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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/37122-8.txt b/37122-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b24f3e3 --- /dev/null +++ b/37122-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9287 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hunting in Many Lands, by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hunting in Many Lands + The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club + +Author: Various + +Editor: Theodore Roosevelt + George Bird Grinnell + +Release Date: August 18, 2011 [EBook #37122] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HUNTING IN MANY LANDS *** + + + + +Produced by David Edwards, Linda Hamilton and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + + + + +_Hunting in Many Lands_ + +_The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club_ + + + + +[Illustration: THE CROWN OF CHIEF MOUNTAIN FROM THE SOUTHEAST.] + + + + + Hunting In Many Lands + + =The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club= + + EDITORS + + THEODORE ROOSEVELT + GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL + + [Illustration] + + NEW-YORK + FOREST AND STREAM PUBLISHING COMPANY + 1895 + + + + + Copyright, 1895, by + Forest and Stream Publishing Company + + Forest and Stream Press, + New York, N. Y., U. S. A. + + + + +Contents + + + Page + + Hunting in East Africa 13 + W. A. Chanler. + + To the Gulf of Cortez 55 + George H. Gould. + + A Canadian Moose Hunt 84 + Madison Grant. + + A Hunting Trip in India 107 + Elliott Roosevelt. + + Dog Sledging in the North 123 + D. M. Barringer. + + Wolf-Hunting in Russia 151 + Henry T. Allen. + + A Bear-Hunt in the Sierras 187 + Alden Sampson. + + The Ascent of Chief Mountain 220 + Henry L. Stimson. + + The Cougar 238 + Casper W. Whitney. + + Big Game of Mongolia and Tibet 255 + W. W. Rockhill. + + Hunting in the Cattle Country 278 + Theodore Roosevelt. + + Wolf-Coursing 318 + Roger D. Williams. + + Game Laws 358 + Charles E. Whitehead. + + Protection of the Yellowstone National Park 377 + George S. Anderson. + + * * * * * + + The Yellowstone National Park Protection + Act 403 + + Head-Measurements of the Trophies at + the Madison Square Garden Sportsmen's + Exposition 424 + + National Park Protective Act 433 + + Constitution of the Boone and Crockett + Club 439 + + Officers of the Boone and Crockett Club 442 + + List of Members 443 + + + + +List of Illustrations + + + Crown of Chief Mountain Frontispiece + From the southeast. One-half mile + distant. Photographed by Dr. Walter + B. James. + + Facing page + A Mountain Sheep 55 + Photographed from Life. From Forest and + Stream. + + Rocky Mountain and Polo's Sheep 75 + The figures are drawn to the same scale + and show the difference in the spread + of horns. From Forest and Stream. + + A Moose of the Upper Ottawa 85 + Killed by Madison Grant, October 10, + 1893. + + How our Outfit was Carried 123 + Photographed by D. M. Barringer. + + Outeshai, Russian Barzoi 151 + Winner of the hare-coursing prize at + Colombiagi (near St. Petersburg) two + years in succession. In type, however, + he is faulty. + + Fox-hounds of the Imperial Kennels 177 + The men and dogs formed part of the + hunt described. + + The Chief's Crown from the East 229 + Photographed by Dr. Walter B. James. + Distance, two miles. + + Yaks Grazing 255 + Photographed by Hon. W. W. Rockhill. + + Ailuropus Melanoleucus 263 + From Forest and Stream. + + Elaphurus Davidianus 271 + + The Wolf Throwing Zlooem, the Barzoi 319 + From Leslie's Weekly. + + Yellowstone Park Elk 377 + From Forest and Stream. + + A Hunting Day 395 + From Forest and Stream. + + In Yellowstone Park Snows 413 + From Forest and Stream. + + On the Shore of Yellowstone Lake 419 + From Forest and Stream. + + NOTE.--The mountain sheep's head on the cover is from a photograph + of the head of the big ram killed by Mr. Gould in Lower California, + as described in the article "To the Gulf of Cortez." + + + + +Preface + + +The first volume published by the Boone and Crockett Club, under the +title "American Big Game Hunting," confined itself, as its title +implied, to sport on this continent. In presenting the second volume, a +number of sketches are included written by members who have hunted big +game in other lands. The contributions of those whose names are so well +known in connection with explorations in China and Tibet, and in Africa, +have an exceptional interest for men whose use of the rifle has been +confined entirely to the North American continent. + +During the two years that have elapsed since the appearance of its last +volume, the Boone and Crockett Club has not been idle. The activity of +its members was largely instrumental in securing at last the passage by +Congress of an act to protect the Yellowstone National Park, and to +punish crimes and offenses within its borders, though it may be +questioned whether even their efforts would have had any result had not +the public interest been aroused, and the Congressional conscience +pricked, by the wholesale slaughter of buffalo which took place in the +Park in March, 1894, as elsewhere detailed by Capt. Anderson and the +editors. Besides this, the Club has secured the passage, by the New York +Legislature, of an act incorporating the New York Zoölogical Society, +and a considerable representation of the Club is found in the list of +its officers and managers. Other efforts, made by Boone and Crockett +members in behalf of game and forest protection, have been less +successful, and there is still a wide field for the Club's activities. + +Public sentiment should be aroused on the general question of forest +preservation, and especially in the matter of securing legislation which +will adequately protect the game and the forests of the various forest +reservations already established. Special attention was called to this +point in the earlier volume published by the Club, from which we quote: + + If it was worth while to establish these reservations, it is worth + while to protect them. A general law, providing for the adequate + guarding of all such national possessions, should be enacted by + Congress, and wherever it may be necessary such Federal laws should + be supplemented by laws of the States in which the reservations + lie. The timber and the game ought to be made the absolute property + of the Government, and it should be constituted a punishable + offense to appropriate such property within the limits of the + reservation. The game and timber on a reservation should be + regarded as Government property, just as are the mules and the + cordwood at an army post. If it is a crime to take the latter, it + should be a crime to plunder a forest reservation. + + In these reservations is to be found to-day every species of large + game known to the United States, and the proper protection of the + reservations means the perpetuating in full supply of all the + indigenous mammals. If this care is provided, no species of + American large game need ever become absolutely extinct; and + intelligent effort for game protection may well be directed toward + securing through national legislation the policing of forest + preserves by timber and game wardens. + +A really remarkable phenomenon in American animal life, described in the +paper on the Yellowstone Park Protection Act, is the attitude now +assumed toward mankind by the bears, both grizzly and black, in the +Yellowstone National Park. The preservation of the game in the Park has +unexpectedly resulted in turning a great many of the bears into +scavengers for the hotels within the Park limits. Their tameness and +familiarity are astonishing; they act much more like hogs than beasts of +prey. Naturalists now have a chance of studying their character from an +entirely new standpoint, and under entirely new conditions. It would be +well worth the while of any student of nature to devote an entire +season in the Park simply to study of bear life; never before has such +an opportunity been afforded. + +The incident mentioned on page 421 was witnessed by Mr. W. Hallett +Phillipps and Col. John Hay. Since this incident occurred, one bear has +made a practice of going into the kitchen of the Geyser Hotel, where he +is fed on pies. If given a chance, the bears will eat the pigs that are +kept in pens near the hotels; but they have not shown any tendency to +molest the horses, or to interfere in any way with the human beings +around the hotels. + +These incidents, and the confidence which the elk, deer and other +animals in the Park have come to feel in man, are interesting, for they +show how readily wild creatures may be taught to look upon human beings +as friends. + + THEODORE ROOSEVELT, + GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL. + + NEW YORK, August 1, 1895. + + + + +Hunting in Many Lands + + + + +Hunting in East Africa + + +In the month of July, 1889, I was encamped in the Taveta forest, 250 +miles from the east coast, and at the eastern foot of Mt. Kilimanjaro. I +was accompanied by my servant, George Galvin, an American lad seventeen +years old, and had a following of 130 Zanzibaris. My battery consisted +of the following weapons: one 8-bore smooth, using a cartridge loaded +with 10 drams of powder and a 2-ounce spherical ball; one .577 and one +.450 Express rifle, and one 12-bore Paradox. All these were made by +Messrs. Holland & Holland. My servant carried an old 12-bore rifle made +by Lang (intended to shoot 4-1/2 drams of powder, but whose cartridges +he recklessly loaded with more than 7) and a .45-90 Winchester of the +model of 1886. + +Taveta forest has been often described by pens far abler than mine, so I +will not attempt to do this. It is inhabited by a most friendly tribe of +savages, who at the time of my visit to them possessed sufficient food +to be able to supply the wants of my caravan. I therefore made it a base +at which I could leave the major part of my following, and from which I +could with comfort and safety venture forth on shooting trips, +accompanied by only a few men. + +The first of these excursions was made to the shores of Lake Jipé, six +hours' march from Taveta, for the purpose of shooting hippos. I took +with me my whole battery and thirteen men. This unlucky number perhaps +influenced my fortunes, for I returned to Taveta empty handed and fever +stricken, after a stay on the shores of the lake lasting some days. +However, my experiences were interesting, if only because they were in +great measure the result of ignorance. Up to this time my sporting +experience had dealt only with snipe and turkey shooting in Florida, for +on my road from the coast, the little game seen was too wary to give me +a chance of putting a rifle to my shoulder. + +The shores of Lake Jipé, where I pitched my tent, were quite flat and +separated from the open water of the lake by a wide belt of swamp +growth. I had brought with me, for the purpose of constructing a raft, +several bundles of the stems of a large palm growing in Taveta. These +were dry and as light as cork. In a few hours' time my men constructed a +raft, fifteen feet in length and five feet in width. On trial, it was +found capable of supporting two men, but even with this light load it +sank some inches below the surface of the water. I fastened a deal box +on the forward end as seat, and instructed one of the men, who said he +understood boatman's work, to stand in the stern and punt the craft +along with a pole. During the night my slumbers were constantly +disturbed by the deep, ominous grunting of hippopotami, which, as if to +show their contempt for my prowess, chose a path to their feeding +grounds which led them within a few yards of my camp. The night, though +starlit, was too dark for a shot, so I curbed my impatience till the +morning. + +As most people are aware, the day begins in the tropics as nearly as +possible at 6 o'clock and lasts twelve hours. Two hours before dawn I +was up and fortifying myself against the damp morning air with a good +breakfast of roast chicken, rice and coffee. My men, wrapped in their +thin cotton shirts, lay about the fires on the damp ground, seemingly +unmindful of rheumatism and fever, and only desirous to sleep as long +as possible. I awoke my crew at a little after 5, and he, unassisted, +launched the raft. The swamp grass buoyed it up manfully, so that it +looked as if it disdained to touch the yellow waters of the lake. When +it had been pushed along till the water was found to be two feet deep, I +had myself carried to the raft and seated myself on the box. I was clad +only in a flannel shirt, and carried my .577 with ten rounds of +ammunition. As we slowly started on our way, my men woke up one by one, +and shouted cheering words to us, such as, "Look out for the +crocodiles!" "If master dies, who'll pay us!" These cries, added to the +dismal chill of the air and my boatman's only too apparent dislike of +his job, almost caused me to turn back; but, of course, that was out of +the question. + +Half an hour from the shore found me on the edge of the open water, and, +as if to endorse my undertaking, day began to break. That sunrise! +Opposite me the rough outlines of the Ugucno Mountains, rising several +thousand feet, lost their shadows one by one, and far to the right +towered Mt. Kilimanjaro, nearly four miles high, its snowy rounded top +roseate with the soft light of dawn. But in Africa at least one's +higher sensibilities are dulled by the animal side of his nature, and I +fear I welcomed the sun more for the warmth of its rays than for the +beautiful and fleeting vision it produced. Then the hippos! While the +sun was rising my raft was not at rest, but was being propelled by slow +strong strokes toward the center of the lake, and as the darkness +lessened I saw the surface of the lake dotted here and there by spots, +which soon resolved themselves into the black, box-like heads of my +game. They were to all appearance motionless and appeared quite +unconscious or indifferent to the presence, in their particular domain, +of our strange craft and its burden. + +I approached them steadily, going more slowly as the water grew deeper, +and more time was needed for the pulling out and dipping in of the pole. +When, however, I had reached a position some 150 yards from the nearest +group, five in number, they all with a loud snort faced me. I kept on, +despite the ardent prayer of the boatman, and when within 100 yards, and +upon seeing three of the hippos disappear beneath the surface, I took +careful aim and fired at the nearest of the remaining two. I could see +the splash of my bullet as it skipped harmlessly along the surface of +the lake, and knew I had missed. At once all heads in sight disappeared. +There must have been fifty in view when the sun rose. Presently, one by +one, they reappeared, and this time, as if impelled by curiosity, came +much closer than before. I took aim at one not fifty yards away, and +could hear the thud of the bullet as it struck. I thought, as the hippo +at once disappeared, that it was done for. I had not yet learned that +the brain of these animals is very small, and that the only fatal shot +is under the ear. + +After this shot, as after my first, all heads vanished, but this time I +had to wait much longer ere they ventured to show themselves. When they +did reappear, however, it was too close for comfort. One great head, +blinking its small eyes and holding its little horselike ears at +attention, was not twenty feet away, and another was still closer on my +other side. While hesitating at which to shoot I lost my opportunity, +for they both ducked simultaneously. + +I was riveted to my uncomfortable seat, and I could hear my boatman +murmuring "Allah!" with fright, when slowly, but steadily, I felt the +raft rise under my feet. Instinctively I remembered I had but one .577 +rifle, and hastened, my hands trembling, to fasten it with a loose +rope's end to the raft. My boatman yelled with terror, and at that +fearful cry the raft splashed back in the water and all was again still. +One of the hippos, either with his back or head, must have come in +contact with the bottom of the raft as he rose to the surface. How far +he would have gone had not the negro screamed I do not know, but as it +was it seemed as if we were being held in mid air for many minutes. I +fancy the poor brute was almost as frightened as we were, for he did not +reappear near the raft. + +I now thought discretion the better part of valor, and satisfied myself +with shooting at the animal from a somewhat greater distance. I hit two +more in the head and two--who showed a good foot of their fat bodies +above the water--in the sides. None floated on the surface, legs up, as +I had been led to expect they would do; but the men assured me that they +never come to the surface till sundown, no matter what time of day they +may have been shot. This, needless to state, I afterward found, is not +true. My ammunition being exhausted, and the sun blazing hot, I +returned to camp. I awoke the next day feeling anything but energetic; +nevertheless, I set out to see what game the land held ready for the +hunter, dissatisfied with his experiences on water. The country on the +eastern side of Lake Jipé is almost flat, but is dotted here and there +with low steep gneiss hills, stretching in an indefinite line parallel +to the lake and some three miles distant from it. I made my way toward +these hills. On the way I put up some very small antelope, which ran in +such an irregular manner that they presented no mark to my unskilled +arm. + +We reached the hills, and I climbed one and scanned the horizon with my +glasses. Far to the northwest I spied two black spots in a grassy plain. +I gave the glasses to my gun-bearer and he at once said, "Rhinoceros!" I +had never seen these beasts except in a menagerie, and the mention of +the name brought me to my feet eager to come to a closer acquaintance +with them. The wind blew toward me and the game was too far for the need +of caution, so I walked rapidly in their direction. When I got to within +250 yards, I could quite easily distinguish the appearance of my quarry. +They were lying down and apparently oblivious to my approach--perhaps +asleep. My gun-bearer (a Swahili) now began to show an anxiety to turn +back. This desire is, in many cases, the distinguishing trait of this +race. On we went, but now cautiously and silently. The grass was about +two feet high, so that by crawling on hands and knees, one could conceal +most of his body. But this position is not a pleasant one with a blazing +sun on the back, rough soil under the knees and a thirteen-pound rifle +in the hand. + +We got to within fifty yards. I looked back for the negro with my .577. +He was lying flat on his stomach fifty yards to the rear. I stood up to +beckon him, but he did not move. The rhinos did, and my attention was +recalled to them by hearing loud snorts, and, turning my head, I saw the +two beasts on their feet facing me. I had never shot an 8-bore in my +life before, so it is not to be wondered at that the shock of the recoil +placed me on my back. The animals were off before I could recover my +feet, and my second barrel was not discharged. I ran after them, but the +pace of a rhino is much faster than it looks, and I soon found pursuit +useless. I returned to the place where they had lain, and on looking +about found traces of fresh blood. My gun-bearer, as an explanation for +his behavior, said that rhinos were devils, and were not to be +approached closely. He said I must be possessed of miraculous power, or +they would have charged and slain me. The next day, fever laid me low, +and, though the attack was slight, some days elapsed before I could +muster strength to take me back to Taveta. + +After a few days' rest in camp--strengthened by good food and spurred to +fresh exertion by the barren result of my first effort--I set out again, +accompanied by more men and in a different direction. + +My faith in myself received a pleasant encouragement the day before my +departure. My head man came to me and said trade was at a standstill, +and that the natives could not be induced to bring food to sell. On +asking him why, I learned that the Taveta people had found three dead +hippos in Lake Jipé and one rhino near its shores. Meat--a rare treat to +them, even when not quite fresh--filled their minds and bodies, and they +were proof even against the most tempting beads and the brightest +cloths. I cannot say that I shared my head man's anxiety. The fact that +I had not labored altogether in vain, even though others reaped the +benefit of my efforts, filled me with a certain satisfaction. + +A day's march from Taveta brought me to the banks of an almost stagnant +brook, where I made camp. The country round about was a plain studded +with low hills, here thinly thatched with short grass, and there +shrouded with thick bush, above which every now and then rose a giant +acacia. The morning after my arrival, I set out from camp with my 8-bore +in my hands and hope in my heart. Not 200 yards from my tent, I was +startled by a snort and then by the sight of two rhinos dashing across +my path some fifty yards away. This time I did not succumb to my gun's +recoil, but had the doubtful satisfaction of seeing, from a standing +position, the animals disappear in the bush. I made after them and +found, to my delight, a clear trail of fresh blood. Eagerly pressing on, +I was somewhat suddenly checked in my career by almost stumbling over a +rhino apparently asleep on its side, with its head toward me. Bang! went +the 8-bore and down I went. I was the only creature disturbed by the +shot, as the rhino had been dead some minutes--slain by my first shot; +and my satisfaction was complete when I found the hole made by my +bullet. My men shouted and sang over this, the first fruits of my +expedition, and even at this late day I forgive myself for the feeling +of pride I then experienced. I have a table at home made of a piece of +this animal's hide, and supported in part by one of its horns. + +The next day I made an early start and worked till 4 o'clock P. M., with +no result. Then, being some eight miles from camp, I turned my face +toward home. I had not gone far, and had reached the outskirts of an +almost treeless savanna, when my gun-bearer brought me to a halt by the +word _mbogo_. This I knew meant buffalo. I adjusted my glass and +followed the direction of my man's finger. There, 500 yards away, I saw +a solitary buffalo feeding slowly along toward two low bushes, but on +the further side of them. I did not think what rifle I held (it was a +.450), but dashed forward at once. My gun-bearer was more thoughtful and +brought with him my .577. We actually ran. When within eighty or ninety +yards of the two bushes behind which the beast was now hidden. I +slackened pace and approached more cautiously. My heart was beating and +my hands trembling with the exertion of running when I reached the +nearest bush, and my nerves were not exactly steadied by meeting the +vicious gaze of a large buffalo, who stood not thirty feet on the other +side. My gun-bearer in an instant forced the .577 into my hands, and I +took aim at the shoulder of the brute and fired, without knowing exactly +what I was doing. The smoke cleared, and there, almost in his tracks, +lay my first buffalo. His ignorance of my noisy and careless approach +was apparently accounted for by his great age. His hide was almost +hairless and his horns worn blunt with many encounters. He must have +been quite deaf and almost blind, or his behavior cannot be accounted +for. The noise made by our approach, even with the favorable wind, was +sufficient to frighten any animal, or at least put it on its guard. + +My men, who were dreadfully afraid of big game of all sorts, when they +saw the buffalo lying dead, danced with joy and exultation. They kicked +the dead body and shouted curses at it. Camp was distant a good two +hours' march, and the day was drawing to a close. The hungry howl of the +hyenas warned me that my prize would soon be taken from me were it left +unguarded. So piles of firewood were made and the carcass surrounded by +a low wall of flames. I left three men in charge and set out for camp. +There was but little light and my way lay through bits of forest and +much bush. Our progress was slow, and my watch read 10:30 P. M. before I +reached my tent and bed. + +The following day I set out for a shooting ground distant two days' +march from where I had been camped. Several rivers lay in my path and +two tribes of natives. These natives inhabit thick forest and are in +terror of strangers, as they are continually harassed by their +neighbors. When they saw the smallness of my force, however, they +endeavored to turn me aside, but without success. Quiet and +determination generally win with these people. The rivers gave me more +trouble, as they were deep and swift of current, and my friends, the +natives, had removed all bridges. But none of the streams exceeded +thirty feet in width, and an hour's hard work with our axes always +provided us with a bridge. + +The second day from my former camp brought me to the outskirts of the +forest and the beginning of open country. I had hardly made camp before +three Swahili traders came to me, and after the usual greetings began to +weep in chorus. Their story was a common one. They had set out from +Mombasa with twelve others to trade for slaves and ivory with the +natives who inhabit the slopes of Kilimanjaro. Fortune had favored them, +and after four months they were on their way homeward with eighteen +slaves and five good sized tusks. The first day's journey was just over +when they were attacked by natives, three of their number slain and all +their property stolen. In the darkness they could not distinguish what +natives attacked them; but their suspicions rested on the very tribe +among whom they had spent the four months, and from whom they had +purchased the ivory and slaves. I gave them a little cloth and some +food, and a note to my people at Taveta to help them on their way. Of +course, they were slave traders, and as such ought possibly to have been +beaten from my camp. But it is undoubtedly a fact that Mahomedans look +on slave trading as a perfectly legitimate occupation; and if people are +not breaking their own laws, I cannot see that a stranger should treat +them as brigands and refuse them the least aid when in distress. I know +that my point of view in this matter has few supporters in civilization. + +The next day, after a short march, I pitched my tent on the banks of a +small stream, and then set out to prospect for game. I found nothing, +but that night my slumbers were disturbed by the splashing and grunting +of a herd of buffalo drinking. + +These sounds kept me awake, so that I was enabled to make a very early +start--setting out with four men at 4:45. The natives had assured me +that the buffalo came to drink about midnight, and then fed slowly back +to their favorite sleeping-places in the thick bush, reaching there just +about sunrise. By making such an early start I hoped to come up with my +quarry in the open places on the edge of the thick bush just before +dawn, when the light is sufficiently bright to enable one to see the +foresight of a rifle. Dew falls like rain in this part of the world, and +we had not gone fifty paces in the long grass before we were soaking +wet, and dismally cold to boot. My guide, cheered by the prospect of a +good present, led us confidently along the most intricate paths and +through the thickest bush. The moon overhead, which was in its +fifteenth day, gave excellent light. Every now and then some creature +would dash across our path, or stand snorting fearfully till we had +passed. These were probably waterbuck and bushbuck. Toward half past +five the light of the moon paled before the first glow of dawn, and we +found ourselves on the outskirts of a treeless prairie, dotted here and +there with bushes and covered with short dry grass. Across this plain +lay the bush where my guide assured me the buffalo slept during the day, +and according to him at that moment somewhere between me and this bush +wandered at least 100 buffalo. There was little wind, and what there was +came in gentle puffs against our right cheeks. I made a sharp detour to +the left, walking quickly for some twenty minutes. Then, believing +ourselves to be below the line of the buffalo, and therefore free to +advance in their direction, we did so. + +Just as the sun rose we had traversed the plain and stood at the edge of +what my men called the _nyumba ya mbogo_ (the buffalo's home). We were +too late. Fresh signs everywhere showed that my guide had spoken the +truth. Now I questioned him as to the bush; how thick it was, etc. At +that my men fidgeted uneasily and murmured "Mr. Dawnay." This young +Englishman had been killed by buffalo in the bush but four months +before. However, two of my men volunteered to follow me, so I set out on +the track of the herd. + +This bush in which the buffalo live is not more than ten feet high, is +composed of a network of branches and is covered with shiny green +leaves; it has no thorns. Here and there one will meet with a stunted +acacia, which, as if to show its spite against its more attractive +neighbors, is clothed with nothing but the sharpest thorns. The buffalo, +from constant wandering among the bush, have formed a perfect maze of +paths. These trails are wide enough under foot, but meet just over one's +shoulders, so that it is impossible to maintain an upright position. The +paths run in all directions, and therefore one cannot see far ahead. +Were it not for the fact that here and there--often 200 feet apart, +however--are small open patches, it would be almost useless to enter +such a fastness. These open places lure one on, as from their edges it +is often possible to get a good shot. Once started, we took up the path +which showed the most and freshest spoor, and, stooping low, pressed on +as swiftly and noiselessly as possible. We had not gone far before we +came upon a small opening, from the center of which rose an acacia not +more than eight inches in thickness of trunk and perhaps eighteen feet +high. It was forked at the height of a man's shoulder. I carried the +8-bore, and was glad of an opportunity to rest it in the convenient fork +before me. I had just done so, when crash! snort! bellow! came several +animals (presumably buffalo) in our direction. One gun-bearer literally +flew up the tree against which I rested my rifle; the other, regardless +of consequences, hurled his naked skin against another but smaller tree, +also thorny; both dropped their rifles. I stood sheltered behind eight +inches of acacia wood, with my rifle pointed in front of me and still +resting in the fork of the tree. The noise of the herd approached nearer +and nearer, and my nerves did not assume that steelly quality I had +imagined always resulted from a sudden danger. Fly I could not, and the +only tree climbable was already occupied; so I stood still. + +Just as I looked for the appearance of the beasts in the little opening +in which I stood, the crashing noise separated in two portions--each +passing under cover on either side of the opening. I could see nothing, +but my ears were filled with the noise. The uproar ceased, and I asked +the negro in the tree what had happened. He said, when he first climbed +the tree he could see the bushes in our front move like the waves of the +sea, and then, _Ham del illah_--praise be to God--the buffalo turned on +either side and left our little opening safe. Had they not turned, but +charged straight at us, I fancy I should have had a disagreeable moment. +As it was, I began to understand why buffalo shooting in the bush has +been always considered unsafe, and began to regret that the road back to +the open plain was not a shorter one. We reached it in safety, however, +and, after a short rest, set out up wind. + +I got a hartbeest and an mpallah before noon, and then, satisfied with +my day, returned to camp. By 4 P. M. my men had brought in all the meat, +and soon the little camp was filled with strips of fresh meat hanging on +ropes of twisted bark. The next day we exchanged the meat for flour, +beans, pumpkins and Indian corn. I remained in this camp three more days +and then returned to Taveta. Each one of these days I attempted to get a +shot at buffalo, but never managed it. On one occasion I caught a +glimpse of two of these animals in the open, but they were too wary to +allow me to approach them. + +When I reached Taveta, I found a capital camp had been built during my +absence, and that a food supply had been laid in sufficient for several +weeks. Shortly after my arrival I was startled by the reports of many +rifles, and soon was delighted to grasp the hands of two +compatriots--Dr. Abbott and Mr. Stevens. They had just returned from a +shooting journey in Masai land, and reported game plenty and natives not +troublesome. My intention was then formed to circumnavigate Mt. +Kilimanjaro, pass over the yet untried shooting grounds and then to +return to the coast. + +I left five men in camp at Taveta in charge of most of my goods, and, +taking 118 men with me, set out into Masai land. Even at this late date +(1895) the Masai are reckoned dangerous customers. Up to 1889 but five +European caravans had entered their territory, and all but the +last--that of Dr. Abbott--had reported difficulties with the natives. My +head man, a capital fellow, had had no experience with these people, and +did not look forward with pleasure to making their acquaintance; but he +received orders to prepare for a start with apparent cheerfulness. We +carried with us one ton of beans and dried bananas as food supply. This +was sufficient for a few weeks, but laid me under the necessity of doing +some successful shooting, should I carry out my plan of campaign. Just +on the borders of Masai land live the Useri people, who inhabit the +northeast slopes of Kilimanjaro. We stopped a day or two with them to +increase our food supply, and while the trading was going on I descended +to the plain in search of sport. + +I left camp at dawn and it was not till noon that I saw game. Then I +discovered three rhinos; two together lying down, and one solitary, +nearly 500 yards away from the others. The two lying down were nearest +me, but were apparently unapproachable, owing to absolute lack of cover. +The little plain they had chosen for their nap was as flat as a billiard +table and quite bare of grass. The wind blew steadily from them and +whispered me to try my luck, so I crawled cautiously toward them. When I +got to within 150 yards, one of the beasts rose and sniffed anxiously +about and then lay down again. The rhinoceros is nearly blind when in +the bright sun--at night it can see like an owl. I kept on, and when +within 100 yards rose to my knees and fired one barrel of my .577. The +rhinos leapt to their feet and charged straight at me. "Shall I load the +other barrel or trust to only one?" This thought ran through my mind, +but the speed of the animals' approach gave me no time to reply to it. +My gun-bearer was making excellent time across the plain toward a group +of trees, so I could make no use of the 8-bore. The beasts came on side +by side, increasing their speed and snorting like steam engines as they +ran. They were disagreeably close when I fired my second barrel and rose +to my feet to bolt to one side. As I rose they swerved to the left and +passed not twenty feet from me, apparently blind to my whereabouts. I +must have hit one with my second shot, for they were too close to permit +a miss. Perhaps that shot turned them. Be that as it may, I felt that I +had had a narrow escape. + +When these rhinos had quite disappeared, my faithful gun-bearer +returned, and smilingly congratulated me on what he considered my good +fortune. He then called my attention to the fact that rhinoceros number +three was still in sight, and apparently undisturbed by what had +happened to his friends. Between the beast and me, stretched an open +plain for some 350 yards, then came three or four small trees, and then +from these trees rose a semi-circular hill or rather ridge, on the crest +of which stood the rhino. I made for the trees, and, distrusting my +gun-bearer, took from him the .577 and placed it near one of them. Then, +telling him to retire to a comfortable spot, I advanced with my 8-bore +up the hill toward my game. The soil was soft as powder, so my footsteps +made no noise. Cover, with the exception of a small skeleton bush, but +fifty yards below the rhino, there was none. I reached the bush and +knelt down behind it. The rhino was standing broadside on, motionless +and apparently asleep. I rose and fired, and saw that I had aimed true, +when the animal wheeled round and round in his track. I fired again, and +he then stood still, facing me. I had one cartridge in my pocket and +slipped it in the gun. As I raised the weapon to my shoulder, down the +hill came my enemy. His pace was slow and I could see that he limped. +The impetus given him by the descent kept him going, and his speed +seemed to increase. I fired straight at him and then dropped behind the +bush. He still came on and in my direction; so I leapt to my feet, and, +losing my head, ran straight away in front of him. I should have run to +one side and then up the hill. What was my horror, when pounding away at +a good gait, not more than fifty feet in front of the snorting rhino, to +find myself hurled to the ground, having twisted my ankle. I thought all +was over, when I had the instinct to roll to one side and then scramble +to my feet. The beast passed on. When he reached the bottom of the hill +his pace slackened to a walk, and I returned to where I had left my .577 +and killed him at my leisure. I found the 8-bore bullet had shattered +his off hind leg, and that my second shot had penetrated his lungs. I +had left the few men I had brought with me on a neighboring hill when I +had first caught sight of the rhinos, and now sent for them. Not liking +to waste the meat, I sent to camp for twenty porters to carry it back. I +reached camp that night at 12:30 A. M., feeling quite worn out. + +After a day's rest we marched to Tok-i-Tok, the frontier of Masai land. +This place is at certain seasons of the year the pasture ground of one +of the worst bands of Masai. I found it nearly deserted. The Masai I met +said their brethren were all gone on a war raid, and that this was the +only reason why I was permitted to enter the country. I told them that I +had come for the purpose of sport, and hoped to kill much game in their +country. This, however, did not appear to interest them, as the Masai +never eat the flesh of game. Nor do they hunt any, with the exception of +buffalo, whose hide they use for shields. I told them I was their friend +and hoped for peace; but, on the other hand, was prepared for war should +they attack me. + +From Tok-i-Tok we marched in a leisurely manner to a place whose name +means in English "guinea fowl camp." In this case it was a misnomer, for +we were not so fortunate as to see one of these birds during our stay of +several days. At this place we were visited by some fifty Masai +warriors, who on the receipt of a small present danced and went away. +The water at guinea fowl camp consisted of a spring which rises from the +sandy soil and flows a few hundred yards, and then disappears into the +earth. This is the only drinking-place for several miles, so it is +frequented by large numbers and many varieties of game. At one time I +have seen hartbeest, wildbeest, grantii, mpallah, Thomson's oryx, +giraffes and rhinoceros. We supported the caravan on meat. I used only +the .450 Express; but my servant, George Galvin, who used the +Winchester, did better execution with his weapon than I with mine. + +Here, for the first and last time in my African experiences, we had a +drive. Our camp was pitched on a low escarpment, at the bottom of which, +and some 300 feet away, lay the water. The escarpment ran east and west, +and extended beyond the camp some 500 yards, where it ended abruptly in +a cliff forty or fifty feet high. Some of my men, who were at the end of +the escarpment gathering wood, came running into camp and said that +great numbers of game were coming toward the water. I took my servant +and we ran to the end of the escarpment, where a sight thrilling indeed +to the sportsman met our eyes. First came two or three hundred wildbeest +in a solid mass; then four or five smaller herds, numbering perhaps +forty each, of hartbeest; then two herds, one of mpallah and one of +grantii. There must have been 500 head in the lot. They were approaching +in a slow, hesitating manner, as these antelope always do approach +water, especially when going down wind. + +Our cover was perfect and the wind blowing steadily in our direction. I +decided, knowing that they were making for the water, and to reach it +must pass close under where we lay concealed, to allow a certain number +of them to pass before we opened fire. This plan worked perfectly. The +animals in front slackened pace when they came to within fifty yards of +us, and those behind pressed on and mingled with those in front. The +effect to the eye was charming. The bright tan-colored skins of the +hartbeest shone out in pleasing contrast to the dark gray wildbeest. Had +I not been so young, and filled with youth's thirst for blood, I should +have been a harmless spectator of this beautiful procession. But this +was not to be. On catching sight of the water, the animals quickened +their pace, and in a moment nearly half of the mass had passed our +hiding-place. A silent signal, and the .450 and the Winchester, fired in +quick succession, changed this peaceful scene into one of consternation +and slaughter. Startled out of their senses, the beasts at first halted +in their tracks, and then wheeling, as if at word of command, they +dashed rapidly up wind--those in the rear receiving a second volley as +they galloped by. When the dust cleared away, we saw lying on the +ground below us four animals--two hartbeest and two wildbeest. I am +afraid that many of those who escaped carried away with them proofs of +their temerity and our bad marksmanship. + +Ngiri, our next camp, is a large swamp, surrounded first by masses of +tall cane and then by a beautiful though narrow strip of forest composed +of tall acacias. It was at this place, in the thick bush which stretches +from the swamp almost to the base of Kilimanjaro, that the Hon. Guy +Dawnay, an English sportsman, had met his death by the horns of a +buffalo but four months before. My tent was pitched within twenty paces +of his grave and just under a large acacia, which serves as his +monument, upon whose bark is cut in deep characters the name of the +victim and the date of his mishap. + +Here we made a strong zariba of thorns, as we had heard we should meet a +large force of Masai in this neighborhood. I stopped ten days at Ngiri, +and, with the exception of one adventure hardly worth relating, had no +difficulty with the Masai. Undoubtedly I was very fortunate in finding +the large majority of the Masai warriors, inhabiting the country +through which I passed, absent from their homes. But at the same time I +venture to think that the ferocity of these people has been much +overrated, especially in regard to Europeans; for the force at my +disposal was not numerous enough to overawe them had they been evilly +disposed. + +One morning, after I had been some days at Ngiri, I set out with twenty +men to procure meat for the camp. The sun had not yet risen, and I was +pursuing my way close to the belt of reeds which surrounds the swamp, +when I saw in the dim light a black object standing close to the reeds. +My men said it was a hippo, but as I drew nearer I could distinguish the +outlines of a gigantic buffalo, broadside on and facing from the swamp. +When I got to within what I afterwards found by pacing it off to be 103 +paces, I raised my .577 to my shoulder, and, taking careful aim at the +brute's shoulder, fired. When the smoke cleared away there was nothing +in sight. Knowing the danger of approaching these animals when wounded, +I waited until the sun rose, and then cautiously approached the spot. +The early rays of the sun witnessed the last breathings of one of the +biggest buffaloes ever shot in Africa. Its head is now in the +Smithsonian Institute at Washington, and, according to the measurement +made by Mr. Rowland Ward, Piccadilly, London, it ranks among the first +five heads ever set up by him. + +After sending the head, skin and meat back to camp, I continued my way +along the shore of the swamp. The day had begun well and I hardly hoped +for any further sport, but I was pleasantly disappointed. + +Toward 11 o'clock I entered a tall acacia forest, and had not proceeded +far in it before my steps were arrested by the sight of three elephants, +lying down not 100 yards from me. They got our wind at once, and were up +and off before I could get a shot. I left all my men but one gun-bearer +on the outskirts of the forest and followed upon the trail of the +elephant. I had not gone fifteen minutes before I had traversed the +forest, and entered the thick and almost impenetrable bush beyond it. +And hardly had I forced my way a few paces into this bush, when a sight +met my eyes which made me stop and think. Sixty yards away, his head +towering above the surrounding bush, stood a monstrous tusker. His trunk +was curled over his back in the act of sprinkling dust over his +shoulders. His tusks gleamed white and beautiful. He lowered his head, +and I could but just see the outline of his skull and the tips of his +ears. This time my gun-bearer did not run. The sight of the ivory +stirred in him a feeling, which, in a Swahili, often conquers +fear--cupidity. I raised some dust in my hand and threw it in the air, +to see which way the wind blew. It was favorable. Then beckoning my +gun-bearer, I moved forward at a slight angle, so as to come opposite +the brute's shoulder. I had gone but a few steps when the bush opened +and I got a good sight of his head and shoulder. He was apparently +unconscious of our presence and was lazily flapping his ears against his +sides. Each time he did this, a cloud of dust arose, and a sound like +the tap of a bass drum broke the stillness. I fired my .577 at the outer +edge of his ear while it was lying for an instant against his side. A +crash of bush, then silence, and no elephant in sight. I began to think +that I had been successful, but the sharper senses of the negro enabled +him to know the contrary. His teeth chattered, and for a moment he was +motionless with terror. Then he pointed silently to his left. I stooped +and looked under the bush. Not twenty feet away was a sight which made +me share the feelings of my gun-bearer. The elephant was the picture of +rage; his forelegs stretched out in front of him, his trunk curled high +in the air, and his ears lying back along his neck. I seized my 8-bore +and took aim at his foreward knee, but before I could fire, he was at +us. I jumped to one side and gave him a two-ounce ball in the shoulder, +which apparently decided him on retreat. The bush was so thick that in a +moment he was out of sight. I followed him for some time, but saw no +more of him. His trail mingled with that of a large herd, which, after +remaining together for some time, apparently separated in several +directions. The day was blazing hot, and I was in the midst of a +pathless bush, far away from my twenty men. + +By 2 P. M., I had come up with them again and turned my face toward +camp. On the way thither, I killed two zebras, a waterbuck and a +Thomsonii. By the time the meat was cut up and packed on my men's heads +the sun had set. The moon was magnificently bright and served to light +our road. For one mile our way led across a perfectly level plain. This +plain was covered with a kind of salt as white as snow, and with the +bright moon every object was as easily distinguished as by day. The +fresh meat proved an awkward load for my men, and we frequently were +forced to stop while one or the other re-arranged the mass he carried. +They were very cheery about it, however, and kept shouting to one +another how much they would enjoy the morrow's feast. Their shouts were +answered by the mocking wails of many hyenas, who hovered on our flanks +and rear like a pursuing enemy. I shot two of these beasts, which kept +their friends busy for a while, and enabled us to pursue our way in +peace. + +This white plain reaches nearly to the shores of Ngiri Swamp on the +north, and to the east it is bounded by a wall of densely thick bush. We +had approached to within 400 yards of the point where the line of bush +joins the swamp, when I noticed a small herd of wildbeest walking slowly +toward us, coming from the edge of the swamp. A few moments later, a cry +escaped from my gun-bearer, who grasped my arm and whispered eagerly, +_simba_. This means lion. He pointed to the wall of bush, and near it, +crawling on its belly toward the wildbeest, was the form of a lion. I +knelt down and raised the night sight of my .450, and fired at the +moving form. The white soil and the bright moon actually enabled me to +distinguish the yellow color of its skin. A loud growl answered the +report of my rifle, and I could see the white salt of the plain fly as +the lion ran round and round in a circle, like a kitten after its tail. +I fired my second barrel and the lion disappeared. The wildbeest had +made off at the first shot. I tried, in the eagerness of youth, to +follow the lion in the bush; but soon common sense came to my rescue, +and warned me that in this dark growth the chances were decidedly in +favor of the lion's getting me, and so gave up the chase. Now, if I had +only waited till the great cat had got one of the wildbeest, I feel +pretty sure I should have been able to dispose of it at my leisure. When +I returned to camp, I ungratefully lost sight of the good luck I had +had, and gnashed my teeth at the thought that I had missed bringing home +a lion and an elephant. I was not destined to see a lion again on this +journey, but my annoyance at my ill fortune was often whetted by hearing +them roar. + +However, by good luck and by George's help, I succeeded in securing one +elephant. The story of how this happened shall be the last hunting +adventure recorded in this article. We had left Ngiri and were camped at +the next water, some ten miles to the west. I had been out after +giraffes and had not been unsuccessful, and therefore had reached camp +in high good humor, when George came to me and said things were going +badly in camp--that the men had decided to desert me should I try to +push further on into the country; and that both head men seemed to think +further progress was useless with the men in such temper. I was puzzled +what to do, but wasted no time about making up my mind to do something. +I went into the tent and called the two head men to me. After a little +delay, they came, greeted me solemnly and at a motion from me crouched +on their hams. There is but little use in allowing a negro to state a +grievance, particularly if you know it is an imaginary one. The mere act +of putting their fancied wrongs into words magnifies them in their own +minds, and renders them less likely to listen to reason. My knowledge of +Swahili at this time did not permit me to address them in their own +language, so I spoke to them in English, knowing that they understood at +least a few words of that tongue. I told them that I was determined to +push on; that I knew that porters were like sheep and were perfectly +under the control of the head men; consequently, should anything happen, +I would know on whom to fix the blame. I repeated this several times, +and emphasized it with dreadful threats, then motioned for them to leave +the tent. I cannot say that I passed a comfortable night. Instead of +songs and laughter, an ominous stillness reigned in the camp, and, +though my words had been brave, I knew that I was entirely at the mercy +of the men. + +Before dawn we were under way, keeping a strict watch for any signs of +mutiny. But, though the men were sullen, they showed no signs of turning +back. Our road lay over a wide plain, everywhere covered thickly with +lava, the aspect of which was arid in the extreme. + +No more green buffalo bush, no more acacias, tall and beautiful, but in +their place rose columns of dust, whirled hither and thither by the +vagrant wind. Two of my men had been over this part of the road before, +but they professed to be ignorant of the whereabouts of the next water +place. Any hesitation on my part would have been the signal for a +general retreat, so there was nothing for it but to assume a look of the +utmost indifference, and to assure them calmly that we should find +water. At noon the appearance of the country had not changed. My men, +who had incautiously neglected to fill their water bottles in the +morning, were beginning to show signs of distress. + +Suddenly my gun-bearer, pointing to the left, showed me two herds of +elephants approaching us. The larger herd, composed principally of +bulls, was nearer to us, and probably got our wind; for they at once +turned sharply to their right and increased their pace. The other herd +moved on undisturbed. I halted the caravan, told the men to sit down and +went forward to meet the elephants, with my servant and two gun-bearers. +I carried a .577, my servant carried the old 12-bore by Lang, his +cartridges crammed to the muzzle with powder. We were careful to avoid +giving the elephants our wind, so we advanced parallel to them, but in a +direction opposite to that in which they were going. As they passed us +we crouched, and they seemed unconscious of our presence. They went +about 400 yards past us, and then halted at right angles to the route +they had been pursuing. There were five elephants in this herd--four +large, and one small one, bringing up the rear. Some 60 yards on their +right flank was a small skeleton bush, and, making a slight detour, we +directed our course toward that. The leading animal was the largest, so +I decided to devote our attention to that one. I told George to fire at +the leg and I would try for the heart. We fired simultaneously, George +missing and my shot taking effect altogether too high. + +Two things resulted from the discharge of our rifles: the gun-bearers +bolted with their weapons and the elephants charged toward us in line of +battle. As far as I can calculate, an elephant at full speed moves 100 +yards in about ten seconds, so my readers can judge how much time +elapsed before the elephants were upon us. We fired again. My shot did +no execution, but George, who had remained in a kneeling position, broke +the off foreleg of the leading animal at the knee. It fell, and the +others at once stopped. We then made off, and watched from a little +distance a most interesting sight. + +The condition of the wounded elephant seemed to be known to the others, +for they crowded about her and apparently offered her assistance. She +placed her trunk on the back of one standing in front of her and raised +herself to her feet, assisted by those standing around. They actually +moved her for some distance, but soon got tired of their kindly efforts. +We fired several shots at them, which only had the effect of making two +of the band charge in our direction and then return to their stricken +comrade. Cover there was none, and with our bad marksmanship it would +have been (to say the least) brutal to blaze away at the gallant little +herd. Besides, cries of "water!" "water!" were heard coming from my +thirsty caravan. So there was nothing for it but to leave the elephant, +take the people to water, if we could find it, and then return and put +the wounded animal out of its misery. + +An hour and a half later we reached water, beautiful and clear, welling +up from the side of a small hill. This is called Masimani. On reaching +the water, all signs of discontent among my people vanished, and those +among them who were not Mahomedans, and therefore had no scruples about +eating elephant meat, raised a cheerful cry of _tembo tamu_--elephant +is sweet. I did not need a second hint, but returned, and, finding the +poor elephant deserted by its companions, put it out of its misery. It +was a cow with a fine pair of tusks. The sun was setting, and my men, +knowing that activity was the only means of saving their beloved +elephant meat from hyenas, attacked the body with fury--some with axes, +others with knives and one or two with sword bayonets. It was a terrible +sight, and I was glad to leave them at it and return to camp, well +satisfied with my day's work. + +From Masimani, for the next four days, the road had never been trodden +by even an Arab caravan. I had no idea of the whereabouts of water, nor +had my men; but, having made a success of the first day's march, the men +followed me cheerfully, believing me possessed of magic power and +certain to lead them over a well-watered path. A kind providence did +actually bring us to water each night. The country was so dry that it +was absolutely deserted by the inhabitants, the Masai, and great was the +surprise of the Kibonoto people when we reached there on the fourth day. +They thought that we had dropped from the clouds, and said there could +not have been any water over the road we had just come. These Kibonoto +people had never been visited by an European, but received us kindly. +The people of Kibonoto are the westernmost inhabitants on the slopes of +Kilimanjaro. + +From there to Taveta our road was an easy one, lying through friendly +peoples. After a brief rest at Taveta, I returned to the coast, reaching +Zanzibar a little over six months after I had set out from it. + +Perhaps a word about the climate of the part of the country through +which I passed will not be amiss. Both my servant and myself suffered +from fever, but not to any serious extent. If a sedentary life is +avoided--and this is an easy matter while on a journey--if one avoids +morning dews and evening damps, and protects his head and the back of +his neck from the sun, I do not think the climate of East Africa would +be hurtful to any ordinarily healthy person. For my part, I do not think +either my servant or myself have suffered any permanent ill effects from +our venture; and yet the ages of twenty-one and seventeen are not those +best suited for travels in the tropics. + +_W. A. Chanler._ + + + + +[Illustration: A MOUNTAIN SHEEP.] + +To the Gulf of Cortez + + +About a year ago, my brother, who is a very sagacious physician, advised +me to take the fresh liver of a mountain sheep for certain nervous +symptoms which were troublesome. None of the local druggists could fill +the prescription, and so it was decided that I should seek the materials +in person. With me went my friend J. B., the pearl of companions, and we +began the campaign by outfitting at San Diego, with a view to exploring +the resources of the sister republic in the peninsula of Lower +California. Lower California is very different from Southern California. +The latter is--well, a paradise, or something of that kind, if you +believe the inhabitants, of whom I am an humble fraction. The former is +what you may please to think. + +At San Diego we got a man, a wagon, four mules and the needed provisions +and kitchen--all hired at reasonable rates, except the provisions and +kitchen, which we bought. Then we tried to get a decent map, but were +foiled. The Mexican explorer will find the maps of that country a source +of curious interest. Many of them are large and elaborately mounted on +cloth, spreading to a great distance when unfolded. The political +divisions are marked with a tropical profusion of bright colors, which +is very fit. A similar sense of fitness and beauty leads the designer to +insert mountain ranges, rivers and towns where they best please the eye, +and I have had occasion to consult a map which showed purely ideal +rivers flowing across a region where nature had put the divide of the +highest range in the State. + +My furniture contained a hundred cartridges, a belt I always carry, +given by a friend, with a bear's head on the buckle (a belt which has +held, before I got it, more fatal bullets than any other west of the +Rockies), and my usual rifle. J. B. prepared himself in a similar way, +except the belt. + +Starting south from San Diego, we crossed the line at Tia Juana, and +spent an unhappy day waiting on the custom house officials. They, +however, did their duty in a courteous manner, and we, with a bundle of +stamped papers, went on. The only duties we paid were those levied on +our provisions. The team and wagon were entered free under a +prospector's license for thirty days, and an obliging stableman signed +the necessary bond. + +The main difficulty in traveling in Lower California lies in the fact +that you can get no feed for your animals. From Tia Juana east to +Tecate, where you find half a dozen hovels, there is hardly a house and +not a spear of grass for thirty miles. At Tecate there is a little +nibbling. Thence south for twenty-five miles we went to the Agua +Hechicera, or witching water; thence east twenty-five miles more to +Juarez, always without grass; thence south to the ranch house of the +Hansen ranch, at El Rayo, twenty-five miles more. There, at last, was a +little grass, but after passing that point we camped at Agua Blanca, and +were again without grass for thirty miles to the Trinidad Valley, which +once had a little grass, now eaten clean. Fortunately we were able to +buy hay at Tia Juana, and took some grain. Fortunately, also, we found +some corn for sale at Juarez. So, with constant graining, a little hay +and a supply of grass, either absent or contemptible, we managed to +pull the stock through. + +Besides our four hired mules there was another, belonging to our man, +Oscar, which we towed behind to pack later. The animal was small in +size, but pulled back from 200 pounds to a ton at every step. Its sex +was female, but its name was Lazarus, for the overwhelming necessity of +naming animals of the ass tribe either Lazarus or Balaam tramples on all +distinctions of mere sex. We started, prepared for a possible, though +improbable, season of rain; but we did not count on extreme cold, yet +the first night out the water in our bucket froze, and almost every +night it froze from a mere skin to several inches thick. To give an idea +of the country, I will transcribe from a brief diary a few descriptions. +Starting from Tia Juana, we drove or packed for nearly 200 miles in a +southeasterly direction, until we finally sighted the Gulf and the +mountains of Sonora in the distance. At first our road lay through low +mountains, in valleys abounding in cholla cactus. From Tecate southward, +the country was rolling and clotted with brushwood, until you reach +Juarez. Juarez is an abandoned, or almost abandoned, placer camp. Here, +amid the countless pits of the miners, the piñons begin, and then, after +a short distance, the pine barrens stretch for forty miles. Beyond again +you pass into hills of low brush, and plains covered with sage and +buckweed, until finally you cross a divide into the broad basin of the +Trinidad Valley. This is a depression some twenty miles long and perhaps +five miles wide on the average, with a hot spring and a house at the +southwestern end, walled on the southeast by the grim frowning rampart +of the San Pedro Martir range, and on the other sides by mountains of +lesser height, but equal desolation. + +We had intended at first to strike for the Cocopah range, near the mouth +of the Colorado River, and there do our hunting. Several reasons induced +us to change our plan and make for the Hansen ranch, where deer were +said to be plenty and sheep not distant; so we turned from Tecate +southward, made one dry camp and one camp near Juarez, and on the fifth +day of our journeying reached a long meadow, called the Bajio Largo, on +the Hansen ranch. We turned from the road and followed the narrow +park-like opening for four miles, camping in high pines, with water +near, and enough remnants of grass to amuse the animals. This region of +pine barrens occurs at quite an elevation, and the nights were cold. The +granite core of the country crops out all along in low broken hills, the +intervening mesas consisting of granite sand and gravel, and bearing +beside the pines a good deal of brush. Thickets of manzanita twisted +their blood-colored trunks over the ground, and the tawny stems of the +red-shank covered the country for miles. The red-shank is a lovely +shrub, growing about six or eight feet high, with broom-like foliage of +a yellowish green, possessing great fragrance. If you simply smell the +uncrushed shoots, they give a faint perfume, somewhat suggestive of +violets; and if you crush the leaves you get a more pungent odor, sweet +and a little smoky. Also, the gnarled roots of the red-shank make an +excellent cooking fire, if you can wait a few hours to have them burn to +coals. All things considered, the pine barren country is very +attractive, and if there were grass, water and game, it would be a fine +place for a hunter. + +From our camp at Bajio Largo, J. B. and I went hunting for deer, which +were said to be plentiful. We hunted from early morning till noon, +seeing only one little fellow, about the size of a jack rabbit, scuttle +off in the brush. Then we decided to go home. This, however, turned out +to be a large business. The lofty trees prevented our getting any +extended view, and the stony gulches resembled each other to an annoying +degree. At last even the water seemed to flow the wrong way. So we gave +up the attempt to identify landmarks, and, following our sense of +direction and taking our course from the sun, we finally came again to +the long meadow, and, traveling down that, we came to camp. Here we +violated all rules by shooting at a mark--our excuse was that we had +decided to leave the vicinity without further hunting; and, at all +events, we spoiled a sardine box, to Oscar's great admiration. + +In order to get a fair day's journey out of a fair day, we had to rise +at 4 or 5 o'clock. Oscar once or twice borrowed my watch to wake by, but +the result was only that I had to borrow J. B.'s watch to wake Oscar by; +so I afterwards retained the timepiece, and got up early enough to start +Oscar well on his duties. + +The question of fresh meat had now become important. We left Bajio Largo +and drove to Hansen's Laguna, a shallow pond over a mile long, much +haunted by ducks. Here we made a bad mistake, driving six or eight miles +into the mountains, only to reach nowhere and be forced to retrace our +steps. Night, however, found us at El Rayo, the Hansen ranch house, and, +as it turned out, the real base of our hunting campaign. The Hansen +ranch is an extensive tract, named after an old Swede, who brought a few +cattle into the country years ago. The cattle multiplied exceedingly, to +the number, indeed, of several thousand, and can be seen at long range +by the passer-by. They are very wild and gaunt at present, and will +prance off among the rocks at a surprising rate before a man can get +within 200 yards of them. Ex-Governor Ryerson now owns these cattle, and +his major-domo, Don Manuel Murillo, a fine gray-haired veteran, learning +that I had known the Governor, gave me much friendly advice, and sent +his son to guide us well on the road to the Trinidad Valley and the +sheep land. He also provided us with potatoes and fresh meat, so that we +lived fatly thenceforth. + +Our track lay past an abandoned saw-mill, built by the International +Company. Thence we were to go to Agua Blanca, the last water to be had +on the road; for the next thirty miles are dry. The saw-mill was built +to supply timber to the mining town of Alamo, some twenty-five miles +south. The camp is now in an expiring state and needs no timber, but is +said to shelter some rough and violent men. The road from the mill was +deep in sand, and our pace was slow. The darkness was coming cold and +fast when we finally drove on to the water and halted to camp. + +Two men were there before us, with a saddle-horse each, and no other +apparent equipment. When we arrived, the men were watering their +animals, and at once turned their backs, so as not to be recognized. +Then they retired to the brush. We supped and staked out the mules, and +then sent Oscar to look up our neighbors. Oscar went and shouted, but +got no answer, and could find no men. We thought that our mules were in +some danger, and J. B., who is a yachtsman, proposed to keep anchor +watch. So Oscar remained awake till midnight, when he awoke me and +retired freezing, saying that he had seen the enemy prowling around. I +took my gun and visited the mules in rotation till 2:30. Then J. B. +awoke, chattering with cold, but determined, and kept faithful guard +until 5, when we began our day with a water-bucket frozen solid. + +All our property remained safe, and a distant fire twinkling in the +brush showed that our neighbors were still there. After breakfast Oscar +again sought the hostile camp, and finally found a scared and innocent +Frenchman, who cried out, on recognizing his visitor: + +"Holy Mary! I took you for American robbers from the line, and I have +lain awake all night, watching my horses." + +From Agua Blanca we drove across the Santa Catarina ranch, for the most +part plain and mesa, covered with greasewood and buckbrush. This latter +shrub looks much like sage, except that its leaves are of a yellow-green +instead of a blue-green. It is said to furnish the chief nutrition for +stock on several great ranches. Certainly there was no visible grass, +but buckbrush can hardly be fattening. Toward night, we crossed the pass +into the Trinidad Valley and drove down a grade not steep only, but +sidelong, where the wagons both went tobogganing down and slid rapidly +toward the gulch. The mules held well, however, and before dark we were +camped near the hot spring at the house of Alvarez. + +Our friend, Don Manuel Murillo, had recommended us both to Alvarez and +to his sister, Señora Paula, but both of these were absent. Don Manuel +had also urged us to get the Indian Anastasio for a guide. + +"For heaven's sake," he said, "don't venture without a guide. You may +perish from thirst, as others have done before you." + +We tried at first to hire burros and let our mules rest, but the Indian +who owned the burros stated that his terms were "one burro, one day, one +dollar"--an impudent attempt at robbery, which we resented. + +We interviewed Anastasio, however, who said he would start at any +moment; and, leaving Oscar to guard the wagon, we packed two mules, +saddled two more for J. B. and myself, and, giving Anastasio the +tow-rope of a pack-mule, we started after him. Anastasio was the most +interesting figure of the trip, and I must be pardoned if I go into some +detail about him. He spoke some Spanish and understood a good deal. When +he did not understand, he never stated that fact, but either assumed a +stony look or answered at cross-purposes; so that we did not get to know +a great deal about each other for some time. + +He had, too, a lingering remnant of the distrust of horses and mules +that his ancestors must have felt in Spanish times, and when his +pack-mule got a stone in her hoof, he observed it with anxiety from a +distance, but could not summon resolution to meddle with so serious a +matter. + +Moreover his measure of distance was primitive. I would ask, for +instance, how many miles it was to our next stop. He might say three +miles for an all-day journey of six times that length, or he might tell +you that we were nine miles from a spot which we reached in half an +hour. + +I then substituted leagues for miles, thinking that the Mexican usage +would be more familiar to him; but at last Anastasio said, rather +impatiently, that all this business of leagues and miles was rather +confusing and outside of his experience. We would reach the next water +shortly before sunset, and that was all the calculation he was +accustomed to, and quite close enough. + +Aside from his knowledge of Spanish, Anastasio was indeed a fine +representative of the best of the stone age, and as we journeyed on, one +got an excellent idea of the life of the savage here in early times. +About 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we reached the only water spot on the +trail. Anastasio parted some withered reeds, and, looking earnestly, +said, "Dry." A short distance further up, he repeated the word, and yet +again, till, at his fourth attempt, he said, "Very little," and we +camped. By scraping away the mud and grass, we got a small gravelly +hole, and dipped out the slowly seeping water, a cup at a time. We thus +managed to give each of the mules a little in a pan, and to get a +canteen full for cooking. + +Then I noticed Anastasio gathering wood, which I thought at first was +for general use, but I found it was a private pile, to be used, so to +speak, for bedding. Anastasio did not take the ax to secure his wood, +but smashed off mesquite branches with a rock or pulled out some old +root. He quite despised piñon and juniper logs, saying they gave no +heat--meaning, probably, that they burned out too soon. + +We turned in soon after supper, and the night was cold. Anastasio said +he feared snow. The reason for his fear was soon evident. My bed was +about twenty feet from Anastasio's, and during the night I would turn +and watch him. He carried but one small blanket of about the texture of +a gunny sack. He lighted a long smouldering fire, stripped himself +naked, except a breech-clout, and, with his back to the coals and his +front protected by his gauzy blanket, he slept until the cold roused +him, when he put on more wood and slept again. I offered him four pairs +of warm horse blankets to sleep in, but that was not the thing. He said +that he needed to have the fire strike him in the small of the back, and +that he slept in that way always. So throughout the night, in my wakeful +moments, I saw the light reflected from his mahogany person. Evidently +snow or cold rain would be disastrous to people who need a fire all +night; for, with no covering against the cold and with fires +extinguished by storm, they might easily freeze to death. + +We were packed and marching at 7:30 next morning, and to those who know +the inwardness of packing in winter, that statement means a good deal. +It means, for instance, that J. B. got up, at my summons, long before +dawn and cooked a splendid breakfast, and that the mules were caught and +grained and saddled, and the packs made and lashed, by the earliest +sun. + +J. B. was a wonder. He seemed to enjoy giving his fellow mortals the +best breakfasts and suppers--for we never had any midday meals--that our +supplies could furnish. Always rising at the first call, in the dark, +sometimes with an accompaniment of snow or rain, he managed the +commissariat to perfection. + +I in my humble way packed and saddled and did other necessary work, and +Anastasio regarded us with benevolent curiosity, though always ready to +get wood or water or mules when we asked him to do so. + +We were now approaching the true desert. This term is not restricted to +the broad level sand wastes along the Gulf, but includes the arid and +waterless mountains adjacent, and this must be borne in mind when the +Mexicans tell you that sheep are to be found in the desert. + +We passed the last of the brushy hills, and, crossing a small divide, +came over slopes of volcanic cinders to a little water spot with dwarf +willows and grass. This was our hunting camp. The country through which +our route had lain heretofore was altogether granitic, though one could +see hills apparently of stratified material in the distance. Toward the +desert, we met beds of conglomerate and trachyte, and mountains covered +with slide-rock, ringing flint-like clinkers from some great volcanic +furnace. But doubtless some accurate and industrious German has +described all this, in a work on the geology of the peninsula, and to +that valuable treatise I will refer you for further facts. + +The vegetation had somewhat changed. There were more cactuses, +particularly the fleshy kind called venaga, though I noticed with +surprise the absence of the great fruit-bearing cactuses, the saguarro +and pitaya, all along our route. The Spanish daggers were very numerous, +as were also mescal plants, both of these forming veritable thickets in +places. + +The venaga cactus is similar to the bisnaga, found in other parts of +Mexico, except in the disposition and curvature of the thorns. They are +stumpy plants, growing from a foot to three feet or so in height, and a +foot or more in diameter, like a thickset post. Those of us who +delighted in Mayne Reid's "Boy Hunters" will remember how the +adventurous young men saved themselves from dying of thirst by laying +open these succulent cactuses with their long hunting knives and +drinking the abundant juices. I have often and faithfully tried to +perform the same feat, out of reverence for my heroes, but failed to +find anything juicier than, say, a raw turnip--by no means satisfying as +a drink. The venagas are found on the mountains where sheep haunt, with +their hard prickly rinds broken and the interior hollowed out, and +Anastasio said that the sheep do this by knocking holes in the cactus +with their horns and then eating the inside. + +This cactus country makes the third variety of wilderness encountered in +the peninsula. There are four: first, and best, the pine barrens; +second, the brushy hills and plains, covered with sage, greasewood and +buckweed; third, this spike-bearing volcanic region; and fourth, the +appalling desolation of the acknowledged desert. + +The moment we had unloaded and watered our animals, Anastasio and I set +out to look for deer. Anastasio wore the spotted and tattered remnant of +a frock-coat, once green, given him by an Englishman, of whom I shall +say more later. He had guarachis, or sandals, on his feet, bare legs, a +breech-clout, and on his head a reddish bandanna handkerchief in the +last stages of decay; and as he peered over some rock, glaring long and +earnestly in search of game, he reminded one of those lean and wolfish +Apaches that Remington draws in a way so dramatic and so full of grim +significance. + +Anastasio was fifty-one years old and had no upper incisors, but the way +he flung his gaunt leathern shanks over those mountains of volcanic +clinkers, armed with the poisoned bayonets of myriads of mescal, cactus +and Spanish dagger, was astonishing. + +I told him that I was not racing and that he would scare the game. In +fact, he did start one little fellow, but he said he always saw the game +first, and for this day I was quite powerless to hold him in; so I +decided to return to camp before dark. This disgusted Anastasio greatly. +"In this way we shall never kill," said he. "We are going to suffer from +hunger." I assured him that we had plentiful supplies, but he had come +for meat. Unbounded meat had been the chief incentive for his trip, and +hungry he was determined to be. + +The next day J. B. set out early with the red man. I arranged camp, and +two or three hours later took what I supposed was a different direction, +but soon encountered the pair returning. J. B. had a painful knee, and +Anastasio had started his racing tactics and kept them up until J. B. +was quite lame. + +The Indian reported that he had seen sheep. J. B. had used the glass +without finding them, and then Anastasio had captured it and looked +through the wrong end, nodding and saying he could count five, very big. +This, I am sorry to say, was false and affected on Anastasio's part, and +J. B. was skeptical about the sheep altogether; but I knew how hard it +was to find distant game, when you don't know exactly how it should +appear. To reach the supposed sheep, the mountain must be climbed and +the crest turned, for the wind permitted no other course. J. B. did not +feel up to the task, and I directed him to camp. Anastasio and I climbed +for about four hours, and reached a position whence his sheep would be +visible. He was now discontented because J. B. had not lent him his gun. +No request had been made for the gun, to be sure, but I confess that a +request would have met with my earnest opposition in any event. +Evidently Anastasio's expectations of fresh meat were now so dim as to +cast serious shadows on my skill as a hunter; but, resigning himself to +the inevitable, he crawled to the summit of the ridge for a view. He +stared long and said he could make out one ewe lying down under a +juniper. I tried the glass. He was right. His unaided sight seemed about +equal in definition to my field-glass. On this occasion he declined to +use the glass, even with some appearance of disgust. We could get no +nearer unseen, and, though the distance was very great, I decided to +risk a shot. + +I fired, in fact, two or three shots at the ewe, alarming her greatly, +when from beneath a cliff which lay below us a band streamed out. Two +big rams started off to the right. Anastasio and I ran down a bit, and I +tried a long shot at the leading ram. The distance was great, and the +run had pumped me a little. I missed. The second ram was still larger. +He stopped a moment at 150 yards and I dropped him. Anastasio grunted +satisfaction. I swung to the left, where the rest of the band was +journeying, sighted at the shoulder of a young ram and fired. The ball +passed through my intended victim, dropping him, and entered the eye +of a yearling ram who stood behind, thus killing two rams at one shot--a +most unusual accident. + +[Illustration: ROCKY MOUNTAIN AND POLO'S SHEEP, DRAWN TO SAME SCALE.] + +The rest of the band were now quite distant, and, though I fired several +shots, at Anastasio's desire--he said he wanted a fat ewe--none took +effect. + +I cleaned the sheep and skinned out the big head. Anastasio took one +small ram entire on his back, supporting it by a rope passed over the +top of his head, and started down with it, while I followed after with +the big horns. It was 1 o'clock. The head might have weighed thirty-five +pounds fresh. It grew to weigh 1,500 pounds before dark. Stumbling down +through the slide-rock, with legs full of venomous prickers, I passed +below camp without noticing it, and was well on the other side, when I +thought I had gone about far enough, and shouted. J. B.'s voice answered +across a small hill, and I discovered that he had never reached camp at +all, but had found a water spot, and wisely decided not to leave it +without good reason. + +I scouted a bit to the west, but found unfamiliar country, and, as the +sun had set, we were seemingly about to stay by that water all night, +when I turned around and saw a pale column of smoke rising above the +crest of the ridge against the evening sky. + +At once we marched around the ridge, and, as we rose over the divide, we +saw the whole hillside flaming with signal fires. Our dear old Anastasio +had become alarmed and set fire to fifteen or twenty dead mescals in +different places to guide us home. God bless a good Indian! + +With vast content we prepared and ate a luxurious supper. Anastasio, +however, fearing that he might be hungry in the night, impaled all the +ribs of one side of the ram on a pole and planted it in a slanting +position over the fire. Thus he was enabled to put in his time during +his wakeful moments, and face the prospect of a remote breakfast without +discouragement. + +The next day, I spent the morning in washing, resting, and cutting +spikes out of my legs. Anastasio packed in the second small ram, and ate +ribs and slept. Then, in the afternoon, we got the rest of the big +fellow down. Anastasio, to make his load lighter, smashed off the shanks +with a stone, although he carried a knife in his belt--a striking trick +of heredity. + +And then we talked. "The Trinidad Valley is not my country," said +Anastasio; "this is my country. Yonder, under that red rock on the +mountain side, about five miles away, there is a spring in the gulch on +the edge of the desert. I was born there, and lived there twenty years +with my father's family. Here where your camp is"--about twenty feet +square of slide-rock level enough to stand on--"we sowed crops. We +scraped a hole between the stones with our hands, put in squash seeds, +watered them by carrying water from the spring in our hands and raised +several hills." + +So he went on, not in so connected a way, but showing, bit by bit, his +manner of life. His tribe, which he called the Kil-ee-ou, must have been +very restricted in numbers at best. His territory was a few leagues of +desert, or almost desert, mountains, every yard of which he knew by +heart, while just over the ridge dwelt the Cocopahs, his mortal enemies. +Sometimes a score of men armed with bows would start a tribal hunt for +deer, though the sheep were beyond their means of attack. Sometimes they +journeyed a few leagues to the Gulf to eat mussels. We could see the +great blue sheet and the leagues of salt incrustations glimmering white +on the hither side, and at one spot on the horizon the blue peak of some +Sonora mountain rose out of the seeming ocean. + +But a few deer and mussels and a half dozen hills of squashes could not +fill the abyss of the Indian appetite. The stand-by was roasted mescal. +These plants grow in great numbers in the country adjoining the desert, +and at every season there are some just right for roasting. The Indians +selected these and cooked them for two or three days in a hole in the +ground, by a process called tatema, similar in principle to a clam-bake. +This roasting converts the starchy leaves and heart into a sugary mass, +so that the resulting food is something like a sweet fibrous beet. The +Indian's life really lay in gathering and roasting mescal. And when a +storm prevented the necessary fires, the tribe passed days, often many +days, without food. + +So much for Anastasio's early life. A year ago, he told us, he went +hunting with two Americans. One of them came from under the earth, where +there were six months of night, and had passed two seas and been a +month on the train. We supposed, from this, that Anastasio had served as +guide to an Englishman, whose home he described at the Antipodes. The +six months of night were, perhaps, represented by the London fogs, and, +if he passed a month on the train, he must have come by the Southern +Pacific. The Englishman had presented Anastasio with the very +undesirable gaberdine I have before described. Anastasio said that the +Englishman shot quail in the head every time with his rifle, but on +meeting a band of eleven sheep he fired nine shots without hitting. +Anastasio said he trembled, but I incline to think that the Indian had +run him out of breath. Finally the Englishman secured two ewes and a +lamb, after three weeks of hunting. + +Look at my fortune! A single day on the mountain, and three rams to show +for it; one with horns that are an abiding splendor--sixteen inches +around the base and forty-two inches on the outer sweep. + +I thought at first that the horns made more than one complete spiral, +but, on leveling them carefully, I saw that the entire curve would not +be complete without the points, which were smashed off. In this +connection it is only fair to consider that I carried my lucky bear's +head belt, and invariably sacrificed to the Sun, as several ragged +garments, hung on spikes and branches, may still testify. + +The weather threatened storm. J. B.'s leg would not permit him to hunt. +Anastasio was full of meat, eating roasted ribs night and day, beside +his regular meals, and we decided to retreat. + +I noticed that the sheep hides had little of the under wool that the +Northern sheep have in December, nor were the animals fat, though the +flesh was sweet and tender, and the livers had their desired medicinal +effect. + +Anastasio said it was customary to hunt in summer, when the sheep were +fat, and were compelled to resort to the water holes. Aside from the +meanness of taking advantage of the animals' necessities, the summer is +a bad season for hunting, both because the flesh is rank and spoils +quickly, and the heat and insects are intolerable. + +We packed our mules in a gentle rain, and Anastasio made a great bundle +of rejected meat for his own use. To get rope, he slightly roasted the +leaves of the Spanish dagger, tore the hot spikes in shreds with his +tough fingers and knotted the fragments into a strong, pliable cord. + +In two days we were again in the Trinidad Valley, and in two days +more--one of them passed in facing a cold, driving storm, of great +violence--we had reached our old friend, Don Manuel Murillo, at El Rayo. +Here we lay over a day to rest the animals, and Don Manuel again played +the part of a good angel in letting us have some hay. + +I tried a shot at a duck on a little pond. The shot was a costly +success. The duck died, but I had to wade for his remains through many +yards of frozen mud and dirty water. The duck, though lean, was tender. +My last hunt was for deer at El Rayo, with a boy of Don Manuel's for +guide. Toward noon I saw two deer and shot them. I do not at present +know just how to class them. The tail is that of the ordinary mule-deer, +or blacktail, of Colorado and Montana, but there is no white patch on +the rump. + +The most of the deer in Lower, as well as in Southern, California have +little white on their rumps, as in these specimens, but the upper +surface of the tail is generally dark. The majority of the animals also +are smaller than the typical mule-deer of our Northern States, but +whether the differences between the two are great enough and constant +enough to form a defined variety, some more competent naturalist must +decide. Pending authoritative decision, I will submit, as a working +theory of a purely amateur kind, this suggestion: that the Mexicans are +right in saying that the northern zone of their country contains two +varieties of deer--one a large animal, called "buro," identical with our +Northern mule-deer; the other called "venado," a mule-deer too, but only +a cousin of the "buro," much smaller, and with the white parts of the +mask, throat, rump and tail either absent or much diminished in extent. + +Our journey home was accomplished in the worst weather. Snow, cold rain, +gales of surprising fury, made life a struggle; but we jumped at every +chance for progress, and finally crossed the line twenty-five days after +we had left it--tired, ragged, dirty, but with our mules alive and our +hearts contented. + +Our experience of the peninsula indicated that there were few +inhabitants of any kind, brute or human. We saw hardly a dozen rabbits +on the trip. There were some quail and many ducks, but the latter were +visitors only. Deer were very scarce, and there were but a few half-wild +cattle visible. + +As for human beings, there was not an inhabited house on our road from +Alvarez Place, in the Trinidad Valley, to El Rayo, a distance of +fifty-five miles; nor from El Rayo to Juarez, twenty-five miles more. +Indeed, except for the few hovels at Tecate, the houses for the rest of +the way were hardly more numerous. And yet we had a strong impression +that the country had nearly all the population it could support. Given a +moderately dry year, and the part of Lower California which we visited +can be thought fit only for bogus land companies and goose-egg mines; +or, yes, it might be an ideal spot for a health resort or a penal +colony. + +_George H. Gould._ + + + + +A Canadian Moose Hunt + + +In October, 1893, I made an extended trip with my brother into the +country around the head waters of the Ottawa. Our original plan, to push +northward toward the "Height of Land" after caribou, was frustrated by +high winds, which made travel on the large lakes slow and dangerous. The +crossing of a ten-mile lake, which could be accomplished in a morning if +calm, would consume several days with a high wind blowing, necessitating +a tedious coasting on the windward shore. After much delay from this +cause and from heavy rains, which made hunting difficult in the extreme, +we at length abandoned the hope of caribou on this trip, and turned +southward from Birch Lake into Lake Kwingwishe--the Indian name for meat +bird. This was about the northern limit of moose, although a few are +found beyond it. + +Our repeated failures to see this great deer would not form interesting +reading, although, if recorded, they would, no doubt, bring to the +mind of many a moose hunter memories of times when the hunt was hard and +the result--a blank. It is my purpose in this article to merely sketch +one or two instances of this sort, which, in contrast to days of +unrewarded watching, were red-lettered with excitement. I only give the +episodes because too often we relate our victories alone, and missed +shots and barren tramps are consigned to ill-merited oblivion, however +real they were. + +[Illustration: A MOOSE OF THE UPPER OTTAWA.] + +After hunting the country around Lake Kwingwishe, we at length camped on +a small pond near the east shore. Here we watched and called every night +and morning; then we visited neighboring swamps and ponds, carrying a +canoe through the forest by compass. It was always the same--wet and +hungry, tired out with tramping through tamarack swamps, we would call +half the night, sometimes startled with false alarms from hoot owl or +loon, and then lie down in a rain-soaked tent without a fire, for smoke +always scares a moose. The first streaks of dawn came, and again we were +up and anxiously watching the shore for the appearance of the monster we +were after. There were his tracks a few hours old but we could never +catch him making them. It was too early in the season to trail them +down, as the bulls were traveling continuously in impenetrable swamps, +and our best chance was to run across them on the waterways. + +One morning, on a pond we had named "Little Trout Pond," because it +looked as though it should have trout in it, but did not; we awoke, +after some specially exhausting and disappointing "back pond" +expeditions, and found Chabot, one of our two Indian guides, gone. Late +in the afternoon he returned. He had been seeing the country, and had +found a swamp about three miles off full of fresh tracks, "so big +moose," and he described tracks such as must have belonged to the Irish +elk. Soon after sunrise on the following day we were there. Cold lunch, +no dinner and lots of beautiful fresh tracks, one the largest I ever +saw. + +We watched motionless all day, saw the sun cross the zenith and sink out +of sight, saw the twilight fade away and the moon come up. About +midnight we went back to camp, through the woods. Night travel in a +forest that you can scarcely get through in the daytime is beyond +description. + +"So good swamp," said Chabot sadly that night as he crawled into his +tent. + +The next day we pitched a rough camp on a hogback between two barren +plains, about five miles from our main camp. It rained hard as soon as +we got the tent up, and we watched a runway at the foot of the hill +until dark and then turned in. + +The next morning it rained so heavily that we lay in our tent, four of +us, until about 11 A. M., when it slacked up a little. My diary says, +"No fire and little breakfast." Before this "little breakfast" was +finished we heard a moose call close by. Seizing our rifles, we started +with Chabot to stalk him. The brevity of a diary is sometimes eloquent. +Mine says, "Walked from 12 M. to 4.30 P. M. through the bush. Didn't +hear that moose again." + +The latter hour found us back in camp to get breakfast, when our other +guide, Jocko, who had gone to the main camp for food, came back in great +excitement, having found some fresh signs close at hand. Breakfast was +dropped and again we started. We got back just after dark from that trip +and ate--for the first time that day--some cold partridge and pork. + +This was a fair sample of our hunting day, but did not equal the +following one. It rained all that night, and the tent, not having been +properly stretched, leaked. We were awakened by the crackling of a fire +the guides had made. It was direct disobedience of orders, and contrary +to the most elementary rules of moose hunting; but, cold and faint for +want of food, we yielded to the innate perversity of the Indian. We made +a wild-eyed, starved group, warming our fingers around the little blaze +as it snapped up through the still, wet morning air. The teapot was just +beginning to boil, the pork was just sizzling, when we sprang to our +feet. A crash of antlers, as though two bulls were fighting, sounded not +a hundred yards away. The noise was perfectly clear, having a metallic +ring to it, and was caused by moose horns striking a hard substance. + +Again. Without a word, we seized our rifles, and left our breakfast and +fire, and I never saw that spot afterward. Again came the sound, still +distinct, but further off, this time like a birch canoe dragged through +alders. The animal had been on the runway which crossed at the foot of +the hill we were camped on when he scented the fresh-lit fire. Well, to +make a long story short, we followed that trail three weary hours of +running and creeping through frightful swamps and thickets, hearing +every few minutes the sound just ahead of us, but with never a sight of +the game. His huge tracks, which we crossed now and again, showed he was +not even trotting. Nearly exhausted, we kept following the sound +directly, and so cutting across and gaining on him. Once he seemed just +ahead, and we expected to see him each second; but we had to pay for the +luxury of that fire, as for other good things in life, so we never saw a +hair of him. When, at last, completely used up, we burst out on a lake +and saw the muddy tracks and the water still "riled up" where he had +crossed, Jocko swore he heard him crash up the opposite bank; but we +were at the end of our strength and could go no further. A man must eat +sometimes, even on a moose hunt. + +Now comes the really tragical part of this episode; our canoe was not +twenty feet from where this perverse animal had entered the water, and +we were on the little pond where our permanent camp stood. Still we felt +encouraged, for, as Chabot said that night, "Hear him now, see him +pretty soon." But not for many days. + +One more sample to encourage would-be moose hunters, and then we will +kill a moose just to show how easy it is. Two nights after the above +adventure we changed our camp and the weather at the same time. It was +clear now, but it grew very cold, and made night work in the canoe a +horror. + +It was my brother's turn to call, and I was just dropping off to sleep +in my tent, within a few feet of the lake shore, when from the other +side of the water, about a quarter of a mile distant, a bull moose +called. On the cold, still air it rang out like a trumpet--a long call, +very different from the call made by Indian hunters. Jocko, who was with +me in camp, was frantic with excitement, especially as my brother, who +must have heard it, did not answer. Again the call sounded. The bull +must be on the shore. I thought he might swim over. Then came the +answering call, close at hand, of a cow. Jocko laughed and whispered, +"Chabot call him." Then there was silence for a few minutes, followed by +a final bellow, evidently further off. The mock cow bawled and screamed +and bleated frantically, but no sound came back. My brother and his man +kept it up until late that night, and then came to the camp almost +frozen. That incident ruined my faith in calling, for every condition of +wind and weather was perfect, and Chabot's calling apparently most +enticing. + +After this and similar episodes, we left the Kwingwishe country, after +hunting it carefully as far north as Sassanega Lake. We passed Sair's +Lake and the Bois Franc, and finally reached the Little Beauchene. Near +the last lake my brother killed a young bull moose, whose meat was the +first fresh food, except partridge, we had had for over three weeks. It +was delicious, and we felt the change of diet at once in increased +strength and energy. For continuous use moose meat is much superior to +other venison, as it is of a rich flavor which does not readily pall on +the taste. The myth about moose muffle being such a hunters' delicacy +has never allured me to actually eat it, but I suppose a starving man +might, after consuming his boots, manage to swallow it. + +There were many fresh signs in the neighborhood of the Little Beauchene +Lake, but some lumbermen had arrived a few days before us and had +scared the game away. This starting the quarry is the real difficulty in +moose hunting; for, when once disturbed, the bull leaves with all his +kith and kin, so the only chance in these regions is to find him +immediately on arrival in a new district and before he comes across your +tracks. + +Still working slowly southward, we hunted more back ponds, until at last +my turn came on the twenty-seventh hunting day. Let no man say that +moose hunting is a picnic. + +We had camped on a little strip of land, between a pond and a long +narrow swamp, about 4 o'clock on a beautiful afternoon. Leaving my +brother and Jocko to eat dinner in comfort, I started to the head of the +swamp. The water was so low that we could barely force the light canoe +through the lily-pads. Old moose signs were plenty. A family of moose +had evidently been there all summer, but until we reached the upper end +we saw no fresh tracks. The sluggish stream we were on drained a shallow +lake, and, after a few hard plunges, our canoe floated clear of the mud +into the silent waters of a circular pond. It was a basin about a half +mile across, surrounded by low hardwood hills, and so shallow that a +moose, I think, could have waded across the deepest part. The shores +were marked up with some very large tracks, but fresh signs had long +since ceased to excite in me anything more than a passing interest. We +made the tour of the lake slowly and quietly. Nothing was in sight +except four wood ducks. This was "last chance" pond, and if I got no +moose here, we must return to Mattawa for another outfit, which I had +about made up my mind to do. The night settled still and cold--oh, so +cold!--and the stars came out with wonderful distinctness. + +What was that? + +Chabot had started up, listened, and a second later was driving the +birch across the lake noiselessly. As we neared the shore, it was inky +black--a mammoth would not have been visible ten yards away. Twigs +breaking at long intervals told that something was on shore just in +cover of the bushes. We waited some time and at last I whispered to +Chabot, "Muckwa?" (bear). + +"Not muckwa--cow," answered the guide. + +As he spoke, the short call of a bull floated out on the cold air from +the side of the pond that we had just left. I think Chabot was right +about the cow being in the bushes, but he may have been mistaken--one's +hearing becomes unnaturally sensitive after a few weeks' continuous +straining to catch and distinguish the most distant sounds. But there +was no mistake about that bull's call. He was well back from the shore +on the hillside. The wind was wrong, and, although he grunted at +intervals for an hour, he paid no attention to Chabot's most seductive +pleadings. We imitated with paddles the splashings of a cow walking in +the shallow water, but this and other devices had no effect. When at +last even my Indian could no longer bear the bitter cold of the wind +which had sprung up, we started for camp. Long past midnight we crawled +into our blankets, and I dropped asleep cursing the day I had first gone +after moose. + +We were on that pond again before daylight. Not a sound to be heard, not +a living thing to be seen, when the sun rose. We took our stand on a +small point opposite the outlet and watched. I sat on a fallen tree +motionless, hour after hour. Chabot dozed beside me. Those four ducks +played and fed within thirty feet, and a muskrat worked at +house-building a few yards away. The silence was intense. There was not +a breath of wind. I knew my brother was doing the same thing on a +neighboring pond, and I fell to thinking whether there was some special +Nemesis about this hunt, or it was the fault of the guides. I glanced at +the outlet in front of me, about a half mile distant. + +There was a moose, stalking with the utmost deliberation along the edge +of the woods and then into the shallow water. + +Chabot was roused by a hasty shake, and a second later the canoe was +flying across the lake. As we crossed, I inspected the moose closely. He +was walking slowly, nibbling the long reed-like grass that stuck up from +the water. His neck seemed very stiff, and he swung his legs from his +hips and shoulders. The hump was extremely conspicuous, perhaps because +his head was carried low to get at the grass. He was a young bull, +nearly full grown, and with small antlers. He looked occasionally at the +canoe, now fast nearing him; but we had the advantage of the wind, and +the sun was going down behind us. It was just 5 o'clock. He walked, now +out toward us, now back to shore, as though about to bolt for the bush, +but working slowly toward the north, where we afterwards found a +much-used runway, leading to the marsh my brother was watching, two +miles away. I opened fire about fifty yards off, when the moose was +standing in about a foot of water, looking suspiciously at us. The shot +was too high, but struck him in the shoulder. He started in a lumbering +gallop along the shore. I fired again. This turned him into the woods at +an old lumber road. We heard the twigs snap sharply for a minute, and +then a heavy crash and silence. I thought we had lost him, but Chabot +declared that he was down. I sprang ashore the moment the canoe +grounded, and dashed in on his trail, which was perfectly clear on the +soft moss. Looking ahead through the open woods for the animal, which I +thought had turned, I almost fell over his prostrate body. + +His head rested against a small windfall, which he had tried to +clear--an effort which appeared to have cost him his life. Moss hung +from some small spruce trees close by, which had been kicked up in the +death struggle. The shoulder shot had been the fatal one, but he had +been hard hit in the side too. + +He was not full grown, and measured only 5 feet 6-1/2 inches in height, +and 8 feet 3-1/4 inches in length, from the nose to root of tail. His +girth at the shoulder was 5 feet 11-1/4 inches. His nose showed none of +the Jewish characteristics which taxidermists are fond of giving their +mounted moose heads. The forehead and shoulders were brownish instead of +black, like the rest of the body. The hindlegs were wholly white, as +were the forelegs below the knee. I am inclined to think he was a ranger +moose, but could not tell with certainty, as his horns were too +undeveloped. The velvet was still hanging in places, but very dry. This +was unusual, as it was the 10th of October. + +Ordering Chabot to dress the moose, I went back to the canoe, having +decided to watch until dark, although there seemed no possibility of +seeing another moose after the firing. My lazy guide, instead of obeying +my order, merely cut the skin, with the result that all the meat +spoiled--probably just what he wanted, fearing he would have to portage +it out of the bush. We returned to our point and dozed again. At a +quarter of 7 it was getting dark fast, and in the north a black, +ugly-looking cloud was gathering. We might as well go back to camp if it +was going to blow and rain, so I told Chabot to shove off and to give +one last toot of his horn, just for luck. + +The air was still as death with the dread of the impending storm. Chabot +took up the coiled birch, and the echoes rang out with a short grunting +call, which so much resembles a man chopping wood. Before they died +away, there came from behind us, just to our right, the unmistakable +answering grunt of a bull moose. He was probably on his way to the lake, +and our call merely hastened him and brought him out into the open +before it was too dark to shoot. He was very near and came steadily +forward, stopping now and then to listen. We could hear him plainly as +his horns broke the twigs at every step--once or twice he lashed the +bushes with them. He repeated his grunts, ungh! ungh! every few steps. +He was so evidently reckless that, to take no chance, I allowed Chabot +to answer only once--with the short call. I say short call, in +distinction to the long modulated call which is used to good purpose in +Maine and New Brunswick, but which I have never known to succeed in this +part of Canada. The moose paused for a moment in the alders that formed +a close thicket at the water's edge, and I feared he had seen or scented +us; then suddenly and noiselessly he stepped out from a cove a short +hundred yards away. He had taken less than ten minutes from the first +call to his appearance. + +At the first alarm we had pushed off and were floating quietly just by +the shore. The water was so shallow that the birch made, to my ears at +least, a frightful scraping as it pushed over the dead sticks that lay +in the water, and the wind was unfavorable. I never shall forget the +appearance that bull made as he stepped fiercely and proudly out, with +his head up, swinging a splendid set of antlers as lightly as straws. He +did not see us, but strode about ten yards into the shallow lake, where +the water scarcely covered his hoofs, and, first glancing away for a +second, turned like a flash and faced us full, looking down on us in +surprised disgust. He was greatly excited and the mane on his hump was +erect, increasing his natural height, and there was nothing timid or +deer-like in his appearance. I have seen in the arena a bull step out +from the darkened stall into the glare of sunlight, and gaze for a +moment at the picadors with a sort of indignant surprise; so this great +bull moose looked. + +We gazed motionless at each other, I knowing that it was one of the +grandest and rarest sights on the American continent, and he thinking, +no doubt, what a disgraceful imitation of a cow the motionless canoe +made. Chabot's breath was coming hard behind me, and I felt the birch +bark quiver. + +As I raised my rifle, I realized that it had suddenly grown very dark +under this western bank, and the bull precisely resembled in color the +background, and, large as he was, made a very poor mark. The tall grass, +which I had looked over in watching him, now sticking up in front of the +sights, bothered me. I fired at the root of his neck, and the rifle gave +a suppressed roar in the heavy air and the smoke hung like a pall. The +bull ran straight forward, hesitated as though about to charge, then +turned and made wonderful speed along the lake shore. The moment I could +see him I fired again. In the dim twilight he was almost out of sight. +When the smoke cleared he was gone. + +Neither of us moved. It was too frightful to miss such an immense +creature at that range. We heard him crash up the hillside and then stop +a short distance back in the wood. Then I knew he either was down or had +turned, unless he had found an open lumber road, where his horns would +make no sound; for a moose can go in the most mysterious manner when he +chooses to be quiet--but there was nothing quiet about this bull. + +Chabot declared that he had heard him cough, but I did not believe it. I +pointed to the spot where he had entered the bush, and a moment later +the canoe grated on the beach. There were the huge tracks with the hoofs +wide spread, and the trail entering an old lumber road. + +All this took less time to happen than to read, and yet it was now dark, +so quickly had night fallen. By straining my eyes I saw it was 7 +o'clock--just two hours after the first bull was killed. Chabot wanted +to go back to camp, which was the proper thing to do, especially as I +had now just one cartridge left. I had only taken a handful with me that +morning. + +We entered the forest foot by foot, Chabot following the trail where I +could scarcely see to step. A few yards in and the track turned from the +old road into the thick bush, and we knew the moose was near. A little +further, and we scarcely moved--stepping like cats from tree to tree, +expecting every second to hear an angry grunt and have the bull emerge +from the impenetrable veil of night that hung around us. + +At last we came to a windfall, and we were for some time at a loss to +find whether he had gone across or around it. In lighting a match with +extreme caution, the light fell on a tall moose wood stem about as large +as one's finger. Four feet from the ground it was dripping with bright +red blood. The coughing Chabot had heard was now, we thought, explained, +and the game hard hit. We decided to go back to camp; for, as my guide +put it very clearly, the wounded bull would either fight or run. I +wasn't anxious for the first alternative in the dark and tangled wood, +with one cartridge; and the second meant a long chase on the morrow. If +we left him until the morning, he would be either dead or too stiff from +his wound to go far. + +So back we went to camp, amply repaid by the events of two hours for +weeks of hardship and exposure. Just at daylight the next morning, as we +were leaving camp, prepared to take and keep the trail of that bull if +it led to Hudson Bay, my brother appeared with Jocko. He had had no +breakfast, and had come a long distance through a frightful bush in +order to be in at the death, as he had heard the firing, and shrewdly +suspected that in the dusk a wounded moose was the result. + +"From the tracks at my lake," said he, as he strode up to the fire, +"there are two bull moose around here--a large and a small one; which +did you get?" + +"Both," replied Chabot. + +We took the trail at the water's edge, and found it smeared with blood. +The bull could not have gone far. A short walk brought us to the +windfall where we had turned back the night before, and which had seemed +so deep in the woods. + +A hundred yards beyond it lay the bull on his right side. The second +shot had struck him in the center of the left ham and ranged through +him. The meat was spoiled, as was the hide--that is, the hair came out +so badly that it was not worth while to prepare it; but the neck and +scalp were perfect, except a bad scar on the forehead, received in +fighting. + +He was a grand sight as he lay dead in that silent autumn forest--for I +never can get over the impression that somehow or other the moose is a +survival of a long past order of nature, a fit comrade for the mammoth +and the cave bear. He was short and thickset, with immense chest +power--probably a swamp moose. The neck was short and stout, and he had +a Jewish cast of nose. No bell--merely the common dewlap. He measured at +the shoulder 6 feet 6 inches; 9 feet 8-1/2 inches from nose to tip of +tail; girth at shoulders, 6 feet 2-1/2 inches. We skinned and +decapitated the moose, one after the other. The meat of both was +completely spoiled, and it seemed wicked to leave those two huge +carcasses to the bears and wolves; but there was no help for it, so we +started for Mattawa. I doubt if we could have carried out any of the +meat if we had tried, for we had to throw away everything not absolutely +necessary on the long portages that followed. At last we reached +Rosiceau's, on Snake Lake, and, with the welcome the old man gave us, +felt quite at home once more. Then passing by the scenes of a former +hunt, we reached Fort Eddy, an old Hudson Bay post, and then the Ottawa +River. We ran the Cave rapids, and at sundown on a beautiful day the +town of Mattawa swung in sight, and the hunt was over. + +The country we had traversed contained little except bears and moose. We +saw a few caribou tracks, and brought home with us a curious caribou +antler, which we found in the woods. + +The fur animals have, within the last five years, been exterminated, and +the very few beaver that survive have abandoned their old habits, and +live in holes in the banks of the larger streams. We found traces of one +of these bank beaver, but he was probably traveling and we could not +catch him. A few mink were shot, but the country is completely stripped +of everything else of value. If the present law, prohibiting the +trapping of otter and beaver, can be enforced, perhaps the land may be +restocked, but it will take years. It is fit for nothing except fur and +timber, and, with efficient game wardens, could be made to produce a +large return from these sources. Partridges and loons abounded, but +ducks were seldom seen. + +The lakes form a complete system of communication by means of easy +portages, but there are no streams that contain trout and no springs to +supply drinking water. This lack of fresh water caused us considerable +suffering, as the lake water is supposed to be dangerous, and a pail of +spring water, which we got at the start, was carried for days over +portages as our most precious baggage. We did not see a sign of a brook +trout during the entire trip, and I do not believe that there were any +in the waters we traversed. There may have been lake trout, but our +trolling produced only pike and pickerel. + +This absence of small game and fish makes the country very +uninteresting, and the long monotony between most exciting events is the +greatest drawback to hunting on the Upper Ottawa. + +_Madison Grant._ + + + + +A Hunting Trip in India + + +Early in 1881 I landed at Bombay, intending to get as many varieties of +big game shooting as possible during the course of the year. I was well +armed with introductions, including many from the Department of State, +and during my stay in India was treated by the English military +officers, civil officials, planters and merchants with a hearty +hospitality which I cordially appreciated. Thanks to this hospitality, +and to the readiness with which all to whom I was introduced fell into +my plans, I was able to get a rather unusually varied quantity of sport. + +My first trip was in March, after tigers. On the 1st of March I started +from Hyderabad with Colonels Fraser and Watson, and traveled by +palanquin that day and night, and most of the next day, striking the +foot of the G[=a]t at a place called Rungapore, and then going on over a +great plain, beyond which we camped. The scenery was magnificent, and +we heard much news of the devastation of tigers among the large herds of +miserable-looking cattle belonging to the poor villagers roundabout. The +thermometer went up to 96 degrees in the shade during the day, but the +nights were lovely and cool. Thanks to Colonel Fraser, we were fitted +out as comfortably as we could be, and the luxury of the camp life +offered the strongest possible contrast to my experiences in roughing it +on the buffalo range in northwestern Texas. + +For the first two days we accomplished nothing, though several of the +cattle we had put out for baits were killed, and though we started and +beat the jungles with our elephants whenever we received khubber, or +news. Our camp equipage included twenty elephants, forty camels and +bullocks, thirty horses for the troopers, and fifty baggage horses. We +had seventeen private servants, twenty-six police, fifty-two bearers, +and an indefinite number of attendants for the elephants and camels, and +of camp followers. An Indian of high position, Sir Salar Jung, was along +also; so our total retinue comprised 350 men, in addition to which we +employed each day of beaters 150 or 200 more. + +On March 5th, one of the shikaris brought word that he had seen and +heard a tigress and two cubs at a nullah about six miles away. +Immediately we started up the valley, Col. Fraser, Col. Watson and +myself, each on his own elephant. The jungle was on fire and the first +beat was not successful, for we had to fight the fire, and in the +excitement the brute got off. However, some of the watchers saw her, and +marked her down in another small ravine. Through this we again beat, the +excitement being at fever heat. I was, of course, new to the work, and +the strangeness of the scene, the cries of the beaters and watchers, the +occasional explosion of native fireworks, together with the quantity of +other game that we saw, impressed me much. In this ravine I was favored +by good luck. The tigress broke right in front of me, and I hit her with +a ball from a No. 12 smooth-bore. She sickened at once and crawled back +into the jungle. In we went on the elephants, tracking her up. She made +no attempt to charge, and I finished her off with another barrel of the +smooth-bore and two express bullets. The crowd of natives ran up, +abusing the tigress and praising me, while the two colonels drank my +health. We then padded the tigress and rode back to camp, having been +gone from half past 9 in the morning till 7 in the evening. This tigress +weighed, when we brought her in, 280 pounds; her living weight must have +been much more. + +Next day we again got news of a tigress, with one cub, but we failed to +find her. The following day, for a change, I tried still-hunting through +the woods. There was not much game, but what we did see was far from +shy, and the shooting was easy. The camp was on a terrace, and from it +we went up a range of hills to the stalking ground. It was a stony +country and the trees were scrubby. I shot two cheetul, or spotted deer, +and also two of the little jungle cocks. The next day again was a blank, +but on the 9th we got another tiger. Thanks to the courtesy of my +friends, I was given the first shot, again hitting it with one barrel of +the smooth-bore. The heat was very great on this day. It was not +possible to touch the gun barrels without a glove, and the thirst was +awful. In the evening the cool bath was a luxury indeed. By moonlight +the camp was very fine. The next morning I was off at daybreak, snipe +shooting around a big tank, seven miles away. On my return I found that +my companions had gone out for a beat, and so, after a hurried +breakfast, I jumped on my horse and rode after them. That afternoon we +beat two ravines and got a tiger. This was the last tiger that we +killed. The weather was getting very warm, and, though we stayed a week +longer out, we failed to get on terms with Mr. Stripes again. However, I +shot three sambur stags. Two of them were weighed in camp, their weight +being, respectively, 450 and 438 pounds. + +It was now getting hot, and I determined to start northward for my +summer's hunting in the Himalayas and Cashmere, although it was rather +early to try to get through the mountains. I left Lahore on April 6th +for the Pir Pinjal. My transportation consisted of eight pack ponies and +three native single-horse carts. I was shown every courtesy by Mr. +McKay, a member of the Forest Department, at Gujarat. I intended to make +a hunt for gorals and bears in the mountains around the Pir Pinjal +before striking through to Cashmere. The goral is a little mountain +antelope, much like the chamois, only with straight horns. The bear in +the region in which I was hunting was the black bear, which is very +much like our own black bear. Further on in the Himalayas is found the +red or snow bear, which is a good deal like the great brown bear of +Europe, or a small and inoffensive grizzly. After leaving Gujarat, I +traveled for several days before coming to my hunting ground proper, +although on the way I killed some peacocks, partridges, and finally some +very handsome pheasants of different kinds. The country offered the +greatest possible contrast to that in which I had been hunting tigers. +Everything was green and lovely, and the scenery was magnificent beyond +description--the huge steep mountains rising ahead of me, while the +streams were crystal-clear, noisy torrents. The roads were very rough, +and the wild flowers formed great carpets everywhere. + +On the 16th of April I began my shooting, having by this time left my +heavy baggage behind, and having with me only what the coolies could +carry. I had two shikaris, four servants and twelve coolies, besides +myself. On April 16th I killed my first goral. I had hunted in vain all +day, but about 5 o'clock one of the shikaris advised my starting out +again and climbing around the neighboring cliffs. I did this for two +and one-half hours, and then got a close shot and killed the little +beast. This was my first trial of grass-shoes, and my first experience +in climbing over the stupendous mountain masses; for stupendous they +were, though they were only the foothills of the Himalayas proper. +Without grass-shoes it is impossible to climb on these smooth, grassy +slopes; but I found that they hurt my feet a great deal. The next day I +again went off with my two shikaris over the mountains. Each of them +carried a gun. I had all I could do to take care of myself without one, +for a mis-step would have meant a fall of a thousand or two feet. In the +morning we saw five gorals and I got one. At 10 I stopped and a coolie +came up with a lunch, and I lay reading, sleeping and idly watching the +grand mountains until the afternoon, when we began again to examine the +nullahs for game, being all the time much amused by the monkeys. At 4 we +started again, and in a jagged mass of precipices I got another goral. +The next day I repeated my experience, and had one of the characteristic +bits of bad luck, offset by good luck, that come to every +hunter--missing a beautiful shot at fifty yards, and then, by a fluke, +killing a goral at 300 yards. The animal, however, fell over 1,000 feet +and was ruined. I myself had a slip this day and went down about fifty +feet. The following day I again went off to climb, and the first ascent +was so steep that at the top I was completely blown, and missed a +beautiful shot at a goral at fifty yards. I then arranged a beat, but +nothing came from it, and the morning was a blank. In the afternoon I +gave up beating and tried still-hunting again. It was hard work, but I +was very successful, and killed two gorals and a bear. + +At this time I was passed by two English officers, also going in to +shoot--one of them, Captain S. D. Turnbull, a very jolly fellow and a +good sportsman, with whom I got on excellent terms; the other, a Captain +C., was a very bad walker and a poor shot, and was also a disagreeable +companion, as he would persist in trying to hang around my hunting +grounds, thus forcing me continually to shift. + +On April 21st I tried driving for gorals, and got four, and on the next +two days I got three gorals and two bears. So far I had had great luck +and great sport. The work was putting me in fine trim, except my feet, +which were getting very sore. It was very hard work going after the +gorals. The bears offered easier stalking, and, like our American black +bear but unlike our grizzly, they didn't show fight. The climbing was +awful work. The stones and grass-shoes combined bruised and skinned the +soles of my feet, so that I could not get relief without putting them in +clarified butter and then keeping them up in the air. Accordingly I +tried resting for a day, and meant to rest the following day too; but +could not forbear taking a four hours' stroll along the banks of the +brawling, snow-fed river, and was rewarded by shooting a surow--a queer, +squatty, black antelope, about the size of a Rocky Mountain white goat +and with similar horns. The next day I rested again, hoping my feet +would get better. Instead they got worse, and I made up my mind that, as +they were so bad, I might as well get some hunting anyhow, so off I +tramped on the 27th for another all-day jog. It would be difficult to +describe the pain that my feet gave me all day long. However, it was a +real sporting day. I suffered the tortures of the damned, but I got two +gorals and one tahr--a big species of goat with rather small horns--and +then hobbled back to camp. Next day I stayed quietly in camp, and then +started back to the camp where I had left my heavy baggage. On the way I +picked up another black bear. My feet were in a frightful condition, but +I had had a fortnight's excellent sport. + +I then went on to Cashmere, and on May 6th reached Siringur. The scenery +was beautiful beyond description, and the whole life of the natives very +attractive to look at. However, something did not agree with me, for I +was very sick and had to go to bed for several days. There were one or +two American friends there, and these and the Englishmen, to whom I had +letters of introduction, treated me with extreme courtesy. As soon as I +got well, I started off for the real mountains, hoping especially to get +ibex and markhoor. The ibex is almost exactly the same as the European +animal of that name. The markhoor is a magnificent goat, with long +whitish hair and great spiral horns. They also have in these Cashmere +valleys a big stag called the barramigh, which is a good deal like our +wapiti, only not half so large. On May 21st I started off, first by +boat, but I was bothered from the beginning by chills and fever. I was +weak, and glad I didn't have to march. At first, all I did in shooting +was to have my coolies beat some brush patches near camp. Out of one of +them they started a little musk-deer, which I shot. Soon I began to get +very much better and we took up our march. I was going toward Astor, but +encountered much snow, as it was still early in the season for these +high mountains. I saw some grand barramigh, but their horns were, of +course, only just growing, and I didn't molest them. + +Very soon I got into a country where the red bears literally swarmed. +From May 26th to June 5th, during which time I was traveling and hunting +all the time, I shot no less than sixteen, together with two musk-deer, +but saw nothing else. The marching was very hard, and some of the passes +dangerous. I met a British officer, Lieutenant Carey, on the 30th, who +treated me very well indeed. The scenery was very beautiful, although +rather bleak. I did not pick up strength as much as I had hoped. On June +3d I christened my camp Camp Good Luck, because of the phenomenal +success I had with the bears. That morning we left by 4 to cross the +river before the snow had melted. The thermometer would go down to 30 +degrees, even in the valleys, at night, so that everything would freeze, +and then would go up to 110 in the day, and when the snow melted the +streams would come down in a perfect torrent. Not two miles beyond the +river I saw three bears on the side of a hill, a she and two +two-year-old cubs. My shikari made a splendid stalk and brought me +within forty yards, and I got all three with a shot apiece. The delight +of my camp followers was amusing. I then left the tents, and, taking +only my blankets and a lunch basket with me, started off again. At +midday I slept, and at 2 o'clock started up the nullah, seeing a number +of bears. One of them I got within fifty yards, and two others, right +and left, at 100 yards. The skinning took a long time, and the stream +which I had to cross was up with the evening flood, so that I didn't get +back to camp until 10 o'clock. I had shot unusually well, I had been +happy and was all tired out, and it is needless to say how I slept. + +Soon after this I began to suffer from fever, and I had to work very +hard indeed, as I was now on the ibex ground. For several days, though I +saw ibex, I was unable to get near them. Finally, on June 9th, I got my +first one, a young buck with small horns. I had to hunt way up the +mountain, even beyond bush vegetation, and the hot sun at midday was +awful. Nevertheless, by very hard climbing, I managed on this day to get +within shot first of a herd of nine females, which I did not touch, and +then of the young buck, which I killed. On June 13th, by another +heart-breaking climb, very high up, I got a second small buck. I did not +get back to camp that night till half past 9--tired out, feet badly cut +with the stones and bruised all over; but in spite of the fever I +enjoyed every day--the scenery was so grand and the life so +exhilarating. Four days afterwards came a red-letter day. I started +early in the morning, clambering up among the high mountains. Until noon +I saw nothing; then several flocks of ibex came in sight, one of them of +eleven big bucks. I had to wait four hours to get into a position to +stalk; then by quick work and awful climbing I came within close range +and killed three. It was half past 10 in the evening before I got back +to camp, very nearly done up, but exultant over my good luck. + +The traveling now became very severe and I had a great deal of +difficulty even with the coolies, and though I hunted hard I got little +game until July 8th. I had been shifting, trying to get on markhoor +ground, and on this day I killed my first markhoor. The shikaris and I +left the coolies to go around the path while we went over the mountain, +a five hours' climb, keeping a sharp lookout for game. Just at the +beginning of the ascent we saw three fine-looking markhoor grazing in a +nullah, and after a stalk of about a mile, during which time it began to +rain, the beasts went into a jungle on the steep side of the mountain. +Through this we still-hunted and I got a shot through the bushes at 100 +yards. By good luck I hit and great was the rejoicing. Five days later I +got two ibex, which at a distance we had mistaken for markhoor. Then I +was attacked by a terrible dysentery and was within an ace of dying. For +a fortnight I was unable to leave camp, excepting when I was carried +slowly along by the coolies in the effort to get me out of the +mountains. On August 1st I shot a second markhoor. We were journeying at +the time. In the very rough places I had to walk, though awfully weak; +elsewhere the coolies carried me. The markhoor was just below us, round +a turn in the Indus Valley. I was in advance with one of the shikaris +and got a quiet shot, and more by good luck than anything else--for I +was very weak--I killed. I now began gradually to pick up strength, and +when near Astor I got a urial, a kind of wild sheep. + +I had no other experience of note till I got back to Siringur, where I +stayed to recuperate, and at the end of August went off once more into +the foothills, this time after barramigh. In a week's work I killed +three, but again became sick, and had to give up and come in. + +I forthwith returned to India, the hot weather being by this time pretty +well over. As I was very anxious to kill an elephant, I went down to +Ceylon, reaching that island the end of October and going out to Kandy. +I met a number of Englishmen, who were very kind to me, as were some +Eurasian gentlemen. On November 16th I left Minerva for a regular hunt. +It was very interesting shooting through the tropical jungle and I had +good luck. There were plenty of elephants, but at first I didn't get +any, though I shot five spotted deer and a boar. Finally, however, I got +two of the big brutes I was mainly after. One of them, which I killed on +the 20th of the month, was said to be a rogue that had killed two +villagers and done at intervals a good deal of damage to the crops. An +old native tracker had guaranteed to show me this elephant. He kept his +word. For three or four miles we had a very exciting track, and then +came on him standing in the jungle, occasionally flapping his ears, and +crept up to within thirty yards. I think he was asleep and I got a +perfectly good shot, but, extraordinary to say, I missed. However, when +he ran I went after him, and, getting very close, I shot him in the hip, +so injuring his leg that he could not get away. He could still get round +after us, and we passed a most lively half-hour, he trumpeting and +charging incessantly, until, after expending a great quantity of +cartridges, I finally put a bullet behind his eye, and down he went. + +Soon after this I went back to Kandy, and early in December left India +for good. + +_Elliott Roosevelt._ + + + + +[Illustration: HOW OUR OUTFIT WAS CARRIED.] + +Dog Sledging in the North + + +A good many years ago, my friends, Boies Penrose, Granville Keller, and +I concluded that it would be a fitting termination to a very successful +summer and fall hunting trip in the Rocky Mountains to endeavor to kill +some moose and caribou in the Lake Winnipeg country, Manitoba. Thus we +should combine very different kinds of sport amid surroundings more +dissimilar than we imagined at the time. The whole of this rather +memorable trip occupied nearly six months. + +Our adventures during the latter part of the hunt, that is, during our +sojourn in the far north--while a part of the every-day experience of +those familiar with the winter life in the woods of that country--were +of a character totally unknown to the majority of sportsmen in the +United States, and for this reason it has been thought worth while to +give a short account of them. + +If my recollection serves me correctly, we arrived at Selkirk, at the +lower end of Lake Winnipeg, in the latter part of October, to find +navigation already closed. We had hoped to reach the upper part of the +lake by means of a steamer, but found this impossible, and were +therefore obliged to go on sleds to our first hunting ground--a moose +country to the south of the head waters of the Fisher River, between +Lake Winnipeg and Lake Winnipegosis. + +At Selkirk we were joined by a Mr. Phillips, and we had there employed +an Indian boy to look after the dogs. This Indian was a magnificent +specimen physically, and certainly the best walker that I have ever +known. With the exception of a pardonable fondness for our whisky, he +behaved very well at first, but afterward became so insufferably lazy +that he was scarcely fit for the simple work of driving one of the dog +teams--a change which was to be attributed entirely to our kind +treatment of him. He was, however, a good trailer, but the worst shot +that I remember to have met. He seemed to have no difficulty in finding +moose, but could not hit them, which was the exact reverse of our +experience. + +Portions of the country between Lakes Winnipeg and Winnipegosis, +visited by our party, are as flat as the flattest portions of New +Jersey, and for great distances nothing could be more level except +possibly a billiard table. It is traversed by very few rivers or even +creeks, there being immense stretches of territory where the only guide +back to camp is the sun when it shines, or when it does not your +compass, or the dog-sled trail through the snow leading to the camp. The +different portions of this region are so much alike that it is almost +impossible to tell one from another. + +Owing to the fact that it is very dangerous to be caught out over night, +with the thermometer ranging anywhere from zero to 50 degrees below, we +took the precaution to mount a big red flag in the top of the highest +spruce we could find near our camp, so that, by climbing a high tree +anywhere within a radius of a mile or so, one could easily see this +flag. To still further reduce the chance of getting lost, we blazed the +trees in a straight line for four miles due south of the camp, and, as +the dog-sled trail came into our camp (which was in the heavy timber) +from the north, it was not difficult to find one's way home in the +evening. These precautions--needless elsewhere, but wise in this +country--were taken principally because each of us had always been in +the habit for years of hunting alone--a practice which I would recommend +to anyone who desires to be really successful in killing big game. + +This vast expanse of flat country is quite heavily wooded over large +areas, the timber being spruce, tamarack, poplar, birch, etc., with a +great abundance of red and gray willow. The underbrush is sometimes very +thick. There are, however, innumerable open places, which bear the local +name of muskegs. These are, of course, marshes in summer, and covered +with a heavy growth of grass; in winter they are frozen hard, and +traveling over them is comparatively easy. + +The moose seem to be fond of remaining close to the edges of these +muskegs, which are usually fringed with a heavy growth of willows. It +would appear, however, that they venture out into these open places +either during the night, early in the morning, or late in the afternoon; +and, as these were the times when we were very glad either to be in camp +or to be returning to it, we had more success in finding the moose in +the timber, or on the little so-called ridges, which sometimes attain +the remarkable height of four or five feet. + +Up to the time of leaving this camp we had very little opportunity to +use snowshoes, as the snow was not yet--about the last of November--deep +enough to make these necessary. We hunted all of the time in moccasins, +boots of any description being simply out of the question, as they would +soon freeze as hard as iron. After the cold weather set in, one day's +experience with boots was quite sufficient for me, and I came to the +conclusion, as I had often before in other regions, that it is very +difficult to improve, in the matter of clothing, upon the customs of the +country. The sudden change to moccasins was very tiring at first, but +after one gets used to walking in them he will find that he can walk +further and hunt better in them than any other style of foot-gear. We +used, as I remember, first one or two pairs of heavy woolen socks, then +a very heavy so-called "German" sock, coming up to the knee, over which +we wore the high laced moccasin of the country. + +Before we had very long been engaged in moose hunting we all learned +that we were not so expert in the art of killing big game as we +previously imagined ourselves. In all my experience I have never met +with any animal which is so difficult to get a shot at, even when quite +numerous, as the moose in this region. It must always be borne in mind +that to kill a moose--especially in a country where they have been +hunted for generations by the Indians--by the thoroughly sportsmanlike +method of following the trail of one until you finally get a shot at it +and kill it, is a totally different thing from killing the same moose +either by calling him at night in the autumn or by paddling on him in a +canoe in the summer. In fact, of all the difficult things I have ever +undertaken in the way of sport, I regard this as the most difficult; and +before I got my first shot I began to think that there was a great deal +of truth in the Indian's sneering remark, "White man no kill moose." +Finally one day my luck turned, but that it did so was due more to the +realization of my own inferiority, and lack of the proper kind of +knowledge, than to anything else. + +It happened in this way: having thoroughly convinced myself that the +moose either smelt me or in some other way found out that I was in their +neighborhood before I could be made aware of the same fact, I concluded +that there was something radically wrong in my manner of hunting them, +although I employed every method known to me--methods which had been +acquired in an experience during which I had killed considerably over +one hundred head of big game, throughout the Rockies and the +Alleghanies. In short, I was exceedingly painstaking and careful. +Notwithstanding all my precautions, however, I remember that I had the +satisfaction one night of knowing that I had started during the day +eight different moose, each separately, without hearing or seeing a +single one of them. This sort of thing lasted for twenty-two consecutive +days, or until I finally concluded that, as our Indian seemed to have no +trouble in seeing moose, I would follow his tactics. Waiting, therefore, +one morning until I was sure that the Indian had left camp, I changed my +course so as to intersect his trail, followed this for some distance, +and watched carefully his foot-prints, so as to read the record of his +hunt. + +Pretty soon it became apparent that he had come across a moose trail. He +tried it first with the toe of his moccasin, then with the butt of his +gun, and satisfied himself that it was too old to follow. He went on +until he came across another trail, and evidently had spent considerable +time in making up his mind whether it was worth while to follow this +trail or not. He then followed it for a few yards, and, to my surprise, +suddenly left it, and went off almost at right angles to the leeward. I +supposed that he had given up the moose trail, but nevertheless I +followed further on his track. Again to my surprise, I presently found +him gradually coming around in a circuitous fashion to the trail again, +until he finally reached it. He then immediately retraced his steps, +making another semi-circle, bearing generally, however, in the direction +the moose had gone, and again came to the trail. This occurred four or +five times, until finally the explanation of his conduct flashed upon +me, for there lay his cartridge. I saw--as he afterward described it to +me--where he had shot at the moose, which had just arisen out of its bed +a short distance away, but, as usual, he had missed it. Now I had +noticed, in my three weeks' experience, that I had come upon the moose +either lying down or standing in some thicket, but that they had been +able to wind me considerably before my arrival at the spot marked by +their beds in the snow. Not until then had occurred to me what is well +known to many who still-hunt moose, namely, that before lying down they +generally make a long loop to the leeward, returning close to their +trail, so that they can readily get the wind of anyone following upon it +long before he reaches them, when, of course, they quietly get up and +sneak away. In fact, they do not seem to have an atom of curiosity in +their composition, and in this are different from most other wild +animals that I have known. By making these long loops to the leeward the +hunter reduces to a minimum the likelihood of being smelt or heard by +the moose; and in these animals the senses of smell and hearing are very +acute, although their eyesight seems to be bad. + +Having quite satisfied myself as to what it was necessary to do, I +waited until the next day to put it into execution, because by the time +I had made my discovery it was about half past 2 o'clock, and the sun +was near the horizon. + +The following day I went out bright and early, and, after varying +success in finding a good trail, I ran across a trail made by five bull +moose, a photograph of one of which is shown. After satisfying myself +that the trail had been made during the previous night, I began making +the long loops to the leeward which I had found to be so necessary. I +finally came to the place where the moose had lain down--a bed showing +one of them to have unusually large horns--but they had gone on again, +in a manner, however, that showed that they were merely feeding, and not +alarmed. I redoubled my precautions, stepping as if on eggs, so as not +to break the twigs underneath my feet. In a short time I heard the +significant chattering of one of the little red pine squirrels so +abundant in that region. I at once knew that the squirrel had seen +something, but had not seen me. It did not take me long to make up my +mind that the only other living things in that vicinity which would be +likely to cause him to chatter were these moose, and that they were +probably startled, although I had not been conscious of making any +noise. At any rate, I ran quite rapidly toward the end of a small narrow +muskeg on my left, but some distance away, to which chance conclusion +and prompt action I owe probably one of the most fortunate and exciting +pieces of shooting that has occurred in my experience. I was shooting at +that time a little double rifle (.450-120-375 solid bullet), which had +been made for me by Holland & Holland, and which was fitted with one of +my conical sights. + +Before I was within fifty yards of the end of the muskeg, I saw one of +the moose dash across it, about 150 yards away. I fired quickly, and in +much the same way that I would shoot at a jacksnipe which had been +flushed in some thicket; but had the satisfaction of seeing the animal +lurch heavily forward as he went out of sight into the timber. Almost +immediately, and before I had time to reload, the second moose followed. +I gave him the other barrel, but I did not know until afterward that he +was hit. In fact, it was hard to get a bullet through the timber. I +reloaded quickly, and ran forward to get to the opening; but before I +reached it, the third moose passed in immediately behind the others. I +again shot quickly, and felt that I had probably hit him. By running on +rapidly I reached the edge of the opening in time to intercept the +fourth moose. As he came into the opening I got a good shot at him, not +over eighty yards distant, and felt very sure of this one at least. I +then reloaded, when, to my amazement, the fifth, in a very deliberate +manner, walked, not trotted, into the muskeg, which at the point where +the moose crossed it was not over sixty or seventy feet wide. He first +looked up and down, as if undetermined what to do, and then, probably +seeing one of the other moose on the ground, commenced walking up toward +me. As luck would have it, I got a cartridge jammed in my rifle, and +could not pull it out or knock it in, although I nearly ruined my +fingers in my attempt to do so. Of course, this was the biggest bull of +all, and I had the supreme satisfaction of seeing him deliberately walk +out of my sight into the woods, and he was lost to me forever. His horns +were much larger than those which I got. Up to that time I had no idea +that I had killed any except the last moose that I shot at, but thought +that perhaps I had wounded one or two of the others, feeling that I +would be very lucky if I should ever come up with them. + +Going down to the place where the moose had disappeared, after I had got +my rifle fixed--that is, had extracted the cartridge and put in +another--I found one of the moose dead; another, a big one, on his +knees, and the third a short distance away, looking very dejected and +uncomfortable. I did not know then that the largest bull of all had +stopped on the other side of a little thicket; and when I commenced to +give the finishing touches to the wounded moose in sight, he, +accompanied by another wounded one, got away. As I shot the big one on +his knees, I was surprised by a noise, and upon turning around found the +dejected looking small bull coming full drive toward me. I had only time +to turn around and shoot him in the breast before he was on me. I do not +think that he intended to charge; his coming toward me was probably +entirely accidental. Still it had the effect of sending my heart in my +mouth. I then started out after the wounded one, but when I saw that he +was not bleeding much concluded that, as it was growing late, and I was +seven or eight miles from camp, I would not have more than time to cover +up the three moose with snow so that I could skin them the next morning. +Before doing so, however, I sat down on top of my biggest moose, and, as +these were the first moose that I had ever seen, I surveyed them with a +great deal of satisfaction. + +About this time Phillips, who had been attracted by the shooting, +appeared in the distance, and I hailed him by a shot, when he came to +me. We then carefully covered up the moose with snow and pulled out for +camp. When we arrived there and told our story, a more disconsolate +looking Indian you could not have found in the whole region, and he +doubtless came to the conclusion that his sweeping assertion as to the +inability of a white man to kill a moose in that country was perhaps a +little too broad. + +Our luck seemed to turn from this time and we got several very good +moose, but unfortunately no other large heads. After telling this story +I do not wish to go upon record as a game slaughterer, for those who +know anything of my hunting know that I am strongly opposed to anything +of the kind. We usually have killed only enough game for meat in camp, +but at this time we had to feed beside ourselves ten dogs. Moreover, I +have never thought that the killing of bulls made very much difference +in the amount of the game, although in shooting them we have usually +made it a rule to kill only such heads as we wished to take home. I +should add, moreover, that all the meat that we did not use of the +moose that we killed in this country was distributed among some Indians +whom we met on our return, and who, hearing of our luck, followed our +dog trail to the hunting grounds after our departure. + +Having had enough moose hunting, and anxious to kill caribou, we +concluded to cross Lake Winnipeg, which by this time--early in +December--was frozen hard with nearly six feet of ice, the cracking of +which, especially at night, produces a very curious and +never-to-be-forgotten sound, which can be heard for miles. We soon +reached the lake, but were detained a day or two waiting for a favorable +day to cross--that is to say, one when the wind did not blow, as when it +does the exposure in crossing on the ice is terrific. After finally +venturing upon the ice, we made some forty or fifty miles the first day, +and reached the edge of an island, in the middle of which there were a +few houses occupied principally by Icelandic immigrants. These earn a +precarious livelihood by fishing for whitefish and jackfish principally +in the summer. They keep up this fishing all through the winter, +however, to supply their own needs, by setting their nets underneath +the ice, employing a very simple method, which, if De Long and his party +had known and provided for, they would never have perished so miserably +in the Lena delta. Here we were witnesses to the fact which entitles us +to claim that the common domestic cow is not, strictly speaking, +properly to be classed among the _herbivora_. We distinctly saw a very +ordinary looking cow devour with evident relish, while she was being +milked, a large jackfish, which had been taken from a frozen pile +stacked up outside of the house and thawed for her evening meal. + +These Icelanders live as a rule in a primitive but very comfortable way. +They are much more neat and cleanly than many of the immigrants who come +to the United States, and it is a pity that we do not have them in this +country, for they seem to be very industrious and would make good +citizens. However, it is probable that they were in search of cold +weather, and would not be happy unless they had it. If this is the case, +they most certainly have chosen the best spot on this continent which is +at all accessible; for the region around Lake Winnipeg is, I am told, +one of the coldest places where any reliable record of the temperature +is kept. During our trip, and especially while we were on the east side +of the lake, the temperatures recorded were very low, often 45 degrees +below zero. In fact, during our absence there was a record of 50 degrees +below zero at Selkirk and Winnipeg; and, as we were over a hundred miles +to the north, it is not unreasonable to suppose that the temperature was +quite as low, if not lower, with us. It must not be forgotten, however, +that, except for the cracking of the frozen trees, it is deathly still +and quiet in these regions when the temperature drops to 10 degrees +below zero. Indeed, when the temperature is below that point, it is +usually much more comfortable for one who is out in such weather than a +temperature of zero, or even 20 degrees above, with a heavy wind. Under +these conditions, however, an ordinary man when out hunting cannot +occasionally sit down on a log and smoke his pipe, for any length of +time, with a great amount of pleasure. Like the persecuted boy in the +play, although there are no policemen about, he is compelled, and indeed +is usually perfectly willing, to keep "movin' on." + +After leaving Big Island, as I remember the name, we made our way +across to the mouth of the Bad Throat River, where there was an old +lumber camp, which a great many years ago was the scene of an important +conflict between the Hudson Bay Company's men and the men of the +Northwest Fur Company, in which quite a number were killed. Here we got +another team of dogs, and picked up another member for our party in the +person of an Englishman, who by choice had drifted into this country and +lived there, marrying an Indian squaw shortly after our return. +Unfortunately, the good old-fashioned plan of performing the marriage +ceremony by running together under a blanket had been abolished, so he +had to wait until the yearly visit of the priest. This marrying of +squaws is of course common among the white men of this region. + +As we had only a few things to get before starting out for the famous +caribou country between the head waters of the Hole, the Askandoga and +the Blood Vein rivers, we were not delayed long at this place. The snow +was now quite heavy, at least enough so for comfortable snowshoe +traveling, and we made rapid time after leaving the Bad Throat River. In +this connection it is to be remarked that comparatively little snow +falls in this region. This seems singular, and I do not know the +meteorological explanation of the fact. There is certainly very much +less, for instance, than in Minnesota, hundreds of miles to the south. +The snow, however, is usually a dry powder all through winter, and very +rarely becomes crusted. + +In traveling over broken timbered country with dog-sleds, very much the +same routes are followed that one takes with a canoe in summer--that is +to say, you avoid the rough country by traveling on the rivers, which +are usually covered with thick ice, or over the same portages that are +used in summer. It was necessary for either Penrose, Keller or myself to +lead the way with our snowshoes, while the others took care of the +dog-sleds behind. The dogs followed accurately in the trail beaten out +by our snowshoes for them. + +The country on this side of the lake, unlike that of the west, is very +rough, rocky and rugged, and especially so near the lake shore. It is +quite thickly timbered. As one advances into the interior, however, this +aspect changes, so that the country near the height of land is more +open, and there are long stretches of nearly level country traversed by +rocky, moss-covered and roughly parallel ridges. There is more or less +timber on these ridges, and in the so-called muskegs between them. This +is the country which the caribou seem to prefer. + +After about two weeks' hard traveling, we reached the country which had +been recommended to us and came upon great abundance of caribou sign. In +fact, there were millions of tracks, but, curiously enough, no caribou +were to be seen. We afterward found that they had been driven out by a +lot of wolves, which probably had followed them down from the north. +While this explanation was interesting, it was not productive of any +great amount of satisfaction to the party, for we had been counting +definitely upon fresh meat, and so had our dogs. At least, after doing +the terrific work necessary to make this journey, it is fair to presume +that they had counted upon being fed, and not being left to starve +miserably while tied to a tree. + +To add to our hardships, our Indian tepee, made of canvas, began to +smoke so excessively as to cause us the greatest discomfort, and we all +thought we had pneumonia; but afterward concluded it was nothing but +irritation of the lungs, due to breathing pine smoke a good many hours +each day. In fact, it was almost unbearable. An Indian tepee of this +kind, properly made by a squaw, is beyond doubt the most comfortable of +all hunting tents in any respectable climate; but in a climate of 40 +degrees below zero it is an abomination. We used frequently to crawl +into our sheep-skin sleeping bags, wrap several blankets around the bags +and put the fire out, merely to get relief from the annoyance of the +smoke. In the morning the steam which arose from our bodies, and from +the meal which we might be cooking, got mixed up with the smoke, so that +it was impossible to distinguish each other when four feet apart. In +fact, we were sometimes inclined to think that the dogs on the outside +were better off than ourselves, though the appearance they presented in +the morning was not such as to cause us to wish to change places with +them. They were each tied by a short chain to the pine trees about the +camp, and after a night of low temperature there were to be seen in the +morning only twelve white mounds of snow; not that any snow had fallen +during the night, or that the dogs had crawled underneath that already +on the ground. Their white appearance was simply due to the dense +coating of frost which had been produced from the condensation caused by +the heat of their bodies. It must not be forgotten, however, that they +are as hardy and as well able to withstand this rigorous climate as the +wolves, from which many of them are directly descended. All of the +so-called "huskies" are of this type. + +Altogether things were not very pleasant about this time. Our Christmas +Day rations consisted of one small roll each with a little coffee for +breakfast, and in the evening each man was given a small piece of +rabbit. + +The rabbits in this country were unfortunately not as abundant as they +were on the opposite side of the lake, where the Indian boy one day went +out with one of our rifles to visit his rabbit snares and to shoot +rabbits for the dogs. Before long we heard him shoot four times. He came +back to camp with eight rabbits, which had certainly been killed with +the rifle, none of them having been snared. + +Those of us who were able to hunt at all hunted with the greatest +perseverance, but with little success, until finally some one brought in +the report that caribou had been seen, and in a very few days the +country again contained numbers of them. + +One morning, shortly after the first caribou had been seen, Keller, who +had been quite sick, was unable longer to tolerate the smoke of the +tepee, and took a little walk with his rifle close around our camp. He +soon came upon the fresh trail of a bunch of caribou. He had followed it +only a few hundred yards when he saw one of the caribou lying down. He +is a dead shot, the best I have ever known in my life. He carefully +steadied himself, raised his .45-90 Winchester, aimed at the caribou +lying down and fired. When he went up to look at it, to his amazement, +he came across another dead caribou, between the spot where he had fired +and the one at which he had aimed. It had been shot straight through the +temples. On going further, he found the other caribou shot exactly where +he had aimed at it, some twenty yards distant from the first one. The +only possible way in which he could explain this remarkable occurrence +is that the caribou which had been shot through the head, and which he +had not seen, had risen out of its bed just as he was in the act of +firing and interposed his head directly in the line of fire. The fact +of having fresh meat in camp, of course, brought great joy to us all, +and especially to the semi-starved dogs. As in the case of killing the +first moose, it seemed to have the effect of changing our luck, for we +afterward killed a number of caribou, although we were not successful in +getting good heads. + +These caribou are totally different from the moose in the kind of food +they live upon and in their general habits. They prefer a different sort +of a country, the two rarely being found together. They spend much of +their time in the muskegs, which seem to be characteristic of all of +that region of the country; but these muskegs are not open, like those +on the west side of the lake, being more or less covered with a growth +of stubby jack pine, from which usually hangs an abundance of long gray +moss. The caribou feed upon this moss, while the moose, on the other +hand, are fond of the tender sprouts of the red and gray willow. The +caribou, however, are often found on the rocky ridges, where they find +good feed on the moss growing upon the rocks. Indeed, they seem to have +no settled place of abode, like moose, being probably one of the most +restless animals on the face of the earth. They seem to be always on +the move. Unlike the moose, they are very inquisitive, in this respect +being more like the antelope than any other animal. They are found +singly, or in twos or threes, or in small bunches of ten to twenty, but +often in great herds of a hundred or perhaps a thousand. They spend a +great deal of their time on the lakes in the winter, where they play +with each other like kittens. They are wonderfully quick in their +actions. They are also very sure of their footing, and we saw a number +of places in the snow where they had slid down quite steep rocks for +some distance, probably by putting their four feet close together. Great +herds often come down from the region on the western shore of Hudson Bay +and return the following summer. + +Very few people have any idea of the immense numbers of caribou which +are found in the great tract of country to the west of Hudson Bay. By +many who are familiar with this country they are believed to be as +numerous as the buffaloes ever were in the early days. When more or less +scarce, as they were during the greater portion of our hunt, they afford +excellent hunting; but I should imagine that when they are very +numerous there would be little sport in killing them, for as a rule they +are not at all shy or difficult to approach. In general it may be said +that the caribou of this region, known as the woodland caribou, live in +the wooded districts during the summer and autumn, but in the winter +time go to the higher land. Wind and cold seem to have no terror for +them, and I doubt very much whether there is an animal in the world, +with the exception perhaps of the musk-ox or the polar bear, that is so +well fitted by nature to withstand the intense cold of the region in +which they live. When one sees a caribou's track for the first time, he +is amazed at its size, and its difference from the long, narrow, +sharp-toed track of the moose, and naturally comes to the conclusion +that the animal must be much larger than it really is. As a matter of +fact, they are not much larger than the black-tailed deer, and +considerably smaller than the elk of the Rocky Mountains. Until he has +seen them, one is likely to imagine that the caribou is an ungainly, +misshapen animal. This is a great mistake. Not only are they as a rule +well proportioned, but they are extremely graceful. Their curious horns +give them, of course, rather an odd appearance. The meat we found to be +delicious, and rather better than moose meat. + +After having remained as long as we desired in this country, and as long +as we could stand the infernal smoke of the tepee, and after having +secured a good supply of meat for our return journey, we loaded our +toboggans and retraced our steps without especial incident to the mouth +of the Bad Throat River. From there we took a sleigh to Selkirk, driving +over the lake on the ice, and arriving at Selkirk the latter part of +January or the 1st of February. + +To those who may contemplate taking a similar trip to the Canadian woods +in winter, I would say that it will prove a very interesting and +never-to-be-forgotten experience, and that the hardships of such a trip +are not necessarily severe if one will be guided entirely by the advice +of the inhabitants of the region, especially as to his clothing and +general outfit. I feel certain that, if one goes to the right locality, +not only will he get good sport, but he will get it under very pleasant +and novel conditions, and return home more benefited in every way than +if he had taken a trip of the same duration to some warm climate. Under +no circumstances, however, let him imagine that he knows more than the +people of the country as to what he should do and wear. + +_D. M. Barringer._ + + + + +[Illustration: OUTESHAI, RUSSIAN BARZOI.] + +Wolf-Hunting in Russia + + +The enormous extent and diversified conditions of the various localities +of this empire would naturally suggest a variety of sport in hunting and +shooting, including perhaps something characteristic. In the use of dogs +of the chase especially is this suggestion borne out by the facts, and +it has been said that in no other country has the systematic working +together of fox-hounds and greyhounds been successfully carried out. + +Unfortunately, this sort of hunting is not now so general as prior to +the emancipation of the serfs in 1861. A modest kennel for such sport +consists of six to ten fox-hounds and four to six pairs of barzois,[1] +and naturally demands considerable attention. Moreover, to use it +requires the presence of at least one man with the fox-hounds and one +man for each pair or each three greyhounds. To have a sufficient number +of good huntsmen at his service was formerly a much less expensive +luxury to a proprietor than now, and to this fact is due the decline of +the combined kennel in Russia. + + [1] Barzoi--long-haired greyhound, wolf-hound, Russian greyhound. + +This hunt is more or less practised throughout the entire extent of the +Russian Empire. In the south, where the soil is not boggy, it is far +better sport than in Northern Russia, where there are such enormous +stretches of marshy woods and tundra. Curiously enough, nearly all the +game of these northern latitudes, including moose, wolves, hares, and +nearly all kinds of grouse and other birds, seem to be found in the +marshiest places--those almost impracticable to mounted hunters. + +Though the distances covered in hunting, and also in making neighborly +visits in Russia, are vast, often recalling our own broad Western life, +yet in few other respects are any similarities to be traced. This is +especially true of Russia north of the Moscow parallel; for in the south +the steppes have much in common with the prairies, though more +extensive, and the semi-nomadic Cossacks, in their mounted +peregrinations and in their pastoral life, have many traits in common +with real Americans. Nor is it true of the Caucasus, where it would seem +that the Creator, dissatisfied with the excess of the great plain,[2] +extending from the Finnish Gulf to the Black Sea, resolved to establish +a counterpoise, and so heaved up the gigantic Caucasus. There too are to +be found fine hunting and shooting, which merit description and which +offer good sport to mountain amateurs. + + [2] The Waldeir hills, extending east and west half-way between St. + Petersburg and Moscow, are the only exception. + +The annual hunt in the fall of 1893 in the governments of Tver and +Yaroslav, with the Gatchino kennels, will give a good idea of the +special sport of which I have spoken. It is imperative that these hounds +go to the hunt once a year for about a month, although for the most part +without their owner. The master of the hunt and his assistant, with +three or four guests, and oftentimes the proprietors of the lands where +the hounds happen to hunt, usually constitute the party. The hunt +changes locality nearly every year, but rarely does it go further from +home than on this occasion, about 450 versts from Gatchino. As a rule it +is not difficult to obtain from proprietors permission to hunt upon +their estates, and this is somewhat surprising to one who has seen the +freedom with which the fences are torn down and left unrepaired. It is +true that they are not of the strongest and best type, and that peasant +labor is still very cheap; yet such concessions to sport would rarely be +made in America. + +It was at Gatchino, on the 10th day of September, that the hunting train +was loaded with men, horses, dogs, provisions and wagons. The hunt +called for twenty-two cars in all, including one second-class passenger +car, in one end of which four of us made ourselves comfortable, while in +the other end servants found places. The weather was cold and rainy, +and, as our train traveled as a freight, we had two nights before us. It +was truly a picturesque and rare sight to see a train of twenty-two cars +loaded with the _personnel_, material and live stock of a huge kennel. +The fox-hounds, seventy in number, were driven down in perfect, close +order by the beaters to the cracks of the Russian hunting whip and +installed in their car, which barely offered them sufficient +accommodation. The greyhounds, three sorts, sixty-seven in number, were +brought down on leashes by threes, fours or fives, and loaded in two +cars. Sixty saddle and draft horses, with saddles, wagons and hunting +paraphernalia, were also loaded. Finally the forty-four gray and green +uniformed huntsmen, beaters, drivers and ourselves were ready, and the +motley train moved away amid the uttered and unuttered benedictions of +the families and relatives of the parting hunt. + +Our first destination was Peschalkino, in the government of Tver, near +the River Leet, a tributary of the Volga, not far from the site of the +first considerable check of the Mongolian advance about 1230. I mention +this fact in passing to give some idea of the _terrain_, because I think +that it is evident to anyone who has visited this region that the +difficulty of provisioning and of transportation in these marshes must +have offered a greater obstacle to an invading army than did the then +defenders of their country. + +We passed our time most agreeably in playing vint[3] and talking of +hunting incidents along the route. Many interesting things were told +about the habits of wolves and other game, and, as they were vouched for +by two thorough gentlemen and superb sportsmen, and were verified as far +as a month's experience in the field would permit, I feel authorized to +cite them as facts. + + [3] Vint--game of cards resembling whist, boaston and _préférence_. + +The bear has been called in folk-lore the moujik's brother, and it must +be conceded that there are outward points of resemblance, especially +when each is clad in winter attire; moreover the moujik, when all is +snow and ice, fast approximates the hibernating qualities of the bear. +One strong point of difference is the accentuated segregative character +of the former, who always live in long cabin villages.[4] + + [4] The bear is caricatured in Russian publications as a humorous, + light-hearted, joking creature, conversing and making common sport + with the golden-hearted moujik, his so-called brother. + +But it is rather of the wolf's habits and domestic economy that I wish +to speak--of him who has always been the dreaded and accursed enemy of +the Russian peasant. In the question of government the wolf follows very +closely the system of the country, which is pre-eminently +patriarchal--the fundamental principle of the _mir_. A family of wolves +may vary in number from six to twenty, and contain two to four +generations, usually two or three, yet there is always one chief and one +wife--in other words, never more than one female with young ones. When +larger packs have been seen together it was probably the temporary +marshaling of their forces for some desperate raid or the preliminaries +of an anarchistic strike. The choruses of wolves and the special +training of the young for them are interesting characteristics. Upon +these choruses depends the decision of the hunter whether or not to make +his final attack upon the stronghold of the wolves; by them he can tell +with great precision the number in the family and the ages of the +different members. They are to wolf-hunters what tracks are to moose- and +bear-hunters--they serve to locate the game. When the family is at home +they occur with great regularity at twilight, midnight and dawn. + +In camp near Billings, Montana, in the fall of 1882, we heard nightly +about 12 o'clock the howling of a small pack of coyotes; but we supposed +that it was simply a "howling protest" against the railway train, +passing our camp at midnight, that had just reached that part of the +world. Possibly our coyotes have also howling choruses at regular +intervals, like the Russian wolves. + +There was such a fascination in listening to the wolves that we went out +several times solely for that purpose. The weirdness of the sound and +the desolateness of the surroundings produced peculiar sensations upon +the listener. To an enthusiastic lover of sport and nature these +pleasurable sensations might be well compared with the effect of the +Niebelungen songs upon an ardent Wagnerite. The old professional +huntsmen could tell just what members of the family and how many were +howling; they scarcely disagreed upon these points. + +These old hunters pretended to interpret the noisy assemblies of the +wolves as regards content or discontent, satisfaction or +dissatisfaction. + +Owing to the difficulty of securing wolves under most favorable +circumstances, especially old ones, it would be considered folly to make +a drive if the matinal howl had not been heard. But to make a successful +drive in a large marshy forest many beaters must be employed, and, as +they are gathered from far and near, considerable time is necessary to +collect them; therefore it is almost essential to know that the wolves +were "at home" at midnight as well as dawn. + +While in the vicinity of a certain wolf family whose habitat was an +enormous marshy wood, entirely impossible to mounted men, we were +compelled to await for forty-eight hours the return of the old ones, +father and mother. At times during this wait only the young ones, at +other times the young and the intermediate ones, would sing. Not hearing +the old ones, we inferred they were absent, and so they were--off on a +raid, during which they killed two peasant horses ten miles from their +stronghold. It was supposed that the wolves of intermediate age also +made excursions during this time, as indicated by the howlings, but not +to such great distances as the old ones. It was perfectly apparent, as +we listened one evening, that the old ones had placed the young ones +about a verst away and were making them answer independently. This +seemed too human for wolves. + +After one day and two nights of travel we arrived at the little station +of Peschalkino, on the Bologoe-Rybinsk Railway, not far from the +frontier between the two governments, Tver and Yaroslav, where we were +met by two officers of the guard, a Yellow Cuirassier and a +Preobiajensky, on leave of absence on their estates (Koy), sixteen +versts from the rail. They were brothers-in-law and keen sportsmen, who +became members of our party and who indicated the best localities for +game on their property, as well as on the adjoining estates. + +Peschalkino boasts a painted country tavern of two stories, the upper of +which, with side entrance, we occupied, using our own beds and bed +linen, table and table linen, cooking and kitchen utensils; in fact, it +was a hotel where we engaged the walled-in space and the brick cooking +stove. As to the huntsmen and the dogs, they were quartered in the +adjacent unpainted log-house peasant village--just such villages as are +seen all over Russia, in which a mud road, with plenty of mud, comprises +all there is of streets and avenues. After having arranged our temporary +domicile, and having carefully examined horses and dogs to see how they +had endured the journey, we made ready to accept a dinner invitation at +the country place of our new members. Horses were put to the brake, +called by the Russians _Amerikanka_ (American), and we set out for a +drive of sixteen versts over a mud road to enjoy the well-known Slav +hospitality so deeply engrafted in the Ponamaroff family. + +I said road, but in reality it scarcely merits the name, as it is +neither fenced nor limited in width other than by the sweet will of the +traveler. Special mention is made of this road because its counterparts +exist all over the empire. It is the usual road, and not the exception, +which is worse, as many persons have ample reasons for knowing. This +condition is easily explained by the scarcity of stone, the inherent +disregard of comfort, the poverty of the peasants, the absence of a +yeoman class, and the great expense that would be entailed upon the +landed proprietors, who live at enormous distances from each other. The +country in these and many other governments has been civilized many +generations, but so unfinished and primitive does it all seem that it +recalls many localities of our West, where civilization appeared but +yesterday, and where to-morrow it will be well in advance of these +provinces. The hand-flail, the wooden plow-share, the log cabin with +stable under the same roof, could have been seen here in the twelfth +century as they are at present. Thanks to the Moscow factories, the gala +attire of the peasant of to-day may possibly surpass in brilliancy of +color that of his remote ancestry, which was clad entirely from the home +loom. With the exception of the white brick churches, whose tall green +and white spires in the distance appear at intervals of eight to ten +versts, and of occasional painted window casings, there is nothing to +indicate that the colorings of time and nature are not preferable to +those of art. The predominating features of the landscape are the +windmills and the evenness of the grain-producing country, dotted here +and there by clumps of woods, called islands. The churches, too, are +conspicuous by their number, size, and beauty of architecture; +school-houses, by their absence. Prior to 1861 there must have been a +veritable mania here for church-building. The large and beautiful church +at Koy, as well as two other pretentious brick ones, were constructed on +his estates by the grandfather of our host. + +Arrived at Koy, we found a splendid country place, with brick buildings, +beautiful gardens, several hot-houses and other luxuries, all of which +appeared the more impressive by contrast. The reception and hospitality +accorded us at Koy--where we were highly entertained with singing, +dancing and cards until midnight--was as bounteous as the darkness and +rainfall which awaited us on the sixteen versts' drive over roadless +roads back to our quarter bivouac at Peschalkino. + +The following morning marked the beginning of our hunting. About 10 +o'clock all was in readiness. Every hunter[5] had been provided with a +leash, a knife and a whip; and, naturally, every huntsman with the two +latter. In order to increase the number of posts, some of the huntsmen +were also charged with leashes of greyhounds. I shall in the future use +the word greyhound to describe all the sight hounds, in +contradistinction to fox-hound; it includes barzois (Russian +greyhounds), greyhounds (English) and crosses between the two. The +barzois numbered about 75 per cent. of all the greyhounds, and were for +the most part somewhat less speedy than the real greyhounds, but better +adapted for wolf-hunting. They also have greater skill in taking hold, +and this, even in hare coursing, sometimes gives them advantage over +faster dogs. One of the most interesting features of the coursing was +the matching of Russian and English greyhounds. The leash system used in +the field offers practically the same fairness as is shown by dogs at +regular coursing matches. The leash is a black narrow leather thong +about fifteen feet long, with a loop at one end that passes over the +right shoulder and under the left arm. The long thong with a slit at the +end, forming the hand loop, is, when not in use, folded up like a lariat +or a driving rein, and is stuck under the knife belt. To use it, the end +is put through the loop-ring collars, which the greyhounds continually +wear, and is then held fast in the left hand until ready to slip the +hounds. Where the country is at all brushy, three dogs are the practical +limit of one leash, still for the most part only two are employed. It is +surprising to see how quickly the dogs learn the leash with mounted +huntsmen; two or three days are sufficient to teach them to remain at +the side of the horse and at a safe distance from his feet. Upon seeing +this use of the leash with two dogs each, I was curious to know why it +should be so; why it would not be more exciting to see half a dozen or +more hounds in hot pursuit racing against each other and having a common +goal, just as it is more exciting to see a horse race with a numerous +entry than merely with two competitors. This could have been remedied, +so I thought, by having horsemen go in pairs, or having several dogs +when possible on one leash. Practice showed the wisdom of the methods +actually employed. In the first place, it is fairer for the game; in the +second, it saves the dogs; and finally, it allows a greater territory to +be hunted over with the same number of dogs. + + [5] Hunter-gentleman, huntsman, man of the hunt--conventional terms. + +There are two ways of hunting foxes and hares, and, with certain +variations, wolves also. These are, by beating and driving with +fox-hounds, and by open driving with greyhounds alone. In the first case +a particular wood (island) is selected, and the fox-hounds with their +mounted huntsmen are sent to drive it in a certain direction. The +various leashes of greyhounds (barzois alone if wolves be expected) are +posted on the opposite side, at the edge of the wood or in the field, +and are loosed the second the game has shown its intention of clearing +the open space expressly selected for the leash. The mounted beaters +with the fox-hounds approach the thick woods of evergreens, cottonwood, +birch and undergrowth, and wait on its outskirts until a bugle signal +informs them that all the greyhound posts are ready. The fox-hounds +recognize the signal, and would start immediately were they not +terrorized by the black _nagaika_--a product of a country that has from +remotest times preferred the knout[6] to the gallows, and so is skilled +in its manufacture and use. At the word _go_ from the chief beater the +seventy fox-hounds, which have been huddled up as closely as the +encircling beaters could make them, rush into the woods. In a few +minutes, sometimes seconds, the music begins--and what music! I really +think there are too many musicians, for the voices not being classified, +there is no individuality, but simply a prolonged howl. For my part, I +prefer fewer hounds, where the individual voices may be distinguished. +It seemed to be a needless use of so many good dogs, for half the number +would drive as well; but they were out for exercise and training, and +they must have it. Subsequently the pack was divided into two, but this +was not necessitated by fatigue of the hounds, for we hunted on +alternate days with greyhounds alone. + + [6] Though not pertinent to the subject, I cannot refrain from + relating a curious comparison made to me by a very intelligent + Russian, aide-de-camp general of the late Emperor: "Just as the + scarcity of women in early American times caused them to be highly + appreciated and tenderly cared for, so the relative scarcity of men in + early Russia caused the Government to appreciate them and to preserve + them at all hazards. Logically follows the exalted position of woman + to-day in the United States and the absence of capital punishment in + Russia." + +One could well believe that foxes might remain a long time in the woods, +even when pursued by such noise; but it seemed to me that the hares[7] +would have passed the line of posts more quickly than they did. At the +suitable moment, when the game was seen, the nearest leash was slipped, +and when they seemed to be on the point of losing another and sometimes +a third was slipped. The poor fox-hounds were not allowed to leave the +woods; the moment the game appeared in the open space they were driven +back by the stiff riders with their cruel whips. The true fox-hound +blood showed itself, and to succeed in beating some of them off the +trail, especially the young ones, required most rigorous action on the +part of all. This seemed to me a prostitution of the good qualities of a +race carefully bred for centuries, and, while realizing the necessity of +the practice for that variety of hunt, I could never look upon it with +complaisance. + + [7] There are two varieties: the so-called white hare and the + so-called red hare. The former becomes white in winter, and weighs, + when full grown, ten pounds; the latter has a reddish gray coat which + does not change, and weighs about one and a half pounds less than the + other variety. The red hare frequents the fields less than does the + white. The foxes are the ordinary red ones. + +It is just this sort of hunt[8] for which the barzoi has been specially +bred, and which has developed in him a tremendous spring; at the same +time it has given him less endurance than the English greyhound. It was +highly interesting to follow the hounds with the beaters; but, owing to +the thickness of the woods and the absence of trails, it was far from +being an easy task either for horse or rider. To remain at a post with a +leash of hounds was hardly active or exciting enough for me--except when +driving wolves--especially when the hounds could be followed, or when +the open hunt could be enjoyed. In the second case the hunters and +huntsmen with leashes form a line with intervals of 100 to 150 yards and +march for versts straight across the country, cracking the terrible +_nagaika_ and uttering peculiar exciting yells that would start game on +a parade ground. After a few days I flattered myself that I could +manage my leash fairly and slip them passably well. To two or three of +the party leashes were not intrusted, either because they did not desire +them or for their want of experience in general with dogs and horses. To +handle a leash well requires experience and considerable care. To +prevent tangling in the horse's legs, especially at the moment the game +is sighted, requires that the hounds be held well in hand, and that they +be not slipped until both have sighted the game. I much prefer the open +hunt to the post system. There is more action, and in fact more sport, +whether it happens that one or several leashes be slipped for the same +animal. When it is not possible to know whose dogs have taken the game, +it belongs to him who arrived first, providing that he has slipped his +leash. + + [8] In Northern Russia, owing to the extensive forest, brush and marsh + lands, every effort was made to utilize the small open spaces or + clearings for the greyhounds, and this was the usual way of hunting; + while in Southern Russia, where steppes predominate, the open + hunt--_chasse à courre_--prevailed. This explains why the Crimean + barzoi also has more endurance than the now recognized type from the + north. + +So much for the foxes and hares, but the more interesting hunting of +wolves remains. Few people except wolf-hunters--and they are reluctant +to admit it--know how rarely old wolves are caught with hounds. All +admit the danger of taking an old one either by a dagger thrust or alive +from under[9] barzois, however good they be. There is always a +possibility that the dogs may loosen their hold or be thrown off just at +the critical moment. But the greatest difficulty consists in the +inability of the hounds to hold the wolf even when they have overtaken +him. When it is remembered that a full-grown wolf is nearly twice as +heavy as the average barzoi, and that pound for pound he is stronger, it +is clear that to overtake and hold him requires great speed and grit on +the part of a pair of hounds. + + [9] This is the Russian phrasing, and correctly describes the idea. + +A famous kennel,[10] which two years since caught forty-six wolves by +the combined system of hunting, took in that number but one old +wolf--that is, three years or more old. The same kennel last year caught +twenty-six without having a single old one in the number. We likewise +failed to include in our captures a single old wolf. I mention these +facts to correct the false impression that exists with us concerning the +barzois, as evidenced by the great disappointment when two years since a +pair, in one of the Western States, failed to kill outright a full-grown +timber wolf. At the field trials on wolves, which take place twice a +year at Colomiaghi, near Petersburg, immediately after the regular +field trials on hares, I have seen as many as five leashes slipped +before an old wolf could be taken, and then it was done only with the +greatest difficulty. In fact, as much skill depends upon the _borzatnik_ +(huntsman) as the dogs. Almost the very second the dogs take hold he +simply falls from his horse upon the wolf and endeavors to thrust the +unbreakable handle of his _nagaika_ between the jaws of the animal; he +then wraps the lash around the wolf's nose and head. If the hounds are +able to hold even a few seconds, the skilled _borzatnik_ has had +sufficient time, but there is danger even to the best. I saw an +experienced man get a thumb terribly lacerated while muzzling a wolf, +yet he succeeded, and in an incredibly short time. On another occasion, +even before the brace of hounds had taken firm neck or ear holds, I saw +a bold devil of a huntsman swing from his horse and in a twinkling lie +prone upon an old wolf's head. How this man, whose pluck I shall always +admire, was able to muzzle the brute without injury to himself, and with +inefficient support from his hounds, it is not easy to understand, +though I was within a few yards of the struggle. Such skill comes from +long experience, indifference to pain and, of course, pride in his +profession. + + [10] That of the Grand Duke Nicolas Nicolaievitch. + +Having hunted foxes and hares, and having been shooting as often as the +environs of Peschalkino and our time allowed, we changed our base to a +village twenty-two versts distant over the border in the government of +Yaroslav. It was a village like all others of this grain and flax +district, where the live stock and poultry shared the same roof with +their owners. A family of eleven wolves had been located about three +versts from it by a pair of huntsmen sent some days in advance; this +explained our arrival. In making this change, I do not now recall that +we saw a single house other than those of the peasant villages and the +churches. I fancy that in the course of time these peasants may have +more enlightenment, a greater ownership in the land, and may possibly +form a yeoman class. At the present the change, slow as it is, seems to +point in that direction. With their limited possessions, they are happy +and devoted subjects. The total of the interior decorations of every +house consists of icons, of cheap colored pictures of the imperial +family and of samovars. In our lodgings, the house of the village +_starost_, the three icons consumed a great part of the wall surface, +and were burdened with decorations of various colored papers. No one has +ever touched upon peasant life in Russia without mentioning the enormous +brick stove (_lezanka_[11]); and having on various hunts profited by +them, I mean to say a word in behalf of their advantages. Even as early +as the middle of September the cold continuous rains cause the gentle +warmth of the _lezanka_ to be cordially appreciated. On it and in its +vicinity all temperatures may be found. Its top offers a fine place for +keeping guns, ammunition and various articles free from moisture, and +for drying boots;[12] while the horizontal abutments constitute benches +well adapted to thawing out a chilled marrow, or a sleeping place for +those that like that sort of thing. A generous space is also allowed for +cooking purposes. In point of architecture there is nothing that can be +claimed for it but stability; excepting the interior upper surface of +the oven, there is not a single curve to break its right lines. It +harmonizes with the surroundings, and in a word answers all the +requirements of the owner as well as of the hunter, who always +preserves a warm remembrance of it. + + [11] _Lezanka_ means something used for lying on. + + [12] Hot oats poured into the boots were also used for drying them. + +The wolves were located in a large marshy wood and, from information of +the scouts based on the midnight and dawn choruses, they were reported +"at home." Accordingly we prepared for our visit with the greatest +precautions. When within a verst of the proposed curved line upon which +we were to take our stands with barzois, all dismounted and proceeded +through the marsh on foot, making as little noise as possible. The +silence was occasionally broken by the efforts of the barzois to slip +themselves after a cur belonging to one of the peasant beaters, that +insisted upon seeing the sport at the most aggravating distance for a +sight hound. It was finally decided to slip one good barzoi that, it was +supposed, could send the vexatious animal to another hunting ground; but +the cur, fortunately for himself, suddenly disappeared and did not show +himself again. + +After wading a mile in the marshy bog, we were at the beginning of the +line of combat--if there was to be any. The posts along this line had +been indicated by the chief huntsman by blazing the small pine trees or +by hanging a heap of moss on them. The nine posts were established in +silence along the arc of a circle at distances from each other of about +150 yards. My post was number four from the beginning. In rear of it and +of the adjoining numbers a strong high cord fence was put up, because it +was supposed that near this part of the line the old wolves would pass, +and that the barzois might not be able to stop them. The existence of +such fencing material as part of the outfit of a wolf-hunter is strong +evidence of his estimate of a wolf's strength--it speaks pages. The +fence was concealed as much as possible, so that the wolf with barzois +at his heels might not see it. The huntsmen stationed there to welcome +him on his arrival were provided with fork-ended poles, intended to hold +him by the neck to the ground until he was gagged and muzzled, or until +he had received a fatal dagger thrust. + +While we were forming the ambuscade--defensive line--the regular +beaters, with 200 peasant men and women, and the fox-hounds, were +forming the attack. + +Everything seemed favorable except the incessant cold rain and wind. In +our zeal to guard the usual crossings of the wolves, we ignored the +direction of the wind, which the wolves, however, cleverly profited by. +It could not have been very long after the hounds were let go before +they fell upon the entire family of wolves, which they at once +separated. The shouts and screams of the peasants, mingled with the +noises of the several packs of hounds, held us in excited attention. Now +and then this or that part of the pack would approach the line, and, +returning, pass out of hearing in the extensive woods. The game had +approached within scenting distance, and, in spite of the howling in the +rear, had returned to depart by the right or left flank of the beaters. +As the barking of the hounds came near the line, the holders of the +barzois, momentarily hoping to see a wolf or wolves, waited in almost +breathless expectancy. Each one was prepared with a knife to rush upon +an old wolf to support his pair; but unfortunately only two wolves came +to our line, and they were not two years old. They were taken at the +extreme left flank, so far away that I could not even see the killing. I +was disappointed, and felt that a great mistake had been made in not +paying sufficient attention to the direction of the wind. Where is the +hunter who has not had his full share of disappointments when all +prospects seemed favorable? As often happens, it was the persons +occupying the least favorable places who had bagged the game. They said +that in one case the barzois had held the wolf splendidly until the +fatal thrust; but that in the other case it had been necessary to slip a +second pair before it could be taken. These young wolves were +considerably larger than old coyotes. + +[Illustration: FOXHOUNDS OF THE IMPERIAL KENNELS.] + +So great was the forest hunted that for nearly two hours we had occupied +our posts listening to the spasmodic trailing of the hounds and the +yelling of the peasants. Finally all the beaters and peasants reached +our line, and the drive was over, with only two wolves taken from the +family of eleven. Shivering with cold and thoroughly drenched, we +returned in haste to shelter and dry clothes. + +The following morning we set out on our return to Peschalkino, mounted, +with the barzois, while the fox-hounds were driven along the road. We +marched straight across the country in a very thin skirmish line, +regardless of fences, which were broken down and left to the owners to +be repaired. By the time we had reached our destination, we had enjoyed +some good sport and had taken several hares. The following morning the +master of the imperial hunt, who had been kept at his estates near +Moscow by illness in his family, arrived, fetching with him his horses +and a number of his own hounds. We continued our hunting a number of +days longer in that vicinity, both with and without fox-hounds, with +varying success. Every day or two we also indulged in shooting for +ptarmigan, black cocks, partridges, woodcocks and two kinds of +snipe--all of which prefer the most fatiguing marshes. + +One day our scouts arrived from Philipovo, twenty-six versts off, to +report that another family of wolves, numbering about sixteen, had been +located. The _Amerikanka_ was sent in advance to Orodinatovo, whither we +went by rail at a very early hour. This same rainy and cold autumnal +landscape would be intolerable were it not brightened here and there by +the red shirts and brilliant headkerchiefs of the peasants, the noise of +the flail on the dirt-floor sheds and the ever-alluring attractions of +the hunt. + +During this short railway journey, and on the ride to Philipovo, I could +not restrain certain reflections upon the life of the people and of the +proprietors of this country. It seemed on this morning that three +conditions were necessary to render a permanent habitation here +endurable: neighbors, roads and a change of latitude; of the first two +there are almost none, of latitude there is far too much. To be born in +a country excuses its defects, and that alone is sufficient to account +for the continuance of people under even worse conditions than those of +these governments. It is true that the soil here does not produce fruit +and vegetables like the Crimean coast, and that it does not, like the +black belt, "laugh with a harvest when tickled with a hoe"; yet it +produces, under the present system of cultivation, rye and flax +sufficient to feed, clothe and pay taxes. What more could a peasant +desire? With these provided his happiness is secured; how can he be +called poor? Without questioning this defense, which has been made many +times in his behalf, I would simply say that he is not poor as long as a +famine or plague of some sort does not arrive--and then proceed with our +journey. + +From Orodinatovo to Philipovo is only ten versts, but over roads still +less worthy of the name than the others already traveled. The +_Amerikanka_ was drawn by four horses abreast. The road in places +follows the River Leet, on which Philipovo is situated. We had expected +to proceed immediately to hunt the wolves, and nearly 300 peasant men +and women had been engaged to aid the fox-hounds as beaters. They had +been assembled from far and near, and were congregated in the only +street of Philipovo, in front of our future quarters, to await our +arrival. What a motley assembly, what brilliancy of coloring! All were +armed with sticks, and carried bags or cloths containing their rations +of rye bread swung from the shoulders, or around the neck and over the +back. How many pairs of boots were hung over the shoulders? Was it +really the custom to wear boots on the shoulders? In any case it was _de +rigueur_ that each one show that he or she possessed such a luxury as a +good pair of high top boots; but it was not a luxury to be abused or +recklessly worn out. Their system of foot-gear has its advantages in +that the same pair may be used by several members of a family, male and +female alike. + +It was not a pleasure for us to hear that the wolves had been at home at +twilight and midnight, but were not there at dawn; much less comforting +was this news to those peasants living at great distances who had no +place near to pass the night. The same information was imparted the +following day and the day following, until it began to appear doubtful +whether we could longer delay in order to try for this very migratory +pack. + +Our chances of killing old wolves depended largely upon this drive, for +it was doubtful whether we would make an attack upon the third family, +two days distant from our quarters. Every possible precaution was taken +to make it a success. I was, however, impressed with the fact that the +most experienced members of the hunting party were the least sanguine +about the old wolves. + +Some one remarked that my hunting knife, with a six-inch blade, was +rather short, and asked if I meant to try and take an old wolf. My reply +was in the affirmative, for my intentions at that stage were to try +anything in the form of a wolf. At this moment one of the land +proprietors, who had joined our party, offered to exchange knives with +me, saying that he had not the slightest intention of attacking a wolf +older than two years, and that my knife was sufficient for that. I +accepted his offer. + +At a very early hour on this cold rainy autumnal morning we set out on +our way to the marshy haunts of the game. Our party had just been +reinforced by the arrival of the commander of the Empress's Chevalier +Guard regiment, an ardent sportsman, with his dogs. All the available +fox-hounds, sixty in number, were brought out, and the 300 peasants +counted off. The latter were keen, not only because a certain part of +them had sportsmanlike inclinations, but also because each one received +thirty copecks for participation in the drive. Besides this, they were +interested in the extermination of beasts that were living upon their +live stock. + +The picture at the start was more than worthy of the results of the day, +and it remains fresh in my mind. The greater portion of the peasants +were taken in charge by the chief beater, with the hounds, while the +others followed along with us and the barzois. Silence was enforced upon +all. The line of posts was established as before, except that more care +was exercised. Each principal post, where three barzois were held on +leash, was strengthened by a man with a gun loaded with buckshot. The +latter had instructions not to fire upon a wolf younger than two years, +and not even upon an older one, until it was manifest that the barzois +and their holder were unequal to the task. + +My post was a good one, and my three dogs were apparently keen for +anything. At the slightest noise they were ready to drag me off my feet +through the marsh. Thanks to the _nagaika_, I was able to keep them in +hand. One of the trio was well known for his grit in attacking wolves, +the second was considered fair, while the third, a most promising +two-year-old, was on his first wolf-hunt. Supported by these three dogs, +the long knife of the gentleman looking for young wolves and the yellow +cuirassier officer with his shotgun, I longed for some beast that would +give a struggle. The peasants accompanying us were posted out on each +flank of our line, extending it until the extremities must have been +separated by nearly two miles. + +The signal was given, and hunters, peasants and hounds rushed into the +woods. Almost instantly we heard the screams and yells of the nearest +peasants, and in a short time the faint barking of the fox-hounds. As +the sounds became more audible, it was evident that the hounds had split +into three packs--conclusive that there were at least three wolves. My +chances were improving, and I was arranging my dogs most carefully, that +they might be slipped evenly. My knife, too, was within convenient +grasp, and the fox-hounds were pointing directly to me. Beastly luck! I +saw my neighbor, the hunter of young wolves, slip his barzois, and like +a flash they shot through the small pine trees, splashing as they went. +From my point of view they had fallen upon an animal that strongly +resembled one of themselves. In reality it was a yearling wolf, but he +was making it interesting for the barzois as well as for all who +witnessed the sight. The struggle did not last long, for soon two of the +barzois had fastened their long teeth in him--one at the base of the +ear, the other in the throat. Their holder hastened to the struggle, +about 100 yards from his post, and with my knife gave the wolf the _coup +de grace_. His dogs had first sighted the game, and therefore had the +priority of right to the chase. So long as the game was in no danger of +escaping no neighboring dogs should be slipped. His third barzoi, on +trial for qualifications as a wolf-hound, did not render the least aid. + +Part of the fox-hounds were still running, and there was yet chance that +my excited dogs might have their turn. We waited impatiently until all +sounds had died away and until the beaters had reached our line, when +further indulgence of hope was useless. Besides the above, the +fox-hounds had caught and killed a yearling in the woods; and Colonel +Dietz had taken with his celebrated Malodiets, aided by another dog, a +two-year-old. What had become of the other wolves and where were most of +the hounds? Without waiting to solve these problems, we collected what +we could of our outfit and returned to Philipovo, leaving the task of +finding the dogs to the whippers-in. The whys and wherefores of the hunt +were thoroughly discussed at dinner, and it was agreed that most of the +wolves had passed to the rear between the beaters. It was found out that +the peasants, when a short distance in the woods, had through fear +formed into squads instead of going singly or in pairs. This did not, +however, diminish the disappointment at not taking at least one of the +old ones. + +The result of this drive logically brought up the question of the best +way to drive game. In certain districts of Poland deer are driven from +the line of posts, and the same can be said of successful moose-hunts of +Northern Russia. Perhaps that way may also be better for wolves. + +After careful consideration of the hunting situation, we were unanimous +in preferring hare and fox coursing with both fox-hounds and barzois, or +with the latter alone, at discretion, to the uncertainty of +wolf-hunting; so we decided to change our locality. Accordingly the +following day we proceeded in the _Amerikanka_ to the town of Koy, +twenty-five versts distant. We arrived about noon, and were quartered in +a vacant house in the large yard of Madam Ponamaroff. Our retinue of +huntsmen, dogs, horses, ambulance and wagons arrived an hour later. + +There was no more wolf-hunting. + +_Henry T. Allen._ + + + + +A Bear-Hunt in the Sierras + + +A few years ago, a friend and I were cruising for our amusement in +California, with outfit of our own, consisting of three pack horses, two +saddle animals, tent and camp furnishings. We had started from Los +Angeles; had explored various out-of-the-way passes and valleys in the +San Bernardino and San Rafael Mountains, taking care the while to keep +our camp supplied with game; had killed deer and exceptionally fine +antelope in the hills adjoining the Mojave Desert; had crossed the San +Joaquin Valley and visited the Yosemite, where the good fortune of +finding the Half Dome, with the Anderson rope, carried away by ice, gave +us the opportunity for one delicious climb in replacing it. + +Returning to Fresno, we had sold our ponies and ended our five months' +jaunt. My friend had gone East, and I had accepted the invitation of a +member of the Union Club in San Francisco, to whom I bore a letter of +introduction, to accompany him upon a bear-hunt in the Sierras. He +explained to me that the limited extent of his ranch in the San Joaquin +Valley--a meager and restricted demesne of only 7,000 acres, consisting +of splendid pasturage and arable land--made it necessary for the sheep +to look elsewhere than at home for sustenance during the summer months. + +Many of the great ranches in the valley possessed prescriptive rights to +pasturage over vast tracts in the high Sierras. These, although not +recognized by the law, were at least ignored, and were sanctioned by +custom. The land belonged to nobody--that is, it belonged to Uncle Sam, +which, so far as a Texas or California stockman was concerned, amounted +to exactly the same thing. The owner of such a right to pasturage +zealously maintained his claim; and if, for any reason, he could not use +it himself during a particular season, he formally gave his consent to +some one else to enjoy the privilege in his stead. It was considered a +gross violation of etiquette for a stockman to trespass upon that +portion of the forest habitually used by other sheep. Such intrusions +did occur, particularly upon the part of Mexicans with small +flocks--"tramp sheep" they were called; but when the intruder was shot, +small sympathy accompanied him to the grave, and the deep damnation of +his taking off, in more senses than one, served as a salutary reminder +to other gentlemen with discourteous tendencies to maraud. The +consequence of all this was that a big ranchman spoke of his summer +range with the same sense of proprietorship and security of possession +as of his alfalfa field or pits of ensilage. + +We arrived at my friend's ranch in the evening, and the next morning but +one were in the saddle and on our way--it having been arranged that the +younger brother of my host was to take his place upon the hunt. As we +were to arrive at the sheep-herders' camps on the fourth day from the +ranch, no elaborate preparations were necessary; we took but a single +animal for the pack, besides the horses we rode. A Mexican herder, +Leonard, was the third member of the party--cook, packer, guide, general +storehouse of information and jest. The first night we camped in the +foot hills, in a grove of big-cone pines, curiously enough in the exact +place where, a fortnight before, my friend Proctor and I had pitched our +tent on the way from the Yosemite to Fresno, and which we had left +without the slightest expectation, on the part of either, of ever seeing +again. + +Little of the journey to the mountains remains in my memory. We passed a +great timber chute of astonishing length--twenty or forty miles, or +something of the sort--down which timber is floated from the great pine +and spruce forests to the railroad, with little trouble and at slight +expense; the water being of commercial value for purposes of irrigation +during the summer, and bringing a good price after it has fulfilled its +special function as carrier. The drinking water for my friend's ranch +was taken from this, a supply being drawn in the cool of the morning +sufficient to last throughout the day, and most grateful we found it +during sultry August days in a part of the country where ice is not to +be procured. + +Each of the four days of our journey we were climbing higher among the +mountains, into a thinner and more invigorating atmosphere. The days +were hot so long as one remained exposed to the sun, but the shadows +were cool and the nights most refreshing. Upon the last morning of our +journey, crossing a mountain creek, my attention was called to a rude +bridge, where had occurred a battle of the ranchmen upon the occasion of +an attempted entry by a "tramp" owner with his flock into somebody's +"summer range." The intruder was killed, and I believe in this +particular instance the possessor of the unwritten right of exclusive +pasturage upon Government land found the laws of California awkward to +deal with; not so deadly, it may be, as a six-shooter, but expensive and +discouraging to quiet pastoral methods. + +Another point of interest was Rattlesnake Rock, which we rounded upon +the trail. This was a spot peculiarly sheltered and favored by the +winds, the warmest corner that snakes wot of, and here they assemble for +their winter's sleep. In the mild days of early spring, when the rest of +the world is still frozen and forbidden, this one little nook, catching +all the sun, is thawed and genial. From beneath the ledge crawl forth +into the warmth great store of rattlers, big and little. Coming out from +the Yosemite Valley, I had killed one quite four feet in length and of +exactly the same girth as my wrist, which I was assured was not at all +an extraordinary size for them "in these parts." Near this rock, in an +unfeeling manner, I shot the head off another big one, and he will no +longer attend the yearly meeting of his kind at Rattlesnake Rock. + +Upon this stage of our journey we met no one, yet the noble forest of +spruce through which we were traveling bore only too plainly the signs +of man's presence in the past, and of his injurious disregard of the +future. Everywhere were the traces of fire. The trees of the Sierras, at +the elevation at which we were, an altitude of 8,000 or 10,000 feet, +grow more sparsely than in any forest to which we are accustomed in the +East. Their dry and unimpeded spaces seem like heaven to the hunter +familiar only with the tangled and perplexing undergrowth of the "North +Woods," where the midday shadow, the thick underbrush, the uneven and +wet, mossy surface, except upon some remote hardwood ridge, are the +unvarying characteristics. In the Rocky Mountains, and that part of the +Sierras with which I am familiar, it is quite different. In California +the trees do not crowd and jostle one another, but have regard for the +sacredness of the person so far as the mutual relation of one and all +are concerned. Broad patches of sunshine beneath the trees encourage the +growth of rich grasses, none so sweet as those which are found at a +great altitude; and, although the prevailing tint under foot is that of +the reddish earth, tufts of succulent feed abound sufficient to repay +the sheep for cruising everywhere, while occasional glades furnish the +most delicious and abundant pasturage. As in every forest, the processes +of nature are slow--it takes a long time for the dead past to bury its +dead. On every side lie fallen trees; and a generation of rain and snow, +sunshine and wind and tempest, must elapse before these are rotted away, +and by the enrichment of the soil can furnish nourishment and life to +their progeny and successors. Naturally these trees are a hindrance and +annoyance to the sheep herder; they separate his flock and greatly +increase his labors. The land is not even his master's, whose one idea +is temporary gain, hence there is no restraining influence whatever for +their preservation. "So long as it lasts my lifetime, what matter?" is +the prevailing sentiment. + +As there is no rain during the summer months, the fallen trees become +perfectly dry; a handful of lighted twigs is all that is required to set +fire to them, when they blaze or smoulder until consumed. Owing to the +absence of underbrush, forest fires are far less common than would be +expected; but, of course, the soil is impoverished by the deprivation of +its natural enrichment, the decaying wood, and the centuries to come +will there, as well nigh everywhere in our country, point the finger of +scorn at our spendthrift forestry. + +Although this is the chief economic injury, the beauty of the woods is +sadly marred; all large game is frightened away, except the bear, which +is half human and half hog in his methods, and minds it not at all--in +fact, finds the presence of man perfectly intelligible, and his fat +flocks a substantial addition to his own bill of fare. Leonard pointed +out to us a certain mountain shrub, a rank poison to sheep. Every +cluster of it in his range is known to the herder, who keeps the sheep +in his charge at a safe distance. This is one of his important duties; +for, if a sheep eats of this plant, he is a "goner." + +In one particular the pasturage of the high Sierras has greatly +suffered. The ranchmen naturally wish to get their sheep off the home +range as early in the spring as possible--in fact, the last month there +is one of starvation. The new crops have not yet grown, nothing remains +standing of the old but a few dead stalks of weeds, the supply of +alfalfa cut the year before has long since been exhausted, and, +metaphorically speaking, the sheep and cattle have to dine, as the +hungry Indian is said to do, by tightening his belt half a dozen holes +and thinking of what he had to eat week before last. Only the weaklings +die, however; the others become lean and restless, and as eager as their +masters to start for the mountains. The journey supplies them with scant +pickings, just enough to keep body and soul together, but morally it is +a relief from the monotony of starvation at home, and they work their +way stubbornly and expectantly up the mountains and into the forest as +soon as the sun permits and anything has grown for them to eat. The +consequence of this close grazing is that certain species of the grasses +upon which they feed are never allowed to come to flower and mature +their seed; hence those with a delicate root, the more strictly annual +varieties, which rely upon seed for perpetuation of the plant, have a +hard time of it. Where the sheep range, the wild timothy, for example--a +dwarf variety and an excellent, sweet grass--has almost disappeared, +although formerly it grew in abundance. + +The forest glades through which we passed had the appearance of a +closely-cropped pasture, as different as possible from the profusion of +tall grasses and beautiful flowering plants which grow in similar +openings untroubled by sheep. So far as the grasses are concerned--or +"grass," by which, I take it, is ordinarily designated the foliage of +the plant--I doubt if it is molested to any great extent by deer. Their +diet is mainly the tender leaves of plants--"weeds" to the unscientific +person. The heads of wild oats and of a few of the grasses might prove +sufficiently sweet and tempting to arrest their fancy; but as for +grazing, as sheep or cattle do, it is not their habit. When deer shall +have come to trudge up hill in the plodding gait of the domestic beasts, +and shall have abandoned their present method of ascending by a series +of splendid springing leaps and bounds, the very embodiment of vigor and +of wild activity, time enough then for them to take to munching grass, +the sustenance of the harmless, necessary cow. At present they are most +fastidious in their food, and select only the choicest, tenderest tips +and sweetest tufts of herbage, picking them here and there, wandering +and meditating as they eat. I will not say that they never touch grass, +for I have seen deer feeding among cattle in the open, but it is not by +any means the chief article of their diet, and when they partake of it +under such circumstances, it is more as a gratification of their social +instincts, I think, than from any particular love of the food itself. + +A little before noon upon the fourth day, we arrived at one of the sheep +camps, to which we had been directed by a stray herd, and where we were +to find the foreman of the sheep gang. At that hour of the day there +were naturally in camp but a few men. The cook was there, of course. His +functions were simple enough--to make bread, tea, and boil mutton, or +bake it in a Mexican oven beneath the coals. With him was the chief +herder and a half-witted Portuguese, who, upon the day following, in the +plenitude of his zeal and mental deficiency, insisted upon offering +himself as live bait for a grizzly, as will be narrated. + +During the afternoon I strolled further up the mountain with my rifle, +in the hope of a shot at a stray deer, and to have a look at the lay of +the land. Bear tracks I saw and a little deer sign also, but it was too +early in the day regularly to hunt. All nature nodded in the dozy glare +of the August afternoon, and after the hot journey in the saddle I found +a siesta under the clean spruce trees refreshing. Toward sunset I awoke +to find a pine martin in a tree across the gulch reconnoitering, and +evidently turning over in his mind the probabilities whether the big +creature curled up on the hillside "forninst" him were of the cast of +hunter or hunted. I soon brought him out of that, and upon my return to +camp the hide was graciously accepted by the chief herder, who converted +the head of it into a tobacco pouch with neatness and dispatch. At the +evening meal there were good-natured references to _chile con +oso_--bear's meat cooked with red peppers--regret expressed that the +camp's larder could at present afford none, and expressions of +confidence that this delicacy would soon be set before us--all most +politely and comfortably insinuated. They had the gratification of their +desire; it was on the next day but one. + +That night there was a great jabbering of bad Spanish around the +camp-fire. Had this been the rendezvous of Sicilian brigands, it +doubtless would have had a slightly more picturesque appearance, but the +difference would have been only of degree, not at all of kind. The +absence of rain made tents unnecessary. Piles of bedding, of cooking and +riding equipment, defined the encampment. Around the fire a dozen +Mexicans clustered, of whom, except the chief herder and Leonard, not +one spoke English. They wore the broad hats of their race, and were +arrayed for protection against the cool night winds of the Sierras in +old and shabby cloaks, some of which had been originally bright in +color, but now were subdued by age and dirt into comfortable harmony +with the quiet tones of the mountain and the forest. Old quilts and +sheepskins carpeted a small space where we had been invited to seat +ourselves upon our arrival. Then, as throughout our stay, every possible +mark of hospitality was shown us--a delicious, faint survival of +Castilian courtesy. + +Long after I had turned in, somewhere in the dead vast and middle of the +night, I was aroused by the sound of scurry and scampering among the +bunch of sheep which was rounded up near the camp. Experience has +taught these creatures to efface themselves at night, and they are only +too glad to sleep quietly, as near as possible to humans, with no +disposition to wander after dark. They realize their danger from bears, +yet the protection which a Mexican affords is a purely imaginary thing, +as unsubstantial as the baseless fabric of a vision, of as little real +substance for the protection of the flock as the dream of mutton stew +and fat bear, by no means a baseless fabric, which engrosses the +sleeping shepherd, body and mind. The disturbance upon this occasion +soon subsided. One and another of the shepherds sleepily moved in his +blankets--perhaps swore to himself a hurried prayer or two--but not one +of them spoke aloud or indicated the slightest intention of +investigating the cause of the commotion. Only too well they and the +sheep knew what it signified. Quiet reigned again, and, attaching no +importance to the incident, I was promptly asleep. + +In the morning I learned that the disturbing cause had been the charge +of a grizzly into the flock within a stone's throw of us, a sound too +familiar to occasion comment at the time. There were the tracks, to +leeward of the sheep, of a she grizzly and two cubs. Their approach had +been without a sound; not the snap of a twig, or the faintest footfall, +had given any signal of their presence. The mother had critically +overhauled the flock in her mind from a slight rise of ground, on a +level with their backs or slightly higher, and made deliberate choice of +a fat wether, having a discriminating eye, and being too good a judge of +sheep flesh to take any but such as are in prime condition. A single +quick rush and she has secured her victim, in an instant, before the +rest are fairly upon their feet, and is off, carrying the sheep in her +mouth as easily as a cat would her kitten, her delighted cubs trotting +behind. Every two or three nights this occurrence was repeated, with no +interference upon the part of the Mexicans. "What recks it them?" "The +hungry sheep look up and are not fed." On the contrary, the bears are. +As for the Mexicans, they have "lost no bear!" To have seen the intruder +would have been only a gratuitous anxiety, since nothing in the world +would have tempted them to fire at it. Should they risk life and limb +for a sheep? and that the _patron's_, who had so many! It was not their +quarrel! The charge of the grizzly was a thing as much to be accepted as +an incident of the Sierras as the thunderbolt--equally dangerous to him +who should interfere as the lightning stroke to one daring to interpose +his rifle between the angry heavens and the fore-doomed tree. + +We may feel sure that the lesson is not lost upon the cubs. They are +taught energy, sagacity, craft in maturing their plans, courage and +promptness in their execution. They are taught reverence for the ursine +genius, unbounded admiration for their mother's leadership and +steadiness of nerve, at the same time that they are taught contempt for +the stupidity of sheep and the pusillanimity of humans. It may be that +an apologist for the latter might find a word to mitigate their too +severe sentence. A she grizzly of the Sierras, at night, with hungry +cubs to feed, is not an altogether pleasant thing to face when +infuriated by wounds, none of which may be bad enough to cripple her, +yet combined are amply sufficient to make her pretty cross and +dangerous. The Mexican is a poor shot, but what can you expect? His +vocation is a humble one. Were he of more positive and determined +temperament, he would be a _vaquero_ of the plains, or _boyero_ +(_Anglicè_ "bull-whacker") on the Santa Fé trail or down in old Mexico; +and not the dry nurse of these "woolly idiots," in whose race, for +innumerable centuries, man has elaborately cultivated stupidity, and, by +systematic process of artificial selection, has faithfully eliminated +every sign of insubordination and the last trace of individuality of +temperament, and that which in our race is called character. No +native-born white man in this country can be induced to follow, for any +length of time, the vocation of shepherd. The deadly monotony of the +occupation drives him either to imbecility or desperation. It is well +known that men who habitually care for any animal come in time to +resemble him. Stable boys, bred to the vocation of groom, become +horse-faced and equine of disposition, eventually they wheeze and +whistle like a curry-comb. Cowboys partake of the scatter-brained +recklessness of the Texas steer which they tend. No one can admit dogs +to be daily and familiar companions without absorbing into his system +somewhat of their sense of humor and of their faithfulness. The +lion-tamer, who enters unscathed the den of his charge, must share the +robustious courage and determination of the beast with which he +associates. The rat-catcher, whether he be ferret or man, partakes of +the fierce slyness of the game he follows; and I remember that, years +ago, before I ever heard mention of this peculiarity of resemblance, I +could detect, plainly writ in the face of the attendant of "Mr. +Crowley," when he was kept in the old arsenal building in Central Park, +the reflected temperament and animalism of the poor, indolent, captive +chimpanzee, whose fellow and all too sympathetic friend he had made +himself. Naturalists are well aware of this phenomenon. + +If this be so, and stupidity catching, what more potent influence of +fatty degeneration of the intellect could there be than the +uninterrupted society of sheep, with nothing in the world to think of +except their care--without even the stimulating influence of gain to +redeem the paralyzing service. The sheep are not their own, and if the +bears eat them up the keepers do not feel the stimulating ache in their +money-pocket that might tempt them, however feebly, to resist +aggression. Moreover, as a rule, they are wretchedly armed. Each of +these men carried an old six-shooter of an outlandish and forgotten +pattern, good enough to try a chance shot at another Mexican with, but +only a source of more or less pleasurable titillation to a bear, were +one ever to be discharged at him, and about as effective as pelting an +alligator with strawberries. If the last stage of misery for a horse be +to drag, along its rigid road of stone and iron, the city horse-car with +its thankless freight of fares, the corresponding degradation of the +"gun" is to rest upon the hip of a degenerate sheep-herder, half +Spaniard, half Indian and half coyote. Any self-respecting weapon +reduced to such straits would be conscious of its low estate; its +magazine would revolve in a creaky, half-hearted, reluctant fashion; it +would doubtless fire an apologetic bullet; its report would be something +between "scat" and "beg your pardon," to which a bear would pay but +slight heed. Others of the Mexicans were armed with old muskets, +somewhat rusty and ramshackly, but with a furry longitudinal perforation +throughout their length, along which--it could not creditably be called +a bore--a ball could after a fashion, if you gave it time enough, be +propelled. Leonard was exceptionally fortunate in this respect; he +carried an old rim-fire .44-40 Winchester, the action of which +occasionally worked and occasionally did not. Comparatively speaking, he +was rather a swell in the matter of firearms; but if one should put his +trust in him in case of emergency as a sheet anchor to windward, there +was always the remote possibility, were the strain too intense, that he +might not be a dependence of absolute security. + +The afternoon of this day, much against my real inclination, but in +accordance with the prevailing desire, we started out, the whole rabble +of us, to follow the she grizzly's trail. It could not be called a +"still-hunt," for the reason that six men hunting in a pack are never +still; however, it did not matter. We found in a neighboring gulch bits +of the fleece, bones and hides of three sheep, and the sufficiently +plain evidence, upon the trampled and bloody ground, of recent feasts. +Yet this was the banqueting hall and not the children's nursery. A bear +thinks nothing of a little stroll of ten miles or so before or after +eating. It aids digestion, and in case of a female, as this was, wards +off an attack of the nerves. Particularly a bear with cubs would put at +least that distance between herself and hunters. Moreover they are so +clever that I doubt not this one knew already by scent and subtle +process of ratiocination how many of us there were in camp, where we +were from, the color of our hair, what sort of rifles we carried, their +caliber, how heavy a bullet and how many grains of powder they fired. +This is said in the light of after events and of further experience. + +That afternoon, in our unjustifiably sanguine forecast, we had hopes of +finding this particular bear. The half-witted "Portugee," of whom I have +spoken, showed especial zeal in the presence of the _patron_, and +insisted, in spite of mild and repeated caution, in going ahead and +scrupulously investigating every possible ambuscade where there was the +remotest chance of finding the bear, or, what was much more likely, of +the bear finding him. In consideration of the fact that this was a she +one which we were after, that she was proud and well fed, and on the +lookout for pursuit, had the "Portugee" found her, she would in all +probability have received his visit with cordial warmth. Not speaking +his tongue fluently, I was unable to express my solicitude except by +signs and admonitory gestures. The rest of the party apparently seemed +to think that, while the bear was interested and occupied with him, a +good opportunity would be offered for getting in a shot; and as +Portuguese were a drug in the market in that part of California, and +grizzly bears, dead, a great rarity, he was suffered to contribute his +mite to the success of _la chasse_, and all went merrily. Not a thicket +or a den did he leave unprobed. + +An hour or two were spent in beating up the gulch to its head. Then a +barren mountain side presented itself, three or four miles of it, with +no shelter. Leonard ran the trail here like a dog, literally ran it, and +the pack of hunters tailed behind him for a half or three-quarters of a +mile. A bit before sundown we were at the edge of the chaparral--a +tangle of bushes and quaking asp--rather a baddish place in which to +stumble upon her serene highness. However, my companions did me the +honor to promote me to the "Portugee's" place and function. With rifle +across the crook of arm, we stole as silently as might be--the United +States army would have made more noise--into the jungle. Sunset overtook +us up on the far edge, with a stretch of open forest in sight, and, I +doubt not, with Madam Bruin and her cubs miles ahead in some +inaccessible snarl of bushes, where the crackling underbrush would warn +her of approach as fully as could the most complete system of burglar +alarms. + +That night, leaving word that whoever might be the first to stir in the +morning should call me, I unrolled my blankets under a spruce somewhat +apart from the crowd, and was soon asleep. Before daylight I was astir, +had a cup of coffee and a bite, and was off. Upon the previous afternoon +I had picked the direction I would take, which was to skirt certain +openings in the forest below. Fresh sign I saw that assured me of the +excellence of the range for bear, but I encountered nothing alive worth +powder and ball, and returned to camp about 9 o'clock. I was greeted by +Leonard with the joyful news that during my absence he had seen from +camp a big bear cross the side of the mountain only a mile or so away, +and disappear over the ridge. This happened about 7 o'clock. The chief +herder and my companion received the information somewhat in a spirit of +respectful incredulity, but Leonard assured me that it was so, and we +made preparations to follow the trail toward night. Meanwhile I +breakfasted and slept. + +We left camp about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, and without the slightest +difficulty found the beast's trail exactly where the Mexican had said we +should. Before this time I had killed an odd bear or so in Colorado, and +had had some little experience in unraveling the trail of game. It may +be rather priding myself upon the accomplishment, but let me here +acknowledge the superiority of professional talent. Leonard, to all +intents and purposes, had been born and raised on a sheep range. His +earliest recollections had been of the sheep camps of the Sierras, of +the reputation of the arch-enemy of the flock and of the havoc which he +works. From infancy he, like all the herders, had been constantly upon +the lookout for bear sign; it was his one keenest intellectual +accomplishment and diversion. The result of this special training was +such an acuteness of vision and nice discrimination of eye that he could +clearly distinguish a bear's footprints upon the naked sand and gravel +where at a quick glance I was unable to see any indication whatever. A +single grain of sand displaced was sufficient to arrest his eye; he +detected it instantly. To him the minutest particle had its +weather-beaten side as well as a boulder. A bear could not put his foot +upon the ground without leaving an impress which he could detect. His +talent was so quick and unerring that we soon organized a division of +labor. He was to concentrate his energies and attention upon the trail, +while I, by his side or a step in advance, when the trail read itself +and permitted such a course, was to watch ahead and around for both of +us. Fortunately this arrangement was satisfactory to him. The hardest of +the trail to decipher was where it was written in condensed shorthand +across a mountain slide or _coulisse_ of naked granite boulders. Here +not one trace was to be found in a dozen yards. Fortunately we could +trust in the genius of the bear; he was aware, as well as La Place, that +a straight line is the shortest distance between two points. He +undoubtedly knew exactly where he was heading. We had his general +direction, and by beating about for a tuft of grass here with a blade +displaced, a stray gooseberry bush there with a leaf awry, and yonder a +patch of thicker vegetation, betraying interference, we soon succeeded, +owing mainly to Leonard's genius as a pathfinder, in getting through a +couple of acres of this most vague and illegible pedography. At last we +had the trail upon the mountain side once more, where, after such +difficulties surmounted, following it was a comparative luxury. + +After having proceeded in this manner for perhaps two hours, we entered +timber, and were obliged to advance with greater caution to avoid the +slightest sound which might betray our presence and give the alarm. With +two men the risk of doing this is increased in geometrical ratio. One +person alone, traveling through the woods, may, and almost certainly +will, break an occasional twig under foot. If game is within hearing, +the sound will inevitably be detected; the deer, if it be a deer, will +lift his head and listen; but if the hunter stops and waits for a time, +the chances are that the animal will, after due interval of silence, +resume his feeding if so engaged, or his rumination, be it physical or +moral, and the alarm may not prove fatal. Not so when companions are +hunting together. It would seem as if the second man, with dreadful +promptness, never failed to snap his twig also, which sounds as loud as +a pistol coming upon the strained attention of the listening beast, who +is off like a streak, leaving the disappointed hunter, as he hears him +crashing away, to moralize that company in the chase halves the pleasure +and doubles the sorrow. The only safety where union is necessary is to +proceed with exaggerated and fantastic caution. + +Leonard was a treasure in this. He had dreamt of grizzlies all his life, +yet had never been in at the death. His heart was in the hunt--he fairly +sighed for gore. We crept into the woods as silent as panthers and as +"purry" in the ardor of the chase. After a mile or so our bear had come +to an immense fallen spruce, lying across the trail, with the big butt, +five or six feet in diameter, to our right, the top pointing up the +hill. Over the middle of this, at right angles, lay another large tree, +with the point toward us. I felt that behind the first of these, if I +had been the original and unmolested settler in these parts, as the bear +was, with all the world before me where to choose, I should have made +the bed for my morning nap. It was long after daylight when he had +reached this covert. He had doubtless been stirring soon after sunset +the evening before; he had, it is not unlikely, been traveling all +night; had feasted heartily upon a sheep during that interval, and by +the time he reached this place, which may have been in his mind from the +start, was feeling comfortably lazy and inclined to the refreshment of +sleep. Behind that tree, so admirably suited for the purpose, I trusted +that he might still remain. The big end would protect a cool space from +the heat of the morning sun, and we might yet be so lucky as to find him +in his lair beneath its shelter. A signal to Leonard was enough, and we +proceeded to circle the fallen timber, which fortunately the wind +permitted, with all the caution of which we were capable. Had the +gentleman we were after been our dearest friend at the crisis of a +fever, we could not have tiptoed about his bed with more solicitude lest +we disturb sweet slumber. The big tree lay in front of us; by this we +crept at a respectful distance, and then approached the further end of +the tree lying across it. With great care I sneaked up until I could +look over its trunk at the desired point. Alas! no bear had made his +nest there. + +Sorrowfully, but without a sound, I crawled upon the intervening log and +slowly stood erect. There, directly beneath me, where I could have +jumped into it most comfortably, was the deserted form of the bear, +which he had dug in the morning within an hour after Leonard had seen +him, and in which the greater part of the day had been spent, until he +had stirred abroad for water, with which to wash down the recollection +of his muttons. Although ardently hoping that he was behind the tree, I +had not in the least expected to find his bed in this particular place. +Had he stayed quietly there until our arrival, he would have given one +of us a delicious surprise, and the mutual agitation of the moment might +have induced a shot with unpremeditated haste, and possibly have caused +me to get off that fallen spruce tree in somewhat quicker time than I +had climbed it. One naturally would not feel any keen desire to display +his acrobatic skill in walking a log for the entertainment of an +infuriated grizzly. A few hairs proclaimed him a cinnamon, who is either +a variety of the grizzly or his first cousin--authorities differ; at all +events, he closely resembles him except in color, which, although of a +uniform light, fady brown, might be an extreme type of the "sorrel top" +of the Rockies. In size the cinnamon fully holds his own with the +grizzly; I should say that his head was rather longer. The generous +excavation which this one had made showed that he was no mean +representative of his species. + +Not twenty yards away, and near the end of the big tree where I had +expected to find him, was a little spring. To this, still without a +word, we proceeded, saw where he had stood to drink more than once, +doubtless long and deep. To our left, in the soft earth, lay his +retreating footsteps--a continuation of the general direction of his +previous course. A moment's pause for closer scrutiny, a smile and a +whispered word exchanged--just to show that we were not bored; then, +respectful of the silence of the darkening woods, we were again upon the +trail. It was now easy to see why he had left his lair; it faced the +west, and the heat of the afternoon sun had annoyed him, warmly clad and +irritable with high living. + +We had proceeded only about a stone's throw further when I caught a +glimpse of our bear. Within twenty paces, under the shadow of a tree at +the edge of a cool, umbrageous thicket, between him and the setting sun, +lay the beast we were after; or, as I for a moment thought, judging +from the great inchoate mass of brown fur, a pair, perhaps male and +female, or one, it might be, a yearling cub. With finger lifted I +signaled Leonard to stop. A great head was slowly raised and turned my +way. A bullet between the eyes and down it went again, and I threw +another cartridge into the chamber, expecting to see the second bear +spring to his feet, ready to do whatever, in his judgment, the occasion +required, either to fight or to run. Whichever he might elect to do, it +was well to be prepared. "Give him another shot," said the prudent +Leonard, and I fired a second time, sending this ball quartering and, +like the first, through the brain; then I realized that there was but +one, and he of creditable size. We soon had him out in the open, for +nothing is easier to roll about than a bear just killed. He is like a +great jelly-fish, and I have seen a little terrier no larger than a +rabbit worry and shake a great carcass four times as large as the most +commodious kennel he could desire, provided he were a sensible pup and +had the comfortable instinct of wild things for snugness rather than +ostentatious display. Enough of daylight remained for us to get his pelt +off, with head and claws unskinned and attached, and to hurry over the +mountain by moonlight with our trophy, a junk of rank meat for such as +might desire it not forgotten. + +We were cordially welcomed back to camp, and, after the usual pow-wow, +the cook, with due formality, with Mexican _chile_ and Spanish +politeness, proceeded to concoct the boasted _chile con oso_--a much +overrated dish when made of a tough old cinnamon he bear. After I had +turned in I heard much laughter, and subsequently learned that it was at +an incident of the day. As we were starting out in the afternoon, and +before we had struck the bear's trail, in order to avoid any possibility +of a premature shot I had casually inquired of Leonard if he wished to +earn five dollars. + +"Certainly, Señor, I am always glad to get the chance." + +"Well, don't shoot then until I give the word, and you shall have it." + +This circumstance Leonard had innocently narrated to the group around +the camp-fire in the fuller elaboration of the hunt, and the story had +an immediate success, the idea seeming to prevail that nothing in the +world could have tempted him to fire before he was compelled to--which, +as a matter of fact, I think was only prudent on his part, considering +the arms he bore. + +The next morning, to the infinite chagrin of some of us, the younger +_patron_ discovered that his presence was required at home, where, if he +was mildly chid by my friend, his elder brother, who in generosity to +his junior had yielded his own place and the leadership of this +expedition, I should not greatly grieve. + +Upon the third day thereafter we regained the ranch. + +_Alden Sampson._ + + + + +The Ascent of Chief Mountain + + +In the most northern corner of the Piegans' country, in northwestern +Montana, almost grazing the Canadian border with its abrupt side, stands +a turret-shaped mountain. Behind it the great range of the Rockies, +which for hundreds of miles has been trending steadily northwood, bends +sharply away toward the west, leaving the corner on which the mountain +stands a huge protruding pedestal for its weird shape. Ninety years ago +Lewis and Clarke saw it from far to southward as they passed along the +dwindling Missouri and called it Tower Mountain; but to the Indians it +has always been The Chief Mountain. Even those prosaic German +geographers to whom we owe so much for information about our own and +other lands have either seen it and fallen under the spell of its +strange power, or have taken their nomenclature directly from the +Piegans, for they have crowned it Kaiser Peak. + +For more than a year we had been numbered with the Chief's subjects. +During the previous summer we had been seeking the acquaintance of the +mountain goat; not the shorn degenerate which throngs the slopes of the +Cascades and straggles among the southern peaks of Montana, but the true +snowy buffalo of the northern Rockies; and from the ledges of the St. +Mary Mountains, where we had sought him, could be seen still further to +the northward the Piegans' Chief. Of the range, yet not in it, like a +captain well to the front of his battle-line, he pressed out into the +broad prairie, as if leading a charge of Titans toward the far distant +lakes. And through the long months of an Eastern winter, and the still +longer months of an Eastern summer, above all the memories of that +wondrous land where every butte and mountain peak teems with legend, and +where every bison skull on the prairie tells its story, had towered the +clear-cut image of that Northern mountain, a worthy sovereign of any +man's allegiance. Now, as inevitably as an antelope returns to its lure, +we had returned for a closer look at our mountain. Down deep in our +hearts, battling with the awe which we felt for him, was the almost +unspoken hope that perhaps in some way we might struggle up his sheer +sides and make him, in a way he was to no one else, our king. + +We were a party of three, the Doctor and I, and our faithful packer, +Fox. A cold storm was blowing spitefully across the open foothills and +out on to the prairie as we broke camp under the high banks of Kennedy +Creek on the morning of the last stage of our journey. The clouds, +driving over the range from the northwest, swung so low that they hid +the peaks, and the great pedestal of the Chief met them all uncrowned, +indistinguishable from the others about him. It was one of those +doubtful mornings with which the mountains love to warn off strangers, +or to greet their friends--one which might presage a week of storm or +usher in a fortnight of surpassing beauty. + +We had camped for the night at the last of those ranches which stretch +along the bottom lands of the St. Mary River, and just as we started, +its owner, Indian Billy, decided to go with us. + +Even he had never been to the foot of his tribe's famous peak, and the +dark-skinned idlers of the ranch who gathered about us as we flung the +lash ropes over our horses could tell us little more than legends of +it. Several Bloods from across the Canadian border declared that the +boundary line ran, not where the white men had marked it on the prairie +with their insignificant piles of stones, but through the deep cleft in +the Chief's wall, where the Great Spirit himself had placed it; thus +giving to the Bloods, who knew it best, their proper share of the +mountain. And, getting warmer in their enthusiasm, they reminded Billy +of their standing challenge to his tribe, the Piegans--fifty horses to +anyone who should run around that wall, small as it seemed, in half a +day. + +For our part it was hard to realize even on that cold September morning +that the long dreaming was over and the reality before us. It took all +the straining of the pack ponies on the wet lead-ropes to remind us that +we were at last climbing the foothills of the great peak. Our presence +there, far from breaking the long enchantment, surrendered us bodily to +it, and Billy, riding over the successive slopes before us, swaying in +the saddle with the hawk-like motion of the prairie Indian, seemed a fit +ambassador to lead us to his king. As the day passed, the clouds +gradually lightened; and finally, just as we surmounted one of the +higher foothills, at the summit of the long, sloping, forest-clad +pedestal before us broke through the crown of the Chief. Toward us, on +the east, it showed a black rectangular wall 2,000 feet in length, 1,500 +in height, and from its sharp corners the broken mists streamed away +southward like tattered garments. + +A few hasty pictures, taken while Fox mended a broken pack cinch, and we +pressed on toward the foot of the mountain. Some benign influence was +with us even thus early, and we were guided into the easiest way. +Streaks of burned forest, bristling with windfalls, were slowly but +successfully threaded, long rock slides luckily avoided, while we +mounted steadily slope after slope; until finally, late in the +afternoon, we pulled our panting horses out, just above timber line, +upon the comparatively level summit of the pedestal. The foot of the +great crown wall was still a mile away and 1,000 feet above us, but we +were near enough and high enough for our purpose; and in a deep basin, +sheltered from the wind and carpeted with softest mountain grass, and +with the only water in the neighborhood sparkling up from a spring in +the bottom, we found a perfect camp. As soon as the tents were pitched, +Fox set about preparing dinner, while the seven horses, freed from their +loads, buried their noses in the grass in perfect contentment. + +As he sat in the door of the tent, the Doctor's eyes seemed glued to his +field glass, while the object lenses ever pointed in the one direction, +westward; under the brim of the Indian's broad hat, as he lay apparently +dozing before the fire, I could see his black eyes fixed on the same +point; and even Fox, constantly shifting his position about the fire, +rarely took one which placed his back toward that black wall behind +which the sun was now gradually sinking. For myself, all the longing of +the past year had concentrated itself into a desire to rush over this +last remaining distance; to get to that magic crown, to feel it with +hand and foot, and to see whether, as the Piegans aver, it denied even a +single foothold for a mortal man. + +After dinner the Doctor and I did go to it. We clambered out of our +little basin on to the higher portion of the domelike pedestal, and from +this platform, on which rests the great crown, looked past its two edges +at the vast mountain range behind it, stretching north and south. Then +we picked our way toward it, through the loose boulders and broken rock; +saw the summit hang further and further over us as we advanced into the +gloom at its foot, and after finally reaching it and pressing ourselves +against it where it rose sheer from its pedestal, we hurried back to +camp through the twilight, thoroughly awed by the solemnity of the +place. + +The storm of the morning had cleared into a most perfect night; and, as +we lay about the fire, Billy told us all that the old men had told him +of the Chief. A full-blooded Piegan, in his new life as a ranchman he +had not lost touch with the traditions of his tribe. Only one Piegan, he +said, had ever attempted to climb the mountain. Years ago a hunting +party of their young men had been encamped on the opposite side, where +the cliffs do not overhang so much, and ledges run temptingly up for a +distance; and one of them, the youngest and most ambitious of the band, +declared that he would go to the summit. He started, and his companions +watched him from below until he passed along one of the very highest +ledges, out of sight. Then the spirit of the mountain must have met +him; for, though they waited many days, and searched for him all around +the base, he never came back. And the Piegans, being a prairie tribe and +not over fond of the mountains at best, thereafter avoided any close +acquaintance with their king. + +A story had come to them, however, from the Flatheads across the +range--a tribe whose prowess they always respected in war, as they +believed in their truthfulness in peace--and as the story related to +their mountain, they had treasured it among their own legends. Still +earlier, many years before even the oldest Piegan was a boy, there had +lived a great Flathead warrior, a man watched over by a spirit so mighty +that no peril of battle or of the hunt could overcome him. When at last +in his old age he came to die, he told the young men his long-kept +secret. Many years before, as the time approached for him to go off into +the forest and sleep his warrior sleep, in which he hoped to see the +vision which should be his guide and protection through life, he had +decided to seek a spot and a spirit which had never before been tried. +So, carrying the usual sacred bison skull for his pillow, he had +crossed the mountains eastward into the far-off Piegan country. Then, +with none to aid him save the steady power of his own courage, he had +ventured upon the ledges of the Chief of the Mountains, and, choking +down each gasp of panic when at overhanging corners the black walls +seemed striving to thrust him off and down, he had finally forced his +way to the very summit. For four days and nights he had fasted there, +sleeping in the great cleft which one can see from far out on the +prairie. On each of the first three nights, with ever increasing +violence, the spirit of the mountain had come to him and threatened to +hurl him off the face of the cliff if he did not go down on the +following day. Each time he had refused to go, and had spent the day +pacing the summit, chanting his warrior song and waving his peace pipe +in the air as an offering, until finally, on the fourth night, the +spirit had yielded, had smoked the pipe, and had given him the token of +his life. None of the young Flatheads, however, said Billy, had dared to +follow their great warrior's example; so that to this day he was the +only man who had braved the spirit of the Chief and made it his friend. + +[Illustration: THE CHIEF'S CROWN, FROM THE EAST.] + +After we were rolled in our blankets, and the late moon, rising from +the prairie ocean behind us, had turned the dark, threatening wall to +cheering silver, we thought again of the old warrior's steadfastness and +longed to make his example ours. + + * * * * * + +The Doctor's thermometer marked 20 degrees Fahrenheit when Fox called +us, and the morning bucket which he dashed over us was flavored with +more of the spirit of duty than usual. But otherwise the weather had +been made for us. Yesterday's storm had beaten down the smoke from +Washington forest fires, which had clouded everything for the past +month, and the Sweet Grass Hills twinkled across one hundred miles of +prairie as if at our feet; and yet there was hardly a breath of wind. +Under the lee of the wall itself absolute stillness brooded over ledges +which even a moderate breeze could have made dangerous. We did not make +an early start. The thing could be done quickly if it could be done at +all, for there was only 1,500 feet of cliff. + +Our men did not give the attempt to reach the summit from this, the +eastern side, even the scant compliment of a doubt; in their minds its +failure was certain, but they were willing to see how far we could get +up. The Doctor, too, had at first suggested, and with perfect +correctness, that to try a difficult side of a mountain before +reconnoitering the other was bad mountaineering, to say the least. But, +on the other hand, this east side was the famous side of the Chief--the +side which every passer-by on the prairie saw and wondered at. With our +glasses we had mapped a course which seemed not impossible; was it not +better to meet our king face to face than to steal on him from behind? +Besides, this wonderful weather might not last long enough for us to +reach the other side. And so our final conclusion was to try the east +face. + +Half way up the sheer face of the cliff was divided horizontally by a +broad, steep shelf which ran nearly the length of the mountain. That +shelf could clearly be crossed at any place; the difficulty would lie +with the walls below and above it. The lower one was bad enough at best, +but it was easy to recognize as least bad a place where a slope of shale +abutted against it, shortening it some 300 feet. The upper wall in +general seemed even worse, but it was furrowed by two deep chimneys, +side by side, one of which led into the mountain's well-known cleft. +The other chimney seemed to lead directly to the summit, but its lower +mouth was inaccessible--cut off by overhanging cliff. Our plan, +therefore, if we could ever reach the halfway shelf, was to use the +first chimney in the beginning, then try to find a way around the +dividing shoulder into the second, then follow that to the top. And at 9 +o'clock we began on the lower wall. + +Of course, the work which followed was not so difficult as it had +promised from below--rock work rarely is--but it thoroughly taxed our +slender experience, and, for a single man without a rope, must have been +far worse. The Doctor and I took turns in leading, carrying up or having +thrown to us from below a rope, on which the others then ascended. Most +of the difficulty was thus confined to one man, and he could often be +assisted from beneath. We were not skilled enough in the use of the rope +to risk tying ourselves together. + +Two hundred feet up came our first trouble, perhaps the worst of the +day. We were sidling along a narrow shelf, with arms outstretched +against the wall above, when we reached a spot where the shelf was +broken by a round protruding shoulder. Beyond it the ledge commenced +again and seemed to offer our only way upward. I was leading at the +time, and, after examining it, turned back to a wider portion of the +shelf for consultation. It was not a place one would care to try if +there was an alternative. + +We braced the Indian against the wall, and his skillful hand sent the +lariat whirling up at a sharp rock above our heads. Time after time the +noose settled fairly around it, but found no neck to hold it, and came +sliding down. Then, almost before we knew it, the Doctor had run out +along the ledge to the shoulder and had started around. For a moment he +hung, griping the rounded surface with arms and knees; then a dangerous +wriggle and he was on the other side. + +Under his coaching the Indian and I followed; but Fox, when half way, +lost his head, and barely succeeded in getting back to the starting +point. He would not try again. The poor fellow's moccasins had lost some +of their nails and he had slipped once or twice that morning, thus +destroying the nerve of one who had at other times shown himself a good +climber. But of the Indian's companionship for the rest of the day we +were now sure. + +Again, when near the top of that first wall, and when the halfway ledge +seemed almost within our grasp, the shallow cleft--up which we were +scrambling--ended in a deep pocket in the cliff's face, with no outlet +above. The Doctor tried it at one corner, but the treacherous crumbling +rock warned him back. I tried it at another, but was stopped by an +overhang in the cliff. No help for it but to go back and try to find a +way around. + +Fifty feet below we landed on a small shelf running horizontally along +the mountain's face, and, after following it northward a few moments, we +found another channel leading up. The Doctor started to investigate it, +while Billy and I continued on slowly looking for a better. Almost +immediately, however, we heard the Doctor shout "All right," and, +following him, came out at last upon the great halfway shelf of the +mountain. + +This was a steep slope of shale, which seemed in places quite ready to +slide in an avalanche of loose rock over the edge of the cliff below; +but the relief of being out upon it, and able once more to stand upright +without the sensation of a wall against your face, apparently trying to +shove you outward from your slender foothold, was simply indescribable. + +After crossing the shelf and eating our lunch in the mouth of the first +or left-hand chimney, we attacked the upper wall. Following up the +chimney a short distance, we found at last a narrow ledge leading to the +right, and, creeping around on it, I looked into the right-hand chimney +above its forbidding mouth. It led as a broad, almost easy, staircase +clear to the top of the wall above, and for the first time we felt as if +our king were really ours. + +Six or seven hundred feet more of steady work, and we could feel the +summit breeze beginning to blow down the narrow mouth of the chimney. +Billy was then sent to the front, and at half past one the first Piegan +stepped out on the summit of the Chief Mountain. + +It is a long ridge of disintegrated rock, flanked at either end by lower +rounded turrets, and at its highest part is no wider than a New England +stone wall. On the opposite western side the cliffs fell away as on our +own, but they seemed shorter, were composed of looser rock, and far down +below we could see steep slopes of shale meeting them part way. After +we had picked out our various landmarks in the wonderful outlook about +us, and I had made my record from compass and barometer, we pushed our +way carefully along to the highest point of the narrow ridge, in order +to mark it with a cairn of rocks. Just as we reached it, the Indian, who +was still in the lead, suddenly stopped and pointed to the ground. +There, on the very summit of Chief Mountain, safely anchored by rocks +from the effect of wind or tempest, lay a small, weather-beaten bison +skull. It was certainly one of the very oldest I have ever seen. Even in +the pure air of that mountain top it had rotted away until there was +little else than the frontal bone and the stubs on which had been the +horns. Billy picked it up and handed it to us quietly, saying with +perfect conviction, "The old Flathead's pillow!" + +We left the skull where it had been found. Much as we should have +treasured it as a token of that day, the devotion of the old warrior who +had brought it was an influence quite sufficient to protect this +memorial of his visit. We shared his reverence far too much to allow us +to remove its offering. And then, too, as Billy suggested, we were still +on top of the Chief, and the Chief had certainly been very forbearing +to us. Those long walls, now darkened by the afternoon shade, those +narrow ledges whence the downward climber could no longer avoid seeing +the stone he dislodged bound, after two or three lengthening jumps, +clear to the pedestal below, loomed very suggestively before his mind. +But the Chief still remained gracious, and Billy worked even more +steadily and sure-footedly going down than in the morning. We had all +gained confidence, and besides we were certain of our course. By 5 +o'clock we had reached the last bad place--where Fox had left us--and, +after avoiding that by swinging down hand over hand on the rope from a +ledge above, it was only a few moments to the bottom. + +That night, after we were all safe in camp, and the great cliff beamed +down on us more kindly than ever in the moonlight, the Doctor and I +decided that we had been more favored than the old Flathead warrior, for +the spirit of our mountain had been with us even before we reached its +top. + +And for our success an explanation beyond our physical powers seemed +necessary to others also; for, when a few days later we returned to the +ranch in the St. Mary's Valley, Billy, who had preceded us, met us with +the mien of the prophet who is denied by his own, and told us that his +cousins, the Bloods from across the border, had suggested that, when +next he returned from a trip to the range, he should bring them a +likelier story than that he had climbed the east face of the Chief +Mountain. + +_Henry L. Stimson._ + + + + +The Cougar + + +It was upwards of twelve years ago that I had been down to one of the +Rio Grande River towns herding up Mexicans, whom I expected to aid me in +discovering gold where none existed. On my way down I had run across a +mountain lion making off with a lamb, and shot and secured him after a +little strategic maneuvering. On the return journey, after I had hired +as many of the greasers as I desired, I camped at night about twenty +miles from home, in a log cabin that had lost the door, the roof and all +the chinking from between the logs. + +There was no reason to fear wild beasts--and the cabin would have been +no protection for me even if there had been; nor was the structure any +protection from the numerous cut-throat, horse-stealing Mexicans who +flourished in that section of the country as thickly as cactus. However, +I lariated my horse and threw down my blankets in this tumble-down +shack, and turned in. I have quite a habit of sleeping on my back, and I +was awakened some time in the night by a feeling of oppression on my +chest. Having been accustomed to life in a country where the Indians +were rampant, and where the wise man on awakening looked about him +before stirring, I opened my eyes without moving, and there, standing +directly on my breast, looking me squarely in the face, was a skunk, +with its nose not, I swear, six inches from my own. + +It was a bright moonlight night, and I could see that the little devil +was of the kind whose bite is said to convey hydrophobia. But that did +not worry me; it was not the bite I feared. I realized perfectly that if +I moved I might get myself into trouble. I knew that the only thing for +me to do was to let the skunk gambol over me until he wearied of the +pastime and went out of the cabin. + +I have a lurking suspicion that that skunk knew I was awake and in +mental agony; for, after looking me in the face, he ran down my body on +one leg and then up again, actually smelling of one of my ears; and then +he trotted off me on to the floor of the cabin, where he nosed about +awhile, then up again on my body; and, after sprinting a few seconds +over my person, he went down and out of the cabin. + +So soon as he had disappeared out of the door I jumped to my feet and, +drawing my gun, rushed out after him. He was plainly visible just to the +right of the cabin, and I blazed away. Immediately after I had shot him +I regretted it, for I had to move camp. + +The next day, on my way back to camp, I journeyed over a divide that was +more or less noted as a den for mountain lions; though to designate any +particular locality as a "den" for cougars is incorrect, for it is not +an animal that remains in any one place for any great length of time. He +is a wandering pirate, who makes no one district his home for any long +period. + +However, this especial divide was said to harbor more of them than any +other; or, at least, there were more signs of them, and more were +reported to be started from there by hunters than elsewhere in the +territory. Be that as it may, on the particular day of which I write I +accidentally ran across the only cougar I ever have killed which gave me +a fight and stampeded my horse, so that I was obliged to foot it into +camp. + +I do not think the bronco is as fearful of the cougar as of the bear, at +least my experience has not been such. I have had a mustang jump pretty +nearly from under me on winding a bear, and I have wasted minutes upon +minutes in getting him near the carcass of a dead one, that I might pack +home a bit of bruin's highly-scented flesh, and I never had any similar +experience where the cougar was concerned. I have had my pony evince +reluctance to approach the slain lion, but not show the absolute terror +which seizes them in the neighborhood of bear. + +My experience at this particular time, as I say, was novel in two +respects--first, the fright with which my bronco was stricken; and +second, the fight shown by the cougar. I had reached the top of the +divide, and was picking my way across the fallen timber, which so often +blocks the trail over the tops of divides in New Mexico. I remember +distinctly having gained a clear spot that was pretty well filled with +wild violets, which grew in great profusion thereabouts, and was guiding +my pony that I should not trample upon them; for in that God-forsaken +district, 10,000 feet above the level of the sea, it seemed too bad to +crush the life out of the dainty little flowers that hold up their heads +to the New Mexico sunshine. + +Without warning, my bronco, which was traveling along at a fox-trot, +stopped suddenly, and looking up I saw, not more than fifty yards away, +about as large a mountain lion as I had ever encountered, standing +motionless and looking at us with utmost complacency. To throw myself +out of the saddle and draw my Sharps-forty from the saddle holster was +the work of a very few seconds. Throwing the bridle rein over my arm, I +slipped in a cartridge, and was just pulling down on him when the cougar +started off at a swinging trot to one side at right angles to where he +had stood, and through some small quaking aspens. Without thinking of +the bridle being over my arm, I knelt quickly in order to get a better +sight of the animal, and almost simultaneously pressed the trigger. + +As I did so my bronco threw up his head, which spoiled my aim, and, +instead of sending the ball through the cougar's heart, as I had hoped +to do, it went through the top of his shoulders, making a superficial +wound--not sufficiently severe to interfere with his locomotion, as I +immediately discovered; for, with a combined screech and growl, that +lion wheeled in my direction, and made for me with big jumps that were +not exactly of lightning rapidity, but were ground-covering enough to +create discomfort in the object of his wrath. + +My bronco, meanwhile, was jumping all over the ground, and I realized I +could not hold him and make sure of my aim. To swing myself into the +saddle and make away would have been simple, but I knew enough of the +cougar to know that if I retreated, he, in his fury, would be sure to +follow; and on that mountain side, with its fallen timber and rough +going, I should have little chance in a race with him. I had no revolver +to meet him in the saddle at short range, and a knife was not to my +liking for any purpose, so far as an infuriated cougar was concerned, +except for skinning him, once I had put sufficient lead into his carcass +to quiet his nerves. There was nothing for me to do but fight it out on +foot; therefore I dropped the bridle rein and turned the bronco loose +(thinking he would run his fright off in a short distance), and gave +myself up to the business of the moment, which, with the beast getting +nearer every instant, was becoming rather serious. I do not know how +others have felt under like conditions; but there is something about the +look of a cougar on business bent, with its greenish, staring eyes, that +produces a most uncomfortable sensation. I have been sent up a tree +post-haste by a bear, and I have had an old bull moose give me an +unpleasant quarter of an hour, but I am sure I never experienced a more +disagreeable sensation than when I looked through my rifle sights at +that loping lion. He did not seem to be in any feverish anxiety to reach +me, but there was an earnest air about his progression that was ominous. + +Under any circumstances, it is not altogether pleasing to have a +mountain lion, on his busy day, making for you, and with only about +fifteen to twenty yards between him and his quarry. I presume the +delicacy of the situation must have impressed itself upon me; for my +next shot, although I aimed for one of those hideous eyes, missed far +enough to clip off a piece of skin from the top of his skull and to whet +his appetite for my gore. My bullet seemed to give him an added +impetus; for, with almost a single bound and a blood-chilling screech, +by the time I had put another cartridge into my single-shot rifle, he +was practically on top of me. Fortunately, his spring had landed him +short, and in another instant I had very nearly blown his entire head +off. He was a monster. I skinned him and hung his pelt on a tree; and, +on foot, made my way into camp, after a fruitless search for my bronco. + +I have killed five cougars, and this is the only one that ever gave me a +fight. I record it with much pleasure, for there is an uncertainty about +the cougar's temperament and an alacrity of movement that are altogether +unsettling. You never know in what mood you find the mountain lion, and +he does not seem by any chance to be in the same one more than once, for +those I have shot have evinced different dispositions; generally, +however, bordering on the cowardly. At times their actions are +sufficient to characterize them as the veriest cowards in the world, and +yet again, on very slight provocation, they are most aggressive and +cruelly ferocious. There are many well-authenticated stories, to be had +for the asking of any old mountaineer, of the unwonted craftiness and +ferocity of the cougar, and I suppose I could fill a couple of chapters +of this volume by recounting yarns that have been told me during my +Western life. + +Between ourselves, I do not think hunting the cougar is very much sport. +It is an instructive experience, and one, I think, every hunter of big +game should have; but, at the same time, in my opinion it does not +afford the sport of still-hunting deer, antelope, elk, moose or bears. +In the first place, there is really no time you can still-hunt the +cougar except in winter, when there is a light snow on the ground, and +at all times it is most difficult, because you are dealing with an +animal that embodies the very quintessence of wariness, and is ever on +the lookout for prey and enemies. You have to deal with an animal that +knows every crevice and hole of the mountain side, that moves by night +in preference to day, and rarely travels in the open; whose great +velvety paws enable it to sneak about absolutely unheard, and that will +crouch in its lair while you pass, perhaps within a dozen feet. + +Yet there are only two ways of really hunting the mountain lion--by +still-hunting and by baiting. I have tried baiting a number of times, +but have never found it successful. Others, I understand, have found it +so; but in a score of cases, where I have provided tempting morsels, and +lain out all night in hopes of getting a shot at the marauder, in none +have I been rewarded, and in only one or two have I got a glimpse of a +pair of shining eyes, that disappeared in the gloom almost on the +instant of my discovering them. + +Probably the most successful method of getting a shot at this wary beast +is by hunting it with dogs (though I never had the experience), for the +mountain lion has small lungs and makes a short, fast race. With dogs on +his trail he is likely to take to a tree after a not very long run, +which rarely occurs when he is still-hunted on foot. Yet, if the hunter +values the lives of his dogs, he must be sure of his first shot, for the +cougar is a tough customer to tackle when in his death throes; and I +have been told, by those who have hunted in this way, that many a young +and promising dog has had the life crushed out of him by the dying lion. +Their forelegs are short and very powerful; but, curiously enough, +unlike the bear, they do not use them in cutting and slashing so much +as in drawing the victim to them to crush out its life with their strong +jaws. + +I have said, one never knows how to take the cougar. Almost every mining +camp in the West will produce somebody who has met and scared him to +flight by a mere wave of the hand or a shout, and that identical camp +will as like as not produce men that have had the most trying +experiences with the same animal. It is this knowledge that makes you, +to say the least, a little uncomfortable when you meet one of these +creatures. I have had many trying experiences of one kind and another, +and hunted many different kinds of game, but none ever harassed my soul +as the cougar has. On one occasion I had been about five miles from +camp, prospecting for gold, which I had discovered in such alluring +quantities as to keep me panning until darkness put an end to my work +and started me homeward. It was a pretty dark night, and my trail lay +along the side of a mountain that was rather thickly wooded and a pretty +fair sort of hunting country. I had left my cabin early in the morning, +intent on finding one of the numerous fortunes that was confidently +believed to be hidden away in those New Mexico gulches, and was armed +only with pick, shovel and pan. I was sauntering along, beset by dreams +of prospective prosperity, based on the excellent finds I had made, when +suddenly in front of me--I am sure not more than twenty-five feet--two +great balls of fire rudely awakened me and brought my progress to an +abrupt halt. I dare say it took a second or two to bring me down to +earth, but when the earthward flight was accomplished I immediately +concluded that those balls of fire must belong to a mountain lion. + +At that time my experience with the cougar had been sufficient to put me +in an uncertain frame of mind as to just what to expect of the creature. +I had not an idea whether he was going to spring at me or whether I +could scare him away. However, on chance, I broke the stillness of the +night by one of those cowboy yells, in the calliope variations of which +I was pretty well versed in those days, and, to my immense relief, the +two glaring balls of fire disappeared. + +Trudging on my way, I had once more lost myself in the roseate future +incidental to placers averaging three dollars in gold to the cubic +yard, when, as suddenly as before, and as directly in front of me, those +two glaring balls shone out like a hideous nightmare. This time, I +confess, I was a little bit annoyed. I knew that, as a rule, mountain +lions do not follow you unless they are ravenous with hunger or smell +blood. I had not been hunting, and, consequently, my clothes and hands +were free from gore, and I was therefore forced to the sickening +conclusion that this particular beast had selected me as a toothsome +morsel for its evening repast. I cannot honestly say I was flattered by +the implied compliment, and, summoning all my nerve, I reached for a +rock and hurled it at those eyes, to hear it crash into the dry brush, +and, greatly to my peace of mind, to see the diabolical lights go out, +for it was too dark to distinguish the animal itself. + +Congratulating myself on the disappearance of the hideous +will-o'-the-wisp, I set out at a five-mile-an-hour gait for camp. My +castles in the air had by this time quite dissolved, and I was attending +strictly to the business of the trail, wishing camp was at hand instead +of a mile off, when once more those greenish lanterns of despair loomed +up ahead of me--not more than a dozen feet away, it seemed. I presume +the beast had been trailing me all the time, though, after its second +visitation, I kept a sharp lookout without discovering it, but evidently +it had kept track of my movements. + +I had no proof of its being the same animal, of course, but I was pretty +well persuaded of its identity, and I became thoroughly convinced that +this particular cougar had grown weary of waiting for its supper, and +was about to begin its meal without even the courtesy of "by your +leave." The uncanny feature of the experience was that not a sound +revealed its approach on any occasion, and I had no intimation of its +call until it dropped directly in my path. I leaned against a friendly +tree and thought pretty hard, watching the animal most intently to see +that it did not advance. It stood there as still as death, so far as I +could distinguish, not moving even its head, and the steady glare of its +eyes turned full upon me. + +I made up my mind that, if the animal was going to feast on me that +evening, I would disarrange its digestion, if possible. My short-handled +prospecting pick was the nearest approach I had to a weapon, and, +summoning all my ancient baseball skill, and feeling very carefully all +around me to see that there were no intervening branches to arrest its +flight, I hurled that pick at those two shining eyes, with a fervid wish +that it might land between them. My aim was true and it landed--just +where I cannot say, but I do know that it struck home; for, with a +screech calculated to freeze one's blood, and a subsequent growl, the +lion made off. For the rest of the mile to camp I had eyes on all sides +of the path at once, but I was not molested. + +I have since often wondered whether hunger or pure malice possessed that +brute. Owen Wister, to whom I told the story not very long ago, +suggested curiosity, and I am half inclined to believe his +interpretation; for, if hunger had been the incentive, it seems as if a +tap on the nose with a prospecting pick would not have appeased it, +though the cougar's propensity for following people, out of +unadulterated wantonness to frighten them, is well known. At any rate, +he showed his cowardly side that trip. + +The cougar is a curious beast, capricious as a woman. One day he follows +his prey stealthily until the proper opportunity for springing upon it +comes; again he will race after a deer in the open; at one time he will +flee at a shout, at another he will fight desperately. They are +powerful animals, particularly in the fore quarters. I have seen one +lope down a mountain side, through about six inches of snow, carrying a +fawn by the nape of the neck in its jaws, and swinging the body clear. + +In the West generally, I think, the lion is considered cowardly--a +belief I share, though agreeing with Theodore Roosevelt, who in "The +Wilderness Hunter" says cougars, and, in fact, all animals vary in moods +just as much as mankind. Because of their feline strategy and +craftiness, they are most difficult animals to hunt; I know none more +so. Neither do I know of any beast so likely to still the tenderfoot's +heart. Their cry is as terror-striking as it is varied. I have heard +them wail so you would swear an infant had been left out in the cold by +its mamma; I have heard them screech like a woman in distress; and, +again, growl after the conventional manner attributed to the monarch of +the forest. The average camp dog runs to cover when a cougar is +awakening the echoes of the mountain. I should call it lucky, for those +who hunt with dogs, that the lion does not pierce the atmosphere by his +screeches when being hunted; for, if he did, I fear it would be a +difficult matter to keep dogs on his trail. There seems to be something +about his screeching that particularly terrorizes dogs. + +_Casper W. Whitney._ + + + + +[Illustration: YAKS GRAZING.] + +Big Game of Mongolia and Tibet + + +From remote antiquity hunting has been a favorite pastime of the +emperors of China, but at no time has it been conducted with such +magnificence as under the Mongol dynasty in the thirteenth century and +during the reigning Manchu one. + +Marco Polo's account of a hunt of Kublai Khan reads like a fairy tale. +The Emperor left his capital every year in March for a hunting +expedition in Mongolia, accompanied by all his barons, thousands of +followers and innumerable beaters. "He took with him," says Polo, "fully +10,000 falconers and some 500 gerfalcons, besides peregrines, sakers and +other hawks in great numbers, including goshawks, to fly at the +waterfowl. He had also numbers of hunting leopards (_cheetah_) and +lynxes, lions, leopards, wolves and eagles, trained to catch boars and +wild cattle, bears, wild asses, stags, wolves, foxes, deer and wild +goats, and other great and fierce beasts. + +"The Emperor himself is carried upon four elephants in a fine chamber, +made of timber, lined inside with plates of beaten gold and outside with +lions' skins. And sometimes, as they may be going along, and the Emperor +from his chamber is holding discourse with the barons, one of the latter +shall exclaim: 'Sire, look out for cranes!' Then the Emperor instantly +has the top of his chamber thrown open, and, having marked the cranes, +he casts one of his gerfalcons, whichever he pleases; and often the +quarry is struck within his view, so that he has the most exquisite +sport and diversion there, as he sits in his chamber or lies on his bed; +and all the barons with him get the enjoyment of it likewise. So it is +not without reason I tell you that I do not believe there ever existed +in the world, or ever will exist, a man with such sport and enjoyment as +he has, or with such rare opportunities." + +In the latter part of the seventeenth century, during the reign of the +Emperor K'ang-hsi, Father Gérbillon followed the Emperor several times +on his hunting expeditions into Mongolia, and has told us in his +accounts of these journeys of the enthusiasm and skill displayed by the +Emperor in the pursuit of game, which he usually shot with arrows, +though he also had hawks and greyhounds with him. + +I find no mention of the use of firearms in these imperial hunts, nor do +I believe that it has ever been considered, by the Tartars and Mongols, +sportsmanlike to use them. + +Coursing and hawking were probably introduced into China and Mongolia +after the Mongol conquest of Western Asia, where those royal sports had +then been in vogue for a long time. At present the Manchus keep great +numbers of hawks, caught for the most part in the northern portion of +the province of Shan-hsi, and with them they take hares and cranes. +Greyhounds are no longer numerous in Mongolia and China, though they are +much prized, and I have seen some among the Ordos Mongols and in Manchu +garrisons. They were short-haired, of a clear tan color with black +points, and showed good blood in their small tails and depth of chest. + +Besides the great annual hunts on the steppes--which, leaving aside the +sport and incidental invigorating influence on the courtiers, helped, by +the vast numbers of troops which took part in them, to keep quiet the +then turbulent Mongol tribes--the emperors of China have had, at +different times, great hunting parks, inclosed by high walls, at +convenient distances from their capital, or even in close proximity to +it, where they could indulge their fondness for the chase. Several of +these parks (called _wei chang_) are still preserved for imperial hunts, +and one I visited in 1886, to the north of Jehol and about six days' +travel from Peking, is some ninety miles long from north to south, and +over thirty miles from east to west. It is well stocked with pheasants, +roebucks, stags, and, it is said, there are also tigers and leopards in +it. The park is guarded by troops, and any person caught poaching in it, +besides receiving corporal punishment, is exiled for a period of a year +and a half to two years to a distant town of the empire. During my visit +to this park, I and my three companions camped just outside one of the +gates, and, by paying the keepers a small sum, we were able to get daily +a few hours' shooting in a little valley inside the wall and near our +camp. Though we had no dogs, and lost all the winged birds and wounded +hares, we bagged in nine or ten days over 500 pheasants, 150 hares, 100 +partridges and a few ducks. + +A mile or so south of Peking is another famous hunting park, called the +_Nan-hai-tzu_, in which is found that remarkable deer, not known to +exist in a wild state in any other spot, called _Cervus davidi_. Of late +years a number of these deer have been raised in the imperial park of +Uwino at Tokio, and also in the Zoölogical Garden of Berlin, where a +pair were sent by the German Minister to China, Mr. Von Brandt. This +deer is known to the Chinese as the _ssu-pu-hsiang-tzu_, "the four +dissimilarities," because, while its body shows points of resemblance to +those of the deer, horse, cow and ass, it belongs to neither of those +four species--so say the Chinese. + +The Chinese proper show but rarely any great love for sport. They are +fond of fishing, and I have seen some very good shots among them, +especially at snipe shooting, when, with their match-locks fired from +the hip, they will frequently do snap shooting of which any of our crack +shots might be proud. But the Chinese are essentially pot hunters, and +have no sportsmanlike instincts as have the Manchus and Mongols, with +whom sport is one of the pleasures of life, though it is also a source +of profit to many Mongol tribes. In winter they supply with game--deer, +boars, antelope, hares, pheasants and partridges--the Peking market, +bringing them there frozen from remote corners of their country. + +Among the big game in the northern part of the Chinese Empire the first +place properly belongs to tigers and leopards. In Korea tigers are quite +common, and a special corps of tiger hunters was kept up until recently +by the Government. The usual method of killing tigers is to make a +pitfall in a narrow path along which one has been found to travel, and +on either side of it a strong fence is erected. When the tiger has +fallen into the pit, he is shot to death or speared. The skin belongs to +the king, and the hunters are rewarded by him for each beast killed. The +skins are used to cover the seats of high dignitaries, to whom they are +given by the king, as are also the skins of leopards; and tigers' +whiskers go to ornament the hats of certain petty officials. + +Leopards are so numerous in Korea that I have known of two being killed +within a few weeks inside of the walls of Seoul. + +Tigers are also found in Manchuria, and, as before mentioned, in parts +of northern and southeastern China. I have seen the skin of a small one +hanging as an _ex voto_ offering in a lama temple near the Koko-Nor, and +was told that it had been killed not far from that spot. Colonel +Prjevalsky, however, says that the tiger is not found in northwestern +China; so the question remains an open one. + +Leopards, at all events, are common in northeastern and northwestern +China, in the hunting parks north of Peking, in the mountains of +northwest Kan-su and to the south of Koko-Nor. Bears are common from +northern Korea to the Pamirs. The Chinese distinguish two varieties, +which they call "dog bear" or "hog bear," and "man bear." The first is a +brown bear, and the latter, which is found on the high barren plateaus +to the north of Tibet, where it makes its food principally of the little +lagomys or marmots, which live there in great numbers, has for this +reason been called by Colonel Prjevalsky _Ursus lagomyarius_. I killed +one weighing over 600 pounds, whose claws were larger and thicker than +those of any grizzly I have seen. Its color is a rusty black, with a +patch of white on the breast. + +Besides these two varieties of bears, there is another animal, which, +though it is not properly a bear, resembles one so closely that it is +classed by the Chinese and Tibetans in that family. It is known to the +Chinese as _hua hsiung_, or "mottled bear," and Milne Edwards, who +studied and described it, has called it _Ailuropus melanoleucus_. This +animal was, I believe, discovered by that enterprising missionary and +naturalist, Father Armand David (who called it "white bear"), in the +little eastern Tibetan principality of Dringpa or Mupin, in western +Ssu-ch'uan.[13] Five specimens have so far been secured of this very +rare animal: three are in the Jardin des Plantes of Paris, the other two +in the Museum at the Jesuits' establishment, at Zikawei, near Shanghai. + + [13] See _Nouvelles Archives du Museum de Paris_, X., pp. 18 and 20. + +The stag or red deer ("horse deer" in Chinese) is found in Manchuria and +northern Korea, and the Tibetan variety, called _shawo_, must be very +abundant in portions of eastern Tibet, to judge from the innumerable +loads of horns which I have passed while traveling through eastern Tibet +on the way to China, in which latter country they are used in the +preparation of toilet powder. There is also a small deer in the +mountains of Alashan, in western Kan-su and Ssu-ch'uan, and in the +Ts'aidam; but I know nothing concerning it save its Mongol name, +_bura_, and its Chinese, _yang lu_, or "sheep deer." Prjevalsky, +however, gives some interesting details concerning it. Some Chinese +mention a third variety, called _mei lu_, or "beautiful deer," said to +live in the Koko-Nor country. + +[Illustration: AILUROPUS MELANOLEUCUS.] + +The musk deer is found in most parts of the Himalayas and Tibet, and as +far northeast as Lan-chou, on the Yellow River, in the Chinese province +of Kan-su. It is hunted wherever found, and nearly all the musk +ultimately finds its way to Europe or America, as it is not used to any +great extent by either Tibetans, Chinese or any of the other peoples in +whose countries it is procured; the Chinese only use a small quantity in +the preparation of some of their medicines. They distinguish two +varieties of musk deer: one, having tusks much larger than the other, is +called "yellow musk deer." + +Next in importance among the game of this region we find the _Antilope +gutturosa_ and the _Ovis burhil_, or "mountain goat," which range from +eastern Mongolia to western Tibet. But more important than these from a +sportsman's point of view is the _argali_, of which Col. Prjevalsky +distinguishes two varieties: the _Ovis argali_, ranging along the +northern bend of the Yellow River, between Kuei-hua Ch'eng and Alashan; +and the white-breasted _argali_, or _Ovis poli_, ranging from the +Ts'aidam and western Ssu-ch'uan to the Pamirs. + +The name _argali_ is, I think, an unfortunate one to give to this +species, as it is a Mongol word solely used to designate the female +animal, the male of which is called _kuldza_. + +The _Antilope hodgsoni_, called _orongo_ in Mongol, has about the same +range as the _Ovis poli_. It is by far the most beautiful antelope of +this region--the long, graceful, lyre-shaped horns, which it carries +very erect when running, being frequently over two feet in length. + +Although, to my mind, what are commonly regarded as cattle should no +more be considered game when wild than when tame, still, as I am perhaps +alone of this opinion, I must note, among the game animals of this part +of Asia, yaks and asses, which are found in western Mongolia, Turkestan +and in many parts of Tibet, especially the wild northern country, or +Chang-t'ang. + +The wild yak is invariably black, with short, rather slender horns +(smaller than our buffalo's), bending gracefully forward. The head is +large, but well proportioned, and the eyes quite large, but with a very +wild look in them. The legs are short and very heavy, the hoofs straight +and invariably black. The hair, which hangs down over the body and legs, +the face alone excepted, is wavy, and on the sides, belly and legs is so +long that it reaches within a few inches of the ground. The tail is very +bushy and reaches to the hocks, all the hair being of such uniform +length that it looks as if it were trimmed. When running, the yak +carries its tail high up or even over its back, and when frightened or +angered holds it straight out behind. + +The calves have a grunt resembling that of the hog, hence the name _Bos +grunniens_, but in the grown animal it is rarely heard; it is at best +only a dull, low sound, unworthy of such a big, savage-looking beast. +The bones of the yak are so heavy that it is nearly impossible to kill +one except by shooting it through the heart or wounding it in some +equally vital spot. Although I have shot a great many of these animals +in northern Tibet, I have never bagged any except when shot as above +mentioned, nor have I ever broken the limb of one. It is true that I +have done all my shooting with a .44 caliber Winchester carbine, which +was entirely too light for the purpose. + +The yak is not a dangerous animal except in the case of a solitary bull, +which will sometimes charge a few yards at a time, till he falls dead at +the hunter's feet, riddled with bullets. When in large bands yaks run at +the first shot, rushing down ravines, through snow banks and across +rivers, without a moment's hesitation, in a wild stampede. + +Mongol and Tibetan hunters say that one must never shoot at a solitary +yak whose horns have a backward curve, as he will certainly prove +dangerous when wounded; but the same beast may be shot at with impunity +if in a band. In fact, the natives never shoot at yaks except when in a +good-sized bunch. Natives usually hunt them by twos and threes, and, +after stalking to within a hundred yards or even less, they all blaze +away at the same time. + +The number of yaks on the plateaus north of Tibet is very considerable, +but there are no such herds as were seen of buffaloes on our plains +until within a few years. I have never seen over 300 in a herd, but Col. +Prjevalsky says that when he first visited the country around the +sources of the Yellow River, in 1870, he saw herds there of a thousand +head and more. Yaks are enormous feeders, and, in a country as thinly +covered with grass as that in which they roam, they must travel great +distances to secure enough food. As it is, it is the rarest thing in the +world to find even in July or August fine grazing in any part of this +country; the yaks keep the grass as closely cut as would a machine. + +In some of the wildest districts of western China a wild ox (_budorcas_) +is still found. Father Armand David thus describes it (_Nouvelles +Archives du Museum de Paris_, X., 17): "It is a kind of _ovibos_, with +very short tail, black and sharp horns, with broad bases touching on the +forehead; its ears are small, and, as it were, cropped obliquely. The +iris is of a dirty yellow gold color, the pupil oblong and horizontal. +The fur is quite long and of a dirty white color, with a dash of brown +on the hind quarters." + +The wild ass is no longer found, I believe, to the east of the Koko-Nor, +but from that meridian as far west as Persia is met with in large +numbers, and in the wilds to the north of Tibet in vast herds, quite as +large and numerous as those of yaks. + +The wild ass (called _kulan_ or _hulan_ in Mongol) stands about twelve +hands high, and is invariably of a tan color, with a dark line running +down the back, and white on the belly, neck and feet. The tail is rather +short, and thinly covered with hair; the head is broad, heavy, and too +large for the body of the animal. It carries its head very high when in +motion, and when trotting its tail is nearly erect. Its usual gait is a +trot or a run. A herd always moves in single file, a stallion leading. +As a rule, a stallion has a small band of ten or twelve mares, which he +herds and guards with jealous care day and night. Frequently these bands +run together and form herds of 500 or even of 1,000. + +One often meets solitary jackasses wandering about; they have been +deprived of their band of mares in a fight with some stronger male. +These have frequently proved most troublesome to me; they would round up +and drive off my ponies--all of which were mares--to add to the little +nucleus of a band they had hidden away in some lonely nook in the hills. +I have frequently had to lose days at a time hunting for my horses, and +I finally made it a point to shoot all such animals that came near my +camp; though I had a strong dislike to killing them--they looked so like +tame asses--and I never could see any sport in it, though the meat was +good enough--much better than yak flesh. + +The _hulan_ is very fleet and has wonderfully acute hearing, but it +possesses too great curiosity for its own safety; it will generally +circle around the hunter if not shot at, and come quite near to have a +look at the strange, unknown animal. + +It is said that wild camels and horses are found in some of the remoter +corners of southwestern Turkestan and south of Lob-Nor, and specimens of +them have been secured by Prjevalsky, Grijimailo and Littledale. The +question is now whether these animals are domesticated ones run wild, or +really wild varieties. Naturalists will probably disagree on this point. +For the time being these animals are too little known for me to express +an opinion on the subject, and, not having seen any, I can add nothing +to what has been written on the subject. + +My own shooting in Mongolia and Tibet has always been under +difficulties. Traveling without European companions, and my Asiatic one +not knowing how to handle our firearms, I have been able to give but +little time to sport. When pressed for food, however, I have killed +yaks, asses, _argali_, mountain sheep and antelope; I have also bagged a +few bears and leopards; but, as my only rifle was rather for purposes of +defense than for shooting game, I never went much out of my way to look +up these animals, though I felt great confidence in my good little +Winchester, having killed the largest yak I ever shot at, and a fine +bear, each with one shot from it. + +The game I mostly shot while in Tibet was yak; but, as I never killed +any save for meat--not believing in the theory of destroying animal life +for the sake of trophies to hang upon the wall--I made no phenomenal +bags, though big game was so plentiful in many sections of the country +that even with a native match-lock it would have been possible to have +killed many more animals than I did. + +The yak I approached at first with considerable trepidation, as I had +read in various books of their savageness and of the danger that the +hunter was exposed to from one of these big animals when wounded; but +now I am wiser, and I can reassure those who would kill these big +beasts; they look more dangerous than they really are, and will hardly +ever push their charge home, even when badly wounded. The first time I +saw them we were traveling up a rather open valley beside a frozen +rivulet, where, upon reaching the top of a little swell, some six or +eight hundred yards off, were a couple of hundred yaks coming down +toward the stream to try and find a water hole. I made signs to the men +behind me to stop, and, jumping from my horse, I crawled along to within +about 200 yards of them, when I blazed away at the biggest I could pick +out, standing a little nearer to me than the rest of the herd. They paid +hardly any attention to the slight report of my rifle; only the one at +which I shot advanced a short distance in the direction of the smoke and +then stopped, waving his great bushy tail over his back and holding his +head erect. I fired again, when he and the rest of the herd turned and +ran on to the ice, where I opened fire on them once more. They seemed +puzzled by the noise, but my bullets did not seem to harm them. Finally +one charged and then another, and at last the whole herd came dashing +up in my direction; but "I lay very low," especially as at this +seemingly critical moment I found that I had no more cartridges in my +gun. After awhile they turned and trotted back to the river, and I made +for my horse, much disappointed at my apparent failure to do any of them +any injury. + +[Illustration: ELAPHURUS DAVIDIANUS.] + +In the meantime my men had pushed on about half a mile, and we stopped +in a little nook to take a cup of tea. Having here supplied myself with +cartridges, I thought I would try to get another shot at the yaks, some +of which I could still see on the mountain side beyond the stream. My +delight was great when, coming up to the place where I had last seen +them, a big bull was lying dead, shot through the heart. + +The only time I ever encountered a solitary bull he bluffed us so +completely that I do not know but my reputation as a sportsman will +suffer materially by mentioning the incident. One day, as we were +rounding the corner of a hill, we saw an immense fellow, not 200 yards +off; and my two big mastiffs, which by this time were getting hardly any +food--as our stock of provisions was running very short, and who passed +most of their time while we were on the march vainly chasing hares, +marmots and any other animals they could see--made a dash for the yak +and commenced snapping at him. He trotted slowly off, but soon, becoming +angry, turned on the dogs, who came back to the caravan. He followed +them until within twenty yards of us. All my recollections of the +dangers encountered by Prjevalsky with yaks, all his remarks of the +extraordinary thickness and impenetrability of their skulls, of the +difficulty of killing these monstrous animals, and of their +ferociousness when wounded, came vividly to my mind in an instant. I saw +my mules and horses gored and bleeding on the ground, my expedition +brought to an untimely end, and a wounded yak waving his tail +triumphantly over us, for I was certain that with my light Winchester I +could never drop him dead in his tracks. We did not even dare so much as +look at him, but kept on our way, and the yak walked beside us, +evidently rejoicing in his victory. The dogs, now thoroughly cowed, took +refuge on the side of the caravan furthest from the infuriated animal, +and so we marched on for about half a mile, when, in utter disgust, he +turned and trotted off to the hillside where he stood watching us, his +bushy tail stretched out as stiff as iron behind him, pawing the ground, +and thus we left him. + +Shooting wild asses was much tamer business. We saw them sometimes in +herds of five or six hundred. They would mix with our mules even when +grazing around the camp, and often took them off five or six miles, when +we had great difficulty in getting them back. We frequently, however, +killed one for meat, which we found to be very savory; though most of my +men, who were Mahomedans, would only eat it when very hard pushed by +hunger, as their religion forbade them to eat the flesh of any animal +without cloven hoofs. I always felt, however, in shooting these animals, +as if I were destroying a domestic mule, and could never bring myself to +look upon them as fit game for a sportsman. This was strongly impressed +upon me one day when, desiring to get a fine specimen, whose skin and +bones I could bring back for the National Museum, I shot a very large +jack which was grazing some distance from our line of march, and broke +its hind legs, and was then obliged to go up to the poor beast and put a +ball into its head. After accomplishing this disagreeable duty in the +interest of science--though to no purpose, as it turned out, for I was +obliged to throw away the skin and bones a few days after, because I had +no means of transporting them--I made a solemn promise to myself that I +would never shoot a _kyang_ again; and, I am pleased to say, I broke my +promise but twice, and then I did so only to give us food, of which we +stood in great need. + +Shooting antelope in Tibet is not more exciting--or interesting, for +that matter--than shooting them elsewhere, and I do not know that +anything special can be said about this sport beyond the fact that the +number of Hodgson antelope which we met in parts of northern Tibet was +sometimes extraordinarily great. These animals suffer greatly, however, +from some plague, which frequently sweeps off enormous numbers of them. +I have passed over places where the bones of a hundred or more of them +might be seen, one near the other; and districts which I had visited in +1889, and where I had found great numbers of them, were absolutely +without a sign of one when I was there again in 1892. + +Of bear-hunting I can say but little. On different occasions, in various +parts of northern Tibet, I killed six or eight pretty good sized brown +bears; but a man would have to be blind not to be able to hit one at +twenty-five or thirty yards, and it is always possible to get as near +them as that, even in the open country which they frequent. They have +apparently no dens, but live in the holes in the ground which they dig +to get the little marmots on which they feed. These bears are, however, +very fleet, as I once or twice found out when trying to ride them down +on horseback, and when they nearly proved a match for the best ponies I +had. The natives stand in great dread of them, and will never attack +them except when there are three or four men together, when they +approach them from different directions and open fire all at the same +time. They say these bears are man-eaters, and even when the men with me +saw them lying dead they showed great repugnance to touch the body, or +even to come near them; though they might have made eight or ten dollars +by splitting them open and removing the gall--a highly-prized medicine +among the Chinese, who also find a place for bears' paws in their +pharmacopoeia. + +On the whole, though Korea, Mongolia and Tibet have plenty of big game, +they are not countries for a sportsman, and unless he has some other +hobby to take him there, he had better seek his fun elsewhere in more +accessible quarters of the globe. + +_W. W. Rockhill._ + + + + +Hunting in the Cattle Country + + +The little hunting I did in 1893 and 1894 was while I was at my ranch +house, or while out on the range among the cattle; and I shot merely the +game needed for the table by myself and those who were with me. It is +still possible in the cattle country to kill an occasional bighorn, bear +or elk; but nowadays the only big game upon which the ranchman of the +great plains can safely count are deer and antelope. While at the ranch +house itself, I rely for venison upon shooting either blacktail in the +broken country away from the river, or else whitetail in the river +bottoms. When out on the great plains, where the cattle range freely in +the summer, or when visiting the line camps, or any ranch on the heads +of the longer creeks, the prongbuck furnishes our fresh meat. + +In both 1893 and 1894 I made trips to a vast tract of rolling prairie +land, some fifty miles from my ranch, where I have for many years +enjoyed the keen pleasure of hunting the prongbuck. In 1893 the +pronghorned bands were as plentiful in this district as I have ever seen +them anywhere. A friend, a fellow Boone and Crockett man, Alexander +Lambert, was with me; and in a week's trip, including the journey out +and back, we easily shot all the antelope we felt we had any right to +kill; for we only shot to get meat, or an unusually fine head. + +In antelope shooting more cartridges are expended in proportion to the +amount of game killed than with any other game, because the shots are +generally taken at long range; and yet, being taken in the open, there +is usually a chance to use four or five cartridges before the animal +gets out of sight. These shots do not generally kill, but every now and +then they do; and so the hunter is encouraged to try them, especially as +after the first shot the game has been scared anyway, and no harm +results from firing the others. + +In 1893, Lambert, who was on his first hunt with the rifle, did most of +the shooting, and I myself fired at only two antelope, both of which had +already been missed. In each case a hard run and much firing at long +ranges, together with in one case some skillful maneuvering, got me my +game; yet one buck cost nine cartridges and the other eight. In 1894 I +had exactly the reverse experience. I killed five antelope for +thirty-six shots, but each one that I killed was killed with the first +bullet, and in not one case where I missed the first time did I hit with +any subsequent one. These five antelope were shot at an average distance +of about 150 yards. Those that I missed were, of course, much further +off on an average, and I usually emptied my magazine at each. The number +of cartridges spent would seem extraordinary to a tyro; and a very +unusually skillful shot, or else a very timid shot who fears to take +risks, will of course make a better showing per head killed; but I doubt +if men with much experience in antelope hunting, who keep an accurate +account of the cartridges they expend, will see anything out of the way +in the performance. During the thirteen years I have hunted in the West +I have always, where possible, kept a record of the number of cartridges +expended for every head of game killed, and of the distances at which it +was shot. I have found that with bison, bears, moose, elk, caribou, +big-horn and white goats, where the animals shot at were mostly of +large size and usually stationary, and where the mountainous or wooded +country gave chance for a close approach, the average distance at which +I have killed the game has been eighty yards, and the average number of +cartridges expended per head slain three: one of these representing the +death shot and the others standing either for misses outright, of which +there were not very many, or else for wounding game which escaped, or +which I afterward overtook, or for stopping cripples or charging beasts. +I have killed but one cougar and two peccaries, using but one cartridge +for each; all three were close up. At wolves and coyotes I have +generally had to take running shots at very long range, and I have +killed but two for fifty cartridges. Blacktail deer I have generally +shot at about ninety yards, at an expenditure of about four cartridges +apiece. Whitetail I have killed at shorter range; but the shots were +generally running, often taken under difficult circumstances, so that my +expenditure of cartridges was rather larger. Antelope, on the other +hand, I have on the average shot at a little short of 150 yards, and +they have cost me about nine cartridges apiece. This, of course, as I +have explained above, does not mean that I have missed eight out of nine +antelope, for often the entire nine cartridges would be spent at an +antelope which I eventually got. It merely means that, counting all the +shots of every description fired at antelope, I had one head to show for +each nine cartridges expended. Thus, the first antelope I shot in 1893 +cost me ten cartridges, of which three hit him, while the seven that +missed were fired at over 400 yards' distance while he was running. We +saw him while we were with the wagon. As we had many miles to go before +sunset, we cared nothing about frightening other game, and, as we had no +fresh meat, it was worth while to take some chances to procure it. When +I first fired, the prongbuck had already been shot at and was in full +flight. He was beyond all reasonable range, but some of our bullets went +over him and he began to turn. By running to one side I got a shot at +him at a little over 400 paces, as he slowed to a walk, bewildered by +the firing, and the bullet broke his hip. I missed him two or three +times as he plunged off, and then by hard running down a water course +got a shot at 180 paces and broke his shoulder, and broke his neck with +another bullet when I came up. This one was shot while going out to the +hunting ground. While there, Lambert killed four or five; most of the +meat we gave away. I did not fire again until on our return, when I +killed another buck one day while we were riding with the wagon. + +The day was gray and overcast. There were slight flurries of snow, and +the cold wind chilled us as it blew across the endless reaches of +sad-colored prairie. Behind us loomed Sentinel Butte, and all around the +rolling surface was broken by chains of hills, by patches of bad lands, +or by isolated, saddle-shaped mounds. The ranch wagon jolted over the +uneven sward, and plunged in and out of the dry beds of the occasional +water courses; for we were following no road, but merely striking +northward across the prairie toward the P. K. ranch. We went at a good +pace, for the afternoon was bleak, the wagon was lightly loaded, and the +Sheriff, who was serving for the nonce as our teamster and cook, kept +the two gaunt, wild-looking horses trotting steadily. Lambert and I rode +to one side on our unkempt cow ponies, our rifles slung across the +saddle bows. + +Our stock of fresh meat was getting low and we were anxious to shoot +something; but in the early hours of the afternoon we saw no game. Small +parties of horned larks ran along the ground ahead of the wagon, +twittering plaintively as they rose, and occasional flocks of longspurs +flew hither and thither; but of larger life we saw nothing, save +occasional bands of range horses. The drought had been very severe and +we were far from the river, so that we saw no horned stock. Horses can +travel much further to water than cattle, and, when the springs dry up, +they stay much further out on the prairie. + +At last we did see a band of four antelope, lying in the middle of a +wide plain, but they saw us before we saw them, and the ground was so +barren of cover that it was impossible to get near them. Moreover, they +were very shy and ran almost as soon as we got our eyes on them. For an +hour or two after this we jogged along without seeing anything, while +the gray clouds piled up in the west and the afternoon began to darken; +then, just after passing Saddle Butte, we struck a rough prairie road, +which we knew led to the P. K. ranch--a road very faint in places, while +in others the wheels had sunk deep in the ground and made long, +parallel ruts. + +Almost immediately after striking this road, on topping a small rise, we +discovered a young prongbuck standing off a couple of hundred yards to +one side, gazing at the wagon with that absorbed curiosity which in this +game so often conquers its extreme wariness and timidity, to a certain +extent offsetting the advantage conferred upon it by its marvelous +vision. The little antelope stood broadside, too, gazing at us out of +its great bulging eyes, the sharply contrasted browns and whites of its +coat showing plainly. Lambert and I leaped off our horses immediately, +and I knelt and pulled the trigger; but the cartridge snapped, and the +little buck, wheeling around, cantered off, the white hairs on its rump +all erect, as is always the case with the pronghorn when under the +influence of fear or excitement. My companion took a hasty, running +shot, with no more effect than changing the canter into a breakneck +gallop; and, though we opened on it as it ran, it went unharmed over the +crest of rising ground in front. We ran after it as hard as we could +pelt up the hill, into a slight valley, and then up another rise, and +again got a glimpse of it standing, but this time further off than +before; and again our shots went wild. + +However, the antelope changed its racing gallop to a canter while still +in sight, going slower and slower, and, what was rather curious, it did +not seem much frightened. We were naturally a good deal chagrined at our +shooting and wished to retrieve ourselves, if possible; so we ran back +to the wagon, got our horses and rode after the buck. He had continued +his flight in a straight line, gradually slackening his pace, and a +mile's brisk gallop enabled us to catch a glimpse of him, far ahead and +merely walking. The wind was bad, and we decided to sweep off and try to +circle round ahead of him. Accordingly, we dropped back, turned into a +slight hollow to the right, and galloped hard until we came to the foot +of a series of low buttes, when we turned more to the left; and, when we +judged that we were about across the antelope's line of march, leaped +from our horses, threw the reins over their heads, and left them +standing, while we stole up the nearest rise; and, when close to the +top, took off our caps and pushed ourselves forward, flat on our faces, +to peep over. We had judged the distance well, for we saw the antelope +at once, now stopping to graze. Drawing back, we ran along some little +distance nearer, then drew up over the same rise. He was only about 125 +yards off, and this time there was no excuse for my failing to get him; +but fail I did, and away the buck raced again, with both of us shooting. +My first two shots were misses, but I kept correcting my aim and holding +further in front of the flying beast. My last shot was taken just as the +antelope reached the edge of the broken country, in which he would have +been safe; and almost as I pulled the trigger I had the satisfaction of +seeing him pitch forward and, after turning a complete somersault, lie +motionless. I had broken his neck. He had cost us a good many +cartridges, and, though my last shot was well aimed, there was doubtless +considerable chance in my hitting him, while there was no excuse at all +for at least one of my previous misses. Nevertheless, all old hunters +know that there is no other kind of shooting in which so many cartridges +are expended for every head of game bagged. + +As we knelt down to butcher the antelope, the clouds broke and the rain +fell. Hastily we took off the saddle and hams, and, packing them behind +us on our horses, loped to the wagon in the teeth of the cold storm. +When we overtook it, after some sharp riding, we threw in the meat, and +not very much later, when the day was growing dusky, caught sight of the +group of low ranch buildings toward which we had been headed. We were +received with warm hospitality, as one always is in a ranch country. We +dried our steaming clothes inside the warm ranch house and had a good +supper, and that night we rolled up in our blankets and tarpaulins, and +slept soundly in the lee of a big haystack. The ranch house stood in the +winding bottom of a creek; the flanking hills were covered with stunted +cedar, while dwarf cottonwood and box elder grew by the pools in the +half-dried creek bed. + +Next morning we had risen by dawn. The storm was over, and it was clear +and cold. Before sunrise we had started. We were only some thirty miles +from my ranch, and I directed the Sheriff how to go there, by striking +east until he came to the main divide, and then following that down till +he got past a certain big plateau, when a turn to the right down any of +the coulees would bring him into the river bottom near the ranch house. +We wished ourselves to ride off to one side and try to pick up another +antelope. However, the Sheriff took the wrong turn after getting to the +divide, and struck the river bottom some fifteen miles out of his way, +so that we reached the ranch a good many hours before he did. + +When we left the wagon we galloped straight across country, looking out +from the divide across the great rolling landscape, every feature +standing clear through the frosty air. Hour after hour we galloped on +and on over the grassy seas in the glorious morning. Once we stopped, +and I held the horses while Lambert stalked and shot a fine prongbuck; +then we tied his head and hams to our saddles and again pressed forward +along the divide. We had hoped to get lunch at a spring that I knew of +some twelve miles from my ranch, but when we reached it we found it dry +and went on without halting. Early in the afternoon we came out on the +broad, tree-clad bottom on which the ranch house stands, and, threading +our way along the cattle trails, soon drew up in front of the gray, +empty buildings. + +Just as we were leaving the hunting grounds on this trip, after having +killed all the game we felt we had a right to kill, we encountered +bands of Sioux Indians from the Standing Rock and Cheyenne River +reservations coming in to hunt, and I at once felt that the chances for +much future sport in that particular district were small. Indians are +not good shots, but they hunt in great numbers, killing everything, +does, fawns and bucks alike, and they follow the wounded animals with +the utmost perseverance, so that they cause great destruction to game. + +Accordingly, in 1894, when I started for these same grounds, it was with +some misgivings; but I had time only to make a few days' hunt, and I +knew of no other accessible grounds where prongbuck were plentiful. My +foreman was with me, and we took the ranch wagon also, driven by a +cowboy who had just come up over the trail with cattle from Colorado. On +reaching our happy hunting grounds of the previous season, I found my +fears sadly verified; and one unforeseen circumstance also told against +me. Not only had the Indians made a great killing of antelope the season +before, but in the spring one or two sheep men had moved into the +country. We found that the big flocks had been moving from one spring +pool to another, eating the pasturage bare, while the shepherds whom we +met--wild-looking men on rough horses, each accompanied by a pair of +furtive sheep dogs--had taken every opportunity to get a shot at +antelope, so as to provide themselves with fresh meat. Two days of +fruitless hunting in this sheep-ridden region was sufficient to show +that the antelope were too scarce and shy to give us hope for sport, and +we shifted quarters, a long day's journey, to the head of another creek; +and we had to go to yet another before we found much game. As so often +happens on such a trip, when we started to have bad luck we had plenty. +One night two of the three saddle horses stampeded and went back +straight as the crow flies to their home range, so that we did not get +them until on our return from the trip. On another occasion the team +succeeded in breaking the wagon pole; and, as there was an entire +absence of wood where we were at the time, we had to make a splice for +it with the two tent poles and the picket ropes. Nevertheless it was +very enjoyable out on the great grassy plains. Although we had a tent +with us, I always slept in the open in my buffalo bag, with the +tarpaulin to pull over me if it rained. On each night before going to +sleep, I lay for many minutes gazing at the extraordinary multitude of +stars above, or watching the rising of the red moon, which was just at +or past the full. + +We had plenty of fresh meat--prairie fowl and young sage fowl for the +first twenty-four hours, and antelope venison afterward. We camped by +little pools, generally getting fair water; and from the camps where +there was plenty of wood we took enough to build the fires at those +where there was none. The nights were frosty, and the days cool and +pleasant, and from sunrise to sunset we were off riding or walking among +the low hills and over the uplands, so that we slept well and ate well, +and felt the beat of hardy life in our veins. + +Much of the time we were on a high divide between two creek systems, +from which we could see the great landmarks of all the regions +roundabout--Sentinel Butte, Square Butte and Middle Butte, far to the +north and east of us. Nothing could be more lonely and nothing more +beautiful than the view at nightfall across the prairies to these huge +hill masses, when the lengthening shadows had at last merged into one +and the faint glow of the red sun filled the west. The rolling prairie, +sweeping in endless waves to the feet of the great hills, grew purple as +the evening darkened, and the buttes loomed into vague, mysterious +beauty as their sharp outlines softened in the twilight. + +Even when we got out of reach of the sheep men we never found antelope +very plentiful, and they were shy, and the country was flat, so that the +stalking was extremely difficult; yet I had pretty good sport. The first +animal I killed was a doe, shot for meat, because I had twice failed to +get bucks at which I emptied my magazine at long range, and we were all +feeling hungry for venison. After that I killed nothing but bucks. Of +the five antelope killed, one I got by a headlong gallop to cut off his +line of flight. As sometimes happens with this queer, erratic animal, +when the buck saw that I was trying to cut off his flight he simply +raced ahead just as hard as he knew how, and, as my pony was not fast, +he got to the little pass for which he was headed 200 yards ahead of me. +I then jumped off, and his curiosity made him commit the fatal mistake +of halting for a moment to look round at me. He was standing end on, and +offered a very small mark at 200 yards; but I made a good line shot, +and, though I held a trifle too high, I hit him in the head, and down he +came. Another buck I shot from under the wagon early one morning as he +was passing just beyond the picketed horses. The other three I got after +much maneuvering and long, tedious stalks. + +In some of the stalks, after infinite labor, and perhaps after crawling +on all fours for an hour, or pulling myself flat on my face among some +small sagebrush for ten or fifteen minutes, the game took alarm and went +off. Too often, also, when I finally did get a shot, it was under such +circumstances that I missed. Sometimes the game was too far; sometimes +it had taken alarm and was already in motion. Once in the afternoon I +had to spend so much time waiting for the antelope to get into a +favorable place that, when I got up close, I found the light already so +bad that my front sight glimmered indistinctly, and the bullet went +wild. Another time I met with one of those misadventures which are +especially irritating. It was at midday, and I made out at a long +distance a band of antelope lying for their noon rest in a slight +hollow. A careful stalk brought me up within fifty yards of them. I was +crawling flat on my face, for the crest of the hillock sloped so gently +that this was the only way to get near them. At last, peering through +the grass, I saw the head of a doe. In a moment she saw me and jumped to +her feet, and up stood the whole band, including the buck. I immediately +tried to draw a bead on the latter, and to my horror found that, lying +flat as I was, and leaning on my elbows. I could not bring the rifle +above the tall, shaking grass, and was utterly unable to get a sight. In +another second away tore all the antelope. I jumped to my feet, took a +snap shot at the buck as he raced round a low-cut bank and missed, and +then walked drearily home, chewing the cud of my ill luck. Yet again in +more than one instance, after making a good stalk upon a band seen at +some distance, I found it contained only does and fawns, and would not +shoot at them. + +Three times, however, the stalk was successful. Twice I was out alone; +the other time my foreman was with me, and kept my horse while I +maneuvered hither and thither, and finally succeeded in getting into +range. In both the first instances I got a standing shot, but on this +last occasion, when my foreman was with me, two of the watchful does +which were in the band saw me before I could get a shot at the old buck. +I was creeping up a low washout, and, by ducking hastily down again and +running back and up a side coulee, I managed to get within long range of +the band as they cantered off, not yet thoroughly alarmed. The buck was +behind, and I held just ahead of him. He plunged to the shot, but went +off over the hill crest. When I had panted up to the ridge, I found him +dead just beyond. + +One of the antelope I killed while I was out on foot at nightfall, a +couple of miles from the wagon; I left the shoulders and neck, carrying +in the rest of the carcass on my back. On the other occasion I had my +horse with me and took in the whole antelope, packing it behind the +saddle, after it was dressed and the legs cut off below the knees. In +packing an antelope or deer behind the saddle, I always cut slashes +through the sinews of the legs just above the joints; then I put the +buck behind the saddle, run the picket rope from the horn of the saddle, +under the belly of the horse, through the slashes in the legs on the +other side, bring the end back, swaying well down on it, and fasten it +to the horn; then I repeat the same feat for the other side. Packed in +this way, the carcass always rides perfectly steady, and can not, by any +possibility, shake loose. Of course, a horse has to have some little +training before it will submit to being packed. + +The above experiences are just about those which befall the average +ranchman when he is hunting antelope. To illustrate how much less apt he +is to spend as many shots while after other game, I may mention the last +mountain sheep and last deer I killed, each of which cost me but a +single cartridge. + +The bighorn was killed in the fall of 1894, while I was camped on the +Little Missouri, some ten miles below my ranch. The bottoms were broad +and grassy, and were walled in by rows of high, steep bluffs, with back +of them a mass of broken country, in many places almost impassable for +horses. The wagon was drawn up on the edge of the fringe of tall +cottonwoods which stretched along the brink of the shrunken river. The +weather had grown cold, and at night the frost gathered thickly on our +sleeping bags. Great flocks of sandhill cranes passed overhead from time +to time, the air resounding with their strange, musical, guttural +clangor. + +For several days we had hunted perseveringly, but without success, +through the broken country. We had come across tracks of mountain sheep, +but not the animals themselves, and the few blacktail which we had seen +had seen us first and escaped before we could get within shot. The only +thing killed had been a whitetail fawn, which Lambert had knocked over +by a very pretty shot as we were riding through a long, heavily-timbered +bottom. Four men in stalwart health and taking much outdoor exercise +have large appetites, and the flesh of the whitetail was almost gone. + +One evening Lambert and I hunted nearly to the head of one of the creeks +which opened close to our camp, and, in turning to descend what we +thought was one of the side coulees leading into it, we contrived to get +over the divide into the coulees of an entirely different creek system, +and did not discover our error until it was too late to remedy it. We +struck the river about nightfall, and were not quite sure where, and had +six miles' tramp in the dark along the sandy river bed and through the +dense timber bottoms, wading the streams a dozen times before we finally +struck camp, tired and hungry, and able to appreciate to the full the +stew of hot venison and potatoes, and afterward the comfort of our +buffalo and caribou hide sleeping bags. The next morning the Sheriff's +remark of "Look alive, you fellows, if you want any breakfast," awoke +the other members of the party shortly after dawn. It was bitterly cold +as we scrambled out of our bedding, and, after a hasty wash, huddled +around the fire, where the venison was sizzling and the coffee-pot +boiling, while the bread was kept warm in the Dutch oven. About a third +of a mile away to the west the bluffs, which rose abruptly from the +river bottom, were crowned by a high plateau, where the grass was so +good that over night the horses had been led up and picketed on it, and +the man who had led them up had stated the previous evening that he had +seen what he took to be fresh footprints of a mountain sheep crossing +the surface of a bluff fronting our camp. The footprints apparently +showed that the animal had been there since the camp had been pitched. +The face of the cliff on this side was very sheer, the path by which the +horses scrambled to the top being around a shoulder and out of sight of +camp. + +While sitting close up around the fire finishing breakfast, and just as +the first level sunbeams struck the top of the plateau, we saw on this +cliff crest something moving, and at first supposed it to be one of the +horses which had broken loose from its picket pin. Soon the thing, +whatever it was, raised its head, and we were all on our feet in a +moment, exclaiming that it was a deer or a sheep. It was feeding in +plain sight of us only about a third of a mile distant, and the horses, +as I afterward found, were but a few rods beyond it on the plateau. The +instant I realized that it was game of some kind I seized my rifle, +buckled on my cartridge belt, and slunk off toward the river bed. As +soon as I was under the protection of the line of cottonwoods, I trotted +briskly toward the cliff, and when I got to where it impinged on the +river I ran a little to the left, and, selecting what I deemed to be a +favorable place, began to make the ascent. The animal was on the grassy +bench, some eight or ten feet below the crest, when I last saw it; but +it was evidently moving hither and thither, sometimes on this bench and +sometimes on the crest itself, cropping the short grass and browsing on +the young shrubs. The cliff was divided by several shoulders or ridges, +there being hollows like vertical gullies between them, and up one of +these I scrambled, using the utmost caution not to dislodge earth or +stones. Finally I reached the bench just below the sky line, and then, +turning to the left, wriggled cautiously along it, hat in hand. The +cliff was so steep and bulged so in the middle, and, moreover, the +shoulders or projecting ridges in the surface spoken of above were so +pronounced, that I knew it was out of the question for the animal to +have seen me, but I was afraid it might have heard me. The air was +absolutely still, and so I had no fear of its sharp nose. Twice in +succession I peered with the utmost caution over shoulders of the cliff, +merely to see nothing beyond save another shoulder some forty or fifty +yards distant. Then I crept up to the edge and looked over the level +plateau. Nothing was in sight excepting the horses, and these were close +up to me, and, of course, they all raised their heads to look. I +nervously turned half round, sure that if the animal, whatever it was, +was in sight, it would promptly take the alarm. However, by good luck, +it appeared that at this time it was below the crest on the terrace or +bench already mentioned, and, on creeping to the next shoulder, I at +last saw it--a yearling mountain sheep--walking slowly away from me, and +evidently utterly unsuspicious of any danger. I straightened up, +bringing my rifle to my shoulder, and as it wheeled I fired, and the +sheep made two or three blind jumps in my direction. So close was I to +the camp, and so still was the cold morning, that I distinctly heard one +of the three men, who had remained clustered about the fire eagerly +watching my movements, call, "By George, he's missed; I saw the bullet +strike the cliff." I had fired behind the shoulders, and the bullet, of +course going through, had buried itself in the bluff beyond. The wound +was almost instantaneously fatal, and the sheep, after striving in vain +to keep its balance, fell heels over head down a crevice, where it +jammed. I descended, released the carcass and pitched it on ahead of me, +only to have it jam again near the foot of the cliff. Before I got it +loose I was joined by my three companions, who had been running headlong +toward me through the brush ever since the time they had seen the animal +fall. + +I never obtained another sheep under circumstances which seemed to me +quite so remarkable as these; for sheep are, on the whole, the wariest +of game. Nevertheless, with all game there is an immense amount of +chance in the chase, and it is perhaps not wholly uncharacteristic of a +hunter's luck that, after having hunted faithfully in vain and with much +hard labor for several days through a good sheep country, we should at +last have obtained one within sight and earshot of camp. Incidentally I +may mention that I have never tasted better mutton, or meat of any kind, +than that furnished by this tender yearling. + +In 1894, on the last day I spent at the ranch, and with the last bullet +I fired from my rifle, I killed a fine whitetail buck. I left the ranch +house early in the afternoon on my favorite pony, Muley, my foreman +riding with me. After going a couple of miles, by sheer good luck we +stumbled on three whitetail--a buck, a doe and a fawn--in a long winding +coulee, with a belt of timber running down its bottom. When we saw the +deer, they were trying to sneak off, and immediately my foreman galloped +toward one end of the coulee and started to ride down through it, while +I ran Muley to the other end to intercept the deer. They were, of +course, quite likely to break off to one side, but this happened to be +one of the occasions when everything went right. When I reached the spot +from which I covered the exits from the timber, I leaped off, and +immediately afterward heard a shout from my foreman that told me the +deer were on foot. Muley is a pet horse, and he enjoys immensely the +gallop after game; but his nerves invariably fail him at the shot. He +stood snorting beside me, and finally, as the deer came in sight, away +he tore--only to go about 200 yards, however, and stand and watch us +with his ears pricked forward until, when I needed him, I went for him. +At the moment, however, I paid no heed to Muley, for a cracking in the +brush told me the game was close, and in another moment I caught the +shadowy outlines of the doe and the fawn as they scudded through the +timber. By good luck, the buck, evidently flurried, came right on the +edge of the woods next to me, and, as he passed, running like a quarter +horse, I held well ahead of him and pulled the trigger. The bullet broke +his neck and down he went--a fine fellow with a handsome ten-point head, +and fat as a prize sheep; for it was just before the rut. Then we rode +home, and I sat in a rocking-chair on the ranch house veranda, looking +across the river at the strangely shaped buttes and the groves of +shimmering cottonwoods until the sun went down and the frosty air bade +me go in. + + * * * * * + +I wish that members of the Boone and Crockett Club, and big game hunters +generally, would make a point of putting down all their experiences with +game, and with any other markworthy beasts or birds, in the regions +where they hunt, which would be of interest to students of natural +history; noting any changes of habits in the animals and any causes that +tend to make them decrease in numbers, giving an idea of the times at +which the different larger beasts became extinct, and the like. Around +my ranch on the Little Missouri there have been several curious changes +in the fauna. Thus, magpies have greatly decreased in number, owing, I +believe, mainly to the wolf-hunters. Magpies often come around carcasses +and eat poisoned baits. I have seen as many as seven lying dead around a +bait. They are much less plentiful than they formerly were. In this last +year, 1894, I saw one large party; otherwise only two or three +stragglers. This same year I was rather surprised at meeting a +porcupine, usually a beast of the timber, at least twenty miles from +trees. He was grubbing after sagebrush roots on the edge of a cut bank +by a half-dried creek. I was stalking an antelope at the time, and +stopped to watch him for about five minutes. He paid no heed to me, +though I was within three or four paces of him. Both the luciver, or +northern lynx, and the wolverine have been found on the Little Missouri, +near the Kildeer Mountains, but I do not know of a specimen of either +that has been killed there for some years past. The blackfooted ferret +was always rare, and is rare now. But few beaver are left; they were +very abundant in 1880, but were speedily trapped out when the Indians +vanished and the Northern Pacific Railroad was built. While this +railroad was building, the bears frequently caused much trouble by +industriously damming the culverts. + +With us the first animal to disappear was the buffalo. In the old days, +say from 1870 to 1880, the buffalo were probably the most abundant of +all animals along the Little Missouri in the region that I know, +ranging, say, from Pretty Buttes to the Killdeer Mountains. They were +migratory, and at times almost all of them might leave; but, on the +whole, they were the most abundant of the game animals. In 1881 they +were still almost as numerous as ever. In 1883 all were killed but a few +stragglers, and the last of these stragglers that I heard of as seen in +our immediate neighborhood was in 1885. The second game animal in point +of abundance was the blacktail. It did not go out on the prairies, but +in the broken country adjoining the river it was far more plentiful than +any other kind of game. It is greatly reduced in numbers now. Blacktail +were not much slaughtered until the buffalo began to give out, say in +1882; but they are probably now not a twentieth as plentiful as they +were in that year. Elk were plentiful in 1880, though never anything +like as abundant as the buffalo and the blacktail. Only straggling +parties or individuals have been seen since 1883. The last I shot near +my ranch was in 1886; but two or three have been shot since, and a cow +and calf were seen, chased and almost roped by the riders on the +round-up in the fall of 1893. Doubtless one or two still linger even yet +in inaccessible places. Whitetail were never as numerous as the other +game, but they have held their own well. Though they have decreased in +numbers, the decrease is by no means as great as of the blacktail, and a +good many can be shot yet. A dozen years ago probably twenty blacktail +were killed for every one whitetail; now the numbers are about equal. +Antelope were plentiful in the old days, though not nearly so much so as +buffalo and blacktail. The hunters did not molest them while the buffalo +and elk lasted, and they then turned their attention to the blacktails. +For some years after 1880 I think the pronghorn in our neighborhood +positively increased in numbers. In 1886 I thought them more plentiful +than I had ever known them before. Since then they have decreased, and +in the last two years the decrease has been quite rapid. Mountain sheep +were never very plentiful, and during the last dozen years they have +decreased proportionately less than any other game. Bears have decreased +in numbers, and have become very shy and difficult to get at; they were +never plentiful. Cougars were always very scarce. + +There were two stages of hunting in our country, as in almost all other +countries similarly situated. In 1880 the Northern Pacific Railroad was +built nearly to the edge of the Bad Lands, and the danger of Indian war +was totally eliminated. A great inrush of hunters followed. In 1881, +1882 and 1883 buffalo, elk and blacktail were slaughtered in enormous +numbers, and a good many whitetail and prongbuck were killed too. By +1884 the game had been so thinned out that hide hunting and meat hunting +had ceased to pay. A few professional hunters remained, but most of them +moved elsewhere, or were obliged to go into other business. From that +time the hunting has chiefly been done by the ranchers and occasional +small grangers. In consequence, for six or eight years the game about +held its own--the antelope, as I have said above, at one time +increasing; but the gradual increase in the number of actual settlers is +now beginning to tell, and the game is becoming slowly scarcer. + +The only wild animals that have increased with us are the wolves. These +are more plentiful now than they were ten years ago. I have never known +them so numerous or so daring in their assaults on stock as in 1894. +They not only kill colts and calves, but full-grown steers and horses. +Quite a number have been poisoned, but they are very wary about taking +baits. Quite a number also have been roped by the men on the round-up +who have happened to run across them when gorged from feeding at a +carcass. Nevertheless, for the last few years they have tended to +increase in numbers, though they are so wary, and nowadays so strictly +nocturnal in their habits, that they are not often seen. This great +increase, following a great diminution, in the number of wolves along +the Little Missouri is very curious. Twenty years ago, or thereabouts, +wolves were common, and they were then frequently seen by every traveler +and hunter. With the advent of the wolfers, who poisoned them for their +skins, they disappeared, the disappearance being only partly explicable, +however, by the poisoning. For a number of years they continued scarce; +but during the last four or five they have again grown numerous, why I +cannot say. I wish that there were sufficient data at hand to tell +whether they have decreased during these four or five years in +neighboring regions, say in central and eastern Montana. Another curious +feature of the case is that the white wolves, which in the middle of +the century were so common in this region, are now very rare. I have +heard of but one, which was seen on the upper Cannon Ball in 1892. One +nearly black wolf was killed in 1893. + +I suppose all hunters are continually asked what rifles they use. Any +good modern rifle is good enough, and, after a certain degree of +excellence in the weapon is attained, the difference between it and a +somewhat better rifle counts for comparatively little compared to the +difference in the skill, nerve and judgment of the men using them. +Moreover, there is room for a great deal of individual variation of +opinion among experts as to rifles. I personally prefer the Winchester. +I used a .45-75 until I broke it in a fall while goat-hunting, and since +then I have used a .45-90. For my own use I consider either gun much +preferable to the .500 and .577 caliber double-barreled Express for use +with bears, buffalo, moose and elk; yet my brother, for instance, always +preferred the double-barreled Express; Mr. Theodore Van Dyke prefers the +large bore, and Mr. H. L. Stimson has had built a special .577 +Winchester, which he tells me he finds excellent for grizzly bears. +There is the same difference of opinion among men who hunt game on +other continents than ours. Thus, Mr. Royal Carroll, in shooting +rhinoceros, buffalo and the like in South Africa, preferred big, heavy +English double-barrels; while Mr. William Chanler, after trying these +same double-barrels, finally threw them aside in favor of the .45-90 +Winchester for use even against such large and thick-hided beasts as +rhinoceros. There was an amusing incident connected with Mr. Chanler's +experiences. In a letter to the London _Field_ he happened to mention +that he preferred, for rhinoceros and other large game, the .45-90 +Winchester to the double-barrel .577, so frequently produced by the +English gun makers. His letter was followed by a perfect chorus of +protests in the shape of other letters by men who preferred the +double-barrel. These men had a perfect right to their opinions, but the +comic feature of their letters was that, as a rule, they almost seemed +to think that Mr. Chanler's preference of the .45-90 repeater showed +some kind of moral delinquency on his part; while the gun maker, whose +double-barrel Mr. Chanler had discarded in favor of the Winchester, +solemnly produced tests to show that the bullets from his gun had more +penetration than those from the Winchester--which had no more to do with +the question than the production by the Winchester people of targets to +show that this weapon possessed superior accuracy would have had. Of +course, the element of penetration is only one of twenty entering into +the question; accuracy, handiness, rapidity of fire, penetration, +shock--all have to be considered. Penetration is useless after a certain +point has been reached. Shock is useless if it is gained at too great +expense of penetration or accuracy. Flatness of trajectory, though +admirable, is not as important as accuracy, and when gained at a great +expense of accuracy is simply a disadvantage. All of these points are +admirably discussed in Mr. A. C. Gould's "Modern American Rifles." In +the right place, a fair-sized bullet is as good as a very big one; in +the wrong place, the big one is best; but the medium one will do more +good in the right place than the big one away from its right place; and +if it is more accurate it is therefore preferable. + +Entirely apart from the merit of guns, there is a considerable element +of mere fashion in them. For the last twenty years there has been much +controversy between the advocates of two styles of rifles--that is, the +weapon with a comparatively small bore and long, solid bullet and a +moderate charge of powder, and the weapon of comparatively large bore +with a very heavy charge of powder and a short bullet, often with a +hollow end. The first is the type of rifle that has always been used by +ninety-nine out of a hundred American hunters, and indeed it is the only +kind of rifle that has ever been used to any extent in North America; +the second is the favorite weapon of English sportsmen in those grandest +of the world's hunting grounds, India and South Africa. When a +single-shot rifle is not used, the American usually takes a repeater, +the Englishman a double-barrel. Each type has some good qualities that +the other lacks, and each has some defects. The personal equation must +always be taken into account in dealing with either; excellent sportsmen +of equal experience give conflicting accounts of the performances of the +two types. Personally, I think that the American type is nearer right. +In reading the last book of the great South African hunter, Mr. Selous, +I noticed with much interest that in hunting elephants he and many of +the Dutch elephant hunters had abandoned the huge four and eight bores +championed by that doughty hunter, Sir Samuel Baker, and had adopted +precisely the type of rifle which was in almost universal use among the +American buffalo hunters from 1870 to 1883--that is, a rifle of .45 +caliber, shooting 75 grains of powder and a bullet of 550 grains. The +favorite weapon of the American buffalo hunter was a Sharps rifle of .45 +caliber, shooting about 550 grains of lead and using ordinarily 90 to +110 grains of powder--which, however, was probably not as strong as the +powder used by Mr. Selous; in other words, the types of gun were +identically the same. I have elsewhere stated that by actual experience +the big double-barreled English eight and ten bores were found inferior +to Sharps rifle for bison-hunting on the Western plains. I know nothing +about elephant or rhinoceros shooting; but my own experience with bison, +bear, moose and elk has long convinced me that for them and for all +similar animals (including, I have no doubt, the lion and tiger) the +.45-90 type of repeater is, on the whole, the best of the existing +sporting rifles for my own use. I have of late years loaded my +cartridges not with the ordinary rifle powder, but with 85 grains of +Orange lightning, and have used a bullet with 350 grains of lead, and +then have bored a small hole, taking out 15 or 20 grains, in the point; +but for heavy game I think the solid bullet better. Judging from what I +have been told by some of my friends, however, it seems not unlikely +that the best sporting rifle will ultimately prove to be the very small +caliber repeating rifle now found in various forms in the military +service of all countries--a caliber of say .256 or .310, with 40 grains +of powder and a 200-grain bullet. These rifles possess marvelous +accuracy and a very flat trajectory. The speed of the bullet causes it +to mushroom if made of lead, and gives it great penetration if hardened. +Certain of my friends have used rifles of this type on bears, caribou +and deer; they were said to be far superior to the ordinary sporting +rifle. A repeating rifle of this type is really merely a much more +perfect form of the repeating rifles that have for so long been +favorites with American hunters. + +But these are merely my personal opinions; and, as I said before, among +the many kinds of excellent sporting rifles turned out by the best +modern makers each has its special good points and its special defects; +and equally good sportsmen, of equally wide experience, will be found to +vary widely in their judgment of the relative worth of the different +weapons. Some people can do better with one rifle and some with another, +and in the long run it is "the man behind the gun" that counts most. + +_Theodore Roosevelt._ + + + + +Wolf-Coursing + + +While wolf-coursing is one of the most thrilling and exciting sports to +be enjoyed in this country, it is less indulged in than any other sport; +this, too, in the face of the fact that no country offers such excellent +opportunities for its practice. This is, no doubt, due to the fact that +it is a sport requiring special preparation, a thorough knowledge of +both the game and country, and is very trying on horse, rider and hound. +Russia seems to be the only country in which it has a foothold and a +permanent place in the hearts of its sportsmen. In fact, with the +Russians it might be called a national pastime. However, did it require +in this country the same outlay of money, time and preparation that it +does in Russia, I doubt very much its advancement as a sport. + +There are really but two species of wolf in this country--the timber +wolf, generally called the gray, and the prairie wolf or coyote. In +different sections one hears of other varieties; but these, I believe, +are merely variations in color and size, and are not specific +differences. While the habits of the coyote or prairie wolf are well +known to a majority of sportsmen, it is not so with the timber or gray +wolf, and a few words in regard to the latter will not be amiss. + +[Illustration: THE WOLF THROWING ZLOOEM.] + +My experience is that the wolves of Montana and Wyoming are larger, +stronger and fiercer than those further south, though it is a fact that +the largest single wolf that I ever saw killed was in Arizona. However, +he was an exception to the general run of them there. If we may judge of +the Russian or European wolf from specimens to be seen in menageries and +zoölogical gardens, the American wolf, while not so tall or leggy, is +more compact, with heavier head, coarser muzzle, smaller ears, and +perhaps a little heavier in weight--the American wolf standing from 29 +to 36 inches at shoulder, and weighing from 85 to 125 pounds. I am also +inclined to think that the American wolf is, when run down to a +death-finish, a much more formidable foe for dogs than his European +relative. I reached this conclusion only after hunting them with +high-priced hounds, that had won medals in Russia for wolf-killing, but +which demonstrated their utter inability even to hold American wolves. + +Alive, the wolf is the enemy of man and beast, and when dead he is +almost useless. His skin has but little commercial value, and even dogs +refuse to eat his flesh. I have never known dogs to tear and mutilate a +wolf's carcass, and verily believe they would starve to death before +eating its flesh. And yet I have read accounts of hunters feeding their +dogs upon wolf meat. I recall an effort I made to cultivate in my dogs a +taste for wolf meat. I cut up a quantity of bear meat into small strips +and tossed them to the dogs, which would gulp them down before they +could fall upon the ground. Substituting a piece of wolf meat was of no +avail; they detected it instantly, and those which were fooled into +swallowing it immediately lost interest in the proceedings and walked +away. + +The wolf is by nature cowardly, being deficient in courage comparative +to his strength and great size, but he often becomes courageous from +necessity. When reduced to extremity by hunger, he braves danger, and +has been known in numbers to attack man, though no such incident ever +came under my personal observation. I have had them dog my footsteps +throughout a long day's hunt, always managing to remain just beyond +gunshot distance; and upon one occasion, when I had shot a pheasant, one +actually carried it off in full view before I could reach it, and, +notwithstanding I fired several shots that must have come uncomfortably +close, he made off with his dangerously earned meal. + +As a general thing, however, the wolf manifests a desire to run, rather +than fight, for life, and when alone will frequently tuck his tail +between his legs, and run like a stricken cur from a dog that he could +easily crush out of existence. They are great believers in the maxim, +"In union there is strength." The female, while apparently more timid +than the male, seems to lose all sense of danger when hemmed in and +forced to a fight, and attacks with intrepidity. I once shot a female at +long range, the bullet from my Winchester passing through her hind +quarters and breaking both legs. When I got up to her, she was +surrounded by the ranch dogs--an odd assortment of "mongrel puppy, whelp +and hound, and cur of low degree"--furiously attacking first one, then +another of them as they circled around her; and, though she was +partially paralyzed, dragging her hind quarters, she successfully stood +off the entire pack until another bullet ended the struggle. When in +whelp they fight with great obstinacy, and defend themselves with +intrepidity, being seemingly insensible to punishment. When captured +young they are susceptible of taming and domestication, though they are +never free from treachery. Though I have heard it denied, I know it to +be a fact that the dog has been successfully crossed upon the wolf. I +saw any number of the produce around the old Spotted Tail agency. They +closely resembled wolves, and were hardly distinguishable from them in +appearance, though generally lacking the good qualities of faithfulness +and attachment possessed by the dog. + +The amount of damage a wolf can do in a horse or cattle country is +almost beyond belief. He slaughters indiscriminately, carrying waste and +destruction to any section he honors with his presence. When a pack of +these nocturnal marauders come across an unprotected flock of sheep, a +sanguinary massacre occurs, and not until they have killed, torn or +mangled the entire flock will they return to the mountains. Thus the +wolves become a scourge, and their depredations upon herds of sheep and +cattle cause no inconsiderable loss to the rancher. They frequently +plunder for days and nights together. I am not prepared to state whether +it is owing to daintiness of appetite or pure love of killing, but as it +is a fact that a single wolf has been known to kill a hundred sheep in a +night, it would seem that this indiscriminate slaughter was more to +satisfy his malignity than his hunger. It is a prevalent idea that the +wolf will eat putrid meat. This I have not found to be true. He seldom +if ever devours carcasses after they begin to putrify, choosing to hunt +for fresh spoils rather than to return to that which he had half +devoured, before leaving it to the tender mercies of the coyotes, who +have an appetite less nice. + +The coyote is a good scavenger, following in the footsteps of the wolf, +and will pick bones until they glisten like ivory. His fondness for +domestic fowl and his thieving propensity often embolden him to enter +farmyards and even residences during the daytime; yet he often seems +contented to dine upon corrupt flesh, bones, hair, old boots and +saddles, and many remarkable gastronomic performances are credited to +him. I had occasion to "sleep out" one night in the Powder River +country, and, after picketing my horse, I threw my saddle upon the +ground near the picket pin, and, placing my cartridge belt beneath the +saddle--which I used as a pillow--I was soon sound asleep. Imagine my +surprise at daybreak--knowing there was not a human being within fifty +miles of me--to find that my cartridge belt was missing. After a short +search I found the cartridges some few hundred yards away, and a few +remnants of the belt. The coyotes had actually stolen this from under my +head without disturbing me, devoured it and licked all the grease from +the cartridges. I felt thankful that they had not devoured my rawhide +riata. + +Of all animals that I have hunted, I consider the wolf the hardest to +capture or kill. There is only one way in which he can be successfully +coped with, and that is with a pack of dogs trained to the purpose and +thoroughly understanding their business. Dogs, as a rule, have +sufficient combativeness to assail any animal, and, as a general thing, +two or three of them can easily kill another animal of same size and +weight; but the wolf, with his wonderful vitality and tenacity of life, +combined with his thickness of skin, matted hair and resistant muscles, +is anything but an easy victim for even six or eight times his number. + +I spent the winter of 1874-75 in a portion of the Rocky Mountains +uninhabited except by our own party. Wolves were very plentiful, and we +determined to secure as many pelts as possible. Owing to the rough +nature of the country and our inability to keep up with the dogs on +horseback, we tried poisoning, but with only moderate success. While +others claim it is an easy matter to poison wolves, we did not find it +so. In a country where game is plentiful, it is almost impossible to +poison them. We tried trapping them, with like results. Always +mistrustful and intensely suspicious, they imagine everything unusual +they see is a trap laid to betray or capture them, and with extreme +sagacity avoid everything strange and new. When caught, they frequently +gnaw off a foot or leg rather than be taken. Our cabin was surrounded by +a stockade wall, over which we could throw such portions of deer +carcasses as we did not use, and at nightfall the wolves, attracted by +the smell of the meat, would assemble on the outside, and we shot them +from the portholes. It required a death shot; for, if only wounded, no +matter how badly, they would manage to get far enough away from the +stockade to be torn into shreds by the survivors before we could drive +them off. I have always found the wolf a most difficult animal to shoot. +Endowed with wonderful powers of scent and extremely cunning, it is +almost impossible to stalk them. Frequently, after a long stalk after +one, have I raised my head to find him gone, his nose having warned him +of my approach. + +The successful chase of the wolf requires a species of knowledge that +can be acquired only by experience. It also requires men, horses and +dogs trained and disciplined for the purpose; and woe to the man, horse +or dog that undertakes it without such preparation. The true sportsman +is not a blood-thirsty animal. The actual killing of an animal, its mere +death, is not sport. Therefore, upon several occasions, I have declined +to join a general wolf round-up, where men form a cordon, and, by +beating the country, drive them to a common center and kill them +indiscriminately. I have always preferred hunting them with hounds to +any other method of extermination. The enjoyment of sport increases in +proportion to the amount of danger to man and beast engaged in it, and +for this reason coursing wolves has always held a peculiar fascination +for me. A number of years spent in the far West afforded me ample +opportunity to indulge my tastes in this line of sport, so my knowledge +of wolf-hunting and the habits of the wolf has been derived from +personal experience and from association with famous hunters. + +The principal drawback to the pleasure of wolf-coursing is the danger to +a good horse from bad footing, and the possible mutilation and death of +a favorite dog--death and destruction of hounds being often attendant +upon the capture and death of a full-grown wolf. I do not know that I +can give a better idea of the sport than by describing a day's +wolf-hunting I enjoyed in the early seventies near Raw Hide Butte, in +Wyoming. + +We had notified the cook, an odd character who went by the name of +Steamboat, to call us by daybreak. As we sat up late talking about the +anticipated pleasures of the morrow, it seemed to me that I had hardly +closed my eyes when Steamboat's heavy cavalry boots were heard beating a +tattoo on the shack door. I rolled out of my bunk, to find Maje and +Zach, my companions in the hunt, dressed and pulling on their shaps. +Hastily dressing, I followed them out to the corral just as the gray +tints of earliest morning were gathering in the sky. The horses had been +corralled the night before, and, with Steamboat standing in the door, +using anything but choice language at our delay in coming to breakfast, +we saddled up. Having ridden my own horse, a sturdy half-breed from Salt +Lake, very hard the day before in running down a wounded antelope, I +decided on a fresh mount; and, as luck would have it, I selected one of +the best lookers in the band, only to find out later, to my sorrow, that +I had fallen upon the only bucking horse in the lot. While we +breakfasted upon antelope steak, flapjacks and strong coffee, Steamboat +was harnessing a couple of wiry cayuses to a buckboard, and, as we came +out, we found him with the strike dogs chained to the seat behind him, +impatient to be off. The party consisted of Maje, a long-legged, +slab-sided, six-foot Kentuckian, mounted on a "States" horse; Zach, an +out-and-out typical cowboy, who had come up from Texas on the trail, +mounted on a pinto that did not look as though he had been fed since his +arrival in the territory, but, as Zach knowingly remarked, "No route was +too long or pace too hot for him"; Steamboat in the buckboard, holding +with a pair of slips Dan, an English greyhound, and Scotty, a Scotch +deerhound; while the other dogs, consisting of a pair of young +greyhounds, a pair of cross-bred grey and deerhounds, and Lead, an +old-time Southern foxhound, were making the horses miserable by jumping +first at their heads, then at their heels, in their eagerness to +facilitate the start; and myself on the bucking broncho. + +While crossing the creek a few hundred yards above the ranch, I heard +old Lead give mouth, a short distance ahead, in a chaparral rendered +impenetrable by tangled undergrowth, and which formed secure covert for +countless varmints. Knowing that he never threw his tongue without +cause, I dug my spurs into my horse, with the intention of joining him. +But I reckoned without my host, and for the next few minutes all my +energies were devoted to sticking to my horse, who then and there in the +creek bed proceeded to give an illustration of bucking that would have +put the wild West buckers to shame. Lead had jumped a coyote that put +off with all the speed that deadly terror could impart--all the dogs +after him full tilt. It required quite a display of energy upon the part +of Zach and his pinto to whip the dogs off; and, had it not been for the +fact that Dan and Scotty--who had jerked Steamboat literally out of the +buckboard and raced off together with the slips dangling about their +heels--ran into a bush, and the slips catching held them fast, we would +have been called upon to participate in a coyote and not a +wolf-hunt--as, when once slipped, no human power could have stopped +these dogs until they had tested the metal of Brer Coyote. By the time +Zach and the dogs returned, I had convinced my broncho that I was not a +tenderfoot, having "been there before," and he was contented to keep at +least two feet upon the ground at the same time. + +We rode probably five or six miles, carefully scanning the trackless +plains, without sighting a wolf, when Maje, who had ridden off a mile +to our right, was seen upon a butte wildly waving his hat. We +instinctively knew that game was afoot, and, as he disappeared, we +commenced a wild stampede for the butte. Steamboat, with slips and reins +in one hand and blacksnake whip in the other, came thundering after us, +lashing his team into a wild, mad run--and how he managed to hold +himself and dogs on the bounding buckboard was a mystery to me. Reaching +the butte, we espied Maje a mile away, riding for dear life. It did not +take long to decide, from the general direction taken, that the wolf +would shortly return to us. Keeping well back out of sight, we +impatiently awaited his return, and, had it not been for the pure +malignity of my broncho, the wolf would have doubled back within a few +hundred yards of us, and a close race have resulted. + +I had taken the dogs from Steamboat, and, with the release cord of the +slips around my wrist, sat in the saddle ready to sight and slip the +dogs. Becoming impatient under the restraint, the dogs ran behind my +horse, and, as the strap of the slips got under his tail, he again +commenced bucking, and before I could control him we were in full view +of the wolf, which, upon sighting us, veered off to the left. Although +not over a half mile away, the dogs failed to sight him. With a cheer to +the loose dogs, we pushed forward at top speed, the cracking of the +quirts upon our horses' flanks being echoed in the rear by the incessant +popping of Steamboat's whip as he lashed the panting cayuses to the top +of their speed in a vain effort to keep up with us. + +We joined Maje at the point where we had last seen the wolf, which by +this time had disappeared. Going over a rise, we dropped down into an +arroyo, where the foxhound again gave tongue, and started back on the +trail almost in the same direction in which we had come. Thinking that +for once he was at fault, and back-tracking, I took the two dogs in +slips up the arroyo, while Maje, Zach and the pack of dogs followed the +foxhound, and were soon out of sight and hearing. Circling around for +some distance and seeing no sign of the wolf, I rode upon a high point, +and, searching the country carefully through my glasses, I could see the +party probably a mile and a half away; and, from the manner in which +they were getting over the ground, I knew they had again sighted. A +hard ride of two miles, in which the dogs almost dragged me from my +horse in their eagerness, brought me within sighting distance of the +dogs--the voice of the foxhound, which was in the rear, floating back to +me in strong and melodious tones across the plains. Slipping Dan and +Scotty, they went from the slips like a pair of bullets and soon left me +far behind. Upon rounding a point of rocks, I saw one of the young dogs +lying upon the ground. A hasty glance showed me, from the violent manner +in which he strained to catch his breath, that he had tackled the wolf +and his windpipe was injured. It afterward developed that he had become +separated from the pack, and, in cutting across country, had imprudently +taken hold of the wolf, which, with one snap of his powerful jaws, had +utterly disabled him, and then continued his flight. Like most wolves, +he seemed to be able to keep up the pace he had set over all kinds of +ground. It seemed to him a matter of indifference whether the way was up +or down hill, and he evidently sought the roughest and stoniest ground, +following ravines and coulees--this giving him a great advantage over +horses and hounds. My horse beginning to show signs of distress, I +realized that, if the chase was to be a straightaway, I would see but +little of it and probably not be in at the death anyway; so I again +sought a high point that gave a commanding view over a large area of +country, and determined to await developments. Every once in a while, +with the aid of my glasses, I could see the pack, fairly well bunched, +straining every muscle, running as though for life. I could catch +occasional glimpses of the wolf far in advance, as he scurried through +the sagebrush, showing little power of strategy, but a determined +obstinacy to outfoot his relentless foes. + +Fortune again favored me. By degrees the superior speed and stamina of +the hounds began to tell, though both seemed to be running with +undiminished speed. The wolf, finding that, with all his speed and +cunning, they were slowly but surely overtaking him, circled in my +direction, and I was soon again an important factor in the hunt, urging +the dogs with shouts of encouragement. I was now near enough to note +that one of the young greyhounds, which had evidently been running +cunning by lying back and cutting across, was far in advance of the +pack--not over 100 yards behind the wolf, and gaining rapidly. Striking +a rise in the ground, he overtook the wolf and seized him by the +shoulder. The wolf seemed to drag him several yards before he reached +around, and with his powerful, punishing jaws gave him a slash that laid +his skull bare and rolled him over on the prairie. + +Slight as this interruption was, it encouraged Dan to greater effort, +and the next minute he had distanced the pack, nailed the wolf by the +jowl, and over they went, wolf on top. Scotty was but a few paces +behind, and, taking a hind hold, tried to stretch him. With a mighty +effort the wolf tore himself loose from both and started to run again. +He had not gone thirty paces before Scotty bowled him over again. +Rising, he sullenly faced his foes, who, with wholesome respect for his +glistening ivories, seemed to hesitate while recovering their wind, as +they were sadly blown after their long run, the day being an intensely +hot one. At this point I rode up. The wolf lay closely hugging the +ground, his swollen tongue protruding from foam-flecked chops, and with +keen and wary eye he watched the maddened pack circling about looking +for a vulnerable point. Varied experience in the art of self-defense +had taught him skill and quickness, and as each dog essayed to assail +him he found a threatening array of teeth. Throwing myself from the +saddle, I cheered them on. Dan and Scotty hesitated no longer, but +rushed savagely at him, one on either side, and the whole pack, +including the one recently scalped, regardless of his gaping wound, +followed them. + +For a few minutes the pile resembled a struggling mass of dogs, and the +air seemed filled with flying hair, fur and foam, and the snapping of +teeth was like castanets. At first the wolf seemed only intent upon +shaking off his foes and escaping, but the punishment he was receiving +could not long be borne; and from then on to the last gasp, with eyes +flaming with rage, every power seemingly put forth, he fought like a +demon possessed. As he tossed the dogs about, seemingly breaking their +hold at will, I was singularly impressed with his enormous size and +strength, his shaggy appearance and his generally savage look, and +suggested to Maje and Zach, who had come up in the meantime, that we +take a hand in the fray, as I doubted the ability of the dogs to finish +him without serious loss. However, we decided to give them the +opportunity, and ere long they had him _hors de combat_, stretched upon +the ground, his body crimson with his own life's blood, in the last +throes of death. He was one of the largest specimens I had ever seen, +weighing not less than 120 pounds, the green pelt weighing twenty-four. +His carcass, when stood up alongside of Scotty, seemed several inches +taller, and I afterward measured the latter and found him to be +thirty-one inches. + +All of the dogs received more or less punishment; none escaped +scathless, but really much less damage was done than I expected. This +was owing to the fact that Dan and Scotty, two of the staunchest seizers +I ever saw, engaged him constantly in front, while the other dogs +literally disemboweled him. Scotty had a bad cut on the side of the +neck, requiring several stitches to close, and the muscles of his +shoulder were laid bare; while Dan's most serious hurt was a cut from +dome of skull to corner of eye, from which he never entirely recovered, +as he ever afterward had a weeping eye. One of the cross-breeds, whose +pads were not well indurated, suffered from lacerated feet, and one of +his stoppers was torn almost off, necessitating removal. A wolf's bite +is both cruel and dangerous, and wounds on dogs are obstinate and very +hard to heal--more so than those of any other animal. While skinning the +wolf, our horses were standing with lowered heads, heaving flanks, +shaking and trembling limbs; my horse, much to my satisfaction, +evidently without a good buck left in him. + +After a full hour's rest for man and beast, we started back to the +ranch. Taking Steamboat with the buckboard, I went back to the point of +rocks with the intention of taking up the injured dog. Upon arrival +there no trace of him could be found; he had mysteriously disappeared. +Thinking that he had recovered sufficiently to make his way back to the +ranch, we increased our speed and soon joined the others, who had been +heading directly for home. The ride home was devoid of incident, the +monotony being occasionally broken by our frantic efforts to restrain +the dogs from chasing innumerable jack rabbits that bounded away on +three legs, in their most tantalizing way, inviting us to a chase. We +also got within rifle shot of a band of antelope, seeming quite at ease, +feeding and gamboling sportively with each other, until a pistol shot +at long range sent them skimming gracefully over the plains, finally +vanishing like a flying shadow in the distance. While crossing the creek +below, and within sight of the ranch, we again heard Lead give tongue in +the chaparral above the ranch, and in a few minutes he had a coyote +busy, doubtless the same one we had disturbed in taking a constitutional +in the morning. The dogs, now a sorry looking set, had been jogging +lazily along behind us, but in a moment were all life and action. Their +spirits were contagious, and, though we had positively agreed under no +circumstances to run a coyote, we very soon found ourselves flying after +the vanishing pack in full pursuit. A pretty race ensued. When first +dislodged the coyote appeared lame to such an extent that I thought his +leg broken; but after warming up this affection entirely disappeared, +and the pace was a hot one for the first mile. The dogs ran well +together, and were gradually lessening the gap between them and their +wily foe, who, realizing this, displayed tact in selecting the very +worst possible ground for footing, and soon regained his lost vantage. +It began to look as though the coyote would again give us the slip, +when one of the young dogs, that Zach in his excitement had ridden over +several minutes before and presumably killed, was seen to dash out from +a draw and bowl over the coyote. His hold was not a good one, but he +succeeded in turning the coyote, who then made a straight line for a +bunch of cattle grazing near, becoming temporarily unsighted among the +cattle. The dogs again fell behind, and when again sighted the coyote +was making a bee line for the ranch. By the time the creek was reached, +he was in evident distress and sorely pressed. With a final effort he +dashed through the creek up the opposite bank, and, as he dodged into +the open corral gate, one of the greyhounds flicked the hair from his +hind quarters. It was his last effort. By the time we reached the +corral, he was being literally pulled to pieces. We could not see that +he made additional wounds upon any of the dogs. In the excitement of the +finish of the chase I had lost Maje, and it was only after the death in +the corral that I missed him. Going to the adobe wall, I peered over and +saw him some distance away standing beside his horse. Upon going back to +him, we found that his horse had stepped into a prairie dog hole, +throwing him violently, and, turning a somersault, had landed upon him. +The only damage to Maje was, he had been converted for the time being +into a cactus pincushion; but his "States" horse had broken his fore leg +at the pastern joint and had to be shot. + +After the long run of the morning, this race afforded us ample scope for +testing both the speed and staying qualities of the dogs as well as of +our horses. + +We were disappointed in not finding the injured dog at the ranch. In +fact, he was never afterward heard of, and doubtless crawled away among +the rocks and died alone. After sewing up Scotty's wounds, dressing the +minor cuts of the other dogs and removing the cactus and prickly pear +points from their feet (the latter not a small job by any means), we +were soon doing full justice to Steamboat's satisfying if not appetizing +meal. + +In contrast to our simple preparations and equipment for this, an +average wolf-hunt in that country, wolf-hunts in Russia, as described to +me by my friend, St. Allen, of St. Petersburg, are certainly grand +affairs; but when the two methods of hunting are compared, I cannot but +believe that the balance of sport is in our favor. + +I have frequently been asked what breed of dogs I consider best for +wolf-hunting. Having tried nearly all kinds, experience and observation +justify me in asserting that the greyhound is undoubtedly the best. In +the first place, there is no question of their ability to catch wolves, +and, when properly bred and reared, their courage is undoubted. It is a +general supposition that the greyhound is devoid of the power of scent. +This is a mistake, as can be attested by anyone who has ever hunted them +generally in the West upon large game, especially wolves, which give a +stronger scent than any other animal. Of course, this power is not as +well developed in the greyhound as in other breeds, because the uses to +which he is put do not require scent, and, under the law of evolution, +it has deteriorated as a natural consequence. Unrivaled in speed and +endurance, these qualities have been developed and bred for, while the +olfactory organs have been necessarily neglected by restricting the work +of the dogs to sight hunting. Experience has taught me that they are the +only breed of dogs that, without special training or preparation, will +take hold and stay in the fight with the first wolf they encounter until +they have killed him. I have heard it said that this was because they +did not have sense enough to avoid a wolf. At all events, it is a fact +that they will unhesitatingly take hold of a wolf when dogs older, +stronger and better adapted to fighting will refuse to do so. I have +found that, while all dogs will hunt or run a fox spontaneously, with +seeming pleasure, they have a natural repugnance and great aversion to +the proverbially offensive odor peculiar to the wolf. I once hunted a +pack of high-bred foxhounds, noted for their courage. They had not only +caught and killed scores of red foxes, but had also been used in running +down and killing sheep-killing dogs. Though they had never seen a wolf, +I did not doubt for an instant that they would kill one. While they +trailed and ran him true, pulling him down in a few miles, they utterly +refused to break him up when caught. The following extract, from an +article I wrote some years ago on the "Greyhound," for the "American +Book of the Dog," expresses my views of the courage and adaptability of +the greyhound for wolf-hunting: + +"A general impression prevails that the greyhound is a timid animal, +lacking heart and courage. This may be true of some few strains of the +breed, but, could the reader have ridden several courses with me at +meetings of the American Coursing Club which I have judged, and have +seen greyhounds, as I have seen them, run until their hind legs refused +to propel them further, and then crawl on their breasts after a +thoroughly used up jack rabbit but a few feet in advance, the singing +and whistling in their throats plainly heard at fifty yards, literally +in the last gasp of death, trying to catch their prey, he or she would +agree with me in crediting them with both the qualities mentioned." + +In hunting the antelope, it is not an uncommon thing to see a greyhound, +especially in hot weather, continue the chase until he dies before his +master reaches him. An uninjured antelope is capable of giving any +greyhound all the work he can stand, and unless the latter is in prime +condition his chances are poor indeed to throttle. A peculiar feature of +the greyhound is that he always attacks large game in the throat, head +or fore part of the body. I have even seen them leave the line of the +jack rabbit to get at his throat. Old "California Joe," at one time +chief of scouts with Gen. Custer, in 1875 owned a grand specimen of the +greyhound called Kentuck, presented to him by Gen. Custer. I saw this +dog, in the Big Horn country, seize and throw a yearling bull buffalo, +which then dragged the dog on his back over rough stones, trampled and +pawed him until his ears were split, two ribs broken, and neck and fore +shoulders frightfully cut and lacerated, yet he never released his hold +until a Sharps rifle bullet through the heart of the buffalo ended the +unequal struggle. Talk about a lack of courage! I have seen many a +greyhound single-handed and alone overhaul and tackle a coyote, and in a +pack have seen them close in and take hold of a big gray timber wolf or +a mountain lion and stay throughout the fight, coming out bleeding and +quivering, with hardly a whole skin among them. In point of speed, +courage, fortitude, endurance and fine, almost human judgment, no +grander animal lives than the greyhound. He knows no fear; he turns from +no game animal on which he is sighted, no matter how large or how +ferocious. He pursues with the speed of the wind, seizes the instant he +comes up with the game, and stays in the fight until either he or the +quarry is dead. Of all dogs these are the highest in ambition and +courage, and, when sufficiently understood, they are capable of great +attachment. + +In selecting dogs for wolf-killing, the most essential qualities to be +desired are courage, strength and stamina to sustain continued exertion, +with plenty of force and dash. Training is a matter requiring unlimited +patience, coupled with firmness and judgment, and a large amount of love +for a dog. It also requires constant watchfulness of a dog's every +movement and mood to make a successful wolf-courser of him. Many a good +dog has been ruined at the outset by not being fully understood. + +They should receive their first practical work when about one year old, +provided they are sufficiently developed to stand the hard work +necessary. They generally have mind enough at this age to know what is +expected of them. It is, of course, better to hunt a young dog first +with older and experienced dogs, which will take hold of any kind of +game. The larger and stronger the dog, the better; for it requires +immense powers of endurance, hardihood and strength to hold, much less +kill, a wolf. The latter are particularly strong in the fore quarters +and muscles of the neck and jaw. As an evidence of their great strength, +I saw a wolf, while running at full speed, seize the Siberian wolfhound +Zlooem by the shoulder and throw him bodily into the air, landing him on +his back several feet away, and yet this wolf did not weigh as much as +the dog. + +Particular care should be taken to see that a young dog gets started +right in his practical training. Encourage him with your presence; do +all you can to see that he is sighted promptly; spare no expense or +pains in getting a good mount, and keep as close as possible during the +fighting; enliven him with your voice, and encourage him to renewed +effort; for his ardor increases in proportion to the encouragement and +praise received. Ride hard, to be in early at the death. His confidence +once gained, he will place implicit reliance in your assistance; but, +let him be beaten off once or twice through lack of encouragement, and +he will soon lose his relish for the sport and show a disposition to +hang back; while he may seem to be doing his best, a practiced eye will +soon detect a want of ardor and dash. A pack of hounds, with a good +strike dog and confidence in their owner, will carry everything before +them; by keeping them in good heart they always expect success to crown +their efforts. + +If from any cause in the final struggle the dogs are getting the worst +of it, or the other dogs refuse to assist the seizers, one must not +hesitate an instant about assisting them; this requires perfect +coolness, self-control and presence of mind, so as not to injure the +dog. To attempt the use of the pistol or gun is too dangerous. A +well-directed blow with a good strong hunting knife, delivered between +the shoulders, will generally break the spine, leaving the wolf entirely +at the mercy of the hounds. + +I would advise no one to attempt the Russian method of taping the jaws +while the wolf is held by the seizers. I had an experience of this kind +once. After a long chase, the wolf, in his efforts to escape, leaped a +wall, and, in alighting upon the farther side, thrust his head and neck +through a natural loop formed by a grapevine growing around a tree. +Reaching him as soon as the hounds, I fought them off; but, although he +was virtually as fast as if in a vise, it required the united efforts of +five of us to bind his legs and tape his jaws, and this was only +accomplished after a severe struggle of some minutes. I am sure I would +not have trusted any dog or dogs I ever hunted to have held him during +this operation. + +One should always be provided with a spool of surgeon's silk and a +needle, for these will assuredly be called into use. Old Major, a +greyhound owned by Dr. Van Hummel and myself, full of years and honors, +is still alive. He was a typical seizer and afraid of nothing that wore +hair. His entire body is seamed with innumerable scars, and has been +sewed up so often that he resembles a veritable piece of needlework. As +an evidence of his speed, strength and early training, I recollect that, +shortly after I had hunted him in the West, I had him at my home in +Kentucky. The Doctor was on a visit to me, and we had taken Major to the +country with us while inspecting stock farms. At Wyndom Place, where we +were admiring a handsome two-year-old Longfellow colt, running loose in +the field, the owner, before we were aware of his intention, set Major +after the colt "to show his speed and style." We both instantly saw his +error, but it was too late--we could not call the dog off. He soon +overhauled the colt, and, springing at his throat, down they went in a +heap--the colt, worth a thousand dollars, ruined for life. + +One of the most glaring instances of improper training and handling of +wolfhounds that ever came under my observation was the Colorado +wolf-hunt that attracted so much attention in the sporting press of this +country, England and Russia. Mr. Paul Hacke, an enthusiastic fancier, of +Pittsburg, Pa., while in Russia attended a wolf-killing contest in which +the barzois contested with captive wolves. He became so much enamored of +the sport that he purchased a number of trained barzois and brought them +to this country. They were a handsome lot and attracted much attention +while being exhibited at the bench shows. I was one of the official +judges at the Chicago Bench Show in 1892, and wolfhound classes were +assigned me. While I admired them very much for their handsome, showy +appearance, I expressed grave doubts as to their ability to catch and +kill timber wolves, notwithstanding I had read graphic accounts of +their killing coyotes in thirty-five seconds. This doubt was shared and +expressed by others present who had had practical experience in +wolf-hunting. This coming to the ears of Mr. Hacke, who is always +willing to back his opinion with his money, he issued a sweeping +challenge offering to match a pair of barzois against any pair of dogs +in the United States for a wolf-killing contest, for $500 a side. His +challenge was promptly accepted by Mr. Geo. McDougall, of Butte City, +Montana. + +I was selected to judge the match, and in the spring of 1892 we made up +a congenial carload and journeyed to Hardin, in the wilds of Colorado, +where our sleeper was sidetracked. Arrangements were made at an +adjoining horse ranch, and every morning a band of horses was promptly +on hand at daylight. On the night of our arrival at Hardin, a fine +saddle horse had been hamstrung in his owner's stable by wolves. It was +a pitiful sight, and added zest to our determination to exterminate as +many as possible. + +We were awakened from our sound sleep the first morning by the familiar +sounds of saddling, accompanied by the pawing and bucking of horses, +swearing of men, and snarling and growling of dogs. After a hasty +breakfast, eaten by lamplight, we were soon mounted and in motion for +the rendezvous. We had hardly crossed the Platte River, near which our +camp was located, before the advance guard announced a wolf in full +flight. A glance through my field-glasses convinced me that it was an +impudent coyote, and we continued our search. We had probably ridden an +hour through sand and cactus before one of the hunters had a wolf up and +going. + +McDougall had selected Black Sam, a cross between a deerhound and a +greyhound, as his first representative, and he was accordingly in the +slips with a magnificent-looking barzoi representing Mr. Hacke. Porter, +from Salt Lake, the slipper and an old-time hunter, had all he could do +to hold them until the word to slip was given. They went away from the +slips in great style, the barzoi getting a few feet the best of it; but +in the lead up to the wolf the cross-breed made a go-by, and, overtaking +the flying wolf, unhesitatingly seized and turned it. Before it could +straighten out for another run, the barzoi was upon it, and +unfortunately took a hind hold, which it easily broke. The cross-breed, +without having received a cut or even a pinch, lost all interest in the +proceedings, and stood around looking on as unconcerned as though there +was not a wolf within a hundred miles; and, though the wolf assumed a +combative attitude, at bay, ready to do battle, and made no effort to +avoid her canine foes, neither dog could be induced to tackle her again. +The barzoi acted as though he was willing if any assistance was afforded +by the half-breed. Neither of these dogs showed any evidence of +cowardice, in my opinion, though credited with it by representatives of +the press present. The evidences of this feeling are unmistakable, and I +have seen fear and terror too often expressed by dogs, when attacked or +run by wolves, not to recognize it when present. They did not turn a +hair, and walked about within twenty feet of the wolf with their tails +carried as gayly as though they were on exhibition at a bench show. Very +different was the action of a rancher's dog, evidently a cross between a +St. Bernard and a mastiff, that came up at this stage of the game. As +soon as he caught sight of the wolf, every hair on his back reversed, +his tail drooped between his legs, and the efforts of three strong men +could hardly have held him. This I call fear and cowardice; the actions +of the others, a lack of proper training and knowledge of how to fight. +As the wolf was a female and apparently heavy with whelp, I at the time +thought this was the cause of their queer actions; but later, when +skinning the wolf for the pelt, I found no evidence of whelp, but a +stomach full of calf's flesh. In the second course, Allan Breck, a big, +powerful Scotch deerhound, and Nipsic, a lighter female of the same +breed, were put in the slips and a male wolf put up. They readily +overhauled him. Allan, leading several lengths in the run up, promptly +took a shoulder hold and bowled over the wolf; then, as though he +considered his whole duty performed, quietly looked on, while Nipsic +kept up a running fight with the wolf, attacking him a score of times, +but was unable alone to disable or kill him. It was only after the wolf +and Nipsic were lassoed and dragged apart by horsemen that she desisted +in her crude efforts to kill the wolf. She displayed no lack of courage, +but a total lack of training and knowledge of how to fight. In the final +course two grand specimens of the barzoi were placed in the slips; one +of them, Zlooem, a magnificent animal, all power and life, who had won +the Czar's gold medal in St. Petersburg in a wolf contest, impressed me +forcibly with the idea that, if he once obtained a throat hold, it would +be all over with the wolf. On this occasion I had a most excellent +mount, a thoroughbred Kentucky race mare, and, as one of the conditions +of the match was that I alone was to be allowed to follow the hounds, I +determined to stay with them throughout the run at all hazards, and to +be in at the death. The wolf was put up in the bottom land of the Platte +River. The footing was excellent, and, as he had but a few hundred +yards' start, I was enabled to be within fifty yards of them throughout +the run and fighting. The wolf at first started off as though he had +decided to depend upon speed to save his pelt, disdaining to employ his +usual stratagem, and the hounds gained but little upon him. Finding that +but one horseman and two strange-looking animals were following him, he +slackened his pace, and in an incredibly short time Zlooem was upon even +terms with him, and, seizing by the throat, over and over they went in a +cloud of sand, from which the wolf emerged first, again on the retreat, +with both hounds after him full tilt. Within a hundred yards they again +downed him, only to be shaken off. This was repeated probably a half +dozen times, and, though both the barzois had throat and flank holds, +they were unable to "stretch him." After five minutes of fast and +furious fighting, they dashed into a bunch of frightened cattle and +became separated. Though I immediately cut the wolf out of the bunch of +cattle and he limped off in full view, the dogs were too exhausted to +follow, and their condition was truly pitiable. Zlooem staggered about +and fell headlong upon his side, unable to rise. Both were so thoroughly +exhausted from their tremendous efforts that they could not stand upon +their feet; their tongues were swollen and protruding full length, their +breath came in short and labored gasps, the whistle and rattle in their +throats was audible at some distance, while their legs trembled and were +really unable to sustain the weight of their bodies. At the expiration +of ten minutes, I signaled the slippers to come and take the dogs up; +and thus ended the bid of the Russian wolfhound for popularity in this +country. + +Upon our return to Denver we were waited upon by a ranchman who had +heard of the failure of a pair of these dogs to catch and kill wolves. +He stated that he had a leash of greyhounds that could catch and kill +gray timber wolves, and deposited $500 to bind a match to that effect. +He was very much in earnest, and I regretted that we could not raise a +purse of $500, as I should like to have seen the feat performed--my +experience being that it required from four to six to accomplish this, +and that even then they have to understand their business thoroughly. + +_Roger D. Williams._ + + + + +Game Laws + + +Laws for the preservation of wild animals are a product of civilization. +The more civilized a nation, the broader and more humane will be these +laws. + +Our ancestors of the flint age were lawless. After the fall "thorns also +and thistles" came forth, and man ceased from eating herb-bearing seed +and fruit, and turned his hand to killing and eating flesh--"even as +Nimrod, the mighty hunter before the Lord." Many great and dangerous +animals then existed, and it was a necessity to kill off the cave bear, +the cave tiger and the mastodon. The earliest of Chaldean poems +indicates the equally great fishing of those days: "Canst thou draw out +leviathan with an hook, or his tongue with a cord which thou lettest +down?" All savage nations are still ruthless and wasteful in their +destruction of animal life. An example is found on the plains, where a +thousand buffalo were driven over the walls of a cañon that a tribe +might have a feast, although the tribe might, and often did, starve +during the coming winter. + +With the slow progress of civilization, at first customs grew up, and +then laws were enacted consonant with the degree of education of the +lawmakers. In ancient Oriental nations only a few animals were protected +for the use of the rulers. Thus the elephant, the cheetah and the falcon +in the East came under royal protection. The Normans, when they were not +at war, followed the chase with ardor, and passed laws for the +protection of deer, wolves and the wild boar. The Saxons, like the +Romans, guarded their forest preserves, but left the open country free +for chase to all the people. After the Conquest the new Norman rulers +applied their own stern and selfish laws over all England. Not only was +the chase forbidden, but the bearing of arms used in the chase as well, +and the conquerors thus preserved the game for their own use, and also +kept in subjection the disarmed people. Their punishments were +barbarous, and comprised maiming and death, and the killing of a deer or +a wild boar was punished with putting out the eyes or death. No greater +penalty was inflicted for the killing of a man. + +The underlying principle maintained was that all wild game was the +property of no one, and that to which no one had title belonged to the +sovereign. So the king held all lands not apportioned, and granted +permission to his chiefs to hunt therein. He also created the right of +_free chase_, _warren_ and _free fishery_, thus authorizing a designated +person to protect game and to follow the chase on the land of others, or +protect and take fish from rivers and streams that flowed over the +properties of other men. These claims of right became numerous and so +burdensome that they were subsequently restricted by Magna Charta. The +fascination of the chase, indulged in for years, became so inwrought in +the English mind that it formed the principal recreation of the people, +shared in alike by nobles, priests and peasants, evoking a world of +romance and legend in Robin Hood tales, and a sturdy, semi-warlike +pride. The exercise formed a school of stalwart out-of-door men, whose +descendants of like taste have invaded the remotest isles of the sea, +and girdled the earth with the colonies of England. The taste made its +fair mark on English verse from the early date of Chevy Chase, when, + + To chase the deer with hawk and hound + Earl Percy took his way, + +down to this present year of grace, when Conan Doyle's archer sings: + + So we'll drink all together + To the grey goose feather, + And the land where the grey goose flew. + +The pomp and dignity of the chase, its pursuit by the highest clergy and +the sad result of want of skill by an archbishop are quaintly disclosed +in the trial of the Archbishop of Canterbury for accidentally killing a +game-keeper instead of a deer in the forest of Bramshill in the year +1621, as reported at length in Vol. II. of Cobbett's State Trials. + +The right in the crown to all wild game, thus claimed and established in +England, became part of the common law, and was inherited by the +American colonies; and thus wild game in our Republic became the +property of the people, and the duty of its care and protection fell +upon the different States of the Republic, and in the territories upon +Congress. + +It is unnecessary to enumerate the different game laws and the various +cruel judgments entered therein in the English courts, or to refer to +the many essays and orations written and delivered against the game laws +of the various European States. They met the condemnation alike of +philanthropists, statesmen and poets. Charles Kingsley wrote in 1848, on +behalf of the people, the bold and pathetic song: + + The merry brown hares came leaping + Over the crest of the hill. + +It defended the poacher lad, but lost for the writer his lawn sleeves. + +The great distinction to be ever borne in mind between the game laws of +Europe and those of America is, that the former were passed for the +protection of game for a class, while the laws of a republic are passed +for the preservation of game for the use of all the people. The former +encountered the hostility of all the people save the aristocracy; the +latter should obtain the approbation of all the people, rich and poor, +for they are passed and maintained for the good of the people at large. + +The value of the fish and game to the people of the State of Maine is +greater and brings into the State more money than its hay crop or its +potato crop. The value of a mountain stream is nothing except as it may +water people or kine. Stock and protect that river by suitable laws, and +the fishing privileges may be rented for an annual rental that will pay +all the taxes of every county through which it runs. Yet often it is +that the inhabitant of that county complains of the injustice of +preventing him from taking fish therein at his pleasure at any season of +the year. + +The earliest recorded game law is found in the twenty-second chapter of +Deuteronomy, where it is forbidden to take a bird from her nest. The +earliest law upon this subject in America that we find was the act of +the Assembly of Virginia of 1699, II. William III., wherein the killing +of deer between January and July was prohibited under a penalty of 500 +pounds of tobacco. In Maryland an act was passed on the same subject in +1730, which recites the evils of constant shooting--"Which evil +practice, if not put a stop to, may in a few years entirely destroy the +species of deer, to the great damage of the good people of this +province; be it enacted by the Right Honorable the Lord proprietary, by +and with the consent of his Lordship's Governor and the upper and lower +Houses of Assembly, that it should not be lawful that any person +(Indians in amity with us excepted), between January first and July +last, to kill any deer under the penalty of 400 pounds of tobacco." +South Carolina followed in 1769 with an act prohibiting the killing of +deer during the same period, "under a penalty of forty shillings +proclamation money." Both of these acts prohibited night hunting with +fire-light, as did also the Statutes of the Mississippi Territory. + +The earliest laws upon this subject in Kentucky were passed in 1775 by +the Legislature, appropriately holding its sessions under the greenwood +trees, and their author was Daniel Boone. + +The earliest law in the State of New York was passed in 1791 (2 Session +Laws of 1791, p. 188), and it prohibited the killing of "heath hen, +partridge, quail or woodcock" on Long Island, or "in the city and county +of New York," under penalty of twenty shillings. + +Laws upon this subject thereafter multiplied in New York, varying in +their scope and character with every Legislature. Sometimes the +prosecution was left to the county prosecutor; sometimes it was +permitted to the informer, who shared the penalty; sometimes the power +of enacting laws was reserved to the State; sometimes it was delegated +to the supervisors. In 1879, by the influence of the Society for the +Preservation of Game, a complete act was passed, entitled "An Act for +the Preservation of Moose and Wild Deer, Birds, Fish and other Game," +which for many years was vigorously enforced by that Society, and became +the model for like laws in many other States. This law made the +possession of game during the close season the offense, and not _prima +facie_ evidence of killing, and also it removed from the various local +supervisors the power of making laws upon this subject. + +These two essential features of law cannot be too strongly insisted upon +with all lawmakers. Under this statute hundreds of prosecutions were +made and convictions had in the markets of the great cities. The bidding +for game by wealthy cities is the incentive to unlawful killing, and the +closing of the markets stops the poacher's business more thoroughly than +the conviction of an occasional poacher. When the law permitted game +killed in other States during the open season to be sold in the State +of New York in the close season, there was no lack of evidence to show +that every head of game was killed elsewhere and in the open season, and +the petit jury always found in favor of the oppressed market man. When +the law was changed so that all game, wherever killed, was decreed +illegal, the defense was plead that such a law restricted commerce and +was unconstitutional; and it was not until the Society carried the case +of Royal Phelps, President of the Society for the Preservation of Game, +against Racey, through to the court of last resort, as reported in 60th +New York Reports, that this defense was decreed insufficient. That case +was followed in Illinois (97 Ill., 320), and Missouri (1st Mo. App., +15), and in other States, until it became the established law of the +land. The Supreme Court of the United States held (125 U. S., 465), that +a State cannot prohibit the importation of merchandise from another +State, but can the sale. That court also sustained the right of States +to protect fisheries and destroy illegal nets (Lawton _vs._ Steel, 152 +U. S.), and it affirmed the right of States to compel the maintenance of +fishways in dams erected in rivers (Holyoke Co. _vs._ Lyman, 82 U. S.). +The United States courts also maintained purchaser's title to marsh +lands and enjoined trespassers from shooting thereon in Chisholm _vs._ +Caines (U. S. Circuit Court of the 4th District). Thus, step by step, +the game laws of the land were sustained, held to be constitutional and +enforced. + +The forms of defense which offenders deem it righteous to make to game +prosecutions are without number, and as fraudulent as their trade is +wasteful. One instance will illustrate. The writer, as counsel for the +Society for the Protection of Game, prosecuted one Clark, a prominent +poulterer in State street in Albany, for having and offering for sale +several barrels of quail. The case was tried at Albany, Hon. Amasa J. +Parker appearing for the defense. After the plaintiff's witnesses had +proved the possession of the birds, the offering for sale as quail, and +the handling of several of them by the witnesses, the defendant +testified that these birds were not quail at all, but were English +snipe, and that their bills were pared down and the birds were thus sold +as quail, as they brought a better price, and that he frequently did so +in his trade. Probably no person in the court-room believed this +evidence, but the jury found for the defendant. + +The defense has been frequently interposed, that the birds in question +were not the prohibited birds, but were some other or foreign variety, +until it was found that it was necessary always to purchase and to +produce in court, fresh or dried, some of the game in regard to which +the suit was being tried. + +Before leaving the litigation of the courts of the State of New York, +and in order to show how early and ardently the gentlemen of the old +school followed the diversions of the chase, it is well to cite the case +of Post against Pierson, tried in 1805 before the venerable Judges +Tompkins and Livingston, and reported in 3d Cain's New York Reports. It +there appears that Mr. Post, a worthy citizen of that most traditional +hunting ground, Long Island, organized a fox-hunt. The chase went +merrily-- + + An hundred hounds bayed deep and strong, + Clattered an hundred [more or less] steeds along, + +and they started a fox and had him in view, when one Pierson, of +Hempstead, the defendant in the case, well knowing of the chase, yet +with wicked and felonious mind intercepted, shot, killed and carried +away the fox. Post brought suit for the value of the animal, and the +injury to the outraged feelings of the members of the hunt. Counsel +learned in the law declaimed, and the wise opinion of the court, citing +all the authorities from Puffendorf down, covers five printed pages, and +finally decided that, "However uncourteous or unkind the conduct of +Pierson in this instance may have been, yet this act was productive of +no injury or damage for which a legal remedy can be applied." + +Probably to correct this ruling, the Statute of 1844 was passed, which +provides that anyone who starts and pursues deer in the Counties of +Suffolk and Queens shall be deemed in possession of the same. + +A great responsibility is thrown upon the Government of the United +States to protect the large game in the different national parks. In a +few years they will contain the only remnants of the buffalo, elk, +antelope and mountain sheep. Poachers, like wolves, surround these +parks, killing only to sell the heads for trophies. Captain George S. +Anderson and Scout F. Burgess have done a good work in the Yellowstone +Park in capturing poachers, which efforts were recognized by the Boone +and Crockett Club. If authority should be given to the army to try and +punish these poachers by martial law, it would save many a herd +elsewhere, and also relieve the Government from great expense for the +transporting and trial of offenders. + +When we reflect how many and valuable races of animals in North America +have become extinct or nearly so, as the buffalo and the manatee; how +many varieties of birds that afforded us food, or brightened the autumn +sky with their migrations, have been annihilated, as have been the +prairie fowl in the Eastern States and the passenger pigeon in all our +States, the necessity of these laws appears urgent. A few suggestions +that experience has taught us in regard to these matters are worthy of +record. + +We must remember that in a republic no law is effective without public +opinion to back it. Therefore, contemporaneously with making our laws, +we should by writing and speaking educate the public mind to appreciate +and sustain them. Experience has taught that in these prosecutions the +public prosecutor is a laggard. He prefers noted criminal cases and +neglects these, which he regards as trivial offenses. Therefore the law +should authorize private prosecutors, on giving security for costs and +damages, to make search and conduct prosecutions in their own names. + +Next, it is to be remembered that a single private person will make +himself odious in the community by bringing such prosecutions, and is +often deterred by the fear of revenge. Therefore, societies should be +formed, composed of many good citizens; they should employ their own +counsel, and prosecute in the name of the society or its president. + +Next, the law should definitely fix a penalty for having in possession, +transporting or exposing for sale. This is more important than +prohibiting the killing, as it is the marketing of dead game that +incites the killing. It is the market hunter that has destroyed all +feathered life on our prairies, and the cold storage process has enabled +him to transport to other States or countries, and make his gains there. +Close the market and the killing ceases. + +Another step to success is the procuring of the conformity of the laws +in neighboring States. The laws of New York may prohibit the sale of +quail, ruffed grouse and prairie fowl, and the societies may enforce +them in New York city, and day by day see the monstrous wrong of +carloads of prairie fowl and other valuable game brought into Jersey +City, and sold to the population of that town and to the ocean vessels +sailing from its docks. Our Western prairies are denuded of their birds, +that are frozen in the close season and are afterward shipped to Europe, +and sold in the markets there at a price often less than they would +bring in New York city. + +Again, laws on these subjects should be as simple as possible, including +in the one open and close season as many kinds of game as possible, and +creating a general public understanding that the shooting season opens +at a fixed date, say October 1st, and that no shooting or possession of +game is to be allowed prior to that date, and that the close season for +all game should commence on another certain date, say February 1st. + +Lastly, a defective law, that is permanent and uniform throughout the +State, is more effective than a better and more detailed law varying in +different counties and towns, and frequently altered. In illustration +of the vagaries of lawmakers in this respect, it is to be remembered +that the law of 1879, passed by the Legislature of the State of New +York, was a complete and well-studied statute, made after much +consultation, and meeting the approval of all the societies of the +State, as well as the market men, and operated in the main +satisfactorily to all. Since that date members of the Legislature from +the different localities introduced bills making some exception or +addition to the act, to benefit their little town or locality, to +prohibit fishing in certain waters, to protect certain other animals, to +provide certain restrictions as to weapons of chase or means of fishing, +or times and seasons; or giving powers to county supervisors to +legislate in addition to the general legislation of the State. Two +hundred and fourteen such acts and ordinances have been passed since +1879, until the general law has been obscured and brought into contempt. +These acts and ordinances include, among other curiosities, the +protection of muskrats and mink, the preservation of skunks and other +vermin, the prohibition of residents of one county from fishing in +another county, and protecting parts of certain lakes or rivers in a +different manner or season from other parts. In some of the acts words +are misspelled; in one it is enacted that "_wild birds_ shall not be +killed at any time." Another act was passed defining the word "angling," +as used in the general statute, thus--"taking fish with hook and line +and by rod held in hands," leaving the troller or the happy schoolboy, +that drops his hand-line from the bridge, exposed to the dire penalties +of the law. While writing in this year of grace, eighteen hundred and +ninety-five, the Legislature has passed a law permitting the sale of +game at any time in the year, providing it is shown to have been killed +300 miles from the State. + +This most unreasonable law was procured largely through the influence of +the Chicago market men. The States lying west of Chicago have been +endeavoring to protect their game. Salutary laws have been passed +prohibiting the killing and freezing of game, and the transportation of +it outside of those territories. The markets of Chicago and the other +great cities of the West being closed to the public sale of game, the +dealers sought to open the markets of New York, and they have thus done +so by this law. The Governor was fully advised of the purpose and effect +of the law, but the powerful societies of the market men were promoting +it and the bill was approved. In a few years the conspicuous prairie +fowl will exist only in the naturalists' books. + +In olden times laws upon these subjects protected only animals which +lent pleasure to the chase, and also certain royal fish which were +deemed to belong to the king. These old laws were selfish and severe, +and were enforced with the cruelty of the age. A gentler spirit has +since dawned upon the world, and now most game laws shelter as well the +song bird as the wild boar and the stag. The true hunter derives more +pleasure in watching the natural life around him than in killing the +game that he meets. His heart feels the poetry of nature in the "wren +light rustling among the leaves and twigs," and in the train of ducks +as, + + Darkly seen against the crimson sky, + Their figure floats along. + +He stops to enjoy the guttural syllables where "Robert of Lincoln is +telling his name" in the summer meadow. At early dawn and eventide he +listens to the bugle call of the great migration in the skies and +exclaims: + + Thou hast no sorrow in thy song, + No winter in thy year. + +He feels the love that is begotten by contact with nature, and he it is +in these later days who has extended the laws to protect all birds of +meadow and woods, while in return he is rewarded by a choir of songsters +giving thanks in musical numbers, + + Better than all measures + Of delightful sound, + Better than all treasures, + That in books are found. + +_Chas. E. Whitehead._ + + + + +[Illustration: YELLOWSTONE PARK ELK.] + +Protection of the Yellowstone National Park + + +The first regular expedition to enter the region now embraced within the +limits of the National Park was the Washburn party of 1870. + +In the summer of 1871 two parties--one under Captain J. W. Barlow, U. S. +Engineers, and the other under Dr. F. V. Hayden, U. S. Geological +Survey--made pretty thorough scientific explorations of the whole area. + +As a result of the reports made by these two parties, and largely +through the influence of Dr. Hayden, the organic act of March 1, 1872, +was passed, setting aside a certain designated "tract of land as a +public park or pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the +people." It further provided that this Park should be "under the +exclusive control of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall +be, as soon as practicable, to make and publish such rules and +regulations as he may deem necessary or proper for the care and +management of the same. Such regulations shall provide for the +preservation from injury or spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, +natural curiosities or wonders within the Park. + +"He shall provide against the wanton destruction of the fish and game +found within said Park, and against their capture or destruction for the +purpose of merchandise or profit. + +"And generally shall be authorized to take all such measures as shall be +necessary or proper to fully carry out the objects or purposes of this +act." + +It will be seen that "timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities and +wonders" were, by the terms of the _law_, protected from "injury or +spoliation." The Secretary of the Interior must, by _regulation_, +"provide against the wanton destruction of fish and game," and against +their "capture for the purpose of merchandise or profit." The Park +proper includes nearly 3,600 square miles, but under the act of 1891 a +timber reserve was set aside, adding about twenty-five miles on the east +and about eight on the south, making the total area nearly 5,600 square +miles. By an order of the Secretary of the Interior, dated April 14, +1891, this addition was placed under the control of the Acting +Superintendent of the Park, "with the same rules and regulations" as in +the Park; it thus in every respect became a part of the Park itself. + +Dr. Hayden drew the Park bill from his personal observations, made in +the summer of 1871. At that time the territorial lines were not run, and +their exact location was not known. He consequently chose for his +initial points the natural features of the ground, and made his lines +meridians and parallels of latitude. His selections seem almost a work +of inspiration. The north line takes in the low slopes on the north of +Mt. Everts and the valley of the East Fork of the Yellowstone, where the +elk, deer, antelope and mountain sheep winter by thousands; it leaves +outside every foot of land adapted to agriculture; also--and this is +more important than all--it passes over the rugged and inaccessible +summits of the snowy range, where the hardiest vandal dare not put his +shack. + +The east line might have been placed where the timber reserve line now +runs without much damage to material interests; but in that case the +owners of prospect holes about Cooke City would have long since secured +segregation. As the line runs, it is secured by the impassable +Absarokas--the summer home of large herds of mountain sheep--and it +includes not a foot of land of a dime's value to mortal man. Both south +and west lines are protected by mountain heights, and they exclude every +foot of land of any value for agriculture, or even for the grazing of +domestic cattle. + +The experiment was once made of wintering a herd of cattle in the lowest +part of the Park--the Falls River meadows, in the extreme southwest +corner--and, I believe, not a hoof survived. Their bones by the hundreds +now whiten the fair valley. + +Following the act of dedication, Mr. N. P. Langford was on May 10, 1872, +appointed superintendent, without salary. He was directed to "apply any +money which may be received from leases to carrying out the object of +the act." He never lived in the Park, never drew a salary, and never, +except by reports and recommendations, did anything for its protection. +In his first report he suggests that "wild game of all kinds be +protected by law," that trapping be prohibited, and that the timber be +protected from the axman and from fires. Unfortunately I am unable to +possess myself of any of his subsequent reports; but I know that he +toiled earnestly and without pay--and to no results. + +On April 18, 1877, Mr. P. W. Norris was appointed to succeed him. He +also served for love until July 5, 1878, when appropriations began, and +something was done for "Park protection." In his report for 1879 he +speaks of having stopped the killing of bison, and says that other game, +although "grown shy by the usually harmless fusillade of tourists," was +in "abundance for our largest parties." He also protected the wonders by +breaking them off with ax and crowbar, and shipping them by the carload +to Washington and elsewhere. His men did their best to protect the +forests from fires, and with only fair success. By this report (1879) it +seems that "no white men have ever spent an entire winter at the Mammoth +Hot Springs"; he strongly recommended game protection, but not the +prohibition of hunting. There was then but a single game superintendent, +and he without authority to act. As at present, the main trouble was +with the "Clark's Fork" people. The regulations permitted hunting for +"recreation" or "for food," which would always be made to cover the +object of any captured poacher. + +Major Norris was doubtless a valuable man for the place and the time; +but, as he expressed it in a manifesto dated July 1, 1881, and headed +"Mountain Comrades," "The construction of roads and bridle paths will be +our main object," to which he added the work of "explorations and +research." His entire force lived upon game, which was hunted only in +season, and preserved, or jerked, for a supply for the remainder of the +year. He was succeeded by Mr. P. H. Conger on February 2, 1882, but Mr. +Conger did not arrive until May 22 following, when he seems to have +fallen full upon the trials and the tribulations that have beset his +successors. He reported the necessity for protecting the wonders and the +game, but seems to have accomplished nothing in either direction. His +reports are largely made up of lists of the distinguished visitors by +whose hand-shake he was anointed. He was relieved in August, 1884, by +Mr. R. E. Carpenter, who was removed in May, 1885, without +accomplishing anything. Mr. David W. Wear was next in succession, and +remained until legislated out of office in August, 1886. Nothing of +value seems to have been done in these two administrations. In the +sundry civil appropriation bill for 1886-87 the item for the protection +and improvement of the Park was omitted. By the act of March 3, 1883, +the Secretary of War was authorized, on request from the Secretary of +the Interior, to detail part of the army for duty in the Park, the +commander of the troops to be the acting superintendent. As there was no +money appropriated to pay the old officers, they, of course, had +business elsewhere. Captain Moses Harris, First Cavalry, was the first +detailed under the new regime. He arrived there on August 17, 1886, and +assumed control on the 20th. From this time on things assumed a +different aspect. He had the assistance of a disciplined troop of +cavalry, and he used it with energy and discretion. It very soon became +unsafe to trespass in the Park, winter or summer, and load upon load of +confiscated property testified to the number of his captures. His +reports show the heroic efforts made to prevent and extinguish fires, to +prevent the defacement of the geysers and other formations, and to +protect the game. In his report for 1887 he pays his respects to our +enemies from "the northern and eastern borders"--the same hand that has +continued to depredate until this day. He speaks of the "immense herds +of elk that have passed the winter along the traveled road from Gardiner +to Cooke City," and he goes on to say that "but little efficient +protection can be afforded to this species of game except upon the +Yellowstone and its tributaries." He remained in charge until June 1, +1889, when he transferred his duties to Captain F. A. Boutelle, and in +the three years of his rule he inaugurated and put in motion most of the +protective measures now in use. + +Captain Boutelle, in succession to Captain Harris, continued his +methods, and protection prospered. Meantime, in 1889, an additional +troop of cavalry was detailed for duty in the Park in the summer, and +had station at the Lower Geyser Basin. The principal use of this troop +was in protecting the formations and the forests, but the work was well +done and the foundation was laid for future efficiency. + +I came to the Park in February, 1891, in succession to Captain Boutelle. +On his departure there was only one man left here familiar with the +Park and its needs, and that was Ed. Wilson, the scout. He had been a +trapper himself, and was thoroughly familiar with every species of game +and its haunts and habits. He was brave as Cæsar, but feared the +mysterious and unseen. He preferred to operate alone by night and in +storms; he knew every foot of the Park, and knew it better than any +other man has yet known it; he knew its enemies and the practical +direction of their enmity. He came to me one morning and reported that a +man named Van Dyck was trapping beaver near Soda Butte; that he spent +his days on the highest points in the neighborhood, and with a glass +scanned every approach; and that the only way to get him was to go +alone, by night, and approach the position from the rear, over Specimen +Mountain. To this I readily assented, and at 9 that night, in as bad a +storm as I ever saw, Wilson started out for the forty-mile trip. He +reached a high point near the one occupied by Van Dyck, saw him visit +his traps in the twilight and return to his camp, where at daybreak the +next morning Wilson came upon him while sleeping, photographed him with +his own kodak, and then awakened him and brought him to the post. But, +unfortunately for the cause of Park protection, Wilson disappeared in +July of that year, and his remains were found a mile from headquarters +in the June following. That left me unsupported by anyone who knew the +place and its foes; I was fortunate, however, in having as his successor +Felix Burgess, who for more than three years has ably, bravely and +intelligently performed the perilous and thankless duties of the +position. + +But before going on with a description of my own work in the Park, I +will say a few words of my predecessors. In looking over the list, I +think I can, without disparagement of the rest, single out three for +especial mention. + +Langford was an explorer and pioneer; by his writings he made the Park +known to this country and to the whole world. He was an enthusiast and +his enthusiasm was contagious. Protection was not yet needed, but a +knowledge of the place was, and to this he largely contributed. He was +the proper man and he came at the proper time. + +Next came Major Norris. To him protection was a minor or unconsidered +subject. His "usually harmless fusillade of tourists" reminds one of +Paddy's remark to his master: "Did I hit the deer, Pat?" "No, my lord, +but you made him l'ave the place." For his time he was exactly suited; +he penetrated every remote nook and corner; built roads, blazed trails, +and in general made accessible all the wonders written of and described +by Mr. Langford. Protection was not yet due, but it was on the road and +close at hand. + +For this part of the work Major Harris was an ideal selection, and he +came none too soon. Austere, correct, unyielding, he was a terror to +evil doers. And, after all, is there anything more disagreeable than a +man who is always right? I believe Major Harris was always _sure_ he was +right before he acted, and then no fear of consequences deterred him. He +once arrested a man for defacing the formations at the Upper Basin. The +man confessed that he had done it, but that it was a small offense, and +that if put out of the Park for it he would publish the Major in all the +Montana papers. He was put out, and the Major was vilified in a manner +with which I am personally very familiar. The next year this same man +was sent to the penitentiary for one year for "holding up" one of the +Park coaches in the Gardiner Cañon. In 1891 I derived great assistance +in the protection of the wonders and the forests from Captain Edwards, +who, with his troop, had served in the Park before. Unfortunately he had +to leave in the autumn, and I was again left alone with my ignorance and +my good intentions. + +In May, 1892, Troop D of the Sixth Cavalry was sent to my assistance. +Captain Scott was in command, and he has remained until the present +time. Hard as iron, tireless and fearless, he has been an invaluable +assistant in all that pertains to Park protection. + +In protecting the beauties and wonders of the Park from vandalism, the +main things to be contended against were the propensities of women to +gather "specimens," and of men to advertise their folly by writing their +names on everything beautiful within their reach. Small squads of +soldiers were put on guard at each of the geyser basins, and at other +points where protection was needful, with orders to arrest and threaten +with expulsion anyone found breaking off or gathering specimens. Only a +few examples were needed to materially diminish this evil. Of course, +it still continued in small degree, but those who indulged in it had to +be at great pains to conceal their operations, and this of itself +greatly reduced the destruction. I personally engaged in a long +controversy with a reverend despoiler, whom I detected in the act of +breaking off a specimen. A large part of his defense was that, as I had +on no uniform, he did not know it was necessary to be watchful and +careful in my presence. + +The names of the vain glared at one from every bit of formation, and +from every place where the ingenuity of vanity could place them. +Primarily I ordered that every man found writing his name on the +formations should be sent back and made to erase it. I once sent a man +from the Mammoth Springs and once a man from the Cañon to the Upper +Basin to scrub his autograph from the rocks; and one morning a callow +youth from the West was aroused at 6:30 A. M. at the Fountain Hotel and +taken, with brush and soap, to the Fountain Geyser, there to obliterate +the supposed imperishable monument of his folly. His parents, who were +present, were delighted with the judgment awarded him, and his fellow +tourists by their taunts and gibes covered him with confusion as with a +garment. But, notwithstanding the sharpest watch and greatest care, new +names were constantly being added, and they could not easily be detected +from the old ones on account of the number of names already there. So, +in the early part of the season of 1892, with hammer and chisel, where +necessary, the old names were erased and we started even with the world, +and the geyser basins are practically free from this disfigurement +to-day. The remedy was heroic and successful, as such remedies usually +are. + +The protection of the forests--perhaps of more material importance than +any other form of Park protection--became a subject of study, care and +attention. As a rule, fires originated in one of three ways: by +carelessly left camp fires, by lightning, or by the rubbing together of +two trees swayed by the wind. There is no way of preventing the last two +forms of ignition; the only thing to be done is to keep a ceaseless +watch, and, so far as practicable, prevent the fire from spreading. The +extensive areas burned over in days evidently prior to the advent of +white men make it very apparent that these two agencies of destruction +were then at work, as it is certain they have been since. Camping +parties are many of them from cities, and they know little, and care +less, about the devastation a forest fire may create. They leave a small +and apparently harmless bunch of coals where their camp fire was; after +they have passed on, a wind springs up, fans the embers into flame, the +dry pine needles are kindled, and at once the forest is ablaze, and no +power on earth can put it out. When once the flame reaches the tree +tops, if the wind be strong, a man on horseback can scarce escape before +it. As the wind ceases the fire quiets down, only to spring up again +next day on the appearance of the afternoon breeze. The only time to +fight the fire is when the wind has gone down and the flames have +ceased. Then water poured on smouldering logs, earth thrown on +unextinguished stumps, and the clearing of a path before the line of +fire in the carpet of pine needles are the effective means of +extinguishment. After a fire is once got under control it is no unusual +thing for it to reappear 500 yards from any of its previous lines, +carried there as a spark through the air, and dropped in the resinous +tinder ever ready to receive and spread it. + +In the four seasons during which I have been in the Park but one fire of +any magnitude has occurred. That broke out along the main road, about a +mile north of Norris, in July, 1893. As it did not break out near a +camping place, its origin could not be traced to camp fires; nor could +it be charged to lightning or rubbing of trees. It was evidently started +by a match or other fire carelessly dropped by a member of the road +crew, then working near there, or possibly by a cigar stump thrown from +a stage by a tourist. It was at once reported to me by telegraph. The +troop was at drill, and in less than twenty minutes a dozen men, under +charge of a sergeant, were on their way, with shovels, axes and buckets, +to the scene of the trouble. An hour later the report was that it was +beyond control. I then sent out the balance of the troop, under +Lieutenant Vance, and ordered Captain Scott down from the Lower Basin +with all available men of his troop. Thus the whole of the two troops +were at the scene, and they remained there toiling and fighting night +and day for twenty days, when a providential rain put an end to their +labors. The area burned over included some exceptionally fine timber, +was in extreme length nearly six miles, and in breadth from a few feet +in some places to near a mile in others. + +A fire in pine woods may be successfully fought so long as it is kept +confined to the ground, but once it gets a start in the tree tops no +power on earth can cope with it; no effort is of the slightest avail. +Campers who leave their fires unextinguished often make the excuse that +they did not believe any damage could result, as the coals were nearly +dead. Although such might be the case at the hour of their leaving, in +the still air of morning, the afternoon wind is quite capable of blowing +them into dangerous and destructive life. My rule has been to insist on +the rigorous enforcement of the regulation requiring expulsion from the +Park in such cases. One or two expulsions each year serve as healthy +warnings, and these, backed by a system of numerous and vigilant +patrols, have brought about the particularly good results of which we +can boast. In 1892 a fire on Moose Creek was sighted from a point near +the Lake, and reported to me that night by wire from the Lake Hotel. +Before the next evening, Captain Scott was on the spot with his troop, +and the fire was soon under control. In a few hours it would have been +in the heavy timber on the shore of Shoshone Lake, and there is no limit +to the damage it might have wrought. + +As a last heading of my subject I shall touch on the protection of the +game. This was never seriously attempted until Major Harris came to the +Park, in 1886; but he attacked it with an earnestness and a fearlessness +that has left a lasting impress. It is not probable that the Park is the +natural home of bison, elk or deer, yet the last remnant of the first +and great numbers of the last two are found here. The high altitude, +great cold and extreme depth of snow make it a forbidding habitat for +the ruminants. They remain here simply because they are protected. +Protection was given by a system of scouting extended over the best game +ranges, and throughout the season of probable game destruction. A good +many captures were made; the poachers were turned loose and their +property confiscated; this was all the law allowed. The depredating +element of the community soon came to care very little for this menace +to their business, for they entered the Park with an equipment that +was hardly worth packing in to the post, and, if taken from them, +occasioned but small loss. + +[Illustration: A HUNTING DAY.] + +The accumulation of this sort of property had become great, and, as I +had no proper storage room for it, I began my work by making a bonfire +of it. A first requisite to successful work was to become acquainted +with the names, the haunts and the habits of those whom it was necessary +to watch or to capture. Ed. Wilson was thoroughly familiar with all +this, and many is the lesson I patiently took from him. He described to +me the leaders among the poachers from the several regions--Cooke, +Henry's Lake, Jackson's Lake and Gardiner. To begin with the Cooke City +parties, he named to me three as particularly active and dangerous: +these were Van Dyck, Pendleton and Howell. Van Dyck, he told me, was at +that time trapping beaver near Soda Butte, but he had not been able to +definitely locate him. He made two trips there through cold and storm, +but to no purpose. Finally, on his third expedition, he caught him, as +already stated, sleeping in his bed. His property was destroyed, and he +was held in the guard house awaiting the instructions of the Secretary +of the Interior, which for some reason were very slow in coming. At last +he was released, and ordered never again to cross the Park boundary +without permission. + +The next year Pendleton made a trip in the Park in early May, and got +out with two young bison calves, which he was carrying on pack animals +in beer boxes. Of course, they died before he got them to a place where +he could raise them in safety, and he soon started back to renew his +evil work. He was arrested and confined, and his case took exactly the +same course as Van Dyck's had taken. + +The last of the trio was Ed. Howell. Knowing of him and his habits, I +kept him as well under watch as possible. During a trip I made to the +east side of the Park in October, 1893, I saw many old signs of bison in +several localities. Howell having disappeared from public view for a +month or two, I sent Burgess out in January, 1894, with orders to +carefully scout this country. I indicated to him exactly where I +expected him to find signs of the marauder. He encountered very severe +weather, and was not able to make a full tour of the places indicated; +but he did report having found, in the exact locality I had designated +to him, tracks of a man on _skis_ drawing a toboggan. These tracks were +old and could not be followed, but they formed a valuable clue. I next +sent to the Soda Butte station and had a thorough search made near that +place. It was found that the same tracks had passed over the hill behind +the station, going toward Cooke. Careful inquiry developed the fact that +Howell had come in for provisions with his equipment, but that he had +not brought any trophies with him. Calculating the time when he should +be due again in the bison country, I gave Burgess an order to repeat his +trip there, and stay until he brought back results. He left the Lake +Hotel in a severe storm on March 11th, and camped the night of the 12th +where he had seen the tracks on his previous visit. Next morning, when +scarcely out of camp, he found a _cache_ of six bison scalps suspended +in a tree. The _ski_ tracks near by were old, and he was not able to +follow them. He possessed himself of the spoils and started down +Astringent Creek toward Pelican. When near the latter stream, he found a +lodge, evidently occupied at the time, and the tracks near it, fresh and +distinct, pointing to the southward. Soon he heard shots, and far off +in the distance he espied the culprit in the act of killing more of the +game. The problem then arose as to how he was to make the capture. With +him was only a single soldier, and the two had for arms only a .38 +caliber revolver. It was certain that this was Howell, and it was known +that he was a desperate character. + +In giving Burgess his orders, I had told him that I did not send him to +his death--that I did not want him to take risks or serious chances; I +impressed upon him the fact that, as far as Howell was concerned, even +if times were hard, the wages of sin had not been reduced. All this he +knew well, but there was a desperate criminal armed with a rifle; as for +himself, he might as well have been unarmed. However, fortune favored +him, and soon Howell became so occupied in removing the scalp from one +of his bison that Burgess, by a swift and silent run, approached within +four or five yards of him undiscovered. It would have been easy enough +to kill him then, but it was too much like cold-blooded murder to do so +at that range; at 200 or 300 yards it would have seemed entirely +different. Howell's rifle was leaning against a buffalo's carcass a few +yards from him. He made a step toward it, when Burgess told him to stop +or he would shoot. Howell then turned back and said, "All right, but you +would never have got me if I had seen you sooner." He was found +surrounded by the bodies of seven bison freshly killed, and, to +illustrate more fully the wanton nature of the man, of the eight scalps +brought in to the post, six were cows and one of the others was a +yearling calf. + +His case went through the same course as the others, and finally toward +the last of April he was turned loose, with orders to quit the Park and +never return. He, however, is cast in a different mold from some of the +previous captures, and some time in July he reappeared with the most +brazen and shameless effrontery. He was reincarcerated, tried, and +sentenced for disobedience of the order of expulsion. His sentence was +thirty days in jail and fifty dollars fine, and this he now has under +appeal. Insufficient as is Howell's punishment, his crime has been of +more service to the Park than any other event in its history; it created +the greatest interest throughout the country, and led to the passage of +the Park Protection Act, which was signed by the President on May 7th. +A strange coincidence in the cases of Van Dyck and Howell is that both +were accompanied by their faithful watchdogs, and neither dog gave a +sign of the approach of the enemy, and both men swore vengeance on their +faithless protectors. + +The preservation of elk, deer, antelope and the carnivora is assured. +Their numbers elsewhere, their wide distribution within the Park, their +relatively small commercial value, added to the danger attendant on +killing them within the Park, is a sufficient protection. Moose and +mountain sheep will probably increase for similar reasons, although they +are less generally distributed and are of greater value to head hunters. +With the bison it is different. They have entirely disappeared from all +other parts of the country, and they are of sufficient money value to +tempt the cupidity of the hunters and trappers who surround the Park on +all sides. It is told that a fine bison head has been sold, delivered in +London, for £200--nearly $1,000 in our money. A taxidermist would +probably be willing to pay $200 to $500 for such a scalp. Many a hardy +frontiersman, who has no sentiment for their preservation and no +respect for the law, will take his chances of capture for such a sum. + +Another animal that is difficult of preservation is the beaver; the +trouble in this case is entirely due to the ease with which traps may be +set in places where it is impossible to find them, and the ease with +which the pelts may be packed and carried out. Within the last four +years beaver have increased enormously, so I feel justified in saying +that their preservation is so far successful. + +For the general protection of the Park there are stationed within its +lines two troops of cavalry. They are both kept at the Mammoth Hot +Springs for eight months of the year, and one of them is sent to the +Lower Geyser Basin during the four months of the tourist season. Small +outposts are kept at Riverside on the west, Snake River on the south, +Soda Butte on the northeast, and Norris near the center. Besides these a +winter station has been placed in the Hayden Valley, and summer stations +are kept at the Upper Basin, Thumb, Lake and Cañon. Between these a +constant stream of patrols is kept up, so that no depredator can do very +much damage without detection. There is allowed but one civilian scout, +who is overworked and underpaid. With all this enormous territory to +guard, with all that is beautiful and valuable to protect, with the last +of the bison to preserve, it would seem that this rich Government should +be able to expend more than a paltry $900 per year for scouts, and more +than $500 (which it receives for rentals) for the other needs of the +Park. + +There are very few who appreciate the amount of work done here by the +soldiers in summer and in winter, in cold and in storms, on foot, on +horseback and on snowshoes--and all without murmur or word of complaint. +Never before was it so well placed before the public as it was by Mr. +Hough in his _Forest and Stream_ articles summer before last. Should +Congress be stirred to make a more liberal appropriation for the purpose +of carrying out the provisions of the act of May 7th, to him, more than +to any other man, will the credit be due. + +_Geo. S. Anderson._ + + + + +The Yellowstone National Park Protection Act + + +On May 7, 1894, President Cleveland approved an Act "to protect the +birds and animals in Yellowstone National Park, and to punish crimes in +said Park, and for other purposes." + +This law, as finally enacted, owed much to the efforts and labor of +members of the Boone and Crockett Club, who for many years had +persistently struggled to induce Congress to pass such necessary +legislation. The final triumph is a matter of congratulation to every +sportsman interested in the protection of game, and fulfills one of the +great objects sought to be attained by the foundation of the Club. While +the statute, in many of its details, could readily be improved, it is +still, in its general features, sufficient to serve the purposes of its +enactment. To those not conversant with the subject, the statement may +seem astonishing, that from the establishment of the Park in 1872 to the +passage of the Act in 1894 no law protecting either the Park, the +animals or the visitors was operative within the Yellowstone Park--a +region containing about 3,500 square miles, and larger than the States +of Delaware and Rhode Island. This condition of affairs was frequently +brought to the notice of the National Legislature, and in 1887 their +attention was called to it by a startling episode. A member of Congress, +Mr. Lacey, of Iowa, was a passenger in a stage which was "held up" in +the Park and robbed. The highwaymen were afterward apprehended, but +escaped the punishment suited to their crime because of the great doubt +existing as to whether any law was applicable. As to game offenses, +regulations were powerless for prevention in the absence of any +penalties by law to enforce them. + +The explanation of this anomalous situation is to be sought in the +circumstances under which the Park had been set apart. The eminent +scientists, who interested themselves in this important object, were +surrounded with difficulties. The vastness of the tract proposed to be +included, the question of expense, the selfish interests opposing the +measure, were obstacles not easy to overcome. Congress was told, "Give +us the Park; nothing more is needed than to reserve the land from public +sale or settlement." Doubtless the remoteness and isolation of the +region might have been thought, at the time, sufficient to insure +protection. But it was the wonderful scenery and extraordinary objects +of interest in the Park which were then thought of; the forests and the +game did not enter much into the consideration of the founders. And so +Congress passed the Act of 1872, merely defining the limits of the Park +and committing it to the keeping of the Department of the Interior, +which was empowered to make rules and regulations for its control. + +A great work was accomplished when Congress was persuaded to forever +dedicate this marvelous region as a National Park, for the benefit of +the entire country; and it was hoped and expected that Congress would, +in time, supplement the organizing Act by the needful additional +legislation. But this was not to be had for many years to come. For +some time after the year 1872, the reservation was occasionally visited +by a few adventurous spirits or Government parties on exploring +expeditions. During that period it became the refuge of the large game +which had gradually receded from the lower country before the advance of +settlement and railroads. The abundance of game astonished all who +beheld it. Bears, deer, elk, sheep, moose, antelope, buffalo, wolverines +and many other kinds of wild beasts were collected within an area which +afforded peculiar advantages to each and all. Nowhere else could such a +gathering of game be found in one locality. It should be remembered that +those who visited the Park in the early days we have mentioned confined +their investigations to a limited portion of it. The great winter ranges +and breeding grounds were almost unknown. During this period, game +killing was so slight and the supply so great that restrictions, by +those exercising a very uncertain authority in the reservation, were +hardly pretended to be enforced. + +But from about the year 1878 the depredations on the game of the Park +attained alarming proportions. The number of visitors had largely +increased. The skin hunter and the record hunter--twin brothers in +iniquity--appeared on the scene, and their number grew from year to +year. It was then that regulations and prohibitions were promulgated +from the Department of the Interior, but they were known to contain only +vain threats, which could be defied with impunity. And so the slaughter +continued, and likewise other depredations. Learned associations, +sportsmen's associations, visitors of all lands, showered petitions upon +Congress to pass some protective law. All that Congress did, however, +was in 1883 to confer authority for the use of troops in the Park. This +was something, and the effect of their presence was very beneficial, and +insured the only protection the Park had until the present time. +Congress seemed affected with an apathy which no appeals could change. +The result was non-action. + +Some Congressmen thought they were justified in declining to take any +interest in the matter, because few, if any, of their constituents had +ever visited the Park. Others thought that it should be a Wyoming or +Montana affair, and should be turned over to one or the other of those +then territories. A few seemed to labor under the impression that the +Park was nothing but a private pleasure ground, resorted to by the +wealthy class, and that it was no part of the Constitutional functions +of a Republican Government to afford security to wild animals, or to +incur any expense therefor. These narrow views were not shared by most +of the principal men in Congress; among these we had many staunch +friends, including especially several who held seats in the Senate. +Chief among them was Senator Vest, of Missouri, who at all times was +found ready to do everything in his power to promote the welfare of the +Park. Senator Manderson, of Nebraska, and many others were quite as +willing. It was largely due to the gentlemen we have named that the +Senate, as a body, was imbued with their views, and on all occasions +recognized the important national objects to be attained by the Park, +not only as a great game preserve, but also as a great forest +reservation of the highest economic importance. + +With the assistance of some of the present members of the Boone and +Crockett Club, a bill was framed which afforded in its provisions ample +protection to the Park, while it added largely to its area on the south +and on the east, embracing the great breeding grounds of the elk. This +bill was introduced by Senator Vest. But new difficulties now arose, +more serious than any hitherto encountered. By the completion of the +Northern Pacific Railroad a large influx of travel set in toward the +Park. It was now thought money was to be made there. Railroads through +it were talked about. Mines, situated near its northern border, were +said to contain untold wealth, needing only a railroad for their +development. A mining camp, called Cooke City, was started, and it was +urged that a railroad could reach it only by going through the Park. +Corporate influences made themselves felt. The bill introduced by +Senator Vest again and again, in session after session, passed the +Senate. The promoters of a railroad through the Park thought they saw +their opportunity. Afraid to launch their scheme of spoliation before +Congress as an independent measure, they sought to attach it as a rider +to the Park bill. They reasoned that those who desired the passage of +that bill regarded it as so important that they would be willing to +consent to its carrying a railroad rather than see all legislation on +the subject dropped or defeated. The plan was well conceived, but failed +of execution. The friends of the bill recognized that it was wiser to +leave the Park unprotected than to consent to what would be its +destruction. They recognized that, once railroads were allowed within +the Park, it would be a reservation only in name, and that before long +the forests and the game would both disappear. They therefore refused +the bait held out to them by the railroad promoters, who thereafter +always blocked the passage of the Park bill. In return they were always +defeated in their own scheme. The House Committee having the protection +bill in charge never failed to burden it with the railroad right of way +whenever it came to them, blandly ignoring the evident fact that a +railroad was not an appropriate nor a relevant feature to a law for the +protection of the Park. And so it happened that the bill which had been +the child of affection became an object of dread, and was denounced as +bitterly as it had before been advocated by its original friends. It was +thought better to have it die on the calendar than to take the risk of +its adoption by the House of Representatives with the obnoxious +amendment incorporated by the committee. + +Apart from that amendment, it was feared the bill would not only +encounter an opposition instigated by pecuniary interests, but might +itself fail to call to its support any counteracting influence. Those +who opposed the railroad, and notably the members of the Boone and +Crockett Club, who invariably appeared before the Public Lands Committee +to argue against it, were at the very least stigmatized as +"sentimentalists," who impeded material progress--as busybodies, who, +needing nothing themselves, interfered to prevent other people from +obtaining what was necessary and beneficial to commerce. With practical +legislators such animadversions are frequently not lacking in force, for +nothing more incurs their contempt than a measure which has not what +they call a _practical object_, by which they mean a _moneyed object_. +While throughout the country there was considerable general interest +taken in the preservation of the Park, such influence was not +sufficiently concentrated to make itself felt by Congress. The Park was +everybody's affair, and in the House of Representatives no one could be +found to take any special interest in it. And so the fight went on from +year to year. In Congress after Congress the bill was passed in the +Senate, and emerged from the House Committee on Public Lands weighted +down by the burden of the railroad. Secretary after Secretary of the +Interior protested against this feature of the bill, and so did every +officer of the Government who had any part in the administration or +exploration of the Park. But their protests were without effect on the +committee, which in those days seemed to regard the railroad as the most +important feature of the bill. + +It was clearly shown that the railroad would not only be most harmful to +the Park, but could serve no useful purpose; for it was quite possible +for a railroad to reach the mines without touching the Park, whereas the +projected route cut through the Park for a distance of some fifty miles. +The public press throughout the country was almost unanimous in +denouncing the threatened invasion of the reservation. But the railroad +in interest had a strong lobby at work, and many of the inhabitants in +the territories and States nearest the Park showed the most selfish +indifference to its preservation, and a greedy desire to plunder it. The +railroad lobbyists were very active. They saw the necessity of trying to +avoid openly outraging public opinion. Accordingly they changed the +bill, so that, instead of conferring a right of way through the Park, it +segregated and threw out of the reservation that portion through which +the railroad was to go. This was supposed to be a concession to public +sentiment; but it must have been thought that the public were very +easily deceived, for there was really no concession at all, save to the +railroad interests. Instead of a _right of way_ through a portion of the +Park, they now asked, and were offered by the committee, the land +itself. The Committee of the House proposed that this land should be +thrown out of the Park, and any and all railroads be allowed to scramble +for it. The area thus doomed is situated north of the Yellowstone River, +and constitutes one of the most attractive portions of the Park. It +includes the only great winter range of the elk. In the winter there can +be seen there some 5,000 animals, and no one who has traveled over this +region in summer has failed to observe the enormous number of shed +horns, showing how extensively the range is resorted to by this noble +animal. Here too can be found a large band of antelope at all times, +numbering about 500, and a smaller, but considerable, band of mountain +sheep. + +The friends of the Park succeeded in stopping the proposed railroad +legislation, but they could accomplish nothing else in Congress. They +had more success with another branch of the Government. There was a +statute authorizing the President to set apart any part of the public +domain as a forest reservation. Taking advantage of this, certain +members of the Boone and Crockett Club saw an opportunity of +substantially obtaining the enlargement of the Park which they had been +vainly endeavoring to obtain from Congress. They laid the matter before +General Noble, then Secretary of the Interior. He recommended to +President Harrison that the tract in question should be constituted a +forest reserve. This was done. In 1891 the President issued a +proclamation, establishing the Yellowstone Park Forest Reserve. It +embraced some 1,800 square miles, abutting on the east and south +boundaries of the Park. The Secretary afterward had the same regulations +extended to the Reserve as had been put in operation in the Park. This +important action was followed by further proclamations, instituting +other forest reservations in different sections of the country. The +Executive and its representative, the Department of the Interior, have +at all times been most sympathetic and helpful in the movement for +forest and game preservation. They have sternly resisted all assaults +upon the Park. + +The organization of the Boone and Crockett Club had been a great step +toward Park protection. Its membership included those who had shown most +interest in obtaining legislation. One of the main objects of the +society was the preservation of the game and the forests. It brought +together a body of men whose motives were entirely disinterested, and +who were able to make their influence felt. To their efforts must be +largely attributed the success which was ultimately attained. But that +success might have been indefinitely deferred had not Congress been +awakened to its duty by an event as shocking as it was unlooked for. + +For years one of the cherished objects of the Park had been the +preservation of perhaps the only surviving band of buffalo. It had +sought refuge in the mountains. It was known to be on the increase and +it was supposed that it would remain unmolested. Its number had been +estimated as high as 500. Its habitat was a wild and rugged country, +affording a seemingly secure asylum. For a long time these buffalo +remained comparatively safe. In the summer it would have been of no use +to slaughter them for their heads and hides. In the winter the snow was +so deep and their haunts so remote as to render it well nigh impossible +to pack heads or hides out to a market. But a desperate man was found to +take desperate chances. The trouble came to the Park from the mining +camp of Cooke. A notorious poacher named Howell made it his +headquarters. Its proximity to the northeast boundary of the Park made +it a convenient point from which to conduct his raids and to which he +might convey his booty. If he killed even a single buffalo, and safely +packed out of the Park its head or hide, he was sure of realizing a +large sum. If he was captured while making the attempt, he knew he was +safe from punishment, and that there was no penalty, even if there was +an offense. A less lawless man might have indulged a flexible conscience +with the idea that, as there was no punishment, there was no crime. A +similar view of ethics had been indulged in by a prominent member of the +gospel, who had killed game in the Park, and sought extenuation on the +ground that he had not violated any law. But Howell was not a man who +sought to justify his actions; it was sufficient for him that he +incurred no risk. The time he selected for his deed of destruction he +thought the most propitious for covering up his tracks. His operations +were conducted in the most tempestuous weather in that most tempestuous +month, March, in the year 1894. The snow then was deepest, and Howell +felt there would be little chance of interference by scouting or other +parties. Eluding the guard stationed in the northern portion of the +Park, on stormy nights, he stole into the Park and built a lodge in the +locality where the buffalo wintered. In it he stored his supplies, which +he had conveyed on a toboggan. He traveled on _skis_, the Norwegian +snowshoes, ten feet long, which are generally used in the Northwestern +country. This enabled him to traverse the roughest mountain range with +ease and great rapidity, even in the deepest snow. Once established, the +killing was an easy matter. He had only to find the buffalo where the +snow was deep. The ponderous, unwieldy animals had small chance of +escape from his pursuit. His quarry was soon located, and he needed no +assistance to make a surround; for, while the frightened, confused +beasts were plunging in the snow, in a vain attempt to extricate +themselves, the butcher glided swiftly around them on his snowshoes, +approaching as close as he chose. With his rapid-firing gun he +slaughtered them as easily as if they had been cattle in a corral. How +many he killed will never be known. The remains of many of his victims +will never be found. + +[Illustration: IN YELLOWSTONE PARK SNOWS.] + +But while the ruffian was busiest in his bloody work, a man was speeding +over the snow toward him from the south. He too was on _skis_. He too +was a mountain man, who thought as little of the obstacles before him as +Howell did. But the object of his trip was not the buffalo, but Howell. +It was human game he was pursuing. Howell had not covered up his tracks +as well as he thought. The trailer had struck a trail which he never +left till it brought him to the object of his pursuit. This man was +Burgess, the Yellowstone Park scout. He had learned of Howell's presence +in the Park, and was sent out, with the intention of apprehending him, +by the energetic superintendent, Captain Anderson. He proceeded on his +course as swiftly as a howling wind would permit, when he was surprised +by seeing suspended from some trees six buffalo scalps. He now felt that +he was in close vicinity to the man he was hunting, and that his +business had become a serious one. He knew the man who had done that +deed was prepared to resist and commit a greater crime. But this did not +deter him and he again took the trail. He had proceeded only a short +distance when he heard six shots. Hastening up a hill, he saw Howell +engaged in butchering five buffalo, the victims of the six shots. +Howell's gun was resting on the body of one of the slain animals, a few +feet away from where he was engaged in removing a scalp from another of +the bison. So occupied was he in his work that he did not perceive the +scout, who had emerged in plain view, and who silently glided to the +weapon, and, securing it, had Howell at his mercy. The demand to throw +up his hands was the first intimation Howell had that he was not alone +in the buffalo country. It must have been difficult for the scout at +that moment not to forget that ours is a Government of law, and to +refrain from making as summary an end of Howell as Howell had made of +the buffalo. + +The poacher accepted his capture with equanimity, casually remarking +that if he had seen Burgess first he never would have been captured. He +was conveyed to the post headquarters. As soon as the Secretary of the +Interior heard of his arrest, he ordered his discharge, as there was no +law by which he could be detained or otherwise punished. Howell was +proud of his achievement and of the notoriety it gave him, boasting +that he had killed altogether eighty of the bison. This statement may +only have been made for the purpose of magnifying his crime and so +enhancing his importance. It may, however, be true. Besides those +actually known to have been slaughtered by him, the remains of thirteen +other bison, it is said, have been found in the Park. It is probable +they were all killed by him. + +When the intelligence of what had happened reached the country, much +indignation was manifested. The public, which after all did have a vague +sense of pride in the Park, and a rather loose wish to see it cared for, +was shocked and surprised to discover that no law existed by which the +offense could be reached. They were aroused to the knowledge that the +Park was the only portion of our domain uncontrolled by law. The Boone +and Crockett Club took prompt advantage of this awakened feeling, and +redoubled its efforts to secure action by the National Legislature. +Congress had long been deaf to the appeals of the few individuals who, +year after year, endeavored to obtain a law; but now, at last, they +realized that some action was really needed if they desired to save +anything in the Park. Mr. Lacey, of Iowa, the gentleman whom we have +mentioned as having had a practical experience of the condition of +affairs in the Park, was naturally the first to take hold of the +opportunity which public opinion afforded. He willingly adopted the +chief jurisdictional and police features contained in the Park bill to +which we have so frequently referred as repeatedly passing the Senate. +He readily acquiesced in all the amendments which were proposed by +members of the Boone and Crockett Club. The Club pushed the matter +vigorously. The aid of many prominent members of the House of +Representatives was enlisted. Before the hostile railroad party knew of +the movement, the bill was presented to the House, unanimous consent for +its consideration obtained, and it was passed. In the Senate the bill +was among its friends, and Senator Vest was again instrumental in +securing its passage. The promoters of the railroad scheme thought it +more prudent not to meddle with the bill in the Senate, as they would +have been certain to have encountered defeat. + +The Act provides penalties and the means of enforcing them, and thus +secures adequate protection. It makes the violation of any rule or +regulation of the Secretary of the Interior a misdemeanor. It prohibits +the killing or capture of game, or the taking of fish in an unlawful +manner. It forbids transportation of game, and for the violation of the +Act or regulations it imposes a fine not to exceed $1,000, or +imprisonment not to exceed two years, or both. It also confiscates the +traps, guns and means of transport of persons engaged in killing or +capturing game. Finally a local magistrate is appointed, with +jurisdiction to try all offenders violating the law governing the Park, +and it specifies the jurisdiction over felonies committed in the Park. +By a happy coincidence the new system was inaugurated by the trial and +conviction of the first offender put on trial, and it was Howell who was +the first prisoner in the dock. He had returned to the Park after the +passage of the law, and was tried and convicted of violating the order +of the Secretary of the Interior, by which he was expelled after he had +slaughtered the buffalo. This was retributive justice indeed. The Club +had desired that the law should be extended by Congress over the +Yellowstone Park Forest Reserve, but legal difficulties were +encountered, so that this protection had to be deferred. It is to be +hoped that in the near future this important adjunct to the Park may +have the same law applied to it. + +The Park is now on a solid foundation, and all that is necessary for its +future welfare is the prevention of adverse legislation cutting down its +limits or authorizing railroads within it. In the winter of 1894-95 the +railroad scheme, now disguised under the form of a bill to regulate the +boundaries of the Park, came up again. This was the old segregation +plan. It aimed not only to cut off from the Park that valuable portion +already described, and embracing 367 square miles north of the +Yellowstone, but also to make extensive cuts in the Forest Reserve for +railroad and other purposes, amounting to 640 square miles. This +spoliation was not permitted. Congress seemed at last to be determined +to support the Park intact, and the Committee of the Fifty-fourth +Congress in the House having the Park legislation in charge manifested +this disposition by adverse reports on all the bills to authorize +railroads and on the segregation bill as well. + +The present boundaries only need marking on the ground--a mere matter of +departmental action. There is no need of legislation on the subject. The +boundaries, especially on the north, afford such natural features as +constitute the best possible barrier to prevent depredation from +without, and to insure the retention of the game within, the Park. +Notwithstanding the inadequacy of the protection in former years, the +game has increased largely, especially since the military occupation. +Competent authority has estimated the number of elk as high as 20,000, +though this is probably too large a figure. Moose are frequently +encountered. Mountain sheep and antelope are found in goodly numbers. It +is doubtful now whether there are over 200 buffalo left. Bears of the +different varieties are very plentiful and deer are also quite abundant. +The animals thoroughly appreciate their security. They have largely lost +their fear of man. Antelope and sheep can be seen in the vicinity of the +stage roads, and are not disturbed by constant travel. Wild geese, ducks +and other birds refuse to rise from the water near which men pass. + +But bears show the most indifference for human presence. Attracted by +the food obtained, they frequent the neighborhood of the hotels in the +Park. The writer of these notes, together with some companions, had a +good opportunity, in the latter part of August, 1894, to observe how +bold and careless these generally wary animals may become if not hunted. + +When we reached the Lake Hotel, the clerk asked us if we wished to see a +bear, as he could show us one after we had finished dinner. We went with +him to a spot some 200 feet back of the hotel, where refuse was +deposited. It was then a little after sunset. We waited some moments, +when the clerk, taking his watch out of his pocket said, "It is strange +he has not come down; he is now a little overdue." Before he had +replaced his watch, he exclaimed, "Here he comes now," and we saw +descending slowly from a hill close by a very large black bear. The bear +approached us, when I said to the clerk, "Had not we better get behind +the timber? He will be frightened off should he see us." He answered, +"No, he will not be frightened in the least," and continued to converse +with us in a loud voice. We were then standing in the open close by a +swill heap and the bear was coming toward us, there being no timber +intervening. We did not move, but continued talking. The bear came up to +us without hesitation, diverging slightly from his direct route to the +swill heap so as to approach nearer to where we were. He surveyed us +leisurely, with his nose in the air, got our scent, and, seeming content +that we were only harmless human beings, turned slowly away and went to +the refuse, where he proceeded to make a meal. We watched him for quite +a while, when a large wagon passing along the road nigh to where we +stood, the bear stopped feeding and turned toward the hotel in the +direction in which the wagon was traveling. Our guide exclaimed, "He has +gone to visit the pig sty," and in a little while we were satisfied this +was so by hearing a loud outcry of "b'ar, b'ar," which we afterward +found proceeded from a Chinaman, one of whose special duties it was to +keep bears out of the pig sty. + +[Illustration: ON THE SHORE OF YELLOWSTONE LAKE.] + +After the departure of the black bear we retraced our steps, but before +getting to the hotel I suggested to one of my companions, Del. Hay, that +if we returned to the refuse pile we might see another bear. We +accordingly went back on the trail to within a few yards of where we +stood before. When we stopped we heard, in the timber near by, a great +noise, as if dead pine branches were being smashed, and there emerged +into the open a large grizzly. Although he was not quite so familiar as +the black bear, he showed no hesitation, but walked straight toward us +and the object of his visit--the swill. Before reaching his +destination, however, he stopped and squatted on his haunches, calmly +surveying the scene before him. The reason why he stopped became at once +apparent. From the same hill down which the black bear had come we saw +another grizzly, larger than the first, moving toward us at a rapid +gait, in fact, on a lope, while the first grizzly regarded him with a +look not altogether friendly or cordial. The second bear did not stop an +instant until he reached the swill heap, where he proceeded to devour +everything in sight, without any regard to us or to his fellow squatted +near by. The latter apparently had had some experience on a former +occasion which he was not desirous of repeating. + +Three men coming through the timber toward us made a considerable +racket, and the two bears moved off at no rapid gait in opposite +directions; but they went only a short way. Until we left the spot we +could see them on the edge of the timber, looking toward us, and, no +doubt, waiting for more quiet before partaking of the delights before +them. It was not easy to realize the scene before us was actual. The dim +twilight, the huge forms of the bears pacing to and fro through the +whitened dead timber, made it appear the creation of a disordered fancy. +It did not seem natural to be in close proximity with animals esteemed +so ferocious, at liberty in their native wilds, with no desire to attack +them and with no disposition on their part to attack us. When the three +men joined us and were talking about the bears, one of them shouted, +"Here come two more," and before we could realize it we saw two +good-sized cinnamons at the feast. They paid no attention whatever to +us, but were entirely absorbed in finishing up what the other bears had +left. By this time it was fast becoming dark and we returned to the +hotel. I should have said that we measured the distance from the nearest +point from the black bear to where we stood, and found it to be exactly +twenty-one feet. The other bears were but a few yards further. + +When we returned to the house we entertained our friends with an account +of what we had seen, and had there not been many eye-witnesses we +probably would have been entirely disbelieved.[14] As we were narrating +our story a man came into the room and said, "If you want some fun, come +outside; we have a bear up a tree." We went outside of the hotel, and +not over forty feet from it found a black bear in a pine tree. It seems +that the wagon, already mentioned, had been stopped at the pine tree and +the horses had been taken out. The owner, returning to his wagon, found +the bear in it, and this was the explanation why the bear had so +suddenly taken to the tree. + + [14] Colonel John Hay, of Washington, was one of the spectators of + this curious scene. Captain Albrecht Heese, of the German Embassy, + tells us that in July, 1895, while stopping at the Lake Hotel, he saw + a very large bear eating out of a trough in the daytime while a number + of tourists were present; and that the bear was finally chased away + from the trough by a cow. At the Upper Geyser Basin a bear was + domiciled in the hotel; it took food from the hands of the hotel + keeper, following him around like a dog. + +The animal was considerably smaller than the one we had seen earlier; in +fact, it was not more than half as large, but still full grown. Quite a +number of packers and teamsters stood about, amusing themselves by +making the bear climb higher, till at last one of them asked our driver, +Jim McMasters, why he did not climb the tree and shake the bear out. It +was quite dark, and McMasters replied that he would not mind doing so if +there were enough daylight for him to see. His companions continuing to +banter him, he finally said, "I believe I'll go up anyhow," and up he +went, climbing, however--instead of the tree the bear had ascended--a +companion tree which grew alongside of the other, the trunks of the two +not being more than a foot or so apart and the branches interlaced. We +soon lost sight of McMasters and of the bear also; for, as Jim climbed +the bear would climb too, until at last they both had reached the top of +their respective perches, when we heard Jim cry out, "Boys, he's got to +come down; I can reach him." With that he proceeded to break off a small +branch of his tree, and we could hear him whack the bear with it, and +also could hear the bear remonstrating with a very unpleasant voice, at +times approaching a roar. But at last the bear seemed to have made up +his mind that it was better to come down than stay up and be whacked +with a pine branch, so down he came, but not with any great rapidity, +stopping at every resting place, until Jim came down too and gave him a +little persuading. + +We could now see the action, but its dangerous features were lost sight +of in its amusing ones. Jim had climbed into the tree down which the +bear was descending, and when he was not persuading the bear he was +pleading with us somewhat as follows: "Now, boys, don't throw up here, +and don't none of you hit him until he gets down. If he should make up +his mind to come up again he'd clean me out, sure." After each speech of +this sort he would move down to where the bear was and apply his branch, +whereupon both the man and the animal would descend a few pegs lower. +At last the bear was almost near the ground. We all formed a circle +around the tree, prepared to give both man and beast a reception when +they should alight. The beast came first, and every fellow who had +anything in the way of wood in his hand gave the bear a blow or two as a +warning not to return to the wagon again. Bruin made off into the timber +with great precipitancy. Jim, when he got down, did not seem to think +that he had done anything more than if the bear had been a "possum," +which he had shaken out of the tree. + + + + +Head-Measurements of the Trophies at the Madison Square Garden +Sportsmen's Exhibition + + +During the week beginning May 14, 1895, there was held in Madison Square +Garden, New York, a Sportsmen's Exhibition. There was a fair exhibit of +heads, horns and skins, for which the credit largely belongs to +Frederick S. Webster, the taxidermist. + +At the request of the managers of the Exhibition, three of the members +of the Boone and Crockett Club--Messrs. Theodore Roosevelt, George Bird +Grinnell and Archibald Rogers--were appointed a Committee on +Measurements. There were heads and skins of every kind of North American +big game. Many of them were exhibited by amateur sportsmen, including +various members of the Boone and Crockett Club, while many others were +exhibited by furriers and taxidermists. + +Some of the measurements are worth recording. For convenience we +tabulate, in the case of each animal, the measurements of the specimens +exhibited by amateur sportsmen who themselves shot the animals. For +purposes of comparison we add the measurements of a few big heads +exhibited by taxidermists or furriers; also for purposes of comparison +we quote the figures given in two works published with special +reference to the question of horn measurements. One is the "Catalogue +and Notes of the American Hunting Trophies Exhibition" at London in +1887. The moving spirit in this exhibition was Mr. E. M. Buxton, who was +assisted by all the most noted English sportsmen who had shot in +America. The result was a noteworthy collection of trophies, almost all +of which belonged to animals shot by the exhibitors themselves. Very few +Americans took part in the exhibition, though several did so, one of the +two finest moose heads being exhibited by an American sportsman. + +The other big game book quoted is Rowland Ward's "Measurements," +published in London in 1892. This is a very valuable compilation of +authentic records of horn measurements gathered from many different +sources. In many cases it quotes from Mr. Buxton's catalogue. The +largest elk head, for instance, given by Ward is the one mentioned in +the Buxton catalogue. But in most instances the top measurements given +by Ward stand above the top measurements given in the catalogue, because +the latter, as already said, contains only a record of the trophies of +amateur sportsmen, whereas many of Ward's best measurements are from +museum specimens, or from picked heads obtained from furriers or +taxidermists, who chose the best out of those presented by many hundreds +of professional hunters. + +At the Madison Square exhibition there were numerous bear skins, polar, +grizzly and black, submitted by men who had shot them. There were a few +wolf and cougar skins and one peccary head; but there was no +satisfactory way of making measurements of any of these. The peccary's +head, which was submitted by Mr. Roosevelt, of course, had the tusks in +the skull, so that it was not possible to measure them; for the same +reason it was not possible to measure the skulls which were in the heads +of the bear, wolf and cougar skins exhibited by Mr. Roosevelt. + +There were few Oregon blacktail deer heads exhibited, and these were not +large. The one exhibited by Mr. Roosevelt, for instance, had horns 21 +inches in length, 4 inches in girth and 17 inches in spread. + +In measuring most horns it is comparatively easy to get some relative +idea of the size of the heads by giving simply the girth and length. The +spread is often given also; but this is not a good measurement, as a +rule, because, in mounting the head, it is very easy to increase the +spread; and, moreover, even where the spread is natural, it may be +excessive and out of proportion to the length of the horns, in which +case it amounts to a deformity. The length is in every case measured +from the butt to the tip along the outside curve of the horn. The girth +is given at the butt in the case of buffalo, sheep, goat and antelope; +but in the case of deer it is given at the narrowest part of the horn, +above the first tine; in elk this narrowest part comes between the bay +and tray points; in blacktail and whitetail deer it comes above the +"dog-killer" points, and below the main fork in the horn. Even in the +case of elk, deer, sheep and buffalo the measurements of length and +girth do not always indicate how fine a head is, although they generally +give at least an approximate idea. The symmetry of the head cannot be +indicated by these measurements. In elk and deer heads, extra points, +though sometimes mere deformities, yet when large and symmetrical add +greatly to the appearance and value of the head, making it heavier and +grander in every way, and being a proof of great strength and vitality +of the animal and of the horn itself. In consequence, although the +measurements of length and girth generally afford a good test of the +relative worth of buffalo, elk, sheep and deer heads, it is not by any +means an infallible test. + +With moose and caribou heads the test of mere length and girth is of far +less value; for many of them have such extraordinary antlers that the +measurements of length and girth mean but little, and give hardly any +idea of the weight and beauty of the antlers. With moose a better idea +of these qualities can be obtained by measuring the extreme breadth of +the palmation, and the extreme length from the tip of the brow point +backward in each horn. Caribou horns are often of such fantastic shape +that the actual measurements, taken in any ordinary way, give but a very +imperfect idea of the value of the trophies. Very long horns are sure to +be fine specimens, and yet they may not be nearly as fine as those which +are much shorter, but more branched, and with the branches longer, +broader and heavier, and at the same time more beautiful. Thus, at the +Madison Square Garden, C. G. Gunther's Sons, the furriers, exhibited one +caribou with antlers 50 inches long, of the barren ground type, with 43 +points. These horns were very slender, and would not have weighed more +than a third as much as an enormous pair belonging to a woodland +caribou, which were some 10 inches shorter in extreme length, and with +rather fewer points, but were more massive in every way, the beam being +far larger, and all of the tines being palmated to a really +extraordinary extent. + + + + +_TABULATED SERIES_ + +With name of owner, and locality and date of capture. + + +BISON BULL. + + Girth. Length. + 1. P. Liebinger, Western Montana, '93 12-1/2 19 + 2. Theodore Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Sept., '83 12-3/4 14 + 3. Theodore Roosevelt, S. W. Montana, Sept., '89 12-1/2 17-1/2 + + No. 2 was an old stub-horn bull, the animal being bigger in body + than No. 3, which, like No. 1, was a bull in the prime of life. + +F. Sauter, the taxidermist, exhibited a head killed in Montana in 1894, +which measured 14 inches in girth and 18 inches in length. + +In Ward's book the horns of the biggest bison given measure 15 inches in +girth and 20-7/8 inches in length. + + +BIG-HORN SHEEP. + + Girth. Length. Spread. + 4. Geo. H. Gould, Lower Cal., Dec., '94 16-1/4 42-1/2 25-3/4 + 5. G. O. Shields, Ashnola River, B. C. 16-1/4 37-3/4 22-1/2 + 6. Arch. Rogers, N. W. Wyoming 16 34 17 + 7. Arch. Rogers, N. W. Wyoming 15-1/2 33-1/2 23 + 8. T. Roosevelt, Little Mo. River, N. D. 16 29-1/2 18-1/2 + + No. 4 had the tip of one horn broken; it is on the whole the finest + head of which we have any record. + + No. 5 was a very heavy head, the horns huge and with blunted tips. + +A head was exhibited by C. G. Gunther's Sons which measured 17-3/4 +inches in girth, although it was but 33-1/2 inches in length. + +In Buxton's catalogue the three biggest rams exhibited by English +sportsmen had horns which measured respectively, in girth and length, +15-3/4 and 39 inches, 16-3/8 and 38-1/4 inches, and 16-1/2 and 31 +inches. + +In Ward's catalogue the biggest specimen given had horns which were +17-1/4 inches in girth and 41 inches in length. + + +WHITE GOAT. + + Girth. Length. + 9. Walter James, Swift Current River, Mont., '92 5-3/4 10-1/2 + 10. T. Roosevelt, Big Hole Basin, Mont., Aug., '89 5-1/16 9-1/16 + 11. Theodore Roosevelt, Heron, Mont., Sept., '86 5 9-3/4 + + No. 11 was a female; as the horns of the female white goat always + are, these horns were a little longer and slenderer than those of + No. 10, which was a big-bodied buck. + +In Buxton's catalogue the biggest horns given were 5 inches in girth and +8-1/4 inches in length. The two biggest specimens given in Ward's were 5 +inches in girth by 10-1/8 inches, and 5-1/2 by 9-1/2 inches. + + +MUSK OX. + +There was no musk ox head exhibited by an amateur sportsman. One, which +was exhibited by W. W. Hart & Co., had horns each of which was 29-3/4 +inches by 20-1/2 inches; the height of the boss was 13 inches. One of +the members of the Boone and Crockett Club, Mr. Caspar W. Whitney, has +this year, 1895, killed a number of musk ox; but he did not return from +his winter trip to the Barren Grounds until June. + + +PRONGBUCK. + + Girth. Length. + 12. Theodore Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Sept., '84 6-1/2 16 + 13. A. Rogers 6 12-1/2 + 14. A. Rogers 6-1/4 10-7/8 + + No. 13 measured from tip to tip 6-1/8 inches. The greatest width + inside the horns was 8-5/8 inches; the corresponding figures for + No. 14 were 7-3/4 and 10-1/4 inches. + +In Buxton's catalogue the largest measurements given were for a specimen +which girthed 5-1/8 inches, and was in length 15-3/4 inches. + +In Ward's catalogue the two biggest specimens given measured +respectively 15-3/4 inches in length by 6-1/4 inches in girth, and +12-7/8 inches in length by 6-1/2 inches in girth. + + +WAPITI OR ROUND-HORN ELK. + + Girth. Length. Spread. Points. + 15. A. Rogers, Northwestern Wyoming 8 64-1/4 48 7+7 + 16. G. O. Shields, Clark's Fork, Wyo. 8-1/4 51-3/8 50 6+7 + 17. T. Roosevelt, Two Ocean Pass, '91 6-7/8 56-1/2 46-3/8 6+6 + 18. T. Roosevelt, Two Ocean Pass, '91 7-3/4 50-3/4 47 6+6 + 19. P. Liebinger, Indian Creek, Mont. 6-1/8 50-1/2 54 8+8 + + No. 15, as far as we know, is the record head for amateur sportsmen + in point of length. + + No. 16 has very heavy massive antlers; though these are not so long + as the antlers of No. 17, yet No. 16 is really the finer head. + +In Buxton's catalogue the three finest heads measure respectively 8 +inches in girth by 62-1/2 inches in length by 48-1/2 inches spread, with +7+9 points; and 7-7/8 inches in girth by 60-3/4 inches in length by 52 +inches spread, with 6+6 points; and 8-1/2 inches in girth by 55 inches +in length by 41-1/4 spread, with 6+6 points. + +These are also the biggest heads given in Ward's catalogue. + + +MULE OR BLACKTAIL DEER. + + Girth. Length. Spread. + 20. T. Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Oct. '83 5 26-7/8 28-1/2 + 21. P. Liebinger, Madison R., Mont., '89 4-3/4 25-1/2 25-1/2 + + No. 20 is an extremely massive and symmetrical head with 28 points. + + No. 21 has 35 points. + +A still heavier head than either of the above, with 34 points, was +exhibited by the furriers, C. G. Gunther's Sons; it was in girth 5-1/4 +inches, length 26 inches and spread 28-1/4 inches. + +In Buxton's catalogue the length of the biggest mule deer horn exhibited +was 28-1/2 inches. + +In Ward's catalogue the biggest heads measured respectively: girth 4-1/2 +inches by 28-5/8 inches length, and girth 5-1/4 inches by 27 inches +length; they had 10 and 11 points respectively. + + +WHITETAIL OR VIRGINIA DEER. + + Girth. Length. Spread. + 22. G. B. Grinnell, Dismal River, Neb., '77 4-5/8 24 19-1/2 + 23. T. Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., '94 4 22-1/2 15-3/4 + + No. 22 is a very fine head with 18 points; very symmetrical. No. 23 + has 12 points. + +In Ward's measurements the biggest whitetail horns are in girth 5-3/8 +inches, and in length 27-5/8 inches. + + +MOOSE. + + Girth. Length. Points. + 24. Col. Haselton, Chesuncook, Me., '87 8-1/2 41 27 + 25. A. Rogers 7 31-3/4 14 + 26. T. Roosevelt, Bitter Root Mt., + Mont., '89 5-1/2 30 22 + + No. 24, a pair of horns only, is, with the possible exception of a + head of Mr. Bierstadt's, the finest we have ever seen in the + possession of an amateur sportsman. The measurements of the palm of + one antler were 41-1/2 by 21-3/4 inches. + + No. 26 has a spread of 40-1/2 inches, and the palm measured 29 by + 13 inches. + +In Buxton's catalogue the biggest moose given had horns which in girth +were 8-1/2 inches and in length 35-1/2 inches; the palm was 41 by 24 +inches; the spread was 65 inches. These measurements indicate a head +about as fine as Col. Haselton's, taking everything into consideration. + +The largest head given by Ward was 6-1/2 inches in girth by 39-7/8 +inches in length and 51-3/8 inches spread. It had 25 points, and the +breadth of the palm was 15-3/4 inches. + +For the reason given above, it is difficult in the case of moose, and +far more difficult in the case of caribou, to judge the respective +merits of heads by the mere record of measurements. + + +CARIBOU. + + Girth. Length. Points. + 27. A. Rogers 4-3/4 41-1/4 16 + 28. T. Roosevelt, Kootenai, B. C., Sept., + '88 5-1/2 32 14 + +Neither of these is a big head. C. G. Gunther's Sons exhibited one +caribou with 43 points. Its horns were 5-7/8 inches in girth by 50 +inches in length. They also exhibited a much heavier head, which was but +37 inches long, but was 6-1/2 inches in girth, with all of the tines +highly palmated; one of the brow points had a palm 17-1/2 inches high. + +In Buxton's catalogue the biggest caribou antler given girthed 5-1/2 +inches and was in length 37-1/2 inches. The biggest measurements given +by Ward are 5-5/8 inches in girth by 60 inches in length for a specimen +with 37 points. + + + + +National Park Protective Act + + + An Act to protect the birds and animals in Yellowstone National + Park, and to punish crimes in said Park, and for other purposes. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United +States of America in Congress assembled_, That the Yellowstone National +Park, as its boundaries now are defined, or as they may be hereafter +defined or extended, shall be under the sole and exclusive jurisdiction +of the United States; and that all the laws applicable to places under +the sole and exclusive jurisdiction of the United States shall have +force and effect in said Park: _Provided, however_, That nothing in this +Act shall be construed to forbid the service in the Park of any civil or +criminal process of any court having jurisdiction in the States of +Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. All fugitives from justice taking refuge in +said Park shall be subject to the same laws as refugees from justice +found in the State of Wyoming. + +SEC. 2. That said Park, for all the purposes of this Act, shall +constitute a part of the United States judicial district of Wyoming, and +the district and circuit courts of the United States in and for said +district shall have jurisdiction of all offenses committed within said +Park. + +SEC. 3. That if any offense shall be committed in said Yellowstone +National Park, which offense is not prohibited or the punishment is not +specially provided for by any law of the United States or by any +regulation of the Secretary of the Interior, the offender shall be +subject to the same punishment as the laws of the State of Wyoming in +force at the time of the commission of the offense may provide for a +like offense in the said State; and no subsequent repeal of any such law +of the State of Wyoming shall affect any prosecution for said offense +committed within said Park. + +SEC. 4. That all hunting, or the killing, wounding, or capturing at any +time of any bird or wild animal, except dangerous animals, when it is +necessary to prevent them from destroying human life or inflicting an +injury, is prohibited within the limits of said Park; nor shall any fish +be taken out of the waters of the Park by means of seines, nets, traps, +or by the use of drugs or any explosive substances or compounds, or in +any other way than by hook and line, and then only at such seasons and +in such times and manner as may be directed by the Secretary of the +Interior. That the Secretary of the Interior shall make and publish such +rules and regulations as he may deem necessary and proper for the +management and care of the Park, and for the protection of the property +therein, especially for the preservation from injury or spoliation of +all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or wonderful objects +within said Park; and for the protection of the animals and birds in the +Park from capture or destruction, or to prevent their being frightened +or driven from the Park; and he shall make rules and regulations +governing the taking of fish from the streams or lakes in the Park. +Possession within the said Park of the dead bodies, or any part thereof, +of any wild bird or animal shall be _prima facie_ evidence that the +person or persons having the same are guilty of violating this Act. Any +person or persons, or stage or express company or railway company, +receiving for transportation any of the said animals, birds or fish so +killed, taken or caught shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and +shall be fined for every such offense not exceeding three hundred +dollars. Any person found guilty of violating any of the provisions of +this Act, or any rule or regulation that may be promulgated by the +Secretary of the Interior with reference to the management and care of +the Park, or for the protection of the property therein, for the +preservation from injury or spoliation of timber, mineral deposits, +natural curiosities or wonderful objects within said Park, or for the +protection of the animals, birds and fish in the said Park, shall be +deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be subjected to a fine of not +more than one thousand dollars, or imprisonment not exceeding two years, +or both, and be adjudged to pay all costs of the proceedings. + +That all guns, traps, teams, horses, or means of transportation of every +nature or description used by any person or persons within said Park +limits, when engaged in killing, trapping, ensnaring or capturing such +wild beasts, birds, or wild animals, shall be forfeited to the United +States, and may be seized by the officers in said Park and held pending +the prosecution of any person or persons arrested under charge of +violating the provisions of this Act, and upon conviction under this Act +of such person or persons using said guns, traps, teams, horses, or +other means of transportation, such forfeiture shall be adjudicated as a +penalty in addition to the other punishment provided in this Act. Such +forfeited property shall be disposed of and accounted for by and under +the authority of the Secretary of the Interior. + +SEC. 5. That the United States circuit court in said district shall +appoint a commissioner, who shall reside in the Park, who shall have +jurisdiction to hear and act upon all complaints made, of any and all +violations of the law, or of the rules and regulations made by the +Secretary of the Interior for the government of the Park, and for the +protection of the animals, birds and fish, and objects of interest +therein, and for other purposes authorized by this Act. Such +commissioner shall have power, upon sworn information, to issue process +in the name of the United States for the arrest of any person charged +with the commission of any misdemeanor, or charged with the violation of +the rules and regulations, or with the violation of any provision of +this Act prescribed for the government of said Park, and for the +protection of the animals, birds and fish in the said Park, and to try +the person so charged; and, if found guilty, to impose the punishment +and adjudge the forfeiture prescribed. In all cases of conviction an +appeal shall lie from the judgment of said commissioner to the United +States district court for the district of Wyoming, said appeal to be +governed by the laws of the State of Wyoming providing for appeals in +cases of misdemeanor from justices of the peace to the district court of +said State; but the United States circuit court in said district may +prescribe rules of procedure and practice for said commissioner in the +trial of cases and for appeal to said United States district court. Said +commissioner shall also have power to issue process as hereinbefore +provided for the arrest of any person charged with the commission of any +felony within the Park, and to summarily hear the evidence introduced, +and, if he shall determine that probable cause is shown for holding the +person so charged for trial, shall cause such person to be safely +conveyed to a secure place for confinement, within the jurisdiction of +the United States district court in said State of Wyoming, and shall +certify a transcript of the record of his proceedings and the testimony +in the case to the said court, which court shall have jurisdiction of +the case: _Provided_, That the said commissioner shall grant bail in all +cases bailable under the laws of the United States or of said State. All +process issued by the commissioner shall be directed to the marshal of +the United States for the district of Wyoming; but nothing herein +contained shall be construed as preventing the arrest by any officer of +the Government or employee of the United States in the Park without +process of any person taken in the act of violating the law or any +regulation of the Secretary of the Interior: _Provided_, That the said +commissioner shall only exercise such authority and powers as are +conferred by this Act. + +SEC. 6. That the marshal of the United States for the district of +Wyoming may appoint one or more deputy marshals for said Park, who shall +reside in said Park, and the said United States district and circuit +courts shall hold one session of said courts annually at the town of +Sheridan, in the State of Wyoming, and may also hold other sessions at +any other place in said State of Wyoming or in said National Park at +such dates as the said courts may order. + +SEC. 7. That the commissioner provided for in this Act shall, in +addition to the fees allowed by law to commissioners of the circuit +courts of the United States, be paid an annual salary of one thousand +dollars, payable quarterly, and the marshal of the United States and his +deputies, and the attorney of the United States and his assistants in +said district, shall be paid the same compensation and fees as are now +provided by law for like services in said district. + +SEC. 8. That all costs and expenses arising in cases under this Act, and +properly chargeable to the United States, shall be certified, approved +and paid as like costs and expenses in the courts of the United States +are certified, approved and paid under the laws of the United States. + +SEC. 9. That the Secretary of the Interior shall cause to be erected in +the Park a suitable building to be used as a jail, and also having in +said building an office for the use of the commissioner; the cost of +such building not to exceed five thousand dollars, to be paid out of any +moneys in the Treasury not otherwise appropriated upon the certificate +of the Secretary as a voucher therefor. + +SEC. 10. That this Act shall not be construed to repeal existing laws +conferring upon the Secretary of the Interior and the Secretary of War +certain powers with reference to the protection, improvement and control +of the said Yellowstone National Park. + +Approved May 7, 1894. + + + + +Constitution of the Boone and Crockett Club + +FOUNDED DECEMBER, 1887. + + +Article I. + +This Club shall be known as the Boone and Crockett Club. + + +Article II. + +The objects of the Club shall be-- + +1. To promote manly sport with the rifle. + +2. To promote travel and exploration in the wild and unknown, or but +partially known, portions of the country. + +3. To work for the preservation of the large game of this country, and, +so far as possible, to further legislation for that purpose, and to +assist in enforcing the existing laws. + +4. To promote inquiry into, and to record observations on the habits and +natural history of, the various wild animals. + +5. To bring about among the members the interchange of opinions and +ideas on hunting, travel and exploration; on the various kinds of +hunting-rifles; on the haunts of game animals, etc. + + +Article III. + +No one shall be eligible for membership who shall not have killed with +the rifle in fair chase, by still-hunting or otherwise, at least one +individual of one of the various kinds of American large game. + + +Article IV. + +Under the head of American large game are included the following +animals: Bear, buffalo (bison), mountain sheep, caribou, cougar, +musk-ox, white goat, elk (wapiti), wolf (not coyote), pronghorn +antelope, moose and deer. + + +Article V. + +The term "fair chase" shall not be held to include killing bear, wolf or +cougar in traps, nor "fire-hunting," nor "crusting" moose, elk or deer +in deep snow, nor killing game from a boat while it is swimming in the +water. + + +Article VI. + +This Club shall consist of not more than one hundred regular members, +and of such associate and honorary members as may be elected. + + +Article VII. + +The Committee on Admissions shall consist of the President and Secretary +and the Chairman of the Executive Committee. In voting for regular +members, six blackballs shall exclude. In voting for associate and +honorary members, ten blackballs shall exclude. Candidates for regular +membership who are at the same time associate members shall be voted +upon before any other. + + +Article VIII. + +The Club shall hold one fixed meeting a year, to be held the second +Wednesday in January, and to be called the annual meeting. + + +Article IX. + +This Constitution shall not be changed, save by a four-fifths vote of +the members present. + + + + +Officers of the Boone and Crockett Club 1895 + + +_President._ + + Theodore Roosevelt, New York. + + +_Secretary and Treasurer._ + + George Bird Grinnell, New York. + + +_Executive Committee._ + + W. A. Wadsworth, Geneseo, N. Y. + Archibald Rogers, Hyde Park, N. Y. + Winthrop Chanler, New York. + Owen Wister, Philadelphia, Pa. + Charles Deering, Chicago, Ill. + + +_Editorial Committee._ + + Theodore Roosevelt, New York. + George Bird Grinnell, New York. + + + + +List of Members of the Boone and Crockett Club + + +* Deceased. + + Lieut. Henry T. Allen, Washington, D. C. + Capt. Geo. S. Anderson, Yellowstone Park, Wyo. + F. H. Barber, Southampton, L. I. + D. M. Barringer, Philadelphia, Pa. + Hon. T. Beal, Washington, D. C. + Albert Bierstadt, New York. + W. J. Boardman, Cleveland, Ohio. + Wm. B. Bogert, Chicago, Ill. + Hon. Benj. H. Bristow, New York. + Wm. B. Bristow, New York. + A. E. Brown, Philadelphia, Pa. + Major Campbell Brown, Spring Hill, Tenn. + Col. John Mason Brown,* Louisville, Ky. + W. A. Buchanan, Chicago, Ill. + H. D. Burnham, Chicago, Ill. + Edw. North Buxton, London, Eng. + H. A. Carey,* Newport, R. I. + Royal Carroll, New York. + Judge John Dean Caton,* Ottawa, Ill. + J. A. Chanler, New York. + W. A. Chanler, New York. + Winthrop Chanler, New York. + Frank C. Crocker, Portland, Me. + A. P. Gordon-Cumming, Washington. D. C. + Chas. P. Curtiss, Boston, Mass. + Paul J. Dashiell, Annapolis, Md. + E. W. Davis, Providence, R. I. + Chas. Deering, Chicago, Ill. + H. C. de Rham, New York. + W. B. Devereux, Glenwood Springs, Colo. + Col. Richard Irving Dodge, Washington, D. C. + Dr. Wm. K. Draper, New York. + J. Coleman Drayton, New York. + Capt. Frank Edwards, Washington, D. C. + Dr. D. G. Elliott, Chicago, Ill. + Maxwell Evarts, New York. + Robert Munro Ferguson, New York. + J. G. Follansbee, San Francisco, Cal. + Frank Furness, Philadelphia, Pa. + W. R. Furness, Jr., Jekyll Island, Brunswick, Ga. + Jas. T. Gardiner, Albany, N. Y. + John Sterett Gittings, Baltimore, Md. + George H. Gould, Santa Barbara, Cal. + De Forest Grant, New York. + Madison Grant, New York. + Gen. A. W. Greely, Washington, D. C. + Geo. Bird Grinnell, New York. + Wm. Milne Grinnell, New York. + Arnold Hague, Washington, D. C. + Hon. Wade Hampton, Columbia, S. C. + Howard Melville Hanna, Cleveland, Ohio. + Major Moses Harris, Washington, D. C. + Maj. Gen. W. H. Jackson, Nashville, Tenn. + Dr. Walter B. James, New York. + Col. Jas. H. Jones, New York. + Clarence King, New York. + C. Grant La Farge, New York. + Alex. Lambert, New York. + Dundas Lippincott,* Philadelphia, Pa. + Hon. Henry Cabot Lodge, Washington, D. C. + Francis C. Lowndes, New York. + Frank Lyman, Brooklyn, N. Y. + Geo. H. Lyman, Boston, Mass. + Chas. B. Macdonald, Chicago, Ill. + Prof. John Bache MacMasters, Philadelphia, Pa. + Henry May, Washington, D. C. + Col. H. C. McDowell, Lexington, Ky. + Dr. C. Hart Merriam, Washington, D. C. + Dr. J. C. Merrill, Washington, D. C. + Dr. A. Rutherfurd Morris, New York. + J. Chester Morris, Jr., Chestnut Hill, Pa. + H. N. Munn, New York. + Lyman Nichols, Boston, Mass. + Jas. S. Norton, Chicago, Ill. + Francis Parkman,* Boston, Mass. + Thos. Paton, New York. + Hon. Boies Penrose, Philadelphia, Pa. + C. B. Penrose, Philadelphia, Pa. + R. A. F. Penrose, Philadelphia, Pa. + W. Hallett Phillips, Washington, D. C. + Col. W. T. Pickett, Meeteetse, Wyo. + H. C. Pierce, St. Louis, Mo. + John J. Pierrepont, Brooklyn, N. Y. + Capt. John Pitcher, Washington, D. C. + A. P. Proctor, New York. + Hon. Redfield Proctor, Washington, D. C. + Prof. Ralph Pumpelly, Newport, R. I. + Percy Pyne, Jr., New York. + Hon. Thos. B. Reed, Portland, Me. + Douglas Robinson, Jr., New York. + Hon. W. Woodville Rockhill, Washington, D. C. + Archibald Rogers, Hyde Park, N. Y. + E. P. Rogers,* Hyde Park, N. Y. + Elliott Roosevelt,* Abingdon, Va. + John Ellis Roosevelt, New York. + J. West Roosevelt, New York. + Hon. Theo. Roosevelt, New York. + Elihu Root, New York. + Bronson Rumsey, Buffalo, N. Y. + Lawrence Rumsey, Buffalo, N. Y. + Dean Sage, Albany, N. Y. + Alden Sampson, Boston, Mass. + Hon. Carl Schurz, New York. + Philip Schuyler, Irvington, N. Y. + M. G. Seckendorf, Washington, D. C. + Dr. J. L. Seward, Orange, N. J. + Gen. Phil. Sheridan,* Washington, D. C. + Gen. W. T. Sherman,* New York. + Chas. F. Sprague, Boston, Mass. + Henry L. Stimson, New York. + Hon. Bellamy Storer, Washington, D. C. + Rutherfurd Stuyvesant, New York. + Frank Thompson, Philadelphia, Pa. + B. C. Tilghman, Philadelphia, Pa. + T. S. Van Dyke, San Diego, Cal. + Hon. G. G. Vest, Washington, D. C. + W. A. Wadsworth, Geneseo, N. Y. + Samuel D. Warren, Boston, Mass. + Jas. Sibley Watson, Rochester, N. Y. + Maj. Gen. W. D. Whipple, Norristown, Pa. + Chas. E. Whitehead, New York. + Caspar W. Whitney, New York. + E. P. Wilbur, Jr., South Bethlehem, Pa. + Col. Roger D. Williams, Lexington, Ky. + R. D. Winthrop, New York. + Owen Wister, Philadelphia, Pa. + J. Walter Wood, Jr., New York. + + + + +Transcriber's Note + + +Illustrations have been moved near the relevant section of the text. + +I have used "=" in the text to denote use of an ornamental font. + +[=a] (used in the word, "G[=a]t") represents an "a" with an macron +above it. + +Inconsistencies have been retained in hyphenation and grammar, except +where indicated in the list below. I have left "Colomiaghi" and +"Colombiagi" as-is although they may refer to the same location. + +Here is a list of the minor typographical corrections made: + + - "Zloeem" changed to "Zlooem" on Page 8 + - Period added before "577" on Page 24 + - "First" changed to "first" on Page 71 + - "necesssary" changed to "necessary" on Page 188 + - Removed period after "hillside" on Page 273 + - "ZLOEEM" changed to "ZLOOEM" in the caption for the illustration + following Page 318 + - Period changed to a comma after "However" on Page 336 + - "cotemporaneously" changed to "contemporaneously" on Page 370 + - Quotation mark added after "tributaries." on Page 384 + - Comma added after "Penrose" on Page 446 + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hunting in Many Lands, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HUNTING IN MANY LANDS *** + +***** This file should be named 37122-8.txt or 37122-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/1/2/37122/ + +Produced by David Edwards, Linda Hamilton and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hunting in Many Lands + The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club + +Author: Various + +Editor: Theodore Roosevelt + George Bird Grinnell + +Release Date: August 18, 2011 [EBook #37122] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HUNTING IN MANY LANDS *** + + + + +Produced by David Edwards, Linda Hamilton and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="cover"></a> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" border="1" alt=">Hunting in Many Lands: The Book of the +Boone and Crockett Club" title="" width="461" height="700"> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="crown"></a> + +<img src="images/i002.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="539"> +<p class="caption">THE CROWN OF CHIEF MOUNTAIN FROM THE SOUTHEAST.</p></div> + + +<div class="linearound newpg"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a> +<h1 style="line-height:150%;padding-top:1em;"> +<span style="font-weight: bold;font-size: .8em;">Hunting</span><br> +In Many Lands</h1> + +<div class="figcenter" style="padding-bottom:2em;padding-top:2em;"><img src="images/i003a.png" +border="0" alt="The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club" title="" width="611" height="39"></div> + +<div class="center" style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:.5em;line-height:1.4;"> +<span style="font-size: .85em;display:block;padding-bottom:.25em;">EDITORS<br></span> +<span style="font-size: 1em;">THEODORE ROOSEVELT<br></span> +<span style="font-size: 1em;">GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="padding-bottom:2em;padding-top:2em;"><img src="images/i003.png" +border="0" alt="" title="" width="250" height="288"></div> + +<div class="center" style="padding-top:1.5em;padding-bottom:2em;line-height:1.4;"> +<span style="font-size: .85em;display:block;">NEW-YORK<br></span> +<span style="font-size: .85em;">FOREST AND STREAM PUBLISHING COMPANY<br></span> +<span style="font-size: 1em;">1895</span> +</div> + +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a> + +<p class="center" style="font-size:.9em;margin-top:2em;">Copyright, 1895, by<br> +Forest and Stream Publishing Company</p> + +<p style="text-align: left;text-indent:0em;font-size:.9em;margin-top:3em;margin-left:20%;">Forest and Stream Press,<br> +New York, N. Y., U. S. A.</p> +<p><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"> +<h2><a name="Contents" id="Contents"></a>Contents</h2> + +<table border="0" width="70%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="6" summary="Contents" align="center"> +<tr style="vertical-align:bottom;"> +<th style="text-align:left;font-weight:normal;width:90%;padding-bottom: 0em;"> </th> +<th style="text-align:right;font-weight:bold;width:10%;padding-bottom: 0em;"><span class="smaller">Page</span></th> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;width:80%;"><span class="toctext">Hunting in East Africa</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;width:20%;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_1">13</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">W. A. Chanler.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">To the Gulf of Cortez</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_2">55</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">George H. Gould.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">A Canadian Moose Hunt</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_3">84</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">Madison Grant.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">A Hunting Trip in India</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_4">107</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">Elliott Roosevelt.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Dog Sledging in the North</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_5">123</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">D. M. Barringer.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Wolf-Hunting in Russia</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_6">151</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">Henry T. Allen.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">A Bear-Hunt in the Sierras</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_7">187</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">Alden Sampson.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">The Ascent of Chief Mountain</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_8">220</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">Henry L. Stimson.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">The Cougar</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_9">238</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">Casper W. Whitney.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Big Game of Mongolia and Tibet</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_10">255</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">W. W. Rockhill.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a><span class="toctext">Hunting in the Cattle Country</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_11">278</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">Theodore Roosevelt.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Wolf-Coursing</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_12">318</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">Roger D. Williams.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Game Laws</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_13">358</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">Charles E. Whitehead.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Protection of the Yellowstone National Park</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_14">377</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">George S. Anderson.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><hr style="width: 10%; margin-top:.2em;margin-bottom:.2em;"></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">The Yellowstone National Park Protection Act</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#CHAPTER_15">403</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="tocauthor">George S. Anderson.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toc2">Head-Measurements of the Trophies at the Madison Square Garden Sportsmen's Exposition</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage2"><a href="#CHAPTER_16">424</a></span></td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toc2">National Park Protective Act</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage2"><a href="#CHAPTER_17">433</a></span></td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toc2">Constitution of the Boone and Crockett Club</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage2"><a href="#CHAPTER_18">439</a></span></td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toc2">Officers of the Boone and Crockett Club</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage2"><a href="#CHAPTER_19">442</a></span></td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toc2">List of Members</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;"><span class="tocpage2"><a href="#CHAPTER_20">443</a></span></td> +</tr> +</table> + + + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a> +<h2><a name="illustrations"></a>List of Illustrations</h2> + +<table border="0" width="70%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="6" summary="List of Illustrations" align="center"> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;width:80%;"><span class="toctext">Crown of Chief Mountain</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;width:20%;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#crown">Frontispiece</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2" width="90%"><span class="tocill">From the southeast. One-half mile distant. Photographed +by Dr. Walter B. James.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:bottom;"> +<th style="text-align:left;font-weight:normal;width:90%;padding-bottom: 0em;"> </th> +<th style="text-align:right;font-weight:bold;width:10%;padding-bottom: 0em;" colspan="2"><span class="smaller">Facing Page</span></th> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">A Mountain Sheep</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#mountain_sheep">55</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">Photographed from Life. From Forest and Stream.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Rocky Mountain and Polo's Sheep</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#rocky_and_polo_sheep">75</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">The figures are drawn to the same scale and show +the difference in the spread of horns. From Forest +and Stream.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">A Moose of the Upper Ottawa</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#moose">85</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">Killed by Madison Grant, October 10, 1893.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">How our Outfit was Carried</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#outfit">123</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">Photographed by D. M. Barringer.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Outeshai, Russian Barzoi</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#outeshai">151</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">Winner of the hare-coursing prize at Colombiagi (near +St. Petersburg) two years in succession. In type, +however, he is faulty.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Fox-hounds of the Imperial Kennels</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#foxhounds">177</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">The men and dogs formed part of the hunt described.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>The Chief's Crown from the East</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#crown2">229</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">Photographed by Dr. Walter B. James. Distance, +two miles.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Yaks Grazing</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#yaks">255</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">Photographed by Hon. W. W. Rockhill.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Ailuropus Melanoleucus</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#ailuropus">263</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">From Forest and Stream.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Elaphurus Davidianus</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#elaphurus">271</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill"> </span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">The Wolf Throwing <a name="tn_008"></a><!-- TN: "Zloeem" changed to "Zlooem"--> +Zlooem, the Barzoi</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#wolf">319</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">From Leslie's Weekly.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">Yellowstone Park Elk</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#elk">377</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">From Forest and Stream.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">A Hunting Day</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#huntingday">395</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">From Forest and Stream.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">In Yellowstone Park Snows</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#snows">413</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">From Forest and Stream.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> + +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;"><span class="toctext">On the Shore of Yellowstone Lake</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;" colspan="2"><span class="tocpage"><a href="#shore">419</a></span></td> +</tr> +<tr style="vertical-align:top;"> +<td style="text-align:left;" colspan="2"><span class="tocill">From Forest and Stream.</span></td> +<td> </td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="blockquot"><span class="smcap">Note.</span>—The mountain sheep's head on the cover is from a photograph +of the head of the big ram killed by Mr. Gould in Lower California, +as described in the article "To the Gulf of Cortez."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a> +<h2><a name="Preface" id="Preface"></a>Preface</h2> + + +<p>The first volume published by the Boone +and Crockett Club, under the title "American +Big Game Hunting," confined itself, as its +title implied, to sport on this continent. In +presenting the second volume, a number of +sketches are included written by members who +have hunted big game in other lands. The +contributions of those whose names are so +well known in connection with explorations +in China and Tibet, and in Africa, have an +exceptional interest for men whose use of the +rifle has been confined entirely to the North +American continent.</p> + +<p>During the two years that have elapsed +since the appearance of its last volume, the +Boone and Crockett Club has not been idle. +The activity of its members was largely instrumental +in securing at last the passage by +Congress of an act to protect the Yellowstone +National Park, and to punish crimes and offenses +within its borders, though it may be<a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a> +questioned whether even their efforts would +have had any result had not the public interest +been aroused, and the Congressional conscience +pricked, by the wholesale slaughter +of buffalo which took place in the Park in +March, 1894, as elsewhere detailed by Capt. +Anderson and the editors. Besides this, the +Club has secured the passage, by the New +York Legislature, of an act incorporating the +New York Zoölogical Society, and a considerable +representation of the Club is found in the +list of its officers and managers. Other efforts, +made by Boone and Crockett members +in behalf of game and forest protection, have +been less successful, and there is still a wide +field for the Club's activities.</p> + +<p>Public sentiment should be aroused on the +general question of forest preservation, and +especially in the matter of securing legislation +which will adequately protect the game and +the forests of the various forest reservations +already established. Special attention was +called to this point in the earlier volume published +by the Club, from which we quote:</p> + +<div class=blockquot><p>If it was worth while to establish these reservations, it is worth +while to protect them. A general law, providing for the adequate +guarding of all such national possessions, should be enacted by Congress, +and wherever it may be necessary such Federal laws should be<a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a> +supplemented by laws of the States in which the reservations lie. The +timber and the game ought to be made the absolute property of the +Government, and it should be constituted a punishable offense to +appropriate such property within the limits of the reservation. The +game and timber on a reservation should be regarded as Government +property, just as are the mules and the cordwood at an army post. If +it is a crime to take the latter, it should be a crime to plunder a forest +reservation.</p> + +<p>In these reservations is to be found to-day every species of large +game known to the United States, and the proper protection of the +reservations means the perpetuating in full supply of all the indigenous +mammals. If this care is provided, no species of American large game +need ever become absolutely extinct; and intelligent effort for game +protection may well be directed toward securing through national +legislation the policing of forest preserves by timber and game +wardens.</p></div> + +<p>A really remarkable phenomenon in American +animal life, described in the paper on the +Yellowstone Park Protection Act, is the attitude +now assumed toward mankind by the +bears, both grizzly and black, in the Yellowstone +National Park. The preservation of the +game in the Park has unexpectedly resulted in +turning a great many of the bears into scavengers +for the hotels within the Park limits. +Their tameness and familiarity are astonishing; +they act much more like hogs than beasts of +prey. Naturalists now have a chance of studying +their character from an entirely new standpoint, +and under entirely new conditions. It +would be well worth the while of any student<a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a> +of nature to devote an entire season in the Park +simply to study of bear life; never before has +such an opportunity been afforded.</p> + +<p>The incident mentioned on <a href="#Page_421">page 421</a> was +witnessed by Mr. W. Hallett Phillipps and +Col. John Hay. Since this incident occurred, +one bear has made a practice of going into the +kitchen of the Geyser Hotel, where he is fed +on pies. If given a chance, the bears will eat +the pigs that are kept in pens near the hotels; +but they have not shown any tendency to molest +the horses, or to interfere in any way with +the human beings around the hotels.</p> + +<p>These incidents, and the confidence which +the elk, deer and other animals in the Park +have come to feel in man, are interesting, for +they show how readily wild creatures may be +taught to look upon human beings as friends.</p> + + +<div class="signature smcap">Theodore Roosevelt,<br> +George Bird Grinnell.</div> + + + +<p class="date smcap">New York, August 1, 1895.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"> +<h1>Hunting in Many Lands</h1> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_1" id="CHAPTER_1"></a>Hunting in East Africa</h2> + + +<p>In the month of July, 1889, I was encamped +in the Taveta forest, 250 miles from the east +coast, and at the eastern foot of Mt. Kilimanjaro. +I was accompanied by my servant, +George Galvin, an American lad seventeen +years old, and had a following of 130 Zanzibaris. +My battery consisted of the following +weapons: one 8-bore smooth, using a cartridge +loaded with 10 drams of powder and a 2-ounce +spherical ball; one .577 and one .450 Express +rifle, and one 12-bore Paradox. All these were +made by Messrs. Holland & Holland. My +servant carried an old 12-bore rifle made by +Lang (intended to shoot 4-1/2 drams of powder, +but whose cartridges he recklessly loaded with +more than 7) and a .45-90 Winchester of the +model of 1886.</p> + +<p>Taveta forest has been often described by +pens far abler than mine, so I will not attempt +to do this. It is inhabited by a most friendly +tribe of savages, who at the time of my visit<a name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a> +to them possessed sufficient food to be able to +supply the wants of my caravan. I therefore +made it a base at which I could leave the major +part of my following, and from which I could +with comfort and safety venture forth on shooting +trips, accompanied by only a few men.</p> + +<p>The first of these excursions was made to +the shores of Lake Jipé, six hours' march from +Taveta, for the purpose of shooting hippos. I +took with me my whole battery and thirteen +men. This unlucky number perhaps influenced +my fortunes, for I returned to Taveta empty +handed and fever stricken, after a stay on the +shores of the lake lasting some days. However, +my experiences were interesting, if only +because they were in great measure the result +of ignorance. Up to this time my sporting experience +had dealt only with snipe and turkey +shooting in Florida, for on my road from the +coast, the little game seen was too wary to give +me a chance of putting a rifle to my shoulder.</p> + +<p>The shores of Lake Jipé, where I pitched +my tent, were quite flat and separated from the +open water of the lake by a wide belt of swamp +growth. I had brought with me, for the purpose +of constructing a raft, several bundles of +the stems of a large palm growing in Taveta.<a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a> +These were dry and as light as cork. In +a few hours' time my men constructed a raft, +fifteen feet in length and five feet in width. +On trial, it was found capable of supporting +two men, but even with this light load it sank +some inches below the surface of the water. I +fastened a deal box on the forward end as seat, +and instructed one of the men, who said he +understood boatman's work, to stand in the +stern and punt the craft along with a pole. +During the night my slumbers were constantly +disturbed by the deep, ominous grunting of +hippopotami, which, as if to show their contempt +for my prowess, chose a path to their +feeding grounds which led them within a few +yards of my camp. The night, though starlit, +was too dark for a shot, so I curbed my impatience +till the morning.</p> + +<p>As most people are aware, the day begins in +the tropics as nearly as possible at 6 o'clock +and lasts twelve hours. Two hours before +dawn I was up and fortifying myself against the +damp morning air with a good breakfast of +roast chicken, rice and coffee. My men, wrapped +in their thin cotton shirts, lay about the +fires on the damp ground, seemingly unmindful +of rheumatism and fever, and only desirous to<a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a> +sleep as long as possible. I awoke my crew at +a little after 5, and he, unassisted, launched the +raft. The swamp grass buoyed it up manfully, +so that it looked as if it disdained to touch the +yellow waters of the lake. When it had been +pushed along till the water was found to be two +feet deep, I had myself carried to the raft and +seated myself on the box. I was clad only in +a flannel shirt, and carried my .577 with ten +rounds of ammunition. As we slowly started +on our way, my men woke up one by one, and +shouted cheering words to us, such as, "Look +out for the crocodiles!" "If master dies, who'll +pay us!" These cries, added to the dismal +chill of the air and my boatman's only too apparent +dislike of his job, almost caused me to +turn back; but, of course, that was out of the +question.</p> + +<p>Half an hour from the shore found me on +the edge of the open water, and, as if to endorse +my undertaking, day began to break. That +sunrise! Opposite me the rough outlines of +the Ugucno Mountains, rising several thousand +feet, lost their shadows one by one, and far to +the right towered Mt. Kilimanjaro, nearly four +miles high, its snowy rounded top roseate with +the soft light of dawn. But in Africa at least<a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a> +one's higher sensibilities are dulled by the animal +side of his nature, and I fear I welcomed +the sun more for the warmth of its rays than +for the beautiful and fleeting vision it produced. +Then the hippos! While the sun was rising my +raft was not at rest, but was being propelled by +slow strong strokes toward the center of the +lake, and as the darkness lessened I saw the +surface of the lake dotted here and there by +spots, which soon resolved themselves into the +black, box-like heads of my game. They were +to all appearance motionless and appeared quite +unconscious or indifferent to the presence, in +their particular domain, of our strange craft +and its burden.</p> + +<p>I approached them steadily, going more +slowly as the water grew deeper, and more +time was needed for the pulling out and dipping +in of the pole. When, however, I had +reached a position some 150 yards from the +nearest group, five in number, they all with a +loud snort faced me. I kept on, despite the +ardent prayer of the boatman, and when within +100 yards, and upon seeing three of the hippos +disappear beneath the surface, I took careful +aim and fired at the nearest of the remaining +two. I could see the splash of my bullet as it<a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a> +skipped harmlessly along the surface of the +lake, and knew I had missed. At once all heads +in sight disappeared. There must have been +fifty in view when the sun rose. Presently, +one by one, they reappeared, and this time, as +if impelled by curiosity, came much closer than +before. I took aim at one not fifty yards away, +and could hear the thud of the bullet as it +struck. I thought, as the hippo at once disappeared, +that it was done for. I had not yet +learned that the brain of these animals is very +small, and that the only fatal shot is under +the ear.</p> + +<p>After this shot, as after my first, all heads +vanished, but this time I had to wait much +longer ere they ventured to show themselves. +When they did reappear, however, it was too +close for comfort. One great head, blinking +its small eyes and holding its little horselike +ears at attention, was not twenty feet away, +and another was still closer on my other side. +While hesitating at which to shoot I lost my +opportunity, for they both ducked simultaneously.</p> + +<p>I was riveted to my uncomfortable seat, and +I could hear my boatman murmuring "Allah!" +with fright, when slowly, but steadily, I felt the<a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a> +raft rise under my feet. Instinctively I remembered +I had but one .577 rifle, and hastened, +my hands trembling, to fasten it with a loose +rope's end to the raft. My boatman yelled +with terror, and at that fearful cry the raft +splashed back in the water and all was again +still. One of the hippos, either with his back +or head, must have come in contact with the +bottom of the raft as he rose to the surface. +How far he would have gone had not the +negro screamed I do not know, but as it was +it seemed as if we were being held in mid air +for many minutes. I fancy the poor brute was +almost as frightened as we were, for he did +not reappear near the raft.</p> + +<p>I now thought discretion the better part of +valor, and satisfied myself with shooting at the +animal from a somewhat greater distance. I hit +two more in the head and two—who showed +a good foot of their fat bodies above the water—in +the sides. None floated on the surface, +legs up, as I had been led to expect they would +do; but the men assured me that they never +come to the surface till sundown, no matter +what time of day they may have been shot. +This, needless to state, I afterward found, is +not true. My ammunition being exhausted,<a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a> +and the sun blazing hot, I returned to camp. +I awoke the next day feeling anything but +energetic; nevertheless, I set out to see what +game the land held ready for the hunter, dissatisfied +with his experiences on water. The +country on the eastern side of Lake Jipé is +almost flat, but is dotted here and there with +low steep gneiss hills, stretching in an indefinite +line parallel to the lake and some three miles +distant from it. I made my way toward these +hills. On the way I put up some very small +antelope, which ran in such an irregular manner +that they presented no mark to my unskilled +arm.</p> + +<p>We reached the hills, and I climbed one and +scanned the horizon with my glasses. Far to +the northwest I spied two black spots in a grassy +plain. I gave the glasses to my gun-bearer +and he at once said, "Rhinoceros!" I had +never seen these beasts except in a menagerie, +and the mention of the name brought me to my +feet eager to come to a closer acquaintance +with them. The wind blew toward me and the +game was too far for the need of caution, so I +walked rapidly in their direction. When I got +to within 250 yards, I could quite easily distinguish +the appearance of my quarry. They<a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a> +were lying down and apparently oblivious to +my approach—perhaps asleep. My gun-bearer +(a Swahili) now began to show an anxiety to +turn back. This desire is, in many cases, the +distinguishing trait of this race. On we went, +but now cautiously and silently. The grass +was about two feet high, so that by crawling +on hands and knees, one could conceal most of +his body. But this position is not a pleasant +one with a blazing sun on the back, rough soil +under the knees and a thirteen-pound rifle in +the hand.</p> + +<p>We got to within fifty yards. I looked back +for the negro with my .577. He was lying +flat on his stomach fifty yards to the rear. I +stood up to beckon him, but he did not move. +The rhinos did, and my attention was recalled +to them by hearing loud snorts, and, turning +my head, I saw the two beasts on their feet +facing me. I had never shot an 8-bore in my +life before, so it is not to be wondered at that +the shock of the recoil placed me on my back. +The animals were off before I could recover +my feet, and my second barrel was not discharged. +I ran after them, but the pace of a +rhino is much faster than it looks, and I soon +found pursuit useless. I returned to the place<a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a> +where they had lain, and on looking about +found traces of fresh blood. My gun-bearer, +as an explanation for his behavior, said that +rhinos were devils, and were not to be approached +closely. He said I must be possessed +of miraculous power, or they would have charged +and slain me. The next day, fever laid me +low, and, though the attack was slight, some +days elapsed before I could muster strength to +take me back to Taveta.</p> + +<p>After a few days' rest in camp—strengthened +by good food and spurred to fresh exertion by +the barren result of my first effort—I set out +again, accompanied by more men and in a different +direction.</p> + +<p>My faith in myself received a pleasant encouragement +the day before my departure. +My head man came to me and said trade was +at a standstill, and that the natives could not +be induced to bring food to sell. On asking +him why, I learned that the Taveta people +had found three dead hippos in Lake Jipé and +one rhino near its shores. Meat—a rare treat +to them, even when not quite fresh—filled their +minds and bodies, and they were proof even +against the most tempting beads and the brightest +cloths. I cannot say that I shared my<a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a> +head man's anxiety. The fact that I had not +labored altogether in vain, even though others +reaped the benefit of my efforts, filled me with +a certain satisfaction.</p> + +<p>A day's march from Taveta brought me to +the banks of an almost stagnant brook, where I +made camp. The country round about was a +plain studded with low hills, here thinly thatched +with short grass, and there shrouded with +thick bush, above which every now and then +rose a giant acacia. The morning after my +arrival, I set out from camp with my 8-bore in +my hands and hope in my heart. Not 200 +yards from my tent, I was startled by a snort +and then by the sight of two rhinos dashing +across my path some fifty yards away. This +time I did not succumb to my gun's recoil, but +had the doubtful satisfaction of seeing, from a +standing position, the animals disappear in the +bush. I made after them and found, to my +delight, a clear trail of fresh blood. Eagerly +pressing on, I was somewhat suddenly checked +in my career by almost stumbling over a rhino +apparently asleep on its side, with its head +toward me. Bang! went the 8-bore and down +I went. I was the only creature disturbed by +the shot, as the rhino had been dead some<a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a> +minutes—slain by my first shot; and my satisfaction +was complete when I found the hole +made by my bullet. My men shouted and sang +over this, the first fruits of my expedition, +and even at this late day I forgive myself for +the feeling of pride I then experienced. I +have a table at home made of a piece of this +animal's hide, and supported in part by one of +its horns.</p> + +<p>The next day I made an early start and +worked till 4 o'clock <span class="smcap">P. M.</span>, with no result. +Then, being some eight miles from camp, I +turned my face toward home. I had not gone +far, and had reached the outskirts of an almost +treeless savanna, when my gun-bearer brought +me to a halt by the word <i>mbogo</i>. This I knew +meant buffalo. I adjusted my glass and followed +the direction of my man's finger. There, +500 yards away, I saw a solitary buffalo feeding +slowly along toward two low bushes, but on +the further side of them. I did not think what +rifle I held (it was a .450), but dashed forward +at once. My gun-bearer was more thoughtful +and brought with him my <a name="tn_026"></a><!-- TN: Period added before "577"-->.577. We actually +ran. When within eighty or ninety yards of +the two bushes behind which the beast was +now hidden. I slackened pace and approached<a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a> +more cautiously. My heart was beating and +my hands trembling with the exertion of running +when I reached the nearest bush, and my +nerves were not exactly steadied by meeting +the vicious gaze of a large buffalo, who stood +not thirty feet on the other side. My gun-bearer +in an instant forced the .577 into my +hands, and I took aim at the shoulder of the +brute and fired, without knowing exactly what +I was doing. The smoke cleared, and there, +almost in his tracks, lay my first buffalo. His +ignorance of my noisy and careless approach +was apparently accounted for by his great age. +His hide was almost hairless and his horns +worn blunt with many encounters. He must +have been quite deaf and almost blind, or his +behavior cannot be accounted for. The noise +made by our approach, even with the favorable +wind, was sufficient to frighten any animal, or +at least put it on its guard.</p> + +<p>My men, who were dreadfully afraid of big +game of all sorts, when they saw the buffalo +lying dead, danced with joy and exultation. +They kicked the dead body and shouted curses +at it. Camp was distant a good two hours' +march, and the day was drawing to a close. +The hungry howl of the hyenas warned me<a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a> +that my prize would soon be taken from me +were it left unguarded. So piles of firewood +were made and the carcass surrounded by a +low wall of flames. I left three men in charge +and set out for camp. There was but little +light and my way lay through bits of forest +and much bush. Our progress was slow, and +my watch read 10:30 <span class="smcap">P. M.</span> before I reached +my tent and bed.</p> + +<p>The following day I set out for a shooting +ground distant two days' march from where I +had been camped. Several rivers lay in my +path and two tribes of natives. These natives +inhabit thick forest and are in terror of strangers, +as they are continually harassed by their +neighbors. When they saw the smallness of +my force, however, they endeavored to turn me +aside, but without success. Quiet and determination +generally win with these people. The +rivers gave me more trouble, as they were deep +and swift of current, and my friends, the natives, +had removed all bridges. But none of the +streams exceeded thirty feet in width, and an +hour's hard work with our axes always provided +us with a bridge.</p> + +<p>The second day from my former camp +brought me to the outskirts of the forest and<a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a> +the beginning of open country. I had hardly +made camp before three Swahili traders came +to me, and after the usual greetings began to +weep in chorus. Their story was a common one. +They had set out from Mombasa with twelve +others to trade for slaves and ivory with the +natives who inhabit the slopes of Kilimanjaro. +Fortune had favored them, and after +four months they were on their way homeward +with eighteen slaves and five good sized tusks. +The first day's journey was just over when they +were attacked by natives, three of their number +slain and all their property stolen. In +the darkness they could not distinguish what +natives attacked them; but their suspicions +rested on the very tribe among whom they had +spent the four months, and from whom they +had purchased the ivory and slaves. I gave +them a little cloth and some food, and a note +to my people at Taveta to help them on their +way. Of course, they were slave traders, and +as such ought possibly to have been beaten +from my camp. But it is undoubtedly a fact +that Mahomedans look on slave trading as a +perfectly legitimate occupation; and if people +are not breaking their own laws, I cannot see +that a stranger should treat them as brigands<a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a> +and refuse them the least aid when in distress. +I know that my point of view in this matter +has few supporters in civilization.</p> + +<p>The next day, after a short march, I pitched +my tent on the banks of a small stream, and +then set out to prospect for game. I found +nothing, but that night my slumbers were disturbed +by the splashing and grunting of a +herd of buffalo drinking.</p> + +<p>These sounds kept me awake, so that I was +enabled to make a very early start—setting out +with four men at 4:45. The natives had assured +me that the buffalo came to drink about +midnight, and then fed slowly back to their +favorite sleeping-places in the thick bush, +reaching there just about sunrise. By making +such an early start I hoped to come up with my +quarry in the open places on the edge of the +thick bush just before dawn, when the light is +sufficiently bright to enable one to see the foresight +of a rifle. Dew falls like rain in this part +of the world, and we had not gone fifty paces +in the long grass before we were soaking wet, +and dismally cold to boot. My guide, cheered +by the prospect of a good present, led us confidently +along the most intricate paths and +through the thickest bush. The moon over<a name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a>head, +which was in its fifteenth day, gave excellent +light. Every now and then some creature +would dash across our path, or stand snorting +fearfully till we had passed. These were probably +waterbuck and bushbuck. Toward half +past five the light of the moon paled before +the first glow of dawn, and we found ourselves +on the outskirts of a treeless prairie, dotted +here and there with bushes and covered with +short dry grass. Across this plain lay the bush +where my guide assured me the buffalo slept +during the day, and according to him at that +moment somewhere between me and this bush +wandered at least 100 buffalo. There was little +wind, and what there was came in gentle puffs +against our right cheeks. I made a sharp +detour to the left, walking quickly for some +twenty minutes. Then, believing ourselves to +be below the line of the buffalo, and therefore +free to advance in their direction, we did so.</p> + +<p>Just as the sun rose we had traversed the +plain and stood at the edge of what my men +called the <i>nyumba ya mbogo</i> (the buffalo's home). +We were too late. Fresh signs everywhere +showed that my guide had spoken the truth. +Now I questioned him as to the bush; how +thick it was, etc. At that my men fidgeted un<a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a>easily +and murmured "Mr. Dawnay." This +young Englishman had been killed by buffalo +in the bush but four months before. However, +two of my men volunteered to follow me, so I +set out on the track of the herd.</p> + +<p>This bush in which the buffalo live is not +more than ten feet high, is composed of a network +of branches and is covered with shiny +green leaves; it has no thorns. Here and +there one will meet with a stunted acacia, +which, as if to show its spite against its more +attractive neighbors, is clothed with nothing +but the sharpest thorns. The buffalo, from +constant wandering among the bush, have +formed a perfect maze of paths. These trails +are wide enough under foot, but meet just over +one's shoulders, so that it is impossible to +maintain an upright position. The paths run +in all directions, and therefore one cannot see +far ahead. Were it not for the fact that here +and there—often 200 feet apart, however—are +small open patches, it would be almost +useless to enter such a fastness. These open +places lure one on, as from their edges it is +often possible to get a good shot. Once +started, we took up the path which showed +the most and freshest spoor, and, stooping low,<a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a> +pressed on as swiftly and noiselessly as possible. +We had not gone far before we came upon +a small opening, from the center of which rose +an acacia not more than eight inches in thickness +of trunk and perhaps eighteen feet high. +It was forked at the height of a man's shoulder. +I carried the 8-bore, and was glad of an opportunity +to rest it in the convenient fork before +me. I had just done so, when crash! snort! +bellow! came several animals (presumably buffalo) +in our direction. One gun-bearer literally +flew up the tree against which I rested my rifle; +the other, regardless of consequences, hurled +his naked skin against another but smaller tree, +also thorny; both dropped their rifles. I stood +sheltered behind eight inches of acacia wood, +with my rifle pointed in front of me and still +resting in the fork of the tree. The noise of +the herd approached nearer and nearer, and my +nerves did not assume that steelly quality I had +imagined always resulted from a sudden danger. +Fly I could not, and the only tree climbable +was already occupied; so I stood still.</p> + +<p>Just as I looked for the appearance of the +beasts in the little opening in which I stood, the +crashing noise separated in two portions—each +passing under cover on either side of the open<a name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>ing. +I could see nothing, but my ears were +filled with the noise. The uproar ceased, and +I asked the negro in the tree what had happened. +He said, when he first climbed the tree +he could see the bushes in our front move like +the waves of the sea, and then, <i>Ham del illah</i>—praise +be to God—the buffalo turned on either +side and left our little opening safe. Had they +not turned, but charged straight at us, I fancy +I should have had a disagreeable moment. As +it was, I began to understand why buffalo shooting +in the bush has been always considered unsafe, +and began to regret that the road back to +the open plain was not a shorter one. We +reached it in safety, however, and, after a short +rest, set out up wind.</p> + +<p>I got a hartbeest and an mpallah before +noon, and then, satisfied with my day, returned +to camp. By 4 <span class="smcap">P. M.</span> my men had brought in +all the meat, and soon the little camp was filled +with strips of fresh meat hanging on ropes of +twisted bark. The next day we exchanged the +meat for flour, beans, pumpkins and Indian +corn. I remained in this camp three more days +and then returned to Taveta. Each one of +these days I attempted to get a shot at buffalo, +but never managed it. On one occasion I<a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a> +caught a glimpse of two of these animals in +the open, but they were too wary to allow me +to approach them.</p> + +<p>When I reached Taveta, I found a capital +camp had been built during my absence, and +that a food supply had been laid in sufficient +for several weeks. Shortly after my arrival I +was startled by the reports of many rifles, and +soon was delighted to grasp the hands of two +compatriots—Dr. Abbott and Mr. Stevens. +They had just returned from a shooting journey +in Masai land, and reported game plenty +and natives not troublesome. My intention +was then formed to circumnavigate Mt. Kilimanjaro, +pass over the yet untried shooting +grounds and then to return to the coast.</p> + +<p>I left five men in camp at Taveta in charge +of most of my goods, and, taking 118 men with +me, set out into Masai land. Even at this +late date (1895) the Masai are reckoned dangerous +customers. Up to 1889 but five European +caravans had entered their territory, and all +but the last—that of Dr. Abbott—had reported +difficulties with the natives. My head man, a +capital fellow, had had no experience with these +people, and did not look forward with pleasure +to making their acquaintance; but he received<a name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a> +orders to prepare for a start with apparent +cheerfulness. We carried with us one ton of +beans and dried bananas as food supply. This +was sufficient for a few weeks, but laid me +under the necessity of doing some successful +shooting, should I carry out my plan of campaign. +Just on the borders of Masai land live +the Useri people, who inhabit the northeast +slopes of Kilimanjaro. We stopped a day or +two with them to increase our food supply, and +while the trading was going on I descended to +the plain in search of sport.</p> + +<p>I left camp at dawn and it was not till noon +that I saw game. Then I discovered three +rhinos; two together lying down, and one solitary, +nearly 500 yards away from the others. +The two lying down were nearest me, but were +apparently unapproachable, owing to absolute +lack of cover. The little plain they had chosen +for their nap was as flat as a billiard table and +quite bare of grass. The wind blew steadily +from them and whispered me to try my luck, so +I crawled cautiously toward them. When I got +to within 150 yards, one of the beasts rose and +sniffed anxiously about and then lay down again. +The rhinoceros is nearly blind when in the bright +sun—at night it can see like an owl. I kept on,<a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a> +and when within 100 yards rose to my knees +and fired one barrel of my .577. The rhinos +leapt to their feet and charged straight at me. +"Shall I load the other barrel or trust to only +one?" This thought ran through my mind, +but the speed of the animals' approach gave +me no time to reply to it. My gun-bearer was +making excellent time across the plain toward +a group of trees, so I could make no use of the +8-bore. The beasts came on side by side, increasing +their speed and snorting like steam +engines as they ran. They were disagreeably +close when I fired my second barrel and rose +to my feet to bolt to one side. As I rose they +swerved to the left and passed not twenty feet +from me, apparently blind to my whereabouts. +I must have hit one with my second shot, for +they were too close to permit a miss. Perhaps +that shot turned them. Be that as it may, I +felt that I had had a narrow escape.</p> + +<p>When these rhinos had quite disappeared, +my faithful gun-bearer returned, and smilingly +congratulated me on what he considered my +good fortune. He then called my attention to +the fact that rhinoceros number three was still +in sight, and apparently undisturbed by what +had happened to his friends. Between the<a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a> +beast and me, stretched an open plain for some +350 yards, then came three or four small trees, +and then from these trees rose a semi-circular +hill or rather ridge, on the crest of which stood +the rhino. I made for the trees, and, distrusting +my gun-bearer, took from him the .577 and +placed it near one of them. Then, telling him +to retire to a comfortable spot, I advanced with +my 8-bore up the hill toward my game. The +soil was soft as powder, so my footsteps made +no noise. Cover, with the exception of a small +skeleton bush, but fifty yards below the rhino, +there was none. I reached the bush and knelt +down behind it. The rhino was standing broadside +on, motionless and apparently asleep. I +rose and fired, and saw that I had aimed true, +when the animal wheeled round and round in +his track. I fired again, and he then stood still, +facing me. I had one cartridge in my pocket +and slipped it in the gun. As I raised the +weapon to my shoulder, down the hill came my +enemy. His pace was slow and I could see +that he limped. The impetus given him by +the descent kept him going, and his speed +seemed to increase. I fired straight at him and +then dropped behind the bush. He still came +on and in my direction; so I leapt to my feet,<a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a> +and, losing my head, ran straight away in front +of him. I should have run to one side and +then up the hill. What was my horror, when +pounding away at a good gait, not more than +fifty feet in front of the snorting rhino, to find +myself hurled to the ground, having twisted +my ankle. I thought all was over, when I had +the instinct to roll to one side and then scramble +to my feet. The beast passed on. When +he reached the bottom of the hill his pace +slackened to a walk, and I returned to where I +had left my .577 and killed him at my leisure. +I found the 8-bore bullet had shattered his off +hind leg, and that my second shot had penetrated +his lungs. I had left the few men I had +brought with me on a neighboring hill when I +had first caught sight of the rhinos, and now +sent for them. Not liking to waste the meat, +I sent to camp for twenty porters to carry it +back. I reached camp that night at 12:30 <span class="smcap">A. M.</span>, +feeling quite worn out.</p> + +<p>After a day's rest we marched to Tok-i-Tok, +the frontier of Masai land. This place is at +certain seasons of the year the pasture ground +of one of the worst bands of Masai. I found +it nearly deserted. The Masai I met said their +brethren were all gone on a war raid, and that<a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a> +this was the only reason why I was permitted +to enter the country. I told them that I had +come for the purpose of sport, and hoped to +kill much game in their country. This, however, +did not appear to interest them, as the +Masai never eat the flesh of game. Nor do +they hunt any, with the exception of buffalo, +whose hide they use for shields. I told them +I was their friend and hoped for peace; but, +on the other hand, was prepared for war +should they attack me.</p> + +<p>From Tok-i-Tok we marched in a leisurely +manner to a place whose name means in English +"guinea fowl camp." In this case it was +a misnomer, for we were not so fortunate as +to see one of these birds during our stay of +several days. At this place we were visited by +some fifty Masai warriors, who on the receipt +of a small present danced and went away. The +water at guinea fowl camp consisted of a spring +which rises from the sandy soil and flows a few +hundred yards, and then disappears into the +earth. This is the only drinking-place for several +miles, so it is frequented by large numbers +and many varieties of game. At one time +I have seen hartbeest, wildbeest, grantii, mpallah, +Thomson's oryx, giraffes and rhinoceros.<a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a> +We supported the caravan on meat. I used +only the .450 Express; but my servant, George +Galvin, who used the Winchester, did better +execution with his weapon than I with mine.</p> + +<p>Here, for the first and last time in my African +experiences, we had a drive. Our camp +was pitched on a low escarpment, at the bottom +of which, and some 300 feet away, lay the +water. The escarpment ran east and west, and +extended beyond the camp some 500 yards, +where it ended abruptly in a cliff forty or fifty +feet high. Some of my men, who were at the +end of the escarpment gathering wood, came +running into camp and said that great numbers +of game were coming toward the water. +I took my servant and we ran to the end of +the escarpment, where a sight thrilling indeed +to the sportsman met our eyes. First came +two or three hundred wildbeest in a solid +mass; then four or five smaller herds, numbering +perhaps forty each, of hartbeest; then +two herds, one of mpallah and one of grantii. +There must have been 500 head in the lot. +They were approaching in a slow, hesitating +manner, as these antelope always do approach +water, especially when going down wind.</p> + +<p>Our cover was perfect and the wind blowing<a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a> +steadily in our direction. I decided, knowing +that they were making for the water, and to +reach it must pass close under where we lay +concealed, to allow a certain number of them to +pass before we opened fire. This plan worked +perfectly. The animals in front slackened +pace when they came to within fifty yards of +us, and those behind pressed on and mingled +with those in front. The effect to the eye was +charming. The bright tan-colored skins of the +hartbeest shone out in pleasing contrast to the +dark gray wildbeest. Had I not been so +young, and filled with youth's thirst for blood, +I should have been a harmless spectator of this +beautiful procession. But this was not to be. +On catching sight of the water, the animals +quickened their pace, and in a moment nearly +half of the mass had passed our hiding-place. +A silent signal, and the .450 and the Winchester, +fired in quick succession, changed this +peaceful scene into one of consternation and +slaughter. Startled out of their senses, the +beasts at first halted in their tracks, and then +wheeling, as if at word of command, they +dashed rapidly up wind—those in the rear receiving +a second volley as they galloped by. +When the dust cleared away, we saw lying<a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a> +on the ground below us four animals—two +hartbeest and two wildbeest. I am afraid that +many of those who escaped carried away with +them proofs of their temerity and our bad +marksmanship.</p> + +<p>Ngiri, our next camp, is a large swamp, surrounded +first by masses of tall cane and then +by a beautiful though narrow strip of forest +composed of tall acacias. It was at this place, +in the thick bush which stretches from the +swamp almost to the base of Kilimanjaro, that +the Hon. Guy Dawnay, an English sportsman, +had met his death by the horns of a buffalo +but four months before. My tent was pitched +within twenty paces of his grave and just under +a large acacia, which serves as his monument, +upon whose bark is cut in deep characters +the name of the victim and the date of his +mishap.</p> + +<p>Here we made a strong zariba of thorns, as +we had heard we should meet a large force of +Masai in this neighborhood. I stopped ten +days at Ngiri, and, with the exception of one +adventure hardly worth relating, had no difficulty +with the Masai. Undoubtedly I was +very fortunate in finding the large majority of +the Masai warriors, inhabiting the country<a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a> +through which I passed, absent from their +homes. But at the same time I venture to +think that the ferocity of these people has been +much overrated, especially in regard to Europeans; +for the force at my disposal was not +numerous enough to overawe them had they +been evilly disposed.</p> + +<p>One morning, after I had been some days at +Ngiri, I set out with twenty men to procure +meat for the camp. The sun had not yet risen, +and I was pursuing my way close to the belt of +reeds which surrounds the swamp, when I saw +in the dim light a black object standing close +to the reeds. My men said it was a hippo, but +as I drew nearer I could distinguish the outlines +of a gigantic buffalo, broadside on and +facing from the swamp. When I got to within +what I afterwards found by pacing it off to +be 103 paces, I raised my .577 to my shoulder, +and, taking careful aim at the brute's shoulder, +fired. When the smoke cleared away there +was nothing in sight. Knowing the danger of +approaching these animals when wounded, I +waited until the sun rose, and then cautiously +approached the spot. The early rays of the +sun witnessed the last breathings of one of the +biggest buffaloes ever shot in Africa. Its head<a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a> +is now in the Smithsonian Institute at Washington, +and, according to the measurement +made by Mr. Rowland Ward, Piccadilly, London, +it ranks among the first five heads ever +set up by him.</p> + +<p>After sending the head, skin and meat back +to camp, I continued my way along the shore +of the swamp. The day had begun well and +I hardly hoped for any further sport, but I was +pleasantly disappointed.</p> + +<p>Toward 11 o'clock I entered a tall acacia +forest, and had not proceeded far in it before +my steps were arrested by the sight of three +elephants, lying down not 100 yards from me. +They got our wind at once, and were up and +off before I could get a shot. I left all my men +but one gun-bearer on the outskirts of the forest +and followed upon the trail of the elephant. +I had not gone fifteen minutes before I had +traversed the forest, and entered the thick and +almost impenetrable bush beyond it. And +hardly had I forced my way a few paces into +this bush, when a sight met my eyes which +made me stop and think. Sixty yards away, +his head towering above the surrounding bush, +stood a monstrous tusker. His trunk was +curled over his back in the act of sprinkling<a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a> +dust over his shoulders. His tusks gleamed +white and beautiful. He lowered his head, +and I could but just see the outline of his +skull and the tips of his ears. This time my +gun-bearer did not run. The sight of the ivory +stirred in him a feeling, which, in a Swahili, +often conquers fear—cupidity. I raised some +dust in my hand and threw it in the air, to see +which way the wind blew. It was favorable. +Then beckoning my gun-bearer, I moved forward +at a slight angle, so as to come opposite +the brute's shoulder. I had gone but a few +steps when the bush opened and I got a good +sight of his head and shoulder. He was apparently +unconscious of our presence and was +lazily flapping his ears against his sides. Each +time he did this, a cloud of dust arose, and a +sound like the tap of a bass drum broke the +stillness. I fired my .577 at the outer edge of +his ear while it was lying for an instant against +his side. A crash of bush, then silence, and no +elephant in sight. I began to think that I had +been successful, but the sharper senses of the +negro enabled him to know the contrary. His +teeth chattered, and for a moment he was motionless +with terror. Then he pointed silently +to his left. I stooped and looked under the<a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a> +bush. Not twenty feet away was a sight which +made me share the feelings of my gun-bearer. +The elephant was the picture of rage; his forelegs +stretched out in front of him, his trunk +curled high in the air, and his ears lying back +along his neck. I seized my 8-bore and took +aim at his foreward knee, but before I could +fire, he was at us. I jumped to one side and +gave him a two-ounce ball in the shoulder, +which apparently decided him on retreat. The +bush was so thick that in a moment he was out +of sight. I followed him for some time, but +saw no more of him. His trail mingled with +that of a large herd, which, after remaining together +for some time, apparently separated in +several directions. The day was blazing hot, +and I was in the midst of a pathless bush, far +away from my twenty men.</p> + +<p>By 2 <span class="smcap">P. M.</span>, I had come up with them again +and turned my face toward camp. On the way +thither, I killed two zebras, a waterbuck and a +Thomsonii. By the time the meat was cut up +and packed on my men's heads the sun had set. +The moon was magnificently bright and served +to light our road. For one mile our way led +across a perfectly level plain. This plain was +covered with a kind of salt as white as snow,<a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a> +and with the bright moon every object was +as easily distinguished as by day. The fresh +meat proved an awkward load for my men, and +we frequently were forced to stop while one +or the other re-arranged the mass he carried. +They were very cheery about it, however, and +kept shouting to one another how much they +would enjoy the morrow's feast. Their shouts +were answered by the mocking wails of many +hyenas, who hovered on our flanks and rear +like a pursuing enemy. I shot two of these +beasts, which kept their friends busy for a while, +and enabled us to pursue our way in peace.</p> + +<p>This white plain reaches nearly to the shores +of Ngiri Swamp on the north, and to the +east it is bounded by a wall of densely thick +bush. We had approached to within 400 +yards of the point where the line of bush joins +the swamp, when I noticed a small herd of +wildbeest walking slowly toward us, coming +from the edge of the swamp. A few moments +later, a cry escaped from my gun-bearer, who +grasped my arm and whispered eagerly, <i>simba</i>. +This means lion. He pointed to the wall of +bush, and near it, crawling on its belly toward +the wildbeest, was the form of a lion. I +knelt down and raised the night sight of my<a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a> +.450, and fired at the moving form. The white +soil and the bright moon actually enabled me +to distinguish the yellow color of its skin. A +loud growl answered the report of my rifle, and +I could see the white salt of the plain fly as +the lion ran round and round in a circle, like a +kitten after its tail. I fired my second barrel +and the lion disappeared. The wildbeest had +made off at the first shot. I tried, in the +eagerness of youth, to follow the lion in the +bush; but soon common sense came to my +rescue, and warned me that in this dark growth +the chances were decidedly in favor of the +lion's getting me, and so gave up the chase. +Now, if I had only waited till the great cat +had got one of the wildbeest, I feel pretty +sure I should have been able to dispose of it +at my leisure. When I returned to camp, I +ungratefully lost sight of the good luck I had +had, and gnashed my teeth at the thought +that I had missed bringing home a lion and +an elephant. I was not destined to see a lion +again on this journey, but my annoyance at +my ill fortune was often whetted by hearing +them roar.</p> + +<p>However, by good luck and by George's +help, I succeeded in securing one elephant.<a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a> +The story of how this happened shall be the +last hunting adventure recorded in this article. +We had left Ngiri and were camped at the +next water, some ten miles to the west. I had +been out after giraffes and had not been unsuccessful, +and therefore had reached camp in +high good humor, when George came to me +and said things were going badly in camp—that +the men had decided to desert me should +I try to push further on into the country; and +that both head men seemed to think further +progress was useless with the men in such +temper. I was puzzled what to do, but wasted +no time about making up my mind to do something. +I went into the tent and called the +two head men to me. After a little delay, they +came, greeted me solemnly and at a motion +from me crouched on their hams. There is +but little use in allowing a negro to state a +grievance, particularly if you know it is an +imaginary one. The mere act of putting their +fancied wrongs into words magnifies them in +their own minds, and renders them less likely +to listen to reason. My knowledge of Swahili +at this time did not permit me to address them +in their own language, so I spoke to them in +English, knowing that they understood at least<a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a> +a few words of that tongue. I told them that +I was determined to push on; that I knew +that porters were like sheep and were perfectly +under the control of the head men; consequently, +should anything happen, I would +know on whom to fix the blame. I repeated +this several times, and emphasized it with +dreadful threats, then motioned for them to +leave the tent. I cannot say that I passed a +comfortable night. Instead of songs and +laughter, an ominous stillness reigned in the +camp, and, though my words had been brave, +I knew that I was entirely at the mercy of +the men.</p> + +<p>Before dawn we were under way, keeping a +strict watch for any signs of mutiny. But, +though the men were sullen, they showed no +signs of turning back. Our road lay over a +wide plain, everywhere covered thickly with +lava, the aspect of which was arid in the +extreme.</p> + +<p>No more green buffalo bush, no more acacias, +tall and beautiful, but in their place rose +columns of dust, whirled hither and thither by +the vagrant wind. Two of my men had been +over this part of the road before, but they professed +to be ignorant of the whereabouts of<a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a> +the next water place. Any hesitation on my +part would have been the signal for a general +retreat, so there was nothing for it but to assume +a look of the utmost indifference, and to +assure them calmly that we should find water. +At noon the appearance of the country had +not changed. My men, who had incautiously +neglected to fill their water bottles in the +morning, were beginning to show signs of +distress.</p> + +<p>Suddenly my gun-bearer, pointing to the +left, showed me two herds of elephants approaching +us. The larger herd, composed +principally of bulls, was nearer to us, and +probably got our wind; for they at once +turned sharply to their right and increased +their pace. The other herd moved on undisturbed. +I halted the caravan, told the men +to sit down and went forward to meet the elephants, +with my servant and two gun-bearers. +I carried a .577, my servant carried the old +12-bore by Lang, his cartridges crammed to +the muzzle with powder. We were careful +to avoid giving the elephants our wind, so we +advanced parallel to them, but in a direction +opposite to that in which they were going. As +they passed us we crouched, and they seemed<a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a> +unconscious of our presence. They went about +400 yards past us, and then halted at right +angles to the route they had been pursuing. +There were five elephants in this herd—four +large, and one small one, bringing up the rear. +Some 60 yards on their right flank was a small +skeleton bush, and, making a slight detour, we +directed our course toward that. The leading +animal was the largest, so I decided to devote +our attention to that one. I told George to +fire at the leg and I would try for the heart. +We fired simultaneously, George missing and +my shot taking effect altogether too high.</p> + +<p>Two things resulted from the discharge of +our rifles: the gun-bearers bolted with their +weapons and the elephants charged toward us +in line of battle. As far as I can calculate, an +elephant at full speed moves 100 yards in +about ten seconds, so my readers can judge +how much time elapsed before the elephants +were upon us. We fired again. My shot did +no execution, but George, who had remained +in a kneeling position, broke the off foreleg of +the leading animal at the knee. It fell, and +the others at once stopped. We then made +off, and watched from a little distance a most +interesting sight.<a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a></p> + +<p>The condition of the wounded elephant +seemed to be known to the others, for they +crowded about her and apparently offered her +assistance. She placed her trunk on the back +of one standing in front of her and raised herself +to her feet, assisted by those standing +around. They actually moved her for some +distance, but soon got tired of their kindly +efforts. We fired several shots at them, which +only had the effect of making two of the band +charge in our direction and then return to +their stricken comrade. Cover there was none, +and with our bad marksmanship it would have +been (to say the least) brutal to blaze away +at the gallant little herd. Besides, cries of +"water!" "water!" were heard coming from my +thirsty caravan. So there was nothing for it +but to leave the elephant, take the people to +water, if we could find it, and then return and +put the wounded animal out of its misery.</p> + +<p>An hour and a half later we reached water, +beautiful and clear, welling up from the side +of a small hill. This is called Masimani. On +reaching the water, all signs of discontent +among my people vanished, and those among +them who were not Mahomedans, and therefore +had no scruples about eating elephant<a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a> +meat, raised a cheerful cry of <i>tembo tamu</i>—elephant +is sweet. I did not need a second +hint, but returned, and, finding the poor elephant +deserted by its companions, put it out of +its misery. It was a cow with a fine pair of +tusks. The sun was setting, and my men, +knowing that activity was the only means of +saving their beloved elephant meat from +hyenas, attacked the body with fury—some +with axes, others with knives and one or two +with sword bayonets. It was a terrible sight, +and I was glad to leave them at it and return +to camp, well satisfied with my day's work.</p> + +<p>From Masimani, for the next four days, the +road had never been trodden by even an Arab +caravan. I had no idea of the whereabouts +of water, nor had my men; but, having made a +success of the first day's march, the men followed +me cheerfully, believing me possessed +of magic power and certain to lead them over +a well-watered path. A kind providence did +actually bring us to water each night. The +country was so dry that it was absolutely +deserted by the inhabitants, the Masai, and +great was the surprise of the Kibonoto people +when we reached there on the fourth day. +They thought that we had dropped from the<a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a> +clouds, and said there could not have been +any water over the road we had just come. +These Kibonoto people had never been visited +by an European, but received us kindly. The +people of Kibonoto are the westernmost inhabitants +on the slopes of Kilimanjaro.</p> + +<p>From there to Taveta our road was an easy +one, lying through friendly peoples. After a +brief rest at Taveta, I returned to the coast, +reaching Zanzibar a little over six months +after I had set out from it.</p> + +<p>Perhaps a word about the climate of the +part of the country through which I passed +will not be amiss. Both my servant and myself +suffered from fever, but not to any serious +extent. If a sedentary life is avoided—and +this is an easy matter while on a journey—if +one avoids morning dews and evening damps, +and protects his head and the back of his neck +from the sun, I do not think the climate of +East Africa would be hurtful to any ordinarily +healthy person. For my part, I do not think +either my servant or myself have suffered any +permanent ill effects from our venture; and +yet the ages of twenty-one and seventeen are +not those best suited for travels in the tropics.</p> + +<p class="signature2">W. A. Chanler.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a> +<a name="CHAPTER_2" id="CHAPTER_2"></a> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:399px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="mountain_sheep"></a> + +<img src="images/i004.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="399" height="700"> +<p class="caption">A MOUNTAIN SHEEP.</p></div> + +<h2>To the Gulf of Cortez</h2> + + +<p>About a year ago, my brother, who is a +very sagacious physician, advised me to take +the fresh liver of a mountain sheep for certain +nervous symptoms which were troublesome. +None of the local druggists could fill the prescription, +and so it was decided that I should +seek the materials in person. With me went +my friend J. B., the pearl of companions, and +we began the campaign by outfitting at San +Diego, with a view to exploring the resources +of the sister republic in the peninsula of +Lower California. Lower California is very +different from Southern California. The latter +is—well, a paradise, or something of that +kind, if you believe the inhabitants, of whom +I am an humble fraction. The former is what +you may please to think.</p> + +<p>At San Diego we got a man, a wagon, four +mules and the needed provisions and kitchen—all +hired at reasonable rates, except the +provisions and kitchen, which we bought.<a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a> +Then we tried to get a decent map, but +were foiled. The Mexican explorer will find +the maps of that country a source of curious +interest. Many of them are large and elaborately +mounted on cloth, spreading to a great +distance when unfolded. The political divisions +are marked with a tropical profusion of +bright colors, which is very fit. A similar +sense of fitness and beauty leads the designer +to insert mountain ranges, rivers and towns +where they best please the eye, and I have +had occasion to consult a map which showed +purely ideal rivers flowing across a region +where nature had put the divide of the highest +range in the State.</p> + +<p>My furniture contained a hundred cartridges, +a belt I always carry, given by a friend, with a +bear's head on the buckle (a belt which has +held, before I got it, more fatal bullets than +any other west of the Rockies), and my usual +rifle. J. B. prepared himself in a similar way, +except the belt.</p> + +<p>Starting south from San Diego, we crossed +the line at Tia Juana, and spent an unhappy +day waiting on the custom house officials. +They, however, did their duty in a courteous +manner, and we, with a bundle of stamped<a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a> +papers, went on. The only duties we paid +were those levied on our provisions. The +team and wagon were entered free under a +prospector's license for thirty days, and an +obliging stableman signed the necessary bond.</p> + +<p>The main difficulty in traveling in Lower +California lies in the fact that you can get +no feed for your animals. From Tia Juana +east to Tecate, where you find half a dozen +hovels, there is hardly a house and not a +spear of grass for thirty miles. At Tecate +there is a little nibbling. Thence south for +twenty-five miles we went to the Agua Hechicera, +or witching water; thence east twenty-five +miles more to Juarez, always without +grass; thence south to the ranch house of the +Hansen ranch, at El Rayo, twenty-five miles +more. There, at last, was a little grass, but +after passing that point we camped at Agua +Blanca, and were again without grass for +thirty miles to the Trinidad Valley, which +once had a little grass, now eaten clean. +Fortunately we were able to buy hay at +Tia Juana, and took some grain. Fortunately, +also, we found some corn for sale at +Juarez. So, with constant graining, a little +hay and a supply of grass, either absent or<a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a> +contemptible, we managed to pull the stock +through.</p> + +<p>Besides our four hired mules there was another, +belonging to our man, Oscar, which we +towed behind to pack later. The animal was +small in size, but pulled back from 200 pounds +to a ton at every step. Its sex was female, but +its name was Lazarus, for the overwhelming +necessity of naming animals of the ass tribe +either Lazarus or Balaam tramples on all distinctions +of mere sex. We started, prepared +for a possible, though improbable, season of +rain; but we did not count on extreme cold, +yet the first night out the water in our bucket +froze, and almost every night it froze from a +mere skin to several inches thick. To give an +idea of the country, I will transcribe from a +brief diary a few descriptions. Starting from +Tia Juana, we drove or packed for nearly 200 +miles in a southeasterly direction, until we +finally sighted the Gulf and the mountains of +Sonora in the distance. At first our road lay +through low mountains, in valleys abounding +in cholla cactus. From Tecate southward, +the country was rolling and clotted with +brushwood, until you reach Juarez. Juarez +is an abandoned, or almost abandoned, placer<a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a> +camp. Here, amid the countless pits of the +miners, the piñons begin, and then, after a +short distance, the pine barrens stretch for +forty miles. Beyond again you pass into hills +of low brush, and plains covered with sage and +buckweed, until finally you cross a divide into +the broad basin of the Trinidad Valley. This +is a depression some twenty miles long and +perhaps five miles wide on the average, with a +hot spring and a house at the southwestern +end, walled on the southeast by the grim +frowning rampart of the San Pedro Martir +range, and on the other sides by mountains of +lesser height, but equal desolation.</p> + +<p>We had intended at first to strike for the +Cocopah range, near the mouth of the Colorado +River, and there do our hunting. Several +reasons induced us to change our plan and +make for the Hansen ranch, where deer were +said to be plenty and sheep not distant; so we +turned from Tecate southward, made one dry +camp and one camp near Juarez, and on the +fifth day of our journeying reached a long +meadow, called the Bajio Largo, on the Hansen +ranch. We turned from the road and followed +the narrow park-like opening for four +miles, camping in high pines, with water near,<a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a> +and enough remnants of grass to amuse the +animals. This region of pine barrens occurs +at quite an elevation, and the nights were +cold. The granite core of the country crops +out all along in low broken hills, the intervening +mesas consisting of granite sand and +gravel, and bearing beside the pines a good +deal of brush. Thickets of manzanita twisted +their blood-colored trunks over the ground, +and the tawny stems of the red-shank covered +the country for miles. The red-shank is a lovely +shrub, growing about six or eight feet high, +with broom-like foliage of a yellowish green, +possessing great fragrance. If you simply +smell the uncrushed shoots, they give a faint +perfume, somewhat suggestive of violets; and +if you crush the leaves you get a more pungent +odor, sweet and a little smoky. Also, +the gnarled roots of the red-shank make an +excellent cooking fire, if you can wait a few +hours to have them burn to coals. All things +considered, the pine barren country is very +attractive, and if there were grass, water and +game, it would be a fine place for a hunter.</p> + +<p>From our camp at Bajio Largo, J. B. and I +went hunting for deer, which were said to be +plentiful. We hunted from early morning till<a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a> +noon, seeing only one little fellow, about the +size of a jack rabbit, scuttle off in the brush. +Then we decided to go home. This, however, +turned out to be a large business. The lofty +trees prevented our getting any extended +view, and the stony gulches resembled each +other to an annoying degree. At last even +the water seemed to flow the wrong way. So +we gave up the attempt to identify landmarks, +and, following our sense of direction and taking +our course from the sun, we finally came again +to the long meadow, and, traveling down that, +we came to camp. Here we violated all rules +by shooting at a mark—our excuse was that +we had decided to leave the vicinity without +further hunting; and, at all events, we spoiled +a sardine box, to Oscar's great admiration.</p> + +<p>In order to get a fair day's journey out of a +fair day, we had to rise at 4 or 5 o'clock. +Oscar once or twice borrowed my watch to +wake by, but the result was only that I had to +borrow J. B.'s watch to wake Oscar by; so I +afterwards retained the timepiece, and got up +early enough to start Oscar well on his duties.</p> + +<p>The question of fresh meat had now become +important. We left Bajio Largo and drove to +Hansen's Laguna, a shallow pond over a mile<a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a> +long, much haunted by ducks. Here we made +a bad mistake, driving six or eight miles into +the mountains, only to reach nowhere and be +forced to retrace our steps. Night, however, +found us at El Rayo, the Hansen ranch house, +and, as it turned out, the real base of our +hunting campaign. The Hansen ranch is an +extensive tract, named after an old Swede, who +brought a few cattle into the country years +ago. The cattle multiplied exceedingly, to the +number, indeed, of several thousand, and can +be seen at long range by the passer-by. They +are very wild and gaunt at present, and will +prance off among the rocks at a surprising +rate before a man can get within 200 yards of +them. Ex-Governor Ryerson now owns these +cattle, and his major-domo, Don Manuel Murillo, +a fine gray-haired veteran, learning that I +had known the Governor, gave me much +friendly advice, and sent his son to guide us +well on the road to the Trinidad Valley and +the sheep land. He also provided us with +potatoes and fresh meat, so that we lived +fatly thenceforth.</p> + +<p>Our track lay past an abandoned saw-mill, +built by the International Company. Thence +we were to go to Agua Blanca, the last water<a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a> +to be had on the road; for the next thirty +miles are dry. The saw-mill was built to +supply timber to the mining town of Alamo, +some twenty-five miles south. The camp is +now in an expiring state and needs no timber, +but is said to shelter some rough and violent +men. The road from the mill was deep +in sand, and our pace was slow. The darkness +was coming cold and fast when we finally +drove on to the water and halted to camp.</p> + +<p>Two men were there before us, with a saddle-horse +each, and no other apparent equipment. +When we arrived, the men were watering +their animals, and at once turned their +backs, so as not to be recognized. Then they +retired to the brush. We supped and staked +out the mules, and then sent Oscar to look up +our neighbors. Oscar went and shouted, but +got no answer, and could find no men. We +thought that our mules were in some danger, +and J. B., who is a yachtsman, proposed to +keep anchor watch. So Oscar remained awake +till midnight, when he awoke me and retired +freezing, saying that he had seen the enemy +prowling around. I took my gun and visited +the mules in rotation till 2:30. Then J. B. +awoke, chattering with cold, but determined,<a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a> +and kept faithful guard until 5, when we began +our day with a water-bucket frozen solid.</p> + +<p>All our property remained safe, and a distant +fire twinkling in the brush showed that +our neighbors were still there. After breakfast +Oscar again sought the hostile camp, and +finally found a scared and innocent Frenchman, +who cried out, on recognizing his visitor:</p> + +<p>"Holy Mary! I took you for American +robbers from the line, and I have lain awake +all night, watching my horses."</p> + +<p>From Agua Blanca we drove across the +Santa Catarina ranch, for the most part plain +and mesa, covered with greasewood and buckbrush. +This latter shrub looks much like sage, +except that its leaves are of a yellow-green +instead of a blue-green. It is said to furnish +the chief nutrition for stock on several great +ranches. Certainly there was no visible grass, +but buckbrush can hardly be fattening. Toward +night, we crossed the pass into the Trinidad +Valley and drove down a grade not steep +only, but sidelong, where the wagons both +went tobogganing down and slid rapidly toward +the gulch. The mules held well, however, +and before dark we were camped near +the hot spring at the house of Alvarez.<a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a></p> + +<p>Our friend, Don Manuel Murillo, had recommended +us both to Alvarez and to his sister, +Señora Paula, but both of these were absent. +Don Manuel had also urged us to get the +Indian Anastasio for a guide.</p> + +<p>"For heaven's sake," he said, "don't venture +without a guide. You may perish from thirst, +as others have done before you."</p> + +<p>We tried at first to hire burros and let our +mules rest, but the Indian who owned the +burros stated that his terms were "one burro, +one day, one dollar"—an impudent attempt at +robbery, which we resented.</p> + +<p>We interviewed Anastasio, however, who +said he would start at any moment; and, leaving +Oscar to guard the wagon, we packed two +mules, saddled two more for J. B. and myself, +and, giving Anastasio the tow-rope of a pack-mule, +we started after him. Anastasio was +the most interesting figure of the trip, and I +must be pardoned if I go into some detail +about him. He spoke some Spanish and +understood a good deal. When he did not +understand, he never stated that fact, but +either assumed a stony look or answered at +cross-purposes; so that we did not get to know +a great deal about each other for some time.<a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a></p> + +<p>He had, too, a lingering remnant of the +distrust of horses and mules that his ancestors +must have felt in Spanish times, and when +his pack-mule got a stone in her hoof, he +observed it with anxiety from a distance, but +could not summon resolution to meddle with +so serious a matter.</p> + +<p>Moreover his measure of distance was primitive. +I would ask, for instance, how many +miles it was to our next stop. He might say +three miles for an all-day journey of six times +that length, or he might tell you that we were +nine miles from a spot which we reached in +half an hour.</p> + +<p>I then substituted leagues for miles, thinking +that the Mexican usage would be more +familiar to him; but at last Anastasio said, +rather impatiently, that all this business of +leagues and miles was rather confusing and +outside of his experience. We would reach +the next water shortly before sunset, and that +was all the calculation he was accustomed to, +and quite close enough.</p> + +<p>Aside from his knowledge of Spanish, Anastasio +was indeed a fine representative of the +best of the stone age, and as we journeyed on, +one got an excellent idea of the life of the sav<a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>age +here in early times. About 3 o'clock in +the afternoon, we reached the only water spot +on the trail. Anastasio parted some withered +reeds, and, looking earnestly, said, "Dry." A +short distance further up, he repeated the +word, and yet again, till, at his fourth attempt, +he said, "Very little," and we camped. By +scraping away the mud and grass, we got a +small gravelly hole, and dipped out the slowly +seeping water, a cup at a time. We thus +managed to give each of the mules a little in +a pan, and to get a canteen full for cooking.</p> + +<p>Then I noticed Anastasio gathering wood, +which I thought at first was for general use, +but I found it was a private pile, to be used, so +to speak, for bedding. Anastasio did not take +the ax to secure his wood, but smashed off +mesquite branches with a rock or pulled out +some old root. He quite despised piñon and +juniper logs, saying they gave no heat—meaning, +probably, that they burned out too soon.</p> + +<p>We turned in soon after supper, and the +night was cold. Anastasio said he feared +snow. The reason for his fear was soon evident. +My bed was about twenty feet from +Anastasio's, and during the night I would turn +and watch him. He carried but one small<a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a> +blanket of about the texture of a gunny sack. +He lighted a long smouldering fire, stripped +himself naked, except a breech-clout, and, with +his back to the coals and his front protected +by his gauzy blanket, he slept until the cold +roused him, when he put on more wood and +slept again. I offered him four pairs of warm +horse blankets to sleep in, but that was not +the thing. He said that he needed to have +the fire strike him in the small of the back, +and that he slept in that way always. So +throughout the night, in my wakeful moments, +I saw the light reflected from his mahogany +person. Evidently snow or cold rain would be +disastrous to people who need a fire all night; +for, with no covering against the cold and with +fires extinguished by storm, they might easily +freeze to death.</p> + +<p>We were packed and marching at 7:30 next +morning, and to those who know the inwardness +of packing in winter, that statement means +a good deal. It means, for instance, that J. B. +got up, at my summons, long before dawn and +cooked a splendid breakfast, and that the +mules were caught and grained and saddled, +and the packs made and lashed, by the earliest +sun.<a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a></p> + +<p>J. B. was a wonder. He seemed to enjoy +giving his fellow mortals the best breakfasts +and suppers—for we never had any midday +meals—that our supplies could furnish. Always +rising at the first call, in the dark, sometimes +with an accompaniment of snow or rain, +he managed the commissariat to perfection.</p> + +<p>I in my humble way packed and saddled +and did other necessary work, and Anastasio +regarded us with benevolent curiosity, though +always ready to get wood or water or mules +when we asked him to do so.</p> + +<p>We were now approaching the true desert. +This term is not restricted to the broad level +sand wastes along the Gulf, but includes the +arid and waterless mountains adjacent, and +this must be borne in mind when the Mexicans +tell you that sheep are to be found in +the desert.</p> + +<p>We passed the last of the brushy hills, and, +crossing a small divide, came over slopes of +volcanic cinders to a little water spot with +dwarf willows and grass. This was our hunting +camp. The country through which our +route had lain heretofore was altogether granitic, +though one could see hills apparently of +stratified material in the distance. Toward<a name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a> +the desert, we met beds of conglomerate and +trachyte, and mountains covered with slide-rock, +ringing flint-like clinkers from some +great volcanic furnace. But doubtless some +accurate and industrious German has described +all this, in a work on the geology of +the peninsula, and to that valuable treatise +I will refer you for further facts.</p> + +<p>The vegetation had somewhat changed. +There were more cactuses, particularly the +fleshy kind called venaga, though I noticed +with surprise the absence of the great fruit-bearing +cactuses, the saguarro and pitaya, all +along our route. The Spanish daggers were +very numerous, as were also mescal plants, +both of these forming veritable thickets in +places.</p> + +<p>The venaga cactus is similar to the bisnaga, +found in other parts of Mexico, except +in the disposition and curvature of the thorns. +They are stumpy plants, growing from a foot +to three feet or so in height, and a foot or +more in diameter, like a thickset post. Those +of us who delighted in Mayne Reid's "Boy +Hunters" will remember how the adventurous +young men saved themselves from dying of +thirst by laying open these succulent cactuses<a name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a> +with their long hunting knives and drinking +the abundant juices. I have often and faithfully +tried to perform the same feat, out of +reverence for my heroes, but failed to find +anything juicier than, say, a raw turnip—by no +means satisfying as a drink. The venagas are +found on the mountains where sheep haunt, +with their hard prickly rinds broken and the +interior hollowed out, and Anastasio said that +the sheep do this by knocking holes in the +cactus with their horns and then eating the +inside.</p> + +<p>This cactus country makes the third variety +of wilderness encountered in the peninsula. +There are four: <a name="tn_075"></a><!-- TN: "First" changed to "first"-->first, and best, the pine +barrens; second, the brushy hills and plains, +covered with sage, greasewood and buckweed; +third, this spike-bearing volcanic region; and +fourth, the appalling desolation of the acknowledged +desert.</p> + +<p>The moment we had unloaded and watered +our animals, Anastasio and I set out to look +for deer. Anastasio wore the spotted and tattered +remnant of a frock-coat, once green, +given him by an Englishman, of whom I shall +say more later. He had guarachis, or sandals, +on his feet, bare legs, a breech-clout, and on<a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a> +his head a reddish bandanna handkerchief in +the last stages of decay; and as he peered +over some rock, glaring long and earnestly in +search of game, he reminded one of those lean +and wolfish Apaches that Remington draws in +a way so dramatic and so full of grim significance.</p> + +<p>Anastasio was fifty-one years old and had +no upper incisors, but the way he flung his +gaunt leathern shanks over those mountains +of volcanic clinkers, armed with the poisoned +bayonets of myriads of mescal, cactus and +Spanish dagger, was astonishing.</p> + +<p>I told him that I was not racing and that he +would scare the game. In fact, he did start +one little fellow, but he said he always saw +the game first, and for this day I was quite +powerless to hold him in; so I decided to +return to camp before dark. This disgusted +Anastasio greatly. "In this way we shall +never kill," said he. "We are going to suffer +from hunger." I assured him that we had +plentiful supplies, but he had come for meat. +Unbounded meat had been the chief incentive +for his trip, and hungry he was determined +to be.</p> + +<p>The next day J. B. set out early with the<a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a> +red man. I arranged camp, and two or three +hours later took what I supposed was a different +direction, but soon encountered the pair +returning. J. B. had a painful knee, and Anastasio +had started his racing tactics and kept +them up until J. B. was quite lame.</p> + +<p>The Indian reported that he had seen sheep. +J. B. had used the glass without finding them, +and then Anastasio had captured it and looked +through the wrong end, nodding and saying +he could count five, very big. This, I am +sorry to say, was false and affected on Anastasio's +part, and J. B. was skeptical about the +sheep altogether; but I knew how hard it was +to find distant game, when you don't know +exactly how it should appear. To reach the +supposed sheep, the mountain must be climbed +and the crest turned, for the wind permitted +no other course. J. B. did not feel up to the +task, and I directed him to camp. Anastasio +and I climbed for about four hours, and reached +a position whence his sheep would be visible. +He was now discontented because J. B. had +not lent him his gun. No request had been +made for the gun, to be sure, but I confess +that a request would have met with my earnest +opposition in any event. Evidently Anasta<a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>sio's +expectations of fresh meat were now so +dim as to cast serious shadows on my skill as a +hunter; but, resigning himself to the inevitable, +he crawled to the summit of the ridge for +a view. He stared long and said he could +make out one ewe lying down under a juniper. +I tried the glass. He was right. His unaided +sight seemed about equal in definition to my +field-glass. On this occasion he declined to +use the glass, even with some appearance of +disgust. We could get no nearer unseen, and, +though the distance was very great, I decided +to risk a shot.</p> + +<p>I fired, in fact, two or three shots at the +ewe, alarming her greatly, when from beneath +a cliff which lay below us a band streamed out. +Two big rams started off to the right. Anastasio +and I ran down a bit, and I tried a long +shot at the leading ram. The distance was +great, and the run had pumped me a little. I +missed. The second ram was still larger. He +stopped a moment at 150 yards and I dropped +him. Anastasio grunted satisfaction. I swung +to the left, where the rest of the band was +journeying, sighted at the shoulder of a young +ram and fired. The ball passed through my +intended victim, dropping him, and entered<a name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a> +the eye of a yearling ram who stood behind, +thus killing two rams at one shot—a most +unusual accident.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="rocky_and_polo_sheep"></a> + +<img src="images/i005.png" border="0" alt="" title="" width="700" height="693"> +<p class="caption">ROCKY MOUNTAIN AND POLO'S SHEEP, DRAWN TO SAME SCALE.</p></div> + + +<p>The rest of the band were now quite distant, +and, though I fired several shots, at Anastasio's +desire—he said he wanted a fat ewe—none +took effect.</p> + +<p>I cleaned the sheep and skinned out the big +head. Anastasio took one small ram entire +on his back, supporting it by a rope passed +over the top of his head, and started down +with it, while I followed after with the big +horns. It was 1 o'clock. The head might +have weighed thirty-five pounds fresh. It +grew to weigh 1,500 pounds before dark. +Stumbling down through the slide-rock, with +legs full of venomous prickers, I passed below +camp without noticing it, and was well on the +other side, when I thought I had gone about +far enough, and shouted. J. B.'s voice answered +across a small hill, and I discovered +that he had never reached camp at all, but +had found a water spot, and wisely decided +not to leave it without good reason.</p> + +<p>I scouted a bit to the west, but found unfamiliar +country, and, as the sun had set, we +were seemingly about to stay by that water all<a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a> +night, when I turned around and saw a pale +column of smoke rising above the crest of the +ridge against the evening sky.</p> + +<p>At once we marched around the ridge, and, +as we rose over the divide, we saw the whole +hillside flaming with signal fires. Our dear +old Anastasio had become alarmed and set fire +to fifteen or twenty dead mescals in different +places to guide us home. God bless a good +Indian!</p> + +<p>With vast content we prepared and ate a +luxurious supper. Anastasio, however, fearing +that he might be hungry in the night, impaled +all the ribs of one side of the ram on a +pole and planted it in a slanting position over +the fire. Thus he was enabled to put in his +time during his wakeful moments, and face +the prospect of a remote breakfast without +discouragement.</p> + +<p>The next day, I spent the morning in washing, +resting, and cutting spikes out of my legs. +Anastasio packed in the second small ram, +and ate ribs and slept. Then, in the afternoon, +we got the rest of the big fellow down. +Anastasio, to make his load lighter, smashed off +the shanks with a stone, although he carried +a knife in his belt—a striking trick of heredity.<a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a></p> + +<p>And then we talked. "The Trinidad Valley +is not my country," said Anastasio; "this +is my country. Yonder, under that red rock +on the mountain side, about five miles away, +there is a spring in the gulch on the edge of +the desert. I was born there, and lived there +twenty years with my father's family. Here +where your camp is"—about twenty feet square +of slide-rock level enough to stand on—"we +sowed crops. We scraped a hole between +the stones with our hands, put in squash +seeds, watered them by carrying water from +the spring in our hands and raised several +hills."</p> + +<p>So he went on, not in so connected a way, +but showing, bit by bit, his manner of life. +His tribe, which he called the Kil-ee-ou, must +have been very restricted in numbers at best. +His territory was a few leagues of desert, or +almost desert, mountains, every yard of which +he knew by heart, while just over the ridge +dwelt the Cocopahs, his mortal enemies. +Sometimes a score of men armed with bows +would start a tribal hunt for deer, though the +sheep were beyond their means of attack. +Sometimes they journeyed a few leagues to +the Gulf to eat mussels. We could see the<a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a> +great blue sheet and the leagues of salt incrustations +glimmering white on the hither +side, and at one spot on the horizon the blue +peak of some Sonora mountain rose out of the +seeming ocean.</p> + +<p>But a few deer and mussels and a half dozen +hills of squashes could not fill the abyss of the +Indian appetite. The stand-by was roasted +mescal. These plants grow in great numbers +in the country adjoining the desert, and at +every season there are some just right for +roasting. The Indians selected these and +cooked them for two or three days in a hole +in the ground, by a process called tatema, +similar in principle to a clam-bake. This +roasting converts the starchy leaves and +heart into a sugary mass, so that the resulting +food is something like a sweet fibrous +beet. The Indian's life really lay in gathering +and roasting mescal. And when a storm +prevented the necessary fires, the tribe passed +days, often many days, without food.</p> + +<p>So much for Anastasio's early life. A year +ago, he told us, he went hunting with two +Americans. One of them came from under +the earth, where there were six months of +night, and had passed two seas and been a<a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a> +month on the train. We supposed, from this, +that Anastasio had served as guide to an +Englishman, whose home he described at the +Antipodes. The six months of night were, +perhaps, represented by the London fogs, and, +if he passed a month on the train, he must +have come by the Southern Pacific. The +Englishman had presented Anastasio with the +very undesirable gaberdine I have before described. +Anastasio said that the Englishman +shot quail in the head every time with his +rifle, but on meeting a band of eleven sheep +he fired nine shots without hitting. Anastasio +said he trembled, but I incline to think +that the Indian had run him out of breath. +Finally the Englishman secured two ewes and +a lamb, after three weeks of hunting.</p> + +<p>Look at my fortune! A single day on the +mountain, and three rams to show for it; one +with horns that are an abiding splendor—sixteen +inches around the base and forty-two +inches on the outer sweep.</p> + +<p>I thought at first that the horns made more +than one complete spiral, but, on leveling them +carefully, I saw that the entire curve would not +be complete without the points, which were +smashed off. In this connection it is only fair<a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a> +to consider that I carried my lucky bear's head +belt, and invariably sacrificed to the Sun, as +several ragged garments, hung on spikes and +branches, may still testify.</p> + +<p>The weather threatened storm. J. B.'s leg +would not permit him to hunt. Anastasio +was full of meat, eating roasted ribs night and +day, beside his regular meals, and we decided +to retreat.</p> + +<p>I noticed that the sheep hides had little of +the under wool that the Northern sheep have +in December, nor were the animals fat, though +the flesh was sweet and tender, and the livers +had their desired medicinal effect.</p> + +<p>Anastasio said it was customary to hunt in +summer, when the sheep were fat, and were +compelled to resort to the water holes. Aside +from the meanness of taking advantage of the +animals' necessities, the summer is a bad season +for hunting, both because the flesh is rank +and spoils quickly, and the heat and insects +are intolerable.</p> + +<p>We packed our mules in a gentle rain, and +Anastasio made a great bundle of rejected +meat for his own use. To get rope, he slightly +roasted the leaves of the Spanish dagger, tore +the hot spikes in shreds with his tough fingers<a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a> +and knotted the fragments into a strong, pliable +cord.</p> + +<p>In two days we were again in the Trinidad +Valley, and in two days more—one of them +passed in facing a cold, driving storm, of great +violence—we had reached our old friend, Don +Manuel Murillo, at El Rayo. Here we lay +over a day to rest the animals, and Don +Manuel again played the part of a good angel +in letting us have some hay.</p> + +<p>I tried a shot at a duck on a little pond. +The shot was a costly success. The duck +died, but I had to wade for his remains +through many yards of frozen mud and dirty +water. The duck, though lean, was tender. +My last hunt was for deer at El Rayo, with +a boy of Don Manuel's for guide. Toward +noon I saw two deer and shot them. I do not +at present know just how to class them. The +tail is that of the ordinary mule-deer, or blacktail, +of Colorado and Montana, but there is no +white patch on the rump.</p> + +<p>The most of the deer in Lower, as well as +in Southern, California have little white on +their rumps, as in these specimens, but the +upper surface of the tail is generally dark. +The majority of the animals also are smaller<a name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a> +than the typical mule-deer of our Northern +States, but whether the differences between +the two are great enough and constant enough +to form a defined variety, some more competent +naturalist must decide. Pending authoritative +decision, I will submit, as a working +theory of a purely amateur kind, this suggestion: +that the Mexicans are right in saying +that the northern zone of their country contains +two varieties of deer—one a large animal, +called "buro," identical with our Northern +mule-deer; the other called "venado," a +mule-deer too, but only a cousin of the "buro," +much smaller, and with the white parts of the +mask, throat, rump and tail either absent or +much diminished in extent.</p> + +<p>Our journey home was accomplished in the +worst weather. Snow, cold rain, gales of surprising +fury, made life a struggle; but we +jumped at every chance for progress, and +finally crossed the line twenty-five days after +we had left it—tired, ragged, dirty, but with +our mules alive and our hearts contented.</p> + +<p>Our experience of the peninsula indicated +that there were few inhabitants of any kind, +brute or human. We saw hardly a dozen rabbits +on the trip. There were some quail and<a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a> +many ducks, but the latter were visitors only. +Deer were very scarce, and there were but a +few half-wild cattle visible.</p> + +<p>As for human beings, there was not an inhabited +house on our road from Alvarez Place, +in the Trinidad Valley, to El Rayo, a distance +of fifty-five miles; nor from El Rayo to Juarez, +twenty-five miles more. Indeed, except for the +few hovels at Tecate, the houses for the rest +of the way were hardly more numerous. And +yet we had a strong impression that the country +had nearly all the population it could support. +Given a moderately dry year, and the +part of Lower California which we visited can +be thought fit only for bogus land companies +and goose-egg mines; or, yes, it might be an +ideal spot for a health resort or a penal +colony.</p> + +<p class="signature2">George H. Gould.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_3" id="CHAPTER_3"></a>A Canadian Moose Hunt</h2> + + +<p>In October, 1893, I made an extended trip +with my brother into the country around the +head waters of the Ottawa. Our original plan, to +push northward toward the "Height of Land" +after caribou, was frustrated by high winds, +which made travel on the large lakes slow and +dangerous. The crossing of a ten-mile lake, +which could be accomplished in a morning if +calm, would consume several days with a high +wind blowing, necessitating a tedious coasting +on the windward shore. After much delay +from this cause and from heavy rains, which +made hunting difficult in the extreme, we at +length abandoned the hope of caribou on this +trip, and turned southward from Birch Lake +into Lake Kwingwishe—the Indian name for +meat bird. This was about the northern limit +of moose, although a few are found beyond it.</p> + +<p>Our repeated failures to see this great deer +would not form interesting reading, although, +if recorded, they would, no doubt, bring to the<a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a> +mind of many a moose hunter memories of +times when the hunt was hard and the result—a +blank. It is my purpose in this article to +merely sketch one or two instances of this +sort, which, in contrast to days of unrewarded +watching, were red-lettered with excitement. +I only give the episodes because too often we +relate our victories alone, and missed shots +and barren tramps are consigned to ill-merited +oblivion, however real they were.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="moose"></a> + +<img src="images/i006.jpg" border="0" alt="" title="" width="700" height="587"> +<p class="caption">A MOOSE OF THE UPPER OTTAWA.</p></div> + + +<p>After hunting the country around Lake +Kwingwishe, we at length camped on a small +pond near the east shore. Here we watched +and called every night and morning; then we +visited neighboring swamps and ponds, carrying +a canoe through the forest by compass. +It was always the same—wet and hungry, +tired out with tramping through tamarack +swamps, we would call half the night, sometimes +startled with false alarms from hoot owl +or loon, and then lie down in a rain-soaked +tent without a fire, for smoke always scares a +moose. The first streaks of dawn came, and +again we were up and anxiously watching the +shore for the appearance of the monster we +were after. There were his tracks a few hours +old but we could never catch him making<a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a> +them. It was too early in the season to trail +them down, as the bulls were traveling continuously +in impenetrable swamps, and our +best chance was to run across them on the +waterways.</p> + +<p>One morning, on a pond we had named +"Little Trout Pond," because it looked as +though it should have trout in it, but did not; +we awoke, after some specially exhausting +and disappointing "back pond" expeditions, +and found Chabot, one of our two Indian +guides, gone. Late in the afternoon he returned. +He had been seeing the country, and +had found a swamp about three miles off full +of fresh tracks, "so big moose," and he described +tracks such as must have belonged to +the Irish elk. Soon after sunrise on the following +day we were there. Cold lunch, no +dinner and lots of beautiful fresh tracks, one +the largest I ever saw.</p> + +<p>We watched motionless all day, saw the sun +cross the zenith and sink out of sight, saw +the twilight fade away and the moon come +up. About midnight we went back to camp, +through the woods. Night travel in a forest +that you can scarcely get through in the daytime +is beyond description.<a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a></p> + +<p>"So good swamp," said Chabot sadly that +night as he crawled into his tent.</p> + +<p>The next day we pitched a rough camp on +a hogback between two barren plains, about +five miles from our main camp. It rained hard +as soon as we got the tent up, and we watched +a runway at the foot of the hill until dark and +then turned in.</p> + +<p>The next morning it rained so heavily that +we lay in our tent, four of us, until about 11 +<span class="smcap">A. M.</span>, when it slacked up a little. My diary +says, "No fire and little breakfast." Before +this "little breakfast" was finished we heard a +moose call close by. Seizing our rifles, we +started with Chabot to stalk him. The brevity +of a diary is sometimes eloquent. Mine says, +"Walked from 12 <span class="smcap">M.</span> to 4.30 <span class="smcap">P. M.</span> through the +bush. Didn't hear that moose again."</p> + +<p>The latter hour found us back in camp to +get breakfast, when our other guide, Jocko, +who had gone to the main camp for food, +came back in great excitement, having found +some fresh signs close at hand. Breakfast +was dropped and again we started. We got +back just after dark from that trip and ate—for +the first time that day—some cold partridge +and pork.<a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a></p> + +<p>This was a fair sample of our hunting day, +but did not equal the following one. It rained +all that night, and the tent, not having been +properly stretched, leaked. We were awakened +by the crackling of a fire the guides had made. +It was direct disobedience of orders, and contrary +to the most elementary rules of moose +hunting; but, cold and faint for want of food, +we yielded to the innate perversity of the Indian. +We made a wild-eyed, starved group, +warming our fingers around the little blaze as +it snapped up through the still, wet morning +air. The teapot was just beginning to boil, +the pork was just sizzling, when we sprang to +our feet. A crash of antlers, as though two +bulls were fighting, sounded not a hundred +yards away. The noise was perfectly clear, +having a metallic ring to it, and was caused +by moose horns striking a hard substance.</p> + +<p>Again. Without a word, we seized our rifles, +and left our breakfast and fire, and I never +saw that spot afterward. Again came the +sound, still distinct, but further off, this time +like a birch canoe dragged through alders. +The animal had been on the runway which +crossed at the foot of the hill we were camped +on when he scented the fresh-lit fire. Well, to<a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a> +make a long story short, we followed that trail +three weary hours of running and creeping +through frightful swamps and thickets, hearing +every few minutes the sound just ahead of us, +but with never a sight of the game. His +huge tracks, which we crossed now and again, +showed he was not even trotting. Nearly +exhausted, we kept following the sound directly, +and so cutting across and gaining on +him. Once he seemed just ahead, and we +expected to see him each second; but we had +to pay for the luxury of that fire, as for other +good things in life, so we never saw a hair of +him. When, at last, completely used up, we +burst out on a lake and saw the muddy tracks +and the water still "riled up" where he had +crossed, Jocko swore he heard him crash up +the opposite bank; but we were at the end +of our strength and could go no further. A +man must eat sometimes, even on a moose +hunt.</p> + +<p>Now comes the really tragical part of this +episode; our canoe was not twenty feet from +where this perverse animal had entered the +water, and we were on the little pond where +our permanent camp stood. Still we felt encouraged, +for, as Chabot said that night,<a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a> +"Hear him now, see him pretty soon." But +not for many days.</p> + +<p>One more sample to encourage would-be +moose hunters, and then we will kill a moose +just to show how easy it is. Two nights after +the above adventure we changed our camp +and the weather at the same time. It was +clear now, but it grew very cold, and made +night work in the canoe a horror.</p> + +<p>It was my brother's turn to call, and I was +just dropping off to sleep in my tent, within a +few feet of the lake shore, when from the other +side of the water, about a quarter of a mile +distant, a bull moose called. On the cold, +still air it rang out like a trumpet—a long +call, very different from the call made by +Indian hunters. Jocko, who was with me in +camp, was frantic with excitement, especially +as my brother, who must have heard it, did +not answer. Again the call sounded. The +bull must be on the shore. I thought he +might swim over. Then came the answering +call, close at hand, of a cow. Jocko laughed +and whispered, "Chabot call him." Then +there was silence for a few minutes, followed +by a final bellow, evidently further off. The +mock cow bawled and screamed and bleated<a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a> +frantically, but no sound came back. My +brother and his man kept it up until late that +night, and then came to the camp almost +frozen. That incident ruined my faith in calling, +for every condition of wind and weather +was perfect, and Chabot's calling apparently +most enticing.</p> + +<p>After this and similar episodes, we left the +Kwingwishe country, after hunting it carefully +as far north as Sassanega Lake. We passed +Sair's Lake and the Bois Franc, and finally +reached the Little Beauchene. Near the last +lake my brother killed a young bull moose, +whose meat was the first fresh food, except +partridge, we had had for over three weeks. +It was delicious, and we felt the change of +diet at once in increased strength and energy. +For continuous use moose meat is much +superior to other venison, as it is of a rich +flavor which does not readily pall on the taste. +The myth about moose muffle being such a +hunters' delicacy has never allured me to +actually eat it, but I suppose a starving man +might, after consuming his boots, manage to +swallow it.</p> + +<p>There were many fresh signs in the neighborhood +of the Little Beauchene Lake, but<a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a> +some lumbermen had arrived a few days +before us and had scared the game away. +This starting the quarry is the real difficulty +in moose hunting; for, when once disturbed, +the bull leaves with all his kith and kin, so the +only chance in these regions is to find him +immediately on arrival in a new district and +before he comes across your tracks.</p> + +<p>Still working slowly southward, we hunted +more back ponds, until at last my turn came +on the twenty-seventh hunting day. Let no +man say that moose hunting is a picnic.</p> + +<p>We had camped on a little strip of land, +between a pond and a long narrow swamp, +about 4 o'clock on a beautiful afternoon. +Leaving my brother and Jocko to eat dinner +in comfort, I started to the head of the +swamp. The water was so low that we could +barely force the light canoe through the +lily-pads. Old moose signs were plenty. A +family of moose had evidently been there +all summer, but until we reached the upper +end we saw no fresh tracks. The sluggish +stream we were on drained a shallow lake, +and, after a few hard plunges, our canoe +floated clear of the mud into the silent +waters of a circular pond. It was a basin<a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a> +about a half mile across, surrounded by low +hardwood hills, and so shallow that a moose, I +think, could have waded across the deepest +part. The shores were marked up with some +very large tracks, but fresh signs had long +since ceased to excite in me anything more +than a passing interest. We made the tour of +the lake slowly and quietly. Nothing was in +sight except four wood ducks. This was +"last chance" pond, and if I got no moose +here, we must return to Mattawa for another +outfit, which I had about made up my mind to +do. The night settled still and cold—oh, so +cold!—and the stars came out with wonderful +distinctness.</p> + +<p>What was that?</p> + +<p>Chabot had started up, listened, and a second +later was driving the birch across the lake +noiselessly. As we neared the shore, it was +inky black—a mammoth would not have been +visible ten yards away. Twigs breaking at +long intervals told that something was on +shore just in cover of the bushes. We waited +some time and at last I whispered to Chabot, +"Muckwa?" (bear).</p> + +<p>"Not muckwa—cow," answered the guide.</p> + +<p>As he spoke, the short call of a bull floated<a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a> +out on the cold air from the side of the pond +that we had just left. I think Chabot was +right about the cow being in the bushes, but +he may have been mistaken—one's hearing +becomes unnaturally sensitive after a few +weeks' continuous straining to catch and distinguish +the most distant sounds. But there was +no mistake about that bull's call. He was well +back from the shore on the hillside. The +wind was wrong, and, although he grunted +at intervals for an hour, he paid no attention +to Chabot's most seductive pleadings. We +imitated with paddles the splashings of a +cow walking in the shallow water, but this and +other devices had no effect. When at last +even my Indian could no longer bear the +bitter cold of the wind which had sprung up, +we started for camp. Long past midnight +we crawled into our blankets, and I dropped +asleep cursing the day I had first gone after +moose.</p> + +<p>We were on that pond again before daylight. +Not a sound to be heard, not a living thing +to be seen, when the sun rose. We took our +stand on a small point opposite the outlet and +watched. I sat on a fallen tree motionless, +hour after hour. Chabot dozed beside me.<a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a> +Those four ducks played and fed within thirty +feet, and a muskrat worked at house-building +a few yards away. The silence was intense. +There was not a breath of wind. I knew my +brother was doing the same thing on a neighboring +pond, and I fell to thinking whether +there was some special Nemesis about this +hunt, or it was the fault of the guides. I +glanced at the outlet in front of me, about +a half mile distant.</p> + +<p>There was a moose, stalking with the utmost +deliberation along the edge of the woods and +then into the shallow water.</p> + +<p>Chabot was roused by a hasty shake, and a +second later the canoe was flying across the +lake. As we crossed, I inspected the moose +closely. He was walking slowly, nibbling the +long reed-like grass that stuck up from the +water. His neck seemed very stiff, and he +swung his legs from his hips and shoulders. +The hump was extremely conspicuous, perhaps +because his head was carried low to get at the +grass. He was a young bull, nearly full grown, +and with small antlers. He looked occasionally +at the canoe, now fast nearing him; but +we had the advantage of the wind, and the sun +was going down behind us. It was just 5<a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a> +o'clock. He walked, now out toward us, now +back to shore, as though about to bolt for the +bush, but working slowly toward the north, +where we afterwards found a much-used runway, +leading to the marsh my brother was +watching, two miles away. I opened fire about +fifty yards off, when the moose was standing +in about a foot of water, looking suspiciously +at us. The shot was too high, but struck him +in the shoulder. He started in a lumbering +gallop along the shore. I fired again. This +turned him into the woods at an old lumber +road. We heard the twigs snap sharply for a +minute, and then a heavy crash and silence. +I thought we had lost him, but Chabot declared +that he was down. I sprang ashore +the moment the canoe grounded, and dashed +in on his trail, which was perfectly clear on +the soft moss. Looking ahead through the +open woods for the animal, which I thought +had turned, I almost fell over his prostrate +body.</p> + +<p>His head rested against a small windfall, +which he had tried to clear—an effort which +appeared to have cost him his life. Moss hung +from some small spruce trees close by, which +had been kicked up in the death struggle.<a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a> +The shoulder shot had been the fatal one, but +he had been hard hit in the side too.</p> + +<p>He was not full grown, and measured only 5 +feet 6-1/2 inches in height, and 8 feet 3-1/4 +inches in length, from the nose to root of tail. +His girth at the shoulder was 5 feet 11-1/4 +inches. His nose showed none of the Jewish +characteristics which taxidermists are fond of +giving their mounted moose heads. The forehead +and shoulders were brownish instead of +black, like the rest of the body. The hindlegs +were wholly white, as were the forelegs +below the knee. I am inclined to think he +was a ranger moose, but could not tell with +certainty, as his horns were too undeveloped. +The velvet was still hanging in places, but +very dry. This was unusual, as it was the +10th of October.</p> + +<p>Ordering Chabot to dress the moose, I +went back to the canoe, having decided to +watch until dark, although there seemed no +possibility of seeing another moose after the +firing. My lazy guide, instead of obeying my +order, merely cut the skin, with the result that +all the meat spoiled—probably just what he +wanted, fearing he would have to portage it +out of the bush. We returned to our point<a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a> +and dozed again. At a quarter of 7 it was +getting dark fast, and in the north a black, +ugly-looking cloud was gathering. We might +as well go back to camp if it was going +to blow and rain, so I told Chabot to shove +off and to give one last toot of his horn, +just for luck.</p> + +<p>The air was still as death with the dread of +the impending storm. Chabot took up the +coiled birch, and the echoes rang out with a +short grunting call, which so much resembles +a man chopping wood. Before they died +away, there came from behind us, just to our +right, the unmistakable answering grunt of a +bull moose. He was probably on his way to +the lake, and our call merely hastened him +and brought him out into the open before it +was too dark to shoot. He was very near and +came steadily forward, stopping now and then +to listen. We could hear him plainly as his +horns broke the twigs at every step—once or +twice he lashed the bushes with them. He +repeated his grunts, ungh! ungh! every few +steps. He was so evidently reckless that, to +take no chance, I allowed Chabot to answer +only once—with the short call. I say short call, +in distinction to the long modulated call which<a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a> +is used to good purpose in Maine and New +Brunswick, but which I have never known to +succeed in this part of Canada. The moose +paused for a moment in the alders that formed +a close thicket at the water's edge, and I +feared he had seen or scented us; then suddenly +and noiselessly he stepped out from a +cove a short hundred yards away. He had +taken less than ten minutes from the first call +to his appearance.</p> + +<p>At the first alarm we had pushed off and +were floating quietly just by the shore. The +water was so shallow that the birch made, to +my ears at least, a frightful scraping as it +pushed over the dead sticks that lay in the +water, and the wind was unfavorable. I never +shall forget the appearance that bull made as +he stepped fiercely and proudly out, with his +head up, swinging a splendid set of antlers as +lightly as straws. He did not see us, but +strode about ten yards into the shallow lake, +where the water scarcely covered his hoofs, +and, first glancing away for a second, turned +like a flash and faced us full, looking down on +us in surprised disgust. He was greatly excited +and the mane on his hump was erect, increasing +his natural height, and there was<a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a> +nothing timid or deer-like in his appearance. +I have seen in the arena a bull step out from +the darkened stall into the glare of sunlight, +and gaze for a moment at the picadors with a +sort of indignant surprise; so this great bull +moose looked.</p> + +<p>We gazed motionless at each other, I knowing +that it was one of the grandest and rarest +sights on the American continent, and he +thinking, no doubt, what a disgraceful imitation +of a cow the motionless canoe made. +Chabot's breath was coming hard behind me, +and I felt the birch bark quiver.</p> + +<p>As I raised my rifle, I realized that it had +suddenly grown very dark under this western +bank, and the bull precisely resembled in color +the background, and, large as he was, made a +very poor mark. The tall grass, which I had +looked over in watching him, now sticking up +in front of the sights, bothered me. I fired at +the root of his neck, and the rifle gave a suppressed +roar in the heavy air and the smoke +hung like a pall. The bull ran straight forward, +hesitated as though about to charge, +then turned and made wonderful speed along +the lake shore. The moment I could see him +I fired again. In the dim twilight he was<a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a> +almost out of sight. When the smoke cleared +he was gone.</p> + +<p>Neither of us moved. It was too frightful +to miss such an immense creature at that +range. We heard him crash up the hillside +and then stop a short distance back in the +wood. Then I knew he either was down or +had turned, unless he had found an open lumber +road, where his horns would make no +sound; for a moose can go in the most mysterious +manner when he chooses to be quiet—but +there was nothing quiet about this bull.</p> + +<p>Chabot declared that he had heard him +cough, but I did not believe it. I pointed to +the spot where he had entered the bush, and +a moment later the canoe grated on the beach. +There were the huge tracks with the hoofs +wide spread, and the trail entering an old +lumber road.</p> + +<p>All this took less time to happen than to +read, and yet it was now dark, so quickly had +night fallen. By straining my eyes I saw it +was 7 o'clock—just two hours after the first +bull was killed. Chabot wanted to go back to +camp, which was the proper thing to do, especially +as I had now just one cartridge left. I +had only taken a handful with me that morning.<a name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a></p> + +<p>We entered the forest foot by foot, Chabot +following the trail where I could scarcely see +to step. A few yards in and the track turned +from the old road into the thick bush, and we +knew the moose was near. A little further, +and we scarcely moved—stepping like cats +from tree to tree, expecting every second to +hear an angry grunt and have the bull emerge +from the impenetrable veil of night that hung +around us.</p> + +<p>At last we came to a windfall, and we were +for some time at a loss to find whether he had +gone across or around it. In lighting a match +with extreme caution, the light fell on a tall +moose wood stem about as large as one's finger. +Four feet from the ground it was dripping +with bright red blood. The coughing +Chabot had heard was now, we thought, explained, +and the game hard hit. We decided +to go back to camp; for, as my guide put it +very clearly, the wounded bull would either +fight or run. I wasn't anxious for the first +alternative in the dark and tangled wood, with +one cartridge; and the second meant a long +chase on the morrow. If we left him until +the morning, he would be either dead or too +stiff from his wound to go far.<a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a></p> + +<p>So back we went to camp, amply repaid by +the events of two hours for weeks of hardship +and exposure. Just at daylight the next +morning, as we were leaving camp, prepared +to take and keep the trail of that bull if it +led to Hudson Bay, my brother appeared with +Jocko. He had had no breakfast, and had +come a long distance through a frightful bush +in order to be in at the death, as he had heard +the firing, and shrewdly suspected that in the +dusk a wounded moose was the result.</p> + +<p>"From the tracks at my lake," said he, as +he strode up to the fire, "there are two bull +moose around here—a large and a small one; +which did you get?"</p> + +<p>"Both," replied Chabot.</p> + +<p>We took the trail at the water's edge, and +found it smeared with blood. The bull could +not have gone far. A short walk brought us +to the windfall where we had turned back the +night before, and which had seemed so deep +in the woods.</p> + +<p>A hundred yards beyond it lay the bull on +his right side. The second shot had struck +him in the center of the left ham and ranged +through him. The meat was spoiled, as was +the hide—that is, the hair came out so badly<a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a> +that it was not worth while to prepare it; but +the neck and scalp were perfect, except a bad +scar on the forehead, received in fighting.</p> + +<p>He was a grand sight as he lay dead in +that silent autumn forest—for I never can get +over the impression that somehow or other +the moose is a survival of a long past order +of nature, a fit comrade for the mammoth and +the cave bear. He was short and thickset, +with immense chest power—probably a swamp +moose. The neck was short and stout, and he +had a Jewish cast of nose. No bell—merely +the common dewlap. He measured at the +shoulder 6 feet 6 inches; 9 feet 8-1/2 inches +from nose to tip of tail; girth at shoulders, +6 feet 2-1/2 inches. We skinned and decapitated +the moose, one after the other. The +meat of both was completely spoiled, and it +seemed wicked to leave those two huge carcasses +to the bears and wolves; but there was +no help for it, so we started for Mattawa. I +doubt if we could have carried out any of the +meat if we had tried, for we had to throw +away everything not absolutely necessary on +the long portages that followed. At last we +reached Rosiceau's, on Snake Lake, and, with +the welcome the old man gave us, felt quite<a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a> +at home once more. Then passing by the +scenes of a former hunt, we reached Fort +Eddy, an old Hudson Bay post, and then +the Ottawa River. We ran the Cave rapids, +and at sundown on a beautiful day the town +of Mattawa swung in sight, and the hunt +was over.</p> + +<p>The country we had traversed contained +little except bears and moose. We saw a few +caribou tracks, and brought home with us a +curious caribou antler, which we found in the +woods.</p> + +<p>The fur animals have, within the last five +years, been exterminated, and the very few +beaver that survive have abandoned their old +habits, and live in holes in the banks of the +larger streams. We found traces of one of +these bank beaver, but he was probably traveling +and we could not catch him. A few mink +were shot, but the country is completely stripped +of everything else of value. If the present +law, prohibiting the trapping of otter and +beaver, can be enforced, perhaps the land +may be restocked, but it will take years. It +is fit for nothing except fur and timber, and, +with efficient game wardens, could be made to +produce a large return from these sources.<a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a> +Partridges and loons abounded, but ducks +were seldom seen.</p> + +<p>The lakes form a complete system of communication +by means of easy portages, but +there are no streams that contain trout and no +springs to supply drinking water. This lack +of fresh water caused us considerable suffering, +as the lake water is supposed to be dangerous, +and a pail of spring water, which we got at the +start, was carried for days over portages as our +most precious baggage. We did not see a +sign of a brook trout during the entire trip, +and I do not believe that there were any in +the waters we traversed. There may have +been lake trout, but our trolling produced +only pike and pickerel.</p> + +<p>This absence of small game and fish makes +the country very uninteresting, and the long +monotony between most exciting events is the +greatest drawback to hunting on the Upper +Ottawa.</p> + +<p class="signature2">Madison Grant.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_4" id="CHAPTER_4"></a>A Hunting Trip in India</h2> + + +<p>Early in 1881 I landed at Bombay, intending +to get as many varieties of big game shooting +as possible during the course of the year. +I was well armed with introductions, including +many from the Department of State, and during +my stay in India was treated by the +English military officers, civil officials, planters +and merchants with a hearty hospitality +which I cordially appreciated. Thanks to this +hospitality, and to the readiness with which all +to whom I was introduced fell into my plans, +I was able to get a rather unusually varied +quantity of sport.</p> + +<p>My first trip was in March, after tigers. On +the 1st of March I started from Hyderabad +with Colonels Fraser and Watson, and traveled +by palanquin that day and night, and most +of the next day, striking the foot of the Gāt +at a place called Rungapore, and then going +on over a great plain, beyond which we +camped. The scenery was magnificent, and<a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a> +we heard much news of the devastation of +tigers among the large herds of miserable-looking +cattle belonging to the poor villagers +roundabout. The thermometer went up to +96 degrees in the shade during the day, but +the nights were lovely and cool. Thanks to +Colonel Fraser, we were fitted out as comfortably +as we could be, and the luxury of the +camp life offered the strongest possible contrast +to my experiences in roughing it on the +buffalo range in northwestern Texas.</p> + +<p>For the first two days we accomplished +nothing, though several of the cattle we had +put out for baits were killed, and though we +started and beat the jungles with our elephants +whenever we received khubber, or news. Our +camp equipage included twenty elephants, +forty camels and bullocks, thirty horses for +the troopers, and fifty baggage horses. We +had seventeen private servants, twenty-six +police, fifty-two bearers, and an indefinite +number of attendants for the elephants and +camels, and of camp followers. An Indian of +high position, Sir Salar Jung, was along also; +so our total retinue comprised 350 men, in +addition to which we employed each day of +beaters 150 or 200 more.<a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a></p> + +<p>On March 5th, one of the shikaris brought +word that he had seen and heard a tigress and +two cubs at a nullah about six miles away. +Immediately we started up the valley, Col. +Fraser, Col. Watson and myself, each on his +own elephant. The jungle was on fire and +the first beat was not successful, for we had to +fight the fire, and in the excitement the brute +got off. However, some of the watchers saw +her, and marked her down in another small +ravine. Through this we again beat, the excitement +being at fever heat. I was, of course, +new to the work, and the strangeness of the +scene, the cries of the beaters and watchers, +the occasional explosion of native fireworks, +together with the quantity of other game that +we saw, impressed me much. In this ravine I +was favored by good luck. The tigress broke +right in front of me, and I hit her with a ball +from a No. 12 smooth-bore. She sickened at +once and crawled back into the jungle. In +we went on the elephants, tracking her up. +She made no attempt to charge, and I finished +her off with another barrel of the smooth-bore +and two express bullets. The crowd of natives +ran up, abusing the tigress and praising me, +while the two colonels drank my health. We<a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a> +then padded the tigress and rode back to +camp, having been gone from half past 9 in +the morning till 7 in the evening. This tigress +weighed, when we brought her in, 280 +pounds; her living weight must have been +much more.</p> + +<p>Next day we again got news of a tigress, +with one cub, but we failed to find her. The +following day, for a change, I tried still-hunting +through the woods. There was not much +game, but what we did see was far from shy, +and the shooting was easy. The camp was on +a terrace, and from it we went up a range of +hills to the stalking ground. It was a stony +country and the trees were scrubby. I shot +two cheetul, or spotted deer, and also two of +the little jungle cocks. The next day again +was a blank, but on the 9th we got another +tiger. Thanks to the courtesy of my friends, +I was given the first shot, again hitting it with +one barrel of the smooth-bore. The heat was +very great on this day. It was not possible to +touch the gun barrels without a glove, and the +thirst was awful. In the evening the cool bath +was a luxury indeed. By moonlight the camp +was very fine. The next morning I was off at +daybreak, snipe shooting around a big tank,<a name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a> +seven miles away. On my return I found that +my companions had gone out for a beat, and +so, after a hurried breakfast, I jumped on my +horse and rode after them. That afternoon +we beat two ravines and got a tiger. This +was the last tiger that we killed. The weather +was getting very warm, and, though we stayed +a week longer out, we failed to get on terms +with Mr. Stripes again. However, I shot three +sambur stags. Two of them were weighed +in camp, their weight being, respectively, 450 +and 438 pounds.</p> + +<p>It was now getting hot, and I determined +to start northward for my summer's hunting +in the Himalayas and Cashmere, although it +was rather early to try to get through the +mountains. I left Lahore on April 6th for the +Pir Pinjal. My transportation consisted of +eight pack ponies and three native single-horse +carts. I was shown every courtesy by +Mr. McKay, a member of the Forest Department, +at Gujarat. I intended to make a hunt +for gorals and bears in the mountains around +the Pir Pinjal before striking through to Cashmere. +The goral is a little mountain antelope, +much like the chamois, only with straight +horns. The bear in the region in which I<a name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a> +was hunting was the black bear, which is very +much like our own black bear. Further on in +the Himalayas is found the red or snow bear, +which is a good deal like the great brown bear +of Europe, or a small and inoffensive grizzly. +After leaving Gujarat, I traveled for several +days before coming to my hunting ground +proper, although on the way I killed some +peacocks, partridges, and finally some very +handsome pheasants of different kinds. The +country offered the greatest possible contrast +to that in which I had been hunting tigers. +Everything was green and lovely, and the +scenery was magnificent beyond description—the +huge steep mountains rising ahead of me, +while the streams were crystal-clear, noisy torrents. +The roads were very rough, and the +wild flowers formed great carpets everywhere.</p> + +<p>On the 16th of April I began my shooting, +having by this time left my heavy baggage +behind, and having with me only what the +coolies could carry. I had two shikaris, four +servants and twelve coolies, besides myself. +On April 16th I killed my first goral. I had +hunted in vain all day, but about 5 o'clock one +of the shikaris advised my starting out again +and climbing around the neighboring cliffs. I<a name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a> +did this for two and one-half hours, and then +got a close shot and killed the little beast. +This was my first trial of grass-shoes, and my +first experience in climbing over the stupendous +mountain masses; for stupendous they +were, though they were only the foothills of +the Himalayas proper. Without grass-shoes +it is impossible to climb on these smooth, +grassy slopes; but I found that they hurt my +feet a great deal. The next day I again went +off with my two shikaris over the mountains. +Each of them carried a gun. I had all I could +do to take care of myself without one, for a +mis-step would have meant a fall of a thousand +or two feet. In the morning we saw five +gorals and I got one. At 10 I stopped and a +coolie came up with a lunch, and I lay reading, +sleeping and idly watching the grand mountains +until the afternoon, when we began again +to examine the nullahs for game, being all the +time much amused by the monkeys. At 4 we +started again, and in a jagged mass of precipices +I got another goral. The next day I +repeated my experience, and had one of the +characteristic bits of bad luck, offset by good +luck, that come to every hunter—missing a +beautiful shot at fifty yards, and then, by a<a name="Page_114" id="Page_114"></a> +fluke, killing a goral at 300 yards. The animal, +however, fell over 1,000 feet and was +ruined. I myself had a slip this day and went +down about fifty feet. The following day I +again went off to climb, and the first ascent +was so steep that at the top I was completely +blown, and missed a beautiful shot at a goral +at fifty yards. I then arranged a beat, but +nothing came from it, and the morning was a +blank. In the afternoon I gave up beating +and tried still-hunting again. It was hard +work, but I was very successful, and killed +two gorals and a bear.</p> + +<p>At this time I was passed by two English +officers, also going in to shoot—one of them, +Captain S. D. Turnbull, a very jolly fellow and +a good sportsman, with whom I got on excellent +terms; the other, a Captain C., was a very +bad walker and a poor shot, and was also a +disagreeable companion, as he would persist +in trying to hang around my hunting grounds, +thus forcing me continually to shift.</p> + +<p>On April 21st I tried driving for gorals, +and got four, and on the next two days I got +three gorals and two bears. So far I had had +great luck and great sport. The work was +putting me in fine trim, except my feet, which<a name="Page_115" id="Page_115"></a> +were getting very sore. It was very hard +work going after the gorals. The bears offered +easier stalking, and, like our American black +bear but unlike our grizzly, they didn't show +fight. The climbing was awful work. The +stones and grass-shoes combined bruised and +skinned the soles of my feet, so that I could +not get relief without putting them in clarified +butter and then keeping them up in the air. +Accordingly I tried resting for a day, and +meant to rest the following day too; but +could not forbear taking a four hours' stroll +along the banks of the brawling, snow-fed +river, and was rewarded by shooting a surow—a +queer, squatty, black antelope, about the +size of a Rocky Mountain white goat and with +similar horns. The next day I rested again, +hoping my feet would get better. Instead +they got worse, and I made up my mind that, +as they were so bad, I might as well get some +hunting anyhow, so off I tramped on the 27th +for another all-day jog. It would be difficult +to describe the pain that my feet gave me all +day long. However, it was a real sporting +day. I suffered the tortures of the damned, +but I got two gorals and one tahr—a big species +of goat with rather small horns—and then hob<a name="Page_116" id="Page_116"></a>bled +back to camp. Next day I stayed quietly +in camp, and then started back to the camp +where I had left my heavy baggage. On the +way I picked up another black bear. My feet +were in a frightful condition, but I had had a +fortnight's excellent sport.</p> + +<p>I then went on to Cashmere, and on May 6th +reached Siringur. The scenery was beautiful +beyond description, and the whole life of the +natives very attractive to look at. However, +something did not agree with me, for I was +very sick and had to go to bed for several +days. There were one or two American +friends there, and these and the Englishmen, +to whom I had letters of introduction, treated +me with extreme courtesy. As soon as I got +well, I started off for the real mountains, hoping +especially to get ibex and markhoor. The +ibex is almost exactly the same as the European +animal of that name. The markhoor is +a magnificent goat, with long whitish hair and +great spiral horns. They also have in these +Cashmere valleys a big stag called the barramigh, +which is a good deal like our wapiti, +only not half so large. On May 21st I started +off, first by boat, but I was bothered from the +beginning by chills and fever. I was weak,<a name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a> +and glad I didn't have to march. At first, all +I did in shooting was to have my coolies beat +some brush patches near camp. Out of one +of them they started a little musk-deer, which +I shot. Soon I began to get very much better +and we took up our march. I was going toward +Astor, but encountered much snow, as it +was still early in the season for these high +mountains. I saw some grand barramigh, but +their horns were, of course, only just growing, +and I didn't molest them.</p> + +<p>Very soon I got into a country where the +red bears literally swarmed. From May 26th +to June 5th, during which time I was traveling +and hunting all the time, I shot no less than +sixteen, together with two musk-deer, but saw +nothing else. The marching was very hard, +and some of the passes dangerous. I met a +British officer, Lieutenant Carey, on the 30th, +who treated me very well indeed. The scenery +was very beautiful, although rather bleak. I +did not pick up strength as much as I had +hoped. On June 3d I christened my camp +Camp Good Luck, because of the phenomenal +success I had with the bears. That morning +we left by 4 to cross the river before the snow +had melted. The thermometer would go down<a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a> +to 30 degrees, even in the valleys, at night, so +that everything would freeze, and then would +go up to 110 in the day, and when the snow +melted the streams would come down in a perfect +torrent. Not two miles beyond the river +I saw three bears on the side of a hill, a she +and two two-year-old cubs. My shikari made +a splendid stalk and brought me within forty +yards, and I got all three with a shot apiece. +The delight of my camp followers was amusing. +I then left the tents, and, taking only my +blankets and a lunch basket with me, started +off again. At midday I slept, and at 2 o'clock +started up the nullah, seeing a number of +bears. One of them I got within fifty yards, +and two others, right and left, at 100 yards. +The skinning took a long time, and the stream +which I had to cross was up with the evening +flood, so that I didn't get back to camp until +10 o'clock. I had shot unusually well, I had +been happy and was all tired out, and it is +needless to say how I slept.</p> + +<p>Soon after this I began to suffer from fever, +and I had to work very hard indeed, as I was +now on the ibex ground. For several days, +though I saw ibex, I was unable to get near +them. Finally, on June 9th, I got my first<a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a> +one, a young buck with small horns. I had to +hunt way up the mountain, even beyond bush +vegetation, and the hot sun at midday was +awful. Nevertheless, by very hard climbing, +I managed on this day to get within shot first +of a herd of nine females, which I did not +touch, and then of the young buck, which I +killed. On June 13th, by another heart-breaking +climb, very high up, I got a second small +buck. I did not get back to camp that night +till half past 9—tired out, feet badly cut with +the stones and bruised all over; but in spite of +the fever I enjoyed every day—the scenery +was so grand and the life so exhilarating. +Four days afterwards came a red-letter day. +I started early in the morning, clambering up +among the high mountains. Until noon I saw +nothing; then several flocks of ibex came in +sight, one of them of eleven big bucks. I had +to wait four hours to get into a position to +stalk; then by quick work and awful climbing +I came within close range and killed three. It +was half past 10 in the evening before I got +back to camp, very nearly done up, but exultant +over my good luck.</p> + +<p>The traveling now became very severe and +I had a great deal of difficulty even with the<a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a> +coolies, and though I hunted hard I got little +game until July 8th. I had been shifting, trying +to get on markhoor ground, and on this +day I killed my first markhoor. The shikaris +and I left the coolies to go around the path +while we went over the mountain, a five hours' +climb, keeping a sharp lookout for game. Just +at the beginning of the ascent we saw three +fine-looking markhoor grazing in a nullah, and +after a stalk of about a mile, during which +time it began to rain, the beasts went into a +jungle on the steep side of the mountain. +Through this we still-hunted and I got a shot +through the bushes at 100 yards. By good +luck I hit and great was the rejoicing. Five +days later I got two ibex, which at a distance +we had mistaken for markhoor. Then I was +attacked by a terrible dysentery and was within +an ace of dying. For a fortnight I was unable +to leave camp, excepting when I was carried +slowly along by the coolies in the effort +to get me out of the mountains. On August +1st I shot a second markhoor. We were journeying +at the time. In the very rough places +I had to walk, though awfully weak; elsewhere +the coolies carried me. The markhoor was +just below us, round a turn in the Indus Val<a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>ley. +I was in advance with one of the shikaris +and got a quiet shot, and more by good luck +than anything else—for I was very weak—I +killed. I now began gradually to pick up +strength, and when near Astor I got a urial, a +kind of wild sheep.</p> + +<p>I had no other experience of note till I got +back to Siringur, where I stayed to recuperate, +and at the end of August went off once more +into the foothills, this time after barramigh. +In a week's work I killed three, but again +became sick, and had to give up and come in.</p> + +<p>I forthwith returned to India, the hot weather +being by this time pretty well over. As I +was very anxious to kill an elephant, I went +down to Ceylon, reaching that island the end +of October and going out to Kandy. I met +a number of Englishmen, who were very kind +to me, as were some Eurasian gentlemen. On +November 16th I left Minerva for a regular +hunt. It was very interesting shooting through +the tropical jungle and I had good luck. There +were plenty of elephants, but at first I didn't +get any, though I shot five spotted deer and a +boar. Finally, however, I got two of the big +brutes I was mainly after. One of them, which +I killed on the 20th of the month, was said to<a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a> +be a rogue that had killed two villagers and +done at intervals a good deal of damage to the +crops. An old native tracker had guaranteed +to show me this elephant. He kept his word. +For three or four miles we had a very exciting +track, and then came on him standing in the +jungle, occasionally flapping his ears, and crept +up to within thirty yards. I think he was +asleep and I got a perfectly good shot, but, +extraordinary to say, I missed. However, +when he ran I went after him, and, getting +very close, I shot him in the hip, so injuring +his leg that he could not get away. He could +still get round after us, and we passed a most +lively half-hour, he trumpeting and charging +incessantly, until, after expending a great +quantity of cartridges, I finally put a bullet +behind his eye, and down he went.</p> + +<p>Soon after this I went back to Kandy, and +early in December left India for good.</p> + +<p class="signature2">Elliott Roosevelt.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a> +<a name="CHAPTER_5" id="CHAPTER_5"></a> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="outfit"></a> + +<img src="images/i007.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="440"> +<p class="caption">HOW OUR OUTFIT WAS CARRIED.</p></div> + + +<h2>Dog Sledging in the North</h2> + + +<p>A good many years ago, my friends, Boies +Penrose, Granville Keller, and I concluded +that it would be a fitting termination to a very +successful summer and fall hunting trip in the +Rocky Mountains to endeavor to kill some +moose and caribou in the Lake Winnipeg +country, Manitoba. Thus we should combine +very different kinds of sport amid surroundings +more dissimilar than we imagined at the +time. The whole of this rather memorable +trip occupied nearly six months.</p> + +<p>Our adventures during the latter part of the +hunt, that is, during our sojourn in the far +north—while a part of the every-day experience +of those familiar with the winter life in +the woods of that country—were of a character +totally unknown to the majority of sportsmen +in the United States, and for this reason it has +been thought worth while to give a short +account of them.</p> + +<p>If my recollection serves me correctly, we<a name="Page_124" id="Page_124"></a> +arrived at Selkirk, at the lower end of Lake +Winnipeg, in the latter part of October, to +find navigation already closed. We had hoped +to reach the upper part of the lake by means +of a steamer, but found this impossible, and +were therefore obliged to go on sleds to our +first hunting ground—a moose country to the +south of the head waters of the Fisher River, +between Lake Winnipeg and Lake Winnipegosis.</p> + +<p>At Selkirk we were joined by a Mr. Phillips, +and we had there employed an Indian boy +to look after the dogs. This Indian was a +magnificent specimen physically, and certainly +the best walker that I have ever known. With +the exception of a pardonable fondness for our +whisky, he behaved very well at first, but afterward +became so insufferably lazy that he was +scarcely fit for the simple work of driving one +of the dog teams—a change which was to be +attributed entirely to our kind treatment of +him. He was, however, a good trailer, but +the worst shot that I remember to have met. +He seemed to have no difficulty in finding +moose, but could not hit them, which was the +exact reverse of our experience.</p> + +<p>Portions of the country between Lakes<a name="Page_125" id="Page_125"></a> +Winnipeg and Winnipegosis, visited by our +party, are as flat as the flattest portions of +New Jersey, and for great distances nothing +could be more level except possibly a billiard +table. It is traversed by very few rivers or +even creeks, there being immense stretches of +territory where the only guide back to camp is +the sun when it shines, or when it does not +your compass, or the dog-sled trail through the +snow leading to the camp. The different portions +of this region are so much alike that it is +almost impossible to tell one from another.</p> + +<p>Owing to the fact that it is very dangerous +to be caught out over night, with the thermometer +ranging anywhere from zero to 50 +degrees below, we took the precaution to +mount a big red flag in the top of the highest +spruce we could find near our camp, so that, by +climbing a high tree anywhere within a radius +of a mile or so, one could easily see this flag. +To still further reduce the chance of getting +lost, we blazed the trees in a straight line for +four miles due south of the camp, and, as the +dog-sled trail came into our camp (which was +in the heavy timber) from the north, it was +not difficult to find one's way home in the +evening. These precautions—needless else<a name="Page_126" id="Page_126"></a>where, +but wise in this country—were taken +principally because each of us had always been +in the habit for years of hunting alone—a +practice which I would recommend to anyone +who desires to be really successful in killing +big game.</p> + +<p>This vast expanse of flat country is quite +heavily wooded over large areas, the timber +being spruce, tamarack, poplar, birch, etc., with +a great abundance of red and gray willow. +The underbrush is sometimes very thick. +There are, however, innumerable open places, +which bear the local name of muskegs. These +are, of course, marshes in summer, and covered +with a heavy growth of grass; in winter they +are frozen hard, and traveling over them is +comparatively easy.</p> + +<p>The moose seem to be fond of remaining +close to the edges of these muskegs, which are +usually fringed with a heavy growth of willows. +It would appear, however, that they +venture out into these open places either during +the night, early in the morning, or late in +the afternoon; and, as these were the times +when we were very glad either to be in camp +or to be returning to it, we had more success +in finding the moose in the timber, or on the<a name="Page_127" id="Page_127"></a> +little so-called ridges, which sometimes attain +the remarkable height of four or five feet.</p> + +<p>Up to the time of leaving this camp we had +very little opportunity to use snowshoes, as +the snow was not yet—about the last of November—deep +enough to make these necessary. +We hunted all of the time in moccasins, +boots of any description being simply out +of the question, as they would soon freeze as +hard as iron. After the cold weather set in, +one day's experience with boots was quite sufficient +for me, and I came to the conclusion, as +I had often before in other regions, that it is +very difficult to improve, in the matter of +clothing, upon the customs of the country. +The sudden change to moccasins was very +tiring at first, but after one gets used to walking +in them he will find that he can walk further +and hunt better in them than any other +style of foot-gear. We used, as I remember, +first one or two pairs of heavy woolen socks, +then a very heavy so-called "German" sock, +coming up to the knee, over which we wore +the high laced moccasin of the country.</p> + +<p>Before we had very long been engaged in +moose hunting we all learned that we were not +so expert in the art of killing big game as we<a name="Page_128" id="Page_128"></a> +previously imagined ourselves. In all my experience +I have never met with any animal +which is so difficult to get a shot at, even when +quite numerous, as the moose in this region. +It must always be borne in mind that to kill +a moose—especially in a country where they +have been hunted for generations by the Indians—by +the thoroughly sportsmanlike method +of following the trail of one until you +finally get a shot at it and kill it, is a totally +different thing from killing the same moose +either by calling him at night in the autumn +or by paddling on him in a canoe in the summer. +In fact, of all the difficult things I have +ever undertaken in the way of sport, I regard +this as the most difficult; and before I got my +first shot I began to think that there was a +great deal of truth in the Indian's sneering +remark, "White man no kill moose." Finally +one day my luck turned, but that it did so was +due more to the realization of my own inferiority, +and lack of the proper kind of knowledge, +than to anything else.</p> + +<p>It happened in this way: having thoroughly +convinced myself that the moose either smelt +me or in some other way found out that I was +in their neighborhood before I could be made<a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a> +aware of the same fact, I concluded that there +was something radically wrong in my manner +of hunting them, although I employed every +method known to me—methods which had +been acquired in an experience during which +I had killed considerably over one hundred +head of big game, throughout the Rockies and +the Alleghanies. In short, I was exceedingly +painstaking and careful. Notwithstanding all +my precautions, however, I remember that I +had the satisfaction one night of knowing that +I had started during the day eight different +moose, each separately, without hearing or +seeing a single one of them. This sort of +thing lasted for twenty-two consecutive days, +or until I finally concluded that, as our Indian +seemed to have no trouble in seeing moose, I +would follow his tactics. Waiting, therefore, +one morning until I was sure that the Indian +had left camp, I changed my course so as to +intersect his trail, followed this for some distance, +and watched carefully his foot-prints, so +as to read the record of his hunt.</p> + +<p>Pretty soon it became apparent that he had +come across a moose trail. He tried it first +with the toe of his moccasin, then with the +butt of his gun, and satisfied himself that it<a name="Page_130" id="Page_130"></a> +was too old to follow. He went on until he +came across another trail, and evidently had +spent considerable time in making up his mind +whether it was worth while to follow this trail +or not. He then followed it for a few yards, +and, to my surprise, suddenly left it, and went +off almost at right angles to the leeward. I +supposed that he had given up the moose +trail, but nevertheless I followed further on +his track. Again to my surprise, I presently +found him gradually coming around in a circuitous +fashion to the trail again, until he +finally reached it. He then immediately retraced +his steps, making another semi-circle, +bearing generally, however, in the direction +the moose had gone, and again came to the +trail. This occurred four or five times, until +finally the explanation of his conduct flashed +upon me, for there lay his cartridge. I saw—as +he afterward described it to me—where he +had shot at the moose, which had just arisen +out of its bed a short distance away, but, as +usual, he had missed it. Now I had noticed, +in my three weeks' experience, that I had +come upon the moose either lying down or +standing in some thicket, but that they had +been able to wind me considerably before my<a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a> +arrival at the spot marked by their beds in +the snow. Not until then had occurred to me +what is well known to many who still-hunt +moose, namely, that before lying down they +generally make a long loop to the leeward, +returning close to their trail, so that they +can readily get the wind of anyone following +upon it long before he reaches them, when, of +course, they quietly get up and sneak away. +In fact, they do not seem to have an atom of +curiosity in their composition, and in this are +different from most other wild animals that I +have known. By making these long loops to +the leeward the hunter reduces to a minimum +the likelihood of being smelt or heard by the +moose; and in these animals the senses of +smell and hearing are very acute, although +their eyesight seems to be bad.</p> + +<p>Having quite satisfied myself as to what it +was necessary to do, I waited until the next +day to put it into execution, because by the +time I had made my discovery it was about +half past 2 o'clock, and the sun was near the +horizon.</p> + +<p>The following day I went out bright and +early, and, after varying success in finding a +good trail, I ran across a trail made by five<a name="Page_132" id="Page_132"></a> +bull moose, a photograph of one of which is +shown. After satisfying myself that the trail +had been made during the previous night, I +began making the long loops to the leeward +which I had found to be so necessary. I +finally came to the place where the moose had +lain down—a bed showing one of them to +have unusually large horns—but they had +gone on again, in a manner, however, that +showed that they were merely feeding, and +not alarmed. I redoubled my precautions, +stepping as if on eggs, so as not to break the +twigs underneath my feet. In a short time I +heard the significant chattering of one of the +little red pine squirrels so abundant in that +region. I at once knew that the squirrel had +seen something, but had not seen me. It did +not take me long to make up my mind that +the only other living things in that vicinity +which would be likely to cause him to chatter +were these moose, and that they were probably +startled, although I had not been conscious +of making any noise. At any rate, I +ran quite rapidly toward the end of a small +narrow muskeg on my left, but some distance +away, to which chance conclusion and prompt +action I owe probably one of the most fortu<a name="Page_133" id="Page_133"></a>nate +and exciting pieces of shooting that has +occurred in my experience. I was shooting at +that time a little double rifle (.450-120-375 +solid bullet), which had been made for me by +Holland & Holland, and which was fitted with +one of my conical sights.</p> + +<p>Before I was within fifty yards of the end +of the muskeg, I saw one of the moose dash +across it, about 150 yards away. I fired quickly, +and in much the same way that I would +shoot at a jacksnipe which had been flushed in +some thicket; but had the satisfaction of seeing +the animal lurch heavily forward as he +went out of sight into the timber. Almost +immediately, and before I had time to reload, +the second moose followed. I gave him the +other barrel, but I did not know until afterward +that he was hit. In fact, it was hard to +get a bullet through the timber. I reloaded +quickly, and ran forward to get to the opening; +but before I reached it, the third moose passed +in immediately behind the others. I again +shot quickly, and felt that I had probably hit +him. By running on rapidly I reached the +edge of the opening in time to intercept the +fourth moose. As he came into the opening I +got a good shot at him, not over eighty yards<a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a> +distant, and felt very sure of this one at least. +I then reloaded, when, to my amazement, the +fifth, in a very deliberate manner, walked, not +trotted, into the muskeg, which at the point +where the moose crossed it was not over sixty +or seventy feet wide. He first looked up and +down, as if undetermined what to do, and then, +probably seeing one of the other moose on the +ground, commenced walking up toward me. +As luck would have it, I got a cartridge jammed +in my rifle, and could not pull it out or +knock it in, although I nearly ruined my fingers +in my attempt to do so. Of course, this +was the biggest bull of all, and I had the supreme +satisfaction of seeing him deliberately +walk out of my sight into the woods, and he +was lost to me forever. His horns were much +larger than those which I got. Up to that +time I had no idea that I had killed any +except the last moose that I shot at, but +thought that perhaps I had wounded one or +two of the others, feeling that I would be very +lucky if I should ever come up with them.</p> + +<p>Going down to the place where the moose +had disappeared, after I had got my rifle fixed—that +is, had extracted the cartridge and put +in another—I found one of the moose dead;<a name="Page_135" id="Page_135"></a> +another, a big one, on his knees, and the +third a short distance away, looking very dejected +and uncomfortable. I did not know +then that the largest bull of all had stopped +on the other side of a little thicket; and when +I commenced to give the finishing touches to +the wounded moose in sight, he, accompanied +by another wounded one, got away. As I shot +the big one on his knees, I was surprised by a +noise, and upon turning around found the dejected +looking small bull coming full drive toward +me. I had only time to turn around and +shoot him in the breast before he was on me. +I do not think that he intended to charge; his +coming toward me was probably entirely accidental. +Still it had the effect of sending my +heart in my mouth. I then started out after +the wounded one, but when I saw that he was +not bleeding much concluded that, as it was +growing late, and I was seven or eight miles +from camp, I would not have more than time +to cover up the three moose with snow so that +I could skin them the next morning. Before +doing so, however, I sat down on top of my +biggest moose, and, as these were the first +moose that I had ever seen, I surveyed them +with a great deal of satisfaction.<a name="Page_136" id="Page_136"></a></p> + +<p>About this time Phillips, who had been attracted +by the shooting, appeared in the distance, +and I hailed him by a shot, when he +came to me. We then carefully covered up +the moose with snow and pulled out for camp. +When we arrived there and told our story, a +more disconsolate looking Indian you could +not have found in the whole region, and he +doubtless came to the conclusion that his +sweeping assertion as to the inability of a +white man to kill a moose in that country +was perhaps a little too broad.</p> + +<p>Our luck seemed to turn from this time and +we got several very good moose, but unfortunately +no other large heads. After telling this +story I do not wish to go upon record as a +game slaughterer, for those who know anything +of my hunting know that I am strongly +opposed to anything of the kind. We usually +have killed only enough game for meat in +camp, but at this time we had to feed beside +ourselves ten dogs. Moreover, I have never +thought that the killing of bulls made very +much difference in the amount of the game, +although in shooting them we have usually +made it a rule to kill only such heads as we +wished to take home. I should add, moreover,<a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a> +that all the meat that we did not use of the +moose that we killed in this country was distributed +among some Indians whom we met +on our return, and who, hearing of our luck, +followed our dog trail to the hunting grounds +after our departure.</p> + +<p>Having had enough moose hunting, and +anxious to kill caribou, we concluded to cross +Lake Winnipeg, which by this time—early +in December—was frozen hard with nearly six +feet of ice, the cracking of which, especially at +night, produces a very curious and never-to-be-forgotten +sound, which can be heard for miles. +We soon reached the lake, but were detained +a day or two waiting for a favorable day to +cross—that is to say, one when the wind did +not blow, as when it does the exposure in +crossing on the ice is terrific. After finally +venturing upon the ice, we made some forty or +fifty miles the first day, and reached the edge +of an island, in the middle of which there were +a few houses occupied principally by Icelandic +immigrants. These earn a precarious livelihood +by fishing for whitefish and jackfish principally +in the summer. They keep up this +fishing all through the winter, however, to +supply their own needs, by setting their nets<a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a> +underneath the ice, employing a very simple +method, which, if De Long and his party had +known and provided for, they would never +have perished so miserably in the Lena delta. +Here we were witnesses to the fact which entitles +us to claim that the common domestic +cow is not, strictly speaking, properly to be +classed among the <i>herbivora</i>. We distinctly +saw a very ordinary looking cow devour with +evident relish, while she was being milked, a +large jackfish, which had been taken from a +frozen pile stacked up outside of the house +and thawed for her evening meal.</p> + +<p>These Icelanders live as a rule in a primitive +but very comfortable way. They are +much more neat and cleanly than many of the +immigrants who come to the United States, +and it is a pity that we do not have them in +this country, for they seem to be very industrious +and would make good citizens. However, +it is probable that they were in search of +cold weather, and would not be happy unless +they had it. If this is the case, they most certainly +have chosen the best spot on this continent +which is at all accessible; for the region +around Lake Winnipeg is, I am told, one of +the coldest places where any reliable record<a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a> +of the temperature is kept. During our trip, +and especially while we were on the east side +of the lake, the temperatures recorded were +very low, often 45 degrees below zero. In +fact, during our absence there was a record +of 50 degrees below zero at Selkirk and +Winnipeg; and, as we were over a hundred +miles to the north, it is not unreasonable to +suppose that the temperature was quite as +low, if not lower, with us. It must not be forgotten, +however, that, except for the cracking +of the frozen trees, it is deathly still and quiet +in these regions when the temperature drops +to 10 degrees below zero. Indeed, when the +temperature is below that point, it is usually +much more comfortable for one who is out in +such weather than a temperature of zero, or +even 20 degrees above, with a heavy wind. +Under these conditions, however, an ordinary +man when out hunting cannot occasionally sit +down on a log and smoke his pipe, for any +length of time, with a great amount of pleasure. +Like the persecuted boy in the play, +although there are no policemen about, he is +compelled, and indeed is usually perfectly willing, +to keep "movin' on."</p> + +<p>After leaving Big Island, as I remember the<a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a> +name, we made our way across to the mouth +of the Bad Throat River, where there was an +old lumber camp, which a great many years +ago was the scene of an important conflict between +the Hudson Bay Company's men and +the men of the Northwest Fur Company, in +which quite a number were killed. Here we +got another team of dogs, and picked up another +member for our party in the person of an +Englishman, who by choice had drifted into +this country and lived there, marrying an Indian +squaw shortly after our return. Unfortunately, +the good old-fashioned plan of performing +the marriage ceremony by running +together under a blanket had been abolished, +so he had to wait until the yearly visit of the +priest. This marrying of squaws is of course +common among the white men of this region.</p> + +<p>As we had only a few things to get before +starting out for the famous caribou country +between the head waters of the Hole, the Askandoga +and the Blood Vein rivers, we were +not delayed long at this place. The snow was +now quite heavy, at least enough so for comfortable +snowshoe traveling, and we made +rapid time after leaving the Bad Throat River. +In this connection it is to be remarked that<a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a> +comparatively little snow falls in this region. +This seems singular, and I do not know the +meteorological explanation of the fact. There +is certainly very much less, for instance, +than in Minnesota, hundreds of miles to the +south. The snow, however, is usually a dry +powder all through winter, and very rarely +becomes crusted.</p> + +<p>In traveling over broken timbered country +with dog-sleds, very much the same routes are +followed that one takes with a canoe in summer—that +is to say, you avoid the rough +country by traveling on the rivers, which are +usually covered with thick ice, or over the +same portages that are used in summer. It +was necessary for either Penrose, Keller or +myself to lead the way with our snowshoes, +while the others took care of the dog-sleds +behind. The dogs followed accurately in the +trail beaten out by our snowshoes for them.</p> + +<p>The country on this side of the lake, unlike +that of the west, is very rough, rocky and rugged, +and especially so near the lake shore. It +is quite thickly timbered. As one advances +into the interior, however, this aspect changes, +so that the country near the height of land is +more open, and there are long stretches of<a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a> +nearly level country traversed by rocky, moss-covered +and roughly parallel ridges. There is +more or less timber on these ridges, and in the +so-called muskegs between them. This is the +country which the caribou seem to prefer.</p> + +<p>After about two weeks' hard traveling, we +reached the country which had been recommended +to us and came upon great abundance +of caribou sign. In fact, there were millions +of tracks, but, curiously enough, no caribou +were to be seen. We afterward found that +they had been driven out by a lot of wolves, +which probably had followed them down from +the north. While this explanation was interesting, +it was not productive of any great +amount of satisfaction to the party, for we had +been counting definitely upon fresh meat, and +so had our dogs. At least, after doing the terrific +work necessary to make this journey, it is +fair to presume that they had counted upon +being fed, and not being left to starve miserably +while tied to a tree.</p> + +<p>To add to our hardships, our Indian tepee, +made of canvas, began to smoke so excessively +as to cause us the greatest discomfort, +and we all thought we had pneumonia; +but afterward concluded it was nothing but<a name="Page_143" id="Page_143"></a> +irritation of the lungs, due to breathing pine +smoke a good many hours each day. In fact, +it was almost unbearable. An Indian tepee +of this kind, properly made by a squaw, is beyond +doubt the most comfortable of all hunting +tents in any respectable climate; but in a +climate of 40 degrees below zero it is an +abomination. We used frequently to crawl +into our sheep-skin sleeping bags, wrap several +blankets around the bags and put the fire out, +merely to get relief from the annoyance of the +smoke. In the morning the steam which arose +from our bodies, and from the meal which we +might be cooking, got mixed up with the +smoke, so that it was impossible to distinguish +each other when four feet apart. In fact, we +were sometimes inclined to think that the dogs +on the outside were better off than ourselves, +though the appearance they presented in the +morning was not such as to cause us to wish +to change places with them. They were each +tied by a short chain to the pine trees about +the camp, and after a night of low temperature +there were to be seen in the morning only +twelve white mounds of snow; not that any +snow had fallen during the night, or that the +dogs had crawled underneath that already on<a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a> +the ground. Their white appearance was simply +due to the dense coating of frost which +had been produced from the condensation +caused by the heat of their bodies. It must +not be forgotten, however, that they are as +hardy and as well able to withstand this rigorous +climate as the wolves, from which many of +them are directly descended. All of the so-called +"huskies" are of this type.</p> + +<p>Altogether things were not very pleasant +about this time. Our Christmas Day rations +consisted of one small roll each with a little +coffee for breakfast, and in the evening each +man was given a small piece of rabbit.</p> + +<p>The rabbits in this country were unfortunately +not as abundant as they were on the +opposite side of the lake, where the Indian +boy one day went out with one of our rifles to +visit his rabbit snares and to shoot rabbits for +the dogs. Before long we heard him shoot +four times. He came back to camp with eight +rabbits, which had certainly been killed with +the rifle, none of them having been snared.</p> + +<p>Those of us who were able to hunt at all +hunted with the greatest perseverance, but +with little success, until finally some one +brought in the report that caribou had been<a name="Page_145" id="Page_145"></a> +seen, and in a very few days the country again +contained numbers of them.</p> + +<p>One morning, shortly after the first caribou +had been seen, Keller, who had been quite +sick, was unable longer to tolerate the smoke +of the tepee, and took a little walk with +his rifle close around our camp. He soon +came upon the fresh trail of a bunch of caribou. +He had followed it only a few hundred +yards when he saw one of the caribou lying +down. He is a dead shot, the best I have +ever known in my life. He carefully steadied +himself, raised his .45-90 Winchester, aimed at +the caribou lying down and fired. When he +went up to look at it, to his amazement, +he came across another dead caribou, between +the spot where he had fired and the one at +which he had aimed. It had been shot straight +through the temples. On going further, he +found the other caribou shot exactly where he +had aimed at it, some twenty yards distant +from the first one. The only possible way in +which he could explain this remarkable occurrence +is that the caribou which had been shot +through the head, and which he had not seen, +had risen out of its bed just as he was in the +act of firing and interposed his head directly<a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a> +in the line of fire. The fact of having fresh +meat in camp, of course, brought great joy to +us all, and especially to the semi-starved dogs. +As in the case of killing the first moose, it +seemed to have the effect of changing our +luck, for we afterward killed a number of caribou, +although we were not successful in getting +good heads.</p> + +<p>These caribou are totally different from the +moose in the kind of food they live upon and +in their general habits. They prefer a different +sort of a country, the two rarely being +found together. They spend much of their +time in the muskegs, which seem to be characteristic +of all of that region of the country; but +these muskegs are not open, like those on the +west side of the lake, being more or less covered +with a growth of stubby jack pine, from +which usually hangs an abundance of long gray +moss. The caribou feed upon this moss, while +the moose, on the other hand, are fond of the +tender sprouts of the red and gray willow. +The caribou, however, are often found on the +rocky ridges, where they find good feed on the +moss growing upon the rocks. Indeed, they +seem to have no settled place of abode, like +moose, being probably one of the most rest<a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a>less +animals on the face of the earth. They +seem to be always on the move. Unlike the +moose, they are very inquisitive, in this respect +being more like the antelope than any other +animal. They are found singly, or in twos or +threes, or in small bunches of ten to twenty, +but often in great herds of a hundred or perhaps +a thousand. They spend a great deal of +their time on the lakes in the winter, where +they play with each other like kittens. They +are wonderfully quick in their actions. They +are also very sure of their footing, and we saw +a number of places in the snow where they +had slid down quite steep rocks for some distance, +probably by putting their four feet close +together. Great herds often come down from +the region on the western shore of Hudson +Bay and return the following summer.</p> + +<p>Very few people have any idea of the immense +numbers of caribou which are found in +the great tract of country to the west of Hudson +Bay. By many who are familiar with +this country they are believed to be as numerous +as the buffaloes ever were in the early +days. When more or less scarce, as they +were during the greater portion of our hunt, +they afford excellent hunting; but I should<a name="Page_148" id="Page_148"></a> +imagine that when they are very numerous +there would be little sport in killing them, for +as a rule they are not at all shy or difficult to +approach. In general it may be said that the +caribou of this region, known as the woodland +caribou, live in the wooded districts during +the summer and autumn, but in the winter +time go to the higher land. Wind and cold +seem to have no terror for them, and I doubt +very much whether there is an animal in the +world, with the exception perhaps of the +musk-ox or the polar bear, that is so well +fitted by nature to withstand the intense cold +of the region in which they live. When one +sees a caribou's track for the first time, he is +amazed at its size, and its difference from the +long, narrow, sharp-toed track of the moose, +and naturally comes to the conclusion that the +animal must be much larger than it really is. +As a matter of fact, they are not much larger +than the black-tailed deer, and considerably +smaller than the elk of the Rocky Mountains. +Until he has seen them, one is likely to imagine +that the caribou is an ungainly, misshapen +animal. This is a great mistake. Not only +are they as a rule well proportioned, but they +are extremely graceful. Their curious horns<a name="Page_149" id="Page_149"></a> +give them, of course, rather an odd appearance. +The meat we found to be delicious, +and rather better than moose meat.</p> + +<p>After having remained as long as we desired +in this country, and as long as we could +stand the infernal smoke of the tepee, and +after having secured a good supply of meat +for our return journey, we loaded our toboggans +and retraced our steps without especial +incident to the mouth of the Bad Throat +River. From there we took a sleigh to Selkirk, +driving over the lake on the ice, and +arriving at Selkirk the latter part of January +or the 1st of February.</p> + +<p>To those who may contemplate taking a +similar trip to the Canadian woods in winter, I +would say that it will prove a very interesting +and never-to-be-forgotten experience, and that +the hardships of such a trip are not necessarily +severe if one will be guided entirely by the advice +of the inhabitants of the region, especially +as to his clothing and general outfit. I feel +certain that, if one goes to the right locality, +not only will he get good sport, but he will +get it under very pleasant and novel conditions, +and return home more benefited in +every way than if he had taken a trip of the<a name="Page_150" id="Page_150"></a> +same duration to some warm climate. Under +no circumstances, however, let him imagine +that he knows more than the people of the +country as to what he should do and wear.</p> + +<p class="signature2">D. M. Barringer.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a> +<a name="CHAPTER_6" id="CHAPTER_6"></a> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="outeshai"></a> + +<img src="images/i008.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="526"> +<p class="caption">OUTESHAI, RUSSIAN BARZOI.</p></div> + +<h2>Wolf-Hunting in Russia</h2> + + +<p>The enormous extent and diversified conditions +of the various localities of this empire +would naturally suggest a variety of sport in +hunting and shooting, including perhaps something +characteristic. In the use of dogs of the +chase especially is this suggestion borne out +by the facts, and it has been said that in no +other country has the systematic working together +of fox-hounds and greyhounds been successfully +carried out.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, this sort of hunting is not +now so general as prior to the emancipation of +the serfs in 1861. A modest kennel for such +sport consists of six to ten fox-hounds and four +to six pairs of barzois,<a name="FNanchor_1" id="FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and naturally demands +considerable attention. Moreover, to use it +requires the presence of at least one man with +the fox-hounds and one man for each pair or +each three greyhounds. To have a sufficient +number of good huntsmen at his service was<a name="Page_152" id="Page_152"></a> +formerly a much less expensive luxury to a +proprietor than now, and to this fact is due +the decline of the combined kennel in Russia.</p> + + +<p>This hunt is more or less practised throughout +the entire extent of the Russian Empire. +In the south, where the soil is not boggy, it is +far better sport than in Northern Russia, where +there are such enormous stretches of marshy +woods and tundra. Curiously enough, nearly +all the game of these northern latitudes, including +moose, wolves, hares, and nearly all +kinds of grouse and other birds, seem to be +found in the marshiest places—those almost +impracticable to mounted hunters.</p> + +<p>Though the distances covered in hunting, +and also in making neighborly visits in Russia, +are vast, often recalling our own broad Western +life, yet in few other respects are any similarities +to be traced. This is especially true of +Russia north of the Moscow parallel; for in +the south the steppes have much in common +with the prairies, though more extensive, and +the semi-nomadic Cossacks, in their mounted +peregrinations and in their pastoral life, have +many traits in common with real Americans. +Nor is it true of the Caucasus, where it would +seem that the Creator, dissatisfied with the<a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a> +excess of the great plain,<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> extending from the +Finnish Gulf to the Black Sea, resolved to +establish a counterpoise, and so heaved up the +gigantic Caucasus. There too are to be found +fine hunting and shooting, which merit description +and which offer good sport to mountain +amateurs.</p> + +<p>The annual hunt in the fall of 1893 in the +governments of Tver and Yaroslav, with the +Gatchino kennels, will give a good idea of +the special sport of which I have spoken. It +is imperative that these hounds go to the hunt +once a year for about a month, although for +the most part without their owner. The master +of the hunt and his assistant, with three or +four guests, and oftentimes the proprietors of +the lands where the hounds happen to hunt, +usually constitute the party. The hunt changes +locality nearly every year, but rarely does it go +further from home than on this occasion, about +450 versts from Gatchino. As a rule it is not +difficult to obtain from proprietors permission +to hunt upon their estates, and this is somewhat +surprising to one who has seen the freedom +with which the fences are torn down and<a name="Page_154" id="Page_154"></a> +left unrepaired. It is true that they are not of +the strongest and best type, and that peasant +labor is still very cheap; yet such concessions +to sport would rarely be made in America.</p> + +<p>It was at Gatchino, on the 10th day of September, +that the hunting train was loaded with +men, horses, dogs, provisions and wagons. The +hunt called for twenty-two cars in all, including +one second-class passenger car, in one end +of which four of us made ourselves comfortable, +while in the other end servants found +places. The weather was cold and rainy, and, +as our train traveled as a freight, we had two +nights before us. It was truly a picturesque +and rare sight to see a train of twenty-two cars +loaded with the <i>personnel</i>, material and live +stock of a huge kennel. The fox-hounds, seventy +in number, were driven down in perfect, +close order by the beaters to the cracks of the +Russian hunting whip and installed in their +car, which barely offered them sufficient accommodation. +The greyhounds, three sorts, +sixty-seven in number, were brought down on +leashes by threes, fours or fives, and loaded in +two cars. Sixty saddle and draft horses, with +saddles, wagons and hunting paraphernalia, +were also loaded. Finally the forty-four gray<a name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a> +and green uniformed huntsmen, beaters, drivers +and ourselves were ready, and the motley +train moved away amid the uttered and unuttered +benedictions of the families and relatives +of the parting hunt.</p> + +<p>Our first destination was Peschalkino, in the +government of Tver, near the River Leet, a +tributary of the Volga, not far from the site of +the first considerable check of the Mongolian +advance about 1230. I mention this fact in +passing to give some idea of the <i>terrain</i>, because +I think that it is evident to anyone who +has visited this region that the difficulty of +provisioning and of transportation in these +marshes must have offered a greater obstacle +to an invading army than did the then defenders +of their country.</p> + +<p>We passed our time most agreeably in playing +vint<a name="FNanchor_3" id="FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> and talking of hunting incidents along +the route. Many interesting things were told +about the habits of wolves and other game, and, +as they were vouched for by two thorough gentlemen +and superb sportsmen, and were verified +as far as a month's experience in the field +would permit, I feel authorized to cite them +as facts.</p> + + +<p>The bear has been called in folk-lore the +moujik's brother, and it must be conceded that +there are outward points of resemblance, especially +when each is clad in winter attire; +moreover the moujik, when all is snow and ice, +fast approximates the hibernating qualities of +the bear. One strong point of difference is +the accentuated segregative character of the +former, who always live in long cabin villages.<a name="FNanchor_4" id="FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> + +<p>But it is rather of the wolf's habits and domestic +economy that I wish to speak—of him +who has always been the dreaded and accursed +enemy of the Russian peasant. In the question +of government the wolf follows very closely the +system of the country, which is pre-eminently +patriarchal—the fundamental principle of the +<i>mir</i>. A family of wolves may vary in number +from six to twenty, and contain two to four +generations, usually two or three, yet there is +always one chief and one wife—in other words, +never more than one female with young ones. +When larger packs have been seen together +it was probably the temporary marshaling of +their forces for some desperate raid or the pre<a name="Page_157" id="Page_157"></a>liminaries +of an anarchistic strike. The choruses +of wolves and the special training of the +young for them are interesting characteristics. +Upon these choruses depends the decision of +the hunter whether or not to make his final +attack upon the stronghold of the wolves; by +them he can tell with great precision the number +in the family and the ages of the different +members. They are to wolf-hunters what tracks +are to moose- and bear-hunters—they serve to +locate the game. When the family is at home +they occur with great regularity at twilight, +midnight and dawn.</p> + +<p>In camp near Billings, Montana, in the fall +of 1882, we heard nightly about 12 o'clock the +howling of a small pack of coyotes; but we +supposed that it was simply a "howling protest" +against the railway train, passing our +camp at midnight, that had just reached that +part of the world. Possibly our coyotes have +also howling choruses at regular intervals, like +the Russian wolves.</p> + +<p>There was such a fascination in listening to +the wolves that we went out several times +solely for that purpose. The weirdness of the +sound and the desolateness of the surroundings +produced peculiar sensations upon the listener.<a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a> +To an enthusiastic lover of sport and nature +these pleasurable sensations might be well +compared with the effect of the Niebelungen +songs upon an ardent Wagnerite. The old +professional huntsmen could tell just what +members of the family and how many were +howling; they scarcely disagreed upon these +points.</p> + +<p>These old hunters pretended to interpret +the noisy assemblies of the wolves as regards +content or discontent, satisfaction or dissatisfaction.</p> + +<p>Owing to the difficulty of securing wolves +under most favorable circumstances, especially +old ones, it would be considered folly to make +a drive if the matinal howl had not been +heard. But to make a successful drive in a +large marshy forest many beaters must be employed, +and, as they are gathered from far and +near, considerable time is necessary to collect +them; therefore it is almost essential to know +that the wolves were "at home" at midnight +as well as dawn.</p> + +<p>While in the vicinity of a certain wolf family +whose habitat was an enormous marshy wood, +entirely impossible to mounted men, we were +compelled to await for forty-eight hours the re<a name="Page_159" id="Page_159"></a>turn +of the old ones, father and mother. At +times during this wait only the young ones, at +other times the young and the intermediate +ones, would sing. Not hearing the old ones, +we inferred they were absent, and so they +were—off on a raid, during which they killed +two peasant horses ten miles from their stronghold. +It was supposed that the wolves of intermediate +age also made excursions during +this time, as indicated by the howlings, but not +to such great distances as the old ones. It +was perfectly apparent, as we listened one +evening, that the old ones had placed the +young ones about a verst away and were making +them answer independently. This seemed +too human for wolves.</p> + +<p>After one day and two nights of travel we +arrived at the little station of Peschalkino, on +the Bologoe-Rybinsk Railway, not far from +the frontier between the two governments, +Tver and Yaroslav, where we were met by +two officers of the guard, a Yellow Cuirassier +and a Preobiajensky, on leave of absence on +their estates (Koy), sixteen versts from the +rail. They were brothers-in-law and keen +sportsmen, who became members of our party +and who indicated the best localities for game<a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a> +on their property, as well as on the adjoining +estates.</p> + +<p>Peschalkino boasts a painted country tavern +of two stories, the upper of which, with side +entrance, we occupied, using our own beds and +bed linen, table and table linen, cooking and +kitchen utensils; in fact, it was a hotel where +we engaged the walled-in space and the brick +cooking stove. As to the huntsmen and the +dogs, they were quartered in the adjacent unpainted +log-house peasant village—just such +villages as are seen all over Russia, in which a +mud road, with plenty of mud, comprises all +there is of streets and avenues. After having +arranged our temporary domicile, and having +carefully examined horses and dogs to see how +they had endured the journey, we made ready +to accept a dinner invitation at the country +place of our new members. Horses were put +to the brake, called by the Russians <i>Amerikanka</i> +(American), and we set out for a drive +of sixteen versts over a mud road to enjoy +the well-known Slav hospitality so deeply engrafted +in the Ponamaroff family.</p> + +<p>I said road, but in reality it scarcely merits +the name, as it is neither fenced nor limited in +width other than by the sweet will of the trav<a name="Page_161" id="Page_161"></a>eler. +Special mention is made of this road +because its counterparts exist all over the empire. +It is the usual road, and not the exception, +which is worse, as many persons have +ample reasons for knowing. This condition +is easily explained by the scarcity of stone, +the inherent disregard of comfort, the poverty +of the peasants, the absence of a yeoman +class, and the great expense that would be +entailed upon the landed proprietors, who live +at enormous distances from each other. The +country in these and many other governments +has been civilized many generations, but so +unfinished and primitive does it all seem that +it recalls many localities of our West, where +civilization appeared but yesterday, and where +to-morrow it will be well in advance of these +provinces. The hand-flail, the wooden plow-share, +the log cabin with stable under the +same roof, could have been seen here in the +twelfth century as they are at present. Thanks +to the Moscow factories, the gala attire of the +peasant of to-day may possibly surpass in brilliancy +of color that of his remote ancestry, +which was clad entirely from the home loom. +With the exception of the white brick churches, +whose tall green and white spires in the<a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a> +distance appear at intervals of eight to ten +versts, and of occasional painted window casings, +there is nothing to indicate that the colorings +of time and nature are not preferable +to those of art. The predominating features +of the landscape are the windmills and the +evenness of the grain-producing country, dotted +here and there by clumps of woods, called +islands. The churches, too, are conspicuous +by their number, size, and beauty of architecture; +school-houses, by their absence. Prior to +1861 there must have been a veritable mania +here for church-building. The large and beautiful +church at Koy, as well as two other pretentious +brick ones, were constructed on his +estates by the grandfather of our host.</p> + +<p>Arrived at Koy, we found a splendid country +place, with brick buildings, beautiful gardens, +several hot-houses and other luxuries, all +of which appeared the more impressive by contrast. +The reception and hospitality accorded +us at Koy—where we were highly entertained +with singing, dancing and cards until midnight—was +as bounteous as the darkness and rainfall +which awaited us on the sixteen versts' +drive over roadless roads back to our quarter +bivouac at Peschalkino.<a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a></p> + +<p>The following morning marked the beginning +of our hunting. About 10 o'clock all was +in readiness. Every hunter<a name="FNanchor_5" id="FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> had been provided +with a leash, a knife and a whip; and, +naturally, every huntsman with the two latter. +In order to increase the number of posts, +some of the huntsmen were also charged with +leashes of greyhounds. I shall in the future +use the word greyhound to describe all the +sight hounds, in contradistinction to fox-hound; +it includes barzois (Russian greyhounds), +greyhounds (English) and crosses +between the two. The barzois numbered +about 75 per cent. of all the greyhounds, and +were for the most part somewhat less speedy +than the real greyhounds, but better adapted +for wolf-hunting. They also have greater +skill in taking hold, and this, even in hare +coursing, sometimes gives them advantage +over faster dogs. One of the most interesting +features of the coursing was the matching of +Russian and English greyhounds. The leash +system used in the field offers practically the +same fairness as is shown by dogs at regular +coursing matches. The leash is a black nar<a name="Page_164" id="Page_164"></a>row +leather thong about fifteen feet long, with +a loop at one end that passes over the right +shoulder and under the left arm. The long +thong with a slit at the end, forming the hand +loop, is, when not in use, folded up like a lariat +or a driving rein, and is stuck under the knife +belt. To use it, the end is put through the +loop-ring collars, which the greyhounds continually +wear, and is then held fast in the left +hand until ready to slip the hounds. Where +the country is at all brushy, three dogs are the +practical limit of one leash, still for the most +part only two are employed. It is surprising +to see how quickly the dogs learn the leash +with mounted huntsmen; two or three days +are sufficient to teach them to remain at the +side of the horse and at a safe distance from +his feet. Upon seeing this use of the leash +with two dogs each, I was curious to know +why it should be so; why it would not be +more exciting to see half a dozen or more +hounds in hot pursuit racing against each +other and having a common goal, just as it +is more exciting to see a horse race with a +numerous entry than merely with two competitors. +This could have been remedied, so +I thought, by having horsemen go in pairs,<a name="Page_165" id="Page_165"></a> +or having several dogs when possible on one +leash. Practice showed the wisdom of the +methods actually employed. In the first place, +it is fairer for the game; in the second, it +saves the dogs; and finally, it allows a greater +territory to be hunted over with the same +number of dogs.</p> + +<p>There are two ways of hunting foxes and +hares, and, with certain variations, wolves also. +These are, by beating and driving with fox-hounds, +and by open driving with greyhounds +alone. In the first case a particular wood +(island) is selected, and the fox-hounds with +their mounted huntsmen are sent to drive it +in a certain direction. The various leashes of +greyhounds (barzois alone if wolves be expected) +are posted on the opposite side, at the +edge of the wood or in the field, and are +loosed the second the game has shown its intention +of clearing the open space expressly +selected for the leash. The mounted beaters +with the fox-hounds approach the thick woods +of evergreens, cottonwood, birch and undergrowth, +and wait on its outskirts until a bugle +signal informs them that all the greyhound +posts are ready. The fox-hounds recognize +the signal, and would start immediately were<a name="Page_166" id="Page_166"></a> +they not terrorized by the black <i>nagaika</i>—a +product of a country that has from remotest +times preferred the knout<a name="FNanchor_6" id="FNanchor_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> to the gallows, and +so is skilled in its manufacture and use. At +the word <i>go</i> from the chief beater the seventy +fox-hounds, which have been huddled up as +closely as the encircling beaters could make +them, rush into the woods. In a few minutes, +sometimes seconds, the music begins—and +what music! I really think there are too +many musicians, for the voices not being classified, +there is no individuality, but simply a +prolonged howl. For my part, I prefer fewer +hounds, where the individual voices may be +distinguished. It seemed to be a needless use +of so many good dogs, for half the number +would drive as well; but they were out for +exercise and training, and they must have it. +Subsequently the pack was divided into two, +but this was not necessitated by fatigue of the<a name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a> +hounds, for we hunted on alternate days with +greyhounds alone.</p> + +<p>One could well believe that foxes might remain +a long time in the woods, even when +pursued by such noise; but it seemed to me +that the hares<a name="FNanchor_7" id="FNanchor_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> would have passed the line of +posts more quickly than they did. At the +suitable moment, when the game was seen, +the nearest leash was slipped, and when they +seemed to be on the point of losing another +and sometimes a third was slipped. The poor +fox-hounds were not allowed to leave the +woods; the moment the game appeared in the +open space they were driven back by the stiff +riders with their cruel whips. The true fox-hound +blood showed itself, and to succeed in +beating some of them off the trail, especially +the young ones, required most rigorous action +on the part of all. This seemed to me a prostitution +of the good qualities of a race carefully +bred for centuries, and, while realizing +the necessity of the practice for that variety<a name="Page_168" id="Page_168"></a> +of hunt, I could never look upon it with complaisance.</p> + +<p>It is just this sort of hunt<a name="FNanchor_8" id="FNanchor_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> for which the +barzoi has been specially bred, and which has +developed in him a tremendous spring; at the +same time it has given him less endurance +than the English greyhound. It was highly +interesting to follow the hounds with the beaters; +but, owing to the thickness of the woods +and the absence of trails, it was far from being +an easy task either for horse or rider. To remain +at a post with a leash of hounds was +hardly active or exciting enough for me—except +when driving wolves—especially when the +hounds could be followed, or when the open +hunt could be enjoyed. In the second case the +hunters and huntsmen with leashes form a line +with intervals of 100 to 150 yards and march +for versts straight across the country, cracking +the terrible <i>nagaika</i> and uttering peculiar exciting +yells that would start game on a parade<a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a> +ground. After a few days I flattered myself +that I could manage my leash fairly and slip +them passably well. To two or three of the +party leashes were not intrusted, either because +they did not desire them or for their +want of experience in general with dogs and +horses. To handle a leash well requires experience +and considerable care. To prevent +tangling in the horse's legs, especially at the +moment the game is sighted, requires that the +hounds be held well in hand, and that they be +not slipped until both have sighted the game. +I much prefer the open hunt to the post system. +There is more action, and in fact more +sport, whether it happens that one or several +leashes be slipped for the same animal. When +it is not possible to know whose dogs have +taken the game, it belongs to him who arrived +first, providing that he has slipped his leash.</p> + +<p>So much for the foxes and hares, but the +more interesting hunting of wolves remains. +Few people except wolf-hunters—and they +are reluctant to admit it—know how rarely +old wolves are caught with hounds. All admit +the danger of taking an old one either by a +dagger thrust or alive from under<a name="FNanchor_9" id="FNanchor_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> barzois,<a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a> +however good they be. There is always a +possibility that the dogs may loosen their hold +or be thrown off just at the critical moment. +But the greatest difficulty consists in the inability +of the hounds to hold the wolf even +when they have overtaken him. When it is +remembered that a full-grown wolf is nearly +twice as heavy as the average barzoi, and that +pound for pound he is stronger, it is clear that +to overtake and hold him requires great speed +and grit on the part of a pair of hounds.</p> + +<p>A famous kennel,<a name="FNanchor_10" id="FNanchor_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> which two years since +caught forty-six wolves by the combined system +of hunting, took in that number but one +old wolf—that is, three years or more old. +The same kennel last year caught twenty-six +without having a single old one in the number. +We likewise failed to include in our captures a +single old wolf. I mention these facts to correct +the false impression that exists with us +concerning the barzois, as evidenced by the +great disappointment when two years since a +pair, in one of the Western States, failed to +kill outright a full-grown timber wolf. At the +field trials on wolves, which take place twice +a year at Colomiaghi, near Petersburg, im<a name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></a>mediately +after the regular field trials on +hares, I have seen as many as five leashes +slipped before an old wolf could be taken, and +then it was done only with the greatest difficulty. +In fact, as much skill depends upon +the <i>borzatnik</i> (huntsman) as the dogs. Almost +the very second the dogs take hold he simply +falls from his horse upon the wolf and endeavors +to thrust the unbreakable handle of his +<i>nagaika</i> between the jaws of the animal; he +then wraps the lash around the wolf's nose +and head. If the hounds are able to hold +even a few seconds, the skilled <i>borzatnik</i> has +had sufficient time, but there is danger even to +the best. I saw an experienced man get a +thumb terribly lacerated while muzzling a wolf, +yet he succeeded, and in an incredibly short +time. On another occasion, even before the +brace of hounds had taken firm neck or ear +holds, I saw a bold devil of a huntsman swing +from his horse and in a twinkling lie prone +upon an old wolf's head. How this man, +whose pluck I shall always admire, was able +to muzzle the brute without injury to himself, +and with inefficient support from his hounds, +it is not easy to understand, though I was +within a few yards of the struggle. Such<a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a> +skill comes from long experience, indifference +to pain and, of course, pride in his profession.</p> + + +<p>Having hunted foxes and hares, and having +been shooting as often as the environs of Peschalkino +and our time allowed, we changed +our base to a village twenty-two versts distant +over the border in the government of Yaroslav. +It was a village like all others of this +grain and flax district, where the live stock +and poultry shared the same roof with their +owners. A family of eleven wolves had been +located about three versts from it by a pair of +huntsmen sent some days in advance; this explained +our arrival. In making this change, I +do not now recall that we saw a single house +other than those of the peasant villages and +the churches. I fancy that in the course of +time these peasants may have more enlightenment, +a greater ownership in the land, and +may possibly form a yeoman class. At the +present the change, slow as it is, seems to +point in that direction. With their limited +possessions, they are happy and devoted subjects. +The total of the interior decorations of +every house consists of icons, of cheap colored +pictures of the imperial family and of samovars. +In our lodgings, the house of the village<a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a> +<i>starost</i>, the three icons consumed a great part +of the wall surface, and were burdened with +decorations of various colored papers. No +one has ever touched upon peasant life in Russia +without mentioning the enormous brick +stove (<i>lezanka</i><a name="FNanchor_11" id="FNanchor_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>); and having on various hunts +profited by them, I mean to say a word in behalf +of their advantages. Even as early as +the middle of September the cold continuous +rains cause the gentle warmth of the <i>lezanka</i> +to be cordially appreciated. On it and in its +vicinity all temperatures may be found. Its +top offers a fine place for keeping guns, ammunition +and various articles free from moisture, +and for drying boots;<a name="FNanchor_12" id="FNanchor_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> while the horizontal +abutments constitute benches well adapted +to thawing out a chilled marrow, or a sleeping +place for those that like that sort of thing. A +generous space is also allowed for cooking purposes. +In point of architecture there is nothing +that can be claimed for it but stability; excepting +the interior upper surface of the oven, +there is not a single curve to break its right +lines. It harmonizes with the surroundings, +and in a word answers all the requirements of<a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a> +the owner as well as of the hunter, who always +preserves a warm remembrance of it.</p> + + +<p>The wolves were located in a large marshy +wood and, from information of the scouts based +on the midnight and dawn choruses, they were +reported "at home." Accordingly we prepared +for our visit with the greatest precautions. +When within a verst of the proposed curved +line upon which we were to take our stands +with barzois, all dismounted and proceeded +through the marsh on foot, making as little +noise as possible. The silence was occasionally +broken by the efforts of the barzois to +slip themselves after a cur belonging to one of +the peasant beaters, that insisted upon seeing +the sport at the most aggravating distance for +a sight hound. It was finally decided to slip +one good barzoi that, it was supposed, could +send the vexatious animal to another hunting +ground; but the cur, fortunately for himself, +suddenly disappeared and did not show himself +again.</p> + +<p>After wading a mile in the marshy bog, we +were at the beginning of the line of combat—if +there was to be any. The posts along this +line had been indicated by the chief huntsman +by blazing the small pine trees or by hanging<a name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></a> +a heap of moss on them. The nine posts were +established in silence along the arc of a circle +at distances from each other of about 150 +yards. My post was number four from the +beginning. In rear of it and of the adjoining +numbers a strong high cord fence was put up, +because it was supposed that near this part of +the line the old wolves would pass, and that +the barzois might not be able to stop them. +The existence of such fencing material as part +of the outfit of a wolf-hunter is strong evidence +of his estimate of a wolf's strength—it speaks +pages. The fence was concealed as much as +possible, so that the wolf with barzois at his +heels might not see it. The huntsmen stationed +there to welcome him on his arrival +were provided with fork-ended poles, intended +to hold him by the neck to the ground until +he was gagged and muzzled, or until he had +received a fatal dagger thrust.</p> + +<p>While we were forming the ambuscade—defensive +line—the regular beaters, with 200 +peasant men and women, and the fox-hounds, +were forming the attack.</p> + +<p>Everything seemed favorable except the incessant +cold rain and wind. In our zeal to +guard the usual crossings of the wolves, we<a name="Page_176" id="Page_176"></a> +ignored the direction of the wind, which the +wolves, however, cleverly profited by. It could +not have been very long after the hounds were +let go before they fell upon the entire family +of wolves, which they at once separated. The +shouts and screams of the peasants, mingled +with the noises of the several packs of hounds, +held us in excited attention. Now and then +this or that part of the pack would approach +the line, and, returning, pass out of hearing +in the extensive woods. The game had approached +within scenting distance, and, in spite +of the howling in the rear, had returned to depart +by the right or left flank of the beaters. +As the barking of the hounds came near the +line, the holders of the barzois, momentarily +hoping to see a wolf or wolves, waited in +almost breathless expectancy. Each one was +prepared with a knife to rush upon an old +wolf to support his pair; but unfortunately +only two wolves came to our line, and they +were not two years old. They were taken at +the extreme left flank, so far away that I could +not even see the killing. I was disappointed, +and felt that a great mistake had been made +in not paying sufficient attention to the direction +of the wind. Where is the hunter who<a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a> +has not had his full share of disappointments +when all prospects seemed favorable? As often +happens, it was the persons occupying the +least favorable places who had bagged the +game. They said that in one case the barzois +had held the wolf splendidly until the fatal +thrust; but that in the other case it had been +necessary to slip a second pair before it could +be taken. These young wolves were considerably +larger than old coyotes.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="foxhounds"></a> + +<img src="images/i009.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="442"> +<p class="caption">FOXHOUNDS OF THE IMPERIAL KENNELS.</p></div> + + +<p>So great was the forest hunted that for +nearly two hours we had occupied our posts +listening to the spasmodic trailing of the +hounds and the yelling of the peasants. Finally +all the beaters and peasants reached our +line, and the drive was over, with only two +wolves taken from the family of eleven. Shivering +with cold and thoroughly drenched, we +returned in haste to shelter and dry clothes.</p> + +<p>The following morning we set out on our +return to Peschalkino, mounted, with the barzois, +while the fox-hounds were driven along +the road. We marched straight across the +country in a very thin skirmish line, regardless +of fences, which were broken down and +left to the owners to be repaired. By the time +we had reached our destination, we had en<a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a>joyed +some good sport and had taken several +hares. The following morning the master of +the imperial hunt, who had been kept at his +estates near Moscow by illness in his family, +arrived, fetching with him his horses and a +number of his own hounds. We continued +our hunting a number of days longer in that +vicinity, both with and without fox-hounds, +with varying success. Every day or two we +also indulged in shooting for ptarmigan, black +cocks, partridges, woodcocks and two kinds of +snipe—all of which prefer the most fatiguing +marshes.</p> + +<p>One day our scouts arrived from Philipovo, +twenty-six versts off, to report that another +family of wolves, numbering about sixteen, +had been located. The <i>Amerikanka</i> was sent +in advance to Orodinatovo, whither we went +by rail at a very early hour. This same rainy +and cold autumnal landscape would be intolerable +were it not brightened here and there by +the red shirts and brilliant headkerchiefs of +the peasants, the noise of the flail on the dirt-floor +sheds and the ever-alluring attractions of +the hunt.</p> + +<p>During this short railway journey, and on +the ride to Philipovo, I could not restrain<a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a> +certain reflections upon the life of the people +and of the proprietors of this country. It +seemed on this morning that three conditions +were necessary to render a permanent habitation +here endurable: neighbors, roads and +a change of latitude; of the first two there are +almost none, of latitude there is far too much. +To be born in a country excuses its defects, +and that alone is sufficient to account for the +continuance of people under even worse conditions +than those of these governments. It is +true that the soil here does not produce fruit +and vegetables like the Crimean coast, and +that it does not, like the black belt, "laugh +with a harvest when tickled with a hoe"; yet +it produces, under the present system of cultivation, +rye and flax sufficient to feed, clothe +and pay taxes. What more could a peasant +desire? With these provided his happiness is +secured; how can he be called poor? Without +questioning this defense, which has been +made many times in his behalf, I would simply +say that he is not poor as long as a famine or +plague of some sort does not arrive—and then +proceed with our journey.</p> + +<p>From Orodinatovo to Philipovo is only ten +versts, but over roads still less worthy of the<a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a> +name than the others already traveled. The +<i>Amerikanka</i> was drawn by four horses abreast. +The road in places follows the River Leet, on +which Philipovo is situated. We had expected +to proceed immediately to hunt the wolves, +and nearly 300 peasant men and women had +been engaged to aid the fox-hounds as beaters. +They had been assembled from far and near, +and were congregated in the only street of +Philipovo, in front of our future quarters, to +await our arrival. What a motley assembly, +what brilliancy of coloring! All were armed +with sticks, and carried bags or cloths containing +their rations of rye bread swung from the +shoulders, or around the neck and over the +back. How many pairs of boots were hung +over the shoulders? Was it really the custom +to wear boots on the shoulders? In any case +it was <i>de rigueur</i> that each one show that he +or she possessed such a luxury as a good pair +of high top boots; but it was not a luxury to +be abused or recklessly worn out. Their system +of foot-gear has its advantages in that the +same pair may be used by several members of +a family, male and female alike.</p> + +<p>It was not a pleasure for us to hear that the +wolves had been at home at twilight and mid<a name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></a>night, +but were not there at dawn; much less +comforting was this news to those peasants +living at great distances who had no place +near to pass the night. The same information +was imparted the following day and the +day following, until it began to appear doubtful +whether we could longer delay in order to +try for this very migratory pack.</p> + +<p>Our chances of killing old wolves depended +largely upon this drive, for it was doubtful +whether we would make an attack upon the +third family, two days distant from our quarters. +Every possible precaution was taken to +make it a success. I was, however, impressed +with the fact that the most experienced members +of the hunting party were the least sanguine +about the old wolves.</p> + +<p>Some one remarked that my hunting knife, +with a six-inch blade, was rather short, and +asked if I meant to try and take an old wolf. +My reply was in the affirmative, for my intentions +at that stage were to try anything in the +form of a wolf. At this moment one of the +land proprietors, who had joined our party, +offered to exchange knives with me, saying +that he had not the slightest intention of attacking +a wolf older than two years, and that<a name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></a> +my knife was sufficient for that. I accepted +his offer.</p> + +<p>At a very early hour on this cold rainy autumnal +morning we set out on our way to the +marshy haunts of the game. Our party had +just been reinforced by the arrival of the commander +of the Empress's Chevalier Guard +regiment, an ardent sportsman, with his dogs. +All the available fox-hounds, sixty in number, +were brought out, and the 300 peasants +counted off. The latter were keen, not only +because a certain part of them had sportsmanlike +inclinations, but also because each one received +thirty copecks for participation in the +drive. Besides this, they were interested in +the extermination of beasts that were living +upon their live stock.</p> + +<p>The picture at the start was more than +worthy of the results of the day, and it remains +fresh in my mind. The greater portion +of the peasants were taken in charge by the +chief beater, with the hounds, while the others +followed along with us and the barzois. Silence +was enforced upon all. The line of posts was +established as before, except that more care +was exercised. Each principal post, where +three barzois were held on leash, was strength<a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>ened +by a man with a gun loaded with buckshot. +The latter had instructions not to fire +upon a wolf younger than two years, and not +even upon an older one, until it was manifest +that the barzois and their holder were unequal +to the task.</p> + +<p>My post was a good one, and my three dogs +were apparently keen for anything. At the +slightest noise they were ready to drag me off +my feet through the marsh. Thanks to the +<i>nagaika</i>, I was able to keep them in hand. +One of the trio was well known for his grit in +attacking wolves, the second was considered +fair, while the third, a most promising two-year-old, +was on his first wolf-hunt. Supported +by these three dogs, the long knife of +the gentleman looking for young wolves and +the yellow cuirassier officer with his shotgun, I +longed for some beast that would give a struggle. +The peasants accompanying us were +posted out on each flank of our line, extending +it until the extremities must have been separated +by nearly two miles.</p> + +<p>The signal was given, and hunters, peasants +and hounds rushed into the woods. Almost +instantly we heard the screams and yells of +the nearest peasants, and in a short time the<a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a> +faint barking of the fox-hounds. As the sounds +became more audible, it was evident that the +hounds had split into three packs—conclusive +that there were at least three wolves. My +chances were improving, and I was arranging +my dogs most carefully, that they might be +slipped evenly. My knife, too, was within convenient +grasp, and the fox-hounds were pointing +directly to me. Beastly luck! I saw my +neighbor, the hunter of young wolves, slip his +barzois, and like a flash they shot through the +small pine trees, splashing as they went. From +my point of view they had fallen upon an animal +that strongly resembled one of themselves. +In reality it was a yearling wolf, but he was +making it interesting for the barzois as well +as for all who witnessed the sight. The struggle +did not last long, for soon two of the barzois +had fastened their long teeth in him—one +at the base of the ear, the other in the throat. +Their holder hastened to the struggle, about +100 yards from his post, and with my knife +gave the wolf the <i>coup de grace</i>. His dogs +had first sighted the game, and therefore had +the priority of right to the chase. So long as +the game was in no danger of escaping no +neighboring dogs should be slipped. His<a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a> +third barzoi, on trial for qualifications as a +wolf-hound, did not render the least aid.</p> + +<p>Part of the fox-hounds were still running, +and there was yet chance that my excited dogs +might have their turn. We waited impatiently +until all sounds had died away and until the +beaters had reached our line, when further indulgence +of hope was useless. Besides the +above, the fox-hounds had caught and killed a +yearling in the woods; and Colonel Dietz had +taken with his celebrated Malodiets, aided by +another dog, a two-year-old. What had become +of the other wolves and where were +most of the hounds? Without waiting to +solve these problems, we collected what we +could of our outfit and returned to Philipovo, +leaving the task of finding the dogs to the +whippers-in. The whys and wherefores of the +hunt were thoroughly discussed at dinner, and +it was agreed that most of the wolves had +passed to the rear between the beaters. It +was found out that the peasants, when a short +distance in the woods, had through fear formed +into squads instead of going singly or in pairs. +This did not, however, diminish the disappointment +at not taking at least one of the old ones.</p> + +<p>The result of this drive logically brought up<a name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></a> +the question of the best way to drive game. +In certain districts of Poland deer are driven +from the line of posts, and the same can be +said of successful moose-hunts of Northern +Russia. Perhaps that way may also be better +for wolves.</p> + +<p>After careful consideration of the hunting +situation, we were unanimous in preferring +hare and fox coursing with both fox-hounds +and barzois, or with the latter alone, at discretion, +to the uncertainty of wolf-hunting; so we +decided to change our locality. Accordingly +the following day we proceeded in the <i>Amerikanka</i> +to the town of Koy, twenty-five +versts distant. We arrived about noon, and +were quartered in a vacant house in the large +yard of Madam Ponamaroff. Our retinue of +huntsmen, dogs, horses, ambulance and wagons +arrived an hour later.</p> + +<p>There was no more wolf-hunting.</p> + +<p class="signature2">Henry T. Allen.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Barzoi—long-haired greyhound, wolf-hound, Russian greyhound.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The Waldeir hills, extending east and west half-way between St. +Petersburg and Moscow, are the only exception.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Vint—game of cards resembling whist, boaston and <i>préférence</i>.<a name="Page_156" id="Page_156"></a></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The bear is caricatured in Russian publications as a humorous, +light-hearted, joking creature, conversing and making common sport +with the golden-hearted moujik, his so-called brother.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Hunter-gentleman, huntsman, man of the hunt—conventional +terms.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6" id="Footnote_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Though not pertinent to the subject, I cannot refrain from +relating a curious comparison made to me by a very intelligent +Russian, aide-de-camp general of the late Emperor: "Just as the +scarcity of women in early American times caused them to be highly +appreciated and tenderly cared for, so the relative scarcity of men +in early Russia caused the Government to appreciate them and to +preserve them at all hazards. Logically follows the exalted position +of woman to-day in the United States and the absence of capital +punishment in Russia."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7" id="Footnote_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> There are two varieties: the so-called white hare and the so-called +red hare. The former becomes white in winter, and weighs, +when full grown, ten pounds; the latter has a reddish gray coat +which does not change, and weighs about one and a half pounds less +than the other variety. The red hare frequents the fields less than +does the white. The foxes are the ordinary red ones.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8" id="Footnote_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> In Northern Russia, owing to the extensive forest, brush and +marsh lands, every effort was made to utilize the small open spaces +or clearings for the greyhounds, and this was the usual way of +hunting; while in Southern Russia, where steppes predominate, the +open hunt—<i>chasse à courre</i>—prevailed. This explains why the +Crimean barzoi also has more endurance than the now recognized +type from the north.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9" id="Footnote_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> This is the Russian phrasing, and correctly describes the idea.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10" id="Footnote_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> That of the Grand Duke Nicolas Nicolaievitch.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11" id="Footnote_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> <i>Lezanka</i> means something used for lying on.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12" id="Footnote_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Hot oats poured into the boots were also used for drying them.</p></div> +</div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_7" id="CHAPTER_7"></a>A Bear-Hunt in the Sierras</h2> + + +<p>A few years ago, a friend and I were cruising +for our amusement in California, with outfit +of our own, consisting of three pack horses, +two saddle animals, tent and camp furnishings. +We had started from Los Angeles; had explored +various out-of-the-way passes and valleys +in the San Bernardino and San Rafael +Mountains, taking care the while to keep our +camp supplied with game; had killed deer and +exceptionally fine antelope in the hills adjoining +the Mojave Desert; had crossed the San +Joaquin Valley and visited the Yosemite, where +the good fortune of finding the Half Dome, +with the Anderson rope, carried away by ice, +gave us the opportunity for one delicious climb +in replacing it.</p> + +<p>Returning to Fresno, we had sold our ponies +and ended our five months' jaunt. My friend +had gone East, and I had accepted the invitation +of a member of the Union Club in San +Francisco, to whom I bore a letter of introduc<a name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></a>tion, +to accompany him upon a bear-hunt in +the Sierras. He explained to me that the +limited extent of his ranch in the San Joaquin +Valley—a meager and restricted demesne of +only 7,000 acres, consisting of splendid pasturage +and arable land—made it <a name="tn_202"></a><!-- TN: "necesssary" changed to "necessary"-->necessary for +the sheep to look elsewhere than at home for +sustenance during the summer months.</p> + +<p>Many of the great ranches in the valley possessed +prescriptive rights to pasturage over +vast tracts in the high Sierras. These, although +not recognized by the law, were at +least ignored, and were sanctioned by custom. +The land belonged to nobody—that is, it belonged +to Uncle Sam, which, so far as a Texas +or California stockman was concerned, amounted +to exactly the same thing. The owner of +such a right to pasturage zealously maintained +his claim; and if, for any reason, he could not +use it himself during a particular season, he +formally gave his consent to some one else to +enjoy the privilege in his stead. It was considered +a gross violation of etiquette for a +stockman to trespass upon that portion of the +forest habitually used by other sheep. Such +intrusions did occur, particularly upon the part +of Mexicans with small flocks—"tramp sheep"<a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a> +they were called; but when the intruder was +shot, small sympathy accompanied him to the +grave, and the deep damnation of his taking +off, in more senses than one, served as a salutary +reminder to other gentlemen with discourteous +tendencies to maraud. The consequence +of all this was that a big ranchman spoke of +his summer range with the same sense of proprietorship +and security of possession as of his +alfalfa field or pits of ensilage.</p> + +<p>We arrived at my friend's ranch in the evening, +and the next morning but one were in the +saddle and on our way—it having been arranged +that the younger brother of my host +was to take his place upon the hunt. As we +were to arrive at the sheep-herders' camps on +the fourth day from the ranch, no elaborate +preparations were necessary; we took but a +single animal for the pack, besides the horses +we rode. A Mexican herder, Leonard, was +the third member of the party—cook, packer, +guide, general storehouse of information and +jest. The first night we camped in the foot +hills, in a grove of big-cone pines, curiously +enough in the exact place where, a fortnight +before, my friend Proctor and I had pitched +our tent on the way from the Yosemite to<a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a> +Fresno, and which we had left without the +slightest expectation, on the part of either, of +ever seeing again.</p> + +<p>Little of the journey to the mountains remains +in my memory. We passed a great +timber chute of astonishing length—twenty or +forty miles, or something of the sort—down +which timber is floated from the great pine +and spruce forests to the railroad, with little +trouble and at slight expense; the water being +of commercial value for purposes of irrigation +during the summer, and bringing a good price +after it has fulfilled its special function as carrier. +The drinking water for my friend's ranch +was taken from this, a supply being drawn in +the cool of the morning sufficient to last +throughout the day, and most grateful we +found it during sultry August days in a part +of the country where ice is not to be procured.</p> + +<p>Each of the four days of our journey we +were climbing higher among the mountains, +into a thinner and more invigorating atmosphere. +The days were hot so long as one remained +exposed to the sun, but the shadows +were cool and the nights most refreshing. +Upon the last morning of our journey, crossing +a mountain creek, my attention was called<a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a> +to a rude bridge, where had occurred a battle +of the ranchmen upon the occasion of an attempted +entry by a "tramp" owner with his +flock into somebody's "summer range." The +intruder was killed, and I believe in this particular +instance the possessor of the unwritten +right of exclusive pasturage upon Government +land found the laws of California awkward +to deal with; not so deadly, it may be, +as a six-shooter, but expensive and discouraging +to quiet pastoral methods.</p> + +<p>Another point of interest was Rattlesnake +Rock, which we rounded upon the trail. This +was a spot peculiarly sheltered and favored by +the winds, the warmest corner that snakes wot +of, and here they assemble for their winter's +sleep. In the mild days of early spring, when +the rest of the world is still frozen and forbidden, +this one little nook, catching all the sun, +is thawed and genial. From beneath the ledge +crawl forth into the warmth great store of rattlers, +big and little. Coming out from the Yosemite +Valley, I had killed one quite four feet +in length and of exactly the same girth as my +wrist, which I was assured was not at all an +extraordinary size for them "in these parts." +Near this rock, in an unfeeling manner, I shot<a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a> +the head off another big one, and he will no +longer attend the yearly meeting of his kind +at Rattlesnake Rock.</p> + +<p>Upon this stage of our journey we met no +one, yet the noble forest of spruce through +which we were traveling bore only too plainly +the signs of man's presence in the past, and of +his injurious disregard of the future. Everywhere +were the traces of fire. The trees of +the Sierras, at the elevation at which we were, +an altitude of 8,000 or 10,000 feet, grow more +sparsely than in any forest to which we are +accustomed in the East. Their dry and unimpeded +spaces seem like heaven to the hunter +familiar only with the tangled and perplexing +undergrowth of the "North Woods," where +the midday shadow, the thick underbrush, the +uneven and wet, mossy surface, except upon +some remote hardwood ridge, are the unvarying +characteristics. In the Rocky Mountains, +and that part of the Sierras with which I am +familiar, it is quite different. In California +the trees do not crowd and jostle one another, +but have regard for the sacredness of the person +so far as the mutual relation of one and +all are concerned. Broad patches of sunshine +beneath the trees encourage the growth of rich<a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a> +grasses, none so sweet as those which are +found at a great altitude; and, although the +prevailing tint under foot is that of the reddish +earth, tufts of succulent feed abound sufficient +to repay the sheep for cruising everywhere, +while occasional glades furnish the most +delicious and abundant pasturage. As in every +forest, the processes of nature are slow—it takes +a long time for the dead past to bury its dead. +On every side lie fallen trees; and a generation +of rain and snow, sunshine and wind and +tempest, must elapse before these are rotted +away, and by the enrichment of the soil can +furnish nourishment and life to their progeny +and successors. Naturally these trees are a +hindrance and annoyance to the sheep herder; +they separate his flock and greatly increase his +labors. The land is not even his master's, +whose one idea is temporary gain, hence there +is no restraining influence whatever for their +preservation. "So long as it lasts my lifetime, +what matter?" is the prevailing sentiment.</p> + +<p>As there is no rain during the summer +months, the fallen trees become perfectly dry; +a handful of lighted twigs is all that is required +to set fire to them, when they blaze or +smoulder until consumed. Owing to the ab<a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a>sence +of underbrush, forest fires are far less +common than would be expected; but, of +course, the soil is impoverished by the deprivation +of its natural enrichment, the decaying +wood, and the centuries to come will +there, as well nigh everywhere in our country, +point the finger of scorn at our spendthrift +forestry.</p> + +<p>Although this is the chief economic injury, +the beauty of the woods is sadly marred; all +large game is frightened away, except the +bear, which is half human and half hog in +his methods, and minds it not at all—in fact, +finds the presence of man perfectly intelligible, +and his fat flocks a substantial addition to +his own bill of fare. Leonard pointed out to +us a certain mountain shrub, a rank poison to +sheep. Every cluster of it in his range is +known to the herder, who keeps the sheep in +his charge at a safe distance. This is one of +his important duties; for, if a sheep eats of this +plant, he is a "goner."</p> + +<p>In one particular the pasturage of the high +Sierras has greatly suffered. The ranchmen +naturally wish to get their sheep off the home +range as early in the spring as possible—in +fact, the last month there is one of starvation.<a name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></a> +The new crops have not yet grown, nothing +remains standing of the old but a few dead +stalks of weeds, the supply of alfalfa cut the +year before has long since been exhausted, +and, metaphorically speaking, the sheep and +cattle have to dine, as the hungry Indian is +said to do, by tightening his belt half a dozen +holes and thinking of what he had to eat week +before last. Only the weaklings die, however; +the others become lean and restless, and as +eager as their masters to start for the mountains. +The journey supplies them with scant +pickings, just enough to keep body and soul +together, but morally it is a relief from the +monotony of starvation at home, and they +work their way stubbornly and expectantly up +the mountains and into the forest as soon as +the sun permits and anything has grown for +them to eat. The consequence of this close +grazing is that certain species of the grasses +upon which they feed are never allowed to +come to flower and mature their seed; hence +those with a delicate root, the more strictly +annual varieties, which rely upon seed for perpetuation +of the plant, have a hard time of it. +Where the sheep range, the wild timothy, for +example—a dwarf variety and an excellent,<a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a> +sweet grass—has almost disappeared, although +formerly it grew in abundance.</p> + +<p>The forest glades through which we passed +had the appearance of a closely-cropped pasture, +as different as possible from the profusion +of tall grasses and beautiful flowering +plants which grow in similar openings untroubled +by sheep. So far as the grasses are +concerned—or "grass," by which, I take it, is +ordinarily designated the foliage of the plant—I +doubt if it is molested to any great extent +by deer. Their diet is mainly the tender +leaves of plants—"weeds" to the unscientific +person. The heads of wild oats and of a few +of the grasses might prove sufficiently sweet +and tempting to arrest their fancy; but as for +grazing, as sheep or cattle do, it is not their +habit. When deer shall have come to trudge +up hill in the plodding gait of the domestic +beasts, and shall have abandoned their present +method of ascending by a series of splendid +springing leaps and bounds, the very embodiment +of vigor and of wild activity, time enough +then for them to take to munching grass, the +sustenance of the harmless, necessary cow. At +present they are most fastidious in their food, +and select only the choicest, tenderest tips and<a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a> +sweetest tufts of herbage, picking them here +and there, wandering and meditating as they +eat. I will not say that they never touch +grass, for I have seen deer feeding among +cattle in the open, but it is not by any means +the chief article of their diet, and when they +partake of it under such circumstances, it is +more as a gratification of their social instincts, +I think, than from any particular love of the +food itself.</p> + +<p>A little before noon upon the fourth day, +we arrived at one of the sheep camps, to which +we had been directed by a stray herd, and +where we were to find the foreman of the +sheep gang. At that hour of the day there +were naturally in camp but a few men. The +cook was there, of course. His functions were +simple enough—to make bread, tea, and boil +mutton, or bake it in a Mexican oven beneath +the coals. With him was the chief herder and +a half-witted Portuguese, who, upon the day +following, in the plenitude of his zeal and +mental deficiency, insisted upon offering himself +as live bait for a grizzly, as will be narrated.</p> + +<p>During the afternoon I strolled further up +the mountain with my rifle, in the hope of a<a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a> +shot at a stray deer, and to have a look at the +lay of the land. Bear tracks I saw and a little +deer sign also, but it was too early in the day +regularly to hunt. All nature nodded in the +dozy glare of the August afternoon, and after +the hot journey in the saddle I found a siesta +under the clean spruce trees refreshing. Toward +sunset I awoke to find a pine martin in a +tree across the gulch reconnoitering, and evidently +turning over in his mind the probabilities +whether the big creature curled up on the +hillside "forninst" him were of the cast of +hunter or hunted. I soon brought him out +of that, and upon my return to camp the hide +was graciously accepted by the chief herder, +who converted the head of it into a tobacco +pouch with neatness and dispatch. At the +evening meal there were good-natured references +to <i>chile con oso</i>—bear's meat cooked with +red peppers—regret expressed that the camp's +larder could at present afford none, and expressions +of confidence that this delicacy would +soon be set before us—all most politely and +comfortably insinuated. They had the gratification +of their desire; it was on the next day +but one.</p> + +<p>That night there was a great jabbering of<a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a> +bad Spanish around the camp-fire. Had this +been the rendezvous of Sicilian brigands, it +doubtless would have had a slightly more picturesque +appearance, but the difference would +have been only of degree, not at all of kind. The +absence of rain made tents unnecessary. Piles +of bedding, of cooking and riding equipment, +defined the encampment. Around the fire a +dozen Mexicans clustered, of whom, except +the chief herder and Leonard, not one spoke +English. They wore the broad hats of their +race, and were arrayed for protection against +the cool night winds of the Sierras in old and +shabby cloaks, some of which had been originally +bright in color, but now were subdued by +age and dirt into comfortable harmony with +the quiet tones of the mountain and the forest. +Old quilts and sheepskins carpeted a small +space where we had been invited to seat ourselves +upon our arrival. Then, as throughout +our stay, every possible mark of hospitality +was shown us—a delicious, faint survival of +Castilian courtesy.</p> + +<p>Long after I had turned in, somewhere in +the dead vast and middle of the night, I was +aroused by the sound of scurry and scampering +among the bunch of sheep which was rounded<a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a> +up near the camp. Experience has taught +these creatures to efface themselves at night, +and they are only too glad to sleep quietly, as +near as possible to humans, with no disposition +to wander after dark. They realize their +danger from bears, yet the protection which a +Mexican affords is a purely imaginary thing, +as unsubstantial as the baseless fabric of a +vision, of as little real substance for the protection +of the flock as the dream of mutton +stew and fat bear, by no means a baseless fabric, +which engrosses the sleeping shepherd, +body and mind. The disturbance upon this +occasion soon subsided. One and another of +the shepherds sleepily moved in his blankets—perhaps +swore to himself a hurried prayer +or two—but not one of them spoke aloud or +indicated the slightest intention of investigating +the cause of the commotion. Only too +well they and the sheep knew what it signified. +Quiet reigned again, and, attaching no importance +to the incident, I was promptly asleep.</p> + +<p>In the morning I learned that the disturbing +cause had been the charge of a grizzly +into the flock within a stone's throw of us, a +sound too familiar to occasion comment at the +time. There were the tracks, to leeward of<a name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></a> +the sheep, of a she grizzly and two cubs. +Their approach had been without a sound; +not the snap of a twig, or the faintest footfall, +had given any signal of their presence. The +mother had critically overhauled the flock in +her mind from a slight rise of ground, on a +level with their backs or slightly higher, and +made deliberate choice of a fat wether, having +a discriminating eye, and being too good a +judge of sheep flesh to take any but such as +are in prime condition. A single quick rush +and she has secured her victim, in an instant, +before the rest are fairly upon their feet, and +is off, carrying the sheep in her mouth as +easily as a cat would her kitten, her delighted +cubs trotting behind. Every two or three +nights this occurrence was repeated, with no +interference upon the part of the Mexicans. +"What recks it them?" "The hungry sheep +look up and are not fed." On the contrary, +the bears are. As for the Mexicans, they +have "lost no bear!" To have seen the intruder +would have been only a gratuitous +anxiety, since nothing in the world would +have tempted them to fire at it. Should they +risk life and limb for a sheep? and that the +<i>patron's</i>, who had so many! It was not their<a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a> +quarrel! The charge of the grizzly was a +thing as much to be accepted as an incident +of the Sierras as the thunderbolt—equally +dangerous to him who should interfere as the +lightning stroke to one daring to interpose his +rifle between the angry heavens and the fore-doomed +tree.</p> + +<p>We may feel sure that the lesson is not lost +upon the cubs. They are taught energy, sagacity, +craft in maturing their plans, courage +and promptness in their execution. They are +taught reverence for the ursine genius, unbounded +admiration for their mother's leadership +and steadiness of nerve, at the same time +that they are taught contempt for the stupidity +of sheep and the pusillanimity of humans. +It may be that an apologist for the latter +might find a word to mitigate their too severe +sentence. A she grizzly of the Sierras, at +night, with hungry cubs to feed, is not an +altogether pleasant thing to face when infuriated +by wounds, none of which may be bad +enough to cripple her, yet combined are amply +sufficient to make her pretty cross and dangerous. +The Mexican is a poor shot, but what +can you expect? His vocation is a humble +one. Were he of more positive and deter<a name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></a>mined +temperament, he would be a <i>vaquero</i> of +the plains, or <i>boyero</i> (<i>Anglicè</i> "bull-whacker") +on the Santa Fé trail or down in old Mexico; +and not the dry nurse of these "woolly idiots," +in whose race, for innumerable centuries, man +has elaborately cultivated stupidity, and, by +systematic process of artificial selection, has +faithfully eliminated every sign of insubordination +and the last trace of individuality of +temperament, and that which in our race is +called character. No native-born white man +in this country can be induced to follow, for +any length of time, the vocation of shepherd. +The deadly monotony of the occupation drives +him either to imbecility or desperation. It is +well known that men who habitually care for +any animal come in time to resemble him. +Stable boys, bred to the vocation of groom, +become horse-faced and equine of disposition, +eventually they wheeze and whistle like a +curry-comb. Cowboys partake of the scatter-brained +recklessness of the Texas steer which +they tend. No one can admit dogs to be daily +and familiar companions without absorbing +into his system somewhat of their sense of humor +and of their faithfulness. The lion-tamer, +who enters unscathed the den of his charge,<a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a> +must share the robustious courage and determination +of the beast with which he associates. +The rat-catcher, whether he be ferret or man, +partakes of the fierce slyness of the game he +follows; and I remember that, years ago, before +I ever heard mention of this peculiarity +of resemblance, I could detect, plainly writ in +the face of the attendant of "Mr. Crowley," +when he was kept in the old arsenal building +in Central Park, the reflected temperament +and animalism of the poor, indolent, captive +chimpanzee, whose fellow and all too sympathetic +friend he had made himself. Naturalists +are well aware of this phenomenon.</p> + +<p>If this be so, and stupidity catching, what +more potent influence of fatty degeneration of +the intellect could there be than the uninterrupted +society of sheep, with nothing in the +world to think of except their care—without +even the stimulating influence of gain to redeem +the paralyzing service. The sheep are +not their own, and if the bears eat them up the +keepers do not feel the stimulating ache in +their money-pocket that might tempt them, +however feebly, to resist aggression. Moreover, +as a rule, they are wretchedly armed. +Each of these men carried an old six-shooter<a name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></a> +of an outlandish and forgotten pattern, good +enough to try a chance shot at another Mexican +with, but only a source of more or less +pleasurable titillation to a bear, were one ever +to be discharged at him, and about as effective +as pelting an alligator with strawberries. If +the last stage of misery for a horse be to drag, +along its rigid road of stone and iron, the city +horse-car with its thankless freight of fares, +the corresponding degradation of the "gun" +is to rest upon the hip of a degenerate sheep-herder, +half Spaniard, half Indian and half coyote. +Any self-respecting weapon reduced to +such straits would be conscious of its low estate; +its magazine would revolve in a creaky, +half-hearted, reluctant fashion; it would doubtless +fire an apologetic bullet; its report would +be something between "scat" and "beg your +pardon," to which a bear would pay but slight +heed. Others of the Mexicans were armed +with old muskets, somewhat rusty and ramshackly, +but with a furry longitudinal perforation +throughout their length, along which—it +could not creditably be called a bore—a ball +could after a fashion, if you gave it time +enough, be propelled. Leonard was exceptionally +fortunate in this respect; he carried an<a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a> +old rim-fire .44-40 Winchester, the action of +which occasionally worked and occasionally did +not. Comparatively speaking, he was rather a +swell in the matter of firearms; but if one +should put his trust in him in case of emergency +as a sheet anchor to windward, there was +always the remote possibility, were the strain +too intense, that he might not be a dependence +of absolute security.</p> + +<p>The afternoon of this day, much against my +real inclination, but in accordance with the +prevailing desire, we started out, the whole +rabble of us, to follow the she grizzly's trail. +It could not be called a "still-hunt," for the +reason that six men hunting in a pack are +never still; however, it did not matter. We +found in a neighboring gulch bits of the fleece, +bones and hides of three sheep, and the sufficiently +plain evidence, upon the trampled and +bloody ground, of recent feasts. Yet this was +the banqueting hall and not the children's +nursery. A bear thinks nothing of a little +stroll of ten miles or so before or after eating. +It aids digestion, and in case of a female, as +this was, wards off an attack of the nerves. +Particularly a bear with cubs would put at +least that distance between herself and hunt<a name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></a>ers. +Moreover they are so clever that I doubt +not this one knew already by scent and subtle +process of ratiocination how many of us there +were in camp, where we were from, the color +of our hair, what sort of rifles we carried, their +caliber, how heavy a bullet and how many +grains of powder they fired. This is said in the +light of after events and of further experience.</p> + +<p>That afternoon, in our unjustifiably sanguine +forecast, we had hopes of finding this +particular bear. The half-witted "Portugee," +of whom I have spoken, showed especial +zeal in the presence of the <i>patron</i>, and insisted, +in spite of mild and repeated caution, +in going ahead and scrupulously investigating +every possible ambuscade where there was the +remotest chance of finding the bear, or, what +was much more likely, of the bear finding him. +In consideration of the fact that this was a she +one which we were after, that she was proud +and well fed, and on the lookout for pursuit, +had the "Portugee" found her, she would in +all probability have received his visit with cordial +warmth. Not speaking his tongue fluently, +I was unable to express my solicitude except +by signs and admonitory gestures. The rest +of the party apparently seemed to think that,<a name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></a> +while the bear was interested and occupied +with him, a good opportunity would be offered +for getting in a shot; and as Portuguese were a +drug in the market in that part of California, +and grizzly bears, dead, a great rarity, he was +suffered to contribute his mite to the success of +<i>la chasse</i>, and all went merrily. Not a thicket +or a den did he leave unprobed.</p> + +<p>An hour or two were spent in beating +up the gulch to its head. Then a barren +mountain side presented itself, three or four +miles of it, with no shelter. Leonard ran +the trail here like a dog, literally ran it, and +the pack of hunters tailed behind him for a +half or three-quarters of a mile. A bit before +sundown we were at the edge of the chaparral—a +tangle of bushes and quaking asp—rather a +baddish place in which to stumble upon her serene +highness. However, my companions did +me the honor to promote me to the "Portugee's" +place and function. With rifle across +the crook of arm, we stole as silently as might +be—the United States army would have made +more noise—into the jungle. Sunset overtook +us up on the far edge, with a stretch of open +forest in sight, and, I doubt not, with Madam +Bruin and her cubs miles ahead in some inac<a name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></a>cessible +snarl of bushes, where the crackling +underbrush would warn her of approach as +fully as could the most complete system of +burglar alarms.</p> + +<p>That night, leaving word that whoever might +be the first to stir in the morning should call +me, I unrolled my blankets under a spruce +somewhat apart from the crowd, and was soon +asleep. Before daylight I was astir, had a cup +of coffee and a bite, and was off. Upon the +previous afternoon I had picked the direction +I would take, which was to skirt certain openings +in the forest below. Fresh sign I saw +that assured me of the excellence of the range +for bear, but I encountered nothing alive worth +powder and ball, and returned to camp about +9 o'clock. I was greeted by Leonard with +the joyful news that during my absence he +had seen from camp a big bear cross the side +of the mountain only a mile or so away, and +disappear over the ridge. This happened +about 7 o'clock. The chief herder and my +companion received the information somewhat +in a spirit of respectful incredulity, but +Leonard assured me that it was so, and we +made preparations to follow the trail toward +night. Meanwhile I breakfasted and slept.<a name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></a></p> + +<p>We left camp about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, +and without the slightest difficulty found +the beast's trail exactly where the Mexican +had said we should. Before this time I had +killed an odd bear or so in Colorado, and had +had some little experience in unraveling the +trail of game. It may be rather priding myself +upon the accomplishment, but let me here +acknowledge the superiority of professional +talent. Leonard, to all intents and purposes, +had been born and raised on a sheep range. +His earliest recollections had been of the +sheep camps of the Sierras, of the reputation +of the arch-enemy of the flock and of the +havoc which he works. From infancy he, like +all the herders, had been constantly upon the +lookout for bear sign; it was his one keenest +intellectual accomplishment and diversion. +The result of this special training was such +an acuteness of vision and nice discrimination +of eye that he could clearly distinguish a bear's +footprints upon the naked sand and gravel +where at a quick glance I was unable to see +any indication whatever. A single grain of +sand displaced was sufficient to arrest his eye; +he detected it instantly. To him the minutest +particle had its weather-beaten side as well as<a name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></a> +a boulder. A bear could not put his foot +upon the ground without leaving an impress +which he could detect. His talent was so +quick and unerring that we soon organized a +division of labor. He was to concentrate his +energies and attention upon the trail, while I, +by his side or a step in advance, when the +trail read itself and permitted such a course, +was to watch ahead and around for both of us. +Fortunately this arrangement was satisfactory +to him. The hardest of the trail to decipher +was where it was written in condensed shorthand +across a mountain slide or <i>coulisse</i> of +naked granite boulders. Here not one trace +was to be found in a dozen yards. Fortunately +we could trust in the genius of the bear; he +was aware, as well as La Place, that a straight +line is the shortest distance between two +points. He undoubtedly knew exactly where +he was heading. We had his general direction, +and by beating about for a tuft of grass +here with a blade displaced, a stray gooseberry +bush there with a leaf awry, and yonder a +patch of thicker vegetation, betraying interference, +we soon succeeded, owing mainly to +Leonard's genius as a pathfinder, in getting +through a couple of acres of this most vague<a name="Page_212" id="Page_212"></a> +and illegible pedography. At last we had the +trail upon the mountain side once more, where, +after such difficulties surmounted, following it +was a comparative luxury.</p> + +<p>After having proceeded in this manner for +perhaps two hours, we entered timber, and +were obliged to advance with greater caution +to avoid the slightest sound which might betray +our presence and give the alarm. With +two men the risk of doing this is increased in +geometrical ratio. One person alone, traveling +through the woods, may, and almost certainly +will, break an occasional twig under +foot. If game is within hearing, the sound +will inevitably be detected; the deer, if it be a +deer, will lift his head and listen; but if the +hunter stops and waits for a time, the chances +are that the animal will, after due interval of +silence, resume his feeding if so engaged, or +his rumination, be it physical or moral, and +the alarm may not prove fatal. Not so when +companions are hunting together. It would +seem as if the second man, with dreadful +promptness, never failed to snap his twig also, +which sounds as loud as a pistol coming upon +the strained attention of the listening beast, +who is off like a streak, leaving the disap<a name="Page_213" id="Page_213"></a>pointed +hunter, as he hears him crashing +away, to moralize that company in the chase +halves the pleasure and doubles the sorrow. +The only safety where union is necessary +is to proceed with exaggerated and fantastic +caution.</p> + +<p>Leonard was a treasure in this. He had +dreamt of grizzlies all his life, yet had never +been in at the death. His heart was in the +hunt—he fairly sighed for gore. We crept +into the woods as silent as panthers and as +"purry" in the ardor of the chase. After a +mile or so our bear had come to an immense +fallen spruce, lying across the trail, with the +big butt, five or six feet in diameter, to our +right, the top pointing up the hill. Over the +middle of this, at right angles, lay another +large tree, with the point toward us. I felt +that behind the first of these, if I had been the +original and unmolested settler in these parts, +as the bear was, with all the world before me +where to choose, I should have made the bed +for my morning nap. It was long after daylight +when he had reached this covert. He +had doubtless been stirring soon after sunset +the evening before; he had, it is not unlikely, +been traveling all night; had feasted heartily<a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a> +upon a sheep during that interval, and by the +time he reached this place, which may have +been in his mind from the start, was feeling +comfortably lazy and inclined to the refreshment +of sleep. Behind that tree, so admirably +suited for the purpose, I trusted that he might +still remain. The big end would protect a +cool space from the heat of the morning sun, +and we might yet be so lucky as to find him in +his lair beneath its shelter. A signal to Leonard +was enough, and we proceeded to circle +the fallen timber, which fortunately the wind +permitted, with all the caution of which we +were capable. Had the gentleman we were +after been our dearest friend at the crisis of a +fever, we could not have tiptoed about his bed +with more solicitude lest we disturb sweet +slumber. The big tree lay in front of us; by +this we crept at a respectful distance, and then +approached the further end of the tree lying +across it. With great care I sneaked up until +I could look over its trunk at the desired +point. Alas! no bear had made his nest +there.</p> + +<p>Sorrowfully, but without a sound, I crawled +upon the intervening log and slowly stood +erect. There, directly beneath me, where I<a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a> +could have jumped into it most comfortably, +was the deserted form of the bear, which he +had dug in the morning within an hour after +Leonard had seen him, and in which the greater +part of the day had been spent, until he had +stirred abroad for water, with which to wash +down the recollection of his muttons. Although +ardently hoping that he was behind +the tree, I had not in the least expected to +find his bed in this particular place. Had he +stayed quietly there until our arrival, he would +have given one of us a delicious surprise, and +the mutual agitation of the moment might +have induced a shot with unpremeditated +haste, and possibly have caused me to get +off that fallen spruce tree in somewhat quicker +time than I had climbed it. One naturally +would not feel any keen desire to display his +acrobatic skill in walking a log for the entertainment +of an infuriated grizzly. A few hairs +proclaimed him a cinnamon, who is either a +variety of the grizzly or his first cousin—authorities +differ; at all events, he closely resembles +him except in color, which, although of a +uniform light, fady brown, might be an extreme +type of the "sorrel top" of the Rockies. +In size the cinnamon fully holds his own with<a name="Page_216" id="Page_216"></a> +the grizzly; I should say that his head was +rather longer. The generous excavation which +this one had made showed that he was no +mean representative of his species.</p> + +<p>Not twenty yards away, and near the end of +the big tree where I had expected to find him, +was a little spring. To this, still without a +word, we proceeded, saw where he had stood +to drink more than once, doubtless long and +deep. To our left, in the soft earth, lay his +retreating footsteps—a continuation of the +general direction of his previous course. A +moment's pause for closer scrutiny, a smile +and a whispered word exchanged—just to +show that we were not bored; then, respectful +of the silence of the darkening woods, we +were again upon the trail. It was now easy +to see why he had left his lair; it faced the +west, and the heat of the afternoon sun had +annoyed him, warmly clad and irritable with +high living.</p> + +<p>We had proceeded only about a stone's +throw further when I caught a glimpse of our +bear. Within twenty paces, under the shadow +of a tree at the edge of a cool, umbrageous +thicket, between him and the setting sun, lay +the beast we were after; or, as I for a moment<a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a> +thought, judging from the great inchoate mass +of brown fur, a pair, perhaps male and female, +or one, it might be, a yearling cub. With finger +lifted I signaled Leonard to stop. A +great head was slowly raised and turned my +way. A bullet between the eyes and down it +went again, and I threw another cartridge into +the chamber, expecting to see the second bear +spring to his feet, ready to do whatever, in his +judgment, the occasion required, either to fight +or to run. Whichever he might elect to do, it +was well to be prepared. "Give him another +shot," said the prudent Leonard, and I fired a +second time, sending this ball quartering and, +like the first, through the brain; then I realized +that there was but one, and he of creditable size. +We soon had him out in the open, for nothing +is easier to roll about than a bear just killed. +He is like a great jelly-fish, and I have seen a +little terrier no larger than a rabbit worry and +shake a great carcass four times as large as +the most commodious kennel he could desire, +provided he were a sensible pup and had the +comfortable instinct of wild things for snugness +rather than ostentatious display. Enough +of daylight remained for us to get his pelt off, +with head and claws unskinned and attached,<a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a> +and to hurry over the mountain by moonlight +with our trophy, a junk of rank meat for such +as might desire it not forgotten.</p> + +<p>We were cordially welcomed back to camp, +and, after the usual pow-wow, the cook, with +due formality, with Mexican <i>chile</i> and Spanish +politeness, proceeded to concoct the boasted +<i>chile con oso</i>—a much overrated dish when +made of a tough old cinnamon he bear. After +I had turned in I heard much laughter, and +subsequently learned that it was at an incident +of the day. As we were starting out in the +afternoon, and before we had struck the bear's +trail, in order to avoid any possibility of a premature +shot I had casually inquired of Leonard +if he wished to earn five dollars.</p> + +<p>"Certainly, Señor, I am always glad to get +the chance."</p> + +<p>"Well, don't shoot then until I give the +word, and you shall have it."</p> + +<p>This circumstance Leonard had innocently +narrated to the group around the camp-fire +in the fuller elaboration of the hunt, and the +story had an immediate success, the idea seeming +to prevail that nothing in the world could +have tempted him to fire before he was compelled +to—which, as a matter of fact, I think<a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a> +was only prudent on his part, considering the +arms he bore.</p> + +<p>The next morning, to the infinite chagrin of +some of us, the younger <i>patron</i> discovered that +his presence was required at home, where, if +he was mildly chid by my friend, his elder +brother, who in generosity to his junior had +yielded his own place and the leadership of +this expedition, I should not greatly grieve.</p> + +<p>Upon the third day thereafter we regained +the ranch.</p> + +<p class="signature2">Alden Sampson.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_8" id="CHAPTER_8"></a>The Ascent of Chief Mountain</h2> + + +<p>In the most northern corner of the Piegans' +country, in northwestern Montana, almost +grazing the Canadian border with its abrupt +side, stands a turret-shaped mountain. Behind +it the great range of the Rockies, which +for hundreds of miles has been trending steadily +northwood, bends sharply away toward the +west, leaving the corner on which the mountain +stands a huge protruding pedestal for its +weird shape. Ninety years ago Lewis and +Clarke saw it from far to southward as they +passed along the dwindling Missouri and called +it Tower Mountain; but to the Indians it +has always been The Chief Mountain. Even +those prosaic German geographers to whom +we owe so much for information about our +own and other lands have either seen it and +fallen under the spell of its strange power, or +have taken their nomenclature directly from +the Piegans, for they have crowned it Kaiser +Peak.<a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a></p> + +<p>For more than a year we had been numbered +with the Chief's subjects. During the +previous summer we had been seeking the +acquaintance of the mountain goat; not the +shorn degenerate which throngs the slopes of +the Cascades and straggles among the southern +peaks of Montana, but the true snowy buffalo +of the northern Rockies; and from the ledges +of the St. Mary Mountains, where we had +sought him, could be seen still further to the +northward the Piegans' Chief. Of the range, +yet not in it, like a captain well to the front of +his battle-line, he pressed out into the broad +prairie, as if leading a charge of Titans toward +the far distant lakes. And through the long +months of an Eastern winter, and the still +longer months of an Eastern summer, above +all the memories of that wondrous land where +every butte and mountain peak teems with +legend, and where every bison skull on the +prairie tells its story, had towered the clear-cut +image of that Northern mountain, a worthy +sovereign of any man's allegiance. Now, as +inevitably as an antelope returns to its lure, we +had returned for a closer look at our mountain. +Down deep in our hearts, battling with +the awe which we felt for him, was the almost<a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a> +unspoken hope that perhaps in some way we +might struggle up his sheer sides and make +him, in a way he was to no one else, our king.</p> + +<p>We were a party of three, the Doctor and I, +and our faithful packer, Fox. A cold storm +was blowing spitefully across the open foothills +and out on to the prairie as we broke +camp under the high banks of Kennedy Creek +on the morning of the last stage of our journey. +The clouds, driving over the range from +the northwest, swung so low that they hid the +peaks, and the great pedestal of the Chief met +them all uncrowned, indistinguishable from the +others about him. It was one of those doubtful +mornings with which the mountains love to +warn off strangers, or to greet their friends—one +which might presage a week of storm or +usher in a fortnight of surpassing beauty.</p> + +<p>We had camped for the night at the last of +those ranches which stretch along the bottom +lands of the St. Mary River, and just as we +started, its owner, Indian Billy, decided to go +with us.</p> + +<p>Even he had never been to the foot of his +tribe's famous peak, and the dark-skinned +idlers of the ranch who gathered about us as +we flung the lash ropes over our horses could<a name="Page_223" id="Page_223"></a> +tell us little more than legends of it. Several +Bloods from across the Canadian border declared +that the boundary line ran, not where +the white men had marked it on the prairie +with their insignificant piles of stones, but +through the deep cleft in the Chief's wall, +where the Great Spirit himself had placed it; +thus giving to the Bloods, who knew it best, +their proper share of the mountain. And, +getting warmer in their enthusiasm, they reminded +Billy of their standing challenge to +his tribe, the Piegans—fifty horses to anyone +who should run around that wall, small as it +seemed, in half a day.</p> + +<p>For our part it was hard to realize even on +that cold September morning that the long +dreaming was over and the reality before us. +It took all the straining of the pack ponies on +the wet lead-ropes to remind us that we were +at last climbing the foothills of the great peak. +Our presence there, far from breaking the long +enchantment, surrendered us bodily to it, and +Billy, riding over the successive slopes before +us, swaying in the saddle with the hawk-like +motion of the prairie Indian, seemed a fit ambassador +to lead us to his king. As the day +passed, the clouds gradually lightened; and<a name="Page_224" id="Page_224"></a> +finally, just as we surmounted one of the higher +foothills, at the summit of the long, sloping, +forest-clad pedestal before us broke through +the crown of the Chief. Toward us, on the +east, it showed a black rectangular wall 2,000 +feet in length, 1,500 in height, and from its +sharp corners the broken mists streamed away +southward like tattered garments.</p> + +<p>A few hasty pictures, taken while Fox +mended a broken pack cinch, and we pressed +on toward the foot of the mountain. Some +benign influence was with us even thus early, +and we were guided into the easiest way. +Streaks of burned forest, bristling with windfalls, +were slowly but successfully threaded, +long rock slides luckily avoided, while we +mounted steadily slope after slope; until +finally, late in the afternoon, we pulled our +panting horses out, just above timber line, +upon the comparatively level summit of the +pedestal. The foot of the great crown wall +was still a mile away and 1,000 feet above us, +but we were near enough and high enough for +our purpose; and in a deep basin, sheltered +from the wind and carpeted with softest mountain +grass, and with the only water in the +neighborhood sparkling up from a spring in<a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a> +the bottom, we found a perfect camp. As +soon as the tents were pitched, Fox set about +preparing dinner, while the seven horses, freed +from their loads, buried their noses in the grass +in perfect contentment.</p> + +<p>As he sat in the door of the tent, the Doctor's +eyes seemed glued to his field glass, while +the object lenses ever pointed in the one direction, +westward; under the brim of the Indian's +broad hat, as he lay apparently dozing before +the fire, I could see his black eyes fixed on +the same point; and even Fox, constantly +shifting his position about the fire, rarely took +one which placed his back toward that black +wall behind which the sun was now gradually +sinking. For myself, all the longing of the +past year had concentrated itself into a desire +to rush over this last remaining distance; to +get to that magic crown, to feel it with hand +and foot, and to see whether, as the Piegans +aver, it denied even a single foothold for a +mortal man.</p> + +<p>After dinner the Doctor and I did go to it. +We clambered out of our little basin on to the +higher portion of the domelike pedestal, and +from this platform, on which rests the great +crown, looked past its two edges at the vast<a name="Page_226" id="Page_226"></a> +mountain range behind it, stretching north +and south. Then we picked our way toward +it, through the loose boulders and broken +rock; saw the summit hang further and further +over us as we advanced into the gloom at +its foot, and after finally reaching it and pressing +ourselves against it where it rose sheer +from its pedestal, we hurried back to camp +through the twilight, thoroughly awed by the +solemnity of the place.</p> + +<p>The storm of the morning had cleared into +a most perfect night; and, as we lay about the +fire, Billy told us all that the old men had told +him of the Chief. A full-blooded Piegan, in +his new life as a ranchman he had not lost +touch with the traditions of his tribe. Only +one Piegan, he said, had ever attempted to +climb the mountain. Years ago a hunting +party of their young men had been encamped +on the opposite side, where the cliffs do not +overhang so much, and ledges run temptingly +up for a distance; and one of them, the +youngest and most ambitious of the band, declared +that he would go to the summit. He +started, and his companions watched him from +below until he passed along one of the very +highest ledges, out of sight. Then the spirit<a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a> +of the mountain must have met him; for, +though they waited many days, and searched +for him all around the base, he never came +back. And the Piegans, being a prairie tribe +and not over fond of the mountains at best, +thereafter avoided any close acquaintance with +their king.</p> + +<p>A story had come to them, however, from +the Flatheads across the range—a tribe whose +prowess they always respected in war, as they +believed in their truthfulness in peace—and +as the story related to their mountain, they +had treasured it among their own legends. +Still earlier, many years before even the oldest +Piegan was a boy, there had lived a great Flathead +warrior, a man watched over by a spirit +so mighty that no peril of battle or of the hunt +could overcome him. When at last in his old +age he came to die, he told the young men his +long-kept secret. Many years before, as the +time approached for him to go off into the +forest and sleep his warrior sleep, in which he +hoped to see the vision which should be his +guide and protection through life, he had decided +to seek a spot and a spirit which had +never before been tried. So, carrying the +usual sacred bison skull for his pillow, he had<a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a> +crossed the mountains eastward into the far-off +Piegan country. Then, with none to aid him +save the steady power of his own courage, he +had ventured upon the ledges of the Chief of +the Mountains, and, choking down each gasp +of panic when at overhanging corners the +black walls seemed striving to thrust him off +and down, he had finally forced his way to the +very summit. For four days and nights he had +fasted there, sleeping in the great cleft which +one can see from far out on the prairie. On +each of the first three nights, with ever increasing +violence, the spirit of the mountain +had come to him and threatened to hurl him +off the face of the cliff if he did not go down +on the following day. Each time he had refused +to go, and had spent the day pacing the +summit, chanting his warrior song and waving +his peace pipe in the air as an offering, until +finally, on the fourth night, the spirit had +yielded, had smoked the pipe, and had given +him the token of his life. None of the young +Flatheads, however, said Billy, had dared to +follow their great warrior's example; so that to +this day he was the only man who had braved +the spirit of the Chief and made it his friend.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="crown2"></a> + +<img src="images/i010.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="443"> +<p class="caption">THE CHIEF'S CROWN, FROM THE EAST.</p></div> + + +<p>After we were rolled in our blankets, and<a name="Page_229" id="Page_229"></a> +the late moon, rising from the prairie ocean +behind us, had turned the dark, threatening +wall to cheering silver, we thought again of +the old warrior's steadfastness and longed to +make his example ours.</p> + +<hr style="visibility: hidden; margin: .4em;"> + +<p>The Doctor's thermometer marked 20 degrees +Fahrenheit when Fox called us, and the +morning bucket which he dashed over us was +flavored with more of the spirit of duty than +usual. But otherwise the weather had been +made for us. Yesterday's storm had beaten +down the smoke from Washington forest fires, +which had clouded everything for the past +month, and the Sweet Grass Hills twinkled +across one hundred miles of prairie as if at +our feet; and yet there was hardly a breath +of wind. Under the lee of the wall itself absolute +stillness brooded over ledges which even +a moderate breeze could have made dangerous. +We did not make an early start. The thing +could be done quickly if it could be done at +all, for there was only 1,500 feet of cliff.</p> + +<p>Our men did not give the attempt to reach +the summit from this, the eastern side, even +the scant compliment of a doubt; in their +minds its failure was certain, but they were<a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a> +willing to see how far we could get up. The +Doctor, too, had at first suggested, and with +perfect correctness, that to try a difficult side +of a mountain before reconnoitering the other +was bad mountaineering, to say the least. But, +on the other hand, this east side was the famous +side of the Chief—the side which every +passer-by on the prairie saw and wondered at. +With our glasses we had mapped a course +which seemed not impossible; was it not better +to meet our king face to face than to steal +on him from behind? Besides, this wonderful +weather might not last long enough for us to +reach the other side. And so our final conclusion +was to try the east face.</p> + +<p>Half way up the sheer face of the cliff was +divided horizontally by a broad, steep shelf +which ran nearly the length of the mountain. +That shelf could clearly be crossed at any +place; the difficulty would lie with the walls +below and above it. The lower one was bad +enough at best, but it was easy to recognize as +least bad a place where a slope of shale abutted +against it, shortening it some 300 feet. +The upper wall in general seemed even worse, +but it was furrowed by two deep chimneys, +side by side, one of which led into the moun<a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a>tain's +well-known cleft. The other chimney +seemed to lead directly to the summit, but its +lower mouth was inaccessible—cut off by overhanging +cliff. Our plan, therefore, if we could +ever reach the halfway shelf, was to use the +first chimney in the beginning, then try to find +a way around the dividing shoulder into the +second, then follow that to the top. And at +9 o'clock we began on the lower wall.</p> + +<p>Of course, the work which followed was not +so difficult as it had promised from below—rock +work rarely is—but it thoroughly taxed +our slender experience, and, for a single man +without a rope, must have been far worse. +The Doctor and I took turns in leading, carrying +up or having thrown to us from below a +rope, on which the others then ascended. Most +of the difficulty was thus confined to one man, +and he could often be assisted from beneath. +We were not skilled enough in the use of the +rope to risk tying ourselves together.</p> + +<p>Two hundred feet up came our first trouble, +perhaps the worst of the day. We were sidling +along a narrow shelf, with arms outstretched +against the wall above, when we +reached a spot where the shelf was broken +by a round protruding shoulder. Beyond it<a name="Page_232" id="Page_232"></a> +the ledge commenced again and seemed to +offer our only way upward. I was leading at +the time, and, after examining it, turned back +to a wider portion of the shelf for consultation. +It was not a place one would care to +try if there was an alternative.</p> + +<p>We braced the Indian against the wall, and +his skillful hand sent the lariat whirling up at +a sharp rock above our heads. Time after +time the noose settled fairly around it, but +found no neck to hold it, and came sliding +down. Then, almost before we knew it, the +Doctor had run out along the ledge to the +shoulder and had started around. For a moment +he hung, griping the rounded surface +with arms and knees; then a dangerous wriggle +and he was on the other side.</p> + +<p>Under his coaching the Indian and I followed; +but Fox, when half way, lost his head, +and barely succeeded in getting back to the +starting point. He would not try again. The +poor fellow's moccasins had lost some of their +nails and he had slipped once or twice that +morning, thus destroying the nerve of one +who had at other times shown himself a good +climber. But of the Indian's companionship +for the rest of the day we were now sure.<a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a></p> + +<p>Again, when near the top of that first wall, +and when the halfway ledge seemed almost +within our grasp, the shallow cleft—up which +we were scrambling—ended in a deep pocket +in the cliff's face, with no outlet above. The +Doctor tried it at one corner, but the treacherous +crumbling rock warned him back. I +tried it at another, but was stopped by an +overhang in the cliff. No help for it but to +go back and try to find a way around.</p> + +<p>Fifty feet below we landed on a small shelf +running horizontally along the mountain's face, +and, after following it northward a few moments, +we found another channel leading up. +The Doctor started to investigate it, while +Billy and I continued on slowly looking for +a better. Almost immediately, however, we +heard the Doctor shout "All right," and, following +him, came out at last upon the great +halfway shelf of the mountain.</p> + +<p>This was a steep slope of shale, which +seemed in places quite ready to slide in an +avalanche of loose rock over the edge of the +cliff below; but the relief of being out upon it, +and able once more to stand upright without +the sensation of a wall against your face, +apparently trying to shove you outward<a name="Page_234" id="Page_234"></a> +from your slender foothold, was simply indescribable.</p> + +<p>After crossing the shelf and eating our +lunch in the mouth of the first or left-hand +chimney, we attacked the upper wall. Following +up the chimney a short distance, we +found at last a narrow ledge leading to the +right, and, creeping around on it, I looked into +the right-hand chimney above its forbidding +mouth. It led as a broad, almost easy, staircase +clear to the top of the wall above, and +for the first time we felt as if our king were +really ours.</p> + +<p>Six or seven hundred feet more of steady +work, and we could feel the summit breeze +beginning to blow down the narrow mouth of +the chimney. Billy was then sent to the front, +and at half past one the first Piegan stepped +out on the summit of the Chief Mountain.</p> + +<p>It is a long ridge of disintegrated rock, +flanked at either end by lower rounded turrets, +and at its highest part is no wider than a +New England stone wall. On the opposite +western side the cliffs fell away as on our own, +but they seemed shorter, were composed of +looser rock, and far down below we could see +steep slopes of shale meeting them part way.<a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a> +After we had picked out our various landmarks +in the wonderful outlook about us, and +I had made my record from compass and barometer, +we pushed our way carefully along +to the highest point of the narrow ridge, in +order to mark it with a cairn of rocks. Just as +we reached it, the Indian, who was still in the +lead, suddenly stopped and pointed to the +ground. There, on the very summit of Chief +Mountain, safely anchored by rocks from the +effect of wind or tempest, lay a small, weather-beaten +bison skull. It was certainly one of +the very oldest I have ever seen. Even in the +pure air of that mountain top it had rotted +away until there was little else than the frontal +bone and the stubs on which had been the +horns. Billy picked it up and handed it to us +quietly, saying with perfect conviction, "The +old Flathead's pillow!"</p> + +<p>We left the skull where it had been found. +Much as we should have treasured it as a +token of that day, the devotion of the old +warrior who had brought it was an influence +quite sufficient to protect this memorial of his +visit. We shared his reverence far too much +to allow us to remove its offering. And then, +too, as Billy suggested, we were still on top of<a name="Page_236" id="Page_236"></a> +the Chief, and the Chief had certainly been +very forbearing to us. Those long walls, now +darkened by the afternoon shade, those narrow +ledges whence the downward climber could no +longer avoid seeing the stone he dislodged +bound, after two or three lengthening jumps, +clear to the pedestal below, loomed very suggestively +before his mind. But the Chief still +remained gracious, and Billy worked even +more steadily and sure-footedly going down +than in the morning. We had all gained confidence, +and besides we were certain of our +course. By 5 o'clock we had reached the last +bad place—where Fox had left us—and, after +avoiding that by swinging down hand over +hand on the rope from a ledge above, it was +only a few moments to the bottom.</p> + +<p>That night, after we were all safe in camp, +and the great cliff beamed down on us more +kindly than ever in the moonlight, the Doctor +and I decided that we had been more favored +than the old Flathead warrior, for the spirit of +our mountain had been with us even before we +reached its top.</p> + +<p>And for our success an explanation beyond +our physical powers seemed necessary to +others also; for, when a few days later we<a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a> +returned to the ranch in the St. Mary's Valley, +Billy, who had preceded us, met us with +the mien of the prophet who is denied by his +own, and told us that his cousins, the Bloods +from across the border, had suggested that, +when next he returned from a trip to the +range, he should bring them a likelier story +than that he had climbed the east face of the +Chief Mountain.</p> + +<p class="signature2">Henry L. Stimson.</p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_9" id="CHAPTER_9"></a>The Cougar</h2> + + +<p>It was upwards of twelve years ago that I +had been down to one of the Rio Grande River +towns herding up Mexicans, whom I expected +to aid me in discovering gold where none existed. +On my way down I had run across a +mountain lion making off with a lamb, and +shot and secured him after a little strategic +maneuvering. On the return journey, after I +had hired as many of the greasers as I desired, +I camped at night about twenty miles from +home, in a log cabin that had lost the door, +the roof and all the chinking from between +the logs.</p> + +<p>There was no reason to fear wild beasts—and +the cabin would have been no protection +for me even if there had been; nor was the +structure any protection from the numerous +cut-throat, horse-stealing Mexicans who flourished +in that section of the country as thickly +as cactus. However, I lariated my horse and +threw down my blankets in this tumble-down<a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a> +shack, and turned in. I have quite a habit of +sleeping on my back, and I was awakened some +time in the night by a feeling of oppression on +my chest. Having been accustomed to life +in a country where the Indians were rampant, +and where the wise man on awakening looked +about him before stirring, I opened my eyes +without moving, and there, standing directly +on my breast, looking me squarely in the face, +was a skunk, with its nose not, I swear, six +inches from my own.</p> + +<p>It was a bright moonlight night, and I could +see that the little devil was of the kind whose +bite is said to convey hydrophobia. But that +did not worry me; it was not the bite I feared. +I realized perfectly that if I moved I might +get myself into trouble. I knew that the only +thing for me to do was to let the skunk gambol +over me until he wearied of the pastime +and went out of the cabin.</p> + +<p>I have a lurking suspicion that that skunk +knew I was awake and in mental agony; for, +after looking me in the face, he ran down my +body on one leg and then up again, actually +smelling of one of my ears; and then he trotted +off me on to the floor of the cabin, where +he nosed about awhile, then up again on my<a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a> +body; and, after sprinting a few seconds over +my person, he went down and out of the cabin.</p> + +<p>So soon as he had disappeared out of the +door I jumped to my feet and, drawing my +gun, rushed out after him. He was plainly +visible just to the right of the cabin, and I +blazed away. Immediately after I had shot +him I regretted it, for I had to move camp.</p> + +<p>The next day, on my way back to camp, I +journeyed over a divide that was more or less +noted as a den for mountain lions; though to +designate any particular locality as a "den" +for cougars is incorrect, for it is not an animal +that remains in any one place for any great +length of time. He is a wandering pirate, +who makes no one district his home for any +long period.</p> + +<p>However, this especial divide was said to +harbor more of them than any other; or, at +least, there were more signs of them, and +more were reported to be started from there +by hunters than elsewhere in the territory. +Be that as it may, on the particular day of +which I write I accidentally ran across the +only cougar I ever have killed which gave me +a fight and stampeded my horse, so that I +was obliged to foot it into camp.<a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a></p> + +<p>I do not think the bronco is as fearful of +the cougar as of the bear, at least my experience +has not been such. I have had a mustang +jump pretty nearly from under me on +winding a bear, and I have wasted minutes +upon minutes in getting him near the carcass +of a dead one, that I might pack home a bit of +bruin's highly-scented flesh, and I never had +any similar experience where the cougar was +concerned. I have had my pony evince reluctance +to approach the slain lion, but not show +the absolute terror which seizes them in the +neighborhood of bear.</p> + +<p>My experience at this particular time, as I +say, was novel in two respects—first, the fright +with which my bronco was stricken; and second, +the fight shown by the cougar. I had +reached the top of the divide, and was picking +my way across the fallen timber, which so +often blocks the trail over the tops of divides +in New Mexico. I remember distinctly having +gained a clear spot that was pretty well +filled with wild violets, which grew in great +profusion thereabouts, and was guiding my +pony that I should not trample upon them; +for in that God-forsaken district, 10,000 feet +above the level of the sea, it seemed too bad<a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a> +to crush the life out of the dainty little flowers +that hold up their heads to the New Mexico +sunshine.</p> + +<p>Without warning, my bronco, which was +traveling along at a fox-trot, stopped suddenly, +and looking up I saw, not more than +fifty yards away, about as large a mountain +lion as I had ever encountered, standing motionless +and looking at us with utmost complacency. +To throw myself out of the saddle +and draw my Sharps-forty from the saddle +holster was the work of a very few seconds. +Throwing the bridle rein over my arm, I +slipped in a cartridge, and was just pulling +down on him when the cougar started off at a +swinging trot to one side at right angles to +where he had stood, and through some small +quaking aspens. Without thinking of the +bridle being over my arm, I knelt quickly in +order to get a better sight of the animal, and +almost simultaneously pressed the trigger.</p> + +<p>As I did so my bronco threw up his head, +which spoiled my aim, and, instead of sending +the ball through the cougar's heart, as I had +hoped to do, it went through the top of his +shoulders, making a superficial wound—not +sufficiently severe to interfere with his loco<a name="Page_243" id="Page_243"></a>motion, +as I immediately discovered; for, with +a combined screech and growl, that lion +wheeled in my direction, and made for me +with big jumps that were not exactly of +lightning rapidity, but were ground-covering +enough to create discomfort in the object of +his wrath.</p> + +<p>My bronco, meanwhile, was jumping all over +the ground, and I realized I could not hold +him and make sure of my aim. To swing +myself into the saddle and make away would +have been simple, but I knew enough of the +cougar to know that if I retreated, he, in his +fury, would be sure to follow; and on that +mountain side, with its fallen timber and rough +going, I should have little chance in a race +with him. I had no revolver to meet him in +the saddle at short range, and a knife was not +to my liking for any purpose, so far as an +infuriated cougar was concerned, except for +skinning him, once I had put sufficient lead +into his carcass to quiet his nerves. There +was nothing for me to do but fight it out on +foot; therefore I dropped the bridle rein and +turned the bronco loose (thinking he would +run his fright off in a short distance), and gave +myself up to the business of the moment,<a name="Page_244" id="Page_244"></a> +which, with the beast getting nearer every +instant, was becoming rather serious. I do +not know how others have felt under like +conditions; but there is something about the +look of a cougar on business bent, with its +greenish, staring eyes, that produces a most +uncomfortable sensation. I have been sent +up a tree post-haste by a bear, and I have +had an old bull moose give me an unpleasant +quarter of an hour, but I am sure I never +experienced a more disagreeable sensation +than when I looked through my rifle sights +at that loping lion. He did not seem to be in +any feverish anxiety to reach me, but there +was an earnest air about his progression that +was ominous.</p> + +<p>Under any circumstances, it is not altogether +pleasing to have a mountain lion, on his +busy day, making for you, and with only about +fifteen to twenty yards between him and his +quarry. I presume the delicacy of the situation +must have impressed itself upon me; for +my next shot, although I aimed for one of +those hideous eyes, missed far enough to clip +off a piece of skin from the top of his skull +and to whet his appetite for my gore. My +bullet seemed to give him an added impetus;<a name="Page_245" id="Page_245"></a> +for, with almost a single bound and a blood-chilling +screech, by the time I had put another +cartridge into my single-shot rifle, he was +practically on top of me. Fortunately, his +spring had landed him short, and in another +instant I had very nearly blown his entire +head off. He was a monster. I skinned him +and hung his pelt on a tree; and, on foot, +made my way into camp, after a fruitless +search for my bronco.</p> + +<p>I have killed five cougars, and this is the +only one that ever gave me a fight. I record +it with much pleasure, for there is an uncertainty +about the cougar's temperament and an +alacrity of movement that are altogether unsettling. +You never know in what mood you +find the mountain lion, and he does not seem +by any chance to be in the same one more +than once, for those I have shot have evinced +different dispositions; generally, however, +bordering on the cowardly. At times their +actions are sufficient to characterize them as +the veriest cowards in the world, and yet +again, on very slight provocation, they are +most aggressive and cruelly ferocious. There +are many well-authenticated stories, to be +had for the asking of any old mountaineer,<a name="Page_246" id="Page_246"></a> +of the unwonted craftiness and ferocity of the +cougar, and I suppose I could fill a couple +of chapters of this volume by recounting +yarns that have been told me during my +Western life.</p> + +<p>Between ourselves, I do not think hunting +the cougar is very much sport. It is an instructive +experience, and one, I think, every +hunter of big game should have; but, at the +same time, in my opinion it does not afford +the sport of still-hunting deer, antelope, elk, +moose or bears. In the first place, there is +really no time you can still-hunt the cougar +except in winter, when there is a light snow on +the ground, and at all times it is most difficult, +because you are dealing with an animal that +embodies the very quintessence of wariness, +and is ever on the lookout for prey and enemies. +You have to deal with an animal that +knows every crevice and hole of the mountain +side, that moves by night in preference to day, +and rarely travels in the open; whose great +velvety paws enable it to sneak about absolutely +unheard, and that will crouch in its lair +while you pass, perhaps within a dozen feet.</p> + +<p>Yet there are only two ways of really hunting +the mountain lion—by still-hunting and by<a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a> +baiting. I have tried baiting a number of +times, but have never found it successful. +Others, I understand, have found it so; but in +a score of cases, where I have provided tempting +morsels, and lain out all night in hopes of +getting a shot at the marauder, in none have I +been rewarded, and in only one or two have +I got a glimpse of a pair of shining eyes, that +disappeared in the gloom almost on the instant +of my discovering them.</p> + +<p>Probably the most successful method of getting +a shot at this wary beast is by hunting it +with dogs (though I never had the experience), +for the mountain lion has small lungs and +makes a short, fast race. With dogs on his +trail he is likely to take to a tree after a not +very long run, which rarely occurs when he is +still-hunted on foot. Yet, if the hunter values +the lives of his dogs, he must be sure of his +first shot, for the cougar is a tough customer +to tackle when in his death throes; and I have +been told, by those who have hunted in this +way, that many a young and promising dog +has had the life crushed out of him by the +dying lion. Their forelegs are short and very +powerful; but, curiously enough, unlike the +bear, they do not use them in cutting and<a name="Page_248" id="Page_248"></a> +slashing so much as in drawing the victim to +them to crush out its life with their strong +jaws.</p> + +<p>I have said, one never knows how to take +the cougar. Almost every mining camp in the +West will produce somebody who has met and +scared him to flight by a mere wave of the +hand or a shout, and that identical camp will +as like as not produce men that have had the +most trying experiences with the same animal. +It is this knowledge that makes you, to say +the least, a little uncomfortable when you +meet one of these creatures. I have had many +trying experiences of one kind and another, +and hunted many different kinds of game, but +none ever harassed my soul as the cougar +has. On one occasion I had been about five +miles from camp, prospecting for gold, which +I had discovered in such alluring quantities +as to keep me panning until darkness put an +end to my work and started me homeward. +It was a pretty dark night, and my trail lay +along the side of a mountain that was rather +thickly wooded and a pretty fair sort of hunting +country. I had left my cabin early in the +morning, intent on finding one of the numerous +fortunes that was confidently believed to<a name="Page_249" id="Page_249"></a> +be hidden away in those New Mexico gulches, +and was armed only with pick, shovel and pan. +I was sauntering along, beset by dreams of +prospective prosperity, based on the excellent +finds I had made, when suddenly in front of +me—I am sure not more than twenty-five feet—two +great balls of fire rudely awakened me +and brought my progress to an abrupt halt. I +dare say it took a second or two to bring me +down to earth, but when the earthward flight +was accomplished I immediately concluded +that those balls of fire must belong to a +mountain lion.</p> + +<p>At that time my experience with the cougar +had been sufficient to put me in an uncertain +frame of mind as to just what to expect of the +creature. I had not an idea whether he was +going to spring at me or whether I could scare +him away. However, on chance, I broke the +stillness of the night by one of those cowboy +yells, in the calliope variations of which I was +pretty well versed in those days, and, to my +immense relief, the two glaring balls of fire +disappeared.</p> + +<p>Trudging on my way, I had once more lost +myself in the roseate future incidental to +placers averaging three dollars in gold to the<a name="Page_250" id="Page_250"></a> +cubic yard, when, as suddenly as before, and +as directly in front of me, those two glaring +balls shone out like a hideous nightmare. This +time, I confess, I was a little bit annoyed. I +knew that, as a rule, mountain lions do not follow +you unless they are ravenous with hunger +or smell blood. I had not been hunting, and, +consequently, my clothes and hands were free +from gore, and I was therefore forced to the +sickening conclusion that this particular beast +had selected me as a toothsome morsel for its +evening repast. I cannot honestly say I was +flattered by the implied compliment, and, summoning +all my nerve, I reached for a rock and +hurled it at those eyes, to hear it crash into +the dry brush, and, greatly to my peace of +mind, to see the diabolical lights go out, for it +was too dark to distinguish the animal itself.</p> + +<p>Congratulating myself on the disappearance +of the hideous will-o'-the-wisp, I set out at a +five-mile-an-hour gait for camp. My castles in +the air had by this time quite dissolved, and I +was attending strictly to the business of the +trail, wishing camp was at hand instead of a +mile off, when once more those greenish lanterns +of despair loomed up ahead of me—not +more than a dozen feet away, it seemed. I<a name="Page_251" id="Page_251"></a> +presume the beast had been trailing me all the +time, though, after its second visitation, I kept +a sharp lookout without discovering it, but +evidently it had kept track of my movements.</p> + +<p>I had no proof of its being the same animal, +of course, but I was pretty well persuaded of +its identity, and I became thoroughly convinced +that this particular cougar had grown +weary of waiting for its supper, and was about +to begin its meal without even the courtesy of +"by your leave." The uncanny feature of the +experience was that not a sound revealed its +approach on any occasion, and I had no intimation +of its call until it dropped directly in +my path. I leaned against a friendly tree and +thought pretty hard, watching the animal most +intently to see that it did not advance. It +stood there as still as death, so far as I could +distinguish, not moving even its head, and the +steady glare of its eyes turned full upon me.</p> + +<p>I made up my mind that, if the animal was +going to feast on me that evening, I would +disarrange its digestion, if possible. My short-handled +prospecting pick was the nearest approach +I had to a weapon, and, summoning all +my ancient baseball skill, and feeling very carefully +all around me to see that there were no<a name="Page_252" id="Page_252"></a> +intervening branches to arrest its flight, I +hurled that pick at those two shining eyes, +with a fervid wish that it might land between +them. My aim was true and it landed—just +where I cannot say, but I do know that it +struck home; for, with a screech calculated to +freeze one's blood, and a subsequent growl, +the lion made off. For the rest of the mile to +camp I had eyes on all sides of the path at +once, but I was not molested.</p> + +<p>I have since often wondered whether hunger +or pure malice possessed that brute. Owen +Wister, to whom I told the story not very long +ago, suggested curiosity, and I am half inclined +to believe his interpretation; for, if hunger had +been the incentive, it seems as if a tap on the +nose with a prospecting pick would not have +appeased it, though the cougar's propensity +for following people, out of unadulterated +wantonness to frighten them, is well known. +At any rate, he showed his cowardly side +that trip.</p> + +<p>The cougar is a curious beast, capricious as +a woman. One day he follows his prey stealthily +until the proper opportunity for springing +upon it comes; again he will race after a +deer in the open; at one time he will flee at<a name="Page_253" id="Page_253"></a> +a shout, at another he will fight desperately. +They are powerful animals, particularly in the +fore quarters. I have seen one lope down a +mountain side, through about six inches of +snow, carrying a fawn by the nape of the neck +in its jaws, and swinging the body clear.</p> + +<p>In the West generally, I think, the lion is +considered cowardly—a belief I share, though +agreeing with Theodore Roosevelt, who in +"The Wilderness Hunter" says cougars, and, +in fact, all animals vary in moods just as much +as mankind. Because of their feline strategy +and craftiness, they are most difficult animals +to hunt; I know none more so. Neither do I +know of any beast so likely to still the tenderfoot's +heart. Their cry is as terror-striking as +it is varied. I have heard them wail so you +would swear an infant had been left out in the +cold by its mamma; I have heard them screech +like a woman in distress; and, again, growl +after the conventional manner attributed to +the monarch of the forest. The average camp +dog runs to cover when a cougar is awakening +the echoes of the mountain. I should call it +lucky, for those who hunt with dogs, that the +lion does not pierce the atmosphere by his +screeches when being hunted; for, if he did, I<a name="Page_254" id="Page_254"></a> +fear it would be a difficult matter to keep dogs +on his trail. There seems to be something +about his screeching that particularly terrorizes +dogs.</p> + +<p class="signature2">Casper W. Whitney.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255"></a> +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="yaks"></a> + +<img src="images/i011.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="531"> +<p class="caption">YAKS GRAZING.</p></div> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_10" id="CHAPTER_10"></a>Big Game of Mongolia and Tibet</h2> + + +<p>From remote antiquity hunting has been a +favorite pastime of the emperors of China, +but at no time has it been conducted with such +magnificence as under the Mongol dynasty in +the thirteenth century and during the reigning +Manchu one.</p> + +<p>Marco Polo's account of a hunt of Kublai +Khan reads like a fairy tale. The Emperor +left his capital every year in March for a hunting +expedition in Mongolia, accompanied by all +his barons, thousands of followers and innumerable +beaters. "He took with him," says +Polo, "fully 10,000 falconers and some 500 +gerfalcons, besides peregrines, sakers and +other hawks in great numbers, including goshawks, +to fly at the waterfowl. He had also +numbers of hunting leopards (<i>cheetah</i>) and +lynxes, lions, leopards, wolves and eagles, +trained to catch boars and wild cattle, bears, +wild asses, stags, wolves, foxes, deer and wild +goats, and other great and fierce beasts.<a name="Page_256" id="Page_256"></a></p> + +<p>"The Emperor himself is carried upon four +elephants in a fine chamber, made of timber, +lined inside with plates of beaten gold and +outside with lions' skins. And sometimes, as +they may be going along, and the Emperor +from his chamber is holding discourse with the +barons, one of the latter shall exclaim: 'Sire, +look out for cranes!' Then the Emperor instantly +has the top of his chamber thrown +open, and, having marked the cranes, he casts +one of his gerfalcons, whichever he pleases; +and often the quarry is struck within his view, +so that he has the most exquisite sport and +diversion there, as he sits in his chamber or +lies on his bed; and all the barons with him +get the enjoyment of it likewise. So it is not +without reason I tell you that I do not believe +there ever existed in the world, or ever will +exist, a man with such sport and enjoyment as +he has, or with such rare opportunities."</p> + +<p>In the latter part of the seventeenth century, +during the reign of the Emperor K'ang-hsi, +Father Gérbillon followed the Emperor several +times on his hunting expeditions into +Mongolia, and has told us in his accounts of +these journeys of the enthusiasm and skill displayed +by the Emperor in the pursuit of game,<a name="Page_257" id="Page_257"></a> +which he usually shot with arrows, though he +also had hawks and greyhounds with him.</p> + +<p>I find no mention of the use of firearms in +these imperial hunts, nor do I believe that +it has ever been considered, by the Tartars +and Mongols, sportsmanlike to use them.</p> + +<p>Coursing and hawking were probably introduced +into China and Mongolia after the +Mongol conquest of Western Asia, where +those royal sports had then been in vogue +for a long time. At present the Manchus +keep great numbers of hawks, caught for the +most part in the northern portion of the province +of Shan-hsi, and with them they take +hares and cranes. Greyhounds are no longer +numerous in Mongolia and China, though they +are much prized, and I have seen some among +the Ordos Mongols and in Manchu garrisons. +They were short-haired, of a clear tan color +with black points, and showed good blood in +their small tails and depth of chest.</p> + +<p>Besides the great annual hunts on the +steppes—which, leaving aside the sport and +incidental invigorating influence on the courtiers, +helped, by the vast numbers of troops +which took part in them, to keep quiet the +then turbulent Mongol tribes—the emperors<a name="Page_258" id="Page_258"></a> +of China have had, at different times, great +hunting parks, inclosed by high walls, at convenient +distances from their capital, or even in +close proximity to it, where they could indulge +their fondness for the chase. Several of these +parks (called <i>wei chang</i>) are still preserved +for imperial hunts, and one I visited in 1886, +to the north of Jehol and about six days' +travel from Peking, is some ninety miles long +from north to south, and over thirty miles +from east to west. It is well stocked with +pheasants, roebucks, stags, and, it is said, there +are also tigers and leopards in it. The park +is guarded by troops, and any person caught +poaching in it, besides receiving corporal punishment, +is exiled for a period of a year and +a half to two years to a distant town of the +empire. During my visit to this park, I and +my three companions camped just outside one +of the gates, and, by paying the keepers a +small sum, we were able to get daily a few +hours' shooting in a little valley inside the +wall and near our camp. Though we had +no dogs, and lost all the winged birds and +wounded hares, we bagged in nine or ten days +over 500 pheasants, 150 hares, 100 partridges +and a few ducks.<a name="Page_259" id="Page_259"></a></p> + +<p>A mile or so south of Peking is another +famous hunting park, called the <i>Nan-hai-tzu</i>, +in which is found that remarkable deer, not +known to exist in a wild state in any other +spot, called <i>Cervus davidi</i>. Of late years a +number of these deer have been raised in the +imperial park of Uwino at Tokio, and also in +the Zoölogical Garden of Berlin, where a pair +were sent by the German Minister to China, +Mr. Von Brandt. This deer is known to the +Chinese as the <i>ssu-pu-hsiang-tzu</i>, "the four +dissimilarities," because, while its body shows +points of resemblance to those of the deer, +horse, cow and ass, it belongs to neither of +those four species—so say the Chinese.</p> + +<p>The Chinese proper show but rarely any +great love for sport. They are fond of fishing, +and I have seen some very good shots among +them, especially at snipe shooting, when, with +their match-locks fired from the hip, they will +frequently do snap shooting of which any of +our crack shots might be proud. But the +Chinese are essentially pot hunters, and have +no sportsmanlike instincts as have the Manchus +and Mongols, with whom sport is one of +the pleasures of life, though it is also a source +of profit to many Mongol tribes. In winter<a name="Page_260" id="Page_260"></a> +they supply with game—deer, boars, antelope, +hares, pheasants and partridges—the Peking +market, bringing them there frozen from remote +corners of their country.</p> + +<p>Among the big game in the northern part +of the Chinese Empire the first place properly +belongs to tigers and leopards. In Korea +tigers are quite common, and a special corps +of tiger hunters was kept up until recently by +the Government. The usual method of killing +tigers is to make a pitfall in a narrow +path along which one has been found to travel, +and on either side of it a strong fence is +erected. When the tiger has fallen into the +pit, he is shot to death or speared. The skin +belongs to the king, and the hunters are rewarded +by him for each beast killed. The +skins are used to cover the seats of high dignitaries, +to whom they are given by the king, +as are also the skins of leopards; and tigers' +whiskers go to ornament the hats of certain +petty officials.</p> + +<p>Leopards are so numerous in Korea that I +have known of two being killed within a few +weeks inside of the walls of Seoul.</p> + +<p>Tigers are also found in Manchuria, and, as +before mentioned, in parts of northern and<a name="Page_261" id="Page_261"></a> +southeastern China. I have seen the skin of +a small one hanging as an <i>ex voto</i> offering in +a lama temple near the Koko-Nor, and was told +that it had been killed not far from that spot. +Colonel Prjevalsky, however, says that the +tiger is not found in northwestern China; so +the question remains an open one.</p> + +<p>Leopards, at all events, are common in +northeastern and northwestern China, in the +hunting parks north of Peking, in the mountains +of northwest Kan-su and to the south of +Koko-Nor. Bears are common from northern +Korea to the Pamirs. The Chinese distinguish +two varieties, which they call "dog bear" +or "hog bear," and "man bear." The first is +a brown bear, and the latter, which is found on +the high barren plateaus to the north of Tibet, +where it makes its food principally of the little +lagomys or marmots, which live there in great +numbers, has for this reason been called by +Colonel Prjevalsky <i>Ursus lagomyarius</i>. I +killed one weighing over 600 pounds, whose +claws were larger and thicker than those of +any grizzly I have seen. Its color is a rusty +black, with a patch of white on the breast.</p> + +<p>Besides these two varieties of bears, there is +another animal, which, though it is not proper<a name="Page_262" id="Page_262"></a>ly +a bear, resembles one so closely that it is +classed by the Chinese and Tibetans in that +family. It is known to the Chinese as <i>hua +hsiung</i>, or "mottled bear," and Milne Edwards, +who studied and described it, has called it <i>Ailuropus +melanoleucus</i>. This animal was, I believe, +discovered by that enterprising missionary +and naturalist, Father Armand David (who +called it "white bear"), in the little eastern +Tibetan principality of Dringpa or Mupin, in +western Ssu-ch'uan.<a name="FNanchor_13" id="FNanchor_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> Five specimens have so +far been secured of this very rare animal: +three are in the Jardin des Plantes of Paris, +the other two in the Museum at the Jesuits' +establishment, at Zikawei, near Shanghai.</p> + +<p>The stag or red deer ("horse deer" in Chinese) +is found in Manchuria and northern Korea, +and the Tibetan variety, called <i>shawo</i>, must +be very abundant in portions of eastern Tibet, +to judge from the innumerable loads of horns +which I have passed while traveling through +eastern Tibet on the way to China, in which +latter country they are used in the preparation +of toilet powder. There is also a small deer +in the mountains of Alashan, in western Kan-su +and Ssu-ch'uan, and in the Ts'aidam; but I<a name="Page_263" id="Page_263"></a> +know nothing concerning it save its Mongol +name, <i>bura</i>, and its Chinese, <i>yang lu</i>, or "sheep +deer." Prjevalsky, however, gives some interesting +details concerning it. Some Chinese +mention a third variety, called <i>mei lu</i>, or +"beautiful deer," said to live in the Koko-Nor +country.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="ailuropus"></a> + +<img src="images/i012.png" border="0" alt="" title="" width="700" height="601"> +<p class="caption">AILUROPUS MELANOLEUCUS.</p></div> + + + +<p>The musk deer is found in most parts of the +Himalayas and Tibet, and as far northeast as +Lan-chou, on the Yellow River, in the Chinese +province of Kan-su. It is hunted wherever +found, and nearly all the musk ultimately +finds its way to Europe or America, as it is +not used to any great extent by either Tibetans, +Chinese or any of the other peoples in +whose countries it is procured; the Chinese +only use a small quantity in the preparation +of some of their medicines. They distinguish +two varieties of musk deer: one, having tusks +much larger than the other, is called "yellow +musk deer."</p> + +<p>Next in importance among the game of this +region we find the <i>Antilope gutturosa</i> and the +<i>Ovis burhil</i>, or "mountain goat," which range +from eastern Mongolia to western Tibet. But +more important than these from a sportsman's +point of view is the <i>argali</i>, of which Col. Prje<a name="Page_264" id="Page_264"></a>valsky +distinguishes two varieties: the <i>Ovis argali</i>, +ranging along the northern bend of the +Yellow River, between Kuei-hua Ch'eng and +Alashan; and the white-breasted <i>argali</i>, or <i>Ovis +poli</i>, ranging from the Ts'aidam and western +Ssu-ch'uan to the Pamirs.</p> + +<p>The name <i>argali</i> is, I think, an unfortunate +one to give to this species, as it is a Mongol +word solely used to designate the female animal, +the male of which is called <i>kuldza</i>.</p> + +<p>The <i>Antilope hodgsoni</i>, called <i>orongo</i> in +Mongol, has about the same range as the <i>Ovis +poli</i>. It is by far the most beautiful antelope +of this region—the long, graceful, lyre-shaped +horns, which it carries very erect when running, +being frequently over two feet in length.</p> + +<p>Although, to my mind, what are commonly +regarded as cattle should no more be considered +game when wild than when tame, still, as +I am perhaps alone of this opinion, I must +note, among the game animals of this part of +Asia, yaks and asses, which are found in western +Mongolia, Turkestan and in many parts +of Tibet, especially the wild northern country, +or Chang-t'ang.</p> + +<p>The wild yak is invariably black, with short, +rather slender horns (smaller than our buffa<a name="Page_265" id="Page_265"></a>lo's), +bending gracefully forward. The head +is large, but well proportioned, and the eyes +quite large, but with a very wild look in them. +The legs are short and very heavy, the hoofs +straight and invariably black. The hair, which +hangs down over the body and legs, the face +alone excepted, is wavy, and on the sides, belly +and legs is so long that it reaches within a few +inches of the ground. The tail is very bushy +and reaches to the hocks, all the hair being of +such uniform length that it looks as if it were +trimmed. When running, the yak carries its +tail high up or even over its back, and when +frightened or angered holds it straight out +behind.</p> + +<p>The calves have a grunt resembling that of +the hog, hence the name <i>Bos grunniens</i>, but in +the grown animal it is rarely heard; it is at +best only a dull, low sound, unworthy of such +a big, savage-looking beast. The bones of the +yak are so heavy that it is nearly impossible to +kill one except by shooting it through the heart +or wounding it in some equally vital spot. +Although I have shot a great many of these +animals in northern Tibet, I have never bagged +any except when shot as above mentioned, +nor have I ever broken the limb of one. It is<a name="Page_266" id="Page_266"></a> +true that I have done all my shooting with a +.44 caliber Winchester carbine, which was entirely +too light for the purpose.</p> + +<p>The yak is not a dangerous animal except +in the case of a solitary bull, which will sometimes +charge a few yards at a time, till he falls +dead at the hunter's feet, riddled with bullets. +When in large bands yaks run at the first shot, +rushing down ravines, through snow banks and +across rivers, without a moment's hesitation, in +a wild stampede.</p> + +<p>Mongol and Tibetan hunters say that one +must never shoot at a solitary yak whose horns +have a backward curve, as he will certainly +prove dangerous when wounded; but the same +beast may be shot at with impunity if in a +band. In fact, the natives never shoot at +yaks except when in a good-sized bunch. Natives +usually hunt them by twos and threes, +and, after stalking to within a hundred yards +or even less, they all blaze away at the same +time.</p> + +<p>The number of yaks on the plateaus north +of Tibet is very considerable, but there are no +such herds as were seen of buffaloes on our +plains until within a few years. I have never +seen over 300 in a herd, but Col. Prjevalsky<a name="Page_267" id="Page_267"></a> +says that when he first visited the country +around the sources of the Yellow River, in +1870, he saw herds there of a thousand head +and more. Yaks are enormous feeders, and, +in a country as thinly covered with grass as +that in which they roam, they must travel +great distances to secure enough food. As it +is, it is the rarest thing in the world to find +even in July or August fine grazing in any +part of this country; the yaks keep the grass +as closely cut as would a machine.</p> + +<p>In some of the wildest districts of western +China a wild ox (<i>budorcas</i>) is still found. Father +Armand David thus describes it (<i>Nouvelles +Archives du Museum de Paris</i>, X., 17): +"It is a kind of <i>ovibos</i>, with very short tail, +black and sharp horns, with broad bases touching +on the forehead; its ears are small, and, as +it were, cropped obliquely. The iris is of a +dirty yellow gold color, the pupil oblong and +horizontal. The fur is quite long and of a +dirty white color, with a dash of brown on the +hind quarters."</p> + +<p>The wild ass is no longer found, I believe, +to the east of the Koko-Nor, but from that +meridian as far west as Persia is met with in +large numbers, and in the wilds to the north of<a name="Page_268" id="Page_268"></a> +Tibet in vast herds, quite as large and numerous +as those of yaks.</p> + +<p>The wild ass (called <i>kulan</i> or <i>hulan</i> in Mongol) +stands about twelve hands high, and is +invariably of a tan color, with a dark line running +down the back, and white on the belly, +neck and feet. The tail is rather short, and +thinly covered with hair; the head is broad, +heavy, and too large for the body of the animal. +It carries its head very high when in +motion, and when trotting its tail is nearly +erect. Its usual gait is a trot or a run. A +herd always moves in single file, a stallion +leading. As a rule, a stallion has a small +band of ten or twelve mares, which he herds +and guards with jealous care day and night. +Frequently these bands run together and form +herds of 500 or even of 1,000.</p> + +<p>One often meets solitary jackasses wandering +about; they have been deprived of their +band of mares in a fight with some stronger +male. These have frequently proved most +troublesome to me; they would round up +and drive off my ponies—all of which were +mares—to add to the little nucleus of a band +they had hidden away in some lonely nook in +the hills. I have frequently had to lose days<a name="Page_269" id="Page_269"></a> +at a time hunting for my horses, and I finally +made it a point to shoot all such animals +that came near my camp; though I had a +strong dislike to killing them—they looked +so like tame asses—and I never could see any +sport in it, though the meat was good enough—much +better than yak flesh.</p> + +<p>The <i>hulan</i> is very fleet and has wonderfully +acute hearing, but it possesses too great curiosity +for its own safety; it will generally circle +around the hunter if not shot at, and come +quite near to have a look at the strange, +unknown animal.</p> + +<p>It is said that wild camels and horses are +found in some of the remoter corners of southwestern +Turkestan and south of Lob-Nor, and +specimens of them have been secured by +Prjevalsky, Grijimailo and Littledale. The +question is now whether these animals are +domesticated ones run wild, or really wild +varieties. Naturalists will probably disagree +on this point. For the time being these animals +are too little known for me to express +an opinion on the subject, and, not having +seen any, I can add nothing to what has been +written on the subject.</p> + +<p>My own shooting in Mongolia and Tibet<a name="Page_270" id="Page_270"></a> +has always been under difficulties. Traveling +without European companions, and my Asiatic +one not knowing how to handle our firearms, +I have been able to give but little time to +sport. When pressed for food, however, I +have killed yaks, asses, <i>argali</i>, mountain sheep +and antelope; I have also bagged a few bears +and leopards; but, as my only rifle was rather +for purposes of defense than for shooting +game, I never went much out of my way to +look up these animals, though I felt great confidence +in my good little Winchester, having +killed the largest yak I ever shot at, and a fine +bear, each with one shot from it.</p> + +<p>The game I mostly shot while in Tibet was +yak; but, as I never killed any save for meat—not +believing in the theory of destroying animal +life for the sake of trophies to hang upon +the wall—I made no phenomenal bags, though +big game was so plentiful in many sections of +the country that even with a native match-lock +it would have been possible to have killed +many more animals than I did.</p> + +<p>The yak I approached at first with considerable +trepidation, as I had read in various +books of their savageness and of the danger +that the hunter was exposed to from one of<a name="Page_271" id="Page_271"></a> +these big animals when wounded; but now I +am wiser, and I can reassure those who would +kill these big beasts; they look more dangerous +than they really are, and will hardly ever push +their charge home, even when badly wounded. +The first time I saw them we were traveling +up a rather open valley beside a frozen rivulet, +where, upon reaching the top of a little swell, +some six or eight hundred yards off, were a +couple of hundred yaks coming down toward +the stream to try and find a water hole. I +made signs to the men behind me to stop, and, +jumping from my horse, I crawled along to +within about 200 yards of them, when I blazed +away at the biggest I could pick out, standing +a little nearer to me than the rest of the +herd. They paid hardly any attention to the +slight report of my rifle; only the one at +which I shot advanced a short distance in +the direction of the smoke and then stopped, +waving his great bushy tail over his back and +holding his head erect. I fired again, when he +and the rest of the herd turned and ran on to +the ice, where I opened fire on them once +more. They seemed puzzled by the noise, +but my bullets did not seem to harm them. +Finally one charged and then another, and<a name="Page_272" id="Page_272"></a> +at last the whole herd came dashing up in my +direction; but "I lay very low," especially as at +this seemingly critical moment I found that I +had no more cartridges in my gun. After +awhile they turned and trotted back to the +river, and I made for my horse, much disappointed +at my apparent failure to do any of +them any injury.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="elaphurus"></a> + +<img src="images/i013.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="590"> +<p class="caption">ELAPHURUS DAVIDIANUS.</p></div> + + +<p>In the meantime my men had pushed on +about half a mile, and we stopped in a little +nook to take a cup of tea. Having here supplied +myself with cartridges, I thought I would +try to get another shot at the yaks, some of +which I could still see on the mountain side +beyond the stream. My delight was great +when, coming up to the place where I had last +seen them, a big bull was lying dead, shot +through the heart.</p> + +<p>The only time I ever encountered a solitary +bull he bluffed us so completely that I do not +know but my reputation as a sportsman will +suffer materially by mentioning the incident. +One day, as we were rounding the corner of a +hill, we saw an immense fellow, not 200 yards +off; and my two big mastiffs, which by this +time were getting hardly any food—as our +stock of provisions was running very short, and<a name="Page_273" id="Page_273"></a> +who passed most of their time while we were +on the march vainly chasing hares, marmots +and any other animals they could see—made a +dash for the yak and commenced snapping at +him. He trotted slowly off, but soon, becoming +angry, turned on the dogs, who came back +to the caravan. He followed them until within +twenty yards of us. All my recollections of the +dangers encountered by Prjevalsky with yaks, +all his remarks of the extraordinary thickness +and impenetrability of their skulls, of the difficulty +of killing these monstrous animals, and +of their ferociousness when wounded, came +vividly to my mind in an instant. I saw my +mules and horses gored and bleeding on the +ground, my expedition brought to an untimely +end, and a wounded yak waving his tail triumphantly +over us, for I was certain that with my +light Winchester I could never drop him dead +in his tracks. We did not even dare so much +as look at him, but kept on our way, and the +yak walked beside us, evidently rejoicing in his +victory. The dogs, now thoroughly cowed, +took refuge on the side of the caravan furthest +from the infuriated animal, and so we marched +on for about half a mile, when, in utter disgust, +he turned and trotted off to the <a name="tn_pg_295"></a><!-- TN: Removed period after "hillside"-->hillside<a name="Page_274" id="Page_274"></a> +where he stood watching us, his bushy tail +stretched out as stiff as iron behind him, pawing +the ground, and thus we left him.</p> + +<p>Shooting wild asses was much tamer business. +We saw them sometimes in herds of +five or six hundred. They would mix with our +mules even when grazing around the camp, and +often took them off five or six miles, when we +had great difficulty in getting them back. We +frequently, however, killed one for meat, which +we found to be very savory; though most of +my men, who were Mahomedans, would only +eat it when very hard pushed by hunger, as +their religion forbade them to eat the flesh of +any animal without cloven hoofs. I always +felt, however, in shooting these animals, as if +I were destroying a domestic mule, and could +never bring myself to look upon them as fit +game for a sportsman. This was strongly impressed +upon me one day when, desiring to +get a fine specimen, whose skin and bones I +could bring back for the National Museum, I +shot a very large jack which was grazing some +distance from our line of march, and broke its +hind legs, and was then obliged to go up to +the poor beast and put a ball into its head. +After accomplishing this disagreeable duty in<a name="Page_275" id="Page_275"></a> +the interest of science—though to no purpose, +as it turned out, for I was obliged to throw +away the skin and bones a few days after, +because I had no means of transporting them—I +made a solemn promise to myself that I +would never shoot a <i>kyang</i> again; and, I am +pleased to say, I broke my promise but twice, +and then I did so only to give us food, of +which we stood in great need.</p> + +<p>Shooting antelope in Tibet is not more exciting—or +interesting, for that matter—than +shooting them elsewhere, and I do not know +that anything special can be said about this +sport beyond the fact that the number of +Hodgson antelope which we met in parts of +northern Tibet was sometimes extraordinarily +great. These animals suffer greatly, however, +from some plague, which frequently sweeps off +enormous numbers of them. I have passed +over places where the bones of a hundred or +more of them might be seen, one near the +other; and districts which I had visited in 1889, +and where I had found great numbers of them, +were absolutely without a sign of one when I +was there again in 1892.</p> + +<p>Of bear-hunting I can say but little. On +different occasions, in various parts of north<a name="Page_276" id="Page_276"></a>ern +Tibet, I killed six or eight pretty good +sized brown bears; but a man would have to +be blind not to be able to hit one at twenty-five +or thirty yards, and it is always possible +to get as near them as that, even in the open +country which they frequent. They have apparently +no dens, but live in the holes in the +ground which they dig to get the little marmots +on which they feed. These bears are, +however, very fleet, as I once or twice found +out when trying to ride them down on horseback, +and when they nearly proved a match +for the best ponies I had. The natives stand +in great dread of them, and will never attack +them except when there are three or four men +together, when they approach them from different +directions and open fire all at the same +time. They say these bears are man-eaters, +and even when the men with me saw them +lying dead they showed great repugnance to +touch the body, or even to come near them; +though they might have made eight or ten +dollars by splitting them open and removing +the gall—a highly-prized medicine among the +Chinese, who also find a place for bears' paws +in their pharmacopœia.</p> + +<p>On the whole, though Korea, Mongolia and<a name="Page_277" id="Page_277"></a> +Tibet have plenty of big game, they are not +countries for a sportsman, and unless he has +some other hobby to take him there, he had +better seek his fun elsewhere in more accessible +quarters of the globe.</p> + +<p class="signature2">W. W. Rockhill.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13" id="Footnote_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> See <i>Nouvelles +Archives du Museum de Paris</i>, X., pp. 18 and 20.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_11" id="CHAPTER_11"></a>Hunting in the Cattle Country</h2> + + +<p>The little hunting I did in 1893 and 1894 +was while I was at my ranch house, or while +out on the range among the cattle; and I shot +merely the game needed for the table by myself +and those who were with me. It is still +possible in the cattle country to kill an occasional +bighorn, bear or elk; but nowadays +the only big game upon which the ranchman +of the great plains can safely count are deer +and antelope. While at the ranch house itself, +I rely for venison upon shooting either blacktail +in the broken country away from the river, +or else whitetail in the river bottoms. When +out on the great plains, where the cattle range +freely in the summer, or when visiting the +line camps, or any ranch on the heads of the +longer creeks, the prongbuck furnishes our +fresh meat.</p> + +<p>In both 1893 and 1894 I made trips to a +vast tract of rolling prairie land, some fifty +miles from my ranch, where I have for many<a name="Page_279" id="Page_279"></a> +years enjoyed the keen pleasure of hunting the +prongbuck. In 1893 the pronghorned bands +were as plentiful in this district as I have +ever seen them anywhere. A friend, a fellow +Boone and Crockett man, Alexander Lambert, +was with me; and in a week's trip, including +the journey out and back, we easily +shot all the antelope we felt we had any right +to kill; for we only shot to get meat, or an +unusually fine head.</p> + +<p>In antelope shooting more cartridges are +expended in proportion to the amount of +game killed than with any other game, because +the shots are generally taken at long +range; and yet, being taken in the open, there +is usually a chance to use four or five cartridges +before the animal gets out of sight. +These shots do not generally kill, but every +now and then they do; and so the hunter is +encouraged to try them, especially as after the +first shot the game has been scared anyway, +and no harm results from firing the others.</p> + +<p>In 1893, Lambert, who was on his first hunt +with the rifle, did most of the shooting, and I +myself fired at only two antelope, both of +which had already been missed. In each case +a hard run and much firing at long ranges, to<a name="Page_280" id="Page_280"></a>gether +with in one case some skillful maneuvering, +got me my game; yet one buck cost +nine cartridges and the other eight. In 1894 +I had exactly the reverse experience. I killed +five antelope for thirty-six shots, but each one +that I killed was killed with the first bullet, +and in not one case where I missed the first +time did I hit with any subsequent one. +These five antelope were shot at an average +distance of about 150 yards. Those that I +missed were, of course, much further off on an +average, and I usually emptied my magazine +at each. The number of cartridges spent +would seem extraordinary to a tyro; and a +very unusually skillful shot, or else a very +timid shot who fears to take risks, will of +course make a better showing per head killed; +but I doubt if men with much experience in +antelope hunting, who keep an accurate account +of the cartridges they expend, will see +anything out of the way in the performance. +During the thirteen years I have hunted in +the West I have always, where possible, kept +a record of the number of cartridges expended +for every head of game killed, and of the distances +at which it was shot. I have found +that with bison, bears, moose, elk, caribou, big-<a name="Page_281" id="Page_281"></a>horn +and white goats, where the animals shot +at were mostly of large size and usually stationary, +and where the mountainous or wooded +country gave chance for a close approach, the +average distance at which I have killed the +game has been eighty yards, and the average +number of cartridges expended per head slain +three: one of these representing the death +shot and the others standing either for misses +outright, of which there were not very many, +or else for wounding game which escaped, or +which I afterward overtook, or for stopping +cripples or charging beasts. I have killed but +one cougar and two peccaries, using but one +cartridge for each; all three were close up. +At wolves and coyotes I have generally had to +take running shots at very long range, and I +have killed but two for fifty cartridges. Blacktail +deer I have generally shot at about ninety +yards, at an expenditure of about four cartridges +apiece. Whitetail I have killed at +shorter range; but the shots were generally +running, often taken under difficult circumstances, +so that my expenditure of cartridges +was rather larger. Antelope, on the other hand, +I have on the average shot at a little short +of 150 yards, and they have cost me about nine<a name="Page_282" id="Page_282"></a> +cartridges apiece. This, of course, as I have +explained above, does not mean that I have +missed eight out of nine antelope, for often +the entire nine cartridges would be spent at +an antelope which I eventually got. It merely +means that, counting all the shots of every +description fired at antelope, I had one head +to show for each nine cartridges expended. +Thus, the first antelope I shot in 1893 cost me +ten cartridges, of which three hit him, while +the seven that missed were fired at over 400 +yards' distance while he was running. We saw +him while we were with the wagon. As we +had many miles to go before sunset, we cared +nothing about frightening other game, and, as +we had no fresh meat, it was worth while to +take some chances to procure it. When I +first fired, the prongbuck had already been +shot at and was in full flight. He was beyond +all reasonable range, but some of our bullets +went over him and he began to turn. By running +to one side I got a shot at him at a little +over 400 paces, as he slowed to a walk, bewildered +by the firing, and the bullet broke his +hip. I missed him two or three times as he +plunged off, and then by hard running down +a water course got a shot at 180 paces and<a name="Page_283" id="Page_283"></a> +broke his shoulder, and broke his neck with +another bullet when I came up. This one +was shot while going out to the hunting +ground. While there, Lambert killed four +or five; most of the meat we gave away. I +did not fire again until on our return, when +I killed another buck one day while we were +riding with the wagon.</p> + +<p>The day was gray and overcast. There +were slight flurries of snow, and the cold wind +chilled us as it blew across the endless reaches +of sad-colored prairie. Behind us loomed Sentinel +Butte, and all around the rolling surface +was broken by chains of hills, by patches of bad +lands, or by isolated, saddle-shaped mounds. +The ranch wagon jolted over the uneven +sward, and plunged in and out of the dry +beds of the occasional water courses; for we +were following no road, but merely striking +northward across the prairie toward the P. K. +ranch. We went at a good pace, for the afternoon +was bleak, the wagon was lightly loaded, +and the Sheriff, who was serving for the nonce +as our teamster and cook, kept the two gaunt, +wild-looking horses trotting steadily. Lambert +and I rode to one side on our unkempt cow +ponies, our rifles slung across the saddle bows.<a name="Page_284" id="Page_284"></a></p> + +<p>Our stock of fresh meat was getting low +and we were anxious to shoot something; but +in the early hours of the afternoon we saw no +game. Small parties of horned larks ran along +the ground ahead of the wagon, twittering +plaintively as they rose, and occasional flocks +of longspurs flew hither and thither; but of +larger life we saw nothing, save occasional +bands of range horses. The drought had been +very severe and we were far from the river, so +that we saw no horned stock. Horses can +travel much further to water than cattle, and, +when the springs dry up, they stay much +further out on the prairie.</p> + +<p>At last we did see a band of four antelope, +lying in the middle of a wide plain, but they +saw us before we saw them, and the ground +was so barren of cover that it was impossible +to get near them. Moreover, they were very +shy and ran almost as soon as we got our eyes +on them. For an hour or two after this we +jogged along without seeing anything, while +the gray clouds piled up in the west and the +afternoon began to darken; then, just after +passing Saddle Butte, we struck a rough prairie +road, which we knew led to the P. K. ranch—a +road very faint in places, while in others<a name="Page_285" id="Page_285"></a> +the wheels had sunk deep in the ground and +made long, parallel ruts.</p> + +<p>Almost immediately after striking this road, +on topping a small rise, we discovered a young +prongbuck standing off a couple of hundred +yards to one side, gazing at the wagon with +that absorbed curiosity which in this game so +often conquers its extreme wariness and timidity, +to a certain extent offsetting the advantage +conferred upon it by its marvelous vision. +The little antelope stood broadside, too, gazing +at us out of its great bulging eyes, the +sharply contrasted browns and whites of its +coat showing plainly. Lambert and I leaped +off our horses immediately, and I knelt and +pulled the trigger; but the cartridge snapped, +and the little buck, wheeling around, cantered +off, the white hairs on its rump all erect, as +is always the case with the pronghorn when +under the influence of fear or excitement. My +companion took a hasty, running shot, with no +more effect than changing the canter into a +breakneck gallop; and, though we opened on +it as it ran, it went unharmed over the crest of +rising ground in front. We ran after it as +hard as we could pelt up the hill, into a slight +valley, and then up another rise, and again got<a name="Page_286" id="Page_286"></a> +a glimpse of it standing, but this time further +off than before; and again our shots went wild.</p> + +<p>However, the antelope changed its racing +gallop to a canter while still in sight, going +slower and slower, and, what was rather curious, +it did not seem much frightened. We +were naturally a good deal chagrined at our +shooting and wished to retrieve ourselves, if +possible; so we ran back to the wagon, got our +horses and rode after the buck. He had continued +his flight in a straight line, gradually +slackening his pace, and a mile's brisk gallop +enabled us to catch a glimpse of him, far +ahead and merely walking. The wind was +bad, and we decided to sweep off and try to +circle round ahead of him. Accordingly, we +dropped back, turned into a slight hollow to +the right, and galloped hard until we came to +the foot of a series of low buttes, when we +turned more to the left; and, when we judged +that we were about across the antelope's line +of march, leaped from our horses, threw the +reins over their heads, and left them standing, +while we stole up the nearest rise; and, when +close to the top, took off our caps and pushed +ourselves forward, flat on our faces, to peep +over. We had judged the distance well, for<a name="Page_287" id="Page_287"></a> +we saw the antelope at once, now stopping to +graze. Drawing back, we ran along some little +distance nearer, then drew up over the +same rise. He was only about 125 yards off, +and this time there was no excuse for my failing +to get him; but fail I did, and away the +buck raced again, with both of us shooting. +My first two shots were misses, but I kept correcting +my aim and holding further in front of +the flying beast. My last shot was taken just +as the antelope reached the edge of the broken +country, in which he would have been safe; +and almost as I pulled the trigger I had the +satisfaction of seeing him pitch forward and, +after turning a complete somersault, lie motionless. +I had broken his neck. He had +cost us a good many cartridges, and, though +my last shot was well aimed, there was doubtless +considerable chance in my hitting him, +while there was no excuse at all for at least +one of my previous misses. Nevertheless, all +old hunters know that there is no other kind +of shooting in which so many cartridges are +expended for every head of game bagged.</p> + +<p>As we knelt down to butcher the antelope, +the clouds broke and the rain fell. Hastily we +took off the saddle and hams, and, packing<a name="Page_288" id="Page_288"></a> +them behind us on our horses, loped to the +wagon in the teeth of the cold storm. When +we overtook it, after some sharp riding, we +threw in the meat, and not very much later, +when the day was growing dusky, caught sight +of the group of low ranch buildings toward +which we had been headed. We were received +with warm hospitality, as one always is in a +ranch country. We dried our steaming clothes +inside the warm ranch house and had a good +supper, and that night we rolled up in our +blankets and tarpaulins, and slept soundly in +the lee of a big haystack. The ranch house +stood in the winding bottom of a creek; the +flanking hills were covered with stunted cedar, +while dwarf cottonwood and box elder grew +by the pools in the half-dried creek bed.</p> + +<p>Next morning we had risen by dawn. The +storm was over, and it was clear and cold. Before +sunrise we had started. We were only +some thirty miles from my ranch, and I directed +the Sheriff how to go there, by striking east +until he came to the main divide, and then following +that down till he got past a certain big +plateau, when a turn to the right down any of +the coulees would bring him into the river +bottom near the ranch house. We wished our<a name="Page_289" id="Page_289"></a>selves +to ride off to one side and try to pick up +another antelope. However, the Sheriff took +the wrong turn after getting to the divide, and +struck the river bottom some fifteen miles out +of his way, so that we reached the ranch a +good many hours before he did.</p> + +<p>When we left the wagon we galloped straight +across country, looking out from the divide +across the great rolling landscape, every feature +standing clear through the frosty air. +Hour after hour we galloped on and on over +the grassy seas in the glorious morning. Once +we stopped, and I held the horses while Lambert +stalked and shot a fine prongbuck; then +we tied his head and hams to our saddles and +again pressed forward along the divide. We +had hoped to get lunch at a spring that I +knew of some twelve miles from my ranch, +but when we reached it we found it dry and +went on without halting. Early in the afternoon +we came out on the broad, tree-clad bottom +on which the ranch house stands, and, +threading our way along the cattle trails, soon +drew up in front of the gray, empty buildings.</p> + +<p>Just as we were leaving the hunting grounds +on this trip, after having killed all the game +we felt we had a right to kill, we encountered<a name="Page_290" id="Page_290"></a> +bands of Sioux Indians from the Standing +Rock and Cheyenne River reservations coming +in to hunt, and I at once felt that the +chances for much future sport in that particular +district were small. Indians are not +good shots, but they hunt in great numbers, +killing everything, does, fawns and bucks alike, +and they follow the wounded animals with the +utmost perseverance, so that they cause great +destruction to game.</p> + +<p>Accordingly, in 1894, when I started for +these same grounds, it was with some misgivings; +but I had time only to make a few +days' hunt, and I knew of no other accessible +grounds where prongbuck were plentiful. My +foreman was with me, and we took the ranch +wagon also, driven by a cowboy who had just +come up over the trail with cattle from Colorado. +On reaching our happy hunting grounds +of the previous season, I found my fears sadly +verified; and one unforeseen circumstance also +told against me. Not only had the Indians +made a great killing of antelope the season +before, but in the spring one or two sheep +men had moved into the country. We found +that the big flocks had been moving from one +spring pool to another, eating the pasturage<a name="Page_291" id="Page_291"></a> +bare, while the shepherds whom we met—wild-looking +men on rough horses, each accompanied +by a pair of furtive sheep dogs—had +taken every opportunity to get a shot at antelope, +so as to provide themselves with fresh +meat. Two days of fruitless hunting in this +sheep-ridden region was sufficient to show that +the antelope were too scarce and shy to give +us hope for sport, and we shifted quarters, a +long day's journey, to the head of another +creek; and we had to go to yet another before +we found much game. As so often happens on +such a trip, when we started to have bad luck +we had plenty. One night two of the three saddle +horses stampeded and went back straight as +the crow flies to their home range, so that we +did not get them until on our return from the +trip. On another occasion the team succeeded +in breaking the wagon pole; and, as there was +an entire absence of wood where we were at +the time, we had to make a splice for it with +the two tent poles and the picket ropes. +Nevertheless it was very enjoyable out on +the great grassy plains. Although we had +a tent with us, I always slept in the open in +my buffalo bag, with the tarpaulin to pull over +me if it rained. On each night before going<a name="Page_292" id="Page_292"></a> +to sleep, I lay for many minutes gazing at the +extraordinary multitude of stars above, or +watching the rising of the red moon, which +was just at or past the full.</p> + +<p>We had plenty of fresh meat—prairie fowl +and young sage fowl for the first twenty-four +hours, and antelope venison afterward. We +camped by little pools, generally getting fair +water; and from the camps where there was +plenty of wood we took enough to build the +fires at those where there was none. The +nights were frosty, and the days cool and +pleasant, and from sunrise to sunset we were +off riding or walking among the low hills and +over the uplands, so that we slept well and ate +well, and felt the beat of hardy life in our veins.</p> + +<p>Much of the time we were on a high divide +between two creek systems, from which we +could see the great landmarks of all the +regions roundabout—Sentinel Butte, Square +Butte and Middle Butte, far to the north and +east of us. Nothing could be more lonely and +nothing more beautiful than the view at nightfall +across the prairies to these huge hill +masses, when the lengthening shadows had +at last merged into one and the faint glow of +the red sun filled the west. The rolling prai<a name="Page_293" id="Page_293"></a>rie, +sweeping in endless waves to the feet of +the great hills, grew purple as the evening +darkened, and the buttes loomed into vague, +mysterious beauty as their sharp outlines softened +in the twilight.</p> + +<p>Even when we got out of reach of the +sheep men we never found antelope very +plentiful, and they were shy, and the country +was flat, so that the stalking was extremely +difficult; yet I had pretty good sport. The +first animal I killed was a doe, shot for meat, +because I had twice failed to get bucks at +which I emptied my magazine at long range, +and we were all feeling hungry for venison. +After that I killed nothing but bucks. Of the +five antelope killed, one I got by a headlong +gallop to cut off his line of flight. As sometimes +happens with this queer, erratic animal, +when the buck saw that I was trying to cut off +his flight he simply raced ahead just as hard as +he knew how, and, as my pony was not fast, he +got to the little pass for which he was headed +200 yards ahead of me. I then jumped off, +and his curiosity made him commit the fatal +mistake of halting for a moment to look round +at me. He was standing end on, and offered +a very small mark at 200 yards; but I made a<a name="Page_294" id="Page_294"></a> +good line shot, and, though I held a trifle too +high, I hit him in the head, and down he came. +Another buck I shot from under the wagon +early one morning as he was passing just beyond +the picketed horses. The other three I +got after much maneuvering and long, tedious +stalks.</p> + +<p>In some of the stalks, after infinite labor, +and perhaps after crawling on all fours for an +hour, or pulling myself flat on my face among +some small sagebrush for ten or fifteen minutes, +the game took alarm and went off. Too +often, also, when I finally did get a shot, it +was under such circumstances that I missed. +Sometimes the game was too far; sometimes +it had taken alarm and was already in motion. +Once in the afternoon I had to spend so much +time waiting for the antelope to get into a favorable +place that, when I got up close, I found +the light already so bad that my front sight +glimmered indistinctly, and the bullet went +wild. Another time I met with one of those +misadventures which are especially irritating. +It was at midday, and I made out at a long distance +a band of antelope lying for their noon +rest in a slight hollow. A careful stalk brought +me up within fifty yards of them. I was crawl<a name="Page_295" id="Page_295"></a>ing +flat on my face, for the crest of the hillock +sloped so gently that this was the only way to +get near them. At last, peering through the +grass, I saw the head of a doe. In a moment +she saw me and jumped to her feet, and up +stood the whole band, including the buck. I +immediately tried to draw a bead on the latter, +and to my horror found that, lying flat as I +was, and leaning on my elbows. I could not +bring the rifle above the tall, shaking grass, +and was utterly unable to get a sight. In another +second away tore all the antelope. I +jumped to my feet, took a snap shot at the +buck as he raced round a low-cut bank and +missed, and then walked drearily home, chewing +the cud of my ill luck. Yet again in more +than one instance, after making a good stalk +upon a band seen at some distance, I found it +contained only does and fawns, and would not +shoot at them.</p> + +<p>Three times, however, the stalk was successful. +Twice I was out alone; the other time +my foreman was with me, and kept my horse +while I maneuvered hither and thither, and +finally succeeded in getting into range. In +both the first instances I got a standing shot, +but on this last occasion, when my foreman<a name="Page_296" id="Page_296"></a> +was with me, two of the watchful does which +were in the band saw me before I could get a +shot at the old buck. I was creeping up a low +washout, and, by ducking hastily down again +and running back and up a side coulee, I managed +to get within long range of the band as +they cantered off, not yet thoroughly alarmed. +The buck was behind, and I held just ahead of +him. He plunged to the shot, but went off +over the hill crest. When I had panted up to +the ridge, I found him dead just beyond.</p> + +<p>One of the antelope I killed while I was out +on foot at nightfall, a couple of miles from the +wagon; I left the shoulders and neck, carrying +in the rest of the carcass on my back. On the +other occasion I had my horse with me and +took in the whole antelope, packing it behind +the saddle, after it was dressed and the legs +cut off below the knees. In packing an antelope +or deer behind the saddle, I always cut +slashes through the sinews of the legs just +above the joints; then I put the buck behind +the saddle, run the picket rope from the horn +of the saddle, under the belly of the horse, +through the slashes in the legs on the other +side, bring the end back, swaying well down on +it, and fasten it to the horn; then I repeat the<a name="Page_297" id="Page_297"></a> +same feat for the other side. Packed in this +way, the carcass always rides perfectly steady, +and can not, by any possibility, shake loose. +Of course, a horse has to have some little +training before it will submit to being packed.</p> + +<p>The above experiences are just about those +which befall the average ranchman when he is +hunting antelope. To illustrate how much +less apt he is to spend as many shots while +after other game, I may mention the last +mountain sheep and last deer I killed, each +of which cost me but a single cartridge.</p> + +<p>The bighorn was killed in the fall of 1894, +while I was camped on the Little Missouri, +some ten miles below my ranch. The bottoms +were broad and grassy, and were walled +in by rows of high, steep bluffs, with back of +them a mass of broken country, in many places +almost impassable for horses. The wagon was +drawn up on the edge of the fringe of tall cottonwoods +which stretched along the brink of +the shrunken river. The weather had grown +cold, and at night the frost gathered thickly +on our sleeping bags. Great flocks of sandhill +cranes passed overhead from time to time, the +air resounding with their strange, musical, +guttural clangor.<a name="Page_298" id="Page_298"></a></p> + +<p>For several days we had hunted perseveringly, +but without success, through the broken +country. We had come across tracks of mountain +sheep, but not the animals themselves, and +the few blacktail which we had seen had seen +us first and escaped before we could get within +shot. The only thing killed had been a whitetail +fawn, which Lambert had knocked over by +a very pretty shot as we were riding through a +long, heavily-timbered bottom. Four men in +stalwart health and taking much outdoor exercise +have large appetites, and the flesh of the +whitetail was almost gone.</p> + +<p>One evening Lambert and I hunted nearly +to the head of one of the creeks which opened +close to our camp, and, in turning to descend +what we thought was one of the side coulees +leading into it, we contrived to get over the +divide into the coulees of an entirely different +creek system, and did not discover our error +until it was too late to remedy it. We struck +the river about nightfall, and were not quite +sure where, and had six miles' tramp in the +dark along the sandy river bed and through +the dense timber bottoms, wading the streams +a dozen times before we finally struck camp, +tired and hungry, and able to appreciate to the<a name="Page_299" id="Page_299"></a> +full the stew of hot venison and potatoes, and +afterward the comfort of our buffalo and caribou +hide sleeping bags. The next morning +the Sheriff's remark of "Look alive, you fellows, +if you want any breakfast," awoke the +other members of the party shortly after dawn. +It was bitterly cold as we scrambled out of +our bedding, and, after a hasty wash, huddled +around the fire, where the venison was sizzling +and the coffee-pot boiling, while the bread was +kept warm in the Dutch oven. About a third +of a mile away to the west the bluffs, which +rose abruptly from the river bottom, were +crowned by a high plateau, where the grass +was so good that over night the horses had +been led up and picketed on it, and the man +who had led them up had stated the previous +evening that he had seen what he took to +be fresh footprints of a mountain sheep crossing +the surface of a bluff fronting our camp. +The footprints apparently showed that the animal +had been there since the camp had been +pitched. The face of the cliff on this side +was very sheer, the path by which the horses +scrambled to the top being around a shoulder +and out of sight of camp.</p> + +<p>While sitting close up around the fire finish<a name="Page_300" id="Page_300"></a>ing +breakfast, and just as the first level sunbeams +struck the top of the plateau, we saw on +this cliff crest something moving, and at first +supposed it to be one of the horses which had +broken loose from its picket pin. Soon the +thing, whatever it was, raised its head, and we +were all on our feet in a moment, exclaiming +that it was a deer or a sheep. It was feeding +in plain sight of us only about a third of a +mile distant, and the horses, as I afterward +found, were but a few rods beyond it on the +plateau. The instant I realized that it was +game of some kind I seized my rifle, buckled +on my cartridge belt, and slunk off toward the +river bed. As soon as I was under the protection +of the line of cottonwoods, I trotted +briskly toward the cliff, and when I got to +where it impinged on the river I ran a little +to the left, and, selecting what I deemed to be +a favorable place, began to make the ascent. +The animal was on the grassy bench, some +eight or ten feet below the crest, when I last +saw it; but it was evidently moving hither and +thither, sometimes on this bench and sometimes +on the crest itself, cropping the short +grass and browsing on the young shrubs. +The cliff was divided by several shoulders<a name="Page_301" id="Page_301"></a> +or ridges, there being hollows like vertical +gullies between them, and up one of these I +scrambled, using the utmost caution not to dislodge +earth or stones. Finally I reached the +bench just below the sky line, and then, turning +to the left, wriggled cautiously along it, hat +in hand. The cliff was so steep and bulged +so in the middle, and, moreover, the shoulders +or projecting ridges in the surface spoken of +above were so pronounced, that I knew it was +out of the question for the animal to have seen +me, but I was afraid it might have heard me. +The air was absolutely still, and so I had no +fear of its sharp nose. Twice in succession I +peered with the utmost caution over shoulders +of the cliff, merely to see nothing beyond save +another shoulder some forty or fifty yards distant. +Then I crept up to the edge and looked +over the level plateau. Nothing was in sight +excepting the horses, and these were close up +to me, and, of course, they all raised their +heads to look. I nervously turned half round, +sure that if the animal, whatever it was, was +in sight, it would promptly take the alarm. +However, by good luck, it appeared that at +this time it was below the crest on the terrace +or bench already mentioned, and, on creeping<a name="Page_302" id="Page_302"></a> +to the next shoulder, I at last saw it—a yearling +mountain sheep—walking slowly away +from me, and evidently utterly unsuspicious of +any danger. I straightened up, bringing my +rifle to my shoulder, and as it wheeled I fired, +and the sheep made two or three blind jumps +in my direction. So close was I to the camp, +and so still was the cold morning, that I distinctly +heard one of the three men, who had +remained clustered about the fire eagerly +watching my movements, call, "By George, +he's missed; I saw the bullet strike the cliff." I +had fired behind the shoulders, and the bullet, +of course going through, had buried itself in +the bluff beyond. The wound was almost instantaneously +fatal, and the sheep, after striving +in vain to keep its balance, fell heels over +head down a crevice, where it jammed. I descended, +released the carcass and pitched it on +ahead of me, only to have it jam again near +the foot of the cliff. Before I got it loose +I was joined by my three companions, who +had been running headlong toward me through +the brush ever since the time they had seen +the animal fall.</p> + +<p>I never obtained another sheep under circumstances +which seemed to me quite so re<a name="Page_303" id="Page_303"></a>markable +as these; for sheep are, on the +whole, the wariest of game. Nevertheless, +with all game there is an immense amount +of chance in the chase, and it is perhaps not +wholly uncharacteristic of a hunter's luck that, +after having hunted faithfully in vain and with +much hard labor for several days through a +good sheep country, we should at last have obtained +one within sight and earshot of camp. +Incidentally I may mention that I have never +tasted better mutton, or meat of any kind, than +that furnished by this tender yearling.</p> + +<p>In 1894, on the last day I spent at the +ranch, and with the last bullet I fired from my +rifle, I killed a fine whitetail buck. I left the +ranch house early in the afternoon on my +favorite pony, Muley, my foreman riding with +me. After going a couple of miles, by sheer +good luck we stumbled on three whitetail—a +buck, a doe and a fawn—in a long winding +coulee, with a belt of timber running down its +bottom. When we saw the deer, they were +trying to sneak off, and immediately my foreman +galloped toward one end of the coulee +and started to ride down through it, while I +ran Muley to the other end to intercept the +deer. They were, of course, quite likely to<a name="Page_304" id="Page_304"></a> +break off to one side, but this happened to be +one of the occasions when everything went +right. When I reached the spot from which I +covered the exits from the timber, I leaped off, +and immediately afterward heard a shout from +my foreman that told me the deer were on +foot. Muley is a pet horse, and he enjoys immensely +the gallop after game; but his nerves +invariably fail him at the shot. He stood +snorting beside me, and finally, as the deer +came in sight, away he tore—only to go about +200 yards, however, and stand and watch us +with his ears pricked forward until, when I +needed him, I went for him. At the moment, +however, I paid no heed to Muley, for a cracking +in the brush told me the game was close, +and in another moment I caught the shadowy +outlines of the doe and the fawn as they +scudded through the timber. By good luck, +the buck, evidently flurried, came right on the +edge of the woods next to me, and, as he +passed, running like a quarter horse, I held +well ahead of him and pulled the trigger. +The bullet broke his neck and down he went—a +fine fellow with a handsome ten-point head, +and fat as a prize sheep; for it was just before +the rut. Then we rode home, and I sat in a<a name="Page_305" id="Page_305"></a> +rocking-chair on the ranch house veranda, +looking across the river at the strangely +shaped buttes and the groves of shimmering +cottonwoods until the sun went down +and the frosty air bade me go in.</p> + +<hr style="visibility: hidden; margin: .4em;"> + +<p>I wish that members of the Boone and +Crockett Club, and big game hunters generally, +would make a point of putting down all +their experiences with game, and with any +other markworthy beasts or birds, in the regions +where they hunt, which would be of +interest to students of natural history; noting +any changes of habits in the animals and +any causes that tend to make them decrease in +numbers, giving an idea of the times at which +the different larger beasts became extinct, and +the like. Around my ranch on the Little Missouri +there have been several curious changes +in the fauna. Thus, magpies have greatly decreased +in number, owing, I believe, mainly to +the wolf-hunters. Magpies often come around +carcasses and eat poisoned baits. I have seen +as many as seven lying dead around a bait. +They are much less plentiful than they formerly +were. In this last year, 1894, I saw one +large party; otherwise only two or three strag<a name="Page_306" id="Page_306"></a>glers. +This same year I was rather surprised +at meeting a porcupine, usually a beast of the +timber, at least twenty miles from trees. He +was grubbing after sagebrush roots on the +edge of a cut bank by a half-dried creek. I +was stalking an antelope at the time, and +stopped to watch him for about five minutes. +He paid no heed to me, though I was within +three or four paces of him. Both the luciver, +or northern lynx, and the wolverine have been +found on the Little Missouri, near the Kildeer +Mountains, but I do not know of a specimen +of either that has been killed there for some +years past. The blackfooted ferret was always +rare, and is rare now. But few beaver +are left; they were very abundant in 1880, but +were speedily trapped out when the Indians +vanished and the Northern Pacific Railroad +was built. While this railroad was building, +the bears frequently caused much trouble by +industriously damming the culverts.</p> + +<p>With us the first animal to disappear was +the buffalo. In the old days, say from 1870 +to 1880, the buffalo were probably the most +abundant of all animals along the Little Missouri +in the region that I know, ranging, say, +from Pretty Buttes to the Killdeer Mountains.<a name="Page_307" id="Page_307"></a> +They were migratory, and at times almost all +of them might leave; but, on the whole, they +were the most abundant of the game animals. +In 1881 they were still almost as numerous as +ever. In 1883 all were killed but a few stragglers, +and the last of these stragglers that I +heard of as seen in our immediate neighborhood +was in 1885. The second game animal +in point of abundance was the blacktail. It +did not go out on the prairies, but in the +broken country adjoining the river it was far +more plentiful than any other kind of game. +It is greatly reduced in numbers now. Blacktail +were not much slaughtered until the buffalo +began to give out, say in 1882; but they +are probably now not a twentieth as plentiful +as they were in that year. Elk were plentiful +in 1880, though never anything like as abundant +as the buffalo and the blacktail. Only +straggling parties or individuals have been +seen since 1883. The last I shot near my +ranch was in 1886; but two or three have +been shot since, and a cow and calf were seen, +chased and almost roped by the riders on the +round-up in the fall of 1893. Doubtless one +or two still linger even yet in inaccessible +places. Whitetail were never as numerous<a name="Page_308" id="Page_308"></a> +as the other game, but they have held their +own well. Though they have decreased in +numbers, the decrease is by no means as great +as of the blacktail, and a good many can be +shot yet. A dozen years ago probably twenty +blacktail were killed for every one whitetail; +now the numbers are about equal. Antelope +were plentiful in the old days, though not +nearly so much so as buffalo and blacktail. +The hunters did not molest them while the +buffalo and elk lasted, and they then turned +their attention to the blacktails. For some +years after 1880 I think the pronghorn in +our neighborhood positively increased in numbers. +In 1886 I thought them more plentiful +than I had ever known them before. Since +then they have decreased, and in the last +two years the decrease has been quite rapid. +Mountain sheep were never very plentiful, and +during the last dozen years they have decreased +proportionately less than any other +game. Bears have decreased in numbers, and +have become very shy and difficult to get at; +they were never plentiful. Cougars were always +very scarce.</p> + +<p>There were two stages of hunting in our +country, as in almost all other countries simi<a name="Page_309" id="Page_309"></a>larly +situated. In 1880 the Northern Pacific +Railroad was built nearly to the edge of the +Bad Lands, and the danger of Indian war was +totally eliminated. A great inrush of hunters +followed. In 1881, 1882 and 1883 buffalo, elk +and blacktail were slaughtered in enormous +numbers, and a good many whitetail and +prongbuck were killed too. By 1884 the +game had been so thinned out that hide hunting +and meat hunting had ceased to pay. A +few professional hunters remained, but most +of them moved elsewhere, or were obliged to +go into other business. From that time the +hunting has chiefly been done by the ranchers +and occasional small grangers. In consequence, +for six or eight years the game about +held its own—the antelope, as I have said +above, at one time increasing; but the gradual +increase in the number of actual settlers is +now beginning to tell, and the game is becoming +slowly scarcer.</p> + +<p>The only wild animals that have increased +with us are the wolves. These are more plentiful +now than they were ten years ago. I +have never known them so numerous or so +daring in their assaults on stock as in 1894. +They not only kill colts and calves, but full-<a name="Page_310" id="Page_310"></a>grown +steers and horses. Quite a number +have been poisoned, but they are very wary +about taking baits. Quite a number also have +been roped by the men on the round-up who +have happened to run across them when gorged +from feeding at a carcass. Nevertheless, for +the last few years they have tended to increase +in numbers, though they are so wary, and nowadays +so strictly nocturnal in their habits, that +they are not often seen. This great increase, +following a great diminution, in the number of +wolves along the Little Missouri is very curious. +Twenty years ago, or thereabouts, wolves +were common, and they were then frequently +seen by every traveler and hunter. With the +advent of the wolfers, who poisoned them for +their skins, they disappeared, the disappearance +being only partly explicable, however, by +the poisoning. For a number of years they +continued scarce; but during the last four or +five they have again grown numerous, why I +cannot say. I wish that there were sufficient +data at hand to tell whether they have decreased +during these four or five years in +neighboring regions, say in central and eastern +Montana. Another curious feature of the +case is that the white wolves, which in the<a name="Page_311" id="Page_311"></a> +middle of the century were so common in this +region, are now very rare. I have heard of +but one, which was seen on the upper Cannon +Ball in 1892. One nearly black wolf was +killed in 1893.</p> + +<p>I suppose all hunters are continually asked +what rifles they use. Any good modern rifle +is good enough, and, after a certain degree of +excellence in the weapon is attained, the difference +between it and a somewhat better rifle +counts for comparatively little compared to +the difference in the skill, nerve and judgment +of the men using them. Moreover, there is +room for a great deal of individual variation of +opinion among experts as to rifles. I personally +prefer the Winchester. I used a .45-75 +until I broke it in a fall while goat-hunting, +and since then I have used a .45-90. For my +own use I consider either gun much preferable +to the .500 and .577 caliber double-barreled +Express for use with bears, buffalo, moose +and elk; yet my brother, for instance, always +preferred the double-barreled Express; Mr. +Theodore Van Dyke prefers the large bore, +and Mr. H. L. Stimson has had built a special +.577 Winchester, which he tells me he finds +excellent for grizzly bears. There is the same<a name="Page_312" id="Page_312"></a> +difference of opinion among men who hunt +game on other continents than ours. Thus, +Mr. Royal Carroll, in shooting rhinoceros, buffalo +and the like in South Africa, preferred +big, heavy English double-barrels; while Mr. +William Chanler, after trying these same double-barrels, +finally threw them aside in favor of +the .45-90 Winchester for use even against +such large and thick-hided beasts as rhinoceros. +There was an amusing incident connected +with Mr. Chanler's experiences. In a +letter to the London <i>Field</i> he happened to +mention that he preferred, for rhinoceros and +other large game, the .45-90 Winchester to the +double-barrel .577, so frequently produced by +the English gun makers. His letter was followed +by a perfect chorus of protests in the +shape of other letters by men who preferred +the double-barrel. These men had a perfect +right to their opinions, but the comic feature +of their letters was that, as a rule, they almost +seemed to think that Mr. Chanler's preference +of the .45-90 repeater showed some kind of +moral delinquency on his part; while the gun +maker, whose double-barrel Mr. Chanler had +discarded in favor of the Winchester, solemnly +produced tests to show that the bullets from<a name="Page_313" id="Page_313"></a> +his gun had more penetration than those from +the Winchester—which had no more to do +with the question than the production by the +Winchester people of targets to show that this +weapon possessed superior accuracy would +have had. Of course, the element of penetration +is only one of twenty entering into the +question; accuracy, handiness, rapidity of fire, +penetration, shock—all have to be considered. +Penetration is useless after a certain point has +been reached. Shock is useless if it is gained +at too great expense of penetration or accuracy. +Flatness of trajectory, though admirable, +is not as important as accuracy, and when +gained at a great expense of accuracy is simply +a disadvantage. All of these points are +admirably discussed in Mr. A. C. Gould's +"Modern American Rifles." In the right +place, a fair-sized bullet is as good as a very +big one; in the wrong place, the big one is +best; but the medium one will do more good +in the right place than the big one away from +its right place; and if it is more accurate it +is therefore preferable.</p> + +<p>Entirely apart from the merit of guns, there +is a considerable element of mere fashion in +them. For the last twenty years there has<a name="Page_314" id="Page_314"></a> +been much controversy between the advocates +of two styles of rifles—that is, the weapon with +a comparatively small bore and long, solid bullet +and a moderate charge of powder, and the +weapon of comparatively large bore with a +very heavy charge of powder and a short bullet, +often with a hollow end. The first is the +type of rifle that has always been used by +ninety-nine out of a hundred American hunters, +and indeed it is the only kind of rifle that +has ever been used to any extent in North +America; the second is the favorite weapon +of English sportsmen in those grandest of the +world's hunting grounds, India and South +Africa. When a single-shot rifle is not used, +the American usually takes a repeater, the +Englishman a double-barrel. Each type has +some good qualities that the other lacks, and +each has some defects. The personal equation +must always be taken into account in dealing +with either; excellent sportsmen of equal experience +give conflicting accounts of the performances +of the two types. Personally, I +think that the American type is nearer right. +In reading the last book of the great South +African hunter, Mr. Selous, I noticed with +much interest that in hunting elephants he<a name="Page_315" id="Page_315"></a> +and many of the Dutch elephant hunters had +abandoned the huge four and eight bores +championed by that doughty hunter, Sir Samuel +Baker, and had adopted precisely the type +of rifle which was in almost universal use +among the American buffalo hunters from 1870 +to 1883—that is, a rifle of .45 caliber, shooting +75 grains of powder and a bullet of 550 grains. +The favorite weapon of the American buffalo +hunter was a Sharps rifle of .45 caliber, shooting +about 550 grains of lead and using ordinarily +90 to 110 grains of powder—which, +however, was probably not as strong as the +powder used by Mr. Selous; in other words, +the types of gun were identically the same. I +have elsewhere stated that by actual experience +the big double-barreled English eight +and ten bores were found inferior to Sharps +rifle for bison-hunting on the Western plains. +I know nothing about elephant or rhinoceros +shooting; but my own experience with bison, +bear, moose and elk has long convinced me +that for them and for all similar animals (including, +I have no doubt, the lion and tiger) +the .45-90 type of repeater is, on the whole, the +best of the existing sporting rifles for my own +use. I have of late years loaded my car<a name="Page_316" id="Page_316"></a>tridges +not with the ordinary rifle powder, but +with 85 grains of Orange lightning, and have +used a bullet with 350 grains of lead, and then +have bored a small hole, taking out 15 or 20 +grains, in the point; but for heavy game I +think the solid bullet better. Judging from +what I have been told by some of my friends, +however, it seems not unlikely that the best +sporting rifle will ultimately prove to be the +very small caliber repeating rifle now found in +various forms in the military service of all +countries—a caliber of say .256 or .310, with +40 grains of powder and a 200-grain bullet. +These rifles possess marvelous accuracy and a +very flat trajectory. The speed of the bullet +causes it to mushroom if made of lead, and +gives it great penetration if hardened. Certain +of my friends have used rifles of this type +on bears, caribou and deer; they were said to +be far superior to the ordinary sporting rifle. +A repeating rifle of this type is really merely a +much more perfect form of the repeating rifles +that have for so long been favorites with +American hunters.</p> + +<p>But these are merely my personal opinions; +and, as I said before, among the many kinds of +excellent sporting rifles turned out by the best<a name="Page_317" id="Page_317"></a> +modern makers each has its special good +points and its special defects; and equally +good sportsmen, of equally wide experience, +will be found to vary widely in their judgment +of the relative worth of the different weapons. +Some people can do better with one rifle and +some with another, and in the long run it is +"the man behind the gun" that counts most.</p> + +<p class="signature2">Theodore Roosevelt.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_12" id="CHAPTER_12"></a>Wolf-Coursing</h2> + + +<p>While wolf-coursing is one of the most +thrilling and exciting sports to be enjoyed +in this country, it is less indulged in than +any other sport; this, too, in the face of the +fact that no country offers such excellent opportunities +for its practice. This is, no doubt, +due to the fact that it is a sport requiring +special preparation, a thorough knowledge of +both the game and country, and is very trying +on horse, rider and hound. Russia seems to +be the only country in which it has a foothold +and a permanent place in the hearts of its +sportsmen. In fact, with the Russians it +might be called a national pastime. However, +did it require in this country the same +outlay of money, time and preparation that it +does in Russia, I doubt very much its advancement +as a sport.</p> + +<p>There are really but two species of wolf in +this country—the timber wolf, generally called +the gray, and the prairie wolf or coyote. In<a name="Page_319" id="Page_319"></a> +different sections one hears of other varieties; +but these, I believe, are merely variations in +color and size, and are not specific differences. +While the habits of the coyote or prairie wolf +are well known to a majority of sportsmen, it +is not so with the timber or gray wolf, and a +few words in regard to the latter will not be +amiss.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="wolf"></a> + +<img src="images/i014.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="450"> +<p class="caption">THE WOLF THROWING <a name="tn_343"></a><!-- TN: "ZLOEEM" changed to "ZLOOEM"--> +ZLOOEM.</p></div> + +<p>My experience is that the wolves of Montana +and Wyoming are larger, stronger and +fiercer than those further south, though it is a +fact that the largest single wolf that I ever saw +killed was in Arizona. However, he was an +exception to the general run of them there. +If we may judge of the Russian or European +wolf from specimens to be seen in menageries +and zoölogical gardens, the American wolf, +while not so tall or leggy, is more compact, +with heavier head, coarser muzzle, smaller +ears, and perhaps a little heavier in weight—the +American wolf standing from 29 to 36 +inches at shoulder, and weighing from 85 to +125 pounds. I am also inclined to think that +the American wolf is, when run down to a +death-finish, a much more formidable foe for +dogs than his European relative. I reached +this conclusion only after hunting them with<a name="Page_320" id="Page_320"></a> +high-priced hounds, that had won medals in +Russia for wolf-killing, but which demonstrated +their utter inability even to hold American +wolves.</p> + +<p>Alive, the wolf is the enemy of man and +beast, and when dead he is almost useless. +His skin has but little commercial value, and +even dogs refuse to eat his flesh. I have +never known dogs to tear and mutilate a +wolf's carcass, and verily believe they would +starve to death before eating its flesh. And +yet I have read accounts of hunters feeding +their dogs upon wolf meat. I recall an effort +I made to cultivate in my dogs a taste for +wolf meat. I cut up a quantity of bear meat +into small strips and tossed them to the dogs, +which would gulp them down before they could +fall upon the ground. Substituting a piece of +wolf meat was of no avail; they detected it +instantly, and those which were fooled into +swallowing it immediately lost interest in the +proceedings and walked away.</p> + +<p>The wolf is by nature cowardly, being deficient +in courage comparative to his strength +and great size, but he often becomes courageous +from necessity. When reduced to extremity +by hunger, he braves danger, and has<a name="Page_321" id="Page_321"></a> +been known in numbers to attack man, though +no such incident ever came under my personal +observation. I have had them dog my footsteps +throughout a long day's hunt, always +managing to remain just beyond gunshot distance; +and upon one occasion, when I had +shot a pheasant, one actually carried it off +in full view before I could reach it, and, notwithstanding +I fired several shots that must +have come uncomfortably close, he made off +with his dangerously earned meal.</p> + +<p>As a general thing, however, the wolf manifests +a desire to run, rather than fight, for life, +and when alone will frequently tuck his tail +between his legs, and run like a stricken cur +from a dog that he could easily crush out +of existence. They are great believers in the +maxim, "In union there is strength." The +female, while apparently more timid than the +male, seems to lose all sense of danger when +hemmed in and forced to a fight, and attacks +with intrepidity. I once shot a female at long +range, the bullet from my Winchester passing +through her hind quarters and breaking both +legs. When I got up to her, she was surrounded +by the ranch dogs—an odd assortment +of "mongrel puppy, whelp and hound, and cur<a name="Page_322" id="Page_322"></a> +of low degree"—furiously attacking first one, +then another of them as they circled around +her; and, though she was partially paralyzed, +dragging her hind quarters, she successfully +stood off the entire pack until another bullet +ended the struggle. When in whelp they +fight with great obstinacy, and defend themselves +with intrepidity, being seemingly insensible +to punishment. When captured young +they are susceptible of taming and domestication, +though they are never free from treachery. +Though I have heard it denied, I know it +to be a fact that the dog has been successfully +crossed upon the wolf. I saw any number +of the produce around the old Spotted Tail +agency. They closely resembled wolves, and +were hardly distinguishable from them in appearance, +though generally lacking the good +qualities of faithfulness and attachment possessed +by the dog.</p> + +<p>The amount of damage a wolf can do in +a horse or cattle country is almost beyond +belief. He slaughters indiscriminately, carrying +waste and destruction to any section he +honors with his presence. When a pack of +these nocturnal marauders come across an unprotected +flock of sheep, a sanguinary massacre<a name="Page_323" id="Page_323"></a> +occurs, and not until they have killed, torn or +mangled the entire flock will they return to +the mountains. Thus the wolves become a +scourge, and their depredations upon herds +of sheep and cattle cause no inconsiderable +loss to the rancher. They frequently plunder +for days and nights together. I am not prepared +to state whether it is owing to daintiness +of appetite or pure love of killing, but as it is a +fact that a single wolf has been known to kill +a hundred sheep in a night, it would seem that +this indiscriminate slaughter was more to satisfy +his malignity than his hunger. It is a prevalent +idea that the wolf will eat putrid meat. +This I have not found to be true. He seldom +if ever devours carcasses after they begin to +putrify, choosing to hunt for fresh spoils rather +than to return to that which he had half devoured, +before leaving it to the tender mercies +of the coyotes, who have an appetite less nice.</p> + +<p>The coyote is a good scavenger, following +in the footsteps of the wolf, and will pick +bones until they glisten like ivory. His +fondness for domestic fowl and his thieving +propensity often embolden him to enter farmyards +and even residences during the daytime; +yet he often seems contented to dine upon<a name="Page_324" id="Page_324"></a> +corrupt flesh, bones, hair, old boots and saddles, +and many remarkable gastronomic performances +are credited to him. I had occasion +to "sleep out" one night in the Powder River +country, and, after picketing my horse, I threw +my saddle upon the ground near the picket +pin, and, placing my cartridge belt beneath the +saddle—which I used as a pillow—I was soon +sound asleep. Imagine my surprise at daybreak—knowing +there was not a human being +within fifty miles of me—to find that my cartridge +belt was missing. After a short search +I found the cartridges some few hundred yards +away, and a few remnants of the belt. The +coyotes had actually stolen this from under +my head without disturbing me, devoured it +and licked all the grease from the cartridges. +I felt thankful that they had not devoured my +rawhide riata.</p> + +<p>Of all animals that I have hunted, I consider +the wolf the hardest to capture or kill. +There is only one way in which he can be successfully +coped with, and that is with a pack of +dogs trained to the purpose and thoroughly +understanding their business. Dogs, as a +rule, have sufficient combativeness to assail +any animal, and, as a general thing, two or<a name="Page_325" id="Page_325"></a> +three of them can easily kill another animal of +same size and weight; but the wolf, with his +wonderful vitality and tenacity of life, combined +with his thickness of skin, matted hair +and resistant muscles, is anything but an easy +victim for even six or eight times his number.</p> + +<p>I spent the winter of 1874-75 in a portion +of the Rocky Mountains uninhabited except +by our own party. Wolves were very plentiful, +and we determined to secure as many pelts +as possible. Owing to the rough nature of +the country and our inability to keep up with +the dogs on horseback, we tried poisoning, but +with only moderate success. While others +claim it is an easy matter to poison wolves, +we did not find it so. In a country where +game is plentiful, it is almost impossible to +poison them. We tried trapping them, with +like results. Always mistrustful and intensely +suspicious, they imagine everything unusual +they see is a trap laid to betray or capture +them, and with extreme sagacity avoid everything +strange and new. When caught, they +frequently gnaw off a foot or leg rather than +be taken. Our cabin was surrounded by a +stockade wall, over which we could throw such +portions of deer carcasses as we did not use,<a name="Page_326" id="Page_326"></a> +and at nightfall the wolves, attracted by the +smell of the meat, would assemble on the outside, +and we shot them from the portholes. +It required a death shot; for, if only wounded, +no matter how badly, they would manage to +get far enough away from the stockade to be +torn into shreds by the survivors before we +could drive them off. I have always found +the wolf a most difficult animal to shoot. Endowed +with wonderful powers of scent and +extremely cunning, it is almost impossible to +stalk them. Frequently, after a long stalk +after one, have I raised my head to find him +gone, his nose having warned him of my +approach.</p> + +<p>The successful chase of the wolf requires +a species of knowledge that can be acquired +only by experience. It also requires men, +horses and dogs trained and disciplined for +the purpose; and woe to the man, horse or +dog that undertakes it without such preparation. +The true sportsman is not a blood-thirsty +animal. The actual killing of an animal, +its mere death, is not sport. Therefore, +upon several occasions, I have declined to join +a general wolf round-up, where men form a +cordon, and, by beating the country, drive<a name="Page_327" id="Page_327"></a> +them to a common center and kill them indiscriminately. +I have always preferred hunting +them with hounds to any other method of +extermination. The enjoyment of sport increases +in proportion to the amount of danger +to man and beast engaged in it, and for this +reason coursing wolves has always held a peculiar +fascination for me. A number of years +spent in the far West afforded me ample opportunity +to indulge my tastes in this line of +sport, so my knowledge of wolf-hunting and +the habits of the wolf has been derived from +personal experience and from association with +famous hunters.</p> + +<p>The principal drawback to the pleasure of +wolf-coursing is the danger to a good horse +from bad footing, and the possible mutilation +and death of a favorite dog—death and destruction +of hounds being often attendant +upon the capture and death of a full-grown +wolf. I do not know that I can give a better +idea of the sport than by describing a day's +wolf-hunting I enjoyed in the early seventies +near Raw Hide Butte, in Wyoming.</p> + +<p>We had notified the cook, an odd character +who went by the name of Steamboat, to call +us by daybreak. As we sat up late talking<a name="Page_328" id="Page_328"></a> +about the anticipated pleasures of the morrow, +it seemed to me that I had hardly closed my +eyes when Steamboat's heavy cavalry boots +were heard beating a tattoo on the shack +door. I rolled out of my bunk, to find Maje +and Zach, my companions in the hunt, dressed +and pulling on their shaps. Hastily dressing, +I followed them out to the corral just as the +gray tints of earliest morning were gathering +in the sky. The horses had been corralled the +night before, and, with Steamboat standing in +the door, using anything but choice language +at our delay in coming to breakfast, we saddled +up. Having ridden my own horse, a +sturdy half-breed from Salt Lake, very hard +the day before in running down a wounded +antelope, I decided on a fresh mount; and, as +luck would have it, I selected one of the best +lookers in the band, only to find out later, to +my sorrow, that I had fallen upon the only +bucking horse in the lot. While we breakfasted +upon antelope steak, flapjacks and +strong coffee, Steamboat was harnessing a +couple of wiry cayuses to a buckboard, and, +as we came out, we found him with the strike +dogs chained to the seat behind him, impatient +to be off. The party consisted of Maje,<a name="Page_329" id="Page_329"></a> +a long-legged, slab-sided, six-foot Kentuckian, +mounted on a "States" horse; Zach, an out-and-out +typical cowboy, who had come up +from Texas on the trail, mounted on a pinto +that did not look as though he had been fed +since his arrival in the territory, but, as Zach +knowingly remarked, "No route was too long +or pace too hot for him"; Steamboat in the +buckboard, holding with a pair of slips Dan, +an English greyhound, and Scotty, a Scotch +deerhound; while the other dogs, consisting +of a pair of young greyhounds, a pair of +cross-bred grey and deerhounds, and Lead, an +old-time Southern foxhound, were making the +horses miserable by jumping first at their +heads, then at their heels, in their eagerness +to facilitate the start; and myself on the bucking +broncho.</p> + +<p>While crossing the creek a few hundred +yards above the ranch, I heard old Lead give +mouth, a short distance ahead, in a chaparral +rendered impenetrable by tangled undergrowth, +and which formed secure covert for +countless varmints. Knowing that he never +threw his tongue without cause, I dug my +spurs into my horse, with the intention of +joining him. But I reckoned without my host,<a name="Page_330" id="Page_330"></a> +and for the next few minutes all my energies +were devoted to sticking to my horse, +who then and there in the creek bed proceeded +to give an illustration of bucking that +would have put the wild West buckers to +shame. Lead had jumped a coyote that put +off with all the speed that deadly terror could +impart—all the dogs after him full tilt. It required +quite a display of energy upon the part +of Zach and his pinto to whip the dogs off; +and, had it not been for the fact that Dan and +Scotty—who had jerked Steamboat literally +out of the buckboard and raced off together +with the slips dangling about their heels—ran +into a bush, and the slips catching held them +fast, we would have been called upon to participate +in a coyote and not a wolf-hunt—as, +when once slipped, no human power could +have stopped these dogs until they had tested +the metal of Brer Coyote. By the time Zach +and the dogs returned, I had convinced my +broncho that I was not a tenderfoot, having +"been there before," and he was contented to +keep at least two feet upon the ground at the +same time.</p> + +<p>We rode probably five or six miles, carefully +scanning the trackless plains, without sighting<a name="Page_331" id="Page_331"></a> +a wolf, when Maje, who had ridden off a mile +to our right, was seen upon a butte wildly +waving his hat. We instinctively knew that +game was afoot, and, as he disappeared, we +commenced a wild stampede for the butte. +Steamboat, with slips and reins in one hand +and blacksnake whip in the other, came +thundering after us, lashing his team into a +wild, mad run—and how he managed to hold +himself and dogs on the bounding buckboard +was a mystery to me. Reaching the butte, we +espied Maje a mile away, riding for dear life. +It did not take long to decide, from the general +direction taken, that the wolf would shortly +return to us. Keeping well back out of sight, +we impatiently awaited his return, and, had +it not been for the pure malignity of my +broncho, the wolf would have doubled back +within a few hundred yards of us, and a close +race have resulted.</p> + +<p>I had taken the dogs from Steamboat, and, +with the release cord of the slips around my +wrist, sat in the saddle ready to sight and slip +the dogs. Becoming impatient under the restraint, +the dogs ran behind my horse, and, as +the strap of the slips got under his tail, he +again commenced bucking, and before I could<a name="Page_332" id="Page_332"></a> +control him we were in full view of the wolf, +which, upon sighting us, veered off to the left. +Although not over a half mile away, the dogs +failed to sight him. With a cheer to the loose +dogs, we pushed forward at top speed, the +cracking of the quirts upon our horses' flanks +being echoed in the rear by the incessant popping +of Steamboat's whip as he lashed the +panting cayuses to the top of their speed in +a vain effort to keep up with us.</p> + +<p>We joined Maje at the point where we had +last seen the wolf, which by this time had +disappeared. Going over a rise, we dropped +down into an arroyo, where the foxhound +again gave tongue, and started back on the +trail almost in the same direction in which +we had come. Thinking that for once he was +at fault, and back-tracking, I took the two dogs +in slips up the arroyo, while Maje, Zach and +the pack of dogs followed the foxhound, and +were soon out of sight and hearing. Circling +around for some distance and seeing no sign +of the wolf, I rode upon a high point, and, +searching the country carefully through my +glasses, I could see the party probably a mile +and a half away; and, from the manner in +which they were getting over the ground, I<a name="Page_333" id="Page_333"></a> +knew they had again sighted. A hard ride of +two miles, in which the dogs almost dragged +me from my horse in their eagerness, brought +me within sighting distance of the dogs—the +voice of the foxhound, which was in the rear, +floating back to me in strong and melodious +tones across the plains. Slipping Dan and +Scotty, they went from the slips like a pair +of bullets and soon left me far behind. Upon +rounding a point of rocks, I saw one of the +young dogs lying upon the ground. A hasty +glance showed me, from the violent manner in +which he strained to catch his breath, that he +had tackled the wolf and his windpipe was +injured. It afterward developed that he had +become separated from the pack, and, in cutting +across country, had imprudently taken +hold of the wolf, which, with one snap of his +powerful jaws, had utterly disabled him, and +then continued his flight. Like most wolves, +he seemed to be able to keep up the pace he +had set over all kinds of ground. It seemed +to him a matter of indifference whether the +way was up or down hill, and he evidently +sought the roughest and stoniest ground, following +ravines and coulees—this giving him +a great advantage over horses and hounds.<a name="Page_334" id="Page_334"></a> +My horse beginning to show signs of distress, +I realized that, if the chase was to be a +straightaway, I would see but little of it and +probably not be in at the death anyway; +so I again sought a high point that gave a +commanding view over a large area of country, +and determined to await developments. +Every once in a while, with the aid of my +glasses, I could see the pack, fairly well +bunched, straining every muscle, running as +though for life. I could catch occasional +glimpses of the wolf far in advance, as he +scurried through the sagebrush, showing little +power of strategy, but a determined obstinacy +to outfoot his relentless foes.</p> + +<p>Fortune again favored me. By degrees the +superior speed and stamina of the hounds +began to tell, though both seemed to be running +with undiminished speed. The wolf, finding +that, with all his speed and cunning, they +were slowly but surely overtaking him, circled +in my direction, and I was soon again an important +factor in the hunt, urging the dogs +with shouts of encouragement. I was now +near enough to note that one of the young +greyhounds, which had evidently been running +cunning by lying back and cutting across, was<a name="Page_335" id="Page_335"></a> +far in advance of the pack—not over 100 yards +behind the wolf, and gaining rapidly. Striking +a rise in the ground, he overtook the wolf and +seized him by the shoulder. The wolf seemed +to drag him several yards before he reached +around, and with his powerful, punishing jaws +gave him a slash that laid his skull bare and +rolled him over on the prairie.</p> + +<p>Slight as this interruption was, it encouraged +Dan to greater effort, and the next minute he +had distanced the pack, nailed the wolf by the +jowl, and over they went, wolf on top. Scotty +was but a few paces behind, and, taking a hind +hold, tried to stretch him. With a mighty +effort the wolf tore himself loose from both +and started to run again. He had not gone +thirty paces before Scotty bowled him over +again. Rising, he sullenly faced his foes, who, +with wholesome respect for his glistening ivories, +seemed to hesitate while recovering their +wind, as they were sadly blown after their long +run, the day being an intensely hot one. At +this point I rode up. The wolf lay closely +hugging the ground, his swollen tongue protruding +from foam-flecked chops, and with +keen and wary eye he watched the maddened +pack circling about looking for a vulnerable<a name="Page_336" id="Page_336"></a> +point. Varied experience in the art of self-defense +had taught him skill and quickness, +and as each dog essayed to assail him he found +a threatening array of teeth. Throwing myself +from the saddle, I cheered them on. Dan +and Scotty hesitated no longer, but rushed +savagely at him, one on either side, and the +whole pack, including the one recently scalped, +regardless of his gaping wound, followed them.</p> + +<p>For a few minutes the pile resembled a +struggling mass of dogs, and the air seemed +filled with flying hair, fur and foam, and the +snapping of teeth was like castanets. At first +the wolf seemed only intent upon shaking off +his foes and escaping, but the punishment he +was receiving could not long be borne; and +from then on to the last gasp, with eyes flaming +with rage, every power seemingly put +forth, he fought like a demon possessed. As +he tossed the dogs about, seemingly breaking +their hold at will, I was singularly impressed +with his enormous size and strength, his shaggy +appearance and his generally savage look, and +suggested to Maje and Zach, who had come +up in the meantime, that we take a hand in +the fray, as I doubted the ability of the dogs +to finish him without serious loss. <a name="tn_361"></a><!-- TN: Period changed to a comma after "However"-->However,<a name="Page_337" id="Page_337"></a> +we decided to give them the opportunity, and +ere long they had him <i>hors de combat</i>, stretched +upon the ground, his body crimson with his +own life's blood, in the last throes of death. +He was one of the largest specimens I had +ever seen, weighing not less than 120 pounds, +the green pelt weighing twenty-four. His +carcass, when stood up alongside of Scotty, +seemed several inches taller, and I afterward +measured the latter and found him to be thirty-one +inches.</p> + +<p>All of the dogs received more or less punishment; +none escaped scathless, but really +much less damage was done than I expected. +This was owing to the fact that Dan and +Scotty, two of the staunchest seizers I ever +saw, engaged him constantly in front, while +the other dogs literally disemboweled him. +Scotty had a bad cut on the side of the neck, +requiring several stitches to close, and the +muscles of his shoulder were laid bare; while +Dan's most serious hurt was a cut from dome +of skull to corner of eye, from which he never +entirely recovered, as he ever afterward had a +weeping eye. One of the cross-breeds, whose +pads were not well indurated, suffered from +lacerated feet, and one of his stoppers was torn<a name="Page_338" id="Page_338"></a> +almost off, necessitating removal. A wolf's +bite is both cruel and dangerous, and wounds +on dogs are obstinate and very hard to heal—more +so than those of any other animal. +While skinning the wolf, our horses were +standing with lowered heads, heaving flanks, +shaking and trembling limbs; my horse, much +to my satisfaction, evidently without a good +buck left in him.</p> + +<p>After a full hour's rest for man and beast, +we started back to the ranch. Taking Steamboat +with the buckboard, I went back to the +point of rocks with the intention of taking up +the injured dog. Upon arrival there no trace +of him could be found; he had mysteriously +disappeared. Thinking that he had recovered +sufficiently to make his way back to the ranch, +we increased our speed and soon joined the +others, who had been heading directly for +home. The ride home was devoid of incident, +the monotony being occasionally broken by +our frantic efforts to restrain the dogs from +chasing innumerable jack rabbits that bounded +away on three legs, in their most tantalizing +way, inviting us to a chase. We also got +within rifle shot of a band of antelope, seeming +quite at ease, feeding and gamboling<a name="Page_339" id="Page_339"></a> +sportively with each other, until a pistol shot +at long range sent them skimming gracefully +over the plains, finally vanishing like a flying +shadow in the distance. While crossing the +creek below, and within sight of the ranch, we +again heard Lead give tongue in the chaparral +above the ranch, and in a few minutes he +had a coyote busy, doubtless the same one we +had disturbed in taking a constitutional in the +morning. The dogs, now a sorry looking set, +had been jogging lazily along behind us, but +in a moment were all life and action. Their +spirits were contagious, and, though we had +positively agreed under no circumstances to +run a coyote, we very soon found ourselves +flying after the vanishing pack in full pursuit. +A pretty race ensued. When first dislodged +the coyote appeared lame to such an extent +that I thought his leg broken; but after warming +up this affection entirely disappeared, and +the pace was a hot one for the first mile. The +dogs ran well together, and were gradually +lessening the gap between them and their +wily foe, who, realizing this, displayed tact in +selecting the very worst possible ground for +footing, and soon regained his lost vantage. +It began to look as though the coyote would<a name="Page_340" id="Page_340"></a> +again give us the slip, when one of the young +dogs, that Zach in his excitement had ridden +over several minutes before and presumably +killed, was seen to dash out from a draw and +bowl over the coyote. His hold was not a +good one, but he succeeded in turning the +coyote, who then made a straight line for a +bunch of cattle grazing near, becoming temporarily +unsighted among the cattle. The dogs +again fell behind, and when again sighted the +coyote was making a bee line for the ranch. +By the time the creek was reached, he was in +evident distress and sorely pressed. With a +final effort he dashed through the creek up the +opposite bank, and, as he dodged into the +open corral gate, one of the greyhounds +flicked the hair from his hind quarters. It +was his last effort. By the time we reached +the corral, he was being literally pulled to +pieces. We could not see that he made additional +wounds upon any of the dogs. In +the excitement of the finish of the chase I +had lost Maje, and it was only after the death +in the corral that I missed him. Going to the +adobe wall, I peered over and saw him some +distance away standing beside his horse. +Upon going back to him, we found that his<a name="Page_341" id="Page_341"></a> +horse had stepped into a prairie dog hole, +throwing him violently, and, turning a somersault, +had landed upon him. The only damage +to Maje was, he had been converted +for the time being into a cactus pincushion; +but his "States" horse had broken his fore leg +at the pastern joint and had to be shot.</p> + +<p>After the long run of the morning, this race +afforded us ample scope for testing both the +speed and staying qualities of the dogs as well +as of our horses.</p> + +<p>We were disappointed in not finding the injured +dog at the ranch. In fact, he was never +afterward heard of, and doubtless crawled away +among the rocks and died alone. After sewing +up Scotty's wounds, dressing the minor +cuts of the other dogs and removing the cactus +and prickly pear points from their feet (the +latter not a small job by any means), we were +soon doing full justice to Steamboat's satisfying +if not appetizing meal.</p> + +<p>In contrast to our simple preparations and +equipment for this, an average wolf-hunt in +that country, wolf-hunts in Russia, as described +to me by my friend, St. Allen, of St. Petersburg, +are certainly grand affairs; but when +the two methods of hunting are compared, I<a name="Page_342" id="Page_342"></a> +cannot but believe that the balance of sport is +in our favor.</p> + +<p>I have frequently been asked what breed of +dogs I consider best for wolf-hunting. Having +tried nearly all kinds, experience and observation +justify me in asserting that the greyhound +is undoubtedly the best. In the first +place, there is no question of their ability to +catch wolves, and, when properly bred and +reared, their courage is undoubted. It is a +general supposition that the greyhound is devoid +of the power of scent. This is a mistake, +as can be attested by anyone who has ever +hunted them generally in the West upon large +game, especially wolves, which give a stronger +scent than any other animal. Of course, this +power is not as well developed in the greyhound +as in other breeds, because the uses to +which he is put do not require scent, and, +under the law of evolution, it has deteriorated +as a natural consequence. Unrivaled in speed +and endurance, these qualities have been developed +and bred for, while the olfactory +organs have been necessarily neglected by +restricting the work of the dogs to sight hunting. +Experience has taught me that they are +the only breed of dogs that, without special<a name="Page_343" id="Page_343"></a> +training or preparation, will take hold and stay +in the fight with the first wolf they encounter +until they have killed him. I have heard it +said that this was because they did not have +sense enough to avoid a wolf. At all events, +it is a fact that they will unhesitatingly take +hold of a wolf when dogs older, stronger and +better adapted to fighting will refuse to do so. +I have found that, while all dogs will hunt or +run a fox spontaneously, with seeming pleasure, +they have a natural repugnance and great +aversion to the proverbially offensive odor peculiar +to the wolf. I once hunted a pack of +high-bred foxhounds, noted for their courage. +They had not only caught and killed scores of +red foxes, but had also been used in running +down and killing sheep-killing dogs. Though +they had never seen a wolf, I did not doubt +for an instant that they would kill one. While +they trailed and ran him true, pulling him +down in a few miles, they utterly refused to +break him up when caught. The following +extract, from an article I wrote some years ago +on the "Greyhound," for the "American Book +of the Dog," expresses my views of the courage +and adaptability of the greyhound for +wolf-hunting:<a name="Page_344" id="Page_344"></a></p> + +<p>"A general impression prevails that the +greyhound is a timid animal, lacking heart +and courage. This may be true of some few +strains of the breed, but, could the reader have +ridden several courses with me at meetings of +the American Coursing Club which I have +judged, and have seen greyhounds, as I have +seen them, run until their hind legs refused to +propel them further, and then crawl on their +breasts after a thoroughly used up jack rabbit +but a few feet in advance, the singing and +whistling in their throats plainly heard at fifty +yards, literally in the last gasp of death, trying +to catch their prey, he or she would agree with +me in crediting them with both the qualities +mentioned."</p> + +<p>In hunting the antelope, it is not an uncommon +thing to see a greyhound, especially in +hot weather, continue the chase until he dies +before his master reaches him. An uninjured +antelope is capable of giving any greyhound +all the work he can stand, and unless the latter +is in prime condition his chances are poor indeed +to throttle. A peculiar feature of the +greyhound is that he always attacks large +game in the throat, head or fore part of the +body. I have even seen them leave the line<a name="Page_345" id="Page_345"></a> +of the jack rabbit to get at his throat. Old +"California Joe," at one time chief of scouts +with Gen. Custer, in 1875 owned a grand +specimen of the greyhound called Kentuck, +presented to him by Gen. Custer. I saw this +dog, in the Big Horn country, seize and throw +a yearling bull buffalo, which then dragged the +dog on his back over rough stones, trampled +and pawed him until his ears were split, two +ribs broken, and neck and fore shoulders +frightfully cut and lacerated, yet he never released +his hold until a Sharps rifle bullet +through the heart of the buffalo ended the +unequal struggle. Talk about a lack of courage! +I have seen many a greyhound single-handed +and alone overhaul and tackle a coyote, +and in a pack have seen them close in +and take hold of a big gray timber wolf or +a mountain lion and stay throughout the fight, +coming out bleeding and quivering, with hardly +a whole skin among them. In point of +speed, courage, fortitude, endurance and fine, +almost human judgment, no grander animal +lives than the greyhound. He knows no fear; +he turns from no game animal on which he is +sighted, no matter how large or how ferocious. +He pursues with the speed of the wind, seizes<a name="Page_346" id="Page_346"></a> +the instant he comes up with the game, and +stays in the fight until either he or the quarry +is dead. Of all dogs these are the highest in +ambition and courage, and, when sufficiently +understood, they are capable of great attachment.</p> + +<p>In selecting dogs for wolf-killing, the most +essential qualities to be desired are courage, +strength and stamina to sustain continued exertion, +with plenty of force and dash. Training +is a matter requiring unlimited patience, +coupled with firmness and judgment, and a +large amount of love for a dog. It also requires +constant watchfulness of a dog's every +movement and mood to make a successful +wolf-courser of him. Many a good dog has +been ruined at the outset by not being fully +understood.</p> + +<p>They should receive their first practical +work when about one year old, provided they +are sufficiently developed to stand the hard +work necessary. They generally have mind +enough at this age to know what is expected +of them. It is, of course, better to hunt a +young dog first with older and experienced +dogs, which will take hold of any kind of game. +The larger and stronger the dog, the better;<a name="Page_347" id="Page_347"></a> +for it requires immense powers of endurance, +hardihood and strength to hold, much less +kill, a wolf. The latter are particularly strong +in the fore quarters and muscles of the +neck and jaw. As an evidence of their great +strength, I saw a wolf, while running at full +speed, seize the Siberian wolfhound Zlooem +by the shoulder and throw him bodily into the +air, landing him on his back several feet away, +and yet this wolf did not weigh as much as +the dog.</p> + +<p>Particular care should be taken to see that a +young dog gets started right in his practical +training. Encourage him with your presence; +do all you can to see that he is sighted +promptly; spare no expense or pains in getting +a good mount, and keep as close as possible +during the fighting; enliven him with +your voice, and encourage him to renewed +effort; for his ardor increases in proportion to +the encouragement and praise received. Ride +hard, to be in early at the death. His confidence +once gained, he will place implicit reliance +in your assistance; but, let him be +beaten off once or twice through lack of encouragement, +and he will soon lose his relish +for the sport and show a disposition to hang<a name="Page_348" id="Page_348"></a> +back; while he may seem to be doing his best, +a practiced eye will soon detect a want of +ardor and dash. A pack of hounds, with a +good strike dog and confidence in their owner, +will carry everything before them; by keeping +them in good heart they always expect success +to crown their efforts.</p> + +<p>If from any cause in the final struggle the +dogs are getting the worst of it, or the other +dogs refuse to assist the seizers, one must not +hesitate an instant about assisting them; this +requires perfect coolness, self-control and presence +of mind, so as not to injure the dog. To +attempt the use of the pistol or gun is too +dangerous. A well-directed blow with a good +strong hunting knife, delivered between the +shoulders, will generally break the spine, leaving +the wolf entirely at the mercy of the +hounds.</p> + +<p>I would advise no one to attempt the Russian +method of taping the jaws while the wolf +is held by the seizers. I had an experience of +this kind once. After a long chase, the wolf, +in his efforts to escape, leaped a wall, and, +in alighting upon the farther side, thrust his +head and neck through a natural loop formed +by a grapevine growing around a tree. Reach<a name="Page_349" id="Page_349"></a>ing +him as soon as the hounds, I fought them +off; but, although he was virtually as fast as if +in a vise, it required the united efforts of five +of us to bind his legs and tape his jaws, and +this was only accomplished after a severe +struggle of some minutes. I am sure I would +not have trusted any dog or dogs I ever hunted +to have held him during this operation.</p> + +<p>One should always be provided with a spool +of surgeon's silk and a needle, for these will +assuredly be called into use. Old Major, a +greyhound owned by Dr. Van Hummel and +myself, full of years and honors, is still alive. +He was a typical seizer and afraid of nothing +that wore hair. His entire body is seamed +with innumerable scars, and has been sewed +up so often that he resembles a veritable piece +of needlework. As an evidence of his speed, +strength and early training, I recollect that, +shortly after I had hunted him in the West, +I had him at my home in Kentucky. The +Doctor was on a visit to me, and we had taken +Major to the country with us while inspecting +stock farms. At Wyndom Place, where we +were admiring a handsome two-year-old Longfellow +colt, running loose in the field, the owner, +before we were aware of his intention, set<a name="Page_350" id="Page_350"></a> +Major after the colt "to show his speed and +style." We both instantly saw his error, but +it was too late—we could not call the dog off. +He soon overhauled the colt, and, springing at +his throat, down they went in a heap—the +colt, worth a thousand dollars, ruined for life.</p> + +<p>One of the most glaring instances of improper +training and handling of wolfhounds +that ever came under my observation was the +Colorado wolf-hunt that attracted so much attention +in the sporting press of this country, +England and Russia. Mr. Paul Hacke, an +enthusiastic fancier, of Pittsburg, Pa., while in +Russia attended a wolf-killing contest in which +the barzois contested with captive wolves. +He became so much enamored of the sport +that he purchased a number of trained barzois +and brought them to this country. They were +a handsome lot and attracted much attention +while being exhibited at the bench shows. I +was one of the official judges at the Chicago +Bench Show in 1892, and wolfhound classes +were assigned me. While I admired them +very much for their handsome, showy appearance, +I expressed grave doubts as to their +ability to catch and kill timber wolves, notwithstanding +I had read graphic accounts of<a name="Page_351" id="Page_351"></a> +their killing coyotes in thirty-five seconds. +This doubt was shared and expressed by +others present who had had practical experience +in wolf-hunting. This coming to the +ears of Mr. Hacke, who is always willing to +back his opinion with his money, he issued +a sweeping challenge offering to match a pair +of barzois against any pair of dogs in the +United States for a wolf-killing contest, for +$500 a side. His challenge was promptly +accepted by Mr. Geo. McDougall, of Butte +City, Montana.</p> + +<p>I was selected to judge the match, and in +the spring of 1892 we made up a congenial +carload and journeyed to Hardin, in the wilds +of Colorado, where our sleeper was sidetracked. +Arrangements were made at an +adjoining horse ranch, and every morning a +band of horses was promptly on hand at daylight. +On the night of our arrival at Hardin, +a fine saddle horse had been hamstrung in his +owner's stable by wolves. It was a pitiful +sight, and added zest to our determination +to exterminate as many as possible.</p> + +<p>We were awakened from our sound sleep +the first morning by the familiar sounds of +saddling, accompanied by the pawing and<a name="Page_352" id="Page_352"></a> +bucking of horses, swearing of men, and snarling +and growling of dogs. After a hasty +breakfast, eaten by lamplight, we were soon +mounted and in motion for the rendezvous. +We had hardly crossed the Platte River, near +which our camp was located, before the advance +guard announced a wolf in full flight. +A glance through my field-glasses convinced +me that it was an impudent coyote, and we +continued our search. We had probably ridden +an hour through sand and cactus before +one of the hunters had a wolf up and going.</p> + +<p>McDougall had selected Black Sam, a cross +between a deerhound and a greyhound, as his +first representative, and he was accordingly in +the slips with a magnificent-looking barzoi +representing Mr. Hacke. Porter, from Salt +Lake, the slipper and an old-time hunter, had +all he could do to hold them until the word to +slip was given. They went away from the +slips in great style, the barzoi getting a few +feet the best of it; but in the lead up to +the wolf the cross-breed made a go-by, and, +overtaking the flying wolf, unhesitatingly +seized and turned it. Before it could straighten +out for another run, the barzoi was upon it, +and unfortunately took a hind hold, which it<a name="Page_353" id="Page_353"></a> +easily broke. The cross-breed, without having +received a cut or even a pinch, lost all interest +in the proceedings, and stood around looking +on as unconcerned as though there was not +a wolf within a hundred miles; and, though +the wolf assumed a combative attitude, at bay, +ready to do battle, and made no effort to avoid +her canine foes, neither dog could be induced +to tackle her again. The barzoi acted as +though he was willing if any assistance was +afforded by the half-breed. Neither of these +dogs showed any evidence of cowardice, in my +opinion, though credited with it by representatives +of the press present. The evidences of +this feeling are unmistakable, and I have seen +fear and terror too often expressed by dogs, +when attacked or run by wolves, not to recognize +it when present. They did not turn a +hair, and walked about within twenty feet of +the wolf with their tails carried as gayly as +though they were on exhibition at a bench +show. Very different was the action of a +rancher's dog, evidently a cross between a St. +Bernard and a mastiff, that came up at this +stage of the game. As soon as he caught +sight of the wolf, every hair on his back reversed, +his tail drooped between his legs, and<a name="Page_354" id="Page_354"></a> +the efforts of three strong men could hardly +have held him. This I call fear and cowardice; +the actions of the others, a lack of proper +training and knowledge of how to fight. As +the wolf was a female and apparently heavy +with whelp, I at the time thought this was the +cause of their queer actions; but later, when +skinning the wolf for the pelt, I found no +evidence of whelp, but a stomach full of calf's +flesh. In the second course, Allan Breck, a +big, powerful Scotch deerhound, and Nipsic, a +lighter female of the same breed, were put in +the slips and a male wolf put up. They readily +overhauled him. Allan, leading several +lengths in the run up, promptly took a shoulder +hold and bowled over the wolf; then, as +though he considered his whole duty performed, +quietly looked on, while Nipsic kept +up a running fight with the wolf, attacking +him a score of times, but was unable alone +to disable or kill him. It was only after the +wolf and Nipsic were lassoed and dragged +apart by horsemen that she desisted in her +crude efforts to kill the wolf. She displayed +no lack of courage, but a total lack of training +and knowledge of how to fight. In the final +course two grand specimens of the barzoi were<a name="Page_355" id="Page_355"></a> +placed in the slips; one of them, Zlooem, a +magnificent animal, all power and life, who +had won the Czar's gold medal in St. Petersburg +in a wolf contest, impressed me forcibly +with the idea that, if he once obtained a throat +hold, it would be all over with the wolf. On +this occasion I had a most excellent mount, a +thoroughbred Kentucky race mare, and, as one +of the conditions of the match was that I +alone was to be allowed to follow the hounds, +I determined to stay with them throughout +the run at all hazards, and to be in at the +death. The wolf was put up in the bottom +land of the Platte River. The footing was +excellent, and, as he had but a few hundred +yards' start, I was enabled to be within fifty +yards of them throughout the run and fighting. +The wolf at first started off as though he had +decided to depend upon speed to save his +pelt, disdaining to employ his usual stratagem, +and the hounds gained but little upon him. +Finding that but one horseman and two +strange-looking animals were following him, +he slackened his pace, and in an incredibly +short time Zlooem was upon even terms with +him, and, seizing by the throat, over and over +they went in a cloud of sand, from which the<a name="Page_356" id="Page_356"></a> +wolf emerged first, again on the retreat, with +both hounds after him full tilt. Within a +hundred yards they again downed him, only +to be shaken off. This was repeated probably +a half dozen times, and, though both the barzois +had throat and flank holds, they were unable +to "stretch him." After five minutes of +fast and furious fighting, they dashed into a +bunch of frightened cattle and became separated. +Though I immediately cut the wolf out +of the bunch of cattle and he limped off in full +view, the dogs were too exhausted to follow, +and their condition was truly pitiable. Zlooem +staggered about and fell headlong upon his +side, unable to rise. Both were so thoroughly +exhausted from their tremendous efforts that +they could not stand upon their feet; their +tongues were swollen and protruding full +length, their breath came in short and labored +gasps, the whistle and rattle in their throats +was audible at some distance, while their legs +trembled and were really unable to sustain the +weight of their bodies. At the expiration of +ten minutes, I signaled the slippers to come +and take the dogs up; and thus ended the bid +of the Russian wolfhound for popularity in +this country.<a name="Page_357" id="Page_357"></a></p> + +<p>Upon our return to Denver we were waited +upon by a ranchman who had heard of the +failure of a pair of these dogs to catch and kill +wolves. He stated that he had a leash of +greyhounds that could catch and kill gray +timber wolves, and deposited $500 to bind a +match to that effect. He was very much in +earnest, and I regretted that we could not raise +a purse of $500, as I should like to have seen +the feat performed—my experience being that +it required from four to six to accomplish this, +and that even then they have to understand +their business thoroughly.</p> + +<p class="signature2">Roger D. Williams.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_13" id="CHAPTER_13"></a>Game Laws</h2> + + +<p>Laws for the preservation of wild animals +are a product of civilization. The more civilized +a nation, the broader and more humane +will be these laws.</p> + +<p>Our ancestors of the flint age were lawless. +After the fall "thorns also and thistles" came +forth, and man ceased from eating herb-bearing +seed and fruit, and turned his hand to killing +and eating flesh—"even as Nimrod, the +mighty hunter before the Lord." Many great +and dangerous animals then existed, and it was +a necessity to kill off the cave bear, the cave +tiger and the mastodon. The earliest of Chaldean +poems indicates the equally great fishing +of those days: "Canst thou draw out leviathan +with an hook, or his tongue with a cord +which thou lettest down?" All savage nations +are still ruthless and wasteful in their destruction +of animal life. An example is found on +the plains, where a thousand buffalo were<a name="Page_359" id="Page_359"></a> +driven over the walls of a cañon that a tribe +might have a feast, although the tribe might, +and often did, starve during the coming +winter.</p> + +<p>With the slow progress of civilization, at +first customs grew up, and then laws were +enacted consonant with the degree of education +of the lawmakers. In ancient Oriental +nations only a few animals were protected for +the use of the rulers. Thus the elephant, the +cheetah and the falcon in the East came under +royal protection. The Normans, when they +were not at war, followed the chase with ardor, +and passed laws for the protection of deer, +wolves and the wild boar. The Saxons, like +the Romans, guarded their forest preserves, +but left the open country free for chase to all +the people. After the Conquest the new Norman +rulers applied their own stern and selfish +laws over all England. Not only was the +chase forbidden, but the bearing of arms used +in the chase as well, and the conquerors thus +preserved the game for their own use, and also +kept in subjection the disarmed people. Their +punishments were barbarous, and comprised +maiming and death, and the killing of a deer +or a wild boar was punished with putting out<a name="Page_360" id="Page_360"></a> +the eyes or death. No greater penalty was +inflicted for the killing of a man.</p> + +<p>The underlying principle maintained was +that all wild game was the property of no one, +and that to which no one had title belonged to +the sovereign. So the king held all lands not +apportioned, and granted permission to his +chiefs to hunt therein. He also created the +right of <i>free chase</i>, <i>warren</i> and <i>free fishery</i>, +thus authorizing a designated person to protect +game and to follow the chase on the land +of others, or protect and take fish from rivers +and streams that flowed over the properties of +other men. These claims of right became +numerous and so burdensome that they were +subsequently restricted by Magna Charta. +The fascination of the chase, indulged in for +years, became so inwrought in the English +mind that it formed the principal recreation of +the people, shared in alike by nobles, priests +and peasants, evoking a world of romance and +legend in Robin Hood tales, and a sturdy, +semi-warlike pride. The exercise formed a +school of stalwart out-of-door men, whose descendants +of like taste have invaded the remotest +isles of the sea, and girdled the earth +with the colonies of England. The taste<a name="Page_361" id="Page_361"></a> +made its fair mark on English verse from the +early date of Chevy Chase, when,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">To chase the deer with hawk and hound<br></span> +<span class="i0">Earl Percy took his way,<br></span> +</div></div> + +<p>down to this present year of grace, when Conan +Doyle's archer sings:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">So we'll drink all together<br></span> +<span class="i0">To the grey goose feather,<br></span> +<span class="i0">And the land where the grey goose flew.<br></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The pomp and dignity of the chase, its pursuit +by the highest clergy and the sad result of +want of skill by an archbishop are quaintly disclosed +in the trial of the Archbishop of Canterbury +for accidentally killing a game-keeper +instead of a deer in the forest of Bramshill in +the year 1621, as reported at length in Vol. II. +of Cobbett's State Trials.</p> + +<p>The right in the crown to all wild game, +thus claimed and established in England, became +part of the common law, and was inherited +by the American colonies; and thus +wild game in our Republic became the property +of the people, and the duty of its care +and protection fell upon the different States +of the Republic, and in the territories upon +Congress.<a name="Page_362" id="Page_362"></a></p> + +<p>It is unnecessary to enumerate the different +game laws and the various cruel judgments +entered therein in the English courts, or to +refer to the many essays and orations written +and delivered against the game laws of the +various European States. They met the condemnation +alike of philanthropists, statesmen +and poets. Charles Kingsley wrote in 1848, +on behalf of the people, the bold and pathetic +song:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">The merry brown hares came leaping<br></span> +<span class="i0">Over the crest of the hill.<br></span> +</div></div> + +<p>It defended the poacher lad, but lost for the +writer his lawn sleeves.</p> + +<p>The great distinction to be ever borne in +mind between the game laws of Europe and +those of America is, that the former were +passed for the protection of game for a class, +while the laws of a republic are passed for +the preservation of game for the use of all the +people. The former encountered the hostility +of all the people save the aristocracy; the latter +should obtain the approbation of all the +people, rich and poor, for they are passed and +maintained for the good of the people at large.</p> + +<p>The value of the fish and game to the people +of the State of Maine is greater and brings<a name="Page_363" id="Page_363"></a> +into the State more money than its hay crop +or its potato crop. The value of a mountain +stream is nothing except as it may water people +or kine. Stock and protect that river by +suitable laws, and the fishing privileges may be +rented for an annual rental that will pay all +the taxes of every county through which it +runs. Yet often it is that the inhabitant of +that county complains of the injustice of preventing +him from taking fish therein at his +pleasure at any season of the year.</p> + +<p>The earliest recorded game law is found in +the twenty-second chapter of Deuteronomy, +where it is forbidden to take a bird from her +nest. The earliest law upon this subject in +America that we find was the act of the Assembly +of Virginia of 1699, II. William III., +wherein the killing of deer between January +and July was prohibited under a penalty of +500 pounds of tobacco. In Maryland an act +was passed on the same subject in 1730, which +recites the evils of constant shooting—"Which +evil practice, if not put a stop to, may in a few +years entirely destroy the species of deer, to +the great damage of the good people of this +province; be it enacted by the Right Honorable +the Lord proprietary, by and with the<a name="Page_364" id="Page_364"></a> +consent of his Lordship's Governor and the +upper and lower Houses of Assembly, that it +should not be lawful that any person (Indians +in amity with us excepted), between January +first and July last, to kill any deer under the +penalty of 400 pounds of tobacco." South +Carolina followed in 1769 with an act prohibiting +the killing of deer during the same period, +"under a penalty of forty shillings proclamation +money." Both of these acts prohibited +night hunting with fire-light, as did also the +Statutes of the Mississippi Territory.</p> + +<p>The earliest laws upon this subject in Kentucky +were passed in 1775 by the Legislature, +appropriately holding its sessions under the +greenwood trees, and their author was Daniel +Boone.</p> + +<p>The earliest law in the State of New York +was passed in 1791 (2 Session Laws of 1791, +p. 188), and it prohibited the killing of "heath +hen, partridge, quail or woodcock" on Long +Island, or "in the city and county of New +York," under penalty of twenty shillings.</p> + +<p>Laws upon this subject thereafter multiplied +in New York, varying in their scope and character +with every Legislature. Sometimes the +prosecution was left to the county prosecutor;<a name="Page_365" id="Page_365"></a> +sometimes it was permitted to the informer, +who shared the penalty; sometimes the power +of enacting laws was reserved to the State; +sometimes it was delegated to the supervisors. +In 1879, by the influence of the Society for the +Preservation of Game, a complete act was +passed, entitled "An Act for the Preservation +of Moose and Wild Deer, Birds, Fish and +other Game," which for many years was vigorously +enforced by that Society, and became the +model for like laws in many other States. +This law made the possession of game during +the close season the offense, and not <i>prima +facie</i> evidence of killing, and also it removed +from the various local supervisors the power +of making laws upon this subject.</p> + +<p>These two essential features of law cannot +be too strongly insisted upon with all lawmakers. +Under this statute hundreds of prosecutions +were made and convictions had in +the markets of the great cities. The bidding +for game by wealthy cities is the incentive +to unlawful killing, and the closing of the +markets stops the poacher's business more +thoroughly than the conviction of an occasional +poacher. When the law permitted game +killed in other States during the open season<a name="Page_366" id="Page_366"></a> +to be sold in the State of New York in the +close season, there was no lack of evidence to +show that every head of game was killed elsewhere +and in the open season, and the petit +jury always found in favor of the oppressed +market man. When the law was changed so +that all game, wherever killed, was decreed +illegal, the defense was plead that such a law +restricted commerce and was unconstitutional; +and it was not until the Society carried the +case of Royal Phelps, President of the Society +for the Preservation of Game, against Racey, +through to the court of last resort, as reported +in 60th New York Reports, that this +defense was decreed insufficient. That case +was followed in Illinois (97 Ill., 320), and Missouri +(1st Mo. App., 15), and in other States, +until it became the established law of the +land. The Supreme Court of the United +States held (125 U. S., 465), that a State +cannot prohibit the importation of merchandise +from another State, but can the sale. +That court also sustained the right of States +to protect fisheries and destroy illegal nets +(Lawton <i>vs.</i> Steel, 152 U. S.), and it affirmed +the right of States to compel the maintenance +of fishways in dams erected in rivers (Holyoke<a name="Page_367" id="Page_367"></a> +Co. <i>vs.</i> Lyman, 82 U. S.). The United States +courts also maintained purchaser's title to +marsh lands and enjoined trespassers from +shooting thereon in Chisholm <i>vs.</i> Caines (U. S. +Circuit Court of the 4th District). Thus, step +by step, the game laws of the land were sustained, +held to be constitutional and enforced.</p> + +<p>The forms of defense which offenders deem +it righteous to make to game prosecutions are +without number, and as fraudulent as their +trade is wasteful. One instance will illustrate. +The writer, as counsel for the Society for the +Protection of Game, prosecuted one Clark, +a prominent poulterer in State street in Albany, +for having and offering for sale several +barrels of quail. The case was tried at Albany, +Hon. Amasa J. Parker appearing for +the defense. After the plaintiff's witnesses +had proved the possession of the birds, the +offering for sale as quail, and the handling +of several of them by the witnesses, the defendant +testified that these birds were not +quail at all, but were English snipe, and that +their bills were pared down and the birds were +thus sold as quail, as they brought a better +price, and that he frequently did so in his +trade. Probably no person in the court-room<a name="Page_368" id="Page_368"></a> +believed this evidence, but the jury found for +the defendant.</p> + +<p>The defense has been frequently interposed, +that the birds in question were not the prohibited +birds, but were some other or foreign +variety, until it was found that it was necessary +always to purchase and to produce +in court, fresh or dried, some of the game +in regard to which the suit was being tried.</p> + +<p>Before leaving the litigation of the courts +of the State of New York, and in order to +show how early and ardently the gentlemen of +the old school followed the diversions of the +chase, it is well to cite the case of Post +against Pierson, tried in 1805 before the venerable +Judges Tompkins and Livingston, and +reported in 3d Cain's New York Reports. It +there appears that Mr. Post, a worthy citizen +of that most traditional hunting ground, +Long Island, organized a fox-hunt. The chase +went merrily—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">An hundred hounds bayed deep and strong,<br></span> +<span class="i0">Clattered an hundred [more or less] steeds along,<br></span> +</div></div> + +<p>and they started a fox and had him in view, +when one Pierson, of Hempstead, the defendant +in the case, well knowing of the chase, yet<a name="Page_369" id="Page_369"></a> +with wicked and felonious mind intercepted, +shot, killed and carried away the fox. Post +brought suit for the value of the animal, and +the injury to the outraged feelings of the +members of the hunt. Counsel learned in the +law declaimed, and the wise opinion of the +court, citing all the authorities from Puffendorf +down, covers five printed pages, and +finally decided that, "However uncourteous +or unkind the conduct of Pierson in this instance +may have been, yet this act was productive +of no injury or damage for which a +legal remedy can be applied."</p> + +<p>Probably to correct this ruling, the Statute +of 1844 was passed, which provides that anyone +who starts and pursues deer in the Counties +of Suffolk and Queens shall be deemed +in possession of the same.</p> + +<p>A great responsibility is thrown upon the +Government of the United States to protect +the large game in the different national parks. +In a few years they will contain the only remnants +of the buffalo, elk, antelope and mountain +sheep. Poachers, like wolves, surround +these parks, killing only to sell the heads +for trophies. Captain George S. Anderson +and Scout F. Burgess have done a good<a name="Page_370" id="Page_370"></a> +work in the Yellowstone Park in capturing +poachers, which efforts were recognized by the +Boone and Crockett Club. If authority should +be given to the army to try and punish these +poachers by martial law, it would save many a +herd elsewhere, and also relieve the Government +from great expense for the transporting +and trial of offenders.</p> + +<p>When we reflect how many and valuable +races of animals in North America have become +extinct or nearly so, as the buffalo and +the manatee; how many varieties of birds that +afforded us food, or brightened the autumn +sky with their migrations, have been annihilated, +as have been the prairie fowl in the +Eastern States and the passenger pigeon in +all our States, the necessity of these laws appears +urgent. A few suggestions that experience +has taught us in regard to these matters +are worthy of record.</p> + +<p>We must remember that in a republic no +law is effective without public opinion to back +it. Therefore, <a name="tn_394"></a><!-- TN: "cotemporaneously" changed to "contemporaneously"-->contemporaneously with making +our laws, we should by writing and speaking +educate the public mind to appreciate and sustain +them. Experience has taught that in +these prosecutions the public prosecutor is a<a name="Page_371" id="Page_371"></a> +laggard. He prefers noted criminal cases and +neglects these, which he regards as trivial offenses. +Therefore the law should authorize +private prosecutors, on giving security for +costs and damages, to make search and conduct +prosecutions in their own names.</p> + +<p>Next, it is to be remembered that a single +private person will make himself odious in the +community by bringing such prosecutions, and +is often deterred by the fear of revenge. +Therefore, societies should be formed, composed +of many good citizens; they should employ +their own counsel, and prosecute in the +name of the society or its president.</p> + +<p>Next, the law should definitely fix a penalty +for having in possession, transporting or exposing +for sale. This is more important than +prohibiting the killing, as it is the marketing +of dead game that incites the killing. It is +the market hunter that has destroyed all +feathered life on our prairies, and the cold +storage process has enabled him to transport +to other States or countries, and make +his gains there. Close the market and the +killing ceases.</p> + +<p>Another step to success is the procuring of +the conformity of the laws in neighboring<a name="Page_372" id="Page_372"></a> +States. The laws of New York may prohibit +the sale of quail, ruffed grouse and prairie +fowl, and the societies may enforce them in +New York city, and day by day see the monstrous +wrong of carloads of prairie fowl and +other valuable game brought into Jersey City, +and sold to the population of that town and to +the ocean vessels sailing from its docks. Our +Western prairies are denuded of their birds, +that are frozen in the close season and are +afterward shipped to Europe, and sold in the +markets there at a price often less than they +would bring in New York city.</p> + +<p>Again, laws on these subjects should be as +simple as possible, including in the one open +and close season as many kinds of game as +possible, and creating a general public understanding +that the shooting season opens at a +fixed date, say October 1st, and that no shooting +or possession of game is to be allowed +prior to that date, and that the close season +for all game should commence on another certain +date, say February 1st.</p> + +<p>Lastly, a defective law, that is permanent +and uniform throughout the State, is more +effective than a better and more detailed law +varying in different counties and towns, and<a name="Page_373" id="Page_373"></a> +frequently altered. In illustration of the vagaries +of lawmakers in this respect, it is to be +remembered that the law of 1879, passed by +the Legislature of the State of New York, +was a complete and well-studied statute, made +after much consultation, and meeting the approval +of all the societies of the State, as well +as the market men, and operated in the main +satisfactorily to all. Since that date members +of the Legislature from the different localities +introduced bills making some exception or addition +to the act, to benefit their little town or +locality, to prohibit fishing in certain waters, +to protect certain other animals, to provide +certain restrictions as to weapons of chase or +means of fishing, or times and seasons; or +giving powers to county supervisors to legislate +in addition to the general legislation of +the State. Two hundred and fourteen such +acts and ordinances have been passed since +1879, until the general law has been obscured +and brought into contempt. These acts and +ordinances include, among other curiosities, +the protection of muskrats and mink, the +preservation of skunks and other vermin, the +prohibition of residents of one county from +fishing in another county, and protecting parts<a name="Page_374" id="Page_374"></a> +of certain lakes or rivers in a different manner +or season from other parts. In some of the +acts words are misspelled; in one it is enacted +that "<i>wild birds</i> shall not be killed at any +time." Another act was passed defining the +word "angling," as used in the general statute, +thus—"taking fish with hook and line and by +rod held in hands," leaving the troller or the +happy schoolboy, that drops his hand-line from +the bridge, exposed to the dire penalties of the +law. While writing in this year of grace, +eighteen hundred and ninety-five, the Legislature +has passed a law permitting the sale of +game at any time in the year, providing it is +shown to have been killed 300 miles from the +State.</p> + +<p>This most unreasonable law was procured +largely through the influence of the Chicago +market men. The States lying west of Chicago +have been endeavoring to protect their +game. Salutary laws have been passed prohibiting +the killing and freezing of game, and +the transportation of it outside of those territories. +The markets of Chicago and the other +great cities of the West being closed to the +public sale of game, the dealers sought to open +the markets of New York, and they have thus<a name="Page_375" id="Page_375"></a> +done so by this law. The Governor was fully +advised of the purpose and effect of the law, +but the powerful societies of the market men +were promoting it and the bill was approved. +In a few years the conspicuous prairie fowl +will exist only in the naturalists' books.</p> + +<p>In olden times laws upon these subjects protected +only animals which lent pleasure to the +chase, and also certain royal fish which were +deemed to belong to the king. These old +laws were selfish and severe, and were enforced +with the cruelty of the age. A gentler +spirit has since dawned upon the world, and +now most game laws shelter as well the song +bird as the wild boar and the stag. The true +hunter derives more pleasure in watching the +natural life around him than in killing the +game that he meets. His heart feels the poetry +of nature in the "wren light rustling among +the leaves and twigs," and in the train of +ducks as,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Darkly seen against the crimson sky,<br></span> +<span class="i0">Their figure floats along.<br></span> +</div></div> + +<p>He stops to enjoy the guttural syllables where +"Robert of Lincoln is telling his name" in the +summer meadow. At early dawn and even<a name="Page_376" id="Page_376"></a>tide +he listens to the bugle call of the great +migration in the skies and exclaims:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Thou hast no sorrow in thy song,<br></span> +<span class="i0">No winter in thy year.<br></span> +</div></div> + +<p>He feels the love that is begotten by contact +with nature, and he it is in these later +days who has extended the laws to protect all +birds of meadow and woods, while in return he +is rewarded by a choir of songsters giving +thanks in musical numbers,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Better than all measures<br></span> +<span class="i2">Of delightful sound,<br></span> +<span class="i0">Better than all treasures,<br></span> +<span class="i2">That in books are found.<br></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="signature2">Chas. E. Whitehead.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377"></a> +<a name="CHAPTER_14" id="CHAPTER_14"></a> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="elk"></a> + +<img src="images/i015.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="438"> +<p class="caption">YELLOWSTONE PARK ELK.</p></div> + +<h2>Protection of the Yellowstone +National Park</h2> + + +<p>The first regular expedition to enter the +region now embraced within the limits of the +National Park was the Washburn party of +1870.</p> + +<p>In the summer of 1871 two parties—one +under Captain J. W. Barlow, U. S. Engineers, +and the other under Dr. F. V. Hayden, U. S. +Geological Survey—made pretty thorough +scientific explorations of the whole area.</p> + +<p>As a result of the reports made by these +two parties, and largely through the influence +of Dr. Hayden, the organic act of March 1, +1872, was passed, setting aside a certain designated +"tract of land as a public park or pleasure +ground for the benefit and enjoyment of +the people." It further provided that this +Park should be "under the exclusive control +of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it +shall be, as soon as practicable, to make and +publish such rules and regulations as he may<a name="Page_378" id="Page_378"></a> +deem necessary or proper for the care and +management of the same. Such regulations +shall provide for the preservation from injury +or spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, +natural curiosities or wonders within the Park.</p> + +<p>"He shall provide against the wanton destruction +of the fish and game found within +said Park, and against their capture or destruction +for the purpose of merchandise or +profit.</p> + +<p>"And generally shall be authorized to take +all such measures as shall be necessary or +proper to fully carry out the objects or purposes +of this act."</p> + +<p>It will be seen that "timber, mineral deposits, +natural curiosities and wonders" were, +by the terms of the <i>law</i>, protected from "injury +or spoliation." The Secretary of the Interior +must, by <i>regulation</i>, "provide against +the wanton destruction of fish and game," and +against their "capture for the purpose of merchandise +or profit." The Park proper includes +nearly 3,600 square miles, but under the act of +1891 a timber reserve was set aside, adding +about twenty-five miles on the east and about +eight on the south, making the total area nearly +5,600 square miles. By an order of the Secre<a name="Page_379" id="Page_379"></a>tary +of the Interior, dated April 14, 1891, this +addition was placed under the control of the +Acting Superintendent of the Park, "with the +same rules and regulations" as in the Park; it +thus in every respect became a part of the +Park itself.</p> + +<p>Dr. Hayden drew the Park bill from his +personal observations, made in the summer of +1871. At that time the territorial lines were +not run, and their exact location was not +known. He consequently chose for his initial +points the natural features of the ground, and +made his lines meridians and parallels of latitude. +His selections seem almost a work of +inspiration. The north line takes in the low +slopes on the north of Mt. Everts and the valley +of the East Fork of the Yellowstone, where +the elk, deer, antelope and mountain sheep +winter by thousands; it leaves outside every +foot of land adapted to agriculture; also—and +this is more important than all—it passes +over the rugged and inaccessible summits of +the snowy range, where the hardiest vandal +dare not put his shack.</p> + +<p>The east line might have been placed where +the timber reserve line now runs without much +damage to material interests; but in that case<a name="Page_380" id="Page_380"></a> +the owners of prospect holes about Cooke +City would have long since secured segregation. +As the line runs, it is secured by the +impassable Absarokas—the summer home of +large herds of mountain sheep—and it includes +not a foot of land of a dime's value +to mortal man. Both south and west lines +are protected by mountain heights, and they +exclude every foot of land of any value for +agriculture, or even for the grazing of domestic +cattle.</p> + +<p>The experiment was once made of wintering +a herd of cattle in the lowest part of +the Park—the Falls River meadows, in the +extreme southwest corner—and, I believe, not +a hoof survived. Their bones by the hundreds +now whiten the fair valley.</p> + +<p>Following the act of dedication, Mr. N. P. +Langford was on May 10, 1872, appointed +superintendent, without salary. He was directed +to "apply any money which may be +received from leases to carrying out the object +of the act." He never lived in the Park, +never drew a salary, and never, except by +reports and recommendations, did anything +for its protection. In his first report he suggests +that "wild game of all kinds be pro<a name="Page_381" id="Page_381"></a>tected +by law," that trapping be prohibited, +and that the timber be protected from the +axman and from fires. Unfortunately I am +unable to possess myself of any of his subsequent +reports; but I know that he toiled +earnestly and without pay—and to no results.</p> + +<p>On April 18, 1877, Mr. P. W. Norris was +appointed to succeed him. He also served +for love until July 5, 1878, when appropriations +began, and something was done for +"Park protection." In his report for 1879 he +speaks of having stopped the killing of bison, +and says that other game, although "grown +shy by the usually harmless fusillade of tourists," +was in "abundance for our largest parties." +He also protected the wonders by +breaking them off with ax and crowbar, and +shipping them by the carload to Washington +and elsewhere. His men did their best +to protect the forests from fires, and with only +fair success. By this report (1879) it seems +that "no white men have ever spent an entire +winter at the Mammoth Hot Springs"; he +strongly recommended game protection, but +not the prohibition of hunting. There was +then but a single game superintendent, and he +without authority to act. As at present, the<a name="Page_382" id="Page_382"></a> +main trouble was with the "Clark's Fork" +people. The regulations permitted hunting +for "recreation" or "for food," which would +always be made to cover the object of any +captured poacher.</p> + +<p>Major Norris was doubtless a valuable man +for the place and the time; but, as he expressed +it in a manifesto dated July 1, 1881, and headed +"Mountain Comrades," "The construction +of roads and bridle paths will be our main object," +to which he added the work of "explorations +and research." His entire force lived +upon game, which was hunted only in season, +and preserved, or jerked, for a supply for the +remainder of the year. He was succeeded by +Mr. P. H. Conger on February 2, 1882, but Mr. +Conger did not arrive until May 22 following, +when he seems to have fallen full upon the +trials and the tribulations that have beset his +successors. He reported the necessity for protecting +the wonders and the game, but seems +to have accomplished nothing in either direction. +His reports are largely made up of lists +of the distinguished visitors by whose hand-shake +he was anointed. He was relieved in +August, 1884, by Mr. R. E. Carpenter, who +was removed in May, 1885, without accom<a name="Page_383" id="Page_383"></a>plishing +anything. Mr. David W. Wear was +next in succession, and remained until legislated +out of office in August, 1886. Nothing of +value seems to have been done in these two +administrations. In the sundry civil appropriation +bill for 1886-87 the item for the protection +and improvement of the Park was +omitted. By the act of March 3, 1883, the +Secretary of War was authorized, on request +from the Secretary of the Interior, to detail +part of the army for duty in the Park, the +commander of the troops to be the acting superintendent. +As there was no money appropriated +to pay the old officers, they, of course, had +business elsewhere. Captain Moses Harris, +First Cavalry, was the first detailed under the +new regime. He arrived there on August 17, +1886, and assumed control on the 20th. From +this time on things assumed a different aspect. +He had the assistance of a disciplined troop of +cavalry, and he used it with energy and discretion. +It very soon became unsafe to trespass +in the Park, winter or summer, and load upon +load of confiscated property testified to the +number of his captures. His reports show the +heroic efforts made to prevent and extinguish +fires, to prevent the defacement of the geysers<a name="Page_384" id="Page_384"></a> +and other formations, and to protect the game. +In his report for 1887 he pays his respects to +our enemies from "the northern and eastern +borders"—the same hand that has continued +to depredate until this day. He speaks of the +"immense herds of elk that have passed the +winter along the traveled road from Gardiner +to Cooke City," and he goes on to say that +"but little efficient protection can be afforded +to this species of game except upon the Yellowstone +and its <a name="tn_410"></a><!-- TN: Quotation mark added after "tributaries."-->tributaries." He remained in +charge until June 1, 1889, when he transferred +his duties to Captain F. A. Boutelle, and in +the three years of his rule he inaugurated and +put in motion most of the protective measures +now in use.</p> + +<p>Captain Boutelle, in succession to Captain +Harris, continued his methods, and protection +prospered. Meantime, in 1889, an additional +troop of cavalry was detailed for duty in the +Park in the summer, and had station at the +Lower Geyser Basin. The principal use of this +troop was in protecting the formations and the +forests, but the work was well done and the +foundation was laid for future efficiency.</p> + +<p>I came to the Park in February, 1891, in +succession to Captain Boutelle. On his depar<a name="Page_385" id="Page_385"></a>ture +there was only one man left here familiar +with the Park and its needs, and that was Ed. +Wilson, the scout. He had been a trapper +himself, and was thoroughly familiar with every +species of game and its haunts and habits. +He was brave as Cæsar, but feared the mysterious +and unseen. He preferred to operate +alone by night and in storms; he knew +every foot of the Park, and knew it better +than any other man has yet known it; he +knew its enemies and the practical direction of +their enmity. He came to me one morning +and reported that a man named Van Dyck +was trapping beaver near Soda Butte; that he +spent his days on the highest points in the +neighborhood, and with a glass scanned every +approach; and that the only way to get him +was to go alone, by night, and approach the +position from the rear, over Specimen Mountain. +To this I readily assented, and at 9 +that night, in as bad a storm as I ever saw, +Wilson started out for the forty-mile trip. +He reached a high point near the one occupied +by Van Dyck, saw him visit his traps +in the twilight and return to his camp, where +at daybreak the next morning Wilson came +upon him while sleeping, photographed him<a name="Page_386" id="Page_386"></a> +with his own kodak, and then awakened him +and brought him to the post. But, unfortunately +for the cause of Park protection, Wilson +disappeared in July of that year, and his remains +were found a mile from headquarters +in the June following. That left me unsupported +by anyone who knew the place and +its foes; I was fortunate, however, in having +as his successor Felix Burgess, who for more +than three years has ably, bravely and intelligently +performed the perilous and thankless +duties of the position.</p> + +<p>But before going on with a description of +my own work in the Park, I will say a few +words of my predecessors. In looking over +the list, I think I can, without disparagement +of the rest, single out three for especial +mention.</p> + +<p>Langford was an explorer and pioneer; by +his writings he made the Park known to this +country and to the whole world. He was an +enthusiast and his enthusiasm was contagious. +Protection was not yet needed, but a knowledge +of the place was, and to this he largely +contributed. He was the proper man and he +came at the proper time.</p> + +<p>Next came Major Norris. To him protec<a name="Page_387" id="Page_387"></a>tion +was a minor or unconsidered subject. +His "usually harmless fusillade of tourists" +reminds one of Paddy's remark to his master: +"Did I hit the deer, Pat?" "No, my lord, +but you made him l'ave the place." For his +time he was exactly suited; he penetrated +every remote nook and corner; built roads, +blazed trails, and in general made accessible +all the wonders written of and described by +Mr. Langford. Protection was not yet due, +but it was on the road and close at hand.</p> + +<p>For this part of the work Major Harris was +an ideal selection, and he came none too soon. +Austere, correct, unyielding, he was a terror to +evil doers. And, after all, is there anything +more disagreeable than a man who is always +right? I believe Major Harris was always +<i>sure</i> he was right before he acted, and then no +fear of consequences deterred him. He once +arrested a man for defacing the formations +at the Upper Basin. The man confessed that +he had done it, but that it was a small offense, +and that if put out of the Park for it he would +publish the Major in all the Montana papers. +He was put out, and the Major was vilified +in a manner with which I am personally very +familiar. The next year this same man was<a name="Page_388" id="Page_388"></a> +sent to the penitentiary for one year for "holding +up" one of the Park coaches in the Gardiner +Cañon. In 1891 I derived great assistance in +the protection of the wonders and the forests +from Captain Edwards, who, with his troop, +had served in the Park before. Unfortunately +he had to leave in the autumn, and I was +again left alone with my ignorance and my +good intentions.</p> + +<p>In May, 1892, Troop D of the Sixth Cavalry +was sent to my assistance. Captain Scott +was in command, and he has remained until +the present time. Hard as iron, tireless and +fearless, he has been an invaluable assistant in +all that pertains to Park protection.</p> + +<p>In protecting the beauties and wonders of +the Park from vandalism, the main things to +be contended against were the propensities of +women to gather "specimens," and of men to +advertise their folly by writing their names on +everything beautiful within their reach. Small +squads of soldiers were put on guard at each +of the geyser basins, and at other points where +protection was needful, with orders to arrest +and threaten with expulsion anyone found +breaking off or gathering specimens. Only +a few examples were needed to materially<a name="Page_389" id="Page_389"></a> +diminish this evil. Of course, it still continued +in small degree, but those who indulged +in it had to be at great pains to conceal their +operations, and this of itself greatly reduced +the destruction. I personally engaged in a +long controversy with a reverend despoiler, +whom I detected in the act of breaking off +a specimen. A large part of his defense was +that, as I had on no uniform, he did not know +it was necessary to be watchful and careful in +my presence.</p> + +<p>The names of the vain glared at one from +every bit of formation, and from every place +where the ingenuity of vanity could place +them. Primarily I ordered that every man +found writing his name on the formations +should be sent back and made to erase it. I +once sent a man from the Mammoth Springs +and once a man from the Cañon to the Upper +Basin to scrub his autograph from the rocks; +and one morning a callow youth from the +West was aroused at 6:30 <span class="smcap">A. M.</span> at the Fountain +Hotel and taken, with brush and soap, to +the Fountain Geyser, there to obliterate the +supposed imperishable monument of his folly. +His parents, who were present, were delighted +with the judgment awarded him, and his fel<a name="Page_390" id="Page_390"></a>low +tourists by their taunts and gibes covered +him with confusion as with a garment. But, +notwithstanding the sharpest watch and greatest +care, new names were constantly being added, +and they could not easily be detected from +the old ones on account of the number of +names already there. So, in the early part of the +season of 1892, with hammer and chisel, where +necessary, the old names were erased and we +started even with the world, and the geyser +basins are practically free from this disfigurement +to-day. The remedy was heroic and +successful, as such remedies usually are.</p> + +<p>The protection of the forests—perhaps of +more material importance than any other form +of Park protection—became a subject of study, +care and attention. As a rule, fires originated +in one of three ways: by carelessly left camp +fires, by lightning, or by the rubbing together +of two trees swayed by the wind. There is no +way of preventing the last two forms of ignition; +the only thing to be done is to keep a +ceaseless watch, and, so far as practicable, prevent +the fire from spreading. The extensive +areas burned over in days evidently prior to +the advent of white men make it very apparent +that these two agencies of destruction were<a name="Page_391" id="Page_391"></a> +then at work, as it is certain they have been +since. Camping parties are many of them from +cities, and they know little, and care less, +about the devastation a forest fire may create. +They leave a small and apparently harmless +bunch of coals where their camp fire was; +after they have passed on, a wind springs up, +fans the embers into flame, the dry pine needles +are kindled, and at once the forest is +ablaze, and no power on earth can put it out. +When once the flame reaches the tree tops, if +the wind be strong, a man on horseback can +scarce escape before it. As the wind ceases +the fire quiets down, only to spring up again +next day on the appearance of the afternoon +breeze. The only time to fight the fire is +when the wind has gone down and the flames +have ceased. Then water poured on smouldering +logs, earth thrown on unextinguished +stumps, and the clearing of a path before the +line of fire in the carpet of pine needles are +the effective means of extinguishment. After +a fire is once got under control it is no unusual +thing for it to reappear 500 yards from any +of its previous lines, carried there as a spark +through the air, and dropped in the resinous +tinder ever ready to receive and spread it.<a name="Page_392" id="Page_392"></a></p> + +<p>In the four seasons during which I have +been in the Park but one fire of any magnitude +has occurred. That broke out along the +main road, about a mile north of Norris, in +July, 1893. As it did not break out near a +camping place, its origin could not be traced +to camp fires; nor could it be charged to +lightning or rubbing of trees. It was evidently +started by a match or other fire carelessly +dropped by a member of the road crew, +then working near there, or possibly by a cigar +stump thrown from a stage by a tourist. It +was at once reported to me by telegraph. The +troop was at drill, and in less than twenty minutes +a dozen men, under charge of a sergeant, +were on their way, with shovels, axes and +buckets, to the scene of the trouble. An hour +later the report was that it was beyond control. +I then sent out the balance of the troop, +under Lieutenant Vance, and ordered Captain +Scott down from the Lower Basin with all +available men of his troop. Thus the whole +of the two troops were at the scene, and they +remained there toiling and fighting night and +day for twenty days, when a providential rain +put an end to their labors. The area burned +over included some exceptionally fine timber,<a name="Page_393" id="Page_393"></a> +was in extreme length nearly six miles, and in +breadth from a few feet in some places to near +a mile in others.</p> + +<p>A fire in pine woods may be successfully +fought so long as it is kept confined to the +ground, but once it gets a start in the tree +tops no power on earth can cope with it; no +effort is of the slightest avail. Campers who +leave their fires unextinguished often make +the excuse that they did not believe any damage +could result, as the coals were nearly dead. +Although such might be the case at the hour +of their leaving, in the still air of morning, the +afternoon wind is quite capable of blowing +them into dangerous and destructive life. My +rule has been to insist on the rigorous enforcement +of the regulation requiring expulsion +from the Park in such cases. One or two +expulsions each year serve as healthy warnings, +and these, backed by a system of numerous +and vigilant patrols, have brought about +the particularly good results of which we can +boast. In 1892 a fire on Moose Creek was +sighted from a point near the Lake, and reported +to me that night by wire from the +Lake Hotel. Before the next evening, Captain +Scott was on the spot with his troop, and<a name="Page_394" id="Page_394"></a> +the fire was soon under control. In a few +hours it would have been in the heavy timber +on the shore of Shoshone Lake, and there +is no limit to the damage it might have +wrought.</p> + +<p>As a last heading of my subject I shall +touch on the protection of the game. This +was never seriously attempted until Major +Harris came to the Park, in 1886; but he +attacked it with an earnestness and a fearlessness +that has left a lasting impress. It is +not probable that the Park is the natural home +of bison, elk or deer, yet the last remnant of +the first and great numbers of the last two +are found here. The high altitude, great cold +and extreme depth of snow make it a forbidding +habitat for the ruminants. They remain +here simply because they are protected. Protection +was given by a system of scouting +extended over the best game ranges, and +throughout the season of probable game destruction. +A good many captures were made; +the poachers were turned loose and their property +confiscated; this was all the law allowed. +The depredating element of the community +soon came to care very little for this menace +to their business, for they entered the Park<a name="Page_395" id="Page_395"></a> +with an equipment that was hardly worth +packing in to the post, and, if taken from +them, occasioned but small loss.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="huntingday"></a> + +<img src="images/i016.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="536"> +<p class="caption">A HUNTING DAY.</p></div> + +<p>The accumulation of this sort of property +had become great, and, as I had no proper +storage room for it, I began my work by making +a bonfire of it. A first requisite to successful +work was to become acquainted with +the names, the haunts and the habits of those +whom it was necessary to watch or to capture. +Ed. Wilson was thoroughly familiar with all +this, and many is the lesson I patiently took +from him. He described to me the leaders +among the poachers from the several regions—Cooke, +Henry's Lake, Jackson's Lake and +Gardiner. To begin with the Cooke City +parties, he named to me three as particularly +active and dangerous: these were Van Dyck, +Pendleton and Howell. Van Dyck, he told +me, was at that time trapping beaver near +Soda Butte, but he had not been able to +definitely locate him. He made two trips +there through cold and storm, but to no purpose. +Finally, on his third expedition, he +caught him, as already stated, sleeping in his +bed. His property was destroyed, and he was +held in the guard house awaiting the instruc<a name="Page_396" id="Page_396"></a>tions +of the Secretary of the Interior, which +for some reason were very slow in coming. +At last he was released, and ordered never +again to cross the Park boundary without permission.</p> + +<p>The next year Pendleton made a trip in the +Park in early May, and got out with two +young bison calves, which he was carrying on +pack animals in beer boxes. Of course, they +died before he got them to a place where he +could raise them in safety, and he soon started +back to renew his evil work. He was arrested +and confined, and his case took exactly +the same course as Van Dyck's had taken.</p> + +<p>The last of the trio was Ed. Howell. Knowing +of him and his habits, I kept him as well +under watch as possible. During a trip I +made to the east side of the Park in October, +1893, I saw many old signs of bison in several +localities. Howell having disappeared from +public view for a month or two, I sent Burgess +out in January, 1894, with orders to carefully +scout this country. I indicated to him exactly +where I expected him to find signs of the marauder. +He encountered very severe weather, +and was not able to make a full tour of +the places indicated; but he did report hav<a name="Page_397" id="Page_397"></a>ing +found, in the exact locality I had designated +to him, tracks of a man on <i>skis</i> drawing +a toboggan. These tracks were old and could +not be followed, but they formed a valuable +clue. I next sent to the Soda Butte station +and had a thorough search made near that +place. It was found that the same tracks had +passed over the hill behind the station, going +toward Cooke. Careful inquiry developed the +fact that Howell had come in for provisions +with his equipment, but that he had not +brought any trophies with him. Calculating +the time when he should be due again in +the bison country, I gave Burgess an order +to repeat his trip there, and stay until he +brought back results. He left the Lake +Hotel in a severe storm on March 11th, and +camped the night of the 12th where he had seen +the tracks on his previous visit. Next morning, +when scarcely out of camp, he found a <i>cache</i> +of six bison scalps suspended in a tree. The +<i>ski</i> tracks near by were old, and he was not +able to follow them. He possessed himself of +the spoils and started down Astringent Creek +toward Pelican. When near the latter stream, +he found a lodge, evidently occupied at the +time, and the tracks near it, fresh and distinct,<a name="Page_398" id="Page_398"></a> +pointing to the southward. Soon he heard +shots, and far off in the distance he espied the +culprit in the act of killing more of the game. +The problem then arose as to how he was +to make the capture. With him was only +a single soldier, and the two had for arms +only a .38 caliber revolver. It was certain +that this was Howell, and it was known that +he was a desperate character.</p> + +<p>In giving Burgess his orders, I had told him +that I did not send him to his death—that +I did not want him to take risks or serious +chances; I impressed upon him the fact that, +as far as Howell was concerned, even if times +were hard, the wages of sin had not been +reduced. All this he knew well, but there +was a desperate criminal armed with a rifle; +as for himself, he might as well have been +unarmed. However, fortune favored him, and +soon Howell became so occupied in removing +the scalp from one of his bison that Burgess, +by a swift and silent run, approached within +four or five yards of him undiscovered. It +would have been easy enough to kill him then, +but it was too much like cold-blooded murder +to do so at that range; at 200 or 300 yards it +would have seemed entirely different. How<a name="Page_399" id="Page_399"></a>ell's +rifle was leaning against a buffalo's carcass +a few yards from him. He made a step +toward it, when Burgess told him to stop or he +would shoot. Howell then turned back and +said, "All right, but you would never have got +me if I had seen you sooner." He was found +surrounded by the bodies of seven bison freshly +killed, and, to illustrate more fully the wanton +nature of the man, of the eight scalps brought +in to the post, six were cows and one of the +others was a yearling calf.</p> + +<p>His case went through the same course as +the others, and finally toward the last of April +he was turned loose, with orders to quit the +Park and never return. He, however, is cast +in a different mold from some of the previous +captures, and some time in July he reappeared +with the most brazen and shameless effrontery. +He was reincarcerated, tried, and sentenced +for disobedience of the order of expulsion. +His sentence was thirty days in jail and fifty +dollars fine, and this he now has under appeal. +Insufficient as is Howell's punishment, his +crime has been of more service to the Park +than any other event in its history; it created +the greatest interest throughout the country, +and led to the passage of the Park Protection<a name="Page_400" id="Page_400"></a> +Act, which was signed by the President on +May 7th. A strange coincidence in the cases +of Van Dyck and Howell is that both were +accompanied by their faithful watchdogs, and +neither dog gave a sign of the approach of +the enemy, and both men swore vengeance +on their faithless protectors.</p> + +<p>The preservation of elk, deer, antelope and +the carnivora is assured. Their numbers elsewhere, +their wide distribution within the Park, +their relatively small commercial value, added +to the danger attendant on killing them within +the Park, is a sufficient protection. Moose +and mountain sheep will probably increase for +similar reasons, although they are less generally +distributed and are of greater value to +head hunters. With the bison it is different. +They have entirely disappeared from all other +parts of the country, and they are of sufficient +money value to tempt the cupidity of the +hunters and trappers who surround the Park +on all sides. It is told that a fine bison +head has been sold, delivered in London, for +£200—nearly $1,000 in our money. A taxidermist +would probably be willing to pay +$200 to $500 for such a scalp. Many a hardy +frontiersman, who has no sentiment for their<a name="Page_401" id="Page_401"></a> +preservation and no respect for the law, will +take his chances of capture for such a sum.</p> + +<p>Another animal that is difficult of preservation +is the beaver; the trouble in this case +is entirely due to the ease with which traps +may be set in places where it is impossible to +find them, and the ease with which the pelts +may be packed and carried out. Within the +last four years beaver have increased enormously, +so I feel justified in saying that their +preservation is so far successful.</p> + +<p>For the general protection of the Park there +are stationed within its lines two troops of +cavalry. They are both kept at the Mammoth +Hot Springs for eight months of the +year, and one of them is sent to the Lower +Geyser Basin during the four months of the +tourist season. Small outposts are kept at +Riverside on the west, Snake River on the +south, Soda Butte on the northeast, and Norris +near the center. Besides these a winter +station has been placed in the Hayden Valley, +and summer stations are kept at the Upper +Basin, Thumb, Lake and Cañon. Between +these a constant stream of patrols is kept up, +so that no depredator can do very much damage +without detection. There is allowed but<a name="Page_402" id="Page_402"></a> +one civilian scout, who is overworked and +underpaid. With all this enormous territory +to guard, with all that is beautiful and valuable +to protect, with the last of the bison +to preserve, it would seem that this rich Government +should be able to expend more than a +paltry $900 per year for scouts, and more than +$500 (which it receives for rentals) for the +other needs of the Park.</p> + +<p>There are very few who appreciate the +amount of work done here by the soldiers +in summer and in winter, in cold and in +storms, on foot, on horseback and on snowshoes—and +all without murmur or word of +complaint. Never before was it so well +placed before the public as it was by Mr. +Hough in his <i>Forest and Stream</i> articles summer +before last. Should Congress be stirred +to make a more liberal appropriation for the +purpose of carrying out the provisions of the +act of May 7th, to him, more than to any +other man, will the credit be due.</p> + +<p class="signature2">Geo. S. Anderson.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_15" id="CHAPTER_15"></a>The Yellowstone National Park +Protection Act</h2> + + +<p>On May 7, 1894, President Cleveland approved an Act +"to protect the birds and animals in Yellowstone National +Park, and to punish crimes in said Park, and for +other purposes."</p> + +<p>This law, as finally enacted, owed much to the efforts +and labor of members of the Boone and Crockett Club, +who for many years had persistently struggled to induce +Congress to pass such necessary legislation. The final +triumph is a matter of congratulation to every sportsman +interested in the protection of game, and fulfills one of +the great objects sought to be attained by the foundation +of the Club. While the statute, in many of its details, +could readily be improved, it is still, in its general features, +sufficient to serve the purposes of its enactment. +To those not conversant with the subject, the statement +may seem astonishing, that from the establishment of the +Park in 1872 to the passage of the Act in 1894 no law +protecting either the Park, the animals or the visitors was +operative within the Yellowstone Park—a region containing +about 3,500 square miles, and larger than the States +of Delaware and Rhode Island. This condition of affairs +was frequently brought to the notice of the National +Legislature, and in 1887 their attention was called to +it by a startling episode. A member of Congress, Mr.<a name="Page_404" id="Page_404"></a> +Lacey, of Iowa, was a passenger in a stage which was +"held up" in the Park and robbed. The highwaymen +were afterward apprehended, but escaped the punishment +suited to their crime because of the great doubt existing +as to whether any law was applicable. As to game +offenses, regulations were powerless for prevention in +the absence of any penalties by law to enforce them.</p> + +<p>The explanation of this anomalous situation is to be +sought in the circumstances under which the Park had +been set apart. The eminent scientists, who interested +themselves in this important object, were surrounded +with difficulties. The vastness of the tract proposed to +be included, the question of expense, the selfish interests +opposing the measure, were obstacles not easy to overcome. +Congress was told, "Give us the Park; nothing +more is needed than to reserve the land from public sale +or settlement." Doubtless the remoteness and isolation +of the region might have been thought, at the time, sufficient +to insure protection. But it was the wonderful +scenery and extraordinary objects of interest in the Park +which were then thought of; the forests and the game +did not enter much into the consideration of the founders. +And so Congress passed the Act of 1872, merely +defining the limits of the Park and committing it to the +keeping of the Department of the Interior, which was +empowered to make rules and regulations for its control.</p> + +<p>A great work was accomplished when Congress was +persuaded to forever dedicate this marvelous region as a +National Park, for the benefit of the entire country; and +it was hoped and expected that Congress would, in time, +supplement the organizing Act by the needful additional +legislation. But this was not to be had for many years<a name="Page_405" id="Page_405"></a> +to come. For some time after the year 1872, the reservation +was occasionally visited by a few adventurous +spirits or Government parties on exploring expeditions. +During that period it became the refuge of the large +game which had gradually receded from the lower country +before the advance of settlement and railroads. The +abundance of game astonished all who beheld it. Bears, +deer, elk, sheep, moose, antelope, buffalo, wolverines and +many other kinds of wild beasts were collected within an +area which afforded peculiar advantages to each and all. +Nowhere else could such a gathering of game be found +in one locality. It should be remembered that those +who visited the Park in the early days we have mentioned +confined their investigations to a limited portion +of it. The great winter ranges and breeding grounds +were almost unknown. During this period, game killing +was so slight and the supply so great that restrictions, by +those exercising a very uncertain authority in the reservation, +were hardly pretended to be enforced.</p> + +<p>But from about the year 1878 the depredations on the +game of the Park attained alarming proportions. The +number of visitors had largely increased. The skin +hunter and the record hunter—twin brothers in iniquity—appeared +on the scene, and their number grew from +year to year. It was then that regulations and prohibitions +were promulgated from the Department of the Interior, +but they were known to contain only vain threats, +which could be defied with impunity. And so the slaughter +continued, and likewise other depredations. Learned +associations, sportsmen's associations, visitors of all lands, +showered petitions upon Congress to pass some protective +law. All that Congress did, however, was in 1883 to<a name="Page_406" id="Page_406"></a> +confer authority for the use of troops in the Park. This +was something, and the effect of their presence was very +beneficial, and insured the only protection the Park had +until the present time. Congress seemed affected with +an apathy which no appeals could change. The result +was non-action.</p> + +<p>Some Congressmen thought they were justified in declining +to take any interest in the matter, because few, if +any, of their constituents had ever visited the Park. +Others thought that it should be a Wyoming or Montana +affair, and should be turned over to one or the other of +those then territories. A few seemed to labor under +the impression that the Park was nothing but a private +pleasure ground, resorted to by the wealthy class, and +that it was no part of the Constitutional functions of a +Republican Government to afford security to wild animals, +or to incur any expense therefor. These narrow +views were not shared by most of the principal men in +Congress; among these we had many staunch friends, +including especially several who held seats in the Senate. +Chief among them was Senator Vest, of Missouri, +who at all times was found ready to do everything in +his power to promote the welfare of the Park. Senator +Manderson, of Nebraska, and many others were quite as +willing. It was largely due to the gentlemen we have +named that the Senate, as a body, was imbued with their +views, and on all occasions recognized the important +national objects to be attained by the Park, not only as a +great game preserve, but also as a great forest reservation +of the highest economic importance.</p> + +<p>With the assistance of some of the present members of +the Boone and Crockett Club, a bill was framed which<a name="Page_407" id="Page_407"></a> +afforded in its provisions ample protection to the Park, +while it added largely to its area on the south and on +the east, embracing the great breeding grounds of the +elk. This bill was introduced by Senator Vest. But +new difficulties now arose, more serious than any hitherto +encountered. By the completion of the Northern Pacific +Railroad a large influx of travel set in toward the Park. +It was now thought money was to be made there. Railroads +through it were talked about. Mines, situated +near its northern border, were said to contain untold +wealth, needing only a railroad for their development. +A mining camp, called Cooke City, was started, and it +was urged that a railroad could reach it only by going +through the Park. Corporate influences made themselves +felt. The bill introduced by Senator Vest again +and again, in session after session, passed the Senate. +The promoters of a railroad through the Park thought +they saw their opportunity. Afraid to launch their +scheme of spoliation before Congress as an independent +measure, they sought to attach it as a rider to the Park +bill. They reasoned that those who desired the passage +of that bill regarded it as so important that they would +be willing to consent to its carrying a railroad rather +than see all legislation on the subject dropped or defeated. +The plan was well conceived, but failed of +execution. The friends of the bill recognized that it +was wiser to leave the Park unprotected than to consent +to what would be its destruction. They recognized that, +once railroads were allowed within the Park, it would be +a reservation only in name, and that before long the +forests and the game would both disappear. They therefore +refused the bait held out to them by the railroad<a name="Page_408" id="Page_408"></a> +promoters, who thereafter always blocked the passage of +the Park bill. In return they were always defeated in +their own scheme. The House Committee having the +protection bill in charge never failed to burden it with +the railroad right of way whenever it came to them, +blandly ignoring the evident fact that a railroad was not +an appropriate nor a relevant feature to a law for the +protection of the Park. And so it happened that the bill +which had been the child of affection became an object +of dread, and was denounced as bitterly as it had before +been advocated by its original friends. It was thought +better to have it die on the calendar than to take the +risk of its adoption by the House of Representatives +with the obnoxious amendment incorporated by the +committee.</p> + +<p>Apart from that amendment, it was feared the bill +would not only encounter an opposition instigated by +pecuniary interests, but might itself fail to call to its support +any counteracting influence. Those who opposed +the railroad, and notably the members of the Boone and +Crockett Club, who invariably appeared before the Public +Lands Committee to argue against it, were at the +very least stigmatized as "sentimentalists," who impeded +material progress—as busybodies, who, needing nothing +themselves, interfered to prevent other people from +obtaining what was necessary and beneficial to commerce. +With practical legislators such animadversions +are frequently not lacking in force, for nothing more +incurs their contempt than a measure which has not +what they call a <i>practical object</i>, by which they mean a +<i>moneyed object</i>. While throughout the country there +was considerable general interest taken in the preserva<a name="Page_409" id="Page_409"></a>tion +of the Park, such influence was not sufficiently concentrated +to make itself felt by Congress. The Park +was everybody's affair, and in the House of Representatives +no one could be found to take any special interest +in it. And so the fight went on from year to year. In +Congress after Congress the bill was passed in the +Senate, and emerged from the House Committee on Public +Lands weighted down by the burden of the railroad. +Secretary after Secretary of the Interior protested against +this feature of the bill, and so did every officer of the +Government who had any part in the administration or +exploration of the Park. But their protests were without +effect on the committee, which in those days seemed +to regard the railroad as the most important feature of +the bill.</p> + +<p>It was clearly shown that the railroad would not only +be most harmful to the Park, but could serve no useful +purpose; for it was quite possible for a railroad to reach +the mines without touching the Park, whereas the projected +route cut through the Park for a distance of some +fifty miles. The public press throughout the country +was almost unanimous in denouncing the threatened +invasion of the reservation. But the railroad in interest +had a strong lobby at work, and many of the inhabitants +in the territories and States nearest the Park +showed the most selfish indifference to its preservation, +and a greedy desire to plunder it. The railroad lobbyists +were very active. They saw the necessity of trying to +avoid openly outraging public opinion. Accordingly +they changed the bill, so that, instead of conferring a +right of way through the Park, it segregated and threw +out of the reservation that portion through which the<a name="Page_410" id="Page_410"></a> +railroad was to go. This was supposed to be a concession +to public sentiment; but it must have been thought +that the public were very easily deceived, for there was +really no concession at all, save to the railroad interests. +Instead of a <i>right of way</i> through a portion of the Park, +they now asked, and were offered by the committee, +the land itself. The Committee of the House proposed +that this land should be thrown out of the Park, and +any and all railroads be allowed to scramble for it. +The area thus doomed is situated north of the Yellowstone +River, and constitutes one of the most attractive +portions of the Park. It includes the only great winter +range of the elk. In the winter there can be seen there +some 5,000 animals, and no one who has traveled over +this region in summer has failed to observe the enormous +number of shed horns, showing how extensively the +range is resorted to by this noble animal. Here too can +be found a large band of antelope at all times, numbering +about 500, and a smaller, but considerable, band of +mountain sheep.</p> + +<p>The friends of the Park succeeded in stopping the +proposed railroad legislation, but they could accomplish +nothing else in Congress. They had more success with +another branch of the Government. There was a statute +authorizing the President to set apart any part of the +public domain as a forest reservation. Taking advantage +of this, certain members of the Boone and Crockett +Club saw an opportunity of substantially obtaining the +enlargement of the Park which they had been vainly endeavoring +to obtain from Congress. They laid the matter +before General Noble, then Secretary of the Interior. +He recommended to President Harrison that the tract in<a name="Page_411" id="Page_411"></a> +question should be constituted a forest reserve. This +was done. In 1891 the President issued a proclamation, +establishing the Yellowstone Park Forest Reserve. It +embraced some 1,800 square miles, abutting on the east +and south boundaries of the Park. The Secretary afterward +had the same regulations extended to the Reserve +as had been put in operation in the Park. This +important action was followed by further proclamations, +instituting other forest reservations in different +sections of the country. The Executive and its representative, +the Department of the Interior, have at all +times been most sympathetic and helpful in the movement +for forest and game preservation. They have +sternly resisted all assaults upon the Park.</p> + +<p>The organization of the Boone and Crockett Club had +been a great step toward Park protection. Its membership +included those who had shown most interest in +obtaining legislation. One of the main objects of the +society was the preservation of the game and the forests. +It brought together a body of men whose motives were +entirely disinterested, and who were able to make their +influence felt. To their efforts must be largely attributed +the success which was ultimately attained. But that success +might have been indefinitely deferred had not Congress +been awakened to its duty by an event as shocking +as it was unlooked for.</p> + +<p>For years one of the cherished objects of the Park had +been the preservation of perhaps the only surviving band +of buffalo. It had sought refuge in the mountains. It +was known to be on the increase and it was supposed +that it would remain unmolested. Its number had been +estimated as high as 500. Its habitat was a wild and<a name="Page_412" id="Page_412"></a> +rugged country, affording a seemingly secure asylum. +For a long time these buffalo remained comparatively +safe. In the summer it would have been of no use to +slaughter them for their heads and hides. In the winter +the snow was so deep and their haunts so remote as to +render it well nigh impossible to pack heads or hides +out to a market. But a desperate man was found to +take desperate chances. The trouble came to the Park +from the mining camp of Cooke. A notorious poacher +named Howell made it his headquarters. Its proximity +to the northeast boundary of the Park made it a +convenient point from which to conduct his raids and to +which he might convey his booty. If he killed even a +single buffalo, and safely packed out of the Park its head +or hide, he was sure of realizing a large sum. If he was +captured while making the attempt, he knew he was safe +from punishment, and that there was no penalty, even if +there was an offense. A less lawless man might have +indulged a flexible conscience with the idea that, as there +was no punishment, there was no crime. A similar view +of ethics had been indulged in by a prominent member +of the gospel, who had killed game in the Park, and +sought extenuation on the ground that he had not violated +any law. But Howell was not a man who sought +to justify his actions; it was sufficient for him that he +incurred no risk. The time he selected for his deed of +destruction he thought the most propitious for covering +up his tracks. His operations were conducted in the +most tempestuous weather in that most tempestuous +month, March, in the year 1894. The snow then was +deepest, and Howell felt there would be little chance of +interference by scouting or other parties. Eluding the<a name="Page_413" id="Page_413"></a> +guard stationed in the northern portion of the Park, on +stormy nights, he stole into the Park and built a lodge in +the locality where the buffalo wintered. In it he stored +his supplies, which he had conveyed on a toboggan. He +traveled on <i>skis</i>, the Norwegian snowshoes, ten feet +long, which are generally used in the Northwestern +country. This enabled him to traverse the roughest +mountain range with ease and great rapidity, even in +the deepest snow. Once established, the killing was an +easy matter. He had only to find the buffalo where the +snow was deep. The ponderous, unwieldy animals had +small chance of escape from his pursuit. His quarry +was soon located, and he needed no assistance to make a +surround; for, while the frightened, confused beasts were +plunging in the snow, in a vain attempt to extricate +themselves, the butcher glided swiftly around them on +his snowshoes, approaching as close as he chose. With +his rapid-firing gun he slaughtered them as easily as if +they had been cattle in a corral. How many he killed +will never be known. The remains of many of his victims +will never be found.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:700px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="snows"></a> + +<img src="images/i017.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="700" height="387"> +<p class="caption">IN YELLOWSTONE PARK SNOWS.</p></div> + + +<p>But while the ruffian was busiest in his bloody work, +a man was speeding over the snow toward him from the +south. He too was on <i>skis</i>. He too was a mountain man, +who thought as little of the obstacles before him as Howell +did. But the object of his trip was not the buffalo, but +Howell. It was human game he was pursuing. Howell +had not covered up his tracks as well as he thought. +The trailer had struck a trail which he never left till it +brought him to the object of his pursuit. This man was +Burgess, the Yellowstone Park scout. He had learned +of Howell's presence in the Park, and was sent out, with<a name="Page_414" id="Page_414"></a> +the intention of apprehending him, by the energetic superintendent, +Captain Anderson. He proceeded on his +course as swiftly as a howling wind would permit, when +he was surprised by seeing suspended from some trees +six buffalo scalps. He now felt that he was in close +vicinity to the man he was hunting, and that his business +had become a serious one. He knew the man who had +done that deed was prepared to resist and commit a +greater crime. But this did not deter him and he again +took the trail. He had proceeded only a short distance +when he heard six shots. Hastening up a hill, he saw +Howell engaged in butchering five buffalo, the victims of +the six shots. Howell's gun was resting on the body of +one of the slain animals, a few feet away from where he +was engaged in removing a scalp from another of the +bison. So occupied was he in his work that he did not +perceive the scout, who had emerged in plain view, and +who silently glided to the weapon, and, securing it, had +Howell at his mercy. The demand to throw up his +hands was the first intimation Howell had that he was +not alone in the buffalo country. It must have been +difficult for the scout at that moment not to forget that +ours is a Government of law, and to refrain from making +as summary an end of Howell as Howell had made of +the buffalo.</p> + +<p>The poacher accepted his capture with equanimity, +casually remarking that if he had seen Burgess first he +never would have been captured. He was conveyed to +the post headquarters. As soon as the Secretary of the +Interior heard of his arrest, he ordered his discharge, as +there was no law by which he could be detained or otherwise +punished. Howell was proud of his achievement<a name="Page_415" id="Page_415"></a> +and of the notoriety it gave him, boasting that he had +killed altogether eighty of the bison. This statement +may only have been made for the purpose of magnifying +his crime and so enhancing his importance. It may, +however, be true. Besides those actually known to have +been slaughtered by him, the remains of thirteen other +bison, it is said, have been found in the Park. It is +probable they were all killed by him.</p> + +<p>When the intelligence of what had happened reached +the country, much indignation was manifested. The +public, which after all did have a vague sense of pride in +the Park, and a rather loose wish to see it cared for, was +shocked and surprised to discover that no law existed by +which the offense could be reached. They were aroused +to the knowledge that the Park was the only portion of +our domain uncontrolled by law. The Boone and Crockett +Club took prompt advantage of this awakened feeling, +and redoubled its efforts to secure action by the National +Legislature. Congress had long been deaf to the +appeals of the few individuals who, year after year, +endeavored to obtain a law; but now, at last, they +realized that some action was really needed if they +desired to save anything in the Park. Mr. Lacey, of +Iowa, the gentleman whom we have mentioned as having +had a practical experience of the condition of affairs in +the Park, was naturally the first to take hold of the +opportunity which public opinion afforded. He willingly +adopted the chief jurisdictional and police features contained +in the Park bill to which we have so frequently +referred as repeatedly passing the Senate. He readily +acquiesced in all the amendments which were proposed +by members of the Boone and Crockett Club. The Club<a name="Page_416" id="Page_416"></a> +pushed the matter vigorously. The aid of many prominent +members of the House of Representatives was enlisted. +Before the hostile railroad party knew of the +movement, the bill was presented to the House, unanimous +consent for its consideration obtained, and it was +passed. In the Senate the bill was among its friends, +and Senator Vest was again instrumental in securing its +passage. The promoters of the railroad scheme thought +it more prudent not to meddle with the bill in the +Senate, as they would have been certain to have encountered +defeat.</p> + +<p>The Act provides penalties and the means of enforcing +them, and thus secures adequate protection. It +makes the violation of any rule or regulation of the +Secretary of the Interior a misdemeanor. It prohibits +the killing or capture of game, or the taking of fish in an +unlawful manner. It forbids transportation of game, +and for the violation of the Act or regulations it imposes +a fine not to exceed $1,000, or imprisonment not to +exceed two years, or both. It also confiscates the traps, +guns and means of transport of persons engaged in killing +or capturing game. Finally a local magistrate is +appointed, with jurisdiction to try all offenders violating +the law governing the Park, and it specifies the jurisdiction +over felonies committed in the Park. By a happy +coincidence the new system was inaugurated by the trial +and conviction of the first offender put on trial, and it +was Howell who was the first prisoner in the dock. He +had returned to the Park after the passage of the law, +and was tried and convicted of violating the order of the +Secretary of the Interior, by which he was expelled after +he had slaughtered the buffalo. This was retributive<a name="Page_417" id="Page_417"></a> +justice indeed. The Club had desired that the law +should be extended by Congress over the Yellowstone +Park Forest Reserve, but legal difficulties were encountered, +so that this protection had to be deferred. It is to +be hoped that in the near future this important adjunct +to the Park may have the same law applied to it.</p> + +<p>The Park is now on a solid foundation, and all that +is necessary for its future welfare is the prevention of +adverse legislation cutting down its limits or authorizing +railroads within it. In the winter of 1894-95 the +railroad scheme, now disguised under the form of a +bill to regulate the boundaries of the Park, came up +again. This was the old segregation plan. It aimed +not only to cut off from the Park that valuable portion +already described, and embracing 367 square miles north +of the Yellowstone, but also to make extensive cuts in +the Forest Reserve for railroad and other purposes, +amounting to 640 square miles. This spoliation was not +permitted. Congress seemed at last to be determined to +support the Park intact, and the Committee of the Fifty-fourth +Congress in the House having the Park legislation +in charge manifested this disposition by adverse reports +on all the bills to authorize railroads and on the segregation +bill as well.</p> + +<p>The present boundaries only need marking on the +ground—a mere matter of departmental action. There +is no need of legislation on the subject. The boundaries, +especially on the north, afford such natural features +as constitute the best possible barrier to prevent depredation +from without, and to insure the retention of the +game within, the Park. Notwithstanding the inadequacy +of the protection in former years, the game has increased<a name="Page_418" id="Page_418"></a> +largely, especially since the military occupation. Competent +authority has estimated the number of elk as high +as 20,000, though this is probably too large a figure. +Moose are frequently encountered. Mountain sheep and +antelope are found in goodly numbers. It is doubtful +now whether there are over 200 buffalo left. Bears of +the different varieties are very plentiful and deer are also +quite abundant. The animals thoroughly appreciate +their security. They have largely lost their fear of man. +Antelope and sheep can be seen in the vicinity of the +stage roads, and are not disturbed by constant travel. +Wild geese, ducks and other birds refuse to rise from the +water near which men pass.</p> + +<p>But bears show the most indifference for human presence. +Attracted by the food obtained, they frequent the +neighborhood of the hotels in the Park. The writer of +these notes, together with some companions, had a good +opportunity, in the latter part of August, 1894, to observe +how bold and careless these generally wary animals may +become if not hunted.</p> + +<p>When we reached the Lake Hotel, the clerk asked us if +we wished to see a bear, as he could show us one after we +had finished dinner. We went with him to a spot some +200 feet back of the hotel, where refuse was deposited. +It was then a little after sunset. We waited some moments, +when the clerk, taking his watch out of his pocket +said, "It is strange he has not come down; he is now a +little overdue." Before he had replaced his watch, he +exclaimed, "Here he comes now," and we saw descending +slowly from a hill close by a very large black bear. +The bear approached us, when I said to the clerk, "Had +not we better get behind the timber? He will be fright<a name="Page_419" id="Page_419"></a>ened +off should he see us." He answered, "No, he will +not be frightened in the least," and continued to converse +with us in a loud voice. We were then standing in +the open close by a swill heap and the bear was coming +toward us, there being no timber intervening. We did +not move, but continued talking. The bear came up to +us without hesitation, diverging slightly from his direct +route to the swill heap so as to approach nearer to where +we were. He surveyed us leisurely, with his nose in the +air, got our scent, and, seeming content that we were +only harmless human beings, turned slowly away and +went to the refuse, where he proceeded to make a meal. +We watched him for quite a while, when a large wagon +passing along the road nigh to where we stood, the bear +stopped feeding and turned toward the hotel in the +direction in which the wagon was traveling. Our guide +exclaimed, "He has gone to visit the pig sty," and in a +little while we were satisfied this was so by hearing a +loud outcry of "b'ar, b'ar," which we afterward found +proceeded from a Chinaman, one of whose special duties +it was to keep bears out of the pig sty.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:600px;padding-bottom:.5em;padding-top:.25em;"> +<a name="shore"></a> + +<img src="images/i018.jpg" border="1" alt="" title="" width="600" height="700"> +<p class="caption">ON THE SHORE OF YELLOWSTONE LAKE.</p></div> + +<p>After the departure of the black bear we retraced our +steps, but before getting to the hotel I suggested to one +of my companions, Del. Hay, that if we returned to the +refuse pile we might see another bear. We accordingly +went back on the trail to within a few yards of where we +stood before. When we stopped we heard, in the timber +near by, a great noise, as if dead pine branches were +being smashed, and there emerged into the open a large +grizzly. Although he was not quite so familiar as the +black bear, he showed no hesitation, but walked straight +toward us and the object of his visit—the swill. Before<a name="Page_420" id="Page_420"></a> +reaching his destination, however, he stopped and squatted +on his haunches, calmly surveying the scene before +him. The reason why he stopped became at once apparent. +From the same hill down which the black bear +had come we saw another grizzly, larger than the first, +moving toward us at a rapid gait, in fact, on a lope, +while the first grizzly regarded him with a look not +altogether friendly or cordial. The second bear did not +stop an instant until he reached the swill heap, where he +proceeded to devour everything in sight, without any regard +to us or to his fellow squatted near by. The latter +apparently had had some experience on a former occasion +which he was not desirous of repeating.</p> + +<p>Three men coming through the timber toward us made +a considerable racket, and the two bears moved off at no +rapid gait in opposite directions; but they went only a +short way. Until we left the spot we could see them on +the edge of the timber, looking toward us, and, no doubt, +waiting for more quiet before partaking of the delights +before them. It was not easy to realize the scene before +us was actual. The dim twilight, the huge forms of the +bears pacing to and fro through the whitened dead timber, +made it appear the creation of a disordered fancy. +It did not seem natural to be in close proximity with +animals esteemed so ferocious, at liberty in their native +wilds, with no desire to attack them and with no disposition +on their part to attack us. When the three men +joined us and were talking about the bears, one of them +shouted, "Here come two more," and before we could +realize it we saw two good-sized cinnamons at the feast. +They paid no attention whatever to us, but were entirely +absorbed in finishing up what the other bears had left.<a name="Page_421" id="Page_421"></a> +By this time it was fast becoming dark and we returned +to the hotel. I should have said that we measured the +distance from the nearest point from the black bear to +where we stood, and found it to be exactly twenty-one +feet. The other bears were but a few yards further.</p> + +<p>When we returned to the house we entertained our +friends with an account of what we had seen, and had +there not been many eye-witnesses we probably would +have been entirely disbelieved.<a name="FNanchor_14" id="FNanchor_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> As we were narrating +our story a man came into the room and said, "If you +want some fun, come outside; we have a bear up a tree." +We went outside of the hotel, and not over forty feet +from it found a black bear in a pine tree. It seems that +the wagon, already mentioned, had been stopped at the +pine tree and the horses had been taken out. The +owner, returning to his wagon, found the bear in it, and +this was the explanation why the bear had so suddenly +taken to the tree.</p> + +<p>The animal was considerably smaller than the one we +had seen earlier; in fact, it was not more than half as +large, but still full grown. Quite a number of packers +and teamsters stood about, amusing themselves by making +the bear climb higher, till at last one of them asked +our driver, Jim McMasters, why he did not climb the<a name="Page_422" id="Page_422"></a> +tree and shake the bear out. It was quite dark, and McMasters +replied that he would not mind doing so if there +were enough daylight for him to see. His companions +continuing to banter him, he finally said, "I believe I'll +go up anyhow," and up he went, climbing, however—instead +of the tree the bear had ascended—a companion +tree which grew alongside of the other, the trunks of +the two not being more than a foot or so apart and the +branches interlaced. We soon lost sight of McMasters +and of the bear also; for, as Jim climbed the bear would +climb too, until at last they both had reached the top of +their respective perches, when we heard Jim cry out, +"Boys, he's got to come down; I can reach him." With +that he proceeded to break off a small branch of his +tree, and we could hear him whack the bear with it, and +also could hear the bear remonstrating with a very unpleasant +voice, at times approaching a roar. But at last +the bear seemed to have made up his mind that it was +better to come down than stay up and be whacked with +a pine branch, so down he came, but not with any great +rapidity, stopping at every resting place, until Jim came +down too and gave him a little persuading.</p> + +<p>We could now see the action, but its dangerous features +were lost sight of in its amusing ones. Jim had climbed +into the tree down which the bear was descending, and +when he was not persuading the bear he was pleading +with us somewhat as follows: "Now, boys, don't throw +up here, and don't none of you hit him until he gets +down. If he should make up his mind to come up again +he'd clean me out, sure." After each speech of this sort +he would move down to where the bear was and apply +his branch, whereupon both the man and the animal<a name="Page_423" id="Page_423"></a> +would descend a few pegs lower. At last the bear was +almost near the ground. We all formed a circle around +the tree, prepared to give both man and beast a reception +when they should alight. The beast came first, and +every fellow who had anything in the way of wood in his +hand gave the bear a blow or two as a warning not to return +to the wagon again. Bruin made off into the timber +with great precipitancy. Jim, when he got down, +did not seem to think that he had done anything more +than if the bear had been a "possum," which he had +shaken out of the tree.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14" id="Footnote_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> Colonel John Hay, of Washington, was one of the spectators +of this curious scene. Captain Albrecht Heese, of the German +Embassy, tells us that in July, 1895, while stopping at the Lake +Hotel, he saw a very large bear eating out of a trough in the daytime +while a number of tourists were present; and that the bear was +finally chased away from the trough by a cow. At the Upper Geyser +Basin a bear was domiciled in the hotel; it took food from the hands +of the hotel keeper, following him around like a dog.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_16" id="CHAPTER_16"></a>Head-Measurements of the Trophies at the +Madison Square Garden Sportsmen's +Exhibition</h2> + + +<p>During the week beginning May 14, 1895, there +was held in Madison Square Garden, New York, a +Sportsmen's Exhibition. There was a fair exhibit of +heads, horns and skins, for which the credit largely +belongs to Frederick S. Webster, the taxidermist.</p> + +<p>At the request of the managers of the Exhibition, +three of the members of the Boone and Crockett Club—Messrs. +Theodore Roosevelt, George Bird Grinnell and +Archibald Rogers—were appointed a Committee on Measurements. +There were heads and skins of every kind of +North American big game. Many of them were exhibited +by amateur sportsmen, including various members +of the Boone and Crockett Club, while many others +were exhibited by furriers and taxidermists.</p> + +<p>Some of the measurements are worth recording. For +convenience we tabulate, in the case of each animal, the +measurements of the specimens exhibited by amateur +sportsmen who themselves shot the animals. For purposes +of comparison we add the measurements of a few +big heads exhibited by taxidermists or furriers; also for +purposes of comparison we quote the figures given in<a name="Page_425" id="Page_425"></a> +two works published with special reference to the question +of horn measurements. One is the "Catalogue and +Notes of the American Hunting Trophies Exhibition" at +London in 1887. The moving spirit in this exhibition +was Mr. E. M. Buxton, who was assisted by all the most +noted English sportsmen who had shot in America. The +result was a noteworthy collection of trophies, almost all +of which belonged to animals shot by the exhibitors +themselves. Very few Americans took part in the exhibition, +though several did so, one of the two finest moose +heads being exhibited by an American sportsman.</p> + +<p>The other big game book quoted is Rowland Ward's +"Measurements," published in London in 1892. This is +a very valuable compilation of authentic records of horn +measurements gathered from many different sources. In +many cases it quotes from Mr. Buxton's catalogue. The +largest elk head, for instance, given by Ward is the one +mentioned in the Buxton catalogue. But in most instances +the top measurements given by Ward stand +above the top measurements given in the catalogue, +because the latter, as already said, contains only a +record of the trophies of amateur sportsmen, whereas +many of Ward's best measurements are from museum +specimens, or from picked heads obtained from furriers +or taxidermists, who chose the best out of those presented +by many hundreds of professional hunters.</p> + +<p>At the Madison Square exhibition there were numerous +bear skins, polar, grizzly and black, submitted by +men who had shot them. There were a few wolf and +cougar skins and one peccary head; but there was no +satisfactory way of making measurements of any of +these. The peccary's head, which was submitted by Mr.<a name="Page_426" id="Page_426"></a> +Roosevelt, of course, had the tusks in the skull, so that it +was not possible to measure them; for the same reason +it was not possible to measure the skulls which were in +the heads of the bear, wolf and cougar skins exhibited by +Mr. Roosevelt.</p> + +<p>There were few Oregon blacktail deer heads exhibited, +and these were not large. The one exhibited by Mr. +Roosevelt, for instance, had horns 21 inches in length, +4 inches in girth and 17 inches in spread.</p> + +<p>In measuring most horns it is comparatively easy to +get some relative idea of the size of the heads by giving +simply the girth and length. The spread is often given +also; but this is not a good measurement, as a rule, +because, in mounting the head, it is very easy to increase +the spread; and, moreover, even where the spread is +natural, it may be excessive and out of proportion to the +length of the horns, in which case it amounts to a deformity. +The length is in every case measured from the +butt to the tip along the outside curve of the horn. The +girth is given at the butt in the case of buffalo, sheep, +goat and antelope; but in the case of deer it is given at the +narrowest part of the horn, above the first tine; in elk this +narrowest part comes between the bay and tray points; +in blacktail and whitetail deer it comes above the "dog-killer" +points, and below the main fork in the horn. +Even in the case of elk, deer, sheep and buffalo the +measurements of length and girth do not always indicate +how fine a head is, although they generally give at least +an approximate idea. The symmetry of the head cannot +be indicated by these measurements. In elk and deer +heads, extra points, though sometimes mere deformities, +yet when large and symmetrical add greatly to the<a name="Page_427" id="Page_427"></a> +appearance and value of the head, making it heavier and +grander in every way, and being a proof of great strength +and vitality of the animal and of the horn itself. In consequence, +although the measurements of length and girth +generally afford a good test of the relative worth of +buffalo, elk, sheep and deer heads, it is not by any means +an infallible test.</p> + +<p>With moose and caribou heads the test of mere length +and girth is of far less value; for many of them have +such extraordinary antlers that the measurements of +length and girth mean but little, and give hardly any +idea of the weight and beauty of the antlers. With +moose a better idea of these qualities can be obtained by +measuring the extreme breadth of the palmation, and the +extreme length from the tip of the brow point backward +in each horn. Caribou horns are often of such fantastic +shape that the actual measurements, taken in any ordinary +way, give but a very imperfect idea of the value of +the trophies. Very long horns are sure to be fine specimens, +and yet they may not be nearly as fine as those +which are much shorter, but more branched, and with the +branches longer, broader and heavier, and at the same +time more beautiful. Thus, at the Madison Square Garden, +C. G. Gunther's Sons, the furriers, exhibited one +caribou with antlers 50 inches long, of the barren ground +type, with 43 points. These horns were very slender, +and would not have weighed more than a third as much +as an enormous pair belonging to a woodland caribou, +which were some 10 inches shorter in extreme length, +and with rather fewer points, but were more massive +in every way, the beam being far larger, and all of the +tines being palmated to a really extraordinary extent.<a name="Page_428" id="Page_428"></a></p> + + +<h3><a name="TABULATED_SERIES" id="TABULATED_SERIES"></a><i>TABULATED SERIES</i></h3> + +<p class="center">With name of owner, and locality and date of capture.</p> + + +<h4>BISON BULL.</h4> + +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="95%" summary="Bison Bull Head Trophy Measurements"> +<tr><th colspan="2"> </th><th>Girth.</th><th>Length.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="6%">1.</td> +<td width="70%">P. Liebinger, Western Montana, '93</td> +<td width="12%">12-1/2</td> +<td width="12%">19</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="10%">2.</td> +<td>Theodore Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Sept., '83</td> +<td>12-3/4</td> +<td>14</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="10%">3.</td> +<td>Theodore Roosevelt, S. W. Montana, Sept., '89</td> +<td>12-1/2</td> +<td>17-1/2</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="afterchart">No. 2 was an old stub-horn bull, the animal being bigger in body +than No. 3, which, like No. 1, was a bull in the prime of life.</p> + +<p>F. Sauter, the taxidermist, exhibited a head killed in +Montana in 1894, which measured 14 inches in girth +and 18 inches in length.</p> + +<p>In Ward's book the horns of the biggest bison given +measure 15 inches in girth and 20-7/8 inches in length.</p> + + +<h4>BIG-HORN SHEEP.</h4> + +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="95%" summary="Big-Horn Sheep Head Trophy Measurements"> +<tr><th colspan="2"> </th><th>Girth.</th><th>Length.</th><th>Spread.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="6%">4.</td> +<td width="58%">Geo. H. Gould, Lower Cal., Dec., '94</td> +<td width="12%">16-1/4</td> +<td width="12%">42-1/2</td> +<td width="12%">25-3/4</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">5.</td> +<td>G. O. Shields, Ashnola River, B. C.</td> +<td>16-1/4</td> +<td>37-3/4</td> +<td>22-1/2</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">6.</td> +<td>Arch. Rogers, N. W. Wyoming</td> +<td>16</td> +<td>34</td> +<td>17</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">7.</td> +<td>Arch. Rogers, N. W. Wyoming</td> +<td>15-1/2</td> +<td>33-1/2</td> +<td>23</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">8.</td> +<td> T. Roosevelt, Little Mo. River, N. D.</td> +<td>16</td> +<td>29-1/2</td> +<td>18-1/2</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="afterchart">No. 4 had the tip of one horn broken; it is on the whole the finest +head of which we have any record.</p> + +<p class="afterchart">No. 5 was a very heavy head, the horns huge and with blunted tips.</p> + +<p>A head was exhibited by C. G. Gunther's Sons which +measured 17-3/4 inches in girth, although it was but 33-1/2 +inches in length.</p> + +<p>In Buxton's catalogue the three biggest rams exhibited +by English sportsmen had horns which measured respectively, +in girth and length, 15-3/4 and 39 inches, 16-3/8 and +38-1/4 inches, and 16-1/2 and 31 inches.</p> + +<p>In Ward's catalogue the biggest specimen given had<a name="Page_429" id="Page_429"></a> +horns which were 17-1/4 inches in girth and 41 inches +in length.</p> + + +<h4>WHITE GOAT.</h4> +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="95%" summary="White Goat Head Trophy Measurements"> +<tr><th colspan="2"> </th><th>Girth.</th><th>Length.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="6%">9.</td> +<td width="70%">Walter James, Swift Current River, Mont., '92</td> +<td width="12%">5-3/4</td> +<td width="12%">10-1/2</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="10%">10.</td> +<td>T. Roosevelt, Big Hole Basin, Mont., Aug., '89</td> +<td>5-1/16</td> +<td>9-1/16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="10%">11.</td> +<td>Theodore Roosevelt, Heron, Mont., Sept., '86</td> +<td>5</td> +<td>9-3/4</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="afterchart">No. 11 was a female; as the horns of the female white goat +always are, these horns were a little longer and slenderer than those +of No. 10, which was a big-bodied buck.</p> + +<p>In Buxton's catalogue the biggest horns given were 5 +inches in girth and 8-1/4 inches in length. The two biggest +specimens given in Ward's were 5 inches in girth by +10-1/8 inches, and 5-1/2 by 9-1/2 inches.</p> + + +<h4>MUSK OX.</h4> + +<p>There was no musk ox head exhibited by an amateur +sportsman. One, which was exhibited by W. W. Hart & +Co., had horns each of which was 29-3/4 inches by 20-1/2 +inches; the height of the boss was 13 inches. One +of the members of the Boone and Crockett Club, Mr. +Caspar W. Whitney, has this year, 1895, killed a number +of musk ox; but he did not return from his winter trip +to the Barren Grounds until June.</p> + + +<h4>PRONGBUCK.</h4> + +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="95%" summary="Prongbuck Head Trophy Measurements"> +<tr><th colspan="2"> </th><th>Girth.</th><th>Length.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="6%">12</td> +<td width="70%">Theodore Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Sept., '84</td> +<td width="12%">6-1/2</td> +<td width="12%">16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="10%">13.</td> +<td>A. Rogers</td> +<td>6</td> +<td>12-1/2</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="10%">14.</td> +<td>A. Rogers</td> +<td>6-1/4</td> +<td>10-7/8</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="afterchart">No. 13 measured from tip to tip 6-1/8 inches. The greatest width +inside the horns was 8-5/8 inches; the corresponding figures for No. +14 were 7-3/4 and 10-1/4 inches.</p><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430"></a> + +<p>In Buxton's catalogue the largest measurements given +were for a specimen which girthed 5-1/8 inches, and was +in length 15-3/4 inches.</p> + +<p>In Ward's catalogue the two biggest specimens given +measured respectively 15-3/4 inches in length by 6-1/4 +inches in girth, and 12-7/8 inches in length by 6-1/2 inches +in girth.</p> + + +<h4>WAPITI OR ROUND-HORN ELK.</h4> +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="95%" summary="Wapati or Round-Horn Elk Head Trophy Measurements"> +<tr><th colspan="2"> </th><th>Girth.</th><th>Length.</th><th>Spread.</th><th>Points.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="6%">15.</td> +<td width="46%">A. Rogers, Northwestern Wyoming</td> +<td width="12%">8</td> +<td width="12%">64-1/4</td> +<td width="12%">48</td> +<td width="12%">7+7</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">16.</td> +<td>G. O. Shields, Clark's Fork, Wyo.</td> +<td>8-1/4</td> +<td>51-3/8</td> +<td>50</td> +<td>6+7</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">17.</td> +<td>T. Roosevelt, Two Ocean Pass, '91</td> +<td>6-7/8</td> +<td>56-1/2</td> +<td>46-3/8</td> +<td>6+6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">18.</td> +<td>T. Roosevelt, Two Ocean Pass, '91</td> +<td>7-3/4</td> +<td>50-3/4</td> +<td>47</td> +<td>6+6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">19.</td> +<td>P. Liebinger, Indian Creek, Mont.</td> +<td>6-1/8</td> +<td>50-1/2</td> +<td>54</td> +<td>8+8</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="afterchart">No. 15, as far as we know, is the record head for amateur sportsmen +in point of length.</p> + +<p class="afterchart">No. 16 has very heavy massive antlers; though these are not so +long as the antlers of No. 17, yet No. 16 is really the finer head.</p> + +<p>In Buxton's catalogue the three finest heads measure +respectively 8 inches in girth by 62-1/2 inches in length by +48-1/2 inches spread, with 7+9 points; and 7-7/8 inches +in girth by 60-3/4 inches in length by 52 inches spread, +with 6+6 points; and 8-1/2 inches in girth by 55 inches +in length by 41-1/4 spread, with 6+6 points.</p> + +<p>These are also the biggest heads given in Ward's +catalogue.</p> + + +<h4>MULE OR BLACKTAIL DEER.</h4> + +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="95%" summary="Mule or Blacktail Deer Head Trophy Measurements"> +<tr><th colspan="2"> </th><th>Girth.</th><th>Length.</th><th>Spread.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="6%">20.</td> +<td width="58%">T. Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Oct., '83</td> +<td width="12%">5</td> +<td width="12%">26-7/8</td> +<td width="12%">28-1/2</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">21.</td> +<td>P. Liebinger, Madison R., Mont., '89</td> +<td>4-3/4</td> +<td>25-1/2</td> +<td>25-1/2</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="afterchart">No. 20 is an extremely massive and symmetrical head with 28 +points.</p> + +<p class="afterchart">No. 21 has 35 points.</p><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431"></a> + +<p>A still heavier head than either of the above, with 34 +points, was exhibited by the furriers, C. G. Gunther's +Sons; it was in girth 5-1/4 inches, length 26 inches and +spread 28-1/4 inches.</p> + +<p>In Buxton's catalogue the length of the biggest mule +deer horn exhibited was 28-1/2 inches.</p> + +<p>In Ward's catalogue the biggest heads measured respectively: +girth 4-1/2 inches by 28-5/8 inches length, and +girth 5-1/4 inches by 27 inches length; they had 10 and 11 +points respectively.</p> + + +<h4>WHITETAIL OR VIRGINIA DEER.</h4> +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="95%" summary="Whitetail or Virginia Deer Head Trophy Measurements"> +<tr><th colspan="2"> </th><th>Girth.</th><th>Length.</th><th>Spread.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="6%">22.</td> +<td width="58%">G. B. Grinnell, Dismal River, Neb., '77</td> +<td width="12%">4-5/8</td> +<td width="12%">24</td> +<td width="12%">19-1/2</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">23.</td> +<td>T. Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., '94</td> +<td>4</td> +<td>22-1/2</td> +<td>15-3/4</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="chartsmall">No. 22 is a very fine head with 18 points; very symmetrical. +No. 23 has 12 points.</p> + +<p>In Ward's measurements the biggest whitetail horns +are in girth 5-3/8 inches, and in length 27-5/8 inches.</p> + + +<h4>MOOSE.</h4> + +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="95%" summary="Moose Head Trophy Measurements"> +<tr><th colspan="2"> </th><th>Girth.</th><th>Length.</th><th>Points.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="6%">24.</td> +<td width="58%">Col. Haselton, Chesuncook, Me., '87</td> +<td width="12%">8-1/2</td> +<td width="12%">41</td> +<td width="12%">27</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">25.</td> +<td>A. Rogers</td> +<td>7</td> +<td>31-3/4</td> +<td>14</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">26.</td> +<td>T. Roosevelt, Bitter Root Mt., Mont., '89</td> +<td>5-1/2</td> +<td>30</td> +<td>22</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="afterchart">No. 24, a pair of horns only, is, with the possible exception of a +head of Mr. Bierstadt's, the finest we have ever seen in the possession +of an amateur sportsman. The measurements of the palm of one +antler were 41-1/2 by 21-3/4 inches.</p> + +<p class="afterchart">No. 26 has a spread of 40-1/2 inches, and the palm measured 29 by +13 inches.</p> + +<p>In Buxton's catalogue the biggest moose given had +horns which in girth were 8-1/2 inches and in length 35-1/2<a name="Page_432" id="Page_432"></a> +inches; the palm was 41 by 24 inches; the spread was +65 inches. These measurements indicate a head about +as fine as Col. Haselton's, taking everything into consideration.</p> + +<p>The largest head given by Ward was 6-1/2 inches in +girth by 39-7/8 inches in length and 51-3/8 inches spread. +It had 25 points, and the breadth of the palm was +15-3/4 inches.</p> + +<p>For the reason given above, it is difficult in the case +of moose, and far more difficult in the case of caribou, to +judge the respective merits of heads by the mere record +of measurements.</p> + + +<h4>CARIBOU.</h4> + +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="95%" summary="Caribou Head Trophy Measurements"> +<tr><th colspan="2"> </th><th>Girth.</th><th>Length.</th><th>Points.</th></tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="6%">27.</td> +<td width="58%">A. Rogers</td> +<td width="12%">4-3/4</td> +<td width="12%">41-1/4</td> +<td width="12%">16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td style="text-align:right;">28.</td> +<td>T. Roosevelt, Kootenai, B. C., Sept., '88</td> +<td>5-1/2</td> +<td>32</td> +<td>14</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Neither of these is a big head. C. G. Gunther's Sons +exhibited one caribou with 43 points. Its horns were +5-7/8 inches in girth by 50 inches in length. They also +exhibited a much heavier head, which was but 37 inches +long, but was 6-1/2 inches in girth, with all of the tines +highly palmated; one of the brow points had a palm +17-1/2 inches high.</p> + +<p>In Buxton's catalogue the biggest caribou antler given +girthed 5-1/2 inches and was in length 37-1/2 inches. The +biggest measurements given by Ward are 5-5/8 inches +in girth by 60 inches in length for a specimen with +37 points.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_433" id="Page_433"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_17" id="CHAPTER_17"></a>National Park Protective Act</h2> + + +<p class="chapterstart">An Act to protect the birds and animals in Yellowstone National +Park, and to punish crimes in said Park, and for other purposes.</p> + +<p><i>Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives +of the United States of America in Congress assembled</i>, +That the Yellowstone National Park, as its boundaries +now are defined, or as they may be hereafter defined or +extended, shall be under the sole and exclusive jurisdiction +of the United States; and that all the laws applicable +to places under the sole and exclusive jurisdiction of the +United States shall have force and effect in said Park: +<i>Provided, however</i>, That nothing in this Act shall be construed +to forbid the service in the Park of any civil or +criminal process of any court having jurisdiction in the +States of Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. All fugitives +from justice taking refuge in said Park shall be subject +to the same laws as refugees from justice found in the +State of Wyoming.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sec. 2.</span> That said Park, for all the purposes of this +Act, shall constitute a part of the United States judicial +district of Wyoming, and the district and circuit courts +of the United States in and for said district shall have +jurisdiction of all offenses committed within said Park.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sec. 3.</span> That if any offense shall be committed in said +Yellowstone National Park, which offense is not prohibited +or the punishment is not specially provided for<a name="Page_434" id="Page_434"></a> +by any law of the United States or by any regulation of +the Secretary of the Interior, the offender shall be subject +to the same punishment as the laws of the State of +Wyoming in force at the time of the commission of the +offense may provide for a like offense in the said State; +and no subsequent repeal of any such law of the State of +Wyoming shall affect any prosecution for said offense +committed within said Park.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sec. 4.</span> That all hunting, or the killing, wounding, or +capturing at any time of any bird or wild animal, except +dangerous animals, when it is necessary to prevent them +from destroying human life or inflicting an injury, is prohibited +within the limits of said Park; nor shall any fish +be taken out of the waters of the Park by means of +seines, nets, traps, or by the use of drugs or any explosive +substances or compounds, or in any other way than +by hook and line, and then only at such seasons and in +such times and manner as may be directed by the Secretary +of the Interior. That the Secretary of the Interior +shall make and publish such rules and regulations as he +may deem necessary and proper for the management and +care of the Park, and for the protection of the property +therein, especially for the preservation from injury or +spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, +or wonderful objects within said Park; and for the +protection of the animals and birds in the Park from +capture or destruction, or to prevent their being frightened +or driven from the Park; and he shall make rules +and regulations governing the taking of fish from the +streams or lakes in the Park. Possession within the said +Park of the dead bodies, or any part thereof, of any wild +bird or animal shall be <i>prima facie</i> evidence that the<a name="Page_435" id="Page_435"></a> +person or persons having the same are guilty of violating +this Act. Any person or persons, or stage or express +company or railway company, receiving for transportation +any of the said animals, birds or fish so killed, taken +or caught shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, +and shall be fined for every such offense not exceeding +three hundred dollars. Any person found guilty +of violating any of the provisions of this Act, or any +rule or regulation that may be promulgated by the +Secretary of the Interior with reference to the management +and care of the Park, or for the protection of +the property therein, for the preservation from injury +or spoliation of timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities +or wonderful objects within said Park, or for +the protection of the animals, birds and fish in the said +Park, shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall +be subjected to a fine of not more than one thousand dollars, +or imprisonment not exceeding two years, or both, +and be adjudged to pay all costs of the proceedings.</p> + +<p>That all guns, traps, teams, horses, or means of transportation +of every nature or description used by any person +or persons within said Park limits, when engaged +in killing, trapping, ensnaring or capturing such wild +beasts, birds, or wild animals, shall be forfeited to the +United States, and may be seized by the officers in said +Park and held pending the prosecution of any person or +persons arrested under charge of violating the provisions +of this Act, and upon conviction under this Act of such +person or persons using said guns, traps, teams, horses, +or other means of transportation, such forfeiture shall be +adjudicated as a penalty in addition to the other punishment +provided in this Act. Such forfeited property shall<a name="Page_436" id="Page_436"></a> +be disposed of and accounted for by and under the +authority of the Secretary of the Interior.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sec. 5.</span> That the United States circuit court in said +district shall appoint a commissioner, who shall reside in +the Park, who shall have jurisdiction to hear and act +upon all complaints made, of any and all violations of +the law, or of the rules and regulations made by the Secretary +of the Interior for the government of the Park, +and for the protection of the animals, birds and fish, and +objects of interest therein, and for other purposes authorized +by this Act. Such commissioner shall have power, +upon sworn information, to issue process in the name of +the United States for the arrest of any person charged +with the commission of any misdemeanor, or charged +with the violation of the rules and regulations, or with +the violation of any provision of this Act prescribed for +the government of said Park, and for the protection of +the animals, birds and fish in the said Park, and to try +the person so charged; and, if found guilty, to impose +the punishment and adjudge the forfeiture prescribed. +In all cases of conviction an appeal shall lie from the +judgment of said commissioner to the United States district +court for the district of Wyoming, said appeal to be +governed by the laws of the State of Wyoming providing +for appeals in cases of misdemeanor from justices of the +peace to the district court of said State; but the United +States circuit court in said district may prescribe rules of +procedure and practice for said commissioner in the trial +of cases and for appeal to said United States district +court. Said commissioner shall also have power to issue +process as hereinbefore provided for the arrest of any +person charged with the commission of any felony within<a name="Page_437" id="Page_437"></a> +the Park, and to summarily hear the evidence introduced, +and, if he shall determine that probable cause is shown +for holding the person so charged for trial, shall cause +such person to be safely conveyed to a secure place for +confinement, within the jurisdiction of the United States +district court in said State of Wyoming, and shall certify +a transcript of the record of his proceedings and the testimony +in the case to the said court, which court shall +have jurisdiction of the case: <i>Provided</i>, That the said +commissioner shall grant bail in all cases bailable under +the laws of the United States or of said State. All process +issued by the commissioner shall be directed to the +marshal of the United States for the district of Wyoming; +but nothing herein contained shall be construed as preventing +the arrest by any officer of the Government or +employee of the United States in the Park without process +of any person taken in the act of violating the law +or any regulation of the Secretary of the Interior: <i>Provided</i>, +That the said commissioner shall only exercise +such authority and powers as are conferred by this Act.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sec. 6.</span> That the marshal of the United States for the +district of Wyoming may appoint one or more deputy +marshals for said Park, who shall reside in said Park, +and the said United States district and circuit courts +shall hold one session of said courts annually at the town +of Sheridan, in the State of Wyoming, and may also +hold other sessions at any other place in said State of +Wyoming or in said National Park at such dates as the +said courts may order.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sec. 7.</span> That the commissioner provided for in this +Act shall, in addition to the fees allowed by law to commissioners +of the circuit courts of the United States, be<a name="Page_438" id="Page_438"></a> +paid an annual salary of one thousand dollars, payable +quarterly, and the marshal of the United States and his +deputies, and the attorney of the United States and his +assistants in said district, shall be paid the same compensation +and fees as are now provided by law for like services +in said district.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sec. 8.</span> That all costs and expenses arising in cases +under this Act, and properly chargeable to the United +States, shall be certified, approved and paid as like costs +and expenses in the courts of the United States are certified, +approved and paid under the laws of the United +States.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sec. 9.</span> That the Secretary of the Interior shall cause +to be erected in the Park a suitable building to be used +as a jail, and also having in said building an office for +the use of the commissioner; the cost of such building +not to exceed five thousand dollars, to be paid out of +any moneys in the Treasury not otherwise appropriated +upon the certificate of the Secretary as a voucher therefor.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sec. 10.</span> That this Act shall not be construed to +repeal existing laws conferring upon the Secretary of +the Interior and the Secretary of War certain powers +with reference to the protection, improvement and control +of the said Yellowstone National Park.</p> + +<p>Approved May 7, 1894.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_18" id="CHAPTER_18"></a>Constitution of the Boone and Crockett Club</h2> + +<p style="text-align:center;font-size:1em;font-weight:bold;">FOUNDED DECEMBER, 1887.</p> +<hr style="width: 10%;"> + +<h3>Article I.</h3> + +<p>This Club shall be known as the Boone and Crockett +Club.</p> + + +<h3>Article II.</h3> + +<p>The objects of the Club shall be—</p> + +<p>1. To promote manly sport with the rifle.</p> + +<p>2. To promote travel and exploration in the wild +and unknown, or but partially known, portions of the +country.</p> + +<p>3. To work for the preservation of the large game of +this country, and, so far as possible, to further legislation +for that purpose, and to assist in enforcing the existing +laws.</p> + +<p>4. To promote inquiry into, and to record observations +on the habits and natural history of, the various +wild animals.</p> + +<p>5. To bring about among the members the interchange +of opinions and ideas on hunting, travel and +exploration; on the various kinds of hunting-rifles; on +the haunts of game animals, etc.<a name="Page_440" id="Page_440"></a></p> + +<h3>Article III.</h3> + +<p>No one shall be eligible for membership who shall not +have killed with the rifle in fair chase, by still-hunting or +otherwise, at least one individual of one of the various +kinds of American large game.</p> + + +<h3>Article IV.</h3> + +<p>Under the head of American large game are included +the following animals: Bear, buffalo (bison), +mountain sheep, caribou, cougar, musk-ox, white goat, +elk (wapiti), wolf (not coyote), pronghorn antelope, +moose and deer.</p> + + +<h3>Article V.</h3> + +<p>The term "fair chase" shall not be held to include +killing bear, wolf or cougar in traps, nor "fire-hunting," +nor "crusting" moose, elk or deer in deep snow, nor +killing game from a boat while it is swimming in +the water.</p> + + +<h3>Article VI.</h3> + +<p>This Club shall consist of not more than one hundred +regular members, and of such associate and honorary +members as may be elected.</p> + + +<h3>Article VII.</h3> + +<p>The Committee on Admissions shall consist of the +President and Secretary and the Chairman of the Execu<a name="Page_441" id="Page_441"></a>tive +Committee. In voting for regular members, six +blackballs shall exclude. In voting for associate and +honorary members, ten blackballs shall exclude. Candidates +for regular membership who are at the same +time associate members shall be voted upon before +any other.</p> + + +<h3>Article VIII.</h3> + +<p>The Club shall hold one fixed meeting a year, to +be held the second Wednesday in January, and to be +called the annual meeting.</p> + + +<h3>Article IX.</h3> + +<p>This Constitution shall not be changed, save by a four-fifths +vote of the members present.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_442" id="Page_442"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_19" id="CHAPTER_19"></a>Officers<br> +of the Boone and Crockett Club +<br>1895</h2> + + +<h3 style="font-style:italic;margin-top:1em;">President.</h3> + +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="75%" summary="President"> +<tr> +<td width="50%">Theodore Roosevelt,</td> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="50%">New York.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<h3 style="font-style:italic;margin-top:1em;">Secretary and Treasurer.</h3> + +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="75%" summary="Secretary and Treasurer"> +<tr> +<td width="50%">George Bird Grinnell,</td> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="50%">New York.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<h3 style="font-style:italic;margin-top:1em;">Executive Committee.</h3> + +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="75%" summary="Executive Committee"> +<tr> +<td width="50%">W. A. Wadsworth,</td> +<td style="text-align:right;" width="50%">Geneseo, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Archibald Rogers,</td> +<td style="text-align:right;">Hyde Park, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Winthrop Chanler,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Owen Wister,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Charles Deering,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<h3 style="font-style:italic;margin-top:1em;">Editorial Committee.</h3> + +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="75%" summary="Editorial Committee"> +<tr> +<td width="50%">Theodore Roosevelt,</td><td style="text-align:right;" width="50%">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>George Bird Grinnell,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" class="newpg"><a name="Page_443" id="Page_443"></a> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_20" id="CHAPTER_20"></a>List of Members +of the Boone and Crockett Club</h2> + + +<p style="text-align:center;margin-top:1em;margin-bottom:.25em;"><a name="deceased"></a>* Deceased.</p> + +<table align="center" style="margin-top:.5em;margin-bottom:.1em;" class="chart" width="75%" summary="List of Members"> +<tr> +<td width="50%">Lieut. Henry T. Allen,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Capt. Geo. S. Anderson,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Yellowstone Park, Wyo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>F. H. Barber,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Southampton, L. I.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>D. M. Barringer,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. T. Beal,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Albert Bierstadt,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>W. J. Boardman,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Cleveland, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Wm. B. Bogert,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. Benj. H. Bristow,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Wm. B. Bristow,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>A. E. Brown,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Major Campbell Brown,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Spring Hill, Tenn.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Col. John Mason Brown,<a href="#deceased">*</a></td><td style="text-align:right;">Louisville, Ky.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>W. A. Buchanan,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>H. D. Burnham,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Edw. North Buxton,</td><td style="text-align:right;">London, Eng.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>H. A. Carey,<a href="#deceased">*</a></td><td style="text-align:right;">Newport, R. I.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Royal Carroll,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Judge John Dean Caton,<a href="#deceased">*</a></td><td style="text-align:right;">Ottawa, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>J. A. Chanler,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a name="Page_444" id="Page_444"></a>W. A. Chanler,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Winthrop Chanler,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Frank C. Crocker,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Portland, Me.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>A. P. Gordon-Cumming,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington. D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Chas. P. Curtiss,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Paul J. Dashiell,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Annapolis, Md.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>E. W. Davis,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Providence, R. I.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Chas. Deering,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>H. C. de Rham,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>W. B. Devereux,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Glenwood Springs, Colo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Col. Richard Irving Dodge,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Dr. Wm. K. Draper,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>J. Coleman Drayton,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Capt. Frank Edwards,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Dr. D. G. Elliott,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Maxwell Evarts,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Robert Munro Ferguson,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>J. G. Follansbee,</td><td style="text-align:right;">San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Frank Furness,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>W. R. Furness, Jr.,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Jekyll Island, Brunswick, Ga.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Jas. T. Gardiner,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Albany, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>John Sterett Gittings,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Baltimore, Md.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>George H. Gould,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Santa Barbara, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>De Forest Grant,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Madison Grant,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Gen. A. W. Greely,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Geo. Bird Grinnell,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a name="Page_445" id="Page_445"></a>Wm. Milne Grinnell,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Arnold Hague,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. Wade Hampton,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Columbia, S. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Howard Melville Hanna,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Cleveland, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Major Moses Harris,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Maj. Gen. W. H. Jackson,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Nashville, Tenn.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Dr. Walter B. James,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Col. Jas. H. Jones,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Clarence King,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>C. Grant La Farge,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Alex. Lambert,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Dundas Lippincott,<a href="#deceased">*</a></td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. Henry Cabot Lodge,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Francis C. Lowndes,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Frank Lyman,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Brooklyn, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></tr> +<tr> +<td>Geo. H. Lyman,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Chas. B. Macdonald,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Prof. John Bache MacMasters,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Henry May,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Col. H. C. McDowell,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Lexington, Ky.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Dr. C. Hart Merriam,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Dr. J. C. Merrill,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Dr. A. Rutherfurd Morris,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>J. Chester Morris, Jr.,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Chestnut Hill, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>H. N. Munn,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Lyman Nichols,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Jas. S. Norton,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a name="Page_446" id="Page_446"></a>Francis Parkman,<a href="#deceased">*</a><td style="text-align:right;">Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Thos. Paton,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. Boies <a name="tn_478"></a><!-- TN: Comma added after "Penrose"-->Penrose,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>C. B. Penrose,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>R. A. F. Penrose,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>W. Hallett Phillips,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Col. W. T. Pickett,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Meeteetse, Wyo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>H. C. Pierce,</td><td style="text-align:right;">St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>John J. Pierrepont,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Brooklyn, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Capt. John Pitcher,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>A. P. Proctor,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. Redfield Proctor,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Prof. Ralph Pumpelly,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Newport, R. I.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Percy Pyne, Jr.,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. Thos. B. Reed,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Portland, Me.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Douglas Robinson, Jr.,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. W. Woodville Rockhill,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Archibald Rogers,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Hyde Park, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>E. P. Rogers,<a href="#deceased">*</a></td><td style="text-align:right;">Hyde Park, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Elliott Roosevelt,<a href="#deceased">*</a></td><td style="text-align:right;">Abingdon, Va.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>John Ellis Roosevelt,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>J. West Roosevelt,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. Theo. Roosevelt,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Elihu Root,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Bronson Rumsey,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Buffalo, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Lawrence Rumsey,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Buffalo, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Dean Sage,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Albany, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a name="Page_447" id="Page_447"></a>Alden Sampson,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. Carl Schurz,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Philip Schuyler,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Irvington, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>M. G. Seckendorf,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Dr. J. L. Seward,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Orange, N. J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Gen. Phil. Sheridan,<a href="#deceased">*</a></td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Gen. W. T. Sherman,<a href="#deceased">*</a></td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Chas. F. Sprague,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> +Henry L. Stimson,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. Bellamy Storer,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Rutherfurd Stuyvesant,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Frank Thompson,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>B. C. Tilghman,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>T. S. Van Dyke,</td><td style="text-align:right;">San Diego, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hon. G. G. Vest,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Washington, D. C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>W. A. Wadsworth,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Geneseo, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Samuel D. Warren,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Jas. Sibley Watson,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Rochester, N. Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Maj. Gen. W. D. Whipple,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Norristown, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Chas. E. Whitehead,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Caspar W. Whitney,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>E. P. Wilbur, Jr.,</td><td style="text-align:right;">South Bethlehem, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Col. Roger D. Williams,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Lexington, Ky.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>R. D. Winthrop,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Owen Wister,</td><td style="text-align:right;">Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>J. Walter Wood, Jr.,</td><td style="text-align:right;">New York.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<div style="border: dashed 1px;margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;margin-top:2em;"> +<div style="margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;"> +<h2 style="padding-top:.75em;">Transcriber's Note</h2> + +<p>Illustrations have been moved near the relevant section of the text.</p> +<p>Page numbers are documented as links within the source code.</p> + +<p>Inconsistencies have been retained in hyphenation and grammar, except +where indicated in the list below. I have left "Colomiaghi" and "Colombiagi" as-is +although they may refer to the same location.</p> + +<p>Here is a list of the minor typographical corrections made:</p> +<div style="margin-left:15%;margin-right:15%;"> +<ul> +<li><a href="#tn_008">"Zloeem" changed to "Zlooem"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_026">Period added before "577"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_075">"First" changed to "first"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_202">"necesssary" changed to "necessary"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_pg_295">Removed period after "hillside"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_343">"ZLOEEM" changed to "ZLOOEM"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_361">Period changed to a comma after "However"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_394">"cotemporaneously" changed to "contemporaneously"</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_410">Quotation mark added after "tributaries."</a></li> +<li><a href="#tn_478">Comma added after "Penrose"</a></li> +</ul> +</div> + +</div> +</div> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hunting in Many Lands, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HUNTING IN MANY LANDS *** + +***** This file should be named 37122-h.htm or 37122-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/1/2/37122/ + +Produced by David Edwards, Linda Hamilton and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hunting in Many Lands + The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club + +Author: Various + +Editor: Theodore Roosevelt + George Bird Grinnell + +Release Date: August 18, 2011 [EBook #37122] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HUNTING IN MANY LANDS *** + + + + +Produced by David Edwards, Linda Hamilton and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + + + + +_Hunting in Many Lands_ + +_The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club_ + + + + +[Illustration: THE CROWN OF CHIEF MOUNTAIN FROM THE SOUTHEAST.] + + + + + Hunting In Many Lands + + =The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club= + + EDITORS + + THEODORE ROOSEVELT + GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL + + [Illustration] + + NEW-YORK + FOREST AND STREAM PUBLISHING COMPANY + 1895 + + + + + Copyright, 1895, by + Forest and Stream Publishing Company + + Forest and Stream Press, + New York, N. Y., U. S. A. + + + + +Contents + + + Page + + Hunting in East Africa 13 + W. A. Chanler. + + To the Gulf of Cortez 55 + George H. Gould. + + A Canadian Moose Hunt 84 + Madison Grant. + + A Hunting Trip in India 107 + Elliott Roosevelt. + + Dog Sledging in the North 123 + D. M. Barringer. + + Wolf-Hunting in Russia 151 + Henry T. Allen. + + A Bear-Hunt in the Sierras 187 + Alden Sampson. + + The Ascent of Chief Mountain 220 + Henry L. Stimson. + + The Cougar 238 + Casper W. Whitney. + + Big Game of Mongolia and Tibet 255 + W. W. Rockhill. + + Hunting in the Cattle Country 278 + Theodore Roosevelt. + + Wolf-Coursing 318 + Roger D. Williams. + + Game Laws 358 + Charles E. Whitehead. + + Protection of the Yellowstone National Park 377 + George S. Anderson. + + * * * * * + + The Yellowstone National Park Protection + Act 403 + + Head-Measurements of the Trophies at + the Madison Square Garden Sportsmen's + Exposition 424 + + National Park Protective Act 433 + + Constitution of the Boone and Crockett + Club 439 + + Officers of the Boone and Crockett Club 442 + + List of Members 443 + + + + +List of Illustrations + + + Crown of Chief Mountain Frontispiece + From the southeast. One-half mile + distant. Photographed by Dr. Walter + B. James. + + Facing page + A Mountain Sheep 55 + Photographed from Life. From Forest and + Stream. + + Rocky Mountain and Polo's Sheep 75 + The figures are drawn to the same scale + and show the difference in the spread + of horns. From Forest and Stream. + + A Moose of the Upper Ottawa 85 + Killed by Madison Grant, October 10, + 1893. + + How our Outfit was Carried 123 + Photographed by D. M. Barringer. + + Outeshai, Russian Barzoi 151 + Winner of the hare-coursing prize at + Colombiagi (near St. Petersburg) two + years in succession. In type, however, + he is faulty. + + Fox-hounds of the Imperial Kennels 177 + The men and dogs formed part of the + hunt described. + + The Chief's Crown from the East 229 + Photographed by Dr. Walter B. James. + Distance, two miles. + + Yaks Grazing 255 + Photographed by Hon. W. W. Rockhill. + + Ailuropus Melanoleucus 263 + From Forest and Stream. + + Elaphurus Davidianus 271 + + The Wolf Throwing Zlooem, the Barzoi 319 + From Leslie's Weekly. + + Yellowstone Park Elk 377 + From Forest and Stream. + + A Hunting Day 395 + From Forest and Stream. + + In Yellowstone Park Snows 413 + From Forest and Stream. + + On the Shore of Yellowstone Lake 419 + From Forest and Stream. + + NOTE.--The mountain sheep's head on the cover is from a photograph + of the head of the big ram killed by Mr. Gould in Lower California, + as described in the article "To the Gulf of Cortez." + + + + +Preface + + +The first volume published by the Boone and Crockett Club, under the +title "American Big Game Hunting," confined itself, as its title +implied, to sport on this continent. In presenting the second volume, a +number of sketches are included written by members who have hunted big +game in other lands. The contributions of those whose names are so well +known in connection with explorations in China and Tibet, and in Africa, +have an exceptional interest for men whose use of the rifle has been +confined entirely to the North American continent. + +During the two years that have elapsed since the appearance of its last +volume, the Boone and Crockett Club has not been idle. The activity of +its members was largely instrumental in securing at last the passage by +Congress of an act to protect the Yellowstone National Park, and to +punish crimes and offenses within its borders, though it may be +questioned whether even their efforts would have had any result had not +the public interest been aroused, and the Congressional conscience +pricked, by the wholesale slaughter of buffalo which took place in the +Park in March, 1894, as elsewhere detailed by Capt. Anderson and the +editors. Besides this, the Club has secured the passage, by the New York +Legislature, of an act incorporating the New York Zoological Society, +and a considerable representation of the Club is found in the list of +its officers and managers. Other efforts, made by Boone and Crockett +members in behalf of game and forest protection, have been less +successful, and there is still a wide field for the Club's activities. + +Public sentiment should be aroused on the general question of forest +preservation, and especially in the matter of securing legislation which +will adequately protect the game and the forests of the various forest +reservations already established. Special attention was called to this +point in the earlier volume published by the Club, from which we quote: + + If it was worth while to establish these reservations, it is worth + while to protect them. A general law, providing for the adequate + guarding of all such national possessions, should be enacted by + Congress, and wherever it may be necessary such Federal laws should + be supplemented by laws of the States in which the reservations + lie. The timber and the game ought to be made the absolute property + of the Government, and it should be constituted a punishable + offense to appropriate such property within the limits of the + reservation. The game and timber on a reservation should be + regarded as Government property, just as are the mules and the + cordwood at an army post. If it is a crime to take the latter, it + should be a crime to plunder a forest reservation. + + In these reservations is to be found to-day every species of large + game known to the United States, and the proper protection of the + reservations means the perpetuating in full supply of all the + indigenous mammals. If this care is provided, no species of + American large game need ever become absolutely extinct; and + intelligent effort for game protection may well be directed toward + securing through national legislation the policing of forest + preserves by timber and game wardens. + +A really remarkable phenomenon in American animal life, described in the +paper on the Yellowstone Park Protection Act, is the attitude now +assumed toward mankind by the bears, both grizzly and black, in the +Yellowstone National Park. The preservation of the game in the Park has +unexpectedly resulted in turning a great many of the bears into +scavengers for the hotels within the Park limits. Their tameness and +familiarity are astonishing; they act much more like hogs than beasts of +prey. Naturalists now have a chance of studying their character from an +entirely new standpoint, and under entirely new conditions. It would be +well worth the while of any student of nature to devote an entire +season in the Park simply to study of bear life; never before has such +an opportunity been afforded. + +The incident mentioned on page 421 was witnessed by Mr. W. Hallett +Phillipps and Col. John Hay. Since this incident occurred, one bear has +made a practice of going into the kitchen of the Geyser Hotel, where he +is fed on pies. If given a chance, the bears will eat the pigs that are +kept in pens near the hotels; but they have not shown any tendency to +molest the horses, or to interfere in any way with the human beings +around the hotels. + +These incidents, and the confidence which the elk, deer and other +animals in the Park have come to feel in man, are interesting, for they +show how readily wild creatures may be taught to look upon human beings +as friends. + + THEODORE ROOSEVELT, + GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL. + + NEW YORK, August 1, 1895. + + + + +Hunting in Many Lands + + + + +Hunting in East Africa + + +In the month of July, 1889, I was encamped in the Taveta forest, 250 +miles from the east coast, and at the eastern foot of Mt. Kilimanjaro. I +was accompanied by my servant, George Galvin, an American lad seventeen +years old, and had a following of 130 Zanzibaris. My battery consisted +of the following weapons: one 8-bore smooth, using a cartridge loaded +with 10 drams of powder and a 2-ounce spherical ball; one .577 and one +.450 Express rifle, and one 12-bore Paradox. All these were made by +Messrs. Holland & Holland. My servant carried an old 12-bore rifle made +by Lang (intended to shoot 4-1/2 drams of powder, but whose cartridges +he recklessly loaded with more than 7) and a .45-90 Winchester of the +model of 1886. + +Taveta forest has been often described by pens far abler than mine, so I +will not attempt to do this. It is inhabited by a most friendly tribe of +savages, who at the time of my visit to them possessed sufficient food +to be able to supply the wants of my caravan. I therefore made it a base +at which I could leave the major part of my following, and from which I +could with comfort and safety venture forth on shooting trips, +accompanied by only a few men. + +The first of these excursions was made to the shores of Lake Jipe, six +hours' march from Taveta, for the purpose of shooting hippos. I took +with me my whole battery and thirteen men. This unlucky number perhaps +influenced my fortunes, for I returned to Taveta empty handed and fever +stricken, after a stay on the shores of the lake lasting some days. +However, my experiences were interesting, if only because they were in +great measure the result of ignorance. Up to this time my sporting +experience had dealt only with snipe and turkey shooting in Florida, for +on my road from the coast, the little game seen was too wary to give me +a chance of putting a rifle to my shoulder. + +The shores of Lake Jipe, where I pitched my tent, were quite flat and +separated from the open water of the lake by a wide belt of swamp +growth. I had brought with me, for the purpose of constructing a raft, +several bundles of the stems of a large palm growing in Taveta. These +were dry and as light as cork. In a few hours' time my men constructed a +raft, fifteen feet in length and five feet in width. On trial, it was +found capable of supporting two men, but even with this light load it +sank some inches below the surface of the water. I fastened a deal box +on the forward end as seat, and instructed one of the men, who said he +understood boatman's work, to stand in the stern and punt the craft +along with a pole. During the night my slumbers were constantly +disturbed by the deep, ominous grunting of hippopotami, which, as if to +show their contempt for my prowess, chose a path to their feeding +grounds which led them within a few yards of my camp. The night, though +starlit, was too dark for a shot, so I curbed my impatience till the +morning. + +As most people are aware, the day begins in the tropics as nearly as +possible at 6 o'clock and lasts twelve hours. Two hours before dawn I +was up and fortifying myself against the damp morning air with a good +breakfast of roast chicken, rice and coffee. My men, wrapped in their +thin cotton shirts, lay about the fires on the damp ground, seemingly +unmindful of rheumatism and fever, and only desirous to sleep as long +as possible. I awoke my crew at a little after 5, and he, unassisted, +launched the raft. The swamp grass buoyed it up manfully, so that it +looked as if it disdained to touch the yellow waters of the lake. When +it had been pushed along till the water was found to be two feet deep, I +had myself carried to the raft and seated myself on the box. I was clad +only in a flannel shirt, and carried my .577 with ten rounds of +ammunition. As we slowly started on our way, my men woke up one by one, +and shouted cheering words to us, such as, "Look out for the +crocodiles!" "If master dies, who'll pay us!" These cries, added to the +dismal chill of the air and my boatman's only too apparent dislike of +his job, almost caused me to turn back; but, of course, that was out of +the question. + +Half an hour from the shore found me on the edge of the open water, and, +as if to endorse my undertaking, day began to break. That sunrise! +Opposite me the rough outlines of the Ugucno Mountains, rising several +thousand feet, lost their shadows one by one, and far to the right +towered Mt. Kilimanjaro, nearly four miles high, its snowy rounded top +roseate with the soft light of dawn. But in Africa at least one's +higher sensibilities are dulled by the animal side of his nature, and I +fear I welcomed the sun more for the warmth of its rays than for the +beautiful and fleeting vision it produced. Then the hippos! While the +sun was rising my raft was not at rest, but was being propelled by slow +strong strokes toward the center of the lake, and as the darkness +lessened I saw the surface of the lake dotted here and there by spots, +which soon resolved themselves into the black, box-like heads of my +game. They were to all appearance motionless and appeared quite +unconscious or indifferent to the presence, in their particular domain, +of our strange craft and its burden. + +I approached them steadily, going more slowly as the water grew deeper, +and more time was needed for the pulling out and dipping in of the pole. +When, however, I had reached a position some 150 yards from the nearest +group, five in number, they all with a loud snort faced me. I kept on, +despite the ardent prayer of the boatman, and when within 100 yards, and +upon seeing three of the hippos disappear beneath the surface, I took +careful aim and fired at the nearest of the remaining two. I could see +the splash of my bullet as it skipped harmlessly along the surface of +the lake, and knew I had missed. At once all heads in sight disappeared. +There must have been fifty in view when the sun rose. Presently, one by +one, they reappeared, and this time, as if impelled by curiosity, came +much closer than before. I took aim at one not fifty yards away, and +could hear the thud of the bullet as it struck. I thought, as the hippo +at once disappeared, that it was done for. I had not yet learned that +the brain of these animals is very small, and that the only fatal shot +is under the ear. + +After this shot, as after my first, all heads vanished, but this time I +had to wait much longer ere they ventured to show themselves. When they +did reappear, however, it was too close for comfort. One great head, +blinking its small eyes and holding its little horselike ears at +attention, was not twenty feet away, and another was still closer on my +other side. While hesitating at which to shoot I lost my opportunity, +for they both ducked simultaneously. + +I was riveted to my uncomfortable seat, and I could hear my boatman +murmuring "Allah!" with fright, when slowly, but steadily, I felt the +raft rise under my feet. Instinctively I remembered I had but one .577 +rifle, and hastened, my hands trembling, to fasten it with a loose +rope's end to the raft. My boatman yelled with terror, and at that +fearful cry the raft splashed back in the water and all was again still. +One of the hippos, either with his back or head, must have come in +contact with the bottom of the raft as he rose to the surface. How far +he would have gone had not the negro screamed I do not know, but as it +was it seemed as if we were being held in mid air for many minutes. I +fancy the poor brute was almost as frightened as we were, for he did not +reappear near the raft. + +I now thought discretion the better part of valor, and satisfied myself +with shooting at the animal from a somewhat greater distance. I hit two +more in the head and two--who showed a good foot of their fat bodies +above the water--in the sides. None floated on the surface, legs up, as +I had been led to expect they would do; but the men assured me that they +never come to the surface till sundown, no matter what time of day they +may have been shot. This, needless to state, I afterward found, is not +true. My ammunition being exhausted, and the sun blazing hot, I +returned to camp. I awoke the next day feeling anything but energetic; +nevertheless, I set out to see what game the land held ready for the +hunter, dissatisfied with his experiences on water. The country on the +eastern side of Lake Jipe is almost flat, but is dotted here and there +with low steep gneiss hills, stretching in an indefinite line parallel +to the lake and some three miles distant from it. I made my way toward +these hills. On the way I put up some very small antelope, which ran in +such an irregular manner that they presented no mark to my unskilled +arm. + +We reached the hills, and I climbed one and scanned the horizon with my +glasses. Far to the northwest I spied two black spots in a grassy plain. +I gave the glasses to my gun-bearer and he at once said, "Rhinoceros!" I +had never seen these beasts except in a menagerie, and the mention of +the name brought me to my feet eager to come to a closer acquaintance +with them. The wind blew toward me and the game was too far for the need +of caution, so I walked rapidly in their direction. When I got to within +250 yards, I could quite easily distinguish the appearance of my quarry. +They were lying down and apparently oblivious to my approach--perhaps +asleep. My gun-bearer (a Swahili) now began to show an anxiety to turn +back. This desire is, in many cases, the distinguishing trait of this +race. On we went, but now cautiously and silently. The grass was about +two feet high, so that by crawling on hands and knees, one could conceal +most of his body. But this position is not a pleasant one with a blazing +sun on the back, rough soil under the knees and a thirteen-pound rifle +in the hand. + +We got to within fifty yards. I looked back for the negro with my .577. +He was lying flat on his stomach fifty yards to the rear. I stood up to +beckon him, but he did not move. The rhinos did, and my attention was +recalled to them by hearing loud snorts, and, turning my head, I saw the +two beasts on their feet facing me. I had never shot an 8-bore in my +life before, so it is not to be wondered at that the shock of the recoil +placed me on my back. The animals were off before I could recover my +feet, and my second barrel was not discharged. I ran after them, but the +pace of a rhino is much faster than it looks, and I soon found pursuit +useless. I returned to the place where they had lain, and on looking +about found traces of fresh blood. My gun-bearer, as an explanation for +his behavior, said that rhinos were devils, and were not to be +approached closely. He said I must be possessed of miraculous power, or +they would have charged and slain me. The next day, fever laid me low, +and, though the attack was slight, some days elapsed before I could +muster strength to take me back to Taveta. + +After a few days' rest in camp--strengthened by good food and spurred to +fresh exertion by the barren result of my first effort--I set out again, +accompanied by more men and in a different direction. + +My faith in myself received a pleasant encouragement the day before my +departure. My head man came to me and said trade was at a standstill, +and that the natives could not be induced to bring food to sell. On +asking him why, I learned that the Taveta people had found three dead +hippos in Lake Jipe and one rhino near its shores. Meat--a rare treat to +them, even when not quite fresh--filled their minds and bodies, and they +were proof even against the most tempting beads and the brightest +cloths. I cannot say that I shared my head man's anxiety. The fact that +I had not labored altogether in vain, even though others reaped the +benefit of my efforts, filled me with a certain satisfaction. + +A day's march from Taveta brought me to the banks of an almost stagnant +brook, where I made camp. The country round about was a plain studded +with low hills, here thinly thatched with short grass, and there +shrouded with thick bush, above which every now and then rose a giant +acacia. The morning after my arrival, I set out from camp with my 8-bore +in my hands and hope in my heart. Not 200 yards from my tent, I was +startled by a snort and then by the sight of two rhinos dashing across +my path some fifty yards away. This time I did not succumb to my gun's +recoil, but had the doubtful satisfaction of seeing, from a standing +position, the animals disappear in the bush. I made after them and +found, to my delight, a clear trail of fresh blood. Eagerly pressing on, +I was somewhat suddenly checked in my career by almost stumbling over a +rhino apparently asleep on its side, with its head toward me. Bang! went +the 8-bore and down I went. I was the only creature disturbed by the +shot, as the rhino had been dead some minutes--slain by my first shot; +and my satisfaction was complete when I found the hole made by my +bullet. My men shouted and sang over this, the first fruits of my +expedition, and even at this late day I forgive myself for the feeling +of pride I then experienced. I have a table at home made of a piece of +this animal's hide, and supported in part by one of its horns. + +The next day I made an early start and worked till 4 o'clock P. M., with +no result. Then, being some eight miles from camp, I turned my face +toward home. I had not gone far, and had reached the outskirts of an +almost treeless savanna, when my gun-bearer brought me to a halt by the +word _mbogo_. This I knew meant buffalo. I adjusted my glass and +followed the direction of my man's finger. There, 500 yards away, I saw +a solitary buffalo feeding slowly along toward two low bushes, but on +the further side of them. I did not think what rifle I held (it was a +.450), but dashed forward at once. My gun-bearer was more thoughtful and +brought with him my .577. We actually ran. When within eighty or ninety +yards of the two bushes behind which the beast was now hidden. I +slackened pace and approached more cautiously. My heart was beating and +my hands trembling with the exertion of running when I reached the +nearest bush, and my nerves were not exactly steadied by meeting the +vicious gaze of a large buffalo, who stood not thirty feet on the other +side. My gun-bearer in an instant forced the .577 into my hands, and I +took aim at the shoulder of the brute and fired, without knowing exactly +what I was doing. The smoke cleared, and there, almost in his tracks, +lay my first buffalo. His ignorance of my noisy and careless approach +was apparently accounted for by his great age. His hide was almost +hairless and his horns worn blunt with many encounters. He must have +been quite deaf and almost blind, or his behavior cannot be accounted +for. The noise made by our approach, even with the favorable wind, was +sufficient to frighten any animal, or at least put it on its guard. + +My men, who were dreadfully afraid of big game of all sorts, when they +saw the buffalo lying dead, danced with joy and exultation. They kicked +the dead body and shouted curses at it. Camp was distant a good two +hours' march, and the day was drawing to a close. The hungry howl of the +hyenas warned me that my prize would soon be taken from me were it left +unguarded. So piles of firewood were made and the carcass surrounded by +a low wall of flames. I left three men in charge and set out for camp. +There was but little light and my way lay through bits of forest and +much bush. Our progress was slow, and my watch read 10:30 P. M. before I +reached my tent and bed. + +The following day I set out for a shooting ground distant two days' +march from where I had been camped. Several rivers lay in my path and +two tribes of natives. These natives inhabit thick forest and are in +terror of strangers, as they are continually harassed by their +neighbors. When they saw the smallness of my force, however, they +endeavored to turn me aside, but without success. Quiet and +determination generally win with these people. The rivers gave me more +trouble, as they were deep and swift of current, and my friends, the +natives, had removed all bridges. But none of the streams exceeded +thirty feet in width, and an hour's hard work with our axes always +provided us with a bridge. + +The second day from my former camp brought me to the outskirts of the +forest and the beginning of open country. I had hardly made camp before +three Swahili traders came to me, and after the usual greetings began to +weep in chorus. Their story was a common one. They had set out from +Mombasa with twelve others to trade for slaves and ivory with the +natives who inhabit the slopes of Kilimanjaro. Fortune had favored them, +and after four months they were on their way homeward with eighteen +slaves and five good sized tusks. The first day's journey was just over +when they were attacked by natives, three of their number slain and all +their property stolen. In the darkness they could not distinguish what +natives attacked them; but their suspicions rested on the very tribe +among whom they had spent the four months, and from whom they had +purchased the ivory and slaves. I gave them a little cloth and some +food, and a note to my people at Taveta to help them on their way. Of +course, they were slave traders, and as such ought possibly to have been +beaten from my camp. But it is undoubtedly a fact that Mahomedans look +on slave trading as a perfectly legitimate occupation; and if people are +not breaking their own laws, I cannot see that a stranger should treat +them as brigands and refuse them the least aid when in distress. I know +that my point of view in this matter has few supporters in civilization. + +The next day, after a short march, I pitched my tent on the banks of a +small stream, and then set out to prospect for game. I found nothing, +but that night my slumbers were disturbed by the splashing and grunting +of a herd of buffalo drinking. + +These sounds kept me awake, so that I was enabled to make a very early +start--setting out with four men at 4:45. The natives had assured me +that the buffalo came to drink about midnight, and then fed slowly back +to their favorite sleeping-places in the thick bush, reaching there just +about sunrise. By making such an early start I hoped to come up with my +quarry in the open places on the edge of the thick bush just before +dawn, when the light is sufficiently bright to enable one to see the +foresight of a rifle. Dew falls like rain in this part of the world, and +we had not gone fifty paces in the long grass before we were soaking +wet, and dismally cold to boot. My guide, cheered by the prospect of a +good present, led us confidently along the most intricate paths and +through the thickest bush. The moon overhead, which was in its +fifteenth day, gave excellent light. Every now and then some creature +would dash across our path, or stand snorting fearfully till we had +passed. These were probably waterbuck and bushbuck. Toward half past +five the light of the moon paled before the first glow of dawn, and we +found ourselves on the outskirts of a treeless prairie, dotted here and +there with bushes and covered with short dry grass. Across this plain +lay the bush where my guide assured me the buffalo slept during the day, +and according to him at that moment somewhere between me and this bush +wandered at least 100 buffalo. There was little wind, and what there was +came in gentle puffs against our right cheeks. I made a sharp detour to +the left, walking quickly for some twenty minutes. Then, believing +ourselves to be below the line of the buffalo, and therefore free to +advance in their direction, we did so. + +Just as the sun rose we had traversed the plain and stood at the edge of +what my men called the _nyumba ya mbogo_ (the buffalo's home). We were +too late. Fresh signs everywhere showed that my guide had spoken the +truth. Now I questioned him as to the bush; how thick it was, etc. At +that my men fidgeted uneasily and murmured "Mr. Dawnay." This young +Englishman had been killed by buffalo in the bush but four months +before. However, two of my men volunteered to follow me, so I set out on +the track of the herd. + +This bush in which the buffalo live is not more than ten feet high, is +composed of a network of branches and is covered with shiny green +leaves; it has no thorns. Here and there one will meet with a stunted +acacia, which, as if to show its spite against its more attractive +neighbors, is clothed with nothing but the sharpest thorns. The buffalo, +from constant wandering among the bush, have formed a perfect maze of +paths. These trails are wide enough under foot, but meet just over one's +shoulders, so that it is impossible to maintain an upright position. The +paths run in all directions, and therefore one cannot see far ahead. +Were it not for the fact that here and there--often 200 feet apart, +however--are small open patches, it would be almost useless to enter +such a fastness. These open places lure one on, as from their edges it +is often possible to get a good shot. Once started, we took up the path +which showed the most and freshest spoor, and, stooping low, pressed on +as swiftly and noiselessly as possible. We had not gone far before we +came upon a small opening, from the center of which rose an acacia not +more than eight inches in thickness of trunk and perhaps eighteen feet +high. It was forked at the height of a man's shoulder. I carried the +8-bore, and was glad of an opportunity to rest it in the convenient fork +before me. I had just done so, when crash! snort! bellow! came several +animals (presumably buffalo) in our direction. One gun-bearer literally +flew up the tree against which I rested my rifle; the other, regardless +of consequences, hurled his naked skin against another but smaller tree, +also thorny; both dropped their rifles. I stood sheltered behind eight +inches of acacia wood, with my rifle pointed in front of me and still +resting in the fork of the tree. The noise of the herd approached nearer +and nearer, and my nerves did not assume that steelly quality I had +imagined always resulted from a sudden danger. Fly I could not, and the +only tree climbable was already occupied; so I stood still. + +Just as I looked for the appearance of the beasts in the little opening +in which I stood, the crashing noise separated in two portions--each +passing under cover on either side of the opening. I could see nothing, +but my ears were filled with the noise. The uproar ceased, and I asked +the negro in the tree what had happened. He said, when he first climbed +the tree he could see the bushes in our front move like the waves of the +sea, and then, _Ham del illah_--praise be to God--the buffalo turned on +either side and left our little opening safe. Had they not turned, but +charged straight at us, I fancy I should have had a disagreeable moment. +As it was, I began to understand why buffalo shooting in the bush has +been always considered unsafe, and began to regret that the road back to +the open plain was not a shorter one. We reached it in safety, however, +and, after a short rest, set out up wind. + +I got a hartbeest and an mpallah before noon, and then, satisfied with +my day, returned to camp. By 4 P. M. my men had brought in all the meat, +and soon the little camp was filled with strips of fresh meat hanging on +ropes of twisted bark. The next day we exchanged the meat for flour, +beans, pumpkins and Indian corn. I remained in this camp three more days +and then returned to Taveta. Each one of these days I attempted to get a +shot at buffalo, but never managed it. On one occasion I caught a +glimpse of two of these animals in the open, but they were too wary to +allow me to approach them. + +When I reached Taveta, I found a capital camp had been built during my +absence, and that a food supply had been laid in sufficient for several +weeks. Shortly after my arrival I was startled by the reports of many +rifles, and soon was delighted to grasp the hands of two +compatriots--Dr. Abbott and Mr. Stevens. They had just returned from a +shooting journey in Masai land, and reported game plenty and natives not +troublesome. My intention was then formed to circumnavigate Mt. +Kilimanjaro, pass over the yet untried shooting grounds and then to +return to the coast. + +I left five men in camp at Taveta in charge of most of my goods, and, +taking 118 men with me, set out into Masai land. Even at this late date +(1895) the Masai are reckoned dangerous customers. Up to 1889 but five +European caravans had entered their territory, and all but the +last--that of Dr. Abbott--had reported difficulties with the natives. My +head man, a capital fellow, had had no experience with these people, and +did not look forward with pleasure to making their acquaintance; but he +received orders to prepare for a start with apparent cheerfulness. We +carried with us one ton of beans and dried bananas as food supply. This +was sufficient for a few weeks, but laid me under the necessity of doing +some successful shooting, should I carry out my plan of campaign. Just +on the borders of Masai land live the Useri people, who inhabit the +northeast slopes of Kilimanjaro. We stopped a day or two with them to +increase our food supply, and while the trading was going on I descended +to the plain in search of sport. + +I left camp at dawn and it was not till noon that I saw game. Then I +discovered three rhinos; two together lying down, and one solitary, +nearly 500 yards away from the others. The two lying down were nearest +me, but were apparently unapproachable, owing to absolute lack of cover. +The little plain they had chosen for their nap was as flat as a billiard +table and quite bare of grass. The wind blew steadily from them and +whispered me to try my luck, so I crawled cautiously toward them. When I +got to within 150 yards, one of the beasts rose and sniffed anxiously +about and then lay down again. The rhinoceros is nearly blind when in +the bright sun--at night it can see like an owl. I kept on, and when +within 100 yards rose to my knees and fired one barrel of my .577. The +rhinos leapt to their feet and charged straight at me. "Shall I load the +other barrel or trust to only one?" This thought ran through my mind, +but the speed of the animals' approach gave me no time to reply to it. +My gun-bearer was making excellent time across the plain toward a group +of trees, so I could make no use of the 8-bore. The beasts came on side +by side, increasing their speed and snorting like steam engines as they +ran. They were disagreeably close when I fired my second barrel and rose +to my feet to bolt to one side. As I rose they swerved to the left and +passed not twenty feet from me, apparently blind to my whereabouts. I +must have hit one with my second shot, for they were too close to permit +a miss. Perhaps that shot turned them. Be that as it may, I felt that I +had had a narrow escape. + +When these rhinos had quite disappeared, my faithful gun-bearer +returned, and smilingly congratulated me on what he considered my good +fortune. He then called my attention to the fact that rhinoceros number +three was still in sight, and apparently undisturbed by what had +happened to his friends. Between the beast and me, stretched an open +plain for some 350 yards, then came three or four small trees, and then +from these trees rose a semi-circular hill or rather ridge, on the crest +of which stood the rhino. I made for the trees, and, distrusting my +gun-bearer, took from him the .577 and placed it near one of them. Then, +telling him to retire to a comfortable spot, I advanced with my 8-bore +up the hill toward my game. The soil was soft as powder, so my footsteps +made no noise. Cover, with the exception of a small skeleton bush, but +fifty yards below the rhino, there was none. I reached the bush and +knelt down behind it. The rhino was standing broadside on, motionless +and apparently asleep. I rose and fired, and saw that I had aimed true, +when the animal wheeled round and round in his track. I fired again, and +he then stood still, facing me. I had one cartridge in my pocket and +slipped it in the gun. As I raised the weapon to my shoulder, down the +hill came my enemy. His pace was slow and I could see that he limped. +The impetus given him by the descent kept him going, and his speed +seemed to increase. I fired straight at him and then dropped behind the +bush. He still came on and in my direction; so I leapt to my feet, and, +losing my head, ran straight away in front of him. I should have run to +one side and then up the hill. What was my horror, when pounding away at +a good gait, not more than fifty feet in front of the snorting rhino, to +find myself hurled to the ground, having twisted my ankle. I thought all +was over, when I had the instinct to roll to one side and then scramble +to my feet. The beast passed on. When he reached the bottom of the hill +his pace slackened to a walk, and I returned to where I had left my .577 +and killed him at my leisure. I found the 8-bore bullet had shattered +his off hind leg, and that my second shot had penetrated his lungs. I +had left the few men I had brought with me on a neighboring hill when I +had first caught sight of the rhinos, and now sent for them. Not liking +to waste the meat, I sent to camp for twenty porters to carry it back. I +reached camp that night at 12:30 A. M., feeling quite worn out. + +After a day's rest we marched to Tok-i-Tok, the frontier of Masai land. +This place is at certain seasons of the year the pasture ground of one +of the worst bands of Masai. I found it nearly deserted. The Masai I met +said their brethren were all gone on a war raid, and that this was the +only reason why I was permitted to enter the country. I told them that I +had come for the purpose of sport, and hoped to kill much game in their +country. This, however, did not appear to interest them, as the Masai +never eat the flesh of game. Nor do they hunt any, with the exception of +buffalo, whose hide they use for shields. I told them I was their friend +and hoped for peace; but, on the other hand, was prepared for war should +they attack me. + +From Tok-i-Tok we marched in a leisurely manner to a place whose name +means in English "guinea fowl camp." In this case it was a misnomer, for +we were not so fortunate as to see one of these birds during our stay of +several days. At this place we were visited by some fifty Masai +warriors, who on the receipt of a small present danced and went away. +The water at guinea fowl camp consisted of a spring which rises from the +sandy soil and flows a few hundred yards, and then disappears into the +earth. This is the only drinking-place for several miles, so it is +frequented by large numbers and many varieties of game. At one time I +have seen hartbeest, wildbeest, grantii, mpallah, Thomson's oryx, +giraffes and rhinoceros. We supported the caravan on meat. I used only +the .450 Express; but my servant, George Galvin, who used the +Winchester, did better execution with his weapon than I with mine. + +Here, for the first and last time in my African experiences, we had a +drive. Our camp was pitched on a low escarpment, at the bottom of which, +and some 300 feet away, lay the water. The escarpment ran east and west, +and extended beyond the camp some 500 yards, where it ended abruptly in +a cliff forty or fifty feet high. Some of my men, who were at the end of +the escarpment gathering wood, came running into camp and said that +great numbers of game were coming toward the water. I took my servant +and we ran to the end of the escarpment, where a sight thrilling indeed +to the sportsman met our eyes. First came two or three hundred wildbeest +in a solid mass; then four or five smaller herds, numbering perhaps +forty each, of hartbeest; then two herds, one of mpallah and one of +grantii. There must have been 500 head in the lot. They were approaching +in a slow, hesitating manner, as these antelope always do approach +water, especially when going down wind. + +Our cover was perfect and the wind blowing steadily in our direction. I +decided, knowing that they were making for the water, and to reach it +must pass close under where we lay concealed, to allow a certain number +of them to pass before we opened fire. This plan worked perfectly. The +animals in front slackened pace when they came to within fifty yards of +us, and those behind pressed on and mingled with those in front. The +effect to the eye was charming. The bright tan-colored skins of the +hartbeest shone out in pleasing contrast to the dark gray wildbeest. Had +I not been so young, and filled with youth's thirst for blood, I should +have been a harmless spectator of this beautiful procession. But this +was not to be. On catching sight of the water, the animals quickened +their pace, and in a moment nearly half of the mass had passed our +hiding-place. A silent signal, and the .450 and the Winchester, fired in +quick succession, changed this peaceful scene into one of consternation +and slaughter. Startled out of their senses, the beasts at first halted +in their tracks, and then wheeling, as if at word of command, they +dashed rapidly up wind--those in the rear receiving a second volley as +they galloped by. When the dust cleared away, we saw lying on the +ground below us four animals--two hartbeest and two wildbeest. I am +afraid that many of those who escaped carried away with them proofs of +their temerity and our bad marksmanship. + +Ngiri, our next camp, is a large swamp, surrounded first by masses of +tall cane and then by a beautiful though narrow strip of forest composed +of tall acacias. It was at this place, in the thick bush which stretches +from the swamp almost to the base of Kilimanjaro, that the Hon. Guy +Dawnay, an English sportsman, had met his death by the horns of a +buffalo but four months before. My tent was pitched within twenty paces +of his grave and just under a large acacia, which serves as his +monument, upon whose bark is cut in deep characters the name of the +victim and the date of his mishap. + +Here we made a strong zariba of thorns, as we had heard we should meet a +large force of Masai in this neighborhood. I stopped ten days at Ngiri, +and, with the exception of one adventure hardly worth relating, had no +difficulty with the Masai. Undoubtedly I was very fortunate in finding +the large majority of the Masai warriors, inhabiting the country +through which I passed, absent from their homes. But at the same time I +venture to think that the ferocity of these people has been much +overrated, especially in regard to Europeans; for the force at my +disposal was not numerous enough to overawe them had they been evilly +disposed. + +One morning, after I had been some days at Ngiri, I set out with twenty +men to procure meat for the camp. The sun had not yet risen, and I was +pursuing my way close to the belt of reeds which surrounds the swamp, +when I saw in the dim light a black object standing close to the reeds. +My men said it was a hippo, but as I drew nearer I could distinguish the +outlines of a gigantic buffalo, broadside on and facing from the swamp. +When I got to within what I afterwards found by pacing it off to be 103 +paces, I raised my .577 to my shoulder, and, taking careful aim at the +brute's shoulder, fired. When the smoke cleared away there was nothing +in sight. Knowing the danger of approaching these animals when wounded, +I waited until the sun rose, and then cautiously approached the spot. +The early rays of the sun witnessed the last breathings of one of the +biggest buffaloes ever shot in Africa. Its head is now in the +Smithsonian Institute at Washington, and, according to the measurement +made by Mr. Rowland Ward, Piccadilly, London, it ranks among the first +five heads ever set up by him. + +After sending the head, skin and meat back to camp, I continued my way +along the shore of the swamp. The day had begun well and I hardly hoped +for any further sport, but I was pleasantly disappointed. + +Toward 11 o'clock I entered a tall acacia forest, and had not proceeded +far in it before my steps were arrested by the sight of three elephants, +lying down not 100 yards from me. They got our wind at once, and were up +and off before I could get a shot. I left all my men but one gun-bearer +on the outskirts of the forest and followed upon the trail of the +elephant. I had not gone fifteen minutes before I had traversed the +forest, and entered the thick and almost impenetrable bush beyond it. +And hardly had I forced my way a few paces into this bush, when a sight +met my eyes which made me stop and think. Sixty yards away, his head +towering above the surrounding bush, stood a monstrous tusker. His trunk +was curled over his back in the act of sprinkling dust over his +shoulders. His tusks gleamed white and beautiful. He lowered his head, +and I could but just see the outline of his skull and the tips of his +ears. This time my gun-bearer did not run. The sight of the ivory +stirred in him a feeling, which, in a Swahili, often conquers +fear--cupidity. I raised some dust in my hand and threw it in the air, +to see which way the wind blew. It was favorable. Then beckoning my +gun-bearer, I moved forward at a slight angle, so as to come opposite +the brute's shoulder. I had gone but a few steps when the bush opened +and I got a good sight of his head and shoulder. He was apparently +unconscious of our presence and was lazily flapping his ears against his +sides. Each time he did this, a cloud of dust arose, and a sound like +the tap of a bass drum broke the stillness. I fired my .577 at the outer +edge of his ear while it was lying for an instant against his side. A +crash of bush, then silence, and no elephant in sight. I began to think +that I had been successful, but the sharper senses of the negro enabled +him to know the contrary. His teeth chattered, and for a moment he was +motionless with terror. Then he pointed silently to his left. I stooped +and looked under the bush. Not twenty feet away was a sight which made +me share the feelings of my gun-bearer. The elephant was the picture of +rage; his forelegs stretched out in front of him, his trunk curled high +in the air, and his ears lying back along his neck. I seized my 8-bore +and took aim at his foreward knee, but before I could fire, he was at +us. I jumped to one side and gave him a two-ounce ball in the shoulder, +which apparently decided him on retreat. The bush was so thick that in a +moment he was out of sight. I followed him for some time, but saw no +more of him. His trail mingled with that of a large herd, which, after +remaining together for some time, apparently separated in several +directions. The day was blazing hot, and I was in the midst of a +pathless bush, far away from my twenty men. + +By 2 P. M., I had come up with them again and turned my face toward +camp. On the way thither, I killed two zebras, a waterbuck and a +Thomsonii. By the time the meat was cut up and packed on my men's heads +the sun had set. The moon was magnificently bright and served to light +our road. For one mile our way led across a perfectly level plain. This +plain was covered with a kind of salt as white as snow, and with the +bright moon every object was as easily distinguished as by day. The +fresh meat proved an awkward load for my men, and we frequently were +forced to stop while one or the other re-arranged the mass he carried. +They were very cheery about it, however, and kept shouting to one +another how much they would enjoy the morrow's feast. Their shouts were +answered by the mocking wails of many hyenas, who hovered on our flanks +and rear like a pursuing enemy. I shot two of these beasts, which kept +their friends busy for a while, and enabled us to pursue our way in +peace. + +This white plain reaches nearly to the shores of Ngiri Swamp on the +north, and to the east it is bounded by a wall of densely thick bush. We +had approached to within 400 yards of the point where the line of bush +joins the swamp, when I noticed a small herd of wildbeest walking slowly +toward us, coming from the edge of the swamp. A few moments later, a cry +escaped from my gun-bearer, who grasped my arm and whispered eagerly, +_simba_. This means lion. He pointed to the wall of bush, and near it, +crawling on its belly toward the wildbeest, was the form of a lion. I +knelt down and raised the night sight of my .450, and fired at the +moving form. The white soil and the bright moon actually enabled me to +distinguish the yellow color of its skin. A loud growl answered the +report of my rifle, and I could see the white salt of the plain fly as +the lion ran round and round in a circle, like a kitten after its tail. +I fired my second barrel and the lion disappeared. The wildbeest had +made off at the first shot. I tried, in the eagerness of youth, to +follow the lion in the bush; but soon common sense came to my rescue, +and warned me that in this dark growth the chances were decidedly in +favor of the lion's getting me, and so gave up the chase. Now, if I had +only waited till the great cat had got one of the wildbeest, I feel +pretty sure I should have been able to dispose of it at my leisure. When +I returned to camp, I ungratefully lost sight of the good luck I had +had, and gnashed my teeth at the thought that I had missed bringing home +a lion and an elephant. I was not destined to see a lion again on this +journey, but my annoyance at my ill fortune was often whetted by hearing +them roar. + +However, by good luck and by George's help, I succeeded in securing one +elephant. The story of how this happened shall be the last hunting +adventure recorded in this article. We had left Ngiri and were camped at +the next water, some ten miles to the west. I had been out after +giraffes and had not been unsuccessful, and therefore had reached camp +in high good humor, when George came to me and said things were going +badly in camp--that the men had decided to desert me should I try to +push further on into the country; and that both head men seemed to think +further progress was useless with the men in such temper. I was puzzled +what to do, but wasted no time about making up my mind to do something. +I went into the tent and called the two head men to me. After a little +delay, they came, greeted me solemnly and at a motion from me crouched +on their hams. There is but little use in allowing a negro to state a +grievance, particularly if you know it is an imaginary one. The mere act +of putting their fancied wrongs into words magnifies them in their own +minds, and renders them less likely to listen to reason. My knowledge of +Swahili at this time did not permit me to address them in their own +language, so I spoke to them in English, knowing that they understood at +least a few words of that tongue. I told them that I was determined to +push on; that I knew that porters were like sheep and were perfectly +under the control of the head men; consequently, should anything happen, +I would know on whom to fix the blame. I repeated this several times, +and emphasized it with dreadful threats, then motioned for them to leave +the tent. I cannot say that I passed a comfortable night. Instead of +songs and laughter, an ominous stillness reigned in the camp, and, +though my words had been brave, I knew that I was entirely at the mercy +of the men. + +Before dawn we were under way, keeping a strict watch for any signs of +mutiny. But, though the men were sullen, they showed no signs of turning +back. Our road lay over a wide plain, everywhere covered thickly with +lava, the aspect of which was arid in the extreme. + +No more green buffalo bush, no more acacias, tall and beautiful, but in +their place rose columns of dust, whirled hither and thither by the +vagrant wind. Two of my men had been over this part of the road before, +but they professed to be ignorant of the whereabouts of the next water +place. Any hesitation on my part would have been the signal for a +general retreat, so there was nothing for it but to assume a look of the +utmost indifference, and to assure them calmly that we should find +water. At noon the appearance of the country had not changed. My men, +who had incautiously neglected to fill their water bottles in the +morning, were beginning to show signs of distress. + +Suddenly my gun-bearer, pointing to the left, showed me two herds of +elephants approaching us. The larger herd, composed principally of +bulls, was nearer to us, and probably got our wind; for they at once +turned sharply to their right and increased their pace. The other herd +moved on undisturbed. I halted the caravan, told the men to sit down and +went forward to meet the elephants, with my servant and two gun-bearers. +I carried a .577, my servant carried the old 12-bore by Lang, his +cartridges crammed to the muzzle with powder. We were careful to avoid +giving the elephants our wind, so we advanced parallel to them, but in a +direction opposite to that in which they were going. As they passed us +we crouched, and they seemed unconscious of our presence. They went +about 400 yards past us, and then halted at right angles to the route +they had been pursuing. There were five elephants in this herd--four +large, and one small one, bringing up the rear. Some 60 yards on their +right flank was a small skeleton bush, and, making a slight detour, we +directed our course toward that. The leading animal was the largest, so +I decided to devote our attention to that one. I told George to fire at +the leg and I would try for the heart. We fired simultaneously, George +missing and my shot taking effect altogether too high. + +Two things resulted from the discharge of our rifles: the gun-bearers +bolted with their weapons and the elephants charged toward us in line of +battle. As far as I can calculate, an elephant at full speed moves 100 +yards in about ten seconds, so my readers can judge how much time +elapsed before the elephants were upon us. We fired again. My shot did +no execution, but George, who had remained in a kneeling position, broke +the off foreleg of the leading animal at the knee. It fell, and the +others at once stopped. We then made off, and watched from a little +distance a most interesting sight. + +The condition of the wounded elephant seemed to be known to the others, +for they crowded about her and apparently offered her assistance. She +placed her trunk on the back of one standing in front of her and raised +herself to her feet, assisted by those standing around. They actually +moved her for some distance, but soon got tired of their kindly efforts. +We fired several shots at them, which only had the effect of making two +of the band charge in our direction and then return to their stricken +comrade. Cover there was none, and with our bad marksmanship it would +have been (to say the least) brutal to blaze away at the gallant little +herd. Besides, cries of "water!" "water!" were heard coming from my +thirsty caravan. So there was nothing for it but to leave the elephant, +take the people to water, if we could find it, and then return and put +the wounded animal out of its misery. + +An hour and a half later we reached water, beautiful and clear, welling +up from the side of a small hill. This is called Masimani. On reaching +the water, all signs of discontent among my people vanished, and those +among them who were not Mahomedans, and therefore had no scruples about +eating elephant meat, raised a cheerful cry of _tembo tamu_--elephant +is sweet. I did not need a second hint, but returned, and, finding the +poor elephant deserted by its companions, put it out of its misery. It +was a cow with a fine pair of tusks. The sun was setting, and my men, +knowing that activity was the only means of saving their beloved +elephant meat from hyenas, attacked the body with fury--some with axes, +others with knives and one or two with sword bayonets. It was a terrible +sight, and I was glad to leave them at it and return to camp, well +satisfied with my day's work. + +From Masimani, for the next four days, the road had never been trodden +by even an Arab caravan. I had no idea of the whereabouts of water, nor +had my men; but, having made a success of the first day's march, the men +followed me cheerfully, believing me possessed of magic power and +certain to lead them over a well-watered path. A kind providence did +actually bring us to water each night. The country was so dry that it +was absolutely deserted by the inhabitants, the Masai, and great was the +surprise of the Kibonoto people when we reached there on the fourth day. +They thought that we had dropped from the clouds, and said there could +not have been any water over the road we had just come. These Kibonoto +people had never been visited by an European, but received us kindly. +The people of Kibonoto are the westernmost inhabitants on the slopes of +Kilimanjaro. + +From there to Taveta our road was an easy one, lying through friendly +peoples. After a brief rest at Taveta, I returned to the coast, reaching +Zanzibar a little over six months after I had set out from it. + +Perhaps a word about the climate of the part of the country through +which I passed will not be amiss. Both my servant and myself suffered +from fever, but not to any serious extent. If a sedentary life is +avoided--and this is an easy matter while on a journey--if one avoids +morning dews and evening damps, and protects his head and the back of +his neck from the sun, I do not think the climate of East Africa would +be hurtful to any ordinarily healthy person. For my part, I do not think +either my servant or myself have suffered any permanent ill effects from +our venture; and yet the ages of twenty-one and seventeen are not those +best suited for travels in the tropics. + +_W. A. Chanler._ + + + + +[Illustration: A MOUNTAIN SHEEP.] + +To the Gulf of Cortez + + +About a year ago, my brother, who is a very sagacious physician, advised +me to take the fresh liver of a mountain sheep for certain nervous +symptoms which were troublesome. None of the local druggists could fill +the prescription, and so it was decided that I should seek the materials +in person. With me went my friend J. B., the pearl of companions, and we +began the campaign by outfitting at San Diego, with a view to exploring +the resources of the sister republic in the peninsula of Lower +California. Lower California is very different from Southern California. +The latter is--well, a paradise, or something of that kind, if you +believe the inhabitants, of whom I am an humble fraction. The former is +what you may please to think. + +At San Diego we got a man, a wagon, four mules and the needed provisions +and kitchen--all hired at reasonable rates, except the provisions and +kitchen, which we bought. Then we tried to get a decent map, but were +foiled. The Mexican explorer will find the maps of that country a source +of curious interest. Many of them are large and elaborately mounted on +cloth, spreading to a great distance when unfolded. The political +divisions are marked with a tropical profusion of bright colors, which +is very fit. A similar sense of fitness and beauty leads the designer to +insert mountain ranges, rivers and towns where they best please the eye, +and I have had occasion to consult a map which showed purely ideal +rivers flowing across a region where nature had put the divide of the +highest range in the State. + +My furniture contained a hundred cartridges, a belt I always carry, +given by a friend, with a bear's head on the buckle (a belt which has +held, before I got it, more fatal bullets than any other west of the +Rockies), and my usual rifle. J. B. prepared himself in a similar way, +except the belt. + +Starting south from San Diego, we crossed the line at Tia Juana, and +spent an unhappy day waiting on the custom house officials. They, +however, did their duty in a courteous manner, and we, with a bundle of +stamped papers, went on. The only duties we paid were those levied on +our provisions. The team and wagon were entered free under a +prospector's license for thirty days, and an obliging stableman signed +the necessary bond. + +The main difficulty in traveling in Lower California lies in the fact +that you can get no feed for your animals. From Tia Juana east to +Tecate, where you find half a dozen hovels, there is hardly a house and +not a spear of grass for thirty miles. At Tecate there is a little +nibbling. Thence south for twenty-five miles we went to the Agua +Hechicera, or witching water; thence east twenty-five miles more to +Juarez, always without grass; thence south to the ranch house of the +Hansen ranch, at El Rayo, twenty-five miles more. There, at last, was a +little grass, but after passing that point we camped at Agua Blanca, and +were again without grass for thirty miles to the Trinidad Valley, which +once had a little grass, now eaten clean. Fortunately we were able to +buy hay at Tia Juana, and took some grain. Fortunately, also, we found +some corn for sale at Juarez. So, with constant graining, a little hay +and a supply of grass, either absent or contemptible, we managed to +pull the stock through. + +Besides our four hired mules there was another, belonging to our man, +Oscar, which we towed behind to pack later. The animal was small in +size, but pulled back from 200 pounds to a ton at every step. Its sex +was female, but its name was Lazarus, for the overwhelming necessity of +naming animals of the ass tribe either Lazarus or Balaam tramples on all +distinctions of mere sex. We started, prepared for a possible, though +improbable, season of rain; but we did not count on extreme cold, yet +the first night out the water in our bucket froze, and almost every +night it froze from a mere skin to several inches thick. To give an idea +of the country, I will transcribe from a brief diary a few descriptions. +Starting from Tia Juana, we drove or packed for nearly 200 miles in a +southeasterly direction, until we finally sighted the Gulf and the +mountains of Sonora in the distance. At first our road lay through low +mountains, in valleys abounding in cholla cactus. From Tecate southward, +the country was rolling and clotted with brushwood, until you reach +Juarez. Juarez is an abandoned, or almost abandoned, placer camp. Here, +amid the countless pits of the miners, the pinons begin, and then, after +a short distance, the pine barrens stretch for forty miles. Beyond again +you pass into hills of low brush, and plains covered with sage and +buckweed, until finally you cross a divide into the broad basin of the +Trinidad Valley. This is a depression some twenty miles long and perhaps +five miles wide on the average, with a hot spring and a house at the +southwestern end, walled on the southeast by the grim frowning rampart +of the San Pedro Martir range, and on the other sides by mountains of +lesser height, but equal desolation. + +We had intended at first to strike for the Cocopah range, near the mouth +of the Colorado River, and there do our hunting. Several reasons induced +us to change our plan and make for the Hansen ranch, where deer were +said to be plenty and sheep not distant; so we turned from Tecate +southward, made one dry camp and one camp near Juarez, and on the fifth +day of our journeying reached a long meadow, called the Bajio Largo, on +the Hansen ranch. We turned from the road and followed the narrow +park-like opening for four miles, camping in high pines, with water +near, and enough remnants of grass to amuse the animals. This region of +pine barrens occurs at quite an elevation, and the nights were cold. The +granite core of the country crops out all along in low broken hills, the +intervening mesas consisting of granite sand and gravel, and bearing +beside the pines a good deal of brush. Thickets of manzanita twisted +their blood-colored trunks over the ground, and the tawny stems of the +red-shank covered the country for miles. The red-shank is a lovely +shrub, growing about six or eight feet high, with broom-like foliage of +a yellowish green, possessing great fragrance. If you simply smell the +uncrushed shoots, they give a faint perfume, somewhat suggestive of +violets; and if you crush the leaves you get a more pungent odor, sweet +and a little smoky. Also, the gnarled roots of the red-shank make an +excellent cooking fire, if you can wait a few hours to have them burn to +coals. All things considered, the pine barren country is very +attractive, and if there were grass, water and game, it would be a fine +place for a hunter. + +From our camp at Bajio Largo, J. B. and I went hunting for deer, which +were said to be plentiful. We hunted from early morning till noon, +seeing only one little fellow, about the size of a jack rabbit, scuttle +off in the brush. Then we decided to go home. This, however, turned out +to be a large business. The lofty trees prevented our getting any +extended view, and the stony gulches resembled each other to an annoying +degree. At last even the water seemed to flow the wrong way. So we gave +up the attempt to identify landmarks, and, following our sense of +direction and taking our course from the sun, we finally came again to +the long meadow, and, traveling down that, we came to camp. Here we +violated all rules by shooting at a mark--our excuse was that we had +decided to leave the vicinity without further hunting; and, at all +events, we spoiled a sardine box, to Oscar's great admiration. + +In order to get a fair day's journey out of a fair day, we had to rise +at 4 or 5 o'clock. Oscar once or twice borrowed my watch to wake by, but +the result was only that I had to borrow J. B.'s watch to wake Oscar by; +so I afterwards retained the timepiece, and got up early enough to start +Oscar well on his duties. + +The question of fresh meat had now become important. We left Bajio Largo +and drove to Hansen's Laguna, a shallow pond over a mile long, much +haunted by ducks. Here we made a bad mistake, driving six or eight miles +into the mountains, only to reach nowhere and be forced to retrace our +steps. Night, however, found us at El Rayo, the Hansen ranch house, and, +as it turned out, the real base of our hunting campaign. The Hansen +ranch is an extensive tract, named after an old Swede, who brought a few +cattle into the country years ago. The cattle multiplied exceedingly, to +the number, indeed, of several thousand, and can be seen at long range +by the passer-by. They are very wild and gaunt at present, and will +prance off among the rocks at a surprising rate before a man can get +within 200 yards of them. Ex-Governor Ryerson now owns these cattle, and +his major-domo, Don Manuel Murillo, a fine gray-haired veteran, learning +that I had known the Governor, gave me much friendly advice, and sent +his son to guide us well on the road to the Trinidad Valley and the +sheep land. He also provided us with potatoes and fresh meat, so that we +lived fatly thenceforth. + +Our track lay past an abandoned saw-mill, built by the International +Company. Thence we were to go to Agua Blanca, the last water to be had +on the road; for the next thirty miles are dry. The saw-mill was built +to supply timber to the mining town of Alamo, some twenty-five miles +south. The camp is now in an expiring state and needs no timber, but is +said to shelter some rough and violent men. The road from the mill was +deep in sand, and our pace was slow. The darkness was coming cold and +fast when we finally drove on to the water and halted to camp. + +Two men were there before us, with a saddle-horse each, and no other +apparent equipment. When we arrived, the men were watering their +animals, and at once turned their backs, so as not to be recognized. +Then they retired to the brush. We supped and staked out the mules, and +then sent Oscar to look up our neighbors. Oscar went and shouted, but +got no answer, and could find no men. We thought that our mules were in +some danger, and J. B., who is a yachtsman, proposed to keep anchor +watch. So Oscar remained awake till midnight, when he awoke me and +retired freezing, saying that he had seen the enemy prowling around. I +took my gun and visited the mules in rotation till 2:30. Then J. B. +awoke, chattering with cold, but determined, and kept faithful guard +until 5, when we began our day with a water-bucket frozen solid. + +All our property remained safe, and a distant fire twinkling in the +brush showed that our neighbors were still there. After breakfast Oscar +again sought the hostile camp, and finally found a scared and innocent +Frenchman, who cried out, on recognizing his visitor: + +"Holy Mary! I took you for American robbers from the line, and I have +lain awake all night, watching my horses." + +From Agua Blanca we drove across the Santa Catarina ranch, for the most +part plain and mesa, covered with greasewood and buckbrush. This latter +shrub looks much like sage, except that its leaves are of a yellow-green +instead of a blue-green. It is said to furnish the chief nutrition for +stock on several great ranches. Certainly there was no visible grass, +but buckbrush can hardly be fattening. Toward night, we crossed the pass +into the Trinidad Valley and drove down a grade not steep only, but +sidelong, where the wagons both went tobogganing down and slid rapidly +toward the gulch. The mules held well, however, and before dark we were +camped near the hot spring at the house of Alvarez. + +Our friend, Don Manuel Murillo, had recommended us both to Alvarez and +to his sister, Senora Paula, but both of these were absent. Don Manuel +had also urged us to get the Indian Anastasio for a guide. + +"For heaven's sake," he said, "don't venture without a guide. You may +perish from thirst, as others have done before you." + +We tried at first to hire burros and let our mules rest, but the Indian +who owned the burros stated that his terms were "one burro, one day, one +dollar"--an impudent attempt at robbery, which we resented. + +We interviewed Anastasio, however, who said he would start at any +moment; and, leaving Oscar to guard the wagon, we packed two mules, +saddled two more for J. B. and myself, and, giving Anastasio the +tow-rope of a pack-mule, we started after him. Anastasio was the most +interesting figure of the trip, and I must be pardoned if I go into some +detail about him. He spoke some Spanish and understood a good deal. When +he did not understand, he never stated that fact, but either assumed a +stony look or answered at cross-purposes; so that we did not get to know +a great deal about each other for some time. + +He had, too, a lingering remnant of the distrust of horses and mules +that his ancestors must have felt in Spanish times, and when his +pack-mule got a stone in her hoof, he observed it with anxiety from a +distance, but could not summon resolution to meddle with so serious a +matter. + +Moreover his measure of distance was primitive. I would ask, for +instance, how many miles it was to our next stop. He might say three +miles for an all-day journey of six times that length, or he might tell +you that we were nine miles from a spot which we reached in half an +hour. + +I then substituted leagues for miles, thinking that the Mexican usage +would be more familiar to him; but at last Anastasio said, rather +impatiently, that all this business of leagues and miles was rather +confusing and outside of his experience. We would reach the next water +shortly before sunset, and that was all the calculation he was +accustomed to, and quite close enough. + +Aside from his knowledge of Spanish, Anastasio was indeed a fine +representative of the best of the stone age, and as we journeyed on, one +got an excellent idea of the life of the savage here in early times. +About 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we reached the only water spot on the +trail. Anastasio parted some withered reeds, and, looking earnestly, +said, "Dry." A short distance further up, he repeated the word, and yet +again, till, at his fourth attempt, he said, "Very little," and we +camped. By scraping away the mud and grass, we got a small gravelly +hole, and dipped out the slowly seeping water, a cup at a time. We thus +managed to give each of the mules a little in a pan, and to get a +canteen full for cooking. + +Then I noticed Anastasio gathering wood, which I thought at first was +for general use, but I found it was a private pile, to be used, so to +speak, for bedding. Anastasio did not take the ax to secure his wood, +but smashed off mesquite branches with a rock or pulled out some old +root. He quite despised pinon and juniper logs, saying they gave no +heat--meaning, probably, that they burned out too soon. + +We turned in soon after supper, and the night was cold. Anastasio said +he feared snow. The reason for his fear was soon evident. My bed was +about twenty feet from Anastasio's, and during the night I would turn +and watch him. He carried but one small blanket of about the texture of +a gunny sack. He lighted a long smouldering fire, stripped himself +naked, except a breech-clout, and, with his back to the coals and his +front protected by his gauzy blanket, he slept until the cold roused +him, when he put on more wood and slept again. I offered him four pairs +of warm horse blankets to sleep in, but that was not the thing. He said +that he needed to have the fire strike him in the small of the back, and +that he slept in that way always. So throughout the night, in my wakeful +moments, I saw the light reflected from his mahogany person. Evidently +snow or cold rain would be disastrous to people who need a fire all +night; for, with no covering against the cold and with fires +extinguished by storm, they might easily freeze to death. + +We were packed and marching at 7:30 next morning, and to those who know +the inwardness of packing in winter, that statement means a good deal. +It means, for instance, that J. B. got up, at my summons, long before +dawn and cooked a splendid breakfast, and that the mules were caught and +grained and saddled, and the packs made and lashed, by the earliest +sun. + +J. B. was a wonder. He seemed to enjoy giving his fellow mortals the +best breakfasts and suppers--for we never had any midday meals--that our +supplies could furnish. Always rising at the first call, in the dark, +sometimes with an accompaniment of snow or rain, he managed the +commissariat to perfection. + +I in my humble way packed and saddled and did other necessary work, and +Anastasio regarded us with benevolent curiosity, though always ready to +get wood or water or mules when we asked him to do so. + +We were now approaching the true desert. This term is not restricted to +the broad level sand wastes along the Gulf, but includes the arid and +waterless mountains adjacent, and this must be borne in mind when the +Mexicans tell you that sheep are to be found in the desert. + +We passed the last of the brushy hills, and, crossing a small divide, +came over slopes of volcanic cinders to a little water spot with dwarf +willows and grass. This was our hunting camp. The country through which +our route had lain heretofore was altogether granitic, though one could +see hills apparently of stratified material in the distance. Toward the +desert, we met beds of conglomerate and trachyte, and mountains covered +with slide-rock, ringing flint-like clinkers from some great volcanic +furnace. But doubtless some accurate and industrious German has +described all this, in a work on the geology of the peninsula, and to +that valuable treatise I will refer you for further facts. + +The vegetation had somewhat changed. There were more cactuses, +particularly the fleshy kind called venaga, though I noticed with +surprise the absence of the great fruit-bearing cactuses, the saguarro +and pitaya, all along our route. The Spanish daggers were very numerous, +as were also mescal plants, both of these forming veritable thickets in +places. + +The venaga cactus is similar to the bisnaga, found in other parts of +Mexico, except in the disposition and curvature of the thorns. They are +stumpy plants, growing from a foot to three feet or so in height, and a +foot or more in diameter, like a thickset post. Those of us who +delighted in Mayne Reid's "Boy Hunters" will remember how the +adventurous young men saved themselves from dying of thirst by laying +open these succulent cactuses with their long hunting knives and +drinking the abundant juices. I have often and faithfully tried to +perform the same feat, out of reverence for my heroes, but failed to +find anything juicier than, say, a raw turnip--by no means satisfying as +a drink. The venagas are found on the mountains where sheep haunt, with +their hard prickly rinds broken and the interior hollowed out, and +Anastasio said that the sheep do this by knocking holes in the cactus +with their horns and then eating the inside. + +This cactus country makes the third variety of wilderness encountered in +the peninsula. There are four: first, and best, the pine barrens; +second, the brushy hills and plains, covered with sage, greasewood and +buckweed; third, this spike-bearing volcanic region; and fourth, the +appalling desolation of the acknowledged desert. + +The moment we had unloaded and watered our animals, Anastasio and I set +out to look for deer. Anastasio wore the spotted and tattered remnant of +a frock-coat, once green, given him by an Englishman, of whom I shall +say more later. He had guarachis, or sandals, on his feet, bare legs, a +breech-clout, and on his head a reddish bandanna handkerchief in the +last stages of decay; and as he peered over some rock, glaring long and +earnestly in search of game, he reminded one of those lean and wolfish +Apaches that Remington draws in a way so dramatic and so full of grim +significance. + +Anastasio was fifty-one years old and had no upper incisors, but the way +he flung his gaunt leathern shanks over those mountains of volcanic +clinkers, armed with the poisoned bayonets of myriads of mescal, cactus +and Spanish dagger, was astonishing. + +I told him that I was not racing and that he would scare the game. In +fact, he did start one little fellow, but he said he always saw the game +first, and for this day I was quite powerless to hold him in; so I +decided to return to camp before dark. This disgusted Anastasio greatly. +"In this way we shall never kill," said he. "We are going to suffer from +hunger." I assured him that we had plentiful supplies, but he had come +for meat. Unbounded meat had been the chief incentive for his trip, and +hungry he was determined to be. + +The next day J. B. set out early with the red man. I arranged camp, and +two or three hours later took what I supposed was a different direction, +but soon encountered the pair returning. J. B. had a painful knee, and +Anastasio had started his racing tactics and kept them up until J. B. +was quite lame. + +The Indian reported that he had seen sheep. J. B. had used the glass +without finding them, and then Anastasio had captured it and looked +through the wrong end, nodding and saying he could count five, very big. +This, I am sorry to say, was false and affected on Anastasio's part, and +J. B. was skeptical about the sheep altogether; but I knew how hard it +was to find distant game, when you don't know exactly how it should +appear. To reach the supposed sheep, the mountain must be climbed and +the crest turned, for the wind permitted no other course. J. B. did not +feel up to the task, and I directed him to camp. Anastasio and I climbed +for about four hours, and reached a position whence his sheep would be +visible. He was now discontented because J. B. had not lent him his gun. +No request had been made for the gun, to be sure, but I confess that a +request would have met with my earnest opposition in any event. +Evidently Anastasio's expectations of fresh meat were now so dim as to +cast serious shadows on my skill as a hunter; but, resigning himself to +the inevitable, he crawled to the summit of the ridge for a view. He +stared long and said he could make out one ewe lying down under a +juniper. I tried the glass. He was right. His unaided sight seemed about +equal in definition to my field-glass. On this occasion he declined to +use the glass, even with some appearance of disgust. We could get no +nearer unseen, and, though the distance was very great, I decided to +risk a shot. + +I fired, in fact, two or three shots at the ewe, alarming her greatly, +when from beneath a cliff which lay below us a band streamed out. Two +big rams started off to the right. Anastasio and I ran down a bit, and I +tried a long shot at the leading ram. The distance was great, and the +run had pumped me a little. I missed. The second ram was still larger. +He stopped a moment at 150 yards and I dropped him. Anastasio grunted +satisfaction. I swung to the left, where the rest of the band was +journeying, sighted at the shoulder of a young ram and fired. The ball +passed through my intended victim, dropping him, and entered the eye +of a yearling ram who stood behind, thus killing two rams at one shot--a +most unusual accident. + +[Illustration: ROCKY MOUNTAIN AND POLO'S SHEEP, DRAWN TO SAME SCALE.] + +The rest of the band were now quite distant, and, though I fired several +shots, at Anastasio's desire--he said he wanted a fat ewe--none took +effect. + +I cleaned the sheep and skinned out the big head. Anastasio took one +small ram entire on his back, supporting it by a rope passed over the +top of his head, and started down with it, while I followed after with +the big horns. It was 1 o'clock. The head might have weighed thirty-five +pounds fresh. It grew to weigh 1,500 pounds before dark. Stumbling down +through the slide-rock, with legs full of venomous prickers, I passed +below camp without noticing it, and was well on the other side, when I +thought I had gone about far enough, and shouted. J. B.'s voice answered +across a small hill, and I discovered that he had never reached camp at +all, but had found a water spot, and wisely decided not to leave it +without good reason. + +I scouted a bit to the west, but found unfamiliar country, and, as the +sun had set, we were seemingly about to stay by that water all night, +when I turned around and saw a pale column of smoke rising above the +crest of the ridge against the evening sky. + +At once we marched around the ridge, and, as we rose over the divide, we +saw the whole hillside flaming with signal fires. Our dear old Anastasio +had become alarmed and set fire to fifteen or twenty dead mescals in +different places to guide us home. God bless a good Indian! + +With vast content we prepared and ate a luxurious supper. Anastasio, +however, fearing that he might be hungry in the night, impaled all the +ribs of one side of the ram on a pole and planted it in a slanting +position over the fire. Thus he was enabled to put in his time during +his wakeful moments, and face the prospect of a remote breakfast without +discouragement. + +The next day, I spent the morning in washing, resting, and cutting +spikes out of my legs. Anastasio packed in the second small ram, and ate +ribs and slept. Then, in the afternoon, we got the rest of the big +fellow down. Anastasio, to make his load lighter, smashed off the shanks +with a stone, although he carried a knife in his belt--a striking trick +of heredity. + +And then we talked. "The Trinidad Valley is not my country," said +Anastasio; "this is my country. Yonder, under that red rock on the +mountain side, about five miles away, there is a spring in the gulch on +the edge of the desert. I was born there, and lived there twenty years +with my father's family. Here where your camp is"--about twenty feet +square of slide-rock level enough to stand on--"we sowed crops. We +scraped a hole between the stones with our hands, put in squash seeds, +watered them by carrying water from the spring in our hands and raised +several hills." + +So he went on, not in so connected a way, but showing, bit by bit, his +manner of life. His tribe, which he called the Kil-ee-ou, must have been +very restricted in numbers at best. His territory was a few leagues of +desert, or almost desert, mountains, every yard of which he knew by +heart, while just over the ridge dwelt the Cocopahs, his mortal enemies. +Sometimes a score of men armed with bows would start a tribal hunt for +deer, though the sheep were beyond their means of attack. Sometimes they +journeyed a few leagues to the Gulf to eat mussels. We could see the +great blue sheet and the leagues of salt incrustations glimmering white +on the hither side, and at one spot on the horizon the blue peak of some +Sonora mountain rose out of the seeming ocean. + +But a few deer and mussels and a half dozen hills of squashes could not +fill the abyss of the Indian appetite. The stand-by was roasted mescal. +These plants grow in great numbers in the country adjoining the desert, +and at every season there are some just right for roasting. The Indians +selected these and cooked them for two or three days in a hole in the +ground, by a process called tatema, similar in principle to a clam-bake. +This roasting converts the starchy leaves and heart into a sugary mass, +so that the resulting food is something like a sweet fibrous beet. The +Indian's life really lay in gathering and roasting mescal. And when a +storm prevented the necessary fires, the tribe passed days, often many +days, without food. + +So much for Anastasio's early life. A year ago, he told us, he went +hunting with two Americans. One of them came from under the earth, where +there were six months of night, and had passed two seas and been a +month on the train. We supposed, from this, that Anastasio had served as +guide to an Englishman, whose home he described at the Antipodes. The +six months of night were, perhaps, represented by the London fogs, and, +if he passed a month on the train, he must have come by the Southern +Pacific. The Englishman had presented Anastasio with the very +undesirable gaberdine I have before described. Anastasio said that the +Englishman shot quail in the head every time with his rifle, but on +meeting a band of eleven sheep he fired nine shots without hitting. +Anastasio said he trembled, but I incline to think that the Indian had +run him out of breath. Finally the Englishman secured two ewes and a +lamb, after three weeks of hunting. + +Look at my fortune! A single day on the mountain, and three rams to show +for it; one with horns that are an abiding splendor--sixteen inches +around the base and forty-two inches on the outer sweep. + +I thought at first that the horns made more than one complete spiral, +but, on leveling them carefully, I saw that the entire curve would not +be complete without the points, which were smashed off. In this +connection it is only fair to consider that I carried my lucky bear's +head belt, and invariably sacrificed to the Sun, as several ragged +garments, hung on spikes and branches, may still testify. + +The weather threatened storm. J. B.'s leg would not permit him to hunt. +Anastasio was full of meat, eating roasted ribs night and day, beside +his regular meals, and we decided to retreat. + +I noticed that the sheep hides had little of the under wool that the +Northern sheep have in December, nor were the animals fat, though the +flesh was sweet and tender, and the livers had their desired medicinal +effect. + +Anastasio said it was customary to hunt in summer, when the sheep were +fat, and were compelled to resort to the water holes. Aside from the +meanness of taking advantage of the animals' necessities, the summer is +a bad season for hunting, both because the flesh is rank and spoils +quickly, and the heat and insects are intolerable. + +We packed our mules in a gentle rain, and Anastasio made a great bundle +of rejected meat for his own use. To get rope, he slightly roasted the +leaves of the Spanish dagger, tore the hot spikes in shreds with his +tough fingers and knotted the fragments into a strong, pliable cord. + +In two days we were again in the Trinidad Valley, and in two days +more--one of them passed in facing a cold, driving storm, of great +violence--we had reached our old friend, Don Manuel Murillo, at El Rayo. +Here we lay over a day to rest the animals, and Don Manuel again played +the part of a good angel in letting us have some hay. + +I tried a shot at a duck on a little pond. The shot was a costly +success. The duck died, but I had to wade for his remains through many +yards of frozen mud and dirty water. The duck, though lean, was tender. +My last hunt was for deer at El Rayo, with a boy of Don Manuel's for +guide. Toward noon I saw two deer and shot them. I do not at present +know just how to class them. The tail is that of the ordinary mule-deer, +or blacktail, of Colorado and Montana, but there is no white patch on +the rump. + +The most of the deer in Lower, as well as in Southern, California have +little white on their rumps, as in these specimens, but the upper +surface of the tail is generally dark. The majority of the animals also +are smaller than the typical mule-deer of our Northern States, but +whether the differences between the two are great enough and constant +enough to form a defined variety, some more competent naturalist must +decide. Pending authoritative decision, I will submit, as a working +theory of a purely amateur kind, this suggestion: that the Mexicans are +right in saying that the northern zone of their country contains two +varieties of deer--one a large animal, called "buro," identical with our +Northern mule-deer; the other called "venado," a mule-deer too, but only +a cousin of the "buro," much smaller, and with the white parts of the +mask, throat, rump and tail either absent or much diminished in extent. + +Our journey home was accomplished in the worst weather. Snow, cold rain, +gales of surprising fury, made life a struggle; but we jumped at every +chance for progress, and finally crossed the line twenty-five days after +we had left it--tired, ragged, dirty, but with our mules alive and our +hearts contented. + +Our experience of the peninsula indicated that there were few +inhabitants of any kind, brute or human. We saw hardly a dozen rabbits +on the trip. There were some quail and many ducks, but the latter were +visitors only. Deer were very scarce, and there were but a few half-wild +cattle visible. + +As for human beings, there was not an inhabited house on our road from +Alvarez Place, in the Trinidad Valley, to El Rayo, a distance of +fifty-five miles; nor from El Rayo to Juarez, twenty-five miles more. +Indeed, except for the few hovels at Tecate, the houses for the rest of +the way were hardly more numerous. And yet we had a strong impression +that the country had nearly all the population it could support. Given a +moderately dry year, and the part of Lower California which we visited +can be thought fit only for bogus land companies and goose-egg mines; +or, yes, it might be an ideal spot for a health resort or a penal +colony. + +_George H. Gould._ + + + + +A Canadian Moose Hunt + + +In October, 1893, I made an extended trip with my brother into the +country around the head waters of the Ottawa. Our original plan, to push +northward toward the "Height of Land" after caribou, was frustrated by +high winds, which made travel on the large lakes slow and dangerous. The +crossing of a ten-mile lake, which could be accomplished in a morning if +calm, would consume several days with a high wind blowing, necessitating +a tedious coasting on the windward shore. After much delay from this +cause and from heavy rains, which made hunting difficult in the extreme, +we at length abandoned the hope of caribou on this trip, and turned +southward from Birch Lake into Lake Kwingwishe--the Indian name for meat +bird. This was about the northern limit of moose, although a few are +found beyond it. + +Our repeated failures to see this great deer would not form interesting +reading, although, if recorded, they would, no doubt, bring to the +mind of many a moose hunter memories of times when the hunt was hard and +the result--a blank. It is my purpose in this article to merely sketch +one or two instances of this sort, which, in contrast to days of +unrewarded watching, were red-lettered with excitement. I only give the +episodes because too often we relate our victories alone, and missed +shots and barren tramps are consigned to ill-merited oblivion, however +real they were. + +[Illustration: A MOOSE OF THE UPPER OTTAWA.] + +After hunting the country around Lake Kwingwishe, we at length camped on +a small pond near the east shore. Here we watched and called every night +and morning; then we visited neighboring swamps and ponds, carrying a +canoe through the forest by compass. It was always the same--wet and +hungry, tired out with tramping through tamarack swamps, we would call +half the night, sometimes startled with false alarms from hoot owl or +loon, and then lie down in a rain-soaked tent without a fire, for smoke +always scares a moose. The first streaks of dawn came, and again we were +up and anxiously watching the shore for the appearance of the monster we +were after. There were his tracks a few hours old but we could never +catch him making them. It was too early in the season to trail them +down, as the bulls were traveling continuously in impenetrable swamps, +and our best chance was to run across them on the waterways. + +One morning, on a pond we had named "Little Trout Pond," because it +looked as though it should have trout in it, but did not; we awoke, +after some specially exhausting and disappointing "back pond" +expeditions, and found Chabot, one of our two Indian guides, gone. Late +in the afternoon he returned. He had been seeing the country, and had +found a swamp about three miles off full of fresh tracks, "so big +moose," and he described tracks such as must have belonged to the Irish +elk. Soon after sunrise on the following day we were there. Cold lunch, +no dinner and lots of beautiful fresh tracks, one the largest I ever +saw. + +We watched motionless all day, saw the sun cross the zenith and sink out +of sight, saw the twilight fade away and the moon come up. About +midnight we went back to camp, through the woods. Night travel in a +forest that you can scarcely get through in the daytime is beyond +description. + +"So good swamp," said Chabot sadly that night as he crawled into his +tent. + +The next day we pitched a rough camp on a hogback between two barren +plains, about five miles from our main camp. It rained hard as soon as +we got the tent up, and we watched a runway at the foot of the hill +until dark and then turned in. + +The next morning it rained so heavily that we lay in our tent, four of +us, until about 11 A. M., when it slacked up a little. My diary says, +"No fire and little breakfast." Before this "little breakfast" was +finished we heard a moose call close by. Seizing our rifles, we started +with Chabot to stalk him. The brevity of a diary is sometimes eloquent. +Mine says, "Walked from 12 M. to 4.30 P. M. through the bush. Didn't +hear that moose again." + +The latter hour found us back in camp to get breakfast, when our other +guide, Jocko, who had gone to the main camp for food, came back in great +excitement, having found some fresh signs close at hand. Breakfast was +dropped and again we started. We got back just after dark from that trip +and ate--for the first time that day--some cold partridge and pork. + +This was a fair sample of our hunting day, but did not equal the +following one. It rained all that night, and the tent, not having been +properly stretched, leaked. We were awakened by the crackling of a fire +the guides had made. It was direct disobedience of orders, and contrary +to the most elementary rules of moose hunting; but, cold and faint for +want of food, we yielded to the innate perversity of the Indian. We made +a wild-eyed, starved group, warming our fingers around the little blaze +as it snapped up through the still, wet morning air. The teapot was just +beginning to boil, the pork was just sizzling, when we sprang to our +feet. A crash of antlers, as though two bulls were fighting, sounded not +a hundred yards away. The noise was perfectly clear, having a metallic +ring to it, and was caused by moose horns striking a hard substance. + +Again. Without a word, we seized our rifles, and left our breakfast and +fire, and I never saw that spot afterward. Again came the sound, still +distinct, but further off, this time like a birch canoe dragged through +alders. The animal had been on the runway which crossed at the foot of +the hill we were camped on when he scented the fresh-lit fire. Well, to +make a long story short, we followed that trail three weary hours of +running and creeping through frightful swamps and thickets, hearing +every few minutes the sound just ahead of us, but with never a sight of +the game. His huge tracks, which we crossed now and again, showed he was +not even trotting. Nearly exhausted, we kept following the sound +directly, and so cutting across and gaining on him. Once he seemed just +ahead, and we expected to see him each second; but we had to pay for the +luxury of that fire, as for other good things in life, so we never saw a +hair of him. When, at last, completely used up, we burst out on a lake +and saw the muddy tracks and the water still "riled up" where he had +crossed, Jocko swore he heard him crash up the opposite bank; but we +were at the end of our strength and could go no further. A man must eat +sometimes, even on a moose hunt. + +Now comes the really tragical part of this episode; our canoe was not +twenty feet from where this perverse animal had entered the water, and +we were on the little pond where our permanent camp stood. Still we felt +encouraged, for, as Chabot said that night, "Hear him now, see him +pretty soon." But not for many days. + +One more sample to encourage would-be moose hunters, and then we will +kill a moose just to show how easy it is. Two nights after the above +adventure we changed our camp and the weather at the same time. It was +clear now, but it grew very cold, and made night work in the canoe a +horror. + +It was my brother's turn to call, and I was just dropping off to sleep +in my tent, within a few feet of the lake shore, when from the other +side of the water, about a quarter of a mile distant, a bull moose +called. On the cold, still air it rang out like a trumpet--a long call, +very different from the call made by Indian hunters. Jocko, who was with +me in camp, was frantic with excitement, especially as my brother, who +must have heard it, did not answer. Again the call sounded. The bull +must be on the shore. I thought he might swim over. Then came the +answering call, close at hand, of a cow. Jocko laughed and whispered, +"Chabot call him." Then there was silence for a few minutes, followed by +a final bellow, evidently further off. The mock cow bawled and screamed +and bleated frantically, but no sound came back. My brother and his man +kept it up until late that night, and then came to the camp almost +frozen. That incident ruined my faith in calling, for every condition of +wind and weather was perfect, and Chabot's calling apparently most +enticing. + +After this and similar episodes, we left the Kwingwishe country, after +hunting it carefully as far north as Sassanega Lake. We passed Sair's +Lake and the Bois Franc, and finally reached the Little Beauchene. Near +the last lake my brother killed a young bull moose, whose meat was the +first fresh food, except partridge, we had had for over three weeks. It +was delicious, and we felt the change of diet at once in increased +strength and energy. For continuous use moose meat is much superior to +other venison, as it is of a rich flavor which does not readily pall on +the taste. The myth about moose muffle being such a hunters' delicacy +has never allured me to actually eat it, but I suppose a starving man +might, after consuming his boots, manage to swallow it. + +There were many fresh signs in the neighborhood of the Little Beauchene +Lake, but some lumbermen had arrived a few days before us and had +scared the game away. This starting the quarry is the real difficulty in +moose hunting; for, when once disturbed, the bull leaves with all his +kith and kin, so the only chance in these regions is to find him +immediately on arrival in a new district and before he comes across your +tracks. + +Still working slowly southward, we hunted more back ponds, until at last +my turn came on the twenty-seventh hunting day. Let no man say that +moose hunting is a picnic. + +We had camped on a little strip of land, between a pond and a long +narrow swamp, about 4 o'clock on a beautiful afternoon. Leaving my +brother and Jocko to eat dinner in comfort, I started to the head of the +swamp. The water was so low that we could barely force the light canoe +through the lily-pads. Old moose signs were plenty. A family of moose +had evidently been there all summer, but until we reached the upper end +we saw no fresh tracks. The sluggish stream we were on drained a shallow +lake, and, after a few hard plunges, our canoe floated clear of the mud +into the silent waters of a circular pond. It was a basin about a half +mile across, surrounded by low hardwood hills, and so shallow that a +moose, I think, could have waded across the deepest part. The shores +were marked up with some very large tracks, but fresh signs had long +since ceased to excite in me anything more than a passing interest. We +made the tour of the lake slowly and quietly. Nothing was in sight +except four wood ducks. This was "last chance" pond, and if I got no +moose here, we must return to Mattawa for another outfit, which I had +about made up my mind to do. The night settled still and cold--oh, so +cold!--and the stars came out with wonderful distinctness. + +What was that? + +Chabot had started up, listened, and a second later was driving the +birch across the lake noiselessly. As we neared the shore, it was inky +black--a mammoth would not have been visible ten yards away. Twigs +breaking at long intervals told that something was on shore just in +cover of the bushes. We waited some time and at last I whispered to +Chabot, "Muckwa?" (bear). + +"Not muckwa--cow," answered the guide. + +As he spoke, the short call of a bull floated out on the cold air from +the side of the pond that we had just left. I think Chabot was right +about the cow being in the bushes, but he may have been mistaken--one's +hearing becomes unnaturally sensitive after a few weeks' continuous +straining to catch and distinguish the most distant sounds. But there +was no mistake about that bull's call. He was well back from the shore +on the hillside. The wind was wrong, and, although he grunted at +intervals for an hour, he paid no attention to Chabot's most seductive +pleadings. We imitated with paddles the splashings of a cow walking in +the shallow water, but this and other devices had no effect. When at +last even my Indian could no longer bear the bitter cold of the wind +which had sprung up, we started for camp. Long past midnight we crawled +into our blankets, and I dropped asleep cursing the day I had first gone +after moose. + +We were on that pond again before daylight. Not a sound to be heard, not +a living thing to be seen, when the sun rose. We took our stand on a +small point opposite the outlet and watched. I sat on a fallen tree +motionless, hour after hour. Chabot dozed beside me. Those four ducks +played and fed within thirty feet, and a muskrat worked at +house-building a few yards away. The silence was intense. There was not +a breath of wind. I knew my brother was doing the same thing on a +neighboring pond, and I fell to thinking whether there was some special +Nemesis about this hunt, or it was the fault of the guides. I glanced at +the outlet in front of me, about a half mile distant. + +There was a moose, stalking with the utmost deliberation along the edge +of the woods and then into the shallow water. + +Chabot was roused by a hasty shake, and a second later the canoe was +flying across the lake. As we crossed, I inspected the moose closely. He +was walking slowly, nibbling the long reed-like grass that stuck up from +the water. His neck seemed very stiff, and he swung his legs from his +hips and shoulders. The hump was extremely conspicuous, perhaps because +his head was carried low to get at the grass. He was a young bull, +nearly full grown, and with small antlers. He looked occasionally at the +canoe, now fast nearing him; but we had the advantage of the wind, and +the sun was going down behind us. It was just 5 o'clock. He walked, now +out toward us, now back to shore, as though about to bolt for the bush, +but working slowly toward the north, where we afterwards found a +much-used runway, leading to the marsh my brother was watching, two +miles away. I opened fire about fifty yards off, when the moose was +standing in about a foot of water, looking suspiciously at us. The shot +was too high, but struck him in the shoulder. He started in a lumbering +gallop along the shore. I fired again. This turned him into the woods at +an old lumber road. We heard the twigs snap sharply for a minute, and +then a heavy crash and silence. I thought we had lost him, but Chabot +declared that he was down. I sprang ashore the moment the canoe +grounded, and dashed in on his trail, which was perfectly clear on the +soft moss. Looking ahead through the open woods for the animal, which I +thought had turned, I almost fell over his prostrate body. + +His head rested against a small windfall, which he had tried to +clear--an effort which appeared to have cost him his life. Moss hung +from some small spruce trees close by, which had been kicked up in the +death struggle. The shoulder shot had been the fatal one, but he had +been hard hit in the side too. + +He was not full grown, and measured only 5 feet 6-1/2 inches in height, +and 8 feet 3-1/4 inches in length, from the nose to root of tail. His +girth at the shoulder was 5 feet 11-1/4 inches. His nose showed none of +the Jewish characteristics which taxidermists are fond of giving their +mounted moose heads. The forehead and shoulders were brownish instead of +black, like the rest of the body. The hindlegs were wholly white, as +were the forelegs below the knee. I am inclined to think he was a ranger +moose, but could not tell with certainty, as his horns were too +undeveloped. The velvet was still hanging in places, but very dry. This +was unusual, as it was the 10th of October. + +Ordering Chabot to dress the moose, I went back to the canoe, having +decided to watch until dark, although there seemed no possibility of +seeing another moose after the firing. My lazy guide, instead of obeying +my order, merely cut the skin, with the result that all the meat +spoiled--probably just what he wanted, fearing he would have to portage +it out of the bush. We returned to our point and dozed again. At a +quarter of 7 it was getting dark fast, and in the north a black, +ugly-looking cloud was gathering. We might as well go back to camp if it +was going to blow and rain, so I told Chabot to shove off and to give +one last toot of his horn, just for luck. + +The air was still as death with the dread of the impending storm. Chabot +took up the coiled birch, and the echoes rang out with a short grunting +call, which so much resembles a man chopping wood. Before they died +away, there came from behind us, just to our right, the unmistakable +answering grunt of a bull moose. He was probably on his way to the lake, +and our call merely hastened him and brought him out into the open +before it was too dark to shoot. He was very near and came steadily +forward, stopping now and then to listen. We could hear him plainly as +his horns broke the twigs at every step--once or twice he lashed the +bushes with them. He repeated his grunts, ungh! ungh! every few steps. +He was so evidently reckless that, to take no chance, I allowed Chabot +to answer only once--with the short call. I say short call, in +distinction to the long modulated call which is used to good purpose in +Maine and New Brunswick, but which I have never known to succeed in this +part of Canada. The moose paused for a moment in the alders that formed +a close thicket at the water's edge, and I feared he had seen or scented +us; then suddenly and noiselessly he stepped out from a cove a short +hundred yards away. He had taken less than ten minutes from the first +call to his appearance. + +At the first alarm we had pushed off and were floating quietly just by +the shore. The water was so shallow that the birch made, to my ears at +least, a frightful scraping as it pushed over the dead sticks that lay +in the water, and the wind was unfavorable. I never shall forget the +appearance that bull made as he stepped fiercely and proudly out, with +his head up, swinging a splendid set of antlers as lightly as straws. He +did not see us, but strode about ten yards into the shallow lake, where +the water scarcely covered his hoofs, and, first glancing away for a +second, turned like a flash and faced us full, looking down on us in +surprised disgust. He was greatly excited and the mane on his hump was +erect, increasing his natural height, and there was nothing timid or +deer-like in his appearance. I have seen in the arena a bull step out +from the darkened stall into the glare of sunlight, and gaze for a +moment at the picadors with a sort of indignant surprise; so this great +bull moose looked. + +We gazed motionless at each other, I knowing that it was one of the +grandest and rarest sights on the American continent, and he thinking, +no doubt, what a disgraceful imitation of a cow the motionless canoe +made. Chabot's breath was coming hard behind me, and I felt the birch +bark quiver. + +As I raised my rifle, I realized that it had suddenly grown very dark +under this western bank, and the bull precisely resembled in color the +background, and, large as he was, made a very poor mark. The tall grass, +which I had looked over in watching him, now sticking up in front of the +sights, bothered me. I fired at the root of his neck, and the rifle gave +a suppressed roar in the heavy air and the smoke hung like a pall. The +bull ran straight forward, hesitated as though about to charge, then +turned and made wonderful speed along the lake shore. The moment I could +see him I fired again. In the dim twilight he was almost out of sight. +When the smoke cleared he was gone. + +Neither of us moved. It was too frightful to miss such an immense +creature at that range. We heard him crash up the hillside and then stop +a short distance back in the wood. Then I knew he either was down or had +turned, unless he had found an open lumber road, where his horns would +make no sound; for a moose can go in the most mysterious manner when he +chooses to be quiet--but there was nothing quiet about this bull. + +Chabot declared that he had heard him cough, but I did not believe it. I +pointed to the spot where he had entered the bush, and a moment later +the canoe grated on the beach. There were the huge tracks with the hoofs +wide spread, and the trail entering an old lumber road. + +All this took less time to happen than to read, and yet it was now dark, +so quickly had night fallen. By straining my eyes I saw it was 7 +o'clock--just two hours after the first bull was killed. Chabot wanted +to go back to camp, which was the proper thing to do, especially as I +had now just one cartridge left. I had only taken a handful with me that +morning. + +We entered the forest foot by foot, Chabot following the trail where I +could scarcely see to step. A few yards in and the track turned from the +old road into the thick bush, and we knew the moose was near. A little +further, and we scarcely moved--stepping like cats from tree to tree, +expecting every second to hear an angry grunt and have the bull emerge +from the impenetrable veil of night that hung around us. + +At last we came to a windfall, and we were for some time at a loss to +find whether he had gone across or around it. In lighting a match with +extreme caution, the light fell on a tall moose wood stem about as large +as one's finger. Four feet from the ground it was dripping with bright +red blood. The coughing Chabot had heard was now, we thought, explained, +and the game hard hit. We decided to go back to camp; for, as my guide +put it very clearly, the wounded bull would either fight or run. I +wasn't anxious for the first alternative in the dark and tangled wood, +with one cartridge; and the second meant a long chase on the morrow. If +we left him until the morning, he would be either dead or too stiff from +his wound to go far. + +So back we went to camp, amply repaid by the events of two hours for +weeks of hardship and exposure. Just at daylight the next morning, as we +were leaving camp, prepared to take and keep the trail of that bull if +it led to Hudson Bay, my brother appeared with Jocko. He had had no +breakfast, and had come a long distance through a frightful bush in +order to be in at the death, as he had heard the firing, and shrewdly +suspected that in the dusk a wounded moose was the result. + +"From the tracks at my lake," said he, as he strode up to the fire, +"there are two bull moose around here--a large and a small one; which +did you get?" + +"Both," replied Chabot. + +We took the trail at the water's edge, and found it smeared with blood. +The bull could not have gone far. A short walk brought us to the +windfall where we had turned back the night before, and which had seemed +so deep in the woods. + +A hundred yards beyond it lay the bull on his right side. The second +shot had struck him in the center of the left ham and ranged through +him. The meat was spoiled, as was the hide--that is, the hair came out +so badly that it was not worth while to prepare it; but the neck and +scalp were perfect, except a bad scar on the forehead, received in +fighting. + +He was a grand sight as he lay dead in that silent autumn forest--for I +never can get over the impression that somehow or other the moose is a +survival of a long past order of nature, a fit comrade for the mammoth +and the cave bear. He was short and thickset, with immense chest +power--probably a swamp moose. The neck was short and stout, and he had +a Jewish cast of nose. No bell--merely the common dewlap. He measured at +the shoulder 6 feet 6 inches; 9 feet 8-1/2 inches from nose to tip of +tail; girth at shoulders, 6 feet 2-1/2 inches. We skinned and +decapitated the moose, one after the other. The meat of both was +completely spoiled, and it seemed wicked to leave those two huge +carcasses to the bears and wolves; but there was no help for it, so we +started for Mattawa. I doubt if we could have carried out any of the +meat if we had tried, for we had to throw away everything not absolutely +necessary on the long portages that followed. At last we reached +Rosiceau's, on Snake Lake, and, with the welcome the old man gave us, +felt quite at home once more. Then passing by the scenes of a former +hunt, we reached Fort Eddy, an old Hudson Bay post, and then the Ottawa +River. We ran the Cave rapids, and at sundown on a beautiful day the +town of Mattawa swung in sight, and the hunt was over. + +The country we had traversed contained little except bears and moose. We +saw a few caribou tracks, and brought home with us a curious caribou +antler, which we found in the woods. + +The fur animals have, within the last five years, been exterminated, and +the very few beaver that survive have abandoned their old habits, and +live in holes in the banks of the larger streams. We found traces of one +of these bank beaver, but he was probably traveling and we could not +catch him. A few mink were shot, but the country is completely stripped +of everything else of value. If the present law, prohibiting the +trapping of otter and beaver, can be enforced, perhaps the land may be +restocked, but it will take years. It is fit for nothing except fur and +timber, and, with efficient game wardens, could be made to produce a +large return from these sources. Partridges and loons abounded, but +ducks were seldom seen. + +The lakes form a complete system of communication by means of easy +portages, but there are no streams that contain trout and no springs to +supply drinking water. This lack of fresh water caused us considerable +suffering, as the lake water is supposed to be dangerous, and a pail of +spring water, which we got at the start, was carried for days over +portages as our most precious baggage. We did not see a sign of a brook +trout during the entire trip, and I do not believe that there were any +in the waters we traversed. There may have been lake trout, but our +trolling produced only pike and pickerel. + +This absence of small game and fish makes the country very +uninteresting, and the long monotony between most exciting events is the +greatest drawback to hunting on the Upper Ottawa. + +_Madison Grant._ + + + + +A Hunting Trip in India + + +Early in 1881 I landed at Bombay, intending to get as many varieties of +big game shooting as possible during the course of the year. I was well +armed with introductions, including many from the Department of State, +and during my stay in India was treated by the English military +officers, civil officials, planters and merchants with a hearty +hospitality which I cordially appreciated. Thanks to this hospitality, +and to the readiness with which all to whom I was introduced fell into +my plans, I was able to get a rather unusually varied quantity of sport. + +My first trip was in March, after tigers. On the 1st of March I started +from Hyderabad with Colonels Fraser and Watson, and traveled by +palanquin that day and night, and most of the next day, striking the +foot of the G[=a]t at a place called Rungapore, and then going on over a +great plain, beyond which we camped. The scenery was magnificent, and +we heard much news of the devastation of tigers among the large herds of +miserable-looking cattle belonging to the poor villagers roundabout. The +thermometer went up to 96 degrees in the shade during the day, but the +nights were lovely and cool. Thanks to Colonel Fraser, we were fitted +out as comfortably as we could be, and the luxury of the camp life +offered the strongest possible contrast to my experiences in roughing it +on the buffalo range in northwestern Texas. + +For the first two days we accomplished nothing, though several of the +cattle we had put out for baits were killed, and though we started and +beat the jungles with our elephants whenever we received khubber, or +news. Our camp equipage included twenty elephants, forty camels and +bullocks, thirty horses for the troopers, and fifty baggage horses. We +had seventeen private servants, twenty-six police, fifty-two bearers, +and an indefinite number of attendants for the elephants and camels, and +of camp followers. An Indian of high position, Sir Salar Jung, was along +also; so our total retinue comprised 350 men, in addition to which we +employed each day of beaters 150 or 200 more. + +On March 5th, one of the shikaris brought word that he had seen and +heard a tigress and two cubs at a nullah about six miles away. +Immediately we started up the valley, Col. Fraser, Col. Watson and +myself, each on his own elephant. The jungle was on fire and the first +beat was not successful, for we had to fight the fire, and in the +excitement the brute got off. However, some of the watchers saw her, and +marked her down in another small ravine. Through this we again beat, the +excitement being at fever heat. I was, of course, new to the work, and +the strangeness of the scene, the cries of the beaters and watchers, the +occasional explosion of native fireworks, together with the quantity of +other game that we saw, impressed me much. In this ravine I was favored +by good luck. The tigress broke right in front of me, and I hit her with +a ball from a No. 12 smooth-bore. She sickened at once and crawled back +into the jungle. In we went on the elephants, tracking her up. She made +no attempt to charge, and I finished her off with another barrel of the +smooth-bore and two express bullets. The crowd of natives ran up, +abusing the tigress and praising me, while the two colonels drank my +health. We then padded the tigress and rode back to camp, having been +gone from half past 9 in the morning till 7 in the evening. This tigress +weighed, when we brought her in, 280 pounds; her living weight must have +been much more. + +Next day we again got news of a tigress, with one cub, but we failed to +find her. The following day, for a change, I tried still-hunting through +the woods. There was not much game, but what we did see was far from +shy, and the shooting was easy. The camp was on a terrace, and from it +we went up a range of hills to the stalking ground. It was a stony +country and the trees were scrubby. I shot two cheetul, or spotted deer, +and also two of the little jungle cocks. The next day again was a blank, +but on the 9th we got another tiger. Thanks to the courtesy of my +friends, I was given the first shot, again hitting it with one barrel of +the smooth-bore. The heat was very great on this day. It was not +possible to touch the gun barrels without a glove, and the thirst was +awful. In the evening the cool bath was a luxury indeed. By moonlight +the camp was very fine. The next morning I was off at daybreak, snipe +shooting around a big tank, seven miles away. On my return I found that +my companions had gone out for a beat, and so, after a hurried +breakfast, I jumped on my horse and rode after them. That afternoon we +beat two ravines and got a tiger. This was the last tiger that we +killed. The weather was getting very warm, and, though we stayed a week +longer out, we failed to get on terms with Mr. Stripes again. However, I +shot three sambur stags. Two of them were weighed in camp, their weight +being, respectively, 450 and 438 pounds. + +It was now getting hot, and I determined to start northward for my +summer's hunting in the Himalayas and Cashmere, although it was rather +early to try to get through the mountains. I left Lahore on April 6th +for the Pir Pinjal. My transportation consisted of eight pack ponies and +three native single-horse carts. I was shown every courtesy by Mr. +McKay, a member of the Forest Department, at Gujarat. I intended to make +a hunt for gorals and bears in the mountains around the Pir Pinjal +before striking through to Cashmere. The goral is a little mountain +antelope, much like the chamois, only with straight horns. The bear in +the region in which I was hunting was the black bear, which is very +much like our own black bear. Further on in the Himalayas is found the +red or snow bear, which is a good deal like the great brown bear of +Europe, or a small and inoffensive grizzly. After leaving Gujarat, I +traveled for several days before coming to my hunting ground proper, +although on the way I killed some peacocks, partridges, and finally some +very handsome pheasants of different kinds. The country offered the +greatest possible contrast to that in which I had been hunting tigers. +Everything was green and lovely, and the scenery was magnificent beyond +description--the huge steep mountains rising ahead of me, while the +streams were crystal-clear, noisy torrents. The roads were very rough, +and the wild flowers formed great carpets everywhere. + +On the 16th of April I began my shooting, having by this time left my +heavy baggage behind, and having with me only what the coolies could +carry. I had two shikaris, four servants and twelve coolies, besides +myself. On April 16th I killed my first goral. I had hunted in vain all +day, but about 5 o'clock one of the shikaris advised my starting out +again and climbing around the neighboring cliffs. I did this for two +and one-half hours, and then got a close shot and killed the little +beast. This was my first trial of grass-shoes, and my first experience +in climbing over the stupendous mountain masses; for stupendous they +were, though they were only the foothills of the Himalayas proper. +Without grass-shoes it is impossible to climb on these smooth, grassy +slopes; but I found that they hurt my feet a great deal. The next day I +again went off with my two shikaris over the mountains. Each of them +carried a gun. I had all I could do to take care of myself without one, +for a mis-step would have meant a fall of a thousand or two feet. In the +morning we saw five gorals and I got one. At 10 I stopped and a coolie +came up with a lunch, and I lay reading, sleeping and idly watching the +grand mountains until the afternoon, when we began again to examine the +nullahs for game, being all the time much amused by the monkeys. At 4 we +started again, and in a jagged mass of precipices I got another goral. +The next day I repeated my experience, and had one of the characteristic +bits of bad luck, offset by good luck, that come to every +hunter--missing a beautiful shot at fifty yards, and then, by a fluke, +killing a goral at 300 yards. The animal, however, fell over 1,000 feet +and was ruined. I myself had a slip this day and went down about fifty +feet. The following day I again went off to climb, and the first ascent +was so steep that at the top I was completely blown, and missed a +beautiful shot at a goral at fifty yards. I then arranged a beat, but +nothing came from it, and the morning was a blank. In the afternoon I +gave up beating and tried still-hunting again. It was hard work, but I +was very successful, and killed two gorals and a bear. + +At this time I was passed by two English officers, also going in to +shoot--one of them, Captain S. D. Turnbull, a very jolly fellow and a +good sportsman, with whom I got on excellent terms; the other, a Captain +C., was a very bad walker and a poor shot, and was also a disagreeable +companion, as he would persist in trying to hang around my hunting +grounds, thus forcing me continually to shift. + +On April 21st I tried driving for gorals, and got four, and on the next +two days I got three gorals and two bears. So far I had had great luck +and great sport. The work was putting me in fine trim, except my feet, +which were getting very sore. It was very hard work going after the +gorals. The bears offered easier stalking, and, like our American black +bear but unlike our grizzly, they didn't show fight. The climbing was +awful work. The stones and grass-shoes combined bruised and skinned the +soles of my feet, so that I could not get relief without putting them in +clarified butter and then keeping them up in the air. Accordingly I +tried resting for a day, and meant to rest the following day too; but +could not forbear taking a four hours' stroll along the banks of the +brawling, snow-fed river, and was rewarded by shooting a surow--a queer, +squatty, black antelope, about the size of a Rocky Mountain white goat +and with similar horns. The next day I rested again, hoping my feet +would get better. Instead they got worse, and I made up my mind that, as +they were so bad, I might as well get some hunting anyhow, so off I +tramped on the 27th for another all-day jog. It would be difficult to +describe the pain that my feet gave me all day long. However, it was a +real sporting day. I suffered the tortures of the damned, but I got two +gorals and one tahr--a big species of goat with rather small horns--and +then hobbled back to camp. Next day I stayed quietly in camp, and then +started back to the camp where I had left my heavy baggage. On the way I +picked up another black bear. My feet were in a frightful condition, but +I had had a fortnight's excellent sport. + +I then went on to Cashmere, and on May 6th reached Siringur. The scenery +was beautiful beyond description, and the whole life of the natives very +attractive to look at. However, something did not agree with me, for I +was very sick and had to go to bed for several days. There were one or +two American friends there, and these and the Englishmen, to whom I had +letters of introduction, treated me with extreme courtesy. As soon as I +got well, I started off for the real mountains, hoping especially to get +ibex and markhoor. The ibex is almost exactly the same as the European +animal of that name. The markhoor is a magnificent goat, with long +whitish hair and great spiral horns. They also have in these Cashmere +valleys a big stag called the barramigh, which is a good deal like our +wapiti, only not half so large. On May 21st I started off, first by +boat, but I was bothered from the beginning by chills and fever. I was +weak, and glad I didn't have to march. At first, all I did in shooting +was to have my coolies beat some brush patches near camp. Out of one of +them they started a little musk-deer, which I shot. Soon I began to get +very much better and we took up our march. I was going toward Astor, but +encountered much snow, as it was still early in the season for these +high mountains. I saw some grand barramigh, but their horns were, of +course, only just growing, and I didn't molest them. + +Very soon I got into a country where the red bears literally swarmed. +From May 26th to June 5th, during which time I was traveling and hunting +all the time, I shot no less than sixteen, together with two musk-deer, +but saw nothing else. The marching was very hard, and some of the passes +dangerous. I met a British officer, Lieutenant Carey, on the 30th, who +treated me very well indeed. The scenery was very beautiful, although +rather bleak. I did not pick up strength as much as I had hoped. On June +3d I christened my camp Camp Good Luck, because of the phenomenal +success I had with the bears. That morning we left by 4 to cross the +river before the snow had melted. The thermometer would go down to 30 +degrees, even in the valleys, at night, so that everything would freeze, +and then would go up to 110 in the day, and when the snow melted the +streams would come down in a perfect torrent. Not two miles beyond the +river I saw three bears on the side of a hill, a she and two +two-year-old cubs. My shikari made a splendid stalk and brought me +within forty yards, and I got all three with a shot apiece. The delight +of my camp followers was amusing. I then left the tents, and, taking +only my blankets and a lunch basket with me, started off again. At +midday I slept, and at 2 o'clock started up the nullah, seeing a number +of bears. One of them I got within fifty yards, and two others, right +and left, at 100 yards. The skinning took a long time, and the stream +which I had to cross was up with the evening flood, so that I didn't get +back to camp until 10 o'clock. I had shot unusually well, I had been +happy and was all tired out, and it is needless to say how I slept. + +Soon after this I began to suffer from fever, and I had to work very +hard indeed, as I was now on the ibex ground. For several days, though I +saw ibex, I was unable to get near them. Finally, on June 9th, I got my +first one, a young buck with small horns. I had to hunt way up the +mountain, even beyond bush vegetation, and the hot sun at midday was +awful. Nevertheless, by very hard climbing, I managed on this day to get +within shot first of a herd of nine females, which I did not touch, and +then of the young buck, which I killed. On June 13th, by another +heart-breaking climb, very high up, I got a second small buck. I did not +get back to camp that night till half past 9--tired out, feet badly cut +with the stones and bruised all over; but in spite of the fever I +enjoyed every day--the scenery was so grand and the life so +exhilarating. Four days afterwards came a red-letter day. I started +early in the morning, clambering up among the high mountains. Until noon +I saw nothing; then several flocks of ibex came in sight, one of them of +eleven big bucks. I had to wait four hours to get into a position to +stalk; then by quick work and awful climbing I came within close range +and killed three. It was half past 10 in the evening before I got back +to camp, very nearly done up, but exultant over my good luck. + +The traveling now became very severe and I had a great deal of +difficulty even with the coolies, and though I hunted hard I got little +game until July 8th. I had been shifting, trying to get on markhoor +ground, and on this day I killed my first markhoor. The shikaris and I +left the coolies to go around the path while we went over the mountain, +a five hours' climb, keeping a sharp lookout for game. Just at the +beginning of the ascent we saw three fine-looking markhoor grazing in a +nullah, and after a stalk of about a mile, during which time it began to +rain, the beasts went into a jungle on the steep side of the mountain. +Through this we still-hunted and I got a shot through the bushes at 100 +yards. By good luck I hit and great was the rejoicing. Five days later I +got two ibex, which at a distance we had mistaken for markhoor. Then I +was attacked by a terrible dysentery and was within an ace of dying. For +a fortnight I was unable to leave camp, excepting when I was carried +slowly along by the coolies in the effort to get me out of the +mountains. On August 1st I shot a second markhoor. We were journeying at +the time. In the very rough places I had to walk, though awfully weak; +elsewhere the coolies carried me. The markhoor was just below us, round +a turn in the Indus Valley. I was in advance with one of the shikaris +and got a quiet shot, and more by good luck than anything else--for I +was very weak--I killed. I now began gradually to pick up strength, and +when near Astor I got a urial, a kind of wild sheep. + +I had no other experience of note till I got back to Siringur, where I +stayed to recuperate, and at the end of August went off once more into +the foothills, this time after barramigh. In a week's work I killed +three, but again became sick, and had to give up and come in. + +I forthwith returned to India, the hot weather being by this time pretty +well over. As I was very anxious to kill an elephant, I went down to +Ceylon, reaching that island the end of October and going out to Kandy. +I met a number of Englishmen, who were very kind to me, as were some +Eurasian gentlemen. On November 16th I left Minerva for a regular hunt. +It was very interesting shooting through the tropical jungle and I had +good luck. There were plenty of elephants, but at first I didn't get +any, though I shot five spotted deer and a boar. Finally, however, I got +two of the big brutes I was mainly after. One of them, which I killed on +the 20th of the month, was said to be a rogue that had killed two +villagers and done at intervals a good deal of damage to the crops. An +old native tracker had guaranteed to show me this elephant. He kept his +word. For three or four miles we had a very exciting track, and then +came on him standing in the jungle, occasionally flapping his ears, and +crept up to within thirty yards. I think he was asleep and I got a +perfectly good shot, but, extraordinary to say, I missed. However, when +he ran I went after him, and, getting very close, I shot him in the hip, +so injuring his leg that he could not get away. He could still get round +after us, and we passed a most lively half-hour, he trumpeting and +charging incessantly, until, after expending a great quantity of +cartridges, I finally put a bullet behind his eye, and down he went. + +Soon after this I went back to Kandy, and early in December left India +for good. + +_Elliott Roosevelt._ + + + + +[Illustration: HOW OUR OUTFIT WAS CARRIED.] + +Dog Sledging in the North + + +A good many years ago, my friends, Boies Penrose, Granville Keller, and +I concluded that it would be a fitting termination to a very successful +summer and fall hunting trip in the Rocky Mountains to endeavor to kill +some moose and caribou in the Lake Winnipeg country, Manitoba. Thus we +should combine very different kinds of sport amid surroundings more +dissimilar than we imagined at the time. The whole of this rather +memorable trip occupied nearly six months. + +Our adventures during the latter part of the hunt, that is, during our +sojourn in the far north--while a part of the every-day experience of +those familiar with the winter life in the woods of that country--were +of a character totally unknown to the majority of sportsmen in the +United States, and for this reason it has been thought worth while to +give a short account of them. + +If my recollection serves me correctly, we arrived at Selkirk, at the +lower end of Lake Winnipeg, in the latter part of October, to find +navigation already closed. We had hoped to reach the upper part of the +lake by means of a steamer, but found this impossible, and were +therefore obliged to go on sleds to our first hunting ground--a moose +country to the south of the head waters of the Fisher River, between +Lake Winnipeg and Lake Winnipegosis. + +At Selkirk we were joined by a Mr. Phillips, and we had there employed +an Indian boy to look after the dogs. This Indian was a magnificent +specimen physically, and certainly the best walker that I have ever +known. With the exception of a pardonable fondness for our whisky, he +behaved very well at first, but afterward became so insufferably lazy +that he was scarcely fit for the simple work of driving one of the dog +teams--a change which was to be attributed entirely to our kind +treatment of him. He was, however, a good trailer, but the worst shot +that I remember to have met. He seemed to have no difficulty in finding +moose, but could not hit them, which was the exact reverse of our +experience. + +Portions of the country between Lakes Winnipeg and Winnipegosis, +visited by our party, are as flat as the flattest portions of New +Jersey, and for great distances nothing could be more level except +possibly a billiard table. It is traversed by very few rivers or even +creeks, there being immense stretches of territory where the only guide +back to camp is the sun when it shines, or when it does not your +compass, or the dog-sled trail through the snow leading to the camp. The +different portions of this region are so much alike that it is almost +impossible to tell one from another. + +Owing to the fact that it is very dangerous to be caught out over night, +with the thermometer ranging anywhere from zero to 50 degrees below, we +took the precaution to mount a big red flag in the top of the highest +spruce we could find near our camp, so that, by climbing a high tree +anywhere within a radius of a mile or so, one could easily see this +flag. To still further reduce the chance of getting lost, we blazed the +trees in a straight line for four miles due south of the camp, and, as +the dog-sled trail came into our camp (which was in the heavy timber) +from the north, it was not difficult to find one's way home in the +evening. These precautions--needless elsewhere, but wise in this +country--were taken principally because each of us had always been in +the habit for years of hunting alone--a practice which I would recommend +to anyone who desires to be really successful in killing big game. + +This vast expanse of flat country is quite heavily wooded over large +areas, the timber being spruce, tamarack, poplar, birch, etc., with a +great abundance of red and gray willow. The underbrush is sometimes very +thick. There are, however, innumerable open places, which bear the local +name of muskegs. These are, of course, marshes in summer, and covered +with a heavy growth of grass; in winter they are frozen hard, and +traveling over them is comparatively easy. + +The moose seem to be fond of remaining close to the edges of these +muskegs, which are usually fringed with a heavy growth of willows. It +would appear, however, that they venture out into these open places +either during the night, early in the morning, or late in the afternoon; +and, as these were the times when we were very glad either to be in camp +or to be returning to it, we had more success in finding the moose in +the timber, or on the little so-called ridges, which sometimes attain +the remarkable height of four or five feet. + +Up to the time of leaving this camp we had very little opportunity to +use snowshoes, as the snow was not yet--about the last of November--deep +enough to make these necessary. We hunted all of the time in moccasins, +boots of any description being simply out of the question, as they would +soon freeze as hard as iron. After the cold weather set in, one day's +experience with boots was quite sufficient for me, and I came to the +conclusion, as I had often before in other regions, that it is very +difficult to improve, in the matter of clothing, upon the customs of the +country. The sudden change to moccasins was very tiring at first, but +after one gets used to walking in them he will find that he can walk +further and hunt better in them than any other style of foot-gear. We +used, as I remember, first one or two pairs of heavy woolen socks, then +a very heavy so-called "German" sock, coming up to the knee, over which +we wore the high laced moccasin of the country. + +Before we had very long been engaged in moose hunting we all learned +that we were not so expert in the art of killing big game as we +previously imagined ourselves. In all my experience I have never met +with any animal which is so difficult to get a shot at, even when quite +numerous, as the moose in this region. It must always be borne in mind +that to kill a moose--especially in a country where they have been +hunted for generations by the Indians--by the thoroughly sportsmanlike +method of following the trail of one until you finally get a shot at it +and kill it, is a totally different thing from killing the same moose +either by calling him at night in the autumn or by paddling on him in a +canoe in the summer. In fact, of all the difficult things I have ever +undertaken in the way of sport, I regard this as the most difficult; and +before I got my first shot I began to think that there was a great deal +of truth in the Indian's sneering remark, "White man no kill moose." +Finally one day my luck turned, but that it did so was due more to the +realization of my own inferiority, and lack of the proper kind of +knowledge, than to anything else. + +It happened in this way: having thoroughly convinced myself that the +moose either smelt me or in some other way found out that I was in their +neighborhood before I could be made aware of the same fact, I concluded +that there was something radically wrong in my manner of hunting them, +although I employed every method known to me--methods which had been +acquired in an experience during which I had killed considerably over +one hundred head of big game, throughout the Rockies and the +Alleghanies. In short, I was exceedingly painstaking and careful. +Notwithstanding all my precautions, however, I remember that I had the +satisfaction one night of knowing that I had started during the day +eight different moose, each separately, without hearing or seeing a +single one of them. This sort of thing lasted for twenty-two consecutive +days, or until I finally concluded that, as our Indian seemed to have no +trouble in seeing moose, I would follow his tactics. Waiting, therefore, +one morning until I was sure that the Indian had left camp, I changed my +course so as to intersect his trail, followed this for some distance, +and watched carefully his foot-prints, so as to read the record of his +hunt. + +Pretty soon it became apparent that he had come across a moose trail. He +tried it first with the toe of his moccasin, then with the butt of his +gun, and satisfied himself that it was too old to follow. He went on +until he came across another trail, and evidently had spent considerable +time in making up his mind whether it was worth while to follow this +trail or not. He then followed it for a few yards, and, to my surprise, +suddenly left it, and went off almost at right angles to the leeward. I +supposed that he had given up the moose trail, but nevertheless I +followed further on his track. Again to my surprise, I presently found +him gradually coming around in a circuitous fashion to the trail again, +until he finally reached it. He then immediately retraced his steps, +making another semi-circle, bearing generally, however, in the direction +the moose had gone, and again came to the trail. This occurred four or +five times, until finally the explanation of his conduct flashed upon +me, for there lay his cartridge. I saw--as he afterward described it to +me--where he had shot at the moose, which had just arisen out of its bed +a short distance away, but, as usual, he had missed it. Now I had +noticed, in my three weeks' experience, that I had come upon the moose +either lying down or standing in some thicket, but that they had been +able to wind me considerably before my arrival at the spot marked by +their beds in the snow. Not until then had occurred to me what is well +known to many who still-hunt moose, namely, that before lying down they +generally make a long loop to the leeward, returning close to their +trail, so that they can readily get the wind of anyone following upon it +long before he reaches them, when, of course, they quietly get up and +sneak away. In fact, they do not seem to have an atom of curiosity in +their composition, and in this are different from most other wild +animals that I have known. By making these long loops to the leeward the +hunter reduces to a minimum the likelihood of being smelt or heard by +the moose; and in these animals the senses of smell and hearing are very +acute, although their eyesight seems to be bad. + +Having quite satisfied myself as to what it was necessary to do, I +waited until the next day to put it into execution, because by the time +I had made my discovery it was about half past 2 o'clock, and the sun +was near the horizon. + +The following day I went out bright and early, and, after varying +success in finding a good trail, I ran across a trail made by five bull +moose, a photograph of one of which is shown. After satisfying myself +that the trail had been made during the previous night, I began making +the long loops to the leeward which I had found to be so necessary. I +finally came to the place where the moose had lain down--a bed showing +one of them to have unusually large horns--but they had gone on again, +in a manner, however, that showed that they were merely feeding, and not +alarmed. I redoubled my precautions, stepping as if on eggs, so as not +to break the twigs underneath my feet. In a short time I heard the +significant chattering of one of the little red pine squirrels so +abundant in that region. I at once knew that the squirrel had seen +something, but had not seen me. It did not take me long to make up my +mind that the only other living things in that vicinity which would be +likely to cause him to chatter were these moose, and that they were +probably startled, although I had not been conscious of making any +noise. At any rate, I ran quite rapidly toward the end of a small narrow +muskeg on my left, but some distance away, to which chance conclusion +and prompt action I owe probably one of the most fortunate and exciting +pieces of shooting that has occurred in my experience. I was shooting at +that time a little double rifle (.450-120-375 solid bullet), which had +been made for me by Holland & Holland, and which was fitted with one of +my conical sights. + +Before I was within fifty yards of the end of the muskeg, I saw one of +the moose dash across it, about 150 yards away. I fired quickly, and in +much the same way that I would shoot at a jacksnipe which had been +flushed in some thicket; but had the satisfaction of seeing the animal +lurch heavily forward as he went out of sight into the timber. Almost +immediately, and before I had time to reload, the second moose followed. +I gave him the other barrel, but I did not know until afterward that he +was hit. In fact, it was hard to get a bullet through the timber. I +reloaded quickly, and ran forward to get to the opening; but before I +reached it, the third moose passed in immediately behind the others. I +again shot quickly, and felt that I had probably hit him. By running on +rapidly I reached the edge of the opening in time to intercept the +fourth moose. As he came into the opening I got a good shot at him, not +over eighty yards distant, and felt very sure of this one at least. I +then reloaded, when, to my amazement, the fifth, in a very deliberate +manner, walked, not trotted, into the muskeg, which at the point where +the moose crossed it was not over sixty or seventy feet wide. He first +looked up and down, as if undetermined what to do, and then, probably +seeing one of the other moose on the ground, commenced walking up toward +me. As luck would have it, I got a cartridge jammed in my rifle, and +could not pull it out or knock it in, although I nearly ruined my +fingers in my attempt to do so. Of course, this was the biggest bull of +all, and I had the supreme satisfaction of seeing him deliberately walk +out of my sight into the woods, and he was lost to me forever. His horns +were much larger than those which I got. Up to that time I had no idea +that I had killed any except the last moose that I shot at, but thought +that perhaps I had wounded one or two of the others, feeling that I +would be very lucky if I should ever come up with them. + +Going down to the place where the moose had disappeared, after I had got +my rifle fixed--that is, had extracted the cartridge and put in +another--I found one of the moose dead; another, a big one, on his +knees, and the third a short distance away, looking very dejected and +uncomfortable. I did not know then that the largest bull of all had +stopped on the other side of a little thicket; and when I commenced to +give the finishing touches to the wounded moose in sight, he, +accompanied by another wounded one, got away. As I shot the big one on +his knees, I was surprised by a noise, and upon turning around found the +dejected looking small bull coming full drive toward me. I had only time +to turn around and shoot him in the breast before he was on me. I do not +think that he intended to charge; his coming toward me was probably +entirely accidental. Still it had the effect of sending my heart in my +mouth. I then started out after the wounded one, but when I saw that he +was not bleeding much concluded that, as it was growing late, and I was +seven or eight miles from camp, I would not have more than time to cover +up the three moose with snow so that I could skin them the next morning. +Before doing so, however, I sat down on top of my biggest moose, and, as +these were the first moose that I had ever seen, I surveyed them with a +great deal of satisfaction. + +About this time Phillips, who had been attracted by the shooting, +appeared in the distance, and I hailed him by a shot, when he came to +me. We then carefully covered up the moose with snow and pulled out for +camp. When we arrived there and told our story, a more disconsolate +looking Indian you could not have found in the whole region, and he +doubtless came to the conclusion that his sweeping assertion as to the +inability of a white man to kill a moose in that country was perhaps a +little too broad. + +Our luck seemed to turn from this time and we got several very good +moose, but unfortunately no other large heads. After telling this story +I do not wish to go upon record as a game slaughterer, for those who +know anything of my hunting know that I am strongly opposed to anything +of the kind. We usually have killed only enough game for meat in camp, +but at this time we had to feed beside ourselves ten dogs. Moreover, I +have never thought that the killing of bulls made very much difference +in the amount of the game, although in shooting them we have usually +made it a rule to kill only such heads as we wished to take home. I +should add, moreover, that all the meat that we did not use of the +moose that we killed in this country was distributed among some Indians +whom we met on our return, and who, hearing of our luck, followed our +dog trail to the hunting grounds after our departure. + +Having had enough moose hunting, and anxious to kill caribou, we +concluded to cross Lake Winnipeg, which by this time--early in +December--was frozen hard with nearly six feet of ice, the cracking of +which, especially at night, produces a very curious and +never-to-be-forgotten sound, which can be heard for miles. We soon +reached the lake, but were detained a day or two waiting for a favorable +day to cross--that is to say, one when the wind did not blow, as when it +does the exposure in crossing on the ice is terrific. After finally +venturing upon the ice, we made some forty or fifty miles the first day, +and reached the edge of an island, in the middle of which there were a +few houses occupied principally by Icelandic immigrants. These earn a +precarious livelihood by fishing for whitefish and jackfish principally +in the summer. They keep up this fishing all through the winter, +however, to supply their own needs, by setting their nets underneath +the ice, employing a very simple method, which, if De Long and his party +had known and provided for, they would never have perished so miserably +in the Lena delta. Here we were witnesses to the fact which entitles us +to claim that the common domestic cow is not, strictly speaking, +properly to be classed among the _herbivora_. We distinctly saw a very +ordinary looking cow devour with evident relish, while she was being +milked, a large jackfish, which had been taken from a frozen pile +stacked up outside of the house and thawed for her evening meal. + +These Icelanders live as a rule in a primitive but very comfortable way. +They are much more neat and cleanly than many of the immigrants who come +to the United States, and it is a pity that we do not have them in this +country, for they seem to be very industrious and would make good +citizens. However, it is probable that they were in search of cold +weather, and would not be happy unless they had it. If this is the case, +they most certainly have chosen the best spot on this continent which is +at all accessible; for the region around Lake Winnipeg is, I am told, +one of the coldest places where any reliable record of the temperature +is kept. During our trip, and especially while we were on the east side +of the lake, the temperatures recorded were very low, often 45 degrees +below zero. In fact, during our absence there was a record of 50 degrees +below zero at Selkirk and Winnipeg; and, as we were over a hundred miles +to the north, it is not unreasonable to suppose that the temperature was +quite as low, if not lower, with us. It must not be forgotten, however, +that, except for the cracking of the frozen trees, it is deathly still +and quiet in these regions when the temperature drops to 10 degrees +below zero. Indeed, when the temperature is below that point, it is +usually much more comfortable for one who is out in such weather than a +temperature of zero, or even 20 degrees above, with a heavy wind. Under +these conditions, however, an ordinary man when out hunting cannot +occasionally sit down on a log and smoke his pipe, for any length of +time, with a great amount of pleasure. Like the persecuted boy in the +play, although there are no policemen about, he is compelled, and indeed +is usually perfectly willing, to keep "movin' on." + +After leaving Big Island, as I remember the name, we made our way +across to the mouth of the Bad Throat River, where there was an old +lumber camp, which a great many years ago was the scene of an important +conflict between the Hudson Bay Company's men and the men of the +Northwest Fur Company, in which quite a number were killed. Here we got +another team of dogs, and picked up another member for our party in the +person of an Englishman, who by choice had drifted into this country and +lived there, marrying an Indian squaw shortly after our return. +Unfortunately, the good old-fashioned plan of performing the marriage +ceremony by running together under a blanket had been abolished, so he +had to wait until the yearly visit of the priest. This marrying of +squaws is of course common among the white men of this region. + +As we had only a few things to get before starting out for the famous +caribou country between the head waters of the Hole, the Askandoga and +the Blood Vein rivers, we were not delayed long at this place. The snow +was now quite heavy, at least enough so for comfortable snowshoe +traveling, and we made rapid time after leaving the Bad Throat River. In +this connection it is to be remarked that comparatively little snow +falls in this region. This seems singular, and I do not know the +meteorological explanation of the fact. There is certainly very much +less, for instance, than in Minnesota, hundreds of miles to the south. +The snow, however, is usually a dry powder all through winter, and very +rarely becomes crusted. + +In traveling over broken timbered country with dog-sleds, very much the +same routes are followed that one takes with a canoe in summer--that is +to say, you avoid the rough country by traveling on the rivers, which +are usually covered with thick ice, or over the same portages that are +used in summer. It was necessary for either Penrose, Keller or myself to +lead the way with our snowshoes, while the others took care of the +dog-sleds behind. The dogs followed accurately in the trail beaten out +by our snowshoes for them. + +The country on this side of the lake, unlike that of the west, is very +rough, rocky and rugged, and especially so near the lake shore. It is +quite thickly timbered. As one advances into the interior, however, this +aspect changes, so that the country near the height of land is more +open, and there are long stretches of nearly level country traversed by +rocky, moss-covered and roughly parallel ridges. There is more or less +timber on these ridges, and in the so-called muskegs between them. This +is the country which the caribou seem to prefer. + +After about two weeks' hard traveling, we reached the country which had +been recommended to us and came upon great abundance of caribou sign. In +fact, there were millions of tracks, but, curiously enough, no caribou +were to be seen. We afterward found that they had been driven out by a +lot of wolves, which probably had followed them down from the north. +While this explanation was interesting, it was not productive of any +great amount of satisfaction to the party, for we had been counting +definitely upon fresh meat, and so had our dogs. At least, after doing +the terrific work necessary to make this journey, it is fair to presume +that they had counted upon being fed, and not being left to starve +miserably while tied to a tree. + +To add to our hardships, our Indian tepee, made of canvas, began to +smoke so excessively as to cause us the greatest discomfort, and we all +thought we had pneumonia; but afterward concluded it was nothing but +irritation of the lungs, due to breathing pine smoke a good many hours +each day. In fact, it was almost unbearable. An Indian tepee of this +kind, properly made by a squaw, is beyond doubt the most comfortable of +all hunting tents in any respectable climate; but in a climate of 40 +degrees below zero it is an abomination. We used frequently to crawl +into our sheep-skin sleeping bags, wrap several blankets around the bags +and put the fire out, merely to get relief from the annoyance of the +smoke. In the morning the steam which arose from our bodies, and from +the meal which we might be cooking, got mixed up with the smoke, so that +it was impossible to distinguish each other when four feet apart. In +fact, we were sometimes inclined to think that the dogs on the outside +were better off than ourselves, though the appearance they presented in +the morning was not such as to cause us to wish to change places with +them. They were each tied by a short chain to the pine trees about the +camp, and after a night of low temperature there were to be seen in the +morning only twelve white mounds of snow; not that any snow had fallen +during the night, or that the dogs had crawled underneath that already +on the ground. Their white appearance was simply due to the dense +coating of frost which had been produced from the condensation caused by +the heat of their bodies. It must not be forgotten, however, that they +are as hardy and as well able to withstand this rigorous climate as the +wolves, from which many of them are directly descended. All of the +so-called "huskies" are of this type. + +Altogether things were not very pleasant about this time. Our Christmas +Day rations consisted of one small roll each with a little coffee for +breakfast, and in the evening each man was given a small piece of +rabbit. + +The rabbits in this country were unfortunately not as abundant as they +were on the opposite side of the lake, where the Indian boy one day went +out with one of our rifles to visit his rabbit snares and to shoot +rabbits for the dogs. Before long we heard him shoot four times. He came +back to camp with eight rabbits, which had certainly been killed with +the rifle, none of them having been snared. + +Those of us who were able to hunt at all hunted with the greatest +perseverance, but with little success, until finally some one brought in +the report that caribou had been seen, and in a very few days the +country again contained numbers of them. + +One morning, shortly after the first caribou had been seen, Keller, who +had been quite sick, was unable longer to tolerate the smoke of the +tepee, and took a little walk with his rifle close around our camp. He +soon came upon the fresh trail of a bunch of caribou. He had followed it +only a few hundred yards when he saw one of the caribou lying down. He +is a dead shot, the best I have ever known in my life. He carefully +steadied himself, raised his .45-90 Winchester, aimed at the caribou +lying down and fired. When he went up to look at it, to his amazement, +he came across another dead caribou, between the spot where he had fired +and the one at which he had aimed. It had been shot straight through the +temples. On going further, he found the other caribou shot exactly where +he had aimed at it, some twenty yards distant from the first one. The +only possible way in which he could explain this remarkable occurrence +is that the caribou which had been shot through the head, and which he +had not seen, had risen out of its bed just as he was in the act of +firing and interposed his head directly in the line of fire. The fact +of having fresh meat in camp, of course, brought great joy to us all, +and especially to the semi-starved dogs. As in the case of killing the +first moose, it seemed to have the effect of changing our luck, for we +afterward killed a number of caribou, although we were not successful in +getting good heads. + +These caribou are totally different from the moose in the kind of food +they live upon and in their general habits. They prefer a different sort +of a country, the two rarely being found together. They spend much of +their time in the muskegs, which seem to be characteristic of all of +that region of the country; but these muskegs are not open, like those +on the west side of the lake, being more or less covered with a growth +of stubby jack pine, from which usually hangs an abundance of long gray +moss. The caribou feed upon this moss, while the moose, on the other +hand, are fond of the tender sprouts of the red and gray willow. The +caribou, however, are often found on the rocky ridges, where they find +good feed on the moss growing upon the rocks. Indeed, they seem to have +no settled place of abode, like moose, being probably one of the most +restless animals on the face of the earth. They seem to be always on +the move. Unlike the moose, they are very inquisitive, in this respect +being more like the antelope than any other animal. They are found +singly, or in twos or threes, or in small bunches of ten to twenty, but +often in great herds of a hundred or perhaps a thousand. They spend a +great deal of their time on the lakes in the winter, where they play +with each other like kittens. They are wonderfully quick in their +actions. They are also very sure of their footing, and we saw a number +of places in the snow where they had slid down quite steep rocks for +some distance, probably by putting their four feet close together. Great +herds often come down from the region on the western shore of Hudson Bay +and return the following summer. + +Very few people have any idea of the immense numbers of caribou which +are found in the great tract of country to the west of Hudson Bay. By +many who are familiar with this country they are believed to be as +numerous as the buffaloes ever were in the early days. When more or less +scarce, as they were during the greater portion of our hunt, they afford +excellent hunting; but I should imagine that when they are very +numerous there would be little sport in killing them, for as a rule they +are not at all shy or difficult to approach. In general it may be said +that the caribou of this region, known as the woodland caribou, live in +the wooded districts during the summer and autumn, but in the winter +time go to the higher land. Wind and cold seem to have no terror for +them, and I doubt very much whether there is an animal in the world, +with the exception perhaps of the musk-ox or the polar bear, that is so +well fitted by nature to withstand the intense cold of the region in +which they live. When one sees a caribou's track for the first time, he +is amazed at its size, and its difference from the long, narrow, +sharp-toed track of the moose, and naturally comes to the conclusion +that the animal must be much larger than it really is. As a matter of +fact, they are not much larger than the black-tailed deer, and +considerably smaller than the elk of the Rocky Mountains. Until he has +seen them, one is likely to imagine that the caribou is an ungainly, +misshapen animal. This is a great mistake. Not only are they as a rule +well proportioned, but they are extremely graceful. Their curious horns +give them, of course, rather an odd appearance. The meat we found to be +delicious, and rather better than moose meat. + +After having remained as long as we desired in this country, and as long +as we could stand the infernal smoke of the tepee, and after having +secured a good supply of meat for our return journey, we loaded our +toboggans and retraced our steps without especial incident to the mouth +of the Bad Throat River. From there we took a sleigh to Selkirk, driving +over the lake on the ice, and arriving at Selkirk the latter part of +January or the 1st of February. + +To those who may contemplate taking a similar trip to the Canadian woods +in winter, I would say that it will prove a very interesting and +never-to-be-forgotten experience, and that the hardships of such a trip +are not necessarily severe if one will be guided entirely by the advice +of the inhabitants of the region, especially as to his clothing and +general outfit. I feel certain that, if one goes to the right locality, +not only will he get good sport, but he will get it under very pleasant +and novel conditions, and return home more benefited in every way than +if he had taken a trip of the same duration to some warm climate. Under +no circumstances, however, let him imagine that he knows more than the +people of the country as to what he should do and wear. + +_D. M. Barringer._ + + + + +[Illustration: OUTESHAI, RUSSIAN BARZOI.] + +Wolf-Hunting in Russia + + +The enormous extent and diversified conditions of the various localities +of this empire would naturally suggest a variety of sport in hunting and +shooting, including perhaps something characteristic. In the use of dogs +of the chase especially is this suggestion borne out by the facts, and +it has been said that in no other country has the systematic working +together of fox-hounds and greyhounds been successfully carried out. + +Unfortunately, this sort of hunting is not now so general as prior to +the emancipation of the serfs in 1861. A modest kennel for such sport +consists of six to ten fox-hounds and four to six pairs of barzois,[1] +and naturally demands considerable attention. Moreover, to use it +requires the presence of at least one man with the fox-hounds and one +man for each pair or each three greyhounds. To have a sufficient number +of good huntsmen at his service was formerly a much less expensive +luxury to a proprietor than now, and to this fact is due the decline of +the combined kennel in Russia. + + [1] Barzoi--long-haired greyhound, wolf-hound, Russian greyhound. + +This hunt is more or less practised throughout the entire extent of the +Russian Empire. In the south, where the soil is not boggy, it is far +better sport than in Northern Russia, where there are such enormous +stretches of marshy woods and tundra. Curiously enough, nearly all the +game of these northern latitudes, including moose, wolves, hares, and +nearly all kinds of grouse and other birds, seem to be found in the +marshiest places--those almost impracticable to mounted hunters. + +Though the distances covered in hunting, and also in making neighborly +visits in Russia, are vast, often recalling our own broad Western life, +yet in few other respects are any similarities to be traced. This is +especially true of Russia north of the Moscow parallel; for in the south +the steppes have much in common with the prairies, though more +extensive, and the semi-nomadic Cossacks, in their mounted +peregrinations and in their pastoral life, have many traits in common +with real Americans. Nor is it true of the Caucasus, where it would seem +that the Creator, dissatisfied with the excess of the great plain,[2] +extending from the Finnish Gulf to the Black Sea, resolved to establish +a counterpoise, and so heaved up the gigantic Caucasus. There too are to +be found fine hunting and shooting, which merit description and which +offer good sport to mountain amateurs. + + [2] The Waldeir hills, extending east and west half-way between St. + Petersburg and Moscow, are the only exception. + +The annual hunt in the fall of 1893 in the governments of Tver and +Yaroslav, with the Gatchino kennels, will give a good idea of the +special sport of which I have spoken. It is imperative that these hounds +go to the hunt once a year for about a month, although for the most part +without their owner. The master of the hunt and his assistant, with +three or four guests, and oftentimes the proprietors of the lands where +the hounds happen to hunt, usually constitute the party. The hunt +changes locality nearly every year, but rarely does it go further from +home than on this occasion, about 450 versts from Gatchino. As a rule it +is not difficult to obtain from proprietors permission to hunt upon +their estates, and this is somewhat surprising to one who has seen the +freedom with which the fences are torn down and left unrepaired. It is +true that they are not of the strongest and best type, and that peasant +labor is still very cheap; yet such concessions to sport would rarely be +made in America. + +It was at Gatchino, on the 10th day of September, that the hunting train +was loaded with men, horses, dogs, provisions and wagons. The hunt +called for twenty-two cars in all, including one second-class passenger +car, in one end of which four of us made ourselves comfortable, while in +the other end servants found places. The weather was cold and rainy, +and, as our train traveled as a freight, we had two nights before us. It +was truly a picturesque and rare sight to see a train of twenty-two cars +loaded with the _personnel_, material and live stock of a huge kennel. +The fox-hounds, seventy in number, were driven down in perfect, close +order by the beaters to the cracks of the Russian hunting whip and +installed in their car, which barely offered them sufficient +accommodation. The greyhounds, three sorts, sixty-seven in number, were +brought down on leashes by threes, fours or fives, and loaded in two +cars. Sixty saddle and draft horses, with saddles, wagons and hunting +paraphernalia, were also loaded. Finally the forty-four gray and green +uniformed huntsmen, beaters, drivers and ourselves were ready, and the +motley train moved away amid the uttered and unuttered benedictions of +the families and relatives of the parting hunt. + +Our first destination was Peschalkino, in the government of Tver, near +the River Leet, a tributary of the Volga, not far from the site of the +first considerable check of the Mongolian advance about 1230. I mention +this fact in passing to give some idea of the _terrain_, because I think +that it is evident to anyone who has visited this region that the +difficulty of provisioning and of transportation in these marshes must +have offered a greater obstacle to an invading army than did the then +defenders of their country. + +We passed our time most agreeably in playing vint[3] and talking of +hunting incidents along the route. Many interesting things were told +about the habits of wolves and other game, and, as they were vouched for +by two thorough gentlemen and superb sportsmen, and were verified as far +as a month's experience in the field would permit, I feel authorized to +cite them as facts. + + [3] Vint--game of cards resembling whist, boaston and _preference_. + +The bear has been called in folk-lore the moujik's brother, and it must +be conceded that there are outward points of resemblance, especially +when each is clad in winter attire; moreover the moujik, when all is +snow and ice, fast approximates the hibernating qualities of the bear. +One strong point of difference is the accentuated segregative character +of the former, who always live in long cabin villages.[4] + + [4] The bear is caricatured in Russian publications as a humorous, + light-hearted, joking creature, conversing and making common sport + with the golden-hearted moujik, his so-called brother. + +But it is rather of the wolf's habits and domestic economy that I wish +to speak--of him who has always been the dreaded and accursed enemy of +the Russian peasant. In the question of government the wolf follows very +closely the system of the country, which is pre-eminently +patriarchal--the fundamental principle of the _mir_. A family of wolves +may vary in number from six to twenty, and contain two to four +generations, usually two or three, yet there is always one chief and one +wife--in other words, never more than one female with young ones. When +larger packs have been seen together it was probably the temporary +marshaling of their forces for some desperate raid or the preliminaries +of an anarchistic strike. The choruses of wolves and the special +training of the young for them are interesting characteristics. Upon +these choruses depends the decision of the hunter whether or not to make +his final attack upon the stronghold of the wolves; by them he can tell +with great precision the number in the family and the ages of the +different members. They are to wolf-hunters what tracks are to moose- and +bear-hunters--they serve to locate the game. When the family is at home +they occur with great regularity at twilight, midnight and dawn. + +In camp near Billings, Montana, in the fall of 1882, we heard nightly +about 12 o'clock the howling of a small pack of coyotes; but we supposed +that it was simply a "howling protest" against the railway train, +passing our camp at midnight, that had just reached that part of the +world. Possibly our coyotes have also howling choruses at regular +intervals, like the Russian wolves. + +There was such a fascination in listening to the wolves that we went out +several times solely for that purpose. The weirdness of the sound and +the desolateness of the surroundings produced peculiar sensations upon +the listener. To an enthusiastic lover of sport and nature these +pleasurable sensations might be well compared with the effect of the +Niebelungen songs upon an ardent Wagnerite. The old professional +huntsmen could tell just what members of the family and how many were +howling; they scarcely disagreed upon these points. + +These old hunters pretended to interpret the noisy assemblies of the +wolves as regards content or discontent, satisfaction or +dissatisfaction. + +Owing to the difficulty of securing wolves under most favorable +circumstances, especially old ones, it would be considered folly to make +a drive if the matinal howl had not been heard. But to make a successful +drive in a large marshy forest many beaters must be employed, and, as +they are gathered from far and near, considerable time is necessary to +collect them; therefore it is almost essential to know that the wolves +were "at home" at midnight as well as dawn. + +While in the vicinity of a certain wolf family whose habitat was an +enormous marshy wood, entirely impossible to mounted men, we were +compelled to await for forty-eight hours the return of the old ones, +father and mother. At times during this wait only the young ones, at +other times the young and the intermediate ones, would sing. Not hearing +the old ones, we inferred they were absent, and so they were--off on a +raid, during which they killed two peasant horses ten miles from their +stronghold. It was supposed that the wolves of intermediate age also +made excursions during this time, as indicated by the howlings, but not +to such great distances as the old ones. It was perfectly apparent, as +we listened one evening, that the old ones had placed the young ones +about a verst away and were making them answer independently. This +seemed too human for wolves. + +After one day and two nights of travel we arrived at the little station +of Peschalkino, on the Bologoe-Rybinsk Railway, not far from the +frontier between the two governments, Tver and Yaroslav, where we were +met by two officers of the guard, a Yellow Cuirassier and a +Preobiajensky, on leave of absence on their estates (Koy), sixteen +versts from the rail. They were brothers-in-law and keen sportsmen, who +became members of our party and who indicated the best localities for +game on their property, as well as on the adjoining estates. + +Peschalkino boasts a painted country tavern of two stories, the upper of +which, with side entrance, we occupied, using our own beds and bed +linen, table and table linen, cooking and kitchen utensils; in fact, it +was a hotel where we engaged the walled-in space and the brick cooking +stove. As to the huntsmen and the dogs, they were quartered in the +adjacent unpainted log-house peasant village--just such villages as are +seen all over Russia, in which a mud road, with plenty of mud, comprises +all there is of streets and avenues. After having arranged our temporary +domicile, and having carefully examined horses and dogs to see how they +had endured the journey, we made ready to accept a dinner invitation at +the country place of our new members. Horses were put to the brake, +called by the Russians _Amerikanka_ (American), and we set out for a +drive of sixteen versts over a mud road to enjoy the well-known Slav +hospitality so deeply engrafted in the Ponamaroff family. + +I said road, but in reality it scarcely merits the name, as it is +neither fenced nor limited in width other than by the sweet will of the +traveler. Special mention is made of this road because its counterparts +exist all over the empire. It is the usual road, and not the exception, +which is worse, as many persons have ample reasons for knowing. This +condition is easily explained by the scarcity of stone, the inherent +disregard of comfort, the poverty of the peasants, the absence of a +yeoman class, and the great expense that would be entailed upon the +landed proprietors, who live at enormous distances from each other. The +country in these and many other governments has been civilized many +generations, but so unfinished and primitive does it all seem that it +recalls many localities of our West, where civilization appeared but +yesterday, and where to-morrow it will be well in advance of these +provinces. The hand-flail, the wooden plow-share, the log cabin with +stable under the same roof, could have been seen here in the twelfth +century as they are at present. Thanks to the Moscow factories, the gala +attire of the peasant of to-day may possibly surpass in brilliancy of +color that of his remote ancestry, which was clad entirely from the home +loom. With the exception of the white brick churches, whose tall green +and white spires in the distance appear at intervals of eight to ten +versts, and of occasional painted window casings, there is nothing to +indicate that the colorings of time and nature are not preferable to +those of art. The predominating features of the landscape are the +windmills and the evenness of the grain-producing country, dotted here +and there by clumps of woods, called islands. The churches, too, are +conspicuous by their number, size, and beauty of architecture; +school-houses, by their absence. Prior to 1861 there must have been a +veritable mania here for church-building. The large and beautiful church +at Koy, as well as two other pretentious brick ones, were constructed on +his estates by the grandfather of our host. + +Arrived at Koy, we found a splendid country place, with brick buildings, +beautiful gardens, several hot-houses and other luxuries, all of which +appeared the more impressive by contrast. The reception and hospitality +accorded us at Koy--where we were highly entertained with singing, +dancing and cards until midnight--was as bounteous as the darkness and +rainfall which awaited us on the sixteen versts' drive over roadless +roads back to our quarter bivouac at Peschalkino. + +The following morning marked the beginning of our hunting. About 10 +o'clock all was in readiness. Every hunter[5] had been provided with a +leash, a knife and a whip; and, naturally, every huntsman with the two +latter. In order to increase the number of posts, some of the huntsmen +were also charged with leashes of greyhounds. I shall in the future use +the word greyhound to describe all the sight hounds, in +contradistinction to fox-hound; it includes barzois (Russian +greyhounds), greyhounds (English) and crosses between the two. The +barzois numbered about 75 per cent. of all the greyhounds, and were for +the most part somewhat less speedy than the real greyhounds, but better +adapted for wolf-hunting. They also have greater skill in taking hold, +and this, even in hare coursing, sometimes gives them advantage over +faster dogs. One of the most interesting features of the coursing was +the matching of Russian and English greyhounds. The leash system used in +the field offers practically the same fairness as is shown by dogs at +regular coursing matches. The leash is a black narrow leather thong +about fifteen feet long, with a loop at one end that passes over the +right shoulder and under the left arm. The long thong with a slit at the +end, forming the hand loop, is, when not in use, folded up like a lariat +or a driving rein, and is stuck under the knife belt. To use it, the end +is put through the loop-ring collars, which the greyhounds continually +wear, and is then held fast in the left hand until ready to slip the +hounds. Where the country is at all brushy, three dogs are the practical +limit of one leash, still for the most part only two are employed. It is +surprising to see how quickly the dogs learn the leash with mounted +huntsmen; two or three days are sufficient to teach them to remain at +the side of the horse and at a safe distance from his feet. Upon seeing +this use of the leash with two dogs each, I was curious to know why it +should be so; why it would not be more exciting to see half a dozen or +more hounds in hot pursuit racing against each other and having a common +goal, just as it is more exciting to see a horse race with a numerous +entry than merely with two competitors. This could have been remedied, +so I thought, by having horsemen go in pairs, or having several dogs +when possible on one leash. Practice showed the wisdom of the methods +actually employed. In the first place, it is fairer for the game; in the +second, it saves the dogs; and finally, it allows a greater territory to +be hunted over with the same number of dogs. + + [5] Hunter-gentleman, huntsman, man of the hunt--conventional terms. + +There are two ways of hunting foxes and hares, and, with certain +variations, wolves also. These are, by beating and driving with +fox-hounds, and by open driving with greyhounds alone. In the first case +a particular wood (island) is selected, and the fox-hounds with their +mounted huntsmen are sent to drive it in a certain direction. The +various leashes of greyhounds (barzois alone if wolves be expected) are +posted on the opposite side, at the edge of the wood or in the field, +and are loosed the second the game has shown its intention of clearing +the open space expressly selected for the leash. The mounted beaters +with the fox-hounds approach the thick woods of evergreens, cottonwood, +birch and undergrowth, and wait on its outskirts until a bugle signal +informs them that all the greyhound posts are ready. The fox-hounds +recognize the signal, and would start immediately were they not +terrorized by the black _nagaika_--a product of a country that has from +remotest times preferred the knout[6] to the gallows, and so is skilled +in its manufacture and use. At the word _go_ from the chief beater the +seventy fox-hounds, which have been huddled up as closely as the +encircling beaters could make them, rush into the woods. In a few +minutes, sometimes seconds, the music begins--and what music! I really +think there are too many musicians, for the voices not being classified, +there is no individuality, but simply a prolonged howl. For my part, I +prefer fewer hounds, where the individual voices may be distinguished. +It seemed to be a needless use of so many good dogs, for half the number +would drive as well; but they were out for exercise and training, and +they must have it. Subsequently the pack was divided into two, but this +was not necessitated by fatigue of the hounds, for we hunted on +alternate days with greyhounds alone. + + [6] Though not pertinent to the subject, I cannot refrain from + relating a curious comparison made to me by a very intelligent + Russian, aide-de-camp general of the late Emperor: "Just as the + scarcity of women in early American times caused them to be highly + appreciated and tenderly cared for, so the relative scarcity of men in + early Russia caused the Government to appreciate them and to preserve + them at all hazards. Logically follows the exalted position of woman + to-day in the United States and the absence of capital punishment in + Russia." + +One could well believe that foxes might remain a long time in the woods, +even when pursued by such noise; but it seemed to me that the hares[7] +would have passed the line of posts more quickly than they did. At the +suitable moment, when the game was seen, the nearest leash was slipped, +and when they seemed to be on the point of losing another and sometimes +a third was slipped. The poor fox-hounds were not allowed to leave the +woods; the moment the game appeared in the open space they were driven +back by the stiff riders with their cruel whips. The true fox-hound +blood showed itself, and to succeed in beating some of them off the +trail, especially the young ones, required most rigorous action on the +part of all. This seemed to me a prostitution of the good qualities of a +race carefully bred for centuries, and, while realizing the necessity of +the practice for that variety of hunt, I could never look upon it with +complaisance. + + [7] There are two varieties: the so-called white hare and the + so-called red hare. The former becomes white in winter, and weighs, + when full grown, ten pounds; the latter has a reddish gray coat which + does not change, and weighs about one and a half pounds less than the + other variety. The red hare frequents the fields less than does the + white. The foxes are the ordinary red ones. + +It is just this sort of hunt[8] for which the barzoi has been specially +bred, and which has developed in him a tremendous spring; at the same +time it has given him less endurance than the English greyhound. It was +highly interesting to follow the hounds with the beaters; but, owing to +the thickness of the woods and the absence of trails, it was far from +being an easy task either for horse or rider. To remain at a post with a +leash of hounds was hardly active or exciting enough for me--except when +driving wolves--especially when the hounds could be followed, or when +the open hunt could be enjoyed. In the second case the hunters and +huntsmen with leashes form a line with intervals of 100 to 150 yards and +march for versts straight across the country, cracking the terrible +_nagaika_ and uttering peculiar exciting yells that would start game on +a parade ground. After a few days I flattered myself that I could +manage my leash fairly and slip them passably well. To two or three of +the party leashes were not intrusted, either because they did not desire +them or for their want of experience in general with dogs and horses. To +handle a leash well requires experience and considerable care. To +prevent tangling in the horse's legs, especially at the moment the game +is sighted, requires that the hounds be held well in hand, and that they +be not slipped until both have sighted the game. I much prefer the open +hunt to the post system. There is more action, and in fact more sport, +whether it happens that one or several leashes be slipped for the same +animal. When it is not possible to know whose dogs have taken the game, +it belongs to him who arrived first, providing that he has slipped his +leash. + + [8] In Northern Russia, owing to the extensive forest, brush and marsh + lands, every effort was made to utilize the small open spaces or + clearings for the greyhounds, and this was the usual way of hunting; + while in Southern Russia, where steppes predominate, the open + hunt--_chasse a courre_--prevailed. This explains why the Crimean + barzoi also has more endurance than the now recognized type from the + north. + +So much for the foxes and hares, but the more interesting hunting of +wolves remains. Few people except wolf-hunters--and they are reluctant +to admit it--know how rarely old wolves are caught with hounds. All +admit the danger of taking an old one either by a dagger thrust or alive +from under[9] barzois, however good they be. There is always a +possibility that the dogs may loosen their hold or be thrown off just at +the critical moment. But the greatest difficulty consists in the +inability of the hounds to hold the wolf even when they have overtaken +him. When it is remembered that a full-grown wolf is nearly twice as +heavy as the average barzoi, and that pound for pound he is stronger, it +is clear that to overtake and hold him requires great speed and grit on +the part of a pair of hounds. + + [9] This is the Russian phrasing, and correctly describes the idea. + +A famous kennel,[10] which two years since caught forty-six wolves by +the combined system of hunting, took in that number but one old +wolf--that is, three years or more old. The same kennel last year caught +twenty-six without having a single old one in the number. We likewise +failed to include in our captures a single old wolf. I mention these +facts to correct the false impression that exists with us concerning the +barzois, as evidenced by the great disappointment when two years since a +pair, in one of the Western States, failed to kill outright a full-grown +timber wolf. At the field trials on wolves, which take place twice a +year at Colomiaghi, near Petersburg, immediately after the regular +field trials on hares, I have seen as many as five leashes slipped +before an old wolf could be taken, and then it was done only with the +greatest difficulty. In fact, as much skill depends upon the _borzatnik_ +(huntsman) as the dogs. Almost the very second the dogs take hold he +simply falls from his horse upon the wolf and endeavors to thrust the +unbreakable handle of his _nagaika_ between the jaws of the animal; he +then wraps the lash around the wolf's nose and head. If the hounds are +able to hold even a few seconds, the skilled _borzatnik_ has had +sufficient time, but there is danger even to the best. I saw an +experienced man get a thumb terribly lacerated while muzzling a wolf, +yet he succeeded, and in an incredibly short time. On another occasion, +even before the brace of hounds had taken firm neck or ear holds, I saw +a bold devil of a huntsman swing from his horse and in a twinkling lie +prone upon an old wolf's head. How this man, whose pluck I shall always +admire, was able to muzzle the brute without injury to himself, and with +inefficient support from his hounds, it is not easy to understand, +though I was within a few yards of the struggle. Such skill comes from +long experience, indifference to pain and, of course, pride in his +profession. + + [10] That of the Grand Duke Nicolas Nicolaievitch. + +Having hunted foxes and hares, and having been shooting as often as the +environs of Peschalkino and our time allowed, we changed our base to a +village twenty-two versts distant over the border in the government of +Yaroslav. It was a village like all others of this grain and flax +district, where the live stock and poultry shared the same roof with +their owners. A family of eleven wolves had been located about three +versts from it by a pair of huntsmen sent some days in advance; this +explained our arrival. In making this change, I do not now recall that +we saw a single house other than those of the peasant villages and the +churches. I fancy that in the course of time these peasants may have +more enlightenment, a greater ownership in the land, and may possibly +form a yeoman class. At the present the change, slow as it is, seems to +point in that direction. With their limited possessions, they are happy +and devoted subjects. The total of the interior decorations of every +house consists of icons, of cheap colored pictures of the imperial +family and of samovars. In our lodgings, the house of the village +_starost_, the three icons consumed a great part of the wall surface, +and were burdened with decorations of various colored papers. No one has +ever touched upon peasant life in Russia without mentioning the enormous +brick stove (_lezanka_[11]); and having on various hunts profited by +them, I mean to say a word in behalf of their advantages. Even as early +as the middle of September the cold continuous rains cause the gentle +warmth of the _lezanka_ to be cordially appreciated. On it and in its +vicinity all temperatures may be found. Its top offers a fine place for +keeping guns, ammunition and various articles free from moisture, and +for drying boots;[12] while the horizontal abutments constitute benches +well adapted to thawing out a chilled marrow, or a sleeping place for +those that like that sort of thing. A generous space is also allowed for +cooking purposes. In point of architecture there is nothing that can be +claimed for it but stability; excepting the interior upper surface of +the oven, there is not a single curve to break its right lines. It +harmonizes with the surroundings, and in a word answers all the +requirements of the owner as well as of the hunter, who always +preserves a warm remembrance of it. + + [11] _Lezanka_ means something used for lying on. + + [12] Hot oats poured into the boots were also used for drying them. + +The wolves were located in a large marshy wood and, from information of +the scouts based on the midnight and dawn choruses, they were reported +"at home." Accordingly we prepared for our visit with the greatest +precautions. When within a verst of the proposed curved line upon which +we were to take our stands with barzois, all dismounted and proceeded +through the marsh on foot, making as little noise as possible. The +silence was occasionally broken by the efforts of the barzois to slip +themselves after a cur belonging to one of the peasant beaters, that +insisted upon seeing the sport at the most aggravating distance for a +sight hound. It was finally decided to slip one good barzoi that, it was +supposed, could send the vexatious animal to another hunting ground; but +the cur, fortunately for himself, suddenly disappeared and did not show +himself again. + +After wading a mile in the marshy bog, we were at the beginning of the +line of combat--if there was to be any. The posts along this line had +been indicated by the chief huntsman by blazing the small pine trees or +by hanging a heap of moss on them. The nine posts were established in +silence along the arc of a circle at distances from each other of about +150 yards. My post was number four from the beginning. In rear of it and +of the adjoining numbers a strong high cord fence was put up, because it +was supposed that near this part of the line the old wolves would pass, +and that the barzois might not be able to stop them. The existence of +such fencing material as part of the outfit of a wolf-hunter is strong +evidence of his estimate of a wolf's strength--it speaks pages. The +fence was concealed as much as possible, so that the wolf with barzois +at his heels might not see it. The huntsmen stationed there to welcome +him on his arrival were provided with fork-ended poles, intended to hold +him by the neck to the ground until he was gagged and muzzled, or until +he had received a fatal dagger thrust. + +While we were forming the ambuscade--defensive line--the regular +beaters, with 200 peasant men and women, and the fox-hounds, were +forming the attack. + +Everything seemed favorable except the incessant cold rain and wind. In +our zeal to guard the usual crossings of the wolves, we ignored the +direction of the wind, which the wolves, however, cleverly profited by. +It could not have been very long after the hounds were let go before +they fell upon the entire family of wolves, which they at once +separated. The shouts and screams of the peasants, mingled with the +noises of the several packs of hounds, held us in excited attention. Now +and then this or that part of the pack would approach the line, and, +returning, pass out of hearing in the extensive woods. The game had +approached within scenting distance, and, in spite of the howling in the +rear, had returned to depart by the right or left flank of the beaters. +As the barking of the hounds came near the line, the holders of the +barzois, momentarily hoping to see a wolf or wolves, waited in almost +breathless expectancy. Each one was prepared with a knife to rush upon +an old wolf to support his pair; but unfortunately only two wolves came +to our line, and they were not two years old. They were taken at the +extreme left flank, so far away that I could not even see the killing. I +was disappointed, and felt that a great mistake had been made in not +paying sufficient attention to the direction of the wind. Where is the +hunter who has not had his full share of disappointments when all +prospects seemed favorable? As often happens, it was the persons +occupying the least favorable places who had bagged the game. They said +that in one case the barzois had held the wolf splendidly until the +fatal thrust; but that in the other case it had been necessary to slip a +second pair before it could be taken. These young wolves were +considerably larger than old coyotes. + +[Illustration: FOXHOUNDS OF THE IMPERIAL KENNELS.] + +So great was the forest hunted that for nearly two hours we had occupied +our posts listening to the spasmodic trailing of the hounds and the +yelling of the peasants. Finally all the beaters and peasants reached +our line, and the drive was over, with only two wolves taken from the +family of eleven. Shivering with cold and thoroughly drenched, we +returned in haste to shelter and dry clothes. + +The following morning we set out on our return to Peschalkino, mounted, +with the barzois, while the fox-hounds were driven along the road. We +marched straight across the country in a very thin skirmish line, +regardless of fences, which were broken down and left to the owners to +be repaired. By the time we had reached our destination, we had enjoyed +some good sport and had taken several hares. The following morning the +master of the imperial hunt, who had been kept at his estates near +Moscow by illness in his family, arrived, fetching with him his horses +and a number of his own hounds. We continued our hunting a number of +days longer in that vicinity, both with and without fox-hounds, with +varying success. Every day or two we also indulged in shooting for +ptarmigan, black cocks, partridges, woodcocks and two kinds of +snipe--all of which prefer the most fatiguing marshes. + +One day our scouts arrived from Philipovo, twenty-six versts off, to +report that another family of wolves, numbering about sixteen, had been +located. The _Amerikanka_ was sent in advance to Orodinatovo, whither we +went by rail at a very early hour. This same rainy and cold autumnal +landscape would be intolerable were it not brightened here and there by +the red shirts and brilliant headkerchiefs of the peasants, the noise of +the flail on the dirt-floor sheds and the ever-alluring attractions of +the hunt. + +During this short railway journey, and on the ride to Philipovo, I could +not restrain certain reflections upon the life of the people and of the +proprietors of this country. It seemed on this morning that three +conditions were necessary to render a permanent habitation here +endurable: neighbors, roads and a change of latitude; of the first two +there are almost none, of latitude there is far too much. To be born in +a country excuses its defects, and that alone is sufficient to account +for the continuance of people under even worse conditions than those of +these governments. It is true that the soil here does not produce fruit +and vegetables like the Crimean coast, and that it does not, like the +black belt, "laugh with a harvest when tickled with a hoe"; yet it +produces, under the present system of cultivation, rye and flax +sufficient to feed, clothe and pay taxes. What more could a peasant +desire? With these provided his happiness is secured; how can he be +called poor? Without questioning this defense, which has been made many +times in his behalf, I would simply say that he is not poor as long as a +famine or plague of some sort does not arrive--and then proceed with our +journey. + +From Orodinatovo to Philipovo is only ten versts, but over roads still +less worthy of the name than the others already traveled. The +_Amerikanka_ was drawn by four horses abreast. The road in places +follows the River Leet, on which Philipovo is situated. We had expected +to proceed immediately to hunt the wolves, and nearly 300 peasant men +and women had been engaged to aid the fox-hounds as beaters. They had +been assembled from far and near, and were congregated in the only +street of Philipovo, in front of our future quarters, to await our +arrival. What a motley assembly, what brilliancy of coloring! All were +armed with sticks, and carried bags or cloths containing their rations +of rye bread swung from the shoulders, or around the neck and over the +back. How many pairs of boots were hung over the shoulders? Was it +really the custom to wear boots on the shoulders? In any case it was _de +rigueur_ that each one show that he or she possessed such a luxury as a +good pair of high top boots; but it was not a luxury to be abused or +recklessly worn out. Their system of foot-gear has its advantages in +that the same pair may be used by several members of a family, male and +female alike. + +It was not a pleasure for us to hear that the wolves had been at home at +twilight and midnight, but were not there at dawn; much less comforting +was this news to those peasants living at great distances who had no +place near to pass the night. The same information was imparted the +following day and the day following, until it began to appear doubtful +whether we could longer delay in order to try for this very migratory +pack. + +Our chances of killing old wolves depended largely upon this drive, for +it was doubtful whether we would make an attack upon the third family, +two days distant from our quarters. Every possible precaution was taken +to make it a success. I was, however, impressed with the fact that the +most experienced members of the hunting party were the least sanguine +about the old wolves. + +Some one remarked that my hunting knife, with a six-inch blade, was +rather short, and asked if I meant to try and take an old wolf. My reply +was in the affirmative, for my intentions at that stage were to try +anything in the form of a wolf. At this moment one of the land +proprietors, who had joined our party, offered to exchange knives with +me, saying that he had not the slightest intention of attacking a wolf +older than two years, and that my knife was sufficient for that. I +accepted his offer. + +At a very early hour on this cold rainy autumnal morning we set out on +our way to the marshy haunts of the game. Our party had just been +reinforced by the arrival of the commander of the Empress's Chevalier +Guard regiment, an ardent sportsman, with his dogs. All the available +fox-hounds, sixty in number, were brought out, and the 300 peasants +counted off. The latter were keen, not only because a certain part of +them had sportsmanlike inclinations, but also because each one received +thirty copecks for participation in the drive. Besides this, they were +interested in the extermination of beasts that were living upon their +live stock. + +The picture at the start was more than worthy of the results of the day, +and it remains fresh in my mind. The greater portion of the peasants +were taken in charge by the chief beater, with the hounds, while the +others followed along with us and the barzois. Silence was enforced upon +all. The line of posts was established as before, except that more care +was exercised. Each principal post, where three barzois were held on +leash, was strengthened by a man with a gun loaded with buckshot. The +latter had instructions not to fire upon a wolf younger than two years, +and not even upon an older one, until it was manifest that the barzois +and their holder were unequal to the task. + +My post was a good one, and my three dogs were apparently keen for +anything. At the slightest noise they were ready to drag me off my feet +through the marsh. Thanks to the _nagaika_, I was able to keep them in +hand. One of the trio was well known for his grit in attacking wolves, +the second was considered fair, while the third, a most promising +two-year-old, was on his first wolf-hunt. Supported by these three dogs, +the long knife of the gentleman looking for young wolves and the yellow +cuirassier officer with his shotgun, I longed for some beast that would +give a struggle. The peasants accompanying us were posted out on each +flank of our line, extending it until the extremities must have been +separated by nearly two miles. + +The signal was given, and hunters, peasants and hounds rushed into the +woods. Almost instantly we heard the screams and yells of the nearest +peasants, and in a short time the faint barking of the fox-hounds. As +the sounds became more audible, it was evident that the hounds had split +into three packs--conclusive that there were at least three wolves. My +chances were improving, and I was arranging my dogs most carefully, that +they might be slipped evenly. My knife, too, was within convenient +grasp, and the fox-hounds were pointing directly to me. Beastly luck! I +saw my neighbor, the hunter of young wolves, slip his barzois, and like +a flash they shot through the small pine trees, splashing as they went. +From my point of view they had fallen upon an animal that strongly +resembled one of themselves. In reality it was a yearling wolf, but he +was making it interesting for the barzois as well as for all who +witnessed the sight. The struggle did not last long, for soon two of the +barzois had fastened their long teeth in him--one at the base of the +ear, the other in the throat. Their holder hastened to the struggle, +about 100 yards from his post, and with my knife gave the wolf the _coup +de grace_. His dogs had first sighted the game, and therefore had the +priority of right to the chase. So long as the game was in no danger of +escaping no neighboring dogs should be slipped. His third barzoi, on +trial for qualifications as a wolf-hound, did not render the least aid. + +Part of the fox-hounds were still running, and there was yet chance that +my excited dogs might have their turn. We waited impatiently until all +sounds had died away and until the beaters had reached our line, when +further indulgence of hope was useless. Besides the above, the +fox-hounds had caught and killed a yearling in the woods; and Colonel +Dietz had taken with his celebrated Malodiets, aided by another dog, a +two-year-old. What had become of the other wolves and where were most of +the hounds? Without waiting to solve these problems, we collected what +we could of our outfit and returned to Philipovo, leaving the task of +finding the dogs to the whippers-in. The whys and wherefores of the hunt +were thoroughly discussed at dinner, and it was agreed that most of the +wolves had passed to the rear between the beaters. It was found out that +the peasants, when a short distance in the woods, had through fear +formed into squads instead of going singly or in pairs. This did not, +however, diminish the disappointment at not taking at least one of the +old ones. + +The result of this drive logically brought up the question of the best +way to drive game. In certain districts of Poland deer are driven from +the line of posts, and the same can be said of successful moose-hunts of +Northern Russia. Perhaps that way may also be better for wolves. + +After careful consideration of the hunting situation, we were unanimous +in preferring hare and fox coursing with both fox-hounds and barzois, or +with the latter alone, at discretion, to the uncertainty of +wolf-hunting; so we decided to change our locality. Accordingly the +following day we proceeded in the _Amerikanka_ to the town of Koy, +twenty-five versts distant. We arrived about noon, and were quartered in +a vacant house in the large yard of Madam Ponamaroff. Our retinue of +huntsmen, dogs, horses, ambulance and wagons arrived an hour later. + +There was no more wolf-hunting. + +_Henry T. Allen._ + + + + +A Bear-Hunt in the Sierras + + +A few years ago, a friend and I were cruising for our amusement in +California, with outfit of our own, consisting of three pack horses, two +saddle animals, tent and camp furnishings. We had started from Los +Angeles; had explored various out-of-the-way passes and valleys in the +San Bernardino and San Rafael Mountains, taking care the while to keep +our camp supplied with game; had killed deer and exceptionally fine +antelope in the hills adjoining the Mojave Desert; had crossed the San +Joaquin Valley and visited the Yosemite, where the good fortune of +finding the Half Dome, with the Anderson rope, carried away by ice, gave +us the opportunity for one delicious climb in replacing it. + +Returning to Fresno, we had sold our ponies and ended our five months' +jaunt. My friend had gone East, and I had accepted the invitation of a +member of the Union Club in San Francisco, to whom I bore a letter of +introduction, to accompany him upon a bear-hunt in the Sierras. He +explained to me that the limited extent of his ranch in the San Joaquin +Valley--a meager and restricted demesne of only 7,000 acres, consisting +of splendid pasturage and arable land--made it necessary for the sheep +to look elsewhere than at home for sustenance during the summer months. + +Many of the great ranches in the valley possessed prescriptive rights to +pasturage over vast tracts in the high Sierras. These, although not +recognized by the law, were at least ignored, and were sanctioned by +custom. The land belonged to nobody--that is, it belonged to Uncle Sam, +which, so far as a Texas or California stockman was concerned, amounted +to exactly the same thing. The owner of such a right to pasturage +zealously maintained his claim; and if, for any reason, he could not use +it himself during a particular season, he formally gave his consent to +some one else to enjoy the privilege in his stead. It was considered a +gross violation of etiquette for a stockman to trespass upon that +portion of the forest habitually used by other sheep. Such intrusions +did occur, particularly upon the part of Mexicans with small +flocks--"tramp sheep" they were called; but when the intruder was shot, +small sympathy accompanied him to the grave, and the deep damnation of +his taking off, in more senses than one, served as a salutary reminder +to other gentlemen with discourteous tendencies to maraud. The +consequence of all this was that a big ranchman spoke of his summer +range with the same sense of proprietorship and security of possession +as of his alfalfa field or pits of ensilage. + +We arrived at my friend's ranch in the evening, and the next morning but +one were in the saddle and on our way--it having been arranged that the +younger brother of my host was to take his place upon the hunt. As we +were to arrive at the sheep-herders' camps on the fourth day from the +ranch, no elaborate preparations were necessary; we took but a single +animal for the pack, besides the horses we rode. A Mexican herder, +Leonard, was the third member of the party--cook, packer, guide, general +storehouse of information and jest. The first night we camped in the +foot hills, in a grove of big-cone pines, curiously enough in the exact +place where, a fortnight before, my friend Proctor and I had pitched our +tent on the way from the Yosemite to Fresno, and which we had left +without the slightest expectation, on the part of either, of ever seeing +again. + +Little of the journey to the mountains remains in my memory. We passed a +great timber chute of astonishing length--twenty or forty miles, or +something of the sort--down which timber is floated from the great pine +and spruce forests to the railroad, with little trouble and at slight +expense; the water being of commercial value for purposes of irrigation +during the summer, and bringing a good price after it has fulfilled its +special function as carrier. The drinking water for my friend's ranch +was taken from this, a supply being drawn in the cool of the morning +sufficient to last throughout the day, and most grateful we found it +during sultry August days in a part of the country where ice is not to +be procured. + +Each of the four days of our journey we were climbing higher among the +mountains, into a thinner and more invigorating atmosphere. The days +were hot so long as one remained exposed to the sun, but the shadows +were cool and the nights most refreshing. Upon the last morning of our +journey, crossing a mountain creek, my attention was called to a rude +bridge, where had occurred a battle of the ranchmen upon the occasion of +an attempted entry by a "tramp" owner with his flock into somebody's +"summer range." The intruder was killed, and I believe in this +particular instance the possessor of the unwritten right of exclusive +pasturage upon Government land found the laws of California awkward to +deal with; not so deadly, it may be, as a six-shooter, but expensive and +discouraging to quiet pastoral methods. + +Another point of interest was Rattlesnake Rock, which we rounded upon +the trail. This was a spot peculiarly sheltered and favored by the +winds, the warmest corner that snakes wot of, and here they assemble for +their winter's sleep. In the mild days of early spring, when the rest of +the world is still frozen and forbidden, this one little nook, catching +all the sun, is thawed and genial. From beneath the ledge crawl forth +into the warmth great store of rattlers, big and little. Coming out from +the Yosemite Valley, I had killed one quite four feet in length and of +exactly the same girth as my wrist, which I was assured was not at all +an extraordinary size for them "in these parts." Near this rock, in an +unfeeling manner, I shot the head off another big one, and he will no +longer attend the yearly meeting of his kind at Rattlesnake Rock. + +Upon this stage of our journey we met no one, yet the noble forest of +spruce through which we were traveling bore only too plainly the signs +of man's presence in the past, and of his injurious disregard of the +future. Everywhere were the traces of fire. The trees of the Sierras, at +the elevation at which we were, an altitude of 8,000 or 10,000 feet, +grow more sparsely than in any forest to which we are accustomed in the +East. Their dry and unimpeded spaces seem like heaven to the hunter +familiar only with the tangled and perplexing undergrowth of the "North +Woods," where the midday shadow, the thick underbrush, the uneven and +wet, mossy surface, except upon some remote hardwood ridge, are the +unvarying characteristics. In the Rocky Mountains, and that part of the +Sierras with which I am familiar, it is quite different. In California +the trees do not crowd and jostle one another, but have regard for the +sacredness of the person so far as the mutual relation of one and all +are concerned. Broad patches of sunshine beneath the trees encourage the +growth of rich grasses, none so sweet as those which are found at a +great altitude; and, although the prevailing tint under foot is that of +the reddish earth, tufts of succulent feed abound sufficient to repay +the sheep for cruising everywhere, while occasional glades furnish the +most delicious and abundant pasturage. As in every forest, the processes +of nature are slow--it takes a long time for the dead past to bury its +dead. On every side lie fallen trees; and a generation of rain and snow, +sunshine and wind and tempest, must elapse before these are rotted away, +and by the enrichment of the soil can furnish nourishment and life to +their progeny and successors. Naturally these trees are a hindrance and +annoyance to the sheep herder; they separate his flock and greatly +increase his labors. The land is not even his master's, whose one idea +is temporary gain, hence there is no restraining influence whatever for +their preservation. "So long as it lasts my lifetime, what matter?" is +the prevailing sentiment. + +As there is no rain during the summer months, the fallen trees become +perfectly dry; a handful of lighted twigs is all that is required to set +fire to them, when they blaze or smoulder until consumed. Owing to the +absence of underbrush, forest fires are far less common than would be +expected; but, of course, the soil is impoverished by the deprivation of +its natural enrichment, the decaying wood, and the centuries to come +will there, as well nigh everywhere in our country, point the finger of +scorn at our spendthrift forestry. + +Although this is the chief economic injury, the beauty of the woods is +sadly marred; all large game is frightened away, except the bear, which +is half human and half hog in his methods, and minds it not at all--in +fact, finds the presence of man perfectly intelligible, and his fat +flocks a substantial addition to his own bill of fare. Leonard pointed +out to us a certain mountain shrub, a rank poison to sheep. Every +cluster of it in his range is known to the herder, who keeps the sheep +in his charge at a safe distance. This is one of his important duties; +for, if a sheep eats of this plant, he is a "goner." + +In one particular the pasturage of the high Sierras has greatly +suffered. The ranchmen naturally wish to get their sheep off the home +range as early in the spring as possible--in fact, the last month there +is one of starvation. The new crops have not yet grown, nothing remains +standing of the old but a few dead stalks of weeds, the supply of +alfalfa cut the year before has long since been exhausted, and, +metaphorically speaking, the sheep and cattle have to dine, as the +hungry Indian is said to do, by tightening his belt half a dozen holes +and thinking of what he had to eat week before last. Only the weaklings +die, however; the others become lean and restless, and as eager as their +masters to start for the mountains. The journey supplies them with scant +pickings, just enough to keep body and soul together, but morally it is +a relief from the monotony of starvation at home, and they work their +way stubbornly and expectantly up the mountains and into the forest as +soon as the sun permits and anything has grown for them to eat. The +consequence of this close grazing is that certain species of the grasses +upon which they feed are never allowed to come to flower and mature +their seed; hence those with a delicate root, the more strictly annual +varieties, which rely upon seed for perpetuation of the plant, have a +hard time of it. Where the sheep range, the wild timothy, for example--a +dwarf variety and an excellent, sweet grass--has almost disappeared, +although formerly it grew in abundance. + +The forest glades through which we passed had the appearance of a +closely-cropped pasture, as different as possible from the profusion of +tall grasses and beautiful flowering plants which grow in similar +openings untroubled by sheep. So far as the grasses are concerned--or +"grass," by which, I take it, is ordinarily designated the foliage of +the plant--I doubt if it is molested to any great extent by deer. Their +diet is mainly the tender leaves of plants--"weeds" to the unscientific +person. The heads of wild oats and of a few of the grasses might prove +sufficiently sweet and tempting to arrest their fancy; but as for +grazing, as sheep or cattle do, it is not their habit. When deer shall +have come to trudge up hill in the plodding gait of the domestic beasts, +and shall have abandoned their present method of ascending by a series +of splendid springing leaps and bounds, the very embodiment of vigor and +of wild activity, time enough then for them to take to munching grass, +the sustenance of the harmless, necessary cow. At present they are most +fastidious in their food, and select only the choicest, tenderest tips +and sweetest tufts of herbage, picking them here and there, wandering +and meditating as they eat. I will not say that they never touch grass, +for I have seen deer feeding among cattle in the open, but it is not by +any means the chief article of their diet, and when they partake of it +under such circumstances, it is more as a gratification of their social +instincts, I think, than from any particular love of the food itself. + +A little before noon upon the fourth day, we arrived at one of the sheep +camps, to which we had been directed by a stray herd, and where we were +to find the foreman of the sheep gang. At that hour of the day there +were naturally in camp but a few men. The cook was there, of course. His +functions were simple enough--to make bread, tea, and boil mutton, or +bake it in a Mexican oven beneath the coals. With him was the chief +herder and a half-witted Portuguese, who, upon the day following, in the +plenitude of his zeal and mental deficiency, insisted upon offering +himself as live bait for a grizzly, as will be narrated. + +During the afternoon I strolled further up the mountain with my rifle, +in the hope of a shot at a stray deer, and to have a look at the lay of +the land. Bear tracks I saw and a little deer sign also, but it was too +early in the day regularly to hunt. All nature nodded in the dozy glare +of the August afternoon, and after the hot journey in the saddle I found +a siesta under the clean spruce trees refreshing. Toward sunset I awoke +to find a pine martin in a tree across the gulch reconnoitering, and +evidently turning over in his mind the probabilities whether the big +creature curled up on the hillside "forninst" him were of the cast of +hunter or hunted. I soon brought him out of that, and upon my return to +camp the hide was graciously accepted by the chief herder, who converted +the head of it into a tobacco pouch with neatness and dispatch. At the +evening meal there were good-natured references to _chile con +oso_--bear's meat cooked with red peppers--regret expressed that the +camp's larder could at present afford none, and expressions of +confidence that this delicacy would soon be set before us--all most +politely and comfortably insinuated. They had the gratification of their +desire; it was on the next day but one. + +That night there was a great jabbering of bad Spanish around the +camp-fire. Had this been the rendezvous of Sicilian brigands, it +doubtless would have had a slightly more picturesque appearance, but the +difference would have been only of degree, not at all of kind. The +absence of rain made tents unnecessary. Piles of bedding, of cooking and +riding equipment, defined the encampment. Around the fire a dozen +Mexicans clustered, of whom, except the chief herder and Leonard, not +one spoke English. They wore the broad hats of their race, and were +arrayed for protection against the cool night winds of the Sierras in +old and shabby cloaks, some of which had been originally bright in +color, but now were subdued by age and dirt into comfortable harmony +with the quiet tones of the mountain and the forest. Old quilts and +sheepskins carpeted a small space where we had been invited to seat +ourselves upon our arrival. Then, as throughout our stay, every possible +mark of hospitality was shown us--a delicious, faint survival of +Castilian courtesy. + +Long after I had turned in, somewhere in the dead vast and middle of the +night, I was aroused by the sound of scurry and scampering among the +bunch of sheep which was rounded up near the camp. Experience has +taught these creatures to efface themselves at night, and they are only +too glad to sleep quietly, as near as possible to humans, with no +disposition to wander after dark. They realize their danger from bears, +yet the protection which a Mexican affords is a purely imaginary thing, +as unsubstantial as the baseless fabric of a vision, of as little real +substance for the protection of the flock as the dream of mutton stew +and fat bear, by no means a baseless fabric, which engrosses the +sleeping shepherd, body and mind. The disturbance upon this occasion +soon subsided. One and another of the shepherds sleepily moved in his +blankets--perhaps swore to himself a hurried prayer or two--but not one +of them spoke aloud or indicated the slightest intention of +investigating the cause of the commotion. Only too well they and the +sheep knew what it signified. Quiet reigned again, and, attaching no +importance to the incident, I was promptly asleep. + +In the morning I learned that the disturbing cause had been the charge +of a grizzly into the flock within a stone's throw of us, a sound too +familiar to occasion comment at the time. There were the tracks, to +leeward of the sheep, of a she grizzly and two cubs. Their approach had +been without a sound; not the snap of a twig, or the faintest footfall, +had given any signal of their presence. The mother had critically +overhauled the flock in her mind from a slight rise of ground, on a +level with their backs or slightly higher, and made deliberate choice of +a fat wether, having a discriminating eye, and being too good a judge of +sheep flesh to take any but such as are in prime condition. A single +quick rush and she has secured her victim, in an instant, before the +rest are fairly upon their feet, and is off, carrying the sheep in her +mouth as easily as a cat would her kitten, her delighted cubs trotting +behind. Every two or three nights this occurrence was repeated, with no +interference upon the part of the Mexicans. "What recks it them?" "The +hungry sheep look up and are not fed." On the contrary, the bears are. +As for the Mexicans, they have "lost no bear!" To have seen the intruder +would have been only a gratuitous anxiety, since nothing in the world +would have tempted them to fire at it. Should they risk life and limb +for a sheep? and that the _patron's_, who had so many! It was not their +quarrel! The charge of the grizzly was a thing as much to be accepted as +an incident of the Sierras as the thunderbolt--equally dangerous to him +who should interfere as the lightning stroke to one daring to interpose +his rifle between the angry heavens and the fore-doomed tree. + +We may feel sure that the lesson is not lost upon the cubs. They are +taught energy, sagacity, craft in maturing their plans, courage and +promptness in their execution. They are taught reverence for the ursine +genius, unbounded admiration for their mother's leadership and +steadiness of nerve, at the same time that they are taught contempt for +the stupidity of sheep and the pusillanimity of humans. It may be that +an apologist for the latter might find a word to mitigate their too +severe sentence. A she grizzly of the Sierras, at night, with hungry +cubs to feed, is not an altogether pleasant thing to face when +infuriated by wounds, none of which may be bad enough to cripple her, +yet combined are amply sufficient to make her pretty cross and +dangerous. The Mexican is a poor shot, but what can you expect? His +vocation is a humble one. Were he of more positive and determined +temperament, he would be a _vaquero_ of the plains, or _boyero_ +(_Anglice_ "bull-whacker") on the Santa Fe trail or down in old Mexico; +and not the dry nurse of these "woolly idiots," in whose race, for +innumerable centuries, man has elaborately cultivated stupidity, and, by +systematic process of artificial selection, has faithfully eliminated +every sign of insubordination and the last trace of individuality of +temperament, and that which in our race is called character. No +native-born white man in this country can be induced to follow, for any +length of time, the vocation of shepherd. The deadly monotony of the +occupation drives him either to imbecility or desperation. It is well +known that men who habitually care for any animal come in time to +resemble him. Stable boys, bred to the vocation of groom, become +horse-faced and equine of disposition, eventually they wheeze and +whistle like a curry-comb. Cowboys partake of the scatter-brained +recklessness of the Texas steer which they tend. No one can admit dogs +to be daily and familiar companions without absorbing into his system +somewhat of their sense of humor and of their faithfulness. The +lion-tamer, who enters unscathed the den of his charge, must share the +robustious courage and determination of the beast with which he +associates. The rat-catcher, whether he be ferret or man, partakes of +the fierce slyness of the game he follows; and I remember that, years +ago, before I ever heard mention of this peculiarity of resemblance, I +could detect, plainly writ in the face of the attendant of "Mr. +Crowley," when he was kept in the old arsenal building in Central Park, +the reflected temperament and animalism of the poor, indolent, captive +chimpanzee, whose fellow and all too sympathetic friend he had made +himself. Naturalists are well aware of this phenomenon. + +If this be so, and stupidity catching, what more potent influence of +fatty degeneration of the intellect could there be than the +uninterrupted society of sheep, with nothing in the world to think of +except their care--without even the stimulating influence of gain to +redeem the paralyzing service. The sheep are not their own, and if the +bears eat them up the keepers do not feel the stimulating ache in their +money-pocket that might tempt them, however feebly, to resist +aggression. Moreover, as a rule, they are wretchedly armed. Each of +these men carried an old six-shooter of an outlandish and forgotten +pattern, good enough to try a chance shot at another Mexican with, but +only a source of more or less pleasurable titillation to a bear, were +one ever to be discharged at him, and about as effective as pelting an +alligator with strawberries. If the last stage of misery for a horse be +to drag, along its rigid road of stone and iron, the city horse-car with +its thankless freight of fares, the corresponding degradation of the +"gun" is to rest upon the hip of a degenerate sheep-herder, half +Spaniard, half Indian and half coyote. Any self-respecting weapon +reduced to such straits would be conscious of its low estate; its +magazine would revolve in a creaky, half-hearted, reluctant fashion; it +would doubtless fire an apologetic bullet; its report would be something +between "scat" and "beg your pardon," to which a bear would pay but +slight heed. Others of the Mexicans were armed with old muskets, +somewhat rusty and ramshackly, but with a furry longitudinal perforation +throughout their length, along which--it could not creditably be called +a bore--a ball could after a fashion, if you gave it time enough, be +propelled. Leonard was exceptionally fortunate in this respect; he +carried an old rim-fire .44-40 Winchester, the action of which +occasionally worked and occasionally did not. Comparatively speaking, he +was rather a swell in the matter of firearms; but if one should put his +trust in him in case of emergency as a sheet anchor to windward, there +was always the remote possibility, were the strain too intense, that he +might not be a dependence of absolute security. + +The afternoon of this day, much against my real inclination, but in +accordance with the prevailing desire, we started out, the whole rabble +of us, to follow the she grizzly's trail. It could not be called a +"still-hunt," for the reason that six men hunting in a pack are never +still; however, it did not matter. We found in a neighboring gulch bits +of the fleece, bones and hides of three sheep, and the sufficiently +plain evidence, upon the trampled and bloody ground, of recent feasts. +Yet this was the banqueting hall and not the children's nursery. A bear +thinks nothing of a little stroll of ten miles or so before or after +eating. It aids digestion, and in case of a female, as this was, wards +off an attack of the nerves. Particularly a bear with cubs would put at +least that distance between herself and hunters. Moreover they are so +clever that I doubt not this one knew already by scent and subtle +process of ratiocination how many of us there were in camp, where we +were from, the color of our hair, what sort of rifles we carried, their +caliber, how heavy a bullet and how many grains of powder they fired. +This is said in the light of after events and of further experience. + +That afternoon, in our unjustifiably sanguine forecast, we had hopes of +finding this particular bear. The half-witted "Portugee," of whom I have +spoken, showed especial zeal in the presence of the _patron_, and +insisted, in spite of mild and repeated caution, in going ahead and +scrupulously investigating every possible ambuscade where there was the +remotest chance of finding the bear, or, what was much more likely, of +the bear finding him. In consideration of the fact that this was a she +one which we were after, that she was proud and well fed, and on the +lookout for pursuit, had the "Portugee" found her, she would in all +probability have received his visit with cordial warmth. Not speaking +his tongue fluently, I was unable to express my solicitude except by +signs and admonitory gestures. The rest of the party apparently seemed +to think that, while the bear was interested and occupied with him, a +good opportunity would be offered for getting in a shot; and as +Portuguese were a drug in the market in that part of California, and +grizzly bears, dead, a great rarity, he was suffered to contribute his +mite to the success of _la chasse_, and all went merrily. Not a thicket +or a den did he leave unprobed. + +An hour or two were spent in beating up the gulch to its head. Then a +barren mountain side presented itself, three or four miles of it, with +no shelter. Leonard ran the trail here like a dog, literally ran it, and +the pack of hunters tailed behind him for a half or three-quarters of a +mile. A bit before sundown we were at the edge of the chaparral--a +tangle of bushes and quaking asp--rather a baddish place in which to +stumble upon her serene highness. However, my companions did me the +honor to promote me to the "Portugee's" place and function. With rifle +across the crook of arm, we stole as silently as might be--the United +States army would have made more noise--into the jungle. Sunset overtook +us up on the far edge, with a stretch of open forest in sight, and, I +doubt not, with Madam Bruin and her cubs miles ahead in some +inaccessible snarl of bushes, where the crackling underbrush would warn +her of approach as fully as could the most complete system of burglar +alarms. + +That night, leaving word that whoever might be the first to stir in the +morning should call me, I unrolled my blankets under a spruce somewhat +apart from the crowd, and was soon asleep. Before daylight I was astir, +had a cup of coffee and a bite, and was off. Upon the previous afternoon +I had picked the direction I would take, which was to skirt certain +openings in the forest below. Fresh sign I saw that assured me of the +excellence of the range for bear, but I encountered nothing alive worth +powder and ball, and returned to camp about 9 o'clock. I was greeted by +Leonard with the joyful news that during my absence he had seen from +camp a big bear cross the side of the mountain only a mile or so away, +and disappear over the ridge. This happened about 7 o'clock. The chief +herder and my companion received the information somewhat in a spirit of +respectful incredulity, but Leonard assured me that it was so, and we +made preparations to follow the trail toward night. Meanwhile I +breakfasted and slept. + +We left camp about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, and without the slightest +difficulty found the beast's trail exactly where the Mexican had said we +should. Before this time I had killed an odd bear or so in Colorado, and +had had some little experience in unraveling the trail of game. It may +be rather priding myself upon the accomplishment, but let me here +acknowledge the superiority of professional talent. Leonard, to all +intents and purposes, had been born and raised on a sheep range. His +earliest recollections had been of the sheep camps of the Sierras, of +the reputation of the arch-enemy of the flock and of the havoc which he +works. From infancy he, like all the herders, had been constantly upon +the lookout for bear sign; it was his one keenest intellectual +accomplishment and diversion. The result of this special training was +such an acuteness of vision and nice discrimination of eye that he could +clearly distinguish a bear's footprints upon the naked sand and gravel +where at a quick glance I was unable to see any indication whatever. A +single grain of sand displaced was sufficient to arrest his eye; he +detected it instantly. To him the minutest particle had its +weather-beaten side as well as a boulder. A bear could not put his foot +upon the ground without leaving an impress which he could detect. His +talent was so quick and unerring that we soon organized a division of +labor. He was to concentrate his energies and attention upon the trail, +while I, by his side or a step in advance, when the trail read itself +and permitted such a course, was to watch ahead and around for both of +us. Fortunately this arrangement was satisfactory to him. The hardest of +the trail to decipher was where it was written in condensed shorthand +across a mountain slide or _coulisse_ of naked granite boulders. Here +not one trace was to be found in a dozen yards. Fortunately we could +trust in the genius of the bear; he was aware, as well as La Place, that +a straight line is the shortest distance between two points. He +undoubtedly knew exactly where he was heading. We had his general +direction, and by beating about for a tuft of grass here with a blade +displaced, a stray gooseberry bush there with a leaf awry, and yonder a +patch of thicker vegetation, betraying interference, we soon succeeded, +owing mainly to Leonard's genius as a pathfinder, in getting through a +couple of acres of this most vague and illegible pedography. At last we +had the trail upon the mountain side once more, where, after such +difficulties surmounted, following it was a comparative luxury. + +After having proceeded in this manner for perhaps two hours, we entered +timber, and were obliged to advance with greater caution to avoid the +slightest sound which might betray our presence and give the alarm. With +two men the risk of doing this is increased in geometrical ratio. One +person alone, traveling through the woods, may, and almost certainly +will, break an occasional twig under foot. If game is within hearing, +the sound will inevitably be detected; the deer, if it be a deer, will +lift his head and listen; but if the hunter stops and waits for a time, +the chances are that the animal will, after due interval of silence, +resume his feeding if so engaged, or his rumination, be it physical or +moral, and the alarm may not prove fatal. Not so when companions are +hunting together. It would seem as if the second man, with dreadful +promptness, never failed to snap his twig also, which sounds as loud as +a pistol coming upon the strained attention of the listening beast, who +is off like a streak, leaving the disappointed hunter, as he hears him +crashing away, to moralize that company in the chase halves the pleasure +and doubles the sorrow. The only safety where union is necessary is to +proceed with exaggerated and fantastic caution. + +Leonard was a treasure in this. He had dreamt of grizzlies all his life, +yet had never been in at the death. His heart was in the hunt--he fairly +sighed for gore. We crept into the woods as silent as panthers and as +"purry" in the ardor of the chase. After a mile or so our bear had come +to an immense fallen spruce, lying across the trail, with the big butt, +five or six feet in diameter, to our right, the top pointing up the +hill. Over the middle of this, at right angles, lay another large tree, +with the point toward us. I felt that behind the first of these, if I +had been the original and unmolested settler in these parts, as the bear +was, with all the world before me where to choose, I should have made +the bed for my morning nap. It was long after daylight when he had +reached this covert. He had doubtless been stirring soon after sunset +the evening before; he had, it is not unlikely, been traveling all +night; had feasted heartily upon a sheep during that interval, and by +the time he reached this place, which may have been in his mind from the +start, was feeling comfortably lazy and inclined to the refreshment of +sleep. Behind that tree, so admirably suited for the purpose, I trusted +that he might still remain. The big end would protect a cool space from +the heat of the morning sun, and we might yet be so lucky as to find him +in his lair beneath its shelter. A signal to Leonard was enough, and we +proceeded to circle the fallen timber, which fortunately the wind +permitted, with all the caution of which we were capable. Had the +gentleman we were after been our dearest friend at the crisis of a +fever, we could not have tiptoed about his bed with more solicitude lest +we disturb sweet slumber. The big tree lay in front of us; by this we +crept at a respectful distance, and then approached the further end of +the tree lying across it. With great care I sneaked up until I could +look over its trunk at the desired point. Alas! no bear had made his +nest there. + +Sorrowfully, but without a sound, I crawled upon the intervening log and +slowly stood erect. There, directly beneath me, where I could have +jumped into it most comfortably, was the deserted form of the bear, +which he had dug in the morning within an hour after Leonard had seen +him, and in which the greater part of the day had been spent, until he +had stirred abroad for water, with which to wash down the recollection +of his muttons. Although ardently hoping that he was behind the tree, I +had not in the least expected to find his bed in this particular place. +Had he stayed quietly there until our arrival, he would have given one +of us a delicious surprise, and the mutual agitation of the moment might +have induced a shot with unpremeditated haste, and possibly have caused +me to get off that fallen spruce tree in somewhat quicker time than I +had climbed it. One naturally would not feel any keen desire to display +his acrobatic skill in walking a log for the entertainment of an +infuriated grizzly. A few hairs proclaimed him a cinnamon, who is either +a variety of the grizzly or his first cousin--authorities differ; at all +events, he closely resembles him except in color, which, although of a +uniform light, fady brown, might be an extreme type of the "sorrel top" +of the Rockies. In size the cinnamon fully holds his own with the +grizzly; I should say that his head was rather longer. The generous +excavation which this one had made showed that he was no mean +representative of his species. + +Not twenty yards away, and near the end of the big tree where I had +expected to find him, was a little spring. To this, still without a +word, we proceeded, saw where he had stood to drink more than once, +doubtless long and deep. To our left, in the soft earth, lay his +retreating footsteps--a continuation of the general direction of his +previous course. A moment's pause for closer scrutiny, a smile and a +whispered word exchanged--just to show that we were not bored; then, +respectful of the silence of the darkening woods, we were again upon the +trail. It was now easy to see why he had left his lair; it faced the +west, and the heat of the afternoon sun had annoyed him, warmly clad and +irritable with high living. + +We had proceeded only about a stone's throw further when I caught a +glimpse of our bear. Within twenty paces, under the shadow of a tree at +the edge of a cool, umbrageous thicket, between him and the setting sun, +lay the beast we were after; or, as I for a moment thought, judging +from the great inchoate mass of brown fur, a pair, perhaps male and +female, or one, it might be, a yearling cub. With finger lifted I +signaled Leonard to stop. A great head was slowly raised and turned my +way. A bullet between the eyes and down it went again, and I threw +another cartridge into the chamber, expecting to see the second bear +spring to his feet, ready to do whatever, in his judgment, the occasion +required, either to fight or to run. Whichever he might elect to do, it +was well to be prepared. "Give him another shot," said the prudent +Leonard, and I fired a second time, sending this ball quartering and, +like the first, through the brain; then I realized that there was but +one, and he of creditable size. We soon had him out in the open, for +nothing is easier to roll about than a bear just killed. He is like a +great jelly-fish, and I have seen a little terrier no larger than a +rabbit worry and shake a great carcass four times as large as the most +commodious kennel he could desire, provided he were a sensible pup and +had the comfortable instinct of wild things for snugness rather than +ostentatious display. Enough of daylight remained for us to get his pelt +off, with head and claws unskinned and attached, and to hurry over the +mountain by moonlight with our trophy, a junk of rank meat for such as +might desire it not forgotten. + +We were cordially welcomed back to camp, and, after the usual pow-wow, +the cook, with due formality, with Mexican _chile_ and Spanish +politeness, proceeded to concoct the boasted _chile con oso_--a much +overrated dish when made of a tough old cinnamon he bear. After I had +turned in I heard much laughter, and subsequently learned that it was at +an incident of the day. As we were starting out in the afternoon, and +before we had struck the bear's trail, in order to avoid any possibility +of a premature shot I had casually inquired of Leonard if he wished to +earn five dollars. + +"Certainly, Senor, I am always glad to get the chance." + +"Well, don't shoot then until I give the word, and you shall have it." + +This circumstance Leonard had innocently narrated to the group around +the camp-fire in the fuller elaboration of the hunt, and the story had +an immediate success, the idea seeming to prevail that nothing in the +world could have tempted him to fire before he was compelled to--which, +as a matter of fact, I think was only prudent on his part, considering +the arms he bore. + +The next morning, to the infinite chagrin of some of us, the younger +_patron_ discovered that his presence was required at home, where, if he +was mildly chid by my friend, his elder brother, who in generosity to +his junior had yielded his own place and the leadership of this +expedition, I should not greatly grieve. + +Upon the third day thereafter we regained the ranch. + +_Alden Sampson._ + + + + +The Ascent of Chief Mountain + + +In the most northern corner of the Piegans' country, in northwestern +Montana, almost grazing the Canadian border with its abrupt side, stands +a turret-shaped mountain. Behind it the great range of the Rockies, +which for hundreds of miles has been trending steadily northwood, bends +sharply away toward the west, leaving the corner on which the mountain +stands a huge protruding pedestal for its weird shape. Ninety years ago +Lewis and Clarke saw it from far to southward as they passed along the +dwindling Missouri and called it Tower Mountain; but to the Indians it +has always been The Chief Mountain. Even those prosaic German +geographers to whom we owe so much for information about our own and +other lands have either seen it and fallen under the spell of its +strange power, or have taken their nomenclature directly from the +Piegans, for they have crowned it Kaiser Peak. + +For more than a year we had been numbered with the Chief's subjects. +During the previous summer we had been seeking the acquaintance of the +mountain goat; not the shorn degenerate which throngs the slopes of the +Cascades and straggles among the southern peaks of Montana, but the true +snowy buffalo of the northern Rockies; and from the ledges of the St. +Mary Mountains, where we had sought him, could be seen still further to +the northward the Piegans' Chief. Of the range, yet not in it, like a +captain well to the front of his battle-line, he pressed out into the +broad prairie, as if leading a charge of Titans toward the far distant +lakes. And through the long months of an Eastern winter, and the still +longer months of an Eastern summer, above all the memories of that +wondrous land where every butte and mountain peak teems with legend, and +where every bison skull on the prairie tells its story, had towered the +clear-cut image of that Northern mountain, a worthy sovereign of any +man's allegiance. Now, as inevitably as an antelope returns to its lure, +we had returned for a closer look at our mountain. Down deep in our +hearts, battling with the awe which we felt for him, was the almost +unspoken hope that perhaps in some way we might struggle up his sheer +sides and make him, in a way he was to no one else, our king. + +We were a party of three, the Doctor and I, and our faithful packer, +Fox. A cold storm was blowing spitefully across the open foothills and +out on to the prairie as we broke camp under the high banks of Kennedy +Creek on the morning of the last stage of our journey. The clouds, +driving over the range from the northwest, swung so low that they hid +the peaks, and the great pedestal of the Chief met them all uncrowned, +indistinguishable from the others about him. It was one of those +doubtful mornings with which the mountains love to warn off strangers, +or to greet their friends--one which might presage a week of storm or +usher in a fortnight of surpassing beauty. + +We had camped for the night at the last of those ranches which stretch +along the bottom lands of the St. Mary River, and just as we started, +its owner, Indian Billy, decided to go with us. + +Even he had never been to the foot of his tribe's famous peak, and the +dark-skinned idlers of the ranch who gathered about us as we flung the +lash ropes over our horses could tell us little more than legends of +it. Several Bloods from across the Canadian border declared that the +boundary line ran, not where the white men had marked it on the prairie +with their insignificant piles of stones, but through the deep cleft in +the Chief's wall, where the Great Spirit himself had placed it; thus +giving to the Bloods, who knew it best, their proper share of the +mountain. And, getting warmer in their enthusiasm, they reminded Billy +of their standing challenge to his tribe, the Piegans--fifty horses to +anyone who should run around that wall, small as it seemed, in half a +day. + +For our part it was hard to realize even on that cold September morning +that the long dreaming was over and the reality before us. It took all +the straining of the pack ponies on the wet lead-ropes to remind us that +we were at last climbing the foothills of the great peak. Our presence +there, far from breaking the long enchantment, surrendered us bodily to +it, and Billy, riding over the successive slopes before us, swaying in +the saddle with the hawk-like motion of the prairie Indian, seemed a fit +ambassador to lead us to his king. As the day passed, the clouds +gradually lightened; and finally, just as we surmounted one of the +higher foothills, at the summit of the long, sloping, forest-clad +pedestal before us broke through the crown of the Chief. Toward us, on +the east, it showed a black rectangular wall 2,000 feet in length, 1,500 +in height, and from its sharp corners the broken mists streamed away +southward like tattered garments. + +A few hasty pictures, taken while Fox mended a broken pack cinch, and we +pressed on toward the foot of the mountain. Some benign influence was +with us even thus early, and we were guided into the easiest way. +Streaks of burned forest, bristling with windfalls, were slowly but +successfully threaded, long rock slides luckily avoided, while we +mounted steadily slope after slope; until finally, late in the +afternoon, we pulled our panting horses out, just above timber line, +upon the comparatively level summit of the pedestal. The foot of the +great crown wall was still a mile away and 1,000 feet above us, but we +were near enough and high enough for our purpose; and in a deep basin, +sheltered from the wind and carpeted with softest mountain grass, and +with the only water in the neighborhood sparkling up from a spring in +the bottom, we found a perfect camp. As soon as the tents were pitched, +Fox set about preparing dinner, while the seven horses, freed from their +loads, buried their noses in the grass in perfect contentment. + +As he sat in the door of the tent, the Doctor's eyes seemed glued to his +field glass, while the object lenses ever pointed in the one direction, +westward; under the brim of the Indian's broad hat, as he lay apparently +dozing before the fire, I could see his black eyes fixed on the same +point; and even Fox, constantly shifting his position about the fire, +rarely took one which placed his back toward that black wall behind +which the sun was now gradually sinking. For myself, all the longing of +the past year had concentrated itself into a desire to rush over this +last remaining distance; to get to that magic crown, to feel it with +hand and foot, and to see whether, as the Piegans aver, it denied even a +single foothold for a mortal man. + +After dinner the Doctor and I did go to it. We clambered out of our +little basin on to the higher portion of the domelike pedestal, and from +this platform, on which rests the great crown, looked past its two edges +at the vast mountain range behind it, stretching north and south. Then +we picked our way toward it, through the loose boulders and broken rock; +saw the summit hang further and further over us as we advanced into the +gloom at its foot, and after finally reaching it and pressing ourselves +against it where it rose sheer from its pedestal, we hurried back to +camp through the twilight, thoroughly awed by the solemnity of the +place. + +The storm of the morning had cleared into a most perfect night; and, as +we lay about the fire, Billy told us all that the old men had told him +of the Chief. A full-blooded Piegan, in his new life as a ranchman he +had not lost touch with the traditions of his tribe. Only one Piegan, he +said, had ever attempted to climb the mountain. Years ago a hunting +party of their young men had been encamped on the opposite side, where +the cliffs do not overhang so much, and ledges run temptingly up for a +distance; and one of them, the youngest and most ambitious of the band, +declared that he would go to the summit. He started, and his companions +watched him from below until he passed along one of the very highest +ledges, out of sight. Then the spirit of the mountain must have met +him; for, though they waited many days, and searched for him all around +the base, he never came back. And the Piegans, being a prairie tribe and +not over fond of the mountains at best, thereafter avoided any close +acquaintance with their king. + +A story had come to them, however, from the Flatheads across the +range--a tribe whose prowess they always respected in war, as they +believed in their truthfulness in peace--and as the story related to +their mountain, they had treasured it among their own legends. Still +earlier, many years before even the oldest Piegan was a boy, there had +lived a great Flathead warrior, a man watched over by a spirit so mighty +that no peril of battle or of the hunt could overcome him. When at last +in his old age he came to die, he told the young men his long-kept +secret. Many years before, as the time approached for him to go off into +the forest and sleep his warrior sleep, in which he hoped to see the +vision which should be his guide and protection through life, he had +decided to seek a spot and a spirit which had never before been tried. +So, carrying the usual sacred bison skull for his pillow, he had +crossed the mountains eastward into the far-off Piegan country. Then, +with none to aid him save the steady power of his own courage, he had +ventured upon the ledges of the Chief of the Mountains, and, choking +down each gasp of panic when at overhanging corners the black walls +seemed striving to thrust him off and down, he had finally forced his +way to the very summit. For four days and nights he had fasted there, +sleeping in the great cleft which one can see from far out on the +prairie. On each of the first three nights, with ever increasing +violence, the spirit of the mountain had come to him and threatened to +hurl him off the face of the cliff if he did not go down on the +following day. Each time he had refused to go, and had spent the day +pacing the summit, chanting his warrior song and waving his peace pipe +in the air as an offering, until finally, on the fourth night, the +spirit had yielded, had smoked the pipe, and had given him the token of +his life. None of the young Flatheads, however, said Billy, had dared to +follow their great warrior's example; so that to this day he was the +only man who had braved the spirit of the Chief and made it his friend. + +[Illustration: THE CHIEF'S CROWN, FROM THE EAST.] + +After we were rolled in our blankets, and the late moon, rising from +the prairie ocean behind us, had turned the dark, threatening wall to +cheering silver, we thought again of the old warrior's steadfastness and +longed to make his example ours. + + * * * * * + +The Doctor's thermometer marked 20 degrees Fahrenheit when Fox called +us, and the morning bucket which he dashed over us was flavored with +more of the spirit of duty than usual. But otherwise the weather had +been made for us. Yesterday's storm had beaten down the smoke from +Washington forest fires, which had clouded everything for the past +month, and the Sweet Grass Hills twinkled across one hundred miles of +prairie as if at our feet; and yet there was hardly a breath of wind. +Under the lee of the wall itself absolute stillness brooded over ledges +which even a moderate breeze could have made dangerous. We did not make +an early start. The thing could be done quickly if it could be done at +all, for there was only 1,500 feet of cliff. + +Our men did not give the attempt to reach the summit from this, the +eastern side, even the scant compliment of a doubt; in their minds its +failure was certain, but they were willing to see how far we could get +up. The Doctor, too, had at first suggested, and with perfect +correctness, that to try a difficult side of a mountain before +reconnoitering the other was bad mountaineering, to say the least. But, +on the other hand, this east side was the famous side of the Chief--the +side which every passer-by on the prairie saw and wondered at. With our +glasses we had mapped a course which seemed not impossible; was it not +better to meet our king face to face than to steal on him from behind? +Besides, this wonderful weather might not last long enough for us to +reach the other side. And so our final conclusion was to try the east +face. + +Half way up the sheer face of the cliff was divided horizontally by a +broad, steep shelf which ran nearly the length of the mountain. That +shelf could clearly be crossed at any place; the difficulty would lie +with the walls below and above it. The lower one was bad enough at best, +but it was easy to recognize as least bad a place where a slope of shale +abutted against it, shortening it some 300 feet. The upper wall in +general seemed even worse, but it was furrowed by two deep chimneys, +side by side, one of which led into the mountain's well-known cleft. +The other chimney seemed to lead directly to the summit, but its lower +mouth was inaccessible--cut off by overhanging cliff. Our plan, +therefore, if we could ever reach the halfway shelf, was to use the +first chimney in the beginning, then try to find a way around the +dividing shoulder into the second, then follow that to the top. And at 9 +o'clock we began on the lower wall. + +Of course, the work which followed was not so difficult as it had +promised from below--rock work rarely is--but it thoroughly taxed our +slender experience, and, for a single man without a rope, must have been +far worse. The Doctor and I took turns in leading, carrying up or having +thrown to us from below a rope, on which the others then ascended. Most +of the difficulty was thus confined to one man, and he could often be +assisted from beneath. We were not skilled enough in the use of the rope +to risk tying ourselves together. + +Two hundred feet up came our first trouble, perhaps the worst of the +day. We were sidling along a narrow shelf, with arms outstretched +against the wall above, when we reached a spot where the shelf was +broken by a round protruding shoulder. Beyond it the ledge commenced +again and seemed to offer our only way upward. I was leading at the +time, and, after examining it, turned back to a wider portion of the +shelf for consultation. It was not a place one would care to try if +there was an alternative. + +We braced the Indian against the wall, and his skillful hand sent the +lariat whirling up at a sharp rock above our heads. Time after time the +noose settled fairly around it, but found no neck to hold it, and came +sliding down. Then, almost before we knew it, the Doctor had run out +along the ledge to the shoulder and had started around. For a moment he +hung, griping the rounded surface with arms and knees; then a dangerous +wriggle and he was on the other side. + +Under his coaching the Indian and I followed; but Fox, when half way, +lost his head, and barely succeeded in getting back to the starting +point. He would not try again. The poor fellow's moccasins had lost some +of their nails and he had slipped once or twice that morning, thus +destroying the nerve of one who had at other times shown himself a good +climber. But of the Indian's companionship for the rest of the day we +were now sure. + +Again, when near the top of that first wall, and when the halfway ledge +seemed almost within our grasp, the shallow cleft--up which we were +scrambling--ended in a deep pocket in the cliff's face, with no outlet +above. The Doctor tried it at one corner, but the treacherous crumbling +rock warned him back. I tried it at another, but was stopped by an +overhang in the cliff. No help for it but to go back and try to find a +way around. + +Fifty feet below we landed on a small shelf running horizontally along +the mountain's face, and, after following it northward a few moments, we +found another channel leading up. The Doctor started to investigate it, +while Billy and I continued on slowly looking for a better. Almost +immediately, however, we heard the Doctor shout "All right," and, +following him, came out at last upon the great halfway shelf of the +mountain. + +This was a steep slope of shale, which seemed in places quite ready to +slide in an avalanche of loose rock over the edge of the cliff below; +but the relief of being out upon it, and able once more to stand upright +without the sensation of a wall against your face, apparently trying to +shove you outward from your slender foothold, was simply indescribable. + +After crossing the shelf and eating our lunch in the mouth of the first +or left-hand chimney, we attacked the upper wall. Following up the +chimney a short distance, we found at last a narrow ledge leading to the +right, and, creeping around on it, I looked into the right-hand chimney +above its forbidding mouth. It led as a broad, almost easy, staircase +clear to the top of the wall above, and for the first time we felt as if +our king were really ours. + +Six or seven hundred feet more of steady work, and we could feel the +summit breeze beginning to blow down the narrow mouth of the chimney. +Billy was then sent to the front, and at half past one the first Piegan +stepped out on the summit of the Chief Mountain. + +It is a long ridge of disintegrated rock, flanked at either end by lower +rounded turrets, and at its highest part is no wider than a New England +stone wall. On the opposite western side the cliffs fell away as on our +own, but they seemed shorter, were composed of looser rock, and far down +below we could see steep slopes of shale meeting them part way. After +we had picked out our various landmarks in the wonderful outlook about +us, and I had made my record from compass and barometer, we pushed our +way carefully along to the highest point of the narrow ridge, in order +to mark it with a cairn of rocks. Just as we reached it, the Indian, who +was still in the lead, suddenly stopped and pointed to the ground. +There, on the very summit of Chief Mountain, safely anchored by rocks +from the effect of wind or tempest, lay a small, weather-beaten bison +skull. It was certainly one of the very oldest I have ever seen. Even in +the pure air of that mountain top it had rotted away until there was +little else than the frontal bone and the stubs on which had been the +horns. Billy picked it up and handed it to us quietly, saying with +perfect conviction, "The old Flathead's pillow!" + +We left the skull where it had been found. Much as we should have +treasured it as a token of that day, the devotion of the old warrior who +had brought it was an influence quite sufficient to protect this +memorial of his visit. We shared his reverence far too much to allow us +to remove its offering. And then, too, as Billy suggested, we were still +on top of the Chief, and the Chief had certainly been very forbearing +to us. Those long walls, now darkened by the afternoon shade, those +narrow ledges whence the downward climber could no longer avoid seeing +the stone he dislodged bound, after two or three lengthening jumps, +clear to the pedestal below, loomed very suggestively before his mind. +But the Chief still remained gracious, and Billy worked even more +steadily and sure-footedly going down than in the morning. We had all +gained confidence, and besides we were certain of our course. By 5 +o'clock we had reached the last bad place--where Fox had left us--and, +after avoiding that by swinging down hand over hand on the rope from a +ledge above, it was only a few moments to the bottom. + +That night, after we were all safe in camp, and the great cliff beamed +down on us more kindly than ever in the moonlight, the Doctor and I +decided that we had been more favored than the old Flathead warrior, for +the spirit of our mountain had been with us even before we reached its +top. + +And for our success an explanation beyond our physical powers seemed +necessary to others also; for, when a few days later we returned to the +ranch in the St. Mary's Valley, Billy, who had preceded us, met us with +the mien of the prophet who is denied by his own, and told us that his +cousins, the Bloods from across the border, had suggested that, when +next he returned from a trip to the range, he should bring them a +likelier story than that he had climbed the east face of the Chief +Mountain. + +_Henry L. Stimson._ + + + + +The Cougar + + +It was upwards of twelve years ago that I had been down to one of the +Rio Grande River towns herding up Mexicans, whom I expected to aid me in +discovering gold where none existed. On my way down I had run across a +mountain lion making off with a lamb, and shot and secured him after a +little strategic maneuvering. On the return journey, after I had hired +as many of the greasers as I desired, I camped at night about twenty +miles from home, in a log cabin that had lost the door, the roof and all +the chinking from between the logs. + +There was no reason to fear wild beasts--and the cabin would have been +no protection for me even if there had been; nor was the structure any +protection from the numerous cut-throat, horse-stealing Mexicans who +flourished in that section of the country as thickly as cactus. However, +I lariated my horse and threw down my blankets in this tumble-down +shack, and turned in. I have quite a habit of sleeping on my back, and I +was awakened some time in the night by a feeling of oppression on my +chest. Having been accustomed to life in a country where the Indians +were rampant, and where the wise man on awakening looked about him +before stirring, I opened my eyes without moving, and there, standing +directly on my breast, looking me squarely in the face, was a skunk, +with its nose not, I swear, six inches from my own. + +It was a bright moonlight night, and I could see that the little devil +was of the kind whose bite is said to convey hydrophobia. But that did +not worry me; it was not the bite I feared. I realized perfectly that if +I moved I might get myself into trouble. I knew that the only thing for +me to do was to let the skunk gambol over me until he wearied of the +pastime and went out of the cabin. + +I have a lurking suspicion that that skunk knew I was awake and in +mental agony; for, after looking me in the face, he ran down my body on +one leg and then up again, actually smelling of one of my ears; and then +he trotted off me on to the floor of the cabin, where he nosed about +awhile, then up again on my body; and, after sprinting a few seconds +over my person, he went down and out of the cabin. + +So soon as he had disappeared out of the door I jumped to my feet and, +drawing my gun, rushed out after him. He was plainly visible just to the +right of the cabin, and I blazed away. Immediately after I had shot him +I regretted it, for I had to move camp. + +The next day, on my way back to camp, I journeyed over a divide that was +more or less noted as a den for mountain lions; though to designate any +particular locality as a "den" for cougars is incorrect, for it is not +an animal that remains in any one place for any great length of time. He +is a wandering pirate, who makes no one district his home for any long +period. + +However, this especial divide was said to harbor more of them than any +other; or, at least, there were more signs of them, and more were +reported to be started from there by hunters than elsewhere in the +territory. Be that as it may, on the particular day of which I write I +accidentally ran across the only cougar I ever have killed which gave me +a fight and stampeded my horse, so that I was obliged to foot it into +camp. + +I do not think the bronco is as fearful of the cougar as of the bear, at +least my experience has not been such. I have had a mustang jump pretty +nearly from under me on winding a bear, and I have wasted minutes upon +minutes in getting him near the carcass of a dead one, that I might pack +home a bit of bruin's highly-scented flesh, and I never had any similar +experience where the cougar was concerned. I have had my pony evince +reluctance to approach the slain lion, but not show the absolute terror +which seizes them in the neighborhood of bear. + +My experience at this particular time, as I say, was novel in two +respects--first, the fright with which my bronco was stricken; and +second, the fight shown by the cougar. I had reached the top of the +divide, and was picking my way across the fallen timber, which so often +blocks the trail over the tops of divides in New Mexico. I remember +distinctly having gained a clear spot that was pretty well filled with +wild violets, which grew in great profusion thereabouts, and was guiding +my pony that I should not trample upon them; for in that God-forsaken +district, 10,000 feet above the level of the sea, it seemed too bad to +crush the life out of the dainty little flowers that hold up their heads +to the New Mexico sunshine. + +Without warning, my bronco, which was traveling along at a fox-trot, +stopped suddenly, and looking up I saw, not more than fifty yards away, +about as large a mountain lion as I had ever encountered, standing +motionless and looking at us with utmost complacency. To throw myself +out of the saddle and draw my Sharps-forty from the saddle holster was +the work of a very few seconds. Throwing the bridle rein over my arm, I +slipped in a cartridge, and was just pulling down on him when the cougar +started off at a swinging trot to one side at right angles to where he +had stood, and through some small quaking aspens. Without thinking of +the bridle being over my arm, I knelt quickly in order to get a better +sight of the animal, and almost simultaneously pressed the trigger. + +As I did so my bronco threw up his head, which spoiled my aim, and, +instead of sending the ball through the cougar's heart, as I had hoped +to do, it went through the top of his shoulders, making a superficial +wound--not sufficiently severe to interfere with his locomotion, as I +immediately discovered; for, with a combined screech and growl, that +lion wheeled in my direction, and made for me with big jumps that were +not exactly of lightning rapidity, but were ground-covering enough to +create discomfort in the object of his wrath. + +My bronco, meanwhile, was jumping all over the ground, and I realized I +could not hold him and make sure of my aim. To swing myself into the +saddle and make away would have been simple, but I knew enough of the +cougar to know that if I retreated, he, in his fury, would be sure to +follow; and on that mountain side, with its fallen timber and rough +going, I should have little chance in a race with him. I had no revolver +to meet him in the saddle at short range, and a knife was not to my +liking for any purpose, so far as an infuriated cougar was concerned, +except for skinning him, once I had put sufficient lead into his carcass +to quiet his nerves. There was nothing for me to do but fight it out on +foot; therefore I dropped the bridle rein and turned the bronco loose +(thinking he would run his fright off in a short distance), and gave +myself up to the business of the moment, which, with the beast getting +nearer every instant, was becoming rather serious. I do not know how +others have felt under like conditions; but there is something about the +look of a cougar on business bent, with its greenish, staring eyes, that +produces a most uncomfortable sensation. I have been sent up a tree +post-haste by a bear, and I have had an old bull moose give me an +unpleasant quarter of an hour, but I am sure I never experienced a more +disagreeable sensation than when I looked through my rifle sights at +that loping lion. He did not seem to be in any feverish anxiety to reach +me, but there was an earnest air about his progression that was ominous. + +Under any circumstances, it is not altogether pleasing to have a +mountain lion, on his busy day, making for you, and with only about +fifteen to twenty yards between him and his quarry. I presume the +delicacy of the situation must have impressed itself upon me; for my +next shot, although I aimed for one of those hideous eyes, missed far +enough to clip off a piece of skin from the top of his skull and to whet +his appetite for my gore. My bullet seemed to give him an added +impetus; for, with almost a single bound and a blood-chilling screech, +by the time I had put another cartridge into my single-shot rifle, he +was practically on top of me. Fortunately, his spring had landed him +short, and in another instant I had very nearly blown his entire head +off. He was a monster. I skinned him and hung his pelt on a tree; and, +on foot, made my way into camp, after a fruitless search for my bronco. + +I have killed five cougars, and this is the only one that ever gave me a +fight. I record it with much pleasure, for there is an uncertainty about +the cougar's temperament and an alacrity of movement that are altogether +unsettling. You never know in what mood you find the mountain lion, and +he does not seem by any chance to be in the same one more than once, for +those I have shot have evinced different dispositions; generally, +however, bordering on the cowardly. At times their actions are +sufficient to characterize them as the veriest cowards in the world, and +yet again, on very slight provocation, they are most aggressive and +cruelly ferocious. There are many well-authenticated stories, to be had +for the asking of any old mountaineer, of the unwonted craftiness and +ferocity of the cougar, and I suppose I could fill a couple of chapters +of this volume by recounting yarns that have been told me during my +Western life. + +Between ourselves, I do not think hunting the cougar is very much sport. +It is an instructive experience, and one, I think, every hunter of big +game should have; but, at the same time, in my opinion it does not +afford the sport of still-hunting deer, antelope, elk, moose or bears. +In the first place, there is really no time you can still-hunt the +cougar except in winter, when there is a light snow on the ground, and +at all times it is most difficult, because you are dealing with an +animal that embodies the very quintessence of wariness, and is ever on +the lookout for prey and enemies. You have to deal with an animal that +knows every crevice and hole of the mountain side, that moves by night +in preference to day, and rarely travels in the open; whose great +velvety paws enable it to sneak about absolutely unheard, and that will +crouch in its lair while you pass, perhaps within a dozen feet. + +Yet there are only two ways of really hunting the mountain lion--by +still-hunting and by baiting. I have tried baiting a number of times, +but have never found it successful. Others, I understand, have found it +so; but in a score of cases, where I have provided tempting morsels, and +lain out all night in hopes of getting a shot at the marauder, in none +have I been rewarded, and in only one or two have I got a glimpse of a +pair of shining eyes, that disappeared in the gloom almost on the +instant of my discovering them. + +Probably the most successful method of getting a shot at this wary beast +is by hunting it with dogs (though I never had the experience), for the +mountain lion has small lungs and makes a short, fast race. With dogs on +his trail he is likely to take to a tree after a not very long run, +which rarely occurs when he is still-hunted on foot. Yet, if the hunter +values the lives of his dogs, he must be sure of his first shot, for the +cougar is a tough customer to tackle when in his death throes; and I +have been told, by those who have hunted in this way, that many a young +and promising dog has had the life crushed out of him by the dying lion. +Their forelegs are short and very powerful; but, curiously enough, +unlike the bear, they do not use them in cutting and slashing so much +as in drawing the victim to them to crush out its life with their strong +jaws. + +I have said, one never knows how to take the cougar. Almost every mining +camp in the West will produce somebody who has met and scared him to +flight by a mere wave of the hand or a shout, and that identical camp +will as like as not produce men that have had the most trying +experiences with the same animal. It is this knowledge that makes you, +to say the least, a little uncomfortable when you meet one of these +creatures. I have had many trying experiences of one kind and another, +and hunted many different kinds of game, but none ever harassed my soul +as the cougar has. On one occasion I had been about five miles from +camp, prospecting for gold, which I had discovered in such alluring +quantities as to keep me panning until darkness put an end to my work +and started me homeward. It was a pretty dark night, and my trail lay +along the side of a mountain that was rather thickly wooded and a pretty +fair sort of hunting country. I had left my cabin early in the morning, +intent on finding one of the numerous fortunes that was confidently +believed to be hidden away in those New Mexico gulches, and was armed +only with pick, shovel and pan. I was sauntering along, beset by dreams +of prospective prosperity, based on the excellent finds I had made, when +suddenly in front of me--I am sure not more than twenty-five feet--two +great balls of fire rudely awakened me and brought my progress to an +abrupt halt. I dare say it took a second or two to bring me down to +earth, but when the earthward flight was accomplished I immediately +concluded that those balls of fire must belong to a mountain lion. + +At that time my experience with the cougar had been sufficient to put me +in an uncertain frame of mind as to just what to expect of the creature. +I had not an idea whether he was going to spring at me or whether I +could scare him away. However, on chance, I broke the stillness of the +night by one of those cowboy yells, in the calliope variations of which +I was pretty well versed in those days, and, to my immense relief, the +two glaring balls of fire disappeared. + +Trudging on my way, I had once more lost myself in the roseate future +incidental to placers averaging three dollars in gold to the cubic +yard, when, as suddenly as before, and as directly in front of me, those +two glaring balls shone out like a hideous nightmare. This time, I +confess, I was a little bit annoyed. I knew that, as a rule, mountain +lions do not follow you unless they are ravenous with hunger or smell +blood. I had not been hunting, and, consequently, my clothes and hands +were free from gore, and I was therefore forced to the sickening +conclusion that this particular beast had selected me as a toothsome +morsel for its evening repast. I cannot honestly say I was flattered by +the implied compliment, and, summoning all my nerve, I reached for a +rock and hurled it at those eyes, to hear it crash into the dry brush, +and, greatly to my peace of mind, to see the diabolical lights go out, +for it was too dark to distinguish the animal itself. + +Congratulating myself on the disappearance of the hideous +will-o'-the-wisp, I set out at a five-mile-an-hour gait for camp. My +castles in the air had by this time quite dissolved, and I was attending +strictly to the business of the trail, wishing camp was at hand instead +of a mile off, when once more those greenish lanterns of despair loomed +up ahead of me--not more than a dozen feet away, it seemed. I presume +the beast had been trailing me all the time, though, after its second +visitation, I kept a sharp lookout without discovering it, but evidently +it had kept track of my movements. + +I had no proof of its being the same animal, of course, but I was pretty +well persuaded of its identity, and I became thoroughly convinced that +this particular cougar had grown weary of waiting for its supper, and +was about to begin its meal without even the courtesy of "by your +leave." The uncanny feature of the experience was that not a sound +revealed its approach on any occasion, and I had no intimation of its +call until it dropped directly in my path. I leaned against a friendly +tree and thought pretty hard, watching the animal most intently to see +that it did not advance. It stood there as still as death, so far as I +could distinguish, not moving even its head, and the steady glare of its +eyes turned full upon me. + +I made up my mind that, if the animal was going to feast on me that +evening, I would disarrange its digestion, if possible. My short-handled +prospecting pick was the nearest approach I had to a weapon, and, +summoning all my ancient baseball skill, and feeling very carefully all +around me to see that there were no intervening branches to arrest its +flight, I hurled that pick at those two shining eyes, with a fervid wish +that it might land between them. My aim was true and it landed--just +where I cannot say, but I do know that it struck home; for, with a +screech calculated to freeze one's blood, and a subsequent growl, the +lion made off. For the rest of the mile to camp I had eyes on all sides +of the path at once, but I was not molested. + +I have since often wondered whether hunger or pure malice possessed that +brute. Owen Wister, to whom I told the story not very long ago, +suggested curiosity, and I am half inclined to believe his +interpretation; for, if hunger had been the incentive, it seems as if a +tap on the nose with a prospecting pick would not have appeased it, +though the cougar's propensity for following people, out of +unadulterated wantonness to frighten them, is well known. At any rate, +he showed his cowardly side that trip. + +The cougar is a curious beast, capricious as a woman. One day he follows +his prey stealthily until the proper opportunity for springing upon it +comes; again he will race after a deer in the open; at one time he will +flee at a shout, at another he will fight desperately. They are +powerful animals, particularly in the fore quarters. I have seen one +lope down a mountain side, through about six inches of snow, carrying a +fawn by the nape of the neck in its jaws, and swinging the body clear. + +In the West generally, I think, the lion is considered cowardly--a +belief I share, though agreeing with Theodore Roosevelt, who in "The +Wilderness Hunter" says cougars, and, in fact, all animals vary in moods +just as much as mankind. Because of their feline strategy and +craftiness, they are most difficult animals to hunt; I know none more +so. Neither do I know of any beast so likely to still the tenderfoot's +heart. Their cry is as terror-striking as it is varied. I have heard +them wail so you would swear an infant had been left out in the cold by +its mamma; I have heard them screech like a woman in distress; and, +again, growl after the conventional manner attributed to the monarch of +the forest. The average camp dog runs to cover when a cougar is +awakening the echoes of the mountain. I should call it lucky, for those +who hunt with dogs, that the lion does not pierce the atmosphere by his +screeches when being hunted; for, if he did, I fear it would be a +difficult matter to keep dogs on his trail. There seems to be something +about his screeching that particularly terrorizes dogs. + +_Casper W. Whitney._ + + + + +[Illustration: YAKS GRAZING.] + +Big Game of Mongolia and Tibet + + +From remote antiquity hunting has been a favorite pastime of the +emperors of China, but at no time has it been conducted with such +magnificence as under the Mongol dynasty in the thirteenth century and +during the reigning Manchu one. + +Marco Polo's account of a hunt of Kublai Khan reads like a fairy tale. +The Emperor left his capital every year in March for a hunting +expedition in Mongolia, accompanied by all his barons, thousands of +followers and innumerable beaters. "He took with him," says Polo, "fully +10,000 falconers and some 500 gerfalcons, besides peregrines, sakers and +other hawks in great numbers, including goshawks, to fly at the +waterfowl. He had also numbers of hunting leopards (_cheetah_) and +lynxes, lions, leopards, wolves and eagles, trained to catch boars and +wild cattle, bears, wild asses, stags, wolves, foxes, deer and wild +goats, and other great and fierce beasts. + +"The Emperor himself is carried upon four elephants in a fine chamber, +made of timber, lined inside with plates of beaten gold and outside with +lions' skins. And sometimes, as they may be going along, and the Emperor +from his chamber is holding discourse with the barons, one of the latter +shall exclaim: 'Sire, look out for cranes!' Then the Emperor instantly +has the top of his chamber thrown open, and, having marked the cranes, +he casts one of his gerfalcons, whichever he pleases; and often the +quarry is struck within his view, so that he has the most exquisite +sport and diversion there, as he sits in his chamber or lies on his bed; +and all the barons with him get the enjoyment of it likewise. So it is +not without reason I tell you that I do not believe there ever existed +in the world, or ever will exist, a man with such sport and enjoyment as +he has, or with such rare opportunities." + +In the latter part of the seventeenth century, during the reign of the +Emperor K'ang-hsi, Father Gerbillon followed the Emperor several times +on his hunting expeditions into Mongolia, and has told us in his +accounts of these journeys of the enthusiasm and skill displayed by the +Emperor in the pursuit of game, which he usually shot with arrows, +though he also had hawks and greyhounds with him. + +I find no mention of the use of firearms in these imperial hunts, nor do +I believe that it has ever been considered, by the Tartars and Mongols, +sportsmanlike to use them. + +Coursing and hawking were probably introduced into China and Mongolia +after the Mongol conquest of Western Asia, where those royal sports had +then been in vogue for a long time. At present the Manchus keep great +numbers of hawks, caught for the most part in the northern portion of +the province of Shan-hsi, and with them they take hares and cranes. +Greyhounds are no longer numerous in Mongolia and China, though they are +much prized, and I have seen some among the Ordos Mongols and in Manchu +garrisons. They were short-haired, of a clear tan color with black +points, and showed good blood in their small tails and depth of chest. + +Besides the great annual hunts on the steppes--which, leaving aside the +sport and incidental invigorating influence on the courtiers, helped, by +the vast numbers of troops which took part in them, to keep quiet the +then turbulent Mongol tribes--the emperors of China have had, at +different times, great hunting parks, inclosed by high walls, at +convenient distances from their capital, or even in close proximity to +it, where they could indulge their fondness for the chase. Several of +these parks (called _wei chang_) are still preserved for imperial hunts, +and one I visited in 1886, to the north of Jehol and about six days' +travel from Peking, is some ninety miles long from north to south, and +over thirty miles from east to west. It is well stocked with pheasants, +roebucks, stags, and, it is said, there are also tigers and leopards in +it. The park is guarded by troops, and any person caught poaching in it, +besides receiving corporal punishment, is exiled for a period of a year +and a half to two years to a distant town of the empire. During my visit +to this park, I and my three companions camped just outside one of the +gates, and, by paying the keepers a small sum, we were able to get daily +a few hours' shooting in a little valley inside the wall and near our +camp. Though we had no dogs, and lost all the winged birds and wounded +hares, we bagged in nine or ten days over 500 pheasants, 150 hares, 100 +partridges and a few ducks. + +A mile or so south of Peking is another famous hunting park, called the +_Nan-hai-tzu_, in which is found that remarkable deer, not known to +exist in a wild state in any other spot, called _Cervus davidi_. Of late +years a number of these deer have been raised in the imperial park of +Uwino at Tokio, and also in the Zoological Garden of Berlin, where a +pair were sent by the German Minister to China, Mr. Von Brandt. This +deer is known to the Chinese as the _ssu-pu-hsiang-tzu_, "the four +dissimilarities," because, while its body shows points of resemblance to +those of the deer, horse, cow and ass, it belongs to neither of those +four species--so say the Chinese. + +The Chinese proper show but rarely any great love for sport. They are +fond of fishing, and I have seen some very good shots among them, +especially at snipe shooting, when, with their match-locks fired from +the hip, they will frequently do snap shooting of which any of our crack +shots might be proud. But the Chinese are essentially pot hunters, and +have no sportsmanlike instincts as have the Manchus and Mongols, with +whom sport is one of the pleasures of life, though it is also a source +of profit to many Mongol tribes. In winter they supply with game--deer, +boars, antelope, hares, pheasants and partridges--the Peking market, +bringing them there frozen from remote corners of their country. + +Among the big game in the northern part of the Chinese Empire the first +place properly belongs to tigers and leopards. In Korea tigers are quite +common, and a special corps of tiger hunters was kept up until recently +by the Government. The usual method of killing tigers is to make a +pitfall in a narrow path along which one has been found to travel, and +on either side of it a strong fence is erected. When the tiger has +fallen into the pit, he is shot to death or speared. The skin belongs to +the king, and the hunters are rewarded by him for each beast killed. The +skins are used to cover the seats of high dignitaries, to whom they are +given by the king, as are also the skins of leopards; and tigers' +whiskers go to ornament the hats of certain petty officials. + +Leopards are so numerous in Korea that I have known of two being killed +within a few weeks inside of the walls of Seoul. + +Tigers are also found in Manchuria, and, as before mentioned, in parts +of northern and southeastern China. I have seen the skin of a small one +hanging as an _ex voto_ offering in a lama temple near the Koko-Nor, and +was told that it had been killed not far from that spot. Colonel +Prjevalsky, however, says that the tiger is not found in northwestern +China; so the question remains an open one. + +Leopards, at all events, are common in northeastern and northwestern +China, in the hunting parks north of Peking, in the mountains of +northwest Kan-su and to the south of Koko-Nor. Bears are common from +northern Korea to the Pamirs. The Chinese distinguish two varieties, +which they call "dog bear" or "hog bear," and "man bear." The first is a +brown bear, and the latter, which is found on the high barren plateaus +to the north of Tibet, where it makes its food principally of the little +lagomys or marmots, which live there in great numbers, has for this +reason been called by Colonel Prjevalsky _Ursus lagomyarius_. I killed +one weighing over 600 pounds, whose claws were larger and thicker than +those of any grizzly I have seen. Its color is a rusty black, with a +patch of white on the breast. + +Besides these two varieties of bears, there is another animal, which, +though it is not properly a bear, resembles one so closely that it is +classed by the Chinese and Tibetans in that family. It is known to the +Chinese as _hua hsiung_, or "mottled bear," and Milne Edwards, who +studied and described it, has called it _Ailuropus melanoleucus_. This +animal was, I believe, discovered by that enterprising missionary and +naturalist, Father Armand David (who called it "white bear"), in the +little eastern Tibetan principality of Dringpa or Mupin, in western +Ssu-ch'uan.[13] Five specimens have so far been secured of this very +rare animal: three are in the Jardin des Plantes of Paris, the other two +in the Museum at the Jesuits' establishment, at Zikawei, near Shanghai. + + [13] See _Nouvelles Archives du Museum de Paris_, X., pp. 18 and 20. + +The stag or red deer ("horse deer" in Chinese) is found in Manchuria and +northern Korea, and the Tibetan variety, called _shawo_, must be very +abundant in portions of eastern Tibet, to judge from the innumerable +loads of horns which I have passed while traveling through eastern Tibet +on the way to China, in which latter country they are used in the +preparation of toilet powder. There is also a small deer in the +mountains of Alashan, in western Kan-su and Ssu-ch'uan, and in the +Ts'aidam; but I know nothing concerning it save its Mongol name, +_bura_, and its Chinese, _yang lu_, or "sheep deer." Prjevalsky, +however, gives some interesting details concerning it. Some Chinese +mention a third variety, called _mei lu_, or "beautiful deer," said to +live in the Koko-Nor country. + +[Illustration: AILUROPUS MELANOLEUCUS.] + +The musk deer is found in most parts of the Himalayas and Tibet, and as +far northeast as Lan-chou, on the Yellow River, in the Chinese province +of Kan-su. It is hunted wherever found, and nearly all the musk +ultimately finds its way to Europe or America, as it is not used to any +great extent by either Tibetans, Chinese or any of the other peoples in +whose countries it is procured; the Chinese only use a small quantity in +the preparation of some of their medicines. They distinguish two +varieties of musk deer: one, having tusks much larger than the other, is +called "yellow musk deer." + +Next in importance among the game of this region we find the _Antilope +gutturosa_ and the _Ovis burhil_, or "mountain goat," which range from +eastern Mongolia to western Tibet. But more important than these from a +sportsman's point of view is the _argali_, of which Col. Prjevalsky +distinguishes two varieties: the _Ovis argali_, ranging along the +northern bend of the Yellow River, between Kuei-hua Ch'eng and Alashan; +and the white-breasted _argali_, or _Ovis poli_, ranging from the +Ts'aidam and western Ssu-ch'uan to the Pamirs. + +The name _argali_ is, I think, an unfortunate one to give to this +species, as it is a Mongol word solely used to designate the female +animal, the male of which is called _kuldza_. + +The _Antilope hodgsoni_, called _orongo_ in Mongol, has about the same +range as the _Ovis poli_. It is by far the most beautiful antelope of +this region--the long, graceful, lyre-shaped horns, which it carries +very erect when running, being frequently over two feet in length. + +Although, to my mind, what are commonly regarded as cattle should no +more be considered game when wild than when tame, still, as I am perhaps +alone of this opinion, I must note, among the game animals of this part +of Asia, yaks and asses, which are found in western Mongolia, Turkestan +and in many parts of Tibet, especially the wild northern country, or +Chang-t'ang. + +The wild yak is invariably black, with short, rather slender horns +(smaller than our buffalo's), bending gracefully forward. The head is +large, but well proportioned, and the eyes quite large, but with a very +wild look in them. The legs are short and very heavy, the hoofs straight +and invariably black. The hair, which hangs down over the body and legs, +the face alone excepted, is wavy, and on the sides, belly and legs is so +long that it reaches within a few inches of the ground. The tail is very +bushy and reaches to the hocks, all the hair being of such uniform +length that it looks as if it were trimmed. When running, the yak +carries its tail high up or even over its back, and when frightened or +angered holds it straight out behind. + +The calves have a grunt resembling that of the hog, hence the name _Bos +grunniens_, but in the grown animal it is rarely heard; it is at best +only a dull, low sound, unworthy of such a big, savage-looking beast. +The bones of the yak are so heavy that it is nearly impossible to kill +one except by shooting it through the heart or wounding it in some +equally vital spot. Although I have shot a great many of these animals +in northern Tibet, I have never bagged any except when shot as above +mentioned, nor have I ever broken the limb of one. It is true that I +have done all my shooting with a .44 caliber Winchester carbine, which +was entirely too light for the purpose. + +The yak is not a dangerous animal except in the case of a solitary bull, +which will sometimes charge a few yards at a time, till he falls dead at +the hunter's feet, riddled with bullets. When in large bands yaks run at +the first shot, rushing down ravines, through snow banks and across +rivers, without a moment's hesitation, in a wild stampede. + +Mongol and Tibetan hunters say that one must never shoot at a solitary +yak whose horns have a backward curve, as he will certainly prove +dangerous when wounded; but the same beast may be shot at with impunity +if in a band. In fact, the natives never shoot at yaks except when in a +good-sized bunch. Natives usually hunt them by twos and threes, and, +after stalking to within a hundred yards or even less, they all blaze +away at the same time. + +The number of yaks on the plateaus north of Tibet is very considerable, +but there are no such herds as were seen of buffaloes on our plains +until within a few years. I have never seen over 300 in a herd, but Col. +Prjevalsky says that when he first visited the country around the +sources of the Yellow River, in 1870, he saw herds there of a thousand +head and more. Yaks are enormous feeders, and, in a country as thinly +covered with grass as that in which they roam, they must travel great +distances to secure enough food. As it is, it is the rarest thing in the +world to find even in July or August fine grazing in any part of this +country; the yaks keep the grass as closely cut as would a machine. + +In some of the wildest districts of western China a wild ox (_budorcas_) +is still found. Father Armand David thus describes it (_Nouvelles +Archives du Museum de Paris_, X., 17): "It is a kind of _ovibos_, with +very short tail, black and sharp horns, with broad bases touching on the +forehead; its ears are small, and, as it were, cropped obliquely. The +iris is of a dirty yellow gold color, the pupil oblong and horizontal. +The fur is quite long and of a dirty white color, with a dash of brown +on the hind quarters." + +The wild ass is no longer found, I believe, to the east of the Koko-Nor, +but from that meridian as far west as Persia is met with in large +numbers, and in the wilds to the north of Tibet in vast herds, quite as +large and numerous as those of yaks. + +The wild ass (called _kulan_ or _hulan_ in Mongol) stands about twelve +hands high, and is invariably of a tan color, with a dark line running +down the back, and white on the belly, neck and feet. The tail is rather +short, and thinly covered with hair; the head is broad, heavy, and too +large for the body of the animal. It carries its head very high when in +motion, and when trotting its tail is nearly erect. Its usual gait is a +trot or a run. A herd always moves in single file, a stallion leading. +As a rule, a stallion has a small band of ten or twelve mares, which he +herds and guards with jealous care day and night. Frequently these bands +run together and form herds of 500 or even of 1,000. + +One often meets solitary jackasses wandering about; they have been +deprived of their band of mares in a fight with some stronger male. +These have frequently proved most troublesome to me; they would round up +and drive off my ponies--all of which were mares--to add to the little +nucleus of a band they had hidden away in some lonely nook in the hills. +I have frequently had to lose days at a time hunting for my horses, and +I finally made it a point to shoot all such animals that came near my +camp; though I had a strong dislike to killing them--they looked so like +tame asses--and I never could see any sport in it, though the meat was +good enough--much better than yak flesh. + +The _hulan_ is very fleet and has wonderfully acute hearing, but it +possesses too great curiosity for its own safety; it will generally +circle around the hunter if not shot at, and come quite near to have a +look at the strange, unknown animal. + +It is said that wild camels and horses are found in some of the remoter +corners of southwestern Turkestan and south of Lob-Nor, and specimens of +them have been secured by Prjevalsky, Grijimailo and Littledale. The +question is now whether these animals are domesticated ones run wild, or +really wild varieties. Naturalists will probably disagree on this point. +For the time being these animals are too little known for me to express +an opinion on the subject, and, not having seen any, I can add nothing +to what has been written on the subject. + +My own shooting in Mongolia and Tibet has always been under +difficulties. Traveling without European companions, and my Asiatic one +not knowing how to handle our firearms, I have been able to give but +little time to sport. When pressed for food, however, I have killed +yaks, asses, _argali_, mountain sheep and antelope; I have also bagged a +few bears and leopards; but, as my only rifle was rather for purposes of +defense than for shooting game, I never went much out of my way to look +up these animals, though I felt great confidence in my good little +Winchester, having killed the largest yak I ever shot at, and a fine +bear, each with one shot from it. + +The game I mostly shot while in Tibet was yak; but, as I never killed +any save for meat--not believing in the theory of destroying animal life +for the sake of trophies to hang upon the wall--I made no phenomenal +bags, though big game was so plentiful in many sections of the country +that even with a native match-lock it would have been possible to have +killed many more animals than I did. + +The yak I approached at first with considerable trepidation, as I had +read in various books of their savageness and of the danger that the +hunter was exposed to from one of these big animals when wounded; but +now I am wiser, and I can reassure those who would kill these big +beasts; they look more dangerous than they really are, and will hardly +ever push their charge home, even when badly wounded. The first time I +saw them we were traveling up a rather open valley beside a frozen +rivulet, where, upon reaching the top of a little swell, some six or +eight hundred yards off, were a couple of hundred yaks coming down +toward the stream to try and find a water hole. I made signs to the men +behind me to stop, and, jumping from my horse, I crawled along to within +about 200 yards of them, when I blazed away at the biggest I could pick +out, standing a little nearer to me than the rest of the herd. They paid +hardly any attention to the slight report of my rifle; only the one at +which I shot advanced a short distance in the direction of the smoke and +then stopped, waving his great bushy tail over his back and holding his +head erect. I fired again, when he and the rest of the herd turned and +ran on to the ice, where I opened fire on them once more. They seemed +puzzled by the noise, but my bullets did not seem to harm them. Finally +one charged and then another, and at last the whole herd came dashing +up in my direction; but "I lay very low," especially as at this +seemingly critical moment I found that I had no more cartridges in my +gun. After awhile they turned and trotted back to the river, and I made +for my horse, much disappointed at my apparent failure to do any of them +any injury. + +[Illustration: ELAPHURUS DAVIDIANUS.] + +In the meantime my men had pushed on about half a mile, and we stopped +in a little nook to take a cup of tea. Having here supplied myself with +cartridges, I thought I would try to get another shot at the yaks, some +of which I could still see on the mountain side beyond the stream. My +delight was great when, coming up to the place where I had last seen +them, a big bull was lying dead, shot through the heart. + +The only time I ever encountered a solitary bull he bluffed us so +completely that I do not know but my reputation as a sportsman will +suffer materially by mentioning the incident. One day, as we were +rounding the corner of a hill, we saw an immense fellow, not 200 yards +off; and my two big mastiffs, which by this time were getting hardly any +food--as our stock of provisions was running very short, and who passed +most of their time while we were on the march vainly chasing hares, +marmots and any other animals they could see--made a dash for the yak +and commenced snapping at him. He trotted slowly off, but soon, becoming +angry, turned on the dogs, who came back to the caravan. He followed +them until within twenty yards of us. All my recollections of the +dangers encountered by Prjevalsky with yaks, all his remarks of the +extraordinary thickness and impenetrability of their skulls, of the +difficulty of killing these monstrous animals, and of their +ferociousness when wounded, came vividly to my mind in an instant. I saw +my mules and horses gored and bleeding on the ground, my expedition +brought to an untimely end, and a wounded yak waving his tail +triumphantly over us, for I was certain that with my light Winchester I +could never drop him dead in his tracks. We did not even dare so much as +look at him, but kept on our way, and the yak walked beside us, +evidently rejoicing in his victory. The dogs, now thoroughly cowed, took +refuge on the side of the caravan furthest from the infuriated animal, +and so we marched on for about half a mile, when, in utter disgust, he +turned and trotted off to the hillside where he stood watching us, his +bushy tail stretched out as stiff as iron behind him, pawing the ground, +and thus we left him. + +Shooting wild asses was much tamer business. We saw them sometimes in +herds of five or six hundred. They would mix with our mules even when +grazing around the camp, and often took them off five or six miles, when +we had great difficulty in getting them back. We frequently, however, +killed one for meat, which we found to be very savory; though most of my +men, who were Mahomedans, would only eat it when very hard pushed by +hunger, as their religion forbade them to eat the flesh of any animal +without cloven hoofs. I always felt, however, in shooting these animals, +as if I were destroying a domestic mule, and could never bring myself to +look upon them as fit game for a sportsman. This was strongly impressed +upon me one day when, desiring to get a fine specimen, whose skin and +bones I could bring back for the National Museum, I shot a very large +jack which was grazing some distance from our line of march, and broke +its hind legs, and was then obliged to go up to the poor beast and put a +ball into its head. After accomplishing this disagreeable duty in the +interest of science--though to no purpose, as it turned out, for I was +obliged to throw away the skin and bones a few days after, because I had +no means of transporting them--I made a solemn promise to myself that I +would never shoot a _kyang_ again; and, I am pleased to say, I broke my +promise but twice, and then I did so only to give us food, of which we +stood in great need. + +Shooting antelope in Tibet is not more exciting--or interesting, for +that matter--than shooting them elsewhere, and I do not know that +anything special can be said about this sport beyond the fact that the +number of Hodgson antelope which we met in parts of northern Tibet was +sometimes extraordinarily great. These animals suffer greatly, however, +from some plague, which frequently sweeps off enormous numbers of them. +I have passed over places where the bones of a hundred or more of them +might be seen, one near the other; and districts which I had visited in +1889, and where I had found great numbers of them, were absolutely +without a sign of one when I was there again in 1892. + +Of bear-hunting I can say but little. On different occasions, in various +parts of northern Tibet, I killed six or eight pretty good sized brown +bears; but a man would have to be blind not to be able to hit one at +twenty-five or thirty yards, and it is always possible to get as near +them as that, even in the open country which they frequent. They have +apparently no dens, but live in the holes in the ground which they dig +to get the little marmots on which they feed. These bears are, however, +very fleet, as I once or twice found out when trying to ride them down +on horseback, and when they nearly proved a match for the best ponies I +had. The natives stand in great dread of them, and will never attack +them except when there are three or four men together, when they +approach them from different directions and open fire all at the same +time. They say these bears are man-eaters, and even when the men with me +saw them lying dead they showed great repugnance to touch the body, or +even to come near them; though they might have made eight or ten dollars +by splitting them open and removing the gall--a highly-prized medicine +among the Chinese, who also find a place for bears' paws in their +pharmacopoeia. + +On the whole, though Korea, Mongolia and Tibet have plenty of big game, +they are not countries for a sportsman, and unless he has some other +hobby to take him there, he had better seek his fun elsewhere in more +accessible quarters of the globe. + +_W. W. Rockhill._ + + + + +Hunting in the Cattle Country + + +The little hunting I did in 1893 and 1894 was while I was at my ranch +house, or while out on the range among the cattle; and I shot merely the +game needed for the table by myself and those who were with me. It is +still possible in the cattle country to kill an occasional bighorn, bear +or elk; but nowadays the only big game upon which the ranchman of the +great plains can safely count are deer and antelope. While at the ranch +house itself, I rely for venison upon shooting either blacktail in the +broken country away from the river, or else whitetail in the river +bottoms. When out on the great plains, where the cattle range freely in +the summer, or when visiting the line camps, or any ranch on the heads +of the longer creeks, the prongbuck furnishes our fresh meat. + +In both 1893 and 1894 I made trips to a vast tract of rolling prairie +land, some fifty miles from my ranch, where I have for many years +enjoyed the keen pleasure of hunting the prongbuck. In 1893 the +pronghorned bands were as plentiful in this district as I have ever seen +them anywhere. A friend, a fellow Boone and Crockett man, Alexander +Lambert, was with me; and in a week's trip, including the journey out +and back, we easily shot all the antelope we felt we had any right to +kill; for we only shot to get meat, or an unusually fine head. + +In antelope shooting more cartridges are expended in proportion to the +amount of game killed than with any other game, because the shots are +generally taken at long range; and yet, being taken in the open, there +is usually a chance to use four or five cartridges before the animal +gets out of sight. These shots do not generally kill, but every now and +then they do; and so the hunter is encouraged to try them, especially as +after the first shot the game has been scared anyway, and no harm +results from firing the others. + +In 1893, Lambert, who was on his first hunt with the rifle, did most of +the shooting, and I myself fired at only two antelope, both of which had +already been missed. In each case a hard run and much firing at long +ranges, together with in one case some skillful maneuvering, got me my +game; yet one buck cost nine cartridges and the other eight. In 1894 I +had exactly the reverse experience. I killed five antelope for +thirty-six shots, but each one that I killed was killed with the first +bullet, and in not one case where I missed the first time did I hit with +any subsequent one. These five antelope were shot at an average distance +of about 150 yards. Those that I missed were, of course, much further +off on an average, and I usually emptied my magazine at each. The number +of cartridges spent would seem extraordinary to a tyro; and a very +unusually skillful shot, or else a very timid shot who fears to take +risks, will of course make a better showing per head killed; but I doubt +if men with much experience in antelope hunting, who keep an accurate +account of the cartridges they expend, will see anything out of the way +in the performance. During the thirteen years I have hunted in the West +I have always, where possible, kept a record of the number of cartridges +expended for every head of game killed, and of the distances at which it +was shot. I have found that with bison, bears, moose, elk, caribou, +big-horn and white goats, where the animals shot at were mostly of +large size and usually stationary, and where the mountainous or wooded +country gave chance for a close approach, the average distance at which +I have killed the game has been eighty yards, and the average number of +cartridges expended per head slain three: one of these representing the +death shot and the others standing either for misses outright, of which +there were not very many, or else for wounding game which escaped, or +which I afterward overtook, or for stopping cripples or charging beasts. +I have killed but one cougar and two peccaries, using but one cartridge +for each; all three were close up. At wolves and coyotes I have +generally had to take running shots at very long range, and I have +killed but two for fifty cartridges. Blacktail deer I have generally +shot at about ninety yards, at an expenditure of about four cartridges +apiece. Whitetail I have killed at shorter range; but the shots were +generally running, often taken under difficult circumstances, so that my +expenditure of cartridges was rather larger. Antelope, on the other +hand, I have on the average shot at a little short of 150 yards, and +they have cost me about nine cartridges apiece. This, of course, as I +have explained above, does not mean that I have missed eight out of nine +antelope, for often the entire nine cartridges would be spent at an +antelope which I eventually got. It merely means that, counting all the +shots of every description fired at antelope, I had one head to show for +each nine cartridges expended. Thus, the first antelope I shot in 1893 +cost me ten cartridges, of which three hit him, while the seven that +missed were fired at over 400 yards' distance while he was running. We +saw him while we were with the wagon. As we had many miles to go before +sunset, we cared nothing about frightening other game, and, as we had no +fresh meat, it was worth while to take some chances to procure it. When +I first fired, the prongbuck had already been shot at and was in full +flight. He was beyond all reasonable range, but some of our bullets went +over him and he began to turn. By running to one side I got a shot at +him at a little over 400 paces, as he slowed to a walk, bewildered by +the firing, and the bullet broke his hip. I missed him two or three +times as he plunged off, and then by hard running down a water course +got a shot at 180 paces and broke his shoulder, and broke his neck with +another bullet when I came up. This one was shot while going out to the +hunting ground. While there, Lambert killed four or five; most of the +meat we gave away. I did not fire again until on our return, when I +killed another buck one day while we were riding with the wagon. + +The day was gray and overcast. There were slight flurries of snow, and +the cold wind chilled us as it blew across the endless reaches of +sad-colored prairie. Behind us loomed Sentinel Butte, and all around the +rolling surface was broken by chains of hills, by patches of bad lands, +or by isolated, saddle-shaped mounds. The ranch wagon jolted over the +uneven sward, and plunged in and out of the dry beds of the occasional +water courses; for we were following no road, but merely striking +northward across the prairie toward the P. K. ranch. We went at a good +pace, for the afternoon was bleak, the wagon was lightly loaded, and the +Sheriff, who was serving for the nonce as our teamster and cook, kept +the two gaunt, wild-looking horses trotting steadily. Lambert and I rode +to one side on our unkempt cow ponies, our rifles slung across the +saddle bows. + +Our stock of fresh meat was getting low and we were anxious to shoot +something; but in the early hours of the afternoon we saw no game. Small +parties of horned larks ran along the ground ahead of the wagon, +twittering plaintively as they rose, and occasional flocks of longspurs +flew hither and thither; but of larger life we saw nothing, save +occasional bands of range horses. The drought had been very severe and +we were far from the river, so that we saw no horned stock. Horses can +travel much further to water than cattle, and, when the springs dry up, +they stay much further out on the prairie. + +At last we did see a band of four antelope, lying in the middle of a +wide plain, but they saw us before we saw them, and the ground was so +barren of cover that it was impossible to get near them. Moreover, they +were very shy and ran almost as soon as we got our eyes on them. For an +hour or two after this we jogged along without seeing anything, while +the gray clouds piled up in the west and the afternoon began to darken; +then, just after passing Saddle Butte, we struck a rough prairie road, +which we knew led to the P. K. ranch--a road very faint in places, while +in others the wheels had sunk deep in the ground and made long, +parallel ruts. + +Almost immediately after striking this road, on topping a small rise, we +discovered a young prongbuck standing off a couple of hundred yards to +one side, gazing at the wagon with that absorbed curiosity which in this +game so often conquers its extreme wariness and timidity, to a certain +extent offsetting the advantage conferred upon it by its marvelous +vision. The little antelope stood broadside, too, gazing at us out of +its great bulging eyes, the sharply contrasted browns and whites of its +coat showing plainly. Lambert and I leaped off our horses immediately, +and I knelt and pulled the trigger; but the cartridge snapped, and the +little buck, wheeling around, cantered off, the white hairs on its rump +all erect, as is always the case with the pronghorn when under the +influence of fear or excitement. My companion took a hasty, running +shot, with no more effect than changing the canter into a breakneck +gallop; and, though we opened on it as it ran, it went unharmed over the +crest of rising ground in front. We ran after it as hard as we could +pelt up the hill, into a slight valley, and then up another rise, and +again got a glimpse of it standing, but this time further off than +before; and again our shots went wild. + +However, the antelope changed its racing gallop to a canter while still +in sight, going slower and slower, and, what was rather curious, it did +not seem much frightened. We were naturally a good deal chagrined at our +shooting and wished to retrieve ourselves, if possible; so we ran back +to the wagon, got our horses and rode after the buck. He had continued +his flight in a straight line, gradually slackening his pace, and a +mile's brisk gallop enabled us to catch a glimpse of him, far ahead and +merely walking. The wind was bad, and we decided to sweep off and try to +circle round ahead of him. Accordingly, we dropped back, turned into a +slight hollow to the right, and galloped hard until we came to the foot +of a series of low buttes, when we turned more to the left; and, when we +judged that we were about across the antelope's line of march, leaped +from our horses, threw the reins over their heads, and left them +standing, while we stole up the nearest rise; and, when close to the +top, took off our caps and pushed ourselves forward, flat on our faces, +to peep over. We had judged the distance well, for we saw the antelope +at once, now stopping to graze. Drawing back, we ran along some little +distance nearer, then drew up over the same rise. He was only about 125 +yards off, and this time there was no excuse for my failing to get him; +but fail I did, and away the buck raced again, with both of us shooting. +My first two shots were misses, but I kept correcting my aim and holding +further in front of the flying beast. My last shot was taken just as the +antelope reached the edge of the broken country, in which he would have +been safe; and almost as I pulled the trigger I had the satisfaction of +seeing him pitch forward and, after turning a complete somersault, lie +motionless. I had broken his neck. He had cost us a good many +cartridges, and, though my last shot was well aimed, there was doubtless +considerable chance in my hitting him, while there was no excuse at all +for at least one of my previous misses. Nevertheless, all old hunters +know that there is no other kind of shooting in which so many cartridges +are expended for every head of game bagged. + +As we knelt down to butcher the antelope, the clouds broke and the rain +fell. Hastily we took off the saddle and hams, and, packing them behind +us on our horses, loped to the wagon in the teeth of the cold storm. +When we overtook it, after some sharp riding, we threw in the meat, and +not very much later, when the day was growing dusky, caught sight of the +group of low ranch buildings toward which we had been headed. We were +received with warm hospitality, as one always is in a ranch country. We +dried our steaming clothes inside the warm ranch house and had a good +supper, and that night we rolled up in our blankets and tarpaulins, and +slept soundly in the lee of a big haystack. The ranch house stood in the +winding bottom of a creek; the flanking hills were covered with stunted +cedar, while dwarf cottonwood and box elder grew by the pools in the +half-dried creek bed. + +Next morning we had risen by dawn. The storm was over, and it was clear +and cold. Before sunrise we had started. We were only some thirty miles +from my ranch, and I directed the Sheriff how to go there, by striking +east until he came to the main divide, and then following that down till +he got past a certain big plateau, when a turn to the right down any of +the coulees would bring him into the river bottom near the ranch house. +We wished ourselves to ride off to one side and try to pick up another +antelope. However, the Sheriff took the wrong turn after getting to the +divide, and struck the river bottom some fifteen miles out of his way, +so that we reached the ranch a good many hours before he did. + +When we left the wagon we galloped straight across country, looking out +from the divide across the great rolling landscape, every feature +standing clear through the frosty air. Hour after hour we galloped on +and on over the grassy seas in the glorious morning. Once we stopped, +and I held the horses while Lambert stalked and shot a fine prongbuck; +then we tied his head and hams to our saddles and again pressed forward +along the divide. We had hoped to get lunch at a spring that I knew of +some twelve miles from my ranch, but when we reached it we found it dry +and went on without halting. Early in the afternoon we came out on the +broad, tree-clad bottom on which the ranch house stands, and, threading +our way along the cattle trails, soon drew up in front of the gray, +empty buildings. + +Just as we were leaving the hunting grounds on this trip, after having +killed all the game we felt we had a right to kill, we encountered +bands of Sioux Indians from the Standing Rock and Cheyenne River +reservations coming in to hunt, and I at once felt that the chances for +much future sport in that particular district were small. Indians are +not good shots, but they hunt in great numbers, killing everything, +does, fawns and bucks alike, and they follow the wounded animals with +the utmost perseverance, so that they cause great destruction to game. + +Accordingly, in 1894, when I started for these same grounds, it was with +some misgivings; but I had time only to make a few days' hunt, and I +knew of no other accessible grounds where prongbuck were plentiful. My +foreman was with me, and we took the ranch wagon also, driven by a +cowboy who had just come up over the trail with cattle from Colorado. On +reaching our happy hunting grounds of the previous season, I found my +fears sadly verified; and one unforeseen circumstance also told against +me. Not only had the Indians made a great killing of antelope the season +before, but in the spring one or two sheep men had moved into the +country. We found that the big flocks had been moving from one spring +pool to another, eating the pasturage bare, while the shepherds whom we +met--wild-looking men on rough horses, each accompanied by a pair of +furtive sheep dogs--had taken every opportunity to get a shot at +antelope, so as to provide themselves with fresh meat. Two days of +fruitless hunting in this sheep-ridden region was sufficient to show +that the antelope were too scarce and shy to give us hope for sport, and +we shifted quarters, a long day's journey, to the head of another creek; +and we had to go to yet another before we found much game. As so often +happens on such a trip, when we started to have bad luck we had plenty. +One night two of the three saddle horses stampeded and went back +straight as the crow flies to their home range, so that we did not get +them until on our return from the trip. On another occasion the team +succeeded in breaking the wagon pole; and, as there was an entire +absence of wood where we were at the time, we had to make a splice for +it with the two tent poles and the picket ropes. Nevertheless it was +very enjoyable out on the great grassy plains. Although we had a tent +with us, I always slept in the open in my buffalo bag, with the +tarpaulin to pull over me if it rained. On each night before going to +sleep, I lay for many minutes gazing at the extraordinary multitude of +stars above, or watching the rising of the red moon, which was just at +or past the full. + +We had plenty of fresh meat--prairie fowl and young sage fowl for the +first twenty-four hours, and antelope venison afterward. We camped by +little pools, generally getting fair water; and from the camps where +there was plenty of wood we took enough to build the fires at those +where there was none. The nights were frosty, and the days cool and +pleasant, and from sunrise to sunset we were off riding or walking among +the low hills and over the uplands, so that we slept well and ate well, +and felt the beat of hardy life in our veins. + +Much of the time we were on a high divide between two creek systems, +from which we could see the great landmarks of all the regions +roundabout--Sentinel Butte, Square Butte and Middle Butte, far to the +north and east of us. Nothing could be more lonely and nothing more +beautiful than the view at nightfall across the prairies to these huge +hill masses, when the lengthening shadows had at last merged into one +and the faint glow of the red sun filled the west. The rolling prairie, +sweeping in endless waves to the feet of the great hills, grew purple as +the evening darkened, and the buttes loomed into vague, mysterious +beauty as their sharp outlines softened in the twilight. + +Even when we got out of reach of the sheep men we never found antelope +very plentiful, and they were shy, and the country was flat, so that the +stalking was extremely difficult; yet I had pretty good sport. The first +animal I killed was a doe, shot for meat, because I had twice failed to +get bucks at which I emptied my magazine at long range, and we were all +feeling hungry for venison. After that I killed nothing but bucks. Of +the five antelope killed, one I got by a headlong gallop to cut off his +line of flight. As sometimes happens with this queer, erratic animal, +when the buck saw that I was trying to cut off his flight he simply +raced ahead just as hard as he knew how, and, as my pony was not fast, +he got to the little pass for which he was headed 200 yards ahead of me. +I then jumped off, and his curiosity made him commit the fatal mistake +of halting for a moment to look round at me. He was standing end on, and +offered a very small mark at 200 yards; but I made a good line shot, +and, though I held a trifle too high, I hit him in the head, and down he +came. Another buck I shot from under the wagon early one morning as he +was passing just beyond the picketed horses. The other three I got after +much maneuvering and long, tedious stalks. + +In some of the stalks, after infinite labor, and perhaps after crawling +on all fours for an hour, or pulling myself flat on my face among some +small sagebrush for ten or fifteen minutes, the game took alarm and went +off. Too often, also, when I finally did get a shot, it was under such +circumstances that I missed. Sometimes the game was too far; sometimes +it had taken alarm and was already in motion. Once in the afternoon I +had to spend so much time waiting for the antelope to get into a +favorable place that, when I got up close, I found the light already so +bad that my front sight glimmered indistinctly, and the bullet went +wild. Another time I met with one of those misadventures which are +especially irritating. It was at midday, and I made out at a long +distance a band of antelope lying for their noon rest in a slight +hollow. A careful stalk brought me up within fifty yards of them. I was +crawling flat on my face, for the crest of the hillock sloped so gently +that this was the only way to get near them. At last, peering through +the grass, I saw the head of a doe. In a moment she saw me and jumped to +her feet, and up stood the whole band, including the buck. I immediately +tried to draw a bead on the latter, and to my horror found that, lying +flat as I was, and leaning on my elbows. I could not bring the rifle +above the tall, shaking grass, and was utterly unable to get a sight. In +another second away tore all the antelope. I jumped to my feet, took a +snap shot at the buck as he raced round a low-cut bank and missed, and +then walked drearily home, chewing the cud of my ill luck. Yet again in +more than one instance, after making a good stalk upon a band seen at +some distance, I found it contained only does and fawns, and would not +shoot at them. + +Three times, however, the stalk was successful. Twice I was out alone; +the other time my foreman was with me, and kept my horse while I +maneuvered hither and thither, and finally succeeded in getting into +range. In both the first instances I got a standing shot, but on this +last occasion, when my foreman was with me, two of the watchful does +which were in the band saw me before I could get a shot at the old buck. +I was creeping up a low washout, and, by ducking hastily down again and +running back and up a side coulee, I managed to get within long range of +the band as they cantered off, not yet thoroughly alarmed. The buck was +behind, and I held just ahead of him. He plunged to the shot, but went +off over the hill crest. When I had panted up to the ridge, I found him +dead just beyond. + +One of the antelope I killed while I was out on foot at nightfall, a +couple of miles from the wagon; I left the shoulders and neck, carrying +in the rest of the carcass on my back. On the other occasion I had my +horse with me and took in the whole antelope, packing it behind the +saddle, after it was dressed and the legs cut off below the knees. In +packing an antelope or deer behind the saddle, I always cut slashes +through the sinews of the legs just above the joints; then I put the +buck behind the saddle, run the picket rope from the horn of the saddle, +under the belly of the horse, through the slashes in the legs on the +other side, bring the end back, swaying well down on it, and fasten it +to the horn; then I repeat the same feat for the other side. Packed in +this way, the carcass always rides perfectly steady, and can not, by any +possibility, shake loose. Of course, a horse has to have some little +training before it will submit to being packed. + +The above experiences are just about those which befall the average +ranchman when he is hunting antelope. To illustrate how much less apt he +is to spend as many shots while after other game, I may mention the last +mountain sheep and last deer I killed, each of which cost me but a +single cartridge. + +The bighorn was killed in the fall of 1894, while I was camped on the +Little Missouri, some ten miles below my ranch. The bottoms were broad +and grassy, and were walled in by rows of high, steep bluffs, with back +of them a mass of broken country, in many places almost impassable for +horses. The wagon was drawn up on the edge of the fringe of tall +cottonwoods which stretched along the brink of the shrunken river. The +weather had grown cold, and at night the frost gathered thickly on our +sleeping bags. Great flocks of sandhill cranes passed overhead from time +to time, the air resounding with their strange, musical, guttural +clangor. + +For several days we had hunted perseveringly, but without success, +through the broken country. We had come across tracks of mountain sheep, +but not the animals themselves, and the few blacktail which we had seen +had seen us first and escaped before we could get within shot. The only +thing killed had been a whitetail fawn, which Lambert had knocked over +by a very pretty shot as we were riding through a long, heavily-timbered +bottom. Four men in stalwart health and taking much outdoor exercise +have large appetites, and the flesh of the whitetail was almost gone. + +One evening Lambert and I hunted nearly to the head of one of the creeks +which opened close to our camp, and, in turning to descend what we +thought was one of the side coulees leading into it, we contrived to get +over the divide into the coulees of an entirely different creek system, +and did not discover our error until it was too late to remedy it. We +struck the river about nightfall, and were not quite sure where, and had +six miles' tramp in the dark along the sandy river bed and through the +dense timber bottoms, wading the streams a dozen times before we finally +struck camp, tired and hungry, and able to appreciate to the full the +stew of hot venison and potatoes, and afterward the comfort of our +buffalo and caribou hide sleeping bags. The next morning the Sheriff's +remark of "Look alive, you fellows, if you want any breakfast," awoke +the other members of the party shortly after dawn. It was bitterly cold +as we scrambled out of our bedding, and, after a hasty wash, huddled +around the fire, where the venison was sizzling and the coffee-pot +boiling, while the bread was kept warm in the Dutch oven. About a third +of a mile away to the west the bluffs, which rose abruptly from the +river bottom, were crowned by a high plateau, where the grass was so +good that over night the horses had been led up and picketed on it, and +the man who had led them up had stated the previous evening that he had +seen what he took to be fresh footprints of a mountain sheep crossing +the surface of a bluff fronting our camp. The footprints apparently +showed that the animal had been there since the camp had been pitched. +The face of the cliff on this side was very sheer, the path by which the +horses scrambled to the top being around a shoulder and out of sight of +camp. + +While sitting close up around the fire finishing breakfast, and just as +the first level sunbeams struck the top of the plateau, we saw on this +cliff crest something moving, and at first supposed it to be one of the +horses which had broken loose from its picket pin. Soon the thing, +whatever it was, raised its head, and we were all on our feet in a +moment, exclaiming that it was a deer or a sheep. It was feeding in +plain sight of us only about a third of a mile distant, and the horses, +as I afterward found, were but a few rods beyond it on the plateau. The +instant I realized that it was game of some kind I seized my rifle, +buckled on my cartridge belt, and slunk off toward the river bed. As +soon as I was under the protection of the line of cottonwoods, I trotted +briskly toward the cliff, and when I got to where it impinged on the +river I ran a little to the left, and, selecting what I deemed to be a +favorable place, began to make the ascent. The animal was on the grassy +bench, some eight or ten feet below the crest, when I last saw it; but +it was evidently moving hither and thither, sometimes on this bench and +sometimes on the crest itself, cropping the short grass and browsing on +the young shrubs. The cliff was divided by several shoulders or ridges, +there being hollows like vertical gullies between them, and up one of +these I scrambled, using the utmost caution not to dislodge earth or +stones. Finally I reached the bench just below the sky line, and then, +turning to the left, wriggled cautiously along it, hat in hand. The +cliff was so steep and bulged so in the middle, and, moreover, the +shoulders or projecting ridges in the surface spoken of above were so +pronounced, that I knew it was out of the question for the animal to +have seen me, but I was afraid it might have heard me. The air was +absolutely still, and so I had no fear of its sharp nose. Twice in +succession I peered with the utmost caution over shoulders of the cliff, +merely to see nothing beyond save another shoulder some forty or fifty +yards distant. Then I crept up to the edge and looked over the level +plateau. Nothing was in sight excepting the horses, and these were close +up to me, and, of course, they all raised their heads to look. I +nervously turned half round, sure that if the animal, whatever it was, +was in sight, it would promptly take the alarm. However, by good luck, +it appeared that at this time it was below the crest on the terrace or +bench already mentioned, and, on creeping to the next shoulder, I at +last saw it--a yearling mountain sheep--walking slowly away from me, and +evidently utterly unsuspicious of any danger. I straightened up, +bringing my rifle to my shoulder, and as it wheeled I fired, and the +sheep made two or three blind jumps in my direction. So close was I to +the camp, and so still was the cold morning, that I distinctly heard one +of the three men, who had remained clustered about the fire eagerly +watching my movements, call, "By George, he's missed; I saw the bullet +strike the cliff." I had fired behind the shoulders, and the bullet, of +course going through, had buried itself in the bluff beyond. The wound +was almost instantaneously fatal, and the sheep, after striving in vain +to keep its balance, fell heels over head down a crevice, where it +jammed. I descended, released the carcass and pitched it on ahead of me, +only to have it jam again near the foot of the cliff. Before I got it +loose I was joined by my three companions, who had been running headlong +toward me through the brush ever since the time they had seen the animal +fall. + +I never obtained another sheep under circumstances which seemed to me +quite so remarkable as these; for sheep are, on the whole, the wariest +of game. Nevertheless, with all game there is an immense amount of +chance in the chase, and it is perhaps not wholly uncharacteristic of a +hunter's luck that, after having hunted faithfully in vain and with much +hard labor for several days through a good sheep country, we should at +last have obtained one within sight and earshot of camp. Incidentally I +may mention that I have never tasted better mutton, or meat of any kind, +than that furnished by this tender yearling. + +In 1894, on the last day I spent at the ranch, and with the last bullet +I fired from my rifle, I killed a fine whitetail buck. I left the ranch +house early in the afternoon on my favorite pony, Muley, my foreman +riding with me. After going a couple of miles, by sheer good luck we +stumbled on three whitetail--a buck, a doe and a fawn--in a long winding +coulee, with a belt of timber running down its bottom. When we saw the +deer, they were trying to sneak off, and immediately my foreman galloped +toward one end of the coulee and started to ride down through it, while +I ran Muley to the other end to intercept the deer. They were, of +course, quite likely to break off to one side, but this happened to be +one of the occasions when everything went right. When I reached the spot +from which I covered the exits from the timber, I leaped off, and +immediately afterward heard a shout from my foreman that told me the +deer were on foot. Muley is a pet horse, and he enjoys immensely the +gallop after game; but his nerves invariably fail him at the shot. He +stood snorting beside me, and finally, as the deer came in sight, away +he tore--only to go about 200 yards, however, and stand and watch us +with his ears pricked forward until, when I needed him, I went for him. +At the moment, however, I paid no heed to Muley, for a cracking in the +brush told me the game was close, and in another moment I caught the +shadowy outlines of the doe and the fawn as they scudded through the +timber. By good luck, the buck, evidently flurried, came right on the +edge of the woods next to me, and, as he passed, running like a quarter +horse, I held well ahead of him and pulled the trigger. The bullet broke +his neck and down he went--a fine fellow with a handsome ten-point head, +and fat as a prize sheep; for it was just before the rut. Then we rode +home, and I sat in a rocking-chair on the ranch house veranda, looking +across the river at the strangely shaped buttes and the groves of +shimmering cottonwoods until the sun went down and the frosty air bade +me go in. + + * * * * * + +I wish that members of the Boone and Crockett Club, and big game hunters +generally, would make a point of putting down all their experiences with +game, and with any other markworthy beasts or birds, in the regions +where they hunt, which would be of interest to students of natural +history; noting any changes of habits in the animals and any causes that +tend to make them decrease in numbers, giving an idea of the times at +which the different larger beasts became extinct, and the like. Around +my ranch on the Little Missouri there have been several curious changes +in the fauna. Thus, magpies have greatly decreased in number, owing, I +believe, mainly to the wolf-hunters. Magpies often come around carcasses +and eat poisoned baits. I have seen as many as seven lying dead around a +bait. They are much less plentiful than they formerly were. In this last +year, 1894, I saw one large party; otherwise only two or three +stragglers. This same year I was rather surprised at meeting a +porcupine, usually a beast of the timber, at least twenty miles from +trees. He was grubbing after sagebrush roots on the edge of a cut bank +by a half-dried creek. I was stalking an antelope at the time, and +stopped to watch him for about five minutes. He paid no heed to me, +though I was within three or four paces of him. Both the luciver, or +northern lynx, and the wolverine have been found on the Little Missouri, +near the Kildeer Mountains, but I do not know of a specimen of either +that has been killed there for some years past. The blackfooted ferret +was always rare, and is rare now. But few beaver are left; they were +very abundant in 1880, but were speedily trapped out when the Indians +vanished and the Northern Pacific Railroad was built. While this +railroad was building, the bears frequently caused much trouble by +industriously damming the culverts. + +With us the first animal to disappear was the buffalo. In the old days, +say from 1870 to 1880, the buffalo were probably the most abundant of +all animals along the Little Missouri in the region that I know, +ranging, say, from Pretty Buttes to the Killdeer Mountains. They were +migratory, and at times almost all of them might leave; but, on the +whole, they were the most abundant of the game animals. In 1881 they +were still almost as numerous as ever. In 1883 all were killed but a few +stragglers, and the last of these stragglers that I heard of as seen in +our immediate neighborhood was in 1885. The second game animal in point +of abundance was the blacktail. It did not go out on the prairies, but +in the broken country adjoining the river it was far more plentiful than +any other kind of game. It is greatly reduced in numbers now. Blacktail +were not much slaughtered until the buffalo began to give out, say in +1882; but they are probably now not a twentieth as plentiful as they +were in that year. Elk were plentiful in 1880, though never anything +like as abundant as the buffalo and the blacktail. Only straggling +parties or individuals have been seen since 1883. The last I shot near +my ranch was in 1886; but two or three have been shot since, and a cow +and calf were seen, chased and almost roped by the riders on the +round-up in the fall of 1893. Doubtless one or two still linger even yet +in inaccessible places. Whitetail were never as numerous as the other +game, but they have held their own well. Though they have decreased in +numbers, the decrease is by no means as great as of the blacktail, and a +good many can be shot yet. A dozen years ago probably twenty blacktail +were killed for every one whitetail; now the numbers are about equal. +Antelope were plentiful in the old days, though not nearly so much so as +buffalo and blacktail. The hunters did not molest them while the buffalo +and elk lasted, and they then turned their attention to the blacktails. +For some years after 1880 I think the pronghorn in our neighborhood +positively increased in numbers. In 1886 I thought them more plentiful +than I had ever known them before. Since then they have decreased, and +in the last two years the decrease has been quite rapid. Mountain sheep +were never very plentiful, and during the last dozen years they have +decreased proportionately less than any other game. Bears have decreased +in numbers, and have become very shy and difficult to get at; they were +never plentiful. Cougars were always very scarce. + +There were two stages of hunting in our country, as in almost all other +countries similarly situated. In 1880 the Northern Pacific Railroad was +built nearly to the edge of the Bad Lands, and the danger of Indian war +was totally eliminated. A great inrush of hunters followed. In 1881, +1882 and 1883 buffalo, elk and blacktail were slaughtered in enormous +numbers, and a good many whitetail and prongbuck were killed too. By +1884 the game had been so thinned out that hide hunting and meat hunting +had ceased to pay. A few professional hunters remained, but most of them +moved elsewhere, or were obliged to go into other business. From that +time the hunting has chiefly been done by the ranchers and occasional +small grangers. In consequence, for six or eight years the game about +held its own--the antelope, as I have said above, at one time +increasing; but the gradual increase in the number of actual settlers is +now beginning to tell, and the game is becoming slowly scarcer. + +The only wild animals that have increased with us are the wolves. These +are more plentiful now than they were ten years ago. I have never known +them so numerous or so daring in their assaults on stock as in 1894. +They not only kill colts and calves, but full-grown steers and horses. +Quite a number have been poisoned, but they are very wary about taking +baits. Quite a number also have been roped by the men on the round-up +who have happened to run across them when gorged from feeding at a +carcass. Nevertheless, for the last few years they have tended to +increase in numbers, though they are so wary, and nowadays so strictly +nocturnal in their habits, that they are not often seen. This great +increase, following a great diminution, in the number of wolves along +the Little Missouri is very curious. Twenty years ago, or thereabouts, +wolves were common, and they were then frequently seen by every traveler +and hunter. With the advent of the wolfers, who poisoned them for their +skins, they disappeared, the disappearance being only partly explicable, +however, by the poisoning. For a number of years they continued scarce; +but during the last four or five they have again grown numerous, why I +cannot say. I wish that there were sufficient data at hand to tell +whether they have decreased during these four or five years in +neighboring regions, say in central and eastern Montana. Another curious +feature of the case is that the white wolves, which in the middle of +the century were so common in this region, are now very rare. I have +heard of but one, which was seen on the upper Cannon Ball in 1892. One +nearly black wolf was killed in 1893. + +I suppose all hunters are continually asked what rifles they use. Any +good modern rifle is good enough, and, after a certain degree of +excellence in the weapon is attained, the difference between it and a +somewhat better rifle counts for comparatively little compared to the +difference in the skill, nerve and judgment of the men using them. +Moreover, there is room for a great deal of individual variation of +opinion among experts as to rifles. I personally prefer the Winchester. +I used a .45-75 until I broke it in a fall while goat-hunting, and since +then I have used a .45-90. For my own use I consider either gun much +preferable to the .500 and .577 caliber double-barreled Express for use +with bears, buffalo, moose and elk; yet my brother, for instance, always +preferred the double-barreled Express; Mr. Theodore Van Dyke prefers the +large bore, and Mr. H. L. Stimson has had built a special .577 +Winchester, which he tells me he finds excellent for grizzly bears. +There is the same difference of opinion among men who hunt game on +other continents than ours. Thus, Mr. Royal Carroll, in shooting +rhinoceros, buffalo and the like in South Africa, preferred big, heavy +English double-barrels; while Mr. William Chanler, after trying these +same double-barrels, finally threw them aside in favor of the .45-90 +Winchester for use even against such large and thick-hided beasts as +rhinoceros. There was an amusing incident connected with Mr. Chanler's +experiences. In a letter to the London _Field_ he happened to mention +that he preferred, for rhinoceros and other large game, the .45-90 +Winchester to the double-barrel .577, so frequently produced by the +English gun makers. His letter was followed by a perfect chorus of +protests in the shape of other letters by men who preferred the +double-barrel. These men had a perfect right to their opinions, but the +comic feature of their letters was that, as a rule, they almost seemed +to think that Mr. Chanler's preference of the .45-90 repeater showed +some kind of moral delinquency on his part; while the gun maker, whose +double-barrel Mr. Chanler had discarded in favor of the Winchester, +solemnly produced tests to show that the bullets from his gun had more +penetration than those from the Winchester--which had no more to do with +the question than the production by the Winchester people of targets to +show that this weapon possessed superior accuracy would have had. Of +course, the element of penetration is only one of twenty entering into +the question; accuracy, handiness, rapidity of fire, penetration, +shock--all have to be considered. Penetration is useless after a certain +point has been reached. Shock is useless if it is gained at too great +expense of penetration or accuracy. Flatness of trajectory, though +admirable, is not as important as accuracy, and when gained at a great +expense of accuracy is simply a disadvantage. All of these points are +admirably discussed in Mr. A. C. Gould's "Modern American Rifles." In +the right place, a fair-sized bullet is as good as a very big one; in +the wrong place, the big one is best; but the medium one will do more +good in the right place than the big one away from its right place; and +if it is more accurate it is therefore preferable. + +Entirely apart from the merit of guns, there is a considerable element +of mere fashion in them. For the last twenty years there has been much +controversy between the advocates of two styles of rifles--that is, the +weapon with a comparatively small bore and long, solid bullet and a +moderate charge of powder, and the weapon of comparatively large bore +with a very heavy charge of powder and a short bullet, often with a +hollow end. The first is the type of rifle that has always been used by +ninety-nine out of a hundred American hunters, and indeed it is the only +kind of rifle that has ever been used to any extent in North America; +the second is the favorite weapon of English sportsmen in those grandest +of the world's hunting grounds, India and South Africa. When a +single-shot rifle is not used, the American usually takes a repeater, +the Englishman a double-barrel. Each type has some good qualities that +the other lacks, and each has some defects. The personal equation must +always be taken into account in dealing with either; excellent sportsmen +of equal experience give conflicting accounts of the performances of the +two types. Personally, I think that the American type is nearer right. +In reading the last book of the great South African hunter, Mr. Selous, +I noticed with much interest that in hunting elephants he and many of +the Dutch elephant hunters had abandoned the huge four and eight bores +championed by that doughty hunter, Sir Samuel Baker, and had adopted +precisely the type of rifle which was in almost universal use among the +American buffalo hunters from 1870 to 1883--that is, a rifle of .45 +caliber, shooting 75 grains of powder and a bullet of 550 grains. The +favorite weapon of the American buffalo hunter was a Sharps rifle of .45 +caliber, shooting about 550 grains of lead and using ordinarily 90 to +110 grains of powder--which, however, was probably not as strong as the +powder used by Mr. Selous; in other words, the types of gun were +identically the same. I have elsewhere stated that by actual experience +the big double-barreled English eight and ten bores were found inferior +to Sharps rifle for bison-hunting on the Western plains. I know nothing +about elephant or rhinoceros shooting; but my own experience with bison, +bear, moose and elk has long convinced me that for them and for all +similar animals (including, I have no doubt, the lion and tiger) the +.45-90 type of repeater is, on the whole, the best of the existing +sporting rifles for my own use. I have of late years loaded my +cartridges not with the ordinary rifle powder, but with 85 grains of +Orange lightning, and have used a bullet with 350 grains of lead, and +then have bored a small hole, taking out 15 or 20 grains, in the point; +but for heavy game I think the solid bullet better. Judging from what I +have been told by some of my friends, however, it seems not unlikely +that the best sporting rifle will ultimately prove to be the very small +caliber repeating rifle now found in various forms in the military +service of all countries--a caliber of say .256 or .310, with 40 grains +of powder and a 200-grain bullet. These rifles possess marvelous +accuracy and a very flat trajectory. The speed of the bullet causes it +to mushroom if made of lead, and gives it great penetration if hardened. +Certain of my friends have used rifles of this type on bears, caribou +and deer; they were said to be far superior to the ordinary sporting +rifle. A repeating rifle of this type is really merely a much more +perfect form of the repeating rifles that have for so long been +favorites with American hunters. + +But these are merely my personal opinions; and, as I said before, among +the many kinds of excellent sporting rifles turned out by the best +modern makers each has its special good points and its special defects; +and equally good sportsmen, of equally wide experience, will be found to +vary widely in their judgment of the relative worth of the different +weapons. Some people can do better with one rifle and some with another, +and in the long run it is "the man behind the gun" that counts most. + +_Theodore Roosevelt._ + + + + +Wolf-Coursing + + +While wolf-coursing is one of the most thrilling and exciting sports to +be enjoyed in this country, it is less indulged in than any other sport; +this, too, in the face of the fact that no country offers such excellent +opportunities for its practice. This is, no doubt, due to the fact that +it is a sport requiring special preparation, a thorough knowledge of +both the game and country, and is very trying on horse, rider and hound. +Russia seems to be the only country in which it has a foothold and a +permanent place in the hearts of its sportsmen. In fact, with the +Russians it might be called a national pastime. However, did it require +in this country the same outlay of money, time and preparation that it +does in Russia, I doubt very much its advancement as a sport. + +There are really but two species of wolf in this country--the timber +wolf, generally called the gray, and the prairie wolf or coyote. In +different sections one hears of other varieties; but these, I believe, +are merely variations in color and size, and are not specific +differences. While the habits of the coyote or prairie wolf are well +known to a majority of sportsmen, it is not so with the timber or gray +wolf, and a few words in regard to the latter will not be amiss. + +[Illustration: THE WOLF THROWING ZLOOEM.] + +My experience is that the wolves of Montana and Wyoming are larger, +stronger and fiercer than those further south, though it is a fact that +the largest single wolf that I ever saw killed was in Arizona. However, +he was an exception to the general run of them there. If we may judge of +the Russian or European wolf from specimens to be seen in menageries and +zoological gardens, the American wolf, while not so tall or leggy, is +more compact, with heavier head, coarser muzzle, smaller ears, and +perhaps a little heavier in weight--the American wolf standing from 29 +to 36 inches at shoulder, and weighing from 85 to 125 pounds. I am also +inclined to think that the American wolf is, when run down to a +death-finish, a much more formidable foe for dogs than his European +relative. I reached this conclusion only after hunting them with +high-priced hounds, that had won medals in Russia for wolf-killing, but +which demonstrated their utter inability even to hold American wolves. + +Alive, the wolf is the enemy of man and beast, and when dead he is +almost useless. His skin has but little commercial value, and even dogs +refuse to eat his flesh. I have never known dogs to tear and mutilate a +wolf's carcass, and verily believe they would starve to death before +eating its flesh. And yet I have read accounts of hunters feeding their +dogs upon wolf meat. I recall an effort I made to cultivate in my dogs a +taste for wolf meat. I cut up a quantity of bear meat into small strips +and tossed them to the dogs, which would gulp them down before they +could fall upon the ground. Substituting a piece of wolf meat was of no +avail; they detected it instantly, and those which were fooled into +swallowing it immediately lost interest in the proceedings and walked +away. + +The wolf is by nature cowardly, being deficient in courage comparative +to his strength and great size, but he often becomes courageous from +necessity. When reduced to extremity by hunger, he braves danger, and +has been known in numbers to attack man, though no such incident ever +came under my personal observation. I have had them dog my footsteps +throughout a long day's hunt, always managing to remain just beyond +gunshot distance; and upon one occasion, when I had shot a pheasant, one +actually carried it off in full view before I could reach it, and, +notwithstanding I fired several shots that must have come uncomfortably +close, he made off with his dangerously earned meal. + +As a general thing, however, the wolf manifests a desire to run, rather +than fight, for life, and when alone will frequently tuck his tail +between his legs, and run like a stricken cur from a dog that he could +easily crush out of existence. They are great believers in the maxim, +"In union there is strength." The female, while apparently more timid +than the male, seems to lose all sense of danger when hemmed in and +forced to a fight, and attacks with intrepidity. I once shot a female at +long range, the bullet from my Winchester passing through her hind +quarters and breaking both legs. When I got up to her, she was +surrounded by the ranch dogs--an odd assortment of "mongrel puppy, whelp +and hound, and cur of low degree"--furiously attacking first one, then +another of them as they circled around her; and, though she was +partially paralyzed, dragging her hind quarters, she successfully stood +off the entire pack until another bullet ended the struggle. When in +whelp they fight with great obstinacy, and defend themselves with +intrepidity, being seemingly insensible to punishment. When captured +young they are susceptible of taming and domestication, though they are +never free from treachery. Though I have heard it denied, I know it to +be a fact that the dog has been successfully crossed upon the wolf. I +saw any number of the produce around the old Spotted Tail agency. They +closely resembled wolves, and were hardly distinguishable from them in +appearance, though generally lacking the good qualities of faithfulness +and attachment possessed by the dog. + +The amount of damage a wolf can do in a horse or cattle country is +almost beyond belief. He slaughters indiscriminately, carrying waste and +destruction to any section he honors with his presence. When a pack of +these nocturnal marauders come across an unprotected flock of sheep, a +sanguinary massacre occurs, and not until they have killed, torn or +mangled the entire flock will they return to the mountains. Thus the +wolves become a scourge, and their depredations upon herds of sheep and +cattle cause no inconsiderable loss to the rancher. They frequently +plunder for days and nights together. I am not prepared to state whether +it is owing to daintiness of appetite or pure love of killing, but as it +is a fact that a single wolf has been known to kill a hundred sheep in a +night, it would seem that this indiscriminate slaughter was more to +satisfy his malignity than his hunger. It is a prevalent idea that the +wolf will eat putrid meat. This I have not found to be true. He seldom +if ever devours carcasses after they begin to putrify, choosing to hunt +for fresh spoils rather than to return to that which he had half +devoured, before leaving it to the tender mercies of the coyotes, who +have an appetite less nice. + +The coyote is a good scavenger, following in the footsteps of the wolf, +and will pick bones until they glisten like ivory. His fondness for +domestic fowl and his thieving propensity often embolden him to enter +farmyards and even residences during the daytime; yet he often seems +contented to dine upon corrupt flesh, bones, hair, old boots and +saddles, and many remarkable gastronomic performances are credited to +him. I had occasion to "sleep out" one night in the Powder River +country, and, after picketing my horse, I threw my saddle upon the +ground near the picket pin, and, placing my cartridge belt beneath the +saddle--which I used as a pillow--I was soon sound asleep. Imagine my +surprise at daybreak--knowing there was not a human being within fifty +miles of me--to find that my cartridge belt was missing. After a short +search I found the cartridges some few hundred yards away, and a few +remnants of the belt. The coyotes had actually stolen this from under my +head without disturbing me, devoured it and licked all the grease from +the cartridges. I felt thankful that they had not devoured my rawhide +riata. + +Of all animals that I have hunted, I consider the wolf the hardest to +capture or kill. There is only one way in which he can be successfully +coped with, and that is with a pack of dogs trained to the purpose and +thoroughly understanding their business. Dogs, as a rule, have +sufficient combativeness to assail any animal, and, as a general thing, +two or three of them can easily kill another animal of same size and +weight; but the wolf, with his wonderful vitality and tenacity of life, +combined with his thickness of skin, matted hair and resistant muscles, +is anything but an easy victim for even six or eight times his number. + +I spent the winter of 1874-75 in a portion of the Rocky Mountains +uninhabited except by our own party. Wolves were very plentiful, and we +determined to secure as many pelts as possible. Owing to the rough +nature of the country and our inability to keep up with the dogs on +horseback, we tried poisoning, but with only moderate success. While +others claim it is an easy matter to poison wolves, we did not find it +so. In a country where game is plentiful, it is almost impossible to +poison them. We tried trapping them, with like results. Always +mistrustful and intensely suspicious, they imagine everything unusual +they see is a trap laid to betray or capture them, and with extreme +sagacity avoid everything strange and new. When caught, they frequently +gnaw off a foot or leg rather than be taken. Our cabin was surrounded by +a stockade wall, over which we could throw such portions of deer +carcasses as we did not use, and at nightfall the wolves, attracted by +the smell of the meat, would assemble on the outside, and we shot them +from the portholes. It required a death shot; for, if only wounded, no +matter how badly, they would manage to get far enough away from the +stockade to be torn into shreds by the survivors before we could drive +them off. I have always found the wolf a most difficult animal to shoot. +Endowed with wonderful powers of scent and extremely cunning, it is +almost impossible to stalk them. Frequently, after a long stalk after +one, have I raised my head to find him gone, his nose having warned him +of my approach. + +The successful chase of the wolf requires a species of knowledge that +can be acquired only by experience. It also requires men, horses and +dogs trained and disciplined for the purpose; and woe to the man, horse +or dog that undertakes it without such preparation. The true sportsman +is not a blood-thirsty animal. The actual killing of an animal, its mere +death, is not sport. Therefore, upon several occasions, I have declined +to join a general wolf round-up, where men form a cordon, and, by +beating the country, drive them to a common center and kill them +indiscriminately. I have always preferred hunting them with hounds to +any other method of extermination. The enjoyment of sport increases in +proportion to the amount of danger to man and beast engaged in it, and +for this reason coursing wolves has always held a peculiar fascination +for me. A number of years spent in the far West afforded me ample +opportunity to indulge my tastes in this line of sport, so my knowledge +of wolf-hunting and the habits of the wolf has been derived from +personal experience and from association with famous hunters. + +The principal drawback to the pleasure of wolf-coursing is the danger to +a good horse from bad footing, and the possible mutilation and death of +a favorite dog--death and destruction of hounds being often attendant +upon the capture and death of a full-grown wolf. I do not know that I +can give a better idea of the sport than by describing a day's +wolf-hunting I enjoyed in the early seventies near Raw Hide Butte, in +Wyoming. + +We had notified the cook, an odd character who went by the name of +Steamboat, to call us by daybreak. As we sat up late talking about the +anticipated pleasures of the morrow, it seemed to me that I had hardly +closed my eyes when Steamboat's heavy cavalry boots were heard beating a +tattoo on the shack door. I rolled out of my bunk, to find Maje and +Zach, my companions in the hunt, dressed and pulling on their shaps. +Hastily dressing, I followed them out to the corral just as the gray +tints of earliest morning were gathering in the sky. The horses had been +corralled the night before, and, with Steamboat standing in the door, +using anything but choice language at our delay in coming to breakfast, +we saddled up. Having ridden my own horse, a sturdy half-breed from Salt +Lake, very hard the day before in running down a wounded antelope, I +decided on a fresh mount; and, as luck would have it, I selected one of +the best lookers in the band, only to find out later, to my sorrow, that +I had fallen upon the only bucking horse in the lot. While we +breakfasted upon antelope steak, flapjacks and strong coffee, Steamboat +was harnessing a couple of wiry cayuses to a buckboard, and, as we came +out, we found him with the strike dogs chained to the seat behind him, +impatient to be off. The party consisted of Maje, a long-legged, +slab-sided, six-foot Kentuckian, mounted on a "States" horse; Zach, an +out-and-out typical cowboy, who had come up from Texas on the trail, +mounted on a pinto that did not look as though he had been fed since his +arrival in the territory, but, as Zach knowingly remarked, "No route was +too long or pace too hot for him"; Steamboat in the buckboard, holding +with a pair of slips Dan, an English greyhound, and Scotty, a Scotch +deerhound; while the other dogs, consisting of a pair of young +greyhounds, a pair of cross-bred grey and deerhounds, and Lead, an +old-time Southern foxhound, were making the horses miserable by jumping +first at their heads, then at their heels, in their eagerness to +facilitate the start; and myself on the bucking broncho. + +While crossing the creek a few hundred yards above the ranch, I heard +old Lead give mouth, a short distance ahead, in a chaparral rendered +impenetrable by tangled undergrowth, and which formed secure covert for +countless varmints. Knowing that he never threw his tongue without +cause, I dug my spurs into my horse, with the intention of joining him. +But I reckoned without my host, and for the next few minutes all my +energies were devoted to sticking to my horse, who then and there in the +creek bed proceeded to give an illustration of bucking that would have +put the wild West buckers to shame. Lead had jumped a coyote that put +off with all the speed that deadly terror could impart--all the dogs +after him full tilt. It required quite a display of energy upon the part +of Zach and his pinto to whip the dogs off; and, had it not been for the +fact that Dan and Scotty--who had jerked Steamboat literally out of the +buckboard and raced off together with the slips dangling about their +heels--ran into a bush, and the slips catching held them fast, we would +have been called upon to participate in a coyote and not a +wolf-hunt--as, when once slipped, no human power could have stopped +these dogs until they had tested the metal of Brer Coyote. By the time +Zach and the dogs returned, I had convinced my broncho that I was not a +tenderfoot, having "been there before," and he was contented to keep at +least two feet upon the ground at the same time. + +We rode probably five or six miles, carefully scanning the trackless +plains, without sighting a wolf, when Maje, who had ridden off a mile +to our right, was seen upon a butte wildly waving his hat. We +instinctively knew that game was afoot, and, as he disappeared, we +commenced a wild stampede for the butte. Steamboat, with slips and reins +in one hand and blacksnake whip in the other, came thundering after us, +lashing his team into a wild, mad run--and how he managed to hold +himself and dogs on the bounding buckboard was a mystery to me. Reaching +the butte, we espied Maje a mile away, riding for dear life. It did not +take long to decide, from the general direction taken, that the wolf +would shortly return to us. Keeping well back out of sight, we +impatiently awaited his return, and, had it not been for the pure +malignity of my broncho, the wolf would have doubled back within a few +hundred yards of us, and a close race have resulted. + +I had taken the dogs from Steamboat, and, with the release cord of the +slips around my wrist, sat in the saddle ready to sight and slip the +dogs. Becoming impatient under the restraint, the dogs ran behind my +horse, and, as the strap of the slips got under his tail, he again +commenced bucking, and before I could control him we were in full view +of the wolf, which, upon sighting us, veered off to the left. Although +not over a half mile away, the dogs failed to sight him. With a cheer to +the loose dogs, we pushed forward at top speed, the cracking of the +quirts upon our horses' flanks being echoed in the rear by the incessant +popping of Steamboat's whip as he lashed the panting cayuses to the top +of their speed in a vain effort to keep up with us. + +We joined Maje at the point where we had last seen the wolf, which by +this time had disappeared. Going over a rise, we dropped down into an +arroyo, where the foxhound again gave tongue, and started back on the +trail almost in the same direction in which we had come. Thinking that +for once he was at fault, and back-tracking, I took the two dogs in +slips up the arroyo, while Maje, Zach and the pack of dogs followed the +foxhound, and were soon out of sight and hearing. Circling around for +some distance and seeing no sign of the wolf, I rode upon a high point, +and, searching the country carefully through my glasses, I could see the +party probably a mile and a half away; and, from the manner in which +they were getting over the ground, I knew they had again sighted. A +hard ride of two miles, in which the dogs almost dragged me from my +horse in their eagerness, brought me within sighting distance of the +dogs--the voice of the foxhound, which was in the rear, floating back to +me in strong and melodious tones across the plains. Slipping Dan and +Scotty, they went from the slips like a pair of bullets and soon left me +far behind. Upon rounding a point of rocks, I saw one of the young dogs +lying upon the ground. A hasty glance showed me, from the violent manner +in which he strained to catch his breath, that he had tackled the wolf +and his windpipe was injured. It afterward developed that he had become +separated from the pack, and, in cutting across country, had imprudently +taken hold of the wolf, which, with one snap of his powerful jaws, had +utterly disabled him, and then continued his flight. Like most wolves, +he seemed to be able to keep up the pace he had set over all kinds of +ground. It seemed to him a matter of indifference whether the way was up +or down hill, and he evidently sought the roughest and stoniest ground, +following ravines and coulees--this giving him a great advantage over +horses and hounds. My horse beginning to show signs of distress, I +realized that, if the chase was to be a straightaway, I would see but +little of it and probably not be in at the death anyway; so I again +sought a high point that gave a commanding view over a large area of +country, and determined to await developments. Every once in a while, +with the aid of my glasses, I could see the pack, fairly well bunched, +straining every muscle, running as though for life. I could catch +occasional glimpses of the wolf far in advance, as he scurried through +the sagebrush, showing little power of strategy, but a determined +obstinacy to outfoot his relentless foes. + +Fortune again favored me. By degrees the superior speed and stamina of +the hounds began to tell, though both seemed to be running with +undiminished speed. The wolf, finding that, with all his speed and +cunning, they were slowly but surely overtaking him, circled in my +direction, and I was soon again an important factor in the hunt, urging +the dogs with shouts of encouragement. I was now near enough to note +that one of the young greyhounds, which had evidently been running +cunning by lying back and cutting across, was far in advance of the +pack--not over 100 yards behind the wolf, and gaining rapidly. Striking +a rise in the ground, he overtook the wolf and seized him by the +shoulder. The wolf seemed to drag him several yards before he reached +around, and with his powerful, punishing jaws gave him a slash that laid +his skull bare and rolled him over on the prairie. + +Slight as this interruption was, it encouraged Dan to greater effort, +and the next minute he had distanced the pack, nailed the wolf by the +jowl, and over they went, wolf on top. Scotty was but a few paces +behind, and, taking a hind hold, tried to stretch him. With a mighty +effort the wolf tore himself loose from both and started to run again. +He had not gone thirty paces before Scotty bowled him over again. +Rising, he sullenly faced his foes, who, with wholesome respect for his +glistening ivories, seemed to hesitate while recovering their wind, as +they were sadly blown after their long run, the day being an intensely +hot one. At this point I rode up. The wolf lay closely hugging the +ground, his swollen tongue protruding from foam-flecked chops, and with +keen and wary eye he watched the maddened pack circling about looking +for a vulnerable point. Varied experience in the art of self-defense +had taught him skill and quickness, and as each dog essayed to assail +him he found a threatening array of teeth. Throwing myself from the +saddle, I cheered them on. Dan and Scotty hesitated no longer, but +rushed savagely at him, one on either side, and the whole pack, +including the one recently scalped, regardless of his gaping wound, +followed them. + +For a few minutes the pile resembled a struggling mass of dogs, and the +air seemed filled with flying hair, fur and foam, and the snapping of +teeth was like castanets. At first the wolf seemed only intent upon +shaking off his foes and escaping, but the punishment he was receiving +could not long be borne; and from then on to the last gasp, with eyes +flaming with rage, every power seemingly put forth, he fought like a +demon possessed. As he tossed the dogs about, seemingly breaking their +hold at will, I was singularly impressed with his enormous size and +strength, his shaggy appearance and his generally savage look, and +suggested to Maje and Zach, who had come up in the meantime, that we +take a hand in the fray, as I doubted the ability of the dogs to finish +him without serious loss. However, we decided to give them the +opportunity, and ere long they had him _hors de combat_, stretched upon +the ground, his body crimson with his own life's blood, in the last +throes of death. He was one of the largest specimens I had ever seen, +weighing not less than 120 pounds, the green pelt weighing twenty-four. +His carcass, when stood up alongside of Scotty, seemed several inches +taller, and I afterward measured the latter and found him to be +thirty-one inches. + +All of the dogs received more or less punishment; none escaped +scathless, but really much less damage was done than I expected. This +was owing to the fact that Dan and Scotty, two of the staunchest seizers +I ever saw, engaged him constantly in front, while the other dogs +literally disemboweled him. Scotty had a bad cut on the side of the +neck, requiring several stitches to close, and the muscles of his +shoulder were laid bare; while Dan's most serious hurt was a cut from +dome of skull to corner of eye, from which he never entirely recovered, +as he ever afterward had a weeping eye. One of the cross-breeds, whose +pads were not well indurated, suffered from lacerated feet, and one of +his stoppers was torn almost off, necessitating removal. A wolf's bite +is both cruel and dangerous, and wounds on dogs are obstinate and very +hard to heal--more so than those of any other animal. While skinning the +wolf, our horses were standing with lowered heads, heaving flanks, +shaking and trembling limbs; my horse, much to my satisfaction, +evidently without a good buck left in him. + +After a full hour's rest for man and beast, we started back to the +ranch. Taking Steamboat with the buckboard, I went back to the point of +rocks with the intention of taking up the injured dog. Upon arrival +there no trace of him could be found; he had mysteriously disappeared. +Thinking that he had recovered sufficiently to make his way back to the +ranch, we increased our speed and soon joined the others, who had been +heading directly for home. The ride home was devoid of incident, the +monotony being occasionally broken by our frantic efforts to restrain +the dogs from chasing innumerable jack rabbits that bounded away on +three legs, in their most tantalizing way, inviting us to a chase. We +also got within rifle shot of a band of antelope, seeming quite at ease, +feeding and gamboling sportively with each other, until a pistol shot +at long range sent them skimming gracefully over the plains, finally +vanishing like a flying shadow in the distance. While crossing the creek +below, and within sight of the ranch, we again heard Lead give tongue in +the chaparral above the ranch, and in a few minutes he had a coyote +busy, doubtless the same one we had disturbed in taking a constitutional +in the morning. The dogs, now a sorry looking set, had been jogging +lazily along behind us, but in a moment were all life and action. Their +spirits were contagious, and, though we had positively agreed under no +circumstances to run a coyote, we very soon found ourselves flying after +the vanishing pack in full pursuit. A pretty race ensued. When first +dislodged the coyote appeared lame to such an extent that I thought his +leg broken; but after warming up this affection entirely disappeared, +and the pace was a hot one for the first mile. The dogs ran well +together, and were gradually lessening the gap between them and their +wily foe, who, realizing this, displayed tact in selecting the very +worst possible ground for footing, and soon regained his lost vantage. +It began to look as though the coyote would again give us the slip, +when one of the young dogs, that Zach in his excitement had ridden over +several minutes before and presumably killed, was seen to dash out from +a draw and bowl over the coyote. His hold was not a good one, but he +succeeded in turning the coyote, who then made a straight line for a +bunch of cattle grazing near, becoming temporarily unsighted among the +cattle. The dogs again fell behind, and when again sighted the coyote +was making a bee line for the ranch. By the time the creek was reached, +he was in evident distress and sorely pressed. With a final effort he +dashed through the creek up the opposite bank, and, as he dodged into +the open corral gate, one of the greyhounds flicked the hair from his +hind quarters. It was his last effort. By the time we reached the +corral, he was being literally pulled to pieces. We could not see that +he made additional wounds upon any of the dogs. In the excitement of the +finish of the chase I had lost Maje, and it was only after the death in +the corral that I missed him. Going to the adobe wall, I peered over and +saw him some distance away standing beside his horse. Upon going back to +him, we found that his horse had stepped into a prairie dog hole, +throwing him violently, and, turning a somersault, had landed upon him. +The only damage to Maje was, he had been converted for the time being +into a cactus pincushion; but his "States" horse had broken his fore leg +at the pastern joint and had to be shot. + +After the long run of the morning, this race afforded us ample scope for +testing both the speed and staying qualities of the dogs as well as of +our horses. + +We were disappointed in not finding the injured dog at the ranch. In +fact, he was never afterward heard of, and doubtless crawled away among +the rocks and died alone. After sewing up Scotty's wounds, dressing the +minor cuts of the other dogs and removing the cactus and prickly pear +points from their feet (the latter not a small job by any means), we +were soon doing full justice to Steamboat's satisfying if not appetizing +meal. + +In contrast to our simple preparations and equipment for this, an +average wolf-hunt in that country, wolf-hunts in Russia, as described to +me by my friend, St. Allen, of St. Petersburg, are certainly grand +affairs; but when the two methods of hunting are compared, I cannot but +believe that the balance of sport is in our favor. + +I have frequently been asked what breed of dogs I consider best for +wolf-hunting. Having tried nearly all kinds, experience and observation +justify me in asserting that the greyhound is undoubtedly the best. In +the first place, there is no question of their ability to catch wolves, +and, when properly bred and reared, their courage is undoubted. It is a +general supposition that the greyhound is devoid of the power of scent. +This is a mistake, as can be attested by anyone who has ever hunted them +generally in the West upon large game, especially wolves, which give a +stronger scent than any other animal. Of course, this power is not as +well developed in the greyhound as in other breeds, because the uses to +which he is put do not require scent, and, under the law of evolution, +it has deteriorated as a natural consequence. Unrivaled in speed and +endurance, these qualities have been developed and bred for, while the +olfactory organs have been necessarily neglected by restricting the work +of the dogs to sight hunting. Experience has taught me that they are the +only breed of dogs that, without special training or preparation, will +take hold and stay in the fight with the first wolf they encounter until +they have killed him. I have heard it said that this was because they +did not have sense enough to avoid a wolf. At all events, it is a fact +that they will unhesitatingly take hold of a wolf when dogs older, +stronger and better adapted to fighting will refuse to do so. I have +found that, while all dogs will hunt or run a fox spontaneously, with +seeming pleasure, they have a natural repugnance and great aversion to +the proverbially offensive odor peculiar to the wolf. I once hunted a +pack of high-bred foxhounds, noted for their courage. They had not only +caught and killed scores of red foxes, but had also been used in running +down and killing sheep-killing dogs. Though they had never seen a wolf, +I did not doubt for an instant that they would kill one. While they +trailed and ran him true, pulling him down in a few miles, they utterly +refused to break him up when caught. The following extract, from an +article I wrote some years ago on the "Greyhound," for the "American +Book of the Dog," expresses my views of the courage and adaptability of +the greyhound for wolf-hunting: + +"A general impression prevails that the greyhound is a timid animal, +lacking heart and courage. This may be true of some few strains of the +breed, but, could the reader have ridden several courses with me at +meetings of the American Coursing Club which I have judged, and have +seen greyhounds, as I have seen them, run until their hind legs refused +to propel them further, and then crawl on their breasts after a +thoroughly used up jack rabbit but a few feet in advance, the singing +and whistling in their throats plainly heard at fifty yards, literally +in the last gasp of death, trying to catch their prey, he or she would +agree with me in crediting them with both the qualities mentioned." + +In hunting the antelope, it is not an uncommon thing to see a greyhound, +especially in hot weather, continue the chase until he dies before his +master reaches him. An uninjured antelope is capable of giving any +greyhound all the work he can stand, and unless the latter is in prime +condition his chances are poor indeed to throttle. A peculiar feature of +the greyhound is that he always attacks large game in the throat, head +or fore part of the body. I have even seen them leave the line of the +jack rabbit to get at his throat. Old "California Joe," at one time +chief of scouts with Gen. Custer, in 1875 owned a grand specimen of the +greyhound called Kentuck, presented to him by Gen. Custer. I saw this +dog, in the Big Horn country, seize and throw a yearling bull buffalo, +which then dragged the dog on his back over rough stones, trampled and +pawed him until his ears were split, two ribs broken, and neck and fore +shoulders frightfully cut and lacerated, yet he never released his hold +until a Sharps rifle bullet through the heart of the buffalo ended the +unequal struggle. Talk about a lack of courage! I have seen many a +greyhound single-handed and alone overhaul and tackle a coyote, and in a +pack have seen them close in and take hold of a big gray timber wolf or +a mountain lion and stay throughout the fight, coming out bleeding and +quivering, with hardly a whole skin among them. In point of speed, +courage, fortitude, endurance and fine, almost human judgment, no +grander animal lives than the greyhound. He knows no fear; he turns from +no game animal on which he is sighted, no matter how large or how +ferocious. He pursues with the speed of the wind, seizes the instant he +comes up with the game, and stays in the fight until either he or the +quarry is dead. Of all dogs these are the highest in ambition and +courage, and, when sufficiently understood, they are capable of great +attachment. + +In selecting dogs for wolf-killing, the most essential qualities to be +desired are courage, strength and stamina to sustain continued exertion, +with plenty of force and dash. Training is a matter requiring unlimited +patience, coupled with firmness and judgment, and a large amount of love +for a dog. It also requires constant watchfulness of a dog's every +movement and mood to make a successful wolf-courser of him. Many a good +dog has been ruined at the outset by not being fully understood. + +They should receive their first practical work when about one year old, +provided they are sufficiently developed to stand the hard work +necessary. They generally have mind enough at this age to know what is +expected of them. It is, of course, better to hunt a young dog first +with older and experienced dogs, which will take hold of any kind of +game. The larger and stronger the dog, the better; for it requires +immense powers of endurance, hardihood and strength to hold, much less +kill, a wolf. The latter are particularly strong in the fore quarters +and muscles of the neck and jaw. As an evidence of their great strength, +I saw a wolf, while running at full speed, seize the Siberian wolfhound +Zlooem by the shoulder and throw him bodily into the air, landing him on +his back several feet away, and yet this wolf did not weigh as much as +the dog. + +Particular care should be taken to see that a young dog gets started +right in his practical training. Encourage him with your presence; do +all you can to see that he is sighted promptly; spare no expense or +pains in getting a good mount, and keep as close as possible during the +fighting; enliven him with your voice, and encourage him to renewed +effort; for his ardor increases in proportion to the encouragement and +praise received. Ride hard, to be in early at the death. His confidence +once gained, he will place implicit reliance in your assistance; but, +let him be beaten off once or twice through lack of encouragement, and +he will soon lose his relish for the sport and show a disposition to +hang back; while he may seem to be doing his best, a practiced eye will +soon detect a want of ardor and dash. A pack of hounds, with a good +strike dog and confidence in their owner, will carry everything before +them; by keeping them in good heart they always expect success to crown +their efforts. + +If from any cause in the final struggle the dogs are getting the worst +of it, or the other dogs refuse to assist the seizers, one must not +hesitate an instant about assisting them; this requires perfect +coolness, self-control and presence of mind, so as not to injure the +dog. To attempt the use of the pistol or gun is too dangerous. A +well-directed blow with a good strong hunting knife, delivered between +the shoulders, will generally break the spine, leaving the wolf entirely +at the mercy of the hounds. + +I would advise no one to attempt the Russian method of taping the jaws +while the wolf is held by the seizers. I had an experience of this kind +once. After a long chase, the wolf, in his efforts to escape, leaped a +wall, and, in alighting upon the farther side, thrust his head and neck +through a natural loop formed by a grapevine growing around a tree. +Reaching him as soon as the hounds, I fought them off; but, although he +was virtually as fast as if in a vise, it required the united efforts of +five of us to bind his legs and tape his jaws, and this was only +accomplished after a severe struggle of some minutes. I am sure I would +not have trusted any dog or dogs I ever hunted to have held him during +this operation. + +One should always be provided with a spool of surgeon's silk and a +needle, for these will assuredly be called into use. Old Major, a +greyhound owned by Dr. Van Hummel and myself, full of years and honors, +is still alive. He was a typical seizer and afraid of nothing that wore +hair. His entire body is seamed with innumerable scars, and has been +sewed up so often that he resembles a veritable piece of needlework. As +an evidence of his speed, strength and early training, I recollect that, +shortly after I had hunted him in the West, I had him at my home in +Kentucky. The Doctor was on a visit to me, and we had taken Major to the +country with us while inspecting stock farms. At Wyndom Place, where we +were admiring a handsome two-year-old Longfellow colt, running loose in +the field, the owner, before we were aware of his intention, set Major +after the colt "to show his speed and style." We both instantly saw his +error, but it was too late--we could not call the dog off. He soon +overhauled the colt, and, springing at his throat, down they went in a +heap--the colt, worth a thousand dollars, ruined for life. + +One of the most glaring instances of improper training and handling of +wolfhounds that ever came under my observation was the Colorado +wolf-hunt that attracted so much attention in the sporting press of this +country, England and Russia. Mr. Paul Hacke, an enthusiastic fancier, of +Pittsburg, Pa., while in Russia attended a wolf-killing contest in which +the barzois contested with captive wolves. He became so much enamored of +the sport that he purchased a number of trained barzois and brought them +to this country. They were a handsome lot and attracted much attention +while being exhibited at the bench shows. I was one of the official +judges at the Chicago Bench Show in 1892, and wolfhound classes were +assigned me. While I admired them very much for their handsome, showy +appearance, I expressed grave doubts as to their ability to catch and +kill timber wolves, notwithstanding I had read graphic accounts of +their killing coyotes in thirty-five seconds. This doubt was shared and +expressed by others present who had had practical experience in +wolf-hunting. This coming to the ears of Mr. Hacke, who is always +willing to back his opinion with his money, he issued a sweeping +challenge offering to match a pair of barzois against any pair of dogs +in the United States for a wolf-killing contest, for $500 a side. His +challenge was promptly accepted by Mr. Geo. McDougall, of Butte City, +Montana. + +I was selected to judge the match, and in the spring of 1892 we made up +a congenial carload and journeyed to Hardin, in the wilds of Colorado, +where our sleeper was sidetracked. Arrangements were made at an +adjoining horse ranch, and every morning a band of horses was promptly +on hand at daylight. On the night of our arrival at Hardin, a fine +saddle horse had been hamstrung in his owner's stable by wolves. It was +a pitiful sight, and added zest to our determination to exterminate as +many as possible. + +We were awakened from our sound sleep the first morning by the familiar +sounds of saddling, accompanied by the pawing and bucking of horses, +swearing of men, and snarling and growling of dogs. After a hasty +breakfast, eaten by lamplight, we were soon mounted and in motion for +the rendezvous. We had hardly crossed the Platte River, near which our +camp was located, before the advance guard announced a wolf in full +flight. A glance through my field-glasses convinced me that it was an +impudent coyote, and we continued our search. We had probably ridden an +hour through sand and cactus before one of the hunters had a wolf up and +going. + +McDougall had selected Black Sam, a cross between a deerhound and a +greyhound, as his first representative, and he was accordingly in the +slips with a magnificent-looking barzoi representing Mr. Hacke. Porter, +from Salt Lake, the slipper and an old-time hunter, had all he could do +to hold them until the word to slip was given. They went away from the +slips in great style, the barzoi getting a few feet the best of it; but +in the lead up to the wolf the cross-breed made a go-by, and, overtaking +the flying wolf, unhesitatingly seized and turned it. Before it could +straighten out for another run, the barzoi was upon it, and +unfortunately took a hind hold, which it easily broke. The cross-breed, +without having received a cut or even a pinch, lost all interest in the +proceedings, and stood around looking on as unconcerned as though there +was not a wolf within a hundred miles; and, though the wolf assumed a +combative attitude, at bay, ready to do battle, and made no effort to +avoid her canine foes, neither dog could be induced to tackle her again. +The barzoi acted as though he was willing if any assistance was afforded +by the half-breed. Neither of these dogs showed any evidence of +cowardice, in my opinion, though credited with it by representatives of +the press present. The evidences of this feeling are unmistakable, and I +have seen fear and terror too often expressed by dogs, when attacked or +run by wolves, not to recognize it when present. They did not turn a +hair, and walked about within twenty feet of the wolf with their tails +carried as gayly as though they were on exhibition at a bench show. Very +different was the action of a rancher's dog, evidently a cross between a +St. Bernard and a mastiff, that came up at this stage of the game. As +soon as he caught sight of the wolf, every hair on his back reversed, +his tail drooped between his legs, and the efforts of three strong men +could hardly have held him. This I call fear and cowardice; the actions +of the others, a lack of proper training and knowledge of how to fight. +As the wolf was a female and apparently heavy with whelp, I at the time +thought this was the cause of their queer actions; but later, when +skinning the wolf for the pelt, I found no evidence of whelp, but a +stomach full of calf's flesh. In the second course, Allan Breck, a big, +powerful Scotch deerhound, and Nipsic, a lighter female of the same +breed, were put in the slips and a male wolf put up. They readily +overhauled him. Allan, leading several lengths in the run up, promptly +took a shoulder hold and bowled over the wolf; then, as though he +considered his whole duty performed, quietly looked on, while Nipsic +kept up a running fight with the wolf, attacking him a score of times, +but was unable alone to disable or kill him. It was only after the wolf +and Nipsic were lassoed and dragged apart by horsemen that she desisted +in her crude efforts to kill the wolf. She displayed no lack of courage, +but a total lack of training and knowledge of how to fight. In the final +course two grand specimens of the barzoi were placed in the slips; one +of them, Zlooem, a magnificent animal, all power and life, who had won +the Czar's gold medal in St. Petersburg in a wolf contest, impressed me +forcibly with the idea that, if he once obtained a throat hold, it would +be all over with the wolf. On this occasion I had a most excellent +mount, a thoroughbred Kentucky race mare, and, as one of the conditions +of the match was that I alone was to be allowed to follow the hounds, I +determined to stay with them throughout the run at all hazards, and to +be in at the death. The wolf was put up in the bottom land of the Platte +River. The footing was excellent, and, as he had but a few hundred +yards' start, I was enabled to be within fifty yards of them throughout +the run and fighting. The wolf at first started off as though he had +decided to depend upon speed to save his pelt, disdaining to employ his +usual stratagem, and the hounds gained but little upon him. Finding that +but one horseman and two strange-looking animals were following him, he +slackened his pace, and in an incredibly short time Zlooem was upon even +terms with him, and, seizing by the throat, over and over they went in a +cloud of sand, from which the wolf emerged first, again on the retreat, +with both hounds after him full tilt. Within a hundred yards they again +downed him, only to be shaken off. This was repeated probably a half +dozen times, and, though both the barzois had throat and flank holds, +they were unable to "stretch him." After five minutes of fast and +furious fighting, they dashed into a bunch of frightened cattle and +became separated. Though I immediately cut the wolf out of the bunch of +cattle and he limped off in full view, the dogs were too exhausted to +follow, and their condition was truly pitiable. Zlooem staggered about +and fell headlong upon his side, unable to rise. Both were so thoroughly +exhausted from their tremendous efforts that they could not stand upon +their feet; their tongues were swollen and protruding full length, their +breath came in short and labored gasps, the whistle and rattle in their +throats was audible at some distance, while their legs trembled and were +really unable to sustain the weight of their bodies. At the expiration +of ten minutes, I signaled the slippers to come and take the dogs up; +and thus ended the bid of the Russian wolfhound for popularity in this +country. + +Upon our return to Denver we were waited upon by a ranchman who had +heard of the failure of a pair of these dogs to catch and kill wolves. +He stated that he had a leash of greyhounds that could catch and kill +gray timber wolves, and deposited $500 to bind a match to that effect. +He was very much in earnest, and I regretted that we could not raise a +purse of $500, as I should like to have seen the feat performed--my +experience being that it required from four to six to accomplish this, +and that even then they have to understand their business thoroughly. + +_Roger D. Williams._ + + + + +Game Laws + + +Laws for the preservation of wild animals are a product of civilization. +The more civilized a nation, the broader and more humane will be these +laws. + +Our ancestors of the flint age were lawless. After the fall "thorns also +and thistles" came forth, and man ceased from eating herb-bearing seed +and fruit, and turned his hand to killing and eating flesh--"even as +Nimrod, the mighty hunter before the Lord." Many great and dangerous +animals then existed, and it was a necessity to kill off the cave bear, +the cave tiger and the mastodon. The earliest of Chaldean poems +indicates the equally great fishing of those days: "Canst thou draw out +leviathan with an hook, or his tongue with a cord which thou lettest +down?" All savage nations are still ruthless and wasteful in their +destruction of animal life. An example is found on the plains, where a +thousand buffalo were driven over the walls of a canyon that a tribe +might have a feast, although the tribe might, and often did, starve +during the coming winter. + +With the slow progress of civilization, at first customs grew up, and +then laws were enacted consonant with the degree of education of the +lawmakers. In ancient Oriental nations only a few animals were protected +for the use of the rulers. Thus the elephant, the cheetah and the falcon +in the East came under royal protection. The Normans, when they were not +at war, followed the chase with ardor, and passed laws for the +protection of deer, wolves and the wild boar. The Saxons, like the +Romans, guarded their forest preserves, but left the open country free +for chase to all the people. After the Conquest the new Norman rulers +applied their own stern and selfish laws over all England. Not only was +the chase forbidden, but the bearing of arms used in the chase as well, +and the conquerors thus preserved the game for their own use, and also +kept in subjection the disarmed people. Their punishments were +barbarous, and comprised maiming and death, and the killing of a deer or +a wild boar was punished with putting out the eyes or death. No greater +penalty was inflicted for the killing of a man. + +The underlying principle maintained was that all wild game was the +property of no one, and that to which no one had title belonged to the +sovereign. So the king held all lands not apportioned, and granted +permission to his chiefs to hunt therein. He also created the right of +_free chase_, _warren_ and _free fishery_, thus authorizing a designated +person to protect game and to follow the chase on the land of others, or +protect and take fish from rivers and streams that flowed over the +properties of other men. These claims of right became numerous and so +burdensome that they were subsequently restricted by Magna Charta. The +fascination of the chase, indulged in for years, became so inwrought in +the English mind that it formed the principal recreation of the people, +shared in alike by nobles, priests and peasants, evoking a world of +romance and legend in Robin Hood tales, and a sturdy, semi-warlike +pride. The exercise formed a school of stalwart out-of-door men, whose +descendants of like taste have invaded the remotest isles of the sea, +and girdled the earth with the colonies of England. The taste made its +fair mark on English verse from the early date of Chevy Chase, when, + + To chase the deer with hawk and hound + Earl Percy took his way, + +down to this present year of grace, when Conan Doyle's archer sings: + + So we'll drink all together + To the grey goose feather, + And the land where the grey goose flew. + +The pomp and dignity of the chase, its pursuit by the highest clergy and +the sad result of want of skill by an archbishop are quaintly disclosed +in the trial of the Archbishop of Canterbury for accidentally killing a +game-keeper instead of a deer in the forest of Bramshill in the year +1621, as reported at length in Vol. II. of Cobbett's State Trials. + +The right in the crown to all wild game, thus claimed and established in +England, became part of the common law, and was inherited by the +American colonies; and thus wild game in our Republic became the +property of the people, and the duty of its care and protection fell +upon the different States of the Republic, and in the territories upon +Congress. + +It is unnecessary to enumerate the different game laws and the various +cruel judgments entered therein in the English courts, or to refer to +the many essays and orations written and delivered against the game laws +of the various European States. They met the condemnation alike of +philanthropists, statesmen and poets. Charles Kingsley wrote in 1848, on +behalf of the people, the bold and pathetic song: + + The merry brown hares came leaping + Over the crest of the hill. + +It defended the poacher lad, but lost for the writer his lawn sleeves. + +The great distinction to be ever borne in mind between the game laws of +Europe and those of America is, that the former were passed for the +protection of game for a class, while the laws of a republic are passed +for the preservation of game for the use of all the people. The former +encountered the hostility of all the people save the aristocracy; the +latter should obtain the approbation of all the people, rich and poor, +for they are passed and maintained for the good of the people at large. + +The value of the fish and game to the people of the State of Maine is +greater and brings into the State more money than its hay crop or its +potato crop. The value of a mountain stream is nothing except as it may +water people or kine. Stock and protect that river by suitable laws, and +the fishing privileges may be rented for an annual rental that will pay +all the taxes of every county through which it runs. Yet often it is +that the inhabitant of that county complains of the injustice of +preventing him from taking fish therein at his pleasure at any season of +the year. + +The earliest recorded game law is found in the twenty-second chapter of +Deuteronomy, where it is forbidden to take a bird from her nest. The +earliest law upon this subject in America that we find was the act of +the Assembly of Virginia of 1699, II. William III., wherein the killing +of deer between January and July was prohibited under a penalty of 500 +pounds of tobacco. In Maryland an act was passed on the same subject in +1730, which recites the evils of constant shooting--"Which evil +practice, if not put a stop to, may in a few years entirely destroy the +species of deer, to the great damage of the good people of this +province; be it enacted by the Right Honorable the Lord proprietary, by +and with the consent of his Lordship's Governor and the upper and lower +Houses of Assembly, that it should not be lawful that any person +(Indians in amity with us excepted), between January first and July +last, to kill any deer under the penalty of 400 pounds of tobacco." +South Carolina followed in 1769 with an act prohibiting the killing of +deer during the same period, "under a penalty of forty shillings +proclamation money." Both of these acts prohibited night hunting with +fire-light, as did also the Statutes of the Mississippi Territory. + +The earliest laws upon this subject in Kentucky were passed in 1775 by +the Legislature, appropriately holding its sessions under the greenwood +trees, and their author was Daniel Boone. + +The earliest law in the State of New York was passed in 1791 (2 Session +Laws of 1791, p. 188), and it prohibited the killing of "heath hen, +partridge, quail or woodcock" on Long Island, or "in the city and county +of New York," under penalty of twenty shillings. + +Laws upon this subject thereafter multiplied in New York, varying in +their scope and character with every Legislature. Sometimes the +prosecution was left to the county prosecutor; sometimes it was +permitted to the informer, who shared the penalty; sometimes the power +of enacting laws was reserved to the State; sometimes it was delegated +to the supervisors. In 1879, by the influence of the Society for the +Preservation of Game, a complete act was passed, entitled "An Act for +the Preservation of Moose and Wild Deer, Birds, Fish and other Game," +which for many years was vigorously enforced by that Society, and became +the model for like laws in many other States. This law made the +possession of game during the close season the offense, and not _prima +facie_ evidence of killing, and also it removed from the various local +supervisors the power of making laws upon this subject. + +These two essential features of law cannot be too strongly insisted upon +with all lawmakers. Under this statute hundreds of prosecutions were +made and convictions had in the markets of the great cities. The bidding +for game by wealthy cities is the incentive to unlawful killing, and the +closing of the markets stops the poacher's business more thoroughly than +the conviction of an occasional poacher. When the law permitted game +killed in other States during the open season to be sold in the State +of New York in the close season, there was no lack of evidence to show +that every head of game was killed elsewhere and in the open season, and +the petit jury always found in favor of the oppressed market man. When +the law was changed so that all game, wherever killed, was decreed +illegal, the defense was plead that such a law restricted commerce and +was unconstitutional; and it was not until the Society carried the case +of Royal Phelps, President of the Society for the Preservation of Game, +against Racey, through to the court of last resort, as reported in 60th +New York Reports, that this defense was decreed insufficient. That case +was followed in Illinois (97 Ill., 320), and Missouri (1st Mo. App., +15), and in other States, until it became the established law of the +land. The Supreme Court of the United States held (125 U. S., 465), that +a State cannot prohibit the importation of merchandise from another +State, but can the sale. That court also sustained the right of States +to protect fisheries and destroy illegal nets (Lawton _vs._ Steel, 152 +U. S.), and it affirmed the right of States to compel the maintenance of +fishways in dams erected in rivers (Holyoke Co. _vs._ Lyman, 82 U. S.). +The United States courts also maintained purchaser's title to marsh +lands and enjoined trespassers from shooting thereon in Chisholm _vs._ +Caines (U. S. Circuit Court of the 4th District). Thus, step by step, +the game laws of the land were sustained, held to be constitutional and +enforced. + +The forms of defense which offenders deem it righteous to make to game +prosecutions are without number, and as fraudulent as their trade is +wasteful. One instance will illustrate. The writer, as counsel for the +Society for the Protection of Game, prosecuted one Clark, a prominent +poulterer in State street in Albany, for having and offering for sale +several barrels of quail. The case was tried at Albany, Hon. Amasa J. +Parker appearing for the defense. After the plaintiff's witnesses had +proved the possession of the birds, the offering for sale as quail, and +the handling of several of them by the witnesses, the defendant +testified that these birds were not quail at all, but were English +snipe, and that their bills were pared down and the birds were thus sold +as quail, as they brought a better price, and that he frequently did so +in his trade. Probably no person in the court-room believed this +evidence, but the jury found for the defendant. + +The defense has been frequently interposed, that the birds in question +were not the prohibited birds, but were some other or foreign variety, +until it was found that it was necessary always to purchase and to +produce in court, fresh or dried, some of the game in regard to which +the suit was being tried. + +Before leaving the litigation of the courts of the State of New York, +and in order to show how early and ardently the gentlemen of the old +school followed the diversions of the chase, it is well to cite the case +of Post against Pierson, tried in 1805 before the venerable Judges +Tompkins and Livingston, and reported in 3d Cain's New York Reports. It +there appears that Mr. Post, a worthy citizen of that most traditional +hunting ground, Long Island, organized a fox-hunt. The chase went +merrily-- + + An hundred hounds bayed deep and strong, + Clattered an hundred [more or less] steeds along, + +and they started a fox and had him in view, when one Pierson, of +Hempstead, the defendant in the case, well knowing of the chase, yet +with wicked and felonious mind intercepted, shot, killed and carried +away the fox. Post brought suit for the value of the animal, and the +injury to the outraged feelings of the members of the hunt. Counsel +learned in the law declaimed, and the wise opinion of the court, citing +all the authorities from Puffendorf down, covers five printed pages, and +finally decided that, "However uncourteous or unkind the conduct of +Pierson in this instance may have been, yet this act was productive of +no injury or damage for which a legal remedy can be applied." + +Probably to correct this ruling, the Statute of 1844 was passed, which +provides that anyone who starts and pursues deer in the Counties of +Suffolk and Queens shall be deemed in possession of the same. + +A great responsibility is thrown upon the Government of the United +States to protect the large game in the different national parks. In a +few years they will contain the only remnants of the buffalo, elk, +antelope and mountain sheep. Poachers, like wolves, surround these +parks, killing only to sell the heads for trophies. Captain George S. +Anderson and Scout F. Burgess have done a good work in the Yellowstone +Park in capturing poachers, which efforts were recognized by the Boone +and Crockett Club. If authority should be given to the army to try and +punish these poachers by martial law, it would save many a herd +elsewhere, and also relieve the Government from great expense for the +transporting and trial of offenders. + +When we reflect how many and valuable races of animals in North America +have become extinct or nearly so, as the buffalo and the manatee; how +many varieties of birds that afforded us food, or brightened the autumn +sky with their migrations, have been annihilated, as have been the +prairie fowl in the Eastern States and the passenger pigeon in all our +States, the necessity of these laws appears urgent. A few suggestions +that experience has taught us in regard to these matters are worthy of +record. + +We must remember that in a republic no law is effective without public +opinion to back it. Therefore, contemporaneously with making our laws, +we should by writing and speaking educate the public mind to appreciate +and sustain them. Experience has taught that in these prosecutions the +public prosecutor is a laggard. He prefers noted criminal cases and +neglects these, which he regards as trivial offenses. Therefore the law +should authorize private prosecutors, on giving security for costs and +damages, to make search and conduct prosecutions in their own names. + +Next, it is to be remembered that a single private person will make +himself odious in the community by bringing such prosecutions, and is +often deterred by the fear of revenge. Therefore, societies should be +formed, composed of many good citizens; they should employ their own +counsel, and prosecute in the name of the society or its president. + +Next, the law should definitely fix a penalty for having in possession, +transporting or exposing for sale. This is more important than +prohibiting the killing, as it is the marketing of dead game that +incites the killing. It is the market hunter that has destroyed all +feathered life on our prairies, and the cold storage process has enabled +him to transport to other States or countries, and make his gains there. +Close the market and the killing ceases. + +Another step to success is the procuring of the conformity of the laws +in neighboring States. The laws of New York may prohibit the sale of +quail, ruffed grouse and prairie fowl, and the societies may enforce +them in New York city, and day by day see the monstrous wrong of +carloads of prairie fowl and other valuable game brought into Jersey +City, and sold to the population of that town and to the ocean vessels +sailing from its docks. Our Western prairies are denuded of their birds, +that are frozen in the close season and are afterward shipped to Europe, +and sold in the markets there at a price often less than they would +bring in New York city. + +Again, laws on these subjects should be as simple as possible, including +in the one open and close season as many kinds of game as possible, and +creating a general public understanding that the shooting season opens +at a fixed date, say October 1st, and that no shooting or possession of +game is to be allowed prior to that date, and that the close season for +all game should commence on another certain date, say February 1st. + +Lastly, a defective law, that is permanent and uniform throughout the +State, is more effective than a better and more detailed law varying in +different counties and towns, and frequently altered. In illustration +of the vagaries of lawmakers in this respect, it is to be remembered +that the law of 1879, passed by the Legislature of the State of New +York, was a complete and well-studied statute, made after much +consultation, and meeting the approval of all the societies of the +State, as well as the market men, and operated in the main +satisfactorily to all. Since that date members of the Legislature from +the different localities introduced bills making some exception or +addition to the act, to benefit their little town or locality, to +prohibit fishing in certain waters, to protect certain other animals, to +provide certain restrictions as to weapons of chase or means of fishing, +or times and seasons; or giving powers to county supervisors to +legislate in addition to the general legislation of the State. Two +hundred and fourteen such acts and ordinances have been passed since +1879, until the general law has been obscured and brought into contempt. +These acts and ordinances include, among other curiosities, the +protection of muskrats and mink, the preservation of skunks and other +vermin, the prohibition of residents of one county from fishing in +another county, and protecting parts of certain lakes or rivers in a +different manner or season from other parts. In some of the acts words +are misspelled; in one it is enacted that "_wild birds_ shall not be +killed at any time." Another act was passed defining the word "angling," +as used in the general statute, thus--"taking fish with hook and line +and by rod held in hands," leaving the troller or the happy schoolboy, +that drops his hand-line from the bridge, exposed to the dire penalties +of the law. While writing in this year of grace, eighteen hundred and +ninety-five, the Legislature has passed a law permitting the sale of +game at any time in the year, providing it is shown to have been killed +300 miles from the State. + +This most unreasonable law was procured largely through the influence of +the Chicago market men. The States lying west of Chicago have been +endeavoring to protect their game. Salutary laws have been passed +prohibiting the killing and freezing of game, and the transportation of +it outside of those territories. The markets of Chicago and the other +great cities of the West being closed to the public sale of game, the +dealers sought to open the markets of New York, and they have thus done +so by this law. The Governor was fully advised of the purpose and effect +of the law, but the powerful societies of the market men were promoting +it and the bill was approved. In a few years the conspicuous prairie +fowl will exist only in the naturalists' books. + +In olden times laws upon these subjects protected only animals which +lent pleasure to the chase, and also certain royal fish which were +deemed to belong to the king. These old laws were selfish and severe, +and were enforced with the cruelty of the age. A gentler spirit has +since dawned upon the world, and now most game laws shelter as well the +song bird as the wild boar and the stag. The true hunter derives more +pleasure in watching the natural life around him than in killing the +game that he meets. His heart feels the poetry of nature in the "wren +light rustling among the leaves and twigs," and in the train of ducks +as, + + Darkly seen against the crimson sky, + Their figure floats along. + +He stops to enjoy the guttural syllables where "Robert of Lincoln is +telling his name" in the summer meadow. At early dawn and eventide he +listens to the bugle call of the great migration in the skies and +exclaims: + + Thou hast no sorrow in thy song, + No winter in thy year. + +He feels the love that is begotten by contact with nature, and he it is +in these later days who has extended the laws to protect all birds of +meadow and woods, while in return he is rewarded by a choir of songsters +giving thanks in musical numbers, + + Better than all measures + Of delightful sound, + Better than all treasures, + That in books are found. + +_Chas. E. Whitehead._ + + + + +[Illustration: YELLOWSTONE PARK ELK.] + +Protection of the Yellowstone National Park + + +The first regular expedition to enter the region now embraced within the +limits of the National Park was the Washburn party of 1870. + +In the summer of 1871 two parties--one under Captain J. W. Barlow, U. S. +Engineers, and the other under Dr. F. V. Hayden, U. S. Geological +Survey--made pretty thorough scientific explorations of the whole area. + +As a result of the reports made by these two parties, and largely +through the influence of Dr. Hayden, the organic act of March 1, 1872, +was passed, setting aside a certain designated "tract of land as a +public park or pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the +people." It further provided that this Park should be "under the +exclusive control of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall +be, as soon as practicable, to make and publish such rules and +regulations as he may deem necessary or proper for the care and +management of the same. Such regulations shall provide for the +preservation from injury or spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, +natural curiosities or wonders within the Park. + +"He shall provide against the wanton destruction of the fish and game +found within said Park, and against their capture or destruction for the +purpose of merchandise or profit. + +"And generally shall be authorized to take all such measures as shall be +necessary or proper to fully carry out the objects or purposes of this +act." + +It will be seen that "timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities and +wonders" were, by the terms of the _law_, protected from "injury or +spoliation." The Secretary of the Interior must, by _regulation_, +"provide against the wanton destruction of fish and game," and against +their "capture for the purpose of merchandise or profit." The Park +proper includes nearly 3,600 square miles, but under the act of 1891 a +timber reserve was set aside, adding about twenty-five miles on the east +and about eight on the south, making the total area nearly 5,600 square +miles. By an order of the Secretary of the Interior, dated April 14, +1891, this addition was placed under the control of the Acting +Superintendent of the Park, "with the same rules and regulations" as in +the Park; it thus in every respect became a part of the Park itself. + +Dr. Hayden drew the Park bill from his personal observations, made in +the summer of 1871. At that time the territorial lines were not run, and +their exact location was not known. He consequently chose for his +initial points the natural features of the ground, and made his lines +meridians and parallels of latitude. His selections seem almost a work +of inspiration. The north line takes in the low slopes on the north of +Mt. Everts and the valley of the East Fork of the Yellowstone, where the +elk, deer, antelope and mountain sheep winter by thousands; it leaves +outside every foot of land adapted to agriculture; also--and this is +more important than all--it passes over the rugged and inaccessible +summits of the snowy range, where the hardiest vandal dare not put his +shack. + +The east line might have been placed where the timber reserve line now +runs without much damage to material interests; but in that case the +owners of prospect holes about Cooke City would have long since secured +segregation. As the line runs, it is secured by the impassable +Absarokas--the summer home of large herds of mountain sheep--and it +includes not a foot of land of a dime's value to mortal man. Both south +and west lines are protected by mountain heights, and they exclude every +foot of land of any value for agriculture, or even for the grazing of +domestic cattle. + +The experiment was once made of wintering a herd of cattle in the lowest +part of the Park--the Falls River meadows, in the extreme southwest +corner--and, I believe, not a hoof survived. Their bones by the hundreds +now whiten the fair valley. + +Following the act of dedication, Mr. N. P. Langford was on May 10, 1872, +appointed superintendent, without salary. He was directed to "apply any +money which may be received from leases to carrying out the object of +the act." He never lived in the Park, never drew a salary, and never, +except by reports and recommendations, did anything for its protection. +In his first report he suggests that "wild game of all kinds be +protected by law," that trapping be prohibited, and that the timber be +protected from the axman and from fires. Unfortunately I am unable to +possess myself of any of his subsequent reports; but I know that he +toiled earnestly and without pay--and to no results. + +On April 18, 1877, Mr. P. W. Norris was appointed to succeed him. He +also served for love until July 5, 1878, when appropriations began, and +something was done for "Park protection." In his report for 1879 he +speaks of having stopped the killing of bison, and says that other game, +although "grown shy by the usually harmless fusillade of tourists," was +in "abundance for our largest parties." He also protected the wonders by +breaking them off with ax and crowbar, and shipping them by the carload +to Washington and elsewhere. His men did their best to protect the +forests from fires, and with only fair success. By this report (1879) it +seems that "no white men have ever spent an entire winter at the Mammoth +Hot Springs"; he strongly recommended game protection, but not the +prohibition of hunting. There was then but a single game superintendent, +and he without authority to act. As at present, the main trouble was +with the "Clark's Fork" people. The regulations permitted hunting for +"recreation" or "for food," which would always be made to cover the +object of any captured poacher. + +Major Norris was doubtless a valuable man for the place and the time; +but, as he expressed it in a manifesto dated July 1, 1881, and headed +"Mountain Comrades," "The construction of roads and bridle paths will be +our main object," to which he added the work of "explorations and +research." His entire force lived upon game, which was hunted only in +season, and preserved, or jerked, for a supply for the remainder of the +year. He was succeeded by Mr. P. H. Conger on February 2, 1882, but Mr. +Conger did not arrive until May 22 following, when he seems to have +fallen full upon the trials and the tribulations that have beset his +successors. He reported the necessity for protecting the wonders and the +game, but seems to have accomplished nothing in either direction. His +reports are largely made up of lists of the distinguished visitors by +whose hand-shake he was anointed. He was relieved in August, 1884, by +Mr. R. E. Carpenter, who was removed in May, 1885, without +accomplishing anything. Mr. David W. Wear was next in succession, and +remained until legislated out of office in August, 1886. Nothing of +value seems to have been done in these two administrations. In the +sundry civil appropriation bill for 1886-87 the item for the protection +and improvement of the Park was omitted. By the act of March 3, 1883, +the Secretary of War was authorized, on request from the Secretary of +the Interior, to detail part of the army for duty in the Park, the +commander of the troops to be the acting superintendent. As there was no +money appropriated to pay the old officers, they, of course, had +business elsewhere. Captain Moses Harris, First Cavalry, was the first +detailed under the new regime. He arrived there on August 17, 1886, and +assumed control on the 20th. From this time on things assumed a +different aspect. He had the assistance of a disciplined troop of +cavalry, and he used it with energy and discretion. It very soon became +unsafe to trespass in the Park, winter or summer, and load upon load of +confiscated property testified to the number of his captures. His +reports show the heroic efforts made to prevent and extinguish fires, to +prevent the defacement of the geysers and other formations, and to +protect the game. In his report for 1887 he pays his respects to our +enemies from "the northern and eastern borders"--the same hand that has +continued to depredate until this day. He speaks of the "immense herds +of elk that have passed the winter along the traveled road from Gardiner +to Cooke City," and he goes on to say that "but little efficient +protection can be afforded to this species of game except upon the +Yellowstone and its tributaries." He remained in charge until June 1, +1889, when he transferred his duties to Captain F. A. Boutelle, and in +the three years of his rule he inaugurated and put in motion most of the +protective measures now in use. + +Captain Boutelle, in succession to Captain Harris, continued his +methods, and protection prospered. Meantime, in 1889, an additional +troop of cavalry was detailed for duty in the Park in the summer, and +had station at the Lower Geyser Basin. The principal use of this troop +was in protecting the formations and the forests, but the work was well +done and the foundation was laid for future efficiency. + +I came to the Park in February, 1891, in succession to Captain Boutelle. +On his departure there was only one man left here familiar with the +Park and its needs, and that was Ed. Wilson, the scout. He had been a +trapper himself, and was thoroughly familiar with every species of game +and its haunts and habits. He was brave as Caesar, but feared the +mysterious and unseen. He preferred to operate alone by night and in +storms; he knew every foot of the Park, and knew it better than any +other man has yet known it; he knew its enemies and the practical +direction of their enmity. He came to me one morning and reported that a +man named Van Dyck was trapping beaver near Soda Butte; that he spent +his days on the highest points in the neighborhood, and with a glass +scanned every approach; and that the only way to get him was to go +alone, by night, and approach the position from the rear, over Specimen +Mountain. To this I readily assented, and at 9 that night, in as bad a +storm as I ever saw, Wilson started out for the forty-mile trip. He +reached a high point near the one occupied by Van Dyck, saw him visit +his traps in the twilight and return to his camp, where at daybreak the +next morning Wilson came upon him while sleeping, photographed him with +his own kodak, and then awakened him and brought him to the post. But, +unfortunately for the cause of Park protection, Wilson disappeared in +July of that year, and his remains were found a mile from headquarters +in the June following. That left me unsupported by anyone who knew the +place and its foes; I was fortunate, however, in having as his successor +Felix Burgess, who for more than three years has ably, bravely and +intelligently performed the perilous and thankless duties of the +position. + +But before going on with a description of my own work in the Park, I +will say a few words of my predecessors. In looking over the list, I +think I can, without disparagement of the rest, single out three for +especial mention. + +Langford was an explorer and pioneer; by his writings he made the Park +known to this country and to the whole world. He was an enthusiast and +his enthusiasm was contagious. Protection was not yet needed, but a +knowledge of the place was, and to this he largely contributed. He was +the proper man and he came at the proper time. + +Next came Major Norris. To him protection was a minor or unconsidered +subject. His "usually harmless fusillade of tourists" reminds one of +Paddy's remark to his master: "Did I hit the deer, Pat?" "No, my lord, +but you made him l'ave the place." For his time he was exactly suited; +he penetrated every remote nook and corner; built roads, blazed trails, +and in general made accessible all the wonders written of and described +by Mr. Langford. Protection was not yet due, but it was on the road and +close at hand. + +For this part of the work Major Harris was an ideal selection, and he +came none too soon. Austere, correct, unyielding, he was a terror to +evil doers. And, after all, is there anything more disagreeable than a +man who is always right? I believe Major Harris was always _sure_ he was +right before he acted, and then no fear of consequences deterred him. He +once arrested a man for defacing the formations at the Upper Basin. The +man confessed that he had done it, but that it was a small offense, and +that if put out of the Park for it he would publish the Major in all the +Montana papers. He was put out, and the Major was vilified in a manner +with which I am personally very familiar. The next year this same man +was sent to the penitentiary for one year for "holding up" one of the +Park coaches in the Gardiner Canyon. In 1891 I derived great assistance +in the protection of the wonders and the forests from Captain Edwards, +who, with his troop, had served in the Park before. Unfortunately he had +to leave in the autumn, and I was again left alone with my ignorance and +my good intentions. + +In May, 1892, Troop D of the Sixth Cavalry was sent to my assistance. +Captain Scott was in command, and he has remained until the present +time. Hard as iron, tireless and fearless, he has been an invaluable +assistant in all that pertains to Park protection. + +In protecting the beauties and wonders of the Park from vandalism, the +main things to be contended against were the propensities of women to +gather "specimens," and of men to advertise their folly by writing their +names on everything beautiful within their reach. Small squads of +soldiers were put on guard at each of the geyser basins, and at other +points where protection was needful, with orders to arrest and threaten +with expulsion anyone found breaking off or gathering specimens. Only a +few examples were needed to materially diminish this evil. Of course, +it still continued in small degree, but those who indulged in it had to +be at great pains to conceal their operations, and this of itself +greatly reduced the destruction. I personally engaged in a long +controversy with a reverend despoiler, whom I detected in the act of +breaking off a specimen. A large part of his defense was that, as I had +on no uniform, he did not know it was necessary to be watchful and +careful in my presence. + +The names of the vain glared at one from every bit of formation, and +from every place where the ingenuity of vanity could place them. +Primarily I ordered that every man found writing his name on the +formations should be sent back and made to erase it. I once sent a man +from the Mammoth Springs and once a man from the Canyon to the Upper +Basin to scrub his autograph from the rocks; and one morning a callow +youth from the West was aroused at 6:30 A. M. at the Fountain Hotel and +taken, with brush and soap, to the Fountain Geyser, there to obliterate +the supposed imperishable monument of his folly. His parents, who were +present, were delighted with the judgment awarded him, and his fellow +tourists by their taunts and gibes covered him with confusion as with a +garment. But, notwithstanding the sharpest watch and greatest care, new +names were constantly being added, and they could not easily be detected +from the old ones on account of the number of names already there. So, +in the early part of the season of 1892, with hammer and chisel, where +necessary, the old names were erased and we started even with the world, +and the geyser basins are practically free from this disfigurement +to-day. The remedy was heroic and successful, as such remedies usually +are. + +The protection of the forests--perhaps of more material importance than +any other form of Park protection--became a subject of study, care and +attention. As a rule, fires originated in one of three ways: by +carelessly left camp fires, by lightning, or by the rubbing together of +two trees swayed by the wind. There is no way of preventing the last two +forms of ignition; the only thing to be done is to keep a ceaseless +watch, and, so far as practicable, prevent the fire from spreading. The +extensive areas burned over in days evidently prior to the advent of +white men make it very apparent that these two agencies of destruction +were then at work, as it is certain they have been since. Camping +parties are many of them from cities, and they know little, and care +less, about the devastation a forest fire may create. They leave a small +and apparently harmless bunch of coals where their camp fire was; after +they have passed on, a wind springs up, fans the embers into flame, the +dry pine needles are kindled, and at once the forest is ablaze, and no +power on earth can put it out. When once the flame reaches the tree +tops, if the wind be strong, a man on horseback can scarce escape before +it. As the wind ceases the fire quiets down, only to spring up again +next day on the appearance of the afternoon breeze. The only time to +fight the fire is when the wind has gone down and the flames have +ceased. Then water poured on smouldering logs, earth thrown on +unextinguished stumps, and the clearing of a path before the line of +fire in the carpet of pine needles are the effective means of +extinguishment. After a fire is once got under control it is no unusual +thing for it to reappear 500 yards from any of its previous lines, +carried there as a spark through the air, and dropped in the resinous +tinder ever ready to receive and spread it. + +In the four seasons during which I have been in the Park but one fire of +any magnitude has occurred. That broke out along the main road, about a +mile north of Norris, in July, 1893. As it did not break out near a +camping place, its origin could not be traced to camp fires; nor could +it be charged to lightning or rubbing of trees. It was evidently started +by a match or other fire carelessly dropped by a member of the road +crew, then working near there, or possibly by a cigar stump thrown from +a stage by a tourist. It was at once reported to me by telegraph. The +troop was at drill, and in less than twenty minutes a dozen men, under +charge of a sergeant, were on their way, with shovels, axes and buckets, +to the scene of the trouble. An hour later the report was that it was +beyond control. I then sent out the balance of the troop, under +Lieutenant Vance, and ordered Captain Scott down from the Lower Basin +with all available men of his troop. Thus the whole of the two troops +were at the scene, and they remained there toiling and fighting night +and day for twenty days, when a providential rain put an end to their +labors. The area burned over included some exceptionally fine timber, +was in extreme length nearly six miles, and in breadth from a few feet +in some places to near a mile in others. + +A fire in pine woods may be successfully fought so long as it is kept +confined to the ground, but once it gets a start in the tree tops no +power on earth can cope with it; no effort is of the slightest avail. +Campers who leave their fires unextinguished often make the excuse that +they did not believe any damage could result, as the coals were nearly +dead. Although such might be the case at the hour of their leaving, in +the still air of morning, the afternoon wind is quite capable of blowing +them into dangerous and destructive life. My rule has been to insist on +the rigorous enforcement of the regulation requiring expulsion from the +Park in such cases. One or two expulsions each year serve as healthy +warnings, and these, backed by a system of numerous and vigilant +patrols, have brought about the particularly good results of which we +can boast. In 1892 a fire on Moose Creek was sighted from a point near +the Lake, and reported to me that night by wire from the Lake Hotel. +Before the next evening, Captain Scott was on the spot with his troop, +and the fire was soon under control. In a few hours it would have been +in the heavy timber on the shore of Shoshone Lake, and there is no limit +to the damage it might have wrought. + +As a last heading of my subject I shall touch on the protection of the +game. This was never seriously attempted until Major Harris came to the +Park, in 1886; but he attacked it with an earnestness and a fearlessness +that has left a lasting impress. It is not probable that the Park is the +natural home of bison, elk or deer, yet the last remnant of the first +and great numbers of the last two are found here. The high altitude, +great cold and extreme depth of snow make it a forbidding habitat for +the ruminants. They remain here simply because they are protected. +Protection was given by a system of scouting extended over the best game +ranges, and throughout the season of probable game destruction. A good +many captures were made; the poachers were turned loose and their +property confiscated; this was all the law allowed. The depredating +element of the community soon came to care very little for this menace +to their business, for they entered the Park with an equipment that +was hardly worth packing in to the post, and, if taken from them, +occasioned but small loss. + +[Illustration: A HUNTING DAY.] + +The accumulation of this sort of property had become great, and, as I +had no proper storage room for it, I began my work by making a bonfire +of it. A first requisite to successful work was to become acquainted +with the names, the haunts and the habits of those whom it was necessary +to watch or to capture. Ed. Wilson was thoroughly familiar with all +this, and many is the lesson I patiently took from him. He described to +me the leaders among the poachers from the several regions--Cooke, +Henry's Lake, Jackson's Lake and Gardiner. To begin with the Cooke City +parties, he named to me three as particularly active and dangerous: +these were Van Dyck, Pendleton and Howell. Van Dyck, he told me, was at +that time trapping beaver near Soda Butte, but he had not been able to +definitely locate him. He made two trips there through cold and storm, +but to no purpose. Finally, on his third expedition, he caught him, as +already stated, sleeping in his bed. His property was destroyed, and he +was held in the guard house awaiting the instructions of the Secretary +of the Interior, which for some reason were very slow in coming. At last +he was released, and ordered never again to cross the Park boundary +without permission. + +The next year Pendleton made a trip in the Park in early May, and got +out with two young bison calves, which he was carrying on pack animals +in beer boxes. Of course, they died before he got them to a place where +he could raise them in safety, and he soon started back to renew his +evil work. He was arrested and confined, and his case took exactly the +same course as Van Dyck's had taken. + +The last of the trio was Ed. Howell. Knowing of him and his habits, I +kept him as well under watch as possible. During a trip I made to the +east side of the Park in October, 1893, I saw many old signs of bison in +several localities. Howell having disappeared from public view for a +month or two, I sent Burgess out in January, 1894, with orders to +carefully scout this country. I indicated to him exactly where I +expected him to find signs of the marauder. He encountered very severe +weather, and was not able to make a full tour of the places indicated; +but he did report having found, in the exact locality I had designated +to him, tracks of a man on _skis_ drawing a toboggan. These tracks were +old and could not be followed, but they formed a valuable clue. I next +sent to the Soda Butte station and had a thorough search made near that +place. It was found that the same tracks had passed over the hill behind +the station, going toward Cooke. Careful inquiry developed the fact that +Howell had come in for provisions with his equipment, but that he had +not brought any trophies with him. Calculating the time when he should +be due again in the bison country, I gave Burgess an order to repeat his +trip there, and stay until he brought back results. He left the Lake +Hotel in a severe storm on March 11th, and camped the night of the 12th +where he had seen the tracks on his previous visit. Next morning, when +scarcely out of camp, he found a _cache_ of six bison scalps suspended +in a tree. The _ski_ tracks near by were old, and he was not able to +follow them. He possessed himself of the spoils and started down +Astringent Creek toward Pelican. When near the latter stream, he found a +lodge, evidently occupied at the time, and the tracks near it, fresh and +distinct, pointing to the southward. Soon he heard shots, and far off +in the distance he espied the culprit in the act of killing more of the +game. The problem then arose as to how he was to make the capture. With +him was only a single soldier, and the two had for arms only a .38 +caliber revolver. It was certain that this was Howell, and it was known +that he was a desperate character. + +In giving Burgess his orders, I had told him that I did not send him to +his death--that I did not want him to take risks or serious chances; I +impressed upon him the fact that, as far as Howell was concerned, even +if times were hard, the wages of sin had not been reduced. All this he +knew well, but there was a desperate criminal armed with a rifle; as for +himself, he might as well have been unarmed. However, fortune favored +him, and soon Howell became so occupied in removing the scalp from one +of his bison that Burgess, by a swift and silent run, approached within +four or five yards of him undiscovered. It would have been easy enough +to kill him then, but it was too much like cold-blooded murder to do so +at that range; at 200 or 300 yards it would have seemed entirely +different. Howell's rifle was leaning against a buffalo's carcass a few +yards from him. He made a step toward it, when Burgess told him to stop +or he would shoot. Howell then turned back and said, "All right, but you +would never have got me if I had seen you sooner." He was found +surrounded by the bodies of seven bison freshly killed, and, to +illustrate more fully the wanton nature of the man, of the eight scalps +brought in to the post, six were cows and one of the others was a +yearling calf. + +His case went through the same course as the others, and finally toward +the last of April he was turned loose, with orders to quit the Park and +never return. He, however, is cast in a different mold from some of the +previous captures, and some time in July he reappeared with the most +brazen and shameless effrontery. He was reincarcerated, tried, and +sentenced for disobedience of the order of expulsion. His sentence was +thirty days in jail and fifty dollars fine, and this he now has under +appeal. Insufficient as is Howell's punishment, his crime has been of +more service to the Park than any other event in its history; it created +the greatest interest throughout the country, and led to the passage of +the Park Protection Act, which was signed by the President on May 7th. +A strange coincidence in the cases of Van Dyck and Howell is that both +were accompanied by their faithful watchdogs, and neither dog gave a +sign of the approach of the enemy, and both men swore vengeance on their +faithless protectors. + +The preservation of elk, deer, antelope and the carnivora is assured. +Their numbers elsewhere, their wide distribution within the Park, their +relatively small commercial value, added to the danger attendant on +killing them within the Park, is a sufficient protection. Moose and +mountain sheep will probably increase for similar reasons, although they +are less generally distributed and are of greater value to head hunters. +With the bison it is different. They have entirely disappeared from all +other parts of the country, and they are of sufficient money value to +tempt the cupidity of the hunters and trappers who surround the Park on +all sides. It is told that a fine bison head has been sold, delivered in +London, for L200--nearly $1,000 in our money. A taxidermist would +probably be willing to pay $200 to $500 for such a scalp. Many a hardy +frontiersman, who has no sentiment for their preservation and no +respect for the law, will take his chances of capture for such a sum. + +Another animal that is difficult of preservation is the beaver; the +trouble in this case is entirely due to the ease with which traps may be +set in places where it is impossible to find them, and the ease with +which the pelts may be packed and carried out. Within the last four +years beaver have increased enormously, so I feel justified in saying +that their preservation is so far successful. + +For the general protection of the Park there are stationed within its +lines two troops of cavalry. They are both kept at the Mammoth Hot +Springs for eight months of the year, and one of them is sent to the +Lower Geyser Basin during the four months of the tourist season. Small +outposts are kept at Riverside on the west, Snake River on the south, +Soda Butte on the northeast, and Norris near the center. Besides these a +winter station has been placed in the Hayden Valley, and summer stations +are kept at the Upper Basin, Thumb, Lake and Canyon. Between these a +constant stream of patrols is kept up, so that no depredator can do very +much damage without detection. There is allowed but one civilian scout, +who is overworked and underpaid. With all this enormous territory to +guard, with all that is beautiful and valuable to protect, with the last +of the bison to preserve, it would seem that this rich Government should +be able to expend more than a paltry $900 per year for scouts, and more +than $500 (which it receives for rentals) for the other needs of the +Park. + +There are very few who appreciate the amount of work done here by the +soldiers in summer and in winter, in cold and in storms, on foot, on +horseback and on snowshoes--and all without murmur or word of complaint. +Never before was it so well placed before the public as it was by Mr. +Hough in his _Forest and Stream_ articles summer before last. Should +Congress be stirred to make a more liberal appropriation for the purpose +of carrying out the provisions of the act of May 7th, to him, more than +to any other man, will the credit be due. + +_Geo. S. Anderson._ + + + + +The Yellowstone National Park Protection Act + + +On May 7, 1894, President Cleveland approved an Act "to protect the +birds and animals in Yellowstone National Park, and to punish crimes in +said Park, and for other purposes." + +This law, as finally enacted, owed much to the efforts and labor of +members of the Boone and Crockett Club, who for many years had +persistently struggled to induce Congress to pass such necessary +legislation. The final triumph is a matter of congratulation to every +sportsman interested in the protection of game, and fulfills one of the +great objects sought to be attained by the foundation of the Club. While +the statute, in many of its details, could readily be improved, it is +still, in its general features, sufficient to serve the purposes of its +enactment. To those not conversant with the subject, the statement may +seem astonishing, that from the establishment of the Park in 1872 to the +passage of the Act in 1894 no law protecting either the Park, the +animals or the visitors was operative within the Yellowstone Park--a +region containing about 3,500 square miles, and larger than the States +of Delaware and Rhode Island. This condition of affairs was frequently +brought to the notice of the National Legislature, and in 1887 their +attention was called to it by a startling episode. A member of Congress, +Mr. Lacey, of Iowa, was a passenger in a stage which was "held up" in +the Park and robbed. The highwaymen were afterward apprehended, but +escaped the punishment suited to their crime because of the great doubt +existing as to whether any law was applicable. As to game offenses, +regulations were powerless for prevention in the absence of any +penalties by law to enforce them. + +The explanation of this anomalous situation is to be sought in the +circumstances under which the Park had been set apart. The eminent +scientists, who interested themselves in this important object, were +surrounded with difficulties. The vastness of the tract proposed to be +included, the question of expense, the selfish interests opposing the +measure, were obstacles not easy to overcome. Congress was told, "Give +us the Park; nothing more is needed than to reserve the land from public +sale or settlement." Doubtless the remoteness and isolation of the +region might have been thought, at the time, sufficient to insure +protection. But it was the wonderful scenery and extraordinary objects +of interest in the Park which were then thought of; the forests and the +game did not enter much into the consideration of the founders. And so +Congress passed the Act of 1872, merely defining the limits of the Park +and committing it to the keeping of the Department of the Interior, +which was empowered to make rules and regulations for its control. + +A great work was accomplished when Congress was persuaded to forever +dedicate this marvelous region as a National Park, for the benefit of +the entire country; and it was hoped and expected that Congress would, +in time, supplement the organizing Act by the needful additional +legislation. But this was not to be had for many years to come. For +some time after the year 1872, the reservation was occasionally visited +by a few adventurous spirits or Government parties on exploring +expeditions. During that period it became the refuge of the large game +which had gradually receded from the lower country before the advance of +settlement and railroads. The abundance of game astonished all who +beheld it. Bears, deer, elk, sheep, moose, antelope, buffalo, wolverines +and many other kinds of wild beasts were collected within an area which +afforded peculiar advantages to each and all. Nowhere else could such a +gathering of game be found in one locality. It should be remembered that +those who visited the Park in the early days we have mentioned confined +their investigations to a limited portion of it. The great winter ranges +and breeding grounds were almost unknown. During this period, game +killing was so slight and the supply so great that restrictions, by +those exercising a very uncertain authority in the reservation, were +hardly pretended to be enforced. + +But from about the year 1878 the depredations on the game of the Park +attained alarming proportions. The number of visitors had largely +increased. The skin hunter and the record hunter--twin brothers in +iniquity--appeared on the scene, and their number grew from year to +year. It was then that regulations and prohibitions were promulgated +from the Department of the Interior, but they were known to contain only +vain threats, which could be defied with impunity. And so the slaughter +continued, and likewise other depredations. Learned associations, +sportsmen's associations, visitors of all lands, showered petitions upon +Congress to pass some protective law. All that Congress did, however, +was in 1883 to confer authority for the use of troops in the Park. This +was something, and the effect of their presence was very beneficial, and +insured the only protection the Park had until the present time. +Congress seemed affected with an apathy which no appeals could change. +The result was non-action. + +Some Congressmen thought they were justified in declining to take any +interest in the matter, because few, if any, of their constituents had +ever visited the Park. Others thought that it should be a Wyoming or +Montana affair, and should be turned over to one or the other of those +then territories. A few seemed to labor under the impression that the +Park was nothing but a private pleasure ground, resorted to by the +wealthy class, and that it was no part of the Constitutional functions +of a Republican Government to afford security to wild animals, or to +incur any expense therefor. These narrow views were not shared by most +of the principal men in Congress; among these we had many staunch +friends, including especially several who held seats in the Senate. +Chief among them was Senator Vest, of Missouri, who at all times was +found ready to do everything in his power to promote the welfare of the +Park. Senator Manderson, of Nebraska, and many others were quite as +willing. It was largely due to the gentlemen we have named that the +Senate, as a body, was imbued with their views, and on all occasions +recognized the important national objects to be attained by the Park, +not only as a great game preserve, but also as a great forest +reservation of the highest economic importance. + +With the assistance of some of the present members of the Boone and +Crockett Club, a bill was framed which afforded in its provisions ample +protection to the Park, while it added largely to its area on the south +and on the east, embracing the great breeding grounds of the elk. This +bill was introduced by Senator Vest. But new difficulties now arose, +more serious than any hitherto encountered. By the completion of the +Northern Pacific Railroad a large influx of travel set in toward the +Park. It was now thought money was to be made there. Railroads through +it were talked about. Mines, situated near its northern border, were +said to contain untold wealth, needing only a railroad for their +development. A mining camp, called Cooke City, was started, and it was +urged that a railroad could reach it only by going through the Park. +Corporate influences made themselves felt. The bill introduced by +Senator Vest again and again, in session after session, passed the +Senate. The promoters of a railroad through the Park thought they saw +their opportunity. Afraid to launch their scheme of spoliation before +Congress as an independent measure, they sought to attach it as a rider +to the Park bill. They reasoned that those who desired the passage of +that bill regarded it as so important that they would be willing to +consent to its carrying a railroad rather than see all legislation on +the subject dropped or defeated. The plan was well conceived, but failed +of execution. The friends of the bill recognized that it was wiser to +leave the Park unprotected than to consent to what would be its +destruction. They recognized that, once railroads were allowed within +the Park, it would be a reservation only in name, and that before long +the forests and the game would both disappear. They therefore refused +the bait held out to them by the railroad promoters, who thereafter +always blocked the passage of the Park bill. In return they were always +defeated in their own scheme. The House Committee having the protection +bill in charge never failed to burden it with the railroad right of way +whenever it came to them, blandly ignoring the evident fact that a +railroad was not an appropriate nor a relevant feature to a law for the +protection of the Park. And so it happened that the bill which had been +the child of affection became an object of dread, and was denounced as +bitterly as it had before been advocated by its original friends. It was +thought better to have it die on the calendar than to take the risk of +its adoption by the House of Representatives with the obnoxious +amendment incorporated by the committee. + +Apart from that amendment, it was feared the bill would not only +encounter an opposition instigated by pecuniary interests, but might +itself fail to call to its support any counteracting influence. Those +who opposed the railroad, and notably the members of the Boone and +Crockett Club, who invariably appeared before the Public Lands Committee +to argue against it, were at the very least stigmatized as +"sentimentalists," who impeded material progress--as busybodies, who, +needing nothing themselves, interfered to prevent other people from +obtaining what was necessary and beneficial to commerce. With practical +legislators such animadversions are frequently not lacking in force, for +nothing more incurs their contempt than a measure which has not what +they call a _practical object_, by which they mean a _moneyed object_. +While throughout the country there was considerable general interest +taken in the preservation of the Park, such influence was not +sufficiently concentrated to make itself felt by Congress. The Park was +everybody's affair, and in the House of Representatives no one could be +found to take any special interest in it. And so the fight went on from +year to year. In Congress after Congress the bill was passed in the +Senate, and emerged from the House Committee on Public Lands weighted +down by the burden of the railroad. Secretary after Secretary of the +Interior protested against this feature of the bill, and so did every +officer of the Government who had any part in the administration or +exploration of the Park. But their protests were without effect on the +committee, which in those days seemed to regard the railroad as the most +important feature of the bill. + +It was clearly shown that the railroad would not only be most harmful to +the Park, but could serve no useful purpose; for it was quite possible +for a railroad to reach the mines without touching the Park, whereas the +projected route cut through the Park for a distance of some fifty miles. +The public press throughout the country was almost unanimous in +denouncing the threatened invasion of the reservation. But the railroad +in interest had a strong lobby at work, and many of the inhabitants in +the territories and States nearest the Park showed the most selfish +indifference to its preservation, and a greedy desire to plunder it. The +railroad lobbyists were very active. They saw the necessity of trying to +avoid openly outraging public opinion. Accordingly they changed the +bill, so that, instead of conferring a right of way through the Park, it +segregated and threw out of the reservation that portion through which +the railroad was to go. This was supposed to be a concession to public +sentiment; but it must have been thought that the public were very +easily deceived, for there was really no concession at all, save to the +railroad interests. Instead of a _right of way_ through a portion of the +Park, they now asked, and were offered by the committee, the land +itself. The Committee of the House proposed that this land should be +thrown out of the Park, and any and all railroads be allowed to scramble +for it. The area thus doomed is situated north of the Yellowstone River, +and constitutes one of the most attractive portions of the Park. It +includes the only great winter range of the elk. In the winter there can +be seen there some 5,000 animals, and no one who has traveled over this +region in summer has failed to observe the enormous number of shed +horns, showing how extensively the range is resorted to by this noble +animal. Here too can be found a large band of antelope at all times, +numbering about 500, and a smaller, but considerable, band of mountain +sheep. + +The friends of the Park succeeded in stopping the proposed railroad +legislation, but they could accomplish nothing else in Congress. They +had more success with another branch of the Government. There was a +statute authorizing the President to set apart any part of the public +domain as a forest reservation. Taking advantage of this, certain +members of the Boone and Crockett Club saw an opportunity of +substantially obtaining the enlargement of the Park which they had been +vainly endeavoring to obtain from Congress. They laid the matter before +General Noble, then Secretary of the Interior. He recommended to +President Harrison that the tract in question should be constituted a +forest reserve. This was done. In 1891 the President issued a +proclamation, establishing the Yellowstone Park Forest Reserve. It +embraced some 1,800 square miles, abutting on the east and south +boundaries of the Park. The Secretary afterward had the same regulations +extended to the Reserve as had been put in operation in the Park. This +important action was followed by further proclamations, instituting +other forest reservations in different sections of the country. The +Executive and its representative, the Department of the Interior, have +at all times been most sympathetic and helpful in the movement for +forest and game preservation. They have sternly resisted all assaults +upon the Park. + +The organization of the Boone and Crockett Club had been a great step +toward Park protection. Its membership included those who had shown most +interest in obtaining legislation. One of the main objects of the +society was the preservation of the game and the forests. It brought +together a body of men whose motives were entirely disinterested, and +who were able to make their influence felt. To their efforts must be +largely attributed the success which was ultimately attained. But that +success might have been indefinitely deferred had not Congress been +awakened to its duty by an event as shocking as it was unlooked for. + +For years one of the cherished objects of the Park had been the +preservation of perhaps the only surviving band of buffalo. It had +sought refuge in the mountains. It was known to be on the increase and +it was supposed that it would remain unmolested. Its number had been +estimated as high as 500. Its habitat was a wild and rugged country, +affording a seemingly secure asylum. For a long time these buffalo +remained comparatively safe. In the summer it would have been of no use +to slaughter them for their heads and hides. In the winter the snow was +so deep and their haunts so remote as to render it well nigh impossible +to pack heads or hides out to a market. But a desperate man was found to +take desperate chances. The trouble came to the Park from the mining +camp of Cooke. A notorious poacher named Howell made it his +headquarters. Its proximity to the northeast boundary of the Park made +it a convenient point from which to conduct his raids and to which he +might convey his booty. If he killed even a single buffalo, and safely +packed out of the Park its head or hide, he was sure of realizing a +large sum. If he was captured while making the attempt, he knew he was +safe from punishment, and that there was no penalty, even if there was +an offense. A less lawless man might have indulged a flexible conscience +with the idea that, as there was no punishment, there was no crime. A +similar view of ethics had been indulged in by a prominent member of the +gospel, who had killed game in the Park, and sought extenuation on the +ground that he had not violated any law. But Howell was not a man who +sought to justify his actions; it was sufficient for him that he +incurred no risk. The time he selected for his deed of destruction he +thought the most propitious for covering up his tracks. His operations +were conducted in the most tempestuous weather in that most tempestuous +month, March, in the year 1894. The snow then was deepest, and Howell +felt there would be little chance of interference by scouting or other +parties. Eluding the guard stationed in the northern portion of the +Park, on stormy nights, he stole into the Park and built a lodge in the +locality where the buffalo wintered. In it he stored his supplies, which +he had conveyed on a toboggan. He traveled on _skis_, the Norwegian +snowshoes, ten feet long, which are generally used in the Northwestern +country. This enabled him to traverse the roughest mountain range with +ease and great rapidity, even in the deepest snow. Once established, the +killing was an easy matter. He had only to find the buffalo where the +snow was deep. The ponderous, unwieldy animals had small chance of +escape from his pursuit. His quarry was soon located, and he needed no +assistance to make a surround; for, while the frightened, confused +beasts were plunging in the snow, in a vain attempt to extricate +themselves, the butcher glided swiftly around them on his snowshoes, +approaching as close as he chose. With his rapid-firing gun he +slaughtered them as easily as if they had been cattle in a corral. How +many he killed will never be known. The remains of many of his victims +will never be found. + +[Illustration: IN YELLOWSTONE PARK SNOWS.] + +But while the ruffian was busiest in his bloody work, a man was speeding +over the snow toward him from the south. He too was on _skis_. He too +was a mountain man, who thought as little of the obstacles before him as +Howell did. But the object of his trip was not the buffalo, but Howell. +It was human game he was pursuing. Howell had not covered up his tracks +as well as he thought. The trailer had struck a trail which he never +left till it brought him to the object of his pursuit. This man was +Burgess, the Yellowstone Park scout. He had learned of Howell's presence +in the Park, and was sent out, with the intention of apprehending him, +by the energetic superintendent, Captain Anderson. He proceeded on his +course as swiftly as a howling wind would permit, when he was surprised +by seeing suspended from some trees six buffalo scalps. He now felt that +he was in close vicinity to the man he was hunting, and that his +business had become a serious one. He knew the man who had done that +deed was prepared to resist and commit a greater crime. But this did not +deter him and he again took the trail. He had proceeded only a short +distance when he heard six shots. Hastening up a hill, he saw Howell +engaged in butchering five buffalo, the victims of the six shots. +Howell's gun was resting on the body of one of the slain animals, a few +feet away from where he was engaged in removing a scalp from another of +the bison. So occupied was he in his work that he did not perceive the +scout, who had emerged in plain view, and who silently glided to the +weapon, and, securing it, had Howell at his mercy. The demand to throw +up his hands was the first intimation Howell had that he was not alone +in the buffalo country. It must have been difficult for the scout at +that moment not to forget that ours is a Government of law, and to +refrain from making as summary an end of Howell as Howell had made of +the buffalo. + +The poacher accepted his capture with equanimity, casually remarking +that if he had seen Burgess first he never would have been captured. He +was conveyed to the post headquarters. As soon as the Secretary of the +Interior heard of his arrest, he ordered his discharge, as there was no +law by which he could be detained or otherwise punished. Howell was +proud of his achievement and of the notoriety it gave him, boasting +that he had killed altogether eighty of the bison. This statement may +only have been made for the purpose of magnifying his crime and so +enhancing his importance. It may, however, be true. Besides those +actually known to have been slaughtered by him, the remains of thirteen +other bison, it is said, have been found in the Park. It is probable +they were all killed by him. + +When the intelligence of what had happened reached the country, much +indignation was manifested. The public, which after all did have a vague +sense of pride in the Park, and a rather loose wish to see it cared for, +was shocked and surprised to discover that no law existed by which the +offense could be reached. They were aroused to the knowledge that the +Park was the only portion of our domain uncontrolled by law. The Boone +and Crockett Club took prompt advantage of this awakened feeling, and +redoubled its efforts to secure action by the National Legislature. +Congress had long been deaf to the appeals of the few individuals who, +year after year, endeavored to obtain a law; but now, at last, they +realized that some action was really needed if they desired to save +anything in the Park. Mr. Lacey, of Iowa, the gentleman whom we have +mentioned as having had a practical experience of the condition of +affairs in the Park, was naturally the first to take hold of the +opportunity which public opinion afforded. He willingly adopted the +chief jurisdictional and police features contained in the Park bill to +which we have so frequently referred as repeatedly passing the Senate. +He readily acquiesced in all the amendments which were proposed by +members of the Boone and Crockett Club. The Club pushed the matter +vigorously. The aid of many prominent members of the House of +Representatives was enlisted. Before the hostile railroad party knew of +the movement, the bill was presented to the House, unanimous consent for +its consideration obtained, and it was passed. In the Senate the bill +was among its friends, and Senator Vest was again instrumental in +securing its passage. The promoters of the railroad scheme thought it +more prudent not to meddle with the bill in the Senate, as they would +have been certain to have encountered defeat. + +The Act provides penalties and the means of enforcing them, and thus +secures adequate protection. It makes the violation of any rule or +regulation of the Secretary of the Interior a misdemeanor. It prohibits +the killing or capture of game, or the taking of fish in an unlawful +manner. It forbids transportation of game, and for the violation of the +Act or regulations it imposes a fine not to exceed $1,000, or +imprisonment not to exceed two years, or both. It also confiscates the +traps, guns and means of transport of persons engaged in killing or +capturing game. Finally a local magistrate is appointed, with +jurisdiction to try all offenders violating the law governing the Park, +and it specifies the jurisdiction over felonies committed in the Park. +By a happy coincidence the new system was inaugurated by the trial and +conviction of the first offender put on trial, and it was Howell who was +the first prisoner in the dock. He had returned to the Park after the +passage of the law, and was tried and convicted of violating the order +of the Secretary of the Interior, by which he was expelled after he had +slaughtered the buffalo. This was retributive justice indeed. The Club +had desired that the law should be extended by Congress over the +Yellowstone Park Forest Reserve, but legal difficulties were +encountered, so that this protection had to be deferred. It is to be +hoped that in the near future this important adjunct to the Park may +have the same law applied to it. + +The Park is now on a solid foundation, and all that is necessary for its +future welfare is the prevention of adverse legislation cutting down its +limits or authorizing railroads within it. In the winter of 1894-95 the +railroad scheme, now disguised under the form of a bill to regulate the +boundaries of the Park, came up again. This was the old segregation +plan. It aimed not only to cut off from the Park that valuable portion +already described, and embracing 367 square miles north of the +Yellowstone, but also to make extensive cuts in the Forest Reserve for +railroad and other purposes, amounting to 640 square miles. This +spoliation was not permitted. Congress seemed at last to be determined +to support the Park intact, and the Committee of the Fifty-fourth +Congress in the House having the Park legislation in charge manifested +this disposition by adverse reports on all the bills to authorize +railroads and on the segregation bill as well. + +The present boundaries only need marking on the ground--a mere matter of +departmental action. There is no need of legislation on the subject. The +boundaries, especially on the north, afford such natural features as +constitute the best possible barrier to prevent depredation from +without, and to insure the retention of the game within, the Park. +Notwithstanding the inadequacy of the protection in former years, the +game has increased largely, especially since the military occupation. +Competent authority has estimated the number of elk as high as 20,000, +though this is probably too large a figure. Moose are frequently +encountered. Mountain sheep and antelope are found in goodly numbers. It +is doubtful now whether there are over 200 buffalo left. Bears of the +different varieties are very plentiful and deer are also quite abundant. +The animals thoroughly appreciate their security. They have largely lost +their fear of man. Antelope and sheep can be seen in the vicinity of the +stage roads, and are not disturbed by constant travel. Wild geese, ducks +and other birds refuse to rise from the water near which men pass. + +But bears show the most indifference for human presence. Attracted by +the food obtained, they frequent the neighborhood of the hotels in the +Park. The writer of these notes, together with some companions, had a +good opportunity, in the latter part of August, 1894, to observe how +bold and careless these generally wary animals may become if not hunted. + +When we reached the Lake Hotel, the clerk asked us if we wished to see a +bear, as he could show us one after we had finished dinner. We went with +him to a spot some 200 feet back of the hotel, where refuse was +deposited. It was then a little after sunset. We waited some moments, +when the clerk, taking his watch out of his pocket said, "It is strange +he has not come down; he is now a little overdue." Before he had +replaced his watch, he exclaimed, "Here he comes now," and we saw +descending slowly from a hill close by a very large black bear. The bear +approached us, when I said to the clerk, "Had not we better get behind +the timber? He will be frightened off should he see us." He answered, +"No, he will not be frightened in the least," and continued to converse +with us in a loud voice. We were then standing in the open close by a +swill heap and the bear was coming toward us, there being no timber +intervening. We did not move, but continued talking. The bear came up to +us without hesitation, diverging slightly from his direct route to the +swill heap so as to approach nearer to where we were. He surveyed us +leisurely, with his nose in the air, got our scent, and, seeming content +that we were only harmless human beings, turned slowly away and went to +the refuse, where he proceeded to make a meal. We watched him for quite +a while, when a large wagon passing along the road nigh to where we +stood, the bear stopped feeding and turned toward the hotel in the +direction in which the wagon was traveling. Our guide exclaimed, "He has +gone to visit the pig sty," and in a little while we were satisfied this +was so by hearing a loud outcry of "b'ar, b'ar," which we afterward +found proceeded from a Chinaman, one of whose special duties it was to +keep bears out of the pig sty. + +[Illustration: ON THE SHORE OF YELLOWSTONE LAKE.] + +After the departure of the black bear we retraced our steps, but before +getting to the hotel I suggested to one of my companions, Del. Hay, that +if we returned to the refuse pile we might see another bear. We +accordingly went back on the trail to within a few yards of where we +stood before. When we stopped we heard, in the timber near by, a great +noise, as if dead pine branches were being smashed, and there emerged +into the open a large grizzly. Although he was not quite so familiar as +the black bear, he showed no hesitation, but walked straight toward us +and the object of his visit--the swill. Before reaching his +destination, however, he stopped and squatted on his haunches, calmly +surveying the scene before him. The reason why he stopped became at once +apparent. From the same hill down which the black bear had come we saw +another grizzly, larger than the first, moving toward us at a rapid +gait, in fact, on a lope, while the first grizzly regarded him with a +look not altogether friendly or cordial. The second bear did not stop an +instant until he reached the swill heap, where he proceeded to devour +everything in sight, without any regard to us or to his fellow squatted +near by. The latter apparently had had some experience on a former +occasion which he was not desirous of repeating. + +Three men coming through the timber toward us made a considerable +racket, and the two bears moved off at no rapid gait in opposite +directions; but they went only a short way. Until we left the spot we +could see them on the edge of the timber, looking toward us, and, no +doubt, waiting for more quiet before partaking of the delights before +them. It was not easy to realize the scene before us was actual. The dim +twilight, the huge forms of the bears pacing to and fro through the +whitened dead timber, made it appear the creation of a disordered fancy. +It did not seem natural to be in close proximity with animals esteemed +so ferocious, at liberty in their native wilds, with no desire to attack +them and with no disposition on their part to attack us. When the three +men joined us and were talking about the bears, one of them shouted, +"Here come two more," and before we could realize it we saw two +good-sized cinnamons at the feast. They paid no attention whatever to +us, but were entirely absorbed in finishing up what the other bears had +left. By this time it was fast becoming dark and we returned to the +hotel. I should have said that we measured the distance from the nearest +point from the black bear to where we stood, and found it to be exactly +twenty-one feet. The other bears were but a few yards further. + +When we returned to the house we entertained our friends with an account +of what we had seen, and had there not been many eye-witnesses we +probably would have been entirely disbelieved.[14] As we were narrating +our story a man came into the room and said, "If you want some fun, come +outside; we have a bear up a tree." We went outside of the hotel, and +not over forty feet from it found a black bear in a pine tree. It seems +that the wagon, already mentioned, had been stopped at the pine tree and +the horses had been taken out. The owner, returning to his wagon, found +the bear in it, and this was the explanation why the bear had so +suddenly taken to the tree. + + [14] Colonel John Hay, of Washington, was one of the spectators of + this curious scene. Captain Albrecht Heese, of the German Embassy, + tells us that in July, 1895, while stopping at the Lake Hotel, he saw + a very large bear eating out of a trough in the daytime while a number + of tourists were present; and that the bear was finally chased away + from the trough by a cow. At the Upper Geyser Basin a bear was + domiciled in the hotel; it took food from the hands of the hotel + keeper, following him around like a dog. + +The animal was considerably smaller than the one we had seen earlier; in +fact, it was not more than half as large, but still full grown. Quite a +number of packers and teamsters stood about, amusing themselves by +making the bear climb higher, till at last one of them asked our driver, +Jim McMasters, why he did not climb the tree and shake the bear out. It +was quite dark, and McMasters replied that he would not mind doing so if +there were enough daylight for him to see. His companions continuing to +banter him, he finally said, "I believe I'll go up anyhow," and up he +went, climbing, however--instead of the tree the bear had ascended--a +companion tree which grew alongside of the other, the trunks of the two +not being more than a foot or so apart and the branches interlaced. We +soon lost sight of McMasters and of the bear also; for, as Jim climbed +the bear would climb too, until at last they both had reached the top of +their respective perches, when we heard Jim cry out, "Boys, he's got to +come down; I can reach him." With that he proceeded to break off a small +branch of his tree, and we could hear him whack the bear with it, and +also could hear the bear remonstrating with a very unpleasant voice, at +times approaching a roar. But at last the bear seemed to have made up +his mind that it was better to come down than stay up and be whacked +with a pine branch, so down he came, but not with any great rapidity, +stopping at every resting place, until Jim came down too and gave him a +little persuading. + +We could now see the action, but its dangerous features were lost sight +of in its amusing ones. Jim had climbed into the tree down which the +bear was descending, and when he was not persuading the bear he was +pleading with us somewhat as follows: "Now, boys, don't throw up here, +and don't none of you hit him until he gets down. If he should make up +his mind to come up again he'd clean me out, sure." After each speech of +this sort he would move down to where the bear was and apply his branch, +whereupon both the man and the animal would descend a few pegs lower. +At last the bear was almost near the ground. We all formed a circle +around the tree, prepared to give both man and beast a reception when +they should alight. The beast came first, and every fellow who had +anything in the way of wood in his hand gave the bear a blow or two as a +warning not to return to the wagon again. Bruin made off into the timber +with great precipitancy. Jim, when he got down, did not seem to think +that he had done anything more than if the bear had been a "possum," +which he had shaken out of the tree. + + + + +Head-Measurements of the Trophies at the Madison Square Garden +Sportsmen's Exhibition + + +During the week beginning May 14, 1895, there was held in Madison Square +Garden, New York, a Sportsmen's Exhibition. There was a fair exhibit of +heads, horns and skins, for which the credit largely belongs to +Frederick S. Webster, the taxidermist. + +At the request of the managers of the Exhibition, three of the members +of the Boone and Crockett Club--Messrs. Theodore Roosevelt, George Bird +Grinnell and Archibald Rogers--were appointed a Committee on +Measurements. There were heads and skins of every kind of North American +big game. Many of them were exhibited by amateur sportsmen, including +various members of the Boone and Crockett Club, while many others were +exhibited by furriers and taxidermists. + +Some of the measurements are worth recording. For convenience we +tabulate, in the case of each animal, the measurements of the specimens +exhibited by amateur sportsmen who themselves shot the animals. For +purposes of comparison we add the measurements of a few big heads +exhibited by taxidermists or furriers; also for purposes of comparison +we quote the figures given in two works published with special +reference to the question of horn measurements. One is the "Catalogue +and Notes of the American Hunting Trophies Exhibition" at London in +1887. The moving spirit in this exhibition was Mr. E. M. Buxton, who was +assisted by all the most noted English sportsmen who had shot in +America. The result was a noteworthy collection of trophies, almost all +of which belonged to animals shot by the exhibitors themselves. Very few +Americans took part in the exhibition, though several did so, one of the +two finest moose heads being exhibited by an American sportsman. + +The other big game book quoted is Rowland Ward's "Measurements," +published in London in 1892. This is a very valuable compilation of +authentic records of horn measurements gathered from many different +sources. In many cases it quotes from Mr. Buxton's catalogue. The +largest elk head, for instance, given by Ward is the one mentioned in +the Buxton catalogue. But in most instances the top measurements given +by Ward stand above the top measurements given in the catalogue, because +the latter, as already said, contains only a record of the trophies of +amateur sportsmen, whereas many of Ward's best measurements are from +museum specimens, or from picked heads obtained from furriers or +taxidermists, who chose the best out of those presented by many hundreds +of professional hunters. + +At the Madison Square exhibition there were numerous bear skins, polar, +grizzly and black, submitted by men who had shot them. There were a few +wolf and cougar skins and one peccary head; but there was no +satisfactory way of making measurements of any of these. The peccary's +head, which was submitted by Mr. Roosevelt, of course, had the tusks in +the skull, so that it was not possible to measure them; for the same +reason it was not possible to measure the skulls which were in the heads +of the bear, wolf and cougar skins exhibited by Mr. Roosevelt. + +There were few Oregon blacktail deer heads exhibited, and these were not +large. The one exhibited by Mr. Roosevelt, for instance, had horns 21 +inches in length, 4 inches in girth and 17 inches in spread. + +In measuring most horns it is comparatively easy to get some relative +idea of the size of the heads by giving simply the girth and length. The +spread is often given also; but this is not a good measurement, as a +rule, because, in mounting the head, it is very easy to increase the +spread; and, moreover, even where the spread is natural, it may be +excessive and out of proportion to the length of the horns, in which +case it amounts to a deformity. The length is in every case measured +from the butt to the tip along the outside curve of the horn. The girth +is given at the butt in the case of buffalo, sheep, goat and antelope; +but in the case of deer it is given at the narrowest part of the horn, +above the first tine; in elk this narrowest part comes between the bay +and tray points; in blacktail and whitetail deer it comes above the +"dog-killer" points, and below the main fork in the horn. Even in the +case of elk, deer, sheep and buffalo the measurements of length and +girth do not always indicate how fine a head is, although they generally +give at least an approximate idea. The symmetry of the head cannot be +indicated by these measurements. In elk and deer heads, extra points, +though sometimes mere deformities, yet when large and symmetrical add +greatly to the appearance and value of the head, making it heavier and +grander in every way, and being a proof of great strength and vitality +of the animal and of the horn itself. In consequence, although the +measurements of length and girth generally afford a good test of the +relative worth of buffalo, elk, sheep and deer heads, it is not by any +means an infallible test. + +With moose and caribou heads the test of mere length and girth is of far +less value; for many of them have such extraordinary antlers that the +measurements of length and girth mean but little, and give hardly any +idea of the weight and beauty of the antlers. With moose a better idea +of these qualities can be obtained by measuring the extreme breadth of +the palmation, and the extreme length from the tip of the brow point +backward in each horn. Caribou horns are often of such fantastic shape +that the actual measurements, taken in any ordinary way, give but a very +imperfect idea of the value of the trophies. Very long horns are sure to +be fine specimens, and yet they may not be nearly as fine as those which +are much shorter, but more branched, and with the branches longer, +broader and heavier, and at the same time more beautiful. Thus, at the +Madison Square Garden, C. G. Gunther's Sons, the furriers, exhibited one +caribou with antlers 50 inches long, of the barren ground type, with 43 +points. These horns were very slender, and would not have weighed more +than a third as much as an enormous pair belonging to a woodland +caribou, which were some 10 inches shorter in extreme length, and with +rather fewer points, but were more massive in every way, the beam being +far larger, and all of the tines being palmated to a really +extraordinary extent. + + + + +_TABULATED SERIES_ + +With name of owner, and locality and date of capture. + + +BISON BULL. + + Girth. Length. + 1. P. Liebinger, Western Montana, '93 12-1/2 19 + 2. Theodore Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Sept., '83 12-3/4 14 + 3. Theodore Roosevelt, S. W. Montana, Sept., '89 12-1/2 17-1/2 + + No. 2 was an old stub-horn bull, the animal being bigger in body + than No. 3, which, like No. 1, was a bull in the prime of life. + +F. Sauter, the taxidermist, exhibited a head killed in Montana in 1894, +which measured 14 inches in girth and 18 inches in length. + +In Ward's book the horns of the biggest bison given measure 15 inches in +girth and 20-7/8 inches in length. + + +BIG-HORN SHEEP. + + Girth. Length. Spread. + 4. Geo. H. Gould, Lower Cal., Dec., '94 16-1/4 42-1/2 25-3/4 + 5. G. O. Shields, Ashnola River, B. C. 16-1/4 37-3/4 22-1/2 + 6. Arch. Rogers, N. W. Wyoming 16 34 17 + 7. Arch. Rogers, N. W. Wyoming 15-1/2 33-1/2 23 + 8. T. Roosevelt, Little Mo. River, N. D. 16 29-1/2 18-1/2 + + No. 4 had the tip of one horn broken; it is on the whole the finest + head of which we have any record. + + No. 5 was a very heavy head, the horns huge and with blunted tips. + +A head was exhibited by C. G. Gunther's Sons which measured 17-3/4 +inches in girth, although it was but 33-1/2 inches in length. + +In Buxton's catalogue the three biggest rams exhibited by English +sportsmen had horns which measured respectively, in girth and length, +15-3/4 and 39 inches, 16-3/8 and 38-1/4 inches, and 16-1/2 and 31 +inches. + +In Ward's catalogue the biggest specimen given had horns which were +17-1/4 inches in girth and 41 inches in length. + + +WHITE GOAT. + + Girth. Length. + 9. Walter James, Swift Current River, Mont., '92 5-3/4 10-1/2 + 10. T. Roosevelt, Big Hole Basin, Mont., Aug., '89 5-1/16 9-1/16 + 11. Theodore Roosevelt, Heron, Mont., Sept., '86 5 9-3/4 + + No. 11 was a female; as the horns of the female white goat always + are, these horns were a little longer and slenderer than those of + No. 10, which was a big-bodied buck. + +In Buxton's catalogue the biggest horns given were 5 inches in girth and +8-1/4 inches in length. The two biggest specimens given in Ward's were 5 +inches in girth by 10-1/8 inches, and 5-1/2 by 9-1/2 inches. + + +MUSK OX. + +There was no musk ox head exhibited by an amateur sportsman. One, which +was exhibited by W. W. Hart & Co., had horns each of which was 29-3/4 +inches by 20-1/2 inches; the height of the boss was 13 inches. One of +the members of the Boone and Crockett Club, Mr. Caspar W. Whitney, has +this year, 1895, killed a number of musk ox; but he did not return from +his winter trip to the Barren Grounds until June. + + +PRONGBUCK. + + Girth. Length. + 12. Theodore Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Sept., '84 6-1/2 16 + 13. A. Rogers 6 12-1/2 + 14. A. Rogers 6-1/4 10-7/8 + + No. 13 measured from tip to tip 6-1/8 inches. The greatest width + inside the horns was 8-5/8 inches; the corresponding figures for + No. 14 were 7-3/4 and 10-1/4 inches. + +In Buxton's catalogue the largest measurements given were for a specimen +which girthed 5-1/8 inches, and was in length 15-3/4 inches. + +In Ward's catalogue the two biggest specimens given measured +respectively 15-3/4 inches in length by 6-1/4 inches in girth, and +12-7/8 inches in length by 6-1/2 inches in girth. + + +WAPITI OR ROUND-HORN ELK. + + Girth. Length. Spread. Points. + 15. A. Rogers, Northwestern Wyoming 8 64-1/4 48 7+7 + 16. G. O. Shields, Clark's Fork, Wyo. 8-1/4 51-3/8 50 6+7 + 17. T. Roosevelt, Two Ocean Pass, '91 6-7/8 56-1/2 46-3/8 6+6 + 18. T. Roosevelt, Two Ocean Pass, '91 7-3/4 50-3/4 47 6+6 + 19. P. Liebinger, Indian Creek, Mont. 6-1/8 50-1/2 54 8+8 + + No. 15, as far as we know, is the record head for amateur sportsmen + in point of length. + + No. 16 has very heavy massive antlers; though these are not so long + as the antlers of No. 17, yet No. 16 is really the finer head. + +In Buxton's catalogue the three finest heads measure respectively 8 +inches in girth by 62-1/2 inches in length by 48-1/2 inches spread, with +7+9 points; and 7-7/8 inches in girth by 60-3/4 inches in length by 52 +inches spread, with 6+6 points; and 8-1/2 inches in girth by 55 inches +in length by 41-1/4 spread, with 6+6 points. + +These are also the biggest heads given in Ward's catalogue. + + +MULE OR BLACKTAIL DEER. + + Girth. Length. Spread. + 20. T. Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Oct. '83 5 26-7/8 28-1/2 + 21. P. Liebinger, Madison R., Mont., '89 4-3/4 25-1/2 25-1/2 + + No. 20 is an extremely massive and symmetrical head with 28 points. + + No. 21 has 35 points. + +A still heavier head than either of the above, with 34 points, was +exhibited by the furriers, C. G. Gunther's Sons; it was in girth 5-1/4 +inches, length 26 inches and spread 28-1/4 inches. + +In Buxton's catalogue the length of the biggest mule deer horn exhibited +was 28-1/2 inches. + +In Ward's catalogue the biggest heads measured respectively: girth 4-1/2 +inches by 28-5/8 inches length, and girth 5-1/4 inches by 27 inches +length; they had 10 and 11 points respectively. + + +WHITETAIL OR VIRGINIA DEER. + + Girth. Length. Spread. + 22. G. B. Grinnell, Dismal River, Neb., '77 4-5/8 24 19-1/2 + 23. T. Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., '94 4 22-1/2 15-3/4 + + No. 22 is a very fine head with 18 points; very symmetrical. No. 23 + has 12 points. + +In Ward's measurements the biggest whitetail horns are in girth 5-3/8 +inches, and in length 27-5/8 inches. + + +MOOSE. + + Girth. Length. Points. + 24. Col. Haselton, Chesuncook, Me., '87 8-1/2 41 27 + 25. A. Rogers 7 31-3/4 14 + 26. T. Roosevelt, Bitter Root Mt., + Mont., '89 5-1/2 30 22 + + No. 24, a pair of horns only, is, with the possible exception of a + head of Mr. Bierstadt's, the finest we have ever seen in the + possession of an amateur sportsman. The measurements of the palm of + one antler were 41-1/2 by 21-3/4 inches. + + No. 26 has a spread of 40-1/2 inches, and the palm measured 29 by + 13 inches. + +In Buxton's catalogue the biggest moose given had horns which in girth +were 8-1/2 inches and in length 35-1/2 inches; the palm was 41 by 24 +inches; the spread was 65 inches. These measurements indicate a head +about as fine as Col. Haselton's, taking everything into consideration. + +The largest head given by Ward was 6-1/2 inches in girth by 39-7/8 +inches in length and 51-3/8 inches spread. It had 25 points, and the +breadth of the palm was 15-3/4 inches. + +For the reason given above, it is difficult in the case of moose, and +far more difficult in the case of caribou, to judge the respective +merits of heads by the mere record of measurements. + + +CARIBOU. + + Girth. Length. Points. + 27. A. Rogers 4-3/4 41-1/4 16 + 28. T. Roosevelt, Kootenai, B. C., Sept., + '88 5-1/2 32 14 + +Neither of these is a big head. C. G. Gunther's Sons exhibited one +caribou with 43 points. Its horns were 5-7/8 inches in girth by 50 +inches in length. They also exhibited a much heavier head, which was but +37 inches long, but was 6-1/2 inches in girth, with all of the tines +highly palmated; one of the brow points had a palm 17-1/2 inches high. + +In Buxton's catalogue the biggest caribou antler given girthed 5-1/2 +inches and was in length 37-1/2 inches. The biggest measurements given +by Ward are 5-5/8 inches in girth by 60 inches in length for a specimen +with 37 points. + + + + +National Park Protective Act + + + An Act to protect the birds and animals in Yellowstone National + Park, and to punish crimes in said Park, and for other purposes. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United +States of America in Congress assembled_, That the Yellowstone National +Park, as its boundaries now are defined, or as they may be hereafter +defined or extended, shall be under the sole and exclusive jurisdiction +of the United States; and that all the laws applicable to places under +the sole and exclusive jurisdiction of the United States shall have +force and effect in said Park: _Provided, however_, That nothing in this +Act shall be construed to forbid the service in the Park of any civil or +criminal process of any court having jurisdiction in the States of +Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. All fugitives from justice taking refuge in +said Park shall be subject to the same laws as refugees from justice +found in the State of Wyoming. + +SEC. 2. That said Park, for all the purposes of this Act, shall +constitute a part of the United States judicial district of Wyoming, and +the district and circuit courts of the United States in and for said +district shall have jurisdiction of all offenses committed within said +Park. + +SEC. 3. That if any offense shall be committed in said Yellowstone +National Park, which offense is not prohibited or the punishment is not +specially provided for by any law of the United States or by any +regulation of the Secretary of the Interior, the offender shall be +subject to the same punishment as the laws of the State of Wyoming in +force at the time of the commission of the offense may provide for a +like offense in the said State; and no subsequent repeal of any such law +of the State of Wyoming shall affect any prosecution for said offense +committed within said Park. + +SEC. 4. That all hunting, or the killing, wounding, or capturing at any +time of any bird or wild animal, except dangerous animals, when it is +necessary to prevent them from destroying human life or inflicting an +injury, is prohibited within the limits of said Park; nor shall any fish +be taken out of the waters of the Park by means of seines, nets, traps, +or by the use of drugs or any explosive substances or compounds, or in +any other way than by hook and line, and then only at such seasons and +in such times and manner as may be directed by the Secretary of the +Interior. That the Secretary of the Interior shall make and publish such +rules and regulations as he may deem necessary and proper for the +management and care of the Park, and for the protection of the property +therein, especially for the preservation from injury or spoliation of +all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or wonderful objects +within said Park; and for the protection of the animals and birds in the +Park from capture or destruction, or to prevent their being frightened +or driven from the Park; and he shall make rules and regulations +governing the taking of fish from the streams or lakes in the Park. +Possession within the said Park of the dead bodies, or any part thereof, +of any wild bird or animal shall be _prima facie_ evidence that the +person or persons having the same are guilty of violating this Act. Any +person or persons, or stage or express company or railway company, +receiving for transportation any of the said animals, birds or fish so +killed, taken or caught shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and +shall be fined for every such offense not exceeding three hundred +dollars. Any person found guilty of violating any of the provisions of +this Act, or any rule or regulation that may be promulgated by the +Secretary of the Interior with reference to the management and care of +the Park, or for the protection of the property therein, for the +preservation from injury or spoliation of timber, mineral deposits, +natural curiosities or wonderful objects within said Park, or for the +protection of the animals, birds and fish in the said Park, shall be +deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be subjected to a fine of not +more than one thousand dollars, or imprisonment not exceeding two years, +or both, and be adjudged to pay all costs of the proceedings. + +That all guns, traps, teams, horses, or means of transportation of every +nature or description used by any person or persons within said Park +limits, when engaged in killing, trapping, ensnaring or capturing such +wild beasts, birds, or wild animals, shall be forfeited to the United +States, and may be seized by the officers in said Park and held pending +the prosecution of any person or persons arrested under charge of +violating the provisions of this Act, and upon conviction under this Act +of such person or persons using said guns, traps, teams, horses, or +other means of transportation, such forfeiture shall be adjudicated as a +penalty in addition to the other punishment provided in this Act. Such +forfeited property shall be disposed of and accounted for by and under +the authority of the Secretary of the Interior. + +SEC. 5. That the United States circuit court in said district shall +appoint a commissioner, who shall reside in the Park, who shall have +jurisdiction to hear and act upon all complaints made, of any and all +violations of the law, or of the rules and regulations made by the +Secretary of the Interior for the government of the Park, and for the +protection of the animals, birds and fish, and objects of interest +therein, and for other purposes authorized by this Act. Such +commissioner shall have power, upon sworn information, to issue process +in the name of the United States for the arrest of any person charged +with the commission of any misdemeanor, or charged with the violation of +the rules and regulations, or with the violation of any provision of +this Act prescribed for the government of said Park, and for the +protection of the animals, birds and fish in the said Park, and to try +the person so charged; and, if found guilty, to impose the punishment +and adjudge the forfeiture prescribed. In all cases of conviction an +appeal shall lie from the judgment of said commissioner to the United +States district court for the district of Wyoming, said appeal to be +governed by the laws of the State of Wyoming providing for appeals in +cases of misdemeanor from justices of the peace to the district court of +said State; but the United States circuit court in said district may +prescribe rules of procedure and practice for said commissioner in the +trial of cases and for appeal to said United States district court. Said +commissioner shall also have power to issue process as hereinbefore +provided for the arrest of any person charged with the commission of any +felony within the Park, and to summarily hear the evidence introduced, +and, if he shall determine that probable cause is shown for holding the +person so charged for trial, shall cause such person to be safely +conveyed to a secure place for confinement, within the jurisdiction of +the United States district court in said State of Wyoming, and shall +certify a transcript of the record of his proceedings and the testimony +in the case to the said court, which court shall have jurisdiction of +the case: _Provided_, That the said commissioner shall grant bail in all +cases bailable under the laws of the United States or of said State. All +process issued by the commissioner shall be directed to the marshal of +the United States for the district of Wyoming; but nothing herein +contained shall be construed as preventing the arrest by any officer of +the Government or employee of the United States in the Park without +process of any person taken in the act of violating the law or any +regulation of the Secretary of the Interior: _Provided_, That the said +commissioner shall only exercise such authority and powers as are +conferred by this Act. + +SEC. 6. That the marshal of the United States for the district of +Wyoming may appoint one or more deputy marshals for said Park, who shall +reside in said Park, and the said United States district and circuit +courts shall hold one session of said courts annually at the town of +Sheridan, in the State of Wyoming, and may also hold other sessions at +any other place in said State of Wyoming or in said National Park at +such dates as the said courts may order. + +SEC. 7. That the commissioner provided for in this Act shall, in +addition to the fees allowed by law to commissioners of the circuit +courts of the United States, be paid an annual salary of one thousand +dollars, payable quarterly, and the marshal of the United States and his +deputies, and the attorney of the United States and his assistants in +said district, shall be paid the same compensation and fees as are now +provided by law for like services in said district. + +SEC. 8. That all costs and expenses arising in cases under this Act, and +properly chargeable to the United States, shall be certified, approved +and paid as like costs and expenses in the courts of the United States +are certified, approved and paid under the laws of the United States. + +SEC. 9. That the Secretary of the Interior shall cause to be erected in +the Park a suitable building to be used as a jail, and also having in +said building an office for the use of the commissioner; the cost of +such building not to exceed five thousand dollars, to be paid out of any +moneys in the Treasury not otherwise appropriated upon the certificate +of the Secretary as a voucher therefor. + +SEC. 10. That this Act shall not be construed to repeal existing laws +conferring upon the Secretary of the Interior and the Secretary of War +certain powers with reference to the protection, improvement and control +of the said Yellowstone National Park. + +Approved May 7, 1894. + + + + +Constitution of the Boone and Crockett Club + +FOUNDED DECEMBER, 1887. + + +Article I. + +This Club shall be known as the Boone and Crockett Club. + + +Article II. + +The objects of the Club shall be-- + +1. To promote manly sport with the rifle. + +2. To promote travel and exploration in the wild and unknown, or but +partially known, portions of the country. + +3. To work for the preservation of the large game of this country, and, +so far as possible, to further legislation for that purpose, and to +assist in enforcing the existing laws. + +4. To promote inquiry into, and to record observations on the habits and +natural history of, the various wild animals. + +5. To bring about among the members the interchange of opinions and +ideas on hunting, travel and exploration; on the various kinds of +hunting-rifles; on the haunts of game animals, etc. + + +Article III. + +No one shall be eligible for membership who shall not have killed with +the rifle in fair chase, by still-hunting or otherwise, at least one +individual of one of the various kinds of American large game. + + +Article IV. + +Under the head of American large game are included the following +animals: Bear, buffalo (bison), mountain sheep, caribou, cougar, +musk-ox, white goat, elk (wapiti), wolf (not coyote), pronghorn +antelope, moose and deer. + + +Article V. + +The term "fair chase" shall not be held to include killing bear, wolf or +cougar in traps, nor "fire-hunting," nor "crusting" moose, elk or deer +in deep snow, nor killing game from a boat while it is swimming in the +water. + + +Article VI. + +This Club shall consist of not more than one hundred regular members, +and of such associate and honorary members as may be elected. + + +Article VII. + +The Committee on Admissions shall consist of the President and Secretary +and the Chairman of the Executive Committee. In voting for regular +members, six blackballs shall exclude. In voting for associate and +honorary members, ten blackballs shall exclude. Candidates for regular +membership who are at the same time associate members shall be voted +upon before any other. + + +Article VIII. + +The Club shall hold one fixed meeting a year, to be held the second +Wednesday in January, and to be called the annual meeting. + + +Article IX. + +This Constitution shall not be changed, save by a four-fifths vote of +the members present. + + + + +Officers of the Boone and Crockett Club 1895 + + +_President._ + + Theodore Roosevelt, New York. + + +_Secretary and Treasurer._ + + George Bird Grinnell, New York. + + +_Executive Committee._ + + W. A. Wadsworth, Geneseo, N. Y. + Archibald Rogers, Hyde Park, N. Y. + Winthrop Chanler, New York. + Owen Wister, Philadelphia, Pa. + Charles Deering, Chicago, Ill. + + +_Editorial Committee._ + + Theodore Roosevelt, New York. + George Bird Grinnell, New York. + + + + +List of Members of the Boone and Crockett Club + + +* Deceased. + + Lieut. Henry T. Allen, Washington, D. C. + Capt. Geo. S. Anderson, Yellowstone Park, Wyo. + F. H. Barber, Southampton, L. I. + D. M. Barringer, Philadelphia, Pa. + Hon. T. Beal, Washington, D. C. + Albert Bierstadt, New York. + W. J. Boardman, Cleveland, Ohio. + Wm. B. Bogert, Chicago, Ill. + Hon. Benj. H. Bristow, New York. + Wm. B. Bristow, New York. + A. E. Brown, Philadelphia, Pa. + Major Campbell Brown, Spring Hill, Tenn. + Col. John Mason Brown,* Louisville, Ky. + W. A. Buchanan, Chicago, Ill. + H. D. Burnham, Chicago, Ill. + Edw. North Buxton, London, Eng. + H. A. Carey,* Newport, R. I. + Royal Carroll, New York. + Judge John Dean Caton,* Ottawa, Ill. + J. A. Chanler, New York. + W. A. Chanler, New York. + Winthrop Chanler, New York. + Frank C. Crocker, Portland, Me. + A. P. Gordon-Cumming, Washington. D. C. + Chas. P. Curtiss, Boston, Mass. + Paul J. Dashiell, Annapolis, Md. + E. W. Davis, Providence, R. I. + Chas. Deering, Chicago, Ill. + H. C. de Rham, New York. + W. B. Devereux, Glenwood Springs, Colo. + Col. Richard Irving Dodge, Washington, D. C. + Dr. Wm. K. Draper, New York. + J. Coleman Drayton, New York. + Capt. Frank Edwards, Washington, D. C. + Dr. D. G. Elliott, Chicago, Ill. + Maxwell Evarts, New York. + Robert Munro Ferguson, New York. + J. G. Follansbee, San Francisco, Cal. + Frank Furness, Philadelphia, Pa. + W. R. Furness, Jr., Jekyll Island, Brunswick, Ga. + Jas. T. Gardiner, Albany, N. Y. + John Sterett Gittings, Baltimore, Md. + George H. Gould, Santa Barbara, Cal. + De Forest Grant, New York. + Madison Grant, New York. + Gen. A. W. Greely, Washington, D. C. + Geo. Bird Grinnell, New York. + Wm. Milne Grinnell, New York. + Arnold Hague, Washington, D. C. + Hon. Wade Hampton, Columbia, S. C. + Howard Melville Hanna, Cleveland, Ohio. + Major Moses Harris, Washington, D. C. + Maj. Gen. W. H. Jackson, Nashville, Tenn. + Dr. Walter B. James, New York. + Col. Jas. H. Jones, New York. + Clarence King, New York. + C. Grant La Farge, New York. + Alex. Lambert, New York. + Dundas Lippincott,* Philadelphia, Pa. + Hon. Henry Cabot Lodge, Washington, D. C. + Francis C. Lowndes, New York. + Frank Lyman, Brooklyn, N. Y. + Geo. H. Lyman, Boston, Mass. + Chas. B. Macdonald, Chicago, Ill. + Prof. John Bache MacMasters, Philadelphia, Pa. + Henry May, Washington, D. C. + Col. H. C. McDowell, Lexington, Ky. + Dr. C. Hart Merriam, Washington, D. C. + Dr. J. C. Merrill, Washington, D. C. + Dr. A. Rutherfurd Morris, New York. + J. Chester Morris, Jr., Chestnut Hill, Pa. + H. N. Munn, New York. + Lyman Nichols, Boston, Mass. + Jas. S. Norton, Chicago, Ill. + Francis Parkman,* Boston, Mass. + Thos. Paton, New York. + Hon. Boies Penrose, Philadelphia, Pa. + C. B. Penrose, Philadelphia, Pa. + R. A. F. Penrose, Philadelphia, Pa. + W. Hallett Phillips, Washington, D. C. + Col. W. T. Pickett, Meeteetse, Wyo. + H. C. Pierce, St. Louis, Mo. + John J. Pierrepont, Brooklyn, N. Y. + Capt. John Pitcher, Washington, D. C. + A. P. Proctor, New York. + Hon. Redfield Proctor, Washington, D. C. + Prof. Ralph Pumpelly, Newport, R. I. + Percy Pyne, Jr., New York. + Hon. Thos. B. Reed, Portland, Me. + Douglas Robinson, Jr., New York. + Hon. W. Woodville Rockhill, Washington, D. C. + Archibald Rogers, Hyde Park, N. Y. + E. P. Rogers,* Hyde Park, N. Y. + Elliott Roosevelt,* Abingdon, Va. + John Ellis Roosevelt, New York. + J. West Roosevelt, New York. + Hon. Theo. Roosevelt, New York. + Elihu Root, New York. + Bronson Rumsey, Buffalo, N. Y. + Lawrence Rumsey, Buffalo, N. Y. + Dean Sage, Albany, N. Y. + Alden Sampson, Boston, Mass. + Hon. Carl Schurz, New York. + Philip Schuyler, Irvington, N. Y. + M. G. Seckendorf, Washington, D. C. + Dr. J. L. Seward, Orange, N. J. + Gen. Phil. Sheridan,* Washington, D. C. + Gen. W. T. Sherman,* New York. + Chas. F. Sprague, Boston, Mass. + Henry L. Stimson, New York. + Hon. Bellamy Storer, Washington, D. C. + Rutherfurd Stuyvesant, New York. + Frank Thompson, Philadelphia, Pa. + B. C. Tilghman, Philadelphia, Pa. + T. S. Van Dyke, San Diego, Cal. + Hon. G. G. Vest, Washington, D. C. + W. A. Wadsworth, Geneseo, N. Y. + Samuel D. Warren, Boston, Mass. + Jas. Sibley Watson, Rochester, N. Y. + Maj. Gen. W. D. Whipple, Norristown, Pa. + Chas. E. Whitehead, New York. + Caspar W. Whitney, New York. + E. P. Wilbur, Jr., South Bethlehem, Pa. + Col. Roger D. Williams, Lexington, Ky. + R. D. Winthrop, New York. + Owen Wister, Philadelphia, Pa. + J. Walter Wood, Jr., New York. + + + + +Transcriber's Note + + +Illustrations have been moved near the relevant section of the text. + +I have used "=" in the text to denote use of an ornamental font. + +[=a] (used in the word, "G[=a]t") represents an "a" with an macron +above it. + +Inconsistencies have been retained in hyphenation and grammar, except +where indicated in the list below. I have left "Colomiaghi" and +"Colombiagi" as-is although they may refer to the same location. + +Here is a list of the minor typographical corrections made: + + - "Zloeem" changed to "Zlooem" on Page 8 + - Period added before "577" on Page 24 + - "First" changed to "first" on Page 71 + - "necesssary" changed to "necessary" on Page 188 + - Removed period after "hillside" on Page 273 + - "ZLOEEM" changed to "ZLOOEM" in the caption for the illustration + following Page 318 + - Period changed to a comma after "However" on Page 336 + - "cotemporaneously" changed to "contemporaneously" on Page 370 + - Quotation mark added after "tributaries." on Page 384 + - Comma added after "Penrose" on Page 446 + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hunting in Many Lands, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HUNTING IN MANY LANDS *** + +***** This file should be named 37122.txt or 37122.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/1/2/37122/ + +Produced by David Edwards, Linda Hamilton and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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