +contents, handed it to Lord Byron. It was thus worded:-- + + +"MY DEAR SCROPE,--Lend me 500£. for a few days; the funds are shut for +the dividends, or I would not have made this request. + +"G. BRUMMELL." + + +The reply was:-- + + +"My DEAR BRUMMELL,--All my money is locked up in the funds. + +"SCROPE DAVIS." + + +This was just before Brummell's escape to the Continent. + +I have frequently asked Scrope Davis his private opinion of Lord Byron, +and invariably received the same answer--that he considered Lord Byron +very agreeable and clever, but vain, overbearing, conceited, +suspicious, and jealous. Byron hated Palmerston, but liked Peel, and +thought that the whole world ought to be constantly employed in +admiring his poetry and himself: he never could write a poem or a drama +without making himself its hero, and he was always the subject of his +own conversation. + +During one of Henry Hobhouse's visits to Byron, at his villa near +Genoa, and whilst they were walking in the garden, his lordship +suddenly turned upon his guest, and, apropos of nothing, exclaimed, +"Now, I know, Hobhouse, you are looking at my foot." Upon which +Hobhouse kindly replied, "My dear Byron, nobody thinks of or looks at +anything but your head." + + + + +SHELLEY + + +Shelley, the poet, cut off at so early an age; just when his great +poetical talents had been matured by study and reflection, and when he +probably would have produced some great work, was my friend and +associate at Eton. He was a boy of studious and meditative habits, +averse to all games and sports, and a great reader of novels and +romances. He was a thin, slight lad, with remarkably lustrous eyes, +fine hair, and a very peculiar shrill voice and laugh. His most +intimate friend at Eton was a boy named Price, who was considered one +of the best classical scholars amongst us. At his tutor, Bethell's, +where he lodged, he attempted many mechanical and scientific +experiments. By the aid of a common tinker, he contrived to make +something like a steam-engine, which, unfortunately, one day suddenly +exploded; to the great consternation of the neighbourhood and to the +imminent danger of a severe flogging from Dr. Reate. + +Soon after leaving school, and about the year 1810, he came, in a state +of great distress and difficulty, to Swansea, when we had an +opportunity of rendering him a service; but we never could ascertain +what had brought him to Wales, though we had reason to suppose it was +some mysterious affaire du coeur. + +The last time I saw Shelley was at Genoa, in 1822, sitting on the +sea-shore, and, when I came upon him, making a true poet's meal of +bread and fruit; He at once recognized me, jumped up, and appearing +greatly delighted, exclaimed, "Here you see me at my old Eton habits; +but instead of the green fields for a couch, I have here the shores of +the Mediterranean. It is very grand, and very romantic. I only wish I +had some of the excellent brown bread and butter we used to get at +Spiers's: but I was never very fastidious in my diet." Then he +continued, in a wild and eccentric manner: "Gronow, do you remember the +beautiful Martha, the Hebe of Spiers's? She was the loveliest girl I +ever saw, and I loved her to distraction." + +Shelley was looking careworn and ill; and, as usual, was very +carelessly dressed. He had on a large and wide straw hat, his long +brown hair, already streaked with grey, flowing in large masses from +under it, and presented a wild and strange appearance. + +During the time I sat by his side he asked many questions about myself +and many of our schoolfellows; but on my questioning him in turn about +himself, his way of life, and his future plans, he avoided entering +into any explanation: indeed, he gave such short and evasive answers, +that, thinking my inquisitiveness displeased him, I rose to take my +leave. I observed that I had not been lucky enough to see Lord Byron +in any of my rambles, to which he replied, "Byron is living at his +villa, surrounded by his court of sycophants; but I shall shortly see +him at Leghorn." We then shook hands. I never saw him again; for he +was drowned shortly afterwards, with his friend, Captain Williams, and +his body was washed ashore near Via Reggio. Every one is familiar with +the romantic scene which took place on the sea-shore when the remains +of my poor friend and Captain Williams were burnt, in the presence of +Byron and Trelawney, in the Roman fashion. His ashes were gathered into +an urn, and buried in the Protestant cemetery at Rome. He was but +twenty-nine years of age at his death. + + + + +ROBERT SOUTHEY, THE POET + + +In the year 1803, my father received a letter of introduction from Mr. +Rees, of the well-known firm of Longman, Paternoster Row, presenting +Robert Southey, the poet, to him. He came into Wales with the hope of +finding a cottage to reside in. Accordingly, a cavalcade was formed, +consisting of Mr. W. Gwynne, the two brothers Southey, my father, and +myself, and we rode up the Valley of Neath to look at a cottage about +eight miles from the town. The poet, delighted with the scenery and +situation, decided upon taking it; but the owner, unfortunately for the +honour of Welshmen, actually declined to let it to Robert Southey, +fearing that a poet could not find security for the small annual rent +of twenty-five pounds. This circumstance led the man of letters, who +eventually became one of the most distinguished men of his day, to seek +a home elsewhere, and the Lakes were at length chosen as his residence. +Probably the picturesque beauties of Cumberland compensated the +Laureate for the indignity put upon him by the Welshman. + +An act of Vandalism perpetrated in the same Vale of Neath, and +reflecting no honour on my countrymen, deserves here to be noted with +reprobation. A natural cascade, called Dyllais, which was so beautiful +as to excite the admiration of travellers, was destroyed by an agent to +Lord Jersey, the proprietor of the estate, in order to build a few +cottages and the lock of a canal. The rock down which this beautiful +cascade had flowed from the time of the Flood, and which had created a +scene of beauty universally admired, was blown up with gunpowder by +this man, who could probably appreciate no more beautiful sight than +that which presents itself from a window in Gray's or Lincoln's Inn, of +which he was a member. + + + + +CAPTAIN HESSE, FORMERLY OF THE 18TH HUSSARS + + +One of my most intimate friends was the late Captain Hesse, generally +believed to be a son of the Duke of York, by a German lady of rank. +Though it is not my intention to disclose certain family secrets of +which I am in possession, I may, nevertheless, record some +circumstances connected with the life of my friend, which were familiar +to a large circle with whom I mixed. Hesse, in early youth, lived with +the Duke and Duchess of York; he was treated in such a manner by them +as to indicate an interest in him by their Royal Highnesses which could +scarcely be attributed to ordinary regard, and was gazetted a cornet in +the 18th Hussars at seventeen years of age. Shortly afterwards, he +went to Spain, and was present in all the battles in which his regiment +was engaged; receiving a severe wound in the wrist at the battle of +Vittoria. When this became known in England, a royal lady wrote to +Lord Wellington, requesting that he might be carefully attended to; +and, at the same time, a watch, with her portrait, was forwarded, which +was delivered to the wounded Hussar by Lord Wellington himself. When +he had sufficiently recovered, Hesse returned to England, and passed +much of his time at Oatlands, the residence of the Duchess of York; he +was also honoured with the confidence of the Princess Charlotte and her +mother, Queen Caroline. + +Many delicate and important transactions were conducted through the +medium of Captain Hesse; in fact, it was perfectly well known that he +played a striking part in many scenes of domestic life which I do not +wish to reveal. I may, however, observe that the Prince Regent sent +the late Admiral Lord Keith to Hesse's lodgings, who demanded, in his +Royal Highness's name, the restitution of the watch and letters which +had been sent him when in Spain. After a considerable amount of +hesitation, the Admiral obtained what he wanted the following day; +whereupon Lord Keith assured him that the Prince Regent would never +forget so great a mark of confidence, and that the heir to the throne +would ever afterwards be his friend. I regret to say, from personal +knowledge, that, upon this occasion the Prince behaved most +ungratefully and unfeelingly; for, after having obtained all he wanted, +he positively refused to receive Hesse at Carlton House. + +Hesse's life was full of singular incidents. He was a great friend of +the Queen of Naples, grandmother of the ex-Sovereign of the Two +Sicilies; in fact, so notorious was that liaison, that Hesse was +eventually expelled from Naples under an escort of gendarmes. He was +engaged in several affairs of honour, in which he always displayed the +utmost courage; and his romantic career terminated by his being killed +in a duel by Count L--, natural son of the first Napoleon. He died as +he had lived, beloved by his friends, and leaving behind him little but +his name and the kind thoughts of those who survived him. + + + + +VISITING IN THE COUNTRY + + +When I returned to London from Paris, in 1815, upon promotion, I was +accompanied by Colonel Brooke, who was good enough to invite me to pass +some time at his brother's, Sir R. Brookes, in Cheshire, upon the +occasion of the christening of his eldest son. The fete was truly +magnificent, and worthy of our excellent host; and all the great people +of the neighbouring counties were present. + +Soon afterwards I went to the Hale, a country house near Liverpool, +belonging to Mr. Blackburn, one of the oldest members of the House of +Commons, where many persons, who had been at Sir Richard Brookes's, met +again. Mr. Blackburn was extremely absent and otherwise odd: upon one +occasion I gave him a letter to frank, which he deliberately opened and +read in my presence; and on my asking him if it amused him, he replied +that he did not understand what it meant. Upon another occasion the +Duke of Gloucester, accompanied by Mr. Blackburn, went out to shoot +pheasants in the preserves near the Hale; when all of a sudden, Mr. B. +observing that the Duke's gun was cocked, asked his Royal Highness +whether he always carried his gun cocked. "Yes, Blackburn, always," +was the reply. + +"Well then, good morning, your Royal Highness; I will no longer +accompany you." + +At dinner Mr. Blackburn was very eccentric: he would never surrender +his place at table even to royalty; so the Duke was obliged to sit near +him. Whenever the royal servant filled the Duke's glass with wine and +water, Mr. B. invariably drank it off; until at length, the Duke asked +his servant for more wine and water, and anticipating a repetition of +the farce that had so often been played, drank it off, and said, "Well, +Blackburn, I have done you at last." After dinner the Duke and the men +went to join the ladies in the drawing-room, where the servant in royal +livery was waiting, holding a tray upon which was a cup of tea for the +Duke. Mr. Blackburn, observing the servant in waiting, and that nobody +took the cup of tea, determined on drinking it; but the domestic +retired a little, to endeavour to prevent it. Mr. Blackburn, however, +followed and persisted; Upon which the servant said, "Sir, it is for +his Royal Highness." + +"D---- his Royal Highness, I will have this tea." + +The Duke exclaimed, "That's right, Blackburn," and ordered the servant +to hand it to him. + + + + +COLONEL KELLY AND HIS BLACKING + + +Among the odd characters I have met with, I do not recollect anyone +more eccentric than the late Lieutenant-colonel Kelly, of the First +Foot Guards, who was the vainest man I ever encountered. He was a +thin, emaciated-looking dandy, but had all the bearing of the +gentleman. He was haughty in the extreme, and very fond of dress; his +boots were so well varnished that the polish now in use could not +surpass Kelly's blacking in brilliancy; his pantaloons were made of the +finest leather, and his coats were inimitable: in short, his dress was +considered perfect. + +His sister held the place of housekeeper to the Custom-house, and when +it was burnt down, Kelly was burnt with it, in endeavoring to save his +favorite boots. When the news of his horrible death became known, all +the dandies were anxious to secure the services of his valet, who +possessed the mystery of the inimitable blacking. Brummell lost no +time in discovering his place of residence, and asked what wages he +required; the servant answered, his late master gave him 150£. a-year, +but it was not enough for his talents, and he should require 200£.; +upon which Brummell said, "well, if you will make it guineas, I shall +be happy to attend upon you." The late Lord Plymouth eventually secured +this phoenix of valets at 200£. a-year, and bore away the sovereignty +of boots. + + + + +LORD ALLEN AND COUNT D'ORSAY + + +Lord Allen being rather the worse for drinking too much wine at dinner, +teased Count D'Orsay, and said some very disagreeable things, which +irritated him; when suddenly John Bush entered the club and shook hands +with the Count, who exclaimed, "Voila, la difference entre une bonne +bouche et une mauvaise haleine." + +The following bon mot was also attributed to the Count: General Ornano, +observing a certain nobleman--who, by some misfortune in his youth, +lost the use of his legs--in a Bath chair, which he wheeled about, and +inquiring the name of the English peer, D'Orsay answered, "Pere la +Chaise." + +The Count had many disciples among our men of fashion, but none of them +succeeded in copying the original. His death produced, both in London +and in Paris, a deep and universal regret. The Count's life has been +so well delineated in the public prints, that nothing I could say would +add to the praise that has been bestowed upon him. Perfectly natural +in manners and language, highly accomplished, and never betraying the +slightest affectation or pretension, he had formed friendships with +some of the noblest and most accomplished men in England. He was also +a great favourite in Paris, where he had begun to exercise his talent +as an artist, when death prematurely removed him from society. + + + + +Mr. PHELPS + + +Mr. Phelps, a chorus singer, and an excellent musician, with good looks +and address, contrived to ingratiate himself with the Marchioness of +Antrim, and was fortunate enough to marry her ladyship, by whose means +he was created a baronet, and allied to some of our most aristocratic +families. + + + + +THE LATE LORD BLOOMFIELD + + +The late Lord Bloomfield likewise owed his elevation to the Peerage to +his musical talents. When the Prince of Wales was living at the +Pavilion at Brighton, he wanted some one who could accompany him on the +violoncello, and having ascertained that Captain Bloomfield, of the +Royal Artillery, who was then at Brighton with his troop, was an +accomplished violoncello player, the captain was accordingly summoned +to appear before the Prince, at the Pavilion. From that night +commenced an intimacy which for many years existed between the Prince +and Captain Bloomfield; who for a considerable length of time was well +known in fashionable circles under the title of Sir Benjamin +Bloomfield. A court intrigue, headed by a fascinating marchioness, +caused him to be sent into splendid exile: this lady attributing to Sir +Benjamin Bloomfield her being compelled to send back some jewels which +had been presented to her by the Prince Regent; but which, it was +discovered, belonged to the Crown, and could not be alienated. Sir +Benjamin was created a Peer, and sent to Stockholm as ambassador, where +his affable manners and his unostentatious hospitality rendered him +exceedingly popular; and he became as great a favorite with Bernadotte +as he had been with the Prince Regent. The name of Bloomfield is at +this day respected in Sweden. + + + + +THE RIGHT HON. GEORGE CANNING + + +When Mr. Canning retired from Portugal, he was received at Paris with a +distinction and a deference perhaps never before bestowed on a foreign +diplomatist; he dined with Charles X. almost tete-a-tete, and was +scrambled for by the leading aristocracy of France. It happened that +he also dined, on one occasion, with the Bailly Ferret, who was the +oldest foreign ambassador in Paris; and it was generally understood +that Canning, who had the reputation of being a gourmand, and was not +in robust health at the time, never thoroughly recovered from these +Parisian hospitalities. A short time after, this great orator, and the +most brilliant statesman of the day, breathed his last at Chiswick, in +the same room in which Charles James Fox died. + + + + +MRS. BOEHM, OF ST. JAMES'S SQUARE + + +This lady used to give fashionable balls and masquerades, to which I +look back with much pleasure. The Prince Regent frequently honoured her +fetes with his presence. Mrs. Boehm, on one occasion, sent invitations +to one of her particular friends, begging him to fill them up, and +tickets were given by him to Dick Butler (afterwards Lord Glengal) and +to Mr. Raikes. Whilst they were deliberating in what character they +should go, Dick Butler--for by that name he was only then +known--proposed that Raikes should take the part of Apollo; which the +latter agreed to, provided Dick would be his lyre. The noble lord's +reputation for stretching the long bow rendered this repartee so +applicable, that it was universally repeated at the clubs. + + + + +DR. GOODALL, OF ETON + + +This gentleman was proverbially fond of punning. About the same time +that he was made Provost of Eton, he received, also, a Stall at +Windsor. A young lady of his acquaintance, while congratulating him on +his elevation, and requesting him to give the young ladies of Eton and +Windsor a ball during the vacation, happened to touch his wig with her +fan, and caused the powder to fly about. Upon which the doctor +exclaimed, "My dear, you see you can get the powder out of the canon, +but not the ball." + + + + +LORD MELBOURNE, THE DUKE OF LEINSTER, AND LORD NORMANBY + + +When Lord Melbourne offered the garter to the Duke of Leinster, his +grace is reported to have answered that he did not want it; adding, "It +will, no doubt, be eagerly accepted by one of your lordship's +supporters in the Upper House." On another occasion, when Lord +Normanby was soliciting Lord Melbourne to be made a marquis, the noble +Premier observed, in his jocular way, "Why, Normanby, you are not such +a d----d fool as to want that!" The favour, however, was eventually +granted. + + + + +THE DUKE OF GLOUCESTER + + +His Royal Highness, who was in the habit of saying very ludicrous +things, asked one of his friends in the House of Lords, on the occasion +when William IV. assented to Lord Grey's Proposition to pass the Reform +Bill coute qui coute, "Who is Silly Billy now?" This was in allusion +to the general opinion that was prevalent of the Royal Duke's weakness, +and which had obtained for him the sobriquet of "Silly Billy." + +The Duke frequently visited Cheltenham during the season. Upon one +occasion, he called upon Colonel Higgins, brother to the equerry of his +Royal Highness the Prince Regent, and, on inquiring of the servant if +his master was at home, received for answer, "My master is dying." + +"Dying!" repeated the Duke; "have you sent for a doctor?" + +"No, sir." + +His Royal Highness immediately ran back into the street, and, having +the good fortune to find a medical man, he requested him to come at +once to Colonel Higgins, as he was on the point of death. The Duke and +the doctor soon reached the colonel's house, and, after again asking +the servant how his master was, that functionary replied, "I told you, +sir, that he is dying." They mounted the staircase, and were rather +amused to find the reported invalid busily occupied in dyeing his hair. + + + + +LADY CORK + + +In 1819, this venerable lady lived in Old Burlington Street, where she +gave many parties, to persons of all nations, and contrived to bring +together foreigners from the wilds of America, the Cape of Good Hope, +and even savages from the isles of the Pacific; in fact, she was the +notorious lion-hunter of her age. It was supposed that she had a +peculiar ignorance of the laws of meum and tuum, and that her monomania +was such that she would try to get possession of whatever she could +place her hands upon; so that it was dangerous to leave in the +ante-room anything of value. On application being made, however, the +articles were usually returned the following day, the fear of the law +acting strongly upon her ladyship's bewildered brain. + + + + +THE DUCHESS OF GORDON + + +This leader of fashion, who was wont to be the admiration of all +circles, was looked upon as the most ambitious of women, and her vanity +was fully gratified by the marriage of her daughters to the first +people in the realm--the Dukes of Richmond, Manchester, and Bedford, +and the Marquis of Cornwallis. + + + + +THE LATE MRS. BRADSHAW (MARIA TREE) + + +The two Miss Trees, Maria and Ellen (the latter now Mrs. Kean), were +the great favourites of the Bath Stage for many seasons before they +became leading stars in London. Miss Ellen Tree made her first +appearance in a grand entertainment, called the Cataract of the Ganges, +in a magnificent car drawn by six horses. Her beauty made a deep +impression on the audience, which was naturally increased by her +subsequent exhibition of great talents. + +Miss Maria Tree was much admired as a vocalist, and her Viola, in +Twelfth Night, was one of the most popular performances of the day. +Mr. Bradshaw became desperately enamoured of her during her engagement +in London, and having learnt that she was about to go by the mail coach +to Birmingham, where she was to perform her principal characters, +thought it a favourable opportunity of enjoying her society; so he sent +his servant to secure him a place by the mail, under the name of +Tomkins. At the appointed time for departure, Mr. Bradshaw was at the +office, and jumping into the coach was soon whirled away; but great was +his disappointment at finding that the fair object of his admiration +was not a fellow-passenger: he was not consoled by discovering that +there were two mails, the one the Birmingham, mail, the other the +Birmingham and Manchester, and that whilst he was journeying by the +latter, Miss Tree was travelling in the other. + +On arriving at Birmingham, early in the morning, he left the coach and +stepped into the hotel, determined to remain there, and go to the +theatre on the following evening. He went to bed, and slept late the +following day; and on waking he remembered that his trunk with all his +money had gone on to Manchester, and that he was without the means of +paying his way. Seeing the Bank of Birmingham opposite the hotel, he +went over and explained his position to one of the partners, giving his +own banker's address in London, and showing letters addressed to him as +Mr. Bradshaw. Upon this he was told that with such credentials he might +have a loan; and the banker said he would write the necessary letter +and cheque, and send the money over to him at the hotel. Mr. Bradshaw, +pleased with this kind attention, sat himself down comfortably to +breakfast in the coffee-room. According to promise, the cashier made +his appearance at the hotel, and asked the waiter for Mr. Bradshaw. + +"No such gentleman here," was the reply. + +"Oh, yes, he came by the London mail." + +"No, sir; no one came but Mr. Tomkins, who was booked as inside +passenger to Manchester." + +The cashier was dissatisfied; but the waiter added, "Sir, you can look +through the window of the coffee-room door, and see the gentleman +yourself." + +On doing so, he beheld the Mr. Tomkins, alias Mr. Bradshaw, and +immediately returned to the Bank, telling what he himself had heard and +seen. The banker went over to the hotel, had a consultation with the +landlord, and it was determined that a watch should be placed upon the +suspicious person who had two names and no luggage, and who was booked +to Manchester but had stopped at Birmingham. + +The landlord summoned boots--a little lame fellow, of most ludicrous +appearance,--and pointing to the gentleman in the coffee-room, told him +his duty for the day was to follow him wherever he went, and never to +lose sight of him; but above all to take care that he did not get away. +Boots nodded assent, and immediately mounted guard. Mr. Bradshaw +having taken his breakfast and read the papers, looked at his watch, +and sallied forth to see something of the goodly town of Birmingham. He +was much surprised at observing a little odd-looking man surveying him +most attentively, and watching his every movement; stopping whenever he +stopped, and evidently taking a deep interest in all he did. At last, +observing that he was the object of this incessant espionage, and +finding that he had a shilling left in his pocket, he hailed one of the +coaches that ran short distances in those days when omnibuses were not. +This, however, did not suit little boots, who went up to him and +insisted that he must not leave the town. + +Mr. Bradshaw's indignation was naturally excessive, and he immediately +returned to the hotel, where he found a constable ready to take him +before the mayor as an impostor and swindler. He was compelled to +appear before his worship, and had the mortification of being told that +unless he could give some explanation, he must be content with a +night's lodging in a house of detention. Mr. Bradshaw had no +alternative but to send to the fair charmer of his heart to identify +him; which she most readily did, as soon as rehearsal was over. +Explanations were then entered into; but he was forced to give the +reason of his being in Birmingham, which of course made a due +impression on the lady's heart, and led to that happy result of their +interviews--a marriage which resulted in the enjoyment of mutual +happiness for many years. + + + + +LADIES' JEWELLERY AND LOVERS + + +Some of the most magnificent fortunes of England have, in the first +instance, been undermined by an extravagant expenditure on jewellery, +which has been given to ladies, married and unmarried, who have +fascinated their wealthy admirers and made them their slaves. Hamlet, +and Rundell and Bridge, were in my day patronized by the great, and +obtained large sums of money from their enamoured clients, to whom they +often became bankers. + +On the day after the coronation of George IV., Hamlet made his +appearance at the house of Mr. Coutts, in Piccadilly, the corner of +Stratton Street. It was during dinner; but, owing no doubt to a +previous arrangement, he was at once admitted, when he placed before +the rich banker a magnificent diamond cross, which had been worn the +previous day by the Duke of York. It at once attracted the admiration +of Mrs. Coutts, who loudly exclaimed, "How happy I should be with such +a splendid specimen of jewellery." "What is it worth?" immediately +exclaimed Mr. Coutts. "I could not allow it to pass out of my +possession for less than 15,000£.," said the wary tradesman. "Bring me +a pen and ink," was the only answer made by the doting husband; and he +at once drew a cheque for that amount upon the bank in the Strand; and +with much delight the worthy old gentleman placed the jewel upon the +fair bosom of the lady: + + "Upon her breast a sparkling cross she wore, + Which Jews might kiss, and infidels adore." + +The Earl of C--, whose reputation in the sporting world was of the +highest order, and who had obtained some notoriety by his amours, fell +into the hands of Hamlet, who was known to the aristocracy by his mock +title of "Prince of Denmark." Hamlet placed before him, on one +occasion, jewels to the amount of thirty thousand pounds, and +volunteered, as his client was not of age, to give him credit for +several months. The offer was accepted, and the brilliant present +became the possession of a young lady, one of the Terpsichorean tribe +(Mademoiselle Le G.), whose charms had captivated the youthful +nobleman, and who had so irrevocably fascinated him by the expression +of her love, awakened by the prospect of a rich remuneration, that she +accepted him as the sole possessor of a heart which had been before at +the disposal of any rich admirer whose purse was worthy her +consideration. + +This lady, who is now somewhat advanced in years, but has still the +remains of beauty, is living in France upon her estate; the produce of +the many charms which she once possessed, and which she turned to such +advantage, as to make her society even up to this day courted by those +who look upon wealth as the great source of distinction, and who are +willing to disbelieve any stories that they may accidentally hear of +her previous history. + + + + +THE LATE LORD HENRY SEYMOUR + + +I knew Lord Henry perhaps better than any other Englishman, having +lived with him on terms of great intimacy. He was famous for his +racing stud and good taste in his carriages and riding-horses. It was +said, by persons who were little acquainted with him, that he was fond +of masquerades, fighting, and was also the terror of pugilists, from +his great strength and science in boxing; on the contrary, he was a +gentle, retiring, and humane man, and never was known to have been +present at a masquerade, or any place of the sort. But it +unfortunately happened that a man named "Franconi," of the Circus--a +low-born and vulgar fellow--resembled him in looks and stature, and +having been mistaken for my noble friend gave himself out as Lord +Seymour in those dens of infamy, where the noble lord was unknown. + +Lord Henry was a man of fine taste, and fond of the arts, and, at his +death, his paintings, library, and plate fetched a considerable sum at +public auction. During his lifetime he patronized young artists: often +advancing them money, and assisting them in every possible way. + +Lord Henry Seymour was the founder of the French Jockey Club, and, in +conjunction with the late Duke de Gramont (better known in England as +the Count de Guiche), made racing in France what it now is: that is, +they placed the turf upon a respectable footing. Lord Henry +established a school of arms and gymnasium in his hotel on the +Boulevard des Italiens, which became the most celebrated in Europe. He +himself was an adept in the art of fencing, his skill was considered by +the professors to be incomparable. + +His kindness of heart and unostentatious generosity were his noblest +qualities. One morning, whilst we were breakfasting in his library, a +friend entered, and, with a sad countenance, informed Lord Henry that +he had that morning been visiting an old friend of his, a man of good +birth, who, with his wife and children, were absolutely starving, and +that they were reduced to sleep upon straw. Lord Henry, touched by +this painful information, asked where those poor people were to be +found, and being told, he said not a word more, but ordered his +carriage and went out. The next morning the same gentleman made his +appearance, and said, "I call to tell you, Seymour, that I am just come +from my poor friend, who, I am happy to say, has received relief, in +the shape of furniture, bedding, linen, and food, from some kind +person, who also left a considerable sum of money to purchase wearing +apparel for the family." + +Seymour never moved a muscle of his face, and we were wondering from +whence the relief came, when a fine-looking fellow entered, bowing in +the most respectful manner, and addressed his lordship in the following +terms:--"My lord, I am obliged to confess that I have taken some +trouble to discover the name of our benefactor, and, from all I have +been able to learn, it cannot be any other than your lordship; I +therefore deem it my duty, on behalf of my wife, children, and self, to +return you my heartfelt thanks for this unexampled act of charity +towards a perfect stranger." The poor fellow shed tears in thus +addressing his lordship, who kindly gave him his hand, and promised to +be his friend for the future; which promise he fulfilled, by procuring +him a place under the Government, that enabled him to live happily and +bring up his family with honour and comfort. + + + + +FRANCE AND THE FRENCH + + +I will not permit this little volume to make its appearance in English +society, without a few words about a people with whom I have mingled +for nearly forty years. When I first came to France, few of my +countrypeople travelled, save those belonging to the rich and +aristocratic classes; it was not, therefore, surprising that those +whose interest it might have been, on both sides of the Channel, to +create a bad feeling between England and France, found little +difficulty in doing so. An Englishman was taught to hate the French as +well as to observe the Ten Commandments; and a Frenchman, on the other +hand, was educated with the idea that his only enemy on the face of the +earth was an Englishman. + +I regard this stimulated hostile feeling between two nations which must +ever influence the welfare of the human race more than any others, as +one of the greatest calamities that could curse humanity. We have only +to read history from the days of Agincourt up to our later struggles +with Napoleon I., to come to the conclusion that the two bravest and +the most intelligent nations on the face of the earth have, from +DYNASTIC ambition, and a want of the people knowing each other, been +ever engaged in inflicting mutual disasters, which have impeded for +centuries the progress, civilization, and prosperity of both; whilst +the want of a proper understanding between the two countries has +materially aided in retarding other nations in obtaining that political +emancipation necessary to the happiness of mankind. + +I have lived through a period characterized by sanguinary wars and huge +national debts, and have remained in this world long enough to +calculate their results. I am afraid we must often be content with +that empty glory which lives only in the pages of history. A battle +fought fifty years ago appears very often of no more utility than the +splendid tomb of a Necropolis. Events and objects for which men by +thousands were brought together in deadly combat assume, a few years +afterwards, mighty small proportions; and those who have taken part in +deadly struggles, at a later period marvel at the enthusiasm which then +animated them. I am no believer in that era of happiness which some +divines imagine to be so near at hand; nor do I imagine that the next +two or three hundred years will witness the sword turned into the +reaping-hook of peaceful industry; but what I do believe in, and what I +hope for, is that nations will know each other better than they did of +old. It will be more difficult for sovereigns and governments to bring +about wars between neighboring nations now, than it was before the +existence of that intercommunication which in our day has been created +by the press, the railway, and the electric telegraph. + +I have lived long enough to find hundreds of my countrymen +participating in a real knowledge of the French, and believing with me +that they are a brave, intelligent, and generous nation. Nearly half a +century of experience amongst them has taught me that there is much to +learn and much that is worthy of imitation in France. The social habits +of the French, and their easy mode of communication, always gain the +admiration, and often invite the attachment of foreigners. They are +less prejudiced than we islanders, and are much more citizens of the +world than ourselves. I have received an immense amount of courtesy in +France; and if there be less of solid friendship--which, however, in +England is based too often on a similarity of birth, position, and +wealth--in France, you have, at least, a greater chance than in England +of making a friend of a man who neither looks to your ancestors nor +your amount of riches before he proffers you the most sincere intimacy, +and, if necessary, disinterested aid, purely on the ground of your own +merit and character. + +Many of the better qualities of the French are not discoverable by the +superficial traveller, any more than the sterling qualities of the +Englishman are appreciated by the foreigner who makes a brief sojourn +in Great Britain. Slowly, but, I believe, surely, the agreeable +knowledge that I possess of the French is becoming more universal; and +I cannot but imagine that such a correct appreciation will be fraught +with the most valuable political as well as social results. + +Intelligent Englishmen have lived long enough to appreciate the genius +of Napoleon I., whose mode of governing France has been applied by +Napoleon III. with a success which prejudice even has been compelled to +acknowledge. But I remember a period when probably not a dozen +Englishmen could have been found to speak of the first Emperor with the +most ordinary common sense. I will, however, record one honourable +exception to the rule. The late Lord Dudley and Ward, an eccentric, but +able man, was at Vienna, in the midst of a large party, who were all +more or less abusing or depreciating the fallen hero, whose very name +had so long created fear and hatred amongst them. It was naturally +supposed that the Englishman who was silently listening to this +conversation must of course, as the natural enemy of France, approve of +all that had been said. Prince Metternich turned at last to his guest, +and said, "Et vous, my Lord, que pensez vous de Napoleon?" "Je pense," +replied Lord Dudley, "qu'il a rendu la gloire passee douteuse, et la +renommee future impossible." + +As an old soldier and an admirer of the Duke of Wellington, I cannot +altogether admit the entire justice of the observation; yet, spoken by +an Englishman to the enemies of the exiled Emperor, it was a gallant +homage paid to fallen greatness. + +The great man who now wields the destinies of France possesses many of +the remarkable qualities of the founder of his dynasty: his energetic +will, his extensive and varied knowledge, his aptitude for government, +his undaunted bravery, and that peculiar tact which leads him to say +the right thing at the right time. But to these rare gifts he joins +the most princely generosity, and a kind and gentle heart: he has never +been known to forsake a friend, or leave unrewarded any proofs of +devotion shown to him in his days of exile. He is adored by the vast +majority of the French nation, and even his political opponents, if +accidentally brought under the influence of his particularly winning +and gracious manner, are, in spite of themselves, charmed and softened. + +There can be no doubt that Napoleon III. enjoys a well-merited +popularity, and that there is throughout all classes a deep and earnest +confidence that the honour and glory of France are safe in his hands. + +It is just this mighty power, founded on the love and trust of his +people, which is the surest pledge that peace will be maintained +between our country and France. Napoleon III. does not require to +court popularity by pandering to the anti-English prejudices still +retained by a small minority of his subjects; and, unlike the +representatives of less popular dynasties, he can afford to show that +he is not only the beloved and mighty ruler of the French nation, but +also the firm ally and faithful friend of England. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Reminiscences of Captain Gronow, by +Rees Howell Gronow + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF CAPTAIN GRONOW *** + +***** This file should be named 3798-8.txt or 3798-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/9/3798/ + +Produced by Tobias D. Robison and Pam Wisniewski. 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Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/3798-8.zip b/3798-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dca0e82 --- /dev/null +++ b/3798-8.zip diff --git a/3798-h.zip b/3798-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4f23a44 --- /dev/null +++ b/3798-h.zip diff --git a/3798-h/3798-h.htm b/3798-h/3798-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ba9b4e3 --- /dev/null +++ b/3798-h/3798-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6671 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<HTML> +<HEAD> + +<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> + +<TITLE> +The Project Gutenberg E-text of Reminiscences of Captain Gronow, by Rees Howell Gronow +</TITLE> + +<STYLE TYPE="text/css"> +BODY { color: Black; + background: White; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; + text-align: justify } + +P {text-indent: 4% } + +P.noindent {text-indent: 0% } + +P.poem {text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-size: small } + +P.letter {text-indent: 0%; + font-size: small ; + margin-left: 10% ; + margin-right: 10% } + +P.finis { font-size: larger ; + text-align: center ; + text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 0% ; + margin-right: 0% } + +</STYLE> + +</HEAD> + +<BODY> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Reminiscences of Captain Gronow, by Rees Howell Gronow + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Reminiscences of Captain Gronow + +Author: Rees Howell Gronow + +Posting Date: May 19, 2009 [EBook #3798] +Release Date: February, 2003 +First Posted: September 13, 2001 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF CAPTAIN GRONOW *** + + + + +Produced by Tobias D. Robison and Pam Wisniewski. HTML +version by Al Haines. + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<BR><BR> + +<H1 ALIGN="center"> +Reminiscences of Captain Gronow +</H1> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +by +</H3> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +Captain Rees Howell Gronow +</H2> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE +</H3> + +<P> +The spelling in this book is rather creative (including the occasional +spelling of "ankle" as "ancle"), and the punctuation is remarkably +varied. I have tried to preserve both, except that the spaces between a +word and the following colon or semicolon have been removed. There are +also many French words and phrases, whose meaning will usually be +obvious as soon as you realise they are French. Of course I apologize +for any genuine errors in spelling and punctuation that have crept into +this file. +</P> + +<P> +Captain Gronow is an entertaining raconteur who brings his own +experiences in the Regency period and the wars with France delightfully +to life. Gronow published several sets of memoirs. This file covers +the first half of what he published. Search the web for "Captain +Gronow" to learn more about this interesting gentleman. +</P> + +<P> +The text is arranged as a series of topics, each with a title in +capital letters. Sometimes there is continuity in this arrangement, +sometimes there is not. There is no other structure to the text. +</P> + +<P> +I have used the character for "pounds" (money) in this text: '£'. If +the character in single quotes does not look like a pound sign to you, +well, at least you know what is intended. The book text uses a lower +case 'l' for this purpose, but in computer fonts the 'l', looking just +like a '1' when following a string of digits, is confusing. +</P> + +<P> +Many thanks to Pam Wisniewski for proofreading this text. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +—Tobias D. Robison, September, 2001 tdr21@columbia.edu +</P> + +<BR><BR> + +<HR> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H1 ALIGN="center"> +Reminiscences of Captain Gronow +</H1> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +Formerly of the Grenadier Guards, and M.P. for Stafford: +<BR> +being +<BR> +Anecdotes of the camp, the court, and the clubs, <BR> +at the close of the last war with France. +<BR> +Related by himself. +</H4> + +<BR><BR> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + "O friends regretted, scenes for ever dear!<BR> + Remembrance hails you with her warmest tear!<BR> + Drooping she bends o'er pensive fancy's urn,<BR> + To trace the hours which never can return."<BR> +</P> + +<BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +London: +<BR> +Smith, Elder and Co., 65, Cornhill. +<BR> +M.DCCC.LXII. +</H4> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +CONTENTS +</H2> + +<H4> + <A HREF="#fewwords">A FEW WORDS TO THE READER</A><BR> + <A HREF="#army">MY ENTRANCE INTO THE ARMY</A><BR> + <A HREF="#spain">DEPARTURE FOR AND ARRIVAL IN SPAIN</A><BR> + <A HREF="#uniform">THE UNIFORM AND BEARING OF THE FRENCH SOLDIER</A><BR> + <A HREF="#stewart">MAJOR-GENERAL STEWART AND LORD WELLINGTON</A><BR> + <A HREF="#jeandeluz">ST. JEAN DE LUZ</A><BR> + <A HREF="#foolhardiness">FOOLHARDINESS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#discipline">DISCIPLINE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#johnwaters">SIR JOHN WATERS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#nivelle">THE BATTLE OF THE NIVELLE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#adour">THE PASSAGE OF THE ADOUR</A><BR> + <A HREF="#bordeaux">ARRIVAL OF THE GUARDS AT BORDEAUX</A><BR> + <A HREF="#clarke1">MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#clarke2">MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE AND COL. WARDLE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#society">SOCIETY IN LONDON IN 1814</A><BR> + <A HREF="#catalani">THE ITALIAN OPERA.—CATALANI</A><BR> + <A HREF="#dining">DINING AND COOKERY IN ENGLAND FIFTY YEARS AGO</A><BR> + <A HREF="#prince">THE PRINCE REGENT</A><BR> + <A HREF="#charlotte">PRINCESS CHARLOTTE OF WALES AT A FETE IN THE YEAR 1813, AT CARLTON HOUSE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#brummell">BEAU BRUMMELL</A><BR> + <A HREF="#coates">ROMEO COATES</A><BR> + <A HREF="#hydepark">HYDE PARK AFTER THE PENINSULAR WAR</A><BR> + <A HREF="#hotels">LONDON HOTELS IN 1814</A><BR> + <A HREF="#clubs">THE CLUBS OF LONDON IN 1814</A><BR> + <A HREF="#characters">REMARKABLE CHARACTERS OF LONDON ABOUT THE YEARS 1814, 1815, 1816</A><BR> + <A HREF="#guards">THE GUARDS MARCHING FROM ENGHIEN ON THE 15TH OF JUNE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#quatrebras">QUATRE BRAS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#waterloo">GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE FIELD OF WATERLOO</A><BR> + <A HREF="#wellington">THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON IN OUR SQUARE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#cavalry">THE FRENCH CAVALRY CHARGING THE BRUNSWICKERS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#charge">THE LAST CHARGE AT WATERLOO</A><BR> + <A HREF="#huguemont">HUGUEMONT</A><BR> + <A HREF="#byng">BYNG WITH HIS BRIGADE AT WATERLOO</A><BR> + <A HREF="#richmond">THE LATE DUKE OF RICHMOND</A><BR> + <A HREF="#unfortunate">THE UNFORTUNATE CHARGE OF THE HOUSEHOLD BRIGADE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#opinion">THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON'S OPINION OF THE FRENCH CAVALRY</A><BR> + <A HREF="#excelmann">MARSHAL EXCELMANN'S OPINION OF THE BRITISH CAVALRY</A><BR> + <A HREF="#paris">APPEARANCE OF PARIS WHEN THE ALLIES ENTERED</A><BR> + <A HREF="#ney">MARSHAL NEY AND WELLINGTON</A><BR> + <A HREF="#palais">THE PALAIS ROYAL AFTER THE RESTORATION</A><BR> + <A HREF="#bourbons">THE ENGLISH IN PARIS AFTER THE RESTORATION OF THE BOURBONS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#anglaises">LES ANGLAISES POUR RIRE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#coaching">COACHING AND RACING IN 1815</A><BR> + <A HREF="#cafes">PARISIAN CAFES IN 1815</A><BR> + <A HREF="#armies">REVIEW OF THE ALLIED ARMIES BY THE ALLIED SOVEREIGNS IN PARIS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#russian">CONDUCT OF THE RUSSIAN AND PRUSSIAN SOLDIERS DURING THE OCCUPATION<BR> + OF PARIS BY THE ALLIES</A><BR> + <A HREF="#embassy">THE BRITISH EMBASSY IN PARIS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#lavalette">ESCAPE OF LAVALETTE FROM PRISON</A><BR> + <A HREF="#duelling">DUELLING IN FRANCE IN 1815</A><BR> + <A HREF="#pistol">PISTOL SHOOTING</A><BR> + <A HREF="#faubourg">THE FAUBOURG ST. GERMAIN</A><BR> + <A HREF="#salon">THE SALON DES ETRANGERS IN PARIS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#deberri">THE DUCHESS DE BERRI AT MASS AT THE CHAPELLE ROYALE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#westmoreland">LORD WESTMORELAND</A><BR> + <A HREF="#alderman">ALDERMAN WOOD</A><BR> + <A HREF="#opera">THE OPERA</A><BR> + <A HREF="#elssler">FANNY ELSSLER</A><BR> + <A HREF="#charles">CHARLES X. AND LOUIS PHILIPPE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#thanet">LORD THANET</A><BR> + <A HREF="#granville">LORD GRANVILLE, THE BRITISH AMBASSADOR</A><BR> + <A HREF="#blucher">MARSHAL BLUCHER</A><BR> + <A HREF="#jew">JEW MONEY-LENDERS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#alvanley">LORD ALVANLEY</A><BR> + <A HREF="#palmer">GENERAL PALMER</A><BR> + <A HREF="#monk">"MONK" LEWIS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#turton">SIR THOMAS TURTON</A><BR> + <A HREF="#smythe">GEORGE SMYTHE, THE LATE LORD STRANGFORD</A><BR> + <A HREF="#talbot">THE HONOURABLE GEORGE TALBOT</A><BR> + <A HREF="#burges">A DINNER AT SIR JAMES BLAND BURGES'S, IN LOWER BROOK STREET; AUTUMN, 1815</A><BR> + <A HREF="#byron">LORD BYRON</A><BR> + <A HREF="#shelley">SHELLEY</A><BR> + <A HREF="#southey">ROBERT SOUTHEY, THE POET</A><BR> + <A HREF="#hesse">CAPTAIN HESSE, FORMERLY OF THE 18TH HUSSARS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#visiting">VISITING IN THE COUNTRY</A><BR> + <A HREF="#kelly">COLONEL KELLY AND HIS BLACKING</A><BR> + <A HREF="#allen">LORD ALLEN AND COUNT D'ORSAY</A><BR> + <A HREF="#phelps">Mr. PHELPS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#bloomfield">THE LATE LORD BLOOMFIELD</A><BR> + <A HREF="#canning">THE RIGHT HON. GEORGE CANNING</A><BR> + <A HREF="#boehm">MRS. BOEHM, OF ST. JAMES'S SQUARE</A><BR> + <A HREF="#goodall">DR. GOODALL, OF ETON</A><BR> + <A HREF="#melbourne">LORD MELBOURNE, THE DUKE OF LEINSTER, AND LORD NORMANBY</A><BR> + <A HREF="#gloucester">THE DUKE OF GLOUCESTER</A><BR> + <A HREF="#cork">LADY CORK</A><BR> + <A HREF="#duchess">THE DUCHESS OF GORDON</A><BR> + <A HREF="#bradshaw">THE LATE MRS. BRADSHAW (MARIA TREE)</A><BR> + <A HREF="#jewellery">LADIES' JEWELLERY AND LOVERS</A><BR> + <A HREF="#seymour">THE LATE LORD HENRY SEYMOUR</A><BR> + <A HREF="#france">FRANCE AND THE FRENCH</A><BR> +</H4> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="fewwords"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +A FEW WORDS TO THE READER +</H3> + +<P> +It has been my lot to have lived through the greater part of one of the +most eventful centuries of England's history, and I have been thrown +amongst most of the remarkable men of my day; whether soldiers, +statesman, men of letters, theatrical people, or those whose birth and +fortune—rather, perhaps, than their virtues or talents—have caused +them to be conspicuous in society at home or abroad. Nature having +endowed me with a strong memory, I can recall with all their original +vividness scenes that took place fifty years ago, and distinctly +recollect the face, walk, and voice, as well as the dress and general +manner, of everyone whom I have known. I have frequently repeated to my +friends what I have seen and heard since the year that I joined the +Guards (1813), and have been urged to commit to paper my anecdotes and +reminiscences. +</P> + +<P> +Unfortunately, I have not the power of efficiently describing in words +the pictures that are hung up in the long gallery of my memory: a man +may see very distinctly the landscape before him, yet he may be unable +to delineate that which he gazes upon and is intimately acquainted +with. A viva voce narrative of an incident told to a friend in +conversation may pass muster, and one is able to fill up any gaps in an +imperfect description; but it always occurred to me that I had no right +to task a reader's time and patience unless I could put before him what +I had to say in a lucid and complete form; I therefore refrained from +committing myself to print. I have at length, however, yielded to the +suggestion of friends, and written down some anecdotes in the best way +I could. Soldiers are not generally famous for literary excellence, and +when I was young, the military man was, perhaps, much less a scholar +than he is at the present day; but I hope that the interest of the +matter will make up for any deficiency of style. +</P> + +<P> +In going over more than half a century, and treating of men, women and +events, it was necessary to leave out many anecdotes which would, +perhaps, have been more interesting than most of those that I have +given; for I would not willingly offend, or hurt the feelings of any +one, and I wish to respect the memory of the dead, as well as to take +into consideration the sensitiveness of the living. My Reminiscences, +it will be seen, are nothing more than miniature illustrations of +contemporary history; and though the reader may find here and there +scraps of biographical matter, I confine myself to facts and +characteristics which were familiar to the circle in which I moved, and +perhaps are as much public property as the painted portraits of +celebrities. +</P> + +<P> +Should this work meet with the approbation of the public, I hope at a +future time to publish an additional one, as my memory still serves me +with sufficient materials for another volume of a similar kind. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +R. H. Gronow. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="army"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +MY ENTRANCE INTO THE ARMY +</H3> + +<P> +After leaving Eton, I received an Ensign's commission in the First +Guards during the month of December, 1812. Though many years have +elapsed, I still remember my boyish delight at being named to so +distinguished a regiment, and at the prospect of soon taking a part in +the glorious deeds of our army in Spain. I joined in February 1813, +and cannot but recollect with astonishment how limited and imperfect +was the instruction which an officer received at that time: he +absolutely entered the army without any military education whatever. We +were so defective in our drill, even after we had passed out of the +hands of the sergeant, that the excellence of our non-commissioned +officers alone prevented us from meeting with the most fatal disasters +in the face of the enemy. Physical force and our bull-dog energy +carried many a hard-fought field. Luckily, nous avons change tout +cela, and our officers may now vie with those of any other army in an +age when the great improvements in musketry, in artillery practice, and +in the greater rapidity of manoeuvring, have entirely changed the art +of war, and rendered the individual education of those in every grade +of command an absolute necessity. +</P> + +<P> +After passing through the hands of the drill sergeant with my friends +Dashwood, Batty, Browne, Lascelles, Hume, and Masters, and mounting +guard at St. James's for a few months, we were hurried off, one fine +morning, in charge of a splendid detachment of five hundred men to join +Lord Wellington in Spain. Macadam had just begun to do for England +what Marshal Wade did in Scotland seventy years before; and we were +able to march twenty miles a day with ease until we reached Portsmouth. +There we found transports ready to convey a large reinforcement, of +which we formed part, to Lord Wellington, who was now making his +arrangements, after taking St. Sebastian, for a yet more important +event in the history of the Peninsular War—the invasion of France. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="spain"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +DEPARTURE FOR AND ARRIVAL IN SPAIN +</H3> + +<P> +We sailed under convoy of the Madagascar frigate, commanded by Captain +Curtis; and, after a favourable voyage, we arrived at Passages. Our +stay there was short, for we were ordered to join the army without loss +of time. In three hours we got fairly into camp, where we were +received with loud cheers by our brothers in arms. +</P> + +<P> +The whole British army was here under canvas; our allies, the Spaniards +and Portuguese, being in the rear. About the middle of October, to our +great delight, the army received orders to cross the Bidassoa. At three +o'clock on the morning of the 15th our regiment advanced through a +difficult country, and, after a harassing march, reached the top of a +hill as the gray light of morning began to dawn. We marched in +profound silence, but with a pleasurable feeling of excitement amongst +all ranks at the thought of meeting the enemy, and perhaps with not an +equally agreeable idea that we might be in the next world before the +day was over. +</P> + +<P> +As we ascended the rugged side of the hill, I saw, for the first time, +the immortal Wellington. He was accompanied by the Spanish General, +Alava, Lord Fitzroy Somerset, and Major, afterwards Colonel Freemantle. +He was very stern and grave-looking; he was in deep meditation, so long +as I kept him in view, and spoke to no one. His features were bold, +and I saw much decision of character in his expression. He rode a +knowing-looking, thorough-bred horse, and wore a gray overcoat, Hessian +boots, and a large cocked hat. We commenced the passage of the Bidassoa +about five in the morning, and in a short time infantry, cavalry, and +artillery found themselves upon French ground. The stream at the point +we forded was nearly four feet deep, and had Soult been aware of what +we were about, we should have found the passage of the river a very +arduous undertaking. +</P> + +<P> +Three miles above, we discovered the French army, and ere long found +ourselves under fire. The sensation of being made a target to a large +body of men is at first not particularly pleasant, but "in a trice, the +ear becomes more Irish and less nice." The first man I ever saw killed +was a Spanish soldier, who was cut in two by a cannon ball. The French +army, not long after we began to return their fire, was in full +retreat; and after a little sharp, but desultory fighting, in which our +Division met with some loss, we took possession of the camp and strong +position of Soult's army. We found the soldiers' huts very +comfortable; they were built of branches of trees and furze, and formed +squares and streets, which had names placarded up, such as Rue de +Paris, Rue de Versailles, &c. We were not sorry to find ourselves in +such commodious quarters, as well as being well housed. The scenery +surrounding the camp was picturesque and grand. From our elevated +position, immediately in front, we commanded a wide and extensive +plain, intersected by two important rivers, the Nive and the Nivelle. +On the right, the lofty Pyrenees, with their grand and varied outline, +stood forth conspicuously in a blue, cloudless sky; on our left was the +Bay of Biscay, with our cruisers perpetually on the move. +</P> + +<P> +We witnessed from the camp, one night about twelve o'clock, a fight at +sea, between an English brig and a French corvette, which was leaving +the Adour with provisions and ammunition. She was chased by the brig, +and brought to action. The night was sufficiently clear to enable us +to discover distinctly the position of the vessels and the measured +flash of their guns. They were at close quarters, and in less than +half an hour we discovered the crew of the corvette taking to their +boats. Shortly afterwards the vessel blew up with a loud explosion. We +came to the conclusion that sea-fighting was more agreeable than +land-fighting, as the crews of the vessels engaged without previous +heavy marching, and with loose light clothing; there was no manoeuvring +or standing for hours on the defensive; the wounded were immediately +taken below and attended to, and the whole affair was over in a +pleasingly brief period. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="uniform"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE UNIFORM AND BEARING OF THE FRENCH SOLDIER +</H3> + +<P> +The French infantry soldier averaged about five feet five or six in +height; in build they were much about what they are now, perhaps a +little broader over the shoulder. They were smart, active, handy +fellows, and much more able to look after their personal comforts than +British soldiers, as their camps indicated. The uniform of those days +consisted in a schako, which spread out at the top; a short-waisted, +swallow-tailed coat; and large, baggy trousers and gaiters. The +clothing of the French soldier was roomy, and enabled him to march and +move about at ease: no pipeclay accessories occupied their attention; +in a word, their uniforms and accoutrements were infinitely superior to +our own, taking into consideration the practical necessities of +warfare. Their muskets were inferior to ours, and their firing less +deadly. The French cavalry we thought badly horsed; but their +uniforms, though showy, were, like those of the infantry, comfortably +large and roomy. +</P> + +<P> +I have frequently remarked that firearms are of little use to the +mounted soldier, and often an incumbrance to man and horse. Cavalry +want only one arm—the sabre. Let the men be well mounted and at home +in the saddle. It requires great knowledge in a Commander-in-chief to +know when and how to use his cavalry. It has been my misfortune to +witness oft-repeated blunders in the employment of the best-mounted +regiments in the world. I consider the French generals had more +knowledge of the use of cavalry than our own, when a great battle was +to be fought. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="stewart"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +MAJOR-GENERAL STEWART AND LORD WELLINGTON +</H3> + +<P> +If the present generation of Englishmen would take the trouble of +looking at the newspaper which fifty years ago informed the British +public of passing events both at home and abroad, they would, +doubtless, marvel at the very limited and imperfect amount of +intelligence which the best journals were enabled to place before their +readers. The progress of the Peninsular campaign was very imperfectly +chronicled; it will, therefore, be easily imagined what interest was +attached to certain letters that appeared in the Morning Chronicle +which criticised with much severity, and frequently with considerable +injustice, the military movements of Lord Wellington's Spanish campaign. +</P> + +<P> +The attention of the Commander-in-Chief being drawn to these periodical +and personal comments on his conduct of the war, his lordship at once +perceived from the information which they contained that they must have +been written by an officer holding a high command under him. Determined +to ascertain the author—who, in addressing a public journal, was +violating the Articles of War, and, it might be, assisting the +enemy—means were employed in London to identify the writer. The +result was, that Lord Wellington discovered the author of the letters +to be no other than Sir Charles Stewart, the late Lord Londonderry. As +soon as Lord Wellington had made himself master of this fact, he +summoned Sir Charles Stewart to head-quarters at Torres Vedras; and on +his appearance, he, without the least preface, addressed him thus:— +</P> + +<P> +"Charles Stewart, I have ascertained with deep regret that you are the +author of the letters which appeared in the Morning Chronicle abusing +me and finding fault with my military plans." +</P> + +<P> +Lord Wellington paused here for a moment, and then continued: +</P> + +<P> +"Now, Stewart, you know your brother Castlereagh is my best friend, to +whom I owe everything; nevertheless, if you continue to write letters +to the Chronicle, or any other newspaper, by God, I will send you home." +</P> + +<P> +Sir Charles Stewart was so affected at this rebuke that he shed tears, +and expressed himself deeply penitent for the breach of confidence and +want of respect for the Articles of War. They immediately shook hands +and parted friends. It happened, however, that Sir Charles Stewart did +not remain long in the cavalry, of which he was Adjutant-General. +Within a few weeks he was named one of the Commissioners deputed to +proceed to the Allied Armies, where the Sovereigns were then completing +their plans to crush Napoleon. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="jeandeluz"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +ST. JEAN DE LUZ +</H3> + +<P> +During the winter of 1813, the Guards were stationed with head-quarters +at St Jean de Luz, and most comfortable we managed to make them. For +some short time previously we had been on scanty commons, and had +undergone considerable privation: indeed we might have said, like the +Colonel to Johnny Newcome on his arrival to join his regiment, "We sons +of Mars have long been fed on brandy and cigars." I had no cause to +complain personally; for my servant, a Sicilian, was one of the most +accomplished foragers (ill-natured persons might give him a worse name) +in the whole army; and when others were nearly starving, he always +managed to provide meat or poultry. He rode on his mule sometimes from +twenty to thirty miles, often running the greatest dangers, to procure +me a good meal; of which he took care to have, very justly, a large +share for himself. +</P> + +<P> +At St Jean de Luz, we were more attentive to our devotions than we had +been for some time. Divine service was performed punctually every +Sunday on the sand-hills near the town; Lord Wellington and his +numerous Staff placed themselves in the midst of our square, and his +lordship's chaplain read the service, to which Lord Wellington always +appeared to listen with great attention. +</P> + +<P> +The mayor of the town, thinking to please "the great English lord," +gave a ball at the Hotel de Ville: our Commander-in-Chief did not go +but was represented by Waters. I was there, and expected to see some +of the young ladies of the country so famed for their beauty; they +were, however, far too patriotic to appear, and the only lady present +was Lady Waldegrave, then living with her husband at head-quarters. +What was one partner among so many? The ball was a dead failure, in +spite of the efforts of the mayor, who danced, to our intense +amusement, an English hornpipe, which he had learnt in not a very +agreeable manner, viz. when a prisoner of war in the hulks at Plymouth. +</P> + +<P> +There were two packs of hounds at St Jean de Luz; one kept by Lord +Wellington, the other by Marsden, of the Commissariat: our officers +went uncommonly straight. Perhaps our best man across country (though +sometimes somewhat against his will) was the late Colonel Lascelles of +my regiment, then, like myself, a mere lad. He rode a horse seventeen +hands high, called Bucephalus, which invariably ran away with him, and +more than once had nearly capsized Lord Wellington. The good living at +St Jean de Luz agreed so well with my friend that he waxed fat, and +from that period to his death was known to the world by the jovial +appellation of Bacchus Lascelles. +</P> + +<P> +Shortly before we left St Jean de Luz, we took our turn of outposts in +the neighbourhood of Bidart, a large village, about ten miles from +Bayonne. Early one frosty morning in December, an order came, that if +we saw the enemy advancing, we were not to fire or give the alarm. +About five, we perceived two battalions wearing grenadier caps coming +on. They turned out to belong to a Nassau regiment which had occupied +the advanced post of the enemy, and, hearing that Napoleon had met with +great reverses in Germany, signified to us their intention to desert. +They were a fine-looking body of men, and appeared, I thought, rather +ashamed of the step they had taken. On the same day, we were relieved, +and on our way back met Lord Wellington with his hounds. He was +dressed in a light blue frock coat (the colour of the Hatfield hunt) +which had been sent out to him as a present from Lady Salisbury, then +one of the leaders of the fashionable world, and an enthusiastic +admirer of his lordship. +</P> + +<P> +Here, I remember seeing for the first time a very remarkable character, +the Hon. W. Dawson, of my regiment. He was surrounded by muleteers, +with whom he was bargaining to provide carriage for innumerable hampers +of wine, liqueurs, hams, potted meat, and other good things, which he +had brought from England. He was a particularly gentlemanly and +amiable man, much beloved by the regiment: no one was so hospitable or +lived so magnificently. His cooks were the best in the army, and he, +besides, had a host of servants of all nations—Spaniards, French, +Portuguese, Italians—who were employed in scouring the country for +provisions. Lord Wellington once honoured him with his company; and on +entering the ensign's tent, found him alone at table, with a dinner fit +for a king, his plate and linen in good keeping, and his wines perfect. +Lord Wellington was accompanied on this occasion by Sir Edward Pakenham +and Colonel du Burgh, afterwards Lord Downes. It fell to my lot to +partake of his princely hospitality and dine with him at his quarters, +a farmhouse in a village on the Bidassoa, and I never saw a better +dinner put upon table. The career of this amiable Amphitryon, to our +great regret, was cut short, after exercising for about a year a +splendid but not very wise hospitality. He had only a younger +brother's fortune; his debts became very considerable, and he was +obliged to quit the Guards. He and his friends had literally eaten up +his little fortune. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="foolhardiness"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +FOOLHARDINESS +</H3> + +<P> +I may here recount an instance of the folly and foolhardiness of youth, +and the recklessness to which a long course of exposure to danger +produces. When Bayonne was invested, I was one night on duty on the +outer picket. The ground inside the breastwork which had been thrown up +for our protection by Burgoyne was in a most disagreeable state for any +one who wished to repose after the fatigues of the day, being knee-deep +in mud of a remarkably plastic nature. I was dead tired, and +determined to get a little rest in some more agreeable spot; so calling +my sergeant, I told him to give me his knapsack for a pillow; I would +make a comfortable night of it on the top of the breastwork, as it was +an invitingly dry place. "For heaven's sake take care, sir," said he; +"you'll have fifty bullets in you: you will be killed to a certainty." +"Pooh, nonsense," said I, and climbing up, I wrapt myself in my cloak, +laid my head on the knapsack, and soon fell into a sound sleep. +</P> + +<P> +By the mercy of Providence I remained in a whole skin, either from the +French immediately underneath not perceiving me, or not thinking me +worth a shot; but when General Stopford came up with Lord James Hay +(who not long since reminded me of this youthful escapade) I received a +severe wigging, and was told to consider myself lucky that I was not +put under arrest for exposing my life in so foolish a manner. +</P> + +<P> +Among the many officers of the Guards who were taken prisoners in the +unfortunate sortie from Bayonne, was the Hon. H. Townshend, commonly +called Bull Townshend. He was celebrated as a bon vivant, and in +consequence of his too great indulgence in the pleasures of the table, +had become very unwieldy and could not move quick enough to please his +nimble captors, so he received many prods in the back from a sharp +bayonet. After repeated threats, however, he was dismissed with what +our American friends would be pleased to designate "a severe booting." +The late Sir Willoughby Cotton was also a prisoner. It really seemed +as if the enemy had made choice of our fattest officers. Sir +Willoughby escaped by giving up his watch and all the money which he +had in his pockets; but this consisting of a Spanish dollar only, the +smallness of the sum subjected him to the same ignominious treatment as +had been experienced by Townshend. +</P> + +<P> +Among the numerous bad characters in our ranks, several were coiners, +or utterers of bad money. In the second brigade of Guards, just before +we arrived at St. Jean de Luz, a soldier was convicted of this offence, +and was sentenced to receive 800 lashes. This man made sham Spanish +dollars out of the pewter spoons of the regiment. As he had before +been convicted and flogged, he received this terrible sentence, and +died under the lash. Would it not have been better to have condemned +him to be shot?— It would have been more humane, certainly more +military, and far less brutal. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="discipline"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +DISCIPLINE +</H3> + +<P> +When the headquarters of the army were at St Jean de Luz, Soult made a +movement in front of our right centre, which the English general took +for a reconnaissance. As the French general perceived that we had +ordered preparations to receive him, he sent a flag of truce to demand +a cessation of hostilities, saying that he wanted to shoot an officer +and several men for acts of robbery committed by them, with every sort +of atrocity, on the farmers and peasantry of the country. The +execution took place in view of both armies, and a terrible lesson it +was. I cannot specify the date of this event, but think it must have +been the latter end of November, 1813. About the same time General +Harispe, who commanded a corps of Basques, issued a proclamation +forbidding the peasantry to supply the English with provisions or +forage, on pain of death; it stated that we were savages, and, as a +proof of this, our horses were born with short tails. I saw this +absurd proclamation, which was published in French and in the Basque +languages, and distributed all over the country. Before we left the +neighbourhood of Bayonne for Bordeaux, a soldier was hanged for +robbery, on the sands of the Adour. This sort of punishment astonished +the French almost as much as it did the soldier. On a march we were +very severe, and if any of our men were caught committing an act of +violence or brigandage, the offender was tried by a drum-head +court-martial, and hanged in a very short time. +</P> + +<P> +I knew an officer of the 18th Hussars, W. R., young, rich, and a +fine-looking fellow, who joined the army not far from St Sebastian. +His stud of horses was remarkable for their blood, his grooms were +English, and three in number. He brought with him a light cart to +carry forage, and a fourgon for his own baggage. All went on well, +till he came to go on outpost duty; but not finding there any of the +comforts to which he had been accustomed, he quietly mounted his +charger, told his astonished sergeant that campaigning was not intended +for a gentleman, and instantly galloped off to his quarters, ordering +his servants to pack up everything immediately, as he had hired a +transport to take him off to England. He left us before any one had +time to stop him; and though despatches were sent off to the +Commander-in-Chief, requesting that a court-martial might sit to try +the young deserter, he arrived home long enough before the despatches +to enable him to sell out of his regiment. He deserved to have been +shot. +</P> + +<P> +Sir John Hope, who commanded our corps d'armee at Bayonne, had his +quarters at a village on the Adour, called Beaucauld. He was good +enough to name me to the command of the village; which honour I did not +hold for many days, for the famous sortie from Bayonne took place soon +after, and the general was made prisoner. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="johnwaters"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +SIR JOHN WATERS +</H3> + +<P> +Amongst the distinguished men in the Peninsular war whom my memory +brings occasionally before me, is the well-known and highly popular +Quartermaster General Sir John Waters, who was born at Margam, a Welsh +village in Glamorganshire. He was one of those extraordinary persons +that seem created by kind nature for particular purposes; and, without +using the word in an offensive sense, he was the most admirable spy +that was ever attached to an army. One would almost have thought that +the Spanish war was entered upon and carried on in order to display his +remarkable qualities. He could assume the character of Spaniards of +every degree and station, so as to deceive the most acute of those whom +he delighted to imitate. In the posada of the village he was hailed by +the contrabandist or the muleteer as one of their own race; in the gay +assemblies he was an accomplished hidalgo; at the bull-fight the +toreador received his congratulations as from one who had encountered +the toro in the arena; in the church he would converse with the friar +upon the number of Ave Marias and Pater-nosters which could lay a +ghost, or tell him the history of everyone who had perished by the +flame of the Inquisition, relating his crime, whether carnal or +anti-Catholic; and he could join in the seguadilla or in the guaracha. +But what rendered him more efficient than all was his wonderful power +of observation and accurate description, which made the information he +gave so reliable and valuable to the Duke of Wellington. Nothing +escaped him. When amidst a group of persons, he would minutely watch +the movement, attitude, and expression of every individual that +composed it; in the scenery by which he was surrounded he would +carefully mark every object:—not a tree, not a bush, not a large +stone, escaped his observation; and it was said that in a cottage he +noted every piece of crockery on the shelf, every domestic utensil, and +even the number of knives and forks that were got ready for use at +dinner. His acquaintance with the Spanish language was marvellous; from +the finest works of Calderon to the ballads in the patois of every +province, he could quote, to the infinite delight of those with whom he +associated. He could assume any character that he pleased: he could be +the Castilian, haughty and reserved; the Asturian, stupid and plodding; +the Catalonian, intriguing and cunning; the Andalusian, laughing and +merry;—in short, he was all things to all men. Nor was he incapable +of passing off, when occasion required, for a Frenchman; but as he +spoke the language with a strong German accent, he called himself an +Alsatian. He maintained that character with the utmost nicety; and as +there is a strong feeling of fellowship, almost equal to that which +exists in Scotland, amongst all those who are born in the departments +of France bordering on the Rhine, and who maintain their Teutonic +originality, he always found friends and supporters in every regiment +in the French service. +</P> + +<P> +He was on one occasion entrusted with a very difficult mission by the +Duke of Wellington, which he undertook effectually to perform, and to +return on a particular day with the information that was required. +</P> + +<P> +Great was the disappointment when it was ascertained beyond a doubt +that just after leaving the camp he had been taken prisoner, before he +had time to exchange his uniform. Such, however, was the case: a troop +of dragoons had intercepted him, and carried him off; and the +commanding officer desired two soldiers to keep a strict watch over him +and carry him to head-quarters. He was of course disarmed, and being +placed on a horse, was, after a short time, galloped off by his guards. +He slept one night under durance vile at a small inn, where he was +allowed to remain in the kitchen; conversation flowed on very glibly, +and as he appeared a stupid Englishman, who could not understand a word +of French or Spanish, he was allowed to listen, and thus obtained +precisely the intelligence that he was in search of. The following +morning, being again mounted, he overheard a conversation between his +guards, who deliberately agreed to rob him, and to shoot him at a mill +where they were to stop, and to report to their officer that they had +been compelled to fire at him in consequence of his attempt to escape. +</P> + +<P> +Shortly before they arrived at the mill, for fear that they might meet +with some one who would insist on having a portion of the spoil, the +dragoons took from the prisoner his watch and his purse, which he +surrendered with a good grace. On their arrival at the mill, they +dismounted, and in order to give some appearance of truth to their +story, they went into the house; leaving their prisoner outside, in the +hope that he would make some attempt to escape. In an instant Waters +threw his cloak upon a neighbouring olive bush, and mounted his cocked +hat on the top. Some empty flour sacks lay upon the ground, and a horse +laden with well-filled flour sacks stood at the door. Sir John +contrived to enter one of the empty sacks and throw himself across the +horse. When the soldiers came out of the house they fired their +carbines at the supposed prisoner, and galloped off at their utmost +speed. +</P> + +<P> +A short time after the miller came out and mounted his steed; the +general contrived to rid himself of the encumbrance of the sack, and +sat up, riding behind the man, who, suddenly turning round, saw a +ghost, as he believed, for the flour that still remained in the sack +had completely whitened his fellow-traveller and given him a most +unearthly appearance. The frightened miller was "putrified," as Mrs. +Malaprop would say, at the sight, and a push from the white spectre +brought the unfortunate man to the ground, when away rode the gallant +quartermaster with his sacks of flour, which, at length bursting, made +a ludicrous spectacle of man and horse. +</P> + +<P> +On reaching the English camp, where Lord Wellington was anxiously +deploring his fate, a sudden shout from the soldiers made his lordship +turn round, when a figure, resembling the statue in "Don Juan," +galloped up to him. The duke, affectionately shaking him by the hand, +said— +</P> + +<P> +"Waters, you never yet deceived me; and though you have come in a most +questionable shape, I must congratulate you and myself." +</P> + +<P> +When this story was told at the clubs, one of those listeners, who +always want something more, called out, "Well, and what did Waters +say?" to which Alvanley replied— +</P> + +<P> +"Oh, Waters made a very flowery speech, like a well-bred man." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="nivelle"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE BATTLE OF THE NIVELLE +</H3> + +<P> +We expected to remain quietly in our winter quarters at St. Jean de +Luz; but, to our surprise, early one morning, we were aroused from +sleep by the beating of the drum calling us to arms. We were soon in +marching order. It appeared that our outposts had been severely pushed +by the French, and we were called upon to support our companions in +arms. +</P> + +<P> +The whole of the British army, as well as the division of the Guards, +had commenced a forward movement. Soult, seeing this, entirely changed +his tactics, and from that time, viz. the 9th of December, a series of +engagements took place. The fighting on the 9th was comparatively +insignificant. When we were attacked on the 10th, the Guards held the +mayor's house, and the grounds and orchards attached: this was an +important station. +</P> + +<P> +Large bodies of the enemy's infantry approached, and, after desultory +fighting, succeeded in penetrating our position, when many hand-to-hand +combats ensued. Towards the afternoon, officers and men having +displayed great gallantry, we drove the enemy from the ground which +they courageously disputed with us, and from which they eventually +retreated to Bayonne. Every day there was constant fighting along the +whole of our line, which extended from the sea to the lower Pyrenees—a +distance probably not less than thirty miles. +</P> + +<P> +On the 11th, we only exchanged a few shots, but on the 12th Soult +brought into action from fifteen to twenty thousand men, and attacked +our left with a view of breaking our line. One of the most remarkable +incidents of the 12th was the fact of an English battalion being +surrounded by a division of French in the neighbourhood of the mayor's +house—which, as before observed, was one of our principal strategical +positions. The French commanding officer, believing that no attempt +would be made to resist, galloped up to the officer of the British +regiment, and demanded his sword. Upon this, without the least +hesitation, the British officer shouted out, "This fellow wants us to +surrender: charge, my boys! and show them what stuff we are made of." +Instantaneously, a hearty cheer rang out, and our men rushed forward +impetuously, drove off the enemy at the point of the bayonet, and soon +disposed of the surrounding masses. In a few minutes they had taken +prisoners, or killed, the whole of the infantry regiment opposed to +them. +</P> + +<P> +On the 13th was fought the bloody battle of the Nivelle. Soult had +determined to make a gigantic effort to drive us back into Spain. +During the night of the 12th, he rapidly concentrated about sixty +thousand troops in front of Sir Rowland Hill's corps d'armee, +consisting of 15,000 men, who occupied a very strong position, which +was defended by some of the best artillery in the world. At daybreak +Sir Rowland Hill was astonished to find himself threatened by masses of +infantry advancing over a country luckily intersected by rivulets, +hedges, and woods, which prevented the enemy from making a rapid +advance; whilst, at the same time, it was impossible on such ground to +employ cavalry. Sir Rowland, availing himself of an elevated position, +hurriedly surveyed his ground, and concentrated his men at such points +as he knew the nature of the field would induce the enemy to attack. +The French, confident of success from their superior numbers, came +gallantly up, using the bayonet for the first time in a premeditated +attack; Our men stood their ground, and for hours acted purely on the +defensive; being sustained by the admirable practice of our artillery, +whose movements no difficulty of ground could, on this occasion, +impede, so efficiently were the guns horsed, and so perfect was the +training of the officers. It was not until mid-day that the enemy +became discouraged at finding that they were unable to make any serious +impression on our position; they then retired in good order, Sir +Rowland Hill not daring to follow them. +</P> + +<P> +Lord Wellington arrived just in time to witness the end of the battle; +and while going over the field with Sir Rowland Hill, he remarked that +he had never seen so many men hors de combat in so small a space. +</P> + +<P> +I must not omit to mention a circumstance which occurred during this +great fight, alike illustrative of cowardice and of courage. The +colonel of an infantry regiment, who shall be nameless, being hard +pressed, showed a disposition not only to run away himself, but to +order his regiment to retire. In fact, a retrograde movement had +commenced, when my gallant and dear friend Lord Charles Spencer, +aide-de-camp to Sir William Stewart, dashed forward, and, seizing the +colours of the regiment, exclaimed, "If your colonel will not lead you, +follow me, my boys." The gallantry of this youth, then only eighteen +years of age, so animated the regiment, and restored their confidence, +that they rallied and shared in the glory of the day. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="adour"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE PASSAGE OF THE ADOUR +</H3> + +<P> +Immediately after the battle of Nivelle, Lord Wellington determined to +advance his whole line on to French ground. The right, under his own +command, pushed on towards Orthes, whilst the left, under the command +of Sir John Hope, proceeded in the direction of Bayonne. We (the +Guards) were incorporated in the latter corps d'armee. +</P> + +<P> +Whilst these operations were going on, Soult was organizing his +discouraged army, in order to make, as early as possible, another +convenient stand. The enemy fell back on Orthes, and there took up a +strong position; Soult was, nevertheless, destined to be beaten again +at Orthes. It so happened that, for the first time since the battle of +Vittoria, our cavalry were engaged: the nature of the ground at Nive +and Nivelle was such as to prevent the possibility of employing the +mounted soldier. +</P> + +<P> +I must here record an incident which created a considerable sensation +in military circles in connection with the battle of Orthes. The 10th +Hussars, officered exclusively by men belonging to the noblest families +of Great Britain, showed a desire to take a more active part in the +contest than their colonel (Quintin) thought prudent. They pressed hard +to be permitted to charge the French cavalry on more than one occasion, +but in vain. This so disgusted every officer in the regiment, that +they eventually signed a round robin, by which they agreed never again +to speak to their colonel. When the regiment returned to England, a +court of inquiry was held, which resulted, through the protection of +the Prince Regent, in the colonel's exoneration from all blame, and at +the same time the exchange of the rebellious officers into other +regiments. +</P> + +<P> +It was at the battle of Orthes that the late Duke of Richmond was shot +through the body, gallantly fighting with the 7th Fusiliers. Lord +Wellington had determined to cross the Adour, and Sir John Hope was +intrusted with a corps d'armee, which was the first to perform this +difficult operation. It was necessary to provide Sir John Hope with a +number of small boats; these were accordingly brought on the backs of +mules from various Spanish ports, it being impossible, on account of +the surf at the entrance of the Adour, as well as the command which the +French held of that river, for Lord Wellington to avail himself of +water carriage. Soult had given orders for the forces under General +Thevenot to dispute the passage. +</P> + +<P> +The first operations of our corps were to throw over the 3rd Guards, +under the command of the gallant Colonel Stopford; this was not +accomplished without much difficulty: but it was imperatively +necessary, in order to protect the point where the construction of the +bridge of boats would terminate. They had not been long on the French +side of the river before a considerable body of men were seen issuing +from Bayonne. Sir John Hope ordered our artillery, and rockets, then +for the first time employed, to support our small band. Three or four +regiments of French infantry were approaching rapidly, when a +well-directed fire of rockets fell amongst them. The consternation of +the Frenchmen was such, when these hissing, serpent-like projectiles +descended, that a panic ensued, and they retreated upon Bayonne. The +next day the bridge of boats was completed, and the whole army crossed. +Bayonne was eventually invested after a contest, in which it was +supposed our loss exceeded 500 or 600 men. Here we remained in camp +about six weeks, expecting to besiege the citadel; but this event never +came off: we, however, met with a severe disaster and a reverse. The +enemy made an unexpected sortie, and surrounded General Sir John Hope, +when he and the whole of his staff were taken prisoners. The French +killed and wounded about 1,000 men on this occasion. +</P> + +<P> +The hardly-contested battle of Toulouse was fought about this period, +but the Guards were not present to share the honours of a contest which +closed the eventful war of the Spanish Peninsula. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="bordeaux"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +ARRIVAL OF THE GUARDS AT BORDEAUX +</H3> + +<P> +When we reached Bordeaux, which had now become a stronghold of the +Royalists, we were received by the inhabitants with a welcome which +resembled what would be shown to friends and deliverers, rather than to +a foreign soldiery. Nothing could be more gratifying and more +acceptable to our feelings, since it was the first time after our +arrival on the Continent that we met with cordiality and an apparent +desire to make our quarters as comfortable as possible. The Duc +d'Angouleme had reached Bordeaux before us, and no doubt his presence +had prepared the way for all the friends of the Bourbons. Everywhere +some description of white rag was doing duty for a Royalist banner. I +lived at M. Devigne's, a rich wine-merchant who had a family of two +sons and two beautiful daughters; the latter were, as I thought, taken +remarkable care of by their maternal parent. Here I had evidently +fallen upon my legs, for not only was the family a most agreeable one, +but their hospitality was of the most generous kind. Sir Stapylton +Cotton was our frequent visitor, together with M. Martignac, afterwards +Minister of Charles the Tenth. +</P> + +<P> +Here I had an opportunity of meeting some of the prettiest women of a +city famed all over Europe for its female beauty. The young ladies +were remarkable for their taste in dress, which in those days consisted +of a mantilla a l'Espagnole, and silken shawls of varied hues, so +admirably blended, that the eye was charmed with their richness of +colour. The grisettes, who were as much admired by the soldiers as +were the high dames by the officers, were remarkable for a coquettish +species of apron of a red dye, which was only to be obtained from the +neighbourhood. +</P> + +<P> +Of course we were all very anxious to taste the Bordeaux wines; but our +palates, accustomed to the stronger vintages of Spain, I suspect were +not in a condition to appreciate the more delicate and refined bouquets +which ought to characterize claret. A vin ordinaire, which now at +restaurateur's would cost three francs, was then furnished at the +hotels for fifteen sous: a Larose, Lafitte, Margot, such as we are now +paying eight or ten francs a bottle for, did not cost a third. I must +not, however, forget that greater attention and care is now employed in +the preparation of French wines. The exportation to England of the +light red wines of France was not sufficiently profitable, as I learnt +from my host, at that time to attract the cupidity of commerce. +</P> + +<P> +In the Guards, Bordeaux was more affectionately remembered in connexion +with its women than its wine. We left it with regret, and the more +youthful and imaginative amongst us said that we were wafted across the +Channel by the gentle sighs of the girls we left behind us. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="clarke1"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE +</H3> + +<P> +Our army, despite its defects, was nevertheless infinitely better +administered at home when I joined than it had been a few years before; +owing principally to the inquiry that had taken place in the House of +Commons, relative to the bribery and corruption which had crept in, and +which had been laid open by the confessions of a female, who created no +small sensation in those days, and who eventually terminated her +extraordinary career, not very long since, in Paris. +</P> + +<P> +The squibs fired off by Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke had a much greater +influence, and produced more effect upon the English army, than all the +artillery of the enemy directed against the Duke of York when +commanding in Holland. This lady was remarkable for her beauty and her +fascinations; and few came within the circle over which she presided +who did not acknowledge her superior power. Her wit, which kept the +House of Commons, during her examination, in a continued state of +merriment, was piquant and saucy. Her answers on that occasion have +been so often brought before the public, that I need not repeat them; +but, in private life, her quick repartee, and her brilliant sallies, +rendered her a lively, though not always an agreeable companion. As +for prudence, she had none; her dearest friend, if she had any, was +just as likely to be made the object of her ridicule as the most +obnoxious person of her acquaintance. +</P> + +<P> +Her narrative of her first introduction to the Duke of York has often +been repeated; but, as all her stories were considered apocryphal, it +is difficult to arrive at a real history of her career. Certain +however, is it that, about the age of sixteen, she was residing at +Blackheath—a sweet, pretty, lively girl—when, in her daily walk +across the heath, she was passed, on two or three occasions, by a +handsome, well-dressed cavalier, who, finding that she recognised his +salute, dismounted; pleased with her manner and wit, he begged to be +allowed to introduce a friend. Accordingly, on her consenting, a person +to whom the cavalier appeared to pay every sort of deference was +presented to her, and the acquaintance ripened into something more than +friendship. Not the slightest idea had the young lady of the position +in society of her lover, until she accompanied him, on his invitation, +to the theatre, where she occupied a private box, when she was +surprised at the ceremony with which she was treated, and at observing +that every eye and every lorgnette in the house were directed towards +her in the course of the evening. She accepted this as a tribute to her +beauty. Finding that she could go again to the theatre when she +pleased, and occupy the same box, she availed herself of this +opportunity with a female friend, and was not a little astonished at +being addressed as Her Royal Highness. She then discovered that the +individual into whose affections she had insinuated herself was the son +of the King, the Duke of York, who had not long before united himself +to a lady, for whom she had been mistaken. +</P> + +<P> +Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke was soon reconciled to the thought of being the +wife of a prince by the left hand, particularly as she found herself +assiduously courted by persons of the highest rank, and more especially +by military men. A large house in a fashionable street was taken for +her, and an establishment on a magnificent scale gave her an +opportunity of surrounding herself with persons of a sphere far beyond +anything she could in her younger days have dreamt of; her father +having been in an honourable trade, and her husband being only a +captain in a marching regiment. The duke, delighted to see his fair +friend so well received, constantly honoured her dinner-table with his +presence, and willingly gratified any wish that she expressed; and he +must have known (and for this he was afterwards highly censured) that +her style of living was upon a scale of great expense, and that he +himself contributed little towards it. The consequence was that the +hospitable lady eventually became embarrassed, and knew not which way +to turn to meet her outlay. It was suggested to her that she might +obtain from the duke commissions in the army, which she could easily +dispose of at a good price. Individuals quickly came forward, ready to +purchase anything that came within her grasp, which she extended not +only to the army, but, as it afterwards appeared, to the Church; for +there were reverend personages who availed themselves of her +assistance, and thus obtained patronage, by which they advanced their +worldly interests very rapidly. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="clarke2"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE AND COL. WARDLE +</H3> + +<P> +Amongst those who paid great attention to Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke was +Colonel Wardle, at that time a remarkable member of the House of +Commons, and a bold leader of the Radical Opposition. He got +intimately acquainted with her, and was so great a personal favourite +that it was believed he wormed out all her secret history, of which he +availed himself to obtain a fleeting popularity. +</P> + +<P> +Having obtained the names of some of the parties who had been fortunate +enough, as they imagined, to secure the lady's favour, he loudly +demanded an inquiry in the House of Commons as to the management of the +army by the Commander-in-Chief, the Duke of York. The nation and the +army were fond of his Royal Highness, and every attempt to screen him +was made; but in vain. The House undertook the task of investigating +the conduct of the duke, and witnesses were produced, amongst whom was +the fair lady herself, who by no means attempted to screen her +imprudent admirer. Her responses to the questions put to her were +cleverly and archly given, and the whole mystery of her various +intrigues came to light. The duke consequently resigned his place in +the Horse Guards, and at the same time repudiated the beautiful and +dangerous cause of his humiliation. The lady, incensed at the +desertion of her royal swain, announced her intention of publishing his +love-letters, which were likely to expose the whole of the royal family +to ridicule, as they formed the frequent themes of his correspondence. +Sir Herbert Taylor was therefore commissioned to enter into a +negotiation for the purchase of the letters; this he effected at an +enormous price, obtaining a written document at the same time by which +Mrs. Clarke was subjected to heavy penalties if she, by word or deed, +implicated the honour of any of the branches of the royal family. A +pension was secured to her, on condition that she should quit England, +and reside wherever she chose on the Continent. To all this she +consented, and, in the first instance, went to Brussels, where her +previous history being scarcely known, she was well received; and she +married her daughters without any inquiry as to the fathers to whom she +might ascribe them. +</P> + +<P> +Mrs. Clarke afterwards settled quietly and comfortably in Paris, +receiving occasionally visits from members of the aristocracy who had +known her when mingling in a certain circle in London. The Marquis of +Londonderry never failed to pay his respects to her, entertaining a +very high opinion of her talents. Her manners were exceedingly +agreeable, and to the latest day she retained pleasing traces of past +beauty. She was lively, sprightly, and full of fun, and indulged in +innumerable anecdotes of the members of the royal family of +England—some of them much too scandalous to be repeated. She regarded +the Duke of York as a big baby, not out of his leading-strings, and the +Prince of Wales as an idle sensualist, with just enough of brains to be +guided by any laughing, well-bred individual who would listen to stale +jokes and impudent ribaldry. Of Queen Charlotte she used to speak with +the utmost disrespect, attributing to her a love of domination and a +hatred of every one who would not bow down before any idol that she +chose to set up; and as being envious of the Princess Caroline and her +daughter the Princess Charlotte of Wales, and jealous of their +acquiring too much influence over the Prince of Wales. In short, Mary +Anne Clarke had been so intimately let into every secret of the life of +the royal family that, had she not been tied down, her revelations +would have astonished the world, however willing the people might have +been to believe that they were tinged with scandal and exaggeration. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +The way in which Colonel Wardle first obtained information of the sale +of commissions was singular enough: he was paying a clandestine visit +to Mrs. Clarke, when a carriage with the royal livery drove up to the +door, and the gallant officer was compelled to take refuge under the +sofa; but instead of the royal duke, there appeared one of his +aide-de-camps, who entered into conversation in so mysterious a manner +as to excite the attention of the gentleman under the sofa, and led him +to believe that the sale of a commission was authorised by the +Commander-in-Chief; though it afterwards appeared that it was a private +arrangement of the unwelcome visitor. At the Horse-Guards, it had +often been suspected that there was a mystery connected with +commissions that could not be fathomed; as it frequently happened that +the list of promotions agreed on was surreptitiously increased by the +addition of new names. This was the crafty handiwork of the +accomplished dame; the duke having employed her as his amanuensis, and +being accustomed to sign her autograph lists without examination. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="society"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +SOCIETY IN LONDON IN 1814 +</H3> + +<P> +In the year 1814, my battalion of the Guards was once more in its old +quarters in Portman Street barracks, enjoying the fame of our Spanish +campaign. Good society at the period to which I refer was, to use a +familiar expression, wonderfully "select." At the present time one can +hardly conceive the importance which was attached to getting admission +to Almack's, the seventh heaven of the fashionable world. Of the three +hundred officers of the Foot Guards, not more than half a dozen were +honoured with vouchers of admission to this exclusive temple of the +beau monde; the gates of which were guarded by lady patronesses, whose +smiles or frowns consigned men and women to happiness or despair. These +lady patronesses were the Ladies Castlereagh, Jersey, Cowper, and +Sefton, Mrs. Drummond Burrell, now Lady Willoughby, the Princess +Esterhazy, and the Countess Lieven. +</P> + +<P> +The most popular amongst these grandes dames was unquestionably Lady +Cowper, now Lady Palmerston. Lady Jersey's bearing, on the contrary, +was that of a theatrical tragedy queen; and whilst attempting the +sublime, she frequently made herself simply ridiculous, being +inconceivably rude, and in her manner often ill-bred. Lady Sefton was +kind and amiable, Madame de Lieven haughty and exclusive, Princess +Esterhazy was a bon enfant, Lady Castlereagh and Mrs. Burrell de tres +grandes dames. +</P> + +<P> +Many diplomatic arts, much finesse, and a host of intrigues, were set +in motion to get an invitation to Almack's. Very often persons whose +rank and fortunes entitled them to the entree anywhere, were excluded +by the cliqueism of the lady patronesses; for the female government of +Almack's was a pure despotism, and subject to all the caprices of +despotic rule: it is needless to add that, like every other despotism, +it was not innocent of abuses. The fair ladies who ruled supreme over +this little dancing and gossiping world, issued a solemn proclamation +that no gentleman should appear at the assemblies without being dressed +in knee-breeches, white cravat, and chapeau bras. On one occasion, the +Duke of Wellington was about to ascend the staircase of the ball-room, +dressed in black trousers, when the vigilant Mr. Willis, the guardian +of the establishment, stepped forward and said, "Your Grace cannot be +admitted in trousers," whereupon the Duke, who had a great respect for +orders and regulations, quietly walked away. +</P> + +<P> +In 1814, the dances at Almack's were Scotch reels and the old English +country-dance; and the orchestra, being from Edinburgh, was conducted +by the then celebrated Neil Gow. It was not until 1815 that Lady +Jersey introduced from Paris the favourite quadrille, which has so long +remained popular. I recollect the persons who formed the very first +quadrille that was ever danced at Almack's: they were Lady Jersey, Lady +Harriet Butler, Lady Susan Ryder, and Miss Montgomery; the men being +the Count St. Aldegonde, Mr. Montgomery, Mr. Montague, and Charles +Standish. The "mazy waltz" was also brought to us about this time; but +there were comparatively few who at first ventured to whirl round the +salons of Almack's; in course of time Lord Palmerston might, however, +have been seen describing an infinite number of circles with Madame de +Lieven. Baron de Neumann was frequently seen perpetually turning with +the Princess Esterhazy; and, in course of time, the waltzing mania, +having turned the heads of society generally, descended to their feet, +and the waltz was practised in the morning in certain noble mansions in +London with unparalleled assiduity. +</P> + +<P> +The dandies of society were Beau Brummell (of whom I shall have to say +something on another occasion), the Duke of Argyle, the Lords +Worcester, Alvanley, and Foley, Henry Pierrepoint, John Mills, +Bradshaw, Henry de Ros, Charles Standish, Edward Montagu, Hervey Aston, +Dan Mackinnon, George Dawson Damer, Lloyd (commonly known as Rufus +Lloyd), and others who have escaped my memory. They were great +frequenters of White's Club, in St. James's Street, where, in the +famous bay window, they mustered in force. +</P> + +<P> +Drinking and play were more universally indulged in then than at the +present time, and many men still living must remember the couple of +bottles of port at least which accompanied his dinner in those days. +Indeed, female society amongst the upper classes was most notoriously +neglected; except, perhaps, by romantic foreigners, who were the heroes +of many at fashionable adventure that fed the clubs with ever +acceptable scandal. How could it be otherwise, when husbands spent +their days in the hunting-field, or were entirely occupied with +politics, and always away from home during the day; whilst the +dinner-party, commencing at seven or eight, frequently did not break up +before one in the morning. There were then four-, and even five-bottle +men; and the only thing that saved them was drinking very slowly, and +out of very small glasses. The learned head of the law, Lord Eldon, and +his brother, Lord Stowell, used to say that they had drunk more bad +port than any two men in England; indeed, the former was rather apt to +be overtaken, and to speak occasionally somewhat thicker than natural, +after long and heavy potations. The late Lords Panmure, Dufferin, and +Blayney, wonderful to relate, were six-bottle men at this time; and I +really think that if the good society of 1815 could appear before their +more moderate descendants in the state they were generally reduced to +after dinner, the moderns would pronounce their ancestors fit for +nothing but bed. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="catalani"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE ITALIAN OPERA.—CATALANI +</H3> + +<P> +The greatest vocalist of whom I have a recollection, is Madame +Catalani. In her youth, she was the finest singer in Europe, and she +was much sought after by all the great people during her sejour in +London. She was extremely handsome, and was considered a model as wife +and mother. Catalani was very fond of money, and would never sing +unless paid beforehand. She was invited, with her husband, to pass some +time at Stowe, where a numerous but select party had been invited; and +Madame Catalani, being asked to sing soon after dinner, willingly +complied. When the day of her departure came, her husband placed in the +hands of the Marquis of Buckingham the following little billet:—"For +seventeen songs, seventeen hundred pounds." This large sum was paid at +once, without hesitation; proving that Lord Buckingham was a refined +gentleman, in every sense of the word. +</P> + +<P> +Catalani's husband, M. de Valabreque, once fought a duel with a German +baron who had insulted the prima donna; the weapons used were sabres, +and Valabreque cut half of the Baron's nose clean off. Madame Catalani +lived for many years, highly respected, at a handsome villa near +Florence. Her two sons are now distinguished members of the Imperial +court in Paris; the eldest being Prefet du Palais, and the youngest +colonel of a regiment of hussars. +</P> + +<P> +When George the Fourth was Regent, Her Majesty's Theatre, as the +Italian Opera in the Haymarket is still called, was conducted on a very +different system from that which now prevails. Some years previous to +the period to which I refer, no one could obtain a box or a ticket for +the pit without a voucher from one of the lady patronesses; who, in +1805, were the Duchesses of Marlborough, Devonshire, and Bedford, Lady +Carlisle, and some others. In their day, after, the singing and the +ballet were over, the company used to retire into the concert-room, +where a ball took place, accompanied by refreshments and a supper. +There all the rank and fashion of England were assembled on a sort of +neutral ground. At a later period, the management of the Opera House +fell into the hands of Mr. Waters, when it became less difficult to +obtain admittance; but the strictest etiquette was still kept up as +regarded the dress of the gentlemen, who were only admitted with +knee-buckles, ruffles, and chapeau bras. If there happened to be a +drawing-room, the ladies would appear in their court-dresses, as well +as the gentlemen, and on all occasions the audience of Her Majesty's +Theatre was stamped with aristocratic elegance. In the boxes of the +first tier might have been seen the daughters of the Duchess of Argyle, +four of England's beauties; in the next box were the equally lovely +Marchioness of Stafford and her daughter, Lady Elizabeth Gore, now the +Duchess of Norfolk: not less remarkable was Lady Harrowby and her +daughters Lady Susan and Lady Mary Ryder. The peculiar type of female +beauty which these ladies so attractively exemplified, is such as can +be met with only in the British Isles: the full, round, soul-inspired +eye of Italy, and the dark hair of the sunny south, often combined with +that exquisitely pearly complexion which seems to be concomitant with +humidity and fog. You could scarcely gaze upon the peculiar beauty to +which I refer without being as much charmed with its kindly expression +as with its physical loveliness. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="dining"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +DINING AND COOKERY IN ENGLAND FIFTY YEARS AGO +</H3> + +<P> +England can boast of a Spenser, Shakspeare, Milton, and many other +illustrious poets, clearly indicating that the national character of +Britons is not deficient in imagination; but we have not had one single +masculine inventive genius of the kitchen. It is the probable result +of our national antipathy to mysterious culinary compounds, that none +of the bright minds of England have ventured into the region of +scientific cookery. Even in the best houses, when I was a young man, +the dinners were wonderfully solid, hot and stimulating. The menu of a +grand dinner was thus composed:—Mulligatawny and turtle soups were the +first dishes placed before you; a little lower, the eye met with the +familiar salmon at one end of the table, and the turbot, surrounded by +smelts, at the other. The first course was sure to be followed by a +saddle of mutton or a piece of roast beef; and then you could take your +oath that fowls, tongue, and ham, would as assuredly succeed as +darkness after day. +</P> + +<P> +Whilst these never ending pieces de resistance were occupying the +table, what were called French dishes were, for custom's sake, added to +the solid abundance. The French, or side dishes, consisted of very +mild but very abortive attempts at Continental cooking, and I have +always observed that they met with the neglect and contempt that they +merited. The universally adored and ever popular boiled potato, +produced at the very earliest period of the dinner, was eaten with +everything, up to the moment when sweets appeared. Our vegetables, the +best in the world, were never honoured by an accompanying sauce, and +generally came to the table cold. A prime difficulty to overcome was +the placing on your fork, and finally in your mouth, some half-dozen +different eatables which occupied your plate at the same time. For +example, your plate would contain, say, a slice of turkey, a piece of +stuffing, a sausage, pickles, a slice of tongue, cauliflower, and +potatoes. According to habit and custom, a judicious and careful +selection from this little bazaar of good things was to be made, with +an endeavour to place a portion of each in your mouth at the same +moment. In fact, it appeared to me that we used to do all our compound +cookery between our jaws. The dessert—generally ordered at Messrs. +Grange's, or at Owen's, in Bond Street—if for a dozen people, would +cost at least as many pounds. The wines were chiefly port, sherry, and +hock; claret, and even Burgundy, being then designated "poor, thin, +washy stuff." A perpetual thirst seemed to come over people, both men +and women, as soon as they had tasted their soup; as from that moment +everybody was taking wine with everybody else till the close of the +dinner; and such wine as produced that class of cordiality which +frequently wanders into stupefaction. How all this sort of eating and +drinking ended was obvious, from the prevalence of gout, and the +necessity of everyone making the pill-box their constant bedroom +companion. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="prince"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE PRINCE REGENT +</H3> + +<P> +When the eldest son of George the Third assumed the Regency, England +was in a state of political transition. The convulsions of the +Continent were felt amongst us; the very foundations of European +society were shaking, and the social relations of men were rapidly +changing. The Regent's natural leanings were towards the Tories; +therefore as soon as he undertook the responsibility of power, he +abruptly abandoned the Whigs and retained in office the admirers and +partisans of his father's policy. This resolution caused him to have +innumerable and inveterate enemies, who never lost an opportunity of +attacking his public acts and interfering with his domestic relations. +</P> + +<P> +The Regent was singularly imbued with petty royal pride. He would +rather be amiable and familiar with his tailor than agreeable and +friendly with the most illustrious of the aristocracy of Great Britain; +he would rather joke with a Brummell than admit to his confidence a +Norfolk or a Somerset. The Regent was always particularly well-bred in +public, and showed, if he chose, decidedly good manners; but he was in +the habit very often of addressing himself in preference to those whom +he felt he could patronise. His Royal Highness was as much the victim +of circumstances and the child of thoughtless imprudence as the most +humble subject of the crown. His unfortunate marriage with a Princess +of Brunswick originated in his debts; as he married that unhappy lady +for one million sterling, William Pitt being the contractor! The +Princess of Wales married nothing but an association with the Crown of +England. If the Prince ever seriously loved any woman, it was Mrs. +Fitzherbert, with whom he had appeared at the altar. +</P> + +<P> +Public opinion in England, under the inspiration of the Whigs, raised a +cry of indignation against the Prince. It was imagined, I presume, +that royal personage should be born without heart or feeling; that he +should have been able to live only for the good of the State and for +the convenience of his creditors. The Princess of Wales was one of the +most unattractive and almost repulsive women for an elegant-minded man +that could well have been found amongst German royalty. It is not my +intention to recall the events of the Regency. It is well known that +the Prince became eventually so unpopular as to exclude himself as much +as possible from public gaze. His intimate companions, after the trial +of Queen Caroline, were Lords Cunningham and Fife, Sir Benjamin +Bloomfield, Sir William Macmahon, Admiral Nagle, Sir A. Barnard, Lords +Glenlyon, Hertford, and Lowther. These gentlemen generally dined with +him; the dinner being the artistic product of that famous gastronomic +savant, Wattiers. The Prince was very fond of listening after dinner +to the gossip of society. When he became George the Fourth, no change +took place in these personnels at the banquet, excepting that with the +fruits and flowers of the table was introduced the beautiful +Marchioness of Conyngham, whose brilliant wit, according to the +estimation of his Majesty, surpassed that of any other of his friends, +male or female. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="charlotte"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PRINCESS CHARLOTTE OF WALES AT A FETE<BR> +IN THE YEAR 1813, AT CARLTON HOUSE +</H3> + +<P> +Carlton House, at the period to which I refer, was a centre for all the +great politicians and wits who were the favorites of the Regent. The +principal entrance of this palace in Pall Mall, with its screen of +columns, will be remembered by many. In the rear of the mansion was an +extensive garden that reached from Warwick Street to Marlborough House; +green sward, stately trees, (probably two hundred years old), and beds +of the choicest flowers, gave to the grounds a picturesque attraction +perhaps unequalled. It was here that the heir to the throne of England +gave, in 1813, an open-air fete, in honour of the battle of Vittoria. +About three o'clock P.M. the elite of London society, who had been +honoured with an invitation, began to arrive—all in full dress; the +ladies particularly displaying their diamonds and pearls, as if they +were going to a drawing-room. The men were, of course, in full dress, +wearing knee-buckles. The regal circle was composed of the Queen, the +Regent, the Princess Sophia and Mary, the Princess Charlotte, the Dukes +of York, Clarence, Cumberland, and Cambridge. +</P> + +<P> +This was the first day that her Royal Highness the Princess Charlotte +appeared in public. She was a young lady of more than ordinary +personal attractions; her features were regular, and her complexion +fair, with the rich bloom of youthful beauty; her eyes were blue and +very expressive, and her hair was abundant, and of that peculiar light +brown which merges into the golden: in fact, such hair as the +Middle-Age Italian painters associate with their conceptions of the +Madonna. In figure her Royal Highness was somewhat over the ordinary +height of women, but finely proportioned and well developed. Her +manners were remarkable for a simplicity and good-nature which would +have won admiration and invited affection in the most humble walks of +life. She created universal admiration, and I may say a feeling of +national pride, amongst all who attended the ball. The Prince Regent +entered the gardens giving his arm to the Queen, the rest of the royal +family following. Tents had been erected in various parts of the +grounds, where the bands of the Guards were stationed. The weather was +magnificent, a circumstance which contributed to show off the admirable +arrangements of Sir Benjamin Bloomfield, to whom had been deputed the +organization of the fete, which commenced by dancing on the lawn. +</P> + +<P> +The Princess Charlotte honoured with her presence two dances. In the +first she accepted the hand of the late Duke of Devonshire, and in the +second that of the Earl of Aboyne, who had danced with Marie +Antoinette, and who, as Lord Huntley, lived long enough to dance with +Queen Victoria. The Princess entered so much into the spirit of the +fete as to ask for the then fashionable Scotch dances. The Prince was +dressed in the Windsor uniform, and wore the garter and star. He made +himself very amiable, and conversed much with the Ladies Hertford, +Cholmondeley, and Montford. Altogether, the fete was a memorable event. +</P> + +<P> +A year afterwards, the Duke of York said to his royal niece, "Tell me, +my dear, have you seen anyone among the foreign princes whom you would +like to have for a husband?" The Princess naively replied, "No one so +much prepossesses me as Prince Leopold of Coburg. I have heard much of +his bravery in the field, and I must say he is personally agreeable to +me. I have particularly heard of his famous cavalry charge at the +battle of Leipsic, where he took several thousand prisoners, for which +he was rewarded with the Order of Maria Therese." In a few months +afterwards she became the wife of the man whom she so much admired, and +from whom she was torn away not long after by the cruel hand of death. +It will be remembered that she died in childbirth, and her offspring +expired at the same time. The accoucheur who attended her was so much +affected by the calamity, that he committed suicide some short time +afterwards. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="brummell"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BEAU BRUMMELL +</H3> + +<P> +Amongst the curious freaks of fortune there is none more remarkable in +my memory than the sudden appearance, in the highest and best society +in London, of a young man whose antecedents warranted a much less +conspicuous career: I refer to the famous Beau Brummell. We have +innumerable instances of soldiers, lawyers, and men of letters, +elevating themselves from the most humble stations, and becoming the +companions of princes and lawgivers; but there are comparatively few +examples of men obtaining a similarly elevated position simply from +their attractive personal appearance and fascinating manners. +Brummell's father, who was a steward to one or two large estates, sent +his son George to Eton. He was endowed with a handsome person, and +distinguished himself at Eton as the best scholar, the best boatman, +and the best cricketer; and, more than all, he was supposed to possess +the comprehensive excellences that are represented by the familiar term +of "good fellow." He made many friends amongst the scions of good +families, by whom he was considered a sort of Crichton; and his +reputation reached a circle over which reigned the celebrated Duchess +of Devonshire. At a grand ball given by her Grace, George Brummell, +then quite a youth, appeared for the first time in such elevated +society. He immediately became a great favourite with the ladies, and +was asked by all the dowagers to as many balls and soirees as he could +attend. +</P> + +<P> +At last the Prince of Wales sent for Brummell, and was so much pleased +with his manner and appearance, that he gave him a commission in his +own regiment, the 10th Hussars. Unluckily, Brummell, soon after +joining his regiment, was thrown from his horse at a grand review at +Brighton, when he broke his classical Roman nose. This misfortune, +however, did not affect the fame of the beau; and although his nasal +organ had undergone a slight transformation, it was forgiven by his +admirers, since the rest of his person remained intact. When we are +prepossessed by the attractions of a favourite, it is not a trifle that +will dispel the illusion; and Brummell continued to govern society, in +conjunction with the Prince of Wales. He was remarkable for his dress, +which was generally conceived by himself; the execution of his sublime +imagination being carried out by that superior genius, Mr. Weston, +tailor, of Old Bond Street. The Regent sympathised deeply with +Brummell's labours to arrive at the most attractive and gentlemanly +mode of dressing the male form, at a period when fashion had placed at +the disposal of the tailor the most hideous material that could +possibly tax his art. The coat may have a long tail or a short tail, a +high collar or a low collar, but it will always be an ugly garment. +The modern hat may be spread out at the top, or narrowed, whilst the +brim may be turned up or turned down, made a little wider or a little +more narrow, still it is inconceivably hideous. Pantaloons and Hessian +boots were the least objectionable features of the costume which the +imagination of a Brummell and the genius of a Royal Prince were called +upon to modify or change. The hours of meditative agony which each +dedicated to the odious fashions of the day have left no monument save +the coloured caricatures in which these illustrious persons have +appeared. +</P> + +<P> +Brummell, at this time, besides being the companion and friend of the +Prince, was very intimate with the Dukes of Rutland, Dorset, and +Argyll, Lords Sefton, Alvanley, and Plymouth. In the zenith of his +popularity he might be seen at the bay window of White's Club, +surrounded by the lions of the day, laying down the law, and +occasionally indulging in those witty remarks for which he was famous. +His house in Chapel Street corresponded with his personal "get up"; the +furniture was in excellent taste, and the library contained the best +works of the best authors of every period and of every country. His +canes, his snuff-boxes, his Sevres china, were exquisite; his horses +and carriage were conspicuous for their excellence; and, in fact, the +superior taste of a Brummell was discoverable in everything that +belonged to him. +</P> + +<P> +But the reign of the king of fashion, like all other reigns, was not +destined to continue for ever. Brummell warmly espoused the cause of +Mrs. Fitzherbert, and this of course offended the Prince of Wales. I +refer to the period when his Royal Highness had abandoned that +beautiful woman for another favourite. A coldness sprang up between +the Prince and his protege, and finally, the mirror of fashion was +excluded from the royal presence. A curious accident brought Brummell +again to the dinner-table of his royal patron; he was asked one night +at White's to take a hand at whist, when he won from George Harley +Drummond 20,000£. This circumstance having been related by the Duke of +York to the Prince of Wales, the beau was again invited to Carlton +House. At the commencement of the dinner, matters went off smoothly; +but Brummell, in his joy at finding himself with his old friend, became +excited, and drank too much wine. His Royal Highness—who wanted to +pay off Brummell for an insult he had received at Lady Cholmondeley's +ball, when the beau, turning towards the Prince, said to Lady +Worcester, "Who is your fat friend?"—had invited him to dinner merely +out of a desire for revenge. The Prince therefore pretended to be +affronted with Brummell's hilarity, and said to his brother, the Duke +of York, who was present, "I think we had better order Mr. Brummell's +carriage before he gets drunk." Whereupon he rang the bell, and +Brummell left the royal presence. This circumstance originated the +story about the beau having told the Prince to ring the bell. I +received these details from the late General Sir Arthur Upton, who was +present at the dinner. The latter days of Brummell were clouded with +mortifications and penury. He retired to Calais, where he kept up a +ludicrous imitation of his past habits. At least he got himself named +consul at Caen; but he afterwards lost the appointment, and eventually +died insane, and in abject poverty, either at Boulogne or Calais. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="coates"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +ROMEO COATES +</H3> + +<P> +This singular man, more than forty years ago, occupied a large portion +of public attention; his eccentricities were the theme of general +wonder, and great was the curiosity to catch a glance at as strange a +being as any that ever appeared in English society. This extraordinary +individual was a native of one of the West India Islands, and was +represented as a man of extraordinary wealth; to which, however, he had +no claim. +</P> + +<P> +About the year 1808 there arrived at the York Hotel, at Bath, a person +about the age of fifty, somewhat gentlemanlike, but so different from +the usual men of the day that considerable attention was directed to +him. He was of a good figure; but his face was sallow, seamed with +wrinkles, and more expressive of cunning than of any other quality. His +dress was remarkable: in the day-time he was covered at all seasons +with enormous quantities of fur; but the evening costume in which he +went to the balls made a great impression, from its gaudy appearance; +for his buttons as well as his knee-buckles were of diamonds. There was +of course great curiosity to know who this stranger was; and this +curiosity was heightened by an announcement that he proposed to appear +at the theatre in the character of Romeo. There was something so +unlike the impassioned lover in his appearance—so much that indicated +a man with few intellectual gifts—that everybody was prepared for a +failure. No one, however, anticipated the reality. +</P> + +<P> +On the night fixed for his appearance the house was crowded to +suffocation. The playbills had given out that "an amateur of fashion" +would for that night only perform in the character of Romeo; besides, +it was generally whispered that the rehearsals gave indication of +comedy rather than tragedy, and that his readings were of a perfectly +novel character. +</P> + +<P> +The very first appearance of Romeo convulsed the house with laughter. +Benvolio prepares the audience for the stealthy visit of the lover to +the object of his admiration; and fully did the amateur give the +expression to one sense of the words uttered, for he was indeed the +true representative of a thief stealing onwards in the night, "with +Tarquin's ravishing strides," and disguising his face as if he were +thoroughly ashamed of it. The darkness of the scene did not, however, +show his real character so much as the masquerade, when he came forward +with hideous grin, and made what he considered his bow,—which +consisted in thrusting his head forward and bobbing it up and down +several times, his body remaining perfectly upright and stiff, like a +toy mandarin with moveable head. +</P> + +<P> +His dress was outre in the extreme: whether Spanish, Italian, or +English, no one could say; it was like nothing ever worn. In a cloak +of sky-blue silk, profusely spangled, red pantaloons, a vest of white +muslin, surmounted by an enormously thick cravat, and a wig a la +Charles the Second, capped by an opera hat, he presented one of the +most grotesque spectacles ever witnessed upon the stage. The whole of +his garments were evidently too tight for him; and his movements +appeared so incongruous, that every time he raised his arm, or moved a +limb, it was impossible to refrain from laughter: but what chiefly +convulsed the audience was the bursting of a seam in an inexpressible +part of his dress, and the sudden extrusion through the red rent of a +quantity of white linen sufficient to make a Bourbon flag, which was +visible whenever he turned round. This was at first supposed to be a +wilful offence against common decency, and some disapprobation was +evinced; but the utter unconsciousness of the odd creature was soon +apparent, and then urestrained mirth reigned throughout the boxes, pit, +and gallery. The total want of flexibility of limb, the awkwardness of +his gait, and the idiotic manner in which he stood still, all produced +a most ludicrous effect; but when his guttural voice was heard, and his +total misapprehension of every passage in the play, especially the +vulgarity of his address to Juliet, were perceived, everyone was +satisfied that Shakspeare's Romeo was burlesqued on that occasion. +</P> + +<P> +The balcony scene was interrupted by shrieks of laughter, for in the +midst of one of Juliet's impassioned exclamations, Romeo quietly took +out his snuff-box and applied a pinch to his nose; on this a wag in the +gallery bawled out, "I say, Romeo, give us a pinch," when the +impassioned lover, in the most affected manner, walked to the side +boxes and offered the contents of his box first to the gentlemen, and +then, with great gallantry, to the ladies. This new interpretation of +Shakspeare was hailed with loud bravos, which the actor acknowledged +with his usual grin and nod. Romeo then returned to the balcony, and +was seen to extend his arms; but all passed in dumb show, so incessant +were the shouts of laughter. All that went on upon the stage was for a +time quite inaudible, but previous to the soliloquy "I do remember an +apothecary," there was for a moment a dead silence; for in rushed the +hero with a precipitate step until he reached the stage lamps, when he +commenced his speech in the lowest possible whisper, as if he had +something to communicate to the pit that ought not to be generally +known; and this tone was kept up throughout the whole of the soliloquy, +so that not a sound could be heard. +</P> + +<P> +The amateur actor showed many indications of aberration of mind, and +seemed rather the object of pity than of amusement; he, however, +appeared delighted with himself, and also with his audience, for at the +conclusion he walked first to the left of the stage and bobbed his head +in his usual grotesque manner at the side boxes; then to the right, +performing the same feat; after which, going to the centre of the stage +with the usual bob, and placing his hand upon his left breast, he +exclaimed, "Haven't I done it well?" To this inquiry the house, +convulsed as it was with shouts of laughter, responded in such a way as +delighted the heart of Kean on one great occasion, when he said, "The +pit rose at me." The whole audience started up as if with one accord, +giving a yell of derision, whilst pocket-handkerchiefs waved from all +parts of the theatre. +</P> + +<P> +The dying scene was irresistibly comic, and I question if Liston, +Munden, or Joey Knight, was ever greeted with such merriment; for Romeo +dragged the unfortunate Juliet from the tomb, much in the same manner +as a washerwoman thrusts into her cart the bag of foul linen. But how +shall I describe his death? Out came a dirty silk handkerchief from +his pocket, with which he carefully swept the ground; then his opera +hat was carefully placed for a pillow, and down he laid himself. After +various tossings about he seemed reconciled to the position; but the +house vociferously bawled out, "Die again, Romeo!" and, obedient to +the command, he rose up, and went through the ceremony again. Scarcely +had he lain quietly down, when the call was again heard, and the +well-pleased amateur was evidently prepared to enact a third death; but +Juliet now rose up from her tomb, and gracefully put an end to this +ludicrous scene by advancing to the front of the stage and aptly +applying a quotation from Shakspeare:— +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + "Dying is such sweet sorrow,<BR> + That he will die again until to-morrow."<BR> +</P> + +<P> +Thus ended an extravaganza such as has seldom been witnessed; for +although Coates repeated the play at the Haymarket, amidst shouts of +laughter from the playgoers, there never was so ludicrous a performance +as that which took place at Bath on the first night of his appearance. +Eventually he was driven from the stage with much contumely, in +consequence of its having been discovered that, under pretence of +acting for a charitable purpose, he had obtained a sum of money for his +performances. His love of notoriety led him to have a most singular +shell-shaped carriage built, in which, drawn by two fine white horses, +he was wont to parade in the park; the harness, and every available +part of the vehicle (which was really handsome) were blazoned over with +his heraldic device—a cock crowing, and his appearance was heralded by +the gamins of London shrieking out "cock-a-doodle-doo." Coates +eventually quitted London and settled at Boulogne, where a fair lady +was induced to become the partner of his existence, notwithstanding the +ridicule of the whole world. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="hydepark"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +HYDE PARK AFTER THE PENINSULAR WAR +</H3> + +<P> +That extensive district of park land, the entrances of which are in +Piccadilly and Oxford Street, was far more rural in appearance in 1815 +than at the present day. Under the trees cows and deer were grazing; +the paths were fewer and none told of that perpetual tread of human +feet which now destroys all idea of country charms and illusions. As +you gazed from an eminence, no rows of monotonous houses reminded you +of the vicinity of a large city, and the atmosphere of Hyde Park was +then much more like what God has made it than the hazy, gray, +coal-darkened half-twilight of the London of to-day. The company which +then congregated daily about five, was composed of dandies and women in +the best society; the men mounted on such horses as England alone could +then produce. The dandy's dress consisted of a blue coat with brass +buttons, leather breeches, and top boots; and it was the fashion to +wear a deep, stiff white cravat, which prevented you from seeing your +boots while standing. All the world watched Brummell to imitate him, +and order their clothes of the tradesman who dressed that sublime +dandy. One day a youthful beau approached Brummell and said, "Permit +me to ask you where you get your blacking?" "Ah!" replied Brummell, +gazing complacently at his boots, "my blacking positively ruins me. I +will tell you in confidence; it is made with the finest champagne!" +</P> + +<P> +Many of the ladies used to drive into the park in a carriage called a +vis-a-vis, which held only two persons. The hammer-cloth, rich in +heraldic designs, the powdered footmen in smart liveries, and a +coachman who assumed all the gaiety and appearance of a wigged +archbishop, were indispensable. The equipages were generally much more +gorgeous than at a later period, when democracy invaded the parks, and +introduced what may be termed a "brummagem society," with +shabby-genteel carriages and servants. The carriage company consisted +of the most celebrated beauties, amongst whom were remarked the +Duchesses of Rutland, Argyle, Gordon, and Bedford, Ladies Cowper, +Foley, Heathcote, Louisa Lambton, Hertford, and Mountjoy. The most +conspicuous horsemen were the Prince Regent (accompanied by Sir +Benjamin Bloomfield); the Duke of York and his old friend, Warwick +Lake; the Duke of Dorset, on his white horse; the Marquis of Anglesea, +with his lovely daughters; Lord Harrowby and the Ladies Ryder; the Earl +of Sefton and the Ladies Molyneux; and the eccentric Earl of Moreton on +his long-tailed grey. In those days "pretty horsebreakers" would not +have dared to show themselves in Hyde Park; nor did you see any of the +lower or middle classes of London intruding themselves in regions +which, with a sort of tacit understanding, were then given up +exclusively to persons of rank and fashion. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="hotels"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LONDON HOTELS IN 1814 +</H3> + +<P> +There was a class of men, of very high rank, such as Lords Wellington, +Nelson, and Collingwood, Sir John Moore and some few others who never +frequented the clubs. The persons to whom I refer, and amongst whom +were many members of the sporting world, used to congregate at a few +hotels. The Clarendon, Limmer's, Ibbetson's, Fladong's, Stephens', and +Grillon's, were the fashionable hotels. The Clarendon was then kept by +a French cook, Jacquiers, who contrived to amass a large sum of money +in the service of Louis the Eighteenth in England, and subsequently +with Lord Darnley. This was the only public hotel where you could get +a genuine French dinner, and for which you seldom paid less than three +or four pounds; your bottle of champagne or of claret, in the year +1814, costing you a guinea. +</P> + +<P> +Limmer's was an evening resort for the sporting world; in fact, it was +a midnight Tattersal's, where you heard nothing but the language of the +turf, and where men with not very clean hands used to make up their +books. Limmer's was the most dirty hotel in London; but in the gloomy, +comfortless coffee-room might be seen many members of the rich +squirearchy, who visited London during the sporting season. This hotel +was frequently so crowded that a bed could not be obtained for any +amount of money; but you could always get a very good plain English +dinner, an excellent bottle of port, and some famous gin-punch. +Ibbetson's hotel was chiefly patronized by the clergy and young men +from the universities. The charges there were more economical than at +similar establishments. Fladong's, in Oxford Street, was chiefly +frequented by naval men; for in those days there was no club for +sailors. Stephens', in Bond Street, was a fashionable hotel, supported +by officers of the army and men about town. If a stranger asked to +dine there, he was stared at by the servants, and very solemnly assured +that there was no table vacant. It was not an uncommon thing to see +thirty or forty saddle-horses and tilburys waiting outside this hotel. +I recollect two of my old Welsh friends, who used each of them to +dispose of five bottles of wine daily, residing here in 1815, when the +familiar joints, boiled fish and fried soles, were the only eatables +you could order. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="clubs"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE CLUBS OF LONDON IN 1814 +</H3> + +<P> +The members of the clubs in London, many years since, were persons, +almost without exception, belonging exclusively to the aristocratic +world. "My tradesmen," as King Allen used to call the bankers and the +merchants, had not then invaded White's, Boodle's, Brookes', or +Wattiers', in Bolton Street, Piccadilly; which, with the Guards, +Arthur's, and Graham's, were the only clubs at the West End of the +town. White's was decidedly the most difficult of entry; its list of +members comprised nearly all the noble names of Great Britain. +</P> + +<P> +The politics of White's club were then decidedly Tory. It was here +that play was carried on to an extent which made many ravages in large +fortunes, the traces of which have not disappeared at the present day. +General Scott, the father-in-law of George Canning and the Duke of +Portland, was known to have won at White's 200,000£.; thanks to his +notorious sobriety and knowledge of the game of whist. The General +possessed a great advantage over his companions by avoiding those +indulgences at the table which used to muddle other men's brains. He +confined himself to dining off something like a boiled chicken, with +toast-and-water; by such a regimen he came to the whist-table with a +clear head, and possessing as he did a remarkable memory, with great +coolness and judgment, he was able honestly to win the enormous sum of +200,000£. At Brookes', for nearly half a century, the play was of a +more gambling character than at White's. Faro and macao were indulged +in to an extent which enabled a man to win or to lose a considerable +fortune in one night. It was here that Charles James Fox, Selwyn, Lord +Carlisle, Lord Robert Spencer, General Fitzpatrick, and other great +Whigs, won and lost hundreds of thousands; frequently remaining at the +table for many hours without rising. +</P> + +<P> +On one occasion, Lord Robert Spencer contrived to lose the last +shilling of his considerable fortune, given him by his brother, the +Duke of Marlborough; General Fitzpatrick being much in the same +condition, they agreed to raise a sum of money, in order that they +might keep a faro bank. The members of the club made no objection, and +ere long they carried out their design. As is generally the case, the +bank was a winner, and Lord Robert bagged, as his share of the +proceeds, 100,000£. He retired, strange to say, from the foetid +atmosphere of play, with the money in his pocket, and never again +gambled. George Harley Drummond, of the famous banking-house, Charing +Cross, only played once in his whole life at White's Club at whist, on +which occasion he lost 20,000£. to Brummell. This event caused him to +retire from the banking-house of which he was a partner. +</P> + +<P> +Lord Carlisle was one of the most remarkable victims amongst the +players at Brookes', and Charles Fox, his friend, was not more +fortunate, being subsequently always in pecuniary difficulties. Many a +time, after a long night of hard play, the loser found himself at the +Israelitish establishment of Howard and Gibbs, then the fashionable and +patronized money-lenders. These gentlemen never failed to make hard +terms with the borrower, although ample security was invariably +demanded. +</P> + +<P> +The Guards' Club was established for the three regiments of Foot +Guards, and was conducted upon a military system. Billiards and low +whist were the only games indulged in. The dinner was, perhaps, better +than at most clubs, and considerably cheaper. I had the honour of +being a member for several years, during which time I have nothing to +remember but the most agreeable incidents. Arthur's and Graham's were +less aristocratic than those I have mentioned; it was at the latter, +thirty years ago, that a most painful circumstance took place. A +nobleman of the highest position and influence in society was detected +in cheating at cards, and after a trial, which did not terminate in his +favour, he died of a broken heart. +</P> + +<P> +Upon one occasion, some gentlemen of both White's and Brookes' had the +honour to dine with the Prince Regent, and during the conversation, the +Prince inquired what sort of dinners they got at their clubs; upon +which, Sir Thomas Stepney, one of the guests, observed that their +dinners were always the same, "the eternal joints, or beefsteaks, the +boiled fowl with oyster sauce, and an apple tart—this is what we have, +sir, at our clubs, and very monotonous fare it is." The Prince, +without further remark, rang the bell for his cook, Wattier, and, in +the presence of those who dined at the Royal table, asked him whether +he would take a house and organize a dinner club. Wattier assented, +and named Madison, the Prince's page, manager, and Labourie, the cook, +from the Royal kitchen. The club flourished only a few years, owing to +the high play that was carried on there. The Duke of York patronized +it, and was a member. I was a member in 1816, and frequently saw his +Royal Highness there. The dinners were exquisite; the best Parisian +cooks could not beat Labourie. The favourite game played there was +macao. Upon one occasion, Jack Bouvrie, brother of Lady Heytesbury, +was losing large sums, and became very irritable; Raikes, with bad +taste, laughed at Bouverie, and attempted to amuse us with some of his +stale jokes; upon which, Bouverie threw his play-bowl, with the few +counters it contained, at Raikes's head; unfortunately it struck him, +and made the City dandy angry, but no serious results followed this +open insult. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="characters"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +REMARKABLE CHARACTERS OF LONDON ABOUT THE YEARS 1814, 1815, 1816 +</H3> + +<P> +It appears to be a law of natural history that every generation +produces and throws out from the mob of society a few conspicuous men, +that pass under the general appellation of "men about town." Michael +Angelo Taylor was one of those remarkable individuals whom everyone was +glad to know; and those who had not that privilege were ever talking +about him, although he was considered by many a bit of a bore. Michael +Angelo was a Member of Parliament for many years, and generally sat in +one of the most important committees of the House of Commons; for he +was a man of authority and an attractive speaker. In appearance he was +one of that sort of persons whom you could not pass in the streets +without exclaiming, "Who can that be?" His face blushed with port +wine, the purple tints of which, by contrast, caused his white hair to +glitter with silvery brightness; he wore leather breeches, top boots, +blue coat, white waistcoat, and an unstarched and exquisitely white +neckcloth, the whole surmounted by a very broad-brimmed beaver;—such +was the dress of the universally known Michael Angelo Taylor. If you +met him in society, or at the clubs, he was never known to salute you +but with the invariable phrase, "What news have you?" Upon one +occasion, riding through St. James's Park, he met the great Minister, +Mr. Pitt, coming from Wimbledon, where he resided. He asked Mr. Pitt +the usual question, upon which the Premier replied, "I have not yet +seen the morning papers." +</P> + +<P> +"Oh, that won't do, Mr. Pitt. I am Sure that you know something, and +will not tell me." Mr. Pitt good-humouredly replied: "Well, then, I am +going to a Cabinet Council, and I will consult my colleagues whether I +can divulge State secrets to you or not." Upon another occasion, on +entering Boodle's, of which he was a member, he observed the celebrated +Lord Westmoreland at table, where the noble lord was doing justice to a +roast fowl. Taylor, of course, asked him the news of the day, and Lord +Westmoreland coolly told the little newsmonger to go into the other +room and leave him to finish his dinner, promising to join him after he +had done. The noble Lord kept his word, and the first thing he heard +from Mr. Taylor was, "Well, my lord, what news? what had you for +dinner?" +</P> + +<P> +His lordship replied, "A Welsh leg of mutton." "What then—what then?" +"Don't you think a leg of mutton enough for any man?" "Yes, my lord, +but you did not eat it all." "Yes, Taylor, I did." "Well, I think you +have placed the leg of mutton in some mysterious place, for I see no +trace of it in your lean person." +</P> + +<P> +Lord Westmoreland was remarkable for an appetite which made nothing of +a respectable joint, or a couple of fowls. +</P> + +<P> +I know not whether Mr. Poole, the author of Paul Pry, had Michael +Angelo in his head when he wrote that well-known comedy; but certainly +he might have sat for a character whose intrusive and inquisitive +habits were so notorious, that people on seeing him approach always +prepared for a string of almost impertinent interrogations. +</P> + +<P> +Another remarkable man about town was Colonel Cooke, commonly called +Kangaroo Cooke, who was for many years the private aide-de-camp and +secretary of H. R. H. the Duke of York. He was the brother of +General Sir George Cooke and of the beautiful Countess of Cardigan, +mother of the gallant Lord Cardigan, and the Ladies Howe, Baring, and +Lucan. During his career he had been employed in diplomatic +negotiations with the French, previous to the peace of Paris. He was +in the best society, and always attracted attention by his dandified +mode of dress. +</P> + +<P> +Colonel Armstrong, another pet of the Duke of York, was known, when in +the Coldstream Guards, to be a thorough hard-working soldier, and his +non-commissioned officers were so perfect, that nearly all the +adjutants of the different regiments of the line were educated by him. +He was a strict disciplinarian, but strongly opposed to corporal +punishment, and used to boast that during the whole time that he +commanded the regiment only two men had been flogged. +</P> + +<P> +Colonel Mackinnon, commonly called "Dan," was an exceedingly well-made +man, and remarkable for his physical powers in running, jumping, +climbing, and such bodily exercises as demanded agility and muscular +strength. He used to amuse his friends by creeping over the furniture +of a room like a monkey. It was very common for his companions to make +bets with him: for example, that he would not be able to climb up the +ceiling of a room, or scramble over a certain house-top. Grimaldi, the +famous clown, used to say, "Colonel Mackinnon has only to put on the +motley costume, and he would totally eclipse me." +</P> + +<P> +Mackinnon was famous for practical jokes; which were, however, always +played in a gentlemanly way. Before landing at St. Andero's, with some +other officers who had been on leave in England, he agreed to personate +the Duke of York, and make the Spaniards believe that his Royal +Highness was amongst them. On nearing the shore, a royal standard was +hoisted at the masthead, and Mackinnon disembarked, wearing the star of +his shako on his left breast, and accompanied by his friends, who +agreed to play the part of aides-de-camp to royalty. The Spanish +authorities were soon informed of the arrival of the Royal +Commander-in-Chief of the British army; so they received Mackinnon with +the usual pomp and circumstance attending such occasions. The mayor of +the place, in honour of the illustrious arrival, gave a grand banquet, +which terminated with the appearance of a huge bowl of punch. Whereupon +Dan, thinking that the joke had gone far enough, suddenly dived his +head into the porcelain vase, and threw his heels into the air. The +surprise and indignation of the solemn Spaniards was such, that they +made a most intemperate report of the hoax that had been played on them +to Lord Wellington; Dan, however, was ultimately forgiven, after a +severe reprimand. +</P> + +<P> +Another of his freaks very nearly brought him to a court-martial. Lord +Wellington was curious about visiting a convent near Lisbon, and the +lady abbess made no difficulty; Mackinnon, hearing this, contrived to +get clandestinely within the sacred walls, and it was generally +supposed that it was neither his first nor his second visit. At all +events, when Lord Wellington arrived, Dan Mackinnon was to be seen +among the nuns, dressed out in their sacred costume, with his head and +whiskers shaved, and as he possessed good features, he was declared to +be one of the best-looking amongst those chaste dames. It was supposed +that this adventure, which was known to Lord Byron, suggested a similar +episode in Don Juan, the scene being laid in the East. I might say +more about Dan's adventures in the convent, but have no wish to be +scandalous. +</P> + +<P> +Another dandy of the day was Sir Lumley Skeffington, who used to paint +his face, so that he looked like a French toy; he dressed a la +Robespierre, and practised other follies, although the consummate old +fop was a man of literary attainments, and a great admirer and patron +of the drama. Skeffington was remarkable for his politeness and courtly +manners; in fact, he was invited everywhere, and was very popular with +the ladies. You always knew of his approach by an avant-courier of +sweet smells; and when he advanced a little nearer, you might suppose +yourself in the atmosphere of a perfumer's shop. He is thus +immortalized by Byron, in the English Bards and Scotch Reviewers, +alluding to the play written by Skeffington, The Sleeping Beauty:— +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + "In grim array though Lewis' spectres rise,<BR> + Still Skeffington and Goose divide the prize:<BR> + And sure great Skeffington must claim our praise,<BR> + For skirtless coats and skeletons of plays<BR> + Renowned alike; whose genius ne'er confines<BR> + Her flight to garnish Greenwood's gay designs,<BR> + Nor sleeps with 'sleeping beauties' but anon<BR> + In five facetious acts comes thundering on,<BR> + While poor John Bull, bewildered with the scene,<BR> + Stares, wondering what the devil it can mean;<BR> + But as some hands applaud—a venal few—<BR> + Rather than sleep, John Bull applauds it too."<BR> +</P> + +<P> +Long Wellesley Pole was a fashionable who distinguished himself by +giving sumptuous dinners at Wanstead, where he owned one of the finest +mansions in England. He used to ask his friends to dine with him after +the opera at midnight; the drive from London being considered +appetisant. Every luxury that money could command was placed before +his guests at this unusual hour of the night. He married Miss Tylney +Pole, an heiress of fifty thousand a-year, yet died quite a beggar: in +fact, he would have starved, had it not been for the charity of his +cousin, the present Duke of Wellington, who allowed him three hundred +a-year. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="guards"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE GUARDS MARCHING FROM ENGHIEN ON THE 15TH OF JUNE +</H3> + +<P> +Two battalions of my regiment had started from Brussels; the other (the +2nd), to which I belonged, remained in London, and I saw no prospect of +taking part in the great events which were about to take place on the +Continent. Early in June I had the honour of dining with Colonel +Darling, the deputy adjutant-general, and I was there introduced to Sir +Thomas Picton, as a countryman and neighbour of his brother, Mr. +Turbeville, of Evenney Abbey, in Glamorganshire. He was very gracious, +and, on his two aides-de-camp—Major Tyler and my friend Chambers, of +the Guards—lamenting that I was obliged to remain at home, Sir Thomas +said, "Is the lad really anxious to go out?" Chambers answered that it +was the height of my ambition. Sir Thomas inquired if all the +appointments to his staff were filled up; and then added, with a grim +smile, "If Tyler is killed, which is not at all unlikely, I do not know +why I should not take my young countryman: he may go over with me if he +can get leave." I was overjoyed at this, and, after thanking the +General a thousand times, made my bow and retired. +</P> + +<P> +I was much elated at the thoughts of being Picton's aide-de-camp, +though that somewhat remote contingency depended upon my friends Tyler, +or Chambers, or others, meeting with an untimely end; but at eighteen +on ne doute de rien. So I set about thinking how I should manage to get +my outfit, in order to appear at Brussels in a manner worthy of the +aide-de-camp of the great General. As my funds were at a low ebb, I +went to Cox and Greenwood's, those staunch friends of the hard-up +soldier. Sailors may talk of the "little cherub that sits up aloft," +but commend me for liberality, kindness, and generosity, to my old +friends in Craig's Court. I there obtained 200£., which I took with me +to a gambling-house in St. James' Square, where I managed, by some +wonderful accident, to win 600£.; and, having thus obtained the sinews +of war, I made numerous purchases, amongst others two first-rate horses +at Tattersall's for a high figure, which were embarked for Ostend, +along with my groom. I had not got leave; but I thought I should get +back, after the great battle that appeared imminent, in time to mount +guard at St. James's. On a Saturday I accompanied Chambers in his +carriage to Ramsgate, where Sir Thomas Picton and Tyler had already +arrived; we remained there for the Sunday, and embarked on Monday in a +vessel which had been hired for the General and suite. On the same day +we arrived at Ostend, and put up at an hotel in the square; where I was +surprised to hear the General, in excellent French, get up a flirtation +with our very pretty waiting-maid. +</P> + +<P> +Sir Thomas Picton was a stern-looking, strong-built man, about the +middle height, and considered very like the Hetman Platoff. He +generally wore a blue frock-coat, very tightly buttoned up to the +throat; a very large black silk neckcloth, showing little or no +shirt-collar; dark trousers, boots, and a round hat: it was in this +very dress that he was attired at Quatre Bras, as he had hurried off to +the scene of action before his uniform arrived. After sleeping at +Ostend, the General and Tyler went the next morning to Ghent, and on +Thursday to Brussels. I proceeded by boat to Ghent, and, without +stopping, hired a carriage, and arrived in time to order rooms for Sir +Thomas at the Hotel d'Angleterre, Rue de la Madeleine, at Brussels: our +horses followed us. +</P> + +<P> +While we were at breakfast, Colonel Canning came to inform the General +that the Duke of Wellington wished to see him immediately. Sir Thomas +lost not a moment in obeying the order of his chief, leaving the +breakfast-table and proceeding to the park, where Wellington was +walking with Fitzroy Somerset and the Duke of Richmond. Picton's +manner was always more familiar than the Duke liked in his lieutenants, +and on this occasion he approached him in a careless sort of way, just +as he might have met an equal. The Duke bowed coldly to him, and said, +"I am glad you are come, Sir Thomas; the sooner you get on horseback +the better; no time is to be lost. You will take the command of the +troops in advance. The Prince of Orange knows by this time that you +will go to his assistance." Picton appeared not to like the Duke's +manner; for, when he bowed and left, he muttered a few words which +convinced those who were with him that he was not much pleased with his +interview. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="quatrebras"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +QUATRE BRAS +</H3> + +<P> +I got upon the best of my two horses, and followed Sir Thomas Picton +and his staff to Quatre Bras at full speed. His division was already +engaged in supporting the Prince of Orange, and had deployed itself in +two lines in front of the road to Sombref when he arrived. Sir Thomas +immediately took the command. Shortly afterwards, Kempt's and Pack's +brigades arrived by the Brussels road, and part of Alten's division by +the Nivelles road. +</P> + +<P> +Ney was very strong in cavalry, and our men were constantly formed into +squares to receive them. The famous Kellerman, the hero of Marengo, +tried a last charge, and was very nearly being taken or killed, as his +horse was shot under him when very near us. Wellington at last took +the offensive;—a charge was made against the French, which succeeded, +and we remained masters of the field. I acted as a mere spectator, and +got, on one occasion, just within twenty or thirty yards of some of the +cuirassiers; but my horse was too quick for them. +</P> + +<P> +On the 17th, Wellington retreated upon Waterloo, about eleven o'clock. +The infantry were masked by the cavalry in two lines, parallel to the +Namur road. Our cavalry retired on the approach of the French cavalry, +in three columns, on the Brussels road. A torrent of rain fell, upon +the Emperor's ordering the heavy cavalry to charge us; while the fire +of sixty or eighty pieces of cannon showed that we had chosen our +position at Waterloo. Chambers said to me, "Now, Gronow, the loss has +been very severe in the Guards, and I think you ought to go and see +whether you are wanted; for, as you have really nothing to do with +Picton, you had better join your regiment, or you may get into a +scrape." Taking his advice, I rode off to where the Guards were +stationed; the officers—amongst whom I remember Colonel Thomas and +Brigade-Major Miller—expressed their astonishment and amazement on +seeing me, and exclaimed, "What the deuce brought you here? Why are +you not with your battalion in London? Get off your horse, and explain +how you came here!" +</P> + +<P> +Things were beginning to look a little awkward, when Gunthorpe, the +adjutant, a great friend of mine, took my part and said, "As he is +here, let us make the most of him; there's plenty of work for everyone. +Come, Gronow, you shall go with the Hon. Captain Clements and a +detachment to the village of Waterloo, to take charge of the French +prisoners." I said, "What the deuce shall I do with my horse?" Upon +which the Hon. Captain Stopford, aide-de-camp to Sir John Byng, +volunteered to buy him. Having thus once more become a foot soldier, I +started according to orders, and arrived at Waterloo. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="waterloo"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE FIELD OF WATERLOO +</H3> + +<P> +The day on which the battle of Waterloo was fought seemed to have been +chosen by some providential accident for which human wisdom is unable +to account. On the morning of the 18th the sun shone most gloriously, +and so clear was the atmosphere that we could see the long, imposing +lines of the enemy most distinctly. Immediately in front of the +division to which I belonged, and, I should imagine, about half a mile +from us, were posted cavalry and artillery; and to the right and left +the French had already engaged us, attacking Huguemont and La Haye +Sainte. We heard incessantly the measured boom of artillery, +accompanied by the incessant rattling echoes of musketry. +</P> + +<P> +The whole of the British infantry not actually engaged were at that +time formed into squares; and as you looked along our lines, it seemed +as if we formed a continuous wall of human beings. I recollect +distinctly being able to see Bonaparte and his staff; and some of my +brother officers using the glass, exclaimed, "There he is on his white +horse." I should not forget to state that when the enemy's artillery +began to play on us, we had orders to lie down, when we could hear the +shot and shell whistling around us, killing and wounding great numbers; +then again we were ordered on our knees to receive cavalry. The French +artillery—which consisted of three hundred guns, though we did not +muster more than half that number—committed terrible havoc during the +early part of the battle, whilst we were acting on the defensive. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="wellington"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON IN OUR SQUARE +</H3> + +<P> +About four P.M. the enemy's artillery in front of us ceased firing all +of a sudden, and we saw large masses of cavalry advance: not a man +present who survived could have forgotten in after life the awful +grandeur of that charge. You discovered at a distance what appeared to +be an overwhelming, long moving line, which, ever advancing, glittered +like a stormy wave of the sea when it catches the sunlight. On they +came until they got near enough, whilst the very earth seemed to +vibrate beneath the thundering tramp of the mounted host. One might +suppose that nothing could have resisted the shock of this terrible +moving mass. They were the famous cuirassiers, almost all old soldiers, +who had distinguished themselves on most of the battlefields of Europe. +In an almost incredibly short period they were within twenty yards of +us, shouting "Vive l'Empereur!" The word of command, "Prepare to +receive cavalry," had been given, every man in the front ranks knelt, +and a wall bristling with steel, held together by steady hands, +presented itself to the infuriated cuirassiers. +</P> + +<P> +I should observe that just before this charge the duke entered by one +of the angles of the square, accompanied only by one aide-de-camp; all +the rest of his staff being either killed or wounded. Our +commander-in-chief, as far as I could judge, appeared perfectly +composed; but looked very thoughtful and pale. He was dressed in a +grey great-coat with a cape, white cravat, leather pantaloons, Hessian +boots, and a large cocked hat a la Russe. +</P> + +<P> +The charge of the French cavalry was gallantly executed; but our +well-directed fire brought men and horses down, and ere long the utmost +confusion arose in their ranks. The officers were exceedingly brave, +and by their gestures and fearless bearing did all in their power to +encourage their men to form again and renew the attack. The duke sat +unmoved, mounted on his favourite charger. I recollect his asking the +Hon. Lieut.-Colonel Stanhope what o'clock it was, upon which Stanhope +took out his watch, and said it was twenty minutes past four. The Duke +replied, "The battle is mine; and if the Prussians arrive soon, there +will be an end of the war." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="cavalry"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE FRENCH CAVALRY CHARGING THE BRUNSWICKERS +</H3> + +<P> +Soon after the cuirassiers had retired, we observed to our right the +red hussars of the Garde Imperiale charging a square of Brunswick +riflemen, who were about fifty yards from us. This charge was +brilliantly executed, but the well-sustained fire from the square +baffled the enemy, who were obliged to retire after suffering a severe +loss in killed and wounded. The ground was completely covered with +those brave men, who lay in various positions, mutilated in every +conceivable way. Among the fallen we perceived the gallant colonel of +the hussars lying under his horse, which had been killed, All of a +sudden two riflemen of the Brunswickers left their battalion, and after +taking from their helpless victim his purse, watch, and other articles +of value, they deliberately put the colonel's pistols to the poor +fellow's head and blew out his brains. "Shame! shame!" was heard from +our ranks, and a feeling of indignation ran through the whole line; but +the deed was done: this brave soldier lay a lifeless corpse in sight of +his cruel foes, whose only excuse perhaps was that their sovereign, the +Duke of Brunswick, had been killed two days before by the French. +</P> + +<P> +Again and again various cavalry regiments, heavy dragoons, lancers, +hussars, carabineers of the Guard, endeavoured to break our walls of +steel. The enemy's cavalry had to advance over ground which was so +heavy that they could not reach us except at a trot; they therefore +came upon us in a much more compact mass than they probably would have +done if the ground had been more favourable. When they got within ten +or fifteen yards they discharged their carbines, to the cry of "Vive l' +Empereur!" their fire produced little effect, as that of cavalry +generally does. Our men had orders not to fire unless they could do so +on a near mass; the object being to economize our ammunition, and not +to waste it on scattered soldiers. The result was, that when the +cavalry had discharged their carbines, and were still far off, we +occasionally stood face to face, looking at each other inactively, not +knowing what the next move might be. The lancers were particularly +troublesome, and approached us with the utmost daring. On one occasion +I remember, the enemy's artillery having made a gap in the square, the +lancers were evidently waiting to avail themselves of it, to rush among +us, when Colonel Staples at once observing their intention, with the +utmost promptness filled up the gap, and thus again completed our +impregnable steel wall; but in this act he fell mortally wounded. The +cavalry seeing this, made no attempt to carry out their original +intentions, and observing that we had entirely regained our square, +confined themselves to hovering round us. I must not forget to mention +that the lancers in particular never failed to despatch our wounded +whenever they had an opportunity of doing so. +</P> + +<P> +When we received cavalry, the order was to fire low; so that on the +first discharge of musketry the ground was strewed with the fallen +horses and their riders, which impeded the advance of those behind them +and broke the shock of the charge. It was pitiable to witness the +agony of the poor horses, who really seemed conscious of the dangers +that surrounded them: we often saw a poor wounded animal raise its +head, as if looking for its rider to afford him aid. There is nothing +perhaps amongst the episodes of a great battle more striking than the +debris of a cavalry charge, where men and horses are seen scattered and +wounded on the ground in every variety of painful attitude. Many a time +the heart sickened at the moaning tones of agony which came from man +and scarcely less intelligent horse, as they lay in fearful agony upon +the field of battle. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="charge"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE LAST CHARGE AT WATERLOO +</H3> + +<P> +It was about five o'clock on that memorable day, that we suddenly +received orders to retire behind an elevation in our rear. The enemy's +artillery had come up en masse within a hundred yards of us. By the +time they began to discharge their guns, however, we were lying down +behind the rising ground, and protected by the ridge before referred +to. The enemy's cavalry was in the rear of their artillery, in order +to be ready to protect it if attacked; but no attempt was made on our +part to do so. After they had pounded away at us for about half an +hour, they deployed, and up came the whole mass of the Imperial +infantry of the Guard, led on by the Emperor in person. We had now +before us probably about 20,000 of the best soldiers in France, the +heroes of many memorable victories; we saw the bearskin caps rising +higher and higher as they ascended the ridge of ground which separated +us, and advanced nearer and nearer to our lines. It was at this moment +the Duke of Wellington gave his famous order for our bayonet charge, as +he rode along the line: these are the precise words he made use +of—"Guards, get up and charge!" We were instantly on our legs, and +after so many hours of inaction and irritation at maintaining a purely +defensive attitude—all the time suffering the loss of comrades and +friends—the spirit which animated officers and men may easily be +imagined. After firing a volley as soon as the enemy were within shot, +we rushed on with fixed bayonets, and that hearty hurrah peculiar to +British soldiers. +</P> + +<P> +It appeared that our men, deliberately and with calculation, singled +out their victims; for as they came upon the Imperial Guard our line +broke, and the fighting became irregular. The impetuosity of our men +seemed almost to paralyze their enemies: I witnessed several of the +Imperial Guard who were run through the body apparently without any +resistance on their parts. I observed a big Welshman of the name of +Hughes, who was six feet seven inches in height, run through with his +bayonet, and knock down with the butt end of his firelock, I should +think a dozen at least of his opponents. This terrible contest did not +last more than ten minutes, for the Imperial Guard was soon in full +retreat, leaving all their guns and many prisoners in our hands. The +famous General Cambronne was taken prisoner fighting hand to hand with +the gallant Sir Colin Halkett, who was shortly after shot through the +cheeks by a grape-shot. Cambronne's supposed answer of "La Garde ne se +rend pas" was an invention of after-times, and he himself always denied +having used such an expression. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="huguemont"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +HUGUEMONT +</H3> + +<P> +Early on the morning after the battle of Waterloo, I visited Huguemont, +in order to witness with my own eyes the traces of one of the most +hotly-contested spots of the field of battle. I came first upon the +orchard, and there discovered heaps of dead men, in various uniforms: +those of the Guards in their usual red jackets, the German Legion in +green, and the French dressed in blue, mingled together. The dead and +the wounded positively covered the whole area of the orchard; not less +than two thousand men had there fallen. The apple-trees presented a +singular appearance; shattered branches were seen hanging about their +mother-trunks in such profusion that one might almost suppose the +stiff-growing and stunted tree had been converted into the willow: +every tree was riddled and smashed in a manner which told that the +showers of shot had been incessant. On this spot I lost some of my +dearest and bravest friends, and the country had to mourn many of its +most heroic sons slain here. +</P> + +<P> +I must observe that, according to the custom of commanding officers, +whose business it is after a great battle to report to the +Commander-in-Chief, the muster-roll of fame always closes before the +rank of captain. It has always appeared to me a great injustice that +there should ever be any limit to the roll of gallantry of either +officers or men. If a captain, lieutenant, an ensign, a sergeant, or a +private, has distinguished himself for his bravery, his intelligence, +or both, their deeds ought to be reported, in order that the sovereign +and nation should know who really fight the great battles of England. +Of the class of officers and men to which I have referred, there were +many of even superior rank who were omitted to be mentioned in the +public despatches. +</P> + +<P> +Thus, for example, to the individual courage of Lord Saltoun and +Charley Ellis, who commanded the light companies, was mainly owing our +success at Huguemont. The same may be said of Needham, Percival, +Erskine, Grant, Vyner, Buckley, Master, and young Algernon Greville, +who at that time could not have been more than seventeen years old. +Excepting Percival, whose jaws were torn away by a grape-shot, everyone +of these heroes miraculously escaped. +</P> + +<P> +I do not wish, in making these observations, to detract from the +bravery and skill of officers whose names have already been mentioned +in official despatches, but I think it only just that the services of +those I have particularized should not be forgotten by one of their +companions in arms. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="byng"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BYNG WITH HIS BRIGADE AT WATERLOO +</H3> + +<P> +No individual officer more distinguished himself than did General Byng +at the battle of Waterloo. In the early part of the day he was seen at +Huguemont, leading his men in the thick of the fight; later he was with +the battalion in square, where his presence animated to the utmost +enthusiasm both officers and men. It is difficult to imagine how this +courageous man passed through such innumerable dangers from shot and +shell without receiving a single wound. I must also mention some other +instances of courage and devotion in officers belonging to this +brigade; for instance, it was Colonel MacDonell, a man of colossal +stature, with Hesketh, Bowes, Tom Sowerby, and Hugh Seymour, who +commanded from the inside the Chateau of Huguemont. When the French +had taken possession of the orchard, they made a rush at the principal +door of the chateau, which had been turned into a fortress. MacDonell +and the above officers placed themselves, accompanied by some of their +men, behind the portal and prevented the French from entering. Amongst +other officers of that brigade who were most conspicuous for bravery, I +would record the names of Montague, the "vigorous Gooch," as he was +called, and the well-known Jack Standen. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="richmond"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE LATE DUKE OF RICHMOND +</H3> + +<P> +One of the most intimate friends of the Duke of Wellington was the Earl +of March, afterwards Duke of Richmond. He was a genuine hard-working +soldier, a man of extraordinary courage, and one who was ever found +ready to gain laurels amidst the greatest dangers. When the 7th +Fusiliers crossed the Bidassoa, the late duke left the staff and joined +the regiment in which he had a company. At Orthes, in the thick of the +fight, he received a shot which passed through his lungs; from this +severe wound he recovered sufficiently to be able to join the Duke of +Wellington, to whom he was exceedingly useful at the battle of +Waterloo. On his return to England, he united himself to the most +remarkably beautiful girl of the day, the eldest daughter of Lord +Anglesea, and whose mother was the lovely Duchess of Argyle. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="unfortunate"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE UNFORTUNATE CHARGE OF THE HOUSEHOLD BRIGADE +</H3> + +<P> +When Lord Uxbridge gave orders to Sir W. Ponsonby and Lord Edward +Somerset to charge the enemy, our cavalry advanced with the greatest +bravery, cut through everything in their way, and gallantly attacked +whole regiments of infantry; but eventually they came upon a masked +battery of twenty guns, which carried death and destruction through our +ranks, and our poor fellows were obliged to give way. The French +cavalry followed on their retreat, when, perhaps, the severest +hand-to-hand cavalry fighting took place within the memory of man. The +Duke of Wellington was perfectly furious that this arm had been engaged +without his orders, and lost not a moment in sending them to the rear, +where they remained during the rest of the day. This disaster gave the +French cavalry an opportunity of annoying and insulting us, and +compelled the artillerymen to seek shelter in our squares; and if the +French had been provided with tackle, or harness of any description, +our guns would have been taken. It is, therefore, not to be wondered +at that the Duke should have expressed himself in no measured terms +about the cavalry movements referred to. I recollect that, when his +grace was in our square, our soldiers were so mortified at seeing the +French deliberately walking their horses between our regiment and those +regiments to our right and left, that they shouted, "Where are our +cavalry? why don't they come and pitch into those French fellows?" +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="opinion"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON'S OPINION OF THE FRENCH CAVALRY +</H3> + +<P> +A day or two after our arrival in Paris from Waterloo, Colonel Felton +Hervey having entered the dining-room with the despatches which had +come from London, the Duke asked, "What news have you, Hervey?" upon +which, Colonel Felton Hervey answered, "I observe by the Gazette that +the Prince Regent has made himself Captain-General of the Life Guards +and Blues, for their brilliant conduct at Waterloo." +</P> + +<P> +"Ah!" replied the Duke, "his Royal Highness is our Sovereign, and can +do what he pleases; but this I will say, the cavalry of other European +armies have won victories for their generals, but mine have invariably +got me into scrapes. It is true that they have always fought gallantly +and bravely, and have generally got themselves out of their +difficulties by sheer pluck." +</P> + +<P> +The justice of this observation has since been confirmed by the charge +at Balaklava, where our cavalry undauntedly rushed into the face of +death under the command of that intrepid officer Lord Cardigan. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="excelmann"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +MARSHAL EXCELMANN'S OPINION OF THE BRITISH CAVALRY +</H3> + +<P> +Experience has taught me that there is nothing more valuable than the +opinions of intelligent foreigners on the military and naval +excellences, and the failures, of our united service. Marshal +Excelmann's opinion about the British cavalry struck me as remarkably +instructive: he used to say, "Your horses are the finest in the world, +and your men ride better than any Continental soldiers; with such +materials, the English cavalry ought to have done more than has ever +been accomplished by them on the field of battle. The great deficiency +is in your officers, who have nothing to recommend them but their dash +and sitting well in their saddles; indeed, as far as my experience +goes, your English generals have never understood the use of cavalry: +they have undoubtedly frequently misapplied that important arm of a +grand army, and have never, up to the battle of Waterloo, employed the +mounted soldier at the proper time and in the proper place. The +British cavalry officer seems to be impressed with the conviction that +he can dash and ride over everything; as if the art of war were +precisely the same as that of fox-hunting. I need not remind you of +the charge of your two heavy brigades at Waterloo: this charge was +utterly useless, and all the world knows they came upon a masked +battery, which obliged a retreat, and entirely disconcerted +Wellington's plans during the rest of the day." +</P> + +<P> +"Permit me," he added, "to point out a gross error as regards the dress +of your cavalry. I have seen prisoners so tightly habited that it was +impossible for them to use their sabres with facility." The French +Marshal concluded by observing—"I should wish nothing better than such +material as your men and horses are made of; since with generals who +wield cavalry, and officers who are thoroughly acquainted with that +duty in the field, I do not hesitate to say I might gain a battle." +</P> + +<P> +Such was the opinion of a man of cool judgment, and one of the most +experienced cavalry officers of the day. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="paris"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +APPEARANCE OF PARIS WHEN THE ALLIES ENTERED +</H3> + +<P> +I propose giving my own impression of the aspect of Paris and its +vicinity when our regiment entered that city on the 25th of June, 1815. +I recollect we marched from the plain of St. Denis, my battalion being +about five hundred strong, the survivors of the heroic fight of the +18th of June. We approached near enough to be within fire of the +batteries of Montmartre, and bivouacked for three weeks in the Bois de +Boulogne. That now beautiful garden was at the period to which I refer +a wild pathless wood, swampy, and entirely neglected. The Prussians, +who were in bivouac near us, amused themselves by doing as much damage +as they could, without any useful aim or object: they cut down the +finest trees, and set the wood on fire at several points. There were +about three thousand of the Guards then encamped in the wood, and I +should think about ten thousand Prussians. Our camp was not remarkable +for its courtesy towards them; in fact, our intercourse was confined to +the most ordinary demands of duty, as allies in an enemy's country. +</P> + +<P> +I believe I was one of the first of the British army who penetrated +into the heart of Paris after Waterloo. I entered by the Porte +Maillot, and passed the Arc de Triomphe, which was then building. In +those days the Champs Elysees only contained a few scattered houses, +and the roads and pathways were ancle deep in mud. The only attempt at +lighting was the suspension of a few lamps on cords, which crossed the +roads. Here I found the Scotch regiments bivouacking; their peculiar +uniform created a considerable sensation amongst the Parisian women, +who did not hesitate to declare that the want of culottes was most +indecent. I passed through the camp, and proceeded on towards the +gardens of the Tuilleries. This ancient palace of the Kings of France +presented, so far as the old front is concerned, the same aspect that +it does at the present day; but there were then no flower-gardens, +although the same stately rows of trees which now ornament the grounds +were then in their midsummer verdure. +</P> + +<P> +Being in uniform, I created an immense amount of curiosity amongst the +Parisians; who, by the way, I fancied regarded me with no loving looks. +The first house I entered was a cafe in the garden of the Tuilleries, +called Legac's. I there met a man who told me he was by descent an +Englishman; though he had been born in Paris, and had really never +quitted France. He approached me, saying, "Sir, I am delighted to see +an English officer in Paris, and you are the first I have yet met +with." He talked about the battle of Waterloo, and gave me some useful +directions concerning restaurants and cafes. Along the Boulevards were +handsome houses, isolated, with gardens interspersed, and the roads +were bordered on both sides with stately, spreading trees, some of them +probably a hundred years old. There was but an imperfect pavement, the +stepping-stones of which were adapted to display the Parisian female +ankle and boot in all their calculated coquetry; and the road showed +nothing but mother earth, in the middle of which a dirty gutter served +to convey the impurities of the city to the river. The people in the +streets appeared sulky and stupefied: here and there I noticed groups +of the higher classes evidently discussing the events of the moment. +</P> + +<P> +How strange humanity would look in our day in the costume of the first +empire. The ladies wore very scanty and short skirts, which left +little or no waist; their bonnets were of exaggerated proportions, and +protruded at least a foot from their faces, and they generally carried +a fan. The men wore blue or black coats, which were baggily made, and +reached down to their ankles; their hats were enormously large, and +spread out at the top. +</P> + +<P> +I dined the first day of my entrance into Paris at the Cafe Anglais, on +the Boulevard des Italiens, where I found to my surprise several of my +brother officers. I recollect the charge for the dinner was about +one-third what it would be at the present day. I had a potage, +fish—anything but fresh, and, according to English predilections and +taste, of course I ordered a beef-steak and pommes de terre. The wine, +I thought, was sour. The dinner cost about two francs. The theatres at +this time, as may easily be imagined, were not very well attended. I +recollect going to the Francais, where I saw for the first time the +famous Talma. There was but a scanty audience; in fact all the best +places in the house were empty. +</P> + +<P> +It may easily be imagined that, at a moment like this, most of those +who had a stake in the country were pondering over the great and real +drama that was then taking place. Napoleon had fled to Rochfort; the +wreck of his army had retreated beyond the Loire; no list of killed and +wounded had appeared; and, strange to say, the official journal of +Paris had made out that the great Imperial army at Waterloo had gained +a victory. There were, nevertheless, hundreds of people in Paris who +knew to the contrary, and many were already aware that they had lost +relations and friends in the great battle. +</P> + +<P> +Louis XVIII. arrived, as well as I can remember, at the Tuileries on +the 26th of July, 1815, and his reception by the Parisians was a +singular illustration of the versatile character of the French nation, +and the sudden and often inexplicable changes which take place in the +feeling of the populace. When the Bourbon, in his old lumbering state +carriage, drove down the Boulevards, accompanied by the Garde du Corps, +the people in the streets and at the windows displayed the wildest joy, +enthusiastically shouting "Vive le Roi!" amidst the waving of hats and +handkerchiefs, while white sheets or white rags were made to do the +duty of a Bourbon banner. The king was dressed in a blue coat with a +red collar, and wore also a white waistcoat and a cocked hat with a +white cockade in it. His portly and good-natured appearance seemed to +be appreciated by the crowd, whom he saluted with a benevolent smile. +I should here mention that two great devotees of the Church sat +opposite to the King on this memorable occasion. The cortege proceeded +slowly down the Rue de la Paix until the Tuileries was reached, where a +company of the Guards, together with a certain number of the Garde +Nationale of Paris, were stationed. +</P> + +<P> +It fell to my lot to be on duty the day after, when the Duke of +Wellington and Lord Castlereagh arrived to pay their respects to the +restored monarch. I happened to be in the Salle des Marechaux when +these illustrious personages passed through that magnificent apartment. +The respect paid to the Duke of Wellington on this occasion may be +easily imagined, from the fact that a number of ladies of the highest +rank, and of course partisans of the legitimate dynasty, formed an +avenue through which the hero of Waterloo passed, exchanging with them +courteous recognitions. The King was waiting in the grand reception +apartment to receive the great British captain. The interview, I have +every reason to believe, was not confined to the courtesies of the +palace. +</P> + +<P> +The position of the Duke was a difficult one. In the first place, he +had to curb the vindictive vandalism of Blucher and his army, who would +have levelled the city of Paris to the ground, if they could have done +so; on the other hand, he had to practise a considerable amount of +diplomacy towards the newly-restored King. At the same time the Duke's +powers from his own Government were necessarily limited. A spirit of +vindictiveness pervaded the restored Court against Napoleon and his +adherents, which the Duke constantly endeavoured to modify. I must not +forget to give an illustration of this state of feeling. It was +actually proposed by Talleyrand, Fouche, and some important +ecclesiastics of the ultra-royalist party, to arrest and shoot the +Emperor Napoleon, who was then at Rochfort: so anxious were they to +commit this criminal, inhuman, and cowardly act, on an illustrious +fallen enemy, who had made the arms of France glorious throughout +Europe, that they suggested to the Duke, who had the command of the old +wooden-armed semaphores, to employ the telegraph to order what I should +have designated by no other name than the assassination of the Caesar +of modern history. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="ney"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +MARSHAL NEY AND WELLINGTON +</H3> + +<P> +As an illustration of the false impressions which are always +disseminated concerning public men, I must record the following +fact:—The Duke of Wellington was accused of being implicated in the +military murder of Ney. Now, so far from this being the truth, I know +positively that the Duke of Wellington used every endeavour to prevent +this national disgrace; but the Church party, ever crafty and ever +ready to profit by the weakness and passions of humanity, supported the +King in his moments of excited revenge. It is a lamentable fact, but +no less historical truth, that the Roman Catholic Church has ever +sought to make the graves of its enemies the foundations of its power. +The Duke of Wellington was never able to approach the King or use his +influence to save Marshal Ney's life; but everything he could do was +done, in order to accomplish his benevolent views. I repeat, the +influence of the ultra-montane party triumphed over the Christian +humanity of the illustrious Duke. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="palais"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE PALAIS ROYAL AFTER THE RESTORATION +</H3> + +<P> +France has often been called the centre of European fashion and gaiety; +and the Palais Royal, at the period to which I refer, might be called +the very heart of French dissipation. It was a theatre in which all +the great actors of fashion of all nations met to play their parts: on +this spot were congregated daily an immense multitude, for no other +purpose than to watch the busy comedy of real life that animated the +corridors, gardens, and saloons of that vast building, which was +founded by Richelieu and Mazarin, and modified by Philippe Egalite. +Mingled together, and moving about the area of this oblong-square block +of buildings, might be seen, about seven o'clock P.M., a crowd of +English, Russian, Prussian, Austrian, and other officers of the Allied +armies, together with countless foreigners from all parts of the world. +Here, too, might have been seen the present King of Prussia, with his +father and brother, the late king, the Dukes of Nassau, Baden, and a +host of continental princes, who entered familiarly into the amusements +of ordinary mortals, dining incog. at the most renowned restaurants, +and flirting with painted female frailty. +</P> + +<P> +A description of one of the houses of the Palais Royal, will serve to +portray the whole of this French pandemonium. On the ground floor is a +jeweller's shop, where may be purchased diamonds, pearls, emeralds, and +every description of female ornament, such as only can be possessed by +those who have very large sums of money at their command. It was here +that the successful gambler often deposited a portion of his winnings, +and took away some costly article of jewellery, which he presented to +some female friend who had never appeared with him at the altar of +marriage. Beside this shop was a staircase, generally very dirty, which +communicated with the floors above. Immediately over the shop was a +cafe, at the counter of which presided a lady, generally of more than +ordinary female attractions, who was very much decolletee, and wore an +amount of jewellery which would have made the eye of an Israelite +twinkle with delight. And there la creme de la creme of male society +used to meet, sip their ice and drink their cup of mocha, whilst +holding long conversations, almost exclusively about gambling and women. +</P> + +<P> +Men's thoughts, in this region, seemed to centre night and day upon the +tapis vert, and at the entrance of this salon was that fatal chamber, +over which might have been written the famous line of Dante, "Voi che +entrate lasciate ogni speranza." The reader will at once understand +that I am referring to the gambling-house, the so-called "hell" of +modern society. In one room was the rouge et noir table, which, from +the hour of twelve in the morning, was surrounded by men in every stage +of the gambling malady. There was the young pigeon, who, on losing his +first feather, had experienced an exciting sensation which, if followed +by a bit of good luck, gave him a confidence that the parasites around +him, in order to flatter his vanity, would call pluck. There were +others in a more advanced stage of the fever, who had long since lost +the greater part of their incomes, having mortgaged their property, and +been in too frequent correspondence with the Jews. These men had not +got to the last stage of gambling despair, but they were so far +advanced on the road to perdition that their days were clouded by +perpetual anxiety, which reproduced itself in their very dreams. The +gambler who has thus far advanced in his career, lives in an inferno of +his own creation: the charms of society, the beauty of woman, the +attractions of the fine arts, and even the enjoyment of a good dinner, +are to him rather a source of irritation than delight. The confirmed +gamester is doing nothing less than perpetually digging a grave for his +own happiness. +</P> + +<P> +The third and most numerous group of men round the tapis vert consisted +of a class most of whom had already spent their fortunes, exhausted +their health, and lost their position in society, by the fatal and +demoralizing thirst for gold, which still fascinated them. These +became the hawks of the gambling table; their quick and wild-glancing +eyes were constantly looking out for suitable game during the day, and +leaving it where it might be bagged at night. Both at the rouge et +noir table and roulette the same sort of company might be met with. +These gambling-houses were the very fountains of immorality: they +gathered together, under the most seductive circumstances, the swindler +and the swindled. There were tables for all classes—the workman might +play with 20 sous, or the gentleman with 10,000 francs. The law did +not prevent any class from indulging in a vice that assisted to fill +the coffers of the municipality of Paris. +</P> + +<P> +The floor over the gambling-house was occupied by unmarried women. I +will not attempt to picture some of the saddest evils of the society of +large cities; but I may add that these Phrynes lived in a style of +splendour which can only be accounted for by the fact of their +participating in the easily-earned gains of the gambling-house regime. +Such was the state of the Palais Royal under Louis XVIII. and Charles +X.: the Palais Royal of the present day is simply a tame and +legitimately-commercial mart, compared with that of olden times. +Society has changed; Government no longer patronizes such nests of +immorality; and though vice may exist to the same extent, it assumes +another garb, and does not appear in the open streets, as at the period +to which I have referred. +</P> + +<P> +At that time, the Palais Royal was externally the only well-lighted +place in Paris. It was the rendezvous of all idlers, and especially of +that particular class of ladies who lay out their attractions for the +public at large. These were to be seen at all hours in full dress, +their bare necks ornamented with mock diamonds and pearls; and thus +decked out in all their finery, they paraded up and down, casting their +eyes significantly on every side. Some strange stories are told in +connection with the gambling houses of the Palais Royal. An officer of +the Grenadier Guards came to Paris on leave of absence, took apartments +here, and never left it until his time of absence had expired. On his +arrival in London one of his friends inquired whether this was true, to +which he replied, "Of course it is; for I found everything I wanted +there, both for body and mind." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="bourbons"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE ENGLISH IN PARIS AFTER THE RESTORATION OF THE BOURBONS +</H3> + +<P> +There is no more ordinary illusion belonging to humanity than that +which enables us to discover, in the fashions of the day, an elegance +and comeliness of dress which a few years after we ourselves regard as +odious caricatures of costume. Thousands of oddly-dressed English +flocked to Paris immediately after the war: I remember that the burden +of one of the popular songs of the day was, "All the world's in Paris;" +and our countrymen and women having so long been excluded from French +modes, had adopted fashions of their own quite as remarkable and +eccentric as those of the Parisians, and much less graceful. British +beauties were dressed in long, strait pelisses of various colours; the +body of the dress was never of the same colour as the skirt; and the +bonnet was of the bee-hive shape, and very small. The characteristic +of the dress of the gentleman was a coat of light blue, or +snuff-colour, With brass buttons, the tail reaching nearly to the +heels; a gigantic bunch of seals dangled from his fob, whilst his +pantaloons were short and tight at the knees; and a spacious waistcoat, +with a voluminous muslin cravat and a frilled shirt, completed the +toilette. The dress of the British military, in its stiff and formal +ugliness, was equally cumbrous and ludicrous. +</P> + +<P> +Lady Oxford—that beautiful and accomplished woman, who lived in her +hotel in the Rue de Clichy—gave charming soirees, at which were +gathered the elite of Paris society. Among these were Edward Montague, +Charles Standish, Hervey Aston, Arthur Upton, "Kangaroo" Cook, Benjamin +Constant, Dupin, Casimir Perier, as well as the chief Orleanists. On +one occasion, I recollect seeing there George Canning and the +celebrated Madame de Stael. Cornwall, the eldest son of the Bishop of +Worcester, had, from some unaccountable cause, a misunderstanding with +Madame de Stael, who appeared very excited, and said to Lady Oxford, in +a loud voice, "Notre ami, M. Cornewal, est grosso, rosso, e furioso." +It should be observed that the gentleman thus characterized was +red-haired, and hasty in temper. All who heard this denunciation were +astounded at the lady's manner, for she looked daggers at the object of +her sarcasm. +</P> + +<P> +Fox, the secretary of the embassy, was an excellent man, but odd, +indolent, and careless in the extreme; he was seldom seen in the +daytime, unless it was either at the embassy in a state of negligee, or +in bed. At night he used to go to the Salon des Etrangers; and, if he +possessed a Napoleon, it was sure to be thrown away at hazard, or rouge +et noir. On one occasion, however, fortune favoured him in a most +extraordinary manner. The late Henry Baring having recommended him to +take the dice-box, Fox replied, "I will do so for the last time, for +all my money is thrown away upon this infernal table." Fox staked all +he had in his pockets; he threw in eleven times, breaking the bank, and +taking home for his share 60,000 francs. After this, several days +passed without any tidings being heard of him; but upon my calling at +the embassy to get my passport vised, I went into his room, and saw it +filled with Cashmere shawls, silk, Chantilly veils, bonnets, gloves, +shoes, and other articles of ladies' dress. On my asking the purpose +of all this millinery, Fox replied, in a good-natured way, "Why, my +dear Gronow, it was the only means to prevent those rascals at the +salon winning back my money." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="anglaises"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LES ANGLAISES POUR RIRE +</H3> + +<P> +An order had been given to the managers of all the theatres in Paris to +admit a certain number of soldiers of the army of occupation, free of +expense. It happened that a party of the Guards, composed of a +sergeant and a few men, went to the Theatre des Varietes on the +Boulevards, where one of the pieces, entitled Les Anglaises pour Rire, +was admirably acted by Potier and Brunet. In this piece Englishwomen +were represented in a very ridiculous light by those accomplished +performers. This gave great offence to our soldiers, and the sergeant +and his men determined to put a stop to the acting; accordingly they +stormed the stage, and laid violent hands upon the actors, eventually +driving them off. The police were called in, and foolishly wanted to +take our men to prison; but they soon found to their cost that they had +to deal with unmanageable opponents, for the whole posse of gendarmes +were charged and driven out of the theatre. A crowd assembled on the +Boulevards; which, however, soon dispersed when it became known that +English soldiers were determined, coute qu'il coute, to prevent their +countrywomen from being ridiculed. It must be remembered that the only +revenge which the Parisians were able to take upon the conquerors was +to ridicule them; and the English generally took it in good humour, and +laughed at the extravagant drollery of the burlesque. +</P> + +<P> +The English soldiers generally walked about Paris in parties of a +dozen, and were quiet and well-behaved. They usually gathered every +day on the Boulevard du Temple, where they were amused with the +mountebanks and jugglers there assembled. +</P> + +<P> +This part of Paris is now completely changed: but at the time I speak +of, it was an extensive open place, where every species of fun was +carried on, as at fairs: there were gambling, rope-dancing, wild +beasts, and shows; booths for the sale of cakes, gingerbread, fruit, +and lemonade; and every species of attraction that pleases the +multitude; but that space has now been built upon, and these sports +have all migrated to the barriers. +</P> + +<P> +During the time our troops remained, we had only one man found dead in +the streets: it was said that he had been murdered; but of that there +was considerable doubt, for no signs of violence were found. This was +strongly in contrast to what occurred to the Prussian soldiers. It was +asserted, and, indeed, proved beyond a doubt, that numbers of them were +assassinated; and in some parts of France it was not unusual to find in +the morning, in deep wells or cellars, several bodies of soldiers of +that nation who had been killed during the night; so strong was the +hatred borne against them by the French. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="coaching"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +COACHING AND RACING IN 1815 +</H3> + +<P> +Stage-coaches, or four-in-hand teams, were introduced in Paris in 1815 +by Captain Bacon, of the 10th Hussars (afterwards a general in the +Portuguese service), Sir Charles Smith, Mr. Roles, the brewer, and +Arnold, of the 10th. They used to meet opposite Demidoff's house, +afterwards the Cafe de Paris, and drive to the Boulevard Beaumarchais, +and then back again, proceeding to the then unfinished Arc du Triomphe. +Crowds assembled to witness the departure of the teams; and it created +no little amusement to the Parisian to see perched upon Sir C. Smith's +coach one or two smartly-dressed ladies, who appeared quite at home. +Sir Charles was likewise a great supporter of the turf, and was the +first man who brought over from England thorough-bred horses. By his +indefatigable energy he contrived to get up very fair racing in the +neighbourhood of Valenciennes; his trainer at this time being Tom +Hurst, who is now, I believe, at Chantilly; and all the officers of our +several cavalry and infantry regiments contributed their efforts to +make these races respectable in the eyes of foreigners. Be this as it +may, they were superior to those in the Champs de Mars, though under +the patronage of the King. +</P> + +<P> +I shall not forget the first time I witnessed racing in Paris, for it +was more like a review of Gensdarmes and National Guards; the course +was kept by a forest of bayonets, while mounted police galloped after +the running horses, and, in some instances, reached the goal before +them. The Duc d' Angouleme, with the Duc de Guiche and the Prefet, were +present; but there was only one small stand, opposite to a sentry-box +where the judge was placed. The running, to say the least of it, was +ridiculous: horses and riders fell; and the fete, as it was called, +ended with a flourish of trumpets. Wonderful changes have taken place +since that time, and at the Bois de Boulogne and at Chantilly may be +seen running equal to that of our best races in England; and our +neighbours produce horses, bred in France, that can carry off some of +the great prizes in our own "Isthmian games." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="cafes"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PARISIAN CAFES IN 1815 +</H3> + +<P> +At the present day, Paris may be said to be a city of cafes and +restaurants. The railroads and steamboats enable the rich of every +quarter of the globe to reach the most attractive of all European +cities with comparative economy and facility. All foreigners arriving +in Paris seem by instinct to rush to the restaurateurs', where +strangers may be counted by tens of thousands. It is not surprising +that we find in every important street these gaudy modern triclinia, +which, I should observe, are as much frequented by a certain class of +French people as by foreigners, for Paris is proverbially fond of +dining out; in fact, the social intercourse may be said to take place +more frequently in the public cafe than under the domestic roof. +</P> + +<P> +In 1815, I need scarcely remark that the condition of the roads in +Europe, and the enormous expense of travelling, made a visit to Paris a +journey which could only be indulged in by a very limited and wealthy +class of strangers. Hotels and cafes were then neither so numerous nor +so splendid as at the present day: Meurice's Hotel was a very +insignificant establishment in the Rue de l'Echiquier; and in the Rue +de la Paix, at that time unfinished, there were but two or three +hotels, which would not be considered even second-rate at the present +time. The site of the Maison Dore, at the corner of the Rue Lafitte, +was then occupied by a shabby building which went by the name of the +Hotel d'Angleterre, and was kept by the popular and once beautiful +Madame Dunan. The most celebrated restaurant was that of Beauvilliers, +in the Rue de Richelieu; mirrors and a little gilding were the +decorative characteristics of this house; the cuisine was far superior +to that of any restaurateur of our day, and the wines were first-rate. +Beauvilliers was also celebrated for his supreme de volaille, and for +his cotelette a la Soubise. The company consisted of the most +distinguished men of Paris; here were to be seen Chateaubriand, Bailly +de Ferrette, the Dukes of Fitzjames, Rochefoucauld, and Grammont, and +many other remarkable personages. It was the custom to go to the +theatres after dinner, and then to the Salon des Etrangers, which was +the Parisian Crockford's. +</P> + +<P> +Another famous dining-house was the Rocher de Cancaille, in the Rue +Mandar, kept by Borel, formerly one of the cooks of Napoleon. Here the +cuisine was so refined that people were reported to have come over from +England expressly for the purpose of enjoying it: indeed, Borel once +showed me a list of his customers, amongst whom I found the names of +Robespierre, Charles James Fox, and the Duke of Bedford. In the Palais +Royal the still well-known Trois Freres Provenceaux was in vogue, and +frequented much by the French officers; being celebrated chiefly for +its wines and its Provence dishes: it was in the Palais Royal that +General Lannes, Junot, Murat, and other distinguished officers, used to +meet Bonaparte just before and during the Consulate; but the cafes, +with the exception of the Mille Colonnes, were not nearly so smartly +fitted-up as they now are. The Cafe Turc, on the Boulevard du Temple, +latterly visited chiefly by shopkeepers, was much frequented: smoking +was not allowed, and then, as now, ladies were seen here; more +especially when the theatres had closed. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="armies"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +REVIEW OF THE ALLIED ARMIES BY THE ALLIED SOVEREIGNS IN PARIS +</H3> + +<P> +In July, 1815, it was agreed by the Sovereigns of Russia, Austria, +Prussia, Bavaria, Wurtemberg, and a host of petty German Powers—who +had become wonderfully courageous and enthusiastically devoted to +England, a few hours after the Battle of Waterloo—that a grand review +should be held on the plains of St. Denis, where the whole of the +allied forces were to meet. Accordingly, at an early hour on a fine +summer morning, there were seen issuing from the various roads which +centre on the plains of St. Denis, numerous English, Russian, +Prussian, and Austrian regiments of horse and foot, in heavy marching +order, with their bands playing; and finally a mass of men, numbering +not less than 200,000, took up their positions on the wide-spreading +field. About twelve o'clock, the Duke of Wellington, +commander-in-chief of the allied army, approached, mounted on a +favourite charger; and, strange as it may appear, on his right was +observed a lady in a plain riding-habit, who was no other than Lady +Shelley, the wife of the late Sir John Shelley. Immediately behind the +Duke followed the Emperors of Austria, and Russia; the Kings of +Prussia, Holland, Bavaria, and Wurtemberg; several German princes, and +general officers; the whole forming one of the most illustrious and +numerous staffs ever brought together. The Duke of Wellington, thus +accompanied, took up his position, and began manoeuvering, with a +facility and confidence which elicited the admiration of all the +experienced soldiers around him. Being on duty near his grace, I had +an opportunity of hearing Prince Schwartzenberg say to the Duke, "You +are the only man who can so well play at this game." The review lasted +two hours; then the men marching home to their quarters, through a +crowd of spectators which included the whole population of Paris. The +most mournful silence was observed throughout on the part of the French. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="russian"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CONDUCT OF THE RUSSIAN AND PRUSSIAN SOLDIERS <BR> +DURING THE OCCUPATION OF PARIS BY THE ALLIES +</H3> + +<P> +It is only just to say that the moderation shown by the British army, +from the Duke of Wellington down to the private soldier, during our +occupation of Paris, contrasted most favourably with that of the +Russian and Prussian military. Whilst we simply did our duty, and were +civil to all those with whom we came in contact, the Russians and +Prussians were frequently most insubordinate, and never lost an +opportunity of insulting a people whose armies had almost always +defeated them on the day of battle. I remember one particular +occasion, when the Emperor of Russia reviewed his Garde Imperiale, that +the Cossacks actually charged the crowd, and inflicted wounds on the +unarmed and inoffensive spectators. I recollect, too, a Prussian +regiment displaying its bravery in the Rue St. Honore on a number of +hackney coachmen; indeed, scarcely a day passed without outrages being +committed by the Russian and Prussian soldiers on the helpless +population of the lower orders. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="embassy"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE BRITISH EMBASSY IN PARIS +</H3> + +<P> +England was represented at this period by Sir Charles Stuart, who was +one of the most popular ambassadors Great Britain ever sent to Paris. +He made himself acceptable to his countrymen, and paid as much +attention to individual interests as to the more weighty duties of +State. His attaches, as is always the case, took their tone and manner +from their chief, and were not only civil and agreeable to all those +who went to the Embassy, but knew everything and everybody, and were of +great use to the ambassador, keeping him well supplied with information +on whatever event might be taking place. The British Embassy, in those +days, was a centre where you were sure to find all the English +gentlemen in Paris collected, from time to time. Dinners, balls, and +receptions, were given with profusion throughout the season: in fact, +Sir Charles spent the whole of his private income in these noble +hospitalities. England was then represented, as it always should be in +France, by an ambassador who worthily expressed the intelligence, the +amiability, and the wealth, of the great country to which he belonged. +At the present day, the British Embassy emulates the solitude of a +monastic establishment; with the exception, however, of that +hospitality and courtesy which the traveller and stranger were wont to +experience, even in monasteries. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="lavalette"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +ESCAPE OF LAVALETTE FROM PRISON +</H3> + +<P> +Few circumstances created a greater sensation than the escape of +Lavalette from the Conciergerie, after he had been destined by the +French Government to give employment to the guillotine. The means by +which the prisoner avoided his fate and disappointed his enemies, +produced a deep respect for the English character, and led the French +to believe that, however much the Governments of France and England +might be disposed to foster feelings either of friendship or of enmity, +individuals could entertain the deepest sense of regard for each other, +and that a chivalrous feeling of honour would urge them on to the +exercise of the noblest feelings of our nature. This incident likewise +had a salutary influence in preventing acts of cruelty and of +bloodshed, which were doubtless contemplated by those in power. +</P> + +<P> +Lavalette had been, under the Imperial Government, head of the Post +Office, which place he filled on the return of the Bourbons; and when +the Emperor Napoleon arrived from Elba, he continued still to be thus +employed. Doubtless, on all occasions when opportunity presented +itself, he did all in his power to serve his great master; to whom, +indeed, he was allied by domestic ties, having married into the +Beauharnais family. When Louis the Eighteenth returned to Paris after +the battle of Waterloo, Lavalette and the unfortunate Marshal Ney were +singled out as traitors to the Bourbon cause, and tried, convicted, and +sentenced to death. The 26th of December was the day fixed for the +execution of Lavalette, a man of high respectability and of great +connections, whose only fault was fidelity to his chief. On the +evening of the 21st, Madame Lavalette, accompanied by her daughter and +her governess, Madame Dutoit, a lady of seventy years of age, presented +herself at the Conciergerie, to take a last farewell of her husband. +She arrived at the prison in a sedan chair. On this very day the +Procureur-general had given an order that no one should be admitted +without an order signed by himself; the greffier having, however, on +previous occasions been accustomed to receive Madame Lavalette with the +two ladies who now sought also to enter the cell, did not object to it; +so these three ladies proposed to take coffee with Lavalette. The under +gaoler was sent to a neighbouring cafe to obtain it, and during his +absence Lavalette exchanged dresses with his wife. He managed to pass +undetected out of the prison, accompanied by his daughter, and entered +the chair in which Madame Lavalette had arrived; which, owing to the +management of a faithful valet, had been placed so that no observation +could be made of the person entering it. The bearers found the chair +somewhat heavier than usual, but were ignorant of the change that had +taken place, and were glad to find, after proceeding a short distance, +that the individual within preferred walking home, and giving up the +sedan to the young lady. On the greffier entering the cell, he quickly +discovered the ruse, and gave the alarm; the under gaoler was +despatched to stop the chair, but he was too late. +</P> + +<P> +Lavalette had formed a friendship with a young Englishman of the name +of Bruce; to whom he immediately had recourse, throwing himself upon +his generosity and kind feeling for protection, which was +unhesitatingly afforded. But as Bruce could do nothing alone, he +consulted two English friends who had shown considerable sympathy for +the fate of Marshal Ney—men of liberal principles and undoubted +honour, and both of them officers in the British service: these were +Captain Hutchinson and General Sir Robert Wilson. To the latter was +committed the most difficult task, that of conveying out of France the +condemned prisoner; but for this achievement few men were better fitted +than Sir Robert Wilson, a man of fertile imagination, ready courage, +great assurance, and singular power of command over others; who spoke +French well, and was intimately acquainted with the military habits of +different nations. +</P> + +<P> +Sir Robert Wilson's career was a singular one: he had commenced life an +ardent enemy of Bonaparte, and it was upon his evidence, collected in +Egypt and published to the world, that the great general was for a long +time believed to have poisoned his wounded soldiers at Jaffa. +Afterwards he was attached to the Allied Sovereigns in their great +campaign; but upon his arrival in Paris, his views of public affairs +became suddenly changed; he threw off the yoke of preconceived +opinions, became an ardent liberal, and so continued to the last hours +of his life. The cause of this sudden change of opinion has never been +thoroughly known, but certain it is that on every occasion he supported +liberal opinions with a firmness and courage that astonished those who +had known him in his earlier days. +</P> + +<P> +Sir Robert undertook, in the midst of great dangers and difficulties, +to convey Lavalette out of France; having dressed him in the uniform of +an English officer, and obtained a passport under a feigned name, he +took him in a cabriolet past the barriers as far as Compiegne, where a +carriage was waiting for them. They passed through sundry examinations +at the fortified towns, but fortunately escaped; the great difficulty +being that, owing to Lavalette's having been the director of the posts, +his countenance was familiar to almost all the postmasters who supplied +relays of horses. At Cambray three hours were lost, from the gates +being shut, and at Valenciennes they underwent three examinations; but +eventually they got out of France. The police, however, became +acquainted with the fact that Lavalette had been concealed in the Rue +de Helder for three days, at the apartments of Mr. Bruce, and this +enabled them to trace all the circumstances, showing that it was at the +apartments of Hutchinson that Lavalette had changed his dress, and that +he had remained there the night before he quitted Paris. The +consequence was that Sir Robert Wilson, Bruce, and Hutchinson, were +tried for aiding the escape of a prisoner; and each of them was +condemned to three months' imprisonment: the under-gaoler, who had +evidently been well paid for services rendered, had two years' +confinement allotted to him. I went to see Sir Robert Wilson during his +stay in the Conciergerie—a punishment not very difficult to bear, but +which marked him as a popular hero for his life. A circumstance I +remember made a strong impression on me, proving that, however great +may be the courage of a man in trying circumstances, a trifling +incident might severely shake his nerves. I was accompanied by a +favourite dog of the Countess of Oxford, who, not being aware of the +high character of Sir Robert, or dissatisfied with his physiognomy, or +for some good canine reason, took a sudden antipathy, and inserted his +teeth into a somewhat fleshy part, but without doing much injury. The +effect, however, on the General was extraordinary: he was most earnest +to have the dog killed; but being certain that the animal was in no way +diseased, I avoided obeying his wishes, and fear that I thus lost the +good graces of the worthy man. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="duelling"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +DUELLING IN FRANCE IN 1815 +</H3> + +<P> +When the restoration of the Bourbons took place, a variety of +circumstances combined to render duelling so common, that scarcely a +day passed without one at least of these hostile meetings. Amongst the +French themselves there were two parties always ready to distribute to +each other "des coups d'epees"—the officers of Napoleon's army and the +Bourbonist officers of the Garde du Corps. Then, again, there was the +irritating presence of the English, Russian, Prussian, and Austrian +officers in the French capital. In the duels between these soldiers +and the French, the latter were always the aggressors. At Tortoni's, +on the Boulevards, there was a room set apart for such quarrelsome +gentlemen, where, after these meetings, they indulged in riotous +champagne breakfasts. At this cafe might be seen all the most notorious +duellists, amongst whom I can call to mind an Irishman in the Garde du +Corps, W—, who was a most formidable fire-eater. The number of duels +in which he had been engaged would seem incredible in the present day: +he is said to have killed nine of his opponents in one year! +</P> + +<P> +The Marquis de H—, descended of an ancient family in Brittany, also in +the Garde du Corps, likewise fought innumerable duels, killing many of +his antagonists. I have heard that on entering the army he was not of +a quarrelsome disposition, but was laughed at, and bullied into +fighting by his brother officers; and, like a wild beast that had once +smelt blood, from the day of his first duel he took a delight in such +fatal scenes—being ever ready to rush at and quarrel with any one. +The marquis has now, I am glad to say, subsided into a very quiet, +placable, and peacemaking old gentleman; but at the time I speak of he +was much blamed for his duel with F—, a young man of nineteen. While +dining at a cafe he exclaimed, "J'ai envie de tuer quelq'un," and +rushed out into the street and to the theatres, trying to pick a +quarrel; but he was so well known that no one was found willing to +encounter him. At last, at the Theatre de la Porte St. Martin, he +grossly insulted this young man, who was, I think, an eleve of the +Ecole Polytechnique, and a duel took place, under the lamp-post near +the theatre, with swords. He ran F— through the body, and left him +dead upon the ground. +</P> + +<P> +The late Marshal St. A— and General J— were great duellists at this +time, with a whole host of others whose names I forget. The meetings +generally took place in the Bois de Boulogne, and the favourite weapon +of the French was the small sword, or the sabre; but foreigners, in +fighting with the French, who were generally capital swordsmen, availed +themselves of the use of pistols. The ground for a duel with pistols +was marked out by indicating two spots, which were twenty-five paces +apart; the seconds then generally proceeded to toss up who should have +the first shot; when the principals were placed, and the word was given +to fire. +</P> + +<P> +The Cafe Foy, in the Palais Royal, was the principal place of +rendezvous for the Prussian officers, and to this cafe the French +officers on half-pay frequently proceeded in order to pick quarrels +with their foreign invaders; swords were quickly drawn, and frequently +the most bloody frays took place: these originated not in any personal +hatred, but from national jealousy on the part of the French, who could +not bear the sight of foreign soldiers in their capital; which, ruled +by the great captain of the age, had, like Rome, influenced the rest of +the world. On one occasion our Guards, who were on duty at the Palais +Royal, were called out to put an end to one of these encounters, in +which fourteen Prussians and ten Frenchmen were either killed or +wounded. +</P> + +<P> +The French took every opportunity of insulting the English; and very +frequently, I am sorry to say, those insults were not met in a manner +to do honour to our character, Our countrymen in general were very +pacific; but the most awkward customer the French ever came across was +my fellow-countryman the late gallant Colonel Sir Charles S—, of the +Engineers, who was ready for them with anything: sword, pistols, sabre, +or fists—he was good at all; and though never seeking a quarrel, he +would not put up with the slightest insult. He killed three Frenchmen +in Paris, in quarrels forced upon him. I remember, in October, 1815, +being asked by a friend to dine at Beauvillier's, in the Rue Richelieu, +when Sir Charles S—, who was well known to us, occupied a table at the +farther end of the room. About the middle of the dinner we heard a +most extraordinary noise, and, on looking up, perceived that it arose +from S—'s table; he was engaged in beating the head of a +smartly-dressed gentleman with one of the long French loaves so well +known to all who have visited France. Upon asking the reason of such +rough treatment on the part of our countryman, he said he would serve +all Frenchmen in the same manner if they insulted him. The offence, it +seems, proceeded from the person who had just been chastised in so +summary a manner: he had stared and laughed at S— in a rude way, for +having ordered three bottles of wine to be placed upon his table. The +upshot of all this was a duel, which took place next day at a place +near Vincennes, and in which S— shot the unfortunate jester. +</P> + +<P> +When Sir Charles returned to Valenciennes, where he commanded the +Engineers, he found on his arrival a French officer waiting to avenge +the death of his relation, who had only been shot ten days before at +Vincennes. They accordingly fought, before S— had time even to shave +himself or eat his breakfast; he having only just arrived in his coupe +from Paris. The meeting took place in the fosse of the fortress, and +the first shot from S—'s pistol killed the French officer, who had +actually travelled in the diligence from Paris for the purpose, as he +boasted to his fellow-travellers, of killing an Englishman. +</P> + +<P> +I recollect dining, in 1816, at Hervey Aston's, at the Hotel Breteuil +in the Rue de Rivoli, opposite the Tuileries, where I met Seymour +Bathurst and Captain E—, of the Artillery, a very good-looking man. +After dinner, Mrs. Aston took us as far as Tortoni's, on her way to the +Opera. On entering the cafe, Captain E— did not touch his hat +according to the custom of the country, but behaved himself, a la John +Bull, in a noisy and swaggering manner; upon which, General, then +Colonel J—, went up to E— and knocked off his hat, telling him that +he hoped he would in future behave himself better. Aston, Bathurst, +and I, waited for some time, expecting to see E— knock J— down, or, +at all events, give him his card as a preliminary to a hostile meeting, +on receiving such an insult; but he did nothing. We were very much +disgusted and annoyed at a countryman's behaving in such a manner, and, +after a meeting at my lodgings, we recommended Captain E—, in the +strongest terms, to call out Colonel J—, but he positively refused to +do so, as he said it was against his principles. This specimen of the +white feather astonished us beyond measure. Captain E— shortly after +received orders to start for India, where I believe he died of +cholera—in all probability of FUNK. +</P> + +<P> +I do not think that Colonel J— would altogether have escaped with +impunity, after such a gratuitous insult to an English officer; but he +retired into the country almost immediately after the incident at +Tortoni's, and could not be found. +</P> + +<P> +There were many men in our army who did not thus disgrace the British +uniform when insulted by the French. I cannot omit the names of my old +friends Captain Burges, Mike Fitzgerald, Charles Hesse, and Thoroton; +each of whom, by their willingness to resent gratuitous offences, +showed that insults to Englishmen were not to be committed with +impunity. The last named officer having been grossly insulted by +Marshal V—, without giving him the slightest provocation, knocked him +down: this circumstance caused a great sensation in Paris, and brought +about a court of inquiry, which ended in the acquittal of Captain +Thoroton. My friend, B—, though he had only one leg, was a good +swordsman, and contrived to kill a man at Lyons who had jeered him +about the loss of his limb at Waterloo. My old and esteemed friend, +Mike Fitzgerald, son of Lord Edward and the celebrated Pamela, was +always ready to measure swords with the Frenchmen; and, after a brawl +at Silves', the then fashionable Bonapartist cafe at the corner of the +Rue Lafitte and the Boulevard, in which two of our Scotch countrymen +showed the white feather, he and another officer placed their own cards +over the chimney-piece in the principal room of the cafe, offering to +fight any man, or number of men, for the frequent public insult offered +to Britons. This challenge, however, was never answered. +</P> + +<P> +A curious duel took place at Beauvais during the occupation of France +by our army. A Captain B—, of one of our cavalry regiments quartered +in that town, was insulted by a French officer, B— demanded +satisfaction, which was accepted; but the Frenchman would not fight +with pistols. B— would not fight with swords; so at last it was agreed +that they should fight on horseback, with lances. The duel took place +in the neighbourhood of Beauvais, and a crowd assembled to witness it. +B— received three wounds; but, by a lucky prod, eventually killed his +man. B— was a fine-looking man and a good horseman. My late friend +the Baron de P—, so well known in Parisian circles, was second to the +Frenchman on this occasion. +</P> + +<P> +A friend of mine—certainly not of a quarrelsome turn, but considered +by his friends, on the contrary, as rather a good-natured man—had +three duels forced upon him in the course of a few weeks. He had +formed a liaison with a person whose extraordinary beauty got him into +several scrapes and disputes. In January 1 1817, a few days after this +acquaintance had been formed, Jack B—, well known at that time in the +best society in London, became madly in love with the fair lady, and +attempted one night to enter her private box at Drury Lane; this my +friend endeavoured to prevent; violent language was used, and a duel +was the consequence. The parties met a few miles from London, in a +field close to the Uxbridge Road, where B—, who was a hot-tempered +man, did his best to kill my friend; but, after the exchange of two +shots, without injury to either party, they were separated by their +seconds. B— was the son of Lady Bridget B—, and the seconds were +Payne, uncle to George Payne, and Colonel Joddrell of the Guards. +</P> + +<P> +Soon after this incident, my friend accompanied the lady to Paris, +where they took up their residence at Meurice's, in the Rue de +l'Echiquier. The day after their arrival, they went out to take a walk +in the Palais Royal, and were followed by a half-pay officer of +Napoleon's army, Colonel D.—a notorious duellist, who observed to the +people about him that he was going to bully "un Anglais." This man was +exceedingly rude in his remarks, uttered in a loud voice; and after +every sort of insult expressed in words, he had the impudence to put +his arm round the lady's waist. My friend indignantly asked the +colonel what he meant; upon which the ruffian spat in my friend's face: +but he did not get off with impunity, for my friend, who had a crab +stick in his hand, caught him a blow on the side of the head, which +dropped him. The Frenchman jumped up, and rushed at the Englishman; +but they were separated by the bystanders. Cards were exchanged, and a +meeting was arranged to take place the next morning in the +neighbourhood of Fassy. When my friend, accompanied by his second, +Captain H—, of the 18th, came upon the ground, he found the colonel +boasting of the number of officers of all nations whom he had killed, +and saying, "I'll now complete my list by killing an Englishman." "Mon +petit tir aura bientot ton conte, car je tire fort bien." My friend +quietly said, "Je ne tire pas mal non plus," and took his place. The +colonel, who seems to have been a horrible ruffian, after a good deal +more swaggering and bravado, placed himself opposite, and, on the +signal being given, the colonel's ball went through my friend's +whiskers, whilst his ball pierced his adversary's heart, who fell dead +without a groan. +</P> + +<P> +This duel made much noise in Paris, and the survivor left immediately +for Chantilly, where he passed some time. On his return to Paris, the +second of the man who had been killed, Commander P., insulted and +challenged my friend. A meeting was accordingly agreed upon, and +pistols were again the weapons used. Again my friend won the toss, and +told his second, Captain H—, that he would not kill his antagonist, +though he richly deserved death for wishing to take the life of a +person who had never offended him; but that he would give him a lesson +which he should remember. My friend accordingly shot his antagonist in +the knee; and I remember to have seen him limping about the streets of +Paris twenty years after this event. +</P> + +<P> +When the result of this second duel was known, not less than eleven +challenges from Bonapartists were received by the gentleman in +question; but any further encounters were put a stop to by the Minister +of War, or the Duc d'Angouleme (I forget which), who threatened to +place the officers under arrest if they followed up this quarrel any +further. When the news reached England, the Duke of York said that my +friend could not have acted otherwise than he had done in the first +duel, considering the gross provocation that he had received; but he +thought it would have been better if the second duel had been avoided. +</P> + +<P> +In the deeds I have narrated, the English seem to have had the +advantage, but many others took place, in which Englishmen were killed +or wounded: these I have not mentioned, as their details do not recur +to my memory; but I do not remember a single occasion on which +Frenchmen were not the aggressors. At a somewhat later period than +this, the present Marquis of H—, then Lord B—, had a duel with the +son of the Bonapartist General L—. General S— was Lord B—'s second, +and the principals exchanged several shots without injury to either +party. This duel, like the preceding, originated with the Frenchman, +who insulted the Englishman at the Theatre Francais in the most +unprovoked manner. At the present day our fiery neighbours are much +more amenable to reason, and if you are but civil, they will be civil +to you; duels consequently are of rare occurrence. Let us hope that the +frequency and the animus displayed in these hostile meetings originated +in national wounded vanity rather than in personal animosity. +</P> + +<P> +In the autumn of 1821 I was living in Paris, when my old friend H—, +Adjutant of the 1st Foot Guards, called upon me, and requested that I +would be his second in a duel with Mr. N—, an officer in the same +regiment. After hearing what he had to say, and thinking I could serve +him, I consented. It was agreed by Captain F—, R.N., of Pitmore, Mr. +N—'s second, that the duel should take place in the Bois de Boulogne. +After an exchange of shots, Captain F. and myself put an end to the +duel. The cause of the quarrel was that Mr. N—, now Lord G—, +proclaimed in the presence of Captain H— and other officers, that a +lady, the wife of a brother officer, was "what she ought not to be." +When the report reached the ear of the Colonel, H. R. H. the Duke of +York requested Mr. N— to leave the regiment, or be brought to a +court-martial; and then the duel took place, happily without bloodshed. +Both of the officers, it need scarcely be stated, behaved with courage +and coolness. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="pistol"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PISTOL SHOOTING +</H3> + +<P> +From 1820 to 1830 pistol shooting was not much practised. One evening, +in the Salon des Etrangers, I was introduced to General F—, a very +great duellist, and the terror of every regiment he commanded; he was +considered by Napoleon to be one of his best cavalry officers, but was +never in favour, in consequence of his duelling propensities. It was +currently reported that F—, in a duel with a very young officer lost +his toss, and his antagonist fired first at him; when, finding he had +not been touched, he deliberately walked close up to the young man, +saying, "Je plains ta mere," and shot him dead. But there were some +doubts of the truth of this story; and I trust, for the honour of +humanity, that it was either an invention or a gross exaggeration. +</P> + +<P> +The night I was introduced to F—, I was told to be on my guard, as he +was a dangerous character. He was very fond of practising with +pistols, and I frequently met him at Lapage's, the only place at that +time where gentlemen used to shoot. F—, in the year 1822, was very +corpulent, and wore an enormous cravat, in order, it was said, to hide +two scars received in battle. He was a very slow shot. +</P> + +<P> +The famous Junot, Governor-General of Paris, whom I never saw, was +considered to be the best shot in France. My quick shooting surprised +the habitues at Lapage's, where we fired at a spot chalked on the +figure of a Cossack painted on a board, and by word of command, +"One—two—three." F—, upon my firing and hitting the mark forty +times in succession, at the distance of twenty paces, shrieked out, +"Tonnerre de Dieu, c'est magnifique!" We were ever afterwards on good +terms, and supped frequently together at the Salon. At Manton's, on +one occasion, I hit the wafer nineteen times out of twenty. When my +battalion was on duty at the Tower in 1819, it happened to be very +cold, and much snow covered the parade and trees. For our amusement it +was proposed to shoot at the sparrows in the trees from Lady Jane +Grey's room; and it fell to my lot to bag eleven, without missing one: +this, I may say, without flattering myself, was considered the best +pistol-shooting ever heard of. +</P> + +<P> +Manton assigned as the reason why pistols had become the usual arms for +duels, the story (now universally laughed at) of Sheridan and Captain +Matthews fighting with swords on the ground, and mangling each other in +a frightful way. These combatants narrated their own story; but its +enormous exaggeration has been proved even on Sheridan's own evidence, +and the blood that poured from him seems merely to have been the +excellent claret of the previous night's debauch. The number of wounds +said to have been inflicted on each other was something so incredible +that nothing but the solemn asseverations of the parties could have +gained belief; and in those days Sheridan had not obtained that +reputation for rodomontade which he afterwards enjoyed by universal +consent. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="faubourg"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE FAUBOURG ST. GERMAIN +</H3> + +<P> +The distinguishing characteristics of the residents of the "noble +Faubourg," as it was called at the time I am speaking of, were +indomitable pride and exclusiveness, with a narrow-minded ignorance of +all beyond the circle in which its members moved. In our day of +comparative equality and general civility, no one who has not arrived +at my age, and lived in Paris, can form any idea of the insolence and +hauteur of the higher classes of society in 1815. The glance of +unutterable disdain which the painted old duchesse of the Restoration +cast upon the youthful belles of the Chausse d'Antin, or the handsome +widows of Napoleon's army of heroes, defies description. Although often +responded to by a sarcastic sneer at the antediluvian charms of the +emigree, yet the look of contempt and disgust often sank deep into the +victim's heart, leaving there germs which showed themselves fifteen +years later in the revolution of 1830. In those days, this privileged +class was surrounded by a charmed circle, which no one could by any +means break through. Neither personal attractions nor mental +qualifications formed a passport into that exclusive society; to enter +which the small nobility of the provinces, or the nouveau riche, sighed +in vain. It would have been easier for a young Guardsman to make his +way into the Convent des Oiseaux—the fashionable convent in +Paris—than for any of these parvenus to force an entrance into the +Faubourg St. Germain. +</P> + +<P> +One of the first acts which followed the Restoration of the Bourbons +was the grant of a pecuniary indemnity, amounting to a milliard, or +forty millions sterling, to be distributed amongst the emigres who had +lost fortunes or estates by their devotion to the royal family. They +had now, therefore, the means of receiving their friends, political +partisans, and foreigners, with more than usual splendour; and it must +be admitted that those who were thought worthy to be received were +treated like spoiled children, and petted and flattered to their +heart's content. In their own houses they were really des grands +seigneurs, and quite incapable of treating their invited guests with +the insolence that became the fashion among the Jewish parvenus during +the reign of the "citizen king." It is one thing to disdain those whom +one does not think worthy of our acquaintance, and another to insult +those whom one has thought proper to invite. +</P> + +<P> +In their own houses, the inhabitants of the Faubourg St. Germain were +scrupulously polite: even if some enterprising foreigner should have +got in surreptitiously, as long as he was under his host's roof he was +treated with perfect courtesy; though ignominiously "cut" for the +remainder of his days. All this was not very amiable; but the +inhabitants of the "noble Faubourg" were never distinguished for their +amiability. Their best characteristics were the undaunted courage with +which they met death upon the scaffold, and the cheerfulness and +resignation with which they ate the bitter bread of exile. In general, +les grandes dames were not remarkable for their personal attractions, +nor for the elegance of their appearance or dress. The galaxy of +handsome women that formed the court of the Emperor had perhaps sent +beauty somewhat out of fashion; for the high-born ladies who took their +place were what we should call dowdy, and had nothing distinguished in +their appearance. Many of those who belonged to the most ancient +families were almost vulgar in outward form and feature: their manner +had a peculiar off-hand, easy style; and they particularly excelled in +setting down any unlucky person who had happened to offend them. Their +main object, at this time, was to stand well at court, therefore they +adapted themselves to circumstances, and could be devout with the +Dauphine and sceptical with Louis the Eighteenth. +</P> + +<P> +The men of the aristocracy of the Revolution were less clever and +satirical than the women; but, on the other hand, they had far more of +the distinguished bearing and graceful urbanity of the grands seigneurs +of the olden time. The emigre nobles would have gazed with unutterable +horror at their degenerate descendants of the present day; but these +young, booted, bearded, cigar-smoking scions of la jeune France would +have run round their courteous, but, perhaps, rather slow ancestors, in +all the details of daily life. +</P> + +<P> +The principal houses of reception in those days were those of the +Montmorencys, the Richelieus, Birons, Rohans, Goutaut Talleyrands, +Beauffremonts, Luxemburgs, Crillons, Choiseuls, Chabots, Fitzjames, +Grammonts, Latours de Pin, Coislins, and Maillys. Most of these +mansions are now occupied as public offices, or Jesuitical schools, or +by foreign Ministers. Those who are now supposed to be the great people +of the Faubourg St. Germain are nothing more than actors, who put on a +motley dress and appear before the public with the view of attracting +that attention to which they are not entitled; it is, therefore, an +error to suppose that the modern faubourg is anything like what it was +during the days of the Bourbons. At the present moment the only +practical aid the inhabitants of this locality can accord to the +legitimist cause in Europe, is by getting up subscriptions for the +Papacy, and such exiled Sovereigns as Francis II.; and, in order to do +so, they generally address themselves to married women and widows: in +fact, it is from the purses of susceptible females, many of whom are +English, that donations are obtained for legitimacy and Popery in +distress. +</P> + +<P> +It is to be regretted that the most renowned and ancient families of +France have, in society and politics, yielded their places to another +class. That refinement of perception, sensitiveness, and gentle +bearing, which take three or four generations to produce, are no longer +the characteristics of Parisian society. The gilded saloons of the +Tuileries, and those magnificent hotels whose architects have not been +geniuses of art, but the children of Mammon, are occupied by the Jew +speculator, the political parasite, the clever schemer, and those +who—whilst following the fortune of the great man who rules +France—are nothing better than harpies. Most of these pretended +devotees of imperialism have, speaking figuratively, their portmanteaus +perpetually packed, ready for flight. The Emperor's good nature, as +regards his entourage, has never allowed him to get rid of men who, +perhaps, ought not to be seen so near the Imperial throne of France. +The weakest feature of Napoleon III.'s Government is the conspicuous +presence of a few persons in high places, whose cupidity is so +extravagant that, in order to gratify their lust of wealth, they would +not hesitate, indirectly at least, to risk a slur on the reputation of +their master and benefactor, in order to gain their own ends. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="salon"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE SALON DES ETRANGERS IN PARIS +</H3> + +<P> +When the allies entered Paris, after the Battle of Waterloo, the +English gentlemen sought, instinctively, something like a club. Paris, +however, possessed nothing of the sort; but there was a much more +dangerous establishment than the London clubs, namely, a rendezvous for +confirmed gamblers. The Salon des Etrangers was most gorgeously +furnished, provided with an excellent kitchen and wines, and was +conducted by the celebrated Marquis de Livry, who received the guests +and did the honours with a courtesy which made him famous throughout +Europe. The Marquis presented an extraordinary likeness to the Prince +Regent of England, who actually sent Lord Fife over to Paris to +ascertain this momentous fact. The play which took place in these +saloons was frequently of the most reckless character; large fortunes +were often lost, the losers disappearing, never more to be heard of. +Amongst the English habitues were the Hon. George T—, the late Henry +Baring, Lord Thanet, Tom Sowerby, Cuthbert, Mr. Steer, Henry Broadwood, +and Bob Arnold. +</P> + +<P> +The Hon. George T—, who used to arrive from London with a very +considerable letter of credit expressly to try his luck at the Salon +des Etrangers, at length contrived to lose his last shilling at rouge +et noir. When he had lost everything he possessed in the world, he got +up and exclaimed, in an excited manner, "If I had Canova's Venus and +Adonis from Alton Towers, my uncle's country seat, it should be placed +on the rouge, for black has won fourteen times running!" +</P> + +<P> +The late Henry Baring was more fortunate at hazard than his countryman, +but his love of gambling was the cause of his being excluded from the +banking establishment. Col. Sowerby, of the Guards, was one of the +most inveterate players in Paris; and, as is frequently the case with a +fair player, a considerable loser. But, perhaps, the most incurable +gamester amongst the English was Lord Thanet, whose income was not less +than 50,000£. a year, every farthing of which he lost at play. +Cuthbert dissipated the whole of his fortune in like manner. In fact, +I do not remember any instance where those who spent their time in this +den did not lose all they possessed. +</P> + +<P> +The Marquis de L— had a charming villa at Romainville, near Paris, to +which, on Sundays, he invited not only those gentlemen who were the +most prodigal patrons of his salon, but a number of ladies, who were +dancers and singers conspicuous at the opera; forming a society of the +strangest character, the male portion of which were bent on losing +their money, whilst the ladies were determined to get rid of whatever +virtue they might still have left. The dinners on these occasions were +supplied by the chef of the Salon des Etrangers, and were such as few +renommes of the kitchens of France could place upon the table. +</P> + +<P> +Amongst the constant guests was Lord Fife, the intimate friend of +George IV., with Mdlle. Noblet, a danseuse, who gave so much +satisfaction to the habitues of the pit at the opera, both in Paris and +London. His lordship spent a fortune upon her; his presents in jewels, +furniture, articles of dress, and money, exceeded 40,000£. In return +for all this generosity, Lord Fife asked nothing more than the lady's +flattery and professions of affection. +</P> + +<P> +Hall Standish was always to be seen in this circle; and his own hotel +in the Rue le Pelletier was often lighted up, and fetes given to the +theatrical and demi-monde. Standish died in Spain, leaving his gallery +of pictures to Louis Philippe. +</P> + +<P> +Amonst others who visited the Salon des Etrangers were Sir Francis +Vincent, Gooch, Green, Ball Hughes, and many others whose names I no +longer remember. Of foreigners the most conspicuous were Blucher, +General Ormano, father-in-law of Count Walewski, Pacto, and Clari, as +well as most of the ambassadors at the court of the Tuileries. As at +Crockford's, a magnificent supper was provided every night for all who +thought proper to avail themselves of it. The games principally played +were rouge et noir and hazard; the former producing an immense profit, +for not only were the whole of the expenses of this costly +establishment defrayed by the winnings of the bank, but a very large +sum was paid annually to the municipality of Paris. I recollect a +young Irishman, Mr. Gough, losing a large fortune at this tapis vert. +After returning home about two A.M., he sat down and wrote a letter, +giving reasons as to why he was about to commit suicide: these, it is +needless to say, were simply his gambling reverses. A pistol shot +through the brain terminated his existence. Sir Francis Vincent—a man +of old family and considerable fortune—was another victim of this +French hell, who contrived to get rid of his magnificent property, and +then disappeared from society. +</P> + +<P> +In calling up my recollections of the Salon des Etrangers, some forty +years since, I see before me the noble form and face of the Hungarian +Count Hunyady, the chief gambler of the day, who created considerable +sensation in his time. He became tres a la mode: his horses, carriage, +and house were considered perfect, while his good looks were the theme +of universal admiration. There were ladies' cloaks "a la Huniade," +whilst the illustrious Borel, of the Rocher de Cancaile, named new +dishes after the famous Hungarian. Hunyady's luck for a long time was +prodigious: no bank could resist his attacks; and at one time he must +have been a winner of nearly two millions of francs. His manners were +particularly calm and gentlemanlike; he sat apparently unmoved, with +his right hand in the breast of his coat, whilst thousands depended +upon the turning of a card or the hazard of a die. His valet, however, +confided to some indiscreet friend that his nerves were not of such +iron temper as he would have made people believe, and that the count +bore in the morning the bloody marks of his nails, which he had pressed +into his chest in the agony of an unsuccessful turn of fortune. The +streets of Paris were at that time not very safe; consequently the +Count was usually attended to his residence by two gensdarmes, in order +to prevent his being attacked by robbers. Hunyady was not wise enough +(what gamblers are?) to leave Paris with his large winnings, but +continued as usual to play day and night. A run of bad luck set in +against him, and he lost not only the whole of the money he had won, +but a very large portion of his own fortune. He actually borrowed 50£. +of the well-known Tommy Garth—who was himself generally more in the +borrowing than the lending line—to take him back to Hungary. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="deberri"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE DUCHESS DE BERRI AT MASS AT THE CHAPELLE ROYALE +</H3> + +<P> +I had the honour of being invited to an evening party at the Tuileries +in the winter of 1816, and was in conversation with the Countess de +l'Espinasse, when the Duchess did me the honour to ask me if I intended +going to St. Germain to hunt. I replied in the negative, not having +received an invitation; upon which the Duchess graciously observed that +if I would attend mass the following morning in the Royal Chapel, she +would manage it. Accordingly I presented myself there dressed in a +black coat and trousers and white neckcloth; but at the entrance, a +huge Swiss told me I could not enter the chapel without knee-buckles. +At that moment Alexandre Gerardin, the grand veneur, came to my +assistance; he spoke to the Duchess, who immediately gave instructions +that Mr. Gronow was to be admitted "sans culottes." The card for the +hunt came; but the time to get the uniform was so short, that I was +prevented going to St. Germain. At that time the fascinating Duchess +de Berri was the theme of admiration of everyone. All who could obtain +admission to the chapelle were charmed with the grace with which, on +passing through the happy group who had been fortunate enough to gain +the privilege, she cast her glance of recognition upon those who were +honoured with her notice. When again I had the honour of being in the +presence of the Duchess, she inquired whether the hunt amused me; and +upon my telling her that I had been unable to go, in consequence of the +want of the required uniform, the Duchess archly remarked "Ah! M. le +Capitaine, parceque vous n'avez pas jamais des culottes." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="westmoreland"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LORD WESTMORELAND +</H3> + +<P> +When I was presented at the Court of Louis XVIII., Lord Westmoreland, +the grandfather of the present lord, accompanied Sir Charles Stewart to +the Tuileries. On our arrival in the room where the King was, we formed +ourselves into a circle, when the King good-naturedly inquired after +Lady Westmoreland, from whom his lordship was divorced, and whether she +was in Paris. Upon this, the noble lord looked sullen, and refused to +reply to the question put by the King. His Majesty, however, repeated +it, when Lord Westmoreland hallooed out, in bad French, "Je ne sais +pas, je ne sais pas, je ne sais pas." Louis, rising, said, "Assez, +milord; assez, milord." +</P> + +<P> +On one occasion, Lord Westmoreland, who was Lord Privy Seal, being +asked what office he held, replied, "Le Chancelier est le grand sceau +(Sot); moi je suis le petit sceau d' Angleterre." On another occasion, +he wished to say "I would if I could, but I can't," and rendered it, +"Je voudrais si je coudrais, mais je ne cannais pas." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="alderman"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +ALDERMAN WOOD +</H3> + +<P> +Among the many English who then visited Paris was Alderman Wood, who +had previously filled the office of Lord Mayor of London. He ordered a +hundred visiting cards, inscribing upon them, "Alderman Wood, feu Lord +Maire de Londres," which he had largely distributed amongst people of +rank—having translated the word "late" into "feu," which I need hardly +state means "dead." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="opera"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE OPERA +</H3> + +<P> +A few years after the restoration of the Bourbons, the opera was the +grand resort of all the fashionable world. Sostennes de la +Rochefoucauld was Minister of the Household, and his office placed him +at the head of all the theatres. M. de la Rochefoucauld was +exceedingly polite to our countrymen, and gave permission to most of +our dandies to go behind the scenes, where Bigottini, Fanny Bias, +Vestris, Anatole, Paul, Albert, and the other principal dancers, +congregated. One of our countrymen, having been introduced by M. de la +Rochefoucauld to Mademoiselle Bigottini, the beautiful and graceful +dancer, in the course of conversation with this gentleman, asked him in +what part of the theatre he was placed; upon which he replied, +"Mademoiselle, dans un loge rotie," instead of "grillee." The lady +could not understand what he meant, until his introducer explained the +mistake, observing, "Les diables des Anglais pensent toujours a leur +Rosbif." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="elssler"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +FANNY ELSSLER +</H3> + +<P> +In 1822 I saw this beautiful person for the first time. She was +originally one of the figurantes at the opera at Vienna, and was at +this time about fourteen years of age, and of delicate and graceful +proportions. Her hair was auburn, her eyes blue and large, and her +face wore an expression of great tenderness. Some years after the Duke +of Reichstadt, the son of the great Napoleon, was captivated with her +beauty; in a word, he became her acknowledged admirer, while her +marvellous acting and dancing drew around her all the great men of the +German court. The year following she went to Naples, where a brother +of the King fell desperately in love with her. Mademoiselle Elssler +went soon afterwards to Paris, where her wit electrified all the +fashionable world, and her dancing and acting in the Diable Boiteux +made the fortune of the entrepreneur. In London her success was not so +striking; but her cachucha will long be remembered, as one of the most +exquisite exhibitions of female grace and power ever seen at her +Majesty's Theatre, and in expressiveness, her pantomimic powers were +unrivalled. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="charles"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHARLES X. AND LOUIS PHILIPPE +</H3> + +<P> +When the father of the present ex-King of Naples came to Paris during +the reign of Charles X., Louis Philippe, then Duke of Orleans, living +at the Palais Royal, gave a very grand fete to his royal cousin. I had +the honour to be one of the party invited, and witnessed an +extraordinary scene, which I think worth relating. About eleven +o'clock, when the rooms were crowded, Charles X. arrived, with a +numerous suite. On entering, he let fall his pocket-handkerchief—it +was then supposed by accident; upon this, Louis Philippe fell upon one +knee and presented the handkerchief to his Sovereign; who smiled and +said, "Merci, mon cher; merci." This incident was commented upon for +many days, and several persons said that the handkerchief was purposely +thrown down to see whether Louis Philippe would pick it up. +</P> + +<P> +At that period, the Orleans family were en mauvais odeur at the +Tuileries, and consequently, this little incident created considerable +gossip among the courtly quidnuncs. I remember that when Lord William +Bentinck was asked what he thought of the circumstance, he +good-naturedly answered, "The King most probably wanted to know how the +wind blew." +</P> + +<P> +It was known that a large number of persons hostile to the court were +invited; and among these were Casimir Perier, the Dupins, Lafitte, +Benjamin Constant, and a host of others who a few years afterwards +drove out the eldest branch that occupied the throne to make way for +Louis Philippe. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="thanet"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LORD THANET +</H3> + +<P> +The late Lord Thanet, celebrated for having been imprisoned in the +Tower for his supposed predilection for republicanism, passed much of +his time in Paris, particularly at the Salon des Etrangers. His +lordship's infatuation for play was such, that when the gambling-tables +were closed, he invited those who remained to play at chicken-hazard +and ecarte; the consequence was that, one night, he left off a loser of +120,000£. When told of his folly and the probability of his having been +cheated, he exclaimed, "Then I consider myself lucky in not having lost +twice that sum!" +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="granville"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LORD GRANVILLE, THE BRITISH AMBASSADOR +</H3> + +<P> +Soon after Lord Granville's appointment, a strange occurrence took +place at one of the public gambling-houses. A colonel, on half-pay, in +the British service, having lost every farthing that he possessed, +determined to destroy himself, together with all those who were +instrumental in his ruin. Accordingly, he placed a canister full of +fulminating powder under the table, and set it on fire: it blew up, but +fortunately no one was hurt. The police arrested the colonel, and +placed him in prison; he was, however, through the humane interposition +of our ambassador, sent out of France as a madman. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="blucher"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +MARSHAL BLUCHER +</H3> + +<P> +Marshal Blucher, though a very fine fellow, was a very rough diamond, +with the manners of a common soldier. On his arrival in Paris, he went +every day to the salon, and played the highest stakes at rouge et noir. +The salon, during the time that the marshal remained in Paris, was +crowded by persons who came to see him play. His manner of playing was +anything but gentlemanlike, and when he lost, he used to swear in +German at everything that was French, looking daggers at the croupiers. +He generally managed to lose all he had about him, also all the money +his servant, who was waiting in the ante-chamber, carried. I recollect +looking attentively at the manner in which he played; he would put his +right hand into his pocket, and bring out several rouleaus of +Napoleons, and throw them on the red or black. If he won the first +coup, he would allow it to remain; but when the croupier stated that +the table was not responsible for more than ten thousand francs, then +Blucher would roar like a lion, and rap out oaths in his native +language, which would doubtless have met with great success at +Billingsgate, if duly translated: fortunately, they were not heeded, as +they were not understood by the lookers-on. +</P> + +<P> +At that period there were rumours—and reliable ones, too—that Blucher +and the Duke of Wellington were at loggerheads. The Prussians wanted +to blow up the Bridge of Jena; but the Duke sent a battalion of our +regiment to prevent it, and the Prussian engineers who were mining the +bridge were civilly sent away: this circumstance created some ill-will +between the chiefs. +</P> + +<P> +A sort of congress of the Emperors of Austria and Russia and the King +of Prussia, with Blucher and Wellington, met at the Hotel of Foreign +Affairs, on the Boulevard, when, after much ado, the Duke of Wellington +emphatically declared that if any of the monuments were destroyed he +would take the British army from Paris: this threat had the desired +effect. Nevertheless, Blucher levied contributions on the poor +Parisians, and his army was newly clothed. The Bank of France was +called upon to furnish him with several thousand pounds, which, it was +said, were to reimburse him for the money lost at play. This, with +many other instances of extortion and tyranny, was the cause of +Blucher's removal, and he took his departure by order of the King. +</P> + +<P> +I once saw a regiment of Prussians march down the Rue St. Honore when a +line of half-a-dozen hackney-coachmen were quietly endeavouring to make +their way in a contrary direction; suddenly some of the Prussian +soldiers left their ranks, and with the butt-end of their muskets +knocked the poor coachmen off their seats. I was in uniform, and felt +naturally ashamed at what I had seen: some Frenchmen came up to me and +requested me to report what I had witnessed to the Duke of Wellington; +but, upon my telling them it would be of no avail, they one and all +said the English ought to blush at having allies and friends capable of +such wanton brutality. +</P> + +<P> +The fact is that the French had behaved so ill at Berlin, after the +Battle of Jena, in 1806, that the Prussians had sworn to be revenged, +if ever they had the opportunity to visit upon France the cruelties, +the extortion, insults, and hard usage their own capital had suffered; +and they kept their word. +</P> + +<P> +One afternoon, when upwards of a hundred Prussian officers entered the +galleries of the Palais Royal, they visited all the shops in turn, +insulting the women and striking the men, breaking the windows and +turning everything upside down: nothing, indeed, could have been more +outrageous than their conduct. When information was brought to Lord +James Hay of what was going on, he went out, and arrived just as a +troop of French gensdarmes were on the point of charging the Prussians, +then in the garden. He lost no time in calling out his men, and, +placing himself between the gensdarmes and the officers, said he should +fire upon the first who moved. The Prussians then came to him and said, +"We had all vowed to return upon the heads of the French in Paris the +insults that they had heaped upon our countrymen in Berlin; we have +kept our vow, and we will now retire." Nothing could equal the bitter +hatred which existed, and still exists, between the French and the +Prussians. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="jew"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +JEW MONEY-LENDERS +</H3> + +<P> +One of the features of high society after the long war was a passion +for gambling; so universal was it that there are few families of +distinction who do not even to the present day retain unpleasant +reminiscences of the period. When people become systematic players, +they are often obliged to raise money at an exorbitant interest, and +usually under such circumstances fly to the Israelites. I have often +heard players wish these people in almost every uncomfortable quarter +of the known and unknown worlds. The mildness and civility with which +the Christian in difficulties always addresses the moneyed Israelite, +contrast forcibly with the opprobrious epithets lavished on him when +the day for settlement comes. When a man requires money to pay his +debts of honour, and borrows from the Jews, he knows perfectly well +what he is doing; though one of the last things which foolish people +learn is how to trace their own errors to their proper source. Hebrew +money-lenders could not thrive if there were no borrowers: the gambler +brings about his own ruin. The characteristics of the Jew are never +more perceptible than when they come in contact with gentlemen to ruin +them. On such occasions, the Jew is humble, supercilious, blunderingly +flattering; and if he can become the agent of any dirty work, is only +too happy to be so, in preference to a straightforward and honest +transaction. No man is more vulgarly insulting to those dependent upon +him than the Jew, who invariably cringes to his superiors; above all, +he is not a brave man. It will be seen, from these observations, what +is my opinion of a class of traders who in all parts of the world are +sure to embrace what may be termed illicit and illegitimate commerce. +At the same time, I suspect that the Jew simply avails himself of the +weakness and vices of mankind, and will continue in this line of +business so long as imprudent and extravagant humanity remains what it +is. +</P> + +<P> +Two usurers, who obtained much notoriety from the high game which was +brought to them, were men known by the names of Jew King and Solomon. +These were of very different characters: King was a man of some talent, +and had good taste in the fine arts. He had made the peerage a +complete study, knew the exact position of everyone who was connected +with a coronet, the value of their property, how deeply the estates +were mortgaged, and what encumbrances weighed upon them. Nor did his +knowledge stop there: by dint of sundry kind attentions to the clerks +of the leading banking-houses, he was aware of the balances they kept; +and the credit attached to their names; so that, to the surprise of the +borrower, he let him into the secrets of his own actual position. He +gave excellent dinners, at which many of the highest personages of the +realm were present; and when they fancied that they were about to meet +individuals whom it would be upon their conscience to recognize +elsewhere, were not a little amused to find clients quite as highly +placed as themselves, and with purses quite as empty. King had a +well-appointed house in Clarges Street; but it was in a villa upon the +banks of the Thames, which had been beautifully fitted up by Walsh +Porter in the Oriental style, and which I believe is now the seat of +one of the most favoured votaries of the Muses, Sir Edward Bulwer +Lytton, that his hospitalities were most lavishly and luxuriously +exercised. Here it was that Sheridan told his host that he liked his +table better than his multiplication table; to which his host, who was +not only witty, but often the cause of wit in others, replied, "I know, +Mr. Sheridan: your taste is more for Jo-king than for Jew King," +alluding to King, the actor's admirable performance in Sheridan's +School for Scandal. +</P> + +<P> +King kept a princely establishment, and a splendid equipage which he +made to serve as an advertisement of his calling. A yellow carriage, +with panels emblazoned with a well-executed shield and armorial +bearings, and drawn by two richly-caparisoned steeds, the Jehu on the +box wearing, according to the fashion of those days, a coat of many +capes, a powdered wig, and gloves a l'Henri Quatre, and two spruce +footmen in striking but not gaudy livery, with long canes in their +hands, daily made its appearance in the Park from four to seven in the +height of the season. Mrs. King was a fine-looking woman, and being +dressed in the height of fashion, she attracted innumerable gazers, who +pronounced the whole turn-out to be a work of refined taste, and worthy +a man of "so much principal and interest." +</P> + +<P> +It happened that during one of these drives, Lord William L., a man of +fashion, but, like other of the great men of the day, an issuer of +paper money discounted at high rates by the usurers, was thrown off his +horse. Mr. and Mrs. King immediately quitted the carriage and placed +the noble lord within. On this circumstance being mentioned in the +clubs, Brummell observed it was only "a Bill Jewly (duly) taken up and +honoured." +</P> + +<P> +Solomon indulged in many aliases, being known by the names of +Goldsched, Slowman, as well as by other noms de guerre; and he was +altogether of a different cast from King, being avaricious, +distrustful, and difficult to deal with. He counted upon his gains +with all the grasping feverishness of the miser; and owing to his great +caution he had an immense command of money, which the confidence of his +brethren placed in his hands. To the jewellers, the coachmakers, and +the tailors, who were obliged to give exorbitant accommodation to their +aristocratic customers, and were eventually paid in bills of an +incredibly long date, Solomon was of inestimable use. Hamlet, +Houlditch, and other dependants upon the nobility, were often compelled +to seek his assistance. +</P> + +<P> +Hamlet, the jeweller, was once looked up to as the richest tradesman at +the West End. His shop at the corner of Cranbourne Alley exhibited a +profuse display of gold and silver plate, whilst in the jewel room +sparkled diamonds, amethysts, rubies, and other precious stones, in +every variety of setting. He was constantly called on to advance money +upon such objects, which were left in pawn only to be taken out on the +occasion of a great banquet, or when a court dress was to be worn. His +gains were enormous, though it was necessary to give long credit; and +his bills for twenty or thirty thousand pounds were eagerly discounted. +In fact, he was looked upon as a second Croesus, or a Crassus, who +could have bought the Roman empire; and his daughter's hand was sought +in marriage by peers. But all at once the mighty bubble collapsed. He +had advanced money to the Duke of York, and had received as security +property in Nova Scotia, consisting chiefly of mines, which, when he +began to work them, turned out valueless, after entailing enormous +expense. Loss upon loss succeeded, and in the end bankruptcy. I have +even heard that this man, once so envied for his wealth, died the +inmate of an almshouse. +</P> + +<P> +Some persons of rank, tempted by the offers of these usurers, lent +their money to them at a very high interest. A lady of some position +lent a thousand pounds to King, on the promise of receiving annually 15 +per cent.; which he continued to pay with the utmost regularity. Her +son being in want of money applied for a loan of a thousand pounds, +which King granted at the rate of 80 per cent.; lending him of course +his mother's money. In a moment of tenderness the young man told his +tale to her, when she immediately went to King and upbraided him for +not making her a party to his gains, and demanded her money back. King +refused to return it, saying that he had never engaged to return the +principal; and dared her to take any proceedings against him, as, being +a married woman, she had no power over the money. She, however, +acknowledged it to her husband, obtained his forgiveness, and after +threats of legal interference, King was compelled to refund the money, +besides losing much of his credit and popularity by the transaction. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="alvanley"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LORD ALVANLEY +</H3> + +<P> +To Lord Alvanley was awarded the reputation, good or bad, of all the +witticisms in the clubs after the abdication of the throne of dandyism +by Brummell; who, before that time, was always quoted as the sayer of +good things, as Sheridan had been some time before. Lord Alvanley had +the talk of the day completely under his control, and was the arbiter +of the school for scandal in St. James's. A bon mot attributed to him +gave rise to the belief that Solomon caused the downfall and +disappearance of Brummell; for on some friends of the prince of dandies +observing that if he had remained in London something might have been +done for him by his old associates, Alvanley replied, "He has done +quite right to be off: it was Solomon's judgment." +</P> + +<P> +When Sir Lumley Skeffington, who had been a lion in his day—and whose +spectacle, the Sleeping Beauty, produced at a great expense on the +stage, had made him looked up to as deserving all the blandishments of +fashionable life—re-appeared some years after his complete downfall +and seclusion in the bench, he fancied that by a very gay external +appearance he would recover his lost position; but he found his old +friends very shy of him. Alvanley being asked, on one occasion, who +that smart-looking individual was, answered, "It is a second edition of +the Sleeping Beauty bound in calf, richly gilt, and illustrated by many +cuts." +</P> + +<P> +One of the gay men of the day, named Judge, being incarcerated in the +Bench, some one observed he believed it was the first instance of a +Judge reaching the bench without being previously called to the bar; to +which Alvanley replied, "Many a bad judge has been taken from the bench +and placed at the bar." He used to say that Brummell was the only +Dandelion that flourished year after year in the hot-bed of the +fashionable world: he had taken root. Lions were generally annual, but +Brummell was perennial, and quoted a letter from Walter Scott: "If you +are celebrated for writing verses, or for slicing cucumbers, for being +two feet taller, or two feet less, than any other biped, for acting +plays when you should be whipped at school, or for attending schools +and institutions when you should be preparing for your grave, your +notoriety becomes a talisman, an 'open sesame,' which gives way to +everything, till you are voted a bore, and discarded for a new +plaything." This appeared in a letter from Walter Scott to the Earl of +Dalkeith, when he himself, Belzoni, Master Betty the Roscius, and old +Joseph Lancaster, the schoolmaster, were the lions of the season, and +were one night brought together by my indefatigable old friend, Lady +Cork, who was "the Lady of Lyons" of that day. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="palmer"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +GENERAL PALMER +</H3> + +<P> +This excellent man had the last days of his life embittered by the +money-lenders. He had commenced his career surrounded by every +circumstance that could render existence agreeable; fortune, in his +early days, having smiled most benignantly on him. His father was a +man of considerable ability, and was to the past generation what +Rowland Hill is in the present day—the great benefactor of +correspondents. He first proposed and carried out the mail-coach +system; and letters, instead of being at the mercy of postboys, and a +private speculation in many instances, became the care of Government, +and were transmitted under its immediate direction. +</P> + +<P> +During the lifetime of Mr. Palmer, the reward due to him for his +suggestions and his practical knowledge was denied; and he accordingly +went to Bath, and became the manager and proprietor of the theatre, +occasionally treading the boards himself, for which his elegant +deportment and good taste eminently qualified him. He has often been +mistaken for Gentleman Palmer, whose portrait is well drawn in the +Memoir of Sheridan by Dr. Sigmond, prefixed to Bohn's edition of +Sheridan's plays. Mr. Palmer was successful in his undertaking, and at +his death, his son found himself the inheritor of a handsome fortune, +and became a universal favourite in Bath. +</P> + +<P> +The corporation of that city, consisting of thirty apothecaries, were, +in those borough-mongering days, the sole electors to the House of +Commons, and finding young Palmer hospitable, and intimate with the +Marquis of Bath and Lord Camden, and likewise desiring for themselves +and their families free access to the most agreeable theatre in +England, returned him to Parliament. He entered the army and became a +conspicuous officer in the 10th Hussars, which, being commanded by the +Prince Regent, led him at once into Carlton House, the Pavilion at +Brighton, and consequently into the highest society of the country; for +which his agreeable manners, his amiable disposition, and his +attainments, admirably qualified him. His fortune was sufficiently +large for all his wants; but, unfortunately, as it turned out, the +House of Commons voted to him, as the representative of his father, +100,000£., which he was desirous of laying out to advantage. +</P> + +<P> +A fine opportunity, as he imagined, had presented itself to him; for, +in travelling in the diligence from Lyons to Paris, a journey then +requiring three days, he met a charming widow, who told a tale that had +not only a wonderful effect upon his susceptible heart, but upon his +amply-filled purse. She said her husband, who had been the proprietor +of one of the finest estates in the neighbourhood of Bordeaux, was just +dead, and that she was on her way to Paris to sell the property, that +it might be divided, according to the laws of France, amongst the +family. Owing, however, to the absolute necessity of forcing a sale, +that which was worth an enormous sum would realize one-quarter only of +its value. She described the property as one admirably fitted for the +production of wine; that it was, in fact, the next estate to the +Chateau Lafitte, and would prove a fortune to any capitalist. The +fascinations of this lady, and the temptation of enormous gain to the +speculator, impelled the gallant colonel to offer his services to +relieve her from her embarrassment; and by the time the diligence +arrived in Paris, he had become the proprietor of a fine domain, which +was soon irrevocably fixed on him by the lady's notary, in return for a +large sum of money: which, had the colonel proved a man of business, +would no doubt have been amply repaid, and might have become the source +of great wealth. +</P> + +<P> +Palmer, however, conscious of his inability, looked around him for an +active agent, and believed he had found one in a Mr. Gray, a man of +captivating manners and good connexions, but almost as useless a person +as the General himself. Fully confident in his own abilities, Gray had +already been concerned in many speculations, not one of which had ever +succeeded, but all had led to the demolition of large fortunes. +Plausible in his address, and possessing many of those superficial +qualities that please the multitude, he appeared to be able to secure +for the claret—which was the production of the estate—a large +clientele. Palmer's claret, under his auspices, began to be talked of +in the clubs; and the bon vivant was anxious to secure a quantity of +this highly-prized wine. The patronage of the Prince Regent was +considered essential, who, with his egotistical good nature, and from a +kindly feeling for Palmer, gave a dinner at Carlton House, when a fair +trial was to be given to his claret. A select circle of gastronomes +was to be present, amongst whom was Lord Yarmouth, well known in those +days by the appellation of "Red-herrings," from his rubicund whiskers, +hair, and face, and from the town of Yarmouth deriving its principal +support from the importation from Holland of that fish; Sir Benjamin +Bloomfield, Sir William Knighton, and Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, were also of +the party. The wine was produced, and was found excellent, and the +spirits of the party ran high; the light wine animating them without +intoxication. The Prince was delighted, and, as usual upon such +occasions, told some of his best stories, quoted Shakspeare, and was +particularly happy upon the bouquet of the wine as suited "to the holy +Palmer's kiss." +</P> + +<P> +Lord Yarmouth alone sat in moody silence, and, on being questioned as +to the cause, replied that whenever he dined at his Royal Highness's +table, he drank a claret which he much preferred—that which was +furnished by Carbonell. The Prince immediately ordered a bottle of this +wine; and to give them an opportunity of testing the difference, he +desired that some anchovy sandwiches should be served up. Carbonell's +wine was placed upon the table: it was a claret made expressly for the +London market, well-dashed with Hermitage, and infinitely more to the +taste of the Englishman than the delicately-flavoured wine they had +been drinking. The banquet terminated in the Prince declaring his own +wine superior to that of Palmer's, and suggesting that he should try +some experiments on his estate to obtain a better wine. Palmer come +from Carlton House much mortified. On Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt attempting +to console him, and saying that it was the anchovies that had spoiled +the taste of the connoisseurs, the general said loudly enough to be +heard by Lord Yarmouth, "No; it was the confounded red herrings." A +duel was very nearly the consequence. +</P> + +<P> +General Palmer, feeling it his duty to follow the advice of the Prince, +rooted out his old vines, planted new ones, tried all sorts of +experiments at an immense cost, but with little or no result. He and +his agent, in consequence, got themselves into all sorts of +difficulties, mortgaged the property, borrowed largely, and were at +last obliged to have recourse to usurers, to life assurances, and every +sort of expedient to raise money. The theatre at Bath was sold, the +Reform in Parliament robbed him of his seat, and at last he and his +agent became ruined men. A subscription would have been raised to +relieve him, but he preferred ending his days in poverty to living upon +the bounty of his friends. He sold his commission, and was plunged in +the deepest distress; while the accumulation of debt to the usurers +became so heavy, that he was compelled to pass through the Insolvent +Court. Thus ended the career of a man who had been courted in society, +idolized in the army, and figured as a legislator for many years. His +friends, of course, fell off, and he was to be seen a mendicant in the +streets of London—shunned where he once was adored. Gray, his agent, +became equally involved; but, marrying a widow with some money, he was +enabled to make a better fight. Eventually, however, he became a prey +to the money-lender, and his life ended under circumstances distressing +to those who had known him in early days. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="monk"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +"MONK" LEWIS +</H3> + +<P> +One of the most agreeable men of the day was "Monk" Lewis. As the +author of the Monk and the Tales of Wonder, he not only found his way +into the best circles, but had gained a high reputation in the literary +world. His poetic talent was undoubted, and he was intimately connected +with Walter Scott in his ballad researches. His Alonzo the Brave and +the Fair Imogene was recited at the theatres, and wherever he went he +found a welcome reception. His West Indian fortune and connections, +and his seat in Parliament, gave him access to all the aristocratic +circles; from which, however, he was banished upon the appearance of +the fourth and last dialogue of the Pursuits of Literature. Had a +thunderbolt fallen upon him, he could not have been more astonished +than he was by the onslaught of Mr. Matthias, which led to his +ostracism from fashionable society. +</P> + +<P> +It is not for me to appreciate the value of this satirical poem, which +created such an extraordinary sensation, not only in the fashionable, +but in the political world; I, however, remember that whilst at +Canning's, at the Bishop of London's, and at Gifford's, it was +pronounced the most classical and spirited production that had ever +issued from the press, it was held up at Lord Holland's, at the Marquis +of Lansdowne's, and at Brookes's, as one of the most spiteful and +ill-natured satires that had ever disgraced the literary world; and one +which no talent or classic lore could ever redeem. Certain it is, that +Matthias fell foul of poor "Monk" Lewis for his romance: obscenity and +blasphemy were the charges laid at his door; he was acknowledged to be +a man of genius and fancy, but this added only to his crime, to which +was superadded that of being a very young man. The charges brought +against him cooled his friends and heated his enemies; the young ladies +were forbidden to speak to him, matrons even feared him, and from being +one of the idols of the world, he became one of the objects of its +disdain. Even his father was led to believe that his son had abandoned +the paths of virtue, and was on the high road to ruin. +</P> + +<P> +"Monk" Lewis, unable to stand against the outcry thus raised against +him, determined to try the effects of absence, and took his departure +for the island in which his property was; but unfortunately for those +who dissented from the ferocious judgment that was passed upon him, and +for those who had discrimination enough to know that after all there +was nothing very objectionable in his romance, and felt assured that +posterity would do him justice, this amiable and kind-hearted man died +on his passage out; leaving a blank in one variety of literature which +has never been filled up. +</P> + +<P> +The denunciation was not followed by any other severe criticism; but +editors have, in compliance with the insinuations of Matthias, omitted +the passages which he pointed out as objectionable, so that the +original text is seldom met with. +</P> + +<P> +"Monk" Lewis had a black servant, affectionately attached to his +master; but so ridiculously did this servant repeat his master's +expressions, that he became the laughing-stock of all his master's +friends: Brummell used often to raise a hearty laugh at Carlton House +by repeating witticisms which he pretended to have heard from Lewis's +servant. Some of these were very stale; yet they were considered so +good as to be repeated at the clubs, greatly adding to the reputation +of the Beau as a teller of good things. "On one occasion," said +Brummell, "I called to inquire after a young lady who had sprained her +ancle; Lewis, on being asked how she was, had said in the black's +presence, 'The doctor has seen her, put her legs straight, and the poor +chicken is doing well.' The servant, therefore, told me, with a +mysterious and knowing look, 'Oh, sir, the doctor has been here; she +has laid eggs, and she and the chickens are doing well.'" +</P> + +<P> +Such extravagances in those days were received as the essence of wit, +and to such stories did the public give a willing ear, repeating them +with unwearying zest. Even Sheridan's wit partook of this character, +making him the delight of the Prince, who ruled over the fashionable +world, and whose approbation was sufficient to give currency to +anything, however ludicrous and absurd. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="turton"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +SIR THOMAS TURTON +</H3> + +<P> +There is a pleasure in recalling to memory even the school-boy pranks +of men who make a figure in the world. The career of Turton promised +to be a brilliant one; and had he not offended against the moral +feeling of the country, and lost his position, he would have mounted to +the highest step in the ladder of fortune. At Eton he showed himself a +dashing and a daring boy, and was looked upon by Dr. Goodall, the then +head master, as one of his best classical scholars; by his +schoolfellows he was even more highly regarded, being the acknowledged +"cock of the school." Amongst the qualities that endeared him to them +was a fearlessness which led him into dangers and difficulties, from +which his pluck only could extricate him. He was a determined poacher: +not one of the skulking class, but of a daring that led him to exert +his abilities in Windsor Park itself; where he contrived to bag game, +in spite of the watchfulness of the keepers and the surveillance of the +well-paid watchers of the night. On one occasion; however, by some +unlucky chance, tidings of his successes reached the ears of the royal +gamekeeper, who formed a plan by which to entrap him; and so nearly +were they pouncing upon Turton that he was obliged to take to his heels +and fly, carrying with him a hare which he had caught. The keepers +followed close upon his heels until they came to the Thames, into which +Turton plunged, and, still holding his prize by his teeth, swam to the +other side; to the astonishment and dismay of his pursuers, who had no +inclination for a cold bath: their mortification was great at seeing +Turton safely landed on the other side. He reached the college in +safety; and the hare served for the enjoyment of merry friends. +</P> + +<P> +Turton's history in after life I will not pursue; but must express my +regret that he threw away golden opportunities of showing his love for +classic lore, and his ability to meet the difficulties of life, in the +same bold way in which he swam the Thames and baffled the Windsor +gamekeepers. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="smythe"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +GEORGE SMYTHE, THE LATE LORD STRANGFORD +</H3> + +<P> +This is another friend to whom I am pleased to pay the tribute of a +reminiscence, and who, if he was not as well known as most of those I +have spoken of, was yet highly prized by many of the most distinguished +persons, and formed one of a circle that had great influence in +England. Being the son of the well-known Lord Strangford, the +translator of Camoens, he had a first place in aristocratic society, +and had he not given himself up to indulgences and amusements, might +have reached the rank of statesman. The late Lord Strangford was +distinguished by those external qualifications which are everywhere +acceptable; his manners were polished and easy, his conversation +elegant and witty, and these, added to great personal attractions, gave +him a charm which was generally felt. Disraeli, Sir Edward Bulwer +Lytton, and the leading men of the day, were his associates. When Lord +Aberdeen became Minister for Foreign Affairs he selected George Smythe +as under secretary; in which capacity he acquitted himself with great +ability. He could not, however, act under Lord Palmerston, and rather +than do so gave up his position. He did not long survive, but died +very young; just as he was beginning to learn the value of his rare +abilities, and had ascertained how best they might have been of use to +his country. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="talbot"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE HONOURABLE GEORGE TALBOT +</H3> + +<P> +I have a very vivid recollection of George Talbot, a brother of the +late Earl of Shrewsbury, and who was a fashionable man about town, of +whom there are many anecdotes in circulation. The only one that took +my fancy was related to me in Paris, where he was as usual in the midst +of the gayest of the gay, recklessly spending his money, and oftentimes +resorting for resources to the gambling-table, where at last he was +thoroughly pigeoned. +</P> + +<P> +Talbot had tried in vain all the usual means of recruiting his empty +purse. Being a Roman Catholic, like most of the members of one of the +oldest families in Great Britain, he was a regular attendant upon the +ceremonies of his Church, and acquainted with all the clergy in Paris; +so he took the resolution of going to his confessor, unburdening his +conscience, and at the same time seeking counsel from the holy father, +as to the best way of raising the wind. After entering minutely into +his condition, and asking the priest how he could find funds to pay his +debts and take him home, the confessor seemed touched by his tale of +woe, and after much apparent consideration recommended him to trust in +Providence. Talbot seemed struck with such sensible advice, and +promised to call again in a few days. This second visit was made in +due course; he again mourned over his condition, and requested the +priest's advice and assistance. His story was listened to as before, +with much commiseration, but he was again recommended to trust in +Providence. Talbot came away quite crest-fallen, and evidently with +little hope of any immediate relief. After the lapse of a few days, +however, he appeared again before his confessor, apparently much +elated, and invited the worthy abbe to dine with him at the Rocher du +Cancale. This invitation was gladly accepted, the holy father not +doubting but that he should have all the delicacies in the land, to +which, in common with the rest of the clergy, he had no objection; nor +was he disappointed. The dinner was recherche; the best the +establishment could furnish was placed before them, and most heartily +and lovingly did the worthy abbe devote himself to what was offered. +At the end of the repast the carte a payer was duly furnished; but what +was the astonishment of the reverend guest when Talbot declared that +his purse was completely au sec, and that it had been a long time +empty; but that upon this occasion, as upon all others, he trusted, as +the abbe had advised him, in Providence. The Abbe Pecheron, recovering +from his surprise, and being of a kind and generous disposition, +laughed heartily at Talbot's impudence, and feeling that he had +deserved this rebuke pulled out his purse, paid for the dinner, and did +what he should have done at first—wrote to the members of Talbot's +family, and obtained for him such assistance as enabled him to quit +Paris and return home, where he afterwards led a more sober life. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="burges"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +A DINNER AT SIR JAMES BLAND BURGES'S, <BR> +IN LOWER BROOK STREET; AUTUMN, 1815 +</H3> + +<P> +I was once invited to dinner by Sir James Burges, father of my friend, +Captain Burges, of the Guards: it was towards the end of the season +1815. I there met, to my great delight, Lord Byron and Sir Walter +Scott; and amongst the rest of the company were Lord Caledon, and +Croker, the Secretary to the Admiralty. Sir James had been private +secretary to Pitt at the time of the French Revolution, and had a fund +of curious anecdotes about everything and everybody of note at the end +of the last century. I remember his telling us the now generally +received story of Pitt dictating a King's speech off-hand—then a more +difficult task than at the present day—without the slightest +hesitation; this speech being adopted by his colleagues nearly word for +word as it was written down. +</P> + +<P> +Walter Scott was quite delightful, appearing full of fire and +animation, and told some interesting anecdotes connected with his early +life in Scotland. I remember his proving himself, what would have been +called in the olden times he delighted to portray, "a stout +trencher-man." Nor were his attentions confined by any means to the +eatables; on the contrary, he showed himself worthy to have made a +third in the famous carousal in Ivanhoe, between the Black Knight and +the Holy Clerk of Copmanhurst. +</P> + +<P> +Byron, whom I had before seen at the shooting galleries and elsewhere, +was then a very handsome man, with remarkably fine eyes and hair; but +was, as usual, all show-off and affectation. I recollect his saying +that he disliked seeing women eat, or to have their company at dinner, +from a wish to believe, if possible, in their more ethereal nature; but +he was rallied into avowing that his chief dislike to their presence at +the festive board arose from the fact of their being helped first, and +consequently getting all the wings of the chickens, whilst men had to +be content with the legs or other parts. Byron, on this occasion, was +in great good humour, and full of boyish and even boisterous mirth. +</P> + +<P> +Croker was also agreeable, notwithstanding his bitter and sarcastic +remarks upon everything and everybody. The sneering, ill-natured +expression of his face, struck me as an impressive contrast to the +frank and benevolent countenance of Walter Scott. +</P> + +<P> +I never assisted at a more agreeable dinner. According to the custom of +the day, we sat late; the poets, statesmen, and soldiers, all drank an +immense quantity of wine, and I for one felt the effects of it next +day. Walter Scott gave one or two recitations, in a very animated +manner, from the ballads that he had been collecting, which delighted +his auditory; and both Lord Byron and Croker added to the hilarity of +the evening by quotations from, and criticisms on the more prominent +writers of the period. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="byron"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LORD BYRON +</H3> + +<P> +I knew very little of Lord Byron personally, but lived much with two of +his intimate friends, Scrope Davis and Wedderburn Webster; from whom I +frequently heard many anecdotes of him. I regret that I remember so +few; and wish that I had written down those told me by poor Scrope +Davis, one of the most agreeable men I ever met. +</P> + +<P> +When Byron was at Cambridge, he was introduced to Scrope Davis by their +mutual friend, Matthews, who was afterwards drowned in the river Cam. +After Matthews's death, Davis became Byron's particular friend, and was +admitted to his rooms at all hours. Upon one occasion he found the +poet in bed with his hair en papillote, upon which Scrope cried, "Ha, +ha! Byron, I have at last caught you acting the part of the Sleeping +Beauty." +</P> + +<P> +Byron, in a rage, exclaimed, "No, Scrope; the part of a d——d fool, +you should have said." +</P> + +<P> +"Well, then, anything you please; but you have succeeded admirably in +deceiving your friends, for it was my conviction that your hair curled +naturally." +</P> + +<P> +"Yes, naturally, every night," returned the poet; "but do not, my dear +Scrope, let the cat out of the bag, for I am as vain of my curls as a +girl of sixteen." +</P> + +<P> +When in London, Byron used to go to Manton's shooting-gallery, in Davis +street, to try his hand, as he said, at a wafer. Wedderburn Webster +was present when the poet, intensely delighted with his own skill, +boasted to Joe Manton that he considered himself the best shot in +London. "No, my lord," replied Manton, "not the best; but your +shooting, to-day, was respectable;" upon which Byron waxed wroth, and +left the shop in a violent passion. +</P> + +<P> +Lords Byron, Yarmouth, Pollington, Mountjoy, Walliscourt, Blandford, +Captain Burges, Jack Bouverie, and myself, were in 1814, and for +several years afterwards, amongst the chief and most constant +frequenters of this well-known shooting-gallery, and frequently shot at +the wafer for considerable sums of money. Manton was allowed to enter +the betting list, and he generally backed me. On one occasion, I hit +the wafer nineteen times out of twenty. +</P> + +<P> +Byron lived a great deal at Brighton, his house being opposite the +Pavilion. He was fond of boating, and was generally accompanied by a +lad, who was said to be a girl in boy's clothes. This report was +confirmed to me by Webster, who was then living at Brighton. The vivid +description of the page in Lara, no doubt, gave some plausibility to +this often-told tale. I myself witnessed the dexterous manner in which +Byron used to get into his boat; for, while standing on the beach, I +once saw him vault into it with the agility of a harlequin, in spite of +his lame foot. +</P> + +<P> +On one occasion, whilst his lordship was dining with a few of his +friends in Charles Street, Pall Mall, a letter was delivered to Scrope +Davis, which required an immediate answer. Scrope, after reading its +contents, handed it to Lord Byron. It was thus worded:— +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"MY DEAR SCROPE,—Lend me 500£. for a few days; the funds are shut for +the dividends, or I would not have made this request. +<BR><BR> +"G. BRUMMELL." +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +The reply was:— +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="letter"> +"My DEAR BRUMMELL,—All my money is locked up in the funds. +<BR><BR> +"SCROPE DAVIS." +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +This was just before Brummell's escape to the Continent. +</P> + +<P> +I have frequently asked Scrope Davis his private opinion of Lord Byron, +and invariably received the same answer—that he considered Lord Byron +very agreeable and clever, but vain, overbearing, conceited, +suspicious, and jealous. Byron hated Palmerston, but liked Peel, and +thought that the whole world ought to be constantly employed in +admiring his poetry and himself: he never could write a poem or a drama +without making himself its hero, and he was always the subject of his +own conversation. +</P> + +<P> +During one of Henry Hobhouse's visits to Byron, at his villa near +Genoa, and whilst they were walking in the garden, his lordship +suddenly turned upon his guest, and, apropos of nothing, exclaimed, +"Now, I know, Hobhouse, you are looking at my foot." Upon which +Hobhouse kindly replied, "My dear Byron, nobody thinks of or looks at +anything but your head." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="shelley"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +SHELLEY +</H3> + +<P> +Shelley, the poet, cut off at so early an age; just when his great +poetical talents had been matured by study and reflection, and when he +probably would have produced some great work, was my friend and +associate at Eton. He was a boy of studious and meditative habits, +averse to all games and sports, and a great reader of novels and +romances. He was a thin, slight lad, with remarkably lustrous eyes, +fine hair, and a very peculiar shrill voice and laugh. His most +intimate friend at Eton was a boy named Price, who was considered one +of the best classical scholars amongst us. At his tutor, Bethell's, +where he lodged, he attempted many mechanical and scientific +experiments. By the aid of a common tinker, he contrived to make +something like a steam-engine, which, unfortunately, one day suddenly +exploded; to the great consternation of the neighbourhood and to the +imminent danger of a severe flogging from Dr. Reate. +</P> + +<P> +Soon after leaving school, and about the year 1810, he came, in a state +of great distress and difficulty, to Swansea, when we had an +opportunity of rendering him a service; but we never could ascertain +what had brought him to Wales, though we had reason to suppose it was +some mysterious affaire du coeur. +</P> + +<P> +The last time I saw Shelley was at Genoa, in 1822, sitting on the +sea-shore, and, when I came upon him, making a true poet's meal of +bread and fruit; He at once recognized me, jumped up, and appearing +greatly delighted, exclaimed, "Here you see me at my old Eton habits; +but instead of the green fields for a couch, I have here the shores of +the Mediterranean. It is very grand, and very romantic. I only wish I +had some of the excellent brown bread and butter we used to get at +Spiers's: but I was never very fastidious in my diet." Then he +continued, in a wild and eccentric manner: "Gronow, do you remember the +beautiful Martha, the Hebe of Spiers's? She was the loveliest girl I +ever saw, and I loved her to distraction." +</P> + +<P> +Shelley was looking careworn and ill; and, as usual, was very +carelessly dressed. He had on a large and wide straw hat, his long +brown hair, already streaked with grey, flowing in large masses from +under it, and presented a wild and strange appearance. +</P> + +<P> +During the time I sat by his side he asked many questions about myself +and many of our schoolfellows; but on my questioning him in turn about +himself, his way of life, and his future plans, he avoided entering +into any explanation: indeed, he gave such short and evasive answers, +that, thinking my inquisitiveness displeased him, I rose to take my +leave. I observed that I had not been lucky enough to see Lord Byron +in any of my rambles, to which he replied, "Byron is living at his +villa, surrounded by his court of sycophants; but I shall shortly see +him at Leghorn." We then shook hands. I never saw him again; for he +was drowned shortly afterwards, with his friend, Captain Williams, and +his body was washed ashore near Via Reggio. Every one is familiar with +the romantic scene which took place on the sea-shore when the remains +of my poor friend and Captain Williams were burnt, in the presence of +Byron and Trelawney, in the Roman fashion. His ashes were gathered into +an urn, and buried in the Protestant cemetery at Rome. He was but +twenty-nine years of age at his death. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="southey"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +ROBERT SOUTHEY, THE POET +</H3> + +<P> +In the year 1803, my father received a letter of introduction from Mr. +Rees, of the well-known firm of Longman, Paternoster Row, presenting +Robert Southey, the poet, to him. He came into Wales with the hope of +finding a cottage to reside in. Accordingly, a cavalcade was formed, +consisting of Mr. W. Gwynne, the two brothers Southey, my father, and +myself, and we rode up the Valley of Neath to look at a cottage about +eight miles from the town. The poet, delighted with the scenery and +situation, decided upon taking it; but the owner, unfortunately for the +honour of Welshmen, actually declined to let it to Robert Southey, +fearing that a poet could not find security for the small annual rent +of twenty-five pounds. This circumstance led the man of letters, who +eventually became one of the most distinguished men of his day, to seek +a home elsewhere, and the Lakes were at length chosen as his residence. +Probably the picturesque beauties of Cumberland compensated the +Laureate for the indignity put upon him by the Welshman. +</P> + +<P> +An act of Vandalism perpetrated in the same Vale of Neath, and +reflecting no honour on my countrymen, deserves here to be noted with +reprobation. A natural cascade, called Dyllais, which was so beautiful +as to excite the admiration of travellers, was destroyed by an agent to +Lord Jersey, the proprietor of the estate, in order to build a few +cottages and the lock of a canal. The rock down which this beautiful +cascade had flowed from the time of the Flood, and which had created a +scene of beauty universally admired, was blown up with gunpowder by +this man, who could probably appreciate no more beautiful sight than +that which presents itself from a window in Gray's or Lincoln's Inn, of +which he was a member. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="hesse"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CAPTAIN HESSE, FORMERLY OF THE 18TH HUSSARS +</H3> + +<P> +One of my most intimate friends was the late Captain Hesse, generally +believed to be a son of the Duke of York, by a German lady of rank. +Though it is not my intention to disclose certain family secrets of +which I am in possession, I may, nevertheless, record some +circumstances connected with the life of my friend, which were familiar +to a large circle with whom I mixed. Hesse, in early youth, lived with +the Duke and Duchess of York; he was treated in such a manner by them +as to indicate an interest in him by their Royal Highnesses which could +scarcely be attributed to ordinary regard, and was gazetted a cornet in +the 18th Hussars at seventeen years of age. Shortly afterwards, he +went to Spain, and was present in all the battles in which his regiment +was engaged; receiving a severe wound in the wrist at the battle of +Vittoria. When this became known in England, a royal lady wrote to +Lord Wellington, requesting that he might be carefully attended to; +and, at the same time, a watch, with her portrait, was forwarded, which +was delivered to the wounded Hussar by Lord Wellington himself. When +he had sufficiently recovered, Hesse returned to England, and passed +much of his time at Oatlands, the residence of the Duchess of York; he +was also honoured with the confidence of the Princess Charlotte and her +mother, Queen Caroline. +</P> + +<P> +Many delicate and important transactions were conducted through the +medium of Captain Hesse; in fact, it was perfectly well known that he +played a striking part in many scenes of domestic life which I do not +wish to reveal. I may, however, observe that the Prince Regent sent +the late Admiral Lord Keith to Hesse's lodgings, who demanded, in his +Royal Highness's name, the restitution of the watch and letters which +had been sent him when in Spain. After a considerable amount of +hesitation, the Admiral obtained what he wanted the following day; +whereupon Lord Keith assured him that the Prince Regent would never +forget so great a mark of confidence, and that the heir to the throne +would ever afterwards be his friend. I regret to say, from personal +knowledge, that, upon this occasion the Prince behaved most +ungratefully and unfeelingly; for, after having obtained all he wanted, +he positively refused to receive Hesse at Carlton House. +</P> + +<P> +Hesse's life was full of singular incidents. He was a great friend of +the Queen of Naples, grandmother of the ex-Sovereign of the Two +Sicilies; in fact, so notorious was that liaison, that Hesse was +eventually expelled from Naples under an escort of gendarmes. He was +engaged in several affairs of honour, in which he always displayed the +utmost courage; and his romantic career terminated by his being killed +in a duel by Count L—, natural son of the first Napoleon. He died as +he had lived, beloved by his friends, and leaving behind him little but +his name and the kind thoughts of those who survived him. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="visiting"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +VISITING IN THE COUNTRY +</H3> + +<P> +When I returned to London from Paris, in 1815, upon promotion, I was +accompanied by Colonel Brooke, who was good enough to invite me to pass +some time at his brother's, Sir R. Brookes, in Cheshire, upon the +occasion of the christening of his eldest son. The fete was truly +magnificent, and worthy of our excellent host; and all the great people +of the neighbouring counties were present. +</P> + +<P> +Soon afterwards I went to the Hale, a country house near Liverpool, +belonging to Mr. Blackburn, one of the oldest members of the House of +Commons, where many persons, who had been at Sir Richard Brookes's, met +again. Mr. Blackburn was extremely absent and otherwise odd: upon one +occasion I gave him a letter to frank, which he deliberately opened and +read in my presence; and on my asking him if it amused him, he replied +that he did not understand what it meant. Upon another occasion the +Duke of Gloucester, accompanied by Mr. Blackburn, went out to shoot +pheasants in the preserves near the Hale; when all of a sudden, Mr. B. +observing that the Duke's gun was cocked, asked his Royal Highness +whether he always carried his gun cocked. "Yes, Blackburn, always," +was the reply. +</P> + +<P> +"Well then, good morning, your Royal Highness; I will no longer +accompany you." +</P> + +<P> +At dinner Mr. Blackburn was very eccentric: he would never surrender +his place at table even to royalty; so the Duke was obliged to sit near +him. Whenever the royal servant filled the Duke's glass with wine and +water, Mr. B. invariably drank it off; until at length, the Duke asked +his servant for more wine and water, and anticipating a repetition of +the farce that had so often been played, drank it off, and said, "Well, +Blackburn, I have done you at last." After dinner the Duke and the men +went to join the ladies in the drawing-room, where the servant in royal +livery was waiting, holding a tray upon which was a cup of tea for the +Duke. Mr. Blackburn, observing the servant in waiting, and that nobody +took the cup of tea, determined on drinking it; but the domestic +retired a little, to endeavour to prevent it. Mr. Blackburn, however, +followed and persisted; Upon which the servant said, "Sir, it is for +his Royal Highness." +</P> + +<P> +"D—— his Royal Highness, I will have this tea." +</P> + +<P> +The Duke exclaimed, "That's right, Blackburn," and ordered the servant +to hand it to him. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="kelly"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +COLONEL KELLY AND HIS BLACKING +</H3> + +<P> +Among the odd characters I have met with, I do not recollect anyone +more eccentric than the late Lieutenant-colonel Kelly, of the First +Foot Guards, who was the vainest man I ever encountered. He was a +thin, emaciated-looking dandy, but had all the bearing of the +gentleman. He was haughty in the extreme, and very fond of dress; his +boots were so well varnished that the polish now in use could not +surpass Kelly's blacking in brilliancy; his pantaloons were made of the +finest leather, and his coats were inimitable: in short, his dress was +considered perfect. +</P> + +<P> +His sister held the place of housekeeper to the Custom-house, and when +it was burnt down, Kelly was burnt with it, in endeavoring to save his +favorite boots. When the news of his horrible death became known, all +the dandies were anxious to secure the services of his valet, who +possessed the mystery of the inimitable blacking. Brummell lost no +time in discovering his place of residence, and asked what wages he +required; the servant answered, his late master gave him 150£. a-year, +but it was not enough for his talents, and he should require 200£.; +upon which Brummell said, "well, if you will make it guineas, I shall +be happy to attend upon you." The late Lord Plymouth eventually secured +this phoenix of valets at 200£. a-year, and bore away the sovereignty +of boots. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="allen"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LORD ALLEN AND COUNT D'ORSAY +</H3> + +<P> +Lord Allen being rather the worse for drinking too much wine at dinner, +teased Count D'Orsay, and said some very disagreeable things, which +irritated him; when suddenly John Bush entered the club and shook hands +with the Count, who exclaimed, "Voila, la difference entre une bonne +bouche et une mauvaise haleine." +</P> + +<P> +The following bon mot was also attributed to the Count: General Ornano, +observing a certain nobleman—who, by some misfortune in his youth, +lost the use of his legs—in a Bath chair, which he wheeled about, and +inquiring the name of the English peer, D'Orsay answered, "Pere la +Chaise." +</P> + +<P> +The Count had many disciples among our men of fashion, but none of them +succeeded in copying the original. His death produced, both in London +and in Paris, a deep and universal regret. The Count's life has been +so well delineated in the public prints, that nothing I could say would +add to the praise that has been bestowed upon him. Perfectly natural +in manners and language, highly accomplished, and never betraying the +slightest affectation or pretension, he had formed friendships with +some of the noblest and most accomplished men in England. He was also +a great favourite in Paris, where he had begun to exercise his talent +as an artist, when death prematurely removed him from society. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="phelps"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Mr. PHELPS +</H3> + +<P> +Mr. Phelps, a chorus singer, and an excellent musician, with good looks +and address, contrived to ingratiate himself with the Marchioness of +Antrim, and was fortunate enough to marry her ladyship, by whose means +he was created a baronet, and allied to some of our most aristocratic +families. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="bloomfield"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE LATE LORD BLOOMFIELD +</H3> + +<P> +The late Lord Bloomfield likewise owed his elevation to the Peerage to +his musical talents. When the Prince of Wales was living at the +Pavilion at Brighton, he wanted some one who could accompany him on the +violoncello, and having ascertained that Captain Bloomfield, of the +Royal Artillery, who was then at Brighton with his troop, was an +accomplished violoncello player, the captain was accordingly summoned +to appear before the Prince, at the Pavilion. From that night +commenced an intimacy which for many years existed between the Prince +and Captain Bloomfield; who for a considerable length of time was well +known in fashionable circles under the title of Sir Benjamin +Bloomfield. A court intrigue, headed by a fascinating marchioness, +caused him to be sent into splendid exile: this lady attributing to Sir +Benjamin Bloomfield her being compelled to send back some jewels which +had been presented to her by the Prince Regent; but which, it was +discovered, belonged to the Crown, and could not be alienated. Sir +Benjamin was created a Peer, and sent to Stockholm as ambassador, where +his affable manners and his unostentatious hospitality rendered him +exceedingly popular; and he became as great a favorite with Bernadotte +as he had been with the Prince Regent. The name of Bloomfield is at +this day respected in Sweden. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="canning"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE RIGHT HON. GEORGE CANNING +</H3> + +<P> +When Mr. Canning retired from Portugal, he was received at Paris with a +distinction and a deference perhaps never before bestowed on a foreign +diplomatist; he dined with Charles X. almost tete-a-tete, and was +scrambled for by the leading aristocracy of France. It happened that +he also dined, on one occasion, with the Bailly Ferret, who was the +oldest foreign ambassador in Paris; and it was generally understood +that Canning, who had the reputation of being a gourmand, and was not +in robust health at the time, never thoroughly recovered from these +Parisian hospitalities. A short time after, this great orator, and the +most brilliant statesman of the day, breathed his last at Chiswick, in +the same room in which Charles James Fox died. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="boehm"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +MRS. BOEHM, OF ST. JAMES'S SQUARE +</H3> + +<P> +This lady used to give fashionable balls and masquerades, to which I +look back with much pleasure. The Prince Regent frequently honoured her +fetes with his presence. Mrs. Boehm, on one occasion, sent invitations +to one of her particular friends, begging him to fill them up, and +tickets were given by him to Dick Butler (afterwards Lord Glengal) and +to Mr. Raikes. Whilst they were deliberating in what character they +should go, Dick Butler—for by that name he was only then +known—proposed that Raikes should take the part of Apollo; which the +latter agreed to, provided Dick would be his lyre. The noble lord's +reputation for stretching the long bow rendered this repartee so +applicable, that it was universally repeated at the clubs. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="goodall"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +DR. GOODALL, OF ETON +</H3> + +<P> +This gentleman was proverbially fond of punning. About the same time +that he was made Provost of Eton, he received, also, a Stall at +Windsor. A young lady of his acquaintance, while congratulating him on +his elevation, and requesting him to give the young ladies of Eton and +Windsor a ball during the vacation, happened to touch his wig with her +fan, and caused the powder to fly about. Upon which the doctor +exclaimed, "My dear, you see you can get the powder out of the canon, +but not the ball." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="melbourne"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LORD MELBOURNE, THE DUKE OF LEINSTER, AND LORD NORMANBY +</H3> + +<P> +When Lord Melbourne offered the garter to the Duke of Leinster, his +grace is reported to have answered that he did not want it; adding, "It +will, no doubt, be eagerly accepted by one of your lordship's +supporters in the Upper House." On another occasion, when Lord +Normanby was soliciting Lord Melbourne to be made a marquis, the noble +Premier observed, in his jocular way, "Why, Normanby, you are not such +a d——d fool as to want that!" The favour, however, was eventually +granted. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="gloucester"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE DUKE OF GLOUCESTER +</H3> + +<P> +His Royal Highness, who was in the habit of saying very ludicrous +things, asked one of his friends in the House of Lords, on the occasion +when William IV. assented to Lord Grey's Proposition to pass the Reform +Bill coute qui coute, "Who is Silly Billy now?" This was in allusion +to the general opinion that was prevalent of the Royal Duke's weakness, +and which had obtained for him the sobriquet of "Silly Billy." +</P> + +<P> +The Duke frequently visited Cheltenham during the season. Upon one +occasion, he called upon Colonel Higgins, brother to the equerry of his +Royal Highness the Prince Regent, and, on inquiring of the servant if +his master was at home, received for answer, "My master is dying." +</P> + +<P> +"Dying!" repeated the Duke; "have you sent for a doctor?" +</P> + +<P> +"No, sir." +</P> + +<P> +His Royal Highness immediately ran back into the street, and, having +the good fortune to find a medical man, he requested him to come at +once to Colonel Higgins, as he was on the point of death. The Duke and +the doctor soon reached the colonel's house, and, after again asking +the servant how his master was, that functionary replied, "I told you, +sir, that he is dying." They mounted the staircase, and were rather +amused to find the reported invalid busily occupied in dyeing his hair. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="cork"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LADY CORK +</H3> + +<P> +In 1819, this venerable lady lived in Old Burlington Street, where she +gave many parties, to persons of all nations, and contrived to bring +together foreigners from the wilds of America, the Cape of Good Hope, +and even savages from the isles of the Pacific; in fact, she was the +notorious lion-hunter of her age. It was supposed that she had a +peculiar ignorance of the laws of meum and tuum, and that her monomania +was such that she would try to get possession of whatever she could +place her hands upon; so that it was dangerous to leave in the +ante-room anything of value. On application being made, however, the +articles were usually returned the following day, the fear of the law +acting strongly upon her ladyship's bewildered brain. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="duchess"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE DUCHESS OF GORDON +</H3> + +<P> +This leader of fashion, who was wont to be the admiration of all +circles, was looked upon as the most ambitious of women, and her vanity +was fully gratified by the marriage of her daughters to the first +people in the realm—the Dukes of Richmond, Manchester, and Bedford, +and the Marquis of Cornwallis. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="bradshaw"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE LATE MRS. BRADSHAW (MARIA TREE) +</H3> + +<P> +The two Miss Trees, Maria and Ellen (the latter now Mrs. Kean), were +the great favourites of the Bath Stage for many seasons before they +became leading stars in London. Miss Ellen Tree made her first +appearance in a grand entertainment, called the Cataract of the Ganges, +in a magnificent car drawn by six horses. Her beauty made a deep +impression on the audience, which was naturally increased by her +subsequent exhibition of great talents. +</P> + +<P> +Miss Maria Tree was much admired as a vocalist, and her Viola, in +Twelfth Night, was one of the most popular performances of the day. +Mr. Bradshaw became desperately enamoured of her during her engagement +in London, and having learnt that she was about to go by the mail coach +to Birmingham, where she was to perform her principal characters, +thought it a favourable opportunity of enjoying her society; so he sent +his servant to secure him a place by the mail, under the name of +Tomkins. At the appointed time for departure, Mr. Bradshaw was at the +office, and jumping into the coach was soon whirled away; but great was +his disappointment at finding that the fair object of his admiration +was not a fellow-passenger: he was not consoled by discovering that +there were two mails, the one the Birmingham, mail, the other the +Birmingham and Manchester, and that whilst he was journeying by the +latter, Miss Tree was travelling in the other. +</P> + +<P> +On arriving at Birmingham, early in the morning, he left the coach and +stepped into the hotel, determined to remain there, and go to the +theatre on the following evening. He went to bed, and slept late the +following day; and on waking he remembered that his trunk with all his +money had gone on to Manchester, and that he was without the means of +paying his way. Seeing the Bank of Birmingham opposite the hotel, he +went over and explained his position to one of the partners, giving his +own banker's address in London, and showing letters addressed to him as +Mr. Bradshaw. Upon this he was told that with such credentials he might +have a loan; and the banker said he would write the necessary letter +and cheque, and send the money over to him at the hotel. Mr. Bradshaw, +pleased with this kind attention, sat himself down comfortably to +breakfast in the coffee-room. According to promise, the cashier made +his appearance at the hotel, and asked the waiter for Mr. Bradshaw. +</P> + +<P> +"No such gentleman here," was the reply. +</P> + +<P> +"Oh, yes, he came by the London mail." +</P> + +<P> +"No, sir; no one came but Mr. Tomkins, who was booked as inside +passenger to Manchester." +</P> + +<P> +The cashier was dissatisfied; but the waiter added, "Sir, you can look +through the window of the coffee-room door, and see the gentleman +yourself." +</P> + +<P> +On doing so, he beheld the Mr. Tomkins, alias Mr. Bradshaw, and +immediately returned to the Bank, telling what he himself had heard and +seen. The banker went over to the hotel, had a consultation with the +landlord, and it was determined that a watch should be placed upon the +suspicious person who had two names and no luggage, and who was booked +to Manchester but had stopped at Birmingham. +</P> + +<P> +The landlord summoned boots—a little lame fellow, of most ludicrous +appearance,—and pointing to the gentleman in the coffee-room, told him +his duty for the day was to follow him wherever he went, and never to +lose sight of him; but above all to take care that he did not get away. +Boots nodded assent, and immediately mounted guard. Mr. Bradshaw +having taken his breakfast and read the papers, looked at his watch, +and sallied forth to see something of the goodly town of Birmingham. He +was much surprised at observing a little odd-looking man surveying him +most attentively, and watching his every movement; stopping whenever he +stopped, and evidently taking a deep interest in all he did. At last, +observing that he was the object of this incessant espionage, and +finding that he had a shilling left in his pocket, he hailed one of the +coaches that ran short distances in those days when omnibuses were not. +This, however, did not suit little boots, who went up to him and +insisted that he must not leave the town. +</P> + +<P> +Mr. Bradshaw's indignation was naturally excessive, and he immediately +returned to the hotel, where he found a constable ready to take him +before the mayor as an impostor and swindler. He was compelled to +appear before his worship, and had the mortification of being told that +unless he could give some explanation, he must be content with a +night's lodging in a house of detention. Mr. Bradshaw had no +alternative but to send to the fair charmer of his heart to identify +him; which she most readily did, as soon as rehearsal was over. +Explanations were then entered into; but he was forced to give the +reason of his being in Birmingham, which of course made a due +impression on the lady's heart, and led to that happy result of their +interviews—a marriage which resulted in the enjoyment of mutual +happiness for many years. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="jewellery"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LADIES' JEWELLERY AND LOVERS +</H3> + +<P> +Some of the most magnificent fortunes of England have, in the first +instance, been undermined by an extravagant expenditure on jewellery, +which has been given to ladies, married and unmarried, who have +fascinated their wealthy admirers and made them their slaves. Hamlet, +and Rundell and Bridge, were in my day patronized by the great, and +obtained large sums of money from their enamoured clients, to whom they +often became bankers. +</P> + +<P> +On the day after the coronation of George IV., Hamlet made his +appearance at the house of Mr. Coutts, in Piccadilly, the corner of +Stratton Street. It was during dinner; but, owing no doubt to a +previous arrangement, he was at once admitted, when he placed before +the rich banker a magnificent diamond cross, which had been worn the +previous day by the Duke of York. It at once attracted the admiration +of Mrs. Coutts, who loudly exclaimed, "How happy I should be with such +a splendid specimen of jewellery." "What is it worth?" immediately +exclaimed Mr. Coutts. "I could not allow it to pass out of my +possession for less than 15,000£.," said the wary tradesman. "Bring me +a pen and ink," was the only answer made by the doting husband; and he +at once drew a cheque for that amount upon the bank in the Strand; and +with much delight the worthy old gentleman placed the jewel upon the +fair bosom of the lady: +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> + "Upon her breast a sparkling cross she wore,<BR> + Which Jews might kiss, and infidels adore."<BR> +</P> + +<P> +The Earl of C—, whose reputation in the sporting world was of the +highest order, and who had obtained some notoriety by his amours, fell +into the hands of Hamlet, who was known to the aristocracy by his mock +title of "Prince of Denmark." Hamlet placed before him, on one +occasion, jewels to the amount of thirty thousand pounds, and +volunteered, as his client was not of age, to give him credit for +several months. The offer was accepted, and the brilliant present +became the possession of a young lady, one of the Terpsichorean tribe +(Mademoiselle Le G.), whose charms had captivated the youthful +nobleman, and who had so irrevocably fascinated him by the expression +of her love, awakened by the prospect of a rich remuneration, that she +accepted him as the sole possessor of a heart which had been before at +the disposal of any rich admirer whose purse was worthy her +consideration. +</P> + +<P> +This lady, who is now somewhat advanced in years, but has still the +remains of beauty, is living in France upon her estate; the produce of +the many charms which she once possessed, and which she turned to such +advantage, as to make her society even up to this day courted by those +who look upon wealth as the great source of distinction, and who are +willing to disbelieve any stories that they may accidentally hear of +her previous history. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="seymour"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE LATE LORD HENRY SEYMOUR +</H3> + +<P> +I knew Lord Henry perhaps better than any other Englishman, having +lived with him on terms of great intimacy. He was famous for his +racing stud and good taste in his carriages and riding-horses. It was +said, by persons who were little acquainted with him, that he was fond +of masquerades, fighting, and was also the terror of pugilists, from +his great strength and science in boxing; on the contrary, he was a +gentle, retiring, and humane man, and never was known to have been +present at a masquerade, or any place of the sort. But it +unfortunately happened that a man named "Franconi," of the Circus—a +low-born and vulgar fellow—resembled him in looks and stature, and +having been mistaken for my noble friend gave himself out as Lord +Seymour in those dens of infamy, where the noble lord was unknown. +</P> + +<P> +Lord Henry was a man of fine taste, and fond of the arts, and, at his +death, his paintings, library, and plate fetched a considerable sum at +public auction. During his lifetime he patronized young artists: often +advancing them money, and assisting them in every possible way. +</P> + +<P> +Lord Henry Seymour was the founder of the French Jockey Club, and, in +conjunction with the late Duke de Gramont (better known in England as +the Count de Guiche), made racing in France what it now is: that is, +they placed the turf upon a respectable footing. Lord Henry +established a school of arms and gymnasium in his hotel on the +Boulevard des Italiens, which became the most celebrated in Europe. He +himself was an adept in the art of fencing, his skill was considered by +the professors to be incomparable. +</P> + +<P> +His kindness of heart and unostentatious generosity were his noblest +qualities. One morning, whilst we were breakfasting in his library, a +friend entered, and, with a sad countenance, informed Lord Henry that +he had that morning been visiting an old friend of his, a man of good +birth, who, with his wife and children, were absolutely starving, and +that they were reduced to sleep upon straw. Lord Henry, touched by +this painful information, asked where those poor people were to be +found, and being told, he said not a word more, but ordered his +carriage and went out. The next morning the same gentleman made his +appearance, and said, "I call to tell you, Seymour, that I am just come +from my poor friend, who, I am happy to say, has received relief, in +the shape of furniture, bedding, linen, and food, from some kind +person, who also left a considerable sum of money to purchase wearing +apparel for the family." +</P> + +<P> +Seymour never moved a muscle of his face, and we were wondering from +whence the relief came, when a fine-looking fellow entered, bowing in +the most respectful manner, and addressed his lordship in the following +terms:—"My lord, I am obliged to confess that I have taken some +trouble to discover the name of our benefactor, and, from all I have +been able to learn, it cannot be any other than your lordship; I +therefore deem it my duty, on behalf of my wife, children, and self, to +return you my heartfelt thanks for this unexampled act of charity +towards a perfect stranger." The poor fellow shed tears in thus +addressing his lordship, who kindly gave him his hand, and promised to +be his friend for the future; which promise he fulfilled, by procuring +him a place under the Government, that enabled him to live happily and +bring up his family with honour and comfort. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="france"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +FRANCE AND THE FRENCH +</H3> + +<P> +I will not permit this little volume to make its appearance in English +society, without a few words about a people with whom I have mingled +for nearly forty years. When I first came to France, few of my +countrypeople travelled, save those belonging to the rich and +aristocratic classes; it was not, therefore, surprising that those +whose interest it might have been, on both sides of the Channel, to +create a bad feeling between England and France, found little +difficulty in doing so. An Englishman was taught to hate the French as +well as to observe the Ten Commandments; and a Frenchman, on the other +hand, was educated with the idea that his only enemy on the face of the +earth was an Englishman. +</P> + +<P> +I regard this stimulated hostile feeling between two nations which must +ever influence the welfare of the human race more than any others, as +one of the greatest calamities that could curse humanity. We have only +to read history from the days of Agincourt up to our later struggles +with Napoleon I., to come to the conclusion that the two bravest and +the most intelligent nations on the face of the earth have, from +DYNASTIC ambition, and a want of the people knowing each other, been +ever engaged in inflicting mutual disasters, which have impeded for +centuries the progress, civilization, and prosperity of both; whilst +the want of a proper understanding between the two countries has +materially aided in retarding other nations in obtaining that political +emancipation necessary to the happiness of mankind. +</P> + +<P> +I have lived through a period characterized by sanguinary wars and huge +national debts, and have remained in this world long enough to +calculate their results. I am afraid we must often be content with +that empty glory which lives only in the pages of history. A battle +fought fifty years ago appears very often of no more utility than the +splendid tomb of a Necropolis. Events and objects for which men by +thousands were brought together in deadly combat assume, a few years +afterwards, mighty small proportions; and those who have taken part in +deadly struggles, at a later period marvel at the enthusiasm which then +animated them. I am no believer in that era of happiness which some +divines imagine to be so near at hand; nor do I imagine that the next +two or three hundred years will witness the sword turned into the +reaping-hook of peaceful industry; but what I do believe in, and what I +hope for, is that nations will know each other better than they did of +old. It will be more difficult for sovereigns and governments to bring +about wars between neighboring nations now, than it was before the +existence of that intercommunication which in our day has been created +by the press, the railway, and the electric telegraph. +</P> + +<P> +I have lived long enough to find hundreds of my countrymen +participating in a real knowledge of the French, and believing with me +that they are a brave, intelligent, and generous nation. Nearly half a +century of experience amongst them has taught me that there is much to +learn and much that is worthy of imitation in France. The social habits +of the French, and their easy mode of communication, always gain the +admiration, and often invite the attachment of foreigners. They are +less prejudiced than we islanders, and are much more citizens of the +world than ourselves. I have received an immense amount of courtesy in +France; and if there be less of solid friendship—which, however, in +England is based too often on a similarity of birth, position, and +wealth—in France, you have, at least, a greater chance than in England +of making a friend of a man who neither looks to your ancestors nor +your amount of riches before he proffers you the most sincere intimacy, +and, if necessary, disinterested aid, purely on the ground of your own +merit and character. +</P> + +<P> +Many of the better qualities of the French are not discoverable by the +superficial traveller, any more than the sterling qualities of the +Englishman are appreciated by the foreigner who makes a brief sojourn +in Great Britain. Slowly, but, I believe, surely, the agreeable +knowledge that I possess of the French is becoming more universal; and +I cannot but imagine that such a correct appreciation will be fraught +with the most valuable political as well as social results. +</P> + +<P> +Intelligent Englishmen have lived long enough to appreciate the genius +of Napoleon I., whose mode of governing France has been applied by +Napoleon III. with a success which prejudice even has been compelled to +acknowledge. But I remember a period when probably not a dozen +Englishmen could have been found to speak of the first Emperor with the +most ordinary common sense. I will, however, record one honourable +exception to the rule. The late Lord Dudley and Ward, an eccentric, but +able man, was at Vienna, in the midst of a large party, who were all +more or less abusing or depreciating the fallen hero, whose very name +had so long created fear and hatred amongst them. It was naturally +supposed that the Englishman who was silently listening to this +conversation must of course, as the natural enemy of France, approve of +all that had been said. Prince Metternich turned at last to his guest, +and said, "Et vous, my Lord, que pensez vous de Napoleon?" "Je pense," +replied Lord Dudley, "qu'il a rendu la gloire passee douteuse, et la +renommee future impossible." +</P> + +<P> +As an old soldier and an admirer of the Duke of Wellington, I cannot +altogether admit the entire justice of the observation; yet, spoken by +an Englishman to the enemies of the exiled Emperor, it was a gallant +homage paid to fallen greatness. +</P> + +<P> +The great man who now wields the destinies of France possesses many of +the remarkable qualities of the founder of his dynasty: his energetic +will, his extensive and varied knowledge, his aptitude for government, +his undaunted bravery, and that peculiar tact which leads him to say +the right thing at the right time. But to these rare gifts he joins +the most princely generosity, and a kind and gentle heart: he has never +been known to forsake a friend, or leave unrewarded any proofs of +devotion shown to him in his days of exile. He is adored by the vast +majority of the French nation, and even his political opponents, if +accidentally brought under the influence of his particularly winning +and gracious manner, are, in spite of themselves, charmed and softened. +</P> + +<P> +There can be no doubt that Napoleon III. enjoys a well-merited +popularity, and that there is throughout all classes a deep and earnest +confidence that the honour and glory of France are safe in his hands. +</P> + +<P> +It is just this mighty power, founded on the love and trust of his +people, which is the surest pledge that peace will be maintained +between our country and France. Napoleon III. does not require to +court popularity by pandering to the anti-English prejudices still +retained by a small minority of his subjects; and, unlike the +representatives of less popular dynasties, he can afford to show that +he is not only the beloved and mighty ruler of the French nation, but +also the firm ally and faithful friend of England. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR><BR> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Reminiscences of Captain Gronow, by +Rees Howell Gronow + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF CAPTAIN GRONOW *** + +***** This file should be named 3798-h.htm or 3798-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/9/3798/ + +Produced by Tobias D. Robison and Pam Wisniewski. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Reminiscences of Captain Gronow + +Author: Rees Howell Gronow + +Posting Date: May 19, 2009 [EBook #3798] +Release Date: February, 2003 +First Posted: September 13, 2001 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF CAPTAIN GRONOW *** + + + + +Produced by Tobias D. Robison and Pam Wisniewski. HTML +version by Al Haines. + + + + + + + + + + +Reminiscences of Captain Gronow + + +by + +Captain Rees Howell Gronow + + + + +EDITOR'S NOTE + + +The spelling in this book is rather creative (including the occasional +spelling of "ankle" as "ancle"), and the punctuation is remarkably +varied. I have tried to preserve both, except that the spaces between a +word and the following colon or semicolon have been removed. There are +also many French words and phrases, whose meaning will usually be +obvious as soon as you realise they are French. Of course I apologize +for any genuine errors in spelling and punctuation that have crept into +this file. + +Captain Gronow is an entertaining raconteur who brings his own +experiences in the Regency period and the wars with France delightfully +to life. Gronow published several sets of memoirs. This file covers +the first half of what he published. Search the web for "Captain +Gronow" to learn more about this interesting gentleman. + +The text is arranged as a series of topics, each with a title in +capital letters. Sometimes there is continuity in this arrangement, +sometimes there is not. There is no other structure to the text. + +I have used the character for "pounds" (money) in this text: 'L'. If +the character in single quotes does not look like a pound sign to you, +well, at least you know what is intended. The book text uses a lower +case 'l' for this purpose, but in computer fonts the 'l', looking just +like a '1' when following a string of digits, is confusing. + +Many thanks to Pam Wisniewski for proofreading this text. + + +--Tobias D. Robison, September, 2001 tdr21@columbia.edu + + + + + + + + +Reminiscences of Captain Gronow + + + + +Formerly of the Grenadier Guards, and M.P. for Stafford: + +being + +Anecdotes of the camp, the court, and the clubs, at the close of the +last war with France. + +Related by himself. + + + + "O friends regretted, scenes for ever dear! + Remembrance hails you with her warmest tear! + Drooping she bends o'er pensive fancy's urn, + To trace the hours which never can return." + + + +London: + +Smith, Elder and Co., 65, Cornhill. + +M.DCCC.LXII. + + + +CONTENTS + + + A FEW WORDS TO THE READER + MY ENTRANCE INTO THE ARMY + DEPARTURE FOR AND ARRIVAL IN SPAIN + THE UNIFORM AND BEARING OF THE FRENCH SOLDIER + MAJOR-GENERAL STEWART AND LORD WELLINGTON + ST. JEAN DE LUZ + FOOLHARDINESS + DISCIPLINE + SIR JOHN WATERS + THE BATTLE OF THE NIVELLE + THE PASSAGE OF THE ADOUR + ARRIVAL OF THE GUARDS AT BORDEAUX + MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE + MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE AND COL. WARDLE + SOCIETY IN LONDON IN 1814 + THE ITALIAN OPERA.--CATALANI + DINING AND COOKERY IN ENGLAND FIFTY YEARS AGO + THE PRINCE REGENT + PRINCESS CHARLOTTE OF WALES AT A FETE IN THE YEAR 1813, AT CARLTON HOUSE + BEAU BRUMMELL + ROMEO COATES + HYDE PARK AFTER THE PENINSULAR WAR + LONDON HOTELS IN 1814 + THE CLUBS OF LONDON IN 1814 + REMARKABLE CHARACTERS OF LONDON ABOUT THE YEARS 1814, 1815, 1816 + THE GUARDS MARCHING FROM ENGHIEN ON THE 15TH OF JUNE + QUATRE BRAS + GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE FIELD OF WATERLOO + THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON IN OUR SQUARE + THE FRENCH CAVALRY CHARGING THE BRUNSWICKERS + THE LAST CHARGE AT WATERLOO + HUGUEMONT + BYNG WITH HIS BRIGADE AT WATERLOO + THE LATE DUKE OF RICHMOND + THE UNFORTUNATE CHARGE OF THE HOUSEHOLD BRIGADE + THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON'S OPINION OF THE FRENCH CAVALRY + MARSHAL EXCELMANN'S OPINION OF THE BRITISH CAVALRY + APPEARANCE OF PARIS WHEN THE ALLIES ENTERED + MARSHAL NEY AND WELLINGTON + THE PALAIS ROYAL AFTER THE RESTORATION + THE ENGLISH IN PARIS AFTER THE RESTORATION OF THE BOURBONS + LES ANGLAISES POUR RIRE + COACHING AND RACING IN 1815 + PARISIAN CAFES IN 1815 + REVIEW OF THE ALLIED ARMIES BY THE ALLIED SOVEREIGNS IN PARIS + CONDUCT OF THE RUSSIAN AND PRUSSIAN SOLDIERS DURING THE OCCUPATION OF + PARIS BY THE ALLIES + THE BRITISH EMBASSY IN PARIS + ESCAPE OF LAVALETTE FROM PRISON + DUELLING IN FRANCE IN 1815 + PISTOL SHOOTING + THE FAUBOURG ST. GERMAIN + THE SALON DES ETRANGERS IN PARIS + THE DUCHESS DE BERRI AT MASS AT THE CHAPELLE ROYALE + LORD WESTMORELAND + ALDERMAN WOOD + THE OPERA + FANNY ELSSLER + CHARLES X. AND LOUIS PHILIPPE + LORD THANET + LORD GRANVILLE, THE BRITISH AMBASSADOR + MARSHAL BLUCHER + JEW MONEY-LENDERS + LORD ALVANLEY + GENERAL PALMER + "MONK" LEWIS + SIR THOMAS TURTON + GEORGE SMYTHE, THE LATE LORD STRANGFORD + THE HONOURABLE GEORGE TALBOT + A DINNER AT SIR JAMES BLAND BURGES'S, IN LOWER BROOK STREET; AUTUMN, 1815 + LORD BYRON + SHELLEY + ROBERT SOUTHEY, THE POET + CAPTAIN HESSE, FORMERLY OF THE 18TH HUSSARS + VISITING IN THE COUNTRY + COLONEL KELLY AND HIS BLACKING + LORD ALLEN AND COUNT D'ORSAY + Mr. PHELPS + THE LATE LORD BLOOMFIELD + THE RIGHT HON. GEORGE CANNING + MRS. BOEHM, OF ST. JAMES'S SQUARE + DR. GOODALL, OF ETON + LORD MELBOURNE, THE DUKE OF LEINSTER, AND LORD NORMANBY + THE DUKE OF GLOUCESTER + LADY CORK + THE DUCHESS OF GORDON + THE LATE MRS. BRADSHAW (MARIA TREE) + LADIES' JEWELLERY AND LOVERS + THE LATE LORD HENRY SEYMOUR + FRANCE AND THE FRENCH + + + + + +A FEW WORDS TO THE READER + + +It has been my lot to have lived through the greater part of one of the +most eventful centuries of England's history, and I have been thrown +amongst most of the remarkable men of my day; whether soldiers, +statesman, men of letters, theatrical people, or those whose birth and +fortune--rather, perhaps, than their virtues or talents--have caused +them to be conspicuous in society at home or abroad. Nature having +endowed me with a strong memory, I can recall with all their original +vividness scenes that took place fifty years ago, and distinctly +recollect the face, walk, and voice, as well as the dress and general +manner, of everyone whom I have known. I have frequently repeated to my +friends what I have seen and heard since the year that I joined the +Guards (1813), and have been urged to commit to paper my anecdotes and +reminiscences. + +Unfortunately, I have not the power of efficiently describing in words +the pictures that are hung up in the long gallery of my memory: a man +may see very distinctly the landscape before him, yet he may be unable +to delineate that which he gazes upon and is intimately acquainted +with. A viva voce narrative of an incident told to a friend in +conversation may pass muster, and one is able to fill up any gaps in an +imperfect description; but it always occurred to me that I had no right +to task a reader's time and patience unless I could put before him what +I had to say in a lucid and complete form; I therefore refrained from +committing myself to print. I have at length, however, yielded to the +suggestion of friends, and written down some anecdotes in the best way +I could. Soldiers are not generally famous for literary excellence, and +when I was young, the military man was, perhaps, much less a scholar +than he is at the present day; but I hope that the interest of the +matter will make up for any deficiency of style. + +In going over more than half a century, and treating of men, women and +events, it was necessary to leave out many anecdotes which would, +perhaps, have been more interesting than most of those that I have +given; for I would not willingly offend, or hurt the feelings of any +one, and I wish to respect the memory of the dead, as well as to take +into consideration the sensitiveness of the living. My Reminiscences, +it will be seen, are nothing more than miniature illustrations of +contemporary history; and though the reader may find here and there +scraps of biographical matter, I confine myself to facts and +characteristics which were familiar to the circle in which I moved, and +perhaps are as much public property as the painted portraits of +celebrities. + +Should this work meet with the approbation of the public, I hope at a +future time to publish an additional one, as my memory still serves me +with sufficient materials for another volume of a similar kind. + +R. H. Gronow. + + + + +MY ENTRANCE INTO THE ARMY + + +After leaving Eton, I received an Ensign's commission in the First +Guards during the month of December, 1812. Though many years have +elapsed, I still remember my boyish delight at being named to so +distinguished a regiment, and at the prospect of soon taking a part in +the glorious deeds of our army in Spain. I joined in February 1813, +and cannot but recollect with astonishment how limited and imperfect +was the instruction which an officer received at that time: he +absolutely entered the army without any military education whatever. We +were so defective in our drill, even after we had passed out of the +hands of the sergeant, that the excellence of our non-commissioned +officers alone prevented us from meeting with the most fatal disasters +in the face of the enemy. Physical force and our bull-dog energy +carried many a hard-fought field. Luckily, nous avons change tout +cela, and our officers may now vie with those of any other army in an +age when the great improvements in musketry, in artillery practice, and +in the greater rapidity of manoeuvring, have entirely changed the art +of war, and rendered the individual education of those in every grade +of command an absolute necessity. + +After passing through the hands of the drill sergeant with my friends +Dashwood, Batty, Browne, Lascelles, Hume, and Masters, and mounting +guard at St. James's for a few months, we were hurried off, one fine +morning, in charge of a splendid detachment of five hundred men to join +Lord Wellington in Spain. Macadam had just begun to do for England +what Marshal Wade did in Scotland seventy years before; and we were +able to march twenty miles a day with ease until we reached Portsmouth. +There we found transports ready to convey a large reinforcement, of +which we formed part, to Lord Wellington, who was now making his +arrangements, after taking St. Sebastian, for a yet more important +event in the history of the Peninsular War--the invasion of France. + + + + +DEPARTURE FOR AND ARRIVAL IN SPAIN + + +We sailed under convoy of the Madagascar frigate, commanded by Captain +Curtis; and, after a favourable voyage, we arrived at Passages. Our +stay there was short, for we were ordered to join the army without loss +of time. In three hours we got fairly into camp, where we were +received with loud cheers by our brothers in arms. + +The whole British army was here under canvas; our allies, the Spaniards +and Portuguese, being in the rear. About the middle of October, to our +great delight, the army received orders to cross the Bidassoa. At three +o'clock on the morning of the 15th our regiment advanced through a +difficult country, and, after a harassing march, reached the top of a +hill as the gray light of morning began to dawn. We marched in +profound silence, but with a pleasurable feeling of excitement amongst +all ranks at the thought of meeting the enemy, and perhaps with not an +equally agreeable idea that we might be in the next world before the +day was over. + +As we ascended the rugged side of the hill, I saw, for the first time, +the immortal Wellington. He was accompanied by the Spanish General, +Alava, Lord Fitzroy Somerset, and Major, afterwards Colonel Freemantle. +He was very stern and grave-looking; he was in deep meditation, so long +as I kept him in view, and spoke to no one. His features were bold, +and I saw much decision of character in his expression. He rode a +knowing-looking, thorough-bred horse, and wore a gray overcoat, Hessian +boots, and a large cocked hat. We commenced the passage of the Bidassoa +about five in the morning, and in a short time infantry, cavalry, and +artillery found themselves upon French ground. The stream at the point +we forded was nearly four feet deep, and had Soult been aware of what +we were about, we should have found the passage of the river a very +arduous undertaking. + +Three miles above, we discovered the French army, and ere long found +ourselves under fire. The sensation of being made a target to a large +body of men is at first not particularly pleasant, but "in a trice, the +ear becomes more Irish and less nice." The first man I ever saw killed +was a Spanish soldier, who was cut in two by a cannon ball. The French +army, not long after we began to return their fire, was in full +retreat; and after a little sharp, but desultory fighting, in which our +Division met with some loss, we took possession of the camp and strong +position of Soult's army. We found the soldiers' huts very +comfortable; they were built of branches of trees and furze, and formed +squares and streets, which had names placarded up, such as Rue de +Paris, Rue de Versailles, &c. We were not sorry to find ourselves in +such commodious quarters, as well as being well housed. The scenery +surrounding the camp was picturesque and grand. From our elevated +position, immediately in front, we commanded a wide and extensive +plain, intersected by two important rivers, the Nive and the Nivelle. +On the right, the lofty Pyrenees, with their grand and varied outline, +stood forth conspicuously in a blue, cloudless sky; on our left was the +Bay of Biscay, with our cruisers perpetually on the move. + +We witnessed from the camp, one night about twelve o'clock, a fight at +sea, between an English brig and a French corvette, which was leaving +the Adour with provisions and ammunition. She was chased by the brig, +and brought to action. The night was sufficiently clear to enable us +to discover distinctly the position of the vessels and the measured +flash of their guns. They were at close quarters, and in less than +half an hour we discovered the crew of the corvette taking to their +boats. Shortly afterwards the vessel blew up with a loud explosion. We +came to the conclusion that sea-fighting was more agreeable than +land-fighting, as the crews of the vessels engaged without previous +heavy marching, and with loose light clothing; there was no manoeuvring +or standing for hours on the defensive; the wounded were immediately +taken below and attended to, and the whole affair was over in a +pleasingly brief period. + + + + +THE UNIFORM AND BEARING OF THE FRENCH SOLDIER + + +The French infantry soldier averaged about five feet five or six in +height; in build they were much about what they are now, perhaps a +little broader over the shoulder. They were smart, active, handy +fellows, and much more able to look after their personal comforts than +British soldiers, as their camps indicated. The uniform of those days +consisted in a schako, which spread out at the top; a short-waisted, +swallow-tailed coat; and large, baggy trousers and gaiters. The +clothing of the French soldier was roomy, and enabled him to march and +move about at ease: no pipeclay accessories occupied their attention; +in a word, their uniforms and accoutrements were infinitely superior to +our own, taking into consideration the practical necessities of +warfare. Their muskets were inferior to ours, and their firing less +deadly. The French cavalry we thought badly horsed; but their +uniforms, though showy, were, like those of the infantry, comfortably +large and roomy. + +I have frequently remarked that firearms are of little use to the +mounted soldier, and often an incumbrance to man and horse. Cavalry +want only one arm--the sabre. Let the men be well mounted and at home +in the saddle. It requires great knowledge in a Commander-in-chief to +know when and how to use his cavalry. It has been my misfortune to +witness oft-repeated blunders in the employment of the best-mounted +regiments in the world. I consider the French generals had more +knowledge of the use of cavalry than our own, when a great battle was +to be fought. + + + + +MAJOR-GENERAL STEWART AND LORD WELLINGTON + + +If the present generation of Englishmen would take the trouble of +looking at the newspaper which fifty years ago informed the British +public of passing events both at home and abroad, they would, +doubtless, marvel at the very limited and imperfect amount of +intelligence which the best journals were enabled to place before their +readers. The progress of the Peninsular campaign was very imperfectly +chronicled; it will, therefore, be easily imagined what interest was +attached to certain letters that appeared in the Morning Chronicle +which criticised with much severity, and frequently with considerable +injustice, the military movements of Lord Wellington's Spanish campaign. + +The attention of the Commander-in-Chief being drawn to these periodical +and personal comments on his conduct of the war, his lordship at once +perceived from the information which they contained that they must have +been written by an officer holding a high command under him. Determined +to ascertain the author--who, in addressing a public journal, was +violating the Articles of War, and, it might be, assisting the +enemy--means were employed in London to identify the writer. The +result was, that Lord Wellington discovered the author of the letters +to be no other than Sir Charles Stewart, the late Lord Londonderry. As +soon as Lord Wellington had made himself master of this fact, he +summoned Sir Charles Stewart to head-quarters at Torres Vedras; and on +his appearance, he, without the least preface, addressed him thus:-- + +"Charles Stewart, I have ascertained with deep regret that you are the +author of the letters which appeared in the Morning Chronicle abusing +me and finding fault with my military plans." + +Lord Wellington paused here for a moment, and then continued: + +"Now, Stewart, you know your brother Castlereagh is my best friend, to +whom I owe everything; nevertheless, if you continue to write letters +to the Chronicle, or any other newspaper, by God, I will send you home." + +Sir Charles Stewart was so affected at this rebuke that he shed tears, +and expressed himself deeply penitent for the breach of confidence and +want of respect for the Articles of War. They immediately shook hands +and parted friends. It happened, however, that Sir Charles Stewart did +not remain long in the cavalry, of which he was Adjutant-General. +Within a few weeks he was named one of the Commissioners deputed to +proceed to the Allied Armies, where the Sovereigns were then completing +their plans to crush Napoleon. + + + + +ST. JEAN DE LUZ + + +During the winter of 1813, the Guards were stationed with head-quarters +at St Jean de Luz, and most comfortable we managed to make them. For +some short time previously we had been on scanty commons, and had +undergone considerable privation: indeed we might have said, like the +Colonel to Johnny Newcome on his arrival to join his regiment, "We sons +of Mars have long been fed on brandy and cigars." I had no cause to +complain personally; for my servant, a Sicilian, was one of the most +accomplished foragers (ill-natured persons might give him a worse name) +in the whole army; and when others were nearly starving, he always +managed to provide meat or poultry. He rode on his mule sometimes from +twenty to thirty miles, often running the greatest dangers, to procure +me a good meal; of which he took care to have, very justly, a large +share for himself. + +At St Jean de Luz, we were more attentive to our devotions than we had +been for some time. Divine service was performed punctually every +Sunday on the sand-hills near the town; Lord Wellington and his +numerous Staff placed themselves in the midst of our square, and his +lordship's chaplain read the service, to which Lord Wellington always +appeared to listen with great attention. + +The mayor of the town, thinking to please "the great English lord," +gave a ball at the Hotel de Ville: our Commander-in-Chief did not go +but was represented by Waters. I was there, and expected to see some +of the young ladies of the country so famed for their beauty; they +were, however, far too patriotic to appear, and the only lady present +was Lady Waldegrave, then living with her husband at head-quarters. +What was one partner among so many? The ball was a dead failure, in +spite of the efforts of the mayor, who danced, to our intense +amusement, an English hornpipe, which he had learnt in not a very +agreeable manner, viz. when a prisoner of war in the hulks at Plymouth. + +There were two packs of hounds at St Jean de Luz; one kept by Lord +Wellington, the other by Marsden, of the Commissariat: our officers +went uncommonly straight. Perhaps our best man across country (though +sometimes somewhat against his will) was the late Colonel Lascelles of +my regiment, then, like myself, a mere lad. He rode a horse seventeen +hands high, called Bucephalus, which invariably ran away with him, and +more than once had nearly capsized Lord Wellington. The good living at +St Jean de Luz agreed so well with my friend that he waxed fat, and +from that period to his death was known to the world by the jovial +appellation of Bacchus Lascelles. + +Shortly before we left St Jean de Luz, we took our turn of outposts in +the neighbourhood of Bidart, a large village, about ten miles from +Bayonne. Early one frosty morning in December, an order came, that if +we saw the enemy advancing, we were not to fire or give the alarm. +About five, we perceived two battalions wearing grenadier caps coming +on. They turned out to belong to a Nassau regiment which had occupied +the advanced post of the enemy, and, hearing that Napoleon had met with +great reverses in Germany, signified to us their intention to desert. +They were a fine-looking body of men, and appeared, I thought, rather +ashamed of the step they had taken. On the same day, we were relieved, +and on our way back met Lord Wellington with his hounds. He was +dressed in a light blue frock coat (the colour of the Hatfield hunt) +which had been sent out to him as a present from Lady Salisbury, then +one of the leaders of the fashionable world, and an enthusiastic +admirer of his lordship. + +Here, I remember seeing for the first time a very remarkable character, +the Hon. W. Dawson, of my regiment. He was surrounded by muleteers, +with whom he was bargaining to provide carriage for innumerable hampers +of wine, liqueurs, hams, potted meat, and other good things, which he +had brought from England. He was a particularly gentlemanly and +amiable man, much beloved by the regiment: no one was so hospitable or +lived so magnificently. His cooks were the best in the army, and he, +besides, had a host of servants of all nations--Spaniards, French, +Portuguese, Italians--who were employed in scouring the country for +provisions. Lord Wellington once honoured him with his company; and on +entering the ensign's tent, found him alone at table, with a dinner fit +for a king, his plate and linen in good keeping, and his wines perfect. +Lord Wellington was accompanied on this occasion by Sir Edward Pakenham +and Colonel du Burgh, afterwards Lord Downes. It fell to my lot to +partake of his princely hospitality and dine with him at his quarters, +a farmhouse in a village on the Bidassoa, and I never saw a better +dinner put upon table. The career of this amiable Amphitryon, to our +great regret, was cut short, after exercising for about a year a +splendid but not very wise hospitality. He had only a younger +brother's fortune; his debts became very considerable, and he was +obliged to quit the Guards. He and his friends had literally eaten up +his little fortune. + + + + +FOOLHARDINESS + + +I may here recount an instance of the folly and foolhardiness of youth, +and the recklessness to which a long course of exposure to danger +produces. When Bayonne was invested, I was one night on duty on the +outer picket. The ground inside the breastwork which had been thrown up +for our protection by Burgoyne was in a most disagreeable state for any +one who wished to repose after the fatigues of the day, being knee-deep +in mud of a remarkably plastic nature. I was dead tired, and +determined to get a little rest in some more agreeable spot; so calling +my sergeant, I told him to give me his knapsack for a pillow; I would +make a comfortable night of it on the top of the breastwork, as it was +an invitingly dry place. "For heaven's sake take care, sir," said he; +"you'll have fifty bullets in you: you will be killed to a certainty." +"Pooh, nonsense," said I, and climbing up, I wrapt myself in my cloak, +laid my head on the knapsack, and soon fell into a sound sleep. + +By the mercy of Providence I remained in a whole skin, either from the +French immediately underneath not perceiving me, or not thinking me +worth a shot; but when General Stopford came up with Lord James Hay +(who not long since reminded me of this youthful escapade) I received a +severe wigging, and was told to consider myself lucky that I was not +put under arrest for exposing my life in so foolish a manner. + +Among the many officers of the Guards who were taken prisoners in the +unfortunate sortie from Bayonne, was the Hon. H. Townshend, commonly +called Bull Townshend. He was celebrated as a bon vivant, and in +consequence of his too great indulgence in the pleasures of the table, +had become very unwieldy and could not move quick enough to please his +nimble captors, so he received many prods in the back from a sharp +bayonet. After repeated threats, however, he was dismissed with what +our American friends would be pleased to designate "a severe booting." +The late Sir Willoughby Cotton was also a prisoner. It really seemed +as if the enemy had made choice of our fattest officers. Sir +Willoughby escaped by giving up his watch and all the money which he +had in his pockets; but this consisting of a Spanish dollar only, the +smallness of the sum subjected him to the same ignominious treatment as +had been experienced by Townshend. + +Among the numerous bad characters in our ranks, several were coiners, +or utterers of bad money. In the second brigade of Guards, just before +we arrived at St. Jean de Luz, a soldier was convicted of this offence, +and was sentenced to receive 800 lashes. This man made sham Spanish +dollars out of the pewter spoons of the regiment. As he had before +been convicted and flogged, he received this terrible sentence, and +died under the lash. Would it not have been better to have condemned +him to be shot?-- It would have been more humane, certainly more +military, and far less brutal. + + + + +DISCIPLINE + + +When the headquarters of the army were at St Jean de Luz, Soult made a +movement in front of our right centre, which the English general took +for a reconnaissance. As the French general perceived that we had +ordered preparations to receive him, he sent a flag of truce to demand +a cessation of hostilities, saying that he wanted to shoot an officer +and several men for acts of robbery committed by them, with every sort +of atrocity, on the farmers and peasantry of the country. The +execution took place in view of both armies, and a terrible lesson it +was. I cannot specify the date of this event, but think it must have +been the latter end of November, 1813. About the same time General +Harispe, who commanded a corps of Basques, issued a proclamation +forbidding the peasantry to supply the English with provisions or +forage, on pain of death; it stated that we were savages, and, as a +proof of this, our horses were born with short tails. I saw this +absurd proclamation, which was published in French and in the Basque +languages, and distributed all over the country. Before we left the +neighbourhood of Bayonne for Bordeaux, a soldier was hanged for +robbery, on the sands of the Adour. This sort of punishment astonished +the French almost as much as it did the soldier. On a march we were +very severe, and if any of our men were caught committing an act of +violence or brigandage, the offender was tried by a drum-head +court-martial, and hanged in a very short time. + +I knew an officer of the 18th Hussars, W. R., young, rich, and a +fine-looking fellow, who joined the army not far from St Sebastian. +His stud of horses was remarkable for their blood, his grooms were +English, and three in number. He brought with him a light cart to +carry forage, and a fourgon for his own baggage. All went on well, +till he came to go on outpost duty; but not finding there any of the +comforts to which he had been accustomed, he quietly mounted his +charger, told his astonished sergeant that campaigning was not intended +for a gentleman, and instantly galloped off to his quarters, ordering +his servants to pack up everything immediately, as he had hired a +transport to take him off to England. He left us before any one had +time to stop him; and though despatches were sent off to the +Commander-in-Chief, requesting that a court-martial might sit to try +the young deserter, he arrived home long enough before the despatches +to enable him to sell out of his regiment. He deserved to have been +shot. + +Sir John Hope, who commanded our corps d'armee at Bayonne, had his +quarters at a village on the Adour, called Beaucauld. He was good +enough to name me to the command of the village; which honour I did not +hold for many days, for the famous sortie from Bayonne took place soon +after, and the general was made prisoner. + + + + +SIR JOHN WATERS + + +Amongst the distinguished men in the Peninsular war whom my memory +brings occasionally before me, is the well-known and highly popular +Quartermaster General Sir John Waters, who was born at Margam, a Welsh +village in Glamorganshire. He was one of those extraordinary persons +that seem created by kind nature for particular purposes; and, without +using the word in an offensive sense, he was the most admirable spy +that was ever attached to an army. One would almost have thought that +the Spanish war was entered upon and carried on in order to display his +remarkable qualities. He could assume the character of Spaniards of +every degree and station, so as to deceive the most acute of those whom +he delighted to imitate. In the posada of the village he was hailed by +the contrabandist or the muleteer as one of their own race; in the gay +assemblies he was an accomplished hidalgo; at the bull-fight the +toreador received his congratulations as from one who had encountered +the toro in the arena; in the church he would converse with the friar +upon the number of Ave Marias and Pater-nosters which could lay a +ghost, or tell him the history of everyone who had perished by the +flame of the Inquisition, relating his crime, whether carnal or +anti-Catholic; and he could join in the seguadilla or in the guaracha. +But what rendered him more efficient than all was his wonderful power +of observation and accurate description, which made the information he +gave so reliable and valuable to the Duke of Wellington. Nothing +escaped him. When amidst a group of persons, he would minutely watch +the movement, attitude, and expression of every individual that +composed it; in the scenery by which he was surrounded he would +carefully mark every object:--not a tree, not a bush, not a large +stone, escaped his observation; and it was said that in a cottage he +noted every piece of crockery on the shelf, every domestic utensil, and +even the number of knives and forks that were got ready for use at +dinner. His acquaintance with the Spanish language was marvellous; from +the finest works of Calderon to the ballads in the patois of every +province, he could quote, to the infinite delight of those with whom he +associated. He could assume any character that he pleased: he could be +the Castilian, haughty and reserved; the Asturian, stupid and plodding; +the Catalonian, intriguing and cunning; the Andalusian, laughing and +merry;--in short, he was all things to all men. Nor was he incapable +of passing off, when occasion required, for a Frenchman; but as he +spoke the language with a strong German accent, he called himself an +Alsatian. He maintained that character with the utmost nicety; and as +there is a strong feeling of fellowship, almost equal to that which +exists in Scotland, amongst all those who are born in the departments +of France bordering on the Rhine, and who maintain their Teutonic +originality, he always found friends and supporters in every regiment +in the French service. + +He was on one occasion entrusted with a very difficult mission by the +Duke of Wellington, which he undertook effectually to perform, and to +return on a particular day with the information that was required. + +Great was the disappointment when it was ascertained beyond a doubt +that just after leaving the camp he had been taken prisoner, before he +had time to exchange his uniform. Such, however, was the case: a troop +of dragoons had intercepted him, and carried him off; and the +commanding officer desired two soldiers to keep a strict watch over him +and carry him to head-quarters. He was of course disarmed, and being +placed on a horse, was, after a short time, galloped off by his guards. +He slept one night under durance vile at a small inn, where he was +allowed to remain in the kitchen; conversation flowed on very glibly, +and as he appeared a stupid Englishman, who could not understand a word +of French or Spanish, he was allowed to listen, and thus obtained +precisely the intelligence that he was in search of. The following +morning, being again mounted, he overheard a conversation between his +guards, who deliberately agreed to rob him, and to shoot him at a mill +where they were to stop, and to report to their officer that they had +been compelled to fire at him in consequence of his attempt to escape. + +Shortly before they arrived at the mill, for fear that they might meet +with some one who would insist on having a portion of the spoil, the +dragoons took from the prisoner his watch and his purse, which he +surrendered with a good grace. On their arrival at the mill, they +dismounted, and in order to give some appearance of truth to their +story, they went into the house; leaving their prisoner outside, in the +hope that he would make some attempt to escape. In an instant Waters +threw his cloak upon a neighbouring olive bush, and mounted his cocked +hat on the top. Some empty flour sacks lay upon the ground, and a horse +laden with well-filled flour sacks stood at the door. Sir John +contrived to enter one of the empty sacks and throw himself across the +horse. When the soldiers came out of the house they fired their +carbines at the supposed prisoner, and galloped off at their utmost +speed. + +A short time after the miller came out and mounted his steed; the +general contrived to rid himself of the encumbrance of the sack, and +sat up, riding behind the man, who, suddenly turning round, saw a +ghost, as he believed, for the flour that still remained in the sack +had completely whitened his fellow-traveller and given him a most +unearthly appearance. The frightened miller was "putrified," as Mrs. +Malaprop would say, at the sight, and a push from the white spectre +brought the unfortunate man to the ground, when away rode the gallant +quartermaster with his sacks of flour, which, at length bursting, made +a ludicrous spectacle of man and horse. + +On reaching the English camp, where Lord Wellington was anxiously +deploring his fate, a sudden shout from the soldiers made his lordship +turn round, when a figure, resembling the statue in "Don Juan," +galloped up to him. The duke, affectionately shaking him by the hand, +said-- + +"Waters, you never yet deceived me; and though you have come in a most +questionable shape, I must congratulate you and myself." + +When this story was told at the clubs, one of those listeners, who +always want something more, called out, "Well, and what did Waters +say?" to which Alvanley replied-- + +"Oh, Waters made a very flowery speech, like a well-bred man." + + + + +THE BATTLE OF THE NIVELLE + + +We expected to remain quietly in our winter quarters at St. Jean de +Luz; but, to our surprise, early one morning, we were aroused from +sleep by the beating of the drum calling us to arms. We were soon in +marching order. It appeared that our outposts had been severely pushed +by the French, and we were called upon to support our companions in +arms. + +The whole of the British army, as well as the division of the Guards, +had commenced a forward movement. Soult, seeing this, entirely changed +his tactics, and from that time, viz. the 9th of December, a series of +engagements took place. The fighting on the 9th was comparatively +insignificant. When we were attacked on the 10th, the Guards held the +mayor's house, and the grounds and orchards attached: this was an +important station. + +Large bodies of the enemy's infantry approached, and, after desultory +fighting, succeeded in penetrating our position, when many hand-to-hand +combats ensued. Towards the afternoon, officers and men having +displayed great gallantry, we drove the enemy from the ground which +they courageously disputed with us, and from which they eventually +retreated to Bayonne. Every day there was constant fighting along the +whole of our line, which extended from the sea to the lower Pyrenees--a +distance probably not less than thirty miles. + +On the 11th, we only exchanged a few shots, but on the 12th Soult +brought into action from fifteen to twenty thousand men, and attacked +our left with a view of breaking our line. One of the most remarkable +incidents of the 12th was the fact of an English battalion being +surrounded by a division of French in the neighbourhood of the mayor's +house--which, as before observed, was one of our principal strategical +positions. The French commanding officer, believing that no attempt +would be made to resist, galloped up to the officer of the British +regiment, and demanded his sword. Upon this, without the least +hesitation, the British officer shouted out, "This fellow wants us to +surrender: charge, my boys! and show them what stuff we are made of." +Instantaneously, a hearty cheer rang out, and our men rushed forward +impetuously, drove off the enemy at the point of the bayonet, and soon +disposed of the surrounding masses. In a few minutes they had taken +prisoners, or killed, the whole of the infantry regiment opposed to +them. + +On the 13th was fought the bloody battle of the Nivelle. Soult had +determined to make a gigantic effort to drive us back into Spain. +During the night of the 12th, he rapidly concentrated about sixty +thousand troops in front of Sir Rowland Hill's corps d'armee, +consisting of 15,000 men, who occupied a very strong position, which +was defended by some of the best artillery in the world. At daybreak +Sir Rowland Hill was astonished to find himself threatened by masses of +infantry advancing over a country luckily intersected by rivulets, +hedges, and woods, which prevented the enemy from making a rapid +advance; whilst, at the same time, it was impossible on such ground to +employ cavalry. Sir Rowland, availing himself of an elevated position, +hurriedly surveyed his ground, and concentrated his men at such points +as he knew the nature of the field would induce the enemy to attack. +The French, confident of success from their superior numbers, came +gallantly up, using the bayonet for the first time in a premeditated +attack; Our men stood their ground, and for hours acted purely on the +defensive; being sustained by the admirable practice of our artillery, +whose movements no difficulty of ground could, on this occasion, +impede, so efficiently were the guns horsed, and so perfect was the +training of the officers. It was not until mid-day that the enemy +became discouraged at finding that they were unable to make any serious +impression on our position; they then retired in good order, Sir +Rowland Hill not daring to follow them. + +Lord Wellington arrived just in time to witness the end of the battle; +and while going over the field with Sir Rowland Hill, he remarked that +he had never seen so many men hors de combat in so small a space. + +I must not omit to mention a circumstance which occurred during this +great fight, alike illustrative of cowardice and of courage. The +colonel of an infantry regiment, who shall be nameless, being hard +pressed, showed a disposition not only to run away himself, but to +order his regiment to retire. In fact, a retrograde movement had +commenced, when my gallant and dear friend Lord Charles Spencer, +aide-de-camp to Sir William Stewart, dashed forward, and, seizing the +colours of the regiment, exclaimed, "If your colonel will not lead you, +follow me, my boys." The gallantry of this youth, then only eighteen +years of age, so animated the regiment, and restored their confidence, +that they rallied and shared in the glory of the day. + + + + +THE PASSAGE OF THE ADOUR + + +Immediately after the battle of Nivelle, Lord Wellington determined to +advance his whole line on to French ground. The right, under his own +command, pushed on towards Orthes, whilst the left, under the command +of Sir John Hope, proceeded in the direction of Bayonne. We (the +Guards) were incorporated in the latter corps d'armee. + +Whilst these operations were going on, Soult was organizing his +discouraged army, in order to make, as early as possible, another +convenient stand. The enemy fell back on Orthes, and there took up a +strong position; Soult was, nevertheless, destined to be beaten again +at Orthes. It so happened that, for the first time since the battle of +Vittoria, our cavalry were engaged: the nature of the ground at Nive +and Nivelle was such as to prevent the possibility of employing the +mounted soldier. + +I must here record an incident which created a considerable sensation +in military circles in connection with the battle of Orthes. The 10th +Hussars, officered exclusively by men belonging to the noblest families +of Great Britain, showed a desire to take a more active part in the +contest than their colonel (Quintin) thought prudent. They pressed hard +to be permitted to charge the French cavalry on more than one occasion, +but in vain. This so disgusted every officer in the regiment, that +they eventually signed a round robin, by which they agreed never again +to speak to their colonel. When the regiment returned to England, a +court of inquiry was held, which resulted, through the protection of +the Prince Regent, in the colonel's exoneration from all blame, and at +the same time the exchange of the rebellious officers into other +regiments. + +It was at the battle of Orthes that the late Duke of Richmond was shot +through the body, gallantly fighting with the 7th Fusiliers. Lord +Wellington had determined to cross the Adour, and Sir John Hope was +intrusted with a corps d'armee, which was the first to perform this +difficult operation. It was necessary to provide Sir John Hope with a +number of small boats; these were accordingly brought on the backs of +mules from various Spanish ports, it being impossible, on account of +the surf at the entrance of the Adour, as well as the command which the +French held of that river, for Lord Wellington to avail himself of +water carriage. Soult had given orders for the forces under General +Thevenot to dispute the passage. + +The first operations of our corps were to throw over the 3rd Guards, +under the command of the gallant Colonel Stopford; this was not +accomplished without much difficulty: but it was imperatively +necessary, in order to protect the point where the construction of the +bridge of boats would terminate. They had not been long on the French +side of the river before a considerable body of men were seen issuing +from Bayonne. Sir John Hope ordered our artillery, and rockets, then +for the first time employed, to support our small band. Three or four +regiments of French infantry were approaching rapidly, when a +well-directed fire of rockets fell amongst them. The consternation of +the Frenchmen was such, when these hissing, serpent-like projectiles +descended, that a panic ensued, and they retreated upon Bayonne. The +next day the bridge of boats was completed, and the whole army crossed. +Bayonne was eventually invested after a contest, in which it was +supposed our loss exceeded 500 or 600 men. Here we remained in camp +about six weeks, expecting to besiege the citadel; but this event never +came off: we, however, met with a severe disaster and a reverse. The +enemy made an unexpected sortie, and surrounded General Sir John Hope, +when he and the whole of his staff were taken prisoners. The French +killed and wounded about 1,000 men on this occasion. + +The hardly-contested battle of Toulouse was fought about this period, +but the Guards were not present to share the honours of a contest which +closed the eventful war of the Spanish Peninsula. + + + + +ARRIVAL OF THE GUARDS AT BORDEAUX + + +When we reached Bordeaux, which had now become a stronghold of the +Royalists, we were received by the inhabitants with a welcome which +resembled what would be shown to friends and deliverers, rather than to +a foreign soldiery. Nothing could be more gratifying and more +acceptable to our feelings, since it was the first time after our +arrival on the Continent that we met with cordiality and an apparent +desire to make our quarters as comfortable as possible. The Duc +d'Angouleme had reached Bordeaux before us, and no doubt his presence +had prepared the way for all the friends of the Bourbons. Everywhere +some description of white rag was doing duty for a Royalist banner. I +lived at M. Devigne's, a rich wine-merchant who had a family of two +sons and two beautiful daughters; the latter were, as I thought, taken +remarkable care of by their maternal parent. Here I had evidently +fallen upon my legs, for not only was the family a most agreeable one, +but their hospitality was of the most generous kind. Sir Stapylton +Cotton was our frequent visitor, together with M. Martignac, afterwards +Minister of Charles the Tenth. + +Here I had an opportunity of meeting some of the prettiest women of a +city famed all over Europe for its female beauty. The young ladies +were remarkable for their taste in dress, which in those days consisted +of a mantilla a l'Espagnole, and silken shawls of varied hues, so +admirably blended, that the eye was charmed with their richness of +colour. The grisettes, who were as much admired by the soldiers as +were the high dames by the officers, were remarkable for a coquettish +species of apron of a red dye, which was only to be obtained from the +neighbourhood. + +Of course we were all very anxious to taste the Bordeaux wines; but our +palates, accustomed to the stronger vintages of Spain, I suspect were +not in a condition to appreciate the more delicate and refined bouquets +which ought to characterize claret. A vin ordinaire, which now at +restaurateur's would cost three francs, was then furnished at the +hotels for fifteen sous: a Larose, Lafitte, Margot, such as we are now +paying eight or ten francs a bottle for, did not cost a third. I must +not, however, forget that greater attention and care is now employed in +the preparation of French wines. The exportation to England of the +light red wines of France was not sufficiently profitable, as I learnt +from my host, at that time to attract the cupidity of commerce. + +In the Guards, Bordeaux was more affectionately remembered in connexion +with its women than its wine. We left it with regret, and the more +youthful and imaginative amongst us said that we were wafted across the +Channel by the gentle sighs of the girls we left behind us. + + + + +MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE + + +Our army, despite its defects, was nevertheless infinitely better +administered at home when I joined than it had been a few years before; +owing principally to the inquiry that had taken place in the House of +Commons, relative to the bribery and corruption which had crept in, and +which had been laid open by the confessions of a female, who created no +small sensation in those days, and who eventually terminated her +extraordinary career, not very long since, in Paris. + +The squibs fired off by Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke had a much greater +influence, and produced more effect upon the English army, than all the +artillery of the enemy directed against the Duke of York when +commanding in Holland. This lady was remarkable for her beauty and her +fascinations; and few came within the circle over which she presided +who did not acknowledge her superior power. Her wit, which kept the +House of Commons, during her examination, in a continued state of +merriment, was piquant and saucy. Her answers on that occasion have +been so often brought before the public, that I need not repeat them; +but, in private life, her quick repartee, and her brilliant sallies, +rendered her a lively, though not always an agreeable companion. As +for prudence, she had none; her dearest friend, if she had any, was +just as likely to be made the object of her ridicule as the most +obnoxious person of her acquaintance. + +Her narrative of her first introduction to the Duke of York has often +been repeated; but, as all her stories were considered apocryphal, it +is difficult to arrive at a real history of her career. Certain +however, is it that, about the age of sixteen, she was residing at +Blackheath--a sweet, pretty, lively girl--when, in her daily walk +across the heath, she was passed, on two or three occasions, by a +handsome, well-dressed cavalier, who, finding that she recognised his +salute, dismounted; pleased with her manner and wit, he begged to be +allowed to introduce a friend. Accordingly, on her consenting, a person +to whom the cavalier appeared to pay every sort of deference was +presented to her, and the acquaintance ripened into something more than +friendship. Not the slightest idea had the young lady of the position +in society of her lover, until she accompanied him, on his invitation, +to the theatre, where she occupied a private box, when she was +surprised at the ceremony with which she was treated, and at observing +that every eye and every lorgnette in the house were directed towards +her in the course of the evening. She accepted this as a tribute to her +beauty. Finding that she could go again to the theatre when she +pleased, and occupy the same box, she availed herself of this +opportunity with a female friend, and was not a little astonished at +being addressed as Her Royal Highness. She then discovered that the +individual into whose affections she had insinuated herself was the son +of the King, the Duke of York, who had not long before united himself +to a lady, for whom she had been mistaken. + +Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke was soon reconciled to the thought of being the +wife of a prince by the left hand, particularly as she found herself +assiduously courted by persons of the highest rank, and more especially +by military men. A large house in a fashionable street was taken for +her, and an establishment on a magnificent scale gave her an +opportunity of surrounding herself with persons of a sphere far beyond +anything she could in her younger days have dreamt of; her father +having been in an honourable trade, and her husband being only a +captain in a marching regiment. The duke, delighted to see his fair +friend so well received, constantly honoured her dinner-table with his +presence, and willingly gratified any wish that she expressed; and he +must have known (and for this he was afterwards highly censured) that +her style of living was upon a scale of great expense, and that he +himself contributed little towards it. The consequence was that the +hospitable lady eventually became embarrassed, and knew not which way +to turn to meet her outlay. It was suggested to her that she might +obtain from the duke commissions in the army, which she could easily +dispose of at a good price. Individuals quickly came forward, ready to +purchase anything that came within her grasp, which she extended not +only to the army, but, as it afterwards appeared, to the Church; for +there were reverend personages who availed themselves of her +assistance, and thus obtained patronage, by which they advanced their +worldly interests very rapidly. + + + + +MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE AND COL. WARDLE + + +Amongst those who paid great attention to Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke was +Colonel Wardle, at that time a remarkable member of the House of +Commons, and a bold leader of the Radical Opposition. He got +intimately acquainted with her, and was so great a personal favourite +that it was believed he wormed out all her secret history, of which he +availed himself to obtain a fleeting popularity. + +Having obtained the names of some of the parties who had been fortunate +enough, as they imagined, to secure the lady's favour, he loudly +demanded an inquiry in the House of Commons as to the management of the +army by the Commander-in-Chief, the Duke of York. The nation and the +army were fond of his Royal Highness, and every attempt to screen him +was made; but in vain. The House undertook the task of investigating +the conduct of the duke, and witnesses were produced, amongst whom was +the fair lady herself, who by no means attempted to screen her +imprudent admirer. Her responses to the questions put to her were +cleverly and archly given, and the whole mystery of her various +intrigues came to light. The duke consequently resigned his place in +the Horse Guards, and at the same time repudiated the beautiful and +dangerous cause of his humiliation. The lady, incensed at the +desertion of her royal swain, announced her intention of publishing his +love-letters, which were likely to expose the whole of the royal family +to ridicule, as they formed the frequent themes of his correspondence. +Sir Herbert Taylor was therefore commissioned to enter into a +negotiation for the purchase of the letters; this he effected at an +enormous price, obtaining a written document at the same time by which +Mrs. Clarke was subjected to heavy penalties if she, by word or deed, +implicated the honour of any of the branches of the royal family. A +pension was secured to her, on condition that she should quit England, +and reside wherever she chose on the Continent. To all this she +consented, and, in the first instance, went to Brussels, where her +previous history being scarcely known, she was well received; and she +married her daughters without any inquiry as to the fathers to whom she +might ascribe them. + +Mrs. Clarke afterwards settled quietly and comfortably in Paris, +receiving occasionally visits from members of the aristocracy who had +known her when mingling in a certain circle in London. The Marquis of +Londonderry never failed to pay his respects to her, entertaining a +very high opinion of her talents. Her manners were exceedingly +agreeable, and to the latest day she retained pleasing traces of past +beauty. She was lively, sprightly, and full of fun, and indulged in +innumerable anecdotes of the members of the royal family of +England--some of them much too scandalous to be repeated. She regarded +the Duke of York as a big baby, not out of his leading-strings, and the +Prince of Wales as an idle sensualist, with just enough of brains to be +guided by any laughing, well-bred individual who would listen to stale +jokes and impudent ribaldry. Of Queen Charlotte she used to speak with +the utmost disrespect, attributing to her a love of domination and a +hatred of every one who would not bow down before any idol that she +chose to set up; and as being envious of the Princess Caroline and her +daughter the Princess Charlotte of Wales, and jealous of their +acquiring too much influence over the Prince of Wales. In short, Mary +Anne Clarke had been so intimately let into every secret of the life of +the royal family that, had she not been tied down, her revelations +would have astonished the world, however willing the people might have +been to believe that they were tinged with scandal and exaggeration. + + +The way in which Colonel Wardle first obtained information of the sale +of commissions was singular enough: he was paying a clandestine visit +to Mrs. Clarke, when a carriage with the royal livery drove up to the +door, and the gallant officer was compelled to take refuge under the +sofa; but instead of the royal duke, there appeared one of his +aide-de-camps, who entered into conversation in so mysterious a manner +as to excite the attention of the gentleman under the sofa, and led him +to believe that the sale of a commission was authorised by the +Commander-in-Chief; though it afterwards appeared that it was a private +arrangement of the unwelcome visitor. At the Horse-Guards, it had +often been suspected that there was a mystery connected with +commissions that could not be fathomed; as it frequently happened that +the list of promotions agreed on was surreptitiously increased by the +addition of new names. This was the crafty handiwork of the +accomplished dame; the duke having employed her as his amanuensis, and +being accustomed to sign her autograph lists without examination. + + + + +SOCIETY IN LONDON IN 1814 + + +In the year 1814, my battalion of the Guards was once more in its old +quarters in Portman Street barracks, enjoying the fame of our Spanish +campaign. Good society at the period to which I refer was, to use a +familiar expression, wonderfully "select." At the present time one can +hardly conceive the importance which was attached to getting admission +to Almack's, the seventh heaven of the fashionable world. Of the three +hundred officers of the Foot Guards, not more than half a dozen were +honoured with vouchers of admission to this exclusive temple of the +beau monde; the gates of which were guarded by lady patronesses, whose +smiles or frowns consigned men and women to happiness or despair. These +lady patronesses were the Ladies Castlereagh, Jersey, Cowper, and +Sefton, Mrs. Drummond Burrell, now Lady Willoughby, the Princess +Esterhazy, and the Countess Lieven. + +The most popular amongst these grandes dames was unquestionably Lady +Cowper, now Lady Palmerston. Lady Jersey's bearing, on the contrary, +was that of a theatrical tragedy queen; and whilst attempting the +sublime, she frequently made herself simply ridiculous, being +inconceivably rude, and in her manner often ill-bred. Lady Sefton was +kind and amiable, Madame de Lieven haughty and exclusive, Princess +Esterhazy was a bon enfant, Lady Castlereagh and Mrs. Burrell de tres +grandes dames. + +Many diplomatic arts, much finesse, and a host of intrigues, were set +in motion to get an invitation to Almack's. Very often persons whose +rank and fortunes entitled them to the entree anywhere, were excluded +by the cliqueism of the lady patronesses; for the female government of +Almack's was a pure despotism, and subject to all the caprices of +despotic rule: it is needless to add that, like every other despotism, +it was not innocent of abuses. The fair ladies who ruled supreme over +this little dancing and gossiping world, issued a solemn proclamation +that no gentleman should appear at the assemblies without being dressed +in knee-breeches, white cravat, and chapeau bras. On one occasion, the +Duke of Wellington was about to ascend the staircase of the ball-room, +dressed in black trousers, when the vigilant Mr. Willis, the guardian +of the establishment, stepped forward and said, "Your Grace cannot be +admitted in trousers," whereupon the Duke, who had a great respect for +orders and regulations, quietly walked away. + +In 1814, the dances at Almack's were Scotch reels and the old English +country-dance; and the orchestra, being from Edinburgh, was conducted +by the then celebrated Neil Gow. It was not until 1815 that Lady +Jersey introduced from Paris the favourite quadrille, which has so long +remained popular. I recollect the persons who formed the very first +quadrille that was ever danced at Almack's: they were Lady Jersey, Lady +Harriet Butler, Lady Susan Ryder, and Miss Montgomery; the men being +the Count St. Aldegonde, Mr. Montgomery, Mr. Montague, and Charles +Standish. The "mazy waltz" was also brought to us about this time; but +there were comparatively few who at first ventured to whirl round the +salons of Almack's; in course of time Lord Palmerston might, however, +have been seen describing an infinite number of circles with Madame de +Lieven. Baron de Neumann was frequently seen perpetually turning with +the Princess Esterhazy; and, in course of time, the waltzing mania, +having turned the heads of society generally, descended to their feet, +and the waltz was practised in the morning in certain noble mansions in +London with unparalleled assiduity. + +The dandies of society were Beau Brummell (of whom I shall have to say +something on another occasion), the Duke of Argyle, the Lords +Worcester, Alvanley, and Foley, Henry Pierrepoint, John Mills, +Bradshaw, Henry de Ros, Charles Standish, Edward Montagu, Hervey Aston, +Dan Mackinnon, George Dawson Damer, Lloyd (commonly known as Rufus +Lloyd), and others who have escaped my memory. They were great +frequenters of White's Club, in St. James's Street, where, in the +famous bay window, they mustered in force. + +Drinking and play were more universally indulged in then than at the +present time, and many men still living must remember the couple of +bottles of port at least which accompanied his dinner in those days. +Indeed, female society amongst the upper classes was most notoriously +neglected; except, perhaps, by romantic foreigners, who were the heroes +of many at fashionable adventure that fed the clubs with ever +acceptable scandal. How could it be otherwise, when husbands spent +their days in the hunting-field, or were entirely occupied with +politics, and always away from home during the day; whilst the +dinner-party, commencing at seven or eight, frequently did not break up +before one in the morning. There were then four-, and even five-bottle +men; and the only thing that saved them was drinking very slowly, and +out of very small glasses. The learned head of the law, Lord Eldon, and +his brother, Lord Stowell, used to say that they had drunk more bad +port than any two men in England; indeed, the former was rather apt to +be overtaken, and to speak occasionally somewhat thicker than natural, +after long and heavy potations. The late Lords Panmure, Dufferin, and +Blayney, wonderful to relate, were six-bottle men at this time; and I +really think that if the good society of 1815 could appear before their +more moderate descendants in the state they were generally reduced to +after dinner, the moderns would pronounce their ancestors fit for +nothing but bed. + + + + +THE ITALIAN OPERA.--CATALANI + + +The greatest vocalist of whom I have a recollection, is Madame +Catalani. In her youth, she was the finest singer in Europe, and she +was much sought after by all the great people during her sejour in +London. She was extremely handsome, and was considered a model as wife +and mother. Catalani was very fond of money, and would never sing +unless paid beforehand. She was invited, with her husband, to pass some +time at Stowe, where a numerous but select party had been invited; and +Madame Catalani, being asked to sing soon after dinner, willingly +complied. When the day of her departure came, her husband placed in the +hands of the Marquis of Buckingham the following little billet:--"For +seventeen songs, seventeen hundred pounds." This large sum was paid at +once, without hesitation; proving that Lord Buckingham was a refined +gentleman, in every sense of the word. + +Catalani's husband, M. de Valabreque, once fought a duel with a German +baron who had insulted the prima donna; the weapons used were sabres, +and Valabreque cut half of the Baron's nose clean off. Madame Catalani +lived for many years, highly respected, at a handsome villa near +Florence. Her two sons are now distinguished members of the Imperial +court in Paris; the eldest being Prefet du Palais, and the youngest +colonel of a regiment of hussars. + +When George the Fourth was Regent, Her Majesty's Theatre, as the +Italian Opera in the Haymarket is still called, was conducted on a very +different system from that which now prevails. Some years previous to +the period to which I refer, no one could obtain a box or a ticket for +the pit without a voucher from one of the lady patronesses; who, in +1805, were the Duchesses of Marlborough, Devonshire, and Bedford, Lady +Carlisle, and some others. In their day, after, the singing and the +ballet were over, the company used to retire into the concert-room, +where a ball took place, accompanied by refreshments and a supper. +There all the rank and fashion of England were assembled on a sort of +neutral ground. At a later period, the management of the Opera House +fell into the hands of Mr. Waters, when it became less difficult to +obtain admittance; but the strictest etiquette was still kept up as +regarded the dress of the gentlemen, who were only admitted with +knee-buckles, ruffles, and chapeau bras. If there happened to be a +drawing-room, the ladies would appear in their court-dresses, as well +as the gentlemen, and on all occasions the audience of Her Majesty's +Theatre was stamped with aristocratic elegance. In the boxes of the +first tier might have been seen the daughters of the Duchess of Argyle, +four of England's beauties; in the next box were the equally lovely +Marchioness of Stafford and her daughter, Lady Elizabeth Gore, now the +Duchess of Norfolk: not less remarkable was Lady Harrowby and her +daughters Lady Susan and Lady Mary Ryder. The peculiar type of female +beauty which these ladies so attractively exemplified, is such as can +be met with only in the British Isles: the full, round, soul-inspired +eye of Italy, and the dark hair of the sunny south, often combined with +that exquisitely pearly complexion which seems to be concomitant with +humidity and fog. You could scarcely gaze upon the peculiar beauty to +which I refer without being as much charmed with its kindly expression +as with its physical loveliness. + + + + +DINING AND COOKERY IN ENGLAND FIFTY YEARS AGO + + +England can boast of a Spenser, Shakspeare, Milton, and many other +illustrious poets, clearly indicating that the national character of +Britons is not deficient in imagination; but we have not had one single +masculine inventive genius of the kitchen. It is the probable result +of our national antipathy to mysterious culinary compounds, that none +of the bright minds of England have ventured into the region of +scientific cookery. Even in the best houses, when I was a young man, +the dinners were wonderfully solid, hot and stimulating. The menu of a +grand dinner was thus composed:--Mulligatawny and turtle soups were the +first dishes placed before you; a little lower, the eye met with the +familiar salmon at one end of the table, and the turbot, surrounded by +smelts, at the other. The first course was sure to be followed by a +saddle of mutton or a piece of roast beef; and then you could take your +oath that fowls, tongue, and ham, would as assuredly succeed as +darkness after day. + +Whilst these never ending pieces de resistance were occupying the +table, what were called French dishes were, for custom's sake, added to +the solid abundance. The French, or side dishes, consisted of very +mild but very abortive attempts at Continental cooking, and I have +always observed that they met with the neglect and contempt that they +merited. The universally adored and ever popular boiled potato, +produced at the very earliest period of the dinner, was eaten with +everything, up to the moment when sweets appeared. Our vegetables, the +best in the world, were never honoured by an accompanying sauce, and +generally came to the table cold. A prime difficulty to overcome was +the placing on your fork, and finally in your mouth, some half-dozen +different eatables which occupied your plate at the same time. For +example, your plate would contain, say, a slice of turkey, a piece of +stuffing, a sausage, pickles, a slice of tongue, cauliflower, and +potatoes. According to habit and custom, a judicious and careful +selection from this little bazaar of good things was to be made, with +an endeavour to place a portion of each in your mouth at the same +moment. In fact, it appeared to me that we used to do all our compound +cookery between our jaws. The dessert--generally ordered at Messrs. +Grange's, or at Owen's, in Bond Street--if for a dozen people, would +cost at least as many pounds. The wines were chiefly port, sherry, and +hock; claret, and even Burgundy, being then designated "poor, thin, +washy stuff." A perpetual thirst seemed to come over people, both men +and women, as soon as they had tasted their soup; as from that moment +everybody was taking wine with everybody else till the close of the +dinner; and such wine as produced that class of cordiality which +frequently wanders into stupefaction. How all this sort of eating and +drinking ended was obvious, from the prevalence of gout, and the +necessity of everyone making the pill-box their constant bedroom +companion. + + + + +THE PRINCE REGENT + + +When the eldest son of George the Third assumed the Regency, England +was in a state of political transition. The convulsions of the +Continent were felt amongst us; the very foundations of European +society were shaking, and the social relations of men were rapidly +changing. The Regent's natural leanings were towards the Tories; +therefore as soon as he undertook the responsibility of power, he +abruptly abandoned the Whigs and retained in office the admirers and +partisans of his father's policy. This resolution caused him to have +innumerable and inveterate enemies, who never lost an opportunity of +attacking his public acts and interfering with his domestic relations. + +The Regent was singularly imbued with petty royal pride. He would +rather be amiable and familiar with his tailor than agreeable and +friendly with the most illustrious of the aristocracy of Great Britain; +he would rather joke with a Brummell than admit to his confidence a +Norfolk or a Somerset. The Regent was always particularly well-bred in +public, and showed, if he chose, decidedly good manners; but he was in +the habit very often of addressing himself in preference to those whom +he felt he could patronise. His Royal Highness was as much the victim +of circumstances and the child of thoughtless imprudence as the most +humble subject of the crown. His unfortunate marriage with a Princess +of Brunswick originated in his debts; as he married that unhappy lady +for one million sterling, William Pitt being the contractor! The +Princess of Wales married nothing but an association with the Crown of +England. If the Prince ever seriously loved any woman, it was Mrs. +Fitzherbert, with whom he had appeared at the altar. + +Public opinion in England, under the inspiration of the Whigs, raised a +cry of indignation against the Prince. It was imagined, I presume, +that royal personage should be born without heart or feeling; that he +should have been able to live only for the good of the State and for +the convenience of his creditors. The Princess of Wales was one of the +most unattractive and almost repulsive women for an elegant-minded man +that could well have been found amongst German royalty. It is not my +intention to recall the events of the Regency. It is well known that +the Prince became eventually so unpopular as to exclude himself as much +as possible from public gaze. His intimate companions, after the trial +of Queen Caroline, were Lords Cunningham and Fife, Sir Benjamin +Bloomfield, Sir William Macmahon, Admiral Nagle, Sir A. Barnard, Lords +Glenlyon, Hertford, and Lowther. These gentlemen generally dined with +him; the dinner being the artistic product of that famous gastronomic +savant, Wattiers. The Prince was very fond of listening after dinner +to the gossip of society. When he became George the Fourth, no change +took place in these personnels at the banquet, excepting that with the +fruits and flowers of the table was introduced the beautiful +Marchioness of Conyngham, whose brilliant wit, according to the +estimation of his Majesty, surpassed that of any other of his friends, +male or female. + + + + +PRINCESS CHARLOTTE OF WALES AT A FETE IN THE YEAR 1813, AT CARLTON HOUSE + + +Carlton House, at the period to which I refer, was a centre for all the +great politicians and wits who were the favorites of the Regent. The +principal entrance of this palace in Pall Mall, with its screen of +columns, will be remembered by many. In the rear of the mansion was an +extensive garden that reached from Warwick Street to Marlborough House; +green sward, stately trees, (probably two hundred years old), and beds +of the choicest flowers, gave to the grounds a picturesque attraction +perhaps unequalled. It was here that the heir to the throne of England +gave, in 1813, an open-air fete, in honour of the battle of Vittoria. +About three o'clock P.M. the elite of London society, who had been +honoured with an invitation, began to arrive--all in full dress; the +ladies particularly displaying their diamonds and pearls, as if they +were going to a drawing-room. The men were, of course, in full dress, +wearing knee-buckles. The regal circle was composed of the Queen, the +Regent, the Princess Sophia and Mary, the Princess Charlotte, the Dukes +of York, Clarence, Cumberland, and Cambridge. + +This was the first day that her Royal Highness the Princess Charlotte +appeared in public. She was a young lady of more than ordinary +personal attractions; her features were regular, and her complexion +fair, with the rich bloom of youthful beauty; her eyes were blue and +very expressive, and her hair was abundant, and of that peculiar light +brown which merges into the golden: in fact, such hair as the +Middle-Age Italian painters associate with their conceptions of the +Madonna. In figure her Royal Highness was somewhat over the ordinary +height of women, but finely proportioned and well developed. Her +manners were remarkable for a simplicity and good-nature which would +have won admiration and invited affection in the most humble walks of +life. She created universal admiration, and I may say a feeling of +national pride, amongst all who attended the ball. The Prince Regent +entered the gardens giving his arm to the Queen, the rest of the royal +family following. Tents had been erected in various parts of the +grounds, where the bands of the Guards were stationed. The weather was +magnificent, a circumstance which contributed to show off the admirable +arrangements of Sir Benjamin Bloomfield, to whom had been deputed the +organization of the fete, which commenced by dancing on the lawn. + +The Princess Charlotte honoured with her presence two dances. In the +first she accepted the hand of the late Duke of Devonshire, and in the +second that of the Earl of Aboyne, who had danced with Marie +Antoinette, and who, as Lord Huntley, lived long enough to dance with +Queen Victoria. The Princess entered so much into the spirit of the +fete as to ask for the then fashionable Scotch dances. The Prince was +dressed in the Windsor uniform, and wore the garter and star. He made +himself very amiable, and conversed much with the Ladies Hertford, +Cholmondeley, and Montford. Altogether, the fete was a memorable event. + +A year afterwards, the Duke of York said to his royal niece, "Tell me, +my dear, have you seen anyone among the foreign princes whom you would +like to have for a husband?" The Princess naively replied, "No one so +much prepossesses me as Prince Leopold of Coburg. I have heard much of +his bravery in the field, and I must say he is personally agreeable to +me. I have particularly heard of his famous cavalry charge at the +battle of Leipsic, where he took several thousand prisoners, for which +he was rewarded with the Order of Maria Therese." In a few months +afterwards she became the wife of the man whom she so much admired, and +from whom she was torn away not long after by the cruel hand of death. +It will be remembered that she died in childbirth, and her offspring +expired at the same time. The accoucheur who attended her was so much +affected by the calamity, that he committed suicide some short time +afterwards. + + + + +BEAU BRUMMELL + + +Amongst the curious freaks of fortune there is none more remarkable in +my memory than the sudden appearance, in the highest and best society +in London, of a young man whose antecedents warranted a much less +conspicuous career: I refer to the famous Beau Brummell. We have +innumerable instances of soldiers, lawyers, and men of letters, +elevating themselves from the most humble stations, and becoming the +companions of princes and lawgivers; but there are comparatively few +examples of men obtaining a similarly elevated position simply from +their attractive personal appearance and fascinating manners. +Brummell's father, who was a steward to one or two large estates, sent +his son George to Eton. He was endowed with a handsome person, and +distinguished himself at Eton as the best scholar, the best boatman, +and the best cricketer; and, more than all, he was supposed to possess +the comprehensive excellences that are represented by the familiar term +of "good fellow." He made many friends amongst the scions of good +families, by whom he was considered a sort of Crichton; and his +reputation reached a circle over which reigned the celebrated Duchess +of Devonshire. At a grand ball given by her Grace, George Brummell, +then quite a youth, appeared for the first time in such elevated +society. He immediately became a great favourite with the ladies, and +was asked by all the dowagers to as many balls and soirees as he could +attend. + +At last the Prince of Wales sent for Brummell, and was so much pleased +with his manner and appearance, that he gave him a commission in his +own regiment, the 10th Hussars. Unluckily, Brummell, soon after +joining his regiment, was thrown from his horse at a grand review at +Brighton, when he broke his classical Roman nose. This misfortune, +however, did not affect the fame of the beau; and although his nasal +organ had undergone a slight transformation, it was forgiven by his +admirers, since the rest of his person remained intact. When we are +prepossessed by the attractions of a favourite, it is not a trifle that +will dispel the illusion; and Brummell continued to govern society, in +conjunction with the Prince of Wales. He was remarkable for his dress, +which was generally conceived by himself; the execution of his sublime +imagination being carried out by that superior genius, Mr. Weston, +tailor, of Old Bond Street. The Regent sympathised deeply with +Brummell's labours to arrive at the most attractive and gentlemanly +mode of dressing the male form, at a period when fashion had placed at +the disposal of the tailor the most hideous material that could +possibly tax his art. The coat may have a long tail or a short tail, a +high collar or a low collar, but it will always be an ugly garment. +The modern hat may be spread out at the top, or narrowed, whilst the +brim may be turned up or turned down, made a little wider or a little +more narrow, still it is inconceivably hideous. Pantaloons and Hessian +boots were the least objectionable features of the costume which the +imagination of a Brummell and the genius of a Royal Prince were called +upon to modify or change. The hours of meditative agony which each +dedicated to the odious fashions of the day have left no monument save +the coloured caricatures in which these illustrious persons have +appeared. + +Brummell, at this time, besides being the companion and friend of the +Prince, was very intimate with the Dukes of Rutland, Dorset, and +Argyll, Lords Sefton, Alvanley, and Plymouth. In the zenith of his +popularity he might be seen at the bay window of White's Club, +surrounded by the lions of the day, laying down the law, and +occasionally indulging in those witty remarks for which he was famous. +His house in Chapel Street corresponded with his personal "get up"; the +furniture was in excellent taste, and the library contained the best +works of the best authors of every period and of every country. His +canes, his snuff-boxes, his Sevres china, were exquisite; his horses +and carriage were conspicuous for their excellence; and, in fact, the +superior taste of a Brummell was discoverable in everything that +belonged to him. + +But the reign of the king of fashion, like all other reigns, was not +destined to continue for ever. Brummell warmly espoused the cause of +Mrs. Fitzherbert, and this of course offended the Prince of Wales. I +refer to the period when his Royal Highness had abandoned that +beautiful woman for another favourite. A coldness sprang up between +the Prince and his protege, and finally, the mirror of fashion was +excluded from the royal presence. A curious accident brought Brummell +again to the dinner-table of his royal patron; he was asked one night +at White's to take a hand at whist, when he won from George Harley +Drummond 20,000L. This circumstance having been related by the Duke of +York to the Prince of Wales, the beau was again invited to Carlton +House. At the commencement of the dinner, matters went off smoothly; +but Brummell, in his joy at finding himself with his old friend, became +excited, and drank too much wine. His Royal Highness--who wanted to +pay off Brummell for an insult he had received at Lady Cholmondeley's +ball, when the beau, turning towards the Prince, said to Lady +Worcester, "Who is your fat friend?"--had invited him to dinner merely +out of a desire for revenge. The Prince therefore pretended to be +affronted with Brummell's hilarity, and said to his brother, the Duke +of York, who was present, "I think we had better order Mr. Brummell's +carriage before he gets drunk." Whereupon he rang the bell, and +Brummell left the royal presence. This circumstance originated the +story about the beau having told the Prince to ring the bell. I +received these details from the late General Sir Arthur Upton, who was +present at the dinner. The latter days of Brummell were clouded with +mortifications and penury. He retired to Calais, where he kept up a +ludicrous imitation of his past habits. At least he got himself named +consul at Caen; but he afterwards lost the appointment, and eventually +died insane, and in abject poverty, either at Boulogne or Calais. + + + + +ROMEO COATES + + +This singular man, more than forty years ago, occupied a large portion +of public attention; his eccentricities were the theme of general +wonder, and great was the curiosity to catch a glance at as strange a +being as any that ever appeared in English society. This extraordinary +individual was a native of one of the West India Islands, and was +represented as a man of extraordinary wealth; to which, however, he had +no claim. + +About the year 1808 there arrived at the York Hotel, at Bath, a person +about the age of fifty, somewhat gentlemanlike, but so different from +the usual men of the day that considerable attention was directed to +him. He was of a good figure; but his face was sallow, seamed with +wrinkles, and more expressive of cunning than of any other quality. His +dress was remarkable: in the day-time he was covered at all seasons +with enormous quantities of fur; but the evening costume in which he +went to the balls made a great impression, from its gaudy appearance; +for his buttons as well as his knee-buckles were of diamonds. There was +of course great curiosity to know who this stranger was; and this +curiosity was heightened by an announcement that he proposed to appear +at the theatre in the character of Romeo. There was something so +unlike the impassioned lover in his appearance--so much that indicated +a man with few intellectual gifts--that everybody was prepared for a +failure. No one, however, anticipated the reality. + +On the night fixed for his appearance the house was crowded to +suffocation. The playbills had given out that "an amateur of fashion" +would for that night only perform in the character of Romeo; besides, +it was generally whispered that the rehearsals gave indication of +comedy rather than tragedy, and that his readings were of a perfectly +novel character. + +The very first appearance of Romeo convulsed the house with laughter. +Benvolio prepares the audience for the stealthy visit of the lover to +the object of his admiration; and fully did the amateur give the +expression to one sense of the words uttered, for he was indeed the +true representative of a thief stealing onwards in the night, "with +Tarquin's ravishing strides," and disguising his face as if he were +thoroughly ashamed of it. The darkness of the scene did not, however, +show his real character so much as the masquerade, when he came forward +with hideous grin, and made what he considered his bow,--which +consisted in thrusting his head forward and bobbing it up and down +several times, his body remaining perfectly upright and stiff, like a +toy mandarin with moveable head. + +His dress was outre in the extreme: whether Spanish, Italian, or +English, no one could say; it was like nothing ever worn. In a cloak +of sky-blue silk, profusely spangled, red pantaloons, a vest of white +muslin, surmounted by an enormously thick cravat, and a wig a la +Charles the Second, capped by an opera hat, he presented one of the +most grotesque spectacles ever witnessed upon the stage. The whole of +his garments were evidently too tight for him; and his movements +appeared so incongruous, that every time he raised his arm, or moved a +limb, it was impossible to refrain from laughter: but what chiefly +convulsed the audience was the bursting of a seam in an inexpressible +part of his dress, and the sudden extrusion through the red rent of a +quantity of white linen sufficient to make a Bourbon flag, which was +visible whenever he turned round. This was at first supposed to be a +wilful offence against common decency, and some disapprobation was +evinced; but the utter unconsciousness of the odd creature was soon +apparent, and then urestrained mirth reigned throughout the boxes, pit, +and gallery. The total want of flexibility of limb, the awkwardness of +his gait, and the idiotic manner in which he stood still, all produced +a most ludicrous effect; but when his guttural voice was heard, and his +total misapprehension of every passage in the play, especially the +vulgarity of his address to Juliet, were perceived, everyone was +satisfied that Shakspeare's Romeo was burlesqued on that occasion. + +The balcony scene was interrupted by shrieks of laughter, for in the +midst of one of Juliet's impassioned exclamations, Romeo quietly took +out his snuff-box and applied a pinch to his nose; on this a wag in the +gallery bawled out, "I say, Romeo, give us a pinch," when the +impassioned lover, in the most affected manner, walked to the side +boxes and offered the contents of his box first to the gentlemen, and +then, with great gallantry, to the ladies. This new interpretation of +Shakspeare was hailed with loud bravos, which the actor acknowledged +with his usual grin and nod. Romeo then returned to the balcony, and +was seen to extend his arms; but all passed in dumb show, so incessant +were the shouts of laughter. All that went on upon the stage was for a +time quite inaudible, but previous to the soliloquy "I do remember an +apothecary," there was for a moment a dead silence; for in rushed the +hero with a precipitate step until he reached the stage lamps, when he +commenced his speech in the lowest possible whisper, as if he had +something to communicate to the pit that ought not to be generally +known; and this tone was kept up throughout the whole of the soliloquy, +so that not a sound could be heard. + +The amateur actor showed many indications of aberration of mind, and +seemed rather the object of pity than of amusement; he, however, +appeared delighted with himself, and also with his audience, for at the +conclusion he walked first to the left of the stage and bobbed his head +in his usual grotesque manner at the side boxes; then to the right, +performing the same feat; after which, going to the centre of the stage +with the usual bob, and placing his hand upon his left breast, he +exclaimed, "Haven't I done it well?" To this inquiry the house, +convulsed as it was with shouts of laughter, responded in such a way as +delighted the heart of Kean on one great occasion, when he said, "The +pit rose at me." The whole audience started up as if with one accord, +giving a yell of derision, whilst pocket-handkerchiefs waved from all +parts of the theatre. + +The dying scene was irresistibly comic, and I question if Liston, +Munden, or Joey Knight, was ever greeted with such merriment; for Romeo +dragged the unfortunate Juliet from the tomb, much in the same manner +as a washerwoman thrusts into her cart the bag of foul linen. But how +shall I describe his death? Out came a dirty silk handkerchief from +his pocket, with which he carefully swept the ground; then his opera +hat was carefully placed for a pillow, and down he laid himself. After +various tossings about he seemed reconciled to the position; but the +house vociferously bawled out, "Die again, Romeo!" and, obedient to +the command, he rose up, and went through the ceremony again. Scarcely +had he lain quietly down, when the call was again heard, and the +well-pleased amateur was evidently prepared to enact a third death; but +Juliet now rose up from her tomb, and gracefully put an end to this +ludicrous scene by advancing to the front of the stage and aptly +applying a quotation from Shakspeare:-- + + "Dying is such sweet sorrow, + That he will die again until to-morrow." + +Thus ended an extravaganza such as has seldom been witnessed; for +although Coates repeated the play at the Haymarket, amidst shouts of +laughter from the playgoers, there never was so ludicrous a performance +as that which took place at Bath on the first night of his appearance. +Eventually he was driven from the stage with much contumely, in +consequence of its having been discovered that, under pretence of +acting for a charitable purpose, he had obtained a sum of money for his +performances. His love of notoriety led him to have a most singular +shell-shaped carriage built, in which, drawn by two fine white horses, +he was wont to parade in the park; the harness, and every available +part of the vehicle (which was really handsome) were blazoned over with +his heraldic device--a cock crowing, and his appearance was heralded by +the gamins of London shrieking out "cock-a-doodle-doo." Coates +eventually quitted London and settled at Boulogne, where a fair lady +was induced to become the partner of his existence, notwithstanding the +ridicule of the whole world. + + + + +HYDE PARK AFTER THE PENINSULAR WAR + + +That extensive district of park land, the entrances of which are in +Piccadilly and Oxford Street, was far more rural in appearance in 1815 +than at the present day. Under the trees cows and deer were grazing; +the paths were fewer and none told of that perpetual tread of human +feet which now destroys all idea of country charms and illusions. As +you gazed from an eminence, no rows of monotonous houses reminded you +of the vicinity of a large city, and the atmosphere of Hyde Park was +then much more like what God has made it than the hazy, gray, +coal-darkened half-twilight of the London of to-day. The company which +then congregated daily about five, was composed of dandies and women in +the best society; the men mounted on such horses as England alone could +then produce. The dandy's dress consisted of a blue coat with brass +buttons, leather breeches, and top boots; and it was the fashion to +wear a deep, stiff white cravat, which prevented you from seeing your +boots while standing. All the world watched Brummell to imitate him, +and order their clothes of the tradesman who dressed that sublime +dandy. One day a youthful beau approached Brummell and said, "Permit +me to ask you where you get your blacking?" "Ah!" replied Brummell, +gazing complacently at his boots, "my blacking positively ruins me. I +will tell you in confidence; it is made with the finest champagne!" + +Many of the ladies used to drive into the park in a carriage called a +vis-a-vis, which held only two persons. The hammer-cloth, rich in +heraldic designs, the powdered footmen in smart liveries, and a +coachman who assumed all the gaiety and appearance of a wigged +archbishop, were indispensable. The equipages were generally much more +gorgeous than at a later period, when democracy invaded the parks, and +introduced what may be termed a "brummagem society," with +shabby-genteel carriages and servants. The carriage company consisted +of the most celebrated beauties, amongst whom were remarked the +Duchesses of Rutland, Argyle, Gordon, and Bedford, Ladies Cowper, +Foley, Heathcote, Louisa Lambton, Hertford, and Mountjoy. The most +conspicuous horsemen were the Prince Regent (accompanied by Sir +Benjamin Bloomfield); the Duke of York and his old friend, Warwick +Lake; the Duke of Dorset, on his white horse; the Marquis of Anglesea, +with his lovely daughters; Lord Harrowby and the Ladies Ryder; the Earl +of Sefton and the Ladies Molyneux; and the eccentric Earl of Moreton on +his long-tailed grey. In those days "pretty horsebreakers" would not +have dared to show themselves in Hyde Park; nor did you see any of the +lower or middle classes of London intruding themselves in regions +which, with a sort of tacit understanding, were then given up +exclusively to persons of rank and fashion. + + + + +LONDON HOTELS IN 1814 + + +There was a class of men, of very high rank, such as Lords Wellington, +Nelson, and Collingwood, Sir John Moore and some few others who never +frequented the clubs. The persons to whom I refer, and amongst whom +were many members of the sporting world, used to congregate at a few +hotels. The Clarendon, Limmer's, Ibbetson's, Fladong's, Stephens', and +Grillon's, were the fashionable hotels. The Clarendon was then kept by +a French cook, Jacquiers, who contrived to amass a large sum of money +in the service of Louis the Eighteenth in England, and subsequently +with Lord Darnley. This was the only public hotel where you could get +a genuine French dinner, and for which you seldom paid less than three +or four pounds; your bottle of champagne or of claret, in the year +1814, costing you a guinea. + +Limmer's was an evening resort for the sporting world; in fact, it was +a midnight Tattersal's, where you heard nothing but the language of the +turf, and where men with not very clean hands used to make up their +books. Limmer's was the most dirty hotel in London; but in the gloomy, +comfortless coffee-room might be seen many members of the rich +squirearchy, who visited London during the sporting season. This hotel +was frequently so crowded that a bed could not be obtained for any +amount of money; but you could always get a very good plain English +dinner, an excellent bottle of port, and some famous gin-punch. +Ibbetson's hotel was chiefly patronized by the clergy and young men +from the universities. The charges there were more economical than at +similar establishments. Fladong's, in Oxford Street, was chiefly +frequented by naval men; for in those days there was no club for +sailors. Stephens', in Bond Street, was a fashionable hotel, supported +by officers of the army and men about town. If a stranger asked to +dine there, he was stared at by the servants, and very solemnly assured +that there was no table vacant. It was not an uncommon thing to see +thirty or forty saddle-horses and tilburys waiting outside this hotel. +I recollect two of my old Welsh friends, who used each of them to +dispose of five bottles of wine daily, residing here in 1815, when the +familiar joints, boiled fish and fried soles, were the only eatables +you could order. + + + + +THE CLUBS OF LONDON IN 1814 + + +The members of the clubs in London, many years since, were persons, +almost without exception, belonging exclusively to the aristocratic +world. "My tradesmen," as King Allen used to call the bankers and the +merchants, had not then invaded White's, Boodle's, Brookes', or +Wattiers', in Bolton Street, Piccadilly; which, with the Guards, +Arthur's, and Graham's, were the only clubs at the West End of the +town. White's was decidedly the most difficult of entry; its list of +members comprised nearly all the noble names of Great Britain. + +The politics of White's club were then decidedly Tory. It was here +that play was carried on to an extent which made many ravages in large +fortunes, the traces of which have not disappeared at the present day. +General Scott, the father-in-law of George Canning and the Duke of +Portland, was known to have won at White's 200,000L.; thanks to his +notorious sobriety and knowledge of the game of whist. The General +possessed a great advantage over his companions by avoiding those +indulgences at the table which used to muddle other men's brains. He +confined himself to dining off something like a boiled chicken, with +toast-and-water; by such a regimen he came to the whist-table with a +clear head, and possessing as he did a remarkable memory, with great +coolness and judgment, he was able honestly to win the enormous sum of +200,000L. At Brookes', for nearly half a century, the play was of a +more gambling character than at White's. Faro and macao were indulged +in to an extent which enabled a man to win or to lose a considerable +fortune in one night. It was here that Charles James Fox, Selwyn, Lord +Carlisle, Lord Robert Spencer, General Fitzpatrick, and other great +Whigs, won and lost hundreds of thousands; frequently remaining at the +table for many hours without rising. + +On one occasion, Lord Robert Spencer contrived to lose the last +shilling of his considerable fortune, given him by his brother, the +Duke of Marlborough; General Fitzpatrick being much in the same +condition, they agreed to raise a sum of money, in order that they +might keep a faro bank. The members of the club made no objection, and +ere long they carried out their design. As is generally the case, the +bank was a winner, and Lord Robert bagged, as his share of the +proceeds, 100,000L. He retired, strange to say, from the foetid +atmosphere of play, with the money in his pocket, and never again +gambled. George Harley Drummond, of the famous banking-house, Charing +Cross, only played once in his whole life at White's Club at whist, on +which occasion he lost 20,000L. to Brummell. This event caused him to +retire from the banking-house of which he was a partner. + +Lord Carlisle was one of the most remarkable victims amongst the +players at Brookes', and Charles Fox, his friend, was not more +fortunate, being subsequently always in pecuniary difficulties. Many a +time, after a long night of hard play, the loser found himself at the +Israelitish establishment of Howard and Gibbs, then the fashionable and +patronized money-lenders. These gentlemen never failed to make hard +terms with the borrower, although ample security was invariably +demanded. + +The Guards' Club was established for the three regiments of Foot +Guards, and was conducted upon a military system. Billiards and low +whist were the only games indulged in. The dinner was, perhaps, better +than at most clubs, and considerably cheaper. I had the honour of +being a member for several years, during which time I have nothing to +remember but the most agreeable incidents. Arthur's and Graham's were +less aristocratic than those I have mentioned; it was at the latter, +thirty years ago, that a most painful circumstance took place. A +nobleman of the highest position and influence in society was detected +in cheating at cards, and after a trial, which did not terminate in his +favour, he died of a broken heart. + +Upon one occasion, some gentlemen of both White's and Brookes' had the +honour to dine with the Prince Regent, and during the conversation, the +Prince inquired what sort of dinners they got at their clubs; upon +which, Sir Thomas Stepney, one of the guests, observed that their +dinners were always the same, "the eternal joints, or beefsteaks, the +boiled fowl with oyster sauce, and an apple tart--this is what we have, +sir, at our clubs, and very monotonous fare it is." The Prince, +without further remark, rang the bell for his cook, Wattier, and, in +the presence of those who dined at the Royal table, asked him whether +he would take a house and organize a dinner club. Wattier assented, +and named Madison, the Prince's page, manager, and Labourie, the cook, +from the Royal kitchen. The club flourished only a few years, owing to +the high play that was carried on there. The Duke of York patronized +it, and was a member. I was a member in 1816, and frequently saw his +Royal Highness there. The dinners were exquisite; the best Parisian +cooks could not beat Labourie. The favourite game played there was +macao. Upon one occasion, Jack Bouvrie, brother of Lady Heytesbury, +was losing large sums, and became very irritable; Raikes, with bad +taste, laughed at Bouverie, and attempted to amuse us with some of his +stale jokes; upon which, Bouverie threw his play-bowl, with the few +counters it contained, at Raikes's head; unfortunately it struck him, +and made the City dandy angry, but no serious results followed this +open insult. + + + + +REMARKABLE CHARACTERS OF LONDON ABOUT THE YEARS 1814, 1815, 1816 + + +It appears to be a law of natural history that every generation +produces and throws out from the mob of society a few conspicuous men, +that pass under the general appellation of "men about town." Michael +Angelo Taylor was one of those remarkable individuals whom everyone was +glad to know; and those who had not that privilege were ever talking +about him, although he was considered by many a bit of a bore. Michael +Angelo was a Member of Parliament for many years, and generally sat in +one of the most important committees of the House of Commons; for he +was a man of authority and an attractive speaker. In appearance he was +one of that sort of persons whom you could not pass in the streets +without exclaiming, "Who can that be?" His face blushed with port +wine, the purple tints of which, by contrast, caused his white hair to +glitter with silvery brightness; he wore leather breeches, top boots, +blue coat, white waistcoat, and an unstarched and exquisitely white +neckcloth, the whole surmounted by a very broad-brimmed beaver;--such +was the dress of the universally known Michael Angelo Taylor. If you +met him in society, or at the clubs, he was never known to salute you +but with the invariable phrase, "What news have you?" Upon one +occasion, riding through St. James's Park, he met the great Minister, +Mr. Pitt, coming from Wimbledon, where he resided. He asked Mr. Pitt +the usual question, upon which the Premier replied, "I have not yet +seen the morning papers." + +"Oh, that won't do, Mr. Pitt. I am Sure that you know something, and +will not tell me." Mr. Pitt good-humouredly replied: "Well, then, I am +going to a Cabinet Council, and I will consult my colleagues whether I +can divulge State secrets to you or not." Upon another occasion, on +entering Boodle's, of which he was a member, he observed the celebrated +Lord Westmoreland at table, where the noble lord was doing justice to a +roast fowl. Taylor, of course, asked him the news of the day, and Lord +Westmoreland coolly told the little newsmonger to go into the other +room and leave him to finish his dinner, promising to join him after he +had done. The noble Lord kept his word, and the first thing he heard +from Mr. Taylor was, "Well, my lord, what news? what had you for +dinner?" + +His lordship replied, "A Welsh leg of mutton." "What then--what then?" +"Don't you think a leg of mutton enough for any man?" "Yes, my lord, +but you did not eat it all." "Yes, Taylor, I did." "Well, I think you +have placed the leg of mutton in some mysterious place, for I see no +trace of it in your lean person." + +Lord Westmoreland was remarkable for an appetite which made nothing of +a respectable joint, or a couple of fowls. + +I know not whether Mr. Poole, the author of Paul Pry, had Michael +Angelo in his head when he wrote that well-known comedy; but certainly +he might have sat for a character whose intrusive and inquisitive +habits were so notorious, that people on seeing him approach always +prepared for a string of almost impertinent interrogations. + +Another remarkable man about town was Colonel Cooke, commonly called +Kangaroo Cooke, who was for many years the private aide-de-camp and +secretary of H. R. H. the Duke of York. He was the brother of +General Sir George Cooke and of the beautiful Countess of Cardigan, +mother of the gallant Lord Cardigan, and the Ladies Howe, Baring, and +Lucan. During his career he had been employed in diplomatic +negotiations with the French, previous to the peace of Paris. He was +in the best society, and always attracted attention by his dandified +mode of dress. + +Colonel Armstrong, another pet of the Duke of York, was known, when in +the Coldstream Guards, to be a thorough hard-working soldier, and his +non-commissioned officers were so perfect, that nearly all the +adjutants of the different regiments of the line were educated by him. +He was a strict disciplinarian, but strongly opposed to corporal +punishment, and used to boast that during the whole time that he +commanded the regiment only two men had been flogged. + +Colonel Mackinnon, commonly called "Dan," was an exceedingly well-made +man, and remarkable for his physical powers in running, jumping, +climbing, and such bodily exercises as demanded agility and muscular +strength. He used to amuse his friends by creeping over the furniture +of a room like a monkey. It was very common for his companions to make +bets with him: for example, that he would not be able to climb up the +ceiling of a room, or scramble over a certain house-top. Grimaldi, the +famous clown, used to say, "Colonel Mackinnon has only to put on the +motley costume, and he would totally eclipse me." + +Mackinnon was famous for practical jokes; which were, however, always +played in a gentlemanly way. Before landing at St. Andero's, with some +other officers who had been on leave in England, he agreed to personate +the Duke of York, and make the Spaniards believe that his Royal +Highness was amongst them. On nearing the shore, a royal standard was +hoisted at the masthead, and Mackinnon disembarked, wearing the star of +his shako on his left breast, and accompanied by his friends, who +agreed to play the part of aides-de-camp to royalty. The Spanish +authorities were soon informed of the arrival of the Royal +Commander-in-Chief of the British army; so they received Mackinnon with +the usual pomp and circumstance attending such occasions. The mayor of +the place, in honour of the illustrious arrival, gave a grand banquet, +which terminated with the appearance of a huge bowl of punch. Whereupon +Dan, thinking that the joke had gone far enough, suddenly dived his +head into the porcelain vase, and threw his heels into the air. The +surprise and indignation of the solemn Spaniards was such, that they +made a most intemperate report of the hoax that had been played on them +to Lord Wellington; Dan, however, was ultimately forgiven, after a +severe reprimand. + +Another of his freaks very nearly brought him to a court-martial. Lord +Wellington was curious about visiting a convent near Lisbon, and the +lady abbess made no difficulty; Mackinnon, hearing this, contrived to +get clandestinely within the sacred walls, and it was generally +supposed that it was neither his first nor his second visit. At all +events, when Lord Wellington arrived, Dan Mackinnon was to be seen +among the nuns, dressed out in their sacred costume, with his head and +whiskers shaved, and as he possessed good features, he was declared to +be one of the best-looking amongst those chaste dames. It was supposed +that this adventure, which was known to Lord Byron, suggested a similar +episode in Don Juan, the scene being laid in the East. I might say +more about Dan's adventures in the convent, but have no wish to be +scandalous. + +Another dandy of the day was Sir Lumley Skeffington, who used to paint +his face, so that he looked like a French toy; he dressed a la +Robespierre, and practised other follies, although the consummate old +fop was a man of literary attainments, and a great admirer and patron +of the drama. Skeffington was remarkable for his politeness and courtly +manners; in fact, he was invited everywhere, and was very popular with +the ladies. You always knew of his approach by an avant-courier of +sweet smells; and when he advanced a little nearer, you might suppose +yourself in the atmosphere of a perfumer's shop. He is thus +immortalized by Byron, in the English Bards and Scotch Reviewers, +alluding to the play written by Skeffington, The Sleeping Beauty:-- + + "In grim array though Lewis' spectres rise, + Still Skeffington and Goose divide the prize: + And sure great Skeffington must claim our praise, + For skirtless coats and skeletons of plays + Renowned alike; whose genius ne'er confines + Her flight to garnish Greenwood's gay designs, + Nor sleeps with 'sleeping beauties' but anon + In five facetious acts comes thundering on, + While poor John Bull, bewildered with the scene, + Stares, wondering what the devil it can mean; + But as some hands applaud--a venal few-- + Rather than sleep, John Bull applauds it too." + +Long Wellesley Pole was a fashionable who distinguished himself by +giving sumptuous dinners at Wanstead, where he owned one of the finest +mansions in England. He used to ask his friends to dine with him after +the opera at midnight; the drive from London being considered +appetisant. Every luxury that money could command was placed before +his guests at this unusual hour of the night. He married Miss Tylney +Pole, an heiress of fifty thousand a-year, yet died quite a beggar: in +fact, he would have starved, had it not been for the charity of his +cousin, the present Duke of Wellington, who allowed him three hundred +a-year. + + + + +THE GUARDS MARCHING FROM ENGHIEN ON THE 15TH OF JUNE + + +Two battalions of my regiment had started from Brussels; the other (the +2nd), to which I belonged, remained in London, and I saw no prospect of +taking part in the great events which were about to take place on the +Continent. Early in June I had the honour of dining with Colonel +Darling, the deputy adjutant-general, and I was there introduced to Sir +Thomas Picton, as a countryman and neighbour of his brother, Mr. +Turbeville, of Evenney Abbey, in Glamorganshire. He was very gracious, +and, on his two aides-de-camp--Major Tyler and my friend Chambers, of +the Guards--lamenting that I was obliged to remain at home, Sir Thomas +said, "Is the lad really anxious to go out?" Chambers answered that it +was the height of my ambition. Sir Thomas inquired if all the +appointments to his staff were filled up; and then added, with a grim +smile, "If Tyler is killed, which is not at all unlikely, I do not know +why I should not take my young countryman: he may go over with me if he +can get leave." I was overjoyed at this, and, after thanking the +General a thousand times, made my bow and retired. + +I was much elated at the thoughts of being Picton's aide-de-camp, +though that somewhat remote contingency depended upon my friends Tyler, +or Chambers, or others, meeting with an untimely end; but at eighteen +on ne doute de rien. So I set about thinking how I should manage to get +my outfit, in order to appear at Brussels in a manner worthy of the +aide-de-camp of the great General. As my funds were at a low ebb, I +went to Cox and Greenwood's, those staunch friends of the hard-up +soldier. Sailors may talk of the "little cherub that sits up aloft," +but commend me for liberality, kindness, and generosity, to my old +friends in Craig's Court. I there obtained 200L., which I took with me +to a gambling-house in St. James' Square, where I managed, by some +wonderful accident, to win 600L.; and, having thus obtained the sinews +of war, I made numerous purchases, amongst others two first-rate horses +at Tattersall's for a high figure, which were embarked for Ostend, +along with my groom. I had not got leave; but I thought I should get +back, after the great battle that appeared imminent, in time to mount +guard at St. James's. On a Saturday I accompanied Chambers in his +carriage to Ramsgate, where Sir Thomas Picton and Tyler had already +arrived; we remained there for the Sunday, and embarked on Monday in a +vessel which had been hired for the General and suite. On the same day +we arrived at Ostend, and put up at an hotel in the square; where I was +surprised to hear the General, in excellent French, get up a flirtation +with our very pretty waiting-maid. + +Sir Thomas Picton was a stern-looking, strong-built man, about the +middle height, and considered very like the Hetman Platoff. He +generally wore a blue frock-coat, very tightly buttoned up to the +throat; a very large black silk neckcloth, showing little or no +shirt-collar; dark trousers, boots, and a round hat: it was in this +very dress that he was attired at Quatre Bras, as he had hurried off to +the scene of action before his uniform arrived. After sleeping at +Ostend, the General and Tyler went the next morning to Ghent, and on +Thursday to Brussels. I proceeded by boat to Ghent, and, without +stopping, hired a carriage, and arrived in time to order rooms for Sir +Thomas at the Hotel d'Angleterre, Rue de la Madeleine, at Brussels: our +horses followed us. + +While we were at breakfast, Colonel Canning came to inform the General +that the Duke of Wellington wished to see him immediately. Sir Thomas +lost not a moment in obeying the order of his chief, leaving the +breakfast-table and proceeding to the park, where Wellington was +walking with Fitzroy Somerset and the Duke of Richmond. Picton's +manner was always more familiar than the Duke liked in his lieutenants, +and on this occasion he approached him in a careless sort of way, just +as he might have met an equal. The Duke bowed coldly to him, and said, +"I am glad you are come, Sir Thomas; the sooner you get on horseback +the better; no time is to be lost. You will take the command of the +troops in advance. The Prince of Orange knows by this time that you +will go to his assistance." Picton appeared not to like the Duke's +manner; for, when he bowed and left, he muttered a few words which +convinced those who were with him that he was not much pleased with his +interview. + + + + +QUATRE BRAS + + +I got upon the best of my two horses, and followed Sir Thomas Picton +and his staff to Quatre Bras at full speed. His division was already +engaged in supporting the Prince of Orange, and had deployed itself in +two lines in front of the road to Sombref when he arrived. Sir Thomas +immediately took the command. Shortly afterwards, Kempt's and Pack's +brigades arrived by the Brussels road, and part of Alten's division by +the Nivelles road. + +Ney was very strong in cavalry, and our men were constantly formed into +squares to receive them. The famous Kellerman, the hero of Marengo, +tried a last charge, and was very nearly being taken or killed, as his +horse was shot under him when very near us. Wellington at last took +the offensive;--a charge was made against the French, which succeeded, +and we remained masters of the field. I acted as a mere spectator, and +got, on one occasion, just within twenty or thirty yards of some of the +cuirassiers; but my horse was too quick for them. + +On the 17th, Wellington retreated upon Waterloo, about eleven o'clock. +The infantry were masked by the cavalry in two lines, parallel to the +Namur road. Our cavalry retired on the approach of the French cavalry, +in three columns, on the Brussels road. A torrent of rain fell, upon +the Emperor's ordering the heavy cavalry to charge us; while the fire +of sixty or eighty pieces of cannon showed that we had chosen our +position at Waterloo. Chambers said to me, "Now, Gronow, the loss has +been very severe in the Guards, and I think you ought to go and see +whether you are wanted; for, as you have really nothing to do with +Picton, you had better join your regiment, or you may get into a +scrape." Taking his advice, I rode off to where the Guards were +stationed; the officers--amongst whom I remember Colonel Thomas and +Brigade-Major Miller--expressed their astonishment and amazement on +seeing me, and exclaimed, "What the deuce brought you here? Why are +you not with your battalion in London? Get off your horse, and explain +how you came here!" + +Things were beginning to look a little awkward, when Gunthorpe, the +adjutant, a great friend of mine, took my part and said, "As he is +here, let us make the most of him; there's plenty of work for everyone. +Come, Gronow, you shall go with the Hon. Captain Clements and a +detachment to the village of Waterloo, to take charge of the French +prisoners." I said, "What the deuce shall I do with my horse?" Upon +which the Hon. Captain Stopford, aide-de-camp to Sir John Byng, +volunteered to buy him. Having thus once more become a foot soldier, I +started according to orders, and arrived at Waterloo. + + + + +GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE FIELD OF WATERLOO + + +The day on which the battle of Waterloo was fought seemed to have been +chosen by some providential accident for which human wisdom is unable +to account. On the morning of the 18th the sun shone most gloriously, +and so clear was the atmosphere that we could see the long, imposing +lines of the enemy most distinctly. Immediately in front of the +division to which I belonged, and, I should imagine, about half a mile +from us, were posted cavalry and artillery; and to the right and left +the French had already engaged us, attacking Huguemont and La Haye +Sainte. We heard incessantly the measured boom of artillery, +accompanied by the incessant rattling echoes of musketry. + +The whole of the British infantry not actually engaged were at that +time formed into squares; and as you looked along our lines, it seemed +as if we formed a continuous wall of human beings. I recollect +distinctly being able to see Bonaparte and his staff; and some of my +brother officers using the glass, exclaimed, "There he is on his white +horse." I should not forget to state that when the enemy's artillery +began to play on us, we had orders to lie down, when we could hear the +shot and shell whistling around us, killing and wounding great numbers; +then again we were ordered on our knees to receive cavalry. The French +artillery--which consisted of three hundred guns, though we did not +muster more than half that number--committed terrible havoc during the +early part of the battle, whilst we were acting on the defensive. + + + + +THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON IN OUR SQUARE + + +About four P.M. the enemy's artillery in front of us ceased firing all +of a sudden, and we saw large masses of cavalry advance: not a man +present who survived could have forgotten in after life the awful +grandeur of that charge. You discovered at a distance what appeared to +be an overwhelming, long moving line, which, ever advancing, glittered +like a stormy wave of the sea when it catches the sunlight. On they +came until they got near enough, whilst the very earth seemed to +vibrate beneath the thundering tramp of the mounted host. One might +suppose that nothing could have resisted the shock of this terrible +moving mass. They were the famous cuirassiers, almost all old soldiers, +who had distinguished themselves on most of the battlefields of Europe. +In an almost incredibly short period they were within twenty yards of +us, shouting "Vive l'Empereur!" The word of command, "Prepare to +receive cavalry," had been given, every man in the front ranks knelt, +and a wall bristling with steel, held together by steady hands, +presented itself to the infuriated cuirassiers. + +I should observe that just before this charge the duke entered by one +of the angles of the square, accompanied only by one aide-de-camp; all +the rest of his staff being either killed or wounded. Our +commander-in-chief, as far as I could judge, appeared perfectly +composed; but looked very thoughtful and pale. He was dressed in a +grey great-coat with a cape, white cravat, leather pantaloons, Hessian +boots, and a large cocked hat a la Russe. + +The charge of the French cavalry was gallantly executed; but our +well-directed fire brought men and horses down, and ere long the utmost +confusion arose in their ranks. The officers were exceedingly brave, +and by their gestures and fearless bearing did all in their power to +encourage their men to form again and renew the attack. The duke sat +unmoved, mounted on his favourite charger. I recollect his asking the +Hon. Lieut.-Colonel Stanhope what o'clock it was, upon which Stanhope +took out his watch, and said it was twenty minutes past four. The Duke +replied, "The battle is mine; and if the Prussians arrive soon, there +will be an end of the war." + + + + +THE FRENCH CAVALRY CHARGING THE BRUNSWICKERS + + +Soon after the cuirassiers had retired, we observed to our right the +red hussars of the Garde Imperiale charging a square of Brunswick +riflemen, who were about fifty yards from us. This charge was +brilliantly executed, but the well-sustained fire from the square +baffled the enemy, who were obliged to retire after suffering a severe +loss in killed and wounded. The ground was completely covered with +those brave men, who lay in various positions, mutilated in every +conceivable way. Among the fallen we perceived the gallant colonel of +the hussars lying under his horse, which had been killed, All of a +sudden two riflemen of the Brunswickers left their battalion, and after +taking from their helpless victim his purse, watch, and other articles +of value, they deliberately put the colonel's pistols to the poor +fellow's head and blew out his brains. "Shame! shame!" was heard from +our ranks, and a feeling of indignation ran through the whole line; but +the deed was done: this brave soldier lay a lifeless corpse in sight of +his cruel foes, whose only excuse perhaps was that their sovereign, the +Duke of Brunswick, had been killed two days before by the French. + +Again and again various cavalry regiments, heavy dragoons, lancers, +hussars, carabineers of the Guard, endeavoured to break our walls of +steel. The enemy's cavalry had to advance over ground which was so +heavy that they could not reach us except at a trot; they therefore +came upon us in a much more compact mass than they probably would have +done if the ground had been more favourable. When they got within ten +or fifteen yards they discharged their carbines, to the cry of "Vive l' +Empereur!" their fire produced little effect, as that of cavalry +generally does. Our men had orders not to fire unless they could do so +on a near mass; the object being to economize our ammunition, and not +to waste it on scattered soldiers. The result was, that when the +cavalry had discharged their carbines, and were still far off, we +occasionally stood face to face, looking at each other inactively, not +knowing what the next move might be. The lancers were particularly +troublesome, and approached us with the utmost daring. On one occasion +I remember, the enemy's artillery having made a gap in the square, the +lancers were evidently waiting to avail themselves of it, to rush among +us, when Colonel Staples at once observing their intention, with the +utmost promptness filled up the gap, and thus again completed our +impregnable steel wall; but in this act he fell mortally wounded. The +cavalry seeing this, made no attempt to carry out their original +intentions, and observing that we had entirely regained our square, +confined themselves to hovering round us. I must not forget to mention +that the lancers in particular never failed to despatch our wounded +whenever they had an opportunity of doing so. + +When we received cavalry, the order was to fire low; so that on the +first discharge of musketry the ground was strewed with the fallen +horses and their riders, which impeded the advance of those behind them +and broke the shock of the charge. It was pitiable to witness the +agony of the poor horses, who really seemed conscious of the dangers +that surrounded them: we often saw a poor wounded animal raise its +head, as if looking for its rider to afford him aid. There is nothing +perhaps amongst the episodes of a great battle more striking than the +debris of a cavalry charge, where men and horses are seen scattered and +wounded on the ground in every variety of painful attitude. Many a time +the heart sickened at the moaning tones of agony which came from man +and scarcely less intelligent horse, as they lay in fearful agony upon +the field of battle. + + + + +THE LAST CHARGE AT WATERLOO + + +It was about five o'clock on that memorable day, that we suddenly +received orders to retire behind an elevation in our rear. The enemy's +artillery had come up en masse within a hundred yards of us. By the +time they began to discharge their guns, however, we were lying down +behind the rising ground, and protected by the ridge before referred +to. The enemy's cavalry was in the rear of their artillery, in order +to be ready to protect it if attacked; but no attempt was made on our +part to do so. After they had pounded away at us for about half an +hour, they deployed, and up came the whole mass of the Imperial +infantry of the Guard, led on by the Emperor in person. We had now +before us probably about 20,000 of the best soldiers in France, the +heroes of many memorable victories; we saw the bearskin caps rising +higher and higher as they ascended the ridge of ground which separated +us, and advanced nearer and nearer to our lines. It was at this moment +the Duke of Wellington gave his famous order for our bayonet charge, as +he rode along the line: these are the precise words he made use +of--"Guards, get up and charge!" We were instantly on our legs, and +after so many hours of inaction and irritation at maintaining a purely +defensive attitude--all the time suffering the loss of comrades and +friends--the spirit which animated officers and men may easily be +imagined. After firing a volley as soon as the enemy were within shot, +we rushed on with fixed bayonets, and that hearty hurrah peculiar to +British soldiers. + +It appeared that our men, deliberately and with calculation, singled +out their victims; for as they came upon the Imperial Guard our line +broke, and the fighting became irregular. The impetuosity of our men +seemed almost to paralyze their enemies: I witnessed several of the +Imperial Guard who were run through the body apparently without any +resistance on their parts. I observed a big Welshman of the name of +Hughes, who was six feet seven inches in height, run through with his +bayonet, and knock down with the butt end of his firelock, I should +think a dozen at least of his opponents. This terrible contest did not +last more than ten minutes, for the Imperial Guard was soon in full +retreat, leaving all their guns and many prisoners in our hands. The +famous General Cambronne was taken prisoner fighting hand to hand with +the gallant Sir Colin Halkett, who was shortly after shot through the +cheeks by a grape-shot. Cambronne's supposed answer of "La Garde ne se +rend pas" was an invention of after-times, and he himself always denied +having used such an expression. + + + + +HUGUEMONT + + +Early on the morning after the battle of Waterloo, I visited Huguemont, +in order to witness with my own eyes the traces of one of the most +hotly-contested spots of the field of battle. I came first upon the +orchard, and there discovered heaps of dead men, in various uniforms: +those of the Guards in their usual red jackets, the German Legion in +green, and the French dressed in blue, mingled together. The dead and +the wounded positively covered the whole area of the orchard; not less +than two thousand men had there fallen. The apple-trees presented a +singular appearance; shattered branches were seen hanging about their +mother-trunks in such profusion that one might almost suppose the +stiff-growing and stunted tree had been converted into the willow: +every tree was riddled and smashed in a manner which told that the +showers of shot had been incessant. On this spot I lost some of my +dearest and bravest friends, and the country had to mourn many of its +most heroic sons slain here. + +I must observe that, according to the custom of commanding officers, +whose business it is after a great battle to report to the +Commander-in-Chief, the muster-roll of fame always closes before the +rank of captain. It has always appeared to me a great injustice that +there should ever be any limit to the roll of gallantry of either +officers or men. If a captain, lieutenant, an ensign, a sergeant, or a +private, has distinguished himself for his bravery, his intelligence, +or both, their deeds ought to be reported, in order that the sovereign +and nation should know who really fight the great battles of England. +Of the class of officers and men to which I have referred, there were +many of even superior rank who were omitted to be mentioned in the +public despatches. + +Thus, for example, to the individual courage of Lord Saltoun and +Charley Ellis, who commanded the light companies, was mainly owing our +success at Huguemont. The same may be said of Needham, Percival, +Erskine, Grant, Vyner, Buckley, Master, and young Algernon Greville, +who at that time could not have been more than seventeen years old. +Excepting Percival, whose jaws were torn away by a grape-shot, everyone +of these heroes miraculously escaped. + +I do not wish, in making these observations, to detract from the +bravery and skill of officers whose names have already been mentioned +in official despatches, but I think it only just that the services of +those I have particularized should not be forgotten by one of their +companions in arms. + + + + +BYNG WITH HIS BRIGADE AT WATERLOO + + +No individual officer more distinguished himself than did General Byng +at the battle of Waterloo. In the early part of the day he was seen at +Huguemont, leading his men in the thick of the fight; later he was with +the battalion in square, where his presence animated to the utmost +enthusiasm both officers and men. It is difficult to imagine how this +courageous man passed through such innumerable dangers from shot and +shell without receiving a single wound. I must also mention some other +instances of courage and devotion in officers belonging to this +brigade; for instance, it was Colonel MacDonell, a man of colossal +stature, with Hesketh, Bowes, Tom Sowerby, and Hugh Seymour, who +commanded from the inside the Chateau of Huguemont. When the French +had taken possession of the orchard, they made a rush at the principal +door of the chateau, which had been turned into a fortress. MacDonell +and the above officers placed themselves, accompanied by some of their +men, behind the portal and prevented the French from entering. Amongst +other officers of that brigade who were most conspicuous for bravery, I +would record the names of Montague, the "vigorous Gooch," as he was +called, and the well-known Jack Standen. + + + + +THE LATE DUKE OF RICHMOND + + +One of the most intimate friends of the Duke of Wellington was the Earl +of March, afterwards Duke of Richmond. He was a genuine hard-working +soldier, a man of extraordinary courage, and one who was ever found +ready to gain laurels amidst the greatest dangers. When the 7th +Fusiliers crossed the Bidassoa, the late duke left the staff and joined +the regiment in which he had a company. At Orthes, in the thick of the +fight, he received a shot which passed through his lungs; from this +severe wound he recovered sufficiently to be able to join the Duke of +Wellington, to whom he was exceedingly useful at the battle of +Waterloo. On his return to England, he united himself to the most +remarkably beautiful girl of the day, the eldest daughter of Lord +Anglesea, and whose mother was the lovely Duchess of Argyle. + + + + +THE UNFORTUNATE CHARGE OF THE HOUSEHOLD BRIGADE + + +When Lord Uxbridge gave orders to Sir W. Ponsonby and Lord Edward +Somerset to charge the enemy, our cavalry advanced with the greatest +bravery, cut through everything in their way, and gallantly attacked +whole regiments of infantry; but eventually they came upon a masked +battery of twenty guns, which carried death and destruction through our +ranks, and our poor fellows were obliged to give way. The French +cavalry followed on their retreat, when, perhaps, the severest +hand-to-hand cavalry fighting took place within the memory of man. The +Duke of Wellington was perfectly furious that this arm had been engaged +without his orders, and lost not a moment in sending them to the rear, +where they remained during the rest of the day. This disaster gave the +French cavalry an opportunity of annoying and insulting us, and +compelled the artillerymen to seek shelter in our squares; and if the +French had been provided with tackle, or harness of any description, +our guns would have been taken. It is, therefore, not to be wondered +at that the Duke should have expressed himself in no measured terms +about the cavalry movements referred to. I recollect that, when his +grace was in our square, our soldiers were so mortified at seeing the +French deliberately walking their horses between our regiment and those +regiments to our right and left, that they shouted, "Where are our +cavalry? why don't they come and pitch into those French fellows?" + + + + +THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON'S OPINION OF THE FRENCH CAVALRY + + +A day or two after our arrival in Paris from Waterloo, Colonel Felton +Hervey having entered the dining-room with the despatches which had +come from London, the Duke asked, "What news have you, Hervey?" upon +which, Colonel Felton Hervey answered, "I observe by the Gazette that +the Prince Regent has made himself Captain-General of the Life Guards +and Blues, for their brilliant conduct at Waterloo." + +"Ah!" replied the Duke, "his Royal Highness is our Sovereign, and can +do what he pleases; but this I will say, the cavalry of other European +armies have won victories for their generals, but mine have invariably +got me into scrapes. It is true that they have always fought gallantly +and bravely, and have generally got themselves out of their +difficulties by sheer pluck." + +The justice of this observation has since been confirmed by the charge +at Balaklava, where our cavalry undauntedly rushed into the face of +death under the command of that intrepid officer Lord Cardigan. + + + + +MARSHAL EXCELMANN'S OPINION OF THE BRITISH CAVALRY + + +Experience has taught me that there is nothing more valuable than the +opinions of intelligent foreigners on the military and naval +excellences, and the failures, of our united service. Marshal +Excelmann's opinion about the British cavalry struck me as remarkably +instructive: he used to say, "Your horses are the finest in the world, +and your men ride better than any Continental soldiers; with such +materials, the English cavalry ought to have done more than has ever +been accomplished by them on the field of battle. The great deficiency +is in your officers, who have nothing to recommend them but their dash +and sitting well in their saddles; indeed, as far as my experience +goes, your English generals have never understood the use of cavalry: +they have undoubtedly frequently misapplied that important arm of a +grand army, and have never, up to the battle of Waterloo, employed the +mounted soldier at the proper time and in the proper place. The +British cavalry officer seems to be impressed with the conviction that +he can dash and ride over everything; as if the art of war were +precisely the same as that of fox-hunting. I need not remind you of +the charge of your two heavy brigades at Waterloo: this charge was +utterly useless, and all the world knows they came upon a masked +battery, which obliged a retreat, and entirely disconcerted +Wellington's plans during the rest of the day." + +"Permit me," he added, "to point out a gross error as regards the dress +of your cavalry. I have seen prisoners so tightly habited that it was +impossible for them to use their sabres with facility." The French +Marshal concluded by observing--"I should wish nothing better than such +material as your men and horses are made of; since with generals who +wield cavalry, and officers who are thoroughly acquainted with that +duty in the field, I do not hesitate to say I might gain a battle." + +Such was the opinion of a man of cool judgment, and one of the most +experienced cavalry officers of the day. + + + + +APPEARANCE OF PARIS WHEN THE ALLIES ENTERED + + +I propose giving my own impression of the aspect of Paris and its +vicinity when our regiment entered that city on the 25th of June, 1815. +I recollect we marched from the plain of St. Denis, my battalion being +about five hundred strong, the survivors of the heroic fight of the +18th of June. We approached near enough to be within fire of the +batteries of Montmartre, and bivouacked for three weeks in the Bois de +Boulogne. That now beautiful garden was at the period to which I refer +a wild pathless wood, swampy, and entirely neglected. The Prussians, +who were in bivouac near us, amused themselves by doing as much damage +as they could, without any useful aim or object: they cut down the +finest trees, and set the wood on fire at several points. There were +about three thousand of the Guards then encamped in the wood, and I +should think about ten thousand Prussians. Our camp was not remarkable +for its courtesy towards them; in fact, our intercourse was confined to +the most ordinary demands of duty, as allies in an enemy's country. + +I believe I was one of the first of the British army who penetrated +into the heart of Paris after Waterloo. I entered by the Porte +Maillot, and passed the Arc de Triomphe, which was then building. In +those days the Champs Elysees only contained a few scattered houses, +and the roads and pathways were ancle deep in mud. The only attempt at +lighting was the suspension of a few lamps on cords, which crossed the +roads. Here I found the Scotch regiments bivouacking; their peculiar +uniform created a considerable sensation amongst the Parisian women, +who did not hesitate to declare that the want of culottes was most +indecent. I passed through the camp, and proceeded on towards the +gardens of the Tuilleries. This ancient palace of the Kings of France +presented, so far as the old front is concerned, the same aspect that +it does at the present day; but there were then no flower-gardens, +although the same stately rows of trees which now ornament the grounds +were then in their midsummer verdure. + +Being in uniform, I created an immense amount of curiosity amongst the +Parisians; who, by the way, I fancied regarded me with no loving looks. +The first house I entered was a cafe in the garden of the Tuilleries, +called Legac's. I there met a man who told me he was by descent an +Englishman; though he had been born in Paris, and had really never +quitted France. He approached me, saying, "Sir, I am delighted to see +an English officer in Paris, and you are the first I have yet met +with." He talked about the battle of Waterloo, and gave me some useful +directions concerning restaurants and cafes. Along the Boulevards were +handsome houses, isolated, with gardens interspersed, and the roads +were bordered on both sides with stately, spreading trees, some of them +probably a hundred years old. There was but an imperfect pavement, the +stepping-stones of which were adapted to display the Parisian female +ankle and boot in all their calculated coquetry; and the road showed +nothing but mother earth, in the middle of which a dirty gutter served +to convey the impurities of the city to the river. The people in the +streets appeared sulky and stupefied: here and there I noticed groups +of the higher classes evidently discussing the events of the moment. + +How strange humanity would look in our day in the costume of the first +empire. The ladies wore very scanty and short skirts, which left +little or no waist; their bonnets were of exaggerated proportions, and +protruded at least a foot from their faces, and they generally carried +a fan. The men wore blue or black coats, which were baggily made, and +reached down to their ankles; their hats were enormously large, and +spread out at the top. + +I dined the first day of my entrance into Paris at the Cafe Anglais, on +the Boulevard des Italiens, where I found to my surprise several of my +brother officers. I recollect the charge for the dinner was about +one-third what it would be at the present day. I had a potage, +fish--anything but fresh, and, according to English predilections and +taste, of course I ordered a beef-steak and pommes de terre. The wine, +I thought, was sour. The dinner cost about two francs. The theatres at +this time, as may easily be imagined, were not very well attended. I +recollect going to the Francais, where I saw for the first time the +famous Talma. There was but a scanty audience; in fact all the best +places in the house were empty. + +It may easily be imagined that, at a moment like this, most of those +who had a stake in the country were pondering over the great and real +drama that was then taking place. Napoleon had fled to Rochfort; the +wreck of his army had retreated beyond the Loire; no list of killed and +wounded had appeared; and, strange to say, the official journal of +Paris had made out that the great Imperial army at Waterloo had gained +a victory. There were, nevertheless, hundreds of people in Paris who +knew to the contrary, and many were already aware that they had lost +relations and friends in the great battle. + +Louis XVIII. arrived, as well as I can remember, at the Tuileries on +the 26th of July, 1815, and his reception by the Parisians was a +singular illustration of the versatile character of the French nation, +and the sudden and often inexplicable changes which take place in the +feeling of the populace. When the Bourbon, in his old lumbering state +carriage, drove down the Boulevards, accompanied by the Garde du Corps, +the people in the streets and at the windows displayed the wildest joy, +enthusiastically shouting "Vive le Roi!" amidst the waving of hats and +handkerchiefs, while white sheets or white rags were made to do the +duty of a Bourbon banner. The king was dressed in a blue coat with a +red collar, and wore also a white waistcoat and a cocked hat with a +white cockade in it. His portly and good-natured appearance seemed to +be appreciated by the crowd, whom he saluted with a benevolent smile. +I should here mention that two great devotees of the Church sat +opposite to the King on this memorable occasion. The cortege proceeded +slowly down the Rue de la Paix until the Tuileries was reached, where a +company of the Guards, together with a certain number of the Garde +Nationale of Paris, were stationed. + +It fell to my lot to be on duty the day after, when the Duke of +Wellington and Lord Castlereagh arrived to pay their respects to the +restored monarch. I happened to be in the Salle des Marechaux when +these illustrious personages passed through that magnificent apartment. +The respect paid to the Duke of Wellington on this occasion may be +easily imagined, from the fact that a number of ladies of the highest +rank, and of course partisans of the legitimate dynasty, formed an +avenue through which the hero of Waterloo passed, exchanging with them +courteous recognitions. The King was waiting in the grand reception +apartment to receive the great British captain. The interview, I have +every reason to believe, was not confined to the courtesies of the +palace. + +The position of the Duke was a difficult one. In the first place, he +had to curb the vindictive vandalism of Blucher and his army, who would +have levelled the city of Paris to the ground, if they could have done +so; on the other hand, he had to practise a considerable amount of +diplomacy towards the newly-restored King. At the same time the Duke's +powers from his own Government were necessarily limited. A spirit of +vindictiveness pervaded the restored Court against Napoleon and his +adherents, which the Duke constantly endeavoured to modify. I must not +forget to give an illustration of this state of feeling. It was +actually proposed by Talleyrand, Fouche, and some important +ecclesiastics of the ultra-royalist party, to arrest and shoot the +Emperor Napoleon, who was then at Rochfort: so anxious were they to +commit this criminal, inhuman, and cowardly act, on an illustrious +fallen enemy, who had made the arms of France glorious throughout +Europe, that they suggested to the Duke, who had the command of the old +wooden-armed semaphores, to employ the telegraph to order what I should +have designated by no other name than the assassination of the Caesar +of modern history. + + + + +MARSHAL NEY AND WELLINGTON + + +As an illustration of the false impressions which are always +disseminated concerning public men, I must record the following +fact:--The Duke of Wellington was accused of being implicated in the +military murder of Ney. Now, so far from this being the truth, I know +positively that the Duke of Wellington used every endeavour to prevent +this national disgrace; but the Church party, ever crafty and ever +ready to profit by the weakness and passions of humanity, supported the +King in his moments of excited revenge. It is a lamentable fact, but +no less historical truth, that the Roman Catholic Church has ever +sought to make the graves of its enemies the foundations of its power. +The Duke of Wellington was never able to approach the King or use his +influence to save Marshal Ney's life; but everything he could do was +done, in order to accomplish his benevolent views. I repeat, the +influence of the ultra-montane party triumphed over the Christian +humanity of the illustrious Duke. + + + + +THE PALAIS ROYAL AFTER THE RESTORATION + + +France has often been called the centre of European fashion and gaiety; +and the Palais Royal, at the period to which I refer, might be called +the very heart of French dissipation. It was a theatre in which all +the great actors of fashion of all nations met to play their parts: on +this spot were congregated daily an immense multitude, for no other +purpose than to watch the busy comedy of real life that animated the +corridors, gardens, and saloons of that vast building, which was +founded by Richelieu and Mazarin, and modified by Philippe Egalite. +Mingled together, and moving about the area of this oblong-square block +of buildings, might be seen, about seven o'clock P.M., a crowd of +English, Russian, Prussian, Austrian, and other officers of the Allied +armies, together with countless foreigners from all parts of the world. +Here, too, might have been seen the present King of Prussia, with his +father and brother, the late king, the Dukes of Nassau, Baden, and a +host of continental princes, who entered familiarly into the amusements +of ordinary mortals, dining incog. at the most renowned restaurants, +and flirting with painted female frailty. + +A description of one of the houses of the Palais Royal, will serve to +portray the whole of this French pandemonium. On the ground floor is a +jeweller's shop, where may be purchased diamonds, pearls, emeralds, and +every description of female ornament, such as only can be possessed by +those who have very large sums of money at their command. It was here +that the successful gambler often deposited a portion of his winnings, +and took away some costly article of jewellery, which he presented to +some female friend who had never appeared with him at the altar of +marriage. Beside this shop was a staircase, generally very dirty, which +communicated with the floors above. Immediately over the shop was a +cafe, at the counter of which presided a lady, generally of more than +ordinary female attractions, who was very much decolletee, and wore an +amount of jewellery which would have made the eye of an Israelite +twinkle with delight. And there la creme de la creme of male society +used to meet, sip their ice and drink their cup of mocha, whilst +holding long conversations, almost exclusively about gambling and women. + +Men's thoughts, in this region, seemed to centre night and day upon the +tapis vert, and at the entrance of this salon was that fatal chamber, +over which might have been written the famous line of Dante, "Voi che +entrate lasciate ogni speranza." The reader will at once understand +that I am referring to the gambling-house, the so-called "hell" of +modern society. In one room was the rouge et noir table, which, from +the hour of twelve in the morning, was surrounded by men in every stage +of the gambling malady. There was the young pigeon, who, on losing his +first feather, had experienced an exciting sensation which, if followed +by a bit of good luck, gave him a confidence that the parasites around +him, in order to flatter his vanity, would call pluck. There were +others in a more advanced stage of the fever, who had long since lost +the greater part of their incomes, having mortgaged their property, and +been in too frequent correspondence with the Jews. These men had not +got to the last stage of gambling despair, but they were so far +advanced on the road to perdition that their days were clouded by +perpetual anxiety, which reproduced itself in their very dreams. The +gambler who has thus far advanced in his career, lives in an inferno of +his own creation: the charms of society, the beauty of woman, the +attractions of the fine arts, and even the enjoyment of a good dinner, +are to him rather a source of irritation than delight. The confirmed +gamester is doing nothing less than perpetually digging a grave for his +own happiness. + +The third and most numerous group of men round the tapis vert consisted +of a class most of whom had already spent their fortunes, exhausted +their health, and lost their position in society, by the fatal and +demoralizing thirst for gold, which still fascinated them. These +became the hawks of the gambling table; their quick and wild-glancing +eyes were constantly looking out for suitable game during the day, and +leaving it where it might be bagged at night. Both at the rouge et +noir table and roulette the same sort of company might be met with. +These gambling-houses were the very fountains of immorality: they +gathered together, under the most seductive circumstances, the swindler +and the swindled. There were tables for all classes--the workman might +play with 20 sous, or the gentleman with 10,000 francs. The law did +not prevent any class from indulging in a vice that assisted to fill +the coffers of the municipality of Paris. + +The floor over the gambling-house was occupied by unmarried women. I +will not attempt to picture some of the saddest evils of the society of +large cities; but I may add that these Phrynes lived in a style of +splendour which can only be accounted for by the fact of their +participating in the easily-earned gains of the gambling-house regime. +Such was the state of the Palais Royal under Louis XVIII. and Charles +X.: the Palais Royal of the present day is simply a tame and +legitimately-commercial mart, compared with that of olden times. +Society has changed; Government no longer patronizes such nests of +immorality; and though vice may exist to the same extent, it assumes +another garb, and does not appear in the open streets, as at the period +to which I have referred. + +At that time, the Palais Royal was externally the only well-lighted +place in Paris. It was the rendezvous of all idlers, and especially of +that particular class of ladies who lay out their attractions for the +public at large. These were to be seen at all hours in full dress, +their bare necks ornamented with mock diamonds and pearls; and thus +decked out in all their finery, they paraded up and down, casting their +eyes significantly on every side. Some strange stories are told in +connection with the gambling houses of the Palais Royal. An officer of +the Grenadier Guards came to Paris on leave of absence, took apartments +here, and never left it until his time of absence had expired. On his +arrival in London one of his friends inquired whether this was true, to +which he replied, "Of course it is; for I found everything I wanted +there, both for body and mind." + + + + +THE ENGLISH IN PARIS AFTER THE RESTORATION OF THE BOURBONS + + +There is no more ordinary illusion belonging to humanity than that +which enables us to discover, in the fashions of the day, an elegance +and comeliness of dress which a few years after we ourselves regard as +odious caricatures of costume. Thousands of oddly-dressed English +flocked to Paris immediately after the war: I remember that the burden +of one of the popular songs of the day was, "All the world's in Paris;" +and our countrymen and women having so long been excluded from French +modes, had adopted fashions of their own quite as remarkable and +eccentric as those of the Parisians, and much less graceful. British +beauties were dressed in long, strait pelisses of various colours; the +body of the dress was never of the same colour as the skirt; and the +bonnet was of the bee-hive shape, and very small. The characteristic +of the dress of the gentleman was a coat of light blue, or +snuff-colour, With brass buttons, the tail reaching nearly to the +heels; a gigantic bunch of seals dangled from his fob, whilst his +pantaloons were short and tight at the knees; and a spacious waistcoat, +with a voluminous muslin cravat and a frilled shirt, completed the +toilette. The dress of the British military, in its stiff and formal +ugliness, was equally cumbrous and ludicrous. + +Lady Oxford--that beautiful and accomplished woman, who lived in her +hotel in the Rue de Clichy--gave charming soirees, at which were +gathered the elite of Paris society. Among these were Edward Montague, +Charles Standish, Hervey Aston, Arthur Upton, "Kangaroo" Cook, Benjamin +Constant, Dupin, Casimir Perier, as well as the chief Orleanists. On +one occasion, I recollect seeing there George Canning and the +celebrated Madame de Stael. Cornwall, the eldest son of the Bishop of +Worcester, had, from some unaccountable cause, a misunderstanding with +Madame de Stael, who appeared very excited, and said to Lady Oxford, in +a loud voice, "Notre ami, M. Cornewal, est grosso, rosso, e furioso." +It should be observed that the gentleman thus characterized was +red-haired, and hasty in temper. All who heard this denunciation were +astounded at the lady's manner, for she looked daggers at the object of +her sarcasm. + +Fox, the secretary of the embassy, was an excellent man, but odd, +indolent, and careless in the extreme; he was seldom seen in the +daytime, unless it was either at the embassy in a state of negligee, or +in bed. At night he used to go to the Salon des Etrangers; and, if he +possessed a Napoleon, it was sure to be thrown away at hazard, or rouge +et noir. On one occasion, however, fortune favoured him in a most +extraordinary manner. The late Henry Baring having recommended him to +take the dice-box, Fox replied, "I will do so for the last time, for +all my money is thrown away upon this infernal table." Fox staked all +he had in his pockets; he threw in eleven times, breaking the bank, and +taking home for his share 60,000 francs. After this, several days +passed without any tidings being heard of him; but upon my calling at +the embassy to get my passport vised, I went into his room, and saw it +filled with Cashmere shawls, silk, Chantilly veils, bonnets, gloves, +shoes, and other articles of ladies' dress. On my asking the purpose +of all this millinery, Fox replied, in a good-natured way, "Why, my +dear Gronow, it was the only means to prevent those rascals at the +salon winning back my money." + + + + +LES ANGLAISES POUR RIRE + + +An order had been given to the managers of all the theatres in Paris to +admit a certain number of soldiers of the army of occupation, free of +expense. It happened that a party of the Guards, composed of a +sergeant and a few men, went to the Theatre des Varietes on the +Boulevards, where one of the pieces, entitled Les Anglaises pour Rire, +was admirably acted by Potier and Brunet. In this piece Englishwomen +were represented in a very ridiculous light by those accomplished +performers. This gave great offence to our soldiers, and the sergeant +and his men determined to put a stop to the acting; accordingly they +stormed the stage, and laid violent hands upon the actors, eventually +driving them off. The police were called in, and foolishly wanted to +take our men to prison; but they soon found to their cost that they had +to deal with unmanageable opponents, for the whole posse of gendarmes +were charged and driven out of the theatre. A crowd assembled on the +Boulevards; which, however, soon dispersed when it became known that +English soldiers were determined, coute qu'il coute, to prevent their +countrywomen from being ridiculed. It must be remembered that the only +revenge which the Parisians were able to take upon the conquerors was +to ridicule them; and the English generally took it in good humour, and +laughed at the extravagant drollery of the burlesque. + +The English soldiers generally walked about Paris in parties of a +dozen, and were quiet and well-behaved. They usually gathered every +day on the Boulevard du Temple, where they were amused with the +mountebanks and jugglers there assembled. + +This part of Paris is now completely changed: but at the time I speak +of, it was an extensive open place, where every species of fun was +carried on, as at fairs: there were gambling, rope-dancing, wild +beasts, and shows; booths for the sale of cakes, gingerbread, fruit, +and lemonade; and every species of attraction that pleases the +multitude; but that space has now been built upon, and these sports +have all migrated to the barriers. + +During the time our troops remained, we had only one man found dead in +the streets: it was said that he had been murdered; but of that there +was considerable doubt, for no signs of violence were found. This was +strongly in contrast to what occurred to the Prussian soldiers. It was +asserted, and, indeed, proved beyond a doubt, that numbers of them were +assassinated; and in some parts of France it was not unusual to find in +the morning, in deep wells or cellars, several bodies of soldiers of +that nation who had been killed during the night; so strong was the +hatred borne against them by the French. + + + + +COACHING AND RACING IN 1815 + + +Stage-coaches, or four-in-hand teams, were introduced in Paris in 1815 +by Captain Bacon, of the 10th Hussars (afterwards a general in the +Portuguese service), Sir Charles Smith, Mr. Roles, the brewer, and +Arnold, of the 10th. They used to meet opposite Demidoff's house, +afterwards the Cafe de Paris, and drive to the Boulevard Beaumarchais, +and then back again, proceeding to the then unfinished Arc du Triomphe. +Crowds assembled to witness the departure of the teams; and it created +no little amusement to the Parisian to see perched upon Sir C. Smith's +coach one or two smartly-dressed ladies, who appeared quite at home. +Sir Charles was likewise a great supporter of the turf, and was the +first man who brought over from England thorough-bred horses. By his +indefatigable energy he contrived to get up very fair racing in the +neighbourhood of Valenciennes; his trainer at this time being Tom +Hurst, who is now, I believe, at Chantilly; and all the officers of our +several cavalry and infantry regiments contributed their efforts to +make these races respectable in the eyes of foreigners. Be this as it +may, they were superior to those in the Champs de Mars, though under +the patronage of the King. + +I shall not forget the first time I witnessed racing in Paris, for it +was more like a review of Gensdarmes and National Guards; the course +was kept by a forest of bayonets, while mounted police galloped after +the running horses, and, in some instances, reached the goal before +them. The Duc d' Angouleme, with the Duc de Guiche and the Prefet, were +present; but there was only one small stand, opposite to a sentry-box +where the judge was placed. The running, to say the least of it, was +ridiculous: horses and riders fell; and the fete, as it was called, +ended with a flourish of trumpets. Wonderful changes have taken place +since that time, and at the Bois de Boulogne and at Chantilly may be +seen running equal to that of our best races in England; and our +neighbours produce horses, bred in France, that can carry off some of +the great prizes in our own "Isthmian games." + + + + +PARISIAN CAFES IN 1815 + + +At the present day, Paris may be said to be a city of cafes and +restaurants. The railroads and steamboats enable the rich of every +quarter of the globe to reach the most attractive of all European +cities with comparative economy and facility. All foreigners arriving +in Paris seem by instinct to rush to the restaurateurs', where +strangers may be counted by tens of thousands. It is not surprising +that we find in every important street these gaudy modern triclinia, +which, I should observe, are as much frequented by a certain class of +French people as by foreigners, for Paris is proverbially fond of +dining out; in fact, the social intercourse may be said to take place +more frequently in the public cafe than under the domestic roof. + +In 1815, I need scarcely remark that the condition of the roads in +Europe, and the enormous expense of travelling, made a visit to Paris a +journey which could only be indulged in by a very limited and wealthy +class of strangers. Hotels and cafes were then neither so numerous nor +so splendid as at the present day: Meurice's Hotel was a very +insignificant establishment in the Rue de l'Echiquier; and in the Rue +de la Paix, at that time unfinished, there were but two or three +hotels, which would not be considered even second-rate at the present +time. The site of the Maison Dore, at the corner of the Rue Lafitte, +was then occupied by a shabby building which went by the name of the +Hotel d'Angleterre, and was kept by the popular and once beautiful +Madame Dunan. The most celebrated restaurant was that of Beauvilliers, +in the Rue de Richelieu; mirrors and a little gilding were the +decorative characteristics of this house; the cuisine was far superior +to that of any restaurateur of our day, and the wines were first-rate. +Beauvilliers was also celebrated for his supreme de volaille, and for +his cotelette a la Soubise. The company consisted of the most +distinguished men of Paris; here were to be seen Chateaubriand, Bailly +de Ferrette, the Dukes of Fitzjames, Rochefoucauld, and Grammont, and +many other remarkable personages. It was the custom to go to the +theatres after dinner, and then to the Salon des Etrangers, which was +the Parisian Crockford's. + +Another famous dining-house was the Rocher de Cancaille, in the Rue +Mandar, kept by Borel, formerly one of the cooks of Napoleon. Here the +cuisine was so refined that people were reported to have come over from +England expressly for the purpose of enjoying it: indeed, Borel once +showed me a list of his customers, amongst whom I found the names of +Robespierre, Charles James Fox, and the Duke of Bedford. In the Palais +Royal the still well-known Trois Freres Provenceaux was in vogue, and +frequented much by the French officers; being celebrated chiefly for +its wines and its Provence dishes: it was in the Palais Royal that +General Lannes, Junot, Murat, and other distinguished officers, used to +meet Bonaparte just before and during the Consulate; but the cafes, +with the exception of the Mille Colonnes, were not nearly so smartly +fitted-up as they now are. The Cafe Turc, on the Boulevard du Temple, +latterly visited chiefly by shopkeepers, was much frequented: smoking +was not allowed, and then, as now, ladies were seen here; more +especially when the theatres had closed. + + + + +REVIEW OF THE ALLIED ARMIES BY THE ALLIED SOVEREIGNS IN PARIS + + +In July, 1815, it was agreed by the Sovereigns of Russia, Austria, +Prussia, Bavaria, Wurtemberg, and a host of petty German Powers--who +had become wonderfully courageous and enthusiastically devoted to +England, a few hours after the Battle of Waterloo--that a grand review +should be held on the plains of St. Denis, where the whole of the +allied forces were to meet. Accordingly, at an early hour on a fine +summer morning, there were seen issuing from the various roads which +centre on the plains of St. Denis, numerous English, Russian, +Prussian, and Austrian regiments of horse and foot, in heavy marching +order, with their bands playing; and finally a mass of men, numbering +not less than 200,000, took up their positions on the wide-spreading +field. About twelve o'clock, the Duke of Wellington, +commander-in-chief of the allied army, approached, mounted on a +favourite charger; and, strange as it may appear, on his right was +observed a lady in a plain riding-habit, who was no other than Lady +Shelley, the wife of the late Sir John Shelley. Immediately behind the +Duke followed the Emperors of Austria, and Russia; the Kings of +Prussia, Holland, Bavaria, and Wurtemberg; several German princes, and +general officers; the whole forming one of the most illustrious and +numerous staffs ever brought together. The Duke of Wellington, thus +accompanied, took up his position, and began manoeuvering, with a +facility and confidence which elicited the admiration of all the +experienced soldiers around him. Being on duty near his grace, I had +an opportunity of hearing Prince Schwartzenberg say to the Duke, "You +are the only man who can so well play at this game." The review lasted +two hours; then the men marching home to their quarters, through a +crowd of spectators which included the whole population of Paris. The +most mournful silence was observed throughout on the part of the French. + + + + +CONDUCT OF THE RUSSIAN AND PRUSSIAN SOLDIERS DURING THE OCCUPATION OF +PARIS BY THE ALLIES + + +It is only just to say that the moderation shown by the British army, +from the Duke of Wellington down to the private soldier, during our +occupation of Paris, contrasted most favourably with that of the +Russian and Prussian military. Whilst we simply did our duty, and were +civil to all those with whom we came in contact, the Russians and +Prussians were frequently most insubordinate, and never lost an +opportunity of insulting a people whose armies had almost always +defeated them on the day of battle. I remember one particular +occasion, when the Emperor of Russia reviewed his Garde Imperiale, that +the Cossacks actually charged the crowd, and inflicted wounds on the +unarmed and inoffensive spectators. I recollect, too, a Prussian +regiment displaying its bravery in the Rue St. Honore on a number of +hackney coachmen; indeed, scarcely a day passed without outrages being +committed by the Russian and Prussian soldiers on the helpless +population of the lower orders. + + + + +THE BRITISH EMBASSY IN PARIS + + +England was represented at this period by Sir Charles Stuart, who was +one of the most popular ambassadors Great Britain ever sent to Paris. +He made himself acceptable to his countrymen, and paid as much +attention to individual interests as to the more weighty duties of +State. His attaches, as is always the case, took their tone and manner +from their chief, and were not only civil and agreeable to all those +who went to the Embassy, but knew everything and everybody, and were of +great use to the ambassador, keeping him well supplied with information +on whatever event might be taking place. The British Embassy, in those +days, was a centre where you were sure to find all the English +gentlemen in Paris collected, from time to time. Dinners, balls, and +receptions, were given with profusion throughout the season: in fact, +Sir Charles spent the whole of his private income in these noble +hospitalities. England was then represented, as it always should be in +France, by an ambassador who worthily expressed the intelligence, the +amiability, and the wealth, of the great country to which he belonged. +At the present day, the British Embassy emulates the solitude of a +monastic establishment; with the exception, however, of that +hospitality and courtesy which the traveller and stranger were wont to +experience, even in monasteries. + + + + +ESCAPE OF LAVALETTE FROM PRISON + + +Few circumstances created a greater sensation than the escape of +Lavalette from the Conciergerie, after he had been destined by the +French Government to give employment to the guillotine. The means by +which the prisoner avoided his fate and disappointed his enemies, +produced a deep respect for the English character, and led the French +to believe that, however much the Governments of France and England +might be disposed to foster feelings either of friendship or of enmity, +individuals could entertain the deepest sense of regard for each other, +and that a chivalrous feeling of honour would urge them on to the +exercise of the noblest feelings of our nature. This incident likewise +had a salutary influence in preventing acts of cruelty and of +bloodshed, which were doubtless contemplated by those in power. + +Lavalette had been, under the Imperial Government, head of the Post +Office, which place he filled on the return of the Bourbons; and when +the Emperor Napoleon arrived from Elba, he continued still to be thus +employed. Doubtless, on all occasions when opportunity presented +itself, he did all in his power to serve his great master; to whom, +indeed, he was allied by domestic ties, having married into the +Beauharnais family. When Louis the Eighteenth returned to Paris after +the battle of Waterloo, Lavalette and the unfortunate Marshal Ney were +singled out as traitors to the Bourbon cause, and tried, convicted, and +sentenced to death. The 26th of December was the day fixed for the +execution of Lavalette, a man of high respectability and of great +connections, whose only fault was fidelity to his chief. On the +evening of the 21st, Madame Lavalette, accompanied by her daughter and +her governess, Madame Dutoit, a lady of seventy years of age, presented +herself at the Conciergerie, to take a last farewell of her husband. +She arrived at the prison in a sedan chair. On this very day the +Procureur-general had given an order that no one should be admitted +without an order signed by himself; the greffier having, however, on +previous occasions been accustomed to receive Madame Lavalette with the +two ladies who now sought also to enter the cell, did not object to it; +so these three ladies proposed to take coffee with Lavalette. The under +gaoler was sent to a neighbouring cafe to obtain it, and during his +absence Lavalette exchanged dresses with his wife. He managed to pass +undetected out of the prison, accompanied by his daughter, and entered +the chair in which Madame Lavalette had arrived; which, owing to the +management of a faithful valet, had been placed so that no observation +could be made of the person entering it. The bearers found the chair +somewhat heavier than usual, but were ignorant of the change that had +taken place, and were glad to find, after proceeding a short distance, +that the individual within preferred walking home, and giving up the +sedan to the young lady. On the greffier entering the cell, he quickly +discovered the ruse, and gave the alarm; the under gaoler was +despatched to stop the chair, but he was too late. + +Lavalette had formed a friendship with a young Englishman of the name +of Bruce; to whom he immediately had recourse, throwing himself upon +his generosity and kind feeling for protection, which was +unhesitatingly afforded. But as Bruce could do nothing alone, he +consulted two English friends who had shown considerable sympathy for +the fate of Marshal Ney--men of liberal principles and undoubted +honour, and both of them officers in the British service: these were +Captain Hutchinson and General Sir Robert Wilson. To the latter was +committed the most difficult task, that of conveying out of France the +condemned prisoner; but for this achievement few men were better fitted +than Sir Robert Wilson, a man of fertile imagination, ready courage, +great assurance, and singular power of command over others; who spoke +French well, and was intimately acquainted with the military habits of +different nations. + +Sir Robert Wilson's career was a singular one: he had commenced life an +ardent enemy of Bonaparte, and it was upon his evidence, collected in +Egypt and published to the world, that the great general was for a long +time believed to have poisoned his wounded soldiers at Jaffa. +Afterwards he was attached to the Allied Sovereigns in their great +campaign; but upon his arrival in Paris, his views of public affairs +became suddenly changed; he threw off the yoke of preconceived +opinions, became an ardent liberal, and so continued to the last hours +of his life. The cause of this sudden change of opinion has never been +thoroughly known, but certain it is that on every occasion he supported +liberal opinions with a firmness and courage that astonished those who +had known him in his earlier days. + +Sir Robert undertook, in the midst of great dangers and difficulties, +to convey Lavalette out of France; having dressed him in the uniform of +an English officer, and obtained a passport under a feigned name, he +took him in a cabriolet past the barriers as far as Compiegne, where a +carriage was waiting for them. They passed through sundry examinations +at the fortified towns, but fortunately escaped; the great difficulty +being that, owing to Lavalette's having been the director of the posts, +his countenance was familiar to almost all the postmasters who supplied +relays of horses. At Cambray three hours were lost, from the gates +being shut, and at Valenciennes they underwent three examinations; but +eventually they got out of France. The police, however, became +acquainted with the fact that Lavalette had been concealed in the Rue +de Helder for three days, at the apartments of Mr. Bruce, and this +enabled them to trace all the circumstances, showing that it was at the +apartments of Hutchinson that Lavalette had changed his dress, and that +he had remained there the night before he quitted Paris. The +consequence was that Sir Robert Wilson, Bruce, and Hutchinson, were +tried for aiding the escape of a prisoner; and each of them was +condemned to three months' imprisonment: the under-gaoler, who had +evidently been well paid for services rendered, had two years' +confinement allotted to him. I went to see Sir Robert Wilson during his +stay in the Conciergerie--a punishment not very difficult to bear, but +which marked him as a popular hero for his life. A circumstance I +remember made a strong impression on me, proving that, however great +may be the courage of a man in trying circumstances, a trifling +incident might severely shake his nerves. I was accompanied by a +favourite dog of the Countess of Oxford, who, not being aware of the +high character of Sir Robert, or dissatisfied with his physiognomy, or +for some good canine reason, took a sudden antipathy, and inserted his +teeth into a somewhat fleshy part, but without doing much injury. The +effect, however, on the General was extraordinary: he was most earnest +to have the dog killed; but being certain that the animal was in no way +diseased, I avoided obeying his wishes, and fear that I thus lost the +good graces of the worthy man. + + + + +DUELLING IN FRANCE IN 1815 + + +When the restoration of the Bourbons took place, a variety of +circumstances combined to render duelling so common, that scarcely a +day passed without one at least of these hostile meetings. Amongst the +French themselves there were two parties always ready to distribute to +each other "des coups d'epees"--the officers of Napoleon's army and the +Bourbonist officers of the Garde du Corps. Then, again, there was the +irritating presence of the English, Russian, Prussian, and Austrian +officers in the French capital. In the duels between these soldiers +and the French, the latter were always the aggressors. At Tortoni's, +on the Boulevards, there was a room set apart for such quarrelsome +gentlemen, where, after these meetings, they indulged in riotous +champagne breakfasts. At this cafe might be seen all the most notorious +duellists, amongst whom I can call to mind an Irishman in the Garde du +Corps, W--, who was a most formidable fire-eater. The number of duels +in which he had been engaged would seem incredible in the present day: +he is said to have killed nine of his opponents in one year! + +The Marquis de H--, descended of an ancient family in Brittany, also in +the Garde du Corps, likewise fought innumerable duels, killing many of +his antagonists. I have heard that on entering the army he was not of +a quarrelsome disposition, but was laughed at, and bullied into +fighting by his brother officers; and, like a wild beast that had once +smelt blood, from the day of his first duel he took a delight in such +fatal scenes--being ever ready to rush at and quarrel with any one. +The marquis has now, I am glad to say, subsided into a very quiet, +placable, and peacemaking old gentleman; but at the time I speak of he +was much blamed for his duel with F--, a young man of nineteen. While +dining at a cafe he exclaimed, "J'ai envie de tuer quelq'un," and +rushed out into the street and to the theatres, trying to pick a +quarrel; but he was so well known that no one was found willing to +encounter him. At last, at the Theatre de la Porte St. Martin, he +grossly insulted this young man, who was, I think, an eleve of the +Ecole Polytechnique, and a duel took place, under the lamp-post near +the theatre, with swords. He ran F-- through the body, and left him +dead upon the ground. + +The late Marshal St. A-- and General J-- were great duellists at this +time, with a whole host of others whose names I forget. The meetings +generally took place in the Bois de Boulogne, and the favourite weapon +of the French was the small sword, or the sabre; but foreigners, in +fighting with the French, who were generally capital swordsmen, availed +themselves of the use of pistols. The ground for a duel with pistols +was marked out by indicating two spots, which were twenty-five paces +apart; the seconds then generally proceeded to toss up who should have +the first shot; when the principals were placed, and the word was given +to fire. + +The Cafe Foy, in the Palais Royal, was the principal place of +rendezvous for the Prussian officers, and to this cafe the French +officers on half-pay frequently proceeded in order to pick quarrels +with their foreign invaders; swords were quickly drawn, and frequently +the most bloody frays took place: these originated not in any personal +hatred, but from national jealousy on the part of the French, who could +not bear the sight of foreign soldiers in their capital; which, ruled +by the great captain of the age, had, like Rome, influenced the rest of +the world. On one occasion our Guards, who were on duty at the Palais +Royal, were called out to put an end to one of these encounters, in +which fourteen Prussians and ten Frenchmen were either killed or +wounded. + +The French took every opportunity of insulting the English; and very +frequently, I am sorry to say, those insults were not met in a manner +to do honour to our character, Our countrymen in general were very +pacific; but the most awkward customer the French ever came across was +my fellow-countryman the late gallant Colonel Sir Charles S--, of the +Engineers, who was ready for them with anything: sword, pistols, sabre, +or fists--he was good at all; and though never seeking a quarrel, he +would not put up with the slightest insult. He killed three Frenchmen +in Paris, in quarrels forced upon him. I remember, in October, 1815, +being asked by a friend to dine at Beauvillier's, in the Rue Richelieu, +when Sir Charles S--, who was well known to us, occupied a table at the +farther end of the room. About the middle of the dinner we heard a +most extraordinary noise, and, on looking up, perceived that it arose +from S--'s table; he was engaged in beating the head of a +smartly-dressed gentleman with one of the long French loaves so well +known to all who have visited France. Upon asking the reason of such +rough treatment on the part of our countryman, he said he would serve +all Frenchmen in the same manner if they insulted him. The offence, it +seems, proceeded from the person who had just been chastised in so +summary a manner: he had stared and laughed at S-- in a rude way, for +having ordered three bottles of wine to be placed upon his table. The +upshot of all this was a duel, which took place next day at a place +near Vincennes, and in which S-- shot the unfortunate jester. + +When Sir Charles returned to Valenciennes, where he commanded the +Engineers, he found on his arrival a French officer waiting to avenge +the death of his relation, who had only been shot ten days before at +Vincennes. They accordingly fought, before S-- had time even to shave +himself or eat his breakfast; he having only just arrived in his coupe +from Paris. The meeting took place in the fosse of the fortress, and +the first shot from S--'s pistol killed the French officer, who had +actually travelled in the diligence from Paris for the purpose, as he +boasted to his fellow-travellers, of killing an Englishman. + +I recollect dining, in 1816, at Hervey Aston's, at the Hotel Breteuil +in the Rue de Rivoli, opposite the Tuileries, where I met Seymour +Bathurst and Captain E--, of the Artillery, a very good-looking man. +After dinner, Mrs. Aston took us as far as Tortoni's, on her way to the +Opera. On entering the cafe, Captain E-- did not touch his hat +according to the custom of the country, but behaved himself, a la John +Bull, in a noisy and swaggering manner; upon which, General, then +Colonel J--, went up to E-- and knocked off his hat, telling him that +he hoped he would in future behave himself better. Aston, Bathurst, +and I, waited for some time, expecting to see E-- knock J-- down, or, +at all events, give him his card as a preliminary to a hostile meeting, +on receiving such an insult; but he did nothing. We were very much +disgusted and annoyed at a countryman's behaving in such a manner, and, +after a meeting at my lodgings, we recommended Captain E--, in the +strongest terms, to call out Colonel J--, but he positively refused to +do so, as he said it was against his principles. This specimen of the +white feather astonished us beyond measure. Captain E-- shortly after +received orders to start for India, where I believe he died of +cholera--in all probability of FUNK. + +I do not think that Colonel J-- would altogether have escaped with +impunity, after such a gratuitous insult to an English officer; but he +retired into the country almost immediately after the incident at +Tortoni's, and could not be found. + +There were many men in our army who did not thus disgrace the British +uniform when insulted by the French. I cannot omit the names of my old +friends Captain Burges, Mike Fitzgerald, Charles Hesse, and Thoroton; +each of whom, by their willingness to resent gratuitous offences, +showed that insults to Englishmen were not to be committed with +impunity. The last named officer having been grossly insulted by +Marshal V--, without giving him the slightest provocation, knocked him +down: this circumstance caused a great sensation in Paris, and brought +about a court of inquiry, which ended in the acquittal of Captain +Thoroton. My friend, B--, though he had only one leg, was a good +swordsman, and contrived to kill a man at Lyons who had jeered him +about the loss of his limb at Waterloo. My old and esteemed friend, +Mike Fitzgerald, son of Lord Edward and the celebrated Pamela, was +always ready to measure swords with the Frenchmen; and, after a brawl +at Silves', the then fashionable Bonapartist cafe at the corner of the +Rue Lafitte and the Boulevard, in which two of our Scotch countrymen +showed the white feather, he and another officer placed their own cards +over the chimney-piece in the principal room of the cafe, offering to +fight any man, or number of men, for the frequent public insult offered +to Britons. This challenge, however, was never answered. + +A curious duel took place at Beauvais during the occupation of France +by our army. A Captain B--, of one of our cavalry regiments quartered +in that town, was insulted by a French officer, B-- demanded +satisfaction, which was accepted; but the Frenchman would not fight +with pistols. B-- would not fight with swords; so at last it was agreed +that they should fight on horseback, with lances. The duel took place +in the neighbourhood of Beauvais, and a crowd assembled to witness it. +B-- received three wounds; but, by a lucky prod, eventually killed his +man. B-- was a fine-looking man and a good horseman. My late friend +the Baron de P--, so well known in Parisian circles, was second to the +Frenchman on this occasion. + +A friend of mine--certainly not of a quarrelsome turn, but considered +by his friends, on the contrary, as rather a good-natured man--had +three duels forced upon him in the course of a few weeks. He had +formed a liaison with a person whose extraordinary beauty got him into +several scrapes and disputes. In January 1 1817, a few days after this +acquaintance had been formed, Jack B--, well known at that time in the +best society in London, became madly in love with the fair lady, and +attempted one night to enter her private box at Drury Lane; this my +friend endeavoured to prevent; violent language was used, and a duel +was the consequence. The parties met a few miles from London, in a +field close to the Uxbridge Road, where B--, who was a hot-tempered +man, did his best to kill my friend; but, after the exchange of two +shots, without injury to either party, they were separated by their +seconds. B-- was the son of Lady Bridget B--, and the seconds were +Payne, uncle to George Payne, and Colonel Joddrell of the Guards. + +Soon after this incident, my friend accompanied the lady to Paris, +where they took up their residence at Meurice's, in the Rue de +l'Echiquier. The day after their arrival, they went out to take a walk +in the Palais Royal, and were followed by a half-pay officer of +Napoleon's army, Colonel D.--a notorious duellist, who observed to the +people about him that he was going to bully "un Anglais." This man was +exceedingly rude in his remarks, uttered in a loud voice; and after +every sort of insult expressed in words, he had the impudence to put +his arm round the lady's waist. My friend indignantly asked the +colonel what he meant; upon which the ruffian spat in my friend's face: +but he did not get off with impunity, for my friend, who had a crab +stick in his hand, caught him a blow on the side of the head, which +dropped him. The Frenchman jumped up, and rushed at the Englishman; +but they were separated by the bystanders. Cards were exchanged, and a +meeting was arranged to take place the next morning in the +neighbourhood of Fassy. When my friend, accompanied by his second, +Captain H--, of the 18th, came upon the ground, he found the colonel +boasting of the number of officers of all nations whom he had killed, +and saying, "I'll now complete my list by killing an Englishman." "Mon +petit tir aura bientot ton conte, car je tire fort bien." My friend +quietly said, "Je ne tire pas mal non plus," and took his place. The +colonel, who seems to have been a horrible ruffian, after a good deal +more swaggering and bravado, placed himself opposite, and, on the +signal being given, the colonel's ball went through my friend's +whiskers, whilst his ball pierced his adversary's heart, who fell dead +without a groan. + +This duel made much noise in Paris, and the survivor left immediately +for Chantilly, where he passed some time. On his return to Paris, the +second of the man who had been killed, Commander P., insulted and +challenged my friend. A meeting was accordingly agreed upon, and +pistols were again the weapons used. Again my friend won the toss, and +told his second, Captain H--, that he would not kill his antagonist, +though he richly deserved death for wishing to take the life of a +person who had never offended him; but that he would give him a lesson +which he should remember. My friend accordingly shot his antagonist in +the knee; and I remember to have seen him limping about the streets of +Paris twenty years after this event. + +When the result of this second duel was known, not less than eleven +challenges from Bonapartists were received by the gentleman in +question; but any further encounters were put a stop to by the Minister +of War, or the Duc d'Angouleme (I forget which), who threatened to +place the officers under arrest if they followed up this quarrel any +further. When the news reached England, the Duke of York said that my +friend could not have acted otherwise than he had done in the first +duel, considering the gross provocation that he had received; but he +thought it would have been better if the second duel had been avoided. + +In the deeds I have narrated, the English seem to have had the +advantage, but many others took place, in which Englishmen were killed +or wounded: these I have not mentioned, as their details do not recur +to my memory; but I do not remember a single occasion on which +Frenchmen were not the aggressors. At a somewhat later period than +this, the present Marquis of H--, then Lord B--, had a duel with the +son of the Bonapartist General L--. General S-- was Lord B--'s second, +and the principals exchanged several shots without injury to either +party. This duel, like the preceding, originated with the Frenchman, +who insulted the Englishman at the Theatre Francais in the most +unprovoked manner. At the present day our fiery neighbours are much +more amenable to reason, and if you are but civil, they will be civil +to you; duels consequently are of rare occurrence. Let us hope that the +frequency and the animus displayed in these hostile meetings originated +in national wounded vanity rather than in personal animosity. + +In the autumn of 1821 I was living in Paris, when my old friend H--, +Adjutant of the 1st Foot Guards, called upon me, and requested that I +would be his second in a duel with Mr. N--, an officer in the same +regiment. After hearing what he had to say, and thinking I could serve +him, I consented. It was agreed by Captain F--, R.N., of Pitmore, Mr. +N--'s second, that the duel should take place in the Bois de Boulogne. +After an exchange of shots, Captain F. and myself put an end to the +duel. The cause of the quarrel was that Mr. N--, now Lord G--, +proclaimed in the presence of Captain H-- and other officers, that a +lady, the wife of a brother officer, was "what she ought not to be." +When the report reached the ear of the Colonel, H. R. H. the Duke of +York requested Mr. N-- to leave the regiment, or be brought to a +court-martial; and then the duel took place, happily without bloodshed. +Both of the officers, it need scarcely be stated, behaved with courage +and coolness. + + + + +PISTOL SHOOTING + + +From 1820 to 1830 pistol shooting was not much practised. One evening, +in the Salon des Etrangers, I was introduced to General F--, a very +great duellist, and the terror of every regiment he commanded; he was +considered by Napoleon to be one of his best cavalry officers, but was +never in favour, in consequence of his duelling propensities. It was +currently reported that F--, in a duel with a very young officer lost +his toss, and his antagonist fired first at him; when, finding he had +not been touched, he deliberately walked close up to the young man, +saying, "Je plains ta mere," and shot him dead. But there were some +doubts of the truth of this story; and I trust, for the honour of +humanity, that it was either an invention or a gross exaggeration. + +The night I was introduced to F--, I was told to be on my guard, as he +was a dangerous character. He was very fond of practising with +pistols, and I frequently met him at Lapage's, the only place at that +time where gentlemen used to shoot. F--, in the year 1822, was very +corpulent, and wore an enormous cravat, in order, it was said, to hide +two scars received in battle. He was a very slow shot. + +The famous Junot, Governor-General of Paris, whom I never saw, was +considered to be the best shot in France. My quick shooting surprised +the habitues at Lapage's, where we fired at a spot chalked on the +figure of a Cossack painted on a board, and by word of command, +"One--two--three." F--, upon my firing and hitting the mark forty +times in succession, at the distance of twenty paces, shrieked out, +"Tonnerre de Dieu, c'est magnifique!" We were ever afterwards on good +terms, and supped frequently together at the Salon. At Manton's, on +one occasion, I hit the wafer nineteen times out of twenty. When my +battalion was on duty at the Tower in 1819, it happened to be very +cold, and much snow covered the parade and trees. For our amusement it +was proposed to shoot at the sparrows in the trees from Lady Jane +Grey's room; and it fell to my lot to bag eleven, without missing one: +this, I may say, without flattering myself, was considered the best +pistol-shooting ever heard of. + +Manton assigned as the reason why pistols had become the usual arms for +duels, the story (now universally laughed at) of Sheridan and Captain +Matthews fighting with swords on the ground, and mangling each other in +a frightful way. These combatants narrated their own story; but its +enormous exaggeration has been proved even on Sheridan's own evidence, +and the blood that poured from him seems merely to have been the +excellent claret of the previous night's debauch. The number of wounds +said to have been inflicted on each other was something so incredible +that nothing but the solemn asseverations of the parties could have +gained belief; and in those days Sheridan had not obtained that +reputation for rodomontade which he afterwards enjoyed by universal +consent. + + + + +THE FAUBOURG ST. GERMAIN + + +The distinguishing characteristics of the residents of the "noble +Faubourg," as it was called at the time I am speaking of, were +indomitable pride and exclusiveness, with a narrow-minded ignorance of +all beyond the circle in which its members moved. In our day of +comparative equality and general civility, no one who has not arrived +at my age, and lived in Paris, can form any idea of the insolence and +hauteur of the higher classes of society in 1815. The glance of +unutterable disdain which the painted old duchesse of the Restoration +cast upon the youthful belles of the Chausse d'Antin, or the handsome +widows of Napoleon's army of heroes, defies description. Although often +responded to by a sarcastic sneer at the antediluvian charms of the +emigree, yet the look of contempt and disgust often sank deep into the +victim's heart, leaving there germs which showed themselves fifteen +years later in the revolution of 1830. In those days, this privileged +class was surrounded by a charmed circle, which no one could by any +means break through. Neither personal attractions nor mental +qualifications formed a passport into that exclusive society; to enter +which the small nobility of the provinces, or the nouveau riche, sighed +in vain. It would have been easier for a young Guardsman to make his +way into the Convent des Oiseaux--the fashionable convent in +Paris--than for any of these parvenus to force an entrance into the +Faubourg St. Germain. + +One of the first acts which followed the Restoration of the Bourbons +was the grant of a pecuniary indemnity, amounting to a milliard, or +forty millions sterling, to be distributed amongst the emigres who had +lost fortunes or estates by their devotion to the royal family. They +had now, therefore, the means of receiving their friends, political +partisans, and foreigners, with more than usual splendour; and it must +be admitted that those who were thought worthy to be received were +treated like spoiled children, and petted and flattered to their +heart's content. In their own houses they were really des grands +seigneurs, and quite incapable of treating their invited guests with +the insolence that became the fashion among the Jewish parvenus during +the reign of the "citizen king." It is one thing to disdain those whom +one does not think worthy of our acquaintance, and another to insult +those whom one has thought proper to invite. + +In their own houses, the inhabitants of the Faubourg St. Germain were +scrupulously polite: even if some enterprising foreigner should have +got in surreptitiously, as long as he was under his host's roof he was +treated with perfect courtesy; though ignominiously "cut" for the +remainder of his days. All this was not very amiable; but the +inhabitants of the "noble Faubourg" were never distinguished for their +amiability. Their best characteristics were the undaunted courage with +which they met death upon the scaffold, and the cheerfulness and +resignation with which they ate the bitter bread of exile. In general, +les grandes dames were not remarkable for their personal attractions, +nor for the elegance of their appearance or dress. The galaxy of +handsome women that formed the court of the Emperor had perhaps sent +beauty somewhat out of fashion; for the high-born ladies who took their +place were what we should call dowdy, and had nothing distinguished in +their appearance. Many of those who belonged to the most ancient +families were almost vulgar in outward form and feature: their manner +had a peculiar off-hand, easy style; and they particularly excelled in +setting down any unlucky person who had happened to offend them. Their +main object, at this time, was to stand well at court, therefore they +adapted themselves to circumstances, and could be devout with the +Dauphine and sceptical with Louis the Eighteenth. + +The men of the aristocracy of the Revolution were less clever and +satirical than the women; but, on the other hand, they had far more of +the distinguished bearing and graceful urbanity of the grands seigneurs +of the olden time. The emigre nobles would have gazed with unutterable +horror at their degenerate descendants of the present day; but these +young, booted, bearded, cigar-smoking scions of la jeune France would +have run round their courteous, but, perhaps, rather slow ancestors, in +all the details of daily life. + +The principal houses of reception in those days were those of the +Montmorencys, the Richelieus, Birons, Rohans, Goutaut Talleyrands, +Beauffremonts, Luxemburgs, Crillons, Choiseuls, Chabots, Fitzjames, +Grammonts, Latours de Pin, Coislins, and Maillys. Most of these +mansions are now occupied as public offices, or Jesuitical schools, or +by foreign Ministers. Those who are now supposed to be the great people +of the Faubourg St. Germain are nothing more than actors, who put on a +motley dress and appear before the public with the view of attracting +that attention to which they are not entitled; it is, therefore, an +error to suppose that the modern faubourg is anything like what it was +during the days of the Bourbons. At the present moment the only +practical aid the inhabitants of this locality can accord to the +legitimist cause in Europe, is by getting up subscriptions for the +Papacy, and such exiled Sovereigns as Francis II.; and, in order to do +so, they generally address themselves to married women and widows: in +fact, it is from the purses of susceptible females, many of whom are +English, that donations are obtained for legitimacy and Popery in +distress. + +It is to be regretted that the most renowned and ancient families of +France have, in society and politics, yielded their places to another +class. That refinement of perception, sensitiveness, and gentle +bearing, which take three or four generations to produce, are no longer +the characteristics of Parisian society. The gilded saloons of the +Tuileries, and those magnificent hotels whose architects have not been +geniuses of art, but the children of Mammon, are occupied by the Jew +speculator, the political parasite, the clever schemer, and those +who--whilst following the fortune of the great man who rules +France--are nothing better than harpies. Most of these pretended +devotees of imperialism have, speaking figuratively, their portmanteaus +perpetually packed, ready for flight. The Emperor's good nature, as +regards his entourage, has never allowed him to get rid of men who, +perhaps, ought not to be seen so near the Imperial throne of France. +The weakest feature of Napoleon III.'s Government is the conspicuous +presence of a few persons in high places, whose cupidity is so +extravagant that, in order to gratify their lust of wealth, they would +not hesitate, indirectly at least, to risk a slur on the reputation of +their master and benefactor, in order to gain their own ends. + + + + +THE SALON DES ETRANGERS IN PARIS + + +When the allies entered Paris, after the Battle of Waterloo, the +English gentlemen sought, instinctively, something like a club. Paris, +however, possessed nothing of the sort; but there was a much more +dangerous establishment than the London clubs, namely, a rendezvous for +confirmed gamblers. The Salon des Etrangers was most gorgeously +furnished, provided with an excellent kitchen and wines, and was +conducted by the celebrated Marquis de Livry, who received the guests +and did the honours with a courtesy which made him famous throughout +Europe. The Marquis presented an extraordinary likeness to the Prince +Regent of England, who actually sent Lord Fife over to Paris to +ascertain this momentous fact. The play which took place in these +saloons was frequently of the most reckless character; large fortunes +were often lost, the losers disappearing, never more to be heard of. +Amongst the English habitues were the Hon. George T--, the late Henry +Baring, Lord Thanet, Tom Sowerby, Cuthbert, Mr. Steer, Henry Broadwood, +and Bob Arnold. + +The Hon. George T--, who used to arrive from London with a very +considerable letter of credit expressly to try his luck at the Salon +des Etrangers, at length contrived to lose his last shilling at rouge +et noir. When he had lost everything he possessed in the world, he got +up and exclaimed, in an excited manner, "If I had Canova's Venus and +Adonis from Alton Towers, my uncle's country seat, it should be placed +on the rouge, for black has won fourteen times running!" + +The late Henry Baring was more fortunate at hazard than his countryman, +but his love of gambling was the cause of his being excluded from the +banking establishment. Col. Sowerby, of the Guards, was one of the +most inveterate players in Paris; and, as is frequently the case with a +fair player, a considerable loser. But, perhaps, the most incurable +gamester amongst the English was Lord Thanet, whose income was not less +than 50,000L. a year, every farthing of which he lost at play. +Cuthbert dissipated the whole of his fortune in like manner. In fact, +I do not remember any instance where those who spent their time in this +den did not lose all they possessed. + +The Marquis de L-- had a charming villa at Romainville, near Paris, to +which, on Sundays, he invited not only those gentlemen who were the +most prodigal patrons of his salon, but a number of ladies, who were +dancers and singers conspicuous at the opera; forming a society of the +strangest character, the male portion of which were bent on losing +their money, whilst the ladies were determined to get rid of whatever +virtue they might still have left. The dinners on these occasions were +supplied by the chef of the Salon des Etrangers, and were such as few +renommes of the kitchens of France could place upon the table. + +Amongst the constant guests was Lord Fife, the intimate friend of +George IV., with Mdlle. Noblet, a danseuse, who gave so much +satisfaction to the habitues of the pit at the opera, both in Paris and +London. His lordship spent a fortune upon her; his presents in jewels, +furniture, articles of dress, and money, exceeded 40,000L. In return +for all this generosity, Lord Fife asked nothing more than the lady's +flattery and professions of affection. + +Hall Standish was always to be seen in this circle; and his own hotel +in the Rue le Pelletier was often lighted up, and fetes given to the +theatrical and demi-monde. Standish died in Spain, leaving his gallery +of pictures to Louis Philippe. + +Amonst others who visited the Salon des Etrangers were Sir Francis +Vincent, Gooch, Green, Ball Hughes, and many others whose names I no +longer remember. Of foreigners the most conspicuous were Blucher, +General Ormano, father-in-law of Count Walewski, Pacto, and Clari, as +well as most of the ambassadors at the court of the Tuileries. As at +Crockford's, a magnificent supper was provided every night for all who +thought proper to avail themselves of it. The games principally played +were rouge et noir and hazard; the former producing an immense profit, +for not only were the whole of the expenses of this costly +establishment defrayed by the winnings of the bank, but a very large +sum was paid annually to the municipality of Paris. I recollect a +young Irishman, Mr. Gough, losing a large fortune at this tapis vert. +After returning home about two A.M., he sat down and wrote a letter, +giving reasons as to why he was about to commit suicide: these, it is +needless to say, were simply his gambling reverses. A pistol shot +through the brain terminated his existence. Sir Francis Vincent--a man +of old family and considerable fortune--was another victim of this +French hell, who contrived to get rid of his magnificent property, and +then disappeared from society. + +In calling up my recollections of the Salon des Etrangers, some forty +years since, I see before me the noble form and face of the Hungarian +Count Hunyady, the chief gambler of the day, who created considerable +sensation in his time. He became tres a la mode: his horses, carriage, +and house were considered perfect, while his good looks were the theme +of universal admiration. There were ladies' cloaks "a la Huniade," +whilst the illustrious Borel, of the Rocher de Cancaile, named new +dishes after the famous Hungarian. Hunyady's luck for a long time was +prodigious: no bank could resist his attacks; and at one time he must +have been a winner of nearly two millions of francs. His manners were +particularly calm and gentlemanlike; he sat apparently unmoved, with +his right hand in the breast of his coat, whilst thousands depended +upon the turning of a card or the hazard of a die. His valet, however, +confided to some indiscreet friend that his nerves were not of such +iron temper as he would have made people believe, and that the count +bore in the morning the bloody marks of his nails, which he had pressed +into his chest in the agony of an unsuccessful turn of fortune. The +streets of Paris were at that time not very safe; consequently the +Count was usually attended to his residence by two gensdarmes, in order +to prevent his being attacked by robbers. Hunyady was not wise enough +(what gamblers are?) to leave Paris with his large winnings, but +continued as usual to play day and night. A run of bad luck set in +against him, and he lost not only the whole of the money he had won, +but a very large portion of his own fortune. He actually borrowed 50L. +of the well-known Tommy Garth--who was himself generally more in the +borrowing than the lending line--to take him back to Hungary. + + + + +THE DUCHESS DE BERRI AT MASS AT THE CHAPELLE ROYALE + + +I had the honour of being invited to an evening party at the Tuileries +in the winter of 1816, and was in conversation with the Countess de +l'Espinasse, when the Duchess did me the honour to ask me if I intended +going to St. Germain to hunt. I replied in the negative, not having +received an invitation; upon which the Duchess graciously observed that +if I would attend mass the following morning in the Royal Chapel, she +would manage it. Accordingly I presented myself there dressed in a +black coat and trousers and white neckcloth; but at the entrance, a +huge Swiss told me I could not enter the chapel without knee-buckles. +At that moment Alexandre Gerardin, the grand veneur, came to my +assistance; he spoke to the Duchess, who immediately gave instructions +that Mr. Gronow was to be admitted "sans culottes." The card for the +hunt came; but the time to get the uniform was so short, that I was +prevented going to St. Germain. At that time the fascinating Duchess +de Berri was the theme of admiration of everyone. All who could obtain +admission to the chapelle were charmed with the grace with which, on +passing through the happy group who had been fortunate enough to gain +the privilege, she cast her glance of recognition upon those who were +honoured with her notice. When again I had the honour of being in the +presence of the Duchess, she inquired whether the hunt amused me; and +upon my telling her that I had been unable to go, in consequence of the +want of the required uniform, the Duchess archly remarked "Ah! M. le +Capitaine, parceque vous n'avez pas jamais des culottes." + + + + +LORD WESTMORELAND + + +When I was presented at the Court of Louis XVIII., Lord Westmoreland, +the grandfather of the present lord, accompanied Sir Charles Stewart to +the Tuileries. On our arrival in the room where the King was, we formed +ourselves into a circle, when the King good-naturedly inquired after +Lady Westmoreland, from whom his lordship was divorced, and whether she +was in Paris. Upon this, the noble lord looked sullen, and refused to +reply to the question put by the King. His Majesty, however, repeated +it, when Lord Westmoreland hallooed out, in bad French, "Je ne sais +pas, je ne sais pas, je ne sais pas." Louis, rising, said, "Assez, +milord; assez, milord." + +On one occasion, Lord Westmoreland, who was Lord Privy Seal, being +asked what office he held, replied, "Le Chancelier est le grand sceau +(Sot); moi je suis le petit sceau d' Angleterre." On another occasion, +he wished to say "I would if I could, but I can't," and rendered it, +"Je voudrais si je coudrais, mais je ne cannais pas." + + + + +ALDERMAN WOOD + + +Among the many English who then visited Paris was Alderman Wood, who +had previously filled the office of Lord Mayor of London. He ordered a +hundred visiting cards, inscribing upon them, "Alderman Wood, feu Lord +Maire de Londres," which he had largely distributed amongst people of +rank--having translated the word "late" into "feu," which I need hardly +state means "dead." + + + + +THE OPERA + + +A few years after the restoration of the Bourbons, the opera was the +grand resort of all the fashionable world. Sostennes de la +Rochefoucauld was Minister of the Household, and his office placed him +at the head of all the theatres. M. de la Rochefoucauld was +exceedingly polite to our countrymen, and gave permission to most of +our dandies to go behind the scenes, where Bigottini, Fanny Bias, +Vestris, Anatole, Paul, Albert, and the other principal dancers, +congregated. One of our countrymen, having been introduced by M. de la +Rochefoucauld to Mademoiselle Bigottini, the beautiful and graceful +dancer, in the course of conversation with this gentleman, asked him in +what part of the theatre he was placed; upon which he replied, +"Mademoiselle, dans un loge rotie," instead of "grillee." The lady +could not understand what he meant, until his introducer explained the +mistake, observing, "Les diables des Anglais pensent toujours a leur +Rosbif." + + + + +FANNY ELSSLER + + +In 1822 I saw this beautiful person for the first time. She was +originally one of the figurantes at the opera at Vienna, and was at +this time about fourteen years of age, and of delicate and graceful +proportions. Her hair was auburn, her eyes blue and large, and her +face wore an expression of great tenderness. Some years after the Duke +of Reichstadt, the son of the great Napoleon, was captivated with her +beauty; in a word, he became her acknowledged admirer, while her +marvellous acting and dancing drew around her all the great men of the +German court. The year following she went to Naples, where a brother +of the King fell desperately in love with her. Mademoiselle Elssler +went soon afterwards to Paris, where her wit electrified all the +fashionable world, and her dancing and acting in the Diable Boiteux +made the fortune of the entrepreneur. In London her success was not so +striking; but her cachucha will long be remembered, as one of the most +exquisite exhibitions of female grace and power ever seen at her +Majesty's Theatre, and in expressiveness, her pantomimic powers were +unrivalled. + + + + +CHARLES X. AND LOUIS PHILIPPE + + +When the father of the present ex-King of Naples came to Paris during +the reign of Charles X., Louis Philippe, then Duke of Orleans, living +at the Palais Royal, gave a very grand fete to his royal cousin. I had +the honour to be one of the party invited, and witnessed an +extraordinary scene, which I think worth relating. About eleven +o'clock, when the rooms were crowded, Charles X. arrived, with a +numerous suite. On entering, he let fall his pocket-handkerchief--it +was then supposed by accident; upon this, Louis Philippe fell upon one +knee and presented the handkerchief to his Sovereign; who smiled and +said, "Merci, mon cher; merci." This incident was commented upon for +many days, and several persons said that the handkerchief was purposely +thrown down to see whether Louis Philippe would pick it up. + +At that period, the Orleans family were en mauvais odeur at the +Tuileries, and consequently, this little incident created considerable +gossip among the courtly quidnuncs. I remember that when Lord William +Bentinck was asked what he thought of the circumstance, he +good-naturedly answered, "The King most probably wanted to know how the +wind blew." + +It was known that a large number of persons hostile to the court were +invited; and among these were Casimir Perier, the Dupins, Lafitte, +Benjamin Constant, and a host of others who a few years afterwards +drove out the eldest branch that occupied the throne to make way for +Louis Philippe. + + + + +LORD THANET + + +The late Lord Thanet, celebrated for having been imprisoned in the +Tower for his supposed predilection for republicanism, passed much of +his time in Paris, particularly at the Salon des Etrangers. His +lordship's infatuation for play was such, that when the gambling-tables +were closed, he invited those who remained to play at chicken-hazard +and ecarte; the consequence was that, one night, he left off a loser of +120,000L. When told of his folly and the probability of his having been +cheated, he exclaimed, "Then I consider myself lucky in not having lost +twice that sum!" + + + + +LORD GRANVILLE, THE BRITISH AMBASSADOR + + +Soon after Lord Granville's appointment, a strange occurrence took +place at one of the public gambling-houses. A colonel, on half-pay, in +the British service, having lost every farthing that he possessed, +determined to destroy himself, together with all those who were +instrumental in his ruin. Accordingly, he placed a canister full of +fulminating powder under the table, and set it on fire: it blew up, but +fortunately no one was hurt. The police arrested the colonel, and +placed him in prison; he was, however, through the humane interposition +of our ambassador, sent out of France as a madman. + + + + +MARSHAL BLUCHER + + +Marshal Blucher, though a very fine fellow, was a very rough diamond, +with the manners of a common soldier. On his arrival in Paris, he went +every day to the salon, and played the highest stakes at rouge et noir. +The salon, during the time that the marshal remained in Paris, was +crowded by persons who came to see him play. His manner of playing was +anything but gentlemanlike, and when he lost, he used to swear in +German at everything that was French, looking daggers at the croupiers. +He generally managed to lose all he had about him, also all the money +his servant, who was waiting in the ante-chamber, carried. I recollect +looking attentively at the manner in which he played; he would put his +right hand into his pocket, and bring out several rouleaus of +Napoleons, and throw them on the red or black. If he won the first +coup, he would allow it to remain; but when the croupier stated that +the table was not responsible for more than ten thousand francs, then +Blucher would roar like a lion, and rap out oaths in his native +language, which would doubtless have met with great success at +Billingsgate, if duly translated: fortunately, they were not heeded, as +they were not understood by the lookers-on. + +At that period there were rumours--and reliable ones, too--that Blucher +and the Duke of Wellington were at loggerheads. The Prussians wanted +to blow up the Bridge of Jena; but the Duke sent a battalion of our +regiment to prevent it, and the Prussian engineers who were mining the +bridge were civilly sent away: this circumstance created some ill-will +between the chiefs. + +A sort of congress of the Emperors of Austria and Russia and the King +of Prussia, with Blucher and Wellington, met at the Hotel of Foreign +Affairs, on the Boulevard, when, after much ado, the Duke of Wellington +emphatically declared that if any of the monuments were destroyed he +would take the British army from Paris: this threat had the desired +effect. Nevertheless, Blucher levied contributions on the poor +Parisians, and his army was newly clothed. The Bank of France was +called upon to furnish him with several thousand pounds, which, it was +said, were to reimburse him for the money lost at play. This, with +many other instances of extortion and tyranny, was the cause of +Blucher's removal, and he took his departure by order of the King. + +I once saw a regiment of Prussians march down the Rue St. Honore when a +line of half-a-dozen hackney-coachmen were quietly endeavouring to make +their way in a contrary direction; suddenly some of the Prussian +soldiers left their ranks, and with the butt-end of their muskets +knocked the poor coachmen off their seats. I was in uniform, and felt +naturally ashamed at what I had seen: some Frenchmen came up to me and +requested me to report what I had witnessed to the Duke of Wellington; +but, upon my telling them it would be of no avail, they one and all +said the English ought to blush at having allies and friends capable of +such wanton brutality. + +The fact is that the French had behaved so ill at Berlin, after the +Battle of Jena, in 1806, that the Prussians had sworn to be revenged, +if ever they had the opportunity to visit upon France the cruelties, +the extortion, insults, and hard usage their own capital had suffered; +and they kept their word. + +One afternoon, when upwards of a hundred Prussian officers entered the +galleries of the Palais Royal, they visited all the shops in turn, +insulting the women and striking the men, breaking the windows and +turning everything upside down: nothing, indeed, could have been more +outrageous than their conduct. When information was brought to Lord +James Hay of what was going on, he went out, and arrived just as a +troop of French gensdarmes were on the point of charging the Prussians, +then in the garden. He lost no time in calling out his men, and, +placing himself between the gensdarmes and the officers, said he should +fire upon the first who moved. The Prussians then came to him and said, +"We had all vowed to return upon the heads of the French in Paris the +insults that they had heaped upon our countrymen in Berlin; we have +kept our vow, and we will now retire." Nothing could equal the bitter +hatred which existed, and still exists, between the French and the +Prussians. + + + + +JEW MONEY-LENDERS + + +One of the features of high society after the long war was a passion +for gambling; so universal was it that there are few families of +distinction who do not even to the present day retain unpleasant +reminiscences of the period. When people become systematic players, +they are often obliged to raise money at an exorbitant interest, and +usually under such circumstances fly to the Israelites. I have often +heard players wish these people in almost every uncomfortable quarter +of the known and unknown worlds. The mildness and civility with which +the Christian in difficulties always addresses the moneyed Israelite, +contrast forcibly with the opprobrious epithets lavished on him when +the day for settlement comes. When a man requires money to pay his +debts of honour, and borrows from the Jews, he knows perfectly well +what he is doing; though one of the last things which foolish people +learn is how to trace their own errors to their proper source. Hebrew +money-lenders could not thrive if there were no borrowers: the gambler +brings about his own ruin. The characteristics of the Jew are never +more perceptible than when they come in contact with gentlemen to ruin +them. On such occasions, the Jew is humble, supercilious, blunderingly +flattering; and if he can become the agent of any dirty work, is only +too happy to be so, in preference to a straightforward and honest +transaction. No man is more vulgarly insulting to those dependent upon +him than the Jew, who invariably cringes to his superiors; above all, +he is not a brave man. It will be seen, from these observations, what +is my opinion of a class of traders who in all parts of the world are +sure to embrace what may be termed illicit and illegitimate commerce. +At the same time, I suspect that the Jew simply avails himself of the +weakness and vices of mankind, and will continue in this line of +business so long as imprudent and extravagant humanity remains what it +is. + +Two usurers, who obtained much notoriety from the high game which was +brought to them, were men known by the names of Jew King and Solomon. +These were of very different characters: King was a man of some talent, +and had good taste in the fine arts. He had made the peerage a +complete study, knew the exact position of everyone who was connected +with a coronet, the value of their property, how deeply the estates +were mortgaged, and what encumbrances weighed upon them. Nor did his +knowledge stop there: by dint of sundry kind attentions to the clerks +of the leading banking-houses, he was aware of the balances they kept; +and the credit attached to their names; so that, to the surprise of the +borrower, he let him into the secrets of his own actual position. He +gave excellent dinners, at which many of the highest personages of the +realm were present; and when they fancied that they were about to meet +individuals whom it would be upon their conscience to recognize +elsewhere, were not a little amused to find clients quite as highly +placed as themselves, and with purses quite as empty. King had a +well-appointed house in Clarges Street; but it was in a villa upon the +banks of the Thames, which had been beautifully fitted up by Walsh +Porter in the Oriental style, and which I believe is now the seat of +one of the most favoured votaries of the Muses, Sir Edward Bulwer +Lytton, that his hospitalities were most lavishly and luxuriously +exercised. Here it was that Sheridan told his host that he liked his +table better than his multiplication table; to which his host, who was +not only witty, but often the cause of wit in others, replied, "I know, +Mr. Sheridan: your taste is more for Jo-king than for Jew King," +alluding to King, the actor's admirable performance in Sheridan's +School for Scandal. + +King kept a princely establishment, and a splendid equipage which he +made to serve as an advertisement of his calling. A yellow carriage, +with panels emblazoned with a well-executed shield and armorial +bearings, and drawn by two richly-caparisoned steeds, the Jehu on the +box wearing, according to the fashion of those days, a coat of many +capes, a powdered wig, and gloves a l'Henri Quatre, and two spruce +footmen in striking but not gaudy livery, with long canes in their +hands, daily made its appearance in the Park from four to seven in the +height of the season. Mrs. King was a fine-looking woman, and being +dressed in the height of fashion, she attracted innumerable gazers, who +pronounced the whole turn-out to be a work of refined taste, and worthy +a man of "so much principal and interest." + +It happened that during one of these drives, Lord William L., a man of +fashion, but, like other of the great men of the day, an issuer of +paper money discounted at high rates by the usurers, was thrown off his +horse. Mr. and Mrs. King immediately quitted the carriage and placed +the noble lord within. On this circumstance being mentioned in the +clubs, Brummell observed it was only "a Bill Jewly (duly) taken up and +honoured." + +Solomon indulged in many aliases, being known by the names of +Goldsched, Slowman, as well as by other noms de guerre; and he was +altogether of a different cast from King, being avaricious, +distrustful, and difficult to deal with. He counted upon his gains +with all the grasping feverishness of the miser; and owing to his great +caution he had an immense command of money, which the confidence of his +brethren placed in his hands. To the jewellers, the coachmakers, and +the tailors, who were obliged to give exorbitant accommodation to their +aristocratic customers, and were eventually paid in bills of an +incredibly long date, Solomon was of inestimable use. Hamlet, +Houlditch, and other dependants upon the nobility, were often compelled +to seek his assistance. + +Hamlet, the jeweller, was once looked up to as the richest tradesman at +the West End. His shop at the corner of Cranbourne Alley exhibited a +profuse display of gold and silver plate, whilst in the jewel room +sparkled diamonds, amethysts, rubies, and other precious stones, in +every variety of setting. He was constantly called on to advance money +upon such objects, which were left in pawn only to be taken out on the +occasion of a great banquet, or when a court dress was to be worn. His +gains were enormous, though it was necessary to give long credit; and +his bills for twenty or thirty thousand pounds were eagerly discounted. +In fact, he was looked upon as a second Croesus, or a Crassus, who +could have bought the Roman empire; and his daughter's hand was sought +in marriage by peers. But all at once the mighty bubble collapsed. He +had advanced money to the Duke of York, and had received as security +property in Nova Scotia, consisting chiefly of mines, which, when he +began to work them, turned out valueless, after entailing enormous +expense. Loss upon loss succeeded, and in the end bankruptcy. I have +even heard that this man, once so envied for his wealth, died the +inmate of an almshouse. + +Some persons of rank, tempted by the offers of these usurers, lent +their money to them at a very high interest. A lady of some position +lent a thousand pounds to King, on the promise of receiving annually 15 +per cent.; which he continued to pay with the utmost regularity. Her +son being in want of money applied for a loan of a thousand pounds, +which King granted at the rate of 80 per cent.; lending him of course +his mother's money. In a moment of tenderness the young man told his +tale to her, when she immediately went to King and upbraided him for +not making her a party to his gains, and demanded her money back. King +refused to return it, saying that he had never engaged to return the +principal; and dared her to take any proceedings against him, as, being +a married woman, she had no power over the money. She, however, +acknowledged it to her husband, obtained his forgiveness, and after +threats of legal interference, King was compelled to refund the money, +besides losing much of his credit and popularity by the transaction. + + + + +LORD ALVANLEY + + +To Lord Alvanley was awarded the reputation, good or bad, of all the +witticisms in the clubs after the abdication of the throne of dandyism +by Brummell; who, before that time, was always quoted as the sayer of +good things, as Sheridan had been some time before. Lord Alvanley had +the talk of the day completely under his control, and was the arbiter +of the school for scandal in St. James's. A bon mot attributed to him +gave rise to the belief that Solomon caused the downfall and +disappearance of Brummell; for on some friends of the prince of dandies +observing that if he had remained in London something might have been +done for him by his old associates, Alvanley replied, "He has done +quite right to be off: it was Solomon's judgment." + +When Sir Lumley Skeffington, who had been a lion in his day--and whose +spectacle, the Sleeping Beauty, produced at a great expense on the +stage, had made him looked up to as deserving all the blandishments of +fashionable life--re-appeared some years after his complete downfall +and seclusion in the bench, he fancied that by a very gay external +appearance he would recover his lost position; but he found his old +friends very shy of him. Alvanley being asked, on one occasion, who +that smart-looking individual was, answered, "It is a second edition of +the Sleeping Beauty bound in calf, richly gilt, and illustrated by many +cuts." + +One of the gay men of the day, named Judge, being incarcerated in the +Bench, some one observed he believed it was the first instance of a +Judge reaching the bench without being previously called to the bar; to +which Alvanley replied, "Many a bad judge has been taken from the bench +and placed at the bar." He used to say that Brummell was the only +Dandelion that flourished year after year in the hot-bed of the +fashionable world: he had taken root. Lions were generally annual, but +Brummell was perennial, and quoted a letter from Walter Scott: "If you +are celebrated for writing verses, or for slicing cucumbers, for being +two feet taller, or two feet less, than any other biped, for acting +plays when you should be whipped at school, or for attending schools +and institutions when you should be preparing for your grave, your +notoriety becomes a talisman, an 'open sesame,' which gives way to +everything, till you are voted a bore, and discarded for a new +plaything." This appeared in a letter from Walter Scott to the Earl of +Dalkeith, when he himself, Belzoni, Master Betty the Roscius, and old +Joseph Lancaster, the schoolmaster, were the lions of the season, and +were one night brought together by my indefatigable old friend, Lady +Cork, who was "the Lady of Lyons" of that day. + + + + +GENERAL PALMER + + +This excellent man had the last days of his life embittered by the +money-lenders. He had commenced his career surrounded by every +circumstance that could render existence agreeable; fortune, in his +early days, having smiled most benignantly on him. His father was a +man of considerable ability, and was to the past generation what +Rowland Hill is in the present day--the great benefactor of +correspondents. He first proposed and carried out the mail-coach +system; and letters, instead of being at the mercy of postboys, and a +private speculation in many instances, became the care of Government, +and were transmitted under its immediate direction. + +During the lifetime of Mr. Palmer, the reward due to him for his +suggestions and his practical knowledge was denied; and he accordingly +went to Bath, and became the manager and proprietor of the theatre, +occasionally treading the boards himself, for which his elegant +deportment and good taste eminently qualified him. He has often been +mistaken for Gentleman Palmer, whose portrait is well drawn in the +Memoir of Sheridan by Dr. Sigmond, prefixed to Bohn's edition of +Sheridan's plays. Mr. Palmer was successful in his undertaking, and at +his death, his son found himself the inheritor of a handsome fortune, +and became a universal favourite in Bath. + +The corporation of that city, consisting of thirty apothecaries, were, +in those borough-mongering days, the sole electors to the House of +Commons, and finding young Palmer hospitable, and intimate with the +Marquis of Bath and Lord Camden, and likewise desiring for themselves +and their families free access to the most agreeable theatre in +England, returned him to Parliament. He entered the army and became a +conspicuous officer in the 10th Hussars, which, being commanded by the +Prince Regent, led him at once into Carlton House, the Pavilion at +Brighton, and consequently into the highest society of the country; for +which his agreeable manners, his amiable disposition, and his +attainments, admirably qualified him. His fortune was sufficiently +large for all his wants; but, unfortunately, as it turned out, the +House of Commons voted to him, as the representative of his father, +100,000L., which he was desirous of laying out to advantage. + +A fine opportunity, as he imagined, had presented itself to him; for, +in travelling in the diligence from Lyons to Paris, a journey then +requiring three days, he met a charming widow, who told a tale that had +not only a wonderful effect upon his susceptible heart, but upon his +amply-filled purse. She said her husband, who had been the proprietor +of one of the finest estates in the neighbourhood of Bordeaux, was just +dead, and that she was on her way to Paris to sell the property, that +it might be divided, according to the laws of France, amongst the +family. Owing, however, to the absolute necessity of forcing a sale, +that which was worth an enormous sum would realize one-quarter only of +its value. She described the property as one admirably fitted for the +production of wine; that it was, in fact, the next estate to the +Chateau Lafitte, and would prove a fortune to any capitalist. The +fascinations of this lady, and the temptation of enormous gain to the +speculator, impelled the gallant colonel to offer his services to +relieve her from her embarrassment; and by the time the diligence +arrived in Paris, he had become the proprietor of a fine domain, which +was soon irrevocably fixed on him by the lady's notary, in return for a +large sum of money: which, had the colonel proved a man of business, +would no doubt have been amply repaid, and might have become the source +of great wealth. + +Palmer, however, conscious of his inability, looked around him for an +active agent, and believed he had found one in a Mr. Gray, a man of +captivating manners and good connexions, but almost as useless a person +as the General himself. Fully confident in his own abilities, Gray had +already been concerned in many speculations, not one of which had ever +succeeded, but all had led to the demolition of large fortunes. +Plausible in his address, and possessing many of those superficial +qualities that please the multitude, he appeared to be able to secure +for the claret--which was the production of the estate--a large +clientele. Palmer's claret, under his auspices, began to be talked of +in the clubs; and the bon vivant was anxious to secure a quantity of +this highly-prized wine. The patronage of the Prince Regent was +considered essential, who, with his egotistical good nature, and from a +kindly feeling for Palmer, gave a dinner at Carlton House, when a fair +trial was to be given to his claret. A select circle of gastronomes +was to be present, amongst whom was Lord Yarmouth, well known in those +days by the appellation of "Red-herrings," from his rubicund whiskers, +hair, and face, and from the town of Yarmouth deriving its principal +support from the importation from Holland of that fish; Sir Benjamin +Bloomfield, Sir William Knighton, and Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, were also of +the party. The wine was produced, and was found excellent, and the +spirits of the party ran high; the light wine animating them without +intoxication. The Prince was delighted, and, as usual upon such +occasions, told some of his best stories, quoted Shakspeare, and was +particularly happy upon the bouquet of the wine as suited "to the holy +Palmer's kiss." + +Lord Yarmouth alone sat in moody silence, and, on being questioned as +to the cause, replied that whenever he dined at his Royal Highness's +table, he drank a claret which he much preferred--that which was +furnished by Carbonell. The Prince immediately ordered a bottle of this +wine; and to give them an opportunity of testing the difference, he +desired that some anchovy sandwiches should be served up. Carbonell's +wine was placed upon the table: it was a claret made expressly for the +London market, well-dashed with Hermitage, and infinitely more to the +taste of the Englishman than the delicately-flavoured wine they had +been drinking. The banquet terminated in the Prince declaring his own +wine superior to that of Palmer's, and suggesting that he should try +some experiments on his estate to obtain a better wine. Palmer come +from Carlton House much mortified. On Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt attempting +to console him, and saying that it was the anchovies that had spoiled +the taste of the connoisseurs, the general said loudly enough to be +heard by Lord Yarmouth, "No; it was the confounded red herrings." A +duel was very nearly the consequence. + +General Palmer, feeling it his duty to follow the advice of the Prince, +rooted out his old vines, planted new ones, tried all sorts of +experiments at an immense cost, but with little or no result. He and +his agent, in consequence, got themselves into all sorts of +difficulties, mortgaged the property, borrowed largely, and were at +last obliged to have recourse to usurers, to life assurances, and every +sort of expedient to raise money. The theatre at Bath was sold, the +Reform in Parliament robbed him of his seat, and at last he and his +agent became ruined men. A subscription would have been raised to +relieve him, but he preferred ending his days in poverty to living upon +the bounty of his friends. He sold his commission, and was plunged in +the deepest distress; while the accumulation of debt to the usurers +became so heavy, that he was compelled to pass through the Insolvent +Court. Thus ended the career of a man who had been courted in society, +idolized in the army, and figured as a legislator for many years. His +friends, of course, fell off, and he was to be seen a mendicant in the +streets of London--shunned where he once was adored. Gray, his agent, +became equally involved; but, marrying a widow with some money, he was +enabled to make a better fight. Eventually, however, he became a prey +to the money-lender, and his life ended under circumstances distressing +to those who had known him in early days. + + + + +"MONK" LEWIS + + +One of the most agreeable men of the day was "Monk" Lewis. As the +author of the Monk and the Tales of Wonder, he not only found his way +into the best circles, but had gained a high reputation in the literary +world. His poetic talent was undoubted, and he was intimately connected +with Walter Scott in his ballad researches. His Alonzo the Brave and +the Fair Imogene was recited at the theatres, and wherever he went he +found a welcome reception. His West Indian fortune and connections, +and his seat in Parliament, gave him access to all the aristocratic +circles; from which, however, he was banished upon the appearance of +the fourth and last dialogue of the Pursuits of Literature. Had a +thunderbolt fallen upon him, he could not have been more astonished +than he was by the onslaught of Mr. Matthias, which led to his +ostracism from fashionable society. + +It is not for me to appreciate the value of this satirical poem, which +created such an extraordinary sensation, not only in the fashionable, +but in the political world; I, however, remember that whilst at +Canning's, at the Bishop of London's, and at Gifford's, it was +pronounced the most classical and spirited production that had ever +issued from the press, it was held up at Lord Holland's, at the Marquis +of Lansdowne's, and at Brookes's, as one of the most spiteful and +ill-natured satires that had ever disgraced the literary world; and one +which no talent or classic lore could ever redeem. Certain it is, that +Matthias fell foul of poor "Monk" Lewis for his romance: obscenity and +blasphemy were the charges laid at his door; he was acknowledged to be +a man of genius and fancy, but this added only to his crime, to which +was superadded that of being a very young man. The charges brought +against him cooled his friends and heated his enemies; the young ladies +were forbidden to speak to him, matrons even feared him, and from being +one of the idols of the world, he became one of the objects of its +disdain. Even his father was led to believe that his son had abandoned +the paths of virtue, and was on the high road to ruin. + +"Monk" Lewis, unable to stand against the outcry thus raised against +him, determined to try the effects of absence, and took his departure +for the island in which his property was; but unfortunately for those +who dissented from the ferocious judgment that was passed upon him, and +for those who had discrimination enough to know that after all there +was nothing very objectionable in his romance, and felt assured that +posterity would do him justice, this amiable and kind-hearted man died +on his passage out; leaving a blank in one variety of literature which +has never been filled up. + +The denunciation was not followed by any other severe criticism; but +editors have, in compliance with the insinuations of Matthias, omitted +the passages which he pointed out as objectionable, so that the +original text is seldom met with. + +"Monk" Lewis had a black servant, affectionately attached to his +master; but so ridiculously did this servant repeat his master's +expressions, that he became the laughing-stock of all his master's +friends: Brummell used often to raise a hearty laugh at Carlton House +by repeating witticisms which he pretended to have heard from Lewis's +servant. Some of these were very stale; yet they were considered so +good as to be repeated at the clubs, greatly adding to the reputation +of the Beau as a teller of good things. "On one occasion," said +Brummell, "I called to inquire after a young lady who had sprained her +ancle; Lewis, on being asked how she was, had said in the black's +presence, 'The doctor has seen her, put her legs straight, and the poor +chicken is doing well.' The servant, therefore, told me, with a +mysterious and knowing look, 'Oh, sir, the doctor has been here; she +has laid eggs, and she and the chickens are doing well.'" + +Such extravagances in those days were received as the essence of wit, +and to such stories did the public give a willing ear, repeating them +with unwearying zest. Even Sheridan's wit partook of this character, +making him the delight of the Prince, who ruled over the fashionable +world, and whose approbation was sufficient to give currency to +anything, however ludicrous and absurd. + + + + +SIR THOMAS TURTON + + +There is a pleasure in recalling to memory even the school-boy pranks +of men who make a figure in the world. The career of Turton promised +to be a brilliant one; and had he not offended against the moral +feeling of the country, and lost his position, he would have mounted to +the highest step in the ladder of fortune. At Eton he showed himself a +dashing and a daring boy, and was looked upon by Dr. Goodall, the then +head master, as one of his best classical scholars; by his +schoolfellows he was even more highly regarded, being the acknowledged +"cock of the school." Amongst the qualities that endeared him to them +was a fearlessness which led him into dangers and difficulties, from +which his pluck only could extricate him. He was a determined poacher: +not one of the skulking class, but of a daring that led him to exert +his abilities in Windsor Park itself; where he contrived to bag game, +in spite of the watchfulness of the keepers and the surveillance of the +well-paid watchers of the night. On one occasion; however, by some +unlucky chance, tidings of his successes reached the ears of the royal +gamekeeper, who formed a plan by which to entrap him; and so nearly +were they pouncing upon Turton that he was obliged to take to his heels +and fly, carrying with him a hare which he had caught. The keepers +followed close upon his heels until they came to the Thames, into which +Turton plunged, and, still holding his prize by his teeth, swam to the +other side; to the astonishment and dismay of his pursuers, who had no +inclination for a cold bath: their mortification was great at seeing +Turton safely landed on the other side. He reached the college in +safety; and the hare served for the enjoyment of merry friends. + +Turton's history in after life I will not pursue; but must express my +regret that he threw away golden opportunities of showing his love for +classic lore, and his ability to meet the difficulties of life, in the +same bold way in which he swam the Thames and baffled the Windsor +gamekeepers. + + + + +GEORGE SMYTHE, THE LATE LORD STRANGFORD + + +This is another friend to whom I am pleased to pay the tribute of a +reminiscence, and who, if he was not as well known as most of those I +have spoken of, was yet highly prized by many of the most distinguished +persons, and formed one of a circle that had great influence in +England. Being the son of the well-known Lord Strangford, the +translator of Camoens, he had a first place in aristocratic society, +and had he not given himself up to indulgences and amusements, might +have reached the rank of statesman. The late Lord Strangford was +distinguished by those external qualifications which are everywhere +acceptable; his manners were polished and easy, his conversation +elegant and witty, and these, added to great personal attractions, gave +him a charm which was generally felt. Disraeli, Sir Edward Bulwer +Lytton, and the leading men of the day, were his associates. When Lord +Aberdeen became Minister for Foreign Affairs he selected George Smythe +as under secretary; in which capacity he acquitted himself with great +ability. He could not, however, act under Lord Palmerston, and rather +than do so gave up his position. He did not long survive, but died +very young; just as he was beginning to learn the value of his rare +abilities, and had ascertained how best they might have been of use to +his country. + + + + +THE HONOURABLE GEORGE TALBOT + + +I have a very vivid recollection of George Talbot, a brother of the +late Earl of Shrewsbury, and who was a fashionable man about town, of +whom there are many anecdotes in circulation. The only one that took +my fancy was related to me in Paris, where he was as usual in the midst +of the gayest of the gay, recklessly spending his money, and oftentimes +resorting for resources to the gambling-table, where at last he was +thoroughly pigeoned. + +Talbot had tried in vain all the usual means of recruiting his empty +purse. Being a Roman Catholic, like most of the members of one of the +oldest families in Great Britain, he was a regular attendant upon the +ceremonies of his Church, and acquainted with all the clergy in Paris; +so he took the resolution of going to his confessor, unburdening his +conscience, and at the same time seeking counsel from the holy father, +as to the best way of raising the wind. After entering minutely into +his condition, and asking the priest how he could find funds to pay his +debts and take him home, the confessor seemed touched by his tale of +woe, and after much apparent consideration recommended him to trust in +Providence. Talbot seemed struck with such sensible advice, and +promised to call again in a few days. This second visit was made in +due course; he again mourned over his condition, and requested the +priest's advice and assistance. His story was listened to as before, +with much commiseration, but he was again recommended to trust in +Providence. Talbot came away quite crest-fallen, and evidently with +little hope of any immediate relief. After the lapse of a few days, +however, he appeared again before his confessor, apparently much +elated, and invited the worthy abbe to dine with him at the Rocher du +Cancale. This invitation was gladly accepted, the holy father not +doubting but that he should have all the delicacies in the land, to +which, in common with the rest of the clergy, he had no objection; nor +was he disappointed. The dinner was recherche; the best the +establishment could furnish was placed before them, and most heartily +and lovingly did the worthy abbe devote himself to what was offered. +At the end of the repast the carte a payer was duly furnished; but what +was the astonishment of the reverend guest when Talbot declared that +his purse was completely au sec, and that it had been a long time +empty; but that upon this occasion, as upon all others, he trusted, as +the abbe had advised him, in Providence. The Abbe Pecheron, recovering +from his surprise, and being of a kind and generous disposition, +laughed heartily at Talbot's impudence, and feeling that he had +deserved this rebuke pulled out his purse, paid for the dinner, and did +what he should have done at first--wrote to the members of Talbot's +family, and obtained for him such assistance as enabled him to quit +Paris and return home, where he afterwards led a more sober life. + + + + +A DINNER AT SIR JAMES BLAND BURGES'S, IN LOWER BROOK STREET; AUTUMN, 1815 + + +I was once invited to dinner by Sir James Burges, father of my friend, +Captain Burges, of the Guards: it was towards the end of the season +1815. I there met, to my great delight, Lord Byron and Sir Walter +Scott; and amongst the rest of the company were Lord Caledon, and +Croker, the Secretary to the Admiralty. Sir James had been private +secretary to Pitt at the time of the French Revolution, and had a fund +of curious anecdotes about everything and everybody of note at the end +of the last century. I remember his telling us the now generally +received story of Pitt dictating a King's speech off-hand--then a more +difficult task than at the present day--without the slightest +hesitation; this speech being adopted by his colleagues nearly word for +word as it was written down. + +Walter Scott was quite delightful, appearing full of fire and +animation, and told some interesting anecdotes connected with his early +life in Scotland. I remember his proving himself, what would have been +called in the olden times he delighted to portray, "a stout +trencher-man." Nor were his attentions confined by any means to the +eatables; on the contrary, he showed himself worthy to have made a +third in the famous carousal in Ivanhoe, between the Black Knight and +the Holy Clerk of Copmanhurst. + +Byron, whom I had before seen at the shooting galleries and elsewhere, +was then a very handsome man, with remarkably fine eyes and hair; but +was, as usual, all show-off and affectation. I recollect his saying +that he disliked seeing women eat, or to have their company at dinner, +from a wish to believe, if possible, in their more ethereal nature; but +he was rallied into avowing that his chief dislike to their presence at +the festive board arose from the fact of their being helped first, and +consequently getting all the wings of the chickens, whilst men had to +be content with the legs or other parts. Byron, on this occasion, was +in great good humour, and full of boyish and even boisterous mirth. + +Croker was also agreeable, notwithstanding his bitter and sarcastic +remarks upon everything and everybody. The sneering, ill-natured +expression of his face, struck me as an impressive contrast to the +frank and benevolent countenance of Walter Scott. + +I never assisted at a more agreeable dinner. According to the custom of +the day, we sat late; the poets, statesmen, and soldiers, all drank an +immense quantity of wine, and I for one felt the effects of it next +day. Walter Scott gave one or two recitations, in a very animated +manner, from the ballads that he had been collecting, which delighted +his auditory; and both Lord Byron and Croker added to the hilarity of +the evening by quotations from, and criticisms on the more prominent +writers of the period. + + + + +LORD BYRON + + +I knew very little of Lord Byron personally, but lived much with two of +his intimate friends, Scrope Davis and Wedderburn Webster; from whom I +frequently heard many anecdotes of him. I regret that I remember so +few; and wish that I had written down those told me by poor Scrope +Davis, one of the most agreeable men I ever met. + +When Byron was at Cambridge, he was introduced to Scrope Davis by their +mutual friend, Matthews, who was afterwards drowned in the river Cam. +After Matthews's death, Davis became Byron's particular friend, and was +admitted to his rooms at all hours. Upon one occasion he found the +poet in bed with his hair en papillote, upon which Scrope cried, "Ha, +ha! Byron, I have at last caught you acting the part of the Sleeping +Beauty." + +Byron, in a rage, exclaimed, "No, Scrope; the part of a d----d fool, +you should have said." + +"Well, then, anything you please; but you have succeeded admirably in +deceiving your friends, for it was my conviction that your hair curled +naturally." + +"Yes, naturally, every night," returned the poet; "but do not, my dear +Scrope, let the cat out of the bag, for I am as vain of my curls as a +girl of sixteen." + +When in London, Byron used to go to Manton's shooting-gallery, in Davis +street, to try his hand, as he said, at a wafer. Wedderburn Webster +was present when the poet, intensely delighted with his own skill, +boasted to Joe Manton that he considered himself the best shot in +London. "No, my lord," replied Manton, "not the best; but your +shooting, to-day, was respectable;" upon which Byron waxed wroth, and +left the shop in a violent passion. + +Lords Byron, Yarmouth, Pollington, Mountjoy, Walliscourt, Blandford, +Captain Burges, Jack Bouverie, and myself, were in 1814, and for +several years afterwards, amongst the chief and most constant +frequenters of this well-known shooting-gallery, and frequently shot at +the wafer for considerable sums of money. Manton was allowed to enter +the betting list, and he generally backed me. On one occasion, I hit +the wafer nineteen times out of twenty. + +Byron lived a great deal at Brighton, his house being opposite the +Pavilion. He was fond of boating, and was generally accompanied by a +lad, who was said to be a girl in boy's clothes. This report was +confirmed to me by Webster, who was then living at Brighton. The vivid +description of the page in Lara, no doubt, gave some plausibility to +this often-told tale. I myself witnessed the dexterous manner in which +Byron used to get into his boat; for, while standing on the beach, I +once saw him vault into it with the agility of a harlequin, in spite of +his lame foot. + +On one occasion, whilst his lordship was dining with a few of his +friends in Charles Street, Pall Mall, a letter was delivered to Scrope +Davis, which required an immediate answer. Scrope, after reading its +contents, handed it to Lord Byron. It was thus worded:-- + + +"MY DEAR SCROPE,--Lend me 500L. for a few days; the funds are shut for +the dividends, or I would not have made this request. + +"G. BRUMMELL." + + +The reply was:-- + + +"My DEAR BRUMMELL,--All my money is locked up in the funds. + +"SCROPE DAVIS." + + +This was just before Brummell's escape to the Continent. + +I have frequently asked Scrope Davis his private opinion of Lord Byron, +and invariably received the same answer--that he considered Lord Byron +very agreeable and clever, but vain, overbearing, conceited, +suspicious, and jealous. Byron hated Palmerston, but liked Peel, and +thought that the whole world ought to be constantly employed in +admiring his poetry and himself: he never could write a poem or a drama +without making himself its hero, and he was always the subject of his +own conversation. + +During one of Henry Hobhouse's visits to Byron, at his villa near +Genoa, and whilst they were walking in the garden, his lordship +suddenly turned upon his guest, and, apropos of nothing, exclaimed, +"Now, I know, Hobhouse, you are looking at my foot." Upon which +Hobhouse kindly replied, "My dear Byron, nobody thinks of or looks at +anything but your head." + + + + +SHELLEY + + +Shelley, the poet, cut off at so early an age; just when his great +poetical talents had been matured by study and reflection, and when he +probably would have produced some great work, was my friend and +associate at Eton. He was a boy of studious and meditative habits, +averse to all games and sports, and a great reader of novels and +romances. He was a thin, slight lad, with remarkably lustrous eyes, +fine hair, and a very peculiar shrill voice and laugh. His most +intimate friend at Eton was a boy named Price, who was considered one +of the best classical scholars amongst us. At his tutor, Bethell's, +where he lodged, he attempted many mechanical and scientific +experiments. By the aid of a common tinker, he contrived to make +something like a steam-engine, which, unfortunately, one day suddenly +exploded; to the great consternation of the neighbourhood and to the +imminent danger of a severe flogging from Dr. Reate. + +Soon after leaving school, and about the year 1810, he came, in a state +of great distress and difficulty, to Swansea, when we had an +opportunity of rendering him a service; but we never could ascertain +what had brought him to Wales, though we had reason to suppose it was +some mysterious affaire du coeur. + +The last time I saw Shelley was at Genoa, in 1822, sitting on the +sea-shore, and, when I came upon him, making a true poet's meal of +bread and fruit; He at once recognized me, jumped up, and appearing +greatly delighted, exclaimed, "Here you see me at my old Eton habits; +but instead of the green fields for a couch, I have here the shores of +the Mediterranean. It is very grand, and very romantic. I only wish I +had some of the excellent brown bread and butter we used to get at +Spiers's: but I was never very fastidious in my diet." Then he +continued, in a wild and eccentric manner: "Gronow, do you remember the +beautiful Martha, the Hebe of Spiers's? She was the loveliest girl I +ever saw, and I loved her to distraction." + +Shelley was looking careworn and ill; and, as usual, was very +carelessly dressed. He had on a large and wide straw hat, his long +brown hair, already streaked with grey, flowing in large masses from +under it, and presented a wild and strange appearance. + +During the time I sat by his side he asked many questions about myself +and many of our schoolfellows; but on my questioning him in turn about +himself, his way of life, and his future plans, he avoided entering +into any explanation: indeed, he gave such short and evasive answers, +that, thinking my inquisitiveness displeased him, I rose to take my +leave. I observed that I had not been lucky enough to see Lord Byron +in any of my rambles, to which he replied, "Byron is living at his +villa, surrounded by his court of sycophants; but I shall shortly see +him at Leghorn." We then shook hands. I never saw him again; for he +was drowned shortly afterwards, with his friend, Captain Williams, and +his body was washed ashore near Via Reggio. Every one is familiar with +the romantic scene which took place on the sea-shore when the remains +of my poor friend and Captain Williams were burnt, in the presence of +Byron and Trelawney, in the Roman fashion. His ashes were gathered into +an urn, and buried in the Protestant cemetery at Rome. He was but +twenty-nine years of age at his death. + + + + +ROBERT SOUTHEY, THE POET + + +In the year 1803, my father received a letter of introduction from Mr. +Rees, of the well-known firm of Longman, Paternoster Row, presenting +Robert Southey, the poet, to him. He came into Wales with the hope of +finding a cottage to reside in. Accordingly, a cavalcade was formed, +consisting of Mr. W. Gwynne, the two brothers Southey, my father, and +myself, and we rode up the Valley of Neath to look at a cottage about +eight miles from the town. The poet, delighted with the scenery and +situation, decided upon taking it; but the owner, unfortunately for the +honour of Welshmen, actually declined to let it to Robert Southey, +fearing that a poet could not find security for the small annual rent +of twenty-five pounds. This circumstance led the man of letters, who +eventually became one of the most distinguished men of his day, to seek +a home elsewhere, and the Lakes were at length chosen as his residence. +Probably the picturesque beauties of Cumberland compensated the +Laureate for the indignity put upon him by the Welshman. + +An act of Vandalism perpetrated in the same Vale of Neath, and +reflecting no honour on my countrymen, deserves here to be noted with +reprobation. A natural cascade, called Dyllais, which was so beautiful +as to excite the admiration of travellers, was destroyed by an agent to +Lord Jersey, the proprietor of the estate, in order to build a few +cottages and the lock of a canal. The rock down which this beautiful +cascade had flowed from the time of the Flood, and which had created a +scene of beauty universally admired, was blown up with gunpowder by +this man, who could probably appreciate no more beautiful sight than +that which presents itself from a window in Gray's or Lincoln's Inn, of +which he was a member. + + + + +CAPTAIN HESSE, FORMERLY OF THE 18TH HUSSARS + + +One of my most intimate friends was the late Captain Hesse, generally +believed to be a son of the Duke of York, by a German lady of rank. +Though it is not my intention to disclose certain family secrets of +which I am in possession, I may, nevertheless, record some +circumstances connected with the life of my friend, which were familiar +to a large circle with whom I mixed. Hesse, in early youth, lived with +the Duke and Duchess of York; he was treated in such a manner by them +as to indicate an interest in him by their Royal Highnesses which could +scarcely be attributed to ordinary regard, and was gazetted a cornet in +the 18th Hussars at seventeen years of age. Shortly afterwards, he +went to Spain, and was present in all the battles in which his regiment +was engaged; receiving a severe wound in the wrist at the battle of +Vittoria. When this became known in England, a royal lady wrote to +Lord Wellington, requesting that he might be carefully attended to; +and, at the same time, a watch, with her portrait, was forwarded, which +was delivered to the wounded Hussar by Lord Wellington himself. When +he had sufficiently recovered, Hesse returned to England, and passed +much of his time at Oatlands, the residence of the Duchess of York; he +was also honoured with the confidence of the Princess Charlotte and her +mother, Queen Caroline. + +Many delicate and important transactions were conducted through the +medium of Captain Hesse; in fact, it was perfectly well known that he +played a striking part in many scenes of domestic life which I do not +wish to reveal. I may, however, observe that the Prince Regent sent +the late Admiral Lord Keith to Hesse's lodgings, who demanded, in his +Royal Highness's name, the restitution of the watch and letters which +had been sent him when in Spain. After a considerable amount of +hesitation, the Admiral obtained what he wanted the following day; +whereupon Lord Keith assured him that the Prince Regent would never +forget so great a mark of confidence, and that the heir to the throne +would ever afterwards be his friend. I regret to say, from personal +knowledge, that, upon this occasion the Prince behaved most +ungratefully and unfeelingly; for, after having obtained all he wanted, +he positively refused to receive Hesse at Carlton House. + +Hesse's life was full of singular incidents. He was a great friend of +the Queen of Naples, grandmother of the ex-Sovereign of the Two +Sicilies; in fact, so notorious was that liaison, that Hesse was +eventually expelled from Naples under an escort of gendarmes. He was +engaged in several affairs of honour, in which he always displayed the +utmost courage; and his romantic career terminated by his being killed +in a duel by Count L--, natural son of the first Napoleon. He died as +he had lived, beloved by his friends, and leaving behind him little but +his name and the kind thoughts of those who survived him. + + + + +VISITING IN THE COUNTRY + + +When I returned to London from Paris, in 1815, upon promotion, I was +accompanied by Colonel Brooke, who was good enough to invite me to pass +some time at his brother's, Sir R. Brookes, in Cheshire, upon the +occasion of the christening of his eldest son. The fete was truly +magnificent, and worthy of our excellent host; and all the great people +of the neighbouring counties were present. + +Soon afterwards I went to the Hale, a country house near Liverpool, +belonging to Mr. Blackburn, one of the oldest members of the House of +Commons, where many persons, who had been at Sir Richard Brookes's, met +again. Mr. Blackburn was extremely absent and otherwise odd: upon one +occasion I gave him a letter to frank, which he deliberately opened and +read in my presence; and on my asking him if it amused him, he replied +that he did not understand what it meant. Upon another occasion the +Duke of Gloucester, accompanied by Mr. Blackburn, went out to shoot +pheasants in the preserves near the Hale; when all of a sudden, Mr. B. +observing that the Duke's gun was cocked, asked his Royal Highness +whether he always carried his gun cocked. "Yes, Blackburn, always," +was the reply. + +"Well then, good morning, your Royal Highness; I will no longer +accompany you." + +At dinner Mr. Blackburn was very eccentric: he would never surrender +his place at table even to royalty; so the Duke was obliged to sit near +him. Whenever the royal servant filled the Duke's glass with wine and +water, Mr. B. invariably drank it off; until at length, the Duke asked +his servant for more wine and water, and anticipating a repetition of +the farce that had so often been played, drank it off, and said, "Well, +Blackburn, I have done you at last." After dinner the Duke and the men +went to join the ladies in the drawing-room, where the servant in royal +livery was waiting, holding a tray upon which was a cup of tea for the +Duke. Mr. Blackburn, observing the servant in waiting, and that nobody +took the cup of tea, determined on drinking it; but the domestic +retired a little, to endeavour to prevent it. Mr. Blackburn, however, +followed and persisted; Upon which the servant said, "Sir, it is for +his Royal Highness." + +"D---- his Royal Highness, I will have this tea." + +The Duke exclaimed, "That's right, Blackburn," and ordered the servant +to hand it to him. + + + + +COLONEL KELLY AND HIS BLACKING + + +Among the odd characters I have met with, I do not recollect anyone +more eccentric than the late Lieutenant-colonel Kelly, of the First +Foot Guards, who was the vainest man I ever encountered. He was a +thin, emaciated-looking dandy, but had all the bearing of the +gentleman. He was haughty in the extreme, and very fond of dress; his +boots were so well varnished that the polish now in use could not +surpass Kelly's blacking in brilliancy; his pantaloons were made of the +finest leather, and his coats were inimitable: in short, his dress was +considered perfect. + +His sister held the place of housekeeper to the Custom-house, and when +it was burnt down, Kelly was burnt with it, in endeavoring to save his +favorite boots. When the news of his horrible death became known, all +the dandies were anxious to secure the services of his valet, who +possessed the mystery of the inimitable blacking. Brummell lost no +time in discovering his place of residence, and asked what wages he +required; the servant answered, his late master gave him 150L. a-year, +but it was not enough for his talents, and he should require 200L.; +upon which Brummell said, "well, if you will make it guineas, I shall +be happy to attend upon you." The late Lord Plymouth eventually secured +this phoenix of valets at 200L. a-year, and bore away the sovereignty +of boots. + + + + +LORD ALLEN AND COUNT D'ORSAY + + +Lord Allen being rather the worse for drinking too much wine at dinner, +teased Count D'Orsay, and said some very disagreeable things, which +irritated him; when suddenly John Bush entered the club and shook hands +with the Count, who exclaimed, "Voila, la difference entre une bonne +bouche et une mauvaise haleine." + +The following bon mot was also attributed to the Count: General Ornano, +observing a certain nobleman--who, by some misfortune in his youth, +lost the use of his legs--in a Bath chair, which he wheeled about, and +inquiring the name of the English peer, D'Orsay answered, "Pere la +Chaise." + +The Count had many disciples among our men of fashion, but none of them +succeeded in copying the original. His death produced, both in London +and in Paris, a deep and universal regret. The Count's life has been +so well delineated in the public prints, that nothing I could say would +add to the praise that has been bestowed upon him. Perfectly natural +in manners and language, highly accomplished, and never betraying the +slightest affectation or pretension, he had formed friendships with +some of the noblest and most accomplished men in England. He was also +a great favourite in Paris, where he had begun to exercise his talent +as an artist, when death prematurely removed him from society. + + + + +Mr. PHELPS + + +Mr. Phelps, a chorus singer, and an excellent musician, with good looks +and address, contrived to ingratiate himself with the Marchioness of +Antrim, and was fortunate enough to marry her ladyship, by whose means +he was created a baronet, and allied to some of our most aristocratic +families. + + + + +THE LATE LORD BLOOMFIELD + + +The late Lord Bloomfield likewise owed his elevation to the Peerage to +his musical talents. When the Prince of Wales was living at the +Pavilion at Brighton, he wanted some one who could accompany him on the +violoncello, and having ascertained that Captain Bloomfield, of the +Royal Artillery, who was then at Brighton with his troop, was an +accomplished violoncello player, the captain was accordingly summoned +to appear before the Prince, at the Pavilion. From that night +commenced an intimacy which for many years existed between the Prince +and Captain Bloomfield; who for a considerable length of time was well +known in fashionable circles under the title of Sir Benjamin +Bloomfield. A court intrigue, headed by a fascinating marchioness, +caused him to be sent into splendid exile: this lady attributing to Sir +Benjamin Bloomfield her being compelled to send back some jewels which +had been presented to her by the Prince Regent; but which, it was +discovered, belonged to the Crown, and could not be alienated. Sir +Benjamin was created a Peer, and sent to Stockholm as ambassador, where +his affable manners and his unostentatious hospitality rendered him +exceedingly popular; and he became as great a favorite with Bernadotte +as he had been with the Prince Regent. The name of Bloomfield is at +this day respected in Sweden. + + + + +THE RIGHT HON. GEORGE CANNING + + +When Mr. Canning retired from Portugal, he was received at Paris with a +distinction and a deference perhaps never before bestowed on a foreign +diplomatist; he dined with Charles X. almost tete-a-tete, and was +scrambled for by the leading aristocracy of France. It happened that +he also dined, on one occasion, with the Bailly Ferret, who was the +oldest foreign ambassador in Paris; and it was generally understood +that Canning, who had the reputation of being a gourmand, and was not +in robust health at the time, never thoroughly recovered from these +Parisian hospitalities. A short time after, this great orator, and the +most brilliant statesman of the day, breathed his last at Chiswick, in +the same room in which Charles James Fox died. + + + + +MRS. BOEHM, OF ST. JAMES'S SQUARE + + +This lady used to give fashionable balls and masquerades, to which I +look back with much pleasure. The Prince Regent frequently honoured her +fetes with his presence. Mrs. Boehm, on one occasion, sent invitations +to one of her particular friends, begging him to fill them up, and +tickets were given by him to Dick Butler (afterwards Lord Glengal) and +to Mr. Raikes. Whilst they were deliberating in what character they +should go, Dick Butler--for by that name he was only then +known--proposed that Raikes should take the part of Apollo; which the +latter agreed to, provided Dick would be his lyre. The noble lord's +reputation for stretching the long bow rendered this repartee so +applicable, that it was universally repeated at the clubs. + + + + +DR. GOODALL, OF ETON + + +This gentleman was proverbially fond of punning. About the same time +that he was made Provost of Eton, he received, also, a Stall at +Windsor. A young lady of his acquaintance, while congratulating him on +his elevation, and requesting him to give the young ladies of Eton and +Windsor a ball during the vacation, happened to touch his wig with her +fan, and caused the powder to fly about. Upon which the doctor +exclaimed, "My dear, you see you can get the powder out of the canon, +but not the ball." + + + + +LORD MELBOURNE, THE DUKE OF LEINSTER, AND LORD NORMANBY + + +When Lord Melbourne offered the garter to the Duke of Leinster, his +grace is reported to have answered that he did not want it; adding, "It +will, no doubt, be eagerly accepted by one of your lordship's +supporters in the Upper House." On another occasion, when Lord +Normanby was soliciting Lord Melbourne to be made a marquis, the noble +Premier observed, in his jocular way, "Why, Normanby, you are not such +a d----d fool as to want that!" The favour, however, was eventually +granted. + + + + +THE DUKE OF GLOUCESTER + + +His Royal Highness, who was in the habit of saying very ludicrous +things, asked one of his friends in the House of Lords, on the occasion +when William IV. assented to Lord Grey's Proposition to pass the Reform +Bill coute qui coute, "Who is Silly Billy now?" This was in allusion +to the general opinion that was prevalent of the Royal Duke's weakness, +and which had obtained for him the sobriquet of "Silly Billy." + +The Duke frequently visited Cheltenham during the season. Upon one +occasion, he called upon Colonel Higgins, brother to the equerry of his +Royal Highness the Prince Regent, and, on inquiring of the servant if +his master was at home, received for answer, "My master is dying." + +"Dying!" repeated the Duke; "have you sent for a doctor?" + +"No, sir." + +His Royal Highness immediately ran back into the street, and, having +the good fortune to find a medical man, he requested him to come at +once to Colonel Higgins, as he was on the point of death. The Duke and +the doctor soon reached the colonel's house, and, after again asking +the servant how his master was, that functionary replied, "I told you, +sir, that he is dying." They mounted the staircase, and were rather +amused to find the reported invalid busily occupied in dyeing his hair. + + + + +LADY CORK + + +In 1819, this venerable lady lived in Old Burlington Street, where she +gave many parties, to persons of all nations, and contrived to bring +together foreigners from the wilds of America, the Cape of Good Hope, +and even savages from the isles of the Pacific; in fact, she was the +notorious lion-hunter of her age. It was supposed that she had a +peculiar ignorance of the laws of meum and tuum, and that her monomania +was such that she would try to get possession of whatever she could +place her hands upon; so that it was dangerous to leave in the +ante-room anything of value. On application being made, however, the +articles were usually returned the following day, the fear of the law +acting strongly upon her ladyship's bewildered brain. + + + + +THE DUCHESS OF GORDON + + +This leader of fashion, who was wont to be the admiration of all +circles, was looked upon as the most ambitious of women, and her vanity +was fully gratified by the marriage of her daughters to the first +people in the realm--the Dukes of Richmond, Manchester, and Bedford, +and the Marquis of Cornwallis. + + + + +THE LATE MRS. BRADSHAW (MARIA TREE) + + +The two Miss Trees, Maria and Ellen (the latter now Mrs. Kean), were +the great favourites of the Bath Stage for many seasons before they +became leading stars in London. Miss Ellen Tree made her first +appearance in a grand entertainment, called the Cataract of the Ganges, +in a magnificent car drawn by six horses. Her beauty made a deep +impression on the audience, which was naturally increased by her +subsequent exhibition of great talents. + +Miss Maria Tree was much admired as a vocalist, and her Viola, in +Twelfth Night, was one of the most popular performances of the day. +Mr. Bradshaw became desperately enamoured of her during her engagement +in London, and having learnt that she was about to go by the mail coach +to Birmingham, where she was to perform her principal characters, +thought it a favourable opportunity of enjoying her society; so he sent +his servant to secure him a place by the mail, under the name of +Tomkins. At the appointed time for departure, Mr. Bradshaw was at the +office, and jumping into the coach was soon whirled away; but great was +his disappointment at finding that the fair object of his admiration +was not a fellow-passenger: he was not consoled by discovering that +there were two mails, the one the Birmingham, mail, the other the +Birmingham and Manchester, and that whilst he was journeying by the +latter, Miss Tree was travelling in the other. + +On arriving at Birmingham, early in the morning, he left the coach and +stepped into the hotel, determined to remain there, and go to the +theatre on the following evening. He went to bed, and slept late the +following day; and on waking he remembered that his trunk with all his +money had gone on to Manchester, and that he was without the means of +paying his way. Seeing the Bank of Birmingham opposite the hotel, he +went over and explained his position to one of the partners, giving his +own banker's address in London, and showing letters addressed to him as +Mr. Bradshaw. Upon this he was told that with such credentials he might +have a loan; and the banker said he would write the necessary letter +and cheque, and send the money over to him at the hotel. Mr. Bradshaw, +pleased with this kind attention, sat himself down comfortably to +breakfast in the coffee-room. According to promise, the cashier made +his appearance at the hotel, and asked the waiter for Mr. Bradshaw. + +"No such gentleman here," was the reply. + +"Oh, yes, he came by the London mail." + +"No, sir; no one came but Mr. Tomkins, who was booked as inside +passenger to Manchester." + +The cashier was dissatisfied; but the waiter added, "Sir, you can look +through the window of the coffee-room door, and see the gentleman +yourself." + +On doing so, he beheld the Mr. Tomkins, alias Mr. Bradshaw, and +immediately returned to the Bank, telling what he himself had heard and +seen. The banker went over to the hotel, had a consultation with the +landlord, and it was determined that a watch should be placed upon the +suspicious person who had two names and no luggage, and who was booked +to Manchester but had stopped at Birmingham. + +The landlord summoned boots--a little lame fellow, of most ludicrous +appearance,--and pointing to the gentleman in the coffee-room, told him +his duty for the day was to follow him wherever he went, and never to +lose sight of him; but above all to take care that he did not get away. +Boots nodded assent, and immediately mounted guard. Mr. Bradshaw +having taken his breakfast and read the papers, looked at his watch, +and sallied forth to see something of the goodly town of Birmingham. He +was much surprised at observing a little odd-looking man surveying him +most attentively, and watching his every movement; stopping whenever he +stopped, and evidently taking a deep interest in all he did. At last, +observing that he was the object of this incessant espionage, and +finding that he had a shilling left in his pocket, he hailed one of the +coaches that ran short distances in those days when omnibuses were not. +This, however, did not suit little boots, who went up to him and +insisted that he must not leave the town. + +Mr. Bradshaw's indignation was naturally excessive, and he immediately +returned to the hotel, where he found a constable ready to take him +before the mayor as an impostor and swindler. He was compelled to +appear before his worship, and had the mortification of being told that +unless he could give some explanation, he must be content with a +night's lodging in a house of detention. Mr. Bradshaw had no +alternative but to send to the fair charmer of his heart to identify +him; which she most readily did, as soon as rehearsal was over. +Explanations were then entered into; but he was forced to give the +reason of his being in Birmingham, which of course made a due +impression on the lady's heart, and led to that happy result of their +interviews--a marriage which resulted in the enjoyment of mutual +happiness for many years. + + + + +LADIES' JEWELLERY AND LOVERS + + +Some of the most magnificent fortunes of England have, in the first +instance, been undermined by an extravagant expenditure on jewellery, +which has been given to ladies, married and unmarried, who have +fascinated their wealthy admirers and made them their slaves. Hamlet, +and Rundell and Bridge, were in my day patronized by the great, and +obtained large sums of money from their enamoured clients, to whom they +often became bankers. + +On the day after the coronation of George IV., Hamlet made his +appearance at the house of Mr. Coutts, in Piccadilly, the corner of +Stratton Street. It was during dinner; but, owing no doubt to a +previous arrangement, he was at once admitted, when he placed before +the rich banker a magnificent diamond cross, which had been worn the +previous day by the Duke of York. It at once attracted the admiration +of Mrs. Coutts, who loudly exclaimed, "How happy I should be with such +a splendid specimen of jewellery." "What is it worth?" immediately +exclaimed Mr. Coutts. "I could not allow it to pass out of my +possession for less than 15,000L.," said the wary tradesman. "Bring me +a pen and ink," was the only answer made by the doting husband; and he +at once drew a cheque for that amount upon the bank in the Strand; and +with much delight the worthy old gentleman placed the jewel upon the +fair bosom of the lady: + + "Upon her breast a sparkling cross she wore, + Which Jews might kiss, and infidels adore." + +The Earl of C--, whose reputation in the sporting world was of the +highest order, and who had obtained some notoriety by his amours, fell +into the hands of Hamlet, who was known to the aristocracy by his mock +title of "Prince of Denmark." Hamlet placed before him, on one +occasion, jewels to the amount of thirty thousand pounds, and +volunteered, as his client was not of age, to give him credit for +several months. The offer was accepted, and the brilliant present +became the possession of a young lady, one of the Terpsichorean tribe +(Mademoiselle Le G.), whose charms had captivated the youthful +nobleman, and who had so irrevocably fascinated him by the expression +of her love, awakened by the prospect of a rich remuneration, that she +accepted him as the sole possessor of a heart which had been before at +the disposal of any rich admirer whose purse was worthy her +consideration. + +This lady, who is now somewhat advanced in years, but has still the +remains of beauty, is living in France upon her estate; the produce of +the many charms which she once possessed, and which she turned to such +advantage, as to make her society even up to this day courted by those +who look upon wealth as the great source of distinction, and who are +willing to disbelieve any stories that they may accidentally hear of +her previous history. + + + + +THE LATE LORD HENRY SEYMOUR + + +I knew Lord Henry perhaps better than any other Englishman, having +lived with him on terms of great intimacy. He was famous for his +racing stud and good taste in his carriages and riding-horses. It was +said, by persons who were little acquainted with him, that he was fond +of masquerades, fighting, and was also the terror of pugilists, from +his great strength and science in boxing; on the contrary, he was a +gentle, retiring, and humane man, and never was known to have been +present at a masquerade, or any place of the sort. But it +unfortunately happened that a man named "Franconi," of the Circus--a +low-born and vulgar fellow--resembled him in looks and stature, and +having been mistaken for my noble friend gave himself out as Lord +Seymour in those dens of infamy, where the noble lord was unknown. + +Lord Henry was a man of fine taste, and fond of the arts, and, at his +death, his paintings, library, and plate fetched a considerable sum at +public auction. During his lifetime he patronized young artists: often +advancing them money, and assisting them in every possible way. + +Lord Henry Seymour was the founder of the French Jockey Club, and, in +conjunction with the late Duke de Gramont (better known in England as +the Count de Guiche), made racing in France what it now is: that is, +they placed the turf upon a respectable footing. Lord Henry +established a school of arms and gymnasium in his hotel on the +Boulevard des Italiens, which became the most celebrated in Europe. He +himself was an adept in the art of fencing, his skill was considered by +the professors to be incomparable. + +His kindness of heart and unostentatious generosity were his noblest +qualities. One morning, whilst we were breakfasting in his library, a +friend entered, and, with a sad countenance, informed Lord Henry that +he had that morning been visiting an old friend of his, a man of good +birth, who, with his wife and children, were absolutely starving, and +that they were reduced to sleep upon straw. Lord Henry, touched by +this painful information, asked where those poor people were to be +found, and being told, he said not a word more, but ordered his +carriage and went out. The next morning the same gentleman made his +appearance, and said, "I call to tell you, Seymour, that I am just come +from my poor friend, who, I am happy to say, has received relief, in +the shape of furniture, bedding, linen, and food, from some kind +person, who also left a considerable sum of money to purchase wearing +apparel for the family." + +Seymour never moved a muscle of his face, and we were wondering from +whence the relief came, when a fine-looking fellow entered, bowing in +the most respectful manner, and addressed his lordship in the following +terms:--"My lord, I am obliged to confess that I have taken some +trouble to discover the name of our benefactor, and, from all I have +been able to learn, it cannot be any other than your lordship; I +therefore deem it my duty, on behalf of my wife, children, and self, to +return you my heartfelt thanks for this unexampled act of charity +towards a perfect stranger." The poor fellow shed tears in thus +addressing his lordship, who kindly gave him his hand, and promised to +be his friend for the future; which promise he fulfilled, by procuring +him a place under the Government, that enabled him to live happily and +bring up his family with honour and comfort. + + + + +FRANCE AND THE FRENCH + + +I will not permit this little volume to make its appearance in English +society, without a few words about a people with whom I have mingled +for nearly forty years. When I first came to France, few of my +countrypeople travelled, save those belonging to the rich and +aristocratic classes; it was not, therefore, surprising that those +whose interest it might have been, on both sides of the Channel, to +create a bad feeling between England and France, found little +difficulty in doing so. An Englishman was taught to hate the French as +well as to observe the Ten Commandments; and a Frenchman, on the other +hand, was educated with the idea that his only enemy on the face of the +earth was an Englishman. + +I regard this stimulated hostile feeling between two nations which must +ever influence the welfare of the human race more than any others, as +one of the greatest calamities that could curse humanity. We have only +to read history from the days of Agincourt up to our later struggles +with Napoleon I., to come to the conclusion that the two bravest and +the most intelligent nations on the face of the earth have, from +DYNASTIC ambition, and a want of the people knowing each other, been +ever engaged in inflicting mutual disasters, which have impeded for +centuries the progress, civilization, and prosperity of both; whilst +the want of a proper understanding between the two countries has +materially aided in retarding other nations in obtaining that political +emancipation necessary to the happiness of mankind. + +I have lived through a period characterized by sanguinary wars and huge +national debts, and have remained in this world long enough to +calculate their results. I am afraid we must often be content with +that empty glory which lives only in the pages of history. A battle +fought fifty years ago appears very often of no more utility than the +splendid tomb of a Necropolis. Events and objects for which men by +thousands were brought together in deadly combat assume, a few years +afterwards, mighty small proportions; and those who have taken part in +deadly struggles, at a later period marvel at the enthusiasm which then +animated them. I am no believer in that era of happiness which some +divines imagine to be so near at hand; nor do I imagine that the next +two or three hundred years will witness the sword turned into the +reaping-hook of peaceful industry; but what I do believe in, and what I +hope for, is that nations will know each other better than they did of +old. It will be more difficult for sovereigns and governments to bring +about wars between neighboring nations now, than it was before the +existence of that intercommunication which in our day has been created +by the press, the railway, and the electric telegraph. + +I have lived long enough to find hundreds of my countrymen +participating in a real knowledge of the French, and believing with me +that they are a brave, intelligent, and generous nation. Nearly half a +century of experience amongst them has taught me that there is much to +learn and much that is worthy of imitation in France. The social habits +of the French, and their easy mode of communication, always gain the +admiration, and often invite the attachment of foreigners. They are +less prejudiced than we islanders, and are much more citizens of the +world than ourselves. I have received an immense amount of courtesy in +France; and if there be less of solid friendship--which, however, in +England is based too often on a similarity of birth, position, and +wealth--in France, you have, at least, a greater chance than in England +of making a friend of a man who neither looks to your ancestors nor +your amount of riches before he proffers you the most sincere intimacy, +and, if necessary, disinterested aid, purely on the ground of your own +merit and character. + +Many of the better qualities of the French are not discoverable by the +superficial traveller, any more than the sterling qualities of the +Englishman are appreciated by the foreigner who makes a brief sojourn +in Great Britain. Slowly, but, I believe, surely, the agreeable +knowledge that I possess of the French is becoming more universal; and +I cannot but imagine that such a correct appreciation will be fraught +with the most valuable political as well as social results. + +Intelligent Englishmen have lived long enough to appreciate the genius +of Napoleon I., whose mode of governing France has been applied by +Napoleon III. with a success which prejudice even has been compelled to +acknowledge. But I remember a period when probably not a dozen +Englishmen could have been found to speak of the first Emperor with the +most ordinary common sense. I will, however, record one honourable +exception to the rule. The late Lord Dudley and Ward, an eccentric, but +able man, was at Vienna, in the midst of a large party, who were all +more or less abusing or depreciating the fallen hero, whose very name +had so long created fear and hatred amongst them. It was naturally +supposed that the Englishman who was silently listening to this +conversation must of course, as the natural enemy of France, approve of +all that had been said. Prince Metternich turned at last to his guest, +and said, "Et vous, my Lord, que pensez vous de Napoleon?" "Je pense," +replied Lord Dudley, "qu'il a rendu la gloire passee douteuse, et la +renommee future impossible." + +As an old soldier and an admirer of the Duke of Wellington, I cannot +altogether admit the entire justice of the observation; yet, spoken by +an Englishman to the enemies of the exiled Emperor, it was a gallant +homage paid to fallen greatness. + +The great man who now wields the destinies of France possesses many of +the remarkable qualities of the founder of his dynasty: his energetic +will, his extensive and varied knowledge, his aptitude for government, +his undaunted bravery, and that peculiar tact which leads him to say +the right thing at the right time. But to these rare gifts he joins +the most princely generosity, and a kind and gentle heart: he has never +been known to forsake a friend, or leave unrewarded any proofs of +devotion shown to him in his days of exile. He is adored by the vast +majority of the French nation, and even his political opponents, if +accidentally brought under the influence of his particularly winning +and gracious manner, are, in spite of themselves, charmed and softened. + +There can be no doubt that Napoleon III. enjoys a well-merited +popularity, and that there is throughout all classes a deep and earnest +confidence that the honour and glory of France are safe in his hands. + +It is just this mighty power, founded on the love and trust of his +people, which is the surest pledge that peace will be maintained +between our country and France. Napoleon III. does not require to +court popularity by pandering to the anti-English prejudices still +retained by a small minority of his subjects; and, unlike the +representatives of less popular dynasties, he can afford to show that +he is not only the beloved and mighty ruler of the French nation, but +also the firm ally and faithful friend of England. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Reminiscences of Captain Gronow, by +Rees Howell Gronow + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF CAPTAIN GRONOW *** + +***** This file should be named 3798.txt or 3798.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/9/3798/ + +Produced by Tobias D. Robison and Pam Wisniewski. 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Of course I apologize for any +genuine errors in spelling and punctuation that have crept into this file. + +Captain Gronow is an entertaining raconteur who brings his own experiences +in the Regency period and the wars with France delightfully to life. +Gronow published several sets of memoirs. This file covers the first +half of what he published. Search the web for "Captain Gronow" to learn +more about this interesting gentleman. + +The text is arranged as a series of topics, each with a title in capital +letters. Sometimes there is continuity in this arrangement, sometimes +there is not. There is no other structure to the text. + +I have used the character for "pounds" (money) in this text: '£'. +If the character n single quotes does not look like a pound sign to you, +well, at least you know what is intended. The book text uses a lower case 'l' +for this purpose, but in computer fonts the 'l', looking just like a '1' when +following a string of digits, is confusing. + +Many thanks to Pam Wisniewski for profreading this text. + + +- Tobias D. Robison, September, 2001 +tdr21@columbia.edu + + + + + + + + +Reminiscences of Captain Gronow + + + + +Formerly of the Grenadier Guards, and +M.P. for Stafford: + +being + +Anecdotes of the camp, the court, and the clubs, +at the close of the last war with France. + +Related by himself. + + + +"O friends regretted, scenes for ever dear! +Remembrance hails you with her warmest tear! +Drooping she bends o'er pensive fancy's urn, +To trace the hours which never can return." + +London: + +Smith, Elder and Co., 65, Cornhill. + +M.DCCC.LXII. + + + + +A FEW WORDS TO THE READER + + +It has been my lot to have lived through the greater part of one of +the most eventful centuries of England's history, and I have been thrown +amongst most of the remarkable men of my day; whether soldiers, statesman, +men of letters, theatrical people, or those whose birth and fortune +- rather, perhaps, than their virtues or talents - have caused them +to be conspicuous in society at home or abroad. Nature having endowed +me with a strong memory, I can recall with all their original vividness +scenes that took place fifty years ago, and distinctly recollect the +face, walk, and voice, as well as the dress and general manner, of everyone +whom I have known. I have frequently repeated to my friends what I have +seen and heard since the year that I joined the Guards (1813), and have +been urged to commit to paper my anecdotes and reminiscences. + +Unfortunately, I have not the power of efficiently describing in words +the pictures that are hung up in the long gallery of my memory: a man +may see very distinctly the landscape before him, yet he may be unable +to delineate that which he gazes upon and is intimately acquainted with. +A viva voce narrative of an incident told to a friend in conversation +may pass muster, and one is able to fill up any gaps in an imperfect +description; but it always occurred to me that I had no right to task +a reader's time and patience unless I could put before him what I had +to say in a lucid and complete form; I therefore refrained from committing +myself to print. I have at length, however, yielded to the suggestion +of friends, and written down some anecdotes in the best way I could. +Soldiers are not generally famous for literary excellence, and when +I was young, the military man was, perhaps, much less a scholar than +he is at the present day; but I hope that the interest of the matter +will make up for any deficiency of style. + +In going over more than half a century, and treating of men, women and +events, it was necessary to leave out many anecdotes which would, perhaps, +have been more interesting than most of those that I have given; for +I would not willingly offend, or hurt the feelings of any one, and I +wish to respect the memory of the dead, as well as to take into consideration +the sensitiveness of the living. My Reminiscences, it will be seen, +are nothing more than miniature illustrations of contemporary history; +and though the reader may find here and there scraps of biographical +matter, I confine myself to facts and characteristics which were familiar +to the circle in which I moved, and perhaps are as much public property +as the painted portraits of celebrities. + +Should this work meet with the approbation of the public, I hope at +a future time to publish an additional one, as my memory still serves +me with sufficient materials for another volume of a similar kind. + +R. H. Gronow. + + + + + +MY ENTRANCE INTO THE ARMY + + +After leaving Eton, I received an Ensign's commission in the First Guards +during the month of December, 1812. Though many years have elapsed, +I still remember my boyish delight at being named to so distinguished +a regiment, and at the prospect of soon taking a part in the glorious +deeds of our army in Spain. I joined in February 1813, and cannot but +recollect with astonishment how limited and imperfect was the instruction +which an officer received at that time: he absolutely entered the army +without any military education whatever. We were so defective in our +drill, even after we had passed out of the hands of the sergeant, that +the excellence of our non-commissioned officers alone prevented us from +meeting with the most fatal disasters in the face of the enemy. Physical +force and our bull-dog energy carried many a hard-fought field. Luckily, +nous avons change tout cela, and our officers may now vie with those +of any other army in an age when the great improvements in musketry, +in artillery practice, and in the greater rapidity of manoeuvring, have +entirely changed the art of war, and rendered the individual education +of those in every grade of command an absolute necessity. + +After passing through the hands of the drill sergeant with my friends +Dashwood, Batty, Browne, Lascelles, Hume, and Masters, and mounting +guard at St. James's for a few months, we were hurried off, one fine +morning, in charge of a splendid detachment of five hundred men to join +Lord Wellington in Spain. Macadam had just begun to do for England +what Marshal Wade did in Scotland seventy years before; and we were +able to march twenty miles a day with ease until we reached Portsmouth. +There we found transports ready to convey a large reinforcement, of +which we formed part, to Lord Wellington, who was now making his arrangements, +after taking St. Sebastian, for a yet more important event in the history +of the Peninsular War - the invasion of France. + + +DEPARTURE FOR AND ARRIVAL IN SPAIN + + +We sailed under convoy of the Madagascar frigate, commanded by Captain +Curtis; and, after a favourable voyage, we arrived at Passages. Our +stay there was short, for we were ordered to join the army without loss +of time. In three hours we got fairly into camp, where we were received +with loud cheers by our brothers in arms. + +The whole British army was here under canvas; our allies, the Spaniards +and Portuguese, being in the rear. About the middle of October, to +our great delight, the army received orders to cross the Bidassoa. +At three o'clock on the morning of the 15th our regiment advanced through +a difficult country, and, after a harassing march, reached the top of +a hill as the gray light of morning began to dawn. We marched in profound +silence, but with a pleasurable feeling of excitement amongst all ranks +at the thought of meeting the enemy, and perhaps with not an equally +agreeable idea that we might be in the next world before the day was over. + +As we ascended the rugged side of the hill, I saw, for the first time, +the immortal Wellington. He was accompanied by the Spanish General, +Alava, Lord Fitzroy Somerset, and Major, afterwards Colonel Freemantle. +He was very stern and grave-looking; he was in deep meditation, so long +as I kept him in view, and spoke to no one. His features were bold, +and I saw much decision of character in his expression. +He rode a knowing-looking, thorough-bred horse, and wore a gray overcoat, +Hessian boots, and a large cocked hat. We commenced the passage of the +Bidassoa about five in the morning, and in a short time infantry, cavalry, +and artillery found themselves upon French ground. The stream at the +point we forded was nearly four feet deep, and had Soult been aware +of what we were about, we should have found the passage of the river +a very arduous undertaking. + +Three miles above, we discovered the French army, and ere long found +ourselves under fire. The sensation of being made a target to a large +body of men is at first not particularly pleasant, but "in a trice, +the ear becomes more Irish and less nice." The first man I ever saw +killed was a Spanish soldier, who was cut in two by a cannon ball. +The French army, not long after we began to return their fire, was in +full retreat; and after a little sharp, but desultory fighting, in which +our Division met with some loss, we took possession of the camp and +strong position of Soult's army. We found the soldiers' huts very comfortable; +they were built of branches of trees and furze, and formed squares and +streets, which had names placarded up, such as Rue de Paris, Rue de +Versailles, &c. We were not sorry to find ourselves in such commodious +quarters, as well as being well housed. The scenery surrounding the +camp was picturesque and grand. From our elevated position, immediately +in front, we commanded a wide and extensive plain, intersected by two +important rivers, the Nive and the Nivelle. On the right, the lofty +Pyrenees, with their grand and varied outline, stood forth conspicuously +in a blue, cloudless sky; on our left was the Bay of Biscay, with our +cruisers perpetually on the move. + +We witnessed from the camp, one night about twelve o'clock, a fight +at sea, between an English brig and a French corvette, which was leaving +the Adour with provisions and ammunition. She was chased by the brig, +and brought to action. The night was sufficiently clear to enable us +to discover distinctly the position of the vessels and the measured +flash of their guns. They were at close quarters, and in less than +half an hour we discovered the crew of the corvette taking to their +boats. Shortly afterwards the vessel blew up with a loud explosion. +We came to the conclusion that sea-fighting was more agreeable than +land-fighting, as the crews of the vessels engaged without previous +heavy marching, and with loose light clothing; there was no manoeuvring +or standing for hours on the defensive; the wounded were immediately +taken below and attended to, and the whole affair was over in a pleasingly +brief period. + + + +THE UNIFORM AND BEARING OF THE FRENCH SOLDIER + + +The French infantry soldier averaged about five feet five or six in +height; in build they were much about what they are now, perhaps a little +broader over the shoulder. They were smart, active, handy fellows, +and much more able to look after their personal comforts than British +soldiers, as their camps indicated. The uniform of those days consisted +in a schako, which spread out at the top; a short-waisted, swallow-tailed +coat; and large, baggy trousers and gaiters. The clothing of the French +soldier was roomy, and enabled him to march and move about at ease: +no pipeclay accessories occupied their attention; in a word, their uniforms +and accoutrements were infinitely superior to our own, taking +into consideration the practical necessities of warfare. Their muskets +were inferior to ours, and their firing less deadly. The French cavalry +we thought badly horsed; but their uniforms, though showy, were, like +those of the infantry, comfortably large and roomy. + +I have frequently remarked that firearms are of little use to the mounted +soldier, and often an incumbrance to man and horse. Cavalry want only +one arm - the sabre. Let the men be well mounted and at home in the +saddle. It requires great knowledge in a Commander-in-chief to know +when and how to use his cavalry. It has been my misfortune to witness +oft-repeated blunders in the employment of the best-mounted regiments +in the world. I consider the French generals had more knowledge of +the use of cavalry than our own, when a great battle was to be fought. + + + +MAJOR-GENERAL STEWART AND LORD WELLINGTON + + + +If the present generation of Englishmen would take the trouble of looking +at the newspaper which fifty years ago informed the British public of +passing events both at home and abroad, they would, doubtless, marvel +at the very limited and imperfect amount of intelligence which the best +journals were enabled to place before their readers. The progress of +the Peninsular campaign was very imperfectly chronicled; it will, therefore, +be easily imagined what interest was attached to certain letters that +appeared in the Morning Chronicle which criticised with much severity, +and frequently with considerable injustice, the military movements of +Lord Wellington's Spanish campaign. + +The attention of the Commander-in-Chief being drawn to these periodical +and personal comments on his conduct of the war, his lordship at once +perceived from the information which they contained that they must have +been written by an officer holding a high command under him. Determined +to ascertain the author - who, in addressing a public journal, was violating +the Articles of War, and, it might be, assisting the enemy - means were +employed in London to identify the writer. The result was, that Lord +Wellington discovered the author of the letters to be no other than +Sir Charles Stewart, the late Lord Londonderry. As soon as Lord Wellington +had made himself master of this fact, he summoned Sir Charles Stewart +to head-quarters at Torres Vedras; and on his appearance, he, without +the least preface, addressed him thus: - + +"Charles Stewart, I have ascertained with deep regret that you are the +author of the letters which appeared in the Morning Chronicle abusing +me and finding fault with my military plans." + +Lord Wellington paused here for a moment, and then continued: + +"Now, Stewart, you know your brother Castlereagh is my best friend, +to whom I owe everything; nevertheless, if you continue to write letters +to the Chronicle, or any other newspaper, by God, I will send you home." + +Sir Charles Stewart was so affected at this rebuke that he shed tears, +and expressed himself deeply penitent for the breach of confidence and +want of respect for the Articles of War. They immediately shook hands +and parted friends. It happened, however, that Sir Charles Stewart +did not remain long in the cavalry, of which he was Adjutant-General. +Within a few weeks he was named one of the Commissioners deputed to +proceed to the Allied Armies, where the Sovereigns were then completing +their plans to crush Napoleon. + + +ST. JEAN DE LUZ + + +During the winter of 1813, the Guards were stationed with head-quarters +at St Jean de Luz, and most comfortable we managed to make them. For +some short time previously we had been on scanty commons, and had undergone +considerable privation: indeed we might have said, like the Colonel +to Johnny Newcome on his arrival to join his regiment, "We sons of Mars +have long been fed on brandy and cigars." I had no cause to complain +personally; for my servant, a Sicilian, was one of the most accomplished +foragers (ill-natured persons might give him a worse name) in the whole +army; and when others were nearly starving, he always managed to provide +meat or poultry. He rode on his mule sometimes from twenty to thirty +miles, often running the greatest dangers, to procure me a good meal; +of which he took care to have, very justly, a large share for himself. + +At St Jean de Luz, we were more attentive to our devotions than we had +been for some time. Divine service was performed punctually every Sunday +on the sand-hills near the town; Lord Wellington and his numerous Staff +placed themselves in the midst of our square, and his lordship's chaplain +read the service, to which Lord Wellington always appeared to listen +with great attention. + +The mayor of the town, thinking to please "the great English lord," +gave a ball at the Hotel de Ville: our Commander-in-Chief did not go +but was represented by Waters. I was there, and expected to see some +of the young ladies of the country so famed for their beauty; they were, +however, far too patriotic to appear, and the only lady present was +Lady Waldegrave, then living with her husband at head-quarters. What +was one partner among so many? The ball was a dead failure, in spite +of the efforts of the mayor, who danced, to our intense amusement, an +English hornpipe, which he had learnt in not a very agreeable manner, +viz. when a prisoner of war in the hulks at Plymouth. + +There were two packs of hounds at St Jean de Luz; one kept by Lord Wellington, +the other by Marsden, of the Commissariat: our officers went uncommonly +straight. Perhaps our best man across country (though sometimes somewhat +against his will) was the late Colonel Lascelles of my regiment, then, +like myself, a mere lad. He rode a horse seventeen hands high, called +Bucephalus, which invariably ran away with him, and more than once had +nearly capsized Lord Wellington. The good living at St Jean de Luz +agreed so well with my friend that he waxed fat, and from that period +to his death was known to the world by the jovial appellation of Bacchus +Lascelles. + +Shortly before we left St Jean de Luz, we took our turn of outposts +in the neighbourhood of Bidart, a large village, about ten miles from +Bayonne. Early one frosty morning in December, an order came, that if +we saw the enemy advancing, we were not to fire or give the alarm. +About five, we perceived two battalions wearing grenadier caps coming +on. They turned out to belong to a Nassau regiment which had occupied +the advanced post of the enemy, and, hearing that Napoleon had met with +great reverses in Germany, signified to us their intention to desert. +They were a fine-looking body of men, and appeared, I thought, rather +ashamed of the step they had taken. On the same day, we were relieved, +and on our way back met Lord Wellington with his hounds. He was dressed +in a light blue frock coat (the colour of the Hatfield hunt) which had +been sent out to him as a present from Lady Salisbury, then one of the +leaders of the fashionable world, and an enthusiastic admirer of his lordship. + +Here, I remember seeing for the first time a very remarkable character, +the Hon. W. Dawson, of my regiment. He was surrounded by muleteers, +with whom he was bargaining to provide carriage for innumerable hampers +of wine, liqueurs, hams, potted meat, and other good things, which he +had brought from England. He was a particularly gentlemanly and amiable +man, much beloved by the regiment: no one was so hospitable or lived +so magnificently. His cooks were the best in the army, and he, besides, +had a host of servants of all nations - Spaniards, French, Portuguese, +Italians - who were employed in scouring the country for provisions. +Lord Wellington once honoured him with his company; and on entering +the ensign's tent, found him alone at table, with a dinner fit for a +king, his plate and linen in good keeping, and his wines perfect. Lord +Wellington was accompanied on this occasion by Sir Edward Pakenham and +Colonel du Burgh, afterwards Lord Downes. It fell to my lot to partake +of his princely hospitality and dine with him at his quarters, a farmhouse +in a village on the Bidassoa, and I never saw a better dinner put upon +table. The career of this amiable Amphitryon, to our great regret, was +cut short, after exercising for about a year a splendid but not very +wise hospitality. He had only a younger brother's fortune; his debts +became very considerable, and he was obliged to quit the Guards. He +and his friends had literally eaten up his little fortune. + + +FOOLHARDINESS + + +I may here recount an instance of the folly and foolhardiness of youth, +and the recklessness to which a long course of exposure to danger produces. +When Bayonne was invested, I was one night on duty on the outer picket. +The ground inside the breastwork which had been thrown up for our protection +by Burgoyne was in a most disagreeable state for any one who wished +to repose after the fatigues of the day, being knee-deep in mud of a +remarkably plastic nature. I was dead tired, and determined to get +a little rest in some more agreeable spot; so calling my sergeant, I +told him to give me his knapsack for a pillow; I would make a comfortable +night of it on the top of the breastwork, as it was an invitingly dry +place. "For heaven's sake take care, sir," said he; " you'll have fifty +bullets in you: you will be killed to a certainty." "Pooh, nonsense," +said I, and climbing up, I wrapt myself in my cloak, laid my head on +the knapsack, and soon fell into a sound sleep. + +By the mercy of Providence I remained in a whole skin, either from the +French immediately underneath not perceiving me, or not thinking me +worth a shot; but when General Stopford came up with Lord James Hay +(who not long since reminded me of this youthful escapade) I received +a severe wigging, and was told to consider myself lucky that I was not +put under arrest for exposing my life in so foolish a manner. + +Among the many officers of the Guards who were taken prisoners in the +unfortunate sortie from Bayonne, was the Hon. H. Townshend, commonly +called Bull Townshend. He was celebrated as a bon vivant, and in consequence +of his too great indulgence in the pleasures of the table, had become +very unwieldy and could not move quick enough to please his nimble captors, +so he received many prods in the back from a sharp bayonet. After repeated +threats, however, he was dismissed with what our American friends would +be pleased to designate "a severe booting." The late Sir Willoughby +Cotton was also a prisoner. It really seemed as if the enemy had made +choice of our fattest officers. Sir Willoughby escaped by giving up +his watch and all the money which he had in his pockets; but this consisting +of a Spanish dollar only, the smallness of the sum subjected him to +the same ignominious treatment as had been experienced by Townshend. + +Among the numerous bad characters in our ranks, several were coiners, +or utterers of bad money. In the second brigade of Guards, just before +we arrived at St. Jean de Luz, a soldier was convicted of this offence, +and was sentenced to receive 800 lashes. This man made sham Spanish +dollars out of the pewter spoons of the regiment. As he had before +been convicted and flogged, he received this terrible sentence, and +died under the lash. Would it not have been better to have condemned +him to be shot? - It would have been more humane, certainly more military, +and far less brutal. + + +DISCIPLINE + + +When the headquarters of the army were at St Jean de Luz, Soult made +a movement in front of our right centre, which the English general took +for a reconnaissance. As the French general perceived that we had ordered +preparations to receive him, he sent a flag of truce to demand a cessation +of hostilities, saying that he wanted to shoot an officer and several +men for acts of robbery committed by them, with every sort of atrocity, +on the farmers and peasantry of the country. The execution took place +in view of both armies, and a terrible lesson it was. I cannot specify +the date of this event, but think it must have been the latter end of +November, 1813. About the same time General Harispe, who commanded a +corps of Basques, issued a proclamation forbidding the peasantry to +supply the English with provisions or forage, on pain of death; it stated +that we were savages, and, as a proof of this, our horses were born +with short tails. I saw this absurd proclamation, which was published +in French and in the Basque languages, and distributed all over the +country. Before we left the neighbourhood of Bayonne for Bordeaux, a +soldier was hanged for robbery, on the sands of the Adour. This sort +of punishment astonished the French almost as much as it did the soldier. +On a march we were very severe, and if any of our men were caught committing +an act of violence or brigandage, the offender was tried by a drum-head +court-martial, and hanged in a very short time. + +I knew an officer of the 18th Hussars, W. R., young, rich, and a fine-looking +fellow, who joined the army not far from St Sebastian. His stud of +horses was remarkable for their blood, his grooms were English, and +three in number. He brought with him a light cart to carry forage, +and a fourgon for his own baggage. All went on well, till he came to +go on outpost duty; but not finding there any of the comforts to which +he had been accustomed, he quietly mounted his charger, told his astonished +sergeant that campaigning was not intended for a gentleman, and instantly +galloped off to his quarters, ordering his servants to pack up everything +immediately, as he had hired a transport to take him off to England. +He left us before any one had time to stop him; and though despatches +were sent off to the Commander-in-Chief, requesting that a court-martial +might sit to try the young deserter, he arrived home long enough before +the despatches to enable him to sell out of his regiment. He deserved +to have been shot. + +Sir John Hope, who commanded our corps d'armee at Bayonne, had his quarters +at a village on the Adour, called Beaucauld. He was good enough to +name me to the command of the village; which honour I did not hold for +many days, for the famous sortie from Bayonne took place soon after, +and the general was made prisoner. + + +SIR JOHN WATERS + + +Amongst the distinguished men in the Peninsular war whom my memory brings +occasionally before me, is the well-known and highly popular Quartermaster +General Sir John Waters, who was born at Margam, a Welsh village in +Glamorganshire. He was one of those extraordinary persons that seem +created by kind nature for particular purposes; and, without using the +word in an offensive sense, he was the most admirable spy that was ever +attached to an army. One would almost have thought that the Spanish +war was entered upon and carried on in order to display his remarkable +qualities. He could assume the character of Spaniards of every degree +and station, so as to deceive the most acute of those whom he delighted +to imitate. In the posada of the village he was hailed by the contrabandist +or the muleteer as one of their own race; in the gay assemblies he was +an accomplished hidalgo; at the bull-fight the toreador received his +congratulations as from one who had encountered the toro in the arena; +in the church he would converse with the friar upon the number of Ave +Marias and Pater-nosters which could lay a ghost, or tell him the history +of everyone who had perished by the flame of the Inquisition, relating +his crime, whether carnal or anti-Catholic; and he could join in the +seguadilla or in the guaracha. But what rendered him more efficient +than all was his wonderful power of observation and accurate description, +which made the information he gave so reliable and valuable to the Duke +of Wellington. Nothing escaped him. When amidst a group of persons, +he would minutely watch the movement, attitude, and expression of every +individual that composed it; in the scenery by which he was surrounded +he would carefully mark every object:- not a tree, not a bush, not a +large stone, escaped his observation; and it was said that in a cottage +he noted every piece of crockery on the shelf, every domestic utensil, +and even the number of knives and forks that were got ready for use +at dinner. His acquaintance with the Spanish language was marvellous; +from the finest works of Calderon to the ballads in the patois of every +province, he could quote, to the infinite delight of those with whom +he associated. He could assume any character that he pleased: he could +be the Castilian, haughty and reserved; the Asturian, stupid and plodding; +the Catalonian, intriguing and cunning; the Andalusian, laughing and +merry;- in short, he was all things to all men. Nor was he incapable +of passing off, when occasion required, for a Frenchman; but as he spoke +the language with a strong German accent, he called himself an Alsatian. +He maintained that character with the utmost nicety; and as there is +a strong feeling of fellowship, almost equal to that which exists in +Scotland, amongst all those who are born in the departments of France +bordering on the Rhine, and who maintain their Teutonic originality, +he always found friends and supporters in every regiment in the French +service. + +He was on one occasion entrusted with a very difficult mission by the +Duke of Wellington, which he undertook effectually to perform, and to +return on a particular day with the information that was required. + +Great was the disappointment when it was ascertained beyond a doubt +that just after leaving the camp he had been taken prisoner, before +he had time to exchange his uniform. Such, however, was the case: a +troop of dragoons had intercepted him, and carried him off; and the +commanding officer desired two soldiers to keep a strict watch over +him and carry him to head-quarters. He was of course disarmed, and +being placed on a horse, was, after a short time, galloped off by his +guards. He slept one night under durance vile at a small inn, where +he was allowed to remain in the kitchen; conversation flowed on very +glibly, and as he appeared a stupid Englishman, who could not understand +a word of French or Spanish, he was allowed to listen, and thus obtained +precisely the intelligence that he was in search of. The following +morning, being again mounted, he overheard a conversation between his +guards, who deliberately agreed to rob him, and to shoot him at a mill +where they were to stop, and to report to their officer that they had +been compelled to fire at him in consequence of his attempt to escape. + +Shortly before they arrived at the mill, for fear that they might meet +with some one who would insist on having a portion of the spoil, the +dragoons took from the prisoner his watch and his purse, which he surrendered +with a good grace. On their arrival at the mill, they dismounted, and +in order to give some appearance of truth to their story, they went +into the house; leaving their prisoner outside, in the hope that he +would make some attempt to escape. In an instant Waters threw his cloak +upon a neighbouring olive bush, and mounted his cocked hat on the top. +Some empty flour sacks lay upon the ground, and a horse laden with well-filled +flour sacks stood at the door. Sir John contrived to enter one of the +empty sacks and throw himself across the horse. When the soldiers came +out of the house they fired their carbines at the supposed prisoner, +and galloped off at their utmost speed. + +A short time after the miller came out and mounted his steed; the general +contrived to rid himself of the encumbrance of the sack, and sat up, +riding behind the man, who, suddenly turning round, saw a ghost, as +he believed, for the flour that still remained in the sack had completely +whitened his fellow-traveller and given him a most unearthly appearance. +The frightened miller was "putrified," as Mrs. Malaprop would say, at +the sight, and a push from the white spectre brought the unfortunate +man to the ground, when away rode the gallant quartermaster with his +sacks of flour, which, at length bursting, made a ludicrous spectacle +of man and horse. + +On reaching the English camp, where Lord Wellington was anxiously deploring +his fate, a sudden shout from the soldiers made his lordship turn round, +when a figure, resembling the statue in "Don Juan," galloped up to him. +The duke, affectionately shaking him by the hand, said - + +"Waters, you never yet deceived me; and though you have come in a most +questionable shape, I must congratulate you and myself." + +When this story was told at the clubs, one of those listeners, who always +want something more, called out, "Well, and what did Waters say? " +to which Alvanley replied - + +"Oh, Waters made a very flowery speech, like a well-bred man." + + +THE BATTLE OF THE NIVELLE + + +We expected to remain quietly in our winter quarters at St. Jean de +Luz; but, to our surprise, early one morning, we were aroused from sleep +by the beating of the drum calling us to arms. We were soon in marching +order. It appeared that our outposts had been severely pushed by the +French, and we were called upon to support our companions in arms. + +The whole of the British army, as well as the division of the Guards, +had commenced a forward movement. Soult, seeing this, entirely changed +his tactics, and from that time, viz. the 9th of December, a series +of engagements took place. The fighting on the 9th was comparatively +insignificant. When we were attacked on the 10th, the Guards held the +mayor's house, and the grounds and orchards attached: this was an important +station. + +Large bodies of the enemy's infantry approached, and, after desultory +fighting, succeeded in penetrating our position, when many hand-to- +hand combats ensued. Towards the afternoon, officers and men having +displayed great gallantry, we drove the enemy from the ground which +they courageously disputed with us, and from which they eventually retreated +to Bayonne. Every day there was constant fighting along the whole of +our line, which extended from the sea to the lower Pyrenees - a distance +probably not less than thirty miles. + +On the 1lth, we only exchanged a few shots, but on the 12th Soult brought +into action from fifteen to twenty thousand men, and attacked our left +with a view of breaking our line. One of the most remarkable incidents +of the 12th was the fact of an English battalion being surrounded by +a division of French in the neighbourhood of the mayor's house - which, +as before observed, was one of our principal strategical positions. +The French commanding officer, believing that no attempt would be made +to resist, galloped up to the officer of the British regiment, and demanded +his sword. Upon this, without the least hesitation, the British officer +shouted out, "This fellow wants us to surrender: charge, my boys! and +show them what stuff we are made of." Instantaneously, a hearty cheer +rang out, and our men rushed forward impetuously, drove off the enemy +at the point of the bayonet, and soon disposed of the surrounding masses. +In a few minutes they had taken prisoners, or killed, the whole of the +infantry regiment opposed to them. + +On the 13th was fought the bloody battle of the Nivelle. Soult had +determined to make a gigantic effort to drive us back into Spain. During +the night of the 12th, he rapidly concentrated about sixty thousand +troops in front of Sir Rowland Hill's corps d'armee, consisting of 15,000 +men, who occupied a very strong position, which was defended by some +of the best artillery in the world. At daybreak Sir Rowland Hill was +astonished to find himself threatened by masses of infantry advancing +over a country luckily intersected by rivulets, hedges, and woods, which +prevented the enemy from making a rapid advance; whilst, at the same +time, it was impossible on such ground to employ cavalry. Sir Rowland, +availing himself of an elevated position, hurriedly surveyed his ground, +and concentrated his men at such points as he knew the nature of the +field would induce the enemy to attack. The French, confident of success +from their superior numbers, came gallantly up, using the bayonet for +the first time in a premeditated attack; Our men stood their ground, +and for hours acted purely on the defensive; being sustained by the +admirable practice of our artillery, whose movements no difficulty of +ground could, on this occasion, impede, so efficiently were the guns +horsed, and so perfect was the training of the officers. It was not +until mid-day that the enemy became discouraged at finding that they +were unable to make any serious impression on our position; they then +retired in good order, Sir Rowland Hill not daring to follow them. + +Lord Wellington arrived just in time to witness the end of the battle; +and while going over the field with Sir Rowland Hill, he remarked that +he had never seen so many men hors de combat in so small a space. + +I must not omit to mention a circumstance which occurred during this +great fight, alike illustrative of cowardice and of courage. The colonel +of an infantry regiment, who shall be nameless, being hard pressed, +showed a disposition not only to run away himself, but to order his +regiment to retire. In fact, a retrograde movement had commenced, when +my gallant and dear friend Lord Charles Spencer, aide-de-camp to Sir +William Stewart, dashed forward, and, seizing the colours of the regiment, +exclaimed, "If your colonel will not lead you, follow me, my boys." +The gallantry of this youth, then only eighteen years of age, so animated +the regiment, and restored their confidence, that they rallied and shared +in the glory of the day. + + +THE PASSAGE OF THE ADOUR + + +Immediately after the battle of Nivelle, Lord Wellington determined +to advance his whole line on to French ground. The right, under his +own command, pushed on towards Orthes, whilst the left, under the command +of Sir John Hope, proceeded in the direction of Bayonne. We (the Guards) +were incorporated in the latter corps d'armee. + +Whilst these operations were going on, Soult was organizing his discouraged +army, in order to make, as early as possible, another convenient stand. +The enemy fell back on Orthes, and there took up a strong position; +Soult was, nevertheless, destined to be beaten again at Orthes. It +so happened that, for the first time since the battle of Vittoria, our +cavalry were engaged: the nature of the ground at Nive and Nivelle was +such as to prevent the possibility of employing the mounted soldier. + +I must here record an incident which created a considerable sensation +in military circles in connection with the battle of Orthes. The 10th +Hussars, officered exclusively by men belonging to the noblest families +of Great Britain, showed a desire to take a more active part in the +contest than their colonel (Quintin) thought prudent. They pressed hard +to be permitted to charge the French cavalry on more than one occasion, +but in vain. This so disgusted every officer in the regiment, that +they eventually signed a round robin, by which they agreed never again +to speak to their colonel. When the regiment returned to England, a +court of inquiry was held, which resulted, through the protection of +the Prince Regent, in the colonel's exoneration from all blame, and +at the same time the exchange of the rebellious officers into other regiments. + +It was at the battle of Orthes that the late Duke of Richmond was shot +through the body, gallantly fighting with the 7th Fusiliers. Lord Wellington +had determined to cross the Adour, and Sir John Hope was intrusted with +a corps d'armee, which was the first to perform this difficult operation. +It was necessary to provide Sir John Hope with a number of small boats; +these were accordingly brought on the backs of mules from various Spanish +ports, it being impossible, on account of the surf at the entrance of +the Adour, as well as the command which the French held of that river, +for Lord Wellington to avail himself of water carriage. Soult had given +orders for the forces under General Thevenot to dispute the passage. + +The first operations of our corps were to throw over the 3rd Guards, +under the command of the gallant Colonel Stopford; this was not accomplished +without much difficulty: but it was imperatively necessary, in order +to protect the point where the construction of the bridge of boats would +terminate. They had not been long on the French side of the river before +a considerable body of men were seen issuing from Bayonne. Sir John +Hope ordered our artillery, and rockets, then for the first time employed, +to support our small band. Three or four regiments of French infantry +were approaching rapidly, when a well-directed fire of rockets fell +amongst them. The consternation of the Frenchmen was such, when these +hissing, serpent-like projectiles descended, that a panic ensued, and +they re- treated upon Bayonne. The next day the bridge of boats was +completed, and the whole army crossed. Bayonne was eventually invested +after a contest, in which it was supposed our loss exceeded 500 or 600 +men. Here we remained in camp about six weeks, expecting to besiege +the citadel; but this event never came off: we, however, met with a +severe disaster and a reverse. The enemy made an unexpected sortie, +and surrounded General Sir John Hope, when he and the whole of his staff +were taken prisoners. The French killed and wounded about 1,000 men +on this occasion. + +The hardly-contested battle of Toulouse was fought about this period, +but the Guards were not present to share the honours of a contest which +closed the eventful war of the Spanish Peninsula. + + +ARRIVAL OF THE GUARDS AT BORDEAUX + + +When we reached Bordeaux, which had now become a stronghold of the Royalists, +we were received by the inhabitants with a welcome which resembled what +would be shown to friends and deliverers, rather than to a foreign soldiery. +Nothing could be more gratifying and more acceptable to our feelings, +since it was the first time after our arrival on the Continent that +we met with cordiality and an apparent desire to make our quarters as +comfortable as possible. The Duc d'Angouleme had reached Bordeaux before +us, and no doubt his presence had prepared the way for all the friends +of the Bourbons. Everywhere some description of white rag was doing +duty for a Royalist banner. I lived at M. Devigne's, a rich wine-merchant +who had a family of two sons and two beautiful daughters; the latter +were, as I thought, taken remarkable care of by their maternal parent. +Here I had evidently fallen upon my legs, for not only was the family +a most agreeable one, but their hospitality was of the most generous +kind. Sir Stapylton Cotton was our frequent visitor, together with M. +Martignac, afterwards Minister of Charles the Tenth. + +Here I had an opportunity of meeting some of the prettiest women of +a city famed all over Europe for its female beauty. The young ladies +were remarkable for their taste in dress, which in those days consisted +of a mantilla a l'Espagnole, and silken shawls of varied hues, so admirably +blended, that the eye was charmed with their richness of colour. The +grisettes, who were as much admired by the soldiers as were the high +dames by the officers, were remarkable for a coquettish species of apron +of a red dye, which was only to be obtained from the neighbourhood. + +Of course we were all very anxious to taste the Bordeaux wines; but +our palates, accustomed to the stronger vintages of Spain, I suspect +were not in a condition to appreciate the more delicate and refined +bouquets which ought to characterize claret. A vin ordinaire, which +now at restaurateur's would cost three francs, was then furnished at +the hotels for fifteen sous: a Larose, Lafitte, Margot, such as we are +now paying eight or ten francs a bottle for, did not cost a third. +I must not, however, forget that greater attention and care is now employed +in the preparation of French wines. The exportation to England of the +light red wines of France was not sufficiently profitable, as I learnt +from my host, at that time to attract the cupidity of commerce. + +In the Guards, Bordeaux was more affectionately remembered in connexion +with its women than its wine. We left it with regret, and the more +youthful and imaginative amongst us said that we were wafted across +the Channel by the gentle sighs of the girls we left behind us." + + +MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE + + +Our army, despite its defects, was nevertheless infinitely better administered +at home when I joined than it had been a few years before; owing principally +to the inquiry that had taken place in the House of Commons, relative +to the bribery and corruption which had crept in, and which had been +laid open by the confessions of a female, who created no small sensation +in those days, and who eventually terminated her extraordinary career, +not very long since, in Paris. + +The squibs fired off by Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke had a much greater influence, +and produced more effect upon the English army, than all the artillery +of the enemy directed against the Duke of York when commanding in Holland. +This lady was remarkable for her beauty and her fascinations; and few +came within the circle over which she presided who did not acknowledge +her superior power. Her wit, which kept the House of Commons, during +her examination, in a continued state of merriment, was piquant and +saucy. Her answers on that occasion have been so often brought before +the public, that I need not repeat them; but, in private life, her quick +repartee, and her brilliant sallies, rendered her a lively, though not +always an agreeable companion. As for prudence, she had none; her dearest +friend, if she had any, was just as likely to be made the object of +her ridicule as the most obnoxious person of her acquaintance. + +Her narrative of her first introduction to the Duke of York has often +been repeated; but, as all her stories were considered apocryphal, it +is difficult to arrive at a real history of her career. Certain however, +is it that, about the age of sixteen, she was residing at Blackheath +- a sweet, pretty, lively girl - when, in her daily walk across the +heath, she was passed, on two or three occasions, by a handsome, well-dressed +cavalier, who, finding that she recognised his salute, dismounted; pleased +with her manner and wit, he begged to be allowed to introduce a friend. +Accordingly, on her consenting, a person to whom the cavalier appeared +to pay every sort of deference was presented to her, and the acquaintance +ripened into something more than friendship. Not the slightest idea +had the young lady of the position in society of her lover, until she +accompanied him, on his invitation, to the theatre, where she occupied +a private box, when she was surprised at the ceremony with which she +was treated, and at observing that every eye and every lorgnette in +the house were directed towards her in the course of the evening. She +accepted this as a tribute to her beauty. Finding that she could go +again to the theatre when she pleased, and occupy the same box, she +availed herself of this opportunity with a female friend, and was not +a little astonished at being addressed as Her Royal Highness. She then +discovered that the individual into whose affections she had insinuated +herself was the son of the King, the Duke of York, who had not long +before united himself to a lady, for whom she had been mistaken. + +Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke was soon reconciled to the thought of being the +wife of a prince by the left hand, particularly as she found herself +assiduously courted by persons of the highest rank, and more especially +by military men. A large house in a fashionable street was taken for +her, and an establishment on a magnificent scale gave her an opportunity +of surrounding herself with persons of a sphere far beyond anything +she could in her younger days have dreamt of; her father having been +in an honourable trade, and her husband being only a captain in a marching +regiment. The duke, delighted to see his fair friend so well received, +constantly honoured her dinner-table with his presence, and willingly +gratified any wish that she expressed; and he must have known (and for +this he was afterwards highly censured) that her style of living was +upon a scale of great expense, and that he himself contributed little +towards it. The consequence was that the hospitable lady eventually +became embarrassed, and knew not which way to turn to meet her outlay. +It was suggested to her that she might obtain from the duke commissions +in the army, which she could easily dispose of at a good price. Individuals +quickly came forward, ready to purchase anything that came within her +grasp, which she extended not only to the army, but, as it afterwards +appeared, to the Church; for there were reverend personages who availed +themselves of her assistance, and thus obtained patronage, by which +they advanced their worldly interests very rapidly. + + +MRS. MARY ANNE CLARKE AND COL. WARDLE + + +Amongst those who paid great attention to Mrs. Mary Anne Clarke was +Colonel Wardle, at that time a remarkable member of the House of Commons, +and a bold leader of the Radical Opposition. He got intimately acquainted +with her, and was so great a personal favourite that it was believed +he wormed out all her secret history, of which he availed himself to +obtain a fleeting popularity. + +Having obtained the names of some of the parties who had been fortunate +enough, as they imagined, to secure the lady's favour, he loudly demanded +an inquiry in the House of Commons as to the management of the army +by the Commander-in-Chief, the Duke of York. The nation and the army +were fond of his Royal Highness, and every attempt to screen him was +made; but in vain. The House undertook the task of investigating the +conduct of the duke, and witnesses were produced, amongst whom was the +fair lady herself, who by no means attempted to screen her imprudent +admirer. Her responses to the questions put to her were cleverly and +archly given, and the whole mystery of her various intrigues came to +light. The duke consequently resigned his place in the Horse Guards, +and at the same time repudiated the beautiful and dangerous cause of +his humiliation. The lady, incensed at the desertion of her royal swain, +announced her intention of publishing his love-letters, which were likely +to expose the whole of the royal family to ridicule, as they formed +the frequent themes of his correspondence. Sir Herbert Taylor was therefore +commissioned to enter into a negotiation for the purchase of the letters; +this he effected at an enormous price, obtaining a written document +at the same time by which Mrs. Clarke was subjected to heavy penalties +if she, by word or deed, implicated the honour of any of the branches +of the royal family. A pension was secured to her, on condition that +she should quit England, and reside wherever she chose on the Continent. +To all this she consented, and, in the first instance, went to Brussels, +where her previous history being scarcely known, she was well received; +and she married her daughters without any inquiry as to the fathers +to whom she might ascribe them. + +Mrs. Clarke afterwards settled quietly and comfortably in Paris, receiving +occasionally visits from members of the aristocracy who had known her +when mingling in a certain circle in London. The Marquis of Londonderry +never failed to pay his respects to her, entertaining a very high opinion +of her talents. Her manners were exceedingly agreeable, and to the +latest day she retained pleasing traces of past beauty. She was lively, +sprightly, and full of fun, and indulged in innumerable anecdotes of +the members of the royal family of England - some of them much too scandalous +to be repeated. She regarded the Duke of York as a big baby, not out +of his leading-strings, and the Prince of Wales as an idle sensualist, +with just enough of brains to be guided by any laughing, well-bred individual +who would listen to stale jokes and impudent ribaldry. Of Queen Charlotte +she used to speak with the utmost disrespect, attributing to her a love +of domination and a hatred of every one who would not bow down before +any idol that she chose to set up; and as being envious of the Princess +Caroline and her daughter the Princess Charlotte of Wales, and jealous +of their acquiring too much influence over the Prince of Wales. In +short, Mary Anne Clarke had been so intimately let into every secret +of the life of the royal family that, had she not been tied down, her +revelations would have astonished the world, however willing the people +might have been to believe that they were tinged with scandal and exaggeration. + + +The way in which Colonel Wardle first obtained information of the sale +of commissions was singular enough: he was paying a clandestine visit +to Mrs. Clarke, when a carriage with the royal livery drove up to the +door, and the gallant officer was compelled to take refuge under the +sofa; but instead of the royal duke, there appeared one of his aide-de-camps, +who entered into conversation in so mysterious a manner as to excite +the attention of the gentleman under the sofa, and led him to believe +that the sale of a commission was authorised by the Commander-in-Chief; +though it afterwards appeared that it was a private arrangement of the +unwelcome visitor. At the Horse-Guards, it had often been suspected +that there was a mystery connected with commissions that could not be +fathomed; as it frequently happened that the list of promotions agreed +on was surreptitiously increased by the addition of new names. This +was the crafty handiwork of the accomplished dame; the duke having employed +her as his amanuensis, and being accustomed to sign her autograph lists +without examination. + + +SOCIETY IN LONDON IN 1814 + + +In the year 1814, my battalion of the Guards was once more in its old +quarters in Portman Street barracks, enjoying the fame of our Spanish +campaign. Good society at the period to which I refer was, to use a +familiar expression, wonderfully "select." At the present time one +can hardly conceive the importance which was attached to getting admission +to Almack's, the seventh heaven of the fashionable world. Of the three +hundred officers of the Foot Guards, not more than half a dozen were +honoured with vouchers of admission to this exclusive temple of the +beau monde; the gates of which were guarded by lady patronesses, whose +smiles or frowns consigned men and women to happiness or despair. These +lady patronesses were the Ladies Castlereagh, Jersey, Cowper, and Sefton, +Mrs. Drummond Burrell, now Lady Willoughby, the Princess Esterhazy, +and the Countess Lieven. + +The most popular amongst these grandes dames was unquestionably Lady +Cowper, now Lady Palmerston. Lady Jersey's bearing, on the contrary, +was that of a theatrical tragedy queen; and whilst attempting the sublime, +she frequently made herself simply ridiculous, being inconceivably rude, +and in her manner often ill-bred. Lady Sefton was kind and amiable, +Madame de Lieven haughty and exclusive, Princess Esterhazy was a bon +enfant, Lady Castlereagh and Mrs. Burrell de tres grandes dames. + +Many diplomatic arts, much finesse, and a host of intrigues, were set +in motion to get an invitation to Almack's. Very often persons whose +rank and fortunes entitled them to the entree anywhere, were excluded +by the cliqueism of the lady patronesses; for the female government +of Almack's was a pure despotism, and subject to all the caprices of +despotic rule: it is needless to add that, like every other despotism, +it was not innocent of abuses. The fair ladies who ruled supreme over +this little dancing and gossiping world, issued a solemn proclamation +that no gentleman should appear at the assemblies without being dressed +in knee-breeches, white cravat, and chapeau bras. On one occasion, +the Duke of Wellington was about to ascend the staircase of the ball-room, +dressed in black trousers, when the vigilant Mr. Willis, the guardian +of the establishment, stepped forward and said, "Your Grace cannot be +admitted in trousers," whereupon the Duke, who had a great respect for +orders and regulations, quietly walked away. + +In 1814, the dances at Almack's were Scotch reels and the old English +country-dance; and the orchestra, being from Edinburgh, was conducted +by the then celebrated Neil Gow. It was not until 1815 that Lady Jersey +introduced from Paris the favourite quadrille, which has so long remained +popular. I recollect the persons who formed the very first quadrille +that was ever danced at Almack's: they were Lady Jersey, Lady Harriet +Butler, Lady Susan Ryder, and Miss Montgomery; the men being the Count +St. Aldegonde, Mr. Montgomery, Mr. Montague, and Charles Standish. +The "mazy waltz" was also brought to us about this time; but there were +comparatively few who at first ventured to whirl round the salons of +Almack's; in course of time Lord Palmerston might, however, have been +seen describing an infinite number of circles with Madame de Lieven. +Baron de Neumann was frequently seen perpetually turning with the Princess +Esterhazy; and, in course of time, the waltzing mania, having turned +the heads of society generally, descended to their feet, and the waltz +was practised in the morning in certain noble mansions in London with +unparalleled assiduity. + +The dandies of society were Beau Brummell (of whom I shall have to say +something on another occasion), the Duke of Argyle, the Lords Worcester, +Alvanley, and Foley, Henry Pierrepoint, John Mills, Bradshaw, Henry +de Ros, Charles Standish, Edward Montagu, Hervey Aston, Dan Mackinnon, +George Dawson Damer, Lloyd (commonly known as Rufus Lloyd), and others +who have escaped my memory. They were great frequenters of White's +Club, in St. James's Street, where, in the famous bay window, they mustered +in force. + +Drinking and play were more universally indulged in then than at the +present time, and many men still living must remember the couple of +bottles of port at least which accompanied his dinner in those days. +Indeed, female society amongst the upper classes was most notoriously +neglected; except, perhaps, by romantic foreigners, who were the heroes +of many at fashionable adventure that fed the clubs with ever acceptable +scandal. How could it be otherwise, when husbands spent their days in +the hunting-field, or were entirely occupied with politics, and always +away from home during the day; whilst the dinner-party, commencing at +seven or eight, frequently did not break up before one in the morning. +There were then four-, and even five-bottle men; and the only thing +that saved them was drinking very slowly, and out of very small glasses. +The learned head of the law, Lord Eldon, and his brother, Lord Stowell, +used to say that they had drunk more bad port than any two men in England; +indeed, the former was rather apt to be overtaken, and to speak occasionally +somewhat thicker than natural, after long and heavy potations. The +late Lords Panmure, Dufferin, and Blayney, wonderful to relate, were +six-bottle men at this time; and I really think that if the good society +of 1815 could appear before their more moderate descendants in the state +they were generally reduced to after dinner, the moderns would pronounce +their ancestors fit for nothing but bed. + + +THE ITALIAN OPERA. - CATALANI + + +The greatest vocalist of whom I have a recollection, is Madame Catalani. +In her youth, she was the finest singer in Europe, and she was much +sought after by all the great people during her sejour in London. She +was extremely handsome, and was considered a model as wife and mother. +Catalani was very fond of money, and would never sing unless paid beforehand. +She was invited, with her husband, to pass some time at Stowe, where +a numerous but select party had been invited; and Madame Catalani, being +asked to sing soon after dinner, willingly complied. When the day of +her departure came, her husband placed in the hands of the Marquis of +Buckingham the following little billet: - "For seventeen songs, seventeen +hundred pounds." This large sum was paid at once, without hesitation; +proving that Lord Buckingham was a refined gentleman, in every sense +of the word. + +Catalani's husband, M. de Valabreque, once fought a duel with a German +baron who had insulted the prima donna; the weapons used were sabres, +and Valabreque cut half of the Baron's nose clean off. Madame Catalani +lived for many years, highly respected, at a handsome villa near Florence. +Her two sons are now distinguished members of the Imperial court in +Paris; the eldest being Prefet du Palais, and the youngest colonel of +a regiment of hussars. + +When George the Fourth was Regent, Her Majesty's Theatre, as the Italian +Opera in the Haymarket is still called, was conducted on a very different +system from that which now prevails. Some years previous to the period +to which I refer, no one could obtain a box or a ticket for the pit +without a voucher from one of the lady patronesses; who, in 1805, were +the Duchesses of Marlborough, Devonshire, and Bedford, Lady Carlisle, +and some others. In their day, after, the singing and the ballet were +over, the company used to retire into the concert-room, where a ball +took place, accompanied by refreshments and a supper. There all the +rank and fashion of England were assembled on a sort of neutral ground. +At a later period, the management of the Opera House fell into the hands +of Mr. Waters, when it became less difficult to obtain admittance; but +the strictest etiquette was still kept up as regarded the dress of the +gentlemen, who were only admitted with knee-buckles, ruffles, and chapeau +bras. If there happened to be a drawing-room, the ladies would appear +in their court-dresses, as well as the gentlemen, and on all occasions +the audience of Her Majesty's Theatre was stamped with aristocratic +elegance. In the boxes of the first tier might have been seen the daughters +of the Duchess of Argyle, four of England's beauties; in the next box +were the equally lovely Marchioness of Stafford and her daughter, Lady +Elizabeth Gore, now the Duchess of Norfolk: not less remarkable was +Lady Harrowby and her daughters Lady Susan and Lady Mary Ryder. The +peculiar type of female beauty which these ladies so attractively exemplified, +is such as can be met with only in the British Isles: the full, round, +soul-inspired eye of Italy, and the dark hair of the sunny south, often +combined with that exquisitely pearly complexion which seems to be concomitant +with humidity and fog. You could scarcely gaze upon the peculiar beauty +to which I refer without being as much charmed with its kindly expression +as with its physical loveliness. + + +DINING AND COOKERY IN ENGLAND FIFTY YEARS AGO + + +England can boast of a Spenser, Shakspeare, Milton, and many other illustrious +poets, clearly indicating that the national character of Britons is +not deficient in imagination; but we have not had one single masculine +inventive genius of the kitchen. It is the probable result of our national +antipathy to mysterious culinary compounds, that none of the bright +minds of England have ventured into the region of scientific cookery. +Even in the best houses, when I was a young man, the dinners were wonderfully +solid, hot and stimulating. The menu of a grand dinner was thus composed: +- Mulligatawny and turtle soups were the first dishes placed before +you; a little lower, the eye met with the familiar salmon at one end +of the table, and the turbot, surrounded by smelts, at the other. The +first course was sure to be followed by a saddle of mutton or a piece +of roast beef; and then you could take your oath that fowls, tongue, +and ham, would as assuredly succeed as darkness after day. + +Whilst these never ending pieces de resistance were occupying the table, +what were called French dishes were, for custom's sake, added to the +solid abundance. The French, or side dishes, consisted of very mild +but very abortive attempts at Continental cooking, and I have always +observed that they met with the neglect and contempt that they merited. +The universally adored and ever popular boiled potato, produced at the +very earliest period of the dinner, was eaten with everything, up to +the moment when sweets appeared. Our vegetables, the best in the world, +were never honoured by an accompanying sauce, and generally came to +the table cold. A prime difficulty to overcome was the placing on your +fork, and finally in your mouth, some half-dozen different eatables +which occupied your plate at the same time. For example, your plate +would contain, say, a slice of turkey, a piece of stuffing, a sausage, +pickles, a slice of tongue, cauliflower, and potatoes. According to +habit and custom, a judicious and careful selection from this little +bazaar of good things was to be made, with an endeavour to place a portion +of each in your mouth at the same moment. In fact, it appeared to me +that we used to do all our compound cookery between our jaws. The dessert +- generally ordered at Messrs. Grange's, or at Owen's, in Bond Street +- if for a dozen people, would cost at least as many pounds. The wines +were chiefly port, sherry, and hock; claret, and even Burgundy, being +then designated "poor, thin, washy stuff." A perpetual thirst seemed +to come over people, both men and women, as soon as they had tasted +their soup; as from that moment everybody was taking wine with everybody +else till the close of the dinner; and such wine as produced that class +of cordiality which frequently wanders into stupefaction. How all this +sort of eating and drinking ended was obvious, from the prevalence of +gout, and the necessity of everyone making the pill-box their constant +bedroom companion. + + +THE PRINCE REGENT + + +When the eldest son of George the Third assumed the Regency, England +was in a state of political transition. The convulsions of the Continent +were felt amongst us; the very foundations of European society were +shaking, and the social relations of men were rapidly changing. The +Regent's natural leanings were towards the Tories; therefore as soon +as he undertook the responsibility of power, he abruptly abandoned the +Whigs and retained in office the admirers and partisans of his father's +policy. This resolution caused him to have innumerable and inveterate +enemies, who never lost an opportunity of attacking his public acts +and interfering with his domestic relations. + +The Regent was singularly imbued with petty royal pride. He would rather +be amiable and familiar with his tailor than agreeable and friendly +with the most illustrious of the aristocracy of Great Britain; he would +rather joke with a Brummell than admit to his confidence a Norfolk or +a Somerset. The Regent was always particularly well-bred in public, +and showed, if he chose, decidedly good manners; but he was in the habit +very often of addressing himself in preference to those whom he felt +he could patronise. His Royal Highness was as much the victim of circumstances +and the child of thoughtless imprudence as the most humble subject of +the crown. His unfortunate marriage with a Princess of Brunswick originated +in his debts; as he married that unhappy lady for one million sterling, +William Pitt being the contractor! The Princess of Wales married nothing +but an association with the Crown of England. If the Prince ever seriously +loved any woman, it was Mrs. Fitzherbert, with whom he had appeared +at the altar. + +Public opinion in England, under the inspiration of the Whigs, raised +a cry of indignation against the Prince. It was imagined, I presume, +that royal personage should be born without heart or feeling; that he +should have been able to live only for the good of the State and for +the convenience of his creditors. The Princess of Wales was one of +the most unattractive and almost repulsive women for an elegant-minded +man that could well have been found amongst German royalty. It is not +my intention to recall the events of the Regency. It is well known that +the Prince became eventually so unpopular as to exclude himself as much +as possible from public gaze. His intimate companions, after the trial +of Queen Caroline, were Lords Cunningham and Fife, Sir Benjamin Bloomfield, +Sir William Macmahon, Admiral Nagle, Sir A. Barnard, Lords Glenlyon, +Hertford, and Lowther. These gentlemen generally dined with him; the +dinner being the artistic product of that famous gastronomic savant, +Wattiers. The Prince was very fond of listening after dinner to the +gossip of society. When he became George the Fourth, no change took +place in these personnels at the banquet, excepting that with the fruits +and flowers of the table was introduced the beautiful Marchioness of +Conyngham, whose brilliant wit, according to the estimation of his Majesty, +surpassed that of any other of his friends, male or female. + + +PRINCESS CHARLOTTE OF WALES AT A FETE IN THE YEAR 1813, AT CARLTON HOUSE + + +Carlton House, at the period to which I refer, was a centre for all +the great politicians and wits who were the favorites of the Regent. +The principal entrance of this palace in Pall Mall, with its screen +of columns, will be remembered by many. In the rear of the mansion was +an extensive garden that reached from Warwick Street to Marlborough +House; green sward, stately trees, (probably two hundred years old), +and beds of the choicest flowers, gave to the grounds a picturesque +attraction perhaps unequalled. It was here that the heir to the throne +of England gave, in 1813, an open-air fete, in honour of the battle +of Vittoria. About three o'clock P.M. the elite of London society, +who had been honoured with an invitation, began to arrive - all in full +dress; the ladies particularly displaying their diamonds and pearls, +as if they were going to a drawing-room. The men were, of course, in +full dress, wearing knee-buckles. The regal circle was composed of +the Queen, the Regent, the Princess Sophia and Mary, the Princess Charlotte, +the Dukes of York, Clarence, Cumberland, and Cambridge. + +This was the first day that her Royal Highness the Princess Charlotte +appeared in public. She was a young lady of more than ordinary personal +attractions; her features were regular, and her complexion fair, with +the rich bloom of youthful beauty; her eyes were blue and very expressive, +and her hair was abundant, and of that peculiar light brown which merges +into the golden: in fact, such hair as the Middle-Age Italian painters +associate with their conceptions of the Madonna. In figure her Royal +Highness was somewhat over the ordinary height of women, but finely +proportioned and well developed. Her manners were remarkable for a +simplicity and good-nature which would have won admiration and invited +affection in the most humble walks of life. She created universal admiration, +and I may say a feeling of national pride, amongst all who attended +the ball. The Prince Regent entered the gardens giving his arm to the +Queen, the rest of the royal family following. Tents had been erected +in various parts of the grounds, where the bands of the Guards were +stationed. The weather was magnificent, a circumstance which contributed +to show off the admirable arrangements of Sir Benjamin Bloomfield, to +whom had been deputed the organization of the fete, which commenced +by dancing on the lawn. + +The Princess Charlotte honoured with her presence two dances. In the +first she accepted the hand of the late Duke of Devonshire, and in the +second that of the Earl of Aboyne, who had danced with Marie Antoinette, +and who, as Lord Huntley, lived long enough to dance with Queen Victoria. +The Princess entered so much into the spirit of the fete as to ask for +the then fashionable Scotch dances. The Prince was dressed in the Windsor +uniform, and wore the garter and star. He made himself very amiable, +and conversed much with the Ladies Hertford, Cholmondeley, and Montford. +Altogether, the fete was a memorable event. + +A year afterwards, the Duke of York said to his royal niece, "Tell me, +my dear, have you seen anyone among the foreign princes whom you would +like to have for a husband?" The Princess naively replied, "No one +so much prepossesses me as Prince Leopold of Coburg. I have heard much +of his bravery in the field, and I must say he is personally agreeable +to me. I have particularly heard of his famous cavalry charge at the +battle of Leipsic, where he took several thousand prisoners, for which +he was rewarded with the Order of Maria Therese." In a few months afterwards +she became the wife of the man whom she so much admired, and from whom +she was torn away not long after by the cruel hand of death. It will +be remembered that she died in childbirth, and her offspring expired +at the same time. The accoucheur who attended her was so much affected +by the calamity, that he committed suicide some short time afterwards. + + +BEAU BRUMMELL + + +Amongst the curious freaks of fortune there is none more remarkable +in my memory than the sudden appearance, in the highest and best society +in London, of a young man whose antecedents warranted a much less conspicuous +career: I refer to the famous Beau Brummell. We have innumerable instances +of soldiers, lawyers, and men of letters, elevating themselves from +the most humble stations, and becoming the companions of princes and +lawgivers; but there are comparatively few examples of men obtaining +a similarly elevated position simply from their attractive personal +appearance and fascinating manners. Brummell's father, who was a steward +to one or two large estates, sent his son George to Eton. He was endowed +with a handsome person, and distinguished himself at Eton as the best +scholar, the best boatman, and the best cricketer; and, more than all, +he was supposed to possess the comprehensive excellences that are represented +by the familiar term of "good fellow." He made many friends amongst +the scions of good families, by whom he was considered a sort of Crichton; +and his reputation reached a circle over which reigned the celebrated +Duchess of Devonshire. At a grand ball given by her Grace, George Brummell, +then quite a youth, appeared for the first time in such elevated society. +He immediately became a great favourite with the ladies, and was asked +by all the dowagers to as many balls and soirees as he could attend. + +At last the Prince of Wales sent for Brummell, and was so much pleased +with his manner and appearance, that he gave him a commission in his +own regiment, the 10th Hussars. Unluckily, Brummell, soon after joining +his regiment, was thrown from his horse at a grand review at Brighton, +when he broke his classical Roman nose. This misfortune, however, did +not affect the fame of the beau; and although his nasal organ had undergone +a slight transformation, it was forgiven by his admirers, since the +rest of his person remained intact. When we are prepossessed by the +attractions of a favourite, it is not a trifle that will dispel the +illusion; and Brummell continued to govern society, in conjunction with +the Prince of Wales. He was remarkable for his dress, which was generally +conceived by himself; the execution of his sublime imagination being +carried out by that superior genius, Mr. Weston, tailor, of Old Bond +Street. The Regent sympathised deeply with Brummell's labours to arrive +at the most attractive and gentlemanly mode of dressing the male form, +at a period when fashion had placed at the disposal of the tailor the +most hideous material that could possibly tax his art. The coat may +have a long tail or a short tail, a high collar or a low collar, but +it will always be an ugly garment. The modern hat may be spread out +at the top, or narrowed, whilst the brim may be turned up or turned +down, made a little wider or a little more narrow, still it is inconceivably +hideous. Pantaloons and Hessian boots were the least objectionable +features of the costume which the imagination of a Brummell and the +genius of a Royal Prince were called upon to modify or change. The hours +of meditative agony which each dedicated to the odious fashions of the +day have left no monument save the coloured caricatures in which these +illustrious persons have appeared. + +Brummell, at this time, besides being the companion and friend of the +Prince, was very intimate with the Dukes of Rutland, Dorset, and Argyll, +Lords Sefton, Alvanley, and Plymouth. In the zenith of his popularity +he might be seen at the bay window of White's Club, surrounded by the +lions of the day, laying down the law, and occasionally indulging in +those witty remarks for which he was famous. His house in Chapel Street +corresponded with his personal "get up"; the furniture was in excellent +taste, and the library contained the best works of the best authors +of every period and of every country. His canes, his snuff-boxes, his +Sevres china, were exquisite; his horses and carriage were conspicuous +for their excellence; and, in fact, the superior taste of a Brummell +was discoverable in everything that belonged to him. + +But the reign of the king of fashion, like all other reigns, was not +destined to continue for ever. Brummell warmly espoused the cause of +Mrs. Fitzherbert, and this of course offended the Prince of Wales. +I refer to the period when his Royal Highness had abandoned that beautiful +woman for another favourite. A coldness sprang up between the Prince +and his protege, and finally, the mirror of fashion was excluded from +the royal presence. A curious accident brought Brummell again to the +dinner-table of his royal patron; he was asked one night at White's +to take a hand at whist, when he won from George Harley Drummond 20,000£. +This circumstance having been related by the Duke of York to the Prince +of Wales, the beau was again invited to Carlton House. At the commencement +of the dinner, matters went off smoothly; but Brummell, in his joy at +finding himself with his old friend, became excited, and drank too much +wine. His Royal Highness - who wanted to pay off Brummell for an insult +he had received at Lady Cholmondeley's ball, when the beau, turning +towards the Prince, said to Lady Worcester, "Who is your fat friend?" +- had invited him to dinner merely out of a desire for revenge. The +Prince therefore pretended to be affronted with Brummell's hilarity, +and said to his brother, the Duke of York, who was present, "I think +we had better order Mr. Brummell's carriage before he gets drunk." +Whereupon he rang the bell, and Brummell left the royal presence. This +circumstance originated the story about the beau having told the Prince +to ring the bell. I received these details from the late General Sir +Arthur Upton, who was present at the dinner. The latter days of Brummell +were clouded with mortifications and penury. He retired to Calais, +where he kept up a ludicrous imitation of his past habits. At least +he got himself named consul at Caen; but he afterwards lost the appointment, +and eventually died insane, and in abject poverty, either at Boulogne +or Calais. + + +ROMEO COATES + + +This singular man, more than forty years ago, occupied a large portion +of public attention; his eccentricities were the theme of general wonder, +and great was the curiosity to catch a glance at as strange a being +as any that ever appeared in English society. This extraordinary individual +was a native of one of the West India Islands, and was represented as +a man of extraordinary wealth; to which, however, he had no claim. + +About the year 1808 there arrived at the York Hotel, at Bath, a person +about the age of fifty, somewhat gentlemanlike, but so different from +the usual men of the day that considerable attention was directed to +him. He was of a good figure; but his face was sallow, seamed with +wrinkles, and more expressive of cunning than of any other quality. +His dress was remarkable: in the day-time he was covered at all seasons +with enormous quantities of fur; but the evening costume in which he +went to the balls made a great impression, from its gaudy appearance; +for his buttons as well as his knee-buckles were of diamonds. There +was of course great curiosity to know who this stranger was; and this +curiosity was heightened by an announcement that he proposed to appear +at the theatre in the character of Romeo. There was something so unlike +the impassioned lover in his appearance - so much that indicated a man +with few intellectual gifts - that everybody was prepared for a failure. +No one, however, anticipated the reality. + +On the night fixed for his appearance the house was crowded to suffocation. +The playbills had given out that "an amateur of fashion" would for that +night only perform in the character of Romeo; besides, it was generally +whispered that the rehearsals gave indication of comedy rather than +tragedy, and that his readings were of a perfectly novel character. + +The very first appearance of Romeo convulsed the house with laughter. +Benvolio prepares the audience for the stealthy visit of the lover to +the object of his admiration; and fully did the amateur give the expression +to one sense of the words uttered, for he was indeed the true representative +of a thief stealing onwards in the night, "with Tarquin's ravishing +strides," and disguising his face as if he were thoroughly ashamed of +it. The darkness of the scene did not, however, show his real character +so much as the masquerade, when he came forward with hideous grin, and +made what he considered his bow, - which consisted in thrusting his +head forward and bobbing it up and down several times, his body remaining +perfectly upright and stiff, like a toy mandarin with moveable head. + +His dress was outre in the extreme: whether Spanish, Italian, or English, +no one could say; it was like nothing ever worn. In a cloak of sky-blue +silk, profusely spangled, red pantaloons, a vest of white muslin, surmounted +by an enormously thick cravat, and a wig a la Charles the Second, capped +by an opera hat, he presented one of the most grotesque spectacles ever +witnessed upon the stage. The whole of his garments were evidently +too tight for him; and his movements appeared so incongruous, that every +time he raised his arm, or moved a limb, it was impossible to refrain +from laughter: but what chiefly convulsed the audience was the bursting +of a seam in an inexpressible part of his dress, and the sudden extrusion +through the red rent of a quantity of white linen sufficient to make +a Bourbon flag, which was visible whenever he turned round. This was +at first supposed to be a wilful offence against common decency, and +some disapprobation was evinced; but the utter unconsciousness of the +odd creature was soon apparent, and then urestrained mirth reigned throughout +the boxes, pit, and gallery. The total want of flexibility of limb, +the awkwardness of his gait, and the idiotic manner in which he stood +still, all produced a most ludicrous effect; but when his guttural voice +was heard, and his total misapprehension of every passage in the play, +especially the vulgarity of his address to Juliet, were perceived, everyone +was satisfied that Shakspeare's Romeo was burlesqued on that occasion. + +The balcony scene was interrupted by shrieks of laughter, for in the +midst of one of Juliet's impassioned exclamations, Romeo quietly took +out his snuff-box and applied a pinch to his nose; on this a wag in +the gallery bawled out, "I say, Romeo, give us a pinch," when the impassioned +lover, in the most affected manner, walked to the side boxes and offered +the contents of his box first to the gentlemen, and then, with great +gallantry, to the ladies. This new interpretation of Shakspeare was +hailed with loud bravos, which the actor acknowledged with his usual +grin and nod. Romeo then returned to the balcony, and was seen to extend +his arms; but all passed in dumb show, so incessant were the shouts +of laughter. All that went on upon the stage was for a time quite inaudible, +but previous to the soliloquy "I do remember an apothecary," there was +for a moment a dead silence; for in rushed the hero with a precipitate +step until he reached the stage lamps, when he commenced his speech +in the lowest possible whisper, as if he had something to communicate +to the pit that ought not to be generally known; and this tone was kept +up throughout the whole of the soliloquy, so that not a sound could be heard. + +The amateur actor showed many indications of aberration of mind, and +seemed rather the object of pity than of amusement; he, however, appeared +delighted with himself, and also with his audience, for at the conclusion +he walked first to the left of the stage and bobbed his head in his +usual grotesque manner at the side boxes; then to the right, performing +the same feat; after which, going to the centre of the stage with the +usual bob, and placing his hand upon his left breast, he exclaimed, +"Haven't I done it well ?" To this inquiry the house, convulsed as +it was with shouts of laughter, responded in such a way as delighted +the heart of Kean on one great occasion, when he said, "The pit rose +at me." The whole audience started up as if with one accord, giving +a yell of derision, whilst pocket-handkerchiefs waved from all parts +of the theatre. + +The dying scene was irresistibly comic, and I question if Liston, Munden, +or Joey Knight, was ever greeted with such merriment; for Romeo dragged +the unfortunate Juliet from the tomb, much in the same manner as a washerwoman +thrusts into her cart the bag of foul linen. But how shall I describe +his death? Out came a dirty silk handkerchief from his pocket, with +which he carefully swept the ground; then his opera hat was carefully +placed for a pillow, and down he laid himself. After various tossings +about he seemed reconciled to the position; but the house vociferously +bawled out, "Die again, Romeo!" and, obedient to the command, he rose +up, and went through the ceremony again. Scarcely had he lain quietly +down, when the call was again heard, and the well-pleased amateur was +evidently prepared to enact a third death; but Juliet now rose up from +her tomb, and gracefully put an end to this ludicrous scene by advancing +to the front of the stage and aptly applying a quotation from Shakspeare: - + +"Dying is such sweet sorrow, +That he will die again until to-morrow." + +Thus ended an extravaganza such as has seldom been witnessed; for although +Coates repeated the play at the Haymarket, amidst shouts of laughter +from the playgoers, there never was so ludicrous a performance as that +which took place at Bath on the first night of his appearance. Eventually +he was driven from the stage with much contumely, in consequence of +its having been discovered that, under pretence of acting for a charitable +purpose, he had obtained a sum of money for his performances. His love +of notoriety led him to have a most singular shell-shaped carriage built, +in which, drawn by two fine white horses, he was wont to parade in the +park; the harness, and every available part of the vehicle (which was +really handsome) were blazoned over with his heraldic device - a cock +crowing, and his appearance was heralded by the gamins of London shrieking +out "cock-a-doodle-doo." Coates eventually quitted London and settled +at Boulogne, where a fair lady was induced to become the partner of +his existence, notwithstanding the ridicule of the whole world. + + +HYDE PARK AFTER THE PENINSULAR WAR + + +That extensive district of park land, the entrances of which are in +Piccadilly and Oxford Street, was far more rural in appearance in 1815 +than at the present day. Under the trees cows and deer were grazing; +the paths were fewer and none told of that perpetual tread of human +feet which now destroys all idea of country charms and illusions. As +you gazed from an eminence, no rows of monotonous houses reminded you +of the vicinity of a large city, and the atmosphere of Hyde Park was +then much more like what God has made it than the hazy, gray, coal-darkened +half-twilight of the London of to-day. The company which then congregated +daily about five, was composed of dandies and women in the best society; +the men mounted on such horses as England alone could then produce. +The dandy's dress consisted of a blue coat with brass buttons, leather +breeches, and top boots; and it was the fashion to wear a deep, stiff +white cravat, which prevented you from seeing your boots while standing. +All the world watched Brummell to imitate him, and order their clothes +of the tradesman who dressed that sublime dandy. One day a youthful +beau approached Brummell and said, "Permit me to ask you where you get +your blacking?" "Ah!" replied Brummell, gazing complacently at his +boots, "my blacking positively ruins me. I will tell you in confidence; +it is made with the finest champagne!" + +Many of the ladies used to drive into the park in a carriage called +a vis-a-vis, which held only two persons. The hammer-cloth, rich in +heraldic designs, the powdered footmen in smart liveries, and a coachman +who assumed all the gaiety and appearance of a wigged archbishop, were +indispensable. The equipages were generally much more gorgeous than +at a later period, when democracy invaded the parks, and introduced +what may be termed a "brummagem society," with shabby-genteel carriages +and servants. The carriage company consisted of the most celebrated +beauties, amongst whom were remarked the Duchesses of Rutland, Argyle, +Gordon, and Bedford, Ladies Cowper, Foley, Heathcote, Louisa Lambton, +Hertford, and Mountjoy. The most conspicuous horsemen were the Prince +Regent (accompanied by Sir Benjamin Bloomfield); the Duke of York and +his old friend, Warwick Lake; the Duke of Dorset, on his white horse; +the Marquis of Anglesea, with his lovely daughters; Lord Harrowby and +the Ladies Ryder; the Earl of Sefton and the Ladies Molyneux; and the +eccentric Earl of Moreton on his long-tailed grey. In those days "pretty +horsebreakers" would not have dared to show themselves in Hyde Park; +nor did you see any of the lower or middle classes of London intruding +themselves in regions which, with a sort of tacit understanding, were +then given up exclusively to persons of rank and fashion. + + +LONDON HOTELS IN 1814 + + +There was a class of men, of very high rank, such as Lords Wellington, +Nelson, and Collingwood, Sir John Moore and some few others who never +frequented the clubs. The persons to whom I refer, and amongst whom +were many members of the sporting world, used to congregate at a few +hotels. The Clarendon, Limmer's, Ibbetson's, Fladong's, Stephens', +and Grillon's, were the fashionable hotels. The Clarendon was then kept +by a French cook, Jacquiers, who contrived to amass a large sum of money +in the service of Louis the Eighteenth in England, and subsequently +with Lord Darnley. This was the only public hotel where you could get +a genuine French dinner, and for which you seldom paid less than three +or four pounds; your bottle of champagne or of claret, in the year 1814, +costing you a guinea. + +Limmer's was an evening resort for the sporting world; in fact, it was +a midnight Tattersal's, where you heard nothing but the language of +the turf, and where men with not very clean hands used to make up their +books. Limmer's was the most dirty hotel in London; but in the gloomy, +comfortless coffee-room might be seen many members of the rich squirearchy, +who visited London during the sporting season. This hotel was frequently +so crowded that a bed could not be obtained for any amount of money; +but you could always get a very good plain English dinner, an excellent +bottle of port, and some famous gin-punch. Ibbetson's hotel was chiefly +patronized by the clergy and young men from the universities. The charges +there were more economical than at similar establishments. Fladong's, +in Oxford Street, was chiefly frequented by naval men; for in those +days there was no club for sailors. Stephens', in Bond Street, was +a fashionable hotel, supported by officers of the army and men about +town. If a stranger asked to dine there, he was stared at by the servants, +and very solemnly assured that there was no table vacant. It was not +an uncommon thing to see thirty or forty saddle-horses and tilburys +waiting outside this hotel. I recollect two of my old Welsh friends, +who used each of them to dispose of five bottles of wine daily, residing +here in 1815, when the familiar joints, boiled fish and fried soles, +were the only eatables you could order. + + +THE CLUBS OF LONDON IN 1814 + + +The members of the clubs in London, many years since, were persons, +almost without exception, belonging exclusively to the aristocratic +world. "My tradesmen," as King Allen used to call the bankers and the +merchants, had not then invaded White's, Boodle's, Brookes', or Wattiers', +in Bolton Street, Piccadilly; which, with the Guards, Arthur's, and +Graham's, were the only clubs at the West End of the town. White's +was decidedly the most difficult of entry; its list of members comprised +nearly all the noble names of Great Britain. + +The politics of White's club were then decidedly Tory. It was here +that play was carried on to an extent which made many ravages in large +fortunes, the traces of which have not disappeared at the present day. +General Scott, the father-in-law of George Canning and the Duke of Portland, +was known to have won at White's 200,000£.; thanks to his notorious +sobriety and knowledge of the game of whist. The General possessed +a great advantage over his companions by avoiding those indulgences +at the table which used to muddle other men's brains. He confined himself +to dining off something like a boiled chicken, with toast-and-water; +by such a regimen he came to the whist-table with a clear head, and +possessing as he did a remarkable memory, with great coolness and judgment, +he was able honestly to win the enormous sum of 200,000£. At Brookes', +for nearly half a century, the play was of a more gambling character +than at White's. Faro and macao were indulged in to an extent which +enabled a man to win or to lose a considerable fortune in one night. +It was here that Charles James Fox, Selwyn, Lord Carlisle, Lord Robert +Spencer, General Fitzpatrick, and other great Whigs, won and lost hundreds +of thousands; frequently remaining at the table for many hours without rising. + +On one occasion, Lord Robert Spencer contrived to lose the last shilling +of his considerable fortune, given him by his brother, the Duke of Marlborough; +General Fitzpatrick being much in the same condition, they agreed to +raise a sum of money, in order that they might keep a faro bank. The +members of the club made no objection, and ere long they carried out +their design. As is generally the case, the bank was a winner, and +Lord Robert bagged, as his share of the proceeds, 100,000£. He retired, +strange to say, from the foetid atmosphere of play, with the money in +his pocket, and never again gambled. George Harley Drummond, of the +famous banking-house, Charing Cross, only played once in his whole life +at White's Club at whist, on which occasion he lost 20,000£. to Brummell. +This event caused him to retire from the banking-house of which he was +a partner. + +Lord Carlisle was one of the most remarkable victims amongst the players +at Brookes', and Charles Fox, his friend, was not more fortunate, being +subsequently always in pecuniary difficulties. Many a time, after a +long night of hard play, the loser found himself at the Israelitish +establishment of Howard and Gibbs, then the fashionable and patronized +money-lenders. These gentlemen never failed to make hard terms with +the borrower, although ample security was invariably demanded. + +The Guards' Club was established for the three regiments of Foot Guards, +and was conducted upon a military system. Billiards and low whist were +the only games indulged in. The dinner was, perhaps, better than at +most clubs, and considerably cheaper. I had the honour of being a member +for several years, during which time I have nothing to remember but +the most agreeable incidents. Arthur's and Graham's were less aristocratic +than those I have mentioned; it was at the latter, thirty years ago, +that a most painful circumstance took place. A nobleman of the highest +position and influence in society was detected in cheating at cards, +and after a trial, which did not terminate in his favour, he died of +a broken heart. + +Upon one occasion, some gentlemen of both White's and Brookes' had the +honour to dine with the Prince Regent, and during the conversation, +the Prince inquired what sort of dinners they got at their clubs; upon +which, Sir Thomas Stepney, one of the guests, observed that their dinners +were always the same, "the eternal joints, or beefsteaks, the boiled +fowl with oyster sauce, and an apple tart - this is what we have, sir, +at our clubs, and very monotonous fare it is." The Prince, without +further remark, rang the bell for his cook, Wattier, and, in the presence +of those who dined at the Royal table, asked him whether he would take +a house and organize a dinner club. Wattier assented, and named Madison, +the Prince's page, manager, and Labourie, the cook, from the Royal kitchen. +The club flourished only a few years, owing to the high play that was +carried on there. The Duke of York patronized it, and was a member. +I was a member in 1816, and frequently saw his Royal Highness there. +The dinners were exquisite; the best Parisian cooks could not beat Labourie. +The favourite game played there was macao. Upon one occasion, Jack +Bouvrie, brother of Lady Heytesbury, was losing large sums, and became +very irritable; Raikes, with bad taste, laughed at Bouverie, and attempted +to amuse us with some of his stale jokes; upon which, Bouverie threw +his play-bowl, with the few counters it contained, at Raikes's head; +unfortunately it struck him, and made the City dandy angry, but no serious +results followed this open insult. + + +REMARKABLE CHARACTERS OF LONDON ABOUT THE YEARS 1814, 1815, 1816 + + +It appears to be a law of natural history that every generation produces +and throws out from the mob of society a few conspicuous men, that pass +under the general appellation of "men about town." Michael Angelo Taylor +was one of those remarkable individuals whom everyone was glad to know; +and those who had not that privilege were ever talking about him, although +he was considered by many a bit of a bore. Michael Angelo was a Member +of Parliament for many years, and generally sat in one of the most important +committees of the House of Commons; for he was a man of authority and +an attractive speaker. In appearance he was one of that sort of persons +whom you could not pass in the streets without exclaiming, "Who can +that be?" His face blushed with port wine, the purple tints of which, +by contrast, caused his white hair to glitter with silvery brightness; +he wore leather breeches, top boots, blue coat, white waistcoat, and +an unstarched and exquisitely white neckcloth, the whole surmounted +by a very broad-brimmed beaver; - such was the dress of the universally +known Michael Angelo Taylor. If you met him in society, or at the clubs, +he was never known to salute you but with the invariable phrase, "What +news have you?" Upon one occasion, riding through St. James's Park, +he met the great Minister, Mr. Pitt, coming from Wimbledon, where he +resided. He asked Mr. Pitt the usual question, upon which the Premier +replied, "I have not yet seen the morning papers." + +"Oh, that won't do, Mr. Pitt. I am Sure that you know something, and +will not tell me." Mr. Pitt good-humouredly replied: "Well, then, I +am going to a Cabinet Council, and I will consult my colleagues whether +I can divulge State secrets to you or not." Upon another occasion, on +entering Boodle's, of which he was a member, he observed the celebrated +Lord Westmoreland at table, where the noble lord was doing justice to +a roast fowl. Taylor, of course, asked him the news of the day, and +Lord Westmoreland coolly told the little newsmonger to go into the other +room and leave him to finish his dinner, promising to join him after +he had done. The noble Lord kept his word, and the first thing he heard +from Mr. Taylor was, "Well, my lord, what news? what had you for dinner?" + +His lordship replied, "A Welsh leg of mutton." "What then - what then?" +"Don't you think a leg of mutton enough for any man?" "Yes, my lord, +but you did not eat it all." "Yes, Taylor, I did." "Well, I think you +have placed the leg of mutton in some mysterious place, for I see no +trace of it in your lean person." + +Lord Westmoreland was remarkable for an appetite which made nothing +of a respectable joint, or a couple of fowls. +I know not whether Mr. Poole, the author of Paul Pry, had Michael Angelo +in his head when he wrote that well-known comedy; but certainly he might +have sat for a character whose intrusive and inquisitive habits were +so notorious, that people on seeing him approach always prepared for +a string of almost impertinent interrogations. + +Another remarkable man about town was Colonel Cooke, commonly called +Kangaroo Cooke, who was for many years the private aide-de-camp and +secretary of H. R. H. the Duke of York. He was the brother of General +Sir George Cooke and of the beautiful Countess of Cardigan, mother of +the gallant Lord Cardigan, and the Ladies Howe, Baring, and Lucan. +During his career he had been employed in diplomatic negotiations with +the French, previous to the peace of Paris. He was in the best society, +and always attracted attention by his dandified mode of dress. + +Colonel Armstrong, another pet of the Duke of York, was known, when +in the Coldstream Guards, to be a thorough hard-working soldier, and +his non-commissioned officers were so perfect, that nearly all the adjutants +of the different regiments of the line were educated by him. He was +a strict disciplinarian, but strongly opposed to corporal punishment, +and used to boast that during the whole time that he commanded the regiment +only two men had been flogged. + +Colonel Mackinnon, commonly called "Dan," was an exceedingly well-made +man, and remarkable for his physical powers in running, jumping, climbing, +and such bodily exercises as demanded agility and muscular strength. +He used to amuse his friends by creeping over the furniture of a room +like a monkey. It was very common for his companions to make bets with +him: for example, that he would not be able to climb up the ceiling +of a room, or scramble over a certain house-top. Grimaldi, the famous +clown, used to say, "Colonel Mackinnon has only to put on the motley +costume, and he would totally eclipse me." + +Mackinnon was famous for practical jokes; which were, however, always +played in a gentlemanly way. Before landing at St. Andero's, with some +other officers who had been on leave in England, he agreed to personate +the Duke of York, and make the Spaniards believe that his Royal Highness +was amongst them. On nearing the shore, a royal standard was hoisted +at the masthead, and Mackinnon disembarked, wearing the star of his +shako on his left breast, and accompanied by his friends, who agreed +to play the part of aides-de-camp to royalty. The Spanish authorities +were soon informed of the arrival of the Royal Commander-in-Chief of +the British army; so they received Mackinnon with the usual pomp and +circumstance attending such occasions. The mayor of the place, in honour +of the illustrious arrival, gave a grand banquet, which terminated with +the appearance of a huge bowl of punch. Whereupon Dan, thinking that +the joke had gone far enough, suddenly dived his head into the porcelain +vase, and threw his heels into the air . The surprise and indignation +of the solemn Spaniards was such, that they made a most intemperate +report of the hoax that had been played on them to Lord Wellington; +Dan, how- ever, was ultimately forgiven, after a severe reprimand. + +Another of his freaks very nearly brought him to a court- martial. +Lord Wellington was curious about visiting a convent near Lisbon, and +the lady abbess made no difficulty; Mackinnon, hearing this, contrived +to get clandestinely within the sacred walls, and it was generally supposed +that it was neither his first nor his second visit. At all events, when +Lord Wellington arrived, Dan Mackinnon was to be seen among the nuns, +dressed out in their sacred costume, with his head and whiskers shaved, +and as he possessed good features, he was declared to be one of the +best-looking amongst those chaste dames. It was supposed that this +adventure, which was known to Lord Byron, suggested a similar episode +in Don Juan, the scene being laid in the East. I might say more about +Dan's adventures in the convent, but have no wish to be scandalous. + +Another dandy of the day was Sir Lumley Skeffington, who used to paint +his face, so that he looked like a French toy; he dressed a la Robespierre, +and practised other follies, although the consummate old fop was a man +of literary attainments, and a great admirer and patron of the drama. +Skeffington was remarkable for his politeness and courtly manners; in +fact, he was invited everywhere, and was very popular with the ladies. +You always knew of his approach by an avant-courier of sweet smells; +and when he advanced a little nearer, you might suppose yourself in +the atmosphere of a perfumer's shop. He is thus immortalized by Byron, +in the English Bards and Scotch Reviewers, alluding to the play written +by Skeffington, The Sleeping Beauty:- + +"In grim array though Lewis' spectres rise, +Still Skeffington and Goose divide the prize: +And sure great Skeffington must claim our praise, +For skirtless coats and skeletons of plays +Renowned alike; whose genius ne'er confines +Her flight to garnish Greenwood's gay designs, +Nor sleeps with 'sleeping beauties' but anon +In five facetious acts comes thundering on, +While poor John Bull, bewildered with the scene, +Stares, wondering what the devil it can mean; +But as some hands applaud - a venal few - +Rather than sleep, John Bull applauds it too." + +Long Wellesley Pole was a fashionable who distinguished himself by giving +sumptuous dinners at Wanstead, where he owned one of the finest mansions +in England. He used to ask his friends to dine with him after the opera +at midnight; the drive from London being considered appetisant. Every +luxury that money could command was placed before his guests at this +unusual hour of the night. He married Miss Tylney Pole, an heiress +of fifty thousand a-year, yet died quite a beggar: in fact, he would +have starved, had it not been for the charity of his cousin, the present +Duke of Wellington, who allowed him three hundred a-year. + + +THE GUARDS MARCHING FROM ENGHIEN ON THE 15TH OF JUNE + + +Two battalions of my regiment had started from Brussels; the other (the +2nd), to which I belonged, remained in London, and I saw no prospect +of taking part in the great events which were about to take place on +the Continent. Early in June I had the honour of dining with Colonel +Darling, the deputy adjutant-general, and I was there introduced to +Sir Thomas Picton, as a countryman and neighbour of his brother, Mr. +Turbeville, of Evenney Abbey, in Glamorganshire. He was very gracious, +and, on his two aides-de-camp - Major Tyler and my friend Chambers, +of the Guards - lamenting that I was obliged to remain at home, Sir +Thomas said, "Is the lad really anxious to go out?" Chambers answered +that it was the height of my ambition. Sir Thomas inquired if all the +appointments to his staff were filled up; and then added, with a grim +smile, "If Tyler is killed, which is not at all unlikely, I do not know +why I should not take my young countryman: he may go over with me if +he can get leave." I was overjoyed at this, and, after thanking the General +a thousand times, made my bow and retired. + +I was much elated at the thoughts of being Picton's aide-de-camp, though +that somewhat remote contingency depended upon my friends Tyler, or +Chambers, or others, meeting with an untimely end; but at eighteen on +ne doute de rien. So I set about thinking how I should manage to get +my outfit, in order to appear at Brussels in a manner worthy of the +aide-de-camp of the great General. As my funds were at a low ebb, I +went to Cox and Greenwood's, those staunch friends of the hard-up soldier. +Sailors may talk of the "little cherub that sits up aloft," but commend +me for liberality, kindness, and generosity, to my old friends in Craig's +Court. I there obtained 200£., which I took with me to a gambling-house +in St. James' Square, where I managed, by some wonderful accident, to +win 600£.; and, having thus obtained the sinews of war, I made numerous +purchases, amongst others two first-rate horses at Tattersall's for +a high figure, which were embarked for Ostend, along with my groom. +I had not got leave; but I thought I should get back, after the great +battle that appeared imminent, in time to mount guard at St. James's. +On a Saturday I accompanied Chambers in his carriage to Ramsgate, where +Sir Thomas Picton and Tyler had already arrived; we remained there for +the Sunday, and embarked on Monday in a vessel which had been hired +for the General and suite. On the same day we arrived at Ostend, and +put up at an hotel in the square; where I was surprised to hear the +General, in excellent French, get up a flirtation with our very pretty +waiting-maid. + +Sir Thomas Picton was a stern-looking, strong-built man, about the middle +height, and considered very like the Hetman Platoff. He generally wore +a blue frock-coat, very tightly buttoned up to the throat; a very large +black silk neckcloth, showing little or no shirt-collar; dark trousers, +boots, and a round hat: it was in this very dress that he was attired +at Quatre Bras, as he had hurried off to the scene of action before +his uniform arrived. After sleeping at Ostend, the General and Tyler +went the next morning to Ghent, and on Thursday to Brussels. I proceeded +by boat to Ghent, and, without stopping, hired a carriage, and arrived +in time to order rooms for Sir Thomas at the Hotel d'Angleterre, Rue +de la Madeleine, at Brussels: our horses followed us. + +While we were at breakfast, Colonel Canning came to inform the General +that the Duke of Wellington wished to see him immediately. Sir Thomas +lost not a moment in obeying the order of his chief, leaving +the breakfast-table and proceeding to the park, where Wellington was +walking with Fitzroy Somerset and the Duke of Richmond. Picton's manner +was always more familiar than the Duke liked in his lieutenants, and +on this occasion he approached him in a careless sort of way, just as +he might have met an equal. The Duke bowed coldly to him, and said, +"I am glad you are come, Sir Thomas; the sooner you get on horseback +the better; no time is to be lost. You will take the command of the +troops in advance. The Prince of Orange knows by this time that you +will go to his assistance." Picton appeared not to like the Duke's +manner; for, when he bowed and left, he muttered a few words which convinced +those who were with him that he was not much pleased with his interview. + + +QUATRE BRAS + + +I got upon the best of my two horses, and followed Sir Thomas Picton +and his staff to Quatre Bras at full speed. His division was already +engaged in supporting the Prince of Orange, and had deployed itself +in two lines in front of the road to Sombref when he arrived. Sir Thomas +immediately took the command. Shortly afterwards, Kempt's and Pack's +brigades arrived by the Brussels road, and part of Alten's division +by the Nivelles road. + +Ney was very strong in cavalry, and our men were constantly formed into +squares to receive them. The famous Kellerman, the hero of Marengo, +tried a last charge, and was very nearly being taken or killed, as his +horse was shot under him when very near us. Wellington at last took +the offensive; - a charge was made against the French, which succeeded, +and we remained masters of the field. I acted as a mere spectator, +and got, on one occasion, just within twenty or thirty yards of some +of the cuirassiers; but my horse was too quick for them. + +On the 17th, Wellington retreated upon Waterloo, about eleven o'clock. +The infantry were masked by the cavalry in two lines, parallel to the +Namur road. Our cavalry retired on the approach of the French cavalry, +in three columns, on the Brussels road. A torrent of rain fell, upon +the Emperor's ordering the heavy cavalry to charge us; while the fire +of sixty or eighty pieces of cannon showed that we had chosen our position +at Waterloo. Chambers said to me, "Now, Gronow, the loss has been very +severe in the Guards, and I think you ought to go and see whether you +are wanted; for, as you have really nothing to do with Picton, you had +better join your regiment, or you may get into a scrape." Taking his +advice, I rode off to where the Guards were stationed; the officers +- amongst whom I remember Colonel Thomas and Brigade-Major Miller - +expressed their astonishment and amazement on seeing me, and exclaimed, +"What the deuce brought you here? Why are you not with your battalion +in London? Get off your horse, and explain how you came here!" + +Things were beginning to look a little awkward, when Gunthorpe, the +adjutant, a great friend of mine, took my part and said, "As he is here, +let us make the most of him; there's plenty of work for everyone. Come, +Gronow, you shall go with the Hon. Captain Clements and a detachment +to the village of Waterloo, to take charge of the French prisoners." +I said, "What the deuce shall I do with my horse ?" Upon which the +Hon. Captain Stopford, aide-de-camp to Sir John Byng, volunteered to +buy him. Having thus once more become a foot soldier, I started according +to orders, and arrived at Waterloo. + + +GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE FIELD OF WATERLOO + + +The day on which the battle of Waterloo was fought seemed to have been +chosen by some providential accident for which human wisdom is unable +to account. On the morning of the 18th the sun shone most gloriously, +and so clear was the atmosphere that we could see the long, imposing +lines of the enemy most distinctly. Immediately in front of the division +to which I belonged, and, I should imagine, about half a mile from us, +were posted cavalry and artillery; and to the right and left the French +had already engaged us, attacking Huguemont and La Haye Sainte. We +heard incessantly the measured boom of artillery, accompanied by the +incessant rattling echoes of musketry. + +The whole of the British infantry not actually engaged were at that +time formed into squares; and as you looked along our lines, it seemed +as if we formed a continuous wall of human beings. I recollect distinctly +being able to see Bonaparte and his staff; and some of my brother officers +using the glass, exclaimed, "There he is on his white horse." I should +not forget to state that when the enemy's artillery began to play on +us, we had orders to lie down, when we could hear the shot and shell +whistling around us, killing and wounding great numbers; then again +we were ordered on our knees to receive cavalry. The French artillery +- which consisted of three hundred guns, though we did not muster more +than half that number - committed terrible havoc during the early part +of the battle, whilst we were acting on the defensive. + + +THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON IN OUR SQUARE + + +About four P.M. the enemy's artillery in front of us ceased firing +all of a sudden, and we saw large masses of cavalry advance: not a man +present who survived could have forgotten in after life the awful grandeur +of that charge. You discovered at a distance what appeared to be an +overwhelming, long moving line, which, ever advancing, glittered like +a stormy wave of the sea when it catches the sunlight. On they came +until they got near enough, whilst the very earth seemed to vibrate +beneath the thundering tramp of the mounted host. One might suppose +that nothing could have resisted the shock of this terrible moving mass. +They were the famous cuirassiers, almost all old soldiers, +who had distinguished themselves on most of the battlefields of Europe. +In an almost incredibly short period they were within twenty yards of +us, shouting "Vive l'Empereur!" The word of command, "Prepare to receive +cavalry," had been given, every man in the front ranks knelt, and a +wall bristling with steel, held together by steady hands, presented +itself to the infuriated cuirassiers. + +I should observe that just before this charge the duke entered by one +of the angles of the square, accompanied only by one aide-de-camp; all +the rest of his staff being either killed or wounded. Our commander-in-chief, +as far as I could judge, appeared perfectly composed; but looked very +thoughtful and pale. He was dressed in a grey great-coat with a cape, +white cravat, leather pantaloons, Hessian boots, and a large cocked +hat a la Russe. + +The charge of the French cavalry was gallantly executed; but our well-directed +fire brought men and horses down, and ere long the utmost confusion +arose in their ranks. The officers were exceedingly brave, and by their +gestures and fearless bearing did all in their power to encourage their +men to form again and renew the attack. The duke sat unmoved, mounted +on his favourite charger. I recollect his asking the Hon. Lieut.-Colonel +Stanhope what o'clock it was, upon which Stanhope took out his watch, +and said it was twenty minutes past four. The Duke replied, "The battle +is mine; and if the Prussians arrive soon, there will be an end of the war." + + +THE FRENCH CAVALRY CHARGING THE BRUNSWICKERS + + +Soon after the cuirassiers had retired, we observed to our right the +red hussars of the Garde Imperiale charging a square of Brunswick riflemen, +who were about fifty yards from us. This charge was brilliantly executed, +but the well-sustained fire from the square baffled the enemy, who were +obliged to retire after suffering a severe loss in killed and wounded. +The ground was completely covered with those brave men, who lay in various +positions, mutilated in every conceivable way. Among the fallen we +perceived the gallant colonel of the hussars lying under his horse, +which had been killed, All of a sudden two riflemen of the Brunswickers +left their battalion, and after taking from their helpless victim his +purse, watch, and other articles of value, they deliberately put the +colonel's pistols to the poor fellow's head and blew out his brains. +"Shame! shame!" was heard from our ranks, and a feeling of indignation +ran through the whole line; but the deed was done: this brave soldier +lay a lifeless corpse in sight of his cruel foes, whose only excuse +perhaps was that their sovereign, the Duke of Brunswick, had been killed +two days before by the French. + +Again and again various cavalry regiments, heavy dragoons, lancers, +hussars, carabineers of the Guard, endeavoured to break our walls of +steel. The enemy's cavalry had to advance over ground which was so heavy +that they could not reach us except at a trot; they therefore came upon +us in a much more compact mass than they probably would have done if +the ground had been more favourable. When they got within ten or fifteen +yards they discharged their carbines, to the cry of "Vive l' Empereur!" +their fire produced little effect, as that of cavalry generally does. +Our men had orders not to fire unless they could do so on a near mass; +the object being to economize our ammunition, and not to waste it on +scattered soldiers. The result was, that when the cavalry had discharged +their carbines, and were still far off, we occasionally stood face to +face, looking at each other inactively, not knowing what the next move +might be. The lancers were particularly troublesome, and approached +us with the utmost daring. On one occasion I remember, the enemy's +artillery having made a gap in the square, the lancers were evidently +waiting to avail themselves of it, to rush among us, when Colonel Staples +at once observing their intention, with the utmost promptness filled +up the gap, and thus again completed our impregnable steel wall; but +in this act he fell mortally wounded. The cavalry seeing this, made +no attempt to carry out their original intentions, and observing that +we had entirely regained our square, confined themselves to hovering +round us. I must not forget to mention that the lancers in particular +never failed to despatch our wounded whenever they had an opportunity +of doing so. + +When we received cavalry, the order was to fire low; so that on the +first discharge of musketry the ground was strewed with the fallen horses +and their riders, which impeded the advance of those behind them and +broke the shock of the charge. It was pitiable to witness the agony +of the poor horses, who really seemed conscious of the dangers that +surrounded them: we often saw a poor wounded animal raise its head, +as if looking for its rider to afford him aid. There is nothing perhaps +amongst the episodes of a great battle more striking than the debris +of a cavalry charge, where men and horses are seen scattered and wounded +on the ground in every variety of painful attitude. Many a time the +heart sickened at the moaning tones of agony which came from man and +scarcely less intelligent horse, as they lay in fearful agony upon the +field of battle. + + +THE LAST CHARGE AT WATERLOO + + +It was about five o'clock on that memorable day, that we suddenly received +orders to retire behind an elevation in our rear. The enemy's artillery +had come up en masse within a hundred yards of us. By the time they +began to discharge their guns, however, we were lying down behind the +rising ground, and protected by the ridge before referred to. The enemy's +cavalry was in the rear of their artillery, in order to be ready to +protect it if attacked; but no attempt was made on our part to do so. +After they had pounded away at us for about half an hour, they deployed, +and up came the whole mass of the Imperial infantry of the Guard, led +on by the Emperor in person. We had now before us probably about 20,000 +of the best soldiers in France, the heroes of many memorable victories; +we saw the bearskin caps rising higher and higher as they ascended the +ridge of ground which separated us, and advanced nearer and nearer to +our lines. It was at this moment the Duke of Wellington gave his famous +order for our bayonet charge, as he rode along the line: these are the +precise words he made use of - "Guards, get up and charge!" We were +instantly on our legs, and after so many hours of inaction and irritation +at maintaining a purely defensive attitude - all the time suffering +the loss of comrades and friends - the spirit which animated officers +and men may easily be imagined. after firing a volley as soon as the +enemy were within shot, we rushed on with fixed bayonets, and that hearty +hurrah peculiar to British soldiers. + +It appeared that our men, deliberately and with calculation, singled +out their victims; for as they came upon the Imperial Guard our line +broke, and the fighting became irregular. The impetuosity of our men +seemed almost to paralyze their enemies: I witnessed several of the +Imperial Guard who were run through the body apparently without any +resistance on their parts. I observed a big Welshman of the name of +Hughes, who was six feet seven inches in height, run through with his +bayonet, and knock down with the butt end of his firelock, I should +think a dozen at least of his opponents. This terrible contest did +not last more than ten minutes, for the Imperial Guard was soon in full +retreat, leaving all their guns and many prisoners in our hands. The +famous General Cambronne was taken prisoner fighting hand to hand with +the gallant Sir Colin Halkett, who was shortly after shot through the +cheeks by a grape-shot. Cambronne's supposed answer of "La Garde ne +se rend pas" was an invention of after-times, and he himself always +denied having used such an expression. + + +HUGUEMONT + + +Early on the morning after the battle of Waterloo, I visited Huguemont, +in order to witness with my own eyes the traces of one of +the most hotly-contested spots of the field of battle. I came first +upon the orchard, and there discovered heaps of dead men, in various +uniforms: those of the Guards in their usual red jackets, the German +Legion in green, and the French dressed in blue, mingled together. +The dead and the wounded positively covered the whole area of the orchard; +not less than two thousand men had there fallen. The apple-trees presented +a singular appearance; shattered branches were seen hanging about their +mother-trunks in such profusion that one might almost suppose the stiff-growing +and stunted tree had been converted into the willow: every tree was +riddled and smashed in a manner which told that the showers of shot +had been incessant. On this spot I lost some of my dearest and bravest +friends, and the country had to mourn many of its most heroic sons slain here. + +I must observe that, according to the custom of commanding officers, +whose business it is after a great battle to report to the Commander-in-Chief, +the muster-roll of fame always closes before the rank of captain. It +has always appeared to me a great injustice that there should ever be +any limit to the roll of gallantry of either officers or men. If a +captain, lieutenant, an ensign, a sergeant, or a private, has distinguished +himself for his bravery, his intelligence, or both, their deeds ought +to be reported, in order that the sovereign and nation should know who +really fight the great battles of England. Of the class of officers +and men to which I have referred, there were many of even superior rank +who were omitted to be mentioned in the public despatches. + +Thus, for example, to the individual courage of Lord Saltoun and Charley +Ellis, who commanded the light companies, was mainly owing our success +at Huguemont. The same may be said of Needham, Percival, Erskine, Grant, +Vyner, Buckley, Master, and young Algernon Greville, who at that time +could not have been more than seventeen years old. Excepting Percival, +whose jaws were torn away by a grape-shot, everyone of these heroes +miraculously escaped. + +I do not wish, in making these observations, to detract from the bravery +and skill of officers whose names have already been mentioned in official +despatches, but I think it only just that the services of those I have +particularized should not be forgotten by one of their companions in arms. + + +BYNG WITH HIS BRIGADE AT WATERLOO + + +No individual officer more distinguished himself than did General Byng +at the battle of Waterloo. In the early part of the day he was seen +at Huguemont, leading his men in the thick of the fight; later he was +with the battalion in square, where his presence animated to the utmost +enthusiasm both officers and men. It is difficult to imagine how this +courageous man passed through such innumerable dangers from shot and +shell without receiving a single wound. I must also mention some other +instances of courage and devotion in officers belonging to this brigade; +for instance, it was Colonel MacDonell, a man of colossal stature, with +Hesketh, Bowes, Tom Sowerby, and Hugh Seymour, who commanded from the +inside the Chateau of Huguemont. When the French had taken possession +of the orchard, they made a rush at the principal door of the chateau, +which had been turned into a fortress. MacDonell and the above officers +placed themselves, accompanied by some of their men, behind the portal +and prevented the French from entering. Amongst other officers of that +brigade who were most conspicuous for bravery, I would record the names +of Montague, the "vigorous Gooch," as he was called, and the well-known +Jack Standen. + + +THE LATE DUKE OF RICHMOND + + +One of the most intimate friends of the Duke of Wellington was the Earl +of March, afterwards Duke of Richmond. He was a genuine hard-working +soldier, a man of extraordinary courage, and one who was ever found +ready to gain laurels amidst the greatest dangers. When the 7th Fusiliers +crossed the Bidassoa, the late duke left the staff and joined the regiment +in which he had a company. At Orthes, in the thick of the fight, he +received a shot which passed through his lungs; from this severe wound +he recovered sufficiently to be able to join the Duke of Wellington, +to whom he was exceedingly useful at the battle of Waterloo. On his +return to England, he united himself to the most remarkably beautiful +girl of the day, the eldest daughter of Lord Anglesea, and whose mother +was the lovely Duchess of Argyle. + + +THE UNFORTUNATE CHARGE OF THE HOUSEHOLD BRIGADE + + +When Lord Uxbridge gave orders to Sir W. Ponsonby and Lord Edward Somerset +to charge the enemy, our cavalry advanced with the greatest bravery, +cut through everything in their way, and gallantly attacked whole regiments +of infantry; but eventually they came upon a masked battery of twenty +guns, which carried death and destruction through our ranks, and our +poor fellows were obliged to give way. The French cavalry followed +on their retreat, when, perhaps, the severest hand-to-hand cavalry fighting +took place within the memory of man. The Duke of Wellington was perfectly +furious that this arm had been engaged without his orders, and lost +not a moment in sending them to the rear, where they remained during +the rest of the day. This disaster gave the French cavalry an opportunity +of annoying and insulting us, and compelled the artillerymen to seek +shelter in our squares; and if the French had been provided with tackle, +or harness of any description, our guns would have been taken. It is, +therefore, not to be wondered at that the Duke should have expressed +himself in no measured terms about the cavalry movements referred to. +I recollect that, when his grace was in our square, our soldiers were +so mortified at seeing the French deliberately wa1king their horses +between our regiment and those regiments to our right and left, that +they shouted, "Where are our cavalry? why don't they come and pitch +into those French fellows?" + + +THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON'S OPINION OF THE FRENCH CAVALRY + + +A day or two after our arrival in Paris from Waterloo, Colonel Felton +Hervey having entered the dining-room with the despatches which had +come from London, the Duke asked, "What news have you, Hervey?" upon +which, Colonel Felton Hervey answered, "I observe by the Gazette that +the Prince Regent has made himself Captain-General of the Life Guards +and Blues, for their brilliant conduct at Waterloo." + +"Ah!" replied the Duke, "his Royal Highness is our Sovereign, and can +do what he pleases; but this I will say, the cavalry of other European +armies have won victories for their generals, but mine have invariably +got me into scrapes. It is true that they have always fought gallantly +and bravely, and have generally got themselves out of their difficulties +by sheer pluck." + +The justice of this observation has since been confirmed by the charge +at Balaklava, where our cavalry undauntedly rushed into the face of +death under the command of that intrepid officer Lord Cardigan. + + +MARSHAL EXCELMANN'S OPINION OF THE BRITISH CAVALRY + + +Experience has taught me that there is nothing more valuable than the +opinions of intelligent foreigners on the military and naval excellences, +and the failures, of our united service. Marshal Excelmann's opinion +about the British cavalry struck me as remarkably instructive: he used +to say, "Your horses are the finest in the world, and your men ride +better than any Continental soldiers; with such materials, the English +cavalry ought to have done more than has ever been accomplished by them +on the field of battle. The great deficiency is in your officers, who +have nothing to recommend them but their dash and sitting well in their +saddles; indeed, as far as my experience goes, your English generals +have never understood the use of cavalry: they have undoubtedly frequently +misapplied that important arm of a grand army, and have never, up to +the battle of Waterloo, employed the mounted soldier at the proper time +and in the proper place. The British cavalry officer seems to be impressed +with the conviction that he can dash and ride over everything; as if +the art of war were precisely the same as that of fox-hunting. I need +not remind you of the charge of your two heavy brigades at Waterloo: +this charge was utterly useless, and all the world knows they came upon +a masked battery, which obliged a retreat, and entirely disconcerted +Wellington's plans during the rest of the day." + +"Permit me," he added, "to point out a gross error as regards the dress +of your cavalry. I have seen prisoners so tightly habited that it was +impossible for them to use their sabres with facility." The French Marshal +concluded by observing - "I should wish nothing better than such material +as your men and horses are made of; since with generals who wield cavalry, +and officers who are thoroughly acquainted with that duty in the field, +I do not hesitate to say I might gain a battle." + +Such was the opinion of a man of cool judgment, and one of the most +experienced cavalry officers of the day. + + + +APPEARANCE OF PARIS WHEN THE ALLIES ENTERED + + +I propose giving my own impression of the aspect of Paris and its vicinity +when our regiment entered that city on the 25th of June, 1815. I recollect +we marched from the plain of St. Denis, my battalion being about five +hundred strong, the survivors of the heroic fight of the 18th of June. +We approached near enough to be within fire of the batteries of Montmartre, +and bivouacked for three weeks in the Bois de Boulogne. That now beautiful +garden was at the period to which I refer a wild pathless wood, swampy, +and entirely neglected. The Prussians, who were in bivouac near us, +amused themselves by doing as much damage as they could, without any +useful aim or object: they cut down the finest trees, and set the wood +on fire at several points. There were about three thousand of the Guards +then encamped in the wood, and I should think about ten thousand Prussians. +Our camp was not remarkable for its courtesy towards them; in fact, +our intercourse was confined to the most ordinary demands of duty, as +allies in an enemy's country. + +I believe I was one of the first of the British army who penetrated +into the heart of Paris after Waterloo. I entered by the Porte Maillot, +and passed the Arc de Triomphe, which was then building. In those days +the Champs Elysees only contained a few scattered houses, and the roads +and pathways were ancle deep in mud. The only attempt at lighting was +the suspension of a few lamps on cords, which crossed the roads. Here +I found the Scotch regiments bivouacking; their peculiar uniform created +a considerable sensation amongst the Parisian women, who did not hesitate +to declare that the want of culottes was most indecent. I passed through +the camp, and proceeded on towards the gardens of the Tuilleries. This +ancient palace of the Kings of France presented, so far as the old front +is concerned, the same aspect that it does at the present day; but there +were then no flower-gardens, although the same stately rows of trees +which now ornament the grounds were then in their midsummer verdure. + +Being in uniform, I created an immense amount of curiosity amongst the +Parisians; who, by the way, I fancied regarded me with no loving looks. +The first house I entered was a cafe in the garden of the Tuilleries, +called Legac's. I there met a man who told me he was by descent an +Englishman; though he had been born in Paris, and had really never quitted +France. He approached me, saying, "Sir, I am delighted to see an English +officer in Paris, and you are the first I have yet met with." He talked +about the battle of Waterloo, and gave me some useful directions concerning +restaurants and cafes. Along the Boulevards were handsome houses, isolated, +with gardens interspersed, and the roads were bordered on both sides +with stately, spreading trees, some of them probably a hundred years +old. There was but an imperfect pavement, the stepping-stones of which +were adapted to display the Parisian female ankle and boot in all their +calculated coquetry; and the road showed nothing but mother earth, in +the middle of which a dirty gutter served to convey the impurities of +the city to the river. The people in the streets appeared sulky and +stupefied: here and there I noticed groups of the higher classes evidently +discussing the events of the moment. + +How strange humanity would look in our day in the costume of the first +empire. The ladies wore very scanty and short skirts, which left little +or no waist; their bonnets were of exaggerated proportions, and protruded +at least a foot from their faces, and they generally carried a fan. +The men wore blue or black coats, which were baggily made, and reached +down to their ankles; their hats were enormously large, and spread out +at the top. + +I dined the first day of my entrance into Paris at the Cafe Anglais, +on the Boulevard des Italiens, where I found to my surprise several +of my brother officers. I recollect the charge for the dinner was about +one-third what it would be at the present day. I had a potage, fish +- anything but fresh, and, according to English predilections and taste, +of course I ordered a beef-steak and pommes de terre. The wine, I thought, +was sour. The dinner cost about two francs. The theatres at this time, +as may easily be imagined, were not very well attended. I recollect +going to the Francais, where I saw for the first time the famous Talma. +There was but a scanty audience; in fact all the best places in the +house were empty. + +It may easily be imagined that, at a moment like this, most of those +who had a stake in the country were pondering over the great and real +drama that was then taking place. Napoleon had fled to Rochfort; the +wreck of his army had retreated beyond the Loire; no list of killed +and wounded had appeared; and, strange to say, the official journal +of Paris had made out that the great Imperial army at Waterloo had gained +a victory. There were, nevertheless, hundreds of people in Paris who +knew to the contrary, and many were already aware that they had lost +relations and friends in the great battle. + +Louis XVIII. arrived, as well as I can remember, at the Tuileries on +the 26th of July, 1815, and his reception by the Parisians was a singular +illustration of the versatile character of the French nation, and the +sudden and often inexplicable changes which take place in the feeling +of the populace. When the Bourbon, in his old lumbering state carriage, +drove down the Boulevards, accompanied by the Garde du Corps, the people +in the streets and at the windows displayed the wildest joy, enthusiastically +shouting "Vive le Roi!" amidst the waving of hats and handkerchiefs, +while white sheets or white rags were made to do the duty of a Bourbon +banner. The king was dressed in a blue coat with a red collar, and +wore also a white waistcoat and a cocked hat with a white cockade in +it. His portly and good-natured appearance seemed to be appreciated +by the crowd, whom he saluted with a benevolent smile. I should here +mention that two great devotees of the Church sat opposite to the King +on this memorable occasion. The cortege proceeded slowly down the Rue +de la Paix until the Tuileries was reached, where a company of the +Guards, together with a certain number of the Garde Nationale of Paris, +were stationed. + +It fell to my lot to be on duty the day after, when the Duke of Wellington +and Lord Castlereagh arrived to pay their respects to the restored monarch. +I happened to be in the Salle des Marechaux when these illustrious personages +passed through that magnificent apartment. The respect paid to the +Duke of Wellington on this occasion may be easily imagined, from the +fact that a number of ladies of the highest rank, and of course partisans +of the legitimate dynasty, formed an avenue through which the hero of +Waterloo passed, exchanging with them courteous recognitions. The King +was waiting in the grand reception apartment to receive the great British +captain. The interview, I have every reason to believe, was not confined +to the courtesies of the palace. + +The position of the Duke was a difficult one. In the first place, he +had to curb the vindictive vandalism of Blucher and his army, who would +have levelled the city of Paris to the ground, if they could have done +so; on the other hand, he had to practise a considerable amount of diplomacy +towards the newly-restored King. At the same time the Duke's powers +from his own Government were necessarily limited. A spirit of vindictiveness +pervaded the restored Court against Napoleon and his adherents, which +the Duke constantly endeavoured to modify. I must not forget to give +an illustration of this state of feeling. It was actually proposed +by Talleyrand, Fouche, and some important ecclesiastics of the ultra-royalist +party, to arrest and shoot the Emperor Napoleon, who was then at Rochfort: +so anxious were they to commit this criminal, inhuman, and cowardly +act, on an illustrious fallen enemy, who had made the arms of France +glorious throughout Europe, that they suggested to the Duke, who had +the command of the old wooden-armed semaphores, to employ the telegraph +to order what I should have designated by no other name than the assassination +of the Caesar of modern history. + + + +MARSHAL NEY AND WELLINGTON + + +As an illustration of the false impressions which are always disseminated +concerning public men, I must record the following fact: - The Duke +of Wellington was accused of being implicated in the military murder +of Ney. Now, so far from this being the truth, I know positively that +the Duke of Wellington used every endeavour to prevent this national +disgrace; but the Church party, ever crafty and ever ready to profit +by the weakness and passions of humanity, supported the King in his +moments of excited revenge. It is a lamentable fact, but no less historical +truth, that the Roman Catholic Church has ever sought to make the graves +of its enemies the foundations of its power. The Duke of Wellington +was never able to approach the King or use his influence to save Marshal +Ney's life; but everything he could do was done, in order to accomplish +his benevolent views. I repeat, the influence of the ultra-montane party +triumphed over the Christian humanity of the illustrious Duke. + + +THE PALAIS ROYAL AFTER THE RESTORATION + + +France has often been called the centre of European fashion and gaiety; +and the Palais Royal, at the period to which I refer, might be called +the very heart of French dissipation. It was a theatre in which all +the great actors of fashion of all nations met to play their parts: +on this spot were congregated daily an immense multitude, for no other +purpose than to watch the busy comedy of real life that animated the +corridors, gardens, and saloons of that vast building, which was founded +by Richelieu and Mazarin, and modified by Philippe Egalite. Mingled +together, and moving about the area of this oblong-square block of buildings, +might be seen, about seven o'clock P.M., a crowd of English, Russian, +Prussian, Austrian, and other officers of the Allied armies, together +with countless foreigners from all parts of the world. Here, too, might +have been seen the present King of Prussia, with his father and brother, +the late king, the Dukes of Nassau, Baden, and a host of continental +princes, who entered familiarly into the amusements of ordinary mortals, +dining incog. at the most renowned restaurants, and flirting with painted +female frai1ty, + +A description of one of the houses of the Palais Royal, will serve to +portray the whole of this French pandemonium. On the ground floor is +a jeweller's shop, where may be purchased diamonds, pearls, emeralds, +and every description of female ornament, such as only can be possessed +by those who have very large sums of money at their command. It was +here that the successful gambler often deposited a portion of his winnings, +and took away some costly article of jewellery, which he presented to +some female friend who had never appeared with him at the altar of marriage. +Beside this shop was a staircase, generally very dirty, which communicated +with the floors above. Immediately over the shop was a cafe, at the +counter of which presided a lady, generally of more than ordinary female +attractions, who was very much decolletee, and wore an amount of jewellery +which would have made the eye of an Israelite twinkle with delight. +And there la creme de la creme of male society used to meet, sip their +ice and drink their cup of mocha, whilst holding long conversations, +almost exclusively about gambling and women. + +Men's thoughts, in this region, seemed to centre night and day upon +the tapis vert, and at the entrance of this salon was that fatal chamber, +over which might have been written the famous line of Dante, "Voi che +entrate lasciate ogni speranza." The reader will at once understand +that I am referring to the gambling-house, the so-called "hell" of modern +society. In one room was the rouge et noir table, which, from the hour +of twelve in the morning, was surrounded by men in every stage of the +gambling malady. There was the young pigeon, who, on losing his first +feather, had experienced an exciting sensation which, if followed by +a bit of good luck, gave him a confidence that the parasites around +him, in order to flatter his vanity, would call pluck. There were others +in a more advanced stage of the fever, who had long since lost the greater +part of their incomes, having mortgaged their property, and been in +too frequent correspondence with the Jews. These men had not got to +the last stage of gambling despair, but they were so far advanced on +the road to perdition that their days were clouded by perpetual anxiety, +which reproduced itself in their very dreams. The gambler who has thus +far advanced in his career, lives in an inferno of his own creation: +the charms of society, the beauty of woman, the attractions of the fine +arts, and even the enjoyment of a good dinner, are to him rather a source +of irritation than delight. The confirmed gamester is doing nothing +less than perpetually digging a grave for his own happiness. + +The third and most numerous group of men round the tapis vert consisted +of a class most of whom had already spent their fortunes, exhausted +their health, and lost their position in society, by the fatal and demoralizing +thirst for gold, which still fascinated them. These became the hawks +of the gambling table; their quick and wild-glancing eyes were constantly +looking out for suitable game during the day, and leaving it where it +might be bagged at night. Both at the rouge et noir table and roulette +the same sort of company might be met with. These gambling-houses were +the very fountains of immorality: they gathered together, under the +most seductive circumstances, the swindler and the swindled. There +were tables for all classes - the workman might play with 20 sous, or +the gentleman with 10,000 francs. The law did not prevent any class +from indulging in a vice that assisted to fill the coffers of the municipality +of Paris. + +The floor over the gambling-house was occupied by unmarried women. +I will not attempt to picture some of the saddest evils of the society +of large cities; but I may add that these Phrynes lived in a style of +splendour which can only be accounted for by the fact of their participating +in the easily-earned gains of the gambling-house regime. Such was the +state of the Palais Royal under Louis XVIII. and Charles X. : the Palais +Royal of the present day is simply a tame and legitimately-commercial +mart, compared with that of olden times. Society has changed; Government +no longer patronizes such nests of immorality; and though vice may exist +to the same extent, it assumes another garb, and does not appear in +the open streets, as at the period to which I have referred. + +At that time, the Palais Royal was externally the only well-lighted +place in Paris. It was the rendezvous of all idlers, and especially +of that particular class of ladies who lay out their attractions for +the public at large. These were to be seen at all hours in full dress, +their bare necks ornamented with mock diamonds and pearls; and thus +decked out in all their finery, they paraded up and down, casting their +eyes significantly on every side. Some strange stories are told in +connection with the gambling houses of the Palais Royal. An officer +of the Grenadier Guards came to Paris on leave of absence, took apartments +here, and never left it until his time of absence had expired. On his +arrival in London one of his friends inquired whether this was true, +to which he replied, "Of course it is; for I found everything I wanted +there, both for body and mind." + + +THE ENGLISH IN PARIS AFTER THE RESTORATION OF THE BOURBONS + + +There is no more ordinary illusion belonging to humanity than that which +enables us to discover, in the fashions of the day, an elegance and +comeliness of dress which a few years after we ourselves regard as odious +caricatures of costume. Thousands of oddly-dressed English flocked +to Paris immediately after the war: I remember that the burden of one +of the popular songs of the day was, "All the world's in Paris;" and +our countrymen and women having so long been excluded from French modes, +had adopted fashions of their own quite as remarkable and eccentric +as those of the Parisians, and much less graceful. British beauties +were dressed in long, strait pelisses of various colours; the body of +the dress was never of the same colour as the skirt; and the bonnet +was of the bee-hive shape, and very small. The characteristic of the +dress of the gentleman was a coat of light blue, or snuff-colour, With +brass buttons, the tail reaching nearly to the heels; a gigantic bunch +of seals dangled from his fob, whilst his pantaloons were short and +tight at the knees; and a spacious waistcoat, with a voluminous muslin +cravat and a frilled shirt, completed the toilette. The dress of the +British military, in its stiff and formal ugliness, was equally cumbrous +and ludicrous. + +Lady Oxford - that beautiful and accomplished woman, who lived in her +hotel in the Rue de Clichy - gave charming soirees, at which were gathered +the elite of Paris society. Among these were Edward Montague, Charles +Standish, Hervey Aston, Arthur Upton, "Kangaroo" Cook, Benjamin Constant, +Dupin, Casimir Perier, as well as the chief Orleanists. On one occasion, +I recollect seeing there George Canning and the celebrated Madame de +Stael. Cornwall, the eldest son of the Bishop of Worcester, had, from +some unaccountable cause, a misunderstanding with Madame de Stael, who +appeared very excited, and said to Lady Oxford, in a loud voice, "Notre +ami, M. Cornewal, est grosso, rosso, e furioso." It should be observed +that the gentleman thus characterized was red-haired, and hasty in temper. +All who heard this denunciation were astounded at the lady's manner, +for she looked daggers at the object of her sarcasm. +Fox, the secretary of the embassy, was an excellent man, but odd, indolent, +and careless in the extreme; he was seldom seen in the daytime, unless +it was either at the embassy in a state of negligee, or in bed. At +night he used to go to the Salon des Etrangers; and, if he possessed +a Napoleon, it was sure to be thrown away at hazard, or rouge et noir. +On one occasion, however, fortune favoured him in a most extraordinary +manner. The late Henry Baring having recommended him to take the dice-box, +Fox replied, "I will do so for the last time, for all my money is thrown +away upon this infernal table." Fox staked all he had in his pockets; +he threw in eleven times, breaking the bank, and taking home for his +share 60,000 francs. After this, several days passed without any tidings +being heard of him; but upon my calling at the embassy to get my passport +vised, I went into his room, and saw it filled with Cashmere shawls, +silk, Chantilly veils, bonnets, gloves, shoes, and other articles of +ladies' dress. On my asking the purpose of all this millinery, Fox +replied, in a good-natured way, "Why, my dear Gronow, it was the only +means to prevent those rascals at the salon winning back my money." + + +LES ANGLAISES POUR RIRE + + +An order had been given to the managers of all the theatres in Paris +to admit a certain number of soldiers of the army of occupation, free +of expense. It happened that a party of the Guards, composed of a sergeant +and a few men, went to the Theatre des Varietes on the Boulevards, where +one of the pieces, entitled Les Anglaises pour Rire, was admirably acted +by Potier and Brunet. In this piece Englishwomen were represented in +a very ridiculous light by those accomplished performers. This gave +great offence to our soldiers, and the sergeant and his men determined +to put a stop to the acting; accordingly they stormed the stage, and +laid violent hands upon the actors, eventually driving them off. The +police were called in, and foolishly wanted to take our men to prison; +but they soon found to their cost that they had to deal with unmanageable +opponents, for the whole posse of gendarmes were charged and driven +out of the theatre. A crowd assembled on the Boulevards; which, however, +soon dispersed when it became known that English soldiers were determined, +coute qu'il coute, to prevent their countrywomen from being ridiculed. +It must be remembered that the only revenge which the Parisians were +able to take upon the conquerors was to ridicule them; and the English +generally took it in good humour, and laughed at the extravagant drollery +of the burlesque. + +The English soldiers generally walked about Paris in parties of a dozen, +and were quiet and well-behaved. They usually gathered every day on +the Boulevard du Temple, where they were amused with the mountebanks +and jugglers there assembled. + +This part of Paris is now completely changed: but at the time I speak +of, it was an extensive open place, where every species of fun was carried +on, as at fairs: there were gambling, rope-dancing, wild beasts, and +shows; booths for the sale of cakes, gingerbread, fruit, and lemonade; +and every species of attraction that pleases the multitude; but that +space has now been built upon, and these sports have all migrated to +the barriers. + +During the time our troops remained, we had only one man found dead +in the streets: it was said that he had been murdered; but of that there +was considerable doubt, for no signs of violence were found. This was +strongly in contrast to what occurred to the Prussian soldiers. It was +asserted, and, indeed, proved beyond a doubt, that numbers of them were +assassinated; and in some parts of France it was not unusual to find +in the morning, in deep wells or cellars, several bodies of soldiers +of that nation who had been killed during the night; so strong was the +hatred borne against them by the French. + + +COACHING AND RACING IN 1815 + + +Stage-coaches, or four-in-hand teams, were introduced in Paris in 1815 +by Captain Bacon, of the 10th Hussars (afterwards a general in the Portuguese +service), Sir Charles Smith, Mr. Roles, the brewer, and Arnold, of +the 10th. They used to meet opposite Demidoff's house, afterwards the +Cafe de Paris, and drive to the Boulevard Beaumarchais, and then back +again, proceeding to the then unfinished Arc du Triomphe. Crowds assembled +to witness the departure of the teams; and it created no little amusement +to the Parisian to see perched upon Sir C. Smith's coach one or two +smartly-dressed ladies, who appeared quite at home. Sir Charles was +likewise a great supporter of the turf, and was the first man who brought +over from England thorough-bred horses. By his indefatigable energy +he contrived to get up very fair racing in the neighbourhood of Valenciennes; +his trainer at this time being Tom Hurst, who is now, I believe, at +Chantilly; and all the officers of our several cavalry and infantry +regiments contributed their efforts to make these races respectable +in the eyes of foreigners. Be this as it may, they were superior to +those in the Champs de Mars, though under the patronage of the King. + +I shall not forget the first time I witnessed racing in Paris, for it +was more like a review of Gensdarmes and National Guards; the course +was kept by a forest of bayonets, while mounted police galloped after +the running horses, and, in some instances, reached the goal before +them. The Duc d' Angouleme, with the Duc de Guiche and the Prefet, were +present; but there was only one small stand, opposite to a sentry-box +where the judge was placed. The running, to say the least of it, was +ridiculous: horses and riders fell; and the fete, as it was called, +ended with a flourish of trumpets. Wonderful changes have taken place +since that time, and at the Bois de Boulogne and at Chantilly may be +seen running equal to that of our best races in England; and our neighbours +produce horses, bred in France, that can carry off some of the great +prizes in our own "Isthmian games." + + +PARISIAN CAFES IN 1815 + + +At the present day, Paris may be said to be a city of cafes and restaurants. +The railroads and steamboats enable the rich of every quarter of the +globe to reach the most attractive of all European cities with comparative +economy and facility. All foreigners arriving in Paris seem by instinct +to rush to the restaurateurs', where strangers may be counted by tens +of thousands. It is not surprising that we find in every important +street these gaudy modern triclinia, which, I should observe, are as +much frequented by a certain class of French people as by foreigners, +for Paris is proverbially fond of dining out; in fact, the social intercourse +may be said to take place more frequently in the public cafe than under +the domestic roof. + +In 1815, I need scarcely remark that the condition of the roads in Europe, +and the enormous expense of travelling, made a visit to Paris a journey +which could only be indulged in by a very limited and wealthy class +of strangers. Hotels and cafes were then neither so numerous nor so +splendid as at the present day: Meurice's Hotel was a very insignificant +establishment in the Rue de l'Echiquier; and in the Rue de la Paix, +at that time unfinished, there were but two or three hotels, which would +not be considered even second-rate at the present time. The site of +the Maison Dore, at the corner of the Rue Lafitte, was then occupied +by a shabby building which went by the name of the Hotel d'Angleterre, +and was kept by the popular and once beautiful Madame Dunan. The most +celebrated restaurant was that of Beauvilliers, in the Rue de Richelieu; +mirrors and a little gilding were the decorative characteristics of +this house; the cuisine was far superior to that of any restaurateur +of our day, and the wines were first-rate. Beauvilliers was also celebrated +for his supreme de volaille, and for his cotelette a la Soubise. The +company consisted of the most distinguished men of Paris; here were +to be seen Chateaubriand, Bailly de Ferrette, the Dukes of Fitzjames, +Rochefoucauld, and Grammont, and many other remarkable personages. It +was the custom to go to the theatres after dinner, and then to the Salon +des Etrangers, which was the Parisian Crockford's. +Another famous dining-house was the Rocher de Cancaille, in the Rue +Mandar, kept by Borel, formerly one of the cooks of Napoleon. Here +the cuisine was so refined that people were reported to have come over +from England expressly for the purpose of enjoying it: indeed, Borel +once showed me a list of his customers, amongst whom I found the names +of Robespierre, Charles James Fox, and the Duke of Bedford. In the +Palais Royal the still well-known Trois Freres Provenceaux was in vogue, +and frequented much by the French officers; being celebrated chiefly +for its wines and its Provence dishes: it was in the Palais Royal that +General Lannes, Junot, Murat, and other distinguished officers, used +to meet Bonaparte just before and during the Consulate; but the cafes, +with the exception of the Mille Colonnes, were not nearly so smartly +fitted-up as they now are. The Cafe Turc, on the Boulevard du Temple, +latterly visited chiefly by shopkeepers, was much frequented: smoking +was not allowed, and then, as now, ladies were seen here; more especially +when the theatres had closed. + + +REVIEW OF THE ALLIED ARMIES BY THE ALLIED SOVEREIGNS IN PARIS + + +In July, 1815, it was agreed by the Sovereigns of Russia, Austria, Prussia, +Bavaria, Wurtemberg, and a host of petty German Powers - who had become +wonderfully courageous and enthusiastically devoted to England, a few +hours after the Battle of Waterloo - that a grand review should be held +on the plains of St. Denis, where the whole of the allied forces were +to meet. Accordingly, at an early hour on a fine summer morning, there +were seen issuing from the various roads which centre on the plains +of St. Denis, numerous English, Russian, Prussian, and Austrian regiments +of horse and foot, in heavy marching order, with their bands playing; +and finally a mass of men, numbering not less than 200,000, took up +their positions on the wide-spreading field. About twelve o'clock, +the Duke of Wellington, commander-in-chief of the allied army, approached, +mounted on a favourite charger; and, strange as it may appear, on his +right was observed a lady in a plain riding-habit, who was no other +than Lady Shelley, the wife of the late Sir John Shelley. Immediately +behind the Duke followed the Emperors of Austria, and Russia; the Kings +of Prussia, Holland, Bavaria, and Wurtemberg; several German princes, +and general officers; the whole forming one of the most illustrious +and numerous staffs ever brought together. The Duke of Wellington, +thus accompanied, took up his position, and began manoeuvering, with +a facility and confidence which elicited the admiration of all the experienced +soldiers around him. Being on duty near his grace, I had an opportunity +of hearing Prince Schwartzenberg say to the Duke, "You are the only +man who can so well play at this game." The review lasted two hours; +then the men marching home to their quarters, through a crowd of spectators +which included the whole population of Paris. The most mournful silence +was observed throughout on the part of the French. + + + +CONDUCT OF THE RUSSIAN AND PRUSSIAN SOLDIERS DURING THE OCCUPATION OF +PARIS BY THE ALLIES + +It is only just to say that the moderation shown by the British army, +from the Duke of Wellington down to the private soldier, during our +occupation of Paris, contrasted most favourably with that of the Russian +and Prussian military. Whilst we simply did our duty, and were civil +to all those with whom we came in contact, the Russians and Prussians +were frequently most insubordinate, and never lost an opportunity of +insulting a people whose armies had almost always defeated them on the +day of battle. I remember one particular occasion, when the Emperor +of Russia reviewed his Garde Imperiale, that the Cossacks actually charged +the crowd, and inflicted wounds on the unarmed and inoffensive spectators. +I recollect, too, a Prussian regiment displaying its bravery in the +Rue St. Honore on a number of hackney coachmen; indeed, scarcely a +day passed without outrages being committed by the Russian and Prussian +soldiers on the helpless population of the lower orders. + + +THE BRITISH EMBASSY IN PARIS + + +England was represented at this period by Sir Charles Stuart, who was +one of the most popular ambassadors Great Britain ever sent to Paris. +He made himself acceptable to his countrymen, and paid as much attention +to individual interests as to the more weighty duties of State. His +attaches, as is always the case, took their tone and manner from their +chief, and were not only civil and agreeable to all those who went to +the Embassy, but knew everything and everybody, and were of great use +to the ambassador, keeping him well supplied with information on whatever +event might be taking place. The British Embassy, in those days, was +a centre where you were sure to find all the English gentlemen in Paris +collected, from time to time. Dinners, balls, and receptions, were +given with profusion throughout the season: in fact, Sir Charles spent +the whole of his private income in these noble hospitalities. England +was then represented, as it always should be in France, by an ambassador +who worthily expressed the intelligence, the amiability, and the wealth, +of the great country to which he belonged. At the present day, the +British Embassy emulates the solitude of a monastic establishment; with +the exception, however, of that hospitality and courtesy which the traveller +and stranger were wont to experience, even in monasteries. + + +ESCAPE OF LAVALETTE FROM PRISON + + +Few circumstances created a greater sensation than the escape of Lavalette +from the Conciergerie, after he had been destined by the French Government +to give employment to the guillotine. The means by which the prisoner +avoided his fate and disappointed his enemies, produced a deep respect +for the English character, and led the French to believe that, however +much the Governments of France and England might be disposed to foster +feelings either of friendship or of enmity, individuals could entertain +the deepest sense of regard for each other, and that a chivalrous feeling +of honour would urge them on to the exercise of the noblest feelings +of our nature. This incident likewise had a salutary influence in preventing +acts of cruelty and of bloodshed, which were doubtless contemplated +by those in power. + +Lavalette had been, under the Imperial Government, head of the Post +Office, which place he filled on the return of the Bourbons; and when +the Emperor Napoleon arrived from Elba, he continued still to be thus +employed. Doubtless, on all occasions when opportunity presented itself, +he did all in his power to serve his great master; to whom, indeed, +he was allied by domestic ties, having married into the Beauharnais +family. When Louis the Eighteenth returned to Paris after the battle +of Waterloo, Lavalette and the unfortunate Marshal Ney were singled +out as traitors to the Bourbon cause, and tried, convicted, and sentenced +to death. The 26th of December was the day fixed for the execution of +Lavalette, a man of high respectability and of great connections, whose +only fault was fidelity to his chief. On the evening of the 21st, Madame +Lavalette, accompanied by her daughter and her governess, Madame Dutoit, +a lady of seventy years of age, presented herself at the Conciergerie, +to take a last farewell of her husband. She arrived at the prison in +a sedan chair. On this very day the Procureur-general had given an +order that no one should be admitted without an order signed by himself; +the greffier having, however, on previous occasions been accustomed +to receive Madame Lavalette with the two ladies who now sought also +to enter the cell, did not object to it; so these three ladies proposed +to take coffee with Lavalette. The under gaoler was sent to a neighbouring +cafe to obtain it, and during his absence Lavalette exchanged dresses +with his wife. He managed to pass undetected out of the prison, accompanied +by his daughter, and entered the chair in which Madame Lavalette had +arrived; which, owing to the management of a faithful valet, had been +placed so that no observation could be made of the person entering it. +The bearers found the chair somewhat heavier than usual, but were ignorant +of the change that had taken place, and were glad to find, after proceeding +a short distance, that the individual within preferred walking home, +and giving up the sedan to the young lady. On the greffier entering +the cell, he quickly discovered the ruse, and gave the alarm; the under +gaoler was despatched to stop the chair, but he was too late. + +Lavalette had formed a friendship with a young Englishman of the name +of Bruce; to whom he immediately had recourse, throwing himself upon +his generosity and kind feeling for protection, which was unhesitatingly +afforded. But as Bruce could do nothing alone, he consulted two English +friends who had shown considerable sympathy for the fate of Marshal +Ney - men of liberal principles and undoubted honour, and both of them +officers in the British service: these were Captain Hutchinson and General +Sir Robert Wilson. To the latter was committed the most difficult task, +that of conveying out of France the condemned prisoner; but for this +achievement few men were better fitted than Sir Robert Wilson, a man +of fertile imagination, ready courage, great assurance, and singular +power of command over others; who spoke French well, and was intimately +acquainted with the military habits of different nations. + +Sir Robert Wilson's career was a singular one: he had commenced life +an ardent enemy of Bonaparte, and it was upon his evidence, collected +in Egypt and published to the world, that the great general was for +a long time believed to have poisoned his wounded soldiers at Jaffa. +Afterwards he was attached to the Allied Sovereigns in their great campaign; +but upon his arrival in Paris, his views of public affairs became suddenly +changed; he threw off the yoke of preconceived opinions, became an ardent +liberal, and so continued to the last hours of his life. The cause +of this sudden change of opinion has never been thoroughly known, but +certain it is that on every occasion he supported liberal opinions with +a firmness and courage that astonished those who had known him in his +earlier days. + +Sir Robert undertook, in the midst of great dangers and difficulties, +to convey Lavalette out of France; having dressed him in the uniform +of an English officer, and obtained a passport under a feigned name, +he took him in a cabriolet past the barriers as far as Compiegne, where +a carriage was waiting for them. They passed through sundry examinations +at the fortified towns, but fortunately escaped; the great difficulty +being that, owing to Lavalette's having been the director of the posts, +his countenance was familiar to almost all the postmasters who supplied +relays of horses. At Cambray three hours were lost, from the gates +being shut, and at Valenciennes they underwent three examinations; but +eventually they got out of France. The police, however, became acquainted +with the fact that Lavalette had been concealed in the Rue de Helder +for three days, at the apartments of Mr. Bruce, and this enabled them +to trace all the circumstances, showing that it was at the apartments +of Hutchinson that Lavalette had changed his dress, and that he had +remained there the night before he quitted Paris. The consequence was +that Sir Robert Wilson, Bruce, and Hutchinson, were tried for aiding +the escape of a prisoner; and each of them was condemned to three months' +imprisonment: the under-gaoler, who had evidently been well paid for +services rendered, had two years' confinement allotted to him. I went +to see Sir Robert Wilson during his stay in the Conciergerie - a punishment +not very difficult to bear, but which marked him as a popular hero for +his life. A circumstance I remember made a strong impression on me, +proving that, however great may be the courage of a man +in trying circumstances, a trifling incident might severely shake his +nerves. I was accompanied by a favourite dog of the Countess of Oxford, +who, not being aware of the high character of Sir Robert, or dissatisfied +with his physiognomy, or for some good canine reason, took a sudden +antipathy, and inserted his teeth into a somewhat fleshy part, but without +doing much injury. The effect, however, on the General was extraordinary: +he was most earnest to have the dog killed; but being certain that the +animal was in no way diseased, I avoided obeying his wishes, and fear +that I thus lost the good graces of the worthy man. + + +DUELLING IN FRANCE IN 1815 + + +When the restoration of the Bourbons took place, a variety of circumstances +combined to render duelling so common, that scarcely a day passed without +one at least of these hostile meetings. Amongst the French themselves +there were two parties always ready to distribute to each other "des +coups d'epees" - the officers of Napoleon's army and the Bourbonist +officers of the Garde du Corps. Then, again, there was the irritating +presence of the English, Russian, Prussian, and Austrian officers in +the French capital. In the duels between these soldiers and the French, +the latter were always the aggressors. At Tortoni's, on the Boulevards, +there was a room set apart for such quarrelsome gentlemen, where, after +these meetings, they indulged in riotous champagne breakfasts. At this +cafe might be seen all the most notorious duellists, amongst whom I +can call to mind an Irishman in the Garde du Corps, W--, who was a most +formidable fire-eater. The number of duels in which he had been engaged +would seem incredible in the present day: he is said to have killed +nine of his opponents in one year! + +The Marquis de H--, descended of an ancient family in Brittany, also +in the Garde du Corps, likewise fought innumerable duels, killing many +of his antagonists. I have heard that on entering the army he was not +of a quarrelsome disposition, but was laughed at, and bullied into fighting +by his brother officers; and, like a wild beast that had once smelt +blood, from the day of his first duel he took a delight in such fatal +scenes - being ever ready to rush at and quarrel with any one. The +marquis has now, I am glad to say, subsided into a very quiet, placable, +and peacemaking old gentleman; but at the time I speak of he was much +blamed for his duel with F--, a young man of nineteen. While dining +at a cafe he exclaimed, "J'ai envie de tuer quelq'un," and rushed out +into the street and to the theatres, trying to pick a quarrel; but he +was so well known that no one was found willing to encounter him. At +last, at the Theatre de la Porte St. Martin, he grossly insulted this +young man, who was, I think, an eleve of the Ecole Polytechnique, and +a duel took place, under the lamp-post near the theatre, with swords. +He ran F-- through the body, and left him dead upon the ground. + +The late Marshal St. A-- and General J-- were great duellists at this +time, with a whole host of others whose names I forget. The meetings +generally took place in the Bois de Boulogne, and the favourite weapon +of the French was the small sword, or the sabre; but foreigners, in +fighting with the French, who were generally capital swordsmen, availed +themselves of the use of pistols. The ground for a duel with pistols +was marked out by indicating two spots, which were twenty-five paces +apart; the seconds then generally proceeded to toss up who should have +the first shot; when the principals were placed, and the word was given +to fire. + +The Cafe Foy, in the Palais Royal, was the principal place of rendezvous +for the Prussian officers, and to this cafe the French officers on half-pay +frequently proceeded in order to pick quarrels with their foreign invaders; +swords were quickly drawn, and frequently the most bloody frays took +place: these originated not in any personal hatred, but from national +jealousy on the part of the French, who could not bear the sight of +foreign soldiers in their capital; which, ruled by the great captain +of the age, had, like Rome, influenced the rest of the world. On one +occasion our Guards, who were on duty at the Palais Royal, were called +out to put an end to one of these encounters, in which fourteen Prussians +and ten Frenchmen were either killed or wounded. + +The French took every opportunity of insulting the English; and very +frequently, I am sorry to say, those insults were not met in a manner +to do honour to our character, Our countrymen in general were very pacific; +but the most awkward customer the French ever came across +was my fellow-countryman the late gallant Colonel Sir Charles S--, of +the Engineers, who was ready for them with anything: sword, pistols, +sabre, or fists - he was good at all; and though never seeking a quarrel, +he would not put up with the slightest insult. He killed three Frenchmen +in Paris, in quarrels forced upon him. I remember, in October, 1815, +being asked by a friend to dine at Beauvillier's, in the Rue Richelieu, +when Sir Charles S--, who was well known to us, occupied a table at +the farther end of the room. About the middle of the dinner we heard +a most extraordinary noise, and, on looking up, perceived that it arose +from S--'s table; he was engaged in beating the head of a smartly-dressed +gentleman with one of the long French loaves so well known to all who +have visited France. Upon asking the reason of such rough treatment +on the part of our countryman, he said he would serve all Frenchmen +in the same manner if they insulted him. The offence, it seems, proceeded +from the person who had just been chastised in so summary a manner: +he had stared and laughed at S-- in a rude way, for having ordered three +bottles of wine to be placed upon his table. The upshot of all this +was a duel, which took place next day at a place near Vincennes, and +in which S-- shot the unfortunate jester. + +When Sir Charles returned to Valenciennes, where he commanded the Engineers, +he found on his arrival a French officer waiting to avenge the death +of his relation, who had only been shot ten days before at Vincennes. +They accordingly fought, before S-- had time even to shave himself or +eat his breakfast; he having only just arrived in his coupe from Paris. +The meeting took place in the fosse of the fortress, and the first shot +from S--'s pistol killed the French officer, who had actually travelled +in the diligence from Paris for the purpose, as he boasted +to his fellow-travellers, of killing an Englishman. + +I recollect dining, in 1816, at Hervey Aston's, at the Hotel Breteuil +in the Rue de Rivoli, opposite the Tuileries, where I met Seymour Bathurst +and Captain E--, of the Artillery, a very good-looking man. After dinner, +Mrs. Aston took us as far as Tortoni's, on her way to the Opera. On +entering the cafe, Captain E-- did not touch his hat according to the +custom of the country, but behaved himself, a la John Bull, in a noisy +and swaggering manner; upon which, General, then Colonel J--, went up +to E-- and knocked off his hat, telling him that he hoped he would in +future behave himself better. Aston, Bathurst, and I, waited for some +time, expecting to see E-- knock J-- down, or, at all events, give him +his card as a preliminary to a hostile meeting, on receiving such an +insult; but he did nothing. We were very much disgusted and annoyed +at a countryman's behaving in such a manner, and, after a meeting at +my lodgings, we recommended Captain E--, in the strongest terms, to +call out Colonel J--, but he positively refused to do so, as he said +it was against his principles. This specimen of the white feather astonished +us beyond measure. Captain E-- shortly after received orders to start +for India, where I believe he died of cholera - in all probability of FUNK. + +I do not think that Colonel J-- would altogether have escaped with impunity, +after such a gratuitous insult to an English officer; but he retired +into the country almost immediately after the incident at Tortoni's, +and could not be found. + +There were many men in our army who did not thus disgrace the British +uniform when insulted by the French. I cannot omit the names of my +old friends Captain Burges, Mike Fitzgerald, Charles Hesse, and Thoroton; +each of whom, by their willingness to resent gratuitous offences, showed +that insults to Englishmen were not to be committed with impunity. +The last named officer having been grossly insulted by Marshal V--, +without giving him the slightest provocation, knocked him down: this +circumstance caused a great sensation in Paris, and brought about a +court of inquiry, which ended in the acquittal of Captain Thoroton. +My friend, B--, though he had only one leg, was a good swordsman, and +contrived to kill a man at Lyons who had jeered him about the loss of +his limb at Waterloo. My old and esteemed friend, Mike Fitzgerald, +son of Lord Edward and the celebrated Pamela, was always ready to measure +swords with the Frenchmen; and, after a brawl at Silves', the then fashionable +Bonapartist cafe at the corner of the Rue Lafitte and the Boulevard, +in which two of our Scotch countrymen showed the white feather, he and +another officer placed their own cards over the chimney-piece in the +principal room of the cafe, offering to fight any man, or number of +men, for the frequent public insult offered to Britons. This challenge, +however, was never answered. + +A curious duel took place at Beauvais during the occupation of France +by our army. A Captain B--, of one of our cavalry regiments quartered +in that town, was insulted by a French officer, B-- demanded satisfaction, +which was accepted; but the Frenchman would not fight with pistols. +B-- would not fight with swords; so at last it was agreed that they +should fight on horseback, with lances. The duel took place in the +neighbourhood of Beauvais, and a crowd assembled to witness it. B-- +received three wounds; but, by a lucky prod, eventually killed his man. +B-- was a fine-looking man and a good horseman. My late friend the +Baron de P--, so well known in Parisian circles, was second to the Frenchman +on this occasion. + +A friend of mine - certainly not of a quarrelsome turn, but considered +by his friends, on the contrary, as rather a good-natured man - had +three duels forced upon him in the course of a few weeks. He had formed +a liaison with a person whose extraordinary beauty got him into several +scrapes and disputes. In January 1 1817, a few days after this acquaintance +had been formed, Jack B--, well known at that time in the best society +in London, became madly in love with the fair lady, and attempted one +night to enter her private box at Drury Lane; this my friend endeavoured +to prevent; violent language was used, and a duel was the consequence. +The parties met a few miles from London, in a field close to the Uxbridge +Road, where B--, who was a hot-tempered man, did his best to kill my +friend; but, after the exchange of two shots, without injury to either +party, they were separated by their seconds. B-- was the son of Lady +Bridget B--, and the seconds were Payne, uncle to George Payne, and +Colonel Joddrell of the Guards. + +Soon after this incident, my friend accompanied the lady to Paris, where +they took up their residence at Meurice's, in the Rue de l'Echiquier. +The day after their arrival, they went out to take a walk in the Palais +Royal, and were followed by a half-pay officer of Napoleon's army, Colonel +D. - a notorious duellist, who observed to the people about him that +he was going to bully "un Anglais." This man was exceedingly rude in +his remarks, uttered in a loud voice; and after every sort of insult +expressed in words, he had the impudence to put his arm round the lady's +waist. My friend indignantly asked the colonel what he meant; upon +which the ruffian spat in my friend's face: but he did not get off with +impunity, for my friend, who had a crab stick in his hand, caught him +a blow on the side of the head, which dropped him. The Frenchman jumped +up, and rushed at the Englishman; but they were separated by the bystanders. +Cards were exchanged, and a meeting was arranged to take place the next +morning in the neighbourhood of Fassy. When my friend, accompanied +by his second, Captain H--, of the 18th, came upon the ground, he found +the colonel boasting of the number of officers of all nations whom he +had killed, and saying, "I'll now complete my list by killing an Englishman." +Mon petit tir aura bientot ton conte, car je tire fort bien." My friend +quietly said, "Je ne tire pas mal non plus," and took his place. The +colonel, who seems to have been a horrible ruffian, after a good deal +more swaggering and bravado, placed himself opposite, and, on the signal +being given, the colonel's ball went through my friend's whiskers, whilst +his ball pierced his adversary's heart, who fell dead without a groan. + +This duel made much noise in Paris, and the survivor left immediately +for Chantilly, where he passed some time. On his return to Paris, the +second of the man who had been killed, Commander P., insulted and challenged +my friend. A meeting was accordingly agreed upon, and pistols were again +the weapons used. Again my friend won the toss, and told his second, +Captain H--, that he would not kill his antagonist, though he richly +deserved death for wishing to take the life of a person who had never +offended him; but that he would give him a lesson which he should remember. +My friend accordingly shot his antagonist in the knee; and I remember +to have seen him limping about the streets of Paris twenty years after +this event. + +When the result of this second duel was known, not less than eleven +challenges from Bonapartists were received by the gentleman in question; +but any further encounters were put a stop to by the Minister of War, +or the Duc d'Angouleme (I forget which), who threatened to place the +officers under arrest if they followed up this quarrel any further. +When the news reached England, the Duke of York said that my friend +could not have acted otherwise than he had done in the first duel, considering +the gross provocation that he had received; but he thought it would +have been better if the second duel had been avoided. + +In the deeds I have narrated, the English seem to have had the advantage, +but many others took place, in which Englishmen were killed or wounded: +these I have not mentioned, as their details do not recur to my memory; +but I do not remember a single occasion on which Frenchmen were not +the aggressors. At a somewhat later period than this, the present Marquis +of H--, then Lord B--, had a duel with the son of the Bonapartist General +L--. General S-- was Lord B--'s second, and the principals exchanged +several shots without injury to either party. This duel, like the preceding, +originated with the Frenchman, who insulted the Englishman at the Theatre +Francais in the most unprovoked manner. At the present day our fiery +neighbours are much more amenable to reason, and if you are but civil, +they will be civil to you; duels consequently are of rare occurrence. +Let us hope that the frequency and the animus displayed in these hostile +meetings originated in national wounded vanity rather than in personal +animosity. + +In the autumn of 1821 I was living in Paris, when my old friend H--, +Adjutant of the 1st Foot Guards, called upon me, and requested that +I would be his second in a duel with Mr. N--, an officer in the same +regiment. After hearing what he had to say, and thinking I could serve +him, I consented. It was agreed by Captain F--, R.N., of Pitmore, Mr. +N--'s second, that the duel should take place in the Bois de Boulogne. +After an exchange of shots, Captain F. and myself put an end to the +duel. The cause of the quarrel was that Mr. N --, now Lord G--, proclaimed +in the presence of Captain H-- and other officers, that a lady, the +wife of a brother officer, was "what she ought not to be." When the +report reached the ear of the Colonel, H. R. H. the Duke of York +requested Mr. N-- to leave the regiment, or be brought to a court-martial; +and then the duel took place, happily without bloodshed. Both of the +officers, it need scarcely be stated, behaved with courage and coolness. + + +PISTOL SHOOTING + + +From 1820 to 1830 pistol shooting was not much practised. One evening, +in the Salon des Etrangers, I was introduced to General F--, a very +great duellist, and the terror of every regiment he commanded; he was +considered by Napoleon to be one of his best cavalry officers, but was +never in favour, in consequence of his duelling propensities. It was +currently reported that F--, in a duel with a very young officer lost +his toss, and his antagonist fired first at him; when, finding he had +not been touched, he deliberately walked close up to the young man, +saying, "Je plains ta mere," and shot him dead. But there were some +doubts of the truth of this story; and I trust, for the honour of humanity, +that it was either an invention or a gross exaggeration. + +The night I was introduced to F--, I was told to be on my guard, as +he was a dangerous character. He was very fond of practising with pistols, +and I frequently met him at Lapage's, the only place at that time where +gentlemen used to shoot. F--, in the year 1822, was very corpulent, +and wore an enormous cravat, in order, it was said, to hide two scars +received in battle. He was a very slow shot. + +The famous Junot, Governor-General of Paris, whom I never saw, was considered +to be the best shot in France. My quick shooting surprised the habitues +at Lapage's, where we fired at a spot chalked on the figure of a Cossack +painted on a board, and by word of command, "One - two - three." F--, +upon my firing and hitting the mark forty times in succession, at the +distance of twenty paces, shrieked out, "Tonnerre de Dieu, c'est magnifique!" +We were ever afterwards on good terms, and supped frequently together +at the Salon. At Manton's, on one occasion, I hit the wafer nineteen +times out of twenty. When my battalion was on duty at the Tower in +1819, it happened to be very cold, and much snow covered the parade +and trees. For our amusement it was proposed to shoot at the sparrows +in the trees from Lady Jane Grey's room; and it fell to my lot to bag +eleven, without missing one: this, I may say, without flattering myself, +was considered the best pistol-shooting ever heard of. + +Manton assigned as the reason why pistols had become the usual arms +for duels, the story (now universally laughed at) of Sheridan and Captain +Matthews fighting with swords on the ground, and mangling each other +in a frightful way. These combatants narrated their own story; but +its enormous exaggeration has been proved even on Sheridan's own evidence, +and the blood that poured from him seems merely to have been the excellent +claret of the previous night's debauch. The number of wounds said to +have been inflicted on each other was something so incredible that nothing +but the solemn asseverations of the parties could have gained belief; +and in those days Sheridan had not obtained that reputation for rodomontade +which he afterwards enjoyed by universal consent. + + +THE FAUBOURG ST. GERMAIN + + +The distinguishing characteristics of the residents of the "noble Faubourg," +as it was called at the time I am speaking of, were indomitable pride +and exclusiveness, with a narrow-minded ignorance of all beyond the +circle in which its members moved. In our day of comparative equality +and general civility, no one who has not arrived at my age, and lived +in Paris, can form any idea of the insolence and hauteur of the higher +classes of society in 1815. The glance of unutterable disdain which +the painted old duchesse of the Restoration cast upon the youthful belles +of the Chausse d'Antin, or the handsome widows of Napoleon's army of +heroes, defies description. Although often responded to by a sarcastic +sneer at the antediluvian charms of the emigree, yet the look of contempt +and disgust often sank deep into the victim's heart, leaving there germs +which showed themselves fifteen years later in the revolution of 1830. +In those days, this privileged class was surrounded by a charmed circle, +which no one could by any means break through. Neither personal attractions +nor mental qualifications formed a passport into that exclusive society; +to enter which the small nobility of the provinces, or the nouveau riche, +sighed in vain. It would have been easier for a young Guardsman to +make his way into the Convent des Oiseaux - the fashionable convent +in Paris - than for any of these parvenus to force an entrance into +the Faubourg St. Germain. + +One of the first acts which followed the Restoration of the Bourbons +was the grant of a pecuniary indemnity, amounting to a milliard, or +forty millions sterling, to be distributed amongst the emigres who had +lost fortunes or estates by their devotion to the royal family. They +had now, therefore, the means of receiving their friends, political +partisans, and foreigners, with more than usual splendour; and it must +be admitted that those who were thought worthy to be received were treated +like spoiled children, and petted and flattered to their heart's content. +In their own houses they were really des grands seigneurs, and quite +incapable of treating their invited guests with the insolence that became +the fashion among the Jewish parvenus during the reign of the "citizen +king." It is one thing to disdain those whom one does not think worthy +of our acquaintance, and another to insult those whom one has thought +proper to invite. + +In their own houses, the inhabitants of the Faubourg St. Germain were +scrupulously polite: even if some enterprising foreigner should have +got in surreptitiously, as long as he was under his host's roof he was +treated with perfect courtesy; though ignominiously "cut" for the remainder +of his days. All this was not very amiable; but the inhabitants of +the "noble Faubourg" were never distinguished for their amiability. +Their best characteristics were the undaunted courage with which they +met death upon the scaffold, and the cheerfulness and resignation with +which they ate the bitter bread of exile. In general, les grandes dames +were not remarkable for their personal attractions, nor for the elegance +of their appearance or dress. The galaxy of handsome women that formed +the court of the Emperor had perhaps sent beauty somewhat out of fashion; +for the high-born ladies who took their place were what we should call +dowdy, and had nothing distinguished in their appearance. Many of those +who belonged to the most ancient families were almost vulgar in outward +form and feature: their manner had a peculiar off-hand, easy style; +and they particularly excelled in setting down any unlucky person who +had happened to offend them. Their main object, at this time, was to +stand well at court, therefore they adapted themselves to circumstances, +and could be devout with the Dauphine and sceptical with Louis the Eighteenth. + +The men of the aristocracy of the Revolution were less clever and satirical +than the women; but, on the other hand, they had far more of the distinguished +bearing and graceful urbanity of the grands seigneurs of the olden time. +The emigre nobles would have gazed with unutterable horror at their +degenerate descendants of the present day; but these young, booted, +bearded, cigar-smoking scions of la jeune France would have run round +their courteous, but, perhaps, rather slow ancestors, in all the details +of daily life. + +The principal houses of reception in those days were those of the Montmorencys, +the Richelieus, Birons, Rohans, Goutaut Talleyrands, Beauffremonts, +Luxemburgs, Crillons, Choiseuls, Chabots, Fitzjames, Grammonts, Latours +de Pin, Coislins, and Maillys. Most of these mansions are now occupied +as public offices, or Jesuitical schools, or by foreign Ministers. +Those who are now supposed to be the great people of the Faubourg St. +Germain are nothing more than actors, who put on a motley dress and +appear before the public with the view of attracting that attention +to which they are not entitled; it is, therefore, an error to suppose +that the modern faubourg is anything like what it was during the days +of the Bourbons. At the present moment the only practical aid the inhabitants +of this locality can accord to the legitimist cause in Europe, is by +getting up subscriptions for the Papacy, and such exiled Sovereigns +as Francis II.; and, in order to do so, they generally address themselves +to married women and widows: in fact, it is from the purses of susceptible +females, many of whom are English, that donations are obtained for legitimacy +and Popery in distress. + +It is to be regretted that the most renowned and ancient families of +France have, in society and politics, yielded their places to another +class. That refinement of perception, sensitiveness, and gentle bearing, +which take three or four generations to produce, are no +longer the characteristics of Parisian society. The gilded saloons +of the Tuileries, and those magnificent hotels whose architects have +not been geniuses of art, but the children of Mammon, are occupied by +the Jew speculator, the political parasite, the clever schemer, and +those who - whilst following the fortune of the great man who rules +France - are nothing better than harpies. Most of these pretended devotees +of imperialism have, speaking figuratively, their portmanteaus perpetually +packed, ready for flight. The Emperor's good nature, as regards his +entourage, has never allowed him to get rid of men who, perhaps, ought +not to be seen so near the Imperial throne of France. The weakest feature +of Napoleon III.'s Government is the conspicuous presence of a few persons +in high places, whose cupidity is so extravagant that, in order to gratify +their lust of wealth, they would not hesitate, indirectly at least, +to risk a slur on the reputation of their master and benefactor, in +order to gain their own ends. + + +THE SALON DES ETRANGERS IN PARIS + + +When the allies entered Paris, after the Battle of Waterloo, the English +gentlemen sought, instinctively, something like a club. Paris, however, +possessed nothing of the sort; but there was a much more +dangerous establishment than the London clubs, namely, a rendezvous +for confirmed gamblers. The Salon des Etrangers was most gorgeously +furnished, provided with an excellent kitchen and wines, and was conducted +by the celebrated Marquis de Livry, who received the guests and did +the honours with a courtesy which made him famous throughout Europe. +The Marquis presented an extraordinary likeness to the Prince Regent +of England, who actually sent Lord Fife over to Paris to ascertain this +momentous fact. The play which took place in these saloons was frequently +of the most reckless character; large fortunes were often lost, the +losers disappearing, never more to be heard of. Amongst the English +habitues were the Hon. George T--, the late Henry Baring, Lord Thanet, +Tom Sowerby, Cuthbert, Mr. Steer, Henry Broadwood, and Bob Arnold. + +The Hon. George T--, who used to arrive from London with a very considerable +letter of credit expressly to try his luck at the Salon des Etrangers, +at length contrived to lose his last shilling at rouge et noir. When +he had lost everything he possessed in the world, he got up and exclaimed, +in an excited manner, "If I had Canova's Venus and Adonis from Alton +Towers, my uncle's country seat, it should be placed on the rouge, for +black has won fourteen times running!" + +The late Henry Baring was more fortunate at hazard than his countryman, +but his love of gambling was the cause of his being excluded from the +banking establishment. Col. Sowerby, of the Guards, was one of the +most inveterate players in Paris; and, as is frequently the case with +a fair player, a considerable loser. But, perhaps, the most incurable +gamester amongst the English was Lord Thanet, whose income was not less +than 50,000£. a year, every farthing of which he lost at play. Cuthbert +dissipated the whole of his fortune in like manner. In fact, I do not +remember any instance where those who spent their time in this den did +not lose all they possessed. + +The Marquis de L-- had a charming villa at Romainville, near Paris, +to which, on Sundays, he invited not only those gentlemen who were the +most prodigal patrons of his salon, but a number of ladies, who were +dancers and singers conspicuous at the opera; forming a society of the +strangest character, the male portion of which were bent on losing their +money, whilst the ladies were determined to get rid of whatever virtue +they might still have left. The dinners on these occasions were supplied +by the chef of the Salon des Etrangers, and were such as few renommes +of the kitchens of France could place upon the table. + +Amongst the constant guests was Lord Fife, the intimate friend of George +IV., with Mdlle. Noblet, a danseuse, who gave so much satisfaction to +the habitues of the pit at the opera, both in Paris and London. His +lordship spent a fortune upon her; his presents in jewels, furniture, +articles of dress, and money, exceeded 40,000£. In return for all this +generosity, Lord Fife asked nothing more than the lady's flattery and +professions of affection. + +Hall Standish was always to be seen in this circle; and his own hotel +in the Rue le Pelletier was often lighted up, and fetes given to the +theatrical and demi-monde. Standish died in Spain, leaving his gallery +of pictures to Louis Philippe. + +Amonst others who visited the Salon des Etrangers were Sir Francis Vincent, +Gooch, Green, Ball Hughes, and many others whose names I no longer remember. +Of foreigners the most conspicuous were Blucher, General Ormano, father-in-law +of Count Walewski, Pacto, and Clari, as well as most of the ambassadors +at the court of the Tuileries. As at Crockford's, a magnificent supper +was provided every night for all who thought proper to avail themselves +of it. The games principally played were rouge et noir and hazard; +the former producing an immense profit, for not only were the whole +of the expenses of this costly establishment defrayed by the winnings +of the bank, but a very large sum was paid annually to the municipality +of Paris. I recollect a young Irishman, Mr. Gough, losing a large fortune +at this tapis vert. After returning home about two A.M., he sat down +and wrote a letter, giving reasons as to why he was about to commit +suicide: these, it is needless to say, were simply his gambling reverses. +A pistol shot through the brain terminated his existence. Sir Francis +Vincent - a man of old family and considerable fortune - was another +victim of this French hell, who contrived to get rid of his magnificent +property, and then disappeared from society. + +In calling up my recollections of the Salon des Etrangers, some forty +years since, I see before me the noble form and face of the Hungarian +Count Hunyady, the chief gambler of the day, who created considerable +sensation in his time. He became tres a la mode: his horses, carriage, +and house were considered perfect, while his good looks were the theme +of universal admiration. There were ladies' cloaks "a la Huniade," whilst +the illustrious Borel, of the Rocher de Cancaile, named new dishes after +the famous Hungarian. Hunyady's luck for a long time was prodigious: +no bank could resist his attacks; and at one time he must have been +a winner of nearly two millions of francs. His manners were particularly +calm and gentlemanlike; he sat apparently unmoved, with his right hand +in the breast of his coat, whilst thousands depended upon the turning +of a card or the hazard of a die. His valet, however, confided to some +indiscreet friend that his nerves were not of such iron temper as he +would have made people believe, and that the count bore in the morning +the bloody marks of his nails, which he had pressed into his chest in +the agony of an unsuccessful turn of fortune. The streets of Paris +were at that time not very safe; consequently the Count was usually +attended to his residence by two gensdarmes, in order to prevent his +being attacked by robbers. Hunyady was not wise enough (what gamblers +are?) to leave Paris with his large winnings, but continued as usual +to play day and night. A run of bad luck set in against him, and he +lost not only the whole of the money he had won, but a very large portion +of his own fortune. He actually borrowed 50£. of the well-known Tommy +Garth - who was himself generally more in the borrowing than the lending +line - to take him back to Hungary. + + +THE DUCHESS DE BERRI AT MASS AT THE CHAPELLE ROYALE + + +I had the honour of being invited to an evening party at the Tuileries +in the winter of 1816, and was in conversation with the Countess de +l'Espinasse, when the Duchess did me the honour to ask me if I intended +going to St. Germain to hunt. I replied in the negative, not having +received an invitation; upon which the Duchess graciously observed that +if I would attend mass the following morning in the Royal Chapel, she +would manage it. Accordingly I presented myself there dressed in a black +coat and trousers and white neckcloth; but at the entrance, a huge Swiss +told me I could not enter the chapel without knee-buckles. At that +moment Alexandre Gerardin, the grand veneur, came to my assistance; +he spoke to the Duchess, who immediately gave instructions that Mr. +Gronow was to be admitted "sans culottes." The card for the hunt came; +but the time to get the uniform was so short, that I was prevented going +to St. Germain. At that time the fascinating Duchess de Berri was +the theme of admiration of everyone. All who could obtain admission +to the chapelle were charmed with the grace with which, on passing through +the happy group who had been fortunate enough to gain the privilege, +she cast her glance of recognition upon those who were honoured with +her notice. When again I had the honour of being in the presence of +the Duchess, she inquired whether the hunt amused me; and upon my telling +her that I had been unable to go, in consequence of the want of the +required uniform, the Duchess archly remarked "Ah! M. le Capitaine, +parceque vous n'avez pas jamais des culottes." + + +LORD WESTMORELAND + + +When I was presented at the Court of Louis XVIII., Lord Westmoreland, +the grandfather of the present lord, accompanied Sir Charles Stewart +to the Tuileries. On our arrival in the room where the King was, we +formed ourselves into a circle, when the King good-naturedly inquired +after Lady Westmoreland, from whom his lordship was divorced, and whether +she was in Paris. Upon this, the noble lord looked sullen, and refused +to reply to the question put by the King. His Majesty, however, repeated +it, when Lord Westmoreland hallooed out, in bad French, "Je ne sais +pas, je ne sais pas, je ne sais pas." Louis, rising, said, "Assez, +milord; assez, milord." + +On one occasion, Lord Westmoreland, who was Lord Privy Seal, being asked +what office he held, replied, "Le Chancelier est le grand sceau (Sot); +moi je suis le petit sceau d' Angleterre." On another occasion, he +wished to say "I would if I could, but I can't," and rendered it, "Je +voudrais si je coudrais, mais je ne cannais pas." + + +ALDERMAN WOOD + + +Among the many English who then visited Paris was Alderman Wood, who +had previously filled the office of Lord Mayor of London. He ordered +a hundred visiting cards, inscribing upon them, "Alderman Wood, feu +Lord Maire de Londres," which he had largely distributed amongst people +of rank - having translated the word "late" into "feu," which I need +hardly state means "dead." + + +THE OPERA + + +A few years after the restoration of the Bourbons, the opera was the +grand resort of all the fashionable world. Sostennes de la Rochefoucauld +was Minister of the Household, and his office placed him at the head +of all the theatres. M. de la Rochefoucauld was exceedingly polite +to our countrymen, and gave permission to most of our dandies to go +behind the scenes, where Bigottini, Fanny Bias, Vestris, Anatole, Paul, +Albert, and the other principal dancers, congregated. One of our countrymen, +having been introduced by M. de la Rochefoucauld to Mademoiselle Bigottini, +the beautiful and graceful dancer, in the course of conversation with +this gentleman, asked him in what part of the theatre he was placed; +upon which he replied, "Mademoiselle, dans un loge rotie," instead of +"grillee." The lady could not understand what he meant, until his introducer +explained the mistake, observing, "Les diables des Anglais pensent toujours +a leur Rosbif." + + +FANNY ELSSLER + + +In 1822 I saw this beautiful person for the first time. She was originally +one of the figurantes at the opera at Vienna, and was at this time about +fourteen years of age, and of delicate and graceful proportions. Her +hair was auburn, her eyes blue and large, and her face wore an expression +of great tenderness. Some years after the Duke of Reichstadt, the son +of the great Napoleon, was captivated with her beauty; in a word, he +became her acknowledged admirer, while her marvellous acting and dancing +drew around her all the great men of the German court. The year following +she went to Naples, where a brother of the King fell desperately in +love with her. Mademoiselle Elssler went soon afterwards to Paris, +where her wit electrified all the fashionable world, and her dancing +and acting in the Diable Boiteux made the fortune of the entrepreneur. +In London her success was not so striking; but her cachucha will long +be remembered, as one of the most exquisite exhibitions of female grace +and power ever seen at her Majesty's Theatre, and in expressiveness, +her pantomimic powers were unrivalled. + + +CHARLES X. AND LOUIS PHILIPPE + + +When the father of the present ex-King of Naples came to Paris during +the reign of Charles X., Louis Philippe, then Duke of Orleans, living +at the Palais Royal, gave a very grand fete to his royal cousin. I had +the honour to be one of the party invited, and witnessed an extraordinary +scene, which I think worth relating. About eleven o'clock, when the +rooms were crowded, Charles X. arrived, with a numerous suite. On entering, +he let fall his pocket-handkerchief - it was then supposed by accident; +upon this, Louis Philippe fell upon one knee and presented the handkerchief +to his Sovereign; who smiled and said, "Merci, mon cher; merci." This +incident was commented upon for many days, and several persons said +that the handkerchief was purposely thrown down to see whether Louis +Philippe would pick it up. + +At that period, the Orleans family were en mauvais odeur at the Tuileries, +and consequently, this little incident created considerable gossip among +the courtly quidnuncs. I remember that when Lord William Bentinck was +asked what he thought of the circumstance, he good-naturedly answered, +"The King most probably wanted to know how the wind blew." + +It was known that a large number of persons hostile to the court were +invited; and among these were Casimir Perier, the Dupins, Lafitte, Benjamin +Constant, and a host of others who a few years afterwards drove out +the eldest branch that occupied the throne to make way for Louis Philippe. + + +LORD THANET + + +The late Lord Thanet, celebrated for having been imprisoned in the Tower +for his supposed predilection for republicanism, passed much of his +time in Paris, particularly at the Salon des Etrangers. His lordship's +infatuation for play was such, that when the gambling-tables were closed, +he invited those who remained to play at chicken-hazard and ecarte; +the consequence was that, one night, he left off a loser of 120,000£. +When told of his folly and the probability of his having been cheated, +he exclaimed, "Then I consider myself lucky in not having lost twice +that sum!" + + +LORD GRANVILLE, THE BRITISH AMBASSADOR + + +Soon after Lord Granville's appointment, a strange occurrence took place +at one of the public gambling-houses. A colonel, on half-pay, in the +British service, having lost every farthing that he possessed, determined +to destroy himself, together with all those who were instrumental in +his ruin. Accordingly, he placed a canister full of fulminating powder +under the table, and set it on fire: it blew up, but fortunately no +one was hurt. The police arrested the colonel, and placed him in prison; +he was, however, through the humane interposition of our ambassador, +sent out of France as a madman. + + +MARSHAL BLUCHER + + +Marshal Blucher, though a very fine fellow, was a very rough diamond, +with the manners of a common soldier. On his arrival in Paris, he went +every day to the salon, and played the highest stakes at rouge et noir. +The salon, during the time that the marshal remained in Paris, was crowded +by persons who came to see him play. His manner of playing was anything +but gentlemanlike, and when he lost, he used to swear in German at everything +that was French, looking daggers at the croupiers. He generally managed +to lose all he had about him, also all the money his servant, who was +waiting in the ante-chamber, carried. I recollect looking attentively +at the manner in which he played; he would put his right hand into his +pocket, and bring out several rouleaus of Napoleons, and throw them +on the red or black. If he won the first coup, he would allow it to +remain; but when the croupier stated that the table was not responsible +for more than ten thousand francs, then Blucher would roar like a lion, +and rap out oaths in his native language, which would doubtless have +met with great success at Billingsgate, if duly translated: fortunately, +they were not heeded, as they were not understood by the lookers-on. + +At that period there were rumours - and reliable ones, too - that Blucher +and the Duke of Wellington were at loggerheads. The Prussians wanted +to blow up the Bridge of Jena; but the Duke sent a battalion of our +regiment to prevent it, and the Prussian engineers who were mining the +bridge were civilly sent away: this circumstance created some ill-will +between the chiefs. + +A sort of congress of the Emperors of Austria and Russia and the King +of Prussia, with Blucher and Wellington, met at the Hotel of Foreign +Affairs, on the Boulevard, when, after much ado, the Duke of Wellington +emphatically declared that if any of the monuments were destroyed he +would take the British army from Paris: this threat had the desired +effect. Nevertheless, Blucher levied contributions on the poor Parisians, +and his army was newly clothed. The Bank of France was called upon to +furnish him with several thousand pounds, which, it was said, were to +reimburse him for the money lost at play. This, with many other instances +of extortion and tyranny, was the cause of Blucher's removal, and he +took his departure by order of the King. + +I once saw a regiment of Prussians march down the Rue St. Honore when +a line of half-a-dozen hackney-coachmen were quietly endeavouring to +make their way in a contrary direction; suddenly some of the Prussian +soldiers left their ranks, and with the butt-end of their muskets knocked +the poor coachmen off their seats. I was in uniform, and felt naturally +ashamed at what I had seen: some Frenchmen came up to me and requested +me to report what I had witnessed to the Duke of Wellington; but, upon +my telling them it would be of no avail, they one and all said the English +ought to blush at having allies and friends capable of such wanton brutality. + +The fact is that the French had behaved so ill at Berlin, after the +Battle of Jena, in 1806, that the Prussians had sworn to be revenged, +if ever they had the opportunity to visit upon France the cruelties, +the extortion, insults, and hard usage their own capital had suffered; +and they kept their word. + +One afternoon, when upwards of a hundred Prussian officers entered the +galleries of the Palais Royal, they visited all the shops in turn, insulting +the women and striking the men, breaking the windows and turning everything +upside down: nothing, indeed, could have been more outrageous than their +conduct. When information was brought to Lord James Hay of what was +going on, he went out, and arrived just as a troop of French gensdarmes +were on the point of charging the Prussians, then in the garden. He +lost no time in calling out his men, and, placing himself between the +gensdarmes and the officers, said he should fire upon the first who +moved. The Prussians then came to him and said, "We had all vowed to +return upon the heads of the French in Paris the insults that they had +heaped upon our countrymen in Berlin; we have kept our vow, and we will +now retire." Nothing could equal the bitter hatred which existed, and +still exists, between the French and the Prussians. + + +JEW MONEY-LENDERS + + +One of the features of high society after the long war was a passion +for gambling; so universal was it that there are few families of distinction +who do not even to the present day retain unpleasant reminiscences of +the period. When people become systematic players, they are often obliged +to raise money at an exorbitant interest, and usually under such circumstances +fly to the Israelites. I have often heard players wish these people +in almost every uncomfortable quarter of the known and unknown worlds. +The mildness and civility with which the Christian in difficulties always +addresses the moneyed Israelite, contrast forcibly with the opprobrious +epithets lavished on him when the day for settlement comes. When a +man requires money to pay his debts of honour, and borrows from the +Jews, he knows perfectly well what he is doing; though one of the last +things which foolish people learn is how to trace their own errors to +their proper source. Hebrew money-lenders could not thrive if there +were no borrowers: the gambler brings about his own ruin. The characteristics +of the Jew are never more perceptible than when they come in contact +with gentlemen to ruin them. On such occasions, the Jew is humble, +supercilious, blunderingly flattering; and if he can become the agent +of any dirty work, is only too happy to be so, in preference +to a straightforward and honest transaction. No man is more vulgarly +insulting to those dependent upon him than the Jew, who invariably cringes +to his superiors; above all, he is not a brave man. It will be seen, +from these observations, what is my opinion of a class of traders who +in all parts of the world are sure to embrace what may be termed illicit +and illegitimate commerce. At the same time, I suspect that the Jew +simply avails himself of the weakness and vices of mankind, and will +continue in this line of business so long as imprudent and extravagant +humanity remains what it is. + +Two usurers, who obtained much notoriety from the high game which was +brought to them, were men known by the names of Jew King and Solomon. +These were of very different characters: King was a man of some talent, +and had good taste in the fine arts. He had made the peerage a complete +study, knew the exact position of everyone who was connected with a +coronet, the value of their property, how deeply the estates were mortgaged, +and what encumbrances weighed upon them. Nor did his knowledge stop +there: by dint of sundry kind attentions to the clerks of the leading +banking-houses, he was aware of the balances they kept; and the credit +attached to their names; so that, to the surprise of the borrower, he +let him into the secrets of his own actual position. He gave excellent +dinners, at which many of the highest personages of the realm were present; +and when they fancied that they were about to meet individuals whom +it would be upon their conscience to recognize elsewhere, were not a +little amused to find clients quite as highly placed as themselves, +and with purses quite as empty. King had a well-appointed house in +Clarges Street; but it was in a villa upon the banks of the Thames, +which had been beautifully fitted up by Walsh Porter in the Oriental +style, and which I believe is now the seat of one of the most favoured +votaries of the Muses, Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton, that his hospitalities +were most lavishly and luxuriously exercised. Here it was that Sheridan +told his host that he liked his table better than his multiplication +table; to which his host, who was not only witty, but often the cause +of wit in others, replied, "I know, Mr. Sheridan: your taste is more +for Jo-king than for Jew King," alluding to King, the actor's admirable +performance in Sheridan's School for Scandal. + +King kept a princely establishment, and a splendid equipage which he +made to serve as an advertisement of his calling. A yellow carriage, +with panels emblazoned with a well-executed shield and armorial bearings, +and drawn by two richly-caparisoned steeds, the Jehu on the box wearing, +according to the fashion of those days, a coat of many capes, a powdered +wig, and gloves a l'Henri Quatre, and two spruce footmen in striking +but not gaudy livery, with long canes in their hands, daily made its +appearance in the Park from four to seven in the height of the season. +Mrs. King was a fine-looking woman, and being dressed in the height +of fashion, she attracted innumerable gazers, who pronounced the whole +turn-out to be a work of refined taste, and worthy a man of "so much +principal and interest." + +It happened that during one of these drives, Lord William L., a man +of fashion, but, like other of the great men of the day, an issuer of +paper money discounted at high rates by the usurers, was thrown off +his horse. Mr. and Mrs. King immediately quitted the carriage and placed +the noble lord within. On this circumstance being mentioned in the +clubs, Brummell observed it was only "a Bill Jewly (duly) taken up +and honoured." + +Solomon indulged in many aliases, being known by the names of Goldsched, +Slowman, as well as by other noms de guerre; and he was altogether of +a different cast from King, being avaricious, distrustful, and difficult +to deal with. He counted upon his gains with all the grasping feverishness +of the miser; and owing to his great caution he had an immense command +of money, which the confidence of his brethren placed in his hands. +To the jewellers, the coachmakers, and the tailors, who were obliged +to give exorbitant accommodation to their aristocratic customers, and +were eventually paid in bills of an incredibly long date, Solomon was +of inestimable use. Hamlet, Houlditch, and other dependants upon the +nobility, were often compelled to seek his assistance. + +Hamlet, the jeweller, was once looked up to as the richest tradesman +at the West End. His shop at the corner of Cranbourne Alley exhibited +a profuse display of gold and silver plate, whilst in the jewel room +sparkled diamonds, amethysts, rubies, and other precious stones, in +every variety of setting. He was constantly called on to advance money +upon such objects, which were left in pawn only to be taken out on the +occasion of a great banquet, or when a court dress was to be worn. +His gains were enormous, though it was necessary to give long credit; +and his bills for twenty or thirty thousand pounds were eagerly discounted. +In fact, he was looked upon as a second Croesus, or a Crassus, who could +have bought the Roman empire; and his daughter's hand was sought in +marriage by peers. But all at once the mighty bubble collapsed. He +had advanced money to the Duke of York, and had received as security +property in Nova Scotia, consisting chiefly of mines, which, when he +began to work them, turned out valueless, after entailing enormous expense. +Loss upon loss succeeded, and in the end bankruptcy. I have even heard +that this man, once so envied for his wealth, died the inmate of an almshouse. + +Some persons of rank, tempted by the offers of these usurers, lent their +money to them at a very high interest. A lady of some position lent +a thousand pounds to King, on the promise of receiving annually 15 per +cent.; which he continued to pay with the utmost regularity. Her son +being in want of money applied for a loan of a thousand pounds, which +King granted at the rate of 80 per cent.; lending him of course his +mother's money. In a moment of tenderness the young man told his tale +to her, when she immediately went to King and upbraided him for not +making her a party to his gains, and demanded her money back. King +refused to return it, saying that he had never engaged to return the +principal; and dared her to take any proceedings against him, as, being +a married woman, she had no power over the money. She, however, acknowledged +it to her husband, obtained his forgiveness, and after threats of legal +interference, King was compelled to refund the money, besides losing +much of his credit and popularity by the transaction. + + +LORD ALVANLEY + + +To Lord Alvanley was awarded the reputation, good or bad, of all the +witticisms in the clubs after the abdication of the throne of dandyism +by Brummell; who, before that time, was always quoted as the sayer of +good things, as Sheridan had been some time before. Lord Alvanley had +the talk of the day completely under his control, and was the arbiter +of the school for scandal in St. James's. A bon mot attributed to him +gave rise to the belief that Solomon caused the downfall and disappearance +of Brummell; for on some friends of the prince of dandies observing +that if he had remained in London something might have been done for +him by his old associates, Alvanley replied, "He has done quite right +to be off: it was Solomon's judgment." + +When Sir Lumley Skeffington, who had been a lion in his day - and whose +spectacle, the Sleeping Beauty, produced at a great expense on the stage, +had made him looked up to as deserving all the blandishments of fashionable +life - re-appeared some years after his complete downfal and seclusion +in the bench, he fancied that by a very gay external appearance he would +recover his lost position; but he found his old friends very shy of +him. Alvanley being asked, on one occasion, who that smart-looking +individual was, answered, "It is a second edition of the Sleeping Beauty +bound in calf, richly gilt, and illustrated by many cuts." + +One of the gay men of the day, named Judge, being incarcerated in the +Bench, some one observed he believed it was the first instance of a +Judge reaching the bench without being previously called to the bar; +to which Alvanley replied, "Many a bad judge has been taken from the +bench and placed at the bar." He used to say that Brummell was the +only Dandelion that flourished year after year in the hot-bed of the +fashionable world: he had taken root. Lions were generally annual, but +Brummell was perennial, and quoted a letter from Walter Scott: "If you +are celebrated for writing verses, or for slicing cucumbers, for being +two feet taller, or two feet less, than any other biped, for acting +plays when you should be whipped at school, or for attending schools +and institutions when you should be preparing for your grave, your notoriety +becomes a talisman, an 'open sesame,' which gives way to everything, +till you are voted a bore, and discarded for a new plaything." This +appeared in a letter from Walter Scott to the Earl of Dalkeith, when +he himself, Belzoni, Master Betty the Roscius, and old Joseph Lancaster, +the schoolmaster, were the lions of the season, and were one night brought +together by my indefatigable old friend, Lady Cork, who was "the Lady +of Lyons" of that day. + + +GENERAL PALMER + + +This excellent man had the last days of his life embittered +by the money-lenders. He had commenced his career surrounded by every +circumstance that could render existence agreeable; fortune, in his +early days, having smiled most benignantly on him. His father was a +man of considerable ability, and was to the past generation what Rowland +Hill is in the present day - the great benefactor of correspondents. +He first proposed and carried out the mail-coach system; and letters, +instead of being at the mercy of postboys, and a private speculation +in many instances, became the care of Government, and were transmitted +under its immediate direction. + +During the lifetime of Mr. Palmer, the reward due to him for his suggestions +and his practical knowledge was denied; and he accordingly went to Bath, +and became the manager and proprietor of the theatre, occasionally treading +the boards himself, for which his elegant deportment and good taste +eminently qualified him. He has often been mistaken for Gentleman Palmer, +whose portrait is well drawn in the Memoir of Sheridan by Dr. Sigmond, +prefixed to Bohn's edition of Sheridan's plays. Mr. Palmer was successful +in his undertaking, and at his death, his son found himself the inheritor +of a handsome fortune, and became a universal favourite in Bath. + +The corporation of that city, consisting of thirty apothecaries, were, +in those borough-mongering days, the sole electors to the House of Commons, +and finding young Palmer hospitable, and intimate with the Marquis of +Bath and Lord Camden, and likewise desiring for themselves and their +families free access to the most agreeable theatre in England, returned +him to Parliament. He entered the army and became a conspicuous officer +in the 10th Hussars, which, being commanded by the Prince Regent, led +him at once into Carlton House, the Pavilion at Brighton, and consequently +into the highest society of the country; for which his agreeable manners, +his amiable disposition, and his attainments, admirably qualified him. +His fortune was sufficiently large for all his wants; but, unfortunately, +as it turned out, the House of Commons voted to him, as the representative +of his father, 100,000£., which he was desirous of laying out to advantage. + +A fine opportunity, as he imagined, had presented itself to him; for, +in travelling in the diligence from Lyons to Paris, a journey then requiring +three days, he met a charming widow, who told a tale that had not only +a wonderful effect upon his susceptible heart, but upon his amply-filled +purse. She said her husband, who had been the proprietor of one of +the finest estates in the neighbourhood of Bordeaux, was just dead, +and that she was on her way to Paris to sell the property, that it might +be divided, according to the laws of France, amongst the family. Owing, +however, to the absolute necessity of forcing a sale, that which was +worth an enormous sum would realize one-quarter only of its value. +She described the property as one admirably fitted for the production +of wine; that it was, in fact, the next estate to the Chateau Lafitte, +and would prove a fortune to any capitalist. The fascinations of this +lady, and the temptation of enormous gain to the speculator, impelled +the gallant colonel to offer his services to relieve her +from her embarrassment; and by the time the diligence arrived in Paris, +he had become the proprietor of a fine domain, which was soon irrevocably +fixed on him by the lady's notary, in return for a large sum of money: +which, had the colonel proved a man of business, would no doubt have +been amply repaid, and might have become the source of great wealth. + +Palmer, however, conscious of his inability, looked around him for an +active agent, and believed he had found one in a Mr. Gray, a man of +captivating manners and good connexions, but almost as useless a person +as the General himself. Fully confident in his own abilities, Gray +had already been concerned in many speculations, not one of which had +ever succeeded, but all had led to the demolition of large fortunes. +Plausible in his address, and possessing many of those superficial qualities +that please the multitude, he appeared to be able to secure for the +claret - which was the production of the estate - a large clientele. +Palmer's claret, under his auspices, began to be talked of in the clubs; +and the bon vivant was anxious to secure a quantity of this highly-prized +wine. The patronage of the Prince Regent was considered essential, +who, with his egotistical good nature, and from a kindly feeling for +Palmer, gave a dinner at Carlton House, when a fair trial was to be +given to his claret. A select circle of gastronomes was to be present, +amongst whom was Lord Yarmouth, well known in those days by the appellation +of "Red-herrings," from his rubicund whiskers, hair, and face, and from +the town of Yarmouth deriving its principal support from the importation +from Holland of that fish; Sir Benjamin Bloomfield, Sir William Knighton, +and Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, were also of the party. The wine was produced, +and was found excellent, and the spirits of the party ran high; the +light wine animating them without intoxication. The Prince was delighted, +and, as usual upon such occasions, told some of his best stories, quoted +Shakspeare, and was particularly happy upon the bouquet of the wine +as suited "to the holy Palmer's kiss." + +Lord Yarmouth alone sat in moody silence, and, on being questioned as to the +cause, replied that whenever he dined at his Royal Highness's table, he drank +a claret which he much preferred - that which was furnished by Carbonell. The +Prince immediately ordered a bottle of this wine; and to give them an +opportunity of testing the difference, he desired that some anchovy sandwiches +should be served up. Carbonell's wine was placed upon the table: it was a +claret made expressly for the London market, well-dashed with Hermitage, and +infinitely more to the taste of the Englishman than the delicately-flavoured +wine they had been drinking. The banquet terminated in the Prince declaring +his own wine superior to that of Palmer's, and suggesting that he should +try some experiments on his estate to obtain a better wine. Palmer +come from Carlton House much mortified. On Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt attempting +to console him, and saying that it was the anchovies that had spoiled +the taste of the connoisseurs, the general said loudly enough to be +heard by Lord Yarmouth, "No; it was the confounded red herrings." A +duel was very nearly the consequence. + +General Palmer, feeling it his duty to follow the advice of the Prince, +rooted out his old vines, planted new ones, tried all sorts of experiments +at an immense cost, but with little or no result. He and his agent, +in consequence, got themselves into all sorts of difficulties, mortgaged +the property, borrowed largely, and were at last obliged to have recourse +to usurers, to life assurances, and every sort of expedient to raise +money. The theatre at Bath was sold, the Reform in Parliament robbed +him of his seat, and at last he and his agent became ruined men. A subscription +would have been raised to relieve him, but he preferred ending his days +in poverty to living upon the bounty of his friends. He sold his commission, +and was plunged in the deepest distress; while the accumulation of debt +to the usurers became so heavy, that he was compelled to pass through +the Insolvent Court. Thus ended the career of a man who had been courted +in society, idolized in the army, and figured as a legislator for many +years. His friends, of course, fell off, and he was to be seen a mendicant +in the streets of London - shunned where he once was adored. Gray, +his agent, became equally involved; but, marrying a widow with some +money, he was enabled to make a better fight. Eventually, however, +he became a prey to the money-lender, and his life ended under circumstances +distressing to those who had known him in early days. + + +"MONK" LEWIS + +One of the most agreeable men of the day was "Monk" Lewis. As the author +of the Monk and the Tales of Wonder, he not only found his way into +the best circles, but had gained a high reputation in the literary world. +His poetic talent was undoubted, and he was intimately connected with +Walter Scott in his ballad researches. His Alonzo the Brave and the +Fair Imogene was recited at the theatres, and wherever he went he found +a welcome reception. His West Indian fortune and connections, and his +seat in Parliament, gave him access to all the aristocratic circles; +from which, however, he was banished upon the appearance of the fourth +and last dialogue of the Pursuits of Literature. Had a thunderbolt +fallen upon him, he could not have been more astonished than he was +by the onslaught of Mr. Matthias, which led to his ostracism from fashionable +society. + +It is not for me to appreciate the value of this satirical poem, which +created such an extraordinary sensation, not only in the fashionable, +but in the political world; I, however, remember that whilst at Canning's, +at the Bishop of London's, and at Gifford's, it was pronounced the most +classical and spirited production that had ever issued from the press, +it was held up at Lord Holland's, at the Marquis of Lansdowne's, and +at Brookes's, as one of the most spiteful and ill-natured satires that +had ever disgraced the literary world; and one which no talent or classic +lore could ever redeem. Certain it is, that Matthias fell foul of poor +"Monk" Lewis for his romance: obscenity and blasphemy were the charges +laid at his door; he was acknowledged to be a man of genius and fancy, +but this added only to his crime, to which was superadded that of being +a very young man. The charges brought against him cooled his friends +and heated his enemies; the young ladies were forbidden to speak to +him, matrons even feared him, and from being one of the idols of the +world, he became one of the objects of its disdain. Even his father +was led to believe that his son had abandoned the paths of virtue, and +was on the high road to ruin. + +"Monk" Lewis, unable to stand against the outcry thus raised against +him, determined to try the effects of absence, and took his departure +for the island in which his property was; but unfortunately for those +who dissented from the ferocious judgment that was passed upon him, +and for those who had discrimination enough to know that after all there +was nothing very objectionable in his romance, and felt assured that +posterity would do him justice, this amiable and kind-hearted man died +on his passage out; leaving a blank in one variety of literature which +has never been filled up. + +The denunciation was not followed by any other severe criticism; but +editors have, in compliance with the insinuations of Matthias, omitted +the passages which he pointed out as objectionable, so that the original +text is seldom met with. + +"Monk" Lewis had a black servant, affectionately attached to his master; +but so ridiculously did this servant repeat his master's expressions, +that he became the laughing-stock of all his master's friends: Brummell +used often to raise a hearty laugh at Carlton House by repeating witticisms +which he pretended to have heard from Lewis's servant. Some of these +were very stale; yet they were considered so good as to be repeated +at the clubs, greatly adding to the reputation of the Beau as a teller +of good things. "On one occasion," said Brummell, "I called to inquire +after a young lady who had sprained her ancle; Lewis, on being asked +how she was, had said in the black's presence, 'The doctor has seen +her, put her legs straight, and the poor chicken is doing well.' The +servant, therefore, told me, with a mysterious and knowing look, 'Oh, +sir, the doctor has been here; she has laid eggs, and she and the chickens +are doing well.'" + +Such extravagances in those days were received as the essence of wit, +and to such stories did the public give a willing ear, repeating them +with unwearying zest. Even Sheridan's wit partook of this character, +making him the delight of the Prince, who ruled over the fashionable +world, and whose approbation was sufficient to give currency to anything, +however ludicrous and absurd. + + +SIR THOMAS TURTON + + +There is a pleasure in recalling to memory even the school-boy pranks +of men who make a figure in the world. The career of Turton promised +to be a brilliant one; and had he not offended against the moral feeling +of the country, and lost his position, he would have mounted to the +highest step in the ladder of fortune. At Eton he showed himself a +dashing and a daring boy, and was looked upon by Dr. Goodall, the then +head master, as one of his best classical scholars; by his schoolfellows +he was even more highly regarded, being the acknowledged "cock of the +school." Amongst the qualities that endeared him to them was a fearlessness +which led him into dangers and difficulties, from which his pluck only +could extricate him. He was a determined poacher: not one of the skulking +class, but of a daring that led him to exert his abilities in Windsor +Park itself; where he contrived to bag game, in spite of the watchfulness +of the keepers and the surveillance of the well-paid watchers of the +night. On one occasion; however, by some unlucky chance, tidings of +his successes reached the ears of the royal gamekeeper, who formed a +plan by which to entrap him; and so nearly were they pouncing upon Turton +that he was obliged to take to his heels and fly, carrying with him +a hare which he had caught. The keepers followed close upon his heels +until they came to the Thames, into which Turton plunged, and, still +holding his prize by his teeth, swam to the other side; to the astonishment +and dismay of his pursuers, who had no inclination for a cold bath: +their mortification was great at seeing Turton safely landed on the +other side. He reached the college in safety; and the hare served for +the enjoyment of merry friends. + +Turton's history in after life I will not pursue; but must express my +regret that he threw away golden opportunities of showing his love for +classic lore, and his ability to meet the difficulties of life, in the +same bold way in which he swam the Thames and baffled the Windsor gamekeepers. + + +GEORGE SMYTHE, THE LATE LORD STRANGFORD + + +This is another friend to whom I am pleased to pay the tribute of a +reminiscence, and who, if he was not as well known as most of those +I have spoken of, was yet highly prized by many of the most distinguished +persons, and formed one of a circle that had great influence in England. +Being the son of the well-known Lord Strangford, the translator of Camoens, +he had a first place in aristocratic society, and had he not given himself +up to indulgences and amusements, might have reached the rank of statesman. +The late Lord Strangford was distinguished by those external qualifications +which are everywhere acceptable; his manners were polished and easy, +his conversation elegant and witty, and these, added to great personal +attractions, gave him a charm which was generally felt. Disraeli, Sir +Edward Bulwer Lytton, and the leading men of the day, were his associates. +When Lord Aberdeen became Minister for Foreign Affairs he selected George +Smythe as under secretary; in which capacity he acquitted himself with +great ability. He could not, however, act under Lord Palmerston, and +rather than do so gave up his position. He did not long survive, but +died very young; just as he was beginning to learn the value of his +rare abilities, and had ascertained how best they might have been of +use to his country. + + +THE HONOURABLE GEORGE TALBOT + + +I have a very vivid recollection of George Talbot, a brother of the +late Earl of Shrewsbury, and who was a fashionable man about town, of +whom there are many anecdotes in circulation. The only one that took +my fancy was related to me in Paris, where he was as usual in the midst +of the gayest of the gay, recklessly spending his money, and oftentimes +resorting for resources to the gambling-table, where at last he was +thoroughly pigeoned. + +Talbot had tried in vain all the usual means of recruiting his empty +purse. Being a Roman Catholic, like most of the members of one of the +oldest families in Great Britain, he was a regular attendant upon the +ceremonies of his Church, and acquainted with all the clergy in Paris; +so he took the resolution of going to his confessor, unburdening his +conscience, and at the same time seeking counsel from the holy father, +as to the best way of raising the wind. After entering minutely into +his condition, and asking the priest how he could find funds to pay +his debts and take him home, the confessor seemed touched by his tale +of woe, and after much apparent consideration recommended him to trust +in Providence. Talbot seemed struck with such sensible advice, and +promised to call again in a few days. This second visit was made in +due course; he again mourned over his condition, and requested the priest's +advice and assistance. His story was listened to as before, with much +commiseration, but he was again recommended to trust in Providence. +Talbot came away quite crest-fallen, and evidently with little hope +of any immediate relief. After the lapse of a few days, however, he +appeared again before his confessor, apparently much elated, and invited +the worthy abbe to dine with him at the Rocher du Cancale. This invitation +was gladly accepted, the holy father not doubting but that he should +have all the delicacies in the land, to which, in common with the rest +of the clergy, he had no objection; nor was he disappointed. The dinner +was recherche; the best the establishment could furnish was placed before +them, and most heartily and lovingly did the worthy abbe devote himself +to what was offered. At the end of the repast the carte a payer was +duly furnished; but what was the astonishment of the reverend guest +when Talbot declared that his purse was completely au sec, and that +it had been a long time empty; but that upon this occasion, as upon +all others, he trusted, as the abbe had advised him, in Providence. +The Abbe Pecheron, recovering from his surprise, and being of a kind +and generous disposition, laughed heartily at Talbot's impudence, and +feeling that he had deserved this rebuke pulled out his purse, paid +for the dinner, and did what he should have done at first - wrote to +the members of Talbot's family, and obtained for him such assistance +as enabled him to quit Paris and return home, where he afterwards led +a more sober life. + + +A DINNER AT SIR JAMES BLAND BURGES'S, IN LOWER BROOK STREET; AUTUMN, 1815 + +I was once invited to dinner by Sir James Burges, father of my friend, +Captain Burges, of the Guards: it was towards the end of the season +1815. I there met, to my great delight, Lord Byron and Sir Walter Scott; +and amongst the rest of the company were Lord Caledon, and Croker, the +Secretary to the Admiralty. Sir James had been private secretary to +Pitt at the time of the French Revolution, and had a fund of curious +anecdotes about everything and everybody of note at the end of the last +century. I remember his telling us the now generally received story +of Pitt dictating a King's speech off-hand - then a more difficult task +than at the present day - without the slightest hesitation; this speech +being adopted by his colleagues nearly word for word as it was written down. + +Walter Scott was quite delightful, appearing full of fire and animation, +and told some interesting anecdotes connected with his early life in +Scotland. I remember his proving himself, what would have been called +in the olden times he delighted to portray, "a stout trencher-man." +Nor were his attentions confined by any means to the eatables; on the +contrary, he showed himself worthy to have made a third in the famous +carousal in Ivanhoe, between the Black Knight and the Holy Clerk of +Copmanhurst. + +Byron, whom I had before seen at the shooting galleries and elsewhere, +was then a very handsome man, with remarkably fine eyes and hair; but +was, as usual, all show-off and affectation. I recollect his saying +that he disliked seeing women eat, or to have their company at dinner, +from a wish to believe, if possible, in their more ethereal nature; +but he was rallied into avowing that his chief dislike to their presence +at the festive board arose from the fact of their being helped first, +and consequently getting all the wings of the chickens, whilst men had +to be content with the legs or other parts. Byron, on this occasion, +was in great good humour, and full of boyish and even boisterous mirth. + +Croker was also agreeable, notwithstanding his bitter and sarcastic +remarks upon everything and everybody. The sneering, ill-natured expression +of his face, struck me as an impressive contrast to the frank and benevolent +countenance of Walter Scott. + +I never assisted at a more agreeable dinner. According to the custom +of the day, we sat late; the poets, statesmen, and soldiers, all drank +an immense quantity of wine, and I for one felt the effects of it next +day. Walter Scott gave one or two recitations, in a very animated manner, +from the ballads that he had been collecting, which delighted his auditory; +and both Lord Byron and Croker added to the hilarity of the evening +by quotations from, and criticisms on the more prominent writers of +the period. + + +LORD BYRON + + +I knew very little of Lord Byron personally, but lived much with two +of his intimate friends, Scrope Davis and Wedderburn Webster; from whom +I frequently heard many anecdotes of him. I regret that I remember +so few; and wish that I had written down those told me by poor Scrope +Davis, one of the most agreeable men I ever met. + +When Byron was at Cambridge, he was introduced to Scrope Davis by their +mutual friend, Matthews, who was afterwards drowned in the river Cam. +After Matthews's death, Davis became Byron's particular friend, and +was admitted to his rooms at all hours. Upon one occasion he found +the poet in bed with his hair en papillote, upon which Scrope cried, +"Ha, ha! Byron, I have at last caught you acting the part of the Sleeping +Beauty." + +Byron, in a rage, exclaimed, "No, Scrope; the part of a d----d fool, +you should have said." + +"Well, then, anything you please; but you have succeeded admirably in +deceiving your friends, for it was my conviction that your hair curled +naturally." + +"Yes, naturally, every night," returned the poet; "but do not, my dear +Scrope, let the cat out of the bag, for I am as vain of my curls as +a girl of sixteen." + +When in London, Byron used to go to Manton's shooting-gallery, in Davis +street, to try his hand, as he said, at a wafer. Wedderburn Webster +was present when the poet, intensely delighted with his own skill, boasted +to Joe Manton that he considered himself the best shot in London. "No, +my lord," replied Manton," not the best; but your shooting, to-day, +was respectable;" upon which Byron waxed wroth, and left the shop in +a violent passion. + +Lords Byron, Yarmouth, Pollington, Mountjoy, Walliscourt, Blandford, +Captain Burges, Jack Bouverie, and myself, were in 1814, and for several +years afterwards, amongst the chief and most constant frequenters of +this well-known shooting-gallery, and frequently shot at the wafer for +considerable sums of money. Manton was allowed to enter the betting +list, and he generally backed me. On one occasion, I hit the wafer +nineteen times out of twenty. + +Byron lived a great deal at Brighton, his house being opposite the Pavilion. +He was fond of boating, and was generally accompanied by a lad, who +was said to be a girl in boy's clothes. This report was confirmed to +me by Webster, who was then living at Brighton. The vivid description +of the page in Lara, no doubt, gave some plausibility to this often-told +tale. I myself witnessed the dexterous manner in which Byron used to +get into his boat; for, while standing on the beach, I once saw him +vault into it with the agility of a harlequin, in spite of his lame foot. + +On one occasion, whilst his lordship was dining with a few of his friends +in Charles Street, Pall Mall, a letter was delivered to Scrope Davis, +which required an immediate answer. Scrope, after reading its contents, +handed it to Lord Byron. It was thus worded:- + +"MY DEAR SCROPE, - Lend me 500£. for a few days; the funds are shut for +the dividends, or I would not have made this request. + +- - - - - - - - - - "G. BRUMMELL." + +The reply was:- + +"My DEAR BRUMMELL, - All my money is locked up in the funds. + +- - - - - - - - - - "SCROPE DAVIS." + +This was just before Brummell's escape to the Continent. + +I have frequently asked Scrope Davis his private opinion of Lord Byron, +and invariably received the same answer - that he considered Lord Byron +very agreeable and clever, but vain, overbearing, conceited, suspicious, +and jealous. Byron hated Palmerston, but liked Peel, and thought that +the whole world ought to be constantly employed in admiring his poetry +and himself: he never could write a poem or a drama without making himself +its hero, and he was always the subject of his own conversation. + +During one of Henry Hobhouse's visits to Byron, at his villa near Genoa, +and whilst they were walking in the garden, his lordship suddenly turned +upon his guest, and, apropos of nothing, exclaimed, "Now, I know, Hobhouse, +you are looking at my foot." Upon which Hobhouse kindly replied, "My +dear Byron, nobody thinks of or looks at anything but your head." + + +SHELLEY + + +Shelley, the poet, cut off at so early an age; just when his great poetical +talents had been matured by study and reflection, and when he probably +would have produced some great work, was my friend and associate at +Eton. He was a boy of studious and meditative habits, averse to all +games and sports, and a great reader of novels and romances. He was +a thin, slight lad, with remarkably lustrous eyes, fine hair, and a +very peculiar shrill voice and laugh. His most intimate friend at Eton +was a boy named Price, who was considered one of the best classical +scholars amongst us. At his tutor, Bethell's, where he lodged, he attempted +many mechanical and scientific experiments. By the aid of a common +tinker, he contrived to make something like a steam-engine, +which, unfortunately, one day suddenly exploded; to the great consternation +of the neighbourhood and to the imminent danger of a severe flogging +from Dr. Reate. + +Soon after leaving school, and about the year 1810, he came, in a state +of great distress and difficulty, to Swansea, when we had an opportunity +of rendering him a service; but we never could ascertain what had brought +him to Wales, though we had reason to suppose it was some mysterious +affaire du coeur. + +The last time I saw Shelley was at Genoa, in 1822, sitting on the sea-shore, +and, when I came upon him, making a true poet's meal of bread and fruit; +He at once recognized me, jumped up, and appearing greatly delighted, +exclaimed, "Here you see me at my old Eton habits; but instead of the +green fields for a couch, I have here the shores of the Mediterranean. +It is very grand, and very romantic. I only wish I had some of the +excellent brown bread and butter we used to get at Spiers's: but I was +never very fastidious in my diet." Then he continued, in a wild and +eccentric manner: "Gronow, do you remember the beautiful Martha, the +Hebe of Spiers's? She was the loveliest girl I ever saw, and I loved +her to distraction." + +Shelley was looking careworn and ill; and, as usual, was very carelessly +dressed. He had on a large and wide straw hat, his long brown hair, +already streaked with grey, flowing in large masses from under it, and +presented a wild and strange appearance. + +During the time I sat by his side he asked many questions about myself +and many of our schoolfellows; but on my questioning him in turn about +himself, his way of life, and his future plans, he avoided entering +into any explanation: indeed, he gave such short and evasive answers, +that, thinking my inquisitiveness displeased him, I rose to take my +leave. I observed that I had not been lucky enough to see Lord Byron +in any of my rambles, to which he replied, "Byron is living at his villa, +surrounded by his court of sycophants; but I shall shortly see him at +Leghorn." We then shook hands. I never saw him again; for he was drowned +shortly afterwards, with his friend, Captain Williams, and his body +was washed ashore near Via Reggio. Every one is familiar with the romantic +scene which took place on the sea-shore when the remains of my poor +friend and Captain Williams were burnt, in the presence of Byron and +Trelawney, in the Roman fashion. His ashes were gathered into an urn, +and buried in the Protestant cemetery at Rome. He was but twenty-nine +years of age at his death. + + + +ROBERT SOUTHEY, THE POET + + +In the year 1803, my father received a letter of introduction from Mr. +Rees, of the well-known firm of Longman, Paternoster Row, presenting +Robert Southey, the poet, to him. He came into Wales with the hope +of finding a cottage to reside in. Accordingly, a cavalcade was formed, +consisting of Mr. W. Gwynne, the two brothers Southey, my father, and +myself, and we rode up the Valley of Neath to look at a cottage about +eight miles from the town. The poet, delighted with the scenery and +situation, decided upon taking it; but the owner, unfortunately for +the honour of Welshmen, actually declined to let it to Robert Southey, +fearing that a poet could not find security for the small annual rent +of twenty-five pounds. This circumstance led the man of letters, who +eventually became one of the most distinguished men of his day, to seek +a home elsewhere, and the Lakes were at length chosen as his residence. +Probably the picturesque beauties of Cumberland compensated the Laureate +for the indignity put upon him by the Welshman. + +An act of Vandalism perpetrated in the same Vale of Neath, and reflecting +no honour on my countrymen, deserves here to be noted with reprobation. +A natural cascade, called Dyllais, which was so beautiful as to excite +the admiration of travellers, was destroyed by an agent to Lord Jersey, +the proprietor of the estate, in order to build a few cottages and the +lock of a canal. The rock down which this beautiful cascade had flowed +from the time of the Flood, and which had created a scene of beauty +universally admired, was blown up with gunpowder by this man, who could +probably appreciate no more beautiful sight than that which presents +itself from a window in Gray's or Lincoln's Inn, of which he was a member. + + +CAPTAIN HESSE, FORMERLY OF THE 18TH HUSSARS + + +One of my most intimate friends was the late Captain Hesse, generally +believed to be a son of the Duke of York, by a German lady of rank. +Though it is not my intention to disclose certain family secrets of +which I am in possession, I may, nevertheless, record some circumstances +connected with the life of my friend, which were familiar to a large +circle with whom I mixed. Hesse, in early youth, lived with the Duke +and Duchess of York; he was treated in such a manner by them as to indicate +an interest in him by their Royal Highnesses which could scarcely be +attributed to ordinary regard, and was gazetted a cornet in the 18th +Hussars at seventeen years of age. Shortly afterwards, he went to Spain, +and was present in all the battles in which his regiment was engaged; +receiving a severe wound in the wrist at the battle of Vittoria. When +this became known in England, a royal lady wrote to Lord Wellington, +requesting that he might be carefully attended to; and, at the same +time, a watch, with her portrait, was forwarded, which was delivered +to the wounded Hussar by Lord Wellington himself. When he had sufficiently +recovered, Hesse returned to England, and passed much of his time at +Oatlands, the residence of the Duchess of York; he was also honoured +with the confidence of the Princess Charlotte and her mother, Queen Caroline. + +Many delicate and important transactions were conducted through the +medium of Captain Hesse; in fact, it was perfectly well known that he +played a striking part in many scenes of domestic life which I do not +wish to reveal. I may, however, observe that the Prince Regent sent +the late Admiral Lord Keith to Hesse's lodgings, who demanded, in his +Royal Highness's name, the restitution of the watch and letters which +had been sent him when in Spain. After a considerable amount of hesitation, +the Admiral obtained what he wanted the following day; whereupon Lord +Keith assured him that the Prince Regent would never forget so great +a mark of confidence, and that the heir to the throne would ever afterwards +be his friend. I regret to say, from personal knowledge, that, upon +this occasion the Prince behaved most ungratefully and unfeelingly; +for, after having obtained all he wanted, he positively refused to receive +Hesse at Carlton House. + +Hesse's life was full of singular incidents. He was a great friend +of the Queen of Naples, grandmother of the ex-Sovereign of the Two Sicilies; +in fact, so notorious was that liaison, that Hesse was eventually expelled +from Naples under an escort of gendarmes. He was engaged in several +affairs of honour, in which he always displayed the utmost courage; +and his romantic career terminated by his being killed in a duel by +Count L--, natural son of the first Napoleon. He died as he had lived, +beloved by his friends, and leaving behind him little but his name and +the kind thoughts of those who survived him. + + +VISITING IN THE COUNTRY + + +When I returned to London from Paris, in 1815, upon promotion, I was +accompanied by Colonel Brooke, who was good enough to invite me to pass +some time at his brother's, Sir R. Brookes, in Cheshire, upon the occasion +of the christening of his eldest son. The fete was truly magnificent, +and worthy of our excellent host; and all the great people of the neighbouring +counties were present. + +Soon afterwards I went to the Hale, a country house near Liverpool, +belonging to Mr. Blackburn, one of the oldest members of the House of +Commons, where many persons, who had been at Sir Richard Brookes's, +met again. Mr. Blackburn was extremely absent and otherwise odd: upon +one occasion I gave him a letter to frank, which he deliberately opened +and read in my presence; and on my asking him if it amused him, he replied +that he did not understand what it meant. Upon another occasion the +Duke of Gloucester, accompanied by Mr. Blackburn, went out to shoot +pheasants in the preserves near the Hale; when all of a sudden, Mr. +B. observing that the Duke's gun was cocked, asked his Royal Highness +whether he always carried his gun cocked. "Yes, Blackburn, always," +was the reply. + +"Well then, good morning, your Royal Highness; I will no longer accompany +you." + +At dinner Mr. Blackburn was very eccentric: he would never surrender +his place at table even to royalty; so the Duke was obliged to sit near +him. Whenever the royal servant filled the Duke's glass with wine and +water, Mr. B. invariably drank it off; until at length, the Duke asked +his servant for more wine and water, and anticipating a repetition of +the farce that had so often been played, drank it off, and said, "Well, +Blackburn, I have done you at last." After dinner the Duke and the +men went to join the ladies in the drawing-room, where the servant in +royal livery was waiting, holding a tray upon which was a cup of tea +for the Duke. Mr. Blackburn, observing the servant in waiting, and +that nobody took the cup of tea, determined on drinking it; but the +domestic retired a little, to endeavour to prevent it. Mr. Blackburn, +however, followed and persisted; Upon which the servant said, "Sir, +it is for his Royal Highness." + +"D--- his Royal Highness, I will have this tea." + +The Duke exclaimed, "That's right, Blackburn," and ordered the servant +to hand it to him. + + +COLONEL KELLY AND HIS BLACKING + + +Among the odd characters I have met with, I do not recollect anyone +more eccentric than the late Lieutenant-colonel Kelly, of the First +Foot Guards, who was the vainest man I ever encountered. He was a thin, +emaciated-looking dandy, but had all the bearing of the gentleman. He +was haughty in the extreme, and very fond of dress; his boots were so +well varnished that the polish now in use could not surpass Kelly's +blacking in brilliancy; his pantaloons were made of the finest leather, +and his coats were inimitable: in short, his dress was considered perfect. + +His sister held the place of housekeeper to the Custom-house, and when +it was burnt down, Kelly was burnt with it, in endeavoring to save his +favorite boots. When the news of his horrible death became known, all +the dandies were anxious to secure the services of his valet, who possessed +the mystery of the inimitable blacking. Brummell lost no time in discovering +his place of residence, and asked what wages he required; the servant +answered, his late master gave him 150£. a-year, but it was not enough +for his talents, and he should require 200£.; upon which Brummell said, +well, if you will make it guineas, I shall be happy to attend upon you." +The late Lord Plymouth eventually secured this phoenix of valets at +200£. a-year, and bore away the sovereignty of boots. + + +LORD ALLEN AND COUNT D'ORSAY + + +Lord Allen being rather the worse for drinking too much wine at dinner, +teased Count D'Orsay, and said some very disagreeable things, which +irritated him; when suddenly John Bush entered the club and shook hands +with the Count, who exclaimed, "Voila, la difference entre une bonne +bouche et une mauvaise haleine." + +The following bon mot was also attributed to the Count: General Ornano, +observing a certain nobleman - who, by some misfortune in his youth, +lost the use of his legs - in a Bath chair, which he wheeled about, +and inquiring the name of the English peer, D'Orsay answered, "Pere +la Chaise." + +The Count had many disciples among our men of fashion, but none of them +succeeded in copying the original. His death produced, both in London +and in Paris, a deep and universal regret. The Count's life has been +so well delineated in the public prints, that nothing I could say would +add to the praise that has been bestowed upon him. Perfectly natural +in manners and language, highly accomplished, and never betraying the +slightest affectation or pretension, he had formed friendships with +some of the noblest and most accomplished men in England. He was also +a great favourite in Paris, where he had begun to exercise his talent +as an artist, when death prematurely removed him from society. + +Mr. PHELPS + +Mr. Phelps, a chorus singer, and an excellent musician, with good looks +and address, contrived to ingratiate himself with the Marchioness of +Antrim, and was fortunate enough to marry her ladyship, by whose means +he was created a baronet, and allied to some of our most aristocratic +families. + + +THE LATE LORD BLOOMFIELD + + +The late Lord Bloomfield likewise owed his elevation to the Peerage +to his musical talents. When the Prince of Wales was living at the +Pavilion at Brighton, he wanted some one who could accompany him on +the violoncello, and having ascertained that Captain Bloomfield, of +the Royal Artillery, who was then at Brighton with his troop, was an +accomplished violoncello player, the captain was accordingly summoned +to appear before the Prince, at the Pavilion. From that night commenced +an intimacy which for many years existed between the Prince and Captain +Bloomfield; who for a considerable length of time was well known in +fashionable circles under the title of Sir Benjamin Bloomfield. A court +intrigue, headed by a fascinating marchioness, caused him to be sent +into splendid exile: this lady attributing to Sir Benjamin Bloomfield +her being compelled to send back some jewels which had been presented +to her by the Prince Regent; but which, it was discovered, belonged +to the Crown, and could not be alienated. Sir Benjamin was created +a Peer, and sent to Stockholm as ambassador, where his affable manners +and his unostentatious hospitality rendered him exceedingly popular; +and he became as great a favorite with Bernadotte as he had been with +the Prince Regent. The name of Bloomfield is at this day respected in Sweden. + + +THE RIGHT HON. GEORGE CANNING + + +When Mr. Canning retired from Portugal, he was received at Paris with +a distinction and a deference perhaps never before bestowed on a foreign +diplomatist; he dined with Charles X. almost tete-a-tete, and was scrambled +for by the leading aristocracy of France. It happened that he also +dined, on one occasion, with the Bailly Ferret, who was the oldest foreign +ambassador in Paris; and it was generally understood that Canning, who +had the reputation of being a gourmand, and was not in robust health +at the time, never thoroughly recovered from these Parisian hospitalities. +A short time after, this great orator, and the most brilliant statesman +of the day, breathed his last at Chiswick, in the same room in which +Charles James Fox died. + +MRS. BOEHM, OF ST. JAMES'S SQUARE + +This lady used to give fashionable balls and masquerades, to which I +look back with much pleasure. The Prince Regent frequently honoured +her fetes with his presence. Mrs. Boehm, on one occasion, sent invitations +to one of her particular friends, begging him to fill them up, and tickets +were given by him to Dick Butler (afterwards Lord Glengal) and to Mr. +Raikes. Whilst they were deliberating in what character they should +go, Dick Butler - for by that name he was only then known - proposed +that Raikes should take the part of Apollo; which the latter agreed +to, provided Dick would be his lyre. The noble lord's reputation for +stretching the long bow rendered this repartee so applicable, that it +was universally repeated at the clubs. + +DR. GOODALL, OF ETON + +This gentleman was proverbially fond of punning. About the same time +that he was made Provost of Eton, he received, also, a Stall at Windsor. +A young lady of his acquaintance, while congratulating him on his elevation, +and requesting him to give the young ladies of Eton and Windsor a ball +during the vacation, happened to touch his wig with her fan, and caused +the powder to fly about. Upon which the doctor exclaimed, "My dear, +you see you can get the powder out of the canon, but not the ball." + + +LORD MELBOURNE, THE DUKE OF LEINSTER, AND LORD NORMANBY + + +When Lord Melbourne offered the garter to the Duke of Leinster, his +grace is reported to have answered that he did not want it; adding, +"It will, no doubt, be eagerly accepted by one of your lordship's supporters +in the Upper House." On another occasion, when Lord Normanby was soliciting +Lord Melbourne to be made a marquis, the noble Premier observed, in +his jocular way, "Why, Normanby, you are not such a d-----d fool as +to want that!" The favour, however, was eventually granted. + + +THE DUKE OF GLOUCESTER + + +His Royal Highness, who was in the habit of saying very ludicrous things, +asked one of his friends in the House of Lords, on the occasion when +William IV. assented to Lord Grey's Proposition to pass the Reform Bill +coute qui coute, "Who is Silly Billy now?" This was in allusion to +the general opinion that was prevalent of the Royal Duke's weakness, +and which had obtained for him the sobriquet of "Silly Billy." + +The Duke frequently visited Cheltenham during the season. Upon one +occasion, he called upon Colonel Higgins, brother to the equerry of +his Royal Highness the Prince Regent, and, on inquiring of the servant +if his master was at home, received for answer, "My master is dying." + +"Dying!" repeated the Duke; "have you sent for a doctor?" + +"No, sir." + +His Royal Highness immediately ran back into the street, and, having +the good fortune to find a medical man, he requested him to come at +once to Colonel Higgins, as he was on the point of death. The Duke +and the doctor soon reached the colonel's house, and, after again asking +the servant how his master was, that functionary replied, "I told you, +sir, that he is dying." They mounted the staircase, and were rather +amused to find the reported invalid busily occupied in dyeing his hair. + + +LADY CORK + + +In 1819, this venerable lady lived in Old Burlington Street, where she +gave many parties, to persons of all nations, and contrived to bring +together foreigners from the wilds of America, the Cape of Good Hope, +and even savages from the isles of the Pacific; in fact, she was the +notorious lion-hunter of her age. It was supposed that she had a peculiar +ignorance of the laws of meum and tuum, and that her monomania was such +that she would try to get possession of whatever she could place her +hands upon; so that it was dangerous to leave in the ante-room anything +of value. On application being made, however, the articles were usually +returned the following day, the fear of the law acting strongly upon +her ladyship's bewildered brain. + + +THE DUCHESS OF GORDON + + +This leader of fashion, who was wont to be the admiration of all circles, +was looked upon as the most ambitious of women, and her vanity was fully +gratified by the marriage of her daughters to the first people in the +realm - the Dukes of Richmond, Manchester, and Bedford, and the Marquis +of Cornwallis. + + +THE LATE MRS. BRADSHAW (MARIA TREE) + + +The two Miss Trees, Maria and Ellen (the latter now Mrs. Kean), were +the great favourites of the Bath Stage for many seasons before they +became leading stars in London. Miss Ellen Tree made her first appearance +in a grand entertainment, called the Cataract of the Ganges, in a magnificent +car drawn by six horses. Her beauty made a deep impression on the audience, +which was naturally increased by her subsequent exhibition of great talents. + +Miss Maria Tree was much admired as a vocalist, and her Viola, in Twelfth +Night, was one of the most popular performances of the day. Mr. Bradshaw +became desperately enamoured of her during her engagement in London, +and having learnt that she was about to go by the mail coach to Birmingham, +where she was to perform her principal characters, thought it a favourable +opportunity of enjoying her society; so he sent his servant to secure +him a place by the mail, under the name of Tomkins. At the appointed +time for departure, Mr. Bradshaw was at the office, and jumping into +the coach was soon whirled away; but great was his disappointment at +finding that the fair object of his admiration was not a fellow-passenger: +he was not consoled by discovering that there were two mails, the one +the Birmingham, mail, the other the Birmingham and Manchester, and that +whilst he was journeying by the latter, Miss Tree was travelling in +the other. + +On arriving at Birmingham, early in the morning, he left the coach and +stepped into the hotel, determined to remain there, and go to the theatre +on the following evening. He went to bed, and slept late the following +day; and on waking he remembered that his trunk with all his money had +gone on to Manchester, and that he was without the means of paying his +way. Seeing the Bank of Birmingham opposite the hotel, he went over +and explained his position to one of the partners, giving his own banker's +address in London, and showing letters addressed to him as Mr. Bradshaw. +Upon this he was told that with such credentials he might have a loan; +and the banker said he would write the necessary letter and cheque, +and send the money over to him at the hotel. Mr. Bradshaw, pleased +with this kind attention, sat himself down comfortably to breakfast +in the coffee-room. According to promise, the cashier made his appearance +at the hotel, and asked the waiter for Mr. Bradshaw. + +"No such gentleman here," was the reply. + +"Oh, yes, he came by the London mail." + +"No, sir; no one came but Mr. Tomkins, who was booked as inside passenger +to Manchester." + +The cashier was dissatisfied; but the waiter added, "Sir, you can look +through the window of the coffee-room door, and see the gentleman yourself." + +On doing so, he beheld the Mr. Tomkins, alias Mr. Bradshaw, and immediately +returned to the Bank, telling what he himself had heard and seen. The +banker went over to the hotel, had a consultation with the landlord, +and it was determined that a watch should be placed upon the suspicious +person who had two names and no luggage, and who was booked to Manchester +but had stopped at Birmingham. + +The landlord summoned boots - a little lame fellow, of most ludicrous +appearance, - and pointing to the gentleman in the coffee-room, told +him his duty for the day was to follow him wherever he went, and never +to lose sight of him; but above all to take care that he did not get +away. Boots nodded assent, and immediately mounted guard. Mr. Bradshaw +having taken his breakfast and read the papers, looked at his watch, +and sallied forth to see something of the goodly town of Birmingham. +He was much surprised at observing a little odd-looking man surveying +him most attentively, and watching his every movement; stopping whenever +he stopped, and evidently taking a deep interest in all he did. At last, +observing that he was the object of this incessant espionage, and finding +that he had a shilling left in his pocket, he hailed one of the coaches +that ran short distances in those days when omnibuses were not. This, +however, did not suit little boots, who went up to him and insisted +that he must not leave the town. + +Mr. Bradshaw's indignation was naturally excessive, and he immediately +returned to the hotel, where he found a constable ready to take him +before the mayor as an impostor and swindler. He was compelled to appear +before his worship, and had the mortification of being told that unless +he could give some explanation, he must be content with a night's lodging +in a house of detention. Mr. Bradshaw had no alternative but to send +to the fair charmer of his heart to identify him; which she most readily +did, as soon as rehearsal was over. Explanations were then entered +into; but he was forced to give the reason of his being in Birmingham, +which of course made a due impression on the lady's heart, and led to +that happy result of their interviews - a marriage which resulted in +the enjoyment of mutual happiness for many years. + + +LADIES' JEWELLERY AND LOVERS + + +Some of the most magnificent fortunes of England have, in the first +instance, been undermined by an extravagant expenditure on jewellery, +which has been given to ladies, married and unmarried, who have fascinated +their wealthy admirers and made them their slaves. Hamlet, and Rundell +and Bridge, were in my day patronized by the great, and obtained large +sums of money from their enamoured clients, to whom they often became bankers. + +On the day after the coronation of George IV., Hamlet made his appearance +at the house of Mr. Coutts, in Piccadilly, the corner of Stratton Street. +It was during dinner; but, owing no doubt to a previous arrangement, +he was at once admitted, when he placed before the rich banker a magnificent +diamond cross, which had been worn the previous day by the Duke of York. +It at once attracted the admiration of Mrs. Coutts, who loudly exclaimed, +"How happy I should be with such a splendid specimen of jewellery." +"What is it worth?" immediately exclaimed Mr. Coutts. "I could not +allow it to pass out of my possession for less than 15,000£.," said +the wary tradesman. "Bring me a pen and ink," was the only answer made +by the doting husband; and he at once drew a cheque for that amount +upon the bank in the Strand; and with much delight the worthy old gentleman +placed the jewel upon the fair bosom of the lady: + + "Upon her breast a sparkling cross she wore, + Which Jews might kiss, and infidels adore." + +The Earl of C--, whose reputation in the sporting world was of the highest +order, and who had obtained some notoriety by his amours, fell into +the hands of Hamlet, who was known to the aristocracy by his mock title +of "Prince of Denmark." Hamlet placed before him, on one occasion, +jewels to the amount of thirty thousand pounds, and volunteered, as +his client was not of age, to give him credit for several months. The +offer was accepted, and the brilliant present became the possession +of a young lady, one of the Terpsichorean tribe (Mademoiselle Le G.), +whose charms had captivated the youthful nobleman, and who had so irrevocably +fascinated him by the expression of her love, awakened by the prospect +of a rich remuneration, that she accepted him as the sole possessor +of a heart which had been before at the disposal of any rich admirer +whose purse was worthy her consideration. + +This lady, who is now somewhat advanced in years, but has still the +remains of beauty, is living in France upon her estate; the produce +of the many charms which she once possessed, and which she turned to +such advantage, as to make her society even up to this day courted by +those who look upon wealth as the great source of distinction, and who +are willing to disbelieve any stories that they may accidentally hear +of her previous history. + + +THE LATE LORD HENRY SEYMOUR + + +I knew Lord Henry perhaps better than any other Englishman, having lived +with him on terms of great intimacy. He was famous for his racing stud +and good taste in his carriages and riding-horses. It was said, by +persons who were little acquainted with him, that he was fond of masquerades, +fighting, and was also the terror of pugilists, from his great strength +and science in boxing; on the contrary, he was a gentle, retiring, and +humane man, and never was known to have been present at a masquerade, +or any place of the sort. But it unfortunately happened that a man +named "Franconi," of the Circus - a low-born and vulgar fellow - resembled +him in looks and stature, and having been mistaken for my noble friend +gave himself out as Lord Seymour in those dens of infamy, where the +noble lord was unknown. + +Lord Henry was a man of fine taste, and fond of the arts, and, at his +death, his paintings, library, and plate fetched a considerable sum +at public auction. During his lifetime he patronized young artists: +often advancing them money, and assisting them in every possible way. + +Lord Henry Seymour was the founder of the French Jockey Club, and, in +conjunction with the late Duke de Gramont (better known in England as +the Count de Guiche), made racing in France what it now is: that is, +they placed the turf upon a respectable footing. Lord Henry established +a school of arms and gymnasium in his hotel on the Boulevard des Italiens, +which became the most celebrated in Europe. He himself was an adept +in the art of fencing, his skill was considered by the professors to +be incomparable. + +His kindness of heart and unostentatious generosity were his noblest +qualities. One morning, whilst we were breakfasting in his library, +a friend entered, and, with a sad countenance, informed Lord Henry that +he had that morning been visiting an old friend of his, a man of good +birth, who, with his wife and children, were absolutely starving, and +that they were reduced to sleep upon straw. Lord Henry, touched by +this painful information, asked where those poor people were to be found, +and being told, he said not a word more, but ordered his carriage and +went out. The next morning the same gentleman made his appearance, +and said, "I call to tell you, Seymour, that I am just come from my +poor friend, who, I am happy to say, has received relief, in the shape +of furniture, bedding, linen, and food, from some kind person, who also +left a considerable sum of money to purchase wearing apparel for the family." + +Seymour never moved a muscle of his face, and we were wondering from +whence the relief came, when a fine-looking fellow entered, bowing in +the most respectful manner, and addressed his lordship in the following +terms:- "My lord, I am obliged to confess that I have taken some trouble +to discover the name of our benefactor, and, from all I have been able +to learn, it cannot be any other than your lordship; I therefore deem +it my duty, on behalf of my wife, children, and self, to return you +my heartfelt thanks for this unexampled act of charity towards a perfect +stranger." The poor fellow shed tears in thus addressing his lordship, +who kindly gave him his hand, and promised to be his friend for the +future; which promise he fulfilled, by procuring him a place under the +Government, that enabled him to live happily and bring up his family +with honour and comfort. + + +FRANCE AND THE FRENCH + + +I will not permit this little volume to make its appearance in English +society, without a few words about a people with whom I have mingled +for nearly forty years. When I first came to France, few of my countrypeople +travelled, save those belonging to the rich and aristocratic classes; +it was not, therefore, surprising that those whose interest it might +have been, on both sides of the Channel, to create a bad feeling between +England and France, found little difficulty in doing so. An Englishman +was taught to hate the French as well as to observe the Ten Commandments; +and a Frenchman, on the other hand, was educated with the idea that +his only enemy on the face of the earth was an Englishman. + +I regard this stimulated hostile feeling between two nations which must +ever influence the welfare of the human race more than any others, as +one of the greatest calamities that could curse humanity. We have only +to read history from the days of Agincourt up to our later struggles +with Napoleon I., to come to the conclusion that the two bravest and +the most intelligent nations on the face of the earth have, from DYNASTIC +ambition, and a want of the people knowing each other, been ever engaged +in inflicting mutual disasters, which have impeded for centuries the +progress, civilization, and prosperity of both; whilst the want of a +proper understanding between the two countries has materially aided +in retarding other nations in obtaining that political emancipation +necessary to the happiness of mankind. + +I have lived through a period characterized by sanguinary wars and huge +national debts, and have remained in this world long enough to calculate +their results. I am afraid we must often be content with that empty +glory which lives only in the pages of history. A battle fought fifty +years ago appears very often of no more utility than the splendid tomb +of a Necropolis. Events and objects for which men by thousands were +brought together in deadly combat assume, a few years afterwards, mighty +small proportions; and those who have taken part in deadly struggles, +at a later period marvel at the enthusiasm which then animated them. +I am no believer in that era of happiness which some divines imagine +to be so near at hand; nor do I imagine that the next two or three hundred +years will witness the sword turned into the reaping-hook of peaceful +industry; but what I do believe in, and what I hope for, is that nations +will know each other better than they did of old. It will be more difficult +for sovereigns and governments to bring about wars between neighboring +nations now, than it was before the existence of that intercommunication +which in our day has been created by the press, the railway, and the +electric telegraph. + +I have lived long enough to find hundreds of my countrymen participating +in a real knowledge of the French, and believing with me that they are +a brave, intelligent, and generous nation. Nearly half a century of +experience amongst them has taught me that there is much to learn and +much that is worthy of imitation in France. The social habits of the +French, and their easy mode of communication, always gain the admiration, +and often invite the attachment of foreigners. They are less prejudiced +than we islanders, and are much more citizens of the world than ourselves. +I have received an immense amount of courtesy in France; and if there +be less of solid friendship - which, however, in England is based too +often on a similarity of birth, position, and wealth - in France, you +have, at least, a greater chance than in England of making a friend +of a man who neither looks to your ancestors nor your amount of riches +before he proffers you the most sincere intimacy, and, if necessary, +disinterested aid, purely on the ground of your own merit and character. + +Many of the better qualities of the French are not discoverable by the +superficial traveller, any more than the sterling qualities of the Englishman +are appreciated by the foreigner who makes a brief sojourn in Great +Britain. Slowly, but, I believe, surely, the agreeable knowledge that +I possess of the French is becoming more universal; and I cannot but +imagine that such a correct appreciation will be fraught with the most +valuable political as well as social results. + +Intelligent Englishmen have lived long enough to appreciate the genius +of Napoleon I., whose mode of governing France has been applied by Napoleon +III. with a success which prejudice even has been compelled to acknowledge. +But I remember a period when probably not a dozen Englishmen could have +been found to speak of the first Emperor with the most ordinary common +sense. I will, however, record one honourable exception to the rule. +The late Lord Dudley and Ward, an eccentric, but able man, was at Vienna, +in the midst of a large party, who were all more or less abusing or +depreciating the fallen hero, whose very name had so long created fear +and hatred amongst them. It was naturally supposed that the Englishman +who was silently listening to this conversation must of course, as the +natural enemy of France, approve of all that had been said. Prince Metternich +turned at last to his guest, and said, "Et vous, my Lord, que pensez +vous de Napoleon?" "Je pense," replied Lord Dudley, "qu'il a rendu la +gloire passee douteuse, et la renommee future impossible." + +As an old soldier and an admirer of the Duke of Wellington, I cannot +altogether admit the entire justice of the observation; yet, spoken +by an Englishman to the enemies of the exiled Emperor, it was a gallant +homage paid to fallen greatness. + +The great man who now wields the destinies of France possesses many +of the remarkable qualities of the founder of his dynasty: his energetic +will, his extensive and varied knowledge, his aptitude for government, +his undaunted bravery, and that peculiar tact which leads him to say +the right thing at the right time. But to these rare gifts he joins +the most princely generosity, and a kind and gentle heart: he has never +been known to forsake a friend, or leave unrewarded any proofs of devotion +shown to him in his days of exile. He is adored by the vast majority +of the French nation, and even his political opponents, if accidentally +brought under the influence of his particularly winning and gracious +manner, are, in spite of themselves, charmed and softened, + +There can be no doubt that Napoleon III. enjoys a well-merited popularity, +and that there is throughout all classes a deep and earnest confidence +that the honour and glory of France are safe in his hands. + +It is just this mighty power, founded on the love and trust of his people, +which is the surest pledge that peace will be maintained between our +country and France. Napoleon III. does not require to court popularity +by pandering to the anti-English prejudices still retained by a small +minority of his subjects; and, unlike the representatives of less popular +dynasties, he can afford to show that he is not only the beloved and +mighty ruler of the French nation, but also the firm ally and faithful +friend of England. + + + + + +End of this Project Gutenberg Etext of Reminiscences of Captain Gronow + diff --git a/old/grnow10.zip b/old/grnow10.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ad0cbf --- /dev/null +++ b/old/grnow10.zip |