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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Climbing in The British Isles, Vol. II, by 
+W. P. Haskett Smith and H. C. Hart
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Climbing in The British Isles, Vol. II
+       Wales and Ireland
+
+Author: W. P. Haskett Smith
+        H. C. Hart
+
+Illustrator: Ellis Carr
+
+Release Date: September 21, 2011 [EBook #37502]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CLIMBING IN BRITISH ISLES, VOL II ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Anna Hall and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  CLIMBING IN THE BRITISH ISLES
+  _WALES AND IRELAND_
+
+
+
+
+  CLIMBING IN THE BRITISH ISLES
+
+  _3 vols. 16mo. Sold separately._
+
+
+  I.--ENGLAND. By W. P. HASKETT SMITH, M.A.,
+    Member of the Alpine Club. With 23
+    Illustrations by Ellis Carr, Member of the
+    Alpine Club, and 5 Plans. 3_s._ 6_d._
+
+
+  II.--WALES AND IRELAND. By W. P. HASKETT SMITH,
+    M.A., and H. C. HART, Members of the Alpine
+    Club. With 31 Illustrations by ELLIS CARR and
+    others, and 9 Plans. 3_s._ 6_d._
+
+
+  III.--SCOTLAND.
+
+[_In preparation._]
+
+
+London and New York: LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO.
+
+
+
+
+  CLIMBING
+  IN
+  THE BRITISH ISLES
+
+  _II--WALES AND IRELAND_
+
+  =WALES=
+
+  BY W. P. HASKETT SMITH, M.A.
+  Member of the Alpine Club
+
+  =IRELAND=
+
+  BY H. C. HART
+  Member of the Alpine Club; Fellow of the Linnean Society
+  Member of the Royal Irish Academy, etc.
+
+  WITH THIRTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS BY
+  ELLIS CARR
+   Member of the Alpine Club
+  _and others_
+  AND NINE PLANS
+
+
+  LONDON
+  LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
+  AND NEW YORK
+  1895
+
+  _All rights reserved_
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+The present volume is intended to deal with all parts of the British
+Isles except England, which was the subject of Vol. I., and Scotland, to
+which Vol. III. will be devoted. Nothing is here said about the _Isle of
+Man_ or the Channel Islands, because it would, no doubt, be considered
+absurd to advise anyone to visit those islands whose main object was the
+acquisition of mountaineering skill. Pretty as the former island is, its
+hills are nothing more than hills, except where they are also railways
+or tea gardens; and even on its cliffs, which are especially fine at the
+southern end, comparatively little climbing will be found.
+
+In the _Channel Islands_, on the other hand, the granite cliffs, though
+very low, being usually only 100-200 ft. high, abound in instructive
+scrambles. Many such will be found in Guernsey, Jersey, and especially
+in Sark, but the granite is not everywhere of equally good quality.
+
+The _Scilly Isles_, again, are by no means to be despised by climbers,
+especially by such of them as can enjoy knocking about in a small boat,
+which is almost the only means of getting from climb to climb. The
+granite forms are somewhat wilder and more fantastic than those in the
+Channel Islands. Peninnis Head is only one of many capital scrambling
+grounds. An article by Dr. Treves[1] gives a very good idea of the kind
+of thing which may be expected. If anyone should think of proceeding,
+under the guidance of this volume, to regions with which he is so far
+unacquainted, he will naturally ask how the climbing here described
+compares with the climbing in other parts of Britain or of Europe. How
+does Wales, for instance, stand with regard to Cumberland or the Alps?
+On this point some good remarks will be found in the _Penny Magazine_,
+vii., p. 161 (1838), where the writer assigns to the more northern hills
+a slight superiority over Wales. An impression prevails among those who
+know both that the weather of N. Wales is, if possible, more changeable
+than that of the Lakes. Climbers will notice this chiefly in winter,
+when the snow on the Welsh mountains less frequently settles into sound
+condition. Perhaps sudden changes of temperature are partly to blame for
+the greater frequency in Wales of deaths from exposure. Winter climbing
+is very enjoyable, but proper precautions must be taken against the
+cold. A writer on Wales some 300 years ago observes that 'the cold Aire
+of these Mountainous Regions by an Antiperistasis keeps in and
+strengthens the internall heat;' but a good woollen sweater, a warm cap
+to turn down over the ears and neck, and three pairs of gloves, two
+pairs on and one pair dry in the pocket, will be found quite as
+effectual. Dangers, however, cease not with the setting sun, and many
+who have defied frost-bite during the day fall an easy prey to
+rheumatism in bed at night. A groundless terror of the Welsh language
+keeps many away from Wales. The names are certainly of formidable
+appearance, and Barham's lines are hardly an exaggeration.
+
+  [1] _Boy's Own Paper_, May 5, 1894.
+
+    For the vowels made use of in Welsh are so few
+    That the A and the E and the I, O, and U
+    Have really but little or nothing to do.
+    And the duty, of course, falls the heavier by far
+    On the L and the H, and the N and the R.
+    The first syllable PEN is pronounceable; then
+    Come two LL and two HH, two FF, and an N.
+
+But appalling words like 'Slwch Twmp' or 'Cwmtrwsgl' lose half their
+venom when it is explained that W is only a way of writing OO. In spite
+of its apparent complication the language is so simple and systematic
+that anyone can learn enough in a quarter of an hour to enable him to
+pronounce with ease and moderate accuracy any place-name with which he
+is likely to meet. Irish is less regular, but wonderfully rich in
+expressions for slightly varying physical features, while the Manx names
+are more interesting than the hills by which they are borne.
+
+In comparison with the Alps what was said in Vol. I. of Cumberland
+applies equally well to Wales, and nearly as well to Kerry or Donegal.
+The most striking peculiarity of Irish mountains is, next to the size of
+the bogs, the large amount of car-driving which has to be done before
+and after the day's work. But this is an intrusion on the province of
+another. Old Thomas Fuller, on sitting down to write a detailed account
+of Wales, which he had never seen, genially remarked that 'it matters
+not how meanly skilled a writer is so long as he hath knowing and
+communicative friends.' That precisely describes the Editor's position,
+especially with regard to Ireland, to the treatment of which no other
+man could have brought knowledge at once so wide and so accurate as Mr.
+Hart. Unfortunately he, like his own 'carrabuncle,' was somewhat
+elusive. After months of mysterious silence he would glide into sight,
+great with solid mountaineering matter, gleaming with pearls of botany
+and gems of geologic lore; but, alas! in another moment the waters of
+bronchitis, or influenza, or inertia would close over the mysterious
+monster's back, and he would glide away into unknown depths where the
+harpoon of the penny post was harmless and telegrams tickled him in
+vain. Now the carrabuncle is caught at last, and readers will be well
+repaid for a few months' delay. They will be astonished that one pair of
+eyes could take in so much, and that one pair of legs could cover so
+much ground.
+
+Among many other 'knowing and communicative friends' the Editor would
+especially dwell on his indebtedness to Mr. F. H. Bowring and to Mr. O.
+G. Jones. The latter has contributed the whole of the section dealing
+with the Arans and Cader Idris, and his minute knowledge of that region
+will be evident from the fact that the quantity which our space has
+allowed us to print represents less than half of the matter originally
+supplied by him.
+
+For most of the sketches we are again indebted to Mr. Ellis Carr, for a
+striking view of Tryfaen to Mr. Colin Phillips, and for the remainder
+(taken under most cruel conditions of weather) to Mr. Harold Hughes of
+Bangor.
+
+                                                  W. P. H. S.
+
+  _August 1895._
+
+
+
+
+CLIMBING IN THE BRITISH ISLES
+
+
+
+
+WALES
+
+WHERE TO STAY
+
+
+=Aber.=--This station on the Chester and Holyhead Railway is in no sense
+a centre for mountaineers, though a good deal of work _may_ be done from
+it. We ourselves 'in our hot youth, when George the Third was King,' and
+a dozen miles extra tramping at the end of a day was a mere trifle,
+managed to do many of the mountains of North Wales from it.
+
+Its only attraction is a pretty valley, at the head of which are some
+not very striking waterfalls. The surrounding rocks have, however, been
+the scene of a surprising number of accidents. Most of these have been
+caused by slipping on the path which crosses the steep slope of the
+eastern bank and leads to the head of the main fall. Such was the fatal
+accident on April 13, 1873, to Mr. F. T. Payne, a barrister. His sight
+was very defective, and this fact goes far towards accounting for the
+accident.[2]
+
+  [2] The _Times_, April 16, 1873, p. 6.
+
+In 1876 a very similar case occurred. A young man called Empson, who was
+staying at Llanfairfechan, was killed in descending, apparently at the
+very same spot.[3]
+
+  [3] The _Times_, September 9, 1876, p. 8.
+
+In April 1885 Mr. Maitland Wills, described as an expert mountaineer,
+while walking with two friends from Capel Curig to Aber, fell near the
+same spot, and was instantly killed.[4]
+
+  [4] _Ibid._ April 7, 1885, p. 7.
+
+In August of the same year Mr. Paget, the Hammersmith Police Magistrate,
+fell and was severely hurt.[5] And these by no means exhaust the list of
+casualties, which is, perhaps, only second in length to that of Snowdon
+itself. It may be mentioned that there is a climb or two on the west and
+steeper side of the falls.
+
+  [5] _Ibid._ August 3, 1885, p. 10.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Bala=, reached from London in about 7 hours by the Great Western line,
+is a very pleasant place to stop at on entering Wales, being situated at
+the foot of the finest natural sheet of water in the Principality, and
+having railway facilities in three directions. By the aid of the rail
+Cader Idris, the Arans, and the Rhinogs can be easily got at. For the
+first mountains Dolgelly, for the second Drwsynant and Llanuwchllyn, for
+the third Maentwrog would be the best stations. This is also the best
+place for Arenig Fawr, which can be done on foot all the way, or better
+by taking the train to Arenig station and returning by rail from
+Llanuwchllyn after crossing the hill. Lord Lyttelton made Bala famous
+last century. What he said of it will sufficiently appear from some
+lines (long since erased by the indignant ladies of Bala) which were
+once to be seen in a visitors' book here:--
+
+    Lord Lyttelton of old gave out
+    To all the world that Bala trout
+    Have all the sweetness that pervades
+    The laughing lips of Bala's maids.
+    Which did his Lordship mean to flout?
+    For fact it is that Bala trout
+    (Ask any fisherman you meet)
+    Are bad to catch, but worse to eat.
+    O Maid of Bala, ere we part,
+    'Tis mine to bind thy wounded heart;
+    And in thy favour testify--
+    Though seldom sweet, thou'rt never shy!
+
+There is, however, one objection to this epigram, for the poet talks of
+trout and the peer of Gwyniad; let us, therefore, hope that in regard to
+the fair as well as the fish the poet's harsh judgment was equally
+unsound.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Barmouth=, a capital place from which to visit the Rhinog range and
+Cader Idris; and the Cambrian Railway extends the range of operations in
+three directions, so that even Snowdon is within the possibilities of a
+single day's excursion. There is excellent climbing practice to be had,
+not only just outside the town, but actually within it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Beddgelert= (i.e. 'Gelert's Grave') is one of the gates of Snowdonia,
+and it is the gate by which the judicious will enter. It is, moreover,
+perhaps the prettiest mountain resort in Wales. Penygwrhyd is more
+central for climbers pure--and simple--but has no pretensions to beauty
+of situation; Llanberis has its railway facilities, its quarries, and
+its trippers; Bettws y Coed is delicious, but it is right away from the
+mountains. For combination of the beauties of mountain, water, and
+wooded plain Dolgelly is the only rival of Beddgelert. Snowdon on the
+north, Moel Hebog on the west, and Cynicht and Moelwyn on the east are
+enough to make the fortune of any place as a mountaineer's abode, even
+if there were no Pass of Aberglaslyn close by.
+
+The nearest station is Rhyd-ddu, on the Snowdon Ranger line, nearly 4
+miles off, and it is uphill nearly all the way. To Portmadoc, on the
+other hand, the distance is greater, 6 or 7 miles, but the road is
+fairly level, and nearly every step of it is beautiful, both in winter
+and in summer. Indeed, there was a time when winter in this romantic
+village was more enjoyable than summer, for in warm weather the eye was
+much obstructed by the hand which held the nose; but that was many years
+ago. The ascent of Snowdon from this side used to be the most
+frequented, but in the race for popularity it has long been distanced by
+Llanberis. It is a good path, and easily found. The start is made along
+the Carnarvon road for some three miles to the Pitt's Head; then up the
+hill to the right to Llechog, and across the once dreaded Bwlch y Maen.
+A more direct and very fine route leads straight up and over the ridge
+of Yr Aran, joining the regular path just short of Bwlch-y-Maen. By
+going up the Capel Curig some 3½ miles, and taking the turn to the
+left more than half a mile beyond Llyn y Ddinas, Sir Edward Watkin's
+path up Cwmyllan may be utilised; but at the cost of 3½ miles' extra
+walking along the same road the far finer ascent by Cwm Dyli may be
+made. This is the same as that from Penygwrhyd, but with the advantage
+of including the lowest portion and waterfalls of Cwm Dyli, which are
+extremely fine. The classical climbs of Snowdonia are within reach for
+good walkers, but others will find abundance of opportunities for
+practice within a mile or two, and for the Garnedd Goch range (which has
+in it some choice bits) there is no better base. The road to Portmadoc
+on the south and to Penygwrhyd on the north are not only among the most
+beautiful in the kingdom, but present the most alluring of problems to
+the rock climber within a stone's throw. There is a corner of the road
+about 6 miles from Beddgelert where Crib Goch shows over a foot-hill of
+Lliwedd, and a rocky ridge runs down from the east almost on to the
+road. This ridge, though broken, bears some very choice bits, including
+a certain wide, short chimney facing south.
+
+A separate guide-book to this place (by J. H. Bransby) appeared in 1840,
+and there have been several since, among the best being one published at
+the modest price of one penny by Abel Heywood.
+
+The place plays a great part in Charles Kingsley's _Two Years Ago_, and
+it was at the 'Goat' Inn here that George Borrow was so furious at the
+want of deference with which his utterances were received by the
+company.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Benglog=, at the foot of Llyn Ogwen and the head of Nant Ffrancon, is
+only second to Penygwrhyd as a climbing centre, but, unfortunately, the
+accommodation is so very scanty--Ogwen Cottage, the only house, having
+no more than two bedrooms--that the place is little used. For Tryfaen,
+the Glyders, the Carnedds, Twll Du, and the Elider range it is
+preferable to any other place, and beautiful problems are to be found by
+the climber literally within a stone's throw of the door. It is about 5
+miles from Bethesda station on the north and the same distance from
+Capel Curig on the east, all three places being on the great Holyhead
+Road. Penygwrhyd is 2 hours away, whether by road (9 miles) or over the
+hill. In the latter case the shortest route is by the col which
+separates Tryfaen and Glyder Fach, and then over the shoulder east of
+the latter mountain. To Llanberis the way lies by Twll Du and Cwm
+Patric, and though much longer than the last could probably be done in
+nearly as short a time.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Bethesda= is 5 miles from Benglog, and that much further from all the
+best climbing. See, however, p. 18.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Capel Curig= (600 ft. above sea level) is 5½ miles from Bettws y
+Coed railway station, 4 miles from Penygwrhyd, and 5 from Benglog, is a
+very good centre for strong walkers. Most of the best climbs are within
+reach, but none very near. For Snowdon Penygwrhyd is much nearer;
+Benglog is better for the Glyders and the Carnedds; so that, while being
+pretty good for nearly all, Capel Curig is not the best starting-place
+for any. It has no exclusive rights, except over Moel Siabod on the
+south and the wild unfrequented district in the opposite direction,
+which lies at the back of Carnedd Llewelyn.
+
+Hutton, who visited it at the beginning of the century, calls it 'an
+excellent inn in a desert.'
+
+The Alpine Club had a meeting here in 1879.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Dinas Mawddwy=, reached by rail from Machynlleth, is a pleasant,
+secluded spot amid mountainous surroundings, but not conveniently
+situated for climbing anything but Aran Mawddwy. All the advantages of
+the place may be equally well enjoyed from Machynlleth. Old Pennant
+records how in his rash youth he used to toboggan down the peat paths of
+Craig y Dinas, 'which,' says he, 'I now survey with horror.' A Welsh
+bard, whose poems must have been neglected in the place, declares that
+it was notable for three things--blue earth, constant rain, and hateful
+people.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Dolgelly=, which ends in _-eu_ in many old books, in _-ey_ on the one
+side and in _-y_ on the other of the modern railway station, and is
+commonly pronounced by the residents as if it ended in _-a_, is said to
+mean 'hazel dale,' a name which the place can hardly be said to live up
+to. There is, however, no doubt that it is one of the prettiest places
+in Wales and one of the pleasantest to stop at. In the first place the
+communications are very good, for by the Great Western Railway there is
+a capital service to Shrewsbury and London, while on the seaward side
+the Cambrian Railway puts Barmouth and Portmadoc on the one side, and
+Machynlleth and Aberystwith on the other, within easy reach. There is
+good scenery on all sides of it, while for Cader Idris, the Aran
+Mountains, and the Rhinog range there is no better centre. Many people
+have an objection to going up and down a mountain by the same route, and
+have an equal horror of the long grind round the foot of it, which is
+the result of going down a different side of the mountain if you want
+to return to your starting-point. At Dolgelly you enjoy the advantage of
+being able to take a train to the far side of your mountain, so as to
+come back over the top and straight on down to your sleeping-place. For
+instance, a very fine way of doing Aran Benllyn and Aran Mawddwy is to
+go by the Great Western to Llanuwchllyn and then come back along the
+ridge of both mountains. In the same way one can begin a day on the
+Rhinogs by rail, walking from Llanbedr or Harlech to Cwm Bychan, and so
+over the Rhinogs and Llethr, and down to Dolgelly again. Even Cader
+Idris is rendered more enjoyable if the train be taken to Towyn and
+Abergynolwyn, whence the walk by Talyllyn and up to the summit by way of
+Llyn y Cae is in turn pretty and impressive. As a rule it is far better
+to go out by train and come back on foot than to reverse the process,
+and for two reasons--first, by taking the train at once you make sure of
+your ride, and have the remainder of the day freed from anxiety and the
+fear of just missing the last train a dozen miles from home, with less
+than an hour of daylight remaining; secondly, if you don't miss the
+train it is because you have come along at racing pace. You are in
+consequence very hot, and have to stand about in a draughty station till
+the train (which is twenty minutes late) arrives and then follows half
+an hour's journey with wet feet, for wet feet and walking on Welsh hills
+are very close friends indeed.
+
+There used to be a saying about Dolgelly that the town walls there are
+six miles high. Of course this refers mainly to the long mural
+precipice which forms the north point of Cader Idris. Abundant climbing
+is to be found on this 'wall,' which, with a small part of Aran Mawddwy
+and a few short, steep bits along the course of the river Mawddach,
+constitutes the best rock-work in the immediate vicinity of Dolgelly.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Ffestiniog=, a very pleasant place to stay at, with good communications
+by rail with Bala, Bettws y Coed, and Portmadoc. There are climbs
+near--e.g. on the Manods and on Moelwyn--but on a small scale, the good
+ones being mostly destroyed by the colossal slate quarries.
+
+_Blaenau Ffestiniog_ is the more central and less beautiful; the old
+village (3 miles away) is far pleasanter. The Cynfael Falls, about a
+mile off, include the well-known 'Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit,' and are very
+pretty, but have been almost as fatal as those at Aber. Readers will
+probably remember the death of Miss Marzials at this spot.[6]
+
+  [6] The _Times_, August 25, 1885, p. 6, and August 27, p. 8. See
+  also the _Times_, October 2, 1837, p. 3.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Llanberis= (i.e. 'Church of Peris'), being a station on a railway which
+has a good service from England, is the most accessible of all the
+mountain resorts in Wales. As a consequence of these facilities the
+place is often intolerably overrun, especially during the late summer
+and autumn. The true lover of the mountains flees the spot, for the
+day-tripper is a burden and desire fails. Whether the railway will have
+the power to make things worse in this respect we cannot yet decide, but
+it seems unlikely. It is only of late years that Llanberis has possessed
+the most popular road up Snowdon. The opening of the road over the pass
+in 1818 did a great deal, and the visit of H.M. the Queen in 1832 did
+still more to make the place popular, and the pony path up Snowdon and
+the railway settled the matter. The other mountains which may readily be
+ascended from here are those in the Elider and Glyder ranges, while
+climbing is nearly confined to the rocks on both sides of the pass,
+which includes some work of great excellence.
+
+As early as 1845 a separate guide-book for this place was published by
+J. H. Bransby. Now there are several.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Machynlleth= (pronounced roughly like 'Mahuntly,' and by the rustics
+very like 'Monkley') lies midway between Plynlimon and Cader Idris, and
+within reach of both, yet can hardly claim to be a centre for
+mountaineers. Of submontane walks and scenery it commands a surprising
+variety, having railway facilities in half a dozen directions. This
+makes it a capital place for a long stay, varied by an occasional night
+or two at places like Rhayader, Dolgelly, Barmouth, or Beddgelert. The
+best way of doing Aran Mawddwy is by way of Dinas Mawddwy, and the
+ascent of Cader Idris from Corris railway station, returning by way of
+Abergynolwyn, makes a most enjoyable day.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Nantlle=, once a very pretty place, is now little more than an
+intricate system of slate quarries. A low pass (Drws y Coed) separates
+it from Snowdon, of which Wilson took a celebrated picture from this
+side. There are some nice little climbs on both sides of the pass and on
+Garnedd Goch, which runs away to the southward of it.
+
+Nantlle has a station, but Penygroes, the junction, is so near as to
+make it a more convenient stopping-place. Anyone staying at Criccieth
+can make a good day by taking the train to Nantlle, and returning along
+Garnedd Goch or over Moel Hebog. Snowdon too is within easy reach.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Penygwrhyd.=--In Beddgelert Church is a monument 'to the memory of
+Harry Owen, for forty-four years landlord of the inn at Penygwrhyd and
+guide to Snowdon: born April 2, 1822; died May 5, 1891.'
+
+Harry Owen it was who did for Penygwrhyd what Will Ritson did for
+Wastdale Head and Seiler for Zermatt. Intellectually, perhaps, he was
+not the equal of either of the other two, but there was a
+straightforward cordiality about him which made all lovers of the
+mountains feel at once that in his house they had a home to which they
+could return again and again with ever renewed pleasure.
+
+The house stands at the foot of the east side of the Llanberis Pass, at
+the junction of the roads from Capel Curig (4 miles), Beddgelert (8
+miles), and Llanberis (6 miles), and at the central point of three
+mountain groups--Snowdon (the finest and boldest side), the Glyders, and
+Moel Siabod. The last is of small account, but the other two groups
+contain some--one may almost say most--of the best climbing and finest
+scenery in Wales. Most people come to the inn by way of Bettws y Coed
+and many from Llanberis; but by far the finest approach is that from
+Beddgelert, and by this way the first approach at any rate ought always
+to be made. Ascents and climbs innumerable may be made from here, and
+many valuable notes on climbs may be found here in a certain volume
+secured from the profane mob by lock and key.
+
+In the same volume also several sets of verses occur much above the
+ordinary tourist level, among them being a very smart study of the
+climbing class in the style of Walt Whitman, and a few telling
+alphabetic distichs of which _habitués_ will recognise the force.
+
+    K--for the Kitchen, where garments are dried;
+    L--for the Language we use when they're fried;
+    O--for the Owens, whom long may we see;
+    P--for the Pudding we call P.Y.G.
+    S is for Snowdon, that's seen from afar;
+    T--for the Tarts on the shelf in the bar.
+
+The visitors' book proper also contains entries of some interest,
+including some lines (given at length in the _Gossiping Guide_) written
+by Charles Kingsley, Tom Taylor, and Tom Hughes, chiefly remarkable for
+their breezy good temper. The lines are printed, together with a mass of
+very poor stuff taken from the same source, in a little book called
+_Offerings at the Foot of Snowdon_.[7] The inn and the Owens play an
+important part in Kingsley's novel _Two Years Ago_. Forty or fifty years
+ago there was a constant visitor at this inn who might have claimed the
+invention of the place as a climbing centre. He corresponded in
+profession, and also in age, to the Rev. James Jackson, the Cumbrian
+'Patriarch.' He had a mania for ridge-walking, or, as he termed it,
+'following the sky line.' His name I could never learn.
+
+  [7] Tremadoc, 1875.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Rhayader= (_The Waterfall_, i.e. of the river Wye, pronounced here
+'Rhay-' and not 'Rhy-,' as in North Wales) is a very convenient centre
+for much scenery which is of great interest to the geologically-minded
+mountaineer, though the hills are of no great height. The Cambrian
+Railway has a station here, and makes an expedition to the Brecon
+Beacons or to the very interesting Black Mountains a very simple matter,
+while on the way a good deal may be seen of two of the most beautiful
+rivers in Britain, the Wye and the Usk. Aberedw Rocks and Cwm Elan are
+quite near, and so is Nant Guillt, with its memories of Shelley, beloved
+of all who love the mountains, though perhaps few would have cared to be
+on the same rope with that somewhat erratic genius. Where the Wye enters
+the Vale of Rhayader there are some remarkably fine rocks (chiefly in
+the 'Lower Llandovery' formation). Mackintosh calls it 'a deep basin
+surrounded by very precipitous slopes, which on the side most distant
+from the river channel present one of the finest and loftiest rocky
+cliffs in the principality.' The Birmingham Water Works have influenced
+the town for good in one respect only: they have introduced a barber,
+who at the end of each week mows navvies' cheeks by the acre.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Snowdon Ranger=, a small inn on the west side of Snowdon, readily
+reached by rail from Carnarvon or coach from Beddgelert, or again by an
+easy and interesting walk over the low pass of Drws y Coed from
+Penygroes station. It commands one of the simplest ascents of Snowdon,
+but by no means the most interesting. Good climbing may be found near
+it on Clogwyndurarddu, on Mynydd Mawr, on both sides of Drws y Coed, and
+on the Garnedd Goch range, but none are on a very large scale.
+
+In the history of Welsh mountaineering it holds a place, having long
+been the most usual starting-point for the ascent of Snowdon, and all
+the early travellers came here. Cradock (1770) calls it 'a small
+thatched hut at the foot of the mountain (Snowdon), near a lake which
+they call Llyn Cychwhechlyn (i.e. Quellyn), which I leave you to
+pronounce as well as you are able. We procured a number of blooming
+country girls to divert us with their music and dancing.' Even these
+delights, however, could not keep travellers from drifting away towards
+Beddgelert--a change which, as readers of _Wild Wales_ will remember,
+had already become marked when Borrow had his interview with the Snowdon
+guide forty years ago. The early accounts often speak of this place as
+Bronyfedw (a name which still survives), and for many years there used
+to be a kind of 'personally conducted' (Hamer's) ascent of Snowdon from
+Carnarvon once a week by this route.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Tanybwlch.=--Wyndham, Pennant, and, indeed, nearly all the early
+explorers of Wales stayed at this very pleasant place. At that time the
+highroad from Dolgelly to Beddgelert and Carnarvon passed the door; but
+the railway having now superseded the post chaise has left the place
+somewhat out in the cold. It has, however, some assistance from the
+'toy' line to Ffestiniog, and is a pretty little place, though Moelwyn,
+Cynicht, Moel Siabod, and the Rhinogs are all the mountains which it
+can command. For those coming from England the best station is Maentwrog
+Road, on the G.W.R. line from Bala.
+
+
+
+
+WHERE TO CLIMB
+
+
+=Anglesey.=--The extreme flatness of the island perhaps gives an
+increased effect to its fine rock scenery about the Stacks, which will
+be respected by climbers as perhaps the earliest school of their art in
+Wales. An old description of the egg-takers here contains some
+interesting sentences which are not wholly devoid of point even for
+climbers of the present day. 'The gains bear no tolerable proportion to
+the danger incurred. The adventurers, having furnished themselves with
+every necessary implement, enter on the terrific undertaking. Two--for
+this is a trade in which co-partnership is absolutely necessary--take a
+station. He whose superior agility renders it eligible prepares for the
+rupestrian expedition. Dangerous employ! a slip of the foot or the hand
+would in an instant be fatal to both. To a stranger this occupation
+appears more dangerous than it really is. In persons habituated to
+bodily difficulty the nervous system becomes gradually braced, and the
+solids attain that state of rigidity which banishes irritability, while
+the mind, accustomed to danger, loses that timidity which frequently
+leads to the dreaded disaster. Fact demonstrates to what an extent
+difficulty and danger may be made subordinate to art and perseverance.'
+
+This is the voice of truth, but the solids nowadays (owing possibly to
+the fluids or to the want of them) do not banish their irritability
+completely.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Carnarvonshire.=--Both in the quality and the quantity of its climbs
+this county leaves the rest of Wales far behind. Its superiority is even
+more marked than that of Cumberland over the rest of England.
+
+Snowdon, the Glyders, and the Carnedds would alone be sufficient to
+establish this; but there are numbers of less important elevations which
+would have a great reputation in almost any other county.
+
+The chief mountain centres are Penygwrhyd, Beddgelert, Llanberis, and
+Snowdon Ranger, all four lying at the foot of Snowdon, Benglog (Ogwen
+Cottage), Capel Curig, and Ffestiniog.
+
+The appearance of the county must be greatly changed since Leland's
+time. He tells us that 'the best wood of Caernarvonshire is by Glinne
+Kledder and by Glin Llughy and by Capel Kiryk and at Llanperis. More
+upwarde be Eryri Hilles, and in them ys very little corne. If there were
+the Deere would destroy it.' The destruction of this wood has greatly
+injured the beauty of the valleys round Snowdon, Nant Gwynant being the
+only one where it remains in any quantity.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Penmaenmawr= (1,553 ft.) is far from being a difficult mountain. The
+ancient Britons had a fort on the top of it, and it was ascended 'by a
+person of quality in the reign of Charles II.,' but it is scarcely a
+paradox to say that it was the greatest obstacle to knowledge of Welsh
+mountains during last century. The highroad from Chester crossed it,
+and our ancestors used to go rolling off it down into the sea, and did
+not like it. Therefore a journey to Wales was a great and a rare feat.
+All the early travellers dilate upon its terrors. In 1795 Mr. T. Hucks,
+B.A., gives a ludicrous account of his ascent, which was actually made
+without a guide. 'We rashly took the resolution to venture up this
+stupendous mountain without a guide, and therefore unknowingly fixed
+upon the most difficult part to ascend, and consequently were
+continually impeded by a vast number of unexpected obstructions. At
+length we surmounted every danger and difficulty, and safely arrived at
+the top.... In the midst of my melancholy cogitations I fully expected
+that the genius of the mountain would have appeared to me in some
+formidable shape and have reproached me with rashly presuming to disturb
+the sacred silence of his solitary reign.' Penmaenmawr was not a
+frequented tourist resort in those days. The genius would not expect
+much sacred silence now. The writer knows of no continuous climb on the
+mountain, though he has often had a scramble on it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=The Carnedd Group.=--=Carnedd Dafydd= (3,426 ft.), said to have been
+named after David the brother of Prince Llewelyn, rises on the north of
+Llyn Ogwen and on the west of the river which flows from it. The view,
+looking southward across Llyn Ogwen at the bold northern front of the
+Glyder group, is one of the grandest in Wales. That to the north-west is
+to a great extent cut off by Carnedd Llewelyn. The usual
+starting-points are Bethesda, Ogwen Cottage, and Capel Curig, though
+strong walkers occasionally attack the mountain from the Conway valley
+on the west and from Aber on the sea coast.
+
+From Bethesda the most direct way to the summit is to steer south-east
+and straight at the mountain, which is full in view. The distance is
+3½ miles, and an active traveller, if by any accident he extricates
+himself speedily from Bethesda, may reach the summit in two hours. On
+the other hand he is quite as likely to find himself, at the end of the
+two hours, still wandering sadly up and down the by-lanes of that
+maze-like village. The natives are polite, and would willingly give any
+information; but they cannot speak English, and they do not possess the
+information.
+
+There is only one street which leads anywhere in particular, only one
+which can be known at sight and followed fearlessly when known. It is
+the Holyhead road, and to get from one house in Bethesda to another it
+is said that even the inhabitants find it safest to make for the
+Holyhead road at once, and thus secure an intelligible base of
+operations.
+
+The route up Carnedd Dafydd by way of Penyroleuwen begins with over two
+miles of this road, and is, consequently, a very sound opening. It is
+only necessary to turn off at Tynymaes, on the left hand, and strike up
+the hill and along the ridge to Braichddu, overlooking the tarn of
+Ffynnon y Lloer. A sharp turn is now made to the left along the
+shoulder, and the great cairn which marks the summit is soon reached.
+
+The route from Capel Curig is very easily found. Three and a half miles
+along the Bangor road, after crossing the river Llugwy, and just before
+a chapel, a path strikes off on the right-hand side towards a farmhouse.
+Half a mile along this path strike up the hill to the left, travelling
+at first about north by compass, and afterwards, as the hill is mounted,
+inclining more to the west.
+
+A less popular route, but perhaps shorter and more easily found in mist,
+and certainly more effective in point of scenery, leaves the highroad
+about a furlong short of Ogwen Lake. Pass a farm and follow a stream for
+a mile up to Ffynnon Lloer; from the head of the pool pick your way
+through some rough ground to the left hand up on to Braichddu, when the
+view of the Glyders bursts upon you suddenly with great effect, and, on
+turning to the right to make the final mount to the Carnedd, some good
+peeps may be had down the confused rocks of Craig yr Ysfa.
+
+From Ogwen Cottage the last route is often the best, especially when the
+party contains some weak members, as the direct line from the foot of
+the lake is exceedingly steep.
+
+The climbs on this mountain are practically limited to Cefnysgolion Duon
+on the north and Craig yr Ysfa on the west, overlooking Nantffrancon.
+
+_Cefnysgolion Duon_--i.e. 'The Black Ladders,' by which name it is
+commonly known--might be forced into meaning 'The Black Schools,' and
+this sense greatly bewildered a learned native, who observes, 'It is
+impossible to imagine a spot less suited to the operations of the
+school-master.' But we can assure him that as a school for climbers it
+leaves little to be desired.
+
+Perhaps 'Black Pinnacles' would be a better rendering, 'ysgol' being
+often used in that sense, the comparison referring to a step-ladder,
+seen sideways, so as to present the shape of an isosceles triangle.
+
+The crags are on the south side of Cwm Llafar, the great hollow between
+the two Carnedds, and there is nothing to do but to follow up from
+Bethesda the stream which flows down it. In other words, the true line
+is almost parallel to and about half a mile north of the most direct
+route to the top of Carnedd Dafydd. As advance is made the slope between
+the two routes becomes more and more rocky, and when the Ladders
+themselves come fairly in view the scene is a very grand one. There are
+two conspicuous gullies, divided by a stretch of rock which looks almost
+unclimbable. The right-hand or western gully is very steep, and having
+often quite a stream in it, is then decidedly hard, and requires
+considerable care in winter. The other gully slopes away sharply to the
+left, behind a slight projection, and has only one pitch in it, but that
+is really good. Two ways here present themselves of climbing along the
+left-hand wall at two different levels, neither of them too easy, or
+else the gully may be deserted altogether, as the left bank forms a
+ridge which offers easy but delightful climbing all over it, the hold
+suddenly becoming magnificent. East of this ridge the hold is still
+good, but the rocks dwindle in size, until, in the centre of the col
+between the Carnedds, they wholly disappear.
+
+This noble crag has never been much frequented by climbers, though in
+1879 about a dozen members of the Alpine Club took it on their way from
+Bangor to Capel Curig.[8]
+
+  [8] _Alpine Journal_, vol. ix. p. 384.
+
+Some years before 1869[9] a Birmingham Scripture Reader fell over it,
+and was, of course, killed.
+
+  [9] Mackintosh, p. 809.
+
+_Craig yr Ysfa._--These rugged and in parts highly romantic rocks have
+attracted but few climbers. A hardworking group of Bangor enthusiasts
+have done about all the work that has been done here. In November 1894
+J. M. A. T., H. H., H. E., and J. S., quitting the road just beyond the
+eighth milestone from Bangor, reached, in twenty minutes, the mouth of a
+gully, broad except where it narrows into a gorge, about half-way up.
+The climbing on the left of the stream is quite easy, on its right less
+so; but in either case the stream has to be abandoned at the first
+waterfall, which is quite impracticable when there is any quantity of
+water falling. One may climb out to the right by a small tributary
+gully, or up the buttress of rock to the right, and thus turn the lower
+fall as well as the upper fall, which is a small edition of the Devil's
+Kitchen. Near the edge of the cliff, on the left of the gorge, is a
+large tabular rock, which forms the postern to a narrow passage back
+into the gully, which soon broadens out and leaves a choice of routes;
+the left-hand branch should be taken by preference, as it contains a
+rather difficult pitch, above which the ascent to the top of the ridge
+is simple.
+
+[Illustration: A GULLY ON CRAIG YR YSFA]
+
+A second gully lies a few hundred yards nearer Ogwen Lake, and
+contains, besides cascades, two distinct waterfalls, of which the first
+may be surmounted by a small but not easy chimney close to it on the
+left, which is also the side for attacking the second difficulty. Here a
+necessary grass ledge above the level of the top of the fall was
+loosened by heavy rain, and stopped the progress of the above party, who
+completed the ascent by climbing out to the left.
+
+The craggy portion is just over one mile long. Towards the head of Nant
+Ffrancon the rocks come lower, and are more fantastic, affording a great
+variety of fine problems, though few continuous climbs.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Carnedd Llewelyn= (3,484 ft.) is the second highest of the Welsh
+mountains. The last Government Survey gave it a slight lift, and at the
+same time slightly reduced Snowdon, causing a rumour to go abroad,
+alarming to conservative minds, that the latter had forfeited its pride
+of place. This would have been a real misfortune, as the old-established
+favourite is beyond all question the finest mountain of the two. Only
+imagine the feelings of a poor peak abandoned in its old age, without
+cheap trippers, without huts, without a railway, without Sir Edward
+Watkin. The blow would have been too cruel! The near views from Carnedd
+Llewelyn are not remarkable. They consist mainly of the crags of Yr Elen
+and those of the grand north face of Carnedd Dafydd, which, however,
+practically conceal the Glyders, and these again cut off most of
+Snowdon. But the seaward view is very fine, and with regard to the very
+distant places, such as the Cumberland Fells, this mountain has a great
+advantage over Snowdon both 'to see and to be seen.' Perhaps the extra
+7½ miles make the difference, but it is a fact that for once that
+Snowdon is to be made out from Scafell or Great Gable, Carnedd Llewelyn
+can be seen half a dozen times.
+
+For the ascent Bethesda is the nearest. Several ways present themselves,
+and whichever the traveller takes he will think that he has taken the
+boggiest. One way is straight up Cwm Llafar to the ridge
+(Bwlchcyfrwydrum) between the two Carnedds, or inclining left one mile
+short of this ridge one soon reaches the ridge connecting our mountain
+with Yr Elen, on the other side of which are some fine crags. The ascent
+by way of Cwm Caseg, the next valley to the north, is equally simple and
+affords a good view of these crags from below. In thick weather the long
+lonely walk from Aber is an education in itself to the mountain rambler,
+while from Talycafn station, on the north-west, a good road comes to
+within a mile and a half E.S.E. of the summit. The Capel Curig ascent is
+perhaps the least interesting of all; by it the two Carnedds are usually
+combined. Either the ascent or the return should be made along the Pen
+Helig ridge, with regard to the terrors of which the guide-books have
+used language as exaggerated as the descriptions of Striding Edge on
+Helvellyn. In winter, however, there is sometimes pretty work here.
+
+_Climbs._--A few rocks will be found round the remarkable tarns of
+Llyndulyn and Melynllyn, on the north-east side of the mountain, and on
+the west side of Llyn Eigiau. Better still are the rocks near where the
+Talycafn road ends by a slate quarry in the rocks of Elicydu
+(apparently marked as Pen Helig by the Ordnance Surveyors); but best of
+all is the north-east side of Yr Elen, where there is a sort of small
+edition of the Black Ladders, with the same sunless aspect, so that it
+often keeps its snow in the same way till quite late in the year. In
+winter, however, the grand cwm which lies due east of the Carnedd offers
+splendid snow scenes and snow work.
+
+Some years ago a quarryman was lost in the snow, and an upright stone on
+the north ridge of the mountain marks the spot. One of the earliest
+ascents of the mountain was that made in 1630 by Johnson, who evidently
+had the spirit of the mountaineer in him, for he pressed his guide to
+take him to the more precipitous places, alleging the love of rare
+plants. That worthy, however, declined to go, alleging the fear of
+eagles. Mackintosh too had a difficulty here with his guide during a
+winter's day excursion. But his fears seem to have been entirely without
+reasonable cause, and he was not so near to being robbed or murdered as
+he at one time fancied. Mr. Paterson's charming book _Below the Snow
+Line_ describes the route from Llanfairfechan in wild weather.
+
+In the _Philosophical Transactions_ for 1771 will be found noted an
+ascent which satisfied the climber and his water-level that the summit
+was higher than that of Snowdon. Pennant too made the ascent, but came
+to an opposite conclusion on this point.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Elider Group.=--=Carnedd y Filiast= (i.e. 'Cairn of the Female
+Greyhound') is a feature on the west side of Nant Ffrancon, on account
+of the very remarkable slabs which it exhibits on that side. A hundred
+and twenty-five years ago Pennant was told here that 'if the fox in
+extreme danger takes over them in wet weather he falls down and
+perishes.' Certainly they are dangerous enough to a less sure-footed
+animal--man--and are best left alone, especially when there is any ice
+about. The nearest place from which to start is Bethesda. Another hill
+of the same name lies to the north of Bala.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Foelgoch.=--A spur running north-west from Glyder Fawr forms the
+western bank of Nant Ffrancon, and nearly three miles along this ridge
+is Foelgoch (i.e. 'Red Hill'). It has a steep western side towards the
+head of Cwm Dudodyn, and on the other side a very steep rocky recess
+facing Llyn Idwal. Llanberis and Bethesda stations are about equally
+distant. From the former place it is seldom visited, except before or
+after the ascent of Elidyr Fawr.
+
+On August 6, 1886, E. K. writes, 'There is excellent scrambling to be
+had about this mountain, and some really difficult work.'
+
+On September 29, 1894, a party of three climbed from Nant Ffrancon.
+
+The break in the ridge may be reached either by following the ridge
+itself or from the cwms on either side of it. The ascent thence to the
+summit offers easy but steep climbing if the crest of the ridge be
+scrupulously adhered to. Passing over the summit of Y Garn the descent
+was made down the southern ridge of Cwm Clyd, which gives a good
+scramble along its barren arête.
+
+[Illustration: TWLL DU
+
+(looking down through it to Llyn Idwal and Llyn Ogwen)]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Y Garn= (3,104 ft.), near the head of Nant Ffrancon, on the west side,
+is little visited, but has some very good rock on it. Benglog is much
+the nearest place. The well-known Twll Du may almost be said to be on
+it, and is practically the division between it and Glyder Fawr.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Twll Du= (i.e. 'Black Pit'), commonly called the 'Devil's Kitchen,' is
+a remarkable chasm in the line of cliff which faces the head of Llyn
+Idwal on the south-west, being a northerly continuation of Glyder Fawr.
+From Benglog, which is much the nearest place, there is little choice of
+route; either side of Llyn Idwal will do, but the west side is rather
+less boggy. Keeping well up you pass the head of Idwal until you bring
+it on with the head of Llyn Ogwen, and then about 500 ft. above the
+former you find yourself at the foot of this grand fissure. In dry
+weather all but the highest patch can be easily ascended; after rain it
+is sometimes difficult to enter the place at all. In the summer of 1893,
+which was extraordinarily dry, a young fellow claimed to have done it
+single-handed, but it was supposed by some that he had mistaken the
+place. During the intense cold of March 1895 an extraordinary _tour de
+force_ was accomplished here by J. M. A. T. and H. H., who cut their way
+up the frozen waterfall, and thus accomplished what was probably the
+first ascent of this formidable chasm. The height of the final pitch in
+its normal condition is about 53 ft., measured from the top of the block
+down to the surface of the pool below. When the climb above described
+was made, no doubt much of this height was filled up by snow and ice,
+yet the remainder was not surmounted in less than 7 hours, so that the
+average rate of progress must have been about 5 ft. per hour. The total
+time from Benglog to the top of the Kitchen was 8½ hours. The party
+descended in the dark to Llanberis in 3 hours more, having left Ogwen in
+the morning at 10 o'clock. Those who approach from Upper Llanberis by
+way of Cwm Patric or from Penygwrhyd over the shoulder west of Glyder
+Fawr, and, in fact, all who do not come by way of Benglog, have to
+descend the high cliff out of which the Kitchen is cut. The only
+convenient passage starts about a furlong to the south of the Kitchen,
+and is very awkward at night or in mist. It begins as a wide, straight
+trough (the largest and most regular of two or three), which slopes
+gently downwards and towards Benglog. Presently it takes a more
+northerly direction and becomes a steep, wide slope of scree following
+the line of cliff to the great blocks of fallen stones which mark the
+mouth of the chasm. An active man can return from the lower to the upper
+exit of the chimney in ten minutes, and the descent could, of course, be
+done in even less time. In dry weather there is but one slight
+difficulty before reaching the grand crux at the head. It can be climbed
+by passing into a cavern and up to the left, but the easier, and after
+heavy rain the only practicable, way is up the side-wall just to the
+left of the choke-stone on to a broad ledge. A little way above this a
+huge slab, fallen from above, is seen leaning against the wall on the
+right. The passage to the right of it can always be made, however strong
+the stream on the left hand may be. The climb to the top of this slab is
+very neat, and, besides affording a capital view of the situation, is
+about all the consolation left for the ardent explorer, who will seldom
+succeed in penetrating any further. There are, however, two possible
+lines of advance, both on the left-hand wall, one well in under the
+colossal cap-stone, which hangs 50 ft. overhead, and the other outside,
+nearly opposite the great slab. By the latter route 20 ft. or 30 ft. can
+be climbed with some little difficulty, but the traverse to the right
+would no doubt prove a very ticklish operation. Cliffe, in June 1843,
+penetrated to the foot of the final obstacle, and gives a very good
+description of it.
+
+[Illustration: TWLL DU
+
+(looking up from within)]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Glyder Group.=--=Glyder Fach= (3,262 ft.), though called 'the lesser,'
+is far finer than its brother peak, so much so that many have found
+great difficulty in believing that the Ordnance Surveyors were right in
+ascribing 17 ft. of superiority to the more lumpy western summit. One
+might be tempted to build a 20-ft. cairn but for the fear of spoiling
+the great glory of Glyder Fach, the chaos of rocks on its summit. The
+present cairn was not in existence ten years ago, and must have been
+built about 1887.
+
+[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF
+
+THE GLYDERS
+
+AND
+
+TRYFAEN]
+
+_Ascents._--From Benglog the most interesting ascent is by the Gribin
+ridge, between Idwal and Bochllwyd. It involves a slight descent (about
+150 ft.) after reaching the ridge, but it is less fatiguing than that by
+Bwlch Tryfaen and the steep rough screes on the right hand beyond it.
+From Penygwrhyd you mount behind the inn, crossing the bog as you best
+can towards a wall which goes straight up the hill. When the direction
+of the wall changes you make a compromise midway between the old and
+the new, and very soon come on to a line of cairns which continues right
+on to the boggy tableland above. Tryfaen top now appears over the hill,
+and as soon as it is fairly lifted you bear to the left and up a stony
+slope to the cairn. From Capel Curig it is a simple matter to follow the
+ridge of Cefn y Capel, but quicker to keep along the highroad past the
+Llynian Mymbyr, and then strike up a grass slope to the right. As often
+as not both Glyders are ascended in one expedition; the dip between the
+two is only 300 ft., the distance is under a mile, and stones are the
+only obstacles.
+
+[Illustration: SUMMIT OF GLYDER FACH]
+
+_Climbs._--The north face of this mountain is remarkably fine and
+contains all the climbing there is. At the east end is the bristly ridge
+leading down to Bwlch Tryfaen. This is stimulating, but not difficult.
+In the centre of the face there is a large gully, ascended in November
+1894 by J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E. They did not find it necessary to
+use the rope. The lofty pitch at the foot of the eastern gully is
+decidedly hard. (J. M. A. T.) In May 1888 W. E. C., A. E., E. B., and E.
+K. found and ascended a gully close under the west side of Castell
+Gwynt, and add that they reached Penygwrhyd by way of Cwm Graianog. The
+last statement is very mysterious. About the Castell itself (the rugged
+pile of rocks between the two Glyders, marked by its slender outstanding
+'sentinel'), and about the summit of the Fach, there are some good
+scrambles on a small scale.
+
+[Illustration: CASTELL GWYNT AND GLYDER FAWR]
+
+Directly under the top stone is the minimum thermometer, which has been
+kept there for some years.[10] The most interesting thing on the whole
+mountain is undoubtedly the pile of stones on the top. According to the
+bard Taliesin it is the burial-place of a mighty warrior, one Ebediw. If
+a kind of Stonehenge was erected there to his memory and afterwards got
+upset by an earthquake it might account for present appearances. Edward
+Lhwyd, the great antiquary, was particularly struck by them 200 years
+ago, and his description and remarks are equally applicable to-day.
+
+  [10] See the _Journal of the Royal Meteorological Society_ for
+  April 1893, xix. No. 86, for a summary of the temperatures thus
+  recorded.
+
+[Illustration: ROCKS ON GLYDER FACH]
+
+'On the utmost top of the Glyder,' he says, 'I observed prodigious heaps
+of stones, many of them of the largeness of those of Stonehenge, but of
+all the irregular shapes imaginable, and all lying in such confusion as
+the ruins of any building can be supposed to do.... Had they been in a
+valley I had concluded they had fallen from the neighbouring rocks ...
+but, being on the highest part of the hill, they seemed to me much more
+remarkable.' He goes on to remark upon a precipice which has not been
+identified (see _Esgair Felen_). 'On the west side of the same hill
+there is, amongst many others, one naked precipice (near or one of the
+Trigfylchau, but distinguished by no particular name), as steep as any I
+have seen, but so adorned with numerous equidistant pillars, and these
+again slightly crossed at certain joints. 'Twas evident that the gullies
+or interstices were occasioned by a continued dropping of water down
+this cliff.' Trigfylchau, by the way (i.e. 'Twisting Gaps'), is a name
+which does not seem to be known at the present day.
+
+Lhwyd's description fired the curiosity of the travellers who explored
+Wales nearly a century later, and the amusing part of it is that they
+could not find this wonderful mountain, or even hear of it from the
+intelligent natives.
+
+Cradock (1770) found an aged man, who told him that the mountain was
+'now called the Wythwar (Wyddfa),' which stands 'a few miles south of
+the parish of Clynog;' and H. P. Wyndham went further by identifying it
+with 'the mountain called Ryvil in Speed's map' (i.e. Yr Eifl). It shows
+how little the natives knew about their mountains until the travellers
+came and taught them. Pennant made the ascent, and gives a picture of
+the summit. Bingley also went up, and gives a good description.
+
+Kingsley's fine description, in _Two Years Ago_, of Elsley's ascent
+really applies mainly to Glyder Fach, though he only mentions the Fawr.
+Elsley's descent, by the way, was apparently into Bochllwyd by way of
+Castell Gwynt.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: GLYDER FAWR, NORTH FACE]
+
+=Glyder Fawr= (3,279 ft.).--The meaning of the name is a mystery. One
+Welsh scholar gravely tells us that the real name is Clydar, which at
+once yields the obviously suitable meaning of a 'well-shaded ploughed
+ground.' Either of these epithets would be quite as appropriate to the
+Sahara itself, for the two Glyders are among the barest and rockiest
+mountains in all Wales. The two roads which lead from Capel Curig, one
+over the Pass of Llanberis and the other through Nant Ffrancon to
+Bangor, enclose between them the whole of the Glyder group, forming a
+singular figure, which recalls Menenius Agrippa's description of the
+Second Citizen as 'the great toe of this assembly.' The toe is slightly
+bent; Penygwrhyd is the knuckle, Capel Curig the tip of the nail, and
+Benglog (the head of Nant Ffrancon) is just in the inside bend. The
+highest point of the group lies practically in a straight line with
+Snowdon and Carnedd Llewelyn, and, roughly speaking, midway between
+them. Of Snowdon it commands a profoundly impressive view, and is in
+turn itself best seen from the Carnedds.
+
+Both Glyders are very frequently ascended from Penygwrhyd, Llanberis,
+Capel Curig, and Ogwen.
+
+The simplest way up is from the top of the Llanberis Pass, from which a
+ridge leads to the summit. This is, perhaps, the best way if the start
+be made from any place not on the north side, though from Penygwrhyd the
+route may be boggily abbreviated by making up the little valley to the
+north-west. From Ogwen the usual ascent passes near Twll Du, though the
+ridge separating the Idwal and Bochllwyd lakelets is sometimes chosen,
+and certainly affords a greater variety of fine views.
+
+Climbing on this mountain is practically confined to its northern face,
+and even there very little has been done. There are also a few rocks on
+the west side. The climbing-book at Penygwrhyd contains very few
+references to it. At Easter in 1884 H. and C. S. mention that they
+enjoyed fine glissades down the snow slopes on the north-west side to
+Llyn y Cwn, but the first real climb recorded therein is that of the big
+gully in the north face, made on November 25, 1894, by J. M. A. T., H.
+H., and H. E. From the far end of Llyn Idwal a long scree leads up to
+the mouth of the gully, which may be identified from a distance by the
+pitch which blocks it about half-way up and a broad strip of grass
+outside it on the west. The point to make for is the head of a wall
+which runs up from the extreme south end of the llyn to the corner of a
+huge mass of bare smooth rock. If the traveller reaches this point
+without being engulfed in the boggy ground which fringes the llyn he
+will now continue in the same general direction as the wall, and soon
+sees the gully just before him. A kind of trough, probably produced by
+weathering of the rock, is now seen on the left, and this, as it
+appeared more interesting than the steep grass of the central part of
+the gully, was followed at first by the above-mentioned party. The
+trough is very easy at the foot, and has good holds, which higher up
+incline outwards, and become less and less prominent until at last
+progress becomes a question of delicacy and circumspection. Before the
+trough came entirely to an end the party traversed into the gully, but
+even there found the ascent to the pitch far from easy. Utilising the
+full length of their 80-ft. rope, and moving only one at a time, they
+reached the cave under the big pitch. Here it appeared hopeless to
+climb out on either side, and recourse had to be taken to engineering of
+the same kind which was successfully put in practice some years ago on
+Dow Crags, in Lancashire, by a very scientific band of brothers. Similar
+success crowned the efforts of this party, and brilliant gymnastics on
+the part of the leader landed them safely at the top of this difficulty.
+From this point the remainder of the climb has a deceptively easy
+appearance. Some 80 ft. higher up the difficulties begin again, and
+continue up to a small pitch just below the top. On one stretch it was
+found necessary to adopt a compromise between the wisdom of the serpent
+and the aimlessness of the crab, advancing by lateral jerks in a
+semi-recumbent attitude. Possibly these extreme measures would not have
+been necessary but for the fact that on this occasion the conclusion of
+a spell of three weeks of incessant rain was chosen as a suitable
+opportunity for attacking this face of the Glyder. It was the opinion of
+the party that the climb--at any rate in its then condition--is
+incontestably more difficult than that of the western buttress of
+Lliwedd. The time taken was 4 hours, including a short halt for
+luncheon.
+
+[Illustration: WESTERN GULLY IN NORTH FACE OF GLYDER FAWR]
+
+This gully is the more westerly of two. The other one was climbed in May
+1895 by J. M. A. T., H. H., and W. E. One of the party says of it, 'We
+soon came to some rather difficult rocks; we climbed them close under
+the right-hand wall--a really stiff little bit. The gully here is still
+quite broad, and on the left side of it we saw another way, which looked
+much easier. We found no special difficulty in the jammed stone which
+looks from below such a formidable obstacle. Two of us climbed it on
+the right; the third man circumvented it on the left. From this point to
+the summit is excellent throughout, the rocks being steep, the holds
+strong, well defined, and most conveniently distributed. In my opinion
+it is the best thing on the Glyders, and it can be done by a single
+man.' Still further east a narrow crack gives a very steep but easy rock
+staircase, while west of the gully first described is another with two
+pitches, of which the lower is harder and the upper easier than they
+look. The 60 ft. just above the latter are climbed by means of slight
+rugosities in the left-hand wall. It is somewhat curious that when, in
+February 1873, Glyder Fawr was crossed from Ogwen by way of Twll Du,
+with John Roberts as guide, it was recorded in the _Alpine Journal_[11]
+as something of a feat and something of an eccentricity. Twenty years
+have made a great change, and now, about Christmas or Easter, the snow
+on these hills is marked by tracks in many directions.
+
+  [11] Vol. vi. p. 195.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: LLYN IDWAL
+
+  _a_, The gullies of Glyder Fawr.
+  _b_, Descent to the foot of Twll Du.
+  _c_, Twll Du.]
+
+=Esgair Felen= (i.e. 'The Yellow Shank').--In August 1893 G. W. de T.
+found very good rocks and gullies on this shoulder of Glyder Fawr.
+Ascending from just above the cromlech stone in Llanberis Pass, the
+buttress immediately above can be climbed on the right or south-west
+side. The upper half may be climbed by a narrow gully, too narrow at
+first to enter, and giving little hold for hands or feet, and that
+little not sound. Apparently the leader climbed up a little way, and
+then the rest of the party climbed up the leader. They found good
+climbing without special difficulty among the rocks on the top of the
+great gully in the centre.
+
+It is somewhere in this neighbourhood that we must look for the
+mysterious precipice of which Edward Lhwyd wrote two hundred years ago
+as being strikingly columnar in structure, and possibly identical with
+'one of the Tregvylchau or Treiglvylcheu.' He says it is part of the
+Glyder, and faces west. Perhaps it is about the east side of Cwm Patric.
+As seen from well down the Llanberis Pass these rocks have a very
+striking appearance.
+
+The term 'esgair' is very commonly applied to long straight projections
+from higher mountains. Instances of its use are E. Weddar, E. Yn-Eira,
+E. Geiliog, E. Hir, and E. Galed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: TRYFAEN FROM THE EAST
+
+(Sketched by Colin B. Phillip)]
+
+=Tryfaen= (3,010 ft.), not to be confounded with the hill of the same
+name on the Llanberis side of Snowdon, or the other near Bettws Garmon,
+is the most remarkable rock mountain in Wales; it has two pillar stones
+on its summit, from which it is often said that the name (= 'three
+rocks') is derived. In answer to this it is enough to point out that the
+assumed third stone is not there, and could not have disappeared without
+a trace, while the name would equally well mean 'three peaks,' which the
+mountain certainly has when viewed from either east or west. The Welsh
+dictionaries give a word 'tryfan' with the sense of 'anything spotted
+through,' and, whether or not this has anything to do with the origin of
+the name, the component rocks certainly are quartz-speckled in a most
+extraordinary manner. The mountain is practically a ridge of rock
+running in a southerly direction from the head of Llyn Ogwen towards
+Glyder Fach, from which it is separated by a sharp dip, Bwlch Tryfaen.
+This dip, which may be reached either from Cwm Bochllwyd on the west or
+from Cwm Tryfaen on the east, offers by far the easiest ascent of the
+mountain. The best starting-point for Tryfaen is Ogwen Cottage, at
+Benglog, from which Llynbochllwyd is reached in 25 and the said dip in
+45 minutes; so that, if need were, the whole height (2,000 ft.) and
+distance (1½ mile) to the summit could be attained within the hour.
+From Capel Curig, on the other hand, there is a good hour's walking
+before the highroad is left, beyond Gallt y Gogof, which Borrow calls
+Allt y Gôg (Cuckoo Cliff), and even then the traveller has about as far
+to go as if he were starting from Benglog. Most of the Tryfaen climbs
+being on the east side they can be reached from Capel Curig with much
+less exertion than from Penygwrhyd, the route from which involves a
+long, rugged ascent, hot after the sun has risen and ankle-breaking
+after it has set.
+
+_Climbs._--These are extraordinarily abundant, and the hold is nearly
+everywhere gritty and good. The most popular climbs are:
+
+1. The east side, including especially the two gullies on either side of
+the summit known as the North and South Gullies.
+
+2. The north ridge up from the head of Llyn Ogwen.
+
+3. The west side.
+
+_The South Gully_, climbed by R. W. (1887). The first ascent noticed in
+the _Book of Penygwrhyd_ being that of H. G. G. and W. in 1890. On
+September 5, 1891, H. G. G. and E. B. T. offered some clear notes on
+the subject, to the following effect: The first difficulty consists of
+three or four jammed stones, each slightly overhanging the one beneath,
+with a total height of about 10 ft. It can be passed by keeping to the
+right close to the obstacle, but would not be easy in wet weather for
+any climber single-handed. At the place where the gully divides the
+left-hand or nearer division is not difficult. The broad division was
+found impracticable by a party of four on September 4, 1891, the large
+smooth rocks at the top being very wet. This place was climbed in 1890
+by Messrs. G. and W. by keeping to the extreme right close to the wall
+of the gully, and then returning along a narrow ledge. It was an awkward
+place. There is nothing above where the two gullies unite that offers
+any real difficulty.
+
+The North Gully is the more difficult of the two if the immediate centre
+is to be followed; but it is always practicable to break out on the face
+to the right. The difficulties of the South Gully are not so severe, but
+such as they are they must be climbed, as there is no lateral escape.
+
+Under date of June 9, 1894, a very clear account is given by J. M. A.
+T., J. R. S., and H. E. At the first obstacle the first man climbed up
+into the hole formed by the projection of the topmost rock, but, as the
+next beneath slopes outwards and downwards, found it impossible to
+relinquish a crouching posture. The pitch was abandoned. The right-hand
+rocks close by were taken, and the gully rejoined without difficulty. At
+the fork the northern branch was chosen. It can scarcely be called a
+gully; the water trickles down over the crags in several places, but
+there is no main or well-defined channel. A pinnacle is soon seen on the
+right, and here the climbing becomes difficult; the footholds are far
+apart, and the small tufts of grass, which were then wet and slippery,
+cannot be trusted. The course taken was to the extreme left, and as far
+as possible from the pinnacle, and in this respect it differs from that
+taken by Messrs. H. G. G. and W. in 1890. A firm, flat grass-covered
+shelf, at least a yard square, is seen in a straight line up above, and
+as soon as the first man has reached this a rope can be used to
+advantage. A steep rock some 12 ft. in height and of ordinary difficulty
+remains, and the climb thence to the summit is quite simple. By keeping
+to the left a cavern is reached, the further end of which opens like a
+trap door upon the summit; this interesting method of concluding the
+ascent should not be missed.
+
+On August 25, 1892, G. B. B. with Mr. and Mrs. T. R. climbed the five
+pitches of the South Gully, _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_, _e_; _a_ by the
+right-hand wall, _b_ in the centre, _c_ by divergence to the right-hand
+branch and return to the left over a narrow ledge, _d_ and _e_ in the
+centre or slightly on one side of the face. The gully was never left.
+Time, about 90 minutes.
+
+_North Gully._--This appears to have been climbed in 1888 by R. W. and
+T. W. Writing on September 5, 1891, H. G. G. and E. B. T. gave the
+following hints:--
+
+The first difficulty is at the bottom, below the level of any part of
+the South Gully, and might easily be missed if the horizontal track be
+followed. On August 30, 1891, these gentlemen found the middle of this
+(after very wet weather) quite impracticable, and the smooth rock on
+the right hand, lying at a very high angle, was also wet and very
+difficult. Either might possibly be passed in a dry season, the rock
+almost certainly. The next point of note is a very large lodged stone.
+Going under this they passed through the hole above, one climbing on the
+other's shoulder and afterwards giving him help from above. The passage
+was not easy.
+
+The next difficulty is made up of two lodged stones about 10 ft. apart.
+The first might be passed in dry weather. A tempting ledge to the left
+was climbed without result; ultimately they rounded the obstacle by
+keeping to the right.
+
+On September 19 W. E. C., H. R. B., and M. K. S. ascended the North
+Gully. They describe it as containing seven pitches, two of which are
+caverns. They believed that this gully had only once been climbed clean
+before--namely, in the autumn of 1888, by Messrs. R. W. and T. W.
+
+On April 1, 1892, H. B. D., F. W. G., and A. M. M., with Mrs. D. and
+Mrs. C., ascended the North Gully in 2 hours 10 minutes. The last pitch
+gave some trouble.
+
+In August 1892 W. H. P. and G. B. B. climbed all the pitches of the
+North Gully clean, taking the sixth from the bottom by the right side
+and the rocks straight to the summit stones, from where the gully
+divides. Time, 91 minutes. There is a singular difference of opinion
+among climbers as to the relative difficulty of these two climbs.
+Varying conditions of rocks and climbers may partly account for this.
+Without pretending to decide the matter either way the writer would
+give it as his experience that unusual conditions more readily affect
+the southern for evil and the northern for good. For instance, wet or
+ice makes the former very nasty without altering the latter to the same
+extent, while really deep and good snow moderately improves the former
+but converts the latter into a delusion and a mockery, for it ceases
+altogether to be a climb at all, and becomes a mere snow walk. Even then
+it is worth doing if it were only to see the wonderful convoluted
+strata, in the case of more than one great block imitating the rings in
+the trunk of a tree.
+
+_Nor'-Nor' Gully._--On September 18, 1891, Messrs. W. E. C., G. S., and
+M. K. S. ascended a gully leading on to the north ridge of Tryfaen just
+to the north of the most northerly of the three peaks. The gully
+contains three pretty pitches, all of which were climbed, but two of
+them can be turned.
+
+There is yet a fourth gully, still further north, but it has only one
+obstacle in it, and more scree than anyone can possibly want. So much
+attention has been devoted to these gullies during the last few years
+that the ridges which separate them have been unduly neglected. To the
+writer at least they have always seemed to offer better climbing than
+any of the gullies, and that of a kind which is very much less common.
+The ridges on either side of the North Gully are especially fine, and
+would satisfy the most exacting but for one thing, and that is that the
+hold is almost too good.
+
+_The North Ridge_, from the head of Llyn Ogwen, is of very imposing
+appearance, and was long spoken of with bated breath. In reality it is a
+fine but very simple and safe approach to the summit. The gluttonous
+climbers of the present day will probably complain that it is not a
+climb at all, but, though the difficulties, such as they are, can all be
+turned, the more enterprising members of a party can always find
+abundant outlets for their energies in numerous wayside problems.
+
+Some of the rocks are very fantastic in shape; one projecting
+horizontally bears a resemblance to a crocodile and can be easily
+recognised from the east. Highly crystalline quartz veins render the
+rock surfaces even rougher than they would otherwise be, and in a few
+places the face of the rock is covered with egg-like projections, each
+containing a core of quartz. At a little distance they look like huge
+barnacles; their real nature may be left to the geologists.
+
+On reaching the heads of the principal gullies the climber will fall in
+with some capital rocks on or beside his path along the ridge. At the
+very top he cannot fail even in mist to recognise the two upright
+rectangular stones, which are so conspicuous from afar. The feat of
+jumping from one to the other, by the performance of which Mr. Bingley's
+friend made that eminent traveller's 'blood chill with horror' nearly a
+hundred years ago, is not as difficult as it has been represented to be,
+and the danger of falling over the precipice in case of failure is
+purely imaginary. The unskilful leaper would merely fall on to the rough
+stones at the base of the pillars. Of the two jumps, that from north to
+south is the easier. Bingley's guide, perhaps anxious to cap the Saxon's
+feat, told him that 'a female of an adjoining parish was celebrated for
+having often performed this daring leap.' Large as the pillars are it is
+difficult to believe that they were placed in the position they occupy
+by unassisted nature; they seem too upright, too well squared, and too
+level-topped; with a cross-piece on the top they would form a
+nobly-placed 'trilithon,' of which any 'dolmen-builder' might be proud.
+
+_The West Side._--A great part of this is occupied by a series of huge
+slabs, which have been compared by F. H. B. to Flat Crags on Bow Fell.
+In places luxuriant heather artfully conceals sudden drops and rolling
+stones on account of which several tempting descents on this side will
+prove annoying. The only important gully is well seen from Benglog. To
+reach it strike south-east by the highroad at a point about half a mile
+east of Benglog. About half-way up the gully trends away to the left,
+and comes out at a deep notch in the summit ridge. Excellent scrambling
+again may be found by climbing up eastward from the shore of Bochllwyd.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: TRYFAEN FROM THE NORTH-WEST.]
+
+=Moel Siabod= (2,860 ft.) is ascended most easily from Capel Curig, but
+Dolwyddelan and Penygwrhyd are only slightly more distant, though
+considerably more boggy. The ascent is worth making, for the sake of the
+excellent view of Snowdon. The east side is by far the most abrupt, and
+here a few good crags are found. From this side also the mountain looks
+its best, but even seen from the west, the tamer side, it is,
+especially when snow-clad and lit by the setting sun, a remarkably
+effective feature in the landscape.
+
+Readers of 'Madoc,' if such indeed there be, may remember that Southey
+was benighted on the hills around Dolwyddelan. In that episode Moel
+Siabod may well have played a part.
+
+About the year 1830 Mr. Philip Homer was benighted on it, and died of
+exhaustion. Mention of this accident is made both by Roscoe (1836) and
+by Cliffe, who says he heard many details from an eye-witness. The body
+was taken to Capel Curig and buried there.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Snowdon= (3,560 ft.) is the loftiest peak in this island south of
+Scotland, and one of the most beautiful that is to be seen anywhere. The
+name seems to have originally described a whole district which the Welsh
+called Craig Eryri (variously rendered 'rock of eagles' and 'rock of
+snow'). The peak itself is called Y Wyddfa (pronounced 'E Withva'),
+which is usually translated 'place of presence' or 'of recognition;' but
+the splendid suppleness of the Welsh language admits of rival
+renderings, such as 'place of shrubs or trees,' with which may be
+compared the name Gwyddallt--i.e. 'woody cliff;' and even, as a
+non-climber once observed, on seeing a panting form appear at the top of
+a gully on Clogwyn Garnedd, 'place for a goose.'
+
+Leland speaks of 'the greate Withaw hille,' and says 'all Cregeryri is
+Forest,' and, in another place, 'horrible with the sight of bare stones
+as Cregeryri be.'
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Snowdon may be climbed from many points. The nearest inns are
+Penygwrhyd, Beddgelert, Snowdon Ranger, and Llanberis. The peculiarity
+of Snowdon consists in the huge cwms which radiate from its summit, and
+these will be found described in their order, following the course of
+the sun, and the climbs to be found in each will be indicated.
+
+Books on Snowdon are simply countless, and the same remark applies to
+the pictures which have been taken of it and the panoramas which have
+been drawn from it.
+
+Unfortunately a very large number of fatal accidents have taken place on
+this mountain, and an interesting but somewhat incomplete article on
+this subject will be found in _Chambers's Journal_ for May 1887. The Mr.
+Livesey there mentioned as having been killed by lightning seems to have
+been really named Livesley, and was of Ashton, in Mackerfield,
+Lancashire. This occurred on Sunday, September 21, 1884 (the _Times_,
+September 23).
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: CWM GLAS AND THE PARSON'S NOSE, FROM THE WEST]
+
+=Cwm Glas.=--As there are three or four tarns on Snowdon called Llyn
+Glas, so the name of Cwm Glas appears to have been confusingly popular.
+Cwm Glas proper lies immediately under Crib y Ddysgl, and Crib Goch on
+the north side; but, to say nothing of the next hollow to the west,
+which is called Cwm Glas Bach (i.e. little), a recess lying just north
+of both is called by the same name, and it would appear, from some of
+the early topographers, that they understood the term to comprehend the
+whole valley which forms the west approach to the Llanberis Pass. The
+proper cwm can only be reached from Llanberis or from Penygwrhyd. From
+the latter (the usual starting-point) the simplest, though not the
+shortest, way is to go over the pass and down to Pontygromlech, and
+there, instead of crossing by the bridge, bear away to the left, and up
+into the cwm. Experts can save something by striking off much earlier
+near the top of the pass. Those who come from Llanberis will leave the
+highroad at a point 3½ miles from the station and about half a mile
+short of the cromlech.
+
+Before the two pools come into sight several short but striking pieces
+of rock are met with, and, indeed, the rock scenery on all sides is
+extremely fine. Many people come here for that reason alone, and are
+content to see the rocks without climbing them. For them there is an
+easy way up to join the Llanberis path by way of the grassy slope west
+of the Parson's Nose, of which more anon. Between the two a second ridge
+is seen, smaller than the Nose, and roughly parallel to it, leading out
+on to Ddysgl, much further up. Not far from this Mr. F. R. Wilton died
+in 1874 (see _Crib y Ddysgl_) and Mr. Dismore was killed in 1882.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Parson's Nose.=--The best known climb in Cwm Glas is on the rock called
+Clogwyn y Person (i.e. 'Parson's Cliff'), alias the =Parson's Nose=. It
+is a spur of Crib y Ddysgl, and is easily identified by its projecting
+in a northerly direction between the two little pools in Cwm Glas. No
+one seems to know the origin of the name; possibly it may have been
+scaled by the famous climbing cleric who haunted Snowdonia half a
+century ago. The most striking feature of this fine arête is the
+wonderful excellence of the hold. Faces crossed by precarious-looking
+ledges are found on a closer inspection to have behind those ledges
+deep, narrow, vertical rifts, affording the perfection of hand-hold,
+while the rock surface itself is so prickly and tenacious that
+boot-nails grip splendidly, and the only difficulty for the fingers is
+that some of them are apt to get left behind on the rocks. It may be
+climbed direct up the face, either from the very foot or from a point
+more to the right and some 30 ft. higher up. The height of the initial
+climb is something like 100 ft. Again, there is a gully on each side of
+the actual Nose, and it is usually climbed by one or other of these. The
+western gully is blocked above by an overhanging rock, over or under
+which it is necessary to climb or crawl. The gully on the opposite or
+east side is longer, and generally much wetter, and is on that account
+considered more difficult either to go up or to come down. The three
+ascents unite close to the cairn. Above the cairn the ridge continues,
+broken by only two respectable pitches, and leads on to the great tower
+on Crib y Ddysgl, some 1,200 ft. above the beginning of the climb. It is
+not, however, necessary, in order to get up out of Cwm Glas on to the
+main ridge, to climb the Nose at all; by proceeding west and over some
+white quartz slabs, close under the ridge, and then turning left, one
+can get out easily a few feet from the top of the Nose, or nearly the
+same point may be reached from the east side, only it will be after a
+less interesting and generally somewhat wetter ascent. If a climb is
+desired when the gullies are in a dangerous condition, there is a place
+further to the right than the right-hand or west gully where a very
+steep but safe scramble among big blocks leads up on to the bridge of
+the Nose.
+
+The following ascents are noted in the book at Penygwrhyd, that by T. W.
+and R. W. being probably the first:--
+
+_1887, September 18._--W. E. C. and A. E.
+
+_1890, June 21._--W. P. and G. B. B. tried the Parson's Nose, and,
+climbing the cleft from the south side, crawled between the rocks which
+block its upper part, then up the crags to the right for a short
+distance.
+
+_1892, April 2._--A party which had ascended the north gully of Tryfaen
+the day before ascended the Parson's Nose up the ridge, starting from
+the cleft. About 50 ft. above it a wall of rock is met which must be
+climbed either round a corner on the right hand or up a steep chimney on
+the left. The latter route was chosen, but a large stone (the middle one
+of three on the left side of the chimney) slipped, and remained in a
+dangerous position.
+
+_1892, August._--W. H. P. and G. B. B. climbed the 'wall of rock'
+straight up, which they thought easier than the chimney to the left or
+the green gully to the right.
+
+_September 23._--Mrs. H., Miss B., and a large party of gentlemen
+climbed the Parson's Nose by the gully on the Llanberis side and the
+jammed stone.
+
+Bingley visited this cwm at the close of last century, and gives a good
+description of it. He was much impressed by Caddy of Cwm Glas, the
+strong woman. Her real name, by the way, was Catherine Thomas.
+
+Cwm Glas Bach also has some fine rocks, and from the head of it up to
+Cyrn Las a good climb may be had.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Crib Goch= ('The Red Ridge') stretches down westward from Crib y Ddysgl
+to about opposite the summit of the Pass of Llanberis. The name is
+sometimes used for the whole length of both cribs. This is admitted on
+all hands to be inaccurate, if convenient, but there is some difference
+of opinion as to where the line of demarcation should be drawn. Some say
+at Bwlch Goch (2,816 ft.), while others put it a quarter of a mile or
+more further west. About 500 yards east of the Bwlch, at almost the
+highest point (3,023 ft.) of the ridge, a side-ridge strikes away to the
+north, while the main line continues eastward. The well-known pinnacles
+(including the 'Crazy' one) are close to Bwlch Goch, and on the north
+side of the ridge overlooking Cwm Glas. The southern side, sloping into
+Cwm Dyli, though very steep, is much less precipitous and rocky than the
+other.
+
+[Illustration: CRIB GOCH
+
+(Snowdon beyond)]
+
+_Starting Points._--Penygwrhyd and Gorphwysfa have almost a monopoly of
+Crib Goch, because for all other places--such as Llanberis, Beddgelert,
+Capel Curig, or Bettws y Coed--the distance from Gorphwysfa has simply
+to be added as so many extra miles along a highroad. In the case of
+Capel Curig this makes very little difference, seeing that Penygwrhyd
+lies on the direct route for any ascent of Snowdon, and to the latter
+there is no nobler approach than that along this ridge. Some have
+thought it sensational, and many have described its terrors in very
+sensational language; in fact, it takes the place which among the
+English lakes is filled by the far less striking Striding Edge on
+Helvellyn; but in truth, though it is the sort of place where ice, mist,
+and high wind may encroach to some extent on the margin of safety, to a
+steady head and foot there is no danger whatever. As for the hands, they
+are hardly required at all, though for those who like it plenty of real
+climbing can be had on the way.
+
+[Illustration: PINNACLES OF CRIB GOCH]
+
+Any mountaineer worthy of the name will admit that the ridge walk up
+Snowdon by Lliwedd and down by Crib Goch is for its length one of the
+finest in Europe. The mere gymnast also finds here plenty of enjoyment
+and almost infinite variety. He may mount by the east ridge or by the
+north ridge, or in the corner between the two. Again, the north ridge
+may be reached by either of two gullies in its eastern flank. Of these
+two gullies the more southerly is the steepest and longest, and may be
+recognised at some distance by a peculiar split or gap, while the other
+and more northerly, formed in rock of most cutting quality, offers a
+convenient passage to the foot of the steep part of the north ridge,
+from which point there is, if required, an easy descent into Cwm Glas.
+
+The north ridge gives a short, pleasant scramble, and is somewhat
+sheltered from southerly winds, which are sometimes an annoyance on the
+east ridge.
+
+Further west there are several good gullies on the Cwm Glas side,
+especially round about the pinnacles. The Crazy Pinnacle may be ascended
+either on the north-east or on the south-west side. The former is now
+more favoured since the fall of a certain large stone on the latter,
+which gave a useful hold in former days. Thirty years ago this ridge was
+almost unknown. A writer of 1833 seems to imply that it had been
+ascended by saying that 'the passage of it is hazardous, from the
+shortness and slippery quality of the grass at those seasons of the year
+when the mountain may be approached;' but this is evidently a mere
+misapplication of what others had said about Clawdd Goch (Bwlch y Maen),
+on the other side of the mountain, and we do not hear of anyone climbing
+here before C. A. O. B. (1847) and F. H. B. a few years later. Between
+1865 and 1875 it became better known, and in the books at Penygwrhyd we
+find it recorded that in April 1884 H. and C. S. climbed from Cwm Dyli,
+thence along the ridge by Crib y Ddysgl to the summit of Y Wyddfa.
+
+In 1887, on June 30, E. K. climbed Crib Goch from Cwm Glas by the gully
+to the left of the outstanding or Crazy Pinnacle. Near the top two big
+stones are jammed in, and this compelled him to leave the gully; but on
+June 29, 1890, G. S. S. found these stones climbable by the aid of a
+crack in the rocks on the left hand. From this point the ridge can be
+reached by taking to the rocks on the right. They are sound, which is
+more than can be said for those on the left of the gully a little
+farther down.
+
+[Illustration: PART OF CRIB GOCH]
+
+On July 31 and August 2 E. K. scrambled up the other gullies nearer
+Bwlch Goch, and found them easier than the first, which is the main one
+seen from Cwm Glas. He pronounced these climbs well worth trying, but
+not fit for beginners.
+
+On June 17, 1890, W. P. and G. B. B. ascended to Bwlch Goch, and bearing
+round the foot of the first pinnacle, climbed the gully between the
+first and the second. They found the holding good, but the rocks by
+which the gully is blocked somewhat difficult to pass.
+
+In 1894, on September 14, W. E. C., S., and B. climbed Crib Goch to the
+central cairn from Cwm Glas.
+
+On December 9, 1894, J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E. climbed the face from
+Cwm Glas beside an insignificant watercourse, reaching the ridge at the
+ruined cairn, then, passing along to the Crazy Pinnacle, scrambled down
+the gully on the Llanberis Pass side of it. The latter climb they
+describe as short but excellent, and the former as also good. No more
+climbs here are described in the _Book of Penygwrhyd_, but many others
+have been made. The truth is that for the last quarter of a century
+hardly a climber has visited Wales without making Crib Goch a primary
+object, and consequently there is not a climb on it whereof men say
+'See, this is new.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Crib y Ddysgl.=--The name is pronounced practically 'Cribbythiskle,'
+and sometimes written 'Distyl,' a spelling probably due to a desire to
+support the common derivation of the name from 'destillare' i.e.
+'dripping ridge.' The climate of Wales, however, is not such as to make
+any ridge remarkable merely because it drips, and moreover the
+derivation will not account for the other instances of the word. For
+instance, two or three miles west of the Pitt's Head we have Trum y
+Ddysgyl, and the proximity to it of Cwmtrwsgyl suggests that some
+distinction is expressed by the penultimate syllables. Attempts to
+derive the name from 'disgl' (= 'dish') seem equally futile. Possibly
+the explanation may be found in the word 'dysgwyl' ('watch,' 'expect')
+(compare Disgwylfa, in Cardiganshire), which would make it parallel to
+names like Lookingstead, &c.
+
+The highest point of Crib y Ddysgl is called Carnedd Ugain, and is a
+worthy rival of Y Wyddfa itself, being, according to the Ordnance
+surveyors, only 69 ft. lower--viz. 3,491 ft.--and from some points of
+view a really beautiful peak.
+
+From the highest point a narrow crest runs due east, reaching in about a
+quarter of a mile the huge buttress called Clogwyn y Person, which comes
+up out of Cwm Glas and has been described with it. This part is
+sometimes spoken of as the Gribin, a name which the large Ordnance map
+does not give, and I know of no other authority for it, though it is
+quite a likely place to bear the name. The main ridge continues east
+until it joins Crib Goch. The ridge, though sharp, is not a likely place
+for an accident to a climber, and, indeed, no accident seems to have
+occurred actually on the ridge, but more than one death has taken place
+close by. On August 10, 1874, a young man of great promise, Mr.
+Frederick Roberts Wilton, son of Mr. Robert Wilton, of Doncaster,[12]
+and a master in the City of London School, ascended Snowdon from
+Llanberis, and seems to have asked his way to Capel Curig, and to have
+been informed (not quite accurately) that he must turn to the right
+'near the spring,' which is a good bit beyond the proper point of
+divergence from the Llanberis path. His body was ultimately found a
+fortnight later 'in the slippery course of a small mountain stream which
+descends sharply from the most southerly branch of the miners' path
+immediately below Crib y Ddysgl into the basin known as Cwm Glas.
+Evidently he had gone down a steep shingly slope with a wall of rock on
+his right hand over the entrance of a rocky watercourse.' These details
+are taken from a letter of his colleague, Mr. W. G. Rushbrooke. As the
+body was found in a posture of repose, and there was no sign of any
+injury sufficient to cause death, there is some reason to fear that this
+unfortunate gentleman died of exposure. For further details see the
+_Times_ for August 22, 24, 26, and 28, 1874.
+
+  [12] See the _Doncaster Chronicle_.
+
+Another death from exposure took place here in the following
+year--namely, that of Mr. Edward Grindley Kendall, of Crosby, near
+Leicester, of whom something will be said under the head of _Cwm Dyli_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cwm Dyli= (pronounced 'Dully') is the great eastern recess of Snowdon,
+and universally admitted to be the finest thing of the kind in Wales.
+The long sharp ridge of Crib Goch and Crib y Ddysgl bounds it on the
+north, while the almost equally fine, though less regular, ridge and
+majestic crags of Lliwedd shut it in on the south. It contains Llyn
+Llydaw (Hluddow), the largest lake, and Glaslyn, the finest tarn on the
+whole mountain, and is one reason why the ascent of Snowdon from Capel
+Curig is the finest of all.
+
+The stream forms some fine cascades (800 ft. above sea level) in its
+descent to the Vale of Gwynant. Half a mile above these cascades Clogwyn
+Aderyn, on the north bank of the stream, and Clogwyn Penllechen, between
+it and Llyn Teyrn (1,238 ft.), have a climb or two on them. At this llyn
+the path from Gorphwysfa comes in, and along it the great majority of
+people enter the cwm. The next landmark as we ascend is Llyn Llydaw
+(1,416 ft.), nearly a mile long, the elevation of which so close an
+observer as Cliffe over-estimated by more than 1,000 ft. Climbers bound
+for Lliwedd leave the lake entirely on the right, and find a foot-bridge
+close to the exit of the stream from it. The path to Snowdon crosses the
+lake by a stone causeway, which is rarely submerged by floods. From the
+head of Llyn Llydaw there is a steep rise--555 ft. in a quarter of a
+mile--to the tarn called Glaslyn (1,971 ft.) Between this and the sky
+line at the head of the cwm, 1,290 ft. higher, only one more hollow
+remains, called Pantylluchfa, and here the crags of Clogwyn y Garnedd
+show up magnificently. It may be mentioned that many people get
+hopelessly confused in reading or giving descriptions of Snowdon,
+because they fail to distinguish Glaslyn, here, from Llyn Glas, half a
+mile to the north of it, in Cwm Glas, and another Llyn Glas less than a
+mile due west in Cwm Clogwyn. If they know Glaslyn they naturally assume
+that it must be in Cwm Glas, and if they know Cwm Glas they place
+Glaslyn in it. Some of the confusion would be avoided if the latter
+were called by what would seem to be its older and true
+name--Llynffynnonglas.
+
+[Illustration: SNOWDON FROM GLASLYN
+
+  _a_, Bwlch y Snethan.
+  _b_, Summit, with Clogwyn y Garnedd below.
+  _c_, Junction of paths from Penygwrhyd and Llanberis.]
+
+Cwm Dyli was the scene in 1875 of one of the strangest of all the
+disasters which have happened on the mountain. The victim was Mr. Edward
+Grindley Kendal, of Crosby, near Leicester, who on June 11 left Gwynant
+Valley in order to ascend Snowdon. Nothing more was heard of him or his
+till the end of that month, when a Mr. and Mrs. David Moseley,
+descending with a guide, found on the edge of Llyn Llydaw a wet and
+mouldy pair of boots, each containing a stocking marked 'Kendal' and a
+garter. It was at once surmised that the missing man had been wading and
+become engulfed in quicksands, which were stated to be numerous. His
+friends went so far as to employ a professional diver to explore the
+bottom of the lake, though it would seem that if the body was in the
+water simpler means would have answered the purpose, and if it was below
+the water the diver could neither find it nor follow it. At any rate he
+did not find it, because it was not there. It was found about ten days
+later on Crib y Ddysgl uninjured--it was identified by Mr. Ison,
+brother-in-law of the deceased and the jury at Llanberis found a verdict
+of 'death from exposure.' It was not precisely stated on what part of
+Crib y Ddysgl the body was found, and nothing transpired as to the
+condition of the feet; but it is simply amazing to anyone familiar with
+the character of the ground that a bare-footed man should ever have got
+so far. Why he did it and how he did it will always remain among the
+mysteries of Snowdon.[13] Other deaths have taken place in this cwm,
+for which see under _Lliwedd_ and _Clogwyn y Garnedd_.
+
+  [13] The _Times_, July 2, 6, 8, and 15, 1875.
+
+It is curious that two of the lakes in this valley are among those
+mentioned 200 years ago by the learned Edward Lhwyd as 'distinguished by
+names scarce intelligible to the best Criticks in the British.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Clogwyn y Garnedd y Wyddfa=--i.e. 'the Precipice under the Cairn of
+Snowdon'--has been commonly known by the first three words only for at
+least 200 years. It is one of the grandest cliffs on Snowdon, and gives
+very fine climbing.
+
+For more than two centuries this precipice has been famous as a refuge
+for rare ferns and plants. The guide William Williams, well known as a
+botanist, lost his life here while in search of the Woodsia; so at least
+says Mr. T. G. Bonney, though he is far from accurate in the date of the
+accident, which, writing in 1874, he describes as having taken place
+'some twenty years ago.' The actual date was June 19, 1861.[14] The old
+guide had taken up a lady and gentleman from Llanberis, and went from
+the top alone to gather ferns. The fall was 'down a declivity of three
+hundred yards.' The body was found at the foot of the precipice, after
+'scouts' had been sent out. He had fallen from the point where the slope
+suddenly changes from about 45° to, perhaps, 75° or 80°. The spot where
+he slipped was for many years, and perhaps still is, marked by a white
+stone.
+
+  [14] See the _Times_, June 25, 1861.
+
+On the shore of Glaslyn, at the south-west corner, there is a small
+cross of wood marking the spot where the body of Mr. Maxwell Haseler was
+found. He was making for Snowdon by the Lliwedd ridge, and fell from a
+short distance above Bwlch y Saethau. The party seem to have been well
+equipped, and contained members of experience, who were not without
+ropes and axes. They started on January 26, 1879, for Snowdon by
+Lliwedd, and, after lunching about 1 P.M. on Bwlch y Saethau, proceeded
+in the direction of Snowdon. Mr. Haseler took a separate course, more to
+the right hand, and almost immediately seems to have slipped and fallen.
+His body was found next morning by the shore of Glaslyn, and it was
+reckoned that he had fallen some 600 or 700 ft. The inquest was held at
+Penygwrhyd. The victim of this accident was only twenty-three years
+old.[15]
+
+  [15] The _Times_, January 29 and February 7, 1879; _Chambers's
+  Journal_, May 7, 1887.
+
+The following notes are among the records of Penygwrhyd:--
+
+On September 23, 1887, W. E. C. and A. E. ascended Snowdon from Glaslyn
+by the first gully on Clogwyn y Garnedd.
+
+In 1890, on June 20, W. P. and G. B. B. descended from Snowdon to
+Haseler's Cross by the gully immediately above it in Clogwyn y Garnedd.
+
+In 1890, on September 27, F. W. J. found an excellent gully climb,
+possibly that referred to in the note of September 23, 1887. He started
+from Glaslyn, keeping to the right edge of the lake, and, facing towards
+Bwlch y Saethau, saw a gully choked by jammed stones (five in number),
+beginning almost from the foot. It has often been climbed. The most
+interesting and difficult piece is where a large stone roofs a cavern
+some 15 ft. high. In it there is a kind of skylight, through which the
+climber must go by an indescribable twist of the body. From the bottom
+of the gully to the huts where the climb ends is 900 ft., all except a
+portion of the upper end being narrow gully, and the rest a scramble
+over rocks.
+
+On December 13, 1891, Mrs. H. ascended the big Clogwyn y Garnedd gully
+direct to the summit of Snowdon.
+
+On September 24, 1892, Miss B. and a large party of gentlemen climbed
+(second lady's ascent) the Clogwyn y Garnedd gully through the cavern.
+
+In May 1893 a party climbed up by this and down by the next gully, on
+the north, which has its head just below the huts.
+
+In September 1893 the two Misses T. descended the great gully in 1 hour
+25 minutes.
+
+In 1894, on September 14, Messrs. W. E. C., S., and B. descended the
+face of Clogwyn y Garnedd to the left of the big gully.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: SNOWDON FROM THE NORTH, WITH LLIWEDD ON THE LEFT]
+
+=Lliwedd= (2,947 ft.) stretches away eastward from the summit of
+Snowdon, dividing Cwm Dyli on the north from Cwm y Llan on the south.
+Strictly speaking, perhaps the name only applies to the central portion,
+where its magnificent northern crags overlook the head of Llyn Llydaw,
+but, as in the case of Crib Goch, the significance of the name has
+been enlarged, and it is frequently used to denote the whole length of
+the ridge.
+
+At the Nant Gwynant end a transverse ridge, called Gallt y Wenallt,
+bears near its base some remarkably fine rocks, on which there is very
+good climbing. West of the Gallt a side valley, called Cwm Merch, runs
+nearly due south, and beyond this Cwm Lliwedd proper begins. The
+southern slope of it is steep, but that to the north is imposingly
+precipitous. It is, in fact, unsurpassed in Wales. Advancing in the
+direction of Snowdon, the cliffs become less sheer and the crest less
+broken, and as soon as the highest point of Crib Goch is 'on with' the
+head of Llydaw Bwlch Ciliau offers a rough descent into Cwm Dyli. Next
+on the west comes the Criman, corresponding geographically to Clogwyn y
+Person on Ddysgl, but more broken; beyond them Bwlch y Saethau (i.e.
+_Arrows Gap_), leading down to the head of Glaslyn. The last quarter of
+a mile up to the top of Snowdon is very steep, rising nearly 1,000 ft.
+in that distance. It was here that Mr. Maxwell Haseler, in 1879, lost
+his life by keeping too much to the right.
+
+[Illustration: LLIWEDD FROM THE NORTH-WEST.]
+
+In August 1872 Mr. T. H. Murray Browne and Mr. W. R. Browne, the
+discoverers of the Scafell Pinnacle, saw the merits of this climb, and
+attacked it without success. Public attention was first drawn to Lliwedd
+as a climbing-ground by the ascent made in 1883 by Messrs. T. W. Wall
+and A. H. Stocker, and thus described by the former in the _Alpine
+Journal_:[16]--
+
+  [16] Vol. xi. p. 239.
+
+'This northern face consists of four buttresses, with three fairly
+well-defined couloirs between them. The summit ridge has two peaks, of
+which the western, nearer Snowdon, is the higher by a few feet. In
+January 1882 from the summit of Crib Goch Mr. A. H. Stocker and myself
+were struck by the grand appearance of the Lliwedd cliffs, and hearing
+from Owen, the landlord of the Penygwrhyd Hotel, that the northern face
+had never been climbed, the desire to make the first ascent naturally
+came upon us. On the 10th we made our first attempt by the central
+couloir, which leads up to the depression between the two summits. As it
+was raining the whole day the rocks were in an abominable state, and it
+was with the greatest difficulty that we managed to get up about 150
+ft.' On January 3, 1883, they tried again. 'On January 4, after
+carefully observing the rocks of the buttress to the west of the central
+couloir, we came to the conclusion that it might be possible to cross
+the face in an upward direction from east to west, and then strike
+straight up. At 11.15 A.M. we got on the rocks, beginning from the lower
+of two dark green patches seen from below. From this a ledge runs up to
+the right, and if it had only been continuous Lliwedd would present no
+very great difficulties. Unfortunately this was not the case; there were
+most formidable-looking gaps in it, and the ledges above and below were
+tacked on to it by smooth and almost perpendicular gullies. Three bits
+in particular may be mentioned as far the hardest, although they are
+more or less typical of these crags, which nowhere offer 20 consecutive
+yards of easy rock-work. The first difficulty which presented itself was
+where the ledge was broken by a bold face of rock. One of us was pushed
+to the top of the smooth part, and finding that he could not descend to
+the ledge on the other side, he ascended a little higher, anchored
+himself firmly to the rocks, assisted his companion up, and let him down
+to the required ledge; then, throwing the rope over a pinnacle, he gave
+both ends to his companion to hold tight, and slid down the 40 ft. of
+rope to join him. After a few yards of easier work we came to a ledge
+about 6 inches wide and 4 yards long; the rock above was nearly
+perpendicular, with no hand-hold, and there was nothing below. It was
+the only way; we could not turn it, and somehow we got over, but neither
+of us wishes to be there again. From that ever-to-be-remembered ledge
+the climbing was grand work up to the point where we had to turn from a
+westerly direction to go straight up the face. Here there was one nasty
+corner. A narrow ledge about 2 inches wide had below it a sloping face
+of rock with three minute cracks in it. One of us had crossed this in
+safety, and so assumed a position in which the rope would have been of
+very little use. He was then opposed by a steep bit, topped by 4 ft. of
+perpendicular rock, with a very steep slope of heather above. At the
+moment that his last foot left the highest peg of rock his other knee
+slipped, and the heather, grass, and earth began to give way in his left
+hand. It was an awkward moment, for the other man was not well situated
+for supporting a jerk at the end of 30 ft. of rope, which would mean a
+fall of about 50 ft. Happily the other knee got on the heather and the
+axe held firm in the earth. Our difficulties were then over. The rocks
+grew less and less difficult as we ascended, and after 4½ hours of
+incessant work up 850 ft. of rocks we found ourselves on the summit
+ridge, exactly 13 yards from the cairn.
+
+[Illustration: LLIWEDD FROM LLYN LLYDAW
+
+  _a_, East buttress.
+  _b_, Central gully.
+  _c_, West buttress.
+  _d_, Slanting gully.]
+
+'It may be mentioned that the only real difficulties lie in the first
+200 ft.; above that point the mountain presents rock-work of a very high
+order, but nothing stupendously difficult, the rock being very firm.
+
+'Future climbers will probably find that of the three couloirs the
+western is comparatively easy; the central may perhaps be ascended by
+climbing the lower rocks on the right, and the eastern by a long détour
+to the left. The buttress to the left of the central couloir looks as
+difficult as rocks possibly can look. But there is a chance that a
+careful search among the rocks to the left of the central couloir might
+reward a rock-climber with an exciting and successful scramble. In any
+case the whole northern face is distinctly difficult.'
+
+Under the date of April 12, 1884, we find recorded by H. S. and C. S. an
+ascent of Lliwedd by the ridge from Llyn Llydaw, which is apparently
+nothing more than the ordinary walk, but in 1887, early in April, is an
+important note in the hand of Mr. Stocker.
+
+'_Hints for the Ascent of Lliwedd by the North Face._
+
+  (N.B. Lliwedd consists of two peaks--the eastern and western
+  buttress--with a well-defined gully running up between them.)
+
+'1. _Ascent of Western Buttress to the Right of Central Gully._--Make
+for the lower of two green patches easily seen from below just to the
+right of the foot of the central gully. From it work upwards to the
+right to the second green patch; then again upwards, still to the right,
+to a very small, steep green slope. From this the climb is almost
+straight up, inclining a little to the left at first. This will land the
+climber a few yards to the west of the cairn.
+
+'2. _Ascent by Central Gully and Western Buttress._--Go up the gully
+till the foot of the steep bit is reached; then climb out of the gully
+by ledges on the right on to the western buttress. As soon as possible
+make straight up the face, keeping the gully a little to the left. This
+will land the climber at the cairn.
+
+'No. 2 is an easier climb than No. 1. All through the hand and foot
+hold is very good. The chief difficulties lie in the first 200 ft. after
+leaving the gully. The upper part is fairly easy. The whole climb is
+about 850 ft.'
+
+In 1887, April 11, O. E. and T. V. S. ascended Lliwedd by the central
+gully at first and afterwards in a line rather left of the summit. Time,
+under 3½ hours.
+
+In September 1887 W. E. C. and A. E. climbed Lliwedd by Mr. Stocker's
+second route in 1 hour 23 minutes from base to cairn, and subjoined a
+list of previous ascents, viz.--
+
+  First attempt. T. H. M. B. and W. R. B., August 1872 (Vis. Bk.)
+  January 7, 1883, Messrs. Stocker and Wall, by route 1.
+  April 24, 1884, Messrs. A. H. S. and P., by route 2.
+  April 11, 1887, Messrs. O. E. and T. V. S., by route 2.
+  September 10, 1887, Mr. R. W., by route 1.
+  September 20, 1887, Messrs. W. E. C. and A. E., by route 2.
+
+On May 20, 1888, Mr. Alfred Evans and two friends, W. E. C. and -- K.,
+left Penygwrhyd at 10 A.M., crossed the northern arête of Crib Goch and
+Cwm Glas, and climbed Clogwyn Person and by Crib y Ddysgl to the top of
+Snowdon. Evans and K. then descended by the second or third gully from
+Bwlch Glas on Clogwyn y Garnedd to the head of Llyn Llydaw. C., E., and
+K. started up the central gully of Lliwedd at 5.5 P.M. At the bottom,
+and for some distance up, the rocks are water-worn and but little broken
+up, and the water flowing down rendered this part difficult. At the
+moment when C. was about 300 ft. above the scree Evans was about 80 ft.
+below him, and could not advance. C., therefore, went down 3 or 4 ft.
+and rested. Evans then tried to get out of the gully by the ledge
+mentioned in Mr. Stocker's account. This ledge is divided in two parts
+by a huge outstanding buttress with very scanty footing. Both men passed
+this; then Evans lowered himself by K.'s ankle on to a rocky foothold
+and tried to work to the right, but after doing 5 or 6 ft.--half the
+requisite distance--his feet slipped, his arms were unable to support
+him, and he fell on his feet about 5 yards on to the edge of a steeply
+sloping grass ledge running up to this part of the cliff. From this
+point in four or five terrible leaps he fell over and over, a total
+distance of 200 ft., to the screes below. The accident happened at 6.55
+P.M., and K. is stated to have descended to the body, a distance of 200
+ft. of the most awkward climbing in the whole gully, in the space of 5
+minutes. This is hardly credible, but under such circumstances people do
+not judge time accurately.
+
+This accident need never have happened. If ever a party courted disaster
+it was done on this occasion.
+
+A cross was erected by friends of Mr. Evans on the spot where his body
+was found, but being much damaged by stones it had to be removed in 1892
+to a rocky knoll not far off, where its position is more secure. It
+records the age of Mr. Evans as 24.
+
+On June 10, 1889, M., A. L. M., and B. climbed the north face of Lliwedd
+by the rocks of the western buttress, keeping close to the central gully
+almost the whole of the way.
+
+On January 1, 1893, F. P., F. W. O., and H. J. R. ascended the north
+face of Lliwedd by the western buttress, starting just to the right of
+the central gully, and coming up at the cairn. Time, 3 hours.
+
+At Easter 1893 H. G. G. and -- W. climbed by the central gully and the
+western buttress, coming out at the cairn, in 3 hours 5 minutes, all the
+rocks being dry.
+
+On April 7, 1893, T. H. M. climbed the north-west face alone in 2½
+hours: he found two difficult spots near where Messrs. G. and W.
+scratched their initials on the rocks. Everything was dry.
+
+On September 14, 1894, W. E. C. and M. K. S. ascended the central gully
+for about 200 ft., then went up the western buttress, and crossed the
+gully again to the eastern buttress, about 300 ft. below the top,
+reaching the summit in 2 hours and 20 minutes.
+
+On October 14, 1894, J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E. ascended the central
+gully to a point apparently beyond that where others have broken out
+upon the face, and continued up a steep stretch of rock by taking a
+narrow gutter between the centre and right wall, the upper part being
+found difficult. A broad ledge brought them to a similar reach, where
+the outward slope of the holds became more and more pronounced. Finding
+the rocks above quite impassable, the party descended by means of an
+iron claw, which had to be left, and then by a ledge in the right wall
+and an awkward corner got out on the face of the west buttress. Here
+they found the ledges narrow and the crags extremely steep, but working
+upwards and tending to the right they crossed an incipient gully by an
+awkward stride, and thereafter met with only ordinary difficulties, but
+on passing a cleft which opens into the gully enjoyed a magnificent view
+of the latter, and struck the summit at the cairn. They pronounced the
+climb to be quite impossible for one man.
+
+_The Slanting Gully._--This gully, on the west side of the western
+buttress, is easily identified, being the next one to the west of the
+great central gully and a striking feature of the north face of Lliwedd.
+It is clearly marked all the way up, and is most readily approached by
+crossing diagonally up the screes below the great gully and then
+skirting the base of the rocks of the western buttress. This gully was
+attacked on January 9, 1894, by Messrs. F. O. W., C. W. N., E. H. K.,
+and H. K. It was then frozen up and covered with snow to a depth varying
+from a few inches to 3 ft. In 4 hours an estimated height of 350 or 400
+ft. above the starting-point was attained, the whole of this distance,
+with the exception of a few steps in deep snow, having to be climbed.
+The party kept in the gully the whole way, usually close against the
+rocks on the western side. Progress was finally arrested at a point
+where the gully becomes, for some distance, a mere crack, formed by the
+western rocks overhanging an almost smooth slab, where hold for hand or
+foot seems almost entirely wanting. With longer time at disposal it
+seemed possible that this difficulty might have been surmounted by
+wriggling up inside the crack, or by a dangerous scramble on the face of
+the slab. Two members of the party were provided with crampons, and
+derived great steadiness and safety from their use. The uniformly steep
+angle at which this gully lies may be gathered from the fact that a
+rücksack dropped from the highest point was picked up at the
+starting-point on the return. It was the opinion of most of the party
+that the condition of the snow and rocks was, on the whole, favourable
+for climbing, as the ice and snow gave some assistance in places which
+without them might have been still more difficult.
+
+The next attempt is valuable, as notes were taken on the heights of some
+of the obstacles.
+
+On March 26, 1894, the gully was attacked by J. C. M., O. M., and W. P.
+from the screes (2,300 ft.) at 1.55 P.M. They arrived in the cave (2,690
+ft.) at 5 P.M. They considered the conditions favourable, except that
+the snow was melting, but found the climbing difficult all the way. At
+about 2,500 ft. a chimney 70 ft. high had to be squirmed up. They were
+of opinion that the gully could not be climbed direct, and all their
+efforts to break out on either side were frustrated. The climbing does
+not, as in the central gully, become more easy as progress is made; on
+the contrary, the difficulties increase. The party carried two ropes,
+one of 50 ft. and one of 80 ft., and at one place had to use the full
+length of both together. The descent took 2 hours.
+
+On Thursday, August 30, 1894, this gully cost a valuable life. Mr. J.
+Mitchell, of Oxford, an assistant editor of the _New Historical English
+Dictionary_, started from the foot at about 2 P.M. The first pitch was
+quickly ascended, and he then proceeded, apparently without difficulty,
+to the foot of the long chimney, which he passed by means of the face.
+On reaching the top he waved his handkerchief, and, being asked what it
+was like, replied that it was very stiff. Not long after he was seen in
+a cave, which the lookers-on (probably in error) identified with the
+highest point reached by previous climbers. From this he climbed with
+great difficulty to the top, as it appeared from below, of a long chasm,
+with his head just below an overhanging rock, upwards of 150 ft. above
+the cave, and after more than half an hour of fruitless endeavour to
+make further progress he fell at 4.30 P.M., and was killed on the spot.
+The body was found at the above-mentioned cave, and was brought down by
+four quarrymen at great personal risk. The lesson which should be drawn
+from this is, that if a man will insist on climbing alone he should not
+choose for his attack climbs which parties of greater skill and
+experience than his own have found to be beyond their powers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cwm y Llan.=--This large cwm stretches away from Snowdon top to the
+south-east between Yr Aran and Lliwedd. The scenery consists mainly of
+the South Snowdon Slate Works, which occupy the centre of the valley, at
+a height of about 1,100 ft., and of Sir Edward Watkin's road up Snowdon.
+
+There is very little climbing, though some parts of Geuallt and Aran are
+very steep. On the Lliwedd side there is a good rock (Craig Ddu), not
+far from the slate works, and others rather smaller near the exit of the
+valley, while at the head, near Bwlch y Maen, almost under Snowdon and
+near Bwlch y Saethau, some difficult passages occur.
+
+The slate quarry here must not be confused with 'Cwm y Llan slate
+quarry,' which is not in this valley at all, but on the western slope of
+Aran, about a third of a mile beyond Bwlch Cwm y Llan. This little pass
+(about 1,700 ft.) is very useful to anyone who, after a climb on
+Lliwedd, wishes to reach the nearest railway station, for Pont Rhyd-ddu
+is very much nearer than Llanberis and can be reached without climbing
+over Snowdon summit. From the top of Lliwedd the pass is in full view,
+and a stone wall is seen stretching half-way from it towards two little
+reservoirs which are some 600 yards higher up the valley than the slate
+works. It is a mile and a half from Lliwedd by way of these reservoirs
+to the top of the bwlch, which will hardly be reached within half an
+hour. From the bwlch a fair path on the right bank of the stream leads
+towards Llynygader, and soon crosses the path from Snowdon to
+Beddgelert. By keeping round the hill to the right the Carnarvon
+highroad (which is easily seen from above) is gradually neared. The
+distance from the bwlch direct to the station may be covered in
+three-quarters of an hour, making in all 1¼ hour from Lliwedd, as
+compared with at least 2½ hours which would be required to reach
+Llanberis from the same point.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cwm Creigiog= is a shallow and unimportant hollow on the south-west
+side of Snowdon, lying between Aran and the ordinary Beddgelert path to
+the summit. The cwm has no attractions for a climber, yet at least one
+life has been lost in it. This was in the winter of 1859, when a Mr. Cox
+is said to have ascended Snowdon from Llanberis, and to have become
+exhausted on the way down to Beddgelert, between Llechog and the farm
+called Fridduchaf. His foolish guide left him alone and went in search
+of food, with the result, which in such cases usually follows, of
+finding his unfortunate employer dead on his return. The spot is marked
+by a heap of stones. Mr. Baddeley says it 'marks the spot where a
+tourist lost his life from exhaustion in 1874'--perhaps a mistake
+arising out of a death of the same kind in that year on quite another
+part of the mountain.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Clogwyndur Arddu= ('Black Precipice') is the magnificent ridge which
+divides Cwm Clogwyn on the south from Cwm Brwynog on the north, being
+the western buttress of Y Wyddfa, or more strictly of Carnedd Ugain. The
+ascent from the Snowdon Ranger traverses nearly the whole length of the
+ridge, which broadens out at its western end into Moel y Cynghorion,
+beyond which again is the low pass of Bwlch Maes y Cwm (1,100 ft.),
+giving an easy passage from Llanberis to Snowdon Ranger and Beddgelert.
+The cliffs on the north side of the ridge are grand, and have been
+concerned in more than one fatal accident. In 1846 the Rev. Henry
+Wellington Starr, B.A., of Magdalen Hall, Oxford, eldest son of Mr.
+George Starr, of Hilperton, Wiltshire, and then a curate in Northampton,
+left Dolbadarn Inn on September 6 to ascend Snowdon. He failed to
+return, and on inquiry being made by his friends people came forward
+with evidence which seemed to show that he had reached the top of
+Snowdon, then descended to Gorphwysfa, crossed the head of Llanberis
+Pass, and ascended Glyder Fawr. At that point a guide professed to have
+met him, and brought him about half-way down, particularly noting that
+he wore a single glove, corresponding exactly to another which he had
+left with his luggage at the hotel. Search was made in every direction,
+but it was not till the beginning of June in the following year that any
+light was thrown on the mystery. On that day some of the clothes were
+found accidentally by William Hughes, a huntsman, who was exercising his
+dogs, apparently on Moel Cynghorion, and next day, on further search
+being made, the skeleton was discovered buried under gravel. His purse
+and chain were found, but his watch and ring were gone. It appears from
+the evidence of Griffith Ellis, of Llanberis, who found part of the
+remains, that the deceased had fallen over the cliff of Clogwyn Coch, on
+Moel Cynghorion, while ascending from Llyn Cwellyn--that is, by the
+'Snowdon Ranger' route.[17]
+
+  [17] The _Times_, 1846, October 14, October 24, October 30,
+  November 3, and 1847, June 5; the _Globe_, October 1846;
+  _Chambers's Journal_, May 1887.
+
+In 1859 a fatal accident took place near the eastern end of the ridge.
+The victim, George Henry Frodsham, a clerk in Liverpool, described as a
+young man of very fine physique, arrived at Llanberis on Saturday,
+August 13, accompanied by his cousin, F. A. Nicholson, and four friends,
+T. Clayhills, J. Snape, J. Goodiear, and A. Gardner. It was midnight,
+but they started off at once for Snowdon. They got as far as the
+'half-way house,' where the proper path turns left, and up towards Cyrn
+Las; they, however, took the right-hand fork, which leads to the old
+copper level above Llyn du'r Arddu. Struggling up the rocks from the
+mine, Frodsham, encumbered by an umbrella and a bag, and being,
+moreover, in the dark, slipped and fell, unknown to his friends, who
+returned to the proper path and gained the summit. His cousin is said to
+have searched for him continuously from 4 A.M. on Sunday to 9 P.M. on
+Monday. At 6 A.M. on Tuesday the body was found by W. Owen; the skull
+was fractured both at the top and at the back, and the bag and umbrella
+were found 200 yards higher up, indicating that distance as the extent
+of his fall. A sapient jury drew from this sad event the moral that a
+guide should be employed as a safeguard against sudden mists; but few
+men need fear mists less than those who choose to climb when it is pitch
+dark. It may be said that this party neglected no precaution which is
+likely to ensure a fatal accident--inexperience, fatigue, darkness,
+difficult rocks, the burden of bags and umbrellas.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Llechog= (i.e. 'Flat, Slabby Place').--There are two ridges of this
+name on Snowdon; one is traversed by the ordinary route from Beddgelert
+and that from Rhyd-ddu, and is precipitous on its curving north front;
+the other forms the western wall of Cwm Glas Bach, and is traversed for
+some distance by the pony path from Llanberis. Towards the Llanberis
+Pass road it presents a fine rocky ridge, very steep and lofty, on which
+good climbing may here and there be found.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Moel Eilio= (2,382 ft.), less than three miles south-west of Llanberis
+station, has a namesake on the west side of the river Conway, not far
+from Llanrwst. The name is sometimes spelt Aeliau. The view from the top
+is extremely fine; the ascent is easy, and, as there is a railway on
+each side of it, access to the foot of it is very simple. The rockiest
+side is towards the east. Early in the century a poor little fellow
+named Closs, while trying to follow his mother from Bettws Garmon to
+Llanberis, was lost on this mountain. The story is told by H. L. Jones
+(1829) in his finely illustrated book, and by Wright (1833) and Bennett
+(1838). The last-named gives his epitaph.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Garnedd Goch Range.=--=Garnedd Goch= (2,315 ft.) (i.e. 'The Red
+Cairns') is a very rugged and unfrequented range of hills lying to the
+west of Beddgelert. The huge Nantlle slate quarries on the north side of
+it have spoilt some very pretty scenery and some very pretty climbs.
+Beddgelert and Snowdon Ranger are good starting-points, and better still
+is Penygroes station, on the line from Portmadoc to Carnarvon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Moel Hebog= ('Hawk Hill,' 2,578 ft.) seems to have been ascended last
+century by Lord Lyttelton, by the Ordnance surveyors, and in August 1857
+by Mr. J. H. Cliffe, who in his book (published 1860) gives a clear
+description of his ascent. In his opinion one of the cairns on the
+summit was then 'very ancient.'
+
+It is essentially a Beddgelert mountain, but can be conveniently taken
+from many other places at the cost of more time, as, for instance, from
+Snowdon Ranger on the north, Tremadoc and Criccieth on the south, and
+Brynkir station on the west.
+
+A man in the pink of condition who knows the way well can get to the top
+from Beddgelert in about three-quarters of an hour, but most people take
+1½ or 2 hours. The horizontal distance is under 2 miles, nearly the
+same as that from Wastdale Head to Scafell Pike; but the vertical
+height is less by one-quarter.
+
+The proper route is very simple. A shoulder runs down north-west on to
+the Carnarvon road, and the ridge of it, after being reached by
+proceeding due west from Beddgelert, is followed straight to the top.
+This shoulder may, of course, be used by those who approach from the
+Snowdon Ranger, but for them a better plan is to take, about ¼ mile
+after passing the Pitt's Head, a road which continues on the right bank
+of the stream to Glan y Gors, a few yards beyond which a turning on the
+right leads across a side stream and past the farm of Hafod Ryffydd to
+the foot of Cwm Meillionen, and, by following either the cwm or the
+ridge on the left hand, the top of Moel Hebog is easily reached.
+
+The routes from Tremadoc, Criccieth, and Brynkir all take the dull side
+of the mountain; but this disadvantage is counterbalanced by the
+increased effect which this gives to the view of Snowdon on reaching the
+top, and to the peep down into the valley of Beddgelert, below. The most
+difficult way to hit off is that from Nantlle, but in point of rock
+scenery it is the finest of all, and was chosen by the Alpine Club for
+their excursion when they met here in 1883.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Mynydd Mawr= (i.e. 'Great Mountain') rises just opposite to and west of
+the Snowdon Ranger Inn.
+
+The noble crag Castell Cidwm (i.e. castle of the wolf or robber) runs
+steeply down to Llyn Cwellyn, and well deserves a visit. Borrow, on
+seeing it from the south, was reminded of Gibraltar. Craig y Bera also,
+which overhangs Drws y Coed, is part of this mountain, and has some very
+striking rock scenery.
+
+
+Denbigh.
+
+This county has little climbing. A few rocks near Bettws y Coed offer
+short climbs, which are more satisfactory than the limestone rocks of
+Orme's Head, near Llandudno, or of the Eglwyseg cliffs, near Llangollen;
+but we find in =Dinas Bran=, close by, an extremely steep,
+castle-crowned hill, and much favoured by picnickers. It seems, however,
+to have been the scene of some early climbing, made too, quite properly,
+with the rope.
+
+Leland says, 'Ther bredith in the Rok Side that the Castelle stondith on
+every yere an Egle. And the Egle doth sorely assaut hym that distroith
+the Nest goyng down in one Basket and having a nother over his Hedde to
+defend the sore Stripe of the Egle.'
+
+Under such circumstances a climber ought to find St. Paul a better
+patron saint than St. Martin.
+
+
+Montgomeryshire.
+
+=Berwyn Mountains.=--The name is said to signify 'White Tops'
+(Bera-gwen). The range runs parallel to the river Dee, forming its south
+bank for many miles. It is not lofty, Moel Sych (2,716 ft.) and Cader
+Fronwen (2,573 ft.) being the highest points. The individual hills are
+not of striking form, and are really little more than high heathery
+moors, on which large numbers of grouse breed, but there are many points
+on the south-east side where small but striking rocks are found,
+chiefly about the heads of cwms hollowed out of the 'Llandeilo' and
+'Bala' strata. These cwms are occasionally visited for the sake of the
+waterfalls, two or three of which are exceedingly fine.
+
+The rocks at Llangynog would be remarkably good if they had not fallen a
+prey to the spoilers in the form of quarrymen.
+
+
+Merionethshire.
+
+    Merioneth mountains and shire Cardigan
+    To travel over will tire horse and man,
+
+says Taylor, the Water Poet, and, indeed, as a climbing county it is
+only second to Carnarvon, and contains such fine mountains as Cader
+Idris, the Arans, and the Rhinogs. The climbing capital is Dolgelly,
+though the excellent service of the Cambrian Railway makes it easy to
+scale almost any mountain from almost any place in the county. The
+reason of this is that all the places of resort are near the coast, and
+the mountains are not far inland, so that the railway following the
+coast puts them all in communication with each other, and it is almost
+equally convenient to stay at Barmouth, Harlech, Towyn, Aberdovey, or
+Machynlleth. Indeed, this is almost the only county where railways are
+cheerfully accepted by the mountaineer as friends and not as enemies. He
+does not love them at Bettws y Coed, he loathes them at Llanberis, but
+here they are unobtrusive and at the same time supremely useful.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Aberglaslyn.=--Through this beautiful defile lies the only correct
+approach to Snowdon. It is a true mountain scene, somehow suggesting
+Scotland rather than Wales, and of such beauty that, according to the
+story, three Cambridge dons, who went round Wales criticising nature and
+deducting marks for every defect, unanimously awarded full marks to
+this. There is fairly good practice climbing on both sides of it, but
+not very steep, in spite of the fears of some of the early travellers,
+who (like Hutton in 1803) thought the sides would close before they got
+through, and reached Beddgelert with a sense of relief.
+
+It was one of the earliest scenes in Wales which the taste of last
+century admitted to be picturesque. Sandby's view was taken about 120
+years ago.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cnicht= or =Cynicht= (2,265 ft.), =Moel Wyn= (2,529 ft.)--Mr. J. H.
+Cliffe ascended the former on September 4, 1857, and declared that he
+could only hear of one man who had preceded him (the climbing
+clergyman).
+
+Under certain aspects and conditions it is one of the most striking
+mountains in Wales, owing to its sharp, conical form, but it bears very
+little really good rock.
+
+Beddgelert is the best place from which to ascend, and if the old and
+higher road to Maentwrog be taken to ¼ mile short of the tramway in
+Cwm Croesor, a ridge on the left hand can be followed right up to the
+peak without fear of mistake.
+
+If the ascent of Moel Wyn be included it adds less than an hour to the
+time taken by the last expedition. On the other hand, if Moel Wyn is
+ascended from Tanygrisiau, on the Ffestiniog line, it is equally easy to
+take in Cynicht.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Rhinog Fawr= (2,362 ft.--just north of Rhinog Fach) is one of the most
+striking of the rocky hills which rise behind Harlech. It is more
+visited than would otherwise be the case because the pretty lake of Cwm
+Bychan and the famous pass of Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, both places of
+considerable resort, lie at its feet, one on either side. It is one of
+the barest and most rocky mountains in all Wales, and yet it has hardly
+anywhere on it a crag of respectable height. Little nameless problems,
+however, abound, and men who are content to enjoy a day's promiscuous
+scrambling, without accomplishing any notorious climb about which they
+will afterwards be able to boast, may be recommended to ramble over
+Rhinog Fawr.
+
+_Easy Ascents._--Several stations on the Cambrian line are convenient
+for the start, especially Harlech and Llanbedr. Vehicles can be got in
+summer to take visitors to near Cwm Bychan (about 5 miles), from the
+east end of which to reach the top of the mountain requires a long hour,
+by way of the lakelet of Gloywlyn and up the western slope of the
+mountain. From Dolgelly the way is not so easy to find. Bwlch Drws
+Ardudwy, the pass between the two Rhinogs, is the first place to make
+for, and for this the best plan is to go by the Precipice Walk or by the
+Trawsfynydd highroad to the Camlan stream, which comes in on the left
+half a mile or more beyond Tynygroes Inn. A path follows the stream for
+nearly 3 miles to a slate quarry, which can also be reached rather more
+quickly by crossing the bridge at Penmaenpool, especially if the train
+be used as far as that station. Half a mile up the stream beyond the
+quarry the course leaves the brook and strikes away north-north-west
+round Rhinog Fach, rising as little as may be, so as to join the track
+up Bwlch Drws Ardudwy. From the head of the pass, rugged as it looks, a
+way may be picked northward to the east slope of the summit, but many
+people prefer to descend to the west a long way, so as to strike the
+easier south-western shoulder. A yet simpler route than the last, but,
+as involving 3 miles more of the hateful Trawsfynydd road, intolerable
+unless a carriage be taken, turns out of the route to the left half a
+mile beyond the ninth milestone, and makes for the north side of Rhinog
+Fawr. The path for nearly 3 miles is that which leads to Bwlch Drws
+Ardudwy, and is quitted just after passing through a wall. The stream on
+the right hand is now followed up to the pool at its head, until a turn
+to the left and south brings the pedestrian up on to the summit. This
+route may also be used from Trawsfynydd (where the Great Western have a
+station very useful for Ffestiniog on one side and Bala on the other),
+and there is no better place to start from if climbing is wanted, for of
+that there is plenty to be found in Craig Ddrwg, the ridge which
+stretches away to the north. In winter this range is very fine, but as
+stern and desolate as it is possible to imagine anything. The writer has
+reason to remember that here, in January 1895, he experienced the most
+intense cold that he has met with in Great Britain.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Arenig Fawr= (2,800 ft.) is called 'Rennig' by Daines Barrington, who,
+writing in 1771, adds that it 'is commonly considered as the fifth
+mountain of North Wales in point of height.'
+
+The ascent from Arenig station, on the Great Western Railway, between
+Bala and Ffestiniog, is very easy, as the rise is only 1,700 ft., and
+the distance about 1¾ mile. The usual and most expeditious way of making
+the ascent is by proceeding westward from the station for ¼ mile to the
+farm of Milltergerrig, but for scenery and for climbing an opposite
+direction should be taken for nearly a mile, till the stream is struck
+which issues from Llyn Arenig, really a very fine tarn and backed by
+most respectable cliffs. Further south than the tarn again good rocks
+will be found. The usual, and indeed the proper, way of dealing with
+this mountain is to traverse it from north to south, ending up at
+Llanuwchllyn station, on the Great Western line from Bala to Dolgelly.
+The eastward view is extremely fine, and superior by far to that from
+many of the highest points in Wales.
+
+This was one of our earliest mountain meteorological stations, as it was
+here that the Hon. Daines Barrington conducted his experiments on
+rainfall in 1771.[18]
+
+  [18] See the _Philosophical Transactions_, p. 294, of that year.
+
+Its height, too, was measured, as Pennant (1781) tells us, by Mr.
+Meredith Hughes, a surveyor of Bala.
+
+One of the ancient Welsh writers mentions this mountain in a most
+contemptuous manner. Borrow alludes to this, and remarks that upon him,
+on the contrary, none of all the hills which he saw in Wales made a
+greater impression.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=The Arans.=--This mountain is the highest in Merionethshire, and by
+many wrongly considered the second highest in Wales. It lies between the
+Berwyns and Cader Idris.
+
+Like the latter, it is of volcanic trap rock, heavily speckled in parts
+with quartz, and exposed on the east side, where it has been subjected
+to much weathering. There is a good deal of old _débris_ from the face,
+that is now grass-covered.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The road between the Aran and the outlying hills of the Berwyn is over
+1,900 ft. high; we have, however, to descend to 860 ft. in passing from
+the Aran to Cader Idris. The main ridge runs almost exactly north and
+south for 6 miles, its west side--a large tract of marshy
+moorland--sloping down gently to the vales of Dyfrdwy (= the goddess's
+water; sometimes called the Little Dee) and Wnion, and its east side,
+irregularly escarped, falling for the most part very rapidly for the
+first thousand feet. Its ridge culminates in two peaks 1½ mile apart,
+Aran Benllyn (2,902 ft.) and Aran Fawddwy (2,970 ft.) The word _Aran_
+means an 'alp,' or a 'high place;' _Mawdd_ is said to mean 'spreading,'
+and the terminations _ach_ or _wy_ mean 'water.'
+
+_Aran Benllyn_ was one of several of which the height was measured in
+Pennant's time by 'the ingenious Mr. Meredith Hughes, of Bala,' who made
+it out to be 30 yards less than Cader Idris.
+
+In April 1881 the Alpine Club had one of their informal meetings at
+Bala, and chose the east front of the Aran as their route from there to
+Dolgelly.
+
+The ordinary ascents of the Aran are effected from Llanuwchllyn in 2
+hours, from Drws y Nant in 1¼ hour, and from Dinas Mawddwy in about 3
+hours.
+
+_Rock Climbs._--These are never extensive, though there are many little
+pieces that require much ingenuity to surmount. Excepting for a few
+boulder climbs on the ridge itself the crag work is confined to the east
+face of the mountains, the side overlooking Lliwbran and Craiglyn Dyfi.
+Climbers are often asked, where can a man start practising rock work?
+The Arans are first-rate for this. Whatever the difficulty on the
+mountain a few minutes' traversing will generally take one out of it, if
+direct ascent or descent be considered undesirable. The mountain face is
+so broken up that we have no gullies or arêtes separated by impossible
+walls of rock from the easy parts of the mountain. In short, from the
+enthusiastic shin-scraper's point of view the architecture of the Aran
+face is defective.
+
+(_a_) _From Lliwbran._--The rocks rising from Lliwbran are columnar in
+structure, and by the time a generation of climbers have torn away the
+grass from the holds they will show up plenty of neat little problems
+from 50 to 100 ft. high.
+
+Looking up from the lake the crag, which is a high dependence of Aran
+Benllyn, shows on the right an almost unrelieved slabbiness at an easy
+angle, which gives good practice in small footholds. Up to the centre of
+the crag is a steep grass gully, in a line with a large boulder down
+near the lake, with an overhanging wall that blocks the direct ascent of
+the gully, and with a fine clean-cut buttress on the left. We may creep
+up the corner of the wall on the left, or circumvent it by traversing
+round to the right.
+
+The route to the ridge from the big boulder is easiest up an oblique
+gully just invisible from it. Between our crag and the summit of the
+Benllyn is an easy walk due east down to the green shoulder south of
+Lliwbran, that takes us quickly by Nant y Barcud and Cwm Croes to the
+Twrch valley and the main road. This descent to Llannwchllyn, though not
+direct, recommends itself in wet or misty weather, and is in any case
+worth taking as a variant. Aran Benllyn itself offers nothing on its
+broken escarpments; though the face shows up rather well in profile from
+a distance, the climber need scarcely use his hands in zigzagging up the
+face to the cairn. The view from the summit justifies our traversing the
+peak on the way to Aran Fawddwy. It includes the length of Bala lake and
+a goodly extent of Llyn Fyrnwy, and the outline of Aran Fawddwy shows up
+magnificently.
+
+Passing along the ridge to the south of Benllyn we keep up at a high
+level for the whole distance of 1½ mile to Aran Fawddwy, the greatest
+depression being less than 250 ft. below Benllyn. If we bear to the
+left, just dipping below the ridge, we pass along the foot of an
+overhanging mass of rock of considerable length that is undercut in a
+remarkable fashion. There are many places along it where one may shelter
+comfortably in bad weather. It is difficult to climb up the rock direct,
+but towards its south extremity we may work up into a small cave and
+climb out by the left on to the ridge again.
+
+Five minutes then bring us to a fine cairn that marks an easy descent to
+Craiglyn Dyfi, the source of the Dyfi river, with a good view of the
+best rocks on Aran Fawddwy. The final ascent of this peak begins after a
+few feet of descent to a wall that crosses the ridge at its lowest.
+
+(_b_) _On Craiglyn Dyfi._--A small terrace at about the level of the
+wall just referred to leads round the rocks to the left into a large
+scree gully, which offers good sport in snowy weather. Half-way along
+this terrace is a 'problem' of unusual severity--a narrow crack in an
+overhanging face, with very scanty hand-holds where the crack closes,
+some 20 ft. up the face. The pleasantest bit of scrambling is on to the
+summit of Aran Fawddwy from the lake, by the arête that is seen in
+outline from the large cairn on the ridge, from which point the two
+vertical portions of the arête are well marked. It can be reached easily
+from the lake, or we may descend from the cairn for some 600 ft., and
+then traverse across to the south till a small gully is passed that
+shows a cave pitch at its lower extremity. The rock arête forms the
+south side of this gully and runs up for 400 ft. It reminds us of the
+easy climb up Tryfaen from the Glyder side, though in one or two places
+we have difficulties here, whereas there are none on the Tryfaen
+scramble.
+
+It begins below the level of the cave, and after passing over rough
+rocks at an easy angle we come to a fine wall with a wide crack up it on
+the left. A huge splintered block is fixed in the lower part of the
+crack, and we may surmount the block and just squeeze in, passing out on
+to the roof. There are one or two variations possible here. In fact,
+instead of starting on the arête we might pass up the gully to the cave.
+It has mossy walls and a dripping interior. It is marked by a small pile
+of stones on the right and a well-bleached sheep's skeleton in the gully
+just above. The pitch may be taken on the left by steep wet grass, which
+is unpleasant, or we can attack it direct. We go well inside, and with
+back to the right we find good holds on the left, thus working up until
+the roof itself offers hold for both hands. From here it is best to pass
+on to the arête a few feet below the crack above described.
+
+The way is then easy, but interesting, and leads to a straight-up crack
+in a wall in front of us that has to be negotiated. It looks severe, but
+the surface of the rock is so rough that no real trouble is experienced
+with it. The crack is much more formidable to descend. Shortly after
+this we find ourselves out on the open face again, the gully on the left
+having disappeared, and only a few crags above us marking the summit of
+the mountain. Striking directly upwards we reach the top in a quarter of
+an hour, the last 25 ft. being, if we choose, by way of a chimney, that
+begins with some difficulty and lands us just to the left of the large
+cairn that marks the highest point.
+
+(_c_) _By Llaithnant._--Passing due south of the Aran Fawddwy cairn,
+along the route to Dinas, we see a fine rock in front between us and the
+near end of the Dyrysgol ridge, forming the head of Llaithnant. It is
+marked by an overhanging rock half-way down the left-hand ridge. A steep
+and wet scree gully leads down to the valley, and we may go part of the
+way down until we are about 100 ft. below the overhanging block.
+
+Here we can strike across to the arête, and keeping close to the gully
+on our right have 250 ft. of fairly good scrambling. We skirt close
+under the big boulder, and passing to the right of it (a traverse can
+also be managed on the left, lower down) clamber over rather loose rock
+to the grass terrace above the pitch. Then good rock follows, and
+bearing towards the right we come in sight of a square-walled chimney
+overlooking the main gully, marked by small cairns at top and bottom.
+Its holds are all on the left, so we back up on the right and find
+ourselves close to the main ridge again. Another chimney still further
+to the right might be taken, but it is always very wet; the two pitches
+in it are both very small, and it is only interesting when ice is about.
+
+A grass gully separates our arête from a few rocks nearer Dyrysgol,
+which are of basaltic character and rather interesting to descend.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cader Idris.=--The name ('Chair of Idris') includes the whole mountain
+range, some 7 miles long, that separates the Mawddach from the Dysynni.
+It is a continuation of the outcrop of volcanic trap rock that stretches
+from the Arans down to Cardigan Bay, and, as usual with such mountains,
+its volcanic origin has had much to do with its grand scenery.
+
+The range runs in an E.N.E. direction from the sea south of Barmouth,
+and reaches its greatest elevation at Pen y Gader (2,929 ft.) It forms
+two other noteworthy peaks on the chain, Tyrran Mawr (2,600 ft.), 2
+miles to the south-west, and Mynydd Moel (2,800 ft.), 1½ mile to the
+north-east.
+
+The north side presents a fairly even front of precipitous rock for 3½
+miles. Near the highest point, however, a huge amphitheatre of rock, a
+thousand feet in height, suggesting a volcanic crater half fallen away,
+breaks the continuity of the ridge, and contributes the finest bit of
+mountain scenery that this side of Cader can offer. Probably this hollow
+suggested first the name of 'Cader,' though there is a recess on the
+summit ridge that is usually taken to be the seat in question.
+
+But the mountain can show something even better on the south side. Its
+high dependency Mynydd Pencoed joins the main ridge almost at the summit
+of Pen y Gader, and its extremity Craig y Cae forms with Cader itself
+another crater-like hollow, which, with Llyn y Cae lying at the foot of
+the crags, is even wilder and more magnificent than the one on the north
+side. Excepting the crags in this cwm the south side of Cader consists
+of steep grass slopes, and the general aspect of the mountain is
+uninteresting.
+
+An account is published in the _Gentleman's Magazine_ (vol. xxxviii. p.
+147) of an ascent of the mountain in 1767 by L. N.
+
+Cader Idris was also climbed in 1863 by Prince Arthur.
+
+Several members of the Alpine Club worked their way up the direct route
+from Llyn y Gader in 1881, and there is some mention in the _Alpine
+Journal_ (vol. xii.) of a few ascents by Mr. H. Willink.
+
+The gullies along the north face of the mountain were explored for many
+years by F. H. B.
+
+The wandering Borrow wordily describes a night adventure on Cader Idris.
+A pleasantly-written chapter on it may be found in Paterson's
+_Mountaineering Below the Snow Line_, and just recently an article has
+appeared on the same subject in the _Scottish Mountaineering Journal_.
+This latter article has a good general view of the whole length of the
+north face.
+
+On the north face, between Pen y Gader and Cyfrwy, a tailor named
+Smith, of Newport, met his death by a fall from the crags in 1864. His
+body was not found until the following spring.
+
+There is another Pen y Gader in South Wales, the highest point in the
+Black Forest of Carmarthen (2,630 ft.); also between Y Foel Fras and the
+Conway River a hill goes by the same name.
+
+The ordinary excursions up the mountain are made from Dolgelly, by the
+Foxes' Path, in 2¼ hours; by the Bridle Path, in 2¾ hours, or by Mynydd
+Moel in 3 hours; from Arthog, easily reached by train from Barmouth, in
+3 hours; from Tal y Llyn in 2 hours; and from Towyn in 4 hours.
+
+The walk up from Towyn is by the Dysynni valley and the _Bird Rock_.
+This has a very bold and steep front, broken up by narrow ledges. It can
+be ascended with different degrees of ease, and is worth climbing for
+the view. The rock is named from its usual frequenters, the kite, hawk,
+and cormorant showing up in large numbers on the face.
+
+_Rock Climbs._--(_a_) _On Mynydd Moel._--These are all fairly easy in
+dry weather, and are worth exploring on a slack day. Standing at the
+eastern corner of the little square Llyn Aran, we notice the highest
+point of Mynydd Moel to the west. A fine-looking arête leads up to it
+from the north, with a well-marked pinnacle apparently half-way up the
+climb. This we shall call the north ridge. A prominent pillar of unusual
+steepness is seen to our left, reaching to the height of the Ceu Graig
+ridge. Its eastern side is cut into by a narrow gully that seems from
+below to pass behind the pillar.
+
+To the right of the Ceu Graig pillar is seen another gully, looking
+steep but grassy; it is found to offer a pleasant route on to the ridge.
+Above the upper screes at the foot of the higher crags several ascents
+may be planned from below. The best is marked by two oblique chimneys
+that start upwards to the left. Between this and the north ridge a large
+scree gully leads up to the highest part of the mountain, and from it on
+the right several short scrambles on good slabby rocks are obtainable.
+
+[Illustration: CRAIG ADERYN (BIRD ROCK)]
+
+The first of the Ceu Graig gullies, counting from left to right, is to
+the left of the pillar, and takes three-quarters of an hour to ascend
+from the lake. It starts with a water slide that we take on the right,
+and we pass back into the gully immediately afterwards. Then the ascent
+of an easy chimney makes us a little wet if the weather has been rainy,
+and a pitch appears just above. This can be taken on the right or left.
+The right-hand route gives us wet rocks; the left leads up a side
+chimney, and back into the gully by an awkward grass traverse. After
+this the gully divides, and leads us to the neck that joins on to the
+pillar on our right.
+
+The steep outside face of the pillar can be ascended, but is rather
+dangerous. It is a sample of mantelpiece climbing, but the holds are
+mostly of grass and heather, and some of the steps are long.
+
+The next gully, a short distance to the right of the pillar, is more
+open than the first, and is less steep. Some water is generally coming
+down. The first obstacle is a wide cavern, that can be mounted
+immediately to the left or avoided by passing up the easy open chimney
+on that side of the gully. The second is a waterfall, and that also is
+by preference passed on the left; the difficulty finishes with a short
+corkscrew chimney. From this we emerge on to the open face of the
+mountain, and a few feet of good rock bring us to the main ridge. We are
+now at about the level of the upper limit of scree on the Mynydd Moel
+face, and a traverse can be effected round to the oblique chimney
+already referred to. In doing so we pass first a scree gully and then an
+inviting cleft up to the left, but this is found to lose its interest
+after the first 20 ft.
+
+The oblique chimneys can be recommended for beginners, as the climbing
+is only about 250 ft.; the rocks are very good, and the angle about 45°.
+Water comes down the gully, but does not offer any trouble, except,
+perhaps, at the first obstacle. If this is taken direct we climb up the
+right wall, which overhangs, and cling sufficiently close to permit the
+water to pass behind us. The second pitch is taken on the right, the
+rock being so much undercut that we can pass behind the water. After
+this a little more scrambling leads to a scree and an easy finish.
+
+[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF
+
+CADER IDRIS]
+
+The north ridge is somewhat disappointing. It works well up to the
+pinnacle, which may also be approached by a dilapidated chimney on the
+left. But just above this, where another ridge joins from the
+north-west, it becomes a mere walk along the edge of a cliff.
+
+Perhaps the neatest way of descending this cliff is by a very narrow
+vertical chimney, marked at top and bottom by small piles of stones, a
+little to the north of the big scree gully, and close to the highest
+point of Mynydd Moel.
+
+(_b_) _West of Mynydd Moel._--Here the north cliff is very much broken.
+There are innumerable scree gullies up the face, but the rock ridges in
+between them have no good features. There are one or two pinnacles just
+below the ridge, easy to reach from above, but difficult from below. One
+especially is worth a scramble, about 5 minutes' walk from Mynydd Moel;
+a thin and uncommonly difficult chimney leads up its outside face.
+
+(_c_) _On Pen y Gader._--The central gully up Pen y Gader is a prominent
+feature of this face of the mountain. It was climbed many years ago, but
+no definite account of its early history has been obtained. It is in
+three obvious portions, as indicated in the illustration, and is
+generally wet. The two shelves that divide the climb stretch obliquely
+upwards to the right across the whole face, and may be reached in a
+great variety of ways. Nevertheless the only good climbing is in the two
+lower portions of the main gully.
+
+The first piece takes us on to the shelf with about 70 ft. of climbing.
+The gully narrows considerably, and we are forced on to the right-hand
+side and up a steep and smooth slope of water-worn rock. Then we cross
+over the water to the left, and effect an easy exit on to the ledge. We
+next scramble over some irregular blocks and into a narrow recess at the
+foot of the second pitch. This is a narrow chimney, very pleasant in dry
+weather, landing us in 50 ft. on to the second ledge. From here the
+ground is more open, and the climbing is of a slight character to the
+summit, except in winter, when the whole gully is apt to be heavily
+glazed. Under such circumstances the lowest pitch is almost dangerous.
+
+The first pitch may be varied by striking up from the screes a few yards
+to the left of the main gully, by the cleft shown in the illustration.
+The second can be quitted altogether, and the columnar rocks to the west
+taken in a variety of ways; and all along the upper corridor will be
+found short pitches leading to the summit ridge.
+
+(_d_) _On Cyfrwy._--There are two well-defined arêtes leading up close
+to the summit of Cyfrwy. The first _a a_ is in an easterly direction,
+and may be seen in profile from the direction of Pen y Gader. This is
+easily recognisable by the curious truncated pinnacle or tower some way
+up. The second bears up from the north, and also shows a pinnacle, but
+of smaller dimensions. Beyond the two arêtes the climbing on Cyfrwy is
+inferior, but between them there are a few interesting routes up the
+crags.
+
+[Illustration: CADER IDRIS
+
+(seen across Llyn y Gader)]
+
+The terrace _e e_ is easily reached from the screes. From it there are
+two definite climbs, one _b b_ up a gully to the left, that leads out
+on to the east arête, the other _c c_ up a more open gully that passes
+to the summit ridge. It is possible that the notch between the great
+tower and the east arête can be reached from this side, but the upper
+part looks difficult.
+
+The east arête was climbed in about 1888 by the writer. The first
+recorded ascent was in January 1891 (H. K., W. E. S., and O. G. J.), and
+the first ascent by a lady in August 1891 (Miss L. G., K. W. D., and O.
+G. J.)
+
+[Illustration: THE CYFRWY CLIMBS, FROM THE NORTH.]
+
+It can be followed all the way up. The tower is best turned on the
+right, and the vertical wall of 40 ft. that immediately follows is
+climbed direct from the little gap, with just a slight divergence to the
+left. The only serious difficulty on the arête is a wall of rock 100 ft.
+higher up. It can be surmounted by a thin cleft, the jammed stones in
+which are unsafe; or by working up the face a little to the left. The
+situation is very exposed. This, and any other bad bits, can generally
+be avoided by climbing down to the scree gully on our left. Near the top
+of the arête we pass the exit of the chimney _b b_, which descends
+steeply to the right.
+
+[Illustration: CYFRWY ARÊTES
+
+(The northern is seen in profile, the eastern is much foreshortened)]
+
+The north arête has probably not been climbed, but the gullies on each
+side have been taken. They call for no special comment. The one to the
+right is worth ascending for the view of the fine rocks on this face. It
+is mostly scree with a small pitch near the top, and was once marked
+above by a little cairn. It is admirable when hard snow is about.
+
+The gully _c c_ to the left is very open and risky, consisting of a
+series of shelves formed by the falling away of the porphyritic pillars
+that characterise the face.
+
+The climb _b b_ is rather better. The scrambling from the terrace is
+easy but steep, until a large overhanging boulder entirely blocks the
+way. We then climb up the vertical wall on the left and traverse back to
+the gully. It finishes very abruptly on the narrow upper ridge of the
+east arête, and in a most unexpected way we find ourselves looking down
+to Llyn y Gader with the face of Pen y Gader directly opposite.
+
+There are a few short climbs on the face of Tyrrau Mawr, but nothing
+very definite can be picked out.
+
+(_e_) _On Craig y Cae._--The great gully of Mynydd Pencoed was climbed
+for the first time on May 18, 1895 (W. P. H. S., E. L. W. H. S., and O.
+G. J.) It is by far the finest climb in the Cader district; the work in
+it is as varied as in any of the more familiar gullies in the
+neighbourhood of Snowdon, and the rock scenery in its upper portion can
+scarcely be surpassed on British soil. The upper part of the gully
+attracted the attention of the writer in 1890, but it was not until
+April 1895 that he made any attempt to enter the gully at its lower
+extremity. Then he succeeded in forcing his way over the first pitch,
+but the great rush of water coming down the gully made the second pitch
+impossible, and the untimely fracture of an ice axe prompted a temporary
+withdrawal.
+
+On the day when the successful attempt was made the rocks were unusually
+dry. In wet weather the difficulties of the climb are likely to be very
+much increased, more especially in the narrower pitches, where the route
+chosen by the climber is identical in position with that chosen by the
+water, though opposite in direction so long as valour needs diluting
+down to discretion. It seems probable that grass traverses may be found
+to circumvent the lower pitches. The first and second, for example, may
+be avoided by traversing into the gully from the left, over the grassy
+buttress that supports the Pencoed Pillar. The third pitch may be passed
+immediately on the left, if one treats the loose soil with due
+consideration. The fourth and fifth seem from above to permit an
+alternative route up to the right, over steep grass and back to the
+gully by a treacherous-looking upward traverse to the left. From here
+the three remaining pitches directly up the gully offer the simplest
+solution to the rest of the problem; variations to the left and right
+have been freely suggested, but are still untested.
+
+[Illustration: LLYN Y CAE (OR CAU) AND CRAIG Y CAE (FROM CADER IDRIS)]
+
+The climbing starts within 200 ft. of the level of Llyn y Cae, with a
+short pitch some 12 ft. high, marked above by a cairn of stones. The
+second pitch begins almost immediately, and must be taken direct, the
+roof of the cave in its upper portion to be approached by a serpentine
+squirm of the body after the cave is entered, up the thin crack on the
+right. The third pitch is ferocious in aspect, but uncertain in action,
+on account of the poor quality of its material. It consists of a large
+cavern with a pendulous mass of brittle rock hanging down from the roof
+somewhat to the left. The cavern is penetrated as far as possible on
+this side, and then, with back to the hanging rock and feet on a hold
+invisible from below, a passage may be effected outwards to the firm
+hand-holds in the open. A jammed stone with débris attached, in the most
+handy situation at the corner of the exit, is best left alone.
+
+Soon after this we approach a long narrow chimney close to the left wall
+of the gully. It is about 35 ft. in length, and the upper part gives
+trouble. But a very fine foothold some 12 ft. up gives breathing space
+for the final portion. Then the interest ceases for a while, as we mount
+some 130 ft. of scree and smooth rocky slabs at an easy angle. This is
+an excellent arrangement, for the fifth pitch, that now comes on, is
+likely to demand all our powers of admiration for a while.
+
+It consists of a cavern divided by two steep buttresses into three
+parts, side by side, the middle one being most open to inspection but
+most difficult to approach directly. Immediately above the left-hand
+portion a vertical chimney rises some 40 ft., its lower end projecting
+well over the cave and manifesting no direct route of approach from
+below. To get to the foot of this chimney is the chief difficulty. The
+method adopted was rather intricate, and probably permitted much
+improvement. It has, however, the advantage that the leader need not
+climb straight away the full 80 or 90 ft. without a halt. He first
+penetrates as far as possible into the cave on the left, until the roof
+bars further progress. Then he traverses over a dangerously smooth and
+wet slab, with no perceptible foothold, to the middle portion of the
+cavern. From here he works upwards and outwards until with a long stride
+he steps out on to a little ledge on the right wall of the gully. Here a
+hole through a large block enables him to manipulate the rope with
+safety, and the second man can join him. The second may reach the
+terrace more directly, if the rope is available, by working directly up
+the middle of the gully till the level of the ledge is reached; but the
+climbing is very uncertain, on account of the treacherous footholds.
+From the ledge the leader passes back across the centre and over a
+notched curtain of rock into the upper chimney. Here there is no doubt
+as to the route; a resting-place is afforded for a moment by a little
+cave, through the roof of which only the thinnest can hope to wriggle.
+The edge of this roof is mounted on the right, and a few feet higher a
+jammed block that dominates the pitch is turned on the right, up some
+rather treacherous grass that needs very careful treatment. The writer
+would like to add a word of advice to this already lengthy description
+of the pitch. Don't attempt to qualify for the through route of the
+little cave by slipping downwards and jamming in the chimney.
+
+The three remaining pitches are short and near together, the last one
+finishing a few feet below the summit of the ridge, some 850 ft. above
+the lake.
+
+_East Gully._--The gully immediately to the east of the Pencoed Pillar
+was first climbed on May 19, 1895 (W. P. H. S., W. E. S., and O. G. J.)
+As seen from the opposite shores of the lake it presents a striking
+appearance, the middle part looking very difficult. It starts higher up
+the face than the western climb (about 440 ft. above the lake), and
+finishes on the ridge at a somewhat lower level than the top of the
+latter (870 ft. above lake). Thus the climbing is much reduced, and the
+whole ascent can be accomplished in an hour by a party of three. The
+scrambling in it is almost continuous, and towards the middle, where the
+rock walls close in the gully, the route is very steep, though none of
+the pitches are severe.
+
+We begin with oblique slabs of rock rather inclined to be wet. Then the
+direct route lies over a block of rock with uncertain holds, but a cleft
+to the left promises much better, and a traverse at the top leads back
+easily to the gully again. The scrambling is very pleasant where the
+right wall begins to overhang, and remains interesting till the gully
+divides. From here screes lead up each part to the crest of the ridge,
+but a small rock arête separating the two branches give us climbing all
+the way.
+
+Still more to the east is a shorter gully, composed for the most part of
+scree, that can be taken in 20 minutes. It has two pitches, the upper
+one requiring a rope. The first is taken up on either side, and is only
+about 12 ft. high. The second is a cave pitch with a very fine interior.
+The ascent is effected by backing up the rather loose walls of the cave,
+and then bearing out to the left and over the obstacle. From here to the
+summit is nothing but scree. The gully is afflicted with the near
+neighbourhood of badly weathered rocks, and shows signs of having been
+quite recently bombarded from the crags on the left.
+
+These three gullies on Mynydd Pencoed represent all the climbing that
+has as yet been attempted on the south side of Cader. It is much to be
+hoped that a few interesting routes will yet be found between the pillar
+and the small col that represents the lowest portion of Craig y Cau, and
+the account of what has been done may induce others to visit this
+unfrequented region. To the same end it might be advisable to throw out
+the remark that the Pencoed Pillar, some 700 ft. high, looks quite
+inaccessible from the grassy buttress at its foot.
+
+
+South Wales.
+
+It is scarcely worth while to enumerate the southern counties, as all
+alike are destitute of climbs, except upon the sea cliffs. Some of these
+are remarkably bold and picturesque, especially about Lydstep (Tenby)
+and St. David's Head; but they cannot compare in any way with those of
+Ireland, and least of all for climbing purposes, being mainly of
+limestone. Just north of Aberystwith are some highly curious rocks,
+giving a climb or two. Some twenty years ago a schoolboy was killed by
+falling from them.
+
+Of the inland rocks it will be sufficient to mention a few.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: CLIFFS NEAR LYDSTEP (TENBY)]
+
+=The Brecon Beacons= (2,910 ft.), in Brecknockshire (which name the
+travellers of old, with some justice, modified to 'Breakneckshire'), are
+sandstone peaks of very striking outline. Indeed, Mackintosh (who saw
+them from the east) says, 'I was more impressed than I have been with
+any mountain in Wales. Their outline excited a very unusual idea of
+sublimity.'
+
+Brecon is the best starting-point, and it is a good plan, though by no
+means necessary, to drive to the Storey Arms inn (1,400 ft.), eight
+miles towards Merthyr, or to go by train to Torpantau, and thus avoid
+walking over any part of the way twice.
+
+[Illustration: CLIFFS NORTH OF ABERYSTWITH]
+
+The way is easy, and easily found; but a wary eye should be kept upon
+the streams, which in this part of Wales are surprisingly rapid and
+copious.
+
+A curious notion once prevailed that nothing would fall from the top of
+this hill. Many years ago an unfortunate picnicker disproved this. See
+the _Times Index_, but the statement there made that he fell 12,000 ft.
+is somewhat startling.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=The Black Mountains=, a wide stretch of charming hill-walking, have
+little to attract the mere climber, nor will he find much on such hills
+as the bastion-like =Blorenge= (1,720 ft.), in spite of their possessing
+caps of 'mill-stone grit.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Plynlimon= (2,469 ft.) is seldom mentioned except with derision.
+
+_The Beauties of Wales_ (1818) does indeed speak of 'the towering summit
+which bears the name of Plinlimmon,' and quotes the equally appropriate
+description given by Philips--
+
+                  That cloud-piercing hill
+    Plinlimmon from afar the traveller kens,
+    Astonished how the goats their shrubby browse
+    Gnaw pendent.
+
+But, in truth, the great difficulty which travellers have, whether far
+or near, is to ken it at all; and many of them have vented their
+disappointment in words of bitter scorn.
+
+Pennant (1770) candidly admits that he never saw it, which is easily
+understood, for the mountain is neither easy to see nor worth looking at
+when seen. The ascent is a protracted bog-walk. It was made in 1767[19]
+by L. N., but Taylor, the Water Poet (1652), sensibly calls it
+
+                          Tall Plinillimon,
+    Which I no stomach had to tread upon.
+
+  [19] _Gentleman's Magazine_, 1768.
+
+An amusing notice used to be seen at Steddfa Gurig (then an inn), 2½
+miles south of the summit, and 13¼ miles by road from Llanidloes:
+'The notorious hill Plinlimon is on the premises.' This place, being
+1,358 ft. above the sea, is the best starting-point for the ascent of
+the mountain, and coaches run past it from Llanidloes.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Aberedw Rocks= are fairly typical of the kind of climbing which is to
+be found in South Wales. The rocks being quite close to the station of
+that name on the Cambrian Railway, are brought within easy reach of
+Rhayader and Builth Wells on the north and of Brecon on the south. Three
+or four rock terraces, 15 to 20 ft. high, break the slope of the hill
+beside the railway, and a sort of rocky cove penetrates it as well. Bits
+here and there are not unlike the 'chimneys' on Slieve League, but the
+material is more friable, resembling loose walls of very inferior slaty
+fragments. A few harder masses stand out picturesquely as small
+pinnacles, especially in the cove, near the head of which a lofty
+bulging piece of rock has a vertical rift in it, which for a few feet
+offers quite a difficult climb.
+
+The river =Edw= (close by) has extremely steep, cliff-like banks, and
+these are a common feature in other tributaries of the Wye. The
+=Bachwy=, for instance, has a gorge which, seen as the writer has seen
+it during a winter flood, is profoundly impressive. Malkin's description
+(1804) should not be missed. He found 'rudely-shaped eccentricities of
+nature, with all the mysterious gloom of vulgar and traditional
+ascription,' 'dwarfishly fructified rock,' 'features all of a revolting
+cast,' and 'a prospect rude and unchastised.'
+
+The =Irvon=, again, has sides so rocky as to be chosen by the falcon for
+nesting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cwm Elan=, 5 or 6 miles from Rhyader, is a very pretty spot, and the
+gorge of Cefn Coch is exceedingly striking. Mackintosh says that the
+height is not less than 800 ft., and the cliffs are in many parts mural
+and quite perpendicular. He declared that, while the cliffs on the
+left-hand side of the river are very fine, he had seen nothing to
+surpass those on the right. This from a hill traveller of his experience
+is remarkably high praise. The writer has only visited these rocks once,
+and has never attempted to climb there, nor, indeed, has he ever heard
+of anyone else doing so. The Birmingham reservoir is to submerge several
+miles of this cwm and the two houses in which Shelley stayed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Stanner Rocks= are quite near the station of the same name on the
+branch of the Great Western from Leominster to New Radnor, and on the
+north side of the railway. The material of which they are composed is
+superior for climbing purposes to the soft shaly stuff so common in
+South Wales, being the same eruptive trap rock which forms the hills of
+Hunter, Worsel, and Old Radnor, and has metamorphosed the surrounding
+limestone. These rocks narrowly miss being a good climb. The train from
+Leominster takes about 50 minutes.
+
+Near New Radnor is a precipice down which Cliffe (1854) mentions that a
+gentleman rode, and he also records that another climbed the fall called
+_Waterbreakitsneck_.
+
+
+
+
+IRELAND
+
+
+=Introduction.=--Climbing in Ireland, in the sense in which it is
+understood in Switzerland, is, of course, unknown, although during a
+winter of happily rare occurrence, such as that of 1894-5, abundant snow
+and ice-slope work is no doubt obtainable. It would be accompanied,
+however, by extreme cold and days of too short a duration for work.
+
+Nor can Ireland boast of such arenas for cliff-climbing as the Lake
+District, or the Cuchullins in Skye. There is no Pillar Rock, no Old Man
+of Dearg. But there are ample opportunities for acquiring the art of
+mountain craft, the instinct which enables the pedestrian to guide
+himself alone from crest to crest, from ridge to ridge, with the least
+labour. He will learn how to plan out his course from the base of cliff
+or gully, marking each foot and hand grip with calm attention; and,
+knowing when to cease to attempt impossibilities, he will learn to trust
+in himself and acquire that most necessary of all climbers' acquirements
+a philosophic, contemplative calm in the presence of danger or difficult
+dilemmas. If the beginner is desirous of rock practice, or the practised
+hand requires to test his condition, or improve his form, there is many
+a rocky coast where the muscles and nerves and stamina can be trained to
+perfection. Kerry and Donegal are competent to form a skilled
+mountaineer out of any capable aspirant. Ice and snow craft is an
+accomplishment which must of course be acquired elsewhere.
+
+Much of the best scenery in Ireland is available only to the
+mountaineer. Macgillicuddy's Reeks can hardly be appreciated in less
+than a week's exploration. Even after three weeks spent amongst them we
+have wished for more. Donegal alone requires lengthened attention, and
+there a much longer period will be profitably spent.
+
+The climbing described in the following pages was chiefly undertaken
+with the object, or excuse, of botanical discovery. All the mountain
+experiences, except where the contrary is stated, represent the
+personal--usually the solitary--experiences of the writer. Of roped
+climbing the author has had no experience outside the Alps. Being tied
+up in a package and lowered from a cliff to a bird's nest, though not
+climbing, is, no doubt, a feat requiring nerve and dexterity; but when
+the nest of the raven, peregrine, or chough is in view, and ropes and
+companions are 'out of all ho,' and it appears improbable such a chance
+will come again, the eager naturalist will indeed rejoice that his nerve
+and dexterity are not wholly dependent on the comfortable security of a
+friendly cable round his waist. To the botanist such accomplishments are
+even more essential. A knowledge of rocks--what to trust, what to
+mistrust, what to attack vertically (such as granite and quartzose
+usually), what to deal with by their ledges (such as limestone often and
+sandstone still oftener), what to avoid altogether (such as trap, chalk,
+and decomposing basalt), a knowledge of the elementary principles of
+guidance under varying conditions of weather--can be gleaned from the
+mountain and sea coast cliffs in Ireland, not, perhaps, to such an
+extent as to produce an expert, but quite enough to lay the requisite
+groundwork of one. Form and condition, nerve and activity, will develop
+in company, and with them the love for the art will grow, and nothing
+beyond a little local education will be wanting to enable him to follow
+upon their arduous undertakings real proficients in mountain craft. Any
+words that can induce the skilled mountaineers of England and Scotland
+to test the merits of an Irish welcome, of Irish scenery, and of the
+bracing combination of Atlantic and mountain air in the western counties
+will have been written to good purpose.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Antrim.=--The highest hills are Trostan (1,810 ft.) and Slieveanea
+(1,782 ft.) The formation is almost entirely trap or basalt, and there
+is no cliff-climbing, the rock being crumbly and unsafe. Around the
+coast there is a belt of cretaceous rocks, forming in some places, as at
+the Giant's Causeway (White Rocks) and at Fair Head, bold cliffs of
+chalk or rotten trap. On Fair Head, 640 ft. high, there is a magnificent
+view. Cyclopean columns of greenstone crown a talus always heavy on the
+Antrim cliffs, owing to their friable nature.
+
+There is a fissure known as the Grey Man's Path on the west side of this
+Head, in the face of the cliff, by which it is possible to descend and
+inspect the foot of the columnar prisms.
+
+[Illustration: THE TARTAR ROCK
+
+(on Fair Head)]
+
+The Antrim glens and the Antrim coast road are deservedly famous for
+their lovely scenery, and excellent accommodation is everywhere
+obtainable. Of the glens _Glenariff_ is, perhaps, the gem. It is hemmed
+in by cliffs 1,000 ft. high, with mural summits. Glenarm is equally
+beautiful, though in a more tranquil and gentle way. On the north and
+south sides of the Bay there are considerable precipices.
+
+From Fair Head the prospect is singularly fine. The Head is columnar
+basalt.
+
+Fair Head is approached from Ballycastle on the west. West of
+Ballycastle again, about the same distance, is the well-known rocky
+islet of Carrig-a-Rede, which is severed from the mainland by a chasm
+nearly a hundred feet deep, spanned by a very slight swinging or flying
+bridge, which in a storm is not inviting.
+
+On this basaltic islet an interesting climb round the cliffs may be had,
+and the rock is secure enough on the west and north sides.
+
+From Ballintoy, which is close to Carrig-a-Rede, it is a magnificent
+cliff walk to the Causeway; and from the Causeway to Portrush the rocky
+coast scenery is full of interest. Many places will invite a scramble.
+Below the road, which is adorned with an electric railway, numerous
+difficult places occur, and several little valleys permit a descent to
+the sea and a swim. A few miles west of the Causeway the coast becomes
+low to Portrush, the golfing centre, with its excellent hotel.
+
+At Portrush, or near it, at White Park Bay, the white cretaceous rocks
+are capped by frowning basalt, and the contrast of colours is most
+striking. It is not necessary to describe the well-known _Giant's
+Causeway_. _Pleaskin Head_ is the finest feature in its cliff scenery,
+but unfit for climbing, owing to the crumbling, weathering nature of its
+beds of lava and iron ore. More fine sea cliffs are found in the
+Gobbins, on Island Magee.
+
+Antrim, with all its lovely cliff and glen scenery, and all its good
+hotels, is not a mountaineer's county, like Kerry, Donegal, or Wicklow.
+It is more highly cultivated and more civilised than a climber with a
+proper sense of his calling could possibly approve of. It suggests
+driving, bicycling, picnics, good dinners, and evening dress more than
+knickers and hard work.
+
+We will turn our attention, therefore, to _the_ mountain county of
+Ireland.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Donegal= has some of the highest and finest mountains in Ireland, and
+the extent of mountainous country is larger than in any other part of
+Ireland. No maritime mountain and cliff combined can approach Slieve
+League, in Donegal, and if the coast cliffs of Mayo have a continuous
+grandeur that excels any similar stretch in Donegal, there are many
+higher and finer cliffs on the Donegal coast, in endless succession and
+variety from Inishowen Head, on Lough Swilly, to the south-west coast.
+
+The Donegal mountains form four groups--(1) _Inishowen Mountains_; (2)
+_Donegal Highlands_; (3) _South-West Donegal_; (4) _South Donegal_.
+
+_Inishowen Group._--_Slieve Snacht_, the highest point, has no
+interest, except its view, and the same remark applies to _Rachtin
+More_, the next highest. Both are composed of barren quartzite. _Bulbin_
+has a schistose escarpment looking north-west, of some 300 ft., reaching
+almost to the summit, and terminating in a short talus and a
+heather-clad slope. It is a very picturesque little mountain, and
+possesses some interesting plants.
+
+Inishowen is deficient in accommodation. North of Buncrana there are but
+one or two inns that will tempt a visitor to return. Accommodation can
+be obtained at Carndonagh and Culdaff, and at Malin Head there is a
+house that receives visitors by arrangement.
+
+Malin Head is the proper place from whence to explore the cliffs of
+Inishowen, and Glennagiveny, under Inishowen Head, to its north,
+contains lodging-houses also.
+
+The coast line of Inishowen is in many parts wild and magnificent.
+Inishowen Head affords excellent climbing. The cliffs are from 300 to
+400 ft. in height, and various traverses, ascents, and descents can be
+made between Stroove and Glennagiveny. The Head is in reach of Moville,
+where there is a good inn.
+
+Further to the north-west the cliffs increase in height. From Glengad
+Head, a little north-west of Culdaff, to Stookaruddan a series of
+precipitous headlands (500 to 800 ft.) faces the ocean, looking a little
+east of north. The walk along this coast from Culdaff to Malin Head,
+although laborious, on account of the steep-sided inlets, is well worth
+the trouble. The rugged boldness of Malin Head is most fascinating, and
+in a storm it is superbly grand. At this point the cliffs have fallen
+to a low elevation. The finest bit is at a place about half-way between
+Glengad and Stookaruddan.
+
+Having put up for the night at Malin Head, if possible, if not at Malin
+or Carndonagh (the latter for choice), Dunaff Head, guarding the eastern
+entrance to Lough Swilly, should be visited. Lough Swilly is the finest
+oceanic inlet round the whole coast of Ireland. The eastern cape, about
+700 ft. high, terminates in a range of bold precipices over 600 ft. high
+for some distance. It is a most enchanting bit of sea cliff. In variety
+of shape, sheerness of descent, and picturesque grouping and
+surroundings it is hard to match.
+
+The cliffs can be descended at the nose of Dunaff to an outer rocky
+continuation, provided there is no storm. In stormy weather this rock,
+of perhaps a hundred feet, is completely swept by surf. There is a steep
+gully in another place on the south side, which admits of a descent to
+the water's edge. For most of their length, however, these cliffs are
+quite impracticable. For some distance downwards all seems to go well,
+but the pelting of detritus from above and Atlantic surf from below
+render the lower parts as smooth as marble and straight as a wall into
+the water. Here and there the inner bluffs are more practicable, and
+from a boat, in very calm weather, a study of the cliffs would probably
+reveal more than the scrutiny from above, which is usually alone
+possible.
+
+South of Dunaff Head, up Lough Swilly, the precipitous coast of the
+Erris Mountains gives a most enjoyable stretch of rough work. It is
+often possible to descend to the sea, and having done so a difficult
+climb is often preferable to a tiresome ascent to the headland
+surmounting one of the numerous creeks.
+
+Across the Lough we find ourselves in the lovely peninsula of Fanet, the
+coast of which is admirably adapted for rock practice. The highest sea
+cliff is the Bin, a conspicuous headland 350 ft. high and very
+precipitous. It can, however, be scaled without much difficulty in one
+place, a few feet from the summit towards the south. Other parts of it
+appear practicable, and at low tide the base can be completely
+compassed--a wild bit of work if there is a sea on. There is an
+admirable hotel at Portsalon, with a famous golf links, about half-way
+between this cliff and Knockalla Mountains. The whole coast from
+Portsalon to the Bin is studded with cliffs, caves, and remarkably
+beautiful natural arches.
+
+The rock of Fanet is almost entirely quartzite, a metamorphosed
+sandstone, often pure and glittering quartz. It is firm and safe, but
+the absence of stratification renders it difficult to negotiate. This
+barren rock (it disintegrates to silex) is very common in Donegal, and
+is identical with that of the Twelve Benns, in Connemara.
+
+Before leaving Lough Swilly the remarkable view from Dunaff Head should
+be referred to. On a clear day the Paps of Jura, the Mull of Cantire,
+and even the Isles of Arran and Islay, can be seen in Scotland over the
+low Malin Head. Westwards, in a noble succession, lies the grand series
+of the outer Donegal capes. Fanet Head, Melmore Head, Breaghy Head, Horn
+Head, Tory Island, and the Bloody Foreland are all in view, and
+south-westwards the 'Donegal Highlands' look so imposing that an
+immediate expedition to them will probably be decided upon.
+
+Across the peninsula which lies between Mulroy Water and Lough Swilly
+there is a most comfortable inn at the Rosapenna Golf Links. It is an
+extremely pretty wooden structure, brought by the philanthropic Lord
+Leitrim, whose loss the district will never cease to deplore, from
+Norway, and the complete success of it makes one wonder that this sort
+of structure is not more often adopted. From Rosapenna expeditions can
+be made to cliffs and coast in all directions.
+
+_Horn Head_ is a grand range of sea cliffs, ten or twelve miles in
+extent, which are the largest breeding-place in Ireland for sea fowl.
+There are a few places where a descent is possible, and a careful
+exploration (with the proprietor's permission) will be certain to yield
+excellent climbing. The rock is as firm as iron in most places. Most of
+the climbing the writer has done on these cliffs has been from a boat
+upwards in search of sea fowls' eggs. One especially remembered one,
+after green cormorants' nests, at the entrance to that most noble cave
+the Gap of Doonmore, was of great difficulty. The absolutely reliable
+rock had very slight 1-1½-in. ledges, and the latter part of the climb was
+slightly overhanging. The nests were reached, however.
+
+All round this Head excellent rock-climbing, coupled with magnificent
+scenery, is available. At the base of the cliffs, not far from the
+proprietor's dwelling-place, there is a little bay with a cave above the
+reach of the tide. Here a man once saved his life by climbing. My
+friend, Mr. Charles Stewart, the proprietor of the Horn Head estates,
+writes:--
+
+'I think it was the year 1876 that my man John Stewart was over three
+weeks in the cave watching my salmon, without the boat being able to go
+to him. The cliffs above were 600 ft. high. He could easily climb up
+about 100 ft., most of it cliff-climbing with a little grass. After that
+there is a very difficult piece of cliff, almost perpendicular, of about
+40 ft. It is easy enough to get down to this point from the top. A man
+went down and lowered a rope to him, but he could not come up straight,
+as the cliff overhung too much. He tied the rope round him and climbed
+up in a zigzag way. He was half an hour climbing this short piece, and
+was very exhausted, with his hands badly cut and bleeding. He had with
+him his son, a boy of about twelve years old. He had rope about 10 ft.
+long from his waist to the boy, who slipped twice on the way up, each
+time very nearly taking his father with him. About five years afterwards
+the boy was looking for eggs in the cliffs, and fell about 500 ft. to a
+shingly beach, rolling the first part of the way down a steep grassy
+bank for about 100 ft., and then a sheer drop of 150 ft. to another
+grassy bank where a small holly bush grows. When picked up (of course
+quite dead) he had a holly branch in his hand.'
+
+There is a comfortable hotel at Dunfanaghy, immediately inland of Horn
+Head.
+
+From Dunfanaghy Tory Island can be visited in calm weather--an
+interesting boating trip. It is fifteen or twenty miles to the north of
+west, and Horn Head has to be passed on the way, giving an opportunity
+of surveying its cliffs. There is a cliff or buttress (called, I
+believe, Tormore) which the islanders point out, that is somewhat
+difficult to climb upon. Once on the summit the successful cragsman can
+have any wish he may pine for. The highest point of the island is under
+300 ft. The inhabitants disregard the payment of all rents, taxes, &c.
+
+The turreted and bold contour of Tory renders it a great embellishment
+to the north-west coast. It is visible from all elevations for a
+considerable distance. Seen in a sunset its richly reddish-coloured
+granites light up with a warm and lovely glow. It formerly possessed
+monastic or other religious institutions, and several ruins of small
+churches or oratories are still visible. It abounds with legends--a home
+of superstition and folk-lore.
+
+From the neighbourhood of Dunfanaghy the most attractive objects upon
+the horizon are the mountains of the Donegal Highlands, _Muckish_ and
+_Errigal_ being especially conspicuous.
+
+_Muckish_ ('Pig's Back,' 2,200 ft.) is about 7 miles from Dunfanaghy. It
+is flat-topped, with short rotten cliffs on the north and west sides.
+
+_Errigal_ (an oratory or small church) is more interesting. The summit
+is pointed, bifid, and hardly large enough for more than two persons. It
+is composed chiefly of disintegrating quartzite, flanked on the west by
+igneous rocks. Between Errigal and Muckish (about 6 miles) lie the
+pointed summits of _Aghla Beg_ (1,860 ft.) and _Aghla More_ (1,916 ft.)
+The largest of many lakes is Alton Lough, where the writer was once
+solemnly cautioned against swimming, on account of the 'Phouea,' which
+lived there and used to mingle with the cattle as a cow and lure one
+down into the depths. So would he do with mankind. Numerous swims in
+that lake have weakened this prognostication.
+
+Above Alton Lough, on its south-west side, are the cliffs of _Beaghy_
+(1,200 ft.), which afford a nice bit of climbing. All these hills can be
+gone over in a day, though some (especially Errigal) will ask a second
+visit. About 4 miles from the base of Errigal is the excellent fishing
+inn at Gweedore. From Dunfanaghy over the summit of Muckish, Aghla,
+Beaghy, and Errigal down to Gweedore is a bit of mountaineering which
+can be most thoroughly recommended. Gweedore should be made a
+head-quarters for a few days; and the comfort obtained at the close of
+the day will be well earned and appreciated.
+
+The Poisoned Glen, six miles from Gweedore, is a stern and barren scene
+of almost sheer, polished granite cliffs, nearly 1,000 feet above the
+base of the glen. The south-west corner of the glen is the most
+precipitous. Several deep, black, narrow gorges cut deeply into the
+granite. Some, particularly one at the corner of a commanding buttress
+on the south side, about half-way up the glen, are of considerable
+difficulty. Wedged boulders occur frequently. The worst bit is the final
+struggle to the crest of the ridge, which slopes south-westward to the
+summit of Slieve Snacht. It will be found necessary in one place to
+break out of this gully on to the face, and it should only be attempted
+in dry weather. A full day may be spent going up one gully and down
+another on the south-west side of the glen. Often the descent is far
+easier, a jump of 12 or 15 ft. down to the shingly soft bed of the
+gully clearing an obstacle difficult to breast upwards.
+
+The most glaciated spots in Donegal are this glen and _Slieve Snacht_, a
+rounded hump of granite.
+
+By proceeding to the head of the Poisoned Glen, past the Gweedore Lakes,
+and past the prettily wooded Dunlewy Lake which lies abreast of the
+Glen, up the winding stream in its base, and taking the ravine in its
+apex, we reach a pass known as Ballaghgeeha Gap ('Windy Pass'). From
+this point it is a short walk across a valley to a road, visible from
+the pass, which follows the Gweebarra valley south-west down to
+Doochary. Taking it in the opposite direction, it leads into Glenbeagh,
+a gorge about eight miles long, with a lake enclosed by steep cliffs on
+its west shore. On its right a beautifully wooded mountain slope
+contains the seat of the proprietor, Glenbeagh Castle. This valley is
+crossed at its mouth by the main road to Gweedore, some 10 miles away,
+and the circuit described is one of the most beautiful mountain walks
+imaginable. In order to vary this, and save the road work home, a
+scramble along the west shore of the lake may be effected to the granite
+cliffs opposite Glenbeagh Castle, known as Keamnacally. In several
+places an ascent can be effected of about 1,000 ft. The crest of the
+cliff leads up by a gradual slope to the summit of Dooish, 2,147 ft.
+This point is in a straight line for Gweedore from Glenbeagh, and if the
+mountaineer wants more work the summit of Errigal lies in the same
+bee-line.
+
+_Lough Salt_ (1,546 ft.), a conspicuous hill, was ascended and described
+by Otway about seventy years ago, in the language of that period
+(_Scenes and Sketches in Ireland_). He adds some quaint legends about
+two of the lakes. Into one of these St. Patrick banished the last Irish
+snake, a rebellious animal that gave him much anxiety.
+
+_Gweedore to Carrick._--The pedestrian had better omit the north coast,
+and proceed westwards round the coast to _Dungloe_.
+
+Aranmore Island, with its handsome red granites, shows some fine cliffs,
+especially those at its north-west end, between Torneady and the
+lighthouse. In the bay formed by these cliffs a grand tooth or monolith
+stands isolated and vertical, about 100 ft. in height. The cliffs are
+from 400 to nearly 600 ft., and some rise perpendicularly from the
+water.
+
+The best point to visit Aran from is Burton Port, about 3 miles off.
+Skilled boatmen are required, as the passage is winding, amongst islets,
+rocks, rapid tide currents, and shallows. Aranmore, like many other
+Atlantic islands, slopes inland or eastward, and faces the Atlantic with
+a wall of cliffs. The coast north of it is wild and beautiful, with
+interesting physical features. Across Umfin Island runs a gruesome
+cleft, through which a heavy sea tears its way in fury, meeting the sea
+from the other end in frantic commotion. Further east, on Horn Head, is
+the famous MacSwyne's Gun, for many years a signal to the whole county
+that a furious sea was raging at the Horn. It is a 'puffing hole' on a
+large scale, but the little rift, ever widening, has slowly silenced
+all, or nearly so. On this Head also is the famous _Marble Arch_, Tempul
+Breagha, jutting out into the sea.
+
+At Dungloe good quarters and excellent fishing, as usual, are
+obtainable.
+
+From Dungloe the road lies through Doochary, Glenties, and Ardara to
+Carrick. Each of these last villages has a good inn. The best plan is to
+break the journey at Ardara, and take the magnificent coast walk or
+climb into Carrick, a good day's work. As far as Maghera the way is
+plain along a low sandy coast. West of this lies Maum Glen, whose cliffs
+are precipitous enough, and if the glen be crossed a mile inland it is a
+steep descent and ascent, though devoid of difficulty. Following the
+coast, there is a track near the water's margin for some distance. Soon
+the precipices forming the north face of Slieve-a-Tooey are reached. If
+the tide is low the base can be followed a long way with one or two ugly
+corners. The cliffs are up to 1,000 ft. (Slieve-a-Tooey 1,692), but can
+be ascended in various places, and the land lowers again at Port. All
+along the scenery is of the most impressive character. Outside Port lies
+Tormore Island, one of a group of boulders, a rock which, though hardly
+half a mile round its base, is a tremendous sea fowl breeding-place,
+second only to Horn Head. At low water Tormore can be reached from the
+shore, and it is scaled in many places by lads in search of eggs. One
+native was on the Great Tor when a storm arose, and cut him off from the
+shore and from all help. After a week he died of starvation and
+exposure. It is, perhaps, about 500 to 600 ft. high. Pursuing our way
+along the ever-varying cliffs, most interesting in a storm, the curious
+promontory called Sturrell is reached in about 4 miles. The knife-edged
+saddle is very rotten, but leads to a firm block of rock nearly 1,000
+ft. above the sea. So defiant is the challenge of this rock that no
+cragsman can pass it by. The passage is not pleasant, yet even on a
+second visit the writer was powerless to resist temptation. The
+tottering wall of rotten rock gives the impression that the whole
+connection may slither down. Considering what desperate Atlantic storms
+this crumbling cliff withstands annually, such fears must be
+exaggerated. Nevertheless it would be improper to recommend this climb.
+It is dangerous as well as difficult, very exciting, and exceedingly
+delightful--after it is over.
+
+The rock along this northern side of the mountainous promontory of
+Banagh is chiefly quartzite, but in some places, as Sturrell, a rotten
+schist.
+
+About a mile south of Sturrell another and a grander headland is
+reached, that of Glen Head. It is 600 ft. of cliff, and deservedly
+famous. It is easily visited from Carrick Hotel, about 7 miles off. On
+much of the southern side a descent is practicable.
+
+From Glen Head to the road to Carrick is a short walk. At this hotel we
+are at the inland base of a renowned sea precipice.
+
+_Slieve League_ (1,972 ft.), whose southern face descends from the
+summit almost precipitously to the Atlantic, is perhaps the finest ocean
+cliff in Europe. The ascent from the hotel, almost at sea level, is
+easy. It is best to drive down to Teelin Bay, and strike up the mountain
+westwards along the coast. Carrigan Head is soon reached, and from a
+point north of it, on the south side of Bunglass, the finest view of
+Slieve League is obtained. This gradual ascent to about 1,000 ft. is a
+glorious experience.
+
+[Illustration: GLEN HEAD]
+
+From the southern Bunglass cliffs the view of the richly-coloured
+precipices opposite is superb. This colouring is a remarkable feature.
+The cliff is well-nigh sheer for 1,000 ft., descending straight from a
+heathery brink. With the exception of the wonderful cliff seen in
+Yellowstone Park from 'Inspiration Point,' the writer could name no
+rock-face with such an assemblage of hues. Dolerites, diorites,
+quartzites, schists, and conglomerates all help to form this remarkable
+mountain. Below the Atlantic lights up and enhances the whole scene.
+Though usually breaking into heavy surge it is sometimes as smooth as
+glass, and then the visitor should secure a boat at Teelin (or Towney
+Bay), and row beneath, viewing the caves. One of these, with a small
+entrance and a vast interior, gives forth appalling reverberating echoes
+to a horn or a gun.
+
+At Bunglass there is a track leading down to the sea, and a swim rewards
+the descent. Crossing the heavy-shingled foreshore to the base of the
+opposite cliffs, there is a gully which appears practicable from below,
+and leads to the very crest of the cliffs. The violence of storms and
+the pitiless pelting of surf below and dislodged fragments from above
+have cemented the steep floor of this slit into an uncompromising
+hardness. The writer tried it, passed one or two bad places, and was
+rejoiced beyond measure to reach the bottom with unbroken bones.
+
+From the summit of Bunglass cliffs, at a point a little north of the
+Eagle's Nest, at an altitude of 1,000 ft., it is practicable to traverse
+the whole face of Slieve, at about the middle height, 700 to 1,000 ft.
+above sea level, from end to end, to the bluffs of Leahan. In two or
+three places the ocean edge can be reached, besides the point already
+mentioned. In search of botanical specimens we have climbed them in all
+directions. There is a track (of a sort) to the sea at one place between
+the Eagle's Nest and the One Man's Pass. While scrambling along the sea
+face this track was discovered amongst steep heather, bracken, and
+bear-berry, and a footprint showed it to be a human resort. Finally an
+old man and a little boy emerged from the ocean brink, loaded with
+samphire, both inside and outside, and eating it as they rested on their
+climb. Vastly surprised at the appearance of the only stranger they had
+ever seen there, they eagerly besought him to remove his boots--a
+suggestion declined with thanks. Samphire boiled with milk is a cure for
+a cough, but it was a novelty to see it eaten raw. This track is called
+Thone-na-culliagh ('Back of the Grouse').
+
+It took the writer three summer days to complete this traverse from end
+to end of the median height of Slieve League. Several nasty ravines,
+iron-floored and steep-edged, had to be crossed. At the close of each
+day an ascent had to be discovered--an anxious undertaking, as the
+return invariably seemed too dreadful to contemplate. The point
+relinquished at the close of each day was religiously repaired to on the
+following.
+
+Excessively steep slopes of cemented gravel, grass, or crumbling rock,
+half held together by heather, are the usual difficulties. But in four
+or five places odd right-angled walls of horizontal, loosely-balanced
+blocks of slaty schist jut out right across the face of the cliff, the
+legs of the angle being sheer to the sea and horizontal above. The
+blocks lie loose upon each other, and are not always large enough to
+give one a sense of anything except the rickets. Usually it was possible
+to climb beside these buttresses, and, balancing by them, get over in
+gingerly fashion. But one--the largest--had to be climbed on
+equilibristic principles. Sheep tracks follow the face of the cliff in
+some places. Where a sheep can go a man can go, though he may not like
+jumps from bad footing to worse landing, where even sheep occasionally
+come to grief. Accordingly a track going horizontally here looked
+encouraging to the writer, till a flock of wild goats, signally scared,
+put his confidence to flight, for a wild goat will lead a man where he
+may find it necessary to make a prolonged halt. However the goat track
+vanished upward, and the seven-mile traverse was successfully completed
+to the Eagle's Nest.
+
+From the summit of Slieve League there is a fine oceanic view of island,
+headland, bay, and cliff. South-east of the summit, at a slightly lower
+altitude, is the _One Man's Pass_, about the terrors of which a great
+deal of rubbish has been written. It is a steep, narrow, short ridge of
+firm rock, which any mountaineer would walk up or down with his hands in
+his pockets. In a storm he would, however, adopt a worm-like attitude.
+The sides are very steep, but practicable both seaward and inland. It
+commands a superb view. Among the legends connected with Slieve League
+one about a Spaniard, a priest, and a pony is the most captivating (see
+_The Donegal Highlands_).
+
+[Illustration: ONE MAN'S PASS]
+
+Slieve League is capped by the remnants of outlying beds of lower
+carboniferous age, conglomerates, with fossil plant remains. Botanically
+also this mountain is most interesting, rivalling Ben Bulben for first
+place as a habitat for mountain plants in Ireland. There is an
+interesting feature visible from the summit--a group of spire-like
+pinnacles, close below the crest of the ridge. These are known as the
+'chimneys,' and form an attractive assemblage. They are of the same
+nature as the flying buttresses already spoken of.
+
+[Illustration: THE CHIMNEYS (SLIEVE LEAGUE)]
+
+Slieve League takes its name from 'liag' (flag). There is a flag
+formation near the summit. Bunglass is 'Green River Mouth,' but a modern
+guide-book translates Bunglass 'Beautiful View,' a ludicrous error
+explained by the fact that the point which gives so noble a prospect of
+Bunglass is known as Awark More ('Great View').
+
+_Croagh Gorm_ and _Blue Stack Mountains_ lie north and west of
+Barnesmore Gap and above Lough Eske, reaching nearly to Glenties, Lough
+Eske being about 30 miles east of Slieve League. The coast eastwards
+from Slieve League becomes suddenly low, and the formation changes to
+carboniferous limestone, which occupies a broad belt round Donegal Bay.
+The Blue Stack group is about 7 miles across.
+
+_Blue Stack_ (2,219 ft.) lies above Lough Eske and is granite, although
+the Lough itself lies in the limestone. About Lough Belshade, which lies
+north of Lough Eske, about half-way up the east side of Blue Stack, the
+granite is precipitous, and one bold bluff west of this lake (Belshade),
+with a sort of little cave in its face, may be taken in the ascent of
+the mountain. Most of the granite portions of the range are rounded,
+flowing, gently contoured, barren slopes of bare rock, sometimes at low
+elevations becoming steep and difficult. The ascent of Blue Stack from
+Lough Eske should on no account be missed. The lake is about 10 miles
+round, and most beautifully situated at the southern base of a bold mass
+of rugged, desolate granitic bosses and cliffs, cleft by a few fairly
+steep ravines. In direct contrast to this sombre scene is the west shore
+of the lake, which is girt with timber, chiefly natural. Ardnamona is
+the nearest portion of this sylvan scene to the mountain base, and the
+whole basin is admirably sheltered by the surrounding mountains from the
+violent storms which of late years have been more destructive than ever.
+
+From the road above Ardnamona, looking down over it upon Lough Eske and
+its solemn background, the view is perfect. It is a sort of compact
+Killarney, which the eye and mind will long feast upon.
+
+North-west of Blue Stack, a couple of miles from it, lies _Lavagh More_
+(2,211 ft.), a fine upstanding lump of turf-covered schists. Schists and
+sandstones constitute the greater part of these hills. From Lavagh More,
+descending southwards, by a series of lakes, the head of the Shrule
+River is reached, in a valley with a precipitous northern side, which
+gives difficult bits of crag work. In this valley at the northern end
+lies a waterfall known as the Grey Mare's Tail.
+
+The Blue Stack Mountains are best explored from Donegal on the south or
+Glenties on the west, in both of which places there are comfortable
+inns. It is best to drive to the head of Lough Eske, and it is a fine
+walk from that, including most of the tops, down to Martin's Bridge, 3
+miles from Glenties, over Blue Stack, Lavagh More, and Silver Hill.
+
+In the mountainous district around Glenties other excursions are
+available. A walk to be recommended is from Barnesmore Gap (drive of 7
+miles from Donegal) across the Croagh Gorm and Blue Stack summits to
+Glenties. Barnesmore Gap should by all means be visited. The mountains
+on either side rise 1,500 to 1,700 ft., not quite precipitously, but
+with bluffs, heavy boulders, and steep rocky faces. Cæsar Otway gives a
+highly-coloured description of this impressive scene. Another way to
+explore the group is to follow up the course of the Reelan water through
+a peculiarly secluded and remote valley. From Glenties to Ardara is
+about 4 miles, and the latter village is a capital halting place.
+Fishing and fowling can be had. The road from Ardara to Carrick, about
+10 miles, passes up the wild, grand gorge of Glen Gesh by a zigzag road,
+reminding one of some of the Swiss ascents. For the sake of the varied
+scenery obtained by these doublings it is almost preferable to stick to
+the road till near the summit. On the south side of this glen it is
+bounded by a range known as _Altnadewon_ or _Croaghnagcaragh_ (_Reek_,
+'hill of the thicket'). A steep rock face extends from the main road at
+the 'nock of the Ballagh,' or Pass, which forms a wide amphitheatre on
+the north face of the highest point of this range (1,652 ft.) For some
+distance it is by no means easy to scale this declivity.
+
+Towards the southern verge of the county the coast is low and flat, but
+the bold precipitous face of Ben Bulben looks highly attractive.
+
+Before leaving Donegal it will be well to mention one useful hint. The
+Ordnance maps of this county show 100-ft. contours, which are of the
+utmost advantage upon any excursion, as the height of any point attained
+by the pedestrian may be fixed within a hundred feet. Very few other
+parts of Ireland are thus favoured.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=The Ben Bulben Range= lies in the northern part of Sligo and Leitrim; a
+most conspicuous object in the landscape viewed from Slieve League
+across Donegal Bay. The shapely escarpment of the nearest point looks,
+indeed, as if it belonged to Donegal, which is 7 miles away. This
+portion consists of _Cloughcorragh_ (2,007 ft.) and _Ben Whiskin_ (1,666
+ft.)
+
+These mountains are almost entirely carboniferous limestone. Much of the
+group is an elevated plateau, girt round on all sides, or nearly so, by
+limestone precipices, usually some hundreds of feet high, rising from a
+long steep slope of débris. The height of the cliff edges is about 1,600
+ft., of which the talus occupies about two-thirds. The cliffs are fine,
+but consist largely of insecure blocks. Occasionally a fissure occurs,
+permitting ascent or descent, and some very steep ones are used on the
+south side of the range by turf-cutters.
+
+In consequence of this formation the pedestrian may find himself
+following a long series of cliff edges, without being able to discover a
+way of descent. To examine the cliffs the proper course is to follow the
+sheep walk, which usually occurs at the base of the precipices above the
+talus. The walk across the range, from Bundoran to Sligo, is full of
+interest to a mountaineer, and the descent into the valley north of
+Sligo from _King's Mountain_ is one that will never be effaced from his
+memory. It is not easy to find the passages leading down. The valley is
+a vast amphitheatre almost enclosed by cliffs, sheer and, including
+talus, about 1,000 ft. high.
+
+It is always a pleasant experience to follow the crest of a line of
+limestone cliffs. Similar cliffs on a smaller scale are those of Moher
+and Aran, in the county Clare. It is probably owing to the fissures and
+laminations of the limestone, which afford a perfect system of internal
+drainage, that such cliffs are not only dry and clean, but also free
+from the gullies and valleys which, causing frequent ups and downs,
+sometimes render cliff walks extremely fatiguing--near Waterford, for
+example. Again, limestone grows no heather and forms little peat, so
+that the usual footing is clean grass sod--very pleasant after hummocky
+tussocks--and yielding 'quaas.'
+
+For these mountains Kinlough is perhaps the most convenient centre.
+Manor Hamilton and Dromahaire may also be utilised, but Bundoran and
+Sligo, though the latter commands the beautiful Lough Gill, are too
+distant from the hills.
+
+It may be mentioned here that there are various attractions in Northern
+Ireland outside the scope of this work. Fishing is always in reach, and
+of late years golf has thriven apace. No finer links exist than those of
+Portsalon, Rosapenna, Portrush, and Newcastle, and there are many others
+of growing excellence.
+
+Ben Bulben is famous for its mountain flora, a valuable report on which,
+by Messrs. Barrington and Cowell, has been published by the Royal Irish
+Academy.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Mayo.= Here are the highest mountains in the west of Ireland, Mweelrea
+(2,688 ft.) and Nephin (2,646 ft.)
+
+[Illustration: MAYO AND CONNEMARA]
+
+_Nephin_ is a round, isolated lump of quartzite, becoming schistose,
+rapidly disintegrating on a northern spur, where the only declivities
+occur. For the mountaineer it is both distant and unattractive, but on
+clear days--which are rare--there is an extensive view.
+
+About 10 miles west of Nephin the axis of the Corslieve range is struck
+near the middle of its almost north and south direction. This chain of
+hills includes Laghdantybaun (2,369 ft.), at the northern end, Corslieve
+(1,785 ft.), Nephinbeg (2,065 ft.), and several others over 2,000 ft.
+The chain is about 15 miles in length, terminating near Newport, where
+fairly comfortable accommodation can be had. The northern hills are
+slate or sandstone, the southern quartzite. It is an interesting range,
+and the scenery is wild and rugged, but there is little true climbing.
+The best way to approach them is to drive from Leenane Inn to the Deel
+River, due north, and then strike west over a wet bog, full of dunlins,
+plover, and curlew.
+
+_Achill Island_ is about 15 miles west of Newport. The mountainous
+peninsula of Curraun Achill intervenes, and is about 7 miles across,
+rising to a tableland of 1,300 to 1,500 ft. in height, composed chiefly
+of horizontally-stratified sandstones and conglomerates, not very safe,
+but pleasant enough to follow along by the terraces on its north-eastern
+edge. Juniper is remarkably abundant here, and, at lower levels,
+Mediterranean heath.
+
+On Achill Island there is a comfortable hotel at the 'missionary
+settlement,' which is about 10 miles from the ferry. The settlement is
+at the base of Slieve More (2,204 ft.), the highest point of Achill.
+This mountain is well worthy of a visit, but far finer are the noble
+cliffs at Croghaun, about 5 miles west of Slieve More and 2,192 ft.
+above sea level.
+
+[Illustration: ACHILL HEAD]
+
+Achill is mainly quartzite, which rock invariably looks and is barren
+and forbidding.
+
+There are several points along these cliffs where a descent to the sea
+is practicable, and plenty of climbing is obtainable along the face of
+Croghaun, which may be traversed in all directions, the cliffs having
+the appearance and repute of being more inaccessible than they really
+are. The rock (quartzite) is broken into screes and heavy shingle in
+many places.
+
+_Croaghpatrick_ (2,510 ft.), famous for its unrivalled view, and
+formerly called 'The Reek,' has a northern face of precipitous
+declivities where the quartzite formation (as on Nephin) gives place to
+schists and shales. The view to the north of Clew Bay, with its hundreds
+of islets and Achill beyond, is unsurpassably lovely. The climbing is
+more of a 'slither' amongst rotten footing or shingle on the northern
+side. The summit is crowned with numerous cairns, being a famous
+'pattern.' The beautiful St. Dabeoc's or Connemara heath abounds.
+Westport, at its foot, has an excellent hotel, and it is better to
+return here from Achill, or vice versa.
+
+_Mweelrea._--Unlike the quartzite mountains, which are usually conical
+or dome-shaped, Mweelrea is of a totally different structure. Composed
+of Silurian slates chiefly, it forms an extensive tableland at the north
+of Killary Fiord, in the south-west corner of Mayo. It is intersected by
+three principal valleys, radiating at about equal angles from Doo Lough.
+One--that of Delphi and Bundorragha--runs southward to the Killary.
+Another--that of the Glenummera river and Owenduff river--has an
+easterly trend to the Eriff. The third valley is that of Doo Lough,
+Lough Cullin, and Lough Connel, which runs north-west to the sea. The
+names of many of these points, such as Delphi Mountain, the highest
+above Doo Lough, and Loughty Mountain, its elevated eastern spur, ending
+in Glen Laur--are not given on the Ordnance map, and were obtained from
+the natives. Error easily arises in nomenclature. A hill or ridge may
+have a name known to a few, or belonging to one slope, or to a people
+living on one side. Again, it may lie along the boundary of two town
+lands, and each may give its name to one side of it. Moreover the
+pronunciation is a study in itself. Near Newport there is a district
+called on the map Burrishoole, and a bay named Bellacragher. These are
+pronounced 'Brizzool' and 'Ballycroy.'
+
+The Mweelrea group consists of a series of plateaux, bounded by long
+ranges of precipices, ridges, and gullies, often ending in sheer
+ravines. Mweelrea itself fronts the mouth of Killary Fiord, curving in a
+grand tabular ridge, 2,600 ft. high, above two small lakes at 1,200 ft.
+The pass of Delphi and Doo Lough are the most imposing scenes in the
+west of Ireland for wildness and sombre grandeur.
+
+The climbing is of varying difficulty. Between their bases and the
+screes below tempting ledges wind upwards, but here the strata are
+almost vertical, rendering them extremely treacherous. A nasty fall
+impressed this peculiarity on the writer's memory. In other places the
+rock is sandstone, mixed with decomposing conglomerates--a formation
+worse to scale than any except the miocene trap rocks of the Antrim
+coast.
+
+There is one interesting and difficult climb. A lake--Glencullin ('Glen
+of Hollies') Lake--lies immediately north of Doo Lough. A stream runs
+into the south-west corner of this lake out of Glencullin, starting from
+a series of black, sunless precipices, seamed with gorges and well-nigh
+2,000 ft. high. These can be climbed by two gorges at least from base to
+summit. The name of these cliffs is Asko Keeran ('Ridge of Mountain
+Ash'), and when the crest is gained a fine walk is the reward, over Ben
+Bury (2,610 ft.) to the highest point, Mweelrea (2,688 ft.), along a
+curved ridge one to two miles long.
+
+One portion of the Mweelrea system--that which lies immediately east of
+Fin Lough or Delphi--is known as Ben Gorm, or Kead-na-binnian. The
+cliffs upon this mountain are formed chiefly of gneiss, which breaks up
+into blocks, owing to numerous transverse fissures across the
+lamination. These blocks lie on one another, often on a steep slope,
+owing to the roughness of their surfaces, which prevents their sliding.
+They are then more dangerous even than slaty rocks, since this very
+roughness beguiles a climber into feeling that the footing is safe at a
+steeper angle than on the smoother surfaces, while the rocks are merely
+in unstable equilibrium.
+
+Maamtrasna, Slieve Partry, the Formnamore Mountains, or Letterbrickaun
+('Wet Hill of Badgers'), abut upon the head of Killary Fiord. The
+highest points, or rather flats, are Devils Mother (2,131 ft.),
+Maamtrasna (Formnamore) (2,239 and 2,209 ft.) They are chiefly composed
+of sandstone and sandstone conglomerate, and form a series of high
+barren tablelands, dotted with pools, and of no interest whatever.
+
+The above group, as well as Mweelrea, is within easy reach of the
+excellent Leenane Inn at Killary.
+
+_Cliffs._--Of the numerous magnificent cliffs on the western seaboard of
+Ireland none, in the writer's opinion, excel those of North Mayo.
+Certain aspects of Slieve League are grander, the cliffs of Moher are
+more splendidly symmetrical, Horn Head, Dunaff Head, Achill, all have
+their glories, but the Mayo cliffs are unmatched for extent and variety.
+From Ballina by Ballycastle to Belmullet, round the coast, is the finest
+sea-cliff walk the writer has ever experienced. For three days there was
+no cessation of variety in shape, in sculpture, in colouring of the
+precipices, always lofty and always plunging into a surf-like snow
+beneath, fringing the blue ocean outside. Occasionally, but rarely,
+ravines occur, leading to some tiny rock-bound bay. The coast here for
+many miles is higher than the land inside, and the streams flow away
+from the sea to the south, and then west to the Atlantic. Perhaps the
+most hopeless area of undrainable bog in Ireland lies in Western and
+North-Western Mayo.
+
+Although it was impossible to omit mention of these cliffs, they are not
+for the climber. They are too sheer, and, what is worse, there is no
+accommodation. From Ballycastle west to Belderg is within reach. But it
+is west of Belderg that the cliffs are grandest, as at Glinsk, Doonmara,
+and Benwee Head. Without the happy fortune which enabled the writer to
+use a shooting lodge, located west of Belderg, the distances would have
+been impossible without camping out.
+
+From Belderg to Belmullet the rock is chiefly a hard and reliable
+quartzite, often seamed with dykes of basalt. Numerous needle-shaped
+islets, stacks, and stookawns occur. The whole coast abounds with sea
+fowl, and is singularly free from human influence, since the absence of
+bays, strands, or harbours renders long stretches of it uninhabitable
+even for fishermen.
+
+Otway's _Sketches in Erris and Tyrawley_ (1841) should be read.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Galway Mountains.=--The Galway Mountains, besides the Maamtrasna range,
+spoken of above, are _Maamturk range_, _Benchoona_, _Bennabeola_ or
+_Twelve Bens_ (or 'Pins').
+
+_Maamturk range_, including the hills which form such a conspicuous
+feature in Joyce's Country, extend, roughly speaking, from the Killary
+Hotel south-east to Lough Shindilia, at the Half-way House on the coach
+road from Clifden to Galway. It forms a zigzag series of beehive-shaped
+domes, connected by ridges, which are frequently 500 ft. to 1,000 ft.
+below the neighbouring summits. Usually these connecting ridges are set
+at angles with the tops quite at variance with the main axis of the
+chain, and are invisible from the summits, so that compass bearings are
+most misleading.
+
+These truncated mounds are composed mainly of gneiss, sometimes of
+quartzite, and in the northern portion the chain becomes more fertile
+and of a clayey, schistose nature. They are very similar to the Twelve
+Bens, save that the latter have their conical tops still adhering,
+apparently showing that this elongated line was more vulnerable than
+the self-protecting 'Pins' cluster.
+
+This chain is singularly barren, but so bold and conspicuous a feature
+in the landscape claims exploration. The writer once traversed the whole
+length of summits from the Half-way House to Leenane in a walk, or
+climb, for about 14 hours. The going is often excessively rugged and
+wearisome, owing to the loose detritus of heavy, angular quartzose
+blocks. An occasional oasis, as at Maumeen, charms the eye with its
+verdure and some botanical treasures. Near this an hotel once existed,
+but at present there is nothing nearer than Glendalough or Leenane, at
+the extreme ends of the range.
+
+Many a stiff bit of climbing, short and sharp, was met with on this most
+severe day's work, in making growingly reckless short cuts from summit
+to summit. From Leckavrea to the Killary there are about fifteen
+distinct summits, averaging 2,000 ft. in height.
+
+_Benchoona_ (1,975 ft.), a northern outlier of the Twelve Bens, lies at
+the mouth of the Killary, opposite Mweelrea. Killary Harbour or Fiord
+runs inland eastwards for some 15 miles. Benchoona is gneissose, with
+two summits, close on 2,000 ft., and a lake lies between them. Several
+Alpine plants occur among the north-east cliffs. The rock here is
+uncommonly dangerous to climb, being loosely constructed and apt to
+disintegrate in unexpectedly massive segments. On such an occasion,
+although against the dogma of climbing, a swift and sudden jump or
+spring is sometimes the only escape. The block--perhaps a ton or two in
+weight--which is quietly sliding, or more probably overturning, with
+its captive, yields momentum enough for a final kick to clear out
+altogether to any preferable station. These rocks are unfit to climb,
+and will only be meddled with for some special purpose.
+
+_Twelve Bens_ (2,391 ft.), within easy access of first-class hotels in
+Connemara, are huddled together in beautiful confusion, and offer
+problems of special interest in their puzzling geography and watershed
+system. Bennabeola is entered by no roads of any great penetration, but
+there are several valleys forming arteries with its very heart. Of these
+Glen Inagh from the east, Glen Coaghan from the south, and Owenglin from
+the west are the most important. The best method is to select a
+glen--Glen Coaghan for choice--and work to its head. Two or three
+summits will then probably lie equidistant. Most of these summits are of
+quartzite, with short heavy screes, white and extremely barren. The most
+interesting climb is upon the north of Muckanaght (2,150 ft.), which is
+connected with Benfree by a ridge at about 1,000 ft. The cliffs lie
+about 1,300 to 1,800 ft., and from near their upper edge to the summit
+(2,150 ft.) is a steep and perilous grassy slope.
+
+Muckanaght is about 2½ miles from the lovely Kylemore Lake. Two
+'Pins,' Benbaunbeg and Benfree, intervene. The peak itself is connected
+by ridges with Bencullagh and Benbaun South. From Muckanaght the heart
+of Bennabeola is laid bare, and, given a clear day, no better point of
+vantage could be desired.
+
+The Twelve Bens are in the heart of some of the loveliest scenery in
+the world, full of varied and interesting scrambles, and botanically
+they are pre-eminently the richest in mountain plants in Connaught,
+Croaghpatrick coming next.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Clare.=--_The Cliffs of Moher_ may be visited from excellent quarters
+at Lisdoonvarna (the 'Fort in the Gap'), in the north-west of Clare, a
+district known as the Burren. This district is formed of the
+carboniferous limestone which occupies most of Central Ireland.
+
+This formation, replete with carboniferous fossils, is remarkably
+monotonous and symmetrical. When it occurs in a cliff formation, as at
+Moher, or the south-western sides of the Aran Islands, it forms a sheer
+wall, absolutely vertical, to the sea, or else it is arranged in a
+series of terraces, like gigantic steps. Very rarely a chasm occurs,
+connecting two terraces. More often it is possible, by means of slight
+protruding ledges, to ascend an almost vertical face, since the rock is
+invariably either absolutely safe or easy to test. Sometimes, as at the
+southern end of the Moher cliffs, isolated pillars of rock occur, which
+are most pleasing to climb and pleasant to remain perched upon when
+climbed.
+
+These rocky surfaces of Aran and Burren are very tiresome and difficult
+to traverse, as the fissures (2-12 in. in width) between the blocks are
+often adjacent. The rock is usually cut into slabs, generally
+rectangular in shape. The loose blocks are piled by the inhabitants into
+tottering walls, which are difficult either to cross or upset with
+safety. The easiest way is to ascend gently and then jump with a kick
+behind. On Aran especially the going is most laborious.
+
+[Illustration: CLIFFS OF MOHER]
+
+As an instance of the sheerness of these cliffs on Aran boys may be seen
+fishing with a rodless line from their edge, 200 ft. above the water.
+Inland these cliffs run gradually in a series of irregular declivities,
+a gently sloping flagged platform to low levels.
+
+Much is done here by the natives in the way of egg-collecting, with the
+assistance of ropes, the eggs being chiefly those of guillemots, gulls,
+and razor-bills, and required for food.
+
+The cliff scenery of Moher is superb and unequalled. It has not the
+variety of stack, needle, ravine, that other formations have, but its
+very regularity is most harmoniously imposing. On the other hand, the
+brilliant and varying colouring of North Mayo or Slieve League, in
+Donegal, is entirely absent.
+
+The Aran Islands are visited from Galway by steamer. There is an hotel
+on the north island. They are full of ethnological and archæological
+interest.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Co. Down.= _Mourne Mountains._--This chain of granite hills covers an
+elliptic space of about 15 miles by 6, the longer axis stretching from
+Newcastle to Rosstrevor, where there are excellent hotels. From either
+point to the other is a day's walk that will well repay the labour, and
+can be made to include all the principal summits. The descent to
+Newcastle, through Donard Lodge woods, by the waterfall, is very pretty,
+and by varying the night's accommodation a still more beautiful route
+lies through Tollymore Park to Bryansford, where good quarters are
+obtainable.
+
+[Illustration: MOURNE MOUNTAINS]
+
+The highest points lie at the Newcastle or north-east extremity of the
+group. The southern portions are less interesting, and the western
+flanks are very dreary.
+
+These hills, being of granite, have few precipices, many rounded
+summits, sloping sides, and heavy screes, of the usual uncomfortable
+angular nature. The 'Eagle's Cliff,' a mile to the north of Slieve
+Donard, affords some climbing, and a little rock exercise can be had at
+'the Castles,' lying on a spur of Slieve Commedagh, to the west of
+Slieve Donard, below it and half a mile away.
+
+Slieve Bingian, in the south-east of the range, has a little easy
+climbing.
+
+There is also a considerable cliff on a shoulder north-west of Slieve
+Meel-more. It is known as Spellick, and is easily visited from
+Bryansford. It is worth examination, but the writer has not climbed it.
+
+The view from Slieve Donard is, of course, famous.
+
+The ascent from Bryansford, through Tullymore Park, taking Slieve
+Commedagh and the Castles _en route_, is perhaps the finest walk, so far
+as scenery is concerned, to be had in this picturesque cluster of
+mountains.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Co. Dublin.=--_Lambay_ is an island abounding in sea fowl and wild
+flowers, about 2½ miles from the nearest point of land, and about 10
+miles north-east of Dublin. It is best approached by boat from Donabate,
+or less conveniently from Howth, Malahide, Rush, or Skerries.
+
+The cliffs reach about 250 ft., and are practically sheer in many
+places, as on the north-east side at Freshwater Bay, or a little west
+of it, and on the south-east cliffs below Raven's Well.
+
+Several most interesting climbs are to be obtained on it. The best are
+on those cliffs west of Freshwater Bay.
+
+About 30 ft. above the water's edge at high-water mark there is a narrow
+and deep horizontal fissure, which in May is packed with breeding sea
+fowl. The ornithological visitor will at once feel it his duty to reach
+that fissure. The writer's first visit to Lambay was made in the company
+of one Dykes, known to be the best clifter on Howth. He pronounced this
+fissure inaccessible. There is a bend in the cliffs leading to the
+right-hand extremity of the fissure. Here lay the only chance, and the
+first two grips out of the boat are easy enough, raising one 6 or 8 ft.
+(or perhaps 15 if the tide is out) above the water. After that there are
+two enormous stretches, with practically no foothold. If these two
+points are passed, the fissure is in reach, and an ugly wriggle will
+land the unwelcome intruder on his anterior surface upon the narrow
+ledge forming its base.
+
+Dykes meantime was highly encouraging, calling out, 'Madness,' 'Break
+your neck,' 'You can never get down.' The climber had, however, an
+original plan of descent, and having, with considerable difficulty,
+divested himself of his garments, he dropped them first into the boat
+and then himself into the water.
+
+On revisiting these cliffs ten years later, and pointing out this climb
+to a very good rock-man, he failed to see how the climb was done, and so
+it had to be done again. This time, however, the tide was out, and on
+stripping to take the plunge it became at once apparent that a rock
+exactly in the line of descent was too near the surface. To climb down
+had always appeared dangerous, on account of the lack of foothold and
+the very awkward nature of the backward movement out of the fissure. So
+an attempt was made on the wall above.
+
+It is marvellous how a naked man can adhere to a cliff. For a full hour
+an unhappy preadamite man writhed and glued himself against the face of
+that cliff, descending and reascending by new lines, but always checked
+by a straight wall about 150 ft. up. Anything appeared better than that
+hateful descent. Some friends ran to a coastguard station a mile or more
+away for a rope. However before they reappeared the descent was faced
+and safely accomplished.
+
+This sketch will serve to show that high mountains are by no means
+necessary for the practice of rock-climbing, the very best of which is
+constantly attainable along the coast. Owing to the working of the ocean
+waves unsafe pieces are almost certainly removed, and the cliff, at its
+lower parts at any rate, is invariably firm and safe. It is fine sport
+to choose a steep rocky coast at, say, half-tide in spring, and travel
+between high and low water marks as far as may be during the six hours.
+It should be a point of honour not to ascend, but if forced to take to
+the water excellent practice and much amusement is obtainable in this
+way, and the slippery nature of the rock teaches sureness of foot.
+Nailed boots are, of course, indispensable.
+
+The geological formation of Lambay is principally felstone porphyry.
+Some stratified Silurian shales and limestone occur, and there is a
+small sheet of old red sandstone, with conglomerates. The rock is in
+general hard and reliable.
+
+_Howth_ is a promontory with a village about 9 miles from Dublin, for
+the people of which it is a favourite resort. From Balscaddan Bay, on
+the north, to an almost opposite point, Drumleck Point, on the south,
+the east coast is composed of cliffs (200-300 ft.), sometimes abrupt,
+sometimes ending above in grass slopes, very slippery in hot weather,
+which have caused many accidents.
+
+A very interesting scramble, with many nasty traverses over these steep
+grass slopes, may be had round Howth Head. Keeping to the upper edge of
+the rocks, it is necessary to ascend once at Kilrock, but after that the
+whole headland may be climbed at about the medium height of the cliffs.
+On the way a 'needle' or 'stack' will here and there attract attention,
+and perhaps seem worth assaulting. About Piper's Gut a small gully is
+difficult to pass. North of that a saddle rock leads to a pinnacle, but
+it is of rotten rock. The cliffs of this part of Howth are exceedingly
+picturesque, but in some places they are extremely unsafe. From Howth,
+on a very clear day, the Welsh hills, apparently those about
+Penmaenmawr, are visible.
+
+_Ireland's Eye._ A small rocky island, 340 ft. high, about a mile north
+of Howth. At its north-east corner there is a bold columnar rock with a
+tabular summit, partly severed from the island. On its outer face it is
+very sheer, and to gain the summit is a very short but interesting and
+somewhat difficult climb. The return is not so bad, as a sidelong spring
+saves a portion of the worst bit.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Wicklow.=--Wicklow forms the third county in Ireland in which the
+mountains rise to a height of over 3,000 ft., Kerry and Tipperary being
+the other two.
+
+The higher mountains lie in the broad band of granite formation which
+extends in a nearly southerly direction from near Dublin through Wicklow
+and Carlow counties.
+
+Being granite they are as a rule round masses of wide extent, often
+covered with peat bogs; so that although Wicklow contains the most
+continuous extent of elevated (over 1,000 ft.) moorland in Ireland,
+there are few cliffs of any consequence, and no peaks or summits
+presenting upon any side material of interest to the rock-climber.
+Nevertheless there are fine stretches of mountain, affording excellent
+training ground. What cliffs there are occupy the most lovely scenery in
+one of the loveliest Irish counties.
+
+_Powerscourt Waterfall._--The rocks to the left of the fall, which is
+kindly left open to the public by Lord Powerscourt, the popular
+landlord, are nasty, especially in wet or frosty weather. Although not
+much over 250 feet in height several lives have been lost in this
+ascent, chiefly, no doubt, owing to the inexperience of the unfortunate
+visitors. This dangerous though tempting portion has been for several
+years railed off, and is not supposed to be trespassed upon. During the
+severe winter of the present year (February 1895) the waterfall
+presented an Arctic appearance. An interesting account of an ascent of
+it, or rather of the above-mentioned rocks, was sent to an Irish paper
+in that month. The climb was effected by a friend of the writer's (a
+member of the Alpine Club) and another, with ropes and ice axes. The
+cliff was covered with ice and snow. The same party ascended Djonce
+(2,384 ft.), which lies above the waterfall, during a blizzard at a
+temperature of 18°, upon the same day. Unhappily a very few days
+afterwards a promising young life was lost upon these very rocks. The
+falls are visited by very large numbers of holiday-makers.
+
+The rocks of Powerscourt, which lie against the Wicklow granites, are
+composed of metamorphic beds of gneiss and schists. Powerscourt is about
+7 miles from Bray.
+
+_Tonelagee Mountain_ ('Back to the Wind' Mountain) (2,694 ft.), a round
+mass of moorland, has on the northern shoulder a crater-like valley,
+containing a tarn, Lough Ouler, and cliffs of schistose, some 400 to 500
+ft. high, descending from near the summit to the margin of the lake. An
+interesting scramble may be made from the Military Road, about a mile
+above Glenmacanass Waterfall, which lies some 6 miles from Glendalough
+Hotel; but a short cut to Lough Ouler is easily found by going up the
+Glendasan valley 3 miles towards Wicklow Gap, and then striking up
+northwards over the shoulder of Tonelagee.
+
+Wicklow county is very poor in highland plants, and these cliffs alone
+possess species of any interest.
+
+Other cliffs in county Wicklow are those of Luggielaw ('Hollow of the
+Hill'), above Lough Tay; the Eagle's Nest, above Lower Lough Bray; a
+small series of bluffs above Lough Nahanagan, and the Prisons of
+Lugnaquilia. In winter the latter, lying high (2,700 to 3,039 ft.),
+afford excellent glissading and cornice work. But, unless the season is
+severe there is too much heavy trudging to be done. All the above
+precipices lie in most attractive scenery, nor must the famous cliff
+above Glendalough, containing St. Kevin's Bed, be omitted. But none of
+them affords desirable scope for climbing practice. The granite
+'Prisons' of Lugnaquilia are attractive in appearance, but all the cliff
+faces are ready to drop to pieces. Mullaghclevaun ('Summit with the
+Cradle' or 'Creel'), 2,783 ft., contains no climbing.
+
+Since Wicklow affords the nearest opportunities to Dublin mountaineers,
+we may mention a few one-day walks from that city which have been
+accomplished by the writer.
+
+Practically the only artery through these mountains is the _Military
+Road_, constructed after the rebellion of 1798 to connect a series of
+now disused barracks. This road, from 'Billy's Bridge' at Upper
+Rathfarnham, about 5 miles from Dublin, is over 35 miles to Aughavanagh.
+It passes through an almost uninhabited country, and much of it lies
+from 1,000 to 1,500 feet above sea level, and it is the pedestrian's
+main anxiety to regain the comparative security of the Military Road
+before night sets in on the wide stretches of tussocky moorland.
+
+To clear the suburbs it is well to take the tram to Terenure (3 miles).
+Terenure; Ballinascorney Gap; Coronation Plantation (3 to 3¼ hours);
+Sally Gap; Military Road; Lough Bray (5 hours); back to Terenure (7½
+hours: 34 miles).
+
+Terenure; Lough Ouler; Tonelagee summit (6 hours); Mullaghclevaun summit
+(7½ hours); Ballysmutton (9½ hours); home by Ballinascorney Gap
+(13½ hours: 48 miles). From Bray this walk is about 5 miles shorter.
+
+Bray, over Bray Head, Little Sugarloaf, Big Sugarloaf (1,680 ft.),
+Djonce Mountain (2,384 ft.), and Kippure (2,473 ft.); Lough Bray, by
+Military Road, to Terenure: about 11 hours.
+
+Terenure; Ballinascorney Gap; Seacaun; Kippure; Lough Bray; Terenure
+(about 8 hours).
+
+Terenure; Lough Bray; Kippure (2½ hours); Gravale (2,352 ft.); Duff
+Hill (2,364 ft.--very heavy going); Mullaghclevaun summit (6 hours);
+Tonelagee summit (7½ hours); Lough Ouler; Military Road; Terenure (14
+hours; about 50 miles).
+
+Glendalough; Dublin (7¾ hours); Glendasan; Wicklow Gap; summit of
+Tonelagee (11 hours); summit of Mullaghclevaun; Clevaun Lake;
+Ballymullagh old road; across Liffey at Ballysmutton bridge;
+Ballinascorney Gap; Terenure (20 hours, including rests and delays by
+bog; 62 miles).
+
+Terenure; Lough Bray (3 hours); Laragh (7½ hours); Glenmalure;
+Drumgoff Hotel (9 hours 5 minutes--1½ hour's rest); Lugnaquilia
+(3,039 ft., 12¾ hours); Tonelagee summit (16¼ hours);
+Mullaghclevaun summit (17 hours 40 minutes); Ballysmutton farm (19 hours
+40 minutes--35 min. rest); Ballinascorney Gap; Terenure (23 hours 50
+minutes; 75 miles).
+
+The ascent of Lugnaquilia direct from Glendalough, over Lugduff, round
+the head of Glenmalure, and up by Kelly's Lough is perhaps the finest
+walk in Wicklow.
+
+It is a fine day's walk along the coast from Bray to Arklow, or Bray to
+New Rath Bridge, and thence by the Devil's Glen to Glendalough.
+
+In a wild, uncultivated county, like Wicklow, experience in the use of
+map and compass may be gained by setting a course from Woodenbridge to
+Glendalough, about 12 miles, or from Glendalough to the Scalp or
+Sugarloaf, on the way to Dublin, some 40 miles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Kerry.=--_Brandon_ (3,127 ft.) is of the same formation as that of the
+Reeks, i.e. the lower old red sandstone. The Brandon rocks are, in
+general, hard grits, firm and good to climb.
+
+The accommodation on this promontory of Corkaguiny is no doubt improved
+since the construction of Mr. Balfour's light railway from Tralee to
+Dingle; but Dingle lies 8 miles to the south of Brandon.
+
+I obtained very inferior accommodation at Cloghane, on an inlet at the
+eastern base of the mountain; and cleaner and better, but not so
+convenient, from a coastguard at Ballydavid, to the west of Brandon. For
+the other mountains on the promontory, Castle Gregory is centrally
+situated, but in all these cases (except Dingle) it is highly advisable
+to make previous arrangements and supplement the native fare with a
+hamper.
+
+The coast of the Brandon promontory (which was traversed throughout) is
+often highly precipitous; indeed, from Cloghane on the north to
+Anniscaul on the south the western extremity is almost entirely so, and
+many stiff bits of climbing were accomplished, whether in pursuit of
+scenery, of a direct course, of objects of natural history, or, perhaps,
+more frequently out of what an Irishman would call 'natural divilment.'
+A few years ago no language would have sufficed in abuse of the
+accommodation at Anniscaul, but, as it is now a railway station, no
+doubt this is all changed.
+
+[Illustration: KERRY]
+
+_Brandon Peak and Brandon Summit._--The most enjoyable way to make the
+first acquaintance with these mountains is to ascend Connor Hill, to the
+north-west of Dingle, and follow the ridge by Beenduff, Ballysitteragh,
+Geashane, and Brandon Peak to the summit. The peak is about 400 ft.
+lower than and a little south of Brandon proper. Along this ridge,
+looking north and north-west, there is a fine rocky face before reaching
+the peak. After that point a range of cliffs, several hundred feet in
+altitude, meets the loftier cliffs above Lake Nalacken, looking east. At
+the head of the Feany valley, under Brandon, these cliffs afford an
+interesting descent. The range gives plenty of practice in rock work.
+
+Alpine plants occur mainly on the north and north-east cliffs, and are
+more numerous than on the loftier Reeks.
+
+_Brandon from Cloghane._--From Cloghane the ascent may be made amongst
+fine cliffs and rock-climbing, by making south-east for Lough Cruttia,
+the largest lake under Brandon to its east. It is better to follow the
+road southwards a mile or two, to save uninteresting moorland. From this
+lake it is a short distance to the north-west of Lough Nalacken, and by
+striking in east at once to the cliffs a good climb is obtainable. Lough
+Cruttia is about 700 ft. above sea level. Between the upper lough and
+the cliffs the surface is a desolate extent of polished naked grits,
+strewn with boulders. Crossing this a somewhat dangerous gully leads up
+to the cliffs at about 1,650 ft. The ascent of this is about 300 ft.,
+and a stiff climb and afterwards some 400 ft. of cliffs may be tackled
+in various ways.
+
+There are numerous ledges, and it is the best botanical ground in the
+mountains. The cliffs 'go' splendidly. In a lake south of the two
+mentioned above, locally named Lough Bawn, or the 'White Lake,' lives
+the enormous 'carrabuncle.' It appears fitfully at night, glittering
+like silver in the water with gold and silver and precious stones
+hanging to it galore. It is partly covered with shells, which are lined
+with gold. Upon one occasion several men went to the lake at night and
+dived in oilskins to catch this valuable monster. They did not catch
+him; but pearl mussels, no doubt shed from the carrabuncle, are found in
+the lake.
+
+_Brandon Point and Brandon Head._--From Cloghane it is a fine hard walk
+right round Brandon Point and Brandon Head. At the cliffs of Slieveglass
+(1,050 ft.) a bay of extreme grandeur is opened, bound on three sides by
+lofty precipices and with a depth and sea frontage of about half a mile.
+There is a shepherd's settlement, Arraghglin, on the coast, which has to
+be closely approached. A more bleak habitation can hardly be conceived;
+neither road nor even track leads to it. It is now several hours' work
+to round the sea face of Brandon Head, at altitudes varying from 500 to
+1,200 ft., to Ballydavid. If accommodation has not been arranged for
+here the walk to Dingle will be found most wearisome, and at all trouble
+a car should be provided.
+
+_Macgillicuddy's Reeks_ contain the highest summits in Ireland. They
+extend from the Gap of Dunloe, the eastern extremity, to the Beenbane
+spur near Glencar, about 10 miles west from the Gap. The scenery is
+magnificent. From Lake Auger, in the Gap, the climber ascends at once by
+a series of precipitous bluffs to an elevation of about 2,000 ft. Still
+ascending along a serrated ridge, an elevation of about 3,000 ft. is
+reached above Lough Cummeenapeasta, about 2½ miles west of the Gap of
+Dunloe. For several miles this ridge can be traversed at about the above
+altitude. The ridge frequently becomes a mere knife-edge, and in several
+places descends abruptly and precipitously to some of the numerous tarns
+and cooms nestling 1,000 to 1,500 ft. below. A more perfect mountain
+excursion can hardly be conceived. The ridge carries us to the shoulder
+of Carran Tuohill, and from its summit a northern branch extends to
+Beenkeragh (3,314 ft.) and to Skregmore (2,790 ft.) The axis proper
+continues to Caher (3,200 ft.) and Curraghmore (2,680 ft.) Here we reach
+a gap connecting Cummeenacappul (Horse's Valley) with the Valleys of
+Caragh and Cummeenduff, or the Black Valley. West of it is the Beenbane
+spur, a lower elevation of no interest. The Reeks are chiefly composed
+of hard green and purple grits, and sandstone of old red sandstone age.
+The rocks are generally firm and safe to climb amongst.
+
+There is a comfortable angler's hotel at Glencar, at the western end of
+the Reeks. This is the best adapted for the immediate neighbourhood of
+the higher points, but to reach some of the most interesting climbing it
+is better to distribute one's attentions equally between Killarney and
+Glencar. From Killarney (Railway Hotel) two methods are available--one
+by car to the Gap of Dunloe, or further to the Hag's Glen, up a steep
+mountain road, and from either of these as starting-point some excellent
+rock work is available. From the Gap as starting-point a long day can be
+spent, descending at night to Glencar Hotel. The other method is to boat
+from Killarney (enjoying exquisite scenery) to Lord Brandon's cottage at
+the western extremity of the upper lake. Here begins a long, dull
+ascent, rewarded by the splendid view from the ridge into the heart of
+the Reeks. Or these routes can be reversed.
+
+[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF
+
+KILLARNEY]
+
+Guides swarm here. None of these have the slightest knowledge of
+climbing, and should one be engaged the first deviation from the easiest
+ascent, or departure into gully or ravine, will put a conclusion to his
+services. A wiry, bragging, long-legged shepherd undertook to accompany
+the writer by any ascent he selected from the Hag's Glen to Carran
+Tuohill, to be paid five shillings at the summit. At the foot of the
+first gully, with many heart-felt remonstrances and gesticulations, he
+disappeared, not even thinking it worth while to make an easier ascent.
+On this account it is all the more necessary to be unfailingly provided
+with the Ordnance map and a thoroughly good compass. An aneroid
+barometer is also of great assistance, especially in mist, for a
+knowledge of the altitude often enables a lake or a peak to be
+identified.
+
+_Cumloughra_ (3,100 ft.)--Starting from Glencar Hotel, a few tedious
+miles bring us across a country road to Lake Acoose (507 ft.) Passing
+round the south edge of the lake, a ridge (about 900 ft.) is crossed,
+and ere long Lake Eighter, at the entrance to Cumloughra (1,500 ft.), is
+reached. If we pass along the shores of the lake to the south-western
+edge, a few hundred feet up an open gully brings us to a series of
+cliffs south-west from Cumloughra lake. The rock is sound, and a fine,
+almost vertical ascent of 1,000 ft. may be made, striking the ridge of
+Caher (3,000 ft.) 200 ft. below the summit. It is a severe climb and
+very long, entailing many zigzags. There is no main gully to adhere to,
+and the cliffs are less impracticable than they look. Along the west
+side of the two lakes the cliffs are easier.
+
+_Carran Tuohill_ (3,414 ft.)--Cars from Killarney stop at the Geddagh
+River. Cross it, sweep to the right and back, and then follow the valley
+by a fair path between two lakes to the Devil's Ladder and up it to the
+_col_. The summit is then on the right hand. The writer was once
+fortunate enough to ascend this summit through a cloud layer of about
+1,500 ft. thick, which ceased a short distance below the summit. Above
+was a clear blue sky, and peering out of the dense white, snowlike bed
+of mist Caher and Brandon (the latter 30 miles to the north-west, the
+former not a mile away) alone were visible--a never to be forgotten
+sight, which seemed shut out entirely from earthly considerations.
+Descending _into_ the clouds, the ridge leading southwards towards
+Cummeenoughter, or Devil's Looking Glass (Upper Coom), was taken by
+mistake, and an exceedingly nasty traverse across huge, dangerously
+sloping slabs was necessary in order to regain Carran Tuohill and find
+the Caher ridge.
+
+_Beenkeragh_ (3,100 ft.)--Between Beenkeragh and Skregmore (2,600 ft.)
+there lies an inviting glen, sunk in black precipices. These cliffs are
+to be avoided. At several points an attempt was made to scale them, but
+the rock is most rotten. Near Beenkeragh is a ridge running a little
+west of north for half a mile, and bounding the Devil's Looking Glass
+and the Hag's Glen on their west. This ridge is reached by an easy gully
+known as the _Devil's Ladder_, about 300 ft. below Beenkeragh.
+
+_Devil's Looking Glass_ (Cummeenoughter). This tarn lies at the head of
+the Hag's Glen, at an elevation of 2,500 ft. It is three-parts encircled
+by a fine series of cliffs. At the western corner of this bold girth of
+precipices the finest view in the Reeks may be obtained, looking over
+the Looking Glass, and the lakes below in the Hag's Glen, across heights
+and peaks and valleys to Cummeenapeasta. Excellent climbing is to be had
+here. The rock is a purple sandstone, and one shoulder of an
+inaccessible appearance can be climbed throughout, owing to the firmness
+of grip and the recurrence of suggestive little footholds.
+
+_Lake Auger_ (Gap of Dunloe).--These cliffs terminate upwards in the
+Bull's Mountain at about 1,500 ft. The lake is about 350 ft. above sea
+level. Almost immediately after leaving the lake we come upon a series
+of bluffs and terraces occasionally communicating with one another, but
+more often uniting to form smooth-faced walls. Great care and
+discrimination have to be exercised in selecting ledges that do not
+terminate upon such faces, as there is little hand grip, and turning to
+retrace one's steps is most unpleasantly difficult and dangerous. The
+climbing here is most excellent and exciting, but the writer often felt
+sorely in need of a companion and a rope. It is in such places as these,
+inaccessible to sheep and goats, that hawkweeds occur, and in search of
+these, places were reached which rendered the summit of Bull's Mountain
+(when gained) extremely welcome.
+
+_The Hag's Glen._--Making the ascent from here to the westward, we reach
+another valley between Hag's Glen and Old Finglas River. At about 1,800
+ft. a very black gully leads up to the main ridge from its northern
+side. It is occasionally blocked with huge masses of rock, which render
+détours along the boundary walls necessary, and, as is often the case,
+it becomes very difficult afterwards to regain the gully. This gully is
+a very tough climb. The Hag's teeth (there are two) are conical knobs of
+no difficulty, along a ridge running into the glen.
+
+_Lake Googh_ (1,600 ft.)--This lake lies on the south side of the main
+axis of the Reeks. Above it rises to the northwards a series of coombs,
+or high-lying valleys, which can be traversed by separate and often
+interesting scrambles till the main ridge is reached. This is a very
+interesting ascent. It is often rather a matter of chance whether the
+gully selected will be available to its end for the next coomb level,
+and a retracement of steps will frequently have to be effected. Nothing
+is less pleasing than to have to go back down a gully which it was a
+small triumph to have ascended in safety. This valley is singularly
+dark, damp, and grand; and it is more rich in ferns than any other
+portion of the Reeks.
+
+_Cloon Lake and Lough Reagh._--Although these cliffs are not a portion
+of the Reeks, they are mentioned here as being easily reached from
+Glencar Hotel. They lie south of Lough Reagh, which is separated only by
+a marsh from Lough Cloon, and are a most superbly rugged cluster of
+sugar-loaf peaks huddled together and often separated by sheer
+precipices and inaccessible ravines. Unfortunately they are of easy
+access from the southern or Sneem side. Many gullies of sound rock
+occur. Bad weather on two different visits rendered climbing here an
+unpleasant experience, but enough was seen to enable the writer to
+pronounce the district well worthy of a visit. _Mount Aitchin_ (Whin
+Mount) is the chief summit. Golden eagles bred recently amongst these
+cliffs.
+
+Coming down once from these mountains towards Lough Reagh, facing
+northwards, in a blinding mist, an uncommon sort of descent was
+obtained. Not knowing the nature of the ground, or indeed our
+whereabouts, we struck blindly over a declivity, turning at length to a
+sheer cliff whose termination was invisible. This cliff or series of
+cliffs is broken into ledges, all coated with a long growth of woodrush.
+Glissading and holding on brought us in unexpected safety to the valley
+below. Return would have been impossible by the way of our descent.
+
+Other mountains in the neighbourhood of Killarney are _Mangerton_ (2,756
+ft.); _Toomies_ (2,415 ft.); _Purple Mountain_ (2,739 ft.); _Turc
+Mountain_ (1,764 ft.), and the _Paps_ (2,268 ft.) Of these none afford
+any real climbing. On Mangerton, however, the Horse's Glen is surrounded
+by rocky declivities, and the Devil's Punch Bowl has a slight cliff
+above it. From Killarney by rail to Headfort, and then back over the
+Paps and Mangerton, and through the Horse's Glen, is a fine walk.
+Another fine walk is from the lake, whither one proceeds from Killarney
+by boat, up Toomies Mountain, over Purple Mountain, and Turc Mountain,
+and Mangerton can be included on the way back.
+
+The Eagle's Cliff, above the lake, looks climbable and is reported to
+have been done. The writer, hurrying to the Reeks, always grudged time
+for the attempt.
+
+_Blasquets Islands_ lie off the extreme west of Kerry. They consist
+generally of grits and slates.
+
+Mr. Barrington (_Report on the Flora, &c._) describes the Great Blasquet
+as a ridge about 700 ft. high for most of its length, but for about a
+mile it exceeds 900 ft. The ridge is almost perpendicular in many
+places. 'The cliffs and precipices are very grand, notably the
+north-western face of the Great Blasquet and the north-eastern portion
+of Inishnabro, which latter resembles, when viewed from the sea, a
+cathedral 500 ft. high, the towers, spires, and even doors and windows
+being represented. Inishtooskert has an isolated pinnacle of rock, with
+a great chasm in the cliff near it, scarcely less striking. The Tearaght
+is like a black tooth projecting from the ocean, its sides being rocky,
+desolate, and very barren.' The present writer was prevented from
+reaching these islands by stormy weather.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Co. Cork.=--_Sugarloaf Mountain_ (2,440 ft.)--An isolated, bare,
+conical peak, at the head of the Black Valley (Cummeenduff), the
+southern boundary of the Reeks. Sunshine after rain makes it glitter
+like a snowy peak. The rock is steep and glaciated. On the steepest face
+an interesting ascent may be made--easy, but requiring extreme care.
+
+South of the Kenmare River the hills are of less interest, though the
+beautiful Glengariff lies amongst them.
+
+_Hungry Hill_ (2,251 ft.) presents one precipitous face to the west,
+where a piece of interesting gully work occurs. The writer has reason to
+remember it, owing to the imprisonment of a bull-terrier, the property
+of a companion, in the middle of the climb. After completing the ascent
+the deafening howls of the prisoner made it necessary to work round to
+the base of the gully and help the beloved creature down. An almost
+identical incident occurred in a worse situation in the Poisoned Glen of
+Donegal. A bit of rope should be attached to the neck of any dog that
+follows a rock-climber.
+
+_Gougaun Barra_ ('St. Fin Bar's Rock-Cleft') is a gorge on the road west
+from Macroom to Bantry. The cliffs around rise from a desolate valley to
+meet the slopes of the mountains, 1,700-1,800 ft. high.
+
+On the road Keimaneigh ('the Pass of the Deer') is traversed, a gorge
+through the Sheha hills some 2 miles in length. It is a scene of wild
+beauty, and was the head-quarters of the band under 'Captain' Rock. This
+defile can be visited from Inchigeelagh, a few miles eastwards, where
+there is good fishing and accommodation.
+
+On Gougaun Barra, Otway (_Scenes and Sketches in Ireland_) and Smith
+(_History of Cork)_ have a good deal to say.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Tipperary.=--_The Galtee Mountains_ extend about 15 miles from Caher at
+the eastern to Massy Lodge at the western extremity. The ridge slopes
+gently to the south, but abruptly to the vale of Aherlow on the north.
+
+The formation is Silurian, with overlying beds of old red sandstone
+conglomerate forming the summit of Galtymore (3,018 ft.) The Silurian
+beds form considerable precipices upon the north, almost enclosing
+numerous tarns, from which interesting ascents may be made.
+
+The best head-quarters for the mountains is Tipperary, about 6 miles
+north of the base of the range below its highest point. No doubt,
+however, accommodation could be arranged for at some of the farmhouses
+in the vale of Aherlow. The entire range from Caher to Mitchelstown
+forms a splendid walk. Lough Curra and Lough Muskry are the most
+interesting points to make for, and lie amongst the finest cliffs. Lough
+Diheen is the most remote and barren.
+
+At Lough Curra the cliffs descend 1,000 ft. sheer into the water. These
+cliffs afford attractive but dangerous climbing. They reach to within a
+couple of hundred feet of the highest point, known as Dawson's Table, or
+Galtymore.
+
+Still grander, however, are the cliffs above Lough Muskry. These tower
+to a height of about 1,200 ft. in great terraces and vegetated walls
+above the north and north-east ends of the lake. Numerous clefts,
+ravines, and ledges exist.
+
+Should the climber get pounded here (as not seldom happens) let him
+beware of undue haste. A mouthful of food has a wonderful effect in
+steadying the nerves. The holds here are often sods of dubious security,
+and the Muskry precipices, though they _can_ be traversed in all
+directions, are the severest amongst the Galtees.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Co. Waterford.= _Commeragh Mountains._--The Commeragh Mountains may be
+explored from Kilmacthomas on the south, Clonmell on the west, or Caher
+on the north. They form an elevated plateau, bounded on all sides by
+steep and frequently inaccessible precipices, which enclose cooms and
+tarns. The highest point is 2,597 ft., and the rock is for the most part
+sandstone or conglomerate of the old red sandstone period. Slates and
+shales occur on the northern side.
+
+The cliffs can be climbed in many places. As on the Galtees, a few
+miles west, dense masses of a species of woodrush often render the
+holding treacherous. Smith (_History of Waterford_, 1774) says, 'On the
+sides of this chain there are many horrid precipices, and steep
+declivities, with large naked rocks. In the valleys considerable chips,
+or parings, lie in prodigious heaps.'
+
+The most imposing precipices are those enclosing in a magnificent sweep
+the Stilloge Lakes, on the south side of the group; and those above
+Coonshingaun Lough and Crotty's Lough at the eastern end.
+
+This east lake takes its name from one Crotty, an outlaw, who made his
+home in a cave here during the last century. Legends of this worthy
+abound in the district.
+
+The cliffs are often wholly inaccessible without a rope, but a great
+deal of excellent climbing can be effected with no artificial aids. In
+search of rare plants the writer has made several distinct ascents above
+the Stilloges, and also at Coonshingaun, quite apart from the easier
+gully tracks, by which the ordinary visitor gains the top. The mountains
+are singularly picturesque. The verdure-clad cliffs, overhanging the
+deep, rock-bound, lonely tarns, have an effect that is at once rare and
+beautiful.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Aber, 1
+
+Aberglaslyn, 95
+
+Abergynolwyn, 10
+
+Accidents, 1, 2, 9, 21, 25, 54, 56, 58, 67, 70, 72, 73, 82, 86, 88, 89,
+  90, 91, 108, 126, 139, 176
+
+Achill, 158
+
+Anglesey, 15
+
+Antrim, 131
+
+Aranmore Island, 143
+
+Arans (The), 99
+
+Arenig Fawr, 98
+
+Asko Keeran, 162
+
+
+Bala, 2
+
+Barmouth, 3
+
+Barnesmore Gap, 153
+
+Beddgelert, 3
+
+Beddgelert (Snowdon from), 4
+
+Beenkeragh, 186
+
+Ben Bulben, 155
+
+Benchoona, 165
+
+Benglog, 5
+
+Berwyn Mountains, 94
+
+Bethesda, 6
+
+Bird Rock, 108
+
+Black Ladders, 19
+
+Black Mountains, 13, 126
+
+Blaenau Ffestiniog, 9
+
+Blasquets, 189
+
+Blue Stack, 152
+
+Braichddu, 18, 19
+
+Brandon, 179
+
+Brecon Beacons, 13
+
+Bronyfedw, 14
+
+Bryansford, 169
+
+Bull's Mountain, 187
+
+Bunglas, 145
+
+Burton Port, 143
+
+Bwlch Cwm y Llan, 87
+
+Bwlch Goch, 61
+
+Bwlch y Saethau, 76
+
+
+Caddy of Cwm Glas, 60
+
+Cader Fronwen, 94
+
+Cader Idris, 106
+
+Cambrian Railway, 7, 95
+
+Capel Curig, 6
+
+Carnarvonshire, 16
+
+Carndonagh, 135
+
+Carnedd Dafydd, 17
+
+Carnedd Llewelyn, 23
+
+Carnedd Ugain, 67
+
+Carnedd y Filiast, 25
+
+'Carrabuncle' (The), 181
+
+Carran Tuohill, 185
+
+Carrick Hotel, 145
+
+Carrig-a-Rede, 133
+
+Castell Cidwm, 93
+
+Castell Gwynt, 34
+
+Castles (The), 171
+
+Cefnysgolion Duon, 19
+
+Clare Co., 167
+
+Clew Bay, 160
+
+Cloghane, 179
+
+Clogwyn Aderyn, 69
+
+Clogwyn Penllechen, 69
+
+Clogwyn y Garnedd, 72
+
+Clogwyn y Person, 58
+
+Clogwyndur Arddu, 89
+
+Closs (Death of), 91
+
+Cnicht, 96
+
+Commeragh Mountains, 192
+
+Cork Co., 190
+
+Corris, 10
+
+Cox (Mr.), 88
+
+Craig Ddrwg, 98
+
+Craig Eryri, 54
+
+Craig y Bera, 94
+
+Craig yr Ysfa, 21
+
+Craiglyn Dyfi, 103
+
+Crazy Pinnacle, 64
+
+Crib Goch, 60
+
+Crib y Ddysgl, 66
+
+Croagh Patrick, 160
+
+Croghaun, 158
+
+Cumloughra, 185
+
+Cwm Creigiog, 88
+
+Cwm Dyli, 68
+
+Cwm Glas, 56
+
+Cwm y Llan, 87
+
+Cyfrwy, 113
+
+Cynfael Falls, 9
+
+Cynicht, 96
+
+
+Dawson's Table, 192
+
+Denbighshire, 94
+
+Devil's Kitchen, 28
+
+Devil's Looking Glass, 186
+
+Devil's Punch Bowl, 189
+
+Dinas Bran, 94
+
+Dinas Mawddwy, 7
+
+Dingle, 179
+
+Dismore (Mr.), 58
+
+Dolgelly, 7
+
+Donegal, 134
+
+Down Co., 169
+
+Dublin Co., 171
+
+Dunaff Head, 136
+
+Dunfanaghy, 139
+
+Dungloe, 144
+
+Dunloe (Gap of), 182
+
+
+Eagle's Cliff, 189
+
+Eagle's Nest, 147
+
+Eglwyseg, 94
+
+Elicydu, 25
+
+Elider, 25
+
+Empson (Mr.), 2
+
+Errigal, 140
+
+Esgair Felen, 42
+
+Evans (Mr. Alf.), 82
+
+
+Fair Head, 131
+
+Fanet, 137
+
+Ffestiniog, 9
+
+Foelgoch, 26
+
+Frodsham (Mr. G. H.), 90
+
+
+Gallt y Wenallt, 76
+
+Galtee Mountains, 191
+
+Galway, 164
+
+Gap of Doonmore, 138
+
+Gap of Dunloe, 182
+
+Garnedd Goch, 92
+
+Giant's Causeway, 134
+
+Glaslyn, 69
+
+Glen Car, 183
+
+Glen Gesh, 154
+
+Glen Head, 145
+
+Glenariff, 133
+
+Glenbeagh, 142
+
+Glengad Head, 135
+
+Glengariff, 190
+
+Glyder Fach, 31
+
+Glyder Fawr, 36
+
+Golf, 156
+
+Gougaun Barra, 191
+
+Grey Man's Path, 131
+
+Guides, 183
+
+Gweedore, 141
+
+
+Hag's Glen, 183, 187
+
+Haseler (Mr. Maxwell), 73
+
+Hill names, 161
+
+Homer (Mr. Philip), 54
+
+Horn Head, 138
+
+Howth, 174
+
+Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit, 9
+
+Hungry Hill, 190
+
+
+Inishowen, 135
+
+Ireland's Eye, 174
+
+
+Jackson (Rev. James), 12
+
+
+Keimaneigh, 191
+
+Kendal (Mr. E. G.), 70
+
+Kerry Co., 179
+
+Killarney, 183
+
+Killary, 165
+
+Kingsley (Charles), 12
+
+King's Mountain, 155
+
+Kinlough, 156
+
+
+Lambay, 171
+
+Leenane Inn, 158, 163
+
+Lisdoonvarna, 167
+
+Livesley (Mr.), 56
+
+Llaithnant, 105
+
+Llanberis, 9
+
+Llangynog, 95
+
+Llechog, 91
+
+Lliwedd, 74
+
+Llyndulyn, 24
+
+Lough Eske, 152
+
+Lough Muskry, 192
+
+Lough Salt, 142
+
+Lough Swilly, 186
+
+Lugnaquilia, 176
+
+
+Maamtrasna, 162
+
+Maamturk, 164
+
+Macgillicuddy's Reeks, 182
+
+Machynlleth, 10
+
+MacSwyne's Gun, 143
+
+Maentwrog Road, 15
+
+Malin Head, 135
+
+Mangerton, 189
+
+Marble Arch, 143
+
+Marzials (Miss), 9
+
+Maum Glen, 144
+
+Mayo Co., 156
+
+Melynllyn, 24
+
+Merionethshire, 95
+
+Mitchell (Mr. J.), 86
+
+Moel Eilio, 91
+
+Moel Hebog, 92
+
+Moel Siabod, 52
+
+Moel Sych, 94
+
+Moel Wyn, 96
+
+Moher Cliffs, 167
+
+Montgomeryshire, 94
+
+Mount Aitchin, 188
+
+Mourne Mountains, 169
+
+Muckanaght, 166
+
+Muckish, 140
+
+Mweelrea, 160
+
+Mynydd Mawr, 93
+
+
+Nantlle, 10
+
+Nephin, 156
+
+Newcastle, 169
+
+
+Ogwen Cottage, 5
+
+One Man's Pass, 149
+
+Orme's Head, 94
+
+Owen (Harry), 11
+
+
+Paget (Mr.), 2
+
+Pantylluchfa, 69
+
+Parson's Nose, 58
+
+Payne (Mr.), 1
+
+Pen Helig, 25
+
+Penmaenmawr, 16
+
+Penygroes, 11
+
+Penygwrhyd, 11
+
+Penyroleuwen, 18
+
+'Phouca' (The), 140
+
+Pleaskin Head, 134
+
+Poisoned Glen, 141
+
+Portsalon, 137
+
+Powerscourt, 175
+
+Prisons of Lugnaquilia, 176
+
+Purple Mountain, 189
+
+
+Rhayader, 13
+
+Rhinog Fawr, 97
+
+Rosapenna, 138
+
+Rostrevor, 169
+
+
+St. Kevin's Bed, 177
+
+Slanting Gully, 85
+
+Slieve Donard, 171
+
+Slieve Glas, 182
+
+Slieve League, 145
+
+Smith (Death of), 108
+
+Snowdon, 54
+
+Snowdon Ranger, 13
+
+Southey benighted, 54
+
+Spellick, 171
+
+Stacks, 15
+
+Starr (Rev. H. W.), 89
+
+Stilloge Lakes, 193
+
+Sturrell, 144
+
+
+Tanybwlch, 14
+
+Tonelagee, 176
+
+Tormore, 139, 144
+
+Tory Island, 139
+
+Trigfylchau, 36, 44
+
+Tryfaen, 44
+
+Twelve Bens or Pins, 166
+
+Twll Du, 28
+
+
+Waterford Co., 192
+
+Wicklow Co., 175
+
+Williams (W.), 72
+
+Wills (Mr.), 2
+
+Wilton (Mr. F. R.), 67
+
+
+Y Garn, 28
+
+Y Wyddfa, 54
+
+Yr Elen, 25
+
+
+  PRINTED BY
+  SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
+  LONDON
+
+
+    Transcriber's note:
+
+    _Underscores_ have been used to indicate _italic_ fonts.
+    =Equals signs= have been used to indicate =bold= fonts.
+    The alternate spellings Carnarvonshire and Caernarvonshire both appear
+    in the original. I have left them as written (both are accepted
+    spellings).
+    Inconsistent hyphenation and dashes (e.g. number-ft vs. number ft) are left as written.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Climbing in The British Isles, Vol. II, by 
+W. P. Haskett Smith and H. C. Hart
+
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Climbing in The British Isles, Vol. II, by 
+W. P. Haskett Smith and H. C. Hart
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Climbing in The British Isles, Vol. II
+       Wales and Ireland
+
+Author: W. P. Haskett Smith
+        H. C. Hart
+
+Illustrator: Ellis Carr
+
+Release Date: September 21, 2011 [EBook #37502]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CLIMBING IN BRITISH ISLES, VOL II ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Anna Hall and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h1>CLIMBING IN THE BRITISH ISLES</h1>
+<h2><i>WALES <small>AND</small> IRELAND</i></h2>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg ii]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 95%;" />
+
+<p class="big center">CLIMBING
+IN THE BRITISH ISLES</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>3 vols. 16mo. Sold separately.</i></p>
+
+
+<blockquote><p>I.&mdash;ENGLAND. By <span class="smcap">W. P. Haskett Smith</span>,
+M.A., Member of the Alpine Club. With 23 Illustrations
+by Ellis Carr, Member of the Alpine Club,
+and 5 Plans. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p>
+
+
+<p>II.&mdash;WALES AND IRELAND. By <span class="smcap">W. P.
+Haskett Smith</span>, M.A., and <span class="smcap">H. C. Hart</span>, Members of
+the Alpine Club. With 31 Illustrations by <span class="smcap">Ellis
+Carr</span> and others, and 9 Plans. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p>
+
+
+<p>III.&mdash;SCOTLAND.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="right">
+[<i>In preparation.</i>]
+</p>
+
+<p>London and New York: LONGMANS, GREEN, &amp; CO.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 95%;" />
+
+
+<p class="center big">CLIMBING<br />
+<span class="small">IN<br /></span>
+THE BRITISH ISLES</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>II&mdash;WALES <small>AND</small> IRELAND</i></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>WALES</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">By</span> W. P. HASKETT SMITH, M.A.<br />
+<span class="small">Member of the Alpine Club</span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>IRELAND</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="smcap">By</span> H. C. HART<br />
+<span class="small">Member of the Alpine Club; Fellow of the Linnean Society
+Member of the Royal Irish Academy, etc.</span></p>
+
+<p class="center">WITH THIRTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS BY<br />
+ELLIS CARR<br />
+<span class="small">Member of the Alpine Club
+<i>and others</i><br />
+AND NINE PLANS</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="center">LONDON<br />
+LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.<br />
+AND NEW YORK<br />
+1895</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>All rights reserved</i></p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3>PREFACE</h3>
+
+
+<p>The present volume is intended to deal with all parts of the
+British Isles except England, which was the subject of Vol. I.,
+and Scotland, to which Vol. III. will be devoted. Nothing
+is here said about the <i>Isle of Man</i> or the Channel Islands,
+because it would, no doubt, be considered absurd to advise
+anyone to visit those islands whose main object was the
+acquisition of mountaineering skill. Pretty as the former
+island is, its hills are nothing more than hills, except where
+they are also railways or tea gardens; and even on its cliffs,
+which are especially fine at the southern end, comparatively
+little climbing will be found.</p>
+
+<p>In the <i>Channel Islands</i>, on the other hand, the granite
+cliffs, though very low, being usually only 100-200 ft. high,
+abound in instructive scrambles. Many such will be found
+in Guernsey, Jersey, and especially in Sark, but the granite
+is not everywhere of equally good quality.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Scilly Isles</i>, again, are by no means to be despised
+by climbers, especially by such of them as can enjoy
+knocking about in a small boat, which is almost the only
+means of getting from climb to climb. The granite forms
+are somewhat wilder and more fantastic than those in the
+Channel Islands. Peninnis Head is only one of many<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span>
+capital scrambling grounds. An article by Dr. Treves<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 1.">&nbsp;[1]&nbsp;</a> gives
+a very good idea of the kind of thing which may be expected.
+If anyone should think of proceeding, under the guidance of
+this volume, to regions with which he is so far unacquainted,
+he will naturally ask how the climbing here described compares
+with the climbing in other parts of Britain or of
+Europe. How does Wales, for instance, stand with regard
+to Cumberland or the Alps? On this point some good remarks
+will be found in the <i>Penny Magazine</i>, vii., p. 161
+(1838), where the writer assigns to the more northern hills
+a slight superiority over Wales. An impression prevails
+among those who know both that the weather of N. Wales
+is, if possible, more changeable than that of the Lakes.
+Climbers will notice this chiefly in winter, when the snow on the
+Welsh mountains less frequently settles into sound condition.
+Perhaps sudden changes of temperature are partly to blame
+for the greater frequency in Wales of deaths from exposure.
+Winter climbing is very enjoyable, but proper precautions
+must be taken against the cold. A writer on Wales some
+300 years ago observes that 'the cold Aire of these Mountainous
+Regions by an Antiperistasis keeps in and strengthens
+the internall heat;' but a good woollen sweater, a warm cap
+to turn down over the ears and neck, and three pairs of gloves,
+two pairs on and one pair dry in the pocket, will be found
+quite as effectual. Dangers, however, cease not with the
+setting sun, and many who have defied frost-bite during the
+day fall an easy prey to rheumatism in bed at night. A
+groundless terror of the Welsh language keeps many away
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span>from Wales. The names are certainly of formidable appearance,
+and Barham's lines are hardly an exaggeration.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">For the vowels made use of in Welsh are so few<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That the A and the E and the I, O, and U<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Have really but little or nothing to do.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And the duty, of course, falls the heavier by far<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">On the L and the H, and the N and the R.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The first syllable PEN is pronounceable; then<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Come two LL and two HH, two FF, and an N.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But appalling words like 'Slwch Twmp' or 'Cwmtrwsgl'
+lose half their venom when it is explained that W is only a
+way of writing OO. In spite of its apparent complication
+the language is so simple and systematic that anyone can
+learn enough in a quarter of an hour to enable him to pronounce
+with ease and moderate accuracy any place-name
+with which he is likely to meet. Irish is less regular, but
+wonderfully rich in expressions for slightly varying physical
+features, while the Manx names are more interesting than
+the hills by which they are borne.</p>
+
+<p>In comparison with the Alps what was said in Vol. I. of
+Cumberland applies equally well to Wales, and nearly as
+well to Kerry or Donegal. The most striking peculiarity of
+Irish mountains is, next to the size of the bogs, the large
+amount of car-driving which has to be done before and after
+the day's work. But this is an intrusion on the province of
+another. Old Thomas Fuller, on sitting down to write a
+detailed account of Wales, which he had never seen, genially
+remarked that 'it matters not how meanly skilled a writer is
+so long as he hath knowing and communicative friends.'
+That precisely describes the Editor's position, especially with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span>
+regard to Ireland, to the treatment of which no other man
+could have brought knowledge at once so wide and so
+accurate as Mr. Hart. Unfortunately he, like his own
+'carrabuncle,' was somewhat elusive. After months of
+mysterious silence he would glide into sight, great with
+solid mountaineering matter, gleaming with pearls of botany
+and gems of geologic lore; but, alas! in another moment the
+waters of bronchitis, or influenza, or inertia would close over
+the mysterious monster's back, and he would glide away into
+unknown depths where the harpoon of the penny post was
+harmless and telegrams tickled him in vain. Now the
+carrabuncle is caught at last, and readers will be well repaid
+for a few months' delay. They will be astonished that one
+pair of eyes could take in so much, and that one pair of
+legs could cover so much ground.</p>
+
+<p>Among many other 'knowing and communicative friends'
+the Editor would especially dwell on his indebtedness to Mr.
+F. H. Bowring and to Mr. O. G. Jones. The latter has
+contributed the whole of the section dealing with the Arans
+and Cader Idris, and his minute knowledge of that region
+will be evident from the fact that the quantity which our
+space has allowed us to print represents less than half of the
+matter originally supplied by him.</p>
+
+<p>For most of the sketches we are again indebted to Mr.
+Ellis Carr, for a striking view of Tryfaen to Mr. Colin Phillips,
+and for the remainder (taken under most cruel conditions
+of weather) to Mr. Harold Hughes of Bangor.</p>
+
+<p class="right">W. P. H. S.</p>
+
+<p><i>August 1895.</i></p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CLIMBING<br />
+<span class="small">IN<br /></span>
+THE BRITISH ISLES</h2>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>WALES</h3>
+
+<h4>WHERE TO STAY</h4>
+
+
+<p><b>Aber.</b>&mdash;This station on the Chester and Holyhead Railway
+is in no sense a centre for mountaineers, though a good
+deal of work <i>may</i> be done from it. We ourselves 'in our hot
+youth, when George the Third was King,' and a dozen miles
+extra tramping at the end of a day was a mere trifle, managed
+to do many of the mountains of North Wales from it.</p>
+
+<p>Its only attraction is a pretty valley, at the head of which
+are some not very striking waterfalls. The surrounding
+rocks have, however, been the scene of a surprising number
+of accidents. Most of these have been caused by slipping on
+the path which crosses the steep slope of the eastern bank
+and leads to the head of the main fall. Such was the fatal
+accident on April 13, 1873, to Mr. F. T. Payne, a barrister.
+His sight was very defective, and this fact goes far towards
+accounting for the accident.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 2.">&nbsp;[2]&nbsp;</a></p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p>
+<p>In 1876 a very similar case occurred. A young man
+called Empson, who was staying at Llanfairfechan, was
+killed in descending, apparently at the very same spot.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 3.">&nbsp;[3]&nbsp;</a></p>
+
+<p>In April 1885 Mr. Maitland Wills, described as an
+expert mountaineer, while walking with two friends from
+Capel Curig to Aber, fell near the same spot, and was
+instantly killed.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 4.">&nbsp;[4]&nbsp;</a></p>
+
+<p>In August of the same year Mr. Paget, the Hammersmith
+Police Magistrate, fell and was severely hurt.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 5.">&nbsp;[5]&nbsp;</a> And
+these by no means exhaust the list of casualties, which is,
+perhaps, only second in length to that of Snowdon itself. It
+may be mentioned that there is a climb or two on the west
+and steeper side of the falls.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Bala</b>, reached from London in about 7 hours by the
+Great Western line, is a very pleasant place to stop at on
+entering Wales, being situated at the foot of the finest
+natural sheet of water in the Principality, and having railway
+facilities in three directions. By the aid of the rail
+Cader Idris, the Arans, and the Rhinogs can be easily got
+at. For the first mountains Dolgelly, for the second Drwsynant
+and Llanuwchllyn, for the third Maentwrog would be
+the best stations. This is also the best place for Arenig
+Fawr, which can be done on foot all the way, or better by
+taking the train to Arenig station and returning by rail
+from Llanuwchllyn after crossing the hill. Lord Lyttelton
+made Bala famous last century. What he said of it will
+sufficiently appear from some lines (long since erased by the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>indignant ladies of Bala) which were once to be seen in a
+visitors' book here:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Lord Lyttelton of old gave out<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To all the world that Bala trout<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Have all the sweetness that pervades<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The laughing lips of Bala's maids.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Which did his Lordship mean to flout?<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For fact it is that Bala trout<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">(Ask any fisherman you meet)<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Are bad to catch, but worse to eat.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">O Maid of Bala, ere we part,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">'Tis mine to bind thy wounded heart;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And in thy favour testify&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Though seldom sweet, thou'rt never shy!<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>There is, however, one objection to this epigram, for the poet
+talks of trout and the peer of Gwyniad; let us, therefore, hope
+that in regard to the fair as well as the fish the poet's harsh
+judgment was equally unsound.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Barmouth</b>, a capital place from which to visit the
+Rhinog range and Cader Idris; and the Cambrian Railway
+extends the range of operations in three directions, so that
+even Snowdon is within the possibilities of a single day's
+excursion. There is excellent climbing practice to be had,
+not only just outside the town, but actually within it.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Beddgelert</b> (i.e. 'Gelert's Grave') is one of the gates of
+Snowdonia, and it is the gate by which the judicious will
+enter. It is, moreover, perhaps the prettiest mountain resort
+in Wales. Penygwrhyd is more central for climbers pure&mdash;and
+simple&mdash;but has no pretensions to beauty of situation;
+Llanberis has its railway facilities, its quarries, and its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>
+trippers; Bettws y Coed is delicious, but it is right away
+from the mountains. For combination of the beauties of
+mountain, water, and wooded plain Dolgelly is the only
+rival of Beddgelert. Snowdon on the north, Moel Hebog on
+the west, and Cynicht and Moelwyn on the east are enough
+to make the fortune of any place as a mountaineer's abode,
+even if there were no Pass of Aberglaslyn close by.</p>
+
+<p>The nearest station is Rhyd-ddu, on the Snowdon Ranger
+line, nearly 4 miles off, and it is uphill nearly all the way.
+To Portmadoc, on the other hand, the distance is greater,
+6 or 7 miles, but the road is fairly level, and nearly every
+step of it is beautiful, both in winter and in summer.
+Indeed, there was a time when winter in this romantic
+village was more enjoyable than summer, for in warm
+weather the eye was much obstructed by the hand which
+held the nose; but that was many years ago. The ascent
+of Snowdon from this side used to be the most frequented,
+but in the race for popularity it has long been distanced by
+Llanberis. It is a good path, and easily found. The start
+is made along the Carnarvon road for some three miles to
+the Pitt's Head; then up the hill to the right to Llechog,
+and across the once dreaded Bwlch y Maen. A more direct
+and very fine route leads straight up and over the ridge of
+Yr Aran, joining the regular path just short of Bwlch-y-Maen.
+By going up the Capel Curig some 3&frac12; miles, and
+taking the turn to the left more than half a mile beyond
+Llyn y Ddinas, Sir Edward Watkin's path up Cwmyllan may
+be utilised; but at the cost of 3&frac12; miles' extra walking along
+the same road the far finer ascent by Cwm Dyli may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>
+made. This is the same as that from Penygwrhyd, but with
+the advantage of including the lowest portion and waterfalls
+of Cwm Dyli, which are extremely fine. The classical climbs
+of Snowdonia are within reach for good walkers, but others
+will find abundance of opportunities for practice within a
+mile or two, and for the Garnedd Goch range (which has in
+it some choice bits) there is no better base. The road to Portmadoc
+on the south and to Penygwrhyd on the north are not
+only among the most beautiful in the kingdom, but present
+the most alluring of problems to the rock climber within a
+stone's throw. There is a corner of the road about 6 miles from
+Beddgelert where Crib Goch shows over a foot-hill of Lliwedd,
+and a rocky ridge runs down from the east almost on to the
+road. This ridge, though broken, bears some very choice
+bits, including a certain wide, short chimney facing south.</p>
+
+<p>A separate guide-book to this place (by J. H. Bransby)
+appeared in 1840, and there have been several since, among
+the best being one published at the modest price of one
+penny by Abel Heywood.</p>
+
+<p>The place plays a great part in Charles Kingsley's <i>Two
+Years Ago</i>, and it was at the 'Goat' Inn here that George
+Borrow was so furious at the want of deference with which
+his utterances were received by the company.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Benglog</b>, at the foot of Llyn Ogwen and the head of
+Nant Ffrancon, is only second to Penygwrhyd as a
+climbing centre, but, unfortunately, the accommodation is
+so very scanty&mdash;Ogwen Cottage, the only house, having no
+more than two bedrooms&mdash;that the place is little used.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>
+For Tryfaen, the Glyders, the Carnedds, Twll Du, and the
+Elider range it is preferable to any other place, and
+beautiful problems are to be found by the climber literally
+within a stone's throw of the door. It is about 5 miles
+from Bethesda station on the north and the same distance
+from Capel Curig on the east, all three places being on the
+great Holyhead Road. Penygwrhyd is 2 hours away,
+whether by road (9 miles) or over the hill. In the latter
+case the shortest route is by the col which separates Tryfaen
+and Glyder Fach, and then over the shoulder east of the
+latter mountain. To Llanberis the way lies by Twll Du and
+Cwm Patric, and though much longer than the last could
+probably be done in nearly as short a time.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Bethesda</b> is 5 miles from Benglog, and that much
+further from all the best climbing. See, however, p. 18.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Capel Curig</b> (600 ft. above sea level) is 5&frac12; miles from
+Bettws y Coed railway station, 4 miles from Penygwrhyd,
+and 5 from Benglog, is a very good centre for strong
+walkers. Most of the best climbs are within reach, but none
+very near. For Snowdon Penygwrhyd is much nearer;
+Benglog is better for the Glyders and the Carnedds; so that,
+while being pretty good for nearly all, Capel Curig is not the
+best starting-place for any. It has no exclusive rights,
+except over Moel Siabod on the south and the wild unfrequented
+district in the opposite direction, which lies at the
+back of Carnedd Llewelyn.</p>
+
+<p>Hutton, who visited it at the beginning of the century,
+calls it 'an excellent inn in a desert.'</p>
+
+<p>The Alpine Club had a meeting here in 1879.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Dinas Mawddwy</b>, reached by rail from Machynlleth,
+is a pleasant, secluded spot amid mountainous surroundings,
+but not conveniently situated for climbing anything but
+Aran Mawddwy. All the advantages of the place may be
+equally well enjoyed from Machynlleth. Old Pennant
+records how in his rash youth he used to toboggan down
+the peat paths of Craig y Dinas, 'which,' says he, 'I now
+survey with horror.' A Welsh bard, whose poems must have
+been neglected in the place, declares that it was notable for
+three things&mdash;blue earth, constant rain, and hateful people.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Dolgelly</b>, which ends in <i>-eu</i> in many old books, in
+<i>-ey</i> on the one side and in <i>-y</i> on the other of the modern
+railway station, and is commonly pronounced by the
+residents as if it ended in <i>-a</i>, is said to mean 'hazel dale,'
+a name which the place can hardly be said to live up to.
+There is, however, no doubt that it is one of the prettiest
+places in Wales and one of the pleasantest to stop at. In
+the first place the communications are very good, for by
+the Great Western Railway there is a capital service to
+Shrewsbury and London, while on the seaward side the
+Cambrian Railway puts Barmouth and Portmadoc on the
+one side, and Machynlleth and Aberystwith on the other,
+within easy reach. There is good scenery on all sides of it,
+while for Cader Idris, the Aran Mountains, and the Rhinog
+range there is no better centre. Many people have an
+objection to going up and down a mountain by the same
+route, and have an equal horror of the long grind round
+the foot of it, which is the result of going down a different<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>
+side of the mountain if you want to return to your starting-point.
+At Dolgelly you enjoy the advantage of being able to
+take a train to the far side of your mountain, so as to come
+back over the top and straight on down to your sleeping-place.
+For instance, a very fine way of doing Aran Benllyn
+and Aran Mawddwy is to go by the Great Western to
+Llanuwchllyn and then come back along the ridge of both
+mountains. In the same way one can begin a day on the
+Rhinogs by rail, walking from Llanbedr or Harlech to
+Cwm Bychan, and so over the Rhinogs and Llethr, and
+down to Dolgelly again. Even Cader Idris is rendered
+more enjoyable if the train be taken to Towyn and Abergynolwyn,
+whence the walk by Talyllyn and up to the
+summit by way of Llyn y Cae is in turn pretty and impressive.
+As a rule it is far better to go out by train and come
+back on foot than to reverse the process, and for two reasons&mdash;first,
+by taking the train at once you make sure of your
+ride, and have the remainder of the day freed from
+anxiety and the fear of just missing the last train a dozen
+miles from home, with less than an hour of daylight remaining;
+secondly, if you don't miss the train it is because you
+have come along at racing pace. You are in consequence
+very hot, and have to stand about in a draughty station
+till the train (which is twenty minutes late) arrives and
+then follows half an hour's journey with wet feet, for wet
+feet and walking on Welsh hills are very close friends
+indeed.</p>
+
+<p>There used to be a saying about Dolgelly that the town
+walls there are six miles high. Of course this refers mainly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>
+to the long mural precipice which forms the north point of
+Cader Idris. Abundant climbing is to be found on this
+'wall,' which, with a small part of Aran Mawddwy and a few
+short, steep bits along the course of the river Mawddach,
+constitutes the best rock-work in the immediate vicinity of
+Dolgelly.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Ffestiniog</b>, a very pleasant place to stay at, with good
+communications by rail with Bala, Bettws y Coed, and Portmadoc.
+There are climbs near&mdash;e.g. on the Manods and on
+Moelwyn&mdash;but on a small scale, the good ones being mostly
+destroyed by the colossal slate quarries.</p>
+
+<p><i>Blaenau Ffestiniog</i> is the more central and less beautiful;
+the old village (3 miles away) is far pleasanter. The
+Cynfael Falls, about a mile off, include the well-known
+'Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit,' and are very pretty, but have been
+almost as fatal as those at Aber. Readers will probably
+remember the death of Miss Marzials at this spot.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 6.">&nbsp;[6]&nbsp;</a></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Llanberis</b> (i.e. 'Church of Peris'), being a station on a
+railway which has a good service from England, is the most
+accessible of all the mountain resorts in Wales. As a consequence
+of these facilities the place is often intolerably
+overrun, especially during the late summer and autumn.
+The true lover of the mountains flees the spot, for the day-tripper
+is a burden and desire fails. Whether the railway
+will have the power to make things worse in this respect
+we cannot yet decide, but it seems unlikely. It is only of
+late years that Llanberis has possessed the most popular
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>road up Snowdon. The opening of the road over the pass
+in 1818 did a great deal, and the visit of H.M. the Queen
+in 1832 did still more to make the place popular, and the
+pony path up Snowdon and the railway settled the matter.
+The other mountains which may readily be ascended from
+here are those in the Elider and Glyder ranges, while climbing
+is nearly confined to the rocks on both sides of the pass,
+which includes some work of great excellence.</p>
+
+<p>As early as 1845 a separate guide-book for this place was
+published by J. H. Bransby. Now there are several.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Machynlleth</b> (pronounced roughly like 'Mahuntly,'
+and by the rustics very like 'Monkley') lies midway between
+Plynlimon and Cader Idris, and within reach of both, yet can
+hardly claim to be a centre for mountaineers. Of submontane
+walks and scenery it commands a surprising variety,
+having railway facilities in half a dozen directions. This
+makes it a capital place for a long stay, varied by an occasional
+night or two at places like Rhayader, Dolgelly,
+Barmouth, or Beddgelert. The best way of doing Aran
+Mawddwy is by way of Dinas Mawddwy, and the ascent of
+Cader Idris from Corris railway station, returning by way of
+Abergynolwyn, makes a most enjoyable day.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Nantlle</b>, once a very pretty place, is now little more
+than an intricate system of slate quarries. A low pass
+(Drws y Coed) separates it from Snowdon, of which Wilson
+took a celebrated picture from this side. There are some
+nice little climbs on both sides of the pass and on Garnedd
+Goch, which runs away to the southward of it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Nantlle has a station, but Penygroes, the junction, is so
+near as to make it a more convenient stopping-place. Anyone
+staying at Criccieth can make a good day by taking the
+train to Nantlle, and returning along Garnedd Goch or
+over Moel Hebog. Snowdon too is within easy reach.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Penygwrhyd.</b>&mdash;In Beddgelert Church is a monument
+'to the memory of Harry Owen, for forty-four years landlord
+of the inn at Penygwrhyd and guide to Snowdon: born
+April 2, 1822; died May 5, 1891.'</p>
+
+<p>Harry Owen it was who did for Penygwrhyd what
+Will Ritson did for Wastdale Head and Seiler for Zermatt.
+Intellectually, perhaps, he was not the equal of either of the
+other two, but there was a straightforward cordiality about
+him which made all lovers of the mountains feel at once that
+in his house they had a home to which they could return
+again and again with ever renewed pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>The house stands at the foot of the east side of the
+Llanberis Pass, at the junction of the roads from Capel
+Curig (4 miles), Beddgelert (8 miles), and Llanberis (6
+miles), and at the central point of three mountain groups&mdash;Snowdon
+(the finest and boldest side), the Glyders, and
+Moel Siabod. The last is of small account, but the other
+two groups contain some&mdash;one may almost say most&mdash;of the
+best climbing and finest scenery in Wales. Most people
+come to the inn by way of Bettws y Coed and many from
+Llanberis; but by far the finest approach is that from
+Beddgelert, and by this way the first approach at any rate
+ought always to be made. Ascents and climbs innumerable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>
+may be made from here, and many valuable notes on
+climbs may be found here in a certain volume secured from
+the profane mob by lock and key.</p>
+
+<p>In the same volume also several sets of verses occur
+much above the ordinary tourist level, among them being
+a very smart study of the climbing class in the style of
+Walt Whitman, and a few telling alphabetic distichs of
+which <i>habitu&eacute;s</i> will recognise the force.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">K&mdash;for the Kitchen, where garments are dried;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">L&mdash;for the Language we use when they're fried;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">O&mdash;for the Owens, whom long may we see;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">P&mdash;for the Pudding we call P.Y.G.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">S is for Snowdon, that's seen from afar;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">T&mdash;for the Tarts on the shelf in the bar.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The visitors' book proper also contains entries of some
+interest, including some lines (given at length in the
+<i>Gossiping Guide</i>) written by Charles Kingsley, Tom
+Taylor, and Tom Hughes, chiefly remarkable for their
+breezy good temper. The lines are printed, together with
+a mass of very poor stuff taken from the same source, in a
+little book called <i>Offerings at the Foot of Snowdon</i>.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 7.">&nbsp;[7]&nbsp;</a>
+The inn and the Owens play an important part in Kingsley's
+novel <i>Two Years Ago</i>. Forty or fifty years ago there was
+a constant visitor at this inn who might have claimed the invention
+of the place as a climbing centre. He corresponded
+in profession, and also in age, to the Rev. James Jackson, the
+Cumbrian 'Patriarch.' He had a mania for ridge-walking,
+or, as he termed it, 'following the sky line.' His name I
+could never learn.</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Rhayader</b> (<i>The Waterfall</i>, i.e. of the river Wye, pronounced
+here 'Rhay-' and not 'Rhy-,' as in North Wales)
+is a very convenient centre for much scenery which is of
+great interest to the geologically-minded mountaineer, though
+the hills are of no great height. The Cambrian Railway has
+a station here, and makes an expedition to the Brecon Beacons
+or to the very interesting Black Mountains a very simple
+matter, while on the way a good deal may be seen of two of
+the most beautiful rivers in Britain, the Wye and the Usk.
+Aberedw Rocks and Cwm Elan are quite near, and so is Nant
+Guillt, with its memories of Shelley, beloved of all who love
+the mountains, though perhaps few would have cared to be
+on the same rope with that somewhat erratic genius.
+Where the Wye enters the Vale of Rhayader there are some
+remarkably fine rocks (chiefly in the 'Lower Llandovery'
+formation). Mackintosh calls it 'a deep basin surrounded
+by very precipitous slopes, which on the side most distant
+from the river channel present one of the finest and loftiest
+rocky cliffs in the principality.' The Birmingham Water
+Works have influenced the town for good in one respect only:
+they have introduced a barber, who at the end of each
+week mows navvies' cheeks by the acre.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Snowdon Ranger</b>, a small inn on the west side of
+Snowdon, readily reached by rail from Carnarvon or coach
+from Beddgelert, or again by an easy and interesting walk
+over the low pass of Drws y Coed from Penygroes station.
+It commands one of the simplest ascents of Snowdon, but by
+no means the most interesting. Good climbing may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>
+found near it on Clogwyndurarddu, on Mynydd Mawr, on
+both sides of Drws y Coed, and on the Garnedd Goch range,
+but none are on a very large scale.</p>
+
+<p>In the history of Welsh mountaineering it holds a place,
+having long been the most usual starting-point for the
+ascent of Snowdon, and all the early travellers came here.
+Cradock (1770) calls it 'a small thatched hut at the foot of
+the mountain (Snowdon), near a lake which they call Llyn
+Cychwhechlyn (i.e. Quellyn), which I leave you to pronounce
+as well as you are able. We procured a number
+of blooming country girls to divert us with their music and
+dancing.' Even these delights, however, could not keep
+travellers from drifting away towards Beddgelert&mdash;a change
+which, as readers of <i>Wild Wales</i> will remember, had
+already become marked when Borrow had his interview
+with the Snowdon guide forty years ago. The early accounts
+often speak of this place as Bronyfedw (a name which still
+survives), and for many years there used to be a kind of
+'personally conducted' (Hamer's) ascent of Snowdon from
+Carnarvon once a week by this route.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Tanybwlch.</b>&mdash;Wyndham, Pennant, and, indeed, nearly
+all the early explorers of Wales stayed at this very pleasant
+place. At that time the highroad from Dolgelly to Beddgelert
+and Carnarvon passed the door; but the railway
+having now superseded the post chaise has left the place
+somewhat out in the cold. It has, however, some assistance
+from the 'toy' line to Ffestiniog, and is a pretty little place,
+though Moelwyn, Cynicht, Moel Siabod, and the Rhinogs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>
+are all the mountains which it can command. For those
+coming from England the best station is Maentwrog Road,
+on the G.W.R. line from Bala.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>WHERE TO CLIMB</h3>
+
+
+<p><b>Anglesey.</b>&mdash;The extreme flatness of the island perhaps
+gives an increased effect to its fine rock scenery about the
+Stacks, which will be respected by climbers as perhaps the
+earliest school of their art in Wales. An old description of
+the egg-takers here contains some interesting sentences which
+are not wholly devoid of point even for climbers of the present
+day. 'The gains bear no tolerable proportion to the danger
+incurred. The adventurers, having furnished themselves
+with every necessary implement, enter on the terrific undertaking.
+Two&mdash;for this is a trade in which co-partnership
+is absolutely necessary&mdash;take a station. He whose superior
+agility renders it eligible prepares for the rupestrian expedition.
+Dangerous employ! a slip of the foot or the
+hand would in an instant be fatal to both. To a stranger
+this occupation appears more dangerous than it really is.
+In persons habituated to bodily difficulty the nervous
+system becomes gradually braced, and the solids attain that
+state of rigidity which banishes irritability, while the mind,
+accustomed to danger, loses that timidity which frequently
+leads to the dreaded disaster. Fact demonstrates to what
+an extent difficulty and danger may be made subordinate to
+art and perseverance.'</p>
+
+<p>This is the voice of truth, but the solids nowadays (owing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>
+possibly to the fluids or to the want of them) do not banish
+their irritability completely.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Carnarvonshire.</b>&mdash;Both in the quality and the quantity
+of its climbs this county leaves the rest of Wales far
+behind. Its superiority is even more marked than that of
+Cumberland over the rest of England.</p>
+
+<p>Snowdon, the Glyders, and the Carnedds would alone be
+sufficient to establish this; but there are numbers of less
+important elevations which would have a great reputation
+in almost any other county.</p>
+
+<p>The chief mountain centres are Penygwrhyd, Beddgelert,
+Llanberis, and Snowdon Ranger, all four lying at the foot of
+Snowdon, Benglog (Ogwen Cottage), Capel Curig, and
+Ffestiniog.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of the county must be greatly changed
+since Leland's time. He tells us that 'the best wood of
+Caernarvonshire is by Glinne Kledder and by Glin Llughy
+and by Capel Kiryk and at Llanperis. More upwarde be
+Eryri Hilles, and in them ys very little corne. If there were
+the Deere would destroy it.' The destruction of this wood
+has greatly injured the beauty of the valleys round Snowdon,
+Nant Gwynant being the only one where it remains in any
+quantity.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Penmaenmawr</b> (1,553 ft.) is far from being a difficult
+mountain. The ancient Britons had a fort on the top of it,
+and it was ascended 'by a person of quality in the reign of
+Charles II.,' but it is scarcely a paradox to say that it was
+the greatest obstacle to knowledge of Welsh mountains<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>
+during last century. The highroad from Chester crossed it,
+and our ancestors used to go rolling off it down into the sea,
+and did not like it. Therefore a journey to Wales was a
+great and a rare feat. All the early travellers dilate upon
+its terrors. In 1795 Mr. T. Hucks, B.A., gives a ludicrous
+account of his ascent, which was actually made without
+a guide. 'We rashly took the resolution to venture up
+this stupendous mountain without a guide, and therefore
+unknowingly fixed upon the most difficult part to ascend,
+and consequently were continually impeded by a vast
+number of unexpected obstructions. At length we surmounted
+every danger and difficulty, and safely arrived at
+the top.... In the midst of my melancholy cogitations I
+fully expected that the genius of the mountain would have
+appeared to me in some formidable shape and have reproached
+me with rashly presuming to disturb the sacred
+silence of his solitary reign.' Penmaenmawr was not a
+frequented tourist resort in those days. The genius would
+not expect much sacred silence now. The writer knows of
+no continuous climb on the mountain, though he has often
+had a scramble on it.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>The Carnedd Group.</b>&mdash;<b>Carnedd Dafydd</b> (3,426
+ft.), said to have been named after David the brother of
+Prince Llewelyn, rises on the north of Llyn Ogwen and on
+the west of the river which flows from it. The view, looking
+southward across Llyn Ogwen at the bold northern front
+of the Glyder group, is one of the grandest in Wales.
+That to the north-west is to a great extent cut off by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>
+Carnedd Llewelyn. The usual starting-points are Bethesda,
+Ogwen Cottage, and Capel Curig, though strong walkers
+occasionally attack the mountain from the Conway valley
+on the west and from Aber on the sea coast.</p>
+
+<p>From Bethesda the most direct way to the summit is to
+steer south-east and straight at the mountain, which is full
+in view. The distance is 3&frac12; miles, and an active traveller,
+if by any accident he extricates himself speedily from
+Bethesda, may reach the summit in two hours. On the
+other hand he is quite as likely to find himself, at the end
+of the two hours, still wandering sadly up and down the
+by-lanes of that maze-like village. The natives are polite,
+and would willingly give any information; but they cannot
+speak English, and they do not possess the information.</p>
+
+<p>There is only one street which leads anywhere in particular,
+only one which can be known at sight and followed
+fearlessly when known. It is the Holyhead road, and to
+get from one house in Bethesda to another it is said that
+even the inhabitants find it safest to make for the Holyhead
+road at once, and thus secure an intelligible base of
+operations.</p>
+
+<p>The route up Carnedd Dafydd by way of Penyroleuwen
+begins with over two miles of this road, and is, consequently,
+a very sound opening. It is only necessary to
+turn off at Tynymaes, on the left hand, and strike up the
+hill and along the ridge to Braichddu, overlooking the tarn
+of Ffynnon y Lloer. A sharp turn is now made to the left
+along the shoulder, and the great cairn which marks the
+summit is soon reached.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The route from Capel Curig is very easily found. Three
+and a half miles along the Bangor road, after crossing the
+river Llugwy, and just before a chapel, a path strikes off
+on the right-hand side towards a farmhouse. Half a mile
+along this path strike up the hill to the left, travelling at
+first about north by compass, and afterwards, as the hill is
+mounted, inclining more to the west.</p>
+
+<p>A less popular route, but perhaps shorter and more
+easily found in mist, and certainly more effective in point of
+scenery, leaves the highroad about a furlong short of Ogwen
+Lake. Pass a farm and follow a stream for a mile up to
+Ffynnon Lloer; from the head of the pool pick your way
+through some rough ground to the left hand up on to
+Braichddu, when the view of the Glyders bursts upon you
+suddenly with great effect, and, on turning to the right to
+make the final mount to the Carnedd, some good peeps
+may be had down the confused rocks of Craig yr Ysfa.</p>
+
+<p>From Ogwen Cottage the last route is often the best,
+especially when the party contains some weak members, as
+the direct line from the foot of the lake is exceedingly
+steep.</p>
+
+<p>The climbs on this mountain are practically limited to
+Cefnysgolion Duon on the north and Craig yr Ysfa on the
+west, overlooking Nantffrancon.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cefnysgolion Duon</i>&mdash;i.e. 'The Black Ladders,' by
+which name it is commonly known&mdash;might be forced into
+meaning 'The Black Schools,' and this sense greatly bewildered
+a learned native, who observes, 'It is impossible
+to imagine a spot less suited to the operations of the school-master.'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>
+But we can assure him that as a school for
+climbers it leaves little to be desired.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps 'Black Pinnacles' would be a better rendering,
+'ysgol' being often used in that sense, the comparison referring
+to a step-ladder, seen sideways, so as to present the
+shape of an isosceles triangle.</p>
+
+<p>The crags are on the south side of Cwm Llafar, the great
+hollow between the two Carnedds, and there is nothing to
+do but to follow up from Bethesda the stream which flows
+down it. In other words, the true line is almost parallel to
+and about half a mile north of the most direct route to the
+top of Carnedd Dafydd. As advance is made the slope
+between the two routes becomes more and more rocky, and
+when the Ladders themselves come fairly in view the scene
+is a very grand one. There are two conspicuous gullies,
+divided by a stretch of rock which looks almost unclimbable.
+The right-hand or western gully is very steep, and having
+often quite a stream in it, is then decidedly hard, and requires
+considerable care in winter. The other gully slopes away
+sharply to the left, behind a slight projection, and has only
+one pitch in it, but that is really good. Two ways here
+present themselves of climbing along the left-hand wall at
+two different levels, neither of them too easy, or else the
+gully may be deserted altogether, as the left bank forms a
+ridge which offers easy but delightful climbing all over it,
+the hold suddenly becoming magnificent. East of this ridge
+the hold is still good, but the rocks dwindle in size, until, in
+the centre of the col between the Carnedds, they wholly disappear.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This noble crag has never been much frequented by
+climbers, though in 1879 about a dozen members of the
+Alpine Club took it on their way from Bangor to Capel
+Curig.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 8.">&nbsp;[8]&nbsp;</a></p>
+
+<p>Some years before 1869<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 9.">&nbsp;[9]&nbsp;</a> a Birmingham Scripture Reader
+fell over it, and was, of course, killed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Craig yr Ysfa.</i>&mdash;These rugged and in parts highly
+romantic rocks have attracted but few climbers. A hardworking
+group of Bangor enthusiasts have done about all
+the work that has been done here. In November 1894
+J. M. A. T., H. H., H. E., and J. S., quitting the road just
+beyond the eighth milestone from Bangor, reached, in twenty
+minutes, the mouth of a gully, broad except where it narrows
+into a gorge, about half-way up. The climbing on the left
+of the stream is quite easy, on its right less so; but in either
+case the stream has to be abandoned at the first waterfall,
+which is quite impracticable when there is any quantity of
+water falling. One may climb out to the right by a small
+tributary gully, or up the buttress of rock to the right, and
+thus turn the lower fall as well as the upper fall, which is a
+small edition of the Devil's Kitchen. Near the edge of the
+cliff, on the left of the gorge, is a large tabular rock, which
+forms the postern to a narrow passage back into the gully,
+which soon broadens out and leaves a choice of routes; the
+left-hand branch should be taken by preference, as it contains
+a rather difficult pitch, above which the ascent to the
+top of the ridge is simple.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 369px;">
+<a href="images/i_031.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_031_s.jpg" width="369" height="685" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">A GULLY ON CRAIG YR YSFA</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A second gully lies a few hundred yards nearer Ogwen
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>Lake, and contains, besides cascades, two distinct waterfalls,
+of which the first may be surmounted by a small but not
+easy chimney close to it on the left, which is also the side
+for attacking the second difficulty. Here a necessary grass
+ledge above the level of the top of the fall was loosened by
+heavy rain, and stopped the progress of the above party,
+who completed the ascent by climbing out to the left.</p>
+
+<p>The craggy portion is just over one mile long. Towards
+the head of Nant Ffrancon the rocks come lower, and are
+more fantastic, affording a great variety of fine problems,
+though few continuous climbs.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Carnedd Llewelyn</b> (3,484 ft.) is the second highest of
+the Welsh mountains. The last Government Survey gave it a
+slight lift, and at the same time slightly reduced Snowdon,
+causing a rumour to go abroad, alarming to conservative
+minds, that the latter had forfeited its pride of place. This
+would have been a real misfortune, as the old-established
+favourite is beyond all question the finest mountain of the
+two. Only imagine the feelings of a poor peak abandoned
+in its old age, without cheap trippers, without huts, without a
+railway, without Sir Edward Watkin. The blow would have
+been too cruel! The near views from Carnedd Llewelyn
+are not remarkable. They consist mainly of the crags of
+Yr Elen and those of the grand north face of Carnedd
+Dafydd, which, however, practically conceal the Glyders, and
+these again cut off most of Snowdon. But the seaward
+view is very fine, and with regard to the very distant places,
+such as the Cumberland Fells, this mountain has a great<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>
+advantage over Snowdon both 'to see and to be seen.'
+Perhaps the extra 7&frac12; miles make the difference, but it is a
+fact that for once that Snowdon is to be made out from
+Scafell or Great Gable, Carnedd Llewelyn can be seen half
+a dozen times.</p>
+
+<p>For the ascent Bethesda is the nearest. Several ways
+present themselves, and whichever the traveller takes he
+will think that he has taken the boggiest. One way is
+straight up Cwm Llafar to the ridge (Bwlchcyfrwydrum)
+between the two Carnedds, or inclining left one mile short
+of this ridge one soon reaches the ridge connecting our
+mountain with Yr Elen, on the other side of which are some
+fine crags. The ascent by way of Cwm Caseg, the next
+valley to the north, is equally simple and affords a good view
+of these crags from below. In thick weather the long lonely
+walk from Aber is an education in itself to the mountain
+rambler, while from Talycafn station, on the north-west, a
+good road comes to within a mile and a half E.S.E. of the
+summit. The Capel Curig ascent is perhaps the least
+interesting of all; by it the two Carnedds are usually
+combined. Either the ascent or the return should be
+made along the Pen Helig ridge, with regard to the terrors
+of which the guide-books have used language as exaggerated
+as the descriptions of Striding Edge on Helvellyn. In
+winter, however, there is sometimes pretty work here.</p>
+
+<p><i>Climbs.</i>&mdash;A few rocks will be found round the remarkable
+tarns of Llyndulyn and Melynllyn, on the north-east side of
+the mountain, and on the west side of Llyn Eigiau. Better still
+are the rocks near where the Talycafn road ends by a slate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>
+quarry in the rocks of Elicydu (apparently marked as Pen
+Helig by the Ordnance Surveyors); but best of all is the north-east
+side of Yr Elen, where there is a sort of small edition
+of the Black Ladders, with the same sunless aspect, so that
+it often keeps its snow in the same way till quite late in the
+year. In winter, however, the grand cwm which lies due
+east of the Carnedd offers splendid snow scenes and snow
+work.</p>
+
+<p>Some years ago a quarryman was lost in the snow, and
+an upright stone on the north ridge of the mountain marks
+the spot. One of the earliest ascents of the mountain was
+that made in 1630 by Johnson, who evidently had the spirit
+of the mountaineer in him, for he pressed his guide to take
+him to the more precipitous places, alleging the love of rare
+plants. That worthy, however, declined to go, alleging the
+fear of eagles. Mackintosh too had a difficulty here with
+his guide during a winter's day excursion. But his fears
+seem to have been entirely without reasonable cause, and he
+was not so near to being robbed or murdered as he at one
+time fancied. Mr. Paterson's charming book <i>Below the
+Snow Line</i> describes the route from Llanfairfechan in wild
+weather.</p>
+
+<p>In the <i>Philosophical Transactions</i> for 1771 will be
+found noted an ascent which satisfied the climber and his
+water-level that the summit was higher than that of Snowdon.
+Pennant too made the ascent, but came to an opposite
+conclusion on this point.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Elider Group.</b>&mdash;<b>Carnedd y Filiast</b> (i.e. 'Cairn of the
+Female Greyhound') is a feature on the west side of Nant<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>
+Ffrancon, on account of the very remarkable slabs which it
+exhibits on that side. A hundred and twenty-five years ago
+Pennant was told here that 'if the fox in extreme danger
+takes over them in wet weather he falls down and perishes.'
+Certainly they are dangerous enough to a less sure-footed
+animal&mdash;man&mdash;and are best left alone, especially when there
+is any ice about. The nearest place from which to start is
+Bethesda. Another hill of the same name lies to the north
+of Bala.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Foelgoch.</b>&mdash;A spur running north-west from Glyder
+Fawr forms the western bank of Nant Ffrancon, and nearly
+three miles along this ridge is Foelgoch (i.e. 'Red Hill'). It
+has a steep western side towards the head of Cwm Dudodyn,
+and on the other side a very steep rocky recess facing Llyn
+Idwal. Llanberis and Bethesda stations are about equally
+distant. From the former place it is seldom visited, except
+before or after the ascent of Elidyr Fawr.</p>
+
+<p>On August 6, 1886, E. K. writes, 'There is excellent
+scrambling to be had about this mountain, and some really
+difficult work.'</p>
+
+<p>On September 29, 1894, a party of three climbed from
+Nant Ffrancon.</p>
+
+<p>The break in the ridge may be reached either by following
+the ridge itself or from the cwms on either side of it.
+The ascent thence to the summit offers easy but steep
+climbing if the crest of the ridge be scrupulously adhered to.
+Passing over the summit of Y Garn the descent was made
+down the southern ridge of Cwm Clyd, which gives a good
+scramble along its barren ar&ecirc;te.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_036.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_036_s.jpg" width="400" height="535" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">TWLL DU
+
+(looking down through it to Llyn Idwal and Llyn Ogwen)</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Y Garn</b> (3,104 ft.), near the head of Nant Ffrancon, on
+the west side, is little visited, but has some very good rock on
+it. Benglog is much the nearest place. The well-known
+Twll Du may almost be said to be on it, and is practically
+the division between it and Glyder Fawr.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Twll Du</b> (i.e. 'Black Pit'), commonly called the 'Devil's
+Kitchen,' is a remarkable chasm in the line of cliff which
+faces the head of Llyn Idwal on the south-west, being a
+northerly continuation of Glyder Fawr. From Benglog,
+which is much the nearest place, there is little choice of
+route; either side of Llyn Idwal will do, but the west side
+is rather less boggy. Keeping well up you pass the head
+of Idwal until you bring it on with the head of Llyn Ogwen,
+and then about 500 ft. above the former you find yourself at
+the foot of this grand fissure. In dry weather all but the
+highest patch can be easily ascended; after rain it is sometimes
+difficult to enter the place at all. In the summer of
+1893, which was extraordinarily dry, a young fellow claimed
+to have done it single-handed, but it was supposed by some
+that he had mistaken the place. During the intense cold of
+March 1895 an extraordinary <i>tour de force</i> was accomplished
+here by J. M. A. T. and H. H., who cut their way up
+the frozen waterfall, and thus accomplished what was probably
+the first ascent of this formidable chasm. The height
+of the final pitch in its normal condition is about 53 ft.,
+measured from the top of the block down to the surface of
+the pool below. When the climb above described was made,
+no doubt much of this height was filled up by snow and ice,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>yet the remainder was not surmounted in less than 7 hours,
+so that the average rate of progress must have been about
+5 ft. per hour. The total time from Benglog to the top of
+the Kitchen was 8&frac12; hours. The party descended in the dark
+to Llanberis in 3 hours more, having left Ogwen in the
+morning at 10 o'clock. Those who approach from Upper
+Llanberis by way of Cwm Patric or from Penygwrhyd over
+the shoulder west of Glyder Fawr, and, in fact, all who do
+not come by way of Benglog, have to descend the high cliff
+out of which the Kitchen is cut. The only convenient
+passage starts about a furlong to the south of the Kitchen,
+and is very awkward at night or in mist. It begins as a
+wide, straight trough (the largest and most regular of two or
+three), which slopes gently downwards and towards Benglog.
+Presently it takes a more northerly direction and becomes a
+steep, wide slope of scree following the line of cliff to the
+great blocks of fallen stones which mark the mouth of the
+chasm. An active man can return from the lower to the
+upper exit of the chimney in ten minutes, and the descent
+could, of course, be done in even less time. In dry weather
+there is but one slight difficulty before reaching the grand
+crux at the head. It can be climbed by passing into a
+cavern and up to the left, but the easier, and after heavy rain
+the only practicable, way is up the side-wall just to the left
+of the choke-stone on to a broad ledge. A little way above
+this a huge slab, fallen from above, is seen leaning against
+the wall on the right. The passage to the right of it can
+always be made, however strong the stream on the left hand
+may be. The climb to the top of this slab is very neat, and,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>
+besides affording a capital view of the situation, is about all
+the consolation left for the ardent explorer, who will seldom
+succeed in penetrating any further. There are, however,
+two possible lines of advance, both on the left-hand wall, one
+well in under the colossal cap-stone, which hangs 50 ft. overhead,
+and the other outside, nearly opposite the great slab.
+By the latter route 20 ft. or 30 ft. can be climbed with some
+little difficulty, but the traverse to the right would no doubt
+prove a very ticklish operation. Cliffe, in June 1843, penetrated
+to the foot of the final obstacle, and gives a very good
+description of it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_038.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_038_s.jpg" width="400" height="587" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">TWLL DU
+
+(looking up from within)</span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Glyder Group.</b>&mdash;<b>Glyder Fach</b> (3,262 ft.), though
+called 'the lesser,' is far finer than its brother peak, so much
+so that many have found great difficulty in believing that the
+Ordnance Surveyors were right in ascribing 17 ft. of superiority
+to the more lumpy western summit. One might be tempted
+to build a 20-ft. cairn but for the fear of spoiling the great
+glory of Glyder Fach, the chaos of rocks on its summit. The
+present cairn was not in existence ten years ago, and must
+have been built about 1887.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a href="images/i_041.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_041_s.jpg" width="600" height="408" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">SKETCH MAP OF
+
+THE GLYDERS
+
+AND
+
+TRYFAEN</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Ascents.</i>&mdash;From Benglog the most interesting ascent is
+by the Gribin ridge, between Idwal and Bochllwyd. It involves
+a slight descent (about 150 ft.) after reaching the
+ridge, but it is less fatiguing than that by Bwlch Tryfaen and
+the steep rough screes on the right hand beyond it. From
+Penygwrhyd you mount behind the inn, crossing the bog as
+you best can towards a wall which goes straight up the hill.
+When the direction of the wall changes you make a compromise<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>midway between the old and the new, and very soon
+come on to a line of cairns which continues right on to the
+boggy tableland above. Tryfaen top now appears over the hill,
+and as soon as it is fairly lifted you bear to the left and up a
+stony slope to the cairn. From Capel Curig it is a simple
+matter to follow the ridge of Cefn y Capel, but quicker to keep
+along the highroad past the Llynian Mymbyr, and then
+strike up a grass slope to the right. As often as not both
+Glyders are ascended in one expedition; the dip between the
+two is only 300 ft., the distance is under a mile, and stones
+are the only obstacles.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_042.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_042_s.jpg" width="400" height="222" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">SUMMIT OF GLYDER FACH</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Climbs.</i>&mdash;The north face of this mountain is remarkably
+fine and contains all the climbing there is. At the east end
+is the bristly ridge leading down to Bwlch Tryfaen. This is
+stimulating, but not difficult. In the centre of the face there<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>
+is a large gully, ascended in November 1894 by J. M. A. T.,
+H. H., and H. E. They did not find it necessary to use the rope.
+The lofty pitch at the foot of the eastern gully is decidedly
+hard. (J. M. A. T.) In May 1888 W. E. C., A. E., E. B., and
+E. K. found and ascended a gully close under the west side
+of Castell Gwynt, and add that they reached Penygwrhyd by
+way of Cwm Graianog. The last statement is very mysterious.
+About the Castell itself (the rugged pile of rocks between
+the two Glyders, marked by its slender outstanding 'sentinel'),
+and about the summit of the Fach, there are some good
+scrambles on a small scale.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_043.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_043_s.jpg" width="400" height="164" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">CASTELL GWYNT AND GLYDER FAWR</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Directly under the top stone is the minimum thermometer,
+which has been kept there for some years.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 10.">&nbsp;[10]&nbsp;</a> The
+most interesting thing on the whole mountain is undoubtedly
+the pile of stones on the top. According to the bard Taliesin
+it is the burial-place of a mighty warrior, one Ebediw. If a
+kind of Stonehenge was erected there to his memory and
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>afterwards got upset by an earthquake it might account for
+present appearances. Edward Lhwyd, the great antiquary,
+was particularly struck by them 200 years ago, and his description
+and remarks are equally applicable to-day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_044.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_044_s.jpg" width="400" height="279" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">ROCKS ON GLYDER FACH</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>'On the utmost top of the Glyder,' he says, 'I observed
+prodigious heaps of stones, many of them of the largeness
+of those of Stonehenge, but of all the irregular shapes
+imaginable, and all lying in such confusion as the ruins of
+any building can be supposed to do.... Had they been in
+a valley I had concluded they had fallen from the neighbouring
+rocks ... but, being on the highest part of the hill,
+they seemed to me much more remarkable.' He goes on to
+remark upon a precipice which has not been identified (see<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>
+<i>Esgair Felen</i>). 'On the west side of the same hill there is,
+amongst many others, one naked precipice (near or one of
+the Trigfylchau, but distinguished by no particular name), as
+steep as any I have seen, but so adorned with numerous
+equidistant pillars, and these again slightly crossed at certain
+joints. 'Twas evident that the gullies or interstices
+were occasioned by a continued dropping of water down this
+cliff.' Trigfylchau, by the way (i.e. 'Twisting Gaps'), is a
+name which does not seem to be known at the present day.</p>
+
+<p>Lhwyd's description fired the curiosity of the travellers
+who explored Wales nearly a century later, and the amusing
+part of it is that they could not find this wonderful mountain,
+or even hear of it from the intelligent natives.</p>
+
+<p>Cradock (1770) found an aged man, who told him that the
+mountain was 'now called the Wythwar (Wyddfa),' which
+stands 'a few miles south of the parish of Clynog;' and H. P.
+Wyndham went further by identifying it with 'the mountain
+called Ryvil in Speed's map' (i.e. Yr Eifl). It shows how
+little the natives knew about their mountains until the
+travellers came and taught them. Pennant made the ascent,
+and gives a picture of the summit. Bingley also went up,
+and gives a good description.</p>
+
+<p>Kingsley's fine description, in <i>Two Years Ago</i>, of Elsley's
+ascent really applies mainly to Glyder Fach, though he only
+mentions the Fawr. Elsley's descent, by the way, was
+apparently into Bochllwyd by way of Castell Gwynt.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_046.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_046_s.jpg" width="400" height="278" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">GLYDER FAWR, NORTH FACE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Glyder Fawr</b> (3,279 ft.).&mdash;The meaning of the name
+is a mystery. One Welsh scholar gravely tells us that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>real name is Clydar, which at once yields the obviously suitable
+meaning of a 'well-shaded ploughed ground.' Either
+of these epithets would be quite as appropriate to the Sahara
+itself, for the two Glyders are among the barest and rockiest
+mountains in all Wales. The two roads which lead from
+Capel Curig, one over the Pass of Llanberis and the other
+through Nant Ffrancon to Bangor, enclose between them the
+whole of the Glyder group, forming a singular figure, which
+recalls Menenius Agrippa's description of the Second Citizen
+as 'the great toe of this assembly.' The toe is slightly bent;
+Penygwrhyd is the knuckle, Capel Curig the tip of the nail,
+and Benglog (the head of Nant Ffrancon) is just in the
+inside bend. The highest point of the group lies practically
+in a straight line with Snowdon and Carnedd Llewelyn, and,
+roughly speaking, midway between them. Of Snowdon it
+commands a profoundly impressive view, and is in turn itself
+best seen from the Carnedds.</p>
+
+<p>Both Glyders are very frequently ascended from Penygwrhyd,
+Llanberis, Capel Curig, and Ogwen.</p>
+
+<p>The simplest way up is from the top of the Llanberis
+Pass, from which a ridge leads to the summit. This is, perhaps,
+the best way if the start be made from any place not
+on the north side, though from Penygwrhyd the route may
+be boggily abbreviated by making up the little valley to the
+north-west. From Ogwen the usual ascent passes near Twll Du,
+though the ridge separating the Idwal and Bochllwyd lakelets
+is sometimes chosen, and certainly affords a greater
+variety of fine views.</p>
+
+<p>Climbing on this mountain is practically confined to its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>
+northern face, and even there very little has been done.
+There are also a few rocks on the west side. The climbing-book
+at Penygwrhyd contains very few references to it. At
+Easter in 1884 H. and C. S. mention that they enjoyed fine
+glissades down the snow slopes on the north-west side to Llyn y
+Cwn, but the first real climb recorded therein is that of the
+big gully in the north face, made on November 25, 1894, by
+J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E. From the far end of Llyn Idwal
+a long scree leads up to the mouth of the gully, which may be
+identified from a distance by the pitch which blocks it about
+half-way up and a broad strip of grass outside it on the west.
+The point to make for is the head of a wall which runs up
+from the extreme south end of the llyn to the corner of a
+huge mass of bare smooth rock. If the traveller reaches
+this point without being engulfed in the boggy ground which
+fringes the llyn he will now continue in the same general
+direction as the wall, and soon sees the gully just before him.
+A kind of trough, probably produced by weathering of the
+rock, is now seen on the left, and this, as it appeared more
+interesting than the steep grass of the central part of the
+gully, was followed at first by the above-mentioned party.
+The trough is very easy at the foot, and has good holds,
+which higher up incline outwards, and become less and less
+prominent until at last progress becomes a question of
+delicacy and circumspection. Before the trough came entirely
+to an end the party traversed into the gully, but even
+there found the ascent to the pitch far from easy. Utilising the
+full length of their 80-ft. rope, and moving only one at a
+time, they reached the cave under the big pitch. Here it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+appeared hopeless to climb out on either side, and recourse
+had to be taken to engineering of the same kind which was
+successfully put in practice some years ago on Dow Crags, in
+Lancashire, by a very scientific band of brothers. Similar
+success crowned the efforts of this party, and brilliant
+gymnastics on the part of the leader landed them safely at
+the top of this difficulty. From this point the remainder of
+the climb has a deceptively easy appearance. Some 80 ft.
+higher up the difficulties begin again, and continue up to a
+small pitch just below the top. On one stretch it was found
+necessary to adopt a compromise between the wisdom of the
+serpent and the aimlessness of the crab, advancing by lateral
+jerks in a semi-recumbent attitude. Possibly these extreme
+measures would not have been necessary but for the fact that
+on this occasion the conclusion of a spell of three weeks of
+incessant rain was chosen as a suitable opportunity for
+attacking this face of the Glyder. It was the opinion of the
+party that the climb&mdash;at any rate in its then condition&mdash;is
+incontestably more difficult than that of the western buttress
+of Lliwedd. The time taken was 4 hours, including a short
+halt for luncheon.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 394px;">
+<a href="images/i_050.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_050_s.jpg" width="394" height="537" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">WESTERN GULLY IN NORTH FACE OF GLYDER FAWR</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This gully is the more westerly of two. The other one
+was climbed in May 1895 by J. M. A. T., H. H., and W. E.
+One of the party says of it, 'We soon came to some rather
+difficult rocks; we climbed them close under the right-hand
+wall&mdash;a really stiff little bit. The gully here is still quite
+broad, and on the left side of it we saw another way, which
+looked much easier. We found no special difficulty in the
+jammed stone which looks from below such a formidable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>obstacle. Two of us climbed it on the right; the third man
+circumvented it on the left. From this point to the summit
+is excellent throughout, the rocks being steep, the holds
+strong, well defined, and most conveniently distributed. In
+my opinion it is the best thing on the Glyders, and it can be
+done by a single man.' Still further east a narrow crack gives
+a very steep but easy rock staircase, while west of the gully
+first described is another with two pitches, of which the lower
+is harder and the upper easier than they look. The 60 ft. just
+above the latter are climbed by means of slight rugosities
+in the left-hand wall. It is somewhat curious that when, in
+February 1873, Glyder Fawr was crossed from Ogwen by
+way of Twll Du, with John Roberts as guide, it was recorded
+in the <i>Alpine Journal</i><a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 11.">&nbsp;[11]&nbsp;</a> as something of a feat and something
+of an eccentricity. Twenty years have made a great change,
+and now, about Christmas or Easter, the snow on these hills
+is marked by tracks in many directions.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 595px;">
+<a href="images/i_052.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_052_s.jpg" width="595" height="373" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">LLYN IDWAL
+
+a, The gullies of Glyder Fawr.
+
+b, Descent to the foot of Twll Du.
+
+c, Twll Du.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Esgair Felen</b> (i.e. 'The Yellow Shank').&mdash;In August
+1893 G. W. de T. found very good rocks and gullies
+on this shoulder of Glyder Fawr. Ascending from just
+above the cromlech stone in Llanberis Pass, the buttress
+immediately above can be climbed on the right or south-west
+side. The upper half may be climbed by a narrow
+gully, too narrow at first to enter, and giving little hold for
+hands or feet, and that little not sound. Apparently the
+leader climbed up a little way, and then the rest of the party
+climbed up the leader. They found good climbing without
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>special difficulty among the rocks on the top of the great
+gully in the centre.</p>
+
+<p>It is somewhere in this neighbourhood that we must
+look for the mysterious precipice of which Edward Lhwyd
+wrote two hundred years ago as being strikingly columnar
+in structure, and possibly identical with 'one of the
+Tregvylchau or Treiglvylcheu.' He says it is part of the
+Glyder, and faces west. Perhaps it is about the east side of
+Cwm Patric. As seen from well down the Llanberis
+Pass these rocks have a very striking appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The term 'esgair' is very commonly applied to long
+straight projections from higher mountains. Instances of
+its use are E. Weddar, E. Yn-Eira, E. Geiliog, E. Hir, and
+E. Galed.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_054.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_054_s.jpg" width="400" height="245" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">TRYFAEN FROM THE EAST
+
+(Sketched by Colin B. Phillip)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Tryfaen</b> (3,010 ft.), not to be confounded with the hill
+of the same name on the Llanberis side of Snowdon, or the
+other near Bettws Garmon, is the most remarkable rock
+mountain in Wales; it has two pillar stones on its summit,
+from which it is often said that the name (= 'three rocks')
+is derived. In answer to this it is enough to point out that
+the assumed third stone is not there, and could not have
+disappeared without a trace, while the name would equally
+well mean 'three peaks,' which the mountain certainly has
+when viewed from either east or west. The Welsh dictionaries
+give a word 'tryfan' with the sense of 'anything
+spotted through,' and, whether or not this has anything to
+do with the origin of the name, the component rocks certainly
+are quartz-speckled in a most extraordinary manner.
+The mountain is practically a ridge of rock running in a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>southerly direction from the head of Llyn Ogwen towards
+Glyder Fach, from which it is separated by a sharp dip, Bwlch
+Tryfaen. This dip, which may be reached either from Cwm
+Bochllwyd on the west or from Cwm Tryfaen on the east,
+offers by far the easiest ascent of the mountain. The best
+starting-point for Tryfaen is Ogwen Cottage, at Benglog,
+from which Llynbochllwyd is reached in 25 and the said
+dip in 45 minutes; so that, if need were, the whole height
+(2,000 ft.) and distance (1&frac12; mile) to the summit could be
+attained within the hour. From Capel Curig, on the other
+hand, there is a good hour's walking before the highroad is
+left, beyond Gallt y Gogof, which Borrow calls Allt y G&ocirc;g
+(Cuckoo Cliff), and even then the traveller has about as far
+to go as if he were starting from Benglog. Most of the
+Tryfaen climbs being on the east side they can be reached
+from Capel Curig with much less exertion than from Penygwrhyd,
+the route from which involves a long, rugged ascent,
+hot after the sun has risen and ankle-breaking after it has set.</p>
+
+<p><i>Climbs.</i>&mdash;These are extraordinarily abundant, and the
+hold is nearly everywhere gritty and good. The most
+popular climbs are:</p>
+
+<p>1. The east side, including especially the two gullies on
+either side of the summit known as the North and South
+Gullies.</p>
+
+<p>2. The north ridge up from the head of Llyn Ogwen.</p>
+
+<p>3. The west side.</p>
+
+<p><i>The South Gully</i>, climbed by R. W. (1887). The first
+ascent noticed in the <i>Book of Penygwrhyd</i> being that of
+H. G. G. and W. in 1890. On September 5, 1891, H. G. G.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>
+and E. B. T. offered some clear notes on the subject, to the
+following effect: The first difficulty consists of three or four
+jammed stones, each slightly overhanging the one beneath,
+with a total height of about 10 ft. It can be passed by
+keeping to the right close to the obstacle, but would not be
+easy in wet weather for any climber single-handed. At the
+place where the gully divides the left-hand or nearer
+division is not difficult. The broad division was found
+impracticable by a party of four on September 4, 1891, the
+large smooth rocks at the top being very wet. This place
+was climbed in 1890 by Messrs. G. and W. by keeping
+to the extreme right close to the wall of the gully, and
+then returning along a narrow ledge. It was an awkward
+place. There is nothing above where the two gullies unite
+that offers any real difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>The North Gully is the more difficult of the two if the
+immediate centre is to be followed; but it is always practicable
+to break out on the face to the right. The difficulties
+of the South Gully are not so severe, but such as they are
+they must be climbed, as there is no lateral escape.</p>
+
+<p>Under date of June 9, 1894, a very clear account is given
+by J. M. A. T., J. R. S., and H. E. At the first obstacle the
+first man climbed up into the hole formed by the projection
+of the topmost rock, but, as the next beneath slopes outwards
+and downwards, found it impossible to relinquish a
+crouching posture. The pitch was abandoned. The right-hand
+rocks close by were taken, and the gully rejoined
+without difficulty. At the fork the northern branch was
+chosen. It can scarcely be called a gully; the water trickles<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>
+down over the crags in several places, but there is no main
+or well-defined channel. A pinnacle is soon seen on the
+right, and here the climbing becomes difficult; the footholds
+are far apart, and the small tufts of grass, which were then
+wet and slippery, cannot be trusted. The course taken was
+to the extreme left, and as far as possible from the pinnacle,
+and in this respect it differs from that taken by Messrs.
+H. G. G. and W. in 1890. A firm, flat grass-covered shelf,
+at least a yard square, is seen in a straight line up above,
+and as soon as the first man has reached this a rope can be
+used to advantage. A steep rock some 12 ft. in height and
+of ordinary difficulty remains, and the climb thence to
+the summit is quite simple. By keeping to the left a cavern
+is reached, the further end of which opens like a trap door
+upon the summit; this interesting method of concluding
+the ascent should not be missed.</p>
+
+<p>On August 25, 1892, G. B. B. with Mr. and Mrs. T. R.
+climbed the five pitches of the South Gully, <i>a</i>, <i>b</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>d</i>, <i>e</i>; <i>a</i>
+by the right-hand wall, <i>b</i> in the centre, <i>c</i> by divergence to
+the right-hand branch and return to the left over a narrow
+ledge, <i>d</i> and <i>e</i> in the centre or slightly on one side of the
+face. The gully was never left. Time, about 90 minutes.</p>
+
+<p><i>North Gully.</i>&mdash;This appears to have been climbed in
+1888 by R. W. and T. W. Writing on September 5, 1891,
+H. G. G. and E. B. T. gave the following hints:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>The first difficulty is at the bottom, below the level of
+any part of the South Gully, and might easily be missed if
+the horizontal track be followed. On August 30, 1891, these
+gentlemen found the middle of this (after very wet weather)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>
+quite impracticable, and the smooth rock on the right hand,
+lying at a very high angle, was also wet and very difficult.
+Either might possibly be passed in a dry season, the rock
+almost certainly. The next point of note is a very large
+lodged stone. Going under this they passed through the
+hole above, one climbing on the other's shoulder and afterwards
+giving him help from above. The passage was not
+easy.</p>
+
+<p>The next difficulty is made up of two lodged stones
+about 10 ft. apart. The first might be passed in dry weather.
+A tempting ledge to the left was climbed without result;
+ultimately they rounded the obstacle by keeping to the
+right.</p>
+
+<p>On September 19 W. E. C., H. R. B., and M. K. S. ascended
+the North Gully. They describe it as containing
+seven pitches, two of which are caverns. They believed that
+this gully had only once been climbed clean before&mdash;namely,
+in the autumn of 1888, by Messrs. R. W. and T. W.</p>
+
+<p>On April 1, 1892, H. B. D., F. W. G., and A. M. M., with
+Mrs. D. and Mrs. C., ascended the North Gully in 2 hours
+10 minutes. The last pitch gave some trouble.</p>
+
+<p>In August 1892 W. H. P. and G. B. B. climbed all the
+pitches of the North Gully clean, taking the sixth from the
+bottom by the right side and the rocks straight to the
+summit stones, from where the gully divides. Time,
+91 minutes. There is a singular difference of opinion among
+climbers as to the relative difficulty of these two climbs.
+Varying conditions of rocks and climbers may partly account
+for this. Without pretending to decide the matter either<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>
+way the writer would give it as his experience that unusual
+conditions more readily affect the southern for evil and the
+northern for good. For instance, wet or ice makes the
+former very nasty without altering the latter to the same
+extent, while really deep and good snow moderately improves
+the former but converts the latter into a delusion and a
+mockery, for it ceases altogether to be a climb at all, and
+becomes a mere snow walk. Even then it is worth doing if
+it were only to see the wonderful convoluted strata, in the
+case of more than one great block imitating the rings in the
+trunk of a tree.</p>
+
+<p><i>Nor'-Nor' Gully.</i>&mdash;On September 18, 1891, Messrs.
+W. E. C., G. S., and M. K. S. ascended a gully leading on to
+the north ridge of Tryfaen just to the north of the most
+northerly of the three peaks. The gully contains three
+pretty pitches, all of which were climbed, but two of them
+can be turned.</p>
+
+<p>There is yet a fourth gully, still further north, but it has
+only one obstacle in it, and more scree than anyone can
+possibly want. So much attention has been devoted to these
+gullies during the last few years that the ridges which
+separate them have been unduly neglected. To the writer
+at least they have always seemed to offer better climbing
+than any of the gullies, and that of a kind which is very
+much less common. The ridges on either side of the
+North Gully are especially fine, and would satisfy the most
+exacting but for one thing, and that is that the hold is
+almost too good.</p>
+
+<p><i>The North Ridge</i>, from the head of Llyn Ogwen, is of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>
+very imposing appearance, and was long spoken of with
+bated breath. In reality it is a fine but very simple
+and safe approach to the summit. The gluttonous climbers
+of the present day will probably complain that it is not a
+climb at all, but, though the difficulties, such as they are, can
+all be turned, the more enterprising members of a party can
+always find abundant outlets for their energies in numerous
+wayside problems.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the rocks are very fantastic in shape; one
+projecting horizontally bears a resemblance to a crocodile
+and can be easily recognised from the east. Highly crystalline
+quartz veins render the rock surfaces even rougher
+than they would otherwise be, and in a few places the face
+of the rock is covered with egg-like projections, each containing
+a core of quartz. At a little distance they look like
+huge barnacles; their real nature may be left to the
+geologists.</p>
+
+<p>On reaching the heads of the principal gullies the
+climber will fall in with some capital rocks on or beside
+his path along the ridge. At the very top he cannot fail
+even in mist to recognise the two upright rectangular stones,
+which are so conspicuous from afar. The feat of jumping
+from one to the other, by the performance of which Mr.
+Bingley's friend made that eminent traveller's 'blood chill
+with horror' nearly a hundred years ago, is not as difficult
+as it has been represented to be, and the danger of falling
+over the precipice in case of failure is purely imaginary.
+The unskilful leaper would merely fall on to the rough
+stones at the base of the pillars. Of the two jumps, that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+from north to south is the easier. Bingley's guide,
+perhaps anxious to cap the Saxon's feat, told him that
+'a female of an adjoining parish was celebrated for having
+often performed this daring leap.' Large as the pillars are
+it is difficult to believe that they were placed in the position
+they occupy by unassisted nature; they seem too upright,
+too well squared, and too level-topped; with a cross-piece
+on the top they would form a nobly-placed 'trilithon,' of
+which any 'dolmen-builder' might be proud.</p>
+
+<p><i>The West Side.</i>&mdash;A great part of this is occupied by
+a series of huge slabs, which have been compared by
+F. H. B. to Flat Crags on Bow Fell. In places luxuriant
+heather artfully conceals sudden drops and rolling stones
+on account of which several tempting descents on this side
+will prove annoying. The only important gully is well
+seen from Benglog. To reach it strike south-east by the
+highroad at a point about half a mile east of Benglog.
+About half-way up the gully trends away to the left, and
+comes out at a deep notch in the summit ridge. Excellent
+scrambling again may be found by climbing up eastward
+from the shore of Bochllwyd.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 597px;">
+<a href="images/i_062.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_062_s.jpg" width="597" height="376" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">TRYFAEN FROM THE NORTH-WEST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Moel Siabod</b> (2,860 ft.) is ascended most easily from
+Capel Curig, but Dolwyddelan and Penygwrhyd are only
+slightly more distant, though considerably more boggy. The
+ascent is worth making, for the sake of the excellent view
+of Snowdon. The east side is by far the most abrupt, and
+here a few good crags are found. From this side also the
+mountain looks its best, but even seen from the west, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>tamer side, it is, especially when snow-clad and lit by the
+setting sun, a remarkably effective feature in the landscape.</p>
+
+<p>Readers of 'Madoc,' if such indeed there be, may remember
+that Southey was benighted on the hills around
+Dolwyddelan. In that episode Moel Siabod may well have
+played a part.</p>
+
+<p>About the year 1830 Mr. Philip Homer was benighted on
+it, and died of exhaustion. Mention of this accident is
+made both by Roscoe (1836) and by Cliffe, who says he
+heard many details from an eye-witness. The body was
+taken to Capel Curig and buried there.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Snowdon</b> (3,560 ft.) is the loftiest peak in this island
+south of Scotland, and one of the most beautiful that is to
+be seen anywhere. The name seems to have originally
+described a whole district which the Welsh called Craig
+Eryri (variously rendered 'rock of eagles' and 'rock of
+snow'). The peak itself is called Y Wyddfa (pronounced
+'E Withva'), which is usually translated 'place of presence'
+or 'of recognition;' but the splendid suppleness of the
+Welsh language admits of rival renderings, such as 'place of
+shrubs or trees,' with which may be compared the name
+Gwyddallt&mdash;i.e. 'woody cliff;' and even, as a non-climber
+once observed, on seeing a panting form appear at the top of
+a gully on Clogwyn Garnedd, 'place for a goose.'</p>
+
+<p>Leland speaks of 'the greate Withaw hille,' and says 'all
+Cregeryri is Forest,' and, in another place, 'horrible with
+the sight of bare stones as Cregeryri be.'</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_064.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_064_s.jpg" width="400" height="339" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>Snowdon may be climbed from many points. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>
+nearest inns are Penygwrhyd, Beddgelert, Snowdon Ranger,
+and Llanberis. The peculiarity of Snowdon consists in the
+huge cwms which radiate from its summit, and these will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>
+be found described in their order, following the course of the
+sun, and the climbs to be found in each will be indicated.</p>
+
+<p>Books on Snowdon are simply countless, and the same
+remark applies to the pictures which have been taken of it
+and the panoramas which have been drawn from it.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately a very large number of fatal accidents
+have taken place on this mountain, and an interesting but
+somewhat incomplete article on this subject will be found
+in <i>Chambers's Journal</i> for May 1887. The Mr. Livesey
+there mentioned as having been killed by lightning seems to
+have been really named Livesley, and was of Ashton, in
+Mackerfield, Lancashire. This occurred on Sunday, September
+21, 1884 (the <i>Times</i>, September 23).</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 582px;">
+<a href="images/i_066.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_066_s.jpg" width="582" height="324" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">CWM GLAS AND THE PARSON&#39;S NOSE, FROM THE WEST</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Cwm Glas.</b>&mdash;As there are three or four tarns on
+Snowdon called Llyn Glas, so the name of Cwm Glas
+appears to have been confusingly popular. Cwm Glas
+proper lies immediately under Crib y Ddysgl, and Crib Goch
+on the north side; but, to say nothing of the next hollow to
+the west, which is called Cwm Glas Bach (i.e. little), a recess
+lying just north of both is called by the same name, and it
+would appear, from some of the early topographers, that
+they understood the term to comprehend the whole valley
+which forms the west approach to the Llanberis Pass. The
+proper cwm can only be reached from Llanberis or from
+Penygwrhyd. From the latter (the usual starting-point) the
+simplest, though not the shortest, way is to go over the
+pass and down to Pontygromlech, and there, instead of
+crossing by the bridge, bear away to the left, and up into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>the cwm. Experts can save something by striking off much
+earlier near the top of the pass. Those who come from
+Llanberis will leave the highroad at a point 3&frac12; miles from
+the station and about half a mile short of the cromlech.</p>
+
+<p>Before the two pools come into sight several short but
+striking pieces of rock are met with, and, indeed, the rock
+scenery on all sides is extremely fine. Many people come
+here for that reason alone, and are content to see the rocks
+without climbing them. For them there is an easy way up
+to join the Llanberis path by way of the grassy slope west
+of the Parson's Nose, of which more anon. Between the
+two a second ridge is seen, smaller than the Nose, and
+roughly parallel to it, leading out on to Ddysgl, much further
+up. Not far from this Mr. F. R. Wilton died in 1874 (see
+<i>Crib y Ddysgl</i>) and Mr. Dismore was killed in 1882.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Parson's Nose.</b>&mdash;The best known climb in Cwm Glas
+is on the rock called Clogwyn y Person (i.e. 'Parson's Cliff'),
+alias the <b>Parson's Nose</b>. It is a spur of Crib y Ddysgl, and
+is easily identified by its projecting in a northerly direction
+between the two little pools in Cwm Glas. No one seems to
+know the origin of the name; possibly it may have been scaled
+by the famous climbing cleric who haunted Snowdonia half a
+century ago. The most striking feature of this fine ar&ecirc;te is the
+wonderful excellence of the hold. Faces crossed by precarious-looking
+ledges are found on a closer inspection to have behind
+those ledges deep, narrow, vertical rifts, affording the perfection
+of hand-hold, while the rock surface itself is so prickly
+and tenacious that boot-nails grip splendidly, and the only<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>
+difficulty for the fingers is that some of them are apt to get
+left behind on the rocks. It may be climbed direct up the
+face, either from the very foot or from a point more to the
+right and some 30 ft. higher up. The height of the initial
+climb is something like 100 ft. Again, there is a gully on
+each side of the actual Nose, and it is usually climbed by
+one or other of these. The western gully is blocked above
+by an overhanging rock, over or under which it is necessary
+to climb or crawl. The gully on the opposite or east side is
+longer, and generally much wetter, and is on that account
+considered more difficult either to go up or to come down.
+The three ascents unite close to the cairn. Above the cairn
+the ridge continues, broken by only two respectable pitches,
+and leads on to the great tower on Crib y Ddysgl, some
+1,200 ft. above the beginning of the climb. It is not, however,
+necessary, in order to get up out of Cwm Glas on to
+the main ridge, to climb the Nose at all; by proceeding west
+and over some white quartz slabs, close under the ridge, and
+then turning left, one can get out easily a few feet from
+the top of the Nose, or nearly the same point may be
+reached from the east side, only it will be after a less
+interesting and generally somewhat wetter ascent. If a
+climb is desired when the gullies are in a dangerous condition,
+there is a place further to the right than the right-hand
+or west gully where a very steep but safe scramble among
+big blocks leads up on to the bridge of the Nose.</p>
+
+<p>The following ascents are noted in the book at Penygwrhyd,
+that by T. W. and R. W. being probably the first:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><i>1887, September 18.</i>&mdash;W. E. C. and A. E.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>1890, June 21.</i>&mdash;W. P. and G. B. B. tried the Parson's
+Nose, and, climbing the cleft from the south side, crawled
+between the rocks which block its upper part, then up the
+crags to the right for a short distance.</p>
+
+<p><i>1892, April 2.</i>&mdash;A party which had ascended the north
+gully of Tryfaen the day before ascended the Parson's
+Nose up the ridge, starting from the cleft. About 50 ft.
+above it a wall of rock is met which must be climbed either
+round a corner on the right hand or up a steep chimney on
+the left. The latter route was chosen, but a large stone (the
+middle one of three on the left side of the chimney) slipped,
+and remained in a dangerous position.</p>
+
+<p><i>1892, August.</i>&mdash;W. H. P. and G. B. B. climbed the 'wall
+of rock' straight up, which they thought easier than the
+chimney to the left or the green gully to the right.</p>
+
+<p><i>September 23.</i>&mdash;Mrs. H., Miss B., and a large party of
+gentlemen climbed the Parson's Nose by the gully on the
+Llanberis side and the jammed stone.</p>
+
+<p>Bingley visited this cwm at the close of last century,
+and gives a good description of it. He was much impressed
+by Caddy of Cwm Glas, the strong woman. Her real name,
+by the way, was Catherine Thomas.</p>
+
+<p>Cwm Glas Bach also has some fine rocks, and from the
+head of it up to Cyrn Las a good climb may be had.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Crib Goch</b> ('The Red Ridge') stretches down westward
+from Crib y Ddysgl to about opposite the summit of the
+Pass of Llanberis. The name is sometimes used for the
+whole length of both cribs. This is admitted on all hands<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>
+to be inaccurate, if convenient, but there is some difference
+of opinion as to where the line of demarcation should be
+drawn. Some say at Bwlch Goch (2,816 ft.), while others
+put it a quarter of a mile or more further west. About
+500 yards east of the Bwlch, at almost the highest point
+(3,023 ft.) of the ridge, a side-ridge strikes away to the north,
+while the main line continues eastward. The well-known
+pinnacles (including the 'Crazy' one) are close to Bwlch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>
+Goch, and on the north side of the ridge overlooking Cwm
+Glas. The southern side, sloping into Cwm Dyli, though
+very steep, is much less precipitous and rocky than the
+other.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_070.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_070_s.jpg" width="400" height="335" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">CRIB GOCH
+
+(Snowdon beyond)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Starting Points.</i>&mdash;Penygwrhyd and Gorphwysfa have
+almost a monopoly of Crib Goch, because for all other
+places&mdash;such as Llanberis, Beddgelert, Capel Curig, or
+Bettws y Coed&mdash;the distance from Gorphwysfa has simply to
+be added as so many extra miles along a highroad. In the
+case of Capel Curig this makes very little difference, seeing
+that Penygwrhyd lies on the direct route for any ascent of
+Snowdon, and to the latter there is no nobler approach than
+that along this ridge. Some have thought it sensational,
+and many have described its terrors in very sensational
+language; in fact, it takes the place which among the
+English lakes is filled by the far less striking Striding Edge
+on Helvellyn; but in truth, though it is the sort of place
+where ice, mist, and high wind may encroach to some
+extent on the margin of safety, to a steady head and foot
+there is no danger whatever. As for the hands, they are
+hardly required at all, though for those who like it plenty of
+real climbing can be had on the way.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_072.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_072_s.jpg" width="400" height="534" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">PINNACLES OF CRIB GOCH</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Any mountaineer worthy of the name will admit that the
+ridge walk up Snowdon by Lliwedd and down by Crib Goch
+is for its length one of the finest in Europe. The mere
+gymnast also finds here plenty of enjoyment and almost
+infinite variety. He may mount by the east ridge or by
+the north ridge, or in the corner between the two. Again,
+the north ridge may be reached by either of two gullies in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>its eastern flank. Of these two gullies the more southerly
+is the steepest and longest, and may be recognised at some
+distance by a peculiar split or gap, while the other and more
+northerly, formed in rock of most cutting quality, offers a
+convenient passage to the foot of the steep part of the north
+ridge, from which point there is, if required, an easy descent
+into Cwm Glas.</p>
+
+<p>The north ridge gives a short, pleasant scramble, and is
+somewhat sheltered from southerly winds, which are sometimes
+an annoyance on the east ridge.</p>
+
+<p>Further west there are several good gullies on the Cwm
+Glas side, especially round about the pinnacles. The
+Crazy Pinnacle may be ascended either on the north-east or
+on the south-west side. The former is now more favoured
+since the fall of a certain large stone on the latter, which
+gave a useful hold in former days. Thirty years ago this
+ridge was almost unknown. A writer of 1833 seems to
+imply that it had been ascended by saying that 'the passage
+of it is hazardous, from the shortness and slippery quality of
+the grass at those seasons of the year when the mountain
+may be approached;' but this is evidently a mere misapplication
+of what others had said about Clawdd Goch (Bwlch y
+Maen), on the other side of the mountain, and we do not
+hear of anyone climbing here before C. A. O. B. (1847)
+and F. H. B. a few years later. Between 1865 and 1875 it
+became better known, and in the books at Penygwrhyd we
+find it recorded that in April 1884 H. and C. S. climbed from
+Cwm Dyli, thence along the ridge by Crib y Ddysgl to the
+summit of Y Wyddfa.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In 1887, on June 30, E. K. climbed Crib Goch from
+Cwm Glas by the gully to the left of the outstanding or
+Crazy Pinnacle. Near the top two big stones are jammed
+in, and this compelled him to leave the gully; but on
+June 29, 1890, G. S. S. found these stones climbable by the
+aid of a crack in the rocks on the left hand. From this
+point the ridge can be reached by taking to the rocks on the
+right. They are sound, which is more than can be said for
+those on the left of the gully a little farther down.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_074.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_074_s.jpg" width="400" height="324" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">PART OF CRIB GOCH</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On July 31 and August 2 E. K. scrambled up the other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>
+gullies nearer Bwlch Goch, and found them easier than the first,
+which is the main one seen from Cwm Glas. He pronounced
+these climbs well worth trying, but not fit for beginners.</p>
+
+<p>On June 17, 1890, W. P. and G. B. B. ascended to Bwlch
+Goch, and bearing round the foot of the first pinnacle,
+climbed the gully between the first and the second. They
+found the holding good, but the rocks by which the gully is
+blocked somewhat difficult to pass.</p>
+
+<p>In 1894, on September 14, W. E. C., S., and B. climbed
+Crib Goch to the central cairn from Cwm Glas.</p>
+
+<p>On December 9, 1894, J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E. climbed
+the face from Cwm Glas beside an insignificant watercourse,
+reaching the ridge at the ruined cairn, then, passing along
+to the Crazy Pinnacle, scrambled down the gully on the
+Llanberis Pass side of it. The latter climb they describe as
+short but excellent, and the former as also good. No more
+climbs here are described in the <i>Book of Penygwrhyd</i>, but
+many others have been made. The truth is that for the
+last quarter of a century hardly a climber has visited Wales
+without making Crib Goch a primary object, and consequently
+there is not a climb on it whereof men say 'See,
+this is new.'</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Crib y Ddysgl.</b>&mdash;The name is pronounced practically
+'Cribbythiskle,' and sometimes written 'Distyl,' a spelling
+probably due to a desire to support the common derivation
+of the name from 'destillare' i.e. 'dripping ridge.' The
+climate of Wales, however, is not such as to make any ridge
+remarkable merely because it drips, and moreover the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>
+derivation will not account for the other instances of the
+word. For instance, two or three miles west of the Pitt's
+Head we have Trum y Ddysgyl, and the proximity to it of
+Cwmtrwsgyl suggests that some distinction is expressed by
+the penultimate syllables. Attempts to derive the name
+from 'disgl' (= 'dish') seem equally futile. Possibly the
+explanation may be found in the word 'dysgwyl' ('watch,'
+'expect') (compare Disgwylfa, in Cardiganshire), which
+would make it parallel to names like Lookingstead, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The highest point of Crib y Ddysgl is called Carnedd
+Ugain, and is a worthy rival of Y Wyddfa itself, being,
+according to the Ordnance surveyors, only 69 ft. lower&mdash;viz.
+3,491 ft.&mdash;and from some points of view a really beautiful
+peak.</p>
+
+<p>From the highest point a narrow crest runs due east,
+reaching in about a quarter of a mile the huge buttress
+called Clogwyn y Person, which comes up out of Cwm Glas
+and has been described with it. This part is sometimes spoken
+of as the Gribin, a name which the large Ordnance map
+does not give, and I know of no other authority for it, though
+it is quite a likely place to bear the name. The main ridge
+continues east until it joins Crib Goch. The ridge, though
+sharp, is not a likely place for an accident to a climber, and,
+indeed, no accident seems to have occurred actually on
+the ridge, but more than one death has taken place close by.
+On August 10, 1874, a young man of great promise, Mr.
+Frederick Roberts Wilton, son of Mr. Robert Wilton, of
+Doncaster,<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 12.">&nbsp;[12]&nbsp;</a> and a master in the City of London School,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>ascended Snowdon from Llanberis, and seems to have
+asked his way to Capel Curig, and to have been informed
+(not quite accurately) that he must turn to the right 'near
+the spring,' which is a good bit beyond the proper point of
+divergence from the Llanberis path. His body was ultimately
+found a fortnight later 'in the slippery course of a
+small mountain stream which descends sharply from the
+most southerly branch of the miners' path immediately
+below Crib y Ddysgl into the basin known as Cwm Glas.
+Evidently he had gone down a steep shingly slope with a
+wall of rock on his right hand over the entrance of a rocky
+watercourse.' These details are taken from a letter of his
+colleague, Mr. W. G. Rushbrooke. As the body was found
+in a posture of repose, and there was no sign of any injury
+sufficient to cause death, there is some reason to fear that
+this unfortunate gentleman died of exposure. For further
+details see the <i>Times</i> for August 22, 24, 26, and 28, 1874.</p>
+
+<p>Another death from exposure took place here in the
+following year&mdash;namely, that of Mr. Edward Grindley
+Kendall, of Crosby, near Leicester, of whom something will
+be said under the head of <i>Cwm Dyli</i>.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Cwm Dyli</b> (pronounced 'Dully') is the great eastern
+recess of Snowdon, and universally admitted to be the finest
+thing of the kind in Wales. The long sharp ridge of Crib
+Goch and Crib y Ddysgl bounds it on the north, while the
+almost equally fine, though less regular, ridge and majestic
+crags of Lliwedd shut it in on the south. It contains Llyn
+Llydaw (Hluddow), the largest lake, and Glaslyn, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>
+finest tarn on the whole mountain, and is one reason
+why the ascent of Snowdon from Capel Curig is the finest
+of all.</p>
+
+<p>The stream forms some fine cascades (800 ft. above sea
+level) in its descent to the Vale of Gwynant. Half a mile
+above these cascades Clogwyn Aderyn, on the north bank of
+the stream, and Clogwyn Penllechen, between it and Llyn
+Teyrn (1,238 ft.), have a climb or two on them. At this llyn
+the path from Gorphwysfa comes in, and along it the great
+majority of people enter the cwm. The next landmark as
+we ascend is Llyn Llydaw (1,416 ft.), nearly a mile long, the
+elevation of which so close an observer as Cliffe over-estimated
+by more than 1,000 ft. Climbers bound for Lliwedd leave
+the lake entirely on the right, and find a foot-bridge close
+to the exit of the stream from it. The path to Snowdon
+crosses the lake by a stone causeway, which is rarely submerged
+by floods. From the head of Llyn Llydaw there is
+a steep rise&mdash;555 ft. in a quarter of a mile&mdash;to the tarn
+called Glaslyn (1,971 ft.) Between this and the sky line at
+the head of the cwm, 1,290 ft. higher, only one more hollow
+remains, called Pantylluchfa, and here the crags of Clogwyn
+y Garnedd show up magnificently. It may be mentioned
+that many people get hopelessly confused in reading or
+giving descriptions of Snowdon, because they fail to distinguish
+Glaslyn, here, from Llyn Glas, half a mile to the
+north of it, in Cwm Glas, and another Llyn Glas less than a
+mile due west in Cwm Clogwyn. If they know Glaslyn
+they naturally assume that it must be in Cwm Glas, and if
+they know Cwm Glas they place Glaslyn in it. Some of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>
+the confusion would be avoided if the latter were called by
+what would seem to be its older and true name&mdash;Llynffynnonglas.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 576px;">
+<a href="images/i_080.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_080_s.jpg" width="576" height="363" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">SNOWDON FROM GLASLYN
+
+
+a, Bwlch y Snethan.
+b, Summit, with Clogwyn y Garnedd below.
+c, Junction of paths from Penygwrhyd and Llanberis.
+
+</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Cwm Dyli was the scene in 1875 of one of the strangest
+of all the disasters which have happened on the mountain.
+The victim was Mr. Edward Grindley Kendal, of
+Crosby, near Leicester, who on June 11 left Gwynant
+Valley in order to ascend Snowdon. Nothing more was
+heard of him or his till the end of that month, when a Mr.
+and Mrs. David Moseley, descending with a guide, found on
+the edge of Llyn Llydaw a wet and mouldy pair of boots,
+each containing a stocking marked 'Kendal' and a garter.
+It was at once surmised that the missing man had been
+wading and become engulfed in quicksands, which were
+stated to be numerous. His friends went so far as to employ
+a professional diver to explore the bottom of the lake, though
+it would seem that if the body was in the water simpler
+means would have answered the purpose, and if it was below
+the water the diver could neither find it nor follow it. At
+any rate he did not find it, because it was not there. It
+was found about ten days later on Crib y Ddysgl uninjured&mdash;it
+was identified by Mr. Ison, brother-in-law of the
+deceased and the jury at Llanberis found a verdict of
+'death from exposure.' It was not precisely stated on what
+part of Crib y Ddysgl the body was found, and nothing transpired
+as to the condition of the feet; but it is simply
+amazing to anyone familiar with the character of the ground
+that a bare-footed man should ever have got so far. Why he
+did it and how he did it will always remain among the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>mysteries of Snowdon.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 13.">&nbsp;[13]&nbsp;</a> Other deaths have taken place in
+this cwm, for which see under <i>Lliwedd</i> and <i>Clogwyn y
+Garnedd</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It is curious that two of the lakes in this valley are
+among those mentioned 200 years ago by the learned
+Edward Lhwyd as 'distinguished by names scarce intelligible
+to the best Criticks in the British.'</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Clogwyn y Garnedd y Wyddfa</b>&mdash;i.e. 'the Precipice
+under the Cairn of Snowdon'&mdash;has been commonly known by
+the first three words only for at least 200 years. It is one
+of the grandest cliffs on Snowdon, and gives very fine
+climbing.</p>
+
+<p>For more than two centuries this precipice has been
+famous as a refuge for rare ferns and plants. The guide
+William Williams, well known as a botanist, lost his life
+here while in search of the Woodsia; so at least says Mr. T. G.
+Bonney, though he is far from accurate in the date of the
+accident, which, writing in 1874, he describes as having
+taken place 'some twenty years ago.' The actual date was
+June 19, 1861.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 14.">&nbsp;[14]&nbsp;</a> The old guide had taken up a lady and
+gentleman from Llanberis, and went from the top alone to
+gather ferns. The fall was 'down a declivity of three hundred
+yards.' The body was found at the foot of the precipice,
+after 'scouts' had been sent out. He had fallen from the
+point where the slope suddenly changes from about 45&deg; to,
+perhaps, 75&deg; or 80&deg;. The spot where he slipped was for many
+years, and perhaps still is, marked by a white stone.</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p>
+<p>On the shore of Glaslyn, at the south-west corner, there is
+a small cross of wood marking the spot where the body of
+Mr. Maxwell Haseler was found. He was making for
+Snowdon by the Lliwedd ridge, and fell from a short distance
+above Bwlch y Saethau. The party seem to have been well
+equipped, and contained members of experience, who were
+not without ropes and axes. They started on January 26,
+1879, for Snowdon by Lliwedd, and, after lunching about
+1 <small>P.M.</small> on Bwlch y Saethau, proceeded in the direction of
+Snowdon. Mr. Haseler took a separate course, more to the
+right hand, and almost immediately seems to have slipped and
+fallen. His body was found next morning by the shore of
+Glaslyn, and it was reckoned that he had fallen some 600 or
+700 ft. The inquest was held at Penygwrhyd. The victim of
+this accident was only twenty-three years old.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 15.">&nbsp;[15]&nbsp;</a></p>
+
+<p>The following notes are among the records of Penygwrhyd:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>On September 23, 1887, W. E. C. and A. E. ascended
+Snowdon from Glaslyn by the first gully on Clogwyn y
+Garnedd.</p>
+
+<p>In 1890, on June 20, W. P. and G. B. B. descended from
+Snowdon to Haseler's Cross by the gully immediately above
+it in Clogwyn y Garnedd.</p>
+
+<p>In 1890, on September 27, F. W. J. found an excellent
+gully climb, possibly that referred to in the note of September
+23, 1887. He started from Glaslyn, keeping to the
+right edge of the lake, and, facing towards Bwlch y Saethau,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>saw a gully choked by jammed stones (five in number),
+beginning almost from the foot. It has often been climbed.
+The most interesting and difficult piece is where a large
+stone roofs a cavern some 15 ft. high. In it there is a kind
+of skylight, through which the climber must go by an indescribable
+twist of the body. From the bottom of the gully
+to the huts where the climb ends is 900 ft., all except a
+portion of the upper end being narrow gully, and the rest a
+scramble over rocks.</p>
+
+<p>On December 13, 1891, Mrs. H. ascended the big
+Clogwyn y Garnedd gully direct to the summit of Snowdon.</p>
+
+<p>On September 24, 1892, Miss B. and a large party of
+gentlemen climbed (second lady's ascent) the Clogwyn y
+Garnedd gully through the cavern.</p>
+
+<p>In May 1893 a party climbed up by this and down by
+the next gully, on the north, which has its head just below
+the huts.</p>
+
+<p>In September 1893 the two Misses T. descended the great
+gully in 1 hour 25 minutes.</p>
+
+<p>In 1894, on September 14, Messrs. W. E. C., S., and B.
+descended the face of Clogwyn y Garnedd to the left of the
+big gully.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a href="images/i_084.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_084_s.jpg" width="600" height="379" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">SNOWDON FROM THE NORTH, WITH LLIWEDD ON THE LEFT</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>Lliwedd</b> (2,947 ft.) stretches away eastward from the
+summit of Snowdon, dividing Cwm Dyli on the north from
+Cwm y Llan on the south. Strictly speaking, perhaps the
+name only applies to the central portion, where its magnificent
+northern crags overlook the head of Llyn Llydaw, but,
+as in the case of Crib Goch, the significance of the name has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>been enlarged, and it is frequently used to denote the whole
+length of the ridge.</p>
+
+<p>At the Nant Gwynant end a transverse ridge, called Gallt
+y Wenallt, bears near its base some remarkably fine rocks,
+on which there is very good climbing. West of the Gallt a
+side valley, called Cwm Merch, runs nearly due south, and
+beyond this Cwm Lliwedd proper begins. The southern
+slope of it is steep, but that to the north is imposingly precipitous.
+It is, in fact, unsurpassed in Wales. Advancing
+in the direction of Snowdon, the cliffs become less sheer and
+the crest less broken, and as soon as the highest point of
+Crib Goch is 'on with' the head of Llydaw Bwlch Ciliau
+offers a rough descent into Cwm Dyli. Next on the west
+comes the Criman, corresponding geographically to Clogwyn
+y Person on Ddysgl, but more broken; beyond them Bwlch
+y Saethau (i.e. <i>Arrows Gap</i>), leading down to the head of
+Glaslyn. The last quarter of a mile up to the top of
+Snowdon is very steep, rising nearly 1,000 ft. in that distance.
+It was here that Mr. Maxwell Haseler, in 1879, lost his life
+by keeping too much to the right.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_086.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_086_s.jpg" width="400" height="297" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">LLIWEDD FROM THE NORTH-WEST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In August 1872 Mr. T. H. Murray Browne and Mr.
+W. R. Browne, the discoverers of the Scafell Pinnacle, saw
+the merits of this climb, and attacked it without success.
+Public attention was first drawn to Lliwedd as a climbing-ground
+by the ascent made in 1883 by Messrs. T. W. Wall
+and A. H. Stocker, and thus described by the former in the
+<i>Alpine Journal</i>:<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 16.">&nbsp;[16]&nbsp;</a>&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>'This northern face consists of four buttresses, with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>three fairly well-defined couloirs between them. The
+summit ridge has two peaks, of which the western, nearer
+Snowdon, is the higher by a few feet. In January 1882
+from the summit of Crib Goch Mr. A. H. Stocker and
+myself were struck by the grand appearance of the
+Lliwedd cliffs, and hearing from Owen, the landlord of
+the Penygwrhyd Hotel, that the northern face had never
+been climbed, the desire to make the first ascent naturally
+came upon us. On the 10th we made our first attempt by
+the central couloir, which leads up to the depression between
+the two summits. As it was raining the whole day the
+rocks were in an abominable state, and it was with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>
+greatest difficulty that we managed to get up about 150 ft.'
+On January 3, 1883, they tried again. 'On January 4, after
+carefully observing the rocks of the buttress to the west of the
+central couloir, we came to the conclusion that it might be
+possible to cross the face in an upward direction from east to
+west, and then strike straight up. At 11.15 <small>A.M.</small> we got on the
+rocks, beginning from the lower of two dark green patches
+seen from below. From this a ledge runs up to the right,
+and if it had only been continuous Lliwedd would present no
+very great difficulties. Unfortunately this was not the case;
+there were most formidable-looking gaps in it, and the ledges
+above and below were tacked on to it by smooth and almost
+perpendicular gullies. Three bits in particular may be mentioned
+as far the hardest, although they are more or less
+typical of these crags, which nowhere offer 20 consecutive
+yards of easy rock-work. The first difficulty which presented
+itself was where the ledge was broken by a bold face of rock.
+One of us was pushed to the top of the smooth part, and
+finding that he could not descend to the ledge on the
+other side, he ascended a little higher, anchored himself
+firmly to the rocks, assisted his companion up, and let him
+down to the required ledge; then, throwing the rope over a
+pinnacle, he gave both ends to his companion to hold tight,
+and slid down the 40 ft. of rope to join him. After a few
+yards of easier work we came to a ledge about 6 inches wide
+and 4 yards long; the rock above was nearly perpendicular,
+with no hand-hold, and there was nothing below. It was the
+only way; we could not turn it, and somehow we got over,
+but neither of us wishes to be there again. From that ever-to-be-remembered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>ledge the climbing was grand work up to the
+point where we had to turn from a westerly direction to go
+straight up the face. Here there was one nasty corner. A
+narrow ledge about 2 inches wide had below it a sloping face
+of rock with three minute cracks in it. One of us had
+crossed this in safety, and so assumed a position in which
+the rope would have been of very little use. He was then
+opposed by a steep bit, topped by 4 ft. of perpendicular rock,
+with a very steep slope of heather above. At the moment
+that his last foot left the highest peg of rock his other knee
+slipped, and the heather, grass, and earth began to give way
+in his left hand. It was an awkward moment, for the other
+man was not well situated for supporting a jerk at the end
+of 30 ft. of rope, which would mean a fall of about 50 ft.
+Happily the other knee got on the heather and the axe held
+firm in the earth. Our difficulties were then over. The
+rocks grew less and less difficult as we ascended, and after
+4&frac12; hours of incessant work up 850 ft. of rocks we found ourselves
+on the summit ridge, exactly 13 yards from the cairn.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 594px;">
+<a href="images/i_088.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_088_s.jpg" width="594" height="354" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">LLIWEDD FROM LLYN LLYDAW
+
+
+a, East buttress.
+b, Central gully.
+c, West buttress.
+d, Slanting gully.
+
+</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>'It may be mentioned that the only real difficulties lie in
+the first 200 ft.; above that point the mountain presents rock-work
+of a very high order, but nothing stupendously difficult,
+the rock being very firm.</p>
+
+<p>'Future climbers will probably find that of the three
+couloirs the western is comparatively easy; the central may
+perhaps be ascended by climbing the lower rocks on the
+right, and the eastern by a long d&eacute;tour to the left. The
+buttress to the left of the central couloir looks as difficult as
+rocks possibly can look. But there is a chance that a careful<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>
+search among the rocks to the left of the central couloir
+might reward a rock-climber with an exciting and successful
+scramble. In any case the whole northern face is distinctly
+difficult.'</p>
+
+<p>Under the date of April 12, 1884, we find recorded by
+H. S. and C. S. an ascent of Lliwedd by the ridge from Llyn
+Llydaw, which is apparently nothing more than the ordinary
+walk, but in 1887, early in April, is an important note in the
+hand of Mr. Stocker.</p>
+
+<p>'<i>Hints for the Ascent of Lliwedd by the North Face.</i></p>
+
+<blockquote><p>(N.B. Lliwedd consists of two peaks&mdash;the eastern and
+western buttress&mdash;with a well-defined gully running
+up between them.)</p></blockquote>
+
+<blockquote><p>'1. <i>Ascent of Western Buttress to the Right of Central
+Gully.</i>&mdash;Make for the lower of two green patches easily seen
+from below just to the right of the foot of the central gully.
+From it work upwards to the right to the second green
+patch; then again upwards, still to the right, to a very small,
+steep green slope. From this the climb is almost straight
+up, inclining a little to the left at first. This will land the
+climber a few yards to the west of the cairn.</p>
+
+<p>'2. <i>Ascent by Central Gully and Western Buttress.</i>&mdash;Go
+up the gully till the foot of the steep bit is reached; then climb
+out of the gully by ledges on the right on to the western
+buttress. As soon as possible make straight up the face,
+keeping the gully a little to the left. This will land the
+climber at the cairn.</p>
+
+<p>'No. 2 is an easier climb than No. 1. All through the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>
+hand and foot hold is very good. The chief difficulties lie
+in the first 200 ft. after leaving the gully. The upper part
+is fairly easy. The whole climb is about 850 ft.'</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>In 1887, April 11, O. E. and T. V. S. ascended Lliwedd by
+the central gully at first and afterwards in a line rather left
+of the summit. Time, under 3&frac12; hours.</p>
+
+<p>In September 1887 W. E. C. and A. E. climbed Lliwedd
+by Mr. Stocker's second route in 1 hour 23 minutes from
+base to cairn, and subjoined a list of previous ascents, viz.&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>
+First attempt. T. H. M. B. and W. R. B., August 1872 (Vis. Bk.)<br />
+January 7, 1883, Messrs. Stocker and Wall, by route 1.<br />
+April 24, 1884, Messrs. A. H. S. and P., by route 2.<br />
+April 11, 1887, Messrs. O. E. and T. V. S., by route 2.<br />
+September 10, 1887, Mr. R. W., by route 1.<br />
+September 20, 1887, Messrs. W. E. C. and A. E., by route 2.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>On May 20, 1888, Mr. Alfred Evans and two friends,
+W. E. C. and &mdash; K., left Penygwrhyd at 10 <small>A.M.</small>, crossed the
+northern ar&ecirc;te of Crib Goch and Cwm Glas, and climbed
+Clogwyn Person and by Crib y Ddysgl to the top of Snowdon.
+Evans and K. then descended by the second or third gully
+from Bwlch Glas on Clogwyn y Garnedd to the head of Llyn
+Llydaw. C., E., and K. started up the central gully of
+Lliwedd at 5.5 <small>P.M.</small> At the bottom, and for some distance
+up, the rocks are water-worn and but little broken up, and
+the water flowing down rendered this part difficult. At the
+moment when C. was about 300 ft. above the scree Evans was
+about 80 ft. below him, and could not advance. C., therefore,
+went down 3 or 4 ft. and rested. Evans then tried to
+get out of the gully by the ledge mentioned in Mr. Stocker's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>
+account. This ledge is divided in two parts by a huge outstanding
+buttress with very scanty footing. Both men passed
+this; then Evans lowered himself by K.'s ankle on to a rocky
+foothold and tried to work to the right, but after doing 5 or
+6 ft.&mdash;half the requisite distance&mdash;his feet slipped, his arms
+were unable to support him, and he fell on his feet about
+5 yards on to the edge of a steeply sloping grass ledge running
+up to this part of the cliff. From this point in four or five
+terrible leaps he fell over and over, a total distance of 200 ft.,
+to the screes below. The accident happened at 6.55 <small>P.M.</small>,
+and K. is stated to have descended to the body, a distance
+of 200 ft. of the most awkward climbing in the whole gully,
+in the space of 5 minutes. This is hardly credible, but under
+such circumstances people do not judge time accurately.</p>
+
+<p>This accident need never have happened. If ever a party
+courted disaster it was done on this occasion.</p>
+
+<p>A cross was erected by friends of Mr. Evans on the spot
+where his body was found, but being much damaged by
+stones it had to be removed in 1892 to a rocky knoll not far
+off, where its position is more secure. It records the age of
+Mr. Evans as 24.</p>
+
+<p>On June 10, 1889, M., A. L. M., and B. climbed the north
+face of Lliwedd by the rocks of the western buttress, keeping
+close to the central gully almost the whole of the way.</p>
+
+<p>On January 1, 1893, F. P., F. W. O., and H. J. R. ascended
+the north face of Lliwedd by the western buttress, starting
+just to the right of the central gully, and coming up at the
+cairn. Time, 3 hours.</p>
+
+<p>At Easter 1893 H. G. G. and &mdash; W. climbed by the central<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>
+gully and the western buttress, coming out at the cairn, in
+3 hours 5 minutes, all the rocks being dry.</p>
+
+<p>On April 7, 1893, T. H. M. climbed the north-west face
+alone in 2&frac12; hours: he found two difficult spots near where
+Messrs. G. and W. scratched their initials on the rocks.
+Everything was dry.</p>
+
+<p>On September 14, 1894, W. E. C. and M. K. S. ascended
+the central gully for about 200 ft., then went up the western
+buttress, and crossed the gully again to the eastern buttress,
+about 300 ft. below the top, reaching the summit in 2 hours
+and 20 minutes.</p>
+
+<p>On October 14, 1894, J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E.
+ascended the central gully to a point apparently beyond that
+where others have broken out upon the face, and continued
+up a steep stretch of rock by taking a narrow gutter between
+the centre and right wall, the upper part being found difficult.
+A broad ledge brought them to a similar reach, where
+the outward slope of the holds became more and more pronounced.
+Finding the rocks above quite impassable, the
+party descended by means of an iron claw, which had to be
+left, and then by a ledge in the right wall and an awkward
+corner got out on the face of the west buttress. Here they
+found the ledges narrow and the crags extremely steep, but
+working upwards and tending to the right they crossed an
+incipient gully by an awkward stride, and thereafter met
+with only ordinary difficulties, but on passing a cleft which
+opens into the gully enjoyed a magnificent view of the latter,
+and struck the summit at the cairn. They pronounced the
+climb to be quite impossible for one man.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><i>The Slanting Gully.</i>&mdash;This gully, on the west side of the
+western buttress, is easily identified, being the next one to
+the west of the great central gully and a striking feature of
+the north face of Lliwedd. It is clearly marked all the way
+up, and is most readily approached by crossing diagonally
+up the screes below the great gully and then skirting the
+base of the rocks of the western buttress. This gully was
+attacked on January 9, 1894, by Messrs. F. O. W., C. W. N.,
+E. H. K., and H. K. It was then frozen up and covered
+with snow to a depth varying from a few inches to 3 ft.
+In 4 hours an estimated height of 350 or 400 ft. above the
+starting-point was attained, the whole of this distance, with
+the exception of a few steps in deep snow, having to be
+climbed. The party kept in the gully the whole way, usually
+close against the rocks on the western side. Progress was
+finally arrested at a point where the gully becomes, for some
+distance, a mere crack, formed by the western rocks overhanging
+an almost smooth slab, where hold for hand or foot
+seems almost entirely wanting. With longer time at disposal
+it seemed possible that this difficulty might have been
+surmounted by wriggling up inside the crack, or by a
+dangerous scramble on the face of the slab. Two members
+of the party were provided with crampons, and derived
+great steadiness and safety from their use. The uniformly
+steep angle at which this gully lies may be gathered from
+the fact that a r&uuml;cksack dropped from the highest point was
+picked up at the starting-point on the return. It was the
+opinion of most of the party that the condition of the snow
+and rocks was, on the whole, favourable for climbing, as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>
+ice and snow gave some assistance in places which without
+them might have been still more difficult.</p>
+
+<p>The next attempt is valuable, as notes were taken on the
+heights of some of the obstacles.</p>
+
+<p>On March 26, 1894, the gully was attacked by J. C. M.,
+O. M., and W. P. from the screes (2,300 ft.) at 1.55 <small>P.M.</small> They
+arrived in the cave (2,690 ft.) at 5 <small>P.M.</small> They considered the
+conditions favourable, except that the snow was melting, but
+found the climbing difficult all the way. At about 2,500 ft.
+a chimney 70 ft. high had to be squirmed up. They were of
+opinion that the gully could not be climbed direct, and all
+their efforts to break out on either side were frustrated.
+The climbing does not, as in the central gully, become more
+easy as progress is made; on the contrary, the difficulties
+increase. The party carried two ropes, one of 50 ft. and one
+of 80 ft., and at one place had to use the full length of both
+together. The descent took 2 hours.</p>
+
+<p>On Thursday, August 30, 1894, this gully cost a valuable
+life. Mr. J. Mitchell, of Oxford, an assistant editor of the
+<i>New Historical English Dictionary</i>, started from the foot
+at about 2 <small>P.M.</small> The first pitch was quickly ascended, and he
+then proceeded, apparently without difficulty, to the foot of
+the long chimney, which he passed by means of the face.
+On reaching the top he waved his handkerchief, and, being
+asked what it was like, replied that it was very stiff. Not long
+after he was seen in a cave, which the lookers-on (probably in
+error) identified with the highest point reached by previous
+climbers. From this he climbed with great difficulty to the
+top, as it appeared from below, of a long chasm, with his head<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>
+just below an overhanging rock, upwards of 150 ft. above the
+cave, and after more than half an hour of fruitless endeavour
+to make further progress he fell at 4.30 <small>P.M.</small>, and was killed
+on the spot. The body was found at the above-mentioned
+cave, and was brought down by four quarrymen at great
+personal risk. The lesson which should be drawn from this
+is, that if a man will insist on climbing alone he should not
+choose for his attack climbs which parties of greater skill
+and experience than his own have found to be beyond their
+powers.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Cwm y Llan.</b>&mdash;This large cwm stretches away from
+Snowdon top to the south-east between Yr Aran and Lliwedd.
+The scenery consists mainly of the South Snowdon Slate
+Works, which occupy the centre of the valley, at a height of
+about 1,100 ft., and of Sir Edward Watkin's road up
+Snowdon.</p>
+
+<p>There is very little climbing, though some parts of Geuallt
+and Aran are very steep. On the Lliwedd side there is a
+good rock (Craig Ddu), not far from the slate works, and
+others rather smaller near the exit of the valley, while at the
+head, near Bwlch y Maen, almost under Snowdon and near
+Bwlch y Saethau, some difficult passages occur.</p>
+
+<p>The slate quarry here must not be confused with 'Cwm
+y Llan slate quarry,' which is not in this valley at all, but on
+the western slope of Aran, about a third of a mile beyond
+Bwlch Cwm y Llan. This little pass (about 1,700 ft.) is very
+useful to anyone who, after a climb on Lliwedd, wishes to
+reach the nearest railway station, for Pont Rhyd-ddu is very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>
+much nearer than Llanberis and can be reached without
+climbing over Snowdon summit. From the top of Lliwedd
+the pass is in full view, and a stone wall is seen stretching
+half-way from it towards two little reservoirs which are
+some 600 yards higher up the valley than the slate works.
+It is a mile and a half from Lliwedd by way of these
+reservoirs to the top of the bwlch, which will hardly be
+reached within half an hour. From the bwlch a fair path
+on the right bank of the stream leads towards Llynygader,
+and soon crosses the path from Snowdon to Beddgelert. By
+keeping round the hill to the right the Carnarvon highroad
+(which is easily seen from above) is gradually neared. The
+distance from the bwlch direct to the station may be
+covered in three-quarters of an hour, making in all 1&frac14; hour
+from Lliwedd, as compared with at least 2&frac12; hours which
+would be required to reach Llanberis from the same point.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Cwm Creigiog</b> is a shallow and unimportant hollow on
+the south-west side of Snowdon, lying between Aran and the
+ordinary Beddgelert path to the summit. The cwm has no
+attractions for a climber, yet at least one life has been lost
+in it. This was in the winter of 1859, when a Mr. Cox is
+said to have ascended Snowdon from Llanberis, and to
+have become exhausted on the way down to Beddgelert,
+between Llechog and the farm called Fridduchaf. His
+foolish guide left him alone and went in search of food,
+with the result, which in such cases usually follows, of
+finding his unfortunate employer dead on his return. The
+spot is marked by a heap of stones. Mr. Baddeley says it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>
+'marks the spot where a tourist lost his life from exhaustion
+in 1874'&mdash;perhaps a mistake arising out of a death of the
+same kind in that year on quite another part of the mountain.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Clogwyndur Arddu</b> ('Black Precipice') is the magnificent
+ridge which divides Cwm Clogwyn on the south
+from Cwm Brwynog on the north, being the western buttress
+of Y Wyddfa, or more strictly of Carnedd Ugain. The
+ascent from the Snowdon Ranger traverses nearly the whole
+length of the ridge, which broadens out at its western end
+into Moel y Cynghorion, beyond which again is the low pass
+of Bwlch Maes y Cwm (1,100 ft.), giving an easy passage from
+Llanberis to Snowdon Ranger and Beddgelert. The cliffs
+on the north side of the ridge are grand, and have been concerned
+in more than one fatal accident. In 1846 the Rev.
+Henry Wellington Starr, B.A., of Magdalen Hall, Oxford,
+eldest son of Mr. George Starr, of Hilperton, Wiltshire, and
+then a curate in Northampton, left Dolbadarn Inn on
+September 6 to ascend Snowdon. He failed to return, and
+on inquiry being made by his friends people came forward
+with evidence which seemed to show that he had reached
+the top of Snowdon, then descended to Gorphwysfa, crossed
+the head of Llanberis Pass, and ascended Glyder Fawr. At
+that point a guide professed to have met him, and brought
+him about half-way down, particularly noting that he wore
+a single glove, corresponding exactly to another which he
+had left with his luggage at the hotel. Search was made in
+every direction, but it was not till the beginning of June in
+the following year that any light was thrown on the mystery.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>
+On that day some of the clothes were found accidentally by
+William Hughes, a huntsman, who was exercising his dogs,
+apparently on Moel Cynghorion, and next day, on further
+search being made, the skeleton was discovered buried under
+gravel. His purse and chain were found, but his watch and
+ring were gone. It appears from the evidence of Griffith
+Ellis, of Llanberis, who found part of the remains, that the
+deceased had fallen over the cliff of Clogwyn Coch, on Moel
+Cynghorion, while ascending from Llyn Cwellyn&mdash;that is,
+by the 'Snowdon Ranger' route.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 17.">&nbsp;[17]&nbsp;</a></p>
+
+<p>In 1859 a fatal accident took place near the eastern end
+of the ridge. The victim, George Henry Frodsham, a clerk
+in Liverpool, described as a young man of very fine physique,
+arrived at Llanberis on Saturday, August 13, accompanied
+by his cousin, F. A. Nicholson, and four friends, T. Clayhills,
+J. Snape, J. Goodiear, and A. Gardner. It was midnight,
+but they started off at once for Snowdon. They got as far
+as the 'half-way house,' where the proper path turns left,
+and up towards Cyrn Las; they, however, took the right-hand
+fork, which leads to the old copper level above Llyn
+du'r Arddu. Struggling up the rocks from the mine, Frodsham,
+encumbered by an umbrella and a bag, and being,
+moreover, in the dark, slipped and fell, unknown to his
+friends, who returned to the proper path and gained the
+summit. His cousin is said to have searched for him continuously
+from 4 <small>A.M.</small> on Sunday to 9 <small>P.M.</small> on Monday. At
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>6 <small>A.M.</small> on Tuesday the body was found by W. Owen; the
+skull was fractured both at the top and at the back, and the
+bag and umbrella were found 200 yards higher up, indicating
+that distance as the extent of his fall. A sapient jury
+drew from this sad event the moral that a guide should be
+employed as a safeguard against sudden mists; but few men
+need fear mists less than those who choose to climb when it
+is pitch dark. It may be said that this party neglected no
+precaution which is likely to ensure a fatal accident&mdash;inexperience,
+fatigue, darkness, difficult rocks, the burden of bags
+and umbrellas.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Llechog</b> (i.e. 'Flat, Slabby Place').&mdash;There are two
+ridges of this name on Snowdon; one is traversed by the
+ordinary route from Beddgelert and that from Rhyd-ddu,
+and is precipitous on its curving north front; the other
+forms the western wall of Cwm Glas Bach, and is traversed
+for some distance by the pony path from Llanberis. Towards
+the Llanberis Pass road it presents a fine rocky
+ridge, very steep and lofty, on which good climbing may
+here and there be found.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Moel Eilio</b> (2,382 ft.), less than three miles south-west
+of Llanberis station, has a namesake on the west side of the
+river Conway, not far from Llanrwst. The name is sometimes
+spelt Aeliau. The view from the top is extremely
+fine; the ascent is easy, and, as there is a railway on each
+side of it, access to the foot of it is very simple. The rockiest
+side is towards the east. Early in the century a poor little
+fellow named Closs, while trying to follow his mother from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>
+Bettws Garmon to Llanberis, was lost on this mountain.
+The story is told by H. L. Jones (1829) in his finely illustrated
+book, and by Wright (1833) and Bennett (1838). The
+last-named gives his epitaph.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Garnedd Goch Range.</b>&mdash;<b>Garnedd Goch</b> (2,315 ft.)
+(i.e. 'The Red Cairns') is a very rugged and unfrequented
+range of hills lying to the west of Beddgelert. The huge
+Nantlle slate quarries on the north side of it have spoilt
+some very pretty scenery and some very pretty climbs.
+Beddgelert and Snowdon Ranger are good starting-points,
+and better still is Penygroes station, on the line from Portmadoc
+to Carnarvon.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Moel Hebog</b> ('Hawk Hill,' 2,578 ft.) seems to have
+been ascended last century by Lord Lyttelton, by the
+Ordnance surveyors, and in August 1857 by Mr. J. H.
+Cliffe, who in his book (published 1860) gives a clear description
+of his ascent. In his opinion one of the cairns on
+the summit was then 'very ancient.'</p>
+
+<p>It is essentially a Beddgelert mountain, but can be conveniently
+taken from many other places at the cost of more
+time, as, for instance, from Snowdon Ranger on the north,
+Tremadoc and Criccieth on the south, and Brynkir station
+on the west.</p>
+
+<p>A man in the pink of condition who knows the way well
+can get to the top from Beddgelert in about three-quarters
+of an hour, but most people take 1&frac12; or 2 hours. The horizontal
+distance is under 2 miles, nearly the same as that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>
+from Wastdale Head to Scafell Pike; but the vertical height
+is less by one-quarter.</p>
+
+<p>The proper route is very simple. A shoulder runs down
+north-west on to the Carnarvon road, and the ridge of it,
+after being reached by proceeding due west from Beddgelert,
+is followed straight to the top. This shoulder may, of course,
+be used by those who approach from the Snowdon Ranger,
+but for them a better plan is to take, about &frac14; mile after
+passing the Pitt's Head, a road which continues on the
+right bank of the stream to Glan y Gors, a few yards beyond
+which a turning on the right leads across a side stream
+and past the farm of Hafod Ryffydd to the foot of Cwm
+Meillionen, and, by following either the cwm or the ridge
+on the left hand, the top of Moel Hebog is easily reached.</p>
+
+<p>The routes from Tremadoc, Criccieth, and Brynkir all
+take the dull side of the mountain; but this disadvantage
+is counterbalanced by the increased effect which this gives
+to the view of Snowdon on reaching the top, and to the
+peep down into the valley of Beddgelert, below. The most
+difficult way to hit off is that from Nantlle, but in point
+of rock scenery it is the finest of all, and was chosen
+by the Alpine Club for their excursion when they met here
+in 1883.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Mynydd Mawr</b> (i.e. 'Great Mountain') rises just opposite
+to and west of the Snowdon Ranger Inn.</p>
+
+<p>The noble crag Castell Cidwm (i.e. castle of the wolf or
+robber) runs steeply down to Llyn Cwellyn, and well deserves
+a visit. Borrow, on seeing it from the south, was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>
+reminded of Gibraltar. Craig y Bera also, which overhangs
+Drws y Coed, is part of this mountain, and has some very
+striking rock scenery.</p>
+
+
+<p>Denbigh.</p>
+
+<p>This county has little climbing. A few rocks near Bettws
+y Coed offer short climbs, which are more satisfactory than
+the limestone rocks of Orme's Head, near Llandudno, or of
+the Eglwyseg cliffs, near Llangollen; but we find in <b>Dinas
+Bran</b>, close by, an extremely steep, castle-crowned hill, and
+much favoured by picnickers. It seems, however, to have
+been the scene of some early climbing, made too, quite properly,
+with the rope.</p>
+
+<p>Leland says, 'Ther bredith in the Rok Side that the
+Castelle stondith on every yere an Egle. And the Egle doth
+sorely assaut hym that distroith the Nest goyng down in
+one Basket and having a nother over his Hedde to defend
+the sore Stripe of the Egle.'</p>
+
+<p>Under such circumstances a climber ought to find St.
+Paul a better patron saint than St. Martin.</p>
+
+
+<p>Montgomeryshire.</p>
+
+<p><b>Berwyn Mountains.</b>&mdash;The name is said to signify
+'White Tops' (Bera-gwen). The range runs parallel to the
+river Dee, forming its south bank for many miles. It is
+not lofty, Moel Sych (2,716 ft.) and Cader Fronwen
+(2,573 ft.) being the highest points. The individual hills
+are not of striking form, and are really little more than
+high heathery moors, on which large numbers of grouse
+breed, but there are many points on the south-east side<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>
+where small but striking rocks are found, chiefly about
+the heads of cwms hollowed out of the 'Llandeilo' and
+'Bala' strata. These cwms are occasionally visited for the
+sake of the waterfalls, two or three of which are exceedingly
+fine.</p>
+
+<p>The rocks at Llangynog would be remarkably good if
+they had not fallen a prey to the spoilers in the form of
+quarrymen.</p>
+
+
+<p>Merionethshire.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Merioneth mountains and shire Cardigan<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To travel over will tire horse and man,<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>says Taylor, the Water Poet, and, indeed, as a climbing
+county it is only second to Carnarvon, and contains such
+fine mountains as Cader Idris, the Arans, and the Rhinogs.
+The climbing capital is Dolgelly, though the excellent
+service of the Cambrian Railway makes it easy to scale
+almost any mountain from almost any place in the county.
+The reason of this is that all the places of resort are near
+the coast, and the mountains are not far inland, so that the
+railway following the coast puts them all in communication
+with each other, and it is almost equally convenient to stay
+at Barmouth, Harlech, Towyn, Aberdovey, or Machynlleth.
+Indeed, this is almost the only county where railways are
+cheerfully accepted by the mountaineer as friends and not
+as enemies. He does not love them at Bettws y Coed, he
+loathes them at Llanberis, but here they are unobtrusive and
+at the same time supremely useful.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Aberglaslyn.</b>&mdash;Through this beautiful defile lies the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>
+only correct approach to Snowdon. It is a true mountain
+scene, somehow suggesting Scotland rather than Wales, and
+of such beauty that, according to the story, three Cambridge
+dons, who went round Wales criticising nature and deducting
+marks for every defect, unanimously awarded full marks
+to this. There is fairly good practice climbing on both sides
+of it, but not very steep, in spite of the fears of some of the
+early travellers, who (like Hutton in 1803) thought the
+sides would close before they got through, and reached
+Beddgelert with a sense of relief.</p>
+
+<p>It was one of the earliest scenes in Wales which the taste
+of last century admitted to be picturesque. Sandby's view
+was taken about 120 years ago.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Cnicht</b> or <b>Cynicht</b> (2,265 ft.), <b>Moel Wyn</b> (2,529 ft.)&mdash;Mr.
+J. H. Cliffe ascended the former on September 4, 1857,
+and declared that he could only hear of one man who had
+preceded him (the climbing clergyman).</p>
+
+<p>Under certain aspects and conditions it is one of the
+most striking mountains in Wales, owing to its sharp, conical
+form, but it bears very little really good rock.</p>
+
+<p>Beddgelert is the best place from which to ascend, and if
+the old and higher road to Maentwrog be taken to &frac14; mile
+short of the tramway in Cwm Croesor, a ridge on the left
+hand can be followed right up to the peak without fear of
+mistake.</p>
+
+<p>If the ascent of Moel Wyn be included it adds less than an
+hour to the time taken by the last expedition. On the other
+hand, if Moel Wyn is ascended from Tanygrisiau, on the
+Ffestiniog line, it is equally easy to take in Cynicht.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Rhinog Fawr</b> (2,362 ft.&mdash;just north of Rhinog Fach)
+is one of the most striking of the rocky hills which rise
+behind Harlech. It is more visited than would otherwise be
+the case because the pretty lake of Cwm Bychan and the
+famous pass of Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, both places of considerable
+resort, lie at its feet, one on either side. It is one
+of the barest and most rocky mountains in all Wales, and
+yet it has hardly anywhere on it a crag of respectable height.
+Little nameless problems, however, abound, and men who
+are content to enjoy a day's promiscuous scrambling, without
+accomplishing any notorious climb about which they will
+afterwards be able to boast, may be recommended to ramble
+over Rhinog Fawr.</p>
+
+<p><i>Easy Ascents.</i>&mdash;Several stations on the Cambrian line are
+convenient for the start, especially Harlech and Llanbedr.
+Vehicles can be got in summer to take visitors to near Cwm
+Bychan (about 5 miles), from the east end of which to reach
+the top of the mountain requires a long hour, by way of the
+lakelet of Gloywlyn and up the western slope of the mountain.
+From Dolgelly the way is not so easy to find. Bwlch
+Drws Ardudwy, the pass between the two Rhinogs, is the
+first place to make for, and for this the best plan is to go by
+the Precipice Walk or by the Trawsfynydd highroad to the
+Camlan stream, which comes in on the left half a mile or
+more beyond Tynygroes Inn. A path follows the stream for
+nearly 3 miles to a slate quarry, which can also be reached
+rather more quickly by crossing the bridge at Penmaenpool,
+especially if the train be used as far as that station. Half a
+mile up the stream beyond the quarry the course leaves the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>
+brook and strikes away north-north-west round Rhinog Fach,
+rising as little as may be, so as to join the track up Bwlch
+Drws Ardudwy. From the head of the pass, rugged as it
+looks, a way may be picked northward to the east slope of
+the summit, but many people prefer to descend to the west
+a long way, so as to strike the easier south-western shoulder.
+A yet simpler route than the last, but, as involving 3 miles
+more of the hateful Trawsfynydd road, intolerable unless a
+carriage be taken, turns out of the route to the left half a
+mile beyond the ninth milestone, and makes for the north
+side of Rhinog Fawr. The path for nearly 3 miles is that
+which leads to Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, and is quitted just
+after passing through a wall. The stream on the right hand
+is now followed up to the pool at its head, until a turn to the
+left and south brings the pedestrian up on to the summit.
+This route may also be used from Trawsfynydd (where the
+Great Western have a station very useful for Ffestiniog on
+one side and Bala on the other), and there is no better place
+to start from if climbing is wanted, for of that there is plenty
+to be found in Craig Ddrwg, the ridge which stretches away
+to the north. In winter this range is very fine, but as stern
+and desolate as it is possible to imagine anything. The
+writer has reason to remember that here, in January 1895,
+he experienced the most intense cold that he has met with
+in Great Britain.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Arenig Fawr</b> (2,800 ft.) is called 'Rennig' by Daines
+Barrington, who, writing in 1771, adds that it 'is commonly
+considered as the fifth mountain of North Wales in point of
+height.'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The ascent from Arenig station, on the Great Western
+Railway, between Bala and Ffestiniog, is very easy, as the
+rise is only 1,700 ft., and the distance about 1&frac34; mile.
+The usual and most expeditious way of making the ascent
+is by proceeding westward from the station for &frac14; mile to
+the farm of Milltergerrig, but for scenery and for climbing
+an opposite direction should be taken for nearly a mile, till
+the stream is struck which issues from Llyn Arenig, really a
+very fine tarn and backed by most respectable cliffs. Further
+south than the tarn again good rocks will be found. The
+usual, and indeed the proper, way of dealing with this mountain
+is to traverse it from north to south, ending up at
+Llanuwchllyn station, on the Great Western line from Bala to
+Dolgelly. The eastward view is extremely fine, and superior
+by far to that from many of the highest points in Wales.</p>
+
+<p>This was one of our earliest mountain meteorological
+stations, as it was here that the Hon. Daines Barrington
+conducted his experiments on rainfall in 1771.<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 18.">&nbsp;[18]&nbsp;</a></p>
+
+<p>Its height, too, was measured, as Pennant (1781) tells us,
+by Mr. Meredith Hughes, a surveyor of Bala.</p>
+
+<p>One of the ancient Welsh writers mentions this mountain
+in a most contemptuous manner. Borrow alludes to this, and
+remarks that upon him, on the contrary, none of all the hills
+which he saw in Wales made a greater impression.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>The Arans.</b>&mdash;This mountain is the highest in Merionethshire,
+and by many wrongly considered the second highest
+in Wales. It lies between the Berwyns and Cader Idris.</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p>
+<p>Like the latter, it is of volcanic trap rock, heavily speckled
+in parts with quartz, and exposed on the east side, where it
+has been subjected to much weathering. There is a good
+deal of old <i>d&eacute;bris</i> from the face, that is now grass-covered.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_109.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_109_s.jpg" width="400" height="450" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+</div>
+
+<p>The road between the Aran and the outlying hills of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>
+Berwyn is over 1,900 ft. high; we have, however, to descend
+to 860 ft. in passing from the Aran to Cader Idris. The
+main ridge runs almost exactly north and south for 6 miles,
+its west side&mdash;a large tract of marshy moorland&mdash;sloping
+down gently to the vales of Dyfrdwy (= the goddess's water;
+sometimes called the Little Dee) and Wnion, and its east side,
+irregularly escarped, falling for the most part very rapidly
+for the first thousand feet. Its ridge culminates in two peaks
+1&frac12; mile apart, Aran Benllyn (2,902 ft.) and Aran Fawddwy
+(2,970 ft.) The word <i>Aran</i> means an 'alp,' or a 'high place;'
+<i>Mawdd</i> is said to mean 'spreading,' and the terminations
+<i>ach</i> or <i>wy</i> mean 'water.'</p>
+
+<p><i>Aran Benllyn</i> was one of several of which the height was
+measured in Pennant's time by 'the ingenious Mr. Meredith
+Hughes, of Bala,' who made it out to be 30 yards less than
+Cader Idris.</p>
+
+<p>In April 1881 the Alpine Club had one of their informal
+meetings at Bala, and chose the east front of the Aran as
+their route from there to Dolgelly.</p>
+
+<p>The ordinary ascents of the Aran are effected from
+Llanuwchllyn in 2 hours, from Drws y Nant in 1&frac14; hour, and
+from Dinas Mawddwy in about 3 hours.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rock Climbs.</i>&mdash;These are never extensive, though there
+are many little pieces that require much ingenuity to surmount.
+Excepting for a few boulder climbs on the ridge
+itself the crag work is confined to the east face of the
+mountains, the side overlooking Lliwbran and Craiglyn Dyfi.
+Climbers are often asked, where can a man start practising
+rock work? The Arans are first-rate for this. Whatever the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>
+difficulty on the mountain a few minutes' traversing will
+generally take one out of it, if direct ascent or descent be considered
+undesirable. The mountain face is so broken up that
+we have no gullies or ar&ecirc;tes separated by impossible walls of
+rock from the easy parts of the mountain. In short, from the
+enthusiastic shin-scraper's point of view the architecture of
+the Aran face is defective.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>a</i>) <i>From Lliwbran.</i>&mdash;The rocks rising from Lliwbran
+are columnar in structure, and by the time a generation of
+climbers have torn away the grass from the holds they will
+show up plenty of neat little problems from 50 to 100 ft.
+high.</p>
+
+<p>Looking up from the lake the crag, which is a high
+dependence of Aran Benllyn, shows on the right an almost
+unrelieved slabbiness at an easy angle, which gives good
+practice in small footholds. Up to the centre of the crag is
+a steep grass gully, in a line with a large boulder down near
+the lake, with an overhanging wall that blocks the direct
+ascent of the gully, and with a fine clean-cut buttress on the
+left. We may creep up the corner of the wall on the left, or
+circumvent it by traversing round to the right.</p>
+
+<p>The route to the ridge from the big boulder is easiest
+up an oblique gully just invisible from it. Between our
+crag and the summit of the Benllyn is an easy walk due east
+down to the green shoulder south of Lliwbran, that takes us
+quickly by Nant y Barcud and Cwm Croes to the Twrch
+valley and the main road. This descent to Llannwchllyn,
+though not direct, recommends itself in wet or misty
+weather, and is in any case worth taking as a variant. Aran<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>
+Benllyn itself offers nothing on its broken escarpments;
+though the face shows up rather well in profile from a
+distance, the climber need scarcely use his hands in zigzagging
+up the face to the cairn. The view from the summit
+justifies our traversing the peak on the way to Aran
+Fawddwy. It includes the length of Bala lake and a goodly
+extent of Llyn Fyrnwy, and the outline of Aran Fawddwy
+shows up magnificently.</p>
+
+<p>Passing along the ridge to the south of Benllyn we keep
+up at a high level for the whole distance of 1&frac12; mile to Aran
+Fawddwy, the greatest depression being less than 250 ft.
+below Benllyn. If we bear to the left, just dipping below
+the ridge, we pass along the foot of an overhanging mass of
+rock of considerable length that is undercut in a remarkable
+fashion. There are many places along it where one may
+shelter comfortably in bad weather. It is difficult to climb
+up the rock direct, but towards its south extremity we may
+work up into a small cave and climb out by the left on to the
+ridge again.</p>
+
+<p>Five minutes then bring us to a fine cairn that marks
+an easy descent to Craiglyn Dyfi, the source of the Dyfi
+river, with a good view of the best rocks on Aran Fawddwy.
+The final ascent of this peak begins after a few feet of
+descent to a wall that crosses the ridge at its lowest.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>On Craiglyn Dyfi.</i>&mdash;A small terrace at about the
+level of the wall just referred to leads round the rocks to
+the left into a large scree gully, which offers good sport in
+snowy weather. Half-way along this terrace is a 'problem'
+of unusual severity&mdash;a narrow crack in an overhanging face,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>
+with very scanty hand-holds where the crack closes, some
+20 ft. up the face. The pleasantest bit of scrambling is on
+to the summit of Aran Fawddwy from the lake, by the ar&ecirc;te
+that is seen in outline from the large cairn on the ridge,
+from which point the two vertical portions of the ar&ecirc;te are
+well marked. It can be reached easily from the lake, or
+we may descend from the cairn for some 600 ft., and then
+traverse across to the south till a small gully is passed that
+shows a cave pitch at its lower extremity. The rock ar&ecirc;te
+forms the south side of this gully and runs up for 400 ft. It
+reminds us of the easy climb up Tryfaen from the Glyder
+side, though in one or two places we have difficulties here,
+whereas there are none on the Tryfaen scramble.</p>
+
+<p>It begins below the level of the cave, and after passing
+over rough rocks at an easy angle we come to a fine wall
+with a wide crack up it on the left. A huge splintered
+block is fixed in the lower part of the crack, and we may
+surmount the block and just squeeze in, passing out on to
+the roof. There are one or two variations possible here.
+In fact, instead of starting on the ar&ecirc;te we might pass up
+the gully to the cave. It has mossy walls and a dripping
+interior. It is marked by a small pile of stones on the
+right and a well-bleached sheep's skeleton in the gully just
+above. The pitch may be taken on the left by steep wet
+grass, which is unpleasant, or we can attack it direct. We
+go well inside, and with back to the right we find good
+holds on the left, thus working up until the roof itself offers
+hold for both hands. From here it is best to pass on to the
+ar&ecirc;te a few feet below the crack above described.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The way is then easy, but interesting, and leads to a
+straight-up crack in a wall in front of us that has to be
+negotiated. It looks severe, but the surface of the rock is
+so rough that no real trouble is experienced with it. The
+crack is much more formidable to descend. Shortly after
+this we find ourselves out on the open face again, the gully
+on the left having disappeared, and only a few crags above
+us marking the summit of the mountain. Striking directly
+upwards we reach the top in a quarter of an hour, the last
+25 ft. being, if we choose, by way of a chimney, that begins
+with some difficulty and lands us just to the left of the large
+cairn that marks the highest point.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>c</i>) <i>By Llaithnant.</i>&mdash;Passing due south of the Aran
+Fawddwy cairn, along the route to Dinas, we see a fine rock
+in front between us and the near end of the Dyrysgol ridge,
+forming the head of Llaithnant. It is marked by an overhanging
+rock half-way down the left-hand ridge. A steep
+and wet scree gully leads down to the valley, and we may
+go part of the way down until we are about 100 ft. below
+the overhanging block.</p>
+
+<p>Here we can strike across to the ar&ecirc;te, and keeping
+close to the gully on our right have 250 ft. of fairly good
+scrambling. We skirt close under the big boulder, and
+passing to the right of it (a traverse can also be managed
+on the left, lower down) clamber over rather loose rock to
+the grass terrace above the pitch. Then good rock follows,
+and bearing towards the right we come in sight of a square-walled
+chimney overlooking the main gully, marked by
+small cairns at top and bottom. Its holds are all on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>
+left, so we back up on the right and find ourselves close to
+the main ridge again. Another chimney still further to the
+right might be taken, but it is always very wet; the two
+pitches in it are both very small, and it is only interesting
+when ice is about.</p>
+
+<p>A grass gully separates our ar&ecirc;te from a few rocks nearer
+Dyrysgol, which are of basaltic character and rather interesting
+to descend.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Cader Idris.</b>&mdash;The name ('Chair of Idris') includes the
+whole mountain range, some 7 miles long, that separates the
+Mawddach from the Dysynni. It is a continuation of the
+outcrop of volcanic trap rock that stretches from the Arans
+down to Cardigan Bay, and, as usual with such mountains,
+its volcanic origin has had much to do with its grand
+scenery.</p>
+
+<p>The range runs in an E.N.E. direction from the sea
+south of Barmouth, and reaches its greatest elevation at
+Pen y Gader (2,929 ft.) It forms two other noteworthy
+peaks on the chain, Tyrran Mawr (2,600 ft.), 2 miles to the
+south-west, and Mynydd Moel (2,800 ft.), 1&frac12; mile to the
+north-east.</p>
+
+<p>The north side presents a fairly even front of precipitous
+rock for 3&frac12; miles. Near the highest point, however, a huge
+amphitheatre of rock, a thousand feet in height, suggesting
+a volcanic crater half fallen away, breaks the continuity of
+the ridge, and contributes the finest bit of mountain scenery
+that this side of Cader can offer. Probably this hollow suggested
+first the name of 'Cader,' though there is a recess on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>
+the summit ridge that is usually taken to be the seat in
+question.</p>
+
+<p>But the mountain can show something even better on
+the south side. Its high dependency Mynydd Pencoed joins
+the main ridge almost at the summit of Pen y Gader, and
+its extremity Craig y Cae forms with Cader itself another
+crater-like hollow, which, with Llyn y Cae lying at the foot
+of the crags, is even wilder and more magnificent than the
+one on the north side. Excepting the crags in this cwm the
+south side of Cader consists of steep grass slopes, and the
+general aspect of the mountain is uninteresting.</p>
+
+<p>An account is published in the <i>Gentleman's Magazine</i>
+(vol. xxxviii. p. 147) of an ascent of the mountain in 1767 by
+L. N.</p>
+
+<p>Cader Idris was also climbed in 1863 by Prince Arthur.</p>
+
+<p>Several members of the Alpine Club worked their way up
+the direct route from Llyn y Gader in 1881, and there is
+some mention in the <i>Alpine Journal</i> (vol. xii.) of a few
+ascents by Mr. H. Willink.</p>
+
+<p>The gullies along the north face of the mountain were
+explored for many years by F. H. B.</p>
+
+<p>The wandering Borrow wordily describes a night adventure
+on Cader Idris. A pleasantly-written chapter on it may
+be found in Paterson's <i>Mountaineering Below the Snow
+Line</i>, and just recently an article has appeared on the same
+subject in the <i>Scottish Mountaineering Journal</i>. This latter
+article has a good general view of the whole length of the
+north face.</p>
+
+<p>On the north face, between Pen y Gader and Cyfrwy, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>
+tailor named Smith, of Newport, met his death by a fall from
+the crags in 1864. His body was not found until the following
+spring.</p>
+
+<p>There is another Pen y Gader in South Wales, the highest
+point in the Black Forest of Carmarthen (2,630 ft.); also
+between Y Foel Fras and the Conway River a hill goes by
+the same name.</p>
+
+<p>The ordinary excursions up the mountain are made from
+Dolgelly, by the Foxes' Path, in 2&frac14; hours; by the Bridle
+Path, in 2&frac34; hours, or by Mynydd Moel in 3 hours; from
+Arthog, easily reached by train from Barmouth, in 3 hours;
+from Tal y Llyn in 2 hours; and from Towyn in 4 hours.</p>
+
+<p>The walk up from Towyn is by the Dysynni valley and
+the <i>Bird Rock</i>. This has a very bold and steep front, broken
+up by narrow ledges. It can be ascended with different
+degrees of ease, and is worth climbing for the view. The
+rock is named from its usual frequenters, the kite, hawk, and
+cormorant showing up in large numbers on the face.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rock Climbs.</i>&mdash;(<i>a</i>) <i>On Mynydd Moel.</i>&mdash;These are all fairly
+easy in dry weather, and are worth exploring on a slack day.
+Standing at the eastern corner of the little square Llyn Aran,
+we notice the highest point of Mynydd Moel to the west. A
+fine-looking ar&ecirc;te leads up to it from the north, with a well-marked
+pinnacle apparently half-way up the climb. This we
+shall call the north ridge. A prominent pillar of unusual
+steepness is seen to our left, reaching to the height of the
+Ceu Graig ridge. Its eastern side is cut into by a narrow
+gully that seems from below to pass behind the pillar.</p>
+
+<p>To the right of the Ceu Graig pillar is seen another<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>
+gully, looking steep but grassy; it is found to offer a
+pleasant route on to the ridge. Above the upper screes at
+the foot of the higher crags several ascents may be planned
+from below. The best is marked by two oblique chimneys
+that start upwards to the left. Between this and the north
+ridge a large scree gully leads up to the highest part of the
+mountain, and from it on the right several short scrambles
+on good slabby rocks are obtainable.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_118.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_118_s.jpg" width="400" height="199" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">CRAIG ADERYN (BIRD ROCK)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The first of the Ceu Graig gullies, counting from left to
+right, is to the left of the pillar, and takes three-quarters of an
+hour to ascend from the lake. It starts with a water slide that
+we take on the right, and we pass back into the gully immediately
+afterwards. Then the ascent of an easy chimney makes
+us a little wet if the weather has been rainy, and a pitch appears
+just above. This can be taken on the right or left. The
+right-hand route gives us wet rocks; the left leads up a side
+chimney, and back into the gully by an awkward grass<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>
+traverse. After this the gully divides, and leads us to the
+neck that joins on to the pillar on our right.</p>
+
+<p>The steep outside face of the pillar can be ascended, but
+is rather dangerous. It is a sample of mantelpiece climbing,
+but the holds are mostly of grass and heather, and some of
+the steps are long.</p>
+
+<p>The next gully, a short distance to the right of the pillar,
+is more open than the first, and is less steep. Some water
+is generally coming down. The first obstacle is a wide
+cavern, that can be mounted immediately to the left or
+avoided by passing up the easy open chimney on that side of
+the gully. The second is a waterfall, and that also is by
+preference passed on the left; the difficulty finishes with a
+short corkscrew chimney. From this we emerge on to the
+open face of the mountain, and a few feet of good rock bring
+us to the main ridge. We are now at about the level of the
+upper limit of scree on the Mynydd Moel face, and a traverse
+can be effected round to the oblique chimney already referred
+to. In doing so we pass first a scree gully and then an
+inviting cleft up to the left, but this is found to lose its
+interest after the first 20 ft.</p>
+
+<p>The oblique chimneys can be recommended for beginners,
+as the climbing is only about 250 ft.; the rocks are
+very good, and the angle about 45&deg;. Water comes down the
+gully, but does not offer any trouble, except, perhaps, at the
+first obstacle. If this is taken direct we climb up the right
+wall, which overhangs, and cling sufficiently close to permit
+the water to pass behind us. The second pitch is taken on
+the right, the rock being so much undercut that we can pass<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>behind the water. After this a little more scrambling leads
+to a scree and an easy finish.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a href="images/i_120.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_120_s.jpg" width="600" height="427" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">SKETCH MAP OF
+
+CADER IDRIS</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The north ridge is somewhat disappointing. It works
+well up to the pinnacle, which may also be approached by a
+dilapidated chimney on the left. But just above this, where
+another ridge joins from the north-west, it becomes a mere
+walk along the edge of a cliff.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the neatest way of descending this cliff is by a
+very narrow vertical chimney, marked at top and bottom by
+small piles of stones, a little to the north of the big scree
+gully, and close to the highest point of Mynydd Moel.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>West of Mynydd Moel.</i>&mdash;Here the north cliff is very
+much broken. There are innumerable scree gullies up the
+face, but the rock ridges in between them have no good
+features. There are one or two pinnacles just below the
+ridge, easy to reach from above, but difficult from below.
+One especially is worth a scramble, about 5 minutes' walk
+from Mynydd Moel; a thin and uncommonly difficult chimney
+leads up its outside face.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>c</i>) <i>On Pen y Gader.</i>&mdash;The central gully up Pen y Gader
+is a prominent feature of this face of the mountain. It was
+climbed many years ago, but no definite account of its early
+history has been obtained. It is in three obvious portions,
+as indicated in the illustration, and is generally wet. The
+two shelves that divide the climb stretch obliquely upwards
+to the right across the whole face, and may be reached in a
+great variety of ways. Nevertheless the only good climbing
+is in the two lower portions of the main gully.</p>
+
+<p>The first piece takes us on to the shelf with about 70 ft.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>
+of climbing. The gully narrows considerably, and we are
+forced on to the right-hand side and up a steep and smooth
+slope of water-worn rock. Then we cross over the water to
+the left, and effect an easy exit on to the ledge. We next
+scramble over some irregular blocks and into a narrow recess
+at the foot of the second pitch. This is a narrow chimney,
+very pleasant in dry weather, landing us in 50 ft. on to the
+second ledge. From here the ground is more open, and the
+climbing is of a slight character to the summit, except in
+winter, when the whole gully is apt to be heavily glazed.
+Under such circumstances the lowest pitch is almost
+dangerous.</p>
+
+<p>The first pitch may be varied by striking up from the
+screes a few yards to the left of the main gully, by the cleft
+shown in the illustration. The second can be quitted altogether,
+and the columnar rocks to the west taken in a variety
+of ways; and all along the upper corridor will be found short
+pitches leading to the summit ridge.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>d</i>) <i>On Cyfrwy.</i>&mdash;There are two well-defined ar&ecirc;tes leading
+up close to the summit of Cyfrwy. The first <i>a a</i> is in an
+easterly direction, and may be seen in profile from the direction
+of Pen y Gader. This is easily recognisable by the curious
+truncated pinnacle or tower some way up. The second
+bears up from the north, and also shows a pinnacle, but of
+smaller dimensions. Beyond the two ar&ecirc;tes the climbing on
+Cyfrwy is inferior, but between them there are a few interesting
+routes up the crags.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 578px;">
+<a href="images/i_123.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_123_s.jpg" width="578" height="365" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">CADER IDRIS
+
+(seen across Llyn y Gader)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The terrace <i>e e</i> is easily reached from the screes. From it
+there are two definite climbs, one <i>b b</i> up a gully to the left, that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>leads out on to the east ar&ecirc;te, the other <i>c c</i> up a more open
+gully that passes to the summit ridge. It is possible that the
+notch between the great tower and the east ar&ecirc;te can be
+reached from this side, but the upper part looks difficult.</p>
+
+<p>The east ar&ecirc;te was climbed in about 1888 by the writer.
+The first recorded ascent was in January 1891 (H. K.,
+W. E. S., and O. G. J.), and the first ascent by a lady in
+August 1891 (Miss L. G., K. W. D., and O. G. J.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_124.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_124_s.jpg" width="400" height="242" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">THE CYFRWY CLIMBS, FROM THE NORTH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It can be followed all the way up. The tower is best
+turned on the right, and the vertical wall of 40 ft. that
+immediately follows is climbed direct from the little gap,
+with just a slight divergence to the left. The only serious
+difficulty on the ar&ecirc;te is a wall of rock 100 ft. higher up. It
+can be surmounted by a thin cleft, the jammed stones in
+which are unsafe; or by working up the face a little to the
+left. The situation is very exposed. This, and any other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>
+bad bits, can generally be avoided by climbing down to the
+scree gully on our left. Near the top of the ar&ecirc;te we pass<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>
+the exit of the chimney <i>b b</i>, which descends steeply to the
+right.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_125.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_125_s.jpg" width="400" height="472" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">CYFRWY AR&Ecirc;TES
+
+(The northern is seen in profile, the eastern is much foreshortened)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The north ar&ecirc;te has probably not been climbed, but the
+gullies on each side have been taken. They call for no
+special comment. The one to the right is worth ascending
+for the view of the fine rocks on this face. It is mostly scree
+with a small pitch near the top, and was once marked above
+by a little cairn. It is admirable when hard snow is about.</p>
+
+<p>The gully <i>c c</i> to the left is very open and risky, consisting
+of a series of shelves formed by the falling away of the
+porphyritic pillars that characterise the face.</p>
+
+<p>The climb <i>b b</i> is rather better. The scrambling from the
+terrace is easy but steep, until a large overhanging boulder
+entirely blocks the way. We then climb up the vertical wall
+on the left and traverse back to the gully. It finishes very
+abruptly on the narrow upper ridge of the east ar&ecirc;te, and
+in a most unexpected way we find ourselves looking down
+to Llyn y Gader with the face of Pen y Gader directly
+opposite.</p>
+
+<p>There are a few short climbs on the face of Tyrrau Mawr,
+but nothing very definite can be picked out.</p>
+
+<p>(<i>e</i>) <i>On Craig y Cae.</i>&mdash;The great gully of Mynydd Pencoed
+was climbed for the first time on May 18, 1895 (W. P. H. S.,
+E. L. W. H. S., and O. G. J.) It is by far the finest climb
+in the Cader district; the work in it is as varied as in any of
+the more familiar gullies in the neighbourhood of Snowdon,
+and the rock scenery in its upper portion can scarcely be
+surpassed on British soil. The upper part of the gully
+attracted the attention of the writer in 1890, but it was not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>
+until April 1895 that he made any attempt to enter the
+gully at its lower extremity. Then he succeeded in forcing
+his way over the first pitch, but the great rush of water
+coming down the gully made the second pitch impossible,
+and the untimely fracture of an ice axe prompted a temporary
+withdrawal.</p>
+
+<p>On the day when the successful attempt was made the
+rocks were unusually dry. In wet weather the difficulties of
+the climb are likely to be very much increased, more especially
+in the narrower pitches, where the route chosen by
+the climber is identical in position with that chosen by
+the water, though opposite in direction so long as valour
+needs diluting down to discretion. It seems probable that
+grass traverses may be found to circumvent the lower pitches.
+The first and second, for example, may be avoided by traversing
+into the gully from the left, over the grassy buttress
+that supports the Pencoed Pillar. The third pitch may be
+passed immediately on the left, if one treats the loose soil
+with due consideration. The fourth and fifth seem from
+above to permit an alternative route up to the right, over
+steep grass and back to the gully by a treacherous-looking
+upward traverse to the left. From here the three remaining
+pitches directly up the gully offer the simplest solution to
+the rest of the problem; variations to the left and right
+have been freely suggested, but are still untested.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a href="images/i_128.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_128_s.jpg" width="600" height="316" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">LLYN Y CAE (OR CAU) AND CRAIG Y CAE (FROM CADER IDRIS)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The climbing starts within 200 ft. of the level of Llyn y
+Cae, with a short pitch some 12 ft. high, marked above by a
+cairn of stones. The second pitch begins almost immediately,
+and must be taken direct, the roof of the cave in its upper<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>portion to be approached by a serpentine squirm of the body
+after the cave is entered, up the thin crack on the right.
+The third pitch is ferocious in aspect, but uncertain in
+action, on account of the poor quality of its material. It
+consists of a large cavern with a pendulous mass of brittle
+rock hanging down from the roof somewhat to the left.
+The cavern is penetrated as far as possible on this side, and
+then, with back to the hanging rock and feet on a hold
+invisible from below, a passage may be effected outwards to
+the firm hand-holds in the open. A jammed stone with
+d&eacute;bris attached, in the most handy situation at the corner of
+the exit, is best left alone.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after this we approach a long narrow chimney close
+to the left wall of the gully. It is about 35 ft. in length, and
+the upper part gives trouble. But a very fine foothold some
+12 ft. up gives breathing space for the final portion. Then
+the interest ceases for a while, as we mount some 130 ft. of
+scree and smooth rocky slabs at an easy angle. This is an excellent
+arrangement, for the fifth pitch, that now comes on, is
+likely to demand all our powers of admiration for a while.</p>
+
+<p>It consists of a cavern divided by two steep buttresses into
+three parts, side by side, the middle one being most open to
+inspection but most difficult to approach directly. Immediately
+above the left-hand portion a vertical chimney rises
+some 40 ft., its lower end projecting well over the cave and
+manifesting no direct route of approach from below. To get
+to the foot of this chimney is the chief difficulty. The method
+adopted was rather intricate, and probably permitted much
+improvement. It has, however, the advantage that the leader<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>
+need not climb straight away the full 80 or 90 ft. without a halt.
+He first penetrates as far as possible into the cave on the left,
+until the roof bars further progress. Then he traverses over
+a dangerously smooth and wet slab, with no perceptible foothold,
+to the middle portion of the cavern. From here he
+works upwards and outwards until with a long stride he
+steps out on to a little ledge on the right wall of the gully.
+Here a hole through a large block enables him to manipulate
+the rope with safety, and the second man can join him.
+The second may reach the terrace more directly, if the rope
+is available, by working directly up the middle of the gully
+till the level of the ledge is reached; but the climbing is
+very uncertain, on account of the treacherous footholds.
+From the ledge the leader passes back across the centre
+and over a notched curtain of rock into the upper chimney.
+Here there is no doubt as to the route; a resting-place is
+afforded for a moment by a little cave, through the roof of
+which only the thinnest can hope to wriggle. The edge of
+this roof is mounted on the right, and a few feet higher a
+jammed block that dominates the pitch is turned on the right,
+up some rather treacherous grass that needs very careful
+treatment. The writer would like to add a word of advice
+to this already lengthy description of the pitch. Don't
+attempt to qualify for the through route of the little cave by
+slipping downwards and jamming in the chimney.</p>
+
+<p>The three remaining pitches are short and near together,
+the last one finishing a few feet below the summit of the
+ridge, some 850 ft. above the lake.</p>
+
+<p><i>East Gully.</i>&mdash;The gully immediately to the east of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>
+Pencoed Pillar was first climbed on May 19, 1895 (W. P. H. S.,
+W. E. S., and O. G. J.) As seen from the opposite shores
+of the lake it presents a striking appearance, the middle part
+looking very difficult. It starts higher up the face than the
+western climb (about 440 ft. above the lake), and finishes on
+the ridge at a somewhat lower level than the top of the latter
+(870 ft. above lake). Thus the climbing is much reduced, and
+the whole ascent can be accomplished in an hour by a party
+of three. The scrambling in it is almost continuous, and
+towards the middle, where the rock walls close in the gully,
+the route is very steep, though none of the pitches are severe.</p>
+
+<p>We begin with oblique slabs of rock rather inclined to be
+wet. Then the direct route lies over a block of rock with
+uncertain holds, but a cleft to the left promises much better,
+and a traverse at the top leads back easily to the gully again.
+The scrambling is very pleasant where the right wall begins
+to overhang, and remains interesting till the gully divides.
+From here screes lead up each part to the crest of the ridge,
+but a small rock ar&ecirc;te separating the two branches give us
+climbing all the way.</p>
+
+<p>Still more to the east is a shorter gully, composed for the
+most part of scree, that can be taken in 20 minutes. It has
+two pitches, the upper one requiring a rope. The first is
+taken up on either side, and is only about 12 ft. high. The
+second is a cave pitch with a very fine interior. The ascent
+is effected by backing up the rather loose walls of the cave,
+and then bearing out to the left and over the obstacle. From
+here to the summit is nothing but scree. The gully is
+afflicted with the near neighbourhood of badly weathered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>
+rocks, and shows signs of having been quite recently bombarded
+from the crags on the left.</p>
+
+<p>These three gullies on Mynydd Pencoed represent all the
+climbing that has as yet been attempted on the south side
+of Cader. It is much to be hoped that a few interesting
+routes will yet be found between the pillar and the small col
+that represents the lowest portion of Craig y Cau, and the
+account of what has been done may induce others to visit
+this unfrequented region. To the same end it might be
+advisable to throw out the remark that the Pencoed Pillar,
+some 700 ft. high, looks quite inaccessible from the grassy
+buttress at its foot.</p>
+
+
+<p>South Wales.</p>
+
+<p>It is scarcely worth while to enumerate the southern
+counties, as all alike are destitute of climbs, except upon the
+sea cliffs. Some of these are remarkably bold and picturesque,
+especially about Lydstep (Tenby) and St. David's Head;
+but they cannot compare in any way with those of Ireland,
+and least of all for climbing purposes, being mainly of limestone.
+Just north of Aberystwith are some highly curious
+rocks, giving a climb or two. Some twenty years ago a
+schoolboy was killed by falling from them.</p>
+
+<p>Of the inland rocks it will be sufficient to mention a
+few.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 577px;">
+<a href="images/i_133.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_133_s.jpg" width="577" height="311" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">CLIFFS NEAR LYDSTEP (TENBY)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><b>The Brecon Beacons</b> (2,910 ft.), in Brecknockshire
+(which name the travellers of old, with some justice, modified
+to 'Breakneckshire'), are sandstone peaks of very striking
+outline. Indeed, Mackintosh (who saw them from the east)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>says, 'I was more impressed than I have been with any
+mountain in Wales. Their outline excited a very unusual
+idea of sublimity.'</p>
+
+<p>Brecon is the best starting-point, and it is a good plan,
+though by no means necessary, to drive to the Storey Arms
+inn (1,400 ft.), eight miles towards Merthyr, or to go by train
+to Torpantau, and thus avoid walking over any part of the
+way twice.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_134.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_134_s.jpg" width="400" height="264" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">CLIFFS NORTH OF ABERYSTWITH</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The way is easy, and easily found; but a wary eye
+should be kept upon the streams, which in this part of
+Wales are surprisingly rapid and copious.</p>
+
+<p>A curious notion once prevailed that nothing would fall
+from the top of this hill. Many years ago an unfortunate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>
+picnicker disproved this. See the <i>Times Index</i>, but the
+statement there made that he fell 12,000 ft. is somewhat
+startling.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>The Black Mountains</b>, a wide stretch of charming
+hill-walking, have little to attract the mere climber, nor will
+he find much on such hills as the bastion-like <b>Blorenge</b>
+(1,720 ft.), in spite of their possessing caps of 'mill-stone
+grit.'</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Plynlimon</b> (2,469 ft.) is seldom mentioned except with
+derision.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Beauties of Wales</i> (1818) does indeed speak of 'the
+towering summit which bears the name of Plinlimmon,'
+and quotes the equally appropriate description given by
+Philips&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i6">That cloud-piercing hill<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Plinlimmon from afar the traveller kens,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Astonished how the goats their shrubby browse<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Gnaw pendent.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But, in truth, the great difficulty which travellers have,
+whether far or near, is to ken it at all; and many of them
+have vented their disappointment in words of bitter scorn.</p>
+
+<p>Pennant (1770) candidly admits that he never saw it,
+which is easily understood, for the mountain is neither easy
+to see nor worth looking at when seen. The ascent is a
+protracted bog-walk. It was made in 1767<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 19.">&nbsp;[19]&nbsp;</a> by L. N., but
+Taylor, the Water Poet (1652), sensibly calls it</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i8">Tall Plinillimon,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Which I no stomach had to tread upon.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span></p>
+<p>An amusing notice used to be seen at Steddfa Gurig
+(then an inn), 2&frac12; miles south of the summit, and 13&frac14; miles by
+road from Llanidloes: 'The notorious hill Plinlimon is on
+the premises.' This place, being 1,358 ft. above the sea, is
+the best starting-point for the ascent of the mountain, and
+coaches run past it from Llanidloes.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Aberedw Rocks</b> are fairly typical of the kind of
+climbing which is to be found in South Wales. The rocks
+being quite close to the station of that name on the Cambrian
+Railway, are brought within easy reach of Rhayader
+and Builth Wells on the north and of Brecon on the south.
+Three or four rock terraces, 15 to 20 ft. high, break the slope
+of the hill beside the railway, and a sort of rocky cove penetrates
+it as well. Bits here and there are not unlike the
+'chimneys' on Slieve League, but the material is more
+friable, resembling loose walls of very inferior slaty fragments.
+A few harder masses stand out picturesquely as
+small pinnacles, especially in the cove, near the head of
+which a lofty bulging piece of rock has a vertical rift in it,
+which for a few feet offers quite a difficult climb.</p>
+
+<p>The river <b>Edw</b> (close by) has extremely steep, cliff-like
+banks, and these are a common feature in other tributaries
+of the Wye. The <b>Bachwy</b>, for instance, has a gorge which,
+seen as the writer has seen it during a winter flood, is profoundly
+impressive. Malkin's description (1804) should not
+be missed. He found 'rudely-shaped eccentricities of
+nature, with all the mysterious gloom of vulgar and traditional
+ascription,' 'dwarfishly fructified rock,' 'features all
+of a revolting cast,' and 'a prospect rude and unchastised.'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The <b>Irvon</b>, again, has sides so rocky as to be chosen by
+the falcon for nesting.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Cwm Elan</b>, 5 or 6 miles from Rhyader, is a very
+pretty spot, and the gorge of Cefn Coch is exceedingly
+striking. Mackintosh says that the height is not less than
+800 ft., and the cliffs are in many parts mural and quite
+perpendicular. He declared that, while the cliffs on the left-hand
+side of the river are very fine, he had seen nothing to
+surpass those on the right. This from a hill traveller of his
+experience is remarkably high praise. The writer has only
+visited these rocks once, and has never attempted to climb
+there, nor, indeed, has he ever heard of anyone else doing so.
+The Birmingham reservoir is to submerge several miles of
+this cwm and the two houses in which Shelley stayed.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Stanner Rocks</b> are quite near the station of the same
+name on the branch of the Great Western from Leominster
+to New Radnor, and on the north side of the railway. The
+material of which they are composed is superior for climbing
+purposes to the soft shaly stuff so common in South Wales,
+being the same eruptive trap rock which forms the hills of
+Hunter, Worsel, and Old Radnor, and has metamorphosed
+the surrounding limestone. These rocks narrowly miss
+being a good climb. The train from Leominster takes about
+50 minutes.</p>
+
+<p>Near New Radnor is a precipice down which Cliffe
+(1854) mentions that a gentleman rode, and he also records
+that another climbed the fall called <i>Waterbreakitsneck</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>IRELAND</h2>
+
+
+<p><b>Introduction.</b>&mdash;Climbing in Ireland, in the sense in
+which it is understood in Switzerland, is, of course, unknown,
+although during a winter of happily rare occurrence, such as
+that of 1894-5, abundant snow and ice-slope work is no doubt
+obtainable. It would be accompanied, however, by extreme
+cold and days of too short a duration for work.</p>
+
+<p>Nor can Ireland boast of such arenas for cliff-climbing as
+the Lake District, or the Cuchullins in Skye. There is no
+Pillar Rock, no Old Man of Dearg. But there are ample
+opportunities for acquiring the art of mountain craft, the
+instinct which enables the pedestrian to guide himself alone
+from crest to crest, from ridge to ridge, with the least labour.
+He will learn how to plan out his course from the base of
+cliff or gully, marking each foot and hand grip with calm
+attention; and, knowing when to cease to attempt impossibilities,
+he will learn to trust in himself and acquire that
+most necessary of all climbers' acquirements a philosophic,
+contemplative calm in the presence of danger or difficult
+dilemmas. If the beginner is desirous of rock practice, or
+the practised hand requires to test his condition, or improve
+his form, there is many a rocky coast where the muscles and
+nerves and stamina can be trained to perfection. Kerry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>
+and Donegal are competent to form a skilled mountaineer
+out of any capable aspirant. Ice and snow craft is an
+accomplishment which must of course be acquired elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p>Much of the best scenery in Ireland is available only to
+the mountaineer. Macgillicuddy's Reeks can hardly be
+appreciated in less than a week's exploration. Even after
+three weeks spent amongst them we have wished for more.
+Donegal alone requires lengthened attention, and there a
+much longer period will be profitably spent.</p>
+
+<p>The climbing described in the following pages was chiefly
+undertaken with the object, or excuse, of botanical discovery.
+All the mountain experiences, except where the contrary is
+stated, represent the personal&mdash;usually the solitary&mdash;experiences
+of the writer. Of roped climbing the author has had
+no experience outside the Alps. Being tied up in a package
+and lowered from a cliff to a bird's nest, though not climbing,
+is, no doubt, a feat requiring nerve and dexterity; but when
+the nest of the raven, peregrine, or chough is in view, and
+ropes and companions are 'out of all ho,' and it appears
+improbable such a chance will come again, the eager naturalist
+will indeed rejoice that his nerve and dexterity are not wholly
+dependent on the comfortable security of a friendly cable round
+his waist. To the botanist such accomplishments are even
+more essential. A knowledge of rocks&mdash;what to trust, what
+to mistrust, what to attack vertically (such as granite and
+quartzose usually), what to deal with by their ledges (such
+as limestone often and sandstone still oftener), what to
+avoid altogether (such as trap, chalk, and decomposing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>
+basalt), a knowledge of the elementary principles of guidance
+under varying conditions of weather&mdash;can be gleaned from the
+mountain and sea coast cliffs in Ireland, not, perhaps, to such
+an extent as to produce an expert, but quite enough to lay
+the requisite groundwork of one. Form and condition,
+nerve and activity, will develop in company, and with them
+the love for the art will grow, and nothing beyond a little
+local education will be wanting to enable him to follow upon
+their arduous undertakings real proficients in mountain craft.
+Any words that can induce the skilled mountaineers of
+England and Scotland to test the merits of an Irish welcome,
+of Irish scenery, and of the bracing combination of Atlantic
+and mountain air in the western counties will have been
+written to good purpose.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Antrim.</b>&mdash;The highest hills are Trostan (1,810 ft.) and
+Slieveanea (1,782 ft.) The formation is almost entirely trap
+or basalt, and there is no cliff-climbing, the rock being
+crumbly and unsafe. Around the coast there is a belt of
+cretaceous rocks, forming in some places, as at the Giant's
+Causeway (White Rocks) and at Fair Head, bold cliffs of
+chalk or rotten trap. On Fair Head, 640 ft. high, there is
+a magnificent view. Cyclopean columns of greenstone crown
+a talus always heavy on the Antrim cliffs, owing to their
+friable nature.</p>
+
+<p>There is a fissure known as the Grey Man's Path on the
+west side of this Head, in the face of the cliff, by which it is
+possible to descend and inspect the foot of the columnar
+prisms.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 396px;">
+<a href="images/i_141.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_141_s.jpg" width="396" height="546" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">THE TARTAR ROCK
+
+(on Fair Head)</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Antrim glens and the Antrim coast road are deservedly
+famous for their lovely scenery, and excellent accommodation
+is everywhere obtainable. Of the glens <i>Glenariff</i> is,
+perhaps, the gem. It is hemmed in by cliffs 1,000 ft. high,
+with mural summits. Glenarm is equally beautiful, though
+in a more tranquil and gentle way. On the north and south
+sides of the Bay there are considerable precipices.</p>
+
+<p>From Fair Head the prospect is singularly fine. The
+Head is columnar basalt.</p>
+
+<p>Fair Head is approached from Ballycastle on the west.
+West of Ballycastle again, about the same distance, is the
+well-known rocky islet of Carrig-a-Rede, which is severed
+from the mainland by a chasm nearly a hundred feet deep,
+spanned by a very slight swinging or flying bridge, which in a
+storm is not inviting.</p>
+
+<p>On this basaltic islet an interesting climb round the cliffs
+may be had, and the rock is secure enough on the west and
+north sides.</p>
+
+<p>From Ballintoy, which is close to Carrig-a-Rede, it is a
+magnificent cliff walk to the Causeway; and from the
+Causeway to Portrush the rocky coast scenery is full of
+interest. Many places will invite a scramble. Below the
+road, which is adorned with an electric railway, numerous
+difficult places occur, and several little valleys permit a
+descent to the sea and a swim. A few miles west of the
+Causeway the coast becomes low to Portrush, the golfing
+centre, with its excellent hotel.</p>
+
+<p>At Portrush, or near it, at White Park Bay, the white
+cretaceous rocks are capped by frowning basalt, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span>
+contrast of colours is most striking. It is not necessary to
+describe the well-known <i>Giant's Causeway</i>. <i>Pleaskin Head</i>
+is the finest feature in its cliff scenery, but unfit for climbing,
+owing to the crumbling, weathering nature of its beds of lava
+and iron ore. More fine sea cliffs are found in the Gobbins,
+on Island Magee.</p>
+
+<p>Antrim, with all its lovely cliff and glen scenery, and all
+its good hotels, is not a mountaineer's county, like Kerry,
+Donegal, or Wicklow. It is more highly cultivated and more
+civilised than a climber with a proper sense of his calling
+could possibly approve of. It suggests driving, bicycling,
+picnics, good dinners, and evening dress more than knickers
+and hard work.</p>
+
+<p>We will turn our attention, therefore, to <i>the</i> mountain
+county of Ireland.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Donegal</b> has some of the highest and finest mountains in
+Ireland, and the extent of mountainous country is larger than
+in any other part of Ireland. No maritime mountain and
+cliff combined can approach Slieve League, in Donegal, and
+if the coast cliffs of Mayo have a continuous grandeur that
+excels any similar stretch in Donegal, there are many higher
+and finer cliffs on the Donegal coast, in endless succession and
+variety from Inishowen Head, on Lough Swilly, to the south-west
+coast.</p>
+
+<p>The Donegal mountains form four groups&mdash;(1) <i>Inishowen
+Mountains</i>; (2) <i>Donegal Highlands</i>; (3) <i>South-West Donegal</i>;
+(4) <i>South Donegal</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Inishowen Group.</i>&mdash;<i>Slieve Snacht</i>, the highest point,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>
+has no interest, except its view, and the same remark applies
+to <i>Rachtin More</i>, the next highest. Both are composed of
+barren quartzite. <i>Bulbin</i> has a schistose escarpment looking
+north-west, of some 300 ft., reaching almost to the summit,
+and terminating in a short talus and a heather-clad slope. It
+is a very picturesque little mountain, and possesses some interesting
+plants.</p>
+
+<p>Inishowen is deficient in accommodation. North of Buncrana
+there are but one or two inns that will tempt a visitor
+to return. Accommodation can be obtained at Carndonagh
+and Culdaff, and at Malin Head there is a house that receives
+visitors by arrangement.</p>
+
+<p>Malin Head is the proper place from whence to explore
+the cliffs of Inishowen, and Glennagiveny, under Inishowen
+Head, to its north, contains lodging-houses also.</p>
+
+<p>The coast line of Inishowen is in many parts wild and
+magnificent. Inishowen Head affords excellent climbing.
+The cliffs are from 300 to 400 ft. in height, and various
+traverses, ascents, and descents can be made between Stroove
+and Glennagiveny. The Head is in reach of Moville, where
+there is a good inn.</p>
+
+<p>Further to the north-west the cliffs increase in height.
+From Glengad Head, a little north-west of Culdaff, to Stookaruddan
+a series of precipitous headlands (500 to 800 ft.) faces
+the ocean, looking a little east of north. The walk along this
+coast from Culdaff to Malin Head, although laborious, on
+account of the steep-sided inlets, is well worth the trouble.
+The rugged boldness of Malin Head is most fascinating, and
+in a storm it is superbly grand. At this point the cliffs have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>
+fallen to a low elevation. The finest bit is at a place about
+half-way between Glengad and Stookaruddan.</p>
+
+<p>Having put up for the night at Malin Head, if possible, if
+not at Malin or Carndonagh (the latter for choice), Dunaff
+Head, guarding the eastern entrance to Lough Swilly, should
+be visited. Lough Swilly is the finest oceanic inlet round
+the whole coast of Ireland. The eastern cape, about 700 ft.
+high, terminates in a range of bold precipices over 600 ft. high
+for some distance. It is a most enchanting bit of sea cliff.
+In variety of shape, sheerness of descent, and picturesque
+grouping and surroundings it is hard to match.</p>
+
+<p>The cliffs can be descended at the nose of Dunaff to an
+outer rocky continuation, provided there is no storm. In
+stormy weather this rock, of perhaps a hundred feet, is completely
+swept by surf. There is a steep gully in another
+place on the south side, which admits of a descent to the
+water's edge. For most of their length, however, these cliffs
+are quite impracticable. For some distance downwards all
+seems to go well, but the pelting of detritus from above and
+Atlantic surf from below render the lower parts as smooth as
+marble and straight as a wall into the water. Here and
+there the inner bluffs are more practicable, and from a boat,
+in very calm weather, a study of the cliffs would probably
+reveal more than the scrutiny from above, which is usually
+alone possible.</p>
+
+<p>South of Dunaff Head, up Lough Swilly, the precipitous
+coast of the Erris Mountains gives a most enjoyable stretch
+of rough work. It is often possible to descend to the sea,
+and having done so a difficult climb is often preferable to a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>
+tiresome ascent to the headland surmounting one of the
+numerous creeks.</p>
+
+<p>Across the Lough we find ourselves in the lovely peninsula
+of Fanet, the coast of which is admirably adapted for
+rock practice. The highest sea cliff is the Bin, a conspicuous
+headland 350 ft. high and very precipitous. It can, however,
+be scaled without much difficulty in one place, a few feet
+from the summit towards the south. Other parts of it
+appear practicable, and at low tide the base can be completely
+compassed&mdash;a wild bit of work if there is a sea on.
+There is an admirable hotel at Portsalon, with a famous
+golf links, about half-way between this cliff and Knockalla
+Mountains. The whole coast from Portsalon to the Bin is
+studded with cliffs, caves, and remarkably beautiful natural
+arches.</p>
+
+<p>The rock of Fanet is almost entirely quartzite, a metamorphosed
+sandstone, often pure and glittering quartz. It is
+firm and safe, but the absence of stratification renders
+it difficult to negotiate. This barren rock (it disintegrates to
+silex) is very common in Donegal, and is identical with that
+of the Twelve Benns, in Connemara.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving Lough Swilly the remarkable view from
+Dunaff Head should be referred to. On a clear day the
+Paps of Jura, the Mull of Cantire, and even the Isles of Arran
+and Islay, can be seen in Scotland over the low Malin Head.
+Westwards, in a noble succession, lies the grand series of the
+outer Donegal capes. Fanet Head, Melmore Head, Breaghy
+Head, Horn Head, Tory Island, and the Bloody Foreland are
+all in view, and south-westwards the 'Donegal Highlands'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>
+look so imposing that an immediate expedition to them will
+probably be decided upon.</p>
+
+<p>Across the peninsula which lies between Mulroy Water
+and Lough Swilly there is a most comfortable inn at the
+Rosapenna Golf Links. It is an extremely pretty wooden
+structure, brought by the philanthropic Lord Leitrim, whose
+loss the district will never cease to deplore, from Norway, and
+the complete success of it makes one wonder that this sort of
+structure is not more often adopted. From Rosapenna expeditions
+can be made to cliffs and coast in all directions.</p>
+
+<p><i>Horn Head</i> is a grand range of sea cliffs, ten or twelve
+miles in extent, which are the largest breeding-place in
+Ireland for sea fowl. There are a few places where a descent
+is possible, and a careful exploration (with the proprietor's
+permission) will be certain to yield excellent climbing. The
+rock is as firm as iron in most places. Most of the climbing the
+writer has done on these cliffs has been from a boat upwards
+in search of sea fowls' eggs. One especially remembered one,
+after green cormorants' nests, at the entrance to that most
+noble cave the Gap of Doonmore, was of great difficulty.
+The absolutely reliable rock had very slight 1&#8211;1&frac12;-in. ledges,
+and the latter part of the climb was slightly overhanging.
+The nests were reached, however.</p>
+
+<p>All round this Head excellent rock-climbing, coupled with
+magnificent scenery, is available. At the base of the cliffs,
+not far from the proprietor's dwelling-place, there is a little
+bay with a cave above the reach of the tide. Here a man
+once saved his life by climbing. My friend, Mr. Charles
+Stewart, the proprietor of the Horn Head estates, writes:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>'I think it was the year 1876 that my man John Stewart
+was over three weeks in the cave watching my salmon, without
+the boat being able to go to him. The cliffs above were
+600 ft. high. He could easily climb up about 100 ft., most of
+it cliff-climbing with a little grass. After that there is a very
+difficult piece of cliff, almost perpendicular, of about 40 ft.
+It is easy enough to get down to this point from the top.
+A man went down and lowered a rope to him, but he could
+not come up straight, as the cliff overhung too much. He
+tied the rope round him and climbed up in a zigzag way. He
+was half an hour climbing this short piece, and was very exhausted,
+with his hands badly cut and bleeding. He had
+with him his son, a boy of about twelve years old. He had
+rope about 10 ft. long from his waist to the boy, who slipped
+twice on the way up, each time very nearly taking his father
+with him. About five years afterwards the boy was looking
+for eggs in the cliffs, and fell about 500 ft. to a shingly beach,
+rolling the first part of the way down a steep grassy bank for
+about 100 ft., and then a sheer drop of 150 ft. to another
+grassy bank where a small holly bush grows. When picked
+up (of course quite dead) he had a holly branch in his
+hand.'</p>
+
+<p>There is a comfortable hotel at Dunfanaghy, immediately
+inland of Horn Head.</p>
+
+<p>From Dunfanaghy Tory Island can be visited in calm
+weather&mdash;an interesting boating trip. It is fifteen or twenty
+miles to the north of west, and Horn Head has to be passed
+on the way, giving an opportunity of surveying its cliffs.
+There is a cliff or buttress (called, I believe, Tormore) which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>
+the islanders point out, that is somewhat difficult to climb
+upon. Once on the summit the successful cragsman can
+have any wish he may pine for. The highest point of the
+island is under 300 ft. The inhabitants disregard the payment
+of all rents, taxes, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The turreted and bold contour of Tory renders it a great
+embellishment to the north-west coast. It is visible from all
+elevations for a considerable distance. Seen in a sunset its
+richly reddish-coloured granites light up with a warm and
+lovely glow. It formerly possessed monastic or other religious
+institutions, and several ruins of small churches or
+oratories are still visible. It abounds with legends&mdash;a home
+of superstition and folk-lore.</p>
+
+<p>From the neighbourhood of Dunfanaghy the most attractive
+objects upon the horizon are the mountains of the
+Donegal Highlands, <i>Muckish</i> and <i>Errigal</i> being especially
+conspicuous.</p>
+
+<p><i>Muckish</i> ('Pig's Back,' 2,200 ft.) is about 7 miles
+from Dunfanaghy. It is flat-topped, with short rotten cliffs
+on the north and west sides.</p>
+
+<p><i>Errigal</i> (an oratory or small church) is more interesting.
+The summit is pointed, bifid, and hardly large enough for
+more than two persons. It is composed chiefly of disintegrating
+quartzite, flanked on the west by igneous rocks.
+Between Errigal and Muckish (about 6 miles) lie the
+pointed summits of <i>Aghla Beg</i> (1,860 ft.) and <i>Aghla More</i>
+(1,916 ft.) The largest of many lakes is Alton Lough, where
+the writer was once solemnly cautioned against swimming,
+on account of the 'Phouea,' which lived there and used to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>
+mingle with the cattle as a cow and lure one down into the
+depths. So would he do with mankind. Numerous swims
+in that lake have weakened this prognostication.</p>
+
+<p>Above Alton Lough, on its south-west side, are the cliffs of
+<i>Beaghy</i> (1,200 ft.), which afford a nice bit of climbing. All
+these hills can be gone over in a day, though some (especially
+Errigal) will ask a second visit. About 4 miles from
+the base of Errigal is the excellent fishing inn at Gweedore.
+From Dunfanaghy over the summit of Muckish, Aghla,
+Beaghy, and Errigal down to Gweedore is a bit of mountaineering
+which can be most thoroughly recommended.
+Gweedore should be made a head-quarters for a few days;
+and the comfort obtained at the close of the day will be well
+earned and appreciated.</p>
+
+<p>The Poisoned Glen, six miles from Gweedore, is a stern
+and barren scene of almost sheer, polished granite cliffs,
+nearly 1,000 feet above the base of the glen. The south-west
+corner of the glen is the most precipitous. Several
+deep, black, narrow gorges cut deeply into the granite.
+Some, particularly one at the corner of a commanding
+buttress on the south side, about half-way up the glen, are
+of considerable difficulty. Wedged boulders occur frequently.
+The worst bit is the final struggle to the crest of the ridge,
+which slopes south-westward to the summit of Slieve Snacht.
+It will be found necessary in one place to break out of this
+gully on to the face, and it should only be attempted in dry
+weather. A full day may be spent going up one gully and
+down another on the south-west side of the glen. Often
+the descent is far easier, a jump of 12 or 15 ft. down to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>
+shingly soft bed of the gully clearing an obstacle difficult to
+breast upwards.</p>
+
+<p>The most glaciated spots in Donegal are this glen and
+<i>Slieve Snacht</i>, a rounded hump of granite.</p>
+
+<p>By proceeding to the head of the Poisoned Glen, past the
+Gweedore Lakes, and past the prettily wooded Dunlewy
+Lake which lies abreast of the Glen, up the winding stream
+in its base, and taking the ravine in its apex, we reach a
+pass known as Ballaghgeeha Gap ('Windy Pass'). From this
+point it is a short walk across a valley to a road, visible from
+the pass, which follows the Gweebarra valley south-west
+down to Doochary. Taking it in the opposite direction, it
+leads into Glenbeagh, a gorge about eight miles long, with
+a lake enclosed by steep cliffs on its west shore. On its right
+a beautifully wooded mountain slope contains the seat of the
+proprietor, Glenbeagh Castle. This valley is crossed at its
+mouth by the main road to Gweedore, some 10 miles away,
+and the circuit described is one of the most beautiful mountain
+walks imaginable. In order to vary this, and save the road
+work home, a scramble along the west shore of the lake may
+be effected to the granite cliffs opposite Glenbeagh Castle,
+known as Keamnacally. In several places an ascent can be
+effected of about 1,000 ft. The crest of the cliff leads up by
+a gradual slope to the summit of Dooish, 2,147 ft. This
+point is in a straight line for Gweedore from Glenbeagh, and
+if the mountaineer wants more work the summit of Errigal
+lies in the same bee-line.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lough Salt</i> (1,546 ft.), a conspicuous hill, was ascended
+and described by Otway about seventy years ago, in the language<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>
+of that period (<i>Scenes and Sketches in Ireland</i>). He
+adds some quaint legends about two of the lakes. Into one of
+these St. Patrick banished the last Irish snake, a rebellious
+animal that gave him much anxiety.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gweedore to Carrick.</i>&mdash;The pedestrian had better omit
+the north coast, and proceed westwards round the coast
+to <i>Dungloe</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Aranmore Island, with its handsome red granites, shows
+some fine cliffs, especially those at its north-west end,
+between Torneady and the lighthouse. In the bay formed
+by these cliffs a grand tooth or monolith stands isolated and
+vertical, about 100 ft. in height. The cliffs are from
+400 to nearly 600 ft., and some rise perpendicularly from the
+water.</p>
+
+<p>The best point to visit Aran from is Burton Port,
+about 3 miles off. Skilled boatmen are required, as the
+passage is winding, amongst islets, rocks, rapid tide currents,
+and shallows. Aranmore, like many other Atlantic islands,
+slopes inland or eastward, and faces the Atlantic with a wall
+of cliffs. The coast north of it is wild and beautiful, with
+interesting physical features. Across Umfin Island runs a
+gruesome cleft, through which a heavy sea tears its way in
+fury, meeting the sea from the other end in frantic commotion.
+Further east, on Horn Head, is the famous MacSwyne's
+Gun, for many years a signal to the whole county that a
+furious sea was raging at the Horn. It is a 'puffing hole'
+on a large scale, but the little rift, ever widening, has
+slowly silenced all, or nearly so. On this Head also is the
+famous <i>Marble Arch</i>, Tempul Breagha, jutting out into the sea.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At Dungloe good quarters and excellent fishing, as usual,
+are obtainable.</p>
+
+<p>From Dungloe the road lies through Doochary, Glenties,
+and Ardara to Carrick. Each of these last villages has a
+good inn. The best plan is to break the journey at Ardara,
+and take the magnificent coast walk or climb into Carrick, a
+good day's work. As far as Maghera the way is plain along
+a low sandy coast. West of this lies Maum Glen, whose cliffs
+are precipitous enough, and if the glen be crossed a mile
+inland it is a steep descent and ascent, though devoid of
+difficulty. Following the coast, there is a track near the
+water's margin for some distance. Soon the precipices
+forming the north face of Slieve-a-Tooey are reached. If the
+tide is low the base can be followed a long way with one or
+two ugly corners. The cliffs are up to 1,000 ft. (Slieve-a-Tooey
+1,692), but can be ascended in various places, and the land
+lowers again at Port. All along the scenery is of the most
+impressive character. Outside Port lies Tormore Island,
+one of a group of boulders, a rock which, though hardly half
+a mile round its base, is a tremendous sea fowl breeding-place,
+second only to Horn Head. At low water Tormore
+can be reached from the shore, and it is scaled in many
+places by lads in search of eggs. One native was on the
+Great Tor when a storm arose, and cut him off from the
+shore and from all help. After a week he died of starvation
+and exposure. It is, perhaps, about 500 to 600 ft. high.
+Pursuing our way along the ever-varying cliffs, most interesting
+in a storm, the curious promontory called Sturrell is
+reached in about 4 miles. The knife-edged saddle is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>
+very rotten, but leads to a firm block of rock nearly 1,000 ft.
+above the sea. So defiant is the challenge of this rock
+that no cragsman can pass it by. The passage is not
+pleasant, yet even on a second visit the writer was powerless
+to resist temptation. The tottering wall of rotten rock gives
+the impression that the whole connection may slither down.
+Considering what desperate Atlantic storms this crumbling
+cliff withstands annually, such fears must be exaggerated.
+Nevertheless it would be improper to recommend this climb.
+It is dangerous as well as difficult, very exciting, and exceedingly
+delightful&mdash;after it is over.</p>
+
+<p>The rock along this northern side of the mountainous
+promontory of Banagh is chiefly quartzite, but in some
+places, as Sturrell, a rotten schist.</p>
+
+<p>About a mile south of Sturrell another and a grander
+headland is reached, that of Glen Head. It is 600 ft. of
+cliff, and deservedly famous. It is easily visited from
+Carrick Hotel, about 7 miles off. On much of the southern
+side a descent is practicable.</p>
+
+<p>From Glen Head to the road to Carrick is a short walk.
+At this hotel we are at the inland base of a renowned sea
+precipice.</p>
+
+<p><i>Slieve League</i> (1,972 ft.), whose southern face descends
+from the summit almost precipitously to the Atlantic, is
+perhaps the finest ocean cliff in Europe. The ascent from
+the hotel, almost at sea level, is easy. It is best to drive
+down to Teelin Bay, and strike up the mountain westwards
+along the coast. Carrigan Head is soon reached, and from a
+point north of it, on the south side of Bunglass, the finest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>
+view of Slieve League is obtained. This gradual ascent to
+about 1,000 ft. is a glorious experience.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_155.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_155_s.jpg" width="400" height="347" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">GLEN HEAD</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the southern Bunglass cliffs the view of the richly-coloured
+precipices opposite is superb. This colouring is a
+remarkable feature. The cliff is well-nigh sheer for 1,000 ft.,
+descending straight from a heathery brink. With the exception
+of the wonderful cliff seen in Yellowstone Park
+from 'Inspiration Point,' the writer could name no rock-face<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>
+with such an assemblage of hues. Dolerites, diorites, quartzites,
+schists, and conglomerates all help to form this remarkable
+mountain. Below the Atlantic lights up and enhances
+the whole scene. Though usually breaking into heavy surge
+it is sometimes as smooth as glass, and then the visitor should
+secure a boat at Teelin (or Towney Bay), and row beneath,
+viewing the caves. One of these, with a small entrance and
+a vast interior, gives forth appalling reverberating echoes to
+a horn or a gun.</p>
+
+<p>At Bunglass there is a track leading down to the sea, and
+a swim rewards the descent. Crossing the heavy-shingled
+foreshore to the base of the opposite cliffs, there is a gully
+which appears practicable from below, and leads to the very
+crest of the cliffs. The violence of storms and the pitiless
+pelting of surf below and dislodged fragments from above
+have cemented the steep floor of this slit into an uncompromising
+hardness. The writer tried it, passed one or two bad
+places, and was rejoiced beyond measure to reach the bottom
+with unbroken bones.</p>
+
+<p>From the summit of Bunglass cliffs, at a point a little
+north of the Eagle's Nest, at an altitude of 1,000 ft., it is
+practicable to traverse the whole face of Slieve, at about
+the middle height, 700 to 1,000 ft. above sea level, from
+end to end, to the bluffs of Leahan. In two or three
+places the ocean edge can be reached, besides the point
+already mentioned. In search of botanical specimens we
+have climbed them in all directions. There is a track (of a
+sort) to the sea at one place between the Eagle's Nest and
+the One Man's Pass. While scrambling along the sea face<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>
+this track was discovered amongst steep heather, bracken, and
+bear-berry, and a footprint showed it to be a human resort.
+Finally an old man and a little boy emerged from the ocean
+brink, loaded with samphire, both inside and outside, and
+eating it as they rested on their climb. Vastly surprised at
+the appearance of the only stranger they had ever seen there,
+they eagerly besought him to remove his boots&mdash;a suggestion
+declined with thanks. Samphire boiled with milk is a cure
+for a cough, but it was a novelty to see it eaten raw. This
+track is called Thone-na-culliagh ('Back of the Grouse').</p>
+
+<p>It took the writer three summer days to complete this
+traverse from end to end of the median height of Slieve
+League. Several nasty ravines, iron-floored and steep-edged,
+had to be crossed. At the close of each day an ascent had to
+be discovered&mdash;an anxious undertaking, as the return invariably
+seemed too dreadful to contemplate. The point relinquished
+at the close of each day was religiously repaired to
+on the following.</p>
+
+<p>Excessively steep slopes of cemented gravel, grass, or
+crumbling rock, half held together by heather, are the usual
+difficulties. But in four or five places odd right-angled walls
+of horizontal, loosely-balanced blocks of slaty schist jut out
+right across the face of the cliff, the legs of the angle being
+sheer to the sea and horizontal above. The blocks lie loose
+upon each other, and are not always large enough to give one
+a sense of anything except the rickets. Usually it was possible
+to climb beside these buttresses, and, balancing by them,
+get over in gingerly fashion. But one&mdash;the largest&mdash;had to
+be climbed on equilibristic principles. Sheep tracks follow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span>
+the face of the cliff in some places. Where a sheep can go a
+man can go, though he may not like jumps from bad footing
+to worse landing, where even sheep occasionally come to
+grief. Accordingly a track going horizontally here looked
+encouraging to the writer, till a flock of wild goats, signally
+scared, put his confidence to flight, for a wild goat will lead
+a man where he may find it necessary to make a prolonged
+halt. However the goat track vanished upward, and the
+seven-mile traverse was successfully completed to the Eagle's
+Nest.</p>
+
+<p>From the summit of Slieve League there is a fine oceanic
+view of island, headland, bay, and cliff. South-east of the
+summit, at a slightly lower altitude, is the <i>One Man's Pass</i>,
+about the terrors of which a great deal of rubbish has been
+written. It is a steep, narrow, short ridge of firm rock, which
+any mountaineer would walk up or down with his hands in
+his pockets. In a storm he would, however, adopt a worm-like
+attitude. The sides are very steep, but practicable both
+seaward and inland. It commands a superb view. Among
+the legends connected with Slieve League one about a Spaniard,
+a priest, and a pony is the most captivating (see <i>The Donegal
+Highlands</i>).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a href="images/i_159.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_159_s.jpg" width="600" height="381" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">ONE MAN&#39;S PASS</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Slieve League is capped by the remnants of outlying beds
+of lower carboniferous age, conglomerates, with fossil plant
+remains. Botanically also this mountain is most interesting,
+rivalling Ben Bulben for first place as a habitat for mountain
+plants in Ireland. There is an interesting feature visible
+from the summit&mdash;a group of spire-like pinnacles, close below
+the crest of the ridge. These are known as the 'chimneys,'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>and form an attractive assemblage. They are of the same
+nature as the flying buttresses already spoken of.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_160.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_160_s.jpg" width="400" height="447" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">THE CHIMNEYS (SLIEVE LEAGUE)</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Slieve League takes its name from 'liag' (flag). There is a
+flag formation near the summit. Bunglass is 'Green River
+Mouth,' but a modern guide-book translates Bunglass 'Beautiful
+View,' a ludicrous error explained by the fact that the
+point which gives so noble a prospect of Bunglass is known
+as Awark More ('Great View').</p>
+
+<p><i>Croagh Gorm</i> and <i>Blue Stack Mountains</i> lie north
+and west of Barnesmore Gap and above Lough Eske,
+reaching nearly to Glenties, Lough Eske being about 30
+miles east of Slieve League. The coast eastwards from
+Slieve League becomes suddenly low, and the formation
+changes to carboniferous limestone, which occupies a broad
+belt round Donegal Bay. The Blue Stack group is about
+7 miles across.</p>
+
+<p><i>Blue Stack</i> (2,219 ft.) lies above Lough Eske and is
+granite, although the Lough itself lies in the limestone.
+About Lough Belshade, which lies north of Lough Eske,
+about half-way up the east side of Blue Stack, the granite is
+precipitous, and one bold bluff west of this lake (Belshade),
+with a sort of little cave in its face, may be taken in the ascent
+of the mountain. Most of the granite portions of the range are
+rounded, flowing, gently contoured, barren slopes of bare
+rock, sometimes at low elevations becoming steep and difficult.
+The ascent of Blue Stack from Lough Eske should on
+no account be missed. The lake is about 10 miles round,
+and most beautifully situated at the southern base of a bold
+mass of rugged, desolate granitic bosses and cliffs, cleft by a
+few fairly steep ravines. In direct contrast to this sombre
+scene is the west shore of the lake, which is girt with timber,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>
+chiefly natural. Ardnamona is the nearest portion of this
+sylvan scene to the mountain base, and the whole basin is
+admirably sheltered by the surrounding mountains from the
+violent storms which of late years have been more destructive
+than ever.</p>
+
+<p>From the road above Ardnamona, looking down over it
+upon Lough Eske and its solemn background, the view is
+perfect. It is a sort of compact Killarney, which the eye and
+mind will long feast upon.</p>
+
+<p>North-west of Blue Stack, a couple of miles from it, lies
+<i>Lavagh More</i> (2,211 ft.), a fine upstanding lump of turf-covered
+schists. Schists and sandstones constitute the
+greater part of these hills. From Lavagh More, descending
+southwards, by a series of lakes, the head of the Shrule
+River is reached, in a valley with a precipitous northern side,
+which gives difficult bits of crag work. In this valley at
+the northern end lies a waterfall known as the Grey Mare's
+Tail.</p>
+
+<p>The Blue Stack Mountains are best explored from
+Donegal on the south or Glenties on the west, in both of
+which places there are comfortable inns. It is best to drive
+to the head of Lough Eske, and it is a fine walk from that,
+including most of the tops, down to Martin's Bridge, 3
+miles from Glenties, over Blue Stack, Lavagh More, and
+Silver Hill.</p>
+
+<p>In the mountainous district around Glenties other excursions
+are available. A walk to be recommended is from
+Barnesmore Gap (drive of 7 miles from Donegal) across the
+Croagh Gorm and Blue Stack summits to Glenties. Barnesmore<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>
+Gap should by all means be visited. The mountains
+on either side rise 1,500 to 1,700 ft., not quite precipitously,
+but with bluffs, heavy boulders, and steep rocky faces. C&aelig;sar
+Otway gives a highly-coloured description of this impressive
+scene. Another way to explore the group is to follow up the
+course of the Reelan water through a peculiarly secluded and
+remote valley. From Glenties to Ardara is about 4 miles,
+and the latter village is a capital halting place. Fishing and
+fowling can be had. The road from Ardara to Carrick, about
+10 miles, passes up the wild, grand gorge of Glen Gesh by a
+zigzag road, reminding one of some of the Swiss ascents.
+For the sake of the varied scenery obtained by these doublings
+it is almost preferable to stick to the road till near the
+summit. On the south side of this glen it is bounded by a
+range known as <i>Altnadewon</i> or <i>Croaghnagcaragh</i> (<i>Reek</i>,
+'hill of the thicket'). A steep rock face extends from the
+main road at the 'nock of the Ballagh,' or Pass, which forms
+a wide amphitheatre on the north face of the highest point
+of this range (1,652 ft.) For some distance it is by no means
+easy to scale this declivity.</p>
+
+<p>Towards the southern verge of the county the coast is
+low and flat, but the bold precipitous face of Ben Bulben
+looks highly attractive.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving Donegal it will be well to mention one
+useful hint. The Ordnance maps of this county show 100-ft.
+contours, which are of the utmost advantage upon any
+excursion, as the height of any point attained by the
+pedestrian may be fixed within a hundred feet. Very few
+other parts of Ireland are thus favoured.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>The Ben Bulben Range</b> lies in the northern part of
+Sligo and Leitrim; a most conspicuous object in the landscape
+viewed from Slieve League across Donegal Bay. The
+shapely escarpment of the nearest point looks, indeed, as if
+it belonged to Donegal, which is 7 miles away. This portion
+consists of <i>Cloughcorragh</i> (2,007 ft.) and <i>Ben Whiskin</i>
+(1,666 ft.)</p>
+
+<p>These mountains are almost entirely carboniferous limestone.
+Much of the group is an elevated plateau, girt round on
+all sides, or nearly so, by limestone precipices, usually some
+hundreds of feet high, rising from a long steep slope of d&eacute;bris.
+The height of the cliff edges is about 1,600 ft., of which the
+talus occupies about two-thirds. The cliffs are fine, but consist
+largely of insecure blocks. Occasionally a fissure occurs,
+permitting ascent or descent, and some very steep ones are
+used on the south side of the range by turf-cutters.</p>
+
+<p>In consequence of this formation the pedestrian may find
+himself following a long series of cliff edges, without being
+able to discover a way of descent. To examine the cliffs the
+proper course is to follow the sheep walk, which usually
+occurs at the base of the precipices above the talus. The
+walk across the range, from Bundoran to Sligo, is full of
+interest to a mountaineer, and the descent into the valley
+north of Sligo from <i>King's Mountain</i> is one that will never
+be effaced from his memory. It is not easy to find the passages
+leading down. The valley is a vast amphitheatre
+almost enclosed by cliffs, sheer and, including talus, about
+1,000 ft. high.</p>
+
+<p>It is always a pleasant experience to follow the crest of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>
+line of limestone cliffs. Similar cliffs on a smaller scale are
+those of Moher and Aran, in the county Clare. It is probably
+owing to the fissures and laminations of the limestone, which
+afford a perfect system of internal drainage, that such cliffs
+are not only dry and clean, but also free from the gullies
+and valleys which, causing frequent ups and downs, sometimes
+render cliff walks extremely fatiguing&mdash;near Waterford, for
+example. Again, limestone grows no heather and forms
+little peat, so that the usual footing is clean grass sod&mdash;very
+pleasant after hummocky tussocks&mdash;and yielding 'quaas.'</p>
+
+<p>For these mountains Kinlough is perhaps the most convenient
+centre. Manor Hamilton and Dromahaire may
+also be utilised, but Bundoran and Sligo, though the latter
+commands the beautiful Lough Gill, are too distant from the
+hills.</p>
+
+<p>It may be mentioned here that there are various attractions
+in Northern Ireland outside the scope of this work.
+Fishing is always in reach, and of late years golf has thriven
+apace. No finer links exist than those of Portsalon, Rosapenna,
+Portrush, and Newcastle, and there are many others
+of growing excellence.</p>
+
+<p>Ben Bulben is famous for its mountain flora, a valuable
+report on which, by Messrs. Barrington and Cowell, has
+been published by the Royal Irish Academy.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Mayo.</b> Here are the highest mountains in the west of
+Ireland, Mweelrea (2,688 ft.) and Nephin (2,646 ft.)</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_166.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_166_s.jpg" width="400" height="589" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">MAYO AND CONNEMARA</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Nephin</i> is a round, isolated lump of quartzite, becoming
+schistose, rapidly disintegrating on a northern spur, where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>the only declivities occur. For the mountaineer it is both
+distant and unattractive, but on clear days&mdash;which are rare&mdash;there
+is an extensive view.</p>
+
+<p>About 10 miles west of Nephin the axis of the Corslieve
+range is struck near the middle of its almost north and south
+direction. This chain of hills includes Laghdantybaun (2,369
+ft.), at the northern end, Corslieve (1,785 ft.), Nephinbeg
+(2,065 ft.), and several others over 2,000 ft. The chain is
+about 15 miles in length, terminating near Newport, where
+fairly comfortable accommodation can be had. The northern
+hills are slate or sandstone, the southern quartzite. It is
+an interesting range, and the scenery is wild and rugged,
+but there is little true climbing. The best way to approach
+them is to drive from Leenane Inn to the Deel River, due
+north, and then strike west over a wet bog, full of dunlins,
+plover, and curlew.</p>
+
+<p><i>Achill Island</i> is about 15 miles west of Newport.
+The mountainous peninsula of Curraun Achill intervenes,
+and is about 7 miles across, rising to a tableland of 1,300
+to 1,500 ft. in height, composed chiefly of horizontally-stratified
+sandstones and conglomerates, not very safe, but
+pleasant enough to follow along by the terraces on its
+north-eastern edge. Juniper is remarkably abundant here,
+and, at lower levels, Mediterranean heath.</p>
+
+<p>On Achill Island there is a comfortable hotel at the
+'missionary settlement,' which is about 10 miles from the
+ferry. The settlement is at the base of Slieve More (2,204
+ft.), the highest point of Achill. This mountain is well
+worthy of a visit, but far finer are the noble cliffs at Croghaun,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>about 5 miles west of Slieve More and 2,192 ft. above
+sea level.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 596px;">
+<a href="images/i_168.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_168_s.jpg" width="596" height="395" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">ACHILL HEAD</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Achill is mainly quartzite, which rock invariably looks
+and is barren and forbidding.</p>
+
+<p>There are several points along these cliffs where a descent
+to the sea is practicable, and plenty of climbing is obtainable
+along the face of Croghaun, which may be traversed in all
+directions, the cliffs having the appearance and repute of
+being more inaccessible than they really are. The rock
+(quartzite) is broken into screes and heavy shingle in many
+places.</p>
+
+<p><i>Croaghpatrick</i> (2,510 ft.), famous for its unrivalled
+view, and formerly called 'The Reek,' has a northern face of
+precipitous declivities where the quartzite formation (as on
+Nephin) gives place to schists and shales. The view to the
+north of Clew Bay, with its hundreds of islets and Achill
+beyond, is unsurpassably lovely. The climbing is more of a
+'slither' amongst rotten footing or shingle on the northern
+side. The summit is crowned with numerous cairns, being
+a famous 'pattern.' The beautiful St. Dabeoc's or Connemara
+heath abounds. Westport, at its foot, has an excellent hotel,
+and it is better to return here from Achill, or vice versa.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mweelrea.</i>&mdash;Unlike the quartzite mountains, which are
+usually conical or dome-shaped, Mweelrea is of a totally different
+structure. Composed of Silurian slates chiefly, it forms
+an extensive tableland at the north of Killary Fiord, in the
+south-west corner of Mayo. It is intersected by three principal
+valleys, radiating at about equal angles from Doo Lough.
+One&mdash;that of Delphi and Bundorragha&mdash;runs southward to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span>
+Killary. Another&mdash;that of the Glenummera river and Owenduff
+river&mdash;has an easterly trend to the Eriff. The third valley
+is that of Doo Lough, Lough Cullin, and Lough Connel,
+which runs north-west to the sea. The names of many of
+these points, such as Delphi Mountain, the highest above Doo
+Lough, and Loughty Mountain, its elevated eastern spur,
+ending in Glen Laur&mdash;are not given on the Ordnance map,
+and were obtained from the natives. Error easily arises in
+nomenclature. A hill or ridge may have a name known to a
+few, or belonging to one slope, or to a people living on one
+side. Again, it may lie along the boundary of two town
+lands, and each may give its name to one side of it. Moreover
+the pronunciation is a study in itself. Near Newport
+there is a district called on the map Burrishoole, and a bay
+named Bellacragher. These are pronounced 'Brizzool' and
+'Ballycroy.'</p>
+
+<p>The Mweelrea group consists of a series of plateaux,
+bounded by long ranges of precipices, ridges, and gullies, often
+ending in sheer ravines. Mweelrea itself fronts the mouth
+of Killary Fiord, curving in a grand tabular ridge, 2,600 ft.
+high, above two small lakes at 1,200 ft. The pass of Delphi
+and Doo Lough are the most imposing scenes in the west of
+Ireland for wildness and sombre grandeur.</p>
+
+<p>The climbing is of varying difficulty. Between their
+bases and the screes below tempting ledges wind upwards,
+but here the strata are almost vertical, rendering them
+extremely treacherous. A nasty fall impressed this peculiarity
+on the writer's memory. In other places the rock
+is sandstone, mixed with decomposing conglomerates&mdash;a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>
+formation worse to scale than any except the miocene trap
+rocks of the Antrim coast.</p>
+
+<p>There is one interesting and difficult climb. A lake&mdash;Glencullin
+('Glen of Hollies') Lake&mdash;lies immediately north of
+Doo Lough. A stream runs into the south-west corner of
+this lake out of Glencullin, starting from a series of black,
+sunless precipices, seamed with gorges and well-nigh 2,000
+ft. high. These can be climbed by two gorges at least from
+base to summit. The name of these cliffs is Asko Keeran
+('Ridge of Mountain Ash'), and when the crest is gained a fine
+walk is the reward, over Ben Bury (2,610 ft.) to the highest
+point, Mweelrea (2,688 ft.), along a curved ridge one to two
+miles long.</p>
+
+<p>One portion of the Mweelrea system&mdash;that which lies
+immediately east of Fin Lough or Delphi&mdash;is known as Ben
+Gorm, or Kead-na-binnian. The cliffs upon this mountain
+are formed chiefly of gneiss, which breaks up into blocks,
+owing to numerous transverse fissures across the lamination.
+These blocks lie on one another, often on a steep slope, owing
+to the roughness of their surfaces, which prevents their sliding.
+They are then more dangerous even than slaty rocks, since
+this very roughness beguiles a climber into feeling that the
+footing is safe at a steeper angle than on the smoother surfaces,
+while the rocks are merely in unstable equilibrium.</p>
+
+<p>Maamtrasna, Slieve Partry, the Formnamore Mountains,
+or Letterbrickaun ('Wet Hill of Badgers'), abut upon the head
+of Killary Fiord. The highest points, or rather flats, are
+Devils Mother (2,131 ft.), Maamtrasna (Formnamore) (2,239
+and 2,209 ft.) They are chiefly composed of sandstone and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span>
+sandstone conglomerate, and form a series of high barren
+tablelands, dotted with pools, and of no interest whatever.</p>
+
+<p>The above group, as well as Mweelrea, is within easy
+reach of the excellent Leenane Inn at Killary.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cliffs.</i>&mdash;Of the numerous magnificent cliffs on the western
+seaboard of Ireland none, in the writer's opinion, excel those
+of North Mayo. Certain aspects of Slieve League are grander,
+the cliffs of Moher are more splendidly symmetrical, Horn
+Head, Dunaff Head, Achill, all have their glories, but the
+Mayo cliffs are unmatched for extent and variety. From
+Ballina by Ballycastle to Belmullet, round the coast, is the
+finest sea-cliff walk the writer has ever experienced. For
+three days there was no cessation of variety in shape, in
+sculpture, in colouring of the precipices, always lofty and
+always plunging into a surf-like snow beneath, fringing the
+blue ocean outside. Occasionally, but rarely, ravines occur,
+leading to some tiny rock-bound bay. The coast here for
+many miles is higher than the land inside, and the streams
+flow away from the sea to the south, and then west to the
+Atlantic. Perhaps the most hopeless area of undrainable
+bog in Ireland lies in Western and North-Western Mayo.</p>
+
+<p>Although it was impossible to omit mention of these cliffs,
+they are not for the climber. They are too sheer, and, what
+is worse, there is no accommodation. From Ballycastle west
+to Belderg is within reach. But it is west of Belderg that
+the cliffs are grandest, as at Glinsk, Doonmara, and Benwee
+Head. Without the happy fortune which enabled the writer
+to use a shooting lodge, located west of Belderg, the distances
+would have been impossible without camping out.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>From Belderg to Belmullet the rock is chiefly a hard
+and reliable quartzite, often seamed with dykes of basalt.
+Numerous needle-shaped islets, stacks, and stookawns occur.
+The whole coast abounds with sea fowl, and is singularly free
+from human influence, since the absence of bays, strands, or
+harbours renders long stretches of it uninhabitable even for
+fishermen.</p>
+
+<p>Otway's <i>Sketches in Erris and Tyrawley</i> (1841) should
+be read.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Galway Mountains.</b>&mdash;The Galway Mountains, besides
+the Maamtrasna range, spoken of above, are <i>Maamturk
+range</i>, <i>Benchoona</i>, <i>Bennabeola</i> or <i>Twelve Bens</i> (or 'Pins').</p>
+
+<p><i>Maamturk range</i>, including the hills which form such
+a conspicuous feature in Joyce's Country, extend, roughly
+speaking, from the Killary Hotel south-east to Lough
+Shindilia, at the Half-way House on the coach road from
+Clifden to Galway. It forms a zigzag series of beehive-shaped
+domes, connected by ridges, which are frequently 500 ft. to
+1,000 ft. below the neighbouring summits. Usually these
+connecting ridges are set at angles with the tops quite at
+variance with the main axis of the chain, and are invisible
+from the summits, so that compass bearings are most misleading.</p>
+
+<p>These truncated mounds are composed mainly of gneiss,
+sometimes of quartzite, and in the northern portion the chain
+becomes more fertile and of a clayey, schistose nature. They
+are very similar to the Twelve Bens, save that the latter have
+their conical tops still adhering, apparently showing that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>
+this elongated line was more vulnerable than the self-protecting
+'Pins' cluster.</p>
+
+<p>This chain is singularly barren, but so bold and conspicuous
+a feature in the landscape claims exploration. The
+writer once traversed the whole length of summits from the
+Half-way House to Leenane in a walk, or climb, for about
+14 hours. The going is often excessively rugged and
+wearisome, owing to the loose detritus of heavy, angular
+quartzose blocks. An occasional oasis, as at Maumeen,
+charms the eye with its verdure and some botanical treasures.
+Near this an hotel once existed, but at present there is nothing
+nearer than Glendalough or Leenane, at the extreme ends of
+the range.</p>
+
+<p>Many a stiff bit of climbing, short and sharp, was met
+with on this most severe day's work, in making growingly
+reckless short cuts from summit to summit. From Leckavrea
+to the Killary there are about fifteen distinct summits,
+averaging 2,000 ft. in height.</p>
+
+<p><i>Benchoona</i> (1,975 ft.), a northern outlier of the Twelve
+Bens, lies at the mouth of the Killary, opposite Mweelrea.
+Killary Harbour or Fiord runs inland eastwards for some
+15 miles. Benchoona is gneissose, with two summits,
+close on 2,000 ft., and a lake lies between them. Several
+Alpine plants occur among the north-east cliffs. The
+rock here is uncommonly dangerous to climb, being loosely
+constructed and apt to disintegrate in unexpectedly massive
+segments. On such an occasion, although against the dogma
+of climbing, a swift and sudden jump or spring is sometimes
+the only escape. The block&mdash;perhaps a ton or two in weight&mdash;which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>
+is quietly sliding, or more probably overturning, with
+its captive, yields momentum enough for a final kick to clear
+out altogether to any preferable station. These rocks are
+unfit to climb, and will only be meddled with for some special
+purpose.</p>
+
+<p><i>Twelve Bens</i> (2,391 ft.), within easy access of first-class
+hotels in Connemara, are huddled together in beautiful confusion,
+and offer problems of special interest in their puzzling
+geography and watershed system. Bennabeola is entered
+by no roads of any great penetration, but there are several
+valleys forming arteries with its very heart. Of these Glen
+Inagh from the east, Glen Coaghan from the south, and
+Owenglin from the west are the most important. The best
+method is to select a glen&mdash;Glen Coaghan for choice&mdash;and
+work to its head. Two or three summits will then probably
+lie equidistant. Most of these summits are of quartzite, with
+short heavy screes, white and extremely barren. The most
+interesting climb is upon the north of Muckanaght (2,150 ft.),
+which is connected with Benfree by a ridge at about 1,000 ft.
+The cliffs lie about 1,300 to 1,800 ft., and from near their
+upper edge to the summit (2,150 ft.) is a steep and perilous
+grassy slope.</p>
+
+<p>Muckanaght is about 2&frac12; miles from the lovely Kylemore
+Lake. Two 'Pins,' Benbaunbeg and Benfree, intervene.
+The peak itself is connected by ridges with Bencullagh
+and Benbaun South. From Muckanaght the heart of
+Bennabeola is laid bare, and, given a clear day, no better
+point of vantage could be desired.</p>
+
+<p>The Twelve Bens are in the heart of some of the loveliest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span>
+scenery in the world, full of varied and interesting scrambles,
+and botanically they are pre-eminently the richest in
+mountain plants in Connaught, Croaghpatrick coming next.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Clare.</b>&mdash;<i>The Cliffs of Moher</i> may be visited from
+excellent quarters at Lisdoonvarna (the 'Fort in the Gap'), in
+the north-west of Clare, a district known as the Burren.
+This district is formed of the carboniferous limestone which
+occupies most of Central Ireland.</p>
+
+<p>This formation, replete with carboniferous fossils, is remarkably
+monotonous and symmetrical. When it occurs in
+a cliff formation, as at Moher, or the south-western sides of
+the Aran Islands, it forms a sheer wall, absolutely vertical,
+to the sea, or else it is arranged in a series of terraces, like
+gigantic steps. Very rarely a chasm occurs, connecting two
+terraces. More often it is possible, by means of slight protruding
+ledges, to ascend an almost vertical face, since the
+rock is invariably either absolutely safe or easy to test.
+Sometimes, as at the southern end of the Moher cliffs, isolated
+pillars of rock occur, which are most pleasing to climb and
+pleasant to remain perched upon when climbed.</p>
+
+<p>These rocky surfaces of Aran and Burren are very tiresome
+and difficult to traverse, as the fissures (2-12 in. in width)
+between the blocks are often adjacent. The rock is usually
+cut into slabs, generally rectangular in shape. The loose
+blocks are piled by the inhabitants into tottering walls, which
+are difficult either to cross or upset with safety. The easiest
+way is to ascend gently and then jump with a kick behind.
+On Aran especially the going is most laborious.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a href="images/i_177.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_177_s.jpg" width="600" height="334" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">CLIFFS OF MOHER</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>As an instance of the sheerness of these cliffs on Aran
+boys may be seen fishing with a rodless line from their edge,
+200 ft. above the water. Inland these cliffs run gradually
+in a series of irregular declivities, a gently sloping flagged
+platform to low levels.</p>
+
+<p>Much is done here by the natives in the way of egg-collecting,
+with the assistance of ropes, the eggs being chiefly
+those of guillemots, gulls, and razor-bills, and required for
+food.</p>
+
+<p>The cliff scenery of Moher is superb and unequalled. It
+has not the variety of stack, needle, ravine, that other formations
+have, but its very regularity is most harmoniously
+imposing. On the other hand, the brilliant and varying
+colouring of North Mayo or Slieve League, in Donegal, is
+entirely absent.</p>
+
+<p>The Aran Islands are visited from Galway by steamer.
+There is an hotel on the north island. They are full of
+ethnological and arch&aelig;ological interest.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Co. Down.</b> <i>Mourne Mountains.</i>&mdash;This chain of granite
+hills covers an elliptic space of about 15 miles by 6,
+the longer axis stretching from Newcastle to Rosstrevor,
+where there are excellent hotels. From either point to the
+other is a day's walk that will well repay the labour, and can
+be made to include all the principal summits. The descent
+to Newcastle, through Donard Lodge woods, by the waterfall,
+is very pretty, and by varying the night's accommodation a
+still more beautiful route lies through Tollymore Park to
+Bryansford, where good quarters are obtainable.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a href="images/i_179.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_179_s.jpg" width="600" height="415" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">MOURNE MOUNTAINS</span>
+</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The highest points lie at the Newcastle or north-east
+extremity of the group. The southern portions are less
+interesting, and the western flanks are very dreary.</p>
+
+<p>These hills, being of granite, have few precipices, many
+rounded summits, sloping sides, and heavy screes, of the
+usual uncomfortable angular nature. The 'Eagle's Cliff,'
+a mile to the north of Slieve Donard, affords some climbing,
+and a little rock exercise can be had at 'the Castles,' lying on
+a spur of Slieve Commedagh, to the west of Slieve Donard,
+below it and half a mile away.</p>
+
+<p>Slieve Bingian, in the south-east of the range, has a little
+easy climbing.</p>
+
+<p>There is also a considerable cliff on a shoulder north-west
+of Slieve Meel-more. It is known as Spellick, and is easily
+visited from Bryansford. It is worth examination, but the
+writer has not climbed it.</p>
+
+<p>The view from Slieve Donard is, of course, famous.</p>
+
+<p>The ascent from Bryansford, through Tullymore Park,
+taking Slieve Commedagh and the Castles <i>en route</i>, is
+perhaps the finest walk, so far as scenery is concerned, to be
+had in this picturesque cluster of mountains.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Co. Dublin.</b>&mdash;<i>Lambay</i> is an island abounding in sea
+fowl and wild flowers, about 2&frac12; miles from the nearest point
+of land, and about 10 miles north-east of Dublin. It is best
+approached by boat from Donabate, or less conveniently from
+Howth, Malahide, Rush, or Skerries.</p>
+
+<p>The cliffs reach about 250 ft., and are practically sheer
+in many places, as on the north-east side at Freshwater Bay,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>
+or a little west of it, and on the south-east cliffs below
+Raven's Well.</p>
+
+<p>Several most interesting climbs are to be obtained on it.
+The best are on those cliffs west of Freshwater Bay.</p>
+
+<p>About 30 ft. above the water's edge at high-water mark
+there is a narrow and deep horizontal fissure, which in May
+is packed with breeding sea fowl. The ornithological
+visitor will at once feel it his duty to reach that fissure.
+The writer's first visit to Lambay was made in the company
+of one Dykes, known to be the best clifter on Howth. He
+pronounced this fissure inaccessible. There is a bend in the
+cliffs leading to the right-hand extremity of the fissure.
+Here lay the only chance, and the first two grips out of the
+boat are easy enough, raising one 6 or 8 ft. (or perhaps
+15 if the tide is out) above the water. After that there
+are two enormous stretches, with practically no foothold. If
+these two points are passed, the fissure is in reach, and an
+ugly wriggle will land the unwelcome intruder on his
+anterior surface upon the narrow ledge forming its base.</p>
+
+<p>Dykes meantime was highly encouraging, calling out,
+'Madness,' 'Break your neck,' 'You can never get down.'
+The climber had, however, an original plan of descent, and
+having, with considerable difficulty, divested himself of his
+garments, he dropped them first into the boat and then himself
+into the water.</p>
+
+<p>On revisiting these cliffs ten years later, and pointing out
+this climb to a very good rock-man, he failed to see how the
+climb was done, and so it had to be done again. This time,
+however, the tide was out, and on stripping to take the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>
+plunge it became at once apparent that a rock exactly in the
+line of descent was too near the surface. To climb down had
+always appeared dangerous, on account of the lack of foothold
+and the very awkward nature of the backward movement out
+of the fissure. So an attempt was made on the wall above.</p>
+
+<p>It is marvellous how a naked man can adhere to a cliff.
+For a full hour an unhappy preadamite man writhed and
+glued himself against the face of that cliff, descending and
+reascending by new lines, but always checked by a straight
+wall about 150 ft. up. Anything appeared better than that
+hateful descent. Some friends ran to a coastguard station a
+mile or more away for a rope. However before they
+reappeared the descent was faced and safely accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>This sketch will serve to show that high mountains are
+by no means necessary for the practice of rock-climbing,
+the very best of which is constantly attainable along the
+coast. Owing to the working of the ocean waves unsafe
+pieces are almost certainly removed, and the cliff, at its lower
+parts at any rate, is invariably firm and safe. It is fine
+sport to choose a steep rocky coast at, say, half-tide in spring,
+and travel between high and low water marks as far as
+may be during the six hours. It should be a point of honour
+not to ascend, but if forced to take to the water excellent
+practice and much amusement is obtainable in this way, and
+the slippery nature of the rock teaches sureness of foot.
+Nailed boots are, of course, indispensable.</p>
+
+<p>The geological formation of Lambay is principally
+felstone porphyry. Some stratified Silurian shales and limestone
+occur, and there is a small sheet of old red sandstone,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span>
+with conglomerates. The rock is in general hard and
+reliable.</p>
+
+<p><i>Howth</i> is a promontory with a village about 9 miles
+from Dublin, for the people of which it is a favourite resort.
+From Balscaddan Bay, on the north, to an almost opposite
+point, Drumleck Point, on the south, the east coast is composed
+of cliffs (200-300 ft.), sometimes abrupt, sometimes
+ending above in grass slopes, very slippery in hot weather,
+which have caused many accidents.</p>
+
+<p>A very interesting scramble, with many nasty traverses
+over these steep grass slopes, may be had round Howth Head.
+Keeping to the upper edge of the rocks, it is necessary to
+ascend once at Kilrock, but after that the whole headland
+may be climbed at about the medium height of the cliffs.
+On the way a 'needle' or 'stack' will here and there
+attract attention, and perhaps seem worth assaulting. About
+Piper's Gut a small gully is difficult to pass. North of that
+a saddle rock leads to a pinnacle, but it is of rotten rock. The
+cliffs of this part of Howth are exceedingly picturesque, but
+in some places they are extremely unsafe. From Howth, on
+a very clear day, the Welsh hills, apparently those about
+Penmaenmawr, are visible.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ireland's Eye.</i> A small rocky island, 340 ft. high, about
+a mile north of Howth. At its north-east corner there
+is a bold columnar rock with a tabular summit, partly
+severed from the island. On its outer face it is very sheer,
+and to gain the summit is a very short but interesting and
+somewhat difficult climb. The return is not so bad, as a
+sidelong spring saves a portion of the worst bit.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Wicklow.</b>&mdash;Wicklow forms the third county in Ireland
+in which the mountains rise to a height of over 3,000 ft.,
+Kerry and Tipperary being the other two.</p>
+
+<p>The higher mountains lie in the broad band of granite
+formation which extends in a nearly southerly direction from
+near Dublin through Wicklow and Carlow counties.</p>
+
+<p>Being granite they are as a rule round masses of wide
+extent, often covered with peat bogs; so that although
+Wicklow contains the most continuous extent of elevated
+(over 1,000 ft.) moorland in Ireland, there are few cliffs of
+any consequence, and no peaks or summits presenting upon
+any side material of interest to the rock-climber. Nevertheless
+there are fine stretches of mountain, affording excellent
+training ground. What cliffs there are occupy the most
+lovely scenery in one of the loveliest Irish counties.</p>
+
+<p><i>Powerscourt Waterfall.</i>&mdash;The rocks to the left of the
+fall, which is kindly left open to the public by Lord Powerscourt,
+the popular landlord, are nasty, especially in wet or
+frosty weather. Although not much over 250 feet in height
+several lives have been lost in this ascent, chiefly, no doubt,
+owing to the inexperience of the unfortunate visitors. This
+dangerous though tempting portion has been for several years
+railed off, and is not supposed to be trespassed upon. During
+the severe winter of the present year (February 1895) the
+waterfall presented an Arctic appearance. An interesting
+account of an ascent of it, or rather of the above-mentioned
+rocks, was sent to an Irish paper in that month. The climb
+was effected by a friend of the writer's (a member of the
+Alpine Club) and another, with ropes and ice axes. The cliff<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>
+was covered with ice and snow. The same party ascended
+Djonce (2,384 ft.), which lies above the waterfall, during a
+blizzard at a temperature of 18&deg;, upon the same day. Unhappily
+a very few days afterwards a promising young life
+was lost upon these very rocks. The falls are visited by very
+large numbers of holiday-makers.</p>
+
+<p>The rocks of Powerscourt, which lie against the Wicklow
+granites, are composed of metamorphic beds of gneiss and
+schists. Powerscourt is about 7 miles from Bray.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tonelagee Mountain</i> ('Back to the Wind' Mountain)
+(2,694 ft.), a round mass of moorland, has on the northern
+shoulder a crater-like valley, containing a tarn, Lough
+Ouler, and cliffs of schistose, some 400 to 500 ft. high,
+descending from near the summit to the margin of the lake.
+An interesting scramble may be made from the Military
+Road, about a mile above Glenmacanass Waterfall, which
+lies some 6 miles from Glendalough Hotel; but a short cut
+to Lough Ouler is easily found by going up the Glendasan
+valley 3 miles towards Wicklow Gap, and then striking
+up northwards over the shoulder of Tonelagee.</p>
+
+<p>Wicklow county is very poor in highland plants, and
+these cliffs alone possess species of any interest.</p>
+
+<p>Other cliffs in county Wicklow are those of Luggielaw
+('Hollow of the Hill'), above Lough Tay; the Eagle's Nest,
+above Lower Lough Bray; a small series of bluffs above
+Lough Nahanagan, and the Prisons of Lugnaquilia. In winter
+the latter, lying high (2,700 to 3,039 ft.), afford excellent
+glissading and cornice work. But, unless the season is severe
+there is too much heavy trudging to be done. All the above<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>
+precipices lie in most attractive scenery, nor must the famous
+cliff above Glendalough, containing St. Kevin's Bed, be
+omitted. But none of them affords desirable scope for climbing
+practice. The granite 'Prisons' of Lugnaquilia are
+attractive in appearance, but all the cliff faces are ready to
+drop to pieces. Mullaghclevaun ('Summit with the Cradle'
+or 'Creel'), 2,783 ft., contains no climbing.</p>
+
+<p>Since Wicklow affords the nearest opportunities to Dublin
+mountaineers, we may mention a few one-day walks from
+that city which have been accomplished by the writer.</p>
+
+<p>Practically the only artery through these mountains is
+the <i>Military Road</i>, constructed after the rebellion of 1798 to
+connect a series of now disused barracks. This road, from
+'Billy's Bridge' at Upper Rathfarnham, about 5 miles
+from Dublin, is over 35 miles to Aughavanagh. It passes
+through an almost uninhabited country, and much of
+it lies from 1,000 to 1,500 feet above sea level, and it is the
+pedestrian's main anxiety to regain the comparative security
+of the Military Road before night sets in on the wide stretches
+of tussocky moorland.</p>
+
+<p>To clear the suburbs it is well to take the tram to Terenure
+(3 miles). Terenure; Ballinascorney Gap; Coronation Plantation
+(3 to 3&frac14; hours); Sally Gap; Military Road; Lough
+Bray (5 hours); back to Terenure (7&frac12; hours: 34 miles).</p>
+
+<p>Terenure; Lough Ouler; Tonelagee summit (6 hours);
+Mullaghclevaun summit (7&frac12; hours); Ballysmutton (9&frac12;
+hours); home by Ballinascorney Gap (13&frac12; hours: 48 miles).
+From Bray this walk is about 5 miles shorter.</p>
+
+<p>Bray, over Bray Head, Little Sugarloaf, Big Sugarloaf<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>
+(1,680 ft.), Djonce Mountain (2,384 ft.), and Kippure (2,473 ft.);
+Lough Bray, by Military Road, to Terenure: about 11 hours.</p>
+
+<p>Terenure; Ballinascorney Gap; Seacaun; Kippure;
+Lough Bray; Terenure (about 8 hours).</p>
+
+<p>Terenure; Lough Bray; Kippure (2&frac12; hours); Gravale
+(2,352 ft.); Duff Hill (2,364 ft.&mdash;very heavy going); Mullaghclevaun
+summit (6 hours); Tonelagee summit (7&frac12; hours);
+Lough Ouler; Military Road; Terenure (14 hours; about 50
+miles).</p>
+
+<p>Glendalough; Dublin (7&frac34; hours); Glendasan; Wicklow
+Gap; summit of Tonelagee (11 hours); summit of Mullaghclevaun;
+Clevaun Lake; Ballymullagh old road; across
+Liffey at Ballysmutton bridge; Ballinascorney Gap; Terenure
+(20 hours, including rests and delays by bog; 62 miles).</p>
+
+<p>Terenure; Lough Bray (3 hours); Laragh (7&frac12; hours);
+Glenmalure; Drumgoff Hotel (9 hours 5 minutes&mdash;1&frac12; hour's
+rest); Lugnaquilia (3,039 ft., 12&frac34; hours); Tonelagee summit
+(16&frac14; hours); Mullaghclevaun summit (17 hours 40 minutes);
+Ballysmutton farm (19 hours 40 minutes&mdash;35 min. rest);
+Ballinascorney Gap; Terenure (23 hours 50 minutes; 75
+miles).</p>
+
+<p>The ascent of Lugnaquilia direct from Glendalough, over
+Lugduff, round the head of Glenmalure, and up by Kelly's
+Lough is perhaps the finest walk in Wicklow.</p>
+
+<p>It is a fine day's walk along the coast from Bray to Arklow,
+or Bray to New Rath Bridge, and thence by the Devil's Glen
+to Glendalough.</p>
+
+<p>In a wild, uncultivated county, like Wicklow, experience
+in the use of map and compass may be gained by setting a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span>
+course from Woodenbridge to Glendalough, about 12
+miles, or from Glendalough to the Scalp or Sugarloaf, on
+the way to Dublin, some 40 miles.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Kerry.</b>&mdash;<i>Brandon</i> (3,127 ft.) is of the same formation as
+that of the Reeks, i.e. the lower old red sandstone. The
+Brandon rocks are, in general, hard grits, firm and good to
+climb.</p>
+
+<p>The accommodation on this promontory of Corkaguiny is
+no doubt improved since the construction of Mr. Balfour's
+light railway from Tralee to Dingle; but Dingle lies 8 miles
+to the south of Brandon.</p>
+
+<p>I obtained very inferior accommodation at Cloghane, on
+an inlet at the eastern base of the mountain; and cleaner and
+better, but not so convenient, from a coastguard at Ballydavid,
+to the west of Brandon. For the other mountains on the promontory,
+Castle Gregory is centrally situated, but in all these
+cases (except Dingle) it is highly advisable to make previous
+arrangements and supplement the native fare with a hamper.</p>
+
+<p>The coast of the Brandon promontory (which was traversed
+throughout) is often highly precipitous; indeed, from Cloghane
+on the north to Anniscaul on the south the western extremity
+is almost entirely so, and many stiff bits of climbing
+were accomplished, whether in pursuit of scenery, of a direct
+course, of objects of natural history, or, perhaps, more frequently
+out of what an Irishman would call 'natural divilment.'
+A few years ago no language would have sufficed in
+abuse of the accommodation at Anniscaul, but, as it is now a
+railway station, no doubt this is all changed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a href="images/i_189.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_189_s.jpg" width="400" height="375" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">KERRY</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Brandon Peak and Brandon Summit.</i>&mdash;The most
+enjoyable way to make the first acquaintance with these
+mountains is to ascend Connor Hill, to the north-west of
+Dingle, and follow the ridge by Beenduff, Ballysitteragh,
+Geashane, and Brandon Peak to the summit. The peak is
+about 400 ft. lower than and a little south of Brandon proper.
+Along this ridge, looking north and north-west, there is a fine
+rocky face before reaching the peak. After that point a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span>
+range of cliffs, several hundred feet in altitude, meets the
+loftier cliffs above Lake Nalacken, looking east. At the head
+of the Feany valley, under Brandon, these cliffs afford an
+interesting descent. The range gives plenty of practice in
+rock work.</p>
+
+<p>Alpine plants occur mainly on the north and north-east
+cliffs, and are more numerous than on the loftier Reeks.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brandon from Cloghane.</i>&mdash;From Cloghane the ascent
+may be made amongst fine cliffs and rock-climbing, by
+making south-east for Lough Cruttia, the largest lake under
+Brandon to its east. It is better to follow the road southwards
+a mile or two, to save uninteresting moorland. From
+this lake it is a short distance to the north-west of Lough
+Nalacken, and by striking in east at once to the cliffs a good
+climb is obtainable. Lough Cruttia is about 700 ft. above
+sea level. Between the upper lough and the cliffs the surface
+is a desolate extent of polished naked grits, strewn with
+boulders. Crossing this a somewhat dangerous gully leads
+up to the cliffs at about 1,650 ft. The ascent of this is about
+300 ft., and a stiff climb and afterwards some 400 ft. of cliffs
+may be tackled in various ways.</p>
+
+<p>There are numerous ledges, and it is the best botanical
+ground in the mountains. The cliffs 'go' splendidly. In a
+lake south of the two mentioned above, locally named Lough
+Bawn, or the 'White Lake,' lives the enormous 'carrabuncle.'
+It appears fitfully at night, glittering like silver in the water
+with gold and silver and precious stones hanging to it galore.
+It is partly covered with shells, which are lined with gold.
+Upon one occasion several men went to the lake at night and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span>
+dived in oilskins to catch this valuable monster. They did
+not catch him; but pearl mussels, no doubt shed from the
+carrabuncle, are found in the lake.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brandon Point and Brandon Head.</i>&mdash;From Cloghane
+it is a fine hard walk right round Brandon Point and
+Brandon Head. At the cliffs of Slieveglass (1,050 ft.) a bay
+of extreme grandeur is opened, bound on three sides by lofty
+precipices and with a depth and sea frontage of about half a
+mile. There is a shepherd's settlement, Arraghglin, on the
+coast, which has to be closely approached. A more bleak
+habitation can hardly be conceived; neither road nor even
+track leads to it. It is now several hours' work to round the
+sea face of Brandon Head, at altitudes varying from 500 to
+1,200 ft., to Ballydavid. If accommodation has not been
+arranged for here the walk to Dingle will be found most
+wearisome, and at all trouble a car should be provided.</p>
+
+<p><i>Macgillicuddy's Reeks</i> contain the highest summits
+in Ireland. They extend from the Gap of Dunloe, the
+eastern extremity, to the Beenbane spur near Glencar,
+about 10 miles west from the Gap. The scenery is magnificent.
+From Lake Auger, in the Gap, the climber ascends at
+once by a series of precipitous bluffs to an elevation of about
+2,000 ft. Still ascending along a serrated ridge, an elevation
+of about 3,000 ft. is reached above Lough Cummeenapeasta,
+about 2&frac12; miles west of the Gap of Dunloe. For several
+miles this ridge can be traversed at about the above
+altitude. The ridge frequently becomes a mere knife-edge,
+and in several places descends abruptly and precipitously to
+some of the numerous tarns and cooms nestling 1,000 to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>
+1,500 ft. below. A more perfect mountain excursion can
+hardly be conceived. The ridge carries us to the shoulder of
+Carran Tuohill, and from its summit a northern branch
+extends to Beenkeragh (3,314 ft.) and to Skregmore (2,790 ft.)
+The axis proper continues to Caher (3,200 ft.) and Curraghmore
+(2,680 ft.) Here we reach a gap connecting Cummeenacappul
+(Horse's Valley) with the Valleys of Caragh and
+Cummeenduff, or the Black Valley. West of it is the Beenbane
+spur, a lower elevation of no interest. The Reeks are
+chiefly composed of hard green and purple grits, and
+sandstone of old red sandstone age. The rocks are generally
+firm and safe to climb amongst.</p>
+
+<p>There is a comfortable angler's hotel at Glencar, at the
+western end of the Reeks. This is the best adapted for the
+immediate neighbourhood of the higher points, but to reach
+some of the most interesting climbing it is better to distribute
+one's attentions equally between Killarney and Glencar.
+From Killarney (Railway Hotel) two methods are available&mdash;one
+by car to the Gap of Dunloe, or further to the Hag's
+Glen, up a steep mountain road, and from either of these as
+starting-point some excellent rock work is available. From
+the Gap as starting-point a long day can be spent, descending
+at night to Glencar Hotel. The other method is to boat from
+Killarney (enjoying exquisite scenery) to Lord Brandon's
+cottage at the western extremity of the upper lake. Here
+begins a long, dull ascent, rewarded by the splendid view from
+the ridge into the heart of the Reeks. Or these routes can
+be reversed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a href="images/i_193.jpg">
+<img src="images/i_193_s.jpg" width="600" height="389" alt="" title="" />
+</a>
+<span class="caption">SKETCH MAP OF
+
+KILLARNEY</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Guides swarm here. None of these have the slightest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>knowledge of climbing, and should one be engaged the first
+deviation from the easiest ascent, or departure into gully or
+ravine, will put a conclusion to his services. A wiry, bragging,
+long-legged shepherd undertook to accompany the writer
+by any ascent he selected from the Hag's Glen to Carran
+Tuohill, to be paid five shillings at the summit. At the foot
+of the first gully, with many heart-felt remonstrances and
+gesticulations, he disappeared, not even thinking it worth
+while to make an easier ascent. On this account it is all
+the more necessary to be unfailingly provided with the
+Ordnance map and a thoroughly good compass. An aneroid
+barometer is also of great assistance, especially in mist, for
+a knowledge of the altitude often enables a lake or a peak to
+be identified.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cumloughra</i> (3,100 ft.)&mdash;Starting from Glencar Hotel,
+a few tedious miles bring us across a country road to Lake
+Acoose (507 ft.) Passing round the south edge of the lake, a
+ridge (about 900 ft.) is crossed, and ere long Lake Eighter, at
+the entrance to Cumloughra (1,500 ft.), is reached. If we
+pass along the shores of the lake to the south-western edge,
+a few hundred feet up an open gully brings us to a series of
+cliffs south-west from Cumloughra lake. The rock is sound,
+and a fine, almost vertical ascent of 1,000 ft. may be made,
+striking the ridge of Caher (3,000 ft.) 200 ft. below the
+summit. It is a severe climb and very long, entailing many
+zigzags. There is no main gully to adhere to, and the cliffs
+are less impracticable than they look. Along the west side
+of the two lakes the cliffs are easier.</p>
+
+<p><i>Carran Tuohill</i> (3,414 ft.)&mdash;Cars from Killarney stop<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>
+at the Geddagh River. Cross it, sweep to the right and
+back, and then follow the valley by a fair path between
+two lakes to the Devil's Ladder and up it to the <i>col</i>. The
+summit is then on the right hand. The writer was once
+fortunate enough to ascend this summit through a cloud layer
+of about 1,500 ft. thick, which ceased a short distance below
+the summit. Above was a clear blue sky, and peering out of
+the dense white, snowlike bed of mist Caher and Brandon (the
+latter 30 miles to the north-west, the former not a mile away)
+alone were visible&mdash;a never to be forgotten sight, which
+seemed shut out entirely from earthly considerations.
+Descending <i>into</i> the clouds, the ridge leading southwards
+towards Cummeenoughter, or Devil's Looking Glass (Upper
+Coom), was taken by mistake, and an exceedingly nasty
+traverse across huge, dangerously sloping slabs was necessary
+in order to regain Carran Tuohill and find the Caher ridge.</p>
+
+<p><i>Beenkeragh</i> (3,100 ft.)&mdash;Between Beenkeragh and
+Skregmore (2,600 ft.) there lies an inviting glen, sunk in
+black precipices. These cliffs are to be avoided. At several
+points an attempt was made to scale them, but the rock is
+most rotten. Near Beenkeragh is a ridge running a little
+west of north for half a mile, and bounding the Devil's
+Looking Glass and the Hag's Glen on their west. This ridge is
+reached by an easy gully known as the <i>Devil's Ladder</i>, about
+300 ft. below Beenkeragh.</p>
+
+<p><i>Devil's Looking Glass</i> (Cummeenoughter). This tarn
+lies at the head of the Hag's Glen, at an elevation of
+2,500 ft. It is three-parts encircled by a fine series of cliffs.
+At the western corner of this bold girth of precipices the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>
+finest view in the Reeks may be obtained, looking over the
+Looking Glass, and the lakes below in the Hag's Glen, across
+heights and peaks and valleys to Cummeenapeasta. Excellent
+climbing is to be had here. The rock is a purple sandstone,
+and one shoulder of an inaccessible appearance can be
+climbed throughout, owing to the firmness of grip and the
+recurrence of suggestive little footholds.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lake Auger</i> (Gap of Dunloe).&mdash;These cliffs terminate
+upwards in the Bull's Mountain at about 1,500 ft. The lake
+is about 350 ft. above sea level. Almost immediately after
+leaving the lake we come upon a series of bluffs and terraces
+occasionally communicating with one another, but more
+often uniting to form smooth-faced walls. Great care and
+discrimination have to be exercised in selecting ledges that do
+not terminate upon such faces, as there is little hand grip,
+and turning to retrace one's steps is most unpleasantly
+difficult and dangerous. The climbing here is most excellent
+and exciting, but the writer often felt sorely in need of a
+companion and a rope. It is in such places as these, inaccessible
+to sheep and goats, that hawkweeds occur, and
+in search of these, places were reached which rendered the
+summit of Bull's Mountain (when gained) extremely
+welcome.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Hag's Glen.</i>&mdash;Making the ascent from here to the
+westward, we reach another valley between Hag's Glen and
+Old Finglas River. At about 1,800 ft. a very black gully
+leads up to the main ridge from its northern side. It is
+occasionally blocked with huge masses of rock, which render
+d&eacute;tours along the boundary walls necessary, and, as is often<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>
+the case, it becomes very difficult afterwards to regain the
+gully. This gully is a very tough climb. The Hag's teeth
+(there are two) are conical knobs of no difficulty, along a
+ridge running into the glen.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lake Googh</i> (1,600 ft.)&mdash;This lake lies on the south
+side of the main axis of the Reeks. Above it rises to the
+northwards a series of coombs, or high-lying valleys, which
+can be traversed by separate and often interesting scrambles
+till the main ridge is reached. This is a very interesting
+ascent. It is often rather a matter of chance whether
+the gully selected will be available to its end for the next
+coomb level, and a retracement of steps will frequently
+have to be effected. Nothing is less pleasing than to have
+to go back down a gully which it was a small triumph
+to have ascended in safety. This valley is singularly dark,
+damp, and grand; and it is more rich in ferns than any
+other portion of the Reeks.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cloon Lake and Lough Reagh.</i>&mdash;Although these cliffs
+are not a portion of the Reeks, they are mentioned here
+as being easily reached from Glencar Hotel. They lie
+south of Lough Reagh, which is separated only by a
+marsh from Lough Cloon, and are a most superbly rugged
+cluster of sugar-loaf peaks huddled together and often
+separated by sheer precipices and inaccessible ravines.
+Unfortunately they are of easy access from the southern or
+Sneem side. Many gullies of sound rock occur. Bad weather
+on two different visits rendered climbing here an unpleasant
+experience, but enough was seen to enable the writer to
+pronounce the district well worthy of a visit. <i>Mount Aitchin</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span>
+(Whin Mount) is the chief summit. Golden eagles bred
+recently amongst these cliffs.</p>
+
+<p>Coming down once from these mountains towards
+Lough Reagh, facing northwards, in a blinding mist, an
+uncommon sort of descent was obtained. Not knowing the
+nature of the ground, or indeed our whereabouts, we
+struck blindly over a declivity, turning at length to a
+sheer cliff whose termination was invisible. This cliff or
+series of cliffs is broken into ledges, all coated with a long
+growth of woodrush. Glissading and holding on brought us
+in unexpected safety to the valley below. Return would have
+been impossible by the way of our descent.</p>
+
+<p>Other mountains in the neighbourhood of Killarney
+are <i>Mangerton</i> (2,756 ft.); <i>Toomies</i> (2,415 ft.); <i>Purple
+Mountain</i> (2,739 ft.); <i>Turc Mountain</i> (1,764 ft.), and
+the <i>Paps</i> (2,268 ft.) Of these none afford any real climbing.
+On Mangerton, however, the Horse's Glen is surrounded
+by rocky declivities, and the Devil's Punch Bowl has a
+slight cliff above it. From Killarney by rail to Headfort,
+and then back over the Paps and Mangerton, and through
+the Horse's Glen, is a fine walk. Another fine walk
+is from the lake, whither one proceeds from Killarney by
+boat, up Toomies Mountain, over Purple Mountain, and Turc
+Mountain, and Mangerton can be included on the way back.</p>
+
+<p>The Eagle's Cliff, above the lake, looks climbable and is
+reported to have been done. The writer, hurrying to the
+Reeks, always grudged time for the attempt.</p>
+
+<p><i>Blasquets Islands</i> lie off the extreme west of Kerry. They
+consist generally of grits and slates.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Barrington (<i>Report on the Flora, &amp;c.</i>) describes the
+Great Blasquet as a ridge about 700 ft. high for most of its
+length, but for about a mile it exceeds 900 ft. The ridge
+is almost perpendicular in many places. 'The cliffs and
+precipices are very grand, notably the north-western face
+of the Great Blasquet and the north-eastern portion of
+Inishnabro, which latter resembles, when viewed from the
+sea, a cathedral 500 ft. high, the towers, spires, and even
+doors and windows being represented. Inishtooskert has
+an isolated pinnacle of rock, with a great chasm in the cliff
+near it, scarcely less striking. The Tearaght is like a black
+tooth projecting from the ocean, its sides being rocky, desolate,
+and very barren.' The present writer was prevented from
+reaching these islands by stormy weather.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Co. Cork.</b>&mdash;<i>Sugarloaf Mountain</i> (2,440 ft.)&mdash;An isolated,
+bare, conical peak, at the head of the Black Valley (Cummeenduff),
+the southern boundary of the Reeks. Sunshine after rain
+makes it glitter like a snowy peak. The rock is steep and
+glaciated. On the steepest face an interesting ascent may be
+made&mdash;easy, but requiring extreme care.</p>
+
+<p>South of the Kenmare River the hills are of less interest,
+though the beautiful Glengariff lies amongst them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hungry Hill</i> (2,251 ft.) presents one precipitous face to
+the west, where a piece of interesting gully work occurs. The
+writer has reason to remember it, owing to the imprisonment
+of a bull-terrier, the property of a companion, in the middle
+of the climb. After completing the ascent the deafening
+howls of the prisoner made it necessary to work round to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>
+base of the gully and help the beloved creature down. An
+almost identical incident occurred in a worse situation in the
+Poisoned Glen of Donegal. A bit of rope should be attached
+to the neck of any dog that follows a rock-climber.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gougaun Barra</i> ('St. Fin Bar's Rock-Cleft') is a gorge
+on the road west from Macroom to Bantry. The cliffs around
+rise from a desolate valley to meet the slopes of the mountains,
+1,700-1,800 ft. high.</p>
+
+<p>On the road Keimaneigh ('the Pass of the Deer') is
+traversed, a gorge through the Sheha hills some 2 miles in
+length. It is a scene of wild beauty, and was the head-quarters
+of the band under 'Captain' Rock. This defile can
+be visited from Inchigeelagh, a few miles eastwards, where
+there is good fishing and accommodation.</p>
+
+<p>On Gougaun Barra, Otway (<i>Scenes and Sketches in
+Ireland</i>) and Smith (<i>History of Cork)</i> have a good deal to say.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Tipperary.</b>&mdash;<i>The Galtee Mountains</i> extend about
+15 miles from Caher at the eastern to Massy Lodge at
+the western extremity. The ridge slopes gently to the south,
+but abruptly to the vale of Aherlow on the north.</p>
+
+<p>The formation is Silurian, with overlying beds of old red
+sandstone conglomerate forming the summit of Galtymore
+(3,018 ft.) The Silurian beds form considerable precipices
+upon the north, almost enclosing numerous tarns, from which
+interesting ascents may be made.</p>
+
+<p>The best head-quarters for the mountains is Tipperary,
+about 6 miles north of the base of the range below its highest
+point. No doubt, however, accommodation could be arranged<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span>
+for at some of the farmhouses in the vale of Aherlow. The
+entire range from Caher to Mitchelstown forms a splendid
+walk. Lough Curra and Lough Muskry are the most interesting
+points to make for, and lie amongst the finest cliffs.
+Lough Diheen is the most remote and barren.</p>
+
+<p>At Lough Curra the cliffs descend 1,000 ft. sheer into
+the water. These cliffs afford attractive but dangerous
+climbing. They reach to within a couple of hundred feet of
+the highest point, known as Dawson's Table, or Galtymore.</p>
+
+<p>Still grander, however, are the cliffs above Lough Muskry.
+These tower to a height of about 1,200 ft. in great terraces
+and vegetated walls above the north and north-east ends of
+the lake. Numerous clefts, ravines, and ledges exist.</p>
+
+<p>Should the climber get pounded here (as not seldom
+happens) let him beware of undue haste. A mouthful of food
+has a wonderful effect in steadying the nerves. The holds
+here are often sods of dubious security, and the Muskry precipices,
+though they <i>can</i> be traversed in all directions, are the
+severest amongst the Galtees.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p><b>Co. Waterford.</b> <i>Commeragh Mountains.</i>&mdash;The Commeragh
+Mountains may be explored from Kilmacthomas
+on the south, Clonmell on the west, or Caher on the north.
+They form an elevated plateau, bounded on all sides by steep
+and frequently inaccessible precipices, which enclose cooms
+and tarns. The highest point is 2,597 ft., and the rock is for
+the most part sandstone or conglomerate of the old red sandstone
+period. Slates and shales occur on the northern side.</p>
+
+<p>The cliffs can be climbed in many places. As on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span>
+Galtees, a few miles west, dense masses of a species of woodrush
+often render the holding treacherous. Smith (<i>History of
+Waterford</i>, 1774) says, 'On the sides of this chain there are
+many horrid precipices, and steep declivities, with large naked
+rocks. In the valleys considerable chips, or parings, lie in
+prodigious heaps.'</p>
+
+<p>The most imposing precipices are those enclosing in a
+magnificent sweep the Stilloge Lakes, on the south side of the
+group; and those above Coonshingaun Lough and Crotty's
+Lough at the eastern end.</p>
+
+<p>This east lake takes its name from one Crotty, an outlaw,
+who made his home in a cave here during the last century.
+Legends of this worthy abound in the district.</p>
+
+<p>The cliffs are often wholly inaccessible without a rope,
+but a great deal of excellent climbing can be effected with no
+artificial aids. In search of rare plants the writer has made
+several distinct ascents above the Stilloges, and also at
+Coonshingaun, quite apart from the easier gully tracks, by
+which the ordinary visitor gains the top. The mountains are
+singularly picturesque. The verdure-clad cliffs, overhanging
+the deep, rock-bound, lonely tarns, have an effect that is at
+once rare and beautiful.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>INDEX</h2>
+
+<table summary="links for each letter of the index" style="width:75%;" border="1">
+	<tr>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_A">A</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_B">B</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_C">C</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_D">D</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_E">E</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_F">F</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_G">G</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_H">H</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_I">I</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_J">J</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_K">K</a></td>
+	</tr>
+	<tr>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_L">L</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_M">M</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_N">N</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_O">O</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_P">P</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_R">R</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_S">S</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_T">T</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_W">W</a></td>
+		<td>  <a href="#IX_Y">Y</a></td>
+	</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_A" name="IX_A"></a>Aber, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li>
+<li>Aberglaslyn, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+<li>Abergynolwyn, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Accidents, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li>
+<li>Achill, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
+<li>Anglesey, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>Antrim, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
+<li>Aranmore Island, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li>
+<li>Arans (The), <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+<li>Arenig Fawr, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+<li>Asko Keeran, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_B" name="IX_B"></a>Bala, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
+<li>Barmouth, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
+<li>Barnesmore Gap, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li>
+<li>Beddgelert, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li>
+<li>Beddgelert (Snowdon from), <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li>
+<li>Beenkeragh, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
+<li>Ben Bulben, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li>
+<li>Benchoona, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li>
+<li>Benglog, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+<li>Berwyn Mountains, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Bethesda, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>Bird Rock, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
+<li>Black Ladders, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+<li>Black Mountains, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li>
+<li>Blaenau Ffestiniog, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Blasquets, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+<li>Blue Stack, <a href="#Page_152">152</a></li>
+<li>Braichddu, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+<li>Brandon, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
+<li>Brecon Beacons, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Bronyfedw, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+<li>Bryansford, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
+<li>Bull's Mountain, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li>
+<li>Bunglas, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li>
+<li>Burton Port, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li>
+<li>Bwlch Cwm y Llan, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+<li>Bwlch Goch, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+<li>Bwlch y Saethau, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_C" name="IX_C"></a>Caddy of Cwm Glas, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+<li>Cader Fronwen, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Cader Idris, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
+<li>Cambrian Railway, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+<li>Capel Curig, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li>
+<li>Carnarvonshire, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Carndonagh, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
+<li>Carnedd Dafydd, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li>
+<li>Carnedd Llewelyn, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+<li>Carnedd Ugain, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+<li>Carnedd y Filiast, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>'Carrabuncle' (The), <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li>
+<li>Carran Tuohill, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li>
+<li>Carrick Hotel, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li>
+<li>Carrig-a-Rede, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li>
+<li>Castell Cidwm, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+<li>Castell Gwynt, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li>
+<li>Castles (The), <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
+<li>Cefnysgolion Duon, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li>
+<li>Clare Co., <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li>
+<li>Clew Bay, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
+<li>Cloghane, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
+<li>Clogwyn Aderyn, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Clogwyn Penllechen, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Clogwyn y Garnedd, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+<li>Clogwyn y Person, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Clogwyndur Arddu, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+<li>Closs (Death of), <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+<li>Cnicht, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+<li>Commeragh Mountains, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li>
+<li>Cork Co., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
+<li>Corris, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Cox (Mr.), <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
+<li>Craig Ddrwg, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+<li>Craig Eryri, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Craig y Bera, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Craig yr Ysfa, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li>Craiglyn Dyfi, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+<li>Crazy Pinnacle, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+<li>Crib Goch, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+<li>Crib y Ddysgl, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+<li>Croagh Patrick, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
+<li>Croghaun, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li>
+<li>Cumloughra, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li>
+<li>Cwm Creigiog, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
+<li>Cwm Dyli, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+<li>Cwm Glas, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+<li>Cwm y Llan, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+<li>Cyfrwy, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li>
+<li>Cynfael Falls, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Cynicht, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_D" name="IX_D"></a>Dawson's Table, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li>
+<li>Denbighshire, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Devil's Kitchen, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>Devil's Looking Glass, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
+<li>Devil's Punch Bowl, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+<li>Dinas Bran, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Dinas Mawddwy, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li>
+<li>Dingle, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
+<li>Dismore (Mr.), <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Dolgelly, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li>
+<li>Donegal, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li>
+<li>Down Co., <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
+<li>Dublin Co., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
+<li>Dunaff Head, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li>
+<li>Dunfanaghy, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li>
+<li>Dungloe, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li>
+<li>Dunloe (Gap of), <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_E" name="IX_E"></a>Eagle's Cliff, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+<li>Eagle's Nest, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li>
+<li>Eglwyseg, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Elicydu, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Elider, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Empson (Mr.), <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
+<li>Errigal, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li>
+<li>Esgair Felen, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li>
+<li>Evans (Mr. Alf.), <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_F" name="IX_F"></a>Fair Head, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
+<li>Fanet, <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li>
+<li>Ffestiniog, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Foelgoch, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li>
+<li>Frodsham (Mr. G. H.), <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_G" name="IX_G"></a>Gallt y Wenallt, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li>Galtee Mountains, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li>
+<li>Galway, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li>
+<li>Gap of Doonmore, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li>
+<li>Gap of Dunloe, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li>
+<li>Garnedd Goch, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+<li>Giant's Causeway, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li>
+<li>Glaslyn, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Glen Car, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li>
+<li>Glen Gesh, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li>
+<li>Glen Head, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li>
+<li>Glenariff, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li>
+<li>Glenbeagh, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li>
+<li>Glengad Head, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
+<li>Glengariff, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
+<li>Glyder Fach, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li>
+<li>Glyder Fawr, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li>
+<li>Golf, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li>
+<li>Gougaun Barra, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li>
+<li>Grey Man's Path, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li>
+<li>Guides, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li>
+<li>Gweedore, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_H" name="IX_H"></a>Hag's Glen, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li>
+<li>Haseler (Mr. Maxwell), <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+<li>Hill names, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li>
+<li>Homer (Mr. Philip), <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Horn Head, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li>
+<li>Howth, <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li>
+<li>Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Hungry Hill, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_I" name="IX_I"></a>Inishowen, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
+<li>Ireland's Eye, <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_J" name="IX_J"></a>Jackson (Rev. James), <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_K" name="IX_K"></a>Keimaneigh, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li>
+<li>Kendal (Mr. E. G.), <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li>Kerry Co., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li>
+<li>Killarney, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li>
+<li>Killary, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li>
+<li>Kingsley (Charles), <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+<li>King's Mountain, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li>
+<li>Kinlough, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_L" name="IX_L"></a>Lambay, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
+<li>Leenane Inn, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li>
+<li>Lisdoonvarna, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li>
+<li>Livesley (Mr.), <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+<li>Llaithnant, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li>
+<li>Llanberis, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Llangynog, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+<li>Llechog, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+<li>Lliwedd, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li>Llyndulyn, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>Lough Eske, <a href="#Page_152">152</a></li>
+<li>Lough Muskry, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li>
+<li>Lough Salt, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li>
+<li>Lough Swilly, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li>
+<li>Lugnaquilia, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_M" name="IX_M"></a>Maamtrasna, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li>
+<li>Maamturk, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li>
+<li>Macgillicuddy's Reeks, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li>
+<li>Machynlleth, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>MacSwyne's Gun, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li>
+<li>Maentwrog Road, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>Malin Head, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li>
+<li>Mangerton, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+<li>Marble Arch, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li>
+<li>Marzials (Miss), <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+<li>Maum Glen, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li>
+<li>Mayo Co., <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li>
+<li>Melynllyn, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+<li>Merionethshire, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+<li>Mitchell (Mr. J.), <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+<li>Moel Eilio, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+<li>Moel Hebog, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+<li>Moel Siabod, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li>
+<li>Moel Sych, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Moel Wyn, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+<li>Moher Cliffs, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li>
+<li>Montgomeryshire, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Mount Aitchin, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li>
+<li>Mourne Mountains, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
+<li>Muckanaght, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
+<li>Muckish, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li>
+<li>Mweelrea, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li>
+<li>Mynydd Mawr, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_N" name="IX_N"></a>Nantlle, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li>
+<li>Nephin, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li>
+<li>Newcastle, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_O" name="IX_O"></a>Ogwen Cottage, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li>
+<li>One Man's Pass, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li>
+<li>Orme's Head, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li>Owen (Harry), <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_P" name="IX_P"></a>Paget (Mr.), <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
+<li>Pantylluchfa, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li>
+<li>Parson's Nose, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li>Payne (Mr.), <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li>
+<li>Pen Helig, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+<li>Penmaenmawr, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li>
+<li>Penygroes, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li>
+<li>Penygwrhyd, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li>
+<li>Penyroleuwen, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li>
+<li>'Phouca' (The), <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li>
+<li>Pleaskin Head, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li>
+<li>Poisoned Glen, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li>
+<li>Portsalon, <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li>
+<li>Powerscourt, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li>
+<li>Prisons of Lugnaquilia, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li>
+<li>Purple Mountain, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_R" name="IX_R"></a>Rhayader, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Rhinog Fawr, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+<li>Rosapenna, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li>
+<li>Rostrevor, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_S" name="IX_S"></a>St. Kevin's Bed, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li>
+<li>Slanting Gully, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+<li>Slieve Donard, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
+<li>Slieve Glas, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li>
+<li>Slieve League, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li>
+<li>Smith (Death of), <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
+<li>Snowdon, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Snowdon Ranger, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li>
+<li>Southey benighted, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Spellick, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li>
+<li>Stacks, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li>
+<li>Starr (Rev. H. W.), <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+<li>Stilloge Lakes, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li>
+<li>Sturrell, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_T" name="IX_T"></a>Tanybwlch, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li>
+<li>Tonelagee, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li>
+<li>Tormore, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li>
+<li>Tory Island, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li>
+<li>Trigfylchau, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
+<li>Tryfaen, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li>
+<li>Twelve Bens or Pins, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li>
+<li>Twll Du, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_W" name="IX_W"></a>Waterford Co., <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li>
+<li>Wicklow Co., <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li>
+<li>Williams (W.), <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+<li>Wills (Mr.), <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
+<li>Wilton (Mr. F. R.), <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a id="IX_Y" name="IX_Y"></a>Y Garn, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li>
+<li>Y Wyddfa, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li>
+<li>Yr Elen, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p class="center">PRINTED BY
+SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
+LONDON</p>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">&nbsp;[1]&nbsp;</span></a> <i>Boy's Own Paper</i>, May 5, 1894.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">&nbsp;[2]&nbsp;</span></a> The <i>Times</i>, April 16, 1873, p. 6.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">&nbsp;[3]&nbsp;</span></a> The <i>Times</i>, September 9, 1876, p. 8.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">&nbsp;[4]&nbsp;</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> April 7, 1885, p. 7.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">&nbsp;[5]&nbsp;</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> August 3, 1885, p. 10.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">&nbsp;[6]&nbsp;</span></a> The <i>Times</i>, August 25, 1885, p. 6, and August 27, p. 8. See also
+the <i>Times</i>, October 2, 1837, p. 3.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">&nbsp;[7]&nbsp;</span></a> Tremadoc, 1875.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">&nbsp;[8]&nbsp;</span></a> <i>Alpine Journal</i>, vol. ix. p. 384.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">&nbsp;[9]&nbsp;</span></a> Mackintosh, p. 809.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">&nbsp;[10]&nbsp;</span></a> See the <i>Journal of the Royal Meteorological Society</i> for April
+1893, xix. No. 86, for a summary of the temperatures thus recorded.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">&nbsp;[11]&nbsp;</span></a> Vol. vi. p. 195.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">&nbsp;[12]&nbsp;</span></a> See the <i>Doncaster Chronicle</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">&nbsp;[13]&nbsp;</span></a> The <i>Times</i>, July 2, 6, 8, and 15, 1875.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">&nbsp;[14]&nbsp;</span></a> See the <i>Times</i>, June 25, 1861.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">&nbsp;[15]&nbsp;</span></a> The <i>Times</i>, January 29 and February 7, 1879; <i>Chambers's
+Journal</i>, May 7, 1887.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">&nbsp;[16]&nbsp;</span></a> Vol. xi. p. 239.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">&nbsp;[17]&nbsp;</span></a> The <i>Times</i>, 1846, October 14, October 24, October 30, November
+3, and 1847, June 5; the <i>Globe</i>, October 1846; <i>Chambers's Journal</i>,
+May 1887.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">&nbsp;[18]&nbsp;</span></a> See the <i>Philosophical Transactions</i>, p. 294, of that year.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">&nbsp;[19]&nbsp;</span></a> <i>Gentleman's Magazine</i>, 1768.</p></div>
+
+<p class="transnote">Transcriber's note:<br />
+The alternate spellings Carnarvonshire and Caernarvonshire both appear
+in the original. I have left them as written (both are accepted
+spellings).<br />
+Inconsistent hyphenation and dashes (e.g. number-ft vs. number ft) are left as written.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,5758 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Climbing in The British Isles, Vol. II, by
+W. P. Haskett Smith and H. C. Hart
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Climbing in The British Isles, Vol. II
+       Wales and Ireland
+
+Author: W. P. Haskett Smith
+        H. C. Hart
+
+Illustrator: Ellis Carr
+
+Release Date: September 21, 2011 [EBook #37502]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CLIMBING IN BRITISH ISLES, VOL II ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Anna Hall and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  CLIMBING IN THE BRITISH ISLES
+  _WALES AND IRELAND_
+
+
+
+
+  CLIMBING IN THE BRITISH ISLES
+
+  _3 vols. 16mo. Sold separately._
+
+
+  I.--ENGLAND. By W. P. HASKETT SMITH, M.A.,
+    Member of the Alpine Club. With 23
+    Illustrations by Ellis Carr, Member of the
+    Alpine Club, and 5 Plans. 3_s._ 6_d._
+
+
+  II.--WALES AND IRELAND. By W. P. HASKETT SMITH,
+    M.A., and H. C. HART, Members of the Alpine
+    Club. With 31 Illustrations by ELLIS CARR and
+    others, and 9 Plans. 3_s._ 6_d._
+
+
+  III.--SCOTLAND.
+
+[_In preparation._]
+
+
+London and New York: LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO.
+
+
+
+
+  CLIMBING
+  IN
+  THE BRITISH ISLES
+
+  _II--WALES AND IRELAND_
+
+  =WALES=
+
+  BY W. P. HASKETT SMITH, M.A.
+  Member of the Alpine Club
+
+  =IRELAND=
+
+  BY H. C. HART
+  Member of the Alpine Club; Fellow of the Linnean Society
+  Member of the Royal Irish Academy, etc.
+
+  WITH THIRTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS BY
+  ELLIS CARR
+   Member of the Alpine Club
+  _and others_
+  AND NINE PLANS
+
+
+  LONDON
+  LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
+  AND NEW YORK
+  1895
+
+  _All rights reserved_
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+The present volume is intended to deal with all parts of the British
+Isles except England, which was the subject of Vol. I., and Scotland, to
+which Vol. III. will be devoted. Nothing is here said about the _Isle of
+Man_ or the Channel Islands, because it would, no doubt, be considered
+absurd to advise anyone to visit those islands whose main object was the
+acquisition of mountaineering skill. Pretty as the former island is, its
+hills are nothing more than hills, except where they are also railways
+or tea gardens; and even on its cliffs, which are especially fine at the
+southern end, comparatively little climbing will be found.
+
+In the _Channel Islands_, on the other hand, the granite cliffs, though
+very low, being usually only 100-200 ft. high, abound in instructive
+scrambles. Many such will be found in Guernsey, Jersey, and especially
+in Sark, but the granite is not everywhere of equally good quality.
+
+The _Scilly Isles_, again, are by no means to be despised by climbers,
+especially by such of them as can enjoy knocking about in a small boat,
+which is almost the only means of getting from climb to climb. The
+granite forms are somewhat wilder and more fantastic than those in the
+Channel Islands. Peninnis Head is only one of many capital scrambling
+grounds. An article by Dr. Treves[1] gives a very good idea of the kind
+of thing which may be expected. If anyone should think of proceeding,
+under the guidance of this volume, to regions with which he is so far
+unacquainted, he will naturally ask how the climbing here described
+compares with the climbing in other parts of Britain or of Europe. How
+does Wales, for instance, stand with regard to Cumberland or the Alps?
+On this point some good remarks will be found in the _Penny Magazine_,
+vii., p. 161 (1838), where the writer assigns to the more northern hills
+a slight superiority over Wales. An impression prevails among those who
+know both that the weather of N. Wales is, if possible, more changeable
+than that of the Lakes. Climbers will notice this chiefly in winter,
+when the snow on the Welsh mountains less frequently settles into sound
+condition. Perhaps sudden changes of temperature are partly to blame for
+the greater frequency in Wales of deaths from exposure. Winter climbing
+is very enjoyable, but proper precautions must be taken against the
+cold. A writer on Wales some 300 years ago observes that 'the cold Aire
+of these Mountainous Regions by an Antiperistasis keeps in and
+strengthens the internall heat;' but a good woollen sweater, a warm cap
+to turn down over the ears and neck, and three pairs of gloves, two
+pairs on and one pair dry in the pocket, will be found quite as
+effectual. Dangers, however, cease not with the setting sun, and many
+who have defied frost-bite during the day fall an easy prey to
+rheumatism in bed at night. A groundless terror of the Welsh language
+keeps many away from Wales. The names are certainly of formidable
+appearance, and Barham's lines are hardly an exaggeration.
+
+  [1] _Boy's Own Paper_, May 5, 1894.
+
+    For the vowels made use of in Welsh are so few
+    That the A and the E and the I, O, and U
+    Have really but little or nothing to do.
+    And the duty, of course, falls the heavier by far
+    On the L and the H, and the N and the R.
+    The first syllable PEN is pronounceable; then
+    Come two LL and two HH, two FF, and an N.
+
+But appalling words like 'Slwch Twmp' or 'Cwmtrwsgl' lose half their
+venom when it is explained that W is only a way of writing OO. In spite
+of its apparent complication the language is so simple and systematic
+that anyone can learn enough in a quarter of an hour to enable him to
+pronounce with ease and moderate accuracy any place-name with which he
+is likely to meet. Irish is less regular, but wonderfully rich in
+expressions for slightly varying physical features, while the Manx names
+are more interesting than the hills by which they are borne.
+
+In comparison with the Alps what was said in Vol. I. of Cumberland
+applies equally well to Wales, and nearly as well to Kerry or Donegal.
+The most striking peculiarity of Irish mountains is, next to the size of
+the bogs, the large amount of car-driving which has to be done before
+and after the day's work. But this is an intrusion on the province of
+another. Old Thomas Fuller, on sitting down to write a detailed account
+of Wales, which he had never seen, genially remarked that 'it matters
+not how meanly skilled a writer is so long as he hath knowing and
+communicative friends.' That precisely describes the Editor's position,
+especially with regard to Ireland, to the treatment of which no other
+man could have brought knowledge at once so wide and so accurate as Mr.
+Hart. Unfortunately he, like his own 'carrabuncle,' was somewhat
+elusive. After months of mysterious silence he would glide into sight,
+great with solid mountaineering matter, gleaming with pearls of botany
+and gems of geologic lore; but, alas! in another moment the waters of
+bronchitis, or influenza, or inertia would close over the mysterious
+monster's back, and he would glide away into unknown depths where the
+harpoon of the penny post was harmless and telegrams tickled him in
+vain. Now the carrabuncle is caught at last, and readers will be well
+repaid for a few months' delay. They will be astonished that one pair of
+eyes could take in so much, and that one pair of legs could cover so
+much ground.
+
+Among many other 'knowing and communicative friends' the Editor would
+especially dwell on his indebtedness to Mr. F. H. Bowring and to Mr. O.
+G. Jones. The latter has contributed the whole of the section dealing
+with the Arans and Cader Idris, and his minute knowledge of that region
+will be evident from the fact that the quantity which our space has
+allowed us to print represents less than half of the matter originally
+supplied by him.
+
+For most of the sketches we are again indebted to Mr. Ellis Carr, for a
+striking view of Tryfaen to Mr. Colin Phillips, and for the remainder
+(taken under most cruel conditions of weather) to Mr. Harold Hughes of
+Bangor.
+
+                                                  W. P. H. S.
+
+  _August 1895._
+
+
+
+
+CLIMBING IN THE BRITISH ISLES
+
+
+
+
+WALES
+
+WHERE TO STAY
+
+
+=Aber.=--This station on the Chester and Holyhead Railway is in no sense
+a centre for mountaineers, though a good deal of work _may_ be done from
+it. We ourselves 'in our hot youth, when George the Third was King,' and
+a dozen miles extra tramping at the end of a day was a mere trifle,
+managed to do many of the mountains of North Wales from it.
+
+Its only attraction is a pretty valley, at the head of which are some
+not very striking waterfalls. The surrounding rocks have, however, been
+the scene of a surprising number of accidents. Most of these have been
+caused by slipping on the path which crosses the steep slope of the
+eastern bank and leads to the head of the main fall. Such was the fatal
+accident on April 13, 1873, to Mr. F. T. Payne, a barrister. His sight
+was very defective, and this fact goes far towards accounting for the
+accident.[2]
+
+  [2] The _Times_, April 16, 1873, p. 6.
+
+In 1876 a very similar case occurred. A young man called Empson, who was
+staying at Llanfairfechan, was killed in descending, apparently at the
+very same spot.[3]
+
+  [3] The _Times_, September 9, 1876, p. 8.
+
+In April 1885 Mr. Maitland Wills, described as an expert mountaineer,
+while walking with two friends from Capel Curig to Aber, fell near the
+same spot, and was instantly killed.[4]
+
+  [4] _Ibid._ April 7, 1885, p. 7.
+
+In August of the same year Mr. Paget, the Hammersmith Police Magistrate,
+fell and was severely hurt.[5] And these by no means exhaust the list of
+casualties, which is, perhaps, only second in length to that of Snowdon
+itself. It may be mentioned that there is a climb or two on the west and
+steeper side of the falls.
+
+  [5] _Ibid._ August 3, 1885, p. 10.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Bala=, reached from London in about 7 hours by the Great Western line,
+is a very pleasant place to stop at on entering Wales, being situated at
+the foot of the finest natural sheet of water in the Principality, and
+having railway facilities in three directions. By the aid of the rail
+Cader Idris, the Arans, and the Rhinogs can be easily got at. For the
+first mountains Dolgelly, for the second Drwsynant and Llanuwchllyn, for
+the third Maentwrog would be the best stations. This is also the best
+place for Arenig Fawr, which can be done on foot all the way, or better
+by taking the train to Arenig station and returning by rail from
+Llanuwchllyn after crossing the hill. Lord Lyttelton made Bala famous
+last century. What he said of it will sufficiently appear from some
+lines (long since erased by the indignant ladies of Bala) which were
+once to be seen in a visitors' book here:--
+
+    Lord Lyttelton of old gave out
+    To all the world that Bala trout
+    Have all the sweetness that pervades
+    The laughing lips of Bala's maids.
+    Which did his Lordship mean to flout?
+    For fact it is that Bala trout
+    (Ask any fisherman you meet)
+    Are bad to catch, but worse to eat.
+    O Maid of Bala, ere we part,
+    'Tis mine to bind thy wounded heart;
+    And in thy favour testify--
+    Though seldom sweet, thou'rt never shy!
+
+There is, however, one objection to this epigram, for the poet talks of
+trout and the peer of Gwyniad; let us, therefore, hope that in regard to
+the fair as well as the fish the poet's harsh judgment was equally
+unsound.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Barmouth=, a capital place from which to visit the Rhinog range and
+Cader Idris; and the Cambrian Railway extends the range of operations in
+three directions, so that even Snowdon is within the possibilities of a
+single day's excursion. There is excellent climbing practice to be had,
+not only just outside the town, but actually within it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Beddgelert= (i.e. 'Gelert's Grave') is one of the gates of Snowdonia,
+and it is the gate by which the judicious will enter. It is, moreover,
+perhaps the prettiest mountain resort in Wales. Penygwrhyd is more
+central for climbers pure--and simple--but has no pretensions to beauty
+of situation; Llanberis has its railway facilities, its quarries, and
+its trippers; Bettws y Coed is delicious, but it is right away from the
+mountains. For combination of the beauties of mountain, water, and
+wooded plain Dolgelly is the only rival of Beddgelert. Snowdon on the
+north, Moel Hebog on the west, and Cynicht and Moelwyn on the east are
+enough to make the fortune of any place as a mountaineer's abode, even
+if there were no Pass of Aberglaslyn close by.
+
+The nearest station is Rhyd-ddu, on the Snowdon Ranger line, nearly 4
+miles off, and it is uphill nearly all the way. To Portmadoc, on the
+other hand, the distance is greater, 6 or 7 miles, but the road is
+fairly level, and nearly every step of it is beautiful, both in winter
+and in summer. Indeed, there was a time when winter in this romantic
+village was more enjoyable than summer, for in warm weather the eye was
+much obstructed by the hand which held the nose; but that was many years
+ago. The ascent of Snowdon from this side used to be the most
+frequented, but in the race for popularity it has long been distanced by
+Llanberis. It is a good path, and easily found. The start is made along
+the Carnarvon road for some three miles to the Pitt's Head; then up the
+hill to the right to Llechog, and across the once dreaded Bwlch y Maen.
+A more direct and very fine route leads straight up and over the ridge
+of Yr Aran, joining the regular path just short of Bwlch-y-Maen. By
+going up the Capel Curig some 3-1/2 miles, and taking the turn to the
+left more than half a mile beyond Llyn y Ddinas, Sir Edward Watkin's
+path up Cwmyllan may be utilised; but at the cost of 3-1/2 miles' extra
+walking along the same road the far finer ascent by Cwm Dyli may be
+made. This is the same as that from Penygwrhyd, but with the advantage
+of including the lowest portion and waterfalls of Cwm Dyli, which are
+extremely fine. The classical climbs of Snowdonia are within reach for
+good walkers, but others will find abundance of opportunities for
+practice within a mile or two, and for the Garnedd Goch range (which has
+in it some choice bits) there is no better base. The road to Portmadoc
+on the south and to Penygwrhyd on the north are not only among the most
+beautiful in the kingdom, but present the most alluring of problems to
+the rock climber within a stone's throw. There is a corner of the road
+about 6 miles from Beddgelert where Crib Goch shows over a foot-hill of
+Lliwedd, and a rocky ridge runs down from the east almost on to the
+road. This ridge, though broken, bears some very choice bits, including
+a certain wide, short chimney facing south.
+
+A separate guide-book to this place (by J. H. Bransby) appeared in 1840,
+and there have been several since, among the best being one published at
+the modest price of one penny by Abel Heywood.
+
+The place plays a great part in Charles Kingsley's _Two Years Ago_, and
+it was at the 'Goat' Inn here that George Borrow was so furious at the
+want of deference with which his utterances were received by the
+company.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Benglog=, at the foot of Llyn Ogwen and the head of Nant Ffrancon, is
+only second to Penygwrhyd as a climbing centre, but, unfortunately, the
+accommodation is so very scanty--Ogwen Cottage, the only house, having
+no more than two bedrooms--that the place is little used. For Tryfaen,
+the Glyders, the Carnedds, Twll Du, and the Elider range it is
+preferable to any other place, and beautiful problems are to be found by
+the climber literally within a stone's throw of the door. It is about 5
+miles from Bethesda station on the north and the same distance from
+Capel Curig on the east, all three places being on the great Holyhead
+Road. Penygwrhyd is 2 hours away, whether by road (9 miles) or over the
+hill. In the latter case the shortest route is by the col which
+separates Tryfaen and Glyder Fach, and then over the shoulder east of
+the latter mountain. To Llanberis the way lies by Twll Du and Cwm
+Patric, and though much longer than the last could probably be done in
+nearly as short a time.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Bethesda= is 5 miles from Benglog, and that much further from all the
+best climbing. See, however, p. 18.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Capel Curig= (600 ft. above sea level) is 5-1/2 miles from Bettws y
+Coed railway station, 4 miles from Penygwrhyd, and 5 from Benglog, is a
+very good centre for strong walkers. Most of the best climbs are within
+reach, but none very near. For Snowdon Penygwrhyd is much nearer;
+Benglog is better for the Glyders and the Carnedds; so that, while being
+pretty good for nearly all, Capel Curig is not the best starting-place
+for any. It has no exclusive rights, except over Moel Siabod on the
+south and the wild unfrequented district in the opposite direction,
+which lies at the back of Carnedd Llewelyn.
+
+Hutton, who visited it at the beginning of the century, calls it 'an
+excellent inn in a desert.'
+
+The Alpine Club had a meeting here in 1879.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Dinas Mawddwy=, reached by rail from Machynlleth, is a pleasant,
+secluded spot amid mountainous surroundings, but not conveniently
+situated for climbing anything but Aran Mawddwy. All the advantages of
+the place may be equally well enjoyed from Machynlleth. Old Pennant
+records how in his rash youth he used to toboggan down the peat paths of
+Craig y Dinas, 'which,' says he, 'I now survey with horror.' A Welsh
+bard, whose poems must have been neglected in the place, declares that
+it was notable for three things--blue earth, constant rain, and hateful
+people.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Dolgelly=, which ends in _-eu_ in many old books, in _-ey_ on the one
+side and in _-y_ on the other of the modern railway station, and is
+commonly pronounced by the residents as if it ended in _-a_, is said to
+mean 'hazel dale,' a name which the place can hardly be said to live up
+to. There is, however, no doubt that it is one of the prettiest places
+in Wales and one of the pleasantest to stop at. In the first place the
+communications are very good, for by the Great Western Railway there is
+a capital service to Shrewsbury and London, while on the seaward side
+the Cambrian Railway puts Barmouth and Portmadoc on the one side, and
+Machynlleth and Aberystwith on the other, within easy reach. There is
+good scenery on all sides of it, while for Cader Idris, the Aran
+Mountains, and the Rhinog range there is no better centre. Many people
+have an objection to going up and down a mountain by the same route, and
+have an equal horror of the long grind round the foot of it, which is
+the result of going down a different side of the mountain if you want
+to return to your starting-point. At Dolgelly you enjoy the advantage of
+being able to take a train to the far side of your mountain, so as to
+come back over the top and straight on down to your sleeping-place. For
+instance, a very fine way of doing Aran Benllyn and Aran Mawddwy is to
+go by the Great Western to Llanuwchllyn and then come back along the
+ridge of both mountains. In the same way one can begin a day on the
+Rhinogs by rail, walking from Llanbedr or Harlech to Cwm Bychan, and so
+over the Rhinogs and Llethr, and down to Dolgelly again. Even Cader
+Idris is rendered more enjoyable if the train be taken to Towyn and
+Abergynolwyn, whence the walk by Talyllyn and up to the summit by way of
+Llyn y Cae is in turn pretty and impressive. As a rule it is far better
+to go out by train and come back on foot than to reverse the process,
+and for two reasons--first, by taking the train at once you make sure of
+your ride, and have the remainder of the day freed from anxiety and the
+fear of just missing the last train a dozen miles from home, with less
+than an hour of daylight remaining; secondly, if you don't miss the
+train it is because you have come along at racing pace. You are in
+consequence very hot, and have to stand about in a draughty station till
+the train (which is twenty minutes late) arrives and then follows half
+an hour's journey with wet feet, for wet feet and walking on Welsh hills
+are very close friends indeed.
+
+There used to be a saying about Dolgelly that the town walls there are
+six miles high. Of course this refers mainly to the long mural
+precipice which forms the north point of Cader Idris. Abundant climbing
+is to be found on this 'wall,' which, with a small part of Aran Mawddwy
+and a few short, steep bits along the course of the river Mawddach,
+constitutes the best rock-work in the immediate vicinity of Dolgelly.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Ffestiniog=, a very pleasant place to stay at, with good communications
+by rail with Bala, Bettws y Coed, and Portmadoc. There are climbs
+near--e.g. on the Manods and on Moelwyn--but on a small scale, the good
+ones being mostly destroyed by the colossal slate quarries.
+
+_Blaenau Ffestiniog_ is the more central and less beautiful; the old
+village (3 miles away) is far pleasanter. The Cynfael Falls, about a
+mile off, include the well-known 'Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit,' and are very
+pretty, but have been almost as fatal as those at Aber. Readers will
+probably remember the death of Miss Marzials at this spot.[6]
+
+  [6] The _Times_, August 25, 1885, p. 6, and August 27, p. 8. See
+  also the _Times_, October 2, 1837, p. 3.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Llanberis= (i.e. 'Church of Peris'), being a station on a railway which
+has a good service from England, is the most accessible of all the
+mountain resorts in Wales. As a consequence of these facilities the
+place is often intolerably overrun, especially during the late summer
+and autumn. The true lover of the mountains flees the spot, for the
+day-tripper is a burden and desire fails. Whether the railway will have
+the power to make things worse in this respect we cannot yet decide, but
+it seems unlikely. It is only of late years that Llanberis has possessed
+the most popular road up Snowdon. The opening of the road over the pass
+in 1818 did a great deal, and the visit of H.M. the Queen in 1832 did
+still more to make the place popular, and the pony path up Snowdon and
+the railway settled the matter. The other mountains which may readily be
+ascended from here are those in the Elider and Glyder ranges, while
+climbing is nearly confined to the rocks on both sides of the pass,
+which includes some work of great excellence.
+
+As early as 1845 a separate guide-book for this place was published by
+J. H. Bransby. Now there are several.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Machynlleth= (pronounced roughly like 'Mahuntly,' and by the rustics
+very like 'Monkley') lies midway between Plynlimon and Cader Idris, and
+within reach of both, yet can hardly claim to be a centre for
+mountaineers. Of submontane walks and scenery it commands a surprising
+variety, having railway facilities in half a dozen directions. This
+makes it a capital place for a long stay, varied by an occasional night
+or two at places like Rhayader, Dolgelly, Barmouth, or Beddgelert. The
+best way of doing Aran Mawddwy is by way of Dinas Mawddwy, and the
+ascent of Cader Idris from Corris railway station, returning by way of
+Abergynolwyn, makes a most enjoyable day.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Nantlle=, once a very pretty place, is now little more than an
+intricate system of slate quarries. A low pass (Drws y Coed) separates
+it from Snowdon, of which Wilson took a celebrated picture from this
+side. There are some nice little climbs on both sides of the pass and on
+Garnedd Goch, which runs away to the southward of it.
+
+Nantlle has a station, but Penygroes, the junction, is so near as to
+make it a more convenient stopping-place. Anyone staying at Criccieth
+can make a good day by taking the train to Nantlle, and returning along
+Garnedd Goch or over Moel Hebog. Snowdon too is within easy reach.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Penygwrhyd.=--In Beddgelert Church is a monument 'to the memory of
+Harry Owen, for forty-four years landlord of the inn at Penygwrhyd and
+guide to Snowdon: born April 2, 1822; died May 5, 1891.'
+
+Harry Owen it was who did for Penygwrhyd what Will Ritson did for
+Wastdale Head and Seiler for Zermatt. Intellectually, perhaps, he was
+not the equal of either of the other two, but there was a
+straightforward cordiality about him which made all lovers of the
+mountains feel at once that in his house they had a home to which they
+could return again and again with ever renewed pleasure.
+
+The house stands at the foot of the east side of the Llanberis Pass, at
+the junction of the roads from Capel Curig (4 miles), Beddgelert (8
+miles), and Llanberis (6 miles), and at the central point of three
+mountain groups--Snowdon (the finest and boldest side), the Glyders, and
+Moel Siabod. The last is of small account, but the other two groups
+contain some--one may almost say most--of the best climbing and finest
+scenery in Wales. Most people come to the inn by way of Bettws y Coed
+and many from Llanberis; but by far the finest approach is that from
+Beddgelert, and by this way the first approach at any rate ought always
+to be made. Ascents and climbs innumerable may be made from here, and
+many valuable notes on climbs may be found here in a certain volume
+secured from the profane mob by lock and key.
+
+In the same volume also several sets of verses occur much above the
+ordinary tourist level, among them being a very smart study of the
+climbing class in the style of Walt Whitman, and a few telling
+alphabetic distichs of which _habitues_ will recognise the force.
+
+    K--for the Kitchen, where garments are dried;
+    L--for the Language we use when they're fried;
+    O--for the Owens, whom long may we see;
+    P--for the Pudding we call P.Y.G.
+    S is for Snowdon, that's seen from afar;
+    T--for the Tarts on the shelf in the bar.
+
+The visitors' book proper also contains entries of some interest,
+including some lines (given at length in the _Gossiping Guide_) written
+by Charles Kingsley, Tom Taylor, and Tom Hughes, chiefly remarkable for
+their breezy good temper. The lines are printed, together with a mass of
+very poor stuff taken from the same source, in a little book called
+_Offerings at the Foot of Snowdon_.[7] The inn and the Owens play an
+important part in Kingsley's novel _Two Years Ago_. Forty or fifty years
+ago there was a constant visitor at this inn who might have claimed the
+invention of the place as a climbing centre. He corresponded in
+profession, and also in age, to the Rev. James Jackson, the Cumbrian
+'Patriarch.' He had a mania for ridge-walking, or, as he termed it,
+'following the sky line.' His name I could never learn.
+
+  [7] Tremadoc, 1875.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Rhayader= (_The Waterfall_, i.e. of the river Wye, pronounced here
+'Rhay-' and not 'Rhy-,' as in North Wales) is a very convenient centre
+for much scenery which is of great interest to the geologically-minded
+mountaineer, though the hills are of no great height. The Cambrian
+Railway has a station here, and makes an expedition to the Brecon
+Beacons or to the very interesting Black Mountains a very simple matter,
+while on the way a good deal may be seen of two of the most beautiful
+rivers in Britain, the Wye and the Usk. Aberedw Rocks and Cwm Elan are
+quite near, and so is Nant Guillt, with its memories of Shelley, beloved
+of all who love the mountains, though perhaps few would have cared to be
+on the same rope with that somewhat erratic genius. Where the Wye enters
+the Vale of Rhayader there are some remarkably fine rocks (chiefly in
+the 'Lower Llandovery' formation). Mackintosh calls it 'a deep basin
+surrounded by very precipitous slopes, which on the side most distant
+from the river channel present one of the finest and loftiest rocky
+cliffs in the principality.' The Birmingham Water Works have influenced
+the town for good in one respect only: they have introduced a barber,
+who at the end of each week mows navvies' cheeks by the acre.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Snowdon Ranger=, a small inn on the west side of Snowdon, readily
+reached by rail from Carnarvon or coach from Beddgelert, or again by an
+easy and interesting walk over the low pass of Drws y Coed from
+Penygroes station. It commands one of the simplest ascents of Snowdon,
+but by no means the most interesting. Good climbing may be found near
+it on Clogwyndurarddu, on Mynydd Mawr, on both sides of Drws y Coed, and
+on the Garnedd Goch range, but none are on a very large scale.
+
+In the history of Welsh mountaineering it holds a place, having long
+been the most usual starting-point for the ascent of Snowdon, and all
+the early travellers came here. Cradock (1770) calls it 'a small
+thatched hut at the foot of the mountain (Snowdon), near a lake which
+they call Llyn Cychwhechlyn (i.e. Quellyn), which I leave you to
+pronounce as well as you are able. We procured a number of blooming
+country girls to divert us with their music and dancing.' Even these
+delights, however, could not keep travellers from drifting away towards
+Beddgelert--a change which, as readers of _Wild Wales_ will remember,
+had already become marked when Borrow had his interview with the Snowdon
+guide forty years ago. The early accounts often speak of this place as
+Bronyfedw (a name which still survives), and for many years there used
+to be a kind of 'personally conducted' (Hamer's) ascent of Snowdon from
+Carnarvon once a week by this route.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Tanybwlch.=--Wyndham, Pennant, and, indeed, nearly all the early
+explorers of Wales stayed at this very pleasant place. At that time the
+highroad from Dolgelly to Beddgelert and Carnarvon passed the door; but
+the railway having now superseded the post chaise has left the place
+somewhat out in the cold. It has, however, some assistance from the
+'toy' line to Ffestiniog, and is a pretty little place, though Moelwyn,
+Cynicht, Moel Siabod, and the Rhinogs are all the mountains which it
+can command. For those coming from England the best station is Maentwrog
+Road, on the G.W.R. line from Bala.
+
+
+
+
+WHERE TO CLIMB
+
+
+=Anglesey.=--The extreme flatness of the island perhaps gives an
+increased effect to its fine rock scenery about the Stacks, which will
+be respected by climbers as perhaps the earliest school of their art in
+Wales. An old description of the egg-takers here contains some
+interesting sentences which are not wholly devoid of point even for
+climbers of the present day. 'The gains bear no tolerable proportion to
+the danger incurred. The adventurers, having furnished themselves with
+every necessary implement, enter on the terrific undertaking. Two--for
+this is a trade in which co-partnership is absolutely necessary--take a
+station. He whose superior agility renders it eligible prepares for the
+rupestrian expedition. Dangerous employ! a slip of the foot or the hand
+would in an instant be fatal to both. To a stranger this occupation
+appears more dangerous than it really is. In persons habituated to
+bodily difficulty the nervous system becomes gradually braced, and the
+solids attain that state of rigidity which banishes irritability, while
+the mind, accustomed to danger, loses that timidity which frequently
+leads to the dreaded disaster. Fact demonstrates to what an extent
+difficulty and danger may be made subordinate to art and perseverance.'
+
+This is the voice of truth, but the solids nowadays (owing possibly to
+the fluids or to the want of them) do not banish their irritability
+completely.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Carnarvonshire.=--Both in the quality and the quantity of its climbs
+this county leaves the rest of Wales far behind. Its superiority is even
+more marked than that of Cumberland over the rest of England.
+
+Snowdon, the Glyders, and the Carnedds would alone be sufficient to
+establish this; but there are numbers of less important elevations which
+would have a great reputation in almost any other county.
+
+The chief mountain centres are Penygwrhyd, Beddgelert, Llanberis, and
+Snowdon Ranger, all four lying at the foot of Snowdon, Benglog (Ogwen
+Cottage), Capel Curig, and Ffestiniog.
+
+The appearance of the county must be greatly changed since Leland's
+time. He tells us that 'the best wood of Caernarvonshire is by Glinne
+Kledder and by Glin Llughy and by Capel Kiryk and at Llanperis. More
+upwarde be Eryri Hilles, and in them ys very little corne. If there were
+the Deere would destroy it.' The destruction of this wood has greatly
+injured the beauty of the valleys round Snowdon, Nant Gwynant being the
+only one where it remains in any quantity.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Penmaenmawr= (1,553 ft.) is far from being a difficult mountain. The
+ancient Britons had a fort on the top of it, and it was ascended 'by a
+person of quality in the reign of Charles II.,' but it is scarcely a
+paradox to say that it was the greatest obstacle to knowledge of Welsh
+mountains during last century. The highroad from Chester crossed it,
+and our ancestors used to go rolling off it down into the sea, and did
+not like it. Therefore a journey to Wales was a great and a rare feat.
+All the early travellers dilate upon its terrors. In 1795 Mr. T. Hucks,
+B.A., gives a ludicrous account of his ascent, which was actually made
+without a guide. 'We rashly took the resolution to venture up this
+stupendous mountain without a guide, and therefore unknowingly fixed
+upon the most difficult part to ascend, and consequently were
+continually impeded by a vast number of unexpected obstructions. At
+length we surmounted every danger and difficulty, and safely arrived at
+the top.... In the midst of my melancholy cogitations I fully expected
+that the genius of the mountain would have appeared to me in some
+formidable shape and have reproached me with rashly presuming to disturb
+the sacred silence of his solitary reign.' Penmaenmawr was not a
+frequented tourist resort in those days. The genius would not expect
+much sacred silence now. The writer knows of no continuous climb on the
+mountain, though he has often had a scramble on it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=The Carnedd Group.=--=Carnedd Dafydd= (3,426 ft.), said to have been
+named after David the brother of Prince Llewelyn, rises on the north of
+Llyn Ogwen and on the west of the river which flows from it. The view,
+looking southward across Llyn Ogwen at the bold northern front of the
+Glyder group, is one of the grandest in Wales. That to the north-west is
+to a great extent cut off by Carnedd Llewelyn. The usual
+starting-points are Bethesda, Ogwen Cottage, and Capel Curig, though
+strong walkers occasionally attack the mountain from the Conway valley
+on the west and from Aber on the sea coast.
+
+From Bethesda the most direct way to the summit is to steer south-east
+and straight at the mountain, which is full in view. The distance is
+3-1/2 miles, and an active traveller, if by any accident he extricates
+himself speedily from Bethesda, may reach the summit in two hours. On
+the other hand he is quite as likely to find himself, at the end of the
+two hours, still wandering sadly up and down the by-lanes of that
+maze-like village. The natives are polite, and would willingly give any
+information; but they cannot speak English, and they do not possess the
+information.
+
+There is only one street which leads anywhere in particular, only one
+which can be known at sight and followed fearlessly when known. It is
+the Holyhead road, and to get from one house in Bethesda to another it
+is said that even the inhabitants find it safest to make for the
+Holyhead road at once, and thus secure an intelligible base of
+operations.
+
+The route up Carnedd Dafydd by way of Penyroleuwen begins with over two
+miles of this road, and is, consequently, a very sound opening. It is
+only necessary to turn off at Tynymaes, on the left hand, and strike up
+the hill and along the ridge to Braichddu, overlooking the tarn of
+Ffynnon y Lloer. A sharp turn is now made to the left along the
+shoulder, and the great cairn which marks the summit is soon reached.
+
+The route from Capel Curig is very easily found. Three and a half miles
+along the Bangor road, after crossing the river Llugwy, and just before
+a chapel, a path strikes off on the right-hand side towards a farmhouse.
+Half a mile along this path strike up the hill to the left, travelling
+at first about north by compass, and afterwards, as the hill is mounted,
+inclining more to the west.
+
+A less popular route, but perhaps shorter and more easily found in mist,
+and certainly more effective in point of scenery, leaves the highroad
+about a furlong short of Ogwen Lake. Pass a farm and follow a stream for
+a mile up to Ffynnon Lloer; from the head of the pool pick your way
+through some rough ground to the left hand up on to Braichddu, when the
+view of the Glyders bursts upon you suddenly with great effect, and, on
+turning to the right to make the final mount to the Carnedd, some good
+peeps may be had down the confused rocks of Craig yr Ysfa.
+
+From Ogwen Cottage the last route is often the best, especially when the
+party contains some weak members, as the direct line from the foot of
+the lake is exceedingly steep.
+
+The climbs on this mountain are practically limited to Cefnysgolion Duon
+on the north and Craig yr Ysfa on the west, overlooking Nantffrancon.
+
+_Cefnysgolion Duon_--i.e. 'The Black Ladders,' by which name it is
+commonly known--might be forced into meaning 'The Black Schools,' and
+this sense greatly bewildered a learned native, who observes, 'It is
+impossible to imagine a spot less suited to the operations of the
+school-master.' But we can assure him that as a school for climbers it
+leaves little to be desired.
+
+Perhaps 'Black Pinnacles' would be a better rendering, 'ysgol' being
+often used in that sense, the comparison referring to a step-ladder,
+seen sideways, so as to present the shape of an isosceles triangle.
+
+The crags are on the south side of Cwm Llafar, the great hollow between
+the two Carnedds, and there is nothing to do but to follow up from
+Bethesda the stream which flows down it. In other words, the true line
+is almost parallel to and about half a mile north of the most direct
+route to the top of Carnedd Dafydd. As advance is made the slope between
+the two routes becomes more and more rocky, and when the Ladders
+themselves come fairly in view the scene is a very grand one. There are
+two conspicuous gullies, divided by a stretch of rock which looks almost
+unclimbable. The right-hand or western gully is very steep, and having
+often quite a stream in it, is then decidedly hard, and requires
+considerable care in winter. The other gully slopes away sharply to the
+left, behind a slight projection, and has only one pitch in it, but that
+is really good. Two ways here present themselves of climbing along the
+left-hand wall at two different levels, neither of them too easy, or
+else the gully may be deserted altogether, as the left bank forms a
+ridge which offers easy but delightful climbing all over it, the hold
+suddenly becoming magnificent. East of this ridge the hold is still
+good, but the rocks dwindle in size, until, in the centre of the col
+between the Carnedds, they wholly disappear.
+
+This noble crag has never been much frequented by climbers, though in
+1879 about a dozen members of the Alpine Club took it on their way from
+Bangor to Capel Curig.[8]
+
+  [8] _Alpine Journal_, vol. ix. p. 384.
+
+Some years before 1869[9] a Birmingham Scripture Reader fell over it,
+and was, of course, killed.
+
+  [9] Mackintosh, p. 809.
+
+_Craig yr Ysfa._--These rugged and in parts highly romantic rocks have
+attracted but few climbers. A hardworking group of Bangor enthusiasts
+have done about all the work that has been done here. In November 1894
+J. M. A. T., H. H., H. E., and J. S., quitting the road just beyond the
+eighth milestone from Bangor, reached, in twenty minutes, the mouth of a
+gully, broad except where it narrows into a gorge, about half-way up.
+The climbing on the left of the stream is quite easy, on its right less
+so; but in either case the stream has to be abandoned at the first
+waterfall, which is quite impracticable when there is any quantity of
+water falling. One may climb out to the right by a small tributary
+gully, or up the buttress of rock to the right, and thus turn the lower
+fall as well as the upper fall, which is a small edition of the Devil's
+Kitchen. Near the edge of the cliff, on the left of the gorge, is a
+large tabular rock, which forms the postern to a narrow passage back
+into the gully, which soon broadens out and leaves a choice of routes;
+the left-hand branch should be taken by preference, as it contains a
+rather difficult pitch, above which the ascent to the top of the ridge
+is simple.
+
+[Illustration: A GULLY ON CRAIG YR YSFA]
+
+A second gully lies a few hundred yards nearer Ogwen Lake, and
+contains, besides cascades, two distinct waterfalls, of which the first
+may be surmounted by a small but not easy chimney close to it on the
+left, which is also the side for attacking the second difficulty. Here a
+necessary grass ledge above the level of the top of the fall was
+loosened by heavy rain, and stopped the progress of the above party, who
+completed the ascent by climbing out to the left.
+
+The craggy portion is just over one mile long. Towards the head of Nant
+Ffrancon the rocks come lower, and are more fantastic, affording a great
+variety of fine problems, though few continuous climbs.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Carnedd Llewelyn= (3,484 ft.) is the second highest of the Welsh
+mountains. The last Government Survey gave it a slight lift, and at the
+same time slightly reduced Snowdon, causing a rumour to go abroad,
+alarming to conservative minds, that the latter had forfeited its pride
+of place. This would have been a real misfortune, as the old-established
+favourite is beyond all question the finest mountain of the two. Only
+imagine the feelings of a poor peak abandoned in its old age, without
+cheap trippers, without huts, without a railway, without Sir Edward
+Watkin. The blow would have been too cruel! The near views from Carnedd
+Llewelyn are not remarkable. They consist mainly of the crags of Yr Elen
+and those of the grand north face of Carnedd Dafydd, which, however,
+practically conceal the Glyders, and these again cut off most of
+Snowdon. But the seaward view is very fine, and with regard to the very
+distant places, such as the Cumberland Fells, this mountain has a great
+advantage over Snowdon both 'to see and to be seen.' Perhaps the extra
+7-1/2 miles make the difference, but it is a fact that for once that
+Snowdon is to be made out from Scafell or Great Gable, Carnedd Llewelyn
+can be seen half a dozen times.
+
+For the ascent Bethesda is the nearest. Several ways present themselves,
+and whichever the traveller takes he will think that he has taken the
+boggiest. One way is straight up Cwm Llafar to the ridge
+(Bwlchcyfrwydrum) between the two Carnedds, or inclining left one mile
+short of this ridge one soon reaches the ridge connecting our mountain
+with Yr Elen, on the other side of which are some fine crags. The ascent
+by way of Cwm Caseg, the next valley to the north, is equally simple and
+affords a good view of these crags from below. In thick weather the long
+lonely walk from Aber is an education in itself to the mountain rambler,
+while from Talycafn station, on the north-west, a good road comes to
+within a mile and a half E.S.E. of the summit. The Capel Curig ascent is
+perhaps the least interesting of all; by it the two Carnedds are usually
+combined. Either the ascent or the return should be made along the Pen
+Helig ridge, with regard to the terrors of which the guide-books have
+used language as exaggerated as the descriptions of Striding Edge on
+Helvellyn. In winter, however, there is sometimes pretty work here.
+
+_Climbs._--A few rocks will be found round the remarkable tarns of
+Llyndulyn and Melynllyn, on the north-east side of the mountain, and on
+the west side of Llyn Eigiau. Better still are the rocks near where the
+Talycafn road ends by a slate quarry in the rocks of Elicydu
+(apparently marked as Pen Helig by the Ordnance Surveyors); but best of
+all is the north-east side of Yr Elen, where there is a sort of small
+edition of the Black Ladders, with the same sunless aspect, so that it
+often keeps its snow in the same way till quite late in the year. In
+winter, however, the grand cwm which lies due east of the Carnedd offers
+splendid snow scenes and snow work.
+
+Some years ago a quarryman was lost in the snow, and an upright stone on
+the north ridge of the mountain marks the spot. One of the earliest
+ascents of the mountain was that made in 1630 by Johnson, who evidently
+had the spirit of the mountaineer in him, for he pressed his guide to
+take him to the more precipitous places, alleging the love of rare
+plants. That worthy, however, declined to go, alleging the fear of
+eagles. Mackintosh too had a difficulty here with his guide during a
+winter's day excursion. But his fears seem to have been entirely without
+reasonable cause, and he was not so near to being robbed or murdered as
+he at one time fancied. Mr. Paterson's charming book _Below the Snow
+Line_ describes the route from Llanfairfechan in wild weather.
+
+In the _Philosophical Transactions_ for 1771 will be found noted an
+ascent which satisfied the climber and his water-level that the summit
+was higher than that of Snowdon. Pennant too made the ascent, but came
+to an opposite conclusion on this point.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Elider Group.=--=Carnedd y Filiast= (i.e. 'Cairn of the Female
+Greyhound') is a feature on the west side of Nant Ffrancon, on account
+of the very remarkable slabs which it exhibits on that side. A hundred
+and twenty-five years ago Pennant was told here that 'if the fox in
+extreme danger takes over them in wet weather he falls down and
+perishes.' Certainly they are dangerous enough to a less sure-footed
+animal--man--and are best left alone, especially when there is any ice
+about. The nearest place from which to start is Bethesda. Another hill
+of the same name lies to the north of Bala.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Foelgoch.=--A spur running north-west from Glyder Fawr forms the
+western bank of Nant Ffrancon, and nearly three miles along this ridge
+is Foelgoch (i.e. 'Red Hill'). It has a steep western side towards the
+head of Cwm Dudodyn, and on the other side a very steep rocky recess
+facing Llyn Idwal. Llanberis and Bethesda stations are about equally
+distant. From the former place it is seldom visited, except before or
+after the ascent of Elidyr Fawr.
+
+On August 6, 1886, E. K. writes, 'There is excellent scrambling to be
+had about this mountain, and some really difficult work.'
+
+On September 29, 1894, a party of three climbed from Nant Ffrancon.
+
+The break in the ridge may be reached either by following the ridge
+itself or from the cwms on either side of it. The ascent thence to the
+summit offers easy but steep climbing if the crest of the ridge be
+scrupulously adhered to. Passing over the summit of Y Garn the descent
+was made down the southern ridge of Cwm Clyd, which gives a good
+scramble along its barren arete.
+
+[Illustration: TWLL DU
+
+(looking down through it to Llyn Idwal and Llyn Ogwen)]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Y Garn= (3,104 ft.), near the head of Nant Ffrancon, on the west side,
+is little visited, but has some very good rock on it. Benglog is much
+the nearest place. The well-known Twll Du may almost be said to be on
+it, and is practically the division between it and Glyder Fawr.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Twll Du= (i.e. 'Black Pit'), commonly called the 'Devil's Kitchen,' is
+a remarkable chasm in the line of cliff which faces the head of Llyn
+Idwal on the south-west, being a northerly continuation of Glyder Fawr.
+From Benglog, which is much the nearest place, there is little choice of
+route; either side of Llyn Idwal will do, but the west side is rather
+less boggy. Keeping well up you pass the head of Idwal until you bring
+it on with the head of Llyn Ogwen, and then about 500 ft. above the
+former you find yourself at the foot of this grand fissure. In dry
+weather all but the highest patch can be easily ascended; after rain it
+is sometimes difficult to enter the place at all. In the summer of 1893,
+which was extraordinarily dry, a young fellow claimed to have done it
+single-handed, but it was supposed by some that he had mistaken the
+place. During the intense cold of March 1895 an extraordinary _tour de
+force_ was accomplished here by J. M. A. T. and H. H., who cut their way
+up the frozen waterfall, and thus accomplished what was probably the
+first ascent of this formidable chasm. The height of the final pitch in
+its normal condition is about 53 ft., measured from the top of the block
+down to the surface of the pool below. When the climb above described
+was made, no doubt much of this height was filled up by snow and ice,
+yet the remainder was not surmounted in less than 7 hours, so that the
+average rate of progress must have been about 5 ft. per hour. The total
+time from Benglog to the top of the Kitchen was 8-1/2 hours. The party
+descended in the dark to Llanberis in 3 hours more, having left Ogwen in
+the morning at 10 o'clock. Those who approach from Upper Llanberis by
+way of Cwm Patric or from Penygwrhyd over the shoulder west of Glyder
+Fawr, and, in fact, all who do not come by way of Benglog, have to
+descend the high cliff out of which the Kitchen is cut. The only
+convenient passage starts about a furlong to the south of the Kitchen,
+and is very awkward at night or in mist. It begins as a wide, straight
+trough (the largest and most regular of two or three), which slopes
+gently downwards and towards Benglog. Presently it takes a more
+northerly direction and becomes a steep, wide slope of scree following
+the line of cliff to the great blocks of fallen stones which mark the
+mouth of the chasm. An active man can return from the lower to the upper
+exit of the chimney in ten minutes, and the descent could, of course, be
+done in even less time. In dry weather there is but one slight
+difficulty before reaching the grand crux at the head. It can be climbed
+by passing into a cavern and up to the left, but the easier, and after
+heavy rain the only practicable, way is up the side-wall just to the
+left of the choke-stone on to a broad ledge. A little way above this a
+huge slab, fallen from above, is seen leaning against the wall on the
+right. The passage to the right of it can always be made, however strong
+the stream on the left hand may be. The climb to the top of this slab is
+very neat, and, besides affording a capital view of the situation, is
+about all the consolation left for the ardent explorer, who will seldom
+succeed in penetrating any further. There are, however, two possible
+lines of advance, both on the left-hand wall, one well in under the
+colossal cap-stone, which hangs 50 ft. overhead, and the other outside,
+nearly opposite the great slab. By the latter route 20 ft. or 30 ft. can
+be climbed with some little difficulty, but the traverse to the right
+would no doubt prove a very ticklish operation. Cliffe, in June 1843,
+penetrated to the foot of the final obstacle, and gives a very good
+description of it.
+
+[Illustration: TWLL DU
+
+(looking up from within)]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Glyder Group.=--=Glyder Fach= (3,262 ft.), though called 'the lesser,'
+is far finer than its brother peak, so much so that many have found
+great difficulty in believing that the Ordnance Surveyors were right in
+ascribing 17 ft. of superiority to the more lumpy western summit. One
+might be tempted to build a 20-ft. cairn but for the fear of spoiling
+the great glory of Glyder Fach, the chaos of rocks on its summit. The
+present cairn was not in existence ten years ago, and must have been
+built about 1887.
+
+[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF
+
+THE GLYDERS
+
+AND
+
+TRYFAEN]
+
+_Ascents._--From Benglog the most interesting ascent is by the Gribin
+ridge, between Idwal and Bochllwyd. It involves a slight descent (about
+150 ft.) after reaching the ridge, but it is less fatiguing than that by
+Bwlch Tryfaen and the steep rough screes on the right hand beyond it.
+From Penygwrhyd you mount behind the inn, crossing the bog as you best
+can towards a wall which goes straight up the hill. When the direction
+of the wall changes you make a compromise midway between the old and
+the new, and very soon come on to a line of cairns which continues right
+on to the boggy tableland above. Tryfaen top now appears over the hill,
+and as soon as it is fairly lifted you bear to the left and up a stony
+slope to the cairn. From Capel Curig it is a simple matter to follow the
+ridge of Cefn y Capel, but quicker to keep along the highroad past the
+Llynian Mymbyr, and then strike up a grass slope to the right. As often
+as not both Glyders are ascended in one expedition; the dip between the
+two is only 300 ft., the distance is under a mile, and stones are the
+only obstacles.
+
+[Illustration: SUMMIT OF GLYDER FACH]
+
+_Climbs._--The north face of this mountain is remarkably fine and
+contains all the climbing there is. At the east end is the bristly ridge
+leading down to Bwlch Tryfaen. This is stimulating, but not difficult.
+In the centre of the face there is a large gully, ascended in November
+1894 by J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E. They did not find it necessary to
+use the rope. The lofty pitch at the foot of the eastern gully is
+decidedly hard. (J. M. A. T.) In May 1888 W. E. C., A. E., E. B., and E.
+K. found and ascended a gully close under the west side of Castell
+Gwynt, and add that they reached Penygwrhyd by way of Cwm Graianog. The
+last statement is very mysterious. About the Castell itself (the rugged
+pile of rocks between the two Glyders, marked by its slender outstanding
+'sentinel'), and about the summit of the Fach, there are some good
+scrambles on a small scale.
+
+[Illustration: CASTELL GWYNT AND GLYDER FAWR]
+
+Directly under the top stone is the minimum thermometer, which has been
+kept there for some years.[10] The most interesting thing on the whole
+mountain is undoubtedly the pile of stones on the top. According to the
+bard Taliesin it is the burial-place of a mighty warrior, one Ebediw. If
+a kind of Stonehenge was erected there to his memory and afterwards got
+upset by an earthquake it might account for present appearances. Edward
+Lhwyd, the great antiquary, was particularly struck by them 200 years
+ago, and his description and remarks are equally applicable to-day.
+
+  [10] See the _Journal of the Royal Meteorological Society_ for
+  April 1893, xix. No. 86, for a summary of the temperatures thus
+  recorded.
+
+[Illustration: ROCKS ON GLYDER FACH]
+
+'On the utmost top of the Glyder,' he says, 'I observed prodigious heaps
+of stones, many of them of the largeness of those of Stonehenge, but of
+all the irregular shapes imaginable, and all lying in such confusion as
+the ruins of any building can be supposed to do.... Had they been in a
+valley I had concluded they had fallen from the neighbouring rocks ...
+but, being on the highest part of the hill, they seemed to me much more
+remarkable.' He goes on to remark upon a precipice which has not been
+identified (see _Esgair Felen_). 'On the west side of the same hill
+there is, amongst many others, one naked precipice (near or one of the
+Trigfylchau, but distinguished by no particular name), as steep as any I
+have seen, but so adorned with numerous equidistant pillars, and these
+again slightly crossed at certain joints. 'Twas evident that the gullies
+or interstices were occasioned by a continued dropping of water down
+this cliff.' Trigfylchau, by the way (i.e. 'Twisting Gaps'), is a name
+which does not seem to be known at the present day.
+
+Lhwyd's description fired the curiosity of the travellers who explored
+Wales nearly a century later, and the amusing part of it is that they
+could not find this wonderful mountain, or even hear of it from the
+intelligent natives.
+
+Cradock (1770) found an aged man, who told him that the mountain was
+'now called the Wythwar (Wyddfa),' which stands 'a few miles south of
+the parish of Clynog;' and H. P. Wyndham went further by identifying it
+with 'the mountain called Ryvil in Speed's map' (i.e. Yr Eifl). It shows
+how little the natives knew about their mountains until the travellers
+came and taught them. Pennant made the ascent, and gives a picture of
+the summit. Bingley also went up, and gives a good description.
+
+Kingsley's fine description, in _Two Years Ago_, of Elsley's ascent
+really applies mainly to Glyder Fach, though he only mentions the Fawr.
+Elsley's descent, by the way, was apparently into Bochllwyd by way of
+Castell Gwynt.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: GLYDER FAWR, NORTH FACE]
+
+=Glyder Fawr= (3,279 ft.).--The meaning of the name is a mystery. One
+Welsh scholar gravely tells us that the real name is Clydar, which at
+once yields the obviously suitable meaning of a 'well-shaded ploughed
+ground.' Either of these epithets would be quite as appropriate to the
+Sahara itself, for the two Glyders are among the barest and rockiest
+mountains in all Wales. The two roads which lead from Capel Curig, one
+over the Pass of Llanberis and the other through Nant Ffrancon to
+Bangor, enclose between them the whole of the Glyder group, forming a
+singular figure, which recalls Menenius Agrippa's description of the
+Second Citizen as 'the great toe of this assembly.' The toe is slightly
+bent; Penygwrhyd is the knuckle, Capel Curig the tip of the nail, and
+Benglog (the head of Nant Ffrancon) is just in the inside bend. The
+highest point of the group lies practically in a straight line with
+Snowdon and Carnedd Llewelyn, and, roughly speaking, midway between
+them. Of Snowdon it commands a profoundly impressive view, and is in
+turn itself best seen from the Carnedds.
+
+Both Glyders are very frequently ascended from Penygwrhyd, Llanberis,
+Capel Curig, and Ogwen.
+
+The simplest way up is from the top of the Llanberis Pass, from which a
+ridge leads to the summit. This is, perhaps, the best way if the start
+be made from any place not on the north side, though from Penygwrhyd the
+route may be boggily abbreviated by making up the little valley to the
+north-west. From Ogwen the usual ascent passes near Twll Du, though the
+ridge separating the Idwal and Bochllwyd lakelets is sometimes chosen,
+and certainly affords a greater variety of fine views.
+
+Climbing on this mountain is practically confined to its northern face,
+and even there very little has been done. There are also a few rocks on
+the west side. The climbing-book at Penygwrhyd contains very few
+references to it. At Easter in 1884 H. and C. S. mention that they
+enjoyed fine glissades down the snow slopes on the north-west side to
+Llyn y Cwn, but the first real climb recorded therein is that of the big
+gully in the north face, made on November 25, 1894, by J. M. A. T., H.
+H., and H. E. From the far end of Llyn Idwal a long scree leads up to
+the mouth of the gully, which may be identified from a distance by the
+pitch which blocks it about half-way up and a broad strip of grass
+outside it on the west. The point to make for is the head of a wall
+which runs up from the extreme south end of the llyn to the corner of a
+huge mass of bare smooth rock. If the traveller reaches this point
+without being engulfed in the boggy ground which fringes the llyn he
+will now continue in the same general direction as the wall, and soon
+sees the gully just before him. A kind of trough, probably produced by
+weathering of the rock, is now seen on the left, and this, as it
+appeared more interesting than the steep grass of the central part of
+the gully, was followed at first by the above-mentioned party. The
+trough is very easy at the foot, and has good holds, which higher up
+incline outwards, and become less and less prominent until at last
+progress becomes a question of delicacy and circumspection. Before the
+trough came entirely to an end the party traversed into the gully, but
+even there found the ascent to the pitch far from easy. Utilising the
+full length of their 80-ft. rope, and moving only one at a time, they
+reached the cave under the big pitch. Here it appeared hopeless to
+climb out on either side, and recourse had to be taken to engineering of
+the same kind which was successfully put in practice some years ago on
+Dow Crags, in Lancashire, by a very scientific band of brothers. Similar
+success crowned the efforts of this party, and brilliant gymnastics on
+the part of the leader landed them safely at the top of this difficulty.
+From this point the remainder of the climb has a deceptively easy
+appearance. Some 80 ft. higher up the difficulties begin again, and
+continue up to a small pitch just below the top. On one stretch it was
+found necessary to adopt a compromise between the wisdom of the serpent
+and the aimlessness of the crab, advancing by lateral jerks in a
+semi-recumbent attitude. Possibly these extreme measures would not have
+been necessary but for the fact that on this occasion the conclusion of
+a spell of three weeks of incessant rain was chosen as a suitable
+opportunity for attacking this face of the Glyder. It was the opinion of
+the party that the climb--at any rate in its then condition--is
+incontestably more difficult than that of the western buttress of
+Lliwedd. The time taken was 4 hours, including a short halt for
+luncheon.
+
+[Illustration: WESTERN GULLY IN NORTH FACE OF GLYDER FAWR]
+
+This gully is the more westerly of two. The other one was climbed in May
+1895 by J. M. A. T., H. H., and W. E. One of the party says of it, 'We
+soon came to some rather difficult rocks; we climbed them close under
+the right-hand wall--a really stiff little bit. The gully here is still
+quite broad, and on the left side of it we saw another way, which looked
+much easier. We found no special difficulty in the jammed stone which
+looks from below such a formidable obstacle. Two of us climbed it on
+the right; the third man circumvented it on the left. From this point to
+the summit is excellent throughout, the rocks being steep, the holds
+strong, well defined, and most conveniently distributed. In my opinion
+it is the best thing on the Glyders, and it can be done by a single
+man.' Still further east a narrow crack gives a very steep but easy rock
+staircase, while west of the gully first described is another with two
+pitches, of which the lower is harder and the upper easier than they
+look. The 60 ft. just above the latter are climbed by means of slight
+rugosities in the left-hand wall. It is somewhat curious that when, in
+February 1873, Glyder Fawr was crossed from Ogwen by way of Twll Du,
+with John Roberts as guide, it was recorded in the _Alpine Journal_[11]
+as something of a feat and something of an eccentricity. Twenty years
+have made a great change, and now, about Christmas or Easter, the snow
+on these hills is marked by tracks in many directions.
+
+  [11] Vol. vi. p. 195.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: LLYN IDWAL
+
+  _a_, The gullies of Glyder Fawr.
+  _b_, Descent to the foot of Twll Du.
+  _c_, Twll Du.]
+
+=Esgair Felen= (i.e. 'The Yellow Shank').--In August 1893 G. W. de T.
+found very good rocks and gullies on this shoulder of Glyder Fawr.
+Ascending from just above the cromlech stone in Llanberis Pass, the
+buttress immediately above can be climbed on the right or south-west
+side. The upper half may be climbed by a narrow gully, too narrow at
+first to enter, and giving little hold for hands or feet, and that
+little not sound. Apparently the leader climbed up a little way, and
+then the rest of the party climbed up the leader. They found good
+climbing without special difficulty among the rocks on the top of the
+great gully in the centre.
+
+It is somewhere in this neighbourhood that we must look for the
+mysterious precipice of which Edward Lhwyd wrote two hundred years ago
+as being strikingly columnar in structure, and possibly identical with
+'one of the Tregvylchau or Treiglvylcheu.' He says it is part of the
+Glyder, and faces west. Perhaps it is about the east side of Cwm Patric.
+As seen from well down the Llanberis Pass these rocks have a very
+striking appearance.
+
+The term 'esgair' is very commonly applied to long straight projections
+from higher mountains. Instances of its use are E. Weddar, E. Yn-Eira,
+E. Geiliog, E. Hir, and E. Galed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: TRYFAEN FROM THE EAST
+
+(Sketched by Colin B. Phillip)]
+
+=Tryfaen= (3,010 ft.), not to be confounded with the hill of the same
+name on the Llanberis side of Snowdon, or the other near Bettws Garmon,
+is the most remarkable rock mountain in Wales; it has two pillar stones
+on its summit, from which it is often said that the name (= 'three
+rocks') is derived. In answer to this it is enough to point out that the
+assumed third stone is not there, and could not have disappeared without
+a trace, while the name would equally well mean 'three peaks,' which the
+mountain certainly has when viewed from either east or west. The Welsh
+dictionaries give a word 'tryfan' with the sense of 'anything spotted
+through,' and, whether or not this has anything to do with the origin of
+the name, the component rocks certainly are quartz-speckled in a most
+extraordinary manner. The mountain is practically a ridge of rock
+running in a southerly direction from the head of Llyn Ogwen towards
+Glyder Fach, from which it is separated by a sharp dip, Bwlch Tryfaen.
+This dip, which may be reached either from Cwm Bochllwyd on the west or
+from Cwm Tryfaen on the east, offers by far the easiest ascent of the
+mountain. The best starting-point for Tryfaen is Ogwen Cottage, at
+Benglog, from which Llynbochllwyd is reached in 25 and the said dip in
+45 minutes; so that, if need were, the whole height (2,000 ft.) and
+distance (1-1/2 mile) to the summit could be attained within the hour.
+From Capel Curig, on the other hand, there is a good hour's walking
+before the highroad is left, beyond Gallt y Gogof, which Borrow calls
+Allt y Gog (Cuckoo Cliff), and even then the traveller has about as far
+to go as if he were starting from Benglog. Most of the Tryfaen climbs
+being on the east side they can be reached from Capel Curig with much
+less exertion than from Penygwrhyd, the route from which involves a
+long, rugged ascent, hot after the sun has risen and ankle-breaking
+after it has set.
+
+_Climbs._--These are extraordinarily abundant, and the hold is nearly
+everywhere gritty and good. The most popular climbs are:
+
+1. The east side, including especially the two gullies on either side of
+the summit known as the North and South Gullies.
+
+2. The north ridge up from the head of Llyn Ogwen.
+
+3. The west side.
+
+_The South Gully_, climbed by R. W. (1887). The first ascent noticed in
+the _Book of Penygwrhyd_ being that of H. G. G. and W. in 1890. On
+September 5, 1891, H. G. G. and E. B. T. offered some clear notes on
+the subject, to the following effect: The first difficulty consists of
+three or four jammed stones, each slightly overhanging the one beneath,
+with a total height of about 10 ft. It can be passed by keeping to the
+right close to the obstacle, but would not be easy in wet weather for
+any climber single-handed. At the place where the gully divides the
+left-hand or nearer division is not difficult. The broad division was
+found impracticable by a party of four on September 4, 1891, the large
+smooth rocks at the top being very wet. This place was climbed in 1890
+by Messrs. G. and W. by keeping to the extreme right close to the wall
+of the gully, and then returning along a narrow ledge. It was an awkward
+place. There is nothing above where the two gullies unite that offers
+any real difficulty.
+
+The North Gully is the more difficult of the two if the immediate centre
+is to be followed; but it is always practicable to break out on the face
+to the right. The difficulties of the South Gully are not so severe, but
+such as they are they must be climbed, as there is no lateral escape.
+
+Under date of June 9, 1894, a very clear account is given by J. M. A.
+T., J. R. S., and H. E. At the first obstacle the first man climbed up
+into the hole formed by the projection of the topmost rock, but, as the
+next beneath slopes outwards and downwards, found it impossible to
+relinquish a crouching posture. The pitch was abandoned. The right-hand
+rocks close by were taken, and the gully rejoined without difficulty. At
+the fork the northern branch was chosen. It can scarcely be called a
+gully; the water trickles down over the crags in several places, but
+there is no main or well-defined channel. A pinnacle is soon seen on the
+right, and here the climbing becomes difficult; the footholds are far
+apart, and the small tufts of grass, which were then wet and slippery,
+cannot be trusted. The course taken was to the extreme left, and as far
+as possible from the pinnacle, and in this respect it differs from that
+taken by Messrs. H. G. G. and W. in 1890. A firm, flat grass-covered
+shelf, at least a yard square, is seen in a straight line up above, and
+as soon as the first man has reached this a rope can be used to
+advantage. A steep rock some 12 ft. in height and of ordinary difficulty
+remains, and the climb thence to the summit is quite simple. By keeping
+to the left a cavern is reached, the further end of which opens like a
+trap door upon the summit; this interesting method of concluding the
+ascent should not be missed.
+
+On August 25, 1892, G. B. B. with Mr. and Mrs. T. R. climbed the five
+pitches of the South Gully, _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_, _e_; _a_ by the
+right-hand wall, _b_ in the centre, _c_ by divergence to the right-hand
+branch and return to the left over a narrow ledge, _d_ and _e_ in the
+centre or slightly on one side of the face. The gully was never left.
+Time, about 90 minutes.
+
+_North Gully._--This appears to have been climbed in 1888 by R. W. and
+T. W. Writing on September 5, 1891, H. G. G. and E. B. T. gave the
+following hints:--
+
+The first difficulty is at the bottom, below the level of any part of
+the South Gully, and might easily be missed if the horizontal track be
+followed. On August 30, 1891, these gentlemen found the middle of this
+(after very wet weather) quite impracticable, and the smooth rock on
+the right hand, lying at a very high angle, was also wet and very
+difficult. Either might possibly be passed in a dry season, the rock
+almost certainly. The next point of note is a very large lodged stone.
+Going under this they passed through the hole above, one climbing on the
+other's shoulder and afterwards giving him help from above. The passage
+was not easy.
+
+The next difficulty is made up of two lodged stones about 10 ft. apart.
+The first might be passed in dry weather. A tempting ledge to the left
+was climbed without result; ultimately they rounded the obstacle by
+keeping to the right.
+
+On September 19 W. E. C., H. R. B., and M. K. S. ascended the North
+Gully. They describe it as containing seven pitches, two of which are
+caverns. They believed that this gully had only once been climbed clean
+before--namely, in the autumn of 1888, by Messrs. R. W. and T. W.
+
+On April 1, 1892, H. B. D., F. W. G., and A. M. M., with Mrs. D. and
+Mrs. C., ascended the North Gully in 2 hours 10 minutes. The last pitch
+gave some trouble.
+
+In August 1892 W. H. P. and G. B. B. climbed all the pitches of the
+North Gully clean, taking the sixth from the bottom by the right side
+and the rocks straight to the summit stones, from where the gully
+divides. Time, 91 minutes. There is a singular difference of opinion
+among climbers as to the relative difficulty of these two climbs.
+Varying conditions of rocks and climbers may partly account for this.
+Without pretending to decide the matter either way the writer would
+give it as his experience that unusual conditions more readily affect
+the southern for evil and the northern for good. For instance, wet or
+ice makes the former very nasty without altering the latter to the same
+extent, while really deep and good snow moderately improves the former
+but converts the latter into a delusion and a mockery, for it ceases
+altogether to be a climb at all, and becomes a mere snow walk. Even then
+it is worth doing if it were only to see the wonderful convoluted
+strata, in the case of more than one great block imitating the rings in
+the trunk of a tree.
+
+_Nor'-Nor' Gully._--On September 18, 1891, Messrs. W. E. C., G. S., and
+M. K. S. ascended a gully leading on to the north ridge of Tryfaen just
+to the north of the most northerly of the three peaks. The gully
+contains three pretty pitches, all of which were climbed, but two of
+them can be turned.
+
+There is yet a fourth gully, still further north, but it has only one
+obstacle in it, and more scree than anyone can possibly want. So much
+attention has been devoted to these gullies during the last few years
+that the ridges which separate them have been unduly neglected. To the
+writer at least they have always seemed to offer better climbing than
+any of the gullies, and that of a kind which is very much less common.
+The ridges on either side of the North Gully are especially fine, and
+would satisfy the most exacting but for one thing, and that is that the
+hold is almost too good.
+
+_The North Ridge_, from the head of Llyn Ogwen, is of very imposing
+appearance, and was long spoken of with bated breath. In reality it is a
+fine but very simple and safe approach to the summit. The gluttonous
+climbers of the present day will probably complain that it is not a
+climb at all, but, though the difficulties, such as they are, can all be
+turned, the more enterprising members of a party can always find
+abundant outlets for their energies in numerous wayside problems.
+
+Some of the rocks are very fantastic in shape; one projecting
+horizontally bears a resemblance to a crocodile and can be easily
+recognised from the east. Highly crystalline quartz veins render the
+rock surfaces even rougher than they would otherwise be, and in a few
+places the face of the rock is covered with egg-like projections, each
+containing a core of quartz. At a little distance they look like huge
+barnacles; their real nature may be left to the geologists.
+
+On reaching the heads of the principal gullies the climber will fall in
+with some capital rocks on or beside his path along the ridge. At the
+very top he cannot fail even in mist to recognise the two upright
+rectangular stones, which are so conspicuous from afar. The feat of
+jumping from one to the other, by the performance of which Mr. Bingley's
+friend made that eminent traveller's 'blood chill with horror' nearly a
+hundred years ago, is not as difficult as it has been represented to be,
+and the danger of falling over the precipice in case of failure is
+purely imaginary. The unskilful leaper would merely fall on to the rough
+stones at the base of the pillars. Of the two jumps, that from north to
+south is the easier. Bingley's guide, perhaps anxious to cap the Saxon's
+feat, told him that 'a female of an adjoining parish was celebrated for
+having often performed this daring leap.' Large as the pillars are it is
+difficult to believe that they were placed in the position they occupy
+by unassisted nature; they seem too upright, too well squared, and too
+level-topped; with a cross-piece on the top they would form a
+nobly-placed 'trilithon,' of which any 'dolmen-builder' might be proud.
+
+_The West Side._--A great part of this is occupied by a series of huge
+slabs, which have been compared by F. H. B. to Flat Crags on Bow Fell.
+In places luxuriant heather artfully conceals sudden drops and rolling
+stones on account of which several tempting descents on this side will
+prove annoying. The only important gully is well seen from Benglog. To
+reach it strike south-east by the highroad at a point about half a mile
+east of Benglog. About half-way up the gully trends away to the left,
+and comes out at a deep notch in the summit ridge. Excellent scrambling
+again may be found by climbing up eastward from the shore of Bochllwyd.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: TRYFAEN FROM THE NORTH-WEST.]
+
+=Moel Siabod= (2,860 ft.) is ascended most easily from Capel Curig, but
+Dolwyddelan and Penygwrhyd are only slightly more distant, though
+considerably more boggy. The ascent is worth making, for the sake of the
+excellent view of Snowdon. The east side is by far the most abrupt, and
+here a few good crags are found. From this side also the mountain looks
+its best, but even seen from the west, the tamer side, it is,
+especially when snow-clad and lit by the setting sun, a remarkably
+effective feature in the landscape.
+
+Readers of 'Madoc,' if such indeed there be, may remember that Southey
+was benighted on the hills around Dolwyddelan. In that episode Moel
+Siabod may well have played a part.
+
+About the year 1830 Mr. Philip Homer was benighted on it, and died of
+exhaustion. Mention of this accident is made both by Roscoe (1836) and
+by Cliffe, who says he heard many details from an eye-witness. The body
+was taken to Capel Curig and buried there.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Snowdon= (3,560 ft.) is the loftiest peak in this island south of
+Scotland, and one of the most beautiful that is to be seen anywhere. The
+name seems to have originally described a whole district which the Welsh
+called Craig Eryri (variously rendered 'rock of eagles' and 'rock of
+snow'). The peak itself is called Y Wyddfa (pronounced 'E Withva'),
+which is usually translated 'place of presence' or 'of recognition;' but
+the splendid suppleness of the Welsh language admits of rival
+renderings, such as 'place of shrubs or trees,' with which may be
+compared the name Gwyddallt--i.e. 'woody cliff;' and even, as a
+non-climber once observed, on seeing a panting form appear at the top of
+a gully on Clogwyn Garnedd, 'place for a goose.'
+
+Leland speaks of 'the greate Withaw hille,' and says 'all Cregeryri is
+Forest,' and, in another place, 'horrible with the sight of bare stones
+as Cregeryri be.'
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Snowdon may be climbed from many points. The nearest inns are
+Penygwrhyd, Beddgelert, Snowdon Ranger, and Llanberis. The peculiarity
+of Snowdon consists in the huge cwms which radiate from its summit, and
+these will be found described in their order, following the course of
+the sun, and the climbs to be found in each will be indicated.
+
+Books on Snowdon are simply countless, and the same remark applies to
+the pictures which have been taken of it and the panoramas which have
+been drawn from it.
+
+Unfortunately a very large number of fatal accidents have taken place on
+this mountain, and an interesting but somewhat incomplete article on
+this subject will be found in _Chambers's Journal_ for May 1887. The Mr.
+Livesey there mentioned as having been killed by lightning seems to have
+been really named Livesley, and was of Ashton, in Mackerfield,
+Lancashire. This occurred on Sunday, September 21, 1884 (the _Times_,
+September 23).
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: CWM GLAS AND THE PARSON'S NOSE, FROM THE WEST]
+
+=Cwm Glas.=--As there are three or four tarns on Snowdon called Llyn
+Glas, so the name of Cwm Glas appears to have been confusingly popular.
+Cwm Glas proper lies immediately under Crib y Ddysgl, and Crib Goch on
+the north side; but, to say nothing of the next hollow to the west,
+which is called Cwm Glas Bach (i.e. little), a recess lying just north
+of both is called by the same name, and it would appear, from some of
+the early topographers, that they understood the term to comprehend the
+whole valley which forms the west approach to the Llanberis Pass. The
+proper cwm can only be reached from Llanberis or from Penygwrhyd. From
+the latter (the usual starting-point) the simplest, though not the
+shortest, way is to go over the pass and down to Pontygromlech, and
+there, instead of crossing by the bridge, bear away to the left, and up
+into the cwm. Experts can save something by striking off much earlier
+near the top of the pass. Those who come from Llanberis will leave the
+highroad at a point 3-1/2 miles from the station and about half a mile
+short of the cromlech.
+
+Before the two pools come into sight several short but striking pieces
+of rock are met with, and, indeed, the rock scenery on all sides is
+extremely fine. Many people come here for that reason alone, and are
+content to see the rocks without climbing them. For them there is an
+easy way up to join the Llanberis path by way of the grassy slope west
+of the Parson's Nose, of which more anon. Between the two a second ridge
+is seen, smaller than the Nose, and roughly parallel to it, leading out
+on to Ddysgl, much further up. Not far from this Mr. F. R. Wilton died
+in 1874 (see _Crib y Ddysgl_) and Mr. Dismore was killed in 1882.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Parson's Nose.=--The best known climb in Cwm Glas is on the rock called
+Clogwyn y Person (i.e. 'Parson's Cliff'), alias the =Parson's Nose=. It
+is a spur of Crib y Ddysgl, and is easily identified by its projecting
+in a northerly direction between the two little pools in Cwm Glas. No
+one seems to know the origin of the name; possibly it may have been
+scaled by the famous climbing cleric who haunted Snowdonia half a
+century ago. The most striking feature of this fine arete is the
+wonderful excellence of the hold. Faces crossed by precarious-looking
+ledges are found on a closer inspection to have behind those ledges
+deep, narrow, vertical rifts, affording the perfection of hand-hold,
+while the rock surface itself is so prickly and tenacious that
+boot-nails grip splendidly, and the only difficulty for the fingers is
+that some of them are apt to get left behind on the rocks. It may be
+climbed direct up the face, either from the very foot or from a point
+more to the right and some 30 ft. higher up. The height of the initial
+climb is something like 100 ft. Again, there is a gully on each side of
+the actual Nose, and it is usually climbed by one or other of these. The
+western gully is blocked above by an overhanging rock, over or under
+which it is necessary to climb or crawl. The gully on the opposite or
+east side is longer, and generally much wetter, and is on that account
+considered more difficult either to go up or to come down. The three
+ascents unite close to the cairn. Above the cairn the ridge continues,
+broken by only two respectable pitches, and leads on to the great tower
+on Crib y Ddysgl, some 1,200 ft. above the beginning of the climb. It is
+not, however, necessary, in order to get up out of Cwm Glas on to the
+main ridge, to climb the Nose at all; by proceeding west and over some
+white quartz slabs, close under the ridge, and then turning left, one
+can get out easily a few feet from the top of the Nose, or nearly the
+same point may be reached from the east side, only it will be after a
+less interesting and generally somewhat wetter ascent. If a climb is
+desired when the gullies are in a dangerous condition, there is a place
+further to the right than the right-hand or west gully where a very
+steep but safe scramble among big blocks leads up on to the bridge of
+the Nose.
+
+The following ascents are noted in the book at Penygwrhyd, that by T. W.
+and R. W. being probably the first:--
+
+_1887, September 18._--W. E. C. and A. E.
+
+_1890, June 21._--W. P. and G. B. B. tried the Parson's Nose, and,
+climbing the cleft from the south side, crawled between the rocks which
+block its upper part, then up the crags to the right for a short
+distance.
+
+_1892, April 2._--A party which had ascended the north gully of Tryfaen
+the day before ascended the Parson's Nose up the ridge, starting from
+the cleft. About 50 ft. above it a wall of rock is met which must be
+climbed either round a corner on the right hand or up a steep chimney on
+the left. The latter route was chosen, but a large stone (the middle one
+of three on the left side of the chimney) slipped, and remained in a
+dangerous position.
+
+_1892, August._--W. H. P. and G. B. B. climbed the 'wall of rock'
+straight up, which they thought easier than the chimney to the left or
+the green gully to the right.
+
+_September 23._--Mrs. H., Miss B., and a large party of gentlemen
+climbed the Parson's Nose by the gully on the Llanberis side and the
+jammed stone.
+
+Bingley visited this cwm at the close of last century, and gives a good
+description of it. He was much impressed by Caddy of Cwm Glas, the
+strong woman. Her real name, by the way, was Catherine Thomas.
+
+Cwm Glas Bach also has some fine rocks, and from the head of it up to
+Cyrn Las a good climb may be had.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Crib Goch= ('The Red Ridge') stretches down westward from Crib y Ddysgl
+to about opposite the summit of the Pass of Llanberis. The name is
+sometimes used for the whole length of both cribs. This is admitted on
+all hands to be inaccurate, if convenient, but there is some difference
+of opinion as to where the line of demarcation should be drawn. Some say
+at Bwlch Goch (2,816 ft.), while others put it a quarter of a mile or
+more further west. About 500 yards east of the Bwlch, at almost the
+highest point (3,023 ft.) of the ridge, a side-ridge strikes away to the
+north, while the main line continues eastward. The well-known pinnacles
+(including the 'Crazy' one) are close to Bwlch Goch, and on the north
+side of the ridge overlooking Cwm Glas. The southern side, sloping into
+Cwm Dyli, though very steep, is much less precipitous and rocky than the
+other.
+
+[Illustration: CRIB GOCH
+
+(Snowdon beyond)]
+
+_Starting Points._--Penygwrhyd and Gorphwysfa have almost a monopoly of
+Crib Goch, because for all other places--such as Llanberis, Beddgelert,
+Capel Curig, or Bettws y Coed--the distance from Gorphwysfa has simply
+to be added as so many extra miles along a highroad. In the case of
+Capel Curig this makes very little difference, seeing that Penygwrhyd
+lies on the direct route for any ascent of Snowdon, and to the latter
+there is no nobler approach than that along this ridge. Some have
+thought it sensational, and many have described its terrors in very
+sensational language; in fact, it takes the place which among the
+English lakes is filled by the far less striking Striding Edge on
+Helvellyn; but in truth, though it is the sort of place where ice, mist,
+and high wind may encroach to some extent on the margin of safety, to a
+steady head and foot there is no danger whatever. As for the hands, they
+are hardly required at all, though for those who like it plenty of real
+climbing can be had on the way.
+
+[Illustration: PINNACLES OF CRIB GOCH]
+
+Any mountaineer worthy of the name will admit that the ridge walk up
+Snowdon by Lliwedd and down by Crib Goch is for its length one of the
+finest in Europe. The mere gymnast also finds here plenty of enjoyment
+and almost infinite variety. He may mount by the east ridge or by the
+north ridge, or in the corner between the two. Again, the north ridge
+may be reached by either of two gullies in its eastern flank. Of these
+two gullies the more southerly is the steepest and longest, and may be
+recognised at some distance by a peculiar split or gap, while the other
+and more northerly, formed in rock of most cutting quality, offers a
+convenient passage to the foot of the steep part of the north ridge,
+from which point there is, if required, an easy descent into Cwm Glas.
+
+The north ridge gives a short, pleasant scramble, and is somewhat
+sheltered from southerly winds, which are sometimes an annoyance on the
+east ridge.
+
+Further west there are several good gullies on the Cwm Glas side,
+especially round about the pinnacles. The Crazy Pinnacle may be ascended
+either on the north-east or on the south-west side. The former is now
+more favoured since the fall of a certain large stone on the latter,
+which gave a useful hold in former days. Thirty years ago this ridge was
+almost unknown. A writer of 1833 seems to imply that it had been
+ascended by saying that 'the passage of it is hazardous, from the
+shortness and slippery quality of the grass at those seasons of the year
+when the mountain may be approached;' but this is evidently a mere
+misapplication of what others had said about Clawdd Goch (Bwlch y Maen),
+on the other side of the mountain, and we do not hear of anyone climbing
+here before C. A. O. B. (1847) and F. H. B. a few years later. Between
+1865 and 1875 it became better known, and in the books at Penygwrhyd we
+find it recorded that in April 1884 H. and C. S. climbed from Cwm Dyli,
+thence along the ridge by Crib y Ddysgl to the summit of Y Wyddfa.
+
+In 1887, on June 30, E. K. climbed Crib Goch from Cwm Glas by the gully
+to the left of the outstanding or Crazy Pinnacle. Near the top two big
+stones are jammed in, and this compelled him to leave the gully; but on
+June 29, 1890, G. S. S. found these stones climbable by the aid of a
+crack in the rocks on the left hand. From this point the ridge can be
+reached by taking to the rocks on the right. They are sound, which is
+more than can be said for those on the left of the gully a little
+farther down.
+
+[Illustration: PART OF CRIB GOCH]
+
+On July 31 and August 2 E. K. scrambled up the other gullies nearer
+Bwlch Goch, and found them easier than the first, which is the main one
+seen from Cwm Glas. He pronounced these climbs well worth trying, but
+not fit for beginners.
+
+On June 17, 1890, W. P. and G. B. B. ascended to Bwlch Goch, and bearing
+round the foot of the first pinnacle, climbed the gully between the
+first and the second. They found the holding good, but the rocks by
+which the gully is blocked somewhat difficult to pass.
+
+In 1894, on September 14, W. E. C., S., and B. climbed Crib Goch to the
+central cairn from Cwm Glas.
+
+On December 9, 1894, J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E. climbed the face from
+Cwm Glas beside an insignificant watercourse, reaching the ridge at the
+ruined cairn, then, passing along to the Crazy Pinnacle, scrambled down
+the gully on the Llanberis Pass side of it. The latter climb they
+describe as short but excellent, and the former as also good. No more
+climbs here are described in the _Book of Penygwrhyd_, but many others
+have been made. The truth is that for the last quarter of a century
+hardly a climber has visited Wales without making Crib Goch a primary
+object, and consequently there is not a climb on it whereof men say
+'See, this is new.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Crib y Ddysgl.=--The name is pronounced practically 'Cribbythiskle,'
+and sometimes written 'Distyl,' a spelling probably due to a desire to
+support the common derivation of the name from 'destillare' i.e.
+'dripping ridge.' The climate of Wales, however, is not such as to make
+any ridge remarkable merely because it drips, and moreover the
+derivation will not account for the other instances of the word. For
+instance, two or three miles west of the Pitt's Head we have Trum y
+Ddysgyl, and the proximity to it of Cwmtrwsgyl suggests that some
+distinction is expressed by the penultimate syllables. Attempts to
+derive the name from 'disgl' (= 'dish') seem equally futile. Possibly
+the explanation may be found in the word 'dysgwyl' ('watch,' 'expect')
+(compare Disgwylfa, in Cardiganshire), which would make it parallel to
+names like Lookingstead, &c.
+
+The highest point of Crib y Ddysgl is called Carnedd Ugain, and is a
+worthy rival of Y Wyddfa itself, being, according to the Ordnance
+surveyors, only 69 ft. lower--viz. 3,491 ft.--and from some points of
+view a really beautiful peak.
+
+From the highest point a narrow crest runs due east, reaching in about a
+quarter of a mile the huge buttress called Clogwyn y Person, which comes
+up out of Cwm Glas and has been described with it. This part is
+sometimes spoken of as the Gribin, a name which the large Ordnance map
+does not give, and I know of no other authority for it, though it is
+quite a likely place to bear the name. The main ridge continues east
+until it joins Crib Goch. The ridge, though sharp, is not a likely place
+for an accident to a climber, and, indeed, no accident seems to have
+occurred actually on the ridge, but more than one death has taken place
+close by. On August 10, 1874, a young man of great promise, Mr.
+Frederick Roberts Wilton, son of Mr. Robert Wilton, of Doncaster,[12]
+and a master in the City of London School, ascended Snowdon from
+Llanberis, and seems to have asked his way to Capel Curig, and to have
+been informed (not quite accurately) that he must turn to the right
+'near the spring,' which is a good bit beyond the proper point of
+divergence from the Llanberis path. His body was ultimately found a
+fortnight later 'in the slippery course of a small mountain stream which
+descends sharply from the most southerly branch of the miners' path
+immediately below Crib y Ddysgl into the basin known as Cwm Glas.
+Evidently he had gone down a steep shingly slope with a wall of rock on
+his right hand over the entrance of a rocky watercourse.' These details
+are taken from a letter of his colleague, Mr. W. G. Rushbrooke. As the
+body was found in a posture of repose, and there was no sign of any
+injury sufficient to cause death, there is some reason to fear that this
+unfortunate gentleman died of exposure. For further details see the
+_Times_ for August 22, 24, 26, and 28, 1874.
+
+  [12] See the _Doncaster Chronicle_.
+
+Another death from exposure took place here in the following
+year--namely, that of Mr. Edward Grindley Kendall, of Crosby, near
+Leicester, of whom something will be said under the head of _Cwm Dyli_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cwm Dyli= (pronounced 'Dully') is the great eastern recess of Snowdon,
+and universally admitted to be the finest thing of the kind in Wales.
+The long sharp ridge of Crib Goch and Crib y Ddysgl bounds it on the
+north, while the almost equally fine, though less regular, ridge and
+majestic crags of Lliwedd shut it in on the south. It contains Llyn
+Llydaw (Hluddow), the largest lake, and Glaslyn, the finest tarn on the
+whole mountain, and is one reason why the ascent of Snowdon from Capel
+Curig is the finest of all.
+
+The stream forms some fine cascades (800 ft. above sea level) in its
+descent to the Vale of Gwynant. Half a mile above these cascades Clogwyn
+Aderyn, on the north bank of the stream, and Clogwyn Penllechen, between
+it and Llyn Teyrn (1,238 ft.), have a climb or two on them. At this llyn
+the path from Gorphwysfa comes in, and along it the great majority of
+people enter the cwm. The next landmark as we ascend is Llyn Llydaw
+(1,416 ft.), nearly a mile long, the elevation of which so close an
+observer as Cliffe over-estimated by more than 1,000 ft. Climbers bound
+for Lliwedd leave the lake entirely on the right, and find a foot-bridge
+close to the exit of the stream from it. The path to Snowdon crosses the
+lake by a stone causeway, which is rarely submerged by floods. From the
+head of Llyn Llydaw there is a steep rise--555 ft. in a quarter of a
+mile--to the tarn called Glaslyn (1,971 ft.) Between this and the sky
+line at the head of the cwm, 1,290 ft. higher, only one more hollow
+remains, called Pantylluchfa, and here the crags of Clogwyn y Garnedd
+show up magnificently. It may be mentioned that many people get
+hopelessly confused in reading or giving descriptions of Snowdon,
+because they fail to distinguish Glaslyn, here, from Llyn Glas, half a
+mile to the north of it, in Cwm Glas, and another Llyn Glas less than a
+mile due west in Cwm Clogwyn. If they know Glaslyn they naturally assume
+that it must be in Cwm Glas, and if they know Cwm Glas they place
+Glaslyn in it. Some of the confusion would be avoided if the latter
+were called by what would seem to be its older and true
+name--Llynffynnonglas.
+
+[Illustration: SNOWDON FROM GLASLYN
+
+  _a_, Bwlch y Snethan.
+  _b_, Summit, with Clogwyn y Garnedd below.
+  _c_, Junction of paths from Penygwrhyd and Llanberis.]
+
+Cwm Dyli was the scene in 1875 of one of the strangest of all the
+disasters which have happened on the mountain. The victim was Mr. Edward
+Grindley Kendal, of Crosby, near Leicester, who on June 11 left Gwynant
+Valley in order to ascend Snowdon. Nothing more was heard of him or his
+till the end of that month, when a Mr. and Mrs. David Moseley,
+descending with a guide, found on the edge of Llyn Llydaw a wet and
+mouldy pair of boots, each containing a stocking marked 'Kendal' and a
+garter. It was at once surmised that the missing man had been wading and
+become engulfed in quicksands, which were stated to be numerous. His
+friends went so far as to employ a professional diver to explore the
+bottom of the lake, though it would seem that if the body was in the
+water simpler means would have answered the purpose, and if it was below
+the water the diver could neither find it nor follow it. At any rate he
+did not find it, because it was not there. It was found about ten days
+later on Crib y Ddysgl uninjured--it was identified by Mr. Ison,
+brother-in-law of the deceased and the jury at Llanberis found a verdict
+of 'death from exposure.' It was not precisely stated on what part of
+Crib y Ddysgl the body was found, and nothing transpired as to the
+condition of the feet; but it is simply amazing to anyone familiar with
+the character of the ground that a bare-footed man should ever have got
+so far. Why he did it and how he did it will always remain among the
+mysteries of Snowdon.[13] Other deaths have taken place in this cwm,
+for which see under _Lliwedd_ and _Clogwyn y Garnedd_.
+
+  [13] The _Times_, July 2, 6, 8, and 15, 1875.
+
+It is curious that two of the lakes in this valley are among those
+mentioned 200 years ago by the learned Edward Lhwyd as 'distinguished by
+names scarce intelligible to the best Criticks in the British.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Clogwyn y Garnedd y Wyddfa=--i.e. 'the Precipice under the Cairn of
+Snowdon'--has been commonly known by the first three words only for at
+least 200 years. It is one of the grandest cliffs on Snowdon, and gives
+very fine climbing.
+
+For more than two centuries this precipice has been famous as a refuge
+for rare ferns and plants. The guide William Williams, well known as a
+botanist, lost his life here while in search of the Woodsia; so at least
+says Mr. T. G. Bonney, though he is far from accurate in the date of the
+accident, which, writing in 1874, he describes as having taken place
+'some twenty years ago.' The actual date was June 19, 1861.[14] The old
+guide had taken up a lady and gentleman from Llanberis, and went from
+the top alone to gather ferns. The fall was 'down a declivity of three
+hundred yards.' The body was found at the foot of the precipice, after
+'scouts' had been sent out. He had fallen from the point where the slope
+suddenly changes from about 45 deg. to, perhaps, 75 deg. or 80 deg. The spot where
+he slipped was for many years, and perhaps still is, marked by a white
+stone.
+
+  [14] See the _Times_, June 25, 1861.
+
+On the shore of Glaslyn, at the south-west corner, there is a small
+cross of wood marking the spot where the body of Mr. Maxwell Haseler was
+found. He was making for Snowdon by the Lliwedd ridge, and fell from a
+short distance above Bwlch y Saethau. The party seem to have been well
+equipped, and contained members of experience, who were not without
+ropes and axes. They started on January 26, 1879, for Snowdon by
+Lliwedd, and, after lunching about 1 P.M. on Bwlch y Saethau, proceeded
+in the direction of Snowdon. Mr. Haseler took a separate course, more to
+the right hand, and almost immediately seems to have slipped and fallen.
+His body was found next morning by the shore of Glaslyn, and it was
+reckoned that he had fallen some 600 or 700 ft. The inquest was held at
+Penygwrhyd. The victim of this accident was only twenty-three years
+old.[15]
+
+  [15] The _Times_, January 29 and February 7, 1879; _Chambers's
+  Journal_, May 7, 1887.
+
+The following notes are among the records of Penygwrhyd:--
+
+On September 23, 1887, W. E. C. and A. E. ascended Snowdon from Glaslyn
+by the first gully on Clogwyn y Garnedd.
+
+In 1890, on June 20, W. P. and G. B. B. descended from Snowdon to
+Haseler's Cross by the gully immediately above it in Clogwyn y Garnedd.
+
+In 1890, on September 27, F. W. J. found an excellent gully climb,
+possibly that referred to in the note of September 23, 1887. He started
+from Glaslyn, keeping to the right edge of the lake, and, facing towards
+Bwlch y Saethau, saw a gully choked by jammed stones (five in number),
+beginning almost from the foot. It has often been climbed. The most
+interesting and difficult piece is where a large stone roofs a cavern
+some 15 ft. high. In it there is a kind of skylight, through which the
+climber must go by an indescribable twist of the body. From the bottom
+of the gully to the huts where the climb ends is 900 ft., all except a
+portion of the upper end being narrow gully, and the rest a scramble
+over rocks.
+
+On December 13, 1891, Mrs. H. ascended the big Clogwyn y Garnedd gully
+direct to the summit of Snowdon.
+
+On September 24, 1892, Miss B. and a large party of gentlemen climbed
+(second lady's ascent) the Clogwyn y Garnedd gully through the cavern.
+
+In May 1893 a party climbed up by this and down by the next gully, on
+the north, which has its head just below the huts.
+
+In September 1893 the two Misses T. descended the great gully in 1 hour
+25 minutes.
+
+In 1894, on September 14, Messrs. W. E. C., S., and B. descended the
+face of Clogwyn y Garnedd to the left of the big gully.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: SNOWDON FROM THE NORTH, WITH LLIWEDD ON THE LEFT]
+
+=Lliwedd= (2,947 ft.) stretches away eastward from the summit of
+Snowdon, dividing Cwm Dyli on the north from Cwm y Llan on the south.
+Strictly speaking, perhaps the name only applies to the central portion,
+where its magnificent northern crags overlook the head of Llyn Llydaw,
+but, as in the case of Crib Goch, the significance of the name has
+been enlarged, and it is frequently used to denote the whole length of
+the ridge.
+
+At the Nant Gwynant end a transverse ridge, called Gallt y Wenallt,
+bears near its base some remarkably fine rocks, on which there is very
+good climbing. West of the Gallt a side valley, called Cwm Merch, runs
+nearly due south, and beyond this Cwm Lliwedd proper begins. The
+southern slope of it is steep, but that to the north is imposingly
+precipitous. It is, in fact, unsurpassed in Wales. Advancing in the
+direction of Snowdon, the cliffs become less sheer and the crest less
+broken, and as soon as the highest point of Crib Goch is 'on with' the
+head of Llydaw Bwlch Ciliau offers a rough descent into Cwm Dyli. Next
+on the west comes the Criman, corresponding geographically to Clogwyn y
+Person on Ddysgl, but more broken; beyond them Bwlch y Saethau (i.e.
+_Arrows Gap_), leading down to the head of Glaslyn. The last quarter of
+a mile up to the top of Snowdon is very steep, rising nearly 1,000 ft.
+in that distance. It was here that Mr. Maxwell Haseler, in 1879, lost
+his life by keeping too much to the right.
+
+[Illustration: LLIWEDD FROM THE NORTH-WEST.]
+
+In August 1872 Mr. T. H. Murray Browne and Mr. W. R. Browne, the
+discoverers of the Scafell Pinnacle, saw the merits of this climb, and
+attacked it without success. Public attention was first drawn to Lliwedd
+as a climbing-ground by the ascent made in 1883 by Messrs. T. W. Wall
+and A. H. Stocker, and thus described by the former in the _Alpine
+Journal_:[16]--
+
+  [16] Vol. xi. p. 239.
+
+'This northern face consists of four buttresses, with three fairly
+well-defined couloirs between them. The summit ridge has two peaks, of
+which the western, nearer Snowdon, is the higher by a few feet. In
+January 1882 from the summit of Crib Goch Mr. A. H. Stocker and myself
+were struck by the grand appearance of the Lliwedd cliffs, and hearing
+from Owen, the landlord of the Penygwrhyd Hotel, that the northern face
+had never been climbed, the desire to make the first ascent naturally
+came upon us. On the 10th we made our first attempt by the central
+couloir, which leads up to the depression between the two summits. As it
+was raining the whole day the rocks were in an abominable state, and it
+was with the greatest difficulty that we managed to get up about 150
+ft.' On January 3, 1883, they tried again. 'On January 4, after
+carefully observing the rocks of the buttress to the west of the central
+couloir, we came to the conclusion that it might be possible to cross
+the face in an upward direction from east to west, and then strike
+straight up. At 11.15 A.M. we got on the rocks, beginning from the lower
+of two dark green patches seen from below. From this a ledge runs up to
+the right, and if it had only been continuous Lliwedd would present no
+very great difficulties. Unfortunately this was not the case; there were
+most formidable-looking gaps in it, and the ledges above and below were
+tacked on to it by smooth and almost perpendicular gullies. Three bits
+in particular may be mentioned as far the hardest, although they are
+more or less typical of these crags, which nowhere offer 20 consecutive
+yards of easy rock-work. The first difficulty which presented itself was
+where the ledge was broken by a bold face of rock. One of us was pushed
+to the top of the smooth part, and finding that he could not descend to
+the ledge on the other side, he ascended a little higher, anchored
+himself firmly to the rocks, assisted his companion up, and let him down
+to the required ledge; then, throwing the rope over a pinnacle, he gave
+both ends to his companion to hold tight, and slid down the 40 ft. of
+rope to join him. After a few yards of easier work we came to a ledge
+about 6 inches wide and 4 yards long; the rock above was nearly
+perpendicular, with no hand-hold, and there was nothing below. It was
+the only way; we could not turn it, and somehow we got over, but neither
+of us wishes to be there again. From that ever-to-be-remembered ledge
+the climbing was grand work up to the point where we had to turn from a
+westerly direction to go straight up the face. Here there was one nasty
+corner. A narrow ledge about 2 inches wide had below it a sloping face
+of rock with three minute cracks in it. One of us had crossed this in
+safety, and so assumed a position in which the rope would have been of
+very little use. He was then opposed by a steep bit, topped by 4 ft. of
+perpendicular rock, with a very steep slope of heather above. At the
+moment that his last foot left the highest peg of rock his other knee
+slipped, and the heather, grass, and earth began to give way in his left
+hand. It was an awkward moment, for the other man was not well situated
+for supporting a jerk at the end of 30 ft. of rope, which would mean a
+fall of about 50 ft. Happily the other knee got on the heather and the
+axe held firm in the earth. Our difficulties were then over. The rocks
+grew less and less difficult as we ascended, and after 4-1/2 hours of
+incessant work up 850 ft. of rocks we found ourselves on the summit
+ridge, exactly 13 yards from the cairn.
+
+[Illustration: LLIWEDD FROM LLYN LLYDAW
+
+  _a_, East buttress.
+  _b_, Central gully.
+  _c_, West buttress.
+  _d_, Slanting gully.]
+
+'It may be mentioned that the only real difficulties lie in the first
+200 ft.; above that point the mountain presents rock-work of a very high
+order, but nothing stupendously difficult, the rock being very firm.
+
+'Future climbers will probably find that of the three couloirs the
+western is comparatively easy; the central may perhaps be ascended by
+climbing the lower rocks on the right, and the eastern by a long detour
+to the left. The buttress to the left of the central couloir looks as
+difficult as rocks possibly can look. But there is a chance that a
+careful search among the rocks to the left of the central couloir might
+reward a rock-climber with an exciting and successful scramble. In any
+case the whole northern face is distinctly difficult.'
+
+Under the date of April 12, 1884, we find recorded by H. S. and C. S. an
+ascent of Lliwedd by the ridge from Llyn Llydaw, which is apparently
+nothing more than the ordinary walk, but in 1887, early in April, is an
+important note in the hand of Mr. Stocker.
+
+'_Hints for the Ascent of Lliwedd by the North Face._
+
+  (N.B. Lliwedd consists of two peaks--the eastern and western
+  buttress--with a well-defined gully running up between them.)
+
+'1. _Ascent of Western Buttress to the Right of Central Gully._--Make
+for the lower of two green patches easily seen from below just to the
+right of the foot of the central gully. From it work upwards to the
+right to the second green patch; then again upwards, still to the right,
+to a very small, steep green slope. From this the climb is almost
+straight up, inclining a little to the left at first. This will land the
+climber a few yards to the west of the cairn.
+
+'2. _Ascent by Central Gully and Western Buttress._--Go up the gully
+till the foot of the steep bit is reached; then climb out of the gully
+by ledges on the right on to the western buttress. As soon as possible
+make straight up the face, keeping the gully a little to the left. This
+will land the climber at the cairn.
+
+'No. 2 is an easier climb than No. 1. All through the hand and foot
+hold is very good. The chief difficulties lie in the first 200 ft. after
+leaving the gully. The upper part is fairly easy. The whole climb is
+about 850 ft.'
+
+In 1887, April 11, O. E. and T. V. S. ascended Lliwedd by the central
+gully at first and afterwards in a line rather left of the summit. Time,
+under 3-1/2 hours.
+
+In September 1887 W. E. C. and A. E. climbed Lliwedd by Mr. Stocker's
+second route in 1 hour 23 minutes from base to cairn, and subjoined a
+list of previous ascents, viz.--
+
+  First attempt. T. H. M. B. and W. R. B., August 1872 (Vis. Bk.)
+  January 7, 1883, Messrs. Stocker and Wall, by route 1.
+  April 24, 1884, Messrs. A. H. S. and P., by route 2.
+  April 11, 1887, Messrs. O. E. and T. V. S., by route 2.
+  September 10, 1887, Mr. R. W., by route 1.
+  September 20, 1887, Messrs. W. E. C. and A. E., by route 2.
+
+On May 20, 1888, Mr. Alfred Evans and two friends, W. E. C. and -- K.,
+left Penygwrhyd at 10 A.M., crossed the northern arete of Crib Goch and
+Cwm Glas, and climbed Clogwyn Person and by Crib y Ddysgl to the top of
+Snowdon. Evans and K. then descended by the second or third gully from
+Bwlch Glas on Clogwyn y Garnedd to the head of Llyn Llydaw. C., E., and
+K. started up the central gully of Lliwedd at 5.5 P.M. At the bottom,
+and for some distance up, the rocks are water-worn and but little broken
+up, and the water flowing down rendered this part difficult. At the
+moment when C. was about 300 ft. above the scree Evans was about 80 ft.
+below him, and could not advance. C., therefore, went down 3 or 4 ft.
+and rested. Evans then tried to get out of the gully by the ledge
+mentioned in Mr. Stocker's account. This ledge is divided in two parts
+by a huge outstanding buttress with very scanty footing. Both men passed
+this; then Evans lowered himself by K.'s ankle on to a rocky foothold
+and tried to work to the right, but after doing 5 or 6 ft.--half the
+requisite distance--his feet slipped, his arms were unable to support
+him, and he fell on his feet about 5 yards on to the edge of a steeply
+sloping grass ledge running up to this part of the cliff. From this
+point in four or five terrible leaps he fell over and over, a total
+distance of 200 ft., to the screes below. The accident happened at 6.55
+P.M., and K. is stated to have descended to the body, a distance of 200
+ft. of the most awkward climbing in the whole gully, in the space of 5
+minutes. This is hardly credible, but under such circumstances people do
+not judge time accurately.
+
+This accident need never have happened. If ever a party courted disaster
+it was done on this occasion.
+
+A cross was erected by friends of Mr. Evans on the spot where his body
+was found, but being much damaged by stones it had to be removed in 1892
+to a rocky knoll not far off, where its position is more secure. It
+records the age of Mr. Evans as 24.
+
+On June 10, 1889, M., A. L. M., and B. climbed the north face of Lliwedd
+by the rocks of the western buttress, keeping close to the central gully
+almost the whole of the way.
+
+On January 1, 1893, F. P., F. W. O., and H. J. R. ascended the north
+face of Lliwedd by the western buttress, starting just to the right of
+the central gully, and coming up at the cairn. Time, 3 hours.
+
+At Easter 1893 H. G. G. and -- W. climbed by the central gully and the
+western buttress, coming out at the cairn, in 3 hours 5 minutes, all the
+rocks being dry.
+
+On April 7, 1893, T. H. M. climbed the north-west face alone in 2-1/2
+hours: he found two difficult spots near where Messrs. G. and W.
+scratched their initials on the rocks. Everything was dry.
+
+On September 14, 1894, W. E. C. and M. K. S. ascended the central gully
+for about 200 ft., then went up the western buttress, and crossed the
+gully again to the eastern buttress, about 300 ft. below the top,
+reaching the summit in 2 hours and 20 minutes.
+
+On October 14, 1894, J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E. ascended the central
+gully to a point apparently beyond that where others have broken out
+upon the face, and continued up a steep stretch of rock by taking a
+narrow gutter between the centre and right wall, the upper part being
+found difficult. A broad ledge brought them to a similar reach, where
+the outward slope of the holds became more and more pronounced. Finding
+the rocks above quite impassable, the party descended by means of an
+iron claw, which had to be left, and then by a ledge in the right wall
+and an awkward corner got out on the face of the west buttress. Here
+they found the ledges narrow and the crags extremely steep, but working
+upwards and tending to the right they crossed an incipient gully by an
+awkward stride, and thereafter met with only ordinary difficulties, but
+on passing a cleft which opens into the gully enjoyed a magnificent view
+of the latter, and struck the summit at the cairn. They pronounced the
+climb to be quite impossible for one man.
+
+_The Slanting Gully._--This gully, on the west side of the western
+buttress, is easily identified, being the next one to the west of the
+great central gully and a striking feature of the north face of Lliwedd.
+It is clearly marked all the way up, and is most readily approached by
+crossing diagonally up the screes below the great gully and then
+skirting the base of the rocks of the western buttress. This gully was
+attacked on January 9, 1894, by Messrs. F. O. W., C. W. N., E. H. K.,
+and H. K. It was then frozen up and covered with snow to a depth varying
+from a few inches to 3 ft. In 4 hours an estimated height of 350 or 400
+ft. above the starting-point was attained, the whole of this distance,
+with the exception of a few steps in deep snow, having to be climbed.
+The party kept in the gully the whole way, usually close against the
+rocks on the western side. Progress was finally arrested at a point
+where the gully becomes, for some distance, a mere crack, formed by the
+western rocks overhanging an almost smooth slab, where hold for hand or
+foot seems almost entirely wanting. With longer time at disposal it
+seemed possible that this difficulty might have been surmounted by
+wriggling up inside the crack, or by a dangerous scramble on the face of
+the slab. Two members of the party were provided with crampons, and
+derived great steadiness and safety from their use. The uniformly steep
+angle at which this gully lies may be gathered from the fact that a
+ruecksack dropped from the highest point was picked up at the
+starting-point on the return. It was the opinion of most of the party
+that the condition of the snow and rocks was, on the whole, favourable
+for climbing, as the ice and snow gave some assistance in places which
+without them might have been still more difficult.
+
+The next attempt is valuable, as notes were taken on the heights of some
+of the obstacles.
+
+On March 26, 1894, the gully was attacked by J. C. M., O. M., and W. P.
+from the screes (2,300 ft.) at 1.55 P.M. They arrived in the cave (2,690
+ft.) at 5 P.M. They considered the conditions favourable, except that
+the snow was melting, but found the climbing difficult all the way. At
+about 2,500 ft. a chimney 70 ft. high had to be squirmed up. They were
+of opinion that the gully could not be climbed direct, and all their
+efforts to break out on either side were frustrated. The climbing does
+not, as in the central gully, become more easy as progress is made; on
+the contrary, the difficulties increase. The party carried two ropes,
+one of 50 ft. and one of 80 ft., and at one place had to use the full
+length of both together. The descent took 2 hours.
+
+On Thursday, August 30, 1894, this gully cost a valuable life. Mr. J.
+Mitchell, of Oxford, an assistant editor of the _New Historical English
+Dictionary_, started from the foot at about 2 P.M. The first pitch was
+quickly ascended, and he then proceeded, apparently without difficulty,
+to the foot of the long chimney, which he passed by means of the face.
+On reaching the top he waved his handkerchief, and, being asked what it
+was like, replied that it was very stiff. Not long after he was seen in
+a cave, which the lookers-on (probably in error) identified with the
+highest point reached by previous climbers. From this he climbed with
+great difficulty to the top, as it appeared from below, of a long chasm,
+with his head just below an overhanging rock, upwards of 150 ft. above
+the cave, and after more than half an hour of fruitless endeavour to
+make further progress he fell at 4.30 P.M., and was killed on the spot.
+The body was found at the above-mentioned cave, and was brought down by
+four quarrymen at great personal risk. The lesson which should be drawn
+from this is, that if a man will insist on climbing alone he should not
+choose for his attack climbs which parties of greater skill and
+experience than his own have found to be beyond their powers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cwm y Llan.=--This large cwm stretches away from Snowdon top to the
+south-east between Yr Aran and Lliwedd. The scenery consists mainly of
+the South Snowdon Slate Works, which occupy the centre of the valley, at
+a height of about 1,100 ft., and of Sir Edward Watkin's road up Snowdon.
+
+There is very little climbing, though some parts of Geuallt and Aran are
+very steep. On the Lliwedd side there is a good rock (Craig Ddu), not
+far from the slate works, and others rather smaller near the exit of the
+valley, while at the head, near Bwlch y Maen, almost under Snowdon and
+near Bwlch y Saethau, some difficult passages occur.
+
+The slate quarry here must not be confused with 'Cwm y Llan slate
+quarry,' which is not in this valley at all, but on the western slope of
+Aran, about a third of a mile beyond Bwlch Cwm y Llan. This little pass
+(about 1,700 ft.) is very useful to anyone who, after a climb on
+Lliwedd, wishes to reach the nearest railway station, for Pont Rhyd-ddu
+is very much nearer than Llanberis and can be reached without climbing
+over Snowdon summit. From the top of Lliwedd the pass is in full view,
+and a stone wall is seen stretching half-way from it towards two little
+reservoirs which are some 600 yards higher up the valley than the slate
+works. It is a mile and a half from Lliwedd by way of these reservoirs
+to the top of the bwlch, which will hardly be reached within half an
+hour. From the bwlch a fair path on the right bank of the stream leads
+towards Llynygader, and soon crosses the path from Snowdon to
+Beddgelert. By keeping round the hill to the right the Carnarvon
+highroad (which is easily seen from above) is gradually neared. The
+distance from the bwlch direct to the station may be covered in
+three-quarters of an hour, making in all 1-1/4 hour from Lliwedd, as
+compared with at least 2-1/2 hours which would be required to reach
+Llanberis from the same point.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cwm Creigiog= is a shallow and unimportant hollow on the south-west
+side of Snowdon, lying between Aran and the ordinary Beddgelert path to
+the summit. The cwm has no attractions for a climber, yet at least one
+life has been lost in it. This was in the winter of 1859, when a Mr. Cox
+is said to have ascended Snowdon from Llanberis, and to have become
+exhausted on the way down to Beddgelert, between Llechog and the farm
+called Fridduchaf. His foolish guide left him alone and went in search
+of food, with the result, which in such cases usually follows, of
+finding his unfortunate employer dead on his return. The spot is marked
+by a heap of stones. Mr. Baddeley says it 'marks the spot where a
+tourist lost his life from exhaustion in 1874'--perhaps a mistake
+arising out of a death of the same kind in that year on quite another
+part of the mountain.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Clogwyndur Arddu= ('Black Precipice') is the magnificent ridge which
+divides Cwm Clogwyn on the south from Cwm Brwynog on the north, being
+the western buttress of Y Wyddfa, or more strictly of Carnedd Ugain. The
+ascent from the Snowdon Ranger traverses nearly the whole length of the
+ridge, which broadens out at its western end into Moel y Cynghorion,
+beyond which again is the low pass of Bwlch Maes y Cwm (1,100 ft.),
+giving an easy passage from Llanberis to Snowdon Ranger and Beddgelert.
+The cliffs on the north side of the ridge are grand, and have been
+concerned in more than one fatal accident. In 1846 the Rev. Henry
+Wellington Starr, B.A., of Magdalen Hall, Oxford, eldest son of Mr.
+George Starr, of Hilperton, Wiltshire, and then a curate in Northampton,
+left Dolbadarn Inn on September 6 to ascend Snowdon. He failed to
+return, and on inquiry being made by his friends people came forward
+with evidence which seemed to show that he had reached the top of
+Snowdon, then descended to Gorphwysfa, crossed the head of Llanberis
+Pass, and ascended Glyder Fawr. At that point a guide professed to have
+met him, and brought him about half-way down, particularly noting that
+he wore a single glove, corresponding exactly to another which he had
+left with his luggage at the hotel. Search was made in every direction,
+but it was not till the beginning of June in the following year that any
+light was thrown on the mystery. On that day some of the clothes were
+found accidentally by William Hughes, a huntsman, who was exercising his
+dogs, apparently on Moel Cynghorion, and next day, on further search
+being made, the skeleton was discovered buried under gravel. His purse
+and chain were found, but his watch and ring were gone. It appears from
+the evidence of Griffith Ellis, of Llanberis, who found part of the
+remains, that the deceased had fallen over the cliff of Clogwyn Coch, on
+Moel Cynghorion, while ascending from Llyn Cwellyn--that is, by the
+'Snowdon Ranger' route.[17]
+
+  [17] The _Times_, 1846, October 14, October 24, October 30,
+  November 3, and 1847, June 5; the _Globe_, October 1846;
+  _Chambers's Journal_, May 1887.
+
+In 1859 a fatal accident took place near the eastern end of the ridge.
+The victim, George Henry Frodsham, a clerk in Liverpool, described as a
+young man of very fine physique, arrived at Llanberis on Saturday,
+August 13, accompanied by his cousin, F. A. Nicholson, and four friends,
+T. Clayhills, J. Snape, J. Goodiear, and A. Gardner. It was midnight,
+but they started off at once for Snowdon. They got as far as the
+'half-way house,' where the proper path turns left, and up towards Cyrn
+Las; they, however, took the right-hand fork, which leads to the old
+copper level above Llyn du'r Arddu. Struggling up the rocks from the
+mine, Frodsham, encumbered by an umbrella and a bag, and being,
+moreover, in the dark, slipped and fell, unknown to his friends, who
+returned to the proper path and gained the summit. His cousin is said to
+have searched for him continuously from 4 A.M. on Sunday to 9 P.M. on
+Monday. At 6 A.M. on Tuesday the body was found by W. Owen; the skull
+was fractured both at the top and at the back, and the bag and umbrella
+were found 200 yards higher up, indicating that distance as the extent
+of his fall. A sapient jury drew from this sad event the moral that a
+guide should be employed as a safeguard against sudden mists; but few
+men need fear mists less than those who choose to climb when it is pitch
+dark. It may be said that this party neglected no precaution which is
+likely to ensure a fatal accident--inexperience, fatigue, darkness,
+difficult rocks, the burden of bags and umbrellas.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Llechog= (i.e. 'Flat, Slabby Place').--There are two ridges of this
+name on Snowdon; one is traversed by the ordinary route from Beddgelert
+and that from Rhyd-ddu, and is precipitous on its curving north front;
+the other forms the western wall of Cwm Glas Bach, and is traversed for
+some distance by the pony path from Llanberis. Towards the Llanberis
+Pass road it presents a fine rocky ridge, very steep and lofty, on which
+good climbing may here and there be found.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Moel Eilio= (2,382 ft.), less than three miles south-west of Llanberis
+station, has a namesake on the west side of the river Conway, not far
+from Llanrwst. The name is sometimes spelt Aeliau. The view from the top
+is extremely fine; the ascent is easy, and, as there is a railway on
+each side of it, access to the foot of it is very simple. The rockiest
+side is towards the east. Early in the century a poor little fellow
+named Closs, while trying to follow his mother from Bettws Garmon to
+Llanberis, was lost on this mountain. The story is told by H. L. Jones
+(1829) in his finely illustrated book, and by Wright (1833) and Bennett
+(1838). The last-named gives his epitaph.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Garnedd Goch Range.=--=Garnedd Goch= (2,315 ft.) (i.e. 'The Red
+Cairns') is a very rugged and unfrequented range of hills lying to the
+west of Beddgelert. The huge Nantlle slate quarries on the north side of
+it have spoilt some very pretty scenery and some very pretty climbs.
+Beddgelert and Snowdon Ranger are good starting-points, and better still
+is Penygroes station, on the line from Portmadoc to Carnarvon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Moel Hebog= ('Hawk Hill,' 2,578 ft.) seems to have been ascended last
+century by Lord Lyttelton, by the Ordnance surveyors, and in August 1857
+by Mr. J. H. Cliffe, who in his book (published 1860) gives a clear
+description of his ascent. In his opinion one of the cairns on the
+summit was then 'very ancient.'
+
+It is essentially a Beddgelert mountain, but can be conveniently taken
+from many other places at the cost of more time, as, for instance, from
+Snowdon Ranger on the north, Tremadoc and Criccieth on the south, and
+Brynkir station on the west.
+
+A man in the pink of condition who knows the way well can get to the top
+from Beddgelert in about three-quarters of an hour, but most people take
+1-1/2 or 2 hours. The horizontal distance is under 2 miles, nearly the
+same as that from Wastdale Head to Scafell Pike; but the vertical
+height is less by one-quarter.
+
+The proper route is very simple. A shoulder runs down north-west on to
+the Carnarvon road, and the ridge of it, after being reached by
+proceeding due west from Beddgelert, is followed straight to the top.
+This shoulder may, of course, be used by those who approach from the
+Snowdon Ranger, but for them a better plan is to take, about 1/4 mile
+after passing the Pitt's Head, a road which continues on the right bank
+of the stream to Glan y Gors, a few yards beyond which a turning on the
+right leads across a side stream and past the farm of Hafod Ryffydd to
+the foot of Cwm Meillionen, and, by following either the cwm or the
+ridge on the left hand, the top of Moel Hebog is easily reached.
+
+The routes from Tremadoc, Criccieth, and Brynkir all take the dull side
+of the mountain; but this disadvantage is counterbalanced by the
+increased effect which this gives to the view of Snowdon on reaching the
+top, and to the peep down into the valley of Beddgelert, below. The most
+difficult way to hit off is that from Nantlle, but in point of rock
+scenery it is the finest of all, and was chosen by the Alpine Club for
+their excursion when they met here in 1883.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Mynydd Mawr= (i.e. 'Great Mountain') rises just opposite to and west of
+the Snowdon Ranger Inn.
+
+The noble crag Castell Cidwm (i.e. castle of the wolf or robber) runs
+steeply down to Llyn Cwellyn, and well deserves a visit. Borrow, on
+seeing it from the south, was reminded of Gibraltar. Craig y Bera also,
+which overhangs Drws y Coed, is part of this mountain, and has some very
+striking rock scenery.
+
+
+Denbigh.
+
+This county has little climbing. A few rocks near Bettws y Coed offer
+short climbs, which are more satisfactory than the limestone rocks of
+Orme's Head, near Llandudno, or of the Eglwyseg cliffs, near Llangollen;
+but we find in =Dinas Bran=, close by, an extremely steep,
+castle-crowned hill, and much favoured by picnickers. It seems, however,
+to have been the scene of some early climbing, made too, quite properly,
+with the rope.
+
+Leland says, 'Ther bredith in the Rok Side that the Castelle stondith on
+every yere an Egle. And the Egle doth sorely assaut hym that distroith
+the Nest goyng down in one Basket and having a nother over his Hedde to
+defend the sore Stripe of the Egle.'
+
+Under such circumstances a climber ought to find St. Paul a better
+patron saint than St. Martin.
+
+
+Montgomeryshire.
+
+=Berwyn Mountains.=--The name is said to signify 'White Tops'
+(Bera-gwen). The range runs parallel to the river Dee, forming its south
+bank for many miles. It is not lofty, Moel Sych (2,716 ft.) and Cader
+Fronwen (2,573 ft.) being the highest points. The individual hills are
+not of striking form, and are really little more than high heathery
+moors, on which large numbers of grouse breed, but there are many points
+on the south-east side where small but striking rocks are found,
+chiefly about the heads of cwms hollowed out of the 'Llandeilo' and
+'Bala' strata. These cwms are occasionally visited for the sake of the
+waterfalls, two or three of which are exceedingly fine.
+
+The rocks at Llangynog would be remarkably good if they had not fallen a
+prey to the spoilers in the form of quarrymen.
+
+
+Merionethshire.
+
+    Merioneth mountains and shire Cardigan
+    To travel over will tire horse and man,
+
+says Taylor, the Water Poet, and, indeed, as a climbing county it is
+only second to Carnarvon, and contains such fine mountains as Cader
+Idris, the Arans, and the Rhinogs. The climbing capital is Dolgelly,
+though the excellent service of the Cambrian Railway makes it easy to
+scale almost any mountain from almost any place in the county. The
+reason of this is that all the places of resort are near the coast, and
+the mountains are not far inland, so that the railway following the
+coast puts them all in communication with each other, and it is almost
+equally convenient to stay at Barmouth, Harlech, Towyn, Aberdovey, or
+Machynlleth. Indeed, this is almost the only county where railways are
+cheerfully accepted by the mountaineer as friends and not as enemies. He
+does not love them at Bettws y Coed, he loathes them at Llanberis, but
+here they are unobtrusive and at the same time supremely useful.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Aberglaslyn.=--Through this beautiful defile lies the only correct
+approach to Snowdon. It is a true mountain scene, somehow suggesting
+Scotland rather than Wales, and of such beauty that, according to the
+story, three Cambridge dons, who went round Wales criticising nature and
+deducting marks for every defect, unanimously awarded full marks to
+this. There is fairly good practice climbing on both sides of it, but
+not very steep, in spite of the fears of some of the early travellers,
+who (like Hutton in 1803) thought the sides would close before they got
+through, and reached Beddgelert with a sense of relief.
+
+It was one of the earliest scenes in Wales which the taste of last
+century admitted to be picturesque. Sandby's view was taken about 120
+years ago.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cnicht= or =Cynicht= (2,265 ft.), =Moel Wyn= (2,529 ft.)--Mr. J. H.
+Cliffe ascended the former on September 4, 1857, and declared that he
+could only hear of one man who had preceded him (the climbing
+clergyman).
+
+Under certain aspects and conditions it is one of the most striking
+mountains in Wales, owing to its sharp, conical form, but it bears very
+little really good rock.
+
+Beddgelert is the best place from which to ascend, and if the old and
+higher road to Maentwrog be taken to 1/4 mile short of the tramway in
+Cwm Croesor, a ridge on the left hand can be followed right up to the
+peak without fear of mistake.
+
+If the ascent of Moel Wyn be included it adds less than an hour to the
+time taken by the last expedition. On the other hand, if Moel Wyn is
+ascended from Tanygrisiau, on the Ffestiniog line, it is equally easy to
+take in Cynicht.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Rhinog Fawr= (2,362 ft.--just north of Rhinog Fach) is one of the most
+striking of the rocky hills which rise behind Harlech. It is more
+visited than would otherwise be the case because the pretty lake of Cwm
+Bychan and the famous pass of Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, both places of
+considerable resort, lie at its feet, one on either side. It is one of
+the barest and most rocky mountains in all Wales, and yet it has hardly
+anywhere on it a crag of respectable height. Little nameless problems,
+however, abound, and men who are content to enjoy a day's promiscuous
+scrambling, without accomplishing any notorious climb about which they
+will afterwards be able to boast, may be recommended to ramble over
+Rhinog Fawr.
+
+_Easy Ascents._--Several stations on the Cambrian line are convenient
+for the start, especially Harlech and Llanbedr. Vehicles can be got in
+summer to take visitors to near Cwm Bychan (about 5 miles), from the
+east end of which to reach the top of the mountain requires a long hour,
+by way of the lakelet of Gloywlyn and up the western slope of the
+mountain. From Dolgelly the way is not so easy to find. Bwlch Drws
+Ardudwy, the pass between the two Rhinogs, is the first place to make
+for, and for this the best plan is to go by the Precipice Walk or by the
+Trawsfynydd highroad to the Camlan stream, which comes in on the left
+half a mile or more beyond Tynygroes Inn. A path follows the stream for
+nearly 3 miles to a slate quarry, which can also be reached rather more
+quickly by crossing the bridge at Penmaenpool, especially if the train
+be used as far as that station. Half a mile up the stream beyond the
+quarry the course leaves the brook and strikes away north-north-west
+round Rhinog Fach, rising as little as may be, so as to join the track
+up Bwlch Drws Ardudwy. From the head of the pass, rugged as it looks, a
+way may be picked northward to the east slope of the summit, but many
+people prefer to descend to the west a long way, so as to strike the
+easier south-western shoulder. A yet simpler route than the last, but,
+as involving 3 miles more of the hateful Trawsfynydd road, intolerable
+unless a carriage be taken, turns out of the route to the left half a
+mile beyond the ninth milestone, and makes for the north side of Rhinog
+Fawr. The path for nearly 3 miles is that which leads to Bwlch Drws
+Ardudwy, and is quitted just after passing through a wall. The stream on
+the right hand is now followed up to the pool at its head, until a turn
+to the left and south brings the pedestrian up on to the summit. This
+route may also be used from Trawsfynydd (where the Great Western have a
+station very useful for Ffestiniog on one side and Bala on the other),
+and there is no better place to start from if climbing is wanted, for of
+that there is plenty to be found in Craig Ddrwg, the ridge which
+stretches away to the north. In winter this range is very fine, but as
+stern and desolate as it is possible to imagine anything. The writer has
+reason to remember that here, in January 1895, he experienced the most
+intense cold that he has met with in Great Britain.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Arenig Fawr= (2,800 ft.) is called 'Rennig' by Daines Barrington, who,
+writing in 1771, adds that it 'is commonly considered as the fifth
+mountain of North Wales in point of height.'
+
+The ascent from Arenig station, on the Great Western Railway, between
+Bala and Ffestiniog, is very easy, as the rise is only 1,700 ft., and
+the distance about 1-3/4 mile. The usual and most expeditious way of making
+the ascent is by proceeding westward from the station for 1/4 mile to the
+farm of Milltergerrig, but for scenery and for climbing an opposite
+direction should be taken for nearly a mile, till the stream is struck
+which issues from Llyn Arenig, really a very fine tarn and backed by
+most respectable cliffs. Further south than the tarn again good rocks
+will be found. The usual, and indeed the proper, way of dealing with
+this mountain is to traverse it from north to south, ending up at
+Llanuwchllyn station, on the Great Western line from Bala to Dolgelly.
+The eastward view is extremely fine, and superior by far to that from
+many of the highest points in Wales.
+
+This was one of our earliest mountain meteorological stations, as it was
+here that the Hon. Daines Barrington conducted his experiments on
+rainfall in 1771.[18]
+
+  [18] See the _Philosophical Transactions_, p. 294, of that year.
+
+Its height, too, was measured, as Pennant (1781) tells us, by Mr.
+Meredith Hughes, a surveyor of Bala.
+
+One of the ancient Welsh writers mentions this mountain in a most
+contemptuous manner. Borrow alludes to this, and remarks that upon him,
+on the contrary, none of all the hills which he saw in Wales made a
+greater impression.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=The Arans.=--This mountain is the highest in Merionethshire, and by
+many wrongly considered the second highest in Wales. It lies between the
+Berwyns and Cader Idris.
+
+Like the latter, it is of volcanic trap rock, heavily speckled in parts
+with quartz, and exposed on the east side, where it has been subjected
+to much weathering. There is a good deal of old _debris_ from the face,
+that is now grass-covered.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The road between the Aran and the outlying hills of the Berwyn is over
+1,900 ft. high; we have, however, to descend to 860 ft. in passing from
+the Aran to Cader Idris. The main ridge runs almost exactly north and
+south for 6 miles, its west side--a large tract of marshy
+moorland--sloping down gently to the vales of Dyfrdwy (= the goddess's
+water; sometimes called the Little Dee) and Wnion, and its east side,
+irregularly escarped, falling for the most part very rapidly for the
+first thousand feet. Its ridge culminates in two peaks 1-1/2 mile apart,
+Aran Benllyn (2,902 ft.) and Aran Fawddwy (2,970 ft.) The word _Aran_
+means an 'alp,' or a 'high place;' _Mawdd_ is said to mean 'spreading,'
+and the terminations _ach_ or _wy_ mean 'water.'
+
+_Aran Benllyn_ was one of several of which the height was measured in
+Pennant's time by 'the ingenious Mr. Meredith Hughes, of Bala,' who made
+it out to be 30 yards less than Cader Idris.
+
+In April 1881 the Alpine Club had one of their informal meetings at
+Bala, and chose the east front of the Aran as their route from there to
+Dolgelly.
+
+The ordinary ascents of the Aran are effected from Llanuwchllyn in 2
+hours, from Drws y Nant in 1-1/4 hour, and from Dinas Mawddwy in about 3
+hours.
+
+_Rock Climbs._--These are never extensive, though there are many little
+pieces that require much ingenuity to surmount. Excepting for a few
+boulder climbs on the ridge itself the crag work is confined to the east
+face of the mountains, the side overlooking Lliwbran and Craiglyn Dyfi.
+Climbers are often asked, where can a man start practising rock work?
+The Arans are first-rate for this. Whatever the difficulty on the
+mountain a few minutes' traversing will generally take one out of it, if
+direct ascent or descent be considered undesirable. The mountain face is
+so broken up that we have no gullies or aretes separated by impossible
+walls of rock from the easy parts of the mountain. In short, from the
+enthusiastic shin-scraper's point of view the architecture of the Aran
+face is defective.
+
+(_a_) _From Lliwbran._--The rocks rising from Lliwbran are columnar in
+structure, and by the time a generation of climbers have torn away the
+grass from the holds they will show up plenty of neat little problems
+from 50 to 100 ft. high.
+
+Looking up from the lake the crag, which is a high dependence of Aran
+Benllyn, shows on the right an almost unrelieved slabbiness at an easy
+angle, which gives good practice in small footholds. Up to the centre of
+the crag is a steep grass gully, in a line with a large boulder down
+near the lake, with an overhanging wall that blocks the direct ascent of
+the gully, and with a fine clean-cut buttress on the left. We may creep
+up the corner of the wall on the left, or circumvent it by traversing
+round to the right.
+
+The route to the ridge from the big boulder is easiest up an oblique
+gully just invisible from it. Between our crag and the summit of the
+Benllyn is an easy walk due east down to the green shoulder south of
+Lliwbran, that takes us quickly by Nant y Barcud and Cwm Croes to the
+Twrch valley and the main road. This descent to Llannwchllyn, though not
+direct, recommends itself in wet or misty weather, and is in any case
+worth taking as a variant. Aran Benllyn itself offers nothing on its
+broken escarpments; though the face shows up rather well in profile from
+a distance, the climber need scarcely use his hands in zigzagging up the
+face to the cairn. The view from the summit justifies our traversing the
+peak on the way to Aran Fawddwy. It includes the length of Bala lake and
+a goodly extent of Llyn Fyrnwy, and the outline of Aran Fawddwy shows up
+magnificently.
+
+Passing along the ridge to the south of Benllyn we keep up at a high
+level for the whole distance of 1-1/2 mile to Aran Fawddwy, the greatest
+depression being less than 250 ft. below Benllyn. If we bear to the
+left, just dipping below the ridge, we pass along the foot of an
+overhanging mass of rock of considerable length that is undercut in a
+remarkable fashion. There are many places along it where one may shelter
+comfortably in bad weather. It is difficult to climb up the rock direct,
+but towards its south extremity we may work up into a small cave and
+climb out by the left on to the ridge again.
+
+Five minutes then bring us to a fine cairn that marks an easy descent to
+Craiglyn Dyfi, the source of the Dyfi river, with a good view of the
+best rocks on Aran Fawddwy. The final ascent of this peak begins after a
+few feet of descent to a wall that crosses the ridge at its lowest.
+
+(_b_) _On Craiglyn Dyfi._--A small terrace at about the level of the
+wall just referred to leads round the rocks to the left into a large
+scree gully, which offers good sport in snowy weather. Half-way along
+this terrace is a 'problem' of unusual severity--a narrow crack in an
+overhanging face, with very scanty hand-holds where the crack closes,
+some 20 ft. up the face. The pleasantest bit of scrambling is on to the
+summit of Aran Fawddwy from the lake, by the arete that is seen in
+outline from the large cairn on the ridge, from which point the two
+vertical portions of the arete are well marked. It can be reached easily
+from the lake, or we may descend from the cairn for some 600 ft., and
+then traverse across to the south till a small gully is passed that
+shows a cave pitch at its lower extremity. The rock arete forms the
+south side of this gully and runs up for 400 ft. It reminds us of the
+easy climb up Tryfaen from the Glyder side, though in one or two places
+we have difficulties here, whereas there are none on the Tryfaen
+scramble.
+
+It begins below the level of the cave, and after passing over rough
+rocks at an easy angle we come to a fine wall with a wide crack up it on
+the left. A huge splintered block is fixed in the lower part of the
+crack, and we may surmount the block and just squeeze in, passing out on
+to the roof. There are one or two variations possible here. In fact,
+instead of starting on the arete we might pass up the gully to the cave.
+It has mossy walls and a dripping interior. It is marked by a small pile
+of stones on the right and a well-bleached sheep's skeleton in the gully
+just above. The pitch may be taken on the left by steep wet grass, which
+is unpleasant, or we can attack it direct. We go well inside, and with
+back to the right we find good holds on the left, thus working up until
+the roof itself offers hold for both hands. From here it is best to pass
+on to the arete a few feet below the crack above described.
+
+The way is then easy, but interesting, and leads to a straight-up crack
+in a wall in front of us that has to be negotiated. It looks severe, but
+the surface of the rock is so rough that no real trouble is experienced
+with it. The crack is much more formidable to descend. Shortly after
+this we find ourselves out on the open face again, the gully on the left
+having disappeared, and only a few crags above us marking the summit of
+the mountain. Striking directly upwards we reach the top in a quarter of
+an hour, the last 25 ft. being, if we choose, by way of a chimney, that
+begins with some difficulty and lands us just to the left of the large
+cairn that marks the highest point.
+
+(_c_) _By Llaithnant._--Passing due south of the Aran Fawddwy cairn,
+along the route to Dinas, we see a fine rock in front between us and the
+near end of the Dyrysgol ridge, forming the head of Llaithnant. It is
+marked by an overhanging rock half-way down the left-hand ridge. A steep
+and wet scree gully leads down to the valley, and we may go part of the
+way down until we are about 100 ft. below the overhanging block.
+
+Here we can strike across to the arete, and keeping close to the gully
+on our right have 250 ft. of fairly good scrambling. We skirt close
+under the big boulder, and passing to the right of it (a traverse can
+also be managed on the left, lower down) clamber over rather loose rock
+to the grass terrace above the pitch. Then good rock follows, and
+bearing towards the right we come in sight of a square-walled chimney
+overlooking the main gully, marked by small cairns at top and bottom.
+Its holds are all on the left, so we back up on the right and find
+ourselves close to the main ridge again. Another chimney still further
+to the right might be taken, but it is always very wet; the two pitches
+in it are both very small, and it is only interesting when ice is about.
+
+A grass gully separates our arete from a few rocks nearer Dyrysgol,
+which are of basaltic character and rather interesting to descend.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cader Idris.=--The name ('Chair of Idris') includes the whole mountain
+range, some 7 miles long, that separates the Mawddach from the Dysynni.
+It is a continuation of the outcrop of volcanic trap rock that stretches
+from the Arans down to Cardigan Bay, and, as usual with such mountains,
+its volcanic origin has had much to do with its grand scenery.
+
+The range runs in an E.N.E. direction from the sea south of Barmouth,
+and reaches its greatest elevation at Pen y Gader (2,929 ft.) It forms
+two other noteworthy peaks on the chain, Tyrran Mawr (2,600 ft.), 2
+miles to the south-west, and Mynydd Moel (2,800 ft.), 1-1/2 mile to the
+north-east.
+
+The north side presents a fairly even front of precipitous rock for 3-1/2
+miles. Near the highest point, however, a huge amphitheatre of rock, a
+thousand feet in height, suggesting a volcanic crater half fallen away,
+breaks the continuity of the ridge, and contributes the finest bit of
+mountain scenery that this side of Cader can offer. Probably this hollow
+suggested first the name of 'Cader,' though there is a recess on the
+summit ridge that is usually taken to be the seat in question.
+
+But the mountain can show something even better on the south side. Its
+high dependency Mynydd Pencoed joins the main ridge almost at the summit
+of Pen y Gader, and its extremity Craig y Cae forms with Cader itself
+another crater-like hollow, which, with Llyn y Cae lying at the foot of
+the crags, is even wilder and more magnificent than the one on the north
+side. Excepting the crags in this cwm the south side of Cader consists
+of steep grass slopes, and the general aspect of the mountain is
+uninteresting.
+
+An account is published in the _Gentleman's Magazine_ (vol. xxxviii. p.
+147) of an ascent of the mountain in 1767 by L. N.
+
+Cader Idris was also climbed in 1863 by Prince Arthur.
+
+Several members of the Alpine Club worked their way up the direct route
+from Llyn y Gader in 1881, and there is some mention in the _Alpine
+Journal_ (vol. xii.) of a few ascents by Mr. H. Willink.
+
+The gullies along the north face of the mountain were explored for many
+years by F. H. B.
+
+The wandering Borrow wordily describes a night adventure on Cader Idris.
+A pleasantly-written chapter on it may be found in Paterson's
+_Mountaineering Below the Snow Line_, and just recently an article has
+appeared on the same subject in the _Scottish Mountaineering Journal_.
+This latter article has a good general view of the whole length of the
+north face.
+
+On the north face, between Pen y Gader and Cyfrwy, a tailor named
+Smith, of Newport, met his death by a fall from the crags in 1864. His
+body was not found until the following spring.
+
+There is another Pen y Gader in South Wales, the highest point in the
+Black Forest of Carmarthen (2,630 ft.); also between Y Foel Fras and the
+Conway River a hill goes by the same name.
+
+The ordinary excursions up the mountain are made from Dolgelly, by the
+Foxes' Path, in 2-1/4 hours; by the Bridle Path, in 2-3/4 hours, or by Mynydd
+Moel in 3 hours; from Arthog, easily reached by train from Barmouth, in
+3 hours; from Tal y Llyn in 2 hours; and from Towyn in 4 hours.
+
+The walk up from Towyn is by the Dysynni valley and the _Bird Rock_.
+This has a very bold and steep front, broken up by narrow ledges. It can
+be ascended with different degrees of ease, and is worth climbing for
+the view. The rock is named from its usual frequenters, the kite, hawk,
+and cormorant showing up in large numbers on the face.
+
+_Rock Climbs._--(_a_) _On Mynydd Moel._--These are all fairly easy in
+dry weather, and are worth exploring on a slack day. Standing at the
+eastern corner of the little square Llyn Aran, we notice the highest
+point of Mynydd Moel to the west. A fine-looking arete leads up to it
+from the north, with a well-marked pinnacle apparently half-way up the
+climb. This we shall call the north ridge. A prominent pillar of unusual
+steepness is seen to our left, reaching to the height of the Ceu Graig
+ridge. Its eastern side is cut into by a narrow gully that seems from
+below to pass behind the pillar.
+
+To the right of the Ceu Graig pillar is seen another gully, looking
+steep but grassy; it is found to offer a pleasant route on to the ridge.
+Above the upper screes at the foot of the higher crags several ascents
+may be planned from below. The best is marked by two oblique chimneys
+that start upwards to the left. Between this and the north ridge a large
+scree gully leads up to the highest part of the mountain, and from it on
+the right several short scrambles on good slabby rocks are obtainable.
+
+[Illustration: CRAIG ADERYN (BIRD ROCK)]
+
+The first of the Ceu Graig gullies, counting from left to right, is to
+the left of the pillar, and takes three-quarters of an hour to ascend
+from the lake. It starts with a water slide that we take on the right,
+and we pass back into the gully immediately afterwards. Then the ascent
+of an easy chimney makes us a little wet if the weather has been rainy,
+and a pitch appears just above. This can be taken on the right or left.
+The right-hand route gives us wet rocks; the left leads up a side
+chimney, and back into the gully by an awkward grass traverse. After
+this the gully divides, and leads us to the neck that joins on to the
+pillar on our right.
+
+The steep outside face of the pillar can be ascended, but is rather
+dangerous. It is a sample of mantelpiece climbing, but the holds are
+mostly of grass and heather, and some of the steps are long.
+
+The next gully, a short distance to the right of the pillar, is more
+open than the first, and is less steep. Some water is generally coming
+down. The first obstacle is a wide cavern, that can be mounted
+immediately to the left or avoided by passing up the easy open chimney
+on that side of the gully. The second is a waterfall, and that also is
+by preference passed on the left; the difficulty finishes with a short
+corkscrew chimney. From this we emerge on to the open face of the
+mountain, and a few feet of good rock bring us to the main ridge. We are
+now at about the level of the upper limit of scree on the Mynydd Moel
+face, and a traverse can be effected round to the oblique chimney
+already referred to. In doing so we pass first a scree gully and then an
+inviting cleft up to the left, but this is found to lose its interest
+after the first 20 ft.
+
+The oblique chimneys can be recommended for beginners, as the climbing
+is only about 250 ft.; the rocks are very good, and the angle about 45 deg.
+Water comes down the gully, but does not offer any trouble, except,
+perhaps, at the first obstacle. If this is taken direct we climb up the
+right wall, which overhangs, and cling sufficiently close to permit the
+water to pass behind us. The second pitch is taken on the right, the
+rock being so much undercut that we can pass behind the water. After
+this a little more scrambling leads to a scree and an easy finish.
+
+[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF
+
+CADER IDRIS]
+
+The north ridge is somewhat disappointing. It works well up to the
+pinnacle, which may also be approached by a dilapidated chimney on the
+left. But just above this, where another ridge joins from the
+north-west, it becomes a mere walk along the edge of a cliff.
+
+Perhaps the neatest way of descending this cliff is by a very narrow
+vertical chimney, marked at top and bottom by small piles of stones, a
+little to the north of the big scree gully, and close to the highest
+point of Mynydd Moel.
+
+(_b_) _West of Mynydd Moel._--Here the north cliff is very much broken.
+There are innumerable scree gullies up the face, but the rock ridges in
+between them have no good features. There are one or two pinnacles just
+below the ridge, easy to reach from above, but difficult from below. One
+especially is worth a scramble, about 5 minutes' walk from Mynydd Moel;
+a thin and uncommonly difficult chimney leads up its outside face.
+
+(_c_) _On Pen y Gader._--The central gully up Pen y Gader is a prominent
+feature of this face of the mountain. It was climbed many years ago, but
+no definite account of its early history has been obtained. It is in
+three obvious portions, as indicated in the illustration, and is
+generally wet. The two shelves that divide the climb stretch obliquely
+upwards to the right across the whole face, and may be reached in a
+great variety of ways. Nevertheless the only good climbing is in the two
+lower portions of the main gully.
+
+The first piece takes us on to the shelf with about 70 ft. of climbing.
+The gully narrows considerably, and we are forced on to the right-hand
+side and up a steep and smooth slope of water-worn rock. Then we cross
+over the water to the left, and effect an easy exit on to the ledge. We
+next scramble over some irregular blocks and into a narrow recess at the
+foot of the second pitch. This is a narrow chimney, very pleasant in dry
+weather, landing us in 50 ft. on to the second ledge. From here the
+ground is more open, and the climbing is of a slight character to the
+summit, except in winter, when the whole gully is apt to be heavily
+glazed. Under such circumstances the lowest pitch is almost dangerous.
+
+The first pitch may be varied by striking up from the screes a few yards
+to the left of the main gully, by the cleft shown in the illustration.
+The second can be quitted altogether, and the columnar rocks to the west
+taken in a variety of ways; and all along the upper corridor will be
+found short pitches leading to the summit ridge.
+
+(_d_) _On Cyfrwy._--There are two well-defined aretes leading up close
+to the summit of Cyfrwy. The first _a a_ is in an easterly direction,
+and may be seen in profile from the direction of Pen y Gader. This is
+easily recognisable by the curious truncated pinnacle or tower some way
+up. The second bears up from the north, and also shows a pinnacle, but
+of smaller dimensions. Beyond the two aretes the climbing on Cyfrwy is
+inferior, but between them there are a few interesting routes up the
+crags.
+
+[Illustration: CADER IDRIS
+
+(seen across Llyn y Gader)]
+
+The terrace _e e_ is easily reached from the screes. From it there are
+two definite climbs, one _b b_ up a gully to the left, that leads out
+on to the east arete, the other _c c_ up a more open gully that passes
+to the summit ridge. It is possible that the notch between the great
+tower and the east arete can be reached from this side, but the upper
+part looks difficult.
+
+The east arete was climbed in about 1888 by the writer. The first
+recorded ascent was in January 1891 (H. K., W. E. S., and O. G. J.), and
+the first ascent by a lady in August 1891 (Miss L. G., K. W. D., and O.
+G. J.)
+
+[Illustration: THE CYFRWY CLIMBS, FROM THE NORTH.]
+
+It can be followed all the way up. The tower is best turned on the
+right, and the vertical wall of 40 ft. that immediately follows is
+climbed direct from the little gap, with just a slight divergence to the
+left. The only serious difficulty on the arete is a wall of rock 100 ft.
+higher up. It can be surmounted by a thin cleft, the jammed stones in
+which are unsafe; or by working up the face a little to the left. The
+situation is very exposed. This, and any other bad bits, can generally
+be avoided by climbing down to the scree gully on our left. Near the top
+of the arete we pass the exit of the chimney _b b_, which descends
+steeply to the right.
+
+[Illustration: CYFRWY ARETES
+
+(The northern is seen in profile, the eastern is much foreshortened)]
+
+The north arete has probably not been climbed, but the gullies on each
+side have been taken. They call for no special comment. The one to the
+right is worth ascending for the view of the fine rocks on this face. It
+is mostly scree with a small pitch near the top, and was once marked
+above by a little cairn. It is admirable when hard snow is about.
+
+The gully _c c_ to the left is very open and risky, consisting of a
+series of shelves formed by the falling away of the porphyritic pillars
+that characterise the face.
+
+The climb _b b_ is rather better. The scrambling from the terrace is
+easy but steep, until a large overhanging boulder entirely blocks the
+way. We then climb up the vertical wall on the left and traverse back to
+the gully. It finishes very abruptly on the narrow upper ridge of the
+east arete, and in a most unexpected way we find ourselves looking down
+to Llyn y Gader with the face of Pen y Gader directly opposite.
+
+There are a few short climbs on the face of Tyrrau Mawr, but nothing
+very definite can be picked out.
+
+(_e_) _On Craig y Cae._--The great gully of Mynydd Pencoed was climbed
+for the first time on May 18, 1895 (W. P. H. S., E. L. W. H. S., and O.
+G. J.) It is by far the finest climb in the Cader district; the work in
+it is as varied as in any of the more familiar gullies in the
+neighbourhood of Snowdon, and the rock scenery in its upper portion can
+scarcely be surpassed on British soil. The upper part of the gully
+attracted the attention of the writer in 1890, but it was not until
+April 1895 that he made any attempt to enter the gully at its lower
+extremity. Then he succeeded in forcing his way over the first pitch,
+but the great rush of water coming down the gully made the second pitch
+impossible, and the untimely fracture of an ice axe prompted a temporary
+withdrawal.
+
+On the day when the successful attempt was made the rocks were unusually
+dry. In wet weather the difficulties of the climb are likely to be very
+much increased, more especially in the narrower pitches, where the route
+chosen by the climber is identical in position with that chosen by the
+water, though opposite in direction so long as valour needs diluting
+down to discretion. It seems probable that grass traverses may be found
+to circumvent the lower pitches. The first and second, for example, may
+be avoided by traversing into the gully from the left, over the grassy
+buttress that supports the Pencoed Pillar. The third pitch may be passed
+immediately on the left, if one treats the loose soil with due
+consideration. The fourth and fifth seem from above to permit an
+alternative route up to the right, over steep grass and back to the
+gully by a treacherous-looking upward traverse to the left. From here
+the three remaining pitches directly up the gully offer the simplest
+solution to the rest of the problem; variations to the left and right
+have been freely suggested, but are still untested.
+
+[Illustration: LLYN Y CAE (OR CAU) AND CRAIG Y CAE (FROM CADER IDRIS)]
+
+The climbing starts within 200 ft. of the level of Llyn y Cae, with a
+short pitch some 12 ft. high, marked above by a cairn of stones. The
+second pitch begins almost immediately, and must be taken direct, the
+roof of the cave in its upper portion to be approached by a serpentine
+squirm of the body after the cave is entered, up the thin crack on the
+right. The third pitch is ferocious in aspect, but uncertain in action,
+on account of the poor quality of its material. It consists of a large
+cavern with a pendulous mass of brittle rock hanging down from the roof
+somewhat to the left. The cavern is penetrated as far as possible on
+this side, and then, with back to the hanging rock and feet on a hold
+invisible from below, a passage may be effected outwards to the firm
+hand-holds in the open. A jammed stone with debris attached, in the most
+handy situation at the corner of the exit, is best left alone.
+
+Soon after this we approach a long narrow chimney close to the left wall
+of the gully. It is about 35 ft. in length, and the upper part gives
+trouble. But a very fine foothold some 12 ft. up gives breathing space
+for the final portion. Then the interest ceases for a while, as we mount
+some 130 ft. of scree and smooth rocky slabs at an easy angle. This is
+an excellent arrangement, for the fifth pitch, that now comes on, is
+likely to demand all our powers of admiration for a while.
+
+It consists of a cavern divided by two steep buttresses into three
+parts, side by side, the middle one being most open to inspection but
+most difficult to approach directly. Immediately above the left-hand
+portion a vertical chimney rises some 40 ft., its lower end projecting
+well over the cave and manifesting no direct route of approach from
+below. To get to the foot of this chimney is the chief difficulty. The
+method adopted was rather intricate, and probably permitted much
+improvement. It has, however, the advantage that the leader need not
+climb straight away the full 80 or 90 ft. without a halt. He first
+penetrates as far as possible into the cave on the left, until the roof
+bars further progress. Then he traverses over a dangerously smooth and
+wet slab, with no perceptible foothold, to the middle portion of the
+cavern. From here he works upwards and outwards until with a long stride
+he steps out on to a little ledge on the right wall of the gully. Here a
+hole through a large block enables him to manipulate the rope with
+safety, and the second man can join him. The second may reach the
+terrace more directly, if the rope is available, by working directly up
+the middle of the gully till the level of the ledge is reached; but the
+climbing is very uncertain, on account of the treacherous footholds.
+From the ledge the leader passes back across the centre and over a
+notched curtain of rock into the upper chimney. Here there is no doubt
+as to the route; a resting-place is afforded for a moment by a little
+cave, through the roof of which only the thinnest can hope to wriggle.
+The edge of this roof is mounted on the right, and a few feet higher a
+jammed block that dominates the pitch is turned on the right, up some
+rather treacherous grass that needs very careful treatment. The writer
+would like to add a word of advice to this already lengthy description
+of the pitch. Don't attempt to qualify for the through route of the
+little cave by slipping downwards and jamming in the chimney.
+
+The three remaining pitches are short and near together, the last one
+finishing a few feet below the summit of the ridge, some 850 ft. above
+the lake.
+
+_East Gully._--The gully immediately to the east of the Pencoed Pillar
+was first climbed on May 19, 1895 (W. P. H. S., W. E. S., and O. G. J.)
+As seen from the opposite shores of the lake it presents a striking
+appearance, the middle part looking very difficult. It starts higher up
+the face than the western climb (about 440 ft. above the lake), and
+finishes on the ridge at a somewhat lower level than the top of the
+latter (870 ft. above lake). Thus the climbing is much reduced, and the
+whole ascent can be accomplished in an hour by a party of three. The
+scrambling in it is almost continuous, and towards the middle, where the
+rock walls close in the gully, the route is very steep, though none of
+the pitches are severe.
+
+We begin with oblique slabs of rock rather inclined to be wet. Then the
+direct route lies over a block of rock with uncertain holds, but a cleft
+to the left promises much better, and a traverse at the top leads back
+easily to the gully again. The scrambling is very pleasant where the
+right wall begins to overhang, and remains interesting till the gully
+divides. From here screes lead up each part to the crest of the ridge,
+but a small rock arete separating the two branches give us climbing all
+the way.
+
+Still more to the east is a shorter gully, composed for the most part of
+scree, that can be taken in 20 minutes. It has two pitches, the upper
+one requiring a rope. The first is taken up on either side, and is only
+about 12 ft. high. The second is a cave pitch with a very fine interior.
+The ascent is effected by backing up the rather loose walls of the cave,
+and then bearing out to the left and over the obstacle. From here to the
+summit is nothing but scree. The gully is afflicted with the near
+neighbourhood of badly weathered rocks, and shows signs of having been
+quite recently bombarded from the crags on the left.
+
+These three gullies on Mynydd Pencoed represent all the climbing that
+has as yet been attempted on the south side of Cader. It is much to be
+hoped that a few interesting routes will yet be found between the pillar
+and the small col that represents the lowest portion of Craig y Cau, and
+the account of what has been done may induce others to visit this
+unfrequented region. To the same end it might be advisable to throw out
+the remark that the Pencoed Pillar, some 700 ft. high, looks quite
+inaccessible from the grassy buttress at its foot.
+
+
+South Wales.
+
+It is scarcely worth while to enumerate the southern counties, as all
+alike are destitute of climbs, except upon the sea cliffs. Some of these
+are remarkably bold and picturesque, especially about Lydstep (Tenby)
+and St. David's Head; but they cannot compare in any way with those of
+Ireland, and least of all for climbing purposes, being mainly of
+limestone. Just north of Aberystwith are some highly curious rocks,
+giving a climb or two. Some twenty years ago a schoolboy was killed by
+falling from them.
+
+Of the inland rocks it will be sufficient to mention a few.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: CLIFFS NEAR LYDSTEP (TENBY)]
+
+=The Brecon Beacons= (2,910 ft.), in Brecknockshire (which name the
+travellers of old, with some justice, modified to 'Breakneckshire'), are
+sandstone peaks of very striking outline. Indeed, Mackintosh (who saw
+them from the east) says, 'I was more impressed than I have been with
+any mountain in Wales. Their outline excited a very unusual idea of
+sublimity.'
+
+Brecon is the best starting-point, and it is a good plan, though by no
+means necessary, to drive to the Storey Arms inn (1,400 ft.), eight
+miles towards Merthyr, or to go by train to Torpantau, and thus avoid
+walking over any part of the way twice.
+
+[Illustration: CLIFFS NORTH OF ABERYSTWITH]
+
+The way is easy, and easily found; but a wary eye should be kept upon
+the streams, which in this part of Wales are surprisingly rapid and
+copious.
+
+A curious notion once prevailed that nothing would fall from the top of
+this hill. Many years ago an unfortunate picnicker disproved this. See
+the _Times Index_, but the statement there made that he fell 12,000 ft.
+is somewhat startling.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=The Black Mountains=, a wide stretch of charming hill-walking, have
+little to attract the mere climber, nor will he find much on such hills
+as the bastion-like =Blorenge= (1,720 ft.), in spite of their possessing
+caps of 'mill-stone grit.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Plynlimon= (2,469 ft.) is seldom mentioned except with derision.
+
+_The Beauties of Wales_ (1818) does indeed speak of 'the towering summit
+which bears the name of Plinlimmon,' and quotes the equally appropriate
+description given by Philips--
+
+                  That cloud-piercing hill
+    Plinlimmon from afar the traveller kens,
+    Astonished how the goats their shrubby browse
+    Gnaw pendent.
+
+But, in truth, the great difficulty which travellers have, whether far
+or near, is to ken it at all; and many of them have vented their
+disappointment in words of bitter scorn.
+
+Pennant (1770) candidly admits that he never saw it, which is easily
+understood, for the mountain is neither easy to see nor worth looking at
+when seen. The ascent is a protracted bog-walk. It was made in 1767[19]
+by L. N., but Taylor, the Water Poet (1652), sensibly calls it
+
+                          Tall Plinillimon,
+    Which I no stomach had to tread upon.
+
+  [19] _Gentleman's Magazine_, 1768.
+
+An amusing notice used to be seen at Steddfa Gurig (then an inn), 2-1/2
+miles south of the summit, and 13-1/4 miles by road from Llanidloes:
+'The notorious hill Plinlimon is on the premises.' This place, being
+1,358 ft. above the sea, is the best starting-point for the ascent of
+the mountain, and coaches run past it from Llanidloes.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Aberedw Rocks= are fairly typical of the kind of climbing which is to
+be found in South Wales. The rocks being quite close to the station of
+that name on the Cambrian Railway, are brought within easy reach of
+Rhayader and Builth Wells on the north and of Brecon on the south. Three
+or four rock terraces, 15 to 20 ft. high, break the slope of the hill
+beside the railway, and a sort of rocky cove penetrates it as well. Bits
+here and there are not unlike the 'chimneys' on Slieve League, but the
+material is more friable, resembling loose walls of very inferior slaty
+fragments. A few harder masses stand out picturesquely as small
+pinnacles, especially in the cove, near the head of which a lofty
+bulging piece of rock has a vertical rift in it, which for a few feet
+offers quite a difficult climb.
+
+The river =Edw= (close by) has extremely steep, cliff-like banks, and
+these are a common feature in other tributaries of the Wye. The
+=Bachwy=, for instance, has a gorge which, seen as the writer has seen
+it during a winter flood, is profoundly impressive. Malkin's description
+(1804) should not be missed. He found 'rudely-shaped eccentricities of
+nature, with all the mysterious gloom of vulgar and traditional
+ascription,' 'dwarfishly fructified rock,' 'features all of a revolting
+cast,' and 'a prospect rude and unchastised.'
+
+The =Irvon=, again, has sides so rocky as to be chosen by the falcon for
+nesting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Cwm Elan=, 5 or 6 miles from Rhyader, is a very pretty spot, and the
+gorge of Cefn Coch is exceedingly striking. Mackintosh says that the
+height is not less than 800 ft., and the cliffs are in many parts mural
+and quite perpendicular. He declared that, while the cliffs on the
+left-hand side of the river are very fine, he had seen nothing to
+surpass those on the right. This from a hill traveller of his experience
+is remarkably high praise. The writer has only visited these rocks once,
+and has never attempted to climb there, nor, indeed, has he ever heard
+of anyone else doing so. The Birmingham reservoir is to submerge several
+miles of this cwm and the two houses in which Shelley stayed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Stanner Rocks= are quite near the station of the same name on the
+branch of the Great Western from Leominster to New Radnor, and on the
+north side of the railway. The material of which they are composed is
+superior for climbing purposes to the soft shaly stuff so common in
+South Wales, being the same eruptive trap rock which forms the hills of
+Hunter, Worsel, and Old Radnor, and has metamorphosed the surrounding
+limestone. These rocks narrowly miss being a good climb. The train from
+Leominster takes about 50 minutes.
+
+Near New Radnor is a precipice down which Cliffe (1854) mentions that a
+gentleman rode, and he also records that another climbed the fall called
+_Waterbreakitsneck_.
+
+
+
+
+IRELAND
+
+
+=Introduction.=--Climbing in Ireland, in the sense in which it is
+understood in Switzerland, is, of course, unknown, although during a
+winter of happily rare occurrence, such as that of 1894-5, abundant snow
+and ice-slope work is no doubt obtainable. It would be accompanied,
+however, by extreme cold and days of too short a duration for work.
+
+Nor can Ireland boast of such arenas for cliff-climbing as the Lake
+District, or the Cuchullins in Skye. There is no Pillar Rock, no Old Man
+of Dearg. But there are ample opportunities for acquiring the art of
+mountain craft, the instinct which enables the pedestrian to guide
+himself alone from crest to crest, from ridge to ridge, with the least
+labour. He will learn how to plan out his course from the base of cliff
+or gully, marking each foot and hand grip with calm attention; and,
+knowing when to cease to attempt impossibilities, he will learn to trust
+in himself and acquire that most necessary of all climbers' acquirements
+a philosophic, contemplative calm in the presence of danger or difficult
+dilemmas. If the beginner is desirous of rock practice, or the practised
+hand requires to test his condition, or improve his form, there is many
+a rocky coast where the muscles and nerves and stamina can be trained to
+perfection. Kerry and Donegal are competent to form a skilled
+mountaineer out of any capable aspirant. Ice and snow craft is an
+accomplishment which must of course be acquired elsewhere.
+
+Much of the best scenery in Ireland is available only to the
+mountaineer. Macgillicuddy's Reeks can hardly be appreciated in less
+than a week's exploration. Even after three weeks spent amongst them we
+have wished for more. Donegal alone requires lengthened attention, and
+there a much longer period will be profitably spent.
+
+The climbing described in the following pages was chiefly undertaken
+with the object, or excuse, of botanical discovery. All the mountain
+experiences, except where the contrary is stated, represent the
+personal--usually the solitary--experiences of the writer. Of roped
+climbing the author has had no experience outside the Alps. Being tied
+up in a package and lowered from a cliff to a bird's nest, though not
+climbing, is, no doubt, a feat requiring nerve and dexterity; but when
+the nest of the raven, peregrine, or chough is in view, and ropes and
+companions are 'out of all ho,' and it appears improbable such a chance
+will come again, the eager naturalist will indeed rejoice that his nerve
+and dexterity are not wholly dependent on the comfortable security of a
+friendly cable round his waist. To the botanist such accomplishments are
+even more essential. A knowledge of rocks--what to trust, what to
+mistrust, what to attack vertically (such as granite and quartzose
+usually), what to deal with by their ledges (such as limestone often and
+sandstone still oftener), what to avoid altogether (such as trap, chalk,
+and decomposing basalt), a knowledge of the elementary principles of
+guidance under varying conditions of weather--can be gleaned from the
+mountain and sea coast cliffs in Ireland, not, perhaps, to such an
+extent as to produce an expert, but quite enough to lay the requisite
+groundwork of one. Form and condition, nerve and activity, will develop
+in company, and with them the love for the art will grow, and nothing
+beyond a little local education will be wanting to enable him to follow
+upon their arduous undertakings real proficients in mountain craft. Any
+words that can induce the skilled mountaineers of England and Scotland
+to test the merits of an Irish welcome, of Irish scenery, and of the
+bracing combination of Atlantic and mountain air in the western counties
+will have been written to good purpose.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Antrim.=--The highest hills are Trostan (1,810 ft.) and Slieveanea
+(1,782 ft.) The formation is almost entirely trap or basalt, and there
+is no cliff-climbing, the rock being crumbly and unsafe. Around the
+coast there is a belt of cretaceous rocks, forming in some places, as at
+the Giant's Causeway (White Rocks) and at Fair Head, bold cliffs of
+chalk or rotten trap. On Fair Head, 640 ft. high, there is a magnificent
+view. Cyclopean columns of greenstone crown a talus always heavy on the
+Antrim cliffs, owing to their friable nature.
+
+There is a fissure known as the Grey Man's Path on the west side of this
+Head, in the face of the cliff, by which it is possible to descend and
+inspect the foot of the columnar prisms.
+
+[Illustration: THE TARTAR ROCK
+
+(on Fair Head)]
+
+The Antrim glens and the Antrim coast road are deservedly famous for
+their lovely scenery, and excellent accommodation is everywhere
+obtainable. Of the glens _Glenariff_ is, perhaps, the gem. It is hemmed
+in by cliffs 1,000 ft. high, with mural summits. Glenarm is equally
+beautiful, though in a more tranquil and gentle way. On the north and
+south sides of the Bay there are considerable precipices.
+
+From Fair Head the prospect is singularly fine. The Head is columnar
+basalt.
+
+Fair Head is approached from Ballycastle on the west. West of
+Ballycastle again, about the same distance, is the well-known rocky
+islet of Carrig-a-Rede, which is severed from the mainland by a chasm
+nearly a hundred feet deep, spanned by a very slight swinging or flying
+bridge, which in a storm is not inviting.
+
+On this basaltic islet an interesting climb round the cliffs may be had,
+and the rock is secure enough on the west and north sides.
+
+From Ballintoy, which is close to Carrig-a-Rede, it is a magnificent
+cliff walk to the Causeway; and from the Causeway to Portrush the rocky
+coast scenery is full of interest. Many places will invite a scramble.
+Below the road, which is adorned with an electric railway, numerous
+difficult places occur, and several little valleys permit a descent to
+the sea and a swim. A few miles west of the Causeway the coast becomes
+low to Portrush, the golfing centre, with its excellent hotel.
+
+At Portrush, or near it, at White Park Bay, the white cretaceous rocks
+are capped by frowning basalt, and the contrast of colours is most
+striking. It is not necessary to describe the well-known _Giant's
+Causeway_. _Pleaskin Head_ is the finest feature in its cliff scenery,
+but unfit for climbing, owing to the crumbling, weathering nature of its
+beds of lava and iron ore. More fine sea cliffs are found in the
+Gobbins, on Island Magee.
+
+Antrim, with all its lovely cliff and glen scenery, and all its good
+hotels, is not a mountaineer's county, like Kerry, Donegal, or Wicklow.
+It is more highly cultivated and more civilised than a climber with a
+proper sense of his calling could possibly approve of. It suggests
+driving, bicycling, picnics, good dinners, and evening dress more than
+knickers and hard work.
+
+We will turn our attention, therefore, to _the_ mountain county of
+Ireland.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Donegal= has some of the highest and finest mountains in Ireland, and
+the extent of mountainous country is larger than in any other part of
+Ireland. No maritime mountain and cliff combined can approach Slieve
+League, in Donegal, and if the coast cliffs of Mayo have a continuous
+grandeur that excels any similar stretch in Donegal, there are many
+higher and finer cliffs on the Donegal coast, in endless succession and
+variety from Inishowen Head, on Lough Swilly, to the south-west coast.
+
+The Donegal mountains form four groups--(1) _Inishowen Mountains_; (2)
+_Donegal Highlands_; (3) _South-West Donegal_; (4) _South Donegal_.
+
+_Inishowen Group._--_Slieve Snacht_, the highest point, has no
+interest, except its view, and the same remark applies to _Rachtin
+More_, the next highest. Both are composed of barren quartzite. _Bulbin_
+has a schistose escarpment looking north-west, of some 300 ft., reaching
+almost to the summit, and terminating in a short talus and a
+heather-clad slope. It is a very picturesque little mountain, and
+possesses some interesting plants.
+
+Inishowen is deficient in accommodation. North of Buncrana there are but
+one or two inns that will tempt a visitor to return. Accommodation can
+be obtained at Carndonagh and Culdaff, and at Malin Head there is a
+house that receives visitors by arrangement.
+
+Malin Head is the proper place from whence to explore the cliffs of
+Inishowen, and Glennagiveny, under Inishowen Head, to its north,
+contains lodging-houses also.
+
+The coast line of Inishowen is in many parts wild and magnificent.
+Inishowen Head affords excellent climbing. The cliffs are from 300 to
+400 ft. in height, and various traverses, ascents, and descents can be
+made between Stroove and Glennagiveny. The Head is in reach of Moville,
+where there is a good inn.
+
+Further to the north-west the cliffs increase in height. From Glengad
+Head, a little north-west of Culdaff, to Stookaruddan a series of
+precipitous headlands (500 to 800 ft.) faces the ocean, looking a little
+east of north. The walk along this coast from Culdaff to Malin Head,
+although laborious, on account of the steep-sided inlets, is well worth
+the trouble. The rugged boldness of Malin Head is most fascinating, and
+in a storm it is superbly grand. At this point the cliffs have fallen
+to a low elevation. The finest bit is at a place about half-way between
+Glengad and Stookaruddan.
+
+Having put up for the night at Malin Head, if possible, if not at Malin
+or Carndonagh (the latter for choice), Dunaff Head, guarding the eastern
+entrance to Lough Swilly, should be visited. Lough Swilly is the finest
+oceanic inlet round the whole coast of Ireland. The eastern cape, about
+700 ft. high, terminates in a range of bold precipices over 600 ft. high
+for some distance. It is a most enchanting bit of sea cliff. In variety
+of shape, sheerness of descent, and picturesque grouping and
+surroundings it is hard to match.
+
+The cliffs can be descended at the nose of Dunaff to an outer rocky
+continuation, provided there is no storm. In stormy weather this rock,
+of perhaps a hundred feet, is completely swept by surf. There is a steep
+gully in another place on the south side, which admits of a descent to
+the water's edge. For most of their length, however, these cliffs are
+quite impracticable. For some distance downwards all seems to go well,
+but the pelting of detritus from above and Atlantic surf from below
+render the lower parts as smooth as marble and straight as a wall into
+the water. Here and there the inner bluffs are more practicable, and
+from a boat, in very calm weather, a study of the cliffs would probably
+reveal more than the scrutiny from above, which is usually alone
+possible.
+
+South of Dunaff Head, up Lough Swilly, the precipitous coast of the
+Erris Mountains gives a most enjoyable stretch of rough work. It is
+often possible to descend to the sea, and having done so a difficult
+climb is often preferable to a tiresome ascent to the headland
+surmounting one of the numerous creeks.
+
+Across the Lough we find ourselves in the lovely peninsula of Fanet, the
+coast of which is admirably adapted for rock practice. The highest sea
+cliff is the Bin, a conspicuous headland 350 ft. high and very
+precipitous. It can, however, be scaled without much difficulty in one
+place, a few feet from the summit towards the south. Other parts of it
+appear practicable, and at low tide the base can be completely
+compassed--a wild bit of work if there is a sea on. There is an
+admirable hotel at Portsalon, with a famous golf links, about half-way
+between this cliff and Knockalla Mountains. The whole coast from
+Portsalon to the Bin is studded with cliffs, caves, and remarkably
+beautiful natural arches.
+
+The rock of Fanet is almost entirely quartzite, a metamorphosed
+sandstone, often pure and glittering quartz. It is firm and safe, but
+the absence of stratification renders it difficult to negotiate. This
+barren rock (it disintegrates to silex) is very common in Donegal, and
+is identical with that of the Twelve Benns, in Connemara.
+
+Before leaving Lough Swilly the remarkable view from Dunaff Head should
+be referred to. On a clear day the Paps of Jura, the Mull of Cantire,
+and even the Isles of Arran and Islay, can be seen in Scotland over the
+low Malin Head. Westwards, in a noble succession, lies the grand series
+of the outer Donegal capes. Fanet Head, Melmore Head, Breaghy Head, Horn
+Head, Tory Island, and the Bloody Foreland are all in view, and
+south-westwards the 'Donegal Highlands' look so imposing that an
+immediate expedition to them will probably be decided upon.
+
+Across the peninsula which lies between Mulroy Water and Lough Swilly
+there is a most comfortable inn at the Rosapenna Golf Links. It is an
+extremely pretty wooden structure, brought by the philanthropic Lord
+Leitrim, whose loss the district will never cease to deplore, from
+Norway, and the complete success of it makes one wonder that this sort
+of structure is not more often adopted. From Rosapenna expeditions can
+be made to cliffs and coast in all directions.
+
+_Horn Head_ is a grand range of sea cliffs, ten or twelve miles in
+extent, which are the largest breeding-place in Ireland for sea fowl.
+There are a few places where a descent is possible, and a careful
+exploration (with the proprietor's permission) will be certain to yield
+excellent climbing. The rock is as firm as iron in most places. Most of
+the climbing the writer has done on these cliffs has been from a boat
+upwards in search of sea fowls' eggs. One especially remembered one,
+after green cormorants' nests, at the entrance to that most noble cave
+the Gap of Doonmore, was of great difficulty. The absolutely reliable
+rock had very slight 1-1-1/2-in. ledges, and the latter part of the climb was
+slightly overhanging. The nests were reached, however.
+
+All round this Head excellent rock-climbing, coupled with magnificent
+scenery, is available. At the base of the cliffs, not far from the
+proprietor's dwelling-place, there is a little bay with a cave above the
+reach of the tide. Here a man once saved his life by climbing. My
+friend, Mr. Charles Stewart, the proprietor of the Horn Head estates,
+writes:--
+
+'I think it was the year 1876 that my man John Stewart was over three
+weeks in the cave watching my salmon, without the boat being able to go
+to him. The cliffs above were 600 ft. high. He could easily climb up
+about 100 ft., most of it cliff-climbing with a little grass. After that
+there is a very difficult piece of cliff, almost perpendicular, of about
+40 ft. It is easy enough to get down to this point from the top. A man
+went down and lowered a rope to him, but he could not come up straight,
+as the cliff overhung too much. He tied the rope round him and climbed
+up in a zigzag way. He was half an hour climbing this short piece, and
+was very exhausted, with his hands badly cut and bleeding. He had with
+him his son, a boy of about twelve years old. He had rope about 10 ft.
+long from his waist to the boy, who slipped twice on the way up, each
+time very nearly taking his father with him. About five years afterwards
+the boy was looking for eggs in the cliffs, and fell about 500 ft. to a
+shingly beach, rolling the first part of the way down a steep grassy
+bank for about 100 ft., and then a sheer drop of 150 ft. to another
+grassy bank where a small holly bush grows. When picked up (of course
+quite dead) he had a holly branch in his hand.'
+
+There is a comfortable hotel at Dunfanaghy, immediately inland of Horn
+Head.
+
+From Dunfanaghy Tory Island can be visited in calm weather--an
+interesting boating trip. It is fifteen or twenty miles to the north of
+west, and Horn Head has to be passed on the way, giving an opportunity
+of surveying its cliffs. There is a cliff or buttress (called, I
+believe, Tormore) which the islanders point out, that is somewhat
+difficult to climb upon. Once on the summit the successful cragsman can
+have any wish he may pine for. The highest point of the island is under
+300 ft. The inhabitants disregard the payment of all rents, taxes, &c.
+
+The turreted and bold contour of Tory renders it a great embellishment
+to the north-west coast. It is visible from all elevations for a
+considerable distance. Seen in a sunset its richly reddish-coloured
+granites light up with a warm and lovely glow. It formerly possessed
+monastic or other religious institutions, and several ruins of small
+churches or oratories are still visible. It abounds with legends--a home
+of superstition and folk-lore.
+
+From the neighbourhood of Dunfanaghy the most attractive objects upon
+the horizon are the mountains of the Donegal Highlands, _Muckish_ and
+_Errigal_ being especially conspicuous.
+
+_Muckish_ ('Pig's Back,' 2,200 ft.) is about 7 miles from Dunfanaghy. It
+is flat-topped, with short rotten cliffs on the north and west sides.
+
+_Errigal_ (an oratory or small church) is more interesting. The summit
+is pointed, bifid, and hardly large enough for more than two persons. It
+is composed chiefly of disintegrating quartzite, flanked on the west by
+igneous rocks. Between Errigal and Muckish (about 6 miles) lie the
+pointed summits of _Aghla Beg_ (1,860 ft.) and _Aghla More_ (1,916 ft.)
+The largest of many lakes is Alton Lough, where the writer was once
+solemnly cautioned against swimming, on account of the 'Phouea,' which
+lived there and used to mingle with the cattle as a cow and lure one
+down into the depths. So would he do with mankind. Numerous swims in
+that lake have weakened this prognostication.
+
+Above Alton Lough, on its south-west side, are the cliffs of _Beaghy_
+(1,200 ft.), which afford a nice bit of climbing. All these hills can be
+gone over in a day, though some (especially Errigal) will ask a second
+visit. About 4 miles from the base of Errigal is the excellent fishing
+inn at Gweedore. From Dunfanaghy over the summit of Muckish, Aghla,
+Beaghy, and Errigal down to Gweedore is a bit of mountaineering which
+can be most thoroughly recommended. Gweedore should be made a
+head-quarters for a few days; and the comfort obtained at the close of
+the day will be well earned and appreciated.
+
+The Poisoned Glen, six miles from Gweedore, is a stern and barren scene
+of almost sheer, polished granite cliffs, nearly 1,000 feet above the
+base of the glen. The south-west corner of the glen is the most
+precipitous. Several deep, black, narrow gorges cut deeply into the
+granite. Some, particularly one at the corner of a commanding buttress
+on the south side, about half-way up the glen, are of considerable
+difficulty. Wedged boulders occur frequently. The worst bit is the final
+struggle to the crest of the ridge, which slopes south-westward to the
+summit of Slieve Snacht. It will be found necessary in one place to
+break out of this gully on to the face, and it should only be attempted
+in dry weather. A full day may be spent going up one gully and down
+another on the south-west side of the glen. Often the descent is far
+easier, a jump of 12 or 15 ft. down to the shingly soft bed of the
+gully clearing an obstacle difficult to breast upwards.
+
+The most glaciated spots in Donegal are this glen and _Slieve Snacht_, a
+rounded hump of granite.
+
+By proceeding to the head of the Poisoned Glen, past the Gweedore Lakes,
+and past the prettily wooded Dunlewy Lake which lies abreast of the
+Glen, up the winding stream in its base, and taking the ravine in its
+apex, we reach a pass known as Ballaghgeeha Gap ('Windy Pass'). From
+this point it is a short walk across a valley to a road, visible from
+the pass, which follows the Gweebarra valley south-west down to
+Doochary. Taking it in the opposite direction, it leads into Glenbeagh,
+a gorge about eight miles long, with a lake enclosed by steep cliffs on
+its west shore. On its right a beautifully wooded mountain slope
+contains the seat of the proprietor, Glenbeagh Castle. This valley is
+crossed at its mouth by the main road to Gweedore, some 10 miles away,
+and the circuit described is one of the most beautiful mountain walks
+imaginable. In order to vary this, and save the road work home, a
+scramble along the west shore of the lake may be effected to the granite
+cliffs opposite Glenbeagh Castle, known as Keamnacally. In several
+places an ascent can be effected of about 1,000 ft. The crest of the
+cliff leads up by a gradual slope to the summit of Dooish, 2,147 ft.
+This point is in a straight line for Gweedore from Glenbeagh, and if the
+mountaineer wants more work the summit of Errigal lies in the same
+bee-line.
+
+_Lough Salt_ (1,546 ft.), a conspicuous hill, was ascended and described
+by Otway about seventy years ago, in the language of that period
+(_Scenes and Sketches in Ireland_). He adds some quaint legends about
+two of the lakes. Into one of these St. Patrick banished the last Irish
+snake, a rebellious animal that gave him much anxiety.
+
+_Gweedore to Carrick._--The pedestrian had better omit the north coast,
+and proceed westwards round the coast to _Dungloe_.
+
+Aranmore Island, with its handsome red granites, shows some fine cliffs,
+especially those at its north-west end, between Torneady and the
+lighthouse. In the bay formed by these cliffs a grand tooth or monolith
+stands isolated and vertical, about 100 ft. in height. The cliffs are
+from 400 to nearly 600 ft., and some rise perpendicularly from the
+water.
+
+The best point to visit Aran from is Burton Port, about 3 miles off.
+Skilled boatmen are required, as the passage is winding, amongst islets,
+rocks, rapid tide currents, and shallows. Aranmore, like many other
+Atlantic islands, slopes inland or eastward, and faces the Atlantic with
+a wall of cliffs. The coast north of it is wild and beautiful, with
+interesting physical features. Across Umfin Island runs a gruesome
+cleft, through which a heavy sea tears its way in fury, meeting the sea
+from the other end in frantic commotion. Further east, on Horn Head, is
+the famous MacSwyne's Gun, for many years a signal to the whole county
+that a furious sea was raging at the Horn. It is a 'puffing hole' on a
+large scale, but the little rift, ever widening, has slowly silenced
+all, or nearly so. On this Head also is the famous _Marble Arch_, Tempul
+Breagha, jutting out into the sea.
+
+At Dungloe good quarters and excellent fishing, as usual, are
+obtainable.
+
+From Dungloe the road lies through Doochary, Glenties, and Ardara to
+Carrick. Each of these last villages has a good inn. The best plan is to
+break the journey at Ardara, and take the magnificent coast walk or
+climb into Carrick, a good day's work. As far as Maghera the way is
+plain along a low sandy coast. West of this lies Maum Glen, whose cliffs
+are precipitous enough, and if the glen be crossed a mile inland it is a
+steep descent and ascent, though devoid of difficulty. Following the
+coast, there is a track near the water's margin for some distance. Soon
+the precipices forming the north face of Slieve-a-Tooey are reached. If
+the tide is low the base can be followed a long way with one or two ugly
+corners. The cliffs are up to 1,000 ft. (Slieve-a-Tooey 1,692), but can
+be ascended in various places, and the land lowers again at Port. All
+along the scenery is of the most impressive character. Outside Port lies
+Tormore Island, one of a group of boulders, a rock which, though hardly
+half a mile round its base, is a tremendous sea fowl breeding-place,
+second only to Horn Head. At low water Tormore can be reached from the
+shore, and it is scaled in many places by lads in search of eggs. One
+native was on the Great Tor when a storm arose, and cut him off from the
+shore and from all help. After a week he died of starvation and
+exposure. It is, perhaps, about 500 to 600 ft. high. Pursuing our way
+along the ever-varying cliffs, most interesting in a storm, the curious
+promontory called Sturrell is reached in about 4 miles. The knife-edged
+saddle is very rotten, but leads to a firm block of rock nearly 1,000
+ft. above the sea. So defiant is the challenge of this rock that no
+cragsman can pass it by. The passage is not pleasant, yet even on a
+second visit the writer was powerless to resist temptation. The
+tottering wall of rotten rock gives the impression that the whole
+connection may slither down. Considering what desperate Atlantic storms
+this crumbling cliff withstands annually, such fears must be
+exaggerated. Nevertheless it would be improper to recommend this climb.
+It is dangerous as well as difficult, very exciting, and exceedingly
+delightful--after it is over.
+
+The rock along this northern side of the mountainous promontory of
+Banagh is chiefly quartzite, but in some places, as Sturrell, a rotten
+schist.
+
+About a mile south of Sturrell another and a grander headland is
+reached, that of Glen Head. It is 600 ft. of cliff, and deservedly
+famous. It is easily visited from Carrick Hotel, about 7 miles off. On
+much of the southern side a descent is practicable.
+
+From Glen Head to the road to Carrick is a short walk. At this hotel we
+are at the inland base of a renowned sea precipice.
+
+_Slieve League_ (1,972 ft.), whose southern face descends from the
+summit almost precipitously to the Atlantic, is perhaps the finest ocean
+cliff in Europe. The ascent from the hotel, almost at sea level, is
+easy. It is best to drive down to Teelin Bay, and strike up the mountain
+westwards along the coast. Carrigan Head is soon reached, and from a
+point north of it, on the south side of Bunglass, the finest view of
+Slieve League is obtained. This gradual ascent to about 1,000 ft. is a
+glorious experience.
+
+[Illustration: GLEN HEAD]
+
+From the southern Bunglass cliffs the view of the richly-coloured
+precipices opposite is superb. This colouring is a remarkable feature.
+The cliff is well-nigh sheer for 1,000 ft., descending straight from a
+heathery brink. With the exception of the wonderful cliff seen in
+Yellowstone Park from 'Inspiration Point,' the writer could name no
+rock-face with such an assemblage of hues. Dolerites, diorites,
+quartzites, schists, and conglomerates all help to form this remarkable
+mountain. Below the Atlantic lights up and enhances the whole scene.
+Though usually breaking into heavy surge it is sometimes as smooth as
+glass, and then the visitor should secure a boat at Teelin (or Towney
+Bay), and row beneath, viewing the caves. One of these, with a small
+entrance and a vast interior, gives forth appalling reverberating echoes
+to a horn or a gun.
+
+At Bunglass there is a track leading down to the sea, and a swim rewards
+the descent. Crossing the heavy-shingled foreshore to the base of the
+opposite cliffs, there is a gully which appears practicable from below,
+and leads to the very crest of the cliffs. The violence of storms and
+the pitiless pelting of surf below and dislodged fragments from above
+have cemented the steep floor of this slit into an uncompromising
+hardness. The writer tried it, passed one or two bad places, and was
+rejoiced beyond measure to reach the bottom with unbroken bones.
+
+From the summit of Bunglass cliffs, at a point a little north of the
+Eagle's Nest, at an altitude of 1,000 ft., it is practicable to traverse
+the whole face of Slieve, at about the middle height, 700 to 1,000 ft.
+above sea level, from end to end, to the bluffs of Leahan. In two or
+three places the ocean edge can be reached, besides the point already
+mentioned. In search of botanical specimens we have climbed them in all
+directions. There is a track (of a sort) to the sea at one place between
+the Eagle's Nest and the One Man's Pass. While scrambling along the sea
+face this track was discovered amongst steep heather, bracken, and
+bear-berry, and a footprint showed it to be a human resort. Finally an
+old man and a little boy emerged from the ocean brink, loaded with
+samphire, both inside and outside, and eating it as they rested on their
+climb. Vastly surprised at the appearance of the only stranger they had
+ever seen there, they eagerly besought him to remove his boots--a
+suggestion declined with thanks. Samphire boiled with milk is a cure for
+a cough, but it was a novelty to see it eaten raw. This track is called
+Thone-na-culliagh ('Back of the Grouse').
+
+It took the writer three summer days to complete this traverse from end
+to end of the median height of Slieve League. Several nasty ravines,
+iron-floored and steep-edged, had to be crossed. At the close of each
+day an ascent had to be discovered--an anxious undertaking, as the
+return invariably seemed too dreadful to contemplate. The point
+relinquished at the close of each day was religiously repaired to on the
+following.
+
+Excessively steep slopes of cemented gravel, grass, or crumbling rock,
+half held together by heather, are the usual difficulties. But in four
+or five places odd right-angled walls of horizontal, loosely-balanced
+blocks of slaty schist jut out right across the face of the cliff, the
+legs of the angle being sheer to the sea and horizontal above. The
+blocks lie loose upon each other, and are not always large enough to
+give one a sense of anything except the rickets. Usually it was possible
+to climb beside these buttresses, and, balancing by them, get over in
+gingerly fashion. But one--the largest--had to be climbed on
+equilibristic principles. Sheep tracks follow the face of the cliff in
+some places. Where a sheep can go a man can go, though he may not like
+jumps from bad footing to worse landing, where even sheep occasionally
+come to grief. Accordingly a track going horizontally here looked
+encouraging to the writer, till a flock of wild goats, signally scared,
+put his confidence to flight, for a wild goat will lead a man where he
+may find it necessary to make a prolonged halt. However the goat track
+vanished upward, and the seven-mile traverse was successfully completed
+to the Eagle's Nest.
+
+From the summit of Slieve League there is a fine oceanic view of island,
+headland, bay, and cliff. South-east of the summit, at a slightly lower
+altitude, is the _One Man's Pass_, about the terrors of which a great
+deal of rubbish has been written. It is a steep, narrow, short ridge of
+firm rock, which any mountaineer would walk up or down with his hands in
+his pockets. In a storm he would, however, adopt a worm-like attitude.
+The sides are very steep, but practicable both seaward and inland. It
+commands a superb view. Among the legends connected with Slieve League
+one about a Spaniard, a priest, and a pony is the most captivating (see
+_The Donegal Highlands_).
+
+[Illustration: ONE MAN'S PASS]
+
+Slieve League is capped by the remnants of outlying beds of lower
+carboniferous age, conglomerates, with fossil plant remains. Botanically
+also this mountain is most interesting, rivalling Ben Bulben for first
+place as a habitat for mountain plants in Ireland. There is an
+interesting feature visible from the summit--a group of spire-like
+pinnacles, close below the crest of the ridge. These are known as the
+'chimneys,' and form an attractive assemblage. They are of the same
+nature as the flying buttresses already spoken of.
+
+[Illustration: THE CHIMNEYS (SLIEVE LEAGUE)]
+
+Slieve League takes its name from 'liag' (flag). There is a flag
+formation near the summit. Bunglass is 'Green River Mouth,' but a modern
+guide-book translates Bunglass 'Beautiful View,' a ludicrous error
+explained by the fact that the point which gives so noble a prospect of
+Bunglass is known as Awark More ('Great View').
+
+_Croagh Gorm_ and _Blue Stack Mountains_ lie north and west of
+Barnesmore Gap and above Lough Eske, reaching nearly to Glenties, Lough
+Eske being about 30 miles east of Slieve League. The coast eastwards
+from Slieve League becomes suddenly low, and the formation changes to
+carboniferous limestone, which occupies a broad belt round Donegal Bay.
+The Blue Stack group is about 7 miles across.
+
+_Blue Stack_ (2,219 ft.) lies above Lough Eske and is granite, although
+the Lough itself lies in the limestone. About Lough Belshade, which lies
+north of Lough Eske, about half-way up the east side of Blue Stack, the
+granite is precipitous, and one bold bluff west of this lake (Belshade),
+with a sort of little cave in its face, may be taken in the ascent of
+the mountain. Most of the granite portions of the range are rounded,
+flowing, gently contoured, barren slopes of bare rock, sometimes at low
+elevations becoming steep and difficult. The ascent of Blue Stack from
+Lough Eske should on no account be missed. The lake is about 10 miles
+round, and most beautifully situated at the southern base of a bold mass
+of rugged, desolate granitic bosses and cliffs, cleft by a few fairly
+steep ravines. In direct contrast to this sombre scene is the west shore
+of the lake, which is girt with timber, chiefly natural. Ardnamona is
+the nearest portion of this sylvan scene to the mountain base, and the
+whole basin is admirably sheltered by the surrounding mountains from the
+violent storms which of late years have been more destructive than ever.
+
+From the road above Ardnamona, looking down over it upon Lough Eske and
+its solemn background, the view is perfect. It is a sort of compact
+Killarney, which the eye and mind will long feast upon.
+
+North-west of Blue Stack, a couple of miles from it, lies _Lavagh More_
+(2,211 ft.), a fine upstanding lump of turf-covered schists. Schists and
+sandstones constitute the greater part of these hills. From Lavagh More,
+descending southwards, by a series of lakes, the head of the Shrule
+River is reached, in a valley with a precipitous northern side, which
+gives difficult bits of crag work. In this valley at the northern end
+lies a waterfall known as the Grey Mare's Tail.
+
+The Blue Stack Mountains are best explored from Donegal on the south or
+Glenties on the west, in both of which places there are comfortable
+inns. It is best to drive to the head of Lough Eske, and it is a fine
+walk from that, including most of the tops, down to Martin's Bridge, 3
+miles from Glenties, over Blue Stack, Lavagh More, and Silver Hill.
+
+In the mountainous district around Glenties other excursions are
+available. A walk to be recommended is from Barnesmore Gap (drive of 7
+miles from Donegal) across the Croagh Gorm and Blue Stack summits to
+Glenties. Barnesmore Gap should by all means be visited. The mountains
+on either side rise 1,500 to 1,700 ft., not quite precipitously, but
+with bluffs, heavy boulders, and steep rocky faces. Caesar Otway gives a
+highly-coloured description of this impressive scene. Another way to
+explore the group is to follow up the course of the Reelan water through
+a peculiarly secluded and remote valley. From Glenties to Ardara is
+about 4 miles, and the latter village is a capital halting place.
+Fishing and fowling can be had. The road from Ardara to Carrick, about
+10 miles, passes up the wild, grand gorge of Glen Gesh by a zigzag road,
+reminding one of some of the Swiss ascents. For the sake of the varied
+scenery obtained by these doublings it is almost preferable to stick to
+the road till near the summit. On the south side of this glen it is
+bounded by a range known as _Altnadewon_ or _Croaghnagcaragh_ (_Reek_,
+'hill of the thicket'). A steep rock face extends from the main road at
+the 'nock of the Ballagh,' or Pass, which forms a wide amphitheatre on
+the north face of the highest point of this range (1,652 ft.) For some
+distance it is by no means easy to scale this declivity.
+
+Towards the southern verge of the county the coast is low and flat, but
+the bold precipitous face of Ben Bulben looks highly attractive.
+
+Before leaving Donegal it will be well to mention one useful hint. The
+Ordnance maps of this county show 100-ft. contours, which are of the
+utmost advantage upon any excursion, as the height of any point attained
+by the pedestrian may be fixed within a hundred feet. Very few other
+parts of Ireland are thus favoured.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=The Ben Bulben Range= lies in the northern part of Sligo and Leitrim; a
+most conspicuous object in the landscape viewed from Slieve League
+across Donegal Bay. The shapely escarpment of the nearest point looks,
+indeed, as if it belonged to Donegal, which is 7 miles away. This
+portion consists of _Cloughcorragh_ (2,007 ft.) and _Ben Whiskin_ (1,666
+ft.)
+
+These mountains are almost entirely carboniferous limestone. Much of the
+group is an elevated plateau, girt round on all sides, or nearly so, by
+limestone precipices, usually some hundreds of feet high, rising from a
+long steep slope of debris. The height of the cliff edges is about 1,600
+ft., of which the talus occupies about two-thirds. The cliffs are fine,
+but consist largely of insecure blocks. Occasionally a fissure occurs,
+permitting ascent or descent, and some very steep ones are used on the
+south side of the range by turf-cutters.
+
+In consequence of this formation the pedestrian may find himself
+following a long series of cliff edges, without being able to discover a
+way of descent. To examine the cliffs the proper course is to follow the
+sheep walk, which usually occurs at the base of the precipices above the
+talus. The walk across the range, from Bundoran to Sligo, is full of
+interest to a mountaineer, and the descent into the valley north of
+Sligo from _King's Mountain_ is one that will never be effaced from his
+memory. It is not easy to find the passages leading down. The valley is
+a vast amphitheatre almost enclosed by cliffs, sheer and, including
+talus, about 1,000 ft. high.
+
+It is always a pleasant experience to follow the crest of a line of
+limestone cliffs. Similar cliffs on a smaller scale are those of Moher
+and Aran, in the county Clare. It is probably owing to the fissures and
+laminations of the limestone, which afford a perfect system of internal
+drainage, that such cliffs are not only dry and clean, but also free
+from the gullies and valleys which, causing frequent ups and downs,
+sometimes render cliff walks extremely fatiguing--near Waterford, for
+example. Again, limestone grows no heather and forms little peat, so
+that the usual footing is clean grass sod--very pleasant after hummocky
+tussocks--and yielding 'quaas.'
+
+For these mountains Kinlough is perhaps the most convenient centre.
+Manor Hamilton and Dromahaire may also be utilised, but Bundoran and
+Sligo, though the latter commands the beautiful Lough Gill, are too
+distant from the hills.
+
+It may be mentioned here that there are various attractions in Northern
+Ireland outside the scope of this work. Fishing is always in reach, and
+of late years golf has thriven apace. No finer links exist than those of
+Portsalon, Rosapenna, Portrush, and Newcastle, and there are many others
+of growing excellence.
+
+Ben Bulben is famous for its mountain flora, a valuable report on which,
+by Messrs. Barrington and Cowell, has been published by the Royal Irish
+Academy.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Mayo.= Here are the highest mountains in the west of Ireland, Mweelrea
+(2,688 ft.) and Nephin (2,646 ft.)
+
+[Illustration: MAYO AND CONNEMARA]
+
+_Nephin_ is a round, isolated lump of quartzite, becoming schistose,
+rapidly disintegrating on a northern spur, where the only declivities
+occur. For the mountaineer it is both distant and unattractive, but on
+clear days--which are rare--there is an extensive view.
+
+About 10 miles west of Nephin the axis of the Corslieve range is struck
+near the middle of its almost north and south direction. This chain of
+hills includes Laghdantybaun (2,369 ft.), at the northern end, Corslieve
+(1,785 ft.), Nephinbeg (2,065 ft.), and several others over 2,000 ft.
+The chain is about 15 miles in length, terminating near Newport, where
+fairly comfortable accommodation can be had. The northern hills are
+slate or sandstone, the southern quartzite. It is an interesting range,
+and the scenery is wild and rugged, but there is little true climbing.
+The best way to approach them is to drive from Leenane Inn to the Deel
+River, due north, and then strike west over a wet bog, full of dunlins,
+plover, and curlew.
+
+_Achill Island_ is about 15 miles west of Newport. The mountainous
+peninsula of Curraun Achill intervenes, and is about 7 miles across,
+rising to a tableland of 1,300 to 1,500 ft. in height, composed chiefly
+of horizontally-stratified sandstones and conglomerates, not very safe,
+but pleasant enough to follow along by the terraces on its north-eastern
+edge. Juniper is remarkably abundant here, and, at lower levels,
+Mediterranean heath.
+
+On Achill Island there is a comfortable hotel at the 'missionary
+settlement,' which is about 10 miles from the ferry. The settlement is
+at the base of Slieve More (2,204 ft.), the highest point of Achill.
+This mountain is well worthy of a visit, but far finer are the noble
+cliffs at Croghaun, about 5 miles west of Slieve More and 2,192 ft.
+above sea level.
+
+[Illustration: ACHILL HEAD]
+
+Achill is mainly quartzite, which rock invariably looks and is barren
+and forbidding.
+
+There are several points along these cliffs where a descent to the sea
+is practicable, and plenty of climbing is obtainable along the face of
+Croghaun, which may be traversed in all directions, the cliffs having
+the appearance and repute of being more inaccessible than they really
+are. The rock (quartzite) is broken into screes and heavy shingle in
+many places.
+
+_Croaghpatrick_ (2,510 ft.), famous for its unrivalled view, and
+formerly called 'The Reek,' has a northern face of precipitous
+declivities where the quartzite formation (as on Nephin) gives place to
+schists and shales. The view to the north of Clew Bay, with its hundreds
+of islets and Achill beyond, is unsurpassably lovely. The climbing is
+more of a 'slither' amongst rotten footing or shingle on the northern
+side. The summit is crowned with numerous cairns, being a famous
+'pattern.' The beautiful St. Dabeoc's or Connemara heath abounds.
+Westport, at its foot, has an excellent hotel, and it is better to
+return here from Achill, or vice versa.
+
+_Mweelrea._--Unlike the quartzite mountains, which are usually conical
+or dome-shaped, Mweelrea is of a totally different structure. Composed
+of Silurian slates chiefly, it forms an extensive tableland at the north
+of Killary Fiord, in the south-west corner of Mayo. It is intersected by
+three principal valleys, radiating at about equal angles from Doo Lough.
+One--that of Delphi and Bundorragha--runs southward to the Killary.
+Another--that of the Glenummera river and Owenduff river--has an
+easterly trend to the Eriff. The third valley is that of Doo Lough,
+Lough Cullin, and Lough Connel, which runs north-west to the sea. The
+names of many of these points, such as Delphi Mountain, the highest
+above Doo Lough, and Loughty Mountain, its elevated eastern spur, ending
+in Glen Laur--are not given on the Ordnance map, and were obtained from
+the natives. Error easily arises in nomenclature. A hill or ridge may
+have a name known to a few, or belonging to one slope, or to a people
+living on one side. Again, it may lie along the boundary of two town
+lands, and each may give its name to one side of it. Moreover the
+pronunciation is a study in itself. Near Newport there is a district
+called on the map Burrishoole, and a bay named Bellacragher. These are
+pronounced 'Brizzool' and 'Ballycroy.'
+
+The Mweelrea group consists of a series of plateaux, bounded by long
+ranges of precipices, ridges, and gullies, often ending in sheer
+ravines. Mweelrea itself fronts the mouth of Killary Fiord, curving in a
+grand tabular ridge, 2,600 ft. high, above two small lakes at 1,200 ft.
+The pass of Delphi and Doo Lough are the most imposing scenes in the
+west of Ireland for wildness and sombre grandeur.
+
+The climbing is of varying difficulty. Between their bases and the
+screes below tempting ledges wind upwards, but here the strata are
+almost vertical, rendering them extremely treacherous. A nasty fall
+impressed this peculiarity on the writer's memory. In other places the
+rock is sandstone, mixed with decomposing conglomerates--a formation
+worse to scale than any except the miocene trap rocks of the Antrim
+coast.
+
+There is one interesting and difficult climb. A lake--Glencullin ('Glen
+of Hollies') Lake--lies immediately north of Doo Lough. A stream runs
+into the south-west corner of this lake out of Glencullin, starting from
+a series of black, sunless precipices, seamed with gorges and well-nigh
+2,000 ft. high. These can be climbed by two gorges at least from base to
+summit. The name of these cliffs is Asko Keeran ('Ridge of Mountain
+Ash'), and when the crest is gained a fine walk is the reward, over Ben
+Bury (2,610 ft.) to the highest point, Mweelrea (2,688 ft.), along a
+curved ridge one to two miles long.
+
+One portion of the Mweelrea system--that which lies immediately east of
+Fin Lough or Delphi--is known as Ben Gorm, or Kead-na-binnian. The
+cliffs upon this mountain are formed chiefly of gneiss, which breaks up
+into blocks, owing to numerous transverse fissures across the
+lamination. These blocks lie on one another, often on a steep slope,
+owing to the roughness of their surfaces, which prevents their sliding.
+They are then more dangerous even than slaty rocks, since this very
+roughness beguiles a climber into feeling that the footing is safe at a
+steeper angle than on the smoother surfaces, while the rocks are merely
+in unstable equilibrium.
+
+Maamtrasna, Slieve Partry, the Formnamore Mountains, or Letterbrickaun
+('Wet Hill of Badgers'), abut upon the head of Killary Fiord. The
+highest points, or rather flats, are Devils Mother (2,131 ft.),
+Maamtrasna (Formnamore) (2,239 and 2,209 ft.) They are chiefly composed
+of sandstone and sandstone conglomerate, and form a series of high
+barren tablelands, dotted with pools, and of no interest whatever.
+
+The above group, as well as Mweelrea, is within easy reach of the
+excellent Leenane Inn at Killary.
+
+_Cliffs._--Of the numerous magnificent cliffs on the western seaboard of
+Ireland none, in the writer's opinion, excel those of North Mayo.
+Certain aspects of Slieve League are grander, the cliffs of Moher are
+more splendidly symmetrical, Horn Head, Dunaff Head, Achill, all have
+their glories, but the Mayo cliffs are unmatched for extent and variety.
+From Ballina by Ballycastle to Belmullet, round the coast, is the finest
+sea-cliff walk the writer has ever experienced. For three days there was
+no cessation of variety in shape, in sculpture, in colouring of the
+precipices, always lofty and always plunging into a surf-like snow
+beneath, fringing the blue ocean outside. Occasionally, but rarely,
+ravines occur, leading to some tiny rock-bound bay. The coast here for
+many miles is higher than the land inside, and the streams flow away
+from the sea to the south, and then west to the Atlantic. Perhaps the
+most hopeless area of undrainable bog in Ireland lies in Western and
+North-Western Mayo.
+
+Although it was impossible to omit mention of these cliffs, they are not
+for the climber. They are too sheer, and, what is worse, there is no
+accommodation. From Ballycastle west to Belderg is within reach. But it
+is west of Belderg that the cliffs are grandest, as at Glinsk, Doonmara,
+and Benwee Head. Without the happy fortune which enabled the writer to
+use a shooting lodge, located west of Belderg, the distances would have
+been impossible without camping out.
+
+From Belderg to Belmullet the rock is chiefly a hard and reliable
+quartzite, often seamed with dykes of basalt. Numerous needle-shaped
+islets, stacks, and stookawns occur. The whole coast abounds with sea
+fowl, and is singularly free from human influence, since the absence of
+bays, strands, or harbours renders long stretches of it uninhabitable
+even for fishermen.
+
+Otway's _Sketches in Erris and Tyrawley_ (1841) should be read.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Galway Mountains.=--The Galway Mountains, besides the Maamtrasna range,
+spoken of above, are _Maamturk range_, _Benchoona_, _Bennabeola_ or
+_Twelve Bens_ (or 'Pins').
+
+_Maamturk range_, including the hills which form such a conspicuous
+feature in Joyce's Country, extend, roughly speaking, from the Killary
+Hotel south-east to Lough Shindilia, at the Half-way House on the coach
+road from Clifden to Galway. It forms a zigzag series of beehive-shaped
+domes, connected by ridges, which are frequently 500 ft. to 1,000 ft.
+below the neighbouring summits. Usually these connecting ridges are set
+at angles with the tops quite at variance with the main axis of the
+chain, and are invisible from the summits, so that compass bearings are
+most misleading.
+
+These truncated mounds are composed mainly of gneiss, sometimes of
+quartzite, and in the northern portion the chain becomes more fertile
+and of a clayey, schistose nature. They are very similar to the Twelve
+Bens, save that the latter have their conical tops still adhering,
+apparently showing that this elongated line was more vulnerable than
+the self-protecting 'Pins' cluster.
+
+This chain is singularly barren, but so bold and conspicuous a feature
+in the landscape claims exploration. The writer once traversed the whole
+length of summits from the Half-way House to Leenane in a walk, or
+climb, for about 14 hours. The going is often excessively rugged and
+wearisome, owing to the loose detritus of heavy, angular quartzose
+blocks. An occasional oasis, as at Maumeen, charms the eye with its
+verdure and some botanical treasures. Near this an hotel once existed,
+but at present there is nothing nearer than Glendalough or Leenane, at
+the extreme ends of the range.
+
+Many a stiff bit of climbing, short and sharp, was met with on this most
+severe day's work, in making growingly reckless short cuts from summit
+to summit. From Leckavrea to the Killary there are about fifteen
+distinct summits, averaging 2,000 ft. in height.
+
+_Benchoona_ (1,975 ft.), a northern outlier of the Twelve Bens, lies at
+the mouth of the Killary, opposite Mweelrea. Killary Harbour or Fiord
+runs inland eastwards for some 15 miles. Benchoona is gneissose, with
+two summits, close on 2,000 ft., and a lake lies between them. Several
+Alpine plants occur among the north-east cliffs. The rock here is
+uncommonly dangerous to climb, being loosely constructed and apt to
+disintegrate in unexpectedly massive segments. On such an occasion,
+although against the dogma of climbing, a swift and sudden jump or
+spring is sometimes the only escape. The block--perhaps a ton or two in
+weight--which is quietly sliding, or more probably overturning, with
+its captive, yields momentum enough for a final kick to clear out
+altogether to any preferable station. These rocks are unfit to climb,
+and will only be meddled with for some special purpose.
+
+_Twelve Bens_ (2,391 ft.), within easy access of first-class hotels in
+Connemara, are huddled together in beautiful confusion, and offer
+problems of special interest in their puzzling geography and watershed
+system. Bennabeola is entered by no roads of any great penetration, but
+there are several valleys forming arteries with its very heart. Of these
+Glen Inagh from the east, Glen Coaghan from the south, and Owenglin from
+the west are the most important. The best method is to select a
+glen--Glen Coaghan for choice--and work to its head. Two or three
+summits will then probably lie equidistant. Most of these summits are of
+quartzite, with short heavy screes, white and extremely barren. The most
+interesting climb is upon the north of Muckanaght (2,150 ft.), which is
+connected with Benfree by a ridge at about 1,000 ft. The cliffs lie
+about 1,300 to 1,800 ft., and from near their upper edge to the summit
+(2,150 ft.) is a steep and perilous grassy slope.
+
+Muckanaght is about 2-1/2 miles from the lovely Kylemore Lake. Two
+'Pins,' Benbaunbeg and Benfree, intervene. The peak itself is connected
+by ridges with Bencullagh and Benbaun South. From Muckanaght the heart
+of Bennabeola is laid bare, and, given a clear day, no better point of
+vantage could be desired.
+
+The Twelve Bens are in the heart of some of the loveliest scenery in
+the world, full of varied and interesting scrambles, and botanically
+they are pre-eminently the richest in mountain plants in Connaught,
+Croaghpatrick coming next.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Clare.=--_The Cliffs of Moher_ may be visited from excellent quarters
+at Lisdoonvarna (the 'Fort in the Gap'), in the north-west of Clare, a
+district known as the Burren. This district is formed of the
+carboniferous limestone which occupies most of Central Ireland.
+
+This formation, replete with carboniferous fossils, is remarkably
+monotonous and symmetrical. When it occurs in a cliff formation, as at
+Moher, or the south-western sides of the Aran Islands, it forms a sheer
+wall, absolutely vertical, to the sea, or else it is arranged in a
+series of terraces, like gigantic steps. Very rarely a chasm occurs,
+connecting two terraces. More often it is possible, by means of slight
+protruding ledges, to ascend an almost vertical face, since the rock is
+invariably either absolutely safe or easy to test. Sometimes, as at the
+southern end of the Moher cliffs, isolated pillars of rock occur, which
+are most pleasing to climb and pleasant to remain perched upon when
+climbed.
+
+These rocky surfaces of Aran and Burren are very tiresome and difficult
+to traverse, as the fissures (2-12 in. in width) between the blocks are
+often adjacent. The rock is usually cut into slabs, generally
+rectangular in shape. The loose blocks are piled by the inhabitants into
+tottering walls, which are difficult either to cross or upset with
+safety. The easiest way is to ascend gently and then jump with a kick
+behind. On Aran especially the going is most laborious.
+
+[Illustration: CLIFFS OF MOHER]
+
+As an instance of the sheerness of these cliffs on Aran boys may be seen
+fishing with a rodless line from their edge, 200 ft. above the water.
+Inland these cliffs run gradually in a series of irregular declivities,
+a gently sloping flagged platform to low levels.
+
+Much is done here by the natives in the way of egg-collecting, with the
+assistance of ropes, the eggs being chiefly those of guillemots, gulls,
+and razor-bills, and required for food.
+
+The cliff scenery of Moher is superb and unequalled. It has not the
+variety of stack, needle, ravine, that other formations have, but its
+very regularity is most harmoniously imposing. On the other hand, the
+brilliant and varying colouring of North Mayo or Slieve League, in
+Donegal, is entirely absent.
+
+The Aran Islands are visited from Galway by steamer. There is an hotel
+on the north island. They are full of ethnological and archaeological
+interest.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Co. Down.= _Mourne Mountains._--This chain of granite hills covers an
+elliptic space of about 15 miles by 6, the longer axis stretching from
+Newcastle to Rosstrevor, where there are excellent hotels. From either
+point to the other is a day's walk that will well repay the labour, and
+can be made to include all the principal summits. The descent to
+Newcastle, through Donard Lodge woods, by the waterfall, is very pretty,
+and by varying the night's accommodation a still more beautiful route
+lies through Tollymore Park to Bryansford, where good quarters are
+obtainable.
+
+[Illustration: MOURNE MOUNTAINS]
+
+The highest points lie at the Newcastle or north-east extremity of the
+group. The southern portions are less interesting, and the western
+flanks are very dreary.
+
+These hills, being of granite, have few precipices, many rounded
+summits, sloping sides, and heavy screes, of the usual uncomfortable
+angular nature. The 'Eagle's Cliff,' a mile to the north of Slieve
+Donard, affords some climbing, and a little rock exercise can be had at
+'the Castles,' lying on a spur of Slieve Commedagh, to the west of
+Slieve Donard, below it and half a mile away.
+
+Slieve Bingian, in the south-east of the range, has a little easy
+climbing.
+
+There is also a considerable cliff on a shoulder north-west of Slieve
+Meel-more. It is known as Spellick, and is easily visited from
+Bryansford. It is worth examination, but the writer has not climbed it.
+
+The view from Slieve Donard is, of course, famous.
+
+The ascent from Bryansford, through Tullymore Park, taking Slieve
+Commedagh and the Castles _en route_, is perhaps the finest walk, so far
+as scenery is concerned, to be had in this picturesque cluster of
+mountains.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Co. Dublin.=--_Lambay_ is an island abounding in sea fowl and wild
+flowers, about 2-1/2 miles from the nearest point of land, and about 10
+miles north-east of Dublin. It is best approached by boat from Donabate,
+or less conveniently from Howth, Malahide, Rush, or Skerries.
+
+The cliffs reach about 250 ft., and are practically sheer in many
+places, as on the north-east side at Freshwater Bay, or a little west
+of it, and on the south-east cliffs below Raven's Well.
+
+Several most interesting climbs are to be obtained on it. The best are
+on those cliffs west of Freshwater Bay.
+
+About 30 ft. above the water's edge at high-water mark there is a narrow
+and deep horizontal fissure, which in May is packed with breeding sea
+fowl. The ornithological visitor will at once feel it his duty to reach
+that fissure. The writer's first visit to Lambay was made in the company
+of one Dykes, known to be the best clifter on Howth. He pronounced this
+fissure inaccessible. There is a bend in the cliffs leading to the
+right-hand extremity of the fissure. Here lay the only chance, and the
+first two grips out of the boat are easy enough, raising one 6 or 8 ft.
+(or perhaps 15 if the tide is out) above the water. After that there are
+two enormous stretches, with practically no foothold. If these two
+points are passed, the fissure is in reach, and an ugly wriggle will
+land the unwelcome intruder on his anterior surface upon the narrow
+ledge forming its base.
+
+Dykes meantime was highly encouraging, calling out, 'Madness,' 'Break
+your neck,' 'You can never get down.' The climber had, however, an
+original plan of descent, and having, with considerable difficulty,
+divested himself of his garments, he dropped them first into the boat
+and then himself into the water.
+
+On revisiting these cliffs ten years later, and pointing out this climb
+to a very good rock-man, he failed to see how the climb was done, and so
+it had to be done again. This time, however, the tide was out, and on
+stripping to take the plunge it became at once apparent that a rock
+exactly in the line of descent was too near the surface. To climb down
+had always appeared dangerous, on account of the lack of foothold and
+the very awkward nature of the backward movement out of the fissure. So
+an attempt was made on the wall above.
+
+It is marvellous how a naked man can adhere to a cliff. For a full hour
+an unhappy preadamite man writhed and glued himself against the face of
+that cliff, descending and reascending by new lines, but always checked
+by a straight wall about 150 ft. up. Anything appeared better than that
+hateful descent. Some friends ran to a coastguard station a mile or more
+away for a rope. However before they reappeared the descent was faced
+and safely accomplished.
+
+This sketch will serve to show that high mountains are by no means
+necessary for the practice of rock-climbing, the very best of which is
+constantly attainable along the coast. Owing to the working of the ocean
+waves unsafe pieces are almost certainly removed, and the cliff, at its
+lower parts at any rate, is invariably firm and safe. It is fine sport
+to choose a steep rocky coast at, say, half-tide in spring, and travel
+between high and low water marks as far as may be during the six hours.
+It should be a point of honour not to ascend, but if forced to take to
+the water excellent practice and much amusement is obtainable in this
+way, and the slippery nature of the rock teaches sureness of foot.
+Nailed boots are, of course, indispensable.
+
+The geological formation of Lambay is principally felstone porphyry.
+Some stratified Silurian shales and limestone occur, and there is a
+small sheet of old red sandstone, with conglomerates. The rock is in
+general hard and reliable.
+
+_Howth_ is a promontory with a village about 9 miles from Dublin, for
+the people of which it is a favourite resort. From Balscaddan Bay, on
+the north, to an almost opposite point, Drumleck Point, on the south,
+the east coast is composed of cliffs (200-300 ft.), sometimes abrupt,
+sometimes ending above in grass slopes, very slippery in hot weather,
+which have caused many accidents.
+
+A very interesting scramble, with many nasty traverses over these steep
+grass slopes, may be had round Howth Head. Keeping to the upper edge of
+the rocks, it is necessary to ascend once at Kilrock, but after that the
+whole headland may be climbed at about the medium height of the cliffs.
+On the way a 'needle' or 'stack' will here and there attract attention,
+and perhaps seem worth assaulting. About Piper's Gut a small gully is
+difficult to pass. North of that a saddle rock leads to a pinnacle, but
+it is of rotten rock. The cliffs of this part of Howth are exceedingly
+picturesque, but in some places they are extremely unsafe. From Howth,
+on a very clear day, the Welsh hills, apparently those about
+Penmaenmawr, are visible.
+
+_Ireland's Eye._ A small rocky island, 340 ft. high, about a mile north
+of Howth. At its north-east corner there is a bold columnar rock with a
+tabular summit, partly severed from the island. On its outer face it is
+very sheer, and to gain the summit is a very short but interesting and
+somewhat difficult climb. The return is not so bad, as a sidelong spring
+saves a portion of the worst bit.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Wicklow.=--Wicklow forms the third county in Ireland in which the
+mountains rise to a height of over 3,000 ft., Kerry and Tipperary being
+the other two.
+
+The higher mountains lie in the broad band of granite formation which
+extends in a nearly southerly direction from near Dublin through Wicklow
+and Carlow counties.
+
+Being granite they are as a rule round masses of wide extent, often
+covered with peat bogs; so that although Wicklow contains the most
+continuous extent of elevated (over 1,000 ft.) moorland in Ireland,
+there are few cliffs of any consequence, and no peaks or summits
+presenting upon any side material of interest to the rock-climber.
+Nevertheless there are fine stretches of mountain, affording excellent
+training ground. What cliffs there are occupy the most lovely scenery in
+one of the loveliest Irish counties.
+
+_Powerscourt Waterfall._--The rocks to the left of the fall, which is
+kindly left open to the public by Lord Powerscourt, the popular
+landlord, are nasty, especially in wet or frosty weather. Although not
+much over 250 feet in height several lives have been lost in this
+ascent, chiefly, no doubt, owing to the inexperience of the unfortunate
+visitors. This dangerous though tempting portion has been for several
+years railed off, and is not supposed to be trespassed upon. During the
+severe winter of the present year (February 1895) the waterfall
+presented an Arctic appearance. An interesting account of an ascent of
+it, or rather of the above-mentioned rocks, was sent to an Irish paper
+in that month. The climb was effected by a friend of the writer's (a
+member of the Alpine Club) and another, with ropes and ice axes. The
+cliff was covered with ice and snow. The same party ascended Djonce
+(2,384 ft.), which lies above the waterfall, during a blizzard at a
+temperature of 18 deg., upon the same day. Unhappily a very few days
+afterwards a promising young life was lost upon these very rocks. The
+falls are visited by very large numbers of holiday-makers.
+
+The rocks of Powerscourt, which lie against the Wicklow granites, are
+composed of metamorphic beds of gneiss and schists. Powerscourt is about
+7 miles from Bray.
+
+_Tonelagee Mountain_ ('Back to the Wind' Mountain) (2,694 ft.), a round
+mass of moorland, has on the northern shoulder a crater-like valley,
+containing a tarn, Lough Ouler, and cliffs of schistose, some 400 to 500
+ft. high, descending from near the summit to the margin of the lake. An
+interesting scramble may be made from the Military Road, about a mile
+above Glenmacanass Waterfall, which lies some 6 miles from Glendalough
+Hotel; but a short cut to Lough Ouler is easily found by going up the
+Glendasan valley 3 miles towards Wicklow Gap, and then striking up
+northwards over the shoulder of Tonelagee.
+
+Wicklow county is very poor in highland plants, and these cliffs alone
+possess species of any interest.
+
+Other cliffs in county Wicklow are those of Luggielaw ('Hollow of the
+Hill'), above Lough Tay; the Eagle's Nest, above Lower Lough Bray; a
+small series of bluffs above Lough Nahanagan, and the Prisons of
+Lugnaquilia. In winter the latter, lying high (2,700 to 3,039 ft.),
+afford excellent glissading and cornice work. But, unless the season is
+severe there is too much heavy trudging to be done. All the above
+precipices lie in most attractive scenery, nor must the famous cliff
+above Glendalough, containing St. Kevin's Bed, be omitted. But none of
+them affords desirable scope for climbing practice. The granite
+'Prisons' of Lugnaquilia are attractive in appearance, but all the cliff
+faces are ready to drop to pieces. Mullaghclevaun ('Summit with the
+Cradle' or 'Creel'), 2,783 ft., contains no climbing.
+
+Since Wicklow affords the nearest opportunities to Dublin mountaineers,
+we may mention a few one-day walks from that city which have been
+accomplished by the writer.
+
+Practically the only artery through these mountains is the _Military
+Road_, constructed after the rebellion of 1798 to connect a series of
+now disused barracks. This road, from 'Billy's Bridge' at Upper
+Rathfarnham, about 5 miles from Dublin, is over 35 miles to Aughavanagh.
+It passes through an almost uninhabited country, and much of it lies
+from 1,000 to 1,500 feet above sea level, and it is the pedestrian's
+main anxiety to regain the comparative security of the Military Road
+before night sets in on the wide stretches of tussocky moorland.
+
+To clear the suburbs it is well to take the tram to Terenure (3 miles).
+Terenure; Ballinascorney Gap; Coronation Plantation (3 to 3-1/4 hours);
+Sally Gap; Military Road; Lough Bray (5 hours); back to Terenure (7-1/2
+hours: 34 miles).
+
+Terenure; Lough Ouler; Tonelagee summit (6 hours); Mullaghclevaun summit
+(7-1/2 hours); Ballysmutton (9-1/2 hours); home by Ballinascorney Gap
+(13-1/2 hours: 48 miles). From Bray this walk is about 5 miles shorter.
+
+Bray, over Bray Head, Little Sugarloaf, Big Sugarloaf (1,680 ft.),
+Djonce Mountain (2,384 ft.), and Kippure (2,473 ft.); Lough Bray, by
+Military Road, to Terenure: about 11 hours.
+
+Terenure; Ballinascorney Gap; Seacaun; Kippure; Lough Bray; Terenure
+(about 8 hours).
+
+Terenure; Lough Bray; Kippure (2-1/2 hours); Gravale (2,352 ft.); Duff
+Hill (2,364 ft.--very heavy going); Mullaghclevaun summit (6 hours);
+Tonelagee summit (7-1/2 hours); Lough Ouler; Military Road; Terenure (14
+hours; about 50 miles).
+
+Glendalough; Dublin (7-3/4 hours); Glendasan; Wicklow Gap; summit of
+Tonelagee (11 hours); summit of Mullaghclevaun; Clevaun Lake;
+Ballymullagh old road; across Liffey at Ballysmutton bridge;
+Ballinascorney Gap; Terenure (20 hours, including rests and delays by
+bog; 62 miles).
+
+Terenure; Lough Bray (3 hours); Laragh (7-1/2 hours); Glenmalure;
+Drumgoff Hotel (9 hours 5 minutes--1-1/2 hour's rest); Lugnaquilia
+(3,039 ft., 12-3/4 hours); Tonelagee summit (16-1/4 hours);
+Mullaghclevaun summit (17 hours 40 minutes); Ballysmutton farm (19 hours
+40 minutes--35 min. rest); Ballinascorney Gap; Terenure (23 hours 50
+minutes; 75 miles).
+
+The ascent of Lugnaquilia direct from Glendalough, over Lugduff, round
+the head of Glenmalure, and up by Kelly's Lough is perhaps the finest
+walk in Wicklow.
+
+It is a fine day's walk along the coast from Bray to Arklow, or Bray to
+New Rath Bridge, and thence by the Devil's Glen to Glendalough.
+
+In a wild, uncultivated county, like Wicklow, experience in the use of
+map and compass may be gained by setting a course from Woodenbridge to
+Glendalough, about 12 miles, or from Glendalough to the Scalp or
+Sugarloaf, on the way to Dublin, some 40 miles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Kerry.=--_Brandon_ (3,127 ft.) is of the same formation as that of the
+Reeks, i.e. the lower old red sandstone. The Brandon rocks are, in
+general, hard grits, firm and good to climb.
+
+The accommodation on this promontory of Corkaguiny is no doubt improved
+since the construction of Mr. Balfour's light railway from Tralee to
+Dingle; but Dingle lies 8 miles to the south of Brandon.
+
+I obtained very inferior accommodation at Cloghane, on an inlet at the
+eastern base of the mountain; and cleaner and better, but not so
+convenient, from a coastguard at Ballydavid, to the west of Brandon. For
+the other mountains on the promontory, Castle Gregory is centrally
+situated, but in all these cases (except Dingle) it is highly advisable
+to make previous arrangements and supplement the native fare with a
+hamper.
+
+The coast of the Brandon promontory (which was traversed throughout) is
+often highly precipitous; indeed, from Cloghane on the north to
+Anniscaul on the south the western extremity is almost entirely so, and
+many stiff bits of climbing were accomplished, whether in pursuit of
+scenery, of a direct course, of objects of natural history, or, perhaps,
+more frequently out of what an Irishman would call 'natural divilment.'
+A few years ago no language would have sufficed in abuse of the
+accommodation at Anniscaul, but, as it is now a railway station, no
+doubt this is all changed.
+
+[Illustration: KERRY]
+
+_Brandon Peak and Brandon Summit._--The most enjoyable way to make the
+first acquaintance with these mountains is to ascend Connor Hill, to the
+north-west of Dingle, and follow the ridge by Beenduff, Ballysitteragh,
+Geashane, and Brandon Peak to the summit. The peak is about 400 ft.
+lower than and a little south of Brandon proper. Along this ridge,
+looking north and north-west, there is a fine rocky face before reaching
+the peak. After that point a range of cliffs, several hundred feet in
+altitude, meets the loftier cliffs above Lake Nalacken, looking east. At
+the head of the Feany valley, under Brandon, these cliffs afford an
+interesting descent. The range gives plenty of practice in rock work.
+
+Alpine plants occur mainly on the north and north-east cliffs, and are
+more numerous than on the loftier Reeks.
+
+_Brandon from Cloghane._--From Cloghane the ascent may be made amongst
+fine cliffs and rock-climbing, by making south-east for Lough Cruttia,
+the largest lake under Brandon to its east. It is better to follow the
+road southwards a mile or two, to save uninteresting moorland. From this
+lake it is a short distance to the north-west of Lough Nalacken, and by
+striking in east at once to the cliffs a good climb is obtainable. Lough
+Cruttia is about 700 ft. above sea level. Between the upper lough and
+the cliffs the surface is a desolate extent of polished naked grits,
+strewn with boulders. Crossing this a somewhat dangerous gully leads up
+to the cliffs at about 1,650 ft. The ascent of this is about 300 ft.,
+and a stiff climb and afterwards some 400 ft. of cliffs may be tackled
+in various ways.
+
+There are numerous ledges, and it is the best botanical ground in the
+mountains. The cliffs 'go' splendidly. In a lake south of the two
+mentioned above, locally named Lough Bawn, or the 'White Lake,' lives
+the enormous 'carrabuncle.' It appears fitfully at night, glittering
+like silver in the water with gold and silver and precious stones
+hanging to it galore. It is partly covered with shells, which are lined
+with gold. Upon one occasion several men went to the lake at night and
+dived in oilskins to catch this valuable monster. They did not catch
+him; but pearl mussels, no doubt shed from the carrabuncle, are found in
+the lake.
+
+_Brandon Point and Brandon Head._--From Cloghane it is a fine hard walk
+right round Brandon Point and Brandon Head. At the cliffs of Slieveglass
+(1,050 ft.) a bay of extreme grandeur is opened, bound on three sides by
+lofty precipices and with a depth and sea frontage of about half a mile.
+There is a shepherd's settlement, Arraghglin, on the coast, which has to
+be closely approached. A more bleak habitation can hardly be conceived;
+neither road nor even track leads to it. It is now several hours' work
+to round the sea face of Brandon Head, at altitudes varying from 500 to
+1,200 ft., to Ballydavid. If accommodation has not been arranged for
+here the walk to Dingle will be found most wearisome, and at all trouble
+a car should be provided.
+
+_Macgillicuddy's Reeks_ contain the highest summits in Ireland. They
+extend from the Gap of Dunloe, the eastern extremity, to the Beenbane
+spur near Glencar, about 10 miles west from the Gap. The scenery is
+magnificent. From Lake Auger, in the Gap, the climber ascends at once by
+a series of precipitous bluffs to an elevation of about 2,000 ft. Still
+ascending along a serrated ridge, an elevation of about 3,000 ft. is
+reached above Lough Cummeenapeasta, about 2-1/2 miles west of the Gap of
+Dunloe. For several miles this ridge can be traversed at about the above
+altitude. The ridge frequently becomes a mere knife-edge, and in several
+places descends abruptly and precipitously to some of the numerous tarns
+and cooms nestling 1,000 to 1,500 ft. below. A more perfect mountain
+excursion can hardly be conceived. The ridge carries us to the shoulder
+of Carran Tuohill, and from its summit a northern branch extends to
+Beenkeragh (3,314 ft.) and to Skregmore (2,790 ft.) The axis proper
+continues to Caher (3,200 ft.) and Curraghmore (2,680 ft.) Here we reach
+a gap connecting Cummeenacappul (Horse's Valley) with the Valleys of
+Caragh and Cummeenduff, or the Black Valley. West of it is the Beenbane
+spur, a lower elevation of no interest. The Reeks are chiefly composed
+of hard green and purple grits, and sandstone of old red sandstone age.
+The rocks are generally firm and safe to climb amongst.
+
+There is a comfortable angler's hotel at Glencar, at the western end of
+the Reeks. This is the best adapted for the immediate neighbourhood of
+the higher points, but to reach some of the most interesting climbing it
+is better to distribute one's attentions equally between Killarney and
+Glencar. From Killarney (Railway Hotel) two methods are available--one
+by car to the Gap of Dunloe, or further to the Hag's Glen, up a steep
+mountain road, and from either of these as starting-point some excellent
+rock work is available. From the Gap as starting-point a long day can be
+spent, descending at night to Glencar Hotel. The other method is to boat
+from Killarney (enjoying exquisite scenery) to Lord Brandon's cottage at
+the western extremity of the upper lake. Here begins a long, dull
+ascent, rewarded by the splendid view from the ridge into the heart of
+the Reeks. Or these routes can be reversed.
+
+[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF
+
+KILLARNEY]
+
+Guides swarm here. None of these have the slightest knowledge of
+climbing, and should one be engaged the first deviation from the easiest
+ascent, or departure into gully or ravine, will put a conclusion to his
+services. A wiry, bragging, long-legged shepherd undertook to accompany
+the writer by any ascent he selected from the Hag's Glen to Carran
+Tuohill, to be paid five shillings at the summit. At the foot of the
+first gully, with many heart-felt remonstrances and gesticulations, he
+disappeared, not even thinking it worth while to make an easier ascent.
+On this account it is all the more necessary to be unfailingly provided
+with the Ordnance map and a thoroughly good compass. An aneroid
+barometer is also of great assistance, especially in mist, for a
+knowledge of the altitude often enables a lake or a peak to be
+identified.
+
+_Cumloughra_ (3,100 ft.)--Starting from Glencar Hotel, a few tedious
+miles bring us across a country road to Lake Acoose (507 ft.) Passing
+round the south edge of the lake, a ridge (about 900 ft.) is crossed,
+and ere long Lake Eighter, at the entrance to Cumloughra (1,500 ft.), is
+reached. If we pass along the shores of the lake to the south-western
+edge, a few hundred feet up an open gully brings us to a series of
+cliffs south-west from Cumloughra lake. The rock is sound, and a fine,
+almost vertical ascent of 1,000 ft. may be made, striking the ridge of
+Caher (3,000 ft.) 200 ft. below the summit. It is a severe climb and
+very long, entailing many zigzags. There is no main gully to adhere to,
+and the cliffs are less impracticable than they look. Along the west
+side of the two lakes the cliffs are easier.
+
+_Carran Tuohill_ (3,414 ft.)--Cars from Killarney stop at the Geddagh
+River. Cross it, sweep to the right and back, and then follow the valley
+by a fair path between two lakes to the Devil's Ladder and up it to the
+_col_. The summit is then on the right hand. The writer was once
+fortunate enough to ascend this summit through a cloud layer of about
+1,500 ft. thick, which ceased a short distance below the summit. Above
+was a clear blue sky, and peering out of the dense white, snowlike bed
+of mist Caher and Brandon (the latter 30 miles to the north-west, the
+former not a mile away) alone were visible--a never to be forgotten
+sight, which seemed shut out entirely from earthly considerations.
+Descending _into_ the clouds, the ridge leading southwards towards
+Cummeenoughter, or Devil's Looking Glass (Upper Coom), was taken by
+mistake, and an exceedingly nasty traverse across huge, dangerously
+sloping slabs was necessary in order to regain Carran Tuohill and find
+the Caher ridge.
+
+_Beenkeragh_ (3,100 ft.)--Between Beenkeragh and Skregmore (2,600 ft.)
+there lies an inviting glen, sunk in black precipices. These cliffs are
+to be avoided. At several points an attempt was made to scale them, but
+the rock is most rotten. Near Beenkeragh is a ridge running a little
+west of north for half a mile, and bounding the Devil's Looking Glass
+and the Hag's Glen on their west. This ridge is reached by an easy gully
+known as the _Devil's Ladder_, about 300 ft. below Beenkeragh.
+
+_Devil's Looking Glass_ (Cummeenoughter). This tarn lies at the head of
+the Hag's Glen, at an elevation of 2,500 ft. It is three-parts encircled
+by a fine series of cliffs. At the western corner of this bold girth of
+precipices the finest view in the Reeks may be obtained, looking over
+the Looking Glass, and the lakes below in the Hag's Glen, across heights
+and peaks and valleys to Cummeenapeasta. Excellent climbing is to be had
+here. The rock is a purple sandstone, and one shoulder of an
+inaccessible appearance can be climbed throughout, owing to the firmness
+of grip and the recurrence of suggestive little footholds.
+
+_Lake Auger_ (Gap of Dunloe).--These cliffs terminate upwards in the
+Bull's Mountain at about 1,500 ft. The lake is about 350 ft. above sea
+level. Almost immediately after leaving the lake we come upon a series
+of bluffs and terraces occasionally communicating with one another, but
+more often uniting to form smooth-faced walls. Great care and
+discrimination have to be exercised in selecting ledges that do not
+terminate upon such faces, as there is little hand grip, and turning to
+retrace one's steps is most unpleasantly difficult and dangerous. The
+climbing here is most excellent and exciting, but the writer often felt
+sorely in need of a companion and a rope. It is in such places as these,
+inaccessible to sheep and goats, that hawkweeds occur, and in search of
+these, places were reached which rendered the summit of Bull's Mountain
+(when gained) extremely welcome.
+
+_The Hag's Glen._--Making the ascent from here to the westward, we reach
+another valley between Hag's Glen and Old Finglas River. At about 1,800
+ft. a very black gully leads up to the main ridge from its northern
+side. It is occasionally blocked with huge masses of rock, which render
+detours along the boundary walls necessary, and, as is often the case,
+it becomes very difficult afterwards to regain the gully. This gully is
+a very tough climb. The Hag's teeth (there are two) are conical knobs of
+no difficulty, along a ridge running into the glen.
+
+_Lake Googh_ (1,600 ft.)--This lake lies on the south side of the main
+axis of the Reeks. Above it rises to the northwards a series of coombs,
+or high-lying valleys, which can be traversed by separate and often
+interesting scrambles till the main ridge is reached. This is a very
+interesting ascent. It is often rather a matter of chance whether the
+gully selected will be available to its end for the next coomb level,
+and a retracement of steps will frequently have to be effected. Nothing
+is less pleasing than to have to go back down a gully which it was a
+small triumph to have ascended in safety. This valley is singularly
+dark, damp, and grand; and it is more rich in ferns than any other
+portion of the Reeks.
+
+_Cloon Lake and Lough Reagh._--Although these cliffs are not a portion
+of the Reeks, they are mentioned here as being easily reached from
+Glencar Hotel. They lie south of Lough Reagh, which is separated only by
+a marsh from Lough Cloon, and are a most superbly rugged cluster of
+sugar-loaf peaks huddled together and often separated by sheer
+precipices and inaccessible ravines. Unfortunately they are of easy
+access from the southern or Sneem side. Many gullies of sound rock
+occur. Bad weather on two different visits rendered climbing here an
+unpleasant experience, but enough was seen to enable the writer to
+pronounce the district well worthy of a visit. _Mount Aitchin_ (Whin
+Mount) is the chief summit. Golden eagles bred recently amongst these
+cliffs.
+
+Coming down once from these mountains towards Lough Reagh, facing
+northwards, in a blinding mist, an uncommon sort of descent was
+obtained. Not knowing the nature of the ground, or indeed our
+whereabouts, we struck blindly over a declivity, turning at length to a
+sheer cliff whose termination was invisible. This cliff or series of
+cliffs is broken into ledges, all coated with a long growth of woodrush.
+Glissading and holding on brought us in unexpected safety to the valley
+below. Return would have been impossible by the way of our descent.
+
+Other mountains in the neighbourhood of Killarney are _Mangerton_ (2,756
+ft.); _Toomies_ (2,415 ft.); _Purple Mountain_ (2,739 ft.); _Turc
+Mountain_ (1,764 ft.), and the _Paps_ (2,268 ft.) Of these none afford
+any real climbing. On Mangerton, however, the Horse's Glen is surrounded
+by rocky declivities, and the Devil's Punch Bowl has a slight cliff
+above it. From Killarney by rail to Headfort, and then back over the
+Paps and Mangerton, and through the Horse's Glen, is a fine walk.
+Another fine walk is from the lake, whither one proceeds from Killarney
+by boat, up Toomies Mountain, over Purple Mountain, and Turc Mountain,
+and Mangerton can be included on the way back.
+
+The Eagle's Cliff, above the lake, looks climbable and is reported to
+have been done. The writer, hurrying to the Reeks, always grudged time
+for the attempt.
+
+_Blasquets Islands_ lie off the extreme west of Kerry. They consist
+generally of grits and slates.
+
+Mr. Barrington (_Report on the Flora, &c._) describes the Great Blasquet
+as a ridge about 700 ft. high for most of its length, but for about a
+mile it exceeds 900 ft. The ridge is almost perpendicular in many
+places. 'The cliffs and precipices are very grand, notably the
+north-western face of the Great Blasquet and the north-eastern portion
+of Inishnabro, which latter resembles, when viewed from the sea, a
+cathedral 500 ft. high, the towers, spires, and even doors and windows
+being represented. Inishtooskert has an isolated pinnacle of rock, with
+a great chasm in the cliff near it, scarcely less striking. The Tearaght
+is like a black tooth projecting from the ocean, its sides being rocky,
+desolate, and very barren.' The present writer was prevented from
+reaching these islands by stormy weather.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Co. Cork.=--_Sugarloaf Mountain_ (2,440 ft.)--An isolated, bare,
+conical peak, at the head of the Black Valley (Cummeenduff), the
+southern boundary of the Reeks. Sunshine after rain makes it glitter
+like a snowy peak. The rock is steep and glaciated. On the steepest face
+an interesting ascent may be made--easy, but requiring extreme care.
+
+South of the Kenmare River the hills are of less interest, though the
+beautiful Glengariff lies amongst them.
+
+_Hungry Hill_ (2,251 ft.) presents one precipitous face to the west,
+where a piece of interesting gully work occurs. The writer has reason to
+remember it, owing to the imprisonment of a bull-terrier, the property
+of a companion, in the middle of the climb. After completing the ascent
+the deafening howls of the prisoner made it necessary to work round to
+the base of the gully and help the beloved creature down. An almost
+identical incident occurred in a worse situation in the Poisoned Glen of
+Donegal. A bit of rope should be attached to the neck of any dog that
+follows a rock-climber.
+
+_Gougaun Barra_ ('St. Fin Bar's Rock-Cleft') is a gorge on the road west
+from Macroom to Bantry. The cliffs around rise from a desolate valley to
+meet the slopes of the mountains, 1,700-1,800 ft. high.
+
+On the road Keimaneigh ('the Pass of the Deer') is traversed, a gorge
+through the Sheha hills some 2 miles in length. It is a scene of wild
+beauty, and was the head-quarters of the band under 'Captain' Rock. This
+defile can be visited from Inchigeelagh, a few miles eastwards, where
+there is good fishing and accommodation.
+
+On Gougaun Barra, Otway (_Scenes and Sketches in Ireland_) and Smith
+(_History of Cork)_ have a good deal to say.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Tipperary.=--_The Galtee Mountains_ extend about 15 miles from Caher at
+the eastern to Massy Lodge at the western extremity. The ridge slopes
+gently to the south, but abruptly to the vale of Aherlow on the north.
+
+The formation is Silurian, with overlying beds of old red sandstone
+conglomerate forming the summit of Galtymore (3,018 ft.) The Silurian
+beds form considerable precipices upon the north, almost enclosing
+numerous tarns, from which interesting ascents may be made.
+
+The best head-quarters for the mountains is Tipperary, about 6 miles
+north of the base of the range below its highest point. No doubt,
+however, accommodation could be arranged for at some of the farmhouses
+in the vale of Aherlow. The entire range from Caher to Mitchelstown
+forms a splendid walk. Lough Curra and Lough Muskry are the most
+interesting points to make for, and lie amongst the finest cliffs. Lough
+Diheen is the most remote and barren.
+
+At Lough Curra the cliffs descend 1,000 ft. sheer into the water. These
+cliffs afford attractive but dangerous climbing. They reach to within a
+couple of hundred feet of the highest point, known as Dawson's Table, or
+Galtymore.
+
+Still grander, however, are the cliffs above Lough Muskry. These tower
+to a height of about 1,200 ft. in great terraces and vegetated walls
+above the north and north-east ends of the lake. Numerous clefts,
+ravines, and ledges exist.
+
+Should the climber get pounded here (as not seldom happens) let him
+beware of undue haste. A mouthful of food has a wonderful effect in
+steadying the nerves. The holds here are often sods of dubious security,
+and the Muskry precipices, though they _can_ be traversed in all
+directions, are the severest amongst the Galtees.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+=Co. Waterford.= _Commeragh Mountains._--The Commeragh Mountains may be
+explored from Kilmacthomas on the south, Clonmell on the west, or Caher
+on the north. They form an elevated plateau, bounded on all sides by
+steep and frequently inaccessible precipices, which enclose cooms and
+tarns. The highest point is 2,597 ft., and the rock is for the most part
+sandstone or conglomerate of the old red sandstone period. Slates and
+shales occur on the northern side.
+
+The cliffs can be climbed in many places. As on the Galtees, a few
+miles west, dense masses of a species of woodrush often render the
+holding treacherous. Smith (_History of Waterford_, 1774) says, 'On the
+sides of this chain there are many horrid precipices, and steep
+declivities, with large naked rocks. In the valleys considerable chips,
+or parings, lie in prodigious heaps.'
+
+The most imposing precipices are those enclosing in a magnificent sweep
+the Stilloge Lakes, on the south side of the group; and those above
+Coonshingaun Lough and Crotty's Lough at the eastern end.
+
+This east lake takes its name from one Crotty, an outlaw, who made his
+home in a cave here during the last century. Legends of this worthy
+abound in the district.
+
+The cliffs are often wholly inaccessible without a rope, but a great
+deal of excellent climbing can be effected with no artificial aids. In
+search of rare plants the writer has made several distinct ascents above
+the Stilloges, and also at Coonshingaun, quite apart from the easier
+gully tracks, by which the ordinary visitor gains the top. The mountains
+are singularly picturesque. The verdure-clad cliffs, overhanging the
+deep, rock-bound, lonely tarns, have an effect that is at once rare and
+beautiful.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+Aber, 1
+
+Aberglaslyn, 95
+
+Abergynolwyn, 10
+
+Accidents, 1, 2, 9, 21, 25, 54, 56, 58, 67, 70, 72, 73, 82, 86, 88, 89,
+  90, 91, 108, 126, 139, 176
+
+Achill, 158
+
+Anglesey, 15
+
+Antrim, 131
+
+Aranmore Island, 143
+
+Arans (The), 99
+
+Arenig Fawr, 98
+
+Asko Keeran, 162
+
+
+Bala, 2
+
+Barmouth, 3
+
+Barnesmore Gap, 153
+
+Beddgelert, 3
+
+Beddgelert (Snowdon from), 4
+
+Beenkeragh, 186
+
+Ben Bulben, 155
+
+Benchoona, 165
+
+Benglog, 5
+
+Berwyn Mountains, 94
+
+Bethesda, 6
+
+Bird Rock, 108
+
+Black Ladders, 19
+
+Black Mountains, 13, 126
+
+Blaenau Ffestiniog, 9
+
+Blasquets, 189
+
+Blue Stack, 152
+
+Braichddu, 18, 19
+
+Brandon, 179
+
+Brecon Beacons, 13
+
+Bronyfedw, 14
+
+Bryansford, 169
+
+Bull's Mountain, 187
+
+Bunglas, 145
+
+Burton Port, 143
+
+Bwlch Cwm y Llan, 87
+
+Bwlch Goch, 61
+
+Bwlch y Saethau, 76
+
+
+Caddy of Cwm Glas, 60
+
+Cader Fronwen, 94
+
+Cader Idris, 106
+
+Cambrian Railway, 7, 95
+
+Capel Curig, 6
+
+Carnarvonshire, 16
+
+Carndonagh, 135
+
+Carnedd Dafydd, 17
+
+Carnedd Llewelyn, 23
+
+Carnedd Ugain, 67
+
+Carnedd y Filiast, 25
+
+'Carrabuncle' (The), 181
+
+Carran Tuohill, 185
+
+Carrick Hotel, 145
+
+Carrig-a-Rede, 133
+
+Castell Cidwm, 93
+
+Castell Gwynt, 34
+
+Castles (The), 171
+
+Cefnysgolion Duon, 19
+
+Clare Co., 167
+
+Clew Bay, 160
+
+Cloghane, 179
+
+Clogwyn Aderyn, 69
+
+Clogwyn Penllechen, 69
+
+Clogwyn y Garnedd, 72
+
+Clogwyn y Person, 58
+
+Clogwyndur Arddu, 89
+
+Closs (Death of), 91
+
+Cnicht, 96
+
+Commeragh Mountains, 192
+
+Cork Co., 190
+
+Corris, 10
+
+Cox (Mr.), 88
+
+Craig Ddrwg, 98
+
+Craig Eryri, 54
+
+Craig y Bera, 94
+
+Craig yr Ysfa, 21
+
+Craiglyn Dyfi, 103
+
+Crazy Pinnacle, 64
+
+Crib Goch, 60
+
+Crib y Ddysgl, 66
+
+Croagh Patrick, 160
+
+Croghaun, 158
+
+Cumloughra, 185
+
+Cwm Creigiog, 88
+
+Cwm Dyli, 68
+
+Cwm Glas, 56
+
+Cwm y Llan, 87
+
+Cyfrwy, 113
+
+Cynfael Falls, 9
+
+Cynicht, 96
+
+
+Dawson's Table, 192
+
+Denbighshire, 94
+
+Devil's Kitchen, 28
+
+Devil's Looking Glass, 186
+
+Devil's Punch Bowl, 189
+
+Dinas Bran, 94
+
+Dinas Mawddwy, 7
+
+Dingle, 179
+
+Dismore (Mr.), 58
+
+Dolgelly, 7
+
+Donegal, 134
+
+Down Co., 169
+
+Dublin Co., 171
+
+Dunaff Head, 136
+
+Dunfanaghy, 139
+
+Dungloe, 144
+
+Dunloe (Gap of), 182
+
+
+Eagle's Cliff, 189
+
+Eagle's Nest, 147
+
+Eglwyseg, 94
+
+Elicydu, 25
+
+Elider, 25
+
+Empson (Mr.), 2
+
+Errigal, 140
+
+Esgair Felen, 42
+
+Evans (Mr. Alf.), 82
+
+
+Fair Head, 131
+
+Fanet, 137
+
+Ffestiniog, 9
+
+Foelgoch, 26
+
+Frodsham (Mr. G. H.), 90
+
+
+Gallt y Wenallt, 76
+
+Galtee Mountains, 191
+
+Galway, 164
+
+Gap of Doonmore, 138
+
+Gap of Dunloe, 182
+
+Garnedd Goch, 92
+
+Giant's Causeway, 134
+
+Glaslyn, 69
+
+Glen Car, 183
+
+Glen Gesh, 154
+
+Glen Head, 145
+
+Glenariff, 133
+
+Glenbeagh, 142
+
+Glengad Head, 135
+
+Glengariff, 190
+
+Glyder Fach, 31
+
+Glyder Fawr, 36
+
+Golf, 156
+
+Gougaun Barra, 191
+
+Grey Man's Path, 131
+
+Guides, 183
+
+Gweedore, 141
+
+
+Hag's Glen, 183, 187
+
+Haseler (Mr. Maxwell), 73
+
+Hill names, 161
+
+Homer (Mr. Philip), 54
+
+Horn Head, 138
+
+Howth, 174
+
+Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit, 9
+
+Hungry Hill, 190
+
+
+Inishowen, 135
+
+Ireland's Eye, 174
+
+
+Jackson (Rev. James), 12
+
+
+Keimaneigh, 191
+
+Kendal (Mr. E. G.), 70
+
+Kerry Co., 179
+
+Killarney, 183
+
+Killary, 165
+
+Kingsley (Charles), 12
+
+King's Mountain, 155
+
+Kinlough, 156
+
+
+Lambay, 171
+
+Leenane Inn, 158, 163
+
+Lisdoonvarna, 167
+
+Livesley (Mr.), 56
+
+Llaithnant, 105
+
+Llanberis, 9
+
+Llangynog, 95
+
+Llechog, 91
+
+Lliwedd, 74
+
+Llyndulyn, 24
+
+Lough Eske, 152
+
+Lough Muskry, 192
+
+Lough Salt, 142
+
+Lough Swilly, 186
+
+Lugnaquilia, 176
+
+
+Maamtrasna, 162
+
+Maamturk, 164
+
+Macgillicuddy's Reeks, 182
+
+Machynlleth, 10
+
+MacSwyne's Gun, 143
+
+Maentwrog Road, 15
+
+Malin Head, 135
+
+Mangerton, 189
+
+Marble Arch, 143
+
+Marzials (Miss), 9
+
+Maum Glen, 144
+
+Mayo Co., 156
+
+Melynllyn, 24
+
+Merionethshire, 95
+
+Mitchell (Mr. J.), 86
+
+Moel Eilio, 91
+
+Moel Hebog, 92
+
+Moel Siabod, 52
+
+Moel Sych, 94
+
+Moel Wyn, 96
+
+Moher Cliffs, 167
+
+Montgomeryshire, 94
+
+Mount Aitchin, 188
+
+Mourne Mountains, 169
+
+Muckanaght, 166
+
+Muckish, 140
+
+Mweelrea, 160
+
+Mynydd Mawr, 93
+
+
+Nantlle, 10
+
+Nephin, 156
+
+Newcastle, 169
+
+
+Ogwen Cottage, 5
+
+One Man's Pass, 149
+
+Orme's Head, 94
+
+Owen (Harry), 11
+
+
+Paget (Mr.), 2
+
+Pantylluchfa, 69
+
+Parson's Nose, 58
+
+Payne (Mr.), 1
+
+Pen Helig, 25
+
+Penmaenmawr, 16
+
+Penygroes, 11
+
+Penygwrhyd, 11
+
+Penyroleuwen, 18
+
+'Phouca' (The), 140
+
+Pleaskin Head, 134
+
+Poisoned Glen, 141
+
+Portsalon, 137
+
+Powerscourt, 175
+
+Prisons of Lugnaquilia, 176
+
+Purple Mountain, 189
+
+
+Rhayader, 13
+
+Rhinog Fawr, 97
+
+Rosapenna, 138
+
+Rostrevor, 169
+
+
+St. Kevin's Bed, 177
+
+Slanting Gully, 85
+
+Slieve Donard, 171
+
+Slieve Glas, 182
+
+Slieve League, 145
+
+Smith (Death of), 108
+
+Snowdon, 54
+
+Snowdon Ranger, 13
+
+Southey benighted, 54
+
+Spellick, 171
+
+Stacks, 15
+
+Starr (Rev. H. W.), 89
+
+Stilloge Lakes, 193
+
+Sturrell, 144
+
+
+Tanybwlch, 14
+
+Tonelagee, 176
+
+Tormore, 139, 144
+
+Tory Island, 139
+
+Trigfylchau, 36, 44
+
+Tryfaen, 44
+
+Twelve Bens or Pins, 166
+
+Twll Du, 28
+
+
+Waterford Co., 192
+
+Wicklow Co., 175
+
+Williams (W.), 72
+
+Wills (Mr.), 2
+
+Wilton (Mr. F. R.), 67
+
+
+Y Garn, 28
+
+Y Wyddfa, 54
+
+Yr Elen, 25
+
+
+  PRINTED BY
+  SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
+  LONDON
+
+
+    Transcriber's note:
+
+    _Underscores_ have been used to indicate _italic_ fonts.
+    =Equals signs= have been used to indicate =bold= fonts.
+    The alternate spellings Carnarvonshire and Caernarvonshire both appear
+    in the original. I have left them as written (both are accepted
+    spellings).
+    Inconsistent hyphenation and dashes (e.g. number-ft vs. number ft) are left as written.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Climbing in The British Isles, Vol. II, by
+W. P. Haskett Smith and H. C. Hart
+
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